^ x^ -% oN "^C A^^ ««-, . '^t'. V » •*bo^ ■v^' ^ =. ^^ '-^ oN' aV '^r- ^. " » \ \ ^<^% .0 o. 0- "- ,>N ^Oc^ >.^^ ^A V ^^^ >• -p. - ,A iTHEi BUCKEYE COOK BOOK. •V-. A Carefi'l Co:\rpiLATiox of Tried and Apphoved Recipes for ALL Departments of The Household. J^l („Jl'L 311888 T SUBSCRIPTION EDITION. MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. BUCKEYE PUBLISHING CO. BUCKEYE PUBLISHING CO., ^^^^" PEERY PUBLISHING CO., DAYTON, OHIO. DENVKK, COL. A ('oprrightefl by ESTELLE W. WILCOX, ISST. Printed and Bound By II. C, TRAVIS, Minneapolis Minnesota. TO THOSE PLUCKY HOUSEWIVES WHO MASTER THEIR WORK INSTEAD OK ALLOWINt; IT TO .MA*Ti:i; TIIKM THIB BOOK IS DEDICATED. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Brbad-makikg Breakfast and Tea Cakes, (Toast and Cake-making, (Layer Cakes, Crullees Creams and Custards Confectionery . Canning Fruits . Catsups and Sauces . Cheese .... Drinks .... Eggs, (Omelets) . Fish .... Fritters and Croquettes Fruit, (Dried Fruits) Game ... Griddle Cakes . Ices and Ice Cream Icing .... Jams and Jellies, (Fruit Jellies .\ni) D Meats, (Gravies and Cold Meat.s) Mush Mushrooms Pastry Pickles, (Sweet Pickles) . Potatoes .... Poultry .... Preserves Puddings and Sauces Salads Shell-fish Soups Vegetables, (Dried Vegetables) Bills of Fare for every' day in th Blanks for additional Recipes Cdok's Time-Table Table of Weights and Measures When food IS in Season t'oMPARATivE Value OF Fuel Housekeeping .... Dining Roo.m .... How to give a dinner Dining Room Dots Garnishes and Sauces Kitchen Kitchen Wrinkles Kitchen Utensils Management of Help Hints about Marketing Cutting and Curing Meats Carving .... Butter and c;heese Chemistry of Food Cellar AND Ice House Laundry so.mething ABOUT Babies . IFl NTS FOR THE Well . Hints FOR THE Sic K-Roo.M . Food for the Sick JlEDICAL Accidents and Sudden Sickness The Arts of the Toilet The Fiower Garden Dressmaking at Home Miscellaneous .... Alphabetical in,dex Yeast) AND Doughnuts and Ginger-B >SKKT JeLLIE PAGES. 7-3;i 34-60 106-128 r29-H2 143-159 160-181 182-196 197-224 225-24.5 246-288 289-305 307-3-18 349-375 376-383 384-412 413-4-29 l;»-452 453-.588 589-5'.i4 59.5-602 603-640 64l-€70 671-693 694-720 724-7;i4 735-771 772-796 797-817 818-8.51 852-880 881-908 909-912 !ii:}-914 :il.'>-91(l 917-919 920-921 !l22-9.50 951-9.5K 959-971 972-974 975-981 982-991 991-1014 1014-1016 1017-1020 1021-10»i 103.5-1053 10-54-10.58 1059-1063 1064-1072 1073-1081 1082-1 lOO 1101-1118 1119-1128 1129-1134 1134-1143 1144-1178 1179-1186 1187-1196 1197-1211 1212-13."vl 123.5-1261 1262-1276 PREFACE. Even the experienced housekeeper frequently feels the need of a trustworthy book of reference regarding household matters, to which she may confidently apply, to refresh her memory or to sup- ply knowledge which her experience has not furnished. To tht« young wife, who enters upon the task of home-making with little experience, such a book is invaluable and almost indispensable. Experiments which fsil are costly in material, as well as in courage, and no young housekeeper can afford to blunder into a knowledge of her duties, when with such simple and explicit instructions as any experienced house-wife could give, disastrous failures may be avoided. Many of the books which have resulted from attempts to give such instructions in print have been partial failures, either be- cause the authors were too literary to be practical housekeepers, or, being good housekeepers, and familiar with the sul)jects treated, found it difficult to realize the complete ignorance of the young and untrained, and in consequence failed to express clearly and con- cisely the full processes in detail. In gathering the material for The Buckeye Cook-Book, the one aim has been to pack into it the great- est possible amount of information of real value to housekeepers of that large class who by choice or necessity look carefully after the management of their households, planning to get the best possible returns for the money expended. This is not a hap-hazard collection of recipes, clipped at random from doubtful sources, but has been made up, without sparing time, labor or expense, from the choicest bits of the best experience of hundreds who have long traveled the daily round of household duties, not reluctantly like drudges, but lovingly, with heart and hand fully enlisted in the work. Those housewives, especially, whose purses are not over-plethoric will, it is believed, find its pages full of timely and helpful suggestions in their FREFACB. efforts to make the balance of the household ledger appear on the right side, without lessening the excellence of the table or robbing home of any comfort or attraction. The arrangements of subjects treated, whenever practicable, has been made in the simple order of the alphabet, and for the sake of still more ready reference a full very alphabetical index has been added Whenever a recipe is given within another, by an addition of ingred- ients, it is indexed and marked by italics ; when one recipe which ap- pears elsewhere in the book i s referred to in another recipe, the former begins with a capital letter. The instructions wliich precede the recipes of each department have been carefully made up, and are en- tirely trustworthy, and the recipes themselves are mosty new to print and well indorsed. These instructions should be carefully read before any recipe, following them, is attempted. Several suggestive articles have also been introduced, which, though not belonging strictly to cookery, bear such close relations to it that the fitness of their ap- pearance in the connection is evident. There has been no attempt at display or effect, the only pur- pose being to express ideas as clearly and concisely as possible, and to make a thoroughly simple and practical work. In the effort to avoid the mistakes of others, greater errors may have been commit- ted ; but the book is submitted just as it is to the generous judg- ment of those who consult it, with the hope that it may lessen their perplexities, and stimulate that just pride without which work is drudgery and great excellence imnossible. BREAD-MAKING. BREAD- MAKING. There is an old and true saying, that "she who has baked a good batch of bread has done a good day's work." Bread-making should stand at the head of domestic accomplishments, since the health and happiness of the family depends immeasurably upon good bread ; and there is certain to come a time in the experience of every true, thoughtful woman when she is glad and proud of her ability to make nice, sweet loaves, free from soda, alum, and other injurious ingredients, or bitterly regrets that she neglected to learn, or was so unfortunate as not to have been taught, at least the first requisites of good bread-making. Opinions as to what constitutes good bread diifer, perhaps, as much as tastes and opinions concerning any thing else, but all will agree that bread, to be good, ought to be light, sweet — that is, free from any perceptible acid or yeasty taste — flaky, granular or not liable to become a doughy mass, and as white as the grade of flour used will allow. Persons with delicate digestive powers and child- ren should not use new bread, and therefore must have such as will keep with little change of texture and none of quality or taste for several days. To obtain these qualities in bread, use the best flour, as in families where no bread is wasted the best is cheapest. Housekeepers seldom select flour by examination. They usually take some tried brand, or select on the recommendation of their fur- nisher. No rule can be given by which an inexperienced person can determine the grade of flour with accuracy, but a few hints will BREAD-MAKING. enable any one to know what not to buy. Good flour adheres to the hand, and, when pressed, shows the imprint of the lines of the skin. Its tint is cream white. Never buy that which has a blue-wliite tinge. Poor flour is not adhesive, may be blown about easily, and some- times has a dingy look, as though mixed with ashes. Flour should be bought in quantities corresponding to the num- ber in the family, that it may not become damaged by long keeping. Old flour is said by professional bakers to be best for bread-making, ])rovided it is kept perfectly pure and sweet, which is very difficult to do when surrounded, as is necessary in small households, l)y so many contaminating influences of odor, moisture, etc. For this reason it is better to buy in small quantities, depending upon the dealer to furnish that which is not newly ground. In a family of five, a barrel, or even a half-barrel sack of flour, excellent when first bought, will often become much deteriorated before being used u]>. Flour should be kept dry, cool and entirely beyond g^^^ata,^^^^ the reach of marauders, big or little, especially the pmurs^^^ latter, for the infinitesimal meal moth is far more to be dreaded than rats or mice. The three, six and ten-gallon cans (about six pounds to a gallon) with tight tin covers, made by the manu- facturers of granite iron ware, are excellent for this pur- pose, and not expensive considering their durability. Every receptacle of flour should be thoroughly and fre- quently cleansed, to guard against animal as well as vegetable parasites. A single speck of mold, coming """cov^'.""" from old or damp flour in an obscure corner of the flour- box, will leaven the whole as rapidly and strongly as ten times its weight in yeast. Bread-making seems a simple process enough, but it requires a delicate care and watchfulness, and a thorough knowledge of all the contingencies of the process, dependent on the different qualities of flour, and the varying kinds and conditions of yeast, and the change of seasons ; the process which raises bread successfully in winter making it sour in summer. There are many little things in bread- making which require accurate observation, and, while valuable rec- ipes and well-defined methods in detail are invaluable aids, noth- ing but experience will secure the name merited by so few, though earnestly coveted by every practical, sensible housekeeper — 'an BREAD-MAKING. excellent bread-maker." Three things are indispensable to success • good flour, good yeast, and watchful care. Never use flour without sifting; this is done with a plain sieve like that represented in the illustra- tion or with some one of the many patent sieves which are more rapid but not always more satisfactory, and a large tin or wooden pail with a tight-fitting cover, kept full Flour Sieve, ^f gifted flour, wlll be found a great convenience. All kinds of flour and meal, except buckwheat and Graham — and Graham, too, when coarse — need sifting, and all, like^ wheat flour, should be bought in small quantities, as they become damp and musty by long standing. THE YEAST. Hand Sieve. After the flour, the yeast or leaven is the next essential element in bread. For regular fare most, especially women, prefer "yeast bread," but men who can not forget "how mother used to cook," have a liking for "salt-rising" bread, and the latter deserves the ac- quaintance of the housekeeper and a frequent welcome on the fam- ily table. The dry hop yeast, such as Twin Bros., Stratton's, National, Eagle, Gillett's and many others, also the compressed yeast, are all good, if fresh, and always available, for they are found in every grocery. Many housekeepers use baker's yeast, and buy for a penny or two what will serve each baking of bread. For those who prefer home-made or potato yeast excellent recipes are else- where given. Potato yeast has two advantages over other kinds ; bread made from it keeps moist longer, and there is no danger that an excess of yeast will injure the flavor of the bread. Less of any kind of yeast should be used in hottest summer weather, and more in extreme cold weather. THE SPONGE. This is made from warm water or milk, yeast and flour (some add mashed potatoes, which should be mashed quickly while tender, hot and mealy, being careful to remove all lumps, or mash through a colander, then add a littls flour with a spoon, and stir, then a lit- tle water, and stir, and so on, mixing the flour and water with the 10 BKEAD-MAKINO. potatoes gradually) mixed together in the proportion of one pint wetting (water or milk) to two pint? of sifted flour. If milk is used it should be new, and must be first scalded, and then cooled to blood heat. The scalding tends to pre- vent souring. In using water bring c«iaua.,r. it to blood heat. If the "wetting" is too hot, the bread will l)e coarse. When water is used a tablespoon* of lard or butter makes the bread more tender. Bread made from milk is, of course, more tender and nutritious, but it has not the sweet taste of the wheat, and will not keep as long as that made from water. When mixed with milk it requires less flour and less kneading. In summer, care must be taken not to set sponge too early, at least not before eight or nine o'clock in the evening. Sponge mixed with bran water, Avarm in winter and cold in summer, makes sweeter bread. Boil bran in the proportion of one pint to a quart of water and strain. In very hot weather, sponge may be made with cold water. In winter, mix the batter with water or milk at blood warmth, testing it with the finger, and making it as warm as can be borne ; stir in the flour, which will cool it sufficiently for the yeast ; cover closely and place in a warm and even temperature. A good plan is to fold a clean blanket several times, and cover with it, providing the sponge is set in a very large crock or jar, so that thero is no danger of its running over. As a general rule, one small tea-cup of yeast and three pints of "wet- ting" will make sponge enough for four ordinary loaves. In all sponges add the yeast last, making sure that the sponge is not hot enough to scald it ; when placed to rise, always cover closely. In cold weather the temperature runs down very quickly in many kitchens after the fire is out, and the bread should be set earlier in the evening and in a warmer place ; a temperature of eighty to ninety degrees is right. When it rises well for the first two hours it will go on rising unless the temperature falls below the freezing point. It is an im- provement to heat the sponge thoroughly, like batter for a cake, for fifteen minutes or longer. Never set sponge in tin, but always in stoneware, because a more steady and uniform heat can be main- *Whenever, in this book, the worrls cupful, eoffee-cu'f"!, tea-cupful, table-spoonful, etc., occur, the terminiition "ful" is dropped, for the sake of brevity BREAD-MAKING. 11 tained in a stone jar than in tin. Use a six-quart jar for the sponge, which when light enough to mix will have risen almost to top of jar and be covered with fine white bubbles. If left standing too long the sponge will sink in the middle, which is an indication that it is slightly sour, and soda must be used to sweeten before using, in the proportion of a half-teaspoon to a quart of wetting. To make good bread — Always be "Up in the morning early, just at the peep of day," in summer time, to prevent the sponge becoming sour by too long standing, and in winter to be getting materials warmed and in readi- ness for use. A large, seamless, tin dish pan with handles and a tight-fitting cover, kept for this purpose alone, is better than a wooden bowl for bread. A fourteen-quart pan is a good size when three pints wetting is used. It should be thoroughly washed and scalded every time it is used. Measure and sift the flour. It is convenient to keep two quart cups, one for dry and the other for liquid measur- ing. In the winter always warm the flour (by placing it in a pan in a warm oven for a few minutes or by setting it overnight where it will be kept at the same temperature as the sponge), and also the sponge. Put the flour in a bread pan, make a large well in the cen- ter, into which pour the sponge, adding two level teaspoons of salt (this is the quantity for four loaves of bread) ; mix well, being care- ful not to get the dough too stifi"; turn out on the bread-board, rub the pan clean, and add the "rubbings" to the bread. Knead for from forty-five minutes to one hour, or until the dough ceases to stick to either the board or hands. Do not stop kneading until done. Any pause in the process injures the bread. The process of knead- ing is very important; use just as little flour in kneading as will prevent sticking, and practice will enable one to make a little flour go a great way. Some good bread-makers knead with the palms of the hands until the dough is a flat cake, then fold once, repeating this operation until the dough is perfectly smooth and elastic ; oth- ers close their hands and press hard and quickly into the dough with the fists, dipping them into the flour when the dough sticks ; or after kneading, chop with the chopping knife and then knead again ; oth- ers still knead with a potato masher, thinking it a great saving of strength. Another method, used by good bread-makers, is to raise 12 BREAD-MAKIXG. the whole mass and drop or dash it with considerable force upon the mixing-board or table for several minutes. No exact directions can be given in regard to kneading, but experience and practice will prove the best guides. There are one or two machines for kneading bread that save labor, and which may be purchased in any house- furnishing store in the larger cities. After the bread is thoroughly kneaded, form into a round mass or large loaf, sprinkle the bread- pan well with flour, and, having placed the loaf in it, sprinkle flour lightly on the top (some grease the top with salted lard or butter in- stead of sprinkling with flour), cover closely, /^^^ and set to rise in a warm temperature, 70° to t^^^^'^^^^^^Os^ 80° ; let it rise to twice its original size this time, *^-^^=^ ^^-"v^^^^ =» or until it seams or cracks on top, say from one V ^ mff; to two hours, differing in time with the season \ 4.^^^^^ of the year. Have the baking pans already ^^^^^^^^ greased with fresh, sweet lard, or American BnaiPuiUKh .. ...r. Cooking Oil (as butter burns more easily), knead the dough down in the pan, cut into equal parts, place one at a time on the board, mold each into a smooth, oblong loaf (handling as little as possible), not too large, and put one after another into the prepared baking- pan ; grease the tops of the loaves with salted lard or butter, greas- ing between them also, when several are baked in one pan, to insure eas}' and even separation, and set to rise. Or the loaves may be made by buttering the hands, and taking enough from the mass to form a loaf, molding it into shape in the hands, without using flour. This insures a nice, brown, tender crust. Loaves made in the French style, long and narrow, are about half crust, and more easily digested, the action of heat anticipating part of the digestive process. Inmold- ^^ — ;YT' — — .-..^ iiig do not leave any lumps or loose flour gg:S;v^fe; ix^ W observation and judgment are so in- I ^^^M^}^-0M/({'//^/'^ \ dispensable. In hot weather, when |^||^^^|^^||^|j|g|^||^^J the yeast is very good and the bread Broad set to Rise. very light, it must not stand over fifteen minutes before placing to bake. If it is cold weather, and the yeast is less active, or the bread BREAD-MAKING. 18 not perfectly raised, it may sometimes stand an hour in the pans without injury. When it is risen so as to seam or crack, it is ready for the oven ; if it stands after this it becomes sour, and even if it does not sour it loses its freshness and sweetness, and the bread be- comes dry sooner after baking. Bread should undergo but two fer- mentations ; the saccharine or sweet fermentation, and the vinous, when it smells something like foaming beer. The housewife who would have good, sweet bread, must never let it pass this Bread Rea.iy lor Oven. chaugc, becausc tlic tlilrd or acctous fermentation then takes place. This last can be remedied by adding soda in the proportion of one teaspoon to each quart of wetting ; or, which is the same thing, a teaspoon to two quarts of flour ; but the bread will be much less nutritious and healthful, and some of the best elements of the flour Avill be lost. Always add salt to all breads as the dough Avill rise better, hut never salt sponge. The best to use is an English salt, as it has less of the fish}^ taste than American salt and a much more delicate flavor. A small quantity of white sugar is an improvement to all bread dough and some add a little lard, but if any shortening is used the American Cooking Oil is much nicer for either bread, rolls or biscuits. Bread should always be mixed as soft as it can he handled., but in using the "new process" flour made from spring wheat, the dough requires to be much harder than is necessary when using that made from winter wheat. Good bread-makers differ widely as to the number of times bread should rise, some insisting that the rule of our good grand- mothers, who only allowed it to rise once, insures the sweetest and most nutritious bread, and that in all subsequent fermentations a decomposition takes place that is damaging to the wholesome qual- ities of the "staff of life." In making the French loaf, an easy way is to bake it in Vienna Roll pan. A new innovation in bread-making is the use of compressed yeast, tending much towards simplifying and shortening the process, and by many con- sidered a most perfect method. The recipe given hereafter is a complete guide. 14 BREAD-MAKING. Every housekeeper should provide herself with what is called by bakers a "proof-box" for placing bread, biscuit, rolls, etc., (already in the bread-pan) in during the process of rising. This is nothing more nor less than an air-tight wooden ^, ,, box that can be made by anyone at all familiar with K..ui..icur,.tr.dKrtadPBn. the use of tools, and its size should of course depend upon the size of the family, which in turn regulates the quantity of dough to be raised. Beside giving the dough this protection, the careful bak- er also folds a cloth or towel around it before putting on the close. fitting cover of the box. Kept thus excluded from the air the out- side of the loaves or rolls is as fresh and tender when put in the oven as the inside. Set the box near the range where it will receive the necessary warmth, and be sure that it is kept perfectly sweet and clean, using it for no other purposes whatever. Air and dry the box thoroughly each time before using. TO BAKE BREAD. Here is the important point, for the bread may be perfect thus far and then be spoiled in baking. No definite rules can be given that apply equally well to every stove and range ; but one general rule must be observed, which is, to B'read and Biscuit Pans, havc a stcadv, modcratc heat, such as is more minutely described in the directions for baking large cakes. The oven must be just hot enough ; if too hot, a firm crust is formed be- fore the bread has expanded enough, and it will be heavy. To test the heat, place a teaspoon of flour on an old piece of crockery (to secure an even heat), and set in middle of the oven ; if it browns in one minute the heat is right. An oven in which the bare hand and arm can not be held longer than to count twenty moderately is hot enough ; or the "paper test" is to put half a sheet of writing paper in the oven ; if it catches fire it is too hot ; open the dampers and wait ten minutes, when put in another piece of paper ; if it blackens it is still too hot. . Ten minutes later put in a third piece ; if it gets dark hrown the oven is right for all small pastry, called ^^dark h'oum pa- lmer heat.''' Light hrovin paper heat is suitable for vol-au-vents or fruit pies. Dark yellow paper heat for large pieces of pastry or meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. Light yellow paper heat for sponge cake, meringues, etc. To obtain these various degrees of heat, try paper every ten minutes till heat required for the purpose BRHAD-MAKIN«. 15 is attained. Remember that "light yellow" means paper only tinged ; "dark yellow," paper the color of ordinary pine wood ; "light brown" is only a shade darker, about the color of nice pie-crust, and dark brown a shade darker, by no means coffee color. The attention of stove-makers seems never to have been directed to the fact that there is no accurate means of testing the heat of ovens, but it is to be hoped that in the near future some simple device, or practical ap- plication of the thermometer, may be found which will render un- necessary such inaccurate and untrustworthy tests as must now be used, and thus reduce baking to a science ; and even now busy brains are at work to secure this result, prompted by a suggestion in our first edition. The oven door should be closed immediately upon putting the bread in, and be sure that no part of the range is open during the baking ; r^ gjpniffff ir Iwff Hya^ neither should the door be opened too soon nor too ^K^^WI^y often to look at the bread. About ten minutes o*ai Bread Fan. after puttifeg in the loaves it is best to look into the oven to see how the bread is doing, and once or twice again during the baking, as the loaves may require changing, opening and closing the door as quickly as possible. If the loaves begin to brown too quickly cover with a piece of thick brown paper; if they begin to brown quickly at one end and not at the other change their position, or if the loaf at the back of the oven bakes faster than those at the front change them about. To test whether the bread is done, break the loaves apart and press gently with the finger; if elastic, it is done, but if clammy not done, and must be returned to the oven ; or, if the loaves are single, test with a straw plucked from a broom. Break off the branches and thurst the larger end into the loaf; if it is sticky when withdrawn, the bread is not done, but if free from dough it is ready to be removed from the oven. The little projections on the straw, where the branches have been broken off, catch and bring out the dough, when not thoroughly baked. Another test is to knock on the loaf with the closed hand ; if it sounds hollow, the bread is done, but under-done or heavy bread will give forth a dull sound. As a quantity of dough to begin with somewhat reduces the temperature of the oven at first, one loaf will not require so hot an oven as four or five. The time required for baking is not less than three-quarters of an hour, and bread baked a full hour is more wholesome and is generally considered more palatable. If bread in 16 BREAD-MAKING. baked in the French roll pan it does not require so long a time, as the "rolls" are only about two and a half to three inches deep and same width, being rounded at the bottom. They are very nice for slicing, making pretty sized pieces. The pans come in different lengths, eiglit, twelve, sixteen and twenty inches. All loaves of bread of whatever shape, and biscuit, rolls, etc., are much nicer if when almost baked they are carefully moved out on oven shelf and brushed, using the pastry brush, with the Boll Glaze^ which is two eggs beaten with twice their bulk in water and half teaspoon sugar, and then returned to oven till done. When removed from the oven, take the loaves out of the pan, grease the entire outer crust with melted butter, and tilt them on edge, so as to secure a free circulation of air. It is bet- ter not to cover bread while warm, unless with a light cloth to keep off" flies. Thorouglily exposed to the air tlie surface cools first, in- suring a crisp crust and the retention of the moisture^n the loaf. There are those, however, who follow successfully the plan of wrap- ping bread, as soon as it is removed from the oven, in a coarse towel or bread-cloth. Never put warm bread next to wood, as the part in contact will have a bad taste. Spread a clotli over the table before placing the bread on it ; or have an oaken board for the purpose, covered with heavy white flannel, and over this spread a fresh linen bread-cloth, and lay the bread on it right side up, with a thin covering to keep off" flies, placing it at once in the fresh air to cool ; but the "bread cooler" illustrated on page 20 is better than either of the above ways. The best pan for bread, and many prefer it for cake, is made of Russia iron (which is but little more costly than tin and will last many times as long), about four by ten inches on the bottom, flaring to the top, and about four and one-half inches deep. The pan should be greased very lightly. If by accident or neglect the bread is baked too hard, rub the loaf over with butter, wet a towel and wrajjitinit, and cover Avith another dry towel. In winter, bread dough may be kept sweet several days by placing it where it will be cold without freezing, or by putting it so deep into the flour barrel as to exclude it entirely from the air. When wanted for use, make into bread, or, by adding the proper in- gredients, into cake, rusk, biscuit, apple dumplings, chicken pie, etc. BREAD-MAKING. 17 When the hread is cold, place in a stone jar or tin box, which must be thoroughly washed, scalded and dried each bak- ing day. Another good receptacle for bread is a tin wash- boiler with a close cover, kept for this purpose alone, but a still better one is the tin box with shelves as illus- trated. When small single loaf pans are used, the bread may be removed to cool, the pans washed and dried, Bread & Cake Box. aud thc loaves aftcrwards replaced each in its pan, and then set away in a box or boiler. The pan helps to keep the bread moist and palatable for several days. There are three critical points in the process of bread-making : the condition of the yeast, which must never be used if sour ; the temperature where the bread is set to rise, which must not be so hot as to scald ; and the temperature of the oven, which must be uni- form, neither too hot nor too cold. In cutting warm bread for the table, heat the knife, and whether be eaten. It is better to replenish the Bread Knife. bread-plate once or even twice during a meal than to havd" slices left over to dry up and waste. JVhen using coal, put into tlie fire-box enough to finish the bak- ing ; adding more during the process is apt to render the oven-heat irregular. When Avood is used, make a good hot fire, see that the stove has a good, free draft, and let it cool to an even, steady heat before putting the bread in the oven. The finest bread may be com- pletely spoiled in baking, and a freshly-made fire can not be easily regulated. Attention to neatness, important in all cookery, is doubly im- portant in bread-making. Be sure that the hair is neatly combed and put up (which ought to be done before the dress is put on in the morning), and that the hands, arms and finger-nails are scru- pulously clean. A neat calico apron with bib, using safety pins in fastening, and sleeves of dress well-tucked up and fastened so that they will not come down, add much to the comfort in this the most important task of the kitchen queen. A great advance has been made in milling during the past few years, the flour made by the "New Process," as it is called, being much 18 BREAD-MAKING. more nutritious than the old-fashioned white flour, which contained very little of the gluten of the wheat. The "New Process" flour made at the great Minfieapolis mills from the hard spring wheat grown in the Northwest, brings the highest price of any flour in the market and is the strongest and best. Another flour known as the Whole Wheat Four is excellent for bread-making and is reduced as is claimed by a secret process. It is made into bread by the same recipes as white flour. Many preparations of wheat and grain are sold by grocers which are prepared by spome special process, and are excellent in their way, though more expensive than the plain flour. Among these are the Health Food. Granula and various prepara- tions of the kind. Graham is often made from the poorest wheat, but some mills, like Readshaw's at Dansville, New York, make a specialty of Graham, cracked Avheat, and rye flour, and corn meal from selected grain, and furnish a choice article which is much more wholesome and just as cheap as the inferior article. Cerealine, a new preparation, is a flaky substance, the product of white Indian corn, readily soluble, easily digested, and containing a large pro- portion of nitrogenous matter. A valuable peculiarity of this pro- duct "is that it can not be prepared from unsound grain. It is certainly the highest and most scientific product of corn that has been introduced for public consideration, and is sometimes called Shredded Maize. It somewhat resembles cocoanut, only it is in small flakes, but when sprinkled on cake has quite the appear- ance of cocoanut. Griddle cakes, mufiins, bread, breakfast rolls and sweet puddings are delicious made of it, and in fact it can enter into the preparing of any recipe where flour is used, using generally half cerealine and half flour. There is also a brown-bread preparation, recently introduced, which saves much of the difficult details necessary to make this ex- cellent Boston dish; and when two boiled potatoes are rubbed through a sieve, thinned ^^^th nearly a pint of water and then the meals added, or the directions with package as above followed, the bread is simply perfect. For fuller directions in regard to flours, etc., see Marketing. GRAHAM AND CORN BREAD. It is very desirable that every family should have a constant supply of bread made of unbolted flour, or rye and Indian corn. Most persons find it palatable,and it promotes BREAD-MAKING. 19 health. For these coarse breads always add a little brown sugar or molasses, and the amount given in the recipes may be increased ac- cording to taste. They rise quicker and in a less warm atmosphere than without sweetening. A little lard or butter improves bread or cakes made of Graham or Indian meal, rendering them light and tender. Graham rises rather more quickly than fine flour (as the whole wheat flour contains a larger j^roportion of gluten, and fermen- tation is more rajjid), and should not be allowed to rise quite as light. The pans should be greased more thoroughly for Graham and corn bread tlian for that made from fine flour. The fire should be steady and sufficient to complete the baking, and the oven hot when the bread is put in. A fresh blaze will burn the crust, while a steady fire will sweeten it. Graham bread bakes more slowly than fine-flour bread, and corn bread requires more time and a hotter oven than either. Use either yellow or white corn, ground coarse, for mush, and white, ground fine, for bread, etc. In cutting the lat- ter while warm, heat the knife, and hold it perpendicularly. Rye is said to absorb more moisture from the air than any other grain : hence, all bread from this meal needs a longer application of heat, and keeps moister after being baked than that made from other grain. Rye meal is much better than rye flour for making all kinds of bread and muffins, but the meal, like the old fashioned corn or Indian meal, grows musty in a short time in hot weather, so that but a small quantity should be bought at a time. In most families there is a large amount of corn or Indian meal used, but the quantity purchased at a time depends upon the kind of meal selected. The common kind, which is made by grinding between two mill-stones, retains a great deal of moisture, and, in hot weather, will soon grow musty ; but the granulated meal will keep for an}'^ length of time. The corn for this meal is first dried ; and it takes about two years for this. Then the outer husks are re- moved, and the corn is ground by a process that produces grains like granulated sugar. After once using this meal one will not will- ingly go back to the old kind. Indian meal is made from two kinds of corn. Northern and Southern. The former gives the yellow meal, and is much richer than the Southern, of which white meal is made. All steamed brown breads are better when put to steam over cold water which is then brought to boiling point and kept constanth' boiling until the bread is done. . Sweet milk may be used in place of 20 BREAD-MAKING. sour, and vice versa, remembering that the proportions are one level teaspoon soda to one pint sour milk, and with sweet milk two heap- ing teaspoons baking powder, or two teaspoons cream tartar and one of soda, to one quart flour. Sponpe for Winter Use. — Peel and boil four or five medium sized potatoes in two quarts water (which will boil down to one quart by the time the potatoes are cooked) ; when done, take out and press through a colander, or mash very line in the crock in which the sponge is to be made ; make a well in the center, into Avhich put one cup flour, and pour over it theboiling water from the potatoes ; stir thoroughly, and when cool add a pint of tepid water, flour enough to make a thin batter, and one cup yeast. This sponge makes very moist bread. Bread Sponge and Bread. — Six potatoes boiled and mashed while hot, two tablespoons each white sugar and butter, one quart tepid water ; into tliis stir three cups flour ; beat to a smooth batter, add six tablespoons yeast; set overnight, and in the morning knead in sufficient flour to make a stiff, spongy dough ; knead vig- orously for fifteen minutes, set away to rise, and when light knead for ten minutes ; mold out into moderate-sized loaves, and let rise until they are like delicate or sponge-cake. Bread Sponge and Bread. — Five ])ints Avarm water, five quarts sifted flour, one coffee-cup yeast ; mix in a two-gallon stone jar, cover closely, and set in a large tin pan, so that if the sponge rises over the top of the jar the drippings may fall into the pan. Set to rise the evening before baking. In the winter be careful to set in a Avarm place. In the morning sift six quarts flour into a pail, pour the sponge into a bread-pan or bowl, add two tablespoons salt, then the flour gradually; mix and knead well, using up nearly all the flour. Tliis first kneading is the most important, and should occupy at least twenty minutes. ]Make the bread in one largo loaf, set away in a warm place, and cover with a cloth. It ought to rise in half an hour, when it should be kneaded thoroughly again for ten minutes. Then take enough dough for three goo 1-sized loaves (a quart bowl of dough to each), give five minutes' kneading to each loaf, and place to rise in a dripping- pan Avell greased with lard. The loaves will be light in five Cooler for Briad after Bakiug. ^ or tcu miuutes, aud wlll bakc in a properly heated oven in half an hour. Make aAvell in the cen- ter of the remaining doudi, and into it put a half tea-cup of white sugar, one tea-cup of lard, and two eggs, which mix thoroughly with BREAD-MAKING. 21 the dough, knead into one large loaf, set in a warm place about fifteen minutes to rise, and, when light, knead five minutes and let rise again for about ten minutes, when it should be light. Take out of pan and knead on bread-board, roll about an inch in thickness, cut out with a biscuit-cutter, and place in dripping-pan ; let rise five minutes and bake twenty minutes. In winter more time must be allowed for rising. This makes three loaves and ninety biscuit. Bread. — Set s{)onge at nine o'clock in the evening in summer, and keep it in a cool place ; or at noon and make it up in the even- ing. Do not keep in the cellar or it will sour. In the Avinter set it at six o'clock at night and place where it will keep warm. For the sponge use one yeast cake soaked in lukewarm water, three potatoes boiled and mashed fine and one pint flour. Scald with the boiling potato water, adding the yeast alter the mixture has become cool, and mixing to a smooth paste. Add a teaspoon salt and beat fifteen minutes. When the sponge foams it is risen sufficiently ; then add a pint warm water and flour to make a smooth dough that will not stick to the fingers, set in a warm place, and when full of cells work in all the flour possible. Let it rise and knead until the gas stops cracking. ]\Iake into loaves, let rise, and increase the heat of the oven after the first twenty minutes of baking. Apple Bread. — To make bread from apples or other fruits, pare them, put them over the fire and stew them tender, adding a little sugar if they are very sour ; then pulp them through a sieve. Use this pulp as the basis of bread ; mix one pound of fruit pulp with two pounds flour, teaspoon salt, one gil) liquid yeast, and water enough to make a soft dough ; knead, make into loaves, let rise and bake as ordinary bread. Pears and other fruits may also be used, the fact being remembered that the juice of fruit must not be ex- stacted, but must be allowed to replace water or milk in making the bread. Fruit breads should be eaten -wdth some precaution, as their action may be laxative ; in this connection it may be well to give a good recipe for a harmless vegetable bread of the same nature. Bean Bread. — The use of potatoes in bread is well known, but not so the fact that beans, parsnips, carrots, turnips, beets and sweet potatoes may be emplo3^ed either for purposes of variety or economy ; any of these vegetables may be used after being boiled and reduced to a puree, or pulp, according to the directions given below, care be- ing taken to extract their moisture by rolling the puree lengthwise in a strong tov/el, and then squeezing it as dry as possible by having the ends of the towel twisted tight by two persons. Bread with Buttermilk. — The evening before baking, bring to the boiling point two quarts buttermilk (or boil sour milk and take the same quantity of the whey), and pour into a crock in which 22 BREAD-MAKIXG. a scant tea-cup sifted flour has been placed. Let stand till suffi- ciently cool, then add half a cup of yeast, and flour to make a thick batter ; the better and longer the sponge is stirred the whiter ■will be tlie l)read. In the morning sift the flour into the bread-pan, pour the s])onge in the center, stir in some of the flour, and let stand until after breakfast; then mix, kneading for about half an hour, the longer the better; when light, mold into loaves, this time kneading as little as possible. The secret of good bread ii* having good j'cast, and not baking too hard. This makes four loaves and forty biscuit. Hop- Yeast Bread. — One tea-cup yeast, three pints warm water ; make a thin sponge at tea time, cover and let it remain two hours or until very light. By adding the water to the flour first and having the sponge quite warm, it is never necessary to put the sponge over hot water or in an oven to make it rise. Knead into a loaf before going to bed ; in the morning mold into three loaves, spreading a little lard between as they are put in the pan. When light, bake one hour, having oven quite hot when the bread is put in, and very mod- erate when it is done. (Bread made in this vray is never sour or heavy.) To have fine, light biscuit, add shortening at night, and in the morning make into biscuit and bake for breakfast. By this re- cipe bread is baked before the stove is cold from breakfast, and out of the way for other baking. Bread ivifh Potato Sponge. — Pare and boil four or five potatoes, mash fine, and add one pint flour ; pour on the mixture first boil- ing water enough to moisten well, then about one quart cold water, after which add flour enough to make stiff batter. When cooled to "scarcely milk-warm," put in one-half pint (or more will do no harm) of yeast, and let it stand in a warm place overnight ; in the morning add to this sponge one cup lard, stir in flour, and knead well. The more kneading the finer and whiter the bread will be ; pounding also with a potato-masher improves the bread greatly, and is rather easier than so much kneading. When quite stiff and well worked and pounded, let it rise again, and when light make into loaves or biscuit, adding no more flour except to flour the hands and board — merely enough to prevent the bread from sticking. Let it rise again, then bake ; and immediat<^ly after taking from the oven wrap in a wet towel until partly cold, in order to soften the crust. If !/east and Hour are good (essentials in all cases), the above process will make good bread. Foor-Maivs Bread. — One pint buttermilk or sour milk, one level teaspoon soda, a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make as stiff as soda-biscuit dough ; cut into three pieces, handle as little as possible, roll an inch thick, place in dripping-pan, bake twenty or thn-ty minutes in a hot oven, and Avhen done wrap in a bread cloth. Kat while warm, breaking open like a biscuit. Each cake will be about the size of a pie. BREAD-MAKING. 23 Bread with Potatoes. — To one quart blood-warm water or milk (if milk is used, it must first be scalded and then cooled to blood heat), take two quarts sifted flour and one tea-cup fresh potato yeast. Put the milk or water into a one-gallon stone crock and stir the flour gradually into it, then add the yeast, beating it vigorously for fifteen minutes ; set to rise in a warm place, putting the crock in a pan (to catch the drippings if it should run over). If in winter, mix it as early as six or seven o'clock in the evening. Cover very closely with a clean white cloth, with a blanket over it, kept purpose- ly for this (the cloths for bread should not be used for any thing else). In the morning, sift three quarts of flour into the bread-pan, setting it in the oven for a few minutes to bring it to the same tem- perature as the sponge. Pare six medium-sized potatoes, and boil them in three pints water; when thoroughly cooked, remove the potatoes and pour the boiling hot water (which will now be about one quart} over the flour, stirring it with a spoon. Mash the pota- toes very fine, and beat them as if for the table ; mix them in the flour, and when cooled to blood heat pour in the sponge, and mix well. Add more Avetting or flour if needed, rub oft' all that adheres to the sides of the pan, and mix with the dough, kneading it from forty-five minutes to one hour ; then place the pan to rise, cover closely with the cloth and blanket, setting it where there is no draft (this is imperative). When it has risen to twice its size, knead down in the pan, take one quart of dough for each loaf, knead each five minutes with quick, elastic movements, grease the sides of the loaves with sweet, melted butter if two or more are placed in the same pan ; or the loaves may be greased all over lightly before placing in the pan, a process which adds much to the sweetness of the crust. The pan should be thoroughly but lightly greased. Let rise until as large again as when molded, then bake. Have your oven moderately heated at first, Avith a fire in the stove that will keep it of a uniform temperature. (For manner of testing oven, see general instructions for bread-making). Bake from three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter, according to the size of the loaves, during which time the bread should be carefully watched to see that the proper de- gree of heat is steadily kept up. Before browning they will have risen to double their size when placed in the oven. The heat of the oven is all important, for if too hot the loaves will not rise sufii- cientl}' ; if too cold they will rise too much, and the bread will be coarse and porous. When done, place on side, and cool without covering. Never use flour without sifting, as sifting enlivens and ferates the floor, and makes both mixing and rising easier and quick- er. Quick rising makes whiter bread, and it is very necessary that in all its different risings bread should be mixed as soon as ready. Bread Raised Once. — No other yeast is made with so ,little trouble as potato yeast. Bread made from it keeps moist longer, and 24 BREAD-MAKING. there is no dancfer of injuring the flavor of the bread hy using too much. Wlicn plentifully used, a beautiful, light, sweet, fine-grained bread is produced by only one rising, thus saving not only time and trouble, but also, what is more important, the sweet flavor and nutri- tious qualities which greatly suffer by the second fermentation, almost universally practiced. When this fact is thoroughly understood, every one will appreciate the importance of checking excessive fer- mentation, during which decomposition actually takes place, and the delicate, foamy loaves, "yeasted to death," which so many fam- ilies now use and call the "staff of life," will give place to the sweet, substantial, home-made loaves, such as our good mothers and grand- mothers kneaded with their own skilled hands. Take care that the yeast is good and " lively," for, without this, failure is certain. To make three loaves of bread, M'arm and lightly grease the baking-pans, sift three quarts or more of flour into the bread-pan, press down the middle, and into it put two small tal>le- spoons of tine salt; pour in slowly one quart of milk-warm water, constantly stirring with one hand in the flour, until a thin Ijatter is formed ; add a pint or more of potato yeast or one tea-cup of hop yeast, or one yeast cake dissolved in warm water, or a piece of compressed yeast as large as a walnut, dissolved in the same manner. Mix thoroughly, adding more and more flour, until a stifl" dough is formed; place on the bread-board, knead vigor- ously for twenty minutes or more, flouring the board frequently to prevent the dough from sticking to it, divide into loaves of a size to suit pans, mold into a comely shape, place in pans, rub over the top a light coating of sweet, drawn butter, set in a warm, not tr)0 hot place to rise, cov(^r lightly to keep off dust and air, watch and oc- casionally turn the pans around when necessary, to make the loaves rise evenly ; when risen to about double the original size, draw across the top of each lengthwise with a sharp knife, making a slit half an inch deep, place them in a moderately heated oven, and bake one hour, watching carefully from time to time to make certain that a ])roper degree of heat is kept up. Before browning they Avill rise to double the size of loaf Avhich was placed in the oven, and pans must be provided deep enough to retain them in shape. Bake until well done and nicely browned. Nothing adds more to the sweetness and digestibility of wheaten bread than thorough l)aki]ig. When done, remove from pans immediately, to prevent the sweating and soft- ening of the crust. Bread Raised Twice. — Measure out four quarts sifted flour, take out a pint in a cup, and place remainder in a bread-pan. Make a well in the middle, into which turn one tablespoon sugar, one of salt, and one cup yeast ; then mix in one pint milk which has been made ])lood-warni by adding one pint boiling water; beat well with a strong spoon, add one tablespoon lard_, knead for twenty to thirty minutes, and let rise overnight ; in the morning knead BREAD-MAKING. 26 again — slashing the dough with a sharp knife adds to its lightness and texture — make into loaves, let them rise one hour, and bake fifty minutes. Water may be used instead of the pint of milk, in which case use twice as much lard. Bread Raised Three Times. — Begin at about 5 p. m., plan for six loaves, somewhat larger than bakers' loaves ; take two little cakes of yeast, put them into a i^int of tepid water, and when soft beat in thoroughly enough flour to make a thick batter, and put in a warm place. If the excellent " Farmer's Yeast," the recipe for which is given hereafter, is used, take half a tea-cup and stir into the batter. A good dish for this purpose is a large bowl, a broad, open pitcher, or a bright, three-cjuart tin pail, which should be clean in the strictest sense. This should rise in about two hours, and when nearly light, take six or eight medium-sized potatoes, pare neatly, rinse clean, and boil in three pints of water till well done, mash very fine in the water while hot. Have ready a bread-pan of sifted flour, into which put a teaspoon of salt, half a cup of Avhite sugar and a bit of lard as large as an egg ; then riddle the potato mash, hot as it is, through a sieve or fine colander into the flour, and stir with a kitchen spoon into a stiff' dough. This scalds about half the flour used in the batch of bread. This mass must cool till it ti^ill not scald the yeasty which may now be mixed in and put in a warm, not hot, place for second rising, which will be accomplished by morning, when the kneading ma}- be done. Kneading is the finest point of bread-mak- ing, and contains more of the art than any other ; it requires skill, time, patience and hard work. Work in flour no faster than is re- quired to allow thorough kneading. Avhich can not be done in less than forty-five minutes, but should not be worked much over an hour; one hour is a good uniform rule. The mechanical bakers use sets of rollers driven by steam power, between Avhich the dough is passed, comins; out a sheet an inch thick ; it is folded together several times and rolled again and again. This process should be imitated somewhat by the hands in the family kitchen. The work- ing of the dough gives grain and flakiness to the bread. The dough when kneaded should be soft, but not sticky — stiff enough to retain its roundness on the board. Put back into the pan for the third ris- ing, which will require but little time, and when light cut off enough for each loaf by itself. Knead but little, and put into the baking- pans. If the first kneading has been well done, no more flour will be needed in molding into loaves. These must remain in the baking pans till nearly as large as the loaves ought to be, Avhen they may be put into a well heated oven. If the oven is a trifle too hot, or if it tends to bake hard on the top, a piece of brown paper may be put over the loaves (save some clean grocer's paper for this purpose), and from forty to sixty minutes will bake it thoroughly. After the loaves are put into the baking-pans, avoid jarring them, as it will make portions of them heavy. 26 BREAD-MAKING. If the yeast is " set " at 5 p. m. the bread will be ready for dinner next day ; if in the morning, the baking Avill be done early in the evening, or twelve hours after, with fair temperature and good yeast. Bread made in this way will be good for a week, and Avith fair weather and careful keeping, even two weeks. When dry, a slice toasted will be as crisp, sweet and granular as Yankee ginger-bread. Bread Making Made Easy. — This quantity is for eight loaves but may be varied at pleasure. Three quarts warm water, in which melt a lump of butter the size of a hen's egg. Stir in flour sufficient to make a smooth, thick batter. Then add a bowlful of yeast Avhich must be well stirred in. Now with the hands knead in more flour until tlie dough is firm, smooth and elastic, and will not adhere to the hands. Cover closely and set in a warm place overnight. You cannot be too careful in keeping the cold air from it, for if once chilled the bread will not be so light and sweet. Next morning the dough will be as light as a foam, and before it begins to subside take out on bread-board and chop with a chopping knife for five minutes or even less Avill do. It will scarcely be necessary to add any more flour. Mold into loaves and when light, bake. It will be seen that this requires but two risings, thereby retaining much of the sweetness of the flour which passes off in fermentation. Set the Sjwnge at 8 o'clock in the evening, and cliop and mold into loaves before break- fast next morning, and by the time breakfast is over it is light enough for tlie oven. Bread in Summer or Winter. — In summer take three pints of cold or tepid water, four tablespoons yeast, one teaspoon salt; stir in flour enough to make a thick sponge (rather thicker than griddle-cakes). Let stand until morning, then add more flour, mix stiff and knead ten minutes ; place in a pan, let rise until light, knead for another ten minutes ; mold into four loaves and set to rise, but do not let it get too light ; bake in a moderate oven one hour. If bread is mixed at six o'clock in the morning the baking ought to be done by ten o'clock. In winter take one pint of buttermilk or clabbered milk, let it scald (not boil) ; make a well in the center of the flour, into it turn the hot milk, add one teaspoon salt, enough flour and Avater to make sufficient sponge, and one tea-cup of yeast ; let stand until morning and then ])repare the bread as in summer. This is more convenient to make in winter, since a hot fire is needed to heat the milk. Bread tcith Compressed Yeast. — When it is possible to obtain fresh compressed yeast, also called German yeast, an excellent bread can be made in about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the leavening or "raising " the dougli is advantageous, because less of the nutritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the long process ; for two loaves of bread use three pounds of flour, BREAD-MAKING. 27 about a quart of water, two teaspoons salt, and an ounce of fresh compressed yeast ; dissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarm water ; stir in sufficient flour to make a thick batter or sponge, cover with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place to rise ; if properly covered and heated it will rise to a light foam in about half an hour ; then stir into it the salt, dissolved in a little warm water ; add the rest of the flour and sufficient lukewarm water to make a dough stiff enough to knead ; knead it five minutes ; divide it into two loaves, put them into buttered baking-pans, cover them Avith a folded toAvel, and set them in a warm place to rise twice their height ; then bake them as directed in the preceding recipe for raised bread. In raising the sponge be sure that the heat is not sufficient to ''scald" or harden it, as that will prevent fermentation ; therefore do not place it where the hand can not be held with comfort ; keep it covered from draughts. If, when it is light, it has become at all soured, as it sometimes will in summer, stir into it before adding the balance of the flour a salt- spoon baking-soda, dissolved in a very little luke-warm water. The dough made for home-made bread can be baked as raised biscuit ; and it can be made a little sweeter by kneading in with it a tablespoon each of sugar and melted butter ; or it can be boiled in soups and stews as raised dumplings. To test the heat of the oven follow this method : The "moderate oven" temperature is that degree of heat which will turn ordinary writing-paper dark yellow or buff, that is the color of kindling-wood ; put a sheet of paper in the oven and close the doo?> if the paper blazes the oven is too hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat for ten minutes; then again test it with more paper; it may be necessary to try the temperature several times, but the time thus used is well spent. Another simple way of testing the heat of the oven is to hold the hand in it after it has been closed for some time ; if the hand can be held there without burning for quarter of a min- ute the heat is good. Quick Bread. — Peel ten potatoes, boil, drain, saving water, and mash thoroughly ; add three tablespoons each sugar and salt, three of flour scalded in half pint water ; mix and add a quart of the boiling potato-water, also five quarts tepid water and a cup of soft yeast. Put in a warm place till it foams nicely, then put away to cool. When thoroughly cold., seal or cork tightly and put in a cool place. To make the bread, sift flour in pan for number of loaves re- quired and wet it with some of the. above prepared rising, icarmed, (very important) and nothing else ; when well mixed mold into loaves and put in a warm place to rise ; if directions are strictly followed, bread Avill be light in two hours. Bake an hour, and thus in three hours perfect bread can be made and baked. By adding to part of the dough when mixed for the loaves, half teacup lard or butter, one egg and three tablespoons sugar, let rise and then make into biscuit, let rise again and bake, taking for all an hour and a half more — this 28 BREAD-MAKING. gives biscuits or rolls in less than four hours, as soon as with com- pressed yeast, with the advantage of the rising being home-made. This comes strongly endorsed by an experienced bread baker. Salt-Risi7ig Bread. — The leaven for this bread is prepared thus: Take a pint of warm water — about 90° — (if a little too hot defeat is certain) in a perfectly clean bowl and stir up a thick bat- ter, adding only a teaspoon of salt : a thorough beating of the batter is important. Set in a pan of warm water to secure uniformity of temperature, and in two to four hours it will begin to rise. The ris- ing is much more sure if coarse flour or " shorts " is used instead of fine flour. When the " rising " is nearly light enough, take a pint of milk and a pint of boiling water, (a tablespoon of lime water added is good and often prevents souring) mix the sponge in the bread-pan, and when cooled to about milk-warm, stir in the rising. The sponge thus made will be light in two to four hours, with good warmth. The dough requires less kneading than ycast-raised dough. The bread is simpler, but not so certain of rising, and you leave out all the ingre- dients save the flour, water (milk is not essential), and a pinch of salt. It should be made more frequently as it dries faster than bread containing potatoes. Another Salt-Rising Bread. — In summer take at night one (scant) pint of new milk, half as much hot water, which will make the whole lukewarm, a teaspoon salt, one of sugar and a very little soda. Mix all in a nice, sweet pitcher (it must be perfectly clean and sweet), stir in one tablespoon of corn meal and add flour enough to make a medium batter ; or, use the " lightning yeast " given hereafter, or stir the rising as recommended above with " mid- dlings " or shorts, leaving out the soda and sugar; stir well, place the pitcher in an iron kettle Avith quite warm Avater, using so much water that the pitcher will barely rest on the bottom of the kettle ; cover closely and leave all night (on the stove if the fire is nearly out) where it will be kept warm, not hot, for an hour or two. A quart pitcher should be full in the morning; if not, add a. spoon of flour, stir well, warm the water in the kettle, replace the pitcher, cover, and keep it loarm until light. Have ready two quarts of sifted flour in a pan, make a hole in the center, put in an even teaspoon of salt, a tea-cup of nearly boiling water; add one pint of new milk, and stir a batter there in the center of the flour, add the " empty- ings " from the pitcher and stir well (tliere Avill be a good deal of flour all round tlie batter, and the top sliould be well sprinkled with flour) ; cover with another pan, keep warm until light — it will rise in an hour or even less, the batter showing through cracks in the flour — when it should be well and quickly Jcneaded^ and made directly into loaves, which place in the baking-pans, keep well covered and roarm until light, when it is ready to bake. If left standing too long BREAD-MAKING. 29 an unpleasant odor rises. The secret of success is to keep it warm but not at all hot. This bread is good if no milk is used ; indeed, some prefer it made with water alone instead of milk and water. In cold weather, if kitchen is cold at night, do not set " emptyings " over night, but make early in the morning. Sioeet Potato Bread. — Boil three large sweet potatoes, peel and mash them through a colander with a potato-masher, adding tea- spoon salt and tablespoon butter ; after they have been mashed, mix with them one cup and a half corn meal, a scant cup milk, and one egg beaten smooth ; pour batter into a buttered baking-pan, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Use the bread hot with plenty of butter. • Boston Broimi Bread. — One heaping coffee-cup each of corn, rye and Graham meal. The rye meal should be as fine as the Gra- ham, or rye flour may be used. Sitt the three kinds together as closely as possible, and beat together thoroughly with two cups New Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, two cups sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one dessert-spoon soda, one teaspoon salt ; pour into a tin form, place in a kettle of cold water, put on and boil four hours. Put on to cook as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too thin, but it is not, as this recipe has never been known to ^^0SEi3!iij^ fail. Serve warm, with baked l^eans or Thanks- flHL fiH| giving turkey. The bread should not quite fill the |^^lM-i^ ^^ form (or a tin pail with cover will answer), as H^ ^ jJ iiMl, it must have room to swell. See that the water ^B ^^mLII^^ does not boil up to the top of the form ; also ^^ flvilHF take care it does not boil entirely away or stop ^fe_Mr^^^ boiling. To serve it, remove the lid ancl set it a ^^ few moments into the open oven to dry the top, nu Form for Bread. and it will then turn out in perfect shape. This bread can be used as a pudding, and served with a sauce made of thick sour cream, well sweetened and seasoned with nutmeg ; or it is good toasted the next day. Boston Brown Bread. — Boil and mash fine six potatoes and make into a sponge with one cup yeast, three cups flour and one quart warm water, adding two tablespoons each of lard and brown sugar. When light, sift into the bread tray two quarts Indian meal, one quart rye or wheat flour and one tablespoon each of soda and salt. Pour the risen sponge into this and mix, adding warm water if needed, and work in gradually a half cup molasses. Knead well and let rise six or seven hours, knead again, make into loaves, let rise one hour and bake in moderate oven. Eastern Brown Bread. — One pint each of rye or Graham and Indian meal, one cup molasses, three- fourths cup sour milk, one and one-half teaspoons soda, one and one-half pints cold water. Put on stove over cold water, steam four hours and brown over in the oven. 30 BREAD-MAKIN». Brown Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, and one-half cup molasses ; into these put one heaping teaspoon soda, two cups corn meal, one cup Graham flour and one teaspoon salt Use coffee cups. Steam three hours, and afterwards brown in oven Brown Bread with Baki7ig Powder. — One and a fourth cups sweet milk, one cup each corn meal and Graham, one-half cup mo- lasses, two heaping teaspoons baking powder, or use sour milk and soda. Measure in coffee-cups. Steam three or four hours. Can be made on Saturday and re-steamed for Sunday morning breakfast. Brown Bread with Mush. — Pour two quarts hot corn meal mush, made as for eating, over two quarts Graham flour (wheat may be used) ; when cool add one quart sponge, one coffee-cup molasses, teaspoon salt, half teaspoon soda ; mix well together with a spoon or the hands, add more flour if needed to make it a ,9^//^' batter, and place in small bread pans (such as are described in the preceding preface on baking bread), filling them a little more than half full and smoothing over with a spoon dipped in water. Let rise till there is a seam or crack in the loaf, then bake in a moderate oven ; when done, rub over with butter, place on the side, wrap in a cloth, and when cold put in a jar or box. Bost07i Corn Bread. — One cup sweet milk, two cups sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, one cup flour, four cups corn meal, two tea- spoons soda ; steam three hours, and brown a few minutes in the oven. Boiled Corn Bread. — One and one-fourth pints each of sweet milk and buttermilk or sour cream, half a pint molasses, one tea- spoon soda, three teaspoons cream tartar, one even tablespoon salt, one and a fourth pints each of corn meal and flour ; sift the soda and cream tartar in the flour ; mix all the ingredients thoroughly together and put in a buttered tin pail ; cover closely, place in a ket- tle two-thirds full of boiling water : cover, and boil steadily for three hours, replenisliing when needful Avith boiling water. To be eaten hot with butter. Corn Bread. — One pint corn meal sifted, one pint flour, one pint sour milk, two eggs beaten light, one-half cup sugar, piece of butter size of an egg ; add, the last thing, one teaspoon soda in a little milk ; add to the beaten egg th(> milk and meal alternately, then the butter and sugar. If sweet milk is used, add one teaspoon cream tartar ; bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Steamed Corn Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, (butter-milk if you have it), two cups corn meal, one cup flour, two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon soda, one tablespoon salt, two eggs, put in a cake pan with stem in center, place in a steamer, and steam three hours, or longer, keep closely covered, put in stove BREAD-MAKING. 31 fifteen minutes to brown before sending to table ; set in a pan of cold water a few minutes and it will turn out nicely. Corn Bread. — Take one quart buttermilk and one heaping pint corn meal, one teaspoon soda, one of salt, one tablespoon sugar and three eggs ; have the stove very hot, and do not bake in too deep a pan. The batter seems too thin, but bakes very nicely. The Bread of Our Forefathers. — Put in a pan two quarts of meal, a half-pint of flour, stir up w^ell ; pour in the center a pint of boiling water, stir up enough of the meal to make a thin batter ; when cool, put in a cup of yeast, a teaspoon of salt and enough Avarm water to make a thick batter ; let rise, then place in a deep, well-greased pan, cover with another pan, and place in a moderate oven. When nearly done, remove the cover, and bake slowly until done. Excellent when cold. All baking-pans for bread should be made with covers, made of the same material, and high enough to permit the bread to rise to its full size. If pan is deep enough to permit the bread to rise without touching it, a flat piece of tin or sheet-iron will answer for the cover, or a cover may be made of paper, or another pan may be inverted over the bread. The office of the cover is to prevent the crust from browning hard before the expansion of the gases has made the bread light and porous. Plain Corn Bread. — One well-heaped pint corn meal, one pint sour or buttermilk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt ; bake in dripping or gem pans. If preferrecl, one heaping tablespoon of sugar may be added. Steamed Corn Bread. — Two cups each of corn meal, Graham flour and sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda ; steam tAvo hours and a half Graham Bread. — Take a little over a quart of warm water, one' half cup brown sugar or molasses, one-fourth cup hop yeast, and one and one-half teaspoons salt ; thicken the water with unbolted flour to a thin batter ; add sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more flour until quite stiff". In the morning add a small teaspoon soda, and flour enough to make the batter stiff" as can be stirred with a spoon ; put it into pans and let rise again ; then bake in even .oven, not too hot at first ; keep warm while rising; smooth over the loaves with a spoon or knife dipped in Avater. Graham Bread. — To one and a half pints of tepid water add one heaping teaspoon of salt and one-half cup of sugar; stir in one-half pint or more of the sponge made of white flour, as in re- cipe for " Bread with Potato Yeast ;" add Graham flour until almost too stiff to stir ; put in the baking-pan and let rise well, which will 32 BREAD-MAKING. take about two hours, bake in a moderate oven, and when done, wrap in a wet toAvel until cool. Some prefer to add one egg and a tablespoon lard or butter. Graham Bread. — Mix smooth two quarts Graham flour and quart warm water ; add half a cake compressed yeast dissolved in Avarm Avater, put into a deep sheet iron bread pan and when light bake one hour. The dough should be as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Graham Bread with Baking Powder. — Three cups Graham flour, one teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking poAvder, half cup sugar and tAvo and one-half cups SAveet milk, or use half milk and halt water. Sift the flour ana baking poAvdor together and add milk, salt and sugar quickly. Bake in rather hot oA'en for fortA' or fifty minutes, protecting Avith thick broAvn paper the first fifteen minutes. Graham Bread with Soda. — Mix one cup Avarm Avater Avith tAvo tablespoons syrup, one-half teaspoon soda and one cup Avhite ilour. Stir in Graham flour AA'ith a spoon until stiff". Set in a Avarm place one-half hour to rise and bake one and one-fourth hours. Graham Bread, Steamed. — Tavo cups Graham, tAvo cu{)s Indian ineal, tAA^o cups sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one cup mo- lasses, one teaspoon soda, a little salt. Steam i-^,, f.^r - tAvo hours and dry a fcAV minutes in hot oven. Quick Graham Bread. — One and a half pints sour milk, half cup NcAV Orleans molasses, a little salt, tAvo teaspoons soda dissolved in a little hot Avatcr, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in Avith a spoon ; pour in Avell-greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed and bake tAVo hours. Rye Bread unth Soda. — Tavo and one-half cups sour milk.tAvo- thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon salt, tAvo cups sifted Avheat flour and three and one-half cups rye meal — or if preferred all rye may be used. Bake in a loaf or gem pans. Bije and Indian Bread. — One quart of rye meal or rye flour, tAvo quarts of Indian meal, scalded (l)y placing in a pan and i)0uring just enough boiling water over it, stirring constantly with a spoon, to merely AA-et it, but not enough to make it into a batter), one-half teacup molasses, tAvo teaspoons salt, one of soda, one teacup yeast; make as stiff" as can be stirred Avith a spoon, mixing Avith Avarm Avater, and let rise all night ; then put in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold Avater, let it stanc'' a short time and bake fiA'e or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let it remain all night. Graham may be used instead of rye and baked as aboA'e. In the olden time it Avas placed in kettle, alloAvcd to rise, then placed on the hearth before the fire, with coals on top of lid, and baked. BKEAD-MAKIXG. 33 Rye Bread. — Make a sponge of one quart Avarm water, one tea- cup yeast, tliifkened with rye Hour; put in warm place to rise over night ; scald one ])int corn meal ; when cool add it to sponge, and add rye flour till thick enough to knead, knead hut little, let rise, mold' into loa\-es, i)lace in deep i)ie-tins or small pudding-pans, let rise and Itake ; or, thicken the sponge with rye fl{nn-, and proceed as above. A\'hc;it sponge may Ijo used instead of rye. Rye Bread. — Make sponge as for wheat bi'cad, let rise over- night, then mix it up with the rye tloiu' as stiff as can he kneaded, add to the quantity for three loaVes of bread, two cu])s molasses and a very little grated orange peel. Let rise, mold into loaves and when risen, bake. Vienna Bread. — In some bakeries a i)eculiar gloss is given to the surface of Vienna bread by the introduction of a jet of steam into the oven while the bread is baking ; but if Aviien the bread made at liome is half bakctl it is brushed over Avith a soft B]:)onge wet in inilk the loaf will i>resent a glossy crust. Xo ]iarticular kind of oven is required, but it is necessary that the bread should be bnkcd at a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit. In the bakeries the dough is mixed in zinc-lined wooden troughs, but an ordinary earthen bread bowl may be used. The temperature of the room in which tin; bread is made should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the milk and water used for making the bread should be of the same degree of heat; only the best bread flour should be used. The length of time required to complete the process is about three hours and a half. The proportions of an ordinary family baking are four pounds of flour, three pints of milk and water, half an ounce of salt, and on(3 and three-quarter ounces of very fresh comj^ressed yeast. The pro- cess of making is as follows : Place the flour in the bread bowl, and in it put the milk, water, and salt ; mix Avith the liquid enough of the flour to make a very thin batter ; next rub the yeast to powder between the hands, and mix it into the batter ; cover the bowl close- ly, and let it stand for three-quarters of an horn*. At the end of that time mix in the rest of the flour smoothly, and let the dough thus made stand again closely covered for two hours and a half, until it is light and elastic ; then cut it into pound pieces, and each pound into twelve equal parts ; flatten these small pieces of dt)Ugh in squares three-quarters of an inch thick, fold theircornersto the center, ])inch them down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made oven* on board covered with cloth ; let them stand for about ten minutes, turn them up again on a baking-sheet, and put them into a hot oven to bake quickly, for about fifteen minutes ; when half done brush them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking them. This process seems to imply a little trouble to the bread-maker, but the delicious quality of the bread thus produced Avell repays the ex- tra ]Kiins taken in making it ; and a little practice will enable any person to ac<'onq>lish the result successfully always. 34 IJICEAKKA.ST AND TKA CAKIlS. KREAKFAST ATs^l :> TKA CAKES. To make biscuit, take a i)ait uT ihc dougli left from bread-making when it is I'eady to mold into loaves, work in the lard and any other ingredients desired, such as butter, eggs, sugar, spice, etc., also using a little more flour; let rise once, then mix down and let rise again, turn out on the bread-board, knead a few minutes, roll, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter or mold with the hand. Place in a well-greased y niaking the oven as hot as can be without Ijurning, and allowing it to cool off gradually as they bake ; this makes them very light, but one has to watch closely to keep them from being scorched. Any kind of bread or pastry mixed with water requires a hotter fire than that mixed willr milk. Biscuit and rolls should be allowed to rise one-half longer than bread loaves, because th(? loaves of the former, being smaller, are ]>enetrated sooner l)y the heat, and, of course, the fermentation is stopped sooner, and the rolls do not rise so much in the oven. Biscuit for tea at six must be molded two hours before, which will give am[>lt> time for rising and baking. Parker irouse rolls for BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. oO •breakfast at eight must be made ready at live. Many think it unnec- essary to knead down either broad or biscuit as often as here di- rected ; but if attention is given to tlie dough at the right time, and it is not suffered to become too light it will be much nicker, whiter, and of a finer texture if these directions are followed. The almost universal custom is to set the sponge at night, but many excellent bread-makers differ widely from this in practice and their objections deserve candid consideration in this nineteenth cen- tury, when 80 much is written of dyspepsia and its causes. Some medical authorities assert that cancer in the stomach has its origin in dyspepsia, which, in the beginning, is caused by the use of indi- gestible yeast ])read, in which the process of fermentation has been allowed to go so far that a certain amount of actual decomposition has taken place. This is not the fault of such recipes as arc given in this book, but from failure to mix the bread at each successive rising at the 2)roper time. The objer-tion to setting sponge at night is that it stands too long. Bread, to be white, sweet and digestible, must be mixed immediately after the sponge has risen to the proper point, which may he Iniov.^n by its puify appearance^ usually rising higher in the middle than, at the sides of the crock; if it sinhs in, the center, it has stood too long. Soda and baking powder biscuit must be handled as little and made as rapidly as possible ; mix soda and cream tartar or baking- powder in the flour (with sweet milk use baking-poAvdcr, or soda and cream tartar, with sour milk soda alone), so that the effervesence takes place in the mixture. One teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two teaspoons baking-powder, to one quart flour, is about the right proportion. Bake in a quick oven as soon as made, and they rise more quickly if put into hot pans. (iems of all kinds re- quire a hot oven, but the fire should be built some time before they are put into the oven, and allowed to go doAvn by the time they are light, as the heat necessary to raise them will Inirn them in baking if kept up. All biscuit and bread, except bro\\ n ami Graham bn.'ad. should be pricked with a fork before putting in the oven. Soda and raised biscuit and bread or cake, when stale, can l»e made almost as nice as fresh by plunging for an instant into cold water, and then placing in a pan in the oven ten or fifteen minutes ; thus treated thev should be used immediatelv. 36 BKEAKFAST AND TKA TAKES. Wiiflle-ii-ons shnuld Ix- hoatocl. then buttcivd or ^I'Cii^ed with lard, and one side filled with batter, closed and laid on the fire or placed on the stove, and after a lew minutes turned cn. The success fif these recipes, and all others in this book in which soda and cream tartar are used, will depend on the purity of these ingredients. Ahvays 1»uy the pure Englisli })icarbonate of soda, and X\\Q pure cream tartar. They arc higher-priced, but cheaper in the end, and are free from injurious substances. When not found at the grocei-'s. they may generally be had at the druggist's. Baking Powder. — Sixteen ounces corn starch, eight of bicar- bonate of soda, five of tartaric acid, mix thoroughly; or eight ounces flour, eight of English })icarbonate of soda, seven of tartaric acid ; mix Ihoi-oughly by passing several times through a sieve. Ba/nioc/,s. — Cream one poUnd butter with one and one-fourth ]»ovnids brown sugar, add six eggs whipped to a cream, one tea-s))Oon ginger, one and one-fourth ]>ounds white Indian meal ^a£e£^^|^^ and same of llr)ur. Bake in small cakes in cuj)s f>i' 'iB^ i ■ ' ■ ' ■ ■* gem i)ans and leave in them- until cold. '■"'" ''""'• BatDwrki^. — Wvi one pint Indian meal Avith boiling water or milk. Let stand a few minutes and add one egg, a little sweet cream or a tabl(!Spooii melted butter, anil salt. Make into l>alls and frv in hot lard. Bii'icnif. — Dissolve one rounded tablespoon u{ butter in a ])int of hot milk ; when lukewarm stir in one quart of Hour, add on<' beaten o^^. a little salt, and a cup of yeast ; work intt.) dougii un- til smooth. If winter, set in a warm place; if summer, in a cool one to rise. In the morning work softly and toll out one-half inch thick, cut into biscuit and set to rise for thirty minutes, when they will be ready to bake. Th(>se are deliciuus. Biscuit. — Take one (|uai't silted lloui' (loosely jiut in), three heaping teaspoons of Horsford's Bread Preparation, or l)aking pow- der, one teaspoon salt, three gills of water; shape with a spoon and the floiifed hand. « BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. 37 Buttermilk Biscuit. — One quart flour, one teaspoon soda, "butter or lard size of an egg, a little salt and buttermilk to make a soft dough. Roll out quickly and hake in hot oven. The following way of baking makes a ]>leasing novelty: Roll the dough thinner than ordinarily, spread well with butter previously softened, dust over thickly with white sugar and roll it up ; cut slices off from the end the thickness of ordinary biscuit, j)ut in buttered pans and bake Cream Biscuit. — Put three heaping tablespoons of sour cream into a bowl or pan holding a quart, and fill two-thirds lull of sweet milk ; add two tcasinjons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda and a little sah, with Hour enough to mix soft, and bake in quick oven. Fair II Biscuit. — Beat avcII together two ounces butter and a half pound of flour, adding the white of one egg, one teaspoon milk, four ounces sugar, two omices sweet, well ])onnded almonds, and work well into paste. Pinch oft' pieces the size of' a half dollar and bake on buttered paper. Hard Tea Biscuit. — Two ])0unds of ilour, one-fourth pound butter, one salt-spoon salt, three gills milk ; cut up the butter and rub it in the flour, add the salt and milk, knead dough for half an hour, cut cakes about as large as a small tea-cup and half an inch thick, prick with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven until they are a delicate 1)i'own. 7////// Biscuit. — On baking days reserve one small loaf and mix a rounded tablespoon butter, a level tablespoon sugar and one egg into it by pulling it to pieces with tlie hands ; knead into a loaf, let it rise, then by rolliug between the hands make into balls the size of a small hen's egg, place in rows in very well greased dripping-pan ; when half full raise the end that is empty almost per|»endicular. and. shake gently until the balls slide compactly together, then add more and continue doing so until the pan is full; rub over the top with melted l)utter, let rise until very light, and bake. Maple Biscuit. — To the well-beaten yolks of twelve eggs, add halfi)ound of powdered or granulated sugar and half a cup of sweet milk ; mix one teaspot>n l)aking powder in a (scant) half pound of sifted flour, then sift tlie flour gently into the batter and add flavor- ing, bake in biscuit pans, spreading tlie l>atter one and a half to two inches thick in the ])an. If rightly made it will be very light. Do not bake too fast and have the oven about as for sponge cake. When cold, cut into «lices three inches long and one inch wide. Ice the sides, ends and top with Avhite, pink and chocf)late icing. Dry in oven, and then, if desired, the bottom may be iced. Build in square blocks and place on table. Serve a plate of the white, one of the pink, and one of the ])roAvn, or thf'V may bf' mixed in building. •JO CiiKAKl-A.ST AND TKA CAKKS. PoUUo Biscuit. — One cup each butter, HUgar, milk, hot mashecl potatoes (free from lumps), one cup yeast and two eggs. Mix with enough flour to make a good batter, let rise, and acrti as much flour as can be stirred in i - u.t j ,,. with a spoon. Lot rise again, roll out to half an inch tliick. cut in small i-ound cakes, put two together and when litrht bake. Jiije Jjiscuii. — Two cups rye meal, one and a half cups flour, one egg, two cups sour milk, one-third cup molasses, salt and two teaspoons soda. ]\Iix lightly, roll out and bake. South Carolina Biscuit. — One quart .sweet cream or milk, one and a half cups butter or fresh lard, two tablespoons white sugar, one good teaspoon salt; add flour suflicient to make a stift" dough, knead v:)ell and mold into neat, small biscuits with the hands, as oui- grandmothers used to do ; add one good teaspoon cream tartar if preferred ; l)ake well, and you have good sweet biscuits that will keep for weeks in a dry place, and are very nice for traveling lunch. They are such as used to be sent to the army, and the "boys" relished them "hugely.-' Soda Biscuit. — Put one quart of Hour, befoi-e sifting, into sieve with one teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar (or three of baking powder), one of salt, and one tablespoon white sugar; mix all thoroughly with the flour, run through sieve, rub in one level tablespoon of lard or butter (or half and half), wet with half ]jint sweet milk, roll on board about an inch thick, cut with biscuit cutter, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Tf you have not milk, u.se a little more butter, and wet with water. Handle as little and make as rapidly as possible. Spoo/i Biscuit. — One quart sour milk or buttermilk, one tea- spoon soda, a little salt, two tablespoons melted lard, and flour enough for a stift' l)attcr ; drop in a hot gcni-pan and bake in a quick oven. Tea Biscuits. — Cook until mealy and tender three good sized potatoes, mash through colander, and add them to one quart flour in which two tablespoons of baking powder have been sifted, butter size of egg rubbed well through the flour, one well-beaten egg, one cup cream and milk enough to make a good firm dough. Roll out to one-half inch in thickness, cut into small cakes and bake in hut oven fifteen minut(.'S. Unleavened Biscuit. — Five cups Graham Hour, one cuj) warm (not hot) water, white of one egg well-beaten. liakc in gem pans. Biscuit au'l Fancy C3ke Cutters. BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. 39 Coifee Bread.— Or\e egg, one-half cup sugar, one cup milk, one- half cup yeast and flour t<> sponge. "When light add one-half cup butter, worked in with the hands (not kneaded) and flour enough to make it poft so that it may l)e j^atted down into a greased pan to l)ake. Let rise again, jtut little speeks of butter over the top, press them in and sprinkle with sugar and eiimamon. Bake about twenty minutes, and cut in strips an inch wide for breakfast or lunch. Eanter Bread. — One yeast cake, two cups each flour and water; mix and set to rise overnight ; in the morning take six cui)S flour, two cups milk, one and one-half cups currants, one and one-half cups raisins, one-half eup sugar, Imtter the size of a large hen's egg rubbed in '-old, one teas])oon salt ; mix and let rise until light, then mold and put in ])ans until light, then wet top with melted liutter, and bake one hour. Bun.s. — Break one egg into a cu]> and All with sweet milk ; mix with it half cup yeast, half cup butter, one cu]) sugar, enough flour to make a soft dough ; flavor with nutmeg. Let rise till very light, then mold into biscuit with a few currants. Let rise a second time in }ian ; bake and, when nearly done, glaze Avith a little molasses in milk. Use the same cu]i, no matter about the size, for each measure. Currant Buns. — Four pounds light bread dough, eight ounces each of currants, sugar and softened butter. Koll the dough out, strew the currants over it and knead tliem in. Roll out again, then spread on the butter and sugar, cut in bands as wide as the hand and roll them up. Brush them <»ver Avith melted butter so that they will not stick together in the pans and cut ofl' pieces an inch thick. Put in a buttered ]ian just touching each other, let them rise nearly an hour and bake. Brush over with ^ugar and water and dredge with sugar and cinnamon. Hot Cross Buns. — Set a sjionge overnight with three cups sweet milk, one cup yeast and flour enough to make a stiff' batter. In the morning add one-half cup melted butter, one cup sugar, half a nutmeg, salt-s])oon salt and flour enoiigh to roll out. Knead well and set to rise five hours. Boll half an inch thick, cut into round cakes, and when they have risen half an hoiu' make a cross on each on(> Avith a knife and bake. Apple Cal'e. — ^Fake like ciinianjon cake, placing raAv apples cut in eighths over the to](. Avith the butter, cinnamon and sugar. Let lise and bake. Breakfast Cake. — Two tablespoons sugar, tAvo of butter, two eggs, one cup milk, one (scant) quart flour, one teaspoon soda,tAvo of cream tartar; bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. 40 BREAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. Cinnamon Cake. — Wlien yeast bread is ready to knead from tlie sponge, knead and roll out three-fourths of an inch thick, put thin slices of butter on the top, sprinkle with cinnamon, and then with sugar; let riound flour, ten ounces butter, two tables))0(ms sugar, one-half teaspo(m salt, nine tablespoons sour cream ; add salt and sugar to the flour, rub in th<; butter, and knead into a soft dough with the cream; flour the l)oard, turn out th<^ (lough, and l)reak olf small ])ieces, which roll with the hand about nine inches long, and sha))e into cracknels ; rul> over with l)eaten eggs, and sprinkle plentifully with sugar and cinnamon mi.xed : bake on tins in a moderate oven. English Crumpets — One quart warm milk, one teasj»oon salt, half cup yea.^t, flour enough for a not very stirt" batter. When light add half a cup melted butter, let stand twenty minutes, and bake in muffin rings or cups. Cream Crisps. — Put two and a half cups good rich cream, eithei- sweet or sour, in a crock and add gradually four cups unsifted best Graham flour, and half a cup sugar, then take out on V)oard and knead well with one more cup Graham. The (lough wants to be veiy stiff and kneaded thor- oughly. Poll out as thin as for thin cookies, cut with cream cnsps. biscuit cutler, jtriek well and ])lacein ]ians slightly buttered for first panfull, not greasing afterwards, in a rather hut oven, and bake innne- diatcly, putting them in bottom of oven first, and then in the ui>pcr oven to brown. If wanted "extra nice," sift the flour (using about one-eighth more flour.) The quantity of sugar can lie in(n-eased or diminished, l)Ut for health's sake this is sufficient, or even less. Prop- erly' made, they will be crisp and delicious. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 41 Hominy Crumpets. — One cup boiled hominy, two cups milk, one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons melted butter, four table- spoons yeast, four cups flour, or enough to make a good batter, and a little salt Avell beaten together. Let rise six hours or until very light. Then add one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolved in a little hot water, put into muffin tins, let stand fifteen minutes and then bake quickly. To l)c eaten hot. For rice crumpets substitute one cup rice for the hominy. Royal Crumpets. — Knead four tablespoons melted butter, three eggs and one cup sugar into three cups raised dough. Bake twenty minutes in buttered tins and serve Avith sugar. Com Dodgers. — To one quail coin meal add a little salt and a small tablespoon lard ; scald with boiling water and beat hard for a few minutes ; drop a large spoonful in a well-greased ])an. The bat- ter should Ik' thick enough, to just flatten on the bottom, leaving them quite high in the center. JJake in a hot oven. Gems. — One tablespoon each sugar and butter, one egg, one cup milk, two teaspoons baking-powder, flour to stiflen ; beat sugar and butter to a cream iind ailc makes one dozen gems. Corn Gems. — Two cups each corn meal, flour ^ and sweet milk, two eggs, three heaping teaspoons ^^^^ baking-powder, one-half cup each butter and sugar, and a little salt. Put into hot gem pans. Good Graliarti Gems. — Thr^c cu]>s sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one of salt, one tablespoon brown sugar, one of melted lard, one beaten egg ; to the egg add the milk, then the sugar and salt, then tlie Graham flour (with the soda mixed in), together Avith the lard ; make a stift' batter, so that it will drop, not pour, from tlie spoon. Have gem-pans very hot. grease, fill and bake fifteen min- utes in a hot oven Sweet Mill' Gems. — ]>eat one egg well, add a pint new milk, a little salt and Graham flour until it will drop ofl' the spoon nicely ; heat and l)Uttcr the gem-pans before dropping in the dough ; l)ake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Oat Meal Gems. — One cu]> cooked oat meal, or soaked over- night, in one cup water. Add one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one cup flour, a little salt, and bake in gem-pans. Try one first and if too moist or sticky add more flour. Wheaten Gems. — Mix one teaspoon baking-powder and a little salt into one pint flour ; add to the beaten yolks of two eggs one tea- cup sweet milk or cream, a piece of butter (melted) half the size of an egg. the flour with baking-))owd(r and salt mixed, and the well 42 i;i;kaki A>'r and tka ( ake.«. bt-atoii wliitc- of" tin- two eggs. Lcat well, liakc inmiediately in gciii- l>iins in a liot ovvi), and take out and send to the table imniediateh'. Alabama Johnny-Cake. — Cook a ]»int of rice till tender, add a taldcspoon Initter ; when eold add two Ijeaten eggs and one pint meal, and when mixed spread on an oaken board and bake by tip- ping the board upl)clorc the lire-])lace. When done on one r;idetiirn over. Tli(^ ilough should be sprt-iid li:di' an inch thick. ■lolinny-Cah'c. — Two eggs, one cu]i sugar, one auM one-halt" ot" corn meal, two-thirds cup melted butter. -f»r lard, two euiis eacdi soiu- milk anfl Hour, two teas])oons each saleratus and sail. Johnny- Cakf. — Two-tliii'ds tcas[»ot)n soda, three taldespoons sugar, one teaspoon cream tartar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, six tablespoons Indian meal, three tablespoons tioiu'. and a little salt. This makes a tliin hatter. CoDi Mnfiins. — ()n(> (juart silted Indian meal, a lieaj)ing tea- s]toon butter, one (piart milk, a salt-s]>oon salt, a third ctip yea.lespoon ot' mohisses : let it rise ibur or live hours, and Itake in niiinin-rings. Cit}')) .]fi///i!n..-i. — Two cu])s coi'u njeal. one-halt" cup Hour, one- foiu'th eup sugar, two eggs, butter size ot" a walnut, on(^ teaspoon salt, two tea-s|)oons baking powder ami enouLrh sweet milk to make i|uite thin. r»ake in gi-m pans. Cream Mnfiiiin. — Ueat the yolks (jt'three eggs with one teaspoon salt and stir in a half-pint sweet .cream adding a half-pint of tlour and lastly the whites of the eggs l)eaten to a stiff froth. Bake in buttered gem pans in ijuick oven from ten to lift(>en minutes. Graham MniHns. — ()n(^ egg. hea))ing tablespoon l>utter. one and a half cups milk, little salt, one t<'aspoon baking powder. (Iraham Hour to stiffen. Put in slightly heatcvl gem tins and bake. Grahain MiiMn}<. — Twd cups soui- milk, iwo tablespoons brown sugar, a little salt, on(» t-<'aspoon soda, sutlicient Graham tlour to make moderately stitf. If not convenient to use sour milk, use sweet, adding eream ol" t:iit;n-. Indian Mufiina. — Two cups Indian nirn! -( -ililcd with as little water as ]>ossible, one cup flour, one eui> sw(>(>t milk, one tablespoon butter, half <-up sugar, one small cup yeast. Let rise h. overnight and bake in riiigs fni- breakfeast. liicc Mnfffn.s. — One cup cold boiled rice, lu.i eggs, one (|u;iit milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon salt, one i)int flour and a te:ispof)n linking powihr. 15KEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 43 nice Flour MuHins. — One and one-half cups rice flour, two cups wheat flour, three teaspoons baking powder, one Dint sweet milk, one egg, a little salt and small j^iece of butter. Rue MuMns. — One and one-half cups rye flour, same of wheat flour, one egg, one scant teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon soda, made into a batter witli sweet milk. Sour Milk Mufiins. — Stir one egg into one pint sour ruilk with- out boiling. Melt a teaspoon of butter and a teaspoon salcratus in a tabl(>spoon of hot water. Salt and make a thick batter with wheat flour, iK'at well, drop in moderatelv hot muffin tins, filling them half full. Wheat j\Iuifins. — Mix one pint milk, two eggs, three table- spoons yeast, and salt-spoon of salt, with flour enough to make a stiff batter; let rise four or five hours or mix at night for breakfast and I-kUvC in muftin-rings in a hot oven, for about ten minutes. Thir: i-(Hi]>e may be made with Graham flour, l)y adding two tablespoons of molasses, and is excellent. Pocket- Book is. — Warm one quart new milk, add one cup butter or lard, four tablespoons sugar, and two well-beaten eggs ; stir in flour enough to make a moderately stiff sponge, add a small cup of yeast, and set in a Avarm ])lace to rise, which will take three or four hours ; then mix in flour enough to make a soft dough and let rise again. When well risen, dissolve a lump of soda size of a bean in a s])oon of milk, work it into the dough and roll into sheets one-half inch in thickness ; sjjread with thin layer of butter, cut into squares and fold over, pocket-book shape ; put on tins or in pans to ri.se for a little Avhile, when they Avill be fit for the oven. In summer the s])onge can be made uj) in the morning, and rise in time to make for tea. In cool weather it is best to set it overnight. Corn Pones. — Scald one pint corn meal with a quart of milk, stir in six eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon flour, two table- s])()ons Ixdcing powder, and a little salt. Bake in buttered cups, in which send to table that they may be turned out and eaten hot Avith butter and syrup. Corn Pojy-overs. — Stir into one ])int scalded sweet milk one large cup corn meal, a piece of butter half the size of an egg, and a little salt. Add three Avell beaten eggs the last thing; no soda. Pop-overs — Four well 1)eaten eggs, four cups each of sweet milk and flour, butter size of a walnut, pinch of salt ; beat thoroughly to- gether and ])ake in hot gem pans. A table.'^poon sugar may be add- ed if liked, but very nice Avithout. Breakfast Puifs. — If the AA'heat bread is light enough for the 44 BRKAKIAST A.\U TKA CAKKS. ov(?n at breakfast time, liave ready some hot lard in a deep kettle : with the tliuinl) and two fin^'crs jiull np some of th(> dongli quite lliin, and cut it in two or tln-ee inches in length; as these pieces are cut, druj) them in the hud and fry hke douj.dinuts. At tal)l(' 1 hey are eaten like biscuit ; they may iilso he served in a vegetable ilisji with a dressing of hot cream, seasoned with pep])er and salt. Xmis Piiff^'s (foi- lea). — Rinse a sam-epan in wat<,T to lessen risk of Ijurning and heat one ])int of new milk with a i^^O|^B^|^ utter to boiling, stir in smoothly a ^^P|JP^H^ iialf pound of flour and when cool beat in the yt)lks of i"" i*"'- nine eggs, adding the whites ])eaten to a stift' froth last. Bake in gem ])ans or cups, half lilled, twenty minutes in hot oven. BreaJxfant RolLs. — Mix the dough in the evening, according to directions in the recipe for ''Ih-ead Raised Once ;" add a table-spoon of butter, and set where it will be a little warm until morning; cut off pieces, and carefully shape them into rolls of the desired size by rolling them Ix'tween the hands, but do not knead them; di)) the sides of each into drawn butter wlien they are shaped, and ])lace them in the l)aking ])an (the butter prevents their stii-king together when baked, and they will be smooth aiid i)erfect Avhen sei)arated). Rub tlx'm over th(> top with drawn butter, and dust a IHtle tine salt over the to}); set in a warm ])lace, and they will quickly rise ready for baking. These aic delieious. Cinnamon Bolls. — Take a ])ieee of raised biscuit dough, add a little sugar, roll out to one-fourth an inch tliick, spread with butter, sugar and cinnamon, roll up as you would jelly cake and cut oft" ])ieces about lialf an inch thick, ])Ut on buttered tins to rise and when light ])ut a little butter, sugar and cinnamon on The top of each and bake. Cofi'ce Bollf<. — ^^'ork into a cpiart of bread dough a rounded taltlespoon of butter, and a half tca-cuji of white sugar; add some dried currants (well washed and dried in the oven), sift some flour and sugar over them, work into the other ingr(.'dients, make into snndl rolls, dip into melted butter, place in tins, let rise a short time and bake. Corn Bo/ls. — One ])int of corn meal, two tablespoons sugar one teas])oon salt, one ]»int boiling milk ; stir all together and hst stand till cool. Add three eggs well beaten, and bake in gem-pans, Dinnet' Bolls. — Make dough as directed in recipe for "Finger Rolls," make into balls as large as a medium-si/.ed hen's egg. )»lace on a Avell-Houred board, flour a small rolling-pin (three- ijnarters of an inch in diameter), press down so as nearly to divide BKICAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 45 e;u'h ball of (l(»u«ili in the center, place in baking-pans so they will not touch each other, grease the space made l)y the rolling pin with melted butter, let them rise until light, and bake. These rolls are so small and bake so (piickly, that they have the delicious sweet taste of the wheat. Some grease the hanils with butter while making the rolls. Bread dough, l)y adding the other ingredients, may be used for these rolls. Fxig Rolls. — To three well beaten eggs add one cup each of sugar,'yeast and lard or butter, and a pint of sweet milk. Sponge at night, inix in the morning, adding a little soda ; roll them as pie crust, spread Avith lard, roll \\\> and bake. Kvery-Doy Rolls. — Take a ])iece of day, when molded out the last time, about enough for a small loaf, spread out a little, add one egg, two tablespoons sugar and tln-ee-fourtlis cup lard; add a little flour Everv-Dav roin. and a small teaspoon soda if the least bit sour; mix well, let rise, mold into rolls or biscuits, set to rise again, and they will be ready for the oven in twenty or thirty minutes. Finger Rolls. — Thret^ and one-half cups sweet milk, one cup butter and lard mixed in equal proportions, one cup potato yeast, flour enough to make into dough. Let rise overnight; in the morn- ing add one beaten egg ; kneail thoroughly and let rise again. With the hands make into balls as large as a small hen's egg, then roll between the hands, or on a floured board, into long rolls, about four in- ches long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, or size of the second finger ; place in even rows in the pans, not too close together, or in roll pan. brushing lightly with the white of an egg. Or, to bread dough add half cup sugar and a cup butter, let rise and I'oll as above. French Rolls. — Peel six medium-sized mealy potatoes, boil in two (juarts of wat^'r, press and drain both potatoes and wat(>r through a colander; when cool enough so as not to scald, add flour to make a thick batter, beat well, and when lukewarm add one-half cup pota- to y(!ast. ]\[ake this sponge early in the morning, and when light turn into a bread pan, add a teaspoon salt, half cup lard, and flour enough for a soft dough ; mix up and set in a warm, even temperature ; when risen, Freuch roh Pau. knead down and ])lace again to rise, rej)eating this process five or six times; cut ins-mall pieces and mold on the l>read-boardin rolls al)out one inch thick by five long; roll in melted butter or SAvect lard and place in Avell-greased baking pans (nine inches long by five Avide Finger Rolls. Let rise until light, bake delicatelv, and glaze bA'' -4() uuKAKrAsr and tea cakes. and two and a lialf in deptli, makes a convenient Bizcd pan, which hoklsfiitcon of these rolls ; or. if twice the width, j)Ut in two rows); press the rolls closely together so that they will only he ahout half an inch in Avidth. Let rise a short time and hake twenty minutes in a liot oven ; if the top hrowns too rapidly, cover with paper. These rolls, if properly made, are very white, light and tender. Or. make rolls larger, and just hefore putting them in the oven, cut dee])ly across each one with a sharp knife. This will make the cleft roll; so famous anicng French cooks. French liolh. — Vox about sixty split rolls, three large cups water or milk; one large cup yeast; heaping tablespoon salt; two ounces each sugar and lard or butter; four pounds flour. I^et sponge at eight in the morning v.'ith half the flour, adding sugar and butter, then beat it again about one. add the salt and make up stiff dough with the rest of the flour. Knead the dough on the table, alternately drawing it U)) in round shajtc and jtressing the pulled-over edges into the middle and then j.rcssing it out to a flat sheet, folding over and pressing out again. Brusli the clean i)an over with the least touch of melted lard or liutti'r — which prevents sticking and waste of dough — place the dough in and brush that over. too. Where economy reigns the strictest, a little warm water in a cu|t and teaspoon lard melted in it will do for Ibis l)rusbing over and insures the truest saving and smoothest bread, htt the dough rise till four, then spread dough on table by ])ressing out with the knuckles till it is a thii\ uneven sheet. Double it over on itself and press the two edges together all around first. This imi»risons air in the knuckle holes in large masses. Then ]»oun(l and press the dough with the fists till it has become a tliin shei't again, with the inclos(Hl air distri))Uted in bubbles all through it. Fold over and re- ])eat this process several times, then roll it ui>; it will l)e like FrenchRou.. an air cushion. Let it stand a few minutes before making into plain rolls, cleft rolls, or loaves. Persons in ]»ractice find it quickest to pull off pieces of doUgh of right size and mold them up instantly. Others cutoff strips of dough, roll them in lengths and cut these up m roll sizes ; mold them up round with no flour on the board and only a (\\\A t)n the hands, and ])lace them in regular rows on the tabU — the smoothest side down : take a little rolling pin — it looks like a ]tii'ce of new broom handU' — and roll a depression across the middle of each ; brush these over with the least possible melted hud or but- ter, using a tin-bound varnish brush for the jmrfxtse ; doul>le the rolls, the two buttered sides together hs seen in the cut above, and place them in the pans diagonally, with plenty of room so they will not tfuicli : lii-ush o\-er the to])s of the rtjlls in the pans with the least BKEAKFAST AND TKA CAKES. 47 possible melted lard again, and set them to rise about an liour — less or more according to temperature. Bake in a hot oven, about ten min- utes ; brush over with clear water when done. Graham. Bolls. — Mix thoroughly with a fepoon one quart each of Graham and white flour, one and a half pints lukewai'm water, one gill each of molasses and yeast, two ounces drippings or butter, two teaspoons salt. Let rise, drop in Ijuttered roll pans and bake. For breakfast mix at night. Italian Rolls.— .\ ])ound of liread dough, quarter-pound soft- ened butter ; WM:)rk the butter well into the (h)Ugh, and roll out about half an inch thick ; cut into stri])S nearly an inch wide and seven or eight inches long ; sift over them fine corn meal, place them apart on a buttered ' I'taiiaa rou pau. l)an, and when light bake in a quick oven. Oatmeal Rolls. — To one cup oatmeal mush add half cup sweet milk, thicken with white flour till stiff enough to roll, roll out one inch thick, cut out with a cutter four inches long by one and a half inches wide. Sprinkle a ])an with corn meal, place in rolls and bake at once in a hot oven from half to three quarters of an hour. Parker House Rolls. — Rul) one-half tablespoon of butter, and one-half tablespoon of lard into two quarts of sifted flour; into a Avell in the middle ])()ur one pint of cold boiled milk, and add one- half cup f>f yeast, one-half cup sugar, and a. little salt. If wanted for tea, rub the floiu' and Inittcr, and l)oil the milk, and cool it the night before; add sugar, yeast and salt, and turn all into the flour, but do not stir. Let stand overnight ; in the morning stir up, knead and let rise till near tea time; mold and let rise again, and bake (|uickly. To mold, cut with cake-cutter; put a little melted butter on one-half and lap nearly over on the other half. Place them in the pan about three-quarters of an inch apart. Ri))f/ Roll.^. — ]^Likc dough as for Finger Rolls, roll to the same thickness in strij^s eight or nine inches in length and pinch together in a ring with about three inches space in the center. Be careful not to have the rolls of dough too large, as they will rise. SnoioiJake Rolls. — :Make like pie crust, roll pretty nearly as thin, cut into narrow strips, roll and twist them in the hands, pinch the ends together and 1)ake in hot oven ten minutes. Eat with honey. Vienna Rolls.- — Have ready in a bowl a tablespoon of butter or lard, made soft 1)y warming a little, and stirring with a spoon. Add to_ one quart of unsifted flour tAvo hea]iing teaspoons baking powder; mix and sift thoroughly together, and place in a bowl with 48 i;i;kakkast am> tka « aki; liuttt'f. 'r;ik(> iiiorc or k>.~ pwcti milk ;is may ho nccossarv to form :i (l(.ut:li i>t" u-ual stitl'iios, accdrdinjx to tho Hour (about thrie-fourth.< (jf a ])iiil ). ))Ut into the milk lialt" a teaspoon of salt, and then stir it into till- ilnur. itc. with a spoon, formiri*^ tlic dou^ili. which turn out on a hoard and knead sullieiently to make smooth. Rollout lialf an in( h thick, and cut with a large round cutter; fold eaeh one over to iVuni a halt round, wetting a little between the folds to make them stick together ; plact' on buttered ]»ans. so as not to touch, wash over on top with milk tn gi\-e them a gloss, anrl liake immediately in a hot oven about twenty minutes. It will do them no liai-m to stand half an houi- before l-aking. if it is desired. Vienna Iiolls. — Two pounds flour: two f-uj)s milk; one-half cake compressed yeast. s or bands as wide across as hand is long. Cut these again into triangulai- j.icees for rolls, not equal sidid but long and narrow triangles. IJoll these triaiiguhir ]»ii-ces up. beginning at the broad bottom end. and the ]>oint w ill eomi* U]) in the middle, and there will be a spiral mark around fi-oni end 1o end. (iive each roll a few turns under the hands to smooth it ane in the pan- aI>out li.dt' an hour ami bake about ten minutes. Wiihlini/ Sa))(hi'ifJ, ItoJIs. — T.ate in the e\cning make a rather stiff pi'tato sponge (see (liiection^ under •" Bread-Making"' ). and in the morning mix in as mueb l1our as will make a sot't dough, kneaing too light : mold into connnon-si/.ed bjaves. place in xonr drip]>ing-)ian to i-i^e, and bake very caret'ully, so as to secure the ver\' sli'_dite~t Iirown crust pos^ilile. On taking out of the oven, roll in a cl(>tb tiubtly wrung out f)f \\:»ter, with a large Im-ad-blankct t'olded and wiapped arciuntl all. Let cool thioe or four hour.-, ent lengthwise of tin- lo.af (not using the outsid<' piece), rir-t spreading lightly witli •_'">. d -weet l^utter. tlien entting iu slices BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 49 not more than a. quarter of an inch, or just as thin as possible, using for this purpose a very thin, sliarp knife; hiy on cold boiled ham cut in very tliin shavings (no matter if in small pieces), roll up very slowly and carefully, and ])lace where it will not unroll. Treat each sandwich in the same manner, always spreading the bread with but- ter before cutting. If by chance the bread is baked with too hard a crust, cut off a thin shaving of the brownest part very smoothly be- fore making into sandwiches. These sandwiches are truly delicious if properly made, but they require great care, experience, and good judgment. Served on an oblong platter, piled in pyramid style, row upon row, they will resemble nicely rolled dinner napkins. They must be made' and served the same day. The best bread for use for these rolls is a sort of steamed bread made us follows : When bread has raised in a single loaf pan, insert it into an ordinary dripping-pan. ,-i leaving the other ])an still over the loaf. Bake in this way. This makes a tuugher l>read than ordinary, which can be rolled at any time. Winter Bolls. — Put throe quarts flour into a large crock or jar, scald one quart buttermilk, add one cup lard, and pour all over the flour, Ideating it up well ; then add one quart cold water, stir and add one-half ciqi ])otato yeast, or one cup brewer's ; beat in w(^ll and set in a Avarm ])lace to rise overnight. In the morning add salt and flour enough to make a moderately stiff dough ; set in a warm place to rise, and when risen, knead down and set to rise again. Tliis time knead down and ])lace in a large stone crock or bowl, covered tightly with a tin pan to i)revent the surface from drying, and set away in a cool place. When needed, turn out on a bread-board, cut off a piece as large as you wish to use, roll out to the thickness of ordinary soda biscuit, cut, and ])ut in the oven to bake immediately. 8et away the rest of the dough as before, and it Avill keep a w(>ck in winter, and is very convenient for hot breakfast- rolls. Boll Glaze. — Take yolks of two eggs and twice tlieir bulk in water; put on with brush wlu'ii rolls or bread are half baked, return to uvcn and finish baking. Busl'. — One pint milk, three eggs, one tea-cup each of butter and sugar, and one coffee-cup })otato yeast ; thicken with flour, and sponge overnight ; in the morning stir down, let rise, and stir down again ; when it rises make into a loaf, and let rise again ; then roll out like soda biscuit, cut and put in pans, and, when light, bake care- fully. Or when baking take four cu})s dough, one-half cup butter, one cup sugar, three eggs ; mix thoroughly, adding enough flour to mold easily ; let rise, make into rather high and narrow biscuit, let rise again, rub the tops with a little sugar and water, then sprinkle over them dry sugar. Rake twenty minutes. 50 BRKAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. Baking Powder Ruak: — Mix tlic beaten yolks of three eggs with a half cup butter and one eiip pngar. Make a dough of the con- siptencv of bread dough of a ([uart of sifted flour wot with water, in which two ]if'a]>ing teaspoons of baking powder and one of salt lias been well mixed. Then add the eggs, butter and sugar, form into little eakes, rub the tops with sugar and water. s])rinkle dry sugar over them and bake innnediately. Faneij RuKk. — Break an egg into a cup. l>eat light and fill up with milk, add half cup sponge, tlu'ee-fourths cup sugar, one-fom-tli eu)) butt(>r, enough Hour for soft dougli and a little cinnamon. Knead well, let rise, knead again, form into small rolls with buttered fin- gers and i)lace in deep pan. bet them get very light before l)aking. Lebanon Ra.sk. — One cup mashed jjotatoes, one of sugar, one of home-made yeast, three eggs ; mix together; when raised light, add half cup l)utter or lard, and flour to make a soft dough, and, when (piite light, mold into small eakes, and let them rise again befoi-e baking. If wanted for tea, set about nine a. m. Marhhheafl Rusk. — Warm six ounces butter, two of sugar and half eu]i milk, or cream, with one pound dough, mix well, beat in yolks of ten eggs, two at a time, and add gradually one and one- fourth i)ounds Hour. Knead, set to rise, in three hours knead again, let rise, knead yet again, and finish as French Rolls, page 4(5. The dough may be Havored with vanilla, vanilla and rc^se mixed, orange, nutmeg, or lenion rind and little juice. Add raisins, currants and citron if liked. Southern Egg Bread. — Two cui)s white Indian meal, one cup cold boiled rice, three well beaten eggs, one tablesj^oon mt^lted but- ter, two and a half cuj)s milk, or enough for a soft batter, one t(>a- spoon salt and a pinch soda. Stir the beaten eggs into the milk, then the meal, salt and l>utter, and lastly of all tlie rice. Heat up well from the bottom twu or three minutes, and bake quickly in a round shallow pan. Scones. — Rub one-fourth pound l>uttei' and enough sweet milk to make a smooth past(> into one cpiart sifted flour and two heaping teaspoons baking ])owder. l\oll out to one-fourth inch thickness, cut into triangular cakes each side al)OUt four inches long, lay on buttered tin, and b;ike in hot oven. M'hen half done brush over with sweet milk. Sally Lnnn. — Sift into a jxm a pound and a lialf flour, put in two ounces butter warmed in a ])int new milk, one saltspoon salt, three eggs well beaten, and two tablespoons good yeast. Mix well together, and put the whole into a tin ])an well greased, and set to rise all night. Bake a little brown in a quick o\en. \\'arm the milk and butter over water until the butter is melted ; beat the eggs in a BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 51 two-quart tin pail, and if the milk is not hot pour it over them. Stir in half the flour, then add the yeast, stirring thoroughly with the rest of the tlour. Let rise overnight. Some add two tahlespoons sugar and use a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar instead of the yeast. TriHefi. — Three-quarters eup cream (milk may l>e used with a teaspoon butter), three eggs beaten separately, scant teaspoon baking powder, pinch each salt and cinnamon ; flour to roll out ; roll as thin as can be, cut into two-inch squares, drop in hot lard prepared as described in doughnut preface ; place on brown paper to drain and sprinkle with pulverized sugar ; or add more milk, making batter a little thicker than for pancakes, press through a meringue bag as de- scribed in confectionery preface int 3 the hot lard in rings or any shapes wished. When done drain and sprinkle as above. Corn Meal WaMes- — To the beaten yolks of three eggs, add one quart of sour milk or butter-milk, corn meal to make a batter a lit- tle thicker than for ])ancakes, one teaspoon salt, one of soda dissolved in a little warm water, then the well ])eaten Avliites. F'or dressing put on the stove a half <'up cream, a tablespoon butter, and two of sugar ; when hot, put two tablespoons on each waffle when placed in the dish to serve. Nice also for buckwheat cakes. QuicJi Wa^es. — Two pints sweet milk, one cup butter (melted), sifted flour to make a soft batter; add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, then the beaten whites, and lastly (just before baking) four teaspoons baking powder, beating very hard and fast for a few min- utes. These ai-e very good with four or five eggs, but much better with more. Raised Waives. — One quart floui\ one pint sweet, lukewarm milk, two eggs, a tablesj^oon melted butter, teaspoon salt, half tea- cup good yeast. Rice Wa/^e.^t. — Boil half a pint rice and let it get cold, mix with it one-fourth pound butter and a little salt. Sift in it one and a half pints tlour, beat five eggs separately, stir the yolks together with one quart milk, add whites beaten to a stiff froth, beat hard, and bake at once in walfle irons Wa/^es. — Take one quart flour, teaspoon salt, tablespoon melt- ed butter, and milk enough to make a thick batter. Mix thorough- ly. Add two well-l)eaten eggs, and one measure each of acid and soda (or two hca])ing teaspoons acid and one moderately heaping teaspoon soda) of Ilorsford's Bread Prej)aration ; stir well, and bake at once in waffle irons. WaMes, ( Without Yeast or Soda). — Melt two ounces butter in one pint milk, and when cooled stir in a half teaspoon salt and a 52 RHPIAKFAST AXD TEA CAKES. scant pint and a liall' flour. P.rat wliites and yolks of three eggs separately, ^^tirring in tlie yolks and then the whites very lightly. Tr«7/>/'.s-. — One pint sifted flour, saltspoon salt, one ounce lard or butter, white of one egg. and sweet milk enough to make dough to roll out. JJf-at with a rolling ]iin tor twenty minutes or longer. Kverv stroke ndds sweetness to the Avnfers. Form dough into balls size of ])igeon"s egg and loll to size of a saueei'. or r/.v t/tin aft ca7i be. Sprinkle Hour over tins and bake with care. Sweet Wafers. — One ])int flour, one cuj) sugar, three eggs, one tables]>oon butter, fla\or with K'niou, mix into batttr same as for cake, and bake in wafer irons. Wal/n'fs. — Sift one (|uart of flour, take one-fourth of it. and add rather more than half a cake compressed yeast, diss()lveut it in a warm place ; when it is double its size make a hole in the center of the rest of the flour, and put in it a teasj)oon each salt and sugar, two tablespoons tepid water, three-quarters pound butter and four eggs ; beat well, then add another egg, l»eat again, and add another, and so on until i^i-yon have been used; the ])aste must be soft, but not spread ; if too firm, add another egg. Now mi.x; this paste thoroughly with the s])onge, beating until tlie paste leaves the sides of the 1)0^1, then ])Ut it in a ci-ock and cover; let stand four hours in a warm place, turn it out on a board, spread it (tnd donhlc it fovr times, return it to the ci-ock, and let it rise again two hours; repeat the former process of doubling and spreailing. and ]>ut it in a very cold place for two hours, or until Avanted for use. Mold in any form liketl, l)ut a ])referred way is to make two pieces, one as large again as the other; form the large one into a ball, make a deep de- })ression in the center, on Avhich i)lace the smaller ball, i)ressing it gently in; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp knife, and bake a beautiful goUlen brown. These A\'alnuts are the same as the renowned French Brioc/ie. Wrimarlies. — Tak»^ one quart bread di>ugli, or make a sponge with a ])int flour and a yi^ist-eake soaked in half a ])int warm water or milk, then add another pint flour ; when light add four tablespoons butter, a little sugar, and two eggs: work well. If l)read dt)Ugh is used, dredge in a little n)ore flom- on account of eggs, Init not verj/ iinieh ; let rise, and when lighter than for bread, ]>roceed as in making rolls In- pushing it down with flst till not larger than when ]»ut in pan ; let rise and again ])Ush down but not so nnich as before : let rise, and jiush down again ; then tui'n dough on molding boaid lightly floured, ntll as ])ie-crust into ]U(>ces six inches Sijuarcand iiuarter of an inch thick, make two shar]), <|uick cuts across from corner to corner, and there Avill be from each st for these purix^ses alone. Whenboile«l thick like starch i)Ut m a large jar, cover, set in a pan in a warm (not hot) i)lace, and stir down as it fei-ments, adding yeast as given in recipe, Avhen milk warm, ^^'hcn it is risen sufliciently. Avhich will ])e in about a day, a tliick wliite scum rises to the top ; then place in a stone or glass jar with a close fitting cover, or in a jug, on the eel- o4 YEAST. lar bottom, in the rofri<^forator, or some other cool \)\ave. The jar or jug f^houkl l.)(' fillctl to the brim, and the cork i-hould be loose for first twelve hours, tlien tightened j»erfeetly. Always shake the jug before taking out yeast for use. Extreme heat or freezing kills the phmt, Avhicli grows uhile fermentation goes on. The jar or jug, when emptied, should be washed first in cold water, then in soaj) and water, and afterward in hot water, which may be allowed to stand a half hour, when pour out. Let jar cool and it is ready for use. The cork or cover needs the same careful attenticm. Many times the yeast is spoiled by want of caie and neatness in washing the yeast jar. Use dried or pressed, never fresh hojis. Dried hops keep good a year, but pressed retain their strength longer, and eith- er should be kept in a paper sack in a cool, dry ]tlace. Select hops showing the pollen dust, and alwai/s boil them without sack, as sug- gested above. One pint potato yeast, one tea-cup hop yeast, a piece compressed yeast size of a walnut, and one yeast cake, or two-thirds tea-cup yeast crumbs are equal in strength. Well made yeast cakes will keep good if jmt in a tin l)ox in a dry ])lac(' from two to three months. AVhen yeast cakes that have been put to soak are <|uite soft mash them entirely and stir tlicm thoroughly witli the s])onge. Their odor and taste is sometinu s lliought to be given to llic brea'd, rendering their use objectionable ; Ijut if ])ro]»erly used one cannot l)erceive any dift'erence between bread made Avith them and with soft yeast. A difierence of opinion exists m regard to the use ol cooked and raw i)otatoes for yeast. Individually we ])refer the grated i)ota- toes, but others use them boiled with good success. Boded i)otatoes should be mashed fine and i)Ut through a colander befoic using for yeast, and raw ones must be jK'cled and grated into a crock contain- ing suflicient water to cover them, Avhich ])revents their darkening and so discoloring the yeast and bread. Some grate the ])otatoes with a quantity of water, letting stand until they settle to tlie bot- tom and then pouring oil' the water. Df'f/ l^eaff. — Boil two large ]totatoes and a handful hoj»s (the latter in a bag) in tbice ])ints water ; when dom', take out ]iutatoes, mash well, add one ])int ilour, and ])our the boding lioj) water over all ; ])eat well together, adding onetables]>oon salt, one of ginger, and one-half cu]) sugar; when lukewarm add onecu]) good yeast and let stand two days (or only c»ne day if very warm Aveatbev), stirring YEAST. 55 flown frequently ; add ,G;ood white corn meal until thick enough to make into cakes about half an inch in thickness ; place to dry in the shade (never expose to the sun or to stove heat) where the air Aviil ]>ass freely, so as to dry them as soon as possible, as the fermentation goes on as long as there is any moisture ; turn the cakes frequently, breaking them up somewhat, or even crumbling, so they will dry out evenly and quickly ; when thoroughly dried put in a paper sack and keep in a dry place. A small cake will make a sponge sufficient to bake five or six ordinary loaves. Y'easi. — Pare and boil four ordinary sized potatoes in two quarts of water, ]-K)iling at the same time in a separate vessel a good handful hops. When potatoes are done, mash fine, pass through a colander, and add, after straining, the water in which the hops were 1)oiled ; put into this one cup white sugar and one-half cup salt, and add suflicient water to make one gallon; when cold add one cup good yeast, let stand in a Avarm place for a few hours, until it will " sing " on being stirred, when it is ready for us(\ Keep covered in a cellar or cool place. Favnierfi^ T'enfif. — A yeast whicb is especially good for tlie use of farmers, and others who use a great dea' of bread and bake fre- quently, is made as follows : Take a handfnl unpresscd or two ounces pressed bops (those showing tbe })ollen dust arc best), ])ut them in one quart water with four ordinary potatoes, and boil till the potatoes are well cooked ; mash all together, and strain through a linen strainer, add fiour enough to make a thick battel-, a teaspoon salt, a tablespoon pulverized ginger and half a cup sugar ; set it back on the fire and let it come to a boil, stirring constantly, and set by to cool ; when only milk-warm add a cup old yeast, or two cakes grocers' dry bop yeast, or half a cup bakers'. This will be light in two or three hours. Tbe yeast may l)e made perpetual, by saving a cup when started, but it nmst be kept from freezing in winter and in a cool place in sunnner. Tliis is a good mode, and acceptable to all who prefer yeast bread. Hop Yeast. — Place a handful hops in two (juarts cold water, boil slowly for a half hour, strain boiling hot on one pint Hour and one tablespoon salt (gradually at first in order to mix smoothly) : when lukewarni add a half pint yeast, and set in a warm place to rise. When light, cover and keep in a cool place. IJqlxtnhig Yea&i. — To a half-cu]> warm water add a pinch each salt and sugar and stir in corn meal until quite tliick. Put in a warm place overnight, or stirred in the morning and kept warm it will be light in a few hours. Put about two ta))lespoons of this lightning into your rising and it Avill be up in an hour. The yeast will not look very light but will l)e vci-y porous. Poiato Yeast. — P)Oil one cup bops in two fpiarts water fifteen 56 YEAST. minutcp. "While hops are boiling grate five good-sized Irish potatoes ixa directed in yeast preface, add one cup Avhite sugar and one table- spoon each salt and ginger. Pour this mixture into the bright tin yeast pan and strain the hop water upon it. Cook from five to ten minutes, stirring occasionally, wlien it will boil up thick like starch ; some do not boil the mi.Kture. sini])ly turn the boiUng hop water over it ; turn into a jar. and when just tc])id in summer, or quite warm in winter, add one-half pint good yeast (always save some to start with) ; set jar in a large tin |)an. and as often as it rises stir down until fermeiitation ceases, wheu it will be quite thin. Cover closely, set awav in a cool place, and it will keep two Aveeks. When yeast smells sour but does not taste sour it is still good ; if it has uo smell it is dead. One cup will make si.x good-sized loaves. Potato-Ball Yeast.— V>o\\ and m;ish four or five medium-sized potatoes, or enough to nuike about a pint, add scant tablespoon eaeli salt, white sugar and when cool a half package compressed yeast, or if vou cannot get the f^ompressed, take half cake dry yeast, soak in as little water as possible and add ; mold into a ball, lay away where it will not fieeze ; after a day prepare potatoes in same way except that instead of adding yeast when cool, add first ball, work together thoroughly and mold into two balls of same size. These are ready for use any time after twelve hours, and one will be sufficient to raise four ordinary loaves. Set sponge overnight, dissolving the ])otato ball in about a quart lukewarm Avater, which will be sufiicient Avet- ting. A sup])ly of this yeast can be kept on hand by preparing po- tatoes and making a new ball as above directed the day before baking. Potato Yeast Without Hops. — Four good-sized potatoes peeled, boiled and mashed, four tables]-)ouns white sugar, one of ginger, one (if salt, two cups tlour : ])our over this a ])int boiling water, and beat till all the lumi)s disapix-ar. .After it has cooled, add to it one cup good yeast, and set away to rise ; when risen put in glass or stone jar. cover and set away in a cool i)lace. Yeast without Yeast. — Tliis requires no yeast to raise it, and has been called the "best yeast in the world." Monday morning, boil one pint hops in two g.allons water for half an hour, strain into a crock and let tlie li(iuid beccune lukewarm, add two even teaspoons salt and half a i)int l)est ])rown sugar; mix half a ])int fiour smooth with some of the liquor and stir all well together. On Wednesday, add three pounds ])otatoes boiled and mashed, stir Avell and let stand till Thursday, then strain and put in stone jugs, but for the first day or two leave the corks quite Ioosp. Stir the yeast occasionally while making, and keep near the fire. It should be made two weeks before using, and will keep any length of time, improviug Avith age. Keep it in a cool i^lace and shake the jug before ]iouring from it. but Avith the cork out, holding the palm of the hand over the mouth to pre- vent the escape t)f the y(>ast. , TOA.-otatoes; when done, pour potatoes and water upon half quart flour in pan, mash to a smooth paste, add more hoiling water if needed, one tal)lespoon sugar and thin M'ith ice water till like thick cream. When tepid, add half pint yeast and finish as directed in general directions. Some claim that grated raw potato yeast can in winter be frozen Folid and kept so, tliawing as wantees" and pour over slices of nicely buttered toast. Chipped ilrictl beef mav be served in same Avav. TOAST. 59 Dry Toast. — After l)read dough has heen prepared for biscuits by adding egg, Initter and sugar, make into long, narrow loaves, place in pan, let rise and bake. Day after baking slice thin, put in large baking pan and brown in oven, turning and browning other side. A quantity can be browned, or l)roAvn as needed each day. Serve Avith soup, or very nice 1)i'oken in milk, tea or coffee. Eg(f 2 oast. — Break eggs in sufficient l)oiling hot (but not really boiling) water to cover them, slightly salted. Simmer gently until the eggs are delicately rooked, or until the yolks are covered with a white iilm. Take them up with a skinmier, and lay each on a slice of buttered toast, prf\iously dipped in ..-alted hot water. Butter and ])epper may be added at table, and eat with M'orcestershire sauce. This is an unexcelled breakfast dish. Excellent Toast. — Cut slices of a uniform thickness of half an inch ; move around over a In'isk fire, to have all jiarts toasted alike; keep only so near the coals that the pieces will Ije heated through when both sides are Avell browned. If the slightest point is blacken- ed or charred, scrape it off or it will spoil the flavor of the Avhole. If covered with an earthen bowl, it will keep both warm and moist. A clean towel or napkin will ansAver if it is to go at once to the table. Stale l)read may be used for milk-toast ; sour bread may be improv- ed by toasting it through, but sweet, light bread, only a day old or less, makes the best toast. French l^oast. — Add to one-half pint sweet milk two table- spoons sugar, a little salt and a well-beaten egg ; dip in this slices of bread (if dry, let it soak a minute), fry on a buttered griddle until it is a light brown on each side ; sprinkle with sugar and serve. This is a good way to use dry bread. Lemon Toast. — Into three cups sweet milk stir the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Dip slices of bread into the mixture and fry in butter to a delicate brown ; froth the whites of the eggs, add a large cup white sugar, two cups boiling water, and the juice and a little of the grated rind of two lemons. Pour this juice over the toast and you have a delicious supper dish. Mennonite Toast.— BQ^i up three eggs well, add a }>int sweet milk and a pinch salt ; cut slices an inch thick from a loaf baker's bread, remove crust, dip slices into the eggs and milk, fry like dough- nuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a delicate l)rown, butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Oyster Toast. — Prepare an oyster stew with plenty of milk, lightly seasoned with butter or cream if you have it, pepper, salt, etc., and pour over slices of toast ])reviously dipped in hot water. Place oysters carefully on the slices and serve on hot platter. 60 TOAST. Sausage Toast. — Is made l)y poaldinp; the sausages in 1 toiling water, frying to light brown, chop fine, and spread on Ijits of toast. Tomato Toast. — Run a quart of stewed rij>e tomatoes through a colander, place in a ))oreelain stew-pan, season with butter, i)epi)er and salt and sugar to taste ; cut slices of bread thin, brown on both sides, butter and lay on a ])latter. and just as the bell rings for tea add a pint of good sweet cream to the stewed tomatoes, and pour them over toast. Mari'oir-Boiie Toast. — Cover two beef shinbones, five to seven inches long, with dtuigh and wi-ap in muslin ; cover with hot water and boil an hour and a half Remove cloth and dough, shake or marrow with a fork upon slices of hot toast ; season with salt, a bit of cayenne and a little chopped celery. Ouster Toast. — Take one and a half d<^zen nice oysters, chop fine, put in sauce])an with some of their licjuor, add i)epper and a small ])inch of nutmeg; cook a minute or two, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and a gill of cream; let boil u]) once, add salt and pour over slices of buttered bread ; serve hot. Salmon Toast. — Mince some canned salmon fme, put in sauce- pan with a little milk or cream, let heat, season and serve on toast. Poaching egg and placing on center of each slice of toast, putting the salmon around the egg, is a more elaborate manner of serving, and is very delicious Totigne Toast. — Put finely chopped cold tongue in saucepan Avith a little water; Avhen heated add a small lump butter, salt and ])ep)>er, then stir in two beaten eggs and ])our mixture on each slice of toast; or add with the s<\isoning milk to make quite a gravy; stir in a little thickening of lloin- and water, let boil a few moments, and pour over the toast without adding eggs. The latter way is good for any bits of meat, foAvl or game, and requires less than Avitliont the milk. Water Toa^i. — Cut eitluM- white or (iraham bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, trim off cru.sts and brown in a moderate oven, as in Dri/ Toast recipe. This is the way to prepare all toasts, as all the moisture is thu.s evaporated, while hoblmg before the tire only warms the moisture, making inside of bread doughy and indi- gestil)le. For dry toast, butter slightly and serve in a folded napkin if wished hot. as racks allow heat to escape; dip edges into hot water quickly, and butter at once. In making milk toast, wet the utensil to be used in cold water, as this will prevent burning. ( AKK MAKING 61 CAKE MAKIXa. "Let all tilings l>c done decontly and in ordor," and the first to put in ordei" wlien you arc going to l>ako is yourself. Secure the liaiv ill a net or otlior covering, to ])rcvcnt any from falling, and brush tlie shoiddcrs and hack to l>e sure none are lodged there that might hlow off: make the hands and finger nails clean, roll the sleeves up abov(> the elbows, and put on a large, clean apron. Clean the kitchen table of utensils and every thing not needed, and pro- vide every tiling that will be needed until the cake is baked, not forgetting even the broom-sjtlints jireviously ]>icked off the new broom and laid away carefully in a little box. (.V knitting or trussing-needle may be ke})t for testing cake instead of sj^lints). If it is warm M-eather, ]»lace the eggs in cold water, and let stand a few minutes, as they will tlicn make finer frotli ; and be sure they are fri'sb. as they will not make a stiff froth after any amount of l)eating if old. To beat eggs (piickly. add a pinch of salt, which cools and freshens them. IJreak the oii:^!^ one at a time into a saucer so that if there be a liad one it will not spoil the others, and carefully remove all specks before beating. The cake-tins should be prepared before the cake, when baking poAvder is used, as it effer- vesces but once, and there should be no delay in baking, as the mix- ture should b<' made firm liy the heat while the effervescing process is going on. firease the pans with fresh lard, or American Cooking Oil, either of wliich is much better than butter ; line the bottom with ])a])er. using six or eight thicknesses if the cake is large, and c'reas- 62 ( AKK MAKING. ing tlio t(>i> (UK- well. (Til sonic ovens, liowever, fewer thicknesses of* paper Mould l>c nccottoin. and in some the sides also should be lined with one or two thicknesses.) Xever hake cakes or confectionery that contain no sliortening on huttered j)aper or tin. Use fine, clean inanilla pai)er. oht.iined for the puri)ose. instead. Sift Hour and >u.i:ar (if not iiulvcrizcd). and measure or weigh. Firkin or very salt hutter should he cut in hits and washed to fresh- un a little : if very hare-erushed, powdered and sifted; for dark cakes, the hest hrown sugars are best ; for jdly-cakes, light fruit cakes, etc., fine granulated and coliee "A" are best and most economical. In )no: on ordering granulated sugar always sjiecify the ii})e whicn is cheajn'r and much better for all uses than the coarse. Beat the yolks of eggs thoroughly, or until they assume a light, frosty a])pearance (this is as important as to whip the whites.) and strain ; set the whites away in a cool ])]ace until the cake is ready for them, then beat them vigorously in a cool room till they will remain in the dish when turned upside^ down. Rinse the cuj) or bowl used for yolks with part of the milk; remember this in all cooking where yolks and milk are used. Sift a part of the measured Hour with the baking powder or soda and eream tartar through a liand- sieve (which should b(^ among the utensils of ev- ery housekeeper), and mix thoroughly with the rest of the flour. In using new flom- for cither l>read or cake-making, it can be '"ripened"' for use by ])laeing the (puintity intendc<)\vdcr or >oihi and art of the whites, and CAKE MAKING. 63 SO on until the Avholc is used ; lastly, add the flaA'oring. Many good cako-makers first stir the milk and flavoring into the creamed butter and sugar, then tlie yolks, next the whites, and lastly the flour, first taking about two-thirds of it and thoroughly mixing the baking powder througli it ; the remainder of the flour is then left to be used at discretion. A little more or less flour may be needed, according to the climate, or to the kind of flour used, as the " New Process " flour requires one- riaiu Cake I'au. oightli Icss tluiu otlicr brands. There is great "knack" in beating cake ; don't st/'r. but beat thoroughly, bringing the batter up from tlie bottom of the dish at every stroke ; in this way the air is driven into the cells of the 1 tatter, instead of out of them — but the cells will be finer if beaten more slowly at the last, remembering that the motion should always be upward and the spoon always come up full. In-winter it is easier to beatwith theliand,but insunnnera wooden or silver spoon is better, and a wooden j)addle is best, though some prefer the peculiar form of spoon given in our illustration, the spaces through the bowl of which double the amount of work done by it in beating cakes, eggs. etc. An iron spoon turns the mixture dark. Xever beat a cake in tin, but use earthen <)]• stoneware. Unskillful mixing, too rapid or unequal baking, or a sudden decrease in heat before it is quite done, will cause streaks in the cake. Always l>ake a small cake first ; fill a patty pan, or cover to a baking-powder can, one-third full, and l)ake: then add more or li'ss flour as required. If the cake is hard and solid, it needs a few teaspoons of milk : if more flour is needed it will fall in the middle and be spongy and cruml)ly. PoAvdered sugar may be sifted on the top of any cake while it is a little warm : if it dissolves add more ^^ ^^ when it is cdld : keep st)me for that pur- Q ^^" -^^ ^^p pose in a spice )>ox Avith a perforated top. TakLPa.Mi.. Xlif wliitc ])ortion of orange or lemon-peel should never be used : grat<' only the yellow. When recipes call for soda and cream of tartar, baking ])Owder may be used by taking a quantity equal to both. "Milk"' always rwoariH sireet milk. "A cup" always means a /^rt-cup. not a coffee-cup. But in making any recipe if the same size cup is used in measuring the ingredients, the result Avill be the same. The regulation tea-cup means two gills, and as tea and coffee-cups vary so in size now. a set of regular measures, quarts, 64 CAKK .MAK1.\<;. pints, gills, etc., would bo advisable, two sets being really necessary, 80 as to have one <>f each size for measuring dr}' articles, flour, sugar, etc. In using recipes given by weight, if scales are not at hand, the table of weights and measures given in back part of bouk will be found a reliable guide. Sour milk may always be used instead of sweet, by using soda only. The proportions of raising powder to one quart of (lour are two heaping teaspoons baking powder, or one teaspoon soda and two teaspoons cream tartar, or one pint sour milk and one level teas])Oon soda. Owing to the alarming adulterations in cooking materials, a t-hcmist advises using tartaric acid instead of cream of tartar. It costs al)out twice as much, but only half the quantity is needed. In blanching almonds, do not put thciii into the water until it comes to a boil ; let boil a few minutes aftcj- nuts are put in, then throw them into cold Avat(M\ slij) off the skins and dry them in the open air. Do not dry them in the ovcii. wliich takes away the oil. Prepare the da}' before wanted. Fruit, Avedding and black cak(> kce[i\v(H in wa.xed ])aiH'r, Ijut bet- ter and longer if Avra})ped in tin foil, or wvap in clean towel or nap- kin wet in alcohol or Avhisky. re-wetlini;- occasionally, say once a week, and set in a cool place. Chocolate loaf and white sponge or delicate cake can be made to advantage at the same time, using yolks of eggs for former and whites for latter. Cut into squares and heai)ed together in the onkv liasket they present an agreeable appearance. To make an economical marble cake, any ordinary cake reci})e will do, using whites of eggs and white sugar with lemon flavoring for the light part, and the yolks, biown sugar and si)ices. or grated chocolate, for the dark, taking for each i)art half the quantity given in the recipe. Layer cakes may be varied in the same way. alternat- ing dark and light layers when ])Ut1ing together: oi'. stir fruit into one or two layers. Clarilied Ijutter is much better than either lard or butter for greasing cake pans, and is ])repared l)y putting butter over the fire in a ])orcelain liowl or farina boiler until the white cheesy grains have formed in it. Then set to one side, skim off all that rises to the top, settle and strain and bottle for future use. It Avill keep for years, and should be always at hand, as beside its su- periority for the ])m'pose named above, it is es])ecially }>rized for fry- CAKE MAKING. 65 ing oysters, croquettes, fritters, etc. If the butter is stale or rancid, after skimming it put in one or more slices of toasted bread, which will absorb the offensive taste or odor in a few ininutes. FRUIT CAKE. Most ladies think fruit cake c^uite incomplete without wine or brandy, but it can be made equally good on strictly temperance j^rinciples, by sultstituting one-third cup molasses for a wineglass of brandy. The objection to the use of brandy in sauces does not, however, hold good against that u.sed in cake making, as the alcohol is converted to vapor liy the heat and passes off with the other gases. There are many, however, who object to the use of liquors in any way and to keeping them in the house, and such will find the above an excel- lent and cheap substitute. Raisins should never be washed, as it is difficult to dry out thi^ moisture absorbed by them, and every particle of moisture retained tends to make the cake heavy. To remove the stems and extraneous matter, place the raisins in a coarse towel and rub them in this un- til as clean as rubbing will make them ; then pick over carefully, re- moving any stems or other defects which may be left. The raisins should be prepared before the cake, sprinkled with flour, and added the last thing before putting it in oven, as being heavy, they sink to the bottom if allowed to stand. To seed, clip with the scissors or cut with a sharp knife. Do not chop too fine ; if for light fruit cake seeding is all tliat is necessary. Slice the citron thin, and do not have the pieces too large, or they will cause the cake to break apart in cutting. Currants should be kept prepared for use as folloAvs : Wash in M'ann water, rubbing well. ])our off" water, and lepeat until the water is clear ; drain them in a sieve spread on a cloth and rub dry ; pick out bad ones, dry carefully in a cool oven or in the " heater " (or in the sun and wind, with a thin gauze over them to keep off flies, insects and dust), and set away for use. When the fruit is all mixed, cream the butter and sugar — this is very impor- tant in all cakes — add the spices, molasses, or liquors, then the milk (if any used), next the eggSAvell beaten, addingwhites with the flour as previously directed. Always beat whites and yolks separately. Next add the flour (which, in making black fruit cake, may be browned), prepareil with baking powder or soda and cream tartar, 6(3 CAKK MAKING. then tlic fliivoring (lemon and vanilla, in equal parts, make the best flavoring), and lastly the fruit dredged with avery little flour. Some prefer to mix the fruit with all the flour. When but little fruit irt used it may be dropped into the dough after it is in the pan, and pushed Just beneath the surface, which prevents it from settling to the bottom. The batter for fruit cake should be quite still". In making very large cakr-s that require three or four hours to buke, an e-xcellent way for lining the pan is the following : Fit three papers carefully, grease thoroughly, make a paste of equal parts Graham and fine flour, wet with water just stiff enough to spread easily with a spoon, place the first paper in the pan with the greased side down, and spread the paste evenly over the paper about as thick as pie-crust. In covering the sides of the pan, use a little paste to stick a portion of the paper to the top of the pan to keep it from slipping out of place, jjress the second pa])er carefully into its place, with the grea.sed side up, and next put in the third paper as you would into any baking pan, and pour in the cake. Earthen pans are used ))y some, as they do not heat so quickly and are less liable to burn the cake. When using a milk-pan, or pans without stems, a glass bottle fllled with shot to give it vv'eight, well greased, may be placed in the center of the pan, or a stem may be made ot paste-board, rolled up, but the latter is more troublesome to keep in place. The eake is apt to burn around the edges before it is done unless there is a tu])e in the center. This l)andled strainer is made in several sizes and is not only a convenience in eake making for straining yolks, etc., but is also very useful for straining drinks for nursery and sick room, yeast, blanc mange, gra- vies, custards, syrups, jellies, and for sift- ing sugar upon fruit, cakes and pies, and sifting salt into butter, excluding uaiidi^i suaiuw. all lumps. The strainer may l>e placed over a tumbler or bowl, rest- ing on the knol> on one side and handle on the other. All except layer cakes sliould be covered with a paper cap, (or a sheet of brown ])aper, which the careful housewife Mill save from her grocers' packages), when first put into the oven. Take a square of brown paper large enough to cover well tiie cake pan, out off the cor- ners and lay a plait on four sides, fastening each with a pin so as to CAKE-MAKIN«. 67 fit nicely over the pan. This will throw it up in the center, so that the cover will not touch the cake. Save the cap, as it can he used several times. Before commencing, clean out the stove, take off the lids and brush inside, rake it out underneath, get all the ashes out of the cor- ners, have the best of fuel at hand. Don't build a baking fire before it is needed, have it only moderate, and add the extra fuel in time to get it nicely burning. THE OVEX. Too much care cannot be given to the preparation of the oven, which is oftener too hot than too cool ; however, an oven too cold at first will ruin any cake. But fruit cake requires a very moderate oven — not hot enough to thoroughly brown apiece of com- mon white not^-paper in less than an hour — and a loaf of ordinary size requires from three to four hours to bake. Cake should rise and begin to bake before browning much, large cakes requiring a good, steady, solid heat, about such as for baking bread ; layer cakes, a brisk, hot fire, as they must be baked quickly. A good plan is to fill the stove with hard wood (ash is the best for baking), let it burn un- til there is a good body of heat, and then turn damper so as tc> throw the heat to the bottom of the oven for fully ten minutes be- fore the cake is put in. In this way a steady heat to start with is se- cured. Grenerally it is better to close the hearth when the cake is put in, as this stops the draft and makes a more regular heat. Keep adding wood in small quantities, for if the heat becomes slack the cake will be heavy. Great care must be taken, for some stoves need to have the dampers changed every now and then, but as a ride more heat is needed at the bottom of the oven than at the top. Mam- test their ovens in this way : if the hand can be held in from twenty to thirty-five seconds (or while counting twenty or thirty-five), it is a "quick" oven, from thirty-five to forty-five seconds is "moderate," and from forty-five to sixty seconds is "slow." Sixty seconds is a good oven to begin with for large fruit cakes. All systematic house- keepers will hail the day when some enterprising person shall in- vent a stove or range with a thermometer attached to the oven, so that the heat may be regulated accurately and intelligently. A good test for baking sponge cake is to place a piece of white paper in the oven and let it brown. If it browns, not chars, in ten minutes the 68 ( AKK-MAKINC. oven is right for the cake. If necessary to move tlie cake while leaking, do it very gently. Do not open the oven door until the cake has had time to form, and do not open it oftener than necessary, then be careful to close it quickly and gently, bo as not to jar the cake. Be sure the outside door of the kitchen is closed so that no cold air may strike it. If tlu' oven bakes too hard on the bottom, place the grate under the pan ; it too hot on top, set a pie-i)an of Avater on the toi") grate. If one side bakes faster than the other, turn vern gently. Be careful 'pSVuI,.' not to remove from the oven until done ; test thor- otu/ldi/ before removing, for if the cooler air strikes it before it is done it is certain to fall. Allow about thirty minutes for each inch of thickness in a (|uick oven, and more time in a slon' one. Test with a broom-splint or knitting-needle, and if the dough does not adhere, it is done. Settling away from the pan a little, and stopping its "singing." are other indications that the cake is ready to leave the oven. When removed, set the cake, while in the pan, on an inverted sieve to cool : this secures a free circulation of air all around it, and cools it evenly. It should rt- main in the pan at least fifteen minutes after taking from the oven, ii^kI it is better to leave the *'cap" on until the cake is carefully re- moved from tlio pan and set away, always right .«ide uj). A tin chest or stone jar is best to keep it in. Cofliee cake should be put away before it is cold, and so closely wrajiped in a large napkin that the aroma will not be lost. The patent pan with perforated cover, illustrated, is highly recommended lor leaking cakes. Cakes in fancy forms are baked in molds, the Turkish-head mold being most commonly used. When l)aking in a brick oven the mold is used with a cover, but in a stove oven the cover is remove whitj: cakks. The good ([uality of all delicate cake, especially of sj)onge-cake, (AKK MAKING. 69 depends very much upon its being made with fresh eggs. It can never be perfect unless pulverized sugar is used. It must be quickly I)ut together. l)eaten with rapidity, and baked in a rather quick ov<'n. It is made " sticky " and less light by being stirred bjng. There is no other cake so dependent upon care and good judgment in baking as sponge-cake. In making ^^white cake, if not convenient to use the yolks that are left, they will keep for sevi^r- al da}"?' i^ t /to /'ouff A/ f/ bcatm and set in a cool place. The whites of eggs, when not used, must not l)e beaten, but will keep for several davs if set in a cool place. Tlie Avhite or yolk of a medium-sized egg weighs one ounce, a fact that it is convenient to know. ;is sometimes the white or yolk of one or more eggs is wanted from several that have been ])ut away Dover Egg b uicr. together. ^Vhenever it is necessary to cut a cake while warm, do it \vh\i a warm knife. To prepare cocoa-nut. cut a ho](> througli tlie meat at one of tiu^ holes in the end, draw ofl' \]\o milk, pound tlie nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set the pieces in the heater or in a cool, open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to dry. then grate : if all is not used, sprinkle with sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry place, and it will kec}) foon soda, one and one-half cups ilour : b:ike quickly in small tins or gem-pans, and send to table warm. Charlotte (hchce Cake. — C'ut a thick loaf of s})onge or other plain cake into five or six slices horizontally of uniform width. Sjn-cad each slice with jelly, using first tart and then sweet jelly if you have both, fit them together again in the loaf and ice all over with the whipped whites of five eggs and enough powdered sugar to make a CAKE-MAKIXC. 73 stiff icing, adding the juice of one lemon. Set in slow oven for a few minutes to harden. A quick and easy way to prepare a fancy cake for tea when company appears unexpectedly. Cheap Cake. — Beat two eggs in a cup and fill up ^P^^^^Sl with thick sour cream ; add one cup sugar, one and ^^^^^^^p one-half cups flour, one even teaspoon soda. Flavor smaii cake xms. to taste and bake in small pans. May be iced and marked in gold, as in directions for icing. Chocolate Calie. — One cup butter, three of brown sugar, one of sweet milk, four of flour, yolks seven eggs, nine tablespoons grated Baker's chocolate, three teasi)oons baking ))owder. This may be leaked as a layer cake, making a white cake of whites of eggs, baking in layers and jiutting them together with frosting, alternating the layers. Chocolate Marhle Cake. — ]\Iake a batter as for white cake, take out one cup, add to it five tablespoons grated chocolate, moisten witli milk and flavor with vanilla ; ])our a layer of the white batter into the baking-pan, then drop the chocolate batter with a spoon in spots, and spread the remainder of the white batter over it. Crncinnatl Cake. — Pour over one pound fat salt pork, chopped fine and free from lean and rind, one pint boiling water ; let stand until nearly cold ; add two cups In'own sugar, one of molasses, one tablespoon each cloves and nutmeg, and two of cinnamon, two ])OUn(ls raisins, fourth pound citron, half glass brandy, three tea- spoons baking powder, and seven cups sifted flour. Bake slowly two and a half hours. This is excellent, and requires neither butter nor eggs. Citron Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, one cup milk, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, and pinch salt. After the al)ove has been put in the pan, cut the citron thin and put into the cake endways, pushing down until the batter covers it. This will prevent the citron falling to the bottom. Cocoa-nut Cake. — One cup butter, three of sugar, one sweet milk, four and a half flour, four eggs with whites beaten to a stiff fuoth, a teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one grated cocoa-nut or one- fourtli pound prepared cocoanut. Corn- Starch Cake. — Two coffee-cups pulverized sugar, three- fourtlis cup butter, cup corn starch dissolved in cup sweet milk, two cups flour, whites seven eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar teaspoon soda, or two teaspoons baking powder mixed thoroughly with flour ; cream butter and sugar, add starch and milk, then add whites and flour gradually until all is u.sed. Flavor with lemon or rose. Coifee Cake. — Two cups brown sugar, one of butter, one of mo- 74 CAKK-MAKING, lasses, one of strong coffee as prepareiece white paper cut to lit ; cut a strip of dough an inch wide, and stand it up around the edge, and take a strip of Avhite paper and paste around the cake and to the paper under it so as to keep it in shape. Into this dish of dough ])ut enough apiicot marmalade to cover the bottom, over this jtut a layer of dough cut in little bis- cuits, then a layer of preserved cherries, then another layer of little biscuits. Chop two ounces beef's marrow flne, and cover over the top ; ))Ut it on a tin carefully, and set in a slow oven. ^V'hile this is Itaking mix yolks of six eggs, four ounces sugar, one-half quart thick <'rea:n, and a cup cheirv juice, and put over cake when half bak- eed raisins,, three eggs, three table- spoons sour milk, half teasfxton soda, half cup blackberry jam. This is excellent as well as economical. Pepper Fruit Cake. — Yolks seven eggs, two cups brown sugar, one cup each molasses, butter and sour cream, one teaspoon each soda and pepper, one teasj)oon each cinnamon, allspice and cloves, one quart flour, one pomid raisins, half pound currants, fourth CAKE-.^fAKIXr,. ( / pound eitron, -wine glass ln-.-indy. 8ee directions for preparing fruit in cake preface. Pound Fruit Cede. — One pound ea
  • utter to a cream, stir in one- half i)ound granulated sugar and one pound arrowroot flour gradu- allv, beating steadily; add whii)ped whites six eggs, and beat well twenty minutes ; flavor to taste with essence almonds, vanilla or lemon. Bake in moderate oven one to one and one-half hours. CAKE-MAKIXG. S\ Spice Cake. (Without Eggs) — One heaping cup sugar, one- half eup butter, one and one-half cups sour milk, one teaspoon each cinnamon, cloves and nutmt\g, one cup fruit, one teaspoon soda; stir in Hour until it will just drop from the spoon. Spice Cake. — Three eggs, one cup butter, one cup brown sugar, four cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one cup each molas- ses and milk, one teaspoon each extract nutmeg, cinnamon and ground cloves. Sponge Cake. — Beat to a cream four eggs and a large coffee-cup white sugar. Sift two teaspoons baking powder with two cups flour, and stir tliis in carefully with sugar and eggs, then add two-thirds cup boiling water. Flavor to taste. Beat lightly together and bake in four-quart pan. The hot water makes it deliciously tender. Sponge Cake. — Three eggs, one and a half cups powdered sugar, two sifted flour, two tea- spoons cream tartar, half cup cold water, teaspoon soda, grat- ed rind and half the juice one lemon ; bake in dripping-pan, or in sj)onge cake pans given in cut. Sponge Cake. — Twelve eggs, one and one-third ])iuts pulverized sugar, one and a half pints flour, measured before sifting, small tea- spoon salt, heaping teaspoon baking powder, essence of lemon for flavor; beat whites to very stiff froth and add sugar; beat yolks, strain and add them to whites and sugar; put three tablespoons cold water in bowl where yolks were beaten, stir until all yolk is taken Bip, and add batter and beat the wliole thoroughly ; mix ])aking pow- der and salt in the flour and add last, stirring in small quantities at a time ; bake one hour in a six-quart pan in a moderate oven. This makes one very large cake. By weight use one j^iound pulverized sugar and three-fourths pound tluur. Sponge Cake. — One pound each sugar and flour, ten eggs ; stir yolks of eggs and sugar till perfectly light ; beat whites and add them with the flour after beating together lightly ; flavor with lemon. Three teaspoons baking powder in the flour will add to its lightness, but it never fails without. Bake in a moderate oven. Lemon Sponge Cake. — One lemon, three gills flour, one pint sugar, eight eggs ; beat yolks of eggs thoroughly, add sugar little by little, and the grated rind of the lemon ; beat Avhites of eggs to stiff froth, and add them alternately Avith the flour, beating very gently and barely long enough to mix well ; when part of the flour is in, add the lemon juice. Bake twenty minutes, in small loaves. 82 CAKE-MAKIXG. Philadelphia Sponge Cake. — AVeigh ingredients and prepare baking pans,then pour one gill boiling water on three-quarters pound HUgar in a bowl ; stir it, cover and let stand on the table until yolks of six eggs are beaten, add the grated rind of half a lemon to the eggs ; froth whites and pour yolks on them, l)eat thoroughly togeth- er, then add the syrup (sugar and water) and beat ten minutes, or till thick, sift in half pound Hour, mixing very gently with a knife, add juice of half a lemon, ])our in pans and bake from twenty to thirty minutes. The syrup is sometimes left on the range, and when boiling is j)oured into the eggs which are then beaten until cold. The eggs thicken more quickly in this way, and the cake is excellent, but perhaps not quite as moist as that made with cold syrup. This cake has the advantage of keeping much longer than ordinary sponge cake. White Spo>i(fe Cake. — Sift together one cup powdered sugar, one-half cup each flour and corn starch, one teaspoon baking pow- der. Have ready the whites of eight eggs beaten to stitf froth and one tablespoon rose extract, mix thoroughly and bak^ in square tins about two inches deep in quick oven. Serve cut in small squares. Ten Minute Cake. — One-fourth pound butter, a little less than a jxjund flour, the same of sugar, six eggs beaten separately ; flavor with mace and bake in mulhn rings. Tildeii Cake. — One cup butter, two of pulverized sugar, one of sweet milk, three of flour, half cup corn starch, four eggs, two tea- spoons each leaking powder and lemon extract. Adding a quarter pound citron sliced fine makes an economical Cit)'ori Cake, using extra half cup starch. Either cake is very easily made, and when well beaten is almost a white cake. Is very delinth the bat- ter, and bake in quick oven ; serve warm. Excellent tea cakes. LAYER CAKEt Zufohs. — Sift together tea-cup powdered sugar, rounded eoffee- eup flour and teaspoon cream tartar, add to the loeU-frothed whites of eight eggs and stir without l>eating till Avell mixed. Fill mer- ingue hag and press out in finger sha})es or in drops, or bake in lady- finger pan as dcscrihcd or in patty pans. The white fingers are nice for charlotte-russe ; or malce a batter of three eggs, one and a half cups pugar, two of flour, half cup water, t('as])oon cream tartar and half of soda, bake in fancy-shaped ])atty pans and ice Avith chocolate icing, either plain, boiled or caramel ; or cut any kind of plain cake into small squares, cut pmall piece from center of each square, and fill cavity with some kind of marmalade or jelly, re- l)lace part that was removed, and cover with icing. The small sponge cakes may be iced with white icing and when cold "marked in gold'' by dipping a very small bristle brush in the yolk of an egg and writing a word or name upon them. Tjayer Cakes. {\\ making layer cake batter follow directions given in cake pref- ace, always remembering to sift the flour before measuring. In bak- ing it is important to thoroughly grease the tins — to make it emi)hatie we \\\\\ say, thoroughly grease with lard or American cooking oil, and tlicn grease again (it is not al- ways m^^essary to line tins for layer cakes with paj^er) — and after using rub ofl' with a coarse towel, taking care "^^m^iure. that they are perfectlv free from all particles of cake, grease and fill again, thus obviating the necessity of washing every time tliey are lilled. A much hotter fire is required for lay«M- than for loaf cakes ; a good test for the ov(Mi is to put in a ])iece of white paper, which shoidd be broAvned in one minute, when the oven is ready for the cake. If jelly is used to spread between the layers it is a good plan to beat it smoothly and si)read it before the cakes are (piitecool. In "building," an inverted jelly tin furnishes a perfectly level surface on which to lay and spread the cake, and it may be allowed to remain on it until perfectly cold when it sliould be set away in a cake box in a conl jdace. In put- ting the layers together many place theni bottom side uj^, because of the smoother surface afiorded. In cutting it is better to first make a romiil hole in the center Avith a knife or tin tube about an inch ami a (piarter in diameter, which prevents the edge of the cake from crumbling when cut. In making the custard or "filling"' for laym- cake, place in a custard kettlt^ or tin pail an,. li LAYER CAKES. •85 To 1>l;uu'h almonds, pour boiling water over them, let boil a mo- ment, drain and throw them into cold water, slip off tlie skins and ]ioiind. To prepare cocoa-nut see cake preface. Wlien dessicated cocoa-nut is used for fdling moisten with a little milk. The cut of gititer given illustrates an inexpen- sive article necessary in cvi'iv kitchen, used for grating co- coa-nuts, lemons, orang<>s and other llavoring, cheese, horse- radish, etc. The "derman"' cakes may he baked in jelly tins. > ^ • ■^ < - AJrnond Cake. — Two cups sugar, three-fourths cup l^ittcr, one of s\v(^et milk, two of Hour, and one of corn starch well mixed^ whites of six eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, one tea- spoon soda in the milk ; cream the butter and sugar, add milk grad- ually, tlien the whites of eggs together with tbe Hour, and bake in jell}' tins. To put between layers, take two pounds almonds, Idanch and pound hue in a mortar (or a cloth Avill (hi), beat whites and yolks of two eggs together lightly, adoil the cicam, and stii- these ingredients in as for any cream-cake filling, only make a little thicker; l)lanch and chop fine a h;df pound almonds and stir into the cream. Put together like jelly cake while icing is soft, and stick in a half pound almonds split in two. Apple (/ale. — One cu]) butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, half cup milk, tlii-ee teasjiooiis baking ])owder: Itake in jelly tins. For filling, slir togc^ther a grat(Ml lemon, a large grated tart apple, an egg, and a cup sugar, and l)f>il four minute,s. A very ex- cellent cake. German Apple Cake. — Pare twenty-four good a|)])les and cut each into six equal pieces. Tak(^ some dough made as for German Fruit cake and roll out enough for two layers, cut round, turn up some for margin, ])lace on white ])a|)les on the dough in rows, set in a ([Uick oven anail contain- ing a pint sweet milk in a kettle of boiling water ; beat whites and yolks of two eggs separately ; stir in milk while boiling, a half tea- cup sugar, a large tablespoon corn starch dissolved in a little sweet milk, then the beaten yolks and a piece of butter the size of a large walnut; flavor with lemon or vanilla. When done, cut the cakes open, put in a spoonhd of the cream. })lace together again, roll in the whites and then in coarse granulated sugar. Cake with Maple Frost t7ip. — Three eggs, one cup white sugar, two tablespoons sweet milk, one heaping cup flour with two teaspoons baking j^owder in it. Filling : One cup maple syrup boiled to wax ; beat white of one egg to stiff froth, and pour on the syrup, stirring briskly. Very nice. LAYEIJ CAKES. 87 Caramel Cake. — < le and a half cups sugar, three-fourths cup l>utter, half cup milk, two and a fourth cups Hour, three eggs, three and a half heaping teaspoons baking powder, or a small teaspoon soda, and two teaspoons cream tartar ; bake in jelly tins. Make caramel as follows : Butter size of an egg, pint brown sugar, half cup milk or water, half cake chocolate ; boil twenty minutes (or un- til thick enough) and pour over cakes while warm, piling the layers one upon the other. For frt)sting for top of (^ake, take whites of two eggs, one and a half cups sugar, teaspoon vanilla, three heaping tea- spoons grated chocolate. Chocolate Cake. — One cupbutter,two of sugar, one ofmilk, five eggs, lea\4ng out whites of tiu-ee, four cups sifted Hour, two teaspoons l)aking powder or one small teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar in the flour ; flavor with vanilla and bake in four layers. For fdling and icing, take whites of three eggs beaten stiff, one and a half cups ])Owdered sugar, six tablesj)oons grated chocolate. Or, use one of the recipes for boiled frosting given under " Directions for Frosting," (adding the chocolate) which is considered l)v many to be much su- perior, especially for chocolate cakes. The boiled frosting without eggs is economical, and the cake may be made with one or two, using a little more Hour. Delicious Chocolate Cake. — 'Wliites of eight eggs, two cups sugar, one of butter, three full cups tlour, one of sweet milk, three teaspoons baking powder; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the sugar, and l>eat until light ; add the milk, then the flour and beaten whites. When well beaten divide into ecjual parts, and into half grate a cake sweet chocolate. Bake in layers, spread with custard, and alternate the white and dark cakes. For custard for the cake, add a table- spoon butter to one pint milk and let come to a boil ; stir in two eggs beaten with one cup sugar, add two teaspoons corn starch dis- solved in a little milk ; or, leave the chocolate out of the cake, and use boiled frosting with six tablespoons grated chocolate, instead of the custard, icing the top also with the mixture. Chocolate Filling. — Two ounces chocolate cooked over hot water with one cup water and one ounce sugar. Spread ))etween layers. Gey^man Chocolate Cake. — Mix four ounces each fresh l)utter and fine sugar and yolks of twelve eggs beaten to a froth ; then add eight ounces each ])owdered almonds and grated vanilla chocolate; istir well together, then put in two ounces sifted flour and last the well whipped whites twelve eggs. Cut two pieces of white paper round, leaving a margin to turn up around the edge, ^lake the cake equally thick on both pieces of paper, set in a slow oven and bake ; when cold put a layer of preserved cherries on one and lay the other cake on top of it ; trim the edges smooth and ice with chocolate icing, 88 LAYEE CAKES. made bv dissolving six ounces sugar in water and adding six ounces clioeolate ; stir constantly ; let cook till it will follow the spoon Avhen taken out or a skin has formed upon it. You can trim the cake with Avhite icing in fancy designs and garnisli the plate with fruit and white icing. Chocolate Eclairs. — Make paste after recipe for "Boston Cream Puffs," shape into cakes about four inches long and one and one- half wide, placing them on cold greased tins about two inches apart ; bake as puflis. As they come from the oven dip -the tops of the eclairs into an icing made by stirring over the tire two s(|uares scraped i'hocolate with five tablespoons powdered sugar and three of boil- ing water. When cold make an o|)ening in the side and fill with this custard ; Heat to boiling one and one-half cups milk in steam boiler, beat together two-thirds cup sugar, one-fourth cup flour, two eggs, and one-fourth teasi)Oon salt, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook fifteen minutes, stirring often ; when cold flavor Avith vanilla extract; if a chocolate flavor is preferred in the cream add one teaspoon dissolved chocolate. Cocoa-mit Cake. — To the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add two cujts powdered white sugar, three-fourths cup butter, one of sweet milk, three and a half of flour, one level teasjtoon soda and two of <-ream tartar, whites of four eggs well beaten ; bake in four layers. For icing, grate one cocoa-nut.beat whites of two eggs, and add one tea-cup ])owdered sugar; mix thoroughly with the grated cocoa-nut, and spread evenly on the layers of cak(.' Avhen they are cold. Cream Cake. — One cup sugar, yolks of two eggs and white of one, one-half cup sweet milk, one and one-half cups flour, butter size of an egg, three teaspoons baking jiowder ; bake in layers. Cream for filling: One-half cup sweet milk, or water, tliree teaspoons powdered sugar, one tablespoon eorn starch. Boil until thick, remove from stove, and when partially cool stir in the whipped white of one egg; flavor Avith vanilla and spread l)etween layers. Economical, deli- cious, and easily made. French Cream Cake. — Three eggs, one cup granulated sugar, one and a half cups flour, two tablespoons cold water, teaspoon bak- ing powder. This is enough for two cakes baked in pie-pans, to be split while warm, spreading the hot custard l>etween them, or for four cakes baked in jelly-pans, Avith the hot custard spread betAveen them, the latter being the preferable plan. For custard, l)oil nearly one ])int sweet milk, mix tAvo tablespoons corn starch Avith half a teacup sAveet milk, add two AA'cll-beaten eggs ; Avhen milk has l>oiled add nearly a cu]) sugar, and add gradually the corn starch and eggs, stirring lu'iskly ; adtl a half cup butter, stirring until dissolved, flavor Avith one teaspoon vanilla, and spread between cakes Avhile hot. This cake can be used as a pudding by ]>ouring over each piece a spoonfid of the custard that is left. LAYER CAKES. 89 Golden Cream Cake — Cream one cup sugar and one-fourth cup butter, add half cup sweet milk, and the well-beaten whites three eggs, one and a half cu]:)S flour, with half a teaspoon soda, and a teaspoon cream tartar sifted with it ; bake in three deep jelly-tins ; beat ver_v light 3'olks of two eggs, one cup sugar, and two tablespoons rich sweet cream, flavor M-ith vanilla, and spread on cakes ; or to yolks add one and a half tablespoons corn starch, three-quarters cup sweet milk and small piece butter; sweeten and flavor to taste, cook in a cus- tard-kettle till thick, let cool, and then sprcaack. The bag. when nuide of ticking, will be useful in mak- ing macaroons and other small cakes. Metropolitan Cake. — Two cups sugar, one of butter, one of milk, nearly four cups flour, whites eight eggs, three teaspoons baking powder, flavor with lemon. Take a little more than three-fifths of this mixttu-e in three jelly-tins, add to the remaining batter one ta- blesjioon ground allspice, one and a half tablespoons cinnamon, tea- spoon cloves, fourth pound each of sliced citron and chopped raisins ; bake in two jelly-tins and jtut together with frosting, alternating dark and light. Minnehaha Cake. — One and a half cups granulated sugar, half cup butter stirred to a cream, -whites six eggs, or three whole eggs, two teaspoons < ream tartar stirrcil in Iwo heajjing cups sifted flour, one teaspoon soda in half cuj) sweet milk ; bake in three layers. For filling, take a cup sugar and a little water boiled together until it is brittle when dropped in cohl water, remove from stove and stir Plate of I.a.h- Fiuj LAYER CAKES. 93 quickly into a -well iH'atf-n white of an egg; add to thif« a cup of stoned raisins chopped tine, or a cup of chopped liickorv-nut meats, and phicc between Livers and over the top. A universal favorite. N'eapoJita)). Cale (Yellow, Pink. White nnd Brown). — Yel- low : Two cups powdered sugar creamed with one cup butter, five eggs, yolks and whitens beaten separately, one-half cup milk, three cups prepared flour, a little nutmeg. Pink and White : One-half pound butter creamed with one ])0und powdered sugar, whites ten eggs whipped stiff, and one pound prepared flour; divide this batter into two e([ual portions, leave one white and color the other with a very little ])re|)ared co<'hineal. Use carefully, as a few droi)S too much will ruin the color. Brown : One-fourth cup butter creamed with one cup powdered sugar, add three eggs beaten lightly, two tablespooiTS cream, one heaping cup prepared flour, and two table- 8{)Oons vanilla chocolate grated and rubbed smooth in cream ; bake in lav(M-s. the above (juantity making three of each color. Half as mucli will be suflicient for a family cake, but for a large supper or church "sociabb^" use the whole recipe. Filling — Yellow and P)rown : Two ciijis milk, two tablespoons corn starch wet with milk, two eggs, two cups powdered sugar : heat the milk to boiling, stir in the sugar and corn starch, cook a few minutes and i)ut in the eggs, boiling until thick. Divide the custard into two parts, and stir into one two tablespoons grated chocolate, and into the other a teaspoon hitter almond. White : Whip into the stiffened Avhites of three eggs one heaping cup powdered sugar, and the juice and half the grated ])eel of one lemon. Use a layer of the brown cake as a foundation for the pile spread with yellow cu.stard, then the pink coated with chocolate, then the white and yellow layers separated with the white frosting, or ])ut together in any oi-der fancied. Very elaborate and nice. OraiKje Cah'c. — Beat whites of three ami yolks of five eggs sep- arately : cream two cups sugar and a lialf cup butter ; add one-half cup cold watiM", two and one-half cups flour, two teaspoons baking ])OAvder and the grated rind and juice of one orange (saving one ta- blespoon juice for frosting). Bake in layers and put together \y\ih. this frosting : Whites of two eggs, two cups sugar and the table- sj^oon orange juice. Frost top also. Orange Cufitard Cake. — One and one-half cups sugar, one cup butter, two and one-half cuj^s liour. live well beaten eggs, four tea- spoons sweet milk, tv.'o teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers. For filling : Two whole oranges grated with peel of one ; one cup sugar, two tablespoons butter, two eggs ; beat Avell together and ))oil until it thickens, stirring to keep it from burning on the bottom. Oran corn starch and one cup sweet milk in which three teaspo<;ns baking powder have l)een dissolved ; last, add whites eight eggs and two cups sugar well l^eaten together ; flavor to taste, bake in sheets ami put together with icing. For Cocoa-nut Cream Ca ke nne X\\\s filling : Whip one cup cream, one-half cupsugar, one cup cocoa-nut ; spread between layers and on top ; flavor to taste. Cream Spo7i fom- layers in jelly-tins ; make frosting of w bites of three LAYER CAKES. 95 €ggs, three teaspoons baking poM'der and three-fourtlis pound pul- verized Bugar; with frosting for first hiyer mix rolled hickory-nut meats, with that for second lay- er mix fine-sliced figs, for third with blanched al- monds chopped, and on the top spread the plain frosting, and grate cocoa-nut over thickly. Vanity Cake. — One and a half cups sugar, half cup butter, half i-up sweet milk, one and a half cups flour, half cup corn starch, tea- spoon baking powdei-, whites six eggs : bake in four cakes, putting frosting between and on top. Velvet Cake. — Two cups sugar, six eggs, leaving out the whites of three, one cup boiling hot water, two and one-half cups flour, one tablespoon baking powder in flour ; beat the volks a little, add the sugar, and beat fifteen minutes ; add the three l^eaten Avhites, and the eup of boiling water just before the flour ; flavor with a teaspoon lemon extract and bake in three layers, putting between them icing made by adding to the three whites of eggs beaten to a stiff" froth, six des.«ert-spoons of pulverized sugar to each egg. and lemon to flavor. White Fndt Cake. — To one cup buttt-r beaten to a cream, add two of sugar, three of flour in which two teaspoons baking powder have been sifted, and the stifiHv beaten whites of six eggs. Bake in jelly-cake tins ; when done (while still hot) put between the layers this filling : Chop fine a quarter pound each of figs, seeded raisins, citron, preserved ginger and blanched almonds, and stir them into whites three eggs beaten stiflT, a cup powdered sugar, and the juico of one lemon; frost the whole quickly. A most delicious cake. White Mountain Cake. — Two cups pulverized sugar, half cup butter beaten to a cream ; add half cup sweet milk, two and a half cups flour, two and a half teaspoons baking powder in the flour' whites eight eggs ; bake in jelly-tins and ])Ut together with icing made by boiling a half cup water and three cups sugar till thick ; pour it sloAvly over the well-beaten whites three eggs, and beat all together till cool. Beat before putting on each layer; or use plain icing. Sprinkle each layer thickly with grated cocoa-nut, also sides and top, using two cocoa-nuts, and a handsome Cocoa-nut Cake will result. 96 COOKIES AND JUMBLES Xenophoii CaJcc. — Ono cup sugar, half each of Initter and milk, whites of four eggs, scant two cups flour, flavor with vauilla ; two teaspoons baking i>owdcr. Stir flour in last very lightly. Bake in layers and when cold sjn-ead with this filling; scant pound shelled almonds, blanched and pounded in a mortar (or a howl may he used with the potato-maslier), half cup thick sour cream, juice of half a lemon, make very sweet. ]Mix and let stand in cold place one hour before usincr. Delicious hut nnist he eaten the dav it is made. Coolvies aiicl .Tiinil)lef Sift before measuring all flour used in mixing and rolling, and bake in a quick oven. A nice '" finishing touch " can ho given l\v sprinkling them with gianulated sugar or seeds, and rolling over lightly with thf rolling i»in,then cutting out and press- ing a whole raisin in the center of each ; or, when done a very light hntwn, brush over while still hot Avith a small bristle Ijrush called a jtastry brush, and kc[)t for such jjurposes, or a soft bit of rag dipped in a thick syrup of sugar and water, or the roll glaze made of yolk of one egg. its ])ulk in water and (piarter teaspoon sugar ; sprinkle with currants. cocoa-nut, or any seed preferred, and return to the oven a moment. Seed cookies may he made by adding one tal)lespoon caraway Beeds to any of the folloAving recipes. Flour should never he I'^e'l for any purpose without sifting, so it is Avell to always have a large covered can or bucket full of sifted flour in the pantry. »— ^^►- » Bachelor\s Buttons. — Mix two ounces butter, three ot' sugar, five of flour ; to this acat Avcll and stir in the flour, flour the board and roll the paste as thin as possible, cut in circles and bake in a very quick oven. This quantity makes one hundred and twenty-nine snaps, about three inches across. Hotel Ginger Snaps. — One gallon molasses, two pounds brown sugar, one quart melted butter, half cup each ground cloves, mace, cinnamon and ginger, one cup soda. Ginger Tea-cakes. — Mix two cups each powdered sugar and warmed butter, add three well-beaten yolks, a cup molasses, four heaping cups flour, tablespoon each ginger and soda. Bake in patty pans in a moderate oven. 106 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. OPIEAMS AISTD CUSTARDS. For creams and custards eggs should never be beaten in tin, but always in stone or earthen ware, as there is some chemical influence about tin which prevents their attaining tliat creamy lightness so desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beating whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams it is better to soak it for an hour or two in a little cold water or milk, set in a warm place ; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve) ; when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar,one salt-spoon salt to each quart milk. Custards, like cakes, are nicer if yolks and whites are beaten separately and whites added last. Bake in baking dish, or cup set in pan of hot water until firm in center, taking care that heat is moderate or the custard will turn in part to whey. The delicacy of the custard depends on its being baked sloich/. It is much nicer to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a small wire strain- er. Foj boiled custards or floats the yolks alone may be used, Avhich makes the custard much finer, or for economy's sake the entire eggs. For a more ele- gant custard whip whites of eggs and ■wire straiuer. place over the top Avhen hot. Always place milk to boil in a custard kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 107 Custard Kettle. with tin), or in a pan or pail set in a kettle of hoihng water ; when the milk reaches the boiling point, w^hich is shown by a slight foam rising on top, add the sugar which cools it so that the eggs will not curdle when added ; or, another convenient way is to mix the beaten and strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then add gradually several spoons of the boiling milk, until the eggs and sugar are heated through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. Let remain a fcAV moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail imme- diately in cold water or turn into a cold dish, as it curdles if allowed to remain in a hot basin ; add flavoring extracts after removing from the stove. Peach leaves, vanilla beans, or laurel leaves give a fine llavor, but must be boiled in the milk and taken out before other ingredients are added. The only spices used in flavoring custards are nutmeg and cinnamon. Lemon is liked .by many but the white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called "zest," and is used, pounded fine, for creams, etc. Boiled custards are very diffi- cult to make, and must have closest attention until finished. Cus- tards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar. and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling. In making Charlotte-russe it is not necessary to add gelatine. The filling may be made of well-w^hipped cream, flavored and sweet- ened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater" to do the whipping. When other ingredients are to be combined with the whipped cream for filling, leave the cream on ice until all are ready, th en turn cr eam into the mixture, whip through gently, let stand a few minutes and whip again, keeping it on ice till it seems to be thickening, when it should be turned into a plain mold previously lined with cake, which should also be kept on ice until ready to serve. Any deep pan will do, which should not be wet or greased but lined witK clean manilla paper. If sponge cake is used cut in sheets to fit bottom and sides 108 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. smoothly. When lady-fingers are used the ingenuity of the cook may he hrought into play in their arrangement, placing them diago- nally around the sides, forming a star or rosette in the bottom, cut- ting into desired shapes to carry out any design. A large charlotte-russe could easily be given the form of a fort by molding in deep conical shaped pan, leaving holes at intervals in the sides of the cake lining, and after turning out inserting there- in lady-fingers to represent cannon, ornamenting top with darts or arrows of isinglass with bits of jelly on the points. A full slice of pine-apple divided into eighths and the rind turned in the center, leaving the jooints to turn out in the form of a star, filling the center with whipped cream, makes a handspme finish for the top of char- lotte-russe or a pine-apple cake. Icing the sides is also an improve- ment; in short, ornament in any manner as fancy may dictate, with candied fruits, nuts, etc., which may be made to adhere to the cake l)y first dipping in syrup (sugar boiled to crackling). To make the cake lining retain its place firmly, brush edges fi wherever cake or lady-fingers join with a very little of this hot syrvp or ^vith the white of an egg, or a little gum arabic dissolved in water, putting on so little that none adheres to the mold. The whole interior is sometimes brushed over with Avhite of egg to make the cake firmer. If any sheet of cake is left, put upside down on board and spread over it a wet towel and it will keep perfectly. If eggs are used in the cream Avhip them first. If preferred, the charlotte-russe may be made into small molds, one for each person. Great care must be used in turning out, or the cream may burst the cake. Holding the mold in the left hand, place the plate or dish on which it is to be served over it with the right hand, J--^^ and slowly and gently invert it. If desired, a piece of the cake may be shaped for a cover to the mold, which when served be- comes the foundation. A much simpler and very nice way of preparing a case for charlotte-russe, is to bake a sponge cake in a fancy mold and when cold turn out and with a sharp knife carefully cut off the top, laying it to one side for the cover; replace charione Eu«e. cake in mold and remove the inside carefully, leaving CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 109 the cake at least an inch thick and as smooth as possible ; then fill with the prepared cream, put on the cover and serve inverted, as above on plate ; or simply scoop out the inside and after filling and turning from the mold turn it on another plate, leaving the cake right side up, and ^eap whipped cream upon the open top as illustrated. Cream intended for whipping should first be chilled on ice, and may be sweetened or flavored to taste either before or after whip- ping. Have a deep tin pan half filled wnth snow or pounded ice, and into this set another pan that will hold two or three times the quan- tity of cream before it is whipped ; place the cream in a bowl, set on ice, and with a whip churn (or an egg beater if you have not a churn) whip to a froth, and when the bowl is full let stand a moment until the air bubbles break, then skim the froth into the pan standing on the ice, and repeat this until the cream is all froth ; then wdth the spoon draw the froth to one side, and it will be found that some of the cream has gone back to milk ; turn this into the bowl again and whip as before; or use a sieve as the receptacle for the whipped cream, placing it over a bowl to catch the drippings, which are re- whipped. The whip churn shown in the cut can be procured of almost any dealer or may be ordered from the tinner. It is operated by placing the handle inside the tube and inserting the perforated end of the tube (slightly tipped) into the bowl of cream. By drawing up the handle and ■ (D forcing it down again the cream is forced in and Whip Churn. Q■^^^ Qf ii^Q holes in the tube and soon becomes a light froth, which is taken off as directed above. In cold weather it is not considered necessary by some to thus skim the froth, simply whipping rapidly until the Avhole stiffens Be careful not to whip too long or particles of butter Avill form. When cream is difficult to whip, add to and whip with it the white of an egg. After the cream is whipped, work the froth with an egg whisk which makes it finer grained. If perfectly sweet use double cream for whipping. If too thick a little milk may be added. Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours, and is best for tea or coffee ; double cream has stood twenty-four hours, and cream for butter often stands forty-eight hours. In put- ting together ingredients for custards always rinse out the bowl in 110 CREAMS AND CUSTABDS. Costard S'raloer. which yolks were beaten with a part of the milk used, so that none of the yolks will be wasted. When creams or custards through lack of proper attention have been cooked too long and become curdled, beating thoroughly with an egg beater will remove the unpleasant effect. The measurement of cream in the following recipes is given before it is whipped. The Bavarian cream recipes will make three or four times the quantity of unwhipped cream called for, and are therefore comparatively inexpensive for so elegant a dessert. Molds should always be wet in cold water for creams, russes, blanc-manges, etc., that are placed in them to stand until cold. If they do not turn out easily, dip for an instant into warm water. Before turning into molds some prefer to strain all blanc-manges, and cool six hours before serving, or are even better made the day before wanted. Should custards cook up lumpy they should be strained, and many strain them before cooking, after putting all ingredients together. Gelatine is usually put up in two-ounce packages, so that where recipes call for half package, one ounce should be used. In choos- ing gelatine or isinglass select that which is whitest, has no un- pleasant odor, and which dissolves most readily in water. To test its purity drop a few threads of the substance into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into \dnegar. In the first it will dissolve, in the second become white and cloudy, and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. But if adulterated it will not so completely dissolve in hot water, in cold water it will become jelly- like, and in vinegar will harden. In preparing small fruits with seeds for creams, etc., mash through a fine woven-wire sieve, called a puree sieve — the ordinary flour sieve being too coarse. A- very useful kitchen utensil is the little steamer de- Teakettle st«amer. signed to set over top of teakettle, in which creams and custards that need to be cooked over hot water may be very easily prepared, saving space of one utensil. Macaroon Basket. — A pretty and unique way of serving maca- CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Ill roons with cream is as follows : Dissolve a tablespoon gum arable in half cup hoiling water thoroughly ; then ^ Btir in one large cup white sugar. Boil '^^. gently until very thick. Set it while using /u^£''%l% in a pan of boiling water to keep hot. •■•i''---|l% Take a round tin pail, butter thickly on // "'^-^^^^^ bottom and sides, dip the edges only of ^^^^^^^^m each macaroon in the hot candy and lay ^^^^^^^B^S them in close rows on the bottom until ^^^^^^^H it is covered. Let them get perfectly dry, ^^^^^^^^® and be sure they adhere firmly to one an- _^ ^^^^^^^^ ^— ^ other before beginning the lower row of (^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.1 the sides. Build up the wall one row at a ^^^^^^^^^^^g^^^^ time, letting each harden before adding Macaroon Basket. ~'"' another. AVhen the basket is done and firm, lift carefully from the mold, make a loop-handle at each end with four or five macaroons stuck together, set on a flat dish and heap with whipped cream. Sprinkle comfits over cream or ornament with bits of red jelly. Lady- fingers, brushing edges with white of egg, may be thus utilized. Another pretty dish is made by slicing oranges nicely, and placing on skewers dip them into the hot candy, and line bottom and sides of pail or mold (which must first be buttered) in same way. Leave until hard and cemented together, fill with whipped cream and you have an Orange Basket. Orange Baskets. — Remove the fruit from the interior of oranges carefully by making a small incision on one side of the fruit, then cut the skin into the shape of a basket, leaving about half an inch of the stalk ends for handles. Fill the baskets with any cream, ices, ice cream, whipped cream, jellies, etc., and they make a very pretty ornament for the table. The juice and pulp removed can be made into jelly or custard, or sent to table sweetened with sugar. Blanc-Mange. — Dissolve three heaping tablespoons each corn starch and sugar in one pint milk ; add to this three eggs well beaten, and pour the mixture into one pint boiling milk, stirring constantly until it boils again ; after taking from the stove flavor to taste and pour into cups or small moulds ; when cool take out and place on dish as illustrated, or with a mold of jelly in center. Serve a spoon of jelly and a sauce of sweetened cream with each mold. or omit jelly entirely and serve with sweetened cream or whipped cream ; or, put one quart milk (resei'ving three tablespoons Avith Avhich mix three heaping tablespoons corn-starch) with a pinch salt and five tablespoons sugar. When milk is hot, pour in the mixed corn- starch, and stir until it is a thick batter ; pour this on the well-beaten whites of four eggs, add two teaspoons vanilla, pour into mold wet in cold water, and set on ice ; when cold turn from the mold and 112 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. serve in a custard made as follows : Put one pint milk in a basin over boiling water, mix in a tea-cup two even teaspoons corn-starch in two of cold milk, beat in the four yolks of eggs, and two and a half tal)lespoons sugar. When the milk is hot pour part of it into the cup and stir well, i>our it back into the basin and stir until as thick as desired ; put on ice until chilled thoroughly. Blanc-mange may be colored l)rown with chocolate, green with spinach juice, or pink with the juice of strawberry, currant or cranberry, or a hand- some yellow with saflron or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice and strained through a cloth. An easy and ornamental dish can then be made l)y i)Utting into the bottom of the mold a layer of the white blanc-mange, smoothing it nicely, then a layer of the colored, ^^ and finish with the white, or vice versa. Very pretty lialf-pint molds may be made as follows : Tilt mold in a pan of snow or pounded ice, color one-fourth the blanc-numge jjink, another fourth green; wet the molds and pour into them a little of the colored blanc-mange. putting only one color into each mold, and filling it so that when tilted the blanc-mange reaches nearly to the top and covers about two-thirds of the bot- tom ; Avhen cold set mold level and fill with the white blanc-mange, which has meantime been kept in so warm a place as not to hard- en. If the molds are made to imitate roses or fruit, the fruit may be green, and roses pink ; if corn, yellow; and various ways of com- bining colors and forms Avill suggest themselves to the ingenious housewife. Chocolate Blaiic- Mange. — Half box gelatine, soaked till dis- solved in as much cold water as will cover it, four ounces sweet chocolate grated, one quart sweet milk, one cup sugar ; boil milk, sugar and chocolate five minutes, add gelatine and boil five minutes more, stirring constantly ; or to the grated chocolate add half the sugar, place in sauce pan with two table- spoons boiling water, stir over a hot fire a minute or two, add to milk in custard ket- tle with the rest of sugar, strain, flavor with vanilla, put in molds to cool, and eat with cream. If wanted for tea, make in the morning ; if for dinner, the night before. For a plain blanc-mange omit the choco- Puddi,,? m„m late. To serve very handsomely with cream set to form in a mold with cylinder in center (any pudding or cake mold will do). On^ may be improvised by stitching together a roll of stift'])aper just the height of mold, butter.it well and hold in center of mold while filling, put- ting a light weight on it to keep in place ; or. better still, use a bottle filled with shot or damp salt. When blanc-mange is turned out slip CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 113 out this cylinder, fill the cavity with whipped cream, raising it to pyramidal forni, and heap same about the base ; or, form in melon mold and serve with whipped cream around it. Farina Blanc- Mange. — Set a quart new milk over boiling water, reserving a few spoonfuls in which mix three ounces farina ; when the milk films add one-third cup sugar, the farina and a quar- ter teaspoon salt, and stir until cooked to thick luitter ; pour into wet mold, let stand three hours, and eat with sugar and cream, or any custard or sauce preferred. Raspberry Blanc-Mange. — Stew nice fresh raspberries, strain off the juice and sweeten to taste; place over the fire and when it boils stir in corn starch wet in cold water, allowing two table- spoons corn starch for each pint juice; continue stirring until sufficiently cooked, pour into molds wet in cold water and set away to cool ; eat with cream and sugar ; other fruit can be used instead of raspberries. Rice Blanc- Mange. — Five ounces rice flour and one quart milk ; mix flour with a little cold milk and stir till smooth, then add and stir in six ounces fine sugar, a teaspoon grated vellow rind of a lemon, or two teaspoons pure vanilla extract, or a drop or two essence of almonds; then add the rest of the milk, stir all well together, place on the fire and boil and stir constantly until it thickens, then imme- diately pour into mold ; let it remain till perfectly stiff and cold ; eat with sugar and cream or any sauce preferred. Sago Blanc-Mange. — Boil a half pint pearl sago in one quart milk, or half milk and half water, until perfectly soft ; stir in two well-beaten eggs and pour into mold wet with cold water. Serve with the sweetened cream, or it mavbe eaten warm if preferred with " Fairy Butter." Vanilla Blanc-Mange. — One ounce gelatine soaked in one quart milk one hour ; set over fire, add yolks of three eggs beaten with one cup sugar, beat to boiling, flavor with vanilla and turn into mold. Eat with sweetened cream. Ap'ple Charlotte. — Soak one-third box gelatine an hour in third cup cold water, pour half cup boiling water over it, stir until thor- oughly dissolved and pour upon a scant pint of tart apples-steamed and rubbed through a puree sieve, add one cup sugar and juice of onelarge lemon ; place in a basin of pounded ice and beat until it begins to thicken add well-frothed wkites of three eggs, pour into two-quart mold that has been lined with sponge cake and set on ice to harden ; make a custard of the yolks, one pint milk and three ta- blespoons sugar, and Avhen the charlotte is turned out on a dish pour this around it. 114 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Strainlerry Charlotte. — Dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a pint warm water, strain and when nearly set dip fresh strawberries into it and line bottom and sides of a plain round mould packed in ice ; fill with cream made after any cream or russe recipe preferred. Raspberries, blackberries and cherries may be used for same pur- pose. Serve when cold with whipped cream poured round it, dip- ping mold in warm water before turning out. A most beautiful and delicious dish. Charlotte- Russe. — Split two dozen lady-fingers (slices of sponge or other cake may be used), lay them in a mold, put one- third 1)0X gelatine into half pint milk, place it where it will be warm enough to dissolve. Whip three pints cream to a froth and keep cool ; beat yolks of three eggs and mix with half pound powdered sugar, then' beat whites very stiff and add to it, strain the gelatine upon these, stirring quickly ; then add the cream, flavor with vanilla or lemon, pour over the cake, let stand upon ice two hours. Serve with Avliipoed cream. Some add a layer of jelly at bottom of mold. Charlotte- BuHse. — One ounce gelatine dissolved in two gills boiling milk, Avell-frothed whites of four eggs, one and a half cups Avhite powdered sugar, one pint thick cream whipped to froth, and rose- water or vanilla for flavoring ; line a large mold „..____ with thick slices sponge cake, mix the gelatine, Large mom. sugar, cream and flavoring together, add lightly the frothed whites, pour into mold, set aw^ay on ice till required ifor use. This is an easy and excellent mode of making this most delicate dessert. Charlotte-Russe. — Cut stale sponge cake into slices about half an inch thick and line three molds with them, leaving a space of half an inch between each slice ; set molds where they will not be dis- turbed until filling is ready ; whip one and one-half pints cream to stiff froth, stir into it two-thirds cup powdered sugar, one teaspoon vanilla, and half a box gelatine soaked in cold water enough to cover it for one hour, and then dissolved in boiling water enough to dissolve it (about half a cup) ; stir from the bottom of the pan until it begins to grow stiff, fill the molds and set on ice one hour, or until they are sent to table. When ready to serve loosen lightly at the sides and turn out on a flat dish. Charlotte-Russe. — Make a sponge cake and bake in a sheet, or better, buy a sheet at bakery, Avet bottom of paper with cold water and takeoff care- fully, or if cake has accidentally been baked too hard, let stand after dampening ;:.for f^teen minutes before taking off paper. _#Line an unbuttered mold by trimming off ^f edges of cake and just cutting a piece to fit the bottom, then the sides, putting light colored side of cake next to mold and fill with the following CREAMS AND CUSTAEDS. 115 prepared whipped cream : One pint thick sweet cream, four heaping tablespoonvS sugar and teaspoon flavoring, third each of lemon, va- nilla and almond, or all of one kind ; place dish in a pan of ice and whip with egg beater or whip churn. After filling mold place in bed of ice till wanted, turn out on platter and serve. Almond Bavarian Cream. — Whip one and one-half pints cream until only a half pint is left unwhipped, which put into a double boiler with a pint blanched sweet almonds pounded to paste, and add three eggs and a small cup sugar, first thoroughly beaten together; cook until it begins to thicken, then stir in one ounce gelatine soaked two hours in half cup milk ; remove from fire, strain and add one-fourth teaspoon essence of almond ; beat until it thickens and stir in the whipped cream, pour into molds, set away until cold, and serve with whipped cream. Use one pint pistachio nuts instead of almonds, omitting essence of almond, and you have Pistachio Bavarian Cream. Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Scrape one ounce Baker's choc- olate, add two tablespoons sugar, put over a hot fire with one table- spoon hot water and stir until smooth and glossy. Have a half cup ^a^ milk boiling, stir the chocolate into it >;^- .^^hi. and add one ounce gelatine soaked two >^''Vr:.:.;:f3K hours in a half cup milk. Strain into ^j^l^^-^^Js^i'^^* ^^^ basin, add two tablespoons sugar, Mm TM\^ayrM\^ place in ice water and stir until it ^^^^^P ^MiaHi^^fcs^ begins to thicken ; add a pint cream ^^zffljM ''!""^ " 111^^^ whipped to a stiff froth, mixing well, "■-'^kiuJiSn.Ric, ^ .,,,^..,,..,...-^;^ and turn into mold to harden. Serve Ba>ah»mcrtuui. wlth whlppcd creaui. The crown molds are best for Bavarian cream, as the opening in the center may be filled with the whipped cream served with it. Orange Bavarian Cream. — "Whip one and one-half pints cream, and skim off until less than a half pint remains unwhipped : put this in a double boiler, add beaten yolks six eggs, stir until it begins to thicken, and add one ounce gelatine that has been soaked two hours in a half cup cold water, also grated rind of two oranges. When gelatine is dissolved take off and set in pan of powdered ice; stir till it begins to cool and add juice five oranges strained over one large cup sugar. Beat until it thickens like custard, add whipped cream, stiruntil thoroughly mixed, and pour into molds. The oranges may be omitted, and flavored with vanilla the above makes a delicious Vanilla Cream. Serve when cold heaped around with whipped cream. Make Lemon Cream in same manner, using juice four lemons, or, leave out the cream, taking instead a scant pint cold water mixed with the Avell-beaten yolks five eggs, stirred in with the sugar and juice, adding the whipped whites last instead of the cream, and you will have Orange or Lemon Sponge, as you prefer. 116 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Pine-o2'>ple Bavarian Cream. — Chop one pint canned pine- apple, and simmer over fire -with small onp sugar twenty minutes and add one ounce gelatine previously soaked two hours in half cup cold water, strain through a sieve into bright tin basin, rubbing through as much of tlie pine-apple as possible. Beat until it begins to thicken, then stir in one pint cream, whipped, pour into mold and serve cold, with Avhipped cream around. _ Decorate with tuft of pine-apple leaves, or if want- Piuc-appic cre«n. ed more elaborate use pine-apple decoration described in charlotte- russe. Coffee Bavarian Cream is made the same, with one cup strong, boiling hot coffee instead of the cooked pine-apple ; or, take whites four eggs and a cup cold Avater, leaving out whipped cream, mixing the water with the sugar and IVuit before cooking, and add- ing the frothed whites of eggs instead of cream, and you will have a delicious Pine-ajiple Spo7ige. Strawherrj/ Bavarian Cream. — Soak one ounce gelatine two hours in half cup cold water, mash one quart straM-l^erries with large cup sugar and let stand one hour; whip one pint cream to froth, strain mashed berries through cloth into bright tin basin, pour half cup boiling water over the soaked gelatine, and when dissolved strain it into the strawberry juice. Set basin in pan of pounded ice and beat the mixture until it begins to thicken ; when like soft custard stir in and mix thoroughly the whipped cream, turn into a two-quart mold, or two or more smaller ones, and set away to cool and harden. Serve cold with whipped cream. Easpher)^ and Blackberry Ba- varian Creams are made in exactly same manner, as are also Peach, Ajyricot, and Pear Creams, first putting these fruits (which may be either canned, partially cooked, or fresh) through a puree sieve, and then cookinggently with the sugar twenty minutes, ^yrTTsg!ij||^/vv.»_ stirring often ; leave out the hot water and stir the ;^^^^a^fc^^^ soaked gelatine into the hot fruit, which must ^^^^^^^^^^^ cool before beating and adding whipped cream. Peach Cream. Picccs of frcsh frult uiay be served around it. Or, for Sponges with any of the above fruits use a cup water and whites of four eggs instead of pint cream, boiling half the sugar and water together twenty minutes, then adding the gelatine, then the berries or fruit prepared as above, and stirring in the whipped whites of eggs when the mixture is partially cold and begins to thicken. Mold and serve same as creams. Italian Cream. — Soak one-third box gelatine half an hour in cold milk, put a quart milk in custard kettle and when boiling stir in well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, add one and a half cups sugar and the gelatine ; when the custard begins to thicken take it off and pour into a deep dish in which the eight whites have been beaten to a stiff froth ; beat thoroughly together and flavor to taste ; put in CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 117 molds, and allow four hours to cool. This cream is much more easily made in winter than in summer. Chocolate Cream. — Scald one quart milk and stir into it half package gelatine, previously dissolved in one cup milk, and add cup powdered sugar. Heat up once and when gelatine is quite dis- solved strain. Wet four tablespoons chocolate with cold water and add to the mixture, which must again be heated smoking hot, then add gradually beaten }- oiks two eggs, and boil for five minutes, not longer, as the eggs may curdle. Turn into a large shallow dish or pan to cool, and when it begins to coagulate chocolate cream. whip in gradually and thoroughly beaten whites two eggs. Lastly add pint cream, whipped, pour into wet mold, let stand until per- fectly cold and serve with sv.-eetencd cream. By taking half the chocolate and coloring only half the cream, using a buttered paste- board to separate the two in the mold, the effect is quite pleasing. Raspberry Cream. — One quart good cream, one pint fresh raspberries ; mash and rub fruit through a fine sieve or strainer to extract the seeds, bring the cream to a boil (having reserved one pint for froth), and add it to the berries Avhile it remains hot, sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. Now raise cream, which has been reserved, to a froth with a beater, take off the froth and lay it on a sieve to drain ; fill dish, or glasses as in almond custard, with the cream and place froth on top. Very nice. Any kind of berries, jam or jelly is good, and can be used without straining. Rock Cream. — Boil one cup rice in a custard-kettle in SAveet milk until soft, add two tablespoons loaf sugar, a salt-spoon salt ; pour into a dish and place on it flumps of jelly ; beat whites of five eggs and three tablespoons pulverized sugar to stiff froth, flavor to taste, add one tablespoon rich cream, and drop the mixture on the rice, giving it the form of a rough snowy rock ; or, flavor the rice with essence almonds, or any other preferred, put into cups and let stand till cold ; then turn out in a deep glass dish and pom- round them a soft custard made after any good recipe, placing on top of each ball a bit of bright colored jelly. Flavoring must be same in rice and custard. Riiby Cream. — Soak half pint tapioca over night in half pint water ; simmer over slow fire in a pint cold water until clear, the soaked tapioca and a lemon rind cut in pieces ; skim out lemon paring and stir in four ounces sugar, half pint currant jelly, juice one lemon, two teaspoons scokeberry syrup ; let simmer a few min- utes and pour into one large or two small glass dishes, and when perfectly cold (just before serving) cover it with either of these snows : Whipped whites four eggs with three ounces powdered 118 CREAMS AXD CUSTARDS. sugar added gradually, flavored with a little lemon, or one pint cream whipped with two and one-half ounces sugar. Very ornamen- tal, and called also " Ruby iinder the snowP Tapioca Cream. — Soak over night two tablespoons tapioca in one-half cup milk (or enough to cover) ; bring one quart milk to boiling point ; beat well together yolks of three eggs, half cup sugar and one teaspoon lemon or vanilla for flavoring ; add the tapioca, and stir the whole into the boiling milk, let boil once, turn into the dish, and immediately spjread on the whites. Serve Avhen cold. Tea Cream. — Dissolve one-half package gelatine in one cup milk, add one cup white sugar, and pour over it one large cup strong tea, boiling hot, strain through fine muslin and let cool; whip pint of rich cream and also two eggs ; when the gelatine is perfectly cold beat in the whites until it is a firm froth, then whip in the cream ; set away in a wet mold for eight or ten hours, and serve cold with sweetened cream. Coffee Cream is made in same manner, substi- tuting cup strong black coffee for the tea. Both made at a time, molded in cups or individual molds, and turned out in alternate rows upon a plate, they make a handsome dish, and give guests a choice. The stronger and blacker the coffee the greater the contrast. Turret Cream. — One pint sweet, rich ci'eam, one quart milk, one package Cox's gelatine, one heaping cup white sugar, three eggs beaten light, whites and yolks separately, one-half pound crystal- lized fruit — cherries and peaches, or apricots — vanilla flavoring, juice one lemon. Soak gelatine four hours in one cup milk, scald re- mainder of milk and add the sugar, and when this is dissolved the soaked gelatine ; stir over the fire until almost boiling, and divide into two parts ; return one part to the fire, and when near boiling stir in the beaten yolks, cook two minutes, and turn into a bowl to cool. "When it cools whip the cretim very stiff and beat whites of eggs until they stand alone ; divide the latter into two heaps. As the yellow gelatine begins to " form " whip one-half the whites into it, a little at a time ; to the white gelatine add rest of whites in same manner alternately with whipped cream ; season yellow with vanilla and white with lemon juice beaten in last. Wet a tall fluted mold with water and place around bottom on inside a row crystalized cherries, then a layer white mixture, then a layer apricots or peach- es, sliced, layer yellow mixture, another border of cherries, and so on until all materials are used. When firm, which will be in a few hours (in summer set on ice), wrap a cloth wrung out of hot water on the mold, and invert upon a flat dish; serve with sweet cream. A very beautiful, ornamental and delicious dessert, and sure to be a success if above directions are followed. Bitter almond may be used instead of lemon if preferred. Made in the fluted mold with stem, filling in whipped cream in center, makes a still more elabo- rate dish. CREAMS AXD CUSTARDS. 119 Whliyped Cream. — Prepared according to directions in preface whipped cream, sweetened and flavored is a choice dessert alone, but may be served in various ways. Baked apples, and fresh or preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly served in glasses one- third full and filled up with cream makes a very wholesome and delicious dessert. Whipped Cream. — One and one-half pints good rich cream sweetened and flavored to taste, three teapoons vanilla; whip to stiff froth. Dissolve three-fourths ounce best gelatine in a small cup hot water, and when cool pour into the cream ; stir thoroughly, pour in molds and set on ice, or in ver}' cool place. Almond Custard. — Heat a quart milk (half cream is better) to boiling and add the beaten yolks of six eggs, wdiites of four and a half pounds almonds blanched and pound- ed to paste with four tablespoons rose water. Put over boiling water and stir constantly until it thickens. Then remove from fire and when nearly cold stir up thoroughly and cu.iardm oias^es. pour into cups or glasses ; make a meringue w^ ith the whites of four eggs and a half cup powdered sugar, flavored with one teaspoon extract bitter almond, and heap on each cup. Ap])le Ctistard. — One pint mashed stewed apples, one pint sweet milk, four eggs, one cup sugar, and a little nutmeg, or juice and grated rind of one lemon is a nice flavoring ; bake slowly in custard cups or^deep dish, and serve either hot or cold. Boiled Custard. — One quart milk, two tablespoons corn-starch, two eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, butter size of hickory-nut ; wet starch in a little of the milk, heat the remainder to near boiling in a tin pail set in boiling water. The proper heat will be indicated by a froth or film rising to the top ; add the starch till it thickens, stirring constantly, then add the eggs well-beaten with four tablespoons sugar, let it cook, stirring briskly, take off and beat well. Flavor to taste, and served with grated cocoa-nut it is elegant. Caramel Custard. — To make a baked custard, separate the whites and yolks of five eggs (or four), beat yolks well with a quar- ter pound (half tea-cup) sugar, add the well-beaten whites, and mix well with a quart milk. Flavor and then pour into buttered mold or cups. 8et immediately into a pan boiling hot water, in moder- ately hot oven. About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. When nicely browned and puffed up, touch the middle with a knife blade ; if it cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done ; take care not to overdo. This makes a plain custard. To make Caramel Custard, let stand until perfectly cool, turn out gently on a plate and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of hot oven ; the sugar soon melts and browns. Or, put half cup sugar in saucepan 120 CREAMS AXD CUfTARDS. over the fire, stir constantly until dissolved, pour into unbuttered pudding dish, tipping the dish so it will run round the sides, fill ■with custard and bake ; or some butter the mold carefully, sjirinkle sugar over bottom and set on stove to brown, pour in custard and bake; when turned out the caramel will l>e on top. Use less sugar for the custard when caranndcd if not liked very suxct. (4rated almonds or coaeoa-nut may be mldcd. A thinner custartl nu\y be made with less eggs, but it cannot l)o carameled unless baked in individual cups. Less eggs may also be us(>d by substituting a ])ortion of corn starch, boiled rice, gehitine or somdhing else to give llrnmess, l)ut the final- ity of custard will Ije impaired, leaking too rapidly or too long injures custard, hence do not scald milk and eggs before setting in oven, as many reconnriend. ])y billing in l)oiling water the temper- ature is regular, and scorcliing prevented. Boiled Caramel Cusinvfl. — One (piart milk, lialf cuj) sugar, six eggs, half teaspoon salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cup- ful. Beat the eggs, and add the cold milk to them. Stir the sugar in a small frying-]>an until it becomes liquid and just begins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk, then add the beaten eggs and cold milk, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. Chocolate Custard. — Break two sections chocolate in a half dozen pieces, put in a pan over boiling water with milk enough to barely cover ; mash and stir perfectly smooth, then add the rest of the milk (one quart in all, reserving three tablespoons in which to dissolve corn-starch) one cup sugar, yolks of six eggs, heaping table- spoon corn-starch ; beat yolks, add sugar and corn-starch (dissolved in milk), stir all sloAvly in the boiling milk in which the chocolate is dissolved, add pinch salt and let cook a few minutes, stirring con- stantlv. Serve cold in glasses with a meringue of whites of eggs on top, or only half fill glasses with custard and finish with whipped cream as in almond cake. Or pour this custard in a deep glass dish lined with pulped apples, sift powdered sugar over top and glaze with salamander iron. Coffee Custard. — Boil together a pint each fresh strong cofiee and cream and turn the mixture over eight eggs beaten up with one and one-half cups sugar, stirring rapidly, then set into boiling hot water and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens ; pour into cus- tard cups and serve cold with whipped cream or frothed whites of eggs on top. Cor)} Ileal Custard. — To the well beaten yolks of three eggs add a quart milk and tablespoon each butter and sugar; then add gradually scant three-quarters tea-cup fine corn meal, well shipped whites and flavor with nutmeg ; pour in cups, boil or steam fifteen minutes and brown delicately in oven ; or reserve whites of two eggs, CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 121 add to them two tablespoons sugar, cover tops and broAvn as above and serve hot or cold. Cup Custards. — One scant quart milk, four well-beaten eggs^ one cup sugar, flavor to taste; stir thoroughly together until sugar is dis- ^i^^St^^^^^^^I^^^ solved ; pour into cups and set in pan ^^^^g boiling hot water in oven to bake. -— bustard in cups. ~ They will be done in about thirty minutes. Serve cold in the cups. Fruit Custards. — Stew any kind of fruit almost to a jelly, strain off the juice, cool, and SAveeten to taste. To one quart sweet- ened juice add eight well-beaten eggs stirred into three pints new milk. Set in boiling water until it thickens, or bake twenty to thirty minutes. Serve in cups or a deep dish as preferred either hot or cold. Whipped whites of eggs over the top improves its appearance. Gelatine Custard. — To one-third package Cox's gelatine ndd a little less than one pint boiling water : stir until gelatine is dissolved, add juice one lemon, and one and a half cups sugar; strain through a jelly-strainer into dish for the table, and set in a cool place. For custard, to one and a half pints milk add yolks of four eggs (reserv- ing the whites), and four tablespoons sugar; cook and flavor when cool. When required for the table cut gelatine into small squares and pour the custard over them. Add four tablespoons powdered sugar to whites of four eggs well beaten, and when ready for the table place over the custard with a spoon. Lemon Custard. — Put the thin yellow rind of two lemons, with juice of three, and sugar to taste, into one pint warm water. As lemons vary in size and juiciness the exact quantity of sugar can not be given. Ordinary lemons require three gills. It Avill be safe to begin with tbis quantity and more may be added if required. Beat the Avhites to stiff froth, then the yolks, then beat both together^ pour in gradually while beating the other ingredients ; put all in a pail, set in a pot boiling water, and stir until thick as boiled custard. Strain in a deep dish ; when cool place on ice. Serve in glasses. Snow-hall Custard -Half package Cox's gelatine, three eggs, two cups sugar, juice one lemon ; soak gelatine one hour in cup cold water, add one pint boiling water, stir until thoroughly dissolved ; add two-thirds of the sugar and the lemon juice; beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and when the gelatine is quite cold whip it into the whites a spoonful at a time, beating from half an hour to an hour. Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff pour in a mold or in a dozen egg-glasses previously wet Avith cold Avater and set in a cold . place. In four or five hours place in a glass dish. Make a custard of one and one-half pints milk, yolks of eggs and remainder oi the sugar, flavor with vanilla and when the snow-balls are turned out of the mold pour this around the base. 122 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. CoGoa-mit Island. — Line with cake bottom and sides of dish in which dessert is to be served ; dissolve in custard kettle one pint sugar in half pint Avater, add one tablespoon corn-starch previously mixed smooth with a little water and well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; cook till it thickens, add juice of two lemons, heaping tablespoon butter and cook a few minutes then pour into dish ; grate one cocoa- nut, sweeten a little and put over the custard ; place a meringue of the well-beaten whites, half cup sugar and a few drops lemon juice in flakes over the top, brown delicately in oven and serve either hot or cold. A nice w^ay is to make in souffle dish, or baking dish that will fit and serve in silver receptacle, or use a fancy dish and brown top with salamander iron as directed in souffles. Floating Island. — ^lake custard of yolks of six eggs, one quart milk, small pinch salt, sugar to taste ; beat and strain yolks before adding to milk ; place custard in a large tin pan and set in stove, stirring constantly until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or rose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread smoothly over the boiling hot custard the well-beaten whites, grating some loaf sugar (some add grated cocoa-nut) on top ; set the dish in a pan of ice-water and serve cold ; or turn into glasses ^ and serve with whipped cream or ~ frothed whites of egg on top, finishing with lump of jelly in Jam Floating Island. ccnter. ' Souie prcparc tlic whltcs by placing a tablespoon at a time on boiling water or milk, lifting them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and laying them gently on the float. Do not crowd them while cooking. This is the "old reliable recipe." Another way of serving is to pour the above cus- tard over slices of small round sponge cakes, spread with fruit jelly and placed in ice cream saucers, piling a spoonful whipped cream on top of each ; or cut sponge cake in slices and lay them on a round dish on the top of the custard. On this put a layer of apri- cots or currant jam, and some more slices of cake. Pile upon this very high a wliip made of damson or other jam and the whites of four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruits or sweetmeats. Still another beautiful and delicious island is made by whipping whites four eggs very stiff and beating with one tumbler jelly, adding one pint powdered sugar gradually, then beating the whole until perfectly stiff. Chill on ice and serve by half filling a ^lass dish with milk and cover it with the island in spoonfuls stand- mg in peaks. To be eaten with sweetened cream. Moonshine. — This dessert combines a pretty appearance with palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 123 whites of six eggs to very stiff froth, add gradually six tablespoons powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), beating not less than thirty minutes, then beat in about one heaping tablespoon preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. Hidden Mountain. — Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, three-quarters pint cream, a layer of any kind of jam ; beat whites and yolks of eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding citron, cream and sugar ; when well-beaten put in a buttered pan and fry ; cover with the jam and garnish with slices of citron; to be eaten cold. Orange Float. — One quart water, the juice and pulp two lemons, one coffee-cup sugar ; Avhen boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the beaten white of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. Trifle. — In the bottom of a deep glass bovv'l place bits of sponge cake, it matters not how stale, cut into squares or strips ; a small piece of preserved citron cut into slices ; soak these in cream nicely flavored, then fill the bowl to Avithin half an inch of the top with boiled custard, rich and cold ; lastly, heap the bowl up high with Avhipped cream or Avhites of eggs, ^8^ and place on it nuts, fruits or jelly, cut in thin slices, ^^ so that they will not sink into the cream. ~" Trifle. Amhushed TriHe. — Take a round stale sponge cake, cut the top from it in one piece and lay it aside. With sharp knife carefully remove inside of cake leaving sides and bottom about an inch thick and coat well v/ith sweet jelly or jam ; crab-apple jelly is very nice. Scald a pint milk, beat three eggs with two tablespoons powdered sugar, and stir into milk when almost boiling ; crumb the cake taken out and beat into the hot custard ; return to the hot fire and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth, then add one teaspoon corn-starch wet wdth a little milk, cook a minute longer and take from fire ; when nearly cold flavor with vanilla, lemon, or bitter almond, and fill the cake with it. Cover inside of the lid of cake laid aside with jelly, and fit neatly into its place. Brush the whole cake with white of an egg, sift poAvdered sugar thickly over it, or frost Avith plain or boiled frosting, and set in a cool, dry place until wanted. A simple, delightful dessert. Lemon Trifle. — Strain juice two lemons over one large cup sugar and grated rind of one lemon and let stand tAvo hours ; then 124 SOUFFLES. add one cup juico of any fruit preferred, and a little nutmeg. Strain and whip into it gradually a pint sweet cream that has been whipped stifT. Serve in jelly glasses and send around with cake. Should be eaten soon after it is made. Souffles. The extreme lightness and delicacy of a well-made soufHe ren- der it a general favorite. It may be varied greatly in its composition and is commonly served under the name of the flavoring used. Vanilla is one of the most delicate flavorings for this elegant dish. The secret of making a souffle well is to have the eggs well whipiDed, particularly the Avhites, using for them a perfectly dry dish and beater as the slightest moisture vAW prevent their coming to a froth, and unless the froth of egg be very stifT the omelette souffle will be made heavy by it and so spoiled. Put all ingredients together quickly but gently, stirring, not beating, and if to be baked place in oven as soon as lohltes are added in a buttered souffle dish or pan, filling only half full, as it will rise very light. Do not have the oven too hot nor open oven door for the first quarter of an hour, at least. When the souffle has risen very high, is of a fine yellow color, and quite done in the center, as it will be in from a half to three-c^uarters of an hour, send immedi- ately to table, for if alloAved to stand it Avill sink in the center and its appearance and goodness be entirely spoiled. To keep hot, and .--o preserve its lightness, the souffle is often carried to table on a hot shovel, or Avith a hot salamander iron held over it, and placed in tli' ornamental dish already on the tablr, ^^__^ ^^ and served in a diimer of ceremony as salamander. an entremert, a remove of the second course roast, or for luncheon; quickly hand it round instead of placing on the table. The sala- mamler, or braising iron, is a very convenient utensil for browning the tups of boiled souffles, puddings and the mermgues spread over creams, blanc-manges, or puddings to be served cold, or in glass SOUFFLES. 125 dishes, doing away with the necessity of placing them in the oven. CI ...j ^^^'F^l l The souffle pan may be of either earthen ware P -^'^-^-^4- ._ J or tin, and should be about three inches deep, ^^^^^^^^ fitting into an ornamental dish for serving, ^1^ ^!^ "'_^^^^^ j^ which is usually of silver. This article will 1^ ^^r - ;. be found very convenient, as it may be used y^^^^^^^^^"'' for custards, puddings, scalloped oysters, Ornamental Souffle Dish. potato crcam, or auy dlsh scrvcd in the pan in which it is baked. Souffles may, however, be baked in any deep tin or earthen baking pan, which may be sent to table on a plate or platter, surrounded by a neatly folded napkin. Apple SouMe. — One pint steamed apples, pulped ; one tablespoon meltecl butter, half cup sugar, whites of six eggs and yolks of three, a slight grating of nutmeg, and a little lemon peel. Stir into the hot apple the butter, sugar and nutmeg, and the yolks of the eggs, well-beaten. When this is cold, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir into the mixture. Butter a three-pint dish, and turn the souffle into it. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve immediately with any kind of sauce. Cheese SouMe. — Melt a tablespoon butter, stir into it two table- spoons flour, add one gill milk and stir until boiling; throw in one- half teaspoon each salt and white pepper and a grain Cayenne ; take from fire and stir in one by one yolks of three eggs and three ounces grated cheese, beating the whole thoroughly, then add well-frothed whites four eggs, stirring so carefully as not to beat down the froth ; bake in cups in quick oven ten minutes. Serve in the cups on hot plate the moment the souffle is done, placing them in a napkin folded in basket shape upon the table. Chestnut SouMe. — Throw one pint fresh chestnuts into boiling water and boil until shells begin to crack open. Take from the water, remove shells and inner skins, pound in a mortar and make perfectly smooth by passing them through a sieve. Pour one pint milk over the chestnut-flour and stirring these together put the mixture into a small saucepan and let it cook over a slow fire ten minutes, melt a tablespoon butter and stir into it two tablespoons flour; turn this into the milk and chestnuts, and the instant the mixture boils take from fire and add two tal)lespoons powdered sugar, yolks three eggs, and beat all well together ; stir in lightly the stiffly frothed whites of four eggs, pour into well-greased souffle pan and "bake in moderate oven tAventy minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. Chicken SouMe. — Take the breast of one raw chicken, chop fine, and pound in a mortar, melt a half tablespoon butter and stir into it one tablespoon each flour and sweet cream ; when boiling take from lire 126 BOurrLEs. and pour over the mixture in the mortar adding one egg ; pound well together, season with pepper and salt and pass through a sieve; whip a gill of cream (less the tablespoon used) to a froth and add to the mixture ; liave ready two truffles, cut into stars, and place one star in the bottom of each buttered cup-tin, fill half full of the souffle mixture, cover with greased paper, put into a pan boiling water and let them simmer slowly fifteen minutes; when done turn out on hot platter, leaving truffles uppermost, and serve at once. Chocolate SouMe. — Break four eggs, whites and yolks sepa- rately ; add to the yolks three teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon flour ; three ounces chocolate, grated, and stir rai)idly five minutes ; whip whites of eggs till firm and add them to the other ingredients. But- ter the souffle pan, put in the mixture and bake in moderate oven fifteen or twenty minutes ; strew sugar over and serve immediately, carr3'ing to table with hot salamander over the top. Another excel- lent chocolate souffle is made by melting one large tablespoon butter, stirring into it over the fire two tablespoons flour, adding a gill of milk, and when boiling remove from the stove, add nine tablespoons grated chocolate and a heaping tablespoon sugar, and drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stirring briskly all the time ; whip whites of four eggs and stir in last very lightly ; pour the mixture into the souffle pan, set in a pan of hot water reacliing halfway up its sides, cover and simmer on back of range thirty minutes without uncover- ing ; when done, brown with salamander, set pan into souffle dish or envelop in a najikin ; serve at once. Or to the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add half pint butter, cup flour, pint milk and half cup grated chocolate ; bake in souffle dish in hot oven ; serve at onee. Chocolate SouMe. (Cold). — Two cups milk, one and a half squares Baker's chocolate, three-fourths cup powdered sugar, two tablespoons corn-starch, three eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk in double boiler, leaving out third of a cup to mix with the corn starch. After mixing, stir into the boiling milk and cook eight minutes. Dissolve the chocolate with half a cu]) of the sugar and two tablespoons boiling water ; add to the other mixture; beat the yolks and add them and the salt. Cook two minutes. Set in cold water and beat until cool, then add flavor and pour into a dish ; beat whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add the remaining sugar and heap on the custard. Dredge with sugar and brown with a salamander or hot shovel. Cream SouiHe. — Four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract, one cup cream, whipped. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and gradually add sugar ana flavoring to them. When Avcll-beaten add yolks, and lastly the whipped cream. Have a dish holding about one quart slightly buttered. Pour the mixture into this and bake Jws^ twelve minutes. Serve the mo- ment it is taken from the oven. SOUFFLES. 127 Jelly SouMe. — Boil one quart milk and add three tablespoons corn-starch wet with a little cold milk ; stir one minute and pour into a bowl over beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of two, and one- half cup powdered sugar ; whip two or three minutes, put into but- tered dish, set in pan of boiling water in oven and bake half an hour, or until firm. Just before taking out cover quickly with jelly or jam and over this put a meringue of the four whites of eggs and a half cup powdered sugar. Close oven doors for a moment till meringue is slightly colored. When cold serve with cream. Lemon Soitiffe. — Melt two tablespoons butter and stir into it four tablespoons flour ; add one ounce arrowroot, four tablespoons sugar and one pint milk (having previously taken one gill of the milk in which to steep the thin yellow rind of a lemon for flavoring), stir until it boils and Avhen boiling strain into it the milk from the lemon rinds. Set aside and when slightly cool drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stir well together and add the frothed whites of five eggs, stirring them in very lightly. Turn quickly into souffle pan, cover and set in boiling water ; draAV to back of range and let simmer three-quarters of an hour, keeping closely covered. Serve when done as quickly as possible. Macaroon. SouMe. — Soak one-third box gelatine in half cup water two hours, then set over hot water and stir until dissolved, strain and stir it into one pint juice of any kind of fruit preferred. Add a half cup sugar, or sweeten to taste, place the pan on ice and as soon as the mixture begins to thicken whip until it hardens like jelly ; set away on ice. Brown ten macaroons in oven, cool them and roll fine. Just before ready to serve make any soft custard liked, omitting the flavoring, turn it into a scuffle dish, heap the fruit jelly on this and cover with the macaroon crumbs. Omelette SouMe. — Cream yolks of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar in a deep bowl and flavor as wished ; add Avell-frothed whites of six eggs, and with a spoon, giving it a rotary motion, cut the two, mixing carefully together; turn on the souffle dish (or any baking dish) slightly buttered, smooth, sprinkle with sugar and bake in moderate oven ; when risen well and of fine yellow color, serve ; or, for Fruit Omelette SouMe add to the well frothed whites of three eggs a tablespoon marmalade or fresh peaches cut in fine i^ieces, mix with powdered sumt and bake in a rather quick oven ; or place a layer of marmalade on bottom of dish and pour the omelette souffle over and bake. Omelette SouMe — Put one pint milk over the fire, reserving suffi- cient to wet up three heaping tablespoons potato flour, rice flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, as preferred, stir this into the milk, add piece of butter size of walnut, and sweeten to taste. Stir over the fire un- til it thickens, then take ofif and cool a little. Separate the whites 128 SOUFFLES. from the yolks of four eggs, beat the yolks, and stir them into the soutUe batter. Whisk the whites of eggs to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the exeellenoe of the dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a (l^w drops of essenee of any flavor- ing preferred ; })our the batter into a souffle dish, i)Ut it immediately into the oven, and bake about half an hour ; then take out and put the dish into the more ornamental one, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffle, sti'ew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to table. Another delicious souffle is made by beating yolks of four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt and tablespoon flavor- ing together, and adding quickly the well- y^^ frothed whites. Have a large omelette pan ^g gr ~~ j^^^^ very hot. Put in one tablespoon butter and ^pI^Tg;-^^^*'^ pour in half the mixture. Shake rapidly for ^--^^ —^^'^ a minute ; then fold and turn on a hot dish. Omelette Pan. Put the remainder of tlic butter and mixture in the pan and proceed as before. Turn this omelette on the dish by the side of the other. Dredge lightly with sugar, and i)lace in oven for eight minutes. Serve the moment it comes from oven. Orange SouMe. — Peel and slice six oranges, put in a glass dish a layer of oranges ; then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks of three eggs, pint milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel for flavor, and i)Our over the oranges Avhen cool enough not to break dish; beat whites of eggs to stiff" froth, stir in sugar and put over the top ; mav be browned with salamander iron or hot shovel. Praised by all. Potato SouMe. — Clean well with a brush and bake four large potatoes, cut off the tops, scoop out the inside, taking care not to break the skins ; rub the potato through a sieve and add to it a half gill of boiling milk into which a tablespoon of butter and half teaspoon each salt and white pejiper have been stirred ; continue stirring until ^^|j|^^^ potato becomes hot, take from the fire and drop in potMosoume. the yolks of three eggs, stirring each one thoroughly with the potato mi^;"ture ])efore dropping in another ; lastly, stir in lightly the frothed whites of five eggs, being careful not to break the froth; fill the potato skins two-thirds full of this mixture, stand upright in a pan, and ])ake in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The souffle will be done wlicn the finger can be pressed upon it and withdrawn without any adhering. Serve on hot platter. CONFECTIONERY. 129 COISTFECTIONERY. There are very few moclern kitchens in which some cooking utensils may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce- pan of tinned iron, with a handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept (juite clean. Dissolve four jiounds white sugar (granulated sugar is preferred) in one quart water, place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum- arabic dissolved together, or white of an egg; all the impurities which rise to the surface skim off at once. To make the clarifying process still more perfect, strain through a flannel bag. Another way to ^"^^^^ clarify sugar or syrup is to put two pounds sugar, one pint water, and well-beaten white of an egg into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan. When sugar is dissolved place over the fire, and when it boils throw in a cup cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. Bring to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan on back of stove or range to settle. Remove all scum and the syrup will be ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what sAa'up runs from it may be boiled up again ; this must also be well skiinmed. It will take about twenty minutes for the sugar to dis- ijolve, and five minutes to boil. After clarifying confectioners pre- pare different degrees of sugars as follows : 130 COXFECTIOXERY. Candy or Thread Sugar. — Having clarified the sugar put syrup over the fire and let boil until smooth, dip a skimmer into sugar, touch it with thumb and and fore-finger; first di|)ping them in Avater, and instantly open them, when a fine short thread of sugar will form; a few minutes' more l»oiling and the thread will l)e longer and stronger, and has attained the first degree. SouMe Sugar. — Boil the syrup still longer, then dip in the skimmer and blow off the syrup. If boiled long enough bubbles will form on the holes of the skim- mer. The second degree is reached. Feathered Sugar. — Boil still longer, again dip the skimmer, shake it, and give a sudden flirt ; if boiled enough the sugar will fly off like small feathers or down. Crackling Sugar. — Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick into the pan and plunging into cold water the sugar snaps and l)ecomes instantly hard. Caramel or Spun Sugar. — First boil one pound sugar and one gill water together very quickly over a clear fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep boiling until it snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree ; then squeeze in a little lemon-juice and let remain an instant on the fire ; then set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is ready foruse. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with this sugar, which with a fork should l)e spread over them in fine threads or network. A dish of light paste, tastefully arranged, looks very pretty witli this sugar spun lightly over it, and it makes an elegant coloring for any sweetmeats. The sugar must be care- fully watched, and taken up the instant it is clone. Unless one is very experienced and thoroughly understands the work, it is scarcely ^vorth Avhile to atteni])t this elaborate ornament, yet if these direc- tions are carefully followed one may be successful. To make rock candy, boil the .^yrup a few moments, allow to cool, anrl crystalliza- tion takes place on the sides of the vessel. To make other candies, bring the syrup very carefully to such a degree of heat that the "threads" which drop from the spoon when raised into the colder air Avill snap like glass. "When this stage is reached add a teaspoon of vinegar or cream tartar to prevent "graining,"' and pour into pans as directed in the recipes which follow. Butter should be put in when candy is almost done, and flavors are more delicate when added just after taking from the fire. To make round stick candies, pull, and roll into shape witli well-floured hands as soon as cool CONFECTIONERY. 131 enough to handle. In making candy into flat sticks, squares, or an}- shape, indent it when partially cool with a warm knife rubbed with butter, and when cold it will separate easily. Colored candies are often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be avoided. In making meringues, trifles and kisses, use fine powdered sugar (" Confectioners' XXX " is the best grade) and provide a cone-shaped bag of strong, heavy linen or ticking — or for once using, strong brown paper will do — through a hole in the small end put a funnel-shaped tin tube one- half inch in diameter at the small end, and pro- vided with a flange at the other to prevent it Menngue Bag. from slipping quite through (these tubes are of various shapes for kisses, trifles, lady-fingers, etc.), tie the small end of the bag firmly around the tube, and holding bag in right hand squeeze the mixture through in shapes desired, using a good deal of pressure if cakes are to be large, but if small very little will do. Bake in a very mod- erate oven, or let dry in cool oven for two hours. The oven for meringues, kisses, etc., should be slower than for angel cake, and kept at an even temperature ; if meringues are exposed to much heat they will be s})oiled. When powdered almonds are to be used, they should be thoroughly dried in the open air after blanching, and they Avill pulverize more easily. In making macaroons or di'ops, or pulling butter-scotch or taffy, butter hands lightly to prevent stick- ing. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to the candy. Blanched almonds should always be prepared the day before wanted that they may become perfectly dry before using. To blanch them, shell and put them into hot water after it comes to a boil, and let boil a few minutes, then throw them into cold water, slip off the skins and dry in the open air. Never dry them in the oven, which takes away the oil. Shelled ahnonds are more economical for use in cakes or confectionery. One pound of unshelled almonds only makes six and one-half ounces or one coffee-cupful when shelled, while the shelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes not that per pound. The Princess is the best variety to buy in the shell. The bitter almond is considered injurious to animal life and should be used with great caution. Of the shelled sweet almonds the Jordan is the finest, though the Bicely is good. To prepare 132 CONFECTIOXERY. ap.Tf cocoanut make an incision through the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set pieces in heater or in a cool, open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to dry — or better in open air, as too much heat dries the oil — then grate ; if all is not used, sprinkle witli sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry ])lace, and it will keep for weeks. Dessicated cocoanut may always be used in place of the fresh, first moistening slightly with milk. If one is at hand use the lal)or-saving grater for grating . _,. .-^^.^ cocoa-nut and almonds, for which it is de- Laur- avrng firat^r. signed, as well as for pumpkins, horse-radish, and such other arti- cles as need treatment on a coarse grater. It is fastened to a strong frame which is screwi-d to a table, and as will be readily seen does its work with great rapidity. This is as great an improvement in its way as the modern egg beater is over a spoon. For sending away home-made confections or bride's cake very pretty little satin satch- ets are made, which are of course much more highly prized by the recipients than the fancy boxes for that purpose to be had of confectioners. The white wire candy tongs illustrated are an excellent substi- tute for silver, where the latter can net be ^^"^y Tong^. afforded, for use in serving candies provided for dessert. Butter- Scotch. — Three pounds "coffee A" sugar, fourth pound butter, half teaspoon cream tartar, eight drops extract lemon ; add as much cold water as will dissolve the sugar; boil Avithout stirring till it Avill easily break when dropped in cold water, and when done add lemon ; have a dripping-pan well buttered and pour in one-fourth inch thick, and wlien partly cold mark ofl' in squares as directed in preface. If })ulled when partly cold till very white, it will be like ice-cream candy. Hoarhound Candy. — Boil two ounces dried hoarhound in a pint and a half water for about half an hour; strain and add three and a half pounds brown sugar ; boil over a hot fire until it is sufficiently hard, pour out in flat, well-greased tin trays, and mark into sticks or small squares as above. Lemon Candy. — Take a pound loaf sugar and a large cup water, CONFECTIONERY, 133 and after cooking over a slow fire half an hour clear with a little hot vinegar, take off the scum as it rises, testing by raising with a spoon, and when the " threads " will snap like glass pour into a tin pan and when nearly cold mark in narrow strips with a knife. Before pour- ing into the pans, chopped cocoa-nut, almonds, peanuts, hickory- nuts, or Brazil-nuts cut in slices, may be stirred into it. Ma2'>le Candy. — Three and a half pounds or two quarts maple sugar, one and a half pints water ; mix in a vessel large enough to hold the candy when expanded by heat ; boil over a brisk fire taking care that it does not burn. The heat should be applied at bottom and not at sides. When it boils up throw in a little cold water, take from fire and skim well, and do this as often as impurities arise. After boiling fifteen minutes remove a small portion of the melted sugar with a spoon and cool by placing in a saucer set in cold water. When cool enough take a portion between thumb and finger and if it forms a "string" or " thread " as they are separated, the process is nearly done, and great care must be used to control the heat so that the boiling may be kept up without burning. Test frequenthjhy dropping a bit into cold w\ater placed near ; if it becomes hard and brittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done. Stir in a teaspoon cream tartar or tablespoon vinegar, remove from stove at once and pour into shallow dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, covering each thinly. Cool until it can be handled, pull to any length or width desired and finish as directed in preface ; indent, separate or roll into sticks or make any desired shapes. Begin pulling as soon as possible, as it is more brittle than molasses candy. Molasses Candy. — Two cups molasses, one cup brown sugar and butter half the size of a walnut ; boil twenty minutes, then add two teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda and one tablespoon vinegar. Pull till light. Taffy: Two tablespoons vinegar, four of water, six of sugar (wliite is nicest); boil twenty minutes and pour into a buttered plate. Peanut Candy. — Boil two pounds brown sugar, one gill good molasses and a half pint water until it hardens in cold Avater when dropped from a spoon, and add two teaspoons vanilla, a teaspoon soda (dry) and four^quarts skinned peanuts (measured before they are shelled). Turn into shallow, well-buttered pans and press down smootli with wooden spoon. When partially cold cut into strips. Unrivalled of its kind. For other nut candy use walnuts, hickory- nuts or almonds. Another way is to fill a buttered tin tray to the depth of about an inch with the nuts, and pour, over them just enough of the candy mixture to barely cover ; cool and mark as directed _ Cocoa-nut Patties. — Rasp a good fresh cocoa-nut on a grater, letting none of the rind fall. Spread the cocoa-nut thus grated on 134 CONFECTIOXERY. a dish and let it stand in pome cool, dry place two days to dry grad- ually. Add to it double its -vveipfht of sifted powdered sugar, the whites of six eggs, well- whipped, and a cup flour to every pound Cocoa-nut Pattk".. sugar. Drop the mixture on a baking-tin, a spoonful at a time, or into drop-cake tins. Bake in very gentle oven aljout twenty minutes, take from tins while warm and Avhen cold put away in close tin box or can. Bergamot Drops. — One pound sifted granulated sugar, one gil bergamot water, mixed well over the fire about five minutes. Drop in very round drops on paper. Centennial Drops. — "White of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, quarter pound pulverized sugar, half teaspoon baking powder ; flavor with lemon ; butter tins and droj) with teaspoon aljout three inches apart; bake in a slow oven and serve with ice-cream. This is also a very nice recipe for icing. CJiocolate Drops. — Scrape or grate chocolate to a powder, and mix one ounce of it with each pound sugar used ; make into paste with cold water and boil up gently. Drop on thick white paper from a spoon to cool and dry. Coifee Drops made same way, allow- ing one ounce finely powdered coffee to one pound sugar. Cinnamon Drops. — Put one ounce cinnamon in a mortar, sift- ing it afterwards through a fine hair or silk sieve ; mix with it over thiC stove a pound loaf sugar moistened with a very little water. Take the mixture up in a teaspoon and drop on stiff white writing paper. Let them get cold and they Avill come off easily. Make Clove Drops same way. Cocoa-nvt Drops. — One pound co<'oa-nut, half pound powdered sugar, and the white of an egg ; work all together and roll into little balls in the hand ; bake on buttered tins. Fresh Damson Drops. — Bake some damsons, skin, stone and strain through a sieve. Mix enough sifted powdered sugar to make a thin paste, drop on paper and let' them get quite dry ; then put thorn on a sieve, wetting it a little or they will stick. They must again dry on a stave and be kept in a box. G'niger Drops. — Pound and sift as much ginger as you wish the drops to taste of, and stir with one pound loaf sugar and a little water over the fire until it boils up. Drop and dry on paper. Lemon Drops. — Squeeze the juice from six good lemons and add sifted loaf sugar mitil so stiff it can hardly be stirred ; put in shallow saucf'i^an and stir over the fire five minutes. Drop fi"om a spoon on thick paper. CONFECTIONERY. 135 Lemon and Peppermint Drops. — Set a quantity of granulated sugar and a little water over the fire in a sauceiian with a lip, in the proportion of two ounces water to one pound sugar. It must not come to a full boil, but remove from stove just as the bubbles that denote the boiling point is reached begin to form ; let cool a little, stirring rapidly, add strong essence lemon or peppermint to taste, and drop as uniformly as possible on sheets of manilla paper, tilting the vessel slightly and stroking off the drops from the lip Avith bit of stiff wire or a spoon. Keep in a Avarni place for a few hours to dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting juice of fresh fruits for essence, or using any other essence preferred. Orange Drops. — Squeeze out the juice of three good lemons, adding some sifted powdered sugar ; grate six small sweet oranges, put all in a shallow pan on the fire till it is of a nice thickness, stir continuously with a wooden s})oon five or six minutes. Take the mixture from the fire and drop it on thick white paper in small drops. Orgeai Drops. — Pound Avell in a mortar four ounc(?s blanched almonds, moistening with a little Avater, and make a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, strain the Avhole through a cloth, moisten with half pound powdered sugar and form into drops on paper to dry. Strawberry Z^r^y;*.— One-half pound each juice and powdered sugar, well-frothed whites of two eggs ; mix all together and drop on tins, putting in very cool oven to dry. Any Fresh Fruit Drops made same way. Evsrton Cream Can(h/. — Squeeze juice of one large lemon into a cup ; boil one and one-half pounds moist white sugar, two ounces butter, one and a half cups water, together Avith half the rind of the lemon, and when done (which may be knoAvn by its becoming C[uite crisp Avhen dropped into cold water) set aside till boiling has ceased and then stir in the juice of the lemon, butter a dish and pour in about an inch thick ; when cool take out peel (which may be dried), pull until white, draw out into sticks and check about four inches long, with a knife. If you have no lemons, take two tablespoons vinegar and two teaspoons lemon extract. The fire must be quick and the candy stirred all the time. French Cream Candy. — Put into a saucepan one pint water to each pound sugar ; boil carefully, for upon this depends the success of the candies; when it has boiled ten minutes (do not stir while boiling) it is time to try it ; drop from the spoon into a bowl of ice water and if when it falls to the bottom you can take it up between the thumb and finger into a soft ball, which must not be sticky, it is at the right point. Set from the fire, and if Avhen cool a thin, jelly 136 CONFECTIONERY. like film forms over the surface, it is properly done, and the candy may be made ; but if the coating over the top seems at all sugary aud the candy is wanted creamy and nice, a few spoonfuUs of water must be added and the eyrup returned to the fire and boiled until the proper consistency is reached, which test as before. Do not let it become the least brittle ; if it does, add water and cook again. A pinch of cream tartar helps to check the tendency to return to sugar. When the syrup is perfectly done and cooled so that the finger may be borne in it, beat rapidly wdth a spoon, and in ten minutes it should be a white paste resembling lard, which can be worked like bread dough. This is the foundation for all fine candies and is called by French confectioners Fondant. The simplest French candies are made from this by coloring yellow and flavoring with lemon, or pink and flavoring with raspberry, and working into balls, cones, shells, grooved cones, or any shape fancy dictates, and letting them stand until they harden. Or into the pink colored fondant work chopped English walnuts, flavor with vanilla, press into oiled paper cases an inch wide and deep, and three or four inches long, and when firm turn out and cut into cubes for Walnut Creams. Or use chopped almond, leaving the paste white, flavor with vanilla, and make Vanilla Almond Cream.. Work into a piece of the paste or f\mdant chopped almonds, citron, a few currants and seedless raisins, flavor with lemon, vanilla or raspberry, shape in ];nper forms and the result is T^itti Frutil Candy. One should bring into use the inventive faculties and with the above as helps make as niany other varieties as Avished. A very handsome variety is called Ii'ihlon Cream Candy and is made thus : Divide a quantity of the paste prepared as directed into three equal parts, leaving one white, color one pink with cochineal and another brown with melted chocolate, flavoring each to taste ; divide thebroAvn and white into two parts, making into strips an inch and a half Avide ; make the pink also into a strip of same Avidth and length, Avhich will leave it twice as thick as the others. Lay a strip of the brown on a j^iece of manilla. or buttered or waxed paper, then a strip of Avhite on that, then the pink, then the Avhite, and finish Avith the brown ; press lightly to make them adhere but do not squeeze out of shape ; leave a fcAV hours to harden, trim smoothly Avith a knife and cut crosswise into slices half an inch thick, lay on Avaxed or manilla paper to dry, turning occasionally, and pack aAvay in boxes. If the paste becomes hard while Avorking, let it stand over hot water a fcAV ininutes ; or if Avished fresh for dessert, do not divide the colors but form into a small brick, as .in cut, Avith brown layer first, then the pink, Avith Avhite on top. Place on small fruit plate and Berve by cutting in thin slices. Cream Walnuts or Almonds are made by shelling and drying mbboa cream caady. the nuts and then dipping into the paste, first melted oA'er boil CONFECTIONERY. 137 ing water until it is like cream. If the nut shows through the cream it is too hot and must be set out of the water and beaten until cool and thick enough to thorotighlij coat the nuts. If it hardens return to the boiling water. Dry the creamed nuts on manilla papei-. Another variety of nut candy is made by rolling the paste into balls and placing half a whole kernel of walnut, almond, or other nuts on each side, pressing it in until it adheres firmly. Chocolate Creams are made by boiling a half pound sugar and three tablespoons thick, sweet cream, till it makes a soft ball in water ; let it cool, then beat till it is very white, flavor with a few drops vanilla and make into balls size of a small marble ; M-arm some unsweetened chocolate and mix it with a piece of the melted paste (using more chocolate than paste) until quite smooth and thick enough to coat the creams. Drop the balls into this with a fork and take them out to dry on waxed paper. French Cream CaiuJi/ (Uncooked). — Used by all confectioners. Mix whites of two eggs and their bulk in water in a large bowl ; beat very well, add a dessert-spoon vanilla and about two pounds "XXX" confectioners' sugar finest grade of powdered sugar), well sifted, beat well, and the paste is ready Take one-half pound dates, remove stones, put in a piece of the candy paste and roll each one in granulated sugar. For Fig Candu^ split one-half pound figs ;ind place a layer of the dough on a board, first sprinkled well with powdered sugar to prevent its adhering, then a layer of figs, again a layer of dough, and cut in squares. Nuts of any kind may be made up into candy by using the meats for the foundation or inside of little balls of paste, and then roll in coarse sugar; set each kind out in a cool place to harden. For Chocolate Creams roll any number of balls size of small marbles from the dough and when they are hardened dip with a fork into some baker's chocolate melted on the stove. Be careful not to allow it to boil ; better to melt in a little cup placed in pan of hot water on the stove. Cocoa-nut Candy may be made by rolling out another portion of the dough on the floured board, sprinkle with cocoa-nut, roll a few times with the roller, and cut into squares. A mixture of cocoa-nut and nuts chopped fine makes a delicious candy. ¥ ox English Walnut Candy split the walnuts, shape some of the dough into round flat balls, place a half of the nut on each side and press firmly. Use hickory- nut meats for Hickory-n ut Candy. This candy is now being made in society circles a good deal, as there is no cooking to be done and it is very easy and clean work. A dollar's worth of all the ingredi- ents together will make many pounds of candy. Lemon Cream Candy. — Steep grated peel of one lemon in juice of two one houi and strain, squeezing cloth hard to get out all the strength ; boil six pounds best white sugar with three cups water until it hardens in cold water; stir in the lemon juice, boil one min- 138 CONFECTIONERY. ute, add one teaspoon dry soda, stirring in well, and turn out upon broad, Blmllow, buttered dishes. Pull as soon as can be handled into long white ropes and cut into lengths when brittle. Use same recipe, substituting vanilla tiuvoring instead of lemon for Vanilla Cream Candy. Chocolate Caramels. — One cup chocolate shaved fine, one cup molasses or brown sugar, half cup milk or one cup cream, one cup sugar ; when nearly done, if milk is used, add apiece of butter size of a walnut; when cream is used no butter will be needed ; slir until perfeetly dissolved but not after it begins to boil, as that will make it grain; it is done when it hardens and becomes brittle when dropped in cold Avater, but do not make too hard ; grease plates with butter, pour it on about half an inch thick ; when nearly cool cut with a buttered knife into small squares. Chocolate Caramel a.- — One ana a half cups grated chocolate four of brown sugar, one and a half of cold water, piece of butter size of an egg, tables))oon very sharp vinegar ; if liked, flavor with two tablespoons vanilla just before removing from fire; do not stir, but shake the vessel gently while cooking ; boil on the top of stove over a brisk lire until it becomes brittle when, tried in Avater ; pour into a well buttered and floured dripping-pan, and check off in squares while soft. Cocoa-nut Caramels. — One pint milk, butter size of an egg, one cocoa-nut grated fine (or dessicated cocoa-nut may be used), three pounds white sugar, two teaspoons lemon; boil slowly until stifl' (some then Ijeat to a cream), pour into shallow pans and Avhen partly cold cut in squares, The butter may be omitted. Cocoa-md Cones. — Pound one pound blanched and shelled almonds in a mortar with whites of twelve eggs till smooth. Prepare and grate three large cocoa-nuts, and with three pounds sugar work into the pounded almonds and eggs, mold into cones size of an English walnut, place on buttered paper a little distance apart and bake in moderate oven. Dust with powdered sugar before baking, if liked. Maple Chocolate Cream s.-'Two and a half cups maple sugar, one- half cup cold water or cream ; boil initil it makes a soft ball in cold water ;]»lace the saucepan in cold water, and bi'at till cold enough to make into little balls ; take half a cake of Baker's chocolate, shave off fine, put in bowl on top of boiling tea-kettle to melt, and Avhen balls are cool enough, roll in the chocolate with a fork. This makes eighty. Or while making into balls, mold an almond-meat into the center of each ball, roll in coarse sugar, and you have delicious Cream Almonds. Or, mold the unbroken halves of walnut-meats into the soft sugar, and when cold, roll in the chocolate. When finished, take out and lay on buttered paper until cold CONFECTIONERY. 139 Kisses. — Beat wJiites of four smaii eggs to a high, firm froth, stir into it a half pound sifted powdered sugar, two teaspoons at a time, flavor with essence of lemon or rose, and heat very light ; then squeeze through the meringue or confectioner's hag heretofore described (using tube like one in cut if you have it), or drop half the size of an egg a little more than an inch apart on ma- nilla paper spread over a half inch board, previousl}^ soaked in cold water, and place in moderate oven. As soon as they begin to look yellowish take them out. Almond JJacaroons. — One pound blanched almonds ground very fine with a little sugar to keep from oiling, rub whites of twelve eggs, without whipping, into the almonds until perfectly smooth. Add one and one-half pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces corn- starch and two ounces flour, stirring each in grad- ually and thoroughly ; make into balls with a knife or meringue bag, place on ungreased papers on tins and with a pastry brush dampen each one and Chocolate Macaroons are Macaroons. pat into shape before putting in oven. made in exactly the same manner,working two ounces chocolate cooked with one-half cup water* and one ounce sugar into the almond macaroon pastry Brush. paste when ready to make into balls. Make Ilicliory-imt and Pecan Macaroons in same way, taking the finely-chopped nut meats instead of almonds, and omitting the flour, using four ounces corn-starch. jucmon Macaroons. — One pound powderea sugar, four eggs whipped very light, juice of three lemons and grated peel of one, one heaping cup flour, heaping teaspoon baking powder, one-half teaspoon nutmeg; butter the hands, take up small lumps of the mixture and make into balls the size of a walnut. Bake in brick oven on sheets of manilla paper, placing them more than two inches apart. Pi/rarnid of Macaroons. — Boil loaf sugar to the candy point (see preface candy), rul) butter over the outside of the tin or paper form, set firmly on a plate <3r table, and begin at the bottom by putting a row macaroons around it, sticking them to- ^f-ther with the prepared sugar, then adding aaother row, and so on until finished. When the cement is cold the pyramid may be taken from cho t"orm. Kisses, or cocoa-nut drops, be- ing lighter, are more difficult to make in this form than macaroons. Meringues. — One pound powdered sugar, whites of nine eggs ; whip eggs until dish can be inverted without their falling off", and (hen simply add the sugar, two teaspoons at a time, incorporating it Macaroon Pyramid. 140. CONFECTIONERY. thoroughly, but stirring as little as possible ; put together quickly gai* and when properlv made the dough will stand up stiffly if cleft |7 "^^ith a knife. Tlie dough, or a part of it, is sometimes colored I / with cochineal ; have ready either hickory or maple boards three- y fourths of an inch thick, to fit oven, soak them fifteen minutes in cold water and cover them with strips of heavy manilla paper about two and a half inches wide; on these drop the mixture from the end of a dessert-spoon (or use the meringue bag), giving the meringues tlie form of an es:g, dropping them about two inches apart on tlic^paper, and bake till a light brown. They should bake very slowly, as the longer they arc baked the thicker the crust will be. Leave the oven door opeii for a half hour at least. Take up each strip of paper by the two ends, turn it gently on the table, and Avith a small spoon take out the soft part of each meringue, strew over them some sifted sugar and return to oven bottom side up to brown. This recipe makes four dozen double meringues and they may be kept for weeks. When wanted for table, 'fill Avith whipped^ cream, ice-cream or jelly, place two of them together so as to inclose the filling and serve. To Meringues. vary their appearance, finely chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over, and they may be garnished with any bright colored preserve. Or, instead of mak- ing'^above shape, form the meringue dough into half balls about six inches in diameter ; dry them in the oven very slowly, so that the crust is a1)out one-third of an inch thick. When emptied of the soft interiors and when cold, tAvo shells are placed on a platter like an open clam shell, and the whip])ed cream (already set by being on ice) is banked betAA'cen them, as shoAvn in cut, reaching as high as suits the fancy. The cream may be deco- rated Avith berries; sliced nuts or candied fruits, or serA^ed Avithout ornamentation. Marsh-Mallow. — Take one pound each gum arable and fine sugar, half a pint of the decoction of marsh-malloAV root, two or three drops essence of neroli, or a small quantity of orange flower Avater and Avhites of six eggs ; puh'erize the gum arable very finely, after Avhich place it in a round-bottomed basin (Avhich must be very clean and Ijright). Add to it one and a half ]nnts Avater, place it upon a slo7n fire to dissoh'e. stirring it constantly Avith a Avooden spatula or paddle to prevent its adhering to the bottom and scorching. When it is entirely dissolved strain through a fine wire strainer into a clean basin. Noav add tlie decoction of marsh-mallow and sugar, place over a sIoav fire (one cov- ered Avith a thin layer of ashes), and cook to a thick consistence, stir- ^:s^<. CONFECTIONERY. 141 ring constantly ;add well-whipped whites and continue stirring without intermission in order to whiten it and also to prevent its sticking to the pan, which would discolor and entirely spoil the paste. Test it by placing the back of the hand upon the paste ; if it does not adhere to it, it is done. Add the neroli or the orange flower water, continue to stir a few minutes longer, then place on marble slab well dusted Avith starch or sugar powder. Flatten out and dust w'ith starch powder, and Avhen it has become cold cut it into strips or pieces. Keep in tin boxes well powdered with starch in order to pre^ vent it from sticking. Cover boxes tightly so as to keep the air from it as much as possible. This is the genuine and original marsh-mal- low paste, the best article that can be made. Some dispense Avith the mallow root on account of its unpleasant taste and in lieu thereof use apple juice, or a decoction of apples, which is supposed to be equally good and to possess the same healing qualities as the mallow. Others again use C)nly pure water in the preparation of this paste. It is then simply y?^?'<; fie gomme, although its appearance is precisely the same as that of mallow paste. It is also sometimes flavored with extract of vanilla or raspberry juice, and sold aspate de guimauve. White Nougat. — Ten pounds white sugar, half gallon strained honey, three pounds Ijlanched almonds, one tablespoon oil of lemon. After the sugar is melted and strained cook until nearly done ; have the honey boiling and pour on the sugar in the kettle ; set it on the fire again and when it boils up Avell pour out on a greased marble ; add the oil of lemon. When cool enough to handle turn it up and bleach on a candy-hook ; when white take off and spread it on the marble and s])rinkle the blanched almonds over it, fold up and spread out again, adding more almonds. Continue working it over the same way until all the almonds are worked in, then form into a long bar and cut up in square pieces. Pop-corn Balls. — Dissolve one ounce white gum arable in half pint water, strain, add one pound granulated sugar and boil until when a little is cooled in a saucer it becomes so thick as to be stirred with difficulty. Pour over a half bushel of freshly popped corn and when well stirred up the kernels will adhere in a mass ; form into balls by pressing with the floured hands. Ordinary mo- lasses may be used for this purpose boiled to same degree, no gum being necessary. Pop-corn Cake is prepared the same, putting the mass while warm into tins and pressing with rollers into thin sheets, afterwards dividing them into small square cakes. Everton Taffy. — Use brown sugar, and to each cup take quarter pound very best butter ; put into a clean, bright basin or pan and melt together over a brisk fire, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, adding a few drops lemon juice. Ten minutes' boiling will bring it to the desired degree, the cracky which may be known by dropping a little upon a cold plate or saucer ; if it hardens at once, 142 CONFECTIOXERY. it is done ; add lemon or vanilla flavoring just before the cooking is conijjlctod ; puiir it into buttered pans or on a marble table (slightly butten-d), and, -svhen cool enough, cut or mark it with a greased knife into square tablets; loosen it from the marble by running a knife under it before it becomes entirely cold. This is the real English recipe and and is the favorite confection of all true Britons. Ij'iclxorii-nii.t Taif)/. — Two pints maple sugar, half pint water, or just enough to dissolve sugar; boil until it l)ecomes brittle ^^^^ by dropping in cold water; just before pouring out add table- ^ggp^ spoon vinegar; having prepared the hiekory-nut meats in '•"''y p»° halves, butter patty pans well, line with the meats, and pour taffy over them. French Ti'iHeH. — These are made same as kisses, but the board upon wbieb they are baked should not be wet, that they may harden through. A cut of tube to be used in confectioner's bag when shaping them is here given. Sugar Threads. — Boil sugar until brittle, put a few drops on buttered form and draw out the thread. Tf sufficiently cooked the thread can be twisted into any shape. If it becomes too cold to work, heat again. Kiss Wafers. — Half pint blanched bitter almonds, heaping cup powdered sugar, Avhites of six eggs, one-third cuj) flour, two tablespoons corn-starch; blanch the almonds and pound them in a mortar, adding as soon as they are broken the white of an egg. Pound until ver}' fine. "When there is a smooth paste add the sugar, a little at a time, the whites of two eggs, one at a time, and the flour and corn-starch. When thoroughly mixed, add by degrees the three remaining Avliites. Butter the bottom of a flat baking pan and put the mixture C)n it in s])oonfuls ; spread it very thin, especially in the center, and bake in a quick oven. The moment the cakes are taken from the oven roll into the shape of cornucopias. If allowed to cool they cannot be rolled, and for this reason it is best to bake only half a dozen at a time. When all are shaped, fill with the kiss mix- ture made by beating whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and stir- ring into them, lightly, four talilespoons p(3wdered sugar. Place the wafers in a warm oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, to dry. With the quantities given two dozen can be made. Cochineal Coloring. — This is said to be quite harmless and is made by taking one ounce each ])0wdered cochineal, cream tartar, two drachms alum and a half pint Avatcr. Boil cochineal, water and cream tartar till reduced one-half, add tlie alum and put into small bottles. Use to color candies, cakes, blauc-mange and jellies. CANNING FRUITS. 143 OA]>QisriiSrcr fuxjits. In order to work intelligently, the principle applied in canning should be understood. The fruit is prepared by placing it in a vessel from which the external air ii^ entirely excluded, and this is eflfected by the use of heat to rarefy and expel the air that may be entangled in the mass of fruit or lodged in its pores. The preserya- tion of fruit does not dej^end upon sugar, though enough of this is generally used to make it palatable. The heat answers another pur- pose ; it destroys the ferment which fruits naturally contain, and so long as they are kept from contact with the external air they do not decompose. Fruits for canning should be selected carefully, and are much better if gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning sun upon them, if possible ; they will then haye their fullest flavor, and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed in the dairy, an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain fresh and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will soon be mildewed. All imperfect and over-ripe fruit must be rejected. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, etc., are in the best condition to can when not quite fully ripe, and should be put up as soon as possible after picking. An easy way to peel peaches is to place them in a Avire basket, to the handle of which a cord has been tied, let down into boiling water for a moment (some use strong white lye), then into cold water, and strip off the skin. This is called the dipping process. The fruit must be at a certain stage to be prepared in this way, for if too green it will not peel, and if too 144 CANNING FRUITS. ripe it will bo too much softened by the hot water. Peaches, pears, and all large fruits should be thrown into *'^-.-. ^^===^ l iiSi^^^^t an earthen vessel of cold water as soon as ''^^'"8 '^"'' ■ peeled,as exposure to the air darkens them. But the fruit should not stand long in the water, as it will soon be- come soft, and it is better to prepare only enough for one can at a time. Cooking reduces peaches about one-half and pears one- third. Small fruits, such as l^erries, should never stand overnight if it is possible to avoid it, and should never be put in tin. The highest-flavored and longest-keeping fruits are best put up without paring, after having carefully removed the down Avith a fine but stiff brush. Use only the Ijcst sugar in the proportion of half a jDound of sugar to a pound of good fruit, varying the rule, of course, with the sweetness of fruit. Fine granulated sugar is the best for can- ning. In canning for pies many omit sugar, as the natural flavor is better preserved without it, and some prefer this method for all pur- poses ; several recipes without sugar are given. It is econom- ical, and well worthy of experiment. Cans put uj) in this way should have a special mark to distinguish them from the rest. Before beginning the Avork of canning have ready all the neces- sary utensils, Avhich include the following: A thin-bladed, sharp, steel knife which should be often Aviped off during the paring pro- cess (though a silver knife is l>etterAvhen fruit- is Avanted extra nice), an earthen A'^essel to hold fruit after it is peeled, scales for weighing, or tAvo pint measures, one each for measuring sugar and fruit, a por- celain-lined or granite irouAvare kettle Avith lip (a six-quart kettle is a good size and tAvo Aviil Ije found convenient), a tin skimmer for removing the scum, a sih-er or thoroughly clean Avooden spoon- (never use any other in fruit), a sih'cr knife for one-quart cans or round Avooden stick for two-quart ones for expelling the air from cans after filling, a silver fork or a broom splint for testing cooked fruit (a steel fork discolors), a Avide-mouthed fun- nel or can-filler made to set into the can, though a small tin strainer or dipper of the right size Avith- out a bottom Avill do. a Avire spoon for lifting the larger fruits, a bright tin dipper (if old or rusty it Avill discolor the fruit), or a small pitcher or large coffee-cu]) Avith handle for dipping syrup and small fruits, and a small handled strainer for dipping sinall fruits as de- CANNING FRUITS. 145 scribed with recipe, a large pan with heavy folded towel in bottom on which to stand cans while lieating, and plenty of holders and towels for lifting from stove and wiping off cans. Canned fruit is much nicer if syrup is strained when pouring into can, and for this purpose make a strainer of cheese-cloth cut round and large enough to sink into can-filler, and run a fine Avire or string into the top to tie or hold it in place, or use handled strainer as given above. The cans must be thoroughly cleaned and tested to see if any leak or are cracked. If tin cans leak send them to the tinner ; if discolored inside they may be lined with writing paper and are thus used by many with success, but glass cans are always preferable. In buying stoneware for canning purposes be sure that it is well glazed, as fruits canned in jars or jugs imperfectly glazed sometimes become poisonous. Never use defective glass cans, but keep them for stor- ing things in the pantry, and in buying them, take care that they are free from flaws and blisters, else the glass will crumble off in small particles Avhen subjected to heat. Self-sealers are very con- venient, tliose with a porcelain-lined screw top being the best, the Mason ] 'referred. (The improved ]\[ason has a glass top held in place by a metal band screwing down over the can, and these are not reliable.) The "Almy" is highly recommended by many. The heat hardens the rubber rings used on self-sealers but new ones may now be procured at any furnishing store. Most of the earthenware and tin cans have a groove around the top for sealing Avith wax or putty ; sealing with the latter is most convenient as the jars can be opened readily with a strong fork or knife, and are much more easily cleaned than when Avax-soaled. Putty may be bought ready for use, and is soon made soft by molding in the hand. In using it should be worked out into a small roll, and pressed firmly into the groove Avith a knife, care being taken to keep it well pressed down as the can cools. Sealing-wax is bought ready prepared or can be made of tAA'o parts resin to one part beeswax melted together. In sealing pour Avax over coA^ers, filling the grooves, and break the air bubbles that rise with the wet finger, adding more if necessary to make air tight. Fruit intended for transportation should be put up in tin cans Avith the flat tops that are soldered on, as if shipped in glass the danger of breakage is great, and if the tin cans sealed AA'ith resin or putty are used bits are liable to crack off, letting the air in and so spoiling the fruit. 146 CANNING FRUITS. There are several ways of preparing glass cans for fruit, among them the following : Wring a toAvel from cold water, double and wrap closely about and under the can so as to exclude the air, and fill ; or, put a towel in a steamer, set in the cans, and place over a kettle oicold water; boil the water, and when ready to fill, remove the cans and wrap in a towel wrung from warm water ; or wash the cans in tepid water and at once pour in the boiling fruit, but not too fast; and in any method used always pour into the center; or, when ready to can fruit, place the glass jars in a large pan of warm water on the ])ack of the stove, in which a tliick folded towel has been previously jolaced to guard against too great heat for the bot- tom of cans, placing the covers on the stove in a smaller vessel of water, make ready the syrup in the clean porcelain-lined or granite ironware kettle before mentioned, put in the fruit — it is better to prepare only enough fruit or syrup for two or three cans at a time — and by the time it is done the water in the pan will be hot and the cans ready for use. Peaches and pears are properly cooked when they can be pierced with a silver ft)rk. Use the wire spoon for lift- ing the larger fruits from the syrups and a silver fork to help place in the cans, Avhich should be done closely and compactly but care- fully, filling around the sides first, turning the inside halves of the fruit outward. Put in as much fruit as possiljle and then fill up with the hot syrup, first tying on the little cheese-cloth strainer here- tofore described, which catches all loose particles of fruit and makes a clearer syrup. Berries should be cooked from five to fifteen min- utes, according to the ripeness of the fruit, ^^'llen done place the can-fdler in the can, fill to within a half inch of tlije top with hot fruit, alwa;/s pouring into the center, and using for this purpoi^c the bright tin dipper (if a ])itcher or ^. cu|) is used it must first be heated to prevent crack- ing), then place on a hot platter, remove to table, wijie ofi' upper ])arts and \^\\i on the rubber rings ; be sure these are perfect and close-fitting, throwing away all that are imperfect; let stand two or three minutes, or till other cans have been filled, when the fruit ^vill liave shrunk away a little ; fill almost to top with the hot syrup, or if you have none, boiling water froin the teakettle will do Now carefully insert a silver knife into the cans, putting it in at the sides so as not to bruise the fruit, let it touch the bottom, and push gently around to remove the air bubbles, slowly pressing and withdrawing CANNING FRUITS. 147 from all sides until the bubbles cease to come up ; seal at once, first filling to overflowing so that when the covers are screwed dovt^n the syrup squeezes out around the edge, taking care when canning ber- ries or tomatoes that none of the seeds overflow and are left on the rubber rings under the covers. Man}" insert a spoon in cans before filling and use the spoon to remove the air bubbles ; in canning ber- ries this answers very well, but the knife is better, especially for peaches, pears and all the larger fruits, as it is not so liable to bruise them and slips in easier around the sides. In the two-quart cans a round wooden stick may be used for this purpose, neither knife nor spoon being long enough. Wipe off" the cans with cloth wet in hot water and also inside of covers, in sealing, first screw on the covers as closely as possible with the hand, and as the cans cool turn down with the can-tightener, which always comes with the cans, this is a great help as it is impossible to screw covers on perfectly tight with the hands. Care must be taken to have the rubber ring show an even surface all round, for if it slips back at any point air will be admitted. When this is found to be the case take off the cover, find a ring to fit perfectly and re-seal (it may be necessary to add more syrup, which must squeeze out again as cover is tightened). Remove the cans from the hot platter and place where no current of air will strike them, wringing out a towel from hot water on which to stand them. When other cans are filled remove these to another part of table and set those filled last on the towel. After all are canned re-tighten the tops ; this retight- ening is very important and the tops must be turned down again, and again, the glass contracting as the fruit cools. Let the cans stand over night lottom side up ; in the morning turn down covers again with the can-tightener, wrap well in paper, tying it on to exclude all light, label — the gummed labels that can be purchased in book form ready to cut and use are very convenient — and place in fruit closet or cel- lar. Where one can have a small room in cellar, with one or more windows, place shelves around the sides on which to put stone jars of pickles, preserves, jam, etc. It is nice to make in one corner a fruit closet with a door, and shelves arranged in heights to fit one and two-quart cans and jelly glasses ; then each shelf or part of shelf can be labeled with the fruit orjelly placed upon it. Have in upper part of door a small piece of windoAV wire put in, or two or three augur holes made to admit the air. In lieu of this closet manv burv cans 148 CAXXIXG FRUITS. in boxes of sand. Light injures all fruits, but especially strawber- ries. The place should be dry a4id dark and cool, but where there is fresh air ; if too Avarm the fruit will spoil, as heat makes it fer- ment and dampness causes mold. Cans should be examined two or three days after filling, and if syrup leaks out from the rim they should be unsealed, the fruit thoroughly cooked and kept for jam or jelly, as it will have lost the delicacy of color and flavor so desirable in canned fruits. When canning a quantity of fruit, after removing the first lot of cans from the pan of hot water the water must be made tepid before setting in the remaining cans, then heated gradually to boiling again and kept hot until those cans are filled, repeating thus until all are done. If at any time there is not fruit enough to fill a can it may be left standing partly filled in the hot water until more fruit is cooked, then filled and removed like the rest to the hot platter. It is always best to cook a small quantity of fruit, either large or small, at a time (not more than one or two quarts of the large varieties, and two or three of berries) that it may be done evenly. If a large mass is cooked at once that in the bottom will be done sooner than that on top, and if stirred to secure uniformity its shape will be injured. It should also be cooked sloii^h/ to preserve the form, and the larger fruits after being put in the syrup must be watched very closely and each piece taken out and placed in can as soon as it be- comes tender, as some pieces will cook in much less time than oth- ers. In canning berries use as little water as possible, and some can successfully without Avater. To better preserve the form of fruit many place it in the cans raw, cover with a hot syruj) and cook by placing in a boiler of Avater. The same object is attained by first steaming the fruit, and when done carefully removing to the boiling syrup a moment or two, then i)lace in cans when steamed tender, or place at once in cans and fill up with hot syrup, testing by pierc- ing with a silver fork. The cold process has also been successfully tried by good housekeepers, and considering the amount of labor saved is certainly worth an experiment by all. Recipes are given for each method. To clarify sugar for canning break a pound of loaf sugar in small pieces, put on the stove in porcelain-lined or granite ironware vessel with half pint water and well-whisked white of one egg. Have a cup of cold water ready and throw in a little when the sugar begins to rise, skim and let rise thus three times, CANNING FRUITS. 149 skimming until clear, then strain through a flannel bag and when cool bottle for use. Scientists claim that cane sugar when added to boiling fruit is converted to grape sugar whicli has far less sweeten- ing power than cane sugar, and advise housekeepers to sweeten fruits when brought to table for consumption instead of before can- ning. When dissolving sugar for syruj) it should be stirred con- stantly to prevent scorching. A good proportion for syrup for can- ning is one pint sugar to one quart water, which is enough for a two- quart can of fruit. The flavor of canned peaches is improved by adding two or three whole peaches or dropping in the center of each can a few of the stones. Many leave the stone attached to one half, and others cook a number of stones with the fruit, then blanch as almonds and put meats in the cans. Peaches are sometimes canned whole, and the clingstone varieties are of course always put up in this way. Before peeling with a knife it is well to rub the fuzz oft' peaches with a coarse towel. Many parboil quinces before peeling. In preparing grapes it is better not to press the skins too closely, to avoid the formation of the disagreeable small particles, or what are called " clinkers,'^ in the canned fruit. As the acid is not fully developed until the fruit is thoroughly ripened this may be avoided also by canning before fully ripe. Currants are nice mixed Avith an equal weight of raspberries, and pears are improved by adding quinces or lemon peel. Equal quantities of quince and apple canned together will taste as if quince entirely. For ordinary family use quart cans are better for peaches and the larger fruits, two-quart cans for toma- toes and other vegetables, and pint cans for berries. Strawberriea keep their color best in stone jars ; if glass cans are used for them they should be buried in sand. If syrup is left after canning ber- ries it may while thin be flavored with vinegar, boiled a moment and then bottled and corked for a drink mixed with ice-water; or add the proportion of sugar given in recipes for jellies, allowing for the 'sugar used in canning, and make into jelly. All skimmings from fruits can b^ added to the vinegar barrel. If tin cans which are closed with resin or soldering are used, great care should be taken that none drops into the can, as a single drop of resin will often make the whole can bitter. By covering first Avith a piece of cloth or white paper cut to fit the top, this will be avoided, and wetting this with brandy or alcohol tends to help 150 CANNING FRUITS. preserve the fruit. On opening tin cans remember to pour all the fruit into an earthen or glass dish. If any part is not used at the time, reoook and return to dish, and it will keep for a day or two, many of the less perishable fruits longer. Or if ^jut up in self-seal- ing glass cans the fruit or vegetables left over will keep a day or two by simply returning to the cans, screwing on the cover and setting in refrigerator. Wines, cider, shrubs, etc., must be bottled, well corked, sealed, and the bottles placed on their ^des in a box of sand or sawdust. To can maple syrup, pour hot into cans or jugs and seal well. Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds and "'fiome of the smaller fruits, such as plun:is, cherries, currants, etc., harden when put at first into a syrup of their own weight of sugar. These should first be boiled tender in Avater, or in a very weak syrup, and the rest of the sugar added afterAvard. Fruits which become soft too readily and fall to pieces may be hardened a little by pouring the hot syrup over the fruit, or strewing part of the sugar over it and letting it stand aAvhile to draw out the juice ; or it may be skimmed out of the syrup after cooking a fcAv minutes, placed in the sun two or three hours, and the boiling syrup poured over it afterward. As many recipes for canning give proportions in pounds, the table of weights and measures in back part of book will be found a conven- ient reference when scales are not at hand. A l)ushel of jjeaches makes about twelve or thirteen quarts, and pears almost twice as many as peaches ; a bushel of either blackberries, blueberries or rasj)berries makes about nineteen quarts, and strawberries about sixteen or seventeen. The above estimates are given from tests, but no really definite rule can be given, as some use more or less syrup in canning, and a great deal depends upon the ripeness of fruits. In opening a can Avithout the can-tightener, as that ansAA'ers for opening self-sealers if hard to open, insert the point of a thin-bladed pen- knife or other instrument beneath the rubber and push it in toAvards the neck, Avhich lets in the air, and the top can then be readily un- screwed. When not in use the rubber rings may be left in, not on, cans, but the tops fijiould not he screwed on, as the cans Avill become musty if kei)t closed. Kee]^ the coA'ers (best place also for rubbers) in a box or basket near the cans. Those who use tin cans advise tln-oAving thrm aAvay after the second year, as the fruit acids dam- age the tin. All cans, jars or bottles, should be carefully Avashed as soon as emptied, taking care that the stoppers and covers CANNING FRUITS. 151 have their share of attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia into the jars or bottles, fill up with water, and let stand an hour, putting the stoppers or covers into a howl to soak in the same way. Then pour out ands cald nicely, but not with boiling water, as that cracks the ■polished surface inside; wipe dry, set in I the sun or wind to air, and then set away carefully. It is often difficult to remove the tops of glass jars when screwed on, on aceouiu oi the slippery nature of the glass. The holder represented in the cut will be understood at a glance. It clasps and holds the jar without danger of breaking it. The folloAving table gives the time required for cooking and the quantity of sugar to the quart for the various kinds of fruit. By observing these rules and the general directions given above any fruit may be successfully canned. However, for convenience, a number of valuable recipes are appended. Time for Quant. boiling sugar fruit. to qt. Quinces, sliced 30min. 10 oz. Uaspberries 6 " 4 " llipe Currants 6 " 8 " Siberian crab-apple.s 25 " 8 '' Small sour pears, whole.. . "0 " 8 " Sour apples, quartered 10 •' 6 " Strawberries 8 " 8 " Tom: toes SO " none. Whortleber-ies 5 " 5 " Wild Grapes 10 " 8" A quart of stemmed currants or berries by measure Aveighs one and a quarter pounds. Bar lett pears, halved. . Time for b iling f uit. ... 20 mia ... 6 " Quant sugar toqt. 6 dz C " Blueberrriea ... 5 " 5 " 6 " Goose crries ... 8 " 8 " Peaches Peaches, whole Pie-plant, sliced Pine-apples, sliced P.ums ." . . ... 8 " ... 15 " ...10 " ... 15 " ..10 " 4 " 4 " 8 " G " 10 " Ccmned Berrief^. — Select those the skins of Avhich have not been broken, or the juice will darken the syrup; fill cans compactly, set in kettle of cold water with a cloth beneath them, over an even heat ; when sufficiently heated pour over the berries a syrup of white sugar dissolved in boiling Avater, cover the cans closely to retain heat on the top berries. To insure full cans when cold, have extra cans of berries heated in like manner to supply the shrinkage. If the fruit swims pour off surplus syrup, fill Avith hot fruit, and seal up as soon as fruit on top is thoroughly scalded. In using this or any of the following recipes refer to the preface abov^e for general directions. Canned Berries. — Pick out stems or hulls if any — if gathered carefully the berries Avill not need washing, put in porcelain kettle on stove, adding a scant cup water to prevent burning at first. 152 CANNED FRUITS. When they come to a boil, skim well, take off all surplus juice, keep- ing it for jelly, add sugar to taste (for pies it may l)o omitted), or a half pound sugar to each pound fruit, let hoil five minutes, fill in glass, stone, or tin cans, using a small strainer for dii)ping berric;s so that the quantity of juice put up may be reg- Handie Strainer. uLntod, filHug lu thc juicc witli dii)])er. The strainer if of size to fit in cans may be set into them and syrup poured through instead of using the cheesecloth strainer described. Seal with putty unless self-sealers are used. This rule applies to all berries and small fruits. Ccuuied BlacMerricH. (Without water.) — Place fruit in preserv- ing kettle, sweeten as for eating, or add sugar according to above table, let stand on back of stove until dissolved, then draw gradu- ally to the front, keep at boiling ])oint long enougli to thoroughly cook the fruit, skimming Avell, and can as previously directed. All berries may be put up in this way, blueberries requiring less sugar than other varieties, and some can Peaches and Pears thus. Canned Cherries. — Boil moderately five minutes the propor- tion of six ounces sugar to each quart stoned cherries ; or make a syrup of one pint water and three pounds sugar, add cherries and cook as above. Can as in general directions. Canned Crah-Apples. — To each pound fruit allow half pound sugar, and a pint Avater to three pounds sugar. When the syrup is boihng hot drop in the apples. They will cook very quickly. Or better,- steam till tender, place in syrup a moment, then fill cans with fruit and fill up with syrup. Canned CiLrrants. — Look them over carefully, stem and weigh, allowing a jwund sugar to every one of fruit ; put in kettle, cover, and leave to heat slowly and stew gently for twenty or thirty min- utes, then add the sugar, and shake the kettle occasionally to make it mix with the fruit ; do not allow it to boil, but keep as hot as pos- sible until the sugar is dissolved, then pour it in cans and secure the covers at once. White currants are beautiful preserved in this way. Canned Gonsehcrries. — Cut off tops and stems and cook the berries in Avater until white, but not enough to break them ; put into cans with as little water as possible, fill up the can with boiling water and seal ; Avhen opened pour off water and cook like fresh berries. Or put berries into wide-mouthed bottles, cork or put on covers, and set in vessel of cold water on the stove until it boils. Do not boil long enough to break the berries. Take usual pjecautions in sealing. Will keep a year in a dry j^lace. Canned Gooseberries. — Prepare and place in a large ])an, pour boiling water over them, let stand until cold ; fill jars as full as you CAFNED FRUITS. 133 can, pour boiling water over them, be sure it covers the berries, then seal. You Avill find berries as solid as when first gathered. Canned Grapes. — Pick grapes off stems, wash in cold Avater and squeeze the pulps into an earthen dish or preserving kettle, throwing skins into another. Boil skins with a very little water until tender, and pulps until seeds separate, then strain through a colander (to remove seeds) into dish with the skins. Add sugar to taste, or half as much sugar as fruit, stew and can as other fruits. To can Green Grax>es halve them, extract the seeds with a small knife, sweeten, cook as above, and can. Canned Peaches. (With vinegar.) — Pour boiling water over one peck of large clingstone peaches to remove the fuzz ; make a syrup of three pounds sugar and one pint vinegar, using a little water if required to cover the peaches ; cook until pretty soft, and can as usual. Canned Peaches. — Plave one porcelain kettle with boiling water and another with a syrup made sweet enough with white sugar for the peaches, well skimmed, or clarified according to directions in preface; pare, halve, and drop the peaches into the boiling water, let remain until a silver fork will pierce them, lift them out with a wire spoon, fill can, pour in all the boiling syrup the can will hold, and seal immediately. Continue in this way, preparing and scaling only one can at a time, until done. Or, rich jiroporlions for the same recipe are seven pounds sugar and seven gills boiling water for the syrup, sweetening the water in which peaches are cooked, using two pounds sugar to three quarts water. Boil down the water in the first kettle with the syrup if any is left ; if not, add more sugar and quite a nice marmalade will result. This manner of canning peaches has been thoroughly tested, and is pronounced by the experienced the best of all methods. Canned Peaches. — When wanted extra nice for prize competi- tion, or for use on " state occasions," select with great care fruit of uniform size and shape and all perfect. Peel with a thin sharp sil- ver fruit knife, which does not discolor, dropping as soon as jjared into an earthen vessel of water to prevent the air from darkening them. As soon as fruit enough for one can is pared put up by lay- ing piece by piece in the can, turning the inside of halves from which stones were removed, outward, which gives a handsome ap- pearance, and fill up with syrup as clear as crystal, placing the cheese-cloth strainer over the filler. Screw on covers without the rubbers, stand cans in wash-boiler on slab or a board perforated with holes, or a folded towel with a towel between them (some use straw or hay), fill up with cold water to within two or three inches of top of cans, gradually bring to a boil and boil fifteen minutes. Draw to back of stove to let steam pass ofi", roll the hand in a tov/el, lift cans 154 CANNED FRUITS. out and place on hot platter. Take off covers and lot out air bubbles with a knife, as directed in preface. The fruit will settle some and the contents of one or two cans will be needed to fill up the others ; prepare for this purpose nearly a fourth more cans. Fill up, put on rubbers, seal and put away according to pre^'ious directions. The same process may be used for canning all kinds of fruit. Canned Peaches. — Prepare peaches and weigh out half a pound best loaf sugar to each pound fruit. Sprinkle a little sugar in a deep earthen bowl, put in a layer of peaches, then one of sugar, and so alternate until closely packed, covering top with sugar; cover lightly and let stand ten or twelve hours. Drain juice off into pre- serving kettle, let come to a boil, put in peaches, and as fast as pieces swell sufliciently take out with '.ilver fork and jjlace in air- tight glass jar. When filled pour lao ooiling syrup over, filling to top and seal at once. Peaches and other fruits jDrepared in this way have been kept three or four years. Canned Peaches. (Cold) — Pare and halve peaches and pack closely as possible in cans Avithout sugar, and pour in enough cold water to fill to brim. Let stand long enough for water to soak into all crevices — six hours or so — then let out air bubbles with a silver knife, fill up again Avith cold Avater and seal. Canned thus, peaches retain all their freshness and flaA'or. A cold syrup may be used instead of water if preferred, but peaches taste most natural Avithout sweetening. Can pears same Avay. Canned Peaches. (Steamed.) — After peeling, seed and place in a steamer oA'cr a kettle of boiling water, first laying a cloth in bot- tom of steamer ; fill about half full of fruit, coA'er tightly, make a syrup in a porcelain kettle for fruit alone, let the fruit steam untilit can be easily pierced Avith a silver fork, drop gently for a moment into the hot syrup, place in the cans, fill, coA-er, and seal. The aboA'e recipe is for canning a fcAV at a time. This recipe, applies equally AA-ell to pears. Canned Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed ; make a syrup of a pint granulated sugar to a quart AA'atcr (enough for two quart-cans) place on stoA'e in porcelain kettle and AAiien syrup boils, skim, and drop in enough fruit (tAvo quarts halved peaches) for a one-quart can ; Avatch closely, tost and can as in general directions. Add more peaches to the hot syrup for next can, and repeat the oj^eration. If there are more poaches than Avill fill the can, place them in another can and Jicep hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. Apples may be canned in the same manner. Canned Pears. — Prepare and can precisely like peaches in pre- ceding recipes except that they require longer cooking. When clone they are easily pierced Avith a silver fork. Some add a half pint peeled and quartered quinces to CA'cry tAA'o quarts hah'ed pears ; cook CANNED FRUITS. 155 quinces fifteen minutes before adding pears. More quinces may be added, but the above is an excellent proportion for Pears With Quinces. Canned Pie Plant. — Cut pic plant in pieces two inches long, put over a slow fire with its weight in sugar ; when sugar is dis- solved let boil slowly until clear, but do not cook long enough to become dark colored. Put up in air-tight cans. Canned Pie Plant. (Cold) — Skin and cut as for pie, fill glass cans full as possible, shaking down while packing, then fill up with pure fresh cold water, let stand a little while and expel the air, add more water, then screw on covers. No cooking or heating. Will keej) perfecthj, and fruit will be as nice and fresh when opened as if just brought from garden. Canned Pine-apple. — Peel and slice, or ])ick to pieces with silver fork, make syrup in proportion of three-fourths pound best white granulated sugar and one cup water to each pound fruit, boil five minutes, skim or strain, add the fruit and let it boil (cook- ing long discolors it) ; have can hot, fill and seal up as soon as pos- sible. Or, peel and grate on coarse grater, rejecting cores ; using above proportions, put in an earthen vessel sprinkled with sugar, first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, thus alternating until all is used. Cover, let stand oveTnight, and in the morning bring to a boil, boil one minute and can immediately. Canned Pine-apple. — Pare and be careful to cut out the eyes, chop fine, weigh, and add to it same weight of sugar ; mix thor- oughly, let stand twenty-four hours and (without cooking) fill cans full and seal tight. Look at them in about tAvo weeks, and if there are signs of working, pour into a kettle, heat through and put back into cans. Canned Plums. — "Wash and put whole into a syrup made in the proportion of a pint water and a pound sugar to every two pounds fruit ; boil eight minutes, can, and seal immediately. If pricked Avith a fork before placing in syrup they AA'ill be less liable to burst. Cherries, damsons, and green gages are canned in same way. The large Avhite plums must be skinned by using the dipping process as lor peaches. Canned Plums. — Wi])e good sound fruit Avith a cloth and place carefully in cans ; pour boiling hot water OA'er them and seal while hot. Grapes put up in same AA-ay are nice for pies. Canned Quinces. — Pare and quarter the fruit, and take out all the coves and the hard place around them. Boil the fruit in clear water until tender, then spread on towels to dry. For one pound fruit alloAV half pound sugar and one pint water for three pounds sugar. When syrup is boiling hot put in fruit, and let it cook very 156 CANNED FRUITS. slowly ; or, set hack on the stove so that it hardly cooks at all, and keep on for an hour or more, if yon can without its cooking to pif>f.ps — as the lon^rer it cooks, the brighter red color it will be. Put it in jars, and strain the syrup over it. as with other fruits. Can ap- ])les or pears at same time and add to them when first ])ut on a half pint (juinces (and juice) cooked in syrup as above half an hour. Canned Straioberries. — Fill glass cans with fresh, whole straw- beri'ics, alternating layers of berries and sugar, in the proportion of half pound sugar to pound berries; lay covers on lightly, stand in wasli-boiler and ])Vocecd as in third recipe for peaches. Great care nnist be taken to keep the berries whole and round ; as the cans cool invert them occasionally to prevent the fruit from forming in a mass at one end. Damnons may be put up in same Avay, cooking until soft l)ut not broken. Strawberries are very nice put up as peaches in fourth recipe. Canned Straicherrles.—^Yox every quart fresh strawberries take one coffee-cup white sugar, add a tablespoon or two of water if there is no juice in the bottom, to prevent burning before the heat brings out tlie juice ; as soon as fruit boils add the sugar, and stir gently for a few minutes until it boils up again, and can immediately. Or make a syrup of one pound sugar and as little water as possible, add three pounds berries and cook slowhj for twenty minutes. The color and flavor of the strawberries depend upon gentle cooking. Cherries and Gooseberries are nice canned same wa3^ It is better not to cook any more fruit than can be put into one glass fruit-jar. Usually a few spoonfuls syrup will be left with which to begin the next can. Another method is to stem the largest, finest ber- ries ol)tainable, put into cans, giving them a shake occasionally Avhile filling to settle them, and fill in with a rich syrup, using only just enough Avater to dissolve sugar, first boiling it ten minutes, then seal. Strawberries are considered diilicult to keep, but there need be no trouble if the fruit is fresh, closed air-tight in glass, and kept ns directed in general directions for canning fruits. Canned Stravherries. — Put four pounds white sugar in a ket- tle, add a cup cold water, let boil till perfectly clear, then add four quarts nice berries. Boil ten minutes, keeping them covered with syrup, but avoid stirring in order to preserve their good appearance. Take out berries with a small strainer or skimmer, place in cans, fill- ing r.bout three-quarters full, and let the syrup boil ten minutes longer, and fill each can with it. Let stand till cool, then cover with a tablespoon lirandy (take out a little juice if necessary), screw on the lid and put in a dry, dark place. This method is claimed to be the (tnly means of preserving tlie peculiar flavor of the strawberries. If after two or three weeks the least fermentation appears, put the cans in a boiler (on a small board to prevent contact with bottom), fill with cold water nearly to top of cans, loosen the lids, but do not CANNED VEGETABLES. 157 take them ofi', let water boil for a little while, then take out cans, tighten the covers and the berries will keep over a year. Fully ripe currants and acid cherries canned in same manner, one pound of sugar to one of dressed fruit, are delicious. They never need a sec- ond boiling if carefully prepared. Canned Watermelon. — Cut rind of ripe melons (first cutting oflf all green joarts) into small pieces two or three inches long, and boil in water until tender enough to pierce w^ith fork ; have a syrup made of Avhite sugar, allowing half pound sugar to pound fruit; skim out melon and place in syrup together with a few pieces race ginger, let cook a few minutes, put in cans and seal as in general directions. Oaniiin"- Vepretables. All vegetables intended for canning should he perfectly hcA). — especially is this true of corn — and of the best quality. To prepare corn, cut with a sharp knife through the center of every row of grains, and cut off the outer edge ; then with the back of the blade push out the yellow eye, with the rich, creamy center of the grain, leaving the hull on the cob. Or, simply cut off with a knife, being careful not to cut too close to the cob, and scrape down the cob with the back of the knife to get all the rich milk. Remove the skins from tomatoes in the usual way, by covering with boiling hot water, but do not let them stand in the water but a moment or two or thev will be softened more or loss, and if to be canned whole their shape will be injured. A bushel of tomatoes makes about twenty quarts. Peas and beans should be shelled just hefore can- ning. String-beans are prepared as for ordinary cooking. The very complete directions given in "Canning Fruit" preface for preparing, filling, sealing and putting away cans should be consulted and fol- lowed in canning vegetables. Especial care should be taken to ex- clude the light from tomatoes, as it causes the formation of citric acid, which no amount of sugar will sweeten. For this reason many prefer earthen or tin cans for tomatoes, but they can be put up suc- cessfully in glass, when they should be buried in sand or oats ; or simply wrapped in paper and set away in a box or cupboard in a 158 CANNED VEGETABLES. dry, cool cellar they keep perfectly. When put up in tin all vegeta- bles must be turned out as soon as the can is opened. If the whole is not used the remainder may be ke])t a day or two by salting slightly and placing in refrigerator. If put up in glass set away in can. Canned Beans. — Take Lima, V)utter or caseknife beans, cook as for the table, boiling one hour ; season with pepper and salt and fill jars quite full, seal carefully as directed, and they will keep the year round, Canv.ea Corn . — Dissolve an ounce tartaric acid in half cup water and take one tablespoon to two quarts sweet corn ; cook, and while boiling fill tlie cans. "When used turn into a colander, rinse with cold water, add a little soda and sugar while cooking, and season with butter, pepp( r and salt. Canned Corn. — Cut sweet corn from col), put a handful or two into the can, then a pinch of salt, also a ])infh of sugar ; take a potato masher or anything else convenient that will go in the can, and press corn down as close as possible, then repeat putting in corn, salt and sugar as before until the can is full ; seal up and set away witli other fruit. Be sure and not put in any more salt tlian is required for seasoning when cooked. To cook it, sim])ly turn from the bottle and cook as you would fresh corn. Or cut the corn from cob, pack in glass cans, pound the corn as hard as possible without breaking cans ; screw on top but not tight. Put on boiler with cold water and proceed as in third recipe for peaches. After putting on rubbers, screw tight, put back into the water, set the boiler off the stove ; let the cans stand till morning, take out, tighten the covers, and keep in a dark place. Can Peas and Beans same way. Canned Corn. — Pick sweet corn whenmilk-ripe.or if bought,nave as fresh as possible; cut from the cob and scrape to get the juice, fill tin cans and seal air-tight, surround with straw to prevent strik- ing against each other, and put into a boiler over the fire with enough cold water to cover. Hnat the water gradually and when tliey have boiled an hour and a half, jnmcture the tops of the cans to allow the escape of gasses. then seal them immediately while they are still hot. Continue to boil them for two hours and a half. In ])acking the cut corn in the can the liberated milk and juices sur- round the kernels, forming a liquid in which they are cooked. Peas and Beans are canned same way. Canned Corn and Tomatoes. — Scald,peel and slice tomatoes, (not too ripe) in the proportion of two-thirds tomatoes to one-third corn ; put on in a porcelain kettle, let boil half an hour, and can immedi- CANNED VEGETABLES. 159 ately in tin or glass (if glass keep in the dark). Some take equal parts of corn and tomatoes, preparing them as above. Others, after cutting the corn from the cob, cook half an hour in custard kettle ; prepare the tomatoes as above, cooking in a separate kettle twenty minutes, adding the corn in the proportion of one-third corn to two- thirds tomatoes, mixing well until they boil up once ; then can as in general directions. Canned PwmpMn. — Peel, scrape the pulp and seeds, cut in small pieces, put in a close-fitting steamer and steam two hours ; then put in a kettle ; to every quart add two ounces sugar, boil five minutes and can. Or, after peeling and removing seeds cut into pieces three or four inches square, stand in oven on the rind and bake until done, when it will peel out of the shell easily. Then mash and can while hot, sealing as fruit. Cannot be told from fresh. Canned String- Beans. — String fresh string-beans, break in sev- eral pieces, cook in boiling water ten minutes, and can like tomatoes. Canned Succotash. — Cook Lima beans and corn as for eating in the proportion liked, either half and half, or with a less quantity of beans, and can. Canned Tomatoes. — The tomatoes must be entirely fresh and not over-ripe ; pour over them boiling water, let stand a few minutes, drain off, remove the skins, and slice in small pieces into a stone jar, cutting out all the hard or defective portions ; some add a little salt ; cook for half an hour, or as for eating, in their own juice, skimming off the scum which rises, and stirring with a wooden spoon or paddle ; can and seal as in general directions ; put up in glass, wrap in paper and keep in dark place. Tin or stone cans may be used. Canned Tomatoes. — Take ripe, round, firm tomatoes, freshly gathered and not too large to go into the mouth of cans. Prepare only enough at one time to fill one or two cans and drop them at once into the preserving kettle in which should be ready some toma- toes cut fine. Boil until heated through, then put into cans, filling up with the cut tomatoes in which they were cooked and seal. Canned Tomatoes. — Skin tomatoes as usual, 23lace on sieve to drain and pack as solidly as possible in cans ; then set cans in boiler of cold water, heat up and boil half an hour, and fill and seal as in third recipe for peaches. 160 CATSUPS AXD SAUCES. OATSXTPS AISTD SAUCES. Always select perfect fruit; cook in porcelain or granite iron-ware, never in brass. In making catsup, instead of boil- ing, some sprinkle tlic tomatoes with salt and let them stand overnight, then strain and add spices, etc., and a little sugar. Bottle in glass or stone, and never use tin cans ; keep in a cool, dry, dark place. If on opening there is a leathery mold on top. care* ''•■"''"'' fully remove every particle of it and the catsuj) will not be injured. To prevent this molding some do not fill the bottles quite to the top with catsup, l)at fill U}) with hot vinegar. If tin re are white specks of mold all through the catsuj? it is spoiled. If on opening and using a part there is danger that the rest may sour, scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Sauces should always be made with great care in a pan set in hot water, having the sauce- pan l)right and clean if a delicate flavor is desired, especially if the sauce is drawn butter ; or the custard-kettle will be found conven- ient, as the stock or other foundation may first be heated quickly by putting the inner kettle on the stove, and when other ingredients are added and there is danger of burning place again in the outer ket- tle made ready with boiling water. Butter and those sauces con- taining eggs should never boil. Wooden spoons or paddles must be used for stirring. A set of pad- ^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^^^^^ dies of diflferent sizes will be found ^^^^^"^^^^^^^^^^^ convenient for stirring sauces, gravies, siat.iu. mushes, and many other dishes, and will not scratch or mar the kettle or pan. When necessary to scrape down the, sides of kettle CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 161 in which catsup or other mixtures of like character are being cooked, an artist's spatula -will be found the best utensil and should be pro- vided in every kitchen rather than destroy the temper of sharpened knives by heat. The pulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and wonderfully retains the fl a V o r , notwithstanding- all the ingredients added. Use a fine Avire sieve or strainer in their prepara- tion — the extension strainer is the most convenient — and a good rule is to allow for every quart of the juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of cinnamon, one teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper corns ; boil all down one-third, then skim out spices, add sugar, boil till thick, reduce to a proper consistency with vinegar, and bottle for use. This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and all kinds of berries. The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the va- rious viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that thev may harmonize and blend with them perfectly, and in serving do not pour over but around the me;it. Sauces should possess a decided character, and whetlier sharp or sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, al- though, of course, not so much flavored as to make them too piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, generally speaking, should scared}- be so thick as white sauces, and it is well to bear in mind that when intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, th^v should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned flour may be properly employed. The caramel coloring answers very well for sauces and gravios, but when they can be made to look brown by using browned flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far preferable. As, however, in cooking so much depends upon appear- ance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the caramel. When no browning is at hand to heighten the color of sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire ; 162 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavor. Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as from their being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. The lain marie will be found almost indispensable for this purpose. This is a large open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling) water at the back of the stove or range or in some warm place. In this several stew- ]ians, or large tin cups with covers and hand- les, are fitted which are intended to hold all the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot until the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. "When a dinner is delayed, there is no better Avay of keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their B.in Mad. fiavor. If a ha'ni marie is not among the cooking utensils a large dripping-pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or lay two or three bricks on back of stove or range on which to set sauces, vegetables, etc., until ready to serve. Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part should be well stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil, as they would instantly curdle. White pepper is a much nicer seasoning than l)lack for sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color and has not so pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soups, sauces and gravies is prepared as follows : Bring butter just to the boiling point in a small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until well cooked. This, when not cooked brown, is "White Roux," and when browned, "Brown Roux." Thin ^his with a part of the soup, sauce or gravy, and ;idd it to tlie whole, stirring thoroughly. The flour may ho browned bofor.e using if intended for brown gravies or sauces. A ri*clier thickening is made in the proportion of the yolks of tliree eggs to eight tablesi)oons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, add the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the sauce it must be stirred during the whole time or the eggs will cur- dle, and the mixture should only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is lumpy after adding thickening rub again through a sieve. Melted butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in place of oil in all CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 163 recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be thick- ened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc. ; the latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. Milk or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter is better, giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. "When any green coloring is used if lemon juice is to be added it should not be put in until just before sending to table. Any flavored vinegar pre- ferred may be used instead of the plain. An English salt sold by most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and all cooking, giving a more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste found so objectionable in most salt. Where a sieve is to be used in making sauces, use the puree sieve. Herbs for seasoning are usually dried dur- ing the summer. The best kinds are sage, thyme, p^rea sie^ sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, mace, celer}^ seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a sunny spot in the yard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather and dry as follows : Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June and July, just before flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram and savory in July and August; basil and sage in August and September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and dried by astificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. Mint, when used in recipes, usually means "spearmint" or ''green mint," though pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The young leaves of from one to six inches in length are the parts used. It groAvs on any good garden soil, but comes forward earlier in a warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by cuttings or dividing the roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific, and ought to find a place in every garden. Those who have conservatories should keep a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would ap- pear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the stalks just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some dry, shady place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in paper bags and keep in a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a very nice addition to the flavoring of sauces, and may be used in- stead of the fresh celery when the latter is out of season. Pickled 164 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given under Pickles, will be found a good substitute for capers and is often used. Gherkins, (small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter is used in the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or \dnegar is to be added, always make it with water, never with milk, as the combination of the latter with the acid would be most unwhole- some. The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with vinegar, or still more, with hoiling water, materially checks the development of those peculiar principles on which its pungency or strength almost entirely depends, and cold water may cause it to ferment. It should therefore be mixed with water that has been boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup with a small pinch of salt and mix with it very gradually sufficient water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, rubbing the lumps down with the back of a spoon until smooth, and do not add flavoring until this paste is made. Mustard is much better freshly made, and only a small quantity should be mixed at once. Barheri']/ Catsup. — Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, four quarts cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four small onions, all stewed with a quart of water and str^iined. Mix these ingredients with the barberries and add half cup vinegar, three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar, one dessert-spoon each ground clove and ground allspice, two tablespoons each black pep- per and celery si^xl, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil one minute ; if too thick add vinegar or water. With the quantities given about three quarts of catsup can be made. Cherri/ Catsup. — One pint pure cherry juice, half pound sugar, teaspoon each ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup and bottle. Cucuniher Catf!vp. — Pec^l, seed and grate on coarse grater, one dozen large green cucumbers; |)ut the pulp in a large towel and wring out aU moisture that can be extracted ; pc(d and grate or chop fine four lj6*ge onions and mix with the grated cucumber, adding one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon salt, half pint salad oil or American Cooking Oil, ana sufficient xin- egar to make as thin as ordinary' catsup. "\\'hen all are thoroughly CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 165 blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in top of each jar and seal air-tight ; or peel and chop three dozen cucum- bers and eighteen onions very fine ; sprinkle over them three-fourths pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight ; add a cup mustard seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and cover with good cider vinegar. Currant Catsxi/p. — Four pounds fully-ripe currants, one and a half pounds sugar, tablespoon ground cinnamon, teaspoon each salt, ground cloves and pep]jer, pint vinegar ; stew currants and sugar until quite thick, add other ingredients and bottle for use ; or, take juice of five pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, two tablespoons ground cinnamon, one each of cloves, allspice and black pepper, one grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Cook one-half hour. Elderberry Catsup. — Pick from the stalk as many ripe elder- berries as are wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough strong vinegar to cover them, bake in a hot oven three hours and strain while hot. Boil the liquor thus obtained with cloves, mace, peppercorns and four or five shallots, enough to give a considerable flavor ; taste, and when flavored as liked, put in one-half pound of the best anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir and boil only until dissolved ; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing by dip- ping corks in hot sealing-wax. Grape Catsup. — Boil, and strain five pounds grapes through a colander, add to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds sugar, one tablespoon each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pep- per, and a half tablespoon salt. Boil again until a little thick, bottle and seal. Gooseherry Catsup. — Nine pounds gooseberries, five pounds sugar, one quart vinegar, three tablespoons cinnamon, one and a half each of allspice and cloves ; the gooseberries should be nearly or quite ripe. Take off blossoms, wash and put them into a porcelain kettle, mash thoroughly, scald and put through the colander, add sugar and spices, boil fifteen minutes and add the vinegar cold ; bot- tle immediately before it cools. Ripe Grapes prepared by same rule make an excellent catsup. Lemon Catsiip. — One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a pound of ground mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne and allspice, one gallon of cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, fifteen large lemons ; slice the lemons, add the other ingredients, let simmer from twenty to thirty minutes, place in a covered jar, stir every day for seven or eight weeks, strain, bottle, cork and seal. Liver Catsup. — Rub a very fresh beef liver thoroughly with rolled salt and place it in a vessel that will not crush it ; turn and 166 BAUCE3 AND CATSUPS. rub thoroughly for ten days, then mince into small dice and boil in a gallon of water closely covered until reduced to three quarts ; strain through a sieve and let settle till next day ; add one ounce each gin- ger and allspice and two ounces whole black pepjier, and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle and keep well corked. Oyster Catsup. — Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient to fill pint measure ; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with one pint good cider, strain the oysters and put them in a mortar with a tablespoon salt, one drachm cayenne, and two drachms pounded mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it again five minutes, and gkim well ; rub the whole through a sieve, and when cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed. P€2)per Catsii]). — Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three quarts vinegar, three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions and one clove garlic. Boil until soft, and strain through ^ sieve. Then add two tablespoons each of black pepper, allspice, mace, cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes ; then bottle. Some add one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar. Plum Catsup. — To three pounds fruit take one and three- fourths pounds sugar, one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon and pepper, and a very little salt ; scald and put plums through the sieve then add sugar and spices and boil to right consistency. Tomato Catsup. — Half bushel ripe tomatoes, four ounces salt, three ounces ground black pepper, one ounce cinnamon, half ounce ground cloves, one drachm cayenne pepper, one gallon vinegar ; slice the tomatoes and stew in their own liquor until soft, and rub through a sieve fine enough to retain the seeds ; boil the pulp and juice down to the consistency of apple-butter (very thick), stirring steadily all the time to prevent burning ; then add the vinegar with which a small cup sugar and the .rpices have been mixed, boil up twice, re- move from fire, let cool and bottle. Those who like the flavor of onions may add about half a dozen medium sized ones, peeled and sliced, fifteen minutes before the vinegar and spices are put in. Tomato Catsup. — Take one bushel firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them off nicely with a damp cloth, cut out the cores, and put them in a i^orcelain-lined iron kettle or a genuine bell-metal one. Place over tlio fire, and pour over them about three pints water, throw in two large handfuls peach leaves, with ten or twelve onions or shal- lots cut fine. Boil until the tomatoes are done, which will take a])Out two hour;- ; then strain through a coarse-mcsh sieve, pour the li([uid back again into the boiling kettle and add half a gallon good strong cider vinegar; have ready two ounces ground s}>ice, two ounces ground black pepper, two ounces mustard (either ground or in the seed, as you prefer), one ounce ground cloves, two grated nut- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 167 megs, two pounds light brown sugar, and one pint salt ; mix these ingredients well together before putting in the boiler ; then boil two hours, stirring continually to prevent burning. If you like the cat- sup "hot," add cayenne pepper to your taste. When cool, fill bot- tles (reeded bottles are the nicest, they can be procured at the house furnisher's and a set will last some time ; they look better than ones of all sizes and styles). Cork and seal Avith bottle-wax so as to ex- clude the air. Keep in a cool, dry place for future use. This recipe is preferred to all others — it has been used for years. It keeps well, and has been pronounced by competent judges superior to all others. Tomato Catsup. — Stew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced tomatoes, add two tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper and quarter tablespoon ca^^enne, more or less as liked, cup of brown sugar and pint vinegar. Boil to the consistency of cream, watching carefully to prevent burning, then set on back of stove and add half a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a pint of currant jel- ly, mixing thoroughly ; can or bottle while hot. Horse-radish bot- tles or any small, wide-mouthed bottles are best for this purpose; seal with corks and dip in sealing wax. This Avill keep two years. Walnut Catsup. — Procure one liundred walnuts at the time when you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with a handful salt and one quart vinegar; let them stand eight days, stirring every day, then drain the liquor off them, add one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and whole black peppers, small piece liorse-radish, twenty shallots, or onions, and one- lourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour. It may be strained or not as preferred, and if required a little more vinegar can be added accordinof to taste. Bottle and seal. Almond Sauce. — Blanch and pound sweet almonds and add enough white stock to make it of the consistency of thickened gravy. Pour over boiled mutton-chops. Anchovy Sauce.. — Bone four anchovies and pound them in a mortar to a paste with one ounce butter. Melt a half pint butter and when hot stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne to taste, sim- mer three or four minutes and if liked add a few drops of lemon juice. A quicker and easier way of making this sauce is to stir one and one-half tablespoons anchovy essence into one-half pint drawn butter, add a little lemon juice and seasoning to taste ; boil one min- ute and serve. Less of the essence may be used if thought too strong. Serve with baked fish. Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and quarter tart apples, throwing into cold water until all are pared, to preserve their whiteness ; put them 168 CATSUPS AND SAUCES in a saucepan with sufficient water to moisten them and boil till soft enough to pulp; beat them, adding a small piece butter, and some like a little sugar and nutmeg. Serve with roast pork, goose, or duck. May be colored, if desired, with beet root, cochineal, or a little si)inach juice. To make Brown Apple Sauce^ cook the apples in half pint brown guivy and finish as above, leaving out sugar, and seasoning with cayenne instead of nutmeg. Asparagus Sauce. — Break a bundle of green asparagus in the tender part, wash well and put into boiling salt water, to render green ; when tender take out, ])ut into cold water and drain on a cloth until all moisture is absorlied. Put one tablespoon fresh but- ter in a saucepan with a small bunch parsley and three or four green onions ; lay in the asparagus and fry the whole over a sharp tire five minutes ; add salt, a large lumj) sugar and four tablespoons white stock and simmer another five minutes ; rub all tln'ough a sieve and if not a good color use a little spinach coloring. This sauce should be rather sweet. Bread Sauce. — Put giblets of a fowl witli the )ieck and legs in a saucepan with one onion, twelve whole peppers, one blade mace, salt to taste, and rather more than a pint water ; let simmer one hour, strain the liquor over three-fourths ])ound bread crumbs, cover and leave one hour where it will keep warm, then beat up with a fork until nice and smooth ; boil three or four minutes, stirring until rather thick, add three tablcsi^oons melted butter or cream, and send to table hot Avith roast fowl or game. A nice Avay of serving is to fry coarse crumbs a light brown in tablespoon very hot butter, stir over hot fire two minutes without burning. Cover the breasts of roasted birds with these, and serve the sauce poured around the birds, or in a gravy dish. Add the chopped gildets for Gibht Saure. Another good bread sauf-e can be made by placing a sliced onion and six peppercorns in a half pint milk over boiling water until onion is per- fectly soft ; strain it over a half pint grated bread crumbs without crust and leave it covered for an hour ; beat it smooth, add pinch of salt and two tablespoons butter rubbed in a little fiour ; add enough sweet cream or milk to make it the proper consistency and boil a few minutes. It must be thin enough to pour. Caper Sauce. — To a pint drawn butter sauce add three table- spoons capers, either whole or chopped once or twice ; a hard boiled egg chop})ed fine may be added, or just after taking from fire stir in yolk of an egg beaten w'ith teasi)oon water. If to be served with fish flavor with teaspoon each lemon juice and essence of anchovy. Or chop two tablespoons capers and add them to a half ])int drawn butter, with piece of lemon, teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and a pinch cayenne ; put on fire and simmer a few minutes ; mix a teaspoon flour with a very little cold water and add to sauce. Mutton Caper Sauce is made as follows : Fifteen minutes before CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 169 the mutton is done melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir into it one tablespoon flour ; when thoroughly mixed add half a pint of the liquor in which the mutton is boiling, and half a pint of milk, season Avith pepper and salt, cook a few minutes, and just before serving (in order that their color may not be lost l)y standing) add two heaped tablespoons capers. Never let sauce boil after adding capers. Celery Sauce. — Scrape the outside stalks of celery and cut in pieces an inch long, let stand in cold water half an hour, then put m boiling salted water, enough to cover, and cook until tender; drain off water and dress Avith butter, salt, a little mace, and milk or cream, thickened with a little flour. Or make a dressing by adding to half pint milk or cream the Avell-beaten yolks of two eggs, a bit of butter, a little salt and pepper and grated nutmeg ; bring just to boiling point, pour over stewed celery. Another sauce is made by cutting the tender parts of a head of celery very fine. Pour on water enough to cover them, cover the saucepan and set where it will sim- mer one hour; mix two tablespoons flour and four of butter; when tlie celery has boiled one hour add to it the butter and flour, one pint milk or cream, season to taste, boil up once and serve Avith roast duck, or roast or boiled fowl. Chestmtt Sauce. — Take one-half pound shelled chestnuts, and put them into boiling Avater for a fcAV minutes ; throAV into cold Avater, take off the thin inside skin and put them into a saucepan with a half pint Avhite stock and tAvo strips lemon peel, or a tea- spoon juice, and let them simmer an hour and a half, or until chest- nuts are quite tender. Put the Avhole through a hair sicA^e AAdth a AA'ooden spoon, add seasoning of cayenne and a gill of cream ; let it just simmer, but not boil and keep stirring all the time. SerA^e A^ery hot and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, tAvo teaspoons butter and one of flour AA'ill be required ; melt butter, stir in flour, and Avhen smooth add to the mixture. If sauce is not perfectly smooth rub again through a sieve. To make Broum Chestnut Sauce take same_ proportions, using any soup stock, or the broth from the foAvl, if boiled, stirring butter and flour over the fire until browned, or adding a teaspoon caramel coloring. Serve either of the aboA'e sauces with roast turkey or other roast or boiled fowl. Chill Sauce. — TAvelve large ripe tomatoes, three ripe or tAvo green peppers, leaving out half the seeds, two onions, tAvo table- spoons each salt and sugar, one of cinnamon, three cups Aanegar ; peel tomatoes and onions, chop separately very fine, add the finely chopped peppers Avith the other ingredients, and boil one and a half hours. Bottle, and it Avill keep a long time. Stone jugs are better than glass cans. One quart of canned tomatoes may be used instead of the ripe ones. This chili sauce is excellent and "much better and more healthful than catsups. If liked more highly spiced add one- 170 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. half teaspoon cloves and one-third teaspoon each ginger and nutmeg. A half pint of Worcestershire sauce is sometimes added. Crnh Saiwe. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make a half pint drawn butter, i)Ut in the fish and season with salt, pounded mace and cayenne to taste ; lot it gradually warm through and sim- mer two minutes. It should not boil. Almost equals lobster sauce and served the same. Cranherry Sauce. — After removing all soft berries, wash thor- oughly, place for about two minutes in scalding water, remove, and to every pound fruit add three-quarters of a jDOund granulated sugar and a half pint water; stew together over a moderate but steady fire. Be careful to cover and not to stir the fruit, but occasionally shake the vessel, or api)ly a gentler heat if in danger of sticking or burning. If attention to these ])articulars be given, the berries will retain their shajie to a considerable extent, which adds greatly to their appearance on the table. Boil from five to seven minutes, remove from fire, turn into a deep dish, and set aside to cool. If to be kept, tliey can be put up at once in air-tight jars. Or, for strained sauce, one and a half pounds of fruit should be stewed in one pint Avater for ten or twelve minutes, or until quite soft, then strain through a puree or fine wire sieve, and three-quarters pound sugar thoroughly stirred into tlie pulp thus obtained ; after cooling it is ready for use. Serve Avith roast turkey, roast pork or game, ^^"hen to be kept for a long time without sealing more sugar may be added, but its too free use impairs the peculiar cranberry flavor. For dinner-sauce half a pound is more economical, and really ])referalile to three-quarters as given above. Use a porcelain or granite ironware kettle. Some pre- fer not to add the sugar until the fruit is almost done, thinking this plan makes it more tender, and preserves the color better. Cream Sauce. — Heat one tablespoon butter in a skillet, add a tablespoon flour and stir until ])erfectly smooth, then add gradually a cup cold milk or cream, let boil up once, season to taste with salt and pepper, and a little mace or lemon juice if wished, and serve. Butter may be omitted when cream is used if thought too rich. This is very nice for vegetables, omelets, croquettes, delicate meats, fish, or sweet breads. Currayit Sauce. — Half an hour before venison is done pick over an ounee of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire in half i)iut hot water and boil them fifteen minutes ; then add two heaping tablespoons bread crumbs, oneof butter, a palatable season- ing of salt and ])epper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce gently; just before serving it add a tablespoon currant jelh'' beaten with a cup water or stock, or gravy from the game. Serve with venison or other game. CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 171 Currant Jelly Sauce. — Three tablespoons butter, one onion, one bay leaf, one sprig celery, two tablespoons vinegar, half cup cur- rant jelly, one tablespoon flour, one pint stock, seasoning. Brown butter and onion, add flour and herbs, then the stock, and simmer twenty minutes. Strain, skim off the fat, add the jelly and stir over the fire until melted ; serve Avith game. Curry Sauce. — One tablespoon each butter and flour, one tea- spoon curry powder, one large slice of onion, one large cup stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut the onion fine and brown in the but- ter, add the flour and curry powder, stir one minute, add the stock and season to taste. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve. Good with a boil or saute of fish or meat. Drawn Butter Sauce. — Rub two tablespoons butter into half a tablespoon flour, beating to a cream,adding,if needed, a little salt ; pour on it half a pint boiling water or milk, stirring it one vxiy rapidly, and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boiling makesj it oily and unfit for use. The boiling may be prevented by cooking in the cus- tard kettle as heretofore suggested, or placing the saucepan in a larger one of boiling water, covering and shaking frequently until it reaches the boiling- point. Now pass through a sieve and stir in a tablespoon butter cut in pieces. If necessary to reheat, return to custard kettle. This makes one pint sauce. If liked acid, a few drops vin- egar or lemon juice may be added just before serving. In the thickening of all sauces, let it be remembered that butter and flour sliould be well cooked together before the sauce is added,to prevent the flour from tasting uncooked. In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be used to cook the flour, adding the remainder cut in pieces after the sauce is taken from the fire. This preserves its flavor. An excellent Pickle Sauce is made by adding two tablespoons finely chopped pickled cucumbers to drawn butter sauce prepared as above. Or, make with cream and add boiled cauliflowers cut with vegetable cutter, for CauliHouier Sauce, excellent with boiled fowl. Another good sauce for fowl is the Lemon Sauce, made by adding to the drawn butter sauce the chopped inside of a lemon (without the seeds) and the liver of the fowl chopped fine. A great variety of sauces which are excellent to eat with fish, poultry or boiled meats can be made with the drawn butter sauce by adding different herbs, such as parsley, mint or sweet majroram. First throw them into boiling water, cut fine, and they are ready to be added, when serve immediately with two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This makes a nice sauce to Ber\ne with baked fish. The chopped inside of a lemon without the seeds, to which the chicken liver has been added, makes a good sauce for boiled chicken. 172 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Egg Sauce. — Put one cup each water and milk on fire to scald, and -svlien hot stir in tablespoon flour, previoush'- mixed smooth with a very little cold water, add three eggs well beaten and strained, season with salt and peppei , two tablespoons butter and a little Avhite vinegar ; do not let boil after eggs are put in ; boil four eggs hard, slice and lay over the dish ; a little nutmeg and a few thin slices of lemon are sometimes added ; pour over sauce, and serve with boiled fish. Or, take yolks of two eggs l)oiled hard and mash with a table- spoon mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoons vinegar and three of salad oil. A tables})oon of catsup improves this for some. Very nice for boiled fish. Or, to a pint drawn butter sauce, without herbs, add four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Gooseberrif Sauc3. — Boil one pint green gooseberries in water until quite tender ; strain them, and rub them tlu'ough a sieve. Put into a saucepan three tablespoons French White Sauce, or veal gravy will do, with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste ; add the pulp from the goose- berries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. Serve with boiled mackerel. IloUandaise Sauce. — One-half cup broth, milk or water, cup butter, yolks of four eggs, juice of one lemon, a dozen pepper-corns, nutmeg and salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns, a scra^D of broken nutmeg and level teasi)Oon salt. When flavored strain the broth into another saucepan or tin cup. Put intw^o-thirds of the butter and the four yolks and 1)eat it with a fork over the fire until it thickens like cream. Then take it off" and beat in the rest of the butter in little bits, beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never fairly boil, only just begin to. It should be cooked in cup set in boiling water. There is a moment, about a minute after set to cook, that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. Serve W'ith fish, caidi- flower, asparagus, or any vegetable. It is golden yellow, shining and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing. Ilorse-radisJi Sauce. — Grate very fine a root of horse-radish, mix two tables])oons of it with a teaspoon salt and four tablespoons cream, stir briskly and add by degrees a fourth tablespoon vinegar. Or, take four tablespoons horse-radish and mix well with one table- spoon each sugar and salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and two tea- spoons made mustard, with sufficient vinegar to give it the consis- tency of cream. Especially nice with corned beef, and acceptable with almost any meat. It is sometimes prepared by adding to two CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 173 tablespoons grated horse-radish one dessert-spoon olive-oil (or melted butter or cream), and one of made mustard. To prepare Horse- radish for Winter^ in the fall mix the quantity wanted in the fol- lowing proportions : A coffee-cup grated horse-radish, two table- spoons white sugar, half teaspoon salt, and a pint and a half cold nnegar. Bottle and seal. Italian Sauce. — One cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy, strained and skimmed), one teaspoon minced onion, two each of minced mushrooms and parsley, juice of one lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. Pour half the juice from the can of mushrooms into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together fif- teen minutes. Nice with fried trout or other fish. If fresh mush- rooms are used they should not stand after chopping or they will turn black. Indian Chetney Sauce. — Chop eight ounces sharp sour apples, pared, cored and cut in small square pieces, and add to them eight ounces each tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and stoned raisins, four ounces each cayenne and powdered ginger, two ounces each garlic and shal- lots, three quarts vinegar, one quart lemon juice; mix the whole well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation ; strain, but do not squeeze it dr}^ ; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an ex- cellent sauce for meat or fish. Some prefer to cook the apples in the vinegar before adding other ingredients. ^ Leamington Sauce. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a ])ulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to each quart walnut-liquor allow three quarts vinegar, one pint soy, one ounce cayenne, tow ounces shallots, three-fourth ounce garlic, and half pint cooking wine. Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for u.-^e in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. The soy spoken of above is a sauce frequently made use of for fish and is manufactured by both the Japanese and Chinese, that of the for- mer being the best. This article is sometimes adulterated but when genuine it is of an agreeable flavor, thick, and of a clear brown color. Lemon Sauce. — Put three-fourths pint cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with one lemon-peel, one-half teaspoon whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let these infuse 174 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. for half an hour, when simmer gently for a ievf minutes, or until there is a nice flavor of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of three tablespoons of butter and one of flour; stir this well in, and put in juice of one lemon at the moment of serving; mix one cup white stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may be used instead of crcnm, with another tablespoon flour. An excel- lent sauce for fowls, fricassees, etc. The recipe makes enough for two fowls. Or, a simple method is to cut tln-ee slices lemon into very- small dice, add to drawn butter, let boil up once and serve. Liver and Lemon Sauce. — ^Vash the liver of a fowl and let it boil a few niinutes ; peel one lemon very thin, reserve the white part and pips and cut it into very small slices; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine ; add these ingredients to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil lest the butter should oil. Serve with poultry. LAver and Parsley Sauce. — "Wash and score the liver of a fowl, boil it for a few minutes and mince it very fine ; scald a small bunch of parsley of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon ; add this with tlie minced liver to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, let it just boil and serve with fowl. Lobster Sauce. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable in order to render this snuce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mor- tar with half ounce butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it through ahair-sieve,and coveruptill wanted. Make three-fourths pint of drawn butter, and add one tablespoon anchovy sauce, one-half ounce l)utter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace if liked, and two or three tablespoons cream. Mix well before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the color would im- mediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be served with turliot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed through a sieve, without butler) should be saved to garnish with; but as the goodness, flavor, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having a proj^er quantity of spawn, the less used for gar- nishing the better. This makes sufficient to serve with a small turbot, a brill or salmon for six persons. For a very small lobster, use only a half pint drawn butter and season as above. The re- mains of a cold lobster may with a little care be converted into a very good sauce. Or, break the shell of the lobster into small CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 175 pieces ; pour over them one ]iint water or veal stock, add a pinch of salt and"^ simmer gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. Mix two ounces butter Avitii an ounce flour, strain the liquid upon it and stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens ; do not let it boil. Add two tablespoons of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Improved by a tablespoon of lobster butter if at hand. An economical sauce may be made by chopping the meat of the tail and claws of a good-sized lobster into pieces (not too small). Half an hour Ijefore dinner, make half a pint of drawn butter, add the chopped lobster, a pinch of coral, another of cayenne, and a little salt. Mai/07inaise iSauce. — ^^'ork the yolks of two raw eggs to a smooth paste and add two salt-spoons salt, half a salt-spoon cay- enne, a salt-spoon dry mustard and a teaspoon olive oil ; mix these ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon; take the remainder of half a pint olive oil and add it gradually, a tea- spoon at a time, and ever}'- fifth teaspoon add a few drops of lemon juice until you have used two lemons and the half pint oil. Or, rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs Avith the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste ; add a heaping teaspoon salt, two salt-spoons white pepper, and two salt-spoons made mustard ; mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture alternating witli^a tea- spoon of tarragon vinegar until you have used three tablespoons vinegar. Should the sauce appear too thick add a wineglass of cream gradually. In mixing the oil and lemon juice or vinegar, some put in only a few drops at a time, alternately, to insure against curdling. Yor a Fish Mayonnaise this sauce may be colored with lobster-spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley juice may be used to add to its appearance. Mint Sauce. — Take, fresh young mint, strip leaves from stems, wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth ; chop very fine, put in a sauce-tureen, and to tliree heaped tablespoons mint add two of pounded sugar ; let remain a few minutes Avell mixed together, and pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar. If members of the family like the flavor but not the substance of the mint, the sauce may be strained after it has stood for two or three hours, pressing it well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make the sauce two or three hours before dinner, so that the vinegar may be impregnated with the mint. Serve with either boiled or roast lamb. The addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor from the meat is an improvement. This makes sufficient situce for a three or four-pound joint. When green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may be substituted for it and will be found acceptable in early spring. Olive Sauce. — Two dozen queen olives, one pint rich stock, the juice of one lemon, tAvo tablespoons salad oil, one of flour, salt, pep- 176 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. per, a small slice of onion. Let the olives stand in hot water half an hour to extract the salt, then i)laee in cold water five minutes. Put onion and oil in stcAvpan, and as soon as the onion hegins to color add Hour. Stir until smooth, and add stock. Set hack where it will simmer. Carefully stone the olives hy paring them round in rihbons so that they inay recover their shape when stoned. Put them in the sauce, add seasoning, and simmer twenty minutes. Skim carefully and serve. If sauce is liked thin, half the amount of flour given'can be used. This sauce is for roast duck and game. Onion Sauce. — Peel nine large or twelve middling-sized white onions, and put them into water to which a little salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain tifteen min- utes. Put in sauce] )an, cover with water and boil until tender, changing the water, if onions are very strong, when tliey have boiled fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly, chop and rub through sieve, ^lake a pint drawn butter, and Avhen it boils jnit in the onions, sea- son with salt, stir till it simmers and the sauce will 1)6 ready to serve. If directions are carefully followed this White Onion Sauce will be delicious. Serve with roast shoulder of mutton or broiled raljbit. To make this sauce very mild and delicate use Spanish onions which may l)e obtained from first of Seiitcmber to Christmas. Two or three tables])oons cream added just before serving improves it very much. A knife and sieve or small wire strainer should be kept ex- ])ressly for })reparing onions, that their flavor may not be imparted 1o other dishes. To make Brown Onion Sauce slice and fry the (iniuns in butter, add half pint any gravy, simmer until tender, skim off all f;it, season Avith pepper and salt and ]nit through a sieve, re- heat and serve. When a high flavoring is liked add one tablespoon mushroom catsup. Orange Sauce. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut into slices, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the saucepan two si)()ons of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange and a little sugar; simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water fowl ; cayenne and mustard may be added if liked. Oyster Sauce. — Strain the liquor from a half pint oysters and add enough milk or water to make one pint ; stir in a half cup but- ter beaten to a cream with two tablespoons flour. Let this come to a boil, add the* oysters and let them boil up once — cooking long hardens them. If wanted really nice the oysters should be bearded. Or add a few dro])S lemon juice or vinegar, a tables})Oon capers, or use a seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. The sauce is richer if cream instead of water is used in making the drawn butter, but in this case do not add the lemon juice or vinegar. Never allow less CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 177 than six oysters to each person, unless making a large quantity. Serve with fish or boiled poultry. To make Broicn Oyster Sauce, use above ingredients, stirring butter and flour together over the fire until a dark brown, and serve with boiled or stewed beefsteak. Parsley Sance. — Boil two tablespoons parsley slowly in slightly salted water, drain and cut fine, and add it to one-half pint smoothly-made drawn butter, with -one-half teaspoon salt and a tablespoon vinegar. Boil up and serve. If sauce is wanted to look green boil the other ingredients together and pour over the scalded and chopped parsley already in the gravy tureen. Stir once or twice and serve with calf's head, boiled fowl, etc. Shrimp Sauce. — Free a pint of shrimps from bits of sea-grass and broken shells, throw them into salted boiling water, and boil them for a few moments, until the shells turn red, then drain them and break ofi' the heads, legs and shells ; the available part is the flesh of the tails. After the shrimp are prepared, put a tablespoon each of butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire . and stir them until tbey are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint boiling water, season the sauce with two saltspoons salt and a liberal dust of cayenne, put in tbe shrimp, and serve the sauce with boiled fish. Garnish the dish with a few whole shrimps. Another method of making this sauce is to add to a pint drawn butter sauce a half can shrimps, flavor with two tablespoons essence of anchovies or a tea- spoon anchovy paste. At the last moment a few drops lemon juice and a little cayenne may be added. Tartare Sauce — Yolks two eggs, gill salad oil or melted butter, salt-spoon salt, half a salt-spoon ])epper, a tablespoon good cider vinegar, half teaspoon each mustard and sugar, and a tablespoon gherkins. Beat together lightly in a small bowl the vinegar and yolks, add to these, drop by drop, the salad-oil or melted butter, taking care to stir the same way all the time ; when this is done, season the mixture witli pepper, salt, and mustard ; add also the gherkins finely chopped ^or capers may be substituted), and serve in a gravy boat with bciled salmon or cold meats. Or, mince two small English pickles, one-fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. Add them to three tablespoons mayonnaise sauce and the juice of half a lemon. ]\Iix and serve (see mayonnaise sauce;. A few tarragon leaves will improve the sauce. This is called the perfection of sauces for fried fish. Tomato Sauce. — Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves, and pep- per and salt, for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced onion and a sprig of parsley), strain through a sieve, put on the stove in a saucepan in which a lump of butter the size of an egg and level tablespoon flour have been well mixed and cooked, stir all until smooth, and if wanted to remove seeds put through a sieve, reheat and serve, 178 CATSUPS AXD SAUCES. Canned tomatoes may be used as a substitute. Or stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint stock with a sUce of ham cut into dice, a bay- leaf, a blade of mace, three drops pepper sauce and three small pickled onions ; stir the whole over a gentle fire until done, then press them tlu-ough a sieve, add salt, and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. French Tomato Sauce. — Cut tomatoes into quarters and put them in saucepan with salt to taste, a good handful of basil, and three or four cloves of garlic ; a little water should be put into the saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching. When they are thor- oughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve and wait till all the water has drained from them. Throw away this water and ])ass the tomatoes through tlie sieve ; ]>ut the l)ul]) into a saucepan, boil half an hour, and a moderate quantity of black pepper may be added to taste. When tlie sauce is quite cold put it into wide-mouthed bot- tles, cork tightly and tie up each cork Avith string or wire ; dip the neck of each bottle into melted resin and they may then Ije put away to be used when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, for once opened the sauce will no longer keep good. If before put- ting on the wire the bottles of sauce are placed upright in a large vessel full of cold water and this is put on the fire until the Avater boils, the preservation will be more certain still, and the sauce will keep good for any length of time. Care must be taken, however, not to remove the bottles from the vessel until the Avater has become perfectly cold. White Sauce. — Stir one tablespoon each butter and flour together over the fire until smooth, add one pint milk, season with salt and Avliite pe])per, and let l:)oil up once. Strain if not perfectly smooth. Tliis is the plain Avliite sauce, so niee served Avith A-egeta- bles, and Avhicli is also used by many as the foundation for other sauces instead of the rich draAvn l)utter. J^roicn Sauce is made same Avay, stirring tiie butter and flour over the fire initil a dark broAvn color, and AA'hen it is at hand using a pint froth from boiling meat instead of the milk. French White Sauce. — As Avhite stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be i)repared first as folloAvs : Cut up four pounds knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham, put it into a saucepan Avhich has been rub1)ed Avith butter, moisten Avith half pint Avater and simmer till gravy l)egins to flow ; tiien add four quarts Avater, three carrots, two onions, one head celery, tweh^e white pei)pcr-('orns, a blade of mace, bunch of herl)S, tablespoon each butter and salt. Simmer five hours, skim, strain carefully, and the White Stock is ready for use. Consonune is made exactly the same Avith double the quantity of meat or half the Avater. For the sauce put one pint stock in the saucepan Avith a small bunch pars- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 179 ley, two cloves, half bay-leaf, small bunch savory herbs, three or four mushrooms when obtainable, and salt to taste. When it has boiled enough to extract the flavor from the herbs, etc., strain and boil up quickly again until it is nearly half reduced. Mix one table- spoon arrowroot smoothly with a pint cream and simmer gently five minutes over slow fire ; add to it the reduced stock, and if stock is thick continue to simmer slowly for ten minutes, but if thin, stir over brisk fire till it thickens. This is the well known Bechamel Sauce, and is the foundation of many others, especially white sauces. Many make it thick, as it is easily thinned with cream or white stock. To make Broivn Stock or Sauce stir three-fourths tablespoon flour with a tablespoon butter over the fire until a dark brown color and add to white stock. Caper Butter . — Chop one tablespoon capers very fine, rub through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix with a salt-spoon salt, quarter of a spoon pepper, and one ounce cold butter. Put a layer of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it. Brawn Butter. — Cut one-fourth pound (or four well-rounded tablespoons) butter up into small pieces, put in saucepan, dredge over a dessert-spoon flour, and add four tablespoons water and a seasoning of salt ; stir it one loay constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour ; keep stirring, but do not allow it to boil. Another way of making, which is also used as a sauce, is to mix the flour and water, rubbing down all lumps with a spoon, and put in a saucepan v/ith the water and salt, adding one-half spoon white vinegar and a very little grated nut- meg. Simmer, not boil, until it thickens. Lobster Butter. — Mix the spawn and coral of a lol:)ster with double the quantity of butter, a little cayenne, and pound in a mor- tar to a paste. May be used in flavoring lobster sauce and garnish- ing or decorating cold salmon, etc. Parsley Bittter. — One-fourth pound butter, two dessert-spoons minced parsley, the juice of one large lemon and salt and pepper to taste, well worked together. Serve over or around either meat or fish. Ca^ramel Coloring. — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water in a saucepan over the fire, stir constantly till it is a dark color, then add a half teacup Avater and a pinch of salt, let boil for a few mo- ments, take off", and when cold, bottle. 180 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Parsley Coloring. — Procure nice young parslej', and wash and dry thorough!}'' in a cloth ; pound the leaves in a mortar until all the juice is extracted, and put juice in teacup or small jar, set in a saucepan of boiling water and warm it just enough to take off its rawness. Let it drain and it will be ready for coloring. Spinach Coloring. — Wash a peck of spinach, pour on it two quarts l)oiHng water and let it stand one minute. Pour off the water, and pound the spinach to a soft pulp. Put this in a coarse towel and squeeze all the juice into a small frying pan. (Two people, by using the towel at the same time, will extract the juice more thoroughly than one can). Put the pan on the fire, and stir until the juice is in the form of curd and whey. "Watch closely and do not "boil. Turn on a sieve, and Avhen all the liquor has been draineil off, scrape the dry material from the sieve and put away for use. Another mode is to put with the juice in the frying-pan three table- spoons sugar, and cook live minutes ; then bottle for use. This is really the more convenient way. Spinach green is used for coloring soups, sauces and creams. French Mustard. — Slice an onion in a bowl and cover it with good vinegar; after two days pour off the vinegar, add to it a tea- spoon each cayenne pepper and salt, a tablespoon sugar, and mus- tard enough to thicken ; set on the stove until it boils ; when cold it is fit for use. Indian Mustard. — Put one-fourth pound each mustard and flour and a half tablespoon salt into a basin, and make them into a stiff i)aste with boiling water. Boil four shallots with four table- spoons each vinegar and catsup, and one-fourth bottle anchovy sauce, for ten minutes, and pour the whole, boiling, over the mixture in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness ; put it into a bottle, with a bruised sliallot at the bottom, and store away for use. If properly prepared will kec]) for years. An excellent relish for liread and butter and very nioe with meats. Prepared Mustard. — Three teaspoons ground mustard, one of flour (two if the mustard seems very strong), half teaspoon sugar; pour boiled water cooled to lukewarm on these and mix into a smooth, thick paste ; when cold add vinegar enough to make ready for use, and serve with salt. This resembles the French mustard. Another mode of preparing is to make a dressing of one cup vin- egar, two eggs, one tablespoon each pepper, sugar and salt, butter size of a walnut ; beat well and simmer over the fire to cook the eggs ; then add a tablespoon mustard wet in lukewarm water. Mus- tard may be flavored in various ways, with tarragon, shallot, celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, etc. Tartar Mustard. — INIix a half cup mustard and a slight season- ing of cayenne with sufficient horse-radish vinegar to render it per- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 181 fectly smooth, rubbing lumps down with back of spoon, adding the vinegar a little at a time, and not making it too thin. Curri/ Powder. — An ounce each ginger, mustard, and pepper, three each of coriander seed and turmeric, one-half ounce carda- raon, quarter ounce each cayenne pepper and cumin seed ; pound all fine, sift and cork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient to season an}' thing. This is nice for sauces, boiled meats and stews. Dried Celery and Parsley. — Wash the leaves, stalks, roots and trimmings of celery and put them in a cool oven to dry thor- oughly ; then grate the root, rub leaves and stalks through a sieve and put all in tightly corked bottle. Delicious seasoning for sauces, soups, stews and dressing. Save all bits of parsley and preserve for future use in same manner, not using the roots ; or, take freshl}'- gathered parsley and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt ; put into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for two or three minutes ; take out, let drain, and place on a sieve in front of the fire, when it should be dried as ex- peditiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bot- tles, and when wanted for use pour over it a little warm water, and let stand for about five minutes. This may be done any time be- tween June and October. Celery salt is made by mixing the root dried and ground as above with one-fourth its quantity of salt. A very nice seasoning, and will kee^j a long time. Fried Parsley. — Gather some young parsley ; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; put it into the wire egg basket and hold it in boiling lard or drippings for a minute or two. Directly it is done, lift out basket, and let stand before the fire that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp, and the quicker it is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out, dry before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp it will be ready for use. This is used for garnishing. Spiced Salt. — Dry, powder, and mix by repeated siftings the following: One-fourth ounce each powdered thyme, bay-leaf and Eepper, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and cayenne pepper, one- alf ounce each powdered clove and nutmeg, and to every four ounces of this powder add one ounce salt. Keep in an air-tight vessel. Nice for spicing sauces, and one ounce of it added to three pounds stuffing, or force meat of anv kind makes a delicious sea- soning. 182 CHEESE. CHEESE. The many appetizing, varied and really elegant dishes con- cocted with the aid of cheese b}' modern cooks, render this prod- uct of the dairy indispensable to every well appointed table. And while the opinion prevails to some extent in this country that imported cheese is superior to that of home manufacture, this is not by any means true, as is proven by the fact that immense quantities of American cheese are annually exported, most of wliicli is mar- keted in p]ngland, where it is eagerly sought for. The English, how- ever, and other foreign manufacturers, brand their cheese with the name of the locality in which it is made, and hence several fine varieties, as the Stilton, the Cheshire, Gruyere, Parmesan and others have very justly become celebrated. "While equally as good cheese is manufactured in America, notably in New York and Northern Ohio, and nearly every state has factories turning out excellent prod- ucts, it goes abroad witli no distinctive brand, and is sold along with other cheese, good, bad and indifferent, simply under the name of American cheese ; and as a buyer who may have once been fortu- nate enough to secure a good American article has no means of knowing that his next purchase will be of the same manufacture, because of the American want of foresight in neglecting to jn-operly brand cheese, and often gets poor stuff under the same general name, we are placed at a great disadvantage in competing with foreign manufacturers. Instead of aiming to make home cheese famous, American manufacturers have taken to catering to the popular pre- CHEESE. 183 judice in favor of the imported article, and much of what is sold here as English, Swiss and Italian cheese, is made upon our own shores, and is of such excellent quality that the most prejudiced cannot dis- tinguish between it and the real imported brand. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the "entire" milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening before; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- sarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan, a hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed milk, and the best is that whicli has been kept three or four years, none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Cheshire is made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruj'-ere is the best of the Swiss cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are gen- erally for winter consumption, and come to us only from October to May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same shape and size ; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of 184 CHEESE. ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and California cheese, Avhich is only al>out half the weight and thickness of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like the Eastern, is handhnl loose or naked in the wholesale market. None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, while excellent, if not Uie l)est. American factory cheese is obtainable everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. Cheese may l^e had in small, round shapes, brickl)ats, the thin Cali- fornia cheeses, etc., as Avell as shaped in the ordinary large round hooj"), or by the pound therefrom. All cheese, except the foreign skim-milk makes, contains more or less coloring matter, principally annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are adulterated. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is ]:)ought in large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the larger quantity spread with a thickly buttered sheet of white paper, and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheese moist a damp cloth should be Avrapped round it (wet with white wine or alcohol is better), and the cheese put into a pan or crock kept covered in a cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them for- ward, put them into a damp cellar, and to check the production of mites spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which are too near tlie rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into \\'clsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with maca- roni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water, or by rubl.)ing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses se- lected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind. The usual mode of serving cheese is to cut a small quantit}' of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. Should the cheese crumble much, of course this 'vi^Zt "cheelT method is rather wasteful and it may then be put on the table in the CHEESE. 185 piece, and the host may cut from it. When served thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white doyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream-cheese is often served in a cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan ; the latter should be put into a colored glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, and salad, or water-cress, should always form part of a cheese course, which is served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucum- bers Avith it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the oven just a moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be served with cheese ; butter also for spreading the crackers, this being the only time that it is usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese omelets, or little cheese cakes, are good substitutes for a cheese-course. In serving a- Stilton cheese, the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas; or, to be in prime order, should be kept from ten to twelve months, or even longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by inserting a^small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the top. From three weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavor may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, ''Maderia, or old ale, and letting the cheese ab- sorb these for two or three Aveeks. But that Stilton Cheese. chccse Is tlic fiucst wliicli is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. A dry cheese is best for grating, and the Parmesan, Edam and Ched- dar are largely used for this purpose, but any dry cheese or bits left over may be utilized. If the kind called for in any of the following recipes is not at hand, use the ordinary cheese. Serve as hot and as quickly as possible, for if allowed to cool the flavor and quality of the melted or cooked cheese is spoiled. In buying cheese, that which feels soft cheese Bucket. between the fingers is richest and best. When mites have taken pos- ession of a cheese, and one wishes to use it, the following recipe will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese ; 186 CHEESE. Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton ha.= been cooked, whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few seconds, take out cheese, wij^e immediately, dry and then put it away in a dry place until required for use. The cheese bucket illustrated Avill be found the most convenient receptacle for cheese, the close-fitting cover excluding air and insects, and is much more easily moved about than a crock. Cheese Cakes. — Take twelve ounces curd made as in recipe for cream cheese, (product of four c^uarts milk), half cup each sugar, and butter, four yolks of eggs and a ])inch of salt, flavoring with grated lemon rind, or extract and nutmeg. Rub the curd, as taken from the draining cloth, through a puree sieve, add the other in- gredients and mix well together. Line patty-pans Avith paste, near- ly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. The curd mixture, though seemingly too firm at first, melts and puffs up in the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when done. These are very delicious. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is as sweet as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by scalding and draining in the same way, but will not be quite so good. Cheese Crusts. — Cut stale bread in slices about two inches and a half thick ; trim off crust, place on a baking-pan and on each slice of bread put a heaping tablespoon of any mild cheese grated, or a very thin layer of strong, rich cheese ; on the top of the cheese put very little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter, and set the pan in a hot oven just long enough to slightly brown the crusts ; watch them, because they should only be browned a little ; let them cool on the baking-pan, and then transfer them, Avithout breaking them or dis- turbing the cheese, to the dish on which they are to be served. Cheese crusts may be used at family dinners as a sort of dessert, or served at dinner or luncheon with any green salad or celery. Cheese Dlahlotins. — Put a gill milk in a stewpan, with two tablespoons butter; when boiling, stir in two tablespoons flour, keep !^^ stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stew- .*i p;^u is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, and a "" i>ound grated cheese; mix well, season with j)ep- Diabiotins. per, Salt, and cayenne, rather highly, mold the paste into balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, and serve very hot ; a quarter of this quantity may of course be made. An excellent dish. CHEESE. 187 Cheese Fingers. — Roll pie paste out thin and cut into strips about four inches long and one and one-half wide ; strew each thickly with grated cheese, season with popper and salt, double the paste lengthwise, enclosing the cheese, pinch the edges and bake in quick oven. Wash over with beaten egg just before taking out and sift a little powdered cheese on top. Shut oven door a moment to glaze them well ; pile log-cabin fashion on a napkin in a warm dish and serve hot. Cheese Fondu. — There are many Avaj's of preparing this dish, of which the following are considered the best : Four eggs, the weight of two in cheese, Parmesan or Cheshire if obtainable, the weight of two in butter; pepper and salt to taste. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat the former in a basin and grate the cheese, or cut it into verr/ thin flakes. Break the butter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughh\ Well Avhisk the whites of eggs, stir them lightly in last, and put into oven as quickly as possible. Bake in a souffle dish or small round cake tin. Fill only half full, as it should rise very much. Pin napkin round the dish if there is no ornamental receptacle, and serve very hot and quickly. If allowed to stand after taken from the oven, the beauty and lightness of the fondu will be completely spoiled. If one has not an ornamental receptacle, a pretty way of serving is to line the baking pan with paper cut in a fringe at the top. Or bake in indi- vidual molds or tins of small size lined thus with paper, or in thick paper molds of any fancied form, remembering that they must be only half filled when put in oven. Another excellent recipe is to take as many eggs as there are to be persons at table, weigh them in the shell, and take one-third their weight in the best cheese to be had, and one-sixth as much butter as cheese. To the well-beaten eggs add the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces, and stir together with a wooden spoon ; put over the fire and stir until thick and soft ; add salt and pepper to taste and serve on very hot silver or metal plate. Do not alloAv the fondu to remain on the fire after the mixture is set, for if it boils it will be entirely spoiled. Or, take one cup bread-crumbs, very dry and fine, two scant cups of milk, rich and fresh or it Avill curdle, one-half pound dry old cheese, grated, three eggs whipped very light, one small tablespoon melted butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a pinch of soda dissolved in hot water and stirred into the milk ; soak the crumbs in the milk, beat into these the eggs, butter and seasoning, and lastly the cheese. But- ter a neat baking dish, pour the fondu into it, strew dry bread- crumbs on the top and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately browned. Serve immediately in the baking dish, as it soon falls. Economical and delicious. Cheese Fritters. — Put six tablespoons flour in a bowl and pour a half tablespoon melted butter into the center ; add to this, by 188 CHEESE. degrees, eight tablespoons tepid water, beating all the time, yolk of one egg, half teaspoon each popper and dry mustard, and three heaping taljlespoons grated Parmesan cheese, and last tlie well- beaten white. Drop a tablespoon at a time into hot clarified fat or lard. As the fritters brown and rise to top, turn and brown the other side; place jMCce of kitchen paper (any clean, coarse brown pa])er) in a baking pan in open oven and put the browned fritters upon it for a moment that the pa}:)er may absorb the fat, then serve upon a hot plate covered with a hot napkin and garnished with sprigs of parsley. Cheese Omelet. — Beat up eggs as for ordinary omelet (see Eggs) and add to them the cheese cut in small pieces, a tablespoon to three eggs. The cheese may be stirred in quickly just before fry- ing, or strewn over the omelet in the pan. A seasoning of salt and pep]>er should be added after putting in pan. Parmesan cheese should be grated and beaten in with the eggs, adding a little more just before folding the omelet, and serving with the grated cheese sprinkled on top. Serve as hot as i:)Ossible and it will be delicious. Cheese Puddwcj. — One-half pound dry cheese, grated fine, one cup dry bread-crumbs, four well-beaten eggs, one cup minced meat — one-tliird ham, two-thirds fowl — one cup milk and one of good gravy — veal or fowl — one teaspoon butter, and a pinch of soda in the milk ; season with pepper and a very little salt. Stir the milk into the beaten eggs, then the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and meat ; lastly the cheese. Beat up well, but not too long, else the milk may curdle in spite of the soda. Butter a mold, pour in the i)udding, cover, and boil three-quarters of an hour steadily. Turn out upon a hot dish and pour the gravy over it. Or, grate three ounces cheese and five of bread; and having warmed one ounce butter in a quar- ter ]iint new milk, mix it with the above, add two well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Bake half an hour. Cheese Puifs. — Three ounces cream curd, one quart rich milk curdled with rennet, one gill milk, one tablespoon butter, one cup flour, two ounces grated cheese, three eggs. Have the curd scalded and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk with the butter in it, drop in the Hour all at once and stir the paste over the fire a few minutes ; take off fire and put in the curd and the grated cheese, and pound the mixture smooth ; then add the eggs one at a time and beat them in. Drop spoonfuls of this mixture into patty-pans, Imed thinly with pie paste, and bake in a slack oven ; or else roll mixture very thin, cut in triangular shapes, put a spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the sides like a three-cornered hat, and bake on a l)iscuit pan. They will open out in baking. Good to eat with apple-sauce. Cheese Relish. — Place small piece butter in frying-j)an with one-fourth pound thinly sliced fresh cheese and pour over it a cup CHEESE. 189 sweet milk, quarter teaspoon dry mustard, pinch salt and pepper, stirring all the time, then add gradually three finely rolled crackers and serve at once in a warm dish. Cheese Sandwiches. — Rub yolks of three hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste with one tablespoon melted butter, season with pepper and salt, and work in one-fourth pound good English cheese, grated, or any cheese may be used. Spread the mixture on very thin slices of bread, and fold. Or place slices of good rich cheese half an inch thick between slices of brown-bread and butter, set them on a plate in oven until well toasted and serve on napkin quickly while very hot. Cheese SouMe. — Two tablespoons butter, one heaping table- spoon flour, half cup milk, cup grated cheese, three eggs, half tea- spoon salt, speck of cayenne. Put the butter in the saucepan and when hot add the flour and stir until smooth but not browned, add the milk and seasoning and cook two minutes, then add the well beaten yolks of eggs and the cheese ; set away to cool ; when cold add the stiffly frothed whites, turn into a buttered souffle pan or baking dish and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve the moment it comes from the oven. The dish in which this is baked should hold a quart. Cheese Soup. — Mix one and a half cups flour with one pint rich cream, four tablespoons each butter and grated Parmesan cheese with a speck of cayenne ; place the basin in another of hot water and stir until the mixture becomes a smooth, firm paste ; break into it two eggs and mix quickly and thoroughly, cook two minutes longer and set away to cool ; when cold roll into little balls size of American walnut. When the balls are all formed drop them into boiling water and cook gently five minutes ; put them in a soup- tureen and pour three quarts of clear boiling soup-stock over them. Pass a plate of finely grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. Cheese Vol au Vents. — Cut rounds of bread from slices an inch. thick, cut out an inner round, leaving a shallow CKftvity. Dip in beaten egg and fry a light brown. Then fill the cavities with a mixture made by stir- .__,.______^ ring into a half cup of boiling water one table- chee87v^ao venu. spoon butter and five tablespoons grated cheese, and when this is melted the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season with pepper and salt, beat together one minute and put in a handful bread-crumbs. After filling the rounds of fried bread brown very quickly in oven and serve on folded napkin. Cheese Straws. — Sift six ounces flour on the pastry-board, make a hole or well in the center ; into this well put two tablespoons cream, three ounces grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, four ounces butter, half a level teaspoon salt, quarter salt-spoon each r:0}O CHEESE. ,|>epper and grated nutmeg, together with as much cayenne as can ;be taken: up on the point of a .very small penknife blade; mix all these ingredients with the tips of. the fingers to a firm paste, knead jt \v(?ll, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick, and with a sharp knife ;or pastry jagger cut it in straws about eight inches long and quar- ter of an inch wide ; lay the strips carefully on a buttered tin, and ;bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese 'stra\ys make a delicious accompaniment to salad, and may be served 'as a co^irse at dinner, either with or without crackers, but always ,with a dressed green salad, or with plain celery. Another mode of iflaking is to rub four tablespoons sifted flour with two of butter, and four of grated cheese, add one egg and season with calt and -ca;^'^hile pepper; rollvery thin, cut in narrow strips three inches in derigth, and mold either into straws or tie in true lover's knots, bake la pale brown in a hot oven and serve hot on napkin, with salads. T'oui' tablespoons bread-crumbs may be used instead of the egg, and |th"e straws made thus are often sers'ed cold for luncheon or tea. Still another excellent recipe is two cups grated cheese, one-third 'cup butter,; cayenne to taste, three-fourths cup flour, or enough to •roll as pic'Crust, one-half cup warm water; beat all to- gether, roll out and cut in narrow strips four inches long, and bake on writing paper in a hot oven, to a lightbrown. ,0r,.take half pint grated cheese and pint flour, and mix with lard as pie crust, roll and. finish as above. Serve with cZ^esesirZts. .saLad, ..piled on plate, crossing them in pairs and tying with ribbon pf different colors ; or, bake in eight-inch lengths and serve in Jog-cabin, gtyle. V ; Cheese 2oith Celery. — One-half cup each grated cheese, gravy and hutter, or poultry fat, two cups celery cut small, and a little pepper and salt. The celery should be in pieces about an inch long ftl>ii.t tQ look like macaroni ; boil ten minutes in Avater, drain, mix in the cheese, butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a pan, basting the top .with spoonfuls of the meat gravy. Serve like a vegetable in tureen or individual dishes. C^ Cheese vnih Crackers. — Soak in boiling water round milk Gj-ackers split in two, take them out carefully so as not to break them ; make layers of these slices in a little grat'in dish or a deep bJiking-dish, each slice buttered, spread with a little made mustard, |ind sprinkled with pepper, salt, and plenty of grated cheese. When air is prepared, bake them in a hot oven for ten minutes. ^' Cheese with Eggs. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices and lay in a well-buttered dish that has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and place oil eacli slitnj of egg a slice of Gruyere cheese of same shape and size ; place a bit of butter on each, pepper well, sift a few bread- crumbs over and put into good oven for about five minutes. Serve as.hotia&.possible, . CHEESE. ' 191 Cheese icith Jf a earo7ii.— Tut a pint milk and two pints water into a sviucepan with sufficient salt to flavor it ; place it on the fire and when it boils quickly drop in a half pound pipe macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender (an hour or more), drain the macaroni and put it into a deep dish Have ready six ounces grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire, sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread- crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remamder of one-fourth pound butter, and pour it gently over the bread-crumbs. Place the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs ; turn _ it once or twice that it may be equally .saiama.uier colored, and serve very "hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it be- fore the fire, as the process is more expeditious ; but it should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil and so impart a very disagreeable flavor to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, Avith a little salt, instead of using milk,' but should then have a small piece of butter mixed with it. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cottage Cheese. — Set a gallon or more of clabbered milk on the stove hetirth, or back of stove, or in the oven after cooking a meal, leaving the door open ; turn it around frequently, and cut the curd into squares with a knife, stirring gently now and then till about as warm as the finger will bear, and the whey shows all around the curd ; pour all into a coarse bag and hang to drain in a cool place for three or four hours, or. overnight if made in the evenmg. When wanted, turn from the bag, chop rather coarse with a knife and dress with salt, pepper and sweet cream. Some mash and rub thoroughly Avith the cream ; others dress with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg, omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine, add salt to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and mold into round balls. If wanted to serve immediately, drain the curd through a col- ander, pressing out all the whey possible with the back of a spoon, dress as above as soon as cold and send to table, cutting the top of cheese in little squares. Cream. Cheese. — Take three pints thick cream and put it into a clean wet cloth, adding a teaspoon salt after the creain is sour ; tie it up and hang it in a (-ool place for seven or eight days ; take it from the cloth and jjut it in another and then into a mold with a weight upon it for two or three days longer. Turn it twice a day, when it will be fit to use S(>ur cream may be made into cheese same way. If wanted to rii^en quickly, cover with 192 CHEESE. mint or nettle leaves. Or take a small pan of fresh morning's milk, warm from the cow is best, and mix with the cream skimmed from an equal quantity of the last ni;j;ht's milk. ^Varm it to hlood heat, pour into it a cup of water in -which a piece of rennet the size of two fingers has soaked all night, and jsut it in a vrarm place till the curd has formed. Cut the curd into squares, put it in a thin straining cloth, squeeze it dry,|then crumble and salt it to taste. Wash the straining cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bottomless vessel the size of a dinner plate perforated with small holes), put the crumbled curd into the cloth and fold the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the cover and set a weight on it. In six hours turn the cheese, and let stand six hours longer. Then take it out, rub it with fresh butter, and set it in a dark, dry place. Turn it every day for four or five days, when it is fit for use, and it must be eaten immediately when cut. It will keep but a few days, even in sold weather. To make a plain family cream cheese, take three half pints milk to one-half pint cream, warm it and ])ut in a little rennet ; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled; put the curds into the colander on a cloth to drain about an hour, serve with good plain cream and pounded sugar over it. To color, pound fresh sace leaves in a mor- tar to obtain the juice, and mix it with the milk while warm after the rennet is put in. Spinach i nice is an improvement. Potato Cheese. — Boil gooclf white potatoes, and when cool, peel them and grate or mash them to alight pulp ; to live jDOunds of this, which must be free from lumps, add a pint of sour milk and salt to taste ; knead the whole well, cover it, and leave it for three or four days, according to the season; then knead it afresh, and put the cheeses into small baskets, when they will part with their superflu- ous moisture; dry them in the shade, and place them in layers in large ])ots or kegs, wbere they may remain a fortnight. The older they are the finer they become. This cheese, it is said, never engen- ders worms, and in well closed vessels, in a dry place, will keep for years. This is celebrated in various parts of Europe. Pounded Cheese. — To every pound cheese allow three table- spoons butter. Cut cheese into small pieces and pound smoothly in mortar (or use a bowl and potato masher), then thoroughly mix the butter with it ; press into a jar, cover with clarified butter and it will keep several days. A good way to dispose of dry cheese ; very nice for sandwiches, and the best mode of preparing for those whose digestion is weak. May be flavored by adding a teaspoon mixed mustard, cayenne or powdered mace, to each pound cheese, and curry powder is often used. Toasted Cheese. — Rub the bottom of a heated frying-pan with a cut onion, then with butter. Put a half pound dry grated cheese into it, stirring fast to prevent burning. "When it is melted put in a tablespoon each melted butter and made mustard, and a pinch cay- CHEESE. 193 enne pepper, and lastly a tablespoon bread-crumbs, which have been previously soaked in cream, then pressed almost clry. Spread smoking hot on rounds or slices of thin toast from which the crust has been pared, and serve at once. For Toasted Cheese loitJi Eggs take one-half pound good English cheese, three eggs beaten light, three tablespoons bread-cruml)s soaked in cream, tablespoon mustard, a little minced parsley, three table- spoons butter, melted, but not hot. Beat the soaked crumbs into the KUohen cheese Knife, eggs, then the butter and seasoning, lastly the cheese. Beat very light, spread smoothly on slices of delicate toast and brown quickly upon the upper grating of the oven. The cheese knife will be found useful in preparing cheese for toasting, scooping out the inside of a d ry cheese, etc. RamakinB. — Four ounces grated, high-flavored cheese, half Cheshire and half Parmesan if obtainable, or all of one kind, two ounces each butter and bread (without crust), a scant gill milk, one- third teaspoon each mustard and salt, small pinch cayenne pepper, t^ ^es^^^ two or three eggs. Crumb the bread and boil it soft in the wHHHr milk ; add the butter, mustard, salt, pepper, cheese, and the yolks of the eggs ; beat thoroughly, then stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour this into patty pans or saucers, which ought not to be more than half filled ; bake the paste from five to ten minutes, when it should be putfecl high above the edge of the pans. Serve immediately, or they will fall. A good cheese course for dinner and nice for lunch or supper. This batter is equally nice for macaroni. Another excellent recipe for ramakins is to boil half pint milk and half the quantity of cream ; melt one ounce butter and a little salt ; mix in a spoonful flour, and stir it over the fire five minutes ; pour in milk and cream by degrees and work smooth, taking care that it is thoroughly cooked, then take off and add half a pound grated cheese, some coarse ground pepper and an atom of nutmeg, with a very little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight eggs and whites of two, well beaten ; when perfectly mixed, add the Avell- frothed whites of six eggs ; the batter should be as thick as cream. Make little paper trays, fill them half full, and bake in a very slow oven eighteen minutes. Or, bake in patty pans or small cups. Serve hot. Pastry Ramakins. — The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, etc., answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste, roll out evenly, and ^^^. sprinkle with grated cheese of a nice flavor. v::;:,^^^^^ ^8fc.^^ _ ^ Fold the paste in three, roll it out again and ' ■"''"•"iiim!ii|!^^%«r:!^ik. sprinkle more cheese over ; fold the paste, paste jaggar. " roll it out, and with a paste jaggar shape it in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ten to fifteen min- utes ; just before taking from the oven l)rush with beaten egg and 194 » CHEESE. sift over with powdered sufrar, let brown a moment, dish them on a hot najjkin and serve quickly. AMiere expense is not objected to, Par- mesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish. The recipe makes a quantity sufficient for six or seven persons. Toast RamaJcins. — Three tablespoons grated cheese, two eggs beaten light, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon anchovy sauce, one teaspoon Hour wet with cream, a pinch of cayenne ])epper. Beat the butter and seasoning in Avith the eggs, then the cheese, lastly the ilour, working until the mixture is of creamy lightness. Spread thickly upon slices of lightly toasted bread and brown quickly in the oven. Or, grate a half pound cheese and melt two oinices butter; while the latter is getting cool mix it with the cheese and well-beaten whites of three eggs ; lay buttered papers in a frying pan, put in slices of bread and lay the cheese mixture on top ; set it over the fire for about five minutes, then take it off and brown with a salamander. Scotch Bare-hit. — Cut nice, rich, sound cheese into rather thin sliees, melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and when melted add a small cjuantity mixed mustard and a seasoning of pe})per. Stir the cheese until it is comjiletely dissolved, then broAvn it before the fire or with a hot salamander. Serve with dr}' or buttered toasts, whichever may be preferred. If the cheese is not very rich a few pieces of butter may be mixed with it to great ad- vantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-toaster. Whichever way it is served it is highly necessary that the mixture be very hot and very quickly sent to table. Welsh Bare-hit. — Cut bread into slices about half an inch in thickness, allowing a slice for each person ; pare off the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from a good rich fat cheese; lay tliem on the toasted bread in a cheese- toaster ; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be eqmd- ly melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a sea- soning of iie])per, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To facil- itate the melting of the cheese it may bo cut into thin flakes or toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essen- tial to send this dish hot to talkie it is a good plan to melt the cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should always accompany them, with mustard. ])epi)er and salt ; or stir to- gether in a saucepan over the fire until sn)oothly blended, four heaping tablespoons grated cheese, two of butter, one oi milk, salt- spoon each salt and dry mustard, quarter of pepper and a dust oi cayenne. The pan must bo hot and rubbed well with butter before putting in the cheese ; stir rapidly and when melted put in butter, CHEESE. 195 next mustard and pepper. Some add a cup bread-crumbs soaked in a little milk, which should be pressed dry and put in last. Or the well-beaten 3'olks of two eggs may be added after the butter and cheese are melted. Have ready some nicely-toasted slices of bread cut in square or "diamond-shaped pieces of any size desired, and serve at once on a hot platter, as it is quite spoiled if allowed to get cold. The mustard may be omitted if desired, and some think it more delicate to dip the toast quickly, after buttering, into a shallow pan of boiling water ; have some cheese ready melted in a cup, and pour some over each slice. The best way to serve is to have little plates made hot, place a slice on each plate, and serve one to each person. The Welsh rare-bit makes a decidedly pretty course, served in little chafing-dishes in silver, or plated silver, about four inches square, one of Avhich, standing in a plate, is to be served to each person at table. The reservoir contains boiling-hot water ; the little platter holds the slice of Welsh rare-bit, which is thus kept hot. A poached egg is sometimes placed on each slice, and it is tlien served under the name of Golden Buck. Poach the eggs in boiling Avater seasoned with a little salt, half gill vinegar and teaspoon butter, place a slice of fried or boiled Ixacon on top of the poached eggs and it is sent to table as Yorkshire Rave-hit. To Toast Cheese. — Grate or slice the desired quantity of cheese and put with a bit of butter into the cheese toaster, ^^ ,,, -m which is prepared by filling the bottom with hot water. Our engraving illustrates a cheese toaster with hot water reser\-oir ; the cheese is melted in cucese Toaster. an upper tin placed in the reservoir. If one of these useful little utensils cannot be had, melt the cheese in a pie tin on back of stove or range, or over a kettle of hot water. English Bread and Butter. — This is to serve with a cheese course. Cut an even slice off a large loaf of fresh home-made bread, butter the cut end of the loaf thinl" --jiii'j'.l. then hold it against the side with the^Slilislia left hand and arm, and with a sharp, I'^'^^ad Knife, thin knife, cut an even slice not more than an eighth of inch thick ; a little practice and a steady grasp of the bread and knife will en- able any one to produce regular whole slices ; fold each slice double with the butter inside, and serve them on a clean napkin. The ™. slices may be rolled like a napkin, and served, in this ' nj. case bake the bread in the following manner : When ^^ '"^^ ,^ ^' risen in the single loaf pan, invert it upon an ordi- ■steamod" Bread Pan. uary drlppiug-pau, Icaving the other pan still over the loaf, as illustrated, and bake as other bread, taking off upper pan at end of one hour to see if it is done. This bread is more easily rolled than any other, and is also prized for eating as Avell as rolling ; slice and roll as directed in Wedding Rolls. 196 CHEESE. Fromarje. — Beat two eggs very light, stir in a half pint cream and add a half pound grated cheese and a i^incli of cayenne pepper ; pour into buttered soup plates, bake fifteen minutes and serve. Italian Balls. — Boil together tablespoon butter and eight of water, add pinch each salt and pepper, ten tal^lospoons flour and three of grated Parmesan cheese, stirring all the time, and boil a a minute or two. Take off and stir in thoroughly three well-beaten eggs. Divide mixture into balls and poach them in three-quarters pint boiling milk ; when done place on sieve to drain. Make a sauce of tal)lespoon butter, four of flour and one and a half pints milk; let simmer for fifteen minutes or till it thickens. Put a layer of balls in a small baking dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then a layer of the sauce ; repeat till dish is full, strcAving grated cheese over the top; brown in oven and serve hot. Very delicious. MocTc-Crab. — Break up a half pound soft rich cheese with a cheese-knife, or fork, mix with it a teaspoon dry mustard, a salt- ppoo.n salt, half a saltspoon pepper and a dessert-spoon vinegar ; serve it cold with a plate of thin bread and butter or crisp crackers. RagamuMns. — Take raised biscuit dough, roll out to inch thick- ness, sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, roll up like a jelly roll, cut in about inch slices from the end and place in pans, with cut side down ; let rise a little while and bake quickly, liaking powder dough may be used, placing at once in oven. Very nice. Spafihciti Butter. — Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a solid cord instead of a tube. Take two cups broken spaghetti, one each of minced cheese and milk, butter size of an egg, and two yolks of eggs. Throw the spaglietti into water that is already boil- ing, and salted. After cooking twenty minutes drain it dry, and put it into the l)uttcrod dish in which it is to be baked. Put the cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucepan and stir them over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted ; mix the yolks Avith the rest of the milk, })our that into the saucepan, then add the whole to the spaghetti in tbe pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short a time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through the toughening of the cheese. This butter ought to be yellow as gold. Scallopade. — Soak one cup dry bread-crumbs in new or fresh milk. Beat into this three wcll-boaten eggs. Add tablespoon melted butter and a half pound grated cheese. Sprinkle the top with sifted bread-crumbs and bake in the oven a delicate brown. A delicious relish to eat Avith thin bread and butter. CRINKS. 197 DRINKS. Beside the wines and liquors still served at so many tables, though rigorously and wisely excluded from many others, and the universal and well-nigh indispensable coffee and tea, there are in- numerable pleasant, refreshing drinks that are easily concocted and within the reach of alL The basis of most of these is the juice of fruits, which, combined with, sugar and flavoring in liked propor- tions, forms an infinite variety of healthful as well as pleasing bev- erages. A knowledge of the proper preparation of the two every-day beverages, coffee and tea, should be among the acquirements of every housekeeper. To avoid adulteration, buy coffee in the grain, either raw or in small quantities freshly roasted. In selecting raw coffee choose that which is dry and light ; if it feels dense and heavy it is green ; buy that at least eight or ten months old, and the claim is made that the longer the raw berry is kept the riper and better flavored it becomes. The best kinds are the Mocha and Java, and some prefer to mix the two, having roasted them separately in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. Mocha alone is too rough and acrid, but thus blended it is delicious. Pure Java, if of a high order, does not need other brands of coffee to make it palatable ; but, as a rule, above mixing, or one-third each of pure Mocha, Java, and Maracaibo, makes a rich cup of coffee, while a mixture of two-thirds Mandehling Java and one-third ''male berry" (so called) Java produces excellent results; or one pound Ja.va to about four ounces Mocha and four ounces of one or two 198 DRINKS. other kinds ; and it is said that from three parts Rio, with two parts Old Government Java, a coffee can be made quite as good, if not superior, to that made of Java alone. West India coffee, though of a diflorent flavor, is often very good. Mexico coffee is quite accept- able, but the producers must clean it properly if they expect to receive patronage. Java, or East India coffee, may be known by its largo yellow beans ; Mocha comes from Arabia and has small gray beans inclining to greenish. The Rio berries are of the same color with the greenish tinge, but are of larger size, midway between Mo- cha and Java. In buying roasted coffee ascertain that it has been kept in closely covered air-tight tin box, as if in pine it will be flavored with pine, and purchase of a dealer who roasts frequently, or buys roasted coffee in small lots. Coffee roasted by machinery is of course more evenly browned, but b}' roasting it at home one is sure of having it perfectly fresh and pure. When buying roasted coffee compare it with the raw beans of the kind desired. If pure and properly roasted the coffee will be of a rich brown color and have increased fifty per cent in bulk, or each bean will be a half si;je larger than when raw. Coffee loses twenty-five per cent its weight in roasting a pound of raw coffee making only three-quarters of a pound roasted. Roast coffee with the greatest care — for here lies the secret of success in coffee-making — and ift small c{uantities, for there is a peculiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. To make the most perfect and delicious coffee, the desired quantity should be roasted just before it is made. But this involves more time and trouble than can be given by most housewives for every-day use. Pick over carefully, wash if berries are not clean, and weigh (the best will not heed washing), and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and rle Sherhet. — One pine-apple, four lemons, two quarts water, two teacups sugar; steep the pine-apple in the water for two hours; strain and add the juice of the lemons and sugar; whip the whites of five eggs, add to them three tablespoons sugar, place all in freezer and half freeze. Adding the sugar to the whites gives body to the sherbet ; it is excellent. To one-half gallon rich lemonade 222 DRINKS. add one can prepared pine-apple ; whip one pint cream and sweeten, add the whites of three well-beaten egga ana stir them both in just before freezing. Serve in glasses. Straioberry Sherhet. — Crush a pound berries and add to them one quart water, a sliced lemon, and one teaspoon orange fljwer water, if at hand. Let stand in an earthen bowl for three hours ; then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one pound powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on ice until ready to serve. Or mash two quai-ts berries and one pint sugar to- gether and let stand two hours, then add pint water and strain, rub through a sieve, soak a tablespoon gelatine in cold water to CDver, add lialf ]>int boiling water and pour this to the mixture and half freeze. Iiaspherry Sherhet is made same way. Yor Currant Sher- het-i take pint each juice, water and sugar, one tablespoon gelatine, and juice of one lemon ; soak gelatine in a little cold water, and dis- solve it in half pint boiling water, add other ingredients and freeze ; or boil one quart water and ])int sugar half an hcair ; add pint cur- rant juice and juice of a lemon, let cool and freeze. Currant Shrul). — ^lake the same as jelly, but boil only ten minutes ; when cool, bottle and cork tight, as canned fruits. Rasp- berri/, Straicherri/ and Blackberry Shruhs can be made in the same Avay ; when used, put in two-thirds ice-water ; or place currants in crock and cover with a little water ; put in a kettle of hot water and when lieated through, drain, let stand overnight and finish as Rasp- beiry Shrub. Gooseberry Shrub. — Pour enough boiling water over green gooseberries to cover them, and place a cloth over them ; let stand till cold, drain, and place juice on stove, and when boiling pour again over the berries, cover, cool, drai o;^^».„ „„i, .hen ^^^^^ /:; ;.*s and a much bettei toou x ,? ^ahle flavor. Tlic e,g '-^^'^ *:;tfu':d in cotuing, hut are of too -»- ^^Asteemed geese are often »^»* ^^^^^^^. „„d P=a-he »« "/^^/^ t,We deU- eaten alone ,Ao-e o ^^^^^, ^^^^ ^^^ <=o"^^"^°, „f eookery, en- f"' ^°"r' e ;;nplo«d i" ^^ S^-^'^'^rnt it gredicnt in pastry, cacy. i^^gg^ '^'' / forming an essential '"« ■,. ^^i^^iewben '^-%:t "ethuTare considered »o.-^^^^^^ ,,,,,„, others. Eggso^clav^ rthenware. ""''" In .v vessel with mix eggs in tin ; al. ^'l^^' ,„ pitting i"--*";." " "t^ hot- ■ darkenedroompf ^/.^^^'^...if .dark .pot appea-;V;ty gurgle MAKING OMELETS. 1 if ptoperlv made, EGGS. 227 froth. Some clai „ thH . ''"*"' *° ''' ««» -.«-_^ eggs prevents tiiem from ri """"^ "''*'' *■!« pearanee, and 60 sprinkle wu'Aim/'T.*'^^ omelet a flabby ao mmm spreading all ovpv o i ^ ""^ "Po» one side nf r. ' .^ ^^^"^^ *^e mn c.- ^ .^^®^ «nd becommcrtoo rl,-, i ^ of pan instead of ^'ightly broU tuun Lf " '""- » « -tber hMo™'.' ","- 228^ ■"" ^Tused instead of mak- ins into one largt- ^^ foui c«e ^^g^t to ad(i omelet, either mc ggs Hain,t a tablen»on cream; ; . „^ "^^r: lell. (-!--=-• „f meat o»;^^ » f^'', fo,e dishing- In ™='^;' ^^g^tables as it for the before cooking; oia is alBo a favorite dish. • in 1 well buttered ««.e.ir...-Bre*jHt^-^^^J^t^^^^^ .put "> I-^PPl^" do chopped pi* -•/" ^n ail.bake abou :S,or7e and ^ry ,^';^-\ t,' Vneat baldng drs . u^^^~^ ,„,i chicken, game orveal g a > , ,xed ?•> >'l ^,„i„s to hiss and ?om "eU'I.nd rtu ^«th t^a tc ^1^^^ ^^ "^',f hev lo° not crowd one S baking d,Bh O, t ke l^^ ^^.^ ^ ^rejul on a ^,,^, „„ ,„ iSiSSiiil sa n^'p^Vl*'- '"*'':,':Vpk closely in a i^^^Jf; ii'.eatr ligl>t. halt fn whole form agai." ana P ^^^^^^ „.ith onf, fe „,e eggs and delicious dish, thop EGGS. 229 bread-crumbs and a h\rA. '. ' — —_ slice thin-sS'o'ned't 'i^'';?;^""'^ ^^'■'^ff "e*„IwK a°df '"!' «ame time, insuring u,iiW,[f"^.o^'ed at the \ / JUenapartare to be cooIpTi^ "' cooking. *^ rest tbey can be imf L T . ^'^"^^^ ^^an the Jess, afterwards and . '*' ''^"^ ^hose cooked ^ool the shells the st'ndTri'^g^^h^r- To' dipped for an instanTin ? ! /^' ^^^s can be stands are made in sever'] . T^'"' ^^ese four t. twelve eggs Tklt t^!!' ^1^.^-? ^-m four to twelve e's "'rt"^^ '^'"'^ holding fro^ ^^^^^ boiling effffs not £ f here is an objection f^+i ''T^^^^'^n}^ "tes'rSp'fcookin^ '^.^^^ ""derstood."^ The *hf ' ""'f^'^'y '^'^7 of the volkLs lef? nn?' '? *S"ghened and becompl f':i ""^^^ *hree min- evenly to the c"ntr a,fd t?^ '^ ^^^°^ '^omTe^s sl'ni?!'' "^^ >-* eggs into a dish w ' ^ *^^® result is he^f v^.fi should be cooked ingboilinl water ^;i"^^^^^ (at"' ^^^ bj pitting the eggs slowly to a i^nt n^ ""'""^^s- The heat of t}. J *h^eeeggs; if than the whIZ %1^^^^-hke consistencv anH t! ^^^^^^'^ter cooks the n^ethod o7col^k J^^^^f f ^^us cookeS^I very fcj^- ^.^^^ harder «aJIy come to a boil .? ^u^ ^^:'^ ^ggs on in cok If "^^ ^"other are immediafpfv f ' '"'^'''^^ ^^^^ be in abont ?. ^^'^.terandletit grad- ^^Hsh enfolded hi rS'^'^^'^^^ «f^"«tard' Served ^^^^^''^"d yolk^ PJaterorifwpIlV T''^^^^ napkin pHcinr " ^^^ '^tand, or in «n each. Drore4 a ;Tn P°?"?^^ ^°^"d the d nn n ""'' ^^* ^^^^^^ n^ore easilv. If [nt'pnLS^/"'^"* "ito cold water' Tjfll^ ^ spoonfuI some time for tU vol ^^ \' '^^""^ ^eave thlm in f^. *^?T ^^^^ «hell ior ine yolks to harden. "^ ^he cold water for 230 " , , -1, slices season dov'ghiiuts. ^^.^^^,^1'ead triangles of ^^"^iSed egg on these ; nr over ail a *^>-ih j "?•«■;««' edmrtmeg and b««/^„tf ^1 ''°'- Serve with pS "" "."^ shake it forcemeat £'aas-~T^r.^i • vvnea over. "^er savo?y or s tet ,n h' *'"^ '^^^P««"s mixed 'ntS "' ^^^^"^ ^ith ^^ght. Take shelL of f"^ '"- chopped fine and n^^^' ''"^^"' ^um- P?\ce of the whi^e off .P f ^''^^efLlIv d^'ide In h^r^'^^gb^'-^ten ^^«hed, and coat thVn/ tv''?^ ""^^ t^'-^t'they n^v ,t ""^fi' ''^"^ ^^^t a grate of very hot ovS to hf^'^ ''''^ '^' fo^rce^ ^^' ^^^^7 when .P9ur a cup of hot n-rV '^^'^"' ^"'^ ^erve niled nh,*^^* «" "Pper jmee has been snuee ed !"T^' ""'''' «^e^« ''n o whlf '' ?-^ ?°* ^^^^h. forcemeat nnt in f^ •' ^"^ ^"erve. Or Ip«v1 ^^^^ ^ ^^ttie lemon in cracker cruST^.^l^'f ^'- ''I' ^^^o^^e shells roll- u f \vy made in m /of L^X '^ ^"^^^^^ "ntfl brown P^'^*'^ '^S, then dish for dinner.^ ^ ^"*^^^' ^^umbs and cream' ^^"' '''^"^ ^^^^m a Fricasseed E ^'^ ^^^^ellent side ?nd serve hot. Or nnf tl \ ^^''^ "^"^utes EGGS. 232 " "^^ . ., ^ ran<^e, but do — T^hot upon the side of t^^^ ^^^^^^'ould lie and let this |^eco-e — g^^^^^^ ^^^f ii^^e^eadj upon a pla^ not let itactuallyboii ^^^ tes. m^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ evenly thus in the gravy tor a^ ^^e^^' :, w Ter small slices of mce;> ^^^ ^^^^^ ^..^e ho . .pon this, pour ^^ ^J ^^^^^ ,^^^ ,,e eggs one ^v one^-^^- Fried £:^.^-^.r^v them m^til the white ^« f ^'^^^^ o' on the ham >.nt fat and dip it over them ui ^^ ^^^^.e^ Thp Med in other fat \o^eimnnies^.,^ l^kecL J^ey ^^^/.^ they ^f L^/^S catsup or a ^f chopped onions a^;^ ^. ^g^^, a little ^•a^^.^.f \u The'^fried egg seasoned with ^^^ • u jg desired y.w^u,^^-- , • each egg P\\\^ P^fernate lavers ; luix some ^ J\^^^,_ fire until quite thicu, „„,„te volks in Switzerland- .1,»11, of a dozen eggs- sepa™ f-t^^^ «« — ''"'' and a little red pepper, p serve. . , :^\\. or meat broth ,zr . Moi'^ten bread-crumbs ^^lm^^^^^ ScallopeclE^f;--^!^^^^^^ . place a layer of tl ^^ ^ ^^ ^ • ^.^. ^.awn- and season ^vith salt ^^5 P^J^f,^^, and dip each ^bce ^ a u ^ .^^ ^^^ ' ^^-^ ^t^l^^efet^ egg V^-^- ;^^i l^m, veal or butter sauce « ^^^^^ .;\,,bg, then a ^bght la> ^r ot ^.gad-crumbs , of them upon the cium ' ^ • ^^^^^.g ,vith dr> . biue chicken, then bread, etc., EGGS. 235 bake until well heated ; or, put upon the layer of bread-crumbs a layer of minced ham, seasoned with onion and parsley ; set in oven, closely covered, until smoking hot. Have four eggs stiffly beaten, season with pepper and salt, add two tablespoons cream or one of melted butter, and pour this evenly upon the layer of ham. Put the dish back into the oven uncovered and bake until the egg is set. Individual Scallops are made of lightly minced hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks together, or yolks only. Butter scallop shells, or little tins made to resemble them in ^^^^ shape, strew in a portion of the egg, then sprinkle scaiior some seasoned grated toast over the egg, and so on al- ternately until shells are filled ; sprinkle a little Chili vinegar on top, lay a piece of butter upon each, and place them in oven until sufficiently done. Grated Parmesan cheese, essence of shrimps or anchovies, chetney sauce, catsup, or truffles, may be added to give them the flavor liked, Scramlled Eggs. — Warm sweet milk in a deep earthen pie plate, allowing two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a large number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of walnut, or omit the but- ter and use cream in above proportion or only half as much, and a little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed knife gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from the bot- tom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at the bottom, move the dish back instantly, shifting it over the heat as needed, or even raising it, if cooking too fast, for success depends wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions being of second- ary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it well heated. The mixture should be in large flakes of mingled white and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Or for plain scrambled eggs omit the milk ; some beat eggs before scrambling, just enough to mix whites and yolks, and minced ham is sometimes added. Scrambled upon a plate that has been heated very, very hot and rubbed with a bit of butter, they are relished by those who like eggs but little cooked. Serve scrambled eggs hot over slices of moist buttered toast, or fried bread spread with anchovy paste, if liked, and the dish is called Mumbled Eggs. Or beat up the eggs with pepper, salt and a little chopped thyme ; rub the sauce-pan or bak- ing dish with onions before putting in the eggs, cook as above and send to table as Savory Eggs. A great variety of dishes may be made by adding to the beaten eggs (with two tablespoons milk to each egg if liked), any of the following : For savory dishes — chopped tongue, oysters, shrimps or prawns, preserved sardines, dried salmon, ancho- vies, herbs, truffles, pickles, potted meats, sausages, shred lemon-peel, XGG9. ^!!_— Z^^xeer. peas.beets.musli- onions, artichokes, shallot. aspa-g.^^toj>. orange, Citron, or lemon p ,.. ai«hes each large enough ^ jHtle salt and !«1 f ^ °4"j„ ,„,,; person, ^'=", f''^ ° t e^d-crumbs the ^vhites ; serve ?'"'-'''''",,"„ „ay be nw>»klcJ « it" f'' j ^wo pretty plates I ^^M"^^ uS^nder before ^^'^^X given by Snd browned ^vlth no ^^j^ disl>. '^"lks of six eggs in a bowl, add milk and bread, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites and pour into hot pan prepared with a tablespoon butter ; finish as in Plain Omelette. Some add a little grated nutmeg and also cut in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown, and serve. Or add one tablespoon flour, one onion chopped fine, half pint chopped parsley, pepper and salt; finish as above and serve as a Freyich Omelette; or omit milk and flour and use only half cup bread crumbs and add three tablespoons soft butter and two of grated cold ham and a Savory Omelette will result. Less eggs may be used in any of the recipes. Cheese Omelet. — Boil in pint new milk until dissolved a half pound good rich cheese, sliced thin. Stir in four eggs beaten very light. Toast some bread, butter evenly, putting on a little mustard, keep stirring the omelet and add a little salt ; when thickened, which will be in five minutes, if fire is good, pour the omelet over the dished toast and serve very hot. Corn Omelet. — Beat three eggs lightly, separately if wished extra nice, add third cup milk, three-quarters pint sliced cold boiled corn, three tal^lespoons butter, season and finish as Plain Omelet, Cream Omelet. — Beat together yolks of three eggs, one and a half tablespoons corn starch and teas)>oon salt. To this add half cup milk and Avell-frothed whites. Have the omelet pan with a close fitting cover, hot^ put in tablespoon butter, when it bubbles pour in omelet, cover and place Avhere it Avill not burn. Cook eight minutes, fold and turn on a hot dish, pour around it a cream sauce and serve at once. Meat or Fish Omelet. — Take cold meat, ham or tongue, fish, game, or poultry of any kind ; remove all skin, sinew, etc., and either cut in small pieces or pound to a paste in a mortar, Avith seasoning to taste of spices and salt ; then fry in a buttered frying-pan till it begins to brown, and pour the beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set in the pan. In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce, but garnished with fried parsley, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right f)roportion is one tablespoonful of chopped meat to four eggs. A ittle milk, gravy, or water may be added to the eggs while being beaten. Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. For Mixed Onielet equal portions of cold chicken or turkey may bQ 242 OMELETS. used with ham or tongue, seasoning if liked with a little chopped onion, pepper and sweet herbs. Put in the pan with a ladle and fry in flat cakes. Milk Omelet. — To lightly beaten yolks of three eggs add three tablespoons milk, or more if wished, and stir in lightly the well beaten whites ; cook as in first recipe, or bake in oven as described in general directions and serve as a Baked Omelet^ adding salt just be- fore placing on dish. Mushroom Omelet. — Lightly fry some pickled button mush- rooms in either fresh butter or oil. "\Vhen fresh button mushrooms can be obtained, they should be cleaned and dipped into lemon-juice, and afterwards either lightly fried in butter, and the eggs poured over them ; or simply, without being fried, laid upon the eggs when poured into the pan ; add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and serve when sufficiently done. Olive Omelet. — Stone and halve a tablespoon Italian olives ; add them to the yolks of seven and the whites of five eggs, beaten up with the juice of an orange. Heat some olive-oil in a frying-pan, pour in the omelet, and directly it is well set, double it up, and serve it upon a napkin folded in a dish. Orange Omelet. — Three eggs, teaspoon each orange juice and grated rind of orange ; beat j'^olks and whites separately, then mix them carefully together and put in a buttered, heated frying pan. If liked, strew fresh sugar over it and glaze with salamander. Make Lemon Omelet same way. Oijster Omelet. — Cook fifteen oysters rare done in little sauce- pan separately, with a tablespoon milk, scrap of butter and thicken- ing to make white sauce of the liquor ; break the four eggs in a bowl, put in a tablespoon milk and beat with the wire egg whisk ; add a pinch of salt. Shake a talilespoon melted lard about in the large omelet frying pan and before it gets very hot ])our in the omelet and let it cook rather slowly. "When nearly done in the center place the oysters with a spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the further eage to cover them in ; slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- nish with parsley and lemon. Plain Omelet. — Put the yolks of three or four eggs into a bowl and beat lightly ; add one tablespoon butter broken into small pieces; this makes a much lighter omelet and should always be added ; now gently stir in the well frothed whites and a little pepper. Have the hot omelet pan prepared with one tablespoon butter and OMELETS. 243 as soon as it bubbles, stir the omelet once or twice and pour it in ; lift it with a large two-pronged fork (a carving fork will do), carefully raising the edges with the fork as fast as they cook, and turn them to- ward the center until the omelet lies in the mid- dle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or '^'"'"''• hard to suit the taste ; the inside must always be creamy. When the omelet is done to the degree desired, add salt, turn upon a hot dish without touching it with either fork or spoon, and serve at once. Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, with a little salt and pepper, and put them in- to a frying pan containing an ounce of butter, browned ; let the omelet stand for a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with a fork, and shake the pan to prevent its burning or sticking at the bottom. Five minutes will fry it a delicate brown, fold over and serve on a very hot dish ; never cook an omelet until it is just want- ed ; the flavor may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars- ley, minced onions or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing a level tablespoon of former, and half the quantity of latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the lat- ter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into small pieces. Be careful not to have omelet greasy, burnt, or too much done, and cook over a gentle fire, that the whole of the sub- stance may be heated without drying up the outside. They are some- times served with gravy ; but this should never he x>our€d over them, but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavor should be delicate, and arrowroot or rice flour should be used for thickening. For Cheese Omelet make a plain omelet as above, and as soon as it begins to thicken sprinkle in three tablespoons grated cheese. A very nice Chicken Omelet is made by adding to the plain omelet just before folding a cup of cooked chicken chopped fine and and warmed in cream sauce. Potato Omelet. — Boil two tablespoons potato flour in three- fourths pint milk for half an hour, with sugar to taste, and flavor if desired. Beat separately the whites and yolks of five eggs, stir through the milk, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. Or take two mealy potatoes, mash well with enough cream to pass them through a sieve and add a little white pepper and salt (or sugar, if for a sweet omelet) ; beat six new-laid eggs, put with the potatoes ; butter a frying-pan and heat Avell ; pour in the omelet, ancl as soon as it sets turn over the ends and serve hot. With a sweet omelet, a little cinnamon or grated lemon peel, ginger or nutmeg, may be em- ployed. PuiF Omelet. — Stir into the yolks of six eggs and whites of three beaten very light, one tablespoon flour mixed with a cup cream. 244 OMELETS. or milk, and salt and pepper to taste ; melt a tablespoon butter in a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven ; when it thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs well beaten, re- turn it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip oflf on large plate, and eat as soon as ^one. Sweet Omelet. — (Baked). Mix yolks of four eggs with four heaping teaspoons powdered sugar ; add teaspoon vanilla and care- fully cut into this the well-frothed whites; pour it on a thick metal dish well buttered and ])ake till brown, about ten minutes. Place dish on a hot platter and serve at once. If liked, dust with sugar just before placing in oven, and the chopped rind of half a lemon may be added. This may be baked in an iron frying-pan and slipped carefully upon the hot platter. Sweet Omelet. — (Fried). Mix with the beaten yolks of seven eggs two teaspoons powdered loaf-sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a little cream ; add the beaten whites, whip up all together and fry quickly so as not to scorch it ; when set, turn in the ends, sift pounded loaf sugar upon it, and glaze with a red-hot salamander or shovel ; or use sugar with any plain omelet recipe instead of pep- per and salt. For a Fruit Omelet enclose in the center any kind of jelly, marmalade or jam — currant or grape jelly is best. To make a Chocolate Omelet, put over the eggs when slightly firm a tablespoon scraped chocolate mixed to a paste with two eggs ; fold as soon as set, sprinkle powdered sugar or cinnamon over and serve. Vegetable Omelet. — Make a puree by mashing up ready-dressed vegetables together Avith a little milk, cream or grav}^, and some seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are cucumbers, artichokes, onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms, asparagus tops, potatoes, truffles, or turnips. Prepare some eggs by slightly beating and straining them; pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, well-buttered ; spread the puree in the center, and when perfectly hot, fold and serve. Or, cold vegetables may be merely choppea small, then fried in a little butter, and some beaten and seasoned eggs poured over. Water Omelet. — Break eggs in a bowl, stir rather than beat, and to each three eggs add a teaspoon or so cold water, salt and pepper to taste, (or salt after cooking) and a little scalded and chopped parsley. Put tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, pour in eggs, cook as above in first recipe and serve. The water makes the ome- let light and moist. Waverl]/ Omelet. — Boil one pint and a half milk and pour it over one tablespoon each butter and flour well mixed and cook three or four minutes, stirring all the time. Let cool and then add EGGS. 245 four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, a little salt and pour in a buttered quart baking dish and bake twenty minutes. To Keep Eggs. — Put a two-inch layer of salt in bottom of stone jar, then a layer of fresh eggs, large end down, then salt, then eggs, and so on till jar is full, with a layer of salt at top ; cover and put in a cool place, but not where they will freeze. This is a simple, easy, and inexpensive way, and has been tested for years. Or, dip the eggs in melted wax, or a weak solution of gum, or in flax-seed oil, or rub over simply with lard, each of which renders the shell impervious to air, and pack away in oats or bran. For one's own use the latter is a good method, keeping the eggs perfectly, but it discolors the shells, and renders them unfit for market. Or, mix together three pounds quick lime, ten ounces salt, one ounce cream tartar and a gallon and a half boiling water and cover closely. This solution may be poured over the eggs the day after preparing. They will keep well but the shells will become very brittle. There has always existed a great difference of opinion as to which end down eggs should be placed in packing for winter use. A well known poultry breeder gives what seems to be a sound reason for packing them larger end down. He says : "The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil. Another thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, and they materially affect the keeping of eggs." 246 FISH. FISH. As a food, fish ranks just below meat on the one hand and above vegetables on the other. It is easier of digestion but less nutritious than meats, if salmon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose diges- tion is not strong. But, though it is not recommended that fish should be the only animal food of which one partakes, its value as a part of the diet is indicated by the larger proportion of phosphorus which it contains, and which renders it especially fitted for the use of those who perform much brain work. There can be no doubt that fish might with advantage enter much more largely into our family diet than it docs at present, as it would not only afford a pleasant variety in fiire, but would also supply certain elements of blood which are not obtained in sufficient quantity from either meat or vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more attention from the housekeeper. The Avhite kinds are least nutri- tious; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those being most perfect which g,o straight from their native element into the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- ity offish. In general, fish are in the best condition just before they spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of risH. 247 such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufiiciently boiled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further hints on selecting fish see Marketing. Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all scales (if hard to scrape off these may be loosened by plunging the fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be stuffed, do not split open but draw it at the gills. Rinse thor- oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- liness, drain, Avipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. To remove the earthy taste from fresh- water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; rinse off, wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally settles. When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is purchased than is immediately wanted, the surplus should be potted, or pickled, or salted and hung up ; or it may be fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. All cold fish left from any mode of 248 nsH. cooking may be used in making salads, croquettes, etc. If a portion of a salmon is not used, parboil and set it aside in the liquor, boil- ing up when wanted. It is said that fish may be preserved by- sprinkling with sugar, which does not harm its flavor, and that sal- mon tlms treated has a more agreeable taste. Those who live re- mote from the sea and cannot get fish hard and fresh should wet it with a beaten egg before mealing or breading to prevent its breaking. All fish which have been packed in ice should b(^ cooked immediately after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose thvir flavor. To bone and skin a fish, cut down the middle till bone is reached, then cut the fillet or strip out from the side, ^tig'-rrT^ ^^-^— ^^-^ avoiding the bone ; lay fillet on board, remove Boniag Knife. from skin by turning the blade of knife between the flesh and skin and keeping it perfectly parallel with the board and thus cutting and separating the skin and flesh. To simply bone a fish, remove back bone by running a thin sharp knife along under it, and with a smaller knife loosen and take out the long bones one at a time. Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and unwholesome when underdone, and the mode of cooking con- siderably affects their properties as food. Plain boiling, baking, broiling and roasting appear to be the favorite methods. Nearly all the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled and the small are fried. For boiling, a fish weighing from four to seven pounds, should be chosen ; for baking, from four to nine pounds, though the best size is six or seven ; if wanted for broiling select those weighing about three pounds and a half and split in two ; for frying, a pound to a pound and a half weight is best. The very large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. The method of cooking which retains most nourishment is broiling, baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better than boiling. In baking or boiling place a fish as nearly as possible in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, and tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie around the head. Or it may be formed in circle with tail in its mouth. Lake Superior trout and white-fish are the best for baking, and white-fish is also nice for broiling. The gudgeon is a cheap fish, rather bony, and is generally fried. The blue-fish is excellent boiled or baked with a stuffing of bread, butter and onions. Green FISH. 249 or sea-bass are boiled with egg sauce, and garnished with parsley. Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, which requires most cooking of all fish, is always stuffed and baked. The cod is undoubtedly the best fish for all purposes that comes to eastern markets, and are packed in ice and sent over the country, but because so plentiful and cheap and always to be had are not so much appreciatecl as other fish not so easily obtained. While all delicate fish lose flavor soon after they are caught, the cod not only retains but improves in flavor if kept a day or two, with tlie addition of a little salt to give it firmness. The "shoulder" is most highly esteemed. As food for invalids, white-fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal fish and whiting, are the best, while flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot and flounder, are also good. In garnishing fish great nicety is required. The principal garnishes used are slices or quarters of«lemon, fried or raw parsley, fresh fennel, pickles, scraped horse-radish, small pieces of toast, the liver of the fish, lobster coral, tomatoes quartered, sliced cucumber, sliced orange, fried oysters, fried gudgeons or smelts, etc. The latter when served as a garnish for a large fish should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting tail of fish in its mouth, and holding it with a wooden tooth-pick. After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional gar- nish of parsley and lemon slices ; or the rings may be served alone in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a tartare sauce in the center. If Fried Parsley be used it must be washed, and picked and thrown into fresh water ; then when the lard or drip- ping boils throw in the parsley right from the water and instantly it will be green and crisp and must be taken up at once. Fish with very good sauce is more appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving ; but to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and gar- nishing. One of the most essential things in serving fish is to have everything hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green peas, salt fish with beets and carrots, salt pork and potatoes and parsnips with either. If a fish is to be served whole do not cut off" the head and tail. It also presents a better appearance to stand the fish on its belly rather 250 FISH. than lay it on its side. Always serve fish, if possible, with its appro- priate sauce, which is an almost marvelous improvement to some kinds, reminding one of the old gentleman who used to remark that "the egg sauce was the best of the fish." Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness^ cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string, rubbing them with salt, or dipping into hot water to remove the slime adhering to them. They are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy flavor, and it is well to have special uten- sils for preparing and cooking fish, and used only for that purpose. The an-^teur cook should not be affrighted at the number, names and length of recipes given under this (or any other) head, but undertake any of them without fear of failure. The mode of preparing is in most cases really simple, and the directions .'^o plain that success is sure. Instead of serving fish boik^I or fried in the same old way, try some of the newer and more attractive and ap- petizing methods under baking, frying, boiling, etc., as court au hmdllon, which is merely boiling the fish in a vegetable broth fla- vored with certain herbs and .'^piccs. The collared, curried and potted fish will be found very delicious changes, and are easily prepared. Some additions may be needed to the stock of spices and herbs before beginning, but once used they will be considered as indispensable as pepper and salt and be thereafter kept on hand with as little trouble, and at very small expense. The French owe their fame as cooks largely to their skill in combining ingredients, flavors and season- ings, and their artistic methods of serving, producing from bits of cold fish, meat, or vegetables and stale crusts, with the addition of condiments, dishes both handsome and delicious. Go thou and do likewise. In liuying fish there is opportunity for the exercise of great care and judgment, even more than in buying meats, as freshness is essential to delicacy in fish. Th>; sooner it is cooked after leaving the water the pleasanter the flavor. For particular directions in selecting, consult the chapter on marketing. FISH. 251 The fish to be had in the markets of all the larger cities are enumerated below ; the fresh-water during Spring and Fall, and salt- water through the Winter also. FRESH-WATER FISH. Black Bass, Croppies, Herring, Ring Perch, Pickerel, Blue Pike, Wall-eyed Pike, Brook Trout, Lake or Mackinaw Trout, Siskiwit, Sturgeon, White Fish. SALT-WATER FISH. Sea or Green Bass, Blue-Fish, Cod, Flounders, Haddock, Halibut, Salt-water Herring, Mackerel, Spanish Mackerel, Pompano, Kennebec Salmon, California or Oregon Salmon, Sheeps-head, Red Snappers, Smelts. / Baked Fish. — After the fish has been properly cleaned and rinsed, wipe dry Avith a cloth and rub well inside with salt and pep- per. When large enough, stuff the fish with a bread stuffing, or a delicate forcemeat, and insert skewers, sew or wind with a cord to keep it in form, and dredge well with salt and pepper and Hour. The fish should be placed on a trivet, a perforated tin sheet, or a large tin plate, or if nothing better is at hand, a tin pot cover and this set into the baking pan. This ''^"'• keeps it off the bottom of the pan, thus preventing its burning, and the fish can be much more easily dished in perfect form. Plenty of butter, olive oil, or American cooking oil should be used to prevent its becoming dry, and the fish should be frequently basted while baking. Or score or cut gashes across the fish, half an inch deep and two inches long, cut strips of pork to fit and put them in the gashes, dredge as above, cover the bottom of the pan with hot water and place in a moderate oven, baking slowly first hour, then increase to a very hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes from the drippings in the pan, and after basting dredge each time with a lit- tle salt, pepper, and flour. The water in the pan must be often re- newed, as the bottom must only be just covered each time. A good- sized stuffed fish should bake an hour and a half to two hours (some bake fifteen minutes for each pound), and when done will be nicely browned if above directions are followed. Take up on a hot platter, remove the strings, garnish and serve with a gravy made from the drippings in the pan, or any sauce preferred. Some like fish baked 252 FISH. in the marinade given in Boiled Fish ; or put into the baking pan before preparing the fi?h two tablespoons butter, a carrot, turnip, potato, and onion, cut in slices, two blades mace, teaspoon white pepper, tables[)oon celery seed, six cloves and a cup vinegar; set in the oven until the fish is ready to l)ake when use it for basting, add- ing hot water as needed, serving it (strained) with the fish as a sauce, with the addition of a little fiour to thicken. Almost any fish may be baked, though those most commonly cooked in this way are Lake Superior trout, blue-fish, black-fish, pike, rock-fish, bass, white-fish, shad and mackerel. Any of the larger kinds offish may be baked in slices. Fish too small to be stuffed should be dipped in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread-crumbs before baking. Should the oven become too hot i>ut a piece of buttered writing pa- per over the fish to prevent its becoming scorched. Mackerel is sometimes baked entirely enveloped in greased writing paper, and is then served in the paper. When herrings are liked to look red some add a little cochineal and saltpetre to the drippings. Boiled Fish. — For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breakmg from an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong covered boiler, in which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each end, on which the fish rests while boiling, and with which it is lifted out when done and placed over a kettle to drain a mo- ment or two. From this tin it is easily slipped oft' to the platter on which it goes to the table. When no fish-kettle is at hand, wrap and pin in a cloth (some flour it), lay in a circle on a steamer tin, a sieve or phite, and set in a kettle. When done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed to the phitter. Some simply spread a napkin on the plate under the fish, leaving the four corners outside the kettle, with which to lift it out; or a towel or napkin may be put under the plate, the ends brought together and tied over the fish, and when done it may be lifted from the kettle, plate and all, l)y putting a fork under the knot, and so j)revent all possil)ility of the fish breaking from its own weight, as it might when lifted from the plate in a cloth, unless done very carefully. All large fish (except salmon, which is put on in hot water to preserve its color) should be put on in cold water, but small ones in l)oiling water, for the reason that fish cooks so quickly that almost as soon as it touches tlie boiling water it is done, and if a large one wi've ])Ut on in boiling water the outside would be done and the inside raw. Large fish must be cooked very gently or the outside will break l)efore the inner part is done, thus creating a waste and spoiling the handsome and appetizing appear- FISH. 253 ance of the fish ; if necessary to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it should be poured in carefully at the side of the vessel ; but the less water used the better. Fish should never be allowed to boil hard, but the water should be brought to the boiling point as quickly as possible, Avhen all scum must be taken off, and the fish kept simmering until done. Simmering is a gentle bubbling of the water. Should it begin to boil rapidly, draw it to back of range, or throw in a little cold water. In boiling fish, allow five to ten min- utes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the water, and some will be done when the boiling point is reached. To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done the fish will separate easily. Remove the moment it is done, or it Avill become "woolly" and insipid. Salmon and all dark-fleshed fish require longer boil- ing than the white-fleshed kinds. A whole mackerel needs about a Cjuarter of an hour to do it properly ; herrings, and many other sorts of fish, scarcely half so long. The addition of salt and vinegar to water in which fish is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same time hardens the water, so that it extracts less of the nutritious part of the fish. Some rub vinegar or lemon juice on the outside of the fish before putting it in the water. When only salt is added to the water in which fish is boiled it is, in French parlance, a Veaude sel; when sea-water is used the fish is said to be dressed a Vllollan- (laise; when the water is flavored Avith vinegar, spices and onions, the fish is served as au court bouillon, and simmered in a small quan- tity of water with a seasoning of savory herbs, it is a la bonne eau. A good recipe for Court Bouillon, is the following : Four quarts water, one onion, one slice carrot, two cloves, two tablespoons salt, one of vinegar, one teaspoon pepper, juice of half a lemon and a bunch sweet herbs. Tie the onion, carrot, cloves and herbs in a piece of muslin and put in the water with the other ingredients. Cover and boil slowly an hour, then put in the fish and4>oil as directed. This is also called Jfarmade, and a more highly flavored preparation is made thus : Cut fine two carrots, three onions, half a dozen shallots, a clove of garlic, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a buncli of parsley, a little celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; fry the Avhole for a few minutes, then add, very gradu- ally, two quarts water, pint vinegar, one or two tablespoons salt, two dozen peppercorns, same of allspice, and two cloves. Simmer the whole together one and a half hours, strain the liquor, and put it by for use, when fish is to be boiled; if carefully strained after the fish has been taken out it may he used several times, adding a little water each time. Fish dressed in it should simmer very gently, or rather stew than boil, as it affords to mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, roach, and any of the small river fish, the advantage of dissolving, or so thoroughly softening their bones as to render them more agree- able in eating. Large fish should be cut into steaks before being marinaded. Instead of the vinegar a cup each of essence of an- 254 FISH. chovies, and catsup may be used ; or fennel, chives, thyme, and bay leaves, may be added. Or, choose a kettle that will suit the size of the fish, into whicli ])ut the above proportions of water and vinegar with a piece of butter, some fried onions and carrots, pep- per, salt, two or three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs (first fry- ing all in a little butter), using less of each than given above if not liked so highly flavored ; simmer fifteen minutes, skim or strain, let it become cold, then put in the fish, first rubbing it with lemon juice and salt, and let it simmer until done. Serve with anchovy sauce and juice of lemon, or on a napkin surrounded with parsley, with a caper or pickle sauce, 'or any kind of fish sauce, in a sauce-boat. The fresh-water fish, or those which have no decided flavor, are much better marinaded or boiled ait court bouillon. The sea-fish, or such as have a pronounced flavor, can be boiled in simple salted and acidulated water, and another plain stock for fish is to two quarts cold water put half a cup of vinegar, tablespoon salt, a teaspoon each whole cloves and Avhole peppers, a bay leaf and half a lemon sliced if wished. Fish of the shape of herrings should, for boiling, be curled round with their tails skewered in their mouths ; small fish, such as smelts, etc., should be run five or six on a skewer through their eyes. Many prefer to serve boiled fish U])on a napkin, rather than with a sauce poured over it ; and a ]>lain white sauce is thought to be better with boiled salmon than anything less simple, serving cucumbers or melon in slices apart ; silver eels may have a sauce over them, and salt cod, boiled, is often served masked with mashed parsnips or potatoes. With bass, blue-fish and carp, serve anchovy, caper, or tomato sauce. Sturgeon and some other fish are better if just: basted and frothed before the fire after being boiled; cod's head and shoulders are much better when thus treated. Pike, boiled, can be first stuffed with forcemeat, but it is best when baked. ^Fennel should be boiled with mackerel, and gooseberry sauce served with it ; grated loaf-sugar is generally offered with mackerel, and mint is also eaten with it. Mustard is served with boiled cod, smelts, herrings, and perch. Drawn butter sauce with lemon juice or eggs is also a favorite accompaniment with all boiled fish. It is quite appropriate to serve a boiled middle cut of salmon or any large fish at a dinner; it is the best cut, easier and cheaper to serve, and one never cares vM.5a»^»,i to supply more than is necessary. This cut is ^^^>e^S^ better sloAvly boiled, also, in the acidulated salted BoiM saimou water. Broiled Fish. — Fish weighing between half a pound and four pounds are nice for broiling, though about three pounds and a half IS the best size. The small fish should be fried Avhole, and the larger ones scored, or split down the back. See that th« fish is FISH. 255 properly cleaned, wipe dry with a cloth, and either rub it with vin- egar or dredge it with flour, then dip it into olive oil, or egg and bread-crumbs ; or roll it well in chopped herbs ; though many simply rul3 it over with butter. Always use a double broiler, if possible, and before putting the fish into it, heat hot, and rub over with butter to prevent the fish sticking. The size or thickness of the fish will have to be the guide in broiling ; if the fish is small it will re- quire a clear, hot fire ; if large the fire must be moderate, otherwise the outside ooawe Brouer of the fish will be burned before the inside is cooked. Some brown the fish handsomely over the coals and then put it in the oven to finish cooking; when the fish is very thick, or broiled with a stuffing, as mackerel sometimes is, this is a good plan. But when fish are split they are very easily broiled over the fire. If the fish is taken from the broiler to be put into the oven it should be slipped on to a tin sheet that it may slide easily into the platter when served, for nothing so mars a dish of fish as to have it come to the table broken. In broiling, the inside should be exposed to the fire first, and then the skin. Great care must be taken that the skin does not burn. To turn the fish when broiling on a gridiron, separate carefully with a knife any part of it that sticks to the iron, then, holding a platter over the fish with one hand, turn the gridiron over with the other, leaving the fish on the platter, from which it can be easily turned back to the gridiron to finish cooking. Mackerel will broil in from twelve to twenty min- utes, young cod (also called scrod) in from twenty to thirty min- utes, ' blue-fish in from twenty to thirty minutes, salmon in from twelve to twenty minutes, and white-fish, bass, mul- let, etc., in about eighteen minutes. As soon as the fish is done, sprinkle with pepper and salt, spread butter all over it with a knife and set in oven a moment that the butter may soak into the fish. Some put over the fish a few drops lemon juice and a little chopped parsley before spreading with butter, and this is especially nice for shad, Avhich is much more delicious broiled than cooked in any other way. Soaking fish in a marinade before broiling is considered a great improvement, and the French soak it in olive oil made savory with spices. When broiling the more delicate kinds of fish the gridiron or broiler may be strewed with sprigs of fresh aromatic herbs, oiling the fish well before putting it to broil, and cooking very slowly. Smoked salmon should be merely heated through. When wanted to broil quickh' , fish may be first parboiled, but the skin will doubtless be more or less broken and its appearance thus marred. Broiled fish may be either masked with a sauce — tartare, tomato, curry or any sharp sauce — or served upon a puree of sorrel, tomatoes, or beans, or upon an oil or caper sauce. When possible, 256 FISH. garnish with parsley, celery or lettuce. The salmon, trout, perch, pickerel, shad, mackerel, black-fish, blue-fish, haddock, white and flat-fish, are all very excellent broiled, as are also cutlets of any kind of fish, but the Spanish mackerel, from the Gulf, and pompano are especially prized for cooking in this manner. The California salmon is the most highly esteemed of its kind f )r many uses, and the cutlets are very nice broiled. Collared FisJi. — A side of salmon, a fine markerel or eel, or a piece of sturgeon large enough for a handsome roll -will make a good collar. Split the fish, remove the head, tail and fins and bone care- fullv, but do not skin it (^vhen an eel is used it must of course be skinned), wipe dry, rub well on both sides with spices, salt and very finely shred herbs'^, roll as tightly as possible, tie securely with broad tape and put a cloth round it; place it in boiling hot vinegar and water — equal parts of each — seasoned with bruised bay leaves, salt and a bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer very slowly until the fish is done. A larger sized collar of sturgeon or salmon requires two hours' simmering to cook it well ; eel or mackerel will be done in fifteen or twenty minutes. Take it up. reduce the liquor by boiling, strain, and when cold pour over the fish and set away until wanted. The cloth need not be removed until just before the fish is served. If to be served hot, the fish may be tied only with tape and baked ; garnish with sprigs of fresh fennel or grated horseradish. Serve whole or sliced. When boiled, the bones, head, etc., may be tied in a muslin bag and boiled in the liquor with the fish to give it a richer flavor. Minced oysters, anchovies or lobster, mixed with raw yolk of eg^, niay be spread inside salmon or sturgeon before rolling with the spices. If kept long the liquor of the fish must be drained off and boiled up from time to time, and when cold poured again over the fish. Crimped Fish. — The fish must be as fresh as possible ; cut into nice shaped slices about two inches thick, and. put into a saucepan of salted water that has been brought to a boil, checking with a lit- tle cold water when the fish is put in; take out the fish in a few minutes, carefully place on a cloth to drain, dredge with flour or wash over with yolk of egg and broil slowly over a clear fire. Serve with anchovy, oyster, or caper sauce in the dish. Salmon, cod, shad, rock-fish, bass and halibut are all excellent crimped. Curried Fish. — Salmon, cod, eels, flounders and flat-fish gener- ally, may be made into curries, and must first 1)e carefully boned, then fried and a boiling gravy seasoned with curry powder poured over them ; when the whole boils remove from fire and add some bits of butter and beaten yolk of egg. A little chopped onion fried in butter is often used in curries, and oysters are always a nice ad- dition. The French method of currying fish is to first make some FISH. 257 butter hot in a pan and add the curry powder ; the fish is then put in (either raw or cold), and when done add gravy mixed with the well-beaten yolk of an egg ; when this sauce becomes smooth and thick serve all together with a rim of tomatoes. Eels may be cut into lengths and are nicer to first slowly simmer in gravy. Some simmer the curry powder slowly in the gravy two hours on the day before using, to take off the rawness of the turmeric. The curry it- self should be made only a short time before it is wanted for the table or the flavor will be impaired, Cucumber and melon are often introduced in this dish, as well as curds, cream, rice, garlic, etc. Deviled Fish. — Take any kind of small fish, or cutlets of fish (raw, or previously cooked and grown cold), soak them half an hour in either soy. Chili vinegar, catsup, or any stock sauce ; drain jmd broil them, and serve with a horseradish, chutney, piquant, or mustard sauce. The fish may be rolled in curry powder, if preferred. Dried Fish. — Fish may be simply salted well and dried in the air, afterwards smoking them if liked, or rubbed over with pepper and salt and cured by hanging in a dry place indoors, which is generally thought the better way. Codfish is most frequently plain- ly salted, without being spiced or smoked. Hake is merely dried by exposure to the air, without having been previously salted. Small fish only require to remain twenty-four hours in a suflScient quantity of salt. Most others should be split open, and the backbone re- moved ; sprinkle with salt, and hang up to drain for a day and a night then rub with a little salt, moist sugar (and pepper or spices, if liked), and at the end of twenty-four hours put them to dry, and afterwards slowly smoke them. A great deal depends upon the pains bestowed upon it to cure fish at home successfully. Beside those above mentioned, mackerel, haddock, herrings, salmon, pike and trout will be found very nice thus cured. Fricasseed Fish. — The fish to be fricasseed should be first tossed (lightly fried) in oil or dripping until about half done, then slowly stewed in gravy rendered -savory with spices, shred onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, etc., flavored with vinegar or lemon juice. When the fish is sufficiently dressed, thicken the sauce with yolk of egg, and serve all together in a dish decorated with sliced lemon or orange. Less flavoring is needed for a fricassee than for a stew on account of the fish having gained greater savoriness through being partially fried. Large fish should always be boned and, if neces- sary, skinned, then fricasseed in small slices or rolls. Minced an- chovies, as well as oysters, are an admirable addition. A fricassee should be sent to the table as hot as possible ; when the fish is sufficiently dressed it should be served, instead of allowing it to sodden in the saucepan. Flat-fish, perch, cod-sounds, eels, salmon, cat-fish, and most kinds of river and pond fish are thus fricasseed. 258 FISH. For a Fricassee of Cod, wa^^h and cut two pounds of fresh codfish in two-inch squares, removing skin and bones ; put over the fire in sufiicient cold water to cover it an inch, wilh one teaspoon salt, and let it slowly approach the boiling point; then tike it from the water with a skimmer, lay it on a Avarm dish, cover it with a towel wet in warm water, and place it where it will keep warm without drying. Strain the water in wich the fish was boiled and use one pint of it together with one tal)lespoon each butter and Hour to make a white sauce, first melting together the butter and flour, and then gradually Btirring in the water ; season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, l>ut the fish into it and heat until the flakes begin to separate; then remove the saucepan from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk of one egg and a tal)les2Doon vinegar ; if parsley is obtainable, add one tablespoon chopped fine ; serve as soon as done. Toast or two inch slices of fried bread may accompany the dish. Three tal)lespoons of salad oil may be added to tlie sauee, a few drops at a time, with the vinegar, if desired. Halibut and bass are excellent when cooked in this way. Fried Fish. — The smaller kinds of fish, as brook trout, perch, sun-fish, and smelts, usually called pan-llsh, and the small bass and pickerel, are best for frying, either by "tossing" or eauteing in a small quantity of fat or oil in a ])an (commonly called frying), or by immersing in hot fat or oil like doughnuts, the latter being generally considered the better method. Hot lard, beef drippings, olive oil, or American cooking oil may all be used for frying fish, though many f)refer the oils, chiefly because of the difliculty of procuring pure ard or fat, and as the oil can be clarified and used over and over again it is quite as economical as lard or dripping. The secret of frying to perfection l)y immersing is to have the lard or oil so deep that it entirely covers the fish and so hot as instantly to form a crust over the entire surface. If the fisli is large and further cook- ing is necessary, the heat must be reduced. Test the fat (as directed in Fritters) Ixfore putting in the fish, for if it is not hot enough the fish will al)Sorb it and thus become greasy and unwholesome. The fish-kettle heretofore illustrated may be used for frying fish, or one may be ordered of any tinner. Have an oval pan made of tin and an oval basket or plate fitting into it, made with a heavy wire edge and fine wires running across half an inch apart ; or have it made of coarse wire cloth bound with tin, and at each end there must 1)6 a long wire loop for a handle. A fish fried in this is very easily taken up ; lift the frame from the kettle, let it stand for a moment across the kettle that the lard may drip* loosen from the frame with a knife and slide it ofi* on the hot platter. If a fish-kettle cannot be had a wire basket in which the fish is placed and lowered into the fat is a great convenience. Fish for frying should have the heads cut off, be thoroughly cleaned and wiped perfectly dry, then rub over with FISH. 259 flour, or meal, or a mixture of half each, or dip once or twice into beaten egg and bread-crumbs, or a batter. When browned on one side, turn, and when done drain quite dry, sprinkle with salt and 8end to table on a napkin folded in a dish nicely garnished, serving a sauce apart. Finely shred herbs may be si^rinkled over some kinds of fish, as eels and mackerel, before frying, but flat-fish gen- erally should be done with bread-crumbs and egg and sent to table a clear, golden yellow. Chopped onions are fried and served with fresh herrings. If a sufficient quantity of fat is used a good thick fish Avill not require more than ten minutes' fryuig, and smelts and other such small fish are done in five minutes or less. Smelts, gudgeons and oysters are often fried to use as a garnish with other fish. The larger fish may be cut into cutlets or steaks, rolled in beg-ten egg and cracker or bread-crumbs and fried in this manner. Some dip fish in milk before breading them, then into the crumbs, then into beaten egg and again in the crumbs, while others roll them first in the crumbs, and finish same. Prepare them in this manner for sauteing or frying in a pan, and use a thick-bottomed pan, with lard or oil enough to keep them from scorching or sticking to the bottom of pan. Never use butter as it takes out the sweetness and gives a bad color. If the fish is large remove the backbone and cut crosswise into five or six pieces. Put into the pan skin side uppermost and fry slowly ; when brown on one side turn over care- fully and brown the other. When done (in about an hour) remove to hot platter and servo at once. The roe and backbone, when pre- viously removed, may be cut up and fried with the other pieces. Salt pork is sometimes put into the pan with the fish, or fried first, and yields sufficient fat for frying the fish, and the slices of j)ork may be served as a garnish for the fish. Fish is perhaps more often fried or sauted thus in a pan than by immersing in hot fat, but the latter is much the nicer method, as the fish is cooked more evenly and its shape is better preserved, though some think them more savory when sauted. Eels for frying should be skewered to form a circle. Large fish may be first slightly fried and afterwards stewed in a gravy or marinade. All the best known varieties of fish are excellent fried. Serve with tomato or any highly flavored sauce or slices of lemon. PicJded Fish. — Fish of a rich oily nature is principally used for pickling, as the dry-fleshed kinds do not answer so well. Smelts; well rubbed with salt and powdeied spice, may be packed in ajar, and boiling hot vinegar poured over them. The ordinary method practised in pickling salmon, shad, herrings, mackerel, etc., is to boil them nicely in a small quantity of waited water, to which some add onions ; take them up, properly spice enough vinegar, add to it the liquor (strained) in which the fish were boiled, and some bruised bay leaves, which are an indispensable addition, give it a boil up, 260 FISH. and when this and the fish are cold pour it over the latter. If the fish are intended to be kept for any length of time, vinegar and spices alone may be used. In Europe, fish of any kind is tossed in oil, and when cold, covered with strong vinegar, highly spiced; sometimes this method is reversed by boiling the fish in vinegar, and when drained and cold adding spices and pouring olive oil upon it ; red and green pepper should be added to the fish, as they give flavor to the pickle. Mackerel may be split open and boned, or cut into small slices ; salmon and shad should be pickled in handsome- sized pieces. Scraped horseradish, oil, and pounded loaf sugar are to be served with pickled fish. For an Italian pickle, slice any kind of fish ; dip it in yolk of egg, fry it — or rather boil it — in oil ; when cold, rub it over'with pounded spices ; put it into jars and pour over it cold vinegar seasoned with shallot, garlic and saflron. This pickle keeps good a year at least. Potted Fish. — Fish may be potted whole, in slices, or pounded to a paste. Smelts may be done whole. Cut off" the heads, tails and fins of trout for potting, wipe, but not Avash, split open and bone them. Remove only the heads from shad, herring, and mackerel, and when very large' cut each fish into three or four pieces. Salmon may be potted in any sized slices. Having prepared the fish, season well with salt, pepper, powdered bay leaves, and a little nutmeg, mace and cloves ; then pack it in pots with or without butter, and bake as long as the size requires ; when done drain otf the grease or gravy and when the fish is cold pound in a mortar to a paste and pour clarified butter over, or the butter n)ay be poured on without pounding the fish ; oil or vinegar may be added to the fish before it IS baked^ afterwards j)oure(l o|)" and fresh used to put over the fish for keeping it. After putting in the pots cover closely to exclude the air, or the butter will become rancid and the fish spoil. Some prefer to pack tlie fish and seasoning in layers, and for this the fol- lowing will be found an excellent recipe : For five pounds fish take three ounces salt, two each of ground black pepper and cinnamon, one of allspice, and a half ounce cloves ; cut fish in slices, or some pack Avhole, and place in the jar in which it is to be cooked, first a layer offish, then the spices, 'salt, and bits of butter sprinkled on, repeating till done. Fill the jar with equal parts vinegar and water, cover closely with a cloth well floured, or a piece of dough, on top •so that no steam can escape, and bake six hours. Let it remain in jar until cold, cut in slices, and serve for tea. Fish so potted will keep a long time, if always immersed in the liquor and kept closely covered ; and the very bones become eatable. It affords a conven- ient resource in an emergency, for a few pieces of the fish can be taken from the pot, laid on a small dish, a little of the liquor poured over them, and served garnished with sprigs of parsley. What is left can be returned to the pot. A nice spice to be used in potting FISH. 261 meats is composed of the following ingredients thoroughly mixed : One ounce each ground cloves, pulverized mace, Jamaica pepper, and grated lemon-rind, one-fourth ounce cayenne, one grated nutmeg. Besides the fish already mentioned, perch, pike and eels are excellent potted. Salmon should be skinned for potting and is first baked in slices in a pan with butter, seasoned with mace, cloves, whole peppers and bay leaves, and when done drained from the gravy and potted with clarified butter over the top. Salted Fish. — Fish intended for salting should never be washed or wet. The larger kinds of fish should be split open, and the heads and intestines of the others removed, first properly scraping them ; then pack in a pickle-tub, with finely-powdered salt between each layer ; the tub containing them must be kept full, and the fish well covered on the top with salt. The proportion of salt should be one- sixth the weight of the fish. If intended for drying, the fish should remain in the salt from twenty-four hours to eight days, according to size. Herrings are only laid in salt and a little saltpetre for twelve hours, and then smoked for a day and a night. The French way is to split open mackerel, haddock, etc., but only to draw and divest herrings of their heads. They are then placed in a pan, with a small quantity of water, and a handful or two of salt ; at the end of a few hours they are drained and wiped dry, and salted with a mixture of four parts each of salt and bay salt, and one part each of saltpetre and loaf-sugar in powder ; keep them well-covered for three months before using them. Large cod may be opened and laid upon a stone or brick floor and occasionally sprinkled with fresh salt un- til Rufiiciently cured ; then dry by exposure to a current of air. Shad and bass are also salted, and whenever too great a quantity of any kind of fresh fish is on hand it may be preserved by salting. An easy way to keep fish a short time is to put it in salted water or brine that has served for beef or bacon, and when wanted wipe dry, pepper and devil it, or cook in any manner, when it will be greatly relished. The following is a good recipe for Salted Herring: Mix half peck each fine and rock salt; take one hundred and seventy- five herring, put them loosely in layers with salt betAveen, and after four days, drain well and repack in close layers on their backs, cover- ing each layer with a mixture of half peck each fine and rock salt, quarter pound brown sugar, three quarters ounce saltpetre. Leave several months till salt takes effect. These are in season in Febru- ary, March and April. Scalloped Fish. — Boil a cup oyster liquor, or milk, thicken with a little flour or corn-starch, add two tablespoons butter, a little chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste and let cool ; put a handful fine bread-crumbs on bottom of buttered baking dish and cover with above sauce ; then put in a layer of cold boiled cod or other fish minced fine ; have three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, 262 FISH. and put a layer of the egg next, then more sauce, and so on, leav- ing out bread-crumbs until dish is full, when put a thick layer of crumbs over the top, plentifully strewn with butter. Cover and bake until hot through, then remove cover and brown. Or put the remains of any cold fish, carefully picked from the bones, into a stewpan with a half pint cream, half tablespoon anchovy sauce, half teaspoon each made mustard and walnut catsup, and pepper and salt to taste. Set over fire to heat hot, stirring occasionally, but do not let boil ; put into a deep dish or scallop shells with plenty of bread-crumbs, place bits of butter on top and brown with the salamander. The anchovy sauce, walnut catsup or mustard may be omitted, if not liked, and milk with an egg and a little fiour may be used instead of the cream. In l)reparing cold fish dishes a little more butter is always needed than for fresh fish. For a nice fish scallop with mashed potatoes, take any cooked fish, boned, and mix with it a white, egg, or drawn butter sauce seasoned to taste ; put a layer finely mashed potato in bottom of porcelain baking dish, put in the fish and cover with another layer of potatoes. Smooth the top over neatly and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Or form by heaping the fish high in the center of first layer of potatoes and cover this pyramid with the mashed potatoes and bake. Another very simple way of scalloping fish is to pvit thin slices of salmon, pike or turbot in scallop shells or small tins with bits of butter on top and bake until browned. Squeeze lemon juice over and serve. Cold fish is nice warmed over in this way. Steamed Fish. — After cleaning a fish, as for boiling or not, in either case, place tail of fish in its mouth and secure it, lay on a plate, pour over it a half pint vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt ; let stand an hour in refrigerator, pour off" vinegar, and put in a steamer over boiling water ; steam twenty minutes, or longer if the fish is very large (when done the meat easily parts from the bone) ; drain well, and serve on a napkin garnished with curled parsley. Serve drawn butter in a boat. Or when nearly done, place in oven for a few minutes, baste, brown, and finish as baked fish. Fish intended for baking are very nice to be first steamed about an hour, and steaming is a much better method of cooking than boiling. Mack- erel merely steamed, with no sauce, eaten with vinegar, or oil and vinegar, is delicious. Stewed Fish. — Almost any kind of fish are excellent stewed, except those of a coarse-fleshed nature, like mackerel or smelts ; eels, trout, carp, and fresh-water fish generally, are capital in a stew. A nice way of stewing is to put the fish in beef or any other gravy that is rich and well-seasoned, and cook it very gently from fifteen minutes to an hour, according to size ; add some vinegar or cider, thicken the liquor with yolk of egg, cream, or butter rubbed in flour, FISH. 263 and serve the fish and sauce together. The large kinds, like salmon, sturgeon, cod, etc., must be cut in slices ; trout and other medium sized fish may be stewed whole and served with a sauce over them. Silver eels should be divided into short lengths. Some cooks flour the fish itself before putting it into the gravy, but the sauce is rarely, by this means, so smoothly thickened as it should be. A few oys- ters may be advantageously added to most stews, put in with the egg or flour ; essence of anchovy, catsup, herbs, or mushrooms may also be employed to increase the flavor, for stews should never taste insii^id, but quite relishing and savory, and for this reason spices, lemon, pickle, chutney, tomatoes, savory herbs, caviare, or indeed any kind of flavoring in good taste, is admissible. Another good recipe for a stew is the following : Take six pounds an}^ kind of fish, large or small, three pints water, quarter pound pork, or half cup butter, two large onions, three tablespoons flour, salt and pepper to taste. Cut heads from fish and remove all bones ; put heads and bones on to boil in the three pints water and cook gently half an hour ; cut the pork in slices and fry brown ; slice the onions and fry in the pork fat ; stir the dry flour into the onion and fat and cook three minutes, stirring all the time. Pour over this the water in which the bones have been cooking, and simmer ten minutes. Have the fish cut in pieces about three inches square, season well with salt and pepper, and place in the stew-pan ; season the sauce with salt and pepper, and strain on the fish, cover tight, and sim- mer twenty minutes. A bouquet of sweet herbs simmered with the bones is an improvement. Dish on a large platter and garnish with potato balls and parsley. The potato balls are cut from the raw potatoes with a vegetable scoop, and boiled ten minutes in salted water. Put them in little heaps around the dish. For a plainer stew, cut a fish across in slices an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle with salt ; boil two sliced onions until done, pour off water, season with pepper, add two cups hot water and a little parsley to the onions, and in this simmer the fish until thoroughly done. Serve hot. A little lemon juice or vinegar may be added. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemons. A nice French Stew is made as follows : Clean and wipe dry any kind of fish and cut into slices two inches in thickness ; put a cup of oil or butter into an earthen baking dish ; add chopped pars- ley, fennel, shallot, and a clove of garlic and bring to a boil ; rub the fish in plenty of spices pounded together with some saffron, and put it into the oil ; fry it for a few moments ; add a half pint water, and stew slowly till done. Beat together yolks of two eggs with juice of a lemon and some coarse red pepper ; pour these into the dish, and when the sauce is set, serve all together in a dish garnished with pickled peppers. Fish Balls. — Mix a quart mashed potatoes with a cup of bits of butter, two teaspoons made mustard and a half teaspoon salt ; 264 FISH stir in two eggs beaten with a tablespoon or two of cream or milk, and add a pint finely shredded and chopped cold salt fish, stirring in a little at a time until it is thoroughly mixed Take a heaping tablespoon at a time and roll on a floured board, making with the hands into as perfect balls as possible until all rn^^^^^^^^^r^g^^,^^^ up. Have the skillet of fat hot and drop in a few^ ' ^^ balls at a time ; turn to brown nicely, take out with skimmer and i)ut on sieve or colander in oven to drain and keep hot until all are ready to serve. Some prefer to re- verse the proportions given above, using twice as much fish as potato. Freshly baked and mashed potato is best, but cold may be used, if carefully re-heated, and any remains of cold fish Avill do. To make DroppQcl Fish JSalls^ take a pint raw fish, a quart i:)ared potatoes, (under medium size), two eggs, butter the size of an egg, and a lit- tle pepper. Pick the fish very fine, and measure lightly ; put pota- toes into the boiler, and fish on top, cover with boiling water, and boil half an hour. Drain off water, and mash fish and potatoes to- gether until fine and light; then add butter and pepper, and the well-beaten egg. Have a deep kettle of hot fat ; dip a tablespoon in it, and take up a spoonful of the mixture, being careful to get it into as good sha])e as possible. Drop into the boiling fat and cook until brown, which should be in two minutes. Be careful not to crowd the balls, better not let them touch, and be sure the fat is hot enough. The spoon should be dipped in the fat every time a spoonful of the mixture is taken. These balls are delicious. A pretty way of serv- ing fish balls is to line the dish with clean, white paper, and edge this with a frill of colored tissue paper — green or pink, — making a very ornamental dish. Fish Cake. — Take the boned meat of any fish, beat in a mortar or merel}' mince it fine, add a chopped onion, some chopped herbs, nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little catsup, or fish sauce, such as essence of anchovies, or shrimps, and mix it with either mashed po- tatoes, bread-crumbs soaked in milk, chop])ed hard-boiled eggs, or pulped tomatoes, in equal parts, put all into a buttered dish, pour some beaten eggs ujion the top, and bake till nicely browned. Or put the boned fish, with the head and fins, into a stewpan with a pint water ; add pepper and salt, an onion and bunch of herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about two hours ; chop the fish fine, and mix it well with eijual quantities bread-crumbs and cold potatoes, adding half teaspoon parsley and seasoning ; make the whole into a cake with the white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with l)read- cruml)s, and fry a light broAvn ; strain the gravy, pour it over, and stew gently for fifteen minutes, stirring it carefully once or twice. Serve hot, garnished with slices of lemon and parsley. To make White Fish Cakes, pound the flesh of some cold fish, Beason it with white pepper, add a little lemon-juice, and mix all nsH. 265 with enough white of egg to make it form a thick batter, fry it in small cakes, and serve garnished with crisp green parsley. If the yolks instead of the whites of eggs be used, and a little curry pow- der added, the result will be nice Yelloio Fish Cakes; serve in a damask napkin with grated lemon-peel over them. Fish Chowder. — The best fish for chowder are haddock and striped bass, though cod, swordfish and all kinds of whitefish are excellent, and any fresh fish may be used. For a good chowder prepare the ingredients by first slicing a quarter pound pickled pork, and fry it in a pot ; then cut five pounds fresh codfish or had- dock in slices an inch thick and free from skin and bone ; peel and cut two onions in thin slices, and put them to fry with the pork as soon as there is enough fat to keep them from burning ; peel and slice four more onions and keep them to use later ; peel and slice ten potatoes in pieces a quarter of an inch thick; (boiled potatoes are sometimes used) ; have ready a pound of sea-biscuit, or Boston crackers. As soon as the pork and onions are brown take them from the i)ot with fat in which they were fried, leaving about four tablespoons of the fat in the bottom of the pot ; put into the pot a layer of fish, next a layer of potatoes, then a layer of the fried and raw onions, and season at this layer with a quarter saltspoon ground pepper, and a level teaspoon salt. Repeat the layers of fish, potatoes and onions until one-half the ingredients have been used ; then add one-half the pork and biscuit or crackers, split, pour- ing half the drippings from the pork on the crackers. Put the re- mainder of the fish, potatoes and onions in the pot in layers, add pepper and salt as before, and place on the top the rest of the crack- ers, pork and drippings. Pour over all these ingredients cold water enough to reach three inches above the top layer, and place the pot over the fire where the chowder will boil gently for an hour, or until the whole is thoroughly cooked ; if it should burn it would be spoiled. At the end of an hour add a half ])int cream, and serve in a tureen and soup-plates ; eat with dry sea-biscuits, or Boston crack- ers. Another way of preparing the fish, if large, is to remove the backbone and skin, cut in pieces about three inches square and roll them in flour ; put the skin, bones and head into two quarts water and boil half an hour, meantime preparing and placing other in- gredients, with the fish, in the kettle as above ; pour over the top the water in which the skin and bones have been boiled and at the end of half an hour, or when the chowder is done, add a quart milk or a cup cream and serve as above. Some prepare the fish by cut- ting into pieces an inch thick and two inches square, and some boil the pork instead of frying, while others use it in raw slices, in both cases putting a layer of the pork in bottom of kettle and alternating with the layers of crackers, fish and potatoes. When the pork is •fried some prefer to chop it fine and use it in layers, alternating 266 FTSH. with the other ingredients. Both crackers and potatoes may be used, as above, or one or the other may be omitted. Some simply soak crackers in water or milk, or they may be split open and but- tered, then "crisped" in the oven if liked, scalded with sufficient hot milk and put in just before taking up. Onions may be put in raw, if chopped. Layers of potatoes in thin sHces are sometimes added, and a sprinkling of parsley is liked by many. Instead of disliing up all together, the fish may be skimmed out into the tureen and kept hot while the gravy is thickened with cracker dust or flour; boil up once, add chopped parsley, catsup and lemon-juice to taste, and pour over the fish. Fish Croquettes. — Stir together in saucepan over the fire a tablespoon each flour and butter, and add either water or milk, making a thick sauce ; let boil, season with salt and pepper and put in pint cold flaked fish and scald ; remove from fire and stir into it the yolks of two or three eggs. Rub a deep plate with salad oil, pour the mixture in and let get thoroughly cold. Then make up into cork-shaped rolls. Wet the hands to prevent sticking. Roll in sifted bread crumbs, dip in beaten egg, then again in bread- crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, until a delicate brown. Take out with skimmer, and lay on brown paper an instant to absorb fat. A teaspoon onion chopped fine and fried in the but- ter before the sauce is made, imparts a nice flavor to the croquettes. A perfect croquette is semi-liquid in center. Melted butter is not so go.od as oil for greasing the dish,, as it will not prevent sticking. The cracker dust should be rolled and sifted, as the finer it is the more easily the croquettes are ])reparod, and the nicer they will fry. Another way is to remove the bones and chop fine any cold fish — boiled, baked or fried — and mix witli it one-third as much mashed potato rubbed to a cream with a little melted butter; add a little white sauce made of butter melted in milk, and thickened with corn starch and a l)eatcn egg ; season with cho])ped parsley, salt, pepper and anchovy sauce or walnut catsup. Mix, make into balls and roll in beaten egg and cracker dust and fry as above. Send to tal)le hot with sliced lemon round them. An improvement on the old fish balls. Or, put a piece of butter in a saucepan, dredge in some flour, and stir over the fire some minced cold fish, chopped mushrooms, bread-crumbs, herbs and shallot, pepper and salt; cook until thick and when cold form into balls. Egg and bread-crumb them twice, fry a nice brown in hot fat, arrange in pyramid form on a plate and garnish with parsley. Fish Dressing. — Two cups bread or cracker crumbs, one of mashed potatoes, one well-beaten egg, two tablespoons butter, tea- spoon sage and savory, or a little thyme, and one dozen chopped clams or oysters ; moisten with warm rich new milk, salt and pepper to taste. This dressing is also good for duck or game with a finely FISH. 267 chopped onion added. Or, for a plainer dressing, taice one pint bread-crumbs, two tablespoons melted butter, one raw egg, pepper, salt and one tablespoon celery seed. Fish Fritters. — Put two tablespoons flour in a bowl with half galtspoon salt, and stir in gradually a gill tepid water and tablespoon salad oil (melted butter or fat will do), and the well-frothed whites of two eggs. The batter is the better for standing before used, and if made without the eggs it must stand at least four hours. If the fish are small skin them, wipe dry with a cloth and put the tail in the mouth; roll well in flour — dusting is not sufficient — dip them into the batter and fry in hot fat. If the fish are large, bone and cut into neat slices and dry, flour and fry them as small fish. To make them extra nice rub the fish first with powdered spices or herbs, then roll in flour and dip in batter. Or fritters may be made of any cold fish, which must be minced very fine, or, better, pounded in a mortar; add any seasoning liked, spices, herbs, onions, etc., and either stir the fish in the batter and drop by spoonfuls into the fat, or carefully place little heaps of it on spoonfuls of the batter and put into the hot fat with the fish uppermost. Fish Pies. — Salmon, eels, cod, mackerel, trout, herrings, floun- ders, salt fish, and in short almost any kind of fish are good in pies. Large fish must of course be used in slices, small fish must have heads, tails and fins removed, bone them also if possible, and flat fish should be skinned. Line a shallow baking pan or a pie tin with a nice paste, or rich baking powder crust, leaving a good rim, and put the fish in, covered with a rich, highl3'-seasoned white sauce, or with bits of butter plentifully strewn over, and season with salt, pepper, herbs and spices to taste ; when the white sauce is not used add cream and fine bread-crumbs or cracker dust — and hard-boiled eggs, chopped, if liked — to a pie made of cold fish, and many like them in a pie made of any fresh fish. Alternate layers of oysters seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, with the bread-crumbs and fish, make a very nice Fish Oyster Pie., but should be put in dish without the under crust. Cover with bread-crumbs, which must be browned, or with a good crust, pinching the edges well together and bake. Some prefer to cut pie paste in strips and lay in cross-bars over the top with a roll of the paste round the edge. A pie of ordinary size will bake in a moderate oven in about an hour. If of cold cooked fish much less time will be required. If the fish is first lightly fried in butter the flavor of the pie will be greatly improved. Eels should be previously stewed. Salt fish must first be soaked, boiled, boned, minced, and mixed with plenty of fresh butter ; serve with mustard or horseradish sauce. Boiled Fish Puddiiigs are made in much the same way, using a deep baking dish or bowl ; always cover with the top crust, and tie the dish in a cloth, then place in a kettle of hot water. The 268 FISH. time required for boiling will depend upon the size of the pudding. Bruised bay leaves, chopped parsley, onion, pepper, bottled sauce, etc., are used for flavoring. Small trout and perch, with the addition of a few button mushrooms, are exceedingly good in puddings, and the fish mentioned for pies are excellent for this dish. Fish Rissoles. — Cut thin slices of any fish, or finely chop it ; sprinkle with catsup, cayenne pepper, shred lemon-peel,or any other savory addition preferred. Enclose portions of the fish between very thin paste, fasten the edges together, and fry the rissoles, like dough- nuts, till nicely browned ; they may be of any shape — rounds, stars, crescents, or triangles. Serve hot, decorated with a bunch of crisp parsley. Or line patty pans with a nice paste, put in the fish moistened with a little cream and bake in oven, for Fish Patties. Fish Salad. — Rub yolks £)f three eggs to smooth paste with a little salad oil ; add one teaspoon each salt and pepper, one table- spoon each made mustard and sugar, and lastly six tablespoons vinegar. Beat the mixture until light and just before pouring over the fish stir in lightly the frothed white of an egg. Put fish in dish with six tablespoons vinegar and stir half the dressing in with it ; spread remainder over the top and lay blanched lettuce leaves around the edges to be eaten with it, or garnish with a row of sliced toma- toes. Or arrange in a dish cold fish of any kind and pour over it a mayonnaise made by beating gradually together raw yolks of eggs, lemon-juice, and Italian olive-oil; season to taste, and, if preferred, color it green liy emplcying spinach-juice or bruised herbs. Propor- tion according to quantity of fish. Decorate the dish with lumps of clear fish jelly, capers, gherkins, etc. Or pour over the fish a sauce made as follows : Chop together chervil, tarragon, cress and mus- tard leaves ; add pepper and salt, and mix together with enough olive-oil and vinegar to make it of the proper consistency ; garnish the dish with slices of lemon and cucumber, placed alternately, sprinkled with cayenne pepper and minced anchovy. A more simple salad is made by melting some fresh butter in a stewpan and adding lemon-juice, pepper, chopped shallot and parsley, and olive oil; pour over the lish, strew crushed bay salt and grated lemon-rind on top before sending to table, and decorate with pickles. For a nice Salmon Salad, cut cold boiled salmon into slices or pieces two inches long, and marinade by letting stand two or three hours in vinegar well seasoned with pepper, salt, a little salad oil and chopped onion and parsley. Arrange lettuce leaves in bottom of salad dish and cover with Italian dressing, (see Salads), placing the salmon, bordering with a row of hard-boiled eggs in slices, in a ring on this, and fill in center with mayonnaise sauce. Sprinkle capers over all. Pike, blue-fish, flounders, etc., may be used in salads in same manner. The fish may be either fried or boiled, or FISH. 269 remnants of cold used. Slices may be more neatly shaped before cooking, if cold fish is not used. Fish Sandwiches. — Butter thin slices of bread on both sides, lay thin pieces of anchovy, tunny fish, sardine, smoked salmon, bloater, or other cured fish on half; sprinkle some seasoning upon the tops, and place the other slices of bread upon them ; lay the sand- wiches in a dish, and set them in a quick oven till the bread is nicely browned. The soft roe of a shad or herring, mashed and spread between bread-and-butter, and baked, is a very savory relish. Pressed cavaire used in the same way is particularly good. Chopped hard-boiled eggs may be mixed with the fish and a little mayonnaise or any sauce preferred is a relished addition. Fish Canapes may also be classed with sandwiches and are prepared thus : Cut some rather thick slices of bread ; cut out a round from the center of each, fry them in olive-oil or butter and place upon them minced anchovy, tunny fish, cured salmon, sardine, or fresh shell-fish of any kind ; add seasoning, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg chopped fine, to- gether with any chopped pickles or herbs liked. Fish SouMe. — Pare eight good-sized potatoes and boil thirty minutes, drain the water from them, and mash very fine ; then mix thoroughly with a pint finely chopped, cooked salt fish. Add two tablespoons butter, salt and pepper, and three-fourths cup hot milk or cream ; stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs, and heap this in the dish in which it is to be served. Place in the oven for ten minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs to stifi" froth, and add a quar- ter teaspoon salt ; then add yolks. Spread this over the dish of fish ; return to the oven to brown, and serve. Fish Soups. — Fish soups may be made as rich or as thin as liked, but about a pound of fish to a pint of water, Avith the requisite seasoning, will make a very good soup. When stock is required to make anything richer, it should be compounded wholly of fish rather than from meat. The liquor in which a salmon has been boiled makes a capital foundation for a fish soup. With the excep- tion of the richer kinds, such as herrings, mackerel, or sprats, almost any fish is suitable for soup. The thickenings used for fish soupa are potato flour, fried bread-crumbs, cream, butter rolled in flour, ground rice, cod roe, lobster spawn, or caviare, beaten to a paste; yolk of egg, either raw or hard-boiled, and pounded smooth, together with an admixture of olive oil ; mashed turnip, crushed macaroni, or Italian paste, etc. Eels for soup should be simmered until the flesh leaves the bones, then strain, and add thickening and season- ings. The following are all nice adjuncts to fish soup : Small bits fried bread or toast, hard-boiled eggs in quarters, forcemeat balls, picked shrimps, prawn, or crayfish; French roll, fried brown; slips of pickled anchovies, little onions, first lightly fried in butter, sliced 270 FISH. cucumber, mushrooms, or quartered tomatoes. To make Brown Fish Soup, take any kind of fish, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, and brown in olive-oil or butter in saucepan ; cover with hot water, sea- son with salt and pepper, and boil slowly for about fifteen minutes. See that there is plenty of water. One pound will make a quart of soup. A clove of garlic or any flavoring liked may be added. Fish Straws. — With the exception of mackerel the fish should be skinned, and good fillets (narrow strips) taken lengthwise free from bone ; soak for two hours in lemon-juice seasoned with chopped onions, parsley and pej^per ; take out, wipe dry, roll in flour, and fry in dripping or oil until a fine brown ; drain from fat, pile in a dish, and serve a tomato sauce round them. Haddock, mackerel, or any kind of flat fish are used for these straws. Fish Toast. — Bone any preserved fish, such as smoked salmon, herring, etc., season with cayenne pepper, made mustard (if liked) and salt ; when it is a smooth paste add an equal quantity of fresh butter, incorporate both well together, and spread upon pieces of hot toast ; put these for a few moments into an oven, and send to table when well heated. Fish Turhans. — Bone and skin a fish, as directed in preface, and after cutting the entire fish into fillets or slices, roll each one up and fasten with a broom straw. These little rolls are called Turbans. Stuff or not, as wished, with highly seasoned soaked bread, and place in pan with butter or oil in the bottom, but no water. Cook in oven only long enough for the flakes to separate. Dish and serve on tartare sauce. Flounders or any fish may be used. Fish with Parmesan Cheese. — Remove all bone and skin from some cold fish ; trim it nicely, and place in a stewpan over the fire ; add sufficient white sauce to"^moisten it. Butter a dish, arrange the fish and sauce upon it, and strew it rather thickly wdth bread- crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle it with melted butter, and place in oven to brown. If the flavor of Parmesan is too strong Gruyere cheese may be used ; or the bread-crumbs alone may be employed, when a dish of cold fish, au gratin, is intended to be served. Fish in Jelb/. — Make a savory jelly of calves' feet, (see Jellies), or by slowly boiling any kind of fish — flounders, or any flat fish, whatever is cheapest — until it jellies, which may be ascertained by the usual test for jellies, which see. Some like the flavor of a few button onions, a little lemon juice, parsley, and a slight sprinkling of sugar cooked with the fish. Strain, and if not perfectly clear, clarify according to directions in soups and pour a little into a mold ; when properly set, arrange upon it the previously cooked fish (smelts, Uerch, or other small fish should be fried or baked with the tail in FISH. 271 the mouth), and carefully pour in more jelly until the mold is filled. When entirely cold and congealed wrap it in a hot cloth for a few- moments and turn out on an ornamental dish. Serve for supper or luncheon. Slices or strips of cold salmon, turbot or soles, when used, may be cut in fancy shapes or arranged in ornamental devices in the jelly, and oysters, cooked just enough to jilump them, hard- boiled eggs in rings, .or forcemeat balls colored a bright green with spinach juice, are nice additions. A very handsome and appetizing dish. Fish with Olives. — Peel and cut a nice tender cucumber into slices an inch thick ; fry them in olive oil, and fry in another pan some fillets of fish bound and rubbed in flour and white pepper ; when done, arrange the slices of cucumber in a dish and place the fillets upon them. Throw some stoned olives into the oil and let remain just long enough to get hot. Put them round' the dish and serve at once. Fish with Bice. — Carefully bone enough cold fish to make a moderate-sized dish, add cayenne pepper and salt, and lightly fry in a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter ; when quite hot add a teacup boiled rice and chopped yolks of four hard-boiled eggs ; stir well to- gether until perfectly hot ; shape it upon a dish, and serve with pickles. Boiled Bass. — Clean a handsome piece of fish, open it at the belly and remove the bone ; lard the flesh Avith slips of anchovy, truffles, tunny fish, and gherkins; stuff it with the flesh of other fish, such as lobster, oysters, crayfish, prawns, etc ; season and fasten it together so that it may retain its original form as nearly as possible ; wrap in a cloth and boil in richly-flavored liquor till done ; when cold remove the covering, lay in a dish, glaze and decorate round with crusts of jelly and little ornamental heaps of butter. Salmon, sturgeon and pike can be cooked as above. Potted Bloater. — Cut oft' heads and clean as many fish as wanted, then put in oven till cooked through ; take from oven, skin and carefully separate meat from bones; put the meat in ajar with half its weight of butter and set in cool oven to cook slowly half an hour ; then put the fish into a mortar or bowl, pour the butter over it, taking care not to let the gravy pass too, unless fish is to be eaten soon, as it will not keep so well ; pound butter and fish together with a pestle or potato masher, to a paste, add a little cayenne, and press into small pots, pouring melted butter or mutton suet a third of an inch thick over top of each. Least expensive and most appetizing of all potted meats, and makes excellent sandwiches. Boiled Cod^s Head and Shoulders. — Cleanse the fish thorough- ly, and rub a little salt over the thick part' and inside of the fish, 272 FISH. CuJ 4 Heal ami Should, rs one or two hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the flavor. Lay the head and shoulders in fish-kettle or deep pan with sufficient cold water to cover. Be very particular not to pour the water on the fi^^i, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring it in at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in proportion of three table- spoonstoeach gallon of wa- ter, and bring gradually to a boil ; a little horse-radish and vinegar or lemon juice added now im- prove the fish. Skim very carefully, draw to tlie back of range, and let it gently simmer till done, about half an hour. Take out and drain ; dish on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon, and horse- radish and serve with either drawn butter or eggs. Prepare Boiled White Fish in same manner. For a Cod Pie, carefully remove all skin from any fish that is left and pick from the bones, place in a pie dish or pan, pour over melted butter to moisten, and a dozen or so oysters (or oyster sauce if left) and cover with mashed potatoes. Bake half an hour and serve nicely browned. Any cold fish may be used and is delicious and very economical. A more elaborate Cod Pie is made by laying two fresh slices large cod in salt for four hours, Avash, place in a dish, season, add two tablespoons butter, half pint any good stock, cover with pie or baking powder crust as rich as liked with center cut out by a cuj) and bake one hour. ]\Iake a sauce of quarter pint cream or milk, one tablespoon stock, a little thickening of Hour and butter, finely-chopped lemon peel and a dozen or so oysters, let boil once and pour it into the pie at opening in center. The piece cut out can be placed upon the pie and carefully lifted up to add the sauce. Bake a quarter of an hour and then serve in dish in which it is baked. Cooked cod may be used and any fish may be substituted for the cod. For a Codfish Poll., chop fine cold cooked fish, pour over it drawn-butter or egg sauce, season to taste. "Warm thoroughly, stirring to prevent burning ; make up in rolls or any other form and brown in oven ; or after prepared with sauce put in the frying-pan with a little oil, lard or drippings, and heat through and then shape into a roll and broAvn, turning it over and over to brown evenly. Cold cod is an admirable material for making pretty little din- ner and breakfast dishes. An excellent curry may be made by breaking up cold fish into flakes as neatly as possible. These should be fried in butter, with onions cut in rings and a suspicion of shal- FISH. 273 lot, to a fine light hrown color ; then take some butter rolled in flour, put into a stewpan, and let it take a light color ; add some good white stock or gravy, and a large spoonful curry powder made into paste with cream ; throAV in flaked fish (not the onions), simmer for about ten minutes, and serve with rice in separate dish. Cold salt cod may be used. Cod Sounds. — These are the air or swimming bladders of the fish and should be well soaked in salted water, and thoroughly washed before dressing. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be broiled, fried, or boiled; if they are boiled, mix a little milk with the water. Cod Sounds ivith Forcemeat. — Make a force- meat of twelve chopped oysters, three chopped anchovies, c^uarter pound bread-crumbs, tablespoon butter, two eggs ; seasoning of salt pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste. Mix the ingredients well to- gether. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for half an hour ; take out and let cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll up in nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with butter, dredge Avith flour, and broil gently over the fire or bake in oven. Codiish a la Mode. — One cup codfish (if salt codfish is used freshen overnight), picked up fine, two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two eggs Avell-beaten, half cup butter, salt and pepper ; mix well, bake in baking-dish from twenty to twenty-five minutes. For Scalloped C^^rZ/f 5/^, use bread-crumbs instead of pota- toes, moistening them with the cream or milk, putting in the dish in layers, alternating with the fish, and finishing with the crumbs; sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake half an hour, or the mashed potatoes may be used also. Codfish and Eggs. — Take a pint each freshened and flaked cod- fish (or any cooked salt-fish) and milk or cream, two tablespoons flour, one of butter and six eggs. Mix the flour smooth in a little of the milk, putting the remainder on to boil ; stir in the flour, and add the fish, season with pepper (it should be salt enough) and cook ten minutes. Poach the eggs carefully. Turn the cooked fish over six slices or rounds of nicely toasted bread on a platter, and place the eggs on the fish. Garnish with points of toast and sprigs of parsley. A delicious dish. Codfish Fritters. — One pint fineh'' picked salt codfish, two of whole raw peeled potatoes. Place together in cold water and boil till potatoes are done. Remove from fire and drain ; mash well, add tablespoon butter, two well-beaten eggs and a little white pepper. Mix with a wooden spoon and drop in hot cooking-oil or lard iii spoonfuls as fritters- 274 FISH. Codiish Mountain. — Soak some codfish, and simply boil in water ; take up, bone and flake nicely, and put into a stewpan over the fire ; keep stirring while gradually dropping upon it some good Italian olive-oil ; Avhen the fish becomes a sort of cream, add finely- chopped parsley, a bruised garlic, and a grated lemon-neel ; serve heaped up in a dish. Cream Codfish. — Soak pieces of codfish several hours in cold water, o^* wash thoroughly, heat in oven and pick fine, and place in skillet with cold water ; boil a few minutes, pour oflt' water and add fresh, boil again (if not very salt the second boiling is not necessary), and drain off as before; then add a pint and a half sweet milk to each pint codfish — or part cream and part milk, half and half is very nice — a^ piece of butter size of an egg when cream is not used and a thickening made of a tablespoon Hour (or half tablespoon corn starch) mixed with two tablespoons cold milk until smooth like cream; season with white pepper, stir well just before taking from fire, drop in an egg if liked, stir very briskly, and serve. This is very rich and thick, and is a very nice dish of fish. If wanted as a gravy, or when much gravy is liked, use double the quantity of milk, butter and flour. Salt codfish is also excellent broiled. Soak overnight, and broil as other fish. Masked Codfish. — Stir four tablespoons butter with a pint hot mashed potatoes and add a half pint finely shredded codfish, a gill milk or cream and teaspoon pepper. Butter a quart tin mold and pack it evenly and smoothly with the above mixture ; let it stand in the oven ten minutes ; turn it out on the perforated plate of the fish- kettle, cover with beaten yolk of egg and bread-crumbs ; have ready enough hot fat in the fish-kettle to immerse it, sink the plate into the fat and let stand until the Avhole is nicely l^rowned. Be sure the fat is hot enough or the dish will be spoiled. Slide carefully upon a platter and garnish with curled parsley. If a fish-kettle is not at hand mask ])y browning in the oven, covered with egg only. Egg sauce is excellent with this. Fried Eels. — Skin, take off head and tail, cut into small pieces, throw into boiling water for five minutes, drain, roll in flour or corn meal peppered and salted, and fry in very hot lard. A favorite way of cooking them is to skin and boil in salted water with a few pepper- corns. Let stand in water until cold and serve cold. Fried Flounders. — Bone the flounders and divide into four pieces. Have a deep skillet of hot fat ready, wipe each piece of fish dry, dip in milk, then in flour, drop them into the fat and when beautifully brown, which will be in about ten minutes, take up in a colander, and then lay them on a towel to absorb any fat, place on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley or celery tops. Pronounced equal to the Delmonico fillet de sole. FISH. 275 Boiled Haddock. — Wash a three-pound haddock as soon as it comes from market, and someplace in a large pan containing plenty of cold water and a handful of salt for a short time. To cook, place in fish-kettle with cold water to cover, a gill of vinegar, tablespoon gait, a small root of parsley, six cloves and one sprig each of thyme and majoram. When the water boils jfish will usually be done ; test by pulling out a fin, if it comes out easily and flesh of fish looks clear white it is done. Take up carefully without breaking, remove the skin by scraping gently so as to avoid tearing the fish. Serve with parsley or anchovy sauce. For small haddocks, fasten tails in their mouths and pin with a wooden toothpick and place in boiling water. Generally they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in length and such are esteemed very delicate eating. Haddocks are at their best in November, December, June and July. Any fish may be cooked as above. Creamed Haddock. — Put a fish weighing five or six pounds on in cold water enough to cover, and which contains one tablespoon of salt. Cook gently twenty minutes ; then lift out of the water, but let it remain on the tray. Now carefully remove all the skin and the head ; then turn the fish over into the dish in which it is to be served (it should be stone china), and scrape off the skin from the other side. Pick out all the small bones ; they are down the whole length of the back, and a few in the lower part of the fish, near the tail, in rows like pins in a paper, and it will take but a few minutes to remove them. Then take out the back-bone, starting at the head and Avorking gently down toward the tail. Great care must be taken, that the fish may keep its shape. Cover with pre- pared cream as follows : Put one quart milk, two sprigs parsley and small sliced onion on to boil, reserving half a cup milk to mix with two tablespoons flour. When it boils, stir in the flour paste. Cook eight minutes. Season highly with salt and pepper, add tablespoon butter, strain on the fish, and bake about ten minutes, just to brown it a little. Garnish with parsley or little puff-paste cakes ; or, cover it with the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then slightly brown. A cusk or cod can be cooked in same way. Baked Halihut. — Use neck of halibut, the thin part just below the head, under the gills. Wash in cold water, and if not ready to use let it stand in cold water. Put butter, drippings, or pieces of salt pork in baking pan, lay in the fish and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting with the drippings, being careful not to let burn ; place on hot platter without breaking the fish and serve with tomato sauce around it. To make the sauce for three pounds fish, take a pint canned or fresh tomatoes, cook and season with salt, pepper, and if wished, a clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Creoled Halihut. — Wash a thick square piece of fresh halibut, place in baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and strew over it 276 FISH. a finely chopped clove of garlic, about the size of a bean, and cover with a cup of fresh or canned tomatoes. Bake until flakes separate ; dish without breaking. Bal'ed Herrings. — Scale and clean two pounds herrings care- fully without washing, unless it be absolutely necessary. Split down the back and remove backbones, sprinkle inside with a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace mixed together. If there are any roes enclose them in the fish and place latter in layers in a baking dish with six each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and two bay leaves. Cover with an equal mixture of vinegar and water or all vinegar, salt j^lentifully and tie a sheet of oiled paper over the dish, and bake one hour ; serve cold. Baked Salt Herring are prepared by soaking the herring overnight, roll in flour and butter, and place in a dripping pan witli a very little water over them ; season with pepper, and after putting in oven baste frequently. Herring Pudding. — First thoroughly wash and then soak two salt herrings in water overnight, or in sweet milk four or five hours, as the milk extracts the salt in half the time and even less. Pick in pieces and place in a quart baking dish a layer of fish with little bits of butter and then a layer of cold boiled potatoes sliced, and one of cooked rice, then fish, etc., with potatoes lor last laver ; cover with a custard made of one pint milk, two eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, and bake in oven half an hour; rice may be omitted. Any salt or fresh fish (not soaking) may be used, and any cold cooked fish. Balced 2Tackerel. — Clean four medium-sized fish, the largest seldom weigh over two pounds, take out. the roes and fill with a forcemeat made by mixing well together tablespoon each fresh but- ter, finely shredded suet and fat bacon, diced, small teaspoon minced savory herbs and parsley, a little finely minced onion, if liked, four tablespoons bread-crumbs, one egg, salt, nutmeg and cayenne to taste. Sew up slit, flour, and put in a baking dish, heads and tails alternately, put on bits of butter, pepper and salt, then the roes. Bake half an hour and serve with plain drawn butter or a maitre d'hotel sauce. Boiled Mackerel. — Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the kettle with sufiicient water to cover, with quarter pound salt to each gallon water ; bring it gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done, when the tail splits and the eye starts out, generally about ten min- utes ; dish on a hot nai)kin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish """••'"' M.ckerei. with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to boiled mackerel ; but caper or anchovy sauce is PISH. 277 Bometimes served with it. When variety is desired,' fillet the mack- erel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter ; send some of this besides, in a tureen. Or for Pickled Mackerel., boil as above, place in dish, take half the liquor in which tliey were boiled, add as much vinegar, a few pepper-corns and a bay leaf or two, boil ten minutes and when cold, pour over the fish. Broiled Mackerel. — Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, but merely wiped ve.ry clean and dry after taking out the gills and inside. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil ; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both Bides, and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, which will be in about ten minutes for a small mackerel, the flesh can be de- tached from the bone. Chop a little parsley, mix with butter, pep- er and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the ack. Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a maitre d^ hotel sauce in a tureen. Salt Mackerel. — Take mackerel from the salt, wash carefully, and lay them inside downward in a pan of cold water for twelve to fifteen hours ; change the water frequently, and if wanted sooner the fish may be soaked in sweet or sour milk — it will freshen in half the time. Scrape clean, and for Boiled Mackerel wrap in a cloth and simmer fifteen minutes ; it will be almost done when the water reaches boiling point ; remove, lay on it two hard-boiled eggs sliced, pour drawn butter over and trim with parsley leaves. Boiling salt- nsh hardens it. For Baked Mackerel., lay in shallow pan, the inside offish down ; cover with water, and set it over a gentle fire or in an oven for twelve or fiften minutes ; then pour ofi' water, turn fish, put bits of butter in pan, and over the fish, sprinkle with pepper and fry for five minutes, then serve. Baked Mullet. — Cut one carrot and two onions into thin slices ; add thyme, parsley and marjoram, with pepper and salt to taste, and three tablespoons salad oil ; mix well together, cover each mul- let with the mixture, and roll it up in a piece of white paper, previ- ously oiled ; bake in a moderate oven half all hour, then carefully open the paper, place the fish neatly on a dish, ready to serve, and keep it warm. Melt a small piece butter, add a large pinch flour, a half cup good stock, and the vegetables, etc., the fish were cooked in. Let the sauce boil five minutes, add salt if wanted ; strain, skim, pour over the fish, and serve. Fried Pan-Fish. — Take perch, sun-fish, or any small fish ; place in pan with heads together, and fill spaces with smaller fish; when ready to turn, put a plate over, drain off fat, invert pan, and the fish will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back in the pan and when hot., slip back the fish, and when the other side is 278 FISH. brown, drain, turn on plate as before, and slide them on the platter to go to the table. This improves the appearance, if not the llavor. The heads should be left on, and the shape preserved as fully as possible. Baked Pickerel. — Clean the fish thoroughly, wipe carefully, and lay in a dripping-pan with hot water enough "to prevent scorch- ing; a perforated tin slieet or rack fitting closely in tlie pan, or hard- wood sticks laid crosswise, or several muffin-rings may be used to keep the fisli from the bottom of the pan, and the fish may be made to form a circle by tying head and tail together ; cover with an in- verted pan and bake slowly, basting occasionally with butter and water. It will not need so frequent Ijasting if covered. Remove pan fifteen or twenty minutes before done to brown nicely. When done have ready a cup sweet cream into ■which a few spoons hot water have been poured, stir in two tablespoons melted butter and a little chopped parsley, and heat in a vessel of boiling water ; add the gravy from the fish and boil up once. Place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over the sauce. Bake Salmon and Trout same way. Pike a la Godard. — The inside of a fine pike must be removed through the gills, and the fish put into scalding water in order that the skin may l)e stripi)cd off" easily ; also tie the head with fine twine. "Wrap the fish in buttered paper, put it into a fish-kettle and cover with cold water. When pike is done, which can be told by touching it gently, drain it and garnish with cray-fish, which are simply the homely craw-fish, and quenelles of forcemeat made as VWc a la Oodard. follows : Take one teacup bread-crumbs, one teaspoon minced savory herbs, eight oysters, two anchovies (or omit the latter), two ounces suet ; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste ; six table- spoons of cream or milk, and two eggs. Beard and mince the oys- ters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and when properly pre- pared, pound all together in a mortar for some time ; for the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding, adding a seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended together, mold into balls, roll in flour, and poach in boiling water FISH. 279 to which a little salt has been added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk of another egg, but omit the white, which only makes them hollow and puffy inside, and whites may be omitted altogether. In the preparation of the quenelles the ingredients are to be loell pounded and seasoned, for this is the secret of the French quenelles ; when they are wished very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in their preparation. Their flavor may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant or grouse, with the addition of mushroom, parsley, etc. Prepare the crayfish by throw- ing into boiling water, to which has been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. "When done, which will be in fifteen minutes, take out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange around the fish as illustrated, alternately with the quenelles. This fish is also nice for garnishing boiled turkc}', boiled fowl, calf's head, and all kinds of boiled fish. It should be oftener employed for the delicious soup it makes than it at present is, and housewives should excite a de- mand for it among the fishmongers and a supply would soon be forthcoming. They are also nice as Potted Crayfish. Boil one hun- dred crayfish in salt and water ; pick out all the meat and pound it in a mortar to paste. Whilst pounding, add two tablespoons butter graduall}', and mix in pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste. Put it in small pots, and pour over it clarified butter, carefully exclud- ing the air. Fried Red Snapper. — Cut a red snapper in pieces and fry brown. In a separate vessel, cut up and fry one onion and two cloves of garlic ; when brown, add two tablespoons flour, one pint prepared tomatoes, a little pepper, salt to taste, one tablespoon Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen whole cloves. Let this sim- mer half an hour, and stir in a tablespoon vinegar. Pour over the fried fish, and serve immediately. Or fry by immersing in hot fat as directed in Fried Fish. Red Snapper is also very nice boiled. Fried Roe. — Fish-spawn, especially the shad, is a delicacy great- ly prized by epicures. Wash and wipe, fry twenty minutes in hot fat in a frying pan on both sides ; season, dish on a hot platter and place around it a row or double row of plain fried oysters. Put a bunch of parsley in the center, and half a lemon with the peel cut in saw teeth. Or first boil the roes (cutting them in two if large), in water seasoned with vinegar, salt and pepper, ten minutes, take out and plunge them in slightly salted cold water, wipe dry again, and let them lay a minute or two ; then roll in beaten egg and bread-crumbs and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot lard or drippings. Serve with a sauce made of a cup drawn butter, a teaspoon anchovy sauce, piece of half a lemon, a little minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Send around in a gravy boat. Another nice way of ftying and serving roe is to first wash any kind of fish-roe in salted cold water, and dry it on a towel ; then put into a frying-pan containing 280 FISH. sufficient hot fat to prevent burning ; cover the pan ana Drown the roe, first on one side and then on the other; when it is done lay it on brown paper to free it from fat, and then on a hot dish. Mean- time, peel naif a dozen potatoes, cut in small balls with a vegetable scoop, or in pieces an inch Sfjuare; tbrow them into salted boiling water, and boil until a trussing needle or sharp fork will easily pierce them, but do not lioil tli<-m soft ; as soon as they are tender drain them and lay them Ix^twecn the folds of a towel until the fish- roe is brown. Then put the potatoes into the hot fat where the roe was fried, set the ]~>an over the fire and shake the potatoes about in it until the}' are brown. Serve them under the fish-roe after dusting them over with pepper and salt. For Roe Croquettes take four medium-sized shad roes, two boiled potatoes, ounce each butter and flour, gill cold water, tabU'spoon choi)i)ed parsley, teaspoon each lemon juice and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two hard-boiled eggs, one raw egg and fcmr tablespoons bread-crumbs. Boil the roes twenty minutes, take out, drain and placing in a bowl separate Avith a wooden spoon ; add the pepper, salt and chopped parsley ; rub through a sieve over tbe bowl the hard-boiled 3'olks and then the potatoes ; add the two hard-boiled whites, finely chopped, and the lemon juice. Melt tlie butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and gill cold water by degrees, and when boiling pour it over the materials in the bowl and stir all thoroughly together. Make into small shapes resembling the shad-roe, beat the raw egg and dip these into it, roll in the bread-crumbs, and fry as doughnuts in hot fat, draining on a piece of kitchen paper over a sieve in oven to keep hot, and serve in a folded napkin. Or for the four shad roes take one pint cream, four tablespoons each corn-starch, and butter, one teaspoon salt, juice of two lemons, slight grating of nutmeg and a speck cayenne. Boil the roe as above, then drain and mash. Put the cream on to boil, mix the butter and corn-starch together, and stir into the boil- ing cream ; add the seasoning and roe ; boil up once, and set away to cool. Make into balls, or shape and fry as directed above. Bal'ed Salmo7i. — Procure a middle cut of salmon ; butter both sides of a large sheet of writing paper and roll the fish in it, pinning the ends securely together. Put it in the baking pan and pour a half cup butter and water over it. Cover with another pan and bake in a moderate oven one hour, lifting the cover occasionally to baste and see that the paper does not scorch. Make a sauce by beating a cup of*cream over boiling Avater, thicken with a heaping teaspoon corn-starch, add a tablespoon butter, and pepper, salt and finely chopi)ed })arslev to taste. When the salmon is done, take off the paper, place on a hot platter, pour half the sauce slowly over it and send the rest to table in a boat. If cream cannot be had for the sauce use milk and a well beaten egg. Salmon Croquettes. — This dainty dish may be made of the fresh fish, boiled and cold, or of the canned salmon. The meat must FISH. 281 be carefully separated from bones and skin, chopped fine and the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon chopped parsley, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne added ; mix all together. Put two tablespoons best butter for each pint and a half chopped salmon into a sauce- pan with two teaspoons flour and cook tog;ther, stirring constantly. Add a little of the stock the fish was boiled in and a cup of cream. Boil for five or six minutes, stirring steadily, then mix in the chopped salmon, stir well together, and add and stir rapidly in yolks four eggs. Continue to stir briskly a few minutes longer, then pour the mixture out upon a large flat dish and set it in a cool place until perfectly cold. Then make in small rolls-or pear-shaped cones, using just enough flour to prevent the mixture from sticking to the hands. When all are done, dip them one at a time into eggs beaten up M'ith a little cream, and roll them in freshly-made bread-crumbs. Let them rest for an hour, then fry them to a delicate brown color in plenty of boiling hot lard. Or, mix with three-fourths pint shred salmon, five tablespoons bread-crumbs; melt one and one-half table- spoons butter and pour over the mixture, adding half teaspoon each salt and pepper and saltspoon each grated nutmeg and powdered mace ; beat all together and add juice of half a lemon, teaspoon anchovy sauce and two beaten eggs, stirring well ; shape and fry as above. Salmon Fritters. — Remove skin and bone from a pound canned salmon, mince and add an equal quantity potato that has been mashed and mixed with butter and cream ; work the mixture into little cakes and fry in a little butter. Boiled Salmon. — Scale and clean fish, and be particular that no blood is left inside ; lay in fish-kettle with sufiicient hot v/ater, to cover (hot is used to better preserve the color) adding salt in the proportion of six tablespoons to a gallon water. Bring it quickly to a boil, take off scum, and let simmer gently till the fish is done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster, oyster, shrimp or hollandaise sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fi^h, and a little lemon-juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable addition. Peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially adapted to be served with salmon. Boiled is the best way of cook- ing salmon. For a more fancy dish arrange in the form of a letter S, as follows : Thread a trussing-ncedle with some twine ; tie the end of the string around the head, fastening it tight ; then pass the needle through the center part of the body, draw the string tight, and fasten it around the tail. The fish will assume the desired form. Salmon 282 FISH. prepared thus is very nice served cold at evening parties with a mayonnaise sauce poured over. It may then be mounted on a pedestal -which may be carved with a sharp knife in any form de- sired from bread two or three days old, fried a nice brown in deep lard, or made of wood covered with white paper brushed over with aspic jelly ; the salmon should then also be decorated with bits of aspic jelly in squares or other forms. Cauliflower blossoms and sliced or quartered hard-boiled eggs make a very pretty and appro- priate decoration when served with the mayonnaise sauce. Broiled Salmon Cutlets. — Cut slices an inch thick, and season with pepper and salt ; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with the ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve Avith anchovy or caper sauce. When higher season- ing is liked, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice. Escalloped Salmon. — Roll fine one quart crackers, season with salt and pepper and mix with one can salmon ; put in a skillet and add milk (or milk and water) to moisten well, and some bits of but- ter. Cover and steam thoroughly. Fried Salmon Steaks. — Cut slices an inch thick from the mid- dle of the fish, wipe dry and sprinkle on a little salt, then dip in egg and cracker dust and fry in hot salad oil or butter, turning to brown both sides. Drain and serve on hot platter lined with clean paper fringed at the ends ; garnish with parsley. Canned Salmon. — The California canned salmon is nice served cold with any of the fish sauces ; mix together yolks of three eggs, half cup each cream and vinegar, two teaspoons brown sugar, salt, pepper, and celer3'-seed to taste ; boil thick like custard and pour over one can salmon. For a breakfast dish, it may be heated, seasoned with salt and pepper, and served on slices of toast, with milk thickened with flour and butter poured over it. Crimped Salmon. — Take a middle cut of fresh salmon and cut in slices two or three inches thick. Lay in cold salted water one hour; then place in boiling salted water, skim and simmer gently twenty minutes, if very thick slices. Garnish as in boiled salmon and serve with same sauce. Salmon Pudding. — Chop a can of preserved salmon or an equal amount of cold, either roast or boiled, and rub it in a mortar, or in a lx)wl with the back of a spoon, adding four tablespoons melt- ed — not hot — butter, until it is a smooth paste. Beat a half cup fine bread-crumbs with four eggs and season with salt, pepper and minced parsley, and mix all together. Put into a buttered jiudding mold and boil or steam one hour. Make a sauce with one cup milk thickened with tablespoon corn-starch, the liquor from the canned FISH. 283 salmon, and tablespoon butter, or double tbe quantity of butter when the liquor is not used, teaspoon anchovy, mushroom or tomato cat- sup, a pinch of mace or cayenne, and a beaten egg stirred in last very carefully. Boil one minute, and when the salmon is turned from the mold pour the sauce over it. Cut in slices at table. A very nice supper dish. Steioed Salmon. — SteAvacanof salmon in the liquor, (or cold, boiled or roast in a very little water), slightly salted, ten minutes. Have ready in a large saucepan a cup drawn butter thickened with rice- flour or corn-starch. Season Avith cayenne and salt to taste and stir in carefully two beaten eggs, then the salmon. Let it come to a gentle boil, add two hard-boiled eggs and some capers or green pickles, all chopped fine, and turn into a covered deep dish. Or add the hard-boiled eggs and capers to the stewed salmon, with a table- spoon butter, toss up lightly with a fork, pepper slightly, and heap in the center of a hot flat dish, then pour the boiling sauce over all. Very nice either way. Sardines. — These are small fish of the herring family and come to us in half pound and pound tin boxes, preserved in oil, averaging from a dozen to twentv-four fish. They are an excellent relish and form a wholesome and agreeable addition to a breakfast, luncheon, or tea. Take out carefully, whole if possible, place on platter and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, serving a slice with the fish. The American Sardines., or shrimps, are used but are larger and not considered as delicate. For Fried Sardines, procure largest- sized sardines, remove from oil, place on di«h, and let drain a few minutes; dip fish in well-beaten egg, and roll in cracker crumbs; fry brown as fritters or in a little butter or oil ; mix oil left in box with cracker-crumbs, make in very small cakes and fry and use as a garnish for the fish, alternated with sprigs of parsley. Serve hot. If one wishes ^^^^^le-Made Sardines can be made : Clean small fish, shrimps are nice, salt slightly and let stand overnight ; in the morning drain. Fry in oil, just enough to cook them, then pack in tin cans or boxes, or glass cans, putting them in as closely as pos- sible. Cover with oil, and, if in boxes, solder the tops on ; if bottles, screw the covers on tight. Put cans in a kettle of cold water, and bring to a boil as quickly as possible. Let boil about an hour and a quarter, then punch a small hole in tin cans to let out the gas, and seal again immediately. If in glass, unscrew the top and screw it on again as soon as possible. Let stand awhile before using. A favorite Parisian dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and boned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put into the oven, with buttered pnper over them, to get hot. Before serving, lemon juice is sprinkled over. BaJced Shad. — Open and clean fish, cut off head (or not as pre- ferred), cut out backbone, from the head to within two inches of the 284 risn. tail, and fill with the folloAving mixture : Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry ; cut a large onion in pieces, fry in butter, chop fine, add bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and a little finely chopped onion, parsley or sage ; heat thoroughly, and when taken from the fire, add two yolks of eggs well-beaten ; stufT, and, when full, sew or wind the fish several times with tape, place in baking- pan and cover the bottom of pan with water, adding a little butter, and baste often. When done serve with the following sauce : Re- duce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth ])aste, add two table-spoons olive oil, half teaspoon mustard, and pepper and vinegar to taste. Planked Shad is very delicious. Take a heavy oak plank 18x24 inches in size, and about an inch thick. The shad must be a ]'>crfectly fresh, solid and firm roe shad ; wash, wipe, salt on l)oth sides and lay on board, skin side down ; put the roes in their places, and bake from thirty to forty minutes. If it does not brown easily, rub butter over when partly done. The smoking of the wood in the oven adds to the flavor. Baked Sheeps-head. — ^yhcn ready for cooking, salt and pepper well, gash the sides in three or four places, mince four onions fine, add one pint bread-crumbs, a little finely minced fat meat, yolks of two eggs ; blend all together; season with a little cayenne pepper, salt and thyme; with this stuff the fish and fill gashes on the out- side; sprinkle over with flour and black pepper ; bake slowly in a large })an with one quart hot water two hours. Serve with any sauce preferred. Sardine Sauce is a capital fish sauce. For this bone half a dozen large sardines, make an ordinary sauce of butter and gravy, and in this boil the bones, together with a minced shalot, lemon peel, a bay leaf, and some pepper, and either nutmeg or mace. Boil fifteen minutes, or until all the several flavors have been obtained ; then strain the sauce and add to it the sardines, chopped Bmall. Baked Smelts. — Wash, and dry twelve smelts thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover with fine bread-crumbs, and little pieces of butter. Season with salt, cayenne, and two blades pounded mace, and bake for fifteen minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. For Fried Smelts the fish should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread-cruml)s, and fry in hot lard as doughnuts to nice pale brown ; be careful Q not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their — d beauty will be spoiled. Dry them before the fire on a -Tt^C|?j€lfO drainer, and serve at once (or the crispness and flavor will )/ y y be lost.) with plain melted butter. Or place on skewers , ■* ^ with thin slices of bacon between the fish ; fry in hot — *^©-o lard or oil as above, serving one skewerful, skewer and all, to each person, garnishing with lemon slices. Use either silver FISH. 285 plated or polished wire skewers. They are about three inches long. Fried Filleted Soles. — Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash the fish, raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs ; fry as doughnuts. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat ; or place a sheet of kitchen paper in a dripping pan; place the fillets on that and set in oven a moment or two. Particular attention should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy fish. Serve hot and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they look much better than Avhen fried whole. Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. Any fish may be filleted as above. Balked Sturgeon. — A piece of sturgeon weighing five or six pounds is enough for a handsome dish ; skin and put in salted water and parboil for half an hour to remove superfluous oil ; pre- pare a dressing of bread-crumbs, fine bits of fat salt pork, sweet herbs and butter; gasli upper end of fish quite deeply and rub this forcemeat in well ; place in baking dish on trivet with a little hot water to prevent burning and bake an hour. Serve with a drawn butter sauce in which has been stirred a tablespoon caper sauce and one of walnut catsup or anchov)'- sauce. Sturgeon Steaks. — Skin steaks carefully and place in cold salted water for an hour to remove oily taste ; wipe dry, broil over hot coals on a buttered gridiron. When done serve on hot platter seasoned with pepper and butter, and salt if needed, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve the latter with the fish. Make a sauce by browning tablespoon butter in pan, then add a tablespoon browned flour first wet with a little cold water and then stirred into a half teacup boiling water, season and add a teaspoon Worcestershire or anchovy sauce and juice of a lemon ; when it boils serve in gravy boat with the steaks. Baked Trout. — Scale and scrape clean a seven-pound Lake Superior trout, but do not cut off head or tail ; wash inside quickly wdth cold water and rub well with salt and pepper if wished ; then score the top (back) of fish by making gashes two and a half inches long, an inch deep and three inches kpart ; now stuff with a rather dry dressing made by cutting ofl' crusts from four or five slices bread, 286 FISH. put in pan, pour over a very little boiling water, cover tightly with a cloth, and when soft add tablespoon butter, pepper, salt, an egg and the bread from which the crusts were cut. Mix Avell and add a little seasoning of sage, marjoram, or any mixed seasoning, using only a very small pinch ; sew up and tie securely in a circle by placing a string around the back of head under the gills and then around the first score above the tail, and ])Utting the tail in the mouth ; cutting a few small gashes in the side offish next to the in- side of circle facilitates the shaping. Beat two eggs and spread over fish, having first placed it on a large tin or earthen plate, putting egg batter well inside the gashes, sprinkle with finely rolled cracker crumbs and put a little butter in each gash and more on top, unless a very fat fish. Place in dripping pan on the plate or trivet in a moderately hot oven and add one quart boiling water and tablespoon salt ; in ten minutes baste well and baste every ten minutes till fish is done (in two hours). Bake slowly first hour, add more water if needed, then increase heat third half hour so that for last half hour the oven is very hot, thus nicely browning the fish. The basting every ten minutes is very important and must be done to avoid a dried-up, taste- less fish. .Slip from plate to hot platter and serve at once, garnished with parsley. The marinade given in preface may be used in place of part of the water, and gives a fine Fi^hKuifoandFurk. flavor. To serve easily carve with a fish knife and fork. Treat a white fish as above and a delicious Baked White Fish will result. BrooJi Tiwit.—W'a^h. and drain in a colander a few minutes, split nearlv to the tail, flour nicely, salt, and put in pan, which should be hot but not burning; throw in a little salt to prevent sticking, and do not turn until brown enough for the table. The general defect in cooking trout when fried, is over cooking. They should never bo done to a crisp. Fry also in a little butter or oil and omit the flour, frying them perfectly plain. For Broiled Trout wrap in a piece of glazed paper, which should be well buttered ; sprinkle a Very little salt and pepper on them ; put_ them in a double broiler and turn the broiler over from side to side. Serve with lemon juice over them. Boiled Trout is better than fried or broiled. Put trout on a napkin, sprinkle with salt, fold together and put in Ijoiling salted water. If they are of medium size will be cooked in tw(^ or three minutes. When done place on a clean napkin on a hot platter and serve with fresh butter and boiled potatoes. For Baked Trout, dry the iish, do not split theni ; lay on baking dish, add a little butter, pepper and salt. Serre as soon as done, which will be in fifteen or twenty minutes. FISH. 287 Fried Whitebait. — These fish must be put into ice water as soon as bought unless cooked immediately. Drain from the water in colander, and have ready a clean dry cloth, over which put two good handfuls flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake lightly in the cloth, and put in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous flour. Throw into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and let fry till a whitey-brown color ; take out and lay over the fire for a minute or two on a sieve reversed, covered with blotting paper to absorb the fat. Dish on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the center, and sprinkle a little salt over the Avhole. Baked White Fish. — Take out bone and skin as in general directions, and cut fish in pieces three inches long and two inches wide. Use two soup plates or deep earthen dishes same size, butter thickly with cold butter, place in layer of fish, season with pepper, salt and a little butter, then another layer fish, season as above using much more butter on last layer ; then butter inside of second dish very thoroughly and turn it upside down over the fish; put in oven and bake twenty minutes, or till flakes break. Boiled White Fish. — Clean, Avash and put a whole fish in kettle and cover with stock made as follows : Fry in saucepan two onions, a carrot, a piece of celery or celery seed, a tablespoon butter, one of flour, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoon of whole black peppers, and three cloves ; add two and a half quarts of water and two cups vinegar, boil twenty minutes, salt and skim, and when cold pour over fish, and boil gently until done. Dish on hot platter and garnish with potatoes cut in little balls, and placed like little piles of cannon balls around tlie dish. The potatoes should be simply boiled in salted water, and, if liked, may be browned in a little butter in frying-pan. An alternate pile of button mushrooms are a nice addition, and good also. Parsley or small curled lettuce leaves are placed between the piles. The fish may be stuffed before boiling with a dressing of rolled crackers seasoned with butter, pepper, salt and sage. See directions for boiled fish. For Spiced Fish take any cold cooked fish. Take out all l^ones and bits of skin, lay in a deep dish and barely cover with hot vinegar in which a few cloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. For Kedgeree, pick cup cold fish carefully from the bones, mix with cup boiled rice, tablespoon butter, teaspoon mustard, two soft boiled eggs, salt and cayenne to taste ; place in oven fifteen minutes and serve hot. The quantities may be varied according to amount of fish used. Or, chop two hard-boiled eggs slightly and put into a saucepan with a little melted butter, add fish and rice as above, stir over the fire until very hot, taking care that it does not burn, and just before serving add a teaspoon curry powder and a saltspoon each 2S8 FISH. pepper and salt. Pile high in the middle of a hot dish and sprinkle finely chopped parsley over the top. Creamed White Fish. — Steam a white fish till tender, take out bones and sprinkle with white pepper and salt. For dressing, heat a pint of milk, or stock, thicken with two tables])Oons flour and season with a little chopped onion or onion juice and parsley ; some add also juice of half a lemon or a tablespoon vinegar; when cool add two tablespoons butter and two well-beaten eggs. Put in a buttered l)aking dish a layer of fish, then a layer of the sauce or dressing till full, with sauce last ; cover the to]) with bread crumbs, add a little grated cheese if liked, bake half an hour, and serve in dish in which it was baked, garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs alternated with sprigs of ])arsley. In making the sauce some prefer to brown the flour in the butter, then add the stock or milk and other ingredients. A less rich sauce is one quart rich milk thickened with three tablespoons flour mixed smooth with a little of the quart of milk, two or three sprigs of parsley, an onion chopped fine, little cayenne and salt. Stir over fire till it thickens and add butter size of an egg. Some do not cool the fish before creaming, but skin and bone it, cut into pieces aljout three inches square, and ])ake in a shallow dish in two layers, with sauce inter- vening. Serve garnished with parsley and slices of hard-boiled egg. This quantity is enough for three pounds of fish, weighed after being skinned and boned, and will serve six persons if it is the only solid dish for dinner, or ten if served in a course. This disii is also called Fish an Grati?u and another way is to skin, cut off" the head, and take out the back-bone, leaving the fish in two large pieces. Season the fish, and prepare the sauce as before; butter a tin sheet that will fit loosely into a large baking-pan, lay the fish on tins and moisten well with sauce, cover thickly with bread- crumbs, and cook half an hour in a rather quick oven. Slip on hot ])latter and serve with tomato, tartare or hollandaise sauce poured around the fish. Cod cusk, flounder or any kind of light fish may be served after one or the other above methods. Warmed-ove?' Fish. — Stir a tablespoon flour into two of hot button- in saucepan, and add a half pint cold flaked fish, a tea- S})()on cold butter, dessert-spoon each anchovy or any other meat sauce and mixed mustard, a cup cream or thickened milk, pepper and salt to taste and a few bread-crumbs, Ileat to boiling point and serve liot. Or, put into buttered dish with bread-crumbs and bits of butter over the top, and brown. FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 289 FRITTERS AISTD CROQUETTES. Make the fritter batter quickly and Ijeat thoroughly until Bmooth. A good rule is two eggs, whites and yolks beaten sej^- ratcly, half pint milk, one level teaspoon salt, and pint flour, a tablespoon American cooking oil, or butter, or salad oil, and a seasoning of cinnamon or nutmeg may be added if wished ; if the batter is for fish or meat fritters add a saltspoon white pepper and a dash of cayenne. Water may be used instead of milk, with a table- spoon or two of lemon juice if liked, and some add the wetting gradually. The batter for fritters should be. just thick enough to drop, not run, from the spoon — do not make too stiff — and should be made an hour before using. Some claim it is better to stand a day, as the grains of flour swell by standing after being moistened and thus become lighter. Add the whites of eggs — and when baking powder is used, that also— just before frying. Less eggs are needed with baking powder, using one egg in the above batter with a heaping teaspoon baking powder or teaspoon cream tartar and half teaspoon soda. The fritters are much nicer wdth the eggs, and without the rising powders, but it is convenient to use the latter when preparing for immediate use. Some use cracker dust instead of flour, thinking it makes the batter lighter. Arrowroot may be used to thicken batters, sauces, etc., making the mixture much more delicate, and with it butter can be omitted. Its thick- ening property is about three times that of flour. It is better not to use sugar in the batter, as it tends to make it heavy, but sprinkle it over the fritters in the dish when just ready to serve, though in 290 KRITTKRS AND CROQUETTES. making fruit fritters some stir in a little sugar. Fruit fritters are made by chopping any kind of fresh or canned fruit fine and mixing it with batter, or by dipping it whole, halved, quartered or sliced into the batter, using a skewer or fork for this purpose, and taking a pint or less of any kind of fruit for the above quantity of batter. The fruit may be improved in flavor by sprinkling sugar and grated lemon or orange peel over it, and alloAving it to remain two or three hours, after which drain and dip in the batter as above ; or, marinade the fruit in a thin orange or lemon syrup. To marinade anything is to leave it m a composition long enough to absorb the (lavor — in this case, from one to two hours. Pork fritters are made by dipping thin bits of breakfast bacon or fat pork in tlie batter. The common practice is to fry fritters in lard, but the American cooking oil is much superior and no more expensive. It never burns, can be used again and again, and keeps clear and perfectly S"^et. Clarified drippings (see index), or half drippings and half lard, is much better than all lard. Have the fat in which to cook them nice and sweet, and heat slowly. Clarified fat boils at about five hundred degrees — more than double the heat of boiling water — and "fat actually boiling will burn to a cinder anything that is dropped into it. The proper cooking heat is three hundred and seventy-five degrees, and is indicated by a blue smoke arising from the surface of the fiit. When this point is reached, the fat may be held at tliat degree of heat, and prevented from burning by drop- ping into it a peeled potato or a piece of hard bread, which furnishes something for the fat to act upon. Generally the cold batter lowers the temperature of the fat sufhciently to keep it at proper cooking heat. Tlie heat may be tested by dropping in a teaspoon of the batter; if the temperature is right it will quickly rise in a light ball with a splutter, and soon brown ; drop the batter in by spoonfuls, being careful not to crowd, and fry to a golden-brown, turning with a wire spoon to brown both sides ; if the fat is of the right heat the fritters will be done in from three to five minutes and be light and delicious; if they should begin to brown too much check the heat at once ; take up carefully the moment they are done, with a wire tpoon or skimmer, drain in a hot colander, or in a pan with brown kitchen paper or blotting paper in the bottom to absorb the fat, set in oven to keep hot; some drain on an inverted sieve, placing pap'-r both under and over the fritters. Sift powdered sugar over them, FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 291 some use a little nutmeg or cinnamon also, and serve hot on a clean napkin to absorb any remains of fat ; or line the dish with tissue paper fringed at the ends ; paper napkins are nice for this purpose To keep hot, cover with a napkin, never with a dish-cover ; the former absorbs the steam that arises, which would otherwise gather on the inside of the cover, and dropping back on the fritters would make them soggy and heavy. A Fritter Doily, made of butchers' linen in the shape of a maltese cross, with any pretty design worked in the corners, is a new and happy conceit, as the fritters may be served upon it and the four ends be brought up to cover them. Always serve at once (frying as wanted) with syrup or honey, or any sweet sauce preferred, for which see Puddings. In all the recipes that follow, the mode of testing the fat and frying is the same as given above. A tablespoon of batter makes a fritter of the usual size, a teaspoon about the size of an oyster. Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, and eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as many of the messes recommended as food for dyspeptics Apple Fritters. — Make a batter in proportion of one cup sweet milk to two cups Hour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder, two eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon sugar, and saltspoon salt ; heat the milk a little more than milk-warm, add slowly to the beaten yolks and sugar, then add flour and whites of eggs ; stir all together and throw in thin slices of good sour apples, dipping the batter up over them ; drop in lard in large spoonfuls Avith piece of apple in each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup or a nice syrup made of sugar. Another way of making is to beat three eggs very lightly, stir in one teaspoon salt, one-half cup sugar, one pint milk, two cups chop])ed apple and two cups flour. Flavor with nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry as directed in preface ; sift sugar over them and serve. Or, peel, steam and pulp six good sized apples, add juice two lemons, four well-beaten eggs, sugar to taste and a little cream. Mix thoroughly, roll into balls with enough cracker dust or fine bread-crumbs to keep in shape and fry as above. Serve strewn with powdered sugar. A very nice way of preparing the apples is to pare and cut them across in slices about an inch thick, then with the corer remove the core from each slice, leaving a round opening in the center. Dip into the batter and fry each slice separately, lay them in a dish in a circle overlapping one another, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with a sweet sauce in the 292 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. center. Orange Fritters are prepared as above, and make a deli- cious desert. Apricot Fritters. — Cut apricots in quarters, remove skins care- fully and soak for an hour in orange syrup, drain on a sieve and dip each piece into this batter : Mix with one and one-half pints flour two tablespoons butter, two yolks of eggs and a little salt ; stir in slowly and a little at a time a tablespoon more than a pint luke- warm water, and work the batter with a wooden spoon until it looks creamy, then add well-whipped whites of three eggs. Fry a golden brown color, place in a dish, sift powdered sugar over, and send to table with a custard poured around them, dipping a spoonful over each fritter in serving. Fritters may be prepared as above with any stoned fruit. Banana Fritters. — One cup flour, yolks of two eggs, pinch of salt, two tablespoons melted lard or butter, water to make a batter as above. Add the whites beaten to a stiff" froth, and stir in lightly three or four bananas cut in slices. Dip with a spoon and fry as directed in preface. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with whipped or plain sweetened cream. This will make a dessert for eight persons. Berry Fritters. — One and a half pints flour, gill cream, or tablespoon melted butter, pint milk, six eggs, teaspoon salt ; mix well and add either blackberries, currants, gooseberries or rasp- berries and fry by si^oonfuls. Eat with a hard sauce. Brain Fritters. — Beat one egg and a half cup sweet milk with sufficient flour to make a thick batter, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Beat well and stir in beef or pork brains. Drop by spoonfuls, and fry in hot fat. Considered by some superior to oysters cooked in same way Cake Fritters. — TaKe six or eight stale small sponge cakes and roll or pound fine ; pour a cup boiling hot cream over them and stir in tablespoon corn starch wet with a little cold milk ; cover for half an hour, then beat until cold and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten light and strained, the whipped whites, then a quarter pound cur- rants thickly dredged with flour. Beat all well together. Drop from tablespoon, fry quickly and serve hot with any nice sauce. Or, make a sponge-cake batter, drop by teaspoonfuls and fry as above. Serve for dessert with a hot sauce. Celery Fritters. — Boil thick but tender stalks of celery in salted water ; when done dry on a cloth, cut in equal lengths about one and a half incht's ; fry in batter to a golden color, sprinkling fine Halt well over, and serve. If wanted extra nice cut a half dozen stalks tender, well blanched celery into pieces an inch or two long FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 293 and boil in salted water until tender. While boiling make a batter as follows : Mix smooth the yolk of a raw egg and a tablespoon salad oil ; add a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, sift in a half pint flour and add water to make a batter that will drop from spoon. Just before using add whipped whites of two eggs. Dip the cooked celery in this and fry a delicate brown in hot fat ; drain and serve ai*6nce. Clam Flutters. — Wash one dozen hard or soft shell clams, divide soft and hard parts of each clam, boil the latter in water half an hour, or till tender, drain, chop fine and add the water in which they were cooked, also the soft parts, yolks of two well-beaten eggs, ealtspoon salt, dash or two of cayenne, half pint milk, whites of eggs, and flour so that batter will drop from spoon ; fry as above. Or, make a batter with juice, an equal quantity of sweet milk, four eggs to each pint of liquid, and flour sufficient to stiffen; add chopped raw clams, or dip in the whole clam and fry. Corn Fritters. — To one quart grated raw sAveet corn, (fifteen common-sized ears) add yolks of three eggs and scant three-fourths pint cracker-crumbs ; if corn is not juicy use less, making batter oyily stiff" enough to drop from spoon. Beat very thoroughly, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites, and drop with tea- spoon and fry ; turn out and drain as directed. Serve hot, using the fritter doily in dish, or place an ordinary napkin under and over. Some add to this batter a piece of salt codfish, size of a silver dollar, shredded very fine, as this gives the peculiar oyster taste, and hence the name sometimes given them of Corn Oysters. Above proportions make six dozen fritters, and are very easily made. Or, for Dried Corn Fritters., grate corn as above and dry on plates so as to preserve all the juice, as in recipe for drying corn, or better on the evaporator hereafter described. To make, soak the grated corn overnight in water or milk, and add eggs and crackers as above. These are as delicious as when made from raw corn, and well repay the trouble of drying the corn. Corn Meal Fritters. — Beat and strain the yolks of four eggs ; add one tablespoon each sugar and melted butter, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon soda dissolved in hot water, a pint each milk and best corn meal, (sugar may be omitted). Beat hard five minutes and stir in the whipped whites of the eggs and a half cup flour into which a teaspoon cream tartar has been sifted. Beat again thoroughly, adding more milk if necessary to make it drop from the spoon ; fry, drain and serve at once with a hard sauce. Cream Fritters. — Whip the whites of five eggs ana stir into one cup cream, add two full cups flour, a saltspoon nutmeg, a pinch of salt, and teaspoon baking powder. Beat hard two 294 FEITTERS AND CROQUETTES. minutes, fry by spoonfuls, drain and serve hot on napkin. Eat with jelly sauce. Currant Fritters. — Put a half pint milk into a bowl with two tablespoons flour, which should previously be rubbed smooth with a little cold milk ; stir well together and add four well-beaten eggs, three tablespoons each boiled rice, and fresh or dried curraMs, sugar and nutmeg to taste. Beat the mixture a fcAV minutes, and if not thick enough add a little more boiled rice ; fry by spoonfuls a nice brown, pile on a Avhite napkin, strew sifted sugar over and serve very hot with a garnish of sliced lemon. Egg Plant Fritters. — Take a large-sized egg plant, leave on stem and skin and boil in porcelain kettle until very soft, just so that it can be taken out with the aid of a fork or spoon ; take off all the skin and mash very fine in an earthen bowl. When cold add teaspoon salt, plenty of pepper, two tablespoons flour, a half cup cream or milk and three eggs. Have fat hot, drop in batter as for any fritters and brown nicely on each side. Grape Fritters. — Cup flour, yolks of two eggs, two tablespoons salad oil, pinch each spice and salt, and enough cold water to make a batter about like sponge cake. When mixed smoothly add whites of eggs beaten to stiff froth. Dip little clusters of grapes in the batter and fry in smoking hot fat. Take up, drain, dust with pow- dered sugar, and serve either hot or cold as a dessert. Hominy Fritters. — Mix Avell one pint boiled hominy, one gill cream, two tablespoons corn starch, two eggs, half teaspoon baking powder, saltspoon salt. If too stiff add a little more cream or milk. Fry, drain and dust as above, and serve Avith any sauce liked. Italian Fritters. — With a wooden spatula stir rapidly into one pound sifted flour one and a half pints boiling Avatcr. Add three or four eggs, one at a time, and beat well in, thus forming a very delicate batter paste. Press this through a syringe or confec- tioners' bag into hot lard, and as soon as a bright yellow color the}" are done. Drain in colander, pile on a dish and powder plenti- fully Avith fine sugar. This is a favorite dish in Italy, called there "cinci." May be served Avith a sauce if liked. Lemon Fritters. — Three eggs, one pint flour, three-fourths tea- cup powdered sugar ; beat the yolks Avell, add flour and enough milk — about a gill — to make a stiff batter; beat the Avhitcs stiff Avith the sugar, the juice of a lemon and some of the yelloAV peel grated ofi", or teaspoon extract of lemon, and beat into the batter ju.st before frying. Lobster Fritters. — Put one lobster in tAvo quarts boiling Avater with a half cup salt, and boil tAventy-five minutes ; Avhen cold FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 295 remove the meat and fat and cut into small slices ; put into a sauce- pan a tablespoon each butter and flour, a cup cream, little celery, salt, thyme, white pepper, and a saltspoon parsley ; let boil two minutes and add yolks four eggs and the lobster ; mix and set back to simmer five minutes ; pour it out on a well greased dish and set away to get firm by cooling ; cut into slices, dip into fritter batter, (see preface) and fry as directed. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs of parsley, quite dry, fried in lard fifteen seconds. Mince Meat Fritters. — Mix half pound (about one pint) mince meat, four tablespoons bread-crumbs or one tablespoon flour, two eggs -and juice of half a lemon ; beat well together and fry as directed. Nutmeg Fritters. — One cup sugar, butter size of hickory nut, one and a half cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda and a little nut- meg. Stir in flour till thick as fruit cake ; drop a teaspoon at a time in hot fat. Very nice for breakfast with coffee. Orange Fritters. — Make a nice light batter with one pint flour, tablespoon butter, half saltspoon salt, two eggs and sufficient milk to make it proper consistency ; peel oranges, remove as much of the white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces without breaking the thin skin, unless necessary to remove pips ; dip each piece of orange in the batter, drop in hot fat, and fry a del- icate brown. Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar. Or, cut oranges in slices across, take out all seeds, dip slices in batter, fry and serve as above. yster Fritters. — Drain one dozen oysters and dry thoroughly in a towel ; make a batter of two cups flour, yolk of one egg, table- spoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, dust of cayenne, Avell-beaten white, chopped oysters, and sufficient oyster liquor to make a batter thick enough to drop from spoon. Or, leave oysters whole and dip singly in batter, using a fork or skewer, and fry. For latter way have batter thicker than if chopped oysters are used. One cup milk may be substituted for the liquor, and some add half teaspoon lemon juice. Parsnip Fritters. — One cup dry mashed parsnip, tablespoon each butter and flour, an egg, and salt and pepper. Stir all together ; drop by spoonfuls and fry as directed. Peach Fritters. — (With yeast.) Sift a quart flour into bowl, add a cup milk and half cup yeast, and set in warm place to rise. This will take five or six hours. Then beat four eggs very light, with two tablespoons each sugar tmd butter and a little salt ; mix with the risen dough and beat thoroughly with wooden spoon. Knead with the hands ; pull off bits of dough about the size of an 296 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. egg, flatten each and put in the center a peach, from which the stone has been taken through a slit in the side ; enclose it in the dough, make into a roll and set in order upon a floured pan for second rising. The balls must not touch and should be light in an hour. Have ready a large kettle or saucepan of hot lard, drop in the balls and fry more slowly than fritters made in the usual way. Drain on hot white paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve hot with rich sauce. These fritters may be made of canned peaches or apricots drained and wiped dry. Pineapple Fritters. — Pare a pineapple with as little waste as possible and cut into rather thin slices ; soak the slices four hours in a lemon syrup, dip into the fritter batter given in preface and fry. Serve quickly, strewn with sifted sugar. A very elegant dish. Potato Fritters. — Boil two potatoes, and beat up lightly with a fork — do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat yolks of four eggs Avell, add two tablespoons each cream and orange juice, two-thirds tablespoon lemon juice and half teaspoon grated nutmeg and beat all together for at least twenty minutes, or until the batter is extremely light ; then add well frothed whites of three eggs and fry as directed. Serve with the following hot sauce : Four tablespoons orange juice and half pint l)oiling water, mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, warmed together and sweetened with white sugar. Or scoop out the insides of four nicely baked potatoes and make as above, using four tablespoons cream and adding two of powdered sugar ; flavor with juice of a lemon and half the grated peel, or a half teaspoon vanilla. Queen Fritters. — Put three heaping tablespoons flour into a bowl and pour over it enough boiling water to make a stiff paste, stirring and beating well to prevent lumps. Let cool, break into it (without beating) yolks of four eggs and whites of two, and stir and beat all well together ; drop ])y dessertspoonfuls, and fry a light brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in be- tween the fritters. Excellent for a hasty addition to dinner, when a guest appears unexpectedly ; easily and quickly made, and always a favorite. Rice Fritters. — Boil one cup rice in one pint milk until soft ; add yolks of three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, two taljlespoons each butter and flour ; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth ; drop in spoonfuls and fry a light brown. Serve with sweetened cream or lemon sauce. To make nice fritters with marmalade cook seven tablespoons rice in a quart milk, with six tablespoons sugar and one of butter, over a slow fire until perfectly tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour ; then strain FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 297 away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it six table- spoons orange marmalade and four well-beaten eggs ; stir over the fire until the eggs are set ; then spread mixture about half an inch thick, or rather thicker, on plate or board. When perfectly cold, cut into long strips, dip in batter and fry a nice brown. Dish on a white doily, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. Another excellent way is to soak a cup rice, three hours in enough warm water to cover well ; then put it into a farina-kettle, set in an outer vessel of hot water, and simmer until dry. Add two cups milk and cook until it is all absorbed. Stir in one tablespoon butter and take from fire. Beat three eggs very light with three tablespoons sugar, and when the mixture is cold stir them in with a flavoring of nut- meg and a little salt. Make into round flat cakes. Place in the middle of each two or three raisins which have been ''plumped" in boiling water, roll the cake into a ball enclosing the raisins, flour well and fry in hot fat. Serve on a napkin, with sugar and cinna- mon sifted over. Eat with sweetened cream, hot or cold. Or scald nine tablespoons rice and boil it in just enough milk to keep rather thick. When partially cooled mix with it a lump of butter, four tablespoons grated cheese and yolks of three eggs. Season to taste, drop into hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a nice brown. Arrange in a circle on a napkin lapping over one another and serve. Rye Fritters. — Two eggs, three cups flour, one cup rye-meal, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one cup sugar, a little salt ; mix with milk or water, drop from a spoon into hot lard. Sandwich Fritters. — Cut thin slices of bread and butter them ; spread half with any jam that may be preferred, and cover with the other slices ; slightly press together, and cut in square, long, or round pieces. Dip in a batter, prepared as in preface, and fry in hot fat for about ten minutes ; drain and sprinkle over with sifted sugar, and serve. Snow Fritters. — The success of these depends upon using snow that has just fallen and is full of bubbles of air, which makes them light. Have the fat hot, and make a thick batter of a pint milk, level teaspoon salt, and sifted flour to make thick enough so that when dropped the batter will cling for a moment to the spoon ; when the fat begins to smoke, stir into the batter very quickly a cup newly fallen snow and fry at once by tablespoonfuls. If the batter stands after snow is added the fritters Avill not be light, because the air will soon escape from the batter. Serve with syrup, sugar and butter, or any sauce preferred. Some add an egg and an apple chopoed fine. Walnut Fritters. — Take two-inch squares of baked "walnuts" rolled very thin, marinade in orange syrup and dip in batter and fry. 298 FRITTERS AXD CROQUETTES. Vanities. — Beat two eggs, stir in pinch salt and a half teaspoon rose-water, add sifted flour till just thick enough to roll out, cut with a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in hot fat. Sift powdered sugar on them while hot, and when cool put a tea-spoon jelly in the center of each one. Nice for tea or dessert. Croquettes. To make croquettes successfully has been said to require both painstaking and practice, but by observing the directions given here and in the recipes that follow, one who has never l^efore attempted these dainties may, with a few odds and ends from the V)reakfast or dinner table, create surprisingly tempting dishes, both to the eye and the palate. All ingredients must be thoroughly mixed ; when meat is used all bits of bone, gristle, skin and fat must be carefully removed and meat chopped very fine, and the whole mixture made as moist as can be handled. Very dry or tough meat is not suitable for croquettes ; tender, roasted pieces give the best flavor. When the mixture is to be cooked it is only necessary to thoroughly heat through, and it must then stand until cold before shaping. If too moist add a little cracker-dust or crumbs, if too dry a little cream or yolk of an egg. Use white pepper for seasoning. Croquettes may be made into flat, oval, pear or egg shapes, balls and rolls, of which the latter are most easily made, but the pear shape is the handsomest; when fried and ready to serve make an incision in the stalk end and insert a piece of citron an eighth of an inch square and about an inch long for a stem, and a clove for the blossom ; great care Croquettes. IS Tcquircd in shaping and frying. When shaped as rolls they should be about three inches long, and are made by taking the desired (juantity of the mixture and rolling it very gently on a l)oard sprinkled lightly Avith fine bread-crumbs or cracker-dust. Handle very carefully, slightly flouring the hands, as the slightest pressure will break them. Let them lie on the CROQUETTES. 299 board until all are finished, when if an}'' have flattened they must be rolled into form again. When croquettes are shaped have ready some well-beaten eggs in a soup plate or shallow dish — the number will of course depend upon the number of croquettes — and some finely rolled bread or cracker-crumbs or cracker-dust on a board, or sheet of clean brown paper. Save all bits of bread for such pur- poses, and prepare by drying in the oven and rolling very Une^ as fine as possible, keeping in a covered box, tin can or glass jar, or in a closely tied paper sack, in dry place. Cracker-dust may be bought at almost any grocery. The croquettes may be single- breaded, double-breaded or doublo-egg-breaded, according to the amount of moisture they contain, and must always be so thoroughly encased in the egg and crumbs that the fat may not penetrate them. To Single-hread simply coat with the beaten egg first (either by dipping the croquettes into it or brushing them over) and then roll them in crumbs, beginning with those that were first egged and proceeding in that order until all are done. Doiible-hreading is rolling them first in the crumbs, then coating with beaten egg, and again rolling in the crumbs. To Double- egg -bread, dip first in egg, then roll in crumbs, dip again into the egg, and roll in crumbs again. The croquettes are very much nicer to let stand fifteen minutes after they are crumbed before egging and breading again, and from a half hour to an hour before frying, which dries the eggs and crumbs thoroughly into a sort of shell. The improvement in appearance and lightness Avill well repay one for the extra time and trouble. When double-egg-breading some think the croquettes much handsomer to roll the last time in rather coarse bread-crumbs, using either cracker-dust or fine crumbs for first breading. It is also recommended to add to the eggs to be used in breading a mixture of oil, water and salt, in the proportion of one tablespoon each oil and water and a little salt. Use either American cooking oil or salad oil. Fry in hot fat or oil, as fritters, a few at a time (a frying basket is very convenient for this purpose), cooking until a rich brown color, which will take a minute or two ; then take up, drain, and serve as directed for fritters. Or they Frv.Qs Basket. ^^^^ ^^ fHcd vn frylug-pau in a little butter or drippings, but are not as nice. In making croquettes after recipes given, any seasoning or flavoring not liked may be omitted and 300 CROQUETTES. another substituted for it or not as preferred. Croquettes may be fried without breading if making in a hurry, by simply rolling in flour, without using the eggs, but the result will not be so satisfac- tory or pleasing. A pretty breakfast dish may be made of croquettes of fish, lobster, fowl or meat in the shape of hen's eggs heaped upon a dish and surrounded by very thin strips of fried potato, arranged to look as much as possible like straw, and garnished with croutons of bread. Corn fritters and any good meat croquettes are . nice served together at tea or luncheon on same platter, neatly arranged heaps of fritters on one end of platter and croquettes on the other, placing two fritters and two croquettes upon each plate. Bread Croquettes. — Cut the crust from a stale loaf of bread or rolls, and cut into balls, squares, circles, diamonds, etc. Soak them in a shallow dish containing a cup milk with two teaspoons sugar and a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg (some add a beaten egg), turning occasionally until the whole is absorbed ; or, soak them in a thin custard flavored with lemon-zest, vanilla or rose-water. Do not let them become moist enough to break. Bread and fry as dii'ected in preface, and serve with lemon sauce. ' '' Chichen Croquettes. — Take cold minced chicken and bread crumbs in the proportion of one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, and one egg beaten light to each cup of meat, with gravy enough to moisten the crumbs and chicken — or, if there is no gravy, a little drawn butter or cream; add pepper, salt and chopped parsiey to taste, and mix with meat the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine with a spoon. Mix all into a paste, shape into balls with floured hands, double-bread them and drop into hot lard. Drain and serve in a heated dish, garnished with cresses or parsley. Mashed potato may be used instead of bread-crumbs, taking two- thirds as much potato as meat.; Or, fry three shallots in butter, add half pint chopped chicken, dredge in teaspoon flour, season with pepper,' salt, mace, pounded .sugar, and add sufiicient Avhite sauce to moisten it; stir in yolks of two well-beaten eggs, and cool. Then make mixture up in balls, fjingle-bread and fry a nice brown. Theiy may be served on top of border of mashed potatoes with gravy or sauce in center. ; Oivobop cold, cliicken with a few slices ham^ fat oi^.lean, adtVhtHlf .-^'l-'in^^ciii brpq,d-crun^bs, &e£^son with salt and pt^p|:iier^a liitle nutrn^g, teas^^ each made mustard and (k«^Jj an'd'^tablesp^y6h^%utier}'%i$i''dtid'wd^^ Wei5"^0gether, make CROQTTETTES. 301 into cakes, single-bread and fry ; or another good proportion is a full pint cooked and finely chopped chicken, one tablespoon each flour and salt, half teaspoon each pepper and onion juice, one cup cream or chicken stock, and three tablespoons butter. Boil the cream or stock, add chicken and seasoning and boil two minutes ; stir in two well-beaten eggs and take from fire immediately. When cold, shape, roll in crumbs and fry. Finely chopped onion is often used instead of onion juice, and chopped mushrooms are a nice addition. Chopped parsley, thyme, sage, mace, nutmeg, or any seasoning liked, may be employed, and some prefer cracker-dust to bread-crumbs. The meat of any fowl may be used, and Veal, Mutton and Ham Croquettes are make in same way, or half veal and half ham is a nice mixture. Ham and chicken mixed is also good. For a more elaborate dish make the Croquettes vjith TruMes : Cut cold roast chicken into tiny squares ; take same quantity of truffles, diced, and mix all with some thick, well- seasoned white sauce, into which has been stirred some cliopped mushrooms, onions, and yolks of two eggs. Make into balls or any shape fancied, single-bread and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Chicken Croquettes with Brains. — Chop fine the meat of one cold boiled chicken and add to it the finely chopped meat of two or three calves' brains, first soaking them in cold salted water one hour, then skinning and placing in cold salted water and a little vinegar and boiling ten to fifteen minutes ; season the mixture with salt, pepper, finely-chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a little grated lemon-peel, and add three-quarters cup butter. If too stiff add a little cream. The softer and more creamy they are the better — just so they will hold together ; shape, double-egg-bread and fry. Serve with tomato sauce with sliced mushrooms; or, for a Triple Cro- quette, prepare as above half a chicken, one sweet-bread boiled till tender, and one brain, and to the finely-chopped mixture add a well-beaten egg, teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Put in stewpan half pint cream and add one tablespoon corn-starch, first mixed smoothly with a little of the cream, then add the chopped and seasoned mixture and stir till it bubbles. Take off, and when cold shape and double-egg-bread; fry in basket as directed in preface. Chicken Croquettes with Sweetbreads. — Take the white meat of a chicken and pound it to a paste with a large boiled sweetbread freed from sinews ; beat one egg with a teaspoon flour and four tablespoons cream, and add, with salt and pepper, mixing all well together ; put in a pan and simmer just enough to absorb part of the moisture, stirring constantly ; turn out on flat dish and set in ice-box to become cold and firm, then roll into small neat shapes of cones, rolls or balls, handling carefully, and fry a delicate brown. Some add a little grated nutmeg. Or, for a Royal Sweetbreaa, stir 302 CROQUETTES. two tablespoons butter and one of flour in stewpan over fire ; when it bubbles add little by little one pint cream, then the finely-chopped meat from two sweetbreads soaked five minutes in boiling water, and one boiled chicken, dark and white meat, seasoned with one tablespoon each onion juice (or half teaspoon grated onion) and chopped parsley, one teas])oon mace, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir till well heated, take from fire, add lemon juice and let cool. ^^'hen cold roll into shape with fine cracker-ci'umbs and donble-egg- bread as directed, letting them stand till dry after rolling in cracker-crumbs first time, and then using rather coarse bread- crumbs for last rolling. Or, for Croquettes lo'dh Bread Crumbs, take after chicken and sweetbreads are finely chopped and seasoned as above (witliout the lemon juice) an equal cjuantity of fine bread- crumbs. Place in stewpan as much broth from boiled chicken (liaving saved it all) as will moisten the crumbs, in proportion of about half pint to a pint crum})s ; add four tal)lespoons cream and two of Initter; when boiling add crumbs till they adhere to spoon. Mix with meat and when cool add two well-beaten eggs and njold into croquettes ; double-bread and fry as above. Crah Croquettes. — Boil two crabs fifteen minutes, remove the meat from the shells and chop it coarsely. Melt three tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir into it six tablespoons Hour and add to this by degrees- a half pint milk. When this is brought to the boiling ])oint let it boil for two minutes and take from fire. Throw into the saucepan the meat from the crabs, add to the mixture one grain cayenne, half teaspoon pei>per, teaspoon each anchovy anuce and salt, and wlien thoroughly mixed turn it out upon a plate and let cool. When quite cold form into small rolls three inches in length, single-bread and fry ; serve on a folded napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. Cream Croquettes. — Put stick cinnamon one inch long in pint new milk in custard kettle. AMien hot stir in three tablespoons sugar, two of corn-starch and one of flour," the two latter rubbed smooth with two or three additional tablespoons cold milk; let cook ten or fifteen minutes, stir in beaten yolks of three eggs, take out cinnamon and place inner kettle on table and stir in half tablespoon butter and half teaspoon vanilla. Pour on a buttered platter till one-half inch high ; when cold cut in two-inch squares, carefully double-bread with cracker-crumbs, having the beaten egg slightly sweetened. Fry as directed and ])lace on papered pan in oven for five minutes to drain and soften the croquettes. Serve hot on a hot dish — this is imperative — first sprinkling with sugar. A richer cream may be made by using three tablespoons butter, two whole eggs, and four additional yolks. Either is simply delicious. Hominy Croquettes. — Pour one and a half pints l)oiling Avater on a half pint hominy, stir, cover and boil slowly, stirring occasion- CROQUETTES. 803 ally for twenty minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the hominy rather stiflF; add one and a half gills milk and teaspoon salt, stir thoroughly, cover and let stand ten minutes, cooking again if necessary, very slowly ; it should be like a tolerably thick batter, but not too thick to drop. Beat in a tablespoon butter and pour the whole into a shallow pan to cool — if allowed to get cold it will be too stilT. Make into balls the size of an egg, single-bread and fry. This quantity should make fifteen croquettes. Or, to make with cold hominy, work two tablespoons melted butter with two cups cold l)oiled hominy, add two well-beaten eggs and a pinch of salt, beat thoroughly and make into balls or rolls. Some add a cup milk by degrees and two teaspoons sugar. Single-bread them and fry. Serve with syrup or a sweet sauce. Lobster Croquettes. — Finely chop the meat of a lobster, work in two tablespoons butter — melted, but not hot — then a teaspoon each anchovy sauce and lemon juice, a little salt, pepper, mace and lemon peel, two raw eggs, and lastly a half cup bread-crumbs. Make into egg shapes, single-bread them and fry quickly. Drain thoroughly and serve very hot. These croquettes are delicious. The dish should be garnished with slices of lemon. Pass milk or cream crackers with them. Meat Croquettes. — Take cold chicken, or roast or boiled beef or veal, mince very fine, moisten with cold gravy if at hand, or moisten well, and add one egg, season with pepper, salt, and an onion, or sage ; make into small eakes or rolls, single-bread, and ixy in lard and butter. One cup fresh boiled rice may be added before making into cakes. Or, take one-quarter as much cold potato, either mashed or chopped and pounded fine, as cold cooked beef or meat M. at cronuettcs. of auv klud, clioppcd very fine, Avith gravy or cream enough to moisten, add one beaten egg and pepper and salt to taste, with a pinch of marjoram ; mix, season, and form into balls. Double-bread them and fry in hot lard to delicate brown. Drain and serve hot. Bread-crumbs may be used instead of potato, using half and half, or any proportion Avished ; or one-third meat, potatoes and bread-crumbs. , For Fresh Meat Croquettes take any fresh meat, beef, veal or mutton, and grind through a small meat cutter, or chop and pound very thoroughly to a jelly, then add quarter as much either bread-crumbs or potatoes ; add egg, etc., and finish as above. Or, prepare meat as above, add pepper and salt, and one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, moisten with a little boiled milk that has cooled, add one egg, a little chopped onion, and single-bread and fry in a little butter, or immerse in hot fat. Oyster Croquettes. — Take half pint each raw oysters and cooked veal, a heaping tablespoon butter, three of cracker-crumbs, 304 CROQUETTES. yolks of two eggs, one tablespoon onion juice ; chop oysters and veal very fine, soak the crackers in oyster-liquor, and then mix all the ingredients and shape, single-bread in cracker-dust and fry. The butter should be softened before mixing. Parsnip Croquettes. — Boil six parsnips till tender ; when cold grate and mix with two eggs, season and add flour, and shape int<» balls, single-bread or not, and fry by immersion; or fry plainly in a little oil, drippings or lard. Potato Croquettes. — Two cups cold mashed potatoes, two well- beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, a teaspoon fine bread- crumbs, salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley, or other seasoning to taste. Mix well, make into balls, single-bread and fry. Or, melt butter in saucepan, add two tablespoons milk, let boil ; then add potatoes first pressed through sieve, stir well together till potatoes are very hot; take from fire, add pepper, salt and cayenne, drop in yolks of two eggs, and stir till the heat of potato dries the egg ; let cool and roll into small balls with a little flour to prevent sticking to hands, and then single-bread, using the whites of the two eggs. The yolks give the croquettes a rich yellow color; if whites were added to croquettes they would be difficult to form into balls and the color would not be so fine. Rice Croquettes. — Put three-fourths pound of rice over the fire in a quart milk and simmer slowly twenty minutes ; remove from fire, stir in l)oaten yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon lemon juice, saltspoon salt, and three ta1)lespoons sugar; beat all thoroughly together, turn into a bowl and let stand until cool, then make into balls ; beat the whites of two eggs until quite light but not to a firm froth, dip the balls into this, then into fine bread-crumbs and fry. Serve thickly sprinkled with sugar. Or, take one large cup cooked, rice, half cup milk, one egg, one tablespoon each sugar ana butter, half a teasi)oon salt, slight grating of nutmeg. Put milk on to boil, and add rice and seasoning. When it boils up, add the eg^, well beaten, stir one minute, then take off and cool. When cold, shai)e, single-bread, fry, and serve very hot. Any flavoring can be substituted for the nutmeg. For nic.e croquettes without eggs put a quarter of a pound of Carolina "head" rice — or nine tablespoons — a pint milk, three tablespoons powdered sugar, butter size of a walnut, and a teaspoon extract vanilla into a saucepan and simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be cooked until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mold into cro- (|uettes. Beat thoroughly three or four minutes ; turn out on a flat tin, and when cold and stiff form into balls, single-bread them and fry. A very excellent reci]>e for croquettes when one has to prepare them hastily and has n(»t time to bread them, is one cup cold boiled rice, a teaspoon each sugar and melted butter, half teaspoon salt, CROQUETTES. 305 one egg beaten light, eight crackers rolled fine, and a little sweet milk ; mix all well together, make into oval cakes and fry in butter till a nice yellow brown. Syrup, or a nice sweet sauce, should be served with rice croquettes. Rice Ball Croquettes. — Boil a half pound rice — or eighteen tablespoons — in a quart stock, broth or Avater very gently for half an hour, add three tablespoons butter and simmer until quite dry and soft. When cold make into balls and fill with the chopped meat of a cold fowl, mixed with six tablespoons each white sauce and broth, Avhich should be rather thick ; cover over with rice, single-bread them and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream may be stirred into the rice, if liked, before it cools. Or, for a dessert dish, boil the rice in milk, with three or four table- spoons sugar, flavor with lemon peel, vanilla or bitter almonds, and make into balls with a small piece of jelly or jam in the center of each, bread them and fry. Salsify Croquettes. — Wash, scrape and boil the salsify till tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne and lemon juice ; mix ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth paste, and set dish in ice-box to get cold ; then shape it into small cakes or cones, single-bread and fry crisp and brown. Venison Croquettes. — Three-fourths pint chopped venison, one- fourth pint stale bread, crumbed fine, one cup gravy thickened with browned flour, one teaspoon jelly, a pinch of mace, very little grated lemon peel, and chopped parsley to taste. Stir the jelly venison'rroqoKt^ into the gravy with the seasoning ; with this mix the meat and crumbs, add the beaten egg, make into rolls, single-bread them and fry. Mutton Croquettes are nice made same way. 306 FRUIT. FRUIT. Fruit is very generally and erroneously regarded as a luxury rather than as a valuable, even necessary, article of food, and many housekeepers who now stint this supply for economy's sake would do better to banish rich pastry entirely from their tables and substitute instead an abundance of fruit. Acid fruits furnish oxygen in abundance, and consequently assist in the assimilation of the carbonaceous elements of food. If the diet is largely made up of fats, sweets and starchy foods, which are mostly carbon, a great deal of oxygen is needed to carry on the necessary chemical combustion, and when this is not obtained either by out-of-door exercise or the free consumption of fruit, headaches and biliousness result, ultimately followed by more serious disorders, such as neuralgia, rheumatism, fevers and inflammatory diseases. So that for persons engaged in sedentary pursuits it is evident that fruit is as necessary as bread and meat. The hydroganic acid found in most northern fruits not only stimulates digestion, but is itself a nerve food ; peaches, apricots, apples and cherries abound in this acid, retaining it in a large degree when dried, and it is contained also in almonds, raisins and peach pits, which eaten after meals often aid digestion. One or two peach pits eaten regularly thus have been known to effect permanent cures of the nervous forms of indigestion, and if their value in this respect were generally known they would not be so universally wasted. A prominent physician has suggested that "Feast on Fruit Freely," be hung as a motto in every dining room and taught to every person. Fruit should be eaten at meals instead of between meals, and no breakfast, especially, FRUIT. 307 should be made without it. All fruits intended for immediate eating should be gathered before ten o'clock in summer in order to obtain their best flavor. And if the market is to be depended upon the utmost care should be exercised in its selection. California and Florida oranges are the best, a diff"erence of opin- ion existing among fruit connoisseurs as to the comparative merits of the two, which rival each other so closely that there is perhaps but little choice. The only really desirable lemons, aside from a few from River- side, California, are the Messinas, Palermos and Sicilys, all foreign importations, ranking in the order named. Choose the heavy fruit, with clean, smooth, thin skin, of a bright yellow color, and the medium sized lemon, known among dealers as the "360" is the best. The large lemons are more showy and expensive but are apt to be dry. The banana is the most nutritious of all fruits, and is becoming more popular every year. The plantain is a tropical fruit of the banana species, of the same shape and color but much larger — about two feet long and three inches in diameter — is of a coarse fibre and is not palatable raw, but very good fried or baked. It is considered very nutritious and wholesome, and is one of the main products of Honduras. The guava is a fruit not generally known in the north, though quite a demand exists in southern markets. There are several varieties of this fruit, some of which are natives of Asia, some of America, and some are common to both. The best of these is the white guava, which is abundant in the West Indies ; is rather larger than a hen's egg, smooth, yellow and of a peculiar smell. The pulp is of a very agreeable taste, sweet and aromatic, and is used at dessert and preserved. Gauva jelly comes from the "West Indies, is highly esteemed, and excellent for giving strength and tone to one after a long illness or when digestion is impaired. Pineapples when well matured are delicious and wholesome, and may be had at almost any season. Of the smaller domestic fruits strawberries may be had from the last of April until into July. The Crescent is the best variety for table use. Cherries ripen in June and the best table varieties are the Oxheart, Whiteheart and Blackheart. The sweet "ground cherry," as it is called, is a fruit but Httle known in market though 308 FRUIT. it has been successfully grown in private gardens for many years. It is the fruit of a plant which in its general appearance, habits and growth resembles the tomato planl The fruit is round as a cherry, and about three-fourths of an inch in diameter when taken out of the husk in which it is enclosed. When ripe the fruit falls from the plant and is better to lie in the husk awhile, when it becomes very sweet. It makes most excellent pies, sauce or preserves, and requires very little sweetening. When dried with a little sugar it is equal to raisins for many purposes. It begins to blossom the last of July, and, like the tomato, continues to blossom, set and ripen till killed by the frost. Currants include red, white and black varieties, the best of which are known as Cherry, Fay's Prolific, White Dutch, and White Grape, and clioice fruit can be obtained in almost any market during July. The ripening season begins in June, and the fruit may be had until into August. Of red rasp- berries theCuthbert is the finest of any yet known, though excellent fruit is plentiful in its sen son, which is from the middle of June to the middle of August. White raspberries are scarce and highly prized. Fine black raspberries, or "black-caps," are common everywhere in this country, as are also blackberries, of which the Lawton ranks the highest. Gooseberries are not so much used fresh at table as they should be, as when perfectly ripe they make a delicious dessert. There are a number of varieties, red, yellow, green and white, and may be had from May till August. What are known as whortleberries and huckleberries are often confounded with blueberries, which are much superior though of the same species. The former have larger seeds and not so fine flavor as the latter, and are not so desirable for any purpose. Blueberries make a delicious dessert sprinkled with ice and sugar and served with cream as any other fruit. Every section has its favorite varieties of melons — the earliest shipments coming from the gulf coast islands about June 1st — any of which make a wholesome addition to breakfast or dessert. The nutmeg melons are very choice and have long ranked highest in market, but the Japan melon is a later and still more perfect production. It has a rough green rind, and when well ripened, a smooth, yellow pulp, sweet and luscious. Watermelons are plenty and cheap everywhere. FRUIT. 309 Of the delicious peach only the freestones are suitable for table use when raw, but the "clings" are very fine in compotes, stews, etc. The vegetable or vine i:>each is another fruit but littl« known, though very desirable. It grows on a vine similar to a muskmelon vine, and ripens in August. It is of about the size of a large peach, yellow when ripe, and when peeled, halved and the seeds taken out, looks very much like a peach treated in the same manner ; it makes very nice pies, and for sweet pickles and pre- serves is unsurpassed. Apricots and nectarines are fruits similar in character to the peach, without its rough, fuzzy coat, and not to be compared with it in lusciousness and fine flavor. Pears may be obtained from the middle of July until well into the winter, the Bartlett being the choicest and the Winter Nellis being the best keeper. The fine-grained pears are best for eating. There are several good varieties of plums, the California and Oregon fruit, sweet, large and fine flavored, leading. The apple is, however, the staple American fruit, and no other is grown to such perfection or can be so easily preserved through the winter. This fruit is palatable and nutritious, easily digested when perfectly ripe, so common as to be found on the humblest tables, and may be prepared in a great diversity of ways. The albuminous fruits, such as cocoa-nuts, filberts, almonds, hickory nuts, etc., are really seeds, and contain a large proportion of nutritive matter. Cocoa-nuts should be bought cautiously in summer, heat being likely to sour the milk. The Jordan sweet almond is the best, the Tarragon ranking next, and the California Soft Shell being third. The kernels of the sweet almonds are served in either a green or a ripe state at dessert, but the bitter almonds are little used and only in cookery. The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table affords play for the most cultivated taste and not a little real inventive genius. Melons, oranges, and indeed all kinds of fruits, are appropriate breakfast dishes, and a center piece of mixed fruits furnishes a delicious dessert, and is an indisi^ensable orna- ,,..j!.-r.f. ment to an elegant dinner- ^ .i-i i-ii'; ° table. Large fruits, or large bunches of fruits are required, and that shown in cut is composed of pears, peaches, apricots, and 310 FRUIT. plums as a kind of raised ground-work, with a magnificent bunch of royal-purple grapes on top. The colors of the fruits should blend harmoniously and the effect should be fresh and apparently un- studied, but they should be firmly placed so that when the dish is moved there will be no danger of an avalanche. Green leaves are well-nigh indispensable to the preparation of fresh fruit for dessert, but there should be just enough and no more; a judicious peep of one here and another there, a tuft of green on this side and on that is all that is needed. Too many leaves will utterly spoil the effect and render it inartistic. This garnishing Avith foliage needs especial attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-colored fruits with nicely arranged leaves is very charming. The garnish/)^/' excellence for des- sert is the ice-plant, its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvelous effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense of cool- ness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry and vine-leaves have a pleasing effect ; and for winter desserts the bay, Cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. Flowers may be very gracefully and artistically combined with fruits, and a pyramid of grapes made up of Malagas, Delawares and Concords makes a showy center piece and a delicious dessert. Rosy-cheeked apples in a firm row for a base, and fine yellow pears piled carelessly on top, stems upward, with a green leaf here and there,make a pretty dish. Apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes hanging from the border of the dish in a neglige sort of manner, with a large bunch of grapes lying on top of the apples. Strawberries and black raspberries in alternate rows, separated by a light fringe of green leaves, in cone-like form, is another attractive dish. Peaches and apricots mingle prettily with green leaves, and plums and green gages set one another off advantageously with a judicious addition of leaves. Attractive methods of serving melons and small fruits nre given in recipes that follow. Almonds and raisins are served together, the almonds being first blanched, and then thrown in among the fruit. Serve large nuts of various kinds together, a sufficient portion for the dessert cut open or cracked, and all care- fully arranged in a pyramid. Nuts of any kind should be so cracked and heaped up. Dates and figs may be put together in a variety of ways, the two colors giving a distinct character, and look well with a few leaves and tufts here and there. Pine-apples are thought to FRUIT. 311 be much more delicious if sliced and sprinkled with sugar, some time before serving, but if wished for a more ornamental dish they should be cut as illustrated, and served with a border of oranges and cherries or grapes, with the tuft in the top and a few green leaves scattered about. A pin-eapple in the cen- Pmeappk. ter of a dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colors, mixed with pears or rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with a due regard to color, have a good effect. Frozen fruits should stand an hour or so after freezing, and in adding whipped cream beat it in thoroughly with a wooden spoon or paddle. Fruit creams are very elegant desserts, and are made by adding double the quantity of cream to the fruit pulp, which is obtained by j^assing through a puree sieve. Whip together, sweeten to taste, and serve in glasses with whipped cream on top. To mold fruits, cook slowly with sufficient sugar to form a jelly — pound for pound — and turn into molds. Or to more perfectly preserve the form of the fruit make a jelly of a little of the fruit juice and water, stir in the cooked fruit when both are nearly cold, and turn into molds. One of the most valuable uses of apples is to employ them in conjunction with other fruit — either to ameliorate the harshness of damsons or add to the flavor of blackberries, and they are cooked also Avith quinces, green gages, pineapples, apricots and with rasp- berry or currant preserves. When used with the larger fruits choose apples of same size if possible, and cut in same shaped pieces or slices. An apple-corer, a cheap tin tube, made by any tinner, is indispensable in preparing Apple coiers applcs for cooklug. They are made in two sizes, one for crab-apples and the other for larger varieties. Rhubarb or pieplant can be mixed with any kind of fruit, half and half, and in a short time will taste exactly like the fruit with which it is mixed. Compotes of the light-fleshed fruits, such as pears, peaches, apples, etc., may be handsomely colored by adding a little currant jelly or juice, a little water from sliced boiled beets, or a few drops of cochineal coloring. The syrups for compotes should boil until a little cooled in a saucer will form a jelly. When cream is served with fruit it is always much nicer whipped. A covered jar or bean- pot is much the best utensil for baking fruit, confining the steam 312 FRUIT. and requiring little or no water ; the action of the more gentle and uniform heat leaves it in better form, and tlie syrup is clearer. In peeling fruit the use of the paring knife with a guard, which prevents the removal of any but a thin skin, will not only effect *""""" '^'''"' a saving, but as in most fruits the best part lies nearest the rind will also insure a better llavor. Sliced fruits or berries are more attractive and i)alatable sprhiklcd with sugar about an hour before serving, and tlien with poundi-d ice just before sending to the table. "When berries are left, scald for a few minutes ; too much cooking spoils the flavor. Some think many of the sour berries are im- proved by sUghtlij cooking them with a little sugar before serving. If a part of the berries are badly bruised, gritty, etc. (but not sour or bitter), scald and drain them through a fine sieve without press- ing them. Sweeten the juice and serve as a dressing for puddings, shortcakes, etc., or can for Avinter use. In using molds for fruits etc., dip in cold water before filling. Apples. — The varieties are almost innumerable, every section having its preferred kinds, though there are some general favorites, among them the following ; Early Harvests, Red Streaks, Golden Pipl)ins, Pound Sweets, Belle Flower, ^laiden Blush, Snow Apples, Winter Pippins, King's, Spitzenberg, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Genitans, Rhode Island Greenings, Roxbury Russets and Wine Saps. The last eight varieties are all excellent keepers, the Wine Sap keeping the longest, and the Rhode Island Greening is a famous pie a])ple, known and used everywhere. The others named are all excellent eating and cooking ai)ples. Select smooth, mellow, fine-flavored ones, wash and wipe dry and serve at dessert heaped in fruit dish with a border of green leaves, or with leaves interspersed. A border of snuill fruits makes a very attractive dish. Baked Ajyples. — Whether plainly or elaborately prepared and served, baked apples form an always acceptable and appropriate dish for breakfast, luncheon, dessert or tea. Sweet ap}ples, wash and cut out the blossoms and stems, and in the stem end put some sugar ; bake till soft, basting occasionally with the juice in the pan ; serve either warm or cold with sweetened cream or milk. Or, bake them entirely whole and without ])aring, pricking with a coarse needle to prevent bursting. Put in baking dish, stems upward, and as they pegin to warm rub over well with butter. Serve either warm or FRUIT. 313 cold thickly strewn with powdered sugar. For Baked Apples with Syntp take half a dozen apples, a half pound of sugar, and little cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg ; peel and core the apples, put them into a deep pie-dish half filled with water, and add above ingre- dients. Bake until fruit is soft and brown and syrup thick. AVhen cold, place the apples in a glass dish, pouring the syrup over. For an extra nice dish, pare and core tart apples, place in pan with a little water, put butter and sugar in cavity, sprinkle cinnamon over, and bake, basting often ; serve with sweetened cream or milk. Or, fill cavities with sugar, a little lemon juice or extract, and some thin slices lemon rind ; sprinkle sugar over the tops, baste often, and serve cold with cream, or with whipped cream, flavored with sugar and essence of lemon, or a boiled custard, poured over so as to nearly conceal them. For Spiced Apjyles pare and core tart apples, fill center with sugar, stick four cloves in the top of each, and bake in deep Pie-plates, with a little water. For Stuffed Ajjples peel and core large sour apples, put in baking tiish with a very little water, and for every half dozen take a cup sugar, half teaspoon mixed ground spices, pinch of salt, two tablespoons each cracker- crumbs and cream, or milk ; mix all well together and fill the core cavities, bake until tender but not broken, basting often with the juice in the dish ; ?erve either hot or cold with sweetened cream, or place apples in center of a large dish with border of whipped cream around. A really elegant dish. Another equally tempting dish is Jellied Pippins, made by putting in baking dish a layer of pippins or other tender, juicy apples, pared and cored but not sliced. Pour over them a syrup of one cup water and a half cup sugar, stirred over the fire until sugar is dissolved ; cover closely and bake slowly until tender. Take from the oven and let cool without uncovering. Pour off syrup and fill core cavities with bright fruit jelly. Boil the syrup until quite thick, and just before sending the apples to table stir into it rich cream well sweetened. Serve with apples. For Blushed A^^ples, peel nice, round, tart apples care- fully, without coring, place in baking dish in one layer, and make a syrup of one pint water and four tablespoons sugar ; add a few cloves, little grated lemon peel and small stick cinnamon ; pour over fruit, cover the dish and bake, being careful not to have them break. "When done lift carefully to a handsome platter, and with a small brush tint delicately on one side with a little beaten currant jelly. Strain the syrup and if more than quarter of a pint ]>h)oe on the stove and boil it to that quantity. When cold add juice of half a lemon and pour around the apples. Another simple way is to quarter and core sour apples without paring, put in baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, add a little water and bake until tender. The proportion of siigar is a gill, and butter half size of an egg, to three pints of apples, and a gill and a half of water. To prepare sweet apples for baking, wash and core but do not pare, 314 FRUIT. though some simply cut out the blossom ends, and when sure fruit is perfectly sound leave entirely whole, pricking to prevent burst- ing. Put them in baking-pan with a little water and let them bake very slowly, basting occasionidly. Tlu'V require several hours, and when done are of a rich, dark brown color ; if taken out too soon they are insipid. Some keep them covered while baking, removing the cover just before apples are done, while others first steam them until quite tender, then put in oven and bake. Serve with whipped or plain sweetened cream or milk. Coddled yipples. — Wash unripe, dark-green, sour apples, and put in porcelain-lined kettle ; cover Avith water, and boil until ten- der ; pour in a sieve and cool, throw away the water that drains off, pulp through the sieve and add sugar to taste. Serve cold, pouring the pulj) in center of dish ; leave it as it falls, without smoothing, and grate a little nutmeg over the top. To be eaten with sugar and cream. Creamed Apples. — Pare and core the fruit and cither scald or bake until soft enough to pulp through a colander or sieve ; sweeten to taste, and fill glasses three-fourths full ; sprinkle each plentifully Avith powdered cinnamon, and when cold put whipped cream over all, heaping until it stands in peaks. Another nice way of serving is to beat well together tAvo cups grated apples, one of sugar, butter size of walnut, two tablespoons Avater, one egg, and a bit of orange or lemon peel ; stir all over the fire about ten minutes, and serA'e either Avarm or cold Avith whipped cream heaped high OA'er the Avhole, or laid upon each saucer. Fried Apples. — Select sour apples and quarter and core Avith- out paring; pre]iare frying-pan by heating and putting in beef drip- pings, lay api)les in skin side down, sprinkle Avith a little ])rown sugar, and Avhen nearly done turn and brown thoroughly. Or, cut in slices across the core, about a ^luarter of an inch tbick, put a little butter or drippings in pan, fill Avith the sliced apples and fry, stirring occasionally to prevent burning; serve in dish sprinkled over Avith sugar. If Avanted extra nice, cut a little thicker and fry like pancakes, turning Avhen broAvn ; as fast as fried take out on a dish, or platter, sprinkle over Avith sugar, and ])lace in OA'en to keep hot, proceeding thus Avith each panful until a suflicient quantity is done, taking care not to break the slices. Serve in layers on the platter, or neatly placed in individual dishes. Or, for Fried Apples with Fork, fry in its dripi^ings and serve arranged in a row around the slices of pork, on platter. A dish of Fried W/iole Ap/>les is prepared thus : Peel very small but ]:)rettily shaped apples, leaving stems on. Put into a saucepan of hot butter, and shake over a FRUIT. 315 brisk fire until a nice brown ; drain, and arrange neatly, stems up, on a thick laj'-er of sugar in a dish, and serve either hot or cold. Transcendent crabs are verv nice cooked thus. Frosted Apples. — Peel pippins, stew in a thin syrup till tender, dip in frothed white of egg, and sift powdered sugar thickly over them ; put in cool oven to harden, and serve in glass dish. Iced Apples. — Peel and core one dozen large apples, fill with sugar and a little butter and nutmeg; bake until nearly done, let cool and remove to anotherplate, if it can be done without breaking them (if not, pour off the juice). Ice tops and sides with cake ice- ing, and brown lightly; serve with cream. Jellied Apples. — Pare, quarter and core nice golden pippins, cut into slices, stew in a little Avater till tender, andbeat to a pulp. Make a thick syrup by boiling a pound and a half white sugar and pint of water for two pounds apples, skim, and put in the apple pulp and juice of three lemons; simmer gently until almost a paste, pour into a w^et mold, and Avhen cold it will turn out a solid jelly. Stick thickly with blanched almonds and serve sur- "'"""^JJuicd Apple with .vimonds. rounded with whipped cream or a thick custard. Or, slice the apples and put in pudding dish with alternate layers of sugar; cover with a plate, put a weight on it and bake in slow oven three hours. Let stand until cold and it will turn out a handsome form of sliced apples imbedded in jelly. Mai'hled Apples. — Peel, halve and core a dozen fine apples, place in a pan thickly spread with butter, powder with sugar and grated lemon peel, and bake in oven. Nearly fill an ornamental mold with apple marmalade, leaving an opening in center; pile the baked apples in a ring upon the marmalade, fill the oj^ening left with custard, and cover the Avhole with orange marmalade. Set mold in pan of hot water to bake, and serve hot. Or, pare and core six or seven apples leaving them Avhole ; boil half pint water and two tablespoons sugar, put in the apples and simmer gently till tender, taking care not to let them break. Cover bottom of dish with apple marmalade or apple butter, flavored with lemon, and place apples on this with piece of butter on each, and a few spoon- fuls apricot jam or marmalade. Set the dish in oven ten minutes, then sprinkle over with powdered sugar and brown with sala- mander. Meringited Apples. — Put one quart water and two large cups granulated sugar in saucepan. Have ten apples pared and cored, and as soon as sugar and water boils, put in as many apples as will 316 FRUIT. cook without crowding. Simmer gently until fruit is cooked through, turning when one side is done. Drain and cool on a dish ; pare, quarter and stew six more apples in one cup water. Turn stewed apples into syrup left from cooking the others, add grated rind and juice of one lemon, and simmer tAventy minutes or until a smooth marmalade is formed, then let cool. Put one quart milk in custard-kettle, reserving half a cup for mixing one tablespoon corn-starch, which stir in when milk is hot, and let cook five minutes. Beat yolks of six eggs and whites of two with half cup powdered sugar; gradually pour boiling milk on this, return to Kettle and cook three minutes, stirring all the time, add salt, turn into bowl, and let cool ; place the whole apples in a mound on dish using the marmalade to fill up the spaces between the apples. Beat four whites to a stiff froth with four tablespoons powdered sugar, spread over apples, and stick one pint blanched almonds into it, cutting each one in two or three strips as in Jellied Apples. Brown slowly in the oven and let cool. Serve with the custard seasoned with lemon poured around the base of meringue. Steamed Apples. — Take smooth, rich-flavored apples, wash and remove cores, leaving fruit whole. Put in a steamer and cook until perfectly tender. The juice in pan may be stewed down and poured over the apples; serve either warm or cold with sugar and cream. Sweet apples are especially nice steamed, and if liked can be lirowned in oven ten or fifteen minutes, and when placed in oven put on each apple a tablespoon of meringue as above. Stewed Ajyples. — Take nice, smooth, sweet apples and remove cores without paring. Put into a covered saucepan with cold water, heat gradually and simmer gently until done. It should take a half day to cook them properly without breaking. Set away to get cold before taking out. Served with sweetened cream they are delicious. If tait apples are to be stewed put on Avith enough water to cover, a half cup vinegar and two cups sugar, and cook as above. For a very nice dish called Apple Transparency, stew six large peeled and cored tart apples slowly until tender, in a syrup of half pound sugar and pint Avater, in Avhich the rind of a lemon has been boiled. When done take out in glass dish and add to the syrup a half i^ackage of gelatine dissolved in a gill cold Avater ; stir until gelatine is melted, strain into a boAvl, stir in six drops cochineal coloring, and Avhen cold cut into cubes and place among the ap})les, interspersing spoonfuls of a meringue of Avhites of tAvo eggs and two tablespoons sugar or whipped cream. Apple Calies. — Boil apples until they Avill i">ulp easily, mix smoothly Avith Avell-beaten eggs, a little cream, some poAvdered Avliitc sugar, and bread-crumbs enough to form into small cakes ; fry as fritters, and Avhen a nice broAvn color take up. ^Mlcn cold squeeze FRUIT. 317 some lemon juice over them, lay upon each a spoonful of thick cream, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. Apple Chocolate. — Boil a pound grated chocolate and six ounces white sugar in a quart new milk ; beat yolks of six eggs and whites of two, and when the chocolate has come to a boil take it from the fire and gradually add the eggs, stirrin^ Avell all the time. Have ready a deep dish with a good layer oi cooked and pulped apples in the bottom, sweetened to taste and seasoned with powdered cinnamon ; pour the chocolate gently over, and place the dish in a saucepan of boiling water. When the cream is set firmly it is done ; sift powdered sugar over it, and glaze with a salamander or red-hot shovel. This preparation is not only very delicious, but exceedingly salutary, on account of the apples being a corrective to the too great richness of the chocolate. Apple Compotes. — Compotes are very easily prepared, and are said to be the most wholesome manner of serving fruits for those who cannot eat raw fruits or the richer preparations requiring a larger proportion of sugar. Fresh fruits are much more delicious served raw, but the compote is far better than ordinary stewed fruit, makes a nice dessert dish that can be hastily prepared, and ajiples are very acceptable served thus. A simple Avay of preparing is to make a syrup of a pound sugar and pint Avater, boiled together fifteen minutes and carefully skimmed. The fruit is then cooked in this syrup, taken out when tender, and the syrup reduced almost to a jelly by longer boiling, and poured over the fruit when cool. To avoid danger of scorching many prefer to first stew the fruit until tender, but not broken, in clear water, then take it out and ;idd sugar to the water and boil to a nice syrup, put in the fruit again and simmer gently until thoroughly penetrated with the syrup, then take out into glass dish ; boil the syrup until very rich and thick, strain it, let cool, and pour it over the fruit. For an excellent com- pote of apples, peel and core twelve medium-sized apples, throwing them into cold water as fast as peeled to prevent darkening, and proceed after either of the above methods. Any flavoring liked may be added to the syrup — ;iuice of lemon and a little of the rind is nice — and if wanted to cook very quickly cut the apples into ^ halves, thirds or quarters, when they will be " Apple com,,..t.. done in from ten to fifteen minutes. The fruit may be colored pink if liked, by adding fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. Or cook a half quince, cut into four pieces, until tender in a pint and a half water, then add the sugar for the syrup, and put in the ap])les, taking up the quince with them. This Avill color the com])()te beautifully, and also flavor nicely. Some cook sliced lemon and raisins in the syrup and pour over the apples. Pass plain or whipped sweetened cream with the dish. For a handsome Stulfed 318 FRUIT. Compote select large, fine pippins of equal size, pare, take out cores, and cook until nearly done in syrup as above; drain and bake a few moments in a quirk oven. When done, and still hot, fill the core cavities with peach marmalade, and roll each apple in the jelly made b}' boiling down the syrup, which will give them a beautiful gloss. Serve in a pyramid on a dish Avith plain or whipped cream around the base. Or form into a dome and cover with a meringue of beaten whites of eggs and sugar, sticking sweet almonds cut into four lengths into the top in reguhir form, and put in the oven to brown. Or pour among the apples, before putting over the meringue, a marmalade of apples or boiled rice. Another method of serving is to i)repare apples and syrup as above, put in the fruit and let cook until clear, remaining whole. Remove the fruit to a glass bowl; dissolve one-third box gelatine in a half cup hot water, and stir briskly into the syrup, first taking off the fire. Then strain over the apples, and set in cool place to cool. When cold heap Avhipped cream over it. Some add sliced lemons to the syrup and serve with a slice of the lemon on each apple. Or, for a Balked Compote take golden j:)ippins, or any similar small apples, pare and core, put into a wide jar with a cover, and for two quarts apples add rind of a lemon cut thin, and strew in a half pound sugar. Cover and set in slow oven several hours. Serve hot or cold. For anotlier elegant compote take smooth, prettily shaped apples and put into saucepan with enough water to cover ; add a tablespoon powdered cochineal and simmer gently ; when fruit is done take out and put into dessert dish. Make a syrup of the liquor by adding white sugar and juice of two lemons ; Avhen boiled to a jelly put it with the apples, decorating the dish with lemon peel cut into thin strips. Apple Cream. — Peel, core and cut three pounds of apples in thin slices and put in porcelain-lined kettle, with a half pound sugar, grated rind and juice of a lemon, and a teaspoon ground ginger ; simmer slowly until apples are tender enough to rub through a sieve. Scald a quart cream, beat in the apple pulp, and serve cither Avarm or cold. Any berries or soft fruit may be served in the same Avay, pulping through a sieve without cooking. Apple Fool. — Bake good cooking apples (not sweet), remove the pulp with a spoon, and beat it up with a little powdered sugar. To a cupful add the yolk of an egg and a small sponge cake ; mix together and rub through a sieve. Apple Fortress. — Take good, firm apples, that will not fall to pieces when cooked, and cut into oblong shapes two inches long and one inch thick ; put into a dish, sprinkle them well with white sugar, cover closely and let stand overnight. Next day place carefully in preserving kettle or pan with more sugar and water FRUIT. 319 and shred lemon peel, and cook gently over slow fire until done, but take care not to do them too soft. When cold build the pieces in shape of a tower with castellated top, fill inside with lumps of jelly, and on top place candied cannon, surrounded with a "ditch" of whipped cream. A really elegant dessert. Begin serving from top. Apple Porridge. — Boil slices of white bread in pint milk; when soft take off fire, sweeten with sugar, and add teaspoon ginger ; pour in a bowl and gradually stir in the pulp of three or four nicely baked apples. Apple Sago. — Pare six apples and punch out cores, fill holes with cinnamon and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to a cup sugar ; take one tablespoon sago to each apple ; wash thoroughly and let soak an hour in water enough to cover apples, pour water and sago over apples, and bake an hour and a half. Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do not cut to pieces easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plen- ty of sugar. Cover closely and stew an hour or more. The addition of the sugar at first preserves the pieces whole. If they are pre- ferred finely mashed stir occasionally while cooking and add sugar after they are done. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, or cloves, if liked, and some stir in piece of fresh butter. Or, for Baked Apple Sauce^ pare, core and quarter tart apples, put a layer in earthen baking-dish, add lumps of butter, sprinkle with sugar and a little cinnamon, then a layer of apples, etc., till dish is full ; bake till soft. Or, omit butter and cinnanion, and add quarter cup water and half cup sUgjft: to four quarts prepared apples ; or two or three times as much water may be used. For Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter and core apples sufficient to fill a gallon porcelain-kettle, put in a half gallon boiled cider and let boil. Wash the apples and put in kettle, place a plate over them, and boil steadily but not rapidly until thoroughly cooked, testing by taking one from under plate with a fork. Do not remove plate until done, or the apples will sink to the bottom and burn. Apples may be cooked in sweet cider in same way. For an Imitation Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter and core, the apples, strew sugar over and let stand overnight. Then stew in their own juice, and they will have a nice flavor and color. Apple Snoio.- — Pare, core, and bring to boil in as little water as possible six large, tart apples, cool and drain on a sieve, add two tablespoons sugar, beat to a froth and add the well-whipped whites of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoons powdered sugar, or an egg and two-thirds tablespoon sugar to each apple if wanted very light and elaborate ; beat thoroughly until a stiff snow, flavor with 320 FRUIT. lemon or vanilla or add the grated rind of a lemon ; pile the snow in a rough heap or pyramid and ornament with bits of bright colored jelly, or encircle with a row of candied orange or lemon rings ; serve with sweetened cream, or make custard of yolks, sugar, and a pint milk, place in a disli, and drop the froth on it in large flakes. For Apple Jlerinffue \)ut ix\>o\Q mixture into a deep glass dish, cover Avith the whipped whites of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar, and brown delicately in oven, or with salamander. Apple Tapioca. — Soak half a pint tapioca several hours, or overnight, in half a pint cold water ; cover the bottom of a baking dish with pared and cored tart apples ; fill cores with sugar and bake until tender. Put the tapioca on the fire with the rind of a lemon cut thin, and half a pint cold water ; when boiling add another half pint of boiling water, a gill of sugar, and the iuice of the lemon ; boil a moment, pour it over the apples, and bake half an hour or longer. Or, soak half teacup tapioca in one and a half pints cold water on back of stove as above ; then place on the stove and cook till clear, sweeten, and season with a little cinnamon ; then place a layer of pared apples, cut in quarters or eightbs, in baking-dish, then a layer of tapioca, then apples, etc., till all are used, and bake as above. Or, for Phie-apples and Tapioca take either fresh or canned pine-apples, chop fine, and add as above, oi mix with the cooked tapioca and bake. Apple Toast. — Peel and carefully core the apples. Cut slices of stale bread about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut again to a round shape about the size of the apples, with a paste-cutter. But- ter each slice on both sides and place, an apple upon it. Butter baking-dish or pan, put in the ap])les and breacl, fill the co^e cavity witli cream and sugar, or sugar alone, placing on top of sugar a piece of butter size of hazelnut, and set in warm but not quick oven. When about half done fill the hole again with tlie cream and sugar, dust with cinnamon and finish cooking. Serve warm. Or, halve the apples, hollow out the cores and place the halves upon the rounds of bread, fill the corecavityof each with good thick cream and strew sugar thickly over bread and fruit. Place in r.-low oven and renew the cream and sugar as tlu-y dissolve. When done arrange neatly in a dish, pour over any juice left in pan and serve warm ; or place cored side of apples next bread, brush with a little melted butter, dust with sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon, and bako as above. Apple Triffc. — Scald and pulp through a sieve as many apples as will cover the dish to be used to the depth of two or three inches, add grated rind of half a lemon and sugar to taste, and place in dish. Mix a half pint each milk and cieam and yolk of an egg, and sweeten to taste. Set over fire and scald, stirring constantly, FRUIT. 321 but do not boil. Let stand till cold, put it over apples and finish witli whipped cream. Apples and Grapes. — Strain the juice from ripe grapes, adding pountf sugar to each quart, and boil until reduced one-half. Put into this some golden pippins, pared, cored and quartered ; simmer very slowly until apples are done, and serve either warm or cold in glass dish, or seal for future use in cans. Apples and Quinces. — Take a quantity of golden pippins, cut into quarters, but do not pare, put into saucepan of boiling water and simmer until a jelly. To each pound jelly add a pound sugar ; then cut two or three quinces into quarters, and cook them <:lowly in the syrup until tender. Serve in glass dishes for dessert. Apricot Compote. — Make a syrup b}' boiling together one pound sugar and one and a half pints water fifteen minutes, care- fully removing all scum ; put in twelve apricots, simmering until tender, taking care that they do not break ; take out carefully, arrange on glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over the apricots, and when cold serve. For Peach Compote take fifteen ] teaches, peel and stone them, cook ten minutes and take out as aliove, boiling the syrup two or three minutes to reduce it before ])ouring over. A few kernels give a nice flavor. To prepare, crack the stones, take out kernels and blanch as almonds. A Damson Compote is made same as apricot, taking one quart fruit. If a White Ccw^;?o^e is wished of peaches or apricots, cut the fruit in two, take out stones, throw them into boiling water (a very little lemon added) for two minutes, then plunge in cold or ice water, taking out immediately. This makes them white. Peel and finish as above. For a Bed Compote add four tablespoons red currant juice, or a tablespoon jelly, beaten smooth and thinned with a cup of water. Bananas. — There are two varieties, the yellow and red ; the former has a richer, finer flavor, and ranks higher in market than the red, although the latter is very delicious, being more solid and nutritious, and by some prized more highly. The choicest bananas are the Aspinwall "Lacly Fingers, grown on the Isthmus of Panama. They are of a pale lemon color, medium size, not round, but having a sharp ridge running the whole length of the fruit, of fine, firm flesh, and rare flavor. The ripening season begins in January, is at its height in March, and the supply diminishes towards midsummer, though in some localities the fruit ripens con- stantly, and may thus be had the year round. Tliey are often served whole on a margin of green leaves, the colors contrasting very prettily, or mixed with oranges, the red ones being especially used thus ; but it is considered by some much better taste to peei 322 FRUIT. them, and, if very large, cut in two lengthwise, or crosswise if long and not very large round. Serve neatly placed on a napkin in fruit dish. Baked Bananas. — Peel a dozen bananas and split in halves lengthwise. Lay these strips closely in baking-pan, strew sugar and bits of fresh butter over, and grate in a little nutmeg. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. They should come out glazed, and if not syrup enough in the pan, a little should be mixed in a cup to baste them with. Serve as a last course with cake and milk. Fried Bananas. — Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, sprinkle with sugar, and serve. Thus prepared they make a nice dessert. The bananas must be quite ripe, Ba7ianas and Cream. — Slice the bananas crosswise — not too thin — scatter powdered sugar over, and before it dissolves squeeze the juice of several oranges over them, or oranges maybe cut up and mixed Avith them, or the bananas may be served Anth cream and sugar alone. Very nice for tea. They make an agreeable dessert with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, ])Oured over them. A tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and stirred into the cream, gives a little body to it. Serve with sponge cake. BlacJcherry TriHe. — Stew one quart blackberries witli one <[uart sugar and a half cup Avater. They should cook only fifteen minutes. When cold, serA'e Avith poAvdered cracker and sugar and cream. The cracker and berries should be in separate dishes. Cherries. — This fruit may be very elegantly serA-ed for dessert by picking in clusters on the twigs Avith a few leaves on each. An hour before dinner place them in the refrigerator, and AA'hen taken out they Avill be found not only refreshingly cool, but covered with moisture like dcAV. Or treat the clusters simply in same Avay. If served plain send to table heaped on saucers or glasses of j.ounded ice, one for each guest, and pass sugar Avith them. Or ;irrange in pyramid on a glass dish. Both red and yelloAV varieties should be obtained for this if possible. Clierry Compote. — Secure red cherries because of their piquant fliivor, and be sure to have only perfect fruit. Do not stem them, but shorten the stems Avith the scissors. Put the fruit in a preserv- ing kettle Avith Avhite granulated sugar in the proportion of a (juarter pound sugar to cA-ery pound fruit, and add juice of one Ituion to same quantities ; put OA'er slow fire and boil three minutes, removing all scum and shaking occasionally; take out fruit with a spoon, put in a boAvl and carefully drain off all syrup, Avliich should be reduced by further boiling. To thicken the syrup FBUIT. 323 a little isinglass or gelatine may be used, but it is better without, as the thin jelly of pure syrup is beautifully transparent. Pour this syrup or jelly into a dish to cool, and when ready to serve the com- pote pile the cherries in a p3^ramid and turn the syrup over them. Or, prepare cherries the same, take four tablespoons sugar and a pint water to one quart cherries^, put in a saucepan, let boil, and skim ; add a half cup raspberry juice, put in the cherries and cook until tender ; pile them on a glass dish, reduce the syrup to a thin jelly, and when cool pour over them. Cherry Sauce. — To every pound Avell ripened, stoned cherries add a half pound sugar, melted and poured over boiling hot. Put on ice till cold and serve. Currants. — Select fine large red and white currants and arrange in alternate rows in pyramidal form on glass dish, placing the red on bottom, with a border of green leaves outside, as shown in cut. Sprinkle liberally throughout with sugar, set in refrigerator until ready to serve, when dust fine granulated sugar thickly over, which will cling to the currants, that will have become damp in the Currant Pyramid, icc box, aud glvc a prctty frost-llkc effect. Raspberries may be served in same way, either red and white, red and black, or alternate layers of each. Currants are also nice served in large fine clusters heaped on fruit dish, always cooling on ice before sending to table ; or intersperse with layers of raspberries or other seasonable fruits. Gooseberry Compote. — Stew one quart berries, which should not be very ripe, and pour boiling water over them ; take out and E lunge them into cold water, with which a tablespoon of vinegar as been mixed, which will help preserve the color of the fruit. Boil together half pint sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, skimming well ; drain the gooseberries and put them in, simmer gently until nicely pulped and tender, without being broken ; then take out on glass dish; boil the syrup two or three minutes, pour over.the gooseberries, and serve cold. Compote of Green Gages is made the same, carefully stemming and stoning the fruit, which will cook in one-third the time required for gooseberries. Gooseberry Fool. — Stem the gooseberries and cut off tops ; put in ajar with two tablespoons water and a little sugar, set the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash ; or simply stew the fruit, pulp through a colander or sieve, and to every pint add a pint milk, or equal quantities milk and cream. Sweeten well or it will not be eatable, and in mixing add the milk very gradually ; serve in a glass dish or in small glasses. This old- fashioned dish id very delicious when well made, and if properly 324 FRUIT. sweetened a very nice relish for children. A hoiled custard may he stirred in instead of the cream, and a less quantity of cream may he used-^a gill to a quart of pulp — stirring in carefully just before serving. Gooseberry TrilJe. — Put a quart gooseberries into a jar. sweeten to taste, and boil until reduced to pulp. Put this in the bottom of a high glass dish, pour over it a pint of boiled custard, and when cold cover with whipped cream. The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then be much firmer and more solid. Gar- nish in any manner liked, with bits of jelly, or sliced almonds, etc. Grapes. — The finest native ones are the Con- cords, Delawares and Catawbas, the former of which is generally considered most desirable, and ripens about August 1st. The Delawares are marketed about the same time, and the Catawbas a little later. Later varieties come into market the last of September, and may be had during October. California grapes are shipped during August, September and October, tlie finest varieties of which are the Tokays, White Muscats, Rose Peru and Black Morocco. These are very showy, Init not of so fine a flavor as the fruit from the middle states. Wild grapes are abun- dant from September to November, but are not suited to table use when fresh. Foreign grapes may be had at the fruit stores through- out the winter. The Malaga leads all foreign grapes, and ot)mes packed in cork-dust, which is a non-conductor of heat and absorbt'ut of moisture, and so is always in good condition. //' left in the cork-dust this fruit will keep three months in prime order. When used rinse well in ice-water, and place on a glass dish or dishes sur- rounded by fine ice ; if plentiful do not divide clusters, but serve a bunch for each guest. Jellied Grapes. — A very delicate dish is made of one-third cup rice, two cups stemmed grapes, half cup water, and two tablespoons sugar. Sprinkle rice and sugar among the grapes, while ]ilacing in a deep dish ; pour on the water, cover closely and simmer two hours slowly in the oven. Serve cold at dessert. Florida Grape-Fruit. — This is a new, clear-skinned, lemon- colored fruit, about three times as large as an orange, and bearing a general resemblance to that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, luit its juicv pulp is enclosed in a tough white membrane of intensely bitter taste ; Avhen this membrane is removed tbe fruit is delicious. To pre])are it for the table, cut the skin in sections and peel it off; sep- arate the sections as you would those of an orange, and holding FRUIT. 325 each one by the ends, break it open from the center, disclosing the pulp ; tear this out of the bitter white membrane which covers the sections, carefully removing every part of it; keep the pulp as un- broken as possible, and put it into a deep dish Avith a plentiful sprinkling of fine sugar. Let it stand three or four hours, or over- night, and then use the fruit. It is refreshing and wholesome. Oranges. — The finest California oranges are known as the Cali- fornia Riverside varieties, including the Naval s, smooth, sweet, lus- cious fruit, without seeds, the Mediterranean Swee'ts, and the Seed- lings. The Paper-rind is also a California Orange, small, but s"^eet, and very desirable for table use. Of the Florida fruit the Indian River oranges rank first, the choicest of which is the Florida Bright. The Florida oranges appear in market in Deceml^er, and may be had in their perfection until about February 1st, after which date they l)e- come too ripe and spongy to be desirable. The California fruit be- gins ripening in December and may be had until late in June in excellent condition. The summer market is thus principally sup- plied by foreign importations, of which the Messinas and Rodas are the best varieties, though neither are so fine as the fruits above mentioned, and are liable to be dry and pulpy. The Seville orange is a bitter, acid fruit, used to some extent in cooking, but unfit for trade use. When buying oranges select from unwrapped fruit, if possible, those that are solid and heavy, with a smooth, thin skin, of a deep j^ellow red color. To remove any stale flavor absorbed from contact with decayed fruit, or from the odor of the box, wash lightly with a sponge in very cold water, dry with a soft towel with- out rubbing, wrap again in clean, soft paper, and jout away until wanted for use in a closely-covered tin box or stone crock or a drawer, in a cool, dry closet. Lemons should be cared for in same manner. To serve oranges whole for breakfast or dessert cut the peel in six or eight equal pieces, making the incisions from the stem downward ; peel each piece down about half way, and bend it sharply to the right, leaving the peeled orange apparentl}'- in a cup, from which it is removed without much difficulty. For an elegant center piece pile the oranges so prepared in a pyramid on a high fruit dish with bananas and white grapes, if obtainable. They are also very nice peeled and sliced with seeds and pith removed, and sprinkled with sugar two or three hours before serving for either dessert or tea. Some strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. Orange Compote. — Peel six oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin enclosing them. Make a syrup of half pound sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, skimming well, adding the rind of the orange '-^ cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup Orange Compote. ' has bccn wcll skimmcd and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange and simmer five minutes. Take out 326 FBUTT. carefully with a spoon without hreaking them and arrange on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick ; let cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and serve cold. For a very delicious compote, peel and remove the pulp of eight large oranges, divide as above, squeeze the juice from four more over three- quarters pound sifted sugar and the rind of one orange cut in strips, removing all the pulp. Put the pieces of orange in the syrup, boil about six minutes, drain, boil the syrup until it thickens, dish fruit and pour the syrup over. Or, peel and cut the oranges into slices cros^vise, and remove seeds. Make a thick sviup as directed in apple compote, and, Avhen cold, pour it over ut sliced oranges, which are not cooked. v Orange Float. — One quart water, juice and p.a!|^»f two lemons, coffee-cup sugar ; when boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold Jour it over four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top i^pread the beaten whites of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. Orange Fool. — Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three well- beaten eggs, a pint cream, and a little nutmeg and cinnamon and sweeten to taste. Set over a slow fire and stir till thick as cream, but do not let boil ; then pour into a dish and set by till cold. An excellent dessert dish. Oraiiqe Snow. — Mix the juice of four oranges and grated peel of one with a large cup powdered sugar and a package gelatine, soaked in cup cold water; let stand an hour, add a pint boiling water, stirring until clear, and strain through a coarse cloth, wring- ing hard. When cold whip in stiffly frothed whites four eggs, place in a mold, which was first rinsed with water, and let stand six or eight hours. Some add the juice and grated peel of a lemon. Peaches. — The first crop marketed is from Mississippi, picked about May 1st. Tennessee peaches may be had in June, and Cali- fornia fruit appears about July 1st. The finest peaches, however, are grown in Michigan and INIaryland, and are marketed during August, the supply lasting until into November. The California fruit is the handsomest, but not of so rich a flavor as the fine Yellow Crawfords from ^Michigan, the finest peaches obtainnble, though some prefer the wliite-mcated varieties, of which the Old- mixon Freestone and early York are the best. If large and perfect do not slice, but serve them whole ; wipe or brush off the featliery coating, arrange them neatly on the fruit-dish and decorate with fresh green leaves and flowers. Sliced peaches turn a rusty brown color if allowed to stand after cutting them, and should be served as soon as prepared ; if necessary for them to stand, cover with whipped cream properly sweetened. A little lemon FRUIT. 327 juice brings out the flavor of all preparations of peaches, and may be squeezed over sliced peaches before serving. Peaches for stew- ing, baking, etc., may be peeled or wiped with a cloth, or brushed. The blanched kernels cooked with them give a much finer flavor. Baked Peaches. — Wash the peaches (they need not be fully ripe), put them in a deep dish, sprinkle well with sugar, cover, and bake until perfectly tender. Serve with the syrup in pan poured over. Or, take equal parts rich sliced peaches, green corn pulp, and water. Sweeten to taste, place in baking dish, and bake twenty minutes. Frozen Peaches. — Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe and juicy peaches, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and half freeze, which will take about an hour ; remove just before serving, and sprinkle with a little more sugar. Canned peaches and all kinds of berries may be prepared in same way. Or, boil heaping pint sugar, and quart water together twelve minutes ; then add one quart of either canned or fresh peaches, and cook twenty minutes longer. Rub through a sieve, and when cool freeze. Take out beater and stir in pint cream, whipped. Cover and let stand an hour or so. Frozen Aj^ri- cots are prepared same way. Frozen Peaches and Cream. — Peel and quarter fresh peaches, add sugar nnd cream, making very sweet. First place some cjuar- ters in bottom of mold, then fill and surround with ice and salt, freeze the mass solid without stirring. Turn out and serve. Jellied Peaches. — Cut a dozen peaches in halves, peel and take out stones, crack half the seeds, and blanch kernels ; make a clear boiling sj'rup of one pound white sugar, and into it put the peaches and kernels, boil very gently ten minutes, take out half the peaches, boil the rest ten minutes longer, and take out all the peaches and kernels; mix with syrup left in kettle the strained juice of three lemons, and an ounce isinglass dissolved in a little water and strained ; boil up once, fill a mold half full, let stand until "set," add part of the peaches and a little more jelly, and Avhen this is "set," add the rest of the peaches, and fill up the mold with jelly. An elegant ornament. Set the jelly in pan of hot water to keep from hardening until all is used. Peach Float. — Take the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; stew six peaches until soft enough to mash, sweeten to taste and beat in the whites of eggs. Serve cold heaped in a dish. Apple^ Pear and Quince Floats made same. Peach Meringue. — Put a quart milk on to boil, omitting a half cup with which to moisten two tablespoons corn-starch; when the milk boils add the moistened corn-starch, stir till thick, then remove 328 FRUIT. from fire, add one tablespoon butter, and allow the mixture to cool ; then beat in yolks of three eggs till the whole seems light and creamy; add a half cup powdered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking-dish with two or three layers rich juicy peaches, pared, halved and stoned, sprinkle over three tablespoons powdered sugar ; pour the custard carefully over them and bake twenty min- utes, then spread with the light-beaten whites, well sweetened, and return to oven till a light brown. To be eaten warm with a rich sauce, or cold with sweetened cream. Peach Tapioca. — Soak half-pint tapioca in cold water two or three hours, set on stove until it boils, and sweeten to taste. Peel and slice ripe peaches to nearly fill a baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar, pour the tapioca over them, and bake slowly one hour. Serve with cream and sugar. Peaches and Cream. — The harder kinds of peaches should be chopped to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar two or three hours before serving. Allow about four ounces sugar to a quart. Soft peaches after peeling are best eighthed or sliced. A nice way to serve is in large glass bowls ornamented with quarters of red or yellow peaches neatly placed, and a pitcher of cream with each bowl separately. If served individually in saucers, pour cream over only as they are dished up. Peaches in Marmalade. — Pare and halve four fine, ripe peaches and let them fi}i8t simmer from five to eight minutes in a syrup made Avith third of a pint water and three ounces white sugar, boiled together fifteen minutes ; lift out carefully into a deep dish, pour about half the syrup over them, and into the remaining half throw a couple of pounds more quite ripe peaches and boil to a perfectly smooth dry pulp or marmalade, with as much powdered sugar as the fruit may require, adding a little lemon juice. Lift the other peaches from the syrup, and reduce it I5y very quick boiling, more than half Spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a dish, arrange the peaches symmetrically around it, and iill all the spaces between with the marmalade ; place half of a blanched peach kernel in each, pour the reduced syrup equally over the surface, and form a border around the dish with Italian macaroons, or, candied citron, sliced very thin, and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. The better to preserve their form, the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and then boiled t.olerably tender in the syrup before they are pared or split. Half a pint water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must then be allowed for them. If any of those used for the marmalade should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it through a sieve, when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy. Pears. — The California Bartletts are the finest to l^e had in the world, and are in market from July till October. The New York FRUIT. 329 Bartletts rank next, and have fully as good a flavor, but are not so large. The New York Duchess is also a choice j^ear — very fine for canning — and the Seckle, raised in both New York and California, is best for pickling. The Pound pear is the largest, but good only for canning. To serve whole, wash, if necessary, wipe dry, and ar- range in glass dish with green leaves ; the addition of oranges has a pleasing effect. BaTied Pears. — Bake washed, unpeeled pears in pan with only a teaspoon or two of water; leave stems on, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with their own syrup. Or, for a more elaborate dish, pare and cut twelve pears into halves, and, should they be very large, into quarters ; leave the stems on, and carefully remove the cores. Place them in baking-dish or bean-pot with cover ; add one lemon rind cut in strijis, and the juice of half a lemon, six cloves, ten pounded allspice, and sufficient water to just cover the whole, with sugar in proportion of a half pound to each pint water. Cover closely, put into very cool oven, and bake from five to six hours. Be very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the color of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added ; but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked. Take out in glass dish, being careful to preserve shape, and pour over them the juice in which they were baked. Serve cold, placing on ice a half hour or so before wanted. If a larger quantity is to be baked, pack carefully in layers Avith season- ing between. Stewed Pears may be prepared in same manner with same ingredients ; cook slowly in porcelain-kettle on top of stove instead of baking. Serve as above. Or, peel the pears, leave the stems on, and place them Avhole in a stew-pan with a little water, sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently and add one glass cider, if liked, or omit both spices and cider. Some like a vanilla bean stewed Avith them. Serve cold. Jellied Pears. — Peel and cut four large or six small pears into quarters, put them into a jar with three-fourths pint water, cloves, cinnamon and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, cover down the top of the jar, and bake in a gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When done lay in a plain mold, which should be well wetted ; simmer three-fourths pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with a strip of lemon peel, strain- ed juice of half a lemon, and a half ounce gelatine. Let these in- gredients simmer well five minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears ; put the mold in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm turn out in a glass dish. A less elaborate way is to pare and quarter eight nice pears, and put in a porcelain saucepan with water enough to cook ; put on lid and simmer fruit gently until tender, then i^move to a platfer j make a syrup of a pound sugar and a 830 FRUIT. pint pear-water ; add juice two lemons, grated rind of one, and put in the pears ; cook a few minutes then remove to the dish in which they are to be molded. Soak an ounce gelatine an hour or two in enough water to cover, and stir it into the hot syrup ; let boil up once and turn it over fruit through a strainer. The mold should be dipped in cold water before putting in fruit. When cold turn jelly into a dish and serve with whipped cream around the base, or serve in saucers with sweet cream. Pear Compote. — Make as apple compote, or cook six or eight canned pears in their syrup until it becomes like honey ; then re- move from the fire, halve and lay in a dish. Beat whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, and spread over the pears. Brown vdXh salamander or in oven, if desired. Or, for a Compote with Eggs^ peel good, sound pears, cut into quarters, and take out seeds, flour them lightly and fry in butter. Add enough Avater and sugar to make a syrup and stew the pears until tender. Take up the pears, thicken the syrup with well-beaten yolks of eggs ; pour over the pears and serve. Alligator Pear Salad. — The alligator pear is a tropical fruit but little known, that tastes something like the American chestnut, and is finding its way to some tables. Select green-colored fruit, as the black over-ripe fruit is not good. Cut the pear in two, remove the large seeds, pare away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into strips, and season with a saltspoon salt, two tablespoons olive oil, and a teaspoon tarragon vinegar. Balked Pie-Plant. — Wash, peel and cut into inch pieces, and place in covered baking-dish, sprinkling sugar on each layer, using about a teacup to a quart. The nicest thing to cook it in is a covered bean-pot, allowing one hour from time it is put in oven. This makes a delicious sauce, far superior to stewing it. If baked with- out a cover it will be done in half an hour, but is nicer to cover and confine the aroma Stewed Pie-jilant. — Make a 'rich syrup by adding sugar to water in which long strips of orange peel have been boiled until tender, put a single layer of pie-plant three inches long, and stew gently until clear. When done remove and cook another layer. This makes a handsome dessert dish, ornamented with puff-paste cut in fanciful shapes. Use one orange to two and a half jiounds pie-])lant. Some prefer to stew pie-plant in clear Avatcr, turning off all the water possible Avhen done and letting it get almost cold be- fore sweetening. Less sugar is required, and it is also thought to be much nicer. To remove the strong acid taste, and also effect a saving in sugar, many turn boiling hot water over it before cooking and let stand until cold, then turning it off; some let statid in the FRUIT. 331 hot water only five minutes or so. Fried Pie-plant is also nice. Fry in butter like apples, and sweeten well. Pine-apple. — The Strawberry is the best variety, though the Sugarloaf is good, of smoother exterior, fine-grained and tender, but not so juicy and high-flavored as the former. This fruit is so per- ishable that to keep even a few days it must be cooked. To prepare, peel and cut the fruit into dice. Throw away the core or heart, as it is bitter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar and place on ice some time before serving; many let it stand overnight, but as pine- apples darken by exposure to air, if wanted to look nicely, serve at once. Just before wanted pile high in center of fruit-dish, Avith border of sponge cake slices, lody fingers or jelly sandwiches (see " Jellies and Jams^, and the tuft of the pine-apple topping the whole. Very nice if sliced on a slaw-cutter, and some after paring pick the fruit from the core with a knife. A dish of alternate layers of shredded pine-apple and cocoa- ^^^_^; nut, sprinkled with sugar and served with a sauce of or- Tinel^piT' ange juice, is a nice dessert. Or, peel and cut a pine-apple into uniform slices, put in a glass dish and cover with a cup pow- dered sugar. Let stand to ferm a syrup, and just before serving add a half cup orange juice. To Keep. — Pare and cut out the ej^es of a ripe pine-apple, strip all the pulp from the core with a silver fork ; to a pint of this add a pound of granulated sugar ; stir occasion- ally until sugar is dissolved, put in glass fruit-cans, and turn down the covers as closely as possible. This will keep a long time. Plums. — The California and Oregon varieties may be had through August and September, as also ~ the domestic sweet plums. The Blue Damsons, a sour variety, come later, and are highly prized, many considering them superior to the sweet plums. The Green Gages and Imperial Gages are excellent for canning and preserving. To serve, they may be simply heaped carelessly on a border of green. -Baked Quinces. — Core the quinces and rub them well, put in baking-pan, and fill core cavity with powdered sugar. Bake till tender and serve with sugar and cream. Or, pare, quarter, extract the seeds and stew in clear cold water until a straw will pierce them ; put into a baking-dish with a half cup sugar to every eight quinces, pour over the liquor in which they were boiled, cover closely and steam in oven one hour. Pour the syrup over them and serve. For a Quince Comjyote, cook as above, then take out the fruit, lay in covered bowl to keep warm, return syrup to saucepan and boil twenty minutes ; pour over fruit and set away covered to cool. Serve cold. 332 FRUTT. Steamed Quinces. — Pare, quarter and core very ripe quinces and steam in a deep dish until perfectly tender : then slice them in the dish in which they are to be served, sprinkle with sugar, and pour the juice over them. Serve cold. • Raisine. — Squeeze the juice from very ripe but quite sound grapes, and boil till reduced one-half. Peel and core some pears, cut into quarters, and put in the grape syrup. Let boil till reduced a third. Raisine may be made from unripe grapes, but in tliis case sugar must be added, allowing a quarter pound to every pint grape juice. Raspherry Float. — Crush a pint very ripe red raspberries with a gill sugar ; beat whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and add grad- ually a gill powdered sugar ; press the raspberries through a fine strainer to avoid seeds, and by degrees beat in the juice with the egg and sugar until so stiff that it stands in peaks. All berries may be served same way. Strawberries. — If to be plainly served select large, fine fruit with the stems on, clip the stems within an inch of the berry, and arrange in basket as in cut, bordering with leaves, and rounding the center by heaping up more leaves. Arrange the strawberries carefully, standing them on their stems, and pass with a tiny cup (wine-glasses. egg-glasses ''strawberries. or cvcu buttcr-platcs wlU do) of powdered • sugar to each guest. The berries are taken by the stem, dipped into the sugar, and eaten. Never wash berries unless absolutely neces- sary. But if they must be washed, take a dish of cold, soft water, put in a few berries, and with the hand press them down into the water once or twice, until they look clean, then hull them. Repeat the process till all are hulled, changing the water often. Never drain in a colander. Some wash them by putting them under the pump in an open basket, and give them one good showering that passes through the berries and carries off all grit and dirt. If not to be eaten for an hour or more, hang the basket in the refrigerator, and do not hull them until the last moment, though many prefer to stem them and sprinkle thickly with sugar two or three hours before .serving, while others i)ut no sugar over them until dished at table. Frozen Strawherries. — Boil quart water and pint sugar together half an hour; then add two quarts strawberries, and cook fifteen minutes longer. Let cool and freeze. Take out beater and add one pint cream, whipped, using a wooden paddle and beating it in thor- oughly. Preserved fruit can be used instead of the fresh, when use for each quart preserves one (juart water. Frozen Raspberries are prepared as above, except that before freezing add the juice of three lemons. All kinds of canned and preserved fruits can be thus pre- pared and frozen. For the freezing process see Ices and Ice Creams. FPvUiT. 333 Mock Strawberries. — Cut ripe peaches and choice weil-flavored apples, in proportion of three peaches to one apple, into quarters about the size of a strawberry, place in alternate layers, sprinkle the top thickly with sugar, and add pounded ice ; let stand about two hours, mix peaches and apples thoroughly, let stand an hour longer and serve. Oranged Sirawher'ries. — Place a layer of strawberries in a deep dish ; cover thickly with pulverized sugar, then a layer of berries. and so on, until all are used. Pour orange juice over them in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries. Let stand an hour, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. Straiohervies iinth Whipped Cream. — Prepare in layers as above, cover with one pint of cream, Avhites of three eggs and a cup pow- dered sugar, whipped together and flavored with strawberry juice. Straioberry Meringue. — Mix a half cup sugar Avith two cups strawberries by shaking about in a bowl, and spread them on a sheet of sponge cake baked in a jelly-pan, and pressed while warm into a shallow dish to give it a hollow shape. Whip whites of three eggs firm, mix in two tablespoons sugar, sj^read the meringue over the berries and brown with the salamander or hot shovel. Serve cold. Frosted Fruits. — Most all fruits can be thus treated and make a delicious dessert. WJiip whites of two eggs and stir in a half pound fine granulated sugar, beating fifteen minutes. Prepare Frosted Oranges by skinning oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possi- ble, without breaking them, passing a thread through the center of each, dip them into the frosting until thoroughly coated, and then tie them to a stick ; place the stick across the oven and let the balls remain until thoroughly dry, Avhen they will have the appear- ance of balls of ice. Care must be taken not to have the oven so hot as to brown them. Send to table heaped on dish witli green leaves around. A very pretty dessert or supper dish. Or tho oranges may be peeled and divided into sections, removing as much pith as possible, whip together on a plate with a knife or fork white of one egg and four tablespoons water, add a dessert-spoon powder- ed sugar, mix all thoroughly and strain through a sieve into an- other plate ; dip the fruit into these, roll carefully in sifted powdered sugar and place on a sieve to dry. Or some use the stiffly-whipped whites of two eggs with one tablespoon water, and proceed the same. Others simply beat the whites until they break, and do not use water. Frosted Peaches are done same as oranges, first rubbing off the fuzz with a clean cloth, and when partially dry roll a second time in the sugar. Frosted Currants may be thus prepared in bunches, also Frosted Graves., or these may be taken on a needle and done singly. Frosted Cherries are also done singly on their stems, or in bunches. For Frosted Bananas, procure those of 334 FRUIT. medium size, peel and frost whoie by brushing them over with the whipped egg mixture, using the pastry brush for this, and dipping powdered sugar over them ; or cut into nice slices, wipe dry, and frost as other fruits. For Frosted Pears choose small Bartlett or Sugar pears. Frosted Berries are nice, and any kind of berries may be thus served, if large, perfect and not over-ripe. Frosted Plums are nice also. Very pretty effects are produced by serving the different kinds of frosted fruits in same dish, piling the sections of oranges evenly in a cone in center and arranging the grapes, currants, etc., around the base, interspersed with green leaves, or with stems put into the cone at intervals, or in any way fancied. A pretty dish of oranges alone is made by first frosting one-third the sections, as above, then color one-third of the sugar Avith a few drops liquid cochineal, letting it dry, and rolling if it lumps ; roll one-third of the oranges in this, and glaze the remaining third according to directions for Glazing Fruits. Put together in dish, in rows of each color, or in any pretty order, on a base of green leaves. Frozen Fruits. — These are frozen the same as water ices, re- quiring more salt in freezing than ice cream. If let stand half an hour in tlie freezer on ice they will freeze easier. If in preparing the mixture the sugar does not dissolve entirely, which is very nec- essary, add more water, or, better still, juice of the^same fruit, to just dissolve it, and then when ready, freeze. For Frozen Oranges take two pounds Florida oranges, first rub one-third of the oranges with a handful or two of granulated sugar taken from the two pounds sugar to be used in recipe, then peel, quarter and halve each quarter, taue out seeds, and mix with all the sugar as above, juice of two lemons and one quart water. When sugar is dissolveci put in freezer and turn slowly, so as to break the orange pulp as little as possilile. For Frozen Strawherries mix two pounds berries and juice of two lemons, or for a richer flavor use oranges, let stand half an hour, add two pounds sugar, and after another half hour one quart water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, freeze, and color with a few drops of carmine. For Frozen Pine-apples take the Birdscve or Rose, prepare as for serving, cutting into dice; mix at once iii same proportions as strawberries, omitting tlie carmine. Frozen Bananas are prepared in same way. For Frozen Pasp- herries mix two pounds each berries and sugar, stir lightly once or twice till sugar is dissolved, add one quart water and freeze, stirring only enough to congeal it. If purple berries are used, put two table- spoons each currant juice and sugar to each pound fruit. Some prefer juice of lemons to that of currants. For Frozen Cherries bruise one dozen kernels in a mortar to a paste, and tie loosely in muslin. Mix two and quarter ])ounds cherries, having first stoned them, and two pounds sugar, put in kernels, let stand half an FRUIT. 335 hour, add water, stir gently to dissolve sugar, take out kernels and freeze. The very small quantity of kernels used gives a pleasant nutty flavor^ and a hardly perceptible bitter taste, which is acceptable to most palates ; but if disliked by any it ma}'- be omitted. For Frozen Currants mash one and one-half pounds currants and one-half pound raspberries lightly, add two pounds sugar, and after linlf an hour one quart water, and when dissolved, freeze. If the fruit is very acid add more sugar. Frozen Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines and Plums are prepared the same, except the three latter are not pared. Select two pounds white-fleshed peaches and rub off fuzz, pare, cut in half and drop at once into ice-cold water ; when all are pared, drain quickl}'', and mix with two pounds sugar, adding one dozen kernels which have been pounded to a paste, and tied in a muslin bag. Add one quart water, and when sugar is dissolved, take out bag, chop fruit into dice, mix and freeze. Color faintly Avith carmine. Use canned apricots if fresh cannot be obtained. For Frozen Apples pare and core two pounds apples and drop into cold water. When all are prepared, drain, cut into dice, mix with two pounds sugar, add half ounce apple seeds, bruised and tied in a muslin rag, stir lightly, after half an hour add the water, mix well, remove bag and freeze. For Frozen Grapes stone and gently mash two and a quarter pounds fruit, mix with two pounds sugar, after an hour add one quart water and freeze. For a Macedoine of Fruits mix two or more fruits that harmonize in flavor, as orange and pine-apple, peach and apricot, apple and orange, plum and grape, raspberry, cherry and currant, strawberry and lemon. Mix in any of above proportions and freeze. ' Glazed Fruits. — Boil a cup each granulated sugar and water together half an hour (less water may be used), or until it becomes brittle Avhen dropped in cold water. Pour this syrup in a bowl placed in hot water, and dip the fruit to be glazed in this and place to dry. For Glazed Oramjes peel and separate into the natural divisions without breaking the skin. Take each piece on a skewer and dip into the hot syrup and then place the other end of the skewers in a bowl of salt, with the oranges hanging over the edge, that the glazing may dry perfectly, or lay them on a slightly but- tered plate. Plums, grapes, cherries, currants and other fruits may be glazed in same manner. Do not stir the syrup or it will grain, and it is well to add the juice of a lemon to prevent its turning to sugar. If it begins to grain add a little water and reheat. Or the syrup may be made of a pound sugar, a large half cup water, and a half teaspoon cream tartar. Iced Fruits are done by simply coat- ing with plain white iceing, made with whites of eggs and sugar, as for cake. 836 FRUIT. ^facedoine of Fruits. — With jelly this is a handsome dish for des- sert, and seems a very elaborate one, but is quite easily prepared. Any J^ bright-colored jelly, flavored nicely, will S^^^ do for the purpose, and these are speed- 1^^^?^ ih'' prepared by means of gelatine. Vy YID First put the mold on ice, and ]M-oceed agsK^I to ill! alternately with jelly and different hSHH kinds of fruits ; pour in a little jelly ^^^H^ and when set arrange fruits in a circle, ^H^H^^:^ or according to taste ; pour in more ^^^^p^^i^- jelly, and when it hardens put in more "' '- ^^ ^. . ^ .f ^^^^? ^^^ fruit, and continue thus until full. '•"f"" "' " Grapes, cherries, peaches, strawberries, iu..._.-. .. ifuits. ^^ ^^^y fj.^j^g^ ^|-jg smaller ones on their stems, the larger ones cut in pieces, show off handsomely, and if fresh fruit is scarce, preserved or candied fruit may be used. Keep the jelly in a pan of hot water to prevent its hardening until used. When firm turn it out and surmount the whole with mixed fruits. Fruit Balls. — Spread boiled rice over a cloth and lay on the rice cherries,. I>errie3 or oranges, peeled, and as much pith as pos- sible removed, tie closel}'-, boil long enough to cook the fruit. s])rinkle with sugar and serve wdth syrup, or sugar and cream, or any sauce liked. Or, pare and core apples whole, put some sugar and a clove into each, put the rice around them, tie in a cloth and boil until tender. Serve same. Fruit Juices. — Mash the juicy fruits to a pulp, place on fire till scalding hot. Pour into a puree sieve and allow the juice to run through. Put into bottles or cans and seal and finish as in Canning Fruits by placing them in boiler of cold water and boil for twenty minutes. Remove from fire and allow to remain in boiler until cold; then set away for use. In the case of non-juicy fruits, such as apples, pears, peaches, etc., put fruit in saucepan, cover Avith water, and boil to a pulp, place on a hair sieve and allow to drain M'ithout any pressing. Bottle this juice as above. This makes the clear, transparent extracts for S3'rups, cordials and beverages. In cases where the flavorings are to be used for any purpose where transparency or clearness is not desirable, such as for ice creams, fruit-ices, or bon-bons, then use not only the clear fluid but also the l-)ulp, and bottle as above. Fruit Sala'h — For platter of salad sufficient for twelve or six- teen take half dozen each oranges and pears, one dozen each ])eaches and bananas, pound each white and red grapes and one lemon ; pare the large fruits, and first cut an orange in small pieces and place in center of ]ilatter ; on top of or around these pieces cut a peach or two (according to size), then a banana, then a pear — FRUIT. 337 using one's fancy in the shapes of the pieces, some round, some square, some oblong, etc. Wash a few- of the grapes and place them (■without stems) at different points over the layer, and dust over with granulated sugar, then squeeze upon it a little lemon juice. Now commence again with orange and proceed as before with all the fruits until platter is nicely filled and rounded with the different fruits. Finish with small clusters of red and white grapes (ou sterns^ alternately placed around the edge of the platter and small thin slices of the red core of watermelon may be added wdth the grapes. If the juice accumulates too much in platter carefully dip it into a small pitcher^ and as the salad is served pour over some juice. This can be made of canned fruits (adding strawberries), but does not look as well. Fruit Toasts. — Halve and stone peaches and place each half Inside uppermost, on thin square or round pieces of bread ; place in bottom of well-buttered dish, with a piece of butter in each, sprinkle with sugar and bake a half hour in moderate oven ; when done, arrange carefully in a dish, pour the syrup from baking dish over, and serve hot. Apricots, large plums and pears are nice baked thus. Fi'uh ill Jelly. — Put a half pint clear melted calf-foot jelly into a bowd ; lay in three peaches and a bunch of grapes, Avith the stalks upward ; put in three small vine leaves next, and fill up with the jelly; let stand overnight, then set to the brim in hot water; when the jelly loosens from the bowl put dish over it and turn out care- fully. Ambrosia. — Take four each oranges and bananas, one pine- apple (canned may be used), quart strawberries and ten tablespoons grated cocoa-nut. Peel the fruit, stem the berries, and place in glass dish a layer of berries, then sliced pine-apples, then oranges cut in small pieces, taking out seeds, then bananas sliced crosswise, adding strawberries here and there, so that they Avill show through the dish ; now another layer of pine-apples, then bananas, then oranges, l^lacing sugar between each layer and over the top, using one and a half pints powdered sugar. Cover with the grated cocoa-nut and over this place a layer of large selected strawberries. Let stand in a cold place for an hour or two before serving. Same can be made with half as many oranges and bananas, omitting cocoa-nut and plac- ing fruits in successive layers, not scattering the strawberries ; or take six sweet oranges, one pine-apple, one large cocoa-nut, grated, and sprinkle pulverized sugar over each layer. Or, use six oranges, six lemons, and two cocoa-nuts, or only oranges and cocoa-nuts, pre- pared as above. Some pour over the orange and cocoa-nuts a half cup each orange and lemon juice, and it is delicious added to any ambrosia. 338 FRUIT. Melons. — These fruits are alwa5'-s served fresh, and should he thoroughly cooled by keeping on ice until just ready to send to the table, and are nicer if left on ice overnight. Garnish -with flowers or green leaves, or arrange a border of the smaller fruits around it. The latter gives a very pretty effect. The Nutmeg Melon is the finest variety. To prepare for the table, wash them and wipe dry, set on the blos- som end, and cut in several equal pieces from satmeg iieion. the stem downward, leaving each alternate piece still attached ; the others may then be loosened, the upper end clipped off and the seeds removed, when the melon is ready to serve, as shown in cut. Or cut off the top of each melon, remove the seeds, fill with powdered ice, replace the to2:)s and send to tal)le as if wliole. Some prefer to serve them cut in halves, with a lump of ice on each. This cools them perfectly and quickly. As a dressing some place a table- spoon honey in each half, but most people like sugar, or a sea- soning of salt and pepper, which is usually sent round Avith them. They are also sometimes served with a salad dressing, when rather insipid and tasteless, though more of a breakfast than a dinner dish. Melon is often sent on after the soup at dinner. For a nice Melon Salad pare rind from a musk or nutmeg melon and slice lengthwise ; cut these slices crosswise as sliced cucumbers, place in bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper and add three or four tablespoons oil or a little molted butter. Let stand half an hour on ice, then add a pinch sugar and a little vinegar, spoonful at a time, simply to moisten without leaving any liquid in bowl. Serve as first course at break- fast heaped in middle of platter, garnished with green. If a melon is found!^ insipid or over ripe, scoop out the I'lulp by spoonfuls in- stead of serving in slices and pass a French dressing with it, which poured over the melon pulp makes a very appetizing dainty. Watermelons must also be tliorougJily chilled by standing on ice several hours and are served as fruit at clessert. The fruit may be cut as illustrated and sent to table on a border of green leaves, when it is served in slices with the rind attached; or clip the ends of the watermelons, cut them across in halves, set upon the clipped ends on a platter, and serve the pulp only, removing it in symmetrical egg- shaped pieces Avith a spoon ; or if very large, cut across in thick slices, and serve in nice triangular shaped pieces ' ^ on the rind. Some season with sugar and some ^"MIWI^IMJ ^ with salt, and some not at all. Watermelons "" have been kept fresh until into the winter by gathering before quite ripe, wrapping in news- paper and packing in sawdust. watermelon. Chestnuts. — To boil chestnuts, shell, and put them into warm water, slightly salted, and cook fast fifteen minutes. Turn off the water through a colander ; stir a good-sized piece of butter into the FRUIT. 339 hot chestnuts, tossing them over and over until glossy and dry. Or put half an ounce aniseed into water enough for fifty chestnuts, and boil, first clipping of the points olT the nuts. Serve on a hot napkin in deep dish. For Stewed Chestnuts^ first roast them and when done, shell and put in a pan with water, allowing quarter of a pint to a pound of sugar and two pounds chestnuts. Stew fifteen min- utes, adding slowly the juice of a lemon. Cocoa-nut — A nice dessert is made by grating a large cocoa-nut into a glass dish, serving with cream, preserves, jellies or jams. Co- coa-nut PuiFs are also nice for dessert. To prepare, break a fine ripe cocoa-nut, lay pieces in cold water, drain and dry well, then grate and put in little heaps on a glass dish. Flatten the heaps in the center so as to make a hollow and fill with preserves. Whip a pint of rich cream to a froth, sweeten and flavor with lemon ; pile this on top of the preserves and serve. The little heaps should not be larger round than a dollar. To Dri/ Cocoa-nut, grate three or four and put in pan with one cup sugar ; steam over a kettle of hot water until the sugar is melted ; set in the oven and stir frequently until dry. Salted Almonds. — Blanch shelled Jordan almonds, place in a bed of salt in dripping pan, put in a rather slow oven, watch care- fully and when browned and nicely flavored, take out. A quantity can be made at a time. Serve as a last course at a dinner or even- ing party. Walnuts and Hickory JVuts. — Crack and pick from shells; sprinkle salt lightly over and serve mixed in same dish. All nuts are much more wholesome Avhen eaten with salt. Dried Fruits. In providing a supply of fruit for winter use, every experienced and economical housekeeper prepares an abundance of dried fruits. Drying is much less expensive than canning or preserving, and fruit wanted for pies, puddings, etc., is better if preserved in this manner, while many prefer the flavor of dried peaches, when properly done, to that of the finest canned fruit. Time and care are both required in its preparation, however, to attain satisfactory results. Always place to dry in the open air when possible, but when much fruit is dried, it is necessary to have a house for the purpose. Small quan- 340 DRIED FRUITS. tities should be so arranged as to be placed near the kitchen fire when taken in at night or during stormy days. Those who have hot-bed sash, can easily arrange a drying apparatus Avhich will dry rapidly and at the same time keep off insects. A hot-bed frame with a bottom to it, and raised above the ground, makes a capital drying box. The sash should be elevated at one end to allow the moisture to pass off, covering the opening with netting. Or the fruit will dry nicely if spread in shallow boxes or box covers, covered with mos- quito netting to prevent flies reaching it. When impossible to dry out of doors, the fruit may be placed on plates and dried in the oven, but care must be taken to prevent scorching. A recently patented convenience is a fruit evaporator for family use, which consists of a rectangular pan of thick tin about two and a half feet long by four- teen inches Avide, with a double bottom. The space between the bottoms is filled with hot water by means of a little pipe that pro- jects to the top of pan from one corner ; the fruit is placed on the upper bottom and the separator is set on the stove or range to keep the water hot. The pan can be moved about on the range, or setoff for a few minutes if wished and the fruit dries rapidly with no dan- ger of burning. Methods of preparing and drying the different fruits are described hereafter. When thoroughly dried, put away in jars in dry places and cover closely, or tie up in paper sacks. The secret of keeping dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dr;/ and cool place. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box lined with paper? are secure against moths. Reheating fruit, which is necessary if it becomes damp, makes it dark in color and impairs its flavor, and should be avoided if possible by keeping in a thoroughly dry place. When ajar or sack of dried fruit is opened, always fill a fruit can or small sack, and keep for present use, to avoid opening often. It is said that dried fruit put away with a little sassafras bark (say a large handful to a bushel) will keep for years unmolested by those troublesome little insects which so often destroy hundreds of bush- els in a single season. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be con- verted into dry preserves by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six DRIED FRUITS. 341 or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept dry in draw-- ers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. Fruits of every kind may be candied by first boiling them in syrup, then take out and dry in a pan on stove or before the fire ; boil the syrup to a candy, dip fruit into it once more, and set to dry. Put into covered boxes or patent jars it will keep a long time. To freshen figs, wash them thoroughly and dry on a towel and^ heat them in the oven ; take out and roll in powdered sugar. In selecting dried currants secure the Zante variet3^ They are not currants but a small seedless grape from the Zante Island, and like all candied and dried fruit, such as citron, lemon and orange peel, etc., should be moist, tender and without crystals of sugar on them. In raisins the Sultanas or Seedless, which come to us from Smyrna, packed in drums, and are of a light amber color, plump and moist, rank first for fine cakes and puddings, but the Valencia are cheaper and more commonly used ; for table, the loose Mus- catels and layer raisins are preferred ; of the latter, the Dehesia Layer is the finest, very large and fancy, the Cabinet Layer, in bunches, stands second, and the London Layer third. All raisins except the Sultanas should be large, plump, tender and fleshy, with a bluish cast and no crystals. The California raisins have a tough skin and large seed, and are not nearly so desirable as foreign importations, but are largely used on account of the very Ioav price. Candied Almonds. — Blanch any quantity of almonds, then fry in butter till a light brown color ; Avipe nicely with a napkin, and put into a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, and boil to a thread — that is, until on taking a drop of the sugar between the finger and thumb it will produce a thread ; care must be taken to boil it to the exact candying-point ; pour it boiling-hot upon the almonds, and stir them till quite cold. An excellent method of preparing almonds or any nuts for dessert. Or simply blanch them, roll while moist in powdered sugar, and place in oven to dry. Candied Apj^les. — Squeeze juice of two or three lemons into preserving kettle. Peel, core and slice small apples ; put into the lemon juice and shake over the fire a minute or two and set aside to 342 DRIED FRUITS. absorb as much juice as possible. AVhen quite cold, put into a syrup of boilinj]; sugar and let simmer until the syrup is turned to sugar again. Take out the fruit and dry. Or peel Golden Pi))pins, or other nice tart ap])les, and put them into a sauce-pan cold water; let them gradually come to a boil, when remove a little from the fire, and as soon as they begin to soften take up and drain. To one quart water in which they were boiled put a pound and a half white sugar ; boil and skim it ; put in the apples, let come to a boil, and take them from syrup ; repeat this operation three or four times and ^put them on a sieve to dry, flatten them gently with the hands, and arrange them in bon-bon boxes. Candied Cherries. — Make a syrup of two pounds loaf sugar and one cup water and boil until thick enough to "pull," as for can- dy. Remove to side of range, and stir until it shows signs of gran- ulating, and it is well to stir frequently while cooking, to secure this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in carefully stoned cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply lie in the boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad dish, and dry in a sunny window. Enough for two quarts cherries. Candied Citron. — Pare the citron, remove seeds, let lay over- night in a weak syrup. Next morning drain through a colander ; and for each pound citron, take a poundAvhite sugar ; boil the sugar until quite a thick syrup is formed, then drop the citron in and cook down thick ; when done, pour out on plates and leave near the stove until dry, then sprinkle with granulated sugar and keep in glass jars. Lemon and orange peel can be prepared in the same way, but with- out laying in syrup overnight. Or, simply boil the citron in water imtil it is clear and soft enough to be easily pierced with a fork ; take out, put in a nice syrup of sugar and water, and boil until the sugar has penetrated it. Take out and spread on dishes to dry slowly, sprinkling several times with powdered sugar, and turning until it is dried enough. Pack in jars or boxes with sugar between the layers. Candied Currants. — To candy currants it is only necessary to dip them into syrup prepared as for Candied Cherries. They are made very nice by sifting powdered sugar over when taken from the syrup. Candied Grapes and Berries prepared same way. Candiea Lemon Peel. — Soak the peels in salt ana water over- night; in the morning freshen in three waters and boil till tender; make a syrup of a quart water to a pound sugar and simmer the peels in it half an hour ; pour into a bowl together and let stand until next day, then make a syrup to cover them of a pound sugar to a pint water for each pound pulp, boiling till it threads ; put the peel into DRIED FRUITS. 343 the syrup, boil half an hour, take out and drain on a sieve, and as the candy dries, transfer to a dish to dry in a warm place. Candied Orange Peel prepared same way. When the orange peel is sliced very thick it is called Orange Citron Candied Peaches. — Peel and slice ripe peaches, make a thin syrup and boil fruit until it looks clear ; lay on a sieve to drain, then roll in dry brown sugar and expose to the sun ; change to dry dishes, dip in sugar again and leave until entirely dried and crys- tallized Candied Tomatoes. — Scald and skin pear-shaped (or any small- sized) tomatoes, and to eight pounds add three pounds brown sugar; cook Avithout water until the sugar penetrates and they have a clear appearance, take out, spread on dishes, and dry in the sun, sprink- ling on a little syrup while drying; pack in jars or boxes, in layers with powdered sugar between. Thus put up they will keep for any length of time, and are nearly equal to figs. Candied Peaches may be prepared in same way. Dried Apples. — Take only good, sound fruit, pare, quarter and core and slice lengthwise ; spread in the sun or fruit evaporator to dry, or run them on strings and hang near kitchen fire. A piece of coarse muslin or net stretched over a frame and hung from the ceil- ing, may also be used for drying. When found that winter apples are not keeping well it is an excellent plan to begin drying at once to prevent waste, and despite the prejudice against dried apples, the fruit so put up at home may be made with a little painstaking into sauce and pies that Avill be eaten with a relish in the spring when fruit is scarce and high. Dried Apple Sauce. — Look over dried apples carefully ana soak until tender in enough cold water to cover, allowing for swelling. The old-fashioned dried apple requires soaking overnight, or for several hours ; the delicate sliced dried apple, sold as "evaporated apple," requires only about fifteen minutes, in just water enough to cover. The former must be carefully washed before soaking, but the sliced apple is perfectly clean. Boil in the water it was soaked in, stead- ily and slowly, and stir often, keeping closely covered. Break up the dried rind of an orange for every quart of apple, and boil Avith it. When soft, like jam, take off and rub through sieve. ^ Sweeten to taste and sei-A-e cold. Some like to season highly with cinnamon. To prepare C{uickly, soak fifteen minutesinclean warm water ; drain, cover with cold soft Avater, place on the stove, let boil slowly two to four hours, mash fine, sweeten and season with cinnamon very highly. For a nice sauce with raisins, put two pounds dried apples and one pound raisins in a crock with plenty of water and set on back of stove. Let boil slowly all day. When almost done add a lemon 344 DRIED FRUITS. peeled and sliced very thin and two pounds sugar. Never add sugar until about five minutes before remo'vdng from the stove, otherwise the fruit will be toughened and hardened. A nice way of serving is to raise a border of dried apples prepared as in first recipe above, in a large dish or ice cream saucer, as the case may be, fill the hol- low middle with boiled custard and spread a meringue of sweetened and whipped whites of eggs on top. Brown with hot salamander or shovel. Black Apple Sauce is made Avith dried apples and dried black raspberries stewed together. Soak both separately overnight in water to cover. Stew the apples in water soaked in, until half done, then add raspberries, without the juice, and w}:ien both are nearly done sweeten to taste and simmer gently a few moments longer. Dried Bananas. — A method for drying bananas has been pat- ented in Jamaica, and they may now be purchased in the larger cities. The fruit retains its flavor in a remarkable degree. The banana is cut in half lengthwise and dried slowly, which prevents fermentation and decay. They are prepared for use as other dried fruits. Dried Blackherries. — Dry in the sun, or fruit evaporator, or in the oven, like apples, being careful when drying in oven not to scorch them in the least. Dried thus, blackberries make excellent pies and are better if not stewed for this purpose. If simply put in the crust with sufficient water and sugar and a very little flour they will be found to cook quickly and retain their fresh flavor in a remarkable degree. Some prefer, however, to -dry them with sugar, allowing a pound sugar to eight or ten quarts berries ; put over the fire with a half pint water and bring slowly to boiling point ; then skim out berries and spread on plates to dry, pouring the juice over, a little on each plate Dried Rasvherries may be preDared after either method. Dried Cherries. — Clierries may be put into a slow oven and thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. Bo careful that the oven is not too hot. They should then be taken nut, tied in bunches and stowed away in a dry place. Nice cooked with sugar for winter dessert. Another method of drying is to stone them and put into a preserving kettle with plenty of sugar, about five table- spoons to each quart; simmer till the fruit shrivels, Avhen it should be strained from the juice. Place the cherries in an oven cool f'uough to dry without baking them. The same syrup may be used to do another quantity of fruit, though some boil the syrup until very thick and pour it over the fruit as it dries, a little at a time. Pack in jars and paste paper over the top. An excellent method of drying both cherries and curiYtnts is to put in jars first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, in the proportion of half a pound sugar to pound fruit and let stand overnight ; place them to boil, skim- DRIED FRUITS. 345 ming off all scum, let boil ten or fifteen minutes, skim out and spread on dishes to dry in the sun, or by the fire, turning frequently until dry ; then place on pans in oven, stirring with the hand often until the heat is too great to bear. They may theii be packed in jars with sugar, or put away in paper sacks, or stone crocks with a cloth tied closely over the top, and are an excellent substitute for raisins in puddings or mince pies. To dry cherries without sugar, stone, and set them over the fire in the preserving pan ; let them simmer in their own liquor, and shake them in the pan Put them in common china dishes ; next day scald again and when cold put on sieves to dry in moderate oven. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do them. Put away in a box with a paper between each layer. Dried Currants. — Take one pint sugar to a ])int stemmed ripe currants ; put them together in a porcelain kettle, a layer of cur- rants at the bottom; when sugar is dissolved, let boil one or two minutes, skim from the syrup, and spread on plates to dry in a partly cooled oven. Boil the syrup until thickened, pour it over the cur- rants, and dry it with them. Pack in jars and cover closely. Black- hsrries ma}' be dri^d in the same manner. An economical way of making jelly is to boil the liquid after currants are taken out, skim- ming well, until it becomes a jelly, and put away in jelly glasses. Dried Gooseberries. — To seven pounds goose Derries add a pound and a half of powdered sugar, strewing it over them in preserving kettle. Let remain over a slow fire till the}' begin to break, and then remove. Repeat this process two or three days ; then take the gooseberries from the syrup and spread out on sieves in the sun or near the fire to dry, The syrup may be used for other preserves. When quite dry put aAvay in tin boxes on layers of paper. They will keep in this Avay all winter, and may be used for pies, tarts, etc. Driea Greengages. — Procure fruit before quite ripe and leave stems on. AVeigh, and allow a pound sugar and one-fourth pint water to each pound fruit, boil to a rich syrup, skim, put in the fruit and boil ten minutes, take from fire and drain the fruit ; next day boil the syrup and put in the fruit, and continue the process five or six days ; after draining the last time, place the greengages on a hair sieve and set in oven or other warm spot to dry ; keep in a box, with paper between each layer, in a dry place. Dried Peaches. — In preparing peaches for drying, if peeled at all do it by immersing for an instant in hot water as directed in Canning Fruits. It is said that in peaches, as in potatoes, the best of the fruit lies nearest the skin, and for this reason some never peel peaches for any purpose but rub them thoroughly with a woolen cloth. Dried peaches are better when halved and the cavities sprinkled with sugar while drying. The fruit must be good, however, as poor 346 DRIED FRUITS. fruit can not be redeemed by any process. Another excellent way is to dry them in the oven, and, when about half done, place in a crock a layer of peaches alternately with a layer of sugar; tie papers over them and set away. Dried Peach Sauce. — Prepare as Dried Apple Sauce, but do not mash or season so highly. Cook in porcelain, without stirring, and sweeten to taste just before taking from fire. Very nice sweet- ened with maple sugar. Dried Pineapple. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, place it on dishes, strew over plenty of granulated sugar, and keep in a hot closet or very slow oven eight or ten days, turning the fruit every day until dry. Then put the slices on tins and set them in a quick oven for ten minutes. Let cool and put away in dry boxes with paper between each layer. Dried Plums. — Select perfect fruit, just ripe but not soft, wipe and stone and put in a porcelain kettle with a quarter pound sugar for every pound fruit. Heat slowly to extract the juice and scald thoroughly, but without boiling. Skim tUf plums out with a coarse wire skimmer and spread carefully on platters; more plums may be scalded in same syrup, and when all are done boil the syrup until c[uite thick and pour over the plums ])lactd to dry. Dry as quickly as possible. Some gather plums when full grown and just turning color and dry them whole. Prick the fruit, to prevent burst- ing, put into a saucepan cold water and set on fire until at boiling point; then take out, drain, and boil gently in syrup, made in pro- portion of one-fourth pint Avater to every pound sugar. If the plums shrink and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan, give them another boil and set them away. Next day add more sugar boiled almost to candy ; put all together in wide-mouthed jar and place in cool oven for two nights. Tlien drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over and dry in a cool oven. Prunes. — Look over and wash nice French prunes ; simmer gently in plenty of water, with a small stick cinnamon and a table- spoon strong vinegar to a pound of fruit, for at least six hours, and Avhen thus thoroughly done, add just enough brown sugar to slightly sweeten them and thicken juice with a very little corn starch wet up in cold water ; or in place of vinegar use a quarter teaspoon cream tartar mixed with corn starch, let prunes just boil and remove from stove. This makes a most delicious sauce and when nearly done a few kernels extracted from the prune stones, dropped in the juice, give a delicate flavor. Broimed Prunes. — Soak prunes overnight in cold water, boil until tender, not allowing them to break, and take out the pits. DRIED FRUITS. 347 Grate some chocolate, mix it with three ounces powdered sugar and beaten whites of three eggs. Dip the prunes one by one in the mix- ture, and put them, without allowing them to touch, on a buttered tin. Bake fifteen minutes and serve hot. Prune Tapioca. — Soak half pint tapioca in one quart water three or four hours, keeping it just tejDid, add juice of a lemon, and a little grated rind, three-fourths cup sugar and boil till clear, stir- ring occasionally. Place one and half pints stewed, sweetened and seededprunes, without juice, in dish and cover with the tapioca. When cold cover with some Mdiipped cream and serve. Or for Cherry Tap- ioca^ place two cups dried cherries or three of stoned fresh ones, cooked and sweetened, in dish, cover with the boiled tapioca, and if "wished, stir together and put in a mold ; then serve with whipped sweetened cream. Prune Whip. — Sweeten to taste and stew three-quarters pound prunes ; when perfectly cold^ add whites of four eggs beaten stiff; stir all together till light, put in a dish, and bake twenty minutes ; when cold, serve in a larger dish, and cover well with good cream. Dried Fruit in Cakes. — Any fruit may be preserved by dry- ing as follows : To every pound fruit allow half pound sugar, Avith a little water. When water and sugar are heated, take fruit in skim- mer, and dip it for about a minute into the sugar, then spread it on tins. After all the fruit has been done thus, boil down the sugar to a rich, thick syru]), and pour it over the fruit. The fruit must now l)e put either in the sun, or in a warm oven, till it is in a dried ge- latinous condition. Let remain till quite dry, when put in bags, di- viding it into cakes. These cakes will keep a long time, and when wanted for use, merely require a little hot water put to them, and probably extra sugar. Fruit Pastes. — iThese are really candied fruits in another form. Care must be taken in cooking not to scorch them. For an Apple Paste., peel and core sound, ripe apples and put in water until quite soft ; then rub through a puree sieve with a wooden spoon, weigh the pulp and put in a preserving kettle with same weight of sugar and boil twenty minutes ; pour out thin on plates or in molds and dry on a cool stove or in a cool oven. Or, put an equal weight of ap- ples and stoned plums into a preserving pan. Boil without adding any water. When the fruit begins to get soft add a pound sugar to each pound pulp. Boil slowly for an hour, and pour into shallow molds ; place these in a slow oven, when the preserve will dry un- til it resembles a Fruit Cheese. To make an Apricot Paste., take ripe apricots, and put them in a preserving-pan with a little sugar, place on the side of the fire to reduce to paste, then rub through a hair sieve, allowing a half pound sifted sugar to every pound pulp. Put 348 DRIED FRUITS. it on the fire and boil ten minutes. Spread on tins to dry. Make Peach Paste the same, coolcing ten minutes longer. For Currant Paste, take either red or white currants, rub through a sieve, after having picked them over thoroughly ; put the mashed fruit in a pan over the fire, stirring until it forms a paste ; remove it, and to every pound i)ulp put one and quarter pounds fine sugar. Mix together, and boil twenty minutes ;spreaart of birds. "When birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon as possible and im- merse in new milk for twenty-four hours, when they will be quite sweet and fit for cooking. Prairie chickens will keep well two or three days. Birds should be carefully dry-picked if feathers are wished, and if the wings arc wanted, cut them off at the first joint be- fore picking. Some then remove all feathers that come off easily, plunge for an instant in])oiling hot water, and finish picking ; while others do not put in water at all. When picked, singe, draw, wipe clean and remove all shot. Or, a quicker, easier and much nicer way is to skin without picking ; if the skin is not broken make a small incision in tlie Inick and it will easily pull off. It is better not to skin ducks and geese, Avhich should be dry-picked, scalded, and rolled in a woolen cloth ten or fifteen minutes; then finish picking and scrape the skin if necessary. Singe, draw and dress. Singeing with alco- hol is much nicer and cleaner than with paper and does not darken the skin. Pour four or five tablespoons in a pan, light it and hold game over it. If more alcohol is wished, do not add till all is con- sumed. Game should not be washed, unless absolutely necessar}' for cleanliness. With care in dressing, wiping inside with a damp cloth will render them perfectly clean. If necessary to wash, do it riuickly and use as little water as possible. Some wash the inside of game, particularly prairie chickens, with soda and water, rinsing well with clear water, then dry with cloth. The more plainly all kinds of wild birds are cooked the better they retain their fine flavor. They require a brisker fire than poultry, but take less time to cook. Their color, when done, should be a fine yellowish brown. Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and all birds are exceedingly nice roasted, especially quail. To broil, split down the back, open and flatten the breast bone by covering with a cloth GAME. 351 and pounding, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron ; tnrn as soon as browned, and when almost done take off, place on a platter, sprinkle with salt, and return to the gridiron. When done, place in a hot dish, butter both sides well and serve at once. The time required is usually about twenty minutes. Broiling is the simplest of all forms of cooking and may be done well with a little attention. A brisk, clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with ease, but if necessary to have a high fire for other cooking, elevate the gridiron on two bricks to prevent scorching. Have the gridiron very hot and butter it before putting on the birds. If the fire is not very clear, and a flat broiler or 'gridiron is used, put a cover over the meat to prevent blackening or burning. It is well to always do this with birds or chickens, which are otherwise apt to be rare at the joints. It is a good plan to put birds in a hot oven about ten min- utes before broiling, and lay a spoonful drawn butter on the breast of each. If very dry dip in melted butter, or, better still, oil them all over before cooking. There is nothing more unsightly than a dish of sprawling chickens or birds, and to serve them in good form they should be nicely placed in the broiler, with the bones broken as above. To Roast Game. — Rub inside with salt and pepper and place a lump of butter in each bird. Truss the same as poultry, skewer and place on spit before an open fire, or, as is more usually done, roast in oven. Some still prefer the old way of leaving the head on and tucking under the wing, but this is not much practiced now. Cut off the head, push the skin down and cut off the neck, then draw the skin smoothly over and fasten to the back. The flavor is best pre- .served without stuffing, but a plain bread-dressing with a piece of salt pork or ham skewered on the breast is very nice. A delicate way of dressing small birds is to place an oyster dipped in the well- beaten yolk of an egg or in melted butter, and then rolled in Ijread crumbs, inside each bird. Allow thirty minutes to roast, or longer if stuffed. Wild ducks, pheasants, prairie chickens and grouse are always best roasted. Do not sprinkle the outside of game or any meat with salt or pepper before putting in oven, as salt draws out the juices, the flavor of pepper is entirely changed by the parch- ing on the surface, and it also emits an unpleasant odor. This ap- plies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper the bird after it is cooked, using white pepper. Baste often, every five or ten minutes, 352 GAME. with molted butter, hot water and butter or the drippings in the pan, and to give a handsome frothy appearance, when nearly done baste with butter, dredge over with flour and brown, baste with but- ter again, close the oven a few moments and the bird will come out beautifully finished. Use an empty spice-box with perforated top for dredging and a brush or spoon for basting ; the brush is espe- cially nice for putting over the melted butter in frothing. To keep hot while making the gravy, place in a pan on a trivet in the oven, or in a colander lined with soft paper, and if in danger of becomim; too brown, cover with another pan, or a paper cap kept for tlie i)ur- pose. Larding game is a very nice way of preparing it for roasting, and will be found fully described in Meats. To Steam Game^ prepare as for roasting, place in steamer and steam until tender. The length of time will of course depend upon size and kind of game. When tender put in oven to brown, baste, and finish as in roasting. As the meat of most game is rather dry, this is an excellent mode of cooking, the steaming making it more moist. To Fry Game, prepare small birds as for roasting, and cut up the larger ones. Small birds maybe double-breaded (see Croquettes) and dropped whole into hot fat, others cut up and fried in joints. Pigeons and the birds of coarser flesh will need to be parboiled if fried thus. Half drippings and half lard make a good frying mixture. Some prefer to roll game in corn meal and fry in butter, or half but- ter and half drippings, in frying pan, and it is excellent either way but presents a finer appearance when fried by immersion. Pigeons should be cooked a long time, as they are usually quite lean and tough, and they are better to lie in salt water half an hour, or to be parboiled in it for a fcAV minutes. Wild duck should be cooked rare, with or without stufting. If the "wild flavor" of the larger birds, such as pheasants, prairie chickens, etc., is disliked, thcv may be soaked overnight in salt water, or two or three hours in soda and water, or parboiled with an onion or two in the water, and then cooked as desired. The coarser kinds of game, such as geese, ducks, etc., may lie in salt water for several hours, or be par- boiled in it with an onion inside each to absorb the rank flavor, and afterwards thoroughly rinsed in clear water, stufled and roasted ; or pare a fresh lemon without breaking the thin, white, inside skin, put inside the game for a day or two, renewing the lemon every GAME. 353 twelve hours. This will absorb unpleasant flavors from almost all meat and game. Some lay slices of onion over game while cook- ing, and remove before serving, and others baste two or three times at first with hot water, to which an onion and a little salt have been added. Use plenty of butter in cooking. In preparing fat wild ducks for invalids, it is a good plan to remove the skin, and keep a day or two before cooking. Squirrels should be carefully skinned and laid in salt water a short time before cooking; if old, parboil. They are delicious broiled, and are excellent cooked in any way with thin slices of bacon. Venison, as in the days of good old Isaac, is still justly considered a "savoury dish." The haunch, neck, shoulder and saddle should be roasted ; roast or broil the breast, and fry or broil steaks with slices of salt pork, and it may be cooked in almost the same manner as beef, but requires longer cooking, must be sent to table very hot, and is generally preferred very rare. ' Venison is not so delicate when fresh as after it has been kept from three to eight days. When not consumed at once keep in a dark cool cellar with a cloth round it. The hams are excellent pickled, smoked and dried, but they will not keep so long as other smoked meats. French cooks improve the flavor of venison by putting the meat in a jar for several days with one pint vinegar to every six pounds meat, two bay leaves, two cloves, some garlic and onion sliced, thyme, parsley and whole pepper-corns. Let this mixture boil once, then pour it over the meat, and turn occasionally while it stands in the jar. Cutlets prepared this way are much better. The seasonings are spread over them, they are then wrapped in buttered paper and broiled over a quick fire. Bear meat, especially the flesh of young bear, nearly resembles a good quality of beef, and may be fried, broiled, roasted, or cooked like beef in any way preferred. Many lard it for roasting, and the time required is about twenty minutes to the pound. The meat of young buffalo is also much like that of fat beef and may be cooked as fresh beef. Any kind of game may be hashed and the flavor may be varied by adding flavored vinegars, curry powder, etc. ; but we do not recommend these ingredients, as a dish of game should really taste of game ; and if too many sauces, essences, etc., are added to the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavor. In warming ever cold game, do not cook too long — merely heat through or bring 354 GAME. to the boil, but do not boil. In serving game the beauty of the dish is greatly enhanced by a garnish of green leaves, or other things mentioned with the recipes, but this is not a necessity. Epicures generally do not consider game ripe for cooking until more or less tainted, and prefer it cooked very rare, barely more than warmed through. Small birds are also often roasted or made into pies with- out drawing, or removing the trail as it is called, and are esteemed very dainty by the epicures, among Avhom, hoAvever, are numbered very few of our excellent American housekeepers. Boiled Wild Duck. — Dress and rub well inside with salt and pepper, truss and tie in shape, drawing the logs in to the body, in which put one or two sage leaves, a little finely-chopped onion, and a little jellied stock or gravy ; rub over with salt and pepper; make a paste' in the proportion of one-half pound l)Utter to one pound flour, in which inclose the duck, tie a cloth around all, and boil two hours or until quite tender, keeping it well covered with boiling water. Serve by pouring round it brown gravy made as follows : Put a lump of butter size of an egg in a saucepan with a little minced onion ; cook until slightly brown, then add a small ta])le- spoon flour, stir well, and when quite brown add a half pint stock or water ; let cook a few minutes, strain and add to the chopped giblets, previously stewed till tender. Broiled Wild Z)?/.<-A'.— Carefully pluck a pair of ducks, singe, wipe them with a wet towel, split down the back, and remove the entrails without breaking; put the birds between the bars of a but- tered gridiron, place the inside to the fire, and broil them until brown ; then brown the outside, season with* salt and cayenne, jnit a verv little butter over the birds, and serve with orange salad or jelly. For Baked Wild Duck prepare in same manner and bake in hot oven till tender, placed in a drippinsr ])an with a little butter. When half (lone season with salt and just before removing from oven ju'p- p<^r and serve with the gravy from pan and a dish of eurrant jelly or d.impon jam. Hashed Wild Duck. — Cut remains cold roast duck into neat joints, ]»ut them into a stewpan with one pint good 1)rown gravy, two tablespoons bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste and a tablespoon lemon or Seville orange juice : let them heat graduallv. stirring occasionally; when on the ]>oint of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with croutons of toasted bread. Baffout of Wild Z);/c/.'.— Ducks that have l)een dressed and left from the preceding day will answer for this dish. Cut into joints; GAME. 365 reserve the legs, wings and breasts until wanted ; put the trimmings into a stewpan with four shallots and a pint stock, simmer about half an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a tablespoon butter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in a little Hour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones ; boil and strain again ; add juice of half a lemon and cayenne and salt to taste ; lay in the pieces of duck, and gradually warm through, but do not boil, or the meat will be hard. The gravy should not be too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great im- provement to this dish. Roast Wild Duck. — The peculiar flavor of wild ducks is not liked by many and may be removed by parboiling with a carrot or an onion before roasting, having first singed them, wiped well the in- side with wet towel and cut off head. When tender stuff with a bread-dressing seasoned with salt, pejiper, onion and sage ; roast be- fore a brisk fire or in oven, basting often, until brown and tender. When the ducks are taken up, skim and thicken the gravy with browned flour and send to table in a tureen. Serve currant or grape jelly with the ducks. Instead of the stuffing, a simple dressing of parboiled onions mixed with chopped sage, salt, pepper and a good slice of butter may be employed, or stuff with chopped celery or mashed potatoes and when brown season with salt and pepper. It M'ill take about three-quarters of an hour to roast ducks well ; twenty minutes will do them rare. When preferred rare it is best not to stuff" them. Cut an onipn in two and put in the body, then truss or bind, dredge with salt, pepper and cloves and roast in quick oven thirty minutes or before a hot fire forty, basting often. Serve with currant jelly or equal parts currant jelly and dry mustard mixed, or with garnish of fried hominy and currant jelly, or apple sauce and green peas. Teal can be cooked like Wild Duck. Many cooks stuff them with a bread and onion dressing, but this spoils their flavor ; it is better to serve an onion and bread sauce with them, if liked. The birds should be quickly roasted or baked in a hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes, as the}'' are liked medium or well done. Season with pepper and salt and serve a sliced lemon or fresh green salad with them. Steived Wild Duck. — Cut up and parboil fifteen minutes with a carrot or onion ; cut intu joints, put in a steAvpan and cover with a gravy made of the giblets, neck, etc. ; season with salt and pepper, a bunch sweet herbs and chopped onions, and steAV gently till done.. Take up the meat, thicken the gravy with lirowned flour, boil up once, pour over the duck and serve immediately. Or for a Ste2U until Green Peas., parboil, or half roast, then put into a stewpan with a pint water, or beef gravy, a few chopped mint and sage leaves, pep- per, salt and half an onion chopped very fine. Cook fifteen minutes and skim out the herbs ; then add a quart green peas and cook half 866 GAME. hour longer. Stir in a tablespoon each butter and flour, boil up once, and serve with the duck in center of dish and peas arouna. Some prefer to cook the peas separately and serve rounded up in center with the joints around. Some stuff and roast the ducks twenty minutes then take out and stew as above. Duck Stewed loith Bice is liked by many. To prepare, quickly brown the duck in a hot oven; meantime peel an onion, chop it fine, and put into a saucepan with heaping tablespoon butter; when the duck is brown, cut in joints, put with the butter an onion, and fry all together till ihe onion is brown ; then stir in a tablespoon Hour and brown it, .ndd a pint of boiling water, a high seasoning of salt and })epper, and half a cup of rice which has been picked over and w'ashed. Cover and cook all gently half an hour, being careful not to burn. If rice absorbs all the Avater, add more as required, but do not make very moist. When both rice and duck are tender, serve them together. The remains of a cold roast duck may be made into a stew with a pint gravy and a little sage ; cover closely, and simmer half an hour ; add a pint boiled green peas, stew a few minutes, remove to a dish, and pour over it the gravy and peas. Salmi of Duck. — Save remnants of cold duck or other game, trim meat*oft' neatly, set aside; place all the remains (bones, gravy, etc.,) in a saucepan and cover with cold water; bring gently to a boil ; skim, add an onion that has been cut up and fried brown {)iot hurned) ; simmer gently for about an hour, then set saucepan in a cool place long enougli^to allow the fat to rise and '"settle on top ;" skim this off carefully — it will be nice to fry potatoes with. Now return saucepan to fire, and when about to l)oil strain off liquid ; set on again, add salt and skim. If the liquid looks cloudy, let it boil up, throw in a little cold water, and the scum will rise. Now Eut in the pepper and such spice as may be desired, also a bunch of erbs tied up in a juece of muslin, or very finely powdered. Take a large spoon of flour that has been baked in the oven and kept for gravy, mix it well Avith a lump of Dutter same size, put this and the meat all in together and stir well until it is just ready to boil again, but see that it does not boil; cover closely and set back where it may keep veri/ hot without cooking. The safest plan is to put the saucepan in a vessel of hot water for ten or fifteen minutes. Boctfit Wild Goose. — Dry pick, as feathers are especially choice, and ifijossible pick clean, as meat is nicer if not scalded, but if all •cannot be removed, plunge in boiling water, wrap quickly in a woolen cloth and let stand fifteen minutes, when finish i)icking and scrape with a knife to better clean the skin, singe with alcohol, draw, wash or wipe clean andparboil with an onion inside (a large onion to an eighr-pound goose) in slightly salted boiling water till commenc- ing to be tender, half an hour for a young goose, longer if an old one. Take out, rub inside with salt and pepper and stuff with a Bread- GAME. 857 Dressing as given in first recipe for Roast Turkey, or as follows : Quart finely minced bread-crumbs, tablespoon minced onion, level teaspoon each salt, pepper, sage and chopped parsley if liked, one egg, half cup warm water, half cup butter or fat from fried sausage; mix ingredients all together in a pan, not making the dressing too moist, as it will absorb gravy while baking. The egg should be first mixed Avith the water. Or stuff with a Potato- Dressing made as follows : Mash six boiled potatoes through a colander, and add two teaspoons each butter and onion juice, and one each salt, white pepper and sage ; or first chop an onion and fry a light yellow in the butter, and add the potato and a well-beaten egg. Or for an Onion- Dressing^ peel four large onions, put into boiling water, let simmer five or ten minutes and just before they are taken out put in ton sage leaves for a minute or two to take off" their rawness, skim out and chop very Une, add quarter pound bread-crumbs, seasoning, and two tablespoons butter, and work the whole together with yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and many do not parboil the onions, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then is not nearly so mild. This is nice for either goose, ducks or pork. If for goose add the liver, first simmered a few moments and then very finely minced. Or, boil in water to cover four apples, peeled and cored, four onions, sage and thyme leaves. When done, pulp through a sieve, removing leaves ; then add enough pulp of mealy potatoes to cause stuffing to be so dry as not to stick to hand. Season with pepper and salt. For a Fruit-Dress- ing^ stew one pound prunes as in recipe for stewed prunes, using as lit- tle water as possible, and add to them same quantity of tart npple sauce and a few raisins if liked, and let stew together till quite dry, adding sugar to taste (some prefer twice as much apple sauce as prunes) ; stuff as above or, when bread-dressing is used, it is very nice to garnish with spoonfuls of this around the goose ; or omit prunes and use teacup raisins, using raisins also in the gravy ; or take three quarters pound pulp of tart apples, which have been previously baked or steamed, add two ounces bread-crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely chop- ped onion, and season with a little cayenne pepper. After goose is stuffed, sew up and tie in shape as described in recipe for roast tur- key. Place in oven on dripping pan, on a trivet or pieces of hard wood, with a little of the water in which goose Avas parboiled ; put bits of butter or slices of fat salt pork over the goose, and to make extra nice, unless very fat, add a little butter to the drippings each time of basting, which will want to be every ten minutes, adding more of the parboiled water as needed. Where the onion flavor is an objection, simply put hot water in the roasting pan. When al- most done baste with melted butter, dredge with flour, let brown, then a little more butter till nicely frothed and browned. Some claim that a specially nice way to roast is to begin by basting with a teacup cider ; then, when it begins to warm, dredge with flour ; 358 GAME. afterwards baste with its own fat and grav}', mixing with the cider. In either way, when browned, place in pan in oven, as directed, till gravy is made, using the giblets in the same manner, if good, as for Roast Turkey, adding also the parboiled water from the goose. Those liking onion flavor can slice onion when used in parboiling, putting some slices inside goose and some in kettle, and leave all in the waler for the gravy. Place goose on hot platter, made hot by pouring hot water upon it, being careful to pour in center first; gar- nish with a l^order of baked, cored, tart apples, being careful not to have them burstcd. Always serve apple sauce with goose. Wild Duck can be prepared in same Avay. Goose, duck and all game, being rather dry, are especially nice larded, but placing pieces of salt pork on them while cooking answers the same purpose, but docs not present the handsome appearance when served as does a Larded Goose. Smoked Goose. — Split the goose down the back, rubbing it well with quarter ounce saltpetre, afterwards salting with common salt, and rubbing with coarse brown sugar; let it lie in pickle for about ten days if it be summer, but fourteen if winter ; rub it and turn it regularly every day, roll in saw-dust, and smoke it. The breast alone is nice prepared as above. Any wild game can be prepared in like manner. Braised Grouse. — Clean thoroughly, washing out the inside in soda and water, and then rinsing and wiping. Truss, but do not stuff the birds ; tie them in shape. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork ; lay the grouse upon these ; sprinkle minced onion and parsley over them, with pepper, salt and a little sugar. Cover them with more pork, and pour in a large cup of soup stock, or other broth. Cover very closely ; simmer one hour; turn the birds and cook — always covered — until tender. Dish the grouse, strnin the gravy, thicken with browned flour, boil up and pour into gravy-boat. Patridges and Wild Pijeons may also be cooked in this way. Roast Grouse. — Clean and wash the birds Jard breast and legs run a skewer into the legs and through the tail, and tie firmly with tAvine. Drodgewith salt, rub the breast with soft butter and dredge thickly with ilour. Put into a quick oven and cook twenty minutes if M'antod very rare ; if Avished better done, thirty minutes. Baste often. Serve on toast wliich has been soaked in the dri])ping-]ian and buttered, or on bread sauce sprinkled with fried bread-crumbs, and garnish with parsley. Or clean, truss, and stuff the birds ; cover with thin slices of corned ham, binding all Avith buttered pack thread. Roast three-quarters of an hour, basting with butter and water three times, then with the dripping. When quite done, dish with the ham laid about the body of the bird. Skim the gravy, thicken with browned flour, and season Avith pepper and the juice of GAME. 359 a lemon. Or put a tablespoon butter in each bird, then lay each one, covered with strips of bacon, on a slice of dry toast in the drip- ping-pan ; as soon as they begin to get at all dry moisten them well with stock, and baste and turn them several times. Serve on a hot platter garnished with parsley or cress, and the toast (which will be delicious) cut in points. Grouse Pie. — Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound rump- steak cut into neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints ; but if small, they may be laid in the pie whole ; season highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper; pour in a half pint broth, and cover with a puff paste; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake about an hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy, by stew- ing them with an onion, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace ; this should be poured in after the pie is baked Grouse Salad. — Boil eight eggs hard, throw them into cold water and shell, cut a thin slice off the bottom so they will stand in dish, cut each one into four pieces, lengthwise, and make a very thin flat border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad is to be served on ; place the pieces of egg upright, close to each other, the yolk outside, or the 3'olk and white alternately ; lay in the center a fresh green salad of whatever is in season, and, hav- ing previously roasted the grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as follows : Put one tablespoon chopped shallot or onion into a bowl with two table- spoons sugar, the yolk of an egg, a teaspoon minced parslev, tea- spoon and half salt, and stir in gradually four tablespoons Chili vinegar and twelve of oil ; when all ingredients are well mixed put the sauce on ice or in a cool place. When read}' to serve, whip four tablespoons cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it; then lay inferior parts of grouse on the salad, put sauce over so as to cover each piece, then add more salad and the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be orna- mented with a little dot of radishes or beet-root on the point. An- chovy -and gherkin, cut into small diamonds may be placed be- tween ; or cut gherkins in slices, and use as a border. The remains of Cold Pheasant or Partridge ma}' be used in same manner, and will make a very delicate dish. Grouse SandwicJies. — Chop cold grouse very fine, and then pound in a mortar, or rub through a sieve with a potato-masher; mix the pounded meat with an equal quantity currant jell}^, and put it between thin slices of bread without crust. Or cut the meat in small thin slices, and put it between leaves of lettuce laid on thin slices of buttered bread ; the lettuce leaves may be dipped in plain salad-dressing, made by mixing three tablespoons salad oil with one 360 GAME. of vinegar, and a seasoning of salt and pepper, or sauce of currant jelly and mustard may be used. Jugged Hare. — Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water, to remove the loose hairs, dry thoroughly and cut in pieces, strew with pepper and salt, fry brown, season with two anchovies, a sprig of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and grated lemon peel. Put a layer of the pieces with the seasoning into a wide-mouthed jug or jar, then a layer of bacon sliced very thin, and so on till all is used ; add a scant half pint of water, cover the jug close and put in cold water, let boil three or four hours, according to the age of the hare; take the jug out of kettle, pick out the un- melted bacon and make a gravy of a little butter and flour with a little catsup. A teaspoon of lemon peel Avill heighten the flavor. Roast Hare. — Have the hare skinned and well cleaned, stuff as fowl, with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, chopped fat pork, a little Bweet majoram, onion, pepper and salt, just moistened with hot water. Sew up with fine cotton, tie legs closely to the body in a kneeling position, lay in dripping-pan, back uppermost, pour two cups boiling water over it, cover with another pan and bake, closely covered — except when basting with butter and water — for three quar- ters of an hour. Uncover, baste freely with the gravy until nicely browned; dredge with flour and baste with butter until a fine froth appears on the surface. Take up hare, put in another pan on a trivet or rack and place in oven while gravy is being made. Skim that left in the pan, add water if necessary, season, thicken with browned flour, stir in tablespoon currant jelly and some chopped parsley, boil up, pour a few spoonfuls of it over the hare, and serve the rest in a gravy-boat. Clip the threads and send the hare in with currant jelly around it, as this is an indispensable accompaniment. Some baste well with milk for a short time, and afterwards with but- ter, basting often so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish, remove the twine, and send to table with a little gravy in dish, and a gravy-boat of same. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for milk and butter in basting, which must be continued almost Avithout inter- mission. If liver is good, it may be parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing ; but it should not be used unless quite fresh. The Jack Rabbit of our western prairies is said to be closely akin to the much prized English hare and equally as fine eating. Some broil slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the flesh, then cover with slices of fat pork from the neck to the legs, roast it for an hour, and serve with sharp sauce to which has been added the chopped liver. Landrails — After birds have been drawn they should be wiped very clean with a damp cloth. They must be continuously basted CAME. 361 with butter, and will take about fifteen minutes to cook. Put them on a layer of fried bread-crumbs on an exceedingly hot dish. Send to table with a tureen of bread sauce, and one of good gravy. This is a nice side dish. Hashed Partridge. — Take three partridges ^d after they are. plucked and drawn, roast rather underdone, covering with paper, as they should not be browned ; cut into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs and breasts ; put these into a stewpan, cover and set by until gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put into a stewpan with a sliced carrot, three or four mushrooms, three sliced shallots, a bunch of savory herbs, two cloves, and six whole peppers, and fry lightly in a little butter, pour in three-fourths pint stock, add the bones and trimmings from the partridges, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain the gravy, let cool, and skim off every particle of fat ; put it to the legs, wings, and breasts ; let all gradually warm through on back of stove, and when on the poijit of boiling, serve, garnishing the dish with crou- tons. The remains of roast partridge do very well dressed in this way, although not so good as when the birds are only half roasted. This recipe is equally good for Pheasants, Prairie Chickens, etc., but care must be taken always to skin the joints. Potted Partridge. — Pluck and draw the partridges and wipe inside with a damp cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper and salt, mix together and rub every part of the birds with this. Pack as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over, and cover with a coarse flour-and-watcr crust. Tie a paper over this, and bake rather more than one and a half hours ; let the birds get cold, then cut into pieces for keeping, pack closely in large potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a cool dry place. The butter used for potting game will answer for basting, or for paste for meat-pies. Eoast Partridge. — Clean and wash out the inside with soda water, afterwards rinsing in fresh water. Unjoint the legs at the first joint, truss and cover breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork, tying the pork on with twine. Place the partridge on its back in the baking-pan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut on it ; set it in a quick oven, baste often with butter and serve on a dish sur- rounded by bread-crumbs fried brown and arranged in small heaps ; pour over the bird a gravy made from the drippings in pan thickened with browned flour and flavored with lemon juice. Or spread thin slices of ham or bacon over the entire bird and tie on with twine, lemoving just in time to brown nicely. Stewed Partridges. — Prepare two young partridges as for roast- ing, lard the breasts with three or four strips fat bacon, cutting off the ends, and place the birds in a stew pan, with a cabbage cut in 362 GAME. quarters and heart removed, over them ; put in also a carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, Ijunch sweet herbs, quarter teaspoon pep- per, quarter pound Bologna sausage (uncooked) and half pound rather lean bacon, slightly freshened. Put in broth or stock to cover and a half cup good drippings. Cover closely, first placing a cloth over stewj^nn, then fitting in the cover and simmer an hour and a half. Take out the meat and place in oven to keep hot, drain the cabbage and stir in a pan over fire with seasoning of salt and pepper until free from moisture, then place a layer on a dish, take out and undo the birds and lay them around the outer edge and put more cabbage in center. Cut the sausage and bacon in slices and serve as a garnish with the sliced carrot. Make a brown gravy in the steM'pan and send to table with it. Partridge Pie. — Line a deep pie dish with veal cutlets and over them place a slice of ham and seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw and wipe the partridges, cut off" legs at first joint and season inside with salt, pepper, minced parsley and a small piece butter, place in dish and pour in half pint any stock, or water and table- spoon butter will do ; line edge with puff-paste and cover with same, bake three-quarters of an hour, brush over with the Roll Glaze or simply a yolk of egg and bake fifteen minutes longer. If partridges are large, split in two. Partridges with Mushrooms. — Prepare brace of young part- ridges, dredge a little flour over and brown them equally and lightly in hot butter. Put them side by side into a stewpan, pour in as much rich brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, as will half cover them, and stew very gently until half done. Turn them over, put in with them two dozen small mushrooms, and simmer again until the birds are done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over them. Rissoles of Partridge. — Take three roast partridges, one half cup mushrooms, one cup each butter, flour, cream, and broth or water, a slight grating of nutmeg, a little lemon juice, pepper and salt. Cut meat into the smallest dice, mince the mushrooms and add, sprinkle with a teaspoon of mixed pepper and salt, grate a lit- tle nutmeg and squeeze a lemon over. Make a cream sauce by stir- ring the butter and flour together in a saucepan and adding the broth and cream when it begins to bubble, and when the sauce is ready moisten the meat with it, stir up well and set it awa.y to be- come cold. Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, roll in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard. Pile in the dish and garnish with fried parsle}'. Broiled Pheasant. — Scald and skin, cut the breast in two and the rest in joints, being careful to remove all shot ; put in hot water all except the breast (which will be tender enough without parboiling) GAME. 363 and boil until it can be pierced with fork ; take out, rub over salt and butter, and broil with breast over brisk fire ; place a lump of butter on each piece, season with pepper and set '-•^^^^^^^^^i ^^^ ^^^ ^^® oven for a few minutes. For breakfast, ^^^^^^^^^0 serve on fried mush, and for dinner, on toast with ^^^™*'^^"*"*^^ a bit of currant jelly over each piece, or with Sara- Fheasant with Potatoes. ^^^^ potatocsiu ccntcr. Or it may be served with toast cut in pieces about two inches square, over which pour gravy made by thickening the liquor in which the birds were boiled with a little butter and flour rubbed together and stirred in while boiling. This is more appetizing but not as handsome a method of serving as above. Garnish with water-cresses, pepper-grass or other greens. Or put pieces into a frying-pan with a little lard, and when browned on both sides, and about half done, take out and drain ; brush the pieces over with egg. and sprinkle with bread-crumbs with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil over moderate fire about ten minutes, or rather longer, and serve with mushroom sauce, sauce piquant, or brown gravy in Avhich a few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed. Prairie Chick- ens, Partridges and Squirrels may be prepared same way. Roast Pheasant. — The bird should be carefully plucked, drawn and singed, then stuff" with a dressing made as follows : Take two snipes and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the liv- ers, etc., on another. Take off" the flesh and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt ^.Aigmim^ to taste, and stuff" the pheasant carefully with ^^Sillfw this. Cut a slice of bread, larger than the /^^^M^i ^Mm^^^t s bird, and cover it with the liver, etc., a ^ ^^j^- -_■ - -^ ^ few truffles, with an anchovy and a little fresh ^"^^^ Phea.ant. butter added, if liked. Put the bread thus prepared, into the drip- ping-pan, and when the bird is roasted place it on the preparation, and surround with Florida oranges. Roast Prairie Chickens and Partridges are equally delicious. Pheasant Cutlets. — Procure three young pheasants that have been hung for a few days ; pluck, draw,' and wipe them inside ; cut into joints ; remove the bones from the best of these ; put the back- bones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables and seasoning to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets to a good shape, egg and bread-crumb them, broil over a clear fire, pile high in a dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be strained, flavored and thickened. One of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet. Roast Pigeons. — Only young and tender pigeons should be roasted. Dress carefully, pnd after washing clean, wipe dry and put into each bird a small piece of butter dipped in cayenne. Or fiill 364 GAME. them with a stufl5ng of bread-crumbs, a tablespoon butter, a httle Bait and nutmeg, and three oysters to each bird (some prefer chop- ped apple). Truss the wings over the back and roast at least thirty- minutes in a quick oven, keeping constantly basted with butter. Dish with young water-cresses, or a garnish of parsley and serve with browned gravy. Or they may be roasted with a slice of bacon over the breasts. Steioed Ftgeons. — Put the pigeons in a large stewpan with a cup water to keep from burning and a tablespoon butter for each bird. Cover, and simmer slowly until a nice uark brown. Turn occas- sionally and see that each is well placed in the liquor. When about half done take out and set in oven or over hot water to keep hot while a gravy is made. Chop the giblets very fine, with a little onion and parsley. Put into the gravy, pepper and salt, boil up and thicken with browned flour. Put the pigeons back in the pan, cover tightly and cook slowly until tender. If there is not enough liquor for the gravy, add boiling water before putting in the giblets. Or put slices of bacon in bottom of stewpan ; lay in the pigeons, side by side, carefully tied in shape, all their lareasts ^ uppermost ; add a sliced carrot, an onion with a clove stuck in, a teaspoon sugar, and chopped _ parsley, and pour over enough stock or boiling etew'ed' pigeon., water to cover them. Put thin slices of bacon over the pigeons; cover them as closely as possible, adding boiling water or stock when necessary, and simmer until very tender. Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of buttered toast, and for an extra dish with a border of spinach, or make little nets of spinach on pieces of toast, putting a pigeon into each nest. For Pigeons a la Mode, make a stuffing of bits of salt pork, dry bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, thyme, and one egg. Stuff" each bird, lay in a stewpan, cover with water, and adda little thyme and the juice of a lemon. Cook until tender and serve with a gravy made as above. Pigeon Pie. — Make either a fine puff paste or a rich baking powder crust, as liked ; lay a border of it around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a very tender steak free from fat and bone ; season with salt, cayenne pepper and mace. Prepare as many pigeons as can be put in one layer in the dish ; put in each pigeon a small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt ; lay them in the dish breast downwards, and cut in slices a half dozen hard-boiled eggs, and put with them ; put in more butter, some veal broth and cover the whole with crust. Bake slowly an hour and a half. The pigeons may first be fried a light brown in butter. Or split the birds and cut in quarters and put in first a layer of steak, then one of pigeons and then one of sausage meat highly seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered allsj)ice, then another layer of each until all are used. Pour in just enough, hot water to moisten and GAME. 365 cover the pie with crust, wetting the edges to make them adhere ; cut little slits in the crust to permit the steam to escape ; brush the crust with beaten egg and bake in moderate oven two hours. For another excellent pie take about eight pigeons or other small birds, and make a stuffing of bread and onions. Stuff each bird, then put into a stewpan about a tablespoon lard, and a dessert-spoon flour and brown nicely ; cut a small onion very fine and fry it, adding the birds which should fry awhile before putting a pint of water over them, and let them boil until done. Take them out ; add about two dozen oysters, with a little of the oyster-water, to gravy, a table- spoon butter, salt, black pepper, allspice, and nutmeg; line a bak- ing-dish with pastry, put the birds in with the gravy, cover with the pastry and bake. _ Pot-Roast of Prairie Chickens. — Skin, draw, wash, wipe dry, tie in shape without stuffing, and parboil in water to cover ; cook till tender, adding more water if necessary. Take out chicken and pour broth in crock to keep for gravy. Put two tablespoons butter in ket- tle, let brown, put in chicken and keep turning it till nearly browned, about five or ten minutes, then add pint broth in which it was par- boiled, put on cover and let cook till almost dry, then add more broth, season with salt and pepper and keep cooking and adding broth till chicken is done, and there is a pint of rich brown gravy left in kettle. Take out chicken, put in pan in oven to keep hot, and make a Sour Cream Oravy by adding one pint sour cream, and one tablespoon baking molasses. Thicken with a tablespoon flour stirred smooth in a little cream, either sweet or sour, let boil five minutes and then serve chicken on hot platter, garnished, if liked, with parsley, and gravy in gravy boat. Pheasaitts^ Quail, Duck. Spring Chickens and any small game are nice cooked as above, and the gravy can be made in same way where game is roasted in oven. Roast Prairie Chickens. — Skin or pluck them, as preferred, cut off head and feet, and draw without breaking intestines, wash, and for each bird put a tablespoon finely chopped onion in a frying-pan over the fire with two heaping tablespoons finely-chopped salt pork or butter ; as soon as the onion is brown add a heaping cup soft bread-crumbs, a level teaspoon each salt and any powdered sweet herb except sage, a saltspoon pepper, and a tablespoon butter ; use this as soon as hot for stuffing the birds, and either put them before a good fire to roast, or in a dripping-pan set in a hot oven ; cook about half an hour, basting occasionally with drippings from them ; _ when done keep hot while a gravy is made as follows : Place the dripping-pan over fire ; for each bird stir in a level tablespoon flour until it is brown, and then gradually stir in a scant pint Doil- ing water ; season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let boil two or three minutes, and serve with the birds. Garnish with sprigs of parsley alternated with currant jelly. A delicious sauce can be 366 GAME. made by mixing half a glass currant jelly for each bird with the drippings in tlie pan, and stirring the sauce over the fire until it boils to the proper consistency; another excellent cold sauce is made by mixing a tablespoon dry mustard thoroughly with a glass of currant jelly. Plain boiled potatoes, or potatoes re-warmed, with butter, salt and pepper, may be served with the birds. Roast Pheas- ant and Partridge the same way. Steamed Prairie CJiicken. — Wash thoroughly but quickly, using some soda in the water, rinse and dry, fill with dressing, sew up with cotton thread, and tie down the legs and wings; place in a steamer over hot water till done, remove to a dripping-pan, cover with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place in the oven and baste with the melted butter until a nice brown ; serve with either apple sauce, cranberries, or currant jelly. Steioed Prairie ChicJceri. — Cut in joints, put over the fire in a saucepan Avith butter and brown quickly ; for each bird add half a glass currant jelly, level teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper and sufficient boiling water to cover; cook slowly until tender, adding a little more water if necessary, and serve them on toast, with the gravy from the pan poured over. Or, put about tablespoon butter, and two of salt pork, cut into bits, in a saucepan, and set on quick fire ; when butter is melted put the bird in, and brown it all round; then add four small onions, half a carrot in slices, salt and pepper, stir till onions and carrots are partly fried ; then add a pint of good broth and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil gently till done. Dish the bird, strain the gravy over it, and serve hot. Salmi of Prairie Chickens. — This is an excellent way of serv- ing the remains of roasted game ; but when a choice dish is desired, the birds must be scarcely more than hnlf roasted. In either case cut up neatly, and strip every particle of fat and skin from the legs, wings, and breast ; bruise the bodies well, and put them with the skin and other trimmings into a stewpan ; add two or three sliced shallots or onions, small blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns ; noin- in a pint or more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil I'viskly until reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavor, skim ofi" the fat, add a little cay- enne and lemon juice and heat the birds very gradually in it with- out allowing it to boil ; place bits of fried bread round a dish, arrange the birds in the center, give the sauce a boil, and pour it over them. Partridges and other wild-fowl can be prepared in same way. Fried Quail. — Split open on the back and boil until tender ; have an equal quantity butter and lard hot in frying-pan, put in the birds and fry a nice light brown. Lay the quail on slices of GAME. 367 toasted bread and pour over them a nice gravy made in pan. Pheasants may be cooked in same way, served on platter without toast. Roast Quail. — Pluck and dress like chickens, wipe clean, and rub both inside and out with salt and pepper ; stuff with any good dressing, and sew up with fine thread ; spread with butter and place in an oven with a good steady heat, turning and basting often with hot water seasoned with butter, salt and ]:>epper ; bake three-quar- ters of an hour. When about half done add a little hot water to the pan, and it is well to place a dripping-pan over them to prevent browning too much. Add to the gravy, flour and butter ruljbed to- gether, and water if needed. Or, when cleaned, cover the birds with thin slices of ham or bacon and then wrap in grape leaves or tie in buttered paper, place in pan with piece of butter size of hazelnut and baste Avell, adding very little water. While the quail are baking cut as many square pieces of bread as there are birds, fry in hot lard, put on dish, and when done, lay the birds on them, removing the twine which holds the legs, and the paper. Some prefer to re- move the papers to brown the birds before taking up. Turn the gravy, thickened with the quail livers pounded to a paste, over the birds ; decorate the dish with water-cress sprinkled with vinegar or lemon juice. Or send to table with a plate of fried bread-crumbs and bread sauce in a tureen. In serving put a quail on each plate, pour over a tablespoon of the sauce, and on this place a tablespoon crumbs, or the sauce-boat and plate of crumbs may be passed separ- ately. To make the sauce, roll a pint dry bread-crumbs, and pass half of them through a sieve. Put a small onion into a pint milk, and when it boils remove the onion, and thicken the milk with the half pint sifted crumbs; take it from the fire, and stir in a heaping teaspoon butter, a grating of nutmeg, pepper and salt. To prepare the crumbs, put a little butter into a saucepan, and when hot throw in the half pint of coarser crumbs which remained in the sieve ; stir over the fire until they assume a light brown color, taking care that they do not burn, and add a small pinch cayenne pepper. Steamed Quail. — Clean the birds carefully, using a little soda in the water in which they are washed ; rinse, wipe dry, and fill with dressing, sewing up nicel}' , and binding down the legs and wings with cords. Put in a steamer over hot water, and lot cook until just done. Then place in a pan with a little butter; set them in the oven and baste frequently with melted butter until a nice brown. They ought to brown nicely in about fifteen minutes. Serve on a platter, with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. Quail Fricassee. — Prepare six quail as for roasting. Grate the crumb of a small stale loaf of bread, scrape one pound fat bacon, chop thyme, parsley, an onion and a lemon peel fine, and season 868 oA^rE. with salt and pepper ; mix with two eggs ; put this forcemeat into the quail, lard the breasts and fry brown ; place them in a stewpan with some beef stock and stew three-quarters of an hour ; thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with forcemeat balls around the dish and strain the gravy over the birds. Pigeon Fricas- see is prepared as above. Quail on Toast. — Dry pick, singe "with paper, cut off heads, and disjoint legs at first joint, draw, split down the back, and break down breast and backbone so they will lie flat ; soak in salt and water for five or ten minutes, drain and dry with a cloth, lard with bacon or butter, and rub salt over them, place on broiler and turn often, dipping two or three times into melted butter; broil about twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of buttered toast as there are birds, and serve a bird, breast upward, on each slice with currant jelly. Or cook them, prepared as above, in a covered pan in hot oven, with a very little water, until nearly done. Then fry in frying-pan with hot butter to a nice broAvn, and serve on buttered toast. Make a sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken lightly with browned flour and pour over each quail. Plover and Reed Birds may be broiled in same way. Pigeons should be first parboiled and then broiled and served same. Rahhits. — They are in best condition in mid-winter and are prepared for cooking by first skinning by cutting a slit under the throat ; as it is pulled off, turn skin over so as to enclose the hair that it may not touch the skin ; or cut skin of legs around first joints ; loosen skin oft hind legs all around, and cut it inside thighs as far_ as tail, then tuFn the skin back until the hind legs are free from it, and hang up the carcass by tliom ; next pull the skin downward toward the head, slipping out the fore legs when they are reached ; after cutting off feet, either cut off head at neck or skin it, and cut off end of nose with skin, then draw, wash, wipe dry, and in cooking them always lard, or lay or tie pieces of salt pork or bacon over them as they are dry meated. Boiled Rolhit. — Skin, wash well in cold water, and let soak for about fifteen minutes in Avarm water, to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit in sullicient hot water to cover, let boil very gently until tender, which will be from half an hour to an hour, according to its size and age. Dish and smother it either with onions, mushroom, or liver sauce, or parsley and butter ; the former is, however, generally preferred to any of the last named sauces. \\'h(Mi liver sauce is preferred, the liver i^hould be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce. GAME. 869 Curried Rahhit. — Have the rabbit carefully drawn, skinned and washed ; cut into joints and putin stewpan with two tablespoons butter or drippings and three sliced onions ; let brown, but not burn ; pour in one pint boiling stock ; mix one tablespoon each curry and flour smoothly in a little water, and put in pan with pepper and salt and one teaspoon mushroom powder ; some add also a few cloves ; simmer half an hour or more; squeeze in juice of half a lemon, a httle parsley, and serve in the center of a platter with a half pound rice, boiled dry, piled round it. Water may be used instead of stock, and a little sour apple and grated cocoa-nut stewed with the curry if liked. Fricasseed Rabhit. — Skin and cut in pieces. Lay in cold water a few minutes, drain and put in saucepan with pepper and a quarter of a pound of pickled pork, cut in strips. Cover with water, and simmer half an hour. Then add an onion chopped, a tablespoon of chopped parsley, a blade of mace, and two cloves. Mix to a smooth paste a tablespoon flour, stir it in and simmer till meat is tender, then stir in half cup rich cream. If not thick enough add a little more flour. Boil up once and serA^e. Or for a Creoled Rabhit, put pieces in an earthen bean-pot with close cover, alternate with lay- ers of sliced onions, and season highl}'- with salt and pepper ; cover the top with slices of raw ham or bacon, and bake in a moderate oven an hour and three-quarters. Serve hot. ^ Fried Rahhit. — When nicely dressed lay it in a pan with cold water, add a half cup salt and soak overnight. In the morning drain off water, cut up and roll each piece in corn meal and let stand till time to cook for dinner ; then rinse, cut up and parboil in slightly salted water, Avith one large or two small onions sliced in it, until tender ; take out, roll in corn meal or equal parts meal and flour and fry in a little butter a nice brown. Make a gravy in the pan or serve with onion sauce. Or, dip the pieces in"^ beaten egg, then roll in cracker crumbs and immerse in lard, or half lard and beef drippings, or American cooking oil, as fritters, and fry brown. Garnish with slices of lemon alternated with green leaves. Some prefer to thus soak and parboil rabbits before roasting, thinking it gives a more delicate flavor. Potted Rahhit. — Cut one large rabbit or two small ones in pieces and put it in a stone jar ; cut one pound each veal and bacon in large dice, mix and add livers and a teaspoon mace, cloves, and black pepper, and a teaspoon salt, and fill the spaces between the pieces of rabbit. Lay a thin slice or two of bacon on top and one bay leaf, then cover with a lid of plain paste made of flour and water only, set the jar in a pan or pot containing water and bake in a slow oven three or four hours. There js no water needed in the meat. A greased paper on top will keep' the paste from burning. When 370 GAME. done, set the jar away to become cold, then pick meat from pieces of rabbit and pound to a paste with veal and bacon and fat, and if any gravy at tlie bottom, boil down almost dry and mix it in. Sea- son to taste. Press solid into small jars or cups, and cover the top with the clear part of melted butter. Keep tightly covered in a cool place. For Sandioiches of Potted Rabbit, make baking powder or buttermilk biscuits large in diameter, but thin and flaky, split them, spread one half with butter, the other with potted rabbit and place them together again. Roast Rabbit. — Rub inside with pepper and salt and fill with a dressing made of bread-crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, and pepper and salt, sew up, rub over with a little butter, or pin on it with wooden toothpicks a few slices of salt pork, add a little water in the pan, and baste often, or roast Avithout a dressing; and some, larding as above, pour boiling water into bottom of pan, cover with another pan of equal size, letting ralibit steam half an hour ; then take off cover, baste with a little butter, and let brown. Serve with mashed potatoes and currant jelly, and always serve a nice pickle with any dish of rabbit. Roast Reed Birds. — Roasting by suspending on the little wire which accompanies the roaster, is the best method ; turn and b^^ste frequenth' ; they a^ often roasted with a very tliin slice of salt pork fastened round each with skewer; serve on toastAvith the dripjiings from the pan poured over. An oyster rolled in bread-crumbs and well seasoned with pepper and salt may be placed in each bird be- fore roasting. For Baked Reed Birds, wash and peel with as thin a paring as possible large potatoes of equal size, cut a deep slice off one end of each, and scoop out a part of the potatoes ; drop a piece of butter into each bird, pepper and salt, and put it in the hollows made in the potatoes ; put on as covers the pieces cut off, and clip the other end for them to stand on ; tie them with twine and set in a baking pan upright, with a lit- tle water to prevent burning, bake slowly and when done remove (he twine and tie instead with cord, tape or ribbon and send to table on a napkin. Or bake in a dri]iping-pan with plenty of butter, turning to brown both sides. They may also be boiled in crust like dumplings. RoaM Snipe. — Snipe are best roasted with a piece of pork tied to the breast and placed before an open fire ; or rub with Initter and put in pan on trivet or muffin rings without water and cook lialfan bour. or they may be stutfed and baked. Ineither case serve on toast. Or run them on skewers alternately with thin slices of bacon or small sausages, and roast as above ; when done season with salt and pepper, and serve hot at once on the skewer^ ; toast can be served with them. This is a nice way for all small birds. Serve on toast. GAME. 371 Stewed Squirrel. — Skin as rabbits (see recipe) and cut in pieces, discarding the head ; lay them in cold water ; put a large tablespoon lard in a stewpan,withan onion sliced, and a tablespoon of flour ; let fr}^ until the flour is brown, then put in a pint of water the squirrel seasoned with salt and pepper, and cook until tender' When half done j)ut in strips of nice puff-paste and a little butter* Roast Teal. — Choose fat plump birds, after frost has set in, as they are generally better flavored. Skin, draw, and roast in oven in a little butter and water if needed ; serve with a brown or orange gravy and garnish with sliced lemon. For Fried Teal, cut up, fry in pan, turning to brown both sides, and when done add season- ing and half cup currant jelly ; stir teal about in the jelly and serve on slices of toast with the jelly turned over each piece. Fried Grouse is prepared in same way, some using only the breast, and also Fried Duck. The jelly dressing may be omitted, serving with a teaspoon cold currant jelly on each piece instead. Broiled Yeniso?i. — Cut thin slices from the loin or take cutlets from the leg, season with pepper and salt and broil quickly on but- tered gridiron. Or bread the slices before broiling. Dish on hot platter with bit of butter under each and serve with a gravy sauce or a dish of currant jelly, and for vegetables baked potatoes and stewed mushrooms. Fried Yenison. — Take slices from the loin or leg and place in frying-pan which has been covered to depth of half an inch with butter made smoking; hot, and quickly brown both sides; season with pepper and salt and put in two tablespoons jelly to each pound venison. Slices an inch thick should cook twenty minutes. Serve hot with the gravy from pan poured over. It may be fried without the jelly but is much nicer with it. Hashed Venison. — Remove the bones from cold venison, and mince it fine ; to a pint of minced venison allow two tablespoons each butter and currant jelly ; heat them together, season the mince palatably with salt and pepper, and serve on toast, very hot. Veni- son Patties is another good way to utilize bits of cold venison ; chop fine, heat Avith some of the gravy left from dinner, season with pep- per and salt, then fill patty-pans with the venison and cover the top with crust ; bake until crust is done brown. Roast Venison. — The haunch, the leg, and the saddle of veni- son, which is the double loin, are best for roasting or baking. Wash in warm water and dry well with a cloth, season with salt and pep- per, and wrap in several sheets of buttered paper or cover with a coarse paste made of flour and water, though some use both paper and paste, first putting a sheet of white paper, buttered, over the lat, then spread with the paste, half an inch thick, and over this put a 372 GAME. sheet or two of strong paper, binding the whole ftrraly on with twine ; then either put it before the lire on a spit, or place in a drip- ping-pan in very hot oven, and cook about fifteen minutes to the pound if desired medium rare. If roasted before the fire bii^te con- stantly while cooking and in either case, about twenty minutes before it is done, quicken the fire, carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge with flour, and baste well with butter until it is nicely frothed, and of a pale brown color ; if a haunch, garnish the knuckle- bone with a frill of Avhite paper, and serve with an unflavored gravy made from the drippings in a tureen, and currant jelly or jelly and mustard sauce. As the principal object in roasting venison is to E reserve the fat, the latter is the est mode of doing so where ex- pense is not objected to ; but in ordinary cases the paste may be noa^st Haunch ui wui-ou. dispensed with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead ; it will not require so long cooking without tbe paste. Send to table on a hot platter, or better on a hot-water platter as illustrated, and serve on hot plates, as the venison fat so soon cools ; to be thoroughly enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck and shoulder may be roasted in same manner. Some wash the venison in lukewarm vinegar and water before roasting and rub well with butter or lard to soften the skin, while others remove the dry outer skin entirely, and think it better to tie on the papers and paste the day before wanted. One mode of baking is to i)lace in dripping-pan with boiling water in the bottom,- invert another pan over it to keep in the steam, and let it cook thus an hour with a good fire ; wet all over with hot water, cover again and bake an hour and a half longer ; then remove papers and paste, let brown half an hour, basting every five minutes, and finish by dredging with flour and butter to make a froth. Or bake in dripping-pan simply covered with the paste, basting every ten minutes with the hot water or gravy from the pan, removing the paste half an hour before done, and ifinish as above. Take up on a hot dish, skim the gravy left in dripping-pan, strain, thicken with browned flour, add two teaspoons currant jelly, and pei)per and salt. Boil for an in- stant, and serve in a gravy-boat. Or a very nice gravy is made thus : Pour all the fat from the baking pan, and put in the pan a cup boiling water. Stir from the sides and bottom and set back where it v.'ill keep hot. Put a tablespoon butter in a small frying- pan with small slice of onion, six pepper-corns and four whole cloves. Cook until the onion is browned, add a heaping teaspoon flour, and stir until browned ; then gradually add the gravy in the pan ; boil one minute, strain, and add a half teaspoon lemon juice and three tablespoons currant jelly. Serve both venison and gravy very hot. Or after the venison has been put in the oven chop all bits trimmed GAME. 373 from it, and put over the fire, with any venison bones available, or use beef bones ; cover with boiling water, season with salt and pep- per, add ten whole cloves or about quarter of small nutmeg, and simmer gently while venison is baking, taking care to keep covered with water. Take up the venison when done and keep very hot while gravy is made as follows : Set the baking-pan over the fire, stir into it a heaping tablespoon flour, and brown it, then strain into it the liquid from the bones, season with salt and pepper and stir in as much currant jelly as liked. To bake Venison a la Mode, re- move the bone from the haunch, and make a large quantity of force- meat, or stuffing of bread-crumbs, bits of- pork, an onion minced fine, a small piece of celery, or celery-seed, parsley, and sage. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Press in the stuffing till the hole left by the bone is filled. Sew up the opening and spread over it nice lard, sprinkling with pepper and salt, or bake as above, in a paste, until well done. Serve with either of the gravies given. Stewed Venison. — Use the neck, shoulder, inferior part of the leg or the backbone with the layer of tender meat each side, for a stew; cut into seveial pieces, and put in a stewpan with just water or stock enough to cover it ; add a grated onion, bunch sweet herbs, salt, black pepper, and part of a red pepper pod. Simmer gently from three and a half to four hours, and if it becomes rather dry add boiling water ; it is well to stew with it some slices of fat mutton ; lust before serving thicken with flour rubbed smooth in an ounce of butter. Serve with red currant jelly. Another way is to put the venison in a saucepan in which butter enough to c(«ver half an inch in depth has been made smoking hot. Brown the venison in this and stir with it a tablespoon flour for each pound ; when the flour is browned cover the venison with boiling water, add a teaspoon currant jelly for each pound, and season with salt and pepper. Cover closely and stew half an hour, or until tender ; serve hot with the sauce in which it has been cooked poured over. For a stew from the remains of roast, cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of any good gravy or stock ; stew gently for an hour, and strain gravy. Put a little flour and butter into stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add strained gravy, and let boil, skim and strain again, and when a little cool put in the slices of venison. Place stewpan on back of stove and when on the point of simmering, serve ; do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Roast Woodcock. — Put an onion, salt and hot water into a drip ping-pan with the birds and baste for ten or fifteen minutes ; then change pan ; put in a slice of salt pork and baste with butter and pork drippings very often ; just before serving dredge lightly with 374 GAME. flour and baste. Or fill with a rich forcemeat of bread-crumbs, pep- per, salt, and melted butter ; sew up and roast, basting with butter and water, from twenty minutes to half an hour. When half done, put circular slices of buttered toast underneath to catch the juice, and serve on these when taken up. Roast Snipe and other small birds same way. Fried Woodcock. — Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs close to the body ; skin the head and neck, turn the beak under the wing and tie it ; fasten a very thin piece of bacon around the breast of each bird, immerse in hot fat for two or three minutes. Season and serve on buttered toast. Some pierce the legs with the beak of the bird, as illustrated. Fried Snipe is prepared in same way. ^'''"^ woodcock. Broiled Woodcock is a favorite dish. Split them down the back and broil, basting with butter, and serve on toast. y Bird Compote. — Prepare as for roasting and fill each with a dressing made as follows : Allow for each l)ird the size of a pigeon one half a hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoon bread-crumbs, a teaspoon chopped pork ; first season the birds with pepper and salt, then stufi" and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. Place over the birds a few slices of pork, add a ])int water for twelve birds, dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and butter. If sauce is too thin thicken with a little flour. Potted Game. — Take any cooked remains of game and pound well together, having previously removed all skin and bone. Add to the paste pounded mace, allspice, ca^'enne pepper, salt, pepper, and a lump of sugar pounded. Any remains of ham may be in- cluded with the game, and should be of an equal quantity. Eub the paste through a wire sieve, If no ham be added use an equal amount of butter. Mix it well again, and place in pots or jars, cov- ered with either clarified butter or lard. When required for use, dish on an aspic jell}'' and garnish with fresh parsley. Puree of Game and Pice. — This is a pretty and economical dish, coming under the head of secondar}' cookery. Take the re- mains of any kind of roast or boiled game, put into a stewpan with a gill of water, stick of celery, a little thyme, and an onion. Boil gently together. Mince meat, and pound in a mortar with a small bit of butter, and a spoonful gravy from the bones. This should be in a state of pulp ; rub through a hair seive, put in stewpan with stock from bones, which ought to be reduced to less than a gill in quantity. Add a gill cream, a sprinkling merely of pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a teaspoon flour ; dish Avith rice, potato croquettes, poached eggs, and thin narrow strips of bacon as a garnish, or with merely the rice and tufts of parsley. CAME* ' 375 Spanish Stev). — Use hare, rabbit, chicken, partridge or pheas- ants. Cut up, wipe with damp towel and save the giblets. Put the pieces in a pan with sweet oil and onion sliced and fried brown. Add some cliopped ham and sweet herbs, season with cayennne pep- per, and sufficient beef broth to cover well ; add the giblets, let sim- mer, skim off the grease, stir meat from the bottom, and when done add the juice of two oranges. Serve hot in covered dish. Western Pie. — Pluck and skin blackbirds or small birds of any kind, enough to fill a baking-dish of medium size, cut off heads and feet, except leaving feet on half a dozen for upper row ; draw them without breaking entrails, put birds into saucepan, with enough boil- ^/V I, ing water to cover, tablespoon each butter and flour rubbed to a smooth paste to each dozen birds, and a palatable seasoning of pepper and salt, and let stew gently until tender. For every dozen small birds boil three eggs hard, remove shells, and cut eggs in halves and while birds are stewing, make Western Pie a nicc crust as directed in Pastry, line a bak- ing dish and partly bake it ; when birds are tender put them in it, together with the hard boiled eggs, pour in as much of the gravy used in stewing the birds as the dish will hold, put on a cover of pastry, brush the top with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven, until upper crust is done. If any gravy remains after filling pie, keep hot and serve with it. B'.ackhivds skinned, parboiled, and fried or broiled and served on toast are delicious. Washington Roast. — Have a pair of young wild ducks careful- ly skinned and cleaned, wipe inside and out with a wet towel and stuff with potatoes, boiled until tender, mashed as if for table, and seasoned with teaspoon grated onion,pepper, salt, teaspoon powder- ed herbs and two heaping tablespoons butter, or a dressing made with milk or cream may be used, or do not stuff at all. Sew up the ducks, truss them, put in baking pan, set in hot oven and as soon as lightly browned dredge them well with flour and baste with drip- pings in pan, or with butter. Bake half an hour, basting two or three times. Serve with Giblet Gravy. Or make an Orange Sauee by scraping tablespoon each fat bacon and onions and fry them togeth- er five minutes, then add juice of an orange and tablespoon currant jelly. Skim off all fat from baking pan, put in above mixture, and a little thickening if necessary, lioil up and serve. Epicures prefer this method to that of first parboiling the ducks. For Stewed Ducks have them nicely picked ; stuff with bread and butter flavored with onions, pepper, and a few celery-seeds ; flour them, then brown in lard in frying pan ; put in a few slices of hnm in iron stew-pot chopped onions, water, pepper, and salt, with a few blades of mace ; add ducks and let them stew gentl}^ but constantly for two or three hours ; flour them each time they are turned in pot; thicken gravy with butter rolled in flour, and serve hot. j76 griddle cakes. G-RIDDLE CAKKS. Griddle-cakes should be well beaten when first made, and cakes in which eggs are used are much lighter when the eggs are separated, whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth just before baking. All griddle-cakes are much nicer mixed and kept overnight, to allow the flour to swell, stirring in the whites of eggs and soda or baking powder, when used, just before baking. Cakes are much more easily, quickly and neatly baked if made in a vessel with a spout from which the batter may be poured, and one can be provided for this purpose. Have the griddle clean, and if the cakes stick sprinkle on salt and rub with a coarse cloth before greasing. The neatest way to grease a griddle is with a large piece of ham or pork rind kept for this purpose, and some use a thick slice of turnip. Many prefer griddles made of soap-stone, which need no greasing — grease spoils them — but they need to be very hot. They are more costly and more easily broken than iron, and with care cakes may be baked on an iron griddle without greasing, if it is kept polished, and rubbed well with a cloth after every baking. The artificial stone griddle illustrated is a new article, light and durable, equally as good as the soap-stone, doing away with all grease and smoke and much cheaper. Whether greased or not, iron griddles, if ArtiQciai stone Griddle. propcrly carcd for, need washing but seldom. Immediately after use they should be carefully wiped and put away out of the dust, never to be used for any other pur- GRIDDLE CAKES. 377 pose. Do not turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking, as it makes them heavy ; this rule should never be departed from, save in making fruit cakes, when it is necessary to turn them quickly to form a crust to confine the juice of the berries, and again to cook them thoroughly ; serve all cakes the same side up as when taken from griddle. The cake lifter illustrated is almost indispensable in turning cakes smoothly and evenly and the cake utter. cost of it is small. Buckwheat cakes are highly esteemed for win- ter breakfast, but are very properly never, or rarely, served in sum- mer, as the chief value of buckwheat as a food is its heat produc- ing properties. In making batter, bread or corn meal cakes, either sour milk or buttermilk may be used with soda; or sweet milk or water with baking powder, as convenient, using same proportion of other in- gredients, and remember that one heaping teaspoon baking powder possesses the same rising properties as one level teaspoon soda, A greater proportion of either of the rising powders is necessary with buckwheat, Graham and corn meal than with flour. Baiter Cakes. — Make a batter of one quart each flour and sour milk, and let stand overnight. In the morning add three eggs beaten separately, a tablespoon butter, and two level teaspoons soda. Pulverize the soda verv fine before measuring, then thor- oughly mix with the flour. Add whites of eggs just before baking on the griddle. For Corn Cakes use two-thirds corn meal and one- third flour. Sweet milk or water may be used with two heaping teaspoons baking powder thoroughlv mixed with the flour. These may also be made without eggs, and some prefer to sweeten them, using either molasses or sugar to taste. Buttermilk may be used instead of sour milk. For Raised Batter Cakes take three eggs, one teaspoon sugar, one coffee-cup each sweet milk and warm water, four tablespoons potato yeast, flour enough to make a stifl batter ; beat yolks and sugar well, stir in milk, water and yeast, and lastly flour, stir well, and set in warm place to rise ; when light, beat whites to a stiff' froth, and stir into batter with a pinch of salt. Very nice for breakfast if set the night before. For Tomato Cakes, slice large, solid ripe tomatoes, cover with the batter without yeast and fry on a griddle ; season with pepper and salt while frying. Bread Cakes. — Soak stale bits of bread overnight in sour milk ; in the morning rub through a sieve or colander, and to one quart add yolks of two eggs, one teaspoon each salt and soda, two table- 378 GRIDDLE CAKES. spoons sugar, and flour enough to make a batter a little thicker than for buckwheat cakes ; add last the well-beaten whites of eggs, and bake. Or for Bread Cfikes loith Corn Meal^ soak bread-crumbs overnight in one quart sour milk, rub as above, and add four well- beaten eggs, two teaspoons soda dissolved in a little water, one table- spoon melted butter, and enough corn meal to make the consistency of ordinary griddle-cakes. It is better to beat yolks and whites separately," stirring the whites in just before baking. Either sweet milk or water may be used, with two heaping teaspoons baking powder, instead of' sour milk and soda. And if wanted to bake im- mediately, pour enough hot water over the bread to moisten it well, then put through a colander and add other ingredients as above, with, if necessary, a little sweet milk, sour milk or buttermilk, as liked, to give the proper consistency. Some add a little shortening of butter or cream. To make Raised Bread Cakes, soak the bread in enough cold milk to make it very soft, almost liquid ; then beat it to a smooth batter over the fire and let it get scalding hot ; cool a little, and to each quart soaked bread stir in one tablespoon yeast, two well-beaten eggs, level teaspoon salt, and enough flour to form a batter that Avill hold a drop let fall from the spoon. Cover it with folded towel and let rise overnight, if the cakes are intended for breakfast, or five hours, if to be used at noon or evening. Buckwheat Cakes. — Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is perfectly free from grits. The grain should l:)e run through the smut- ter with a strong blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken tin-ough the whole process. Adulteration with rye or corn cheapens the flour, but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and is unsurpassed for griddle-cakes. To make batter, warm one pint sweet milk and one pint water (one may be cold and the other boil- ing) ; put half this mixture in a stone crock, add five teacups buck- wheat flour, beat well until smooth, add the rest of the milk and Avater, and Inst a teacup of yeast. Or, the same ingredients and pro- portions may be used except adding two tablespoons molasses or sugar, which makes them Drown nicely, and using one quart water instead one pint each milk and water. Some like also to shorten them with two tablespoons melted lard. Or, another rule, sift one cpiart buckwheat flour and add a cup scalded corn meal, tablespoon sugar and teaspoon salt. Stir in a half cup yeast and mix to a good batter with lukewarm water. Set to rise in a warm Dlace overnight and before baking in the morning, thin if necessary with warm water, and if it is even the least bit sour add a half teaspoon soda, but take out a cup of the batter, before adding the soda, to serve as a rising for the next baking and put away in a cool place. If this is done every morning, fresh j'east will not be necessary for several days ; some who bake cakes every morning use no other yer^st air winter and think them better raised thus. Some never stir buck- wheat cakes after they have risen, but take them out carefully with GRIDDLE CAKES. 379 a large spoon, placing the spoon when emptied in a saucer, and not back again in the batter. Wheat flour is used b.y manj' instead of corn meal, and it is recommended by some that oats be ground with buckwheat, one-third oats to two-thirds buckwheat. Some good housekeepers in the country who make salt-rising bread and thus do not keep a supply of yeast constantly on hand may be glad when buckwheat cake time comes, of a recipe for mak- ing Yeast loithout Yeast : Take a tablespoon and a half each New Orleans molasses and warm w^ater, stir in enough flour for a thin batter and set in a warm j)lace. It will soon begin to throw uj^ bub- bles and in a short time ferment. While waiting for this, make ready for it by boiling a teacup of hops in two quarts water twenty minutes ; strain and stir in a pint flour and tablespoon salt, beating until free from lumps. Put over the fire and boil again until of the consistency of good starch ; if too thick, thin vv^ith boiling water. Turn into a bowl, cover, and let stand till lukewarm and stir in the rising of molasses, etc. Set where it will be kept warm, but not hot, until light, when place in a jug, cork tight, and put away in a cool place. The following recipe is considered by some especially nice for buckwheat cakes : Catnip Yeast. — Pare and boil six medium-sized potatoes ; tie in a clean white cloth one handful cat- nip (fresh or dry) and boil with potatoes ; when they are thoroughly cooked take out catnip, mash potatoes with a fork and if not smooth put through a colander or sieve ; add a half teaspoon ginger, hand- ful sugar, teaspoon salt, and water in which potatoes were cooked to make about two quarts, cool to blood-heat, add half pint yeast. Set in a warm place to rise. It will rise rather slowly in making, but will raise cakes, bread, etc., quicker than hop yeast. The advantage of catnip over hops is that more yeast can be used in cold weather, as is always necessary, without danger of giving a bitter taste. Buckwheat Cakes. — To make buckwheat cakes without yeast, mix overnight with warm water, a little salt, and tablespoon molas- ses, one pint buckwheat flour, to the usual consistency of griddle- cakes. When ready to bake for breakfast add two teaspoons bak- ing powder, thinning the batter if necessary, and bake immediately on a hot griddle. Or for Quick Buckwheats, take one pint sour milk or buttermilk, tablespoon soda, tablespoon baking molasses, or a little sugar ; thicken with buckwheat flour to the consistency of batter-cakes. Water may be used, or sweet milk and baking pow- der, but the cakes will not be as tender. Bake on a hot griddle. Cerealine Cakes. — Sift three-fourths cup flour, teaspoon baking powder and pinch of salt together, add three Avell-beaten eggs, table- spoon sugar and a cup cerealine, and stir in a pint milk. Bake as usual on a griddle, or in a buttered round frying-pan, putting in enough batter each time to make a cake covering half bottom of pan, turn to brown both sides, butter each cake, roll up separately, 380 GRIDDLE CAKES. sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Or take half pound boiled cerealine, three tablespoons sugar, two and one- half cups flour, one and one-half teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, teaspoon salt and three-fourths pint milk. Bake on griddle. cereaune cakes. Clam Cakes. — Sift two heaping teaspoons baking powder with a quart flour and make a batter with one pint milk and one pint liquor from canned clams, adding a tablespoon syrup, little salt, four tablespoons melted butter, and well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Stir in two two-pound cans of chopped clams and bake as other griddle cakes. Corn Cakes. — One pint corn meal, one of sour "milk or butler- milk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt. A tablespoon flour or half tablespoon corn starch may be used in place of the egg ; bake on a griddle. The scalding of corn meal takes away the raw taste and cakes made as follows Avill be much more delicious : One pint corn meal, one tea^^poon salt, small teaspoon soda ; pour on boiling water until a little thinner than mush ; let stand until cool ; add yolks of four eggs, half cup flour, in which is mixed two teaspoons cream tartar, and stir in as much sweet milk or water as will make the batter suitable to bake ; beat the whites well and add just before baking. Or pour three cups boiling milk gradually over one cup corn meal, stirring to avoid lumps ; sift one teaspoon salt, one of baking powder and two tablespoons sugar with one cup flour and add when scalded milk is cool ; then stir in two well-beaten eggs. A tablespoon cream or a little butter may be added, and some scald the milk, pour over meal, stirring in the butter and sugar and let stand overnight, adding other ingredients in the morning. To make Raised Corn Cakes., scald a quart corn meal, cool with cold water so as not to scald the yeast, add two tablespoons yeast, one of flour, and salt to taste. Let stand overnight, and in the morning add two well-beaten eggs. Farina Cakes. — Scald four tablespoons farina at night with a pint boiling Avater. In the morning thin with one quart milk stirred in slowly to avoid lumjs, and add two Avell-beatcn eggs, one table- spoon melted butter, salt to taste and enough flour to make a good batter. Add a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two, heap- ing, of baking powder. Flannel Cakes. — Make hot a pint of sweet milk, and into it put two heaping tablespoons butter, let melt, then add a pint of cold milk, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs — placing the whites in a cold place — a teaspoon salt, four tablespoons potato yeast, and sufficient flour to make a stiff batter; set in a warm place to rise, let stand three hours or overnight ; before baking add the beaten whites ; fry like any other griddle-cakes. Be sure to make batter just stiff enough^ GRIDDLE CAKES. S81 for flour must not be added in the morning unless it is allowed to rise again. Or take one cup corn meal, two of flour, three of boil- ing milk, one-fourth yeast cake dissolved in four tablespoons cold water, or one-fourth cup liquid yeast, one teaspoon salt, one table- spoon sugar, two of butter. Heat the milk to boiling and pour it over the meal and butter. When cool, add the other ingredients and let rise overnight and bake on griddle. French Pancakes. — Beat together till smooth yolks of six eggs and a half pound of flour, melt four tablespoons butter and add to batter, with one of sugar and a half pint milk, and beat until smooth. A little grated lemon peel may be added if wished. Put a large tablespoon at a time into small hot frying-pan about five inches in diameter, slightly greased, spread batter evenly over surface of pan by tipping it about, frv to light brown on one side — about four min- utes — then sprinkle sugar over or spread with jelly, jam or preserves, roll up in pan, take out carefully Avithout breaking and set where it will keep hot while others are fried, sending to table as hot and as quickly as possible, dusting with sugar just before serving. By make- ing cakes thin they will not need turning, which is difficult to clo when cakes are large. For Plain French Cakes ^ make as much batter as will be required, allowing one egg and a quarter saltspoon salt to four heaping tablespoons flour and a half pint milk. Beat yolks of eggs, add other ingredients, beating thoroughly, and stir in well- whipped whites, bake and roll as above. Fruit Cakes. — Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one teaspoon salt, two of baking powder, one tablespoon brown sugar ; add two well-beaten eggs, a pint of milk and a half pint blueberries, blackberries or raspberries. Have the griddle hot enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it, turn quickly to form a crust on the other side to confine the juices of the berries ; turn again on each side to bake thoroughly. Gluten Cakes. — One pint sour milk, level teaspoon soda; thicken with gluten or entire wheat flour as for batter cakes ; one or two eggs may be added, and sweet milk and baking powder may be used in place of sour milk and soda. These are as nice as buck- wheat cakes and more wholesome. Graham Cakes. — One cup each sour cream and tepid water, two eggs, the best Graham flour (unsifted) to make a thin batten, and scant level teaspoon soda dissolved in the tepid water. The water must not be too hot, or the cakes will be greasy and soggy. Bake slowly on not too hot a griddle. Or take one quart sifted Graham flour, teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or Av;;ter enough to make thin batter. Or, if a mixture is preferred, take one pint sifted Graham flour, half pint each corn meal and flour, or half Graham and half corn meal, heaping teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon 382 GRIDDLE CAKES. salt, one egg, pint buttermilk, teaspoon soda. Another excellent recipe requires two cups Graham Hour, one of flour, two and a half of milk, one tablespoon sugar, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two eggs. Boil half the milk, pour it on the Graham and stir until smooth ; add the cold milk, and set away to cool ; mix the other ingredients with the flour and rub through a sieve, and add with the eggs, well beaten, to the Graham and milk. Rye Cakes made the same. What is known as "Number One" Graham flour does not need to be sifted. Green Corn Calces. — To one quart grated corn (raw) add yolks of three eggs, cup sweet cream (milk maybe used, adding table- spoon butter), one cup flour, the well-b(?aten whites, teaspoon bak- ing powder ; bake on griddle and serve hot. Some use a handful fresh bread-crumbs and not so much flour. ITominy Cakes. — Beat a large tablespoon butter into two cups soft boiled hominy, add a tablespoon white sugar, little salt and three well-beaten eggs, beating all well together; then stir in a quart milk and a cup flour with two heaping teaspoons bakirig powder. Or take half hominy and half flour, and water may be used instead of milk. Rice Cakes made same. Bake very quickly. Oat Meal Cakes. — One cup each cooked oatmeal and flour, one egg, one teaspoon each sugar and baking powder and half teaspoon salt, mixed with enough cold water to make a nice batter. Beat all well together and bake on griddle. Potato Cakes — Six boiled potatoes cooled and mashed through a colander (cold potatoes maybe used), two eggs, three tablespoons flour, sweet milk to make rather stiff" batter, salt, and a little pepper if liked. Fry on griddle. Nice with butter, syrup or jam. For Grated Potato Cakes., after peeling and washing potatoes, wipe dry, grate <|uickly and to each cup grated potato allow one egg, and heaping tablespoon flour. Beat potato and egg thoroughly five minutes, add flour and teaspoon salt. Have tablespoon drippings or lard in frying-pan, put in batter to cover l>ottom half inch thick, and there must be enough fat to show around the edge of cake. When brown turn and brown the other side. Place in oven on plate and bake a second one, adding more fat to pan if necessary, then a third, etc., till all are baked. Place in layers and serve at table cut as jelly cake, only larger slices. Make in the proportion of one grated po- tato to each person. These are nice for breakfast or tea and with potato slaw, cake or fruit and a cup tea, coffee or chocolate, one has almost a ''company tea." Rye Cakes. — Warm a quart new milk, beat two eggs very light, and add gradually with sufficient rye meal to make a moderate bat- ter, putting in the meal a handful at a time ; add a saltspoon salt GRIDDLE CAKES. 383 and large tablespoon any fresh yeast. Beat very light and put in a warm place to rise. Bake on hot griddle and eat with butter, molasses, or honey. Corn Cakes may be made after this recipe, or use rye and corn in equal proportions. Rice Cakes. — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold mix one quart sweet milk, the yolks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter ; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one teaspoon soda, and two of cream tartar ; add a lit- tle salt, and lastly the whites of eggs ; bake on a griddle. A nice Avay to serve is to spread them Kioe cakea. while hot with butter, and almost any kind of preserves or jelly ; roll them up neatly, cut off the ends, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve immediately. Or boil until soft a half pound rice, drain off water, mash well, stir in butter size of an egg, and when cold add six eggs beaten very light, pint flour, and quart lukewarm milk. Beat all well together, and bake on a hot griddle. Squash Cakes. — One cup cooked and sifted squash, two eggs, one and a half pints milk, little salt, flour to make good batter, and two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take one pint flour, scant pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half as much soda, four tablespoons sugar, two cups sifted squash. Mix the flour with the other dry ingredients, and rub through a sieve ; add beaten eggs and milk to the squash, and pour on the flour. Beat till smooth and light and bake on griddle. Or take a half pint cold stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colander ; mix with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint each Graham flour and corn meal, half teaspoon salt, heaping tea- spoon baking powder. Mix all smoothly and thoroughly into a bat- ter and bake quickly on hot griddle. 384 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. ICES AISTD ICE-CREAM, Perfectly fresh sweet cream makes the most delicious ice-cream, and what we term double cream, standing twenty-four hours, is best. This sweetened and flavored gives the justly renowned P/^/Zac/eZj^A /a Ice-cream, having a cream-white tint and a full rich flavor. It is made either of cooked or uncooked cream ; the former gives a light snowy texture, greatly increased in quantity but not as fine in quality as if the cream is cooked, by placing in a custard kettle, stir- ring often till water in outer pan boils, then adding sugar, taking off fire, flavoring, letting stand a moment, straining, cooling and freez- ing as directed hereafter. This gives a cream of greater body and richness and prevents any tendency to curdling if cream should ac- cidentally not be perfectly fresh, caused by very hot sultry weather, or a passing thunder-storm. This is made more delicious, adding light- ness to the richness, by reserving a part of cream, whipping it and adding when cream is half frozen, beating it well in with a wooden paddle ; and less flavoring is needed, a quarter less at least, if it is added to the whipped cream, as freezing diminishes the strength of flavoring ; consequently, when added before freezing, the cream must be over-flavored. Freezing also lessens the strength of the sugar, so if the cream preparation is sweetened to taste, one must also over- sweeten. For whipped cream some let single cream stand twelve hours after skimming, and then skim off" the richer portion, thus obtaining the "cream of the cream." It will be so rich that it can all be whipped to a stiff froth without any remainder. This is the true double-cream. When eggs are added to the cream before freezing, making a custard, it is known as Neapolitan Ice-cream, and as it contains a ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 385 large proportion of eggs, yields an ice as solid, rich and smooth as the finest butter, and has a pronounced custard flavor, and lemon-yel- low color. It is prepared as follows : Strain and beat yolks of eggs to a smooth cream, add sugar and beat again. Strain and whisk the whites to a froth as stiff as possible, stir briskly into the yolks and sugar, and mix with the cream. Cook in a custard kettle or a pail set within a kettle of boiling water over a brisk fire, stirring con- stantly, until it slightly coats a knife blade dipped into it, and does not run. Be careful not to let it curdle. Take off fire, strain through a wire sieve (or a linen crash towel kept for the purpose and marked "Ice Cream,") into a crock or pan, cover with gauze, and let stand till cool, then freeze. It is well to reserve some of the cream and whip and add as above. These two creams are made of the pure cream ; when made of part new milk and cream it is called Lac- teanola Ice-cream and is made either with or without eggs : With Eggs^ by boiling the new milk, reserving a part of it, in custard ket- tle and adding beaten yolks of eggs mixed with the reserved milk and stirred slowly into the hot milk ; let cook two or three min- utes, add sugar and in few moments take from fire and strain while hot, as above ; cool, add double cream and flavoring, or add only part of the cream. Set custard in a cool jilace and when ready to freeze add well-frothed whites, and when half frozen, the reserved cream, whipped. Or Without Eqgs^ by boiling the milk, as above, and adding a rounded tablespoon flour (if cream to be added is very thick, use less), or a little less of corn-starch or arrowroot, to every quart milk, mixed smoothly with a part of the milk ; let cook fifteen minutes, then add sugar and cook five minutes, stirring all the time ; remove from fire, strain and put in a cool place ; when cold and ready to freeze add part of the cream and all the flavoring, and when half frozen, the rest of the cream, whipped ; or after straining, let cool and then freeze and when half frozen add all the cream, whipped, and with it the flavoring as directed above. If cream does not whip easily add beaten white of an egg. Sugar is not added to the whipped cream. In any of the methods the mixture should be placed in a bed of ice to cool so that it may be ice-oold when put in freezer, as it will then freeze easier, quicker and smoother and require less ice. It is also well when poured in can to let stand five or ten minutes before freezing as it will then surely be thoroughly chilled, as the salt with the ice makes a more intense 386 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. cold. When eggs are used, strain through a sieve — they beat easier and smoother for it; if yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, strain each before beating. Fruit Ice-creams^ when of berries, are made in proportion of a quart cream, a quart fruit and a pound sugar, allowing the berries to stand for awhile well sprinkled with part of the sugar, mashing, straining the juice, adding the rest of sugar to it, and stirring till a clear syrup, and then adding to the ice-cold mixture just before commencing to freeze, or beating into it after it is frozen, which is the better way. In the latter case use in preparing the cream or custard, half the sugar to be used in recipe and mix the rest with the fruit juice and stir in when frozen. If the fruiti?, preferred in the cream, cut into dice the firm-fleshed fruits such as the pine-apple, apricot, peach and plum, mix lightly with half the sugar and when it is dissolved mix with frozen cream ; for strawberries and raspberries, mash or chop gently, add sugar and mix with the frozen cream. In addition to this, add whipped cream and sweetened whole berries just as the cream is ready to serve, in the propor- tion of a cup berries and a pint of whipped cream to three pints of the frozen mixture. Canned berries may be used in the same way. Or a pint mashed berries or peaches, cut fine, added to a quart ordinary ice-cream, when frozen makes a delicious Fruit Ice-cream. In either case, with juice or fruit, let stand in freezer till ready to serve, or put in molds and pack as directed hereafter. In flavoring with vanilla the vanilla bean may be used by split- ting in two, cutting in pieces and cooking in the milk ; the flavor- ing for Almond Creavi should be prepared by blanching and pound- ing the kernels to a paste with rose water, using arrowroot for thick- ening. Always use the Princesse Almond. For Cocoa-nut Ice- cream, grate cocoa-nut and add to the cream and sugar just before freezing. The milk should never be heated for pine-apple, straw- berry, or raspberry cream. It is often desirable to be able to make ice-creams and water-ices of the summer fruits when they are out of season and at same time retain as much as possible of their ac- customed flavor and freshness, also to avail one's self of the finest fruits of the various kinds at the lowest rates obtainable in the height of the season, and for this purpose make plentifully of Fruit Flavors, as given in Jams and Jellies. For making ice-cream use ICES Am> ICE-CREAM. 387 either fine granulated sugar or white sifted sugar, except where cream or milk is not cooked, then use best pulverized sugar. Both the Lacteanola and Philadelphia, being eggless, are con- sidered better adapted to be used with fruit, as the eggs and fruit flavors are not thought to blend well, but this is a matter of taste. The eggless creams are more economical where one has plenty of cream, as each dozen eggs requires half pound sugar to sweeten them and each quart cream or milk half pound, also. Any propor- tion of eggs may be used to a quart of milk or cream, using sugar in quantity to correspond, viz : for three eggs, eighth pound sugar, making with the half pound sugar for milk, five-eighths pound sugar. A freezer — White Mountain, Peerless or any of the best patent freezers — a wooden paddle made of hickory, maple, ash or oak, a fine wire sieve or crash strainer, seem almost a necessity in making ices and ice-creams, and there are also many other articles used which are given in Kitchen Utensils ; of course one can make them without so complete an outfit but the process is more tedious. Put ice in a coarse coffee-sack, pound with an ax or mallet until some lumps are size of an egg and most of them as small as a hickory-nut ; see that the freezer is properly set in tub, the beater in the socket, the cover secure, and a cloth in the hole and tin cup inverted over it, first hav- ing put on cross-piece, and turned the crank to see if everything is right; now place around it a layer of ice three or four inches thick, then a thin layer of salt — rock salt pounded fine or the common coarse salt is best, some advise sea salt, but never use table salt, as it causes the ice to melt too rapidly — then ice again, then salt, and so on until packed full, with a layer of ice last. The propor- tion should be about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. Pack very solid, pounding with a broom-handle or stick, then remove the cover and pour in the ice-cold preparation, filling only two-thirds full, leaving room for expansion ; replace cover and after five or ten min- utes pack ice down again and begin to freeze, turning the crank slowly and steadily until rather difiicult to turn ; open can, add whipped cream, beat in well with wooden paddle, cover, and again turn till difficult to turn longer ; some claim this last turning of eight or ten minutes should be as rapid as possible. Half an hour will freeze it, although the make of freezer and quality and quantity of cream govern the time, pure cream taking the longest. Unless dan- 388 ICE3 AND ICE-CREAM. ger of water entering can, do not draw off while freezing as the in- tense cold of the water assists greatly in freezing. When done, brush ice and salt from and remove the cover, take out beater, scrape the cream down from the sides of freezer, beat well several minutes with a wooden paddle, replace the cover, fill the hole with a cork or a clean cloth and over this invert a tin cup, let off all the water, pack again with ice (using salt at bottom and between layers but none at top of tub), heap ice on the cover, spread over it a piece of carpet or a thick woolen blanket kept for this purpose, and set away in a cool place to harden two or three hours, or until needed. Some wet the blanket or carpet well with the icy brine that was drawn off and after an hour or two open the freezer, scrape down and beat cream again, and pack down with fresh ice and salt. In ver}^ warm weather it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a second, or even a third time ; the only rule is that as often as the brine appears at the top, causing the ice to float, it must be drawn off, and the tub repacked. Keep the blanket Avet with the brine ; the evaporation causes intense cold, and helps to keep the ice from wasting, but when "brine blanket" is used cover top of freezer first witli a dry blanket, then ice, etc. About twenty-five pounds ice is necessary fur two or three gallons ice-cream in summer time, and the best is that whicli is por- ous and full of air cells, commonly called ''snow ice." Snow itself is also an excellent freezing material and as it is often desirable to be able to make ices in the winter season, when there is no ice in the house, if there be snow upon the ground it makes an excellent substitute. It needs only to be packed down firmly in the freezing tub, and enough water added to make a thick mush ; then put in the salt, and freeze as usual. Large freezers require much less ice and salt, in proportion to their contents, than small ones; for a gallon freezer use about ten pints pounded ice, and three of salt. If a larger proportion of salt is used than one-fourth, the cream will freeze sooner but will not be so smooth and rich, and some only take one-fifth salt. Do not let a grain of salt or a drop of brine get into the cream. For evening use, cream should be cooked in the morning, cooled and frozen by mid-day. If wanted at the noon meal, cook previous evening, cool overnight, and freeze early next morning, or it may be cooked very early in morning. It needs several hours to harden and ripen ; newly frozen cream is always somewhat mushy, and wanting in body and flavor. The creams produced by this method, ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 389 faithfully and skillfully applied, will be firm, smooth and fine- grained like the best butter or jelly. Some freeze in a warm place, believing that the more rapid the melting of the ice the quicker the cream freezes. If cream begins to melt while serving, beat up well from the bottom with the long wooden paddle. After the last beating and before covering again with ice, if wished molded, fill cream solidly in every part of mold, that there may be no air spaces, working up and down with a spoon, which presses the cream in every part and also lightens it ; heap it a lit- tle above the brim, press the cover doAvnhard, bind a buttered cloth over the joint, or use buttered or oiled paper put on with paste or gum tragacanth, bury it in a pan or tub of ice and salt and cover with a blanket. If it be a figure or design in two parts, fill each half of mold a little more than full ; the excess squeezes out on shutting it. Seme cover top of cream in mold with thick Avhite paper. When ready to serve, wash mold with cold water to remove the brine ; take off cloth, and wipe mold dry, lift off cover, turn mold over on a plate, and if room is warm, it will slip off the cream in a few seconds. It is better not to use warm water on the mold ; it causes the cream to melt and run down the surface in unsightly streams. The variety of molds is very large, from the plain pyra- mid to the most elaborate combinations of figures, animals, flowers and fruits, corresponding to the flavor, as oranges for orange ice-cream, etc., and new designs and devices are brought out every year. The Pyramid is made of a great many styles, both plain and fluted, and is useful for center-pieces, either of one or of several varieties and colors of creams or water-ices, put in layers. The Brick is a plain, oblong mold, with straight, slightly tapering sides. It is made of several sizes, from a pint to two quarts. The Cabinet, so called from its being used for Cabinet puddings, is oval in shape, about nine inches long, six inches wide, and four inches deep, and contains two quarts. It is a very convenient m^old for Tutti Frutti, blanc-mange, all kinds of boiled puddings, and many sorts of cake. A small cab- inet mold, holding enough to serve one guest, is four inches long, two inches wide and two inches deep. All these molds have tightly fitting covers and tapering sides, to allow their contents to be easily turned out. In the final packing of salt and ice, and when molds are packed, if rock salt is used, have it in small lumps size of a pea. The directions for making Self-freezing Ice-cream with an 390 ICES AND TCE-CREAM. old fashioned freezer without patent inside, are as follows : After preparing th^^ freezer as above and placing the cream or custard in can, remove lid carefully, and with a long wooden paddle beat the cream like batter steadily for about five or six minutes. Replace lid, pack two inches of pounded ice over it, spread above all several folds of blanket or carpet, and leave it untouched for an hour ; at the end of that time remove the ice from above the freezer-lid, wipe off carefully and open the freezer. Its sides will be lined with a thick layer of frozen cream. Displace this with the paddle, work- ing every part of it loose ; beat up cream again firmly and vigorously for fifteen or twenty minutes, until it is a smooth, half-congealed paste. The perfection of the ice-cream depends upon the thorough- ness of the beating at this point. Put on cover again, pack in more ice and salt, turn off brine, cover freezer entirely with ice, and spread the carpet over all. At the end of an hour or two again turn off brine and add fresh ice and salt, but do not open the freezer for two hours more. At that time take the freezer from the ice, open it, wrap a towel wet in hot water about the lower part and turn out a solid column of ice-cream, close grained, firm and delicious. Any of the recipes for ice-cream may be frozen in this way. Or they may be frozen without any freezer, by simply placing in a covered tin pail, setting latter in an ordinary wooden bucket, and proceeding as above directed for Self-freezing Ice-cream, always remembering to not much more than half fill can or pail, as the action of cream against sides of can when it is beaten hastens the freezing. A delicate way of serving ice-cream is to place upon it a sf oon of whipped cream, and the most elaborate is to enclose it in me- ringues or kisses (see Confectionery). Fill the shells with whatever ice-cream or other ices prepared, put together by twos, thus forming a large egg, tie it around with a ribbon of suitable color, and send to table. When several kinds are served at one time, they are desig- nated by ribbons of the same color as the creams or ices ; white for almond or vanilla, brown for chocolate, pale and deep yellow for lemon, pine-apple and orange, pink for strawberry, green for pistachio, fawn for peach and apricot, and so for all the others. Sometimes, after filling, the edges of the shells are lightly touched with the soft part that was removed, to make them stick together. For Mar- hied Meringues^ fill with two or more creams of different colors, as for example, vanilla in one-half and chocolate in the other, or straw- ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 391 berry and orange, lemon and pistachio, peach and almond, and any other combination fancy may dictate. A pleasing contrast also is furnished by filling one-half with ice-cream and the other with water- ice, or one with a vanity and the other with frozen fruit. The ribbons should be double-faced and of shades to correspond with and indi- cate the contents ; or take plain ribbons of the two colors required, stitch two pieces, one of each color, together at ends, each half the en- tire length wished, and tie around the meringue, finishing in a bow- knot, one-half of the bow thus being of each color. Angel or Cream Cake, Cream Sandwiches, White Lady Fingers, or Centennial Drops are nice served with Ice-cream. For freezing small molds and also Bisque or Biscuit Glace have a large tin mold, either square or rectangular ; fill this with little paper cases, which must fit the tin mold exactly in every part. These little cases may be made round, oval, oblong, square, or as little baskets, and about the size of a patty pan, of smooth, heavy white paper or light card-board, and a frill of lace paper put around the edge gives a pretty effect ; fill with the mixture, and cover mold with a hermetically fitting top. In the bottom of a Avooden box, made for the purpose eight inches larger each way, with a cover and handles, put about six or eight inches of pounded ice and coarse salt in alternate layers; in this place tin mold of filled cases with another eight inches of ice and salt ; cover the whole with a thick, heavy cloth, or blanket, and let stand six or eight hours. The box containing ice should have a small plugged hole, to allow escape of water from melted ice. When mold is taken from ice, wipe well before opening, to prevent any salt-water getting in. Or a more elaborate square tin box is made with shelves, with feet at each cor- ner to support them, and called a "cave," and when shelves are filled and placed in, one above the other, is also packed in the outer box with ice and salt. Then there is a patent cave that is round like an ice-cream freezer ; to fill, put shelf into can, packed as for ice-cream, cover with cases, then another shelf and so on till all are added ; put on lid, press tightly down, bind the joint like any mold, cover with pounded ice, then with a woolen cloth or blanket, then ice and salt and the "brine blanket." Let stand as ice-cream, draw- ing off water and repacking if necessary. There should be a hole, with a wooden plug, in the side of ice-tub just above bottom the same as in an ice-cream freezer. Any one having the latter may 392 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. have tin shelves made to fit the can, with three supports or feet two or- three inches high, and if wished an extra cover without any oj^ and freeze. Pour into small glasses, and arrange in dish as illustrated, on a foun- dation of green leaves ; or mash two quarts strawberries with two pounds sugar ; let Strawberry ico. staud au hour or more, squeeze in a crash strainer, pressing out all juice, add equal measure water , and when half frozen, add the white of one egg beaten with tablespoon pulver- ized sugar. Colorings. — For Blue rub a piece of indigo with a little water and add by drops to the mixture to be colored until the desired shade is reached. For Brown use grated chocolate, or for a very light brown. Caramel., which is prepared for immediate use by put- ting cup granulated sugar in iron skillet or frying-pan set over fire, and stirring constantly until a dark brown color and as thick as molasses. When properly done a cup sugar will make five table- spoons coloring. When preparing for bottling, boil a longer time, then add a half pint water and boil again, until a little cooled in saucer is found thick as molasses or honey. If too thick, or if it candies, add a little more water and boil again. Bottle, and if kept corked it will never spoil. For Green use either the Parsley or Spinach Coloring, given on page 180. For PinJc use strawberry, currant or cranberry juice or jelly. If a bright Bedis desired, mix 412 ICES AJH) ICE-CREAM. one drachm each pulverized alum and cream tartar, four drachms powdered cochineal, two ounces loaf sugar and saltspoon soda ; or same proportions in level tablespoons are two-thirds tablespoon pul- verized alum, half tablespoon cream tartar, two and a half of pow- dered cochineal, four of pounded loaf sugar and the saltspoon soda ; boil ten minutes in half pint pure soft water and when cool bottle and cook for use. For Yellow, use the juice of a carrot or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice or a lit- tle water, and squeezed through a cloth. When a deeper color is wanted boil a little American saffron with a little water till a bright yellow, strain and cool, and use enough to give desired shade ; some use a mixture of an ounce turmeric with four of deodorized alcohol, shaking till dissolved and then straining and bottling. No objec- tion can be made to the use of any of the above, save perhaps to the blue, which is very seldom used, and only for Ornamental Icing. The others are all fruit or vegetable preparations, and their use adds greatly to the handsome appearance of ices and ice-creams, icing, jellies, cakes, creams and pudding and other sauces. To guard against getting in too much coloring, use by putting in a very little at first, mixing well, then add a very little more until aesired shade is obtained. Gopher Orange Ice — ^lake a syrup of three pints water end one quart sugar; Avhen cool add two gills lemon juice and three of orange juice ; freeze and when half frozen add white of one egg, bent- en well with tablespoon sugar. Thoroughly beat it with the ice, finish freezing and serve. Strawberries or slices of pineapples gently stir- red ihrovLghjust before serving (if added too long before, they freeze and are unpleasant to eat) make a delicious variety. Pine-apple Ice may be made of canned pine-apple using pint of juice, ana gill lemon juice with above proportion of syrup, adding the pine-a})}>le cut in dice just before serving, if wished. With all ices it is always better to add a gill of lemon juice, as the acid assists in the freezing and also adds to the flavor. Any proportions of the recipe may be made ; above makes about two dozen dishes. ICING. 413 ICING-. Nothing adds more to the elegance of a ■well spread table then a handsomely iced and ornamented cake, which with a little care and painstaking can as well be prepared at home as ordered from the caterer, and at much less expense. For a plain quickly made icing for a loaf of cake of ordinary size take white of one egg and eleven heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar. If obtainable, use the confectioners' sugar known as ''XXX." Be careful not to get in any of the yolk of the eggs, as then the icing will not beat up well, and be sure the bowl, spoon or spatula, and all utensils used are perfectly free from grease. Beat well, and do not attempt to make the icing thick and stiff by adding sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing de- pends upon good beating as well as quantity ^ ' -" fr^ift of sugar. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and ^^'"' -*i2±s^p' add pulverized sugar gradually, beating all vrooien spamia. the time. A wooden spatula is better than a spoon for beating in the sugar. There are various opinions about the length of time icing should be beaten, some giving half an hour, others a much shorter time. Some break the whites into a broad platter and at once begin adding sugar, and keep adding gradually, beating well all the while until all sugar is dissolved and the icing is perfectly smooth. Thirty minutes' beating ought to be sufficient. Lastly, add flavoring, rose, pine-apple or almond for white or delicate cake, and lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake. The same amount of material, prepared with the whites of eggs unbeaten, will make one- third less icing than if the eggs are beaten to a stiff froth before adding the sugar; but those who prefer this method think the icing is enough smoother and softer to pay for the extra quantity required. There is a medium method much used by the best of 414 ICING. housekeepers ; the eggs are beaten to a slight foam, sugar added gradually, or all at once, and when thoroughly incorporated, flavor and use. Sometimes the whites of eggs will not froth readily, when add a pinch of alum, sugar, salt or soda; a teaspoon lemon juice or a little citric acid whitens icing, and the white of one egg whipped separately and beaten in just before putting on the cake makes the icing smooth and glossy. A little corn-starch helps to thicken ic- ing. If the flavor is lemon juice, allow more sugar for the additional liquid. Have the icing ready when the cake is baked and be sure that it is thoroughly beaten before removing cake from oven; if pos- sible, have some one beating while cake is being removed. Invert a common tin milk-pan, placing it on a clean paper, so that if any icing falls off" it can be used again, then place the cake on the pan, trim ofi'all unsightly excrescences with a clean, sharp knife and af)- ply icing, pouring it around the center of the cake and smoothing ofi" as quickly as possible with a knife ; it should run over the cake, be- coming as smooth as glass, and adhere firmly to it. If the icing is a little stiff dip the knife in cold water. Dredging the cake well with flour when taken from the oven and wiping carefully before ic- ing will keep the icing from running ; when icing only the top of cake, place a rim of stiff white paper around it to keep the icing in place until it sets. If but one person is engaged in preparing cake and ic- ing, and must necessarily stop beating while getting the cake in readiness, it will be best to beat the icing a few minutes again be- fore placing on cake. As eggs vary in size, some common sense must be used in the quantity of sugar. Practice only will teach just how stiff icing ought to be. An excellent proportion is three-fourths teacup pulverized sugar to the white of one full-sized egg, but more sugar is sometimes required. In preparing for a large party, when it is inconvenient to ice each cake as it is taken from the oven, and a number have become cold, place in the oven to heat before icing. If wanted very nice, put the icing on in two coats, letting the first dry before putting on the second, when the icing left may be sufH- ciently thinned with water, if necessary, to work smoothly, or more icing may be prepared, taking care to have it just soft enough to run smoothly, and yet not run off cake — better to be a little too stiff than too thin. To apply the second coat, place the icing in a lump in center of cake, and let it run level of its own accord ; or if a lit- ICING. 415 tie stiff, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite to edge of cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the edge of itself ; if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake and shake it a little, which will cause all the rough parts to become smooth. To ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar to the icing, and beat it in well ; then with the knife place it on the sides of cake until fully covered ; and by holding the knife perpendicularly, with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the icing, draw it all around the side of the cake ; when it comes round to the starting point, suddenly give the knife a twist, and turn the back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, remove the edge from contact with the icing. If this is done neatly and quickly one will hardly be able to find where it is joined. The cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for the ornamental icing or piping. Ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. It is nice when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the cake in slices. Almond Icing. — Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting them in boiling water, taking off skins, and spreading upon a dry cloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till well pulverized : mix carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters pint powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon vanilla or lemon, ice the cake and dry in a cool oven or in the open air when weather is pleasant. Or take two cups sugar, pour over a half cup boiling water, cook until ropy ; beat whites of two eggs, stir into sugar and beat until cold ; add flavoring extract (bitter almonds is best), and one and a half cups blanched and chopped sweet al- monds. Boiled Icing. — Beat white of one egg to a stiff froth ; boil one cup granulated sugar and one-half gill or four tablespoons water till it threads when dropped from spoon. Pour in a fine stream while boiling hot, into the beaten egg, stirring briskly all the time and con- tinue stirring the mixture in the "round and round" way, never stop- ping till icing is thick and cold. Flavor as liked. For Confectioner'^ s Boiled Icing, take whites of six eggs and beat to a stiff froth with half pound sifted granulated sugar. Boil another half pound sugar with a pint water (adding piece of cream tartar size of a pea) until a drop taken on the finger (first dip the finger in cold water) will pull into a fine thread by touching with the thumb. Then pour this 416 ICES. into the whites of eggs, stirring very swiftly to cook all alike, and lastly add six ounces sifted XXX sugar. Or, boil three-fourths pint granulated sugar, moistened with four tablespoons hot water, briskly for five minutes or until it "jingles" on the bottom of the cup when dropped into cold water, or "ropes" or threads when dropped from the end of spoon. Then with left hand, pour the boiling syrup upon the well-beaten whites of three eggs in a small stream, while beating hard with right hand. This is an excellent frosting and may be flavored as liked. If preferred, add halt pound sweet almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste, or a cup of hickory-nut meat.**, chopped fine, and it will be delicious. Some also add half cup stoned and chopped raisins. This will ice the top of two large cakes. An- other method is to beat whites of four eggs with one and one-third pints powdered sugar, stir in a cup water and boil all together until thick and creamy, adding flavoring after taking from fire. For Boiled Icing Without kggs, boil a cup granulated sugar four or five min- tes with five tablespoons milk. Stir on ice or in cool place until cold and creamy, and wait until cake is cold before icing. Economical, and preferred by some to that with eggs. Any of the above recipes makes a nice Chocolate Icing with the addition of grated chocolate to taste. Chocolate Icing. — Six rounded tablespoons grated chocolate, one and a half cups powdered sugar, whites of three eggs ; beat whites but very little (they must not become Avhite), add chocolate, stir it in, then pour in the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. An- other method used by confectioners is to put the desired quantity of Baker's eagle cocoa in a pan and place it in boiling water until cocoa is dissolved, then add powdered sugar to taste, and beat it in well ; to give a gloss add also the whites of two eggs, slightly whipped, to everv pound of cocoa used ; beat the sugar and whites of eggs well together, and with a knife spread the cocoa (or rather the chocolate TYow that it has the sugar in it, for chocolate is simply cocoa sweet- ened), evenly on the cake ; be as quick as possible, for as soon as it cools it hardens, if simjile Cocoa Icing is wanted use the cocoa and whites of eggs only ; but if sweet or chocolate icing, add sugar. To help a little in first attempt, add one tablespoon hot water to a pound cocoa ; this will keep it moist and liquid a little longer, but it will take longer to harden. What is known as Cream Chocolate Icing is pre- pared in same manner, using half cocoa and half pure cream, and sweetening to taste. In this case use no whites of eggs, but simply dissolve the cocoa as above described, then add sugar, and afterwards gradually stir in cream. Chocolate icing is also used to ice jelly cakes and other small cakes, and chocolate eclairs ; it may also be used as an icing for anything, and can be piped, ornamented, or decorated with Piping Icing. Cocoa may also be mixed with plain icing; add little or much cocoa as desired, and it may be used for icing a cake or for piping or ornamenting in the same manner as ICES. 417 other icing. For Chocolate Icing With Gelatine^ soak a teaspoon gelatine one or two hours in three tablespoons water. Pour on it one-fourth cup boiling water, and stir in one and two-thirds cups powdered sugar. Grate two squares chocolate and stir into this mixture. Use immediately. For Boiled Chocolate Icing, beat one and two-thirds cups pulverized sugar into unbeaten Avhites of two eggs. Grate two squares chocolate, and put it and one-third cup sugar and four tablespoons boiling water in small frying-pan. Stir over a hot tire until smooth and glossy, and then stir this into beaten whites and sugar. Enough for two loaves or one layer cake. Or for a much richer icing boil two cups granulated sugar and half cup water together for five minutes and add small cup grated chocolate. When a drop hardens in cold w^ater stir four whole eggs in rapidly, beating all the while. Cook five minutes, stir- ring constantly, and flavor with vanilla, if liked. Does not crack nor break, and for this reason is highly prized. To make Chocolate Caramel Icing, take one cup brown sugar, one square Baker's choc- olate, grated, and, one tablespoon water or milk ; simmer gently twenty minutes, and spread on cake while hot. Or boil half cup milk, coffee-cup sug>n-, butter size of an egg and two tablespoons grated chocolate twenry minutes, or till thick. Flavor with vanilla, or some add a pinch best pulverized cinnamon. To ice small cakes with this, take them on a fork and dip into the icing deep enough to ice both top a'^d sides. If to be put together in pyramidal form, ice the bottom ana sides, instead of top, because of the more uniform sur- face. To keep the icing from becoming cold and hard while using, set in a pan of hot water or over steam until all are iced. The above caramel is nice in which to dip the balls made in French Candy. For Spiced Chocolate Icing, warm a half cake chocolate in the oven ten minr*es ; add a heaping cup of sugar, teaspoon cinnamon, half teaspoon each pulverized cloves and ginger, two teaspoons vanilla, pour in a little water, stir all well together and melt to a smooth paste. Clear Icing. — Mix a cup nice gelatine jelly with a teaspoon lemon juice and whites of two eggs until smooth, and pour over the cake. If the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place for a few min- utes in a moderately warm oven. Confectioner's Icing. — Break whites of four eggs into a large shallow platter in a cool room — in summer set on ice — and whip until they foam but do not whiten. Sift in a pound (one and one- third pints) powdered sugar, quite slowly, beating all the time steadily from the bottom so as to bring up every drop of egg at each sweep of the egg whip, and so continue until the mixture is as white and fine as snow, and can be cut with a knife as clean and smooth as if it were cake, when it is ready for use. Apply in two coats. Suf- 418 ICING. ficient for one large or two small loaves of cake, and those who pre- fer a Hard Icing will find nothing better. Cornstarch Icing. — White of an egg beaten to a^tifFfroth, ten heaping teaspoons powdered sugar and one of corn-starch. Eggless Icing. — To one heaping teaspoon laundry starch and just enough cold water to dissolve it, add a little hot water and cook in a pan set in hot water till very thick (or cook in a crock ; either will ])revent its burning or becoming lumpy). Stir in two and two- thirds cui)S sugar while the starch is hot ; iiavor to taste, and spread on while the cake is a little warm. This should be made the day before using, as it takes longer to harden than when made with eggs, but it will never crumble in cutting, and is excellent. French Icing. — Take white of one Q^g Avith twice its bulk in water, about four tablespoons, and beat asstiff as possible ; then add XXX sugar till as thick as plain icing, or so it will spread nicely. It will take al)out one pint sugar, or three-quarters of a pound. This is especially nice for layer cakes, and in building sprinkle over each layer any nut meats liked, English walnuts, hickory nuts or blanched almonds, chopped, and for top layer })lace on in halves. One large egg or two small eggs will ice three layers. Use also for top of large cakes but is not nice for the sides. This is very deli- cious, can be put on in as thick a layer as wished, and is like the French Candy (uncooked), exce])t more water is used; when making it one can use part for icing and thicken the rest for the candy. Gelatine Icing. — Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three table spoon warm water,add a cup pulverized sugar and beat until smooth Flavor to taste. Or soak the gelatine in a tablespoon cold water half an hour; dissolve in two ta])lespoons hot water; add one cup powdered sugar and stir until smooth. Glaze Icing. — Stir beaten white of one egg with a little water and set over boiling water until the mixture boils ; then put in a few drops cold water, stir in a cup ]>owdered sugar, boil to a foam and use. Or stir into one ]iound powdered sugar, one tablespoon cold water; beat whites three eggs a little, not to a stiff froth, and add to the sugar and water ; put in a deep bowl, place in a vessel of boiling Avater and heat. It will become thin and clear, afterward begin to thicken. When quite thick take from fire and stir while it cools till thick enough to spread with a knife. This will ice several ordinary sized cakes. Isinglass Icing. — Pour a half cup boiling water on a sheet isin- glass and stand it in warm place to dissolve slowly. When there is no scum on top add a pound powdered sugar and a heaping teaspoon ICING. 419 corn-starch. When cakes are cold, pour the icing over, smooth it down as little as possible and set away in a cool place to harden. Nice, and much easier than to make icing with eggs. Lemon Icing. — Beat whites of two eggs and two cups sugar to- gether, and add juice and part of the grated rind of two lemons strained. Or make Confectioner's Icing and add the strained juice and zest of one lemon, with eight tablespoons more powdered sugar. Color if desired with a few drops Yellow Coloring. Orange Icing made s«'me, adding also teaspoon lemon juice. Marble Icing. — Cover cake with any plain white icing, let hard- en a little, color some of the icing with chocolate and spread it over the white, and so on as many layers as desired. Spread with a knife and dry in cool oven. Meringue Icing. — A nice icing for pies, puddings, etc., is made by beating the whites of six eggs to a very firm froth, they cannot be beaten too stiff, and if not stiff the meringue will not be good. While beating add a saltspoon salt, and heaping teaspoon powdered sugar ; when well beaten stir in well but very lightly half a pound (a little more than half a pint) powdered sugar; with a knife spread a coating of the meringue all over the pie after baking, and if wanted ornamented fill a cone with the meringue icing and proceed to work out some design. When finished return to oven to take a light brown color. Any design may be worked with this as well as with other icing, but the patterns are larger and are done with a cone with a larger portion cut off the point. For centers of meringue pies use such designs as a swan, an ear of corn, an anchor, a "true lover's knot," a Maltese cross, a bunch of grapes, or whatever fancy dictates ; the pie niay be decorated with fruit jelly in addition to the Meringue Top. mcringuc piping, putting on the jelly with a cone, and in the same manner as the piping. Chocolate is not used on meringue work, neither is the meringue ever colored except a light cream ; pink colored sugar is sometimes sprinkled over it. To color pink simply drop a little cochineal color on some granulated sugar, and rub it together until colored, then dry, rub it apart and keep in bottle ready for use. It will keep its color for years. This icing is used on lemon pies, peach pies, etc. Orange Icing. — Mix a half pound powdered sugar with one tablespoonful each orange juice and boiling water, and half the grat- ed rind of an orange ; beat till fine and smooth, strain, and spread on the cake, while still warm, about an eighth of an inch thick, 4^0 ICING. smoothing it carefully with a wet knife. This is especially nice for sponge cake. Pearl Icing. — Break Avhites of three eggs in clean china bowl with a round bottom. Add about half pound finest powdered sugar and beat vigorously with a wooden spatula till it begins to thicken, then add level saltspoon cream tartar and one drop indigo blue ; add about quarter pound sugar ; continue beating and add more sugar, a teaspoon at a time, until the icing is as thick as wished, using in all about a pound. Plain loinfj. — Beat whites of three eggs until frothy, not white' adding one and a third pint'^ powdered sugar gradually Avith one hand, beating briskly with the other. Flavor with teaspoon vanilla. Another proportion is whites of two eggs to a half pound sugar (a* little more than a half pint), with a little lemon juice or tartaric acid to whiten. When icing sponge cake with plain icing it is an improvement to first grate orange peel over top of cake. Quick Icing. — Put cup sugar into a bowl with a tablespoon lemon juice and unwhipped whites of two eggs, or add the sugar gradually. Beat together until just smooth and pour over the cake ; if the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place in a moderately warm oven. Snow Icing. — Put one pint wliite sugar, unbeaten whites of three eggs and a teaspoon rose or lemon extract into an earthen dish, stir well together and set in saucepan boiling water ; stir con- stantly and cook eight or ten minutes, or until white and glistening. Put on cake while icing is warm, as it hardens quickly. Soft Icing. — Mix a half pound finely pulverized, sifted sugar, with a tablespoon boiling water, and the same of lemon or any fruit juice, and spread at once on the cake while still warm from the oven, about an eighth of an inch thick. Especially nice for all kinds of sponge cake, and other light and dry cakes, such as snow cake, etc. Transparent Icing. — Boil a pound granulated sugar with a half pint water until thick as mucilage : then rub with a wooden spoon against sides of pan until white and milky. Stir in one teaspoon vanilla extract and pour while hot over the top of the cake, com- pletely covering it. Tutti Fruttl Icing. — Boil a pint granulated sugar with a half cup water until it "threads." Pour this into the well-frothed whites of two eggs and beat till cool; mix together a half pound blanched and chopped sweet almonds, and a quarter pound sultana or seed- less raisins, swelled in hot water, and the same of finely chopped citron, and stir into the icing. Very nicfe for sponge and fruit cake. Water Icing. — Take any quantity powdered sugar required, add enough cold water to form a thick paste (it will not take much); ICING. 421 beat well, and if too thin so that it runs too much, add a little more sugar. To every pound sugar, add a level teaspoon cream tartar ; when this icing is prepared, spread it with a knife over the cake, and allow it to dry ; then ornament or decorate it with Piping Icing or currant jelly. This water icing may also be colored a light shade of pink with cochineal, or a light cream color with saffron. For a mauve color, add a drop of indigo blue to the pink color ; but none of these colors must be decided, only a simple tint. Water icing is used for tops of pound, sponge and jelly cakes. Yellow Icing. — Take the yolk of one egg to nine heaping tea- spoons powdered sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Use day it is made. Omameiital Icing. Ornamental icing consists in working two or more colors of icing on one surface — such, for instance, as pink and white, or choco- late and white, either with or without the addition of crystallizing. To ice a cake white and pipe or ornament it with pink pipery, or ice it with pink or chocolate icing and pipe it with white icing, would constitute ornamental icing. But there is another method called "inlaid," which consists of different colored icing on the same sur- face, not simply a different colored piping on icing. To do this take a cone, cut a fine point off, fill it as instructed in Artistic Piping, draw fine lines first straight down one inch apart, then across at same distance at right angles, forming squares one inch across. Fill these in alternately with either white or pink and white, and then chocolate icing or pink and chocolate, which leaves the squares in two colors, as they appear on a chess-board. The icing must be soft enough to just run smoothly ; the lines will prevent it from run- ning together. Any desired pattern may be worked in this manner by simply running a line of piping to form the design, then filling in as above. This may be varied by marking out any design, and with a small pastry brush washing it over with white of egg or gum- water, then covering with fine granulated sugar, either white or colored ; or cover it with powdered chocolate or rolled rock candy, either pink or white; shake off what will not stick, and the design willbe covered with sugar; pipe around the edge of the design with a fine cone of Piping Icing, and it is complete. 422 ORNAMENTAL ICING. Crystallization. — Simply cover the cake while the icing is wet with granulated sugar, white or pink. Or use pink or white sugar or rock cand}' crushed. To crystallize only a portion of the icing, and that in auA' particular design, first allow the icing to dry, then wash the part to be crystallized with Avhite of egg or gum-water, and cover with sugar ; then shake off what will not remain on. Artistic Pqnng vnth Diagrams. — For the benefit of those who wish to excel in the art of ornamenting bride or other cakes with icing, technically called "piping," a sheet of diagrams is given which almost explains itself, and will recjuire but little study by those having a taste for artistic work, and by mastering this sheet of diagrams before attempting anything more elaborate, one will soon be able to ornament a cake equal to an expert. This applies to all kinds of ornamenting, as it is all done in the same manner, no mat- ter whether the material used be butter, lard, or savory jelly for the decoration of tongues, roast chicken, hams, etc., or sweet jelly, choco- late or sugar for the ornamentation of all kinds of cakes. To use jelly for decorating or piping cakes, set in a place where it will get just warm enough to pass through the cone with a gentle pressure ; in cold weather it is well to also beat it with a spoon, making it of uniform consistency. When ready for use fill cone with it, and proceed as directed for piping, using cone as if it contained icing. Piping Icing. — Prepare in same manner as plain icing, Init make stifi' enough to retain its shape, or at least so that it will not run smoothly b}' adding a little more sugar (a teaspoon perhaps), and a little extra beating. To use it, fill the meringue bag already described in confectionery, or have ready some paper cones, made by folding or rolling up a piece of paper in form of a cornet, and se- curing joint with a little mucilage or white of eggs (see No. 1, in page of diagrams) ; with a sharp knife cut off point of cone so as to leave hole any size needed, from a pin's size to half an inch in diameter (see 2, for plain round work). If a star is wished (3), cut off point of cone to form an aperture equal to center of star, then cutout points, as shown in 22. If for a leaf, cut as shown in 24. To save trouble of cutting cones use little brass tubes, made for the purpose, to be had at a cost of from ten to fifteen cents each. In using these cut off point of paper cone large enough to allow tube to come through half its length. Fill the cones three-fourths full with pre- pared icing, fold down top securely, so the icing will not force back, and commence the ornamentation. Have the cake ready iced, and mark out with a lead-pencil as lightly as possible the design on the cake; then go over design wifh the cones of icing, as hereafter described, until the design is complete. It is of course necessary to have first mastered the diagrams in order to so arrange the vari- ous ones as to form a harmonious whole and produce an artistic design. OODOoooo,. ooooO&ooooo qoOOOo^ j^^-^VV^ 423 42-4 ORNAMENTAL ICING. To practice the use of the cones, procure a perfectly smooth walnut board, about twelve inches square. This being dark and the icing white the work can be easily seen, and if every thing is clean the sugar need not be wasted, as it can be scraped off and used for other purposes. Fill a cone with icing, take it in left hand, and place thumb of right hand on the folded part or top ; use thumb to press on cone to force out icing at point, in same manner as when using a syringe. Force out the icing with regular and even pressure, and draw a number of fine lines, as even and straight as possible, by dropping point of cone in left hand corner of board, and ^\ith an onward mo- tion, in accordance with the flow of icing, which will be little or much, in proportion to pressure given tube, run it straight on to right hand corner (4). This line can be made larger by pressing harder on cone. Repeat this, giving cone a zigzag motion (5) ; then commence light, gradually increasing pressure, to produce a line small at one end and large at the other (6) ; reverse by beginning heavy and finishing light (7). Disconnect cone from icing, by taking off pressure from cone, and giving a quick, sudden upward jerk. Do some cross stringing (8), then 9 to 17; with same cone, held perpendicularly, (pushingthe icing out till drop is required size, then suddenly detach in manner above mentioned), drop different sized dots (18 to 20) ; then commencing at large end first and gradu- ally drawing fine thread, do No. 21. Take the star cut cone (22), and drop star dots, same as in 18, 19, and 20; with a circular or rotary motion, make roses (23) ; then repeat with the star cone all done with plain round cone. Next take the leaf cone (24), and by beginning at large end of leaf first, and gradually drawing to a point, make the leaf as long as desired (25) ; form veins in leaf by giving cone a wavy motion. Then put two together (26), and with star cone add a rose (27), then three leaves and a rose (28) ; then four, as in 29; then five, with simple plain dot in center (30). With plain round cone, make 31, adding 21 for top finish ; with same cone, make stems of 32 and 33, and with leaf cone add leaves. Do the same in 34, adding a ring of dots, also a rose, with star cone ; next, with same plain round cone, do 35, by giving cone a wavy motion ; also 3G, by giving it a sudden jerk, first to left, then to right, then straight down middle, as shown in 37. This seems a good deal on paper, but can all be done on a board very easily if one has the patience to go slowly at first. Having gone thus far, one may now form an original design by making whatever com])ination fancy dictates, from the scrolls, lines, curves, etc., shown in diagrams; it may be somewhat crude at first, but practice will make perfect. As an example, which will explain the whole, first make a simple combination, producing a l)uneh of grapes. "With leaf cone make four leaves (38), and with plain round ORNAMENTAL ICING. 425 cone add stem ; also, with same kind of cone, only cut a little larger to make a larger drop, add grapes by making a succession of dots, gradually making higher in the middle (39) ; then as a finish, with glain small cone add the scroll shown running oyer the grapes. An- other illustration : To make a large leaf, in imitation of those used on bride's cake, first mark the outline of leaf (40), and with plain round cone run cross lines, as shown in 8, also in 41 ; then with plain round cone add the edge in dots, shown in 20 and 42. For further illustration, see cut for top of jelly or other cake (page 429) made up of grapes and leaves desrcribed. Heavy and light work may be done with same cone by adding pressure ; for instance, if using a cone with fine point, by drawing with a regular motion and even pressure, a line of icing is produced the same size as the hole though which it comes ; but if the cone is drawn along slower than icing comes out, a heavier line results ; to make a very fine line with same cone, use even pressure, but draw cone along very fast; bear in mind there is a limit to size, and when that is reached to press harder will burst the cone ; when the limit is reached, if a larger flow is wanted have another cone with larger opening at point. This applies to all shapes, whether round, star, or leaf. The cone may be used same as a pen, pressing heavy and light ; for example, if making a scroll, like 11, with fine round cone, when the bend of scroll is reached giving the cone a little more pressure causes more sugar to flow, thus producing the fullness in the curve ; when this is done withdraw pressure and continue as before. Bride's Cake. — A reference to the design for bride's cake top, No. 1, will show that it is a combination of the scrolls, etc., given in the diagrams for artistic piping ; it is not given as a design or a work of art, but sim- ply to show how those scrolls, etc., can be connected and arranged so as to form a de- sign. After making this, one will be sur- )rised to find how easy a task a second will )e. Note that this design is made up of 36, 20, 13, 18, 6, 8, and 21 of the diagrams ; also note that two leaves are of one pattern and two of another. When pip- ing cake make all four leaves of same Brides Cake Top, No. 1. pattern, whichevcr preferred. The two are given simply to illustrate the diagrams. A cut for th e side of cake is given for refer- ence if wished to pipe the side. This is 17 in _ the diagrams, and the bottom is finished off with simple, plain round dots (2 in diagrams), all of one size. The cut for bride's cake top No. Sides for Cakes. 426 ORNAMENTAL ICING. 2 is more correct as a design, and should be atteni]>ted alter practicing on design No. 1. These designs will answer for top of ~ any cake as well as bride's cake; and for latter, use nothing but white icing, and white piping, and in the center marked "for vase," iiTsert a vase for bouquet, or spray of flowers. The addition of a few sugar roses and silver leaves, procurable at all confec- tioners, will add to the effect. Place the cake on a lace jniper, on a silver or plated salver. The use of orange blossoms is not imperative in the decoration of Bride's Cake Top No. 2. brldc's cakc, thougli generally used. It is also admissil)le to use pink roses or other flowers, very s)>ar- ingly, or even yellow to match with the orange blossoms, or in place of them ; but use none rather than too many. If the side of bride's cake is not piped, place a silver band round it. This can be pro- cured of any confectioner. Dessert Cake. — This consists of either a pound or sponge cake mixture baked in a high mold; if no other is at hand use an ice- cream mold as represented in cut. Tlioroughly clean and dry the mold, then warm and butter it with a brush (by warm- ing it the butter goes in all parts), turn it bottom up to drain out all excess of butter, dust with sifted flour, giving it a knock to remove any excess of flour ; place it, small end down, in a tin or pasteboard box to pre- vent its falling over, fill it three-fourths full with the cake mixture and bake in steady heat. Remove it from mold, and when cold, if to be ornamented, have ready some icing thin enough to just run smoothly but not run off. Place cake on a l)late, and with a spoon place the icing on top of cake, and let it run doM'n the sides ; continue this until all parts are covered ; let it drain down a minute or so, then place a knife of cake, remove to another plate, and set in warm place to dry. This method of icing shows up the pattern of the cake nicely. To ornament the cake, simpl}' pipe it, as before described, allowing pattern of cake to be the guide ; where there is no pattern ornament it as fancied, but usually tlie pattern of cake will furnish the design. In an ice-cream mold there is not much ]>attern further than fluting. A cut of one baked in a pyramid ice- cream mold is given, together with some idea as to how to ornament it. "Where the dots appear, substitute red and yellow gum drops, if desired. When the cake is i>iped set it on a plate or salver on lace paper, i>lace a bouquet or spray of flowers on top and add a few silver Dessert Cake. under bottom ORNAMENTAL ICING. 427 leaves. It looks very pretty iced a light pink and piped in white , but do not use chocolate icing, as it sets so soon, unless pretty well accustomed to it. Jelly (7«^^e.— Trim off edge of cake, and give it a thin coating of Water Icing, have a cone of Piping Icing ready and proceed to work out the design given in cut. After making that, any other can be easily made. With cone of white icing or pink, if preferred, pipe on the white lines in cut and fill in between these lines with fruit jelly, using a cone filled with jelly; next, with the leaf cone pipe on the "leaves for the grapes, as de- scribed in diagrams for Artistic Piping, No 38 ; then "with plain round cone pipe on the grapes, as described in No. 39, in diagrams. The edge is simple plain dots of white icing; see diagram No. 2. The bunch of grapes may be ^^^^^^ piped on Avith fruit jelly histead of Jelly "a" Top. Iclug ; chocolatc icing instead of water icing may also be used for the top. Then pipe in icing and jelly as before, or ice with jelh^ instead of either chocolate or water icing. In that case, where jelly was used betAveen the white lines of icing, use chocolate or pink icing. Or dispense with the top icing of either jelly, chocolate, or water icing, if wished, and simply Avork out the design as shown in the white piping and jelly. But the above is most artistic, Charlotte Eus§e. — This maybe made of either sponge or pound- cake mixture, and baked in a fancy mold, but if this is not at hand an ordinary two-quart ice-cream mold will answer the purpose. Al- ter being baked and completely cooled, carefully scoop p out the inside, leaving the walls an inch thick, and fill I Avith whipped cream orrusse filling. Ice the cake A\'ith thin / 1 icing, either pink or Avhite, and pipe in contrasting colors. / \ Thus, if iced Avhite, it should be piped pink, and vice ( j versa. Further ornamentation can be made by a proper dis- /v tribution of pastilles, crystallized fruits, etc., and the AA'hole hjf^^p^ surmounted by a small spray or bouquet of floAA^ers. Another ^^-^-^-^ Avay of making is to use stale sponge or pound-cake ; first cut the base AAdth a sharp knife (see figure 1 in cut), then a piece as in figure 2, then figure 3. Then hollow out cake as above, (see dotted line in 1 and 2) and fill with cream; then piece 3 is added and secured. Next take a thin piece of cake, not more than a quarter of an inch 428 ORNAMENTAL ICINO. in thickness, and cut out pieces 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, and set aside for (^ future use. Then take the artist's spatula and cover the ^...^ whole russe with red or some other colored jelly. This done, <^> place on the pieces 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, in their respective Q— ' places — the jolly will hold them. Leave the cut part out- /^ ^ side, so that none of the baked parts will show, and the de- 1 I '— ' sired effect is produced. Next pipe and otherwise ornament the russe as heretofore directed and finish the wholeby adding a spray or bouquet of flowers on top, or with a bouquet . A- of leaves piped on with a leaf tube. Another way ^^ to make the russe is to cut the base out of ^a a solid piece of cake ; make the hole and fill with ^ cream ; lay on that a thin piece of cake. Then with Sn a cone and tube pile up the cream in pyramid J^^ shape. Have ready six strips cut the proper |4m shape, ?'. e., the same width at the bottom as one J^M of the six sections of the base, and gradually ^^^s^^m, tapering to the top. Place these pieces in their . ^ ^^ ^^ proper position, fasten them with a little icing, ^M|^g^i cover the whole with jelly, as in the other case, ^ ^^^^ 03! ^ or leave plain. In either case pipe and otherwise ^'^'^i ^^^ ^-^ ^ ornament it. If preferable, place the strips to charioue euss.. form piece 3, securing them with icing ; then force cream through the opening on top. Chantilly Custard .—The plates from 1 to 4, inclusive, show the ma^er of making the receptacle for the custard, which is thus described : First, procure a mold for sponge-cake or jelly, about one quart or three pints size, with a fancy fruit or flower top (see plate No. 1). Bake in tliis a cake of sponge or pl?lin pound mixture, as preferred, and when baked and cold — it is all the better if kept for a day or two — cut off the top (see figures 2 and 3), and ice it with thin white icing. When thoroughly dry, lightly col- or the different fruits or flowers with their natural colors. Do not lay on the colors too heavily, or the effect will be spoiled. Next cut out center of cake (see figure 1), and fill cavity thus made with a boiled custard, adding chopped almonds if liked. -^I^^^fc^ When the custard is set and cold replace the top as in ^^^^=^^^'^ figure 2, and pipe the outside of cake in any way liked, following the .'{Srn-*^ y design here given, or the design for dessert cake, or selecting from page of diagrams. The light and dark balls at the bottom of the design given are intended to represent pink and yellow pastilles placed alternately ORNAMENTAL ICES. 429 (see figure 6). But a much easier, cheaper, and more effective mode is simply to stick on gum-drops of ^-t^a^af^^w^v^ — 2 different colors. If a good, clear white gum-drop can be procured use the three colors alternately — red, yellow and white — and the effect is very nice. The beauty of such a piece of work amply repays any lady who has the time and taste, for the trouble of mastering the accom- plishment, and for the small cost of material. The cost of the lat- "^'Sfcl^a. ter, when compared with the price which would be charged by a professional caterer for a similar piece of work, is very small. Raised Pie. — Make dough as for Meat Pie ; roll half inch thick and cut out the base, (2), prick with a fork to prevent blistering, and lay aside on the pan ready for baking. Then prepare the oval bottom, (3), wash over with egg, and place evenly on cen- ter of base. Now roll out dough, half an inch thick^ in a narrow strip, long enough to go all round oval bottom (measure out- side of oval by passing a string around it) ; cut straight and even, one inch wicie. Wet ends, which should be cut slanting to make fit closely, and lower edge, and wrap this around the oval piece wliich lies on base, join- ing ends and bottom edge securely. Now fill case to within half an inch of top with bran, place over it a thin cover of dough (with small hole in center) ; wash the outside (except top, which only serves to keep sides in place,and is not used ) with egg, and bake in a moderate oven till brown. When cold, cut out top, turn out bran, and shell — —Raised pie. is ready for filling. To make cornucopias, fold up dough the same as in making a paper cone, and also fill with bran. Bake separately from pie. Now fill shell with a meat or game filling as in Meat Pies ; place jelly (cut in pieces one-half inch square) on top (6), and mold a but- ter lamb and place on top of it, (7). Add the chopped parsley, (8) ; also place the cornucopias in position. Place cut roots (4) one in each cornucopia (9) ; place sliced lemon on top edge and add small root flowers at base of cornucopias, securing them with butter. Pipe side of pie as illustrated, using butter instead of sugar. 430 JAMS AND JELLIES. JAMS AND JELLIES. It is as important when making jams as when canning that only perfect fruit be used, as if fruit has passed the ripe stage and begun to ferment in the slightest degree the jam will not keep well. The fruit should be carefully cleaned and thoroughly bruised, as mashing it before cooking prevents it from becoming hard. Cook in a porcelain-lined or granite iron -ware preserving kettle. Never put fruit or fruit juice in tin, either f'''*S^ to let stand or to cook. Boil the fruit fifteen or \ ^a twenty minutes and skim before adding the sugar, ^^PPI^fe as the flavor is thus better preserved, Hsually al- ^^^^^iMlmm lowing three-quarters of a pound sugar, granulated 'iiiiiiif^y is best, to a pound of fruit — by measure a scant pint sugar to quart whole fruit, or pint when .reserving ett e. mashcd J aud thcn boil half an hour longer skimming if necessary. Have a plate at hand for the skimmings, which should be added to vinegar barrel, as directed in Economical Vinegar. Use same utensils in making jams as in Canning Fruit, and it is also convenient to have a plate upon which to put spoon, dipper, etc., when not in use. If loaf sugar is used it should be dried and broken into small pieces before mixed with fruit. If left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. Do not remove lid from range, as this will be likely to make the jam burn. To prevent scorching while cooking, jams require almost constant stirring, and every house-keeper should be provided with c, small paddle with handle at right angles with the blade (similar to an apple-butter "stirrer," only smaller), to be used in making jams and JAMS A^'D JELLIES. 431 marmalades. Jams are usually made from the more juicy berries, such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc. ; marma- lades from the firmer fruits, such as pine-apples, peaches and apri- cots. Both require the closest attention, as the slightest degree of burning ruins the flavor. They must be boiled sufficiently, and have plenty of sugar to keep well. To tell when any jam or mar- malade is sufficiently cooked, take out some on a plate and let it cool. If no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and glistening, it is done thoroughly. Pour in small cans, jars or glasses, let cool, and either seal as canned fruit, or secure like jelly, by first pressing paper, cut to fit glasses, dipped in alcohol or brandy, down close on fruit, and then putting on the tin covers ; or if one has not covers, larger papers, brushed on the inside with white of egg, with the edges turned down over the outside of the glasses. Keep in a cool, dry, dark place. Examine every two or three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fermentation the jam must be boiled over again. When jelly glasses or glass cans are used for either jams or jellies, as a precaution against breaking when the hot mixture is poured in, prepare the cans or glasses as directed in last method given on page 146 of Canning Fruits. It has recently been found that cotton is one of the best coverings for any preparation of fruit, as neither light, air nor mois- ture easily penetrates it. Make a covering of the cotton for the top of jelly and jam glasses and tie down over the tin covers or papers. Some housekeepers have excellent success in keeping fruit by pour- ing over tops of cans clarified butter or mutton tallow, a half incli thick, or covering to that depth with fine white sugar. This will apply equally as well to jellies. Apple Jam. — Peel, core and cut apples in thin slices and put in preserving kettle with three-quarters pound white sugar to every pound fruit ; add a few cloves, a small piece ginger and a thin rind of lemon (tied in piece of muslin), stir with a wooden spoon over ({uick fire half an hour, when it will be ready to can or put into glasses. Apricot Jam. — Pare as thinly as possible (by immersion is best) and halve three pounds sound, ripe apricots, and take out stones ; place in deep dish, and strew over half their weight of finely sifted sugar ; let stand overnight. Then put them with syrup that 432 JAM? AND JELLTE!«. will have oozed from them in preserving-kettle, add a few kernels blanched and sliced, and boil very gently half an hour, stirring con- stantly. Put into glasses or cans and cover closely. Or the fruit may be simply stewed tender, and passed through a colander, add- ing sugar, pint for pint ; boil until clear, and put up as above. BlacTiherry Jam. — Measure or weigh and put fresh ripe berries into preserving-kettle, crush to a ])ulp with potato masher, and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, or until about half the juice has boiled away, skimming often ; add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound fruit and finish as directed. Currant and all Berry Jams made same way. Carrot Jam. — Select young carrots, wash and scrape clean, cut in round pieces, put over fire with water to cover and simmer until perfectly soft; then press through puree seive, weigh, and for every pound allow pound sugar, grated rind of a lemon, strained juice of two, and six chopjjcd bitter almonds ; put pulp over the fire with sugar and boil five minutes, then add other ingredients and as soon as these are well mixed put up in self-sealing cans. This is an imi- tation of Apricot Preserves, for which it is a very good substitute, but must be put up in thoroughly tight cans, according to directions for Canning Fruits, or it will not keep. Cherry Jam. — Stem and wash cherries and boil till soft in very little water ; put through colander to remove stones, then return to fire, sweeten to taste, boil thick as other jams and put up same. To make a very nice jam, take six pounds cherries weighed before stoning, stone and boil in their juice until nearly dry ; then add four pounds sugar and pint currant juice and boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour ; skim jam well, keep it well stirred, and a few minutes before done, crack some of the stones and add the kernels j these impart a very deli- cious flavor. Currant Jam. — Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the hands, put in preserving-kettle and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often, and skimming off all scum; then add sugar in pro- portions given and finish and put up as directed in preface. The aple Jelly may be made by preparing the juice of crab-apples and plums as above, mixing the juice in any proportion wished, half and half, or less of either fruit, and finish as in general directions. The marmalade is made in the same way as above. Some add a little ginger root. A bushel apples and peck of plums make forty pints jelly, part crab-apples and part mixed, and sixteen (juart glass cans of mixed marmalade. In making either kind of jelly the fruit may l)e squeezed and juice strained twice tln-ough swiss or crinoline and made into jelly. The pulp can not then be used for marmalade. For a Pich Jfarmalade take the cral)-apples and plain pulp without first straining for jelly and make as in Plum Marmalade. Quince Jelly. — Rub the quinces 'with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with the fruit, boil until very soft but not red ; pour in three-cornered strainer and hang up to drain, occasionally pressing to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard enough to expel the pulp ; some let it hang overnight. To a pint juice allow pint sugar, and boil fifteen minutes, or until it will jelly : pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general direc- FRUIT JELLIES. 443 tioiis. If the quinces are pared and cored before cooking, the pulp can be made into marmalade by adding three-fourths pound sugar, and a fourth pound juicy apples to each pound quinces. If quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and the quinces may be used for preserves. Maspherry Jelly. — Cook red raspberries until the juice separ- ates, then strain and proceed as directed in preface, adding three- fourths as much sugar as juice. Or the juice may be obtained by mashing and straining, without cooking. Care must be exercised in selecting the berries, as if at all over-ripe the juice may not jelly readily. Success is sure, however, if one part currant juice is added to two parts raspberry, and some use half and half. Strawberry Jelly. — Mash the berries and strain through jelly- bag without squeezing. Put juice on stove and follow general di- rections, adding sugar pint for pint. The berries must be firm and freshly gathered, as the slightest tendency to fermentation will pre- vent the juice becoming jelly. Tomato Jelly. — Cut a peck yellow tomatoes in pieces, boil until soft, and strain ; put the juice on, after measuring, with a sliced lemon added and boil half an hour; add sugar pint for pint, let dissolve and come to boiling point, Avhen it should be jelly. Test until prop- erly done, then strain into glasses. Fruit Flavors. — These are very easily prepared, and very con- venient for flavoring and coloring ices and ice-creams, dessert jel- lies, sherbets, drinks for the sick, creams, pudding sauces, etc., when fruit is out of season. Directions for preparing the juices or pulps of the different fruits have already been given in Ices and Ice-creams, and the process of making is the same for all : Mix the given quan- tities prepared fruit juice or pulp and sugar together, stirring until sugar is dissolved and a clear syrup results ; then pour into glass fruit jars of pint or quart size, same as used for canning, cover closely with their lids, stand in wash-boiler and finish as directed in third recipe for Canned Peaches, on page 153, boiling half an hour after boiling point is reached. Put cans away as directed, in Canning Fruit. If properly prepared these flavors will keep two or three years and when used will have all the flavor of the fresh fruit juices. For Orange Flavor to each pint prepared orange juice add juice of one lemon and three cups granulated sugar. Make Straioherry Flavor same way using prepared strawberry juice and juice of only half a lemon. For Raspberry Flavor take a pint prepared rasp- berry juice, juice of half a lemon, or half gill currant juice, three and a half cups sugar. For Cherry., Currant., Grape., Plum and Apple Flavors use a pint prepared juice and three cups sugar. For Peach, Ap7'icot, and Nectarine Flavors allow three cups sugar to each pint prepared pulp. 444 DESSERT JELLIE?. Dessert Jellies. Very handsome jellies for dessert are made with gelatine formed in fancy molds, and when fruit is added exceedingly elegant and or- namental dishes result. But there are a few points connected with the use of gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed uj^on housekeepers and cooks . It should always be soaked in cold Avater till thoroughly saturated or so soft that it will tear with the fingers. In some cases it should be soaked for not less than five or six hours. The liquid containing gelatine should never be boiled, except in cases when it cannot be avoided, such as in clearing a jelly with white of egg, when it is necessary to raise the temperature to boiling point to coagulate the albumen ; but two minutes' boiling is quite sufficient for that purpose. Use as little gelatine as possible; that is, never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. The prejudice common against gelatine which existed in former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its qual- ities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly, hard, tough, and unpalatable, which compared very unfavorably with the deli- cate jellies made from calves' feet, the delicacy of which arose from the simple fact that the gelatine derived from calves' feet is so Aveak that it is almost impossible to make the jel- lies too strong. Persons accustomed to use gelatine will know that its "setting" power is very much affected by the temperature. In hot Aveather a little more gelatine than ordinary should be added. If jelly is not perfectly clear after straining, beat up Avhites of eggs and add, bring to aboil and skim, then strain again. Do not use lemon extract for flavoring jellies made Avith gelatine, as it imparts a milk}' appearance, aftd as in makingthese jellies ornament is the chief aim, it is desirable to have them as clear and transparent as possible. To mold, rinse the mold in cold Avater, and then fill. Jelly is some- times formed in a mold AA'ith a cylindrical tube in the center, and Avhen turned out the spacein center is filled Avith whipped cream. If Avanted still more ornamental dot the Avhippcd cream Avith straAv- berries, or any kind of preserA^ed fruits, such as cherries, grapes, slices of peaches, etc. Any jelly left OA'cr, AA'hetlier fruit or gelatine, may be reheated in a custard kettle and molded again. If of two colors, mold as directed for Ribbon .Tellv, or in anv Avav fancied. Blanc- DESSERT JELLIES. 445 manges may also be remolded in same way, and by placing with the jelly in mold, half and half, makes a pretty dish. To serve any des- sert jelly wrap a cloth wrung out of water around the mold and turn out. Apple Jelly. — Core and cut two dozen apples into quarters , boil with rind of a lemon until tender ; drain off juice, strain it through jelly-bag, and to each pint add a ^ half pint sugar and a half ounce gelatine, previously ^ soaked and simmered gently in half pint Avater ; boil all together slowly fifteen minutes and strain into molds. Turn out, when cold, and serve surrounded with whipped cream or custard. Aspic Jelly. — To three pints clear stock (that made from knuckle of veal is good) add two ounces gelatine that has been soft- ened in cold water. Beat up whites and shells of two eggs and one yolk ; add them to the stock, and put into a saucepan, with a table- spoon catsup, one of vinegar, and a teaspoon each savory, thyme, marjoram and parsley, and a smaller quantity of mace, cloves, all- spice, Avhite pepper and salt, Avith one Avineglass wine. Set over a slow fire, stirring till it boils ; then cook slowly a few minutes, giv- ing it constant attention ; set aside to settle, strain through a coarse cloth or a fine sieve, and turn into mold to harden. It should be perfectly clear, and may be cut into blocks or dice for garnish, or cut into thin slices and alternated with slices of ham or beef; or it may be melted and poured upon chopped chicken in a mold. There are many other Avays in Avhieh it may be useful and ornamental. It is very nourishing, and generally very acceptable to sick persons, especially if given to them in small quantities ice-cold. Another Aspic or Savory Jelly is prepared from four pounds knuckle of A'eal, one beef's foot, three or four slices ham, any poultry trimmings, two carrots, one onion, a bunch of savory herbs, glass of sherr}', three quarts Avater, seasoning to taste of salt and whole white pepper. Put ham in bottom of steAvpan with other ingredients on top and sim- mer all very gently four hours. Then strain and cool, turn into a clean stewpan, leaAdng all sediment behind, add whites of three eggs to clarify, boil until it becomes white, stirring constantly, then strain and use as above. Calfs-Foot Jelly. — Boil four feet cut in three pieces in 4hre quarts water A^ery sloAAdy, until reduced to one quart ; strain and se aAvay until cold ; then take off fat, and put the clear jelly in a stew pan, add a half pound poAvdered sugar, juice of tAvo lemons, and chopped peel of one if flavor is liked, and AA^hites of tAvo eggs ; boil ten minutes, strain and put in glasses or molds to harden. A more 446 DESSERT JELLIES elaborate recipe is the following : Cut the feet across the first joint, and through the hoof, place in a large sauce-pan, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to the boiling point ; when water boils, re- move them, and wash thoroughly in cold water, ^^'hen perfectly clean put into a porcelain-lined or granite iron-ware saucepan, adcl cold water in the proportion of three pints to two calf's feet, put sauce-pan over fire, and when Avater boils, set aside to a cooler place, where it will simmer very slowly five hours ; strain through a fine sieve, or a coarse towel, let stand overnight to set, remove the fat that has risen to the top, and to make quite clean dip a towel in boiling water and wash the surface, which will be quite firm. Now l)lace in saucepan, and melt, add juice two lemons, rinds of three cut into strips, one-fourth pound cut loaf-sugar, ten cloves, and one inch cinnamon stick. Put whites of three eggs, together with the shells (which nmst first be blanched in boiling x^asffijaa water), into a bowl, beat slightly, and pour into sauce- pan, continuing to use the egg-beater until the whole boils, when the pan should be drawn aside where it will simmer gently for ten minutes, skimming off all scum as it rises. While simmering, prepare a piece of flannel by pouring through it a little warm water ; and Avhen tlie jelly has simmered ten minutes, pour it through this bag into a bowl, and repeat the process of straining un- til it is perfectly clear, when add a half gill of sherry (or brandy, or l)ran(ly and sherry mixed in equal proportions), stir well, pour into molds, and place upon ice or in a cool place until jelly sets and be- comes firm enough to turn out and serve. Chocolate Jelhj. — Two pints cream, three ounces sugar, four ounces chocolate, grated ; boil all together, stirring well until fine and frothy, add three-fourths ounce gelatine, stir until thoroughly dissolved, turn into mold and let cool on ice. Cider Jelly. — One package of gelatine, grated rind of one lemon and juice of three ; add one. pint cold water, and let stand one hour ; then add two and one-half pounds loaf sugar, three pints l)oiling water, and one pint cider, put into molds and set in a c<,)ol place. Coifee Jell'/. — Half box Cox's gelatine soaked half an hour in lialfcup cold water (as little as possi- ble), one c^uart strong cof- fee, made as if for table and sweetened to taste; add dissolved gelatine to the hot coftee, stir well, strain into a mold rinsed using, set on with cold water just before ice or in a very cool place, and serve with whipped cream. This jel- ly is very pretty formed in a crown mold. "\Mien turned out fill Jelly will. Whipped Cream. DESSERT JELLIES. 447 the space in center with whipped cream. Orange Jelly is delicious served in same way. Corn-starch Jelly.— Wei five tablespoons corn-starch, one cup sugar, and pinch of salt with cold water, and add one teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract for flavoring ; stir the mixture into one quart boil- ing water and boil five minutes, stirring all the while ; pour into cups previously dipped in cold water. This quantity will fill six or seven cups. If Avished richer, milk may be used instead of water. Good for invalids. Easter Jelhj. — Color calf 's-foot jelly a bright yellow by steep- ing a small quantity of American saffron in the water. Pare lemons in long strips about the width of a straw, boil in water until tender, throw them into a rich s^^rup, and boil until clear. Make a blanc- mange of cream, color one-third pink with poke-berry syrup, one- third green with spinach, and leave the other white. Pour out eggs from a hole a half inch in diameter in the large end. Wash and drain the shells carefully, set them in a basin of salt to fill, pour in tlie blanc-mange slowly through a funnel, and ^.^r—';^^^^ place the dish in a refrigerator for several hours. "^ ' "" ~° When ready to serve, select a round, shallow dish 5 _ about as large as a hen's nest, form jelly in it as a Easter jeny. lining, remove the egg-shells carefully from the blanc-mange and fill the nest with them ; scatter the strips of lemon peel around it like straws, and around the edges place pieces cf the green blanc- mange cut out from a small sheet of it, cooled in a dish as in Italian Jelly. Fruit Jelly. — Soak a box of gelatine one hour in pint cold water ; Avhen well soaked pour on a pint boiling Avater ; then put in a quart of any kind of fruit, strawberries, raspberries or cherries are nice ; add half cup sugar and one spoonful lemon juice ; pour into a mold, and when cold eat with cream and sugar or whipped cream. It is delicious. Lemon Jelly. — Three good-sized lemons, sliced, half a pound white sugar, two ounces isinglass or gelatine, dissolved in two quarts cold water, a stick of cinnamon, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat whites of three or four eggs, and when the gelatine is dissolved stir them well with the other ingredients ; boil five minutes, strain through a flannel jelly-bag into molds and set on ice ; or the eggs, cinnamon and nutmeg may be omitted. Or soak half a box gela- tine one hour in cold water ; add nearly a pint boHing water, one and a half cups su- gar, a little salt, and the grated rind and juice of three lemons ; set on the stove till Jelly in Glasses. it bolls, thcu stralu It into glasses, and when cold serve with Avhipped cream heaped on top. For Lemon 448 DESSERT JELLIES. . Snow Jelly dissolve a box gelatine in nearly a quart boiling water, add the juice of five lemons and enough sugar to sweeten to taste ; strain and set aside until nearly cool. Beat whites of five eggs and whip into the jelly ; turn into a mold and let stand until cool. After it becomes solid, turn out and decorate with pieces of red jelly. Orange Jelly. — Two quarts water, four ounces gelatine, nine oranges and three lemons, a i)ound sugar, whites of three eggs ; soak gelatine in pint of water, boil the threfe pints water and sugar to- gether, skim well, add dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, and beaten whites ; let come to a boil, skim carefully, boil until it jellies, and pour Into mold. The eggs may be omitted, when the jelly must be strained. The grated rind of one orange put in with the juice gives a fine flavor, or some of the sugar may be rubbed on the rinds. A very attractive way of serving is to keep the orange rinds whole by removing juice and pulp with the handle of a tea- spoon from a small opening in one end, drain and wipe them dry. Use the juice for the jelly, made as above without the eggs, and carefully strained ; then color one-half of it pink Avith a few drops cochineal coloring, let stand until nearly cold, and fill the rinds with alternate stripes of the pink and white jellies. When perfectly cold cut in- to quarters and pile tastefully on a dish Oranges Filled wiih jei.y. wltli tufts of grccu Icavcs interspcrscd. Calf s Foot, or any variety of jelly, or different blanc-manges, may be used at choice to fill the rinds ; the colors, however, should contrast as much as possible. For Mock Ornnyes, prepare as above (without eggs) but do not color the jelly with which they are to be filled, and when cold carefully cut in halves. Should be prepared the day be- fore wanted. Serve as real fruit piled in glass dish with green leaves around. Another elegant dish is made by preserving the sections of two oranges whole, taking care not to break the thin inner skin surrounding them. Pour half the jelly in mold and let harden on ice, keeping remainder hot by standing in hot water. Then arrange the prepared sections of orange in a circle on jelly in mold, around the (Mlge, then add just enough jelly to cover the orange sections, let it harden, put in remainder and set away to cool. If all of last half of jelly is poured over the sections they will rise to the top. When making in a hurry, instead of molding sections in jelly keep to gar- nish the dish. Peach Jelly. — Add to the jnice from a can of peaches a cup granulated sugar and boil until clear, skimming carefully ; when no more scum rises, put in the peaches and let boil up once; then care- fully take them out without breaking, and pour the hot syrup over a box gelatine that has soaked an lunir in a cud cold water : add DESSERT JELLIES. 449 juice of a lemon, cup each granulated sugar and boiling water and put all over the fire, stirring constantly until the gelatine is entirely dis- solved ; strain while hot ; put the peaches in a mold, pour the jelly over, and set in a cold place for several hours before wanted. Pie-plant Jelly. — Peel enough pie-plant to fill a quart mold, cut in half-inch lengths, and stew gently to a pulp with an equal weight of sugar ; dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a gill of water over the fire ; add it to the pie-plant when tender, and let it boil up ; then pour in a mold wet with cold water, and let cool. Serve with whipped cream or powdered sugar. Pig''s Foot Jelly. — Take the liquor in which fresh pig's feet have been boiled, strain through a flannel bag and set away to cool until next day ; then remove all grease from the top, return to the fire and add to each quart of jelly one-half pound white sugar, juice of two lemons or two dessertspoons lemon extract, a little cinna- mon bark and the whites of two eggs (the latter to clarify it) ; boil all together ten or fifteen minutes and strain again into glasses, bowls, cups or molds of any shape. Let cool, after which cover closely and set in a cool place ; it will keep a long time, is delicious eaten with cake, either Avith or without cream, according to taste, and is very strengthening and refreshing for invalids. Pvne-aj)%>le Jelly. — Take a small can pine-apple, a cup and a half sugar, package of gelatine, one lemon, Avhite of an egg, and a quart water. Soak the gelatine in half a pint cold water for two hours and a half. Cut pine-apple into small pieces and put it with juice and remainder of water into a saucepan to simmer for ten minutes ; beat white of egg well, and put it into a stewpan with the soaked gelatine, the sugar, and juice of lemon. At the end of ten minutes strain the pine-apple mixture into the stewpan. Heat slowly to boiling point, then set back whore it will keep hot for twenty minutes without boiling. Strain and put away in molds to harden. It vnll take five or six hours for the liquid to become perfectly set. Rihhon Jelly. — Color half the desired quantity of lemon or any light jelly with a few drops of cochineal coloring ; pour in wet mold a little of the light jelly, and when set a layer of equal thickness of the red, and so alternate until mold is full, waiting until each layer has hardened before adding another, and keeping the jelly warm in hot water until all is used. Tapioca Jelly. — One cup tapioca, three cups cold water, juice of one lemon and a pinch of the grated peel ; sweeten to taste ; soak the tapioca in water four hours ; set in a saucepan boil- ing water ; pour more lukewarm water over the tapioca, if it has absorbed too much of the liquid, and heat, stir- ring frequently. If too thick after it begins to clear, put in very little boiling water. When quite clear, put in the sugar 450 DESSERT JELLrES. and lemon. Pour into molds. Eat cold with sweetened cream flavored to taste. For a nice jelly with fruit juice put a quarter of a pound tapioca over a gentl(?fire in sufficient water to reach two inches above it ; use custard kettle in order that it may cook very slowly without danger of burning ; it must be stirred thoroughly aboutevcry five minutes if an ordinary saucepan is used ; if the water cooks away add half a cup cold water at a time, using only sufficient to keep tapioca moist enough to ])revent burning ; when only very small white particles are visible in the center of the grains of tapioca, in- stead of adding more Avater stir in a pint of any fruit juice, or the syrup from canned or preserved fruit, and let it be slowly absorbed by the tapioca. Unless the fruit juice is quite sweet enough, sugar may be added, to make the tapioca palatable ; when it has absorl)ed the fruit, turn it out into a pLain mold or bowl, and let stand until perfectly cold before using. Milk and powdered sugar may be served with it ; or it may be iced and ^erved alone. WJnjjperf Jelly. — This is a very pretty dessert dish and easily j)repared. When any gelatine jelly is set a little, put in bowl and whip with egg-whisk until full of air-bubbles. Fill the mold, and put on ice. The light frothy appearance is very pleasing, and the ad- dition of preserved fruits, well stirred in, about two cups to a quart jelly, forms a handsome dish. Jelly uiith Fruit. — Fresh fruits arc often molded ^'ith gelatine jellies for dessert and present a very handsome appearance, the fruit being arranged around sides of mold, or placed in center, or in any manner fancied. The cut given shows jelly molded with cherries. Have ready a pint and half jelly which must be very clear and very sweet, the raw fruit requir- ing additional sugar. Select nice, per- Jciiy MoMed vim chemes. feet fruit and pick off stalks. Bc'gin by putting a little jelly at bot- tom of mold, placed in pan of ice in lumps ; let stand until hard before putting in fruit, keeping remainder of jelly hot by placing in kettle of hot water. When the jelly is hard arrange the fruit around sides of mold, bearing in mind that it will be reversed when turned out. Then add a little more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and when that has hardened add another row of fruit and jell}' in same way, and so on until mold is full. Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries and currants are put in raw, but peaches, apricots, plums, apples, etc., are better for being first boiled in a little clear syrup. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly ^'^ may be made with preserved fruits. When served garnish with the same fruit as laid .^^f^^ in the jelly , for instance an open jelly with Open Mold. gtrawbcrries may have a little of the' same gtrawbem«. fruit filled in the center as illustrated. This is also a delicious way DESSERT JELLIES. 451 of serving ice-cream, as the open mold can be filled with Straw- berry Ice-cream, or any ice-cream, placed in the cave and then quickly turned out and the center filled with the berries. A stem of fresh grapes apparently suspended in a deep mold of transparent jelly is also a beautiful ornament for the table. To secure this effect, place the grapes stem downward in mold, and to keep in position while pouring in jelly attach two threads as near top of stem as possible, bring around the mold and tie, having bunch exactly in center. Have jelly quite cold but not hardened, pour it in around grapes, filling up to top of mold and set aAvay to cool. Before turning out of mold, clip the threads as closely as possible, and by using a sharp-pointed pair of scissors they may be clipped quite close to the stem. Or if jelly is cold enough the threads may be carefully removed when they are reached in pouring in, then fill to top. Italian Jelly is also very ornamental, and is made by half filling a mold with jelly and when hard arranging round sides of mold a circle of little cakes of blanc-mange, which must have been cooled in a sheet of the desired thickness and cut out for this purpose. Finish as directed above. Jelly Sandwiches. — These are very nice for children's parties, and are an attractive addition to any talkie. The Accommodating Cake recipe, in Avhich neither butter nor milk is used, is excellent for sandwiches : Beat six eggs ve7'y light, add a cup and a half sugar and beat again ; then lightly stir in a cup and a half sifted Hour. A teaspoon baking powder in the flour, and a tablespoon vinegar may be used, but neither are essential. Bake in deep round cans (the ordinary baking powder cans are a nice size for this purpose), well buttered, filling only a little more than half full to allow for rising. When done and cold turn out and cut in slices as thick as liked, spread with jelly, place two together.and neat little round sandwiches are made. The cake is also excellent baked in a loaf, and any loaf cake may be baked in the cans, the round slices being a novelty on any table. Chocolate Cake baked as above and made into sand- wiches is a favorite with the little folks. The following is one of the best recipes : Put a half cup sweet milk, yolk of one egg and two and a half tablespoons grated chocolate over the fire until it comes to boiling point, then take off, let cool, sweeten to taste and beat it into the following cake mixture : One cup granulated sugar, half cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon baking powder, half cup sweet milk, two cups flour. This may also be baked in a loaf or makes a very elegant layer cake spread with white icing flavored with vanilla. Or make after this recipe : One cup each cream and sugar, two eggs, two teaspoons baking powder and flour to make good cake batter. Bake in the cans, slice and spread with jelly ; or, if variety is wanted, bake in gem or patty pans and ice with the Chocolate Caramel Icing given in Icing. 452 DESSERT JELLIES. French Sandwiches are also favorites with children. Make hat- ter after any sponge cake or other recipe preferred and bake in small round cans, so that the slices will be about the size of silver half dollars. Or drop on buttered paper, a teaspoon at a time, stirring a little stiff for this, and when baked trim off edges to size desired as above with tin cutter or any small round tin box lid Spread with jelly, put together and ice the tops. For a nice variety use different jellies and icings ; ice those spread with red currant jellv with choc- olate icing, those with peach jelly with any white icing flavored with almond, and the icing for the raspberry sandwiches should be col- ored }»iiik with a few drops cochineal coloring or cranberry juice, and may also be flavored with almond. The easiest way to ice these sandwiches is to take each half on a skewer or fork and dip it in the icing, of which there must be quite a quantity so as to give the right depth ; stand the other end of skewer in a box of sand, salt or su- gar until icing is dry ; then put together with the jelly as above. For Cream Sandioiches cream a pound each butter and sugar ; froth whites of twelve eggs, stir in the yolks and beat all smoothly to- gether. Mix three-fourths pound corn-starch with fourth pound flour, sift twice and add to above with teaspoon vanilla ; beat till light and fine, bake in can as above, slice and put together Avith whipped cream. Boiled Icing or French Icing. Or bake in patty pans and ice tops. Nice with ice-cream. Victoria Sandwiches are also nice : Take four eggs, and half pound each sugar, butter and flour with a quarter saltspoon salt ; beat the butter to a cream, dredge in flour and sugar, stir well to- gether, and add the eggs, Avell beaten. Beat all together about ten minutes, butter a long shallow tin, pour in batter, and bake in mod- erate oven twenty minutes. Let cool, spread one half cake with a layer of any nice jelly or jam, place over it the other half, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut in long finger-pieces and pile in cross bars on a glass dish. MEATS. 453 MEATS. Every practical housekeeper should spare no pains to perfect herself in this, one of the most important (by many considered the most important,) departments of cooking. Complete directions for buying and curing meats will be found under the heads of Market- ing and Curing Meats, so that here only instructions for cooking are given. If cooked when first killed, meat will be found tender ; if kept a little time the muscles stiffen and it will be tough, but if left a longer time the muscles relax and the meat becomes more tender than at first. Young meat of all kinds should be cooked very thoroughly to be wholesome. Beef is always "hung," as it is termed, at least a week in all first-class markets before cut up, in the re- frigerator in summer, and is kept sometimes two Aveeks in cold winter Aveather. The leg and haunch of mutton is also preferred by many after it has been hung three days or longer, but all other meats, save game, should be cooked as soon after being killed as possible. If necessary to keep meat several days in summer, wash over with vinegar, cover lightly with bran and hang in a high room or passage where there is a constant current of air. While hanging, change the position of the meat occasionally to distribute the juices evenly. Should there be any signs of a change before it is possible to use it, rubbing the meat over lightly with salt will preserve it a day or two longer. Meat is more likely to spoil in rainy weather than dry and should be cared for accordingly. Beef suet may be kept a long time in a cool place without freezing, or by burying it deep in the flour barrel so as to entirely exclude the air. To restore tainted meat, wash in water in which a little borax has been dissolved, cutting away all discolored portions. 454 MEATS, The best manner of cooking tough meat is to boil it very slowly until tender, letting the water all boil away, then brown in kettle or oven. Tough steaks, etc., are improved by laying two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons each vinegar and salad oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes. The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extract- ing their juices. Some simply soak in vinegar and water, allowing three-fourths pint vinegar to three quarts water for a ten-pound piece, and let lie in this six hours, or longer if a larger piece. To thaw frozen meat, place in a warm room overnight, or lay it for a few hours in cold water — the latter plan being best. The ice which forms on the surface as it thaws is easily removed. If cooked be- fore it is entirely thawed, it will be tough. Meat once frozen should not be allowed to thaw until just before cooking. When ordering a rolled roast have the butcher send home the bones to be used in making soup, stock, gravies, etc. Chop or break them in small pieces and boil with onion, celery, turnip, carrot and parsley or any one or two of these. American housekeepers have yet much to learn from the French cook who throws nothing away. Instead of going to the butcher for meat out of which to make stock he utilizes bones as above, or employs the trimmings of joints for this purpose, and converts the skimmings from the soup pot or drippings from roast or boiled meats into uses for which butter and lard are pressed into service by most cooks. For directions as to the care and preparation of drippings etc., see recipe for Clarified Drippings. Most people also have the idea that a finely flavored dish must cost a great deal ; this is a mistake, for if one has untainted meat, or sound vegetables, or even Indian meal, to begin with, it can be made delicious with proper seasoning. One reason why French cooking is much nicer than any other is that it is seasoned with a great variety of herbs and spices ; these cost very little, and if a few cents' worth were bought at a time one would soon have a good as- sortment. The mixed spices and herbs, now to be had in all large cities, are very nice for seasoning meats, gravies, etc., and save the trouble of preparing. Recipes for their preparation are given, how- ever, for those who prefer to mix them at home. If all the season- ings — spices, herbs, etc., — mentioned in recipes are not to be had, make the best use of those at hand by combining them judiciously. MEATS. 455 But no matter how nicely cooked and seasoned, meat is often utterly spoiled in serving. It should always be neatly dished on hot plat- ter and sent tojable with very hot plates, heated in warming oven or in a pan over hot water. Especial attention to this point is neces- sary when serving mutton, as nothing is more unpleasant than a showing of cold mutton fat on a still colder plate. For very full directions for garnishing meats see Garnishes, though suggestions will be found with nearly every recipe. If one has not the articles recommended, others may be substituted, according to the fancy of •the cook and the meat may of course be served without any garnish, yet its attractiveness adds much to the enjoyment of any dish. Glazing adds greatly to the appearance of meat and full direc- tions will be found under Glaze, in Gravies. Braising is a favorite method of cooking meats in France and Germany and several rec- ipes are given. Complete general directions for the more common methods employed follow under appropriate heads. Very complete instructions for Carving Meats will also be found under that head later on, a careful study of which, with the many illustrations given, will enable anyone to become an accomplished carver. Boiled Meats. — Boiling is the most economical way of cooking meats,when properly done,as there is comparatively little waste in boil- ing from the fact that fat melts less quickly than in broiling or roast- ing, and the covering of the pot retards evaporation, while the water absorbed by the meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without detracting from its quality ; the liquor in which it is boiled, or "stock," makes excellent soups and gravies and should always be put by for this purpose. Every economical housekeeper will provide herself with a stock-pot, which should be kept in a cool place and all remains of soups, gravies, etc., emptied therein, save that from mutton or fish, which must be kept separate. Inattention to the temperature of the water and too early application of salt causes great waste in boiling meats. To make fresh meat rich and nutritious it should be placed in a kettle oi hoilivff water (pure soft water is best), skimmed well as soon as it begins to boil again, and placed where it will boil slowly but constantly. There should be enough water to entirely cover the meat and to last until thoroughly cooked. The kettle should be large enough so that the meat will not touch the sides, and some place a plate in the bottom to prevent scorching. Care must be taken to remove all scum at the first boiling, and' as* fast as it rises, or it will quickly sink and spoil the appearance of the meat. The meat should be occasionally turned and kept well 456 >rEAT3. under the water, and fresh boiling water supplied if it evaporates too much in boiling, Plunging in hot water hardens the fibrine on the outside, encasing and retaining the rich juices — and the whole theory of correct cooking, in a nut-shell, is to retain as much as possible of the nutriment of food. No salt should be added until about half an hour before the meat is done, as it extracts the juices of the meat if added too soon ; do not fail to remove the scum that rises after salt- ing. Boil gently, as rapid boiling hardens the fibrine and renders the meat hard, tasteless, and scarcely more nutritious than leather, without really hastening the process of cooking, every degree of heat beyond the boiling point being worse than wasted. Inhere is a pithy saying : " The pot should only smile, not laugh." The bubbles should appear in one part of the surface of the water only, not all over it. This differs from "simmering," as in the latter there is merely a sizzling on the side of the pan. But the water must always be kept at boiling heat, or simmering, else it will soak into the meat and render it flat and insipid. Salt meat should pe put on in cold Walter so that it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, the time to be modiiied, of course, by the quality of meat. A pod of red pepper in the water will prevent the unpleasant odor of boiling meat from fill- ing the house. Never pierce meat with a fork when taking up or turning, as this allows the rich juices to escape ; tie a stout cord around the meat when put into kettle with which to lift it out. If meat seems tough, put a tablespoon or two of vinegar in the water before putting in meat. Dried and smoked meats should be soaked for some hours before putting into water. White meats, like mutton and poultry, are improved in appearance by boiling rice with them ; or boiling closely tied in a coarse well-floured cotton cloth is better, and cooked in this way the meat will be very juicy. The cloth must be Avrung out of scalding water and dredged inside thickly with flour. When the meat is wanted to slice cold it will be much im- proved if left to cool in the water in which it is cooked. When to be served hot take up as soon as done. To boil meat A^l Court BouiJlo7i make a Marinade by cooking in a saucepan one large onion and two slices each carrot and turnip ten minutes in two tablespoons butter ; then add four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three stalks celery, half teaspoon each pepper and mustard, stick cinnamon and one quart cider, or pint each vine- gar and water. Put meat in kettle, add marinade ana water to cover and cook till tender, adding two tablespoons salt quarter of an hour before it is done. This is also nice for stewed beef or fish. Any flavor- ing not liked can be omitted in any marinade. The meat boiled for soup may be made into Jellied Meat by taking from the bones, i3h»y)ping, and seasoning well Avith catsups and spices, moistening with a bowl of the liquor in which it was boiled (taken out for this before vegetables are put in) and put into molds; when cold turn MEATS. 457 out and slice. If the liquor is not thick enough to jelly, boil down or add a little gelatine. Broiled Meats. — Broiling is the most wholesome method of cooking meats, and is most acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but some of the juices are lost b,v the operation ; cutting it across in small squares with a sharjD knife on both sides, being careful not to cut quite through, is better than either. Tough meats are also im- proved by laying for two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons each of vinegar and salad oil (or butter), a little pepper, but no salt; turn every twenty minutes ; the action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim off all superfluous fat, but never Avash a freshly-cut steak. Never salt or pepper steaks or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, dip in melted butter. Place the steak on a hot, well-greased grid- iron and leave only long enough to sear one &ide so that the juices cannot escape, then turn and sear the other, and cook from five to twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done, turning often, almost continually, to keep in the juices and prevent scorching ; the time required for cooking depends also upon thickness of steak and kind of broiler used. Dish on a hot platter, season with salt and pepper and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter and serve at once. A small pair of tongs are best to turn steaks, as piercing with a fork frees the juices. If fat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be extinguished by sprinkling with salt, always withdrawing the gridiron to prevent the steak from acquiring a smoky flavor. Always have a brisk fire, whether cooking in a patent broiler directly over the fire, or on a gridiron over a bed of live coals. As the success of the broil depends upon the state of the fire, be sure that it is very hot, perfectly free from smoke and will last during the broiling, whether one or more steaks are to be cooked. If the fire is not very clear put a cover over the meat when using a gridiron, which will prevent its blackening or burning, and this is an especially good plan when the meat is thick, or when broiling birds or chickens, which are apt to be rare at the joints un- less this is done. A charcoal fire is of course best for broiling. Broiling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast or dinner ; every other dish should be ready for table, so that this may have the cook's undivided attention. A steel gridiron with slender bars is better than the ordinary iron one, as the broad, flat iron bars fry and scorch the meat, impartmg a disagreeable flavor. A light wire broiler that can be kept in the hand and turned quickly 458 MEATS. is the best, if one has not a patent broiler. In using the patent broilers, such as the American and the later and better Dover, care must be used to keep all doors and lids of stove or range closed dur- ing the process. The dampers which shut off the draft to chimney should be thrown open before beginning, to take the flames in that direction. Never take lid from broiler without first removing it from fire, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke it. Fried Meats. — Frying, proper, is immersing in enough hot fat to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, the food is quickly crisped at the surface and does not absorb the fat. The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has not yet been named in English, but is called Sauteing in French and is popularly known as frying in this country ; it is not nearly so nice nor healthful a method as Fri/ing hy Immersion^ though very generally practiced everywhere. The secret of success in immersing is what the French call the "surprise." The fire must be hot enough to sear the surface and make it impervious to fat, and at the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon as meat is browned by this sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on stove, that the process may be finished more slowly. This method of frying renders the meat more tender, and is a nice way of cook- ing tough steaks. For instructions as to preparing and heating fat, see Fritters. When improperly done, frying results in an unwhole- some and greasy mess, unfit for food, but with care, jilenty of fat (which may be used again and again), and the right degree of heat, nothing is easier than to produce a crisp, delicious and healthful dish. Steaks and chops, or cutlets, are very nice either single- breaded or dipped in batter, as Fritters, and fried. For complete di- rections for breading see Croquettes. Finely sifted bread-crumbs, cracker dust, granula, cerealine, Graham and corn meal are all used for breading meats. Be sure that the fat for frying is clean and fresh and free from salt, or the article fried will have a bad odor. Half lard and half beef drippings make a good frying mixture for either sauteing or immersing, though lard is largely used alone, and for those who cannot eat articles fried in lard, drippings or Ameri- can cooking oil sliould be used. The latter is much superior to any- thing else for frying purposes, and the drippings from veal, lamb, beef and pork are better than lard, if carefully clarified according to directions hereafter given ; but the mutton fat should be clarified and put away by itself and used only for frying mutton chops, etc., as many persons dislike the flavor. Fried meat should be sent to table the moment it is done, as the smallest delay tends to make the meat lose its crispness and become flabby. Larding Meats. — This is a very nice way of preparing meat, game or poultry for roasting. Either fat bacon or fat salt pork may MEATS. 459 be used, and is better for this purpose if cured without saltpeter, which reddens white meats. For larding small birds cut the bacon or pork into strips of same size one and a half inches long and a six- teenth of an inch thick; for chickens from an eighth to quarter of an inch thick, and for venison, beef and other meats two inches long and half an inch thick. These strips are called lardoons and are inserted in the surface of the meat with a larding needle as follows : With the point of larding needle make three distinct lines across half an inch apart; run needle into third line, at further side, and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lar- doons in it ; draw the needle through, leaving one-fourth inch of bacon exposed at each end ; proceed thus to end of row ; then make another line half an inch distant, stick in another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving the ends of the bacon all same length; make the next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lar- doons of the first row ortwo,proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded in chequered rows as shown in cut. After inserting the needle work it around a little to enlarge the opening, and the lard . ons will slip through easier. In warm weather it is well to place the lardoons in a bowl of ice to harden before using. Care must be taken not to have the strips too large for the needle or they will be pressed out as soon as the loose part of the needle touches the meat. Before Larding Birds^ hold breast over clear fire for a min- ute, or dip it in boiling water, then proceed as above, using a smaller needle than for meats. Larding needles are not expensive costing only from ten to thirty cents, but if one is not at hand the larding can be very neatly done by making incisions with a pen-knife and pushing the lardoons through with the fingers, pinching the meat up with one hand wdiile cutting and putting the lardoons in with the other. \Vhen preparing a roast in haste, strips of fat salt pork or bacon are often tied over meat or breasts of birds, instead of larding, and this is called "barding." The fat from the fowl itself may be used for this purpose instead of bacon. All white-fleshed birds are improved by larding, as well as veal and sweetbreads. Molded Meat. — Chop fine a pound lean meat of any kind, and add to it a chopped onion, tablespoon fine bread-crumbs, teaspoon salt, saltspoon white pepper, cup gravy (made by boiling the bones or pieces left after cutting off the lean, then straining and season- ing). Stir all together and let stand half an hour. Butter a deep bowl, pudding dish or mold, press in the mixture and cover with a plate. Place in a pan of water and cool in moderate oven one hour. Turn out carefully and serve hot with any of the following sauces : For Molded M^ttton, gr ox j \i\ih. a dessertspoon of currant jelly; for Beef, gravy flavored with mushrooms or horse-radish sauce ; for 460 MEATS. Veal or Foivl, tomato sauce ; for Pork, apple auce, fresh onions or onion sauce. It can also be sliced cold. Potted Meats. — If wanted to be kept for some time, the meat must be good and well dressed, but if to be used within a day or two any odds or ends will do ; when cooked, all bone, skin and sinew must be removed, and the meat pounded in a mortar with clarified butter, cayenne, and spices to taste, until a smooth paste. Press the mixture into pots or jars of small size, until about twu-thirds full. Pour a layer of clarified melted butter, or good drippings (beei is pref- erable to any other), or mutton suet, upon the top of the paste to the depth of an eighth of an inch, for the purpose of excluding the air. Always wait till the meat is cold before potting and press very firmly into the jars, not allowing a drop of gravy to get in, for it will turn the potted or preserved meat sour. Tie oilskin or oiled paper over the jars. The air must be excluded. Although these pastes are fit to eat almost immediately they will keep perfectly good for a year,and often a longer period. The most popular meats for potting are Veal, Ham, Beef, Tongue, Game and Poultry. Fish is done in the same way — such as Anchovies, Prawns and Shrimps. Potted foods of this description are intended as relishes for the breakfast, lunch- eon and supper-table chiefly, served in slices or spread on toast or bread. Any cold remains of meat maybe potted, and in every well- regulated English house potting is an'every-day aff'air for the cook. If ham, game, tongue, beef, or fish is served one day, it comes on potted next day at lunch or breakfast. This is a very good way of managing left-over food, instead of invariably making into hashes, stews, etc. Clarified Butter for potting, or any of the other pur- poses for which it is used, is prepared by placing the butter in a bowl and set in a saucepan of cold water, (or use a custard kettle), which should be heated slowly until butter melts and the scum forms ; remove from fire, skim, and return to warm again gently, then let stand a moment or two to settle, strain and put over the potted meat, or bottle for future use. When taken off the pots as opened for table the butter may be used for common pie paste, bast- ing meats and for fish sauce. Boasted Heats. — Roasting proper is almost unknown in these days of stoves and ranges — baking, a much inferior process, having taken its place. In roasting, the joint is placed close to a brisk, open fire, on a spit or in a tin kitchen, turned so as to expose every part to the fire, and then moved back to finish in a more moderate heat. The roast should be basted frequently with the drippings, and, when half cooked, with salt and water. To roast in oven, the preparations are very simple. The fire must be bright and the oven hot. Trim off any torn or bruised portions from the roast, which will need no washing if it comes from a cleanly butcher; wiping with a towel dampened in cold water is all that is needed; if washing is necessary, MEATS. 461 dash over quickly with cold water and wipe dry. Washing and soaking fresh meat draws out its juices and impairs its nutriment. A large piece is best for roasting, this being especially true of beef. If meat has been kept a little too long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, and dust with a very little flour to absorb the moisture. Place in pan, on a trivet, or two or three clean bits of hard wood or bones laid cross-wise of pan, to keepit out of the fat. If meat is very lean, add a tablespoon or two of water ; if fat, the juices of the meat will be sufficient, and the addition of the water renders it juiceless and tasteless. The oven should be very hot when the meat is put in that the surface may be quickly seared or browned over and the juices confined. Keep the fire hot and bright, baste every ten or fifteen minutes, and when about half done season well with salt and turn the roast, also seasoning the turned side, always keeping the thick part of the meat in the hottest part of the oven. Take care that every part of the roast, including the fat of the tenderloin, is cooked so that the texture is changed. If the fire has been properly made, and the roast is not large, it should not require replenishing, but, if necessary, add a little fuel at a time, so as not to clieck the fire, in- stead of waiting until a great deal must be added to keep up the bright heat. ^lost persons like roast beef and mutton underdone, and less time is required to cook them than for pork and veal or lamb, which must be very well done. Fifteen minutes to the pound and fifteen minutes longer is the rule for beef a^id mutton, and twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for pork, veal and lamb. The directions for beef apply equally well to pork, veal, mut- ton and lamb. Underdone meat is cooked throughout so that the bright red juices follow the knife of the carver ; if it is a livid purple it is raw, and unfit for food. When done, the roast should be a rich brown, and the bottom of the pan covered with a thick glaze Re- move the joint, and those who do not salt before or while roasting now sift evenly over with fine salt, and it is ready to serve. Never salt before cooking, as it draws out the juices. To keep the roast hot while making the gravy place it in a pan or on an old platter in the oven. To prepare gravy, pour off the fat gently, holding pan steadily, so as not to lose the gravy which underlies it ; put pan on stove, and pour into it a half cup boiling water, varying thequantity with the size of the roast ; soup or thin stock of any kind is better than water if at hand ; add a little salt, stir with a spoon until the particles adhering to sidesof pan are removed and dissolved, making a rich broAvn gravy ; if necessary add a thickening of a little flour, mixed smooth with water, though if a nice, juicy roast, the gravy is much better without. Some first stir the flour into the drippings, then pour in boiling water. In roasting all meats, success depends upon basting frequently by dipping the gravy from the pan over the meat with a large spoon, turning often so as to prevent burning, and carefully regulating heat 462 MEATS. of oven. Roasts prepared with dressing require more time than those without. In roasting meats if necessary to add water do not put it in until the meat has been in the oven about half an hour, or until it begins to brown, and then only a very little, a half cup or so, of hot water. The appearance of a roast is very much improved by dredging with flour after each basting, commencing about half an hour before the meat is done. Do this with the Hour after dredging evenly all over, first seasoning with salt. When the flour has be- come thoroughly browned, which will be in about ten minutes, baste and dredge again ; continue thus until done, then season with pejD- per and the meat will be sent to table covered with a handsome brown crust. Do not baste after the last dredging, and never baste after dredging until tlie flour has become thoroughly browned. If wanted nicely frothed, baste with butter the last time, then dredge with flour. ^ Although we consider the above much the better method of roasting meat, some prefer to omit the dredging entirely, and others begin to dredge with the first basting. Some good cooks first cover the bottom of pan rather lightly with flour, then put meat on trivet in pan and place in oven until the flour is browned ; suflficient Avater is then added to cover bottom of pan, the oven is closed for about ten minutes, when the meat is basted with the liquid in pan and dredged Avith salt, pepper and flour ; this is repeated every fifteen minutes until roast is done. The claim is made that though the steam from the water and the salting of the meat both have a ten- dency to draw out the juices, by beginning thus early to dredge with flour a paste is formed over the meat which keeps in the juices and also enriches the roast. Whichever method is followed, be sure that the oven is hot when the meat is put in and the heat kept steady throughout. The meat-rack or trivet is a necessity no housekeeper should attempt to do without, and its cost is small. It keeps the meat from the bottom of pan and prevents scorching, or the soaking out of the juices when water is used. An excellent marinade for basting roast meats is made by chopping some fat bacon with a clove of garlic and sprig of parsley, adding salt, pepper, tablespoon vinegar, and four of oil ; beat up well, and baste the_ meat with it while roasting. The variation in roasted meats consists simply in the method of preparing before putting in the oven. Some are to be larded, some stuffcKl with bread dressing, and others plain, as above, only seasoning with pepper and salt. To prepare a Pot-roast, which is a favorite method of cooking meats with many, place the meat, neatly trimmed if a thick piece, or rolled and skewered if thin, in a hot slewpan or round-bottomed kettle, in which there is a little fat or butter if needed and turn to quickly brown or sear over on all sides to confine the juices. Then turn in a little hot water, cover closely (a seasoning of herbs or spice may be added as liked), and simmer gently until done. The time required depends upon size MEATS. 463 and quality of roast, a four-pound piece from shoulder of beef re quiring about three hours. Care should be taken that the meat does not scorch or burn to bottom of kettle, though onW just sufficient water to prevent this should be kept in kettle, adding a little as it cooks away. Turn the meat occasionally to broAvn and cook all sides alike, and toward the last it should fry gently in its drippings. Observe the same rule for seasoning with salt and pepper as given for other roasts. The cheaper cuts of meat are usually cooked in this way, though some think almost any piece juicier and richer v/hen f)roperly done. Pot-roasts are sometimes larded, when meat is very ean. A rich gravy may be made from drippings in kettle. Steamed 3f eats. — This is by far the nicest and most economical way of cooking meats ; place in steamer over hot water and cook till tender ; put in pan, with any herbs or spices, if wished, season with salt and brown in oven by basting and dredging Avith flour as in Roasted Meats. In a hot oven it will brown nicely in twenty or thirty minutes. Stewed Meats. — The inferior parts of meat are generally used for stews, Avhich if properly prepared are very palatable. If made from fresh meat, it should be immersed in boiling water at first, and then placed where it will simmer slowly until done, as in Boiled Meats, skimming well ; when done, season, add thickening, and flavor to taste. Sliced potatoes and any vegetables liked are cooked in stews, and some first fry both meat and vegetables a few minutes, or until brown, before pouring over the water in which they are to be cooked, and Avhich should be only just enough to cook the meat and leave sufficient for gravy. A simple stew of meat, well seasoned, with dumplings dropped in just before done, is relished by nearly every one, and dumplings are often added when vegetables are used. Thin pieces of meat may be spread with a dressing, rolled and tied, ti}^jj^st[eA^}e4AYfi{th.,5}?iy!{jdGUtiopspf flavoring, vegetables etc., preferred. l^^ii^mings from: roasts aug oilier iilejfts,;: cut -into pieces of same .sji:"^j,.n;iay bC; ^uade into stjBws'^ ^,l;i4v':^«iny .^cpJjdi'^^Wt't Uliiy.be thus ^tiji^etl.,^^^^^ I^I^pijil,dr,QQoteiye^ri§lftWJr ftte^h^ffeiolliag pmufc-'iis 9oiiiitr,Or Tunib, as '/i simple cut Ay'ould be l^o i%m ;;the flahk,.,^ attll ^^''ij^ket, though all good boiling pieces, are 'ti00 thin, tft iV,^4i^9 t?fr;tnta^G; without rolling, but are very easHy rojled ap(ikej|:)j;'.,m j6|l'a(ie with- twinj? or ske\ver§. Wipe the iueat with.ii d^aiiip clo^iO^^d iWt on to !x»il as directed, in Boiled Meats. Allow twenty, ;n4iiAufe? b'ea:cli pouiKl'ior boiling, and when just! done, add Heafouing, otsplt ^fiflWrvo with an^ Kalad preferred, or JIo)'se-radlsK'SauceyW' taste. Simmer, not boil, ten minutes and serve in hot covered dish. Beef w la Mode. — A good cut from the round of beef, or the rump, is generally used for this dish, though a piece from the thick flank is sometimes chosen, and there is a shoulder cut which answers very well. If the round is used, take out the bone, and with a small sharp knife cut deep incisions nearly through the meat ; into these put strips of tongue, suet, pork or bacon, previously rolled in pep- per, salt, cloves and nutmeg, or a mixture of sweet herbs and spices, and some dip them first in vinegar, then roll in the spices. Rub the remainder of the herbs, spices, etc., over the beef and tie in shape. Put slices of pork in the bottom of an iron stewpan with sliced on- ions, slices of lemon, one or two carrots and a bay leaf; lay the beef in and put over it a piece of bread-crust as large as the hand, a half- pint German cooking wine and a little vinegar, and afterwards an equal quantity of water or broth till the meat is half covered ; cover the dish closely and cook very slowly till tender, turning it once or twice; do not boil too fast or it will be tough and tasteless when done. Take out the meat, rub thegravy thoroughly through a sieve, skim oflF the fat, add some sour cream, return to the stewpan and cook ten minutes. Instead of the cream, capers or sliced cucumber pickles can be added to the grav}' if preferred, or a handful of grated ginger-bread or rye l)read. The meat can also be laid overnight or for some da3''s in a vinegar pickle spiced with a teaspoon each ground cloves, mace and pe])per, two teaspoons salt and four of sugar. Or a nice pickle is made with the following ingredients : One carrot, one while turnip, and one onion sliced, a leek, a few sprigs of pars- ley, and a stalk of celery if in season, half a dozen cloves, an inch stick cinnamon, two blades mace, one lemon sliced, one teaspoon salt, and a saltspoon white pepper; put the meat in a deep dish with this mixture, cover with vinegar and water mixed in equal quanti- ties, and let stand two or three daj^s, turning twice each day. It will then be in good condition to cook. Tough meat may be made very tender by treating it in this way ; the vinegar softens the fibres of the meat while the vegetables flavor it pleasantly. This pickle may be put away in cold weather and used again. Another way of preparing this excellent dish is to fill the open- ing made by removing the bone Avith a bread stuffing, tie in shape, rub the meat well with chopped sAveet herbs, stick in some cloves and boil until tender, allowing fifteen minutes to each pound; then season with pepper and salt, thicken the gravy with Hour, add cup butter and chopped onions and cover pan again until meat is brown ; add a scraped carrot boiled with a little chopped parsley and some tomato catsup. If the gravy is too thin add a little more flour and MEATS. 473 serve poured over the meat. Or make a force-meat by mixing to- gether in frying-pan over fire two tablespoons butter, one of chopped onion, one level teaspoon each ground thyme, marjoram and savory, teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper, and a pint broken stale bread moistened with cold water ; when force-meat is hot fill the place of bone with it, or if the meat had no bone, make a large cut and fill with the force-meat ; lay small pieces of clean cloth over the force-meat on both sides, put the meat into compact shape, and tie firmly, arranging the string to keep the (^loth in place over the force- meat. Turn a small plate bottom up in a deep pot or sauce})an,lay the meat on it, and half cover with cold water ; add an onion peeled and stuck with cloves, and a level tablespoon each salt and any good table-sauce or vinegar, or a glass of cooking-wine ; set overthe fire, and simmer slowly four hours ; then put the meat in a dripping-pan remove the string, add the gravj^ dust thickly with flour, and brown quickly in very hot oven. Serve on platter witli a little gravy poured over and the rest in a bowl ; serve with a dish of hot boiled or baked potatoes. The meat is sometimes first browned by putting over the fire with slices of pork and turning to brown all sides, s]3rinklingin 'a tablespoon flour and turning to brown in that also. The pot or skillet in which the meat is cooked should be kept closely covered. Sliced onions, carrots, turnips and parsnips are often cooked with it, first cut into dice and fried, then meat put in, well dredged with flour, and browned before adding water and spices in which it is cooked. The meat is sometimes simply scored and the incisions filled with a bread stuffing, and some pre- fer steaming or baking to boiling. Or the meat may be half roasted after lying in either pickle given, then larded with mushrooms, and returned to oven to finish, basting often. For a more economical dish cut three pounds from shoulder into small pieces and roll in flour; put two tablespoons drippings into stewpan wdth one thinly sliced onion; when hot put in the beef and stir well ; as soon as browned add by degrees two quarts boiling water, (stirring all the time), a dozen allspice, two bay leaves, half teaspoon pepper-corns and salt ; cover closely and stew very gently till meat is tender, about three hours ; remove spice before serving. Fillet of Beef.— A. fillet, to be plainly yet skillfully roasted, to be carved in the kitchen and not sent to table whole, need not have all the fat removed, only cut down thin. It must be cut off" the top side, however, which means the side that had the kidney fat upon it, and a ribbon-like strip of the skin covering taken off the meat the whole length down, as otherwise it will draw up in oven. Make pan hot first and put into it all pieces of meat and a little of the fat that has been trimmed off the fillet, and let stew and bake in pan with pint water and a little salt to make a glaze or gravy on the bottom for the fillet to be rolled in at the last. An hour after, or when the water is nearly all gone out of the pan, make the oven hotter and 474 MEATS. put the fillet in and roast quickly. It may be done cnoiigli uith the thickest part medium rare in a hot oven in half an hour or three- quarters, and is sure to be done through in an hour. Never stick a fork in it, but roll it over in the pan by means of a broad fork and ppoon several times, Avhich v,-i\\ make it shine with the light brown glaze, and cut full of juice when done. Make a Brown Gravy (see Gravies) in the pan and serve on the slices ofmeat\vilh a mush- room sauce around. Some think the flavor of the fillet improved if soaked twelve hours in vinegar to cover with a sliced onion, bunch of parsley and seasoning of pepper and salt. A Larded Fillet of BeefiQ a dish served at almost everj' dinner party, and an excellent and most satisfactory one if properly prepared, but it is nothing if not neat, uniform, precise and "workman- like in appearance. Procure the fillet or tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, that is with the coating of suet that covers the up- ^^ per side, and shave that down until the Larded rmet of Beet covering of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all over. Then raise the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the fillet, and lay the sheet , of fat over on the other side without cutting otf. This is to have it attached ready to cover the fillet again after larding. Draw point of a sharp knife across and across the skin inside the fat, to score it so that it Avill not draw up in cooking ; trim off the thin end of the fil- let and round off the thick end. Commence at the thick end with the_ larding and lard as directed in Larding Meats, using lardoons an inch and a half long and about as thick as a common pencil ; then cover with the sheet of fat. Heat a long and narrow baking pan with a tablespoon salt and cup of drippings in it; chop into small pieces a few beef or veal bones, and cover the bottom of pan with them ; add three slices bacon, two carrots, two onions, and one turnip, sliced, with a pint stock. Season with salt, bruised whole peppers, a bay leaf, a few cloves, and a blade of mace. Place the fillet in the pan with the larded side up and moisten with four table- spoons vinegar. Have the oven hot, put in fillet and roast it with the fat covering it half an hour; then take off fat, baste the fillet with the contents of pan, and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by which time the surface should be brown, and strips of larding brown too, Avithout being burnt at the ends. Unless especiallv ordered other- wise, the thick part of fillet should cut slightly rare in middle, while the thinner portion is Avell done. Serve with Brown Gravy, or mush- room, Plollandaise or tomato sauce, and garnish with potato balls, mushrooms, stuffed tomatoes, sliced vegetables in fancy shapes, or onions ]>oiled and glazed. If served with sauce, this should be poured around the fillet. The time given cooks a fillet of anv size, the shape being such that it will take half an hour for either two or six pounds. Save the fat trimmed from the fillet for frying, and the lean part for soup stock. A small fillet, weighing from two and a half to three MEATS. 475 pounds (the average weight from a very large rump), will suffice for ten persons at a dinner where served as one course ; and if a larger quantity is wanted a great saving will be made if two small fillets are used. They cost about two dollars each, while a large one, weighing the same, would cost five dollars. Fillet of^ Beef in Jelly is another elegant dish. For this procure a small fillet, trim and cut a deep incision in the side, being careful not to go through to the other side or the ends. Fill this with one cup veal, prepared as for force-meat, and whites of three hard-boiled eggs, cut into rings. Sew up the openings, and bind the fillet into good shape with broad bands of cotton cloth. Put in a deep stewpan two slices each ham and pork, and place the fillet on them ; then put in two calf's feet, two stalks celery and two quarts clear stock ; simmer gently two hours and a half; take up the fillet and set away to cool ; strain the stock, and set aw^ay to harden ; when hard, scrape off every particle of fat, and put on the fire in a clean saucepan, with half a slice of onion and whites of two eggs, beaten with four tablespoons cold water. When this boils season well with salt and setback where it will just simmer for half an hour, then strain through a napkin. Pour a lit- tle of the jelly into a two-quart charlotte-rupse mold (half an inch deep), and set on ice to harden ; as soon as hard, decorate with egg rings ; add about three spoonfuls of the liquid jelly, to set the eggs ; when hard, add enough jelly to cover the eggs, and when this is also hard, trim the ends of the fillet, and draw out the thread ; place in center of mold, and cover with remainder of jelly. If the fillet floats, place a slight weight on it and set in ice chest to harden. When ready to serve, place the mold in a pan of warm water for half a minute, and then turn out the fillet gently upon a dish. Put here and there a sprig of parsley and garnish with a circle of egg rings, each of which has a stoned olive in the center. The olives may be opened very carefully, the stones removed, and the cavities thus made filled in with pounded anchov}'. These Stuifed Olives are al- so served as ''appetizers," and are eaten with a little oil, either at the beginning of the meal or with the cheese. Olives are served occas- sionally, when quite sweet, and as imported, with a little of the liquor in which they are preserved, at dessert, and are also often sent to table without removing the stones. Fricandeau of Beef. — Procure about three pounds of the in- side fillet of the sirloin, or a nice piece of the rump may be used; lard the beef as directed in Larding Meats, first sprinkling the lar- doons with a seasoning of pepper and salt mixed with three cloves, two blades of mace, and six allspice, well pounded. Putin stewpan with one pint stock or water, bunch sweet herbs, two shallots, two cloves, and more pepper and salt. Stew meat gently until tender, when take out, cover closely, skim off all fat from gravy and strain it ; set it on the fire and boil till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side of beef with this, and serve on Sorrel Satice, which is made as 476 MEATS. follows : "Wash and pick some sorrel, and put in a stewpan with only the water that hangs about it; keep stirring to prevent its burning, and when done, lav in a sieve to drain ; chop and stew with a small piece of butter and four or five tablespoons good gravy for an hour, and rub through a sieve. If too acid, add a little sugar, and brussels sprouts boiled with the sorrel will be found an improvement. Pot- Roast of Beef. — Put a rather thick piece of beef in a wide, flat-bottomed kettle Avith some fat or slices of pork, or suet, and a sliced onion or two, if liked, and fry brown, turning to brown all sides ; four hours before needed pour on just hoilinr/ water enough to cover ; cover with a closel3'-ntting lid, boil gently, and as the water boils away add only just enough from time to time to keep from burning, so that when meat is tender, the water may all be boiled awav, as the fat will allow the meat to brown without burning ; turn occasionally, brown evenly over a slow fire, and make a gravy bv adding hot water if necessary to the drippings and thicken with browned flour. Season the meat with salt an hour before it is done. A nice flavor is given by putting in the water three bay leaves, or a bunch savory herbs, with a half dozen each allspice and whole pep- pers. Serve' with the grav}' poured over the meat, which will be juicy and tender if properly cooked, all the juices having been con- fined to the pot and returned to the meat by the process of frying down. Potatoes pared and halved are sometimes put in with the meat and as the liquor boils away are browned Avith it. Serve as a garnish around the meat. Corned Beef may be freshened in cold water by soaking overnight, changing the water once or twice, and used for pot-roasts, and any other fresh meat may be cooked thus. When the meat is fat no other fat will be needed. Ragout of Beef . — For six pounds of the round, take half dozen ripe tomatoes, cut up with two or three onions, put in vessel with tight cover, add half a dozen cloves, a stick cinnamon, and a little whole black pepper ; lard the meat with fat pork, place it on the other ingredients, and pour over them half a cup vinegar and cup water; cover tightly and l)ake slowly in a moderate oven four or five hours ; when about half done, salt to taste. "When done, take out the meat, strain the gravy through a colander and thicken with flour. BroUed Beefstenh. — The tenderloin, porterhouse and girloin steaks are choicest and most expensive, but the flank steak is con- sidered a rare bit, and the round and rump steaks are more nutri- tious and better flavored. Have the steak cut about three-fourths of an inch thick ; trim ofi' tough outer skin, gristle and bits of suet, which will melt and drip into the fire and smoke the meat, but never wash a freshly cut steak, wiping with a damp cloth instead, if neces- sary. If sure"^ that the steak is tender do not pound or chop it ; if a little tough some pound just enough to break the fibre, but it is bet- MEATS. 477 ter to hack with a sharp knife each way, not cutting quite through. When thus prepared care must be taken in placing the steak to broil to gather it up in compact shape or it will not look well when served. Never salt or pepper steak before broiling, for reasons heretofore given, but if very lean dip into melted butter. For complete direc- tions as to broiling see Broiled Meats. Inexperienced cooks will need to try the steak to know when it is done ; make a small clean cut in center with sharp knife and if the inside is purple and raw looking it must be cooked longer, but if a bright red just verging on brown, with nicely browned edges, it is done. Only the mere out- side should be browned for a well-broiled steak, which should be cooked in from seven to twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done. Some like steak cut from an inch to an inch and a half thick, which will require longer cooking. Instead of seasoning by sprinkling with pepper and salt and putting bits of butter over the steak, have the butter placed on hot platter on which it is to be served, with a liberal sprinkling of pepper and salt ; take the steak up quickly on this and press a little, then turn and j^ress again, and it will be found nicely seasoned, and much more evenly than in the old way. Send to table immediately as hot as possible, for nothing is more tame and unsatisfactory than a cold, clammy steak. If it must stand while more is broiled set over a kettle of hot water, in the hot closet, or open oven, aiming to keep hot and confine the steam and juices without placing where it will cook more. Broiled f^teak may be gar- nished with fried sliced potatoes, or browned potato balls the size of a marble, piled at each end of platter, with scraped horse-radish or slices of cucumber or lemon or sprigs of parsley. Mushroom, oyster, tomato, brown onion, drawn butter and other sauces are frequent accompaniments to steak, but true lovers of this dish, when properly prepared, generally reject all additions but pepper and salt, though some like steaks dished on a little catsup or minced onion. A bit of onion rubbed over the platter before taking up the steak, gives a delicate flavor that is delicious, without any of the offonsiveness the onion taste imparts, if used more largely. Some dredge round or rump steaks on turning them the last time with a mixture of four tablespoons sifted biscuit or rusk crumbs, one tablespoon salt, one teaspoon pepper, a saltspoon of either onion-powder, mushroom- powder or finely pulverized celery salt, and dish with a little mush- room catsup and small piece of butter. Another nice way of serving is to have potatoes cut into long thin slices and fried brown in but- ter, take up and add to the butter in which they were fried a tea- spoon minced herbs, stir and place on hot platter, dish the broiled steak on this and put the fried potatoes round as a garnish. For broiled or fried steaks, cutlets and chops of beef, veal, lamb or mutton, a Gold Marinadeis made by mixing together a buuch of sweet herbs, cut fine, juice of half a lemon, two tablespoons oil, six of vinegar, one of onion juice, a pinch of cayenne, quarter tea- 478 JfEATS. spoon pepper and half as much ground cloves. Sprinkle the meat with this and let stand a day, or ten or twelve hours. When meat is cooked season with salt to taste. Fried Beefsteak. — When the means to broil are not at hand, the next best method is to heat the frying-pan very hot, put in steak, prepared as for broiling, but cut rather thinner, brown or sear a« quickly as possible on both sides to keep in the juices, then cook until done, turning several times. A small pair of tongs are best to turn steaks, as piercing with a fork frees the juices. When done transfer to a hot platter, season with salt and pepper, and put over it bits of butter ; pile the steaks one on top of another, and cover with a hot platter. This way of frying is both healthful and delicate, and a steak cooked thus has all its juices preserved, and in some re- spects is nearly as good as broiled steak. Or, another way is to heat frying-pan, trim off the fat from the steak, cut in small bits and set on to fry ; meanwhile pound steak, then draw bits of suet to one side and put in steak, turn quickly over several times so as to sear the outside, take out on a hot platter previously prepared with salt and pepper, turn once or twice and return to ])an, repeating the operation until steak is done ; dish on a hot platter, covering with another platter, and place where it will keep hot while making grav}'. Place a tablespoon dry flour in frying-pan, being sure to have the fat boil- ing hot, stir until brown and free from lumps (the bits of suet may be left in, drawing them to one side until flour is browned), pour in about half a pint boiling Avater (milk or cream is better), stir well, season with pepper and salt, and serve in gravy tureen. Spread bits of butter over steak and send to table at once. Or, after seasoning withpejjper and salt, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, then drop lemon juice over, and put on. bits of butter last; set in hot oven a moment for butter to melt and soak into steak. Or, With Oysters, put those from which all bits of shell have been carefully removed, over tlic cooked steak with pieces of butter on top and set in hot oven until the edges of oysters begin to curl, then serve. A little water may be added to liquor from oysters, with a thickening of corn-starch, and seasoning to taste, making a sauce which may be served in spoonfuls over the steak and oysters. Or put a ])int oys- ters to drain in colander, turning cup Avater over them ; put all liquor that drains off on to heat, and when it boils, skim and set back. Fry the steak as above, then take up and stir tablespoon flour into the fat in pan until dark brown ; add the oyster liquor, boil one minute, season with salt and pejipor, put the steak in, cover and simmer ten or flfteen minutes; then add the oysters and tablespoon lemon juice, boil one minute and serve on hot dish with oysters on steak, the gravy poured round, and a garnish of croutons. Some like white onions, sliced and fried a golden brown in deep, hot fat, laid over steak. Broiled steak may be served same. For Beefsteak Smoth- eredin Onions, slice the onions thin and drop in cold water — some MEATS. 479 parboil them ; put steak in hot pan with a little suet ; skim out on- ions and add to steak, season with pepper and salt, cover tightly, and put over the fire. When the juice of the onions has dried up, and the meat has browned on one side, remove onions, turn steak, replace onions and fry till done, being careful not to burn. Serve liot, both on same platter. Another Avay of preparing is to boil the onions until tender, and fry the steak alone as directed above; when done, take out, season as usual and place Vvdiere it will keep hot. Drain the onions and mash them in the frying-pan with the steak gravy, season with salt and pepper and stir over the fire until hot all through, then })lace them over the steak and serve. Beefsteaks are nice to first stew them in three gills water and two tablespoons vinegar, to which has been added a bunch sweet herbs, two blades mace, an on'ion stuck with cloves, an anchovy, and a lump of butter mixed smooth with flour. Stew with the pan covered, until the steaks are just tender ; then place in a frying-pan with enough fresh butter, hot, to cover, fry brown, pour ofl""fat, and pour into pan gravy in which steaks were stewed ; when gravy is thoroughly heated, place steaks in a hot dish and pour sauce over them. Hamburg Steak. — Cut two pounds round or rump steak into small pieces and pass through a chopping machine, or have butcher chop very fine ; or the meat maybe scraped off the fiores with a heavy tin or iron spoon. Pepper and salt the meat to taste, mix in two tablespoons melted butter,drippings or lard (butter is preferable), form into steaks and fry in a little hot butter or drippings, being careful not to cook too much. Any kind of meat can be used for this steak if one has a machine to ])ass it through. A few slices of onion may be put into the hot butter and fried with the steak, as they remove the taste of the fat, and yet do not leave their own fla- vor ; take out the onion before serving. For a Hamburg Roll, chop round steak fine, season Avell and shape into a roll ; put in a frying- pan a tablespoon or more of butter to each pound meat, when hot place the meat in it, cover and cook until as well done as liked. Take out the meat and make a brown gravy by stirring into the drippings in the pan a thickening of flour and water and serve poured over the meat. Hidden Steaks. — Have two slices of beef, each half an inch thick, cut from round. Take two or more porterhouse steaks, from one and a half to two inches thick ; remove bones from each, taking care not to separate tenderloin from upper part of steak. Butter, salt and pepper the steaks on each side ; spread over one slice of the round half a can of mushrooms ; place porterhouse steaks on the mushrooms, then distribute the rest of the mushrooms over the steaks, covering them with the other slice of beef from the round. Bring the edges of the two slices together and sew. Rub vinegar and salt over the outside of each slice, which will harden them and 480 MEATS. not only prevent their juices from dropping into the fire when being cooked, but force them into the ench~»sed steaks. Place the meat then on a doul)le wire broiler and cook for from ten to fifteen min- utes over a bed of hot coals, turning the broiler every minute or two. The outside of the slices from the round will V)e done to a crisp. Be- fore servintj, draw the thread binding them together, and lift care- fully off' the upper slice, placing it with the crisp side down on a platter. Remove the steaks to a hot dish and s]>read over them all of the mushrooms. Scrape with a spoon the inside of each slice of the round, obtaining a quantity of rich juice, which pour over the steaks. If a gravy is desired turn this juice into a saucepan, add a portion of the mushrooms, a piece of butter the size of an egg and a gill beef stock ; when it boils pour it over the steak. 0}/ster Steaks. — Cut beefsteak into pieces two inches square, or about the size of large oysters, single-bread them and fry a nice brown by immersing in hot lard as Croquettes. Poi'k, Veal and Mutton may be fried same way. Or they may be dipped in a batter and fried as above. Stuffed Beefsteak. — This can be prepared from a round steak and is as nice for dinner as a much more expensive roast ; pound well, season with salt, pepper and bits of butter, then spread with a nice dressing made of one egg, bread-crumbs, pepper, sage and a little cream or butter; roll up and tie closely with twine ; put in ket- tle with quart boiling water, and a lump of butter if liked, and boil slowly one hour; take out and place in dripping-pan, adding water in which it was boiled, basting frequently until a nice brown, and making gravy of the drippings ; or put it at once into the dripping- pan, omit the boiling process, skewer a couple slices salt pork on top, add a very little water, put in oven, baste frequently, and if it bakes too rapidly cover with a dripping-pan. It is delicious sliced cold. This is known also as Mock Duck. For Beef Olives have two pounds nice rump steak cut rather thin, slightly beat to make levtd. cut into six or seven pieces, brush over with egg, and sprinkle with herbs, winch should be very finely minced ; season with pepper and salt, roll up the pieces tightly, and fasten with small skewers or Avooden toothpicks. Put a pint stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them, for by being pressed together they will keep their slinjte better ; lay in the rolls of meat, cover them with bacon, cut in tliin slices, and over that put a piece of paper. Stew very genthj two hours ; the slower they are done the better. Take out, remove skewers, thicken gravy with butter and flour, and flavor with any sauce preferred. Give one boil, pour over the meat and serve. Or aft(n- cutting and seasoning the steaks spread them thinly with a nice force-meat, then roll up tightly, fasten with a skewer, single- bread them and fry a pale brown by immersing in hot fat. Serve with any sauce liked. MEATS. 481 Beefsteak Pie. — Cut three pounds rump steak into pieces about three inches long and two wide, allowing a small piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the meat in layers in a pudding dish. Be- tween each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt, pepper, and when liked, a small pinch cayenne or some chopped parsley. Fill the dish with sufficient meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice raised appearance when baked. Pour in enoup"h water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see pastry) ; brush it over with a little water, and put on thecover; slightly press in edges with thumli, and trim off close to dish. Ornament pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct, brush it over with the Roll Glaze, cut a hole in top of crust, and bake in a hot oven for about an hour and a half. Or first prepare seasoning of three parts salt and one part black pepper, with just a dash of ground nutmeg, and season with it enough thin slices of nice tender steak to fill the dish, which must be lined with paste ; sprinkle slices with chopped parsley and roll up, passing a small woodenskewer or wooden tooth- pick through each to hold in place. When dish is full add enough water to make a good gravy and lay on top slices of hard-boiled eggs, cover with the crust, wash over with beaten eggs and bake in moder- ate oven. Should be done when it has baked twenty minutes. For another nice pie take slices of beef cut very thin and a few thicker pieces out of a loin of pork. Spread slices of beef with pota- toes, chopped onion and fine herbs ; roll up and tie with thread. Pack the meat into dish with parsley between each layer ; pour a little gravy over the whole, season liberally and bake under a light crust. Beefsteak pies may be flavored with oysters, mushrooms, minced onions, etc., and the crust may be made of suet instead of lard or butter, and where economy is necessary, clarified drippings may be used. Cutting the meat in small pieces as above makes it more ten- der and more easily served and also gives more gravy than when left in larger pieces. For a Sea Pie, line a good-sized dish with paste made with fresh beef suet. Cut in small pieces one pound beef; lay it on bottom of dish ; slice in an onion, sprinkle a handful of flour over and add a little pepper and salt to taste. Cover all with water, fill the dish Avith potatoes that have been peeled and laid in clean cold water ; cover the top of the dish with a good paste, tie a cloth tightly round, plunge into boiling water, and boil quickly two hours. A very nourishing dish when well cooked. This is of- ten made of corned beef, when the dish is lined with any plain pastry or rich baking powder crust. Put in first a layer of sliced onions, then a layer corned beef cut in slices, then sliced potatoes, a layer of pork, and another of onions ; strew pepper over all, cover with a crust and tie down tightly with a cloth previously dipped in boiling water and floured. Boil two hours, and serve hot. Beefsteak Pudding. — Chop fine a half pound nice suet and mix with it a scant pound flour, teaspoon salt, half saltspoon pepper and 482 MEATS. enough cold water to form a dough to roll as for biscuit ; roll out to three-fourths of an inch in thickness and line a buttered two-quart bowl with it, leaving the crust hanging over tlie edge all round. Cut two pounds round steak into inch squares, some add also two sheep's kidneys cut in squares, and place in the crust with a dessertspoon each Worcester sauce and mushroom catsup; season well with pep- per and salt, turn in a half cup cold water and draw the crust up over the meat, wetting the edges to make them stick together, and tie to confine the juices or gravy while the meat is cooking, or the dish Avill be spcnled ; wet a cloth in hot water, dust over with flour, and tie the pudding in it by jilacing the center of cloth on top of dish and bringing corners underneath, tie them tightly with cord. Have ready a large pot of ])oiling water in wliich stand the pudding bowl and boil steadily three hours. To serve, remove cloth, turn the ])udding out on a hot platter without breaking the crust and send to table hot. Or it may be served in the bowl enveloped in a nap- kin. A rich gravy will come from the meat, a sj)oonfal or two of which will be served on each plate with a slice of the pudding. Some make paste as above, roll out half an inch thick and lay on it slices of steak well seasoned with pepper and salt, roll up, tie in a cloth, and boil three hours. A few oysters and a sliced onion improve the dish for some. Mock Quail. — Cut tenderloin into nice-sized pieces and boil un- til cooked through, then brown in a frying-pan with a little butter and serve on slices of toasted bread a little larger than the slices of meat, pouring a rich brown gravy made in pan over all. Toad-hi-IIole. — Cut a pound round or rump steak into dice and make this batter : Beat an egg very light, stir into one pint milk with a half teaspoon salt, and pour gradually over one cup flour, beating until light and smooth ; butter a two-quart baking dish and put in the meat, season well with butter, pepper and salt and pour in the batter. Bake an liour in a moderate oven and serve hot. Mut- ton or Lamb may be used instead of beef. Or mix with the steak a shee]/s kidney cut into pieces of same size. The remains of cold beef may be substituted for the steak, and when liked the smallest quantity of minced onion or shallot may be added. Boiled Corned Beef. — Soak the meat overnight if very salt, but if beef is young and properly corned this is not necessary ; skewer into nice form and put on with cold water enough to cover well, af- ter washing off the salt. Corned beef should be placed on a part of the stove or range where it will simmer, not boil, uninterruptedly from four to six hours, according to the size of the piece. When done, remove skewers, pour over it a little of the liquor and garnish with vegetables neatlv sliced or cut into balls or fancv shapes. Boned Corced Bc.f. rpj^^ ^^^^^^ ^j -^^g ^j^^^^ ,^^,^ ^^^ ..^.^ ^.^^^^j^ ^^^^^ Unslghtly may be cut off before sending the meat to table and kept for potting. MEATS. 483 Put away the liquor for soup. Boiled vegetables and sometimes suet dumplings accompany this dish and are often boiled with meat. Serve with Horse-radish Gravy. If to be sliced cold, let meat re- main in liquor until cold ; some let tough beef remain in liquor until next day to make tender, bringing to boiling point just before serv- ing. Simmer a brisket or plate-piece until the bones are easily re- moved, fold over, forming a square or oblong piece, wrap in a towel, place sufficient weight on top to pressthe parts closely together, and set where it will become cold. This gives a firm, solid piece to cut in slices, and is a delightful relish. Boil liquor down, remove fat, season with pepper or sweet herbs, and save it to pour over finely minced scraps and pieces of beef; press them firmly into a mold, pour the liquor over and place a close cover with a weight upon it. When turned from the mold, garnish with sprigs of parsley or cel- er}', and serve with fancy pickles or French mustard. Any bottled sauce is nice with cold beef, or make Carrack Sauce by slicing two heads garlic, adding one quart good vinegar, three spoonfuls mango pickle, five of essence of anchovies (or fifteen anchovies), eight of Avalnut pickle, five of mushroom catsup, and five of so3\ Mix all in a bottle, and set in cupboard by the kitchen fire or in some dry, warm place. Shake it regularly every day for a month. The man- go pickle may be omitted. For Saiidwlches slice cold beef very thin. For Collared Beef, take seven pounds corned beef, not too fat, from thin end of flank, bone it, remove all gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, si)rinkle thickly with a mixture of a large hand- ful of parsley, a dessertspoon sage finely minced, half teaspoon powdered allspice, and salt and pepper to taste. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible in nice round form, bind firmly with broad tape and boil gently six hours. Take up and put under a weight without undoing it and let remain until cold. Very nice for breakfast, luncheon or tea. Some use ribs of beef and remove bones before rubbing with salt, etc., and bake instead of boiling, first sea- soning with ground pepper, mace, cloves, allspice and a clove of gar- lic, chopped very fine, then covering well with parsley, thyme and sweet marjoram. Form into a roll as above, omitting the cloth, simply binding with tape and bake. Put under weights for a day or two and serve cold. Corned Beef Stew. — Procure a piece of brisket of corned beef about three times its width in length, weighing about six pounds. Wash in cold water, season with pepper, roll and tie very tightly; put over fire in pot with cold water to cover and bring slowly to l3oiling point; then pour off the water and cover again with fresh, add a half pint vinegar, an onion stuck with ten cloves, a small red pepper, blade of mace, and a stalk of celery or parsley with root at- tached. Boil gently until done^ allowing half an hour for each pound meat. When done, take out a pint of liquor, and if too salt for gravy add water and a very little vinegar. Brown a tablespoon each but- 484 MEATS. ter and flour in saucepan, add the pint liquor, season to taste and serve with the beef, which should be accompanied with boiled beets, cabbage or turnips. If to be served cold let cool in the liquor. Any cut of corned beef may be cooked same. Suet dumplings may be added. Or cut pieces of salt beef and pork into dice, put in stewpan with six whole pepper-corns, two blades mace, a few cloves, teaspoon celery seed, ana bunch of dried sweet herbs ; cover with water, and stew gently for an hour, then add diced carrots, turnips and parsnips, or any other vegetables at hand, with two sliced onions, and some vinegar to flavor ; thicken with flour, or rice, remove the herbs and pour in dish with toasted bread, or freshly baked biscuit broken small, and serve hot. A few potatoes should also be cooked with it. Stu-fFed BrisTcet of ^ee/*.— Wash a brisket of corned beef in cold water, cut out bone, spread a bread and onion dressing over it, roll it up and tie securely ; then roll the beef in a cloth, tie the ends of the cloth, and again a few inches from each end. Put it into enough boiling water to cover and boil gently four hours. Unroll it, stuffed Brisk«tofEe«.r. take off strings, wet the cloth in cold water, and roll it again around the beef; put the roll between two platters, set a heavyweight on the upper one, and press the meat until it is cold, i^fter the meat is pressed and cold, the cloth may be removed, and the meat sliced and served. Frizzled Beefivith Eggs. — Cut a pound smoked dried beef in very thin slices; put it in frying-pan with cold water to cover and when it begins to boil, drain'ofl' water and put in two tabkvspoons butter; beat six eggs smoothly with half cup cold milk nnd add to beef, season with salt and pepper and stir over fire until the eggs begin to thicken. Serve on toast. Yanl'ee Dried Beef.— Slice very thin, put in frying-pan with water to cover, let come to boiling ])oint, pour off, and add pint milk, lump of butter, and thickening of little flour and milk, stir well, and just before serving some add an egg, stirring it in quickly ; or, chip very fine, freshen, add a lump of butter and six or eight eggs, stir well and serve at once. Cold boiled or baked beef may be sliced and cooked in same way. Or, after the freshening, first frizzle it in but- ter, dredge with flour, and add the milk. When ends or thin pieces of dried beef become too dry and hard, put in cold water and boil very slowly six or eight hours ; slice when cold, and the broth is nice for soup ; or soak overnight in cold water, and boil three or four hours. Many think all dried beef is improved by this method. I^ew England Boiled Dinner. — Remove bone from a compact cut of round of corned beef weighing about six pounds, and tie meat as firmly as possil)le ; put in deep pot, cover with cold water, add a teaspoon salt and half saltspoou white pepper; let boil quickly, MEATS. , 485 removing all scum ; when no more scum rises put in the following vegetables, peeled and cut in slices two inches thick : two carrots, four beets, four white turnips, and one yellow turnip, six small onions, peeled so that they will remain unbroken, and a large head of celery cut in two-inch lengths. Place the pot where its contents will simmer slowly two hours. A glass of any table sauce preferred may be added before the dish is finished. To serve it, put meat in middle of platter, arrange vegetables around it, and pour a little of the gravy over. More of the gravy should be served in a small boat, with a dish of boiled potatoes. The united flavor of the meat and vegetables characterizes the dish. The beets may be boiled separ- ately, keeping them whole, if preferred. Potato Pot. — Slice a quarter pound bacon, cut two pounds freshened corned beef in small pieces and put over the fire in frying- pan to brown with two sliced onions. Peel and quarter a dozen potatoes and when meat and onions are brown put them in deep baking dish, in layers with the potatoes. Make a pint gravy by adding boiling water and seasonings to the drippings in frying-pan, thicken with two teaspoons flour dissolved in a little cold water ; pour the gravy over the meat and potatoes, and put them in quick oven to bake. They will be done in about an hour, and should be served hot ; if sent to table in the same dish in which it is baked, a clean dish must be placed under it. Baked Heart. — Take the heart of a beef, sheep or A'eal, wash thoroughly, and some soak in warm water or vinegar and water from two to four hours to remove all blood ; make the two cells into one by cutting through the partition with a long, sharp knife, being careful not to cut through to the outside ; fill the cavity with a stufling of bread-crumbs, or veal or other highly seasoned force-meat ; cover with greased paper or cloth to secure stufling, and bake in a deep pan with a few slices salt pork and plenty of water, in a moderate oven for two hours or longer, basting and turning often, as the upper part particularly is apt to get dry ; dredge with flour and baste as in Roasted Meats the last half hour. While this is roasting, put the valves of the heart, or "deaf ears," which must be cut off" after wash- ing, into a saucepan with a pint of cold water and a sliced onion. Let simmer slowly one hour ; melt in saucepan tablespoon butter, add a tablespoon flour, then the strained liquor from valves, and ^^^^$>^ serve as gravy. Garnish with baked onions ^^Oi^M^s^ and red currant jelly. Some parboil the /^"^^^^^^^^^M^^^^ heart before stuffing, which makes it more yC ^^HJlBH ^i^. tender, and it may be simply stuffed with ^■^^^i I II II -'<-.'•'•■■' gage and onion. If to be served cold, soak a beef's heart overnight in weak brine and boil three hours be- fore stuffing, then put in oven twenty minutes, or just long enough to cook the dressing. Serve cold, cut in thin slices. Sheep's and 486 • MEATS. lambs' hearts are often baked with a slice of fat bacon tied round each. Make a gravy in pan and serve poured round thera. Calf's heart, baked as above, is nice served with the lights and liver; boil the lights till tender then cut in small pieces, add enough of the water they were boiled in for gravy and tal)le- >:ss^^,^„.„^^_ ^s, spoon lemon juice, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and tal)lespoon butter mixed with flour to thicken ; let boil and serve with the liver, cut in pieces an inch square and broiled, as a garnish for the heart. Cold boiled heart can be sliced thin, then fried or broiled. Filled Heart. — Soak the heart in warm water an hour, then cut into slices half an inch thick, dip in flour, then in egg, tlicn in bread- crumbs seasoned with jxjpper and salt and fry in a small quantity of butter or American cooking oil. If all cannot be fried at once be sure to place the slices fried first Avhcre they will keep hot until all are done. Pour off part of the fat and make a gravy by stirring in a teaspoon flour and adding a gill water, pepper and salt, four table- spoons vinegar from piccalilli and alittle of the pickle finely chopped , boil all one minute, pour over the fried heart and serve very hot. It is also very good served with broiled bacon with a plain gravy, gar- nished Avith slices of lemon. Or the slices of heart may be plainly fried in a little hot drippings or butter and served with each slice covered with a slice of fried bacon. Thicken two or three table- spoons Avatcr with a little flour and boil in pan with drippings heart was fried in, season with pepper and salt, add teas2")oon red currant jelly and serve poured round the heart, all as hot as possible. Piclded Heart. — AVash the heart well and put on to boil Avith a tablespoon salt in water to cover. Cook until tender, take out and cool, then cut into slices. Boil two-thirds cup vinegar with a half cup water, seasoned with a tablespoon cinnamon and half tablespoon pepper, ten minutes and pour over the sliced heart. Will be nicely pickled and ready for use in two or three hours. Pickle may be seasoned with any spices liked. BaJced Liver. — Any liver ma}' be baked, though calf's liver is a much more delicate dish than any other. To bake or roast plainly, first soak in clear water, though some use salted water to extract the blood, and some skin, as this gives a more delicate flavor. Then dry in a cloth, rub over well with salt and melted butter or drip- pings and bake in a pan on a trivet, as Roast Beef, basting often with butter or drippings. When done sprinkle with pepper and serve with a piquant sauce, flavored with chopped capers or gherkins, poured over. Larded Liver is a delicious dish. Soak as above and lard a whole calf's liver, about three pounds, as directed in Larding Meats; place in a pan on bed of vegetables prepared as for Roast Beef and bake an hour and a half, basting often. Some put a but- MEATS. 487 tered paper over it until nearly done, then remove to let the liver and larding brown. To make the gravy, pour away nearly all the drippings from pan, leaving about two tablespoons ; rub through sieve with potato masher and put in saucepan with tablespoon flour, stir until brown and add slowly a pint water. Or lard the liver and sprinkle with salt and pepper and a teaspoon mixed spices, putting another teaspoon spices in pan with half pint water. Baste with butter until gravy in pan is rich enough to baste with that, dredging with flour after each basting. Serve with gravy from pan poured over, flavored with lemon juice, first skimming off" all fat from top. After larding, the liver is sometimes put in a pickle of vinegar with spices and herbs and left tAventy-four hours. Then bake as above, using some of the vinegar from pickle in pan instead of water. For Boiled Larded Livei\ prepare as above, season with salt and pepper, tie a cord around the liver to keep in shape, put in kettle with quart cold water, quarter pound bacon, onion chopped fine, and teaspoon sweet marjoram; simmer slowly for two hours, pour off" gravy into gravy-dish, and brown liver in kettle. Serve with the gravy. For Stuffed Liver, soak as above, then make one or more incisions and fill with any stuffing liked, or a force-meat made of part of the liver parboiled and chopped fine with fat bacon, bread-crumbs, powdered sweet herbs, spices and pepper and salt ; roll the liver, bind pieces of fat pork or bacon over, or lard it, and bake as above. Serve hot for dinner with gravy from pan, or sliced cold for luncheon or tea. Broiled Liver. — Cut the liver in thin slices, pour boiling hot water over and immediately drain it off; this seals the outside, takes away the unpleasant flavor, and makes it much more palatable ; then skin, as this also gives a strong flavor, season with pepper and salt, dip in melted butter or drippings and broil on buttered gridiron or broiler, as directed in Broiled Meats. Some dip also in flour before broiling. Dish on a hot platter, pour melted butter over and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Calf's liver is very nice broiled, though any liver may be thus cooked. Slices of broiled bacon may be served with it. Curried Liver. — Cut the liver in small, thin pieces, and for every pound take four tablespoons butter, two slices of onion, two table- spoons flour, speck of cayenne, salt, pepper and teaspoon curry powder. Heat butter in frying-pan and cook the liver in it slowly five minutes, then add flour and other ingredients ; cook two min- utes, stirring all well, add a cap stock, boil up and serve. Deviled Liver. — Chop three pounds liver with a quarter pound salt pork and mix Avith a half pint bread-crumbs, three tablespoons salt, teaspoon pepper, half teaspoon each cayenne, mace and cloves. Put in covered mold and set in saucepan cold water ; bring to a boil and boil two hours. Take out the mold, uncover and place in oven 488 MEATS. to dry off, then set away to get cold. To serve, turn out of mold and slice as wanted at table. Fried Liver. — Prepare as directed in Broiled Liver, and have ready in skillet on stove some hot lard or beef drippings, or better, half and half; roll the liver in flour (Graham is nice), cracker or bread-crumbs, nicely seasoned with pepper and salt, put in skillet, placing the tin cover on, fry slowly until both sides are dark-brown, when the liver will be thoroughly cooked. The time required is about a quarter of an hour. Make a gravy by stirring into the drip- pings a tablespoon flour and adding a pint milk. Boil up, season and serve poured over the liver. Some always single-bread liver. Or first throw into the hot drippings a half onion minced fine, if the flavor is liked, and one or two sprigs parsley, chopped. Turn the liver several times that it may absorb the flavor. When done put where it will keep hot and make a sauce in another pan by stirring a teaspoon flour into tablespoon hot butter until brown, add cup boiling water, stirring well, and pepper, salt, tablesj^oon vinegar and heaping tablespoon capers. Drain the slices of liver from fat and })ut into sauce until ready to serve, when arrange neatly on dish and turn the sauce over. For Royal Fried Liver, cut two-thirds pound calf's liver into slices, and fry half in butter ; then pound in a mor- tar, with a few capers, a few gherkins, allspice, and sugar, press through a sieve, and add juice of a lemon, and a little pepper, salt, and vinegar. Put in hot water or near the fire, but not on it, to keep hot. Flour the remaining slices and fry in fresh butter, place on a plate, and pour over them the first part; reduced to a thick sauce. Will be found delicious. Liver Rolls may be served with the above sauce. Fried Liver and Bacon\B a dish common at most tables. Fry in a pan slices of bacon and keep hot while frying thin slices of liver, prepared as in Broiled Liver, in same fat. When done serve liver and bacon on same dish, garnished with slices of lemon or force-meat balls. Make a gravy by dredging a little flour in pan af- ter pouring oft' some of the fat, adding a fourth pint broth, salt, pep- per, tablespoon mushroom catsup and one of finely chopped gher- kins or pickled walnuts if liked. Boil and pour round tlie liver in dish. Or serve with tomato sauce. Liver is apt to be dry and liard unless first dropped into boiling water, or let stand ten minutes or so in warm water. A good Avay is to steep it in vinegar and water half an hour, then cut into thin slices, skin, roll in flour, fry very crisp, and serve with fried onions. Some cut bacon and liver into small squares, place on skewers alternately, fry by immersing in hot fat, or in dripping pan in oven, turning two or tbree times, and serve on moist buttered toast. Sheep's liver should be ]iar- boiled before frying. For Minced Liver, cut in pieces and fry with slices of pork ; then cut both into dice, nearly cover with water, add a little lemon-juice and pepper, thicken the gravy with bread-crumbs or browned flour, and serve. MEATS. 489 Stewed Liver. — Scald and skin the liver, cut into slices and fry till both sides are brown, then pour on boiling water, or canned tomatoes, also boiling, to cover, and stew fifteen or twenty minutes, keeping closely covered. Serve hot, with macaroni if liked. If rolled in flour before frying there will be a nice gravy for stewing. Or parboil, then cut into small pieces, dust over with flour, and stew in as little water as possible ; season with butter, pepper and salt, and a little chopped onion if liked. Just before serving thicken the gravy with flour and serve hot. To stew calf's liver, cut in pieces, lard nicely, and spread chopped parsley, pepper and salt over them ; put a small piece of butter well mixed with flour in the bottom of a stewpan, lay in the liver, and let it cook gently in its own juice until done. Liver Balls. — Any liver may be used, but chicken livers are preferred. Chop very fine, adding parsley, onion, and lemon juice until all forms a good sauce. Beat a cup butter to a cream, add six whole eggs, one at time, and stir well, adding little salt. If the mix- ture gets too cold and the batter separates, beat it near the fire. Then mix in the liver and thicken with sifted bread-crumbs. Have ready a kettle with either boiling water or soup — the latter is better — take the liver mixture by the spoonful, taking care to dip the spoon in hot water each time, drop in the hot liquid and boil. These balls are for soup, and Meat Balls from the same recipe are very good. Liver Bolls. — Slice the liver, let stand in boiling water five min- utes or so, remove the skin and season with salt and pepper. Put a thin piece of fat, salt pork or bacon on each slice and roll up, fasten- ing with a string or pinning with toothpicks. Fry until nicely browned in hot drippings or butter, then stir in a tablespoon flour and when this has browned cover with Avater, add more seasoning if necessary and cook half an hour. Maybe served as a regular meat course at dinner. A slice of truffle may be rolled with the bacon. Or, cut two sheep's livers in slices half an inch thick ; season with salt and pepper, spread over each a layer of sausage meat as thick as the liver, season that, roll each slice up, and tie in place with a string, put in baking pan on a bed of vegetables as in Roast Beef, put over each roll a tablespoon of brown gravv, and bake in moderate oven about forty minutes or until thoroughly cooked ; lay them on a hot platter, add a gill stock or water to the pan, stir the vegetables about in it, and strain over the liver. Serve very hot. Liver Pudding. — Chop three pounds raw liver and a fourth pound fat salt pork together, add half pint bread-crumbs, three tea- spoons salt, one of black pepper, half teaspoon each mace and cay- enne, a pinch of cloves, and put in covered mold or tin pail ; set in kettle of cold water, having water reach half the height of mold, cover the kettle, and cook, after it begins to boil, two hours. Take 490 MEATS. out mold, uncover and set in open oven to let steam pass ofif. Serve cold. Blanquetie of Calfs Liver. — "Wash two pounds of calf's liver, put it into a stewpan with two quarts of boiling water, and simmer three hours. Take up and cool, then cut it 'nto little cubes, and season with salt and pepper. Put three tablespoons pepper in fry- ing-pan with one large slice of onion, and cook slowly three minutes ; then add three tablespoons tiour, and stir until mixture is smooth and frothy, but not brown. Draw the pan back, and gradually add a pint white stock ; then remove the onion, and, drawing the pan to hot part of stove, stir until it boils. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Put the liver in pan, and cook eight minutes, add a half cup milk, and when the blanquette boils up, remove from fire, add tablespoon lemon juice and serve without delay. Mock Terrapin. — Season half a calf's liver with salt and fry brown in butter, cut in small bits, dredge well with flour, add half pint water, teaspoon each mixed mustard and lemon juice, half salt- spoon cayenne, two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and two table- spoons butter. Boil a minute or two and serve. Cold veal may be used instead of liver. Broiled Kidneys. — Chop fine one teaspoon each onions, parsley and any green herb in season ; add one level teaspoon salt, half saltspoon pepper, pinch of cayenne and tablespoon butter ; mix on a plate and set where it will get hot. Wash the kidneys in cold salted water, split and take out membrane and white fat, lay in hot melted butter a moment, then broil on hot buttered gridiron or broiler, then roll them over and over in the hot prepared seasonings. Serve as quickly as possible garnished with sprigs of parsley or slices of lemon. Or before broiling dip the kidneys into a mixture of tablespoon each oil or melted butter and vinegar, saltspoon salt, pinch of pepper and teaspoon mustard. Slices of Veal Kidney n and Bacon are sometimes broiled on skewers, placed alternately, and served on the skcAvers. Broiled S/tee/fs Kidneys are done i^an^e; or, cut open on the l)ack without entirely separating them, run them on a skewer to keep them flat, dredge with pejiper and salt, rub lightly with butter or oil and broil threo minutes on each side over hot fire, laying tlie flat sides first on gridiron to keep the gravy in. Some slice them through the fat before broiling, leaving just enough fat on for a border round the kidney. Serve very hot with a bit of butter, pepper salt and a little lemon juice on each, or with drawn butter sauce poured over, or on slices of buttered toast cut in fancy shapes, or thin slices of broiled potatoes, viHh a bit of butter on each. Some think sheep's kidneys better than calves" for broiling. Broiled Slieep^ Heart is cooked the same. Or place either flat side up in baking dish in oven and when done serve dressed as above in dish in MEATS. 491 which they were baked. Kidneys must always he cooked very quick- ly or they will be dry and hard. Some skin kidneys before cooking. Fried Kidneys. — Cut a beef kidney into thin slicfes, removing all fat, and soak an hour or two .in warm water, changing the water two or three times; dry in a clean cloth and fry in clarijfied butter or drippings till a nice brown, rolling first in flour if preferred. Season well with salt and pepper and serve around a dish with gravy in the center ; just before dishing add a little lemon juice and sugar to the gravy. Some sprinkle the kidney slices with minced parsley and onion and seasoning of salt and pepper before frying. If the onion flavor is not liked use a small quantity of savory herbs. Flavor the gravy with tablespoon mushroom catsup and add a little lemon juice. Pour over the kidney and garnish with border of croutons. Mutton Kidneys may be done same. Stewed Kidneys. — If wanted for breakfast, boil kidneys the night before till very tender, turn into a dish with the gravy and cover. In the morning, boil for a few moments, thicken with flour and water, add part of an onion chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and a lump of butter, and pour over toasted bread well buttered. Or split the kidneys and slice them thin on a plate ; dust with flour, pepper and salt ; brown some flour in butter in a stewpan, mix smooth with a little water, put in the sliced kidneys and let them simmer, but not boil, until done. Butter slices of toast and pour the stewed kidneys over, gravy and all. Or put a small onion, or two heaping tablespoons chopped onion, in frying pan with one heaping tablespoon butter and set over fire where butter will simply melt. Cut kidneys into pieces one-half inch square, put in pan and fry very quickly about five minutes, add heaping tablespoon flour and stir till flour browns, then pour in a pint boiling water and half a cup tomato catsup, or two tablespoons any good table sauce, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, stir until all are smoothly blended, let them cook ten minutes, and serve the dish at once, garnished with croutons. If the fire is hot tne kidney ought to be cooked in twenty minutes ; it is not necessary to parboil kidney, or to cook it for a long time, and the more quickly it is cooked the more tender it will be ; the kidney should be quite brown before the flour is put with it, then the gravy will be brown. Kidney Ragout. — Take two beef kidneys, nicely washed and well salted ; cut into bits of half an inch each, dredge or roll in flour, then drop in hot lard and cook until brown. Scald two quarts tomatoes and stew in their OAvn liquor half an hour. When kidneys are well browned put them in stewpan with tomatoes, add an onion and a half, finely chopped, cayenne pepper to taste, and a little parsley. Simmer two hours over slow fire ; should the stew be too thick a cup hot water may be added. Serve hot, with a dish of -i92 MEATS. boiled rice. In winter canned tomatoes may be used. A delicious dish is made by substituting mushrooms for the tomatoes, and pre- paring in same Avay, except that the mushrooms are added to the kid- neys without being first stewed, and the ragout requires simmering,' another hour. Broiled Ox-tails. — Joint and cut two tails into convenient- sized pieces and put in a saucepan with a pint and a half stock, or boiling water, with seasoning of salt and cayenne, and if liked a bunch savory herbs. Simhier gently about two and one-half hours : then take out, drain and let them 'cool. Dip into beaten egg and bread-crumbs and broil or fry in hot fat until a rich brown on both sides ; or theymay be browned in buttered pan in quick oven. Serve with a rich gravy made from liquor in which they were stewed, or any sauce preferred. Steioed Ox-tails. — Cut two ox-tails into pieces about four inches long; cut a large onion, half carrot, three slices turnip and two stalks celery in small pieces and fry in three tablespoons hot butter until beginning to brown, then stir in two tablespoons tlour ; cook two or three minutes, put in the tails, season vrith salt and pepper, add pint and a half stock or water and simmer gently about three hours. Serve hot with the gravy strained over. Or more of the vegetables may be used, with addition of potatoes, putting tur- nips and carrots in after meat has cooked an hour, and potatoes twenty minutes before done. The onion may be chopped and fried first as above. Serve with vegetables heaped in center of dish with tails round them and the gravy poured over all. Or divide two ox-tails at the joints, wash and put in stewpan with water to cover and set over the fire. When water boils, skim and add an onion cut into rings, three cloves, blade of mace, quarter teaspoon each whole black pepper and allspice, halfteaspoon salt and bunch savory herbs. Cover closely and simmer gently until tails are tender, about two and a half hours. Take them out, add thickenine of butter and flour and boil fifteen minutes. Strain through sieve into saucepan, put in tails, add tablespoon each lemon juice and catsup, boil up once and serve. Garnish with croutons or bits of toasted bread. Beef Palates. — Simmer the palates in water several hours, till they will peel ; then cut into slices, or leave them whole, as preferred, and stew in a rich gravy till quite tender. Before serving, season with cayenne, salt and catsup. If the gravy is wanted thick, add butter and flour and boil up. If to be served white, boil the palates in milk till tender and add cream, butter, flour and a little pounded mace, stew a few moments and serve. Baked Tongue. — Parboil a fresh tongue in water until done enough to peel. Then make a sauce by stewing together about twenty minutes a dozen ripe tomatoes and a large onion,seasoned with pepper and salt MEATS. 493 Put the tongue in baking pan, pour the sauce over and bake a nice brown. For Baked Spiced Tongue, wash a spiced tongue (for which 6ee recipes in Cutting and Curing Meats) put it in small pan just large enough to hold it, place pieces of butter on it, and cover with a com- mon crust. Bake in slow oven until so tender that a straw will penetrate it ; take off skin, fasten it down to a board by running a fork through the root and another through the tip, at the same time istraightening and putting it into shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, which is generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of parsley. A boiled tongue can be trussed in same way. The tongues of beef, veal, sheep or lamb can all be cooked in same manner, as above, or as directed in any of the recipes that follow, the three latter being, of course, the more delicate. Boiled Tongue. — Wash clean, put in pot with water to cover, a pint salt, and a small pod of red pepper seasons it nicely; if the water boils away, add more so as to keep the tongue nearly covered until done ; boil until it can be pierced easily with a fork, take out, and if needed for present use, trim off the fleshy bits near the roots, take off skin and set away to cool ; if to be kept some days, do not peel until wanted for table, audit will be much more juicy if left till cool in the water in which it was boiled. A nice flavor is given the tongue by boiling with it a bunch sweet herbs, dozen cloves, blade of mace, and a red pepper or teaspoon pepper-corns, and some add a little vinegar. The same amount of salt will do for three tongues if the pot is large enough to hold them, always remembering to keep sufficient water in the kettle to cover all while boiling. Soak salt tongue overnight, put on in cold water and cook in same way, omit- ting the salt. Or, after peeling, place the tongue in saucepan with one cup water, half cup vinegar, four tablespoons sugar, and cook till liquor is evaporated. Serve garnished with tufts of cauliflower or brussels sprouts. The tongue may be trussed while hot in the form of an arch, by putting it to press on its side between two dishes with a weight on top, and when cold trim it smooth, or with a small, sharp knife carve the surface so as to represent leaves. Or place it with the root end against the back of dresser, and put a strong fork in top of tongue ; this will make it assume an erect and nice appear- ance. Let it get quite cold, glaze it, ornament with a paper ruff and a vegetable flower, and garnish with aspic jelly. If hot serve with spinach. Boiled tongue is nice served with Polish Sauce made as follows : Skin the tongue while hot and put in another pan with slices of pork, an onion, sliced carrots, spices and a calf's foot. Stew till brown, dust with little flour, and thin the gravy or sauce with a cup vinegar. Boil a few moments, take out tongue, strain sauce and ado. 494 MEATS. two ounces each currants and whole almonds, blanched, and pour over the tongue. Another way of preparing is to half boil the tongue and then stew it in a sauce made of a little broth, flour, parsley, one small onion, small carrot, salt and pepper and one can tomatoes, cooked and strained. Dish the tongue and strain the sauce over it. Or pour over the tongue a sauce made of a can of tomatoes half boiled down, salted, and thickened with a tablespoon butter and teaspoon flour rubbed together. Fried Tongue is very nice ; first boil, then cut into slices and fry in hot butter with n lit- tle minced onion, and serve with a Pickle Sauce made as follows : Put a teaspoon flour in pan in which tongue was fried and when brown add cup hot winter; strain, season wdth salt and pepper and add a tablespoon any chopped pickles — piccalilli is best, but pickled cucumbers may be used by chopping and mixing with a little mus- tard. Soak the slices of tongue in this till ready to serve, when arrange on a platter overlapping one another and pour the sauce over. Or braise the slices of tongue and serve with a little spinach on each, or with a mayonnaise or tartare sauce. Braised Tongue. — "Wash a fresh beef tongue, and with a truss- ing needle run a strong twine through the roots and end of it, draw- ing tightl)'' enough to have the end meet the roots, and tie firmly. Cover with boiling water, and boil gently two hours ; then take up and drain. Roll in flour and braise as Braised Beef. When it has been cooking an hour and a half add the juice of half a k-mon to the gravy. When done, take up, melt two tablespoons glaze and pour over the tongue, and place in the heater until the gravy is made. Mix one tablespoon corn-starch with a little cold water, and stir into the boiling gravy, of which there should be one pint. Boil one minute, then strain, and pour around the tongue. Garnish with parsley, and serve. Another nice dish is made bv braising an ox tongue, then cut into thick slices, cover them with slices of bacon sprinkled with chopped herbs ; wrap carefullj'' in oiled sheets of paper so that no gravy may escape, and broil. They will be done in a few moments. Pickled Tongue. — Procure ten small tongues, wash in cold water and put to cook in boiling Avater, Avith a sliced lemon, table- spoon salt and teaspoon whole cloves and pepper-corns : keep cov- ered with boiling water, and boil gentlv until tender, which will l)e in half or three-quarters of an hour. When tongues are done take them up; trim them, remove the skin and pack in gla.^s jars, with a tablespoon each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and a blade of mace ; cover with cold vinegar, and let stand overnight before using, or longer if desired. In cool weather they will keep several weeks if kept closely covered. Any tongue may be pickled same. The re- mains of pickled tongues are very nice chopped, placed in a pan and pressed, when they will turn out resembling collared meat. A little MEATS 495 thick jelly may be poured into the pan with them. Slices of cold tongue may be warmed in any kind of savory sauce and laid in a pile in center of a dish, the sauce being poured over them. Potted Tongue. — Boil tongue three hours, if a beef's tongue, or until tender. Dip into cold water and peel off the skin ; mince fine and pound to a paste. To each pint paste add tablespoon butter, teaspoon mixed mustard, ground spices to taste, half mace, the rest cloves, nutmeg and cayenne, and a little salt. Pound all together, and place closely in a small jar, pouring melted butter on top. Some set in oven in pan of hot water and bake half an hour, then cover with the butter, tie down and put in cold place. For Tongue Toast, make thin slices of toast, shape and spread thinly with butter, then with a layer of potted tongue and set in oven with door open a fcAV minutes. Scalloped Tongue. — For each pint cold chopped tongue (not too fine) take one cup bread-crumbs, half cup stock, three table- spoons butter and seasoning of one teaspoon each salt, chopped parsley and capers and a tablespoon onion juice. Butter baking dish and cover bottom with crumbs, put in the tongue with the seasonings, except the onion juice, which is mixed with the stock and poured over ; put in some of the butter, cover with the remain- der of the bread-crumbs, put bits of butter over, bake about twenty minutes and serve hot. Steioed Tongue. — Take six tongues of either sheep or lambs, three heaping tablespoons butter, one large onion, two slices carrot, three slices white turnip, three tablespoons flour, one of salt, a little pepper, one quart stock or Avater and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil the tongues an hour and a half in clear water ; then take up, cover with cold water, and draw off skins. Put the butter, onion, turnip and carrot in the stewpan, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes; then add the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while. Stir the stock into this, and when it boils, add the tongue, salt, pep- per and herbs. Simmer gently two hours. Place the tongues in center of dish, arrange vegetables around them and strain the gravy over all. Garnish with parsley, or with fried bread cut in diamonds or other fancy shapes. Or after skinning the tongues place a j^late and weight on them to flatten them, glaze them, if liked, arrange in a circle around a dish of spinach or mashed potato, or serve Avith a Mayonnaise or tartare sauce in center. Or the tongues may first be braised with a little salt pork, an onion, parsley and whole pep- pers, then stewed until tender and served as above. If a beef tongue is cooked thus, serve with spinach as a border. Season the spinach with lemon juice, a little of the tongue stock, cayenne pepper, salt and butter. For Larded Tongue, lard the tongue with square fillets of bacon, Avhich have been dredged with chopped parsley, salt, pepper and a little allspice ; put it in saucepan on a bed of vegetables 496 MEATS. with slices of fat pork ; add lialf pint water or broth and two table- spoons vinegar ; set on a moderate fire and simmer about five hours, keeping well covered. Put the tongue on a dish and strain the sauce over it. Fillets of Tongue. — Cut cold boiled tongue in fillets or pieces about four inches long, two wide, and half an inch thick. Dip in melted butter and roll in flour. For eight pieces ))ut two table- spoons butter in frying-pan, and when very hot put in the tongue, brown on both sides, but do not allow to burn. Take up, add table- spoon more butter and teaspoon flour, stir till a ri'di brown, and add cup stock, half teaspoon parsley and tablespoon lemon juice. Boil up once and pour over the tongue, which should be dished on thin strips of toast. Garnish with ])arsley and serve. A tablespoon chopped pickles or capers may be stirred through the sauce just be- fore serving, if liked. Tongue in Jelly. — Boil and skin either a fresh or salt tongue ; when cold trim ofi^ the roots. Have one and a fourth quarts aspic jelly in liquid state. Cover bottom of two-quart mold about an inch deep with it, and let harden. Cut out leaves from cooked beets with a fancy vegetable cutter, and garnish bottom of mold with them ; gently pour in three tablespoons jelly, to set the beets. When hard, add jelly enough to cover the vegetables, and let the whole get very hard. Then put in the tongue, and about half a cup jelly, which should ^^^^^^^ be allowed to harden, and so keep the meat in Targe Mold. placc wlicu the remainder is added. Pour in the remainder of the jelly and set away to harden. When ready to serve, dip the mould for a few moments in pan of warm water, and gently turn on to a dish. Rings of the white of boiled eggs may be used with or in place of the cooked beets. Garnish with pickles and parsley ; pickled beet is especially nice. For Lamha^ Tongues iii Jelly, prepare the same as beef tongues. Three or four molds, each holding a little less than a pint, will make enough for a small com- ]jany, one tongue being put in each mold. The tongues can all l)e put on the same dish, i)r on two, if table is long. Or boil a beef's tongue and let it get cold. For the jelly mix pint lifjuor in which tongue was boiled with cup brown veal gravy, three tablespoons vinegar, one of sugar and one of Caramel Coloring ; add two ounces gelatine dissolved in half pint water, mix well, pour over all a pint boiling water and strain through flannel. Let the jelly cool until it begins to thicken, then cut tho tongue in slices as for table, put a little jelly in bottom of wet mold, then a layer of tongue, more jelly and so on until mold is full, and finish as above; serve garnished with sprigs of celery or nasturtium flowers. Balied Tripe. — When buying tripe get the honey-combed ; if prepared at home observe directions in Cutting and Curing Meats. MEATS. 497 Take two pounds boiled tripe cut in small, irregular pieces, and put a layer, a half inch deep, in bottom of deep dish. Sprinkle over this a layer of bread-crumbs and a little pepper and salt, and continue alternating layers of tripe, seasoning, and bread-crumbs until the dish is full, leaving a layer bread-crumbs on top. Add two well- beaten eggs to half pint liquor in which tripe w^as boiled, stir togeth- er and pour the mixture over the tripe and bread-crumbs in dish. Place in moderate oven and bake half an hour. Serve in dish in which it is baked. Broiled T)n2)c. — Cut honey-combed tripe into pieces of three or four inches wide ; rub a little oil or melted butter over them, roll in flour, and broil over a charcoal or wood fire, squeeze a little lemon juice over each piece and serve. Never broil tripe over a hard-coal fire, the gasses arising from the coal spoil the flavor of the tripe, making it indigestible and unpalatable. Fricanseed Tripe. — Cut the tripe into square pieces and put in stewpan with a blade of mace, bouquet of herbs, an onion quartered, salt and cayenne. Cover with water and a little vinegar and stew one hour. Strain the sauce and put tripe and sauce in a clean saucepan, Avith a tablespoon of butter rolled in flour, a gill cream and tablespoon chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, squeeze in juice of a lemon, and serve. Or cut in narrow strips, add water or milk, tablespoon butter mixed with one of flour, season with pepper and a little salt, simmer slowl^v for some time, and serve hot garnished with parsley. Fried Tripe. — Cut in square pieces, dredge with flour, or dip in egg and cracker crumbs and fry in hot butter, or other fat, until a delicate brown on both sides ; lay it on a dish, add vinegar to the gravy, and pour over the tripe ; or the vinegar may be omitted, and the gravy added, or the tripe ma} be served without vinegar or gravy. Or make a batter by mixing gradually one cup flour with one of sweet milk, adding a well-beaten egg and a little salt ; drain the tripe, dip in batter, and fry in hot drippings or lard. Pickled Tripe. — After the tripe has been thoroughly cleaned put in salt and Avater overnight. In the morning boil till tender, let cool, cut in small pieces and lay in stone jar. On the top put some allspice and bay leaves, cover wdtli vinegar, and set in cool place till wanted. Soused Tripe. — Place in a stone jar in layers, seasoning every layer with pepper and salt, and pour over boiling vinegar, in which, if desired, a few whole cloves, a sprinkle of mace, and a stick of cinnamon have been boiled; or cover with the jelly or liquor in which the tripe was boile^ When wanted for table, take out of jar, scrape off the liquid, and either broil, fricassee, fry in batter, or fry plainly. 498 MEATS. Stewed Tinpe. — Carefully clean two pounds tripe, cut in smiU strips of even size, wash in cold water, and dry in a clean towel ; chop a medium-sized clove of garlic very tine, put it over the fire in a gill of good salad oil, and when the oil begins to smoke, put in the tripe and brown it ; while the tripe is browning, peel and slice a quart of tomatoes, and when it is brown add them to it ; season to taste with salt and red pepper, cover closely, and cook gently two hours. Serve hot. Butter n)ay be substituted for the oil, and a chopped onion for the garlic. The addition of a tablespoon cliopped parsle}' improves it for some. This is also called Creoled Tripe. Y ox Tripe Lyon- naise, cut one pound cooked tripe in small pieces, brown two table- spooiis butter, add tablespoon each chopped onion and lemon juice, with salt and pepper to taste, and when the whole is brown, put in the pieces of tri})e. Cook five minutes and serve on neatly shaped slices of toast. For Tripe loith Onion Sauce, cut two pounds boiled tripe into small, irregular pieces ; put in a stewpan, cover with milk and stew over slow fire half an hour. Boil an onion half an hour, take out, drain well and chop fine. When the tripe is done stir in chopped onion, season well with butter, pepper and salt, adding a little thickening of flour if liked, and serve at once. Braised Lamh. — Remove bones from breast, season with salt and pepper, then roll up and tie with twine and cook as in Braised Beef. To serve remove the twine, skim fat from gravy, boil up strain and pour over the meat, or serve with tomato or bechamel sauce. For Braised Loin of Lamh., bone the loin and line bottom of stewpan just large enough to hold it with a few thin slices of bacon, add vegetables and braise as above. When done take up the meat, dry it and place where it Avill keep hot. Strain and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat and serve it on stewed pease, or spinach or stewed cucumbers. Braised Shoulder of LMinh is nice if first larded with strips of fat bacon, highly seasoned with peper, salt and chopped parsley (see directions for larding) ; then roll the meat round, tie it up and put in stewpan with a quarter pound butter, over slow fire, stirring occasionally until a light golden color ; pour in a quart water or broth, add two dozen small onions and a bunch of parsley, and simmer very slowly until the onions are quite tender; take up the meat, pull oif the string, and place it on a dish with the onions round ; take the parsley out. carefully skim off all fat. and boil the liquor until a thinnish glaze, which pour over the meat and serve. ^Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before sending to table, if liked. The cavity from which the bone is re- moved may be filled with force-meat, if preferred, instead of rolling and binding the meat. Braised Mutton is cooked as any of the above. ^ Grilled Lamh. — Boil the loin half an hour, then take out and score, brush over with beaten yolks of eggs and sprinkle well with MEATS. ' 499 bread-crumbs seasoned with chopped parsley ; put in dripping-pan and place in oven until brown ; serve hot with melted butter and lemon pickle, or tomato sauce, or cold with the sauce. A breast may be done same, and Grilled Mutton is also prepared in same manner. Roast Lamh. — The loin, forequarter and leg are all very nice roasted. Prepare and roast as directed m Roasted Meats, a medium sized forequarter requiring about two hours. Lamb must be basted constantly and thoroughly cooked without being dried up. Some brush clarified butterover the joint, then sprinkle with bread-orumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and a little minced parsley, and cover with slices of bacon, held in place by skewers. When nearly done remove bacon and baste with beaten yolk of egg mixed with gravy, sprinkle over more crumbs and let brown. If liked, squeeze juice of a lemon over and serve with mint sauce. For a nice Roast Leg of Lainh^ run a sharp, thin-bladed knife between the skin and flesh where the leg is thickest in such a manner as to form a pouch, and into this put the flesh of a small red herring, and a small clove of garlic, highly seasoned with pepper and pounded to a paste, forcing it as far as possible under the skin, then roast as in general directions Or the bone may be removed and the cavity filled with a common veal stuffing or any bread dressing or force-meat liked, Tomatoes are sometimes baked in the pan with lamb and served with it. A Roast Saddle of Lamh is a very dainty dish for a small party. Put in dripping-pan, Avith a few small pieces .of butter on the meat, and baste occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat ; season with salt and pep- per and dredge a little flour over it a few minutes before taking from the oven. Serve with currant jelly, and send to table with early vegetables. A mild mint sauce may be served with the joint Pota- to balls, seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, single-breaded and fried, make a nice garnish for the roast, surrounding with them, with a drawn butter sauce poured over the meat. Pease, spinach and cauliflower are served with roast lamb, also fresh salads. Another nice roast is called Carionade of Lamb. For this select a loin weighing three pounds or more and have butcher skin and take :"tut bone, keeping bone for use in pan or to boil for broth. Make h force-meat of a slice of bread soaked in cold water and squeezed dry, level teaspoon any powdered sweet herb, thyme, mar]oram or f^um- mer savory, saltspoon salt, pinch of pepper, tablespoon butter, %r raw egg, and a little chopped onion if liked ; mix well together and place in bone cavity and sew up. Roast in Dutch oven or bake in ordinary oven. When brown on one side turn to brown the other, then season, dredge with dry flour and baste every ten or fifteen minutes. For gravy, mix a tablespoon flour with drippings in pan, let brown and turn in slowly a pint water, seasoning to taste. Some cooks serve roast lamb rather rare, or well done on the outside and pink within ; it should be served steaming hot with a caper, pickle. 500 MEATS. or mint sauce. If carved through the center it may be nicely served again next day by stuffing the cut-out space with boiled mashed potatoes, smoothing evenly around, and placing long enough in oven to become thoroughly hot. Lamb is sometimes roastexi entirely whole, simply skinned, the entrails removed and feet cut off. It shoulcl be not more than six weeks or two months old, when the bones cut like gristle and the meat is singularly delicate. It may be stufl'ed with bread dressing and sweet herbs and served with bread sauce, but is more frequently eaten with lemon juice. \\'lien the lamb is older, to roast whole, bone from the neck to the shoulders, skewer the legs to the body, and cover with slices of bacon, which may be tied or skewered on, but must be removed when meat is nearly done that it may be basted and browned uieely. Roast Mutton may be prepared in any of above ways. Stewed Larrib. — Cut the neck or breast in pieces and put it in a stewpan with salt pork or bacon sliced thin, and enough water or stock to cover ; cover closely and stew until meat is tender, then skim well, add a quart green shelled peas, and more hot water or stock if necessary ; cover till peas are tender, then add a bit of but- ter rolled in flour, and pepper to taste ; sinnner a few minutes and serve. For another nice ISiew laiih Green Peas-, leave the breast of lamb whole, simply removing the skin ; put the breast in pan of hot water and leave five minutes, line bottom of stewpan with thin slices of bacon, put in the lamb and lay on it a lemon cut in slices, to keep meat white and make it tender ; cover with one or two slices of bacon, add a half pint white stock, an onion and a bunch savory herbs. Stew gentfy over slow fire until tender, and serve on a bed of green peas, cooked separately. The lamb may be glazed and spinach substituted for peas if preferred, or it may be served on a bed of stewed mushrooms. Or first fry either the breast or leg in butter or drippings until a nice brown, and add v/ater or stock to cover with seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer three-quarters of an hour and add ahalf peck green peas. Cook until peas are done, dust in a very little flour and serve hot with peas. as a border. For Stewed Lamb with Tomatoes, saw the breast or brisket lengthwise through the bones ; then skin, divide in pieces, wash and put to stew in water or broth to cover, cut carrots, turnips and onions (enough to fill a cup) in dice, and boil in water separately ; pour off water when they are half done and put them in the stew Avith a cup cut tomatoes. Boil half an hour longer, thicken slightly if necessary, season with pepper and salt and last add a tablespoon choi)ped pars- ley. In dishing up take up two pieces of meat for each dish and place in middle of individual flat platter with vegetables and sauce or gravy from stew at each end. Steioed Lamb icith As- paragus is also nice. Remove skin and part of fat from the breast or shoulder and cut it into neat ))ieces ; dredge a little flour over and place in stewpan with tablespoon butter and fry till nicely browned ; MEATS. 501 then cover with warm water, add a bunch parsley, two button onions and simmer until meat is done ; skim off fat, take out onions and parsley, mince the latter finely, return it to the gravy with a pint of of boiled asparagus tops, add salt and pepper, simmer a few minutes longer and serve. Canned asparagus may be used. A plain stew of lamb is nice, first fried as above, cooked without vegetables, and served Vvith its own gravy poured over, flavored with four tablespoons tomato catsup, or served with mint sauce. When the leg or shoul- der is stewed the bone may be removed and the cavity stuffed witli any force-meat preferred. The loin may be stewed whole or in steaks ; when stewed whole secure the flap with a skewer. Stewed Mutton is prepared in any of above ways. Larrib Chops. — Trim off the fat from a loin of lamb, cut into chops about three-fouiths inch in thickness, and for Broiled Lanib Chops proceed as directed in Broiled Meats, remembering that they require little cooking and must be done very quickly. Season with pepper and ealt and serve immediately, very hot, garnished with crisped parsley ; or dish them in a circle round green pease or a mound of mashed po- tatoes. Asparagus, spinach, cauliflower and beans are also served with lamb or mutton chops, and stuffed baked tomatoes are nice with them. "When chops are cut from the loin as above,Kome like to have the kidney L^i^cho^""'^' retained in its place. When chops are made from breast the red bone at the edge should be cut oft", and the breast parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting between every second or third bone. Many prefer to single-bread lamb chops before broiling, and after dipping in egg some season v/ith pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley. For Fried Lamb Chops, choose cutlets or chops about half an inch thick and fry in a mixture of butter and currant jelly, half and half — two tablespoons of each to four cutlets — turning to brown both sides. Season highly with salt and pepper and serve on hot platter with the gravy from pan poured over. Or fry plainly by putting in hot frying-pan, turning quickly to brown both sides and keep in the juices, then fry until done. Season just before taking up and serve on hot dish with a gravy made in pan, flavored with mushroom or tomato catsup, poured over. Or double-bread them and fry, though some only single-bread cutlets, adding to the sifted crumbs a seasoning of pepper and salt and a little chopped parsley or onion and grated lemon peel and pounded mace, if liked. Or first sear them cjuickly on each side in frying-pan, then single-bread and fry or broil. They may be fried in little butter or drippings, but are much nicer if dropped into hot fat. Some do not use egg in breading cut- lets but dip them into melted butter or kettle of fat, and roll in crumbs, then fry as Fritters. Dish as Broiled Chops, and serve with clear red currant jelly or mushroom, onion or tomato sauce. Fried toma- 502 ORNAMENTAL ICES. toes (see Vegetables) are nice with cutlets. Serve tomatoes in cen- ter of dish with cutlets in circle round, or arranged at either end. Or after the chops have been plainly fried, dip them up to the bones in stiff white sauce well flavored with mushrooms and set in cool place or on ice until the sauce hardens ; then single-bread them and fr}' in hot fat. Or mix six tablespoons g)ated Parmesan cheese with two tablespoons white sauce, thoroughly coat the chops with this, first fried plainly as above, then double-egg-bread them, and drop in hot fat until a nice golden brown. Dish in a circle and garnish with fried parsley. Mutton Cutlets and Chops are cooked after any of above methods. Serve in a circle with stewed pease in center. Lairib Fricassee. — Cut a breast of lamb into pieces about an inch and a half square ; season with salt and pepper and put in sauce- pan with a quartered onion, three cloves, a bay-leaf, and three table- spoons butter. Cover closely, and steam gently half an hour, shak- ing occasionally to prevent sticking. Add a pint boiling water, cover closely and boil gently one hour; then strain the sauce and thicken with a tablespoon of flour, mixed smooth with a little cold water, boil a moment longer and serve. A tablespoon very small capers may be added before serving. Boiled Mutton. — Mutton can be cooked like any of the pre- ceeding recipes for lamb, and the latter can also be cooked like any of the following recipes for mutton. The leg and shoulder are most used for boiling. To prepare Boiled Lerj of Mutton cut off the shank bone, trim the knuckle, wash Avell and be sure to remove the thin outside skin. Tlie oil of the Avool penetrates through the porea of the skin, and from this comes that strong, woolly taste, rendering mutton so objectionable. Then, if wanted plainly boiled, cook as directed in Boiled Meats, letting the water boil down to gravy. A leg weighing eight or nine pounds will cook in an hour and a quar- ter, if wanted very rare, allowiiig live minutes for every additional pound. Two hours or more will be required to cook it well done. Serve with caper, cucumber or mint sauce, or currant jelly. Some first soak the leg an hour or two in salted water, then wipe dry. wrap the flank nicely round, securing it witli skewers, and boil in a floured cloth. Th.e greatest care must be exercised that the mutton does not cook too rapidly after first plunging in boiling water, after which it must only simmer gently till done. Carrots and mashed turnips may be served with this dish, and may be boiled with the meat. Very young turnips may be boiled whole and used as a garnish. Mashed potatoes and greens arc also served Avith it and boiled rice or hominy are liked with it by some. Tlie liquor the joint is boiled in should be made into soup. The leg may be boned and stuffed with any dressing preferred, then cooked as above. Or parboil some nice plump oysters, take off beards and add to them some parsley, minced onion, and sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and MEATS. 603 the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Mix all together, and cat five or six holes in fleshy part of a leg of mutton, and put in the mixture. Tie in a cloth and boil as above, or braise it and serve with any sauce liked. Boiled Shoulder of Mutton, considered by many superior to the leg, may be cooked after any of the above methods. For Boiled Breast of Mutton, cut all superfluous fat from the breast, bone it, sprinkle over a layer of bread-crumbs, minced herbs and seasoning ; roll, bind firmly with tape, and cook and serve as above, removing tape when dished. Boiled Neck of Mutton is a very good dish when carefully prepared, though gener- ally used for soup. It may be plainly boiled with carrots and tur- nips and garnished with them, or boil slowly until tender, then take out, cover with sifted bread-crumbs, well seasoned and moistened with milk and the yolk of an egg, flavored with finely chopped sweet herbs, and set in oven to brown nicelv. Serve with either of above sauces and accompaniments. The breast may be dressed in same manner, adding chopped mushrooms to dressing if liked. Boiled Lamb is prepared in same way, generally serving with mint sauce. Boned Mutton. — Cut off all fat from leg of mutton, take the bone out carefully, and preserve the skin whole ; take out meat and mince it fine, and mix with it about one pound minced fat bacon and some parsley; season the whole well with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of onions chopped fine ; then put meat into skin and sew it up neatly on under side ; tie it up in a cloth and put it into stewi)an with two or three slices of veal, some sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon ; let it stew for three or four hours, and drain the liquor through a fine sieve ; when reduced to a glaze, cover the mutton with it and serve upon a bed of rice. Curried Mutton. — Put breast of mutton in stewpan with tAvo quarts water, season with salt and pepper, and simmer slowly an hour and a half. Cut an onion in slices and brown it nicely in but- ter, add teaspoon curry powder and little salt. Take meat out of broth, stir the curry through, put the meat back, and stew an hour longer. Dish, and pour gravy over. If it is not thick enough, thicken with browned flour and let it boil a minute before putting it over meat. Curried Lamb is prepared same way. Haricot Mutton. — Trim off some of the fat from four pounds of the middle or best end of the neck, cut into rather thin chops, and put in frying pan with the fat trimmings. Fry pale brown, but do not cook enough for eating. Cut three carrots and three turnips into dice, tln-ee onions into slices, and slightly fry them in fat mut- ton was browned in, but do not color them. Lay the mutton in bot- tom of stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour over boiling water to just cover. Give one boil, skim well, and then simmer gently until meat is tender. Skim ofl" every particle of fat, add a seasoning of 504 MEATS. pepper and salt, and a little catsup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the day before wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily removed when gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended to, as it is apt to be too rich and greasy if eaten tlie same day it is made. Serve in rather deep dish. Or, cut mutton into square pieces, and fry a nice brown ; drerjge over a little flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Put into a stewpan, moisten with boiling water and add an onion, stuck with three cloves, a blade of mace and bunch sweet herl)s. simmer gently till rneat is nearly done, skim oifall fat, and then add carrots and' tur- nips, previously cut in dice and fried in a little sugar to color them. Let the whole simmer again ten minutes, take out the onion and bunch of herbs, and serve. Roast Mutton. — The leg. saddle, loin and shoulder are the best pieces for roasting. Haw the butcher trim nicely, prepare as for Boiled Mutton, and to roast ])lainly follow directions given in Roast- ed Meats. Some cover the joint with buttered paper, Avhich is taken off about twenty minutes before roast is done to baste, dredge and brown the meat. Serve with its oAvn gravy and red currant jelly and mashed potatoes, or with onion sauce or stewed onions. It there is a largo flap to loin })ut in some of the dressing and skewer securely, then bake and serve as above. Some roast a Saddle of Mutton as Veni- son, in a coarse paste, taking off to baste and brown a few minutes be- fore done. Or roast plainly as above, (larnish with little pile./ of potato balls and tufts of lettuce or any green leaves. Some cooks roast the neck, cutting the bones off short and trimming nicely. For Roast Leg of Mutton, take the flank off, but leave all the fat, cut out the bone, stuff" with a rich force-meat, lard the top and sides with bacon, and put it in a pan Avith a little water, some chopped onion and cel- ery cut small, a gill of mushroom catsup and a teaspoon curr}' pow- der ; roast and serve as above Avith the gravy, garnished with force- meat balls, fried. For Roast Shoulder of Mutton, haxQ ihe shoul- der boned and fill cavity with a nice bread dressing or force-meat. Then roll, tie loosely, giving the dressing room to swell, place in oven in pan with little butter, baste often, turn occasionally to brown evenly and serve with its own grav}' and any of the above garnishes. To finish any roast very handsomely, brush over with glaze, following directions given for Glaze in Gravies. Rolled Mutton. — Cover the meat with cold water and when it begins to boil draw to back of stove and simmer three hours. Then take up, bone it and spread with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, pars- ley, thyme, chopped suet, salt and pepper ; double or roll it, sKew- Saddle of Mutton. MEATS. 505 ering to keep in place, coat thickly with beaten egg and bread- crumbs and bake on a trivet in moderate oven, basting often with drippings or butter, until nicely browned. Serve on a bed of spin- ach or stewed onions. Equal to most tender joint of lamb. Stewed Mutton. — The breast, neck and shoulder pieces are most used for stewing. For an Irish Stew procure three pounds neck of mutton and cut in neat pieces. Put about half the fat in stewpan, with four sliced onions, and stir for eight or ten minutes over a hot fire ; then put in the meat, which sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper. Stir ten minutes, add two quarts boiling water, and simmer one hour; then add six large potatoes, peeled, and cut in quarters, simmer an hour longer, and serve. Cook dumplings with this dish, if liked. They are a great addition to all kinds of stews and ragouts. Or the meat may be cut into small pieces and put in stewpan in layers with the sliced onions and potatoes, with salt and pepper sprinkled betM'een the layers, and vegetables on top. Cover closely and stew gently an hour or more, being careful that it does not burn. For Stewed Breast of Mutton inke a rather lean breast cut in Eieces about two inches square put into stewpan with a little fat or utter, and fry a nice brown ; then dredge in a little flour, slice two onions, and put with bunch of herbs in the stewpan ; pour in sufficient water to just cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until mutton is tender. Take out meat, strain and skim off' all fat from gravj', and put both meat and gravy back in stewpan ; add about a quart j'^oung green pease, and let boil gently until done. Two or three slices of bacon stewed with the mutton give additional flavor ; and to ensure the pease being a beautiful green color,they may be boiled in v/ater separately, and added to the stew at the moment of serving. String beans or boiled macaroni may be substituted for the pease. For Stewed Shoulder of Mt(tt072, first parboil, then put it in stewpan with two quarts mutton gravy, quarter pound rice, teaspoon mush- room powder, with a little pounded mace, and stew till the rice is tender ; take up mutton and keep hot ; add to the rice half pint cream and piece of butter rolled in flour ; stir it well round the pan, and boil a few minutes ; lay mutton in dish, and pour the rice over it. For Stewed Loin of jiluttoii, remove the skin, bone and roll it, and stew with a little broth or water, adding any vegetables or seasoning liked. Some sprinkle the loin with a mixture of half tea- spoon pepper, quarter teaspoon each ground allspice, mace and nut- meg and six cloves, and let it stand a day then roll ; or it may be spread with a veal or other force-meat, then rolled. Some prefer to half bake it in the oven, then take out and finish cooking in stewpan in its own gravy. Flavor with two tablespoons mushroom catsup and serve with red currant jelly. Stewed Leg of Mutton is a dish liked by many. Procure a tender leg, take off outside fat and skin and lard leg with pieces of fat pork. Put the leg in saucepan with some small onions and two yellow turnips, sliced, one bay leaf, a 506 MEATS. calf's foot cut in two, and a pint good beef broth ; let all cook to- gether until gravy will jelly. In another saucepan put two table- spoons beef drippings, brown the stewed onions and turnips in tliis, thicken with flour, and add rest of mutton broth. Put in a little vinegar and lemon peel, and let all cook well ; strain through a sieve ; cut six pickled cucumbers through sauce and cook. Put the meat in sauce and cook all together a few moments. Pour the gravy over the meat and serve hot. Mutton Chops. — The best chops are taken from the loin, but those from the ribs are also excellent. Cuts from the fillet, the cen- ter cut of the hind leg, are called cutlets or steaks, while those from the shoulder are known as shoulder steaks. All may be prepared and cooked as follows; Take off the skin and trim'them neatly, removing a part of the fat, and broil as directed in Broiled Meats, either plainly or breaded. If on a gridiron or flat broiler must be turned often. The bread-crumbs should be salted and peppered and may be seasoned with any chopped or powdered herbs liked; a sprinkling of grated lemon peel or powdered mace gives a flavor liked by many. Serve with a bit of _ butter on each, neatly arranged in a circle around Mutton Chops. _ a mound of mashed potatoes, with currant jell}', or mushroom, onion or tomato sauce. Some first half fry or stow the chops, with any seasoning liked, and when cool bread them and finish by broiling, either plainly, or by wrapping them in buttered paper. They are very nice fried with minced herbs and mushrooms, then broiled. Serve with a tablespoon red currant jelly, mushroom catsup or any suitable sauce on each. Instead of broiling after covering with the seasoning and bread-crumbs, when chops are first half fried, some put them in the buttered paper and finish by setting in the oven in dripping pan until done. Masked Mutton (Jhops. — Trim off" all the fat from five chops from the back rib and leave a half inch of the bone of each bare at the top. Put in frying-pan and slice over them a carrot, turnip, onion and some celery, sprinkling with pepper and salt. Pour over all a gill of stock and cook twenty minutes over slow fire, turning the cutlets that tbey may cook through evenly. While cooking, rub a pint mashed potato through a sieve and put in a saucepan, drop in yolks of two eggs, and stir over the fire until M-ell mixed. When chops are ready, roll each in potatoes so prepared and flattened with a knife upon a mixing-board to a quarter of an inch thick, lea^^ng the bone bare as a handle. Place all upon a lightly greased baking- tin, brush over with a little milk or egg, and brown in very quick oven. While the}' are browning, heat a tablespoon butter, and add half tablespoon flour; when smooth add one and one-half gills cold water and stir all until boiling. Add half tablespoon each catsup, Worcestershire sauce and six drops caramel and cook two minutes. MEATS. 507 Arrange them in a circle upon a hot platter, with a pint boiled green pease in center, and strain the brown sauce around the whole. In preparing the potato, a little flour should be sprinkled over the board to prevent sticking. If the oven should not be hot enough to brown the chops quichly^ hold a hot salamander or fire shovel over them, as leaving them long in the oven dries out the potatoes and so spoils the dish. Mutton Hot-pot. — Peel about two pounds potatoes, put in cold water and bring to boiling point, then take out and slice enough to cover bottom of good-sized vegetable dish ; cut one and a half pounds lean mutton into small pieces and roll each in a mixture of flour, pepper, salt and nutmeg, and put in dish in layers alternating with layers of potato until level with top of dish. Cut the potatoes left whole into halves and place over top, round sides up and brush over with melted butter, Pour a tablespoon catsup and half pint cold water in at side of dish and bake in moderate oven an hour and a half. Mutton Pie. — Cut two pounds boned neck or loin of mutton into steaks of same thickness, leaving very little fat, cut up two kid- neys and arrange neatly with meat in pie dish ; sprinkle two table- spoons chopped parsley oyer with pepper and salt ; pour in two cups stock, or water, and cover with a puff paste. Bake an hour and a half, or longer should the pie be very large, in rather hot oven. Another : Cut off two pounds from the leg and chop fine, first re- moving fat and skin ; add a slice or two of raw bacon or salt pork, chopped, season all well with pepper and salt and put in saucepan with a cup gravy and six ounces butter ; add three or four tender lettuce leaves cut small, a quart green pease, and an onion, chopped fine. Stir all over gentle fire until hot, then cover with good paste and bake slowly. Or leave off the paste and it may be cooked as a stew and served in walls of mashed potato. Yeah Pie made same wa3^ Or season mutton chops (those from the neck are best) high- ly with pepper and salt, and place in a dish in layers, with plenty of sliced apples, sweetened, and chopped onions ; cover with a good suet paste, and bake. When done pour out all the gravy at the side, take off the fat, add a spoonful mushroom catsup, then return gravy to pie. For a Mutton Pudding^ cut about two pounds of the chump end of loin of mutton into rather thin slices, and season with pepper and salt ; line the pudding-dish with paste ; lay in the meat, and nearly, but not quite, fill up with water; if the flavor is liked, add a little minced onion ; cover with paste, and bake as the pie. Or season mutton steaks with salt, pepper and a bit of onion ; put one layer of steak in the bottom of dish and pour a batter of potatoes, boiled, put through a colander and mixed with milk and egg, over them. Sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake. 608 MEATS. Mutton Rissoles. — Take three or four small slices of mutton and one of rather lean bacon, a tablespoon chopped onion, teaspoon chopped parsley, one-quarter as much thyme, cayenne pepper and salt. Chop all together very fine or pass through a sausage ma- chine, and roll into balls the size of walnuts ; dip each into beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs (not cracker dust) and fry a golden brown in hot fat. Pour over them a gravy made of stock thickened with browned flour, seasoned with pepper and salt and a teaspoon mush- room catsup. Mutton Scallops. — Mince dressed mutton with a very little fat, season lightly with ])epper and salt, and put into scallop-shells about half full. Fill up with potatoes, mashed witli a little milk and a very little butter ; smooth with a spoon, and brown in oven. Mutton an Court Bouillon. Procure a neatly trimmed leg of mutton and put in stewpan with boiling water to cover. Tie in a cloth an onion, a turnip, bunch of sweet herbs, four or five cloves and some whole allspice, and put in with mutton. Let boil up, skim carefally, cover and place where it will simmer three hours. Then stir in three tablespoons flour, mixed smooth in cup cold water, add tablespoon salt and pinch of cavenne and cook an hour longer. Meantime make a pint and a half veal or mutton force-meat, shape into small balls and fry brown, and boil six eggs hord. Wlien mut- ton is done take it up, skim fat from gravy and remove bag of seasoning. Set stewpan where it will boil and prepare thickening by stirring two tablespoons flour into two tablespoons butter made hot in frying-pan ; cook until dark brown, but do not scorch, and stir into the boiling liquid in stew-pan ; add more seasoning if liked. Chop whites and yolks of eggs separately; pour gravy over the lamb and garnish with the chopped eggs, putting the whites in a little mound, topping them with some of the yolks, placing remainder of yolks over the lamb; arrange the meat balls in groups around the dish, decorate with parsley and serve. Leg of Lamb may be pre- pared same. Mutton au Gratin. — Take a breast of mutton, cut ofFthc chine- bone down to gristle ; put in a stock pot or kettle with a little hot water and boil until tender, then take up to cool ; have readv some beaten eggs with a little butter and chopped mushrooms added and put all over the breast with pastry ])rush. then place in oven to brown. Serve with red currant jelly. A nice dish from breast of mutton is called Swiss Chops. Boil as above with two cloves stuck in a small onion, slices of carrot and turnip if liked and a bunch sweet herbs ; when tender enough to permit the bones to be drawn out easilv, take up, lay on a pan, put another, containing weights, on it, and press until cold; then cut in eight triangular pieces, about the size of small chop ; season with salt and pepper, double-bread them, and MEATS. 509 broil quickly or fry light brown in enough smoking hot fat to cover, and serve with a piquant sauce poured over. Mutton a la Venison.— Remove all rough fat from a leg of mut- ton, lay in a deep earthen dish, and rub into meat very thoroughly the following mixture : One tabkspoon salt, one each of celery seed, brown sugar, black pepper, made mustard, allspice, and sweet herbs mixed and powdered. After these have been rubbed into all parts of meat, pour over it slowly a teacup . j/^^^ good vinegar, cover tightly and set y^nK^^^ii^^ in a cool place for four or iive days, ^S^mi^i^'''^h^ turning and basting with liquid three — itii^ah'm>i v:vkx.:-s*/.w.w,:/w/,-:.i< or four times a day. To cook, place in a clean kettle a quart boiling wa- ter, in which have an inverted tin Leg of Muuon and Beans. pan or rack made for the purpose ; on it lay the meat just as taken out of the pickle ; cover kettle tightly, and stew four hours. Do not allow water to touch the meat. Add a cup hot water to the picklo, and baste the meat with it. When ready to serve, thicken the liquid in the kettle with flour, strain through a fine strainer, and serve the meat with it upon a bed of cooked beans, with a relish of currant jelly. Or do not place in pickle, but cook fresh as a Pot-roast of beef, adding a bay-leaf, cloves, pepper and salt, and some add an onion, sticking the cloves in it. Or' for Italian Steals let the fresh leg hang several days, 4;hon cut in slices, season all with pepper and salt, and fry in browned butter in saucepan, sprinkling over a little mace; dust in a little flour and stir in a half cup currant jelly; stir until jelly is melted, boil up once and serve. Another way of cook- ing leg of mutton cut in slices is called Mutton Birds. 'Spread a lightly seasoned force-meat over the slices, roll up and fasten with skewers and brown in hot beef drippings ; then put in stewpan, cov- er with water and stew until tender, serving with a gravy poured over made by thickening the liquor with browned flour, jflavoring with two tablespoons tomato catsup. Fillet of Mutton. — Choose a very large leg ; cut from four to five inches in thickness from large end of leg; take out bone, and in its place put a highly seasoned force-meat ; roast two hours, dredg- ing and basting last half hour as in Roast Beef When done it may be sent to table with a dish of broiled bacon or ham, and fresh cu- cumbers if in season, with melted butter poured over it, or a rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. For a Stewed Fillet of Mutton, prepare and stuff as above, flour and brown in a little butter, and put into a stewpan with a pint and a half gravy, a small bunch sweet herbs, two or three small onions, a teaspoon whole black pep- per, and salt to taste. Stew slowly three hours and a half Or the fillet may be roasted and then stewed with its trimmings. 510 MEATS. Ragout of Mutton. — Cut three pounds of any cheap parts of muttonin small pieces ; put three tablespoons each butter and flour into a stewpan and when hot and smooth stir in the meat and keep stirring until a rich brown ; add a quart water and a bunch sweet herbs and set where it will cook slowly. Then fry a large tur- nip, cut into cubes, and twelve button onions, or one of common size chopped, in three tablespoons hot butter with a tablespoon flour. When a nice brown, drain and put with the meat. Cook an hour and a half. Some like the flavor of three or four cloves and a clove of garlic put in Avith the herb. Small cubes of potato may be added half an liour before meat is done. Garnish with rice, toasted bread, plain boiled macaroni or mashed potatoes. Serve very hot. Eagoiii of Veat prepared same, but requires cooking an hour longer, and more butter. A nice addition to the ragout is rich puff paste rolled a quarter of an inch thick and baked in diamond shapes an inch long and half an inch wade. Put them in five minutes before ragout is dished. Boiled Pork. — The shoulder and leg ends are most used for boiling, and may be cooked as directed in Boiled Meats. Carrots, turnii)s or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, or separately and served as a garnish ; or serve the meat in a border of boiled cabbage. Skin the leg before serving. Pease Pudding is considered by many an indispensable accompaniment to boiled pork. Wash a quart dry pease, soak in cold Avater two hours and boil in a bag Avith the poVk ; Avhen done put them through a colander, add a large lump butter, salt and two yolks of egg ; put back into bag and boil again half an hour and serve Avith the pork. Some prefer to boil the leg in a floured cloth. If the joint is large, allow a quarter of an hour's cooking to each pound from the time it boils and twenty minutes additional. Roast Pork. — The choicest roasting piece is the loin, between the hind legs and ribs ; next come the upper rib cuts, then spare- ribs, or ribs next shoulder. If a nice spare-rib roast is Avanted it should be ordered with all the meat left on Avhich is usually cut off for steaks. For a plain roast follow directions for Roasted ]Meats, roasting slowly at first, and allow fully half an hour to the pound, as pork must be Avell done. Serve Avith a gravy made in baking pan after pouring off top of drippings. Fried apples are nice Avilh roast pork, or any tart sauce, and turnips or fried cabbage are excellent accompaniments. For a A'ery nice Roast Loin of Pork, choose a .'-■mall loin, separate each joint Avith a chopper and make an incision with a knife in the thick part into Avliich put a stufling made by mixing three tablespoons bread-crumbs Avith a finely chopped onion, halfteaspoopoon chopped sage, pepper, salt, and tablespoon chopped suet or drippings ; Avhen thoroughly mixed, press into the incision and scAV edges of the meat together Avith needle and thread, to confine the / MEATS. 511 stuffing. Grease a sheet of kitchen paper well with drippings, place the loin in this, securing it with a wrapping of twine, and put to bake in a dry baking pan, in a brisk oven, basting immediately and constantly as the fat is drawn out. Allow twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer. Serve with apple sauce or apple- fritters. It is not necessary to put in greased paper, but the skin if left on should be scored across one way at regular intervals or each way in small squares. Instead of opening and stuffing the loin the dressing may be baked separately or put in the pan with the pork a half hour before done. Some rub tbe loin over with salad oil or butter to make it brown and crisp without blistering, before putting in oven. Always serve with it a gravy made in pan, and any other sauce or accompaniments liked. Or the loin may be steamed or boiled until nearly done; then remove skin, coat well with yolk of egg and bread-crumbs and put in oven for about fifteen minutes or until nicel,y browned and thoroughly done. Roast Tenderloin is cooked and served the same. Roast Leg of Pork may be prepared and served same as loin, making the incision for the dressing just lielow the knuckle. Or first parboil the leg and take ofi" skin. Make a stuffing of two tablespoons finel}'' minced _ , onion, half a chopped apple, eight Eoast Leg of Pork. , , t i i ^ ^ \ ^P tablespoons bread-crumbs, halt a dozen chopped sage leaves, tablespoon butter, and a little pepper and salt; bind all together with yolk of an egg; make a slit in the knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and sew ; put in the oven and baste often. Half an hour before taken up, sprinkle over a savory powder made of two tablespoons bread-crumbs mixed with one tablespoon powdered sage, and a little pepper and salt. Do not baste the meat after the powder is put on. Serve with good brown gravy and apple sauce. Almost equal to roast goose. For Roast Spare-rib, trim off the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the middle, rub with salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuflf with either of the above dressings, scav up tightly, place in dripping-pan with pint of water, and baste frequently, turning over once so as to bake both sides equally until a rich brown. Some dredge with flour and powdered sage when basting, and spare-rib is as often roasted without the dressing as with it. Serve with apple sauce, mashed potatoes and greens, or other vegetables. Potatoes are often peeled and baked in the pan with the pork. Or steam or boil the ribs until nearly done ; then take up, lay in dripping-pan with inside of ribs up and fill with either dressing given above, making very moist — as soft as for bread pudding ; bake half an hour. The griskin or back piece is some- times roasted, and as it is apt to be dry it is well to flour it when put in the oven and dredge with flour at every basting to keep in the juices. Sprinkle powdered sage over before taking up.^ The 512 MEATS. nock of pork is very excellent roasted if first thoroughly cleaned and filled with either of the stuffings already given. Bake peeled pota- toes in pan and serve on platter round the pork. "When to be baked and served thus the potatoes should be of uniform size and shaped as round and smooth as possible when peeled. Stewed Pork. — The shoulder, loin or spare-rib are sometimes stewed, though the back and neck ])ieces and other inferior parts are more often cooked thus : Rub the joint witli pepjier and salt, and put into a large saucepan with a closel^'-fitting lid. Boil an hour or two and add two or three onions and carrots, with half a dozen celery stalks, four sage leaves, bunch of parsley, small sprig majoram and thyme, and stock or water to cover. Boil up and skim carefully ; then set back and sinmier gently for three or four hours, according to size of joint. Serve garnished with the vegetables; strain and thicken a portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the meat. When removed from the table, trim the joint neatly and place on a clean dish to be eaten cold, or thicken the rest of the gravy and ))our over the meat to be warmed over. Some like a stew with sweet potatoes, seasoning only with salt and pepper. The ])ota- toes may be peeled or not as preferred, and put in with the pork long enough before it is done to cook them thoroughly. Serve on same platter round the meat. Pork Chops. — Chops are cut from the loin and ribs, the cuts from the leg and shoulder being known as steaks. For Broiled Pork Chop^-. broil as directed in Broiled Meats, cooking until thor- oughly well done and serve plainly, seasoned with salt and pepper, or wiili tomato or any sauce preferred. Pohert Sauce is nice with pork chops as well as beefsteak. For this fry three tablespoons chopped onion a pale yellow in one tablespoon butter, add two table- spoons spiced nnegar, and reduce one half by quick boiling ; add half pint brown gravy, and boil slowly fifteen minutes ; season with saltspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper, two teaspoons French mus- tard, and serve poured over the chops, dished in a circle. Or first single-bread the chops, or roll in melted butter and bread-crumbs, seasoned with sage, broil and serve as above. Or they may be dished round a center of boiled rice or mashed potato, l^^ried Chops are cooked in hot frying pan until nicely browned and thoroughly done on both sides. Then serve like broiled chops, or add a little hot water to the gravy in the pan, a tablespoon butter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, sugar and half cup juice from canned tomatoes ; stew five minutes and pour over the chops. Or simply sprinkle over them a little finely minced onion, powclered sage and pepper anil salt. Or melt two ounces butter in saucepan, and stir into it a teaspoon each chopped parsley, snge and shallot ; fry a few minutes, add a little salt and pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. Dip chops first into.this, then in sifted bread-crumbs, let stand ten minutes, fry in MEATS. 513 little melted butter and serve with a brown gravy poured over. For Pork Chops loith Apj)les, put in frying-pan, scatter a little sage and pepper and salt over; cook thoroughly ; if fat enough, so that there is plenty of gravy, fry sliced apples in that ; if not, add a lump but- ter, brown the apples, and serve over the pork. Some marinade chops four hours in oil with an onion in slices, parsley, bay-leaf, pepper and salt and fry in the marinade, serving with tomato sauce. This is a delicious breakfast dish. Pork Pie. — Line sides of deep pie dish with a good but not very rich paste ; put alternate layers of thinly sliced bacon and potatoes, onions chopped or sliced very fine and lean fresh pork cut into small pieces. Season v/ith pepper, salt and sage. Fill the dish with any good gravy left from roasts, or with water thickened with a little flour, and add little butter. Cover with crust, and bake about an hour and a half. Cover with thick pnper if in danger of brown- ing too much. Or line a deep dish with paste as for chicken pie, put in a layer of sliced sour apples, season with sugar and spice ; add a layer of fresh, rather lean pork, sliced thin, seasoned with salt and pepper; and thus place alternate layers of apple and pork until dish is nearfy full ; put in a little water and cover with paste ; bake slowly until thoroughly do7ie. Pork Pudding. — One cup finely chopped salr ]5ork, two cups each brown sugar and sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder, four cups flour, two cups raisins, teaspoon each cloves and cinna- mon, half teaspoon ginger, half a grated nutmeg. Put in buttered mold and steam or boil four hours. Serve with sour sauce. This makes a large pudding, but will keep a week, and put in steamer and reheated is as good as when fresh. Pork Roll. — Take a piece of side pork, fat and lean together, spread any seasoning of powdered herbs or spices liked over it, roll up tightly and fasten by winding a cloth around it to prevent the edges from curling up ; boil until tender, take from liquor and set away to cool. Serve in nice slices for luncheon or tea. Poi'k Steaks. — The cuts from the leg and shoulder are called steaks and are broiled or fried as beefsteaks ; sprinkle with powder- ed sage before serving, if liked, and send fried apples on witn them, or any sauce preferred. Always cook well done. Pork Tenderloin. — Split open and broil till very brown and well done ; season with pepper, salt and powdered sage. Or split in half, but do not separate entirely ; fill with well seasoned oysters, sew up, and broil thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper before serving. Or split the tenderloin and fry in frying-pan in little but- ter ; mix some chopped pickles with the gravy and pour it over them. 514 MEATS. Pork and Beans. — Pick over carfully a quart of beans and let them soak overnight ; in the morning wash in another water and drain, put on to boil in cold water with a half teaspoon soda ; boil about thirty minutes (when done tlie skin of a bean will crack if taken out and blown upon), drain and put in an earthen pot first a slice of pork and then the beans, \sVA\ two or tliree tablespoons mo- lasses ; put in the center half or three-fourths pound well-washed salt pork with the rind uppermost, scored in slices or squares ; sea- son with pepper and salt if needed ; cover all with hot water and bake six liours or longer in a moderate oven, adding hot water as needed, but do not stir them ; they cannot be baked too long. Keep covered so tbat they will not burn on the top, but remove cover an hour or two before serving, to brown the top and crisp the pork. This is the real Boston Baked Beans, a favorite New England dish for Sunday breakfast. The beans are always baked the day before, allowed to remain in the oven all night, and browned in the morn- ing. Serve in the dish in Avhich they are cooked, and always have enough left to know the luxury of cold beans, or baked beans warm- ed over. If salt pork is too robust for the appetites to be served, season delicately with salt, pepper, and a little butter, and roast a fresh spare-rib to serve with them. Some put the beans to soak in milk-warm water and parboil the pork an hour before putting in the beans, first scalding and scraping the rind; when the beans have boiled up once pour off the water and add fresh ; a sliced onion may be boiled with them if liked ; boil until beans are quite tender, add- ing more water if necessary to prevent scorch- ing ; put in baking dish with tablespoon mo- lasses, score the pork and sink it in center, add a little water in which beans were boiled and brown in oven one hour. Corned beef may be used instead of pork. This is a very ex- cellent dish, but not so nice as the baked beans. The cut represents the old-fashioned Dutch oven, an iron kettle with a heavy tight- cut^h O' .n. fitting iron lid. The oven is lowered into the ground level with the top and the lid covered with live coals. There is no oven which bakes pork and beans and imparts the same delicious flavor. It is also nice for baking brown or corn bread, and may be placed in the stove in- stead of the ground. Spare-rib Pot-pie — Cut spare-ribs once across and then in strips three or four inches wide ; put in kettle with hot water to cover, stew till tender, season with salt and pepper, and turn out of kettle ; replace a layer of spare-ribs in bottom, add a layer of peeled pota- toes (quartered if large), some bits of. butter, small squares of bak- ing-powder dough rolled quite thin; season again, put in another layer of spare-ribs, and so on until kettle is two-thirds full, leaving the squares of crust for last layer ; then add the liquor in which MEATS. 516 iipare-ribs were boiled, and hot water if needed, cover, and boil half to three-quarters of an hour, being careful not to boil dry, adding hot water if necessary. The crust can be made of light biscuit dough, without egg or sugar, as follows : Roll thin, cut out, let rise, and use for the pie, having plenty of water in the kettle, so that when the pie is made and the cover on, it need not be removed until dished. If after taking up, there is not sufficient gravy, add hot water and flour and butter rubbed together ; season to taste, and serve. To warm over pot-pie, set it in a dripping-pan in the oven, add lumps of butter with gravy or hot water, and more squares of dough may be laid on top. Fricatelli. — Chop raw fresh pork very fine, add a little salt, plenty of pepper, and two small onions chopped fine, half as much bread as there is meat, soaked until soft, two eggs ; mix well to- gether, make into oblong patties, and fry like oysters. Nice for breakfast ; if used for supper, serve with sliced lemon. Sausage meat may be used instead of the fresh pork. To Keep Fresh Porli. — Roast the pieces to be kept, all ready for the table ; then put them away in lard. All that is necessary is to heat through when wanted, and the lard is just as good as any for frying doughnuts or musli. Roast Pig. — The pig to be eaten in perfection, should not be more than three or four weeks old, and should be cooked the same day it is killed. If ordered from the butcher it will need only wash- ing and drying ; if killed at home, lay in cold water immediate!}' for a few minutes, then immerse a few minutes in boiling hot water and scrape well ; remove the eyes and tongue, trim the ears, cut off tlie feet, and clean it thoroughly. Wash and dry it with a clean cloth ; rub it well, inside and outside, with sage and seasoning of «alt and cayenne pepper. For the stuffing make a Liver Force-meat as fol- lows : Slice part of the pig's liver and fry brown in two tablespoons butter ; chop fine, then return to frying-pan with a chopped onion and tablespoon chopped parsley, add another tablespoon butter and fry till onion is brown. Soak enough bread to fill the pig in cold water and when soft squeeze dry as possible and put in frying-pan with other ingredients ; add tablespoon each powdered sage, thyme, marjoram and salt and teaspoon pepper. Stir all over fire until scalding hot, then add cup boiling milk and yolks of two raw eggs. When the pig is stuffed sew it up, skewer t|ie fore legs under the head, and the hind legs under the hams ; tie up the ears and tail in buttered paper to prevent burning, and lay the pig in a dripping-pan on abed of vegetables, and brush the pig all over with melted butter or good salad oil, and put into a hot oven ; baste every fifteen min- utes with melted butter or oil, using apastry brush if possible. Leave a medium-sized pig in oven two and a half or three hours. While the pig is being baked, prepare the heart, lights and spleen for the 516 MEAT?, gravy by boiling tender in enough water to cover, then chop fine, and keep hot in same water. When pig is done, take it up, skim the vegetables out of the pan, rub them through a sieve with a potato- masher, and put them again into the dripping-pan witliout washing it, with the chopped mixture, and enough more water to make a thick gravy ; season highly with salt, pepper and powdered sage ; boil two minutes and serve with the pig. For the Aj>ijle Sauce to be served with the dish, wash eight large sound apples, cut through the middle cross-wise, remove cores and bake till tender. Meantime stew eight peeled and sliced apples in little water till tender with two tablespoons sugar and grated lemon rind, and pulp through a sieve ; fill the baked apples with this and set around the pig on platter as a garnish. Serve the pig whole, with an apple or small ear of corn in its mouth, which may be kept open while baking by inserting a piece of wood. It is, however, sometimes served split in half, the two halves placed back to back on platter with half of head on each end, and an ear on each side. Some aho like the brains chopped and mixed with the stuffing, and the tongue and feet cooked with the heart, etc., for the gravy. If a Potato Stainng is liked boil twenty good sized potatoes, mash while hot, add butter, a little milk, and two minced onions and minced sweet herbs, with seasoning of salt and pepper, and bread-crumbs, and stuff the pig with it. Or fill with a Veal Force-meat, if preferred. Another way of preparing is after the pig is dressed to score it in squares, and rub butter, lard or salad oil all over it; make a dressing of two quarts corn meal, salted as if for bread, mix to a stiff" dough with boiling water, put into pans and bake. When baked brown, break it up, and add one-fourth pound butter, pepper to taste, and thyme. Fill the pig till plump, sew it up, and place it on its knees in the pan, which fill with as much water as will cook it. Baste very frequently with the gravy, to which two red pepper pods should be added. Turn while baking same as turkey, and continue to baste till done. Gar- nish with celery and parsley tops and serve with apple sauce. Pig^s Feet. — Take the fore feet, cut off the hocks, clean and scrape them well ; place two feet together and roll them up tightly in common muslin ; tie or sew them so that they will keep m perfect shape, and boil them seven hours on a moderate fire — they will then be very soft ; lift out carefully and let cool ; then remove the muslin and they will be found like jelly. Serve with vinegar, or split and roll in bread-crumbs or, cracker dust, and fry or broil them. Serve with a little tart sauce.* Leave them in the cloths until ready to chop. Some boil them only till tender, not Avrapping in cloth, then split in halves, take out all large bones and fry or broil. Or put the feet into a stewpan with the liver, heart, a thin slice of bacon, an onion, blade of mnce, six pepper-corns, three or four sprigs thyme, pint gravy, pepper and salt to taste, and simmer gently fifteen min- utes ; then take out head and liver, and mince very fine ; stew the MEATS. 517 feet till quite tender, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour, reckoning from the time they boiled up first ; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over gentle fire five minutes, stirring occasionally. Dish the mince and split feet, and ar- range in a circle alternately with croutons of toasted bread, and pour gravy in the middle. Pig'' s- feet Soiise. — Cut off horny parts of feet and toes, scrape, clean, and wash thoroughly, singe off stray hairs, place in a kettle with plenty of water, boil, skim, pour off water and add fresh, and boil until bones will pull out easily ; do not bone, but pack in a stone jar with pepper and salt sprinkled between each layer ; cover with good cider vinegar. Some heat vinegar scalding hot, add two table- spoons sugar, one of cinnamon bark, teaspoon each cloves, allspice and whole black pepper, to three pints vinegar and a little celery or mustard seed may be added if liked. Pour over hot and put a plate or saucer on the feet to keep them under the vinegar. This pro- portion is for four feet ; they may be split in two in packing. When wanted for table, take out a sufficient quantity, put in a hot skillet, add more vinegar, salt and pepper if needed, boil until thoroughly heated, stir in a smooth thickening of flour and watei, and boil until flour is cooked ; serve hot as a nice breakfast dish. Or, when feet have boiled until perfectly tender, remove bones and pack in stone jar with pepper, allspice and salt between the layers, and cover with equal parts vinegar and liquor feet were boiled in ; slice cold when wanted for use, and serve with vinegar or Worcestershire sauce. Or the slices maybe broiled or fried. Some soak the fresh feet overnight before cooking. Let liquor in which the feet are boiled stand over- night ; in the morning remove fat and prepare and keep for use as directed in Medical Department. Baked Pig's Head. — Cut the head in halves and thoroughly clean it, take out brains, trim the snout and ears, put in a pan with a little dripping, bake an hour and a half, basting occasionally. Wash the brains well, blanch and beat them up with an egg, pepper, and salt, some finely chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of butter ; fry them or brown them before the fire and serve with the head. Boiled Pig's Head. — Thoroughly wash half a salted pig's head and soak overnight in cold water ; in the morning put over the fire in more cold water, with a half cup vinegar, and teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and boil gently three hours, or until very tender ; leave it in the water in which it was boiled until it is wanted for the table ; serve it with boiled spinach, cabbage, or beet tops. Collared Pig'^s Head. — Singe the head carefully, bone it with- out breaking the skin, and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by 518 MEATS. boiling together half an hour, one gallon water, one pound common salt, tablespoon chopped juniper-berries, six bruised cloves, two bay- leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, and one-fourth ounce salt- petre. When cold, pour it over the head, arid let it stand in this ten days, turning and rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain and dry it. For the force-meat, pound half pound each ham and bacon till fine, and mix in one teaspoon mixed spices, pepper to taste, quarter pound lard, tablespoon minced parsley, six young onions chopped. Spread this over the head, roll tightly in cloth, bind with tape and put in saucepan with a few meat trimmings and cover with stock. Simmer gently four hours. When tender, take up and put between two dishes with heavy weight on top; when cold remove cloth and tape and send to table for breakfast or luncheon, on napkin, or gar- nished with white paper frill at top. Pig^s Head Cheese. — Having thoroughly cleaned a nice head, split in two, take out the eyes and brain ; clean the ears, throw scalding water over the head and ears, then scrape them well ; when very clean, put in kettle with water to cover, and set over a rather quick fire ; skim it as any scum rises ; when boiled so that the flesh leaves the bones, take it from the water with a skimmer into a large wooden bowl or tray ; take out every particle of bone, chop meat fine, season to taste with salt and pepper (a little pounded sage may be added), spread a cloth over the colander, put the meat in, fold cloth closely over it, lay a weight on it so that it may press the whole surface equally (if it be lean use a heavy weight, if fat, a lighter one) ; when cold take off weight, remove from colander, and place in crock. Some add vinegar in proportion of one pint to a gallon crock. Clar- ify the fat from the cloth, colander, and liquor of the pot, and use for frying. Some boil and chop the meat from the feet also. Pow- dered sweet herbs, teaspoon allspice, two of cloves and saltspoon powdered mace make a very nice seasoning, and some like the flavor of onions stuck with cloves boiled with the meat. Instead of press- ing in a cloth the meat may be packed in molds, moistened or not with a little of its own broth, and a little \'inegar. Boiled heart, part of liver and the tongue are also chopped and added, and some- times a fourth as much lean beef as meat from head, etc., is added. Sliced tongue and sausages, or whole tongue may be placed in center of mold. This dish is called ^ra?r;i by the English, who pack in molds, without moistening, and press with weights. Some cook again ten minutes or so after chopping the meat and adding the seasonings before putting in molds. It is nice to pack in small molds, if to be served cold, and slice at table. Garnish with parsley and barberries or slices of lemon. Scrapple is composed of the head-meat, trimmings of the hams and shoulders, flitch, smaller parts of the chine, the heart, part of the liver and the skin ofl'the parts intended for lard and sausage. The spleen, kidneys and cracklings are used by some and rejected by others. The feet and MEATS. 519 ears may also be used. The head is split between the jaws, and after the tongue is taken out it is split through the middle the other way. Cut off one or two inches of the snout and take off the jaw- bone and nasal cavities as far as the teeth extend, and cut across at the eye and also at the opening of the ear. The meat may then be cleaned out evenly. Put the head meat into the boiler after putting in v/ater to cover it, add the rest of the meat in a quarter of an hour. The meat must be boiled until it will readily separate from the bones (the skins should be boiled separately as they take a long time to boil) ; then take from liquid, remove the bones and chop the meat very fine. Strain the liquid to get out small bones and add to it enough Avater to make five parts liquid to three of meat. As soon as liquid boils, stir in corn meal and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring all the time. Make a moderately thick mush, then put in meat, mixing thoroughly, cook slowly one hour and season to taste. It takes about as much meal as meat, but no buckwheat nor flour. The Indian meal must be ground fine, of new corn, well dried before grinding. Put away in tin pans or earthern pots in cold place but do not let it freeze. Slice and fry. Boiled Salt Pork. — Wash a piece of salt pork, the leg is best, put over the fire in cold water to cover and boil slowly three hours, allowing twenty minutes to the pound ; when done, take up the meat, remove skin and serve with pickles or mustard and boiled potatoes. Fried Salt PorJc. — Cut in rather thin slices, and freshen by let- ing lie an hour or two in cold water or milk and water, roll in flour and fry till crisp and a nice golden brown ; if in a hurry, par- boil, or pour boiling water on the slices, let stand a few minutes, drain, roll in flour and fry as before. Fry cold boiled potatoes, sliced, in same fat till brown on both sides, without breaking, and serve as a garnish round the slices of pork on platter. Keep both hot while making a gravy as follows : Drain off' most of the grease from frying-pan, stir in while hot one or two tablespoons floiir, about half pint new milk, little pepper, and salt if not salt enough already from the meat; let boil and pour into gravy dish. A nice white gravy when properly made.- Some soak pork to be fried for break- fast overnight in buttermilk. Pork Fried in Batter is nice for a change. Make the batter by beating together four eggs, three heap- ing tablespoons flour, a cup milk, and a little salt; dip the slices of pork in this and fry in hot fat, or pour the batter over pork in fry- ing-pan and cook all until a nice brown. While making gravy place the fried pork where it will keep hot but not fry, as it should be sent to table in nice dry crisp slices without a particle of grease visible. An excellent way of serving is to dust with white pepper and turn a little sweet cream over the slices. Poi'k Scraj^s with Egg Sauce are nice served with boiled codfish and mashed potatoes. Cut fat salt pork into half inch squares and fry a crisp brown ; for the cauce, 520 MEATS. beat an egg very light, with one tablespoon flour. Add two table- spoons cold water, then pour on one pint boiling water. Let it boil three minutes, then take from the fire, add one-half cup melted but- ter, and serve poured round the pork slices neatly placed in center of platter. For Fried Pork with Apples, core sour apples, cut into nice slices crosswise without peeling them and fry in pan with slices of pork, and serve on dish with pork in center and apples around Pressed Salt Pork. — Take a rather long strip of fat and lean salt pork, cut from the flank ; wash it in cold water, and soak in warm water until sufficiently softened to roll ; lay pork skin down on table, cut out all bones and gristle, season rather highly with pepper and mixed powdered dried sweet herbs, or chopped parsley or celery leaves ; some cover with sliced pickled gherkins, seasoned Avith pepper and powdered mace ; cut any uneven portions and place them so that pork can be rolled up tightly ; tie and put it over the fire in boiling water to cover, and boil gentlv an hour and a quarter, or until tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork, then drain it, reserving liquor in which it was boiled, put it between two dishes, with a weight on upper one, and press until cold ; then remove strings, slice and serve. Parsnips washed and scraped, and boiled tender with pork, can be sliced and fried, and servedwith it; the cold pork can be sliced and quickly browned in frying pan with parsnips, either drippings, lard, or butter being used for frying them ; carrots can be cooked in same manner, and served with pork, or any vegetable preferred. A nice flavor may be given the pork by boiling with it two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, bunch of parsley and sprig of thyme. Roast Salt Pork. — Boil one hour; pour off" first water, and boil another hour ; take out and put it in pan. tip so grease will run off", sprinkle with pepper, and bake brown, turning and basting often, dredging with flour at two or three last bastings. Bake small, smooth potatoes, peeled and cut round, in pan with pork, and dish around it as a garnish. Make a brown gravy in pan and serve in gravy boat. Or take moderately thin pieces, about right for three thin slices, pepper and du?t Avith sage, and bake as above. Before it is done put in a few pieces of onion. When done, take out, cut into slices for table, dish and pour a very little cream over, sprinkle with flour and put in oven to broAvn. Or after freshening and parboiling a thin piece of side pork, spread with a dressing of bread-crumbs, finely chopped onion, a small piece of butter, pepper and salt, and two well-beaten eggs. Roll well together and tie tightly. Place in a dripping-pan, with a little water, dust Avith flour a'nd a little pepper, and roast till a nice broAvn. SerA^e Avith apple sauce. A -little finely chopped pie- plant added gives the sauce a pleasant acid taste. Salt Pork Pot-pie.— V-^xho\\ a piece of side pork, cut in small pieces and put in kettle Avdth water to cover; add one or two onions MEATS. 521 an equal amount of carrot, and a little pepper ; let cook a few min- utes, then put in potatoes, and twenty minutes before taking up, put in some dumplings. Or grate medium-sized carrot, chop one small onion, and cut in small slices one or two potatoes, add the parboiled pork, cut in bits, with sufficient water, and cook until vegetables are done ; thicken, and over the top spread a baking-powder crust, and bake until it is done. Some cook the pork in slices, parboiling as above, and add only small potatoes, whole. Before putting in the dumplings it may be necessary to add more water, which should be boiling. For the dumplings take one pint flour, pinch of soda, salt, an egg beaten light, and very sour milk enough to make a soft dough, or a very stiff batter so it will drop, not run off the spoon ; drop this in small spoonfuls into the kettle, and cook until light and done, which will be in a very few minutes. Salt Pork Stew. — Boil one pound salt pork, previously fresh- ened, until tender, then take out and place in pan in oven to brown. Boil potatoes and onions, or potatoes alone in the liquor the pork was boiled in and when done stir in a beaten egg mixed with a cup milk and tablespoon butter, with seasoning to taste. Or when onions are omitted put in dumplings a half hour before ready to serve. Boiled Bacon. — As bacon is often very salt, it should be soaked in. warm water an hour or two before cooking ; then pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put into a saucepan cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as scum rises remove it. Simmer very gently till thoroughly done ; then take up, strip off skin, sprinkle some bread-crumbs over and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and tender beans or green pease are the usual accompaniments. Or boil a half lean and fat piece Avith a little stock, slices of sausage and cabbage ; season with salt and spice and serve' all very hot, the bacon in center of dish with sausages and cabbage around. Breakfast Bacon. — Slice very thin, cut off outside and lay each slice on slice of bread of ordinary thickness, same size as bacon, and bake in pan in very hot oven. Or boil till tender, and when cold, slice, single-bread and fry brown in very little fat. Very nice, and quite unlike bacon. Broiled Bacon. — The half lean and fat part of thick flank is best for broiling. Cut into thin slices, take off rind, broil over a clear fire and serve very hot. Some broil it between sheets of paper. Should there be any cold bacon left from the pre\dous day, it an- swers very well for breakfast, cut into slices and broiled or fried. Fried Bacon — Cut bacon in thin slices and fry ; some like it crisp, others fry only till transpare4t \ fry eggs in same pan and 522 MEATS. serve one on each slice. Or fry iart apples, either quartered or sliced crosswise and cored, in the fat and serve them on the slices of bacon, Avhich have been kept hot in oven. Rashers of Bacon diVQ thin strips of bacon, about an eighth of an inch thick, and three or four inches long, fried until transparent. The French serve them laid over beefsteak, roast beef, game, etc., and they are often served for breakfast with fried liver. Bacon Pudding. — Cut a quarter pound fat bacon in small bits and fry brown with two sliced onions ; add a pint split pease, table- spoon salt, saltspoon pepper, teaspoon sugar and cold water to cover ; boil until pease are reduced to pulp, which will be in about three hours. Then stir in oatmeal to thicken, boil twenty minutes, stir- ring occasionally, and serve hot ; any remains left over may l)e sliced and fried brown" or the whole may be cooled, packed in a tin or mold and then fried. Bacon Roly-Poly. — Boil a pound and a half bacon half an hour j then slice thin ; peel and slice six apples and same number onions ; make stiff dough of two quarts flour,teaspoon salt, pint finely chopped suet and coldVater; roll out half an inch thick and eight inches wide; lay the oacon, apples, and onion all over it, roll up,_ tie tightly in a clean cloth, and boil about two hours, in plenty of boiling water, or it may be steamed four hours. Serve hot Avith boiled potatoes, or boiled cabbage. Some omit the onions and apples, and chop the bacon fine. For Ham Roly-Polij use chopped ham instead of bacon. Baked Ham. — Put the ham in water at least twelve hours be- fore baking. Skimmed milk, or milk and Avatcr is preferred by many to water for soaking hams. When ready to cook wipe the ham dry, trim away any rusty places, and cover it with a coarse paste of flour and w'aterto keep the gravy in, place in pan on trivet, put in oven and bake from four to six hours, according to size, or allow fifteen minutes for each pound. Wlien ready to ■i""'- serve take off paste and skin, cover Avith bread or cracker crumbs seasoned Avith salt and pepper, and as soon as broAvned take up and garnish the knuckle Avith a paper frill. Ham is sometimes roasted plainly, as directed in Roasted Meats, dredging well Avith flour, bread-crumbs or cracker dust, but is much sweeter and nicer if the juices are confined by a paste as above. Baked Stuffed Ham is prepared by making deep incisions in the ham Avith a sharp knife and filling them Avith a bread stutfing, seasoned Avith onion, ground sage, celery seed and thyme, or Avith a dressing made by mixing a quarter pound fresh pork chopped A'ery fine, tAvo table- spoons poAvdered sage, one of black pepper, teaspoon cloves, all- spice, and cinnamon^'and an onion chopped very fine, moistening with pepper vinegar. Put the ham on trivet, sift flour thickly over MEATS 523 and if pan is deep fill half full of water. Bake as above, basting as other roast meats. Or wash and scrape skin till very white, cut out a piece from thick part (use for frying), leaving the skin on the ham as far as possible, as it makes a casing for the stuffing ; put in a boil- er and steam for three hours ; take out and score in thin slices all around the skin ; fill the space cut out with a stuffing made of bread- crumbs, same as for poultry, only not quite so rich, seasoned rather highly with pepper and sage ; wrap around a strip of cotton cloth to keep "in place, and bake in the oven one and a half hours, turning so as to brown aU sides nicely. The last half hour sift lightly with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Some peel off skin after steaming, then insert dressing so that when carved each slice will have some of the dressing in it. Mix two well-beaten eggs with sifted bread or cracker crumbs and spread over the ham, then sprinkle brown sugar over and bake, basting frequently with the liquor in pan. What is left is delicious sliced cold. Boiled Ham.— Tout boiling water over the ham and let stand until cool enough to wash ; scrape clean (some have a coarse hair- brush on purpose for cleaning hams), put in a thoroughly, cleansed boiler, or Ham Boiler, with cold water enough to cover ; bring to boiling point, skim, and place on back part of stove to simmer steadily for six or seven hours, or till tender when pierced with a fork, or allow fifteen minutes for each pound ; be careful to keep water at boiling point, but do not allow it to go much above that. Turn the ham onee or twice in the w'ater ; when done take up and put into baking-pan to skin ; dip hands in cold water, take skin be- tween fingers and peel as an orange ; set in moderate oven, ])lacing lean side of ham downward, and if liked, sift over pounded or rolled crackers ; bake one hour. The baking brings out a great quantity of fat, leaving the meat much more delicate, and in warm weather it will keep in a dry, cool place a long time ; if there is a tendency to mold, set it a little while into the oven again. Or, after the ham is boiled and peeled, cover with the white of a raw egg, and sprinkle sugar or fine bread-crumbs over it ; or cover with a regular cake-icing, place in the oven and brown ; or, quarter two onions, stick whole allspice and black pepper in the quarters, and with a knife make slits in the outside of the ham in which put the onions, place in dripping-pan, lay parsley around, and bake till nicely browned ; or put chopped parsley and pepper in the incisions. Or, after boiling and peeling, dust with sugar, and pass a salamander or hot shovel over it until it forms a caramel glaze, and serve without baking. Some rub the ham over with brown sugar moistened with a little vinegar ; stick it full of cloves, then bake fif- 524 MEATS. teen minutes ; or take half cup brown sugar, teaspoon browned flour, and moisten with vinegar ; cover this paste over the fat of the ham,and set in very hot oven until the mixture froths. A still nicer way is to glaze with strong meat Jelly or any savory jelly at hand, boiled down rapidly (taking great care to prevent burning) until it is like glue. Brush this jelly over the ham when cool, and it makes an elegant dish. The nicest portion of the boiled ham may be served in slices, and the ragged parts and odds and ends chopped fine for sandwiches, or by adding three eggs to one pint of chopped ham a delicious ome- let may be made. If the ham is very salt, it should he in water over- night. Hard-boiled eggs in rings, pickled beets cut in fancy shapes, sliced lemons and green parsley are used as a garnish for ham. Rome soak the ham as for baking, and add to the water in which it is to be boiled a pint vinegar, two or three bay-leaves and little bunch thyme and parsley. Others like the flavor of parsley, turnips and onions. The ham may also be stuffed as directed in Baked Ham. If to be served cold let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold, but do not leave overnight. Remove the rind and with a cloth ^__^^gj,^ absorb as much grease from it as )ossible ; then sprinkle with )read - crumbs, cut any figure f ' -^ '^ "^^^^^.-^i^s-i*- % fancied upon it, with a sharp j^^ vM^^fj^^Ls^. knife, ornament with a paper ^^l^'^^^^^^^^^a^^^JP^^^^ frill and croutons or vegetable x ^^^^^^^^'^ ^i^l^^ ^H^^^ ^^ flowers, (see Garnishes), and ^^*^*^=*^^^^i^^^^!?^^^^ serve with a garnish of aspic jelly. Garnished Ham. jf ^^^ ordinary boiler is used to boil a ham, some put a whisp of clean, sweet hay in bottom. Keep the bone for soup, and the rind and fat should be rendered and strained for frying. Botied Ham. — Having soaked a well-cured ham in tepid water overnight, boil it till perfectly tender, putting it on in warm water ; take ui> in a wooden tray, let cool, remove bone carefully, press the ham again into shape, return to boiling liquor, remove pot from fire, and let remain in it till cool. Cut across and serve colcl. Or fill the bone cavity with a bread stuffing or force-meat and bake an hour. Serve either hot or cold. Broiled Tlam. — Cut ham in slices of medium thickness, place on a hot gridiron and broil until the fat readily flows out and the meat is slightly browned, take from the gridiron with a knife and fork, drop into a pan of cold water, then return again to the grid- iron, repeat several times, and the ham is done ; place on a hot plat- ter, add a few lumps of butter, and ser\'e at once. If too fat, trim off a part ; it is almost impossible to broil the fat part without burn- ing, but this does not impair the taste. Pickled pork and breakfast bacon may be broiled in the same way. Or use any patent broil- MEATS. 525 ersas in Broiled Meat. Eggs broken first into a saucer and then delicately fried in butter or clarified dripping by dipping the fat over them till whites are set, are nice served on broiled ham or bacon. Or they may be served round the meat as a garnish, and broiled or fried ham is sometimes served on a bed of boiled spinach. Fried Ham and Eggs. — Cut the ham into thin slices and if particularly hard and salt, soak it about ten minutes in hot water then dry in a cloth and put over fire in cold frying-pan, and turn the slices three or four ""^^^^^^^ times while cooking. Ham should be thorough- ly well done, and will need to fry at least half an hour. When done place on a dish and serve, a poached egg on each slice. Or keep the ham hot in oven, and fry the eggs in the fat in pan, dipping it over the eggs with a spoon to cover with the white film, and some turn the eggs. Take out as soon as whites are set and serve on the ham. Or place the slices of ham in boiling water and cook till ten- der ; then put in frying-pan and brown, dish on a platter, and serve eggs on the slices, ifried as above, or as a border, with ham in center of platter. ■ Very delicious. Or alter cooking in water dip the slices of ham in flour or sifted bread-crumbs before frying. AnQther way of serving ham is after boiling to put where it will keep Avarm ; then mix equal quantities potatoes and cabbage, bruised well together, and fry an the fat left from the ham. Place the mixture on bottom of dish and lay the slices of ham on top. Cauliflower or broccoli may be substituted for cabbage. Bacon may be served same. The most economical way to cut a ham for broiling or frying, is to slice, for the same meal, from the large end as well as from the thickest XJart ; in this way a part of best and a part of the less desirable is brought on, and the waste of the meal is from the poorest, as the best is eaten first. After cutting a ham, if not to be cut from again soon, rub the cut side with corn meal ; this prevents the ham from becoming rancid, and rubs off easily when the ham is needed again. Frizzled Ham. — Cut the lean part of ham in thin shavings, as thin as possible ; soak in cold water an hour, then press the water out. Put a level tablespoon butter in a frying-pan and when hot put in a pint of the meat and fry about five minutes, stirring all the time ; then sprinkle over it a heaped tablespoon flour and fry till the flour is a yellow-brown color ; pour a pint sweet milk over and [et boil one minute. Nice for breakfast or tea. Dried beef prepared same way. Potted Ham. — Take a pound of lean to every half pound fat ham (or better to every quarter pound fat) and mince very fine, run through a sausage machine, or better, pound in a mortar ; add to each pound and a hall a small teaspoon powdered mace, quarter of a good-sized nutmeg, grated coarse, and a saltspoon cayenne pepper ; less mace may be used and a little pounded allspice added instead ; 526 MEATS. a powdered bay leaf may also be added, and some like a little mus- tard ; mix all thoroughly and press into the dish or pot in which it is to be served. Bake in oven about twenty-five minutes, taking care that the top does nut brown too much, and then press it down very hard using a weight of some kind. Cover the top with a thin coat of fresh melted lard or clarified butter, tie down with an oil-cloth cover or paste pa])er over and it will keep for months. Some cover and put away without l)aking, and others bake in baking dish, then pack in pots. Very nice sliced for luncheon ortea or for sandwiches. Steamed Ham. — Steaming is thought by many far the best way of cooking a ham. Lay in cold water for twelve hours; wash very thoroughly, rubbing with a stiff brush to dislodge the salt and smoke on the outside. Put into patent steamer, or a common steamer cov- ered closely and set over a pot of boiling water. Allow at least twenty minutes to a pound, keeping the water at a hard boil. Whea done finish and garnish as Boiled Ham and serve spinach or other vegetables with it. Ham Cake. — Pound one and a half nonnds nice ham in a mor- tar, or pass it through a sausage maehn"ffe. Soak a large slice oi bread in a half pint milk, and mix it and the ham well together. Add a beaten egg, put the whole into a mold and bake a rich brown. Ham Pitifs. — One pint each water and flour, five eggs, three or four tablespoons chopped ham, ])inch of cayenne. While water is boiling stir in flour, beat well and cook until the stifl" batter parts from the pan, then beat in the eggs one by one, and add the ham and seasoning ; drop in hot lard and fry until brown. A nice break- fast dish. Ham Squares. — Make a thin batter of flour, water, two eggs and a little salt. Have a frying pan hot and put in it one tablespoon each lard and butter, or drippings. Pour in very thin layer of bat- ter, let fry two or three minutes, cover the batter with thin slices of ham, then pour a thin covering of batter over that and fry till the bottom is a light brown ; cut in squares, turn and fry the other side. Sausage. — For the various ways of making and packing saus- age intended for long keeping turn to Cutting and Curing Meats. To cook sausage that has been packed in jars take out and make with floured hands in small cakes and fry in pan witliout lard, turn- ing to cook both sides, or simj)ly spread on bottom of frying-pan to thickness desired, and when cooked on one side cut into nice sized pieces and turn to finish frying. The sausage in skins should be pricked and put in cold frying-pan to cook slowly, or if not pricked fry in a little lard or dripping, and if not liked very fat, take out of pan when nearly done, and finish cooking on gridiron. Or a very neat and the most wholesome way of cooking is to prick them all MEATS. 527 around, lay in a shallow tin, and put in oven to bake half an hour. Sausage and Amnes are often served together. If the sausage is in cakes, slice the apples quite thin and fry in pan with them, serv- ing sausage in center of dish with apples around. If the saugage is in skins, fry both sausage and sliced apples by dropping in hot lard, frying apples until nicely browned. Serve as above, or after ftying, put both into a pudding dish with edge of paste and bake half an hour m quick oven. Ajyples Stuifed loith Sausage are sometimes served as an entree. Remove the cores from sour apples without breaking, stuff with highly seasoned sausage meat, and bake until the meat is done in a moderate oven. Sausages are also served on a bed or mound of mashed potato with apple fritters as a border, or with ap- ple sauce. Or send to table with pieces oftoastof same size between the sausages. Or split the sausages in two and broil them sending to table on toast. Some prefer brown-bread toast for this. For Sausage Rolls make paste same as for pie, only not so rich ; roll sausage cakes in separate pastes and bake in oven till lightly browned. For those who object to sausage because of the fat a very delicate way of preparing is to mix with the sausage as taken from jars bread-crumbs or cracker-dust, — half and half — and some add beaten eggs ; make into small cakes, dredge with Hour and fry. Baited Sausage. — Mix a good Cj[uantity bread-crumbs Avith prepared sausage meat, add an onion chopped fine, and seasoning to taste ; some like a little pounded cloves. Mix well and fill in deep baking pan, with strips of fresh pork about two inches long inserted an inch apart. Bake slowly four hours. Leave in pan till perfectly cold. To serve, slice crosswise. Breaded Sausage. — Wipe the sausages dry, single-bread, put in frying-basket, plunge in hot fa.t and cook ten minutes. Serve with a garnish of toasted bread and parsley. Creoled Sausage. — Chop garlic size of pea very fine ; peel and slice pint of tomatoes, or use an equal quantity canned, without their liquor, wipe two pounds sausage Avith wet cloth, and prick with fork to prevent skins bursting while cooking ; put sausages over fire in dripping-pan to fry and when they begin to yield drippings, push to one side of pan, and put in the garlic and tomatoes ; let fry without mixing with the sausage ; while tomatoes are frying break and mix them with the sausage drippings, and season rather highly with salt and pepper ; when sausages are brown, take up tomatoes with a skimmer, lay on hot dish, and serve sausages on them. The drippings remaining in pan will serve as good basis for tomato sauce. Liver Sausage. — Mince together three-fourths pound rather fat bacon, one pound calf's liver and half pound bread-crura bs ; sea- son with pepper, salt, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, parsley, 528 >rEAT3. thyme, a hay leaf, and add three eggs ; mix all thoroughly together, encase in the usual skin and fry a nice hrown. Mutton Sausage. — Take a pound fresh mutton, or that which has been underdone, chop very fine and season with pepper, salt and beaten mace. Chop also half pound beef suet, two anchovies, pint oysters, quarter pound bits or dry bread, and a boiled onion , mix the whole with the oyster liquor and whites and yolks of two well-beaten eggs ; pound ithe whole in a mortar, roll into lengths, corks or balls, and fry. Oyster Sausage. — Take one pound of veal and twenty oys- ters, bearded ; pound the veal very fine in a mortar with a little suet, and season with little pepper , soak a piece of bread in the oyster- liquor, pound, and add it, with the 03'sters cut in pieces, to the veal ; beat and add an egg to bind them together, roll into little lengths and fry in butter a delicate brown. Or take half pound lean mut- ton or beef, with three-quarters pound beef suet, and twenty-five oysters, bearded. Chop the whole and add bread-crumbs, with two yolks of eggs. Season with salt, Avhitc pepper, a little mace, and mushroom powder. May be put in skins and kept a day or two be- fore frying. Poultry Sausage. — Chop very fine, or pound in mortar, equal parts cold fowd, cream, dried bread-crumbs, and boiled onions ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; make into cakes and fry as any sausages. Or take the remains of boiled or roasted fowl, remove bones and chop fine. Boil some onions in good gravy and when quite soft pound them, season with salt, pepper, parsley, two cloves and a blade of mace ; pound the meat and add some bacon cut in small pieces. Mix with the yolk of an egg, add a little lemon juice or sour pickle, or chop a little sorrel with the herbs, fill into skins and broil, or make into little cakes and fry. Remains of rab- bit or other game may be prepared same. Veal Saiisage. — Chop a half pound each lean veal and fat bacon very fine ; add sage, salt, pepper and allspice to taste ; beat well, roll into bails, flatten and fry. An anchovy chopped with the meat is an improvement. WTiite Sausage. — Chop two pounds suet very fine and add a pint oatmeal, two or three onions boiled in milk and chopped with seasoning of white pepper and salt ; fill skins and cook as other sausage. Rice boiled in milk may be added if liked. Sausages may be made of any cooked meats, chicken or rabbits ; cliop the meat very fine, adding onions and seasonings as above, with chop- pec^ parsley and a few grains of pounded mace; or add chopped ba- con instead of suet, mix all together with two yolks of eggs, a few bread-crumbs and a few drops lemon juice; make in little cakes or fill skins and broil or fry. They will keep but a few days. MEATS. 529 Sausage with Chestnuts. — Roast twenty or thirty chestnuts, peel and remove inner skin. Cut six thin slices sausage meat into diamonds and fry brown in a little fresh butter. Take them out and thicken butter in pan with flour, add a pint good gravy with two or three tablespoons any catsup liked, a bunch of herbs and salt and pepper to taste. When this boils put the sausage round the sides of pan with chestnuts in center and stew three-quarters of an hour. Dish with sausage as a border, pouring the gravy over all. Sausage Roll. — Roll a piece best puff paste out to an eighth of an inch in thickness ; cut in four-inch squares and lay them out on board ; have the sausage meat ready, break it off in pieces the size of a small egg, roll out three inches long and place one piece in the middle of eacli square of pastry ; wet the edge of pastry with water then fold over, leaving fourth of an inch edge around the side ; wash Avith egg, taking care not to allow the egg to run down over the sides of the pastry. Give a few shallow cuts with a sharp knife ; then cut a leaf of pastr3% place it in the center (do not wash it), and bake them a nice brown. If made well the edges will rise up and the roll will look like a book. Marbled Veal. — Boil a beef tongue, and same quantity lean veal ; grind separately in sausage cutter ; season both Avith pepper, a little mustard and pinch each of nutmeg and cloves, adding salt to veal. Pack in alternate spoonfuls as irregularly as possible in a buttered crock, pressing very hard ; put in cold place, turn out whole and cut in slices. "White meat of fowls ma}' be used in place of veal. Or take a piece of veal from the round ; add loose lean scraps, and a bone if convenient ; cover wath cold water and boil un- til perfectly tender ; remove the piece of meat, leaving the scraps and bone to stew longer. Have ready four or five hard-boiled eggs ; slice the cold veal, and put in the mold in layers, with sliced egg, a little salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, boiled ham cut in dice, and a slight dredging of flour ; reserve enough of the egg to make a border around the last layer. When mold is full press the layers gently to- gether and pour in the stock from kettle. If there were no scraps or bone for the stock, stir in a tablespoon melted gelatine for each pint meat ; cover mold, and bake moderately for an hour and a half. When cold, turn from mold and serve. Thinly-sliced uncooked veal may be used. Potted Veal. — Mince veal and ham together in proportion of one pound veal to quarter pound ham, pound in mortar with cay-' enne and mace to taste and sufficient fresh butter to make smooth paste. Press into little pots or jars and cover with clarified butter. Nice for breakfast or luncheon Veal Collo})s. — Cut two pounds leg of veal into long thin pieces about two inches wide, flatten them and lay on each a slice of bacon 530 MEATS. same size. Spread a highly seasoned force-meat over the bacon, sprinkle with cayenne, roll up tightly, skewer firmly, single-bread them and fry a rich brown in little butter, turning occasionally. When done, dish and set in oven to keep hot, while making gravy in pan ; flavor with lemon juice, salt, pepper and pounded mace, boil up once and pour over the coUops. For Veal Rolls, take slices half inch thich of cold veal, brush with egg and finish as above. Yeal Curry. — Cut part of a breast of veal into pieces about three inches long and two wide ; fry in butter a light brown, with an onion chopped fine ; while hot rub them over well with two tablespoons curry powder; put into stewpan and add some good veal broth, pep- per, salt and butter, and stew very slowly until meat is tender. If wished acid, lemon juice or liquor from pickles may be added. Or fry the onion in butter separately, a light brown, skim out and set by until wanted. Fry about two pounds veal cut in small square pieces in same butter, stirring to brown well on all sides, add two tablespoons curry powder and draw pan to one side ; grate an apple over the veal, return to fire and add half teaspoon salt, three gills stock and when boiling the fried onion ; again draw aside and leave to simmer uncovered two hours to reduce the gravy. Just be- fore serving stir in two tablespoons cream and juice of half a lemon. Serve with the sauce poured over, and send a dish of boiled rice on with it. The reason for browning the onion separately is that the veal requires so much longer time to brown that the vegetables would be reduced to a crisp before the meat could be done. Lean mutton, rabbit and chicken may all be curried in this way. Yeal Cutlets. — The choicest cutlets or steaks are cut from the fillet or center of hind leg. For Broiled Veal Cutlets, dredge with pepper and salt and dip in melted butter and sifted bread-crmnbs twice, and broil Avith a piece of buttered paper between the cutlets and the broiler, giving them time to cook through before the bread- ing is brown. When nearly done remove paper and finish on the broiler. Serve garnished with parsley and lemon. They may be broiled without the paper. Or first half fry them in a little butter, turn white sauce over them and let stand till cold. Then dip in melted butter or oil, enclose in buttered paper cases with edges folded so that the sauce will not run out, and broil slowly twenty minutes, or place in oven for same time. For Fried Veal Cutlets, make a batter of half pint milk, a well-beaten egg, and flour ; fry veal brown in sweet lard or beef-drippings, dip it in the batter and fry again till brown ; drop spoonfuls- of batter in hot lard after veal is taken up, and serve on top of meat ; ]nit a little thickening in the gravy with ealt and pepper, let it come to a boil and pour it over the whole. The veal should be cut thin, pounded, and cooked nearly an hour. Sifted bread-crumbs or cracker dust and egg may be used instead of batter, but the skillet should then be kept covered, and the veal MEATS. 531 cooked slowly for half an hour over a moderate fire. Some season the crumbs with grated lemon peel, and nutmeg and a little chopped parsley. If a gravy is wanted, sprinkle a little flour in the pan, add salt and pepper and a little water, let come to a boil, and pour over the cutlets ; or, pound well, squeeze juice of lemon over the slices, let stand an hour or two, dip in beaten egg and then in fine dry bread-crumbs, and plunge at once into hot fat enough to cover. The slices will brown before they are thoroughly cooked, and the pan should be drawn aside to a cooler place to finish more slowly. Fry slices of tomato, first rolled in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, with the cutlets and serve as a border round them. Or turn a nice brown gravy over them and garnish with parsley or sliced lemon. Or fry slices of ham first, then fry the breaded cutlets in same fat, and arrange on dish with alternate slices overlapping each other, spreading the ham with butter mixed with a little mustard, and the veal with butter melted with a little tart jelly. Or fry and serve wath nice slices of salt pork. Some cooks parboil before frying either in clear water or put with them a piece of nice pork, clove of garlic, bunch of thyme and parsley, pepper and salt, cover with water and stew ten or fifteen minutes, take out and cool, then bread and fry. Nice with mushroom sauce. For Maryland Cutlets, cut two pounds fillet of veal into small round pieces and place in frying- pan with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of white pepper and salt. Cook the meat over a slow fire five minutes in order to whiten it, turning the pieces and do not let the butter brown. Draw pan from fire and sprinkle over the meat a tablespoon chopped pars- ley, half dozen mushroom.s and a shallot also chopped ; melt in sep- arate saucepan a tablespoon butter, stir in a tablespoon flour, add by degrees a half pint white stock, bring all to a boil, pour over the veal in frying-pan and cook slowly twenty minutes, turning the meat constantly to prevent coloring too much. When done take up the meat on flat dish and stir into sauce yolks of two eggs beaten with tablespoon cream, simmer slowly till thick and turn over the cutlets which must have been kept hot. Veal Fricandelles. — Cook one cup each milk and bread-crumbs until a smooth paste ; add two pounds lean veal, finely chopped, half cup chopped ham, cup butter, salt and pepper to taste, and juice of half a lemon. Mix thoroughly and form into balls size of an egg, dip the balls in beaten yolks of three eggs and brown them in butter. When all are cooked, stir through the butter in pan three table- spoons flour, add gradually a pint and a half beef stock, and boil two minutes. Put the balls in this and cook very slowly one hour. Serve with toast and lemon. Fricandelles can be made with chicken, mutton, lamb, or beef, but the ham must be omitted. Veal Fricassee. — Put piece of butter size of an egg into a ket- tle, and when it begins to fry, put in the veal, season and fry brown ; 532 MEATS, then add water sufficient to cook it. When done thicken with cream and flour as for Chicken Fricassee, and the dish will be very like chicken and much cheaper. Two pounds of veal will make a dinner for six or eight if not too much bone. Or cut the veal in nice sized slices and fry in melted butter until firm but not colored ; dredge a tablespoon flour over them, add a little grated lemon peel, and grad- ually as much boiling veal stock as will cover the meat ; simmer un- til tender. Take out meat and add to the gravy a gill of boiling cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch powdered mace. Beat yolks of two eggs in a bowl ; add gradually a little of the sauce, after it has cooled a few minutes, then add it carefully to the remainder. Re- turn the meat to the sauce, and let the saucepan remain near the fire until eggs are set. Add juice of half a lemon and serve. Veal Loaf. — Three pounds leg or loin of veal and three-fourths pound salt pork, chopped finely together; roll one dozen crackers, put half of them in the veal with two eggs, season with pepper and a little salt if needed ; mix all together and make into a solid form ; then take the crackers that are left and spread smoothly over the outside; bake one hour, basting occasionally, and serve cold in slices. Beef Loaf is made same. Some pack in deep baking dish and season with cinnamon, sage, celerv, summer savory or nutmeg, and bake. This is also called Veal Pate. For Veal Cakes make the same mixture into little cakes or balls and fry in kettle of hot fat. Lean pork may be used if the veal is fat, and some use only veal. Veal Olives. — Take the bone out of fillet and cutthin slices any size wished, beat them flat, rub with beaten yolk of egg, lay on each piece a thin slice of boiled ham, sprinkle salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and bread-crumbs over all, roll up tight, and secure with skewers, single-bread, lay in dripping-pan, and set in oven ; when brown on one side, turn, and when sufficiently done, put them in a rich highly seasoned gravy and stew till tender. Take out skewers and serve, garnished with Force-meat Balls and green pickles, sliced. Or take one and a half pounds of veal, trim off the edges and fat, cut in strips three inches wide and four long, season to taste with salt and pepper ; chop the trimmings and fat, add three table- spoons cracker dust, salt and pepper, and butter enough to mix ; spread this over the strips of meat, roll and tie in shape, and dredge well with flour. Fry them brown in pork fat and put them in an- other pan that can be covered. In the fat stir one tablespoon flour, brown, add a pint beef broth, stir for two or three minutes, and pour all over the olives ; cover and let all simmer two hours. To serve, cut the strings, place olives on the dish and pour the gravy over. Beef Olive.9 made the same, adding teaspoon sage and summer eavory to the dressing. MEATS, 533 Veal Oysters. — Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into pieces the size of an oyster. Rub a seasoning of pepper, salt and a little mace mixed over each piece ; single-bread and fry as oysters. Veal Pie. — Cut two pounds cutlets into square pieces, and sea- son with pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; put in a pudding dish with two tablespoons minced savory herbs sprinkled over, and one or two slices of lean bacon or ham placed on top ; if possible this should be previously cooked, as undressed bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little water, cover with crust, ornament as fancied ; brush over with yolk of an egg, and bake in a well heat- ed oven for about one and 'one-half hours. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by removing the top ornament, and re- placing it after the gravy is added. For a Veal and Ham Pie., cut the veal and ham in thin slices, lay a slice of ham, about one-third the slice of the veal on the latter, season with seasoning as above, and roll them up and place them in the dish, add water and chopped (not sliced) hard-boiled eggs, place on the crust and bake in a mod- erate heat, the same as for Beefsteak Pie. If the ham is very salt use less salt and more pepper in the seasoning. Parsley is a great favorite generally with veal. Those wishing it can add it ; also force- meat balls. Catsup, either mushroom or tomato or a little Worces- tershire sauce, may also be added. Some are very fond of sausage meat added to the veal pie ; but all these are mere matters of taste. For a Veal and Oyster Pie procure a pound flank or neck of veal, cut in small pieces and stew until tender in just enough water to cover. Chop an onion with a little parsley and add with the pork also cut up, salt and pepper and last a spoonful of thickening and a cup milk. Take from fire and turn it into a shallow pan that will hold one and one-half or two quarts. Then scatter a cup oysters and their liquor over the top, sprinkle a little more pepper and a dust of flour from the dredger, and cover with a crust. Bake about half an hour. The crust may be made by rubbing a small cup minced suet with a heaping cup flour and a pinch salt, and mixing with luke- warm water, or with lard and flour in about the same measures, mix- ed up very cold. Veal Pot-Pie. — Put two or three pounds veal (a piece with ribs is good), cut in a dozen pieces, in a quart cold water; make a quart soda-biscuit dough ; take two-thirds of dough, roll to a fourth of an inch thick, cut in strips one inch wide by three long ; pare and slice six potatoes ; boil veal till tender, take out all but three or four pieces, put in two handfuls of potatoes and several strips of dough, then add pieces of veal and dough, seasoning with salt, pepper, and a little butter, until all the veal is in pot ; add boiling water enough to cover, take rest of dough, roll out to size of pot, cut several holes to let steam escape, and place over the whole. Put on a tight lid and boil gently twenty or thirty minutes without uncovering. Or, 534 MEAT3. cut a half pound salt pork in thin slices about an inch square and fry brown ; cut three pounds breast of veal in tu'o-inch slices, season with salt and pepper, and roll in flour ; when pork is brown add veal to it, stir together over fire for two minutes ; pour over a quart boil- ing water, season with two teaspoons salt and a saltspoon pepper, and cook slowly until the veal is tender. Meantime, peel two quarts potatoes, and slice rather thin; leave half in cold water until the veal is cooked, and boil the rest in salted boiling water until soft enough to be rubbed through a colanderwith a potato-masher ; while rubbng them through the colander, add two tablespoons Imtter, and mix with them about half a pint milk and sufficient flour to form a paste which can be rolled and cut out. ^^llen the veal is tender lay a piece of this potnto paste about an inch thick in the bottom of a deep earthen pudding-dish, and fill the dish with alternate layers of veal and raw sliced potatoes. Pour into the dish the broth in which the veal was cooked, lay on the top the rest of the potato paste, brush it with beaten egg, and set the dish in a hot oven until the paste is brown. Serve pot-pie hot in dish in which it is cooked. Veal Roll. — Spread a thin veal cutlet with a dressing of bread- crumbs, moistened with a little melted butter, and seasoned lightly with salt, pepper and summer savory ; roll the cutlet up, tie with a fine cord; bake till done, basting thoroughly ; when cold, remove the cord and cut into slices. Veal Stevj. — HaVe bones of breast of veal cracked, so that it can be easily carved, dust with flour, put over the fire in a dripping- pan containing enough hot butter to prevent burning, and brown it quickly on both sides ; pour over enough Doiling water to cover, season with a teaspoon of salt and a dust of cayenne pepper, turn another pan over it, and stew it gently for an hour; meantime shell green pease enough to cover it ; after the veal has cooked an hour put in the pease and cook them until tender, then serve them with the veal laid on them, first seasoning both palatably. Or rice may be boiled and served with it instead of the pease. Or boil two and a half pounds of breast of veal one hour in water enough to cover ; add a dozen potatoes, and cook half an hour ; before taking off" stove, add pint milk and flour enough to thicken ; season to taste. If preferred make a crust as for chicken-pie, bake in two pie pans, place one of the crusts on the platter, pour over the stew, and place the other on top. For another stew, take best end of a neck ; cut in pieces, season \Wth salt and pepper, and stew in just enough water to cover ; when done, make a gravy with flour and butter ,i,j^ stirred together, and add the water ' in wliich the veal was stewed, sea- stcwed Kauckie of v.ai. souiug to tastc. For Stevjccl Knuckle of Veal, cook whole as in first recipe and serve on a bed of pease. MEATS. 635 For Stewed Fillet of Veal, procure a small, fat fillet, remove the bone, and stuff it with half pint bread-crumbs, mixed with two ounces suet, a little parsley, chopped onion, lemon-thyme, grated lemon peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Reserve some of the dressing, moisten it a little, make into small balls, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in deep lard. Skewer the fillet nicely, and put in kettle, with plate underneath to prevent sticking ; add a carrot and onion sliced, pep- per-corns, salt, and mace ; cover with cold water, and stew slowly. Take up when done, strain a pint of the liquor for gravy, and thicken with four tablespoons flour, rubbed smooth with two tablespoons butter, and add enough cream to make i. a rich white. Or the meat may be glazed. Garnish with the balls and thin slices of lemon ; pour the gravy over the veal. Loin of veal maybe stewed same way. For Creoled Veal take six pounds fat veal, and cut in pieces about the size for stewing; sprinkle with flour, and fry brown. In same vessel cut up and fry one onion and two cloves of garlic ; add one pint prepared tomatoes, one teaspoon each pepper and salt. When nearly done, cut up and add a sprig of parsley. Will require two and one half or three hours slow cooking. Blanqiiette of Veah — Cut three pounds breast of veal in pieces two inches square ; put in enough cold water to cover, with teaspoon white pepper, teaspoon salt, bunch of sweet herbs, half a carrot scraped, a turnip peeled, and an onion stuck with three cloves ; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully and cook gently thirty or forty min- utes, till the veal is tender ; then drain it, returning broth to fire, and washing the meat in cold water. Meantime make a white sauce by stirring together over the fire tablespoon each butter and flour, till smooth, adding pint ftnd a half of the broth gradually; season with more salt and pepper if required, and quarter saltspoon grated nutmeg ; v/hen the sauce has boiled up well, stir in with egg- whip yolks of two raw eggs, put in the meat and cook five minutes, stirring oc- casionally ; a fcAV mushrooms are a great improvement, or it may be served with two tablespoons chopped parsley sprinkled over after it is put on a hot plater. Boiled Breast of Veal. — If the sweet-bread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water two hours ; then skewer it to the veal ; put into a saucepan, with boiling water to cover, let it boil up, and carefully remove the scum as it rises ; add a handful chopped pars- ley, teasi)oon pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Draw it back, and simmer gently till done. Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsle}^ sauce over it. Send boiled ba- con to table on a separate dish. Braised Fillet of Veal. — Lard the top of the fillet with bacon as thickly as possible. Cut a carrot, turnip and head of celery into small pieces and put into a braising, or ordinary copper saucepan. Pour one and one-half pints stock over them, add a few pepper-corns 535 MEATS. and teaspoon salt, and lay the fillet upon the vegetables which should be arranged thickly enough to lift the meat quite above the stock. Place the braising-pan over a quick fire, and baste the fillet constant- ly until the stock boils ; then cover the fillet with a sheet of kitchen paper, cut to the size of the braising-pan, close the lid of pan and place in a quick oven, wiiere let remain for an hour and a quarter. While in the oven the lid of tlie pan and the paper covering should be raised and the fillet basted frequently with the stock. Cook an hour and a half, take up the meat on a hot platter and put the brais- ing-pan over a quick fire, until the stock is reduced to half the quan- tity, when it should be poured through a strainer around the meat and all sent quickly to the table. Braise any other part of veal same. Fricandeau of Veal. — The veal for a fricandcau should be of best quality, or it will not be good. Take off skin, flatten veal on table, then, at one stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife make tv.'o or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning ; lard it thickly with fat bacon, Slice two carrots and two large onions, a bunch sweet herbs, two blades pounded mace, six whole allspice, two bay leaves and pepper to taste, in the middle of a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon on top ; forming a sort of mold in center for the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over it a little salt, and pour in just enough stock to cover the bacon, etc., without touching the veal. Bring gradually to a boil, then put it over a slow fire, and simmer very gently for about two and a half hours, or longer should it be very large Baste frequentlv with the liqut)r, and a short time be- fore serving, put it into a brisk oven, to make bacon firm, which otherwise would break when it was glazed. Dish fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off fat from liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the fricandeau, and serve with a puree of whatever vege- table happens to be in season — spijiach, sorrel, asparagus, cucum- ber, pease, etc. Or, for a more economical dish, cut away the lean part of the best end of neck of veal with sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones over the fire with enough water to moisten the fricandeau and stew an hour. Lard the veal and place in kettle on top of bacon and vegetables as above, pour gravy from bones over, taking care that it does not touch the veal, stew very gently three hours, glaze, and serve as above. Or, some use a slice from the fillet two inches thick and after larding fry it brown on all sides in a little butter, with the sliced onion and carrot and teaspoon each pepper and summer savory; then add a lialf pint stock and bake in oven till done, basting often. Serve with strained gravy from pan poured over, thickened if liked. Orenadines of Veal. — Cut two pounds fillet of veal into oval pieces about half an inch thick and lard with thin strips of bacon* MEATS. 537 cook in a pint white stock with a carrot, turnip and onion cut in small pieces, and finish as above, browning in oven, and turning re- duced and strained gravy over. Quenelles of Veal. — Cut a pound fillet of veal into small pieces and pound in a mortar, then put through a sieve, add a tablespoon butter and two of flour and stir in two well-beaten eggs and a gill of stock with a seasoning of pepper and salt and any spices liked. Make into balls or any shapes desired with floured hands and put in a frying-pan carefully, to preserve their shape ; pour in at the side as much boiling water as will cover the quenelles, place over a slow fire and poach ten minutes. Melt in a small saucepan a tablespoon butter, stir in two tablespoons flour, add by degrees a gill of stock and let all boil. When boiling, pour in a gill of cream, season with pepper and salt, take from fire and add teaspoon lemon juice. Ar- range quenelles in a circle upon a flat dish, and pour the sauce around them. When a mortar is not at hand parboil the veal in a little boiling stock and chop fine before putting through the sieve. Rissoles of Veal. — Remove skin from one pound fillet of veal, chop it very fine and pound well in a mortar. Put into a bowl three- quarters pint bread-crumbs, pour a half pint milk over, and soak ten minutes ; put the bread-crumbs in a towel and squeeze as dry as possible. Then mix the crumbs with the pounded veal, season with saltspoon powdered mace, half teaspoon each pepper and salt, drop in yolks of two eggs, and beat together with a quarter pound finely chopped suet. Roll into small balls, dip each in beaten whites of two eggs, then into sifted bread-crumbs and fry about ten minutes in hot fat. Make a sauce of half pint white stock, thickened with melted butter and flour made smooth, season to taste and serve ris- soles on hot platter with sauce poured over. Prepare cold veal same. Roast Fillet of%Veal. — Rub two tablespoons salt and half tea- spoon pepper into the veal ; then fill the cavitv from which the bone was taken,with Ham Force-meat or any stuffing liked ; skewer and tie >jj^^^^^^^^^ the fillet in round shape. Cut a r^_^^^^^^^^^^ ^^If pound salt pork in thin slices, ^^^^^H.iP^i)iv;jj|ljj|p^^^ g^jj^ p^^ j^j^lf Q^ ^ ^j^ sheet that y^^^^ '::'^'^^^i^;--||i|i;|^^Br^,,,^ will fit in dripping-pan ; place this ^| g;;li^^:p'-^'i;iM|^^ in pan, and fillet on it ; cover veal """^^^^ ' Pinetofveai. "^^ '^ wlth remainder of pork; put hot water enough in pan to just cover the bottom, and place in oven. Bake slowly four hours, basting frequently with gravy in pan, season with salt and white pepper. As water in pan cooks away, it must be renewed, remembering to have only enough to keep meat and pan from burning. After cooking three hours, take pork from top of fillet and spread thickly with butter and dredge with flour. Repeat this after thirty minutes, and then brown handsomely. Put about 538 MEATS. three tablespoons butter in saucepan and when hot add two heaping tablespoons flour, and stir until dark brown. Add to it a half pint stock or water ', stir a minute, and set back where it will keep warm, but not cook. Take up fillet, and skim all fat off gravy ; add water enough to make a half pint gravy, also the sauce just made. Let this boil up, and add the juice of half a lemon, and more salt and pepper, if needed. Strain, and pour around the fillet. Garnish the dish with potato puffs and slices of lemon. Roast Loin of Veal. — Wash and rub thoroughly with salt and pepper, leaving in the kidney, around which put plenty of salt ; roll up, let stand two hours ; in the meantime make a dressing of bread- crumbs, salt, pepper and chopped parsley or thyme moistened with a little hot water and Initter — some prefer choj^ped salt pork — add- ing an egg. Unroll the veal, put dressing well around kidney, fold, and secure well with several yards white cotton twine, covering the meat in all directions ; place in the drii)ping-pan with the thick side down, put to bake in a rather hot oven, graduating it to moderate heat afterward ; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan and baste often; in another half hour turn roast, and when nearly done, dredge lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. Before serving, carefully remove the twine. A four-pound roast thus pre- pared will bake tender in about two hours. To make the gravy, skim off fat if there is too much in the drippings, dredge some flour in the pan, stir until it browns, add some hot Avater if necessary, boil a few moments and serve in gravy-boat. This roast is very nice to slice down cold for Sunday dinners. Serve with green pease and lemon jelly. The loin is also roasted on a bed of vegetables, as beef, and may be stuffed with a Veal Force-meatinsteadof the bread dressing. Some prefer to apply a mixture of melted butter and flour, twice as much of the former asthe latter,to the veal in cooking, using a pastry brush in putting it on. The breast of veal Ijgjned, with a layer of force-meat spread over the inside, rolled and tightly bound is nice roasted same. For a plain roast loin have every joint thoroughly cut, and between each lay a slice of salt pork ; roast a fine brown, so that the edges of the pork will be crisp, basting often ; season with pepper — the pork will make it salt enough. The shoulder may be roasted, with bone removed and stuffed, same as loin or fill the bone cavity with onions, peeled and sliced, seasoned with salt and pepper ; or equal quantities of bread-crumbs and onions may be used. Nicely peeled and rounded potatoes may be baked in pan Avith roast veal, turning to brown both sides. Serve shoulder with gravy as above. Veal with Oysters. — Fry two pounds tender veal cut in thin bits, and dredged with flour, in sufficient hot butter or lard to pre- vent sticking; Avhen nearly done add one and a half pints fine oys- ters, thicken with flour, season with salt aad pepper, and cook until done. Serve hot in covered dish. MEATS. 539 Calfs Brains. — For cleaning and blanching brains preparatory to cooking follow directions given in Cutting and Curing Meats., As the whiter and finer they are the more delicate the dish, the pro- cess called double-blanching is recommended, Sheep's brains are equally as nice as calf's, and those of beef may be used but are ■ coarser and more inclined to be tough or stringy. Broth from the head should be utilized for making the gravy to accompany dishes of brains and gives a much richer flavor than if of milk or water. Scrambled Brains. — Double-blanch them. To the beaten yolks of four eggs add a little chopped parsley, the brains crumbled in small pieces and the well-frothed whites. Stir in frying-pan, in which a little butter or fat has been heated, like scrambled eggs. Nice served on toast, and rendered yet more excellent by pouring some good, well seasoned gravy over all. Stewed Brains. — Put two or three slices bacon in stewpan with the brains, an onion stuck with two cloves, small bunch parsley, and seasoning of pepper and salt; covei with some of the broth, and boil gently about twenty-five minutes. Have ready some croutons, arrange in dish alternately with the brains, and place in oven to keep warm. Add to broth in stewpan, an onion sliced and fried in a little butter, enough more broth to make one pint liquid, bunch of sweet herbs, half a bay leaf, two allspice, a clove, salt and pepper. Simmer gently a few minutes, skim out spices, etc., and add tablespoon lem- on juice or vinegar and a few stewed mushrooms, if liked, and pour at once over the dish of brains Butter may be used instead of ba- con. The croutons want to be the same size of the brains, and a more elaborate sauce may be made called Supreme Sauce : Take one quart white sauce, a few mushrooms and two quarts chicken broth, boil carefullj'" and quickly till reduced to two quarts. Add the yolks of six eggs, and strain. Return to saucepan and boil up once ; add juice of a lemon and a little butter and pour immediately over the prepared brains. Brain Fritters. — Boil brains in a cloth, chop fine, and beat up with an egg, teaspoon flour, three tablespoons sweet milk, and little nutmeg; have ready a frying-pan of hot lard, and drop in the mix- ture so as to make the fritters size of a half dollar. Or divide the brains in small pieces, dip in fritter batter (see Fritters) and fry as above ; or when perfectly cold beat the brains to a paste, add eggs and flour to make good batter, scant teaspoon fresh, sweet butter, to prevent toughness, and fry as Fritters, or on a griddle like cakes. The}'' are also nice single-breaded and fried as Brain Croquettes, either by immersion or in little butter or drippings. They will look like sweet-breads and are quite as delicate. Some soak before frying in a mixture of oil, salt and vinegar, drying with a cloth and frying as above, prepared in any of above ways. They are delicious served surrounded by cooked pease, either fresh or canned. 540 MEATS. Brains and Tongue. — Blanch and chop the brains, and put in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, a little chopped parsley. juice of half a lemon, salt and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim the boiled tongue, place in middle of dish and pour the sauce and brains round it. If liked a tablespoon each chopped parsley , capers and gherkins, and teaspoon very finely chopped onion may be added to the sauce. Garnish with parsley, mace, pickles or slices of lemon. Or, after blanching put the brains in quart cold water with teaspoon salt and tablespoon vinegar and boil fifteen minutes, and when cold serve with a cold tongue, the latter in center of dish and brains cut in t^Y0 and placed at the sides. Pour tartare sauce round them and garn- ish as above. For Brain and Tongue Pudding, line a baking dish with good paste and put in a layer of thinly-sliced cooked tongue, then a la3'er of chopped brain, add a seasoning of salt, pep- per, a little chopped onion and parsley. Do this alternately till dish is filled. On the top put slices of hard-boiled egg ; moisten by adding a teaspoon flour mixed smoothh^ in a quarter pint milk. Steam an hour or bake half an hour. A fresh cucumber, pared and sliced, may be put in the pudding, if liked. Calfs Ears. — Take a couple of calf's ears that have been cut off deeplv from head, trim nicely, scald off hair, and cleanse very thoroughly. Drain on sieve, and then boil in milk and water till tender. Fill the insides with nicely prepared Veal Force-meat, tie them, and stew half an hour in a pint stock seasoned with pepper, salt, and an onion stuck with three cloves. Drain again and add to the liquor in which they were boiled twelve stewed mushrooms, ,yolk of an egg beaten in cup cream, and remove the onion and cloves. Dish up the ears, pour the sauce round them, and garnish with force- meat balls and slices of lemon. A very pretty side entree. Or they may be served without sauce, and merely eaten with oil and vinegar. Calf^s Feet — Clean as directed for Pig's Feet ; blanch and boil till tender, and for Fricaseed Feet^ cut in two and take out bones ; to half pint good white gravy, add tablespoon each flavored vinegar lemon pickle, salt and teaspoon curry powder; stew the feet in it fifteen minutes, and thicken with yolks of two eggs, gill of milk, a tablespoon butter and two of white flour ; shake the stewpan over the fire a few minutes, but do not boil or the eggs and milk will curdle. Save liquor feet were boiled in for enriching gravies, making gla:^, jellies, etc. The feet of sheep and beef may be cooked same as calf's, but are not so nice. Any of them may be cooked like recipes for Pig's Feet. For Fried i^er?*, prepare as for Fricasseed Feet, then cut in tAvo-inch pieces, dredge well with flour and fry a light brown in butter or drippings ; put a little chopped parsley and butter over and garnish with fried parsley. Some press the feet under a weight overnight before frying. They are nice also dipped in fritter batter and fried in hot fat ; or seasoned with salt, cayenne, chopped pars- MEATS. 641 ley, single-breaded and fried as Feet Croquettes. Drain, dish on a napkin and garnish with parsley. A nice dish is made of Stewed Feet. Procure four calf's or twelve sheep's feet; prepare as above. . Take out large bones. Put a quarter pound beef or mutton suet in stewpan with two onions and a carrot sliced, two sprigs of thyme, two bay leaves, plenty of salt and pepper and simmer five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, two and a half quarts water, and stir till it boils ; put in the feet, simmer three hours, or until perfectly ten- der,takethem out and lay on a sieve. Mix together on a plate with back of spoon tablespoon each butter and flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg and juice of one lemon. Put tlie feet, Wj.th a gill of milk, into a stewpan, and when very hot, add the butter, etc., and stir till melted. Mix yolks of two eggs with five tablespoons milk and add to other in- gredients, keep stirring over the fire a minute or two, but do not boil after eggs are added. Serve in deep dish. Or take out the bones without injuring the skin, stuff" them with a fine force-meat and stew half an hour in some of the stock, which must be well flavored with onion season with pepper and salt and a little sauce ; reduce to a glaze, and brush it over the feet. Serve with any stewed vegetable. CaWs Head. — Comparatively few housekeepers know how many really dainty dishes can be prepared from calf's head. For hints as to purchasing, turn to Marketing, and for directions for cleaning, blanching, skinning, boning, etc., see Cutting and Curing Meats. Almost every part of the head can be used, though there is some tough white meat about the mouth to be removed, a small part around the eye, and some bits of gristle. The water or broth in which the head has been boiled should be saved for soup, though a part of it is of course used for making the gravy which accompanies the dish. Lamb's or Sheep's head can be cooked the same as calf's, after any of the recipes given, the meat from two of the former about equaling that from one of the latter. Beef's head may also be used, but must be soaked in salted water overnight, will require longer boiling and will not of course make so delicate a dish. Only half the meat from a beef's head will be required in recipes where that of a calf's is given. To give the desired acid flavor generally liked with calf's head use the sour cooking wine of foreign manu- facture or any of the flavored vinegars preferred (see Pickles). Baked Head. — After blanching, halve the head carefully, cutting down between the ears, lay in dripping-pan, cover with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and bake in hot oven, basting frequently. Make a sauce of draAvn butter, chopped hard-boiled eggs, the mashed brain, a little red "pepper, and some parsley. When the head is done, serve on a flat dish, smothered in the sauce. Sorhe prefer to brush the head over with two beaten yolks of eggs before covering with bread-crumbs, and sprinkle over also powdered mace, nutmeg, and pepper and salt ; put the brains in with the head, first dipping 542 MEATS. in melted butter ; put a little good gravy, stock, or water if neither is at hand, in pan, cover closely and bake in hot oven, removing cover long enough before done to brown nicely. Serve with a sauce poured round it, made as follows : Slightly brown two or three sliced onions or shallots in butter ; add tablespoon flour, some brown gravy or stock, a carrot thinly sliced, little chopped parsley, bay leaf, rind and juice of half a lemon, white pepper, and salt. Simmer all one half hour, and pass through coarse strainer. Put back in sauce pan, heat through, and add small piece butter, tablespoon any flavored vinegar liked, lump of sugar, and more lemon juice and cayenne if not piquant in taste. Or garnish with sliced lemons and send on with it any good gravy liked in a boat. For Stuffed Calfs Heady procure a head cut off about a finger length behind the ears, with the skin unbroken, sew up the places from which the eyes have been removed, salt it Avell outside and in and set aside while mak- ing the stufling. Boil a smoked beei's tongue, the fresh calfs tongue and some mushrooms till soft, chop fine and add sufficient rich white sauce to make a smooth dressing, and put on ice till very cold ; cliop fine three pounds cooked veal with dried herbs, sage, parsley, etc. Open the head on the under side and put in half the veal, then the dress- ing prepared as above, and fill up with remainder of veal. Sew the edges of the opening together and close the back of head or neck by sewing on a piece of bacon cut to fit. Rub all over with lemon juice and cover with ver}' thin slices of bacon, Avrap in a cloth and bind well with a network of twine. Put in a pan Avith half pint each vine- gar and water, cover with another pan, or put in a closed roasting pan, and bake in slow oven two or three hours, ^^^len done take off cloth and bacon, dredge with flour and let brown. Serve on platter garnished with parsley, or with mushrooms and potato balls, and send on with it a good rich gravy. Boiled Head. — Put in a kettle, cover with hot water, let boil a few minutes and skim carefully; then place where it will simmer gently until tender. Serve with drawn butter and parsley and garn- ish with slices of lemon. Or for Broi^ned Head, boil as above and when tender score the surface by making slight cuts over it an inch and a half apart, cover with beaten yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, mixed powdered thyme and parsley and pepper and salt. Set in oven to brown, and when it begins to look brown baste once with a little melted butter. Garnish with thin slices of bacon, curled. The water in which the head is boiled should be kept for soup. Another nice way of preparing is to blanch, drain and tie head and brains in cloth and boil in salted water until bones can be removed ; the brains will be done sooner and must be taken out. Take meat from bones and put with the onions in deep buttered dish, season with MEATS. 543 pepper, salt and spices to taste, put bits of butter over and dust with flour. Pour half pint of the broth with four tablespoons flavored vinegar over the meat and bake three-quarters of an hour, or until very brown, basting well. For Molded HeoA^ cut the meat from the boiled head into thin slices, or any remains will do. Butter a tin mold, cut yolks of hard-boiled eggs in half and put some of them around the edge in any shapes fancied, sprinkle salt, pepper, mixed Bpice, and chopped parsley over, then put in the meat of the head with thin slices of ham or bacon in layers, adding occasionally more eggs and spice till all of head is used. Pour in half pint good white gravy, cover the top with a thin paste of flour and vf ater, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Take oft' the paste, and when cold, turn out of the mold and serve. Or, chop the meat and eggs fine and pack in mold in alternate layers, and pour the gravy over, which may be flavored with a little lemon juice, minced parsley and catsup. Broiled Head. — Cut a blanched calf's head into pieces three inches wide, place in a saucepan, cover with water, add four table- spoons vinegar, and simmer half an hour ; then put in cold water a feAV minutes, dry on a towel, rub a little salad-oil over each piece, and broil. When done, brush melted butter over them and juice of half a lemon. Collared Head. — Bone a calf's head carefully, wash it well, and wipe dry ; lay the meat on table, and spread on it a force-meat made of the brain and tongue and a very little ham mixed with a table- spoon chopped parslej^, teaspoon each thyme and marjoram, chop- ped yolks of three hard-boiled eggs,tablespoon or two flavored vinegar, a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. Roll up as tightly as possible, and tie in a cloth, binding with tape. Putin saucepan with stock enough to cover: a carrot, parsnip, onion, sliced lemon, a few bay leaves, salt, and a dozen bruised peppers, and boil gently three hours ; then take it out of the cloth, dish and pour round it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in which it was boiled, with a little lemon juice, two small pickles, and four button mushrooms choiDped fine. Some boil the head about two hours before removing the bones, and an- other way of collaring is to sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a la^^er of thick slices of ham, then yolks of six hard-boiled eggs cut m thin rings, and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nut- meg and white pepper between each layer ; roll in a cloth as above and boil four hours ; when taken out of the pot, place a heavy weight on top and let remain till cold ; then remove the cloth and binding, and serve sliced cold with any salad or dressing liked. Some spread simpl}^ with alternate laj'ers of sliced ham and chopped parsley seasoned with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt. If to be kept more than a day or two, place in jar and cover with vinegar and water. Fricasseed Head. — Remove all bones from a boiled head and cut the meat into nice square pieces or slices. Put a pint and a half 544 . MEATS. of liquor in which head was boiled in saucepan with blade of pounded mace, a chopped onion, bunch savory lierbs, and salt and white pepper to taste ; simmer gently three-quarters of an hour, strain and Eut in the meat, and four hard-boiled eggs, sliced, if liked ; when eated through, thicken gravy with a little flour made smooth with butter, and flavor with a tablespoon mushroom catsup ; or, just be- fore dishing, add beaten yolks oi two eggs and tablespoon lemon juice ; be careful after these are added that the mixture does not boil or the eggs will curdle. To insure the sauce being smooth take up the meat before adding eggs and when the eggs are set turn the sauce over the meat. Garnish with Force-meat Balls and curled slices of broiled bacon Or omit all seasonings save the pepper and salt and add a halt teaspoon grated nutmeg, garnishing with parsley or sliced lemon, or sprinkling chopped parsley over. Some put in with the meat the cold boiled tongue, sliced, and garnish with Brain Fritters and curled bacon. Two anchovies may be boiled with the onion, which is sometimes left whole and stuck with three cloves, omitting the herbs. Sweet-breads, if at hand, may be sliced and put in with the meat. Both the brains and feet may be used in a fricas- see as follows : Remove the brains and put the head and feet in salted water, and boil two hours. When they have boiled nearly an hour and a half, tie the blanched brains in a cloth and put them in the pot with the rest. At end of two hours take the whole from the fire, mash the brains fine with the back of a spoon, season with pejiper and salt, add bread-crumbs, tablespoon flavored vinegar, and serve them as a sauce for the meat. Send to table very hot. The liquor that remains can be made into an excellent soup. Potted Head. — Procure half a head and soak it in salt and water, taking care to cleanse it thoroughly from blood; add two good coav- hcels, well cleaned. Put all into a large stewpan, cover with cold water and boil till tender; strain the liquor off, and when cold cut the meat into very small pieces. Skim off all the fat from the water in which the head and heels were boiled, put the prepared meat with it, and boil the whole slowly till tender and thick — about five and a half hours. Then boil it up quickly, add pepper and salt to taste, and a little powdered mace, and put into pots as in Potted Meats. Scalloped Head. — After boiling till meat is tender, cut in small pieces and place in an earthen pudding dish a layer of bread-crumbs, season, then a layer of meat with bits of butter, then crumbs, and so on, with crumbs for last layer; pour a cup of the broth over all and bake in oven till heated through and nicely browned. Steiced Head. — Cut the meat from a blanched calf's head into neat slices, and simmer gently in as little water as possible two hours; take out the pieces of meat, place on a hot dish, and cover them with tartare sauce,to which the juice left in pan has been added ; MEATS. 545 garnish with parsley. Or boil the head before boning, then bone and cut the meat in pieces two inches square. Make a sauce by stirring together in saucepan over the fire two tablespoons each but- ter and flour until smoothly blended and lightly browned; then gradually add a pint of the hot liquor in which head was boiled, stirring until smooth ; season with quarter of a saltspoon grated nutmeg, a saltspoon salt, and pinch cayenne. When sauce begins to bubble, put in calf s head and heat it ; then move to back of range, stir in yolks of three eggs, one at a time, and serve at once. Do not let the sauce boil after tlie yolks are added, or they may curdle, and spoil its appearance. Garnish with sprigs of parsley, or a little chopped parsley ma}' be sprinkled over ; or sliced lemon may be used. Or make a sauce by boiling together a cup broth or stock in which calf's head was boiled, tablespoonful butter, six of vinegar, and thicken with teaspoon corn-starch, adding salt and cayenne. Put in the pieces of calf's head and warm through without boiling. Add a chopped gherkin and garnish the dish with quarters of hard- boiled eggs, or a little chopped egg sprinkled over. Or boil a pint milk, thicken slightly witli flour, add pepper, salt, butter and a little mace ; have both the meat from head and the tongue chopped in small pieces, put them in sauce and simmer ten minutes. Serve in hot deep dish garnished witli chopped parsle}' and sliced hard-boiled eggs. An addition to any of the abcfve is to reserve the lower jaw whole, bone it, single-bread as a chop, sprinkling over a little chopped parsley, brown in oven and serve on center of stew. Another excel- lent stew is prepared by boiling the head in salted boiling water three hours, remove bones and cut the meat in about half dozen same- sized pieces. Boil the tongue half an hour and the liver and blanched brains fifteen minutes in quart water with teaspoon salt and table- spoon vinegar. Put a frying-pan over fire with butter enough to cover bottom, sprinkle thickly with flour, and when it begins to brown put in the pieces of head with part of the liver, sliced, and brown them, keeping tongue and brains hot in broth in which they were boiled; pour over head and liver enough broth to cover, adding four tablespoons flavored vinegar, level teaspoon finely powdered marjoram or any herb, level saltspoon each powdered mace, nutmeg ' and pepper, a dust of cayenne and salt to taste ; stev/ gently ten minutes, meantime making some Egg Balls, which add to the stew and when done serve in deep platter garnished with tongue and re- mainder of liver, sliced, and brains cut in two or three pieces, or made into Brain Fritters. When a beef's head is to be used it should be boned the day before it is wanted and laid overnight in salt and water. Boil gently in water to cover until tender, then slice and fry three onions in a little butter and flour and add to the meat with two whole onions, each stuck with three cloves, three turnips, quar- tered, two sliced carrots, a bay leaf, head of celery, bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste of cayenne, black pepper and salt. Stew till 546 MEATS. perfectly tender ; then take out the meat, cut in pieces ready to serve, skira and strain the grav}'-, and thicken one and a half pints with a tablespoon butter mixed with two dessert-spoons flour. Add two tablespoons each Chili vinegar and mushroom catsup, and same of any piquant sauce liked. Boil all up together, and serve hot. CaWs Head Cheeae. — Boil the head till tender, and koop the broth boiling while removing the m^at from bones; cut tongue in larger bits, the rest quite small, skim the broth carefully and af- ter it has boiled down to a little over a pint put in some salt, a red pepper cut very small, and some chopped parsley ; then add the meat. Put all in a deep dish with a plate over it, and a weight on that to keep it pressed down. Slice thin and serve for luncheon or tea. For Spiced Cheese cook as above, adding spices to taste while Itoiling; when partly cold add cup vinegar. This will keep a long time in cold weather. For Head Croquettes, boil pint milk, add the chopped boiled meat from the head and the parboiled brain, seasoned with a little mace, salt or pepper, and parsley, simmer a few minutes ; then add three well-beaten eggs and a teaspoon corn- starch and stir quickly to mix thoroughly. Cook about five min- utes and cool on flat dish, form into balls or cones, single-bread and fry a delicate brown in a wire basket as illustrated, or for small croqivettes one made of woven-wire is bet- ter. Or ior Spiced Croquettes cut the hhdnched calf's head into pieces two inches wide ; lay for three hours in a pickle made of three tablespoons each lemon iuice and water, salt and pepper, and a pinch of mace. Take tiiem out, drain, single-bread and fry in hot fat, and send to table with tartar sauce. Or for plain Breakfast Cakes chop the hailed meat fine ; add a small onion and some chopped parsley. Heat cup broth, put in chopped meat, let boil, and thicken with a little flour. Put on flat dish to cool ; form into flat cakes, single-bread and fry till brown in a frying-pan with a little butter or drippings. For Fritters, make batter of pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon baking-pow- der, small lump of ice to keep batter cool, flour enough till it will drop, not run from spoon, and two cups of chopped meat as above. Fry in hot fat. A nice cold dish is made froma boiled head in the shape ■; -^S cover the meat with it, going over it a second Glazing Brush. time if ncccssarv after first coat has become cold. In roasting meat if it is not evenly and nicely browned, brush over with glaze just before serving and it will give required finish. Roux. — This may be made as wanted for use, but is convenient to have at hand. For making White Boux melt a half pound but- ter slowly, skim, let settle, then pour in clean saucepan over fire and when hot dredge in slowly two cups sifted flour. Stir rapidly until })erfectly smooth and thoroughly cooked, but do not let brown ; some use an egg whisk for stirring, Put away in ajar. Broum Roiix is made same, stirring over fire until a bright brown, but not scorch- ed. Use for thickening gravies, sauces, soups, stews, etc., by moist- ening with a little of the warm liquid then stirring into the whole, or put it into the cold liquid and it will dissolve as it heats : do not put into hot liquid witbout first moistening or it will harden into lumps instead of dissolving. GRAVIES, 559 Beef Gravy. — Cut a half pound lean beef in small pieces and put in stewpan with half pint cold water, a shallot or small onion^ half teaspoon salt and a little pepper and simmer gently three hours. A short time before done stir in half teaspoon arrowroot mixed with a little cold water, add tablespoon any sauce liked, boil up once, strain and serve. Nice for poultry, game, etc. Or cut a half pound shin of beef in very small pieces, slice half an onion and quarter of a carrot and stir in saucepan over fire with piece of butter size of walnut until slightly colored, add three-fourths pint water, two or three sprigs parsley and savory herbs, cayenne, mace and salt to taste and simmer half an hour ; skim well, strain and it is ready for use. For a Rich Beef Gravy ^ cut two pounds shin of beef and a large onion or a few shallots in thin slices, dredge with flour and fry a pale brown, but do not scorch ; add two pints boiling water, let boil and skim. Then add slice lean ham or bacon, bunch savory herbs, two blades mace, half head celery, two or three cloves, four allspice, quarter teaspoon whole pepper, cayenne and salt to taste and simmer very gently two hours, or until all juices are extracted from meat.. Set away to cool, then skim off all fat. May be flavored with catsup, bottled sauce, or anything thai will give additional relish to the dish with which it is to be served. This gravy is ex- cellent with ragouts, hashes, or any dish from cold meats. Brown Gravy. — Before serving any roast meat, let the gravy in pan dry down until grease can be poured off clear, while the glaze remains adheringto pan ; pour in water to dissolve it, and when it has boiled add a trifle of Browned Flour, to thicken if necessary though when a roast has been well dredged with flour a thickening will not be needed. Strain through a fine strainer ; serve some in dish with the roast, the rest in sauce-boat. A Cheap Brovm ^r^v// which will be found nice for warming up any kind of cold meat is made as follows : Slice three onions and fry in butter a nice brown ; toast a large, thin slice of bread slowly until quite hard and a deep brown ; put these, with any pieces of meat, bone, etc., and some herbs, on the fire with a pint and a half water, and stew down until it is as thick as liked. Season to taste, strain, and set in a cool place until wanted for use. For a Rich Brown Gravy, fry two large onions cut in rings in two tablespoons butter until a light brown ; then add two pounds shin of beef and two small slices bacon, both cut in small square pieces, and pour in cup water; boil ten minutes, or un- til a nice brown color, stirring occasionally ; add three and a half pints water, let boil up, then draw to back of range and simmer very gently an hour and a half; strain and when cold takeoff" the fat. Thicken with four tablespoons flour first made smooth and lightly browned with three tablespoons butter in another pan, and cooled ; boil the gravy up quickly, season to taste and it is ready to serve. This thickening may be imade in larger quantities and kept in stone oBO GRAVIES. iar until wanted. A Brovin Gravy without Meat is made as fol- lows . Slice, flour and fry two onions and one large carrot in two tablespoons butter till a nice light brown, add three pints boiling water, bunch savory herbs and pepper and salt. Stew gently about an hour, strain, when cold skira off all fat and stir in a thickening made as in preceeding recipe and a few drops Caramel Coloring. Carrot Gravy. — Grate a good large carrot, first washing and scraping thoroughly. Put butter size of walnut in stewpan and when just melted put in the carrot with enough stock to ma'ke of the usual consistence, adding salt, pepper, finely chopped parsley and a little lemon juice. Stew till smooth and thoroughly cooked. Economical Gravy. — Put in stewpan the chopped bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal or beel, one and one-half pints water, an onion, quarter teaspoon each chopped lemon peel., and salt and blade mace, pounded ; simmer gently an hour or more, or until liquor is reduced to a pint, then strain through hair sieve. Add thickening of butter and flour, let it just l)oil U|), squeeze in about teaspoon lemon juice, and it is ready to serve. It may be fla- vored with a little tomato sauce if at hand, or if a dark colored gravy is wanted, catsup or any bottled sauce. Or put chopped bone and trimmings from any cold joint in stewpan with quarter teaspoon each salt, whole p('i)per and whole allspice, small bunch savory her])s and half head celery, cover with boiling water and simmer gt-ntly about two hours. Slice and fry an onion in tablespoon butter till a pale brown, and mix gradually with the gravy ; boil fifteen minutes and strain, put back in stewpan, flavor with walnut \'inegar. catsup, pickled onion liquor, or any bottled sauce preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour mixed smooth on a plate, boil up once, and the gravy will be ready for use. Gihlet Gravy. — Boil the giblets — gizzard, heart and liver — with the neck in two quarts water an hour and a half, skimming if neces- sary and adding more water if it cooks av;ay too much. Take out giblets, chop fine, return to water in saucepan, first skimming out neck, and add tablespoon flour mixed smooth with a little cold water ; season and after the fowl has been taken up, add to dripping- pan placed on top of stove, adding more water if necessary, and boil five minutes, stirring constantly, scraping the sides of])an to iree the rich, savory particles that adhere. More thickening or seasoning may be needed and some add a little sweet marjoram. If too much fat in dripping-pan, skim off before adding the giblet sauce. If the giblets are not liked, or are preferred served whole, the gravy is made same, sim})ly omitting giblets and sf^rAnng thoin on- platter with the fowl. For a nice Liwr Grainy, wash the feet and neck of fowls perfectly clean, cut in small pieces and put in stewpan with a slice toasted bread, half an onion, bunch savory herbs, salt and pep- GRA^^Es. 561 per to taste and the giblets ; pour one pint water over, and simmer gently one hour. Take out the liver, pound it, and put in roasting pan with the strained liquor in which it was boiled. Add thick- ening of butter and flour, and flavoring of mushroom catsup, boil up and serve. The gizzard can be served whole with the fowl. Herb Gravy. — Take a stick of horse-radish and the leaves of a sprig each winter savory, thyme, marjoram and a little tarragon ; put in stewpan Avith pint water, four tablespoons vinegar, juice of a lemon, two thinly-sliced shallots and a clove or two. Add enough Browned Onion or Caramel Coloring to color well and simmer gently fifteen minutes after bringing to a boil. Strain, add thickening and serve hot. Or omit thickening and when quite cold pour in bottles to be served in small quantities with meats as Herb Sauce. Heidelheni Gravy. — Line a stev/pan slightly with butter, put in three sliced onions, six pounds boned fillet of veal and two pounds of boiling piece of beef and pint stock. Let all boil on brisk fire till reduced one-half, turn the meat frequently, and simmer gently. The (jlaze must n ot 1)6 overcooked \ if so the sauce will tnste disa- greeably sharp. Take stewpan off fire when meat is well glazed, cover it, and do not touch for five or six minutes in order that the glaze may dissolve quickly. Pour in six quarts more stock, l)oil well, skim and add two carrots, level tablespoon salt and saltspoon white pepper. Boil and skim, and when meat is quite done remove it, and strain the stock through a cloth. Now put into a saucepan three-fourths pound each clarified butter and flour ; mix well, put in the stock and stir with a wooden spoon till it boils. Simmer two hours Vv'ith the cover lifted off" a little. Skim twice during the sim- mering, and once more when done. Strain through a cloth and keep for use. This makes four quarts and will keep good a week or more. Instead of the meat given above a few slices lean ham, the lower part of a calf's leg and a kidney, cut in pieces, and a chicken, cut in joints, may be used, adding the carrot and parsnips also, if liked, with onion. To make Brown Heidelberg Gravy, use Browned Flour. Horse-radish Gravy. — Mix well one tablespoon each butter and flour in saucepan, add pint soup or gravy stock ; let boil till flour is well cooked ; add three or four tablespoons prepared horse-radish, pinch of sugar, a little salt and white pepper if liked. Serve at once. If grated fresh horse-radish is used add a little vinegar to gravy just before serving. Milk, broth from boiled corned beef or water may be used instead of stock. This is one of the best of gravies. Jugged Gravy. — Cut two pounds skin of beef and quarter pound lean ham in small pieces, slice an onion, or a few shallots and half a large carrot ; put meat, ham and vegetables, with seasoning of pepper and salt, in alternate layers in jar holding three pints, and 562 CTRA^^ES. "add two pints water ; cover closely so that steam will not escape and bake in oven for from six to eight h(>urs. If oven is very hot less time will be required. A good way is to put jar in oven overnight, leaving small hre, to draw out the gravy, and it will then bake in a much less time. When sufficiently cooked, strain, cool, remove fat and flavor with catsup or any bottled sauce liked. An excellent gravy. Maitre d? hotel Gravy. — Mix in saucepan two tablespoons Ma- ' trie d' hotel Butter and one of flour ; add pint milk or water, let boil and serve with boiled beef, mutton or fish. Or add only half pint milk and make a thick sauce known as Maitre d' hotal Sauce. Milk Gravy. — After frying any kind of meat, add a tablespoon flour to the fat stir well together, add pint of milk, let boil till flour is thoroughly cooked. Water may be used in place of milk, or balf and half, and butter instead of the fat. Or have a pint milk at boil- ing point and stir in a thickening of a rounded tablespoon flour, mixed smooth with cream or milk, and a beaten egg. Serve soon as it boils, as if allowed to boil a half minute, the creaminess is lost. Onion, Gravy. — Put two tablespoons butter in saucepan and when slightly browned stir in three sliced onions and fry brown. Stir in heaping teaspoon flour and fry all together a moment, then add half pint stock, seasoning of pepper and salt, and boil gently ten minutes. Skim off" all fat, add teaspoon each made mustard and vinegar and juice of half a lemon, give one boil and serve hot. Es- pecially nice with steaks. If to be poured over the steak or served as Rohert Sauce, use onlj'half as much stock and less thickening. Orange Gravy. — Put a sliced onion in stewpan with half pint stock, a few basil or bay leaves, three or four strips orange or lemon peel and simmer very gently fifteen minutes. Strain, and if not suf- ficiently flavored add juice of a Seville orange or a lemon ; season, add thickening of arrowroot or corn starch, boil up once and serve. Nice for all game. Piquant Gravy. — Put two tablespoons each chopped cucumber pickles, capers and onions in saucepan with half pint vinegar and stir over fire until vinegar has nearly all evaporated ; add two table- spoons each butter and flour rubbed smooth, two teaspoons salt, two saltspoons pepper and half as much cayenne, with pint boiling water or stock. Boil up once and serve. Tins is also known as Piquant Sauce, and a more elaborate recipe is the following: Put two tablespoons Imtter in stewpan with a small carrot and six shal- lots, sliced, bunch savory herbs, half bay leaf, two small slices lean ham, chopped fine, two cloves, six pepper-corns, blade of mace, and three Avhole allspice. Simmer all over slow fire until bottom of pan is covered with a brown glaze, stirring to prevent burning, and add four tablespoons vinesjar, half pint stock, teaspoon sugar, pinch of COLD MEATS. 663 cayenne and salt to taste. Simmer gently fifteen minutes, skim off all fat, strain and serve hot with roast meats. If not liked so acid use less vinegar. Saqe Gravy. — Chop fine a half dozen large green sage leaves, or more if the leaves are small, with two medium-sized onions. Put in stewpan with butter size of walnut, sprinkle with flour, cover closely and let steam a few minutes. Then add teaspoon vinegar, some broth or gravy, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer till the onion is tender. Capital with roast pork. Yeal Gravy. — Cut three pounds veal and two slices lean ham in small pieces, put in stewpan, moisten with little water and set over fire to extract juices ; when bottom of pan is covered with a white glaze add three pints water, bunch savory herbs, a few green onions or one large onion, blade of mace, salt to taste and a few mushrooms when obtamable. Stew very slowly three or four hours and skim well the moment it boils. Let cool, take off fat and re- heat when wanted for use. May be used as a foundation for white sauces, for fricassees, or wherever nice veal gravy or stock is wished. Venison Gravy. — Brown trimmings of venison in a little butter or fat over brisk fire and put with them three or four mutton shank bones and pint water ; simmer gently two hours, skim, strain, add two teaspoons walnut or any catsup, salt to taste, boil up and serve. Cold Meats. In America and England there is great prejudice against warmed- over food, but in France one eats it half the time in some of the most delicious "made dishes" without suspecting it. Herein lies the secret. With us the warming over is so artlessly done, that the hard fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it reposes. One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat satisfactory is the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this, as well as its presence, depends the success of the dish. The glaze, for which the recipe is given under Gravies, renders one at all times independ- ent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be de- pended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast should be saved, and great care be taken of all scraps, bones and gristle, which should be carefully boiled doAvn to save the necessity of using glaze for every purpose. Do not make into "hash" all cold )64 COLD MEATS. meat, as is the too common practice of so many American house- keepers. Hash appears to be a peculiarly American institution. In no other country is every remnant of cold meat turned into this one unvarying dish. Not only remnants but whole joints of cold meat, a roast of beef of which the tenderloin had sufficed for the first day's dinner, the leg of mutton from which a few slices onl}' have been taken, the fillet of veal, available for so many delicate dishes, are ruthlessly turned into the all-prevading hash. The curious thing is that people are even fond of it. Yet hash in itself is not a bad dish ; it is called a ])cculiav\y Amei'ican institution, because when Englisli people speak of hash, they mean something quite different — meat warmed in slices. Our hash, in its best form — that is, made with nice gravy, garnished with sippets of toast and pickles, surrounded with mashed potatoes or rice — is dignified abroad by the name of "mince,'" and makes its appearance as an elegant little entree. Nor would it be anathematized in the way it is with us, if it were only occasionallv introduced. It is the familiarity that has led to con- tempt. But though recipes are hereafter given for most excellent dishes of hash, it is better to introduce a little variety in warmed- over meats. Variety is as easy to produce as it is rare to meet with in average cooking, and depends more upon intelligence and thoughtfulness than upon anything else. Plenty of good well fla- vored gravy is an absolute necessity for the success of warmed-over dishes, also a variety of seasoning, herbs, etc., though in using the. recipes that follow, if all the seasonings mentioned are not at hand others may be substituted or they may be omited entirely. No good cook, however, will allow her stock of spices, herbs and other con- diments to run low, for upon these and their appopriate use de- pends the success of all cookery, giving that peculiar flavor charac- teristic of French cooking ; and another secret we may learn from them is the use of a Pinch of Sur/ar in soups, meat and vegetable dishes, etc. It is not added to sweeten, or even be perceptible, but it en- riches, softens, tones, as it were, the other ingredients as salt does. It is a mistaken idea to think that fat and butter in large quantities are necessary to good cooking. Butter and oils may be melted with- out changing their nature, but when cooked they become much more indigestible and injurious to weak stomachs. Gravy is equally if not more palatable and much more wholesome, though a limited quantity of butter, drippings or oil is almost indispensable to a well COLt) MEATS. 565 flavored gravy, unless it be made from good stock from boiled meat and vegetables, which is much better. In making warmed-over dishes of meat do not let the preparation boil or cook long ; simply become thoroughly heated, as boiling toughens re-cooked meat, and it is also necessary to always place in a hot frying-pan, so the heat- ing can be more quickly accomplished. We give below a few recipes which make appetizing dishes from cold meat but the ways of pre- paring the latter are legion, and the successful housekeeper can form innumerable dishes, as each recipe will suggest another even more edible than the first. Meat Batter. — Dipping slices of cold meat in the following batter is a much nicer way of encasing them, than to single-bread : Mix one and a half pints sifted flour with two tablespoons melted butter, and enough warm water to make a soft paste, which beat till smooth ; then add more warm water till consistency of fritter batter, salt to taste, and add, just before dipping in the pieces of cold meat, the well-frothed whites of two eggs. Another batter nice for meats, dry in themselves, such as chickens, veal, etc., is to add to above quantity flour, yolks of two eggs, four tablespoons oil, mixing with cold water and adding salt and beaten whites as above. "^Vhen meat is prepared, fry as fritters or in frying-pan. Sweet Herbs. — To make the bunch of herbs called for in many recipes put together in palm of left hand three long sprigs parsley with stems crossing in fan shape, and on these lay two sprigs each thyme and summer savory and two bay leaves ; twist root ends of parsley up over other herbs and bring leaf ends down, making a kind of roll, which must be Avound about and tied with clean twine. Some always add a few pepper-corns and blade of mace ; sweet mar- joram is also used, and sage leaves should be added for flavoring pork. The above is given simply as a general rule, and any com- bination preferred or convenient may be used. The herbs are always removed before serving the dish. Warned- Over Roasts. — The simplest of all ways of warming a roast that has not been too much cut is to wrap it in thickly buttered paper and put in the oven again, covering closely as possible and leave only long enough to become thoroughly heated through. By keeping closely covered it will get hot in less time and the steam will prevent it from becoming hard and dry ; make some gravy and serve hot with the meat. If the gravy is good and plentiful the meat will be as nice as the first day, but without gravy will be an unsatis- factory dish. If it is not possible to cover the joint closely in the oven, put it in steamer over hot water; let it get hot through and 5GG COLD MEATS. serve as before. Or it may then be placed in oven a few moments to brown. Cooking as a Pot-Roast is also a nice way to warm it over. For the third day the meat may be warmed up in any of the ways hereafter given. Fried Meat. — Any kind of cold meat or chicken that can be cut into neat slices may be very nicely warmed over by first dipping in Meat Batter as above, or single-breading, and dropping into a kettle of hot fat, turning to brown both sides, or in butter or drip- pings in frying-pan. The batter, or egg and bread-crumbs forms a sort of crust which keeps the meat tender and juicy while it is being heated through. Frying (without batter or crumbs) in a pan with a little butter renders the meat hard and almost uneatable unless the pan is very hot, the meat turned almost constantly, and soon taken out on a hot platter and served at once. Some prefer to sprinkle the meat with ground spices or chopped herbs or onions before breading them. A tureen of good gravy should accompany meat prepared thus, which maybe served in a circle round mashed po- tato, or in center of platter with gravy poured round, or in any way preferred. For Fried Mutton Cutlets, trim thick cutlets from cold leg of mutton, or chops from the 'oin. dip them in the Meat Batter, fry as above and serve in a circle round a Vegetable Rago^it made as follows : Stew young carrots, turnips, green pease and white beans gently in a little water in which the bones and trimmings of the meat have been cooked. Season and dish in center of platterr For Fried Corned Beef^ cut any part of cold corned beef into thin slices, fry slightly in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them and garnish with three or four pickled gherkins ; or heat slices in a little liquor from mixed pickle, drain, and serve as above. Or cut nice, cold roast or lean corned beef in thin slices, and lay them in mustard and vinegar a few hours ; double-bread and fry in hot lard. For breading meats see Croquettes, page 299. Molded Meat. — Chop a pound any cold meat, except pork, very fine, and season with half saltspoon pepper and one of salt. Wash two ounces maccaroni well in cold water and boil half an hour. Drain and cut into inch lengths and mix with the chopped meat, and a cup bread crumlis, adding tablespoon butter cut into small pieces. Bind all together with a beaten egg and tablespoon stock, and when thoroughly mixed pack into a well-greased dish or bowl and steam one hour. Or for MeaA Pudding, take any cold meat and suet, chop very fine ; add salt, onions, minced ham or tongue, a slice of bread soaked in milk, two well-beaten eggs, tablespoon butter ; stew all together gently for fifteen minutes, place in mold and bake till brown. Serve on a hot dish, and cover with gravy; or soak the bread in water, omit the suet, season wilh salt, pepper and celery- seed ; add the meat and egg, and pour the mixture without cooking COLD MEATS. 667 into a buttered pudding dish, placing a tablespoon butter on top ; bake slowly and turn out in solid form as above. Turkey, chicken, etc., are very nice prepared in this way. Meat Omelet. — Mince any cold pieces of meat, add a few crumbs of bread or crackers, and enough beaten egg to bind them together. Season well and pour into a well-buttered, hot frying-pan. If it is diffi- cult to turn whole, a hot shovel may be held over top till browned. Meat Ovals. — Put a half pound stale bread or crumbs to soak in pint cold water ; chop fine same quantity of any cold roast or boiled meat, with a little fat ; press the bread in a clean cloth to ex- tract the water ; put two tablespoons butter in stewpan with table- spoon chopped onions-, fry two minutes and stir, then add the bread ; stir and fry till rather dry, and put in the meat ; season with teaspoon salt, half of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel and stir constantly till hot, then add two eggs, one at a time, mix well and pour into dish to get cold. Make into small egg-shapes, slightly flattened, single-bread, taking care to keep in shape, and when all are done fi'V in frying-pan in a little very hot butter, lard or drip- pings until a fine 3'ellow brown, turning to brown both sides. Serve very hot with a border of mashed potatoes or any garnish fancied. A piquant sauce may be served with them. Any kind of meat, poultry game or fish, or even vegetables may be served thus. Hard- boiled eggs or potatoes may be introduced in small quantities, and the ovals maybe immersed in hot fat if preferred, as Fritters. Oyster Ovals are also nice cooked in same way. Meat Pie. — Put a layer of cold roast beef or other bits of meat, chopped very fine, in bottom of dish, and season with pepper and salt, then a layer of powdered crackers, with bits of butter and a lit- tle milk, and "thus place alternate layers until the dish is full ; wet well with gravy or broth, or a little warm water ; spread over all a thick layer of crackers Avhich have been seasoned with salt and mix- ed with milk and a beaten egg or two ; stick bits of butter thickly over it, cover with a tin pan, and bake half to three-quarters of an hour; remove cover ten minutes before serving, and brown. Make moister if of veal. Or for Hampton Pie, cover any bits or bones, rejected in chopping, with nearly a pint of cold water, and let them simmer for an hour or more ; strain, add a chopped onion, three tablespoons Chili sauce, a level tablespoon salt, and the chop- ped meat ; let simmer a few minutes, thicken with a tablespoon flour mixed in water, let boil once, take off and let cool ; put a layer of this in a pudding dish, then a layer of sliced hard-boiled eggs and a few slices from cold boiled potatoes, then the rest of the meat, then eggs, etc. ; cover with a baking powder crust or a good paste ; make an opening in center, and bake forty minutes. Or for a Mixed Meat Pie^ pound separately in a mortar one pound each sausage meat, 568 COLD MEATS. cold boiled liver and veal, and add a seasoning of ])epppr, salt, minced parsley and one or two stalks young onions, chopped. Line bottom of baking dish with a good paste and put on this a layer of sausage meat with a few pieces of truffles here and there. Fount! a pound of ham and put a layer of it over the sausage meat, with pieces of truffles, then a layer of veal with truffles, layer of liver with truffles and so alternate until dish is full. Add enough nice gravy to moisten, cover with nice light crust and hake in moderate oven un- til a good pale brown. The truffles may be omitted. For Meat and Potato Pie, take cold beef or veal, chop, and season as for hash ; have ready hot mashed potatoes seasoned for table, and put in a shallow baking dish first a layer of meat, then layer of potatoes, and so on, till dish is heaping full ; smooth over top of ]>otatoes, dot with bits of butter and bake until a nice brown. Somesprinkle the top with bread-crumbs. Or chop a quart of any cold meat fine ; season highly with salt and pepper, and put into a buttered, earthen baking dish. Chop a peeled onion very fine, fry it for two minutes with a table- spoon drippings, and pour over the moat. A\'hile chopping the meat and frying the onion, stew any bones from the meat in a cup cold gravy, or use water if no gravy is at hand, and strain it over the meat and onion ; cover meat an inch thick with cold ma.'^hcd pota- toes, smooth top, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake the pie twenty minutes in a moderate oven. A nice Toni/ue Pie may be made by taking equal ])arts cold tongue and cold jioultry or roast pork. Line an earthen pudding dish with good paste, put the two meats into it in layers, season each layer lightly Avith salt and ]iep- per; when the dish is full add sufficient cold gravy of any kind to moisten — or if there is no gravy, a cup hot water, and tablespoon butter; put an upper crust on the pie, wetting the edges of the crust to make them adhere ; cut a few slits in upper crust to permit the escape of steam, and brush over with melted butter or beaten e^or_ Bake in moderate oven an hour, or until the crust is nicely browned, and serve either hot or cold. For a Raised Plc^ take in proportion of a quarter pound lard for every pound flour, half a |»int of water and a pinch salt. To make, add the lard to the water, bring to a boil, then pour it over the flour and mix as quickly as possible ; when mixed wrap in a cloth to keep warm. Make into shapes as on page 428 as rapidly as possible, and when cold it will retain any shape given it while warm. For filling, bone and boil two'calf 's feet ; cut up and stew over a gentle fire for an hour two chickens, and two sweet- breads, in a quart of veal gravy and add the chop])ed calf's feet, season with cayenne pepper and salt, add six or eight })oiled Force- meat Balls, four boiled eggs quartered ; stew till well heated,let stand until nearly cold, and put in pie, and finish as on page 428. In case the butter-lamb and aspic jelly are not liked ; after filling in meat, place four quarters of a hard-boiled egg at equal distances apart on top of meat, and strew a few cold green pease or asparagus COLD MEATS. 569 tops on it. This gives a pretty effect, and saves the trouble of mak- ing the aspic jelly. The shell may be filled with any cold cooked meat. Rabbits make a nice filling, stewed with a nice cut or two of ham or salt pork. Make a force-meat out of the livers beaten in a mortar until fine, adding freely of pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, and a few sweet herbs. Partridges, or any game birds, may be used, bearing in mind that the pie is always to be served cold. Pie- molds may be used, in which case«simply line mold with puff p-aste ; and another filling is to bone the fowl, or whatever bird is intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and season the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper and salt ; spread over it a layer of force-meat, then one of seasoned veal, then ham, and then another of force-meat, and roll fowl over, making skin meet at back. Line the paste with force-meat, put in fowl, fill up cavities with slices of seasoned veal and ham and force-meat, wet rim of pie, put on the cover, - pinch together with pastry pinchers, and - decorate with leaves of paste and brush over raotry pmchcrs. with yolk of egg, or brush with egg before adding leaves, and then the pie will bake a rich brown and the leaves remain a pale color, giving a very pretty effect. Make a good gravy from the bones, ]^our it through a funnel into the hole at top of pie, and bake four hours. Serve when cold. The gravy must be considerably reduced • before it is poured into the pie, as, when cold, it should form a cold jelly. This is suitable for all kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds, according to the size of pie intended to be made ; but birds must always be boned. Truffles, mushrooms, etc., added to pie, make it much nicer ; and, to enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the poultry or game Avith thin strips of bacon. This method of forming raised pies in a mold is generally called a Timhale^ and has the advantage of being more easily made than one where the paste is raised by the hands ; the crust, besides, being eatable. Meat Roll. — Chop any cold meat very fine, add an equal quan- tity mashed potato, or finely-chopped boiled potato, one egg, a little chopped onion and season with salt and pepper and a pinch sugar. Make into a roll nine inches long and three inches wide, or any size wished ; place in frying-pan with a little hot drip- pings or lard and brown all around burning as needed ; or bake in oven. Serve hot on platter surrounded by a nice gravy, made in the pan, or little onion pickles. It is nice for tea or lunch sliced cold, and gar- nished with red pickled beets. For Veal Roll^ chop as above, seas- on with a teaspoon each finely minced lemon peel and mace, table- spoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper, stir in beaten yolks of three eggs, add half cup gravy and cup bread-crumbs ; it should be just soh enoughto handle without running into a shapeless mass. Flour the hands and make it into a roll about three times as long as it is 570 COLD MEATS. broad ; flour the outside well and lay it in a greased baking pan, cover and set in oven until smoking hot, when remove the cover and brown quickly. Then brush over with white of egg, and return to oven a minute or two, dish as above, using a pan-cake lifter, and garnish with croutons, (see soups) pouring a rich gravy over all. Meat Turnovers — Make dou^li as for soda biscuit, roll thin and cut in circles large or small as liked. Upon these put any kind of cold cooked meat or game chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt, catsup and sweet herbs and moistened Avell with cream or melted butter; lay the meat on one side and turn over the other, moistening and pinching edges together carefully. These can be steamed, baked, or fried as Fritters, and are very good cold. When preparing for picnics, bake them. Some heat the meat with a little broth or water, seasoning as above and thickening with a httle flour. If steamed, place the turnovers on a buttered plate and set in steamer. Meat Wo?ide7's. — Chop fine any bits of cold meat, add half as much mashed potato as meat and same of bread broken up and moistened with hot water, a tablespoon flour made smooth with a little water, two or three beaten eggs and a little cold gravy. Season well, mix thoroughly, drop from a spoon into frying-pan containing a little hot butter or drippings and fry a nice brown on both sides, or add flour enough to make into balls and fry as above or bake in oven. Eggs may be omitted. Bread and Meat. — Cut two long slices cold meat and three of bread, buttered thickly, about same shape and size ; season meat with pepper, salt, and a little finely chopped parsley ; or, if veal, a little chopped ham; then lay one slice of bread between two of meat and have the other two slices outside ; fasten together with wooden toothpicks. Bake in quick oven and baste with butter thorotighli/j that the bread may be crisp and brown. If the oven cannot be de- pended on fry in very hot fat as doughnuts. Garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve very hot. Ragout of Meat. — Slice cold moat, put in stewpan in which an onion has been sliced, or several if liked; squeeze half a lemon in, or add tablespoon vinegar, cover closely without water, and when it begins to cook, set pan on back of stove for three quarters of an hour, shaking occasionally. The onions should now be brown ; take out meat, dredge in a little flour, stir it round, anfl add a cup gravv, pepper, salt and a small quantity of any sauce or flavoring preferred ; stew gently a minute or two, then put the meat back to get hot, and serve ; garnish with croutons or pickles. Meat and. Potato Faffs. — Take cold roast meat — ^l^eef or mut- ton, or veal and ham together — cut all gristle away, chop fine and season with pepi)er and salt, and cho])ped pickles, if liked. Boil and mash some potatoes, make them into a paste with an egg, roll COLD MEAT3, 671 out, dredging with flour, and cut round with a saucer ; put some of the seasoned meat upon one half, and fold the other over like a puff; pinch neatly round, and fry a light brown. Meat with Barley. — Take half pound an)'- cold roasted or broiled meat, cut in dice ; three onions, chopped fine, and half cup bar- ley, Avashed. Put all in a stewpan, and dredge with tablespoon flour, half tablespoon salt, and saltspoon pepper. Add three pints water, and simmer two hours. Pare and slice seven potatoes. Add to the stew, and simmer one hour longer. Season more if necessary. Meat with Eggs. — Take pieces of any cold roast meat, trim off fat and mince very fine. Fry a small onion, chopped fine, in plenty of butter ; when a light brown add a teaspoon flour, a little stock or gravy, the minced meat with chopped parsley, salt, pepper and nut- meg to taste. Mix well, add a little more stock if necessary and heat gradually on back of range; lastly add a few drops lemon juice; serve on small squares of bread fried in butter and place a poached egg on top of each, or serve the veal in center Avith poached eggs over it, and toasted bread around with chopped parsley on the squares Bubble and Squeals. — Cut about two pounds cold meat in neat slices, put in pan with tablespoon of butter, and brown them ; chop a head of tender cabbage, put in with two tablespoons of butter, saltspoon salt, and quarter saltspoon pepper, and stir occasionally over the fire until quite tender ; when both are done, lay the slices of meat in center of a hot dish, and cabbage around it ; serve hot. Philadelphia Scrapple. — Take remains of cold fowl or meat, two or three kinds may be used, cut into small pieces, season Avell and put in frying-pan with water to cover. When it boils thicken with corn meal stirred in carefully like mush and about as thick, and keep over fire until the meal is cooked, then pack into a long deep tin and when cold slice ofl* and fry. Nice for breakfast. Stirabout. — Any cold boiled or roast meat is nice if cut into small pieces like marbles, then put in saucepan with water to cover well and stew gently twenty minutes or so ; add salt, plenty of pep- per, and a half cup good strong vinegar — if not strong enough add more — stir well and let stew ; put a large spoonful dripping or butter in a skillet, add tablespoon flour, stir until browned and pour it over the meat, stir well and serve. A change from hash, and when prop- erly seasoned and prepared is very palatable. Broiled Beef. — Peel four or five potatoes, then cut round them as though paring an apple, season with salt and pepper and dip the strips thus made into a thin batter and fry in hot fat a nice brown. Cut neat slices from a cold roast of beef, season well, dip in melted butter, broil quickly and serve on hot platter with the prepared 572 COLD MEATS. potato over them. Or broil the beef as above, and lay in a hot dish on a tablespoon melted butter, sprinkle with mushroom powder, and garnish with border of Saratoga potatoes. For Broiled Reefimth Oyster Sauce, put two dozen oysters in steAvpan, with their liquor strained; add three cloves, bLide of mace, two tablespoons butter, half teaspoon Hour, and seasoning of pepper ana salt ; simmer gently five minutest. Have ready in the center of dish round walls of mashed potatoes, lirowned ; into the middle ])f>ur tlie oyster sauce, quite hot, and round the potatoes place layers of slices of cold roast l)eef, which should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire. For Broiled Beef with Mxishroora Sauce, wipe two or three dozen small mush- rooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt ; put in stcAvpan with tablespoon butter, seasoning of cayenne pepper and tablespoon mushroom catsup ; stir over the fire until mushrooms are quite done, when pour in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, broiled. In mak- ing mushroom sauce, catsup may be omitted if sufficient gravy. Maslxcd Beef. — Cut cold roast beef in rather thin slices, and have ready mashed potatoes free from lumps and highly seasoned ; l)ut the slices of meat in frying-pan with a little hot butter, and fry siighth'', then spread mashed potatoes on both sides of the slices, single-bread them and fry In-own in hot fat ; when done take up with skimmer, drain for a moment on brown paper and serve hot. Hashed Beef. — Put into a stewpan with whatever gravy may have been saved from roast beef the day it was roasted, a teaspoon each tomato sauce, Harvey's sauce and mushroom catsup with a tablespoon any flavored vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, a little Hour to thicken and a finely minced onion. J-^immer gently ten minutes, then take oil fire, let gravy cool, and skim off fat. Cut cold roast beef into thin slices, dredge with flour, place in gravy and let the whole simmer gently five minutes, but not boil, or the meat will be tough. Serve very hot and garnish with croutons. Or cut (iff all the meat from the bones of cold roast ribs or sirloin of beef, remove the outside brown and gristle, and stew the bones and ]iieces "vith two onions, a carrot, bunch savory herbs, blade of pounded mace, and ]unt water, for about two hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to rather more than one half pint; strain, thicken with a teaspoon flour, and let cool ; skim off all fat, lay in meat cut in small bits, let it get hot through, but do not boil, dish and garnish with croutons. The gravy may be flavored as above. Meat prepared thus may be served Avithin walls of mashed potatoes. Soused Beef. — Take the beef left from soup, cut away from the bone in small pieces, season with salt and pep])er, and a little mace and pour hot vinegar over it, or an equal quantity water and strong vine.^ar. A nice supper dish, and may be warmed for breakfast, COLD MEATS. 573 Stewed Beef. — Peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, put in stewpan with two tablespoons butter, set over slow fire and stir until brown, but not in the least burnt, add teaspoon brown flour, mix smoothly, moisten Avith a half pint broth, or water with a small piece of glaze, and add three saltspoons salt, oi less if broth was salted, two of sugar and one of pepper. Put in thin slices of cold lean beef, set on back of stove five minutes to heat through and serve on very hot dish garnished with fried potatoes or croutons. The onions may be omitted and a tables]K)on Chili sauce added ; or for an Irish Stew add sliced jiotatoes with the onions, omitting the sauce. Or for any of the stews flavor to taste with spoonful tarra- gon or plain vinegar, or a teaspoon mushroom powder, or pinch of curr}^ or a few sweet herbs. Beef Fricassee. — Put a pint water in stewpan and when it Ijoils add tablespoon flour mixed smooth in little water, one of butter and pepper and salt. Cut cold ronst beef in thin slices, put into the gravy and boil five minutes. If at hand use beef gravy instead of water, and omit butter. May be served with boiled potatoes, toma- toes, rice or macaroni. For Beef Fritters, cut any cold beef into thin shreds, season well with pepper and salt and stir through the Meat Batter as above. Fry, drain and serve as directed in Fritters. Beef Hash. — Cold moat of any kind will do, but corned beef is best ; always remove all surplus fat and bits of bone and gristle, season with salt and pepper, chop fine, and to one-third of meat add two-thirds of chopped cold boiled potato, and one onion chopped very fine ; a pickled onion can be used if not any fresh ones ; place in dripping'-pan, dredge with a little flour, and pour in at side of pan enough water to come up level with the hash, place in oven and do not stir ; when flour is a light brown, and has formed a sort of crust, take out and add a piece of butter, stir it through several times, and a delicious Baked Hash will result. Or, by cooking longer, it may be made of cold raw potatoes, which peel, slice, and let lie in salt and water a half hour before chopping. Or for Boston Hash, take equal parts cold corned beef and any kind cold poultry chopped fine. To one pint of each add raw yolks of two eggs, tablespoon butter, quart potatoes, peeled and mashed, an onion peeled and grated, nnd enough hot water or gravy of any kind to moisten ; season with salt and cayenne, stir in the well-beaten whites, and put the hash in a buttered pudding dish and bake in quick oven half an hour; serve hot in dish in which it was baked. For Fried Hash, take a pint each chopped meat and potato ; chop an onion fine and brown it in two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add a gill of stock and when this is hot put in the chopped meat and potato ; season Avith pepper and salt and stir over fire until very hot. Serve heaped high in vegetable dish with a piece of butter placed in ahole on top made by pushing down with bowl of spoon. Some prefer to use more 574 COLD MEATS. potato, and the onion may be omitted if not liked. Another way of serving is after stirring over fire until ver}' hot to spread smoothly over the pan and set back where the hash may brown slowly, which should take about half an hour. When done, fold like an omelet, turn on a hot dish and garnish with points of toast and parsle}'. Any cold beef or other meat or a mixture may be used for this dish and if mashed potato is left over some use instead of the chopped. For Turkey Hash, pick meat off turkey bones, shred it in small bits, add dressing and pieces of light biscuit out up fine, mix together and put into dripping-pan, pour over any gravy that was left, add water to thoroughly moisten, but not enough to make it sloppy, and place in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Beef Loaf. — Add to one pint cold hashed beef seasoned to taste with pepper, salt, cloves and cinnamon, three or. four rolled crackers or same quantity dry bread-crumbs, and two eggs, with meat stock to moisten ; bake twenty-five minutes. When cold slice for tea. Beef Patties. — Cut cold beef, or any kind of cold meat into very small square bits, season well with salt, pepper and a little gravy and chopped onion. Roll out a nice plain paste rather thin, fill with the meat, close in patty-shape and fry, or bake a light brown. Or line patty-pans with the paste, put in the meat, cover with paste and bake. Or the paste may be omitted from top and bread-crumbs with bits of butter, sprinkled over. To make without the paste put the prepared meat in patty-pans, half filling them, cover Avith mashed potato, put bit butter on each and brown in oven. Beef Olives. — Take an equal quantity bread-crumbs and finely- chopped beef, some parsley and thyme, a little grated'cold ham if at hand, a few cloves or slice of onion, all chopped fine. Put a lit- tle butter in a pan and let mixture just simmer, not fry, for ten minutes. While this is cooking cut some underdone beef into ob- long slices about half an inch thick and hack them on both sides with a sharp knife ; then mix the cooked force-moat with the yolk of an egg and a tablespoon gravy, put a spoonful of it in the center of each slice of meat, and tie it up carefully in shaj^e of an egg. Have ready some nice gravy thickened with flour rubbed in butter ; roll each olive lightly in flour, lay it in the gravy and simiyier very gently half an hour. A few chopped oysters are a great addition to the gravy. If preferred, each olive may be rolled and tied in a very thin slice of fat pork, dipped in flour and baked in quick oven until nicely browned. A more simple way of preparing is to cut slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch thick ; sprinkle over bread- crumbs, minced shallot, a little fat and seasoning to taste ; roll each slice and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Have ready some gravy made from the beef bones; put in the pieces of meat and stew till tender, about an hour. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and flavor the gravy, and pour over the meat, and serve. COLD MEATS. 575 Beef Pof-Pie.— Take two pounds cold roast beef, cut in rather thick oblong pieces, break the bones, cover with water, and simmer two or three hours for the gravy ; add sufficient water to this to make the quantity throe pints, put in a gallon saucepan with level table- spoon salt, half teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon Chili sauce, the meat, and some potatoes cut in halves, and when it boils add two tablespoons flour mixed smooth in a little cold water. Have ready a baking powder dough, or a raised crust is excellent and by some much preferred. For this take a piece of bread-dough and let it rise. When the stew is hoili7ig fast the crust may be added, either in one piece, with a center cut out, covering the whole ; or cut in long strips and placed in bars over the top ; closely cover and boil without stop- ping twenty minutes and then take off cover and set in oven for a few moments to brown. To serve, if the crust is in one piece place on the platter upside down, lay the meat on it, and pour the gravy, ■which may be thickened more if necessary, over it. Should there be but little meat in the stew put a teacup upside down on the bot- tom of the saucepan to help support the crust. This may be made of any fresh meat or poultry. Beef Pudding. — Mince a pound or more of cold roast beef, mix with it a teaspoon salt, sprinkling of pepper, and tablespoon flour. Make an ordinary pudding paste, fill it with the above mixture, put in not quite quarter pint water, and tablespoon chopped parsley and onion mixed ; tie in a cloth, and boil about seventy minutes. If liked, add chopped pickles, or a little good, well-seasoned vinegar. Beef Rollages. — When breakfast is over gather the good bits of steak, roast or any kind of beef left, and taking off superfluous fat, put beef into a pot with enough boiling water to cover, adding mustard, celery salt, pepper, cinnamon and cassia buds, if all or any are liked, or fresh bits of celery and sprigs' of parsley, instead of celery salt, also a little onion if desired. Simmer meat all fore- noon, adding boiling water from time to time as needed. When thoroughly tender, juicy and brown, take up, slip out bones, chop meat fine adding enough of the gravy to make it like thick mush. Take out of the hash bowl and place on a clean white cloth and form into long roll about three inches in diameter. Wrap and press the cloth tightly about it, several thicknesses, to keep the roll in form. Secure it with cord and place the roll in ice box, if warm weather, out in the cold, if cool ; in a few hours the meat wull have cooled and hardened and can be cut in niee slices like tongue. Lamb and veal can be used in same way. Meat prepared in this way is good either before or after the bones are removed as a hot stew with brown gravy for dinner, or serve hot just after chopping as Spiced Meat on Toast. Beef au Gratin. — Cut a little fat bacon or pork very thin, put in bottom of baking dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley, onion 576 COLD MEATS. and mushrooms, or mushroom powder, and hread-crumbs ; then put u}^ layer of thick sHces of cold beef, well hacked, then another layer of pork or bacon, add seasoning, with crumbs over the top; ]vnir over enough broth or gravy to moisten well and bake slowly an hour. Beef a la Jardiniere. — Put a pint beef broth in thick saucepan with small bunch each parsley and chervil, very little tarragon and teaspoon each chopped shallot or onion, capers and pickled gher- kins ; rub a talilespoon Browned Flour with a large tablespoon butter and stir it in ; then take slices of underdone beef and with a blunt knife hack each piece all over in fine dice, but do not cut the slices through ; pepper and salt each slice and lay them in with the herbs, sprinkle a layer of herbs over the beef and cover closely, set in the oven and cook half an hour. Serve on a dish surrounded with young carrots and turnips, if iji season, or old ones cut. Beef with Macaroni. — Chop lean or cold roast beef or steak very fine, separating it first from all fat; nearly fill a pudding dish witli cold boiled or baked macaroni ; put the chopped beef in the center, flavored with salt, pepper, thyme, and, if liked, a little liquor poured from canned tomatoes. Pour soup stock or gravy over beef and macaroni, cover with bread-crumbs, over which pour two table- spoons melted butter and bake half an hour. Beef with Oysters. — Cut rather thick steaks from cold sirloin or ribs of beef ; brown them lightly in stewpan, with two tablespoons butter and a little water ; add one half pint water, a sliced onion, pep- per, and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and simmer very gently for -lalf an hour ; then mix about ateaspoon flour smoothly with a little of tlie liquor ; add one or two dozen oysters, having previously strained their liquor into the stewpan ; stir till the oysters are plump, then serve. Do not boil after oysters are added, as it toughens them. For Beef and Oyster Pie, place some slices cold boiled potatoes in pudding dish and pour in the above ; cover with good paste, with an opening in center, and bake one hour. Omit onions if wished. Beef loith Tomatoes. — Fry two small onions, chopped, in two tablespoons butter ; then add eight or nine tomatoes, cut fine, and season with salt, pepi^er and herlis if liked. When tomatoes are cooked, add pint chopped cold meat and serve when heated through. Laml) Squares. — Cut underdone lamb, or mutton will do, quite small and coarsely chop some mushiooms, or use the ])owder in- stead. Put in saucepan piece of glaze size of ])igeon's egg ; heat with a little water or broth, add two yolks and when thickened without boil- ing, take off, add the mushrooms and meat, let all get cold, and cut in small squares ; double-bread them and fry in very hot fat ; or after rolling in bread-crumbs, lay each piece in a spoon and dip into frit- ter batter; let the extra batter run oflf, and drop the squares into COLD MEATS. 577 the hot fat. These will be good made of beef and rolled up in pieces of fat pork cut thin, and fried ; serve with a Pickle Dressing made thus : Simmer some chopped parsley, onion and pickled cucumbers till tender, and thicken with an equal quantity Kennebec Butter and flour. If in a hurry, tablespoon each butter and flour, melted in a little water, adding teaspoon vinegar, will make an excellent sauce, and is delicious for anything fried, as bi'eaded chops, croquettes, etc. Mashed, cold cooked pease may be used in place of the mushrooms. Deviled Lamb. — Score a cold shoulder, leg or breast of lamb to the bone about an inch apart and season highly with salt, white and red pepper, mustard and Worcestershire sauce ; put on a gridiron and brown quickly over hot fire. Serve hot with Worcestershire sauce. Fried Lamb. — Neatly trim slices of cold roast lamb and fry in butter a pale brown. Serve on a puree of cucumber or spinach. Or single-bread them and fry in hot lard, till a light brown and serve with a gravy poured over flavored with a few drops lemon juice and a little nutmeg. Mutton or veal prepared same way. Deviled lAvcr. — Take underdone liver of a roast or boiled fowl or turkey ; masli it smooth on a dish placed over the teakettle ; add a little butter, some mustard, salt and cayenne, with a teaspoon an- chovy sauce or mushroom catsup. Spread on toast, and serve hot. Curried Mutton. — Slice in thin rings, put them into a stewpan with four tablespoons butter, and fry light brown ; stir in a table- spoon curry powder, and flour, salt to taste and mix all well together. Or, cut remains of any joint of cold mutton into nice thin slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it maybe minced), and add to the other ingredients ; v/hen well browned, add a gill of stock or gravy, and stew gently for about half an hour. Serve in a dish with a bor- der of boiled rice. Curried Beefvao-Y be prepared in same way. Mashed Mutton. — Cut cold roast or boiled mutton in slices about half an inch thick, and cover both sides with sauce made as follows : Put two tablespoons butter in frying-pan, and when melted add one of flour and stir until smooth ; add, gradually, one cup stock, and two tablespoons glaze, boil one minute, and stir in yolks of two eggs ; season with salt, pepper, and tablespoon lemon juice, and re- move from fire at once. Season the mutton with salt and pepper and as soon as the sauce begins to cool, dip slices in it, and roll in fine bread-crumbs. Beat one whole egg and two whites together, dip the sauced mutton in this and again in the crumbs, and fry and drain as Fritters. Serve with either tomato or tartare sauce. Masked Beef or Veal cooked in same way. Smothered Mutton — Cut cold boiled mutton into slices, place them neatly in flat vegetable dish, season each lightly with salt, pep- 578 COLD MEAT?. per and cayenne. Melt two tablespoons butter and when hot pour half over the meat, and into the other half stir a tablespoon flour, and add a gill of stock. Let boil and add teaspoon sugar, a season- ing of salt, pepper and cayenne, and a jDint cold stewed tomatoes. Cook until tomatoes are very hot, then pour all over the slices of mutton, cover tightly and send to table. Scalloped Mutton. — Cut about a pound cold roast or boiled mutton into very small pieces, not much larger or thicker than a silver quarter ; stew the bone half an hour or more, to make a pint of broth ; strain it and simmer with the mutton half an onion, pep- per and salt for fifteen minutes, adding tAVO tablespoons butter and four of flour rubbed together two or three minutes, before taking up. Butter the lower part of a two-quart pudding dish, and put in a thin layer of mashed potato, then half of the mutton, a thicker layer of potato, the rest of the mutton, and a last layer of potato, which must be glazed with the yolk of un egg ; bake until thoroughly heated. Mutton Collops. — Cut very thin slices from a cold leg or the chump end of loin of mutton, sprinkle with pepper, salt, powdered mace, minced i?avory herbs and shallot and fry very quickly in hot butter; stir in a tablespoon flour, add a half pint gravy and table- spoon lemon juice, simmer gently from five to seven minutes and serve immediately. The meat must be venj lightly fried, just thor- oughly heated through in pan hot enough to brown quickly. Mutton Hash. — Chop fine a pound and a half of the remains of roast mutton and put in a stewpan with a cup mutton gravy or stock ; season with salt, pepper, and a little graced nutmeg ; add a table- spoon flour, and let the meat heat gradually until hot, but do not boil. Simmer twenty minutes, and serve with poached eggs placed neatly round the dish, or on aplatter surrounded with mashed pota- toes. A spoonful of "Worcestershire sauce may be added. Some poach the eggs in boiling water, with half cup vinegar, teaspoon but- ter and level tablespoon salt, serving the hash on slices of toast with an egg on top. Hash made from poultry is nice served thus. For Baked Mutton Hash., chop cold mutton very fine, season with pep- per, salt and half cup milk. Chop an onion also very fine, brown in a tablespoon hot lard and stir into the mince. Boil potatoes in proportion to the quantity of meat, mash smooth and season with butter, pepper and salt. Line baking dish with potatoes, put in the hash and cover with potatoes except a place in the middle as large as a saucer. Beat the yolk of an egg and brush over the potatoes. Bake half an hour. Mutton Pie. — Cold mutton may be made into good pies if well- seasoned and mixed with a few herbs ; if the leg is used, cut into very thin slices ; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place a layer in bottom "-^f dish, season well '"'■•ith Depper. salt, mace, parsley and COLD MEATS. herbs ; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till the dish is full ; add a cup gravy, cover with a crust, and bake one hour. Or cut into square pieces about two pounds cold roast or boiled mutton, trimming off a portion of the fat, and quarter three kidneys; put all in pudding dish, season with two tablespoons chopped parsley, one of powdered herbs, salt and pepper, and half an onion minced ; add half a pint of light stock or water, tablespoon vinegar; cover with puff paste, brush evenly with Roll Glaze, and bake an hour. Cold lamb makes a very nice pie. For Mutton Pie with Tomatoes, spread the bottom of dish with bread-crumbs, and fill with alternate layers of cold roast mutton, cut in thin slices, and tomatoes peeled and sliced ; season each layer with pepper, salt and bits of butter. The last layer should be of tomatoes spread with bread-crumbs. Bake three-quarters of an hour and serve immediately. Mutton Eissoles. — Chop fine a half pound cold mutton and two ounces beef suet ; mix with three ounces boiled rice, season with salt and pepper and roll into small rolls or any shapes fancied, single- bread them and fry a nice brown in hot fat. Serve with a gravy poured round them and a little in a tureen. Or for Mutton Balls, omit the suet, make into balls and tie each in a piece of cabbage leaf; put in hot water and boil half an hour ; serve hot. Mutton Relish. — Take pieces cold mutton and place in the bottom of a meat mold which has a perforated lid that sinks well into the mold andis screwed in place by a valve-pipe ; season, add some broth or gravy, put on lid and on top place nicely seasoned mashed potatoes mixed with a Meat Mold. llttlc uiilk ; suiooth over and dot the surface with capers, if liked. Bake in oven till brown. The potatoes retain all the savory steam rising from the meat, and it is a delicious dish. Fresh mutton cutlets or pieces of the round of beef are nice prepared in this way, adding a few bits of butter to the meat. Mutton Stew. — Cut remains of cold roast mutton in nice even slices, trimming oflf all superfluous fat and gristle ; chop bones and fragments of joint and put in stewpan with six each pepper-corns and whole allspice, bunch sweet herbs, and half head celery ; cover with water and simmer an hour. Slice an onion and fry pale brown and add. Stew fifteen minutes, strain and let cool ; then strain off" all fat and put the gravy with the slices of mutton in stewpan, flavor with catsup or tomato or mushroom sauce, or with anything liked and heat through thoroughly, but do not boil. Serve in hot dish. Or With 07iio7is., cook tender three or four onions, sliced crosswise, in water, add mutton as above, season, and stir in thickening of flour. Mutton and MaGaro7ii. — Boil two ounces macaroni until just tender, but not enough to break, and set by to cool. Chop three. 580 COLD MEATS. quarters pound cold roast mutton, add teaspoon curry, one and a half of salt, tablespoon butter, beaten egg and gill milk. Cut the macaroni in bits, half an inch long and mix lightly with the mutton. Butter a pie-pan and form into a smooth round oval mass in center. Spread half ta]:)lespoon butter over and put in oven ; when well heated cover with beaten egg, seasoned with a small pinch salt and half teaspoon curry; sprinkle finely sifted ])read-crumbs over and set in oven to brown. Serve on platter garnished with parsley. Mutton with Pickles. — Cut cold roast mutton into neat, thin slices, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, bread-crumb them well on both sides, first wetting in gravy or melted butter, ])ut neatly in a dish, and over them a layer of chopped pickles, and slightly moisten with pickle vinegar and gravy. Heat them in oven, and serve with croutons or potato balls. Any cold meat may be cooked thus. Mock Saddle of Mtitton. — Cut remains of roast saddle of mut- ton close to the bone, leaving about one inch wide on outside, and cut into small dice with some of the fat. Fry a tablespoon chopped onions in stewpan with a little butter a moment, and add the meat with a tal)lespoon flour, a little grated nutmeg and high seasoning of salt and pepper; stir, and moisten with a gill or so of broth, add a bay leaf and set on stove about ten minutes, then stir in two yolks of eggs and cook and stir until rather thick. Have ready about two pints mashed potato firm enough to roll ; put the saddle bone in the middle of dish and with the potatoes form an edge round it in the shape of a saddle, leaving middle empty, which fill with the prepared meat. Brush over with beaten egg, sprinkle with sifteo. bread- crumbs, and brown in oven. Ragout of Mutton. — Slice two each turnips, carrots and onions ; put in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, and brown them. Dust in little flour and stir the whole to prevent browning too quickly, and turn out upon a hot dish until wanted. Cut up cold roast mutton into square pieces, and brown on each side in same pan in which vegetables were cooked; then add half pint hot Avater, salt and pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the sliced vegetables. Stew gently until vegetables are tender; arrange the vegetables in center of dish, with the meat as a border, pour the sauce over all, and serve. When in season green pease may be sul> stituted for the turnips and carrots ; they should be served piled in center of dish with the chops around. Porl' Cake. — Cut meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast pork, and mince it very fine ; mix with it two large potatoes freshly Doiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a little powdered sage. Add two or three eggs and a little milk. sufl&- cient to make a very thick batter. Fry the cake like an omelet, or bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. COLD MEATS. 581 Pork Cheese. — Cut, but do not chop two pounds cold roast pork into fine pieces, and allow a quarter pound fat to each pound lean. Season with pepper and salt ; add two blades mace, pounded, a tablespoon finely chopped parsley, four leaves sage and bunch of herbs, also chopped, with half teaspoon chopped lemon peel. Mix all well together, put in mold, fill up with good, strong, nicely fla- vored gravy and bake an hour or more. When cold turn out of mold and serve. Nice for breakfast or luncheon. Porli Cutlets. — Cut the remains of cold roast loin of pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, and chop two onions. Put tablespoon butter in stewpan, lay in the cutlets and chopped onions, and fry a light brown ; then add a half pint gravy, tablespoon flour pepper and salt to taste and teaspoon vinegar and mustard, simmer gently five or seven minutes, and serve. Garnish with large cucum- ber pickles sliced crosswise, three-quarters of an inch thick. This is also a nice garnish for Fried Salt Pork, serving a ring or two with the meat. Pork Hash. — Chop fine bits of cold boiled pork, and put into a hot frying-pan. Fry until brown, and pour off" nearly all the grease. Have ready some chopped potatoes ; mix with pork, add a little water to prevent burning, season, and cook like any other hash. Add a little chopped onion if liked, and a teaspoon dry mustard or prepared horse-radish gives a nice relish to this as well as Beef Hash. Sausage Rolls. — Chop very fine a half pound cold pork, also four sage leaves and mix with the meat. Season with half teaspoon pepper, grain of cayenne, and half teaspoon salt, and moisten with a little gravy. Make a dough of a pint of flour, teaspoon baking- powder, one and a half gills cold water, four tablespoons butter, an egg and half teaspoon salt ; knead lightly, roll out quarter of an inch thick, cut into pieces four inches long and three wide and brush edges with white of egg ; put a portion of the chopped pork in each piece, gather up the edges, pinch together, brush over with beaten white of egg, put on floured tin and bake in hot oven half an hour. Any cold meat may be used. Ham Balls. — Chop fine cold cooked ham ; add an egg for each person, and a little flour ; beat together, make into balls, and fry brown in hot butter. Or mix four ounces grated or finely chopped cold ham with a pint mashed potato, a half gill cream to which two tablespoons butter have been added, and season with half teaspoon Sepper. Make into round or oval balls, put in frying basket and rown in hot fat. Pile on platter and garnish with curled parsley. Ham Omelet. — Chop fine half pound cold boiled ham ; add four well-beaten eggs, with a little salt and pepper ; then place in pan a small piece butter, put in mixture and brown. 582 COLD MEATS. Ham Pie. — Pick cold ham into small fine pieces ; boil a cup rice, beat up two eggs and stir in with the ham and rice ; season with pepper, salt and onions, put into a deep pan, with crust, and bake. Ham PiiWs. — Stir a pint flour into pint boiling water, mix, beat w'ell, and cook until the stiff batter parts from the bowl, then beat in four eggs one by one ; add three ounces finely chopped ham and a pinch of cayenne, or two-thirds teaspoon curry, and half teaspoon salt, unless the ham is quite salt. Drop in deep hot lard, in bits half as large as an egg. A side dish for dinner; nicaAvith chicken, turkey, or veal. Ham Relish. — Cut small slices of cold ham, and fry in their own fat. Place in warm dish and keep covered while preparing this sauce : Take two teaspoons made mustard, generous pinch of pepper, teaspoon white sugar, half cup vinegar, half teaspoon corn- starch, mix well, and add to gravy in the pan ; boil up once or twice and pour hot over ham. Cover and send to table. Grated Ham. — This is one of the nicest relishes for supper or lunch. Cut a good-sized piece from the thickest ])ortion of a boiled ham, trim off the fat, grate the lean part, and put in the center of a platter; slice some tiny slips of the fat and place around the edge, together with some tender hearts of lettuce-heads, and serve for sup- ]Kr or lunch. For Ha77i Sandwiches^ place between thin slices of buttered bread. Scallo2yed Ham. — Chop fine the scraps left from boiled ham, add some of the fat also chopped, and put in an earthen pudding dish, first a layer of bread-crumbs, then a layer of mixed fat and lean, then another layer of crumbs, and so on till all are used, putting a few bits of fat over top ; pour over it a little water, or a dressing of some kind, and set in oven till a nice brown. This is delicious for l^reakfast, or for a picked up dinner, after having made a Ham Sou]) from the bone, well cracked and simmered for three hours with a few sliced potatoes and rice, or dried corn and beans which have first been soaked and parboiled. Stuifed Ham. — A nice way of re-serving a ham from which few slices have been cut is to make a stuffing of bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and celery seed, and heated with a small bit of butter. Fill space in ham with this dressing, restoring as far as possible the form of ham, and leaving a smooth surface ; heat slowly in oven and liakehalfan hour, then cover with grated bread and sprinkling of sugar ; brown, and serve. Or fill space with seasoned mashed potato. Ham. vnfh CiLrrant Jelhj. — Put half glass of currant jell}-, a small bit of butter, and a little pepper in saucepan ; when hot, put in thinly-sliced boiled ham and let thoroughly heat and serve at COLD MEATS. 583 once. For Ham with Vinegar^ cut cold ham thin, and broil it ; place on platter and pour over two or three spoonfuls hot vinegar and pepper. If vinegar is very strong, add a little water. Curried Veal. — Slice four onions and two apples, and fry in a little butter ; then take out, cut cold roast veal into neat cutlets, and fry these a pale brown; add two tablespoons curry-powder and flour, put in onions, apples, and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add a tablespoon lemon juice, and serve with "an edging of boiled rice. May be ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on top. Hashed Veal. — Take half pint each cold veal minced fine and dry bread-crumbs ; mix, season with salt and pepper, add gravy or Avhite sauce, heat thoroughly but do not boil and serve on slices of buttered toast. Or fried bread-crumbs may be lightly strewn over or served in little heaps on the meat, or Force-meat Balls used as garnish. Or take about a pound of cold roast veal, and should there be any bones, dredge them with flour, and put in stewpan with the brown outside from the roast and a few meat trimmings ; add a pint or more of water, an onion cut in slices, a half teaspoon lemon peel, blade of mace, pounded, two or three young carrots and bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer these well an hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a little flour into some butter ; add this to the gravy, set it on the fire, and when it boils, skim Avell. Mince the veal finely by cutting., not chopping it and put in the gravy ; let warm through gradually, add the lemon juice and cream, and when on point of boiling, serve. Garnish with croutons and slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Force- meat Balls may also be added. If more lemon peel is liked add a little to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy. Molded Veal. — Mince three-fourths pound cold roast veal very fine, after removing from it all skin and outside pieces, and chop a small slice of bacon ; mix these well together, and add a third of a teaspoon minced lemon peel, half an onion chopped fine, salt, pep- per and pounded mace to taste and a slice of toast soaked in milk. When all are thoroughly mixed, beat up an egg, with which to bind the mixture. Butter a pudding dish, put in the meat, and bake three- quarters of an hour ; turn it out of the mold carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy, or set dish in pan of water and cook for an hour on top of stove, then spread over Avith beaten egg, sift with bread-crumbs and brown in oven. A sheep's head may b'i dressed in this manner and is an economical and savory dish. Veal Collops. — Cut cold roast veal into pieces thickness of cut- lets, about two inches in diameter, flour well, and fry a light brow*? in butter ; dredge again with flour, and add half pint water, pouring it in by degrees ; set on fire, and when it boils, add an onion and blade of mace, and simmer gently abont three-quarters of an hour: 684 COLD MEATS. flavor gravy with a tablespoon lemon juice, half tea?poon of the finely minced peel and tablespoon mushroom catsup. Give one boil and pour it over the collops. Garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon, rolled. If cream is not at hand, use yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk. Or, cut tbe veal as above, hack with a knife and sprinkle over thepiecesahalf teaspoon nutmeg, two blades mace, pounded, and cayenne and salt to taste, and fry in a little but- ter. Dish them, and make gravy in pan by adding tablespoon flour, quarter pint water, teaspoon anchovy sauce, tablespoon each lemon juice and mushroom catsup, three of cream and quarter teaspoon minced lemon peel. Veal Dice. — Cut cold veal into little pieces or dice and turn over them a mixture of parsley and chopped onion, seasoned with vinegar, pepper and salt. Let stand until liady to fry ; then put a little butter on them and fry them in hot lard to a rather dark brown color. Cold fowl is nice cooked same way. Veal Patties. — Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one- third ham to two-thirds veal ; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of mace, salt, pepper, and lemon peel ; moisten Avith a little gravy and cream. Make a good pufF paste, roll rather thin, and cut into round or square pieces ; put the mince between two of these, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also baked in patty-jians, Avhen they should be brushed over with yolk of egg before put in oven. Oysters may be substi- tuted for the ham. Veal Pudding. — Prepare thin slices of cold veal, three inches wide, as in first recipe Veal Olives, page 532 ; place in dish, pour in a cup gravy and four tablespoons cream, cover with a puff crust and bake from one to two hours, according to size of pie. Veal Relish. — Make a sauce of milk or water, a large onion, sliced, a slice of saltx>ork or ham if liked, also a little sliced cucum- ber; add sliced cold veal and thicken Avith yolks of one or two eggs, added after tho whole has simmered twenty minutes, and it must not boil after the eggs are added. In winter, chop a teaspoon pickled cucumber or capers and add just Ix'fore sending to table. When sliced cucumber is used add juice of half a lemon the last thing. The dish may be varied by adding sometimes a few chopped oysters, mushrooms or celery. Celery should be put in with the onion be- fore the meat. Fillet of Vcalau Bechamel.— Take a fillet of veal that has been roasted the preceding day, cut the middle out rather deep, leaving a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, ana if there sh'juld be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with any force-meat. Mince finely ihe meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of COLD MEATS. 585 the force-meat to flavor, and add sufficient bechamel sauce to make the proper consistency. Warm the fillet in oven about an hour, taking care to baste it well, put the mince in the place where the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over it, and drop a little clarified butter on the crumbs ; put it into the oven for fifteen minutes to brown, pour bechamel sauce round sides of dish and serve. Ragout of Veal. — Any part of cold veal will do for this dish. Cut the meat into neat pieces, put in stewpan with tablespoon but- ter, and fry light brown ; add half pint gravy or hot water, thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about fifteen minutes ; season with pepper, salt, and mace ; add tablespoon mushroom cat- sup, and dessertspoon lemon juice ; give one boil and serve. Gar- nish with Force-meat Balls and fried rashers of bacon. This recipe may be varied by adding vegetables, such as pease, cucumbers, let- tuce, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two green goose-berries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy. In slicing any cold meat for cooking al- ways cut across the grain. Yeal with Macaroni. — Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off" the brown outside, and mince the meat finely with three tablespoons chopped ham for every three-fourths pint veal ; should the meat be very dry, add tablespoon good gravy. Season highly with pepper and salt, add quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg and quarter pint bread-crumbs, and mix these ingredients Avith one or two well-beaten eggs, which should bind the inixture and make it like force-meat. In the meantime, boil a quarter pound macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mold, put some of the maca- roni at the bottom and sides, in whatever form liked ; mix the re- mainder with the force-meat, fill the mold up to the top, put a plate or small dish on it, and steam for half an hour. Turn out carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the meat. Cheese Sandwiches. — Grate any good cheese. Pine-apple is best, mix with mayonnaise dressing and place between thin slices of bread. Nice for a picnic or traveling lunch. When preparing any sandwiches for such an object do not make the dressing as moist as if to be eaten at home. The better way, if one does not object to the trouble,is to putdressing in a glass jar and mix sandwiches as needed. Egg Sandwiches. — Boil very hard as many eggs as wanted, chop or pound fine, add butter, pepper, salt and made mustard to taste, and spread between slices of bread. Ham Sandwiches. — Chop fine cold, boiled ham, and mix with the yolks of raw eggs, a little pepper, and mustard and spread be- tween thin slices of bread. Roll up like Wedding Sandwich Rolls on page 48. Or add melted butter and cream to the chopped ham until 586 COLD. MEATS. smooth like a paste, omitting the egg. Season well with salt and pepper and spread between buttered slices of bread. Some chop the jSi^L ham very fine, season with tablespoon each f^^^^^^^^"^. olive oil and lemon juice and a little cayenne .^^ ^^^^^^^ ^1^ and mustard, then rub through a sieve and Ham Sandwiches. sprcad bctwecn the slices. A nice Avay of mak- ing sandwiches when ham has to be boiled for the purpose instead of using cold remains, is to chop it very fine while yet warm, fat and lean together, with an equal quantity loan veal, boiled or roasted ; rub dry mustard with it to taste,with a pinch of cayenne, and a clove of garlic chopped, greatly improves it ; add as much sweet butter as would be spread on bread for sandwiches and mix well ; have some cold soda biscuit ; cut in two and spread the mixture between, or use muffins instead, or bread may be used. These are very nice for a picnic or festival table, and not half the work of those made in the usual way, as it saves buttering the bread. Lunch Sandioiches. — Chop sardlr.^s, ham and a few pickles quite fine ; mix with mustard, pepper, salt, vinegar, and catsup if liked ; spread between bread nicely buttered. Cut crosswise. Mixed Sandwiches. — Chop fine some cold boiled ham, a little fat with the lean ; add equal part tongue and chicken also chop])ed fine; make a dressing of a half pound butter, three tal)lespoons salad oil, three of mustard, yolk of one egg, and a little salt ; mix well to- gether and spread smoothly on thin slices of bread. Ham alone may be prepared thus. Either mixturies very nice. Bcception Sandwiches. — Take equal quantities of the breast of a cold boiled chicken and cold boiled tongue, chop very fine, so fine in fact that the separate particles cannot be distinguished, add a half teaspoon celery salt, a pinch of cayenne, teaspoon anchovy paste and four tablespoons mayonnaise dressing. This quantity will be enough to season the breast of one large chicken and an equal fjuantity of tongue. When perfectly cold, sproad some thin slices of l)utterod broad with this mixture. Or take a few snuiU leaves of lettuce, dip each leaf in a little tarragon vinegar, shake it, and place it on a slice of bread ; spread a layer of the prepared meat over the lettuce, then another loaf of lettuce over the meat, and add other slice of bread, trim off the crust and cut each sandwich in two. Ham and veal make a nice Salad Sandicich. The meat may be spread on the bread and the lettuce in the center, if preferred. Nicer not pre- pared till ready to serve. Some prefer to pound the moat, after chop- ping coarsely, add lump of butter and season with salt, pepper, nut- meg and ground mace, instead of the mayonnaise. Spread this paste on thin slices of buttered broad, cut square, put two together, and cut again crosswise into triangles, which form on dishes into any fancy shape and send to table. COLD MEATS. 587 Toast Sandwiches.— Gvii the crust from a loaf stale bread, then cut very thin slices, and toast a delicate brown. Butter lightly and spread with any kind of potted meat or fish. Put two slices together, and, with a sharp knife, cut them in long strips. Arrange these tastefully on a dish and serve at tea or evening parties. Sardines may be pounded to a paste and mixed with the yolks of pounded hard-boiled eggs, and used instead of potted meats, when the slices of bread may be fried in salad oil. Tongue Sandwiches. — Boil a good-sized tongue four or five hours, not boiling hard, but just simmering, leave in pot until water is cold, then skin it, and when ready to make the sandwiches, cut slices thin as wafers, using a sharp, thin-bladed knife ; rub a small quantity of mustard into a large slice of sweet butter and cut slices of bread as thin as they can be shaved ; spread them with the pre- pared butter and lay pieces of tongue between two slices ; then cut the slices in halves. Sandwich Dressing. — Mix yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, tea- spoon each made mustard and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two table- spoons vinegar and one of salad oil. Chop any meat fine, mix with the dressing and spread between slices of bread. Sandwich Rolls. — After cutting off top of a French Roll, re- move carefully the crumb from the inside. Cut in small dice, cold boiled chicken and tongue, half and half, and twice as much celery as meat ; mix with any salad dressing liked and fill the roll, cover- ing with the cut-off top. These are nice for either luncheon or when traveling, and cold cooked lobster, cut in dice and mixed as above, may also be used. Clarified Drippings. — The fat which rises when boiling beef, pork or poultry, the drippings from the roasting and frying pan, and all trimmings of fat from meats should be carefully put away in a crock kept for the purpose and "tried out" and clarified every two or three days in summer, but in winter once a week willdo.^ To prevent danger of its becoming scorched, some skim off drippings from roast before the meat is entirely cooked. To clarify, cut up any trimmings of fat in small pieces, put in skillet, cover, try out slowly, stir occasionally, and skim well ; add cakes of fat saved from top of meat liquor, scraping the under side well, slice a raw potato and cook in it (some add a pinch of soda), let stand a few minutes to settle, strain all the clear part into a tin can or stone jar ; or clarify by pouring boiling water over drippings, stir over fire a few mo- ments to wash away all impurities, and strain through muslin or a fine sieve, let cool, take off the cake that forms on top, scrape the refuse from the bottom, put it again in skillet and heat until all water is out, then pour into jar, and it will be found very nice to use either alone or with butter and lard in frying. Son>e instead of 688 COLD MEATS. cooking the prepared drippings in hot water, put in a bowl or crock, pour over boiling water, add a little salt, stir well and set away ; when cold, remove the cake on top, leaving the water and impurities at bottom, scrape the bottom as above and put cake in more boiling water till it melts, then stir again, adding pinch of salt and let cool. Now take off cake of fat, scrape it as before, and heat it and pour into jar, and it will keep a month or two in cold weather. The clearest and whitest drippings should be kept to use for shortening doughnuts and biscuit, and some prefer it to butter in common cake, or lard in pastry. As a frying mixture, clarified drippings are con- sidered even more wholesome than butter, and many persons who cannot eat articles fried in lard will suffer no inconvenience from those fried in beef fat. Drippings also do very well for basting all roasts except gnme and poultry. The fat from boiling ham or from boiling meats with vegetables is never fit for cooking purposes, but should be thrown into the soap grease. After skinning and trim- ming the boiled ham, the fat which remains may be tried out and used for drippings, and is as sweet as butter. Mutton fat should always be clarified by itself and used for chapped hands and lips. Any fat not nice enough for the above uses should be tried out and kept for soap grease. Full directions for the care of such drippings are given in Laundry department. MUSH. 589 MUSH. The growing pop\ilarity of the various mnshes as a breakfast dish demands that the different ways of preparing, serving etc., should be well known to every housekeeper. They are either boiled or steamed and for the finer meals as Graham, gluten, rye, etc., the nicer way is to cook in a custard kettle, rather than an ordinary one as most of them require long cooking. The inner kettle can be placed on stove while the meal is being added in order that the salted water may be kept hoiling all the time, as this is very important, for the meal must be scald- ed at once and commence to cook immediate- cu.tard Kettle. ly an(j jf ^hc watcr ceases to boil, meal must not be added till it boils again. When thick enough, stir for a few minutes to prevent settling in a mass at the bottom, then place in outer kettle for three or four hours. Only a small quantity must be stirred in at a time, sifting slowly through the fingers, as if it thickens too quickly the meal cannot thorough- ly cook and the mush will have a raw taste and also be lumpy ; this is especially true of corn meal. Mushes should be stirred as little as possible after all the meal is added, as stirring breaks up the particles and frees the starchy matter rendering the mush a pasty-wax and destroying the light, spongy, delicate appear- ance it should present ; and for this reason cooking in a custard ket- tle is better for the finer meals except corn meal ; that can be thus 590 MUSH. cooked, only it is generally made in too large a quantity, and so making in an ordinary kettle and baking as given in recipe is recom- mended. Covering and placing on back of range on top of bricks will enable any musb to cook slowly without fear of burning. Some make in a kettle and then put in a pan and place in steamer. Dif- ferent sizes of hard-wood paddles should be kept with which to stir mushes, and great care must be taken that the latter are not lumpy. For the coarser grains as oatmeal, cracked wheat, hominy, etc., some process of steaming is best as they are better not to be stirred ; the patent steamer, custard kettle or a tin pail, or even a strong muslin sack placed in a kettle of boiling water, may be utilized. Just before serving any mush, some stir in a piece of butter, or a spoonful or two of cream and a pinch of sugar. The coarser grains may be soaked overnight in cold water, keeping covered, then steaming in same wa- ter ; but the flavor is somewhat impaired by so^doing. If not soaked, they can be mixed "svith either hot or cold water but will cook quick- er if with cold. We give below a table, showing proportions and time of cooking in patent steamer. A custard kettle or tin pail would require half again as long. In steaming always keep the water boiling rapidly and serve the moment steamer is removed from fire, else water will collect. As tastes vary in the thickness of mush liked, one can add to, or take from the quantity of water given, only remembering that it should not be too thick, nor so thin as to spread much when served. If fruit is to be added it is always bet- ter to cook it separately in a very little water and stir in just before serving. Fruit juice or sauce, or cream and sugar, or butter and syrup may be served with mushes, making a most palatable break- fast dish either as a first or last course. All the mushes and steamed grains can be fried when cold either by single-breading and frying like Fritters, or simply roll in flour or corn meal, letting the pieces lie in it awhile to become well coated, or neither bread nor flour the slices. The frying by immersion is much the nicer way but some fry in just enough butter, or any fat liked, to prevent burning. p]ither makes a delicious breakfast dish. A quart of cold mush makes about a dozen slices or rings, but the rings are much hand- somer when served, and are made by putting the hot mush in round cans, as described in Corn Meal Mush. By adding a batter of milk, eggs, a little flour and pinch of salt, to any cold mush or steamed grains delicious Griddle Cakes will result, or using a stiffer batter, MUSH. 591 Rolls, Gems^ etc., can be made. For best meals to buy see Market- ing, and for their care, The Store Room. GRAIN. WATER. TIME. Pearl or crushed barley 1 cup 2 cups Z}4 hours. Coarse hominy 1 " 4 " -i Fine " 1" 3i.i " 4 '' Samp 1" 4^^ " 2% " Cracked wheat or Wheaten Grits 1 " 3'^ " 4 Oatmeal 1" 4 " 3 " Cerealine Mush. — This is made from a preparation of corn known as cerealine or shredded maize, and a number of other nice dishes are also made from it, as griddle cakes, rolls, muffins, etc., using it in place of flour or meal. For the mush or porridge, take one quart milk or half milk and watvr, salt to taste, and when boil- ing thicken with one pint cerealine, cooking three or four minutes. Serve hot, or better cold; dot the top of dish with bits of currant jelly or any kind liked, and eat with cream and sugar. For Fried Cerealine use equal quantities cerealine and water, two tablespoons butter and teaspoon salt. AVhen cold, slipe, dip in salted beaten egg, then in dry ceraline, and fry as directed in preface. Corn Meal Mush. — For the best manner of preparing meal see page 19. Some prefer the yellow variety, others the white ; put four quarts fresh water in a kettle to boil, salt to suit the taste ; when it begins to boil stir in one and one-half quarts meal in the manner as directed in preface, sifting it in a little faster at the last, until as thick as can be conveniently stirred with one hand, let cook five minutes stirring constantly; set in the oven in a kettle or take out into a pan, bake an hour or two, and it will be thoroughly cooked. It takes corn meal so long to cook that it is very difficult to boil it until done without burning ; hence Baked Mush is much easier made. For stirring use a hard-wood paddle two feet long, with a blade two inches wide and seven inches long. The thorough cook- ing and baking in oven afterwards takes away all the raw taste that mush is apt to have, and adds much to its sweetness and delicious flavor. Some brush the inside of kettle over with lard or drippings before adding water, thinking it lessens the tendency to burn, and the mush does not adhere so to the kettle, causing a waste. After mush is made, instead of baking, the kettle can be covered and set on back of range as directed. For Philadelphia Mush put two quarts water in ketUe, when boiling ; stir in slowly a little at a time of the following mixture : one quart each corn meal and cold milk or water, and level tablespoon salt, beaten to a smooth paste. Let cook twenty-five minutes, stirring often ; or is better placed on the bricks or in oven, when it will not need to be stirred, and should then cook 692 jrusH. an hour or more. Serve with cream or milk, and buttermilk is liked by some. A little flour is sometimes added to mush. For Fried Mush take from any of the above preparations when ready to serve ; place in a crock, pan or a round can (baking powder can is nice) first rinsed with cold water or slightly greased; and some after smoothing the top brush over lightly with a little melted lard or butter to prevent a crust from forming. When cold, cut in rings (slices from the round roil from can) or in slices from pan and fry as directed ; if wished very crisp, slice thin and fry in little fat in the frying-pan. In making corn meal mush as well as all mushes tliat are stirred, the one iinpoHaat rule is to have water hoiling, for this reason a good fire is necessary, and keep it thus while sifting in meal ; as unless the meal is cooked as it is stirred in, no amount of after cooking will take away the raw taste. Gluten Mush. — Put inner kettle of custard kettle on stove with three pints water, and when boiling sift in, as directed in preface, one pint gluten. When ready, place in outer kettle and cook four or five hours. This is one of the most delicate of mushes, and is made of what is known as dark gluten ; the light gluten being used more especially for puddings. Farina Mtcsh. — Stir into three pints boiling water half pint fa- rina. Cook as directed in any of the recipes for Graham Mush, ad- ding the sjioonful or two of cream as directed in preface. Graham Mush. — Use what is known as No. 2 Graham, being ground a little coarser than No. 1. which is used for bread. Make like Gluten, except take a heaping pint to three pints water, and it need not cook more than an hour in custard kettle, but longer boil- ing greath"^ improves it. Or make in an ordinary kettle ; when done place on back of stove, or take out in pan and place in steamer for three or four hours and serve. Some m;ike in saucepan and cook from fifteen to twenty minutes after meal is added ; set off fire a few minutes, as it will then be less likely to adhere to pan, and serve. A few dates or raisins may be stirred in ten minutes before it is done : or if steamed as above, either in custard kettle or patent steamer, add them when the mush is ready to be placed in outer kettle or steamer. Serve hot, or for Molded Graham Mush pour in cups and serve cold. May be fried as directed. Granula Mush. — This is a preparation of wheat which makes a very wholesome and palatable mush, and as it is already twice cooked does not take long to prepare. Put one quart water in saucepan, salt to taste, when boiling sift in one scant pii;t granula as directed ; cook five minutes and serve. Milk or half milk and water may be used. Too much cannot be said in praise of this. Rije Mush. — Make in saucepan or ordinary kettle as Granula, except take one pint to a quart water, sifting in as directed. Cook MTTSH. 593 ten minutes, stirring constantly, and serve. Use the meal, not the flour ; the latter is used for bread, although some prefer the meal both for mush and bread. Hominy. — There are several kinds, the Hulled Hominy, which we give in vegetables and the Coarse Hominy., which is cooked as Cracked Wheat except taking a pint to three pints water. The Fine Hominy or Orits is cut in smaller ]->ieces and cooked as above, some using less water. The addition of the tablespoon or two of cream, as directed in preface, is especially nice for hominy and barley. Samp., which is the third variety and is cut very much finer than the grits, is cooked in same way, taking a pint to two quarts water, and will steatn in about three "hours ; or either kind may be simply cooked an hour in an ordinary kettle, and is nice either warm or cold with cream and sugar, or inay be served as a vegetable with any meat. A much-prized dish is Fried Hominy ; slice when cold and fry in frying pan or on a greased griddle. Frj'ing like Fritters is not so nice for the coarse grains, as they crumble so easily. Oatmeal. — To be wholesome this must be well cooJced., and not the pasty, half-cooked mass sometimes served. There are a few persons with very delicate digestive powers who should only eat the Pearled Oatmeal (the outer husks of the grain being irritating). This and the Rolled Oatmeal are better for mush, while the finer, almost a flour is better for cakes, rolls, etc. When made in ordinary kettle have three pints boiling water, and stir in slowly cup of oatmeal (some wet it before adding), season with salt and boil an hour ; if too stiff add more hot water, or if too thin cook longer. But it is better cooked in a custard kettle, when cook as Gluten Mush, using one pint to two quarts water, sifting slowly into the salted, boiling water as directed in preface, and placing in the outer kettle for three or four hours. For Neio York Mu-'th, mix half pint oatmeal in quart boiling milk in custard kettle, add quart boiling water and cook an hour and a half, season with salt and serve. Or With Onions., cook till tender one sliced onion in one quart milk, add half pint oatmeal mixed smooth in half pint milk ; cook an hour, season and serve with meat. For Jellied Oatmeal boil in custard kettle three heaping tablespoons meal in quart milk two or three hours. A few raisins, stoned dates or fresh fruit may be added; cool in cups and serve with fruit juice or cream and sugar. For Steamed Oatmeal., add half pint to one quart cold Avater and tea- spoon salt, place in pan and steam in patent steamer or in steamer over a kettle of water or in a custard kettle from three to five hours. This is the easiest and best way of cooking oatmeal. Fried Oat- meal is fried as Hominy. Molded Oatmeals cook in any of the ways as g^'-^'en above, mold and serve when cold with any fruit juice. It IS well to can fruit juice just for the purpose of serving with 594 MUSH. mushes, as it is considered nicer as well as more wholesome, for with the juice less sugar is used than with cream. Cracked Wheat. — Take one quart cold salted water to two-thirds pint best cracked wheat ; steam four or five hours in custard kettle, or less time in patent steamer. Or, soak overnight and boil two hours. Or, put in a ])an or small tin pail, set in steamer and steam four hours : or pail may be placed in kettle of boiling water. Or make a strong sack of thick muslin or drilling, moisten wheat with cold water, add a little salt, place in sack, leaving half the space for the swelling of the wheat. Fit a round sheet of tin perforated with holes half an inch in diameter, to the inside of ordinary kettle, so that it will rest two or three inches from the bottom ; lay sack on the tin, put in water enough to reach tin, and boil from three to four hours, supplying water as it evaporates. Serve with butter and sy- rup, or cream and sugar. To make IF/ZA i^naked if the hole is not deep enough for the purpose, remove some of the pastry inside the ring with a knife. Pyramid shells are used for serving Oyster, Chicken or Lol^sterFriccassee, and instead of making the individual size, they are sometimes made large enough to serve the friccassee entire, rolling the })aste about an inch thick. An or- dinary size would be nine or ten inches in diameter, and may be made also as Cut or Layer Shells, laying a plate of the desired size on the paste and cutting out tiie shape wth a wet knife, using a plate with diameter about two inches smaller for the inner round, and cutting about half through the paste. When baked, carefully remove this round without breaking it, or the under part, and lay it aside to be used as a cover for the fricassee when served. If the under paste does not seem thoroughly Large voi-au-vent. cooked when this is cut out, return to oven. The above shells, both large and small, are also styled Vol-azi- Vents. To make Folded Shells.,xo\\ puff paste thin, cut into two and a half inch squares and brush each square over Avith white of beaten egg, then fold down the corners so that all meet in middle ; sliglitly ])ress together, brush with the egg, sift sugar over and bake in quick oven quarter of an hour ; when done make a little hole in the middle and put in filling. In rolling puff paste for shells, some wet the top, before folding it the last time, with water or a little lemon juice. Apple Tarts. — Pare, quarter, core and boil in half cup water until very soft, ten large tart apples ; beat till verj/ smooth, and add yolks of six or three whole eggs, juice and grated rind of two lem- ons, half cup butter, one and a half cups sugar, or more if not sweet •noughj beat all thoroughly, line patty-pans with Puff Paste, fill PASTRY. 66S with mixture and bake fiye ininutes in hot oven. If wanted very nice, make a meringue of whites of six eggs, spread on top of tarts and brown slightly. For Almond larts, beat to a cream yolks of three eggs, and quarter of a pound sugar, add half pound shelled almonds pounded slightly, and bake as above. Or use the whites of three eggs, omitting the yolks. For Cocoa-nut Tarts, dissolve half pound sugar in quarter pint water, add half a grated cocoa-nut, boil slowly a few minutes, and when cold, add well-beaten yolks of three eggs and white of one ; beat all well together and bake as above. Cover tarts with a meringue made of whites of two eggs. Chocolate Tarts. — Dissolve three tablespoons grated chocolate in quarter pint milk ; then add one pint scalded milk thickened slightly with one and a half tablespoons corn-starch ; dissolve six tablespoons granulated sugar in four of hot water, add half teaspoon cinnamon and one teaspoon melted butter. When chocolate mix- ture is cold add this to it, with half teaspoon vanilla and yolks of four eggs well beaten. Line patty-pans with puff paste, fill, bake and cover with a meringue. Or they may be lined, filled, baked and kept in a cool dry place for a week or two, covering with a meringue, and browning in oven just before serving. Coventry Tarts. — Take scraps of puff paste and roll out into sheet quarter inch thick. Cut number of pieces required with plain round cutter three inches in diameter. Roll out as for Preserve Tarts, add fancy preserves, then fold or lap paste over in three folds, forming a triangle. Turn folded part down on baking pans, wash with water, or egg and water, dust with powdered sugar, and bake. Do not cut these on top. Or for true Trianqle Tarts, Roll the paste to a thin sheet and cut it in two and a half inch squares. Put a teaspoon jam in center and fold over so as to make a three-cornered tart. Run paste jagger along edges to close them by cutting off a shred, or pinch them Paste Jagger. "" togcthcr wlth fiugcrs. Brush over the tops, after placing in baking pan, with egg and water and sprinkle gran- ulated sugar upon them, and bake in slow oven. Cream Tarts. — Make a short paste with one white and three yolks of eggs, tablespoon butter and two of sugar, little salt, and flour to mix. Work it very lightly indeed, roll quarter inch thick, line patty-pans with it, filling them with rice to keep their shape. Bake carefully in moderate oven. Fill with jam, placing tablespoon whipped cream on top. A very pretty dish. They may be filled with a Chocolate Ice., made by cooking a syrup of quart water and pint sugar half an hour ; then adding a chocolate paste made by pouring four tablespoons water over a scant half teaspoon powdered cinnamon, letting stand half an hour, then straining over four heap- ing tablespoons grated chocolate and mixing together. This spicing «M PASTRY. of chocolate is nice in any recipes where chocoLate is used. After adding to hot syrup, stir a moment, strain, and when cold, add half teaspoon vanilla extract and juice of one lemon (about half a gill). Freeze as directed in Ices, adding the Meringue For Ices, made of white of one egg, on page 407 ; and although only white of one egg is taken where three pints of loater is used in making the syrup, it is not too much for a quart of Avater, as above. The syrup, when cooked, should be reduced to about two thirds of the water and su- gar used, making in this recipe one quart syrup. Tliis rule applies to all Ices made With Syrup which is by far the better way of mak- ing them, giving a firm, smooth, delicious ice, and to the syrup one can add juice of any fruit or any other flavoring used in Ice-creams, and the above way of serving is very nice. Currant Tarts. — Take one cup cleanly-picked currants, and a cup each granulated sugar and finely chopped lemon peel; add fla- voring of ground ginger and cinnamon and mix all well together. Take enough scraps of any paste and roll out quarter inch thick, then cut in pieces two inches square and put a teaspoon of the above preparation in centjt'r of each piece, pull over the edges, allowing them to lap a little in center, flatten with the hand and turn them over, folded part down. Then roll out with rolling pin until the currants, peel, etc., break through. Place on baking pans, make a few cuts across top with a knife, wash with milk, or milk and egg, dust with sugar and bake nice brown in hot oven. For the real English Banbury Cake,a.^di to above ingredients fresh butter enough to form the whole into nice paste. Take the best Puff" Paste, roll out and cut as above and place a piece of the mixture in center of each; take up two corners, diagonally opposite, press together, and then with palm of hand press them down flat. This makes the pieces oval in shaj^e and leaves two ends which are folded together at liberty to rise ; wash the part that is not folded with water and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bake in slow oven. Custard Tarts. — Prepare shells as in Fanchonettes ; remove bread, and place in each a teaspoon red currant, or any jelly or jam ; cover'this with a custard made as follows : Beat four eggs, add three- fourths pint milk, two tablespoons butter, creamed, four tablespoons sugar and three dessertspoons flour, mixed smooth with water. Heat to boiling point, or until it thickens, and flavor as liked. Must be cooled before pouring over the jelly ; cover the tarts with merin- gue, raised in cone-like form, sprinkling over a little pinch sugar. Or this custard may be simply stirred together, and poured into shells before baking them, and bake twenty minutes, thus cooking all together, omitting jelly at bottom, but covering with the merin- gue. For Rice Tarts, cook two bay leaves or rind of half a lemon in pint milk ; strain, add three ounces ground rice, or rice flour, cook fifteen minutes, take off" fire, and add a well-beaten mixture of PASTRY. 635 three tablespoons butter, half cup sugar and five or six eggs ; when cold, fill some paste-lined patty-pans with it, strew over a few dried currants and bake twenty-five minutes in moderate oven. For Maca- roon Tarts, line patty-pans with paste and make a custard of a quarter pint cream, four yolks of eggs, one tablespoon flour, four of sugar, three macaroons, crumbled, grated peel of one lemon, a 'little citron cut fine and little orange flower water. Heat the other ingredients, add the flour, mixed smoothly with a little water, boil sufficient to cook the flour, then take from fire a few minutes and stir in the beaten yolks of eggs, and set in pan of hot water till eggs seem done. After putting in patty-pans, bake until paste is done, then ornament tops with chopped almonds or cover with meringue, or not, as liked. For Jelly Tarts, fill Patty Shells with jelly and serve either with or without the meringue. Gutter Tarts. — Line small patty-pans with rich paste .and fill with red or black currants, raspberries or any fruit at hand, heaping high in center ; add a little powdered sugar to each, wet edge of paste with water, and put on a top crust about an eighth of inch thick ; after trimming the edges, with the thumb press the paste around the base of the fruit, about half an inch from edge of patty-pan, press- ing hard enough to all but break the paste and so as to push the fruit up in a cone in center ; wash them with water and bake. The object of pressing the paste so thin around base of fruit, is that the juice may break through the paste in baking and run around the groove or gutter formed by pressing the paste, which has a rich and pretty effect when baked, and gives the tarts their name. Lemon Tarts. — Mix juice and grated rind of one lemon with cup sugar and beaten yolk of an egg. Add half cup cold water into which has been stirred a heaping teaspoon corn-starch. Set pan in boiling water and cook till it becomes a clear jelly. If wanted richer add to above, the juice and rind of another lemon, three more yolks of eggs, teaspoon butter and one more of corn-starch. Let cool and fill Patty Shells with the mixture covering with meringue. Or for Lemon Butter, put four pounded tablespoons soft butter, two cups sugar and six eggs well beaten together in a custard kettle, stir al- most constantly, add juice of three lemons and grated rind of two, and cook to consistency of honey. Pack in jars to use as wanted, and it will keep two or three months. To use, fill in any baked tart-shells and put in oven till mixture is hot. Or line patty-pans with the Sweet Paste, fill two-thirds full with the mixture adding a few pou«nded almonds, candied orange or lemon peel or grated Maca- roons if liked, and bake in moderate, oven about fifteen minutes. In either case they may be covered with a meringue when baked, and returned to oven and delicately browned. For Orange Tarts^vaokQ as Lemon Butter using only third as much sugar and grated rind and juice of one large orange, instead of the lemons. Cook till like 066 PASTRT. melted cheese, then take off fire and beat a minute or two with an egg-beater ; or a mixed preparation is as follows ; cup and a half sugar, grated rind and juice of two large oranges, juice of two lem- ons, two tablespoons butter, three yolks and one whole egg added last. Use as in either way in Lemon Tarts, or spread cold between layers of cake. In baking the tarts, it is sometimes necessary to^ cover with paper or place a pan above them on upper grate. Prune Tarts. — Scald prunes, remove stones, take out kernel.'j and put latter into a little cranberry juice with the prunes and sugar ; simmer till tender, and when cold fill any shells. Raisin Tarts. — Heaping coffee-cup stoned and chopped raisins, two small cups powdered sugar, grated rind and juice of two lemons. Put all together in bowl and set in tea-kettle till sugar is dissolved ; when cool fill Patty Shells. Rasphemj Tarts. — Prepare Cut Shells, and glaze with sugar boiled till it threads, sprinkling pounded loaf sugar over also. Boil more sugar, adding very little water, and the sugar left from glaze until it almost candies, and mash and stir in about a third of the raspberries to be used * skim, cook five or ten minutes, remove from fire and let syrup cool. Fill the shells with fresh raspberries, cover with the cool syrup and serve. Straivherry ox Currant Tartsvand^ same. Or when the shells are nearly or quite done take from oven and ice, returning to oven a moment or two to set the icing before filling. Whipped cream may be served over fruit instead of syrup. Strawberry Vol-au- Vent. — Make a Vol-au-Vent case as illus- trated in Tart Shells only not quite so large as one for Chicken or Oyster Fricassee. When nearly done, use Pastry Frosting as directed. When done, remove the interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with strawberries, which should be nicely stemmed and sweetened. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the top and serve. Or the paste may be rolled to about one and a half inches thick, and cut out with a large fluted cutter; bake in quick oven, and brush as above, or with Pastry Glaze.* Always detach the cover, made as directed in Tart Shells, as soon as baked, and when care- fully removing the crumb, if the edges of Vol-au-Vent look thin in places, cover with small flakes from inside, put on with white of an egg. This precaution is necessaryto prevent the fruit (or fricassee) from bursting the case. If stewed fruit is used, after cooking it, boil the syrup till finite thick and add to fruit ; fill the Vol-au-Vent with this, sprinkle over a little powdered sugar and return to oven to glaze, or use the hot salamander. Any fruit may be used. Cannelons. — Roll Puff Paste very thin, and cut into pieces of equal size, about two inches wide and eight long ; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet edges with white of egg, and foldpastt •PASTRY. f^7 over twice ', slightly press edges together, that jam may not escape in frying, and when all are prepared, fry in smoking lard until a nice brown, setting in oven a few minutes, that the paste may be thor- oughly done. Dish on a napkin, sprinkle sifted sugar over and serve. Very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants ; they should be laid in the paste, plenty of granulated sugar sprinkled over, folded and fried as above. Or make a stiff paste with a quarter pound flour, half as much white sugar, half cup molted butter and tablespoon grated lemon peel or essence lem- on ; roll rather thin ; make little tubes of stiff paper, about three inches long by one in diameter, butter the outside well and wrap each in some of the paste, close neatly on one side, and bake a few minutes in a quick oven ; when done and cooled a little, take out the card and fill with a jelly or marmalade, smoothing over open ends with knife dipped in water. Cheese-caJc^. — Cook a cup each sweet and sour milk in custard kettle until it curds ; rub the curd through sieve and add to it a cup sugar beaten with yolks of four eggs, a pinch of salt and the juice and grated rind of a lemon, and a tablespoon melted butter is some- times added. Line patty-pans with Puff Paste rolled very thin, put tablespoon of above mixture in each and bake fifteen or twentv min- utes in moderate oven. Let cool in the pans before removing. Nice for dessert, luncheon or supper. Plum Cohhler. — Take quart flour, four tablespoons melted lard, half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder ; mix as for bis- cuit, wnth either sweet milk or water, roll thin, and line a pudding dish, about two inches deep, or dripping-pan, nine by'eighteen inches ; mix three tablespoons flour and two of sugar together, and sprinkle over crust ; then pour in three pints canned damson plums, and sprinkle over them one coffee-cup sugar ; wet edges with a little flour and water mixed, put on upper crust, press edges together, make two openings by cutting two incisions at right angles an inch in length, and bake in quick oven half an hour. Any kind of fresh or canned fruit, can be used same way, adding with fresh fruit, cold water to half fill the dish, after fruit is put in. A Quaker Paste may be used, rolling twice as thick as for ordinary pies, and some prefer to use only an upper crust, and fur Peach Cohhler pare and halve freestones, but only pare and gash clings, leaving in the stones, and sweeten if necessary. For Apple Cohhler, j^oxe and quarter moderately tart apples and finish as above. For Berry Cohhler, line the deep*^ dish with a Graham Paste, rolled as above, fill with any berries, sweeten, cover with crust and bake. Some prick upper crust as well as cut the slits as in Plum Col)bler. Use no water in either berry cobbler or Cherry Cohhler which is made as the former. 638 PASTRY. Fanchonettes. — Line patty-pans with a paste, place a piece of bread in each and bake in a cool oven ; when baked, remove bread and place an almond macaroon in each and cover the macaroon with half quince and half red currant jelly. Have paper cone, (same as used in Ornamental Icing) filled with meringue and drop a spoonful in center on jelly ; then from the paper cone drop a small cone-shaped pile of meringue on the center of what is already on the jelly ; then drop five or six around it. This will give a circle of cones with one in center; the cones will not look well if too small ; the}' should be as large as a twenty-five cent piece and at least one inch in height ; put tlieni in oven just to color. When cold drop just a little red currant jelly on the point of each cone. This is one of the prettiest of fancy pastry dishes, and is an' elegant ornament. Almond Flowers. — Roll Puff Paste out quarter inch thick, and Avith a round fluted cutter, two and a half or three inches in diameter, cut out the number of pieces required. Work rest of paste up again, roll it out, and with a smaller cutter cut out pieces an inch in diam- eter. Brush larger pieces over with white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch and cut almonds into strips lengthwise; press them slanting into paste closely around smaller circles, sift over powdered sugar and bake twenty minutes. Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in center of top a little strawberry jam ; pile high on disli and serve. To make Almond Tahlets., roll Puff Paste very thin and cut with the pastry jagger into strips three inches and a lialf long, and an inch and a half wide. Spread half of them with a thin filmy layer of jam or marmalade, (not jelly) lay on each a strip without jam and bake in quick oven. When well risen and brown take out, brush with Pastry Frosting as directed, sj^rinkle chopped almonds over and return to oven till frosting is well set. and almonds just colored. Serve hot or cold on napkin, piled log-cabin fashion. RissoleUes. — Roll out very thin, about as thick as a fifty-cent piece, any trimmings of Pufi' Paste ; put about half tablespoon mar- malade or jam on it, in places about an inch apart,wet lightly round each, and place a piece of paste over all ; take a small round cutter an inch and a half in diameter and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is with the thick i)art of the cutter ; cut them out with a cutter a size larger, lay on ])aking tin, ]>rush over with white of egg; add the inch circles as in Almond Flowers and finish in same way, omitting the almonds. Serve in pyramidal form. Preserve Sayidvnches. — Roll Puff Paste out thin and place in a square baking pan, cut to fit, and sprer.d with peach, green-gage or any preserve ; place over this another thin layer of paste, press edges well together and lightly mark the top crosswise in lines one inch apart, and lengthwise two inches apart, to show where to cut when PASTEY. 63V* done. Bake half an hour and just before done use Pastry Frosting as directed and brown in oven. When cold, cut off in the two-inch lengths, arrange in a circle overlapping each other, as illustrated and serve with whipped cream ^_^^^^_^^^__^^^^^^ in center. For Raspberry Sandvnches^ take a Preserve Sandwiches. plccc of Puff Pastc, Toll It out again a quartcr inch thick and fold it over evenly like a sheet of paper. Roll this out an eighth of an inch in thickness and about twelve inches in width ; then roll up in a roll, the same as a sheet of paper, two inches or two and a half inches, in diameter ; when rolled up wet the edge so that it will not unfold ; press it flat until reduced to about three- fourths of an inch in thickness ; with a sharp knife cut off slices a quarter inch thick, lay these on the pan, cut part down, giving them room to rise, and bake them. When done frost as above, return to oven or hold hot salamander over them ; then spread on raspberry jam or jelly, and stick two together, making a pretty and delicious dish. Orange Short-cake. — One quart flour, two tablespoons butter, two teaspoons baking powder thoroughly mixed with the flour; mix with cold water, not very stiff, work as little as possible, bake, split open, and lay sliced oranges between ; cut in squares and serve with pudding sauce. Berries may be used instead of oranges. Peach Short-cake. — Bake three sheets of sponge-cake as for jelly cake ; cut peaches in thin slices and sprinkle with sugar a few minutes before using, keeping closely covered ; prepare cream by whipping, sweetening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired ; put layers of peaches between the sheets of cake, and also on top, and pour the cream over each layer and over the top. Strawberry and Raspberry Short-cake made same way. Or, instead of the whipped cream, spread a meringue over each layer of fruit, allowing white of one egg for each layer. Strawberry Short-cake. — Two heaping teaspoons baking powder sifted into one quart flour, scant half cup butter, two tablespoons sugar, salt, scant pint cold sweet milk, or water, to make a soft dough ; roll out almost as thin as pie crust, place one layer in baking pan, and spread with very little butter, upon which sprinkle some flour, then add another layer of crust and spread as before, and so on un- til crust is all used. This makes four layers in pan fourteen inches by seven. Bake about fifteen minutes in quick oven, turn out up- side down, take off top layer (the bottom when baking), place on a dish, spread plentifully with strawberries, not mashed, previously sweetened with pulverized sugar, place layer upon layer, treating each in same way, put cake in oven a few minutes, and serve warm with sugar and cream. The secret of having light dough is to handle it as little and mix it as quickly as possible. Short-cake 640 PASTRY. is delicious covered with whipped cream or a meringue. For Sara- toga Short-cake, which is very elegant, bake sponge-cake in three or four layers, or cut the sheet obtained from baker to fit the platter, and build by placing on each layer or sheet, a layer of strawberries prepared as above, and covering with custard, previously made as follows : Heat pint milk with half cup sugar to almost boiling, then stir in well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and stir until it begins to thicken ; let cool and flavor with vanilla or almond extract. May be handsomely finished by placing layer of berries on tup, covered with a meringue of the whites of eggs ; or leave off the berries and whip into the meringue enough bright ielly to color nicely and heap on^ top. Or, if wanted served individually, line paper cases with strips of sponge-cake cut to fit the sides, tlien fit in a bottom piece and fill with the following preparation. Mash ^.nw,^^ quart strawberries with two cu])s sugar and rub ^^B^^^^ia^ through sieve ; dissolve one and a half ounces gel- '^''^^'*^ ^=^7 -^-^^^^^ atine in a cup milk, set where it will warm gradu- Saratoga shon ,iie. ally ; whip three pints thick sweet cream, to a froth, then whip in dissolved gelatine, add strawberry pulp, and when ])artialiy stifiened fill the prepared cases, cover each with a layer of strawberries, care- fully setting each berry on end, and sprinkle powdered sugar over. Put away in cool place until ready to serve. The above quantity will fill fifty cases, and may be served in Patty Shells or Vol-au-vents instead of the cases, and with much less trouble. The flavor of strawberries is much improved by mixing with each quart berries before sprinkling with sugar, two or three oranges, cut into bits about the size of berries, or simply adding the orange juice. PICKLES. C>4 1 PICKLES. In making pickles use none but the best cider vinegar, and boil in porcelain kettle — never in metal. A lump of alum size of small nutmeg, to gallon of cucumbers, dissolved and added to the vinegar when scalding the pickles the first time, renders them crisp and ten- der, but too much is injurious. Keep in a dry, cool cellar, in glass or stone jars; if in latter look at them frequently and remove all soft ones ; if white specks appear in vinegar, drain off and scald, adding a liberal handful sugar to each gallon, and pour again over pickles ; bits of horse-radish and a few cloves assist in preserving the life of vinegar. If put away in large stone jars, invert a saucer over top of pickles, to keep them well under the vinegar. The nicest way to put up pickles of all kinds is in bottles or in self-sealing glass cans, sealing while hot, and keeping in a cool, dark place. When porcelain-lined tops are not used always grease inside of can lids, as it prevents the moisture from adhering to, and rusting them. For the bottles take old pickle bottles Avith corks, or wide-mouthed bot- tles without covers. Have ready cloth covers cut round to fit over mouth of bottle, sealing-wax and strij)s of muslin as wide as tape for tying. Many think that mustard seed improves pickles, espec- ially Chopped, Florida and Mangoes, but use it, as well as horse- radish and cloves, sparingly. For Pickles in Brine, never put them in any thing that has held any kind of grease, but use an oaken tub or cask, keep them well under, and have more salt than will dissolve, so that there will always be plenty at bottom of cask, and never let them freeze. The brine should be strong enough to bear an egg ; make it in proportion of a heaping pint of coarse salt to a gallon of 642 PICKLES. water. It is better to err in using too much salt, as this may be corrected by letting pickles soak longer in water when wanted, add- ing weak vinegar at first, then draining and adding strong vinegar ; but if not sufficiently salted the pickles will be insipid. In making any pickles by first placing in salt overnight or longer, use coarse salt, and test by tasting pickles before putting on vinegar, as they should be of a pleasant saltness ; if not salt enough, add more salt and allow them to stand until they have acquired the proper flavor ; if too salt, cover with weak vinegar, and let stand for two or three days, drain, adding strong vinegar, either hot or cold according to recipes, and finish as directed. In scalding cucumber pickles, to green them, some use cabbage or grape leaves, covering bottom, sides and top of kettle. A medium spicing for a quart of pickles is a level teaspooneach pepper-corns, (whole black peppers), celery seed and allspice, tablespoon broken stick cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves, mustard seed, and grated horse-radish, and apiece of ginger root, an inch long. If cayenne pepper is used instead of whole peppers, an eighth of a teaspoon is enough. A better substitute for pepper-corns is garden-peppers cut in rings, in proportion of two rings of green and one of red without seeds, or a level teaspoon, when finely chopj)ed,to a quart of pickles. These proportions may be increased or decreased to suit the taste, taking care not to put in so much of any one as to make its flavor predominate. Ginger is the most wholesome of the spices. Cloves are the strongest, mace next, then allspice and cinnamon, and, of course, less of the stronger should be used. Pickles are not famous for wholesome qualities, even when made with the greatest care, but if they must be eaten, it is best to make them at home. Those sold in market are often colored a beau- tiful green with sulphate of copper, which is a deadly poison, or are cooked in brass or copper vessels, which produces the same result in an indirect way. Scalding or parboiling articles to be pickled makes them absorb the vinegar more easily, but does not add to their crispness. Before putting them in vinegar, after parboiling, they should be cold and per fectli/ dri/. Always use strong vinegar, or the pickles will be insipid, and it should be scalding hot when poured on, as raw vinegar becomes ropy and docs not keep well. As lieating weakens it, vinegar for pickles should be verj/ strong, and sliouldonlybe brought to hoiling 2)oint, and immediately^owxedi on pickles. Keep pickles from the air, and when put away in stone PICKLES, 643 jars, if hot vinegar is used, cover, hut do not tie dovm closely till cold; a good covering is first a cloth, then an oil-cloth cover tied over jar; always see that the vinegar is at least two inches over top of the pickles. A dry wooden spoon or ladle should be used in handling pickles, and is the only kind that should touch pickles in jars. If the vinegar loses its strength it should be replaced by fresh, poured over scalding hot. Some keep pickles from molding by plac- ing horse-radish or grape leaves over them ; this also gives a nice flavor. Clove of Garlic, given in recipes, is a piece size of small bean. Pickled Apples. — Procure green apples size of walnuts and cook till tender over slow fire in pan with thick layer of vine leaves on bottom. Pare with sharp knife, put in same w^ater first cooked in, cover closely and leave till a nice green ; drain in colander till cold, put in jars with some mace and a clove or two of garlic, accord- ing to quantity apples, cover with vinegar and tie down as directed. Pickled Artlcholies. — Rub off outer skin with a coarse towel, and lay in saltwater for a day, drain and pour over them cold spiced vinegar, adding a teaspoon horse-radish to each jar. Or boil the ar- tichokes in strong salt and water two or three minutes, drain on a hair sieve and when cold, place in jars. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them with a blade or two of mace, some root ginger, and a nutmeg grated fine. Pour it over hot, seal and put away for use. Pickled Barherries. — Leave the berries on stems, lay in stone jar and fill Avithcold vinegar. Good pickles, and nice for garnishing Pickled Beans. — Pick green beans of best variety when j'oung and tender, string, and place in kettle to boil, with salt to taste, until they can be pierced with a fork ; drain through colander, put in stone jar, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, and cover with strong cider vine- gar ; sugar may be added if desired. Or gather young beans and put in strong brine of salt and water ; when turning yellow, which will be in a day or two, take out and wipe dry. Boil vmegar, adding two ounces pepper and one ounce each ginger and mace to each quart, and pour over the beans. A small bit of alum, or teaspoon soda will bring back the color. Cover to keep in steam, reboil vine- ga?r next day and pour over hot as before. Or string, Avash and cook till tender, take off", cool, and salt as if to use fresh ; pack away in a stone jar or nice tub, add a weight, then prepare a weak brine and pour over; cover, and in a few weeks they will be sour. Pickled Beets. — Select fine red beets and be careful to clean without bruising the skin, or they will lose much of their color and 644 TICKLES. sweetness in cooking. Boil two hours and Avhen cold rub off skin and place whole in jar, (some slice them but they are not as fresh when served) ; cover with vinegar, first boiled with si)ices in propor- tion of half an ounce each cloves, pepper-corns, mace and ginger to each pint, adding when cold another pint ; cover closeh' and they will be ready for use next day, when they can be sliced as Avanted. Or take a half cup sugar to each pint vinegar, flavoring to taste with cinnamon and cloves, boil and pour over beets and repeat this sev- eral days. Before serving cut the slices into stars, leaves or any s])apes fancied, and a very ornamental dish results. If white beets are pickled separately, the slices in same shapes are a nice addition, alternated with the red. Pickled Cabbage. — Shave firm white cabbage into Avooden or earthen vessel, sprinkling in handful salt to each cabbage, and let stand overnight ; then drain off brine, pressing cabbage Avell and pack in earthen jars in layers with half cup mustard seed to each head, sprinkled through; fill up Avith cold vinegar, cover closely and keep in cool dark place. Or quarter small solid heads, and boil in Aveak salt Avater until the}^ can be pierced through Avith a straAV ; then lay on dishes and put in sun an hour or tAvo to drain and bleach. Put in jar, pour over enough AA^eak A'inegar to cover Avith a teaspoon tumeric stirred in, and let stand one Aveek. Pour off" and fill jar AA'ith best cider vinegar, in Avhich is mixed one cup ground mustard, half cup mustard seed, and a little sugar; put in also a few spices of different kinds in a little bag. Cover closely; ready for use in a few days and Avill come out a bright yelloAV. Pickled CauUHower or Onions prepared same way. For Pickled Red Cabbage., procure nice heads of red or purple cabbage, pull oft loose leaves, slice fine, pack in a stone jar, sprinkle through Avell with salt and let stand tAventy-four hours. Prepare vinegar as folloAA's : To a gallon, add an ounce each mace and pepper corns, and a little mustard seed. Drain cabbage, put back in jar, scald vinegar and sjaces, and pour over, repeating the scalding two or three times, and cover jar very tight. When done, the cabbage Avill be a handsome red color, A^ery ornamental. It Avill be fit for use in a AVGck or tAvo, if kept very long the cal^bage is liable to get soft and discolored. For this reason only a small (}uantity should be made at a time. White cabbage may be pickled same. Some spice the vinegar Avith three pieces root ginger, a pod red })epper, and quarter ounce cloves to each quart, adding also an onion if liked. A little grated horse-radish and celery seed may be mixed Avith the cabbage Avhen put l)ack in jar if desired. Or ^Vitli Peppers., chop fine tAVo- thirds firm red cabbage and one- third green peppers, removing seeds of latter. Pour a Aveak Ijrine over one gallon of the mixture, let stand tAA'cnty-four hours, drain Avell and add taldespoon each whole cloves and ground cinna- mon, half cup black mustard seed and a few pepper-corns. Mix well, PICKLES. 645 put in stone jar and pour over boiling vinegar to cover, to whicla ft little sugar may have been added, if wished. Some do not soak in the brine, but add two tablespoons of salt with the spices. Keep in cool place ; pieces of cauliflower added assume a fine color. For Imitation Pickles^ chop fine white cabbage and cold boiled beets ; to one quart each, take cup each sugar and grated horse-radish, table- spoon salt and teaspoon black pepper ; cover with cold vinegar and tie up closely. Some add a pinch cayenne and any spices wished. For Rhine Pickles, take off the large outside leaves of a head of white cabbage ; slice the inside very fine and wrap up in the large leaves, tying securely with twine. Boil till tender, remove leaves and drain cabbage very dry ; boil quart vinegar with cup sugar, a few pepper-corns and allspice fifteen minutes ; place cabbage in jar, pour hot vinegar over it, and put on a weight to keep it well under. Pickled Carrots. — Scald small carrots, and rub and wash ofi" the skin ; parboil in salted water, drain, and put in jar. Boil vinegar enough to cover, and let stand twenty-four hours. Then drain off vinegar and boil it again. Put one bay leaf and three or four cloves with carrots, add a little salt to the boiling vinegar, pour over car- rots again and cover as in general directions. These pickled car- rots are as good as pickled beets, care being taken not to get them cooked soft when parboiling, and make a variety in color. Pickled CaulHiower. — Choose fine ones and good size, cut away all leaves, and pull away the flowers by bunches ; soak in brine that will float an egg, for two days, drain, put in bottles with whole black pepper, allspice, and stick cinnamon ; boil vinegar, and with it mix mustard smoothly, a little at a time till just thick enough to run into the jars, pour over the cold cauliflower and seal while hot. An equal quantity or less of small white onions, prepared as directed in recipe for Pickled Onions, may be added before the vinegar is poured over. Or for twelve heads cauliflower take five quarts vine- gar, five cups brown sugar, six eggs, one bottle French mustard, two tablespoons ginger, a little garlic, two green peppers, one-half teaspoon cayenne, butter size of an egg, one ounce pulverized tur- meric. Beat well together the eggs, sugar, mustard, ginger, and turmeric, then boil in vinegar, with garlic and peppers, ten minutes. Boil cauliflower in salt water until tender, place carefully in jar and pour over boiling-hot mixture. Some add tablespoon celery seed. Pickled Celery. — Save the solid white roots of celery, that are usually thrown away, trim, cut in thick slices, boil in salted water about ten minutes, drain, and put in jar. Boil vinegar enough to cover, with a tablespoon whole pepper-corns and pour over celery. After standing a day, drain off" vinegar, mix a little mustard and cayenne with it and pour back into jar. This somewhat resembles chowchow, and other kinds of pickles can be added. Close the jar 646 PICKLES. tightly. For Pickled Celery vnth Cabbage^ put together in porce- lain-lined kettle two quarts finely chopped white cabbage, two quarts clioi^ped celery three quarts vinegar, half ounce each crushed white ginger root and turmeric, fourth pound white mustard seed, two tablespoons salt, five of sugar ; cook slowly several hours until cabbage and celery are tender, put in jar and cover closely. Pickled Cherries. — Leave stems on fine red, not too ripe, cherries, and for each quart take a pint vinegar and cup sugar; boil these together ten minutes, skim, and when cold pour over the cherries, packed in jar. Cover closely. If the fruit is nice the pickles will be ver)'^ handsome, and are nice for garnishing. Pickled Egps. — Boil the eggs ten or fifteen minutes, dip in cold Avater, take off shells and prepare the vinegar by boiling Avith each quart, a half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pepper and ginger tied in a bag ; put eggs in jar, pour boiling vinegar over, put in bag of spices, and when cold tie down to exclude the air. The above will pickle about sixteen eggs. Some spice with two teaspoons each alls})ice, cinnamon and mace to each quart vinegar, and dilute with ])int water. Eggs are also nice pickled with beets, or in the vinegar from them, and are not only always relishable but ornamen- tal as well, and nice for garnishing. Pickled Gherkins. — Procure small cucumbers, from an inch and a half to two inches long and put them in salt and Avater for three or four days ; then take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put in stone jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, ten minutes, with spices and pepper in proportion of one ounce bruised ginger, one- half ounce pepper-corns, one-fourth ounce Avhole allspice, four cloves, and two blades of mace, to each quart vinegar, adding also a little horseradish ; pour this boiling hot over the gherkins, cover with grape leaves, and put a plate over the jar. which set overnight near the fire. Next day drain off" the vinegar, boil again and pour it hot over them. Cover with fresh leaves and Avhen quite cold tie down with oil-cloth and in a month or two pickles will be ready for use. Pickled Grapes. — Cut bunches when hardly ripe and put in jar with vine leaves between each layer of grapes until jar is filled ; then take as much water as Avill cover grapes and leaves, and add salt till strong enough to bear an egg ; when it lioils, skim, strain through flannel bag and let stand to settle ; strain a second time and pour upon' the grapes, which must be well covered ; fill jar Avith vine leaA'es, tie over a double cloth, set a plate upon it and stand tAvo days ; then take off' the cloth, pour away the brine, take out leaA'es and grapes, and lay them between two cloths to dry; boil tAvo quarts vinegar Avith one of Avater, and pound sugar, and skim A-ery clean ; let stand till cold. AA'ij^e the jar A'ery clean and dry, lay fresh A'ine leaves at the bottom, betAveen every bunch grapes and on top ; PICKLES. 647 strain the pickle on the grapes, filling the jar; tie a thin piece of board in flannel, lay it on the grapes to keep them under the pickle and tie down closely with cloth and paper. Pickled Lemons. — Cut the lemons lengthwise, quartering them, but not through the rind at the ends nor quite through the pulp, and fill the slits with salt ; put where they will dry, either in the hot sun or by the stove ; when perfectly dried, spice vinegar, enough to cover them, with cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger root, and a little mus- tard seed, adding onion if liked ; pour it boiling hot over the lem- ons ; keep a year before using, when they will be found excellent ; they require more vinegar than other pickles, as the lemons will swell natural size. Or peel the lemons, slit each down three times, but do not divide them, and rub salt well into the incisions ; place them in a pan, where they must remain for a week ; turn every other day, then put them near the fire until the salt has become perfectly dry ; arrange them in a jar, pour over sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them, spiced as above or to taste ; tie down closely and they will be ready for use in about nine months. Pickled Limes. — Cut limes open, fill with salt and lay in the sun to dry. In two weeks wash off salt and put them in a jar in alter- nate layers, with the following spices : Allspice, cloves, white mus- tard seed and sliced horse-radish ; fill up jar with hot vinegar, and let stand four weeks, when they will be ready lor use. Pickled Nasturtiums. — It is best to gather the green seeds on a dry day. This is also necessary in picking any vegetables for pickling. Some put seeds in vinegar for a day, then drain, boil the vinegar, adding a little salt, a few pepper-corns, a small bit of green ginger root, or mace and a pinch of sugar. Pour over the seeds boiling hot, and cork tightly. Or soak as gathered for twenty- four hours, drain, place in cold vinegar and when all wished are thus prepared, drain, and cover with boiling vinegar, not spiced. Or if putting up a quantity, let soak in brine three days, drain and finish as above. Nasturtium pickles are a delicious relish with cold meat or raw oys- ters, and are an excellent substitute for capers in sauces. Pickled Oiiions. — Select small Silver-skin onions, remove with a knife all the outer-skins, so that each onion will be perfectly white and clean ; put into brine that will float an egg, for three days, drain, or dry with a cloth, place in jar, first a layer of onions three inches deep, then a sprinkling of horse-radish, cinnamon bark,cloves, and a little cayenne pepper; repeat until jar is filled, in proportion of half teaspoon cayenne pepper, two teaspoons each grated horse- radish and cloves, and four tablespoons cinnamon bark, to a gallon pickles ; bring vinegar to a boiling point, add brown sugar in pro- portion of a quart to a gallon of vinegar, and pour hot over onions. Some, after soaking, put in glass cans, adding spices, and small red 648 PICKLES. peppers, or rings of large ones, fill with cold vinegar and seal ; put- ting tablespoon salad oil over top of each can will prevent onions turn- ing 3'ellow. Do not cut onions so much in peeling that they will fall apart. Some scald spices with the vinegar instead of putting in lay- ers, while others like flavor of equal quantities white mustard, cor- iander and celery seed, allspice, and pepper-corns. If wanted very nice and white prepare as follows : Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when quite dry and ripe ; wipe off dirt, but do not pare ; make a strong brine of salt and water, put in the onions, change this, morning and night, for three days, and save the last l)rine. Take off the outside skin, and put onions in tin saucepan with equal quantities milk and the last brine ; add two tablespoons salt, put over fire, and constantly turn the onions about with a wooden skimmer, letting milk and water run through holes of skim- mer, but the onions must not boil, and in stirring be careful not to l)reak them. Have ready a pan Avith a colander, into wdiich turn the onions to drain, covering with a cloth to keep in steam. Place on a table an old cloth two or three times double ; put the onions on this when quite hot, covering closely with an old piece of blanket to keep in the steam ; let remain till next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and shrivelled ; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white as snow, and i)ut in jar. Make a pickle of vinegar and spices in i)roportion of an ounce each bruised ginger, allspice, Avliole black pepper, one grated nutmeg, quarter ounce mace, eiglit cloves and a teaspoon cayenne to two quarts vinegar ; boil and pour hot over the onions. Cover very closely to keep in all steam, and let stand over night. Put them into jars or bottles, cover with the spiced vinegar, put a tablespoon best olive oil on the top of each jar, tie down closely and let stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit for use. They should ])e beautifully white and crisp, Avithout the least softness, and will keep good many months. Pickled Spanish Onions are prepared by cutting in thin slices ; put a layer in bottom of jar, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, then add another layer of onions, season as before, and so on until jar is full ; pour in sufficient vine- gar to cover the whole, and the pickle will be fit for use in a month. Pickled Peaches. — Take those of full growth, but perfectl}'- green. To a gallon of vinegar add half ounce each cloves, pepper- corns, sliced ginger, mustard seed and a little salt, bbil and pour over the peaches scalding hot. Drain off vinegar from them several mornings, heat scalding hot, and pour over them. Pickled Plums. — Take plums before they are quite ripe, and put in saueci)an with vinegar, salt water, fennel seed, and dill, as much of eacli as will impart a flavor to pickle; when it l)oilsput in jtlunis, let boil again, then take off, let stand till cold, and put in jars. PICKLES, 649 Pickled Radish Pods. — Pick off green seed-pods of radishes while tender and put in jars of salt and water. When enough have been gathered, drain off salt and water, boil it and pour hot upon the pods ; cover, let remain till cold, boil and pour over the pods again, and after that twice more ; then drain the pods dry and put back in jar. Boil enough good vinegar to cover them with a small piece of race ginger and some pepper-corns ; pour it hot over the pods and let stand till cold. Boil and repeat twice more. Tie down when cold and keep in a cool place. If enough is gathered at once for pickles, place in salt water overnight, then proceed as above. Pickled Tomatoes. — Wipe ripe, small, round plum tomatoes, very dry, taking care not to break skin, put in jar, or can, cover with cold vinegar adding small cheese-cloth bag filled with dozen or so each cloves and pepper-corns, cork tightly and cover with melt- ed sealing wax, or screw on cover, and put in Fruit Closet. Pickled Sweet- Corn. — Take the "nubbins" of early corn where there are too many forming on the stalk, while very small and ten- der. Trim neatly, and boil them five minutes in water slightly salted. Drain and put them in a jar. Boil good vinegar enough to cover and pour it boiling hot over the corn and let remain so until next day, drain and boil the vinegar again, adding a little salt. Place corn in jar and cover with vinegar when partially cold. Cork the jar and seal it. Any spices maybe placed in jar, with a good sprink- ling of mustard seed ; and a bay leaf or two, and a few shallots may be boiled with vinegar. Pickled Walnuts. — Gather walnuts (or butternuts) when soft enough to be pierced by a large needle (in July); prick each well through, holding a cloth to avoid staining hands, cover with strong salt water, (a pint and a half salt to a gallon of water), let stand two or three days, changing brine every day ; then pour over them a brine made by dissolving salt in boiling water (let it get cold before using), let stand three days, renew brine and let stand three days more. Now drain and expose to sun for two or three days or until the nuts become black, or put in cold water for half a day, and pack in jars not quite full. The proportions are a hundred walnuts to each gallon vinegar. Boil vinegar eight minutes with cup sugar, three dozen each whole cloves and allspice, a dozen and a half pepjier- corns and a ginger root if liked, some add a few shallots also and a dozen blades of mace. Pour the vinegar over walnuts scalding hot. In three days draw off vinegar, boil and pour over walnuts again while hot, and at end of three days repeat process. They will be fit to eat in a month, and will keep for years. Or gather and pierce the nuts as above, cover them with brine, allowing one and a half pounds salt to one gallon water, and let stand in cool place three weeks. Drain in colander, wash and wipe jars, return the walnuts, 650 PICKLES. cover with best cider vinegar, and let stand one month; take out. rinse and wipe jars, put in nuts and sprinkle with an ounce mustard seed. To as much fresh vinegar as will cover them, add one ounce each cloves, black pepper, and stick cinnamon, half an ounce each mace, and race ginger, and boil ten minutes. When cold pour over r""*s, cover, seal and keep as above. Choj^ped Pickies. — Take a peck green tomatoes, wash clean, cu., away a small piece from each end, but do not pare them, slice and place in a large wooden bowl, chop tine, place in a crock and mix salt with them (half pint to a peck), let stand twenty-four hours, and drain thoroughly ; take twice or three times as much cabbage as chopped tomatoes, chop fine, mix salt in same propor- tions, add enough water to make moist, and let stand same time as tomatoes ; drain, place again in separate jars, cover each with cold weak vinegar; after twenty-four hours drain cabbage well, pressing hard to extract all juice ; place tomatoes and the vinegar in a por- celain kettle and boil ten minutes, stirring all the time, pour out, and when cold, ])lace in a towel and wring and press until perfectly dry ; now mix tomatoes and cabbage together, take a double hand- ful at a time, squeeze as tightly as possible, and place in _ a dry crock ; take stone jar in which they are to be pickled, place in it a layer of tomatoes and cabbage, scatter over chopped peppers, whole mustard seed, and grated or chopped horse-radish, then another layer of tomatoes and cabbage, next spice, and so on until jar is al- most full, occasionally sprinkling with cayenne pepper; cover with strong cider vinegar, let stand overnight, drain oflt" vinegar, boil, add- ing a cup sugar to each gallon and pour over pickles. Place a saucer or piece of broken china on the pickles to keep them under vine- gar. If a white scum rises, drain off vinegar, boil, skim, and pour hot over the pickles. Prepare mustard, peppers, and horse-radish, as follows and add to the pickles : Take three green or ripe garden peppers (four tablespoons when cho])ped), cut in two, place in salt Avater overnight, and next morning drain and chop quite fine : to two tablespoons mustard seed add saltspoon salt, pour on boiling water let stand fifteen minutes, drain; add also three or four tablespoons grated horse-radish. Tomatoes with Onions are excellent prepared same way. For Sliced Pickles, take cucumbers and onions, or to- matoes and onions, slice and prepare as above. Some add to the Chopped P/(?/tZe5 a doxen large green cucumbers, four large Silver- skin onions, two red peppers, two ounces celery seed and more horse-radish. For a very nice pickle called Ladies' Deliqh t put eight ounces each chopped onions and apples, and two of chopped chillies, (cayenne pepper pods), in a jar. Boil pint vinegar with a large tablespoon salt, and pour this over, mix well, and when quite cold put it into smaller jars if preferred. To be eaten with cold meat. In the first recipe, the vinegar maybe drained off, reheated and poured over the pickles three or four times as in Variety Pickles. PICKLES. 651 Cucurtiber Pickles. — Take half bushel medium-sized, fresh cu- cumbers, picked and rinsed carefully as directed in Pickles in Brine ; pack close in stone jar, sprinkle over top one pint salt, pour over sufficient quantity boiling water to cover them, place a cloth over jar, and let stand until cold or overnight ; drain off water, and place pickles on stove in cold vinegar ; let come to a boil, take out, place in stone jar, and cover with either hot or cold fresh vinegar. They will be ready for use in a few days, and are excellent. It is an improve- ment to add a few spices, and a small quantity of sugar with boiling- hot vinegar, first using lump of alum, as in following recipe. For Flor- ida Pickles, select cucumbers about two inches long, prepare with salt and boiling water as above, when cold, drain, and place a gallon at a time on stove in enough cold weak vinegar to cover, to which a lump of alum, size of a small hickory nut (too much is injurious) has been added. Have on stove, in another kettle, a gallon very best cider vinegar, to Avhich add half pint brown sugar or more if wished ; have bottles cleansed and in pan of water as on page 146 ; also have tin cup or small pan sealing-wax heated; have spices prepared, on table, in separate dishes as follows : Green and red peppers soaked as in Chopped Pickles, then sliced in rings; horse- radish roots washed, scraped, and cut in small pieces ; black and yellow mustard seed (or these may be left outj, prepared by sprinkling with salt and pouring on some boiling water, which let stand fifteen minutes and then draw off; stick cinnamon washed free from dust, and broken in pieces, a few cloves, and table- spoon celery seed. When pickles come to boiling point, take out and pack in bottles, mixing with them the spices, using cloves, horse-radish and mustard seed sparingly ; put in a layer of pickles, then a layer of spices, shaking the bottle occasionally so as to pack tightly ; when full cover with the boiling-hot vinegar from the other kettle (using a bright funnel and handled coffee cup), filling up a second time in order to supply shrinkage, for pickles must ' e en- tirely covered with vinegar. Put in corks, which should fit very snugly, lift each bottle (wrap a towel around it to prevent burning the hands), and dip corked end into hot sealing-wax; proceed in this manner with each bottle, dipping each a second time into wax so that they may be perfectly secure. If corks seem too small, place them in boiling water before using ; if too large, pound the sides with a hammer. The tighter they fit in bottles the better. Glass cans, the tops or covers of which have become defective, can be used by supplying them with corks, or using cloth covers, as di- rected in preface ; tjdng on one, then dipping in melted sealing-wax and quickly tying on another, dipping as above. Some even in using corks put on a cloth cover first, then the cork, finish- ing as directed. New glass cans with porcelain tops may of course be used as in Canning Fruit. Pickles thus bottled are far more wholesome than, and are really superior to the best 652 PICKLES. brand of imported pickles, and by having materials in readiness, prepared as directed, the process is neither difficult nor tedious but it requires two persons to bottle them successfully. If the market is depended upon for the cucumbers, secure them as freshly picked as i^ossible and always toith a short piece of stem attached^ as they will then keep more perfectly. For Pickles in Brine, cover a bottom of a cask with common salt ; gather cucumbers every other day, early in morning or late in evening, as it does not injure the vines so much then as in the heat of the day,if of the Long Green vari- ety, those five or six inches in length may be used ; cut them with a lit- tle of the stem, carefully laying them in basket or pail so as not to bruise ; pour cold water over them and rinse, not wash them, being careful not to rub off the little black briers or prickers, or bruise them in any way ; this is important, as removing or bruising the briers causes the cucumbers to decay quickly, while if left on they maybe kei)t perfectly sound and good any length of time. Lay them in prepared cask three or four inches deep, cover with salt, and re- jjeat the alternate layers until all are in ; pour in some water with first layer — after this the salt will make sufficient brine. Spread a cloth over them, then a board with a stone on it. When a new supply of cucumbers is to be added, remove stone, board and cloth, wash them very clean, and wipe every particle of scum from top of ])ickles and sides of cask ; throw away any soft ones, as they will spoil the rest ; put in fresh cucumbers, layer by layer, with salt to cover each layer in proportion of pint salt to each gallon cucumbers. When cask is nearly full, cover with salt, tuck cloth closely around the edges, i)lacing board and weight on top ; cover cask closely, and the pickles will be perfect for two or three years. The brine should l)e made strong enough so that there will always be salt in bottom of cask. Cucumbers must always be put in salt as soon as picked from vines, for if they lie a day or two they will not keep. Do not be alarmed at the heavy scum that rises on them, but be careful to wash all off the board and cloth. To prepare Pickled dfcumbers, take off weight and board, carefully lift cloth with scum on it, wash stone, board and cloth clean, and wipe all scum off the cucumbers and sides of cask, take out as many as are wanted, return the cloth, board and weight, and cover closely. Place the cucumbers in a vessel large enough to hold two or three times as much water as there are pickles, cover with cold water (some use hot), and change the water each day for three days; then place porcelain kettle on lire, half full of vinegar (if vinegar is very strong add half water), fill nearly full of cucumbers, the largest first and then the smaller ones, ])ut in a lump of alum size of a nutmeg, and let come to a boil, stir- ring with wire or wooden spoon so as not to cut the cucumbers ; af- ter ))oilingone minute, skim out, place in stone jar, and continue un- til all are scalded, then pour cold vinegar over them. In two or three days, if the pickles are too salt, turn off vinegar and put on PICKLES. 653 fresh, add a pint brown sugar to each two gallons pickles, a pod or two of red pepper or pinch cayenne, a very few cloves, and some pieces of cinnamon and horse-radish. The horse-radish prevents a white scum from rising. For Self- Made Pickles, put one gallon sorghum molasses in jar or barrel with two of water and let stand until it begins to ferment ; then rinse and drain cucumbers, put them in the barrel, cover with a cloth and board with a weight on top, rinse off the cloth every time cucumbers are added. If the vinegar turns white add more molasses. These pickles will keep a year. Some use three gallons water to one of molasses and stir the pickles every day until ready for use. For Sliced Cucumher Pickles, peel and slice large, green cucumbers that would be suitable for table, and if gathered from the garden, leave a piece of the cu- cuinber on vine, as the latter "svill not l)e as much weakened and when the former are to be sliced for pickles, or used fresh, there is not the necessity for leaving on a portion of stem. Slice about one- fourth their bulk of onions ; place in a jar or crock, large enough to hold pickles when finished, a layer of sliced cucumbers, then a thin • layer of onions, and so alternating, fill jar within an inch of top. Put two or three handfuls of salt on top of pickles, which will make their own brine. Let stand twenty-four hours ; then squeeze the pickles out of biine, pack in dry intone jar and just cover with vine- gar. Make a paste of eight teaspoons fine olive oil, two dessert- spoons ground mustard and one teaspoon white pepper ; mix well together and put over top of pickles. The pickles will be ready for use in two days and will keep as long as desired. Or omit the onions, and after standing twenty-four hours drain off the liquor, ]iaek in jars, a thick layer of salt and cucumbers alternately, tie down closely and when wanted take out quantity required. Wash them well in fresh water and dress with vinegar, pepper and oil. It often happens in putting up cucumber pickles that only a few can be gathered or bought at a time; these can be easily pickled as follows : Place in jar, sprinkle with salt, in proportion of pint suit to peck cucumbers, cover with boiling water, let stand twenty-four hours, drain, cover with fresh hot water; after another twenty-four hours, drain, place in jar, and cover with cold, not very strong vinegar ; continue to treat each lot in this manner, using two jars, one for scalding and the other as a final receptacle for pickles, until there is enough for pickling, when drain and cover with boil- ing cider vinegar, add spices, and in a few days they will be ready for use. Sugar may be added if wished. Always use fresh vinegar, either hot or cold, to pour over salted pickles that have been cooked in plain vinegar, or vinegar with a lump of alum in it. All cucum- bers and sour pickles kept in stone jars, can be made as good as new at any time, by draining off old vinegar, and pouring over fresh, boiling hot, adding a little sugar. It well repays one to do this late in the Winter. Cider vinegar is the only kind we have recommended, 654 PICKLES. as it is the best one can buy ; but the Economical Vinegar given in Kitchen, which is really a liome-made cider yinegar is equally good, and has been thoroughly tested and ''not found ^vanting." Hipe CuGumler Pickles. — Take twonty-four large cucumbers, ripe and sound, six white onions, four large red peppers; pare and remove seeds from cucuml)ers, chop well, not too fine ; then chop onions and peppers fine,' mix thoroughly with cup salt, and ounce white mustard and place in a muslin bag; drain twenty-four hours, remove to glass jars, cover with cold yinegar and seal. Will keep a long time and are excellent. French Pickles. — Take one peck green tomatoes, six large on- ions sliced, mix through them one tea-cup salt, and let stand over night ; next day drain tlioroughly, boil in one quart vinegar mixed with two quarts of water, for fifteen or twenty minutes, then take four quarts yinegar, two pounds l)rown sugar, half pound white mustard seed, two tablespoons ground allspice, and the same ofcin- , namon, cloves, ginger, and ground mustard and boil altogether fif- teen minutes, then put in jars and keep closely covered in dry, cool })lace. Or put the onions and tomatoes to drain after boiling while preparing the spiced vinegar, then put in jar and pour it over boil- ing hot. A teaspoon cayenne and six green peppers ma}'' be added if liked, and the onions may be chopped if preferred. Some prepare vinegar with one tablespoon turmeric, two of mustard and half ounce celery seed and one pound brown sugar. Higdnn Pickles. — One dozen ripe cucumbers and one quart onions chopped quite fine ; put both in a cloth, squeeze all the water out, add four green peppers, and a little celery chopped ; mix all well together and season with salt, ground cinnamon and mustard, little salad oil, black and white mustard seed and a little sugar ; cover with cold vinegar. Martynia Pickles. — Gather the pods when green and tender ; wash, wipe dry and place in jar ; take enough water to cover them, first boiling Avith it salt, in proportion of one })int to each half gallon ; skim and pour over the pods ; let stand two or three days, drain, l)lace tliem in clean, dry jar and pour over boiling vinegar, spiced as liked, and a little sugar may also be added. These are a new and delicious pickle. See Marketing for illustration of mart3mia. Mixed Pickles. — One-half peck green tomatoes, twenty-five medium-sized cucumbers, fifteen large white onions, one-lialf peck small onions, four heads cabbages, pint grated horseradish, lialf pound white mustard seed, a quarter ]iound ground mustard, half cup ground black pepper, half pint salad oil, ounce celery seed, half ounce ground cinnamon, two ounces turmeric. Slice tomatoes and large onions, cut cabbage as for slaw, quarter cucumbers lengthwise, PICKLES. 655 cut in pieces two inches long, leaving on the peel, and add small onions whole. Mix with salt thoroughly, let stand twenty-four hours; drain off juice, and pour sorne vinegar and water over pickles. Let stand a day or two, drain again as dry as possible ; mix spices well except the ground mustard, then boil one and one-half gallons best vinegar and pour boiling hot over the pickles ; do this three mornings in succession, using the same vinegar each time. The third time add one pound sugar to the vinegar and boil, pouring over as above ; also mix the oil and ground mustard together with a small portion of the vinegar, and add when cold. Oil can be omit- ted if not relished. Or for Hanover PicMes, take one peck toma- toes, half head cabbage, cut with slaw cutter ; two bunches of celery or a little celery seed, three or more small carrots, using only the red part, six onions, five bell peppers ; chop and mix together, sprinkle in seeds, and pour on a pint molasses ; heat three pints vine- gar, two tablespoons each ground cloves, cinnamon, and yellow mus- tard and pour over scalding hot. Excellent and improves with age. Pepper Plckl&s. — Procure the smallest peppers to be had when half ripe before they turn red ; make a small hole at top and bot- tom of each and with a pen-knife extract core and seed. Simmer peppers a Avhole day in salt and water over moderate fire, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Leave overnight to cool, and next morning place gently in jar, sprinkle small quantity of mustard over and fill up with cold vinegar. Or slit them down the side Avith a knife, and remove seeds, put them in a strong brine for three days, changing it every morning ; then take them out, lay on a cloth, with another over them, until perfectly free from moisture. Boil suf- ficient vinegar to cover them, with one-fourth ounce mace and nut- meg to each quart vinegar, put the pods in jar, pour over the vine- gar when cold, and tie down closely. For Chopped Pepper Pickles^ take twenty-five green peppers, more than double their bulk in cab- bage, half pint salt, one tablespoon each mustard seed, ground cloves, and allspice. Take the seeds from the peppers, and chop them fine ; chop the cabbage, and all the other ingredients, cover Wi\X\ cold vinegar, mix thoroughly, and put in closely covered jars. Pyfer Pickles. — Salt pickles down dry for ten days, soak in fresh water one day ; pour oft' water, place in porcelain kettle, cover with water and vinegar, and add teaspoon pulverized alum to eacli gallon ; set overnight on stove which had fire in during day; wash and put in jar with cloves, allspice, pepper, horse-radish and onions or garlic ; boil fresh vinegar and pour over all ; will be ready for use in two weeks. These pickles are always fresh and crisp, and are made with less trouble than the old-fashioned way in brine. Spanish Pickles. — One dozen large cucumbers, four heads cab- bage, one peck green tomatoes, one dozen onions, three ounces G5G PICKLES. ■white mustard seed, one ounce celery .seed, one ounce turmeric, small l)ox mustard, two and a half pounds brown sugar. Let the cucumbers stand in brine that Avill float an egg, three days ; slice onions, chop cabbage and tomatoes the day before making, and sprinkle with salt in proportion of half pint to a peck, "When ready to make, squeeze brine out of cucumbers, wijie off, peel and cut in slices. Drain other vegetables and put all in kettle in layers with seasoning between, just cover with vinegar, simmer all slowly half an hour, and then bottle. The cabbage, cucumbers or tomatoes, or any two of them may be omitted, if the mixture is not liked. Another way is to take one peck cucumbers, cut in pieces about an inch square, two dozen each onions and green peppers, sliced ; sprinkle with salt and let stand a day and night, then drain overnight ; have ready ounce turmeric and horse-radish, two each celery seed, white mustard, white ginger and cinnamon bark; put in a layer of pickles, then seasoning, then pickles, and so on until all are used ; pour one gallon cider vinegar over, heated with one pint brown sugar, and cover closely twenty-four hours, when it will be ready for use. Green Tomato Pickles. — Two gallons green tomatoes, sliced without peeling and twelve good sized onions, also sliced. Stew un- til quite tender, then add twoquarts vinegar, one of sugar, two small tablespoons salt, two tablesi^oons each ground mustard and black pepper, tablespoon each allspice and cloves. Put up in small jars. JRipe Tomato Plcldes. — Pare, but not scald, ripe, sound toma- toes and put in jar ; scald in vinegar any spices wished, tied in a l)ag, and pour Avhile hot over them. This recipe is much liked by those who prefer raw tomatoes. Universal Pickles. — To six quarts vinegar alloM- one pound salt, one-fourth pound ginger, one ounce mace, half pound shalots, tablespoon cayenne, two ounces mustard seed, one and a half of turmeric. Boil all together twenty minutes; when cold, put into a jar with whatever vegetables liked, such as rad- ish pods, French beans, caulifloAver, gherkins, etc., as these come into season ; put tliem in fresh as gathered, wiping them per- fectly free from moisture and grit. This juckle \d\\ be fit for use in about eight or nine months. As this pickle takes two or three months to make, nearly that time will elapse before all the differ- ent vegetables are added ; care must be taken to keep the jar well covered, either with a closely fitting lid, or a piece of oil-cloth or buttered paper so as perfectly to exclude the air. This is an Eng- lish recipe and a decided innovation in pickling. Variety Pickle. — One peck green tomatoes, two or three of cu- cumbers, and two quarts large onions ; pare, slice and salt in separate jars (using a rounded pint salt for all), let them stand in this twenty-four hours, and drain well, wringing and press in a cloth; PICKLES. 657 sprinkle fresh green radish pods and nasturtium seeds with salt, and let stand for same length of time ; boil in water, salted to taste, two quarts half-grown, very tender bean pods, until they can be pierced wdth a silver fork, take out and drain. Now place all in six separate jars, cover with cold, weak vinegar for twenty-f our hours, drain well, pressing hard to get out all the juice ; cook tomatoes as in Chopped Pickles, and then mix all well together. In a stone jar place first a laj'er of mixture, sprinkle with mustard seed (prepared as directed in recipe for Chopped Pickles), grated horse-radish, cin- namon bark, rings of garden peppers, and a few cloves, then another layer of the mixture, then the spice with a light sprinkling of cay- enne pepper. The spices used for this amount are nine tablespoons stick cinnamon, five teaspoons each mustard seed, cloves and horse- radish, and twenty-seven rings of garden peppers. Cover with good cider vinegar, let stand overnight, drain off vinegar and boil in a porcelain kettle, adding brown sugar in proportion of one pint to gallon vinegar ; skim well, pour hot over pickles, continue to drain off and reheat for several days. If not sweet enough, add more sugar, although these are not intended for sweet pickles. Some think it much nicer, after draining off and reheating vinegar two or three times, to put in the pickles and let come to a boil, then put aAvay as directed in preface. West India Pickle. — Take one white crisp cabbage, two heads cauliflower, three heads celery, one quart each small green plums, peaches, grapes, radish pods, nasturtium seeds artichokes, tomatoes and string beans, the green rind of a water-melon after paring, one quart small onions parboiled in milk, one hundred small cucumbers aliout an inch long, a few green peppers, and three limes or green lemons ; cut fine the cabbage, cauliflower, celery, pepper, limes, and green ginger ; mix Avell Avith the rest, then pour a strong hot l)rine over, and let stand three hours ; take out and drain overnight. ]\Iix one ounce turmeric powder, with a little cold vinegar, add one bottle French mustard, ground cinnamon, allspice, two nutmegs, black pepper, four pounds white sugar and one gallon vinegar, and pour boiling hot over the pickle; if not sufhcient liquid to moisten nicely, add more vinegar. Choicchoiv. — Let two hundred small cucumbers stand in salt and Avater closely covered three days. Boil fifteem ninutes in half gal- lon best cider vinegar, one ounce white mustard seed, black mustard seed, juniper berries and celery seed (tjnng each ounce separately in Swiss bags), handful small green peppers, two pounds sugar, few small onions, and piece of alum half size of a nutmeg ; pour vinegar while hot over cucumbers, let stand a day, pouring off and reheat- ing the vinegar and repeat the operation three or four mornings. Mix one-fourth pound mustard Vv^ith vinegar before pouring over the last time and seal up in bottles. For Goi)he7' Chowchow take 658 PICKLES. fifty medium-sized cucumbers, pared and sliced for table, two quarts each small, green tomatoes, cut in pieces, small white onions, whole, and nasturtiums (if liked), three large cauliflowers, tablespoon bird pepper, pint shredded horse-radish, three ounces whole black pep- per. Cut the cauliflower in pieces suitable for pickling, boil in salted water till easily pierced with a broom splint ; l)oil the onion and tomatoes separately in weak vinegar till tender ; mix one pint ground mustard, six tablespoons flour, three of turmeric, three of brown sugar, wet with a little vinegar and stir till smooth, after which add vinegar till a gallon has been used. Let this boil till the flour thickens, then add all ingredients and when thoroughly heated through, can while hot. Stir constantly while heating, as it burns easily . If not liked so strong, use only three-fourths or half pint mustard and only one tablespoon turmeric. Some take equal parts cucumbers, cauliflower and onions, omiting the tomatoes, and cup sugar to gallon vinegar. If cauliflower cannot be obtained the hearts of cabbage may be used with some chopped cabbage in the dressing. If dressing is left it will be found excellent for salad, sandwiches, cold meats and baked beans. Or soak in weak brine overnight three quarts small cucumbers, six cauliflowers, three quarts small white onions, one quart nasturtiums, six heads sliced celery. Any small pickles may be added, or small green tomatoes halved or quartered, red or green peppers, string beans, radish pods, etc. Steam the beans, tomatoes and onions. Put in preserving kettle two gallons vinegar, two cups fine mustard, two tablespoons each sweet oil, salt, and turmeric powder with two cups sugar anint suirar to three i)ints vinegar and pour boiling hot over them. They will be ready for use in a week, and are very fine. Pepper Mangoes. — Procure fifty "bull nose" or large sweet pep- pers and lay in strong salt water two weeks ; then simmer half an hour in weak vinegar, protecting with cabbage or grajjc leaves, though the use of leaves is not necessarv to success. Cut off' top of ])cpiHT or small piece from side, and remove seeds. Then fill ])ei)- j.cr with nice firm ca])bage, cho]iped as for slaw; to one largo head l;;k(; half pint grated horse-radish, pint mixed white and black nnis- tanl seed, half pint best olive oil and three cloves of garlic, if PICKLES. 661 liked. Put the top or piece cut off, in place, tie it on with nice clean twine, and put the mangoes in ajar. Add, to enough vinegar to cover them, two pounds brown sugar, cloves, mace, and allspice to taste, boil and pour hot over the mangoes. If liked, have three quarts small onions, prepared by scalding, peeling and soaking three days in brine; drain, add to mango jar, cover, and when cold tie down with oil-cloth as directed in preface. Or, With Tongue, cut a slit in the side of each pepper and take out all seeds ; soak them two days in brine, strong enough to float an egg, wash with cold water, put in a jar and cover with vinegar boiled with cinnamon, mace and nutmeg to taste. To serve, stuff each with cold boiled tongue, cut into dice, and mixed with mayonaise dressing. Or make little mangoes of small peppers, stuffing each with pickled nasturtiums, grapes, minced onions, red cabbage or cucumbers, sea- soned with mustard seed, root ginger, and mace. Tomato Mangoes. — Cut off top and thoroughly scrape out in- inside of green tomatoes, leaving the shell ; make a strong brine to cover them and let stand one day ; take out and wash well in cold water ; chop fine one cabbage and very fine, a dozen onions ; add grated horse-radish, salt, pepper, and white mustard seed ; mix all well together, and fill tomatoes nice and even ; place on top and tie as in Pepper Mangoes ; place in jar, and cover with cold vinegar. Picnic Relish. — Take large cucumbers that have begun to turn white before ripening ; pare, split, scrape out seeds, grate and put in sieve or colander to drain. To one quart pulp add teaspoon salt, half teaspoon cayenne pepper, two tablespoons grated horse- radish, one of grated onion, and as much cold vinegar as juice drained off; throw juice away. Can without heating. Will retain flavor nicely. The onion may be omitted. Or grate and drain four dozen cucumbers, add fourteen onions and six or seven green pep- pers, chopped very fine ; six teaspoons pepper, four of salt and one quart vinegar. Can as above. Picallilli. — Chop fine one large white cabbage, fifty small cu- cumbers, five quarts small string beans, eight small carrots, one dozen stalks celery, five red and three green jDcppers, and two heads cauliflower ; soak overnight in salt and water, Avash well, drain thor- oughly, and pour hot vinegar over, spiced with mace, cinnamon and allspice ; turn off vinegar and pour hot over mixture again ; repeat this five times , or cook mixture and can. Or, take half bushel green tomatoes, an equal quantity of cabbage, and one dozen each onions and green peppers, or cayenne if green peppers cannot be had ; chop all fine, mix, sprinkle one pint salt over and through them, and let stand overnight. In the morning drain off brine, cover with good vinegar and boil slowly one hour. Then drain and put in a jar. Take two pounds brown sugar, two tablespoons each celery seed 662 PICKLES. and cinnamon, one each allspice and cloves, two grated nutmegsi one half cup ground pepper and one pint horse-radish with vinegar to mix. Boil all together and pour over contents of jar. ' Cover tight or bottle and seal Avhile hot. Or the ingredients, proportions or spices may be varied to suit the taste. An excellent pickle is made by chopping together gherkins, small onions, red peppers, nasturtiums, cauliflower, and the small heart of a cabbage — four quarts in all ; jnit in brine for thirty-six hours, then dram well and put in jars. Rub two ounces each curry and dry mustard with half pint salad or sweet oil, add an ounce and a half ginger, an ounce turmeric, half pound sugar, and boil with two quarts vinegar until thickened ; then pour over the pickles and cover. Olives. — Serve in pickle dishes with broken ice strewn upon them. When the flavor of olives is not at first appreciated, it is best to soak overnight in fresh w'ater, and then place in vinegar. A capital pickle is thus made, and those eating them this way soon learn to like them without this preparation. Stuffed Olives make a delicious dish. Olives are also used in sauces for entrees, and for garnishing salads, meats, etc. Sweet IPickles. Sweet pickles may be made of any fruit that can be preserved, including rinds of ripe melons and cucumbers. The fruit nmst be ripe, but not soft ; peaches, plums, and cherries should be pickled whole ; pears also may be whole, or nicely halved, cored, and pared ; (|uinces, after being parboiled, must be pared, quartered, and cored ; if large, cut in eighths. Plums and other smooth-skinned fruits should be well pricked before cooking. The usual proportion of sugar to vinegar for syrup is three pints to a quart, making what is called a Single Sijrup. A richer proportion known as Donhle Sf/rup is four pints sugar to a pint vinegar. When making it, this will seem too rich, but the pickles canned witli it will be perfectly delicious, and can scarcely be told from brandied fruit. Sweet pickles may be made of any preserve by boiling over the sj^rup, add- ing spices and vinegar and pouring hot over the fruit. Examine frequently and re-scald the syrup if there are signs of fermentation. The principal spices used are stick cinnamon and whole cloves ; and either granulated, "coffee C," or good stirred maple sugar. All that is necessary to keep sweet pickles when not canned, but kept in stone jars is to have syrup enough to cover, and keep the fruit SWEET PICKLES. 663 well under. Drain each morning, boil the syrup and pour hot over the fruit until the latter is of same color throughout, and syrup like molasses ; one can hasten the process, by cooking the syrup quite awhile each morning, instead of simply bringing to a boil. Watch every week, particularly if weather is warm, and if scum rises and syrup assumes a whitish appearance, boil, skim, and jiour over the fruit. If at any time syrup is lacking, prepare more as at first. Put spices in jar when pickles are almost done, as directed in Peach Pickles; and when putting in hot fruit or syrup, set jar near stove, put in only a little fruit at a time, and when all is in, pour syrup over slowly. This care will prevent a cracked jar. Canning is much the nicest way of putting up sweet pickles, and some can Chowchow and other sour pickles.. Make the syrup in proportions given in the recipe used, putting in the spices loose, or tied loosely in piece of cheese-cloth ; or cloves, two or three may be stuck in the fruit, if latter is whole, as peaches, pears, etc., and the cinnamon cooked in the syrup. Cook the fruit in the syrup until tender, and prepare cans and fruit as directed in Canning Fruit. When pickling the light-fleshed fruits, only a small quantity should be pared at a time, as they darken very quickly, and two kettles should be used, one for cooking the fruit and the other for making extra syrup to be added Avhen needed. When canning either pickles or fruit, after filling cans take out a sufficient quantity of the hot syrup to fill up the cans as directed, after the fruit has set- tled ; and keep it liot for this purpose by setting in a pan of boiling water until wanted. This enables one to work more expeditiously, for fresh fruit can then be placed in kettle, adding syrup from that made ready in second kettle ; or making more syrup in same kettle, then adding fruit and letting it cook while finishing cans first filled. A dozen whole pears or twenty whole peaches will fill a quart can. Some sprinkle the sugar over fruit, let stand overnight, then boil juice with the vinegar and spices fifteen minutes ; put in fruit, boil ten minutes, and can as directed ; or put in stone jar, reheating syrup as above, allowing to every seven pounds fruit, three pounds sugar and pint cider vinegar, two ounces each whole cloves and stick cinnamon. Always use a silver fork to test pickles, and keep the latter in a cool, dry place; if canned, place in Fruit Closet, page 147. In ventilating this closet it is well to place the opening or holes, in one side as well as door, or if closet is not placed in corner 664 SWEET PICKLES. of room, put them in the two sides opposite each other. While en- dorsing strongly the cider vinegar, the Economical Vinegar, recipe for which is given in Kitchen,is equally good and has been thorough- ly tested. When wishing to renew sweet pickles, drain, add to, and heat with the old syrup, more vinegar and sugar, in proportions first used. One must not use all fresh vinegar, nor throAv away the old syrup as is the case in sour pickles (see Cucumbers Pickles), nor is there the same need to do so, for sw-eet pickles are more like pre- serves, the syrup being really used as a part of the pickles as well as acting as a preservative. Pickled Apples. — For one peek sweet apples take three pounds sugar, two quarts vinegar, half ounce each cinnamon and cloves; jiare apples, leaving them whole ; boil in part of vinegar and sugar until they can be pierced with fork ; take them out, heat remainder of vinegar and sugar and pour over them. Be careful not to boil tliem long or they will break. Or, take three pounds sugar, seven pounds apples, quartered and cored and one pmt vinegar. Steam apples till a fork will pierce them. Then make a syrup of sugar and vinegar and pour over them while hot. Stick a clove or two into each quarter. For Pickled Crab-Apples, steam as above, watch- ing closely, as they cook very quickly. When the skin is just ready to break, take out, and place in the hot Single or Double Syrup, al- ready prepared in kettle ; cook only a moment or two, and then can as directed. Some prick the apples just like plums. Pickled Barberries. — For each quart fruit allow a pint each vinegar and sugar, boil together and pour over berries in jar. Pickled Beets. — Boil them in a porcelain kettle till they can be pierced with a silver fork ; when cool cut lengthwise to size of medium cucumber; boil equal parts vinegar and sugar with a half tablespoon ground cloves tied in a cloth to each gallon ; pour boil- ing hot over the beets. Pickled Blackberries. — Three quarts blackberries, one quart vinegar, one quart sugar; put all together and boil ten or fifteen minutes. Put up and seal in glass cans. Cinnamon or any spices to taste may be added, but very nice without. Picklrd Grapes.— Y\\\ a jar with alternate layers of sugar and l)unelu'S of nice grapes, just ripe and freshly gathered ; fill one-third full of good cold vinegar and cover tightly. Or clip the grapes from main stem with scissors and pack snugly in stone jar; make a Single Syrup and add tablespoon whole cloves and two of cinna- mon l)ark, and pour over grapes in jar ; set away three or four days : then drain off vinegar, boil and pour over again; repeat for a third SWEET PICKLES. 665 time, and any time afterwards should the grapes be inclined to sour. The}^ may be pickled in bunches if preferred, taking care to remove all imperfect fruit. Pears, Peaches and Figs are nice pickled same. Or for five pounds grapes, take two pounds sugar, a quart vinegar and one tablespoon whole mixed spices — cloves, allspice and mace. Boil vinegar and sugar together gently ten minutes ; put in grapes, and let simmer half an hour. Pour all in colander set in pan, drain a few moments and put grapes in jar, and syrup back on fire, with the spices tied in a piece of muslin ; boil ten min- utes and pour over grapes in jar. After standing a day or two drain syrup off, boil and pour back hot. When cool, tie down and keep in cold place. The solid white California grapes can be pickled any time, but juicier varieties must be put up before too ripe. Pickled Huckleberries. — Take seven pounds berries, three and half pounds brown sugar, cinnamon, mace, and cloves to taste ; boil all together, then add one pint strong vinegar, boil up and can while hot. Blue-herries prepared in same way, or as Peach Pickles. Pickled Raisins. — Leave two pound raisins on stem, add one pint vinegar and half pound sugar ; simmer half an hour, then can. Ri2^e Ciicuiiiber Pickles. — Cut large, ripe, solid cucumbers in rings, pare, divide into smaller pieces and remove seeds , cook pieces very slightly in Aveak vinegar, with salt enough to season well, drain, and put in stone jar in layers with a few slices of onions, some cay- enne pepper, whole allspice, whole cloves, bits of cinnamon bark, and celery seed (according to taste) between each layer of cucum- ber. Then cover with syrup made of one pound sugar to one quart cider vinegar, boiled for about five minutes. Put in stone jars and cover closely or can as directed. Sprinkling the onion slices with a little salt and sugar, covering with vinegar and letting stand two or three hours greatly improves the pickles, which are made very nice as follows : After cooking in the Aveak vinegar, make the syrup and pour it hot over them, repeat this four or five mornings, cooking both syrup and cucumbers the last time ; then place the latter in cans with alternate layers of onions and spices, covering with the syrup and canning as above. Some first soak cucumber pieces overnight in weak vinegar and water, then parboil in same. Peach Pickles. — Pare freestone peaches, place in stone jar, and pour over them boiling-hot syrup made in proportion of one quart best cider vinegar to three pints "Coffee C" sugar ; boil and skim and pour over the fruit boiling hot, repeating each day for five days until the fruit is the same color to the center, and the syrup Tike molasses. Place the fruit, after draining on fifth day, in the jar to the depth of three or four inches, then sprinkle over bits of cinna- mon bark and a few cloves, and another layer of fruit, then spice, 666 SWEET PICKLES. and so on until the jar is full ; scald the syrup each morning for four more days and pour boiling hot over fruit ; if it is not sufficiently cooked, scald fruit with the syrup the last time. The proportion of spices to a gallon of fruit is, two teaspoons whole cloves and four tablespoons stick cinnamon. For GUng stone Pickles^ prepare S3'rup as for freestones ; pare fruit, put in the syrup, boil until they can be pierced through with a silver fbrk ; skim out, place in jar, pour the boiling syrup over them, and proceed and finish as above. As clings are apt to become hard when stewed in sweet syrup, it may often be necessary to use a pint of water the first time the}'' are cooked, watching carefully until they are tender, or to use only part of the sugar at first, adding the rest in a day or two. Use the large White Heath clingstones, ^^'atch pickles as directed in preface. Pear Pichles. — Prepare synip as for peaches, pare and cut fruit in halves, or quarters if very large, and if small leave whole, put syrup in porcelain kettle, and Avhen it boils put in fruit, cook until a silver fork will easily pierce them ; skim out fruit first and place in jar, and then pour over syrup boiling hot ; S])ice like Peach Pickles, draining them each day, boiling and skimming syrup, and pouring it boiling hot over fruit until fully done. By cooking pears at first the syrup does not need to be boiled so many times and the fruit does not need to be again cooked m syrup, but they must be watched carefully until finished, and if perfectly done, will keep two or more years. Apple Pickles may be made in the same way, taking care to select such as will not lose shape in boiling. Or, for Gopher Pear Vickies, make a syrup of one pint vinegar and four pints sugar ; cook five or ten minutes, skimming if necessary ; add ten or twelve Bartlett pears, according to size, and three or four pieces cinnamon and a dozen cloves tied loosely in a square of cheese- cloth. Cook fruit as above; then place in a glass quart can, pre- pared as in Canning Fruit ; fill with syrup, seal and finish as di- rected. Add more fruit to kettle, and as needed, more syrup pre- pared as above. It is better to can only one or two quarts at a time, as fruit darkens so easily. The putting of enough hot syrup in a bowl, as directed in preface, with which to fill up cans, expe- dites matters greatly. Peaches and any fruit except water-melon may be pickled thus and Avill greatly resemble brandied fruit. Strawberry Pickles. — Ten pounds strawberries, five and a half pounds brown sugar, one quart cider vinegar, half ounce cloves, and one stick of cinnamon. Place the strawberries and spices in alternate layers in deep dish. Boil sugar and vinegar three minutes, and ])our it over them, letting them remain until next day. The second day pour liquor off and boil again three minutes, returning as before to the berries. Let them remain until the third day, when boil all together over a slow fire for half an hour. Can as directed in Can- ing Fruits. Pine- Apple Pickles can be made same way. SWEET PICKLES. 667 Chopped Tomato Pickles. — Take eight pounds green tomatoes and chop fine, add four pounds brown sugar and boil three hours ; add a quart vinegar, teaspoon each mace, cinnamon and cloves, and boil about fifteen minutes ; let cool and put into jars or other ves- sels. Try this recipe once and it will be tried again. For Sliced Tomato Pickles, wash and cut off" ends of peck green tomatoes, slice, sprinkle with salt as in Chopped Pickles and let stand over- night ; drain, and cover with cold weak vinegar for twenty-four hours, then pour all in kettle, boil ten minutes and drain. Make a Single Syrup, as directed, when hot add tomatoes, boil three min- utes and pack in jar in layers with spices, as in Peach Pickles. Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Pare and weigh ripe tomatoes, put into jars and just cover Avith vinegar ; after standing three days pour oft' vinegar and add five pounds cofiee sugar to every seven of fruit ; spice to taste, using cinnamon, mace and a little cloves, if preferred ; when hot, add tomatoes and cook slowly all day on back of stove. Water-7nelo7i Pickles. — Pare off verj'- carefully the green part of the rind of a good, firm, ripe water-melon, trim off" red core, cut in pieces one or two inches in length, or in fancy shape of about same size, place in porcelain-lined kettle, in proportion of one gallon rinds to two heaping teaspoons common salt, and water to nearly cover, boil until tender enough to pierce with silver fork, pour in colander to drain, and dry by taking a few pieces at a time in the hand, and pressing gently with a crash towel. Make syrup, and treat rinds ex- actly as directed for Peach Pickles. Continue adding rinds, as melons are used at table, preparing them first by cooking in salt water as above, and putting them in jar each morning before heat- ing and returning the syrup. Those added must be put in bottom of jar and some hot syrup poured immediately over them; then put back those first pickled and pour remainder of hot syrup over all ; when as many are prepared as are wanted, and they are nearly pickled, drain, spice, and finish as directed in Peach Pickles, except when the syrup is boiled the last time, put in melons and boil fif- teen minutes. A rind nearl}^ an inch thick, crisp and tender, is best. Spiced Blackberries. — Take five pounds berries, two of sugar, pint vinegar, two tablespoons each cinnamon, cloves, and allspice ; heat all well together, skim out fruit and boil syrup one hour ; re- turn fruit and boil fifteen minutes ; put in jars and cover tight. Spiced Currants may be prepared same,adding another pound sugar. Sjjiced Chei'ines. — Boil a quart vinegar with three and a half pounds sugar, and teaspoon each cinnamon and cloves, and pour over three and a half quarts nice, firm cherries. Next day drain off vinegar, boil five minutes, return to cherries and repeat three days. Spiced Currants. — Put an ounce cinnamon, half ounce cloves and tablespoon each ground mace and allspice in a bag and boil 668 SWEET PICKLES. with four pounds currants and two of sugar to a thick syrup. When nearly done add a pint vinegar and put away in jelly tumblers or glass cans. Some add three pounds raisins, and one pint more vin- egar. Or for Currant Pickles omit the spices. Spiced Elderherries. — Take four pounds sugar, one pint vine- gar, six pounds berries ; boil one tablespoon ground cinnamon, tea- spoon each ground cloves and allspice, in the vinegar ; strain, add sugar, boil up, then add berries and boil two hours. Spiced Gooseberries. — Leave stems and blossoms on ripe goose- berries and wash clean ; make a syrup of three pints sugar to one of vinegar, skim, if necessary, add berries and boil till thick, adding more sugar if needed ; when almost done, spice with cinnamon and cloves to taste and boil as thick as apple butter. Spiced Grapes. — Six pounds grapes, three of sugar, two tea- spoons each cinnamon and allspice, half teaspoon cloves ; pulp grapes, boil skins until tender, cook pulps and strain through a sieve, add to skins, put in sugar and spices with vinegar to taste ; boil thor- oughly, put in glasses and when cool cover tightly. Spiced Nutmeg Melon. — Select melons not quite ripe ; open, scrape out. the pulp, peel, and slice; put in a stone jar, and for five pounds fruit scald a quart vinegar, and two and a half pounds su- gar together, and pour over the fruit; pour off and scald the syrup and pour over the fruit each day for eight successive days. On the ninth, add one ounce each stick cinnamon, whole cloves and all- spice. Scald fruit, vinegar and spices together, and seal up in jars. This pickle should stand two or three months before using, nlue Plums are delicious prepared in this way.' Spiced Peaches. — Boil three pounds sugar and a pint and a half vinegar with ounce whole cloves and two of stick cinnamon ; two or three of the former, with their heads off, may be stuck in each peach ; then put in seven pounds peeled peaches and let them heat through thoroughly. Skim out fruit and put in stone jars, boil syrup until thick and pour over peaches. Pears, Plums, and Clicrries may be prepared same way. Spiced Plums. — Boil two quarts vinegar with six pounds sugar and an ounce cinnamon, Avith half ounce whole cloves, if liked, and pour over nine pounds l)lue plums ; next morning drain off vinegar, boil and pdur back on plums; re})eat this five mornings, boiling the fruit in the vinegar the last morning about twenty minutes. Spiced Tomatoes. — Peel and slice seven pounds ripe tomatoes, put in preserving kettle, with half their weight in sugar, a pint vin- egar, and tablespoon each whole cloves, allspice, pepper-corns, salt. SWEET PICKLES. 669 and teaspoon mace ; boil slowly two hours, stirring often enough to prevent burning ; then cool in kettle, and put in self-sealing cans. Cayenne Vinegar. — Put a pint vinegar in bottle Avith a half ounce cayenne pepper and let stand a month ; then strain and bot- tle for use. An excellent seasoning for soups and sauces, but must be used sparingly. Celery Vinegar. — Crush one-fourth ounce celery seed by pound- ing in a mortar ; boil a pint vinegar, and when cold, pour on the seed ; let stand two weeks, then strain and bottle for use. A good substitute for celery in salads, etc. If wanted strong use double .the quantity of seed. Chilli Vinegar. — Put fifty chopped or bruised chillies, cayenne pepper pods, into a pint best vinegar, let stand a month, then strain and bottle. This makes a much stronger vinegar than the cayenne. Cider Vinegar. — To make a small quantity put a pound white sugar in a gallon cider, shake well together and leave to ferment four months, when a strong well-flavored vinegar will result. For directions for making vinegar in large quantities, see Kitchen. Clover Vinegar. — Put a quart molasses in a crock, and pour over it nine quarts boiling rain water ; let stand until milk-warm, put in two quarts clover blossoms, and two cups baker's yeast; let stand two weeks, and strain through a towel. Nothing will mold in it. Cticumher Vinegar. — Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, and four large onions and put in stone jar Avitli two or three shal- lots, a little garlic, two tablespoons salt, three teaspoons pepper, and half teaspoon cayenne. Leave for four days then boil up and when cold, strain till clear and bottle for use. Elder-floioer Vinegar. — Gather the buds of elder-flowers, and to every half peck add one gallon vinegar, leaving it a fortnight in jug to ferment. Then strain through a flannel bag, put into it a small bit of dissolved gellatine, and bottle. The flavor of the herbs may also be extracted by boiling the herbs or leaves in vinegar, without fermentation ; a mixture of tarragon leaves and elder-flow- ers is very agreeable. Ilorse-radish Vinegar. — Take six tablespoons grated horse- radish, one of white sugar, and a quart vinegar ; scald the vinegar and pour boiling hot over the horse-radish and sugar. Let stand a week, strain and bottle. Or, take three ounces grated horse-radish, a drachm cayenne pepper, an ounce of shallots, chopped or minced very fine, and pour over them a quart good vinegar ; let stand a fortnight, strain and bottle. Garlic Vinegar. — Pour a quart best vinegar over two ounces peeled and bruised garlic. Bottle and cork tightly and in two or 670 SWEET PICKLES. three weeks it may be strained off for use. A lew drops will flavor a sauce or tureen of gravy. More or less garlic may be used as liked. Shallot Vinegar made same way. Mint Vinegar. — Put into a wide-mouthed bottle enough fresh, clean peppermint, spearmint, or garden parsley leaves to fill it loosely ; fill up with good vinegar, cork closely, leave two or three weeks, pour off into another bottle, and keep well corked for use. This is excellent for cold meats, soups and bread-dressings for roasts. Nasturtium Vinegar. — Pick full-blown nasturtium flowers and fill a wide-mouthed bottle, add a half clove of garlic and a moder- ate sized shallot chopped, fill up with vinegar ; let stand two- months ; then strain and add a little cayenne pepper and salt. Oyster Vinegar. — Boil oysters in strong vinegar, until the vin- egar is highly flavored ; add clove, mace, and pepper, to suit the taste, strain and bottle. Peach Vinegar. — Crack one pint peach stones and blanch the kernels by throwing them into boiling water, then in cold ; pull off skin and cover with best cold vinegar, and cork tightly^ Red Vinegar. — Slice a head of garlic and put in bottle with half ounce cayenne, two teaspoons each soy and walnut catsup, a pint vinegar and cochineal to color. Let stand a month, then strain and keep in small bottles. Spiced Vinegar. — Put three pounds sugar in three-gallon jar with small mouth ; mix two ounces each mace, cloves, pepper, all- spice, turmeric, celery seed, white ginger in small bits, and ground mustard ; put in six small bags made of thin but strong muslin, lay inajar^fill with best cider vinegar, and use it in making pickles and sauces. Or if Avanted to use at once, for every quart vinegar take two rounded teaspoons each cinnamon and cloves, one each of celery salt or seed, saltspoon black pepper and pinch of cayenne. Tarragon Vinegar. — Gather tarragon leaves Just before the plant blossoms, strip' from the larger stalks and put mto small stone jars or wide-necked bottle; in doing this twist the branches, bruis- ing the leaves. Pour over vinegar enough to cover, allowing six or eight hnndfuls to a gallon vinegar; let stand two months or longer, pour off, strain, and put into small dry bottles, cork well and use as sauce for meats. This is very nice to use in Salad Dressings. Walnut Vinegar. — Put green walnut shells in brine of salt and water, strong enough to float an egg, and leave covered ten days ; takeout and lay in sun a week, then put in jar and pour boiling vinegar over ; in a week or ten day? drain off and reheat the vinegar, pouring it over the shells again. Will be ready for use in a month. Excellent with cold meat and nice for making sauces. POTATOES. 671 POTATOES. As there is not any other vegetable so much used as the potato, especially in winter and early spring, the housekeeper should have a variety of recipes from which to select the daily bill of fare ; and should also be wise in the art of cooking "only a potato ;" this little saying conveying the abuse to which this vegetable is subjected. Potatoes are composed largely of starch, and cooking bursts the cells and sets the starch free, and at this stage a boiled or baked potato should be served, as it will then be dry and mealy ; but if allowed to cook longer, the starch absorbs the moisture and a soggy, flavorless potato results ; another secret of having potatoes mealy and palatable is to cook them rapidly, and it is important to begin to cook them at the right time and have them as near the same size as possible in order to serve when just done. In latter part of winter potatoes are so watery that it is much better to steam them, and always, when to be mashed or used for made-dishes, peeling and steaming is preferable, using great care in the paring, as the hest part oi i\\e potato lies next to the skin and for this reason in boiling potatoes, it is better to wash with a little brush, or a swab made by wrapping a cloth around a stick, as great care must be taken to have them perfectly clean, then cook, peel and serve ; or serve in their jackets, which is preferred by many. The only ex- ception to thus cooking, is in the late spring, for the skin of an old potato contains a narcotic property which gives a disagreeable flavor if not peeled before cooking. But however cooked, potatoes must be served hot. When intended to be mashed or used in made- dishes, if boiled, pare and cook without salt as it greatly impairs their flavor; the seasoning being added afterwards. Always pare 672 POTATOES. potatoes left from a meal at OJice, as tliey pare !;0 much easier when warm, causing no waste ; except baked ones, which do not pare till cold ; but do not slice for use until wanted. One must exercise care in not cooking too many potatoes e^e^'y day, thus requiring the same time in preparing the residue in some edible form, as would be consumed in preparing some more desirable dish from fresh ones, the cost also of preparing them being more than of tlie latter, owing to the additions required to make them palatable. When recipes call for cream, milk slightly thickened, and a little butter can be used ; and in cooking with either, a custard kettle avoids all danger of scorching. Old potatoes, may be greatly improved by being soaked in cold water several hours after peeling, putting in immediately as exposure to air darkens, being particular to change the water once or twice, and Avipe dry Avith a tow:l bifore putting on to boil. This freshens them and makes them crimper, although some claim they really become more tasteless. New ripe potatoes are best baked; full grown, ripe ones may be either boiled or baked; medium-sized smooth ones are best to use, the kind varying with the season. VvHien cooking in water, use soft water, filtered, or if hard add small pinch soda and have it either cold or boiling, never tepid; for fuller directions see Boiled Potatoes. Although some prefer a "bone" in potatoes, to be wholesome they should be thorough- ly cooked whether baked, boiled, fried or steamed. Never waste cold cooked potatoes, as in winter they can be kept till sufficient for a dish of themselves, or at any time maybe made in croquettes, hash, etc., with meat or other vegetables, or sliced and added to a soup or stew. Potatoes being of a farinaceous nature absorb fat, and so prove to be a good ingredient in Moat Pies. Potato Flour is dry starch powder, procured from the potato and is much used in French cookery ; it can be bought in this country, and in fact is often sold for arrowroot, to which it is inferior. ^lore so than any other vege- tal)le do potatoes differ in quality, according to variety and manner of culture. However the main crop may be raised, every farmer's wife should secure for late spring use a supply of a choice variety cultivated eiilircly in rotten-Avood soil or in soil Avhere Avood ashes and L'vpsum are used as fertilizers. As potatoes enter so largely into the daily breakfast, dinner and supper of Americans, care should be oxenased in their seasoning; not using too much jieppcr and salt. There are many who do not use either, but each must be a law unto POTATOES. 673 himself, only we would advise white pepper, if pepper must be used, as it is more mild and looks better. The first new potatoes received in the markets in the spring are the Bermudas, arriving in April. About the first of June come the Charlestons ; about the 20th,the Nor- folks, and late in June those fwm New Jersey and Long Island. The old potatoes are at this time scarce, poor, and not much used. Always drop potatoes in cold water when paring as they darken quickly. The sweet potato is of quite a different species from the com- mon and is a lighter food, but is sweet, wholesome and more nu- tritious. Two varieties are mostly used, the red or purple, and the white or yellow and are in season from August till December ; after which they begin to loose their flavor, and in the spring become spongy, and almost uneatable. Freezing does not injure them for though frozen hard as stones, their flavor and firmness are pre- served, if baked at once without being thawed. Clean them with a ))rush or dry towel, put them in the heated oven and bake. If thawed, even in cold water, they are soft and worthless. This is also true of Irish potatoes. Baked Potatoes. — Select the largest and as near the same size as possible. Wash, brush and place in oven so that they do not touch each other, turn as needed and do not let them scorch ; bake till tender in a hot oven, testing by taking up between a cloth, and if they yield to pressure, they are done. Press each one thus as it makes them mealier, and serve at once covered with a napkin, for baked potatoes to be in their prime must be served when done, al- though if they must be kept, roll in a clean cloth and put in a warm place. A large potato will bake in an hour. For Quick- Baked Potatoes, prepare as above, cook in boiling water fifteen or twenty minutes, drain and place in a hot oven till skins are well browned — about eight or ten minutes, press and serve as above. Potatoes baked in ashes, known best as Boasted Potatoes are very delicious, and are considered the most wholesome and delicate way of pre- paring them. Scrape away ashes, put in potatoes, cover with pure ashes first, and then hot coals. Or, if With Meat, peel and place in pan, around the meat, not touching each other, generally about three quarters of an hour before meat is done. See that the pan contains plenty of drippings, baste the potatoes often and with proper heat they will be brown and crisp without, and white and mealy within. Some boil half done, peel, roll in flour, place in pan and finish as above. It is better to halve very old and large potatoes when baking witli meat, and some always 674 POTATOES. let them stand in cold water an hour or so before baking. Oi, With Sauce, peel and bake in a moderate oven till tender ; make the sauce by stirring into a pint boiling milk tablesiKJon tDrii- starch, beaten smooth in a little cold milk, cook five minutes ; take from fire and add a half cup sweet cream, piece of butter and tlie well-beaten whites of two eggs, a little pepper and salt. Serve on platter with potatoes in center, or separately in sauce-boat. For Larded Potatoes, peel, and with an apple corer take out a piece lengthwise through the center, insert bits of salt pork, ham or bacon and bake till tender, in a two-quart baking dish and serve in same. The cores can be used in souji or in mashed potatoes. Or for Glased Potatoes, wash medium-sized potatoes, peel out any de- fective places, put in drip})ing })an in a moderately hot oxen and ])ake till tender, brush with melted butter or Pastry Glaze, let re- main a moment to brown, then serve. Using the Glaze as given in Gravies makes them delicious. Boiled Pototoes With Jackets. — Wash, brush (keep a small flat brush just for this purpose), cut offends and any bad specks and if quite old, let stand in cold water an hour or two. Cook in soft fil- tered water if possible, but if hard water is used, put in a small pinch of soda. The water should be freshly drawn if used cold, and sliould only be put over fire in time to reach the boiling point be- fore the hour for putting in potatoes, as standing and long l)oiling frees the gases and renders tbe water insipid. As regards the tem- perature in which to cook them, have water either cold or hoiliit;/ never lukewarm and the kind of potato will govern that ; those potatoes that crack very soon in boiling water, ])resenting i\ mealy ajipear- ance on the outside while the heart is uncooked, should be put on in cold water, and for those that do not cook very quickly use hoiling. Do not drown them in water, using only enough to just cover and some use even less. Do not let the water stop boiling as they will then be watery, but it must not boil too hard as tliat breaks them. Some place na]ikin under the lid to keep in all the steam. As regards salting the water or potatoes, there is a great difference of opinion, but the best housekeepers do not use any salt till after potatoes are done, or some add it ten minutes l)efore. Test with a fork and when tender, not longer, diain oiY all the rcater; if left on after they are done they become watery and waxy, sprinkle with salt, shake saucepan lightly, leave uncovered a few minutes, that all steam may evaporate ; then ])laee on back of range or stove, leaving cover only partly on, or better, covering with a clean folded towel, as the moisture condenses on the inside of lio\\ fifteen min- utes, then add a quart of cold water ; when the edges of the peel curl up, salt and remove potatoes to baking pan ; place in oven with a towel over them, and let remain fifteen minutes with oven door open, then serve as above. But however boiled, if they cannot be served at once, wrap closely in a towel and put in a warm place and they will keep quite nicely. For Waterless Potatoes, select same size,nottoo old or sun-burnt, wash, brush, but do not pare or cut ; put in flat-bot- tomed saucepan, filling three-fourths full, cover tightly, this is very necessary, and place on stove with a moderately hot fire, or in oven. fShake saucepan occasionally but do not lift cover before forty min- utes. As soon as tender peel, or leave in jackets, and serve. They take longer time for cooking but are said to be of delicious flavor. Boiled Potatoes Without Jackets. — Pare and put in fresh boil- ing water. Keep closely covered and at a steady boil for at least twenty minutes, five or ten minutes more may be requisite, accord- ing to the quality of potato. Watch carefully, and the very instant they present a mealy and broken surface remove from stove, raise cover just enough to admit the draining off of water. This may be accomplished successfully and quickly, after a little practice, and is far better than turning them into a colander, thus suddenly chilling them and arresting further development of the starch, which, after 676 POTATOES. all, is the main point to he accomplished. Drain water off thor- oughly and quickly, sprinkle in sufficient salt for seasoning, partly cover saucepan, give it a shako and set on back of stove, being care- ful not to have it too hot. • In a minute or so give it another shake to stir up potatoes, throw in a little hot cream or rich milk with a lump of butter and a sprinkle of pepper, cover immediately and leave on stove for another minute. This last process adds greatly in making a mealy potato. They are ready now to be dished whole or mashed. It is always best to pare old potatoes. Or for Iloosier Potatoes^ pare small old potatoes, or cut large ones to size of new ; place in cold water, let boil ten minutes, drain, cover with cold water, boil and drain as before ; repeat this once more, then after draining, dress with milk, butter, pepper and salt as New Potatoes. Boiled New Potatoes. — Wash, scrape, or only rub with a cloth, boil ten minutes, turn off water, and add enough more boiling hot, to cover, also add a little salt; cook a few moments, test by press- ing one of the potatoes with a fork against the side of the saucepan, if done it Avill yield to a gentle pressure, drain, and set again on stove, add butter, salt, a pint cream or milk, thickened with two tablespoons flour, put on cover, and when milk has l)oiled, serve. Do not use too much water as they will boil more quickly, and are more savory if cooked in just enough water to keep from burning. Boiling water is generally considered best for new potatoes, always cooking in two waters as above ; some use a wire basket, placing it in a ^kettle of boiling water, then have ready another saucepan of boiling water, and when the potatoes are half cooked lift them from the first anrl put them in the second. (This is considered equally nice for old potatoes). Serve with a dressing of melted butter ; taking for each quart i)otatoes, two tablespoons butter, ten- spoon salt and saltspoon white pep])er ; and after placing potatoes in hot dish, pour it over them. Or make a dressing of cream and butter //o^, but not boiling, a little green parsley, pepper and salt ; place pota- toes in pan, add this, let stand a minute or two over hot water, and serve in a hot dish. If potatoes are too old to have skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets, paring ofifaring half inch wide around them; drain, peel, and serve as above. Or for Browned New Po- tatoes when co(jkcd and drained, put in a skillet with hot drippings, cover, and shake till a nice brown, and add, when ready to dish, a tablespoon l)aking molasses, dropping it on the potatoes and stirring constantly a moment or two, as it causes them to burn easily, then serving at once. The molasses browns them beautifully and makes them delicious. This is a nice way to brown any potatoes. Using Parsley Butter in the melted butter dressing, makes a savory dish. Breakfast Potatoes. — Peel, cut in very thin slices and place in a cerij little boiling water, so little that it will all be evaporated 11," l!:l-li.- POTATOES. 677 when they are cooked ; when done add salt to taste, some cream, or a very little milk and a bit of butter. Or cook in water as above, then prepare a dressing as follows : Put a tablespoon butter in a saucepan, with one of flour, flavor with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and onions ; mix well and add a cup of cream, stir till it boils ; put in potatoes, boil up once and serve hot. They must be stirred occasionally while cooking. Or omit all dressing, drain, place in a hot dish, add a little salt, a few bits of butter, and serve at once. The slices maybe steamed, it will take twice as long, but they are much better. Or for Marinated Potatoes^ cut in half inch slices and cook in highly seasoned and flavored soup or gravy stock; when just tender dip in beaten egg, or single-bread tliera if wished, and fry, drain and serve like Fritters. Squeezing over a little lemon juice is an addition. Broiled Potatoes. — Boil a quart of even-sized potatoes until tender, but do not let them grow mealy ; drain off" water, peel, cut in half inch slices, dip in melted butter, and broil on both sides over a moderate fire \ serve hot, seasoning with salt and pepper and bits of butter. Some dip in sifted bread-crumbs after dipping in butter. Or slice cold boiled potatoes lengthwise and broil as above, omitting the dipping if wished. The double broiler is nice for broiled potatoes when sliced. Or parboil, do not peel, but place them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire, when thoroughly done serve in their jackets. For Breaded Potatoes., slice as in first two recipes, single-bread (page 299) and fry in butter or drippings. Browned Potatoes. — Steam or boil small-sized potatoes, till tender, not mealy, peel and place in saucepan with melted butter, shake occasionally and when all are well browned serve upon thin slices of toast which have been dipped in Chilli Sauce that has been thinned with a little weak vinegar. Or the toast may be omitted. This is a nice way to use the small potatoes, and is especially nice for old ones. They may also be fried in smoking-hot fat as dough- nuts. Or single-bread them and fry in either of above ways. Creamed Potatoes. — Slice raw potatoes thin as for frying, let stand in salted water for an hour or so to crisp them ; drain, and place a layer in bottom of a buttered, earthen baking dish, dredge with flour and cover with bits of butter and a light seasoning of salt, then more potatoes, flour, butter and salt till all are used ; to a quart dish add about a half pint cream or rich milk and bake in oven till tender, about forty minutes. Or the sliced potatoes can all be put in dish at once, seasoned and the cream or milk poured over, adding bits of butter ; or some prefer to cook first, then place butter as above, over the top, returning to oven a moment and serv- ing when nicely browned. The exact quantity of liquid can be learned by experience ; there mugt be just a, little rich gravy leftj (578 POTATOES. nioistciiing all the slices. This is an especially nice Avay to cook old or small potatoes. For Fricasseed Potatoes slice cold boiled i)ota- locs, put into a dripping-pan, add milk, salt, pepper and small j)iece of butter, allowing half pint milk to a dozen potatoes ; place in oven for about fifteen minutes, stir occasionally with a knife to keep from 1 turning, and brown slightly on top. Curried Potatoeh. — Slice either raw or cold boiled potatoes, fry, then add a gravy made of soup stock, seasoned with curry-pow- der, and boil a few moments. Or boil or steam potatoes, mash and add a little cream or milk, seasoned as above ; serve, first ornament- ing the top of dish with little slips of cold boiled ham. Diced Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled or steamed jtotatoes cross- wise in inch slices ; then cut in dice. Season with salt and pepper, dij) in melted butter, then dust lightly Avith flour. Arrange on liaking pans, bake in a t[uick oven and serve hot. Or make half- inch slices, cut in dice and fry in a little butter, cream and flour seasoned with pepper and salt, till hot and nicely coated with the sauce. Or, In a Cake, chop in small, even dice ; season palatal)ly with salt and pepper, moisten slightly with cream, cold gravy, or white sauce, and form in a large cake, which must be pressed to- gether so that it can be browned uniformly on the side next the ])an ; heat a frying-pan, put into it enough sweet drippings or but- ter to cover bottom, when fat is hot put in the potatoes, press them well together, and brown the under side ; when the potatoes are Inown, turn them out of the pan on a hot dish, without breaking them, and serv(! them hot. This requires a very moderate fire as they are apt to burn. Fried Potatoes. — To be successful in thus cooking potatoes, the frying-pan should be Avell heated before butter, lard or dri])- pings is ])Ut in, and then made quite hot over not too brisk a fire ; U)V Fried Pain Potatoes^ wash, peel, and slice rather thin in cold w;iter, drain in a colander, some also wipe dry with a towel, and diop in frying-pan prepared with two tal)lespoons melted butter or beef drippings, or one-half of each ; keep closely covered for ten minutes, only removing to stir with a knife from the bottom to ]u-event burning; cook another ten minutes stirring fre(]Uont- Iv until done and lightly browned. Serve at once, sprinkled witli salt, as nothing spoils more quickly by standing than fried potatoes. For French Fried Potatoes, prepare as above, slicing its thin as an egg-shell, always cutting crosswise ; when Imtter is very hot in frying-pan, add potatoes and fry as above, shaking ilie'm so as to cook them equally; drain on a sheet of kitchen iia])er ]thiced in drijiping pan in oven, a few minutes, sprinkle with salt and serve hot. Or, cut in fancy shai)es Avith a vegetable cutter and frv in smoking-hot fat. To make them swell ; when fried take POTATOES. 679 from the fat, put in colander, leave there only half a minute, then drop again in fat, fry one minute, drain, salt and serve hot. For Potatoes a la Pancake^ peel, cut in quarter-inch slices, lengthwise, and fry in butter or drippings, putting in only one layer at a time and turning as pancakes. Or, cut lengthwise Ihe size and shape of the divisions of an orange, trim them neatly and fry ; they are an excellent garnish for meat. Or With Onions, slice both fine, and place in a skillet with one spoonful of hot butter or lard, season with pepper and salt, and fry till done. Or if wanted more delicate, first parboil onions, then fry as above. Or With Bacon, first fry thin slices or dice of bacon, take out and keep hot, frying the po- tatoes in the bacon fat ; serve with potatoes in center of platter and bacon around them. Cold cooked potatoes can be prepared in any of above waj^s, slicing when cold, never when hot, in quarter or half inch slices, and when fried as in first recipe, using only enough fat to prevent sticking, sprinkling with salt and covering Avith tin lid so they may both fry and steam; and in last recipe, fry the diced bacon till al- most (lone, then add chopped, cold, cooked potatoes and stir to- gether till nicely browned. For Fried Grated Potatoes, grate cold boiled potatoes, mix them with a little flour, melted butter, and salt until they form a stiff" paste. Form a roll and slice this, as thick as two pieces of potato for frying. Single-bread and frv. Mashed Potatoes. — Pare, if large cut in two, and boil till done ; drain and mash in kettle till perfectly smooth ; add cream or milk, butter and salt; beat like cake with a large spoon or fork, the lat- ter is preferable, till light and foamy, they cannot be thus beaten too much ; dip out lightly into a hot dish and literally coax into a delicate mealy heap, instead of packing and smoothing into a shapely mass. Allow about a teacup cream or milk and piece of butter size of an egg to a dozen medium-sized potatoes. Some have the cream hot, thinking it makes them much nicer; others boil po- tatoes in jackets, then peel and prepare as above, using only the large fork without the masher, and when ingredients are added, po- tatoes very hot, dish lightly and draw the fork backward over the potatoes to make a rough surface, browning with a hot salmander, if liked. Some rub through a sieve with the potato masher, then dress and beat with the fork. But however prepared it is very es- sential to beat till very light and serve very hot, and of course there must not be any lumps. To keep hot for any length of time, place saucepan, or pan in which they were mashed, in a pan of hot water, and leave on back of stove. When potatoes are dished, those who prefer a smooth surface can smooth over top, making several holes in it with bowl of spoon, filling with pieces of butter and also dotting with a little black pepper ; although if any pepper is used in seasoning, especially if mixed through the mashed potato, the 680 P0TAT0H9. ■white is preferable. Mashed potatoes may be made into any form of apples, pears, etc., by being molded with the hand; a clove in- serted for the eye of the fruit, and a piece of parsley stem for the stalk, then placed in oven till hot, or in a pan set in another of hot water on stove. For Broioned Mashed Potatoes, after mashed as above, heap on a small, oval platter, shape like a pyramid and perfectly smooth, then cover with a well-beaten egg and set in tlie oven to brown. Or add one or two well-beaten eggs, mix thoroughly, put in baking dish, dip a knife in sweet milk, smooth over, wetting every part with milk, and place in a hot oven twenty minutes. Or for Fried Mashed Potatoes, add a little cream or milk to cold mashed potatoes, press evenly in pan and in morning slice and fry. For Palmed. Potatoes, take cold mashed potatoes, season with salt butter, and a little cream or milk, and one or two eggs ; ^lace in a ])uttered pie pan, smooth and shape the top handsomely, make in s({Uares with a knife and brown in oven, placing on top grate if too hot; place pan on plate and serve. Whole cooked potatoes can be "panned" thus, by placing in pan on stove and adding little boil- ing water, then mashing and finishing as above. For a Puree of Potatoes, pare and boil six potatoes, drain them well, mash smoothly or beat them up with a fork ; add third of a pint stock or liroth, and rub potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a wvy clean saucepan with two tablespoons butter; stir well over fire until thoroughly hot, and it will then be ready to serve. A puree should bo rather thinner than mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the latter is not at hand. A Casserole of Potatoes, which is often used for ragouts in- stead of rice is made by having the above puree a little thic-ker, placing on platter and making an opening in center. Brown in oven, ^\\\^e off platter, pour in the ragout or fricassee and serve. For Swedish Potatoes, take a small piece of ham bone, or end of piece of dried beef, and cook. When a well-flavored broth is made, add peeled potatoes and cook till tender; skim out meat and if too much broth, pour off some, then mash and serve. Be careful not to put too much water over meat, for if needed when potatoes are ])Ut in, more can ])e added. Broth from boiled corned beef can ])e used instead of cooking any meat, adding part water if too salt. With Turnips, prepare as above adding peeled and sliced white turnips about half an hour before the potatoes; when they are done skim out meat and finish as above. Molded Potatoes. — After mashing potatoes, shape in mold ; cut a flat piece of sheet iron, about an inch larger than the top of mold, with a wire handle at each end ; lay it upside down on the mold, invert, remove mold, cover potato with beaten yolk of an egg, then cover with sifted bread-crumbs ; wipe the edge of the sheet- iron, then })lunge it instantly in a kettle of smoking-hot lard.. The P«TAT»1B. 681 potato must be hot when put in mold, so it will require nothing; more than browning ; and when this is perfect, lift the sheet from the lard, pass a knife between it and potato, and slide latter care- fully into the center of a platter, and garnish Avith curled parsley. Or take any cold potatoes ; mash with a fork until perfectly free from lumps ; stir in tablespoon each flour and butter, two of minced onion, and add sufficient milk to moisten well ; press potatoes in a mold, or baking dish and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown, which will be in twenty minutes ; turn out and serve. Ringed Potatoes. — Peel large potatoes, cut them round and round in shavings, as if paring an apple. Fry with clean, sweet lard in a frying-pan till brown, stirring so as to brown all alike, drain on a sieve, sprinkle fine salt over them and serve ; or place in wire basket and fry as fritters. These are used very often as a garnish and are then known as Potato Roses. Some after paring, let stand an hour or so in ice-cold water, draining and wiping with a towel before fry- ing ; when nearly done take out into colander for a few minutes, then put back in the kettle of fat and fry till done. This causes them to swell and they make a nice appearing dish Avhen served. Saratoga Potatoes. — Pare and shave the potatoes in evry thin slices, like wafers, on the vegetable plane ; let stand from fifteen minutes to an hour in ice-cold water, some adding salt or a piece of alum, size of a pea, to a quart of water, to chill and crisp the slices ; drain and dry in a napkin. Separate the slices and drop in kettle of smoking- hot fat, tested as directed in Fritters, as many as will float on top without touching each other, care ' vegetable pune. being taken not to fry too many at once ; some only put in eight or ten slices. Keep them separated by means of a fork, turning when the edges begin to color; and before this when slices connnence to cook one must watch very closely, as although they cook slowly at first, they finish very quickly, and after turning will soon be a golden brown ; when skim out with a wire spoon and put either in a paper-lined colander or dripping-pan, set in oven or back of range ; sprinkle with salt, and continue to thus fry and drain till all are prepared. Three medium-sized potatoes will be sufficient for four persons. Serve, either hot or cold, on a platter and they are also X^retty used as a garnish. They can be kept nice and crisp in a dry \varm place, and may be prepared quite awhile before serving, if necessary. When they are bought, always reheat in oven before using. The length of time of standing in water is immaterial, be- ing governed by the wants of the cook. Use kitchen, or any brown paper for placing in colander or pan. Castle Potatoes are sliced lengthwise, half inch thick and fried as above. Potatoes a la Maca- roni are made by cutting with a special machine in inch strips resembling macaroni, only square instead of round and fried as r>s2 POTATOES. Saratoga Fotato Eettie. Saratogas. For a breakfast dish Triangle Potatoes are much prized; pare small potatoes, divide in halves then in three pieces ; place ten or twelve tri- angles in frying )>asket and immerse in the hot fat eight or ten minutes. Drain as above and serve. Very small ones can be fried -whole. Cold cooked potatoes may be prepared in same way and also as Castle Potatoes. Some fry Sara- toga potatoes, a half pint or so at a time, in the frying basket; and there is also a regular Sara- toga Potato Kettle, In frying potatoes in basket as soon as fat is smoking hot again after putting them in, set back where potatoes will n(jt cook too fast. If the cooking is too rapid they will be brown before they are crisp, especially if fried in a quantity in the basket, which is a quicker Avay but potatoes are not so nice. Scalloped Potatoes. — Season, adil cream to mashed potato and lay in scallop shells, smooth the surface with blade of knife, and then score them across ; lay thin slices of butter upon them, and bake until well browned, serve hot in the shells. Or cut one quart cold boiled potatoes in veri/ thin slices, and season well with salt and pepper. Butter an earthen baking disli. Cover bottom with layer of White Sauce, add layer of potatoes, sprinkle with chopped parsley, then another layer of sauce, then potatoes, and so on till all are used. Have sauce for last layer and cover with fine bread-crumbs, put a spoon- ful butter in little bits on top, and cook twenty minutes. A cup of chopped ham or any kind of meats may be used with potatoes. Or cut in rather thick slices, with some bread in same-sized pieces (without any crust), and place bread and potatoes in the dish, al- ternating the layers. Cover with White Sauce in which a bay leaf has been cooked. Strew sugar upon the top and slightly brown in oven. Or for Sauced Potatoes, prepare as in second recipe, plac- ing all the potatoes in dish, then covering with the sauce and bread- crumbs ; or the potatoes may be sliced raw, cooked in a little Avater till tender, then placed in dish and finished as above. Use cream, milk, or water in making the sauce as directed on page 178. Steamed Potatoes. — Prepare as forlioiled potatoes or draAV the edge of a sharp knife half way around them, cutting third of an inch deep; place in patent steamer, or steam over a kettle of water ami cook till skin cracks and a fork easily penetrates the center, sprinkle with salt and serve at once, or if to be kept, leave in steamer, orer the fire. Some peel before serving, then salt, and it is nice to })lace them in oven for a few minutes and dish very liot. For Buheye Potatoes, pare and steam as above ; if large cut in two l)ieces, cutting out any defective parts. Steaming is a much better way of cooking old potatoes and also when to be served as Mashed Scallop POTATOES, 683 Potatoes ; pare and steam as above and have ready in crock or tin pan a cup of hot cream or milk, with a lump of butter and a season- ing of salt and white pepper, if wished ; place the above in a pan of hot water and when potatoes are done add them, mash and heat till almost a white foam ; then pile lightly in a hot dish and serve at once or brown slightly in oven. Having all ingredients hot makes a more delicious dish. Steamed potatoes will cook in about forty min- utes and it is better not to lift cover till done. Stewed Potatoes. — Put in saucepan a tablespoon butter, when melted add a level tablespoon flour, cook a few minutes and add a scant pint milk or cream, season with salt and pepper ; when it boils add a pint sliced, cold, boiled potatoes, cover and cook till po- tatoes are thoroughly heated, about ten minutes; stir once or twice, or if cooked in custard kettle will not need it. Some add table- spoon finel3'-chopped parsley, and just before serving, place on back of stove and when boiling has ceased, stir in yolk of an egg beaten with a teaspoon water and for Walnut House Potatoes use soup or gravy stock instead of milk, adding with the egg, or two if liked, a teaspoon lemon juice and another tablespoon butter. Potatoes may be cut in dice or quarter-inch slices. For Potatoes a la Maitre cV Hotels cook as in first recipe, omitting the milk and adding the parsley with juice of half a lemon ; stir well in this sauce and serve very hot. Some add tliree or four tablepoons gravy from roast meat or good gravy stock. Parsley Butter may be used instead of the plain butter in any of the recipes, omitting the parsley, and makes a delicious seasoning. For Laciiola Potatoes., cut cold po- tatoes quite small or in dice and put them in saucepan with milk enough to almost cover them. When the milk becomes hot, stir and mash potatoes with a large spoon until there are no lumps. Add salt, and a small bit of butter, stir often, until quite dry. They are nicer when cooked with plenty of milk, necessitating a great deal of stirring to prepare for serving. Or With Onio7is, make a sauce of melted butter and thinly sliced onions, fry brown, thicken with flour, thin with sou]) stock, add chopped parsley, salt and a little fresh cream, stir well, let boil and, when thick, put in the cold sliced potatoes and when they are hot, serve. Some use sour cream for this thinking it nicer, and a Gopher Pressing for Boiled or Baked Potatoes, to be used at table in place of butter or gravy, is simply sour cream. A nice Southern dish With Bacon is to brown in frying-pan a dozen thinly-sliced pieces of the latter, add a table- spoon flour and when well mixed, half pint boiling water ; then put in a scant pint of sliced potatoes and when hot serve. Or With Vinegar, cook as above using gravy stock, or broth from boiling either fresh or corned beef, instead of the water, and add with it two tablespoons vinegar. The pieces of bacon may be taken out, or but- ter used instead, if preferred. These last two recipes are nice made with raw potatoes, sliced as above, or whole if very small, using 684 POTATOBS. tAvice as much liquid and cooking till potatoes are tender. A bunch of sweet herbs added gives a delicious flavor, removing when served. StuiFed Potatoes. — Wash ten large potatoes with a brush ; bake onl}' until tender not mealy, not more than half an hour ; cut off one end, scoop out inside with teaspoon, rub through a sieve or mash tlioroughly, put in saucepan containing two table- spoons butter, three of grated Parmesan cheese, saltspoon white pepper and teaspoon salt, adding a little boiling milk, stir all over lire until scalding stuffed potatoes, hot ; then fill potato shells with mixture, put on ends, press potato gently in shape, heat them in the oven, and serve in a napkin placed in a hot dish. Or do not put on tops but sprinkle over a mixture of bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Or omit all the cheese and bread-crumbs, fill the shells heaping full, brown delicately in oven or with a hot salamander and serve as illustrated. Or take rather large cold steamed (pared) potatoes, cut off tops, and with round-topped knife carefully remove most of inside, leaving simply a protecting wall ; fill with chopped raw oysters slightly seasoned with pepper and salt and mixed with an egg; cover with tops, moistening edges with white of egg to make them adhere, and place in warm, not hot, oven for a few minutes, then single-bread and fry in hot lard. Or wash and pare eight large potatoes, cut off about an inch of smallest end, and with a knife or strong spoon scrape out center, leaving a shell about a third of an inch in thickness ; throw them with the tops cut off in cold water to keep them white. Then chop fine a pound of beefsteak, season with salt, pepper, pinch cayenne and desertspoon mushroom cat- sup, and pack mixture firmly in potatoes, first wiping them dry with a towel; pin tops on with wooden toothpicks, brush all over Avith beaten egg, stand in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, made hot, cover and cook slowly one hour, turning occasionally to brown all sides evenly. Or fill with sausage, minced fish, or any force- meat, brush over with melted butter and bake in oven about forty minutes. The potato may be cut in halves, then scooped out, filled and a bit of butter placed on top the filling and baked in oven. It will be necessary to cut a little piece off bottom of potato so they will stand firmly. Potato Balls. — Stir into nicely seasoned mashed potatoes, beaten yolks of one or two eggs ; make in small balls, single-bread and brown in oven ; or fr}' in frying-pan or as fritters. A little pars- ley or chopped onion may be added. Or With Meat, mix with one pint mashed potato, a tablespoon butter, two of cream and season with salt and white pepper, add beaten yolks of two eggs and scant half pint grated cold ham, and lastly th« well-frothed whites. Makt POTATOES. 685 in balls, flouring the hands slightly, roll the former in flour and fry ^— ^— V *^ ^s above. Nice served in center of platter, ' ^^^ surrounded by Brown Sauce or any good gravy. Or for Potato a la Painsienne, cut balls with a vegetable cutter from either cooked or raw potatoes and fry as above. If from the latter boil in water eight minutes then fry. Season with a lit- tle pepper, salt and chopped parsley. Potato JBiscuits. — To a pint mashed potatoes, add one beaten egg, when perfectly smooth add sufficient sugar to make quite sweet ; add well-frothed whites of four eggs, a pinch salt and a desertspoon of orange-flower water, or any flavoring wished, and place in either round or oblong biscuits,upon a paper-lined pan as Lady Fingers. Bake slow- ly until nicely browned and remove paper when biscuits are cold. For Potato Sandwiches^ take mashed potato, add pinch salt, a little milk and sufficient flour to make a light dough; roll out rather thin, cut into squares and toast in folding wire toaster, or broil on a gridiron ; place two together with a little butter between, and serve hot. One of the nicest surprises is a Potato ISurjyrise, grate cold boiled or steamed potatoes, or u-se mashed ones, one quart when pre- pared, add a little salt, flour enough to make a Arm dough, about a heaping pint, roll out half inch thick on floured board, and cut in cakes Avith a large biscuit-cutter ; or instead of rolling out take a piece of the dough in the hands potato surprise (flouring them) and mold to same shape. Have small dice of fresh ham, slightly fried, and place a few in the center of each cake, bring the dough up over them, pinch together and roll in the hands ; or place the meat on half the circle, fold over like a turn-over, and pinch edges well together ; place in boiling water, cover and cook till done, being careful not to boil very hard ; or place on buttered pie pan and bake in oven ; or fry as fritters, or in frying-pan. Serve with any nice gravy. Any fresh or chopped cold meat may be used. Potato Cal'es. — Mix thoroughly with cold, mashed potatoes, the well-beaten yolk of an egg ; make into small cakes,with floured hands, place in hot skillet with a tablespoon butter or ham or beef- drippings, cover tightly, and, in five minutes, when lower side is browned, remove cover, turn, fry until the other side is a nice brown ; serve hot. Some add a little flour to the mixture, and they may be . brushed with Pastry Glaze and baked in oven, when they are known as Duchesese Potatoes ; a more elaborate recipe is, to one pint hot mashed potatoes, rubbed through the colander, add tablespoon but- ter, well-beaten yolks of two eggs, with a seasoning of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg ; form into cakes, place on a buttered pie pan, brush over as above and brown in oven. Or for a Potato Cake, take a pint mashed potatoes ; mix with them five tablespoons flour, two of butter, salt and pepper, and as much lukewarm milk as will make 686 POTATOES. a smooth, firm dough ; add one egg and half teaspoon baking pow- der. Roll paste out with a rolling-pin till it is nearly two inches thick; dredge a little flour over and cut it out the exact size of the frying-i)an. Ru]> pan over with butter, lay cake carefully into it, cover and shake every now and then to prevent burning ; when brown on one side turn it over carefully on the other. Serve on a hot dish with i)lenty of good fresh butter. Sweet Potatoes may lie prepared in same way. Or for Potato Pudding^ wash, peel, and grate six or eight potatoes ; add four tablespoons each sugar and melt- ed butter or dripping, one teaspoon salt and quarter teaspoon pepper, mix well together, place in buttered baking dish, and put it into a brisk oven until it is done, and nicely browned. Some add grated rind and juice of half a lemon and yolks of two or three eggs. Potato Croquettes. — Pare six potatoes ; cut in small pieces, put in boiling water and cook till soft; drain, and put through a cohni- der, mix three eggs (one at a time) with the potatoes; add two tablespoons bread-crumbs and a little salt. Cook, stirring con- stantly ; when thoroughly heated take off, let cool, roll into balls and fry in hot lard as directed in Fritters and Croquettes. Sweet Potatoes prepared in same way. Or cook as above one i)int mashed potato, gill milk, three tal)lespoons each l)Utter and sugar, a little nutmeg and teaspoon salt. Take off and add two well-beaten yolks, stir until very smooth and light, spread, aliout half an inch deep, on a buttered disli and set away to cool. When cold, cut in sqiuires, single-ljread, using the whites, and fry as above. Serve inmiediately. Or roast a dozen fine potatoes : When done, scrape out the interior, which form into a ball. When cold put into a mortar and mix with six tablespoons butter, sea- ^^ son with a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley and Potato Croquettes. shallots aud gratcd nutmeg. Add beaten ycdks of four and two whole eggs, form into croquettes the size of a small pear, or in a small roll ; double-egg-bread, page 299, and fry in a ket- tle of hot fat or in a little butter or drii){)ings in frying-pan. (!arn- ish with sprigs of fresh green parsley, and serve very hot. Or \Vit/i Grav;/^ cook them in boiling gravv or milk. When done serve tbeiii in the sauce. If preferred, a little anchovy, shrimp, parsley, or lobster butter may be used in place of the herbs, etc. Potato Flour. — Peel, and grate potatoes into an earthen pan, filled Avith pure, soft cold water; when the water begins to clear hy the settling of ])ulp to bottom, pour it off gently and add more, stir pulp with hand, rub through a hair sieve, pour on more water, let stand until clear, pour off and renew again, repeating several times until the farina is perfectly white and water clear. The air darkens it ami it must be kejtt in the water as much as possil)le during the process. Spread the prepared farina l)efore tire, covering with paper to keep it from dust; wlien dry. pulNcrize it, sift, l)ottle, and cork POTATOES. 687 tightly. Potato Jelly is made by rubbing to a smooth powder, Avith the back of a spoon, equal quantities potato flour and sugar and pouring over them boiling water, till proper consistenc}^ ; flavor as preferred. This is quite as nourishing as arrowroot, and possesses the great advantage of not turning watery when it grows cold. Two heaping teaspoons each of flour and sugar will be found to be suf- ficient for half a pint. For Potato Blanc-man{/e make a stiff' jelly and while hot, stir into it almonds, blanched and pounded. Potato Fritters. — Put five tablespoons flour into a bowl, mix with it teaspoon salt and half of white pepper, pour tablespoon salad oil into center and over this a gill tepid water, beating all well to- gether ; add well-beaten white of egg, stirring very carefully in order not to break the froth. Quarter five boiled potatoes, and dip each piece separately in batter. Drop in hot clarified fat, fry three min- utes, drain, and serve hot. Potato Omeht. — Take three or four steamed potatoes, mash, season, and add a little cream ; then stir this with the yolks of six eggs and the whites of two. Fry till browned on one side, fold and serve at once. Or quarter four cold boiled potatoes, cut in thin slices or dice, season and add beaten yolks of four eggs, and lastly the well-frothed whites and fry as any omelet. Potato Panealies.—^o two grated large raw potatoes add tAvo beaten eggs, a tablespoon thick cream, salt and pepper, a little spice, and if wished, a little grated lemon peel. Drop a spoonful at a time into a skillet in Avhich is some melted butter or beef drippings ; spread out rather thin ; when brown on both sides sj^rinkle a little sugar on them and serve. Potato PicMes. — Wash and peel some very early potatoes, cut in long thin slips, and pass through two or three Avaters ; drain, place in a cloth, and sprinkle with fine salt ; let remain for half an hour, rub dry in the cloth, and put them into a cold pickle of spiced vinegar to which a clove of garlic (bruised) or sliced shallot has been added. Tliis pickle should be very crisp and is nice Avhen made with Tarragon or any flavored vinegar, spiced. A few slices of boiled beets will give a fine color. Some cook slightly at first. Potato Pie. — Make a crust as for chicken or beefsteak pie, line a deep pie pan and fill Avith freshly cooked potatoes mashed and seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, butter, and cream ; over this sprinkle a little summer savory, if liked, or sprinkle AA'ith a little catsup, chowchoAv or any fine pickle, cover Avith crust, and bake in quick oven until crusts are done ; serve Avith fried chicken, veal cut- lets, or any other meats AAdth AvhichabroAvn graAy is served. Or for a Dee}) Potato Pie, take a small quantity of meat of any kind — half pound is sufficientjand bacon, ham, potted fish with hard-boiled eggs, 688 POTATOES. odds and ends of l)cef, or poultry, will answer the purpose ; cut nny of these into pieces, lay in bottom of baking dish, season ; pare and slice a quart of raw potatoes, place over meat, strew over bits of but- ter, cover with a crust if liked or sprinkle with l)read-crumbs, or omit either, and bake in rather a slow oven. Sliced cooked potatoes can be used, making an economical and palatable way of serving up odd scraps ; if any sauce, such as bread, parsley, white, etc., is left, it may also be added to the pie, and if wished the meatcan be omit- ed if sauce is used ; or mashed potatoes may be taken, putting in layers with chopped pickles over each layer of meat ; or other cook- ed vegetables, such as spinach, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., may ])e used in place of meat. There should be about three times as much potato as meat, fish or vegetables. When cooked, fresh fish is used, mix a raw egg with it instead of slices of hard-boiled eggs, as above. Potato Puffs. — Beat three cups mashed potatoes to a cream W'ith quarter cup butter, add three well-l)eaten yolks, half cup sweet cream, or part milk, tablespoon sugar and pinch of salt wdth the Avell-frothed whites. Bake in spoonfuls on a well-buttered pan in a quick oven ; w^hen done, slip a knife under, slide upon a hot platter and serve at once, garnished with parsley. Potaio Rolls. — Wash medium-si»ed potatoes, pare and cut in the form of small rolls of about three inches in length and an inch and a half across ; dip into beaten egg, wrap each in a thin slice of fat bacon large enough to envelop it, and pin together with wooden toothpicks ; arrange in a small baking-dish, put into a moderately hot oven, and bake until the potatoes are done ; grate a little toas't u))on them and serve at once. Or take equal quantities of cooked fresh meat of any kind, or game or poultry, and fresh butter, and twice the quantity of mashed potatoes ; pound alltogether in a mor- tar, season wdth pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; add some raw egg to make it of the proper consistency; roll portions of it in a little flour, giving them the form of rolls; poach them in boiling water; drain them ; let them become cold ; dip them into beaten egg, then into melted butter, and fry until nicely l^iowned on all sides ; serve Avith a rich gravy sauce. A small portion of sausage meat, mixed with some mashed potatoes and treated same makes a delicious dish. Potato Salad. — Cut pieces of streaky bacon, or ham, into small neat dice, fry slowly in frying-pan for a minute or so, then add two medium-sized finely-chopped onions, stir well with meat, dredge with ilour and cook till onions are a light brown, add salt, four table- spoons vinegar, a little pepper and half pint water, or if vinegar not very strong use more of it and less water, stir well and pour over sliced boiled potatoes. Potato Slaw. — Slice six or eight cold boiled potatoes into a crock, with one large or two or three small onions, season Avith salt POTATOES 689 and pepper and pour cnp vinegar over. Heat two tablespoons drip- pings and pour over very hot, stir all well together with a fork, tak- ing care not to break potatoes ; let stand four or five hours, stir again, put in dish and serve. More onions may be added if liked. Make from cold potatoes left at dinner and will be read}- for tea. Potato SouMe. — Boil five good-sized mealy potatoes, pass through a sieve ; scald in a clean saucepan half cup sweet milk and tablespoon butter, add to potato with a little salt and pepper, and beat to a cream ; add one at a time, yolks of four eggs, beating thor- oughly, drop a small pinch salt into whites and beat to a stiff froth, add, mixing as lightly as possible ; have ready a well-buttered souffle or baking dish, large enough to permit the souffle to rise without running over; bake twenty minutes in a brisk oven, serve at once in the same dish in which it was baked, placing in the ornamental receptacle as described on page 125; or tying on the Knitted Cover ^ crocheted of white tidy yarn, with cord and tassels at top so it can be drawn tightly around the top edge of the baking dish, thus mak- ing a pretty bottom cover for anything served in dish in which it was baked. The souffle should be eaten with meats that have gravies. Potato Soup. — Pare and slice four large potatoes, cover with water, cook till tender and rub all through colander ; acid to this a quart of rich milk, two tablespoons butter and season with salt and pepper ; boil up once and serve. Some add a tablespoon each chop- ped onion, celery and parsley, speck of cayenne and half tablespoon flour made smooth in a little milk. Strain into tureen and serve with croutons of toasted bread. If wished richer, use only a pint of milk, and put two well-beaten eggs in tureen, stirring rapidly while pouring in the soup. Some do not strain the soup. Potato Stew. — Boil one pound salt pork in two quarts water ; when done, take out, add twelve raw potatoes and two onions sliced, or if very small leave potatoes whole ; cook three-quarters of an hour, and add tablespoon butter and cup milk mixed with a beaten egg ; boil a moment or two and serve ; or if not wished with as much liquid, prepare the dressing of butter, milk and egg in sauce- pan, skim out potatoes and onions, add, and boil up once in it. Score the meat and I'lrowni in oven and serve. If quite salt, soak a little while before cooking. Or Without Meat, place three table- spoons lard, drippings or butter in saucepan, wdien hot, mix in two of flour, and add about three pints water; when boiling, add twelve sliced raw potatoes with salt and pepper. Stir occasionally and when done, serve hot. Potato Snow. — Boil fine, white, mealy potatoes, drain off, and set on back of stove with a cloth over them till they are quite dry and fall apart ; then, using a potato masher, rub through a hot col- iinder, or coarse ware sieve upon the hot dish in which to be served. 690 POTATOES. taking care not to crush the snow as it fullsj, never tottch'tng it. It will drop in lung coils, which heap themselves up invitinon fish, strew bits of butter over and place for twenty mi'.mtes in a moderately hot oven. Potatoes With Kidney. — Take a sheep's kidney, or a piece of calf's liver of an equivalent size, chop finely and season with salt, spices, and a few herbs finely chopped ; add to it a tables]ioon but- ter cut in bits ; chop up four medium-sized raw potatoes, well washed and i)celed, mix thorouglily with meat, i^acc in buttered baking dish, sift over bread-cruml>s, and bake for three-quarters of an hour in a slow oven ; serve in dish in which it was baked. A lit- tle shalot or onion may be added if wished. Or With CaJ>ha(/e, eillier mash some hot, or finely chop some cold potatoes, season with pepper and salt, and add to them just enough boiled young cal;,)age to give nice green color to potatoes ; add butter, and either fry quickly, or bake as above. It may be fried afterpieces of bacon, and both be arranged together in dish. POTATOES. 691 Potatoes With Onions. — Boil potatoes in skins, peel while hot and slice ; let sliced onions stand in salt and water an hour, then put them in fiiying-pan with a little ham gravy or butter and a little water, cook slightly, skim out and put in vegetable dish first a layer of onions, then potatoes, then onions, etc., with potatoe^s last; add a cup of vinegar to frying-pan in which the onions were cooked ; let boil and pour over the vegetables. The proportions of onions and potatoes can be half and half or as wished. For Galveston Pota- toes, boil potatoes ; when done, mash, season with salt, pepper and butter; mince a large onion very fine, mix well through the pota- toes, put in baking dish and brown in oven ; or for Potato Loaves, place spoonfuls of above under and around meat, when roasting, about fifteen minutes l^efore latter is done ; baste the little loaves, so they will brown nicely. For the well-known Lyonaise Potatoes, put two tablespoons butter or drippings in a frying-pan and add two sliced onions ; when they begin to color add cold potatoes, sliced in quarter-inch slices or cut in dice, using about eight })otatoes ; shake or stir them gently till a golden brown, add a tablespoon of finely chopped parsley, mix through slightly and serve very hot. Some add juice of a lemon just before serving, and others drain dry l)y shaking in a heated colander. Potatoes for Garnishing. — Take potatoes sufficient in number to decorate a dish ; wash, peel, and cut in any form fancied — whether balls, pine-apples, stars, diamonds, etc. ; let stand in salted water a little while, dry upon a towel, and place at bottom of saucepan, cover with clarified butter, bring quickly to a boil, and then cook slowly till of a fine golden brown ; drain, and fry lightly in frying- pan Avith butter, adding a little veal glaze. Let them be ready just in time for the dish they are to garnish. Or mash and fry in spoon- fuls in a frjang-pan with drippings or a little butter and place upon small collops of calf's liver or meat of any kind, or arrange them in a rim round a dish of fried sausages. Or, for a Potato Border pare and boil fine medium-sized potatoes, mash and beat with a large fork till light as a feather ; add tablespoon butter, teaspoon salt, yolks of two eggs, (the whites make it more difficult to form in shape) and three-quarters of a gill of hot cream ; mix well, press the ]iotato tightly in the crown mold and let stand fifteen minutes in a Avarm ^ place ; then turn out carefully on platter, brush with Pastry Glaze, brown in oven and fill center with a ragout, fricassee or whatever wished. Balced Sweet-potatoes. — Wash, and bake in oven in their jack- ets one hour, and serve without peeling ; or With Meat, steam or boil them, remove skins, place in pan around the meat and baste often, browning nicely ; or they may be put around the meat with- out first cooking, but are not as nice and will not brown well. If 692 roTATOES. large cut in tv.o lengthwise or even quarter them, and turn as needed. Sweet-potatoes are delicious with Roast Pork. For CaroVnia Sweet- potatoes, slice raw potatoes, put in baking dish, sprinkle with sugar and more than cover Avith water; cover tlie dish and bake about two liours. Tlie syrup-gravy is much prized. Or for Texas Sweet-po- tatoes, peel,ph\ce in pan, pouring a little hot water over them, set in oven and bake, turning them so as to brown evenly ; pour in more water as needed ; let the pan be about dry when they are done. Serve on hot dish. Or boil or steam till nearly done, peel and cut in lengthwise slices ; put a layer of potatoes witii bits of butter dot- ted over them, and sprinkle well with sugar ; add another layer of potatoes, butter, and sugar, until dish is full. Add very little water, and bake. For Perfection Siceet-potatoes, slice cold l)oiled pota- toes crosswise, in half-inch slices ; dip in egg then in farina, and sprinkle over with sugar. Place in a hot dripping-pan and dot each piece with •a bit of butter and l^rown in oven about ten minutes. Serve on a hot dish. For Boasted Sweet-potatoes, roast in ashes, as Irish potatoes, remove skin and serve. They have a delicious and peculiar flavor so cooked. Sweet-potatoes prepared in any way are especially nice served with chicken. Always cut off ends, when pre- paring for baking, the same as Irish potatoes. Boiled Simet-'potaioes. — Wash and boil as Irish potatoes, with- out any salt ; when tender, peel and place in oven to dry and In-own delicately, if wished. Serve like Irish potatoes, a dressing of melted butter being nice. The best way to cook them is as Steamed Sireet- potatoes, finishing as above. For Mashed Potatoes, boil or steam and prepare as Irish potatoes. However cooked, they require more time than the Irish. Browned Sweet-potatoes. — Put in a frying-pan half cup each butter and lard, cup sugar, and pint water ; pare potatoes, slice length- wise if large, add and keep closely covered, boil until water boils away, then l:)rown nicely but do not let burn. After removing potatoes, pour in cup cream, let poil and pour over potatoes. Serve hot. Or cut cold boiled potatoes in thick slices and season. Have butter or drippings in frying-pan and add slices to cover the bottom ; brown and turn as i)ancakes. Sliced raw ones may be prepared same, be- ing careful not to cook too long as they will become hard. Par- snips may be browned as above. Fried Sweet-potatoes. — Peel, slice, and drop in smoking-hot fat, turning to nicely brown both sides, or fry sliced cooked ones same ; or single-bread, some using flour instead of crumbs and fry. Glazed Sweet-potatoes. — Boil till tender, peel carefully, and lay in buttered dripping-pan, in a good oven; as they begin to crust over, baste with a little butter, repeating this several times as they brown ; when glossy and a golden color, dish and serve while hot. POTATOES. 693 Stewed Sweet-potato. — Peel and slice a quart of sweet potatoes, put them over the fire in boiling water to cover, and boil till tender ; drain, and add to them p, heaping tablespoon butter, saltspoon salt, and enough milk to cover ; let boil and serve at once, if allowed to cook after tender they will soon break. Sweet-potato Calies. — Boil, remove skins, and rub potatoes through a coarse colander ; make into flat cakes, dip in flour and fry in hot butter. For Biscuits, mash well four medium-sized cold boiled sweet-potatoes, add four tablespoons flour, piece of butter and a little milk to make a dough as for biscuit dough. Roll on pastry board, cut with biscuit-cutter, and place in a i««ired baking pan. If oven is very hot, put upper grate under pan ••d a piece of paper over cakes to render them more moist. Sweet-potato Cheesecakes. — Beat quarter of a pint butter with three or four potatoes (quarter of a pound), well mashed ; add yolks of two or three eggs, gill sugar, quarter pound dried currants, pre- pared as for cake; beat well, then add lightly the well-frothed whites, and rind and juice of a lemon, which causes it to curd. Line patty- pans with a rich Pufl" Paste, place a heaping teaspoon of mixture in each and bake in a quick oven. These are very delicious and equal- ly nice made with Irish potatoes. 694 POULTRY. POULTRY. What can "he more tompting to the ppicnre than a handsomely browned and crusted luwl? And altliough poultry is not considered equal to fish as a food for brain-workers, it contains more of the muscle-making and heat-producing elements than beef or veal. This is especially the case with the thighs and legs of chickens and turk- eys, which are far superior to the breast as real food. The latter is dry and somewhat tasteless while the former is juicy and of rich flavor. While this is true of poultry and the larger game ; with birds which live "on the wing" it is just the opposite; their breasts are juicy and more nutritious while the meat on the thighs is poor and dry. There are many ways of preparing poultry besides the tempt- ing roast, which make delicious and dainty dishes ; but the first secret of success lies in the care of, killing, picking, singeing, plump_ ing, cutting up and dressing of chickens and turkeys. Very full and complete directions for which are given, in Cutting and Curing Meats in the back part of book. After a fowl is nicely dressed, if to be served whole, it can still be made to look more plump by flatten- ing the breast bone ; place several thicknesses of cloth over the lat- ter and pound it, being careful not to break the skin ; then rub in- side well with salt and pepper. Make any stuff'ing or force-meat wished and stuff the breast first, but not too full or it will burst in cooking; stufl'the body rather fuller than the breast, sew uj) both openings with strong darning cotton, and sew the skin of the neck over upon the back or down upon the breast, remembering that these threads must be carefully removed before sending to the table. Lay the points of the wings under tlie back, and fasten in that posi- POULTRY. (395 tion with a skewer run through both wings and held in place with clean twine ; press the legs as closely towards the breast and side- bones as possible, giving an upward and pushing motion, and fasten with a skewer run through the body and both thighs, push a short skewer through above the tail, and tie ends of legs down, with a twine, close to the skewer ; then place the fowl on its breast and take the strings which tie the legs and bring them around the skewer in the wings ; pass them back and forth, across the back, to the skewer in tail two or three times and tie very tightly. Trussing thus, a handsome shape wall be given, and all the strings will be on the back, so that the crust with which the breast of a perfectly roasted fowl is covered need not be broken. If one has not skewers, proceed as' above, tying in shape as nicely as possible. It is now ready for roasting or boiling. If to be roasted rub over lightl}^ with salt, or some do not use any until half done. Never use pepper, on the outside until fowl is done ; as the scorching which it undergoes when on the surface, entirely changes the flavor. Always use white pep- per, if any. A handsome appearance may be gained for the roast by larding the breast and where the fowls are rather dry it is a nicer way. Proceed as directed on page 459, using a smaller needle than ^ ^=, „ ■ „;^ ^^j^ for meats. The heating, for a moment, / ^ ^ of the flesh renders it firmer, enabl- "~^^ ^ ^ ing one to lard more easily. The Needle and Lardoon. illustratiou shows a scparato needle and lardoon and one ready for use. When one can not lard, the "barding", as described, is very nice, especially for small game, such as quails, etc. Both chickens and turkeys, if roasted, are thought to be better steamed, especially if chickens are over a year old, and old chickens can be deliciously fried if, after cutting, the pieces are first steamed till tender. Stewing and boiling are well approved ways of cooking chickens of a questionable age. Always put on in boiling water, unless soup is wanted, when use cold ; skim when it boils up first, and place where it will only simmer ; which, although defined as "gentle boiling" is by competent authorities on cookery, considered not hoiling, but just the next step ; a degree of heat hot enough to coagulate the albumen, and soften the fibrin, being of the temperature of 18l ' when tested by a thermometer. When cooked in water kept at boiling point, which is much less effective than simmering, the flesh becomes tough rather than tender, and there is 696 POULTRY. both a waste of fuel and a poorly-served fowl. Putting in boiling Avatcr at first is very important in order that the surface may be quickly sealed, thus retaining all the juices ; then simmering as di- rected, the fowl, or any meat, will be tender, jucier and finer flav- ored in much less time than if water is always kept at boiling i>oint ; thus proving a much more economical as well as satisfactory method of stewing and boiling. Alittle vinegar added to the water makes fowls more tender, and pinch of sugar adds to flavoi ; if very old, some sprinkle a spoonful soda over, letting stand a day or two, wash- iiig off and cooking. The same result would be secured withoutthe soda, we think ; as "hanging" for a f(>w days, or even longer, is con- sidered the only approved way of i)reparing poultry by many, especially among the English. In roasting as in boiling, have a high degree of heat at first, for the same purpose of searing the sur- face, then graduate to a moderate heat until done ; to test which in- sert a fork between the thigh and body, if the juice is watery and not Ijloody it is done. If not served at once, the fowl may be kept liot without drying up, by placing it over a pan of boiling water, set on top of stove or range, and inverting a dripping-pan over it. The wire rack or trivet placed inside the dripping-pan is quite essential in roasting, or patty-pans or muffin rings may be used. The pan for turkey should be three or even four inches deep, and measure at the bottom about sixteen by twenty inches, with sides somewhat flaring. Home roast without water, thinking the larding or butter makes sufficient drippings for basting ; others add a very little hot water. When fowls are frozen, they must be entirely thawed in cold wnter, before l)eing cooked. Chickens are seasonable at all times, l)ut "spring chickens" should be three or four months old to be a wliolesome diet, as the flesh is too immature before that time. Tur- keys are decidedly a fall and winter delicacy. Poultry whether roasted or boiled may be served with a Giblet Gravy made as di- rected in Gravies. Some of the garnishes are parsley, fried oysters, thin-sliced ham, slices of lemon, fried sausages or force-meat balls. Baked Chicken. — Dress and split young chickens open by cut- ting with a sharp knife down the side of the back-bone ; then press apart and clean as directed, wipe perfectly dry and put in dripping- pan, bone side, or inside down, witliout any water or butter; have the oven hot and they will be done in a half to three-quarters of an POULTRY. 697 hour. Take out, and season with butter, salt and pepper ; pack one above another as closely as possible, and place in pan over boiling water, covering closely to keep hot and moist while making Giblet Gravy — see Gravies. Or, when tender., spread over paste of butter and flour as in Roast Chicken. These are very nice, Avithout gravy, for picnic or traveling lunch,Avhen the seasoning of butter should be omit- ted. Or for Buckeye Baked Chicken, cut each chicken into seven or nine pieces, wash carefully and quickly, and put in colander to drain ; put a half tablespoon each lard and butter in dripping-pan, lay in the pieces, and add half pint hot water ; place in oven and bake half an hour ; turn, taking care that they get only to a light brown, and just before taking up, add salt and pepper to taste ; when done take out in a dish and keep hot. To make the gravy, add a half pint or more of water, set the dripping-pan on the stove, and add tablespoon flour mixed with half cup cream or milk, stirring slowly, adding a little of the mixture at a time. Let cook thoroughly, stir- ring constantly to prevent burning, and to make the gravy nice and smooth ; season more if necessary. Some do not put water in pan, but use plenty of butter, or drippings and butter. For Baked Chicken with Parsnips, wash, scrape, and quarter parsnips, and parboil for twenty minutes ; prepare a young chicken by splitting open at back, place in dripping-pan, skin side up, lay parsnips around it, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add lump of butter size of an egg, or two or three slices good pickled pork ; put enough water in pan to prevent burning, place in oven and bake until chicken and parsnips are done a delicate brown ; serve chicken separately on platter, pouring the gravy in pan over the parsnips. For Breaded Chicken^ cut a tender chicken into seven pieces, roll in beaten yolks of two eggs, then in finely grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with chopped parsley, pepper and salt ; place in dripping- pan, dot the pieces with tablespoon butter in bits, add a little water and bake slowly, basting often. When done, take out chicken and make gravy in pan by adding mixture of flour and butter, made smooth by stirring. Add either cream or milk to make sufficient gravy, and season to taste. Boiled Chicken. — Stuff" or not, as wished, and then truss as di- rected. Put in kettle in about a pint boiling water, adding more if necessary, but if only simmered as directed in preface, more will not be needed, unless a quantity of gravy is wished. After skimming, cover and cook till tender. It will be finer flavored if cooked in as little water as possible. Take out chicken, add butter if needed, and a slight thickening of browned flour; this may be poured over the chicken ; or any piquant sauce may be thus used, and a ^ sauce-boat of Giblet Gravy made, as directed "° in Gravies, adding the water and chopped Boiied'chickiTwith Rice, giblets to the kettle. They can be cooked with the chicken, but it G98 POULTRY. would necessitate more water in order to have plenty of p:ravy, and the chicken would not be as nice; if fresh water is added just at last, to make gravy, the latter will not be as nicely flavored, as if it were the water in which the gi])lets had been cooked an hour or two. The chicken may also be served on a bed of Swedish Rice, see Vegetables, and makes a handsome dish. Broiled Chicken. — Cut the chicken open on the back and pound on meat board until it will be flat ; it can then be put on the grid- iron in neat, com])act form, and flattening also prevents one ])ait fiom burning wliile another is underdone. Put on gridiron, inside or bone side down, as the chicken cooks more thoroughly in this way, the inner surface being quickly seared and the juices retained. Turn, to brown both sides nicely, and often enough to prevent burn- ing. It will take twenty or thirty minutes to cook thoroughly and will cook much better to cover with a pie pan held down with a weight so that all parts of chicken may lay close to gridiron. »Some dip in melted butter or rub over well with butter before broiling. Serve A'cry hot simply seasoned with salt, pepper and butter; or while chicken is broiling, jiut liver, gizzard and heart in saucepan and boil in pint water until tender, take out and add flour, butter, pepper, salt, and cup SAveet cream to the Avater ; when chicken is done, dip it in this gravy while hot, lay it back on the gridiron a minute, then add the chopped giblets to the gravy, put in the chicken, let boil for a half minute, and send to table hot. Broiled Quail, prepared and served in same way, is very nice. Unless the chicken is very young it should be steamed before broiling until almost ten- der, or put in a hot oven ten minutes. Some broil a few thin slices of salt pork Avith the chickens and serA'e them garnished Avith the pork, slices of lemon and parsley. Fried Chicken. — Put frying-pan on stove wdth a half tablespoon each lard and butter ; Avhen hot lay in the pieces of chicken, sprinkle Avith flour, salt and pepper, place on lid, and cook over moderate fire ; Avhen a light broAvn, turn the chicken and sprinkle flour, salt and pepper over top as at first ; if necessary add more lard and butter, and cook sloAvly until done, keeping closely covered ; make gravy same as for l)aked chicken. As a general rule three-quarters of an hour is long enough to fry s])ring chicken. To make rich and nice graA'3' Avithout cream, beat yolk of an egg light, strain and stir sloAvly into graA'v after flour and milk have been stirred in and thoroughly cooked ; as soon as it boils uj) the gravy is done, and should be re- moved from stove. Or put in a tablespoon each butter and chop- ped parsley, pint of cream and seasoning ol salt and })ep]ier ; stir OA'er the fire, loosening all browned particles from ])an and adding tablespoon flour if necessary. Boil up and serve, poured oA-er or around the chicken, or send on in sauce-boat. Some dip pieces in hot Avater and roll in flour instead of sprinkling Avith it, and they rouLTRY. 699 may also be single-breaded. Always steam or parboil before frying, unless chickens are very young. For Oreoled Chicken^ cut a three pound chicken as directed and fry the back, thighs, legs and wings in a little hot fat until half done ; then put in the breast in two pieces with tablespoon chopped onion, clove of garlic, chopped, and bunch herbs and fry five or ten minutes ; add an ordinary slice of raw ham, diced, four or five large tomatoes, cut in very small pieces, season- ing well with salt and pepper, and when all are cooked, serve to- gether on platter. For Fried Gumho, cut up two j^oung chickens, and fry in skillet ; when brown, put in pot with quart finely chop- ped okra, four large tomatoes, and two onions chopped fine ; cover with boiling water, boil very slowly, and keep kettle tightly closed ; add boiling Avater as it wastes, and simmer slowly three hours ; sea- son with salt, pepper, and a little butter and flour rubbed together ; serve with boiled rice. A nice addition is a dozen or so oysters fried in a little butter and added just before serving. Fried Whole Chicken is a nice dish when the fowls are young and tender. Truss as for roasting, but do not stuff", then fty by innnersing in hot fat until a nice brown or first single-bread them. The chickens may be steamed until tender, then fried as above. Chickens fried after any method given may be garnished with fried oysters, hominy or rice. Jellied Chicken. — Cook tAvo chickens in small quantity of water, until meat will part from the bone easily ; season to taste with salt and pepper; just as soon as cold enough to handle, re- move bones and 'skin ; place meat in deep pan or mold, just as it comes from the bone, using gizzard, liver and heart, until the mold is nearly full, and put bones and skin back in the water chicken was cooked in. Boil this till a little less than a quart and add half box or an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little warm water, and juice of lemon if wished, strain and pour over chicken in mold ; leave to cool, cut with a very sharp knife and serve. The slices will not easily break up if directions are followed, j^ued ch.u»^u'iv..i» tggs. Some add to the broth an onion, stalk celery, twelve pepper-corns, piece of mace, four cloves, white and shell of one egg and salt and ])epper to taste. Three tablespoons corn-starch may be used in- stead of the gelatine. Sliced hard-boiled eggs, and thin slices of lemon, if liked, neatly arranged around bottom and sides of mold or bowl add greatly to the appearance of the dish. Or put in layers of eggs and chopped chicken alternately. Stuffed Eggs in halves are also molded with chicken with pleasing effect. Some put in pud- ding dish and bake, turning out when cold. When making chicken salad if all bits of the meat rejected for the salad are put back into the quart of liquor, thickened with gelatine or corn-starch as above and turned into a mold lined with sliced eggs, a very good Plain Jellied Chicken will result. For Chicken in Jelly ^ soak an ounce gelatine in cup cold water twenty minutes ; squeeze it quite 7U0 POULTRY. drj' and melt it in pint clear stock in which a large tablespoon marjoram and half the rind of a lemon have been simmerea ten minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and strain. Cover bottom of a mold half an inch thick with the gravy and when nicely set in jelly, place upon it slices of hard-boiled eggs, slices of beet and gherkins cut in fancy shapes. Mince together the meat from two boiled chickens and a half pound each cooked ham and tongue ; season and press this into compact shape and put in center of mold, leaving an inch of space around every side ; hll this space with the jelly which should not be poured in until quite cool so that it may harden quickly and preserve the shape of the meat. This dish may be made very handsome and in cold weather will keep a week. For a more elaborate dish, cover l)ottomof mold with a clear gelatine or aspic jelly about an inch in depth ; when it stiffens, put a sprig of parsley in center, spreading the leaves, leaving the stem up and hold it thus while pouring in a little more half-thickened jelly ; when this hardens cut a hard-boiled egg in two lengthwise, and lay the halves obliquely across it ; cover these with jelly, and when hard lay in long, delicate i3tri])s of breast of chicken, seasoned with pep- per and salt; cover with jelly to within an incli and a half of top ; when hard, put a lining of very thin lemon slices around mold, lay in more Itits of chicken, fill mold with jelly, and place on ice. While filling inold, keep the jelly standing in hot water as it must not harden, and the mold in a pan of ice, unless it is very cold weather, when mold may stand outside a window. Always wet mold with water before using. Masked Chicken. — Dissolve half ounce gelatine in four table- si)oons cold Avater ; put a quart stock in saucepan with tablespoon vinegar, sprig of parsley, half teaspoon black pepper and half salt- spoon salt, and when hot add the dissolved gelatine. Beat whites of three eggs, adding four tablespoons cold Avater, and stir into mixture in sauce])an with fork or egg whip. The moment it boils draw to back of range and simmer slowly twenty minutes, then strain through clean towel and let stand overnight. Next day cut wings and legs from cold boiled fowl, trim neatly, cut two fillets from the breast, taking care not to break the grain of the meat, and remove skin ; melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, stir in four table- S])oons flour, add gradually half pint milk and when boiling add a gill cream, seasoning of white pepper and salt, and stir while it boils two minutes. Take off fire and add tablespoon of the cold jelly ])re}iared as above. Then dip the pieces of chicken into this sauce and })lace on a sieve to drain and cool half an hour. When quite cold arrange the pieces of masked chicken neatly in bottom of dish, chop the cold jelly coarsely and scatter over them and garnish with fresh sprigs of parsley. Or the hot sauce may be poured over the pieces of chicken, set away to cool, and at serving time dish them, with the sauce that will adhere, on large slices of cold sweet-pota- POULTRY. 701 toes, fried a golden brown in butter, putting a lump of the jelly on each piece of chicken. Garnish with parsley. Pickled ChicJcen. — Boil four chickens till tender enough for meat to fall from bones ; put meat in stone jar, and pour over it three pints cold vinegar, and a pint and half of water in which chickens were ])oiled ; add spices if preferred, and it will be ready for use in two days. A very delicious relish. Potted Chicken. — Pick meat from the bones of cold roast fowl, free from gristle and skin, weigh, and to every pound meat allow four tablespoons fresh butter, teasjjoon pounded mace, half a nutmeg, grated, pepper and salt to taste. Cut meat in small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in the spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Put into potting-pots and cover with clarified butter, about one-fourth inch in thickness ; and if to be kept for some time, tie over a buttered paper, or cloth cover and then one of oil-cloth. Two or three slices of ham, minced and pounded Avith the above ingredients, will be found an improvement. Keep in a dry place . Pressed Chicken. — Take one or two chickens, boil in small quantity of water with a little salt, and when thoroughly done, take all meat from bones, removing skin, and keeping the light meat separate from the dark ; chop and season to taste with salt and pep- per. If a meat presser is at hand take it, or any other mold or a crock or pan will do ; put in a layer of light and a laj^er of dark meat till all is used, add the liquor it was boiled in, which should be about one cup, and put on a heavy weight until cold ; when cold cut in slices. Prepare the day before it is wanted and keep in cool place. Afany chop all the meat together, add one pounded cracker to the liquor it was ])oiled in, and mix all thoroughly before putting in mold ; either way is nice. Some add half as much chopped ham as chicken and hard-boiled eggs maybe molded with it as in Jellied Chicken. Celei:}^ to])s are a nice garnish or sprigs of parsley. Pressed Turkey is prepared same way, slicing instead of chopping. Either of the above makes very fine sandwiches. Roast Chicken. — After cleaning, stuff and truss a six pound chicken as directed in preface, using for the filling, pint and a half dry ])read-crumbs, four tablespoons warm milk, half cup butter, level tablespoon salt, teaspoon each chopj^ed parsley, white pepper, and summer savory, half teaspoon each poAvdered sage and mar- ioram nnd yolk of an egg, mixed well together. Or omit egg and milk and use half pint butter, melted. Place chicken on its side on trivet, in pan in hot oven and baste every ten or fifteen minutes with a little water and butter. When half done, season with salt and continue to dredge, baste and froth as in Larded Turkey. When done, dish and make a Giblet Gravy as directed. Some add a little 702 rf)L-LTRY. hot water at first, others when half done. Or for a French Roasts dredge with salt, rul> over thickly with soft butter, then dredge very thoroughly with flour ; place on the trivet and in ten minutes add a little hot water to pan ; baste and finish as above. Serve when nicely l>rowned and frothed, with Gil)let Gravy. It is claimed that the rich paste of butter and tlour keeps in the juices, giving a fine flavored roast, and that it is really more economical, less butter be- ing required than when simply basted with melted l)Utter. Or roast and baste as in first recipe, and when tender, season and spread over a smooth paste of two tablespoons butter and four of Hour and serve when nicely browned without more basting. Or for a more elaborate dish stuff and truss, then lard as directed in preface and roast as above, basting with the drippings, using butter and flour with which to froth it nicely at the last. Or bone the chicken as directed in Cutting and Curing Meats, leaving in the leg and wing bones, and tardea chicken, stuff with bread-dressing or any force-meat, then sew in shape truss- ing the wings and legs close to the back; lard and roast as above. This makes a nice dish to serve, as being boneless, is easily carved across in handsome slices. Veal Force-meat is delicious with this. Smothered Chichen. — Cut up chicken in seven or nine pieces ;ind |)ut in dripping-pan in pint boiling water, sprinkle with salt, ])e)tper. Hour, and dot with bits of butter; cover closely with an- other pan and bake tvro hours in moderate oven. If the chicken is very tender, less time will do ; if tough more is necessary. When tender, take the fowl from the pan and keep hot till ready to serve. ]\[ake a gravy from what is left in the pan ; if there is much fat, pour it off and add enougli flour rubbed smooth in a little water to thicken. Or, split the chicken down the back as for broiling, lay inside down in baking pan, add Avater and cover as above; then l)ak<' forty minutes, when baste freely with butter and a little of the gravy or dri{)piiigs from fowls. In ten minutes baste again with gravy from the pan, and in five more, with melted butter, (lip))ing it ])lentii'ully all over the fowls, which should now begin to brown. Season with salt and increase heat, still keei)ing chickens covered. A few minutes before dishing test with a fork. When tender serve with Giblet Gravy. Some prepare thus and let cook without ba.st- ing till tender and beginning to broAvn. Then spread over with a ])aste made of two tablesiioons butter and four of flour and baste every ten minutes with drip|)ings in i>an until a rich brown. Serve with a gravy poured over chicken, made by adding milk and thick- ening to drippings in pan. Or With Of/ste7's^ stuff and truss as di- rected, fill the breast with chopped oysters, parsley and bread- crumbs, and stuff" the body with oysters alone, put in a clean tin pail with closely fitting cover, and set in kettle of cold water. Cook slowly for more than an hour after water in outer vessel begins to POULTRY. 703 boil. If the fowl is not young, it may require cooking two hours. Do not open the tin pail in less than an hour. When chicken is tender, take out on hot dish, covering immediately. Turn the gravy into a saucepan, thicken with tablesi)oon corn-starch, and three tablespoons cream, chopped parsley, seasoning to taste, and yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. Boil up once, pour a little over the chicken, and serve the rest in gravy-boat. Steamed Chicken. — Rub chicken on the inside with pepper and half teaspoon salt, place in patent steamer or over a kettle that will keep it as near the water as possible, cover, and steam an hour and a half; when done keep hot while dressing is prepared, then cut them up, arrange on platter, and serve with the dressing over them. The dressing is made as follows : Boil pint gravy from kettle with- out fat, add cayenne pepper and half teaspoon salt ; stir six table- spoons flour into quarter pint cream until smooth, and add to gravy. Corn-starch may be used instead of flour, and some add nutmeg or celery salt. Or stuff", truss, steam and brown as Steamed Turke}^ Stewed Chicken. — Cut up chickens as for frying, place in boil- ing water to cover and stew as directed in preface until tender, add- ing more hot water occasionally as needed. When d»ne, add table- spoon butter mixed with tablespoon flour, stirring it in a little at a time, and season with pepper and salt. Or put the butter in the stew and mix the flour smooth in a little water before adding. A pinch of sugar is an addition to all stews. For a Creoled Stew, cut up a chicken and fry slightly ; then take out pieces of chicken and dredge a little flour into the fat they were fried in ; add sufficient water to make the gravy, and one pound of skinned and cut-up tomatoes, with a medium-sized onion also cut up, and a little chopped parsley, cayenne, and black pepper ; season to taste with salt, and stew until thoroughly incorporated ; put in the chicken with three tablespoons butter, and stew two hours longer ; then put in a pint of well-washed rice and stew another hour. Serve with the gravy poured over. Instead of frying, some stew the chickens until ten- der with the onion and a slice of broiled ham ; then take out and prepare other ingredients as above, omitting the rice, and serving with a pint of pease, cooked separately, strewn over the dish. For a Brunsvnck Steiv, cut up a chicken and boil four onions in a quart water with two or three slices fat bacon cut in small pieces ; then add half pint each ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut fine, butter or lima beans, parboiled, and sweet-corn, teaspoon each pepper and sugar, butter size of hen's egg and salt to taste. Stew all together gently for an hour, take out all bones and serve hot, adding a little thickening if necessary. Squirrels are nice stewed same way. The bacon may be omitted if not liked. Serve chicken in center of dish and vegetables around. For a German Steto, c\ea,n, stuif and truss a pair of chickens, as for roasting and dredge Avell with salt. 704 POULTRY. pepper and flour. Cut a quarter pound pork in slices, and put part on bottom of a deep stewpan "with two slices of carrot and an onion, cut fine. Stir over fire until slightly browned, put in the chickens, hiv remainder of pork over them, and place in hot oven for twenty minutes; then add white stock to half cover the chicken (about two ([uarts), and a bunch sweet herbs. Dredge well Mith tlour, cover pan and return to oven. Baste every fifteen minutes, and after cooking an hour, turn the chicken, and cook two hours in all. Serve with the gravy in which chickens were cooked, strained over them. Prepare Curried Chicken by cutting up as above and put in stew- pan with little boiling water, put on tight cover and simmer twenty minutes. Take out chicken and put in some thin pieces of salt \)ork and two sliced onions. In a few minutes remove pork, re- place the chicken, mix a teaspoon of curry-powder, gently through the grav}', add cup each rice, and fresh grated cocoanut and boil all together until tender. Or truss whole, put slices of pork in kettle, then the chicken, cover, and cook till beginning to be tender; then add cu]) of well-washed rice, cook till tender adding hot water as needed. Dish chicken, keep hot and add heaping teaspoon curry- powder to rice, stir gently and place on platter with chicken in center. TruMed Chicken. — Bone one chicken, cut off the fillets or white meat of two more and lay them all side by side on the table. Cut a half pound fat salt pork in thin strips, score gashes in thick parts of the chicken and lay in the strips, cut up a large can of truffles and arrange the pieces evenly where they will show the black spots in the white meat when chicken is sliced. Dredge well with salt and white pepper, a little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay the chicken breasts in the thin places of the boned fowl, bring the two sides together and sew up the fowl into nearly its original shape. Roll in a floured cloth, tie and pin it, and boil two hours in salted l)roth. Press it while cooling. Take off cloth w^hen cold, draw out th'-ead from fowl and serve either incased in Aspic Jelly, or coated with glaze, or slice and arrange nicely on a dish. Chicken Croquettes. — Boil two fowls weighing five pounds each till very tender, mince fine, add pint cream, half pint butter, salt and pepper to taste; make in oval shapes and fry like fritters. Chicken Cutlets. — Cut off" legs of a chicken with all the moat that can be obtained by cutting close to the body, and also the breast meat attached. This will give four pieces of chicken Avith a bone in each one which must be scraped up like cutlet bone with plenty of meat at the end of it, the same as a lamb chop. The leg cutlets consist of drumstick and second joint ; the others have the fillet or breast and the wing bone. Chop off the knob ends. The bone of second joint should be loosened from meat, all meat pushed to one side of it, and the bone pushed through a hole made in edge POULTRY. 705 of meat — to make it look like a lamb chop — and the ends of bones should be scraped clean for about an inch. When all are prepared, parboil by dropping the cutlets in boiling water or broth well season- ed, or they lose their shape. When they have boiled five min- utes lay them flat on dish or pan, put other dish and a heavy Aveight on top and let them get quite cold. After that trim and shape them neatly. Single-bread each cutlet, using cracker-dust, and fry in lard or butter in frying-pan. Or they may be Larded as directed, and cooked as above without breading. Or for French Cutlets, cut cold boiled fowl into as many nice cutlets as possible ; take corr(Tspond- ing number of croutons of bread, about same size, all cut one shape ; fry a pale brown and put them in oven to keep hot ; then dip cut- lets into clarified butter mixed with yolk of an egg, cover with bread- crumbs, seasoned with finely minced lemon peel, mace, salt and cayenne; fry about five minutes, put each piece on one of the croutons, pile them high in dish, and serve with the following sauce, which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put two tablespoons butter into a stewpan, add two minced shalots, a few slices of car- rot, bunch sweet herbs, blade pounded mace, and six pepper-corns ; fry ten minutes or more ; pour in half pint good gravy, made of the chicken bones, stew gently for twenty minutes, strain and serve. Two tablespoons mushroom catsup and a beaten egg may be addec] to the gravy. Cutlets of any fowl are prepared same way. Chichsn Essence. — Take the legs and wings of six chickens and break the bones ; put in pan with two pounds fillet of veal cut in four or five pieces. Add three quarts chicken broth, and medium- sized carrot well cleansed and scraped, two onions (one of them stuck with two cloves), and bunch sweet herbs. Boil up, skim, and then simmer till meat is perfectly done. Strain through a cloth, remove ■all fat, and put it aside for use. Chicken Fillets. — The fillets are the pieces on each side of the breast bone. For cutting see Cutting and Curing Meats. They are nice larded with fine strips of fat salt pork, then single-breaded and fried and served on hot dish with spoonful Tartare Sauce on each. These are called Breaded Fillets. Or they may be pounded lightly with the potato masher to flatten them, seasoned with pepper and salt, dredged well with flour and fried in two tablespoons butter about twenty minutes, or until a nice brown on both sides. Make a gravy by adding a cup and half milk to fat in pan, with tablespoon flour and seasoning to taste. Serve the Fried Fillets resting against a mound of mashed potatoes or green pease with the gravy poured round, and all very hot. For Braised, Fillets, lard as above, put dn pan with thin slice of pork and an onion and cook slowly half an hour. Then add pint stock or water and bones of chicken, cover and cook in moderate oven basting frequently with the gravy. Take up and drain the fillets, dip in melted butter, dredge lightly with 706 POULTRY. flour and broil till light brown. Serve on a hot dish with the gravy fiom pan thickened and poured around, or on a mound of mashed potato with garnish of parsley. Fillets of any fowl cooked same Cfiicken Fricassee. — Cut up and put on to boil, skin side down, in small quantity of boiling water, season with salt, pepper, and slices of onion if liked ; stew gently until tender, remove chicken, add half pint cream or milk to gravy, and thicken with butter and flour rub- bed smoothly together (adding a little of the gravy to soften and help mix them), let boil two or three minutes, add a little chopped parsley and a beaten egg or two, if wanted very rich and serve. Or first fry the chicken brown in a little hot lard, take out chicken, add a tablespoon flour, and let cook a minute, stirring constantly ; add a pint water (or stock if at hand), a little vinegar or Worcestershire sauce, season with salt and pepper ; when it has boiled, remove from Are, strain, add the beaten yolk of an egg. pour over the chicken and serve. Or, put chicken in saucepan withbarel}' enough water to cover, stew gently until tender ; have a frying-pan prepared witli a few slices of salt pork, drain chicken and fry with pork until it is a flne, rich brown ; take chicken and bits of pork from the ])an, pour in the broth, thicken with broAvned flour, mixed smooth with a little water, and season with pepper, and a little nutmeg if flavor is liked ; now put chicken and pork back into gravy, let simmer a few minutes, and serve very hot on slices of buttered toast, or hot bak- ing-powder biscuit, split in two. Or add enough hot water to pan chicken was cooked in to boil dumplings, and serve them around platter. Some like the flavor of part of a head of celery boiled with the chicken, or parsley and a blade of yiace, and oysters are some- limes added, boiling up once before dishing. Or cook the chicken until tender with a small carrot, pared and left whole, and one dozen small onions, peeled ; then take up and keep hot while gravy is nuule ; strain out vegetables, and _^. ^ „ . let broth boil ; mix tablesi)oon butter and Chicken Fncaasee. , ^ ' ' -, two ol flour together over the hre until a smooth paste ; then gradually add a pint and a half of the broth, stirring the gravy with an egg whip until quite smooth ; season to taste with salt and pepper, and dish on hot platter ; a half can mush- rooms greatly improves tlie flavor. In serving an}' of above ways, arrange pieces as nearly as possible to simulate a whole chicken, and garnish with tufts of parsley or tender inside heads of lettuce. Chicken Patties. — Pick meat from one or two boiled chickens, cut into long strips and then across into small dice. Put in sauce- pan, season with white pepper or cayenne, a grating of nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, salt and tablespoon butter. Pour over it a pint white sauce to each pint chicken, gently simmer at l)ack of range or on a brick on top of range till time to serve ; then li] \ heatetl POULTRY. 707 Patty Shells with it. Or add to the diced meat from one chicken a cup each cream and the broth it was cooked in, butter size of egg mixed with tablespoon flour and simmer gently until it begins to thicken ; add beaten yolks of two eggs, pepper, salt, little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, and just before serving the juice of a lemon. Fill shells. Chicken Gems. — Pound or chop fine any cold chicken, add same amount of bread-crumbs soaked soft in milk, two eggs, salt and pepper, chopped parsley, and a spoonful of butter ; mix, put in buttered gem pans, bake twenty minutes. Eat with Caper Sauce or green salad, l^ish Gems are nice made same way. Chicken Pie. — Cut up two young chickens in nine pieces, place in boiling water enough to cover, and as it boils away add more so as to have enough for the pie and for gravy to serve with it, boil un- til tender, skimming well ; line sides of a four or six-quart pan with a rich baking-powder or soda-biscuit dough, or Quaker Paste, quar- ter of an inch thick, put in part of chicken, after removing breast- bone, pointing each piece toward the center, so as to interfere as little as possible in the serving ; season with salt, pepper, and but- ter, lay in a few thin strips or squares of dough, add the rest of chicken and season as before ; some add layers of five or six sliced, hard-boiled eggs ; season liquor in which the chickens were boiled, with butter, salt and pepper, add a part of it to the pie, cover with crust a quarter of an inch thick, pinch edges well together and cut a hole in center size of a tea-cup. Keep adding chicken liquor as needed, since the fault of most chicken pies is that they are too dry. There can scarcely be too much gravy. Bake an hour in a moder- ate oven, and just before it is done, brush the top with Pastry Glaze. To make gravy, add to liquor left in pot, if not enough add hot water or milk, a tablespoon or two of butter mixed to a paste with flour, and seasoned Avith pepper and salt. This should be stirted, a little at a time, into the liquor ; let boil up once and serve, straining if at all lumpy. Some boil with the chicken a half pound lean salt pork cut in strips and add it to the pie. Or With Potatoes, four or five potatoes may be put in with the chicken when stewing, before it is quite done, with a seasoning of salt ; then put alternate layers of chicken and sliced potatoes, in the pan or dish, with the bits of dough, and finish as above. If new potatoes are used they do not need to be first cooked. A little chopped parsley or celery improves the pie, and always add a l)inch of sugar. Some put in a pint of sweet cream just before the pie is done, let cook a minute and serve. Or With Oysters., boil chicken until tender, drain off" liquor ciosednoM. from a quart of oysters, boil, skim, line the sides of a dish with a rich crust, put in a layer of chicken, then a layer of raw oysters, and 708 POULTRY. repeat until dish is filled, seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, and bits of butter, and adding the oyster liquor and a part of the chicken liquor until the liquid is even with top layer ; cover loosely with a crust.and tinish as above. If liquor cooks away, add chicken gravy or hot water. When Opened, gomc Huc bottom of dish with crust, put in oven till partially baked, then line the sides, fill, cover, and bake ; it is always difiicult to bake the crust on the ])ottoni of dish unless this plan is adopted. A better plan is without bottom crust as above. Elaborate molds are made for pies, such as the closed mold given ; the crust being placed in it after it is buttered, and then pressed well into the chicken pic. indentations ; fill and cover as above. When done, take out the wires fastening the sides together, and remove pie to a hot l)latter, and serve p,t once. Meat or Game Pies can be made as any of above. For Giblet Pie, clean and put a set duck or goose giblets into stewpan with an onion, half teaspoon whole pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; add rather more than a pint water, and sim- mer gently for about one and a half hours. Take out, let cool, and cut into pieces; line bottom of a pie pan with a fev/ pieces of rump steak, add a layer of giblets and a few more pieces of steak ; season with pepper and salt, and pour in strained gravy from the giblets ; cover with a Short Paste (see Pastry^, and bake for rather more than one and a half hours in a brisk oven. Cover a piece of paper over pie, to prevent too much browning of crust. For another Panned Pie, chop pieces of roast, or any cold chicken in about half-inch dice, add any bits of dressing and moisten with gravy, if any, adding hot water as needed ; stew till well heated, season, and place in pie })an lined with a plain paste, cover with a Puff Paste and bake. A little Chilli Sauce or any chopped pickle may be added. Chicken Pot-jne. — Cut up chicken, put in enough boiling water to cover, and take care that it does not cook dry ; Avhile cooking, cut off a slice from bread dough, add a small piece lard or butter and mix up like light biscuit, roll, cut with biscuit-cwtter and set by stove to rise ; wash and pare potatoes of moderate size, and add them when chicken is almost done ; when potatoes begin to boil, season with salt and pei)]M'r, put in dumplings, first adding a cup of cold water or milk, to lessen the temperature of water, that the dumplings may rise lighter, and season again, addiiijir a pinch sugar. See that there is water enough to keej) from burning, cover very tightly, and do not take cover oft" until dumplings are done. They will cook in half an hour, and may be tested by lifting one edge of tbe lid, taking out a duini)ling and breaking it open. Or, the dump- lings may be jilaced in steamer over cold water, and if not in a pat- ent steamer, be careful to leave some of the holes in steamer open, as if all are covered by the dumplings, the steam will not be admit- ted, and they will not cook well. If there are too many dumplings POULTRY. 709 to lie on bottom without covering all holes, attach them to side and upper edge of steamer by wetting dough and pressing to the edge. When done remove to platter around the chicken and pour hot gravy over them. Dish potatoes by themselves. Make gravy as for Chicken Pie, adding more boiling water if needed. Or, make dump- lings with one pint sour milk, two well-beaten eggs, half teaspoon soda (mixed in part of the flour), and flour enough to make as stiff" as can be stirred with a spoon ; or baking powder and sw^eet milk may be used. Drop in by spoonfuls, cover tightly, and boil as above, or pinch off" balls from baking-powder dough and add, A pot-pie may be made from a good boiling piece of beef; if too much grease arises skim off". Cut out diamond-shaped pieces from some of the dough, and bake in oven, with which to garnish the pot-pie when served. Another way of making is to grease a deep pot with lard, roll out enough plain crust to line it, cutting out the bottom ; as the pieces of chicken are put in, strew in flour, salt and pepper, a few pieces of crust rolled thin, and a few parboiled and sliced po- tatoes ; cover this with water, and then with paste with a slit in the middle. Cook slowly two hours, adding hot water if necessary. Veal and Lamb may be made in same way. Some leave the lining whole, cut out two or three rounds of paste or dough a little smaller than the kettle and put in with layers of chicken and season- ing at bottom and between, adding a half cup water before putting on top crust, and bake in moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve turned out on a dish with sauce-boat of gravy made as for Chicken Pie. Another way of preparing is to cook the chicken in three pints water ; first cooking tablespoon butter, a large onion and three slices each carrot and turnip, all cut fine, half an hour, stir- ring constantly, then pulp them through a colander into the kettle with the chicken. Stir three tablespoons flour, with two of chicken fat, in pan in which vegetables were fried, until brown and add to chicken ; season well with pepper and salt and stew gently two hours. Fifteen minutes before serving drop in some dumplings and place kettle where it will cook rapidly. Dish chicken in center of platter and dumplings around, serving gravy in sauce-boat. Chicken Pudding. — Dress and cut one chicken into small pieces, put in saucepan or kettle with a little water, let boil until it begins to grow tender, then take out and put into a three-quart pudding dish, season with salt and pepper ; have ready one quart green corn grated or cut fine, to which add three eggs beaten light and one pint sweet milk ; season with salt and pepper, and pour this mixture over the chicken, dredge thickly with flour, lay on bits of butter and bake until done. Or make a smooth batter of a pound flour, tea- spoon salt, quart milk, and six well-beaten eggs ; butter an earthen dish, and put the chicken and batter into it in layers, with batter at the bottom and top, and bake the pudding until brown in a moder- ate oven. When pudding is nearly done, heat the broth in which i 10 POULTRY. chicken was stewed, season to taste, draw to back of range where it will not boil, and stir into it enough beaten eggs to thicken, and serve at once with the pudding. Or soak a cup bread-crumbs in cup boiling milk in which a pinch of soda has been dissolved, and beat very light ; let cool while mincing cold chicken and a slice of boiled ham very fine ; mix the meat with the bread-crumbs, season with pepper and salt and tablespoon butter, add two well-beaten eggs, beat all up well, turn into well-buttered baking dish and bake in brisk oven. When it puffs up a light, delicate brown send at once to table in dish in which it is baked. If fiuvor is liked, boil half an onion in the milk, skimming out before pouring over bread- crumbs. Always add a pinch of sugar to either of above puddings. Chicken Quenelles. — Mix a tablespoon chopped salt pork with the chopped and pounded meat from one chicken, which may first be cooked or not, but must be skinned ; rub both through a coarse sieve. Cook a cup bread-crumbs with cup milk until smooth, stir- ring constantly, and add the sifted meat with half cup cream or white stock, seasoning of salt and white pepper and a little nutmeg or mace, and pinch of sugar with beaten yolks of three eggs, adding whipped whites last. Mix all thoroughly together and shape the quenelles with two tablespoons, first dipping one in hot water, fill- ing with the mixture, then turning it into the other spoon, which has also been dipped in hot water. Put the quenelles as fast as made into a buttered saucepan and when all are done pour over them enough boiling stock to cover, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Take up, drain, and serve on rounds of toasted or fried bread or mashed potatoes, arranged as a border, with Mushroom or Bechamel Sauce in center and a spoonful on each. Or after the quenelles are cooked let them get cold, single-bread them, fry as croquettes, and serve with fried parsley or any sauce liked. Chiclxen Turn-overs. — Roll out Puff Paste, and cut with around tin cutter ; chop some cooked chicken with half as much cliopped ham ; moisten with a little cream and add grated rind of a lemon and pinch cayenne ; lay a spoonful of mixture on half of every cir- cle, turn the other half over it, press edges closely together, and drop into hot lard, as in fritters. Serve, piled on a small platter. Nutmeg may be substituted for the lemon peel, and make Turkey and Veal Turn-overs in same way. Chicken Vanity. — Stir a pint cooked and finely chopped chicken and teaspoon each chopped parsley and lemon juice with seasoning of white pepper and salt into a pint boiling White Sauce. Cook two minutes, add yolks of four eggs, well beaten, and set away to cool ; when cold, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into buttered dish, bake half an hour, and serve the moment it i.s done with Mushroom or White Sauce. The meat of any fowl or veal, may be used. POULTRY. 711 Chicken With Asparagus. — Cut two chickens in seven pieces each, leaving the breast and breast-bone entire. Cook all but latter in four quarts boiling water ; when commencing to be tender put in the breast and when done, take out and let cool. The meat, except the breasts, can be used for Chicken Salad or any dish wished. Take the breasts when cold, or when ready to use, cut carefully from the bone and trim neatly, cutting in two or more pieces ; make hot in a little chicken broth, kept from stewing the chickens, place on platter and pour over a Magical Sauce made as follows : Add to the chicken liquor, a few slices of carrots and parsnips, and a stalk of celery and a very little onion ; when well-flavored with the vegetables, strain through the crash towel kept for straining soups, etc., and place the broth in a saucepan, add two tablespoons each flour and butter, stirred together over the fire, but not browned ; let this cook slowly till reduced to a quart, then add liquor from a can of mushrooms, and again reduce to less than a quart ; beat in a tablespoon butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, pinch of sugar and cayenne, and cup of boiled cream, a little at a time, just before serv- ing, making it of the consistency required, and then pass it through a fine strainer. After pouring it over the breasts of chicken, dot it here and there with the asparagus heads cooked in a little Avater till tender and then fried a moment or two in a little butter. The great beauty of the dish, with sauce looking as glossy as white satin, just thin enough to settle down smooth, yet too thick to run off the meat, and spotted all over the surface with the green heads and bordered with the same, well repays one for the trouble, and it is as delicious as it is elegant. Chicken Livers With Bacon. — Cut livers in rounds an inch and a half in diameter, and have thin slices of bacon cut half the size. Nearly fill a small wire skewer with these, alternating. Place Q_-. in frying basket and plunge into smoking-hot fat for a ^ minute or two. Serve on the skewers, or on toast, with thin slices of lemon for a garnish. Or, skewers can be rested on sides of a narrow baking pan and placed in a hot oven for five minutes. Serve as before. The livers of all other kinds of poultry can be cooked same. Cantons de Rouen. — Cut off bone of leg about an inch from joint, giving a large sweep of skin. Take bone out of leg without breaking the skin ; make a dressing of one half cup bread, soaked, squeezed and seasoned witli salt, pepper and any herb except sage. Stuff leg with this, sew up and trim in shape, as near like little ducks as possible. Place in pan upon a bed of vegetables, (slices of turnips, carrots, onions, bay leaf, and two or three slices salt pork), or baste with a little butter, and bake one half hour. Chilli Colorad. — Cut up two chickens and stew ; when pretty well done, add a little green parsley and a few onions. Take half 712 POULTRY. pound large pepper pods, remove seeds, and pour on boiling water ; steam ten or fifteen minutes ; pour off water, and rub them in a sieve until all the juice is out ; add the juice to the chicken ; cook half an hour, and add a little butter, flour and salt. Garnish with a border of rice around the dish. This may also be made of beef, pork or mutton ; it is to be eaten in cold weather, and is a favorite with all people on the Pacific coast. Grilled Fowl. — Cut the legs and second joints from two cold roast or boiled fowls ; score them closely, season with pepper and salt, and keep to broil. Mince the rest of the meat fine. Make a White Sauce (see Sauces), seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg ; add the minced fowl, and heat ; broil the legs and thighs, dish the mince on hot platter, lay them on it, and serve hot. Before broil- ing the legs some "devil" them by first scoring deeply, cutting par- allel strips right down to the bone and insert in these a mixture of French mustard and cayenne pepper with a blunt knife, covering the leg all over well with the mixture. A teaspoon each vinegar, Harvey or Worcestershire sauce and mustard, and tablespoon salad oil or melted butter, mixed till like cream, is also nice for preparing a Deviled Fowl as above. The grill may be served with Mephisto- 2)helian Sauce, especially designed for deviled meats. Chop six shallots or small onions, wash, and press in corner of a clean cloth, put in saucepan with two tablespoons chilli vinegar or pepper sauce, a chopped clove of garlic, two bay leaves, an ounce of glaze and a pinch cayenne ; boil all together ten minutes ; then add five table- spoons Tomato Sauce, a pinch of sugar, and nine of broth, made from the turkey bones or water thickened with roux, and some add a little anchovy butter. Deviled Meat of any kind made and served same. Or when the mince is not made, serve in hot disli with a tablespoon melted butter, in bottom, thickly sprinkled with chopped parsley. Or for Braised Leg of Fowl loith Tongue, braise the legs cut as above, as directed in Brais- ed Meat, and boil a tongue according to recipe given in Meats. Have pre- pared a mold of boiled rice ; place on Bta.\i«i Leg or ko«i wuh Tongue. platter, surround with the braised legs, then garnish all with slices of cold tongue. Hea]> on top of rice. Aspic Jelly cut in dice, made from the bones of fowl and place slices of pickled beet with it. Roast Duck. — Ducks are dressed and stuffed same as turkeys. Young ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes ; full- grown for an hour or more with frequent basting. Some prefer them underdone, served very hot, but thorough cooking will prove more generally palatable. Serve withcurrant jelly, apple sauce, and POULTRY. 713 green pease. If old, parboil before roasting. Either the Onion or Rice Force-meat given in Force-meats is very nice for stuffing roast ducks, though any preferred may be used. Some core small sour apples without peeling and bake them in the pan with the duck, basting both every five minutes after the first half hour until done. Then serve apples round the duck as a garnish. Stewed Duck. — Cut the duck in small joints ; peel and chop a small onion, and fry with a tablespoon butter until it begins to brown ; then put in duck and brown that ; then add a heaping table- spoon flour, and stir all until the flour is brown ; cover with boil- ing water, season with salt and pepper, and stew gently until tender ; add tablespoon chopped parsley and serve hot. Or With Cabbage, slice and put in saucepan with tablespoon each butter and vinegar, and dozen each whole cloves and pepper-corns and teaspoon salt,cover and place where it will cook slowly. Cut cold roast duck in two-inch pieces and broAvn them in tablespoon butter, seasoning highly with pepper and salt ; then put in saucepan on top of cabbage and cook until the latter is tender ; turn it out on hot dish and serve the pieces of duck neatly arranged on the cabbage. Or it is nice With (Jar- rots. Boil the carrots till soft, let drain, and put in stewpan with enough butter to fry nicely. While frying add a gill good clear gravy (soup will do), lump of sugar, pinch or two of salt, and rub them through a sieve ; then reheat, stirring well. Warm up the pieces of cold duck meanwhile in gravy, and lay them on the puree of carrots. Or, if liked With Pease, place the remains of cold roast duck in stewpan with pint gravy and a little sage, cover closely, and let simmer half an hour ; add a pint of boiled green pease, stew a few minutes, remove to dish, and pour gravy and pease over it, Roast Goose. — The goose should not be more than eight months, -old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the meat. A "green'' goose (four months old) is the choicest. Kill at least twenty-four hours before cooking ; cut the neck close to the back, beat the breast- bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and legs securely, season inside with pepper and salt, and stufi" or not as liked, with the fol- lowing mixture : Three pints bread-crumbs, six ounces butter or part butter and part salt pork, two chopped onions, one teaspoon each sage, black pepper and salt. Do not stufi" very full, and stitch openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out. If the goose is not fat, lard it with salt pork, or tie a slice on the breast. Place in baking pan with little water, and baste frequently with salt and water (some add onion and little vinegar,) turning often so that the sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly done baste with butter and dredge with flour. Bake two hours, or more if old ; some parboil before roasting ; when done take from pan, pour ofi" fat, and make a Giblet Gravy. Apple, Goosberry or Onion Sauce and currant jelly are proper accompaniments to roast goose. 714 POULTRY. Boiled Turkey. — Prepare turkey as directed ; fill with a dress- ing of bread and butter, moistened with milk and seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, and mixed with a pint of raw 03'sters ; sew up and truss as in preface, place in boiling water Avith the breast down- ward, skim often and boil as directed iu prelace, about three hours, if a seven or eight pound turkey, seasoning with salt when half done. Do not cook till skin breaks ; serve with Oyster Sauce. Or With Celery, chop very fine six stalks nicely-blanched celery and add to the bread dressing as given in Steamed Turkey or to the above. Or cut the celery in third of an inch pieces, season with salt and a pinch of cayenne and fill turkey with it ; then sew and truss as above. Serve with Celery Sauce, or stir together in saucepan two tablespoons each flour and butter, when smooth add a quart of the turkey broth, season and add the chopped giblets, having cooked them with the turkey, as more water is required with it than with chicken. Celery may be added to this sauce, letting cook till ten- der, or oysters, when simply boil up once and serve. Or With Macaroni, boil latter ten or fifteen minutes in water seasoned with salt and pepper, and use for stuffing. Serve with plain boiled maca- roni, and an Egg or Bechamel Sauce. Or stuff with any force-meat liked, see Force-meats. Boiled Chicken may be prepared as any of the above ; or truss and boil without stuffing and when done cut up and lay in a hot dish, cover with macaroni cooked as above, with the addition of an onion, and over that grate a quarter pound Parmesan, or any dry cheese ; then brown in oven or with sala- mander. Tlice inay be used instead of Macaroni. Or With Pork, boil a piece of lean salt poik three hours, then put in ft)wl tied in a Avhite cotton cloth, wet in cold water and dredged thickly with Hour. Some always tie in the floured cloth when boiling a stuffed turkc}' or chicken. And for a White-hoiled FoivJ, first cover l)reast Avith slices of lemon, and put over these a sheet of buttered paper, then tie in the floured cloth; place in boiling water and simmer gently as directed, remembering that simmering, instead of boiling, a chicken or turkey, prepared in any of above ways, makes them plumper and whiter. Always truss very hrmly, as they are more apt to loose their shape than in roasting. In serving some prefer to j)our some of the sauce over the fowl, putting the rest in sauce- l)oat. Besides the sauces mentioned above, Parsley, Lemon and Mushroom may be used, and Bice Sauce is very nice ; to make, simmer quarter pound rice in pint milk. Season Avith onion as for Bread Sauce. When tender, strain and boil till thick, and a Bice Dressing may also be used for filling, made as foUoAvs ; boil three quarters of a gill of rice in salted Avater till tender, but grains not broken ; mix Avith a cup cold veal or anA' cold meat, or slice or tAVo of salt pork and three or four onions, all chopped fine ; season with salt and pei)per and a pinch of cayenne and sugar; fry slightly iu POULTRY. 715 frying-pan with butter size of an egg. This is a nice stuffing for tame Roast Ducks. Boned Turkey. — Complete directions for Boning will be found in Cutting and Curing Meats, which see ; only the different methods of cooking the fowl after it is boned are given here. Always Aveigh the fowl before boning, and allow two-thirds weight for force-meat, which is usually made of fresh veal and chicken, chopped fine, or veal and pork, or sausage meat. For each pound force-ineat take a level teaspoon each powdered cloves, powdered allspice and salt, saltspoon each pepper and mace, one raw egg and juice of a lemon ; }nix thoroughly. Place the fowl, skin down on a board, put layer of stuffing on it about half an inch thick, on that put two strips salt pork, about three inches long and half inch wide, and the liver of fowl ; then another la3^er of stuffing, then the little white pieces cut off by the breast-bone, when boning the turkey, and about a half can of mushrooms. Now draw the fowl together, sew vent and neck first then sew up the back. If wished, two or three truffles may be added. After _ fowl is sewed up, roll it in a clean cloth, large Turkey oeiantin enough to have about one-quarter yard to spare at each end ; tie up very tightly so as to keep in shape, with three or four strips of In-oad tape, or as illustrated. Weigh after it is tied, and put carcass or bones, after drawing and cleaning into as many quarts cold water as pounds the fowl Aveighs, and when at boil- ing point, skim as for clear soup. "When no more scum rises add a carrot, an onion stuck with a dozen cloves, a turnip, a bunch of herbs, parsley, bay leaf, blade of mace, and any herb except sage, and a few pepper-corns tied well together. Put in turkey and boil a half hour to the pound, adding more hot water, as needed. When done, take out, letting the broth drain fron\ it into the pof; strain the stock through a folded towel laid in a col- ander set in earthen bowl. Some let the turkey remain in broth till it is cold. Unroll from cloth, wash cloth in hot water-, then in cold, using no soap, and Avrap chicken up again, tying as at first, and put on platter ; turn another platter over it, place a heavy Aveight on this and press till cold, or overnight if possible. Make an Aspic Jelly to serve with the turkey by first removing fat from the broth in Avhich it Avas boiled, and to each quart broth or stock take white and shell of one egg and tablespoon cold water ; put in saucepan and add the broth or stock Avith tAvo packages or four ounces gelatine (this Avill harden three pints of stock). Stir until gelatine is dis- solved and the stock looks clear, under the egg which should harden and float on top. Then strain through a double towel Avrung out of hot Avater and placed oA^er a bowl. After being strained half of the jelly may be colored with Caramel Coloring and different shades giA^en according to quantity of coloring used ; turn into different molds to cool and after the turkey has been pressed overnight un- 716 POULTRY. roll, slice and garnish, with the different shades of jelly cut in fancy shapes. Or place the whole Turkey Galantine^ as it is sometimes called, on a platter and pour the jelly when partially cooled over it ; when cold serve attahle garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. Another method of stuffing is to have ready two pounds sausage meat well seasoned, two pounds boiled ham, a beef tongue, half dozen sheep's tongues, boiled ; pound and a half salted pork, half pound sliced truffles, and the meat of two boiled chickens free from bones and skin. Cut the meat in strips four inches long and one broad and quarter of an inch thick. Spread the boned fowl on table, salt and pepper well, then fill Avith the cut up meats, etc., alternating so as to form layers of different colors. When filled give the whole a good round shape, bring the two sides together, sew up, wrap and tie in a cloth as above, and put in a kettle large enough to allow water to cover well ; add bones and giblets, two calf's feet, a small piece of lean beef, parsley, little thyme, two cloves of garlic, pepper, one carrot, half turnip and salt. Boil gently three hours, skimming well. Take from kettle, remove cloth, wash and finish as above. Or after filling with the dressing truss the same as for roasting, retaining its original form as far as possible; and to so do, it is best to leave the leg and Aving bones in Avhen bon- ing, for directions for which see Cutting and Curing Meats. Then tie the fowl firmly in a strong piece of cotton cloth, as in Boiled Turkey, drawing it very tight at the legs, as this is the broadest part and the shape Avill not be good unless this precaution is taken. kSteam three hours, remove cloth, place on buttered tin in baking- ])an, baste Avell Avith butter, pepper and salt and bake an hour, frothing as directed; Avhen cold remove skcAvers and serve, garnished Avith Aspic Jelly, cooked beets in fancy shapes and jiarsley. Hard-boiled yolks of eggs, oysters, blanched SAveet almonds, chestnuts, pistachio-nuts, veal, garlic, bay leaves, lemon juice and rind, chopped })ickles, anchovies, etc., may be used in the filling. ^\'hen Avell executed a galantine is a very handsome dish and is al- Avays served cold. Larded Turkey. — For cooking in any way a hen turkey a year old is best, Aveighing eight or ten pounds Avhen dressed. Clean, stuff, truss and lard as directed in preface ; place in oven not quite us hot as for roasting meats (if the fire is very hot, lay a piece of brown paper, avcU greased, over the foAvl, to prevent scorching) ; put a tablespoon of butter in bits on the breast ; it Avill melt and run into the dripping-pan, and is used to baste the foAvl as roasting pro- gresses ; baste e\'ery ten minutes, watching the turkey as it begins to broAvn, very carefully, and turning it occasionally to expose all parts alike to the heat ; it should be moist and tender, not in the least scorched, blistered or shriA'eled, till it is a golden broAvn all over. For the first two-thirds of time required for cooking (the rule is tAventy minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer) the POULTRY. 717 basting should keep the surface moistened so that it will not crisp at all ; meantime the oven should be kept closed as much as pos- sible. A long gauntlet glove is a good thing to protect the hand and arm when basting. In turning pan, do it as quickly as possible ; season with two teaspoons salt when half done. In the last third of the time allowed for cooking, dredge with flour by withdrawing the pan partly from the oven (resting the end on the grating which falls down, or on a block of wood or a plain stool of the proper height kept for the purpose), and cover the breast, upper portion and sides thoroughly, using a fine sifter, return pan to oven, and let remain until the flour is well browned, then baste freely with drip- pings from pan, and flour again, repeating flouring and browning, allowing crust to grow crisper each time ; there will probably be time to repeat the process three or four times before finishing. Take care not to wash off flour by basting, always leaving in oven until all flour of last dredging is thoroughly browned. If it is necessary to turn the turkey in the pan, use a towel, and never stick it with a fork^ as it allows the juices to escape. In roasting a large turke}', a liberal allowance of butter for cooking, including gravy for serving in two successive days, is one tea-cup, but less may be used, accord- ing to taste or necessity for economy. Baste with melted butter the last time, then dredge with flour and serve when browned ; the en- tire surface will then be a rich, froth}', brown crust, which breaks off in shells in carving, and makes the most savory of morsels. Keep hot while making the Giblet Gravy. Always be very careful in removing the skewers and strings not to break the crust. Roast Turkey. — Prepare as above omitting the larding, placing "bits of butter or pieces of the fat from the turkey or thin slices of fat pork over the breast of turkey, if wished, and baste and finish as .above. Some have the rule that when little jets of steam burst out from the breast and thick parts the turkey is done. Serve with Cranberry Sauce, and in making, if a little clear jelly is wanted pour off a cup of the clear s^'rup before stirring up the berries, • then mash with a spoon. Sometimes, from motives of economy, the stewed cran- Koast Turkey. bcrrlcs arc mixed with an equal amount of gravy from the turkey pan, making a Fruit Gravy^ Avhich is much liked, prepared in same Avay when cooking game. For English Roast Turkey., kill and hang several daj's before cooking, then stuff with bread dressing, truss, and place to roast on a rack within a dripping-pan ; spread with bits of butter, turn and baste frequently with butter, salt and water. Some use milk instead of water to make '' brown nicely. A few minutes before it is done glaze with the wnite of an egg, or the Pastry Glaze ; dish the turkey and make a Giblet Gravy. Garnish with fried oysters, and serve with Celery Sauce and stewed gooseberries. Or With Chestnuts, prepare turkey 718 POULTRY. and add to an ordinary bread dressing, a dozen or two foreign chest- nuts, first boiled till tender, about half an hour, in salted water or stock, then peeled, and inside skin scraped off. Some first put in oven till skins burst. Or mix cup br<-:id-crumbs with three cups j)ork sausage, seasoning as needed, then add thirty or forty chest- nuts prepared as above. Mix well and fill the turkey. Or fill the l)reast with a Veal Force-meat and the body with prepared chest- nuts without bread, etc. Truss and roast in any of above ways and serve with any sauce wished ; or with Chestnut Sauce, stew dozen roasted chestnuts, peeled, in a pint gravy, season "vvith pepper and salt, and thicken with a piece of l)utter rolled in flour ; boil until smooth. Fry half a dozen sausages, pour the sauce into the dish, place the fowl in it, and the sausages around the fowl ; garnish with lemon cut in thin slices. Or With 6^//5ife?'s, prepare turkey as directed then take a loaf of stale bread, cut off' crust and soften by placing in a pan, pouring on boiling water, draining oti" immediately and cov- ering closely ; crumble the bread fine, add half pint melted butter, or more if to be very rich, and a teaspoon each salt and pepper, or enough to season rather highly ; drain off' liquor from a quart of oysters, bring to a boil, skim and pour over bread-crumbs, adding the soaked crusts and one or two eggs ; mix all thoroughly with the hands, and if rather dry, moisten with a little sweet milk ; lastly, add the oysters, being careful not to break them ; or first put in a spoonful of stuffing, and then three or four oysters, and so on until the turkey is filled ; stuff" the breast first. Truss and spread the turkey over with butter, place in dripping-pan in well-heated oven, add half a pint hot water, and roast till tender, l)asting often with a little water, butter, salt and pepper, kept in a tin for this purpose and placed on back of the stove. The pastry brush or a swab made of a stick with a cloth tied on the end, is better than a spoon with which to baste. Turn, baste, dredge and froth as al)Ove. Some con- sider it nicer to steam the turkey, first rubbing inside with salt and pepper and tying in shape ; when it begins to grow tender, take out, loosen the legs, and rub inside again Avith salt and pepper, and stuff' with above dressing of oysters. When done thus, the openings can not be sewed U|), but a floured cloth must be placed over theni and tied securely with twine. Roast as above. When turkey is dished if there is much fat in the pan, ])our off most of it, add the chopped giblets with the water in which they were cooked, now stewed down to about one pint ; place one or two tablespoons flour (it is better to have half of it browned) in a pint bowl, mix smooth with a little cream, fill up bowl with cream or rich milk and add to the gravy in the pan ; boil several minutes, stirring constantly, and pour in the gravy tureen ; serve with currant or ap]ile jelly. A turkey steamed in this way does not look so well on the "table, but is very tender and palatable. It is an excellent way to cook a large turkey. POULTRY. 719 Steamed Turkey. — After dressing, always plumping by plung- ing in boiling water, etc., as directed, fill with a stuffing as fol- lows, first rubbing inside with salt and pepper ; cut pieces of dry bread and crust, not too brown, off a loaf fully three or four days old, but not moldy ; place crust and pieces in a pan and pour on a very little boiling water, cover tightly with a cloth, let stand until soft, add a tablespoon or two of butter, one or two eggs, and the bread from which the crust was cut, so as not to have it too moist. Mix well with hands and season to taste ; teaspoon or two of sage or mixed preparation of herbs gives a nice flavor. Sew up and truss as directed in preface and steam in patent steamer until beginning to be tender, which will be in from one to three hours, according to size. Then place turkey in dripping-pan with water from pan in which turkey was steamed. A steamer can be improvised by putting turkey in dripping-pan without any water, then })lace that on top of two or three pieces of wood (hickory or maple is best) laid in bot- tom of wash-boiler, with just enough water to cover wood; put on lid, which should fit tightly on boiler, and as water boils away add more, being careful not to put any in pan. When cooked as above, take out dripping-pan and place in oven, with the water in it but not that in boiler. Place upon the turkey, pieces of turkey-fat or butter, season with salt and dredge with flour ; after ten minutes, baste with the drippings and water in pan, always taking from the top, it being richer, then dredge with flour and continue thus as in Larded Turkey till nicely browned and frothed, using melted butter for last basting and letting the last dredging become thoroughly browned before serving. Make a Giblet Gravy as directed, remem- bering if turkey was very fat that the flour will not mingle readily and smoothly until some of the fat is skimmed off; or if a quantity of gravy is wished, add slowly some boiling water till it commences to thicken nicely. Steaming keeps the turkey moist, tender and free from the least scorching, blistering or shriveling ; and as it is only in the oven an hour and sometimes less, one can devote plenty of time to the basting and dredging, which is one of the ''^ Tdvet. most important points in roasting turkey. Having it on a trivet as- sists greatly in turning it to baste and dredge. Some, in making stuffing, try out fat of turkey at a low temperature, and use instead of butter; others use fat of sweet-pickled pork chopped fine (not tried out), with a small quantity of butter, or none at all. Serve Avith Cranberry Sauce. Wild Turkey can be prepared as above or may be cooked like any of the ways given for turkey. Jellied Turkey is made as Jellied Chicken, and a mixture of slices of cold ham, tongue and turkey in the jelly makes a delicious dish. Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread-crumbs with a little milk, butter a pan and put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of chopped (not very fine) cold turkey seasoned with salt and pepper, then a 720 POULTRY. layer of crumbs, and some add a little chopped cold potato, and so on until pan is full. If any dressing or gravy has been left add it. Make a thickening of one or two eggs, half cup milk, and quarter cup each butter and bread-crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; cover with a pan, bake half an hour and then let brown ; or instead of the milk to moisten make a broth from the bones, skimming them out, then thicken a little and pour it over before spreading over the top dressing. Scalloped Chicken made as above. Stewed Turkey. — Simmer the bones and gristle of the turkey with a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion and carrot till a well- flavored broth is obtained ; skim out bones, thicken slightly and add any cold turkey cut in inch or two inch pieces, and any gravy, or season with butter. When heated add cup cold water or milk, then a few baking-powder dumplings, pinched off in little balls ; place where it Avill cook rapidly and serve as soon as dumplings are done. Or omit cold water and dumplings, stir in more thickening if needed and when hot pour over croutons of toasted bread placed on plat- ter. Or for Turkey Pie^ cut pieces in neat slices and heat as above, then skim out and place a layer in baking dish, then a layer of sliced raw potatoes, or they may be parboiled first, then turkey, etc., till dish is almost full ; pour over the broth, cover with a crust as in Chicken Pie and bake in oven. Some do not first heat the turkey. For Turkey Soup^ see Soups. Turkey Croquettes. — Mince cold turkey as fine as possible, season with pepper, salt, a little nutmeg and a very little minced onion. Put a large tablespoon butter and two of flour in saucepan, when mixed add gill cream, let l)oil and stir in the meat. Pour out and when cold take a spoonful of the mixture, form in balls or egg- shapes and single or double-bread and fry as fritters. Some take a little stock, if bones have been used for soup and add only a table- spoon cream, and onion may be omitted. PEESERVES. 721 JPRESEHVES. Preserves, to be perfect, must be made with the greatest care. Ebonomy of time and trouble is a waste of fruit and sugar. The best are made by putting only a small amount of neatly pared fruit at a time in the syrup, after the latter has been carefully prepared and clarified. It is difficult to watch a large quantity so as to insure its being done to a turn. Put peaches, pears, quinces and apples in- to cold water as fast as peeled to prevent their turning dark. The old rule is "a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit;" but since the introduction of cans, three-quarters pound sugar to a pound fruit is sufficient, and even less is sometimes used, the necessity for an ex- cess of sugar having passed away, as preserves may be less sweet, with no risk of fermentation, if sealed. In making either preserves or marmalades, follow the directions as regards kettle, sugar and canning, or putting up in jars, already given in Canning Fruits and Jams and Jellies. Quinces, pears, citrons, water-melon rinds, and many of the smaller fruits, such as cherries, currants, etc., harden when put, at first, into a syrup made of their weight of sugar. To prevent this they should be cooked till tender in water, or in a weak syrup made from a portion of the sugar, adding the remainder after- ward. In preserving fruits, such as apples, peaches, tomatoes, plums and strawberries, and other fruits, which are likely to becom*^ too soft in cooking, it is a good plan to pour the hot syrup over the fruit, or to strew over it a part or all the sugar, and allow it to stand a few hours ; by either method the juice is extracted, and the fruit hardened. Another approved method of making fruit firmer, known as Sun Preserves^ is to skim it out of syrup after cooking a few 722 PRESERVES. minutes, and place in the hot sun two or three hours, place in jars and pour over the boiling syrup ; or boil five minutes, then place in sun one hour, letting syrup cook slowly on back of stove, put in fruit and boil twenty minutes and place in sun another hour, when boil till done and put away as directed. Long protracted boiling destroys the pleasant natural flavor of the fruit, and darkens it. Preserves should boil gently to avoid danger of burning, and in order that sugar may thoroughly penetrate fruit. A good syrup is made in proportion of half pint water to pound sugar. Use loaf or granulated sugar. Put sugar and water over the fire in preserv- ing kettle, and just before it boils stir in white of an egg beaten lightly with two tablespoons water ; as it begins to boil, remove scum with great care; boil until no more scum arises, and then add fruit. Or the white of egg may be mixed thoroughly with the dry sugar in the kettle, and the boiling water poured over, when all ifh. purities will immediately arise to the surface with the egg ; then boil slowly, or rather simmer, until the preserves are clear. Take out each piece with a skimmer and lay on a flat dish to cool, or put in jars at once. Cook the syrup, skimming off" the scum which rises, until it "ropes" from the spoon. If preserves are already in jar pour syrup over them and seal ; if on dishes, return them to syrup and boil up once before putting up. This is merely a matter of choice, and we have never found any difference in the results of the two methods. Preserves ma}' be made from canned fruit (and some prefer to do this rather than m-ake in the hot season), using less sugar than the rule. When preserving canned peaches or ap- ples, it is an improvement to add a few sliced oranges or lemons. AVhen berries or small fruits are done, take up with a little strainer, and place in cans ; if a cup is used, it is impossible to separate them from syrup. Pie-plant can be preserved with any kind of fruit, half and half, and in a short time will taste like the fruit with which it is mixed. When preserves are candied, set jar in kettle of cold water^ and let boil for an hour, or put them in a crock kei)t for that i)ur- pose, set in ovon and boil a few minutes, watching carefully to jire- vent burning. When specks of mold appear, take them off care full}', and scald preserves as above directed. Another method of preserv. ing is to cut the fruit, if large, in slices about one-fifth of an inch thick, strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth of an inch thick on the bottom of a jar, and put the slices on it. Put more sugar on this, PKESERVES. 723 and then another layer of the slices, and so on until the jar is full. Place the jar up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there till sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, remov- ing the scum as it rises. Place a brandied paper over top of fruit, then cover jar closely and keep in a cool place. Marmalades, or diflFerent butters, will be smoother and better flavored, and will re- quire less boiling, if fruit (peaches, quinces, oranges and apples make best) is well cooked and mashed before adding either sugar or cider. It is important to stir constantly Avith an apple-butter stirrer. Always tie an oil-cloth cover over the cloth cover on preserves, etc. Apple Preserves. — Take three-quarters of a pound sugar to each pound apples ; make syrup of sugar and little water in which root ginger (bruised and tied in a bag) has been boiled until strength is well extracted, add a little lemon juice or sliced lemon, skim off all scum, and boil in syrup a few apples at a time, until transparent, and place in jar. When all are done, boil syrup until thick, pour boiling hot over apples, and cover closely. Well-flav- ored fruit, not easily broken in cooking, should be used. The gin- ger may be omitted if disliked, and orange peel or other flavoring used instead. Some use pound for pound sugar and fruit and pre- fer to chop the apples. To put up With Boiled- Cider ^m^q %c\^2X quantities of sweet and sour apples, peel, quarter, and core, put in preserving kettle, after first turning a plate over on Ijottom to keep from burning ; to a peck of apples add a quart boiled-cider, and boil steadily and gently an hour, stirring from the sides to prevent burning ; then add pint molasses, and continue boiling five hours. The heat must be just enough to keep boiling ; boil them until ap- ples are red; when cold put in glass or stone jars, or wooden firkins with tight covers. Sometimes one-fourth the quantity of apples is added in quinces or quince parings, when Quince Jelly or Preserves are being made. Barherry Preserves. — Take pound white sugar to pound fruit; put sugar over fire in preserving kettle, with half pint cold water to each pound ; let the syrup boil slowly, and remove all scum ; pick over barberries, removing all defective ones, and keep the bunches whole, or pick from stems, as liked ; Avhen the syrup is clear put in the berries and boil gently until they begin to look clear ; then skim them out, put in glass jars, and boil syrup until it thickens a little ; test by cooling a little in a saucer, and when of a rich con- sistency, but not like jelly, pour over the berries, cool, and put in jars. Apricot Preserves are made same way, opening the fruit only just enough to remove stones ; crack the stones, blanch the kernels and put a few in each jar. 724 mESERVEf!. Blackherry Preserve^). — Select large, ripe, but not soft berries ; tbe Lawton is best for this purpose, as its acidity makes a soft jelly of the S3''rup. Allow pound sugar to pound fruit ; put fruit in preserv- ing kettle, lot heat slowly on back of stove until there is so mucli juice that it can boil without burning; boil until perfectly tender, ten or fifteen minutes ; then add sugar, mix as gently as possible, and do not boil again, but keep very hot until sugar is perfectly dis- solved. Then fill cans and seal as directed. With Curraiits, put blackberries and sugar in kettle in layers, with sugar at bottom and top, and next day add half pint currant juice for each pound ber- ries, boil twenty minutes, skimming well, and can as directed. Blnehevry Preserves made as either recipe ; or some use half blue- Iterries and half currants (instead of juice). This proportion is also nice, using quarter as much sugar, canned for pies. Currant and Cranberry Preserves made as first recipe, some adding a little water. Carrot Preserves. — Boil small fine-grained carrots in water till tender; peel and grate, add sugar to taste, slips of citron, spices if preferred, and a little grape or currant juice, or if Avished very nice, orange and lemon juice, half and half, this gives more the flavor of wine; simmer slowly together and put away in jars. Very whole- some for children and very much liked. Cherry Preserves. — Choose sour ones — the early Richmond is good — stone very carefully and allow equal quantities sugar and fruit ; sprinkle half the sugar over the fruit, let stand an hour, pour into preserving kettle and boil slowly ten minutes ; skim out cher-- ries, add remainder of sugar to syrup, boil, skim and pour over the cherries; next day, drain off syrup, boil, skim if necessary, add the cherries, boil twenty minutes, and seal up in small jars. Some use only three-fourths pound sugar to pound fruit, after standing, and prepare syrup and cook same as Barberry Preserves, boiling in the syrup half an hour. Or prepare after recipes for Blackberries. Citron Preserves. — Pare off rind, seed, cut in thin slices two inches long, weigh, and put in preserving kettle with enough water to cover; boil one hour, take out melon, and to water in kettle add as much sugar as there is melon by weight, boil until quite thick, replace melon, add two sliced lemons to each pound fruit, boil twenty minutes, take out, boil syrup until very thick molasses, and pour over the fruit. Some mix rind and sugar and let stand over- night to harden citron, then finish as above. The juice of lemons is preferred by some to the slices, and a few whole cloves may be added. Another way of preparing is to peel and cut six pounds of rinds, boil them in strong alum water half anhour or until jx'rfectly transparent, drain, and put them in a vessel of cold water, cover, and let remain overnight. Next morning tie in thin cloth half pound race ginger and boil in tln-ee pints water until strongly llav- PRESERVES. 725 ored. Break up six pounds loaf sugar in preserving kettle, pour ginger water over it, and when dissolved, set it over the fire, add juice and grated rinds of four lemons, and boil and skim till no scum rises ; put in the rinds and boil till clear. Skim out on dishes and set in a dry, cool, dark place, uncovered, two or three days, till the watery particles exhale ; then put into jars, gently pour in the syrup and seal. Made much handsomer by cutting the citron with fancy cutters made for the purpose, or use a vegetable cutter. Crah-apple Preserves. — Procure the red Siberian Crab select- ing those that are nearly perfect, leaving the stems on, and put in preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover. Heat slowly to boiling, and simmer until skins break. Drain and skim them ; then, with a pen-knife, extract the cores through the blossom ends. Weigh and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar and a cup water to every pound fruit. Boil water and sugar together until scum ceases to rise, skimming well ; put in fruit, cover kettle, and simmer until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- mer and spread upon dishes to cool and harden ; add to the syrup the juice of one lemon to three pounds fruit, and boil until clear and rich. Fill jars three-quarters full of apples, pour syrup in, and when cool, tie up. Transcendent Crabs are preserved as follows : Wipe perfectly sound ripe fruit with a damp cloth, cut off the blos- som end, but leave on the stems ; weigh, and allow an equal weight in sugar ; put fruit into steamer and cook until tender, watching carefully, as they cook very quickly. Make a syrup as directed in preface, put in the apples and boil gently until they begin to look clear, removing all scum that may rise ; when the apples are clear, skim them out of the syrup, put into glass jars, and continue to boil and skim the syrup until it thickens when a little of it is cooled on a saucer ; pour over the apples, and seal the jars air-tight. Some peel, quarter and core fruit and put with it an equal quantity of raisins, with half pound sugar for each pound of the mixed fruit ; make a syrup of sugar with a little water, put in the fruit and cook until tender. Put up as above. Elderberry Preserves. — Wash and stem the elderberries, re- jecting all imperfect ones and boil them in sorghum molasses until quite thick, then pour hot into stone crocks and tie up securely with a piece of clean soft paper fitted to size of crock laid directly on the fruit to take the mold if there be any from a damp cellar. These are intended for pies and are to be used as directed in recipe for Elderberry Pie. Wild Grapes may be put up in same Avay and make delicious pies. Fig Preserves. — Gather fruit when fully ripe, but not cracked open ; place in perforated tin bucket or wire basket, and dip for a moment into deep kettle of hot and moderately strong lye (some '26 PRESERVES. prefer letting them lie an hour in lime-water and afterwards drain ) ; make a Bvrup as directed in ])reface and when figs are well drained, put them in and boil until well cooked ; remove, boil syrup till there is just enough to cover fruit, put fruit back in syrup, let all boil, and seal up while hot in glass or earthen jars. Grape Preserves. — Prepare fruit as in Grape Jam taking same proportion sugar; put skins and juice in kettle, cover closely, and cook slowly until skins are tender; wliile still boiling add sugar and move kettle back, as it must not boil again ; keep very hot for fif- teen minutes, then, if sure sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour fruit in cans, and screw down covers as soon as possible. To make Green Grape Preserves., halve them and extract seeds with a needle or small knife, cook till tender with sugar, ])0und for pound. Some first boil the grapes a few moments in alum water, then drain, and put into the syrup. Greengage Preserves. — Allow one pound sugar and gill water to every pound fruit ; boil sugar and water together ten minutes, skimming well ; halve the greengages, take out stones, put fruit into syrup, and simmer gently until nearly tender, removing all scum. Take off fire, put into large crock, and next day boil again for about ten minutes with the blanched kernels from the stones. Put fruit carefully into jars, pour the syrup over it and cover when cold. Mulherrg Preserves. — Put some of the fruit in preserving ket" tie, and simmer it gently until the juice flows freely. Strain through a bag, measure it, and to every pint juice allow two and a half pounds sugar and two pounds fruit. Put sugar in'preserving kettle, moisten with the juice, boil up, skim well, and add fresh mulberries, which should be rii)e, but not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in syrup till warmed through, then boil gently ; Avhen half done, turn carefully into crock, and let remain till next day ; then boil as before, and when syrup is thick, and becomes firm when cold, put preserves into cans or jars. In making this, care should be taken not to break mulberries ; stir gently,and simmer the fruit slowly. Peach Preserves. — Take any fine peaches that do not mash readily in cooking, pare very thinly, halve them and remove pits ; take sugar ecjual in weight to fruit, or if to be sealed in cans, three- quarters pound sugar to pound fruit, and water in proportion of a lialf pint to each pound sugar. Boil pits in the water, adding more as it evaporates, to keep the proportion good, remove pits, add sugar, clarify as directed, and when the scum ceases to rise, add fruit, a small quantity at a time ; cook slowly about ten minutes, skim out into a jar, add more, and so on until all are done, tlien pour the boiling syrup over all. The next day drain oft' and boil syrup a i^w minutes only, and pour l)ack, repeating daily until the fruit looks clear. Two or throe times is generally sufficient. The PRESERVES. 727 last time put up the preserves in small jars and secure with paper as directed for jellies. If to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is sufficient, after which put into cans and seal immediately. The lat- ter plan is preferable, as it takes less trouble and less sugar, while the natural flavor of the fruit is better retained. Instead of using as above some crack the pits, take out the kernels, blanch them and put in the jars with the fruit. Many think peach preserves much nicer if made with maple sugar. The best part of a p'^ach lies nearest the skin and for this reason some do not peel peaches for preserves, simply wiping with a woolen cloth to remove fuzz. But peel^ ing by immersion removes very little of the valued part. Clingstone peaches are preserved as above, whole, except that they are put on in clear water and boiled until so tender that they may be pierced with a silver fork before adding the sugar. ¥ov Sun-preserved Peaches^ place in earthen dishes alternate layers of peaches and sugar and let stand overnight ; then boil over slow fire until transparent, pour into large dishes and stand in the sun until the syrup is almost a jelly. Put in jars and see that no bubbles of air are left in them ; place brandied paper on top and cover as directed. Pear Preserves. — Pare, cut in halves, core and weigh, and to prevent darkening drop into cold water till ready to use; if hard, boil in water until tender, and use the water for syrup ; allow three-quar- ters pound sugar for each pound fruit, boil a few moments, skim, and cool ; when lukewarm add pears, and boil gently until syrup has penetrated them and they look clear ; some of the pieces will cook before the rest, and must be removed ; when done, take out, boil down syrup a little and pour over them ; a few cloves stuck here and there in the pears add a pleasant flavor. Seal in glass cans. Some leave the pears whole and boil in water until tender ; then take them out, add sugar to water in which they were boiled, and when clear and thick, put in the pears and simmer gently half an hour. Then can as directed. Pie-plant Preserves. — Wash clean, but do not peel ; cut up an inch or two in length, put a layer in small jar, then a layer of sugar, another layer of pie-plant, then sugar, until the pan or crock is full, allowing pound sugar to pound pie-plant ; cover tightly, put in hot oven, and as soon as it is heated through it is done. The pie-plant will be whole, and the syrup rich and a pretty color. Do not put in a drop of water. An earthen bean-pot with cover is the best to use, and fruit must then cook half an hour. Put up in glass cans. Pine-apple Preserves. — Select ripe and perfectly sound pine- apples, cut in rather thick slices, as fruit shrinks very much in boil- ing, and pare off rind carefully, notching in and out, as the edge cannot be smoothly cut without great waste. Allow pound sugar to pound fruit and dissolve a portion of sugar in preserving kettle with a gill water ; when this is melted, gradually add remaindei ol 728 PRESERVES. sugar, and boil until it forms a clear syrup, skimming well. Put in pieces of pine-apple and boil well for at least half an hour, or until it looks nearly transparent. Put into jars, cover down when cold, and store away in a dry place. Some put fruit and sugar in kettle in layers, with a cup water for each pound sugar ; when it boils take out pine-apjole and spread on dishes in the sun. Boil the syrup half an hour, skimming well. Return pine-apple to kettle and boil fifteen minutes. Take it out, pack in wide-mouthed jars, pour on the scalding syrup ; cover to keep in heat, and when cold tie as di- rected in preface. Or the pine-api)le may be grated, sprinkled with the sugar and let stand overnight. Next morning bring to a boil and it is done. Put in jars as directed. Plum Preserves. Take equal weight sugar and plums ; add sufficient water to sugar to make a thick syrup, boil, skim, and pour over plums (previously washed, pricked and placed in a stone jar), and cover with a plate. The next day drain off syrup, boil, skim, and pour it over plums ; repeat this for three or four days, place plums and syrup in preserving kettle, and boil very slowly for half an hour. Put up in stone jars, cover with papers like jellies, or seal in cans. Some simply boil the plums, first pricking them, in the thick syrup till tender, then can. Others boil in water to cover (if fruit is sour adding a teaspoon soda to each pint water to take off the bitter taste) until tender then rinse them in cold water and stone carefully, keeping as nearly whole as possible ; then boil them a few minutes in the tliick syrup and can. Or select large ripe plums, Aveigh them, slightly prick them, to prevent from bursting, and sim- mer very gently in a R3'rup made of a quarter pound sugar to each pint water. Put them carefully in pan, let syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and let stand two days. Make another syrup of three- fourths pound sugar for every pound fruit as first weighed, with as little water as possible, boiling and skimming carefully. Drain plums from first syrup, put them into the fresh syrup, and simmer very gently until they are clear; lift tliem out singly into cans or jars, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover as directed. Green- gaqes are also very delicious done in this manner. To Preserve Plums Dry, ^-Aihi^r plums when full-grown and just turning color ; prick them, put in saucepan cold water, and set over fire until water is on point of boiling. Tlicn take them out. drain, and boil gently in syrup made with pound sugar to each gill water ; if the plums shrink, and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan ; give another boil, skim, and set away. Next day add more sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the fruit and svrup ; put all together in wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for two nights ; then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and dry them in a. cool oven. PRESERVES. 729 Pumpkin Preserves. — Halve a good sweet pumpkin, take out seeds, cut into slices, pare, then cut in small pieces, weigh and put in preserving kettle in layers with same quantity of sugar sprinkled between ; add a gill lemon juice on top and let stand two or three days. Add a half pint water for every three pounds sugar used and boil until pumpkin is tender ; turn into a pan and let remain a week. Then drain off syrup, boil until it is thick, skim and pour boiling hot back over the pumpkin. A little bruised ginger and thinly pared lemon rind, may be boiled with the syrup to flavor. Quince Preserves. — Take equal weights of quinces and sugar, pare, core, and leave whole or cut up as preferred, boil till tender in water enough to cover (some steam them), take out carefully and pil4 on a platter ; add sugar to water, replace fruit and boil slowly till clear, place in jars and pour syrup over them. To increase the quantity without adding sugar, take half or two-thirds in weight as many fair sweet apples as there are quinces, pare, quarter, and core ; after removing quinces, put apples into the syrup, and boil until they begin to look red and clear, and are tender; place quinces and apples in jar in alternate layers, and cover with syrup, making very nice Quince and Apple Preserves. Some boil the parings and cores, tied in a cloth, with the quinces to enhance the flavor. For other use of parings and cores, see Quince Jelly. Apples alone may be preserved in same way. Strawberry Preserves. — Take fresh strawberries, cover with their weight in granulated sugar and let stand overnight. In the morning drain off the syrup, put in preserving kettle, cook about twenty minutes, then put in berries and cook ten minutes. Put up in glass cans or in jelly glasses. Or put two pounds sugar in pre- serving kettle over kettle of boiling Avater, and add half a pint boil- ing water ; when the sugar is dissolved and hot, put in the straw- berries, and place the pan directly on the stove or range ; let boil ten minutes or longer, if the fruit is not clear ; gently (or the berries will be broken) take up with a small strainer, and keep hot while s^^rup is boiled down until thick and rich ; drain off thin syrup from cans, and pour the rich syrup over berries to fill, and screw down the tops immediately. The thin syrup poured off may be brought to boiling, and then bottled and sealed, to be used for sauce and drinks. Raspberry Preserves prepared same. Tomato Preserves. — Scald and peel carefully small perfectly" formed tomatoes, not too ripe (yellow pear-shaped are best), add an equal amount of sugar by weight, let lie overnight, then pour off'.ill juice into a preserving kettle, and boil to a thick syrup,clarifying with white of egg; add tomatoes and boil carefully until they look trans- parent. _ A piece or two of root-ginger, or one lemon to a pound of fruit, sliced thin and cooked with fruit may be added. Or when r30 PRESERVES. done, take out fruit with a perforated skimmer aud spread upon dishes; boil syrup until it thickens, adding, just before taking up, juice of three lemons ; put fruit into jars and iill up with hot syru]». When cold, seal. Some do not peel tomatoes, but wipe them first with a wet cloth, then a dry one, and prick each several times with a large needle to prevent bursting, then cook as above. Green Tomato Preserves. — To five quarts sliced green tomatoes, take three lemons or more and allow three-fourths pound sugar to one pound tomatoes ; cook tomatoes in water till soft, then skim out, and throw that water away ; make a syrup of sugar, putting the lemons in the syrup to cook ; tlien put in tomatoes, and let them just come to a boil. Or take tomatoes size of walnut, or less and pierce with a fork. Put half the sugar over them and let stand over- night ; in the morning add remainder of sugar with lemons, put over fire and simmer, but not boil, until all have changed color or become transparent, then cover. Or use only juice of lemons, place fruit on plates and finish as in second recipe of Tomato Preserves. Water-melon Preserves. — Pare rinds of water-melon, cut in pieces two inches long or in leaves, stars, diamonds, triangles, hearts, etc. ; weigh, throw into cold Avater, skim out, acid heaping teaspoon each salt and pulverized alum to two gallons rinds, let stand until salt and alum dissolve, some leave overnight; fill kettle with cold water, and place on top of stove where it will slowly come to boiling point, covering with a large plate so as to keep rinds un- der ; boil until they can be easily ])ierced with a fork, drain from water, and put into a syrup previously prepared as lollows : Bruise and tie in muslin bag four ounces of dried or green ginger-root, and boil in two or three pints water until strongl}'- flavored. If green root is used, it must be soaked and scraped, so it will not discolor the syrup. Add also the rinds of three or four lemons pared in quarters (squeeze lemons and use juice as directed hereafter) ; when water is Avell flavored with the rinds, skim them out and put in another saucepan, cover with fresh water and boil till tender, then cut in narrow strips lengthwise, notching the edges, or cut in any shapes wished. Make a syrup of a gill of the water in which ginger and lemon rinds were boiled and heaping pint sugar ; when well dis- solved, place on fire, boil, add a heaping pint melon, and half dozen pieces lemon rinds, boil till transparent ; place in glass cans arrang- ing nicest pieces on outside, pour over the hot syrup and seal.as directed in Canning Fruit. If wanted very nice have fresh syruj) made as above and to that proportion add two tablespoons lemon juice and pour over; using that in first kettle for cooking a second pint of rinds, or can it and use in mince-meat or cooking any fruit. Citrons may be prepared in same way, by paring, coring and slicing, or cutting into fanciful shapes with tin cutters made for the purpose; or left whole, piece removed as if preparing for Man- PRESERVES. 731 goes, and the pulp taken out. After being preserved fill with any preserves Avished, nicely drained, and tie in the piece; place injur and cover with syrup. Some after cooking melon rinds in water put sugar and rinds in alternate layers in jar and let stand over- night ; in the morning drain off syrup, heat and boil the rinds in it until tender, then take them out into cans or jars and boil the syrup till thick, adding lemon and ginger flavoring as above if liked ; pour the syrup over the rinds and seal or cover. The ginger root may then be preserved with the melon. Others pour a strong salt brine over melon or citron pieces and let stand two weeks, or even longer, then soak, changing water two or three times. When perfectly fresh, boil in water half an hour, drain, add cold water, cook till tender and then preserve in syrup as in first recipe. Apple Cheese. — Put an equal weight pared and cored apples and stoned plums into preserving kettle. Boil without adding any water. When fruit begins to soften add pound sugar to each pound pulp. Boil slowly for an hour, and pour into shallow molds ; place these in a slow oven when the preserve will dry until it resembles a fruit cheese. Or, take one pound pulped apples, one pound pow- dered white sugar, the juice and grated rind of three lemons, and four eggs well beaten. Mix these ingredients carefully, and put them into a saucepan with quarter pound fresh butter, melted. 8tir it over a moderate fire for half an hour without ceasing, and put into jars, covering when cold. Use as required for tarts, puffs, etc. This is a most delicious preserve, and keeps quite a while. Preserved Quinces in Jelly. — Pare, quarter and core quinces, cut in little squares and drop into cold water until all are done ; then measure and allow an equal amount sugar ; place fruit in porce- lain kettle with just water enough to cover, boil till tender, and skim out carefully ; make syrup of sugar and water in which the quinces were boiled, let come to boiling point, skim well, and drop the quinces in gentl}'' ; boil fifteen minutes and dip out carefully into jelly glasses. The syrup forms a jelly around the fruit so that it can be turned out on a dish, and is very palatable as well as orna- mental. For present use it is nice placed in a fancy mold and served when cold. Quinces too defective for preserves may be thus used. Apple Butter. — When one barrel of new cider has boiled down half, add three bushels good cooking apples and when soft stir con- stantly for from eight to ten hours. If done it will adhere to an in- verted plate; put away in stone jars (not earthen ware), covering first with brandied papper cut to fit jar, and pressed down closely upon the apple butter ; then cover the jar with thick brown paper tightly tied down. To make a small quantity, some boil down a gal- lon new cider to a quart ; then having pared, cored and steamed ap- ples till tender, rub them through a sieve and thicken the boiled 782 PRESERVES. cider with the pulp. A little lemon or orange juice may be added, or any fruit juice. The latter is much nicer than to use any spices. For Quince and Apple Butter^ pare, core and quarter half as many quinces as apples and weigh both, allowing half the weight in sugar. Boil quinces in little water until soft, put in apples, when tender add sugar and boil slowly several hours. Stir frequently to prevent burning. Or quinces may be cored but not pared, cooked as above, adding apples, and put through a colander before adding sugar. It will then not require so long stirring. Quince Butter made same. £^r/(/ Butter. — Boil a pint molasses slowly about fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring to prevent burning ; add three eggs well beaten, stirring them in as fast as possible, boil a few minutes longer, partially cool, and flavor to taste with lemon. For Lemon Butter see Pastry. Peach Butter. — Take pound for pound peaches and sugar; cook peaches alone until soft, then put in half the sugar, and stir half an hour ; add remainder of sugar, and stir an hour and a half. Season with cloves and cinnamon. Or With Vinegar, put in six quarts peeled, stoned and sliced peaches in preserving kettle with three quarts sugar, and pint vinegar, heat gradually, and simmer gently ; carefully stir occasionally until it begins to thicken, and then stir almost constantly till consistency of Apple Butter, cook- ing three or four hours. Put away as directed, covering first with the brandied paper ; or alcohol may be used for wetting the paper. Plum Butter. — Stew and pulp wild plums through a sieve, and to one gallon of this add three quarts sugar and one desertspoon salt ; cook two hours, stirring as directed ; add half pint vinegar, two small pieces race ginger, teaspoon each ground cloves, allspice, celery seed and two of ground cinnamon, with a pinch cayenne, boil up once and can. PumpMn Butter. — Take seeds out of one pumpkin, cut in smnll pieces and boil soft ; cut three other pumpkins in pieces, boil them soft, put in a coarse bag and press out juice ; add juice to pulp of first pumpkin, and let boil ten hours or more, till the thickness of Apple Butter ; stir often. If pumpkins are frozen, juice will come out much easier. Or cook pumpkin in ordinary manner until all or nearly all the water is cooked out (see Pumpkin Pies) ; to every three gallons pumpkin pulp take one of amber-syrup and ounce each all- spice, cloves and cinnamon, and cook well together, or until proper consistency for table use ; when made late in fall and put in jars in a cool place, will keep for months; very convenient for Pumpkin- pies. Another way of preparing is to either steam or bake pump- kin, then mash through a strainer, mix sugar and butter with it m proportion of a pound sugar and four tablespoons butter to two pounds pumpkin, and a piece race ginger bruised, or thinly shaved PRESERVES. 733 lemon rind ; let simmer at back of stove or set upon bricks on stove for perhaps an hour. It becomes thick and semi-transparent. Tomato Butter. — Wash ripe tomatoes, cut out any defective parts and stew without peeling till very soft ; then pulp through sieve and to nine pints pulp take four pints sugar, boil one hour, add an ounce powdered cinnamon, or two if liked highly spiced ; let cook till thick as Apple Butter, stirring constantly, (about three-quarters of an hour longer), and just before it is done add two lemons sliced thin. Fill in glass cans, jelly glasses or jars, and seal or cover as directed. This can be made from canned tomatoes ; six quart cans making above quantity of pulp. For Spiced Tomato Butter., add heaping pint sugar to two quarts pulp, prepared as above, gill vine- gar, piece race ginger, half teaspoon each powdered cloves, allspice and celery seed, and teaspoon each cinnamon and black pepper. Cook and finish as above. Apple Marmalade. — Take nice sound apples, pare, core and cut in small pieces and to every pound fruit add pound sugar. Put sugar on to boil with enough water to disolve it, boil together till thick, then add the apples and boil till clear, adding juice and g/ated peel one large lemon to four pounds fruit. Some like the flavor of essence of ginger. Or take twelve pounds richly flavored 8w#«t apples, three pounds brown sugar and juice and grated rind three lemons. Boil slowly, mash and stir until a smooth marmalade. Apricot Marmalade. — Peel, cut in half and take out stones ((saving them), and allow one and one-ha'f pounds sugar to each pound fruit. Put a layer of fruit in large stone jar, then a layer of : sugar, and so alternate till all are used, putting a thick layer of powder- ed sugar over last layer of fruit. Let stand twenty-four hours, then put in preserving kettle and boil three-quarters of an hour stirring all the time. Crack stones, take out kernels, blanch them, cut into thin slices and when marmalade is nearly done put them in and stir well. When mi:^ture hangs in a thread from spoon it is done. Pour in jars, let stand twenty-four hours and cover as directed. Fig Marmalade. — Use fine fresh figs, and to every pound fruit add three-quarters pound sugar, the yellow rind of an orange or lemon pared very thin. Cut up figs, put in kettle with sugar and orange, also the juice. Boil until reduced to a thick smooth mass, stir from bottom. Put in jars and cover closely. Orange Marmalade. — Choose fine Seville oranges, put them whole in stewpan with sufficient water to cover, and stew until per- ftjctly tender, changing water two or three times ; drain, take off rind, remove seeds from pulp, boil another ten minutes, then add peel cut into strips, and boil marmalade ten minutes ng;iin, when it is done. The juice and grated rind of two lemons tu every duzen '84 PRESEKVES. oranges, added with the pulp and peel of the oranges are a great improvement. Pour into jars, cool and cover. Or take twelve pounds sour oranges, twelve pounds crushed sugar ;Avash oranges and pare them as apples; put pool in preserving kettle with twice its bulk or more of cold water ; keep covered, and boil until per- fectly tender ; if water boils away, add more ; the peel is goner- ally very hard, and requires several hours boiling; cut oranges in two crosswise, squeeze out juice and soft pulp, have a pitcher with a strainer in the top, place in a two-quart bowl, squeeze thin juice and seeds in the strainer and the rest with pulp in bowl, drawing the skin as it is squeezed over the edge of tin strainer, to sorajje off the pulp, then pour all juice and pulp on sugar; the white skins nmst be covered with three quarts cold water, and boiled half an hour ; drain water on sugar, put white skins in colander, four or five together, and pound off soft part, of which there must be in all two pounds and four ounces ; put this with sugar and juice ; when peel is tender drain it from water, and either pound it in a mortar, chop it in a bowl, or cut it in delicate shreds with a pair of scissors, or, to save the necessity of handling the peel after it is boiled, grate yellow rind from orange, then tie it in a muslin bag, and boil until soft, which can be told by rubbing a little of it between the thumb and finger; it is then ready for the other ingredients; put the whole in a porcelain kettle, or in a bright tin preserving pan, and boil about an hour ; when it begins to thicken it must be tried occasionally, by letting a little cool in a spoon laid on ice. To prevent its burning, stir constantly ; when done put in glasses and cover with paper. Peach Marmalade. — Choose ripe, well flavored fruit, and it is well to make this Avhen making preserves, reserving the softer ones for marmalade. The flavor is improved by flrst boiling pits in water with which syrup is to be made. Quarter peaches and boil thirty minutes before adding sugar, stirring almost constantly from time })e;K'h(s l)egin to 1)0 tender; add sugar in i)roportion of three-fourths pound sugar to one pound fruit, continue to boil and stir for an hour longer, and jmt up in jars, pressing paper over them as directed for jollies. Some add juice of a lemon to every three pounds fruit and the blanched kernels as in Apricot JMarmalade" Or a large ri})e pine-apple, pared, cut fine and cooked with peaches, gives fine flavor. P'uie-apple Marmalade. — Pare pine-apples, take out eyes, weigh and allow a pound granulated sugar to every pound fruit; grate ])ino-applo, or shred with a silver fork, put over the fire, add the sugar gradually, and cook very gently until clear and thick as jelly, stirring often. Put up in air-tiglit cans. Some chop pine-apple and steam until tender, then put into a syrup of the sugar moist- ened with half pint water for each pound, and cook and stir as above. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES, 735 PXJI3DINGS ANX) SAUCES. Not any ingredient of doubtful quality should enter into the compo- sition of puddings. Suet must he perfectly siveet and milk should Be fresh and without the least unpleasant flavor. Suet when over kept or milk soured or curdled in the slightest degree, ruins a pud. ding which Avould otherwise be most delicious. Prepare raisins and currants as directed on page 65 ; adding a little flour to the raisins while cleaning will be found an improvement, and if a colander with small holes is at hand, use this for washing the currants ; put currants in colander, set in hot water, stir briskly about and change water two or three times. Almonds and spices must be very finely pounded, and the rinds of oranges or lemons grated lightly ofl" (th inner white part of the peel is bitter and must not be used). In making pudding when butter and sugar are used it is better to cream them together before adding to other ingredients. ^^ Creaming^^ is simply beating until the}^ assume a light frothy appearance, and butter is some- times creamed, or beaten till light, alone. Always beat eggs separ- ately, straining the yolks, and adding whites the last thing. If boiled milk is used, cook in custard kettle, and let it cool somewhat before adding eggs ; be sure that the mixture is free from lumps and when fruit is added stir it in at the last. Some cooks never use either soda or baking powder in puddings, beating the mixture un- til so light noue is needed. Puddings are either baked, boiled or steamed ; Rice, Bread, Custard, and Fruit puddings require a moder- ate heat ; Batter and Corn-starch, a rather quick oven. Always bake them as soon as mixed. Add a pinch of salt to any pudding and use rather too little than too much sugar as it tends to make the pudding heavy, and the sauce can be made sweeter if necessary. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. Boiled puddings are lighter when boiled in a bag and allowed full room to swell, but many use a buttered tin mold or bowl with floured cloth tied over it ; do not fill full, and in boiling do not let water reach quite to top, keeping it boiling all the time. After tying cloth, bring the ends back together, and pin them over the top of the dish ; the pudding may then be lifted out easily by a strong fork put through the ends or corners of the cloth. Pudding Bags are either knitted or made of firm white drilling, tapering from top to bottom, and rounded on corners ; stitch and fell seams, which should be outside when in use, and sew a tape to seam, about tlirce inches from top. Wring bag out of hot water, flour inside well, pour in pudding (which should be well beaten the instant before i)our ing), tie securely, leaving room to swell, (especially when made of Indian meal, bread, rice, or crackers), generally a space e(iual to one- third the bulk of the pudding, and place in a kettle with a saucer at the bottom to prevent burning ; immediately pour in enough boiling water to entirely cover bag, which must be turned several times, keeping water boiling, filling up from tea- kettle when needed. Open bag a little to let steam escape, and serve immediately, as delay ruins all boiled puddings. For ]>lum puddings, invert the pan when put in the kettle, and the pudding Avill not become water-soaked. When the pudding is done, give Avhatever it is boiled in a quick plunge into cold water, and turn out at once, serving immediately. As a general rule boiled pud- dings require double the time required for baked. Pudding-cloths, liowever coarse, should never be washed with soap, but in clear, clean water, dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and out of dust in a drawer or cupboard free from smell. Steaming is safer and hetter than either l)oiIing or baking, as the pudding is sure to be light and wholesome. Prepare the pudding mold, etc., same as for boiling., put on over cold water and do not remove cover while steaming, al- lowing a third more time than is required for boiling. After the water begins to boil do not let it stoj) boiling until the pudding is; done, adding boiling water from the tea-kettle as needed. When a. patent steamer is not used, to add water without removing cover, lift the steamer partially off from kettle and turn it in at the side-. Serve steamed pudding as soon as done, or place in oven a little while to dry it off and brown if wished. Dates are an excellent sub- PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 731 stitute for sugar in Graham or any other pudding. The flat-bot- tomed mold used for baking cakes is especially nice for baking fruit or solid puddings. For those that contain a quantity of milk and eggs, it is better to place the dish ^PM^H in oven, in dripping-pan, half full of hot water, as they cak^^^id^ will bake more slowly and without any danger of burn- ing. It is called the Water-hath^ and one must allow fifteen or tAventy minutes longer when puddings are thus baked. It is also a nice way for any that are apt to stick to the dish, such as Indian, Batter, etc. For baked puddings that are to be turned out to serve, sprink- ling the bottom and sides of dish or mold, after greasing,with bread- crumbs, prevents them from sticking, and many puddings that are commonly baked in a crust, such as Cocoa-nut, Potato, Apple, and Lemon, are equally as good and more wholesome made by using ])read-crumbs as above to the usual depth of crust ; pour in pudding, strew another layer of bread-crumbs over the top, and bake. When puddings are poured into mold to cool, always wet the mold before filling. Sweet milk can be substituted for sour and vice versa, by using soda with the sour, and baking powder, or cream tartar and soda with the sweet, and milk can be used instead of cream by using a tablespoon or two of butter with it. The souffle dish illustrated on page 125 is very nice for puddings which are to be served in dish in which they are baked. Or a Knitted Cover for the bottom, may be made to fit an ordinary pudding dish, of white cotton or macreme cord, in any fancy stitch, with cord and balls of same, or any color to match table furniture, to tie around top of dish and hold it in place. Puddings are often garnished with bits of bright jelly, al- monds whole or sliced, or candied fruits, and are served either moderately warm or cold, never hot except souffles and such as are so mentioned in recipes. In making Sauces^ do not boil after butter is added. In place of wine or brandy, flavor with the juice of the grape, or any other fruit juice prepared as directed in Fruits. The Fruit Flavors, given in Jellies, are also nice, or use orange and lemon juice, half and half, being careful to add lemon juice just before remo"\mig from fire, as it is apt to grow bitter with long cooking. When using corn- starch, stir it with the sugar Avhile dry and no lumps will form. The sauce may be served either poured over or around pudding, or 738 PUDDTNO"? A\D SAUCES. i 1 s;iMc('-boat, and one can select sauce as wished, although one if juuned witli almoe-t each pudding, and serve either hot or cold. Fruit Charlotte. — Boil pint and a half milk or cream over slow fire and stir in gradually yolks of six eggs beaten with two table- spoons arro\vroot, or corn-starch ; cook ten minutes, stirring con- stantly that it may be perfectly smooth. Then divide mixture by turning half into another saucepan ; to one half add ten tablespoons grated chocolate, four of fine granulated sugar, simmer a few min- utes, take off fire and set away to cool. Blanch a dozeni bitter al- mt)nds and four ounces shelled sweet almonds and pound n mortar with enough rose-water to make a smooth i)aste, add an ounce finely chopped citron, cup powdered sugar, and stir all into the other halt of cream mixture, simmer a few moments, set aside to cool and add vanilla flavoring. Cut a large sponge cake in slices crosswise half an inch thick, spread one slice thickly with the chocolate cream, putting another slice on top of this and cover with the almond cream ; do this alternately, i)iling them evenly on a china dish till all ingredients are used, arranging in form of sponge cake l)efore it was cut. Have ready whites of six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, mix in six tablespoons powdered sugar, and with a spoon heap thi.s all over top and sides of cake, then sift powdered sugar over and brown lightly in oven ; or cover with Whipped Cream. Delicious. Apple Dumplings. — Add two cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda, and one of salt, half cup of butter or lard, flour enough to make dough a little sliffer than for biscuit ; or make a good baking-pow- der crust ; peel and core apples, and wash them, roll out crust al)out quarter of an inch thick, cut out circles to fit ap])les, place latter on dough, fill cavity with sugar, and some add a little cinnamon, nut- meg or grated lemon rind, encase each apple in the crust, wet edges and press tightly together, (it is nice to tie a cloth around each one), put into kettle of boiling water slightly salted, lioil half an hour, taking care that the water covers the dumplings. Some who do not tie in a cloth roll two or three times in dry flour. They are also very nice steamed, browned in oven if wished. Serve with sugar and cream or any hot sweet sauce. If boiled in knitted cloths dumplings have a very prettj' appearance. The cloths should be made square, knit in plain stitch with very coarse cotton and just large enough to hold one dumpling. For Baked Dumplings^ make in same way, not mixing the dough so.stifl', or using a Quaker Paste, place in a shallow' buttered pan, without touching each other, prick the top with a fork, bake in a hot oven, turning once or twice, if necessary, to brown evenly, and serve with cream and sugar or a Woh'eri)ie ^^^auce made by cooking tart apples sliced, until soft mshing, or rubbing through puree sieve if wished ; sweetening and PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 739 flavoring with vanilla or a little strawberry or raspberry juice (it is nice to always can some juice to have for flavoring sauces). A spoonful or two of whipped cream, or beaten white of an egg added just before serving is an addition. Any fruit may be used in dump- lings. Or, place in pan which is four or five inches deep (do not have them touch each other) ; then pour in hot water, just leaving top of dumplings uncovered, and to a pan of four or five dumplings, add one cup sugar and half cup butter ; bake from half to three-quarters of an hour. If water cooks away too much, add more. Serve dump- lings on platter and the liquid in sauce-boat for dressing. They are called Buckeye Dumplings when cooked in this way ; or some put them in dripping-pan with simply hot water an inch deep, or enough to almost cover the dumplings and baste occasionally with the hot water. Peach Dumjylings may be made any of above ways with either fresh or canned fruit. For Boiled Ajmle Dumjplinys^ peel and chop tart apples fine, make a crust of one cup rich butter- milk, teaspoon soda, and flour enough to roll ; roll half an inch thick, spread with the apple, sprinkle well with sugar and cinna- mon, cut in strips two inches wide, roll each strip up like jelly cake and place the rolls in a dripping-pan, putting a teaspoon butter on each; put in moderate oven, and bake, basting often with the juice. Serve with Dip Sauce. Currant Dunvplings. — Chop fine six ounces suet, mix it with a pound flour, and add half pound dried currants, which should be nicely Avashed, cleaned and dried; mix whole to a soft paste with half pint water (if wanted very nice, use milk) ; divide into seven or eight dumplings; tie them in cloths and boil for an hour and a quarter. Or make into round balls and boil without a clotli, drop- ping into boiling water, then moving about at first, to prevent stick- ing to bottom of pan. Serve with Lemon Sauce. Lemon Dumplings. — For half dozen dumplings take quarter pound suet, chopped fine, half pound bread (about half ordinary loaf) grated, juice and grated rind of one lemon, three heaping table- spoons sugar, two eggs, beaten slightly, and enough milk to moisten all ingredients so as to form little balls or dump- lings with the hands ; have ready six pieces cloth, one quarter }• ard square, with tapes to tie ; dip cloths in hot water, spread on table, dust Lemon Dumpling.. \^\\\\ flour, placc \\\ a dumpliug, tie, leaving a little room for it to SAvell, when all are ready put in large pot half full of boiling water and boil steadily one hour, keeping on cover. Sprinkle sugar over and serve with Cream or Lemon Sauce. For Lemon Apple Dumplings., add to above one large greening apple, chopped fine ; or a nice dumpling is made by omitting lemon, and using cup chopped apple. 740 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. Rasphcrry Dumplings. — Make a stiff Quaker Paste, pinch ofl" a piece and roll into a circle about three inches in diameter, and quar- ter of an inch thick ; put in berries, Avet edges and press together in turn-over shape, and bake like Apple Dumplings in a moderate oven about forty minutes. Some use the \\'ater-bath as described in pre- face. Serve Avith Lactiola Sauce. Any Berry or Cherry Dumplings made same Avay. Almond Puddi)ig. — Blanch and ])(>und, Avith a little rose-water, three ounces SAveet and four of l)itter almonds ; add pint milk, three tal)lespoons sugar, a little ground nutmeg, tablespoon flour mixed smoothly in a little cold milk, tablespoon bread-crumbs, two Avell- beaten eggs and Avhites of two more eggs Avhisked to a frQth ; pour mixture into buttered mold, cover, and boil quickly three-quarters of an hour ; let it stand a feAV minutes before turning out of mold. Serve Avith Apricot Sauce. Or for an Almond Sou/He, blanch and pound six ounces SAveet almonds, sprinkling in a little orange juice during the process, and let come to a boil in a pint and a half milk ; stir in tAvo tablespoons corn-starch, first mixed smooth Avith a little cold milk and cook till mixture thickens; take from fire and Avhen slightly cool add three tablespoons each sugar and melted butter, beaten yolks of eight eggs, and Avhipped Avhites last. Bake in but- tered souffle dish half an hour, sift sugar over top and serve at once. Only tAvo-thirds fill dish as it rises very much. Almond P^iff's are nice for desert. Blanch and pound tAvo ounces SAveet and four of bitter almonds in mortar to smooth paste; melt tAVo tablesi)oons butter, dredge in four of flour, add four of sugar and tlie pounded almonds. Beat mixture Avell, and put into Avcll-buttered cups, and bake in moderate oven about tAA'enty minutes, or longer should the puffs be large. Turn on dish and serve,bottom of puffs U])pevmost. For Scalloped Almonds, cut light biscuit or rolls in thin slices, line a buttered pudding dish Avith them ; pound to a paste four ounces shelled and blanched almonds, add tAVO tablespoons sugar, teasi)oon poAvdered cinnamon and grated peel of a lemon ; sprinkle half of this mixture over the slices, then add another layer of sliced bis- cuit, cover Avith the rest of mixture and a third layer of biscuit, dot- ting Avith a fcAV bits of butter. Mix six or eight Avell-beaten eggs AA'ith a quart milk, pour in the dish and bake in moderate oven. ^Mlen done, loosen bypassing a knife along the edges, turn on a flat dish and serA'o AAdth Lemon Sauce poured around it ; *r reserA'e throe or four AA'hites, make a meringue and Avhen pudding is done, spread over top, brown in oven and serve in dish in Avhich it was baked, using the Knitted Cover. For Cape May Pudding, cover a dish Avith thin paste, and put OA'er this a layer of any kind of jam, half an inch thick; beat 3'olks of five eggs Avith Avhite of one, and add cup and a half sugar, cup melted butter, and tAvo dozen blanched and pounded almonds; beat all together until Avell mixed, then ]iour in dish over iam, and bake an hour in moderate oven. ]\[ake a PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 741 meringue of the four whites of eggs and put over top when done. Or line a dish with bread-crumbs, put in the layer of jam ; then beat four eggs with four tablespoons sugar and stir into pint milk with three tablespoons butter and an ounce blanched and pounded al- monds, pour into dish, bake as above and serve with Arrowroot Sauce. Apple Pudding. — As this is a standard dish we give a number of the most excellent recipes from which housekeepers can make selections according to taste or the material or time at command. Brown Betty \^ a very quick and easily-made pudding. For this put a layer mashed and sweetened apple sauce in buttered dish, add a few lumps of butter, then a layer of cracker or bread-crumlis sprinkled with a little cinnamon, then layer of sauce, etc., making the last layer of crumbs ; bake in oven, and eat hot with cold, sweet- ened cream. Or for Sweedish Apple Pudding sprinkle sides of buttered dish with bread-crumbs and put a layer in bottom, upon this drop a little melted butter and then put a layer of dried apple sauce, or fresh fruit may be used, mashed and flavored with lemon extract or canned raspberry or strawberry juice, dotting the layer Avith raisins, then a layer of dessicated cocoanut, soaked in a little milk, then crumbs and so on till dish is full, with crumbs and but- ter last ; bake half an hour and serve cold with Vanilla Sauce made by beating quarter-pint each cream and milk, adding a teas])oon corn-starch made smooth in a little milk, half gill sugar and flavor- ing with vanilla ; when almost cold stir in the beaten yolk of one egg and pour around the pudding. With Raspberries, use fresh berries, without cooking, instead of the apple sauce, omitting raisins and cocoa-nut, although latter is very nice with berries. Some cover either pudding Avith a plate, removing just before it is done, to brown top nicely. Serve hot or cold. Equal amount crumbs and fruit may be used, but it is nicer with twice as much fruit as crumbs. Any fresh or dried berries of any kind nuiy be used, first cooking the latter. Thin slices of bread, buttered on both sides, may l)e sub- stituted for the crumbs, with uncooked sliced apples sprinkled with butter, sugar and cinnamon for the sauce or berries ; putting in layer of bread first, with top layer apples, or the buttered bread last, when it should be covered with a plate as above. Apples may be flavored with grated lemon rind or nutmeg. Bake from half to three-quarters of an hour. Serve with sugar and cream, or any sauce preferred ; or use only two layers of bread and butter, one at bottom and top with apples between. Make Currant Pudding same, using ripe stewed currants instead of apples, and Blueherrg Pudding is delicious made as above, first stewing the fruit or not as wished. Any berries may be used same. Serve cold. For an Apple Charlotte Pudding, stew pound cored, pared and qu rtered apples with half pint water, cup sugar and a little lemon extract till they will mash. Cut biscuits in slices, fry them in butter or lard place in fruit dish, spread with the apples, then a layer of jelly or 742 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. jam, then another hiyer of bread, api)lcs and jam and so on, ap])les on top. Make it an hour or two before eating and put whipped cream on top. To make a Batter Apple 'Pudding, peel and core appk-s and i)lace neatly ia buttered dish in which to be served, tilling core cavities with sugar if sour. Make batter of four well-beaten eggs, l)int rich milk, two cups Hour, teaspoon salt and two of baking-pow- der. Beat till very light, pour over apples and bake half an hour, or steam three-quarters of an hour; serve hot as above. For a Boded Apple J^uddinf), line dish Avith a good baking-powder or plain suet crust, with Avhich an egg has been mixed, fill with sliced apples, sprinkle in sugar and cinnamon or any spice liked, tie in a floured cloth, put in boiling water and boil nearly two hours ;_or it may be steamed. Serve with Wolverine Sauce. For Bird's- nest Puddinf/, pare and core without quartering,enough quick-cook- ing, tart apples to fill juidding dish ; make a custard of one quart milk and yolks of three or four eggs, some use less eggs, adding tablespoon corn-starch for each egg omitted ; sweeten, spice, pour over apples, and bake ; when done, beat the whites of eggs stiff with tablespoon white sugar to each egg; spread on custard or crown each nest or apple with a spoonful of meringue, brown lighdy, and serve either hot or cold. If necessary, apples may be baked a short time before adding custard, and if wanted very nice, steam the apples, put in buttered dish, fill core cavities Avith jelly or jam or sugar, stoned raisins and bits of butter and citron, cover each with a slice of steamed apple, or grate over the rind of a lemon and a little nutmeg; pour over custard; or a richer dressing made by creaming a cup butter with two cups sugar, adiling eight well-beaten eggs, beating all together with a gill of milk and cooking in custard kettle till thick as boiled custard ; bake and finish as above. 2Iui- nehaha Pudding \9> a very dainty dessert. To prepare, peel, core and boil apples until soft enough to pulp through colander ; sweeten to taste, add a little powdered cinnamon, put in deep dish, and when quite cold, pour a custard made of yolks of three or four eggs and one quart of milk, sweetened to taste over it and bake in oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Whip whites of eggs adding tablespoon sugar to each egg and lay it daintily in small pieces on custard or spread it on and brown in oven. Eciually good hot or cold. Or omit the milk and add yolks of two eggs to a i)int mashed and sweetened ap- ple sauoe; put in l)uttered dish, bake and finish as above ; or if wished richer add three tablespoons melted butter, gill of sifted bread-crumbs and two more eggs, yolks and whites beaten separ- ately, bake and finish with meringue. Rice Appleni. — Boil half pound rice and quart milk in custard kettle till tender ; sweeten with half cup suuar ; i>are and core with ap- ple-corer seven or eight good-cooking apples, place in slightly but- tered baking dish, put a teaspoon jam or jelly into each cavity, and fill with rich cream ; put the rice in around apples, leaving top un- PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 743 covered ; bake thirty minutes, then cover witli Avhites of two eggs, sift on sugar, and return to oven for ten minutes. Serve with Dip Sauce. If not a quick-cooking variety the apples may first be steamed till half cooked. Some stir into the cooked rice the well- l)eaten yolks of two eggs, four tablespoons butter, a little sugar, a few grated almonds or little vanilka extract and lastly the well-frothed wliites ; then finish as above. Or the prejiared rice and jam or jelly maybe put in dish in layers Avith the apples, Avhich must first be stewed and pulped through sieve. Sprinkle to]) with sifted bread- crumbs and bake. Tapioca may be used instead of rice. _ To make a Scottish Ftidding^ mix two tablespoons arrowroot with pint cream ; add two tablespoons sugar, put in stewpan and place over fire until it boils. Put in dish alternate layers of thinly-sliced apples, sugar and bits of butter ; when two-thirds full put in a cup jam as next layer, and over all pour arrowroot mixture. Bake in moderate oven twenty-five minutes. For Bachelor s Pudding, take a cup finely chopped apples, mixed with a cup currants, four tablespoons sugar, cup sifted bread-crumbs and three well-beaten eggs, with a few drops of lemon extract and little grated nutmeg. Beat well together, put in buttered dish, tie down with a cloth and boil or steam three hours. Serve with Minnehalia Sauce. For Banish Pudding, cook two quarts sliced tart apples with half cup water till tender ; stir in two tablespoons butter and half cup sugar, mixing and mashing tlioroughly, and some put through colander. Put this as the bot- tom layer 'in dish in which pudding is to be served ; then put in fry- ing-pan two and a half teaspoons butter, and when melted add one and a half cups dry bread-crumbs, cup sugar, and half pound al- monds (weighed in shell) blanched and finely chopped ; stir con- stantly about ten minutes or till well mixed ; place this while hot as the second layer in the dish ; then in their season take one quart blackberries and half cup sugar and cook to a jam, or in winter use a jelly glass of jam, or any fruit may be used, and spread this for the third la3'er. All this can be prepared the day before using ; before serving cover with a pint cream well whipped, sweetened to taste, and flavored with vanilla. This fills a two-quart dish, is sufficient for twelve or fourteen persons, and is a delicious dessert. The layer of fruit may be omitted, putting in alternate layers of the bread- crumb mixture and apples with the former on bottom and top. Or some add a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg to the stewed apples, then make a batter of yolks of six eggs well beaten, cup and a half sugar, half pound blanched and grated almonds, and the well-beaten whites. Butter the baking dish, put the apples in first, then a layer of jelly or jam, then the batter. Bake about an hour and cool. Serve with Whipped Cream Sauce. Arrowroot Pudding. — Mix two tablespoons arrowroot with cup milk ; flavor pint and ahalf milk as liked, put over fire, and when it boils pour it on the arrowroot; stir well, and when cool, add three 744 PUDDING!* AND fAT'CES. ^voll-beaten eggs and tablespoon each sugar and orange juice ; put in well-buttered mold, cover, and steam one hour and a half; turn out on a dish, arrange preserves or jam neatly around it, and serve. Some use more sugar, and bake instead of steaming, sprink- ling sugar ovei when done and returning to oven a few minutes to glaze. Very nice served cold. Or With Fruit put a cup cream and one-quarter cup milk over boiling water ; mix two tablespoons arrowroot smooth in four tablespoons milk, add five tablespoons sugar and vanilla flavoring ; when the cream is hot, stirthis in and cook until thick as mush ; stir in a cup candied fruit, which, if larger than cher- ries, should ])e cut. Pour in a mold. When cold, turn out and orna- ment with Avhole macaroons ; they adhere easily and may be arranged as fancied, either over entire mold or in one or two diagonal rows across. Serve surrounded with Custard or Whipped Cream Sauce. Batter Pudding.— Vwi pint and a half milk on to heat, reserv- ing enough to mix four tablespoons flour smooth ; when hot, turn the milk over the flour gradually, stirring to avoid lumps and add two tablespoons butter, a little salt and four or five well-beaten eggs, or add them one at a time and any flavoring desired, beat all thor- oughly, turn into buttered dish, or cups and bake from a half to three-quarters of an hour. Turn out and serve hot with any sauce liked. Or the pudding may be boiled if a cloth is first tied round the dish. Excellent served with orange marmalade or other pre- serves over the top, passing sugar and cream with it. For Batter Balls, drop from a spoon and fry like fritters ; drain, sprinkle with su^ar and serve at once. Or any fresh or dried fruits preferred may be'^stirrcd in just before cooking in any of above ways. Or for Steamed Batter Pudding, take lialf cup each sugar, and butter, three eggs, one cup sweet milk, three teaspoons baking powder, two cups flour, steam one hour and serve with sauce. Less eggs and butter maybe used; and.ir/^A Fruit, pour the batter over a pint and a half stoned cherries, sliced apples or peaches, or any berries. Some have the dish of fruit in steamer, so as to be scalding hot, then pour over the batter and steam as above. Three heaping tablespoons corn meal are nice used, then only taking a heaping cup flour. Serve Avith Chocolate Sauce. Buttermilk or sour milk may also be used with level teaspoon soda instead of baking powder. Bread Pudding-— T'^^^^ iss one of the most common of puddings, a general favorite, and the recipes given are so varied as to meet the requirements of all. For a Plain Pudding, break up pieces of stale bread into bits, and pour on them as much boiling water as will soak them well. Let stand till water is cool ; then press out. and mash bread with a fork until quite free from lumps. Measure and to everv «iuart stir in half teaspoon salt, teaspoon nutmeg, six table- spoou'^'su'^ar, and half pound currants; mix all well together, and put it in well-buttered baking dish. Smooth surface with back of PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 745 spoon, and put a tablespoon and a half butter in small bits over top ; bake in moderate oven one hour and a half, and serve very hot with Maple Sugar Sauce. Boiling milk instead of water very much im- proves the pudding. A Monday Pudding is hardly a pudding at all but does very well for a hastily prepared dessert. Cut crust from loaf of bread, fold latter in a napkin and steam twenty minutes ; or cut bread in even slices, steam half an hour and serve with Every- day Sauce. Or the bread may be buttered and spread with preserves or jelly, then steamed. For a Layer Pudding^ put slices of bread prepared thus in layers in baking dish and pour over half the Boiled Custard given on page 119. Or put currants with nutmeg seasoning between the layers of buttered bread. Some first line the dish or mold with raisins, then fill with the bread and butter, pour the cus- tard over as above and steam half an hour ; or tie a floured cloth over and boil. Serve hot with any sauce liked. Or, halve the rais- ins and place around the mold in rows, diamonds or circles ; they will easily adhere if the mold is well buttered ; make half as much custard as above, usingtwo eggs, into which stir a pint bread-crumbs and half cup chopped raisins, put into prepared mold and steam an hour. Turn out and eat with any sauce. For the regular Bread Pudding^ take quart each sweet milk and bread-crumbs, four eggs, four tablespoons sugar; soak bread in half the milk until st)ft ; mash fine, add rest of milk, the well-beaten eggs and sugar, and tablespoon butter if wanted richer ; bake one hour, serve warm with any hot sauce or Maple Sugar Hard Sauce. Some first boil the milk with two ounces candied lemon peel and six bitter almonds to obtain the flavor, or flavor with nutmeg, then pour it over the crumbs. Bake in either a deep pudding dish or custard cups. A cup raisins or currants are added when liked ; and cracker-crumbs may be used instead of bread; or With Cherries^ add quart stoned cherries, us- ing only bread-crumbs and serve with Cherry Sauce ; or With Peaches add pint canned peaches, mashed, instead of cherries. Steam an hour and a half. For a more elaborate Fruit Pudding, soak a pint bread-crumbs in half pint milk fifteen minutes, add two tablespoons butter, melted, half cup sugar, beaten yolks of four eggs, teaspoon cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves, grated rind of one lemon, two ounces sliced citron and quarter pound each currants and stoned raisins, with whipped whites of eggs beaten in last. Bake in buttered mold or cups, set in pan of hot water and when ready to serve turn out, sift powdered sugar over and send on with very hot sauce. Sufficient for ten persons. Some use quarter pound finely chopped suet instead of butter, and three ounces blanched and chopped almonds, or same quantity chopped figs. Steam or boil three or four hours. Or make Florentine Pudding by omitting the milk, spices and all fruit except the raisins, adding half pint chopped sour apples and half cup more sugar. Serve with Raspberry Sauce. Gooseberry Pudding is made as Florentine 740 PUDDINGS AXD SAUCES. Pudding, omitting the raisins and apples and using a quart stewed and sweetened gooseberries. Bake half an hour in buttered mol.^^bv. with an egg beater. Flavor with rose- .^-r--'''^^ water. It should be like a yellow i^^'^^^''''-''^"f'^^ sponge when put into a crown mold. fi^rilf^iiin top Avith the under side down and serve at once. Or each may be split and spread with jam, then put together again. Delmonico Fuddinr/. — A quart milk, three tablespoons corn- starch dissolved in cold milk, well-beaten yolks of five eggs, six tablespoons sugar. Boil three or four minutes, pour in pudding dish and bake about half an hour ; cover Avith a meringue and brown delicately in oven. For Peach Puddinp^ place a layer of canned peaches over top of above, when baked, adding syrup to custard ■when making, using less milk. Cover with the meringue as above. Dixie Pudding. — Slice lighl bread, trim off crusts and cut in pieces about two inches square ; remove seeds from greengage plums, make very sweet and place on the bread squares. Just be- fore serving, place squares in a dessert dish and cover each with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. A very showy, excellent dish and when sponge cake squares are used in place of bread, very elegant and delicious. Estelle Pudding. — Three eggs, well beaten, two and a half tablespoons sugar, two of butter, three-fourths cup sweet milk, one of raisins chopped fine, one full teaspoon baking powder and three gills flour ; steam thirty-five minutes, browning in oven if wished, and serve with Cold Cream Sauce. Fig Pudding. — Half pound figs, half pint dry l)read-crumbs, five tablespoons powdered sugar, three tablespoons butter, two eggs, cup milk; chop figs fine and mix with butter, and bv degrees add the other ingredients ; butter and sprinkle a mold with bread- crumbs, pour in pudding, cover closely, and boil three hours ; serve with Lemon Sauce. A gill chopped suet may be used instead of butter. INIake a Date Pudding same, using chopped dates instead of figs. Either may be steamed or baked. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 751 Fruit Pudding. — Stew currants or any small fruits', fresh or dried, with sugar to taste, and pour hot over thin slices of baker's bread with crust cut off, making alternate layers of fruit and bread, and leaving a thick layer of fruit for the last. Put a plate on top, and when cool set on ice ; serve with sifted sugar, or cream and sugar. This pudding is delicious made with Boston or milk crack- ers, split open, and stewed apricots or peaches, with plenty of juice, arranged as above. Or another way is to toast and butter slices of bread, pour over it hot stewed fruit in alternate la3'ers, and serve warm with Caramel Sauce. Or drop small light dumplings into the hot stewed fruit and cook until dumplings are done, taking care not to scorch. Serve with sugar and cream. For a Driad Apple Pud- ding., take one cup each dried apples and molasses, one and one- fourth cups flour, fourth cup butter, one egg, teaspoon each soda and cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves; wash and soak apples over night, cut fine and mix with water in which they were soaked, add molas- ses and spice ; mix egg, butter and flour together ; stir soda with apples and molasses ; add and bake immediately ; serve hot with Hard Sauce. Or, soak two cups dried apples overnight. In morn- ing chop fine and boil with cup cooking molasses until like citron. Then add coffee cup sugar, cup butter, four eggs, teaspoon each of all kinds of spices, four cups flour, cup sour milk, and teaspoon soda. Bake in cake tins, and serve with sauce. When cold, it can be steamed and is as nice as when freshly made. For a Stearned Cherry Pudding make a good baking-powder paste, roll out and line bottom of baking dish ; then put in a layer of fresh, stoned cher- ries, or of the stewed dried fruit, cover with another layer of paste, then cherries, and paste on top. Steam two hours and serve with Dip or Hard Sauce. Any fruit may be used. A Pried Peach Pud- ding is made as follows : Chop pint dried peaches and three- fourths pint beef suet and mix with three-fourths pound flour and teaspoon salt ; add water to make dough that can be easily stirred with a spoon, tie in a cloth, leaving room to swell and steam or boil three or four hours. Serve with Jelly Sauce. For Fruit Blanc- mange, take pure juice if the fruit is fresh or canned ; if preserved or jellied, or any fruit shrub, reduce with water to a pleasant flavor. Sweeten the fresh juice and the others if needed ; to a pint of this when boiling add two rounded tablespoons corn-starch, mixed smoothly in a little cold water. Boil a minute or two, stirring all the time, and pour in dish to cool, making a jelly, not quite so firm as blanc-mange. When cold cover with whipped cream ; some first stick the top thickly with lengthwise slices of blanched almonds, and the whipped cream may be omitted, serving with sweetened cream. This is a delicious dessert very easily made, and so little juice is necessary. It can be cooled in any dish, then placed in a glass or china fruit dish to serve. Rice flour may be used instead of corn-starch and some first boil a little stick cinnamon and lemon peel in the juice. 752 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. Ginf/erhread Pudding. — Crumble a half pound stale ginger- l^read into bowl and mix with half pound flour and stir in one table- h!poon each molasses and sugar, two ounces blanched and pounded almonds ; mix half pint milk and a well-beaten egg together and add ; mix thoroughly, put in buttered dish and boil or steam two hours and a half. Grakam Pudding. — Mix together half cup molasses, quarter cup butter, one well-beaten egg, half cup milk, half teaspoon soda, two cups Graham flour, one cup raisins, and spices to taste. Steam three hours. A half cup dried currants or sliced citron may be added, wdth half cup more milk, using either sweet or sour, and part cream makes it much nicer; flour the fruit and add last. Or use gill sugar instead of molasses, melting it up in a little boiling water if wished, and sweet cream or milk with baking powder. Serve with Foaming Sauce. Half -hour Pudding. — Beat four tablespoons butter to a cream with half pint powdered sugar ; add yolks of three eggs, beating them in thoroughly, then rounded half-pint corn meal, and whites of eggs beaten to stiff froth. Mix Avell, and bake in buttered pud- ding dish. Serve with Orange Sauce. Indian Pitddlng. — A quart sweet milk, tablespoon butter, four well-beaten eggs, cup corn meal, half pound raisins, quarter pound sugar; scald milk and stir in meal while boiling; let stand until blood warm, add other ingredients and stir all well together; bake one and a half hours, and serve with Vinegar Sauce. Or for £gatmeal, half pound suet choj^ped line, quarter i)ound each stoned raisins and cur- rants ; steam in buttered dish three hours. Serve with Fruit Sauce. One-tiro-three-four Pudding. — Cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, cup sweet milk, and two teaspoons baking powder ; flavor with nutmeg, and bake in pudding or cake mold ; leave in mold till next day, when steam three-quarters of an hour and serve with Cider Sauce. This is nice baked as a cake. Orange Pudding. — Slice six oranges in a pudding dish, sprinkle with sugar, and stand two hours; pour a pint hot water over two tablespoons corn-starch, previously dissolved in cold water, and let cook a moment or two till as thick as starch , remove from Are, sweeten, add a little gri'tod lemon and pour over the oranges, cover with a meringue and brown in oven. Serve with ^\'llipped Cream Sauce. Any berries or peaches may l^e used instead of the oranges. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 755 Or, make a plain corn-starch pudding without sugar, and pour it over the oranges and sugar. Serve cold. Or take the grated rind of two, and soft pulp of three oranges, cup each sugar and milk, four eggs, two Boston crackers, or four and a half tablespoons rolled and sifted crackers, and tablespoon butter. Cream butter, stir in grated rind, juice and sugar, well-beaten eggs and crackers; add milk, mix well, and bake in pudding dish lined with paste, or in a buttered mold. Or boil four oranges and chop fine, taking out seeds and put in saucepan with six tablespoons butter, twelve blanched and chop- Eed almonds, half pound sugar and juice of a lemon ; heat until the utter is thoroughly melted, then cool and add eight well-beaten eggs ; put in buttered pudding dish with border of puff paste and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour; serve with Golden Sauce. Or line a pudding dish with slices of stale sponge cake, slice in six oranges, removing seeds, pour a Boiled Custard made of yolks of eggs over, cover with meringue made with the whites, brown with salamander or in hot oven and serve cold. Paris Pudding. — Take one pound flour and with a quarter of it make a sponge with a half ounce compressed yeast and a little warm water, and set to rise ; make a hole in the rest of flour, add ten tablespoons butter, three eggs, dessertspoon sugar and a little salt, unless the butter salts it enough. Beat all together well, then add five more eggs, one at a time, beating each in well. When the paste leaves the bowl it is beaten enough, but not before ; then add sponge, and a large half ounce each currants and chopped citron, and an ounce and a half sultana raisins, seedless. Put in large, deep, upright mold, such as a charlotte-russe mold, let rise to tAvice its size and bake in moderate oven. This will keep fresh several days, and if it gets stale makes delicious fritters soaked in fruit juice and dipped in fritter batter. To make the small round cakes, bake in small-sized, round charlotte-russe molds, filled only half full, as they rise very much ; bake these in hot oven, try as any other cake, then prepare a syrup as follows : Boil half pound sugar in pint w\ater, add to this a third of a pint orange and lemon juice, half and half, half pint apricot or peach pulp and boil all together a few moments ; pour this half an inch deep in a dish, and stand the cake or cakes in it ; it should take up all the syrup, some may also be sprinkled over it. Pie-plant Pudding. — Peel, wash and slice four dozen stalks, cut in pieces an inch long, and stew until soft, with sugar to sweeten. Mash through sieve, add rind of one fresh lemon, grated ; little nut- meg, two tablespoons butter, yolks of six egg and whites of two, mix all together, line dish with puff paste, fill with the mixture and bake half an hour and serve with Cold Cream Sauce. Or prepare pie-plant as above and add a pint of rich cream ; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a little milk, stir it through the pie-plant and 756 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. pour into a wet mold. Set in ice several hours before it is wanted and serve witli cream. The pie-plant and gelatine must be mixed while hot. Or cut up pie-plant as above, then make as Brown Betty, allowing pound sugar to each pound pie-plant. Pine-apple Fiidding. — Butter a ])udding dish, and line bottom and sides with slices of stale cake (sjjonge cake is best), pare and slice thin a large piiie-ap])le; place in the dish first a layer of pine- apple, then strew with sugar, then more pine-apple, and so on luitil all is used, cover with slices of cake and pour a cup water or Boiled Custard over slosvly. Cover the whole with a buttered plate, and bake slowly two hours. Or beat four tablespoons flour with i>int cream ; boil till thick, stirring all the time ; when cool, beat yolks of six eggs with two tablespoons butter and two of sugar ; have ready whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, stir them in lightly, and last add two tablespoons fresh or canned pine-ap])le, cut into small squares ; bake in pudding dish. For another nice pudding, peel and grate a large pine-apple, or use a can of the fruit ; weigh after grating, and allow an equal weight sugar and half as much butter; mix the butter and sugar to a cream, beat in yolks of five eggs, and add tiie grated pine-apple and half a pint of cream ; beat whites of eggs to a stiff froth, mix lightly with the other ingredients, and put mixtin-e in dish lined with puff paste and bake in a moderate oven until the pastry is done. Serve an}' of above with Pine-apple Satice. Eiif/lish Plum Pudding. — When making this popular dessert it is well to prepare the fruit the night before, as so much time is required for cooking. It should be made at least two or three days before wanted, and is all the better for being kept a month or two, put away as directed for Fruit Cake, page 64. When to be served it has only to be thoroughly reheated by steaming — do not boil again, as the fruit absorbs the moisture and the whole becomes insipid. For i)reparing the fruit see directions on page 65. All the dry in- gredients should be well mixed together, then moistened with tlie egg, which must be well beaten, and other ingredients added. Some still adhere to the old way of shajjing the dough into a round ball and boiling in a floured cloth, as directed in preface ; others boil in a buttered mold or bowl, with a floured cloth tied over, btit the better way is to steam in buttered mold ]>an. Boil, or steam from three to or Plum Pudding. six hotirs, according to richness and size of pudding. It is a good plan to divide the pudding mixture in half and cook at the same time, using one half and putting the other away for future use. When steaming do not remove cover, and when PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 757 necessary to add more water follow directions in preface. When done place in oven for a few moments ; then put away as directed, resteaming when wanted. To serve, turn out on platter and garnish with holly leaves and berries as illustrated sending on with it any sauce liked. An English way of serving is to break pieces of the pudding into inch bits — do not cut it — before reheating and turn the sauce over before sending to table, serving in individual saucers. This makes it much more delicious, but spoils the appearance of the dish. To serve a pudding from which a part has been cut, divide it in two pieces, four inches long and an inch wide, place in buttered mold, pour a boiled cus- tard over, steam an hour or two, turn out on platter and send to table with a Boiled Custard round it. Several of the best recipes for making the pudding follow : One pound eachbutter, suet and brown sugar, two and one-half pounds flour, two pounds each raisins and currants, quarter pound citron, twelve eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one pint milk, one cup brandy, or half cupeach orange and lemon juice, or use any fruit juice ; half ounce each cloves and mace, two nutmegs, grated. Mix as directed above. One-half of this re- cipe makes a large pudding and should be steamed three hours ; if whole recipe is used steam six hours. Dried cherries, used instead of currants, make a much more delicious pudding and pound blanched and chopped almonds may be added. Serve with Cream Sauce. Or take one and a half pound muscatel raisins, one and one- fourth pound currants, pound sultana raisins, two pounds best coffee sugar, two quarts bread-crumbs, sixteen eggs, two pounds finely chopped suet, six ounces mixed candied peel, rind of two lem- ons, an ounce each grated nutmeg and powdered cinnamon, half dozen pounded bitter almonds, and gill fruit juice. Half bread- crumbs and half flour may be used, and some add teaspoon ginger. Prepare and mix ingredients as directed above, and boil or steam from six to eight hours. For a small family boil in two or three molds. A few sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, ornament the pudding prettil}-. Or With Ajyples, take quart seeded raisins, pint currants, half pint citron cut up, quart apples peeled and chop- ped quart fresh and nicely chopped beef suet, quart sweet milk, heaping quart stale bread-crumbs, eight eggs beaten separately, pint sugar, grated nutmeg, teaspoon salt ; flour fruit thoroughly from a quart flour, then mix remainder as follows : In a large bowl or tray put the eggs with sugar, nutmeg and milk, stir in the fruit, bread- crumbs and suet, one after the other until all are used, adding enough flour to make the fruit stick together, which will take about all the quart ; steam as directed. If not liked so rich less eggs and fruit may be used, and if fruits mentioned are not at hand others may be substituted. Serve with Cape May Sauce. For an £^ffff- less Plum Pudding, take heaping cup bread-crumbs, two of flour, one each suet chopped fine, raisins, molasses and sweet '58 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. milk, tablespoon soda, teaspoon each salt, cloves and cinna- mon and a nutmeg, grated ; hoil two and a half hours in two quart pail, set in kettle of boiling water, or steum for same time. Or take half pound flour, six ounces each raisins and cur- rants, quarter pound each suet, brown sugar, mashed carrot, and mashed potatoes, tablespoon molasses, one ounce each candied lemon peel and citron. Mix flour, currants, suet and sugar well to- gether ; stir in the mashed carrot and potato and add the molasses and lemon peel ; jnit no liquid in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tic loosely in a cloth, or if put in basin do not quite fill it, as the pud- ding should have room to swell, and boil four hours. Serve with Orange Sauce. This pudding is better for being mixed overnight. For Prairie Plum Pudding^ steAV together a cup raisins and half cup citron ; put in buttered dish layer of sponge cake (any kind of cake Avill do, or Boston crackers, sliced and buttered may be used, or Graham bread-crumbs), then a layer of fruit, and so on, with cake or bread for last layer; pour over it custard made in pro- portion of a quart milk, yolks of four eggs, and half cup sugar ; bake until on inserting a knife the milk has become water. Cover with meringue, brown in oven and serve with Prairie Sauce. For a Gel- atine Plum Pudding, beat together half cup sugar, two eggs and teaspoon butter, add three pints sweet milk, a little salt, six crack- ers rolled fine, cup raisins, and a half box gelatine dissolved in lit- tle water; season with nutmeg or cinnamon. Bake in pudding dish and serve with Cocoa-nut Hard Sauce. Potato Pudding. — Boil six good mealy potatoes, mash very fine, beat well with the yolks of five eggs, half pound white sugar, quarter pound butter ; beat whites of eggs to a stiit' froth, add the grated rind and juice of one lemon, stir well, and add a little salt and pint rich milk or cream ; bake an hour and a half; reserve some of the whites of eggs for a meringue for th.e top. A few blanched and pounded almonds may be added. If not liked so rich, use less eggs and butter. Sweet-potato Pudding made in same way. Prune Pudding. — Scald one pound French prunes, let them swell in the hot water till soft, drain and extract stones, spread on disband dredge with flour; take a haif])int milk and stir into it gradually eight tal)lespoons sifted flour, beat six eggs very light and stir by degrees into a pint and a half milk, add the batter, then the prunes, one at a time ; stir the whole very hard, steam two hours, and serve with Prune Sauce or cream. Or put a layer of sliced bread or biscuit, first dipped in boiling sweet milk, in baking dish, then a laj'er of prunes stewed as for eating, seeding the prunes ; then bread and so on till dish is full with bread on top, having sprinkled each layer with a little sugar; pour over the prune juice and remainder of scalded milk. To made it richer, bits of butter may be added to each la3'er ; l)ake in moderate oven from three* PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 759 quarters of an hour to an hour. When cold turn out in a dish and spread whipped cream on top. or it may be served hot with sauce or spoonful whipped cream to each dish. A very nice pudding, wholesome and inexpensive. Pu^' Pudding. — Cream third of a pint butter, gradually dredge in two-thirds pint flour, scant half pint sugar, and keep stirring and beating without ceasing until perfectly smooth. Then add well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and lemon or vanilla flavoring ; butter small cups, half fill them, having just stirred gently in the well-frothed whites, and bake in brisk oven for about half an hour. Turn out on a hot plate and serve with Custard, Jelly or Lemon Sauce. A pretty little dish may be made of these puddings when cold, by cutting out a portion of tlie inside with the point of a knife, and putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate pre- serve, such as apricot, greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is beaten the better the pudding will be. Six eggs may be used and the puffs may be steamed. For a Saratoga PafF Pudding, to one pint boil- ing water add half pint butter,stir in gradually one pint flour till per- fectly smooth ; take off fire, A^hen cool add five well-beaten eggs and half teaspoon soda. Pour batter in a well-buttered, hot pud- ding dish and bake in a quick oven about half an hour or till done ; make an opening at edge and pour in whipped cream as above or a Boiled Custard, and serve at once. Something plainer but nice is the Quick Puff Pudding. Stir together pint each flour and milk, two teaspoons baking powder, and a little salt ; place well-greased cups in steamer, put in each a spoonful of batter, then one of ber- ries, steamed apples, or any sauce convenient, cover with another spoonful of batter and steam twenty minutes. This pudding is de- licious made with cranberries or fresh strawberries and can b(! steamed in a large dish putting together as above. Adding cup sugar and an egg makes the pudding much nicer. Serve with Straw- berry Sauce. For Raisin Puffs, take two eggs, half cup butter, three teaspoons baking powder, two tablespoons sugar, two cu])s flour, one of milk, and one of raisinschopped very fine. Steam half an hour in buttered cups. Serve with Cream Sauce. Queen Mah Pudding — Put rind of lemon, eight bitter almonds, blanched and bruised, or a cut vanilla bean, into pint milk, heat slowly and keep at boiling point, until milk is strongly flavored ; then add a small pinch of salt, and an ounce gelatine. When this is dissolved, strain the milk through muslin, and put it in clean saucepan, with half cup sugar and half pint rich cream ; boil up once, take from fire, stir it briskly and add by degrees well-beaten yolks of six eggs ; set over a gentle fire until mixture thickens, but be careful it does not curdle. When of the right consistencv, pour it out, and continue stirring until half cold ; then mix with it one ounce candied citron, cut in small pieces, and two ounces dried 760 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. cherries ; put in buttered mold and serve cold. Preserved pine-ap- ple may be used instead of the cherries, or mixed with them. This pudding is delicious iced. Raisin Pudding. — Line bottom of a buttered pudding dish, but not the sides, with a Puff or Plain Paste, then add a layer chopped sour apples, two inches thick; then one of chopped raisins, sprinkle over sugar and dot with bits of butter, and any spice liked; add another layer of crust, fruit, etc., until dish is full ; cover with crust and bake slowly an hour and a half; when done, invert on plate, sprinkle fine sugar over and serve with Sago Sauce. Raspherry Puddhu/. — Cream half pint sugar with three table- spoons l)utter, add hiilf pint sweet milk, pint flour, two teaspoons bak- ing-powder and two-thirds of a pint floured ripe raspberries. Bake in a buttered dish and serve with Golden Sauce. Blueberry or any Berry Pudding made same. Rice Pudding. — To a cu[) rice, boiled in custard kettle in i)int salted water until dr}', add pint milk in which a little corn-starch has been dissolved and boil again; add yolks of two eggs beaten with half cup of sugar, stir well together, and lastly add juice and grated rind of one lemon. Place in dish, and bake in moderate oven about one hour ; wlien done, cover top with a meringue and brown in oven. If more of a custard is liked omit the corn-starch and use a little more milk. A cup of raisins maybe added just before baking, or a little eandied lemon peel if liked. If wanted to turn out of mold use five or six eggs. Nice baked in small buttered cups lined with candied lemon peel. Turn out and serve with Apricot Sauce. Or, after boiling rice with milk, eggs and sugar, add table- spoon butter and ])laee in a buttered pudding dish, sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and bake. If wanted richer add four tablespoons butter. Or With Fridt, place a layer of mixture on the crumbs, then a layer of peaches, (fresh, canned or dried), and so on till dish is full with rice last; bake and cover with meringue as above. Or, use chopped pine-apple or oranges, dried cherries or any fruit jam ; the fruit may also be stirred through the rice, then baked. When ])ine-apple or oranges are used they may first be cooked ten minutes in a little sugar and water. Some line the dish with Putf Paste, then fill as above. Serve with Saratoga Sauce. For Boiled Rice Pudding, wash a half pound rice and tie in a cloth, allowing room to swell, and ])ut in saucepan cold water. Boil an hour, then take out, untie, and stir in a pint any fresh fruit, or half pound raisins or currants, tie up again rather tiglitly and boil another hour. If made with dried fruit serve with Sago Sauce, or cream and sugar if fruit is fresh. Nice for children's dessert. For Economical Pud- ding, take quart milk, half cup rice, salt to taste, cup sugar and teaspoon lemon or vanilla, (some add tablespoon butter) ; place in PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 761 oven at once, stirring occasionally while rice is swelling. Bake quite slowly two hours or more. It should be cream-like when done, and must be taken immediately from oven. A good test is to tip dish ; iTf rice and milk move together it is done ; if not sufficiently cooked the milk will run ; if neither move it is done too much. Be- fore serving grate nutmeg over top or sprinkle with powdered cin- namon. To vary this, a cup raisins may be added, or ten minutes before done stir in a well-beaten egg. This is a delicious pudding when properly baked, and may be eaten warm or cold with sugar and cream. Or for Buttered Rice, cook in custard kettle two-thirds cup rice with pint and a half milk ; when tender, in about three- quarters of an hour, pour off milk, stir in two tablespoons butter, sugar to taste, a little grated nutmeg or powdered cinnamon ; when hot, serve with Fruit Sauce. For Rice Snoio ^«ZZs,boil quarter pound rice in pint cold water with teaspoon salt, keeping covered, till holes come in top and water seems nearly all boiled away,taking care it does not scorch ; then add pint milk and boil moderately, stirring occasion- ally, until so thick the rice does not settle and there is a creamy substance round every grain, being careful not to break the grains. Take off, stir thoroughly, but gently, put into Avet cups and set on ice. Improved by boiling lemon peel and stick cinnamon with it, taking them out before putting in mold ; or when done stir in any flavoring liked. When milk is added some stir in cup stoned raisins. Serve either hot or cold on a platter with a Boiled Custard poured round, and a teaspoon jelly on top of each if liked. Or put into one or two large molds and serve with bits of jelly over. A simple but nice dessert. Or With Peaches boil double the quantity and when done, spread rice in a sheet half an inch thick on a large platter. Have read}'' a dozen large peaches peeled, halved and stoned ; put the halves together and cut the rice in pieces just large enough to wrap around them ; press into shape Avith hands, wet in cold water and wrap each ball in a cloth, tie to keep in shape and boil half an hour in plenty of boiling water. When done carefully remove the cloths without breaking the balls, and serve with any hot sauce. After boiling the rice as above, or using all water, some sweeten and flavor to taste, add beaten yolks of three eggs and stir over fire till mixture thickens, turn out on dish and mix in a little salad oil ; let cool in a sheet and cut into circles, or flatten pieces in palm of hand, put a stoned peach, plum, or spoonful of any pre- serves in center, shape into a ball, single-bread and fry in hot fat. Serve hot or cold with sauce. Or With Apples, boil seven table- spoons rice as above and let cool ; meantime pare, quarter and core eight good-sized apples and boil till tender in a syrup of a quarter pound sugar and half pint water, and drain on a sieve. Put a cup right side up in center of dish and pack the rice all around it, smoothing with back of a spoon to top of cup ; stick the apples into rice in rows, one row sloping to right and next to left. Set it in 762 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. oven to brown ; when required for table, remove the cup, garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle sufficient Boiled Custard to fill to top of rice, and serve hot. Or arr^jige apples cooked as above in a pyramid, with the boiled rice fillino; all spaces between, and garnish with green leaves. For Rice Sovfliey boil half cup rice in salted water ten minutes, then drain and put in cus- tard kettle with pint milk, tablespoon butter and cup sugar; boil half an hour or till rice is very soft, then beat to a smooth paste with wooden si)oon, add well-beaten yolks of five eggs and zest and half the juice from a lemon. If the paste is too firm add a little cream. \\'hen cold stir in the well-frothed whites of eggs and put mixture in pudding dish, Paper Cases or Patty Shells, sprinkle with sugar and bake about ten minutes. Serve with Snow Sauce as soon as taken from oven or it will fall. Or make with rice flour, stirring a half cup smooth with a little cold milk, add remainder of milk and butter and stir over fire until it thickens ; then take off fire, add sugar and flavor, stir in beaten yolks and whipped whites, sprinkle with sugar and bake as above. Sana Pudding. — Put one and one-half pints milk and rind of a lemon in saucepan and set on back of range until the milk is well flavoHMl with the lemon ; then strain, mix with it three tablespoons sago and six of sugar, and simmer gently about fifteen minutes. Let cool a little and add four well-beaten eggs and tablespoon and a half butter. Line the edges of pudding dish with Puff Paste, pour in the pudding, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake about an hour. Or With Aj^ples, pare and core six apples, and fill holes with cinna- mon and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to cup sugar ; take tablespoon sago to each apple, wash it thoroughly and let soak an hour in water enough to cover apples ; pour water and sago over ap- ples, and bake an hour and a half Or \Yith Raisins., soak cup sago in pint water on back of stove and after an hour place where it will simmer another hour ; stew cup raisins and quarter cup thinly-sliced citron in a little water an hour and a half and just before serving mix with the sago, adding grated rind and juice of a lemon, and juice of an orange, if wished. Serve with Sago Sauce. Snow Pudding. — Whip whites of six eggs and one-half pound pulverized sugar to a stiff froth ; i)ut in saucepan three pints cream and tliree-fourths cup sugar and set on stove till it comes to a boil, then draw to back of stove, flavor with teaspoon vanilla, and with two S})oons shape the meringue into balls, and drop into the boiling cn'am ; let brown slightly on both sides, then put on a sirve to drain. Put in a ])udding mold some fruit jelly — apple or any light colored jelly — about an inch deep, and set mold in ])an of chopped ice. Add beaten yolks of eight eggs to the hot cream, and stir well while cook- ing ; when done put on ice till cold ; then put on the jelly in the mold a layer of the snowballs, cover with the cream, then another layer PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 763 of the balls and so on till mold is full. Set on ice till very cold and gerve, turned out on platter, surrounded with Whipped Cream Sauce. Suet Piidding. — One cup each molasses, sweet milk, finely- chopped suet, or half a cup melted butter, and raisins, half cup cur- rants, two and a half cups flour and half teaspoon soda ; mix well, salt and spice to taste, steam two hours and serve with Spice Sauce. Sour milk may be used instead of sweet, and some make the pud- ding without the fruit, adding an egg or two. Or eggs may be added with the fruit. Others use a cup each sugar and hot water, and two teaspoons baking powder, instead of the milk, molasses and soda. Some prefer half cup each molasses and sugar to all molasses, and add teaspoon oatmeal or corn meal. For Hunter'' s Pudding^ take one pound each raisins, currants, suet and bread-crumbs, one-half pound sugar, eight eggs, tablespoon flour, one-fourth pound mixed candied peel, tablespoon each orange and lemon juice, ten drops essence of lemon and almonds, half a nutmeg, two blades of mace and six cloves. Stone and chop the raisins, chop the suet fine, and rub the bread until all lumps are well broken ; pound the spice to powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and almonds ; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well and add orange and lemon juice. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil six to eight hours. Serve with Custard or Currant Sauce. This will keep some time ; when wanted steam one hour and serve. Veal suet makes a more delicate pudding than beef. Or With Apples^ add a pound chopped apples and a dozen pounded almonds instead of raisins, candied peel and cloves. For a Ginger Suet Pudding, take half pound of flour, one-fourth pound each suet and moist sugar, two large teaspoons powdered ginger. Chop the suet very fine, mix it with the flour, sugar, and ginger; stir all well together; butter a basin, and put mixture in dr)/\ tie cloth over, and boil three hours Swiss Pudding. — Sift together two cups flour, heaping tea- spoon baking powder and small teaspoon salt; then cream cup granulated sugar and two tablespoons cold butter ; mix all together, make a wall in the mixture and add one egg, teaspoon lemon ex- tract, and just enough sweet milk to make a soft batter like cake. Pour at once into mold prepared by rubbing with cold butter, dust- ing with flour, shaking and then turning out unnecessary flour. Boil or steam three-quarters of an hour, or till a broom splint can be run in it. Serve hot with Cream Sauce. Tapioca Pudding. — This popular and beautiful dessert is pre- pared in a variety of ways. For an Eggless Tapioca soak cup tap- ioca in cup cold water overnight. In the morning add three cups cold water and cook very slowly until transparent. Slice half a '64 PUDDINGS AND SAUCE?. leinon yery thin, boil in very little water till tender and add all to the tapioca with sugar to taste and slight pinch of salt. Put in long Inittered tin, make a meringue of whipi^ed whites three eggs and three tablespoons poAvdered sugar and spread over top, browning with salamander or in oven. Serve cold, cut in squares with sweet- ened cream. Or cool in a buttered mold or cups and serve with whipi^ed cream. The lemon gives a fine flavor, and the thin slices in the transparent pudding have a i)leasing effect. Another nice pudding is Ap])le Taj^ioca., to a half cup tapioca, add one and one- half pints cold water; let stand on fire till cooked clear, stirring to prevent burning ; remove, sweeten and flavor with nutmeg ; pour the tapioca into a deep dish in which have been placed six or eight jiared and cored apples ; bake until apples are done and serve cold Avith cream. If not good cooking apples, first steam or bake them till tender. Some put bits of butter over them. Or the apples may be quartered or sliced and put in dish with the cooked tapioca in alternate layers; bake and serve as above adding a meringue over top, if desired. Make Peach 2\ipioca after either recipes for Apple Tapioca, using either fresh or canned fruit. When the latter is used add the syrup to water in which tapioca is to be cooked. For Co- coa-nut Tapioca, soak three tablespoons tapioca in a little water overnight, drain in the morning and add a quart milk. Boil ten minutes and add beaten yolks of four eggs, cup sugar and three tablespoons grated cocoa-nut. Boil five minutes longer and pour in buttered pudding dish and bake. To the whipped whites of eggs add four tablespoons sugar, spread over the pudding when done and sprinkle with cocoa-nut. Brown lightly and eat warm or cold with Cocoa-nut Sauce. Make exactly same, omitting cocoa-nut, for Cream Tapioca. Using half quantity milk and eggs makes a nice pudding. Vermicelli Pudding. — Boil four ounces vermicelli in one and a half pints milk, which has just been cooked with a little lemon rind and stick cinnamon, till tender ; add cup sugar, four eggs, three tablespoons butter and flavor with vanilla. Line sides of a buttered pudding dish with Puff Paste, put in mixture and bake in oven for three-quarters of an hour. Or With Marmalade., cover the vermi- celli with boiled milk, let stand ten minutes, then add two table- spoons marmalade, half cup stoned raisins, three eggs and lialf cup sugar, or sweeten to taste. Stir well together, put in a buttered dish, boil or steam an hour and a half and serve with Custard Sauce. Grandma TJwmpson''s White Pudding. — "Weigh equal quanti- ties best beef suet and sifted flour, shave suet and rub into fine par- ticles with the hands, removing all tough and stringy parts, mix well with the flour, season very highly with pepper, salt to taste, stuff loosely in beef skins (entrails cleaned like pork skins for sausage), half a yard or less in length, secure ends, prick every two or three inches with a darning needle, place to boil in kettle of cold water PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 765 hung on crane and boil three hours ; place on table until cold, after which hang up in cool place to dry ; tie in clean cotton bag, and put away where it will be hoth dry and cool. When wanted for use cut off quantity needed, boil in hot water until heated through, take out and place before the fire to dry off and "crisp". The above was con- sidered an "extra" dish at all the "flax scutchings," "quilting frol- ics," and "log rollings" of a hundred years ago. The same bj^neas- ure is as follows ; One pint best beef suet to two pints flour ; mix thoroughly, season very highl}^ with pepper and salt, sew up little sacks of cotton cloth half a yard long and three inches wide, fill nearly full, put to boil in hot water, boil from four to six hours ; when done, take out, drain, let cool, hang in a dr}', cool place, and when wanted for table, cut off as much as needed, put in hot water, boil until cooked through, take out, peel off" cloth, put in pie-pan and set in oven to brown. Some use half flour and half corn meal. WhortlebeTvy Pudding. — Stir together quart berries, pint molas- ses, cup milk, teaspoon soda, pound and two ounces flour, teaspoon cloves, one of cinnamon, and one nutmeg. Put in buttered mold with closely fitting cover and boil two and a half hours, or may be steamed in mold without a cover. Turn out and serve hot with Lemon Sauce. Or sift together two cups each flour and sugar, tAvo teaspoons baking powder, and with a knife chop half cup butter through the -mixture ; stir in quart of berries, dredged with flour, add three beaten eggs and half pint milk; put into buttered dish and bake half an hour in moderate oven. Serve hof with Arrow- root Sauce. Huckleberry and Blueberry Pudding made same. Roily Poly. — Make a nice crust as for rich baking-powder or soda biscuit, roll out in a long sheet half an inch thick and spread to within an inch and a half of -he edge with any kind of fresh, preserved, or dried and stewed fruit, or jelh'', jam or marmalade ; fold the edges over the fruit and roll it up, prick deeply with a fork, place on buttered plate and steam from one hour and a half to two hours ; or boil in a floured cloth, ^^^^^^ basting up the sides and tying the ends. rohj-po'j- Some do not turn edges in till after rolling, then tuck them in Avell. Serve cut in slices with Dip or Hard Sauce. For Apple., Orange and Peach Rolly-Poly the fruit should be sliced, and for Cherry., stoned ; sprinkle the fruit well with sugar, and some add bits of but- ter before rolling up, with a little grated peel over the oranges, and cinnamon or nutmeg over the apple. Some use Plain or Suet Paste or raised biscuit dough, rolling a quarter inch thick. This dessert may be varied by making into several small rolls, or shaping into balls with a siDoonful fruit in center of each. Some ' sprinkle in a few curraiits with the apples and use raisins with jelly, jam, apple butter or marmalade. For Fig Rolly-Poly spread with figs cut in 766 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. small pieces and for Lemon cook the pulp of three lemons with cup and a half sugar twenty minutes, then spread the dough and roll as above. Or some simply mix the juice with teaspoon each flour and sugar for each lemon and spread over the ])aste, or use tlie Lemon Butter. Chopped pie-i)hint, thickly sprinkled with sugar is nice used as alcove. A Dixie Rolhj-Fohi is made in two or three rolls, using any of above mixture for spreading, and placed in pan four or five inches deep with cup sugar, half cup butter and hot water enough to cover. Bake half an hour. Sararin. — Take quart sifted flour, make a well in center, and put in half ounce compressed yeast and two tablespoons lukewarm milk ; mix these together and stand sponge in warm place. When risen to twice its first size, put in gill warm milk and two eggs . With spoon work the mixture together and stir in one more egg; add three-fourths pound butter, teaspoon salt, tal^lespoon sugar, and another half gill warm milk. Still keep working mixture, and add an egg at a time till five have been used. Cut into small pieces two ounces candied orange peel and mix it in the paste. Butter a flut- ted cylinder mold, strew a tablespoon chop[)ed almonds on butter, and half fill mold with paste. Let it stand till it has risen to the top, bake, and when done, turn out. Serve with syrup poured over it, flavored as preferred. Or With Apples^ bake a savarin as above in cylinder mold eight inches across and when done turn it out on a tall dish so that it stands nearly one and a half feet high. Peel two good ap- plies, cut into small dice and boil them in syru)!. Peel and cut pears in same way, adding a drop or two prepared cochineal to color them. Peel and core seven more apples, halve them and Savarin witb Apples. boil lu svrup. Cut fourtccu sHccs pre- served pine-apple of the size of the apple pieces, warming them in some syrup. Place these pieces of apple and pine-apple alternately round the savarin. Cut into dice some preserved apricots, cherries, and greengages and boil a minute or two with a gill syrup and half a gill orange juice ; fill center of^circle made as above with this mix- ture and garnish with preserved cherries. Sauces. Arrowroot Sauce. — Mix two teaspoons arrowroot smoothly with half pint water ; put in saucepan, add three tablespoons sugar, juice of one lemon and quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg. Let boil, then serve. A gill of any fruit juice may be added if liked. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 767 Apricot Sauce. — Put one cup cream or milk in custard kettle ; when hot add tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smoothly with a little cold milk and cook fifteen minutes. Boil cup sugar and t«n table- spoons water half an hour; to this add half cup apricot pulp (can- ned or fresh fruit rubbed through a sieve), beat well and mix with the boiled milk. Place inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat for ten minutes, let cool. Peach, Sirawherry, Rabjjherry^ and any fruit may be prepared as above. Cape May Sauce. — Place gill milk in pan in boiling water and when scalding hot add half pint powdered sugar mixed with yolks of two eggs ; stir until thick as boiled custard, take off and when cool add flavoring to taste. Just before serving mix the well-beaten Avhites lightly with the sauce. If not liked so rich use double the quantity of milk and for Snoio Sauce use only the beaten whites, mixing in at first, and just before serving add half gill lemon juice. Caramel Sauce. — Make a caramel as on page 411 of three table- spoons sugar, watch carefully until it assumes a delicate brown color ; put into another saucepan three-quarters cup sugar, half the rind of a lemon cut thin, one inch stick cinnamon and three-quar- ters pint cold water ; bring these to a boil gradually ; simmer for ten minutes, add two tablespoons each lemon and orange juice, strain the liquid quickly into the caramel, mix thoroughly and serve. Cherry Sauce. — Stone pint cherries, crack stones, take out ker- nels and pound in mortar to smooth paste ; put tablespoon each butter and flour in saucepan and stir over fire till a delicate brown, then add cherries, the pounded kernels, four tablespoons orange juice and half pint water. Simmer gently fifteen minutes, or until cherries are cooked, and rub the whole through a puree sieve ; add a little grated lemon rind, powdered cloves and sugar to taste. Bring to boiling point and add two tablespoons lemon juice, then serve. This is a delicious sauce for Boiled Batter Pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured over the pudding. Chocolate Sauce. — Stir two ounces chocolate (grated) into half pint each cream and milk. Sweeten to taste, cook in custard ket- tle and add small piece vanilla bean. When hot beat into it yolks of four eggs till a good froth and cook till thick. Remove from fire, add well-whipped whites of four eggs mixed with tablespoon sugar, stirring in lightly without breaking up the snow-like look of the froth, and serve either hot or cold. Or to half pint of any boiled custard add one ounce grated chocolate. Cider Sauce. — Mix two tablespoons butter with a tablespoon flour; stir in half pint brown sugar, and half gill boiled cider; add gill of boiling water, mix well, simmer a few moments and serve hot 768 rUDDINCi? AND SAUCES. Cocoa-nut Sauce. — Two tablespoons butter, cup of sugar, table- spoon of flour, milk of one cocoa-nut, with a small piece grated. Cream. Sauce. — Beat to a cream three tablespoons butter, one cup granulated sugar in a l^owl and add half cup cream. Stir one egg, without beating, gently through the mixture and ])lace bowl inside of top of tea-kettle. When hot, flavor with tablesi)oon each lemon and orange juice or teaspoon vanilla, and serve. Or With- out Ef/gs^ use powdered sugar, omit tlie egg and stir constantly. Add flavoring and serve. For a less rich sauce a half cup boiling water may be added with the cream. For Cold Cream Sauce., beat together one cup sugar and half cup butter, and add a cuj) rich cream. Stir all to a cream, flavoring Avith vanilla or lemon, and place where it will get very cold before serving. For Whipped Cream Sauce, whip a pint of thick sweet cream, add beaten whites of two eggs, sweeten to taste; place pudding in center of dish, and surround with the sauce; or pile up in center and surround with small molds of l)lanc-mange, or fruit puddings. Currant Sauce. — Put in stewpan two tablespoons each butter and flour, and stir till a light l)rown, add a little water and a glass of currant or any fruit juice, or a spoonful of jelly beaten in a glass of water. For a Dried Currant Sauce, pick and wash three table- spoons nice currants, add quarter teaspoon ginger, the juice of half a lemon, and seven or eight lumps sugar, rubbed on the lemon rind. Simmer all these ingredients together till currants are soft. Serve without straining. Any tlried berries may be prepared same. Custard Sauce. — Four yolks of eggs, four tablespoons pow- dered sugar, grated rind of a lemon, four tablespoons any fruit juice or half and half lemon and orange juice, and a little salt. Beat (piickly over a slow fire, until it assumes a light, frothy custard. Dip Sauce. — One pint cream or lialf milk, three tablespoons sugai, and half a small nutmeg, grated. Egg Sauce. — Heat a pint milk to boiling and stir in tablespoon butter and four of sugar; take from fire and stir in yolks of four eggs lieaten with two tal)les]ioons cold milk, then add whipped whites of eggs, flavor with vanilla and serve immediately. Everg-day Sauce. — To pint boiling water, add heaping cup sugar, pinch salt, and tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smoothly with cold water ; season witli nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla or lemon ex- tract, boil two or three minutes, stirring all the time, add tablespoon butter and serve. If wanted very clear boil half an hour. For a Jellg Sauce add to above two teaspoons currant, grape, or any jelly beaten with one of water just before serving, omitting all other flavoring. For a Fruit Sauce add two tablespoons any fruit syrup. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 769 For Prairie Sauce, use two-thirds pint water, add another table- spoon butter and beat in whipped Avliito of an ep;^ just before serv- ing. Some add two whole eggs, well beaten. Milk may be used in- stead of water in any of above with half as much sugar. For a Lemon Sauce, add to the Ever3^-day Sauce half a lemon, thinly sliced. Adding a teaspoon each extract cloves, mace and ginger to the Every-day Sauce, makes a nice Spice Sauce. Foaming Sauce. — Melt cup sugar in little water, let boil, stir in two tablespoons each lemon and orange juice, and then the beaten whites of three eggs ; serve at once. Or Without Eggs beat half cup each butter and sugar to a frothy cream ; set dish in pan hot water, add tablespoon hot water, or more, if preferred ; flavor with vanilla, and stir one way till it becomes a very light foam. Fruit Sauce. — Cream a half pound butter, stir in three-quarters pound brown sugar, and beaten yolk of an egg ; simmer a few mo- ments over a slow fire, stirring alniost constantly; when near boil- ing add a half pint bottled grape or raspberry juice. Or beat four eggs and put in saucepan with two teaspoons flour smoothed in a little water, quarter pound sugar, and a pint fresh fruit juice, rasp- berry is nice. Put on fire and stir lightly till it thickens, and when it becomes light and frotliy serve at once. Golden Sauce — Cream two tablespoons butter and four of sugar ; add yolk of egg and stir all into half pint boiling water. Let- cook a few moments in a pan of hot water, then add beaten white slowly and serve. Flavor as preferred. Hard Sauce. — Beat cup white sugar, powdered is best, and half cup butter together until thoroughly mixed, the longer it is beaten the whiter it becomes. Place in glass dish nicely rounded and smoothed, with nutmeg cinnamon or grated orange or lemon peel sprinkled thickly over. Serve very cold. Or flavor with any ex- tract preferred, make into oval shapes with teaspoon and serve piled in a dish. Good for nearly all puddings and may be colored pink by adding a little fruit juice while beating. Some take equal parts butter and sugar, which makes the sauce very rich. In cold Aveather the butter will need to be softened a little. Flavor with pine-apple extract for Pine-apyle Hard Sauce ; form into pyramid, and by indenting with a teaspoon shape it like a pine-apple. Some add whipped white of an egg. For Lemon Hard Sauce, add juice of a whole or half a lemon according to size, using the grated peel as above. Make Orange Hard Sauce same, or select a thin orange, cut the skin into six equal parts, by cutting through at stem end and passing the knife around the orange to nearly the blossom end; loosen and turn each piece down and remove the orange. Extract juice and mix it with yellow sugar (prepared by dropping a droj) or 770 PUDDINGS AXD SAUCES. two of pold coloring on wLito suiriir while stirring it) till a ball can be formed, which ])hue in the orange peel and serve. The gold col- oring may be omitted. Lemon Sauce may be made same way. For Cocoa-nut Hard Sauce, add a tablespoon grated cocoa-nut to first recipe and also sprinkle with it. Lactlola Sauce. — Scald a half pint milk, add sugar to taste and teaspoon tiour or corn-starch mixed smooth with a little cold milk ; boil tNVO or three minutes, stirring constantly, remoye from fire, and add beaten yolks of two eggs and any flavoring liked. Or scald six tablespoons milk and pour oyer the well-beaten yolk of one egg, mixed Avith two tablespoons sugar; then pour this oyer the whip- ped whites beaten with two more tablespoons sugar. Flayor with nutmeg and serye either cold or hot. Lemon Sauce. — Stir taldespoon each flour and butter in sauce- pan oyer fire till mixture bul)bles,.pour in hot water — about a pint — slowly till sauce is thick as cream, add heaping tablespoon sugar, boil up once, add juice and grated rind of a lemon and serye. An egg or two or yolks of three or four may be added, and more sugar to sweeten to taste. For a richer sauce, take two cups sugar, two eggs, juice and rind of two lemons; beat all together, and just be- fore serving add pint boiling water ; set on stoye, and when at boil- ing point, serye. Never boil sauce after adding lemon, as it makes it bitter. vSomeadd one-third cup butter and tablespoon corn-starch. Or take six eggs, leaving out whites of two, half pound butter, pound sugar, juice and grated rind of two lemons; place over slow fire and stir till it thickens like honey. Very nice. Orange Sauce may be made same, using less sugar. Ma'plc-suqar Sauce. — Melt over slow fire, in scant cup Avater, half pint maple sugar ; let it simmer, removing all scum ; add four tablespoons butter mixed with a level teaspoon flour and one of grated nutmeg ; boil a few moments, and serve with boiled pud- dings. Or, make LLard Sauce of tablespoon butter to two of sugar. Marigold Sauce. — Four tablespoons butter, seven of best pow- dered sugar, half cup fruit juice, cup cream, half a nutmeg, yolks of six eggs ; scald cream in custard kettle, beat butter, sugar and eggs together; add nutmeg, pour hot cream over all, add juice and serve. Minnehaha Sauce. — Beat, in a two quart bowl, four tablespoons butter and two-thirds pint brown sugar, to a cream, with a wooden spoon ; then add four tablespoons sweet cream, then the juice and grated rind of a large lemon , place bowl in top of tea-kettle half full of boiling water ; when meltecl to a thick creamy froth, serve. Orange Sauce. — Beat whites of five eggs to stiff* froth, add coffee cup powdered sugar, juice of two oranges and grated rind of one. PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 771 Make Lemon Sauce same way. Or make in proportion of two eggs to one lemon and half cup sugar. Pine-apple Sauce. — Grate a pine-apple, add a very little water, simmer until quite tender, mix with it, by degrees, half its weight in sugar, boil gently for five minutes, and serve. Plain Sauce. — Make as White Sauce, page 178, using sugar in place of salt and pepper and adding a little grated lemon rind, nut- meg or powdered cinnamon. Boiling a few bitter almonds in the milk for half an hour, then straining and using as above is nice. Prune Sauce. — Boil a half pound best prunes in just enough water to cover till soft. Remove from pan, take out stones, break them in a mortar ; put these and the fruit, with four tablesoons any fruit juice, juice of a lemon and small piece of the peel, in sauce- pan ; add syrup in which prunes were boiled, a little sugar to taste. half teaspoon powdered cinnamon, and simmer seven or eight min- utes. Strain through a coarse sieve and add more water if too thick. Queen Sauce. — Boil pint water and scant three gills sugar half an hour; when cold, add gill orange and one-third of lemon juice. Or if wished hot add the juice just before taking from stove. Sago Sauce. — "Wash tablespoon sago in two or three waters and then put in saucepan, with third of a pint water and peel of a lemon ; simmer gently ten minutes, take out lemon peel, add strained juice of one lemon and two oranges with sugar to taste, and if liked a little cinnamon, give one boil and serve. This is a delicious sauce for boiled puddings. Saratoga Sauce. — Boil half cup each cream and milk, stir in heaping teaspoon corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold milk, and add two tablespoons butter beaten to a cream with five of sugar. Serve at once. Strawberry Sauce. — Half cup butter, one and half cups sugar, and pint strawberries mashed till juicy. Canned berries may be used. Beat butter and sugar to a cream ; then stir in berries and beaten white of an egg. Raspberry Sauce made same way. Or take two eggs, half cup butter, cup sugar and beat thoroughly to- gether with a cup boiling milk and one of berries. Vinegar Sauce. — Pint boiling water, cup sugar, tablespoon flour mixed smoothly in a little water, quarter of a grated nutmeg, and a pinch of salt ; let boil ten minutes ; just before serving add tablespoon butter and two tablespoons vijiegar. 772 SALADS. SALADS. Salads, when properly prepared, are very appetizing and whole- some, especially in tlie spring when the system needs the refresh- ing and tonic elements of the green salad plants. They may also be made very attractive additions to the table, and as will be seen by reference to the recipes Avhich follow are very easily prepared, re- quiring very little thought or labor and man}'- from the most simple ingredients, while some are quite inexpensive, utilizing odds and ends that frequently go to waste. The variety of salad materials is almost innumerable and may be divided into six classes ; salad plants, un- cooked and cooked vegetables, meats, fish, and fruits. For a list of the first, see Marketing. The excellence of a salad depends upon the fresh- ness of its materials, and the preservation of an equal flavor in the use of condiments ; the best salad is one in which no one flavor pre- dominates and the ingredients composing the salad must harmon- ize with the dressing. The importance of using none but the purest condiments must not be overlooked, for a perfect salad cannot be made with inferior ingredients. All vegetables must be carefully cleaned and if to be used uncooked, thoroughly cooled before dressing. Let- tuce should be carefully washed, as soon after picked as possible, in plenty of cold, salted water, rejecting all imperfect leaves, bei'ng careful not to bruise stems or leaves as it causes them to wilt, and left in clean, cold, salted water until fresh and crisp ; then wrapped in a clean wet cloth, and kept in a cool, dark place ; to lay it next ice in a refrigerator is an excellent way to keep it fresli and crisp. The salad in which lettuce is used should not be dressed until just SALADS. 773 before serving, because the lettuce wilts so soon after the dressing is applied ; the nicest small leaves should be reserved for decorat- ing, the larger ones should be laid around the sides and in bottom of salad bowl, and the rest torn apart with the fingers. Celery should also be carefully washed in plenty of cold, salted water, trimmed into lengths, wrapped in a wet cloth, and kept in cold place until wanted for the salad, when it should be cut into bits with a knife, not chopped. When celery cannot be had, chopped white cabbage, or head lettuce, shredded, may be used instead with celery seed. Frozen celery should be thrown into cold water while it is yet stiff; if it is allowed to partly thaw before putting into cold water it will be spoiled. All vegetables can be kept as above and crisped by placing in ice water an hour or two before serving. As- paragus, pease, and string beans for salads should be boiled in salted boiling water until tender, then drained and put into cold water at once, to preserve their color, and drained on a dry cloth to free from moisture before using. In preparing meat for salads it is much nicer to pick it or cut with a knife instead of chopping, always removing bits of gristle, fat and skin. Mixing Salads. — In preparing dressing, powder the hard-boiled eggs, either in a mortar with a wooden pestle or by mashing with back of salad spoon (if raw eggs are used beat well and strain), add seasoning, then oil, a few drops at a time, and, lastly and gradually, vinegar. The wooden salad fork and spoon are <^g^^_-- best to use in making salads, though silver may be used. Always use freshest olive salad oil, not common sweet oil ; a dark paper should be kept saua Fork and spooa. around the bottles of oil to shield them from the light, and they should be corked tightly enough to exclude the air and kept in a cool place. If oil can not be obtained, cream or melted butter is a good substitute and by some considered even more palatable, but when used it should be added last of all. All cooked dressings are better made in custard kettle, using great care in adding eggs, let- ting the mixture cool slightly, and adding slowly, lest they curdle. Then, whether cooked or uncooked, dressing should be made as cold as possible heioxQm\yi\x\g\\\i\i the salad, save when otherwise specified in recipes where cooked dressings are used. The quantity of oil and vinegar may be increased or diminished accordingto taste, as many persons prefer a smaller portion of the former, and when sugar is used the quantity will depend somewhat upon the acidity 774 SALADS. of the vinegar. In using raw eggs, the yolks make a richer dressing and when making a quantity it is economical to prepare it on bak- ing day, using the whites for cake. Appropriate dressings for each salad are suggested in recipes, but any dressing preferred may of course he used instead, AVhen mixed, green salads should be stir- red as little as possible, in order that their freshness may be pre- served until they are served. Borage, summer savory, chervil, nas- turtium, sorrel and endive (which must be blanched or it is bitter) may be added to green salads. In preparing meat salads, all the ingVedients, except the delicate green, if any is used, may be pre- pared the day before using if kept on ice or in cold place, but must not be mixed until an hour or two before serving. Then add the dressing and mix by tossing up lightly with a wooden or silver fork, turn into salad-bowl or on platter and shape into an oval mound, taking care to handle very lightly, never using the least pressure to get it into form ; then place on ice or in very cold place till ready to serve, as cold salad must be ice cold to be at its prime. Or mix only a part of the dressing with the salad and place remainder over the top. The salad is sometimes mixed with a plain dressing and a Mayonnaise placed over just before serving; or the entire dressing may be poured over the top. The ^layonnaise, or a cooked dress- ing is generally used with chicken, fish or meat salads, and most vegetable salads ; for green salads, lettuce, cress, etc., the French or any plain dressing is most appropriate. Serving Salads. — Green salads are usuall}- served in salad- bowl, also those arranged in layers, but for meat salads and com- bination of vegetables, as the Russian and Boston, the platter, is more often used, as it can be more handsomely garnished and pre- sents a more attractive appearance. Though suggestions for garn- isbing follow each recij^e, no exact rules can be given as the ma- terials mentioned may not always be at hand and much depends upon the individual taste and judgment. Wild flowers or nastur- tiums neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green, are very pretty (luring warm weather. During cold weather garnish with sliced (>ggs and ])retty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes, celery, etc. As handsome a garnish as we ever saw was as follows; in center of the hollowed halves of whites of boiled eggs was placed a spray or two of parsley, the stem stuck in egg, so it was held firmly; three of these halves were ])laced in center of salad, then rings of the white placed around salad with a spray of parsley in each ; celery tufts could he used instead of ])arsley. A nice way of serving isin Salad Shells; put two or three small lettuce leaves together in form of a shell, or take the cu})-shaped leaves, form cups and arrange on a platter ; or some place a folded napkin in salad-bowl, then cover with lettuce leaves to absorli the drippings from the ice and ])ut in the shells or cups with pieces of ice between ; put in each a table- spoon of the salad and over this a teaspoon of dressing. Or ar- SALADS. 775 rangefbus in individual dishes and place one at each plate ; this is a very simple and yet very attractive way of serving any salad, ex- cept a green salad. Fruit salads are generally served at breakfast ; vegetable and meat salads usually for tea and lunch or after meats at dinner. The cabbage, celery, cucumber, potato and green salads, are particularly appropriate for serving with meats, though some prefer to serve lettuce and celery salads after the meat course. The richer salads, like chicken, lobster and salmon are particularly nice for suppers and lunches, but are also served after meats at dinner. Bacon Dressing. — Cut half pound fat bacon in slices, then in very small pieces, and fry until fat extracted is a light brown ; re- move pan from fire, add juice of one lemon, four tablespoons strong vinegar, saltspoon pepper, and pour it over the salad with the pieces of bacon. A very nice dressing when oil is not to be had. Or heat two tablespoons bacon or pork fat, in custard kettle, s.tir in table- spoon flour, add half cup water and boil up once ; add half cup vin- egar, and tAvo eggs, beaten with half teaspoon salt, teaspoon each sugar and mustard and tablespoon lemon juice ; cook four minutes, stirring constantly, cool and use. Will keep two or three weeks in cold place if corked tightly. Or With Onion, fry two large slices onion, finely minced, in two tablespoons bacon or pork fat, until 3'^ellow, then add teaspoon each salt and sugar, quarter teaspoon pepper and half cup vinegar. Nice for Cabbage Salad. Bavarian Dressing. — Put half pint boiling water in custard kettle, add three tablespoons vinegar and place on stove. Beat three eggs lightly ; mix with a little cold water, tablespoon mustard, tea- spoon salt, pinch of cayenne and half tablespoon corn-starch, beat this mixture up with eggs, and stir it very slowly into the boiling water and vinegar, removing latter from stove in order to prevent possibility of curdling ; then return to stove and stir constantly un- til quite thick. Take from fire, add immediately a quarter pound butter and stir until it is thoroughly melted. Put yolk of an egg on plate, and with a fork, mix gradually with it gill olive oil, beat- ing it in well. When first mixture is cold, beat second into it. If more oil is desired, the yolk of another egg must be mixed with it. This recipe will make about a pint. Bohemian Dressing. — Beat yolks of eight eggs, add cup sugar, tablespoon each salt, mustard, and black pepper, a little cayenne, half cup cream, and mix thoroughh' ; bring to a boil a pint and a half vinegar, add cup butter, and when melted pour upon the mix- ture, stir well, and when cold put into bottles and set in cool place. Will keep weeks in hot weather ; is excellent for cabbage or lettuce. Bouillon Dressing. — To one pint boiling water, or veal, fish or chicken broth add a small, scraped carrot and half an onion, sliced, half bay leaf, celery root cut in pieces, seven cloves, five whole all- 776 SALADS. spice, fifteen pepper-corns and quarter teaspoon white mustar(iseed ; simmer fifty minutes, adding a little more -water if needed ; strain and cool. To each gill liquid add a gill vinegar, teaspoon sugar, and pour over any salad wished. For Jellied Bouillon Dreissing, add to this, third of box gelatine soaked in cold water, and to each quart of liquid the white and shell of an egg ; when just commencing to boil place on back of range and simmer seven minutes or until it looks clear as inclarif3'ingsoup ; strain and use as directed in Gelin- ola Salad. When vinegar is strong do not use more than two-thirds as much. Doul)le this recipe makes a pint of bouillon and this with two-thirds pint vinegar, two-thirds box or ounce and a third gela- tine and a box sardines makes a quart mold of Sardine Salad. Cream Dressing. — Three eggs, tablespoons olive oil or melted butter, and two of mustard, cup each sweet cream and vinegar, tea- spoon each salt and pepper; mix mustard and oil, then eggs well- beaten, cream, vinegar, salt and pepper, all together; put mixture in custard kettle and boil gently until thick as cream ; when done, put in quart jar, cork tightly, and it will keep for months. Can be used for all kinds of salads and slaws, A tablespoon sugar may be added if liked. If to be used immediately make only half or a third of the recipe, and add beaten egg and cream after taking from fire. Some use only the yolks of eggs, and add a small onion chopped very fine, or for B^je Beach Dressing, put half pint sweet cream in custard kettle ; wlien hot, add tablespoon corn-starch or two-thirds as much flour, cook three minutes, add tablespoon sugar, remove from fire and when slightly cooled add the well-frothed whites of two eggs. When cold, add tablespoon oil, teaspoon each salt and mustard, pinch cayenne, or saltspoon white pepper and third of a pint vinegar. For Eggless Cream Dressing, prepare cream as above add tablesi)oon butter mixed smooth with a tablespoon and a half flour, cook two or three minutes ; take off fire, add tablespoon more butter, stir till well mixed, add vinegar and seasoning as above, omitting the oil. Addition of lemon juice, minced onion, parsley, chopped pickle, etc., may be made as wished. To make a Cold Cream Dressing stir to a cream one egg, cup rich sweet cream, and tablespoon sugar and add half cup vinegar with mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Set on ice till ready to serve. Or use yolks of two or more eggs, and lemon juice instead of vinegar, if preferred, and add two tablespoons salad oil. For Sour Cream Dressing, mix in a saucepan one pint sour cream, as free from milk as pos- sible, and half pint good vinegar, pepper, salt, a small piece of but- ter, sugar, and a level tablespoon mustard ; boil, add well-beaten 3'-olks of two eggs, stirring carefully until consistency of starch, then set in cool place or on ice, and when cold pour over salad and mix well. For an uncooked dressing take cup sour cream, teaspoon each salt and sugar, talilespoon lemoii juice, three of vinegar, small pinch cayenne, and mix together thoroughly. Best for vegetables. SALADS. 777 Creole Dressing. — To three quarters pint tomato pnlp obtained by rubbing cooked tomatoes through a puree sieve, add tablespoon arrowroot or corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold water. Boil ten minutes in custard kettle, add tablespoon butter, half teaspoon each sugar and salt, quarter of white pepper and two or three table- spoons vinegar. Use either hot or cold. Eggless Dressing. — Boil cup vinegar with half cup sugar, butter size of egg, tablespoon ground mustard, and salt and white pepper to taste. Let cool before adding to salad. A cup cream may be added when taken from fire. French Dressing. — Mix thoroughly together six tablespoons oil, two saltspoons salt, half saltspoon white pepper and two tal)le- spoons vinegar. A pinch cayenne may be added. For an Italian Dressing add teaspoon each chopped onion and pickle. For Eng- lish Dressing add to French Dressing a teaspoon prepared mustard. Lactiola Dressing. — Four tablespoons butter, one of flour, one of salt, one of sugar, heaping teaspoon mustard, pinch of cayenne, cup milk, half cup vinegar, three eggs. Heat the butter in custard kettle, add flour, and stir until smooth, being careful not to brown, then add milk, and boil up. Beat eggs, salt, pepper, sugar and mus- tard together, and add vinegar. Mix with boiling mixture, and stir until it thickens like soft custard. Let cool, and when cold, bottle and place in ice chest. This will keep two or three weeks. Or take same proportions of other ingredients using oil instead of butter. Stir the oil, salt, mustard and sugar in a bowl until per- fectly smooth ; add the egg and beat Avell, then the vinegar and lastly the milk. Cook in custard kettle eight or ten minutes, let cool and serve . Or if wanted richer and for immediate use take half as much vinegar and milk, beat the eggs separately and just before taking from fire add the whipped whites and let cool, stirring once or twice. Mayonnaise Dressing. — Take yolks of two eggs, two saltspoons salt, one of white pepper or pinch of caj^enne, teaspoon dry mustard, half pint olive-oil and about three tablespoons vinegar. To prevent danger of curdling, beat with a wooden spoon the yolks, salt, pep- per and mustard together, before adding the oil which must be stir- red in graduall}'', a few drops at a time, taking care to blend each portion with the egg before adding more, stirring constantly, until a thick paste is formed, and the mixture has a glossy instead of velvety appearance ; then add a few drops vinegar, stirring all the time, until of the consistency of thick cream ; stir in more oil in drops until the mayonnaise is stifT again, when a few drops vinegar should be beaten in and so continue alternating until all the oil is used, adding vinegar rather cautiously at the last so that when fin- ished the mayonnaise will be stiff enough to remain on top of the 778 SALADS. salad. The dressing should be stirred one way, as reversing the current causes it to curdle. Lemon juice may be used injstead of vinegar, or a few drops may be added with the vinegar. This is the smoothest and richest of salad dressings, the oily flavor is entirely lost in combination Avith the raw egg. Fifteen or twenty minutes are usually required for putting the ingredients together. Care must be taken not to add too much oil at first or the mayonnaise will curdle. When this happens, beat the yolks of one or two more eggs on another plate, add to them the curdled mayonnaise by de- grees, and finish by adding more oil and vinegar or lemon juice. Some think there is less danger of curdling if the addition of vine- gar is begun when only a little oil has been used. After all ingred- ients are thoroughly mixed the addition of a cup whipped cream en- riches the dressing, and some add a teaspoon or two sugar. This sauce keeps well, if bottled and corked with a glass stopper, and it may be made at any time in advance when yolks are left over from baking. In summer, place oil and eggs in cold place half an hour before making. The well-beaten white of an egg maybe added to the dressing just before using. To make Red Mayonnaise^ add lobster coral, pounded to a powder and rubbed through a sieve, or use juice from boiled beets. For Green Mayonnaise, add Spinach or Parsley Coloring, and usetaragon vinegar. If liked any of the flavored vinegars given in Pickles may be used instead of the plain. For Sardine Dressing add to the above the yolks of four liard- boiled eggs pounded in a mortar with three sardines Avhich liave been perfectly freed from bones, A nice dressing for fish. Butter can be used instead of oil in any mayonnaise dressing, by first creaming it, and adding slowly a well-beaten egg. Minnehaha Dressing. — Dissolve tablespoon mustard in a little vinegar, then add a little more of latter till a half pint is used ; mix in this gill sugar, more if wished sweeter, and two tablespoons soft, l)ut not melted, butter ; let boil, place on back of range and add yolks of six eggs or four whole ones, as directed in Mixing Salad. When done, and iee cold })our over any salad wished, but especially nice for Tip-Top Salad. This dressing keeps nicely when corked tightly. Less eggs may be taken, using a teaspoon corn-starch for each egg omitted. Orange Dressing. — Beat together two and a half gills orange and gill lemon juice, add five tablespoons fine granulated sugar and beaten white and shell of half an egg ; cook in custard kettle ten minutes, strain and when cold pour over the salad. For Jpllied Orange Dressing, add to above mixture when half done, third of a box gelatine, (two-thirds of an ounce) soaked in seven tablesi)ooi)s cold water, strain and use as directed in Gelinola Salad. For Basp- herry Dressing, make as first recipe, using two and a half gills rasp- SALADS. 779 berries and one gill currant juice ; for Jellied Rasphevry Drenfiing, make as second recipe. Water may be added to juice if wished. Potato Dressing. — Peel one large potato, boil, mash until all lumps are out, and add yolk of a raw egg ; stir all well together and season with a teaspoon mustard and little salt ; add about half gill olive oil and vinegar, putting in only a drop or two at a time, and stirring constantly, as success depends on its smoothness. Swedish Dressing. — Yolks of two eggs beaten thoroughly, level teaspoon salt, one of pepper, two of white sugar, two of prepared mustard, tablespoon butter ; add four tablespoons best vinegar, put in custard kettle and stir constantly till it thickens ; when cool it is ready for use. This is sufficient for one quart finely-chopped cab- bage, and for that should be poured over while hot, thoroughly mixed Avith it and served when cold. Sioiss Dressing. — Mash the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, with two teaspoons each white pepper and made mustard, one of salt and a pinch of cayenne ; add three tablespoons melted butter or salad oil, a few drops at a time, and when smooth stir in a well-beaten egg, and gradually add cup vinegar, or use half lemon juice. Some use only the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs, and stir in beaten yolks of two eggs at the last instead of the whole egg. A tablespoon sugar may be added, and cream or clarified chicken fat may be used instead of oil or butter, adding twice the quantity of cream. Or for a Foam Dressing stir in first recipe the w'hipped white of an egg just before serving, having added tablespoon sugar. Anchovy Salad. — Wash, skin and bone eight salted anchovies soak in cold water, or water and milk, an hour, then drain and drv, them. Arrange lettuce leaves neatly in salad bowl and over them put the anchovies and two sliced hard-boiled eggs, pour a French or any plain Dressing over and serve. If preferred, the fish may be chopped or cut into strips. Apple Salad. — Slice very tart apples and mix with young onions, chopped, place on a dish and pour a French Dressing over. Or for Apple^nd. Celery Salad mix equal quantities sliced aj)ples and cut celery and pour over any dressing preferred. Asparagus Salad. — Scrape if necessary, and wash asparagus, and boil soft in salt water ; drain off water, add pepper, salt and strong cider vinegar, and then cool. Before serving, arrange as- paragus so that heads will all lie in center of dish ; mix the vinegar in which it was put after removing from the fire with good olive oil or melted butter, and pour over the asparagus. Or pour over the Eggless Dressing. Or arrange the asparagus in center of dish with border of caulifiower, first cooked in salt water and cooled, and pour over Cream or Mayonnaise Dressing. Or after cooking the aspara- 780 SALADS. gus put in cold water as directed in preface, cut in inch pieces and serve as above. Garnish with capers. Bean Salad. — String young beans, break into half-inch pieces (or leave whole), wash and cook soft in salt water ; drain well, add finely-chopped onions, pepper, salt, and vinegar; Avhen cool add ^^^'^•r^S^ ^^SS ^' ■»' oli^'e-oil or melted butter. The onions may be ^^0SJMttjSt^^ omitted. Or when beans are cold slice them ^^^^^^WM^ lengthwise, cutting each bean into four long slices ; ^ Bean Salad. placc theui ucatly, tbe slices all lying in one di- rection, crosswise on a platter. Season them an hour or two before serving, with a marinade of a little pepper, salt, and three .spoonfuls of vinegar to one spoonful of oil. Just before serving, drain from them any drops that may have collected and carefullymix with the Italian Dressing. For Lima Bean Salad, boil quart Lima beans in salted water till tender, drain and put in salad bowl with three hot boiled potatoes cut in slices, chop a stalk celery and sprinkle over, then cover with the English Dressing, set in cool place or on ice and when cold serve. A little cold boiled tongue may be added if liked. To make salad from dried beans, soak the beans and boil in salted water until done, but not broken ; when cold, add grated onion and chopped parsley to taste, and the French Dressing. _ Borate Salad. Prepare as lettuce, add a few leaves sorrel, a sprig or two each chervil, tarragon and parsley and teaspoon chop- ped chives ; pour over a French Dressing and serve. Or for a Mixed Salad, take 0(|ual jvirts borage, lettuce and sorrel, add one or more of the herbs and dress as above. Cahhage Salad. — Two quarts finely-chopped cabbage, two level tablespoons salt, two of Avhite sugar, one of- pepper, and a heaping one of ground mustard ; rub yolks of four hard-boiled eggs until smooth, add half cup butter, slightly warmed ; mix thoroughly with tbe cabbage, and add cuj) good vinegar ; serve with whites of eggs sliced and placed on salad. Or mix with the cho])ped cabbage any hot dressing ; the Cream Dressing and the Bacon Dressing with onions are both nice with cabbage. Some add ten cbopped hard- l)oiled eggs to the cab])age, or chopped celery in the proportion liked, mixing with either any dressing preferred. Tip-top Salad is made by letting the two quarts chopped cabbage soak in salted water, two tal)lespoons salt to quart water, an hour or longer ; meantime making tbe Minnehaha Dressing and mixingit with thecabbage after draining in colander, pressing well with potato masher to extract all the water ; toss lightly with fork and serve. A little cliopped celery soaked with the cabbage is an improvement as it harmonizes perfectly and a quantity may be made up for it keeps nicely in a tightly cov- ered jar. iSlany preferto omit the mustard from this as well as all Cabbage Salads, thinking the cabbage possesses enough of that bit- ing flavor in itself. Or heat scant cup vinegar, and when boiling add SALADS. 781 taMespoon each butter and sugar, teaspoon essence of celery and white pepper and salt to taste ; then stir in a small head cabbage, chopped or sliced fine and scalding hot, but do not boil. Meantime have a cup sweet milk heated to boiling, stir in two well-beaten eggs and cook till it thickens. Put the cabbage in salad bowl, turn the custard over it and stir in quickly, tossing up with silver fork until thoroughly incorporated. Cover to keep in the strength of vinegar and set on ice. Serve perfectly cold garnished with sliced hard- boiled eggs and tufts of green alternated with red pickled beets ; using the white of eggs in rings and filling center with the beets cut to fit, or in any fancy shape makes a pretty ornament. For Pepper Salad^ add chopped green peppers removing seeds, to cabbage shaved fine and serve with a Swedish Dressing. Celery Salad. — Cut off the root end of three heads of blanched celery, wipe each stalk carefully, cui into small pieces, put in salad bowl, place a Potato or Mayonnaise Dressing over and serve. May be garnished with white celery leaves or water cresses, or arrange on a flat dish and encircle with points of pickled beets. Another salad is made by mixing a head of cabbage with three bunches celery, first chopi^ing both fine and add any dressing preferred. Chicken Salad. — Boil three chickens until tender, salting to taste ; when cold cut in half-inch pieces, rejecting all fat, gristle and skin and add twice the quantity of celery washed and cut up with a knife but not chopped, and four cold-boiled eggs sliced and thor- oughly mixed through the other ingredients. For dressing, put on stove a saucepan with pint vinegar and butter size of an egg, and beat two or three eggs with one tablespoon mustard, and white pep- per, two of sugar and teaspoon salt, and when thoroughly beaten together pour slowly into the vinegar until it thickens. Be careful not to cook too long or the egg will curdle. Remove, and when cold pour over salad, mixing it lightly through with wooden or silver fork, adding pinch of cayenne and juice of one or two lemons. Taste to ascertain if rightly seasoned, and add more vinegar and salt as needed. All may be prepared the day before, mixing a short time before using. If a very delicate salad is wanted use only the white meat. Some use half as much celery as chicken, others equal quantities and some one and a half or twice as much of for- mer as latter, and the proportions may be otherwise varied to suit the taste of individuals. Some use half celery and half lettuce, and either cabbage, lettuce or chopped pickled cucumbers may be used instead of celery, adding two tablespoons celery seed, but the salad will not be so nice. The celery and chicken should be cut in same- sized pieces, but never chop either, as if cut too fine the salad be- comes an unsightly hash. Some use only the whites of hard-boiled eggs in the salad, and add the mashed yolks to the dressing, or use latter in the salad and the whites cut in rings as a garnish; both raw and boiled eggs may also be omitted from dressing. Olives 782 SALADS. are liked by some in chicken salad. The dish may be very taste- fully garnished with sliced lemon, boiled beets sliced and cut in fancy shapes, hard-boiled eggs in slices, or use the white rings and yolk slices separately, small pickled cucumbers, olives, strips of anchovies, and small lettuce leaves, celery or parsley ; combining any two or more as fancy dictates. When preparing for a large company, turkey may be used to better advantage than chicken, there being so much more meat in same number of pounds. If either turkey or chicken is allowed to cool in water in which it is boiled the meat will be more juicy and tender than if taken from the water as soon as done. The liquor makes very excellent soup. Avith the usual additions, and should be saved for this purpose, Some claim that chicken salad made after the following rule can be mixed two or three '.l;.ys before using: Boil one chicken tender and chop the meat i-Mdcrately fine, also the whites of twelve hard- boiled eggs, r.dd >^>■.'^l quantities of chopped celery and cabbage; mash the j'olhi:, i "-.o, r.du tv/o tablespoons butter, two of sugar, one teaspoon mustam, ^cppcr and salt to taste, and lastly half cup good cider vinegar ; peur over salad v-^nd mix thoroughly. The Philadel- phia Drcscinn is considercc5 very nice and is made by adding to one pino ''x-'ling water a heaping tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smooth in c K"* water; when well thickened add two tablespoons from the top of the chicken-liquor. Remove to back of range or table and add th: beatonyolks of five eggs and continue to stir till almost cold. Prepare a thin dressing by rubbing yolks of three hard-boiled Cgrrs, very fine, adding tablespoon each made mustard and pulverized sugar and salt to taste, w'ith a pinch of cayenne and teaspoon any bottled sauce. Then add two tablespoons salad oil and half pint vinegar, three or four drops at a time of each, alternat- ing ac: in Mayonnaise Dressing. Pour two-thirds of this over the celery and chicken, toss up lightly, put in di:jh and add the rest of thin dressing to the first mixture, mixing and placing it over the top of salad. For Mayonnaise Chicken Salad., prepare the chicken as above, place in earthen bowl and to every quartadd two tablespoons vinegar, one of oil, half teaspoon salt and quarter teaspoon pepper. Set away in cold place an hour or two ; prepare --^f.zJ0^sj.0 ^ the celery as directed, in the proportion liked, and ^^^'^.'^^"^^^ put in ice-box or other cool place until time to ^ ^jgj^^-^rj:^ serve. Make a Mayonnaise Dressing, mix the cwcken saiad. chicken and celery together with a part of the dressing, arrange in a smooth mound on flat dish, pourremaindar of ^Inyonaise over, and garnish with white celery leaves, reserved for this purpose, with a little bouquet of the leaves stuck on top, encircling with rows of capers and bordering with slices of hard-boiled eggs as shown in cut. Or when mixing the chicken and celery add half gill vinegar and a gill and a half salad oil to each quart salad, with pepper and salt to taste ; then make iuto a mound or place on a bed of lettuce leaves, SALADS. 783 as above, and pour the Mayonnaise Dressing over. When making for large parties, or when the chicken is dry from having been cut up too long, first pour a Plain Dressing over the salad, let stand au hour or two and drain before dishing and adding the Mayonnaise. But when lettuce leaves are used, the vinegar or plain dressing must be poured over the chicken alone as the lettuce wilts so soon, and must be added only j ust before dishing for table. Crah Salad. — Boil three dozen hard-shell crabs twenty-five minutes, let cool, remove top shell and tail, and quarter the remain- der. Pick the meat out carefully with nut-pick or kitchen fork, tak- ing that also from the large claws, and the fat which adheres to the top shell ; add an equal quantity cut celery and mix with a few spoonfuls French Dressing, then put in salad bowl and mask it with Mayonnaise Dressing. Garnish with the claws, shrimps and hard- boiled eggs alternating with tufts of green. For Craiv-fish Salad, cook and prepare the fish as above, removing the tail part, splitting in two and taking out the black ligament. Put in salad bowl on bed of shred lettuce, pour ]\Iayonnaise Dressing over, garnish with head part of shells, hard-boiled eggs and tufts of green, and serve. Cucumber Salad. — Put the cucumbers on ice until Avanted and m paring them take care to remove all the green inner portion of the skin, which is very bitter, first cutting off the end where so much of the bitter juice is secreted, and pare them lengthwise. For the simplest of cucumber salads, after paring slice very thin, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let stand ten minutes ; or lay them in cold, salted water an hour before serving ; then drain on a cloth, sprinkle over a half teaspoon pepper and cover with vinegar ; or pour a French or Cream Dressing over. Or after preparing the cucumbers as above mix two tablespoons salad oil or ham gravy with as much vinegar and teaspoon sugar, and add to the cucumbers with teaspoon pepper, stirring well. For Cucumher and Onion Salad mix sliced or chopped onions with the cucumbers, put the dressing in bottom of salad bowl, place the sliced cucumbers in middle with onions around, and mix the dressing when serving. Lactiola Dressing is nice for this salad. For Radish Salad prepare and dress radishes same as cucumbers, adding a little sugar to modify their sharpness. A simple and agreeable Fruit Salad is made by combining goose- berries or barl)erries with young onions and cucumbers, sliced, serv- ing with any plain dressing. Egg Salad. — Put the small crisp leaves of a head of lettuce in salad bowl, slice four hard-boiled eggs over them and over these sprinkle a dozen chopped capers; serve with Sour Cream Dressing poured over all. Or chop two large heads of lettuce coarsely with eight hard-boiled eggs and mix with a small cup rich sweet cream, or two tablespoons best salad oil, with vinegar, mustard, pej^^er and salt to taste. A small head of cabbage may be substituted for the 784 SALADS. lettuce, but the cabbage must be thinly shaved with a sharp knife, not chopped. Cheese Salad is made the same, using finel}'- minced cheese instead of eggs, and always making with lettuce. Serve with Eggless Dressing. A Mint Salad is maut plate in pot bottom side up ; then put ingredients in layers, with ])ork at bottom, then onions, po- tatoes, tomatoes, clams and crackers, season with pepper and salt, SHELL-FISH. 799 pour over this the liquor from clams and repeat the process, adding chopped parsley to taste. Cover with Avater and boil from half to three quarters of an hour. Some prefer to put the clams in whole, and the potatoes are often parboiled or cold cooked ones may be used. The tomatoes may be omitted and bread-crumbs used in- stead of crackers. Half oysters and half clams may be used, add- ing the liquor from both, or a third each fish, oysters and clams. Chowder can be made of either hard or soft-shell clams. Clam Pie. — Take three pints either hard or soft-shell clams (if large, chop slightly), put in saucepan and bring to boil in their liquor, adding a little water if needed ; have ready four medium- sized potatoes, boiled till done and cut in small squares; make a nice pie paste with which line medium-sized pudding dish half way down sides ; turn small cup bottom uj) in middle of dish to keep up top crust ; put in first a la3^er of clams, then a few potatoes and season with bits of butter, a little salt and pepper, and dredge with flour ; add another layer of clams, and so on till dish is filled, add- ing juice of clams, and a little water if necessary (there should be about as much liquid as for chicken-pie). Cover with top crust, cut slits for steam to escape, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Clam Stew. — Take half peck hard-shell clams, wash shells clean, and put in kettle with about a cup water ; steam until shells open, Avhen take out of shell, strain juice, and return it with clams to fire ; after they come to a boil, add pint milk or water, piece of butter size of egg, three crackers rolled fine, pepper, and salt if any is needed. Boil up once and serve hot. Nice poured over toast. Some use only the soft part of clams and first make a white sauce by mixing tablespoon each butter and flour over the fire, adding gradually pint hot milk or milk and water, and season with salt and pepper ; then put in soft parts of clams, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes Avhere they will not burn. For Boiled Cla7ns^ select thin-edged ones. Wash carefully and put in pot over hot fire, M'ith A^ery little water, so as to save their juices ; when they open, leave juice in pot, remove clams from shells and put clams back in; add butter, pepper, and very little salt, and boil ten minutes. Serve hot. Fried Crahs. — Procure soft-shell crabs, alive if possible, as shells harden within twenty-four hours after being killed. To pre- pare for cooking, lay the crab on its back, lift up the apron or flap near the back of the shell, take out all spongy and fibrous portions, and by lifting the shell at both sides remove same substance from the back, cut a semi-circle from the head, including the eyes and sand-bags. "Wash in cold salted water, dry on clean towel, season inside and out with salt and pepper and fry light brown in fresh butter or lard. Or double-bread them and fry by immersion. Some bread them by dipping into milk for first wetting. Serve garnished with crisped parsley or sliced lemon. Mnyonnaise Sauce is nice 800 SHELL-FISH. witli this dish. Broiled Crabs are nice if first dipped in melted butter, seasoned with pepper and salt. Some drop them into hot water for one minute, then broil. Serve with Drawn Butter or Tartare Sauce. Deviled Ci'ahs. — Pick the meat from boiled crabs, cut in fine bits and mix with all the creamy white substance and green fat, add one-third as much bread-crumbs, two or three chopped hard-boiled eggs, and lemon juice ; season with pepper, salt, and butter, and add enough cream, stock or water to moisten. Clean shells nicely and fill with the mixture, sprinkle over with bread crumbs and small bits of butter, and brown in oven. Must be served either very hot or i»erfectly cold. x\rrange siiells on platter with sprig parsley in top of each, and send cream crackers on with them. Lobsters may be i)repared and served same. Some like the addition of a very lit- tle shallot and parsley chopped fine. Boiled Lobster. — Put in boiling water, Avith little salt, and boil till cooked through and shell turns red; rub shell with sweet oil after wiping to brighten color. Split body and tail through, crack claws and it is ready to serve, but must be cut up fine before eating. A dressing made of salt, mustard, oil, cayeime pejjper and vinegar, mixed with the yolk of an egg, is usually prepared for it. The white of a hard-boiled egg may be minced fine and strewn over it. Boiled CVr^Zi-s a re prepared and served same, procuring the hard-shelled, and be- iiv..i.a Lob~t,r. ii^o careful to remove eyes, soft fins, etc., before cooking. The meat is often picked from shell before sent to table and served with salt, pepj^er, lemon juice or vinegar, or any good table sauce, or heat it in White Sauce, or with butter, vinegar and a rather high seasoning. Broiled Lobster. — Cut tail part of lobster in two, rub a little sweet (>il over the meat and broil. When done, brush a little butter over it with juice of half a lemon and a very little cayenne. Put meat back in shell and send to table with dish of broiled tomatoes and fresh baked potatoes. Or cut tail in square pieces, cut a few thin slices bacon into squares a little larger than the lobster; place on a skewer alternately and broil ; baste as above and send to tal)le on bed of water-cresses. Deviled Lobster.— Take the meat from boiled lobsters as di- rected in Lobster Salad and chop fine, or cut into fine dice, reserv- ing the coral. Rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar until thin enough to pour easily. Season the lobster meat highly with mustard, cayenne, salt, and sharp sauce. Toss up with a fork until SHELL-FISH. 801 mixed, and put in covered saucepan with only enough hot water to keep from burning; boil up ooce and stir in prepared coral, add ♦^blespoon butter and when it reaches boiling point take from fire. Do not cook too much or meat will bo tough. May be served hot in deep dish or put back in shells, or in baking dish, covered with bread-crumbs and bits of butter and browned in oven. If to be served in shells, be careful in opening not to break the body or tail of shells, which must be washed and dried, rubbed with oil, and if two lobsters are used may be put together in form of a boat. Some chop a little parsley and shallot with the meat, add a few drops essence anchovies, tablespoon vinegar, cayenne pepper and salt, and a little Cream or Bechamel Sauce ; boil all well together, add beaten yolk of an egg, put in the shells, cover with bread-crumbs and bits of butter and brown twenty minutes in oven. Or, boil a pint ofci-eam or milk and stir with it two tablespoons flour and one ~ of mustard mixed smooth with three tablespoons hot cream ; cook two minutes, add meat from two lobsters with salt, pepper, and pinch cayenne, boil one minute, put in shells as above, brown in oeriied LoVstTr. - ovcu aud scrvB on long narrow platter, with body in center and tails at each end, garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. The prepared meat left over is nice re- heated and served on slices of toast for breakfast. For Scalloped Lohstei\ omit the mustard in last recipe, put the mixture in buttered dish or scallop shells and finish as above. White Stock or water may be used instead of milk or cream and some prefer to thicken with corn-starch. Canned lobster ma}'^ be used in any of above recipes. Moasted Lobster. — When lobster is half cooked, remove from water and rub thoroughly with butter, put in heated pan in hot oven and baste constantly with butter until it has a fine froth and shell is dark brown. Place on dish and serve with melted butter. Lohster Croquettes. — Chop meat of a boiled lobster fine with quarter as much bread as meat ; add pepper, salt, and mace if liked, make into pointed balls jvith two tablespoons melted butter, single- bread them and fry in butter or lard. Serve dry and hot and garn- ish with crisp parsley. Delicious entree, or supper dish. Lobster Cutlets. — Prepare the cutlets as directed in Cape ^lay Salad, single-bread them, taking care to have every part covered, place in frying basket and fry in hot fat till a rich brown — about two minutes. Drain, arrange on hot dish with part of a claw in each to re})resent bones in cutlets, and garnish with crisped parsley. White or Bechamel Sauce may be served around cutlets if liked. Ragout of Lobster. — Cut meat of boiled lobster install pieces; ).x)und spawn to a smooth paste, with two tablespoons butter, salt, 802 SHELL-Kisn. pepper and a little mace. Put a gill water in saucepan, thicken with two well-beaten eggs; add the spawn and stir over fire briskly ten minutes. Add lobster meat, boil up once and serve very hot. Broiled Ousters. — Dry large, selected oysters in a napkin, salt and pepper them and broil on a fine folding wire-broiler, well but- tered to prevent sticking, turning frequently to keep the juice from wasting. Serve immediately in hot dish with bits of buttei :)\-\ them. Or, dry the oysters in a napkin, dip each in butter previously salted and peppered, roll well in sifted cracker-du.st or bread-crumbs, let lie a few minutes, dip again in melted butter, roll in crumbs and broil over good fire from 'axa to seven minutes, not very brown or they will not be so juic)', and serve immediately in hot dish with butter, pepper and salt, or on nice diamond-shaped pieces of toast, with lit- tle melted butter on each. Yov Broiled Ousters in Shell, select large shells, ™'''°« ^"' '''"^""• clean with a brush, open, saving juice, and put oysters in boiling water for a few minutes ; remove and i)lace each oyster in a half- shell, with juice; place on gridiron over brisk fire, and when they begin to boil, season with butter, salt and pepper and some add a dro|i of lemon juice. Serve on half-shell. Or, remove from shell and heat two dozen oysters in their own liquor, drain and add to oysters in pan a lump of butter, little chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt and scald but do not boil; then put back in shells with a few drops lemon juice, cover with bread-crumbs and broil; when they boil in shell take from fire and serve at once. Or, open oysters, leaving them in their deep shell, taking care not to spill the juice, season with sni;ill ])ieee butter, a little cayenne, salt, and lemon juice if liked ; place on gridiron over brisk fire and broil about thre« minutes. Serve with bread and butter. Creamed Of/sters. — Put pint cream in custard kettle with a slice of onion and bit of mace and let boil ; add tablespoon flour mixed smooth with little cold milk or cream, and salt or pepper to taste ; have the oysters scalded in their own liquor, skimmed if necessary, drain and add them to the bailing cream. Skim out mace and onions and serve very hot on slices of hot buttered toast. Some do not scald the oysters before adding to cream and add their liquor also. The onion and mace may be omitted. Curried Ousters. — Put liquor drained from a quart oysters in saucepan, add half cup butter, two tablespoons flour,* and one of curry-powder, well mixed; let boil, add oysters and a little salt; boil up once and serve. Or With Onions, open three dozen oysters, leaving them in their own liquor; cut one medium-sized onion in, small dice, and lightly fry in stewpan with tablespoon butter. When done, mix in one teaspoon curry-powder and little flour, add oysters SHELL-FISH. 803 with their liquor, and keep stirring over fire until the oysters be- come enveloped in a thick sauce, when turn out upon dish and serve with boiled rice. Deviled Oysters. — Wipe oysters dry, lay in a flat dish and cover with a mixture of melted butter, cayeAne pepper (or pepper sauce), and lemon juice. Let them lie in this for ten minutes, turning fre- quently ; take out, roll in cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fry in hot lard and butter, half and half. Fried Oysters. — This, next to soup, is the way in which oysters are most generally served and we give a number of recipes ; for all of them, the oysters must be drained thoroughly in colander and all hits of shell lemoved; to do which it is sometimes necessary to take up each oyster, and some dry on a soft white cloth, although it is best to handle them as little as possible as it tends to toughen them. They can be breaded in any of the ways given on page 299 and bread-crumbs may be used, but it is then very necessary that they be wiped dry before dipping, but with cracker-dust draining is all that is needed. Where one is near a large bakery, it is nicer to buy the latter rather than prepare it one's self and is even more economical. For Buckeye Fried Oysters, take medium-sized oys- ters, prepare as above, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set in cool place for ten or fifteen minutes. Then pour them into a pan of finely- rolled crackers, add liquor, mix well, and let stand five minutes, add a little salt and pepper, mold into small cakes with two or three oysters in each, roll in dry cracker-dust until well encrusted, and fry in hot lard and butter, or drippings. Serve hot in covered dish. Or if large oysters dip each in yolk of eggs, well seasoned and beaten, then in corn meal with a little baking powder mixed with it, and fry like fritters ; or put in frying basket and place in the hot lard ; or take two parts rolled crackers and one part corn meal, and treat as above. For Boston Fried Oysters., when oysters are ready, put in hot frying-pan, turn so as to brown on both sides, taking away the liquor as fast as it collects. They cook in this way in a few moments, and the peculiar flavor of the oyster is well preserved. Serve on a hot covered dish, with butter, pepper and salt, or add a little cream just before serving, and serve as above on toast. For Sicperior Fried Oysters, take two dozen large oysters prepared as above, have cracker-dust seasoned with teaspoon salt ; take one oyster at a time, rollin cracker-dust, and lay on a meat board or platter by itself until all are so encased, and laid in rows; let remain fifteen minutes, now take oyster first rolled in cracker-dust and dip in beaten eggs (yolk and white beaten together), then the second oys- ter, and so on until all are dipped, then roll in cracker-dust, follow- ing same order as before. Let them remain from half to three-quar- ters of an hour. It is important to follow the same order in each operation, to give liquor of oyster time to drain out and be ab- 804 S!IELL-FISH. Borbed by the cracker-clust ; now heat iu frying-pan one pound oi clarified fat or lard; when the blue smoke arises (which indicates ft heat of 375 ", the proper cooking point), drop into it a peeled po- tato or piece of hard bread, which has the effect of preventing the fat growing hotter, drop in oysters very lightly, and when a light brown turn to brown the other side ; and then ekim out into colan- der to drain a moment, or lay upon a piece of brown paper, which will absorb superfluous grease ; or have drii>ping-pan lined with brown pai)er, place in that and put in oven. In that way they can drain and be kept hot till ready to serve. The time for cooking is about three minutes. Serve hot on a hot platter. Fried oysters, to be at their be^^t, must be eaten as soon as cooked ; and when it is possible, i f a second supply is to be needed, it should be cooked while the first is being served and eaten. For reason given above use the hands as little as possible ; all the rolling and dipping may be done \vith a fork, without mangling the oyster. Philadelphia Fried Of/sters are prepared by rolling them in flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, droiiping them into an ecjual mixture of lard and salad oil made smoking hot in frying-pan, and ser\'ing them the instant their edges begin to curl. For Gopher Fried Oyster, beat three or more eggs, according to number of oysters to be fried, add equal bulk of rich cream and season with salt and pepper; dip oysters, one by one in this and then roll carefully in either sifted bread or cracker-crumbs. Let stand in a cool place till ready to fry, an hour or so will not hurt them, fry in frying-pan or like fritters. With Oil, beat the yolks of six eggs with three tablespoons salad oil and season wath teaspoon salt and pinch cayenne, dip in this, then roll in cracker-dust and let stand ten minutes, then dip in mix- ture, lastly roll in sifted bread-crumbs and fry as above. For Ital- ian Fried 0>/sie7's, boil three dozen oysters for one minute in their own liquor, and drain them ; fry themintwotal)lespoons butter, one of catsup, a little chopped lemon peel and parsley ; drain, place on dish, and garnish with fried potatoes and parsley. This is a delic- ious delicacy. Or some bread them, seasoning the crumbs with finely-chopped parsley, grated lemon rind and nutmeg and a pinch cayenne, and fry as "Gopher Fried Oysters, seasoning with celery salt just before serving. For Manhatteii Fried Oi/stcrs, afterdrain- ing, season with salt and pepper, roll in cracker-cruml)s or dust and cover the bottom of a frying-pan in which a tablespoon or two of butter has been made very hot; fry brown, turning as needed and serve on dry toast. One of the most ornamental ways of serving fried ovsters is as follows; cut o^ to]) from a briek-sliaped loaf of bread Vcra])ing off the inner crumbs from the top and the remaining part of loaf, leaving crust half an inch thick; place in stove until thoroughly heated, then put in the fried oysters, cover with top, tie around it ribbon, corresponding with tal)le decorations, place on platter and serve, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs of pars- SHELL-FISH. 805 ley. The loaf may be used several times if cared for carefully ; or prepare small rolls in same way, cutting them in two lengthwise, lill, tie, and serve individually. These are also nice filled with any galad or chopped meats. Always serve pickles, slaw, grated horse- radish, etc., with fried oysters. Fricasseed Oysters. — Drain liquor from a quart oysters, strain pint of it into stewpan and when it boils put in oysters ; when they begin to swell add tablespoon flour rubbed smooth with two of but- ter and cook until oysters are white and plump, add a gill cream with white pepper and salt to taste and serve hot ; some add beaten €gg and juice of a lemon, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over the fricassee, after dishing and just before serving; or omit liquor, put drained oysters in a hot frying-pan with tablespoon butter, then finish as above adding an egg or two with the cream. For a richer fricassee, parboil or swell fifty fine oysters in their own juice. Re- move scum, and place juice and oysters in a hot tureen, cover and keep in a warm place. Rub together six tablespoons butter, three of flour and a half gill hot cream till a smooth paste ; add this to a -quart and a half hot cream in stewpan over fire, and stir constantly ; season to taste with salt, white pepper, allspice, mace and a little nutmeg; stir until mixture begins to thicken, then add the well- beaten yolks of six eggs. Strain mixture over oysters, stir well, then cover thickly with bread-crumbs, on top of which lay a few bits of butter. Place in quick oven until top is of a very rich brown. Serve very hot. Some like the addition of a teaspoon chopped parsley, and if served in an open dish garnish with squares or rounds of fried bread and sprigs of parsley, Or take a slice of raw ham (corned and not smoked), soak in boiling water half an hour, cut in very small slices and put in saucepan with two-thirds pint veal or chicken broth, strained, the liquor from one quart oysters, a small onion minced very fine, and a little chopped parsley, sweet marjoram and pepper. Let these simmer twenty minutes, boiling rapidly two or three minutes. Then skim well and add scant tablespoon corn- starch mixed smoothly in one-third cup milk, stir constantly, and when it boils add oysters and tablespoon butter ; just let it come to 41 boil, remove oysters to a deeper dish, then beat one egg and add to it gradually some of the hot broth, and when cooked stir it into the pan ; season with salt and pour all over the oysters. Some squeeze over the juice of a lemon. Hidden Of/siers. — Cut as many thin slices of fat bacon as there are oysters, large New York Counts, dust a little cayenne on each oyster and wrap a slice of bacon around it, keeping in place with wooden toothpicks ; heat a fr^'ing-pan, put in bacon and oysters and keep over quick fire until bacon is browned on all sides, being care- ful not to burn ; take out the toothpicks or not as preferred, and serve singly on small squares of toast. Must all be prepared very «[uickly and served very hot. 806 SHELL-KISH. Panned Oysters. — Cut stale bread in thin slices, then round them, removing all crust, to fit patty-pans; toast them, butter, and place in pans; moisten with three or four teaspoons oyster liquor; then place on toast a layer of 03'sters, sprinkle with pepper, and put on top small piece butter ; place pans in baking pan and ])ut in oven, covering with tin lid, or if latter is not large enough, another pan to keep in the steam and flavor ; have a quick oven, and when cooked seven or eight minutes, until edges curl, remove cover and sprinkle with salt; rephice cover and cook one minute longer. Serve in the patty-pans. Using Paper Cases or Patty Shells look nicer in serv- ing, and the latter can be eaten with the oysters. If wanted panned in their own juice, select two dozen of the freshest oysters, have a small pan about an inch deep with a handle ; open oysters into pan sind add as much more juice. Add tablespoon butter, pinch of salt and black pepper, and sprinkle a little cracker-dust on top. Place on quick tire, and when oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve on toast. Or With Cream^ place in stewpan, add some pepper, a little mace, two cloves, and four or five tablespoons cream. Set over fire until oysters swell. Then pour over toast and add a few bits of butter. Put tablespoon flour with liquor from oysters, mix smoothly together and bring to a l)oil. Pour this over the oysters and toast, put in very hot oven and brown top a little. A few bread- crumbs may be sprinkled on top dish with bits of parsley before baking. To pan oysters In the Shell select the largest ones, wash both shells perfectly clean, put in baking pan with round side down, and place in oven. In a few minutes the shell will slightly open ; then take from fire, remove top shell carefully and retain all juice possible. Place on each oyster a piece of butter, sprinkle of salt and pepper, and a few bits of toast cut in half-inch squares. Serve in shells j>laccd on a folded napkin. , Pickled Ousters. — Place oysters in saucepan and simmer gently in their own liquor about ten minutes. Take them out one by one, j)lace in jar, cover, and when cold add a pickle made as follows; Measure tlie oyster liquor, add to it same quantity of vinegar, one })lade pounded mace, strip of lemon peel and whole cloves and boil five minutes. When cold ]iour over oysters and cover and tie very closely. Or to the liquor from a hundred oysters add a teaspoon black pepper, a pod of red pepper broken in bits, two blades of mace, teaspoon salt, two dozen cloves, and half pint best vinegar, when hot remove scum, add oysters and siinmer gently until the edges curl, take out and [uit in small jars with the spice ; then boil the pickle, skim, and ])our over them. Thin lemon slices may lie scattered through the jars with oysters. This pickle will be ready for use after standing overnight, but may be kept four or five weeks. Keep pickled oysters in cool, dark place and Avhen ajar is opened use all at once, or as quickly as possible lest they spoil. Some plump the oysters in clear boiling water, tb^n put in (M)ld water to 5et color and keep SHELL-FISH. . ' 807 them plump; drain, place in jars and pour above pickle over them. The pickle is nicer if the liquor is boiled, skimmed and strained be- fore adding vinegar, and some boil with it a bit of alum size of fil- bert, putting spices in jars with oysters instead of first adding them to the pickle. For Spiced Oysters, scald one hundred fine large oysters in their own liquor ; take out and lay on clean cloth to cool ; strain liquor from oysters and add to it as much water as their is liquor. Set over fire, and as it boils remove the scum, then add six or eight blades of mace, half ounce allspice, half teaspoon black pep- per, six large cloves, a pint and a half vinegar, and a few small pickles cut up fine. Boil this three minutes. Put the oysters into a stone-ware pot, pour the pickle over them, cover closely, and set in a cool place. Will be ready for use next day. Raw Oysters. — Procure oysters as nearly of a size as possible, and have the shell scrubbed with a brush till free from sand or dirt; open as directed in preface, detaching the flat shell, loosen the oyster from the round or deep shell, but leave in it, and serve half dozen on a plate, with quarter of lemon and a bit of parsley in center. Eat Avith salt, pepper and lemon juice or vinegar. Some season in the shell before serving with adust of cayenne and a little lemon juice, while others serve only in their own liquor with the dust of cayenne and accompanied with quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter. In serving them without the shells the most attractive way is in a dish of ice, made by freezing water in a tin form shaped like a salad bowl, or in a Boat of Ice. Select a large block of ice, of crystal clearness ; with a hot flat iron melt a large enough place in the top to hold oysters, then chip from sides until shaped like a boat. Keep it where it may not melt. The oysters should be well drained, seas- oned with pepper and salt, and placed in the ice-boat. Just before dinner is served, arrange a bed of fresh green geranium leaves or parsley or any green upon a low platter and place the boat upon it, propping it up if necessary with a few small lumps of ice hidden among the leaves. Twine delicate green vines prettily over the boat and arrange a circle of vivid scarlet geraniums upon the platter around the base of the boat and place on upper edge halves or quar- ters of lemon as a garnish. Two folded napkins may be placed on platter to prevent the boat from slipping, then cover as above. This is a very elegant manner of serving, much more pleasing in appear- ance than the shells. It may be served merely on a square block without being chipped. A still more elaborate way is to have in- dividual dishes of ice also ; they can be made in same manner,some using an ordinary window weight, heated, to hollow them out and chipping the outside of the small blocks into eight-sided dishes or any shapes wished. A simpler and equally delicious way is to drain oysters well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a dish and put on ice or in pan of cold water for half an hour before serving, add- ing bits of ice on top. Serve with horseradish, Chilli Sauce, slices SIIELL-FISH. of lemon, or simply vinegar. Raw oysters are served with brown bread and butter as above for luncheon, but more frequently with thin slices of toast before soup at dinner. Frozen Oi/sters are es- teemed a great delicacy by some ; leave them where they will freeze, then open and serve in the half-shell. Scalloped Oysters. — This is another method of cooking oysters by which most of their fine native flavor may be retained, and Is a very satisfactory dish. Butter and bread a baking dish, using only the sweetest of bread-crumbs and butter. On this place a layer of extra fine oysters, season with salt and pepper, and put in another layer of crumbs and another of oysters, and repeat this until the dish is full, having the last layer bread-crumbs, butter and season- ing ; add oyster liquor with a small dash cayenne pepper over the top. Be sure to use ]»lenty of butter, place in a hot oven for thirty minutes, baking a rich brown and serve hot. Or take crushed crackers, not too fine; drain liquor from quart of oysters and carefully re- move all bits of shell ; butter a deep dish or pan, cover bottom with crackers, put in layer of oysters seasoned with salt and pepper and bits of butter, allowing about a tablespoon to each layer, then a layer of crackers, then oysters, and so on until dish is full, finishing with crackers covered with bits of butter ; pour over the oyster- liquor, added to one pint boiling water, boiled and slightly skim- med, place in a hot oven, bake fifteen minutes, add another pint of hotwater ifneeded, or half pintwaterand half pint of milk, in which a small lump of butter has been melted ; bake another half hour, and, to prevent browning too much, cover with a tin or sheet-iron lid. A mixture of crackers and bread-crumbs may be used when more convenient. As amount of liquor in oysters varies, and the proportion of crarkers or bread-crumbs to the oys- ters also varies, the q^uantity of water must be in- creased or diminished according to judgment and taste. Some cook only half an hour in all. The "^in^erDi^ souffle dish is es]iccially nice in which to cook and serve Scalloped Oysters or anything which is best served in dish in Avhich it is cooked. One can have two inner dishes and so keep one hot in oven ready to place in the ornamental receptacle when first one is empty, as Scalloped Oysters to be in their prime must he hot. In- stead of this dish one can use two ordinary quart baking dishes, placing on the Knitted Cover when serving. Cream or milk may be added instead of water, to liquor poured over tiie top, aud some add with each layer a little of the liquid, as in this way it is all thoroughly moistened ; a little powdered 'ornameDtai Rec>i.ucie. macc or gratcd nutmeg may be added if liked. and it is made richer by also pouring over the top a cup milk in which a well-beaten egg has been mixed. Scalloped Clams are pre- pared same way, first chopping them if preferred. For Saratoga SHELL-FISH. Scalloped Oysters^ cover bottom of well-buttered baking dish with laj'er of crumbs, and moisten with half cup cream or milk, put ou spoon by spoon, add salt and pepper, and bits of butter ; put in one quart of pysters and liquor with more pepper and bits of butter, oover thickly with crumbs and on them place more pieces of butter. Place in oven and cover — this is very important, as the flavor is thereby not allowed to escape — and bake till the juice bubbles up, from half to three-quarters of an hour. Remove cover and brown in upper part of oven for a few minutes, not long ; or use the salamander or a hot shovel. Serve in dish in which it was baked. To serve in Scal- lop Shells, drain all the liquor from a quart oysters in stewpan,boil and skim and add half pint cream or milk with which two table- spoons flour should first be mixed ; boil two minutes, ^^ add tablespoon butter, salt, pepper, little nutmeg and i feajf ' the oysters, and take from fire almost immediately; _ taste, and if needed add more seasoning. Have the soauop sneii. shells buttered and sprinkled lightly with crumbs ; nearly fill them with the prepared oysters and cover thickly with crumbs. Put shells in baking pan anci bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot on large platter garnished with parsley. This quantity will fill a dozen shells of ordinary size. Clam,s may be served same, chopping them and stewing a half hour in the cream. Some first fry a chopped onion light brown in butter, then add cream, etc., and afier taking from fire add well-beaten yolks of eggs and put into shells as above. Shells are of tin, granite iron-ware, plated-silver and china. Skewered Oysters. — Take metal skewers and place on each a half dozen oysters alternately, with half dozen thin slices bacon, ^ _,^^^ size of oysters. Put skewers between bars of buttered wire ^^~®^'^^'~ broiler, broil and serve one skewer to each person. Or string on hair-pin shaped wire, first an oyster, then slice of pork, and so ou until wire is filled ; fasten ends of Avire into a long wooden handle, and broil before the fire. Serve with the pork, if liked, seas- oning slightly with pepper. For another, b'lanch oysters in two waters, and drain. Put in stewpan some chopped onions, mush- rooms, and parsley, with butter and little flour ; warm oysters in the mixture, and stir in yolks of eggs to make it firm enough to adhere to oysters. String oysters on silver skewers, about six on each, the sauce adhering to oysters and setting around them. Bread them and broil. Dish up ou napkin. Steamed Oysters. — Lay oysters in the shell in patent steamer or air-tight vessel, placing the upper shell downward so the liquor will not run out when they open. Set over a pot of boiling water and boil hard for twenty minutes ; if the oysters are open tbey are done ; if not, steam till they do open. Serve at once and eat hot, with salt and a bit of butter. Or, wash and drain one quart select oysters^ put in pan and place in steamer over boiling water, cover and steam 810 SHELL-FIPH. till oysters are plump with edges ruflled ; place in heated dish with butter, pepper and salt, aud serve. Stuffed Ousters. — Grate yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, mix with them half as much fat salt pork or bacon, season with pepper and chopped parsley and add a raw egg to make a paste of mixture. Have ready a dozen of the largest oysters on a napkin, insert a penknife at the edge, split each up and down inside with- out making the opening very large, and push in a small teaspoon of the prepared force-meat. Double-bread them, using melted butter instead of egg, and broil over clear fire. For TnMcd Oysters^ pre- pare a force-meat by chopping and then pounding to a paste the breast of a cooked chicken with half as much fat salt pork, raw, add- ing a small can of truffles cut to size of ])ease and quarter pod red pepper, finely minced. Prepare and stuff ovsters as above, roll them in flour, dip in beaten egg, and fry by placing in frying basket immersing in hot fat three or four minutes, or until a golden brown. Drain, dust lightly with fine salt and serve on diamond-shaped pieces of toast, four oysters ou each. Walled Oi/sters. — Make a wall one and one-half inches high and three-quarters wide of one quart nicely mashed and seasoned potatoes, just inside raised edge of platter, glaze it by covering with beaten egg and placing in oven for a few minutes, JMace the liquor from one quart oysters in porcelain kettle, let boil, skim well, then add oysters seasoned with salt, boil up once, skiiy out oysters (milk or water can be added to theli(|Uor, then seasoned with butter and pappcr, and served as soup), andadd them to a cream dressing made by putting a cup rich cream, butter size of half an egg, and a little pepper and teaspoon salt in a pan ])laced within a vessel of boiling water; whenhot'add two ounces of flour mixed smooth in some cream or milk, and let cook till thickened, then place oysters and dressing within the potato and serve immediately. Fried oysters may be served in same way. Or a more elaborate way is as follows : pare and boil five large potatoes and mash through a colander ; add third of a cup milk, salt and pepper to taste, tablespoon butter, and whites of three eggs, l)eaten to stiff froth. Have a two-quart Char- lotte Russe mold well buttered, and sprinkle bottom and sides with bread-crumbs ; there must be butter enough to hold the crumbs in place. Line mold with a thick even coat of the potato, and let stand a few minutes. Put a ])int cream and a slice of onion on to boil ; mix two heai)ing tablespoons corn-starch with a little cold milk or cream and stir into the boiling cream. Season with salt and pepper and cook ten minutes. P)ring a quart oysters to a boil in their own hquor, skim and drain oti' all liquor ; take pieeeof onion from cream, add oysters and pour carefully in the prepared mold. Cover with remainder of potato, being careful not to put i.n too much at once, as in that ease the sauce would be forced to, the fop and take care SHELL-FISH. 811 not to leave any openings, or the sauce will run through and spoil the dish. Bake half an hour in hot oven. When done, remove from oven and let stand a few moments, then place a large platter over the mold, turn dish and mold together, and remove the mold very carefully. Garnish with parsley. Oyster Chowder. — Fry three slices fat pork in pot and add three potatoes and two onions in slices ; boil until nearly done ; soak two or three dozen crackers in cold water a few minutes, and put in the pot with half a can of oysters and quart milk. Boil together a few minutes ; season with salt, pepper and butter. Oyster Croquettes. — Scald and chop fine the hard part of oys- ters (using the other part and liquor for soup), and add an equal weight of mashed potato ; to one pound of this add lump of butter size of egg, teaspoon salt, half teaspoon of })epper, and quarter of cup cream. Make in small rolls or cakes, single-bread and fry as directed in Croquettes. Some add also half teaspoon mace. Oyster Fritters. — Select large plump oysters, drain off liquor, strain, boil, skim, and to each cup add cup milk, two or three eggs, salt and pepper and flour enough to make rather thick batter ; to fry, take an oyster in large spoon, dip into batter and fry in hot fat as directed in Fritters. Some beard and others chop the oysters and stir them into the batter, for which another rule is two eggs and half pint milk for each half pint oysters, with pepper and salt to taste and little nutmeg if liked. Or for a pint oysters, sift pint flour with level teaspoon salt, add yolk of egg, tablespoon salad oil, quar- ter saltspoon pepper; and use enough strained liquor from oysters to make batter thick enough to drop. Beat white of egg to stiff froth and mix this and the oysters lightly with batter and drop at once in large spoonfuls into frying kettle, half full of smoking hot fat. As a rule by the time fritter floats it is done. If there is not enough oyster liquor to make batter, add water, and some use two eggs instead of one yolk and chop oysters. Serve hot on napkin. Oyster Omelet. — Add to a half cup of cream six eggs beaten very light, season with pepper and salt, and pour into a frying-pan with tablespoon butter ; drop in a dozen large oysters cut in halves, or chopped fine and fry until a liglit brown. "Double it over and serve immediately. Chopped parsley may be added to the omelet, if liked, which will be much nicer if whites and yolks of eggs are beaten separately and the whites Stirred in last. Oyster Pancakes. — Strain pint liquor, sift together heaping cup flour, level teaspoon salt, heaping teaspoon baking powder; have pan or griddle hot, and quickly stir into the flour enough oyster liquor to iiiake a thick batter. Fry cakes as fast as possible. 112 SHELL-FISH. Oyster Patties. — Have ready some Patty Shells, see Pastry, and fill with oysters prepared as follows : Heat half pint cream to boiling, stir in tablespoon flour, made smooth with a little cold milk, and season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon rind, pounded mace, or any si»ice liked, with a beaten egg or two if wished. While this is cooking l)ring the oysters to a boil in their own liquor, skim carefully, then dip out 03'sters, put them in the hot cream, boil up once, and serve immediately in the patty shells. The above quant- ity will fiUa dozen and a half shells. Some strain the oyster liquor and add to the cream with a little more thickening, and the oysters may be bearded and cut \\\i if preferred, some even chojiping Ihem. They may aiso be dressed without cream using only their liquor with a iiiae butter and thickening and the grated yolk 0/ a hard- boiled egg. with seasoning to taste. Layer or Pyramid Shells may be used and with the latter, wh(;n adding the tops it is nice to place smafl sprigs of parsley between the shell and the tops. These are known as Oyster Vol an- Vents. Or, line patty pans with pufl' paste, and put foiu'or six oysters in each, according to size, with bits of butter and pepper and salt, sprinkle over a little Hour and chopped hard-boiled eggs, allowing two eggs for six patties, cover with an upper crust and bake. Maybe served \n the pans, or turned out and placed on platter. For Fritter I \itties, cut a loaf of stale biead in slices an inch thick. Willi a cutter t\vo inches and a half in diameter cut out as many pieces as patties wanted, and with an inch and a half cutter, press in center half through each piece. Put pieces in frying basket and plunge into boiling fat for hall a minute. Take out, drain, and with a knife, remove the centers and take out soft bread ; then fill with following mixture; put two tablespoons butter in frying-pan. and when liot, add one of flour. Stir until smooth and brown, add cup oyster liquor, boil one minute, and stir in one pint chopped oysters. Season with salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice. When hot, fill the crusts. Veal or any kind of meat or fish may be used with any kind of stock for the liquid. Oijster Powder. — Beard fresh large oysters and place in vessel over fire a few moments to extract their juice ; cool them and chop very fine with sifted biscuit or bread-crumbs, mace and finely minced lemon peel, then pound in mortar to a paste ; shape into thin cakes, place on buttered paper and bake in slow oven until quite hard. Take out and pound them to a powder, which put in air-tight tin box and keep in dry place. Nice for flavoring fish, •oups, stews and sauces. Oyster Pie. — Line a pudding dish with Puff Paste ; dredge with flour, pour iu pint oysters, season well with bits of butter, salt and pepper, and sprinkle over flour ; pour on some oyster liquor, and cover with a crust having an opening iu center to allow steam t» escape. Or, line dish half way up with good past^, fill dish with SHELL-FISH. 813 pieces of stale bread, place a cover of paste over this, and bake about twenty minutes in brisk oven; take off crust, remove bread, have ready some oysters prepared as for patties, fill the pie with them, replace the crust and serve at once. Some simply make a rich oyster stew, put in dish, cover with Puff Paste and bake. Or, line dish with a paste, place an extra layer around the edge, and bake in a brisk oven ; fill with oysters, season with pepper, salt, and tablespoon butter, sprinkle slightly with flour, and cover with a thin crust of paste ; bake quickl}^ aiid when top crust is done, the pie will be ready to take \ip. Serve promptly, as the crust quickly absorbs the grav}'. Another way is to butter a large dish, and spread a rich paste over the sides and around the edge, but not on the bottom ; drain off part of liquor from oysters, put them in pan, and season with pepper, salt, spice and butter; have ready yolks of tliree hard- boiled eggs chopped fine, and grated bread-crumbs ; pour the oysters with enough of their liquor to moisten well, into the dish with the paste, strew over them tlie chopped eggs and grated bread, cover with the paste and bake in quick oven. Nice also, with gill of cream added, and a little flour. For a Chicken and Oj/ster Fie, parboil a chicken, cut up and place in baking dish, season and cover with a layer of oysters, season them with butter, pepper and salt, put two hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, with piece of butter size of egg in center, sift flour over the whole, add a half pint milk, cover with the paste and bake three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven. Oyster I?oU. — Cut a round piece, say six inches across, from top of well-baked round loaf of bread, remove inside from loaf, leav- ing crust half an inch thick ; make a rich oyster stew, and put in the loaf first a layer of it, then of the bread-crumbs, then oysters, and so on ; place cover over the top, glaze loaf with beaten yolk of M\ egg, and place in oven a few monlents. Serve very hot. Or put in all of the oysters with layer of crumbs over the top, then finish as above. Or after preparing the loaf as above, break up crumbs very fine, and dry them slowly in an oven ; then quickly fry three cups of them in two tablespoons butter, stirring all the time. As soon as they begin to look golden and are crisp they are done. Put quart eream on to heat, and when it boils stir in three tablespoons of flour, mixed with cup cold milk. Cook ten minutes, season well with salt and pepper; put a layer of this in the loaf, then a layer of oysters, which dredge well with salt and pepi)er ; then another layer of sauce and one of fried crumbs. Continue this until the loaf is nearly full, having the last layer a thick one of crumbs. Three pints of oysters are required for this dish, and about three teaspoons of salt and half teaspoon pepper. Bake slowly half an hour. Serve on a fringed napkin with a garnish of parsley around the dish. Or to serve individually remove a slice from top of small rolls, scoop ♦ut the crumb and fill them with oysters slightly stewed with butter 814 SHELL-FISH. or cream, and some bread-crumbs ; replace tops of loaves and bake till crisp. Glaze with beaten egg. Oyster Soup — Pour a quart oysters in colander, rinse by pour- ing over tbem pint cold water, put this in porcelain kettle, add a pint boiling water, let boil, skim, season with pepper and piece of butter size of large egg ; then add oysters, having removed all shells let boil up once, season with salt and serve. Or With, Milk, pour quart cold water over quart oysters if solid; if not solid, use pint water, drain through a colander into kettle, and when it boils skim ; add pepper, then the oysters ; season with butter and salt, then add one quart cream or rich new milk brought to boiling point in a tin pail set in a pot of boiling water, let boil up and serve at once. Or, instead of adding the milk, place it, boiling hot, in tureen, pour the soup over it and then serve. A small piece of lemon peel boiled with the oyster liquor and taken out before cream is added is con- sidered an improvement by some. Or for an individual stew, put one dozen fine oysters and their liquor in saucepan with a little water ; let boil, season with salt and pppper and pour into a dish in which there is a tablespoon butter; add three-quarters pint boiling cream and serve at once ; or the cream may be omitted using more water. Some do not let it quite boil, thinking it impairs the delicate flavor. Oyster Stev). — Put liquor from oysters on stove, let boil, skim, and season with butter and pepper, add oysters, let only come to a boiL season with salt and serve. This is pronounced a "royal stew." If to be served individually line each bowl with toast, pour in oys- ters, add teaspoon lemon juice, sprinkle a few bits of parsley over and serve. Or put oysters in stewpan with equal quantities water and juice, place over brisk fire, season with white pepper, bring to a boil, remove scum, add salt to taste, and pour into bowls with teaspoon butter in each. Cover bowls with plates and serve. A Cream Stew is made sam.e way, adding cream instead of water. A Steio With Celery is made same as third recipe, adding a few stocks of celery cut up fine and a little mace. While cooking add teas- poon or two powdered cracker-dust and cup beef broth. Bring to a boil and pour in bowl lined with toast, well buttered and cut in half- diamond shape. Or put in stewpan a ))int each best beef broth and rich sweet cream ; add four tablespoons choice butter, three teaspoons salt, two of white pepper, two of ground mace and the cut celery, or, if this is not to l)e had, teaspoon celery extract ; stir in sifted cracker- dust to thicken slightly and when cooked, pour the sauce over fifty fine oysters, previously parboiled in their own juice and placed in tureen. Serve very hot. Oyster Toast. — Chop a dozen and a half good-sized oysters, season with white pepper and little nutmeg ; boil a half pint cream, put in oysters, let b-'il up once, take from fire, add salt to taste, stir SHELL-FISH. 815 in Avell-beaten yolks of four eggs and pour over slices of buttered toast. Or beard and pound oysters in mortjir to a paste, add a lit- tle cream, and season with pepper. Spread this on small slices of toast, and place for a few minutes in oven to heat. A little finely chopped lemon peel may be sprinkled upon the tops. Oyster Cream Toast is a nice way of using the liquor when oysters are fried ; heat it and make a sauce by mixing over fire tablespoon each butter and Hour until the}'^ bubble, then gradually stirring in the hot oyster liquor, adding if necessary a little boiling water to make a sauce of consistency of cream. Boil a minute or two, season with salt and white pepper and pour on slices of toast. For Oyster Sandwiches^ cook oysters in a very little water with butter and salt to taste, and put a lixyex of them between two thin slices of dry toast, buttered slightly if wished. Oysters prepared in this way make a delicious entree to be sent to to the table with game of any kind. Oyster Vol-au- Ve7it. — Prepare the large vol-au-vent case as di- rected in Pastry. Scald a quart oysters in their own liquor, skim well, drain the oysters and return half pint of strained liquor to saucepan. Rub tablespoon flour smooth with two of butter and pour the hot oyster liquor over it ; season well with pepper and salt and a very little nutmeg or mace, if liked ; boil up once, add three tablespoons cream and the oysters, stir over the fire a minute, fill the vol-au-vent case, put on the cover and serve immediately. Beaten eggs may be added if wished richer. Oysters and Macaroni. — Lay some stewed macaroni in a deep dish and put over it a thick layer of oysters, bearded, and seasoned with cayenne pepper and grated lemon rind. Add a small cup cream. Strew bread-crumbs over the top, and brown it in a pretty quick oven. Serve hot, with Piquant Sauce. Or have ready a third of a package macaroni, two dozen oysters, cup milk, an egg, table- spoon flour, pepper and salt; put the macaroni in boiling salted water, boil twenty minutes and drain dry ; butter the bottom of three-pint baking dish, put in half the macaroni, strew oysters over it, and dot with butter, in small pieces, dredge with salt and pepper and cover with rest of macaroni ; moisten the flour with a little milk, beat in the egg, then the rest of milk and oyster liquor, and pour in the dish an(l bake about twenty minutes or until set. Grated cheese, sprinkled between the layers of oysters and macaroni is a nice addition. If a larger dish is wanted, put in three layers each of oysters and 'macaroni, and some alternate also with layers of bread-crumbs, finishing with these on top. Scald the oyster liquor, strain, add suflScient milk to moisten the whole well and pour over the top, dot with bits of butter and bake about twenty minutes. Prepare Chicken and Macaroni Bwaie, first steaming chicken tender. Oysters in the Shell. — Select large shell oysters. Wash shells until clean as polished marble. Place in dripping pan with round 816 SHELL-FISn. ehell down and sot in hot oven twenty minutes. Do not remove top shell, but co(dc in both shells, and when done serve on upi>er part of shell instc.'id of lower. Season highly with a bit of butter, cayenne pepper and teaspoon lemon juiee. Or open shells with knife as directed, keeping deepest ones for use and loosen oysters entirely from shell, or they will draw to one side. Dredge fine bread- erumhs in shells, replace oysters, cover with bread-crumbs, and bake. When lightly browned, pour teaspoon melted butter over each, moistening crumbs well and dust with salt and pinch cayenne. It hastens the brown- ing to have the bread dry. Serve four or five on a plate, with a quarter of lemon in center! Or melt some butter, season with minced parsley and pepper, and when slightly cooled, roll each oyster in it, taking care that it drips Ifut little, and lay in the shells. Add to each shell a little hmion juice, cover with grated bread-crumbs, place in baking pan and bake in quick oven; just before done, add a little salt. Serve in shells. Or, having washed empty shells, place them in pan in very hot oven and when hot put in each a bit of but- ter and dust of pepper v»'ith a large oyster or several small ones ; put pan in oven till edges curl, then take shells up on hot dish and serve at once. Rome turn oysters over just before serving. For Boiled Oysters^ wash shell oysters perfectly clean, place in small wire basket, drop in kettle of boiling water, and when shells open, lift basket, and serve. Scallops. — As sold in market scallops are generally ready for cooking; if-boughtin shell, boil and take out the muscular part or heart, as that is the only part used in cooking. For Baked Scal- lopSy boil tender, drain, add some White Sauce and place in buttered baking dish, covering the top with a layer of bread-crumbs and brown in oven. For Chinese Scallops, boil till tender, drain and tear apart in little shreds. Beat three eggs a few minutes; have frying-pan liot, with one tablespoon either butter or lard, add eggs, then s(:allops and stir like scrambled eggs. For Fried, Scallops, wash in cold salted water, drain and dry as oysters; roll in corn- meal seasoned with salt and pepper, fry pieces of pork, skim out, and fry scallops in the drippings or bread them and fry in smoking hot fat like doughnuts. Southerji Fried Scallops, roll in flour seas- oned with. salt and pepper and fry in hjlf lard and half butter, one- half inch of depth of smoking hot f:it in skillet. A nice dish ii Steiced Scallops, wash and cook in boiling water to cover, till ten- der, almost live minutes, drain, and dress with a White Sauce mado by stirring one tablespoon each butter and flour over the fire till well mixed and then slowly add one cup boiling water at a time till a pint has been used ; sea^- )n with salt and pepper and let boil once ; SHELL-FISH. 817 then add the Scallops, take from the fire and stir in an egg yolk. If a Drawn Butter Sauce iswished, add two heaping tablespoons of but- ter to the White Sauce. Viewed Shrimps. — Put a pint shelled shrimps in stewpan with three-fourths pint stock, add thickening of butter and flour, season with salt, cayenne and nutmeg to tastfe and simmer gently three minutes. Serve garnished with croutons of fried bread. Or stew the shrimps in Cream Sauce. For Curried Shrimps, \)Vii half pound butter in stewpan, add three or four sliced onions and fry golden brown, then stir in two tablespoons more butter. Have tablespoon curry-poAvder warmed in oven and mix well with onions; add quart shelled shrimps and cook gently five or ten minutes, stirring often, taking care not to let it get dry, adding more b^utter if needed. Salt to taste and add a little lemon juice and sugar just before serving. Serve boiled rice with it in separate dish. Nice for luncheon. For Shrimp Pie, to one quart shelled shrimps, add cup each vinegar and catsup and two tablespoons butter, season withsaltand pepper, scald and pour in earthen dish, strew top with bread-crumbs and bake twenty minutes. Potted Shell-Fish. — Boil fish in salt and water, take all meat from claws and tails, put in stewpan with chopped mushrooms or truffles, and a little butter, and simmer gently over fire ten minutes, or till they appear to be done. When almost done, add well beaten yolks of three eggs, with teacup cream, and a little well-chopped parsley. Stew all together a little while, until consistency of moder- ately stiff paste. Press into pots, and cover w'ith clarified butter. Shrimps may be potted as above or put pint shelled shrimps in stew- pan with quarter pound clarified or fresh butter, blade pounded mace, cayenne to taste, and if liked a little nutmeg ; heat gradually but do not boil, and when heated through pour into small pots or jars ; when cold cover with melted butter and put away as directed in Potted Meats. Fricasseed Terrapin. — Cut up the prepared meat from a good- sized terrapin and place in saucepan, always adding the juice that escapes ; let stew a few moments and add a dressing of a gill cream, two tablespoons butter, teaspoon flour, powdered yolk of a hard- boiled egsr with seasoning of salt, pepper and pinch of cayenne, let boil and just before serving add a gill of Tarragon Vinegar. For Terrapins in the Shell, to the prepared meat add a tablespoon or two of above vinegar, place in the shell, cover with bits of butter and a layer of bread-crumbs or cracker-dust, and bake ten or fifteen minntes in oven. For Stewed Terrapin, let the cut up meat lay in a marinade of spices, a chopped onion, tablespoon catsup, seasoned with salt and pepper, for half an hour or so, then add as much milk as wished, and when it boils add four tablespoons butter and two of flour rubbed smoothly together ; simmer gently fifteen or twenty minutes, then add the Tarragon Vinegar and serve on slices of toast. 818 SOUPS. SOUPS. "Once upon a time" soups ^vere only made now and then among American housewives, but now most every dinner table has ite soup two or three times a week, and many every day, which is as it should be, as soup is so nutritious, wholesome, palatable and economical that as an article of diet it should rank only second to bread, and to make it with flavors properly commingled, is an art which all should master; it requires study and practice, but it is surprising from what a scant allotment of material a delicate and appetizing dish may be produced, and there are enough scraps of bones, cooked and uncooked meats, trimmings of meats and vege- tables in every household that would otherwise go to waste, to sup- ply a nutritious soup for every day in the year, with only a sligM expense for additional material. The best basis for soup is lean un- cooked meat, a pound of meat (with the bone) to a quart of watery being a generally accepted rule to which may also be added chicken, turlvcy, or mutton bones well broken up ; a mixture of beef, muttor. and veal, with a bit of ham bone with meat all cut fine, makes a a higher flavored soup than any single meat ; the legs of all meats are rich in gelatine, an important constituent of soup, although nol adding any special nutriment to it. It is very esstnitial that the meat \>q perfecthj fresh as the least taint, or even if a little old, im- pairs the flavor of the soup, and the meat does not want to "hang," for the fresher it is the hetter the soup ; it may be coarse and tough and refuse bits and scraps may be -used if fresh, all comprising to make a dish of soup which will meet with favor from every one. There are two classes of soup, a thin or clear one and a thick or rich ; the former precedes a heavier course of meats, etc., at dinner and refreshes one, acting as an appetizer for the rest of the meal SOUPS. 819 while the latter with only a few a;dditional dishes makes a very sat- isfactory and easily prepared dinner. Thick soups require more seasoning than thin ones and if wanted very delicate may be strained, and should be about the consistency of cream while clear soups should be perfectly transparent, For all soups a jilnch of sugar should always be added. The variety of soups is without limit, and by adding 'here a little and there a little" one can produce a new and distinctive variety whenever wished ; but the usual distinction given them is seven divisions; Clear, Fruit, Mixed, Plain, Thick, Vegetable and White Soups, and we give a large variety of the dif- ferent kinds in the recipes that follow. The Fruit Soups, which are largely used abroad, are made of any of the berries or larger fruits and are very delicious, served hot in winter or cold (iced) in sum- mer ; they are very easily prepared, and when made of the highly colored raspberry or strawberry and served, with a spoonful of whip- ped cream in each dish, make an appetizing and elegant first course. Makinq Soup. — Always use cold water in making all soups that the juice ma}'' be more readily extracted from the meat; skim well, especially during the first hour, and cook slowly. There is great necessity for thorough skimming, and to help the scum rise, pour in a little cold water now and then, and as the soup reaches the boiling point, skim it off. Use salt at first sparingly, seasoning with salt and pepper when done ; allow one quart soup to three or four persons. When remnants of cooked meat are used, chop fine, crush the bones, add a ham bone or bit of ham or salt pork and all ends of roasts and fatty parts, and the brown fat of the roast; make the day previous to use, strain, set away overnight without covering, skim off fat (which clarify and save for drippings), and it is ready to heat and serve. If soup is wished same day it is made and it is too greasy add a little cold water when done and the grease'can be easily removed ; or place on the top pieces of brown paper and they will absorb the fat. In using fresh meat throw pieces as cut into required quantity of(?(9^(i water and let stand until juices of meat begin to color it, then put on to boil ; in this way juices are more readily drawn out.The soup is done when meat is juiceless.When soup is desired for a daily first course, a stock-pot should be especially provided, with a faucet to draw off the clear soup to be seasoned and flavored for each day ; and all bones and bits of meat left after din- ner can be thrown into kettle, also bits of vegetables and bread, and gravies that are left from roast meats and cutlets. In this way there will be nothing lost, and the soups can be varied by seasonings and thickenings of different kinds. Every two or three days, however, the contents of the kettle should be turned out, after all liquid has 820 SOUPS. been drawn off, and kettle washed clean and scalded, for if this is not attended to, the soups will soon lose their piquant llavor and be- come stale ; there is also formakingsoups,a soup-kettle (which has a double bottom), or a large iron pot with a tight-fitting tin cover with a hole size of a large darning-needle in it at one side of handle. Keep kettle covered closely, that the flavor may not be lost, and sim- mer slowly, so that the quantity may not be much reduced by evai)ora- tion, but if it has boiled away (which maybe the case when the meat is to be used for the table), pour in as much hot water as ia needed, and add vegetables, noodles, or any thickening desired. Vegetables should be added just long enough before soup is done to allow them to be thoroughly cooked, adding them in the order of length of cooking, as after they are done they absorb a portion of the soup. An excellent soup for a small family may be made from the bones and trimmings cut from a steak before broiling. The bones from a rib roast, which are generally cut out and thrown away by the butcher, after weighing, should always be ordered sent with roast and used in soup. When the standard soup bone is used always recook the second day as a less strong but very nice^soup is thus made. Rice, sago, pearled barley, vermicelli, macaroni, oatmeal, bread-crumbs, pease, beans, parsnips, carrots, b'cets, turnips, garlic, shallots, and onions are desirable additions to meat soups. The first three are used in the proportion of half teacup to three quarts soup, wash and soak. Rice requires half to three-quarters of an hour, boiling it in soup; sago cocks in fifteen minutes; barley should be soaked overnight, or for several hours ; boil by itself in a little water till tender ; add to soup just before serving. Vermicelli and macaroni should be broken up small, and washed thoroughly and boiled in soup half an hour ; or some prefer to cook till tender in slightly salted water. If a soup is wanted without any addition of vegetables, but thickened, arrowroot or corn-starch is used in the propo'rtion of two rounded teaspoons of latter and two scantteaspoons of former to a quart soup ; mix with a little water initil smooth, and add^when soup is nearly done. Wheat flour is also used for thick- ening, but it requires three rounded tablespoons to quart. If not thick enough to suit the taste more may be added. Browned Flour does not thicken, the starchy property having been removed in the browning process. A piece of boiling beef pounded to a pulp, with a bit of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually incorpotated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When the soup appears to be too thin or too icrak, it will be neces- sary to remove the cover of the boiler and allow contents to boil till some of the watery parts have evaporated ; or some of the thick- ening materials above mentioned should be added. Seascning Soup. — Seasonings for soups may be varied to suit tastes. The simplest may have only pepper and salt, while the richest may have a little of every savor, so delicately blended that SOUPS. 821 no one i8 conspicuous. The best seasoning is that which is made up of the smallest quantity from each of many spices. No measure can be given, because the good soup maker must be a skillful taster. There must be a flavor of salt, that is, the Avater must not be insipid (less is needed if bits of salt meat are used), there must be a warm tone from the pepper, but not the taste of pepper ; in short the spicing should be delicate rather than profuse . For Brown Soups use the dark spices and all kinds of vegetables including car- rots, tomatoes, etc. ; a richer flavor is given the soup to brown the vegetables and where bacon and ham, which give a flavor liked by many are used, the former can be fried in the fat after the meat is browned or if latter is not used, simply brown in butter, or use the fat from off soup stock. For White Soups, mace, aromatic seeds, white pepper, cream, curry-powder, onion, potato, white turnip, celery, parsnip, salsify, rice, macaroni, etc., give the best desired re- sults. In general soup many herbs, either fresh or dried are used as seasoning, also different spices such as bay leaves, tarragon, cher- vil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon peel and juice, and orange juice, are all used. The latter imparts a finer flavor than the lemon, and the acid is much milder. Mushroom Catsup, Harvey's Sauce, Chilli Sauce, and seasoning of difl*erent catsuits and sauces may be combined in various proportions in an almost endless variety of excellent soups. Then there is cress-seed, parsley, common, lemon and orange thyme, knotted majoram, sage, mint, winter savory and celery, or celery- seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable, and when used as a substitute, its flavor should be corrected by the, addition of a pinch of sugar. Delicate flavors such as aromatic spices, any fruit ex- tracts, orange and lemon juice, etc,, should be added just before serving, as their flavors are evaporated by the heat, and some only put them in the tureen or individual dishes and pour the soup over them. Bay leaf is among soups and meats what vanilla is among sweets. Skillfully used it gives that flavor of French cookery that is recognized as something different from the ordinary home-made article, even by those who cannot tell wherein the difference consists. Of course there are many others, just as there are other flavors for ice-cream besides vanilla ; we speak of its relative importance to ad- vise a particular discretion in its use. One large bay leaf will flavor two gallons of soup, and only a small piece is wanted in a soup for a family dinner. For both coloring and flavoring soups, use Cara- mel, Browned Flour, meat with cloves in it, or browned with butter and sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till they are browned, and then rubbed through a sieve. Poached eggs are an excellent addition to some soups. They should be added just before serving, •ne for each person, and they may be poached in water or dropped into the boiling soup, or to shape them nicely ; break one in a but- 822 SOUPS. tered cup and place cups in frying-pan, pouring water around and in the cups ; when done take out carefully and add to soup. This is a nice -svay to cook them to be served alone, only bake them in ovtii and onlit the water from the cup, putting a httle salt and pep- per on top of egg ; bake three minutes and serve at once in the cups ; or two or three eggs, well-beaten and added just before pour- ing in tureen, make a nice thickening. Cayenne pepper or a bit of red pepper pod, is considered an improvement in soup, but must be cautiously used. Forcemeat Balls, and Croutons, dice of fried or toasted bread, are also used. If soup is salted too highly, add a teaspoon sugar and a tablespoon vinegar, and it will help modify it. Soup Stock. — This is to soup what yeast is to bread and althougli many soups are made as above, without any stock, yet when one has learned the art of making the latter she" will always find herself ready to prepare a dish of delicious soup at almost a minutes' warn- ing, aud the mystery which seems to surround the simple word of ''stock-' will be unravelled with her lirst attempt. To make a J'lain Stocky take in proportion of one pound meat and bones to one quart cold water, unless it is to be boiling seven or nine hours making a Jell2/ Stock, when add a little more water. ^ It is better to cut the meat from the bones, cutting it in small pieces and breaking the bones fine, some indeed believe in crushing them almost to a pow- der and when so treated a little water must be added as they are be- ing crushed, and they must then be placed in a sack. But simply breaking them, or rather having the butcher do it, is all that_ is necessary, as that allows the quicker freeing of the gelatine of which the bones are cliiefly composed, two ounces of them containing as much gelatine as a *pound of meat; so that when equal portions bones and meat are taken, the stock when cold will be a jelly, but if only meat is used and but little bone the stock will be liquid. Stock made only of bones lacks in flavor as they do not contain a particle oi osmazome which is that part of the meat which gives flavor to tho stock. The flesh of old animals contains mure osmazome than that of young ones, and dark meats more than white, and make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat the osmazome appears to acquire higher properties; so by putting the remains of roast meats into stock a better flavor is obtained. There is also contained in the meat, fibres, fat, and albumen ; the fibres are inseparable and con- stitute almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone along boiling; most of the fat dissolves by cooking and the albu- men is of the nature of the white of eggs ; it can be dissolved only in cold or tepid water, and coagulates when it is put in water not quite at the boiling ])oint. From this property in albumen, it is evident that if the meat is put into hot or boiling water or the water is made to boil up quickly afterward, the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from SOUPS. 823 dissolving ; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that de- gree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it, for this reason the meat is better cut in small pieces. The meat must be fresh as possible (the same as for soup) to obtain finest flavored stock, and should be cooked from three to eight hours ; the shorter time making a Liquid Stock the latter a Jelly Stock. Cook very slowly, letting it heat gradually as the soaking of the meat in the cold water while it is being heated ex- tracts the juice better and the latter mingles more perfectly and so gives a finer flavor, and for that reason, letting the meat stand an hour or so in the kettle of water before placing it on stove is recom- mended by some. The proportion of salt used in making stock is about one tablespoon, not more, to a gallon of water, being used for the purpose of separating the blood and slime from the meat; the latter will rise just as boiling commences, in the form of scum and should be removed immediately as the agitation of the water breaks it, and it will mingle speedily with the stock and make the latter cloudy ; a dash of cold water added to kettle just as stock boils will assist the scum to rise, skim often, set back and let stock boil gently on one side or in one place, and not all over; "the pot should smile, not laugh," is a trite but true saying as rapid boiling hardens the fibre of the meat and the savory flavor escapes with the steam; the simmering also assists in clarifying and if gently cooked, stock will often be quite clear after straining. As regards time of cooking, if prepared and made as above the juices, etc., will be well extracted in two or three hours and the flavor is injured by too much cooking. If a Jelly Stock is wished cook the seven or nine hours. When any stock is done, strain carefully through a clean towel folded several times, and laid in a colander set over a stone crock or jar; never allow it to stand and cool in pot in Mdiich it was cooked, but always strain in the crock as directed. Do not squeeze towel through which it is strained — simply let the stock run through it, and let cool wdthout covering, except with a sieve or cheese cloth cover — if it were covered with a plate, or any other covering which would confine the steam, it Avould be injured, be- cause the steam condensing upon inside of cover would fall back into it, and, in warm weather, this might cause it to sour. Let it cool quickly as the sooner it is cold the finer the flavor and the longer it will keep. In cold weather it may be kept a week but in summer it will need thorough scalding every other day probably ; letting it boil a few moments, not simply warming it, as that only causes it to sour more quickly. Before stock is first cooled some add salt till nicely seasoned, thinking it aids in the preserva- tion of the stock. After it has cooled, letting it stand overnight is 824 SOUPS. best, remove the cake of grease tliat forms on top and then clarify, if necessary, as described hereafter ; although as the cake assists in excluding the air it is well to let it remain on the stock till some of the latter is needed. If stock is wanted shortly after straining, add a little cold Avater and the grease will rise and can be readily skim- med off and then reheated. From this can be made all the various kinds of soups adding vegetables and flavoring as given in Making and Seasoning Soups. Where a Jelly Stock is made it is nice to put some in pint self-sealing glass cans, as it can be readily melted by placing can in hot water, and then poured in kettle and water, etc., added as needed. When the jell3'^is sliced off for u-^e, after being kept in a crock, scrape off any sediment that may be at bottom. In using any stock, whatever is added in making the soup, as rice, tapioca, vegetables, etc., should first be cooked tender as much boiling injures the flavor of the stock and for that reason, the better way in making any Vegetable Soup, is to cook the vegetables tender in water,then add stock till as rich as wished and flavor and season as preferred. A Complex Stock is made of two or more kinds of meat, or fowl cooked together, and the flavor may be varied by using in it a little ham, anchovj', sausage, or a calf's foot. Sprigs of herbs, and whole spices may be used in seasoning, and afterwards strained out, and w^hole vegetables such as onions, turnips, carrots, tomatoes, etc., may be added when making stock after it has been skimmed, and cooked with it, skimming out before straining; but they cause it to sour much more quickly and unless to be used soon are not advisable Turnips should certainly be omitted in summer as thgy will cause sourness quicker than any other vegetable. W/iite Stock is made as Plain Stock using veal, poultry or any light meats. As some make with vegetables we give a recipe or two. I^^is/i Stock for soup is made in the same manner as that of meat; a good rule be- ing two pounds of beef or veal, or if plenty of fish omit the meat, any kinds of trimrrtings of White fish, cut up, when preparing them for table; put in two quarts cold water, skim and add two onions, bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, and rind of half a lemon ; simmer two hours, strain and finish as any stock. When a richer stock is wanted fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water. Fish Stock sours much more quickly than any other stock, so do not make long before Avanted. Ironing and baking day is the best time for making all stock and in making a Complex Stock the Kitchen Queen may use any combination of meats, bones, etc., at command and with care, will have the foundation of a savory dish with which to tempt the appetites of her subjects, furnishing them with somctliing in which every i)artlcle of nourishment in the in- gredients used has been extracted ; and they are at once refreshed almost as soon as one who depends upon his glass of wine as a stimulus. For Ecotnonical Stock, make of steak or roast beef bones SOUPS. 825 with the meat on them, after cooking, adding a little piece of fresh meat, or none at all, and allowing it to simmer at least five hours ; strain, remove all fat the next day, and it will be ready for use. Or to a soup bone add any trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, roast beef bones, an onion stuck with eight or ten cloves, a turnip, two carrots, tablespoon salt, bunch of herbs as given in Meats, teaspoon sugar and cold water in jn-oportion given. Let simmer gently and strain and finish as directed. For a Medium StockiixkQ four pounds shin of beef or four of knuckle of veal or two pounds each with trimmings of poultry, etc., and quarter pound lean bacon or ham, with vegetables as above, adding half dozen stalks of celery, and a tomato or two gives a delicious flavor. Make as above or cut up meat and bacon or ham into two-inch squares ; rub two tablespoons butter on bottom of kettle, add meat and other ingredients with half pint cold water ; cover and cook till the bottom has become lined with a pale jelly-like substance ; then add four quarts cold water, skim as needed and simmer gently four or five hours and fin- ish as above. For a Rich Stock take four pounds each shin of beef and knuckle of veal, half pound lean ham or a ham bone and a calf's foot, with the vegetables given above, or not, as wished. For a White Stock, cut up five pounds shin of veal and one chicken, put in pot with the bone and a gallon and a half Avater. Some fry the meat in the pot with a little butter fifteen or twenty minutes before adding water. Skim as directed, then simmer two or three hours, add three stalks celery, one onion, white turnip, blade mace and any other vegetables wished that are given in the list used in White Stock or Soup. The chicken can be omitted, but veal, chicken, fish, oysters, etc., either singly or two or more combined always form the basis of above. Clarifying Stock. — To clarify a gallon of stock, take whites and shells of two or three eggs with tablespoon cold water to each egg ; break up shells and beat with the whites and cold water, place in saucepan, pour the cold stock upon them, set over fire, and let slowly reach boiling point, stirring it four or five times to loosen the egg from the bottom ; as it boils the egg will harden and rise to surface in a thick scum. When stock appears quite clear under the scum pour it very gently into a folded towel laid in a colander, which must be set over a large bowl, and allow it to run through the towel without squeezing it. This clarified stock is also called Clear Soi'j) or Consoiniiie. Almond Soup. — Boil four pounds beef, or veal, and half a neck of mutton, gently in water to cover till stock is strong and meat very tender; strain, and set it on fire, adding ingredients in proportion of half pound vermicelli, four blades mace, and six cloves, to two quarts stock. Let it boil till it has the flavor of the spices. Have ready half pound almonds, blanched and pounded very fine, yolks 826 SOUPS. of six eggs boiled hard ; mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the former should grow oily; pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together. Let soup be cool while adding above and stir till perfectly smooth. Just before serving add gill thick cream. Or take a quart of jellied White Stock ; let heat and add to it water if needed, and a pint of cream made hot in custard kettle flavored with rind of a lemon. Addthealmonda and a thickening of two tablespoons butter and three of flour, with a seasoning of salt and j)epper and a little mace. Let cook twenty minutes, and serve. Apple Soup. — Peel, quarter and core about two pounds good cooking apples and stew gently in three quarts stock till tender ; rub all through a puree sieve, add six cloves, white pepper, cayenne and ginger to taste, boil up once and serve. Or slice half "dozen pared apples and cook till tender in a very little water adding tea- cup sugar and juice of one lemon; take off" and let cool. Slice twelve apples and i)ut into two quarts water with third of a pound each currants and seeded raisins and cook till soft, add cuj) sugar and strain tiirough a cloth or puree sieve ; pour this over the cooked sliced apples, adding juice of another lemoii, if wished, and serve when cold, with a })iece of ice in each dish. Or With Dried Apples^ to three quarts water add cup prunes or part raisins ; cook an hour, add cup dried apples, soaked if nece6sar3',two tablespoons sago and a small stick cinnamon ; when apples are tender, in about an hour, add juice of one lemon, or slices of a pared lemon , sweeten to taste and serve hot in winter or iced in summer. Corn-starch may be used instead of the sago, adding it just before serving; if too thick add water till consistency of good cream. Can be made same with fresh apples, and is a delicious soup with either. Amber Soup. — Slice a medium-sized onion, carrot and half a white turnip and fry with some ham or salt pork, cut in dice, fif- teen minutes ; put in soup kettle, add a bunch of sweet herbs and a gallon of any stock made without vegetables. Cook three-quarters of an hour, strain, clarify, reheat, add teaspoon Caramel, season to taste and serve. Artichoke Sor/p. — Put a turnip and onion cut in thin slices, into saucepan with half head cut celery, three slices lean bacon or ham and three tablespoons butter, and place over fire fifteen min- utes, stirring to prevent scorching. Wash and pare four pounds Jerusalem artichokes, cut into thin slices and add the other ingred- ients with pint of White Stock. Stew all to smooth pulp, add an- other pint and a half stock, stirring in well, with seasoning of salt, cayenne and sugar to taste. Put through puree sieve, return to saucepan and simmer five minutes, skimming well, add half i)int boiling cream, or pint hot milk, and serve with Croutons. SOUPS. 827 Asparagus Soup. — Cut tops from thirty heads asparagus in about half inch pieces and simmer them gently in slightly salted water to cover ; boil the stalks left and strain through a sieve, rub- bing through any tender parts of stalks, adding a little salt and some like a very little sugar ; warm three pints White Stock, add a small lump butter and teaspoon flour pre\nously cooked by heating butter and slowly stirring in flour ; then add asparagus pulp. Boil slowly quarter of an hour, stirring in two or three tablespoons cream ; color soup with teaspoon Spinach Coloring and just before serving, add asparagus tops with the water in which they were cooked. Some use only a quart stock, and add a pint more cream or milk, making Cream of Asparagus Soup. When so much cream is added water may be used instead o*f stock. The Spinach Coloring is used to heighten the color, but is not a necessity. Or omit all cream and add a few leaves of white beet and lettuce, a little mint, sor- rel and marjoram, arud serve poured over the crust of a French roll. To make With Pease, boil a pint and a half split pease till tender, rub through sieve and add cup stock, stew half pint asparagus, cut small, in three quarts water with four young onions, a head of let- tuce, shredded, and half head cut celery till tender, then put all together, stew a few minutes, add half pint cream and little Spinach Coloring and serve. The pease will require cooking about two and one-half hours and other vegetables an hour. Fresh Pease may be used same way cooking till tendei". Barley Soup.— Vvii into a pot two pounds shin of beef, quarter pound pearled barley, large bunch parsley, four onions, six pota- toes, salt and pepper to taste and four quarts water. Simmer gently four hours, rub through sieve, boil up once and serve. For Cream of Barley Soup., put a cup pearled barley with an onion and small piece each mace and cinnamon in three pints chicken stock and cook slowly five hours; rub through sieve and add one and a half pints boiling cream or milk ; if milk, add also two tablespoons but- ter ; season to taste. If liked richer beat yolks of four eggs with lit- tle milk and stir into the hot milk or cream a minute or two before adding it to soup. Bean Soup. — Boil a small soup bone in about two quarts water until meat can be separated from bone, remove latter, add a large cup white beans soaked for two hours, boil for an hour and a half, add three potatoes, half a turnip and a parsnip, all sliced fine, boil half an hour longer, and just before serving sprinkle in a few dry bread- crumbs ; season with salt and pepper. and serve with raw onions,sliced very firife, for those who like them. For Turtle Bean Soi/p, soak one pint black beans overnight, then put them in three quarts water with beef bones or a small piece of lean salt pork and some add carrot and an onion, boil three or four hours, strain, season with salt, pep- per, cloves and lemon juice. Put in a few slices of lemon, and if 828 SOUPS. wished add slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve with Croutons placed in the tureen. Or make a Saturday Soup; for as baked beans and brown bread form a Sunday breakfast for so many it will be a use- ful and economical so\ip for Saturday dinner. Put on the pot with more beans, soaked overnight if wished than enough for Sunday's breakfast, with water, and slice of salt pork ; parboil till beans are ready to be put in oven. Take out porlc and part of beans, leaving enough for the soup ; place pot on back of stove and keep hot. Three-quarters of an hour before dinner heat soup,and add more water and vegetables as in "Bean Soup ;" a carrot may also be added. For White Bean Soup, boil till tender a quart of white beans in water. Divide in halves, mashing one Jialf, thin with a little stock and rub through a sieve. Boil again wntha head of celery cut fine and a lit- tle more stock till a smooth soup is obtained. Now add the half of beans that has been reserved, together with a mild seasoning of sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Boil fifteen min- utes and serve. A Meatless Bean Soup is made by parboiling one pint beans, drain off water, add fresh, let boil until perfectly tender, season with pepper and salt, add a ])iece of butter size of a walnut, or more if preferred ; when done skim out half-tlie beans, leavingthe broth with the remaining half in the kettle ; now add a teacup sweet cream or good milk, and dozen or more crackers broken up ; let it boil up, and serve. For any bean soup an onion may first be fried brown in kettle with some ham or bacon fat, then the beans, water, etc., added ; and when tender all maybe rubbed through puree sieve, reheated and a little thickening added if needed. Beef Soup. — Take cracked joints of beef, and after putting meat in kettle and covering it well with water, let it conw* to a boil, when it shouM be well skimmed. Set kettle Avhere meat will sim- mer slowly until it is thoroughly done, keeping it closely covered all the time. The next day remove fat which hardens on top of soup. This gives a plain stock. Peel, wash, and slice rim-e good- sized potatoes and put them into soup or stock ; cut up half a head of white cabbage in shreds, and add to this a pint of dried corn that has been soaked overnight, two onions, one head of celery, and to- matoes if desired. When these are done, and they should simmer slowly, care being taken that they do not burn, season with salt and pepper, strain (or not as ])rcferred) and serve. The different varie- ties of beef soup are formed by this method of seasoning and using different vegetables. Besides onions, celery, cabbage, tomatoes and potatoes, many use a few carrots, turnips and beets ; sago, rice or barley will give the soup consistency, and are to "be prefafred to flour" for the jmrpose. Parsley, thyme and sage are the lavorite herbs for seasoning, but should be used sparingly and Force-meat Balls are always an improvement. A Steak Soup is made by put- ting fresh bones and trimmings from a sirloin steak over fire after breakfast in three quarts water, and cooking steadily until about an SOUPS. 829 hour before dinner, when add two onions, one carrot, three com- mon-sized potatoes, all sliced, some parsley cut fine, a red pepper and salt to taste. This makes a delicious soup, sufficient for three persons. All soups are more palatable seasoned with onions and red pepper, using the seeds of latter with care, as they are very strong. For Economical Soup, take a soup bone (any piece of beef not to fat will do), wash well, place in kettle with sufficient cold water for soup ; let it boil, skim thoroughly and continue to boil slowly from three to six hours, according to size and quality of meat; one hour before dinner, put in cabbage cut in quarters, sprinkling it with salt ; quarter of an hour after add turnips halved or quartered according to size ; quarter hour after adding turnips, add potatoes whole, or cut in two if large (turnips and potatoes should be pared and laid in cold water half an hour before using) . When done take out vegetables and meat, small pieces of former will remain to be served in soup, place in heater, or if you have no heater, place plates over a pot or skillet of boiling water. If there is not enough soup, add boiling water, stir in a little thicken- ing of flour and water if needed, let it boil thoroughly; season to taste with salt and pepper and serve at once. The soup will be ex- cellent, and vegetables and meat will make a nice Boiled Dinner. A much prized southern dish is Okra Beef Soup, fry one pound round steak cut in biis, two tablespoons butter, and one sliced onion, till very brown ; add to three or four quarts Avater in soup kettle, and boil slowly one hour ; then add pint sliced okra, and smimer three hours or more ; season with salt and pepper, strain and serve. Some add with the okra five tomatoes and a finely- chopped pepper. If wished richer use Plain Stock instead of water. Black Soup. — Take the neck and any trimmings or pieces of tame goose, when cutting it up for frying ; put it in two quarts cold water with a very little salt, let cook slowly, skim, and add a carrot, parsnip, onion with half dozen cloves stuck in it, half a turnip and cook till all are tender; strain, return to kettle, and place on back of stove, To kill the goose pick off a few feathers at neck, then in- sert a sharp knife, and let the blood drip in a cup, strain and stir two tablespoons flour in smoothly. Add this to kettle of broth, stirring loell all the time till served; let just boil, add a little nice syrup and powdered cloves to taste, then two or three tablespoons vinegar, the chopped meat from the goose and serve at once. Made from pork in same way, being careful to stir the blood all the time when running. A dish which is often served as a dessert with this soup is a Siuedish Pudding, for a quart of blood from beef or pork add two gills cider, salt and pepper and a finely chopped onion, fried in a little butter or lard five or ten minutes,'half teaspoon pow- dered ginger and sugar to taste, with best Graham or Rye fiouV till a thick batter ; pour in a well-buttered mold and steam two hours. 830 SOUPS. Serve with a dressing of melted butter accompanied with a dish of Cranberry Sauce. This pudding is nice sliced cold and fried. Bouillon. — Put a three or four pound soup bone, selecting one with plenty of meat, in four quarts of cold water with level table- spoon salt ; let come to a boil, skim thoroughly ; then add one whole medium-sized turnip and onion pared, with latter stuck with half dozen cloves ; a scraped carrot and a Bunch of Herbs as given in meats ; or it may be composed of parsley, small stalk of celery, half a bay leaf, blade mace and five pepper-corns (if pepper is used) ; or the bunch may be omitted eutireh', or use only parsley. But all these little seasonings add greatly to the flavor and when one becomes ac- customed to keep them on hand, the expense and extra trouble are comparatively nothing. Let cook three hours, if cooked too long it will not be so clear; and the bone can be recooked, so it is fully as economical, and secures better results. Strain and set away, without covering, excepting with a thin cloth. When wanted for use remove fat, heat and strain ; then reheat. This second strain ing generally prevents necessity of clarif3-ing, but if cloudy, clarif}' as directed. This gives Plain Bouillon to which add Caramel till of color desired, as the more added the deeper the shade, but too high a flavor does not want to be given. When making it just for the Bouillon, for three pints of latter put tablespoon sugar in frying pan and let brown, stirring all the time. Then add gradually cup of the bouillon or water, as if added all at once it would boil over ; cook a few moments, and add to kettle ; if auy sugar is left in pan add a little more bouillon, cook a moment or two and add. Serve very hot in bouillon cups. For Philadelphia Bouillon add to the soup bone a chicken, a pound of shin of veal and a small slice ham ; if the meat is cut from bone, in order to break the latter up, place bones in kettle first then put the meat on them, fry the whole onion in little ham fat add with other ingredients and cook four hours. True Bouillon is served as above for company dinners, receptions, and evening parties, and should be used at many a home dinner ; but additions may be made to it and one of the nicest is the Sweecl- ish Dumplings, rub tablespoon butter with two (heaping) of flour, smoothly in saucepan over the fire, add pinch salt, ])int cream, or jjint cream and milk, and stir till thick as mush, add two teaspoons sugar, and tablespoon grated almonds or cocoa-nut ; remove from stove and add beaten yolks of two eggs. After dishing bouillon place a spoonful or two in each cup ; or a slice of lemon or volk of a hard-boiled egg an«i serve. Or sago, tapioca, macaroni, or vermi- celli may be added, cooking them first, or a poached egg to each cup. Some like the addition of a few cooked tomatoes, which give a delicious flavor. Bouillon will keep for several days in cool weather, so onr can vary the soup each day. SOUPS. 831 Bread Soup. — Boil pound bread-crusts in quart stock, adding tablespoon butter; when it softens beat all together with a spoon till well mixed, season to taste Avith pepper, salt and a very little of any spice preferred, and serve. Cabbage Soup. — Shave a head cabbage fine, boil till tender in water needed for soup, add tablespoon sugar, salt and pepper to taste ; drop in dumplings, made as for pot pie, and when ready to serve, add butter and sweet cream to taste. Serve hot. Carrot Soup. — Put in soup kettle a knuckle of veal, three or four quarts cold water, quart finely-sliced carrots, one head celery, or teaspoon celery seed ; boil two and a half hours, add handful rice, and boil an hour longer; season with pepper (or a bit of red pepper pod) and salt, and serve. If veal is not at hand boil a beef bone, or any good stock may be used ; some omit rice and celery and add two onions and a turnip sliced, and when tender pulp through a sieve. May be made day before wanted, and is said to be all the better. To make of carrots alone, put in about two pounds sliced carrots in stewpan with three tablespoons butter and place where they will stew gently an hour without browning. Then pour over them two quarts stock and simmer another hour, or till tender ; rub through sieve, add salt and caj'^enne to taste, return to fire and boil five minutes, skim wtII and serve. Cauliflower Soup. — Boil the cauliflower, picked in small pieces, in salted water about half an hour ; wash half of it, and put that in three pints White Stock or the clear broth from cooking an old chicken, in either of which a tablespoon of minced onion has been cooked fifteen minutes; add pint of boiled rich milk, season with white pepper, and a blade of mace, add a little thickening if neces- sary ; then add tablespoon butter and the whole pieces of cauli- flower with a tablespoon minced parsley. Boil up once and serve. About a cup of cauliflower is needed and that left from a meal may be used. Some add a speck of cayenne. Celery Soup. — Wash and scrape a head of celery well, cut into small pieces, put in pint boiling salted water and cook till very soft ; chop an onion, boil in quart milk ten minutes and add all to celery ; rub through sieve, boil again, add tablespoon each butter and flour that have been stirred together over fire, and stir until smooth and well cooked ; add pepper and salt to taste and serve, straining again if not perfectly smooth. Or cut nice stalks celery fine and boil in water seasoned with salt, nutmeg and sugar to taste till tender, rub through sieve, put pulp in half pint strong stock, simmer half an hour, add pint cream, bring to boiling point and serve. If a brown soup is wanted omit cream and use all stock, adding a little Caramel Coloring. Or put half pint cold cooked rice into two quarts boiling milk in custard kettle with head of celery 832 SOUPS. cut very fine, and stew till celery is tender. Season to taste with butter, salt, white pepper and a little mace if liked. Pour over two well-beaten eggs in tureen and scatter crisp bread dice over top. For Celerjf Cream. Soup^ boil small cup rice in tlnee pints milk, until it will pass through sieve. Grate white part of two heads celery (three if small) on bread-grater; add this to the rice milk rt/Ve?* it has been strained, also quart strong white stock ; boil until celery is perfectly tender, season with salt, white pepper and a very little grated nutmeg, and serve. If cream is obtainable, substitute one pint for same quantity of milk. The soup should be of a nice creamy consistency, neither too thick nor too thin. When fresh celery cannot be had, a little of the seed, finely pounded, or the essence will flavox soup nicely. Chestmit Soup. — Blanch a quart shelled chestnuts, boil in plenty of water till tender and rub through fine sieve with ]>otato masher. Mix smooth a tablespoon each flour and butter in sauce- pan over fire and add gradually a quart milk ; when scalding hot, season with saltspoon salt, pinch pepper and nutmeg, add chestnut pulp, boil up once and serve. For a richer soup boil chestnuts m stock, and use the whole or a part of stock for the soup, adding gill cream to each quart. CJucJten Soup. — In boiling chickens for salads, etc., the broth (water in which they are boiled) may be used for soup. When the chickens are to be served whole, stuff and tie in a cloth. To the broth add a dozen tomatoes (or a quart can), and one thinly-sliced onion; boil twenty minutes, season with salt and pepper, add two well-beaten eggs, and serve. Or, for Southern Chicken Soup, cut meat of one chicken into small jjieces, except the breast, and break the bones. Place bones and meat in kettle with breast on top and cover with cold water, cook three or four hours, skimming well, and remove the breast as soon as tender ; strain and to three pints stock add three tablespoons cooked rice, the breast cut in dice,' tablespoon minced parsley, and salt and white pepper to taste. Cook fifteen minutes and serve. Some cook a half pound or so of round steak, cut in dice, with chicken and bones; or add three carrots cut up, pint of tomatoes, teacup of lima beans, and salt to taste and pinch cayenne pepper, and simmer four hours. An hour before serving add pint rich milk ; add thickening if needed and serve. An old chicken is best as it gives a richer, finer flavor. CLAM SOUP. First catch your clams— nlong the cbbiug edges Of saline coves you'll fiud the precious wedges, Witu backs up, lurking in the sandy bottom; Full in your iron rake, and lo! you've got "em! Take thirty large on3s, put a basin under, And cleave, with knife, their stony ;a\V6 asunder: SOUPS. 833 Add water (three quarts) to the native liquor, Bring to a boil, (and, by the way, the quicker It boils the better, if you'd do it cutely.) Now add the clams, chopped up and minced minutely. Allow a longer boil of just three minutes, And while it bubbles, quiclcly stir within its Tumultuous depths where still the mollusks mutter. Four table-spoons of flour and four of butter, A pint of milk, some pepper to your notion, And clams need salting, although born of ocean, Remove from fire; (if much boiled they will suffer- Yon 11 find that ludia-rubber is u t tougher.) After 'tis ofiF. add three fresh eggs, well beaten. Stir once more, and it's ready to be eaten. Fruit of the wave! O dainty and delicious! Food for the gods ! Ambroteia for Apicius ! Worthy to thrill the soul of sea-born Venus, Or titillate the palate of Silenus. — W. A. Croffut. Clam Soup. — Wash clams, and place in just sufficient water fo» soup, let boil, and as soon as they clear from shells, take out and place clams in a jar for pickling ; throw into the broth a pint each of sweet milk and rolled crackers, add a little salt, boil five minutes and just before taking from fire, add tablespoon butter beaten with two eggs and serve, letting each person season to taste. Cocoa-nut Soup. — Simmer six ounces grated cocoa-nut one hour in two quarts veal stock keeping closely covered ; strain care- fully, add gill hot cream, seasoning of salt, Avhite pepper, and a little mace if liked, and thicken with three scant tablespoons rice flour, stirred smooth in little cold milk ; boil one minute and serve. Wheat flour may be used if ric6 flour is not at hand. Corn Soup. — One large fowl, or four pounds veal (knuckle or neck will do), put over fire in gallon cold water with a little salt, skim well, cover tightly and simmer slowly till meat slips from bones, not allowing it to boil to rags, as it will make a nice dish for breakfast or lunch, or even for dinner. Set aside with meat a cup of the liquor; strain soup to remove all bones and rags of meat; grate dozen ears green corn, scraping cobs to remove the heart ol the kernel, add corn to soup, with salt, pepper, and a little parsley, and simmer slowly half an hour. Just before serving add a table- spoon flour beaten very thoroughly with a tablespoon butter. Serve hot. To serve chicken or veal, put broth (which was reserved) in a clean saucepan, beat one egg, tablespoon butter and teaspoon flour together very thoroughly, and add to it with salt, pepper, and a lit- tle chopped parsley. Arrange meat on dish, pour over the gravy boiling hot, and serve at once. Or for Hasty Corn Soup^ cook to- gether three pints White Stock and pint grated sweet corn twent}^ minutes, then add pint each cream and milk with tablespoon butter, little minced parsley, and a smooth thickening of flour and Avaterif 834 SOUPS. needed. Season to taste and serve. Or for Meatless Corn Soup, grate twelve ears sweet corn, and put cobs into kettle with cold water enough to cover, and bull one hour; then skim out cobs and add grated corn, with teacup boiling water, and boil half an hour. Add quart of milk, or part cream and milk, salt and pepper, and boil for ten minutes. Put in piece of butter size of an egg, set ket- tle on back of stove and add three well-beaten eggs, stir rapidly for five minutes, and serve immediately with croutons, or Avith crackers. Some add Buckeye Dumplings, boil fifteen minutes and serve. For Corn Chowder, cut half a pound of pork in slices, and fry brown, then take up, and fry two medium-sized onions in the fat. Put quart sliced jiotatoes and three pints grated or cut corn into kettle in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, pepper and flour, using salts poon pepj>er, two tablespoons salt and five of flour. Strain onions and fat over vegetables, and with a spoon press the juice through strainer ; then slowly pour three pints boiling water through Strainer, rubbing as much onion through as possible. Cover kettle, and boil gently half an hour. Mix two tablespoons of corn-starch with a little milk, and when perfectly smooth, add quart rich milk. Stir this into the boiling chowder. Taste to see if seasoned enough, and if not, add more pepper and salt. Then add half dozen crack- ers, split, buttered and dipped for a minute in cold water. Put on cover, boil up once, and serve. Cream Soup. — Stir over the fire two tablespoons butter and three of flour in saucepan till smooth, add boiled milk, a half cup at a time, till three pints have been used, half milk and water may be used, or for a richer soup, use half cream -and milk ; season with white pepper, salt, and pinch nutmeg. Serve with croutons added a moment before dishing. For Cream of Beets add a puree of beets made by rubbing well-cooked beets through a fine sieve with a po- tato masher. Cream of Spinach, Asparagus, Celery, Pease, etc., are made in same way. The quantity of pulp can be varied to suit the taste. For Cream of Salmon, rub through puree sieve three- quarters of a pint boiled Salmon, canned maybe used without cook- ing, and add as above. Cucumber Soup. — Pare one large cucumber, quarter and take out seeds ; cut it in thin slices, put them on plate with little salt, to draw water from them ; drain, and put in saucepan, with butter. Wlien warmed through, without being browned, pour quart stock on them. Add a little sorrel, cliervil, and seasoning, and boil forty minutes. Mix well-beaten yolks of two eggs with gill cream, which add just before serving. Flemish Soup. — Slice five onions, ten stalks celery, and ten medium-sized potatoes, and put them with three tablespoons butter and half pint water in stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then add SOUPS. 835 two quarts Plain Stock and cook gently, till potatoes are done. Rub all through a sieve, add half pint boiled cream and serve at once. Fruit Soup. — This soup is a general favorite and as it is so very easily made one with little experience can attempt it. There are two divisions the clear and the thick, the latter being made by using the pulp of the fruit. Take any fresh fruit, pie-plant, strawberries, gooseberries, currants, cherries, wild plums, raspberries, etc., and add water and cook till all juice is extracted ; for a clear soup, strain and take amount of juice wished, adding more water, if necessary, till a pleasant flavor, boil, skim, and to three pints liquid add tabro- spoon corn-starch mixed smooth with a little water, sweeten to taste, boil a moment and serve cold in summer, Avith a lump of ice and tablespoon sweetened whipped cream in each dish, or bouillon cup, and hot in winter, omitting cream. Part currants and raspberries may be used together, or any harmonious combination of fruit or the juices; as canned juice can be used and any of the Shrubs are especially delicious. For Raspberry Soup, add water to Raspberry Shrub till of a pleasant flavor, then finish as above Avithout 'sweet- ening. The vinegar already used in the shrub imparts just enough of the acid flavor wished. When using any fresh fruit or canned juice, a little lemon or currant juice may be added to the sweeter fruits, adding the lemon just before removing soup from fire, and a little orange juice to Strawberry Soup made as above gives a richer flavor. A very elaborate recipe is to pick and Avash two quarts strawberries and rub, without cooking, through a puree sieve add- ing water to the pulp till consistency of cream, sweeten to taste and add gill orange, and third of a gill lemon juice. When cold, ice and serve with a few whole berries, which have been standing in sugar an hour or two, and a spoonful of whipped cream in each dish. For Cheney Soup, cook cherries in water, sweeten to taste, flavor with teaspoon vanilla and serve hot, without straining if wished. A richer soup is made by stoning half peck cherries, boil till soft in water Avith a stick cinnamon and sugar ; add Avater till of a pleasant flavor, rub through a puree sieve, reserving a few of them whole ; crack half the stones, take out kernels, boil them, adding litle sugar, rub through sie\^e or pound to a paste and add to soup and flavor as in second recipe of StraAvberry Soup. Let cool and serA-e iced with some of the reserved whole cherries in each dish. Make Apricot Soup in same AA^ay cutting half of apricots in slices, sprink- ling with sugar and letting stand Avhile the other half is cooking. Add apricot kernel paste as above, flavoring AAdth pineapple juice, add reserved slices and serve iced. Blackberry Soup is made as Raspberry, and one can always make a delicious soup from a7iy fruit, juice or shrub at command and should not fail to try it, as it makes such a refreshing first course at dinner in summer; oris delicious serA^ed a la bouillon for luncheon or an eveniug company. Croutons are nice added to fruit soups just before serving if to be 836 SOUPS. eaten hot ; or when iced accompany with a dish of Dry Toast made as on page 59, or slices of bread, sprinkled with sugar and glazed in oven or fried in butter. Julienne Soup. — Cut carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, string beans, etc., into strips as illustrated, about one and a quarter inches long having them all of same size ; take a gill or so of each, fry the carrot pieces in but- ter and pour three quarts boiling stock over them, add the rest of vegetables with some lettuce and sorrel cut in larger pieces, a bay leaf and a small onion, and simmer gentl}'- an hour or until vegetables are tender. Pour the soup over some Croutons i)]aced in tu- strips of vegetables. reen and serve hot. Some do not fry the carrots but add all to the stock, or water may be used instead of stock. If all vegetables are not obtainable any three of them may be used, but the sorrel is con- sidered indispensable by epicures. Lemon Soup. — Heat three jnnts Bouillon or any clear stock And pour it upon a well-beaten egg placed in tureen; add juice of large lemon, half pint Croutons and serve at once. Lohster Soup. — Pick meat from one lobster or two small ones, and beat fins, chine, and small claws in a mortar, previously taking away brown fin and bag in head. Put in a stewpan, with bread- crumbs, anchovy, half an onion, small bunch herbs, strip lemon peel, and two quarts water ; simmer gently till all goodness is ex- tracted, and strain. Pound the spawn in a mortar, with tablespoon butter, little nutmeg, and half teaspoon flour, adding third of a pint each cream and milk and ]>utin stew})an with the tails cut in pieces, ^lake Forcemeat Balls with the remainder of the lo])ster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few bread- crumbs ; moisten them with egg, heat them in soup and serve. For a FlUin Lobster Soup omit onions, anchovy and lemon peel. Milk Soup. — Brown lightly a thinly-sliced onion in butter in a very hot frying-pan, add tablespoon flour and when brown add slowly pint boiling water. Cook briskly a few moments, place on back of stove and simmer two hours, add gill boiling water, a little salt and sugar and a pint of boiled new milk, boil up once and serve. Or With Eggs., boil two quarts milk with saltspoon salt, teaspoon powdered cinnamon, and three of sugar ; place four thin slices of bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, add them to milk, and stir it over fire till it thickens ; do not let it curdle ; pour upon the bread, and serve. Nice for cliildren. Bread may be toasted, if wished. soUFs. 837 Mock Turtle or Calfs-head Soup. — Lay one large calf's head well cleaned and washed, and four pig's feet, in bottom of a large kettle, and cover with a gallon water ; boil three hours, or until flesh will slip from bones ; take out head, leaving feet to be boiled steadily while meat is cut from head ; select with care enough of the fatty portions in top of head and cheeks to fill a teacup, and set aside to cool ; remove Drains to saucer, and also set aside ; chop rest of meat with tongue very fine, season with salt, pepper, pow- dered majoram and thyme, a teaspoon of cloves, one of mace, half as much allspice and grated nutmeg. When flesh falls from bones of feet, take out bones, leaving the gelatinous meat; boil all together slowly, without removing cover, for two hours more; take soup from fire and set away until next day. Skim off" fat an hour before dinner and set stock over fire, and when it boils strain carefully and drop in reserved meat, which should have been cut when cold, into small squares. Have these all ready as well as Force-meat Balls., to prepare which rub the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs to a paste in a mortar, or in a bowl with back of silver spoon, adding gradually the brains to moisten them, also a little butter and salt. Mix with these, two eggs beaten very light, flour hands and make this paste into balls about size of a pigeon's egg; throw them into soup five minutes before taking from fire ; stir in large tablespoon browned flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water, and finish the seasoning by addition of four tablespoons sherry or Maderia wine, and juice of a lemon. It should not boil more than half an hour on second day. Serve with sliced lemons. Some use only the head with seven quarts water and serve brain, tongue, etc., for separate dishes, al- though the tongue can be first cooked with it. A finer flavor is given when cooking head first time to add piece fried ham and a carrot, turnip and onion stuck with eight cloves, and a bunch sweet herbs as given in Bouillon with strips of rind of half a lemon. When to be reheated put tablespoon butter and two of flour in saucepan, when a light brown add pint and a half of the stock with half a bay leaf, a tuft of celery leavv3S, three or four sprigs parsley, a blade of mace, and some add a few chives. Cook forty minutes, strain and add to rest of stock, with some of meat from head cut in dice ; let boil up once and pour in tureen, in which is the juice of half a lemon, with slices of the other half and chopped yolks of three hard- boiled eggs. We do not think the wine as in first recipe is essential. Some add a knuckle of veal and for a plain soup to be served at once, simply boil with an onion and any sweet herbs at hand about four hours ; then strain and chop meat from head in dice and re- turn to soup, season with a little celery seed and either pour it over the chopped yolks of eggs and lemon slices ; or fifteen minutes be- fore serving, add, pouring it through the holes of a colander a thin batter of an egg, cup of milk and flour as needed, and then pour soup over the slices of a lemon. 838 SOUPS. Mutton Soup. — Boil a four or five 'pound leg of mutton two hours ; take out and place in oven to brown an hour, basting it often. To the broth add onion and potato chopped fine, half a cup of barley, soaked overnight in two cups water, and two large toma- toes ; season with pepper and salt, boil one hour, stir often (as bar- ley is apt to burn), and, before taking from the fire, add tablespoon flour wet with cold water if needed. Or take three or four pounds neck of mutton, cut up the meat, break the bones and put all in kettle with three quarts water. Let boil, skim, then simmer till a clear well-flavored broth ; add barley and vegetables as above, or barley, carrots, turnips, etc., may be used with bunch of herbs. Noodle Soup. — Add noodles to beef or any other soup after strain- ing ; they will cook in fifteen or twenty minutes, and are prepared in the following manner : To one egg add as much sifted flour as it will absorb with a little salt : work it in wuth the fingers ten or fif- teen minutes, mixing it as stiff"as possible ; roll to a very thin sheet, fold and roll as thin as a wafer, dust lightly with flour and roll up tightly as a Jelly Roll ; slice from the ends with a thin sharp knife, shake out the strips loosely, let dry an hour or two and drop into soup and cook ten minutes. Some add two teaspoons water. Okra Soup. — Take a nice joint of beef filled with marrow, gal- lon water, onion cut fine, two sprigs parsley, two quarts okra, one quart tomatoes ; boil meat six hours, add vegetables and boil two hours more. Or brown an onion with a slice of bacon or ham, then add vegetables as above, or two quarts tomato and one of okra, three quarts water and cook slowly two or three hours, seasoning to taste. Or for SoiU/ieni Gumho, prepare vegetables as in second recipe, adding a bay leaf and blade of mace, then cut up and fry brown a squirrel, chicken or piece of veal, add and cook till tender, seasoning wath pe])per, salt and a pinch cayenne. Take out meat and serve separately. Some always add a ham bone and a little grated or cut corn, and Lima beans are considered an improvement, and just before serving add four or five tablespoons boiled rice and histead of cayenne, tablespoon or two of green pepper chopped fine. Boil up once and serve. Onion Soup. — Slice thin five or six medium-sized onions and fry brown in tablespoon butter, add two or three tablespoons flour, or rice flour makes it more delicate, and when latter is browned add slowly pint and a half boiling water, and a launch of sweet herbs as given in Bouillon; let boil up and then place on back of stove and simmer slowly an hour and a half. Then add three pints boiling milk or part cream, and four tablespoons mashed potato, mixed with a little milk or cream till smooth and rather thin. Lot boil few minutes. Season to taste, adding teaspoon sugar and half pint of Croutons and serve hot. If wished richer use stock instead of SOUPS. 839 water and a little chopped celery added gives a delicious flavor. Boiled rice may be added instead of potato, and it may be served Avithout either, adding half cup soaked barley Avith stock or water. Ox Tail Soup. — Saw the tail in thin round slices, cook slowly two hours in hot water, skim out slices and add to three quarts Plain Bouillon. In the meantime have carrots, turnips, onion etc., cut with a round cutter, as an apple corer, into lozenge shape pieces, about a pint in all, and cook them half an hour in a little water, add to soup. Add brown butter and flour thickening in small quantity, let soup simmer slowly until it becomes smooth and clear again, and skim until all fat is removed. (Season with salt and cayenne. Serve a slice or two of ox tail and some of the vegetables in each plate. When a soup like the foregoing has not a clear S3'rup-like sort of thickness or body, but is dull, like flour gravy it may be cleared by longer simmering and adding more stock with some cold tomato juice, or lemon juice, or even cold water, and skimming from the side. If not already light brown add a spoonful of Cara- mel. Some do not use the extra stock but separate ox tail at the joints, or cut in thin slices, and place in a gallon cold water Avith two slices ham and any vegetables wished, cut in thin slices. Sim- mer three or four hours till meat is tender, strain and serve with pieces of the ox tail in each dish. Oyster Soup. — Put one quart stock, White Stock is nicest, in kettie, or Avater may be used ; add oyster liquor from quart of oys- ters, having drained latter in colander, pouring over them a half pint of the hot stock ; skim if necessary, put in oysters, let just come to a boil, set on back of range, stir in half cup crushed oyster crack- ers, three tablespoons butter, salt and Avhite pepper to taste, and then quart milk, Avhich has been boiled in custard kettle; or the milk may be placed in tureen and the soup poured over. Some sprinkle a little minced parsley over just before serving. If Avished A'ery nice, the oysters may be first scalded in their liquor, taken out and bearded and placed in tureen. To a pint of stock, add the beards and strained liquor and simmer half an hour ; strain, add three pints of stock, let come to l)oiling point, season as above, add half pint boiling cream, pour over oysters and serve at once. By cooking the beards a stronger flavor is procured and the oysters are more delicate Avithout them. For Mock Oyster Soup, take one teacup codfish, cut in half-inch squares. Freshen by covering Avith cold water, let it come to a boil, then pour off" and add cup Avater, quart SAveet milk, cup SAveet cream, tablespoon corn-starch, stirred smooth in a little cold milk, lump of butter size of an egg, pepper, and salt to taste. Serve with crackers or toast. Parsnip Soup. — Brown three or four sliced parsnips in sauce- pan with tablespoon or two of butter, cooking them sloAvly, adding 840 SOUPS. a gill stock and when they are tender add three gills more and cook half an hour ; rub through puree sieve and add quart stock, let boil up once and serve. Pea Soup. — Boil three pints shelled green pease in three quarts water ; when quite soft, mash through colander, adding a little water to free the pulp from skins ; return pulp to water in which it was boiled, add head of lettuce chopped, and half a pint young pease; boil half an hour, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with two tablespoons butter rubbed into a little flour. Serve with bits of toasted bread. The soup, when done, should be as thick as cream. Some omit the lettuce. Or cook pint of pease till tender in two quarts boiling water, add two tablespoons butter, salt, white pepper and half pint cream or rich milk, tablespoon minced parsley and teaspoon sugar with a little thickening of corn-starch. Place on back of stove and add beaten yolks of one or two eggs and serve. With Carrots, add with the pease, half pint carrots cut in thin slices, as for Julienne Soup, and a pint more water and finish as above. With Sj)inach, add to pease one pint spinach prepared as for cooking ; or for a Triple Soup, use all three vegetables with three quarts water and finish as above. To make richer use Plain Bouillon instead of the water. With Onions, boil pint shelled pease tender, with a bunch parsley and two young onions in a very little water; rub through sieve and add two quarts any stock ; let it come just to boiling point and serve, as if boiled after the puree is added it is not of as fine color. For a Hasty Soup use cold cooked pease in same way. For Split Pea /Somj9, cut three-quarters pound of any kind of meat, odd pieces will do, in dice, always adding a little ham ; put in a gallon bean-pot with an onion, carrot, table- spoon rice and three gills split pease ; fill with cold water, put on cover and bake in oven three hours and a half. Or soak a cup split pease four or five hours, drain and add them to three quarts stock ; when boiling add somechoppedcarrot, celery and onion, with bunch of herbs if wished, and cook an hour. The pease should partly boil away and thicken soup, while some of them still remain distinct ; when this is not satisfactorily accomplished, add a spoonful of flour thickening. Season with salt and pepper, take out bunch of herbs, add a small lump of butter and serve. Puree of pea soup can be made as directed for puree of beans. It is an English custom to dry mint and crumble it over the top of pea soup. Bean Soup can be made in same way. Pheasant Soup. — Cut up two pheasants and brown them with four tablespoons butter and two slices of ham ; put in soup kettle with two large onions sliced, half head celery and throe quarts of Plain Stock and simmer two hours. Strain, pound the breasts with the crumbs of two rolls, previously soaked, and hard-boiled yolks of two eggs ; add to the soup, let boil up once and serve. This can be sonps. 841 made with the bones, pieces, etc., of the pheasants after being cooked, but of course will not be so rich. Any cold game can be used in this way. Pot Au Feu. — Take a good-sized soup bone with plenty of meat on it, extract marrow and place in a pot on back of range, covering beef with three or more quarts cold water ; cover tightly, and allow to simmer slowly all day long. The next day, before heating, remove cake of grease from top, and add a large onion (previously stuck full of whole cloves, and then roasted in the oven till of a rich brown color), adding tomatoes or any other vegetables which one may fancy. A leek or a section of garlic adds much to the flavor. Rice may be added, or vermicelli for a change. Just before serving, add a teaspoon Caramel, giving a peculiar flavor and richer color to soup. Potato Soup. — To gallon water add six large potatoes chopped fine, one teacup rice, lump of butter size of an egg, one tablespoon flour. Work butter and flour together, and add one teacup sweet cream just before taking from the fire. Boil one hour. Or With Milk, Doil four large potatoes in water till tender, drain, mash and add three pints milk in which have been boiled an onion and two stalks celery ; season with salt, tablespoon but- ter and white pepper, adding cup cream as above, or whipping it and putting in tureen ; rub through puree sieve and serve at once. Some parboil the onions in water tlien add to pota- toes and boil all together; mash and add the boiling milk with a little sago, cook fifteen minutes, stirring all the time, and serve with- out rubbing through sieve. A little butter or cream may be added, but however made,itmustbe served as soon as ready to be at its best. Pumpkin Soup. — Put a scant pint of peeled and sliced pump- kin into a saucepan with six stalks celery chopped fine, tablespoon drippings or butter, teaspoon salt, quarter saltsijoon pepper, and three pints boiling water ; boil until vegetables can be rubbed through sieve ; return to saucepan, set it over fire, add pint boiling cream or milk, boil up once and serve with Croutons and some add a little thickening, and teaspoon sugar is an addition. Winter squash may be used same. Rahbit Soup. — Make soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and keep nice pieces for a delicious entree. Put former into warm water, and draw the blood ; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with bunch of herbs, and a teacup or rather more, of veal stock, or water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add three pints of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbit, pick the 842 SOUPS. meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white ; put bones back in the Hquor, add three stalks celery, one carrot, half an onion, blade mace, salt and white pepper to taste, and simmer for two hours ; skim and strain. Add the meat, reheat and serve. Rice Soup. — Cook half cup rice in water till tender, add two quarts milk, or more if wished thinner, and half cup raisins, tea- spoon or two sugar and salt to taste ; set on back of stove and cook thirty or forty minutes or till raisins are tender and milk and rice well blended. Or put rice in boiling water five minutes, then drain and add it to two quarts boiling stock with half a bay leaf and cook till tender, season and serve. Rice can be used as a thicken- ing to any soup wished. Saf/o Sou2^. — Wash three ounces sago in boiling water, and add it gradually to two quarts nearly boiling stock. Simmer half an hour, when it should be well dissolved. Beat up yolks of three eggs, add to them half pint boiling cream, stir quickly into the soup with teaspoon sugar and serve immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle. This soup is thought to act as tonic to the chest and throat. Sheep's- Head Soup. — Wash and clean a nice head carefully, put it into kettle with Avater hardly sufficient to cover it ; when head is heated through, put in water almost to top of kettle. When very tender, which can be told by probing it with a fork, re- move, strip meat from bones, and put bones back into soup, together with an onion and a bunch of sweet herbs, and simmer till well flavored, then add the meat which has been cut into small portions, and serve. Or for leaked Soup, put head and feet into jar Avith two quarts water, an- onion, some sweet herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Cover closely and bake. It can be served whole, or the meat may be removed from head, cut in pieces, and put with soup. Spinach Soup. — Cook in covered saucepan with a little salt, but no water, till tender; squeeze out moisture and rub through a sieve. Add this pulp to as much stock as will make of consistency wished, let come to a boil, season and pour in tureen in which table- spoon butter has been placed. Making the spinach into balls and placing them in tureen and pouring over any hot stock or bouillon is a more elegant way of serving it. Spring Soup. — To three quarts stock put an equal amount of white and yellow carrots cut in fancy shapes and let it boil slowly for an hour, then add cup string beans, cut in small pieces and as much asparagus, also cut in small })ieces, and a handful of pease. A half an hour latter add some cauliflower l)roken in small pieees, and let it boil until it is soft. Salt and popper to taste. SOUPS. 843 Sorrel Soup. — After thoroughly washing leaves of garden sor- rel, put in kettle or stewpan, with no more water than adheres to them ; cover closely, and stew until tender, stirring occasionally, but covering each time. Have ready soaked some dried white beans, enough to make soup as thick as gruel ; put them on fire in cold water, and boil until beans are very tender. Put in bones from roasts, steaks, or fowls, and any pieces of cooked or uncooked meat and a small piece of lean salt pork, if liked. Any roast meat gravy or stock can be used instead of meat ; add an onion, a sprig of thyme, salt, pepper and a bay leaf. Skim out bones, etc., rub beans through sieve and add to soup with enough of the cooked sor- rel to make it taste pleasantly sour, let boil few moments and serve. Tomato Soup. — Clear tomato soup should be as bright as wine, not highly colored or highly flavored, but thoroughly good, and should never be made until really wanted, as freshness of flavor is a matter of first importance. Prepare stock from leg of beef; that from bones and odd pieces will not do for this soup ; it must be strong and of a clear golden-brown color and without a particle of grease ; such as may be secured by stewing about six pounds of leg of beef slowly for one or two hours in three quarts of water; then pour off the stock, let stand till cold and the meat may be put on again to make a second stock for other purposes. To about three pints of this stock add from eight to tAvelve ripe tomatoes, accord- ing to size, cut in slices, or canned tomatoes may be used, one med- ium-sized onion, sliced, and a few slices of carrot and turnip ; boil half an hour and then strain off, taking care not to press any of the vegetables, which must not be over-cooked. To the clear soup add tablespoon of sugar and vinegar, one of Worcester sauce, and a lit- tle cayenne. If soup is not clear and bright, strain it through a folded towel in colander. Or skim and strain one gallon of stock made from nice fresh beef; take three quarts tomatoes, remove skin and cut out hard center, put through a fine sieve and add to the stock ; make a paste of butter and flour, and, when the stock begins to boil, stir in half a teacup, taking care not to have it lumpy ; boil twenty minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Two quarts canned tomatoes will answer. Some rub through a sieve and add teaspoon sugar, and others always stew the tomatoes as for cooking, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter, and then add to the stock, claiming the soup is richer and finer flavored by so doing ; and onions, carrots, and turnips may be added as in first recipe, cooking an hour and a half and rubbing all through puree sieve, then finish as above. With Cabbage., to gallon water add quart each to- matoes and cabbage, two onions, four good-sized potatoes, all chop- ped fine ; cook till tender, add two tablespoons butter with salt and pepper to taste and serve with toast and butter. With Corn., to a soup bone and water, add quart tomatoes, an onion, cucumber sliced, two ears grated corn, salt, pepper and pinch cayenne. Boil four hours, then 844 SOUPS. add tablespoon corn-starch dissolved in cold water ; strain before serving. With Rice, to two quarts stock add pint fresh or canned tomatoes, and cup boiled rice. Cook slowly half an hour and season to taste. Other vegetables may first be added, cooking an hour, then adding as above. For Meatless Tomato Soup, one quart each tomatoes and water ; stew till soft ; add teaspoon soda, allow to efifervesce, and add quart of boiling milk, salt, butter, and pepper to taste, with a little rolled cracker ; boil a few minutes and serve. Some do not use any water either with fresh or canned tomatoes, when cooking as above. Turkey Soup. — After a roasted turkey has been served a por- tion of the meat still adheres to the bones, especially about the neck ; "drumsticks" are left, or parts of the wings, and pieces rarely called for at table. If there is three-fourths of a cupful or more left, cut off carefully and reserve for Force-meat Balls. Break bones apart and with stuffing still adhering to them, put in soup kettle with three quarts water, tablespoon salt, a pod of red pepper broken into pieces, three or four blades of celery cut into half inch pieces, a bay leaf, three medium-sized potatoes, and two onions all sliced. If dinner hour is one o'clock the kettle should be over fire before eight o'clock in the morning ; or if the dinner is at six in the evening, it should be on by twelve o'clock. Let it boil slowly, but constantly until about half an hour before dinner; lift out bones, skim off fat, strain through colander and return to kettle. There will now be but little more than three pints of the soup. If more than this is desired, add a pint of hot milk or milk and cream to- gether ; but it will be very nice without this addition even though a little more water be added. Prepare Forcemeat Balls by chop- ping the scraps of turkey very fine ; take half a teaspoon cracker- crumbs, smoothly rolled, a email saltspoon of cayenne pepper, about double the quantity of salt, a little grated lemon peel and half a teaspoon powdered summer savory or thyme ; mix these together and add a raw beaten egg to bind them. Roll mixture into balls about the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the soup about ten minutes before serving. Have ready in tureen a large tablespoon of parsley, cut very fine. Pour in soup and send to table hot. If Force-meat Balls are not liked, boil two eggs for half an hour, cut in slices, put them in tureen with parsley, and pour soup over them ; or slices of bread (not too thick) can be toasted, buttered on both sides, cut into inch squares, and substituted for the sliced eggs. If wished richer use stock instead of water and some use a little thickening of arrowroot or corn-starch, some vermicelli or macaroni and a tablespoon of any highly flavored sauce or catsup. In this or any soup some of the ingredients may be omitted if not at hand and soup will still be good. Turnip Soup. — Put two thin slices nice lean ham in cold water to cook J in half hour add four thinly sliced turnips with more cold SOUPS. 845 water ; as soon as tender, add half as many sliced potatoes as tur- nips. These will cook in twenty minutes ; season with salt, pepper, and a piece of butter ; cup cream improves it, and the ham may first be fried in kettle. Or melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, add the sliced turnip as above with two onions also sliced ; when browned add cup water and cook an hour, then add two quarts any stock and simmer half an hour ; rub through a sieve, reheat and serve. The cream may be added to this also. If wanted a white soup do not brown the vegetables. For a Swiss Soup, cook six potatoes and three turnips sliced in six quarts water five hours or until perfectly dissolved and the consistency of Pea Soup, filling up as it boils away ; add butter size of an egg, season with salt and pepper, and serve. A small piece salt pork, a bone or bit of veal or lamb, and an onion may be added to vary this soup. For Royal Soup, cut the turnips into very small round balls and simmer till tender in two quarts of Bouillon ; add half cup strong veal stock and teaspoon sugar and pour in tureen in which pint of Croutons have been placed. Turtle Soup. — Day before the soup is required, hang up turtle by hind fins, cut off" head, and leave to bleed and drain all night. In morning lay on its back on table, cut off fore fins, separate cal- ipash (upper shell), from calipee (under shell), beginning at hind fins ; be very careful in cutting flesh off the spine not to touch the gall bag, hold the knife sloping towards the bones. Cut off all fat that will be found adhering to calipash, and lean of calipee, then cut off" hind fins. Remove ^11 meat from calipee, and also from fins, cut into pieces two inches square, and put into a saucepan. Hold cali- pash, calipee and fins in scalding — not boiling — water for a few min- utes, which will cause the shells to separate easily. This done, cut shells into pieces six inches square, and put them into kettle with some light veal stock. Boil until meat is tender, take out and put into cold water, free meat from bones, and cut into inch-square pieces. Return bones to stock, boil gently two hours and then this portion of the stock is fit for use. Cut fins into pieces an inchAvide, boil in stock with an onion, two or three cloves, a bunch of parsley or thyme and a sprig of sweet basil and marjoram. When these are tender, take out and add this stock to the other. Now put lean meat into sauce- pan with a pint of Madeira or Sherry ; or water and Tarragon or plain vinegar half and half, four tablespoons chopped green shallot, two sliced lemons, a bunch of thyme, marjoram, sweet basil and savory — about a tablespoon of each when chopped, with double the quantity of parsley. Pound together one nutmeg, twelve allspice, one blade of mace, five or six cloves and a tablespoon each pepper and salt ; add teaspoon curry-powder, and put two-thirds of this to the lean meat, with a quarter pound fresh butter and a quart stock. Let stew gently until meat is done. While turtle is in preparation, have a large knuckle of ham cut into small dice and put into a stew- 846 SOUPS. ]ian witli four large onions sliced, six bay leaves, three blades mace, twelve allspice, three-fourths pound butter, and cover with veal stock. Let this all simmer together till onions are melted, or like jelly. Shred fine a small bunch of basil, a large one of thyme, sav- ory and marjoram, and put to the onions, keeping them as green as possible. When done, sift into it a little flour, enough to thicken the soup. Then by degrees add stock in which calipash and cali- pee were boiled, and the seasoning stock maile from the lean turtle meat. Boil all together one hour, and then rub through a very tine strainer or woolen cloth, add salt, cayenne, and lemon to suit the taste. Now put in the meat of the turtle and let all boil together half an hour and serve. These directions are for a turtle of about fift}' pounds, and the ingredients can be increased or diminished according to size. Yolks of hard-boiled eggs are nice placed in tureen before adding soup, or make Force-meat Balls as follows ; take about a pound of fleshy i>art of a leg of veal, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantit}" of bread-crumbs. When well soaked, scjueeze it, and put into a mortar Avith the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne, salt, and spices, and pound very fine ; then thicken mixture with two whole eggs and yolk of another. Try this stuffing in boiling hot water, to ascertain its consistency; if it is too thin, add another yolk. When perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg ; poach it in boiling salted water, and Avhen very hard drain on a sieve, and put it into the soup. Before serving squeeze the juice of two or three lemons upon a little cayenne and add to soup. For Mock Terrapin Soup, use small lobe liver, about a cup full, calves' liver best; cut in very small pieces, less than half an inch square, boil in hot water half an hour with teaspoon salt, then put heaping tablespoon butter and flour in saucepan, stir till mixed brown, then add water in which liver was boiled, half cup at a time stirring smooth, adding more hot water if needed to make soup right consistency, less thick than gravy ; season with salt, pep- per, a dust of cayenne pepper and very little pinch of nutmeg, pow- dered cloves and allspice. Put in sliced liver, let boil just once, and then serve and with it a little dish of finely-chopped lemon. Veal Soup. — To about three pounds of a well-broken joint of veal, add four quarts water, let boil, skim and simmer two or three hours ; prepare one-fourth pound macaroni by boiling by itself with enough water to cover and season to taste with salt and pepper, and add the macaroni with the Avater in which it was boiled. Onions or celery may be added for flavoring. Vegetable Soup. — After boiling a soup bone or piece of beef un- til done, add to the broth boiling water to make the amount of soup sou'ps. 847 wanted, and when boiling again add a large handful of cabbage cut fine as for slaw, a half pint of tomatoes, canned or fresh ; peel and slice and add three large or four small onions,two or three jjotatoes and some use a half teacup of dried or half pint of green corn (if dried it should be soaked). Let boil from half to three-quarters of an hour ; if thickening is wished stir an egg or yolk with a large spoon- ful milk and teaspoon flour, and put in five or ten minutes before taking off ; this makes it very rich. Serve with crackers. Or With- out Meat, take three each onions, carrots, and turnips, one small cabbage, one pint tomatoes ; chop all the vegetables except the to- matoes very fine, have ready jn a porcelain kettle three quarts boil- ing water, put in all except cabbage and tomatoes and simmer for half an hour, then add the chopped cabbage and tomatoes (the tomatoes previously stewed), also a bunch of sweet herbs. Let soup boil for twenty minutes, strain through sieve, rubbing all the vegetables through. Beat two tablespoons best butter ancl one of flour to a cream. Now pepper and salt soup to taste, and add a teaspoon white sugar, a half cup of sweet cream if at hand and then stir in the butter and flour ; let boil up and it is ready for table. Serve with Croutons, or poached eggs one in each dish. Or slice cabbage, carrots, turnips, parsnips, and cook as above, always re- membering to have water or stock boiling in which vegetables are placed ; when tender add stewed tomatoes rubbed through a sieve or not as wished ; whenever tomatoes are used in any soup it is a very great improvement to first stew them, either fresh or canned, seas- oning with butter, salt and pepper ; this makes a little more trouble but the soup is very much finer flavored. When done, if soup is wished richer add any stock on hand till flavored as wished, boil up once and serve. Cooking the vegetables tender in water is more economical than using stock as in adding latter at last, only a small quantity need be used to produce required flavor ; or recooking a soup bone adding vegetables as soon as it boils makes a nice soup. When a thickening is added some put in a teaspoon of mustard with the flour, etc. Celery cooked with the vegetables is always a nice addition and a little flavoring of onion is almost a necessity. A slice of well toasted bread is added with the vegetables by some, rubbing all through sieve and when reheating adding teaspoon or two of some bottled sauce. With So2ir Cream, to three or four quarts any vegetable soup add cup sour cream just before serving. Vermicelli Soup. — Put one chicken trussed for boiling in ket- tle with a pound or so of bacon and three quarts water and cook till tender; in the meantime cook two or three ounces vermicelli in a little water or stock till quite tender ; take out chicken and bacon on dish for serving; add vermicelli to soup and serve. Some stick eight or ten cloves in bacon. Weimar Soup. — Cut any pieces of corned beef or salt pork, about two pounds, in small pieces, add two or three quarts water 848 SOUPS. and simmer two or three hours ; add three each carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes and stalks celery and one small cabbage, all cut in thin small slices. Add gill oatmeal, cook an hour and serve with- out straining. Split pease may be used adding them Avith the meat. The meat may need soaking if very salt. Any Bouillon or stock may be made of corned beef using more water with it when prepar- ing for serving, and always when boiling corned beef save the broth for either soup or gravy. A soup can be made like the Weimar of fresh meat. White Soup. — Cover bones from cooked chickens ; three pounds veal bones, cracked in pieces, pound l^n veal cut in small pieces, a minced onion and bunch parsley with cold water and liquor in which chickens were cooked if boiled. Simmer two or three hours, strain, return to kettle, season, boil up, skim, and add pint milk and as much cooked farina as wished ; place on back of stove, simmer ten minutes and then add a beaten egg first mixed well with a cup of the soup, keep covered a moment or two and then serve. Or cook gently an hour and a quarter a half pint each white turnip and cel- ery and half a gill onion, all cut in small pieces with a blade of mace in one gallon White Stock. Strain, reheat, add tablespoon corn-starch mixed smoothly in Avater, let boil,^dd cup sweet cream and season with salt and white jjepper. Add egg as above and serve. Wyntoun Sottp- — r*ut three pounds neck of mutton, meat sliced and bones broken, in three quarts water, with two each carrots and turnips sliced and cook four hours ; take out meat and bones, rul) soup and vegetables through sieve, let cool, take off fat, reheat, season and add half cup barley, soaked overnight, and quart green pease ; simmer half an hour, add teaspoon sugar and serve. Or cook half cup barley in quart Avater till tender, add C{uarter of a turnip, if large, a small onion and two potatoes, all chopped fine ; when cooked add more water and stock from boiled corned beef till well flavored and seasoned. Remove to back of stove, add pint cream or milk and serve. Balls for Soup. — There are many different articles served in soup besides those given, such as fancy letters, stars, triangles, etc., which may be purchased, and also the French Paste which comes in squares in little boxes. This is used more for coloring and flavor- ing; place in tureen and pour soupover it, stirring assoup is served. Among the diflerent balls used are the Egff Halls, mix raw egg with just enough flour or corn-starch to make into round balls, then drop into soup and boil ten minutes. A little milk, a teaspoon to one egg, is an improvement ; also a sprinkle of salt. Or for two quarts soup make balls by boiling one egg hard ; put yolk of it in a bowl, pound to a paste and l)reak in a raw egg yolk, add a dust cayenne pepper, tables])oon salad oil, saltspoon salt, and flour to SOUPS. 849 roll into balls with the hands about a teaspoon. Put dry flour on both hands, use saltspoon of mixture, or make a long roll and cut offends and make into balls ; have deep saucepan half full of boil- ing water, put in egg balls and let them boil till they come to top, then take out with strainer, put in soup when ready to serve, or some cook them in soup. They are also nice served with other dishes ; or to yolks of three eggs use one raw yolk and omit the salad oil. Some use the raw white of the egg rather than yolk and also care- fully fry brown in butter or any nice fat ; then place in tureen and pour over the soup. For Farina BaMs, boil quart milk in custard kettle, add salt and tablespoon butter, and thicken with farina. Cook well, and when cold stir one whole egg and one yolk through the mixture. Make into balls or shape with spoon, and drop in the boiling soup just before serving. For Force-meat Balls., add to pound chopped beef one egg, a small lump butter, a cup or less of bread-crumbs ; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with the water from stewed meat ; make in balls and fry brown ; or take slices of raw veal and a little salt pork, and chop very fine with a slice of wheat bread. Season highly with pepper, salt, tomato catsup, and chopped lemon peel, moisten with two well-beaten eggs, and roll into balls as large as a walnut, with floured hands. Fry the balls in butter to a dark brown, and let them cool ; turn into the soup and boil about ten minutes. Or for Veal Balls take half pint each minced cooked veal and bread-crumbs with half gill chopped suet seasoned Avith salt, pepper and any sweet herbs liked. Add beaten egg sufficient to make into balls and fry brown. These are used for the richer soups such as Calf's-head, etc. For Force-meat Balls for Fish Soups, pick meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, with the soft parts, in a bowl ; add six stalks boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, salt, cayenne and little mace, and gill or more of bread-crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is well mixed ; melt two tablespoons butter and add with two well-beaten eggs ; make into balls about an inch in diameter, and fry brown. Place in tureen, add soup and serve. Some add half an anchovy, pounded. For German Balls, mix together butter and cracker-crumbs into a firm round ball and drop into soup a short time before serving. These are especially nice for Chicken Soup. Putting slices of lemon and hard-boiled eggs in tureen and adding soup makes a dainty dish, and where the eggs are not sliced, but simply the whole "boiled yolk used it is certainly "fit to set before the king." Croutons. — These are different shapes of bread, without crust, cut and fried or toasted. For Soups, cut in dice about third of an inch square or even less and fry in butter in frying-pan or in a ket- tle of smoking-hot fat like fritters till a golden brown, drain and add to tureen or put a spoonful in each dish and add soup. Some simply toast the bread, then cut it; or butter or not as wished, cut and toast in oven, serving as above. Crackers crisped in oven are 850 SOUPS. nice for Oyster soup. For Entrees, cut bread in heart-shaped pieces about two inches long and half an inch thick and fry or toast as above. For Vegetahles, cut in triangular pieces one and a half inches long, same thickness and fry as above. Dumplhujs. — These are a nice addition to soups and are made in many ways, but however made, a little cold water should be added to soup to stop the boiling just before they are put in (there are one or two exceptions) and then the soup must not cease boiling for at least ten or fifteen minutes when they will be done; it is also very important the cover fits closely that steam does not escape. For Buckeye Dumplbigs, take half pint sweet milk, two eggs, iind enough flour to make stiff batter; drop off spoon into the soup and cook ten minutes. For Marroiu Dumplings^ which are very deli- cate and can be varied in seasoning to suit any soup, beat one ounce uncooked marrow and tablespoon butter to a cream ; add two well-beaten eggs and half pint bread-crumbs which should previously well be soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. When well mixed add teaspoon each minced parsley and onion with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, omitting the minced onions where the flavor is very much dishked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings. Drop these into boihng soup and let them simmer for about half an hour. Serve in soup and they are also very nice with roast meats or salad. Grated lemon peel and mace make a nice seasoning and they are ready to serve as soon as they rise to .'sur- face ; butter may be omitted if wished. For Suet Dumplings, take pint and a half flour, two thirds of a pint l>eef suet, half teaspoon baking powder, saltsjioon salt, half pint of cold water. Mix in a large bowl, the suet, hnoly chopped, and flour ; add to this the bak- ing powder and salt and knead into a dr}'- dough with the water. Divide this dough in small pieces, roll each piece in a little ball and throw them one by one into the boiling soup twenty minutes before serving. The dropping of balls cools the boiling soup and care should therefore be taken to wait an instant between the putting in of each one that the liquid may ])oil up, otherwise the balls will burst apart. This is one of tbe exceptions to general rule. For Sussex Dumplings, mix quart flour Avith half pint water and little salt making a smooth paste ; form into balls and drop in soup. For Quick Dunwliiigs, take pint of flour, measured before sifting ; half teaspoon soda, teasi)oon cream tartar, one of sugar and half of salt,, and mix thoroughly, sifting once or twice, and a teacup milk. Sprinkle a little flour on l)oard. Turn the dough (which should have been stirred into a smooth ball with a spoon) on it, roll half inch thick, cut into small cakes, and cook ten minutes, and when these are added to soup have it boiling. Light biscuit dough makes nice dumplings and when used roll thin, cut and roll into balls and finish as directed, although some prefer to steam them and then place in tureen and pour soup over them. SOUPS. 851 Mixed Spices. — These with herbs prepared by professional cooks, may be had in large cities, and save much trouble. For the benefit of those who cannot obtain them we give two of the best recipes. Take one ounce each nutmegs and mace, two ounces each cloves and white pepper-corns ; an ounce each sweet basil, marjoram and thyme, and half an ounce bay leaves. The herbs must of course be previously dried as directed, page 163. Pound the spices to crack them, then put all between two sheets white paper folded to cover them tightly and put in warm place to become perfectly dry. Then pound quickly, put through a sieve and put away in tightly corked bottles. Or mix one ounce each lemon-thyme, winter savory, sweet marjoram and basil, two ounces parsley,and an ounce lemon peel,all previously dried ; pound, sift and bottle as above. Mint, sage, pars- ley and all herbs should be dried, pounded and sifted and bottled separately for winter use. Black pepper, when prepared as a con- diment, should be powdered not ground, that all heating may be avoided, and the volatile oil and fine aromatic flavor retained. 852 VEGETABLES. VEG-ETABLES. All vegetables are better cooked in soft water, provided it is clean and pure; if hard water is used, put in small pinch of soda. The water should be freshly drawn, and should only be put over fire in time to reach the hoiling point before the hour for putting in vegetables, as standing and long boiling frees the gases and renders the water insipid. The fresher all vegetables are, the more whole- some. After being washed thoroughly, put them in the hoiling water using only enough to cook them, as when much is to be drained off some of the sweetness of the vegetables is lost. If they are fresh they will not need to be placed in cold water before cook- ing ; but if not so, then let stand half an hour in it, but some of the flavor is thereby lost. Keep water boiling all the time, and if more has to be added, let it be boiling; do not cook too long, only till tender^ as too long cooking is A'ery injurious. This is true of all vegetables ; they must be thor- oughbj done, that is cooked tender, one can eas- ily test them, and should then be eervecl at once. Where there is danger from burning, the kettle illustrated is of great service. It is very nice for spinach, etc., where it is cooked without water. While all are best fresh, green corn and pease ^-b^i^^uk .."ue. must be so to be in their prime. The proportion of salt in cooking vegetables is a heaping tablespoon to every gallon of water, added when half done ; after vegeta])les are added, press down with a wooden spoon, skim when necessary, and for green vegetables, such as asparagus, pease, beans, etc., do not put cover on the kettle or saucepan. If one is very particular about preserving their color ; when done, drain and place in cold salted water a moment or two or till VEGETABLES. 853 ready to use, then reheat, season and serve. Sometimes pease, beans, etc., do not boil easily and it has usually been imputed to the cold- ness of the season, or the rains. This peculiar notion is erroneous. The difficulty of boiling them soft arises from an excess of gypsum imbibed during their growth. To correct this, throw a small quant- ity of carbonate of soda (common baking soda) in the pot with the vegetables. For keeping vegetables fresh for present use, see Keep- ing Fruits and Vegetables. Never split onions, turnips and carrots, but slice them in rings cut across the fiber, as they thus cook tender much quicker. If the home garden furnishes the supply of pease, spinach, green beans, asparagus, etc., pick them in the morning early, when the dew is on, and put them in a clean cool place, near ice if possible. A piece of red pepper the size of finger nail, dropped into meat or vegetables when first beginning to cook, will aid greatly in killing the unpleasant odor. Remember this for boiled cabbage, green beans, onions, mutton and chicken. All vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, and require a longer time late in their season. Cabbage, potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions and beets are injured for some by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also in- jure the flavor of the meat. In cutting vegetables in fancy shapes a set of vegetable cutters that come nicely packed in a box are very convenient. The "regula- tion" greens such as dandelions, Vegetable Cutteis. spinach, sorrel, horseradish and beet tops, mustard, borage, chicory, and corn salad are sometimes cooked alone and sometimes with salt pork as preferred. In preparing them, first wash them leaf by leaf in warm water, rather more than tepid, having a dish of cold water to place them in immediately. The warm water more cer- tainly cleans the leaf and does not destroy the crispness if they are placed at once in cold water with a little salt in it. But whether washed in warm water or cold water, take them leaf by leaf, break- ing the heads ofi", not cutting them, and they will often need two or three waters as they are sometimes quite sandy. To guard against insects some put a little salt, tablespoon to a quart, in the water in which they are washed, using cold water for this. Steaming is a very easy and satisfactory way in which to cook most vegetables, especially those of a watery nature and many prefer it to boiling. 854 VEGETABLES. The patent steamers are very convenient as two or more vegetables can be steamed at once without the mingling of flavors. These are some of the general suggestions for cooking vegetables but as there are so many individual ones each recipe will be a law unto itself. Artichokes. — There are two varieties ; the Jerusalem, resembl- ing potatoes, which scrape, placing at once in cold, salted water in which a half gill vinegar has been added ; when ready to cook, place in boiling water to not quite cover and boil till tender, about half an hour, salting just before they are done. Drain and pour over a sauce made by browning in frying pan three tablespoons butter and one of flour, adding half pint vinegar, a little salt, speck cayenne, half teaspoon sugar and boiling up once. This makes a dish much relished. They can also be mashed as potatoes, or Fried, by slic- ing very thin and placing in the vinegar water as above; drain oflf water, and season with pinch salt and pepper. Break eggs into a bowl, add three teaspoons salad oil and teaspoon flour, mix thor- oughly, and pour over the artichokes ; stirring them with the hand lightly so as to cover every portion of theai with the mixture. Fry very gently of a light gold color, drain on blotting paper, and pile them up in a white napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve. For the Cardoon Artichoke in which the tops are what are used, wash artichokes well in several waters; see that no insects remain about them, and trim away leaves at bottom. Cut off stems and put tops into boiling water, to which have been added tablespoon salt and pinch soda. Keep saucepan uncovered, and let boil quickly until tender; ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the leaves can be easily removed. Take them out, let them drain for a minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or with a little White Sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accompany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is bet- ter for being gathered two or three days ; but they must bo well soaked and washed previous to dressing. For Fried Artichokes^ boil as above and when tender, take up, rub over with lemon juice, remove the chokes and divide the bottoms ; dip each piece into bat- ter, fry in hot lard or dripping and serve, garnished with crisped parsley and accompanied with Drawn Butter Sauee. Asparagus. — In gathering asparagus, never cut it off, but snap or break it ; in this way the white, woody part, which no boiling can make tender, is left in ground. Cook as Asparagus Toast on page 58; or cut asparagus, when boiled, into little bits, leaving out white end, make gravy as in above recipe, put cut asparagus into a hot dish, and turn the gravy over and serve ; or use only a little water, drain and add cream for the gravy. A simple manner of boiling aspara- VEGETABLES 855 gus is to tie in a bundle, or some first wrap in cotton cloth and then tie, and set upright in a saucepan containing boiling water enough to reach nearly to the tender tips ; boil rapidly till tender ; lay a napkin on a hot platter, take out asparagus, drain for a moment, place on napkin, unwrap, and fold over the asparagus the corners of the napkin, and serve in this form, with White g Sauce in a gravy-boat ; or On Toast, by cooking as above and then dip toast in asparagus water, place on a hot dish and lay the asparagus on each Asparagus on Toast. slice with bits of butter between the stalks. For Ambushed Aspara- gus or Asparagus Rolls, cut off tender tops of fifty heads of aspar- agus ; boil and drain them. Have ready as many stale biscuits or rolls as there are persons to be served, from which you have cut a neat top slice and scooped out the inside. Set them in the oven to crisp, laying the tops beside them, that all may dry together. Mean- while boil the stalks in a little water, skim out and add a cup of milk or cream, then beat in yolks of two eggs ; set over fire and stir till it thickens, when add a tablespoon butter, and season with salt and pepper. Into this put asparagus, minced fine and remove from fire at once. Fill the rolls with mixture, put on tops, fitting them carefully ; set in oven three minutes, after which arrange on a dish, and serve hot. More eggs can be used and any proportion of asparagus, sauce, etc., may be made. This seems like an [elaborate dish, but it is not difficult to make and in the early season is a nice way of making a small quantity serve quite a number. For Fried Asparagus, blanch it a couple of minutes, and then drain ; dip each piece in batter and fry in hot fat. When done, sprinkle with salt and serve hot. This is nice and eas}^ to prepare. For Asparagus Pudding, boil tender the green tops of two bunches of asparagus, let cool, and cut up small. Beat together four eggs and tablespoon butter J add three qf flour, cup milk, and the asparagus, with a seas- oning of salt and pepper and some add a tablespoon finely-minced boiled ham ; put in a well-greased mold with a top, and cook in a pot of boiling water nearly two hours. Turn out on a dish and pour a cup of brown butter over it. Pease Pudding made same with green pease. Either are very delicious. For Asparagus Salad, boil and let cool in ice-box, and serve with a sauce made of vinegar, pepper, and salt or any Salad Dressing. For Asparagus Sauce, cut a pint of asparagus in half-inch pieces, boil tender, rub through sieve and add veal gravy mixed with yolks of eggs and a little salt and cayenne. For Eggs and Asparagus, cut tender asparagus into pieces half an inch long, and boil twenty minutes, then drain till dry, and put into a saucepan containing a cup of rich drawn butter; heat together to a boil, season with pepper and salt, and pour into abuttered dish. Break half a dozen eggs over the surface, put a bit of butter upon each, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put in the oven until the eggs are set. 856 VEGETABLES. Butter Beans. — With a knife cut off the ends of pods and strings from both sides, being very careful to remove every shred ; cut every bean lengthwise, in two or three strips, and leave them for half an hour in cold water. Much more than cover them with boil- ing water; boil till perfectly tender. It is Avell to allow three hours for boiling. Drain well, return to kettle, and add a dressing of half a gill cream, one and a half ounces butter, one even teaspoon salt, and half a teaspoon pepper. This is sufficient for a quart of cooked beans. For String Beans, string, snap and wash two quarts beans, boil in plenty of water about fifteen minutes, drain oft' and put on again in about two quarts boiling water ; boil an hour and a half, and add salt and pepper just before taking up, stirring in one and a half tablespoons butter rubbed into two of flour and half pint sweet cream. Or, boil a piece of salt pork one hour, then add beans and boil an hour and a half. Or for Castle Beans, put on string beans in boiling water and after cooking an hour add a half pound of salt pork and cook three hours ; add a little thickening if needed, and serve with Steamed Corn Bread, page 30. ¥ov Beans, French /Style, choose small young beans, strip oft' ends and stalks throwing them into cold water, Avash and drain well, boil in salted boiling water in a large saucepan ; drain, put in a clean saucepan, shake over the fire until they are quite hot and dry; add three tablespoons butter, one of veal or chicken broth, season Avith white pepper, salt and the juice of half a lemon, stir well and serve. To preserve color cook String Beans as follows : Take strings oft' small young beans, wash and cut in slivers by holding knife in diagonal shape, placing quite a lot of beans in a pile. Cook till tender, drain and place in cold salted water till time to use, when heat quickly, with salt, pep- per and butter or any nice dressing wished. If for salad do not re- heat. For Shelled Beans, boil half an hour in water to cover, and dress as in first recipe for String Beans; or when almost tender drain and put in saucepan with cup any stock, small bunch herbs and teaspoon sugar ; stew till perfectly tender and then add beaten yolk of one egg with gill cream and when hot, serve. For Bri/ Lifna Beans, wash one quart of dry lima beans in two warm waters, soak three hours, drain, and put on to cook in enough boiling water to cover them ; cover pot with tin lid, adding more hot water as it boils away, boiling rapidly for one and a half hours, when there should be'only water enough to come up to the top of the beans — just sufficient to make a nice dressing. Five minutes before taking up, season with salt and pepper, and stir in a dressing made of one tablespoon each of flour and butter, rubbed together until smooth. This is a delicious dish. Any dried beans can be cooked same way. A recipe is given for Boston Baked Beans in Meats, but we add one With Onions, wash well and soak quart beans, small ones are best, in water to cover ; place in hot water and parboil till skin cracks ; put small onion in bottom of bean pot, put beans in, and add one VEGETABLES. 857 tablespoon molasses to every quart of beans, a quarter of a pound salt pork scored on the top, and a little salt and pepper. Fill the pot with the water from beans, and let it stand in the oven where it will bake very slowly for twelve hours. As the water dries out, add more. The beans must be light brown when done. Beets. — Remove leaves, wash clean, being careful not to break off the little fibers or rootlets, as the juices would thereby escape and they would lose their color ; boil in plenty of water loithout salt, if young, two hours, if old, four or five hours, or till one will yield to pressure, never try with a fork ; take out, drop in a pan of cold water, and slip off the skin with the hands ; slice those needed for imme- diate use, place in a dish, add salt, pepper, butter, and if not very sweet a teaspoon sugar, set over boiling water to heat thoroughly, and serve hot with or without vinegar ; for Pickled Beets, put those which remain into a stone jar whole, cover with vinegar, keep in a cool place, take out as wanted, slice and serve. A few pieces of horseradish put into the jar will prevent a white scum on the vine- gar. For Baked Beets, bake in skins till tender, turning often to bake evenly, testing as above ; or roast in hot ashes, peel, dress and serve as above. For Marbled Beets, after they are boiled and skin- ned, mash together with boiled potatoes, and season to taste with salt; add a large piece of butter (do not use any milk) ; place in a dish, make a hole in center in which put in another piece of but- ter; sprinkle with pepper and serve at once. This is a New Eng- land dish, and very delicious for harvest time, when beets are young and sweet. For Beet Pudding, wash, boil and skin white or red beets ; slice and cut in small squares like a grain of corn, to one pint add one pint milk, two eggs well beaten, a little salt and pepper ; put in buttered baking dish and bake till custard is firm, fifteen or twenty minutes. Beets are especially valuable as an article of food on account of the sugar they contain. When they are used for a salad such as the Russian, after skinning cut in slices an inch thick, take the small apple corer, cut out the cylinder shaped pieces and prepare with the other vegetables. For Beet Greens, wash young beets very clean, cut off tips of leaves, looking over carefully to see that no bugs or worms remain, but do not separate roots from leaves ; fill kettle half full of salted boiling water, tablespoon to two quarts, add beets, boil rapidly from half to three-quarters of an hour ; take out and drain in colander, pressing down with a largo spoon, so as to get out all the water. Dish and dress with butter, pepper, and salt if needed. Serve very quickly as they cool so soon. They can be dressed at table with vinegar and are very delicious. Cook Brussels Sprouts in same way, some adding a pinch of soda. Broccoli, — Strip off dead outside leaves, and cut inside ones off level with the flower; cut off stalk close at bottom, and put brocoli into cold salt and water, with heads downwards. When they have 858 VEOE'j :.;. remained in this for about three-quarters of an hour, and are 'per- fectly free from insects, put them into a saucepan ho'iUng salted water, and keep boiling quickly over a brisk fire, with the saucepan uncovered. Take up moment they are done : drain well, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left in the water after it is done it will break, its color will be spoiled, and its crispness gone. Boiled Cahhage. — Wash, take off decayed leaves, cut in rather small pieces and put in Z»o/Z///.^ salted water; do not have kettle more than half full of cabbage and keep water boiling rapidly all the time till tender, which can be tested by trying the thick part near- est the stalk. It will not take over fifteen or twenty minutes for new cabbage and about thirty or forty for old. The cause of the strong odor from cooking cabbage is from cooking too long, as in that case the oil begins to escape from it. The flavor is also injured by too long cooking as after vegetables of all kinds are tender the water begins to penetrate them and they should be served at once. Dram and serve by itself or with a Vinegar, Drawn Butter, Cream or White Sauce poured over it. Some only cut in halves or quar- ters and tie in netting or thin muslin. For Creamed Cabbage, slice as for cold slaw and stew in a covered saucepan till tender ; drain it, return to saucepan, add a gill or more of rich cream, tablespoon but- ter, pep])er and salt to taste ; let simmer two or three minutes, then serve. Milk may be used by adding a little more butter; or have a deep spider hot, put in sliced cal)bage, pour quickly over it a pint of boiling water, just enough to keep from burning, cover close and cook till tender, and add half pint rich milk without draining the cabbage. When the milk boils, stir in teaspoon flour moistened with little milk, season, cook a moment and serve ; or add when tender, teaspoon or so of sugar and only cream enough to moisten nicely and just before taking from fire stir in a little vinegar. For Delicate Cabbage, remove all defective leaves, quarter and cut as for coarse slaw, cover well with cold water, and let remain several hours before cooking, then drain and put into i)ot with enough boil- ing water to cover; boil until thoroughly cooked, add salt ten or fifteen minutes before removiiig from fire, and when done, take up into a colander, press out water well, and season with butter and pepper. This is a good dish to serve with corned meats, but should not be cooked with them ; if preferred, however, it may be seasoned by adding some of the liquor and fat from the boiling meat to cab- bage while cooking. For Rogal Cabbage, cook in (juarters in boil- ing salted water with a small pinch soda, for seven minutes, skim out and place in another saucepan of boiling water ten niinutes, then skim out into first saucejian with fresh boiling water and cook ten minutes or till tender ; drain and serve on slices of toast dipped in melted butter and over all pour a Cream Dressing. For Fried Cabbage, cut cabbage very fine, on a slaw cutter, if possible; salt VEGETABLES. 859 and pepper, stir well, and let stand five minutes. Have an iron kettle smoking hot, drop one tablespoon lard or part butter and lard into it, then the cabbage, stirring briskly until quite tender ; send to table immediately. One half cup sweet cream, and three table- spoons vinegar — the vinegar added after the cream has been well stirred in and after taken from stove, is an agreeable change. When properly done an invalid can eat it without injury, and there is no offensive odor from cooking. For Heidelberg^ Cahhage, select two small, solid heads of hard red cabbage ; divide in halves from crown to stem; lay the split side down, and cut downwards in thin slices. The cabbage will then be in narrow strips or shreds. Put into a saucepan a tablespoon of clean urippings, butter or any nice fat ; when fat is hot, put in cabbage a teaspoon salt, three tablespoons vinegar (if latter is very strong, use but two), and one onion, in which three or four cloves have been stuck, buried in the middle ; boil two hours and a half; if it becomes too dry and is in danger of scorching, add a very little water. This is very nice. For Synced Cabbage, trim and wash a medium-sized head and shave in rather thin slices, put in a saucepan heaping tablespoon of cold drippings or butter, the same of sugar, half cup vinegar, teaspoon each whole cloves, pepper-corns and salt ; put in cabbage, cover with lid and cook very slowly for three-quarters of an hour or till tender, on back of stove. Every fifteen minutes stir cabbage so as to put uncooked parts to the bottom. Serve on platter with a piece of Braised Meat on it, moistening the cabbage with a little of the broth from the cooked meat. For Southern Cabbage, chop or slice one medium-sized cab- bage fine, put it in stewpan with boiling water to well cover it, and boil fifteen minutes ; drain off all water, and add dressing made as follows : Half teacup vinegar, two-thirds as much sugar, salt, pep- per, half teaspoon mustard, and two teaspoons salad oil ; when this is boiling hot, add one teacup cream, and one egg stirred together ; mix thoroughly and immediately with the cabbage, and cook a moment. Serve hot. For IStuif'ed Cabbage, take a large, fresh cabbage and cut out heart; fill vacancy with stuffing made of cooked chicken or veal, chopped very fine and highly seasoned and rolled into balls with yolk of egg. Then tie cabbage firmly together (some tie a cloth around it), and boil in a covered kettle two hours. This is a delicious dish and is useful in using up cold meats. Or scald for ten minutes, make cavity in center, by the stalk, and fill it be- tween every leaf with any forcemeat ; bind it so that it does not let the stuffing drop out, and put it in a pan with some gravy, a slice of bacon, a stick of thyme, a bay leaf, and two carrots. Stew all gently together, and when done, untie the string, and serve with the strained gravy round it. For Cabbage Pudding, boil a firm, white cabbage fifteen minutes, changing water then for more from the boiling tea-kettle ; when tender, drain and set aside till perfectly cold ; chop fine, and add two beaten eggs, a tablespoon of butter, 8(50 VEGETABLES. three of very rich milk or cream, pepper and salt. Stir all -well together, and bake in a buttered pudding dish until brown ; serve hot. This dish is digestible and palatable, much resembling cauli- flower. Fur Brussels Sprouts, soak in water a short time, and wash clean, boil in palted water and when done, strain and fry in a tablespoon butter, in which has been browned a tablespoon flour and u small onion cut fine ; add pepper and salt to taste. Stewed Carrots. — Take any quantity desired, divide the carrots lengthwise, and boil until perfectly tender, which will require from one to two hours. When done, have ready a saucepan with one or two tablespoons butter, and small cup cream ; slice tiie carrots very thin, or cut in dice and put in the saucepan ; add salt and pepper, and let stew ten or fifteen minutes, stirring gently once or twice, and serve in a vegetable dish. Some add more milk or cream ; when done, skim out carrots, and to the cream add a little flour thicken- ing, or the beaten yolks of one or two eggs. When it boils, pour over the carrots and serve. Carrots may also be boiled with meat like turnips or parsnips and are especially nice with corned beef, but they take longer to cook than either. For Glased Carrots, peel some young carrots all to the same size and shape ; parboil in boil- ing water; drain, and warm in saucepan with butter, a pinch of powdered sugar and little stock ; when boiled, increase fire, and cook until sauce is reduced to a glaze. For Carrot Compote, scrape and slice quarter of an inch thick, stew in water till tender, drain, weigh and to each pound carrots allow pound sugar and cup cider vinegar; cook all together and flavor with orange peel cut very thin, cinnamon and cloves. For Warmed Over Carrots, melt in a spider a piece of batter half the size of an egg. Slice in boiled carrots, and season with pepper and salt. Just before taking up add half cu]) of cream or milk, or omit either and serve them nicely browned. They are liked by some better than when first cooked. Parsnips can be prepared in the same way. Boiled CauliHower. — To each two quarts water allow heaping tablespoon salt; choose close and white cauliflower, trim oft' decayed outside leaves, and cut stock off" flat at bottom ; open flower a little in places to remove insects which generally are found about the stalk, and let cauliflowers lie with heads downward in salt and Avater for two hours previous to dressing them which will effectually draw out all vermin. Then ])ut in boiling water, adding salt in above proportion, and boil briskly for fifteen or twenty minutes over a good fire, keeping saucepan uncovered. Water should be well skimmed, and when cauliflowers are tender, take up, drain, and if large enough, place upright in dish ; serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flowers, or a White Sauce may be used made as follows : Putbuttcr size of an egg into saucepan, and when it bubbles stir in a scant half teacup flour ; stir VEGETABLES. 861 well with an egg-whisk until cooked ; then add two teacups of thin cream, some pepper and salt. Stir it over the fire until perfectly- smooth. Pour the sauce over the cauliflower and serve. Many let the cauliflower simmer in the sauce a few moments ^^';^!'^'^'^'^-^'^^^.^^,^ before serving. Cauliflower is delicious served as %^^' ""' '"^ a garnish around spring chicken, or with fried ^^^ sweet-breads, when the White Sauce should be Boned cauuflower. poured over both. In this case it should be made by adding the cream, flour, and seasoning to the little grease (half a teaspoon) that is left after frying the chickens or sweet-breads. For Baked Cauliflower, prepare as above and parboil five minutes, cut into pieces and put into a pie dish ; add a little milk, season with salt, pepper, and butter, cover with dry grated cheese, and bake. For Scalloped Cauliflower, boil till tender, drain well and cut in small pieces ; put in layers with fine chopped egg and this dressing ; half pint milk thickened over boiling water, with two tablespoons flour and seasoned with two teaspoons salt; one of white pepper and two tablespoons butter ; put grated bread over the top, dot it with small bits of butter, and place it in the oven to heat thoroughly and brown. Serve in same dish in which it was baked. This is a good way to use common heads. A nicer way is to boil them, then place them whole in a buttered dish with stems down . Make sauce with cup bread-crumbs beaten to froth with two tablespoons melted butter and three of cream or milk, one well-beaten egg and salt and pepper to taste. Pour this over the cauliflower, cover dish tightly and bake six minutes in a quick oven, browning them nicely. Serve as above. Or With Mushrooms, put in a frying-pan, in hot fat a few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower broken into sprigs. Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well frorn time to time with the hot fat. For Cauliflower Salad, after boiling, let cool and dress with Mayonnaise or any dressing preferred. Stewed Celery. — Cut tender, white outside stalks of celery into three inch lengths and boil them for ten minutes in salted water. Then throw away the water and fill up instead with clear strained soup stock, add minced onion and parsley. Boil until the celerv is tender, add piece of butter softened and stirred up with flour, and shake the stew until thickened. Dish pieces in straight order and pour sauce over them. For Steioed Endive, cook as above in milk or cream, but do not season very highly. Boiled Corn. — Put well-cleaned ears in salted boiling water, boil three quarters of an hour, or boil in the inside husk for the same time, remove husks and serve immediately. Corn thoroughly cooked is a wholesome dish. Or a better way is to try Steamed Corn, put in steamer and cook an hour ; it is sweeter than if boiled 862 VEGETABLES. in water. For Fried Corn, cut corn from cob ; put in frying-pan with tablespoon butter, cover and cook twenty-five minutes, stir- ring occasionally, but adding no water. The steam will cook it, ii kept covered. Add salt, pepper and a cup of cream when done. For Stewed Buiiea Corn. Com., cut wltli a sharp knife through the center of every row of grains, and cut ofl' the outer edge ; then with the back of the blade push out the yellow eye, Avith the rich, creani}'^ center of the grain, leaving the hull on the cob. To one quart of this add half a pint rich milk, and stew until cooked in a covered tin pail, in a ket- tle one-third full of boiling water; then add salt, white pepper, and two or three ounces butter ; allow two hours for cooking ; it seems a long time, but there is no danger of burning, and it requires no more attention than to stir it occasioally and to keep good the sup- ply of water. If drier than liked, add more milk or cream. Or, after cutting corn from the cob, boil the cobs ten or fifteen minutes and take out and put corn in same water ; when tender, add a dress- ing of milk, butter, pepper and salt, and just before serving, stir in beaten eggs, allowing three eggs to a dozen ears of corn. Or, to three pints corn add three tablespoons butter, pepper and salt, and just enough water to cover ; place in a skillet, cover and cook rather slowly with not too hot a fire, from half to three-quarters of an hour, stir with a spoon often, and if necessary add more water, for the corn must not brown ; if desired, a few moments before it is done, add half cup sweet cream thickened with teaspoon flour; boil well and serve with roast beef, scalloped tomatoes and mashed potatoes. Some stew tomatoes, and just before serving mix them with the corn. For Corn Omelet, one dozen ears of corn, three eggs, salt to taste ; boil corn, cut it from the cob, mix with the eggs, and make in small omelets and fry. For Corn Pie, cut corn from two ears of boiled corn ; mix gill of milk, gradually, with tablespoon flour. Beat yolk and white of one egg separately, and add with tablespoon butter and teaspoon sugar to the flour and milk. Season and bake twenty-five minutes in a deep pie plate, Nice way in which to warm over corn left from dinner. A most delicious dish is Com P\t,d- ding, draw a sharp knife through each row of corn lengthwise, then scrape out the pulp ; to pint of corn add quart milk, three eggs, a little suet, sugar to taste, and a few lumps butter ; place in buttered pudding dish, stiroccasionally until thick, and bake about two hours. Serve as a vegetable, or may be served for dessert. In serving boiled corn it is nice to place a Corn Do'dey, made like the Fritter Doiley (working ears of corn in the ends) in the dish, put in corn and cover with ends. Dried Corn. — For a family of eight, wash a pint of corn through one water, and put to soak ov'^rnight in clean cold water (if impos- sible to soak so long, place over a kettle of hot water for two or three hours ;) when softened, cook half an hour in water in which it was soaked, adding more if needed, and as soon as boiling, two VEGETABLES. 863 tablespoons butter, one of flour, and a little salt and pepper. An- other good way to finish is the following : Take yolk of egg, table- spoon milk, pinch salt, thicken with flour quite stiff" so as to take out with a teaspoon, and drop in little dumplings not larger than an acorn ; cover tightly and cook five or ten minutes ; have enough water in kettle before adding dumplings, as cover should not be re- moved until dumplings are done. Some soak in milk adding more when put on to cook, but when this is done, place in custard kettle, as milk burns easily, and cook an hour or so. For Hulled Co7'?>., when prepared as directed in Winter Vegetables, or as may be bought, cook till tender, adding a little water if needed, season with salt and a tablespoon or two of cream added is an addition. Serve with cream and sugar, or eat as a vegetable with butter. It is delicious warmed over in a little butter, browning nicely. Fried Cucwnibers. — Pare and lay in ice water half an hour, cut lengthwise in half-inch slices, dredge with flour, single-bread and fry a delicate brown. For Steimd Cucumbers, cut in quarter-inch slices, pick out seeds, stew, and season like green pease ; or With Onions, pare and slice six cucumbers, take out seeds, and cut three medium-sized onions into thin slices ; put both into stewpan, with pint White Stock, and let boil for half an hour. Beat up yolks of two eggs, stir these into the sauce; add cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg ; bring to the point of boiling and serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle. This is a favorite dish with lamb or mutton chops and especially with Baited Steak, prepare round steak as for frying and then place in baking pan with a little boil- ing water, adding more as needed and just before serving add bits of butter and season to taste. This is nice where there is a quantity of steak to cook or the top of the stove is in use. Dandelions. — They are fit for use until they blossom. Cut off* the leaves, pick over carefully, wash in several waters, parboil in boiling water an hour, some using pinch of soda, drain well, add salted boiling water, and boil two hours ; when done, turn into a colander and drain, season with butter, and more salt if needed, and cut with a knife ; or after parboiling with soda as above boil with a piece of salt pork, omitting butter in dressing. Potatoes may be added about an hour before greens are done. Different greens are cooked as above or in different ways which are given. Cowslips make a fair substitute for dandelions but are rather insipid. Mus- tard is excellent, when tender, and should be cooked as above. Greens can be had through the season by sowing spinach, beets, and Swiss chard thickly in the garden beds, in a rich soil. They should be sown at intervals of two weeks, a few at a time. The Swiss chard has quite large leaves and stalks, but they are crisp and tender if grown well. It la,cks the delicious sweetness of the beet, but will be liked by any one fond of greens. Young beets are excellent eating, top and root. Where one has a garden always sow the seed thickly, 864 VEGETABLES. and tliin out when the phants become of sufficient size, using for greens, leaving those for winter use to mature in the rows. Spinach is a favorite old plant, and many families Avould not think of being without it. Lettuce is also good for greens, being very temljir and rich in flavor. If dandelion seed is sown in the garden, in good soil, and care is given the plants, one will be surprised to see how great an improvement cultivation makes in it. The leaves will be larger and thicker, and as rich soil induces a vigorous growth and a quick one, they will be much crisper and more tender than those gathered from roadside or meadow. Fried Egg Plant. — Peel and cut the purple kind, in slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and let drain on a tipped plate for three-quarters of an hour ; make a light batter with one egg, tiour and a little water, dip the slices into it and fry in butter or lard ; or dip in beaten egg, then in cracker-crumbs ; some parboil the egg plant in salted water after slicing, drain and finish as above ; or for Baked Egg Flaiity peel, boil till done, pour off water, mash fine, add butter and salt to taste, put in shallow pudding pan, over the top place a thick layer of cracker-crumbs and bake half an hour in moderate oven. For Egg Plant Cakes, i)eel and slice one or two medium-sized egg plants, put on in cold water, boil till tender, drain, mash fine, season with salt and ])ep])er, and add beaten egg and tablespoon Hour ; fry in little cakes in butter or butter and lard in equal parts. Parsnips jind Salsify or Oyster-plant may be cooked insameAvay, but Oyster- jilant is made in smaller cakes to imitate oysters. Boiled Hominy. — Soak quart ground hominy overnight, put over fire in tin pail, set in boiling water, with water enough, to cover, boil gently for five hours, as it can not be hurried. After grains begin to soften on no account stir it. The water put in at first ought to be enough to finish it, but if it proves too little, add more carefully, as too nmch makes it too soft. Salt just before taking from the stove, as too early salting makes it dark. If properly done, the grains will stand out snowy and well done, but round and separate. Stewed Horse Radish. — Melt a i)iece of butter the size of an egg, stir in a tablespoon of flour, add a cup and a half of vinegar, and a teaspoon each of salt and sugar, bring to a boil, and add a pint grated horse radish, and cook tea minutes, stirring constantly. Wilted Lettuce. — Place in a vegetable dish lettuce that has been very carefully picked and washed each leaf by itself, to remove all insects. Cut across dish four or five times and sprinkle with salt. Fry a small piece of fat ham until brown, cut in small pieces ; when very hot a5ary to secure a ripe crop. But to the dainty housi-keeper who must buy her nudon after a week or two of shipping, resliipi)ing, transporting and handling, until it has cost nearly its weight in gold, the best instructions are: Get your melon as fresh as possible ; let it remain on ice several hours or all night ; if it cuts crisp, and has ripe seeds and tastes well flavored, cut the ends otl' and set up on a dish ; divide both halves through the middle and serve in long slices or cut in rings, passing a waiter to receive the rinds ; or pare the melon entire, put on platter, and place before the host to serve in rings or slices. But if the meat of the melon appears wilted or withered, or is not perfectly ripe, pass it to the four-footed beasts, where it should have gone in the first place. Those who can atfbrd the more costlj' tropical fruit, such as bananas and pine-api)les, should slice them as thin as possible, place in the prettiest and shallowest glass fruit-stands, and cover well with sugar for some time before serving. Suggestions for the tasteful decoration of the table will be found under "The Dining Koom." Bill of Fare for January. 1. Breakfast — Waffles, br(^iled steak, fried apples. Dinner — Roast duck, apple sauce, u l)rown stew, mashed turnij)s, baked sweet-potatoes, celery ; prairie plum pudding with prairie sauce, fruit cake, oranges. Supper — Light biscuit, whipped cream with preserves, sliced beef. For more elaborate bill of fare see that for New Year's. 2. Breakfast. — Corn muthns, broiled fish, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Macaroni soup, salmi of duck, roasted potatoes, oyster salad, canned pease, celery sauce ; pum])kin pie. Supper — Toasted mufiins, shaved dried beef, tea, rusk, baked apples. 3. Breakfast — Cracked wheat, pig's feet souse, breakfast potatoes. Din- ner — Boiled bacon with cabljage, potatoes, turnips, carrots, luiion .•ie with cream. Supper — Cold biscuit, sliced tongue, buns, apples and Cov- entry tarts. 22. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled steak, potatoe croquettes. Dinner — Roast duck, potatoes, salsify, onion salad, cranberry jelly; bread pudding with sauce. Supper — Beefsteak toast, cold duck, currant jellj'. 23. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled fish, potato balls. Dinner — Oyster pie, mashed potatoes, baked beets, celery sauce ; chocolate pudding, oranges. Supper — Light biscuit, cold pressed meat, bread and milk. 24. Breakfast — Breakfast wheat, broiled spare ribs, tomato sauce. Din- ner — Boiled ham with cabbage, potatoes, parsnips, carrots, beets ; warm pie of dried fruit. Sapprr — Hot rolls, shaved ham, fried apples, cream crisps. 25. Sunday. Brenkfast — Jluffins, broiled tenderloin, vegetable hash. Dinner — Stewed Oysters, roast turkey with ))otatoes, turnips, Lima beans, apple sauce, celery ; mince pie, bavarian cream. Sup2)cr — Muffins, cold tur- key, canned fruit, tea cakes. 2(). Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, turkey croquettes, hominy. Dinner — Boiled corned beef with turnips, potatoes, carrots; horseradish gravy; sago pudding. Supper — Light biscuit, sliced corn beef, baked apples. 27. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled mutton, potatoes. Dinner — Es- caloped turkey, baked potatoes, split pease, onion salad ; Buckeye dumplings with sauce. Supper — Toasted gems, pates of cold turkey, tea rusk, jelly. 28. Breakfast — Gluten cakes, broiled beefsteak, ]>otatoes. Dinner — Chicken boiled with soup, whole potatoes boiled, plain boiled rice, cabbage salad ; apple pie, cake. Supper — Vienna rolls, cold chicken, canned fruit, cake. 29. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled sausage, fricassed potatoes. Din- ner — Roast beef, potatoes, chicken salad, cranberry sauce, celery ; plain boil- ed pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold beef, rice fritters with jelly. 30. 'Breakfast — Oatmeal porridge, panned oysters on toast, fried raw potatoes. Dinner— Baked fish, mashed potatoes, mayonnaise of salmon, salsify stewed, cranberry sauce; brown betty, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, fish balls, apple fritters with sugar. 31. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, pork steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Fillet of beef stuffed and baked, potatoes, cabbage salad, beets; apple tapioca, cake. Supjier — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold beef, rice blanc-mange. Bill of Fare for February. 1. Sunday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled sirloin steak, Saratoga po- tatoes. Dinner — Chicken pie with oysters, roast potatoes, salsify, dried Lima beans, lobster salad, currant jelly; orange pudding, fruit cake. Sup- per — Cold rolls, cold tongue, cake and jelly. 2. Breakfast — Corn pone, stewed tripe, potatoes a la Lyonnaise. Din- ner — Baked heart, whole boiled potatf)e3 and carrots, stewed tomatoes; canned fruit and cake. Su2)pcr — Toasted pone, cold heart sliced, i)lain bread, quince preserves with whipped cream. 3. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled sausage, breakfast hominy. jyinnei — Roast mutton, mashed potatoes, baked macaroni, celery, current jelly; chocolate blanc-mange, sponge cake. Supper — Cold mutton sliced, currant jellv, buttered toast, rusk, stewed apples. 4. Breakfast — Cerealine cakes, broiled bacon, fried potatoes. Dinner — Boil«d corned beef with horseradish gravy, whole boiled potatoes and tur- A year's bill of faee. 885 nips, slaw ; hot apple pie with whipped cream, oranges and cake . Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold corn beef sliced, grape jelly, hot buns. 5. Breakfast — Broiled fish, corn batter cakes, potatoe rissoles. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, tomatoes, canned beans, celery sauce ; molasses pudding, cake. Supper — Cold roast beef, beat biscuit, floating island, tea cakes. 6. Breakfast — Broiled oysters on toast, tomato sauce, flannel cakes with honey or maple syrup. Dinner — Baked or broiled fish if fresh, or friccased if canned, mashed potatoes, fried parsnips, cabbage salad, apple dumplings with sauce. Supper — Creamed codfish, corn mush hot with milk, canned fruit and light cakes. 7. Breakfast — Broilea mutton chops, fried mush, scrambled eggs. Din- ner — Beef soup, whole potatoes boiled, ham boiled, cabbage, parsnips, mixed pickles ; cottage pudding with sance, cake- Supper — Light biscuit, cold ham shaved, apple croutes, plain rice with sugar and cream. 8. Sunday. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, ham balls, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast duck, potatoes baked, turnips mashed, cranberry sauce, celery ; orange ice, oranges, iced cakes, Sujjper — Cold Sally Lunn, cold duck, dried apples. 9. Breakfast — Breakfast wheat, croquetts of cold meat or broiled bacon with potatoes. Dinner — Apple soup, baked potatoes, apple sauce, salmi of duck, pickled oysters, bread and apple pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, ham relish, canned fruit. 10. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled steak, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — Bouillon, baked chicken, potatoes, salsifj^, onion sauce, celery; hot peach pie with cream, chocolate cake, oranges. Supper — Rolls, cold chicken, apple fritters with sugar. 11. Breakfast — Graham gems, fried liver, potatoes. Dinner — Mutton soup, boiled mutton with caper sauce, potatoes, canned pease, mixed pickles ; boiled fruit pudding with hard sauce. Supper — Toasted gems, cold mutton sliced, short cake and jam. 12. Breakfast — Hot pntes of mutton with rich, brown gravy, plain bread> fried potatoes. Dinner — Chicken fricassee, boiled tongue dressed, potatoes, boiled onions, tomato sauce ; pumpkin pie. Supper — Bread biscuit, cold tongue shaved, charlotte cachee cake and floating island. 13. Breaefast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, potatoes. Dinner — Boiled turkey with oyster sauce, mashed potatoes and turnips, grape jelly, celery; roly poly of dried fruit with jelly sauce, sponge cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold turkey, currant jelly. 14. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled spare ribs, potato croquettes. Dinner — Escaloped turkey, cranberry sauce, boiled meat with cabbage, po- tatoes, carrots, pickled beets; apple meringue. Supper — Oatmeal porridge, toasted crackers, bologna sausage, fried apples, cakes. 15. Sunday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled oysters, potatoes. Dinner — Turkey soup, chicken pie with oysters, potatoes, Lima beans, slaw, celery; mince pie, cranberry tarts, oranges, cakes. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced dried beef, custard cake and jelly. 16. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled beef steak, fried potatoes, Diti- ner — Bean soup, roast beef currant jelly, potatoes, turnips ; pie. Supper — Plain bread, beef steak toast, rice fritters with sugar. 17. Breakfast — Corn cakes, hash, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast pork with sweet potatoes or parsnips, pudding of canned corn, pickled beets, apple custard pie, jelly cake. Supper — Sardines, sweet buns, preserved fruit with whipped cream. 18. Breakfast — Hot biscuit, broiled pork, fried potatoes. Dinner — Potato soup, mashed potatoes, salsify, beef steak pudding, celery; chocolate 886 A year's bill of fare. custard, golden cream cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, cold tongue, currant jellv; apple croutes. 19. Breakfast — Graham bread, creamed codfish, fried potatoes Din- ner — Baked stuffed heart, potatoes, tomatoes, celery; corn-stach blanc- mange. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold heart sliced, dried fruit Btewed, zepiiyr cake. 20. Breakfaat — Cream toast, fried oysters, plain bread. Dinner — Oyster pie, mashed potatoes, baked squash", tomato sauce, slaw ; hot peach pie with whipped cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, marmalade, bread and milk. 21. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled sausage, hominy. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, boiled potatoes, ham boiled, cabbage, carrots, celery sauce ; pumpkin pie. Supper — Plain bread, shaved ham, lemon fritters with sugar. 22. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, fried apples and dried corn fritters. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast of mutton, baked potatoes, Lima beans, tomatoes, salsify, cranberry jelly, celery, mayonnaise of salmon ; mince pie, ambrosia and fruit cake. Supper — High rollsj mutton, currant jelly, chocolate blanc-mange, Yule cake. 23. Breakfast — Beat biscuit, mutton warmed in butter, or broiled fish, croquettes of cold vegetables. Dinner — Beef a la mode, mashed potatoes and turnips, boiled rice, cottage pudding, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, dried beef, apple tapioca pudding. 24. Breakfast — Rice cake, pigs' feet souse, potato cakes. Dinner — Am- ber soup, chicken pie, stewed onions, turnips, pickled beets; boiled batter pudding with cream sauce. Su^yper — Buttered toast, baked apples and whip- ped cream, tea cakes. 25. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, boiled eggs. Dinner — Roast turkey, mashed potatoes, turnips, canned pease, cranberry sauce, celery ; poor man's i)udding, cranberry tarts. Supper — Light biscnit, cold turkey, tea rusk, caimed fruit. 2(:i. Breakfast — J^ally Lunn, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Boil- ed mutton with soup, mashed potatoes, canned corn, tomatoes, celery, apple sauce ; bread pudding with fruit, cocoanut cake. Supper — Cold mutton, toasted rusk, jelly. 27. Breakfast — Hot rolls, turkey hash and potatoes rissoles. Dinner — Turkey soup, baked or boiled fish, meat pie, mashed potatoes, plain rice, salsify ; prune pudding with whipped cream, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, fish balls, apple fritters with sugar. 28. Breakfast — Bread puffs, broiled spare ribs or bacon, creamed pota- toes. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, boiled shoulder of ham with cabbage, potatoes, parsnips, carrots, pickled beets ; lemon pie. Supper — Bread and milk hot, cold ham, jelly and cake. 29. Suiiildij. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, fried potatoes, omelet. Dinner — Stewed oysters, })aked chicken, mashed potatoes, cabbage saUid, celery, cheese raniakins ; charlotte russe, cranberry tarts, oranges, cakes and nuts. Supper — ^luthns, cold chicken, grape jelly, cocoa- nut cake and fruits. Bill of Fare for March. 1, Breakfast — Cream toast, chicken croquettes, boiled eggs. Dinner — Beefsteak pudding, stewed salsify, baked potatoes, lobster salad, celery ; one- two-three-four pudding, jelly cake, nuts, raisins. Supper — Light biscuit, codfish with cream, canned fruit and jelly roll. 2. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled mutton chops, fried potatoes. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast beef with potatoes, kidney beans saute, horseradish sauce ; cream pie, sponge cake. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced beef, jam. A year's bill of fare. 887 3. Breakfast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, escaloped eggs. Dinner — Boil- ed salt cod with mashed potatoes, canned pease, cabbage salad; baked cus- tard, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage sliced, broiled and buttered ; hot plain bread, toasted rusk, raspberry jam. 4. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled beefsteak, breakfast hominy. Dinner — Soup of beef bones and vegetables to taste, oyster pie, mashed potatoes, stewed celery, pickled beets ; steamed batter pudding with rich sauce, cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold sliced beef, baked apples hot, and tea cakes. o. Breakfast. — Yankee dried beef, poached eggs on buttered toast, plain bread. Dinner — Baked fish, lemon sauce, mashed potatoes, spinach, orange pudding with jelly sauce, cake. Supper — Plain bread, broiled scotch her- ring, crackers split, toasted and buttered, short cake with jelly. 6. Breakfast — Corn pone or griddle cakes, fried beefsteak, fried onions. Dinner — Beef a la mode, potatoes Kentuck)' style, carrots saute, cabbage slaw with cream dressing, mixed pickles, Italian cream and cake. Supper — Cold pone sliced and toasted, or plain bread toast, cold beef sliced, warm ginger-bread and farina blanc-mange. 7. Sunday. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled ham, tomato omelet. Din- ner — Stewed oysters, roast mutton, mashed potatoes, canned pease, currant jelly, celery; moonshine, oranges, nuts and cakes. Supper — Cold meat shaved, sponge cakes and preserved fruit. 8. Breakfast — Batter cakes, mutton warmed over, potatoes, escaloped eggs. Dinner — Boiled beef's tongue dressed with sauce piquante, stewed potatoes, boiled onions; half-hour pudding. Supper — Cold biscuit, shaved tongue, orange float. 9. Breakfast — Buttered toast, pork chops broiled, hominy grits. Din- ner — Tomato soup, pigeon pie, diced potatoes, canned corn or beans, pickles ; steamed pudding with sauce, almonds, raisins. Supper — Plain bread, sar- dines with lemon, light coffee cake or sweet buns and jam. 10. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, mutton chops broiled, potatoes. Dinner Beefsteak soup, broiled steak, potatoes boiled whole, salsify, oyster salad, sweet pickles, transparent pudding, cream puffs, oranges. Supper — Beat biscuit, cold meat, apple fritters with sugar, sponge cake. 11. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled fish, potatoes. Dinner — Corned beef boiled with turnips or parsnips, canned corn, boiled onions, horse-rad- ish sauce : cocoanut pie. Supper — Toasted graham bread, cold beef shaved, warm rusk and jelly. 12. Breakfast. Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, boiled eggs, or omelet souffle. Dinner — Baked or boiled flsh or steaks of halibut, mashed potatoes, stewed carrots, onion sauce ; eggless ice cream, apples and nuts. Supper — Pates of fish, oyster roll, toasted rusk and sweet omelet. 13. Breakfast — Bread puff's, ham puff's, potatoes. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, escaloped oysters, tomatoes, pickled beets; kiss pudding w^ith sauce, cake. Supper — French rolls ; cold tongue, bread fritters. 14. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans with pork and Boston brown b'-ead, omelet. Dinner — Roast turkey, potatoes, canned corn, plum jelly, youn<7 lettuce broken up {not cut) heaped lightly in a dish and ornamented with sliced eggs ; Charlotte russe, jelly and sponge cake. Supper — Cold turkey, cranberry jelly, canned fruit, jani and cake. 15. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, lactiola potatoes, fried onions. Dnner — Roast beef, potatoes boiled in jackets, onion sauce, steamed rice, mixed pickles ; birds-nest pudding. Supper — Light biscuit, broiled oysters, orange souffle, and plain cake. 16. Breakfast — Rice cakes, breakfast stew, baked eggs. Dinner — Meat Eie, mashed potatoes, macaroni wath cheese ; peach rolls. Supper — Plain read, dried beef, whipped cream with preserved fruit. 888 A year's bill or fare. 17. Breakfast— Hot rolls, broiled beef steak, castle potatoes. Dinner— Boiled leg of mutton with soup, stuffed potato, parsnips, sweet pickles ; bread puddinjz;, cake. Snjijirr — Cold rolls, sliaved mutton, boiled corn mush or hasty pudding witli milk. 18. Breakfast — Phdn bread, tried mush, broiled bacon, breakfast pota- toes. Dinner — Roast duck, baked potatoes, stewed tomatoes, currant, plum or grape jelly ; corn-starch pie. Supper — Buttered toast, cold duck, jelly and cream cakes. 19. Breakfast — (Iraham gems, broiled shad or mackerel with creain dressing (salt fish sliouM be gently steamed, never boiled), boiled eggs. Dinner — Salmi of duck, or duck pates hot with gravy, steamed potatoes, turnips, celery sauce; turret cream, jelly cake, nuts, raisins. Supper — Toasted gems, bologna sausage, tea hnns, stewed prunes or other dried fruit. 20. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled mutton chops, 1)aki'ud. Breakfast — Com nnitiins, fried ham and eggs. Dinner — Fresh fish, 'luchesse potatoes, salnu of duck, onion sauce, boiled rice, grape jelly; lemon dumplings, dried figs and nuts. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold pressed meat, cold rusk, stewed fruit. 27. Breakfast — Graliam l)read, croquettes of fish, omelet with parsley. Dinner — Boiled corn beef, potatoes, spinach or turnips, carrots, horseradish sauce ; rice snow balls with custard sauce, canned fruit and cake. Supper — Toasted graham bread, cold corned beef, oatmeal porridge with cream. 28. Easter Sunday. Breakfast — Broiled sirloin steak, French rolls young radishes, Saratoga potatoes, boiled eggs, wafHes and honey. Dinner — Chicken soup or green turtle with Italian paste, fresh fish boiled with drawn butter and sliced eggs, or lisii stuffed and baked serveread, escalope of cold ham with eggs, potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef, potatoes, turnips, cabbage salad ; cottage pudding w'ith sauce, cake. Supjier — Warm bread and milk, cold meat, preserved tarts. 3(). Breakfast --Corn cakes, roulades of cold roast beef, potatoes. Din- ner—Soup, roast of mutton, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce dressed; lemon pic Supper — Beat biscuits, cold mutton, preserved fruit, plain cake. A year's bill of fare, 889 31 . Breakfast — Flannel cakes, broiled ham, stuffed eggs. Dinner — Boiled tongue, mutton stew with potatoes, steamed rice ; lemon pudding, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, shaved tongue, rice fritters with sugar. Bill of Fare for April. 1. Breakfast — Long breakfast rolls, broiled porter-house steak, hominj^ croquettes. Dinner — Chicken souii, chicken dressed with egg sauce, whole potatoes, spinach, young lettuce and onions, sweet pickles ; orange float, caramel, cake. Supper — Cold chicken and currant jelly, cold rolls, snow custard, cake. 2. Breakfast — Fried frogs, fried potatoes, corn gems, scrambled eggs. Dinner — Beefsteak soup, beefsteak pudding, steamed potatoes, mashed tur- nips, slaw; almond custard, jell}\ Supper — Plain bread, pates of cold chicken, hot short-cake and jam. 3. Breakfast — Graham bread, veal cutlets, fricassed potatoes. Dinner — Boiled ham with potatoes, canned-corn pudding, parsnips fried, mixed pickles ; hot pie of canned peaches, cake. Supper — Graham toast, cold sliced ham, hot rusk, stewed fruit. 4. Sunday. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled mutton chops, j^oung rad- ishes, puff omelet. Dinner — Beef soup, chicken pie, scalloped potatoes, young lettuce and onions ; banana pie, mixed cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold rusk, jelly, 5. Breakfast — Light rolls, codfish mountain, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef, turnips, potatoes, tomato sauce, pickled oysters, caramel cus- tard, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, cold beef sliced, maple biscuit and jam. 6. Breakfast — Muffins, fried liver, fried potatees. Dinner — Mutton soup, mutton garnished with eggs, pickles, creamed potatoes, canned tomatoes ; bread pudding with sauce, oranges and cafce. Supper — Toasted muffins, sliced mutton, sponge cake and jelly. 7. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, minced mutton or broiled chops, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — Baked pig, mashed potatoes, parsnips fried, lettuce ; lemon pudding, jelly cake. Supper — Yankee dried beef, soda biscuit and honey, floating island. 8. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veai cutlets, potato cakes. Dinner — Baked stuffed heart, potatoes a la pancake, turnips, canned corn, pickled eggs ; cup custard, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold sliced heart, bread fritters with sugar. 9. Breakfast — French rolls, broiled flsh if salt, fried if fresh, fried raw potatoes, tomato sauce. Dinner — Baked or broiled fresh fish, mashed pota- toes, cann ed pease or beans, lettuce, onions ; Estelle pudding, jelly tarts. Supper — Cold rolls, bologna sausage sliced, steamed crackers, cake and pre- served fruit. 10. Breakfast — Batter cakes, broiled chops, scrambled eggs, potato ris- soles. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, broiled beefsteak, spinach, potato puffs, pickled beets ; half-hour pudding with sauce, oranges and cake. Supper — Toasted bread, cold tongue sliced, hot buns and marmalade. 1 1 . Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, ome- lette with parsley. Dinner — Vermicelli soup, baked shad or croquettes of canned lobster, broiled squabs or pigeon pie, potatoes mashed, turnips, asparagus, spring cresses, dressed lettuce, grape jelly; custard pie, cake, Supper — Plain bread, canned salmon, cold buns, jelly, cream sandwiches. 12. Breakfast — Corn dodgers, fish croquettes, potato balls, boiled eggs. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, canned tomatoes, pickles ; Florentine pudding. Supoer — Light rolls, cold beef, tea cake. 13. Breakfast — Graham gems, fried sweet-breads, oatmeal with cream. Dinner — Mutton soup, boiled mutton with caper sauce, whole potatoes, plain 890 A year's bill of fake. boiled rice, lettuce ; orange short cake. Supper — Toasted gems, cold mut- ton, jelly and cake. 14. Breakfast — ^Vienna rolls, fried pickled tripe, rice croquettes, spring radishes. Dinner — Chicken pot-pie, canned Lima beans, stewed tomatoes, asparagus ; Spanish cream. Supper — Cold rolls, chicken salad, chocolate tarts. 15. Breakfast — Batter cakes, veal cutlets, ringed potatoes. Dinner — Ragout of beef, boiled potatoes in jackets, canned succotash, wilted lettuce; chocolate custard, oranges, cake. Supper — Bread, sliced beef, oat porridge. 16. Breakfast — Wafiies, broiled mutton, fricassed potatoes. Dinner — Lobster soup, baked fish stuffed, baked macaroni, potatoes mashed, am- bushed asparagus ; molasses pudding. Supper — Graham gems, sardines with lemon, toast. 17. Breakfast — Corn griddle cakes, fish balls, scrambled eggs. Dinner — Boiled ham with vegetables, chili sauce ; plain boiled pudding with sauce. Supper — Toasted crackers, cold sliced ham, warm ginger bread. 18. Sunday. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, broiled steak. Dinner — Macaroni soup, baked chickens, mashed potatoes, lettuce salad ; queen of puddings. Supper — Light biscuit, cold chicken, trifle. 19. Breakfast — Graham gems, chicken croquettes, potatoes, radishes, warmed over mashed potatoes, stewed parsnips. Dinner — Boiled corn beef, potatoes, turnips, carrots ; canned peaches and cream, jelly cake. Supper — Toasted gems, cold corned beef shaved, cream fritters. 20. Breakfast — Rolls, stewed kidneys, Chili sauce, fricassed potatoes, fried parsiii{)S. Dinner — Split pea soup, meat pie, tomato sauce, mashed potatoes, lobster croquettes, spring cresses ; cottage pudding, tapioca jelly, oranges. Supper— Cold rolls, bologna sausage, tea rusk and stewed fruit. 21. Breakfast — Muffins, breaded veal cutlets, curried eggs, potato cakes. Dinner — Roast beef, canned succotash, plain boiled rice with tomatoes, dressed lettuce ; peach rolls with sauce. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold beef sliced, hot bread and milk. 22. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled ham, boiled eggs. Dinner — Mutton soup, mutton garnished with beets and cresses, stewed parsnips pudding of canned corn, asparagus on toast, onions, cheese crusts; orange float, jelly cake. Supper — Soda biscuit, cold mutton, currant jelly, fruit charlotte. 23. Breakfast — Corn cakes, pates of cold mutton hot with gravy, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Fricassee of canned lialil)ut or fresh fish baked, mashed potatoes, turnips sliced; bread pudding, oranges, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold beef, steamed crackers. 24. Breakfast — Graham bread, croquettes of fish, potato rissoles. Din- ner — Ham boiled, potatoes, turnips, onion salad ; rhubarb pie, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold liam. cream cakes. 25. Sunday. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, broiled beefsteak, omelet. Dinner — Barley soup, baked lamb with mint sauce, stewed parsnips, potatoes, asparagus with eggs, pates of sweet-breads, lettuce mayonnaise; perfection cream pudding, strawberries. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced lamb, cake, jelly. 26. Jhrakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, lamb croquettes hot with gravj'. Din)ier — Brown stew, baked potatoes, cresses, Lima beans, stewed ])arsnips, onion salad ; rice snow-balls with custard sauce, plain cake. Sup- per — 15uttered crackers toasted, cold ]n-essed meat lemon fritters with sugar. 27. Breakfast — Hot biscuit with honey, mutton chops broiled, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Economical soup; tapioca pudding. Supper — Cold bis- cuit, sliced cold beef, canned fruit with cream and cake. 28. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled ham, scrambled eggs, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onion salad ; cream pie. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold beef sliced, tea buns, fruit. A year's bill of fare. 891 29. Breakfast — Vienna rolls, fried fish, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast loin of veal with potatoes, lettuce, fried asparagus ; orange pudding, cake. Supper — Cold roll, sliced veal, sweet wafers. 30. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried liver, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — Chicken pot-pie, spinach ; Estelle pudding witli sauce. Supper — Plain bread, cold pressed meat or bologna ; cream cakes warm. Bill of Fare for May. 1. Breakfast — Buttered toast, served with fricasse of cold boiled or can- ned fish, boiled eggs. Dinner — Bacon boiled with spring greens, potatoes, beets, parsnips; plain boiled rice with cream sauce, jelly cake. Supper — Steamed crackers, sliced beef, rice fritters with sugar. 2. Sunday. Breakfast. — Batter cakes, veal cutlets, fried potatoes. Din- ner. — Cold bacon garnished with boiled eggs and beet slices, roast chicken, mashed potatoes, asparagus on toast, dressed lettuce and young onions ; strawberry charlotte, mixed cake. Supper — Cold rolls, cold chicken, jam. 3. Breakfast — Light bread, potato cakes, broiled beefsteak. Dinner — Eoast of mutton with potatoes, canned tomatoes, rhubarb sauce, baked cus- tards, fruit cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, sliced mutton, currant jelly, sweet buns. 4. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried pickled tripe, breakfast potatoes. Din- ner — Boiled beef with soup, whole potatoes, asparagus with eggs ; cocoanut pudding, jelly. Supper — Plain bread, cold beef, toasted buns with strawberry jam or canned fruit. 5. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled ham, omelet. Dinner — Boiled tongue Avith Chili sauce, fricasseed potatoes, cresses, boiled asparagus; ice cream, sponge cake. Supper — Tea biscuit, shaved tongue, sago jelly, lady cake. 6. Breakfast — Graham bread, fried mutton chops, fried raw potatoes. Dinner. — Roast of veal with potatoes, stewed onions, pickled beets; cake orange float. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, sliced veal, tea rusks, lemon jelly. 7. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled beefsteak, poached eggs, fried grated potatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish (if large, or fried small fish), boiled potatoes in jackets, curried eggs, lettuce salad, custard pie. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold rusk with strawberries or marmalade. 8. Breakfast — Bread puffs with maple syrup, fricasseed potatoes, cro- quettes of fish. Dinner — Boiled leg of mutton, ambushed asparagus, boileil macaroni, potato a la pancake ; bread pudding. Supper — Cold rolls, cold mutton sliced, plain boiled rice with cream and sugar. 9. Sunday Breakfast — Rice wafiles, mutton croquettes, fried raw po- tatoes, buttered eggs. Dinner — Roast beef, clam pie, new potatoes, tomatoes, dressed lettuce, young beets, Saratoga shortcake, snow custard, coffee and macaroons. Supper — Light rolls, cold beef, cake and jelly, or strawberries. 10. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, warmed potatoes. Dinner — Roast of beef with potatoes, asparagus, cake, oranges. Supper — Plain bread, chipped beef, short cake, marmalade. 11. Breakfast — Cracked wheat with cream, broiled beefsteak, plain bread, cottage cheese. Dinner — Asparagus soup, meat pie, new potatoes, pickled beets; rhubarb pie, jelly cake. Supper — Tea biscuit, Yankee dried beef, sponge cake and fruit. 12. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, cream codfish, fried raw potatoes, scrambled eggs Dinner — Pieplant soup, pigeon pie, grape jelly, new potatoes, tomato salad ; delicious lemon pudding, caVe. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold pressed meat, devilled eggs, vanities with jelly. 892 A year's bill of fare. 13. Breakfast — "Warm biscuit with maple syrup, veal cutlets, Saratoga potatoes. Dinner — Beef a la mode, whole potatoes, turnips, beets, lettuce; rice pudding with cream sauce, oranges. Supj)er — Cold rolls, sliced beef, tea cakes, blanc-mange. 14. Brealfast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, tomato sauce, broiled pota- toes. Diiiner-^Vrei^h fish, or canned halibut, cod or salmon, Swedish po- tatoes, turnips, spinach with eggs ; cream pie, silver cake. Supper — Toasted mufiins, omelet witli asparagus, bread an. Breakfast — IMuflins, codfish, boiled eggs. Dinner — Yeal stew, pota- •toes mashed or baked, spinach, rhubarb sauce; plain batter pudding with sauce, cake and fruit. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold veal, bachelor's but- tons. 20. Breakfast — FrtMich rolls, warmed over veal stew, tomato sauce. Dinner — Boiled liam with potatoes, asparagus, pease, tomato salad; rhubarb }>ie. Supper — Cold mils, sliced ham, pun cakes with jelly. 21 . Breakfast — Corn meal gems, ham balls, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, whole boiled potatoes, French eggs, lettuce and cress salad ; green currant pie. jelly cake. Stipppr — Toasted gems, canned salmon, asparagus on toast, oatnjeal "pudding with cream and sugar. 22. Breakfast — Buttered toast, larded sweet-breads, fried potatoes. Dtn- ^jgr — Larded liver, baked potatoes, turnips, lettuce ; potato pie, light cake. Supper — Light biscuit, beefeteak toast, marinated potatoes. 2:). Snndai/. Breakfast — Corn dodgers, stewed kidneys, omelet. Din- „(.;. — Strawi)erry soup, baked chicken, new potatoes, diced turnips, baked rhubarb, green'pease, lettuce ; Charlotte russe, pine-apple ambrosia, cake. Supper — Col(l biscuit, sliced chicken, preserved fruit and cake. 24. Breakfast — (iraham gems, chicken crocpiettes, fried potatoes. Din- „,., — Roast beef, boiled onions, lettuce, mashed potatoes ; jellj' with whipped cream. Sii})per — Toasted gems, cold beef, rusk and jelly. 25. Breakfast — "Warm biscuit, broiled ])acon, boiled eggs. Dinner — Boil- ed mutton with soup, whole potatoes, onions, green pease, lettuce, sweet pickles; cherry pie, cream puffs. Supper — Cold rolls, cold sliced mutton, toasted rusk w'ith fruit. 2(). Breakfast — Corn muffins, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Boiled bacon with greens and potatoes, asparagus rolls, railislies. lettuce salad ; bread puilding, oranged strawberries. Suppri — Toasted muffins, cold tongue, raisin tarts. 27. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled ham, omelet with parsley. Din- ner— ('hicken pie, fricassed potatoes, asparagus, pease, lettuce; poor man's pudding. Supper — Hot biscuit, cottage cheese, stewed fruit and cake. 28. Breakfast — "Waffles, broiled mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner— YreBh fish boiled, baked or fried new potatoes, tomatoes, beets, lettuce; cottage pudding with sauce, cake. Supper— Oi\tmi.'A\ and cream, stewed cherries. A year's bill of fare. 893 29. Breakfast — Bread puflfs with maple syrup, canned salmon on toast, tomato sauce. Dinner — Ham boiled with greens, young turnips ; rhubarb pie, tapioca jellj^ Supper — Plain bread, shaved ham, hot buns and fruit. 30. Sunday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled beefsteak, tomato omelet. Dinner— Roant lamb with mintsauce, clam stew, new potatoes, young turnips, green pease, asparagus salad ; ice cream and strawberries, centennial drops, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, shaved ham, toasted buns and jelly. 31. Breakfast — Cream toast, croquettes of cold meat, fried potatoes. Dinner — Meat pie, whole potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; steamed Indian pud- ding with sauce, soft ginger-bread. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold lamb, cake and fruit. Bill of Fare for June. 1 Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, mutton chops. Dinner — Roast beef, whole potatoes, ambushed asparagus, tomato salad ; strawbei'ries and cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold beef sliced, baked pie-plant, cake. 2. Breakfast — French rolls, croquettes of beef, radishes. Dinner — Beef boiled with soup, (beef served with drawn butter,) new potatoes, spinach with egg dressing, boiled onions, green currant pie, sponge cake. Supper — Plain bread, sliced cold beef, sweet pickles. 3. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled ham, tomato omelet. Dinner — Steam- ed chicken, green pease, mashed potatoes, dressed lettuce; strawberries served with sugar and cream. Supper — Warm biscuit, chipped dried beef, young onions, lemon jelly. 4. Breakfast — Graham bread, fried fish, diichesse potatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fresh fish or lobster fricassee, new potatoes, asparagus on toast; baked custard, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, frizzled ham, raspberry short-cake with cream. 5. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled mutton or lamb chops, potatoes, stewed tomatoes. i)/n??e?'--Broiled beefsteak, whole boiled potatoes, beets, greens, onion salad ; berries and cake. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold pressed meat, tapioca cream. 6. Sunday. Breakfast — Twist rolls, fried chickei^ potatoes, omelet. Dinner — Clam soup, baked lamb with potatoes, green pease, sliced tomatoes, asparagus, lettuce salad ; strawlierry short-cake with whipped cream. Suj)- per — Cold biscuit, sliced lamb, fruit and light cake. 7. Breakfast — Oranges, corn batter cakes, broiled liver, scrambled eggs. Dinner — Roast beef, mashed potatoes, beets, cress salad; plain boiled rice with cream. Supper — Plain bread, bologna sausage, rusk with berries. 8. Breakfast — Rice cakes, lamb chops, boiled eggs. Dinner — Boiled beef's tongue (fresh) served with Chi i sauce, baked potatoes, young beets, lettuce dressed ; raspberry cream, cake. Supper — Sliced beef's tongue, toast- ed rusk, berries. 9. Breakfast — Muffins, beefsteak, potato balls. Dinner — Soup of stock boiled yesterday with tongue, chicken pie, mashed potatoes and turnips, spinach, lettuce ; cream fritters with sauce. Supper — Toasted muffins, cream codfish, fruit. 10. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veal cutlets, radishes. Dinner — Ragout of lamb, mashed potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; lemon pudding, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold sliced lamb, sliced tomatoes. 11. Breakfast — Vienna rolls, breakfast stew, potatoes or tomatoes. Din- ner — Fresh fish fried or baked, molded potatoes, asparagus, beet salad ; rice pudding with sauce and cake, oranges. Supper — Cold rolls, dried beef chip- ped, custard cake with fruit or berries. 894 A year's bill of fare. 12. Breakfast — Graham gems, croquettes of fish or breaded veal cutlets, escaloped eggs. Dinner — Ham boiled with greens, potatoes, beets, young onions ; economical pudding, Italian rolls. Supper — Toasted gems, cold ham, oatmeal with cream, cake and jelly. 13. Sunday. Breakfast — Light rolLs, broiled beefsteak, sliced tomatoes, omelets. Dinner — Raspberry soup, baked chicken, mashed potatoes, green pease, pickled beets ; strawberry bavarian cream. Supper — Cold rolls, cold chicken, tipper— Light biscuits, Yankee dried beef, strawberries. -0. Sunday. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled beefsteak, boiled eggs, stewed tomatoes. Dinner — Fruit soup, lamb cutlets broiled and served with green pease, sunmier squash, young onions, pickled beets; oranged straw- berries, cakes. Supper — Cold biscuits, canned salmon, fruit. 21. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried clams, potatoes or hominy croquettes. Dinner — Pea soup, roast beef with potatoes, string beans, young onions; raspberry blanc-mange, oranges or bananas and cake. Supper — Hot tea buns, cold beef sliced, cherries, lemon cakes. 22. Breakfast — Waffles, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — ^leat pie, green pease, potatoes, lettuce; raspberry float. Supper — Cold buns, chipped dried beef, raspberry cream, cakes. 23. Breakfast — French rolls, broiled liver, tomatoes. Dinner — Stewed lamb witii mint sauce, potatoes, squash, beets; strawberry short-cake with whijjped cream. Supper — Cold sliced lamb, sweet muthus with stewed cherries. 24. Breakfast — Graham bread, beefsteak smothered with onions, toma- toes. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, string beans ; cherry dump- ings with sauce, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold beef' currants. 25. Breakfast — Corn pone, broiled ham, omelet, hominj- fritters. Din- ner — Boiled salmon or some other varietv of fresh fish either fried, baked or fricasseed; mashed potatoes, Lima beans, squash, cucumbers; oranges. Supper — Cold pone sliced and toasted in the oven, cold tongue, sponge cake with fruit. 2ii. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, larded veal cutlets, scalloped eggs. Dinner — Boiled ham with greens, potatoes, beet greens; raspberries and cream, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, sliced ham, floating island. 27. Sunday. 3reakfa 9. Breakfast — Corn muffins, breakfast stew of mutton, tomatoes. Din- ner — Veal pot pie, Lima beans, baked egg plant ; peach meringue, lady cake. Supper — Pressed chicken, warm biscuit, baked sweet apples. 10. Breakfast — Batter cakes, veal croquettes, cottage cheese. Dinner — Boiled or baked fish with potatoes, green corn, tomatoes, slaw ; peaches and cream, cake. Supper — Cold tongue, bread and iced milk. 11. Breakfast — Shortcake, mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — Economi- cal soup, pickled beets ; apple meringue, cake. Supper — Soused beef, warm rolls, grapes. 12. Sunday, breakfast — Rolls, breakfast stew, stewed okra. Dinner — Broiled prairie chicken, sweet potatoes, green corn, boiled cauliflower, plum 900 A year's bill of farb. ■auce, cabbage salad; tutti frutti, cake. Supper — Sliced veal, biscuit, balked pears. 13. Breakfast — Cream toa.st, prairie chicken stew, fried potatoes. Din- ner — Roast loin of veal, potatoes, baked tomatoes, onions, cabbage; apple snow, cake. Supper — Sliced halibut, dry toast, jrrapes. Breakfast — Light biscuit, broiled bacon, tomatoes. Dinner — Chicken pie, potatoes, Lima beans, stewed onions, slaw; mixed cake, custard. Supper — Sliced veal, biscuit, baked pears. 15. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled steak, tomatoes. Dinner — Boiled bacon -with potatoes and beans, green corn pudding, raw tomatoes, baked egg plant ; apple pie, cake. Supper — Raw oysters and sliced lemon, biscuit and cake. 16. Breakfast — Hot muffins, fried chicken, fried cabbage. Dinner — Ragout of beef, potatoes, carrots, corn; compote of pears. Supper — Cold sliced beef, sliced tomatoes, egg rolls. 17. Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, broiled ham. Dinner — DcAilled crabs, potatoes, stewed corn, onions ; apple meringue pie. Supper — Sardines, toast, baked peaches. 18. Breakfast — Plain bread, green corn fritters, mutton chops. Dinner — Chicken fricassee, mashed potatoes, pickled beets ; peach cake with whipped cream. Supper — Sliced veal loaf, warm light biscuit, fried bananas. 19. Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, fried oysters, baked potatoes, Dinner — Baked chickens, sweet potatoes, succotash, baked tomatoes ; frozen custard, mixed cakes, watermelon. Supper — Sliced chicken, biscuit, apple sauce. 20. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, corn bread, broiled steak, fried sweet potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, cufn, escaloped cauliflower ; ■watermelon, cake. Supper — Cold sliced beef, biscuit, floating island. 21. Breakfast — Hash, fried cabbage, sliced cucumbers. Dinner — Meat pie, young turnips, Lima beans ; bread and apple pudding with cream sauce, cake. Supper — Sliced dried beef, baked pears, biscuits. 22. Breakfastllot muffins, fricasseed sweetbread, fried apples, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, corn; })(.'aches with cream, cake. Supper — Sliced beef, biscuit, sliced tomatoes with cream. 23. Breakfast — Plain bread, corn oysters, fried potatoes, mutton chops. Dinner — Chicken pudding, baked sweet potatoes, corn, stufi'ed tomatoes ; ap- ple fritters with sauce, cake. Supper — Cold tongue, biscuit, ambushed trifle. 24. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled eggs, tomatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, potatoes boiled in jackets, escaloped cauliflower, slaw ; baked custard, cake. Supper — Mock strawberries, chipped dried" beef, pop overs. 25. Breakfast — Bread pufls, codfish, fried potatoes. Dinner — Broiled steak, mashed potatoes, creamed cablnige ; steamed pudding with sauce, cake. Supper — Beefsteak toast, rice with milk, fruit. 26. Su7iday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, waffles, broiled chicken, toma- toes. Dinner — Veal pot pie. sweet-potatoes, corn, baked onions; peach pyr- amid, ice cream. Supper — Toasted l)read, canned salmon, baked pears. 27. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, warmed-over pi.t pie, fried carrots. Din- ner — Roast leg of mutton with potatnes, succotasli ; queen of puddings, cake. Sui)per — Sliced mutton, warm biscuit, baked apples. 28. Breakfast — Hot nmlHns, broiled beefsteak, fried raw potatoes. Din- ner — Meat pie, onions, chocolate souffle, cake. Supper — Yankee dried beef, slice^, tomatoes, pickles; apple fritters with sauce, grape tarts, cake. Supper — Cold tongue, currant or plum jelly, baked quinces. 7. Breakfist — Corn muffins, fried liver, fried sweet-potatoes. Dinner — Chicken fricassee, baked potatoes, turnips, beets; rice apples, cake fruit. Supper — Chicken pates, peaches with cream, bread. 8. Breakfast — WafHes, veal cutlets, potato croquettes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, corn, stewed tomatoes; rice pudding, cocoa- nut cake, fruit. Supper — Canned corned beef sliced, buns, fried apples with sugar. 9. Breakfast—Bread puffs, croquettes of fish with potatoes, tomatoes. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, broiled beefsteak, boiled cauliflower, potatoes boiled in jackets, pickles ; plain boiled pudding with sauce, cake, ffuit. Sup- per — Beefsteak toast, bread, stewed pears. 10. Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans with Boston brown bread, baked apples with cream. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast wild duck, grape jelly, cel- ery, mashed potatoes and turnips, slaw; lemon ice, compote of pears, cake. Supper — Sliced duck, bread and milk. 11. Breakfast — Graham gems, broiled mutton chop, croquettes of cold vegetables. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, carrots, plain boiled rice ; baked custard, cake, grapes. Supper — Cold beef sliced, bread, rice fritters with sugar. 12. Breakfast — Hash, fried okra, biscuit. Dinner — Boiled mutton with soup, celery, slaw; sliced pine-apple, cake. Supper — Sdced mutton, cot- tage cheese, bread, cake, grape jam. 13. Breakfast — Corn batter cakes, croquettes of mutton and vegetables. Dinner — Beef a la mode, mashed potatoes and turnips, succotash; apples grapes, cake. Supper — Meat salad, bread, cake, baked pears. 14. Breakfast — Buttered toist, croquettes of cold beef and vegetables, Dinner — Fried or smothered chickens, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, iDickles : Third's nest pudding, cake. Supper — Canned corned beef sliced, rolls, fruit 902 A year's bill of far*. 15. Breakfast — Broiled mutton chops, fried potato cakes, muffins. Din- ner — Baked or boiled fish, boiled whole potatoes, corn, delicate cabbage, cheese fondu ; peach meringue, cake. Supper — Bologna Sausage, toasted muffins, honey. 16. Breakfast — Plain bread, veal cutlets, breakfast wheat. Dinner — Boiled beef with vegetables ; cocoanut pudding, cake. Supper — Soused beef, light biscuit, fried apples. 17. Sunday. Breakfast — Vegetable hash, fried oysters, stewed tomatoes. Dinner — Broiled pheasant, sweet-potatoes, tomatoes, onion sauce ; i)each me- ringue pie, plum jelly, cake, fruit. Supper — Cold beef sliced, rusk, baked apples. 18. Breakfast — Biscuit, veal cutlets breaded, potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, tomatoes ; plain boiled rice, cake. Supper — Veal loaf, baked apples, rice waffles with stigar. 19. Breakfast — Oyster croquettes, fried cabbage, fried potatoes. Diri- ner — Boiled mutton with soup, potatoes, squash ; apple tapioca pudding, cake. Supper — Sliced mutton, light buns, fried apples. 20. Breakfast — Pates of cold mutton, fried potatoes, plain bread. Din- ner — Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, carrots; plain batter pudding with sauce, cake, fruit. Supper — Sliced beef, grape jam, popovers. 21. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled bacon, fricassed potatoes. Dinner — Meat pie, boiled onions, stewed tomatoes, beets ; apple dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Cold pressed meat, cake, stewed grapes. 22. Breakfast — Plain bread, fried fish, corn dodgers, tomatoes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, whole boiled potatoes, tomatoes, creamed cabbage ; mo- lasses pudding, cake. Supper — Dried beef frizzled, buns, baked apples. 23. Breakfast — Graham bread, mutton chops, fried potatoes. Dinner — Broiled steak, Heidelberg cabbage, turnips, pickles ; cocoanut pudding, choc- olate cake, grapes. Supper — Beefsteak toast, mush and milk, light biscuit, baked pears. 24. Sunday. Breakfast — Fried oysters, fried mush, poached eggs. Din- ner — Roast wild duck, grape or plum jelly, mashed potatoes, tomati.ies, Lima beans ; sliced peaches, ice cream, cake, grapes. Supper — Sliced duck, sliced tomatoes, sponge cake, jelly. 25. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled ham, tomatoes or potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, plain rice boiled; sago pudding, cake. Supper — Cold sliced beef, bread, butter, apple sauce. 26. Breakfast — Rice cakes, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Meat p\e, Lima beans, stuffed cabbage salad ; molasses pudding, cake. Supper — Sardines, dry toast, baked api^les. 27. Breakfast — Mutton hash, Sally Lunn, fried onions. Dinner — Bread- ed cliieken, glazed sweet-potatoes, tomatoes ; baked quinces, cake. Supper — Cold pressed meat, mils, fried apples. 28. Breakfast — Hot rolls, veal cutlets, fried sweet-potatoes. Diniier — Ragout of beef, x^otatnes, turnips, tomatoes baked ; Italian cream, cake, fruit. Supjyer — Dried beef chipi:)ed, preserves with cream. 29. Breakfast — Corn cakes, broiled bacon, omelette. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, wliole potatoes, creamed cabbage, tomatoes, beets ; boiled Indian l)udiling with sauce, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage, hot toasted rusk, tpiince jelly. 80. Breakfast — Fruit, rolls, broiled mutton chop, potato croquettes. Dinner — Broiled steak, Saturday bean soup, potatoes, turnijis and carrots, j.ickles ; warm apple pie, fruit cake. Supper — Hot biscuit, cold tongue, fried apples, tea cakes. 31. Sunday. Breakfast — I'.aked beans, Boston brown bread, leaked a])- ples. Dinner— Stew C'd oysters, roast veal with sweet potatoes, api>4e sauce, A year's bill of fare. 908 tomatoes, cabbage salad; cold apple pie, preserve sandwiches, jelly cake, grapes and apples. Supper — Toasted muffins, sliced veal, bananas. Bill of Fare for November. 1. Breakfast — Biscuit, croquettes of veal, breakfast hominy. Dinner — Veal stew, turnips, beets ; baked apples with cream, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, bread and milk, fried apples. 2. Breakfast — Graham gems, fried liver, fried cabbage, raw potatoes fried. Dinner — Baked chicken with potatoes and parsnips, mashed turnips, celery ; apple dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold sliced (•hic'ken, lemon soufHe. J. Breakfast — Cracked wheat, chicken croquettes, plain bread. Din- ner — Boiled leg of mutton with soup, macaroni with cheese, boiled cauli- tiower, whole boiled potatoes, slaw ; caramel custard, jelly cake. Supper — Biscuit, dried beef frizzled, hot short cake, jam. 4. Breakfast — Corn muftins, broiled liver, hominy. Dinner — Veal pot pie, escaloped oysters, celery, slaw; tapioca cream, cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, sliced tongue, rusk, stewed pears. ."). Breakfast — Buttered toast, poached eggs, warmed over pot pie. Din- ner — Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, tomato sauce, beets ; custard pie, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold pressed meat, bread and milk. 6. Breakfast — Bread i)ufrs, croquettes of fish, potatoes. Dinner — Larded liver, mashed potatoes, delicate cabbage ; rice pudding, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, apple fritters with sugar, tea cakes. 7. Sunday Breakfast — Cream toast, fried chickens, escaloped eggs. Dinner — Koast wild goose with apjile sauce, celery, turnips, sweet-potatoes; jiumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Tea rolls, cold sliced goose, gelatine blanc- mange. 8. Breakfast — Corn cake, broiled mutton chops, hominy. Dinner. — Roast beef with potatoes, turnips, cabbage salad ; lemon pie, farina pudding, cake. Supper — Cold roast beef, bread fritters, honey. 9. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — Stew- ed beef, boiled onions, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, jelly ; rice apples, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn. sliced cold beef, fried apples, rusk. 10. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried pork steak, potato cake, tomatoes. Dinner — Boiled chicken with soup, plain rice, whole potatoes, slaw; apple dumplings, cake. Supper — Cold chicken, rice fritters, tea cakes. 11. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled steak, fried potatoes. Dinner — Toad-in- the-hole, whole potatoes, turnips, onion sauce; cream pie, cake. Supper^ Cold rolls, canned salmon, black caps. 12. Breakfast — Fried mush, oyster fritters, plain bread. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, canned pease, tomatoes, grape jelly ; cottage pudding with sauce. Supper — Eolls, cold mutton sliced, rice fritters, jelly and cake. 13. Breakfast — Hot rolls, croquettes of fish, potato cakes. Dinner — Eco- nomical soup ; Esielle puddiag, cake. Supper — Cold roils, soused beef, stewed fruit, tea cakes. 14. Sunday. Breakfast — Oyster omelet, vegetable hash, baked apples, potatoes. Dinner — Stewed oysters, roast wild duck, mashed potatoes, boiled onions, celery; Charlotte russe, fruit cake. Supper — Cold duck sliced, light biscuit, grapes, sponge cake, currant jelly. 15. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled pork, potato cakes. Dinner — Veal roast, sweet-potatoes, boiled turnips, chicken salad; economical pudding. Supper — Oatmeal mush, cold sliced veal, cranberry tarts, cake. 904 A year's bill or fare. 16. Breakfast — Graham l)read, croquettes of duck, potatoes. Dinner — Spiced beef tongue, baked potatoes, macaroni •nith cheese; grapes, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongde, baked pears. 17. BreahfaM — Batter cakes, broiled mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — Oyster pie, baked sweet -potatoes, diced turnips, celery; app'e pie with whipped cream. Supper — Cold rolls, chipped beef, custard cake, marma- lade. 18. Breakfast — Waffles, hash, fried sweet -potatoes. Dinner — Brown stew, baked potatoes, plain rice, slaw; pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Cold sliced beef, short cake, jam. 19. Bre'ikfnst — Corn batter cakes, broiled sausage, hominy. Dinner — Turbot, mashed potatoes, turnips, Heidelbreg cabbage; prune whip, cake. Supper — Liirht biscuit, bologna sausage, baked quinces. 20. Breakfast — Graham gems, veal cutlets, potatoes. Dinner — Chicken pot pie ; warm apple pie, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, dried beef, baked apples. 21. Snndajf. Brealfast — Cream toast, broiled oysters with pork, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Stewed oysters, roast goose, mashed potatoes, boiled onions, cranberry sauce, celery ; peach pie, jelly cake. Supper — Cold bis- cuit, sliced goose, grapes, cakes. 22. Breakfast — Granula mush, broiled steak, potatoes, plain bread. Din- iier — Roast goo e warmed over, baked potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; grape pie, cake. Supper — Buttered toast, cold sliced goose, fried apples, rusk. 23. Breakfast — Corn gems, fried liver, breakfast potatoes. Dinner — Roast pork with SAveet-potatoes or parsnips, tomatoes, beets, apple sauce ; bread and fruit pudding, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, dried beef, canned fruit. 24. Breakfast — Pati.,s of pork, fried sweet-potatoes, plain bread. Din- ner — Beef a la mode, steamed potatoes, Heidelberg cabbage, beets, plain rice ; cocoanut pudding, cake. Sapper — Cold meat, rice fritters, baked apples. 25. Tliankscjivinrf Day. Breakfast — Grapes, oatmeal with cream, panned oysters with toast, hot rolls, broiled mutton chops, raw potatoes fried, flan- nel cakes witii maple syrup or honey. Dinner — Turtle, chicken, or oyster soup, baked fish if large and fresh, or stewed if canned (cod, halibut, or sal- mon,) mafdied potatoes, celery, roast turkey, baked sweet-potatoes, Lima beans, stewed tomatoes, onions, beets, cranl)crry sauce, cabbage salad, green pickles; pumpkin pic, mince pie, plum pudding, ice-cream, rissolletts, assorted cakes, oranges and grapes, nuts. Supper— Li^ht biscuit, shaved cold turkey, currant jelly, cheese sandwiches, tea cakes, apples and jelly. 26. Breakfast — Battered toast; turkey hash or croquettes of meat and vegetables. Dinner — Escalopcd turkey, turnips, beets, potatoes, slaw, corn stiu-ch pudding, cakes. SupjJer — Light biscuit, cold turkey, cranberry sauce, Welch rarebit. 27. Breakfast — Corn bread, broiled spare ribs, potatoes. Dinner — Tur- key soup, venison steak, potatoes a la pancake, carrots, boiled beets ; custard pie, cake. Supper — Cold rolls, cold tongue, mush and milk. 23. Sunday. Breakfast — Graham gems, veal cutlets, omelet. Dinner — Ovster roll, cold sliced tongue, turnips mashed, baked sweet-potatoes, cel- ery; pumpkin pic, grapes, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, cold tongue, cur- rant jelly, cake. 29. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried venison, fried sweet potatoes. Din- gier — Roast mutton, baked potatoes, baked turnips, plum jelly ; grapes, choc- olate cake. Sujiper — Light biscuit, sliced mutton, doughnuts. 30. Breakfast — Hot'roUs, mutton croquettes, potatoes. Dinner — Boiled corned beef with turnips and potatoes, pickled beets, Chili sauce ; peach rell. Supper— Cold rolls, sliced corned beef, baked apples, rusk. A year's bill op fare. 905 Bill of Fare for December. 1. Breakfast — Com batter cakes, devilled oj'sters, fried potatoes. Diu' ner — Chicken pie with oysters, canned Lima beans, cabbage salad; pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Hot tea rolls, bologna sausage, canned fruit, cake. 2. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, sausage, croquettes of hominy. Din- ner — Veal pot-pie, canned tomatoes, apple sauce ; eggless plum pudding, jelly cake, Supper — Biscuits, frizzled beef, fried apples, cake. 3. Breakfast. — Waffles, broiled steak, omelet. Dinner. — Herring pud- ding, mashed potatoes, celery, tui'nips ; baked apple dumpling with hard sauce, cake. Supper — Toast, pressed meat, cream fritters, apple jelly. 4. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled spare ribs, fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Broiled beefsteak, stufled cabbage, potato souflle, turnips, celery; molasses pudding, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongue, float- ing island. 5. Sunday. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, beefsteak toast, potato cakes. Dinner — Roast haunch of venison, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, apple sauce, cheese fingers, celery; fig pudding with lemou sauce, cake. Supper — Tea buns, cold venison, canned fruit, lady fingers. 6. Breakfast — Cream toast, fric.i'telli, potato cakes. Dinner — Baked veal, potatoes, phiin boled rice ; peach roll, cake. Supper — Cold veal sliced, but- tered toast, jelly and cake. 7. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, veal patties, corn dodgers. Dinner — Veal pie, carrots, boiled beets; crumb pie, cake. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, baked apples and buns. 8. Breakfast — Corn muffins, breaded veal cutlets, Saratoga potatoes. Dinner — Stewed oysters, roast mutton with potatoes, tomatoes, celery; pine- apple ice-cream, jelly cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold mutton sliced, apple crotites. 9. Breakfast — Hot rolls, cracked wheat, breakfast stew. Dinner — Roast quails, baked potatoes, Lima beans, celery; pumpkin pie, cake. Supjier — Cold rolls, cold tongue sliced, baked apples, tea cakes. 10. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, smoked sausage broiled, hominy cro- quettes. Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, mashed potatoes, squash, cabbage salad ; hot peach pie with cream, cake. Supper — Light biscuit, stewed oysters, canned fruit with cake. 11. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, rabbit stewed, potato cakes. Dinner — Chicken fricassee, baked putatoes, baked turnips ; cottage pudding with sauce, cake. Suppei — French rolls, Welsh rarebit, jam. 12. Sunday. Breakfast — Muffins, broiled spare ribs, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roast turkey garnished with fried oysters, mashed potatoes, tuiniips, cranberry sauce, celery ; cream tarts, carrot pudding. Supper — Light bis- cuit, cold turkey, jelly and cake. 13. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried apples, cold turkey broiled. Din- ner — Roast turkey warmed over, potatoes whole, canned coru; canned fruit and cream. Supper — Cold turkey, mush andmilk, buns, jam. 14. Breakfast — Plain bread, fried corn mush, breakfast bacon, fried cabbage. Dinner — Fried rabbit, canned tomatoes, diced turnips ; mince pie, cake. Supper — Hot short cake, boiled oysters on the half shell, tea rolls, canned fruit. 15. Breakfast — Crumb griddle cakes, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — Boiled corned beef willi turnips, potatoes and cabbage ; baked apple dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Biscuit, cold beef, canned cherries. 16. Breakfast — Graham rolls, croquettes of codfish with potatoes. Din- ner — Baked chickens with parsnips, mashed potatoes, celery, currant jelly; preserves with whipped cream. Supper — Plain bread, cold chicken, toasted rusk, jelly. 006 A YEARNS BILL OF FARH. 17. Breal-fast — Oyster toast, broiled steak, potatoes. Dinner — Steamed fish, steamed potatoes, celery, Lima beans, stewed tomato ; mince pie. Sup- per — Cold rolls, chicken pates, baked apples. 18. Breakfmt — AVaffles, croquettes of fish, fried potatoes. Dinner — Sat- urday bean soup, broiled venison steak, mashed potatoes, beets ; vinegar pie, cake. Supper — Toast, cold ham, buns, jelly. 19. Sunday. Breakfast — Buttered toast, broiled oysters, potato cakes, fried parsnips. Dinner — Bouillon, roast domestic ducks, mashed potatoes and turnips, boiled onions, celery sauce, snow jelly ; fig pudding with lemon sauce, cake. Suppe) — Tea rolls, salmi of duck, apple croutes. 20. Breakfa!>l — Corn batter cakes, broiled bacon, potatoes. Dinner — Mac- aroni soup, roast spare rib, baked potatoes, salsify, cabbage salad ; jdain In- dian pudding with sauce. Supper — Biscuit, cold pressed meat, sliced apples. 21. Brenkfafit — .Tnhnny cake, sausage, hominy croquettes. Dinner — Bouillon with Sweedish dumplings, roast rabliits, baked potatoes, slaw ; ap- ple meringue pie, jelly cake. Supper — Light biscuit, dried beef frizzled. 22. Breakfatst — Fried pork steak, frietl raw potatoes, fried cabbage. Din- ner — Venison roast with potatoes, boiled onions, plum jelly; chocolate pud- ding, cake. Supper — Sliced venison with jelly, sweet wafers, canned fruit. 23. Breakfast — Breakfast stew of cold venison, fried potatoes, Indian pancakes. Dinnet — Spanish pot-pie, canned tomatoes ; starch pudding. Sup- per — Graham mush and milk and jam. 24. BrcakfaM — Sally Lunn, broiled beefsteak, Lyonyiaise potatoes, bread cakes with syrup. Dinner — Chicken soup, chickens dressed with parsley and egg sauce, potatoes, salsify, slaw ; hot apple pie with cream. Supper — Cold chicken, French rolls, apple sauce. 25. Christmas. Breakfast — Grapes and bananas, broiled oysters on toast, waffles with honey. Dinner — Raw oysters served with sliced lemon ; turtle soup ; baked fresh fish ; roast turkey garnished with fried oysters, mashed potatoes, Lima beans, pickled beets, mayonaise of chicken salad, celery, cheese ramakins, cranberry sauce ; Christmas plum pudding with rich sauce ; mince pie, sponge anfl lady cake mixed, pine-apple ice fanchonettes, fruit and nuts. Supper or Luncheon — Curried oysters, Vienna rolls, slaw, apple trifle with whipped cream, ladv fingers, cake. 2f). Sunday. Breakfast — Corn muffins, oysters in shell, croquettes of turkey, potato rissoles. Dinner — Turkey soup, quail on toast, walled oysters, boiled onions, celery and slaw; ice-cream, cake. Supper — Bread and milk, lemon fritters with sugar, rusk. 27. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, broiled spare rib or sausage, pates of turkey hot with gravy, hominy. Dinner — Escaloped turkey, baked potatoes, canned corn ; mince p\o, cakes. Supper — Biscuit, cold tongue, cakes. 28. Breakfast — Hot rolls, fried liver, oyster omelet. Dinner— Oysttn- !>oup, roast pig (garnished with bocpiettes of beets, carrots and green pickk's carved), whole steamed potatoes, parsnijjs, beets, macaroni with cheese; peach pie with cream. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced tongue, api)le croutes, cake. 29. Breakfast — Oyster toast, veal sweet-breads, potatoes fried whole. Dinner — Mutton soup, mutton dressed with caper sauce, baked jiotatoes, canned pease, celery, cranl)(>rrv jelly; cocoanut pudding, cake. Supper — Cold mutton, short cake with jam. .30. Breakfast — (Jraham gems, broiled veal cutlets, fried potatoes. Din- ner — Roast stufied chicken, mashed patatoes, salsify, canned corn, currant jeliy, celery, prairie plum pudding. Sup})cr. — Raw oysters, French rolls, jellied chicken, grape jell}', assorted cakes. 31. Breakfast. — Fried oysters, Duchess potatoes, wafTies with majde syrup, baked apples. Dinner. — Boiled fish with Hollandaise sauce, steamed potatoes, canned tomatoes, canned succotash ; queen of puddings. Supper,—' fricassed oysters, slaw, celery, waffles and honey, canned pears. ADDITIONAL BILLS OF FARE. 907 Note.— Observe that these bills of fare are made with especial reference to the ordinary routine of the week in the kitchen, the meals for each day being planned to save labor and fuel, and to interfere as little as possible with the special work of the day. Thus Monday's bill of fare wll not fit .■ ny other day of the week if Monday is set apart as washing day. The housekeeper should aim at variety on successive meals rather than in the same meal, remember that a few dishes daint ly cooked and served make a far more attractive dinner than many dishes less perfectly cooked and served. Additional Bills of Fare. New Year's Table. — When receiving calls on New Year's day, the table should be handsomely arranged and decorated, and provided with rather substantial dishes, such as would suit the taste of gentlemen. Too great profusion, especially of cakes, confectionery audioes, is out of taste. Selec- tions may be made from the following: Escaloped oysters, cold tongue, turkey, chicken, and ham, pressed meats, boned turkey, jellied chicken, sandwiches or wedding sandwich rolls ; pickled oysters, chicken and lobster salads, cold slaw garnished with fried oysters; bottled pickles, 1 rencli or Spanish pickles ; cheese straws; jellies; Charlotte-russe, ice-creams, ices, two large handsome cakes for decoration of table, and one or two baskets of mixed cake, fruit, layer, and sponge cake predominating ; fruits ; nuts ; coffee ; chocolate with whipped cream, lemonade. Refreshments. — For small evening parties, sociables, receptions, etc., where the rereshments are handed round or are served from a sideboard, and are of a simple character, everything should be excellent in the highest de- gree, delicately prepared, and attractivelj' served. Sandwiches and coffee, chocolate or tea, a variety of nice cake, jellies, ice-cream or ices, and fruits are appropriate. For a more pretentious occasion, a simple table prettily decorated with flowers, and set with fruit, lobster salad, chicken croquettes, pickled oysters, and one or two kinds of ice-cream and cake, and coffee and tea is quite enough. Refreshments for Twenty. — For a company of twenty allow one gallon oysters, four chickens and eight bunches of celery for a chicken salad, fifty sandwiches, one gallon gopher orange-ice, two molds Charlotte russe, two quarts of lemon jelly, one light and one dark fruit cake, two layer cakes, and one white or sponge cake ; for coffee use one and a half pints ground coffee and gallon of water; fruit cake especially, and, indeed, all rich cake, should be cut in thin slices with a keen-edged knife ; a small piece of each variety is always preferred to a plate overloaded with one or two kinds. Refreshments for a Hundred. — For a large company of a hundred the refreshments may be made more elaborate : Two gallons of pickled oysters ; two large dishes of lobster salad ; two small hams boiled and sliced cold, five cold tongues sliced thin, twelve chickens jellied or pressed, each dish gar- nished witn sprigs of parsley, slices of lemon and red beets, or curled leaves of celery, or the tender center leaves of lettuce ; two gallons of boughten pickles or a gallon and a half of home-made ; twelve dozen biscuit sandwiches ; five quarts jelley, four gallons ice-cream ; fifteen large cakes, to be made from recipes for rich fruit, delicate, layer, and sponge cakes ; twelve dozen each of almond macaroons and variety puff's; four dishes of mixed fruits; five pounds roasted coffee and five gallons water, which should be served just be- fore ice-cream and six gallons of iced lemonade to serve last. Refreshments for One Hundred and Seventy-Five. — Six gallons oysters; three small hams, five large turkeys, ten tongues ; six chicicens and twelve bunches celery for salad ; three gallons pickles ; seventeen dozen buns, twelve loaves bread made in wedding sandwich rolls or in plain sandwiches ; twenty-one large cakes ; fifteen dozen large oranges sliced, seventeen aozen meringues, fifteen dozen pears ; twenty pounds grapes ; seven gallons ice- 908 ADDITIONAL BILLS OF FARE. cream and four gallons lemon ice •,'coffee made of twelve pints ground coffee and ei/nt gallons water ; serve coffee and lemonade as above. FOR THE PICNIC. In the "Sunny Soutn, • picnics are in order as early as April, but in the more northern latitudes should never be attempted before the latter part of May or June, and September and October are tlie crowning months for them around the northern lakes, where hunting and fishing give zest to the sports. First, be up at "live o'oiock in the morning," in order to have the chicken, biscuit, etc., freshly baked. Provide two b;^skets, one for the provisions, and the other for dishes and utensils, which should include the following: Table- cloth and oil-cloth to put under it, najjkins, towels, plates, cups, forks, a few knives and table-spoons, tea-spoons, sauce dishes, tin cups (or tumblers, if picknickers are of the over-fastidious variety) : a tin bucket, for water, in which a bottle of cream, lemons, oranges, or other fruit may be carried to the scene of action ; another with an extra close cover, partly filled with made chocolate, which may be readily reheated by setting in an old tin pail or pan in which water is kept boiling a la custard-kettle ; frying-pan : a coffee-pot, with the amount of prepared coffee needed tied in a coarse, white flannel bag; a tea-pot, with tea in a neat paper package; tin boxes of salt, pepper, and sugar; a tin box of butter (if carried) placed next to block of ice, which should be well wrapped witli blanket and put in a shady corner of the pic- nic wagon. For extra occasions, add a freezer filled with frozen cream, with ice Aveil packed around it, and heavily wrapped with carpeting. To pack the basket, first put in plates, cups, and sauce dishes carefully with the tow- els and napkins, and paper ii needed ; then add the rest, fitting them in tightly, and covering all with the table-cloth,- and over it the oil cloth. Tie the coffee and tea-pots, well wrapped up, and the frying-pan to the handles. Pack provision basket as full as the law allows, or as the nature of the occa- sion and the elasticity of the appetites demand. The following bills of fare may be picked to pieces and recombined to suit tastes and occasions : Spring Picnics. — Cold roast chicken ; ham broiled on coals ; fish fried or broiled ; sardines ; tongue ; liard boiled eggs ; eggs to be fried or scrambled ; Boston corn bread ; buttered rolls; ham sandwiches prepared with grated ham ; orange marmalade ; canned peaches ; water-melon and beet sweet-pic- kles ; euchered plums ; variety or bottled pickles ; chov/-chow ; quince or plum jellv; raspberry or other jams; Scotch fruit, rolled jelly, chocolate, Minnehalia, old-fashioned loaf, and marble cake; coffee, chocolate, tea; cream and sugar ; salt and pepper ; oranges. Summer Piciiics. — Cold baked or broiled chicken; cold boiled ham; pickled salmon ; cold veal loaf ; Parker House rolls ; light bread ; box of butter ; green corn boiled or roasted ; new potatoes ; sliced tomatoes ; sliced cucumbers ; French and Spanish pickles ; peach and pear sweet-pickles ; li mon or orange jelly ; strawberries, raspberries or blackberries ; lemonade ; Eoda-beer or raspberry vinegar ; coffee and iced tea ; ice-cream ; lemon or straw- berry-ice ; sponge, white. Buckeye, or lemon cake ; water-melon, musk-melon, nutmeg-melon. Fall Picnics. — Broiled prairie chicken; fish chowder; clam chowder; clams roasted or fried ; beef omelet ; cold veal roast ; sardines ; cold roast chicken ; pot of pork and beans ; rusk, Minnesota rolls, Boston brown bread ; potatoc, Irish or sweet, roasted in ashes ; egg sandwiches ; mangoes, piccal- lilli; Chili sauce; quince marmalade; baked apples; musk and nutmeg- melon ; crab apple jolly ; grape jelly ; black, orange, velvet, sponye and three- ply cake ; combination pie. eOOK'S TIME TABLE. COOK'S TIMES TABLB. Apples, sour, hard Apples, sweet and mellow. Apple Dumpling, Apples, sour and mellow. . Asparagus Barley Beans, (pod) Beans with green corn Beef Beef, seasoned with salt. . . Beef, with mustard, etc Beefsteak Beefsteak Beef, salted Bass, fresh Beets, young Beets, old Bread, corn Bread, wheat Butter Cabbage Cabbage and vinegar. . .'. .. Cabbage Cauliflower Cake, sponge Cake, c. rn Carrot, orange Cheese, old Chicken Codfish, dry and whole Custard (one quart) Duck, tame Duck, wild Dumpling, apple Eggs, hard Eggs, soft Eggs Eggs Fowls, domestic, roasted or Goose, wild Hash, Meat and Vegetables, warmed over. Lamb Meat and vegetables Milk Milk Mutton Mutton, boiled or Onions Mode of Time of Time of Preparation. Cooking. Diges'n H. M. H. M. Raw 2 50 Raw 1 50 Boiled 1 00 8 00 Raw 2 00 Boiled 15 to 30 2 30 Boiled 3 00 2 00 Boiled 1 00 230 Boiled 45 3 4.5 Roaste * 25 3 00 Boiled 25 2 45 Boiled 25 330 Broiled 15 3 00 Fried 15 4 00 Boiled * 35 4 15 Broiled 20 300 Boiled 2 00 S 45 Boiled 4 30 4 00 Baked 45 3 15 Baked 1 00 330 Melted 3 30 Raw 2 30 Raw 200 Boiled 1 00 4 30 Boiled 1—2 00 2 35 Baked 45 2 31 Baked 30 3 00 BoUed 1 00 3 30 Raw 3 45 Fricasseed 1 00 8 00 Boiled 15 2 45 Baked 30 2 00 Roasted 1 30 4 00 Roasted 1 00 4 30 Boiled 1 00 3 00 BoMed 10 3 30 Boiled 3 3 30 Fried 5 3 00 Raw 200 Whipped Boiled "i'oo 1 30 4 00 Roasted * 20 230 2 30 Boiled * 20 2 30 Hashed 30 2 30 Raw 2 10 Boiled 2 00 Roast * 20 2 15 Broiled * 25 3 00 BoUed 1—2 00 3 0« COOK S TIME TABLE. Mode of Preparation . Time of Cookinff. Oysters Roasted Oysters stewed Oysters, fresh Raw Parsnips Boiled Pig's feet Soused Pork Roasted Pork Boiled Pork, rawer Fried Pork ; Broiled Potatoes Boiled Potatoes Baked Potatoes Roasted Rice Boiled Sago T.. Boiled Salmon, fresh Boiled Salmon, salted . Boiled Sausage ' Fried Sausage Broiled Soup, marrowbones Boiled Soup,beans Bailed Soup, barley Boiled Soup, vegetable Boiled Soup, chicken Soup, oyster or mutton Spjnaeh Tapioca Tomatoes Tomatoes ] . Trout, salmon, fresh, boiled or Turkey, boiled or . . . Turnips Veal... ■■ Veal, fresh Boiled Boiled Boiled Boiled Fresh Canned Fried Roasted Boiled Broiled - Fried Venison Steak ■""iBroiled 1 00 25 20 3 00 3 00 2 00 3 00, 2 OOl i3 30 1—2 00 1 30 1 00 30 30 20 45 20 30 20 Time of Diges'n. 3 30 3 05 255 2 30 1 00 5 15 4 30 4 15 3 15 330 2 30 2 30 1 00 1 45 1 45 4 00 4 00 3 30 4 15 3 00 1 30 4 00 3 00 3 30 2 30 200 2 30 2 30 1 30 2 30 3 30 4 00 4 30 1 36 *Minutes to the pound. fMutton soup The time given is the general average; this time will vary slightly with the quality of the article. TABLE OP WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. TABLE OF ^\^EIG^HTS AND MEASURES. 1 quart oatmeal weighs 1 lb. 1% tablespoons rice weigh 1 oz. 1 pint bread-crumbs weighs 7 oz. 1 pint coffee "A" sugar weighs 12 oz. 1% pints powdered sugar weigh 1 tt). 1 pint best brown sugar weighs 13 oz. Soft butter size of an egg weighs 1 oz. 1 quart finely-chopped suet weigh 1 Itj. 1 quart unsifted flour weighs 1 lb. 1 oz. 2 tablespoons bread-crumbs weigh 1 oz. 4 tea-cups sifted flour (level) weighs 1 lb. 10 medium-sized or 8 large eggs weigh 1 tb. 14 tablespoons bread-crumbs equal 1 pint. 354 tea-cups Indian meal (level) equal 1 qt. 1 quart sifted Indian meal weighs 1 lb. 4 oz. 3 coffee-cups sifted flour (level) weighs 1 tb. 1 pint soft buttter (well packed) weighs 1 lb. 1 quart sifted flour (well leaped) weighs 1 lb. 2 tea-cups coffee "A" sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 2 tea-cups granulated sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 2?^ coffee-cups Indian meal (level) equal Iqt. " 1 pint granulated sugar (heaped) weighs 14 oz. 2^4 tea-cups powdered sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 2 tea-cups soft butter (well packed) weigh 1 lb. 2 coffee-cups powdered sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 2}4 tea-cups best brown sugar (level) weigh 1 tb. 1}4 coffee-cups granulated sugar (level weigh 1 tb. 3 tablespoons sweet chocolate (grated) weigh 1 oz. 1% coffee-cups best brown sugar (level) weighs 1 tb. 1 tablespoon (well-rounded) of soft butter weighs 2oz. 1 tablespoon (well heaped) of common salt weighs 1 oz. 1% coffee-cups coffee "A" sugar (well heaped) weigh 1 lb. 4 tablespoons soft butter (well-heaped) equal one tea-cup. 5 tablespoons sifted flour or meal (heaping) equal 1 teacup. 7 tablespoons granulated sugar (heaping) equal one tea-cup. 2 tablespoons (well-rounded) of powdered sugar or flour weigh 1 oz. 2 teaspoons (heaping) of flour, sugar or meal, equal 1 heaping tablespoon. 1 tablespoon (well heaped) granulated coffee "A" or best brown sugar, 1 oz. LIQUIDS. 4 teacupfuls equal 1 qt. 8 tablespoons equal 1 gill. 16 tablespoonfuls equal }4 Pint- 1 teacupful equals 8 fluid oz, or 2 jilli. TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 1 pint contains 16 fluid ounces (i gills.) 1 ounce contains 8 fluid drachms Q4 gill.) 1 teaspoon contains about 1 fluid drachm. 1 tablespoon contains about J^ fluid ounce. A common-sized tumbler holds about 14 pint. 4tea8poonfuls equal one tablespoon or 5.4 fluid ounce. 1 wine-glass full (common-size) equals 4 tablespoons or 2 fluid oz. A teaspoonful (for brevity, teaspoon is used forteaspoonful in the recipes of this book) is equal in volume to 45 drops of pure water (distilled) at 60 deg. Fah. Teaspoons vary so much in size that there is a wide margin of difi'erence in containing capacity. AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 16 drams (dr. make 1 ounce (oz.) 25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.) 16 ounces make 1 pound (it.) 4 quarters make 1 hundred weight (cwt.). 2000 weight makes 1 ton (T). LIQUID MEASURE. 4 gills (gi.) make 1 pint (pt.) I 2 pints make l|quart (qt> 4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.) | WEIGHTS OF ARTICLES. Apples, dried, bushel 25 pounds. Beef, firkin, 100 " Pork barrel, 200 " Beans, bushel, 60 " Butter, firkin, 56 " tub, 84 " Peaches, dried, bushel,.'}3 " Fish, barrel, 200 " " quintal, 112 " Flour, barrel, net, 196 pounds. Honev, gallon, 12 " Molas"ses, hhd., 130 to 150 gallons. Salt, barrel, 3;2 bushels. " bushel, 70 pounds. Sugar, barrel, 200 to 250 pounds. Soap, barrel, 256 " " box, 75 " Tea, chest, 60 to 84 " WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON. 917 ^WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASOIST. Apples are in season all the year ; cheapest from August until spring. Artichokes (Jerusalem) are ready for use in September. AsPAKAGUS from the first of May until middle of June. Bass, a fish of which there are a dozen varieties, at all times of the year. Beans, String, June to November ; Lima, from July through the year. Beep is good at all seasons of the year. Beets from June through the year. Blackberries from July to September. Blue Fish, a popular fish on the sea coast, from June to October. Brant, a choice wild fowl, April and May, and September and October. Bream, a fish sometimes known as dace, in the winter months. Broccoli, a kind of cabbage, from September to November. Buckwheat Cakes in cold weather. Butternuts ripen in September. Cabbage, May and June and lasts through the winter. Carrots come from the south, in May, and last until November. Cauliflower from June until October, Celery from August to April, but is better after being touchtd by fr«it. Checkerberry in winter and spring. Cheese all the year round. Cherries from the south in May, and continue till Augtut. Chkstmuts after the first severe frost. Chocolate is best in cold weather, on account of its riehniM. Chub, a fresh-water fish, in fall and winter. Clams from May until September. Conger Eels from November to April. Corn, Green, from June to September, Crabs from June to January, but are more wholesome in the cold months. Cranberries from September to April. Cucumbers in the south, April ; in Middle States Jane to November. Currants, green, June to July ; ripe July to August. Damsons, a small black plum, July to Decembtr. D«vis th« turtle, one of the best game bixd«, U An^HMt tm$. H^t10%m'. 918 WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON. Ducks, Domestic, are best in June and July ; wild in spring or fall. Eels from April till November. Eggs are are always in season, but are cheap in spring and high in winter. Elderberries August and September. Fish, as a rule are in best condition just before spawning. ■ Geese, wild from October to December, tame at four months old. Gooseberries from Ju.ie to December. Grapes from September '''1 winter. Guinea Fowl, best in winter when they take the place of partridges. Haddock, from November and December and June and July. Halibut in season all the year. Herring from February to May. Herbs for seasoning should be gathered just as thej' begin to flower. Horseradish is always in season. Lamb in March, but from June to August is best as well as cheapest. Lemons arrive fresh from West Indies in winter . Lobsters are plentiful in market, except in winter months. Mackerel from May through the summer. Mushrooms are most plentiful in August and September. MusKMELONs froiu July to the middle of September. Mutton is in season all the year, but is not so good in the fall, the meat b e- ing drier and strong flavored. Onions, new, large, from the Bermudas about May 1st, and from the south in June, and those of home raising in the Middle States the middle of July. Oranges from Florida and West Indies are in market from October until April; those from the Mediterranean from January until May. The Florida oranges are best and largest. Oysters are in season from September to May ; May, June and July be- ing the spawning months. Partridges, Pheasants or Ruffled Grouse, are in season in most markets from September to January, but are best in October and November. Paw-Paws are ripe about the middle of September. Peas, Green, reach market from Bermudas about 'May 1 ; from the South May 15; home grown, in the Middle States, about June 15. Peaches come from the Bermudas May 1 from the south July 1 ; and are plenty in market from August to November. Pears which are best for eating are in season from August to October. Pickerel is best from September to March. Pigeons, wild are plentiful in September and October. Pork should never be eaten in warm weather. Potatoes, new, arrive from the Bermudas about April ; from the South June to July, and are plentiful in July and August. Potatoes, Sweet, are in season from August to December, after which they lose their flavor. Prairie Chickens in season from August to October. WHEN FOOD IS IN SEASON. 919 Prunes arrive fresh from December to May. Pumpkins are in season from September to January. Quail (often called Partridge in the South) from November and December. QuiNCKS are in season from October to December. Rabbits are in best condition in November, but are in season from Sep- tember till January, and in the North later, until breeding season begins. Radishes are in season»from April till cold weather. Rail, an excellent little game bird, is best in September and October. Raspberries are in market from the middle of June till September. Rbed-Birds are best in September and October. Rhubarb from April to September. Salmon from March till September. Shad arppear in market from February 20 to June. Smelts are abundant from October to April. Snipe are in market from March 20 to April 20, and again in October. Spinach is the earliest vegetable used for greens, and is continued through the season by providing a succession of crops. Squash — Summer, from June to August ; winter from August through the winter. Strawberries from the South appear as early as April 1, but are not plen- tiful until June, and the season is over in July Sturgeon from April to September. Suckers from October to April. Tomatoes are not plentiful in Northern markets before June. Trout, Brook, are in season from March till August, ; lake trout from Oc- tober to March ; Mackinaw trout in winter months. Turkeys are best in fall and winter, though in market all the season. Turnips, new, are in market about June 1 , and last through the year. Turtles are in market from May to winter. Veal is in season except in hot weather, when it keeps badly. Venison from the buck is best from August to November, from the doe from November to January. Watekmelons are in season from July to October. Woodcock is in season from July to November, but is best in October. ftSO BOM P All ATI VE VALUE OF FUEL. COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FUEL. A cord of wood is 128 cubic feet ; the sticks are cut four feet long and piled four feet high, and in a pile eight feet long. Wood cut to stove length, eighteen to twenty inches, is sometimes sold as a cord, when only eight feet long, four feet high, and as wide as the sticks are long, but it is not, of course, really a cord. The fair way to sell fuel, however, would be by weight; and when weights are equal the wood containing the most hydrogen will pro- duce the most heat. Thus, one hundred pounds of dry pine are worth more as fuel than the same number of pounds of dry oak. Wood can never be economically used in a green state, as it then contains about 25 per cent, of water, which must be evaporated, and all the heat required to evaporate this Bap is wasted. We give below a table, in which shell-bark hickory is made the standard of comparison, rated at 100 in value and 1000 in weight, and the weights of other varieties show their comparative value, which may be read- ily estimated in dollars and cents. For instance, if hickory is worth $7.00 per cord, the proper value of white oak would be $4.86. for as 100 (hickory) is to $6.00, BO is 81 to the value of white oak, $4.86. WOODS Shell-bark Hickory. . White Walnut White Oak White Ash Scrub Oak Red Oak Black Walnut AVhite Beech Yellow Oak Sugar Maple White Elm Yellow-pine Sycamore Chestnut Poplar Pitch-pine White-pine Lombardy Poplar . . Comparative Weight per Comp. AVeight. Cord. Value. 1000 4469 100 949 4241 95 855 3821 81 722 3450 77 747 3339 73 728 3255 69 681 3044 6.5 724 3236 65 653 2916 60 644 2878 60 580 3592 58 551 2463 54 535 2391 62 522 2233 52 563 2516 52 426 1904 43 418 1868 42 397 1774 40 COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FUEL. 9§1 The quantity of combustible matter in fuel, if weight and other conditions are equal, is indicated by the amount of ashes or non-combustible matter remaining. The heating power of fuel is dependent partly on this, but not wholly. Fuel is valuable for various purposes in proportion to the flame it produces. A blaze is of great service when heat is to be applied to a great surface ; but where an even or lasting heat is required, a more solid fuel is to be preferred. The various qualities of bituminous, or soft, and anthracite coals, as sold indifferent markets, makes it impossible to give any accurate comparison of values. Measured by pounds, if anthracite is made the standard at 250, sea- soned oak ranks 125, or one-half in value ; hickory, 137 ; white pine, 137 ; yellow pine, 145, coke, 285 ; while the bituminous coals vary from 188 to 248. As regards the different kinds of bituminous or soft coal each locality has its preference, but the "Briar Hill" is well known and very popular. Of the anthracite or hard, it is the same, there being many kinds, although many prefer the "Lehigh." In all hard coal there are four grades most commonly used : Nut, the finest, for stoves, both cook and heating; Stove, next larger, which is often used alone for stoves, but is best when used with Nut, half and half ; if there is a good draft to the chimney, it is more econo- mical than using all Nut. ^gr^;, next in size and used for grates, open stoves and furnaces. Grate, the largest size used for large furnaces ; but when used with Egg, half and half makes a more economical fuel for house furnaces, where there is a good draft to the chimney, than egg used alone, especially in very cold weather. One should try it thus. 7)^-2 nOUSKKEElPIN^Gi-. Housekeeping, whatever may be the opinion of the butterflies of the period, is an accomplishment in comparison to which, in its bearing on wom- an's relation to real life and to the family, all others are trivial. It compre- hends all that goes to make up a well-ordered home, where the sweetest re- lations of life rest on firm foundations, and the purest sentiments thrive. It is an accomplishment that may be acquired by study and experiment, but the young and inexperienced housekeeper generally reaches success only through great tribulation. It ought to be absorbed in girlhood, by easy lessons taken between algebra, music and painting, If girls were taught to take as much genuine pride in dusting a room well, hanging a curtain gracefully, or broil- ing a steak to a nicety, as they feel when they have mastered one of Mozart's or Beethoven's grand symphonies, there would be fewer complaining hus- bands and unhappy wives. The great lesson to learn is that work well-done is robbed of its curse. The woman who is satisfied only with the highest per- fection in her work, drops the drudge and becomes the artist. There is no dignity in slighted work ; but to the artist, no matter how humble his calling, belongs the honor which is insei)arable from all man's struggles after per- fection. No mother, who has the happiness of her daughter at heart, will neglect to teach her first the duties of the household ; and no daughter who aspires to be queen at home and in her circle of friends, can afford to remain ignorant of the smallest details that contribute to the comfort, the peace and the attractiveness of home. There is no luck in housekeejjing, however it may seem. Everythinj; works by exact rule, and even with tliorough knowl- edge, eternal vigilance is the price of success. There must be a place for every thing and every thing in its place, a time for every thing and every thing in its time, and "patience, patience," must be written in it the material which it has absorbed, and which those who were breathing the same air would have taken into their system. If but one coat of paint is to be placed upon an apartment, all the wood should be carefully washed with strong sal-soda water, and dried before painting it, to remove any oily or dingy spots that would otherwise soon show through a single layer of either white or color. Any woman of a mechanical turn of mind can paint a room, Iniying the paint ready mixed. While painting keep the room well ventilated and eat acid fruits. When done, any spatters on the glass may be removed by the HOUSEKEEPING. 937 application of a mixture of equal parts of ammonia and turpentine, washed oS with soap-suds. To polish the glass, wash in warm water, wipe with a soft cloth, put a little whiting on the center of the pane, and rub with chamois- skin or a soft cloth. PAPERING. In papering a hard-finished wall, a thin solution of white glue should be first applied with a white-wash brush. To make the paste, sift the flour, add one ounce pulverized alum to every pound of flour, mix it smoothly with cold water, and pour over it gently but quickly boiling water, stirring mean- time constantly. When it swells and turns yellow it is done, but it is not to be used until cool, and may be kept for some time without spoiling. Or, for paste, clear corn-starch is sometimes used, made precisely as made for starch- ing clothes. It is well to use a small quantity of carbolic acid in it, as a pre- caution against vermin. A thin paste of wheat, or what is better, rye flour, is, however, very good for anything except the most delicate papers. The wall should be smooth, and if very smoky or greasy in spots, it should be washed with weak lye or soap-suds. Trim the paper close to the patern on one side. A pair of long shears is best for the purpose — allowing the roll to lie on the floor, and rolling up again on the lap as fast as trimmed. Provide a board wider than the paper, and a little longer than a single breadth when cut. Cut all the full breadths that will be required for the room, matching as you cut, and saving remnants for door and window spaces. Begin at the right hand and work to the left. The breadths may be laid one on another on the board, the top one pasted with a good brush, the top turned down, bringing the two pasted sides together, a foot or two from the other end. Carefully adjust the top to its place, gently pressing it with soft towels, first down the middle of the breadth and then to each edge. In turnino- a corner paste only that part which belongs to one side, fasten it in place, and then paste and adjust the rest. The border may be tacked on; No. 4 tacks will not be visible at the top of aroom, and it may be removed when the ceilin<>- needs whitening. In selecting paper avoid contrasts in colors and largo staring patterns, as they are out of taste and tiresome to the eye. Choose rather neutral tints and colors that harmonize and blend agreeably together and with the general tone of carpets and furniture. Even with a bare floor and plain wooden chairs, the efi'ect of a soft-tinted paper gives a vastly dif- ferent impression than if the wall is disfigured with glaring figures and con- trasting colors. If ceilings are low, heighten the appearance by a figure which runs perpendicularly through the wall-paper ; the effect produced is very deceptive — the ceiling appearing much higher than it really is. Wall- paper is half a yard wide, and about eight yards to the roll, so that it is easy to estimate the quantity needed. It is wise always to get one extra roll for repairs. After papering a room build no fire in it until drj^ HOUSE-CLEANING DOTS. To Clean Chromos. — Dampen a linen rag slightly and go over them gently. If the varnish has become defaced, cover with a thin mastic varnish. 938 HOrSEKEEPTNG. To Remove Ink Spots From Floors. — Rub with sand wet in oil of ^^t^ol and water ; when ink is removed rinse with pearl-ash water. Hard Whitewash. — Ten cents worth of kalsomine, five cents worth of glue dissolved in warm water, two quarts of soft soap, and bluing. This wfll do for hjlls, closets, fences, etc. To Remove Grease From Wood Before Painting. — ^Whitewash the spots over night, and wash it off in the morning. When dry, the paint will stick. Slaked lime laid on the spots and wet a little, will do as well as whitewash. To Wash Windows. — Dissolve a little washing soda in the water and wet the window well with it ; dry quickly with a soft towel, and polish with chamois skin or newspaper rubbed soft between the hands, or put a teaspoon kerosene in a quart of water, wash with that and dry and polish as above. Cleaning Micture For Carpets, Etc. — Half bar Ivory soap, and a lump each of saltpeter and salsoda the size of a walnut ; add two quarts of boiling soft water ; stir well and let stand till cool, then add three ounces am- monia, bottle and cork tight. Will keep good a year. Some use only three pints water. This may also be used for bed-bugs, and it is good for cleaning paint, clothes, etc. To Clean Looking Glasses. — Divide a newspaper in two, fold up one- half in a small square, wet in cold water. Rub the glass first with the wet half of the paper, and dry -mth. the other. Fly-specks and all othar marks will disappear as if bj' magic. This is only true of the best quality of rag paper, such as is used by the best weekly papers. Paper which has wood or straw in it leaves a linty deposit on the glass. To Clean Oil-Cloths. — Take a pail of clean, soft, lukewarm water, a nice soft piece of flannel, wash the oil-cloth and wipe very dry so that no drop of water is left to soak in and rot the fabric. After washing and drying, if a cloth is rung out of a dish of skim milk and water, and the oil-cloth is rubbed over with this, and then again well dried, the freshness and luster of the cloth will well repay the extra labor, and before or after putting down new ones, put on one or two coats of linseed-oil with a brush, and when thoroughly drj', add one or two coats of varnish. This makes the cloth softer and much more durable. Magic Furniture Polish. — Half pint alcohol, half ounce each resin and gum shellac, a few drops analine brown ; let stand over night and add three- fourths pint raw linseed oil and half pint spirits turpentine ; shake well before using. Apply with cotton flannel, and rub dry with another cloth. Another polish is one and a half ounces each alcohol and butter of antimony, one half ounce muriatic acid, eightounces linseed-oil, one half pint vinegar. 'Mix cold. This has been tried for twelve years and has been regularly sold for $10. Care of a Stove. — AVhere one is cramped for room ty use and no weeds or gi-asss will grow through them. To Soften Cistern- Water. — Cistern-water that hais become hard from long standing, can be softened by adding a little borax. To Destroy the Smell of Fresh Paint. — Sprinkle hay with water in which chloride of lime has been mixed, and place on floor. Parcels. — "When parcels are brought to the house, fold paper and put awaj* in drawer, and roll the string on a ball kept for the purpose. Ants and Insets. — Dissolve two poiuids alum in three quarts water. Ap- ply with a brush while hot to every crevice where vermin harbor. Silver-ivare when set away, keeps best wrapped in blue tissue paper ; or when put in a tight cupboard place a piece of camphor gum with it. Cement for China. — To a thick so}ution of gum arabic add enough plaster of paris to form a sticky paste ; apply with a l)rush, and stick edges together. Sheets. — "When sheets are beginning to wear in the middle, sew the salvage sides together and rip open the old seam, or tear in two and hem the sides. To Make Artificial Coral. — Melt together four parts yellow resin and one part vermilion. Dip twigs, cinders, or stones in this, and when dry they will look like coral. To Sew Carpet-rags on a Machine. — Make the stitch short, run it obliquely across the rags where the}' are to be joined, and sew a good many before cut- ting the thread. Mendinf]. — Never put away clean clothes without examining every piece to see if they are in any way out of order. Stocl»uigs, particularly, should be, carefully darned. To Destroy Weeds in Walks — Boil ten pounds stone-lime, five gallons water and oue pound flour of sulpliur, let settle, pour ofl" clean part, and sprinkle freely on the weedy walks. To Cleanse a Sponge. — By rubbing a fresh lemon thoroughly into a soured sponge and rinsing it several times in lukewarm water, it will become as sweet as when new. A Rnstic Frame. — A neat rustic frame for pictures may be made of cat-tail rods. Hide the corners where they are joined with ivy, or a vine made of leather leaves or handsome autumn leaves and the berries of bitter-sweet. To Mend Tin. — Scrape the tin about the hole free from greese and rust, rub on a piece of resin until a i)owder lies about the hole, over it lay a piece of solder, and hold on it a hot poker or soldering iron until it melts. Bad Smells. — Articles of clothing, or of any other character, which have become impregnated with bad-smelling substances, will be freed from them by burpng for a daj' or two in the ground. "Wrap up lightly before burying. To Temper Lamp Chi)>uieys — Lamp chimneys and glass-ware for hot water are made less liable to liraki' l)y jiuttiiig in cold water, bringing slowly to boiling point, boiling for an hour, and allowing to cool before removing from water. HOUSEKEEPING. 945 To Restore White Spots. — Oil, lard, or butter, rubbed on white spots on a dining table, caused by hot dishes or flat irons, will bring back their original color. This is sometimes good for spots on varnished articles whitened by dampness. To Hang Pictures. — The cheapest and best material with which to hang pictures is copper wire, of a size proportioned to the weight of the picture. When hung, the wire is scarcely visible, and its strength and durability is wonderful. Care of Slate Hearth. — These are preferable to marble, as thej^ are not so easily soiled. To wash them, use a clean cloth and warm water. Many oil them thoroughly when new with linseed oil ; thus prepared they never show grease spots. To Clean Hearths. — Soapstone or sandstone hearths are cleaned by wash- ing in pure water, then sprinkling with powdered marble or soapstone, and rubbing with a piece of the stone as large as a brick, and having at least one flat surface. Lightning Cream for Paint on Clothes. — Four ounces white castile soap, four of ammonia, two of ether, two of alcohol, one of glj^cerine ; cut the soap fine, dissolve in one quart of soft water over the fire, and when dissolved add the other ingredients. Lamp-wicks — To insure a good light, wicks must be changed often, as they soon become clogged, and do not permit the free passage of the oil. Soaking wicks in vinegar twenty-four hours before placing in lamjj insures a clear flame. Felt wicks are best. A Cheap Carpet. — Make a cover for the floor of the cheapest cotton cloth. Tack it down like a carpet, paper it as j'ou would a wall with paper resem- bling a carpet in figures, let it dry, varnish with two coats of varnish, and with reasonable usage it will last two years. To Make Rag Rugs. — Cut rags and sew hit and miss, or fancy striped as you choose ; use wooden needles, round, smooth, and pointed at one end, of any convenient length. The knitting is done back and forth (like old fashion- ed suspenders), always take ofl"the first stitch. ^lending Plaster of Paris. — Gum shellac makes an excellent strong cement for joining broken pieces together, and is more convenient than glue. The shellac should be flowed upon the surfaces to be joined, firmly pressed to- gether, and carefulh^ set away for about an hour. To Keep Ice Water. — Make a hat-shaped cover of two thicknesses of strong brown paper with cotton-batting quilted between, large enough to drop over and completely envelop the pitcher. This prevents the warm air from com- ing in contact with the pitcher, and the ice will last a long time. To Sweep a Rag Carpet. — Set a pail of water outside the door and dip the broom in it, shaking the water ofi", so there will be no wet streaks on the car- pet ; sweep but a small portion, and then dip the broom again ; in this way the dust is taken up in the broom, instead of being sent whirling through the air. Cement for Attaching Metal to Glass. — Mix two ounces of a thick solution of glue with one ounce of linseed oil varnish, and half an ounce of pure spirits of turpentime ; boil the whole together in a close vessel. After it has been applied to the glass and metal, clamp together for two or three days until dry To Imitate Old Oak. — To make oak paneling look like old oak, put some common soda into hot water, let the solution be very strong and sponge the 946 HOUSEKEEPING. oak over two or three times with it. "When it is quite dry rub with fine sand paper, as the soda raises the grain of the wood, and finish off with the best linseed oil. To Take Out Rusted Screws from Woodwork. — Apply heat to the liead of screw. A small bar or rod of iron, flat at the end, if reddened in the fire and applied for a couple or three miniites to the head of the rusted screw, renders its withdrawal as easy by the screw driver as if it was only a recenth' insert- ed screw. To Paste Paper on Tin. — Make a thin paste of gum-tragacanth and water, to which add a few drops of oil of vitriol. 3Iix a pound each of transparent glue and very strong vinegar, one quart alcohol, a small quantity of alum, and dissolve by means of a water bath. This is useful for uniting horn, pearl, shell and bone . Cane Chair Bottoms. — To clean and restore the elasticity of cane chair- bottoms, turn the chair bottom upward, and with hot water and a sponge wash the cane w^ork well, so that it is well soaked ; should it be dirty use soap, let it dry well in the air, and it will be tight and firm as new, provided none of the canes are broken. To Paint Houses. — Have them painted in the fall ; October or November is the best time for it. The wood does not absorb the oil so readily, and dur- ing the winter it hardens and forms a compact coating. When put on during the spring or summer the wood takes up the oil and leaves the paint dry and it will soon crumble and wash oflF. To Start a Fire in Damp, Still Weather. — Light a few bits of shavings or paper placed upon the top of the grate ; thus by the heated air's forcing itself into the chimney and establishing there an upward current, the room is kept free from the gas and smoke which is so apt to fill it, and the fire can then be lighted from below with good success. To Clear Cistern Water. — Add two ounces powdered alum and two ounces borax to a twenty l)arrel cistern of rain-water that is blackened or oily, and in a few hours the sediment will settle, and the water be clarified and fit for washing and even for cooking purposes, or to clear a small quantity use a teaspoon powdered alum to four gallons water. A Good Cement, for stopping holes in castings, covering screws or mend- ing broken potterv is made by taking equal parts of gum arable, plaster of l>aris and iron filings, with a little pulverized glass. This mixture forms a verv hard cement that will resist the action of fire and water. It should be kept dry and soffened with a little water when used. Dust from Carpets. — A good way to remove dust from a carpet is to fasten a damp cloth over the broom ; witli this the dust may be literally taken up. This will be found useful in the sick room, and also in any room where there are many small articles to catch dust. It brightens a carpet to wipe it off in this way even after the usual sweeping has been done. Putting Away Clothes.— Beiore putting away summer or winter clothes, mend, clean, brush, shake well, fold smoothly, sprinkle gum-camphor on every fold, and on the botton of trunks or closets (unless cedar chests are used"). Fine dresses, cloaks, etc., should be wrapped in towels or sheets by themselves, and placed in a tray or a separate apartment of the trunk. How to Wash Chamois Leather.— yiake a good, tepid suds with hard ur soft soap, put in leather, rub it on the wash-l>oard, put soap on skin and rub again on board, and wash in this way through one or two suds, or untd per- HOUSEKEEPING. 947 fectly clean ; rinse in tepid water without bluing, squeeze dry (do not wring), hang in sun and keep snapping and pulling it till perfectly dry. The leather will be as soft as new if the snapping and pulling are done thoroughly. To Clean Silver-ware Easily. — Save water in which potatoes have been boiled with a little salt, let it become sour, which it will do in a few days ; heat and wash the articles with a woolen cloth, rinsing in pure water, dry and polish with chamois leather. For wiping silver, an old linen table-cloth cut up in pieces of convenient size, hemmed, and marked "silver," is very nice. Economical Mats for use in front-doors, fire-places, bureus, stands, etc., may be made of coffee sacking, cut to any desired size, and worked in bright worsted or Germantown wool. Any simple pattern may be used or it may be entirely filled in with a plain green. The edges of the sacking may be fringed by raveling. To give it weight, line with an old piece of carpet or heavy cloth. A Good Cement. — For mending almost anything, may be made by mixing litharge and glycerine to the consistency of thick cream or fresh putty. This cement is useful for mending stone jars, stopping leakes in seams of tin-pans or wash-boilers, cracks and holes in iron kettles, fastening on lamp-tops; in all cases the article mended should not be used till the cement has hardened. This cement will resist the action of water, hot or cold, acids, and almost any degree of heat. To Preserve BooJcs. — Bindings may oe preserved from mildew by brush- ing them over with the spirits of wine. A few drops of any perfumed oil will secure libraries from the consuming effects of mold and damp. Russia leath- er which is perfumed with the tar of the birch-tree, never molds or sustains injury from damp. The Romans used oil of cedar to preserve valuable man- uscripts. Russia-leather covered books, placed in a stationer's window, will destroy flies and other insects. Badly Fitting Doors. — When blinds and doors do not close snugly, but leave cracks through which drafts enter, the simplest remedy is this : Place a strip of putty all along the jambs, cover the edge of the blind or door with chalk, and shut it. The putty will then fill all spaces which would remain open and be pressed out where it is not needed, while the excess is easily re- moved with a knife. The chalk rubbed on the edges prevents adhesion, and the putty is left in j^lace, where it soon dries and leaves a perfectly fitting jamb. Cellar Floor. — A cellar floor may be cemented as follows : Level the sur- face very carefully, without making any hollows that will require filling, oth- erwise the surface should be beaten hard and rammed. Then cover the floor with two inches of broken stone and cement mortar, and beat this down thoroughly, making a smooth surface with a trowel. Finally put on a surface coat of half an inch of clear cement (Portland is best) and water, rub smooth with a mason's float. If troubled with rats strew lime and coperas over floor. Finish for Room. — A room with plain white walls is finished beautifully by placing a black walnut (or the same wood with which the room is finished) molding around the rouni where the border of paper is usually placed, at the junction of wall and ceilJng, or when live room is papered or frescoed place it at bottom of the bnrder or frieze. The molding fini^^hed in oil, costs from one to five cents a foot, and is easily put up. The ujtper edge should be rounded, and a space of a quarter inch left between it and ceiling. To hang pictures buy an S hook, sold at all hardware stores, ] tice one hook over the moulding, hang the picture cord on the other, and slip to the right or left to the desired position. This saves the wall from injury from picture-hooks. 948 HOUSEKEEPING. Perpetual Paste. — Dissolve a teaspoon of alum in a quart of water. AVhen cold, stir in as much flour as will give it the consistency of thick cream, being particular to boat lip all the lumps ; stir in as much powdered resin as will laj' on a five cent piece, and throw in half a dozen cloves to give it a i)leasant odor. Have on the fire a tea-cup of boiling water, pour the flour mixture in- to it, stirring well at the time. In a few minutes it will be of the consistency of mush, Poiu- it into an earthen vessel, let it cool, lay a cover on, and put in a cool place. AVhen needed for use, take out a portion and soften it with warm water. Paste made in this way will last a year. It is better than gum, as it does not gloss the paper. Indelible Ink. — Two drams lunar caustic, six ounces distilled or rain- water ; dissolve, and add two drams gum-water. AVet the linen with the fol- lowing preparation : Dissolve one-half an ounce prepared natron, four ounces water, add half ounce gum-water, (recipe below) ; after smooting it with a warm iron, write with the ink, using a gold, a quill, or anew steel pen. The writing must be exposed to a hot sun for twelve hours ; do not wash for one week, then be particulartogetout the stain which the preparation will make. If this is followed in every particular, there need be no failure. Gum-water for the above is composed of two drams gum-arabic to four ounces water. One teaspoon makes two drams, two tablespoons make one ounce. If at anytime the ink becomes too pale add a little of pure lunar caustic. Never write without using the preparation, as it will rot the cloth. Farmer's Door Mat. — Every doorstep should be proAdded with a foot- scraper and a brush or broom, and every one, as he comes in, should take the time to use them before appearing on the carpet or clean floor. If a regular scraper — one made for the purpose — is not at hand, one can make one from a bit of hoop-iron, which is to be placed on a step or edge of the porch in a convenient place. It is well to provide a "mud-mat," which is simply strips an inch or so square — fence pickets will answer — screM'cd to three or four cross-pieces an inch apart, or a more elaborate one can be made by stringing the slats upon fence wires. One Avith muddy boots is very apt to stamp and rub them on the steps or floor of the porch ; a mud-mat will clean them off more eff(;ctually, and save the porch hard wear. A very excellent mat may be made by boring holes in a boai'd, and drawing corn husks through the holes. Careful persons change their foot-gear when they enter the house to remain any length of time — a custom conducive not only to neatness, but so greatly to comfort, that it is to be commended. Moving . — When about to move to another house, begin packing two weeks beforehand. Carefully packing small and fragile articles in boxes and barrels. In this way, china and glassware, and fragile ornaments may be stowed away Avith odd articles of clothing, bedding, etc. Books should be packed in box- es, or Avrapped several in a package, in several thicknesses of newspaper, and tied with strong twine. They can thus be transported with very little hand- ling. Larger pictures should be taken down and tied in couples, face to face, with rolls of soft paper between the corners to prevent rubbing. Small pic- tures may be packed with clothing in bureau drawers and trunks. Take up carpets last. When about ready to move, select one room up-stairs into which remove everything possi])le from the other rooms, and another below for the same purpose. If the occupants of the house into which you are to move will do the same, you can easily make some rooms there ready for occupancy. Of course each room must be swept down and scrubbed. As soon as the floors are dry, carpets may be put down in the more important rooms, and the fur- niture moved in. On the day the transfer is made, see that coal or fuel is provided, so that a fire may be started, and take along a basket, with match- es, towels, napking, knives and forks, sugar, tea, bread and other materials HOUSEKEEPING. 949 for lunching. With all the caution you can exercise, you wfll find Franklin's old saying true, that "three removes are as bad as a fire." Houses that have been empty may become fever breeders when they come to be re-occupied. An English sanitary oflicer alleges that he has observed typhoid, diphtheria, or orther zymotic afi"ections to arise under these circumstances. The cause is supposed to be in the disuse of the cisterns, pipes and drains, the process of putrefaction going on in the impure air in them, and unobstructed access of this air into the house, while the closure of windows and doors effectually shuts out fresh air. Persons moving from the city to their country homes in the summer, should see that the drains and pipes are in perfect order, that cellars and closets are cleared of rubbish, and the whole house thoroughly aired before occupying. Copperas used freely in the cellar is a good and cheap disinfectant. Labor-saviag Contrivances. — Every good housewife has neatly arranged cupboard and dish closet. Everything has its appropriate shelf and division. But there are other things for which provision should be made. A pile of books is sometimes seen in one part of a dining-room, a few newspapers in another, and a pair of shoes in a third. The inside of a closet is sometimes a mass of confusion — "a place for everything," and everything thrown pro- miscuously into it. Half a dozen garments are hung upon one nail, to crowd each other out of shape ; others are thrown upon the floor amid heaps of boots and shoes. And so on to the end of the chapter of carelessness and slovenly disorder. There is no excuse for such carelessness, and no satisfaction in such housekeeping. Want of time is no excuse, for such want of system and order is the cause of the most prodigal waste of time. It is only necessary to use the brain a little to save the hands. Systematic habits, doing every thing well, and the hundred little contrivances which will suggest themselves to every neat and ingenuous housekeeper, will save time, and establish order and cleanliness. Have shelves in the closet, and regular rows of hooks, and plenty of them ; let one side be appropriated to one kind of clothing, with a hook for each article If necessary to preserve the order, make a neat label, and paste over each hook. Make Shoe-pockets (these pockets are made of about two and a half yards of calico ; one yard of which makes the back, to be tacked to the door when done. Split the remaining yard and a half in two, lengthwise, and, placing the strips about one inch apart, make, across the back, three rows of pockets, by stitching first the ends of the strips to the sides of the back, and then gather the bottom of each strip to fit the back ; then separate each strip into two, three, or four pockets, according to the use for which they are designed, and fasten by stitching a narrow "piping" of calico, from top to bottom of the back, between the poc- kets. Ail the work may be done on a machine. A border of leather, stitched on the edges of the back, and a narrow strip used instead of the calico "pip- ing," make whole much stronger) on the inside of the doors, and never put any thing on the closet floor, where it will be trodden upon in entering for other articles. Never stufl" anything away out of sight in haste and disorder. Hiding dirtiness does not cure it. Those who write many letters should have a case, with "pigeon holes" labeled and arranged alphabetically — a box for three or four letters is sufficient — in which to keep them, with one compart- ment for unanswered letters. When the case becomes crowded, or at the end of the year, wrap in packages, and label with letter and the year. News- papers and magazines, when preserved, should be neatly filed in order and laid away, or sent away for binding. The Work-basket, which is in daily use, is often a spectacle for gods and men — the very picture of confusion and dis- order. When it can be afforded, one of the new ladies' adjustable work-tables, of which several admirable styles are made and widely advertised, will be found a great convenience, especially where there are children — whose little 950 HOUSEKEEPING. fingers delight in tumbling the contents of the basket. If a basket is used, it should be divided into compartments. A circular basket, with divisions about the edge for smaller articles, and larger spaces in the center, is con- venient, and easily kept in order. All these, and hundreds of other devices like them, are labor-savers, which relieve housekeeping of a large share of its burdens. And a calculation of the time spent every year in hunting through closets for lost overshoes or slippers, or in cleaning up the scattered items in the sitting-room when company is coming in, and searching for missing let- ters among a miscellaneous pile thrown into a drawer, will give a startling result, and convey some adequate idea of the real money and time-value of that love of neatness and order which is one of the cardinal virtues in women. HOrSEKEEPERS ALPHABET. Apples — Keep in dry place, as cool as possible without freezing. Brooms — Hang in the cellar-way to keep soft and pliant. Cranberries — Keep under water, in cellar, change water monthly. Dish of hot water set in oven prevents cakes, etc., from scorching. Economize time, health, and means, and you will never beg. Flour — Keep cool, dry and securely covered. Glass — Clean with a quart of water mixed with table-spoon of ammonia. Herbs — Gather when beginning to blossom ; keep in paper sacks. Ink Stains — AVet with spirits turpentine, after three hours rub well. Jars — To prevent, coax "husband" to buy "Buckeye Cookery." Keep an account of all supplies, with cost and date when purchased Love lightens labor. Money — Count carefully when j'ou receive change. Nutmegs — Prick with a pin, and if good, oil will run out. Orange and Lemon Peel — Dry, pound, and keep in corked bottle. Parsnips — Keep in ground until spring. Quicksilver and white of an egg destroy bedbugs. EiCE — Select large, with a clear fresh look ; old rice may have insects. SuciAR — For general family use, the fine granulated is best. Tea — Equal parts of Japan and green are as good as English breakfast. L^^SE a cement made of ashes, salt, and water for cracks in stove. Variety is the best culinary spice. Watch your back yard for dirt and bones. Xantippe was a scold. Don't imitate her. Youth is best preserved by a cheerful temper. Zinc-lined sinks are better than wooden ones. & regulate your clock by your husband's watch, and in all apportion- ments of time remember the Giver. THE DINING-ROOM. &51 THE DINING^-ROOM. It may not be amiss to give a page or two to the observance of formal dinijers in "society," lest some reader — who may hope, if she becomes the rare housekeeper we expect, to be called to give such dinners as the wife of a Congressman, Governor, or even as mistress of the White House itself — should be taken unawares. In every house, great or small, the Dining Room should be as bright, cheerful and cosey as possible, and at the table the mis- tress should wear her brightest smile. If there are trials and troubles, do not bring them to the table. They impair digestion, and send husband and children out to business or school, glum or gloomy, instead of refreshed and strengthened. The plainest room may be made beautiful by taste, and the homeliest fare appetizing by neatness and skill. Little attentions to decora- tion or pretty arrangement of the table charm the eye and whet the appetite, and make the home table powerfully attractive. The every-day observance of sensible and simple table manners ought always to be encouraged, because, in the long run, it j)romotes the comfort and the cultivation of the family, and takes the pain of embarasssment out of state occasions. Above all, the room, the table and its furniture should be scrupulously neat and orderly. For formal dinners, a round table, five to seven feet in diameter, is the best fitted to display the dinner and its fine wares ; but the extension table, about four feet wide and any length desired, is generally used . At the round table, conversation is, of course, easily made general, the party being small. The table cloth must be spotless, and Under-cover of white felt, flannel or baiie gives the linen a heavier and finer appearance. A center-piece of floweirs is a pretty ornament (some even place upon the table a handsome vase filled with growing plants in bloom, or a common flower pot may be thus used, covering with a crocheted cover of green zepher made to slip up over the crock and tie at the top with cord and tassel. These are very convenient and pretty.) but the flowers must be few and rare, and of delicate odors. Fruit 952 THE DINING-ROOM. in variety and tastefully arranged with green leaves, and surrounded with choice dessert-dishes, is always attractive and elegant. It is also a pretty custom to place a little bouquet by the side of each lady's plate, and to fold a bunch of three or four flowers in the napkin of each gentleman, to be at- tached to the left lapel of the coat as soon as seats are taken at the table. Na])kins, which should never be starched, are folded and laid on the plates, with a small piece of bread or a cold roll jdaced on the top, or half concealed by the last fold. Beside each plate are placed as many knivt-s, forks and spoons as will be needed in all the courses Cunless the lady prefers to have them brought with each new plate, which makes more work and confusion), and a glass, to be filled with fresh water just before dinner is announced. The plates which will be needed are counted out. Such as are to be filled with ready-])repared dessert-dishes are filled and set in a convenient place. Dish- es that need to be warm, not hot, are left on the top shelf of the range or else- where where they will be kept Avarm until needed. When the soup-tureen (with the soup at the boilingpoint) and the soup-plates are placed before the seat of the hostess, dinner may be quietly announced. The host or hostess, has of course previously, indicated to each gentleman the lady with whose escort he is charged, the guest of honor, if a gentleman, escorting the hostess, and taking a seat at her right; if a lady, being escorted by the host to a seat at his right. Each gentleman offers the lady assigned to him his right arm, and escorts her to a seat at his left, passing her in front of him to her chair which he has gracefully drawn back. The distribution of seats will tax the tact of the hostess, as the moment of waiting to be assigned to place is extremely awkward. Of course, all should have been decided on beforehand, and the places should be designated with as little confusion as possible. Tlie success of the dinner will depend largely upon the grouping of agreeable persons. The host leads the way to the dining room, the hostess follows last, and all guests stand until she is seated. (In France, and at large dinner parties in this country, a card with the name of each guest is placed on the plate which is intended for him.) Once seated the rest is simply routine. Ease of manner of the host and hostes, and quiet and systematic movements of attendants, who should be well trained, alert and noisless, but never in a hurry, are in- dispensable. Any betra\'al of anxiety or embarrassmeiat on the part of the former, or blundering by the latter, is a wet blanket to all enjoyment. The attendant places each dish in succession before the host or hostess (the soup, salad and dessert only being served by the hostess) with the pile of plates. Each plate is supplied, taken by the attendant on a small salver, and set before the guest from the left. Any second dish which belongs to the course is presented at the left of the guest, who helps himself. As a rule the lady at the right of the host, or the oldest lady, should be served first. As soon as one has finished, his plate is promptlj* removed, and when all are done, the next course is served in the same way. Before the dessert is brought on, all crumbs should be brushed from the cloth. The finger-bowls, which are brought in on the napkin on the dessert-plate and setoff to the left of the THE DINING-ROOM. 953 plate, are used by dipping the fingers in lightly and drying them on the nap- kin. They should be half full of warm water with a bit of lemon floating in it. When all have finished dessert, the hostess gives the signal that dinner is ended by pushing back her chair, and the ladies repair to the drawing- room, the oldest leading and the youngest following last, and the gentlemen repairing to the library or smoking room. In about half an hour, tea is served in the drawing-room with a cake-basket of crackers or little cakes, the gentle- men join the ladies, and after a little chat over their cups, all are at liberty to take leave. It is, of course, i^resuj^posed that the host carves, and carves well. If he does not he should forego the pleasure of inviting his friends to dinner, or the dinner should be from chops, ribs, or birds which do not require carving. In making up a dinner party, it is all important to know who will accept ; and invitations, which may be written or printed, and should be sent by mes- senger and never mailed to i)ersons in the same town, should receive a prompt reply, a day's delay being the extreme limit. The simplest foi'm of invita- tion and reply is best, but both must be formal, this being one of the occasions on which the wings of genius must be promptly clipped. Ten minutes be- yond the appointed time, is the utmost limit of tardiness admissable in a guest, and ten minutes early are quite enough. THE HOST AND HOSTESS. Those who entertain should remember it is vulgar hospitality, exceed- ingly annoying to guests, to overload plates, or to insist on a second supply. If a guest wants more, he knows that it is a delicate compliment to a dish to pass his plate the second time. Too great a variety of dishes is also a coarse display. A few cooked to a nicety and served with grace, make the most charming dinners. A sensible bill of fare is soup, fish with one vegetable, a roast with one or two vegetables and a salad and cheese, and a dessert. Par- ties should be made up of congenial persons, and the table should never be crowded, i^ovel dishes are great strokes of policy in dinners, but no wise housewife will try experiments on new dishes on such an occasion. The carv- er should serve meat as he cuts it, so far as possible, and not fill the platter with hacked fragments. It is ill-bred to help too abundantly, or to flood food with gravies, which are disliked by many. Above all, the plate should be served neatly. Nothing creates such disgust as a plate bedaubed with gravy or scattered food. It may be taken for granted that every one will take a piece of the breast ; and after this is served, it is proper to ask, "What part do you prefer ?" The wings and legs should be placed crisp side uppermost, the stuffing should not be scattered, and the brown side or edge of slice should be kept from contact with vegetables or gravy, so that its delicacy may be preserved. Water should be poured at the right hand. Every thing else is served at the left. The hostess should continue eating until all guests have finished. Individual salt-dishes are used at breakfast, but not at dinner— a 954 THE DINING-ROOM. cruet, with salt dish and spoon, at each end of the table, being preferred as giving the table less of a hotel air. The salt dishes should be neatly filled. Jellies and sauces are helped on the dinner plate and not on side dishes. If there are two dishes of dessert, the host maj'- serve the most substantial one. Fruit is served after puddings and pies, and coffee last. In pouring coffee, the sugar and cream is placed in the cup first. If milk is used, it should be scalding hot. Some prefer to make coffee strong, then weaken it with scald- ing hot milk, and pour into cups in M'hich cream and sugar have prcA'iously been placed. For tea it is better to pour first and then add cream and sugar, In winter plates should be warmed, not made hot. INDIVIDUAL MANNERS. Manners, at table and elsewhere, are made for the convenience and com- fort of men, and all social observances have now, or have had at some time, a good reason and sound common sense behind them. It must be remem- bered, however, that the source of all good manners is a nice perception of, and kind consideration for, not only the rights, but the feelings and even the whims of others. The customs of society are adoptod and observed to enable us to be more agreeable, or at least not disagreeable, to friends. And nowhere is the distinction between the gentleman and the boor more marked tlian at the table. Some persons are morbidly sensitive, and even slight improprie- ties create disgust ; and everj' true gentleman is bound to respect their sensi- tiveness and avoid giving pain, whether in sympathy with the feeling or not. As this is not an etiquette book, we can only give a few hints. Once seated at table, gloves are drawn off and laid in the lap under the napkin, which is spread lightly, not tucked in. Raw oysters are eaten with a fork ; sonp from tlie side of a spoon without noise, or tipping the plate. The mouth should not go to the food, but food to the mouth. Eat without noise and with the lips closed. Friends Avill not care to see how you masticate your food, unless they are of a very investigating turn of mind. Bread should be broken, not cut, and should be eaten by morsels, and not broken into soup or gra^y. It is in bad taste to mix food on the plate. Fish must be eaten with the fork. Macaroni is cut and cheese crumbed on the plate, and eaten with a fork. Pastry should be broken and eaten with a fork, never cut with a knife. Game and chicken are cut, but never eaten with the bones held in the fingers. Or- anges are peeled with out breaking the inner skin, being held meantime on a fork. Pears are pared while held by the stem. Cherry-stones, or other sub- stances which are to be removed from the mouth, are passed to the napkin held to the lips, and then returned to the plate. Salt must be left on the side of the plate, and never on the table cloth. Cut with the knife, but never put it in the mouth ; the fork must convey the food, and maybe held in either hand as convenient. (Of course, when the old-fashioned two-tined fork is used, it would be absurd to practice this rule.) Food that cannot be held with a fork should be eaten with a spoon. Never help yourself to butter or any other THE DINING-ROOM. 955 food with your own knife or fork. Never pick your teeth at table, or make any sound with tlie mouth in eating. Bread eaten with meat should not be buttered. Bread and butter is a dish for dessert. Eat slowly for both health and manners. Do not lean your arms on the table, or sit too far back, or lounge. Pay as little attention as possible to accidents. When asked "what do you prefer?" name some part at once. When done, lay your knife and fork side by side on the plate, with handles to the right. When you rise from your chair leave it where it stands. Of course, loud talking or boisterous conduct is entirely out of place at table, where each should appear at his best, practicing all he can of the amenities of life, and observing all he knows of the forms of good society. BRBAKFAST PARTIES. Breakfast parties are becoming fashionable in cities, because less formal and expensive than dinners, and quite as agreeable to guests. The coui-ses, which are usually fewer in number, are served preciselj^as described for din- ners. Oatmeal porridge is a favorite and healthful first course, and oranges, melons, and all fruits are delicious breakfast dishes. The variety of omelets is also a great resource, and hundreds of other delicacies and substantials are described elsewhere. But in breakfast — and the same is true of dinners — it is better to have a few, a very few, dishes delicately and carefully cooked, than to attempt more and have them less perfect. In fact the trouble often lies in attempting too many, and the consequent hurry in the kitchen. At breakfast, the cofi'ee is set before the mistress, with cups in their saucers in front of it, in one or two rows. The meat with plates is set before the mas- ter. For an ordinary table one castor in the center is sufficient. Fruit is served first ; then oatmeal or cracked wheat, next meat and vegetables, fol- lowed by hot cakes and cofi'ee. Meats are covered, and cakes are brought in between two plates. Butter is put on in small pats with lumps of ice about it. Honey or maple syruj), for cakes or hot biscuits, is served in saucers. A bi'eakfast-table may be spread attractively with a white cloth, and a scarlet and white napkin under each plate, with white table-mats with a scarlet border. For evening parties, it is often less expense and trouble to place supper in the hands of a regular confectioner, but for small card or literary parties the trouble need not be great. For regular reception evenings, ices, cakes and chocolate are enough. In cases where no "help" is employed it is better to have some one of the family wait upon the table, the daughters taking turns in serving, as the pleasure of the meal is greatly marred by two or three persons jumping up every now and then, for articles needed. TABLE OUTFIT. In the selection of table wares, there is a wide field for the exercise of taste, and thos§ whose purses permit, need not be at a loss to find the most 956 THE DINING-ROOM. elegant and artistic designs. An admirable table outfit is an elegant dessert set, all the pieces of which, except the plates, may decorate the table during the whole dinner, and the rest of white and gilt china. Some have table- ware decorated to match the colors of the dining-room, or sets of different patterns for each course, or harlequin sets in which each piece may be of dif- ferent pattern or even of different ware. Chinese and Japanese sets are also fashionable. In every case, ware should be the best of its kind, and for econ- omy's sake should be plain, so that broken pieces may be readily and cheap- ly replaced. Light knives and forks, heavy tea-spoons, and thin glasses for ■water are most elegant. Tlie chairs should have no arms to interfere with ladies' dresses, and to prevent noise the legs should be tipped with rubber. CLEAKING THE TABLE. Gather up the fragments that nothing be lost or wasted. When each meal is over, if you do not have a crumb-cloth under the table, which when the chairs are removed, can be lifted carefully at the edges and the crumbs shak- en into the center, it is best to take a broom and sweep the crumbs lightly imder the table until the dishes and victuals are removed, then brush on a dust pan. To clear the table, bring in a dish-pan, gather up all the silver, cups and saucers, butter and sauce plates, and glassware, carry to the kitcli- en, place them in the sink and return Avith the pan. Scrape the plates as clean as possible and put in, odd platters and vegetable dishes, saving all the remnants of food that are to be kept, on smaller dishes, to be taken to the cellar or refrigerator. To wash the dishes have clear hot water in the pan, and first wash the silver without soap or cloth, using only the hands ; if any are greasy, wipe with a soft paper before putting in the water, (or with a crust of bread and keep it for food for any animal or poultry), rinse in clear hot water and wipe off immediately on a perfectly dry, soft, clean toAvel ; in this wav the silver is kept bright, and does not get scratched. Add some soap in the water, make a suds, wash the glassware, rinse and wipe dry. ^Texttake the cups and saucers and so on, leaving those most greasy till the last. Al- ways keep a clean dish-cloth. One lady writes, "I have smelled a whole houseful of typhoid fever in one sour, dirty dish-rag." Many prefer the use of three dish-cloths, one for the nicest articles, one for the greasy dishes, and one for the pots and kettles, keeping each cloth perfectly sweet and clean, and after using, washing, rinsing, and hanging to dry on a small rack kept for this purpose. Tlie towel for wiping dislies may also dry here. A dish mop or swab for washing small deep articles is convenient. Let no one suppose that because she lives in a small house, and dines on homely fare, that the general principles here laid down do not apply to her. A small house is more easily kept clean than a palace ; taste may be quite as well displayed in the arrangement of dishes on a pine table as in grouping the silver and china of the rich. Skill in cooking is as readily shown in a baked potatoe or a johnny-cake as in a canvas-back duck. The charm of good house- THE DINING-ROOM. 957 keeping lies in a nice attention to little things, not in superabundance. A dirty kitchen and bad cooking have driven many a husband and son, and many a daughter too, from a home tliat should have been a refuge from tenlj)- tation. "Bad dinners go hand in hand with total depravitu ; while a proper- ly fed man is already half saved." GARNISHES. Garnishes should be used as freely as possible in the different dishes, making the latter inviting to the eye as well as to the palate. Mutton cutlets, for instance, neatly arranged upon the same dish with green pease or toma- toes, appear far more attractive than when dished apart from the vegetables. Fish, cold meats, fowls, etc., can be charmingly decorated with sprigs of par" sley, chopped carrots, and such-like trifles. A shape of blanc-mange in a glass dish, surrounded by crimson preserves looks doubly tempting. A roast of beef sur- rounded, as illustrat- ed^ with fiov/rets of cooked califlower al- ternated with slices of red beet makes a handsome dish, and the varity of garnishes are as many as the in- genuity of the cook Roast of Beef. may devise. Some of the most common for small game are dried toasted bread, slices of lemon, parsley and cm-rant jelly ; for larger game, such as wild duck, etc., cranberry sauce, apple sauce, sliced lemons or oranges and parsley, and for a goose, nothing is nicer than baked apples. For prairie chicken, an easily prepared and palatable garnish is slices of fried salt pork. It is cooked with the chicken instead of butter or lard, thus giving the latter a delicious flaver, while the pork is also flavored with the chicken ; when served a slice of jiork accompanies a piece of chicken. One should not fail to try this dish, as they will find the frying With Salt Pork to be quite an addition. A nice garnish for Charlotte Russe or any other cream, is to take part of an inch-thick sheet of sponge cake and ice with Caj)e May Icing made as follows ; to the beaten yolk and wliite of one egg, add cup powdered sugar, beatinf well together ; melt in pan over teakettle two or tliree squares Bak- er's chocolate according to strength of flavor liked, add this to above and when well mixed, stir in a tablespoon boiling milk. Spread at once ; when stiff cut cake in small squares, diamonds or any shape wished and surround the cream with them. When serving place one or two squares on eacTi dish. Or cover the cake with with the French Icing, page 418, and over it spread the above, or a Chocolate Icing, page 416, or either of the Chocolate Caramel Icings, page 417; then cut and garnish as above. This latter is called the 958 THE DINING-ROOM. Duplex Icing and either it or the Cape May are delicious for large cakes^ or layer cakes. For more complete directions of different garnishes Bet- Garnishes and Sauces, page 975. TABLE DECORATIONS. The candlesticks, or lamps, dislies, glass, and other necessary articles of the table mav be placed in line and (litlerent positions down the center of the tal)le, for a full course six-o'clock dinner. Always study what will look well in plate, china and glass in combination with flowers. Good taste must be used on this point to avoid bad combinalions of color. Huge pieces of pUite, set on the tal)le merely for show, often destroy the general effect of the whole table. They would look far better placed on the side- board on a velvet covered dresser. China figures, either to hold flowers or as works of art, always look well, and when flowers are scarce are a great assistance, as a few flowers can then be arranged so as to give the color and life wanted. In the hot days of summer, ice in the form of pyramids cut out in handsome shapes, as ice palaces and different designs, are sometimes iu- troiluced to give coolness and freshness to the dinner-table. Tlie pyramid ma_v be surrounded by fern-leaves, cut flowers, and sometimes it is placed on a large (mirror) glass plaque, and with tiie light reflected from that mir- ror on to the ice, a brilliant effect is produced. Much caution as to providing drainage must be used, as the melted water is apt to overflow on the table- cloth. " A pretty arrangment for a table of twelve or fourteen are flowers in a narrow crystal tray, arranged in form of a St. Andrew's cross, placed in cen- ter of table," gilt candlesticks at each end, and down through the centre, lengthwise of the table, a wide strip ot red plush trimmed on its edges Avith smilax and cut flowers, and at the four corners of table, semi-circular trays fllled witli the same flowers ; or in hunting season, a gilt ornament of hunt- ers and dogs standing by tree, top of tree filled with fruits and flowers, gilt candlesticks each side of this centre, with smihix running from centre to each corner and looped all around the cloth ; china ornament at the head of table, camp fire and colore ^^hire sance. i For dessert or fancy pieces. 9- gjj,-n -"^v^Sr";"^' Vved. fonr decanters'^^onUiVlng the different k.nds shonjd feed nelr the gUss of waiter (see diagramj at Ike pUte oi .ach guest. ! 00 DINNER— DESSERT. FIFTH COURSE. 1. Cake. 5. Nuts. 2. Jelly. 6. Raisins. 3. Sugar. 7. Bon bons and confectionery. 4. Cup custard. 8. Fruit. — . }3. Crystallized fruits. 14. Here might be puddings to be handed round from the table. Center figure to be flowers or sugar oraameni or pyramid. 9. Pastry. 10. Spoons. 11. Nut Crackers. 12. Blanc Mauv-.c. 1. Soft shell crabs. 2. I'rMzcn peaches or fruits. 3. Pickles. 4. Cruet. 5. Jce cream. 6. Koast lanih Sr.MMEK LLWCli. FOR SCOVKHS. 7. Brown bread. s. White bread. 9. Cakes. 10. Candies. 11. Fancy biscuit. 12. Cliocolate bon bons. la the center— llowcrs. 13.-1 II. I Friit or what else 15. ( you may choose. 16. J 17. Green pease. 18. Fried Kgg plant. 1. Vegetable salad. 2. Preserved fruit, fruit jelly, etc. 8. Oyster salad. 4. Potato puflFs, 6. Small fancy cakes. 6. Cruet. 7. Bon bons. 8. Baked Sweet potatoes. ». Breaa. WINTER LUNCH. FOB S COVERS. 10. Brown bread. 11. M acaroui with tomato sauce. 12. .Nucs. 13. Pickles. 14. Preserved fruits. 15. Charlotte russe. 16. Cabinet pudding with cream sauo©. 17. Preserved fruit, fruit jelly, ete. 18. Braised beef. EUoweis in the center. 972 DINING-ROOM DOTS. DlNINa-ROOM DOTS. Fancy Wood Table ilfats.— There are three sizes of table mats, made of stripes of light and dark wood, alternating, and fastened to strong felt cloth. When not in use they may be rolled up into a very small compass. The wood is very highly polished, and the effect is very pretty. They are very cheap, durable and decidedly ornamental. Place for Extension Leaves. — In arranging a sink in the butler's pantry or cnina closet, the bottom part of it may be utilized for the leaves from an ex- tension table, thus saving room and having them easy of access also. Crumb Brush and Pan. — The cut repre- sents a very neat and convenient crumb brush and pan for cleaning the table of crumbs after each course. A neat table is one of the accompaniments of a good dinner, and the debris of one course should be re- moved before the next makes its appear- ance. The curved form of the brush makes it easy to gather up the crumbs and sweep them into the pan. Closets for Bread and Cake Box. — Under the serving board placed at side of china closet a nice cupboard may be made for the bread and cake box, and with the small board used for cutting bread etc., placed on top of the box , I, - - ,,-■ I— r^g^ ^^^ ^^® bread knife in a little drawer un- ^ ^^niinBdltjiliiSl lBjBI^^^^HIplL d^i* the board, either bread or cake can ^^'" ' ^1^^^^^^^^^^ be served very easily. Knife and Spoon Box. — Knives and spoons ought to be daily counted and put away in box kept for the purpose. The cut represents a strong box, made of tin japanned on the out- side, an apartment on one side for knives and forks and on the other for spoons. The lids fit closely and are held in place by a hasp. This in- sures their keeping dry and free from dust, a matter of considerable import- ance to the tidy housewife. A Convenient Crumb Cloth. — An easy way of having a crumb cloth is to take two widths of the wide heavy striped linen, work button holes on one side of the width, and place buttons on one side of the other width to corres- DINING-ROOM DOTS. 973 pond with the holes ; then the widths can be phxced under the table one at a time and buttoned down the center. Made in this way one can easily handle it alone, lifting one leg of the table and slipping the width under and so on, making it unnecessary to lift whole ta])le at once ; or a chith can be made in shape of a hollow square and buttoned on one corner and slip in in same way. DisJi Warmer — This engraA'- ing represents a dish-warmer made of wire with feet so arrang- ed that it may be set on a stove. iSothing spoils a good breakfast or dinner so effectually as cold plates, but when placed in the oven to heat they are very likely to be left too long, and get too hn't or if fine wares, are ruined by overiaeating. With this heateV there is no danger of over heating, or injury. This may also be used as a dish drainer, and is equal to the best made especially for the purpose. Tea-table Ornament. — Two goblets, or any pretty glass dishes, heaped with lumps of ice, with a border of geranium or anj' green leaves, make a nice decoration for the ends of tlie table. Inexpensive Napkin Rings. — Cut piece of canvas size of napkin ring, only larger, so that when stitched together one end may overlap the other, and be cut in points or scollops. Work canvas with beads, worsted or silk, as fancy may dictate, leaving space for first name or initials. Line canvas with silk-coveretl cardboard and bind edges with bright ribbon to harmonize with embroidery. Paper Cases. — These are verj^ much used now for Cheese Ramakins. Bis. cuit Glaces, Charlottes, Souffles, Ice-creams, etc., and are either round or square. Make the round ones as follows : Procure half a dozen sheets of cap or fine book paper not ruled, and make a pattern for the paper cases by fitting a band of paper to the outside of a very small tumbler, such as is used for Roman punch, or some similar small shape. The band of paper, when cut to fit, will form a curve. Cut as many such pieces as are needed from the sheets, fringe a quarter of an inch or less in depth. Make some corn starch paste very stifl", and paste the ends of the bands togeth- er, forming cup shapes, then cut around the edges, press the fringed bottom edges of the cup on the paste, the fringe bent outward, and the cups, when dry, are ready for use. For the square ones cut paper on the eight dark lines, then crease on every dotted line. At each end turn parts lettered A over that lettered B, so that the lines c rest on the line d, and one A overlaps the other. Now fold parts b up against backs of part A, and fold inward those parts of edges which are lightly shaded, and fold outward those which are heavily shaded. When this is finished square paper cases stick the parts of the box together with white of an egg mixed with a little f.our. This makes a perfect box, and with a little practice one may become quite an adept. By tracing a copy of diagram one obtains a good model one quarter of size case should be. Bustless Side-board. — Where one does not care for any fancy display of silverware and china, the best arrangement for a side-board is one built in 974 DINING-ROOM DOTS. Bide of dining room, with the upper part divided oflf into divisions, some with shelves and some without according to the height of articles to be put away, and each enclosed with a glass door. In this way the silver makes a pretty ornament for the room and yet is protected from dust. The hack of divisions, or little cupboards, maybe lined with canton flannel of anv color desired. The lower part of sideboard will be utilized for the china, liaving little cupboards with shelves according to heighth of dishes, and wooden doors. Between upper and lower cupboard can be drawers for the small sil- ver, and it is nice for spoons, knives and forks that do not come in boxes to have some of the drawers made as a Handy Drawer in the following manner ; have them two and a half or three inches deep and about a foot and a half wide ; cut a heavy pasteboard to fit inside and on it glue wooden strips made as in boughten boxes with grooves for the two ends of knives to fit in, also a single strip for table spoons, forks, etc., having in one drawer two strips for knives and one for teaspoons ; in another two single strips for tablespoons ; in another two for forks, etc. Cut a piece of colored canton flannel, allowing for the amount that will be taken up, when fitted into the grooves, and place over the pasteboard, having first covered the wooden strips with glue, then press the flannel well into each groove and place the article intended for each place in it, letting it remain there till it ts drv. Proceed in this way till all are fiaisbed and when dry put them in their 'places. GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 975 G-ARNISHES AND SAUCES. To garnish a dish well, adds very much to its appearance and the most simple dish can be made to appear much more appetizing when served, if surrounded by bits of parsley, or other green, or slices of eggs, pickles or vegetables. The time taken to garnish is only a moment or two if the gar- nish be a simple one, which should be the kind to use for every day, and one will be well repaid for so doing. Of course a more elaborate garnish takes longer time in its preparation. Care must always be exercised in regard to the quantity used, as a too heavj"- garnishing really spoils the appearance of the dish. When vegetables are used for the garnishing the garnishing knife ;;^^ flutes them nicely, adding much to their appear- ance. There are different ways of garnishing, but the general method is to surround the article and in giving the garnishes, unless otherwise mentioned, that is what is meant . The article is sometimes placed on a bed of the garnish and sometimes around a ;^ mound of the latter, as illustrated, the chops surround- ing a mound of potatoes. In serving meats, game, etc., ^^^^^^^^ it is also very essential to have an appropriate sauce or chops and Potatoes. gravy which will enhance the flavor of the article served, and we give below sucn garnishes and sauces as have been used by diSerent cooks very success- fully, and one can select such as they wish or can prepare most easily. We also give some ways of preparing some of the garnishes although most of them are given in the first part of book. GARNISHES FOR CREAMS, ETC. For Bavarian Creams. — Whipped cream. For Blanc Mange. — Boiled custard. For Lemon Jelly. — Parsley or smilax with a few forget-me-nots. For Ice-cream. Whipped cream ; a meringue or a spray or two of smi- lax with some delicate roses. For Orange Jelly. — Parsley, smilax or myrtle with garden pinks. 976 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. For Coffee Jelly. — Some green with bright red geraniums or roses. For Dishes of Fruit. — Geranium leaves; rose leaves; holly leaves and berries, artificial leaves may be used but natural leaves are much preferred. Where it is possible it is nice to have the leaves of the fruit, as of apples, pears, peaches, plums, etc. GAKXISHES FOR FISH. For Eels. — Croutons ; fried parsley. For Boiled Cod. — Croutons ; potato patties. For Haddock. — Parsley and slices of lemon alternated. For Baked Fish. — Sliced hard boiled eggs, or egg pyramid. For Boiled White Fish. — Spoonfuls of grated horse-radish or potato balls. For Boiled Fish. — Slices of lemon. For Fried Fish. — Parsleys, celery, or lettuce. GARNISHES FOR MEATS. Boiled Bacon. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or brussels sprouts ; or place on a bed of boiled beans. For Boiled Beef. — Sliced cooked carrots, or turnips, whole glaced onions. Corned Beef (hot or cold) the same, or parsley, or the tender inside leaves of lettuce. For Broiled Beefsteak. — Ringed potatoes, squares of fried mush, sliced cucumbers, grated horse-radish, or place a poached egg on each piece. For Fried Cold Corned Beef. — Pickled gherkins. For Minced Beef (or any meats.) — Croutons. For Roast Beef. — Pieces of asparagus ; potato balls ; glazed onions ; or tufts of scraped horse-radish. For Stewed Beef. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or braised cabbage ; force- meat or potato balls. For Boiled Tongue, hot or cold. — Potato roses ; tufts of parsley and garnish the root with a paper frill . For Meat Hash. — Pickled cucumbers sliced in inch slices crosswise ; crou- tons or poached eggs. For White Meat IIa.-<}i, fried oysters, or slices of lemon. Game Hash, chopped sweet herbs. For Baked Ham, — Border of beans and garnish knuckle with a paper frill. For Boiled Ham. — Aspic jelly ; parsley, or flowers cut from vegetables. For Broiled Ham. — Poached eggs. For Fried Ham. — Fried eggs. For Breast of Lamb. — Cooked green i)ease around or under it. For Boiled Leg of Laiuh. — Cooked cauliflower or spinach. For Braised Loin of Lamb. — Place on a bed of either stewed pease, spinach or cucumbers. GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 977 Stewed Lamb. — Strew over with stewed mushrooms or green pease. For Lamb Chops. — Crisped parsley or place around a mound of mashed potatoes. For Lamb Cutlets. — Place chopped spinach in center. For Lamb Sweet-breads. — Water cresses ; tufts of parsley. For Boiled Neck of Mutton. — Slices of cooked carrots and turnips alter- nated ; or parsnips may be used instead of the latter. For Braised Leg of Mutton. — Braised onions. For Roast Neck or Loin of Mutton.— Little mounds of red currant jelly. Saddle of Mutton, same. Shoulder of Mutton, braised onions or baked toma- toes. For Boiled Leg of Pork. — Sliced cooked carrots, turnips or parsnips. For ^altpork, same. For Boast Pork or a Boast pig. — Baked apples. For Pork C/iops.— Pickled gherkins, or slices of large pickled cucumbers cut crosewise. For Fried Salt Pork, same, or fried apples. For Fried Sausa- ges, same as above. For Pigs Feet Souse. — Slices of lemon. For Boast Veal. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls alternating. For Stewed Fi?a7.— Force-meat balls ; rashers of broiled ham or bacon curled and fried ; boiled carrots sliced alternated with mounds of green pease ; or mushrooms and sorrel or spinach and endive. For Veal Cutlets or Chops. — Tender leaves of lettuce; olives; breaded rashers of pork, or same as for stewed veal. Veal Sweet-breads. — On a bed of cooked pease. For Boiled Calfs Head. — Egg balls, or fringed celery. For Calfs Liver. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls, or sliced pickled beets. For Calfs Tongue. — Aspic jelly. For Curries. — Border of boiled rice. GARNISHES FOR POULTRY, ETC. For Boiled Chicken. — Sliced hard boiled eggs alternated with tufts of celery or lettuce leaves ; or place on a bed of rice. Fricasseed Chicken. — Little mounds of boiled rice. Fried Chicken. — Fried oysters alternated with lemon points. Boast Chicken. — Crisped parsley or stuflFed tomatoes. For Boiled Turkey. — Same as for boiled chicken. For Boast Turkey. — Fried oysters, or sausages; force-meat balls; water- cresses. For Game. — Fresh or preserved barberries ; little mounds of currant jelly ; sliced oranges or lemons. 978 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. For Boiled Eahhit. — Rashers of fried ham or bacon ; or parsley. For Roast Rahhit. — A border of mashed potato ; force-meat balls ; water- cresses, or slices of lemon. GAKNISIIES FOR SALAUS. Cabbage >S'a7ac/.— Sliced hard boiled eggs. Chickem Salad. — Sliced hard boiled eggs in rings alternated with sliced pickled beets or cucumbers. Lobster Salad. — Same as above with the coral arranged with it ; or sur- round with a border of cray fish. Meat Salad. — Tender leaves of lettuce. Sardine Salad. — Small whole sardines, or lemon p(jints. .Salmon Salad. — Nasturtiums, buttercups, or wild roses. GARNISHES FOE VEGETABLES. For Artichokes.— Ciisiied parsley. For Asparagus on jToasl!.— Sliced hard boiled eggs. For Fried Stewed Cabbage.— Fried sausages. For Stewed Celery.— Crontons. For Greens. — Slices of tongue or hard boiled eggs. For Fried Potatoes.— Far s\ey sprinkled with grated lemon peel. For Stewed Peas. — Breaded rashers of bacon fried. This is also nice for beans, poached or fried eggs, and hashed calf's head. There are many other things that will prove a pretty garnish that we have not mentioned, such as carrot leaves, borage flowers, horse-radish flowers, nasturtium flowers, and many of the wild flowers may be used. In fact one can use almost anything by exercising good judgment as to amount used and how, when and where. A rule for those most often used M'ould be as follows : Parsley is the universal garnish for all kinds of cold meats, poul- trv fish etc. Horse-radish for roast beef, and slices of lemon for roast veal aiid calf's head. Carrots in slices, for boiled beef, hot or cold. Sliced beet, or hard boiled egg for cold meat and boiled beef. ]\Iint either with or with- out parsley for roast lamb, either hot or cold. Pickled gherkins, capers or boiled onions, for boiled meats and stews. Lemon points for all salads. Pickled cucumbers sliced crosswise for fried pork, sausage, hash, etc., and olives are very much used for all meats by those who like them. Where the •'arnishis an eatable one, a piece, slice, or bit is to be served with the article, but if not, it remains on the dish. We give also some of the preparations of different garnishes. Lemon Points. — Cut fresh lemons in thin slices, and divide these- slices into four parts. They are used as a garnish for salads and made dishes. GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 979 Egg Pyramids.— Take the inside of a stale loaf, cut into small pyramids with flat tops, and on the top of each pyramid put rather more than a table- spoon of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over, this sprinkle finely chop- ped parsley and fine browned bread-crumbs. Arrange these on the napkin round fish,' one green and ono brown alternating. Fried Bread for Borders. — Fry slices of bread cut in any fanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side into beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on the edge of the dish. Continue in this manner tillthe border is completed, arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternating. i?a,s/icrs o/Porit.— Cut breakfast bacon very thin and in strips three or four inches long. Fry only long enough to become transparent, or thoroughly hot; if cooked crisp it is ruined. Serve as a garnish, or laid over beefsteak, roast beef, game, etc. For Breaded Bashers of Pork, dip or roll the strips in fine bread crumbs (some first dip in beaten egg) then Ijrown nicely. May be used as a garnish for meat or vegetables. Sorrel Garnish. — Sorrel is best plucked between ]\Iay and October. Take about three pounds of sorrel, very fresh and green. Pick it nicely over and remove all stalks ; wash well and' drain well on a wire sieve. Chop it for quite twenty minutes. Now put into stewpan that will hold about two quarts, tablespoon of flour and one and a half of butter. Stir over the tire for three or four minutes, and then put in gill of broth, and eight minutes after, an- other gill. Again stir over the fire for twenty minutes. Beat up three or four eggs with one half gill of milk, in a basin ; pour these on the sorrel, stir- ring rapidly for several minutes. It is then ready to use as a garnish Potato Patties. — Beat or grate to a fine flour three-fourths pound of mealy potatoes, making it moist with a small quantity of milk ; put this with two ounces of butter, melted and beaten to a cream. Boil one-half pint of milk, stir it quite boiling into the potato, and stir it, holding it above the fire, into a very smooth, fine paste. Stand it on the hob and mix into it two well- beaten eggs. Let the mixture become cool, when beat it up with the yolks of four eggs ; whisk the whites of these to a froth, and stir it carefully into the batter. Butter little patty shells fill with the batter and bake a deep gold yellow in a quick oven. Serve hot as a garnish with any nice dish of fish, 'fowl, etc. Or butter patty pans and sprinkle grated crumbs over them, then fill with the batter and bake as above. Paper Frills and Rosettes for Cutlets, etc. — Cut a sheet of note paper into strips two inches wide, and double them lengthwise, to make the width of a knife blade. Cut the double edge into fringe a quarter inch deep. Move the edges of the paper one higher than the other, and the fringe will be bowed out instead of lying flat. Fasten the edge that way with a touch of corn starch paste made ver'y stiff. Then roll the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil and fasten the end with paste — if to be slipped over the ends of frogs' legs ; but if for cutlet bones, or ham, or tongue ends of uncertain size wrap them just before serving, and a touch of the very stifl" paste will hold them in place. To Garnish a Ham or Tongue. — ^Nlake a glaze as directed in meats, and when it softens, as glue would do, brush over the meat, ham or tongue ; then when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen syringe or a stiff paper funnel trace any design wished on the glazed surface ;_ this makes a very handsome dish, and if the ham has been properly boiled will be very satisfactory to the palate. Or the glaze may be omitted and butter, lard, or savory jelly used, with syringe cone or funnel, just as icing is used, as de- scribed in Ornamental Icing in first part of book. 080 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. To use butter or lard treat it in the same manner as directed for jelly in same place so as to get it just soft enough to pass through the cone. Be very careful not to get it too soft or it will not stand. In ^varm weather add a little tiour to stiffen it, but not too much, or it will not pass through the cone ; when ready fill cone with it, same as for icing, and use in same manner. This or- namentation, with the addition of a little parslej', and a cut root flower or so, completes the operation of decorating the above named articles. They are sometimes further, or even altogether decorated or garnished with "sippets," (small pieces) cut diamond or triangular form, and consisting of toasted bread, aspic jelly, etc. ; but this style of garnishing is usually adopted only by those who are not competant to decorate or garnish with butter, lard or savory jelly, and who are not able to cut their own root flowers. Root flowers are usually cut in the forms of roses, tulips, dahlias, etc., from white and yellow turnips, beets, and carrots, and the edges of the leaves are usually tipped with pink color, such as liquid "cochineal." To cut root flowers, wash the roots, and for say a rose, take a good shaped turnip, pare it, cut in the proper shape, then with a sharp pocket knife (French root-flower cutters may be had of dealers in confectioner's supplies,) go all around the bottom edge, so ^^^ ; then repeat this operation, so ,-OCX, bringing the second cuts iDetu-een the first, and holding the back of the knife blade from you and the edge towards you. This causes the cuts to meet at the bottom, and then by holding the knife point down, and running it all round inside the cut the piece falls out, leaving the leaves separate and distinct. Continue this until you reach the center, so ,00^. A little prac- tice will assist you in this particular, and you will ■^^^'-^ soon be able to make other flowers, as the principle is the same ; when the flowers are cut tip the edges as above. A Fan Garnish. — Slice small cucumbers very thin lengthwise, leaving them attached at tlie stem end and spread them open like little fans. These are nice for sliced cold meat, chicken or turkey. A Fannj Ganush. — Cut the breast of a cooked turkey or chicken into slices and then, either with a round tin cutter or a knife, cut these again into shapes all alike. Make some mayouaise sauce with lemon juice, and mix with it nearly an equal amount of aspic jelly, barely warmed enough to melt it. Cover the slices of turkey in the dish with the mayonaise-jelly and set the dish in the refrigerator. Mince a slice of cooked blood-beet extremely fine and some parsley the same. Take up the slices of turkey on a fork, when the jelly is set quite firm, and dip the underside lightly into the minced parsley, anfl then into the beet, making them appear sprinkled over, and place as a garnish to a Turkey Galatine, or they make a nice dish in themselves, garnish- ing the edge with green, such as shred lettuce. • SAUCES FOR FISH. For Baked Fish. — Egg or vinegar sauce. For Boiled Fish. — Hollandaise or liver sauce. SAUCES FOR MEATS. For Boiled Beef. — Apple, asparagus, chilli, cucumber, curry or horse- radish sauce. For Roast Beef. — Celery, drawn butter, lobster, mushroom, mustard, parsley, pickle and shrimp sauce. GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 981 For Stewed Beef. — Oyster sauce. For Fried beefsteak. — Brown onion cream, or roux sauce. For Boiled Tongue. — Tartar sauce, For Boiled Lamb. — Anchovy or Hollandaise sauce. For Boast Lamb. — Chestnut or mint sauce. For Boiled Mutton. — Tomato or caper sauce. For Boiled Veal. — Celerj' sauce. For Roast Veal. — Mushroom sauce. SAUCES FOK POULTRY AND GAME. For Boiled Chicken, — /read or cauliflower sauce. For Boast Chicken. — G\ >let sauce. For Boiled Turkey. — Len on or oyster sauce. For Ducks. — Olive sauce. For Roast Goose. — Apple sauce. For Game. — White or rice sauce. 982 THE KITCHEN. THE KITCHEN. It is almost impossible to give any directions except in a general way re- garding the kitchen, as there is an endless varietj^ of plans and arrangement. In no other room in the house are sunlight and fresh, pure air so indispen- sable as in the room where the most important work must be done. A long, narrow, dark kitchen is an abomination. Always furnish the kitchen well first, and if there is anything left to spend on the parlor, well ; if not the money has been spent well. The main point is to systematize every thing, group- ing such things as belong to any particular kind of work. For instance, in baking do not go to the china closet for a bowl, across the kitchen for the flour, and to the farther end of the pantry or store-room for an egg, when they may just as well be within eas)' reach of each other. Study and contrive to bring order out of the natural chaos of the kitchen, and the head will save the hands and feet much labor. If kitchen floors are made of hard wood and simply oiled two or three times a year, no grease spot is made when grease drops on them, for it can l^e easily wiped uj) — carpet or paint is not advisable. Neither paint nor paper the walls, but once a year apply a coat of the good old-fashioned whitewash. Do not have the woodwork painted ; the native wood well oiled and varnish- ed lightly is much the best finish. A wide, roomy dresser is a great con- venience ; it should have two wide closets below and three narrow ones above, with a row of drawers at top of lower closets. Here should be kept all pots and kettles, sauce-pans, waffle-irons, kitchen crockery, tins, etc., all arrang- ed and grouped together so as to be convenient for use. If possible, have good sliding doors, and at the top and bottom of same have a narrow sliding panel for a ventilator, which should be used when sweeping. By this ar- rangmcnt every article of kitchen ware can be enclosed from the dust and flies. A Avell appointed sink is a necessity in every kitchen, and should be near both window and range, so as to have light, and also be convenient to the hot water. It should be provided with a "grooved" and movable dish drainer, THE KITCHEN. 983 set so as to drain into the sink. Always have bracket or wall lamps, if not lighted by gas, placed at each end, or at the sides, so that the room may be well lighted in the evening. When possible, a long table at the end of the sink, and so close to it that water can not drip between, on which to dress vegetables, poultry, game, etc., saves time and steps; and the good light, which is a necessity in this part of the room, leaves no excuse for slighted or slovenly work. Under this table may be two drawers, with compartments in one for polishing materials, chamois leather, and articles needed for scour- ing tin and copper, and a pariYig knife, which is so essential in preparing fruit and vegetables, one with a guard on the side, as illustrated, prevents taking too thick a paring ; and in the other, articles for keeping Wie stove or range in order. Back of the table and sink, the wall should be ceiled with wood for three feet above them, and here may be put up galvanized iron hooks and nails on which to hand basting-si)oons, ladles, cooking forks and spoons, the chopping knife, cake turner, etc. A set of drawers close at hand for salt, pepper and spices is also convenient. There should never be bevel, beading, or moulding on kitchen window or door frames; and the kitchen door, leading to the dining room, should be faced with rubber and closed with a not too strong spring. Not less than three large windows are desiralile in every kitchen, which should be cheerful, pleasant, well ventilated, conven- ient and clean. In houses of the old stj'le there was either no pantry at all, the kitchen being furnished with a dresser and shelves, or it was merely a small closet to hold the articles in less common use. In modern houses the pantry is next in importance to the kitchen, and it should be so arranged as to accommodate all the appliances used in cookery, as well as the china, glass-ware, cutlery, and other articles for the table, unless a dresser is used as before suggested. In arranging a plan for a building, the pantry should receive careful consid- eration, as next in importance tflthe kitchen ; it should be sufficienth' roomy, open into both the dining-room and the kitchen, and, in oi'der to "save steps," should be as convenient to the range or cooking stove as circumstances will allow. The window should be placed so as to give light without infringing on the shelving ; the shelves should be so arranged as to not obstruct the light from it ; the lower ones should be two and a half feet from the floor, and two feet or more in width, and project about three inches be- yond the closets and drawers below ; and the part near the window, where there is no shelving,may be used for moulding and pre- paring pastry, and such other work as may ^i''«'^' Kact. be most conveniently done here, andif possible, have a Baking Cupboard (as described in Kitchen Wrinkles) near by with drawers, etc., for spices, but if that cannot be had a Spice Rack, which, as illustrated, is a neat rack in which 984 THE KITCHEN. is set small cans coutaining spices. The handle is a convenience and can be set near when cakes are to be made, and when the work is done it may be set away on a shelf or in a cupboard until needed again, or some prefer a Spice Cabinet, being a little bureau, about a foot high with each drawer labeled outside, "nutmegs," "cloves," etc., and put up near where cakes, etc., are made. It costs little, probably about two dollars, and is a great eonvenience. Other shelves, or a china closet, should be provided for the china and other table furniture in every day use. The pantry should have an abundance of drawers and closets, of which it is hardly possible to have too many — the up- per closets for the nicer china and glass, and the lower ones to hold pans and other cooking utensils in less frequent use. The drawers are for table-linen and the many uses the housekeeper will find for them. If psssible the window should be on the north side, but in any case it should have blinds for shade, and a wire gauze or other screen to keep out flies. Use a cloth to wash potatoes. It is no trouble to keep one for this pur- pose, and it will save hands and time. Some prefer a small brush which you can buy for the purpose. Tie a strip of muslin on the end of a round stick, and use to grease bread and cake pans, gem-irons, etc. Have two large pockets in your kitchen apron, and in one of them always keep a holder. A piece of clam or oyster shell is much better than a knife to scrape a kettle, should you be so unfortunate as to burn anything on it. If you use a copper tea-kettle, keep an old dish with sour milk and a cloth in it, wash the kettle with this every morning after washing oil' with clear water, audit will always look bright and new. Cut a very ripe tomato and rub over a kitchen table to remove grease. The juice will also remove stains from and whiten the hands. CARE OF LAMPS. If you use oil, buy the best kerosene. , To test it, place a small quantity in a tea-cup, and if it does not easily ignite when brought into contact with a lighted paper or match, it is good ; poor oil will ignite instantly. Keep oil in a ten-gallon can, with a faucet at the lower part, so as to draw oflF into a smaller can or lamp-filler ; set the large can in a cool, dark place; keep all the articles used for cleaning, filling and trimming lamps by themselves. For these purposes provide an old waiter (to hold the things), a lamp-filler, pair of scissors or a lamp-trimmer, box of wicks, soap, washing soda, and several soft cloths and towels, also a wire hairpin with which to keep open the vent in the burner, and what is known as a cork puller is use- ful for holding cloths used in Cork puii.r. ^ cleaning lamp chimneys as well as pulling corks form bottles and using dish cloths in hot water. When lamps need an extra cleaning, add one tablespoon soda to a quart of water, be- ing careful that none of the bronze or gilding comes in contact with the soda. THE KITCHEN. 985 The wick should touch the bottom of the lamp and be trimmed square across. When the wick becomes too short to carry up the kerosene, and you have not time to put in a new wick, a piece or cotton rag pinned on below will prove a good feeder. Whe burners of lamps become gummy and prevent the wicks moving freely, boil them up in suds over the fire for a short time, and they will become entirely clean and work well. Lamps may become encrusted in- side with settlings from the oil, and ordinary washing will not remove it. Take soap-suds and fill the lamp about one-third full, then put in a little sharp sand, and shake vigorously. A few minutes will remove every particle of settlings. Always fill the lamps every day and in the day-time ; never fill a lamp after dark near a lighted lamp. When lighting a lamp turn the wick up slowly so that the chimney is gradually heated. When taking a lamp from a warm room into a cold one, first turn down the wick ; do not fill too full, as the heat expands the oil and drives it out making the lamp dirty and dangerous. Never light or burn an almost empty lamp, as the empty space is nearly always filled with a very explosive gas. Before putting out a lamp turn it down until the wick is below the top of tube ; as if left above it the oil gradually works out through the wick and runs down over the burner and lamp. Turn the flame down low, and wave a fan, book, or paper across the top of the chimney. Blowing down a chimney is very dangerous when a lamp is nearly empty and turned up high. Never start a fire with oil. Buy the best lamp chimneys by the dozen. The best are cheapest, and it is conven- ient to have fresh ones on hand when one is broken at an inopportune time A piece of sponge fastened on the end of a stick or wire is the best thing with which to clean lamp chimneys. Or, hold them over the nose of the tea-kettle when the kettle is boiling furiously. One or two repetitions of this process will make them beautifully clear. Of course they must be wiped upon a clean cloth. Fill new tin pans with boiling water (having a little soda in it,) let stand on a warm part of the range for a while wash in strong soap-suds, rinse, and dry well. Scouring tins very often with whiting or ashes wears them out ; if properly taken care ofV washed in suds and thoroughly dried, they will not need scouring. This same care is needed for a steamer, which is one of the nicest utencils in which to cook vegetables, etc., for many vegetables are much better when steamed than when boiled in actual contact with water. Cabbage, with salt sprinkled among the leaves is more quickly cooked and is much more delicate than when boiled. The same is true of puddings, particularly plum puddidgs, and for chickens potatoes, rice, and indeed for nearly every thing usually immersed in tvater. The outer kettle is partly filled with boiling water, the article to be cooked is placed in the perforated pan and set in the other and a close fitting patent steamer. cover placed over both. There are many other steamers larger and more elaborate, but the one illustrated is a good simple one. 986 THE KITCHEN. Boil ashes or a bunch of hay or grass in a new iron kettle before cooking in it; scour well Avith soap and sand, then fill with clean water, and boil one or two hours, To remove the taste of wood, first scald the vessel well with boiling water, letting the Mater remain in it till cold ; then dissolve sal-soda or soda, (two pounds to a barrel of water) in lukewarm water, adding a little bit of lime to it, and wash the inside of the vessel well with this solution ; afterward scald it well with plain hot water, and rinse it with cold water be- for you use it. Knives for the table should never be used to cook with ; those for the former purpose may be a cheap plated set for every day use, and slinuld ^>v ke]it by themselvi's, and never be allowed to be used in the kitch- en. A convenient tray is the one illustrated ; it is made of strong Japanned tin and has a separate apartment for knives, spoons, and forks, and teaspoons. It is also provided with a convenient handle. A wooden box may l>e Kui^. i . . u j.,i:.. made by an ingenious man in the same form, that will be equally convenient. Lucky is the woman who has the ingenious man at hand, who has the time and is willing to spend it in fitting up the kitchen with such conveniences. Never place a range or cook- ing stove ojjposite a door or window if it can be avoided, as any draft will prevent the oven from baking well. A necessity in the kitchen, because a great protection against clothes taking fire, is a large kitchen apron made full length with bib, and sleeves if wished, the skirt to button close around the dress-skirt. A Avooden mat (made l)y laying down six pieces of lath eleven inches long, one inch wide, and an inch apart, and nailing across these, at right angles, six other similar pieces about the same distance ajjart) is a great jirutection to the kitchen table, which sliould be of ash. Hot kettles and pans from the stove may then be set on this Avithout danger, as the construction of the mat secures a cir- culation of air under it. It is the "little foxes that spoil the A'ines" in the kitchen as well as elsewhere — the neglect of little things causes loss of time, IJatk'nce and money. CAEE OF FIRES. In building fires concentration is the important point ; 1st, the fuel should be concentrated, that is, put together in a compact heap, and 2d, in a place on the grating where the draft can be concentrated upon it. These two points gained it is an easy matter to ]iroduce a brisk fire. When the kindling, Avhich must be dry and in sufficient quantity, is Avell started, the Avood or coal, as tlie case may be, is so put on that the draft and flame Avill pass directly through the fuel. In starting a fire, all depends upon having the conditions right, and great loss of time, and even patience, is incurred if they are not THE KITCHEN. 987 provided. Always have wood in the box. This can generally be done with- out taking special time for it, by remembering to bring some in when you pass the wood-pile without anything in the hands. See that the wood-box is full at night, and the sha^'ings and kindlings in their place. In the morn- ing empty the ash-pan, or better still, clean your stove or range at night. This can always be done, except in the case of late suppers. When supper is ready, and there is no further use for the fire, open the oven doors, take all the covers partly off the holes, and by the time the supper dishes and need- ful work in the preparation for breakfast is done, if the fire has been properly attended to, the stove will be cool enough to clean out, which should be thoroughly done, removing all the ashes or cinders from every part of it. This is a very particular work, as the corners often secrete quite an amount of ashes that must be removed if you will have a perfectly clean stove. Rap on the sides of the pipes, to dislodge the soot and ashes that collect there, sweep all over with a long handled brush-broom and the stove is ready to receive the shavings, kindlings and wood for the fire. Where there is a large amount of cooking to be done, the ashes should be cleared from under the slides of the ovens as often as once a week in large or small families ; this will insure the oven to bake luell, and always the same, if the fire is properly arranged. In removing ashes it is very important that they are not thrown out in improper places or placed in wooden receptacles where a fire may break out from spontaneous combustion or from some ■■'unknown cause." A proper ash barrel is made of metal, should be heavy enough so as not to be easily bruised, and should be provided with handles for convenient removal. The one rep- resented in cut when used for coal ashes, is pro- vided with a sieve which holds and saves all the unconsumed coal, while it allows the ashes to pass through. Never on any account use ker- osene to make the fire burn more quickly. In a saiv asii BDrrci. making the fire, as soft wood burns more quickly than hard, it is better to bave some with which to start it, filling up with hard wood. If the wood is good and properly placed you will have a bright clear flame, yielding a great amount of heat which should be utilized for cooking purposes, by so arrang- ing the draught that none of it is wasted. This can only be done by one who 30 perfectly understands each part of it as to economize in the use of fuel. The fire needs constant, attention, as it is poor economy to let the fire go par- tially out, as in adding fresfa fuel the heat is wasted until the stove and oven are again heated to the right temperature for cooking. Fill the tea-kettle full of water and place on the stove, and if the fire is good it will boil soon enough for use, and every time water is used, add cold, so as to keep the supply good. The habit is almost universal to put a small 988 THE KITCHEN. quantity of water in the tea-kettle, aiming to have just enough for certain things, and if an extra demand occurs the kettle is empty, the fire is out, and the delay occasions no little trouble to both cook and mistress. "When water has been made to boil no matter what is cooking in it, tlie fire may be very much lessened, as but little heat is required to keep it boiling. Eapid boil- ing does not hasten cooking, and the articles cooked are much better when boiled slowly. For general use copper and brass cooking utincils are not the best, be cause of the great care necessary to keep them clean and free from poisonous deposits, a work that can never he trusted to servants. The best granite iron is both safe, light and easy to clean. Care should be used in cooking in tin vessels, as they are liable to be aff'ected by acids, oils and salt, but not to the same extent as copper. For all ordinary cooking purposes, if tin vessels are kept clean and free from rust, no injury will result. A little whiting or dry flour may be used to polish tin with. If a kettle is to be used for cooking fish, heat it first over the fire ; if an odor arises, it needs cleaning as above, heat it over the fire, rub well with broAvn paper, then with an onion. In washing tin ware use soft water and soap, and wash well, rinse with hot water, wipe well, and put on the hearth or stove to dry perfectly ; once a week wash tin ware in water in which a little sal-soda has been dissolved ; take the suds for the pots and kettles (if not hot add more hot water,) and wash and rinse thoroughly on the inside. To wash the outside of pots, kettles and all iron ware, place in a tub or large dish- pan, and with soap on cloth, rub them briskly and hard; if necessary scrajte with an iron spoon or old knife to get all dirt oflf, rinse in hot water, wipe, and place on stove to dry. The best thing to wash them with is a wire dish-cloth. If kept wire Dish-cloth, scrupulously cleau, oysters, tomatoes, and even some delica- cacies that are usually cooked in porcelain and cranite ware, may be cooked nicely in iron. Dish washers and wipers should be kept very clean, being washed in suds and well rinsed after each meal. A very convenient article, upon which to harx" them to drj' is the umbrella folding rack which niay be placed on the wall near the stove. When in use it presents a a coodly number of arms on which to hang articles to be dried, and when not in use it closes up modestly and occupies no useful space. We know of nothing so simjjle and useful for the purpose. It is made in the very best manner, and with fair usage will la^t a life-time. The cut on the left rep- resents the rack folded with arms droi)petl against the wall, and the one on the right the same spread out ready for use. En- umbreiu Folding Rack. ameled ware may be cleansed by filling the vessel with hot water, with soda dissolved in it— one ounce to a gallon ; let it boil twenty minutes ; then if the THE KITCHEN. 989 stain does not all come off, scour with fine sand or brick dust ; rinse well with hot water and wipe dry. If by carelessness or accident, while making chow- chow, or anything else, it becomes burned on the porcelain kettle, empty immediately, fill with water, put in about pint of wood ashes to tAvo gallons of water, let it boil twenty minutes ; clean with sand or brick dust as above, if it does not all come off. In either case, if unsuccessful the first time, re- peat. To clean a brown porcelain kettle, boil peeled potatoes in it. The porcelain will be rendered nearly as white as when new. To clean silver or plated ware, wash in clean hot water or lay in hot soda water a few minutes ; then wipe dry with a canton flannel cloth, and polish with chamois skin. If silver powder is used for cleaning tarnished spots, care must be taken to brush out all the dust from the chased work on the plate. In the daily use of silver, wash in clean hot water and wipe dry with a canton flannel cloth. Never use soap in washing silver. Steel knives and forks are best cleaned by being scoured with bath brick, but some good "kitchen maids" always use the common brick pulverized, with good success. Have a properly made knife- box, with board extending, on which to lay the knife to scour, wet a cloth in hot water or soft soap and water, dip in the dust which has been previously shaved off; then rub onion Knife, briskly and hard until all spots are removed; wash and rinse in clean, hot water and wipe dry. Never put a knife into hot fat, as it destroj^s the tem- per and the knife is useless. It is nice to have a separate knife for peeling onions, and marked so that it can al- ways be kept for that purpose. One is Potato Knife. also uice SO marked for potatoes, and one should certainly be had for use in preparing fish as the taint is so strong. A separate pan and board should also be kept for this purpose. The sink comes in for special notice. Wash it daily with soap and water, rinse with clean boiltng water, alvmys rinsing in hot water after pouring suds into it. This can not be insisted on too strongly, because of such great importance in the cleanliness of the kitchen. The old adage, "A time for everything," applies here. On Mondays and Thursdays, during summer, pour hot water, containing a little chloride of lime, or some copperas water as directed in Kitchen Wrinkles, into the drains, and every Monday in win- ter. This will prevent all unpleasant and unhealthy odors. The use of soda in cleansing our wares generally diminishes the quantity of soap needed. As a general thing, too much soap is used in washing dishes. Many good house- keepers do not allow soap used in washing dishes at all, except to clean tin and iron ware, dish cloth and sink. In cleaning an unpainted kitchen floor, if there are spots of grease on it, i>ut some soft soap (or lye, if to be had) in a tin cup, kept for the purpose ; place on the stove until boiling hot ; then pour a little on each spot and scour with ashes ; wash the floor with soft hot water, rinse well, and, if the grease is not out the first time, try it again when the floor needs cleaning. Always remember to rinse thoroughly, changing the 990 THE KITCHEN. water when it becomes too dirty. In cleaning floors, tables, or wood- work, remember to rub always with, and not across, the grain of the wood. The breakage of dishes in some houses is fearful. There are very few families rich enough to bear it, much less the families of small means or just a competence. The mother is sick or wearied with the eare of the nursery, and cannot see to the putting away of the best china, which has been used because a friend dined with them. "While conversing with her guest, she hears a crash in the kitchen. It is with difficulty she remains calm until the guest departs, when she finds a cup has fallen and cracked her nice tureen, and broken a nick out of two or three saucers ; or several goblets, set in a careless place, have fallen and are broken. She is sick at heart, for it was but a few weeks before she had spent fifteen or twenty dollars to replace her broken, cracked, and nicked dishes. Little comfort does she get from Brid- get, who replies : "La, madam, it was but a few of your dishes, and sure I could not help it. I would not think the likes of ye would make such a fuss." Every wise housekeeper will distinguish between carelessness and accidents. To correct this evil, and stop the great waste, the only way is to have help understand they must replace each broken or nicked dish (for a nick in a dish is as bad as a break), or have the cost of them deducted from their wages. This will cause two very valuable results. The servant will become more careful, which will add much to the comfort of the mistress, and will also form a habit of carefulness that will fit her to become a goof sulphur, lesin, and brick-dust also make an excellent cement. To Soften Water. — Hard water is rendered verv soft and pure, rivaling distilleii water, by merely boiling a two-ounce vial, say in a kettle of water. The carbonate of lime and many impurities will be found adhering to the bottle. The water boils very much quicker at the same time. A Fire Kindler. — Melt togefher three pounds resin and a quart of tar, and stir in as much saw-dust and i>ulverized charcoal as possible, spread the mass on a board to cool, and break into lumps the size of a walnut. Light one with a match, and it burns for some time with a strong blaze. Tiihle Cover, to be thrown over the table after it is set, is best made of red cheese cloth. Pink mosquito netting is handsomer but does not keep off dust ; set table for next meal immediately after the dishes are washed — the most convenient plan where the dining-room is not used for other purposes. Slair Spoon-Fork. — One of the _„___,____ most convenient articles for dishing "^ ~^7r^^'^ ^^~M-» ■ -^^ — ^ slaw is the spoon-fork as illustrated. ^^"^Mi^ifcir^^S^^^^-i^^Wrc — ^ One can serve neatly and quickly ^vith it. o, c f „ • Slaw Spoon-Fork. To Cleansea Syrup Jar.— li\\n\^\e syrup is not hot enough when put in jars, or is imperfectlv sealed, it will crvstalize. In getting the crystal out lay the jar on the side," put in a little water and turn a little occasionally, and the crystal will come out without breaking the tjlass as it will if you try to soak it out while upright. KITCHEN WRINKLES. 995 To Renew Stale Bread, Etc. — Spread a good sized cloth in the steamer, and lay in any dry biscuit or slices of light bread you may have. Cover closely with the cloth, which will absorl> superfluous moisture, and steam ten or fifteen minutes. The bread will be almost as fresh as when new. Salt Dishes. — The "'star salts" are now very generally used on account of their convenience and utility. In the bottle, which has a perforated top like a pepper-box, is a pulverizer which keeps the salt loose, and insures its free delivery. When it is not necessary to measure the quantity, thej^ are always ready, and insure a good distribution of the salt. Pancake Lifter. — This simple and cheap lifter is a necessity if unbroken and neatly baked pancakes are a desideratum. Th»^ cost is small, and the lifter will last a life- time, and with it there is no excuse for not serving the breakfast cakes neatly. Measures. — They should be a quart, pint, half pint and gill, all made of best charcoal tin that contains no poisonous lead which is so commonly used to coat inferior tin-ware. Still more convenient is a lately invented meas- ure of tapering form with ring or shoulders, at different heighths, showing any measure desired from a gill to a quart. ^•1 Clean Cook Stove. — Housekeepers shoul(i endeavor to keep their cook- stoves clean, an easy matter by using care. Salt sprinkled over anything that is burning on the stove will prevent any disagreeable odor. Instead of us- ing a knife to scrape the dirt off, a small sheet of sand-paper is more conven- , and better. Stove legs painted red are very pretty and are more easily clean. ieiii a kept ( To Make Kindlings. — Put two or three ounces tallow to one pound resin, melt very carefully together and when hot stir in line sawdust and make very thick. Spread it immediately about one inch thick upon a board, first sprinkling the board with fine sawdust to prevent sticking. AVhen cold, break into lumps one inch square. Or make nicer thus ; while the mixture is warm on the board, take a thin board grease the edge and mark the kindl- ing off into squares, pressing it in deep; then when cold they will break otf into regular pieces. Cement for Dishes. — Into a thick solution of gum arable stir plaster of paris until the mixture assumes the consistency of cream, apply with a brush to the broken edges of the ware and join together. In three days the article cannot be broken in the same place. The whitness of the cement adds to its value. A simple way is to tie the broken dishes carefully together then boil for ten or fifteen minutes in milk keeping the broken parts covered with milk, they will be nearly as strong as when new. Some use simply white lead and place the dish away for two or three mouths. The American Broiler The American liiuil- the silver. — This popular broiler has been before the jiublic for many years, and lias done more to banish the health-destroying frying pan from the kitchen than any of its later rivals. It will also be a fav- orite. To Chan Silver. — "Inaexical Soaj^" is the bes^ thing for the purpose in use, not for everyday, but when thorough cleaning is required. It is well, also, to keep it in a convenient dish, and rub on with a bit of flannel whenever a spot appears on 096 KITCHEN WRINKLE?. A Moveable Sink, set on very large and strong casters, is a labor-saving contrivance. It may be run into the dining-room to receive dishes after the meal is over, and afterwards returned to the kitchen and placed where the Hght is best, or in the coolest part of the room if the weather is hot. Simple contrivances of this kind, which cost little except the labor of the "men folks," may often be used to save steps and preserve the health of the over- worked housekeeper. Batter Bucket. — This convenient utensil to be used in making griddla cakes should be used in every kitchen. The most per- fcctlj' shaped cakes can be made from it without drop- ping over stove and griddle, and the cover and stopper keep it closely covered after batter is made, till wanted for use. To Clean Brans Kettles. — When much discolored, scour with soap and ashes, then put in a half pint vinegar and a handful of salt, put on stove, let come to a boil, take cloth, wash thoroughly, and rinse out with water. If using every day, the salt and vinegar and rinsing are sufficient. Copper utensils are cleaned by simply rubbing with the """^^ ^"'=''®*' salt and vinegar, using as much salt as the vinegar will dissolve, and apply with a woolen rag, rubbing vigorously ; then polish with pulverized chalk. Water boiled in galvaifized iron becomes poisonous, and cold water passed through zinc-lined iron pipes should never be used for cooking or drinking. Hot water for cooking should never be taken from hot water pities ; take from cold-water pipes and keep a sui)ply heated for use in kettles. Lid Lifters. — There are a great many forms of lifters for stove lids, ^he two best we illustrate here. In one the handle is of wood, set in an iron socket, and the other serves as a lid lifter, and has a hook for lifting pots and kettles, which are provided with bails. Always have a shelf for the lifter near the stove ; never hang on a nail. Gas Stoi'es. — In cities where gas is used the use ol gas stoves lor couKing in hot weather is as a rule economical, and adds much to comfort, or rather saves much discomfort. Gas companies usually make a discount for gas consumed in cooking. There are many gas stoves in market, many of them excellent for the purpose. Vienna lAme. — A'ienna lime and alcohol give a beautiful polish to iron or steel. .Select the soft pieces of lime, such as will be easily crushed by the thumb and finger, as they are the most free from gritty particles. Apply with a cork, piece of soft pine M'ood, leather, chamois, etc. 0(7 Stoves. — Where gas is not in u.se, some one of the many kind of oil stoves may be xised for cooking to advantage, in hot weather especially, when the family is small. The use of tliose which use gasoline, and the lighter products of petroleum, usually increases the rate of insurance, and is too dangerous to be trusted to any Ijut the most careful and experienced persons. Iron Sink. — The best sink for service and convenience is made of cast- iron in one solid piece. There are several sizes manufactured, and the larg- est size that can be afforded should be selected. The iron sink never leaks, is easily cleaned doe.-? not need painting, does not get foul like wood, or wear out like zinc. The waste-pipe is easily and firmly attached, and in short it has all the merits aud none of the faults of other sinks. KITCHEN WfllNKLES. 997 Hot Alum-Water is the best insect destroyer known. Put the alum into hot water, and let it boi] till it is all dissolved ; then apply the solution hot with a brush to all cracks, closets, bedsteads, and other places where any insects are found. Ants, bedbugs, cockroaches, and creeping things are killed by it, while it has no danger of poisoning. To Prevent Rusting of Tin, rub fresh lard over every part of the dish, and then put in a hot oven and heat it thoroughly. Thus treated, any tin- ware may be used in water constantly, and remain bright and free from rust. To clean tin or other metalic vessels" which have held petroleum — hot soap and water. Fly Trap.— In spite of carefully screened windows, flies will make their their way into the best kept houses. The trap represented here is the invention of a lady, and is a perfect success. It will clear a room of flies in a short time, if none are al- lowed to get in from out of doors. The flies are attracted inside the cage by bait and can't get out, and are easily killed and trap set for more. Kitchen Windows— Onghi to be as cheerful, light and bright as in any room in the house. If the sills are extra broad, and a few choice flowers thrive on them, so much the better. The ceilings should be of a cheerful tint, and the wood-work, whether oiled or painted, varnished. This protects the wood and paint, and it is easily cleaned. It is a mistaken idea to neglect the kitchen for the parlor. Spoon Cupboard.— As near the stove or range as possible have a small cupboard, made of the same wood as kitchen is finished in, Avithout any shelves. Have little screw hooks screwed in the back of it in rows for lar^'e basting spoons, meat forks and any of the email articles used in cooking that can be hung up. At the bottom place the small knives and forks, and have a hollowed out shelf placed on bottom of door high enough up to shut in, for the table and teaspoons needed. This saves many steps and much time in fumbling through drawers. Baking Cupboard. — In the pamtryhave a cupboard without shelves, be- side the place used for baking a»d in it have screw-hooks screwed on the sides and back, upon which to lusag measures, egg-beater, cake paddles, and all small utensils used in baking. On the bottom keep the flavoring extracts, cook-book and anything else that can not be hung up. Under this cupboard it is nice to have some small drawers for raisins, currants, boxes of spice, gelatine, etc. Making them of difi"erent heighths as wanted. Cabbage Water. — Be careful that no cabbage water is poured down the kitchen-sink, as the smell of it — a singularly unpleasant one — is so strong that it will penetrate all over the house, and produce the suspicion of a bad drain. The water in which any vegetable has been boiled, should be thrown away out of doors, in a distant corner of the garden, if possible. Pulverized Charcoal — should be kept in every house in a glass jar with a wide mouth, containing a half pint. The coal should be freshly burned — the best is not from the hardest or softest wood, but a medium— pulverized finely in a mortar while the coals are yet red. Cork tight ; it is invaluable in preserving meats and poultrv and is sometimes even given as a remedv for indigestion. A Grate Heater. — One oi tne latest cneap conveniences is a neat iron plate, large enough to set a coffee or teapot on, which has appendages be- 998 KITCHEN WRINKLES. low which slip over the front bars of a grate, and furnish a place to heat cof- fee, tea or water by the grate fire. This heater may be attached so as to project inside over "the fire, or outside when the heat would be less intense. A Table Heater. — Another ingenious heater is a round piece of solid iron, as large as the bottom of a coffee-pot. This is placed on the top of the stove and heated, and when the coffee-pot is placed on the table this heater, set in a neat cast-iron basket, supported on three neat legs, takes the place of a table mat and keeps it steaming hot, as the iron holds heat for a long time. The basket is constructed so that air circulates under the iron and prevents injury to the table. Tension Chopping Knife. — In this knife the blades are made of fine steel, wrought very thin, and are kept firm by the tension of the frame in which they are set. It does very rapid work, and is an excellent knife for family use. Most people consider hash a very delicious breakfast dish, in spite of all the hits newspaper paragrajihers have made on it, and a good implement for making it is indispensable in every well ordered kitchen. The chopping knife is a great savor of butchers' bills, and ought to be respected acconl- ingl" 77ie Smell of Onions and other odors can be removed from kettles and saucepans. Put some wood ashes into the utensils, add boiling water, and let it stand a short time on the back part of the stove. Or, if you have no wood ashes, use potash, soda, or concentrated lye with water, then wash in hot suds. All conking utensils in which onions, cabbage, or turnips have been cooked should be thus cleanised. Polishing. — Flour of emery, which is cheap and is kept at all drug-stores, is excellent for jiolishing everything except silver. Common water-lime, such as is used in plastering cisterns, is an excellent material for polishing knives, forks, and tin-ware. First rub tins with a damp cloth, then take dry flour and rub it on with the hands, and afterwards take an old newspaper and rub the tin until bright. Keep in an old pepper-box, and aonlv with a damp cloth. Rack for Covers. — There are always ueeaed about a kitchen stove or range a number of articles, such as tin covers for pots and pans, handles for stove covers, etc. There should always be a rack or other convenient place on the wall near the stove .and within easy reach for all such articles. The handle for stove covers is often hung up, but never should be, because it is often snatched off in a hurry. A small shelf is better if placed at a conven- ient height. Arrange everything about a stove to save time and steps. A Good Lantern is a necessity in every house, and a ])Oor lantern that is always out of order when wanted, is as much a nuisance as a broken umbrella. The form represented here burns kerosene oil, and is a cheap, convenient, and in every way a good lantern for family use. The lamp is easily filled. The tube that surrounds the lamp furnishes the air for com- bustion and it is not easily broken or damaged. Cuphoard-1. — There ought always to be an iron-ware closet; with deep shelves, in the kitchen where the iron-ware can be kept out of the dust. For china, glass and silver, if such a lux- ury is known, a corner cupboard with glass doors is a pretty _^ article of furniture, and takes very little available room. Draw- ers for napkins and table-clothes and for the children's bibs and aprons are also in order. KITCHEN WRINKLES. 999 Fryer and Drainer. — This invention furnishes a con- venient method of frying, oysters, potatoes and other articles that when done need to be removed quickly from the boiling fat and drained, while remaining over the hot fire, in order to remove all superfluous grease. It has a support for the perforated pan which rests in- side the frying pan, which may be detached, leaving the frying pan a little deeper than those in common use. To Wash f'reserve Jars — Preserve jars or bottles should be carefully washed as soon as emptied, taking care that the stoppers and covers have their share of attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia into the jars or bottles, fill up with water, and let stand an hour, putting the stoppers or covers into a bowl to soak in __ Frjer ami Drainer. the same way. Then pour out and scald nicely, but not with boiling water, as that cracks the polished surface inside, wipe dry, set in the sun or wind to air, and then set away carefully. A Folding Table. — A folding table is very useful in small houses, and even in large houses for many purposes. The accompanying cut represents a form which is simple, convenient, and easily made by any carpenter. It folds up compactly when not in use, and when needed may be instantly unfolded and is ^ ready for use. When an extra table is needed in ^ making up clothing, etc., such a piece of furniture is invaluable, and when not in use it does not occupy valuable space and get in everybody's way. Coffee Syrup.— Take a half pound of the best ground coffee ; put it into a saucepan containing three pints of water, and boil it down to one pint ; boil the liquor, put it into another sauce-pan, well scoured, and boil it again. As it boils add white sugar enough to give the consistency of syrup ; take it from the fire, and when it is cool put in a bottle and seal. When traveling if you wish for a cup of good coffee put two teaspoons of the syrup into an ordinary cup, and pour boiling water upon it, and it is ready to use. Spice Box. — The spice box serves the same purpose as the rack and cabinet, but is closer than either and equally convenient. It has a handle on the top and a clasp which fastens the lid in place. For keeping spices from waste, and for convenience, one of these con- trivances is a great addition to a kitchen outfit. A Pair of Good Scales is a necessity in every well-regulated kitchen. Unfortunately for people who always want to get the full worth of their money, not every grocer and butcher is honest, and when the quality of goods is satisfactory there is sometimes a ser- ious shortage in weight. A good pair of scales is a little detective that does its work quietly and faithfully. If after all al- lowance for error that reasonable man could ask, you find weights habituallj' short, it is better and safer to try a new dealer ; but if the dealer knows you have a weighing scale and use it, your weights will be full, especially if you pay your bills promptly. 1000 KITCHEN WRINKLES. Washing Dishes.— In washing dishes, in addition to directions given in ''Dining Room," care must be taken not to put tumblers which have had milk in them into hot water, as it drives the milk into the glass, whence it can never be removed. They should be tirst rinsed well in tepid water. Tumblers and goblets should be Easy Dish Drainer. placed in hot soap}' watcr, dipping the sides first, and turning them rapidly, thus heating the outside and inside at the same time and preventing breaking; when wiped, they should not be turned down until put away in a china closet. It is a very nice way to use the easy dish drainer as illustrated. The bottom is spaced so as to hold plates upright as represented in cut. The drainer may also be used as a bread-cooler, and the same frame, lined with pretty material, makes a nice family work basket. To Keep Table Clothes Clean — for a long time. After clearing the table, place a clean towel under any spots that may have been made duriiag dinner, and rub the spot with a fresh clean cloth wet with clean soap-suds, then rinse with clean water, dry with a clean dry towel, fold and lay under a heavy weight. In changing table cloths during the week, contrive to bring the fresh table cloth on first at dinnar. Place a large napkin over each end of table cloth, to protect it from soiling in the process in serving the plates, removing when the crumbs are brushed. To Clean Coffee or Tea-pots. — Musty cofTee-pots ana tea-pots may be cleaned and sweetened by putting a good quantity of wood ashes into them and tilling up with cold water. Set on the stove to heat gradually till the water boils. Let it boil a short time, then set aside to cool, when the inside should be faithfully washed and scrubbed in hot soap-suds, using a small brush that every spot may be reached ; then scald two or three times, and wipe till well dried. Pots and pans or plates that have been used for baking and grown rancid, may be cleansed in the same way. Put the plates into a pan with wood ashes add cold water, and proceed as above stated. If no wood ashes can be had, take soda. Pie-plates and baking-dishes cleaned after this fashion will keep sweet all the time. A Convenient Ash Bo.t. — This can be made of cheap lumber, and of a size that the lumber at hand will cut without waste ; seven feet in length by three feet in width, and four feet high may answer in most circumstances. A lid. A, is provided occupying nearly one-half of the top, as shown in fig. 1, and also a side door B, used for removing the ashes. Two strips of board are fastened within and lengthwise of the box, upon which the sifter or sieve rests as it is shaken, as shown in verticle view, upper figure. The sieve, which is an ordinary one, costing perhaps twenty-five cents at the store, has a long handle fastened to it ; with this the ash box and sifting ap- paratus is complete. The advantages claimed for this ash box are : The ashes can be sifted without making any dust, as when the lid is closed the whole is confined within the box. The ashes and sieve are kept from exposure to storms, and the latter is always in place and ready KITCHEN WBINKLES. 1001 for use. It dispenses with a disagreeable looking heap of ashes often found on exhibition the year round, and lastly it is cheaply and easily made. As the structure is of wood, care should be taken that there be no live coals among the ashes when they go to the ash box. A coat of paint will add to the ap- pearance of this useful and economical article. The Dover Broiler.— A. good deal of ingenuity has been exhausted in va- rious inventions for broiling meat easily and quickly, and leaving housewives " no excuse for using the dyspepsia- producing, old-fashioned frying pan, and there are several good ones in the market. The latest candidate for favor hails from Boston, and is well represented in the engraving. The meat is placed between the bars of a reversible wire broiler, and set up- right inside the tin or Russia iron case, the cover to which slides over the handles and keeps in all the heat. The case has no bottom, but is made in several sizes to fit the holes of the various sizes of stoves. The meat is thus subjected to great heat without danger of burning. A spout is ar- ranged to catch all the juices as they flow, and carries them to a little pan — ,j„». ,^„g^. provided for the purpose. Great care must be taken not to remove a cover or open the stove door while the broil- ing is going on, or the smoke will rush up into the broiler. With care to avoid this, not a particle of smoke reaches the meat. Tlie ]]liite Mountain Freezer. — This freezer is the best in the market, and M'ill give satisfaction to every purchaser. It has three motions. The center beater shaft has lifter arms, or floats, which mix the cream in the middle, turning oppo- site the outside beater. The outside beater scrapes the cream off the can and has floats extending to inside beater, which throws the cream to the center, when it is thrown back by the inside beater to the outside, the can in the meantime turning in an opposite direction making threb similtaneous motions, thus mixing the cream thoroughly and evenly. These beaters are of maleable iron and coated with pure block tin. Single beater Freezers do not mix the cream evenly because there is no opposite motion, and the cream goes around with the beater. It is the same principle of rinsing by putting your iiuuds into a pail of water and movmg it around, the water goes with the hand for the reason there is no op-posite obstruction to prevent. In the Tripple Motion Freezer the arms or floats pass each other and the cream must be better worked. The beater, are light and easy to clean, but single beater freezers have large beaters, which fill up the can and are hard to clean, and must necessa- rily waste cream. This freezer has no large surfaces of zinc in contact with the cream, but tin instead. Families especially look to this, as freezers put away damp, will, when dry, show oxide of zinc, which is a well-known poison. 1002 KITCHEN WRINKLES. The can is moved from the bottom, and while at work the cover can be removed, showing its operation clearly. Other freezers are so constructed that the cover actuates the can, and cannot be removed while working. The cover of the White ^Mountain Freezer does not have to be adjusted to a particular place, but fits anywhere upon the can, and being loose can be taken oft' easily witliout pulling the can out of the ice. Soldering Liquid. — In soldering tin-ware, especially in unending old ware, the use of soldering liquids will greatly help. There are several of these. The best is made as follows : Get any convenient vial about half tuU of mui riatic acid ; procure at the tin shop some scraps of sheet zinc ; if you have no strong shears, let the tin-smith cut the zinc in strips narrow enough to enter the vial. Place the vial out doors, or under ashed, and add a strip or two of zinc. A great bubbling or boiling will take place as the zinc dissolves. As one piece of zinc dissolves add another, and wlien a piece remains without any action or bubbling of the liquid, it is done. Fit to the lower end of the cork a piece of stick to reach into the liquid ; after the liquid is perfectly quiet, cork it. In soldering, wet the place where the solder is to go, with this liquid ; the drop or two that the stick will take up is enough. L)o not get this liquid on the clotliing, or on the skin, as it may irritate it and make it feel very rough. Dish Cloths, Wipers, Table Linens, Etc. — Roller towels for the hands bhould be marked Avith the number of each, and also with the whole num- ber; as 1-6, 2-(i, etc., where the whole number is six. This shows at once the whole number to be accounted for, and also makes it easy to use them in rotation, so that they may be worn equally. Of dish cloths, of which there should be six — two for the best dishes, two for greasy, and two for pots and kettles, the first two may be marked, "B-1-2" and "B-2-2;" the second two, "G-1-2" and G-2-1 ;" the third, "P-1-2" and ••P-2-2." Wfping towels, of which there should be six, two to be used each week, washing every day, may be mr'rked in a similar way, which is equally good for napkins, table cloths, cluhis for silver, etc. Never buy new clothfor dish cloths or wipers ; buy Stevens' crash (or any other linen crash) for towels ; when worn soft, take for dish-cloths and wipers ; keep whole for dish wipers, and cut one of a yard in length into three, hem and place in kitchen for dish-cloths, you thus have one for pots and kettles, one for dishes, and one to wipe a knife, fork or spoon that you may be using while cooking, for the wipers should never be used for this purpose. Watrr. — Pure water is as necessary to health as pure air. Rain-water, filtered to remove any foreign matters caught from the roof or in the smoky atmosphere, is the purest attainable. It is a debatable question whether the mineral niatters held in solution in hard water are injurious to health, but vegetable or animal matters are agreed by all chemists to be injurious, and, in many cases, rank poisons, breeding fatal fevers, and other violent diseases. Water that is at all doubtful, should be boiled before drinking, as the vege- table and animal matters are thus destroyed, and the mineral deposited on the bottom of the kettle. Wells, even in the country, are very doubtful sources from which to procure a supply of pure water. In cities the sources of well-snjjply are almost invariably poisoned by the numerous cesspools, vaults and drains that filter through the earth until they reach the under- ground streams of water, poisoning them as surely as they would a surface stream or pond. When it is remembered that all water in wells must come first from the surface, and that it dissolves all sorts of filth as it passes into the earth, carrying a good deal with it, particularly if the soil is sandy and porous, it will be readily understood that wells are apt to furnish impure KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1003 water as surely as if they scattered arsenic. Wells should be covered to ex- clude all leaves and vegetable matter. The ground should slope away from the well so as to carry away surface water, and it should be located as far as possible from barns and out-buildings where filth accumulates. There are various good filters in the market, but one may be easily and cheaply made jas illustrated: Take a large flower pot, and insert a sponge in the hole in the bottom, fill the pot with alter- nate layers of sand, charcoal, and small pebbles. The flower pot thus filled up may then be placed on a jar or other convenient vessel, into which the water can be re- ceived as it filters through. Never use hot water drawn from a lead pipe, but take the cold and heat it on the stove. To Cleanse Filters. — In order to be safe and efficient, a filter requires cleansing every few weeks or months according to the amount of water fil- tered and its quality. When ordinary cistern water is used, a filter should not be used longer than six months without cleansing, and if a large amount of water is used, not more than half that time. The sponge should be cleansed and scalded at least two or three times a week. The charcoal should be renewed every time a filter is cleansed. Fresh charcoal may be Used or the old may be renewed by heating to redness in a close vessel, ex- cluding air. The gravel and sand and the inside of the filter vessel reser- voir for filtered and unfiltered water, should be thoroughly cleansed when- ever the filter is taken apart for cleansing. The surest wa3' to secure thoi^ Ough cleansing is to boil the gravel and sand in a large kettle or wash boiler for half an hour, rinsing out the filtering vessels with boiling water. After rinsing all well with clean water, wash everything with a strong solution of permanganate of potash and caustic potash. A solution of the permanganate and four of crude caustic potash in a pailful of water will be sufficient for an ordinary filter. If the permanganate solution becomes brown by the wash- ing more must be used, until a pinkish color remains when the gravel is rinsed. This will indicate that all impurities are removed. A few gallons of water will suffice to rinse away the remains of the permanganate, and the filter may be repacked as before, with fresh charcoal as directed. The closer the filtering medium if packed, the slower the water will filter through, but the more perfect will be the purification. o How to Kindle A Coal Fire. — Hard coal will not ignite until it is thor- oughly heated through and through, and as small coal will not require as much wood to heat it up as large, it is important, where the supply of kindling wood is limited, that the pieces of coal which touch the wood should be small. As wood in cities is more expensive than coal, economy suggests the use of as little as practicable. The coal, then, for kindling, should not only be as small as a pigeon's egg, called "chestnut coal" by the dealers but to economize the wood, the pieces should not be over four inches jong, so that they can be laid compactly, and the heat more concentrated on a given point of coal, and thus the sooner heat it through. If the wood is thus placed, and is covered with one layer of chestnut coal, it will redden with great rapidity and certainty. Now cover the reddened coal with an- other layer or two, and in a minute or two put on the large size. Put a handful of shavings or paper in a grate compactly, then some splinters of dry wood, not larger than the little finger, and outside of that a layer of pieces an inch or more thick and three oi? four long ; apply a match to the paper, and while it is catching put on small coal as above, and there will not be a failure during the winter, nor a growl in the household, for the 1004 KITCHEN WRINKLES. want of a good and timely fire. To lessen a coal fire, press it from the top, so as to make the mass more compact, giving less room for air. To revive it, lay on small pieces tenderly ; put on the blower, and when red, add larger pieces, and riddle out from below. Heaping on more coal, or letting out the ashes below, will certainly put out a low coal fire. Hovj To Use Coal Economically. — The Scientific American says: There is a great want of intelligence regarding the burning of coal, and it is not to be expected that servants should know how to save it. The grate or range is stuffed so full that the oven-top is loaded with it, so the fire will not die out or need looking after ; then the draft is opened, and the monev, or what is the same, the heat, goes flying up the chimney. With a little "forethought all this could be prevented, and a ton of coal made to last three months instead of one. A good bright fire can be steadily maintained with coal, with less trouble than with any other kind of fuel, but not bv raking, poking, and piling in green fuel continually. After breakfast the fire" should be cleared of ashes, if there are any, and fresh fuel put on to fill the grate moderately. Let the oven damper be turned up so as to heat it, and leave the small top door open, more or less, according to the intensity of heat required. In this way air en- ters over the top of the fire, and maintains a far better combustion, and con- sequently greater heat than when the draft-dampers are thrown down. A washing can be done, or "ironing" accomplished with one-third less coal than is generally thought necessary to use. There is also great waste in throwing away hah'-burned coal under the impression that it is cinders. One who has experimented with coal for twenty years, both in the house and un- der the boiler, writes : In cleaning the grate in the morning you will find there is a quantity of unburned coal, which has been externaHy" subjected to combustion. It is covered with ashes, and looks to the inexperienced eye like cinder. It is often relentlessly dumped into the ash-box. The fact, "in many cases, is, that the lump is only roasted on the outside, not even coked, and is in a better condition for igniting than the fresh coal. We have stated that coal is a cowc/cn.sfrf form of carbon. The superficially burned lumps, found in our grates or among our ashes, sufficiently prove this. But take a lump of anthracite coal from the fire, red-hot and all alive, throw it into the water until the ashes are washed from it, and it is black externally and cool. Take it out and break it open with a hammer, and you will find it red-hot and glowing inside. This shows that time, and a pleantiful 8upi)lly of air are necessary to burn coal, and that large amounts of what we call ashes and cinders are really excellent fuel. To prove this fact, let any one Carefully sift his ashes, throwing out the inevitable slate, which can be readily detect- ed, and start his coal fire on wood or charcoal, kindling his coal fire "with the savings. He will find that he can get a good bed of incandescent coal sooner tlian with green coal on the kindlings. Never, whether rich or poor, sufier cinders or unburned bits of coal to be wasted in the ash-barrel. Measure for measure, they are worth more than coal. Save them, soak them, try them. AVater renovates the coke, and wet cinders upon a hot coal fire willmake it hotter, and keep it so longer than fresh coal. Saving cinders is not mean- ness, it is economy. Flavoring Extracts, Fruit Juices, etc. — The following directions for the preparation at home of extracts, etc., are contributed by a trustworthy and reliable dealer, and mav be relied upon. Of flavoring extracts put up for the general market, almond and peach are seldom pure, and are sometimes even poisonous. The other kinds are less liable to be adulterated. To prepare Vai^illa, take one ounce of fresh vanilla beans, cut fine, and rub thoroughly with two ounces granulated sugar, put in a pint bottle, and pour over it four ounces pure water, and ten ounces of ninety-five per cent deoderized alcohol. Set in a warm place, and shake occasionally for fourteen days. To make Va- KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1005 nilla Sugar take one pound sugar and one ounce Mexican vanilla bean. Cut bean very Hr^e, pound in a mortar, with the sugar, to a fine powder, like flour, sift it, grind the remainder and sift till all is done ; then bottle and cork. It will keep for any length of time. A wire sieve will allow the seeds of the bean, which show the purity of the flour, to pass through with the powdered sugar. JFor Lemon, cut in small pieces the rinds of two lemons put in a four-ounce bottle and fill with deoderized strong alcohol, set in a warm place for a week ; then put two drams fresh oil of lemon, four ounces of deodorized strong alco- hol, and the juice of half a lemon, in a bottle of sufficient size to holdall; then strain in the tincture of lemon peal. To make Orange, use the rind and oil of orange, as directed for lemon. To make Hose, put one ounce of red rose leaves in one pint of deodorized alcohol, let stand eight days ; press out the liquid from the leaves, and add it to a half dram of otto of roses. Oils must be fresh and pure, or the extract will have a turpentine taste; and always use deodorized alcohol. For fruit juices, select ripe fruit, press out juice, and strain it through flannel ; to each pint of juice, add six ounces pure granulat- ed sugar, put in a porcelain kettle, bring to boiling point, and bottle while hot, in two or four ounce bottles. Canned fruit juice -may be used in the same way. These juices are a perfect substitute for brandy, wine, etc., in all puddings, and sauces, etc. To filter water and alcoholic solutions (not syrups) pass through filtering paper, folded in conical form, so as to set into a funnel (a half-pint glass funnel is best.) The paper is kept at all drug stores. Flour and Bread. — A wonderful advance has been made in the manu- facture of flour. Before the discovery of the gradual reduction or "New process" in milling, white flour contained but a part of the nutriment of the wheat kernel, the starch remaining, while the muscle-making and brain-feeding gluten went into the bran and other waste products and was sold for feed. Winter wheat was then used for the best grades of flour, the small, dark and hard kernels of the Northern grown Spring wheat mak- ing so dark a flour that it was only sold as an in- ferior grade. The introducing the "new process" by which the grain is gradually reduced to flour by passing through a set of steel rollers, each of which crushes the grain a little finer than the last, not only revolutionized milling, but produced from the heretofore despised Spring wheat, the finest fiour in the world which sells in all markets at the highest price, makes finer bread and several loaves more to the barrel than the best product of Winter wheat. In the day of Graham, who advocated unbolted flour, it was true that the loaf of white bread did not contain much of the most valuafble nutrition of the wheat. The white flour of modern milling does contain all that is valuable. The bran left by the "new pro- cess" contains Ifttle that is valuable in anj^ way as food. The only advant- age gained by eatfng corn bread, is the evidence of concentrated food, but fruit and vegetables would supply the bulk required much bet- ter than the harsh and flinty and, to many, irritating particles of bran. Modern white flour possesses a much larger proportion of phosphates and gluten uhan the old fashioned Graham ; indeed more than the wheat itself. There is, however, a great difference of opinion as to the comparative merits of bread made from fine flour, and Graham, or whole wheat flour. The latter is consid- ered best for persons who lead sedentary lives, as the coarse par- ticles stimulate the digestive organs, causing the fluids to flow more freely; while for those who follow active, out of door pursuits the New Process flour is probably best as being more nutritious and^ economical, be- cause wholly digested. ^co' 1006 KITCHEN WRIXKLEl?. This "new process" of milling was first perfected in this country at Min- neapolis, Minnesota, the mills of which now have a capacity of 35,000,000 bushels of wheat annually, and the brands of Minneapolis flour are known in every market in the Avorld as the best. Nearly a million and a cjuarter barrels of flour are being exported yearly. The wheat from whit-h this flour is made is the hard S])ring wheat, raised in the extreme North, that raised soutli of Minnesota and Dakota being inferior, and most of it not available for the best grades, while that raised on the line of the Northern Pacific, and in the ricli valley of the Red Eiver of the North, makes the very highest grades of flour. This hard wheat is first passed through rollers and mashed ; then to stones, which are run at alow rate of speed, and so dressed that the grinding is nearly all done near the outer edge of the stone, the "runner" being set high, so as not to heat the flour, but to leave it in hard, sharp globules. From this stone it is conveyed to a series of bolts, where the bran is separated, the softer and finer particles being passed through and put up as lower grades of flour, known as "All-Wheat Flour." The coarser particles and "midlings" are sep- arated by this process, and conveyed to the purifiers, where they are thor- oughly cleaned of all Vran and im])urities ; after which, they go to the stones to be reground and rebolted, and thus made into the "New Process Flour." These middlings are mainly from the outer portion of the kernel, which lies immediately below the flinty and worth- less husk (which goes off in Jjran) and is rich in the nutri- tious gluten — the nitrogenous principle of wheat which makes it rank first as a "force producing" food. Before the introduction of this process, the stones were driven at a high rate of speed, and the wheat thoroughly ground by the first run through the mill, the flour coming out quite hot, and much of its strength lost by the heating. The comparative rate of speed may be known by the fact that only five l)ushels are ground per hour by the new process ; while, with the old, from fifteen to eighteen would have been consumed. By the old process, the "middlings" made a second rate dark flour; by the new, it is transfoumed into the best known to the trade. That this flour is the most economical for use, there is no doubt among those who have tried it. The hard spring wheat nuikes a much stronger flour than any of the soft varieties of spring or winter wheat, because it contains a larger portion of glutten and less starch ; and a given quantity will make from fifteen to twenty per cent, more loaves of bread of the same size and weight than the best winter wheat flour. This fact is what has given Min- nesota bakers' grades their popularity. Another advantage possessed by this flour, especially for family use, is that bread from it does not become stale and dry as soon as that made from winter wheat, but retains its mois- ture and good table qualities much longer. The following in regard to the New Process Flour is from George H. Christian, Esq., who has spent years in studying the best methods in use in this C(juntrv and Europe, and is the largest manufacturer in the United States. "In regard to the economy of the New Process Flour, made from Min- nesota spring wheat, it is claimed, and I believe has been establislied, that the best qualities will make forty or fifty pounds of bread to the barrel more than flour from the best quality of winter wheat. This is explained by its superior atfinity for water whicli, being held in that much greater quantity in the bread, insures its keeping moist for a longtime. The authorities ^ive the chemicaF analysis as I'O parts glutten, 50 parts starch, 10 parts dextrme, glucose, etc., 5 parts salts, fatty material, etc., and 15 parts water, for flour made from the best Minnesota spring wheat by the new process. The above percentage of glutten is nearly double that of flour made from the soft vari- KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1001 eties of wheat (that of Minnesota is of the hard). Gluten is the most im- portant compound of flour, and is the substance which renders the dough firm, and gives it sufficient consistency to hold the gases, generated by fer- mentation, long enough to make it rise well, and ensure a light palatable bread. It is well known also that bread from spring wheat is sweeter. The percentage of gluten in New Process Flour is more than in flour made of the same wheat by the old process." In the process of modern milling, not only is every foreign substance re- moved from the wheat, but every individual kernel is rubbed clean by an ingenious arrangement of brushes, which scours away every particle of dirt that adheres to it. There is probably no article of food required in housekeeping so absolutely and perfectly clean and pure as flour as it comes from the mill. Dishonest dealers may adulterate it, but it ought not to be difficult to bring it in unbroken packages with the brand of the mill on them as a guarantee of purity, as most mills now put the flour up in neat half bar- rels for family use. Another flour which makes palatable and.wholesome bread is made by a secret process and is called "White Wheat Flour. " It is of a golden brown color, and makes a handsome loaf, somewhat sweeter to the taste than the white flour. Much is claimed for it as a complete food especially valuable for invalids or children and is useful to build up the wastes 01 the body and in many forms of disease. It is used'in the same manner as the fine flour in bread-making, Graham flour of the old fashioned kind, as usually found in the market is unfit for food. It is made of the poorest quality of wheat, mixed with foul seeds, and ground in a crude way with none of the care and neatness which characterizes the process of mak- ing fine flour. There are mills, however, like those atDansville, New York, which make a specialty of Graham flour from selected wheat, and produce an article which makes a delicious and wholesome bread, not unlike but somewhat coarser than the Whole AVheat flour mentioned above. These various forms of flour from wheat, are used for making bread in the usual way, which in most families is and ought to be the "staff of life." Of many other preparations of wheat none has been made under appropriate heading before. Flour from rye and meal from oats and Indian corn are all rich in waste repairing elements, and an excellent and cheaper substitute for wheat kept in bread- making. The frequent use of either gives variety in the bread-sup- ply, and variety is wholesome and appetizing in bread as well as other table supplies. The proportion of gluten in wheat, and consequently in flour, varies greatly in different varieties. Flour in which gluten is abundant will absorb much more liquid than that which contains a greater proportion of starch, and consequently is stronger; that is, will make more bread to a given quantity. Gluten is a flesh-former, and starch a heat-giver, in the nutritive processes of the body. Flour containing a good proportion of gluten remains a. compact mass when compressed in the hand, while starchy flour crumbles and lacks adhesive properties. Neither gluten or starch dissolve in cold water. The gluten is a grayish, tough, elastic substance. In yeast-bread, the yeast, in fermenting, combines with the sugar in the flour and the sugar which has been added to the flour, and carbonic acid gas and alcohol are produced. The gas tries to escape, but is confined by the elastic, strong gluten which forms the walls of the cells in which it is held, its expansion changing the solid dough into a light, spongy mass. The kneading process distributes the yeast thoroughly through the bread, making the grain even. The water used in mixing the bread softens the gluten, and cements ali the particles of flour together, ready for the action of the carbonic acid gas. In baking, the loaf grows larger as the heat expands the carbonic acid gas, and eonverts the water into steam and the alcohol into vapor, but it, meantime, 1008 KITCHEN WRINKLES. loses one-sixth of its weight by the escape of these through the pores of the bread. Some of the starch changes into gum, the cells of the rest are broken by the heat, the gluten is softened and made tender, and the bread is in the condition most easily acted upon by the digestive fluids. Cider Vineijar can be made easily and quickly if the following directions are followed : When cider is made, save the pomace and put it in tight bar- rels or hogs-heads, with one head out, and put in enough rain water to cover it. After it has begun to ferment, draw off from the bottom all that you can, dilute the cider with it, and nearly two barrels of vinegar can be made of one of cider. Do not till barrels in which the cider is to be made quite full, as there should be a space for air. Put into each barrel one or two pounds of bread dough, in the condition it is in when knecding out into loaves. Once a day, for a few wee"ks, draw out from each barrel a gallon of the cider and pour it into the bung-hole, so as to get air into it. A quart or two of molasses are recommended as a help, and beech shavings and brown paper are often used to hasten the acetic fermentation; but we tliinkthe bread dough is best. If the vinegar is made in summer, it may be made out of doors ; but late in the fall it should be in a room where the temperature can be kept up to 70 or f-O degrees by stove heat. For quick cider vinegar, fill a jug with cider, and turn into each gallon of cider a pint of molasses and a cupful of lively soft yeast, or Wo tablespoons of Brookside yeast. Have the jug full of the liquid, let it stand uncorked back of the cook-stove where it will keep warm. It will commence fermenting in twenty-f(jur hours, and will not take over a week to make splendid sharp vinegar. It must be drawn off into another jug, leaving the dregs, and kept in a tight-corked jug or bottles, where it will not freeze. The Brookside Yeast is made by sitrring together three tablespoons mash- ed potatoe tablespoon white sugar, level teaspoon salt and quarter of a yeast cake, soften sufficient to mix well. After mixing place in an earthen bowl or jar cover with a saucer, and place in a place of a moderate temperature, ready for i:se next day, but will keep a week or more in summer, and three or four weeks in winter. To make more take a tablespoon of above and add it to 1 hree or four times above recipe omitting the yeast cake. This is never failing and very easily made and kept. Corn Vinegar. — Boil one pint shelled corn in one gallon rain water till the grains burst, put in a stone jar with the water in which it was boiled, adding sufficient rain water to make a gallon. Add pint of syrup (sugarcane is best as it is not so likely to be adulterated) and tie a piece of cheese cloth, or two thicknesses of mosqueto netting over jar. Keep in a warm place one month, then pour off vinegar in a jug, putting in half the mother and it is ready for use. More can be made of same corn, by covering it with rain water, adding the half of the mother and a gill of syrup and let stand as above one month. Tie a thin cloth over jug of vinegar instead of corking it and keep in a dry place not too cold. This costs about seven cents a gallon and is said to be richer and better tlavored than the best cider \inegar and is equally good for most purposes. Economical Vinegar. — After washing the fruit, discarding all that is rot- ten, place the pealings of apples, pears, peaches or quinces in a stone crock. If you use any crab apples, put them in too ; boil pure rain water and pour hot over then\ ; if in cold weather they can stand several weeks then place in a porcelain kettle, covering them with water to the depth of two inches ; set on stove, let them boil for half an hour, strain through a cullender, let the juice stand until it settles, then add enough molasses to make a pleasant taste ; now pour it into the keg or vinegar barrel that has been prepared with a hole for faucet in the end of the barrel at the lower side, made the size of faucet ; it should be one inch from the stave, so that it can be easily cleansed KITCHEN WRINKLES. 1009 with a wet cloth wrapped around the finger and passed under the faucet. The bung hole ought to be in the upper side of barrel equally distant from each end. Take cork oi%t of bung hole, or if none in barrel make one, and cover it with a piece of mosqueto netting or other very thin material ; paste can be put around the hole, and the cloth put on it, or tack it on with small tacks — either will do, for you have to lift up one corner so as to place the fun- nel in when you wish to add more juice. Here in Minnesoto, many apples are used in the winter. All the pealings and cores can be saved, by placing them in a crock, pouring water over them, keeping them until crock is full. Then boil and proceed as above. Add one pint alcohol to eight or ten gallons of juice, or if you can get boiled cider add one gallon of that. If starting the vinegar in ihe fall while making jelly, marmalade, etc., save all the waste juices, place in a crock and add to the vinegar. If 5'ou can get a little "mother" from an old keg of vinegar, it helps start it more quickly, or put a cup of good sponge made ready for bread into a four gallon jar of juice, letting jar stand in the sun with a thin cloth tied over it for a few weeks ; then pour into keg. In putting the juice into keg let some of the settlings run in, as this furnishes yeast for the vinegar. If you have a large quantity of juice to start with, a good proportion is to eight or ten gallons of juice take one gallon of molasses, one pint alcohol. If at any time it needs more sweet, you can add molasses. Cold tea can be added, but never cofi'ee, as that makes the color too dark. After the meal is over, fill the teajiot with hot water, set on stove to steep ; when sufficiently steeped pour into the vinegar. The excellence of the vine- gar is that you know all the ingredients in it, and of every apple that is eaten the peeling can be used. Teach the help to save all the peelings when she makes apple or peach sauce, and even when one or two apples are pared save the peeling. A young housekeeper once had half a barrel of excellent vinegar, which her husband had brought from the store. As it was old and had many set- tlings in it, she thought she would cleans it, so pouring it out, she rinsed her barrel thoroughly with hot water, then strained the vinegar through a fian- nel cloth, and replaced it in the barrel. Some time afterward she drew out some of the vinegar, but it had lost all its good taste and was covered with a white scum. She was sorely vexed, but an old friend coming in at the time, told her she had thrown away the life of the vinegar. Had she kept some of the settlings (which is the yeast of the vinegar) and the mother, putting them in the barrel when she replaced the vinegar, all would have been right. Hap- pily her friend had plenty of old vinegar and gave her a pail of settlings and mother to add to the vinegar. In years mother will accumulate, so that it is necessary to throw some awa3^ In such cases always keep some of the large pieces of mother and some of the floating particles (a funny writer has called this the father), and some settlings to put in the vinegar, after it is returned to the barrel. While the vinegar is making it should never be more than half full ; after it is good vinegar small quantities of juice, either hot or cold, can be added until the barrel is two-thirds full. A better way is to have a second keg into which pour the fresh juices with a little molasses, (but no alcohol), and as the good vinegar is used out of the barrel it can be replenished from keg. Or, having no keg, draw off" one or two gallons or good vinegar into a jug for immediate use, then add the fresh juices, as you may have it, to bar- rel. By the time vinegar in jug is used all will have become good in barrel and ready for use. These things remembered and practiced will always in- sure good vinegar. Sometimes vinegar barrel will leak around the chine, when it is inconvenient to change barrel. To stop the leak, take equal parts of tallow (beef or mutton) and wood ashes. Mix well (in cold weather you may have to warm the tallow), then with a narrow bladed knife spread it around the chine, pressing it firmly into the crack and making it smooth on surface. This has kept vinegar from leaking for months and years. If 1010 KITCHEN "WRINKLES. wanted extra nice clarify molnsses by Jieating it over the fire and pour in one pint of sweet milk to each gallon of molasses. The impurities rise in scum to the top, which must be skimmed off before th^ boiling breaks it. Add the milk as soon as molasses is placed over tlie fire, mixing thoroughly with it. Gooseberrij Vinegar. — ^Yash two pecks quite ripe gooseberries in a tub with a mallet and add six gallons water, about milk warm ; let stand twenty- four hours, then strain through a sieve, add twelve pounds sugar, stir well, and put in nine-gallon cask ; if not quite full more water must be added. Stir the mixture from bottom of cask two or three times daily for three or four days, to assist the melting of the sugar ; then paste a piece" of linen cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, hat not in the sun ; any cor- ner of a warm kitchen is the best place for it. The following spring it would be drawn ofi" into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made. This will be found a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar. Many years' experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who have their own fruit. Let remain in cask nine months. Rhubarb Vinegar, — For ten gallons, take twenty-five ordinary stalks of rhubarb, pound or crush with a piece of wood in bottom of a strong tub, add ten gallons water ; let stand twenty-four hours ; strain off the crushed rhu- barb, and add eighteen pounds sugar free from molasses, and a teacup best brewer's yeast; raise the temperature to G5 or 6S°, and put the compound in a twelve-gallon cask and keep where the temperature will nof fall below 00°. Tn a month strain it off from the gromids, returning to the cask again, and let stand till it becomes vinegar. Sauer Kraut. — Slice cabbage fine on a slaw-cutter; line the bottom and sides of an oaken ]>arrel or keg with cabbage leaves, put in a layer of the sliced cabbage al)Out six inches in depth, sprinkle lightly with salt, and pound with a wooden beetle until the cabbage is a compact mass ; add an- other layer of cabbage, etc., repeating the operation, pounding well each layer, until the barrel is full to within six inches of the top ; cover with leaves, then a cloth, next a board cut to fit loosely on the inside of barrel, kept well down with a heavy weight. If the brine has not raised within two days, add enough water, with just salt enough to taste, to cover the cabbage; examine every two days, and add water as before, until brine raises and scum forms, when lift ofi" cloth carefully so that the scum may adhere, wash well in several cold waters, wring dry and replace, repeating this operation as the scum arises, at first every other day, and then once a week, until the aceteous fermentation ceases, which will take from three to six weeks. Up to this time keep warm in the kitchen, then remove to a dry, good cellar, unless made early in the fall, when it may be at once set in the pantry or cellar. One pint of salt to a full barrel of cabbage is a good proportion ; some also sprinkle in whole black pepper. Or, to keep until summer: In April squeeze out of brine, and pack tightly with the hands, in a stone jar, with the bottom lightly sprinkle with salt, make brine enough to well cover tlie kraut in the proportion of a tablespoon salt to a quart of water; boil, skim, cool, and pour over; cover with cloth, then a plate, weight, and an- other cloth tied closely down : keep in a cool place, and it will be good in June, Neither pound nor salt the cabbage too much, watch closely. an better to buy of the most respectable regular dealers in the neighborhood . than of transient and irresponsible parties. Apparent "bargains" frequently turn out the worst possible investments. If a dealer imposes on you, drop him at once. Meat should always be wij^ed with a dry, clean towel as soon as it comes from the butcher's, and in loins the pipe which runs along the bone should be removed, as it soon taints. Never buy bruised meat. When found necessary to keep meat longer than was expected, sprinkk pepper, either black or red, over it. It can be washed off easilj' when ready for cooking. Powdered charcoal is excellent to prevent meat from tainting. Meat which has been kept on ice must be cooked immediately, but it is jnuch better to place meats, poultry, game, etc., by the side of, not on, ice is it is the cold air, not the ice, which arrests decay. All meats excepi v^eal, are better when kept a few days in a cool place. Buying Beef. — Select that which is of a clear cherry-red color after a resh cut has been for a few moments exposed to the air. The fat should be )f a light straw color, of a firm and waxy consistency, and'the meat marbled throughout with fat. If the beef is immature, the color of the lean part will Toe pale and dull, the bones small, and the fat verj' white. High-colored, coarse-grained beef, with the fat a deep yellow, should be rejected. In corn- fed beef the fat is yellowish, while that fattened on grasses is whiter. Ir 1022 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. cow-beef the fat is also whiter than in ox-beef. Inferior meat from old or ill-fed animals has a coarse, skinny fat and a dark red lean. Qx-beef is the sweetest and most juicy, highly nourishing, and the most economical. That of the cow is nourishing but not so agreeable to the taste, but a heifer is always held in high estimation. The llesh of the ox of large breeds is best at seven years old ; of small breeds at live years. When meat pressed by the finger rises up quickly, it is prime, but if the dent disappears slowly, or remains, it is inferior in quality. Any greenish tints about either fat or lean, or slipperiness of surface, indicates that the meat has been kept so long that putrefaction has begun, and, consequently, is unfit for use, except by those persons who prefer what is known as a "high flavor". Tastes dif- fer as to the choice cuts, and butchers cut meat differently. The tenderloin, which is the choicest piece, and is sometimes removed by itself, lies under the short ribs and close to the backbone, and is usually cut through with the porterhouse and sirloin stakes. Of these the porterhouse is generally pre- ferred, the part nearest the bone being the sweetest. If the tenderloin is wanted, it may be secured by buying an edgebone steak, the remainder of which, after the removal of the tenderloin, is ecjual to the sirloin. The small porterhouse steaks are the most econimical, but in large steaks, the coarse and tough parts may be used for soup, or, after boiling, for hash, which, in spite of its bad repute, is really a very nice dish when well made. A round steak, when the leg is not cut down too far, is sweet and juicy, the objection being its toughness, to cancel which it may be chopped fine, seasoned, and made into breakfast croquettes. There is no waste in it, and hence it is the most economical to buj'. The interior portion of the round is the tenderest and best. Porterhouse is cheaper than sirloin, having less bone. Rump steak- and round, if well pounded to make them tender, have the best flavor. The best beef for a la mode is the round ; have the bone removed and trim off all the gristle. For corned beef, the rump and round are the best. The roasting pieces are the sirloin and the ribs, the latter being the most eco- nomical at the family table. They are generally divided as follows : Five* ribs, called the rib. this being considered the primest roasting piece. Four ribs, called the middle-rib, greatly esteemed by housekeepers as the most economical joint for roasting. Two ribs called the chuck-rib, — used for second quality of steaks. The bones of rib roasts forming an excellent basis for soup, and the meat when boned and rolled up (which should be done by the butcher), and roasted, is in good form for the carver, as it enables him to distribute equally the upper part with the fatter and more skinny por- tions. A roast served in this way, if cooked rare, may be cooked a second or even a third time. The best beef roast is (for three") about two and a half or three pounds of porterhouse. Two or three pounds is a great ]ilenty for three. There are roasts and other meats equally good in the fore-quarter of beef, but the proportion of bone to meat is greater. They are leg-of-muttou piece, — the muscle of the shoulder dissected from the breast. Brisket or breast, used for boiling, after being salted. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece, — used for soups, gravies, stock, pies and mincing for sausages. Shin, — for stewing. Mutton should be fat, and the fat clea^r, hard and white. Beware of buy- ing mutton with flabby, lean and yellow fat. An abundance of fat is a source of waste, but as "the lean part of fat nmtton is much more juicy and tender than any other, it should be chosen. The longer nmtton is hung before being cooked, provided it does not become tainted, the better it is. If a saddle or haunch of mutton is washed with vinegar every day, and dried thoroughly after each washing, it will keep a good while. In warm weather p(-q)p(-'r and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off flies. The leg has tlie least fat in proportion to weight, next is the shoulder. The least HINTS ABOUT MARKETINff. 1023 proportion of bone is in the leg. After the butcher has cut off all he can be persuaded to remove, you will still have to trim it freely before broiling. The lean of mutton is quite different from that of beef. While beef is a bright carnation, mutton is a deep, dark red. The hind-quarter of mutton is best for roasting. The ribs may be used for chops, and are the sweeter ; but steaks or cutlets from the hind legs are the most economical, as there is much less bone, and no hard meat, as on the ribs. For mutton roast, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haunch. The leg should be boiled. Small rib chops are best for broiling ; those cut out from the leg are gener- allv tough. Mutton cutlets to bake are taken from the neck. Almost any part will do for broth. As much of the fat should be removed as practicable ; then cut into small pieces and simmer slowly until the meat falls to pieces. Drain off and skim off any remaining fat, and thicken with rice and vermi- celli. Mutton is in season any time, but is not so good in autumn. To Select Hams. — The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, are those from eight to fifteen pounds in weight, having a thin skin, solid fat, and a small, short, tapering leg or shank. In selecting them, rira a knife along the bone on the fleshy side ; if it comes out clean and with an agreeable smell the ham is good, but "if the knife is smeared it is spoiled. Hams may be steamed, being careful to keep the water under the steamer boiling, and allow twenty minutes to the pound. "When done, brown slightly in the oven. Lavib is good at a year old, and more digestible than most immature meats. "Spring Lamb" is prized because unseasonable. It is much in- ferior to the best mutton. The meat should be light red and fat. If not too warm weather, it ought to be kept a day or two before cooking, but it does not keep well. It is stringy and indigestible if cooked too soon after killing. The fore-quarter of lamb,' if not fresh, the large vein in the neck, which should be blue, will be greenish in color. If the hind-quarter is stale, the kidney fat will have a slight smell. PorA-.— Great care must be taken in selecting pork. Dairy-fed pork is the best. If ill-fed or diseased, no meat is more injurious to the health. The lean must be fine-grained, and fat and lean very white. The rind should be smooth and cool to the touch. If clammy, be sure the pork is stale, and re- ject it. If the fat is full of small kernels," it is an indication of disease. In good bacon the rind is thin, the fat firm, and the lean tender. Rusty bacon has yellow streaks in it. Fresh pork should seldom be eaten, and never exce'pt in the fall and winter. Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is often despised because cheap ; but welfcooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the tip of the snout chopped oft', and put in brine ^a week, it is in-order for boil- ing. The cheeks are better than any other pieces of pork to bake. The head is good baked an hour and a half, and yields abundance of sweet fat for shortening. Tongue. — Beef's tongue, calf's tongue, lamb's and sheep's tongue, pig's tongue, can all be procured of the butchers, and they are all prepared in the same way. Calf's tongue is considered best, but it is usually sold with the head; be'eves' tongues are what is referred to generally when "tongue" is spoken of. Lambs' tongues are very nice. In purchasing tongues, choose those which are thick, firm, and have plenty of fat on the under side. In buying a salt tongue ascertain how long it has been pickled and select one with a smooth skin which denotes it being young and tender. Veal is best from calves not less than four nor more than six weeks old. If younger it is unfit for food, and if older the mother cow does not furnish enough food, and it is apt to fall away ; besides, the change to grass diet changes the character of the flesh, it becoming darker and less juicy. The 1024 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, with tissues hanging loosely about the bone, it is not good. Veal will not keep so long as an older meat, especially in hot or damp weather, and when going the fat is soft and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and inclined to be porous like a sponge. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint. It is usually divided into two parts, called the "loin" and the "leg". A loin must al- ways be roasted ; the fillet or leg may be dressed in various ways. When the leg is large, it is divided into two joints, and the thin end is" called the "kidney end," and the other the "thick end." From the leg is cut the "fil- lets" and "veal cutlets." The "knuckle of veal" is the part left after the "fillets" and "cutlets" are removed (the knee) and is best for soup or boil- ing. In the fore quarter the breast and rack admit variety in cooking ; the shoulder and neck are only fit for soup. Many prefer the "breast of veal" for roasting, stewing, pies, etc. It may be boned so as to roll, or a large hole may be cut in it to make room for the stuffing. The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, pies, etc. The leg is an economical piece, as you can take ofi' cutlets from the large end, stutf and roast the center, and make broth of the shank. Veal chops are nice for frying or boiling; cutlets or steaks for same purpose are more economical as there is less bone. Veal should be avoided in summer. Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition, in proportion to their weight, than beef and mutton, they are often prefer- red to these latter meats on account of the delicacy of their texture and flavor. , Sweet-breads, if properly cooked, make one of the most delicate dishes that can be put upon the table ; but some care must be taken in selecting them, as there are two kinds, and one kind is very much better than the other. One is found in the throat of the calf, and when fresh is plump, white and fat, it has an elongated form, but is not so firm and fat, and has not the fine flavor of the heart sweet-V)read. The heart sweet-bread is at- tached to the last rib, and lies near the heart. The form is somewhat rounded, and it is smooth and firm. The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Select the largest. There is also the lamb sweet- bread. However the sweet-breads may be cooked, the}' should be always first soaked for three hours in cold water, which should be two or three times changed ; then they should lie put into boiling water for half an hour or longer, if that does not make them firm ; tlien they may be dried in a towel, and pressed flat by putting them between two pans or boards, with a press- ing-iron or other weight on top. Another nice dish, and in dishes may be made of Calves-hrad ; in buying, purchase two small ones as they do not cost any more than one large one and contain a double amcjunt of brain, which is a very choice part of them. Grarae and Poultry. To preserve game and poultry in summer, draw as soon as possible after they are killed, wash in several waters, have in readiness a kettle of boiling water, plunge them in, drawing them up and down by the legs, so that the water may pass freely through them ; do this for five minutes, drain, wijie dry, and hang in a cold place; when perfectly cold, rub the insides and necks with pepper ; prepared in this way, they will keep two days in warm weather ; when used wash thoroughly. Or wash well in soda-water, rinse is clear water, place inside several pieces of charcoal, cover with a cloth, and hang in a dark, cool place, The most delicate birds can be pre8er\'ed in this HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1025 way. If game or poultry is at all strong, let it stand for several hours in water with either soda or charcoal ; the latter will sweeten them when they are apparently spoiled. English or French cooks, however, never wash poultry or game in dressing, unless there is something to wash off. With skillful dressing, none is necessary on the score of cleanliness, and much washing tends to impair the fine flavor, especially of game In all game and poultry the female is the choicer. Sportsmen who wish to keep prairie-chickens, phesants or wild fowl in very hot weather, or to ship long distances, should draw the bird as soon as killed, force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a string around the throat above them, sprinkle inside a little powdered charcoal, aud fill the cavity of the body with very dry grass. Avoid green or wet grass, which "heats" and hastens decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, force a piece of charcoal into the vent, and tie a string closely around the neck, so as to exclude all air, and make a loop in string to hang up by. Pre- pared in this way they will bear shipment for a long distance. Ducks. — Young ducks feel tender under the wings, and the web of the foot is transparent, and the beak will be brittle and break readily, those with thick, hard breasts are best. Tame ducks have yellow legs ; wild ducks, red- dish ones ; and in either case in young ones they are hairless. Geese. — In young geese, the bills and feet are yellow and supple, and the skin may be easily broken; the breast is plump, and the fat white; an old goose has red and hairy legs, and is unfit for the table. Wild Ducks, if fishy and the flavor is disliked, should be scalded for a few minutes in salt and water before roasting. If the flavor is very strong the duck may be skinned, as the oil in the skin is the objectionable part. After skinning, spread with butter and thickly dredge with flour, before putting in a very quick oven. Game — In pheasants and quails, yellow legs and dark bills are signs of a young bird, and the pins in a young pheasant are short and blunt. With the latter the cock-bird is generally prefered except when the hen is with egg. They are in season in autumn. Pigeons should be fresh, fat and tender, and the feet pliant and smooth. In prairie chickens, when fresh, the eyes are full and round, not sunken ; and if young, the breast-bone is soft and yields to pressure. The latter test also applies to all fowls and game birds. Plover woodcock, snipe, etc., may be chosen by the same rule. Choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws ; as that denotes they are young ; should these be blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, the animal" is old. Turkeys are in season in fall and winter, but deteriorate in the spring. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the skin is purplish when it shows under the skin on legs and back ; when good, they are white, plump, with full breast and smooth, black legs ; and if male, soft loose spurs, The eyes are bright and full, and the feet are supple, when fresh. The absence of these signs' denotes age and staleness. Hen turkeys are inferior in flavor, but are smaller, fatter and plumper. Full-grown turkeys are best for boning or boil- ing, as the flesh does not tear in dressing. Chickens, when fresh, are known by full, bright eyes, pliable feet, and soft moist skin. Young fowls have a tender skin, smooth legs and comb, and the best have yellow legs. In old fowls, the. legs are rough and hard. The 1026 HIXTJ! ABOUT MARKETING. top of the breast-bono of a young fowl is soft, and may be easily bent with the lingers ; and the feet anireeable aromatic flavor. The winter sweot marjoram used for the same purpose, is a native of Greece, and the pot- marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily. All of them are favorite ingredients in soups, stuffings, etc. Olives. — \ small sort can be bought by the keg cheap for sauces, etc., but for the table always use the Spanish bottled olives. Raisins should be bought in small quantities ; small boxes are best. Rice. — The Southern rice cooks much quicker, and is nicer than the Indian rice. •Saao.— The small white sago, called "pearl," is best. HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. 1033 Salt must be kept in the dryest place that can be found. The best for table use is put up in boxes, but if a quantity be purchased, it should be stored in a glass jar, and closely covered. When it becomes damp in the salt-stands, it should be set by the fire to dry, and afterwards reduced to fine powder again. Sa/ads. — For these procure mustard and cress, borage, chervil, lettuce, parsley, mint, purslane, chives, burnet, nasturtium leaves and buds, fennel, sorrel, tarragon, corn salad, dandelions, chicory, escarole, water cresses, green onions, celery, leeks, lettuce, very young spinach leaves, the tender feaves of oyster plant, fresh mushrooms, young^marshmellow shoots, and the fresh sprouts of winter turnips ; also radishes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage, very young turnips, green peppers, and fresh tomatoes. Salad vegetables which can be cooked and allowed to cool and then made into sulads, are po- tatoes, beets, carrots, cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, kohl-rabi, artichokes, string beans, green peas, asparagus, Brussel sprouts, spinach, dried haricot beans, Lima beans, lentils, and leeks ; among the fruits are apples, pears, oranges, lemons, muskmelons, currants, gooseberries and barberries. Spices and Pepper should be ground fine, and put in large-mouthed glass bottles, or kept in tin cans, in a dry place. Avoid bright red peppers, spices, and sauces. Starch may also be bought in large quantities at a considerable discount from the retail price, which, in a large family, makes a difference in the yearly expenses. The best starch is the most economical. Sugars. — Buy sugars for various purposes as follows : For baked custard, mince pie, squash pie, fruit cake, gingerbread, most Indian puddings, use brown sugar. For all light-colored cakes, icing, floating island, blanc-mange, merin- gues, whips, use powdered sugar. For pudding sauce, use powdered or brown sugar. For sweetmeats, jelly, and raspberry vinegar, use fine granulated sugar, and where only one sugar is used the fine granulated is best for all purposes. There is a great diS"erence between the fine and coarse sugar, the former being more economical as it dissolves much quicker and more readily. Vinegar, which is made of wine or cider is the best. Buy a keg, or half barrel of it, and set it in the cellar, and then keep a suppl)' for the casters in a junk bottle in the kitchen. If too strong, vinegar will eat pickles. White Pepper. — This is better to buy than the black. It is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the latter, from which it is man- ufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and rubbing it between the hands till the coats come ofi". The best berries only will bear this operation ; hence the superior qualities of white pepper command a higher price than the other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese. It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. The berries of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a bright-red color. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, they are spread out in the sun, where they become black and shrivelled, when they are ready to be prepared for the market. Dressing Poultry for Market. — Secure plump well fattened fowls. Dc not feed for at least twenty-four hours before killing. Scald enough to make the feathers come off" easily, picking both feathers and pin feathers oft" nicely. Be careful not to bruise or break the skin in any way, because it injures the sale. Leave all the entrails in, and head and feet on. Immediately aftei they are dressed, dip once in boiling hot water, letting them remain in about 1034 HINTS ABOUT MARKETING. ten seconds ; then dip into ice-cold water, allowing them to remain in the same length of time, then hang in a cool place where they will dry before packing. Ducks should be treated same as fowls or chickens. Pack in boxes or barrels in nice, clean rye or oat straw. Boxes holding from luO lbs. to 200 lbs. are the most desirable style of packages. Pack with breasts down, using straw between each layer. Be sure to pack solid, so they will not bruise on the way. Poultry pre- pared in this way will meet with a ready sale, while poorly dressed, sweaty (caused by being packed while warm) and bruised lots will not sell at any time. Large, fat, dry picked turkeys and chickens sell well. They kIiouM be picked at once after killing, and hung up until the animal heat is entirely out before packing. Remember, it is the appearance of goods that sells them. Nice, large, fat, plump turkeys, chickens, ducks, or geese, always bring outside prices. The best time to ship. — Any time after the tenth of November, so as to reach market by Wednesday or Thursday of each week. If sent for the holidays, they should arrive at least three days before Thanksgiving, Christ- mas or New Year's. Keep the largest turkeys for New Year's. Geese sell best at Christmas. Fuel. Wood. — A table showing the comparative value of various woods is given with the table of weights and measures. That cut from the body of a mature tree is best. Soft Coal. — The objection to soft coal is the dust that arises from it, and the unpleasant smell of the gases of combustion. There is a great differ- ence in the quality of soft coals from different mines, and it will be easy to learn the best varieties in the local market. Hard Coal. — Bad coal has flat, dull pieces in it which remain hard, heavy and whitish when burned, called "bone". If in a scuttle full of coal weighing twenty-five pounds, a half pound of these white pieces are found, the coal is not good. Coal is pronounced good if it breaks at right angles lirnily and with a bright fracture. If it shatters or is full of dull pieces, it is poor in ^ cts. 4 "Rump steaks" ; 16 cts. 5, "veiny piece" for dried beef and corning ; 14 and 15 cts. 6, sirloin steaks ; 18 cts. 6 & 8 Between these numbors over the thigh joint are the tenderloin steaks ; 20 cts. 7 The flank for curing or stews 6 cts., and in it lies the flank steak, best and juiciest steak there is ; when purchasing it do not have it scored as is usually done ; just remove fat and skin ; 12,i.< cts. 8. Porterhouse steaks, those lying next to tenderloin steaks being the best, of course ; 18 cts. Cutting the steaks in this way a part of the tender- loin, the most tender bit of the beef, lies in the sirloin, and a smaller part in the upper part of the porterhouse steak. The lower half of the cut gives us the FORE-QUAKTER. 1. Rib piece for boiling or corning. 2. Plate piece for corning ; 8 cents fresh. 3. Shank for soup bone, weighs 10 pounds ; 35 cents entire. 4. Lower part of the division are shoulder pieces for stewing and pot roasts ; 10 cents. Upper part used for same purpose, but better pieces of meat ; 12>2 cents. In the upper part of 4, between 4 and 8 is what is called the shoulder joint for soup meat ; 10 cents a piece. 4. In the end of 4 next 1, is the "shoulder clod" which makes No. 1 pot roasts ; 1232 cents. o. Rib roasts ; first cut and best, 15 cents. 6. Rib roasts ; second cuts 14 cents. 7. Chuck rib roasts first next to rib roast ana best, 14 to 15 cents. 8. Upper part, or next 7 are shoulder roasts generally used for pot- roasts ; 123^ cents. 8. Front part is the neck, good for stews, mince, corning and soup meat ; 8 cents. 9. The brisket, extending under the shank (3). This makes stews, braises, corned beef, etc. ; 8 cents. The fore leg which is bought for 35 cents, will make ten quarts of very palatable and nutritious soup and ought to be used far more generally for that purpose. The shoulder pieces may be bought for a shilling a pound, make excellent pot roasts, and in many respects preferable to round steak at 15 cenfs. The neck at 8 cents per pound, is the very best for soups, stews and mince meat. An excellent chuck roast may be cut near the neck at a shilling a pound. The price of this meat runs in an ascending scale from the neck to the ribs, but the nutritive value does not. CUTTING AND tTiaXG MEATS. lOB^ A — Loin, best end, for roasting. B — Loin, chumn end, for roasting. C — Fillet, for baking or roasting. D — Knuckle for stewing. E — Fore-knuckle, for stewing. F— Neck, best end, for roasting. G — Neck, scrag end, for stewing. H — Blade bone. I — Breast, for stewing. K — Brisket, for stewing. PORK. A — Back, lean part for roast. B — Loin, for roast. C — Bacon, to be cured. D — Shoulder to be cured. E — Ham, to be cured. A — Leg, for boiling piece. B — Loin, for roast. C — Rump piece, for roast. D — Chops, frying or broiling. E — Fore-shoulder for boiling. F — Neck, for stewing or roasting. G — Brisket, for stewing. Curing Meats. The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to un- derstand. Bv its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the sat- urated brine in place of the juice extracted by' the salt. In this way, mat- ter incapable of putrefaction takes the place of that portion in the meat which is most perishable. Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat ; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the substance of the meat. The last mentioned operation of salt as an anti8ep_ 1038 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. tic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent action of saltpeter on meat is much greater than that of salt, and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard ; but in small tiuantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also pre- vents the destruction of the florid color of meat, which is caused by the ap- plication of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that the application of salt and saltpeter diminishes, in a considerable de- gree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as pos- sible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat. In salting or liiekling beef or pork for family consumption, it not being generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a less quantity of salt and a larger tpiantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed, which could not be adopted by the curer of immense quantities of meat. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consump- tion. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect, with- out the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavor not agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture ; and, l)erhaps, now that sugar is much lower in price than it was in former years, one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed. Brine for Corned BeeJ. — To one hundred pounds beef, take eight pounds salt, five of sugar or five pints molasses (Orleans best, but any good will do), two ounces soda, one ounce saltpeter, four gallons soft water, or enough to cover the meat. Mix part of the salt and sugar together, rub each piece and l)lace it in the barrel (oak is best), having covered the bottom v.ith salt. When the meat is all in, put the remainder of salt and sugar in the water. Dissolve the soda and saltpeter in hot water, add it to the l)rine anef/ remain in the brine for three weeks, take out, place in a tub, cover with water, let stand Dvernight, string and smoke for a few days, if you like, hang it up to ceiling over the kitchen stove, or on a frame set behind the stove, turn round once a day so as to give all parts an equal exposure, and let remain for three or four weeks. Test, by cutting a piece, which should l>e well dried on the outside and free from rawness to the center. When dried, sprinkle with uround black pepper, put in paper sacks, tie up tightly, and hang in a cool (Irv, (lark ])lace, or put, without sacks in an emptv flour barrel, and cover closelv. Tongue may be pickled with the beef. Aher taking out the pieces for dried beef it is well to boil the brine, skim well and when cold jwur ov«r CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. lU39 the pieces of corned beef left in barrel. For a Boiled Brine ; to one gallon water take one and a half pounds salt, one-half pound sugar, half ounce each saltpetre and soda. In this ratio the pickle can be increased to any quant- ity desired. Let these be boiled together until all the dirt from the sugar and salt rises to the top and is skimmed off; then place in a tub to cool, and when cold pour over beef. The meat must be well covered with the pickle, and should not be put down for two days after killing, during which time it may be slightly sprinkled with salt. Boil and strain every two months, add- ing three ounces brown sugar and a half pound common salt, always letting ])rine cool before pouring over the meat. Some in placing pieces of beef in barrel slightly sprinkle each layer with salt. Spiced Corned Beef. — To ten pounds beef, take two cups salt, two cups molasses, one table-spoon saltpeter, one table-spoon ground peper, one table- spoon cloves ; rub well into the beef, turn every day, and rub the mixture in ; will be ready for use in ten days. Some add a table-spoon allspice and piece of mace. To cookboilsix hours. For a SpicedBrine, toone gallon boil- ing water add salt till it bears up an egg, quarter ounce saltpeter, half ounce each mustard seed, cloves, and mace, a cayenne pod, an ounce ginger and a pound brown sugar. Boil, skim and when cold pour over the pieces of beef. For English Spiced Beef, to a round of beef weighing twenty-iive pounds, take (jue ounce cloves, three ounces eachsaltpeter and coarse sugar, half an ounce of allspice, six ounces common salt, one nutmeg. The beef should hang two or three days ; then take out the bone, and if wished cut in two or three pieces, rub the spices and salt thoroughly together, and rub them well into the beef on both sides ; cover the beef, turn and rub it every day for two or tliree weeks. Wlien you wish to use it, dip it in cold water to' remove the loose spice ; bind it closely several times around the sides with a long strip of cotton cloth two inches wide ; put it in a pan with half a pint of water in the l)ottomto j>revent burning; cover the top of the meat with shred suet, and cover the pan with a crust half an inch thick, made of water and Graham or other flour, seeing that it adheres to the edge of the pan. Lay a brown paper over the crust : bake it slowly for five or six hours, and when'cold remove the paste. The gravy, of which there will be a large quantity, may be used in soup, in beef-pie or in hash. The place from which the bone was taken may be rubbed with fine chopped parsley, and sweet herbs may be laid between the skin and the meat. To make a more delicious dish glaze the meat and garnish with aspic jelly. Nice for slicing. Less saltpeter can be used if wish- ed, and twice the quantity of sugar may be used. Philadelphia Dried Beef. — For every twenty pounds of beef, take one pint salt, one teaspoon saltpeter and a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. Divide the ingredients into three equal parts, and rub them well into the beef on three successive days. The meat is ready to hangup in one week. It makes the beef keep })erfectly without being any too salt. Indeed, a trifle more salt might be added for those who like it quite salt. Stuffed Spiced Beef. — To twenty pounds of round beef take two and a half pounds of suet, chopped very fine, and mixed with black pepper until it is almost black. Mix with this one handful whole allspice, and one of whole cloves ; punch holes in the meat and stuft^ with suet ; sew up in a bag very tight, and cover well with a brine of four gallons of water, one and a half pounds of sugar, two ounces of pulverized saltpeter, and six pounds of com- mon salt. It is ready for use in three weeks. Boil well, and when cold remove the bag, and slice from the cut end. To Keep Meat Without Curing. — Hang the piece in a cool place, on the north side of cellar, and if the weather should become rainy rub meat with a 1040 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. little salt. Always hang with the cut side up as otherwise the essence of the moat would be wasted. In fall and winter meat may be kept quite a long time in this manner. If for any reason there is danger of tainting rub witli salt as above. Some rub either beef or mutton well with salt and put in a closely covered vessel and keep for months ; always turning the pieces when the cover is removed. Beef-steak for Winter Use, cut the steaks large, and the usual thickness ; have ready a mixture made of salt, sugar and finely powdered saltpeter, mix in the same proportion as for corned beef ; sprinkle the bottom of a large jar with salt, lay in a piece of steak, and sprinkle over it some of the mixture, as much or a little more than you would use to sea- son in cooking, then put in another slice, sprinkle, and so on until the jar is filled, yfith a sprinkle of the mixture on top ; over all put a plate, with a weight on it, and set in a cool, airy place, where it will not freeze. This needs no brine, as it makes a brine of its own. Thirty-five or forty pounds can be kept perfectly sw'eet in this w'a}\ Take out to use as wanted, and broil or fry. To Keep Meat Fresh in Hot Weather. — For a five-pound piece of meat take a three-gallon stone crock ; have some pans of skimmed milk that is turning sour, just getting thick ; put some of the milk in the crock ; then put in the meat; then put in milk till it covers the meat; now turn an earthen dish or plate bottom-up on the meat to hold it down ; fill the crock with the milk ; tie a cloth over the top, and set in a cool place ; it will keep five or six days in the hottest weather. When wanted for use, wash thoroughly in water, and cook in any manner desired. To Cure and Dry Beef Tongues. — For one dozen tongues make a brine of a gallon and a half of water (or enough to cover them well), two pints good salt, one of molasses, or one pound brown sugar, and four red peppers ; bring to a boil, skim, and set to cool. Pack the tongues in a large jar, and when the brine is entirely cold, pour it over them, put on a weight, let remain ten or twelve days, take out, drain, and hant; to smoke about two days, then dry moderately, and put away in a flour sack in a dry place. When wanted for use, boil six or eight hours in a pot filled with water, adding more when nec- essary so as to keep well covered all the time until done ; Avhen done, take out and set away to cool, but do not skin until needed for the table. Some add to this a half ounce snlti)cter and many think an ordinary sized tongue should remain in pickle about a month and be turned every day. If they are not oil and skim it, and, when itis cold, pouritover the meat, which must be turned frequently and basted with the jnckle. The hams should remain in the pickle at least four weeks ; the bacon three weeks. They should then be taken out anru\ a crust over it and prevent the smoke from getting into the little openings. and also prevent evaporation of the juices. T^et the smoke-house be ready to receive the meat immediately. Take it out of the tub after it has lain hah CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1048 an hour, and rub the bran evenly over it, and by sewing a covering of mosquito netting around the hams and shoulders the outside is kept cleaner. Some use only the mosquito sack without rubbing over with bran. Those who have very tender hams claim it is caused by hanging them two days after killing, then beating with a rolling pin and salting and finishing as above. There are a few other things that must be remembered in order to have the meat of a pleasant taste. The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but well ventilated; confined air, though cool, w.ill taint meat sooner than the mid-day sun, accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary ; first, to hang the pieces where no rain comes down upon them ; and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf or coal. As to the time required to smoke it, it depends a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath ; and whether the fire be large or small ; a month will do it the fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farm-house fire usually is ; but over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust ; great attention should therefore be paid to the matter. The pieces ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet ought to be perfectly dry. For York Hams, mix for each good sized ham, teacup salt, tablespoon molasses, ounce saltpeter ; lay hams in clean dry tub ; heat mixture and rub well into hams, especially around the bones and recesses ; repeat process once or twice, or until mixture is used ; then let hams lie two or three days, when they must be put for three weeks in brine strong enough to bear an egg ; then soak eight hours in cold water ; hang up to dry in the kitchen or other more convenient place for a week or more and they are ready to be smoked. Then hang up to smoke with the small end down- ward. Tongues may be cured in the above manner. Philadelphia Hams. — Lay hams to be cured on a slanting board, and rub with fine salt. Let them lay forty-eight hours ; then wipe oif the salt with a dry towel, and to each ham take a teaspoon of powdered saltpeter and a dessertspoon of coarse brown sugar and rub well to the fleshy parts ; then pack in a tub, skins down ; sprinkle between each layer with a little fine salt. In five days cover them with a pickle made as follows : To one gallon of water take one and a half pounds of coarse sugar. Let them lay five, six or seven weeks, according to size. Hang them up to dry several days before smoking. The pickle should stand and be skimmed, and must be cold. Virginia Hams. — Smoke the barrel, in which hams are to be pickled, by inverting it over a kettle containing a slow fire of hard wood, for eight days (keeping water on the head to prevent shrinking) ; in this barrel pack hams, and pour over them, after it has cooled, a brine made in proportion of four gallons of M'ater, eight pounds of salt, five pints of molasses, and four ounces saltpeter, boiled and skimmed in the usual manner. They will be cured in eight or nine days, and they may be kept in the pickle for a year without damage. To Cure Small Hams. — In the fall, about first of November, people in the country generally kill a good-sized pig, to last until "butchering time." To cure hams of such, first rub well, especially around the bone on fleshy side, with one-half of the salt, sugar, cayenne and saltpetre, well pulver- ized (same proportions as for corned-beef), adding a teaspoon of allspice to each ham ; put a layer of salt in bottom of cask, and pack in hams as closely as possible ; let stand three or four days, then make brine of the other half of salt, etc., and pour over meat, putting a good weight on top ; when it has lain three or four weeks it is ready for use. For Hams tvith Vinegar, rub hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or two to drain ; then rub in well the following proportions of sugar, salt, saltpeter, and vinegar. 1044 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. and turn them every other day To a ham from ten to twelve pounds, al- low one pound of coarse sugar, three-fourths pound salt, one ounce saltpeter, lialf teacup vinegar. Keep them in the pickle one month, drain and smoke over a wood fire for three weeks or a month. To Keep Hams. — For one hundred pounds of meat, take eight pounds of salt, two ounces saltpeter, and four gallons water; put hams in this pickle in the fall, keeping them well under the brine ; in April, take out, drain three or four days, slice as for cooking, trim ofi' rind, fry nearly as much as for table, pack in stone jars, pressing down the slices as fast as they are laid in the jars; when full, put on a weight, and when entirely cold cover with the fat fried out, or ■with melted lard and cover jar closely. Prepared in this way, they retain the ham flavor without being smoked. The gravy left from frying will be found very useful in cooking. When ham is wanted for use, scrape off the lard, remove a layer of meat, and always be particular to melt the lard and return it immediately to the jar. It will keep througTi the season. Any ham may be packed away in this manner at any time and some prefer to soak as for cooking, after slicing, and place in oven and only cook slightly, then pack and cover as above. Pickled Pork. — Some put it up successfully in this way, take a tub, larg- est at the bottom and tapering to the top, large enough to hold the year's supply ; when packed as it should be, the meat will not rise to the top, the slant of the tub holding it down. It should he packed edgewise, in regular layers, as solid as possible. After putting a layer of salt in the bottom of the tub and pounding down the meat with a maul, fill the interstices with salt ; then alternate layers of meat and salt till the tub is full. Fill up with pure water. If the barrel is sweet, the salt pure, the meat sound, there will be no damaged pork, nor will skimming and scalding the brine be necessary to have sweet pork the year round. For putting down a small amount in a stone jar, completely cover the bottom of a large stone jar (one that will hold five or six gallons or more) with salt. Cut side meat in strips four or five inches wide and pack in a jar on the edge placing the skin next the jar ; lay it round close as possible till the bottom of the jar is full, cover this com- pletely with salt, and so ou till the jar is full. Then make a brine strong enough to bear an egg, and pour over the meat till it is covered. Meat if put up this way will keep till late in the fall and taste nearly as nice and sweet as fresh meat. For Western Reserve Pickled Pork, allow the meat to stand until the animal heat is entirely out of it ; cut the sides into strips crosswise ; cover the bottom of g, barrel with salt, and pack in the pork closely edge- wise, with rind next the barrel ; cover each layer with salt, and proceed in like manner until all has been put in. Make a strong brine sutficient to cover the pork (soft water is best, and there is no danger of getting it too salt), boil, skim and pour into the barrel while boiling hot. Have a board cut out round, a little smaller than the barrel, put over the pork, and on it place a weight heavy enough to keep it always under the brine. If at any time the brine froths or looks red, it must be turned off, scalded and re- turned while hot. Never put Cold brine on old pork, unless you wish to lose it. In salting down a new supply of pork, boil down the old brine, remove the scum, and then pour it over the pork as above. Trying Lard. — AVhen the leaf lard is taken from the hog, it should be placed in a clean tub. If any pieces are bloody they ought to be placed in lukewarm water, letting them remain until thoroughly cleansed, then drain well and use with the other lard. The leaf lard can be cut up in pieces an inch square. Have kettle on fire on stove with a little water, to which add the (nit up lard, letting it heat gradually; stir with a wooden stick (hickory or maple) or a long handled iron spoon*. The fat pieces of meat, which are CUTTING AND CUEING MEATS. 1045 also used for lard, are cut in same manner, after taking oflF the skin, and added to the leaf lard in kettle. The skins should be laid by themselves to be tried out after the lard is done. "While the lard is trying, as soon as the water is all boiled out, which can be told by the clearness of the fat (when there is water, it has a slightly milky appearance) you can begin dipping off the clear lard and straining it into the vessels ready for its use (stone crocks are best). Some think the quality of the lard is improved by sprinkling over and slowly stirring in one tablespoon of soda to every five gallons of lard, just before removing from the fire. After adding soda, the kettle must be removed from the stove, and Avatched closely, and stirred constantly, as it foams rapidly, and is very likely to run over, and if on stove, is likely to take fire. Do not take out the pieces of meat until well done. Be careful not to let it burn ; it is very easily scorched just at the last ; when finished, the cracklings should be of a light brown color. A good way to strain it is to place a towel over a colander, dip the lard into it, when sufficient is in, two persons, one at each end, can twi«t the towel until all the lard is out. Put the cracklings in a vessel, dip out more lard ; continue this way until all the lard is disposed of. Set the jar in a cool place and stir it frequently with the wooden spoon, so as to insure the cooling of the center as quickly as the outside ; this prevents the lard from becoming frory in the middle ; or set the lard in milk pans to cool. When cold, cut out, place in jars and pour over it melted lard almost cold until it is smooth on top. When ready to set away place a cloth Uinen is the best) over it, with one or two inches of salt on top of cloth ; then cover the jar with thick cloth or paper, set in a dry, dark place. The web always needs to be soaked in lukewarm water overnight, then drained well, after which it can be cut up and tried with the other lard. It is used by the best housekeepers for clean lard. That from the smaller intestines, and the flabby pieces, not fit for salting should be thrown into lukewarm water and allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, and then should be tried by its6lf , and the lard set away where it will freeze, and, by spring, the strong taste will be gone. A teacup of water prevents burning while trying. The skins can be cut into pieces two or three inches square, placed in a large dripping pan and set in the oven to try out, as they apt to burn or stick to the kettle ; stir them often, do not let them burn. They yield quite an amount of fat which is always useful in a family ; then the skins themselves make good soap grease. To Keep Lard From Mold- ing use a tub that has had no tainted lard or meat in it; scour it out thor- oughly with two quarts of wheat bran to four of boiling water, but use no lye or soap. Fry the lard until the scraps are brown, but not scorched or burned ; remove from the fire, cool until it can be handled, and strain into the prepared tub ; when cold, set it away in the cellar. Lard dipped off as fast as it melts will look very white, but will not keep through the summer. No salt should be added, as it induces moisture and in\*ites mold. Brawn. — Split and nicely clean a hog's head; take out brains; cutoff ears, and rub a good deal of salt into head ; let drain twenty-four hours ; then lay on it two ounces saltpeter, and salt, for three days ; lay the head and salt into a pan, with just water to cover for two days more. Wash well, and boil until bones will come out; remove them, and chop meat as quickly as possible in pieces an inch long; but first take skin carefully off head and tongue ; cut the latter also in bits. Season with pepper and salt. Put the skin of one side of head into a small long pan ; press chopped head and tongue into it, and lay skin of other side of head over, and press it down. When cold, it will turn out. The head may probably be too fat; in which case, prepare a few bits of lean pork with head. Boil two ounces salt, pint vinegar, and quart of the liquor, and, when cold, pour it over the head. The ears are to be boiled longer than head; cut in thin strips, and add to it. Reboil the pickle often. 1046 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. Smoke-houxes.—Thiii is one of the nicest arrangements for smoking meat that a model farm can have, as it makes a safe re- ceptacle for ashes and also smokes meat when want ed; but a good and cheap smoke house quickly and easily made is t» dig a trench about three feet lonir. and one half foot wide, cover it with brick, and then dirt; at one end of the trench dig a hole about two feet deep, and large enough to set an old kettle or something to hold the fire, at the other end of the trench, place a barrel, (with top heads out), put a stick across the top, on which to hang the meat; cover the barrel with old carpet, or anything to hold the smoke in. Or take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and tix a place to put a cross- stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross- stieks, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain forty hours, and keep up a good smoke. SaHsage><.— To make these easily and perfectly a meat chopper is almost indisi)ensable. It is also of great help in ^ ^^ ^.^..^^ making mince-meat. ""^ """ Beef Sausages. — Chop very fine three pounds very lean beef with a pound and a half suet. Season with powdered sage, allspice, pepper and salt and force the meat into skins that have been thoroughly cleansed, or make into cakes. Bologna Sauxage. — Six pounds lean pork, three of beef, two of suet, four ounces salt, six tablespoons black pepper, two tablespoons cayenne pepper, two teaspoons cloves, one teaspoon allspice, and one minced onion ; or season to taste. Grind the meat ancl mix well with the seasoning; pack in beef skins, tie both ends tight, and lay in strong brine for a week, then change into a new brine for another week, turning them frequently. Take them out, wi[»e dry, and smoke them; rub the surface with butter, and hang in a cool dark place. Or take equal quantities of bacon (fat and lean), beef, veal, pork, and beef suet, grind together, season with pepper, salt, sweet herb's, sage rubbed fine, and spices if liked and sifted bread crumbs or boiler rice is sometimes added, though this is not done when the sausage is wanted to keep any length of time. Fill skins and prick them ; boil gently an hour, and lay on a straw or hang up to dry. Maybe smoked as above. An equal weiuht of ham, veal and pork, highly seasoned and boiled in casings till tender, then dried, makes very nice Bologna sausage also, and they are often made of beef and pork alone, using proportion of about one third pork to two-thirds beef, Season to taste and put up as above. A nice way of serving is to cut into slices not quite a quarter of an inch thick, skin them and lav them lapping over each other round a mound of parsley. This is of the nature of a salad and may be served with the cheese course or just after the soup and fish courses. CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 1047 Liver Sausage.— Boil pigs' livers, mince, and season with pepper, salt, cloves, chopped sweet marjoram and sage. Put in skins, prick them, and boil slowly an hour or so. Kee]) in covered jars, to eat cold in slices, or to fry in larger pieces. Boiled pigs' feet may be mixed with the livers. Mixed Sausages.— Clean cai'efully two hogs' heads, two lights, two livers and cut off all the good parts of a dozen melts ; soak overnight in a tub of sah and water with a half dc^zen sweetbreads and same nund:)er of kidneys splil open. In the morning put all in a kettle to boil with two slices fat pork ; when done cool a little :ind grind in a sausage grinder, adding some of the fat skimmed from top of k(>ttle. While grinding, season with black pepper, salt and finely choi)iH^d onion to taste. If not rich enough add more fat pork ; if stufi'ed boil again for a few moments. Pork Saumge. — A good rule is to allow one third fat meat to two thirds lean, a teaspoon each salt, pepper and sage to each pound meat, and a teas- poon each allspice or cloves, ginger and summer savory to every three pounds. Or season to taste, and when making a quantity it is well to test by frying a little, and add iDore seasoning if liked. When making for long keeping do not add either flour or bread crumbs, which are sometimes used to keep the fat from running out when cold. Put through a sausage grinder or chop fine. Press into thoroughly cleaned skins, or pack in jars, covering with lard or clarified drippings to depth of half an inch and tie paper over. For Buckeye Pork Sausage, to ten pounds meat take five tablespoons sage, four of salt and two of pepper. Some add one tablespoon ginger, and some a little summer savory. When nicely minced, pack in jars as above. If kept in a cuol i>lace, and care taken to replace the hird, there is no difficulty in keeping sausage perfectly fresh almost any length of time. 'Some per- sons ]>artially cook meat before packing, but this is not necessary. Fresh meat may be kept nicely in the same way, being firstseasoned with salt anrl jiepper. Or, one pound salt, one-half i)int of sage and three and one-half ounces pepper, scattered over forty pounds of meat before grinding. For Cold Siiri'd Saiisage, use small, well-baked, earthen j)ots ; take one handful of sausage after another, press firndy into the pot until it is nearly full. Tiieii place in an oven, hot enough to bake bread; bake a puarter of an hour for each pound of sausage; that is, if there are eight pounds, bake for two hour;- ; anone, keeping the edge of tlie knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is roceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to jiierce the skin of the second joint; the rest of the pieces are very easily boned alter the directions given for boning au entire fowl. Shrll F'Sh — The Oyffer is the most tT=rd of all slicll-fish and its prepar- ation for cooking is so simple that it is fully given in Shell-fish Department. 1 1 II rd-tihell Cribs are prepared for use the same as Lobsters. Soft-shell Crabs are alwaj's used alive and prepared for cooking as follows: Turn the crab on its back, lift up the apron, or pointeartridges are carved in the same way. The trail of a woodcock on toa.>^( is the choicest Tiit of the bird; also the thigh of a partridge. A fillet of veal is cut in thin, smooth slices off the top, and proportions of the stuffing and fat are served to each. In cutting a breast of veal, separ- ate the breast and brisket, anr, Shoulder of Mutton. and is to be cut in thin slices in the direc- tion of d. The under part contains manj' favorite slices, of different sorts, which may l)e cut crosswise in slices, near the shank bone at b or lengthwise in broad pieces at the large end a. If it is intended to reserve a part cold, the under parts should be served hot, as they are more palatable than when cold, and the upper part is kept more sightly for the table. Shoulder of Mutton. — ^Though commonlj' regarded as a homely joint, is by many pre- ferred to the leg, as there is much variety of flavor, as well as texture, in both the upper parts. The figure represents it laid in the dish as usually served, back upper- most. Cut through it from a down to the blade-bone at b. Afterwards slice along each side of the blade-bone from c to b. The best part of the fat lies in the outer edge, Shoulder of Mutton, Under part. Saddle of Mutton. Saddle of Mutton should be cut in long and rather thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning at each side close to the back-bone from a to b, with slices of fat from c to d, or along the bone which divides the two loins, so as to loosen from it the whole of the meat from that side which you then cut crosswise, thus giving with each slice both fat and lean. The tail-end is usually divided and part- ly turned up. Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the direction of 1 to 2. The most delicate fat lies al)out the part 4 and if cut in the line :] to 4 the two bones between which the marrowy fat lies, will be divided. Fore-quarter of Lamb. — Pass the knife under the shoulder in the direction of a, b, c, d, so as to separate it from the ribs without cutting the meat too much off the bones. Divide an orange or lemon, sprinkle the halves with salt or pepper and squeeze KnucKlt of Veal. For*-quart«r of Lamb. the juice over the under part, take to table and the carver should then divide ribs from d to e, serving them , or the neck f, or the breast g, as may be selected. Haunch of Venison. — Have the joint lengthwise before you, the knuckle being the farther joint. Cut from a to b, but be careful not to let 1056 CARVixc; out the gravy, then cut along the whole length from a down to d. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the ;.'ravy will he secured in the well. The greater part of the fat, which is the favorite part, will be found at the left side, and care must he taken to serve some with each slice. HauDch of Velrtson. Leq of Pork. — A leg of pork whether boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Begin aljout midway, l>etween the knuckle and tiie thick end, and cut theui in deep slices from either side of the line 1 to 2 IJam. — Serve it with the back upwards, sometimes ornamented, and generally hav- ing, as in P>ance, the shank-hone covered Leg of Pork. with cut paper. Begin at the middle by cutting long and very thin slices from a to h, continuing down the thick fat at the broad end. The tirst slice should be wedge-shaped, that all the others may lie cut slanting, which gives a handsome appearance to them. Many persons, however, prefer the hock at d as having more flavor ; it is then carved length- wise from c to d. Fillet of Veal. — Pare off the upper part one slice from the whole surface half an inch thick, and put it aside, then cut thin slice of l)oth lean and fat. The round and aitclf-bone is carved in the same way. In carving the first slice, if any one ]>refers the brown, it may l)e cut thiniu-r and divid- ed, and a portion served to each person wiio likes it. Round or Aitrh-bone of Beef. — These are Fillet of Veal. carved like a fillet of veal. The soft fat wnich resembles marrow, lies back of the aitch-bone, below c, but the firm fat should l>e cut in slender horizontal slices at a, and is much better than the soft when eat- en cold. Rnhhifg. — Put the point of the knife under the shoulder at b, and so cut all the way down to the rump, along the sides of till' backbone, in the limb, b, a, cutting it in moderately thick slices ;or, after remov- Round or Aitcu-bonc of heef. ing the shoulders and legs, cut the back crosswise in four or five pieces! hut this can only be done when the rablut is very young, or when it is boned. To separate the legs and shoulders, put the knife between the leg and hack and give it a little turn inwards at the point, which you must endeavor to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders nuiy be removed by a CARVING. lOOi upper flat on your plate cut the head in two. circular cut around them. The back is the most delicate part, and next to that the thighs. A portion of the stuffing should be served with each slice. The brain and ears of the sucking pig and rabbit are slso con- sidered epicurian tid-bits, which must not be neglected ; therefore, when every one is helped, cut off the head, put your knife between the upper and lower jaw and di- vide them, which will enable )'ou to lay the then put the point of the knife into the center and Winged Game and Ponliry. — The carving of winged game and poultry re- quires more delicacy of hand and nicety in hitting the joints than the cutting of large pieces of meat, and, to be neatlj- done, requires considerable prac- tice. The carving knife should be smaller and lighter and the point and handle longer than for meats. Roast Turkey. — Cut long slices from each side of the breast down to the ribs, beginning at a i from the wing to the breast bone. Then turn the tur- key upon the side nearest you, and cut off the leg and wing ; when the knife is passed between the limbs and the body, and pressed outward, the joint will be easily perceived. Then turn the turkey on the other side, and an^^». ^,^r?ntJJ5W'%s^3l^" - cut olf the leg and wing. Separate the drum- •raF M^'"'^^' -'^toOLT^-^) sticks from the leg bones, and the pinions from the wings ; it is hardly possible to mis- ** ^'^^^^^^^it^^ll take the joint. Cut the stuffing in thin slices lengthwise. Take ofF the neck-bones, which are two triangular bones on each side of the breast ; this is done by passing the knife from the back un- der the blade part of each neck-bone, until it reaches the end ; by raising the knife the other branch will easily crack olf. Separate the carcass from the back by passing the knife lengthwise from the neck downward. Turn the back upwards and lay the edge of the knife across the back-bone about midway between the legs and wings ; at ^^ the same moment, phice the fork within the lower part of the turkey, and lift it up ; this will make the back-bone crack at the knife. The croup, or lower part of the back being cut off, put it on the plate with the rump from vou. Boiled Turi^er, ^^^^^ ^^^^-^ ^ff^i^^ side-boucs by forciug' the knife from the rump to the other end. The choicest parts of turkey are the side bones, the breast and the thigh bones. The breast and wings are called lightmeat; the thigh-bones and side-bones dark meat. When a person de- clines expressing a preference, it is polite to help to both kinds. Boiled Turkey is carved in the same way as the roast, the onlydilferen<-e being in the trussing ; the legs in boiled being, as here shown, drawn into the body, and in the roast skewered. Roast Fowl. — Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone ; then with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. Take the wing off in the direction of a to b, only dividing the joint with your knife. When the four quarters are thus removed, take 1058 CARVING. off the meny-thought from c, and the neck l)une.s, these last, by puttinj: in the knife at (/, and i)ressing it, ■will break off from the jiart that sticks to tiie breast. The next tiling is to divide the breast from the car- cass, by catting through the tender ribs close to the l)reast, quite down to the tail. Then raise the lower end of rump anst morsels are next to the head, the thin part comes next, and the tail is the least esteemed. The flavor of the libh nearest the bone is not etpial to that on the upper part. T.l'TTKH .\X!) CHKHSK. K»50 13UTTER AISTD ClIEESK. No sloven r-an make good butter. The one thiufi to be kept in mind, morn- ing, noon and night, is neatness, neatness, neatness. Tlie milking should be done in the cleanest place that can be found, and the cows shoulil be kept as clean as possible. AVash the teats and udders thoroughly with plenty of cold water, and wipe with a cloth or towel. Never wash with the hand moistened with milk from the cow. The least impurity taints the cream, and takes from the sweetness of the butter. Milk perfectly clean (as the last pint is twice as rich in butter as the first), and the quicker the milking is done the more milk is obtained. The milk-room should be clean and sweet its air pure, and temperature about 62 degrees. As soon as a pail is filled, take to the milk-room and strain the milk through a fine wire-cloth strainer, kept for the purpose, and not attached to the pail (the simjile strainer being more easily kept clean.) Never alloiu milk to stand in the stable and cool, as it absorbs the foul odors of the place. The pans '(flat stone crocks with flaring sides are better than tin pans. In winter hot water should be poured into them while milking is being done, and poured out just before straining the milk into them) should be set on slats, rather than.shelves, as it is important to have the milk cooled from the animal heat as soon as possible. Skim each day, or at longest within twenty-four hours. Souring does not injure the quality of the cream, but the milk should not be allowed to become watery. In winter always put a little sour milk in bottom of cream crock at first skim- ming. Do not use a perforated skimmer, but remove a little of the milk with the cream, as this does not injure the quality or lessenthequantity of butter, and gives more well-flavored battermilk, which is a favorite and wholesome drink. It there is cream enough each day, it should, of course, be churned, and this plan makes the best butter, although it takes longer to churn it. If not, the cream should be set aside in a cool place, covered, and stirred thor- ou.":hly whenever more is added. It ought not to stand more than two days, and niust not be allowed to become bitter or flaky. The best plan is to churn as soon as it becomes slightly acid. Scald the churn and dash thoroughly, and put in the cream at a temperature of 58 degrees. The motion of the churn will soon bring it up to 6 J degrees. When the butter comes put a quart or two of cold, soft water (or ice is better) into the churn to harden the but- ter, and make it easier to gather up. After gathering it as well as possible 1060 ihtteu and ciikkse. with the (lash, it should be removed to the table or bowl, and thoroughl}- workcd with a flat wooden paddle, (never with the hand, as the insensible perspiration will more or less taint the butter), iisin^ an abundance of cold soft water to wash out the buttermilk and harden the butter. By this pro- cess the buttcfmilk is removed quickly, and there is no need of excessive working, which injures the grain of the butter. This is especially true of that which is packed, as it keeps longer when well washed. If to be used immediately, the washing may be less thorough. Another and better plan is to remove the butter to'a mar1)lc slab and lay on top of it a piece of ice. As it settles down bv its own weight, work it up around the edges with a paddle, and the water from the melting ice will wash out and carry off the butter- milk. Before or during the churning, the bowl (which should never be used for anything else) in which the butter is to be salted, should be tilled with scalding water, which should remain for ten minutes ; pour out and rub both bowl and paddle with hard coarse salt, which prevents butter from sticking. Rinse thoroughlv and till with cold or ice-water to cool. After washing but- ter free from milk, remove to this bowl, having first poured out the cold water, and (the butter bowl and paddle should occasionally be scoured with sand or ashes, washed thoroughly with soap-suds, and rinsed until all smell of soap has disappeared) work in gradually salt which has been pulverized by rolling, and freed from foreign substances. If wanted for use, one-half ounce of salt to the pound of butter is sufficient, but if wanted for packing, use three-fourths of an ounce or even an ounce of salt. Use only the best quality of dairy salt. After salting cover with cotton cloth soaked in brine, and set away in a temperature of about GO degrees for twelve hours. Work the second time just enough to get the remaining buttermilk out. Tliis. how- ever, must be done thoroughly, as otherwise the acid of the buttermilk will make the butter rancid. At the end of the second working it is ready for use, and should be kept in a clean, sweet place, as it soon absorbs bad odors and becomes tainted. The air of a cellar in which are decaying vegetables soon ruins the sweetest butter. In packing for market (tin lined tubs are the neatest and best packages) soak the package for twelve hours in brine strong enoudi to float an egg, pack the butter in evenly and firmly, having first put in a thin layer of salt. If the tub is not filled by the first jiacking, set away until the next churning, in a cool j>lace, with a cotton cloth wet in brine spread over the butter, and place cover carefully on the tub. "When filled lay over the butter a cotton cloth (from which the sizing has been washed)" soaked in strong brine, nail ud the tub, and set away in a clean, cool place until ready to sell. Straining Milk. — Do* not strain warm milk into cold ; it causes whey. Care of the Cream. — Stirring the cream in cream crock increases the quan- tity of butter. }yhUe Sjiecks in Butter.— The cream being too sour is generally the cause of this, as when the cream is warnKMl by churning it forms what is known as clabber cheese and that makes the white specks. Batter Rollers.— Two wooden i)addles made in form of engraving are diiy T)ed into cold water, and a little pat of butter placed between them and rolled around until a little ball is formed, Avith a i)retty net- work surface. This may be piled on the butterdish, or served on individual butter dishes at the plates. Testing Butter. — The following simple test for the detection of spurious and genuine butter emanates from good authority: Place a little butter on a cotton wick and set li'dit to it for one ur two minutes ; then blow uut the liame. The odor BUTTKR AND CHEESE. lOGl of the vapor is a good indication of its puritj^ or adulteration. If it be mixed with lard, the odor is more intense than if mixed with tallow. The artificial butter has less water than the natural butter. Creameries. — All housewives who make butter should examine immedi- ately the new inventions which substitute deep setting for the old-fashioned plan of setting in shallow pans. The new system is not only cleaner, but it produces as much and a better quality of butter, and does away with one-half of the hard work of butter making. Besides, the creameries, of which there are several good ones, take up but very little space, relieve the pantry shelves of the great number of pans required by the old way, and make a milk house unnecessary. They are not costly, and are great woman savers. Bright Butter. — In skimming cream ofFmilK there should always be milk enough skimmed off with the cream to give the butter, when churned a bright, clean look. Butter churned from clear cream with little or no milk in it will usually have an oily or shiny look. This shows that the grain of the butter is injured, which affects the keeping qualities of the butter. Keeping Butter. — "When in the granular state, if butter be washed free from extraneous matter its keeping qualiiies are far superior to that in wliich these elements are allowed to remain, even though in small quantities. When the butter is washed by a not very strong brine it is then possible for salt to preserve it, but if the matter remains salting will not benefit it, though con- cealing other flavors. AVhen butter is washed with the brine it is jaossible to churn, salt and pack at one operation, thereby saving labor. What To Do With Rancid Butter. — When butter has become very rancid it should be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and after cooling extract any water it may have retained, then put it into jars and cover closely. The French often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of toasted bread, which helps to destroy the ten- dency of the butter to rancidity. Butter in. Winter. — Heat the milk as soon as strained until a lif^-ht texture is formed on the surface, then set as usual. The safest way to'' do this is --llher in oven or in another vessel of boiling water. It is not necessary to let the milk stand more than forty-eight hours in following this method and the milk is good for many culinary purposes. If milk freezes before all cream has risen, skim as soon as frozen, putting frozen cream and milk in cream crock and then reheating the milk that is left, when more cream will rise. AVhen about to churn, place your jar of cream near the fire and stir often' turning the jar around occasionally. Churn slowly until the butter is nearly ready to gather. Granular Butter.-Writers on butter making now insist that the best churns are made without a dash, butter should be churned only until granules are the size of a grain of wheat, then draw ofi" buttermilk and rinse until water runs off clear, then take half pint coarse salt, dissolve in two gallons water l)or;r on butter and let stand twenty or thirty minutes, draw off and let drain well then take out, weigh, spread out as much as possible and sprinkle even- ly over it one ounce of salt to a pound of butter. Mix well but do not work gently press grains together and set aside twenty-four hours. Then work out all the water, but if a paddle is used be careful not to let it slide over the butter. After the water is all out every stroke injures the grain. Scour the 4 churn once a week with coarse salt. Keeping Butter in Warm Weather.— Work thebutter thoroughly to extract the buttermilk and pack in stone crocks to within two or three inches of the top ; cover with a cloth and fill up with salt ; put two or three thicknesses 10(52 BUTTEli AND CHEESE, of paper on top and a board over all ; dig a hole in the ground, three feet deep, in a shady place, in which place the crocks and fill up with earth. Brine for Butter. — In parking for family use, work into rolls, lay in large ytoue crocks, cover with l)rine strong enough to tloat an egg (one pint of salt to a gallon of water), in which a level teaspoon of saltpeter and a pound of white sugar to each two gallons have been added ; over it place a cotton cloth and a weight to keep tlie butter under the brine, and the paper over the top of crock. Or, pack in a stone jar, pressing it solid with a wooden pestle, cover with a cloth wet in brine, and sprinkle over it salt an inch thick. More sugar may be added to tlie brine without injury ; if butter is to 1m' kept a long time it is a good rule to always make brine so strong tliat salt will lie at the bottom of the jar. Some boil and skim the brine and when r Id, pour it over the butter. When ready to pack the next cliuniing, re- move the cloth with the salt carefully, rinsing otf with water any that mav Iiavc been scattered in uncovering it, paok butter as before, replace cloth V. ith salt <^)vcr it, and repeat until jar is filled to within two inches of the top, cover all with cloth, add salt to the top of crock, tie paper over the top, and set in a cool place. In removing for use each churning comes out by itself, or pack inlayers as thick as you wish for the table, put a cloth and salt be- tween each layer and nSTRY OF FOOD. hon, the rest water. It seems to be first converted into fat, and then used in respiration. In moderate quantities it has no injurious effects. A part of su^ar as ordinarily eaten passes into lactic acid, and aids digestion, but if too much is produced digestion is retarded. There are too kinds of sugars in commerce — cane and grape. The former is rnadc from cane, maple saps, beets, corn-stalks, etc. ; the other from plants ■whifh have an acid juice. Cane sugar contains twelve parts carbon to eleven of water ; grape sugar twelve of carbon to fourteen of water. Sugars are changed by fermentation into carbonic acid and al<;ohol, but grape sugar is most liable to such fermentation — cane sugar first becoming grape sugar by chemical combination with water. Pure cane sugar remains perfectly dry and unchanged in the air, while grape sugar attracts moisture, and becomes mealy and damp. Cane sugar dissolves more readily in water than grape, and hence tastes sweeter. Two pounds of cane sugar sweeten as much as live of grape. These facts give a hint to housekeepers of great value. Grape sugar, whicli is worth only two-fifths as much as cane, is used largely to adul- terate the latter. The fine, floury "powdered" sugar is largely grape sugar, and is not only of much less value, but deteriorates more rapidly than pure cane sugar. Brown sugar, after standing for some time, absorbs water from the air, and becomes grape sugar. It is, therefore, the best economy to buy the best white granulated sugar. There is another element of food which does not feed muscles, vegetable jelly, called pectine. This and pectine acid particularly abounds in fruits and berries, By tlie processes of ripening, the vegetable acids which are enclos- ed in little cells, burst out and diffuse through the mass of fruit, and manu- facture pectine or jelh\ Heat produces the same effect as ripening, and cooking is, in fact, only a rapid process of ripening. The jelly, when com- bined with sugar, goes to make up a variety of delicate articles, such as jellies and marmalades. They are nourishing, principally on account of the sugar they contain, but are easily digested, cooling and delicious. It should be mentioned that nearly all fruiits are rich in sugar, — a ripe peach containing as much as an equal quantity of cane juice. There are some other substances which appear in less quantity in foods which seem none the less essential to health and life. One of these is phos- phorus, which is the element of brain and nerves, and is wasted by mental activity and nervous excitement. The brain-worker demands a diet rich in phosi)h()rus, and in sucli a form as to be easily assimilated. The food that l)est sustains a laborer in the open air is not the best for those who live among the excitements and exhausting demands on the brain, that are the rule in city life. For the latter, eggs, iriost kinds of fish, oysters, lobsters, crabs, game, cheese, and among vegetables the potato; aiid these foods are just what are craved by city people' Another element is sulphur, which is required in the growth of bone and cartilage, the hair and nails. Of this there is so much in the yolk of an egg that silver is blackened by contact with it. Curd of milk and "cheese are also rich in sulphur. Iron is always present in healthy blood, and its absence — paleness — is an indication of illness. Most articles of food contain iron ; in the juice of flesh, in eggs, and in milk it is abundant. Lime and salt are also ingredients in all food, the former making bone, and the latter playing an important part in the creation of the digestive juices. Lime is found in all grains, particularly in wheat and in milk, in form of subphosphates. Bread and milk are for this reason an excellent diet for growing children, as they supply not only heat and muscle, but lime that goes to supply the growth of bone. .Salt also exists in many articles of food. I\Ien and races grow in proportion to their skill in combining heat and muscle-producing foods. The hardy Scotch use oatmeal largely, which is THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 1069 rich in nitrogen. The Irish, who endure a large amount of hard labor on cheap fare, eat potatoes, oatmeal, cabbage, and milk, while the lime and phosphates are said to be derived from the ''hard" water impregnated with lime. The English add bacon (heat-producing) to beans, rich in niti'Ogen, and to rice, which abounds in starch (carbon), and milk and eggs, which feed muscle. The Italian eats macaroni, which is principally starch, with cheese, rich in nitrogen. The use of chemistry in cooking is to teach how to supplement one kind of food by another which contains the essentinl elements which the first lacks. For instance, venison contains fifteen per cent nitrogen to fifty-two carbon, or as one to three and a half, while the ratio should be one to four or five. To make it perfect and satisfying food. M'e have only to supplement it with something rich in carbon, as wheat bread, oatmeal, potatoes, or rice. A farmer's dinner of salt poric and cabbage is nearly perfect for an out-door laborer in cold weather. The cabbage is rich in Tlitrogen and the pork in carbon. It is a proper dinner dish, because it requires four and a half hours to digest, while a supper may be made on venison, which is digested in an hour. Beef has fifteen per cent of nitrogen, but is not so easily digested as venison, and is fit only for a breakfa.st or dinner dish. Wheat bread does not contain nitrogen enough for a workingman's diet, and butter eaten with it does not supply the lack. Some kind of lean meat is needed to make per- fect food. The more active the life out of doors the nearer can health be sustained on a diet of lean meat only. Beans contain, next to meats, the most nitrogen, and are excellent food for laborers. The cabbage ranks next, and afterward come oats, wheat and barley. The potato contains seventy- five per cent water. An analysis of the dry matter shows one-tenth of it to be nitrogen, so that its nutritive value is nearly equal to wheat, while its great productiveness recommends it particularly to densely populated coun- tries. A dozen large patatoes are equal to a pound of flour. The onion is very rich in nitrogen, — one onion being equal to three potatoes of equal size in nutritive value. Milk contains all the important elements of food ; yet adults need solid food. Add to milk eggs, rich in nitrogen, rice and sugar, rich in carbon, and you have a nutritious dish, easily digested. Butter-milk is a wholesome drink, particularly in summer, as the nutri- tive power of the milk is but little reduced by the removal of the butter, while the sourness, due to the formation of lactic acid, aids digestion. Eggs contain a great deal of carbon, and are, for that reason, good food for cold weather. They are too concentrated for exclusive diet, and should be eaten with coarse food, or that which is composed largely of starch. In making cakes, the oil of the yolks of eggs used makes the perfect blending of lard or butter impossible, and hence unwholesome. For this reason sponge cake, which contains no butter, is less objectionable. Breads difi'er but little in these elements. Corn meal contains more oil and less niti-ogen than others, and oatmeal is richest in nitrogen. The easy blending of the elements, and the tough gluten of wheat, make it the most aA'ailable grain for bread. Wheat bread alone will support life longer than any other food except animal flesh. The proportion of nitrogen to carbon is one to five, which is nearly correct for a sedentary person. For active, out- door life more nitrogen is needed, and is best supplied by lean meats. The nutritive qualities of animals difl"er but little. Wild meats digest more easily than tame, though the time required varies with the age and condition of the animal. Flesh is a stimulating diet because it is force-giving and muscle-feeding. The animal has gathered from various sources and concentrated in its flesh the constituents which best meet the wants of our bodies in the most available form. Applying the knowledge of the wants of the body, and of the elements of food to a bill of fajre, and a wholesome breakfast demands strength-giving 1070 THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. and muscle making food. Nothing is more quickly available than beefsteak, and it is most digestible broiled. It is a diet for real workers. Eggs are nu- tritive, but less stimulating. These provide for the muscles. For heat, starchy food is demanded, but bulk is not desirable for breakfast after a long fast. Bread and cakes of wheat flour are best for the purpose, and fruits, raw or cooked furnish the mild vegetable acid, which aids digestion If cof- fee is taken at all, breakfast is the time, so that the stimulating effect may ■ ])ass away before the hour of rest comes. An infusion of genuine coffee, not a decoction, is not injurious in the morning to most persons, and is beneficial to those exjjosed to changes ot temperature. Nothing appeases the appetite sooner than the juice of flesh. The barley gives a color and flavor. Following soup is roast beef, which feeds the muscles, and after it come the puddings, which abound in carbon, to give the fuel necessary to keep up the animal heat. Last comes fruit to aid digestion, with its agreeable acids. In summer le.«s carbon should appear on the bills of fare, and blanc-manges, creams, fruit puddings and pies, berries, and ripe fruits should make up the desserts. In making a feast, the wise hostess would consider well what has been the employment of the guests. A party of fox-hunters, or wood-clioppers, or surveyors, would require an abundance of meats, but a collection of artists and scholars would relish better a variety of delicacies and novelties A sleighing party will devour carbon, but those wIkj have sweltered under a July sun long for cooling fruits and the leanest of meats. The time when a feast is given should decide whether food, easy or difficult of digestion, should appear on a bill of fare, though such consideration for the health of guests is hardly to be expected of the average hostess. A table of relative proportions of nitrogenous to carbonaceous elements in food, deducted from above hints may be of aid to many and has been kindly given us by a physician. Album or Nitrog. Carbonaceous. Lean beef 1 c o Eggs 1 1.5 Pease 1 2.7 Beans 1 2.7 Lentils 1 2.4 Milk 1 3.6 Fat Beef 1 o.O Oatmeal 1 2 grains of salisylic acid to six ounces of white sugar and one <\\\i\rtoi pure, soft, cold water. That fruit can be preserved for a long time in a frozen state, and even in a non-frozen state, so long as the temperature does not exceed 32 deg., is a well-known fact. But it is equally well known that articles so ]>reserved lose flavor every day after they are so" stored, and that when exposed afterward to an ordinary temperature they perish almost immediately. Jn placing fruit on ice, the main thing to ol)serve is not to pack it in any way or to wrap it in anything. It should be placed on a tray or in a tin box" with a ]i'hen the weather becomes frosty, cut them off near the head, and carry them, with the leaves on, to a dry cellar, break off superfluous leaves, and pack into a light cask or box, stems u j>ward, and when nearly full cover with loose leaves ; secure the box with a lid against rats, or if one has the spare place a rod or pole across the vegetable room near the ceiling, se- cure the cabbages with the roots on them and tie them, heads downward, to this, or nails can be driven in the posts and the cabbages hung on them. To keep them in the country, take up by the roots, set closely together in rows, up to the head in soil, roots down as they grew ; drive in posts at the corners of the bed, and at intermediate points it necessary, higher on one side than the other; nail strips of boards on the posts and lay upon those old boards, doors, or if nothing else is at hand, beanpoles, and corn fodder, high enough so that the roof will be clear of the cabbages, and allow the air to circulate ; close up the sides widi yard or garden offal of any kind, and the caV)bages will keep fresh and green all winter, and be accessible at all times. Exclude moisture but never mind the frost. Celerij — keeps well buried in dry sand, and when keeping only for a short time cut off the green tops when it comes from market, and it will not wilt so soon. An hour before ready to use some pack in crushed ice. Onions — keep best when spread over the floor or on shelves. Parsnips and salsify should be left in the ground all winter, unless the clinuite is very severe, when they may be buried in a deep pit in the garden, and not opened till March or April. To keep Parsley fresh and green. — Put it in a strong boiling hot pickle of salt and water, and keep for use. Hang up and dry in bunches, blossom downward, in a dry attic or store-room, for use in soups, stufhng, etc. Pease. — Shell, throw into boiling water with a little salt, boil five or six minutes, drain in a colander and afterwards on a cloth, until completely dried, and place in air-tight bottles. Some use wide-mouthed bottles, not quite filling them, pouring over fried mutton fat so as to cover the pease, and cork tightly, securing the cork with resin or sealing wax. "When used, boil until tender, and season with butter. Potatoes — should be kejit in a cool, dark place and examined once or twice a month, handling carefully. Some place them in heaps on cellar floor, or in bins, others in barrels with sand in bottom and on top. When old, and likely to sprout, put them in a basket and lower them into boiling water for a minute or two, let thrm dry and put awayin sacks. This destroys the germ, and the potatoes retain their flavor until late. THE CELLAR AVND ICE-HOUSE. 1081 Sweet Potatoes — keep well packed in dry forest leaves, and require a dry, warm atmosphere. Squashes. — Keep in a dry place, as cool as possible without freezing. Turnips — When buried in deep earth they will keep solid until March or April, or prepare a bin or box large enough to hold as many as may be re- quired for use, put in the bottom a layer of fine earth, then a layer of turnips, then earth, and so on till all are in, then cover slightly with fine earth, and the turnips will come out as fresh as when pulled, even if not taken out un- til spring. Vegetables. — Put into a vessel of any kind, and then pour on a solution of one ounce of salisyhc acid to four gallons of pure, soft cold water with one pound of salt. All Salad Vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, etc., keep best in a cool, dark place ; it is not necessary to keep them in water ; in fact it is undesirable; afier they are well washed they should be loosely wrapped in a wet cloth and laid on or near the ice in a refrigerator ; if there is no ice they can be fairly well preserved by the following method ; in a wooden or heavv pasteboard box lay a large towel entirely saturated with cold water, and after the salad is washed wrap the towel about it to exclude the air, close the box, and keep it in a cool, dark place. Every night and morning wash the salad ; removing all decayed leaves, wash the towel in clean, cold water without wringing it, and again wrap the salad in it, and put it away in the box. In this way the most delicate salad vegetables may be kept fresh for several days, even in summer. Packing Vegetables. — For present use they should be laid aw Ay carefully in a bin with a close lid (hung on hinges) so that the light may be excluded. To keep them for a long time the best plan is to pull them on a dry day, cut off the tops and trim, and pack them in clean barrels or boxes, in layers with fine clean moss, such as is found in abundance in woods, between them. The moss keeps them clean and sufficiently moist, preventing shriveling of the roots on the one hand, and absorbing any excess of dampness on the other. All vegetables keep best at as low a temperature as possible without freezing. Cider. — Sweet cider may be kept by adding one ounce salisylic acid to a barrel as soon as possible after coming from the press. The j^east will settle in a few days ; the clear juice must be drawn off and will remain sweet for ten or twelve days, or if prefered can stand until it is fermented to suit the taste before adding the salisylic acid, and it will keep justthesame as before adding. 0%tmeal. — Keep in air-tight tin boxes, in which it can often be bought . these boxes contain frora five pounds upward, and are really the only reitep- tacles in which it can be kept free from fermentation, mold, or animal pests ; the sweetness of the meal is lost by exposure to the air. 1052 THK T-.M/XDRY. THE LAXJNOR V AVlien inviting friends to visits of a N\eek or more, try to fix the tinu' lor the visit to begin the day after the ironing is done. The girl feels a weight ofi'lier mind, has the time to cook the meals better, and is a much more will- ing attendant upon guests. Do not have beefsteak for dinner on washing or ironing days — arrange to have something roasted in the oven, or else have cold meat. Do not have fried or boiled fish. The smell sticks, and the clothes will not be sweet ; besides the broiler and frying-pan take longer to clean. As for vegetables, do not have spinach, pease, string-beans, or apple- sauce. All these good things take time to prepare, and can be avoideil ;is well as not. Have baked white and sweet potatoes, macaroni, boiled rice, pars- nips, sweet corn, stewed tomatoes, or any canned vegetables in winter. For dessert, baked a^ndes and cream, bread-pndding, or somotliing easily pre- pared. Washing Day. — Clothing when removed from the person, if damp, should be dried to prevent mildew, and articles which are to be starched should be mended before placing in the clothes-basket. Monday is tlie washinjr day with all good housekeepers. Tubs arranged as above are much nicer than separate tubs, as no bench is necessary, the wringer is placed on the divis- ion b and also on the end wring- ing out tlie clotlies directly into the clotlies basket, and the water is drawn oil' at the faucets p j). The old-fashione(l jirogramme for washing is as follows. Use good soft water if it can be had. If not, soften a barrel-full of well-water by pouring into it water in which half a peck or more of hard wood aslies have been boiled, together with the ashes them- selves. When enough has been added to produce the desired effect, the water takes on a curdled ap|ie;iranco, and soon settles perfectly clear. If THE LAUNDRY. 1053 milky, more ashes and lye must be added as before, care being taken hot to add more than is necessary to clear the water, or it will affect the hands un- pleasantly. On the other hand, if too little is put in, the clothes Avill turn yellow. Gather up all clothes which are ready on Saturday night, and the rest as they are taken off; separate the fine from the coarse, and the less soiled from the dirtier. Scald all table linen and articles which have coffee, fruit, or other stains which would be "set" by hot suds, by pouring over them hot water from the tea-kettle and allowing them to stand until cool. Have the water in the tub as warm as the hand can bear, but not too hot. (Dirty clothes should never be put into very hot clear water, as it "sets" the dirt. Hot soap-suds, however, has the opposite effect, the water expanding the fiber of the fabric, while the alkali of the soap softens and removes the dirt.) Wash first one boiler full, taking the cleanest and finest through two suds, then place in a boiler of cold water, with soap enough to make a good suds. A handful of borax to about ten gallons of water helps to whiten the clothes and is used by many, especially by the Germans, who are famous for their snowy linen. This saves in soap nearly half. For laces, cambrics, etc., an extra quantity of the powder is used, and for crinolines (requiring to be made stiff), a strong solution is necessary. Borax, being a neutral salt, does not in the slightest degree injure the texture of the linen. Its eff'ect is to soften the hardest water. Another way to whiten clothes is to throw a handful of tansy into the boiler in which clothes are boiling. It will make the water green, but will whiten the clothes. Let them boil, with cover off boiler, not more than five orten minutes, as too long boiling "yellows" the clothes. (Some advocate strongly no boiling.) Remove to a tub, pour over them cold water slightly blued, and turn all garments, pillow-slips, stockings, etc., wrong-side oul. (If tlaere are more to boil, take out part of the boiling suds, add cold water, and fill not too full with clothes. Repeat until all are boiled. The removal of part of the suds, and filling up with cold water, prevents the suds from "yellowing" the clothes.) Wash vigor- ously in this water (this is called "sudsing"), wringing very dry in hand, or better with the wringer, as the clear appearance of the clothes depends largely on thorough wringing. Rinse in another tub of soft water, washing with the hands, 7iot simply lifting them out of the water and then wringing, as is practiced by some , because all suds must be rinsed out to make them clear and white. Wring and shake out well and put into water pretty well blued, putting in one article after another until the first boilerful is all in. Stir up occasionally, as the blue sometimes settles to the bottom, and thus spots the clothes. (This time well-water maybe iised if soft water is difficult to ob- tain.) Wring out again and for the last time, placing the clothes which are to be starched in one basket, and the rest, which may be hung out im- mediately, in another. While the first lot of clothes is boiling, prepare the second, take out first, put second in boiler, and "suds" and rinse first. In this way the first is finished and hung out while the later lots are still under way. Have the starch (see receipts) ready as hot as the hand can bear, dip the articles and parts of articles which need to be very stiff, first "clapping" the starch well with the hands, especially in shirt-bosoms, wristbands, and collars, and then thin the starch for other articles which require less stiffen- ing. When starched, hang out on the line to dry, first wiping the line with a cloth to remove all dirt and stains. Shake out each article until it is free from wrinkles, and fasten securely on the line (with the old-fashioned split clothes-pins), being careful to hang sheets and table-linen so that the selv- age edges will be even. The line should be stretched in the airiest place in the yard, or in winter a large attic is a better place for the purpose. (Freez- ing injures starch, and for that reason it is better in winter to hang clothes out unstarched until dry, then taking in, starching and drying indoors.) When dry, remove from line to clothes-basket, place clothes-pins as removed 1084 THE LAUNDRY ill a- basket kept for the purpose, take down and roll up the line, remove basket, line, and pins to the house, and put the two latter into their proper places. The clothes-line should always be carefully put up out of the weather when not in use. Wipe it carefully with a clean cloth before hanging out clothes, and always count clothes-pins when gathering them up. Every liuusekeeper ought to provide a pair of mittens for hanging out clothes, to be used for this purpose and no other. Cut them from clean flannel (white seems the most suitable), and line tliem with another tJiickness of flannel, or make tliem double, if the flannel is thin. These should be kept in a clean place ready for this particular business, and nothing else. A good and handy ])lac(! to keep them is the clothes-pin bag. Turn all garments right side out .sliiikeout thoroughly and sprinkle (re-starching shirt-bosoms, wristbands, anil collars if necessary). Shake out night-dresses and under-garments so as to free them from creases, and if they are ruflled or embroidered, dip tliem in thin starch, pull out smoothly, fold flrst, and then, beginning at the top of each garment, roll up, each by itself, in a very tight roll, and place in the basket; fold sheets without si)rinkling, having first snapped and stretched them, and lay on the rest ; over all spread the ironing blanket, and let them stand until next morning. If a machine is used in washing, it is better to soak the clothes over night in warm soft water, soaping collars and wristbands, and pieces most soiled, litve separate tubs for coarse and fine clothes. In soaking clothes for wash- ing Monday, the water should be prepared .Saturday night, and all clothes wiiich are ready thrown in, and rest added when changed. If washing fluids are used, the recipes which follow are the best. Another method is to half fill tul>s Saturday night with clear, soft water, warmed a little if convenient, but not too hot, made into a weak suds ; in one jiut the finer articles, such as muslins, cuffs, collars, and shirts ; in another p.t table-linen ; in another bed-linen ; in another the dish-clothes and wiping towels and in still another tiie coarsest and most soiled articles ; ai ways put the most soiled articles of each division at bottom of tub ; cover all well with water and press down. Rub no soap on spots or stains, as it will "set" them. Of course, articles which can not be had on Saturday night are put in the next day as they are changed. Monday morning, heat not very hot a boiler full of clean soft water, add to it water in wliich soap was dissolved Satur- day night by pouring hot water over it, and stir it thoroughly ; drain off the water in whitli the clothes were soaked after shaking them up and down vigorously in it, pressing them against the sides of the tub to get out all the water possible. Then pour over them the warm suds, and wash out as be- fore described, washing each class separately. If^ found impracticable to make so many divisions, separate the coarse and fine, and the least soiled :'nd the dirtiest. In the summer, clothes may be washed without any fire by soaking over- night in soapy soft water, rubbing out in the morning, soaping the dirty places, and laying them in the hot sunshine. By the time the last are spread out to })k'ach, the first may be taken up, washed out and rinsed. This, of course, requires a clean lawn. Ironing Day. — Iron day after washing beginning with the sheets (which, as well as the table linen, "must be folded neatly and carefully, so that the selvage edges will exactly come together. Or, another way to fold and iron a sheet is to bring bottom over top, then bring back bottom edge to edge of middle fold, leaving top edge ; iron the upper surface, then turn the whole sliei't over, fold the top edge back to the midtlle edge, and again iron upper surface ; this leaves the sheet folded in four thicknesses ; now bring the selv- age edges together and iron the upper surface, and the sheet is done), and THE LAUXDRY. 1085 taking shirts next, cooling the iron when too hot on the coarse towels. In ironing shirts a bosom board is almost indispensable, and an ironing-board is a great convenience for all articles. The former is a hard board an inch thick, eighteen inches long, and eight wide, covered with two thicknesses of woolen blanket stuff, overlaid with two more of cotton cloth. The cloth is v.'rapped over the sides and ends of the board and tacked on the back side, leaving the face plain and smooth. The ironing-board is covered in the same way, but is five feet long, two feet wide at one end, and narrowed down with a rounded taper from full width at the middle to seven inches at the other end, and the corners rounded. This board may be of any well-seasoned wood which will not warp, and should be about one inch thick ; on this all the clothes are convenientlj' ironeil. Always use cotton holders for the irons. Woolen ones are hot to the hand, and if scorched, as they often are, the smell is disagreeable. In ironing a sliirt or a dress, turn the sleeves on the Avrong side, and leave them until the rest is done, and then turn and iron them. In this way the bosoms are less likely to become rumpled. Pull muslin an)orax water or white castile soap-suds, the same as if wash- ing the hands ; rinse under a stream of water, and dry with a towel ; keep tlie gloves on until they are about half dried, take off carefully, and fold them up so that they will look as nearly like what they were when new as possible, and lay between towels under a weight. To Clean Ribbons. — Dissolve white soap in boiling water; when cool enough to bear the hand, pass the ribbons through it, rubbing gently so as not to injure the texture ; rinse through lukewarm water, and pin on a board to dry. If the colors are bright yellow, maroon, crimson, or scarlet, adtl a few drops of oil of vitriol to the rinse- water ; if the color is bright scarlet, add to the rinse- water a few drops of muriate of tin. Brown Linen — May be kept looking new until worn out if always washed in starch-water and hay tea. Make flour starch in the ordinary way. For one dress put on the stove a common sized milk pan full of timothy hay, pour on water, cover, and boil until the water is of a dark green color, then turn into the starch, let the goods soak in it a few minutes, and wash without soap ; the starch will clean the fabric and no rinsing is necessary. To Wash Colored Muslin. — Wash in warm, not hot, suds, made with soft water and best white soap, if it is to be had. Do not soak them, and wash only one thing at a time. Change the suds as soon as it looks dingy, and i)ut the garments at once into fresh suds. Rinse first in clear water, tlien in slightly blued. Squeeze quite dry, but don't ivriiig the dress Hang in a shady place where the sunshine will not strike it, as that fades all colors. To Wash Thread Lace. — Cover a bottle with white flannel, baste the lace carefully on the flannel, and rub with white soap; place the bottle in a jar filled with warm suds, let remain two or three days, changing the water sev- eral times, and boil with the finest white clothes on washing day; wlu-u cooled a little, rinse several times in plenty of cold water, wrap a soft, dry towel around it, and place it in the sun ; when dry, unwind, but do not starch. Black Print or Percale Dresses, that have figures of white in them, may be washed nicely by putting them in the "boiling suds," after the other clothes have all been reinoved, and boiling for ten minutes; cool the suds, rub out quickly, rinse in lukewarm water, then in very J)lue col I water, and starch in cottee starch. After the dress is dried, it is to be dipped into cold water, passed through the wringer, rolled in a coarse towel or sheet and left for a couple of hours, then ironed on the wrong side. A Polishing Iron. — Many housewives wonder why they cannot give to shirt collars, bosoms and ciifTs, the fine glossy surface that the laundress puts on. This polish is due not so much to any prepara- tion of the starch, as vigorous rubbing with an iron made for the purpose and shaped like the one in the cut. It is somewhat like a common flat-iron, but has no sharp cor- ners or edges, and has a britrhtly polished steel face. Af- ter the bosom or collar has been starched and ironed a da. np cloth is passed over them and then the polisher is applied, bearing on hard ami rubbing the surface raiiidly. A Washing Fluid.^-T\\Q washing fluid made by the'fol- lowing rule is invaluable in cleaning woolen goods, in roll h .• .r..u. washing woolen tidies, or worsterl goods of any kind : One-half bar of Babbitt's or Bell's soap, one ounce salti>etre, one ounce bo- rax, four quarts soft water. Dusolve all together over a fire ; when half cold, THE LAUNDKY. ICOl add five ounces spirits of ammonia. The compound may be bottled and is good for an indefinite length of time. It is used just as you would use soft soap. To "Do Up'' Black Silk. — Boil an old kid glove (cut up in shred-s) in a pint of water till the water is reduced to a half pint ; then sponge the silk with it ; fold it down tight, and ten minutes after, iron it on the wrong side while wet. The silk will retain its softness and luster, and at the same time, have the "body" of new silk. Or rip up and brush thoroughly, then sponge in ammonia water, and pin out perfectly straight, each width or piece where the sun will shine on it, and 'let dry. Pocket for Clothes-pins. — A great convenience is the apron pocket for clothes pins. It takes nearly one yard to make it, the apron or pouch being fifteen inches in length, and nearly as wide. Round the corners at the lx)t- tom. At the top, on each side of the front, two inches from the middle, cut out a strip nine inches long, and one and one-half inches wide for pockets. Bind them with lighter colored fabric than the apron, that they may be readily seen. Gather into a band and button at the back, or put on strings and tie. How to Wash Blankets. — All that is necessary is abundance of soft water, and soap without resin in it. Resin hardens the fibers of wool, and should never be used in washing any kind of flannel goods. Blankets treated as a- l)ove will always come out clean and soft. A little blueing may be used in washing white blankets. They should be shaken and snapped until almost dry ; it will require two persons to handle them. Woolen shawls, and all woolen articles, especially men's wear, are much improved by being pressed with a hot iron under damp muslin. Gall Soap. — For washing woolens, silks, or fine prints liable to fade : One pint beef's gall, two pounds common bar soap cut fine, one quart boiling soft water; boil slowly, stirring oi'casionally until well mixed; pour into a flat vessel, and when cold cut into pieces to dry; or a more simple w^ay of using gall, is to get a pint bottle filled with fresh beef's gall at the butchers, cork tightly, add to the water when washing any material that is lialde to fade ; using more if articles are very liable to fade, and less if the liability is not great. When the bottle is empty or grows stale, get fresh. Silk Underwear. — Make a suds of castile soap and let them soak an hour or two, then add warm water till the whole is luke-warm and wash and rinse in same temperature of water. When dry do not sprinkle, but iron by plac- ing over them a muslin cloth wet in water and over that a dry cloth. It is well to keep cloths just for this purpose. Buckeye Cleaning Mixture. — One fourth cake Ivory soap dissolved in one quart rain water, one ounce each soda, borax and ether. Dissolve soap in water and add the salsoda and borax; then when dissolved add gallon rain water, after taking off stove put in ether. Use with scrub-brush for carpets, etc., and with sponge for fabrics, sponging off' with clean water afterward. To Wash Delicate Colored Muslins. — Boil wheat bran (about two quarts to a dress) in soft water half an hour, let it cool, strain the liquor, and use it instead of soap-suds ; it removes dirt like soap, keeps the color, and the clothes only need rinsing in one water, and even starching is unnecessary. Suds and rinsewater for colored articles should be used as cold as possible. Another way is to make thick corn meal mush, well salted, and use instead 3f soap ; rinse in one or two waters, and do not starch. 101)2 THE LAUNDRY. To Wash a Silk Dress. — To wash a silk dress with gall soap, rip apart and shake otf the dust ; have ready two tubs warm soft water, make a suds of the soap in one tub, and use the other for rinsing; wash the silk, one piece at a time, in the suds, wring gently, rinse, again wring, shake out, and iron with a hot iron on what you intend to be the wrong side. Thus proceed with each piece, and when about half done, throw out the suds and make suds of the rinsing water, using fresh water for rinsing. To Take Out Scorch. — If a shirt-bosom, or any other article has been scorched in ironing, lay it where bright sunshine will fall directly on it. Peel and slice two onions, extract the juice by pounding and squeezing; or cut up half an ounce of tine white soap, and add to the juice ; two ounces of fuller's earth and half i)int of vinegar. Boil all together. When cool spread over the scorched linen, and let dry on ; then wash and boil out the linen, and the spots will disappear unless burned so badly as to break the threads. Fruit Stains. — Colored cottons or woolens stained with wine or fruit should be wet in alcohol and ammonia, then sponged oil" gently (not rubbed) with alcohol ; after that if the material will warrant it, washed in tepid soap- suds. Where white are used the stains may be easily removed by using boiling water before the stains are soaped or wetted; pour it on until they mostly disappear, and then let goods stand in it covered till cold. Peaches, some kinds of pears, and sweet api)les make the worst stains ; and if ])oiling water is not sufficient, a little javelle water may be used and. if skillfully managed, will not need to be used often. Silks may be wet with this prep- aration when injured by these stains. The Use of Turpentine in Washing. — Tur{)entine should never be used when washing is done with the hands, as it is very injurious to the health ; but when the clothes are pounded in a barrel in the old fashioned way, or when the rubbing is done by a washing-machine, a tablespoon of turpentine added to a pint of soft soap, taking enough of the mixture to make a good suds for eacli lot of clothes aids in removing the dirt. Care must be taken not to handle the turpentine with the hands, or to breathe the fumes of it, as it is very injurious to some persons, and great care should be taken to rinse the clothes verj' thoroughly, or the clothing may retain enough of the turpentine to be injurious, when worn next the skin. To Wash Flannels in Tepid Water. — The usefulness of litjuid ammonia is not as universally known among housewives as it deserves to be. If you add some of it to a soap-suds made of a mild soap, it will prevent the flannel from becoming yellow or shrinking. It is the potash and soda contained in sharp soap which tends to color animal fibn's yellow ; the shrinking may also ])e partially due to this agency, but above all to the exposure of the flannel while wet "to the extremes of low or high temperatures. Dipping it in boil- ing water or leaving it out ki the rain will also cause it to shrink and become hard. To preserve their softness, flannels shoiild be washed in tepid suds, rinsed in tepid water, and dried rapidly at a moderate heat. To Wash Lace Ruchings. — Wash with tlie hands in warm suds (if much soiled, soak in warm water two or three hours), rinse thoroughly, and starch in thick starch, dry outdoors if the day be clear ; if not, place between drv cloth, roll tightly and put away till dry; then, with the fingers, open eacK row and pullOut smoothly (have a cup of clear water in which to dip the fingers or dampen the lace) ; then pull out straiglit the outer edge of each with the thumi) and finger, and draw the binding over the point or side with a hot iron. If the ruche is single or only two rows, it can be ironed after be- ing smoothed (the first process). Blonde or net that has become yellow cau ix' bleached by hanging in the sun or laying out overnight iu the dew. THIS LAUN»RY. 1093 To Make Fine Starch. — Wet the starch smooth in a little cold water, in a large pan, pour in a quart boiling water to two or three tablespoons starch, stirring rapidly all the while ; place on stove, stir until it boils, and then oc- casionally. Boil from tive to fifteen minutes, or until the starch is perfectly clear. Some add a little salt, or butter or pure lard, or stir with a sperm, candle.; others add a teaspoon kerosene to one quart starch ; tliis prevents the stickiness sometimes so annoying in ironing. Eitlier of the above in- gredients is an improvement to flour starch. Many, just before using starch add a little blueing. Cold starch is made from starch dissolved in cold water, being careful not to have it too thick ; since it rots the clothes, it is not ad- visable to use it — the same is true of potato starch. For Washing the Lighter Woolen Fabrics thatenter into tlie composition of summer dresses, borax is one of the most useful articles for softening the water and cleansing the material. This is used in the proportion of a table- spoon to a gallon of water, and, if dissolved in hot water, it makes a better lather. Of course, no thoughtful person will attempt to wash a woolen dress without first havingripped it apart, picked out all tlie threads, brushed the dustout, and marked the particularly soiled places by running a thread around them. Wash one piece at a time, roll up and squeeze, orpass through a wringer instead of twisting through the hands. Wash in several changes of borax water, and rinse in clear water, in which a well-])eaten egg has been mixed ; shake thoroughly, and fold in sheets until evenly damp all through, then iron the wrong side with an iron hot enough to smooth nicely without scorching. Wash Silk Handkerchiefs by laying them on a smooth Ijoard, and rub- bing with the palm of the hand. Use either borax or white castile soap to make the suds; rinse in clear water, shake till nearly dry, fold evenly, laj^ between boards, and put a weight on them. No ironing is required. Silk hose and ribbons may be treated in the same way ; if there are colors that run, put as much sugar of lead as will lie on a quarter dollar, into a half gal- Icni of water, and soak the goods half an hour, stirring frequently, then wash as al'ove, and rinse in several clear waters, using sugar of lead in the last. Or wash in cold rain water with a little curd soap ; then rinse them in rain- water — cold — slightly colored with stone blue ; wring well and stretch them out on a mattress, tacking them out tightly. They \\'ill look good as new if carefully w^ashed. To Wash Black Lace. — Have a smooth, clear, round bottle ; one with a good deal of bodv and not much neck, is preferable to any other. Dip lace into a little ale, and after pressing out the moisture a little, wind it smoothly and carefully — picking out the edges and points — round and round bottle. Cover it up, or put where no dust can reach till dry, when it will look new. Use no soap, only ale or beer. Either removes rH.s^'H.''.ss, and veils, (black net, or lace) dipped in beer for an instant, fahlrd smootlih/, pressed free of moistiire in a cloth, and then hung for a" couple of min- utes before the fire will become stiff, fresh, and nice, without ironing. The bottle is also nice to use for white lace, but do not use the ale or beer. Washing Light Colored Prints and Cambrics. — Take a tablespoon of alum, and dissolve it in enough luke warm water to rinse a print dress. Dip the soiled dress into it, taking care to wet thoroughly every part of it, and then wring it out. Have warm, not hot, suds all ready, and wash out the dress quickly ; then rinse it in cold water. (AVhite castile soap is the best for colored cottons, if it can b« commanded.) Have the starch ready, but not 1094 THE LAUNDRY. too hot ; rinse the dress in it, wring out, and hang it wrung side out to dry, but not in the sun. Place it where the wind will strike it rather than the sun. "When drv, iron directly. Prints should never be sprinkled; but, if allowed to become too dry, they should be ironed under a damp cloth. It is better to wash them sonie day by themselves, when washing and ironing can be done at once. To Wash Flannels in Boiling Water.— ^l-dke a strong suds of boiling water and soft soap— hard soap makes flannels stitF and wiry— put them in, j.rcssingthem down under the water with a clothes-stick ; when cool enough rub the''articles carefully between the hands, then wring — but not through till! wringer — as drv as possible, shake, snap out, and pull each piece into its oriiriiuvl size anil shape, then throw immediately into another tub of boiling waFcr, in which you have thoroughly mixed some nice blueing. Shake them HI) and down in tliis last water witha clothes stick until cool enough for the haiids,then rinse well, wring, shake out and pull into shape— the snapi)ing iiiid pulling are as necessary as the washing— and hang in a sunny i)lace wlu-re they will dry quickly. Many prefer to rinse in two waters with the bhiing in the last, and this 'is always advisable when there are many flannels. Care of Irons. — When irons become rough or smoky, lay a little tine salt on a flat surface and rub them well ; it will prevent them sticking to aii\- thing starched, and make them smooth ; or scour with bath brick before li("atiny the following process : Shave half a pound of com- iiionlianl soap into a gallon of boiling water ; let it melt, turn it into a tub of Inkewanii water; stir a quart of wheat bran into a second tub of lukewarm water, and have reaily a third tub with clear water ; put the dress into the first tub of' suds, rub gently, or rather "souse" it upand down, audsqueezeituut ; THE LAUNDRY. treat it the same in a tub of bran water ; rinse, dry and dip in starch raaHe the same as for shirts ; dry again, and then rinse tliorougliiy in clear water ; dry again, and sprinkle with a whisk-broom or sprinkler; roll up iu a thick cloth while the iron gets hot, and iron with them as hot as they can be u^t-d witliout scorching the dress. By taking a clear day, it is little trouble to do several dresses in a few hours. To Remove Grease from Silk, Cotton, Linen or Worsted Goods. — Rub mag- nesia freely on both sides of silk or worsted goods and hang away. Benzine, ether or soap will take out spots from silk, but remember the goods must not be rubbed. Oil or turpentine or benzine will remove spots of paint, varnisli or pitch from white or colored cotton or woolen goods. After using it, they should be washed in soap-suds. Spots from sperm candles, stearine, and the like, should be softened and removed by ninety-five per cent alcohol, then sponged off with weak alcohol, and a small quantity of ammonia added to it. Holding white cotton or linen over the fumes of burning sulphur, and wetting in warm chloride water, will take out wine and fruit stains. The sooner the remedy is applied, after any of these spots or stains are discover- ed, the more effectual the restoration. From white linen or cotton by soap- suds or weak lye, and from calicoes with warm soap-suds. From woolens by soap-suds or ammonia. On silks use either yolk of egg with water, mag- nesia, ether, benzine, ammonia or French chalk. To Press and Clean Silks. — All Satin goods should be pressed upon tne right side. To press and clean black silk, shake out all the dust, clean well with a flannel cloth, rubbing it up and down over the silk; this takes out all dust that may be left ; take some good lager beer and spunge the silk, both on the wrong and right side, sponging across the width of the silk, and not down the. length, and with a moderately-warm iron, press what is intend- ed for the W' mg side. After sponging, it is better to wait a few minutes be- fore pressing as the irons will not be so apt to stick. Or, sponge with hot coffee, thoroughly freed from sediment by being strained tlirough muslin. The silk is sponged on the side intended to show, it is allowed to become partially dry, and then ironed on the wrong side. The coffee removes every particle of grease, and restores the brilliancy of silk, without giving it either the shiny appearance or crackly or papery stilf- ness obtained by beer or any other liquid. The silk appears thickened by the process, and this good effect remains. To Make Hard Soap. — Place one gallon of good soft soap in a kettle to boil ; when it begins to boil, stir in a pint measure level full of common salt, stirring it all the time till the salt is dissolved, then set to cool. Next day, cut out the soap in squares, scrape off tlie soft, dark part, that adheres to the lower side of the cake.s, pour out the lye, and wash the kettle ; place the soap, cut in thin slices in the kettle, with more weak lye. If the lye is strong add rain-water, pint for pint ; let it boil until the soap is dissolved. While boiling, again stir in a pint measure level full of salt, stirring it same as before, and set to'cool. "When perfectly hard, cut it in cakes the size you wish, scraping off the soft lye part that adheres to the lower side, and lay on boards, top side down in the sun, turning it each day until sufficiently dry. Or, if you wish to make a twelve or fourteen gallon kettle of soft soap into hard, three quarts of salt, stirred in each time, will be sufficient. But as soap differs in strength, the quantity of salt must also differ. The stronger the soap the more salt is required. A good genei-al rule is our old grandmother's : "When the soap is boiling, stir in salt until it curdles and becomes whitish in color." It can be tested by placing some in a shallow pan, as it cools in a few minutes sufficiently to know if enough salt is in. 1096 TH« I.AUXDRV. Cloihei Ftuudar. A Clothes rounder.— Among a\\ the ways and machines tried for washing clothes some find nothing equal to a barrel and pounder. Bore six or seven inch and a half, or larger holes, into tlie end of a six or eight inch sapling (can use butternut, it bores easily, and is handy,) two or tliree inches deep, then bore a ^4-inch side hole through the bottom of the larger ones to let out the air and water when pounding. The pounder should be six or eight inches long or high, made a little tapering, and a hoop-iron band put round it near the top. For a handle use a common ash hoe- handle, such as can be bought at stores for a dime. A coal oil barrel to pound in is cheap and strong, and it makes a good water barrel, or convenient to put in dirty clothes. Soap clothes well, and put into barrel just warm water enough to thoroughlv wet the clothes. In washing this way persons generally use too much water, it then makes splashing work. If the water gets too dirty, change it of course. A pounder made as il- lustrated is even better than one described. To Blench Muslin. — For thirty yards of muslin, take one pound of chloride of lime, dissolve in two quarts rain-water ; letclothsoak overnight in warm rain-water, or long enough to be thoroughly wet ; wring out cloth and put in another tub of warm rainwater in which the chloride of lime solution has been poured. Let it remainf or about twenty minutes, lifting up the cloth and airing every few minutes, and rinse in clear rain-water. This will not injure the cloth in theleast.and is much le^s troublesome than bleaching on the grass Or, scald in suds and lay them on the clean grass all night, or if this can not be done, bring in and place in a tub of clean soft water. In the niorning ecald again and put out as before. It will take from one to two weeks to bleach white. May be bleached in winter by placing on the snow. May is the best month for bleaching. To whiten yellow linens or muslins, soak over night, or longer, in buttermilk ; rinse thoroughly and wash the same as other clothes. This will also answer for light calicoes, percales, lawns, etc.. that will not fade. Some use sour milk when not able to get buttermilk. To whiten yellow laces, old collars, etc., put in a glass bottle or jar in a strong suds, lei stand in sun for seven days, shaking occasionally. To Wash Lace Curtainx.— Shake the dust well out of the lace, put in tepid water, in which a little soda has been dissolved, and wash at once carefully with the hands in several waters, or until perfectly clean; rinse in water well blued, also blue the boiled starch quite deeply and squeeze, but do not wring. Pin some sheets down to the carpet in a vacant, airy room, then pin on the curtains stretched to exactly the size they were before being wet. In a few hours thev will be dry and ready to put up. The whole process of washing and pinning ddwn should occupy as little time as possible, as lace will shrink more than any other cotton goods when long wet. Above all, it should not be allowed to '"soak." from the mistaken idea that it washes more easilv, nor should it ever be ironed. Another way is to fasten them in a pair of frames, which every housekeeper should have made very like the old- fashioned quilting-frames, thickly studded along the inside with the smallest size of galvanized tenter hooks, in which to fasten the lace, and having holes and wooden pins with which to vary the length and breadth to suit the dif- ferent sizes of curtains. The curtains should always be measured before be- ing wet, and stretched in the frames to that sim to prevent shrinking. Five or six curtains of the same size may be put in, one abov« the •th«r, and all dried at once. Th« framas may rest en fe«r ehairi. THB LAUN»RT. 109"; How to do up Shirt-bosoms. — To fine starch add a piece of "Enamel" the Bize of a hazle-nut ; if this is not at hand use a table-spoon gum-arabic soUi- tion (made by pouring boihng water upon gum-arabic and standing until clear and transparent) , or a piece of clean mutton tallow half the size of a nutmeg and a teaspoon of salt will do, but is not as good. Strain the starch through a strainer or a piece of thin muslin. Have the 'shirt turned wrong side out; dip the bosoms carefully in the fine starch, made according to re- cipe, and squeeze out, repeating the operation until the bosoms are thorough- ly and evenly saturated with starch ; proceed to dry. Three hours before ironing dip the bosoms in clear water ; wring out and roll up tightly. First iron the back by folding it lengthwise through the center ; next iron the wristbands, and both sides of the sleeves; then the collar-band; now place the bosom-board under the bosom, and with a dampened napkin rub the bosom from the top towards the bottom, smoothing and arranging each plait neatly. "With smooth, moderately hot flat-iron, begin at the tup and iron downwards, and continue the operation until the bosom is perfectly dry and shining. Remove the bosom-board, and iron the front of the shirt. The bosoms and cuffs of shirts, indeed of all nice work, will look clearer and bet- ter if they are first ironed under a piece of thin old muslin. It takes ofi" the first heat of the iron, and removes any lumps of starch. Washing Fluid. — The very best known, as it saves time, labor, clotnes and soap : One pound sal-soda, one-half pound stone lime, five quarts soft water, (some add one-fifth pound borax) ; boil a short time in copper or brass kettle, stirring occasionally, let settle and i)Our off the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork for use ; soak white clothes over night in simple water, wring out and soap wristbands, collars, and dirty stained places ; have boiler half filled with water, and when at scalding heat put in one common tea- spoon of fluid, stir and put in clothes, and boil half an hour, rab lightly through one suds only, rinsing well in the blueing water as usual, and "all is complete. Instead of soaking clothes over night, they may soak in suds for a few hours before beginning washing. For each additional boiler of clothes, add a half cup only of the fluid, of course boiling in the same water through the whole washing. If more water is needed in the boiler for the last clothes, dip it from the sudsing tub. This fluid brightens instead of fading the cobjrs in calico, and is good for coloring flannels. It does not rot clothes, but they must not lie long in the water ; the boiling, sudmng, rinsing and blueing must ful- lovj each other in rapid succession, until clothes are hung on the line, which should be by ten o'clock in the morning. Some of this fluid, put in hot water, is excellent for removing grease spots from the floor, doors, and windows; also for cleansing tin-ware, pots, and kettles. To Wash Woolen Goods. — Dissolve a large tablespoon borax in a pint boiling water. Mix one quarter of it in the cold water in which greasy woolen goods are to be washed. Put in one piece at a time, using soap, if needed ; and if necessary add more of the borax-water. Wash and rinse in cold water. Shake well and hang where the goods will dry quickly. Flan- nels can be washed in the same way. The important thing in washing flannels is to have all waters of the same temperature. If you begin with cold, go through with cold ; if with hot, have all waters equally hot. They must not be allowed to freeze in drj-ing. Some add a little salt to the last rinsing water. In washing flannels be careful that the soap used has no resin in it. When flannels are nearly dry, take in, fold carefully, roll up in damp cloth so that that they will iron smoothly. In ironing heav^' woolen goods, especially pants, vests, etc , it is well to let them get dried, then spread them out on an ironing-board (not on a table), wring a cloth out of clear water, and lay over the article, then iron with a hot iron till dry ; wet tiie cloth again and spread it just above the part already ironed, letting it corny 10'.)S THE LAUNDRY. u lialf inch or so on that which has been pressed, so that there will be no line to mark where the cloth was moved; continue this till the whole gar- ment has been thoroughly pre&sed. "Woolen garments thus ironed will look like new ; l)ut in doing this care must be exercised that every spotthat looks at all "fulled"' or shrunk should be stretclied while being pressed under the wet cloth. Bring the outside to lit the linings, as when new, but if not quite able to do this, rip the lining and trim off to matcii. All the seams, espec- ially on pants, must be first pressed on a "press board," then fold the pants as they are found in the tailor's shop, and go over them with the wet cloth and hot iron. Soap-bark Tea water is also nice for washing pants, etc. Flour Starch. — One coftee cup flour a little rounded, water enough to moisten it, let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, then add enough more water to make it the consistency of thin molasses. Beat well, and to make it perfectly smooth, stir well withan egg-beater. Have a clean kettle or pan with five pints of water (soft water is best) on stove boiling, into which stir this thick- ening, let it boil from two to five minutes, then stir in half teaspoon each salt and butter or lard, or stir while boiling with a sperm candle. Strain through a cotton flour sack, or a bag made of a crash towel, by putting the ends together and sewing up the sides. It is well to have a pan of cold water in wliich to dip the hand, in order to squeeze starcli through as hot as pos- sible, as to secure best results starch must be very hot. If the articles to be starclied need to be very stiff, dry them before starching; if not, wring them well through the wringer, then starch. This quantity will starch two large work aprons, bosom and cuffs of two calico shirts, one calico dress, a tie apron and live children's aprons. A rainy, damp, or very windy day, is not good fur starching. Anything that is required to be extra stiff, as the front of a sunbonnet, can be restarched by rubbing more starch on after it first becomes dry, do so one or more times until it is stiff enough. Starch made this way makes the clothes look nicely, and seldom sticks to the iron or rubs up on tiie clothes. If it should, place a small lump of beeswax on the cloth on which the iron is tested, rub the hot iron swiftly over the beeswax, then ruV» it on the cloth before ironing the garment. Rubbing the hot iron over the beeswax, causes the latter to stick to the cloth, and the same cloth can be used many times, it is a much better way than to have the beeswax tied up in a cloth. To Dry-atarch, Fold mid Iron Shirts. — In doing up shirts, wristbands ami collars should be starched first if the collars are sewed on. Dii> them into the hot starch, and as soon as the hand can bear the heat (and dipping the hand in cold water often will expedite the work) rub the starch in very tiiorougldy, taking care that no motes or lumps of starch adhere to the linen. Then starch the shirt-bosom the same way keeping the starch hot all the time i)y setting the dish in a deep pan of water. Kub it into the linen very carefully, pass the finger under the plaits and raise them up sc that tiie starch shall penetrate all through evenly. Some rub it into the plaits with a piece of clean linen, but we think the hand does the work more thoroughly and evenly. When pi*rfectly starched, shake out the shirt evenly, fold l)oth sides of the bosom to^rether and bring the shoulders and side seams together evenlv; that will lay the sleeves one'over the other, and after pulling the wristbands into shape smoothly they can be folded together and the wrist- bands rolled tightly and, with "the sleeves, be folded and laid even on tlie sides of the shirt. 'Then turn the sides with the sleeves over on the front, and beginning at the neck roll the whole tightly together, wrap in a towel ;ind let it remain so several hours before ironing — all night if starched and folded in the evening — and in t*he summer put in a cool place where the starcli will not sour, and in the winter keep warm enough to prevent freez- ing. To d(j up shirt bosoms in the most perfect way, one must have a "pol- THE LAUXDT^V. 1099 ishing iron" — a small iron rounded over and highly polished on the ends and sides. Spread the bosom on a hard and very smooth board, with onlv one thickness of cotton cloth sewed tight across it. Spread a wet cloth over ami iron quickly with a hot iron, then remove the cloth and with a poiishinji ufm as hot as can be used without scorching, rub the bosom quick and hard up and down, not crosswise. Use only the rounded part of the front of the iron, that puts all the friction on a small part at one time, and gives the full bene- fit of all the gloss in starch or linen. Soap For Family Use. — Much of the toilet and laundry soaps in the market are adulterated with injurious, and to some persons, poisonous su]»- tances by which diseases of the skin are occasioned or greatly aggravated, and great suffering results, which is rarely traced to the real cause. The fat tried from animals which have died of disease, if not thoroughly saponiher use one without a bottom ; prepare aboard wider than the l»arrel, set barrel on it, and cut a groove around just outside the barrel, making one groove from this to the edge of the board to carry off the lye as it runs off. Pia< etwo feet from the ground, and tip so that the lye may run easily from the board into the vessel below prepared to receive it. Put half-bricks or stones around the edge of inside of barrel, place on them one end of sticks one or two inches wide, inclining to the center; place straw to the depth of two inches, over it scatter two pounds slacked lime , put in the ashes about a half bushel at a time, pack well by using a pounder, spade, or common ax ; con- tinue to pack until barrel is full, leaving a funnel-shaped hollow in the cen- ter large enough to hold several quarts of water. Use soft or rain-water, and boiling hot. Let the first water disappear before adding more. If the ashes are packed very tightly, it may require two or three days before the lye will begin to run, but it is much better as it will be stronger. If a large quantity of lye is needed, prepare a board long enough to hold two or more l)arrels, one back of the other, with a groove in the center the entire length of thf board; on this place the barrels prepared as above. A test of the strength of the lye is if it will bear up an egg; another is to heat the lye to boiling, whirl a' feather around in it nine times, and if it eats the feather it will make soap. Sun or Cold Soap is made by adding one pound of cleansed grease, spoiled lard or butter, to each gallon of lye strong enough to float an egg. Set the vessel in the sun and stir thoroughly each day until it is good soaji. This gives it a golden color, and produces an excellent soap for washing. Ii may be used in washing even laces and fine cambrics with perfect safety. 1100 THE LAUNDRY. To Cleanse Grease. — Place all grease of whatever kind, soup bones, ham- rinds, cracklings, or any refuse fat into a kettle, with weak lye enough to boil it until all particles of fat are extracted ; let it cool, then skim off the grease, which is now ready to make the ''Sun Soap." Would add right here that no fat should be put away for soap j;rease until fried thoroughly. Boiled Soap. — There is no romance or poetry in making boiled soap, only patient hard work; yet without this useful article, what an unpresentable peup f we should be. Place the grease, consisting of soup-bones and all kinds of fat that accumulate in a kitchen, in a kettle, filling it only half full ; if there is too much fat, it can be skimmed off after the soap is cold, for another kettle of soap. This is the only true test when enough fat is used, as the lye will consume all that is needed and no more. Make a fire under one side of it. The kettle should be in an out-house or out of doors. Let it heat very hot so as to fry, and stir it lo prevent burning; now put in the lye, a gallon at a time, watch closely until it boils, as it sometimes runs over at the beginning. Add lye until the kettle is full enough, but not too full, to boil well. Soap should boil from the side and not the middle, as this would be more likely to cause it to boil over. To test the soap, to one spoon- ful of soap add one of rain water; if it stirs up very thick, the soap is good and will keep ; if it becomes thinner, it is unfit for use. This is the result of three causes; it is too weak, there is a deposit of dirt, or it is too strong. Continue to boil for a few hours, when it should flow from the stick with which it is stirred, like thick molasses ; but if after boiling it remains thin, let it stand over night, removing the fire, then drain very carefully into another vessel, being particular to prevent any sediment from passing. Wash the kettle, return the soap and bring to a boil, and if the cause was dirt, it will now be thick and good, otherwise it is too strong, and needs rain-water added. This can safely be done by pouring in a small quantity at a time, until it becomes thick. These are the usual causes that arise to trouble soap-makers. If other difficulties appear, they must use good common sense to meet and overcome them. It might not be amiss to add to this, the most economical way of saving Boap grease. Have a kettle standing in the yard in summer time (or if there is not a yard, in cellar), and as you save a little grease, put it in, but do not put in raw grease. If there are any pieces of fat left after using a ham or lumps of suet nc)t used in cooking a steak, put them in a skillet and fry them brown, then put all into the kettle of lye ; thus every particle of fat will be saved, and no fear of insects, rats or mice getting into and destroying the grease. Keep the kettle covered during night or when raining, but uncov- ered in the sunshine, stirring occasionally. In the fall, all that is necessary is to make a fire under the kettle, and let it boil a short time, adding more lye or grease if needed. If there are too many bones in it, or any particles that have not become consumed, ^kim them out and put them in a pot of Aveak, hot lye, stirring them with the skimmer to rinse off all the soap, then skim out and tlirow away and the pot of lye which has become almost soap, may now be added to the kettle of good soap. A few beef bones left in the >)arrel will sink to the bottom, and are said by some good housewives to im- prove the soap. Soft soap should he kept in a dry place in cellar, and is bet- ter if allowed to stand three months before using. SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1101 SOMETHING- ABOUT BABIES A child's first right is to be well born, of parents sound in body and mind, who can boast a long line of ancestors on both sides ; an aristocracy, based on the cardinal virtues of purity, chastity, sobriety and honesty. If the thought, the money, the religious enthusiasm, now expended for the regeneration of the race, were wisely directed to the generation of our descendents, to the conditions and environments of parents and children, the whole face of society might be changed before we celebrate the next centen- nial of our national life. All religious, educational, benevolent, and industrial societies combined, working harmoniously together, can not do as much in a life-time of eflTort, toward the elevation of mankind, as can parents in the nine months of pre- natal life. Locke took the ground that the mind of every child born into the world is like a piece of blank paper, that you may write thereon whatever you will ; but science proves that such idealists as Descartes were nearer right when they declared that each soul comes freighted with its own ideas its individual proclivities ; that the pre-natal influences do more in the for- mation of character than all the education that come after. Let the young man, indulging in all manner of excesses, remember that in considering the efiect of dissipation, wine, and tobacco, on himself and his own hapinness or misery, he does not begin to measure the evil of his life. As the High Priest at the family altar, his deeds of darkness will entail un- told suffering on generation after generation. Let the young woman with wasp-like waist, who lives on candies, salads, hot bread, pastry, and pickles whose listless brain and idle hands seek no profitable occupation, whose life is given to folly, remember that to her ignorance and folly may yet be traced the downfall of a nation. One of the most difficult lessons to impress on any mind is the power and extent of individual influence ; the parents, above all others, resist the belief that their children are exactly what they make them ; no more, no less ; like producing like. If there is a class of educators who need special preparation for their high and holy calling, it is those who assume the responsibility of parents. Shall we give less thought to the creation of an immortal being 1102 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. than the artist devotes to his statue or landscape? We wander tlirough the art galleries in the old world, and linger before the works of the great mas- turs, translixed with the grace and beauty, the ^lory and grandeur, of the iduals that surround us, and, with equal preparation, greater than these are ])()ssible in living, breathing humanity. The same thought and devotion in real life would soon give us a generation of saints, scholars, scientists and statesmen, of glorified humanity ; such as the world has not yet seen. To this hour, we liave left the greatest event of the life to chance, and the result is the ])]ind, the deaf and dumb, the idiot, the lunatic, the epileptic, the crim- inal, the drunkai'd, the glutton — thousands of human beings in our young republic, that never should have been born; a tax on society, a disgrace to their parents, and a curse to themselves. Well born — a child's next right is to intelligent care. If we buy a rare l)lant, we ask the florist innumerable questions as to its proper training : but the advent of an immortal being seems to suggest no new thought, to anxious investigation into the science of human life. Here we trust everything to an ignorant nurse, or a neighbor who knows perchance less tlian we do ourselves. Ignorance bandages the new-born child, as tight as a drum, from arm- pits to hips, compressing every vital organ. There is a trailition tliat all in- fants are subject to colic for the first three months of their existence ; at the end of wliich time the bandage is removed, and the colic ceases. Reason suggests that the bandage may be the cau^e of the colic, and queries as to the origin of the custom, and its use. She is told witli all seriousness, 'that the bones of anew-born child are like cartilage, that, unless they are pinned up snugly, they are in danger of falling to pieces." Reason replies : "If Infinite Wisdom has made kittens and puppies so that their component parts remain tog(^ther, it is marvelous that He should have left the human beings wholly at the mercy of a bandage ;" and proposes with her first-born to dispense with swaddling bandages, leaving only a slight compress on the navel, for a few days, until perfectly healed. Ignorance, believing that everA' child comes into the world in a diseased and starving condition, begins at once thepi-e])aration of a variety of nostrums, chemical and culinary, which she persistently administers to the struggling victim. Reason, knowing that after the fatigue of a long and perilous march, •what the young soldier most needs is absf)lute rest in some warm and cozy tent, shelters him under her wing, and liglits off all intruders, sure that when he needs his rations the world will hear from him. His first batli should l)e a generous application of pure, sweet olive oil, from head to foot, in every little corner and crevice of his outer man ; and then he should be immersed in warm .soap-suds, so nearly the temperature of tlie body as to cause no shock. Great care should ])e taken that neither oil or Soap touch tlie eyes. The room should be very warm, all drafts excluded; and on emerging from the tub, a hot .soft-flannel blanket should be closely wrapped around him, in whicii he may rest awhile before dressing. The softest garments, simjdy maer, gather it up and tie it, dij) it in sweet-oil, and insert it into the ear. Put a llannel bandage over the head to keep it warm. Let nature wake the children ; she will not do it prematurely. Take care tliat they go in bed at an early hour — let it l)e earlier and earlier, until it is found that they wake up themselves in full time to dress for breakfast. To prevent a child coughing at night, boil the strength out of ten cents worth of "seneca snake root" in one quart of soft water ; strain through a cloth, boil down to a pint, add one cup powdered sugar made into a thick molasses. Give one teaspoon on going to bed. Just before each meal let the child have some ripe fruit or some fruit sauce. Apples and berries are wholesome. Oranges should never be given to chil- dren unless the skin and the thick white part underneath the skin and be- tween the quarters is all carefully removed. Never let the little children go out of doors in winter without being warmiy clad. They lose heat rapidly, and easily contract throat and lung afi'ections. Every child stiould have full suits of underclothing ; and especially let the legs and ankles be well protected with thick stockings and leggings. Great care should be taken to sliade a baby's eyes from the light. If a strong light shines directly in its face, it often produces ophthalmia, an in. SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1105 flamation of the eyelids, which is troublesome and dangerous. A few drops of brea.st-milk, applied to the eye and worked under the lid, is very healing to sore eyes. .1 lump of sugar, saturated with vinegar, will stop hiccough when drink- ing water wiil not. For babies, a few grains of sugar will often suffice. Care must be taken in giving sugar to nursing babies, as it is constipating. Dio Lewis says feather pillows are death to children. jNIake them of straw or h-iir, and not too large. Children are often troubled with ulcers in the ears after scarlet fever and other children's diseases. Roast onions in ashes until done, wrap in a strong cloth, and squeeze out juice. To three parts juice, add one part laudanum and one part sweet-oil, and bottle for use. Wash ear out with warm water, shake bottle well, and drop a few drops into the ear. Snuffles need not be known in the category of baby troubles if mothers will have a camel's hair brush and carefully cleanse out baby's nose every morning when washing him ; and also watch for the little hard pieces tliat form in it and carefully take them out, putting up a little oil to soften them, or a little breast milk milked up will cause the baby to sneeze and loosen them. For symptoms of a cold, such as snuffling, or any slight hoarseness, give immediately a warm foot bath, and then grease with mutton tallow, the nose, neck, chest, and feet; warm the feet well at the tire. Sweet-oil, pig's-foot oil, or any kind of good grease will answer as Avell as mutton tallow." After warming well put them to bed and wrap up well. An oil-rub, as described hereafter, is one of the best things to give. Bathe children in the forenoon when possible, or, if not too tired, an hovir before the evening meal; never for al least an hour after eating. When pos- sible bathe l^efore an open fire or in a warm room near, and rub dry bef(.tre an open lire. It is injurious to bathe children on rising before breakhist, especially in cold weather. Washing the face, neck and hands, and dress- ing, is enough before refreshing the J3ody by eating. Probahhj nine children out often who die of croup might be saved b_v timelv application of roast onions, mashed, laid upon a folded napkin, and goose- oil, sweet-oil, or even lard, poured on and applied as warm as can be "borne comfortably to the throat and upper part of the chest, and to the feet and hands, or the onions may be sliced, boiled soft in water until almost dry greese added, and cooked in the greese until browned. For sore mouth in nursing babies, take a teaspoon each of puiverized aium and borax, half a salt-spoon of pulverized nut-galls, a table-spoon of honey ; mix, and pour on it half a tea-cup boiling water ; let settle, and with a clean linen rag wash the mouth four or five times a day, using afresh piece of linen every day ; or simple borax water is equally good. Half an even teaspoon powdered borax in two tablespoons soft water is strong enough, or use sage tea instead of the water, or simplj^ dry powdered borax. The Perfect Night Dress is one of the best and safest night wear lor chil- dren. It is one garment, waist, sleeves and drawers ending in feet (regular stocking legs only fitting loosely), can be made of muslin, canton flannel or red flannel and perfectly protects their feet and limbs. Over this, in cold weather, may be worn a flannel sack._ At severe seasons, instead of putting an extra coverlet on the bed, we advise the use of a large bag, made of a light blanket, into which the child may be securely placed, and closely but toned in around neck. Light coverings generally are preferable to heavy ones, if the night clothing and the room are sufficiently warm, as they do not induce prespiration nor check exhalations. 1106 SOMETHING AI50UT liABIEP. Great Care Mast be Taken that the navel of infants takes its properplace. If not attended to it is likely to puff out and jtroduce a breach. If it shows any si pitcher and reach down all sides into the water. Have no cover on the j)it(lici-, wet the doth and coverthe pitcher with it ; put its ends into the water, and set the whoji- into a place where a SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1101 draft of air will pass over it. A mother tried the plan, and during an exceed- ingly hot summer, through the most sultry days and nights of along season, the milk never turned at all. The rationale of the thing is eas^^ The milk is not confined in a close vessel, or in danger of being tainted by nearness to other, perhaps not wholesome, food ; the thin gauze protects it, yet leaves it open ; the draft of air keeps the temperature down by the constant evapor- ation, while the water is constantly sucked up by the cloth, acting like a wick in a lamp, to supply the moisture. The pain of teething may be almost done away, and the health of the child benefitted, by giving it fine splinters of ice, picked oft" with a pin, to melt in its mouth. The fragment is so small that it is but a drop of warm water before it can be swallowed, and the child has all the coolness for its feverish gums without the slightest injury. The avidity with which the little things taste the cooling morsel, the instant quiet which succeeds hours of fretfulness, and the sleep which follows the relief, are the best witnesses to this magic remedy. Ice may be fed to three months' child this way, each splinter being no longer than a common pin, for five or ten minutes, the result being that it has swallowed in that time a teaspoonful of warm water, which so far from being a harm, is good for it, and the process may be repeated hourh^ as often as the fretting fits from teething begin. An ivory ring, a silver dollar, or some similar article should be provided for them to bite on. Give plenty of pure water to drink. Or dip the end of the finger in cold water and rub the inflamed gums. Care of Babies. — It is not necessary to exclude light from room when the babe is born. The admission of sunlight should be regulated ; but a soft and pleasant light is a benefit to both mother and child. The baby should not be carried into a glowing sunshine, but should become gradually accus- tomed to the light. For restlessness or colic in children, give a warm bath at bed-time, dry quickly with soft towels, and rub well with the hand; tlress loosely, wrap in fla-nnei blanket, warm and lay away to sleep, or give three or four swallows of warm water; place one hand on stomach and one on back, and give a liTely trotting. This is better than a barrel of soothing syrup. If one "trip to Boston" on the knee will not do, try two, or three even, with a drink of warm water before starting. For sore mouth or constipation, give three or four swallows of cold water the first thing in the morning. This is both a preventive and a cure ; or sweet flag which may be obtained in a dried state at any drug store, is an excellent remedy for colic in children. Make a mild tea of it, sweeten, and give a teaspoonful whenever there are signs of trouble coming on. One of the best remedies for chafing is cocoa butter, which may be had in cakes at any drug store. AVarm slightly, if necessary, and apply to the chafed parts. Cocoa-nut oil is also excellent for greasing in scarlet fever. Among the old-fashioned and good remedies for the same purpose is the fatty inside of the rind of a smoked ham. For colds, hoarseness, or indications of croup, slice raw onions, sprinkle with granulated sugar, let stand until the juice is extracted (to hasten the flow of the juice, place in heater for a few moments), pour off juice, and give a teaspoonful every hour, or oftener if the case is severe. Greasing the navel, bowels, and up and down spine, at night before go- ing to bed, promotes regular action of the bowels, and cures constipation. If injections are necessary for babies, warm water with a very little pure soap dissolved in it is better than inserting a piece of hard soap, as is often done. Small syringes with flexible tubes, are now made, and are much safer than the old form of syringe. In washing children, do not let the water run into the ears. Children should never be washeil in a careless, slipshod manner. The excretions 1108 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. and tlie exhalations of the skin are often acrid enough to produce great ir- ritation and suffering, and careful washing, with liVjeral enough use of water to insure cleanlinef-s, and rapid and thorough drying, removing every par- ticle of moisture in all the crevices of the skin, and that with a gentle hand. Use as little soap as possible, and that the finest kiml, and be sure to wash it off thoroughly witli pure soft water. After tlu; surface is well dried, any liarmless powder, such as corn starch, may be used to prevent chafing. In the case of a sick child, if the skin is tender when there is pressure, wash with diluted caniplior water. Sick children should not lie long in one position, and the bed slinuld be as smooth as possible. If there is any dis- ease in the head, a hair i)illow or one of finely shredded corn-husks should take the place of a feather pillow. Cool, salt-water baths remove the prickly heat that is so annoying in summer. The warm bath, the water being at about the same heat as the surface of the body, fs best for young children. As they grow older the bath may be made cooler. Always be able to have fire in at least one room in the house, even in the warmest season, if there are children in the family. In the Northern States there is rarely a month in the year during which there is not an oc- casional day or evening when fire would be beneficial. Children should always play on the sunny side of the yard or street in cold weather. The sun-warmed air is what they need. Children less than four years old ought not to play out of doors when the thermometer ranges lower than 25^ above zero. To ventilate apartments without causing a draft, raise the lower sash four to six inches, and place under it a board i)erfectly fitted to the casing, so as to shut out all air. The cold, outside air then passes upward between the sash, to the uj)i)er part of tiie room, and is diff'used without causing a draft. The niglit air is not objectionable, except in malarious regions. Indeed, in cities, the night air is jMirer than wliat is abroad l)y day. In the hot season, children should be kept out of the sun after ten o'clock, and may sit up later than usual at night to enjoy the cool evenings. Excessive heat is as fatal as excessive cold. Keep the baby cool by baths, but never put it to sleep in a room from which the sunshine is constantly kept. No room can be whole- some where sunshine is never admitted. ATNT Martha's prkscrii'tioxs. Give a habe, one to lour weeks old, two teaspoons saffron tea (made by simmering a teaspoon dry saftron in half a teacup water), once every other day. If troubled with colic, give catnip tea (simmering half a teacup of c;it- nip in boiling water to cover, strain and sweeten) every night before the time for colic to come on. Catnip should always be gathered when in bloom, and before dog-days , then dry in the shade. When dried, place in a paper sack, and hang in a r rub- ber cloth, which may be bought by the yard and made at home, makes ex- cellent protection from wet, and yet is not a burden. If replaced by a woolen garment in dry weather, no harm may result. Every school-girl shOuld have a circular cape of this material. Let no desire to have your children in fash- ion induce you to send them out with less clothing for the feet and legs tlian would be required to make a grown person comfortable. The scanty clotliing of the lower limbs brings on repeated attacks of croup and various chseases of the throat and lungs. Not only is this true, but the low temperature and imperfect circulation of the blood" prevents the development of the paits ex- posed and brings on a race of fashionable, but spindle-shanked cliildren. Don't be deceived by the prevailing idea that children of the extremely |)oor, that are half cared for, and of parents who habitually neglect theiu. are "healthy." Among this very class Death makes the heaviest harvest ; and those who live are stunted by neglect in spite of the extra hardiness of con- stitution. Of course, to remove the ordinary clothing and substitute lighter for a party or a heated audience-room, is the height of imprudence. At the close of such an occasion, plenty of wraps should be provideil against the exposure to the cold air when over heated. Young children had best wear Hannel underclothing the whole year. When sudden changes take place to colder weather, see that the children have additional protection before they take cold. Long Clothes. — A proper dress for an infant, is a liandage of soft flannel, put on loosely about the body , a knit woolen shirt, a piiming- blanket, made of a piece of soft white flannel, three-fourths of a yard scjuare, and taken up about one fourth of a yard at the top by a single box-pleat, three inches wide, and caught together on the wrong side for about three inches from the top. On each side of the box-pleat make a small pleat, to be let out as the infant grows. The flannel should be bound with silk binding l>e- fore pleating, pinned on with safety pins next the flannel shirt: a waist with arm-holes but no sleeves, buttoned behind with one small flat button, and having on the bottom one button in front, one on each side, one in center of back, and one an inch and a half on each side of the last-named. The skirt is fastened to these buttons. The three buttons behind serve this purpose. AVhen child is small, each end is carried past the center button to the ones an inch and a half beyond it, but as the child grows and needs more room, the ends are brought together at the center button. The skirt is made of flannel, seven-eights of a yard long. The dress, which should be about one yard loiig, may be made of any white material.- Add to tins a pair of soft knit socks, and the dress is coni|)let('. A modest wardrobe should conipri.se • two knit shirts, three pinning-blankets, four bandages of diflerent sizi's, three flannel skirts, three waists, six nuislin slips, six dresses of diflerent patterns 1»ut about the same in regard to warmth, or better, of same material, ehecked or striped goods, and differently trinuiied, two finer dresses, which may be made a little longer for style, though the weight is objectionable as a burden to the child, two pairs of short socks, and as the child grows older, two pairs of knit boots, and two-dozen diapers (cotton are licst, having more absorbing capacity than linen,) one yard long, and for the first, about five-eights of a 3'ard wide. Fold the inside one once from end to end, and pin one side with safety pins to the flannel band, allowing it to hang down to jirotect the legs. When short dresses are j)ut on, fold the outside diaper as directed above, and MSI" one of liirhter material, or an old thin one for the inside. Fold the SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1111 that has been w latter, end to end once, and then once more in the same direction. The outside one is now in three-cor- nered shaoe ; lay it down with point toward you, lay the other over it, as represented in diagram, and they are ready to put on. For night use. wear a bandage, a pinning blanket, and a flannel night dress, made witli sleeves long enough to gather in with a string over the hands. Of course no garment should be worn at night orn during the day. Short Clothes. — A warm suit for first short clothes of baby during first winter is as follows: A knit flannel shirt, a loose flannel bandage about the body, over the bowels (an excellent iirotection against summer com- plaints, if continued through the next summer), a skirt of opera flannel with a muslin waist, with two rows of but- tons (four in each row), about an inch apart, one to support the skirt and the other for the diaper drawers, which are made of the same flannel as the skirt. The accompanying cuts will explain clearly the manner in which these are made. This useful garment, either in flannel or muslin, may and should be worn from the time short clothes are put on until diapers are left off or even longer. The cut on left hand of page gives the form of garment, when taken ofl'. The one on the right, the same garment when put* on and buttoned up. The dress should l)e of the same material, and color as the skirt and drawers, and cut in Gabrielle style, with long sleeves. Over this wear a white dress of Nainsook, made plain or elaborate, as may be desired. In summer, this suit of skirt, drawers, and dress, made in Silicia, with the overdress of white, is a safe and comfortable dress for a child, and not easily soiled. AUNT EVA's way. This is the idea to start with — that we are dealing with little people. To be sure they are fearfully and wonderfully made, but only in the same sense as their parents. As many of these same parents do not understand tlie first principles of caring for themselves, we are obliged to begin at the beginning. It is important in the life of a child to begin right. The treatment many a babe receives during the first hours of its life causes it to be a puny, suffer- ing infant, giving it a constitution predisposed to disease. The first thing fs to x>rotect the sensitive darling from exposure. There must be absolutely no exposure to chill. This is easily done by plenty of soft, warm flannels— a dozen pieces or more, some of which need be quite shawls. When needed, they must be full of fire warmth, full as they can hold, no matter if it is a warm August night. When the child needs attention, make the physician take a large piece of this and cover it instantly. He can do his whole duty with the child well covered. Never use water for the first bath, but sweet oil ; I prefer the oil of sweet cream, made b_v simmering cream in a shallow disli on the stove until the oil separates, to be applied with a soft piece of warm flannel. If care is used in removing the oil, you will be-surprised to see how sweet the little one looks ; on no account use wateron the child until it is well climatized, say twenty-four to forty-eight hours. When the babe screams through its first toilet operation, it is either cold or frightened. De- sist at om-e, and fold it closely in its warm wrappings, making surethatnoth- ing soiled or damp is touching it. Let the little head be cared for first, then 1112 SOMETHING ABOUT BABIE5. one arm, and so on, keeping the rest of the body carefully covered. After having the oil well apjilied, I would rather my child would lie a week with only its flannel wrappings than be dressed while screaming, but if you go right so far you will have no trouble. Its clothing can be any thing that is warm enough and loose enough. Don't pin it up as if it was to be used to play ball with, and was in danger of getting tumbled to pieces. It is not even to be handled much, but laid away to rest as long as it will, and kept still ; don't let some loving soul keep it swaying around. If it acts like waking up or is uneasy, pass your hands carefully under it, and gently turn it on its other side. Its food, first and only, at present is that which God has so wisely pro- vided ; this is all that it needs, even if it gets but a few drops at a time. If it cannot be satisfied without worrying the mother too much, a little — a very little — fresh cow's milk can be used with pure sugar and one-third water- Always remember this-;-the milk of a "farrow cow" will kill a young Zom6 just as sure as it enters its stomach. I do not think it wise to insist on regular feeding times for nursing in - fants, or as long as milk is the chief sustenance. There are manj' days when the healthiest of children are fretful. Their gums begin to swell younger than is generally supposed. There is nothing more soothing than — well, just let the little pet have its own way ; it will prove to you when it is most comfortable. A baby never cries when it is comfortable ; when it cries it asks for something ; put yourself in its place and maybe you can come near to the understanding. Many of its sufferings are caused by unwise changes in its clothing. You give it a slight cold by your own thoughtlessness ; then for heaven's sake don't give it some soothing syrup to weaken its digestion, and render it liable to be hurt by all food except the simplest. My oldest boy is a victim to soothing medicines. lie must be so careful through water- melon and fruit season, or he will be sick all the time ; but four others, all past five 3'ears old, who never took as much as a cup of sage-tea, of medicine, can digest anything. My remedy for most of the ailments of children is fire warmth. For colic, unpin the little one's clothing so that the fire can shine clear to its arm-pits, warming j'our own hand and pressing it gently over the rest- less little squirmer. This Avill either prevent or cure almost any thing. If it seems very sick, its head hot, you must watch that; I never knew a child to go into fits unless its head was hot and its hands and feet cold. In this case bathe the little feet in warm water ; and, if it is summer, get the leaves of horse-radish, or a plant of that nature, roll and wilt them, and bind on the soles of the feet and in the palms of the hands; not to blister, only to keep moist and warm. If you cannot get the green leaves, ginger on wet warm cloths will do. Then keep the head wet, and keep every one from the room but the one whom the child wishes to take care of it. Give water or milk — whichever the child prefers; or, if not weaned, let it nurse all it wish- es, no matter if it keeps throwing it up — that is nature's provision for nurs- ing babies. It is ready now to be soothed to sleep, and will generally waken with a gentle perspiration. When you think you must give some kind of warm tea, give pure warm water that has been boiled ; it is the best hot drink for either mother or child in pain. My mother was once taken three miles on a cold winter's night to see a younginfant that they feared was going into fits. It screamed and strug- gled and fought for breath, while its young mother, pale with fear, was walk- ing the house crying too. "Why," said mother, "the child has only got the 'snuffles,' bring me a little soft grease." She rubbed the nose gently until the child was partially relieved. Being quite a bad case, she advised the SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1118 mother to milk a stream of breast-milk into the nostril ; she did so, the child sneezed three or four times and dropped asleep in two minutes. This is also all that is needed for weak or sore eyes in an infant — breast milk. For sore mouth, a weak solution of borax ; but your child will not have sore mouth or any other disease, if you follow these directions and your own good sense ; and remember that soothing syrups are the lazy mother's cure. It is so much easier to put a child to sleep than to bathe it and warm it and nurse it welt. For croup, take sweet hog's lard and tincture of camphor or camphor gum and simmer together a short time ; gum the size of a pea to a tablespoon of lard ; keep it in the house prepared, and rub on the throat at first symp- tom. This will relieve any hard cough almost instantly ; if it does not," mix one teaspoon of it with a tablespoon of molasses, and take inwardly. If you are called to a child too bad — too far gone — for these simple remedies, put it in a warm bath as quick as it can be prepared. For whooping-cough, encourage the child to eat sour fruits, either cooked or raw, or both, all it wishes This keeps the system cool, the bowels open, and the throat clear. In weaning your darling, be sure you have plenty of suitable food in the house that the baby is fond of. First teach baby to go to sleep without nursing; after he has become accustomed to this, teach him to do without it during the day, and to go to sleep at bed-time ; then let him nurse all he wishes through the rest of the night, only being careful to leave the bed be- fore he awakens in the morning. Let him nurse this way for several weeks, that the change of living may not be too sudden. I have weaned three children in this way without a single crying spell and no one about the house knew about it. The family physician is a great blessing — more so than his medicine. Never fail to call him in time, if the disease proves stubborn; but let him understand that you wish advice as to nursing, and not his medicine, un- less it is very necessaay. Most people think if a doctor leaves no drugs be- hind his visit is so much lost money ; doctors understand this, and leave- medicine wheffxer necessary or not. As your child conquers one trifling ail- ment after another and grows in health and beauty, you will gradually gain a confidence in nature that will be a great rock of defense for a parent of a growing family ; if you will obey her laws she will never disappoint you. The regular meals, so necessary to the health and comfort of a family, must be regular. If you insist on the children only eating at their meals, don't sit and sew, or visit, with hunger gnawing at their vitals. I think it safest to allow growing children to have a piece between meals, if they are hungry enough to eat dry, light bread ; no butter to grease things, or molas- ses or milk to tempt them to eat more than they need for necessary support. The only trouble, I find, is they soon get to be too fond of the crusts and "pudding pieces." The care of the feet is the great picket post after the child begins to run alone. Watch, watch the little feet that no damp or chill is creeping up to chill the vitals. A pair of warm stockings to each pair of restless feet must be kept by the stove in all damp or cold weather, and never let a child stop a moment its active play until you know whether its feet are warm and dry. You had better change feet- covering four or fi'-'e times a day during tliose delightful, treacherous spring days, than to watch a sick bed and loose your darling at last. This is what neglect of the feet often brings the little ones to. I know the task I am enjoining on mothers and nurses. I have had twenty-three pairs of stockings hanging around my cook-«tove at once, each 1114 SOMETIIINi; AR^ " " 20 to 30 (lavs old 2}.( " 6 " " 1 toll.; mcuiths old 3' " 6^{ " " 1>.,' to 2 " months old 3ii; " 7 " •' " 2 " to 2}., months old 4 " 7K '' " " 2>.< to 3 ~ months old 4'^ " 7>| " " " 3 " to 3>.; months old 5 " 7}4 " «' " 3K to 4 months old oi.C " 7>^ <' " 4 ~ to 4W months old " 7K " " " 4>.< to 5" months old (>'.< " 7>| " " " 5 " to fi months old 7 " 7 " " " 6 to 7 months old 7 " 6)4 " " " 7 to 8 months old 8 " 6 " " " 8 to 9 months old S^i " 6 " " 9 to 10 months old 8'.< " 6 " " " 10 toll months oli " " 15 to 18 months old 9>^ " 5 " " IS months onwards 10 " 5 " !Sndden Checking of Prespiradoti. — A Boston merchant, in ''lending a hand," on board one of his own ships on a windy day, found himself, at the end of an hour and a half, jiretty well exhausted and prespiring freely. He sat ilown to rest, and engaging in conversation, time passed fastur than he SOMETHING ABOUT BABIES. 1117 was aware. In attempting to rise he found he was unable to do so without assistance. He was taken home and put to bed, where he remained two years ; and for a long time after could only hobble about with the aid of a crutch. Less exposure than this have, in constitutions not so vigorous, re- sulted in inflammation of the lungs — "pneumonia" — ending in death in less than a week, or causing tedious rheumatisms, to be a source of torture for a lifetime. Multitudes of lives would be saved every year, and an incalcuable amount of human suffering would be prevented if parents would begin to explain to their children, at the age of three or four years, the danger which attends cooling ofT too quickly after exercise, and the importance of not standing still after exercise, or work, or play, or of remaining exposed to the wind, or of sitting at an open window or door, or of pulling off any garment, even the hat or bonnet while heated. The following rules for the management of infants during the hot season are from Dr. Wilson's '"Summer and Its Diseases": Rule 1. — Bathe the child once a day in tepid water. If feeble, sponge all over twice a day with tepid water, or tepid water and vinegar. Rule 2. — Avoid all tight bandaging. Make clothing light and cool, and so loose that the limbs may have free play. At night undress, sponge, and put on a slip. In the morning remove slip, bathe, and dress in clean clothes if it can be afforded ; if not, thoroughly air clothing by hanging it up during the night. Use clean diapers, and change often. R}de S. — Let the child sleep by itself in a cot or cradle. Put to bed at regular hours, and teach t.o go to sleep without being nursed in the arms. Give no cordial, soothing syrup, or sleeping drojjs without the advice of a phi/si- cian. They kill thousands of children every year. If the child frets it is hungrv or ill. Never quiet a child by candy or cake. They are common causes of diarrhea and other troubles. Rule 4- — Give the child plenty of fresh air. Give it plenty of pure cold water. Keep it out of room? where cooking or washing is going on. Exces- sive heat kills children. Rule 5. — Keep the house sweet and clean, cool and well aired. In hot weather leave windows open day and night. Cook in the yard, in a shed, or in the garret. Whitewash walls every spring, and keep cellar free of rub- bish. Let no slops collect. Disinfect privies and sinks by a solution of copperas, and get your neighbors to clean up. Rule 6. — If the supply of breast-milk is ample, and the child thrives, give no other food in hot weather. If the supply is short give goat's or cow's milk in addition. Nurse once in two or three hours by day, and as seldom as possible at night. Remove child from breast as soon as it falls asleep, and never give the breast when overheated or fatigued. Rule 7. — If brought up by hand, give goat's milk, or cow's milk, and use no other food while hot weather lasts. For an infant that has not cut its iront teeth, no substitute for milk is safe. Creeping children rcfust not be allowed to pick up unwholesome food. Rule 8. — If milk is pure add one-third hot water to it until child is three months old ; afterwards gradually lessen the water. Sweeten each pint with a heaj)ing dessert-spoonful of sugar of milk, or a teaspoon crushed sugar. When very hot weather give milk cold. It must be unskimmed and as fresh as possible, and brought very early in the morning. Scald pans to be used with boiling suds. In very hot weather boil milk as soon as it comes, and remove to the coolest place in the house upon ice or down in a well. In a warm room it soon spoils. 111>> SOMETHI>'G ABOUT BABIKS. Hull' 'J. — It tilt' milk disagrees add a tablespoon of lime water to eacli buttk'fiil- If i)Ure milk can not be had, try condeii.sed milk, sold by all jrro- cers. Prepare by adding to six tablespoons boiling water, without sugar one ta1)lespo(in or more of the milk, accordnig to age oi child. It this dI^l agrees, a teaspoon of arrowroot, sago, or cornstarch may be added to a l)int ot nnlk, as prepared under Rule 8, and cautiously tried. If milk can not be digested try, for a few days, pure cream, diluted with three-fourths to four-fifths water, returning to milk as soon as possible. Rule 10. — The nursing bottle muHt he kept perfecthj dean, otherwise the milk will turn sour, and the child will be made ill. Empty after each meal, rinse Hrst with cold water, take apart, and place nipi)le and bottle in clean water, to which a little soda has been added. It is Ijctter to have two bottles and use them by turns. The plain bottle with rubber nipj)le is better than the tube, which is difficult to keep clean. Rub' 11 — Do not wean a child just before or during hot weather ; nor as a rule, until after its second summer. If sucking disagrees with the mother she must imt wean the child, Init feed it in part from the nursing bottle as •lirecte(l. However small the supply of breast milk, the mother should keep it up against sickness. It v'dl often y.are tlie life of a cliild irJwn trcnjthinfj eh'' Jails AVhen over six months old the mother may save her strength by triv- ing it one or two meals a day of stale bread and milk, which should be i)ress- ed through a sieve, and put into a nursing bottle. When from eight months to a year old, it may have also one meal a day of the yolk of a fresh, rare boiled egg, or one of beef or mutton broth, into which stale bread has been cruml)led When oldei it can have a little meat, finely minced ; but even then milk should be its principal food, and not what grown people eat. Rule 13. — If a child is suddenly taken with vomiting, and purging, ami l)rostrati()ii, send for the doctor at once. INIeantime, put the child for a trw minutes m a hut bath, then carefully wipe dry with a warm towel, and wraj) in warm blankets. If hands and feet are cold, apply Iwttles filled with hot watei wrappe(lin flannel. Place a mush ])oultice or flaxseed jmultice to which one (piarti'r part of mustard flour has been added, or flannels wrung out of hot vinegar and water, overthe bowels, (iiveevery fifteenminutes. five drops brandy in a teaspoonful of water; if vf)miting continues, give the brandy in the same quantity of milk and lime water. If the diarrluea has just begun, or if caused by improper food, jrive a teaspoonful of castor->il. or spiced syrup of rhubarb. If the cliild has been fed partially on breast-milk, mother's milk alone must l)e used now. If weaned, dilute ])ure milk with lime-water, or give weak beef tea or chicken water. Let child drink cold water fn-ely. Remove soiled diallers at once fn>m the room but save for the examination of the physician. The giving of an injection of a teaspoon or two oi ice-cohl water after each passage is of great benefit. HINTS FOR THE WELL. - IIT^ HINTS FOR THE W^ELL. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Always rest before and after a hearty meal. Do not eat too much. Do not eat late at night. Food, especiallj' bread, should never be eaten hot. Cliildi-en sliould never be diessed in tight clothes. Never sit in a damp or chilly room without a tire. Supper just before going to bed is highly injurious. If hungry, a bit of bread or cracker will check the craving without spoiling sleei>. Never enter a room where a person is sick with an infectious disease with an empt}' stomach. When reall}- sick, send for a good physician ; and as you value your health and life, have nothing to do until quacks and patent medicines. The condiments, pepper, ginger, etc., are less injurious in summer. Fat l)eef, bacon, and hearty food may be eaten more freely in winter. ]Most people drink too much and too fast. A small quantity of water sip- jied slowly satisfies thirst as well as a pailful swallowed at a draught. Let the amount of the meal bear some relation to future needs as well as present appetite ; but it is lietter to carry an extra pound in vour pocket tlian in your stomach. A small quantity of plain nourishing soup is a wholesome first course at dinner. Rich soups an; injurious to persons of weak digestion, and a large (juantitj^ of liquid food is not beneficial to adults. A famous caterer adds half teaspoon chicken pepsin to each pint mayon- naise dressing for chicken salad, and claims one can eat thereof late at night and yet have pleasant dreams. Three full meals daily are customary but the number, the relative quan- tity and quality, and the intervals between them, are largely matters of opinion, habit and convenience ; regularity is the important thing. Exercise before breakfast shoiild be very light , and it is better to take a cracker or some trifle before going out, especially in a miasmatic climate. Early breakfa.sts are a necessity to the young and growing. Sponge ofT your neck, throat and chest in cold water every morning, dry quickly with a soft towel, then rub with a rough one ; do not be more than a minute about it , and a sore throat will rarely trouble you. A towel may be roughened by dipping in strong brine, tlien drying. 1120 HINTS FOR THE WELL. Remember that when the stomach is sour after eating, the food is actu- ally rotting — that is a nauseating word but it expresses the absolute fact in the case— a'lid it means that some of the rules given have been violated. Yj-dt in pure air and in pleasant company ; light conversation and gentle exercise promotes digestion, but hard work of any kind retards it. Avoid se- vere bodily or mental labor just before and for two hours after a full meal. Drinks at meals should be taken at the close, and not too strong or hot. Dyspeptics especially should drink sparingly. Children need more than adults, but too much" is injurious. Masticate well ; five minutes more at dinner may give you better use of an hour afterward. At meals never drink a full glass of very hot or very cold liquid. Never wash down a mouthful. xVvoid waste of saliva. Adults need to eat at regular intervals two or three times a day, allowing time for each meal to be fully digested before another is taken. It would spoil a loaf of bread, half baked, to poke a lump of cold dough into the mid- dle of it. Avoid colds and break up as soon as possible when taken. As soon as conscious that the pores are closed, keep warm within doors, drink warm ginger tea, relax the bowels, and take a vapor bath. Breaking a cold up early, often saves a severe attack of congestion, pneumonia, often even a fever. Avoid tobacco, alcohol in all forms, and all stimulants. Every healthy man is better, stronger, has a clearer head, more endurance, and better "hances for a long life, if fiee from the habitual use of stimulants. The boy who begins the use of tobacco or liquors early is physically ruined. When too many oysters have been incautiously eaten, and are felt lying cold and heavy on'tlie stomach, there is an infallible remedy in hot milk, of wliicli half a pint may be drank, and it will quickly dissolve the oysters into a l)land, creamy jelly. Weak and dyspeptic persons should always take hot milk after meals of oysters. Use good palatable food, not highly seasoned, vary in quantity and quals ity according to age, climate, weather and occupation. Unl)olted ami par. tially bolted grains are good and sufficient food for men ; but nature crave- variety. As a rule, the flesh of meat-eating animals is not wholesome food- Hot soft bread digests slowly. Don't eat too fast ; the digestive organs are something like a stove, which if choked up and out of order, burns slowly, and if you keep piling in fuel, grows more and more choked.* The wiser course is to let it burn down and put in fuel only when needed. It is a foolish notion that food always keeps up the strength. Onh' what we digest helps us ; all beyond that is a tax up- on the system, and exhausts the strength instead of increasing it. Panaceas are prima facie humbugs ; their makers and takers, their ven- ders and recommenders are knaves or fools, or both. Nature cures most dis- eases, if let alone or aided bv diet and proper care. There are no miracles in medicine ; remember that to keep or to get health generally requires only a recognition of Nature's powers, with knowledge of anatomy and physiology, experience and common sense. Never sleep in clothing worn during the day, and let that worn at night be exposed to the air bv day. Three pints of moisture, filled with the waste of the body, are given off everv twenty-four hours, ami mostly absorbed by clothing. "Exposure to air and sunlight purifies the clothing and bedding of the poisons which nature is trying to get rid of, and which woiild otherwise De brought a;;ain in contact with the body. HINTS FOR THE WELL. 1121 Flannel underwear should reach from throat to wrists and ankles in winter. Why sliould the leas of children be lett with less protection from the cold than the rest of the body ? They sliould be loose and eas}^ in every part with allowance for shrinkage and growth. The legs should slope by botli outside and inside seams, from the calf of the leg down. Leave them open a few inches at the bottom of the inner seam, that they may be folded smooth- ly under the stocking. Ventilation cannot be accomplished by simply letting the pure air in ; the bad air must be let out. Open a window at top and bottom, hold a light- ed candle in the draft, and see the flame turn outward at the top and inward at the bottom, showing the purifying currents. Windows on opposide sides ot the room ventilate still more perfectly. In sleeping rooms avoid "drafts" when possible, but danger of taking cold from them may be averted by extra clothing. In living-rooms, an open fire-place or grate insures ventilation. It should be remembered that the use of chloride of lime, and other fu- migators, does not destroy filthiness, but onh' renders it less evident. Clean- liness, fresh air, and sunlight will purity. Chanliness is a very strong word. Carpets filled with dust or grease, dirty furniture, or walls covered with old paper, defile the atmosphere as much as a refuse heap in the cellar or back yard. A dark house is generally unwholesome and dirty. The sunlight is second only in importance to fresh air. To convince one that light purifies, it is only necessary to go into a darkened room and not the corrupt smell. The lungs should be trained to free, full, and vigorous action "The breath IS the life." A man Avill exist for days without food, but when the breath is cut otf life ceases. If breathing is imperfect, all the functions of the bod}?^ work at a disadvantage. It is a common fault to breathe from the surface of the lungs only, not bringing into play the abdominal muscles, and so not filling the more remote air-cells of the lungs. By this defactive action the system is deprived of a part oi its sup])ly of air, and by inaction the air- cells become diseased. Evacuate the bowels daily, and, above all, regularly; the best time is after breakfast ; partly to be rid of a physical burden during the day, but chiefly to relieve the boweis. Constipation is safer than diarrhoea. For the former, exercise, ride horseback, knead the belly, take a glass of cool water before breakfast, eat fruit and laxative food ; for the latter, follow an opposite course — toast, crusts, crackers and rice are the best food. Pain and uneasi- ness of digestive organs^are signs of disturbance ; keep a clear conscience ; rest, sleep, eat properly ; avoid §trong medicines in ordinary cases. Keep the person scrupulously clean ; change the clothing worn next to the skin (which should be flannel) often. Don't economize in washing bills. A cold bath every morning for very vigorous persons, or once or twice a week and thorough rubbing with a coarse towel or flesh brush, mornings when bath is not taken, for the less robust, is necessary to keep the functions of the skin in health, and is very invigorating. After warm baths a dash of cold water will prevent chill and "taking cold." In bathing in winter, the shock from cold water is lessened by standing a minute in the cold air after the removal of clothing before applying water. In the winter there is great necessity of dressing to keep the body warm by preserving its natural heat. The color as well as the texture of under- wear is a matter of consequence . Of all the different materials of which it is made, scientific researches, as well as practical experience and experi- ments, show very clearly that wool is the best material for warmth, silk coming next in the list, cotton next and linen last. The neglect to wear warm woolen undergarments is a very common cause of the ill-health of women and children. 1122 HINTS FOR THE WELL. The use of close stoves, and close rooms, are the causes of the increased jtrevalence and fatality, in winter, of small pox, scarlet fever and other con- tagious diseases. Colds are often, if not generally, the result of debility, and are preceded l)y disordered digestion. Such cases are prevented by a removal of the c .use by diet and pure air. Extreme cold or heat, and sudden exposure to cold by passing from a heated room to cold outside air, is verv injurious to the old or weak. All such should avoid great extremes and sudden changes. In passing from heated assemblies to the cold air, the mouth should be kept (dosed, and the breathing done through the nostrils only, so that the cold air maj'be warmed before reaching the lungs, which have just been immersed in a hot-air bath. Tlie injurious effect of such sudden changes is caused by driving the blood from the surface to the internal organs, producing con- gestion. An intelligent physician says : "It is a good rule always to ride up in an elevator, and when coming down to take the stairs. Like goingup hill, walk- ing up stairs is hard work, and sometimes risky, especially for people with weak lungs, defective respiratory organs, or heart disease. P>ut going down stairs hurts nobody, but is good exercise ; going down on a brisk run is really a good thing — it sliakes up the anatomy, without incuring the danger of phys- ical over exertion. This shaking up is good for one's internal mechanism, which it accelerates, especiallv the liver, the kidnevs, and the blood circu- lation." Bad smells mean that decay is going on somewhere. Rotten particles are floating in the air, and penetrating the nostrils and lungs. Their offen- siveness means that they are poison, and will produce sickness and death, or so reduce the tone of the system that ordinarily mild disorders will prove fatal. In all such cases remove the cause when possible. Many of these poisons are given off by the body, and are removed by pure air, as dirt is Avashed away by water. Soiled or foul air can not purify any more than dirty water will clean dirty clothes. Pure air enters the lungs, becomes charged wiih waste particles, which are poison if taken back again. An adult spoils 07ie gallon of pure air every mimitr, or twenty-five flour barrelfiils in a single niglit, in breathing alone. A lighted gas-burner consumes eleven gallons, and an ordinary stove twenty-five gallons a minute. Think of these facts be- fore sealing up the fire-place, or nailing down the windows for winter. Let the sunshine into every room in the house. The sunlight is a great purifier. Keep the cellar not only clean and sweet, but give it fresh air and good ventilation, or it will poison the rest of the house. If one is accustomed to sleej^ing with windows open, there is no danger of taking cold from the exposure, winter or summer. People who shut up windows to keep out "night air," make a mistake. At night, the only air to breathe is "night air." A bed that has been made up for a week or longer is not fit to sleep in. It has gathered moisture and should be aired. "When fixed wash-bowls stand in sleeping-rooms, the waste pipe should be carefully closed, as sewer gases often escape through them into the room. ]Many of the colds which people are said to catch, connuence at the feet. To keep these extremities warm, therefort', is to ettect an insurance against the almost interminable list of disorders which sjiring out of a "slight cold." First, never be tightly shod. Boots and shoes when they fit closely, press af'ainst the foot and prevent a free circulation of the blood. When, on the contrary, they do not embrace the foot too tightly the blood gets fair play, and the places left between the leather and the stockings are filled with a comfortal-le supply of warm air. The second rule is, never to sit in damj> shoes. It is often imagined that unless they are positively wet it is not neceesarv to chaufjc them while the feet are at rest. This is a fallacy; fur HINTS FOK THE WELL. 1123 when the least dampness is absorbed in the sole, it is attracted nearer to the foot itself by its own heat, and thus perspiration is dangerously checked. Any person may prove this, b}' trying the experiment of neglecting this rule, and his feet will Ijecome cold and damp after a few moments, although, tak- ing off the shoe and warming it, it will appear quite dry. Remember that there is no patent medicine or "patent pad," warranted to "cure by absorption," that will absorb disease half as rapidly as a wet towel wrapped around the body, and covered with a dry flannel. If people were re(iuired to pay $10 each "for this "valuable secret" there would be no difficulty in getting millions of testimonials to its efficacy. It is too cheap to be popular with people who liked to be humbugged ; but when humbugs all fail, try hot and cold water. One of the most prominent writers on health topics says: "The great practical lesson which I wish to inculate, to be engraven as on a plate of steel, on the memory of children and youth, young men and women, the mature and the gray-headed : Allow no'thiny short of fire or endangered life to induce you to resist, for one single moment, nature's alvine call. So far from refusing a call for any reason short of life and death, you should go at the usual time and solicit, and doing so you will have your reward in a degree of healthfulness, and in a length of life, which very few are ever permitted to enjoy. If the luve of health and life, or the fear of inducing painful disease can not induce you to adopt the plan I have recommended, there is another argument which, to young gentlemen and j'oung ladies, may appear more convincing — personal cleanliness. [If you suffer yourself to become and re- main costive you will smell badly ; the breath of a costive child even is scarcely to be endured.] Cold feet, sick headache, piles, fistulas, these, with scores of other diseases, have their first foundations laid in constipation, which itself is infallibly induced by resisting nature's first calls. Reader, let it be your wisdom never to do it again." A Dyspeptic's Fight fok Life. Judge W. was a dyspeptic, for five weary years. He tried travel, but neither the keen air of the sea-shore nor the bracing breezes of the Northern prairies brought him relief. He tried all the panaceas and all the doctors at home and abroad in vain. Some told him that he had heart-disease, others tliought it was inflammation of the spleen, gout, Bright's disease, liver com- plaint, lung difficulty or softening of tlie brain. Bottle after liottle of nos- trums Avent down the unfortunate man's throat, and it was only when phys- icians and friends gave liim up, and pronounced him to all intents a dead man, that he threw bottles, plasters, powders and pills to the four winds, and, with the energy of despair, set about disappointing his doctors, and getting ready to live despite their ghastly predictions. Then begin a fight for life against dysjiepsia, a fight which many have begun, but few have won. He bathed the whole body every morning in cold water, summer and winter, not by a shower or a plunge, but by vigorously dashing the water on the body with tlie hands, and afterwards rubbing briskly with a coarse towel. This was continued without missing a single^norning for years. In the meantime the strictest diet was instituted. By experimenting the patient found what he could eat without harm, and ate that only in very small quantities, measuring his food on his plate before beginning his meal, and limiting himself rigidly to that quantity. His principal food for nearly three years was cracked wheat and Graham mush, and the last meal was taken at two o'clock in the afternoon — not a particle of food passed his lips from that time until the next morning, thus giving the stomach complete rest and time to begin the work of recuperation. Special attention was given to eating slowly and tlior(iughly masticating the food; and not to eat too much, too 1124 JUM? l-Di; THE WELL. f fast, or too often, were rules strictly and rigidly observed. Bathing, diet, rest, sleep, and gentle exercise in the open air did the work. It was a dread- ful conflift — days of struggle and temptation, requiring more heroism and steady tenacity of purpose than would nerve a soldier for battle, for such a battle is for the day, but this fight was renewed every morning and contin- ued every day for montlis and years. But patience, courage, intelligent judgement, and a strict adherence to the above regimen won the day with- out a grain or a drop of medicine, and Judge AV. believes that the good Lord of us all has never permitted any man to discover or invent medicine that will cure dyspepsia. Nature is the only perfect physician. Cold water, fresh air, the natural grain (wAeat), sleeji, rest, and gentle exercise, make up the grand panacea. AVith these alone, and the self-denial and moral courage to persist in the good fight, the confirmed, nervous, miserable dys- peptic, became a well, strong and hearty man — in five days? No. In five mouths ? No. In five years ? Yes ; and after the fight when contemplating the victory won, he could say with the model idiilanthrojihist, Amos Law- rence, after his battle of fifteen long years with the same disease, "If men only knew" how' sweet the victory is, they would not hesitate a moment to engage in the conflict." There are certain articles of diet that must be discarded by all persons who have a weak digestion and certain dietetic rules which must be con- formed to by all. To the most important of these we will now call attention : Kat slowly, masticating the food very thoroughly even more so, if possiljle than is required in health. The more time the food spends in the mouth the less it will spend in the stomach. Avoid drinking at meals, at most take a few sips of warm water at the close of the meal, if the food is A'ery dry in character. In general, dyspeptic stomachs manage dry fruit better than that containing much liquid. Eat neither very hot or cold food. The best temperature, about that of the body. Avoid exposure to cold after eating. Be careful to avoid excess in eating. Eat no more than the wants of the system requires. Sometimes less than is really needed must be taken when digestion is very weak. Strength depends not on w'hat is eaten, but what is digested. » - Never take violent exercise of any sort, either mental or ]jhysical, either just before or just after a meal. It is not good to sleep immediately after eating, nor within four hours of a meal. Never eat more than three times a day, and make the last meal A'ery light. For many dyspeptics two meals are better than more. Never eat a morsel of anything between meals. Never eat when tired, Avhether exhausted from mental or physicial labor. Never eat when the mind is worried or the temper rutfied, if possible to avoid do- ing so. Eat only food that is easy of digestion, avoiding c(>mplicated and in- digestible dishes, and taking but one to three kinds at a meal. Most per- sons will be benefitted by the use of oat-meal, wheat-meal or graham fiour, cracked wheat and other whole-grain preparations, though many will find it necessary to avoid vegetables, especially when fruits and meats were taken. The flesh of wihl game is usually more easy of digestion than that of domes- tic animals, and is less likely to be diseased. Fats ai-e injurious to dyspep- tics almost without exception. If eaten at all, butter is the only form ad- missible, and this should never be eaten cooked, but cold on bread. Broil- ing is the best mode of cooking meat. ''High" meat should never be eaten as it has begun to decay. ^leat and vegetables do not agree well together. Fruit and vegetables often disagree. Some cases must be required to dis- card vegetables altogether. Milk does not agree well with either vegetables or fruits. Milk is easier of digestion Avhen boiled than when in its natural state. Warm food is easier of digestion than cold, with the exception of fer- mented bread, which should be eaten stale. Cold meat and meat that has '"been warmed over"' are not easy of digestion. , HINTS FOR THfi~WELL. 1125 Popular Errors In Diet. — An eminent physician has prepared this article giving the following errors : It is an error to suppose that the appetite is • always a correct criterion of the quantity and quality of food. This is a widely prevalent error and some very distinguished physicians have given it countenance and endorsement by saying to patients, when asked for a diet prescription, "Eat whatever and whenever you have a mind to." No ad- vice could be more mischievous. It virtually assumes either that there is no relation between diet and health that it makes no difference what a per- son eats, or that the appetite is an infallible guide, both of which sup))osi- tions are palpably false. If all appetites were natural appetites, if there were no such thing as depraved taste, then might the appetite be relied upon, but in the present state of things among civilized human beings scarcely one person in a hundred has a perfectly normal taste and appetite, if the number be not even smaller. The appetite is to some degree a guide, but it must be controlled and governed by common sense, by a knowledge of the laws of digestion and the relation of elementary substances to the stomach and the system. Either extreme on this point is bad. The »ppetite must not be ignored and it must not be blindly followed unless it is known to be normal in its inclinations. It would be just as proper to advise a person to speak anything that comes into his mind, to do everything for which he has an in- clination, and to thus follow implicitly all the promptings of his various organs, as to tell him to eat everything which he feels disposed to. It is an error to suppose that sick persons whose appetites are poor, should be tempted to eat by means of tidbits and dainties. Nothing is more common than for them to be besieged with such unwholesome substances as preserves, rich jellies and sauces, pies, cakes, confectionery, etc. About as soon as a person is taken sick, in some communities, the neighbors begin to show their sympathy by contributions of all sorts of unwholesome and in- digestible viands, and the invalid, whose stomach may be unable to digest any but the very simplest food, beeomes a victim to the kindness of friends. Many times have the best efforts of the intelligent physician been bafHed in this manner. "Killed by kindness" of this sort might be written on many a tombstone. The general belief that these things are essential for the sick when confessedly bad for the well is forcibly illustrated by the story con- cerning the old gentleman who arrived home late at night and not finding any pie in the cupboard awoke his wife with the exclamation, "Wliy, what would you do if anyone should be sick in the night!" Every physician ought to look carefully after this matter whenever he has a patient in charge and the absurdity of the custom should be thoroughly exposed. The want of appetite in sick people, especially fever patients is usually an indication that the stomach is not in a condition to digest food if it is received, and only the most digestible should be given, and that in small quantities. It is an error to suppose that children especially, need large quantities of fat and sugar. The opinion has been gaining of late, that fat and sugar are preventitives of consumption when fed to children so as to increase their fat. From some considerable observation on the subject, we are decidedly of the opinion that the practice is a bad one and the theory upon which it is based wholly erroneous. These substances are themselves difficult of di- gestion (this is especially true of fat) and hinder the digestion of food, thus producing dyspepsia which causes decay of the teeth and doubtless an equally marked deterioration in other parts of the system. The notion that the ap- petite for sugar is a natural one is shown to be false by the fact stated by Dr. Anthony Carlisle, the Artie traveler. According to Mr. Carlisle, the lit- tle folks in the vicinity of the North Pole are not fond of sweets. He says that when sugar was placed in their mouths they made very wry faces and sputtered it out with disgust. There is no evidence whatever that it "pre- 1126 HINTS FOR THE WELL. serves the teeth," "aids digestion," "promotes growth" or "prevents con- •siuuption," as many persons believe. It is an error to suppose that many varieties of food are essential to good digestive nutrition. The common sense of most people who suffer with weak digestion has taught them that one or two kinds of food at a meal are more easily digested than a large variety, notwithstanding the erroneous teaching of some popular authors on this subject. It is true that the appe- tite sometimes refuses food when its use is long continued without change, but the variety should be obtained by employing different foods or dishes at different meals rather than at the same meal. There is no doubt that dys- pepsia is not unfrequently the result of the indiscriminate gormandizing in which people indulge wdiose chief aim in eating is to satisfy the palate. It is a very great error to suppose that brain-workers, students, clergy- men, lawyers and other persons whose vocation is largely sedentary, require but little food. The very opposite is true. A brain worker uses upas much blood in three hours •f intense labor as the muscle worker in ten hours of ordinary toil. Brain workers should be well fed, but they must not be over- fed. Many of the cases of apoplexy in professional men, set down to over- work, are really attributable to overeating. A brain worker needs as much food and as nutritious food as a muscle worker, but he is compelled to be more careful in its selection, and cannot exceed with impunity the limits of his actual needs. This point is often neglected with reference to school- children, especially girls, who are not unfrequently allowed to make the at- tempt to live and study hard on a slice or two of wheat bread and a cup of coffee for breakfast, bread and butter and pickles for dinner and a morsel chiefly made up of "dessert" at night, when dinner is taken at six, as in many* of the large cities. In many female boarding schools the dietary is neglected, an insufficient amount of nourishing elements being furnished to support the vigorous mental effort required of students. Under such a regi- me it is no wonder that many young women break down just when they ought to be enjoying the highest degree of health and strength. We arc thoroughly convinced that a much larger share of the breakdowns among .students, both male and female, is due to poor feeding more than to overstudy. It is an error to suppose that fish or any other single article of diet is brain food, muscle food, or food for any particular part of the system, A few vears ago a celebrated scientist made the casual suggestion that perhaps fish food might be especially nourishing to the brain, as there was considerable phosphorous in the brain and also in the fish. The notion spread like a her- esy, and soon fish of all sorts, big and little, scaly fish, shell fish, and fish with neither scales nor shell, were devoured in unprecedented quantities by microcephalous people and people whose brains were not obviously too small, tor the purpose of obtaining the supposed specific effects of a fish diet. A uentleman eager to cultivate his brain and induce an increased growth, ad- dressed a letter to a noted wag, asking for advice respecting the quantity of tish which he must eat per day. The answer he received was a fitting criti- cism on the theory and undoubtedly discouraged the aspirations of the young man, being to the effect tnat a small whale would be about the right quantity for a meal. The falsity of the theory has been repeatedly shown by the citation of the fact that the lowest of human races are those that live almost exclusively upon tish. In civilized countries, also, as in the vicinity of large fisheries, whole communities often make fish their alrnost exclusive diet, and vet there is no evidence that their mental capacity is increased thereby. In "fact, the low mental and moral status of these people would furnish an argu- ment on the opposide side of the question if it were neces.sary to offer such an argument. ITIXTS 1 OI? TIIK AVEI.L. Vi It is an error to suppose that people suffering with nervous debility, nau- rasthenia or other forms of nervous weakness, need large quantities of llesh food. It is a very common custom when it is decided that a person has any form of nervous disorder accompanied by weakness or impaired nutrition, to place them at once on a diet consisting largely of flesh, as beefsteak, mutton- chops, etc. Sometimes the drinking of blood is recommended. That this indiscriminate practice is a bad one we have often had occasion to notice. It not infrequently happens that the excessive use of flesh food is a cause of nervousness, as has been repeatedly pointed out, and we believe that whether its use is advised or not, its use should depend on the condition of the stom- ach rather than on the nerves. A person whose stomach is very feeble may be enable to digest sufficient vegetable food to replenish the tissues, for such persons a flesh diet or a mixed diet will be found to be very advantageous. It is a most erroneous notion that ''rich food" is strengthening. The strengthening quality of food depends first upon its digestibility, and second upon the proportion of albuminous elements wh^ch it contains. Sugar, fat, spices and other ingredients which are added to food in making it "rich" are of only secondary importance as nutritive elements and in the case of condi- ments of exceedingly doubtful value, if not wholly worthless. In the manner in which these substances are combined in "rich food" they are worse than worthless. Really rich food is that which contains a large proportion of the essential elements of food in a condition to be easily assimilated. Graham bread, oatmeal mush, pea-soup, baked beans and kindred foods, are really rich, and in the highest degree strengthening. It is an error to suppose that persons engaged in laborious occupations re- quire a large amount of flesh food. Persons who labor hard either physicallv or mentally, need a liberal supply of food rich in albuminous elements. These elements are furnished by such food as pease and beans in even laro'er (juantities than in the best beefsteak. A pound of pease contains four ounces of albuminous elements, while a pound of beefsteak contains but about three ounces. Oatmeal and wheat meal are also very rich in albuminous elements, The Scotch laborers who subsist largely upon oatrreal porridge are said to be among the finest developed and hardiest men in the world. Numerous sim- ilar evidences in favor of a liberal supply of vegetable food might be given. It is an error to suppose that the system is better supported by meals at very frequent intervals than by food taken in accordance with the known time required for digestion. It has long been the c«stom to supply laborers undergoing severe exertion, as during harvest time among farmers with two or three extra meals during the day, thus often bringing meals within two or three hours of each other. We believe that the practice is a bad one and that three meals at most are much better than more. The custom of eating five meals a day, common in some foreign countries, is certainly unphysiological, and must be injurious. Children are often injured by too frequent feeding; not only while infants, but after having grown so as to be large enough to attend school, being very often supplied ])y fond mothers with luncheon for recess, and apples to eat at all hours. It is a most unwise thing to allow children to form the habit of nibbling at food between meals. The fact that they are growing and need a large supply of nourislnnent is no apology for the practice, but rather makes it the more necessary that thev should be regular in their habits in order to secure good digestion. The stomach needs rest as well as the arms and limbs and other organs of the body. ^lore food will be well digested with three meals than with a larger num})er, and hence a larger amount of good blood will be ])roduced and more healthv tissue formed. 1128 HINTS FOR THE WELL, It is an error to suppose that the best preparation and support for extra- ordinary exertion is increasing the amount of food eaten proportionately. It is generally supposed that if a man has -an unusually large days work to perforn^ he must eat an unusually large breakfast and a proportionately large dinner. This is certainly an error. Large demands upon either the muscular or the nervous system for the time being detract from the power to digest. The stomach requires nervous energy to enable it to perform its lUnction. If the nervous forces are otherwise engaged or used they can not brt utilized in digestion ; hence it follows, theoretically at least, that instead of giving the organs an extra task in preparation for an extra effort, they should be required to perform less than the ordinary amount of labor. Ex- perience as well as theory supports this view. Sir Isaac Newton when em- ployed in his most ardous labors, lived upon bread and water, and fasted for long intervals. General Elliot, the famous defender of Gibraltar, is said to have subsisted for a number of days on a little boiled rice. The wonderful "L'Homme Serpente" of Paris, always fasted for twelve hours before at- tempting to perform his marvelous feats of agility. This plan not only se- cures a higher degree of efficiency in the effort made, but prevents in great degree, the injury liable to result from excessive exertion. When required to overwork for a succession of days, we have found that we were not only able to perform much more work, but do it with less effort at the time, and less exhaustion afterward, when taking a greatly reduced quantity of food, than when attempting to do the same work and still taking the usual quan- tity of food. AVe have no doubt that a neglect of this precaution is a not un- frequent cause of the sudden deaths of which we so often receive accounts, especially among politicians and public men. Overloading the stomach and overworking the brain at the same time is exceedingly dangerous. The man who overworks mentally must be temperate, he must exercise the greatest moderation in his eating, and must totally discard all stimulants and narcotics. A great share of the cases of apoplexy which occur, happen when the stomach is full. The increased clearness of intellect which results from abstemiousness, well repays one for all the self-denial practiced. HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1129 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. The sick-room should be the lightest, most cheerful, and best ventilated room in the house. Patients in the sunny wards of hospitals recover soon- est, and the sick, in nearly all cases, lie with their faces to the light. Every thing should be kept in perfect neatness and order. Matting is better than a carpet, though, when the latter is used, is may be kept clean by throw- ing a few damp tea-leaves over only a part of the room at a time, then quietly brushing them up with a hand-broom. A table not liable to injury, a small wicker basket with compartments to hold the different bottles of medicine and a small book in which to write all the physician's directions, two baskets made on the same plan to hold glasses or cups, screens to shade the light from the eyes of the patient, a nursery-lamp with which to heat water, beet- tea, etc., a quill tied on the door-handle with which the nurse can notify others that the patient is asleep by merely passing the feather-end througli the kej'-hole, several "ring cushions" to give relief to patients compelled to lie continually in one position (these cushions are circular pieces of old linen sewed together and stuffed with bran ; or pads may be used, made of cotton- batting basted into pieces of old muslin of any size required), and a sick couch or chair, are a few of the many conveniences which ought to be in every sick-room. Pure air in a sick-room is of the utmost importance. In illness, the poi- soned body is desperately trying to throw off, through lungs, skin, and in every possible way, the noxious materials that have done the mischief. Bad air and dirty or saturated bed-clothes, increase the difficulty at the very time when the weakened powers need all the help they can get. Avoid air from kitchen or close closets. Outside air is the best, but if needed, there should be afire in the room to take off the chill. A cold is rarely taken in bed, with the bed-clothes well tucked in, but oftener in getting up out of a warm bed when the skin is relaxed. Of course anything like a "chill" should be avoided, and it is not well to allow a draft or current of air to pass directly over the bed of the patient. A good way to secure a fresh supply of air, without a draft, is to have a board five or six inches wide, and as long as the width of the window ; raise the lower sash, place board under it, and the fresh air finds its way in be- tween the sash by an upward current. 11.00 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. This simple contrivance slips over the gas burner, and furnishes a se- cure stand on which to set a cup or tea pot, when it will heat in a few mo- ments. It is invaluable in a sick room or nursery, in a house where gas is used, and when gas is not iised there are substitutes for the same purpo.se which burn alcohol. In disease less heat is produced by the body ' than in health. This decline occurs even in sum. mer, and is usually most evident in the early Gas Heater. moming, wheu the vital powers slacken, the food of the previous day having been exhausted. The sick should be watched between midnight and ten or eleven in the morning, and if an)' decline in heat is noticed, it should be supplied by jugs of hot water. A sick-room should, above all, be quiet. Any ru.stling sound, such art that of a silk dress or shoes which creak, should be entirely avoided. If it is necessarj' lo put coal on the fire, drop it on quietly in small paper sacks, or rolled in paper slightly dampened. Visitors should never be ad- mitted in a sick-room. The necessary attendants are usually a sufficient annoyance to a weak patient, and many a tombstone might truthfully and appropriately be inscribed: '"Talked to death by well-meaning friends." It is not generally the loudness of a noi.se that disturbs the sick, but the sound that produces 'cx})ectation of something to happen. Some can not bear any noise. Any thing that suddenly awakens is injurious. Never awaken a sleeping patient unless ordered to do so by the physician. In sickness the brain is ■weakened with the rest of the body, and sleep strengthens it. If rest is interrupted soon after it is begun, the brain is weakened so much the more, and the patient becomes irritable and wakeful. If sleep lasts longer, he falls asleep again more readily. Never speak within the hearing of the sick, in tones whii-h can not be fully understood. An occasional word, or murmur of conversation, or whisper, is intolerable, and occasions needless apprenhension. Few persons have any idea of the exquisite neatness necessary in a sick- room. What a well person might endure with impunity, may prove fatal to a weak patient. Especially the bed and bedding should be scrupulously clean. In most diseases the functions of the skin are disordered, and the clothing becomes saturated with foul prespiration, so that the patient alter- nates between a cold damp after the bed is made, and a warm damp before, both poison to his system. Sheets which are used should be dried often from this poisonous damp, either in the sun or by the fire, and the mattress and blanket next the sheets should also be carefully aired as often as pos- sible. In changing very sick patients (particularly women after confinement) the sheets and wearing-clothes should be well aired by hanging by the fire for two days. Move the patient close to one side of the bed,"turn the under siioet over close to the invalid, then smooth the mattress, removing any thing that may be on it. Make ready the clean sheet, by rolling one-half into a round roll, lay this close bj' the invalid, spread the other half smoothlv over the bed. Now assist the patient on the clean sheet, unroll and spread M. Cinnamon Tea. — To a half pint fresh, new milk add stick or ground cin- namon enough to flavor, and wiiite sugar to taste ; bring to boiling point, and take either warm or cold. Excellent for diarrhea in adults or children. A few drops or a teaspoon of brandy may be added, if the case demands. Sago-JeUij Pudding. — "Wash thoroughly one teacup of sago, cook it in three pints of water fifteen or twenty minutes, till perfectly clear, add a very little salt ; stir in half a jelly-glass of currant, grape or other jelly and two spoonfuls sugar. Mold and serve cold with cream and sugar ; or "eat warm. Poached Eggs. — This is a very delicate way of preparing eggs, and when served on slices of toast, gar- nished with sprigs of crisp pars- ley, they make a very pretty as well as ai)j)etizing dish. Poach them as directed in dept.of Eggs Arrowroot Custard. — One tablespoon of arrowroot, one Poached Ksg>-. pint of milk, one egg, two table- spoons sugar ; mix the arrowroot with a little of the cold milk, put the rest of milk on the fire, and boil, and stir in the arrowroot and egg and sugar, well beaten together ; scald and pour into cups to cool ; any flavoring the invalid prefers may be added. Broiled Chicken, Quail, Squirrel or Woodcock. — Any of these must be tender. Take the breast of the first two, or the thighs of the others ; place on hot coals or on a broiler, turning often to prevent burning. When done, remove the burned parts, if any, season slightly with butter, i)epper and salt, and serve at once. Tapioca Jelly. — One half pint tapioca, one quart water, juice and some of the grated rind of a lemon ; soak the tapioca for three or four hours in the water, sweeten it and boil for oi>e hour in a custard-kettle, or until quite clear, stirring it often. When almost done, stir in the lemon, and when sufliciently cooked pour into molds. Serve with sweetened cream. Panada. — Take two richest crackers, pour on boiling water, let stand a few minutes, beat up an egg, sweeten to taste, and stir all together ; grate in nutmeg and add brandy or wine to suit the invalid. Or, break in a pint bowl toasted bread and pour over boiling water, adding a small lump of but- ter, two tablespoons wine, brandy or whisky ; sweeten to taste and flavor with nutmeg or cinnamon. Clam Broth. — This is excellent for invalids, being the best food known for giving tone to the deranged stomach ; it nuiy even be given in small (juan- tities to sick children over six months old. Select small clams ; break the shells, and pou-r the clams with the juice into a small boiler, or stew-pan; add enough water to modify the salty taste, and boil for ten minutes. Strain and it is ready for use. Rice Jelly. — Mix one heaping tablespoon of rice-flour with cold water until it is a smooth paste, add a scant pint of boiling water, sweeten with loaf-sugar; boil until quite clear. If the jelly is intended for a patient with summer complaint, stir with astick of cinnamon ; if for one with fever, flavor with lemon juice, and mold. Kice-water is made in the same manner, by using twice the quantity of boiling water. Graham Gems for Invalids. — ^lix Graham flour with hai. milk and half water, and add a little salt, beat, making the l)atter thin enough to pour ; have the gem-pan very hot, grease it, fill as quickly as possible and return HINTS FOK THE SICK-ROOM. 1137 immediately to a hot oven ; bake about thirty minutes. Practice will teach just the proper consistency of the batter, and the best temperature of the uven. It will not be good unless well beaten. Raspberry Vinegar. — Pour over two quarts of raspberries in a stone jar, one quart of very best vinegar ; let stand twenty-four hours, strain, and pour liquor over fresh fruit, and let stand in the same way ; allow one pound sugar to a pint of juice ; put into a stone jar and set in pot of boiling water one hour; skim well, put into bottles, cork and seal tight. Diluted with water this is very nice for the sick. Toasted bread may be eaten with it. Blackberry Wine — To every gallon of bruised berries, add half a gadon of soft cold water ; let stand twenty-four hours, then strain. To every gallon juice, add three pounds sugar; fill a cask and let it remain without moving or shaking until it has fermented, which it will have done in six weeks. Put over the mouth of-the cask a thin piece of muslin. When fermentation has ceased, draw off the wine and bottle without shaking cask. Cork and seal. Strawberry Acid. — Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts of water, and pour it upon twelve pounds of strawberries in a porcelain kettle ; let it simmer forty-eight hours ; strain it, taking care not to bruise the fruit. To every pint of juice add one and one-half pounds of sugar and stir until dissolved, then leave it a few days. Bottle and cork tightly ; if a slight fer- mentation takes place leave the cork out a few days. Then cork, seal and keep bottles in a cool place. Royal Strawberry Acid. — Take three pounds ripe strawberries, two ounces citric acid, and one quart of water; dissolve the acid in the water and pour it over the berries ; let them stand in a cool place twenty-four hours, draw- off, and pour in three pounds more of berries, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Add to the liquor its own weight of sugar, boil three or four minutes each day for three days, then cork tightlj' and seal. Keep in a dry and cool place . Arrowroot Blanc-mange. — Make as directed in Creams and Custards, cooling in individual molds. In ''■•■^(^ serving, a dainty way is on a .,'k-N^-* tray with cream and sugar and a small vase of flowers, as il- lustrated. Any of the blanc- manges or jellies given in this department may be served thus and prove much more appetiz- ing to the patient. Oatmeal Cakes. — Take equal parts fine oatmeal and water ; mix and pour into a jian about one-third of an inch deep and bake half an hour, or until crisp and slightly brown ; or make half an inch thick and bake soft like a johnny-cake ; or if the oven is not hot enouo-h to bake, pour it into a frying-pan, cover it and bake it on the top of the stove dishing it when brown on the bottom. It is not good cold. If any be left' warm it up and it is almost as good as new. ' Oatmeal Pie-crust.— This is made exactly like the dough for crackers • it may be rolled a very little thinner. It bakes quickly, so that care must be taken not to scorch it in cooking the contents of the pie. It is not suited for an upper crust, but does admirably for pies that require but one crust. It is 1188 HINTS FOR THI': SICK-ROOM. just the thinj; for those who do not think shortened pie-crusts wholesome, and it is good enougli for any one. One can eat it with as much impunity as su much oatmeal mush and fruit sauce. Mutton Broth. — Put two pounds of mutton and two quarts cold water to l)oil, add one tablespoon rice washed carefully through several waters. Let it boil till the meat will leave the bone, and the rice is cooked to a liquid mass. Take from the lire, season with a little salt ; skin, if preferred. If for a patient with Hux leave on all the fat (the more fat the better.) This is also a nice way to make Chicken Broth. Take a chicken size of a quail and prepare as above. Uncooked Egg. — This is quite palatable, and very strengthening, and may be ])repared in a variety of ways. Break an egg into a goblet and beat thoroughly, add a teaspoon sugar, and after beating a moment add a tea-spoon or two of brandy or port wine; beat well and add as much I'ich milk, or part cream and milk, as there is of the mixture. Or, omit brandy and flavor with any kind of spice ; or, milk need not be added, or the egg and sugar may be beaten sepa- rately, wine or brandy added, stirring in lightly the well- whipjH'd whites at the last, and thus made it should fill a goblet to overflowing. Juice of a lemon in place of brandy gives Lemon Egg-nog. Oatmeal Grvel. — Put two heaping tablespoons oatmeal H^j^^^^^^ in one quart cold water, stir till it commences to boil, then cook one hour, stirring occasionally ; do not let it scorch ; season with salt, sugar, and any spice desired. For infants and very sick I)atients it must be strained, and not salted; or take two cups Irish or Scotch oatmeal, two quarts water and teaspoon salt. Let oatmeal soak overnight in half the water. In the morning strain through a coarse netting bag, pressing thi'ough all the farinaceous matter that will go. Add the rest of the water with the salt, and boil down until it begins to thicken perceptibly. Let it cool enough to become almost a jelly, and eat with powdered sugar and cream. Cracked Wheat Pudding. — To one quart new or unskimmed milk add one- third cup cracked wheat, same of sugar (or a little more if preferred), a little salt and small luece of stick cinnamon. Place in moderate oven and bake two hours or iDiiger. When about half done stir in the crust already formed, and it will form another sutficiently brown. When done the wheat will be very soft, and the pudding of a creamv consistency. It can be eaten hot or cold, and is nice for invalids. A handful of raisins added is considered an improvement by some. Fruit Farina. — Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of farina into one quart of boiling milk, using a sauce-pan set into a kettle of boiling water, in order to ])revent burning; flavor and sweeten to taste, and boil for half an hour, stir- ring occasionally ; then add one i>int of any ripe berries, or sliced apples, and boil until the fruit is cooked, about twenty minutes : the pudding may be boiled in a mold or a cloth after the fruit is added. Serve with powdered sugar. Broiled Beefsteak. — Many times a small piece of "tenderloin" or "porter- house" is more wholesome, for an invalid, than broths and teas; and with this may Ix- served a potato, roasted in the ashes, dressed with sweet cream (or a little butter) and salt, or nicely co(')ked tomatoes. Have the steak from half an inch to an inch thick, broil carefully two or three minutes over hot HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. HoU coals, turning often with a knife and fork, so as not to pierce it. When done, put on a small dish, season slightly with salt and pepper, and a small bit of butter, garnisli with tlie potato, and serve hot. Stewed Oysters.- Keinove all bits of shell from a half dozen fresh, select oysters, place in a colander, pour over a teacup of water, drain, place liquor drained oft' in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan, let come to boiling point, skim well ; pour off into another heated dish, all except the last spoonful which will contain sediment and bits of shell which may have been overlooked, wipe out sauce-pan, return liquor, add oysters, let come to the boiling point, add a smaU lump of good butter, a teaspoon of cracker-dust, a very little cayenne pepper and salt, and a half teacup fresh, sweet cream. Oatmeal Relish. — Boil one gill oatmeal in three pints boiling water till water is reduced one-third, then strain and cool the gruel, let settle and pour the liquid part carefully away from the sediment. Use it hot or cold as pre- ferred with sugar and any fruit juice. Two tablespoons of raisins may be added to gruel while boiling. The effect of raisins is gently laxative but if used in excess they sometimes cause indigestion and flatulence. To Make Kumyss. — Take three quarts of good, rich, sweet milk ; one quart of hot water, in which dissolve one-half pint sugar; add the hot water to the milk ; when the mixture is luke warm add three tablespoons of brew- er's yeast; set in a moderately warm place, stir often, and, when it begins to sparkle (which will be in aljout one and a half hours), put it into strong bottles and cork tight ; put in a cool place and in eight hours it will be ready for nse. Procure a champagne tap (cost $1), and draw the best kumyss "ever made. Prepared Flour for Summer Complaint. — Take a double handful of flour, tie up tightly in cloth and put in a kettle of boiling water, boil from three to six hours, take out, remove the cloth, and you will have a hard, round ball. Keep in a dry, cool place, and when wanted for use, prepare by plac- ing some sweet milk (new alwaws preferred) to boil, and grating into the milk from the ball enough to make it as thick as you desire, stirring it just before removing from the stove with a stick of cinnamon ; this gives it ii pleasant flavor ; put a little salt into the milk. Very good for children hav- ing the summer complaint. ililk Porridge. — Place on stove in skillet one pint new sweet milk and a very little pinch of salt; when it boils liave ready sifted flour, and sprinkle with one hand into the boiling miJk, stirring all the while with a spoon. Keep adding flour until it is about the consistency of thick molasses ; eat warm with a little butter and sugar. This is excellent for children suffering with summer complaint. Or, mix the flour wilh a little cold milk until a smooth paste, and then stir into the boiled milk. Or break an egg into the dry flour and rub it with the hands until it is all in fine crumbs (size of a grain of wheat), then stir this mixture into the boiling milk. Bran Biscuit — Take cup bran (as prepared by Davis & Taylor, 24 Canal Street, Boston), five cups sifted flour; scald the bran at tea-time with half pint boiling water; when cool, pour it into the middle of the flour, add one- half cup good yeast (or part of a yeast-cake, soaked till light), one teaspoon salt, and two tablespoons sugar; wet with new milk into soft dough, much thicker than blotter. Let it stand, covered closely, in a warm place to rise. In the morning, spoon into hot gem or patty-pans, and bake in a quick oven to a brown crust. Part of the dough may be baked in a small loaf to be eaten warm. (It can be made with water by using a little butter, but it is not so good.)any remaining may be split for dinner or toasted for tea. 1140 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. Oat-mcal Wafers. — Use equal parts water and oat-meal, make as thin as vou can shake it out on the bottom of pan, so that when done it will not be thicker than a knife-blade anywhere, and in most places you can see day- light through it. Bake very slowly until quite dry, watching that it may not scorch. In taking out it will probably break into many fragments, but they will be delicious ones — not shapely for the table, but so temptingly savored that any delicate person who can eat at all will find them satisfying, nour- ishing, and easily digested — far better than the standard sick dish called gruel. ' As for the well folks, put your wafers out of the way if you expect to find any of them for the invalid's'next meal. Blackberry Cordial. — Put a half bushel of blackberries in a preserving- kettle and cook until scalded through well ; strain and press out all the juice ; put juice in kettle with the following spices well broken up and put into a bag; one-quarter pound allspice, two ounces cinnamon-bark two ounces cloves, and two nutmegs; add loaf-sugar, about one pound to every quart of juice or more if preferred, and cook slowly ten or fifteen minutes, remove from the fire, let cool a little, and add good" pure brandy in the proportion of one pint to every three pints of juice. A smaller quantity may be made, using the same proportions. This is an excellent remedy for diarrhoea and other diseases of the bowels. Good Toast. — Toast slices of bread, scrape off any blackened, charred portion ; lay on a soup plate, pour on cold milk enough to wet through, and leave half an inch or so in depth of milk in the plate. Good milk, with a little extra cream in it, is all the better, and a very trifle of salt improves it. Put over the toast thus prepared, an inverted large earthen bowl, or tin basin, large enough to cover it and set down upon the plate all round. Put this in a warm, not very hot, stove oven, two, three, or more hours in advance. The milk will cook and evaporate and its substance be condensed in the toast while the cover will keep the toast moist. It is then very good without butter, though a little may be used if desired. Beef Broth. — Cut in small pieces one pound of good lean beef, put on in two quarts of cold water and boil slowly, keeping it well covered, one and one-half hours ; then add half a teacup tapioca, which has been soaked three-quarters of an hour in water enough to cover, and boil half an hour longer. Some add, with the taj)ioca, a small bit of parsley, and a slice or two of onion. Strain before serving, seasoning slightly with pepper and salt. It is more strengthing to add, just before serving, a soft poached egg. Rice mav be used instead of tapioca, straining the broth, and adding one or two tablespoons rice (soaked for a short time), and then boiling half an hour. Meat for Invalidi. — The following method of rendering raw meat pal- atable to invalids is given by good authority. To 8.7 ounces of raw meat, from the loin, add 2.6 ounces shelled sweet almonds, .17 ounces shelled bitter almonds, and 2.8 ounces white sugar — these to be beaten together in a marble mortar to a uniform pulp, and the fibres separated by a strainer. The pulp, which has a rosy hue, and a very agreeable taste, does not remind one of meat, and may be kept fresh for a considerable time, even in summer, in a dry, cool place. Yolk of egg may be added to it. From this pulp, or directly from the above substance, an emulsion may be prepared which will be rendered much more nutritious by adding milk. Articles for the Sick-Room. — A rubber bag, holding two quarts, to be one- half or three-quarters filled with hot water, and placed about the patient where needed— under head in neuralgia, around the side in liver conge.'^tion, etc. ; or can be filled with very cold water in cases needing such aj)plications HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1141 — is very flexible and agreeable, and can be used where a soap-stone or bot- tle would hurt. A pair of very long, loose stockings, knit of Saxony wool, or any soft yarn, without heels, to draw on towards morning in fever cases, or to keep patient warm when she is up ; they might come half way between the knee and thigh. Every housekeeper should have a pair to be used in cases of sickness. Oatmeal Crackers. — Wet one pint of fine oatmeal with one gill water* work it a few minutes with a spoon, until you can make it up into a mass '; place on a board well covered with dry oatmeal ; make as compact as you can, and roll out carefully to one-sixth of an inch thick, and cut into squares with a knife. Bake in a very slow oven, or merely scald at first; and then let them stand in the oven until they dry out. These are difficult to make up at first, but you soon learn to handle the dough and to watch oven so that they will not scorch. These are excellent for all the purposes of crackers, and if kept dry, or if packed in oatmeal, they will last good for months. This is one form of the Scotch 'bannock." A rich addition is two heaping spoons of ground dessicated cocoanut. Old-time Food for Convalescents. — Roast good potatoes in hot ashes and coals ; when done, put in a coarse cloth and squeeze with the hand, and take out the inside on a plate. Put a slice of good pickled pork on a stick three or four feet long, hold before a wood fire until it cooks slightly, then dip into a pan of water and let it drip on the potato to season it ; repeat until the meat is nicely cooked on one side, then turn the other, dip in water, etc. When done place on plate beside the potato, serve with a slice of toast dressed with hot water and a little vinegar and salt, or use sweet cream in- stead of vinegar. A cup of sage tea, made by pouring boiling water on a few leaves of sage and allow it to stand a few minutes, served with cream and sugar, is very nice ; or crust coflTee, or any herb tea is good. Food pre- pared in this way obviates the use of butter. Beef Tea.— Cut pound best lean steak in small pieces, place in glass fruit jar (a perfect one), cover tightly and set in a pot of cold water ; heat gradu- ally to boil, and continue this steadily three or four hours, until the meat is like white rags and the juice thoroughly extracted ; season with very little salt, and strain through a wire strainer. Serve either warm or cold. To prevent jar toppling over, tie a string around the top part, and hang over a stick laid across the top of pot. When done, set kettle off" stove and let cool before removing the jar, and in this way prevent breakage. Or, when beef- tea is wanted for immediate use, place in a common pint bowl (yellow ware) add very little water, cover with saucer, and place in a moderate oven ; if in danger of burning add a little more water. To make beef-tea more palatable for some patients, freeze it. Cornmeal Gruel. — Add three pints boiling water, two tablospoons corn- meal, stirred up with a little cold water ; add a pinch of salt and cook twenty minutes. For very sick persons, let it settle, pour off the top, and give with- out other seasoning. For convalescents, toast a piece of bread nicely, and put in the gruel with one or two tablespoons sweet cream, a little sugar and ginger, or nutmeg and cinnamon. When a laxative diet is allowed this is very nourishjjig. Or, take a pint of meal, pour over it a quart or more of cold water, stir up, let settle a moment, and pour off. the water; repeat this three times, then put the washed meal into three quarts of cold water, and place where it will boil ; cook three hours, and when done add a pinch of salt. This is a very delicate way of cooking, and it may be eaten with or without other seasoning. 1142 HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. Boiled Flour or Flour Ball. — Take one quart good flour; tie in a pud- ding bag so tightly as to make a solid mass ; put into a pot of boiling water early in the morning, and let boil until bedtime; takeout and let dry. In the morning, peel ofl'and throw away the thin rind of dough, and with a nutmeg-grater, grate down the hard dry mass into a powder. Of this from one to three teasjxjons may he used, by first rubbing it into a ]»aste with a little milk, then adding it to al^cjut a pint of milk, and, linally, by bringing the whole to just the boiling-point. Give through a nursing-bottle. For children who are costive use branmeal or unbolted flour instead of white flour, preparing as above directed. Rice Water. — AVash four tablespoons of rice ; put it into two quarts of water, which boil down to one quart, and tlien add sugar and a little nut- meg. This makes a pleasant drink. A pint or half a pint of milk added to the rice water, before it is taken from the fire, gives a nourishing food suit- able for cases of diarrhea. Sago, tapioca, barley, or cracked corn can be prepared in the same manner. Beef Tea. — Take a pound of juicy lean be-3f and mince it. Put it with its juice into an earthen vessel containing a pint of tepid water, and let the whole stand for one hour. Slowly heat to boiling point, and let it boil for three minutes. Strain liquid through a colander, and stir in a little salt. If preferred, a little pepper or allspice may be added. Mutton Tea may be prepared in the same way. It makes an agreeable change when the patient has become tired of beef tea. JRaw Beef for Children. — Take half a pound of juicy beef, free from any fat; mince it very finely; then rub it into a smooth pulp either in a mortar or with an ordinary potato-masher, and press it through a fine sieve. Spread a little out upon a plate and sprinkle over it some salt, or some sugar if the child prefers it. Give it alone or spread u])on al)uttered slice of stale bread. It makes an excellent food for children with dysentery. Articles Easy of Digestion. — The following articles are readily digested by a healthy stomach, and can be digested with comparative ease by most dyspeptics : ANIMAL FOODS. Raw white of egg, beaten to a froth ; beef tea, free from fat ; raw whole egg, beaten ; milk fresh and warm ; fresh eggs, soft ])oileil ; mutton, broiled ; venison steak, broiled ; chicken, especially the white parts; rabbit; fresh trout, and most fresh fish which are not oily. VEGETABLE FOODS. Stale bread ; graham rolls, without yeast or soda ; rice, well boiled or steamed; tapioca; corn-starch ; oatmeal porridge, eaten with dry toast, Gra- ham mush or crushed wheat ; cauliflower ; asparagus, if verv tender; French beans; baked sweet or subacid apples; strawberries and whortleberries; grapes without skins or seeds ; oranges or bananas. Articles not Easy of Digestion . — The following list includes the common articles of food which require a considerable degree of vigor on the part of the digestive organs, and must be avoided by all bad dyspeptics: ANIMAL FOODS. Animal sou])s of all sorts ; beef; lamb; , turkey, duck, pigeon; codfish; raw ovsters; butter; all Sorts of roast meats. HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 1143 VEGETABLE FOODS. Potatoes ; turnips ; cabbage ; tomatoes ; peas ; beans ; raisins, and most dried fruit ; apples ; peaches ; peaches ; plums ; cherries ; pineapples ; beets ; carrots ; spinach ; parsnips ; vegetable soups ; corn-meal preparations ; salads of all sorts ; currants ; gooseberries ; raspberries ; rhubarb ; jelly. Indigestible Articles.— The following articles, while they maybe digested by a vigorous stomach, impair the digestive powers and induce indigestion and to the dyspeptic are more of the character of poison than of foods : ANIMAL FOODS. Pork; veal; goose; liver; kidney; heart; sausage; hard-boiled eggs; scrambled eggs ; cheese ; hashed and stewed meats ; melted butter, and all animal fats; mackerel, and all oilv fish ; dried and smoked fish ; sardines, and other fish preserved in oil; lobster; crabs; etc.; cooked oysters and clams ; fried meats of all sorts. VEGBTABLE FOODS. "Warm bread, especially taken with butter ; mufiins; buttered toast ; pies, cakes, and all sorts of pastry ; pancakes ; fried bread and vegetables ; nuts of all kinds ; onions ; mushrooms ; pickles ; tea ; cofi'ee ; cocoa ; chocolate ; mus- tard ; pepper ; spices and other condiments ; sugar ; preserves, and all sacch- arine foods. 1144 MEDICAL. IVEEDICAL. "When people fall sick they seem to lose what little common sense they possessed when well. Men and women who are moderately wise and reason- able in other matters, cherish the most absurd superstitions, and follow the advice of the most transparent quacks when it comes to disease and medi- cine. A little reflection will convince many reasonable persons that no single medicine will cure all diseases, indeed no medicine will cure the same dis- ease in difTerent persons, and in different stages. Any candid physician will admit that the use of medicines by the most skillful and experienced prac- titioner, is, to a great extent, an experiment. What is "one man's meat is another man's poison," and even the best physician needs to know the con- stitution of the patient, and to study the symptoms of disease before he can prescribe safely, to say nothing of curing the disease. And yet there are in- telligent men and women who buy patent nostrums, and pour them down their throats, knowing nothing of the disease, or of the probable effect of the alleged remedy. For instance, a child has a cough and a "cough remedy" is purchased and dealt out. Now, there are many kinds of coughs. The cough may be "dry," or it may be "loose" ; the symptoms may differ in va- rious ways, and yet the "cough remedy" given for a "dry" cough may be intended for a "loose" one, and so all the symptoms may be aggravated, perhaps with a fatal result. The physician's advice and experience is chief- ly valuable to tell us what the disease is and the best possible treatment for it. It is dangerous in the extreme to administer any powerful remedv, or any medicine the nature and effect of which are not known, without the advice of some one who knows the disease and its probable eff"ect. The household chest should contain only simple remedies, the eff'ect of which, at worst, can not be very injurious ; anil in all dangerous or violent diseases a physician should be "promptly called. For Varicose Veins. — Wear a silk elastic stocking. For Colds, drink pennyroyal tea. Glycerine is excellent to ru]> on chafes, burns, chap])ed liands or sun scalds. Blistered Feet.— To cure blistered feet from long walking, rub the feet, at going to bed, with spirits mixed with tallow. MEDICAL. 1145 Liniment. — Three ounces each of tincture of opium, camphorated oil, and soap liniment. For Jaundice — The volk of an egg, raw or slightly cooked, is excellent food in jaundice. Chapped Hands and Lips. — Four parts glycerine to one part simple tinct- ure of benzoin. The latter is very healing. For Quinsij, gargle with water as hot as can be V)orne. This gives great relief, even in severe cases. Liniment. — The common jVlay-weed blossonis put in alcohol are much superior to arnica for the same use. For Soreness and Pains. — Bathe with not alcohol ; ana salt is often added. The use of alcohol sponge-baths after confinement is almost a necessity. To Check Vomiting. — Give a teaspoon of whole black mustard seed. A tablespoon may be given in severe cases. For Sick Headache. — Whenever the symptoms are felt coming on, drink a teacup of thoroughwort or boneset-tea. Trichina'. — Don't eat raw hog meat of any sort. It may contain trichinae, and if it does, the undertaker may as well be sent for. Lime in the Eye. — When lime, soda, potash, or ammonia, gets in the eye, wash out with water containing a little vinegar. For Stiff Joints. — Oil made by trying up common angle worms, is excel- lent to apply to sinews drawn up by sprains or disease. Pleurisy. — Oiled silk placed over the chest of those suffering from pneu- monia or pleurisy, will give great relief and hasten recovery. For Rheumatism. — To one pint alcohol, add one tablespoon pulverized potash, and a lump of gum-camphor the size of a walnut. Use as a liniment. Children's Beds. — No two children should sleep in the same bed. They will have better health and thrive better to sleep by themsslves. Chronic^ Diarrhcea is cured by drinking orange-peel tea; sweeten with loaf-sugar, and use as a common drink for twenty-four to thirty-six hours. For Burns. — Lime-water, olive-oil, and glycerine, equal parts; applied on lint, or grated raw potatoes used as a poultice. A Simple Remedy for Catarrh. — Place alum on the stove and let it melt and burn until it becomes a dry powder. Then use it as snuff. To Stop Bleedim/. — Apply wet tea-leaves, or scrapings of sole-leather to a fresh cut and it will stop the bleeding, or apph' a paste of flour and vinegai-. Beef Tea. — Boil the beef for a few minutes, and squeeze the juice from it with a lemon-squeezer, salt and use hot, cold or frozen. To Stop Bleeding at the Nose. — Bathe the feet in very hot water, drink- ing at the same time a pint of cayenne peper tea, or hold both arms above the head. For Dressing Cuts, Wounds or Sores. — Surgeon's solution of carbolic acid and pure glycerine mixed in equal parts, andapplied on soft lint or linen cloth. To Harden Nipples. — Bathe with a preparation of one-half ounce liquid tannin and two ounces glycerine, for three or four months before confinement, once or twice a day. 1146 >fKnicAL. For Sore XippJes. — Bathe in Pond's Extract. The nipple need not be washed off before nursing. Or to the well-beaten white of an egg add a tew drops of tannin, mixed thoroughly, and bathe. Make fresh every day or two. Change of Climate. — A change of climate is nearly always beneficial to liealth for a time, and sometimes effects a complete cure in disease. It is still more likely to do good if a change of habits and diet goes with it. Dirt in the E)/e. — To remove spoear dear. Pour the mixture into a pail of cold water, and when it gathers, take it out, roll on boards and cut it off. Care must be taken not to burn it. Moisten tlie hands in brandy while working. To Promote or Restore Mevfitruation. — Puta small tea-cup of logwood chips into a i>int of soft water, simmer for fifteen minutes, then add one half pint of whiskey, Dose, one tablespoon half an hour before each meal, and just before going to bed. Another excellent prescription for the s:ime purpose is made as follows : Two drams of prepared citrate of iron and (juinine, one pint cherry wine, one-half ounce chamomile flowers. Itch Ointment. — Two tablespoons lard, one of black pepper, one of ground mustard ; boil all together, and when taken off and nearly cold add one table- spoon sulphur. Anoint with this three evenings successively just before go- ing to bed. Do not change bed-clothes or wearing clothes during the time. Afler this, wash with castile soap suds, and change all the clothing that has been worn or touched. Poison bij /(•(/.— An infallible remedy for poisoning by ivy, poison oak, and other poison vines and plants, is goo the i^arts in several folds of fiannel which has been wrung out of hot water, and cover it wilh a dry bandage, and rest it for some days, or even weeks. Entire rest at first, and'moderate rest afterward, are absolutely necessary after a sprain. If it is in the ankle, the foot should be raised as high as niay be comfortable ; if in the wrist, it sliould be carried in a sling. Or, place in hot \vater three minutes then in cold three minutes, and so alternate four or five times, then bind up in a hot compress. If the sprain is in knee or where it cannot be immersed, wrap in hot cloths for three minutes then in cold, etc. For Burns or Bruises. — Appiv peach tree leaves, smooth side next to the skin and bind them on ; or wet cloth and sprinkle it with carbonate of soda (common cooking soda) and bind it on the burn. It quickly stops the pain, and is a harmless and thorough remedy. If no cloth is at hand, wet the part burned and sprinlcle dry soda on it. For burns where there is danger of mor- 1152 MEDICAL. tification, or even if it has already begun bind on strips of cloth dipped in clean tar. Cure for Locfc-Jair, smd to be positive. — Let any one who has an attack of lock-jaw take a small (jnantity of .spirits of turpentine, warm it, and pour it on the wounrane ati'ecti'd in tliis dis- ease. Bed-roomsought to be well aired, and warmed if possible, l)y an open fire, in damp, chilly weather. Clover Tea. — Gather the blossoms of red clover, when beginning to bloom, and dry for use, putting away in tight paper sacks. A tea made from these blossoms is excellent for "hives," cancer, or any disease of a scrofulous na- ture. The essence of clover is sometimes used instead of the tea, and is kept MEDICAL. 1153 at drug stores. It is also good for sickness at the stomach. The tea may be made of the fresh blossoms also. For cancer the tea is given in large quan- tities, some patients drinking a gallon a day every day for a year before feel- ing certain of cure. This is largely prescribed by physicians. Taper Lights. — The best light for a sick room is furnished by the tapers which come in boxes (bought at any drug store) in a vase or a tumbler of lard-oil. The taper is simply a small wick set in a tiny piece of wood. In the box of tapers is a float — a three-cornered frame of tin with a bit of cork on each corner. This is placed on the surface of the oil, and the taper set on it, the bottom of the wood resting in the oil. It may then be lighted, and produces an agreeable light, without smoke or smell, and sufficient for the purposes of the sick-room or nursery, and yet not so glaring as to be disa- greeable. All persons accustomed to light in the sleeping-room will find this much better than a lamp turned low. The tumbler may be half full of water with oil on top. Healing Salve for Wounds. — Pint olive-oil, half ounce common resin, half ounce beeswax ; melt well together, and bring all to boiling heat ; add grad- ually of pulverized red lead — three-eighths of a pound (for summer use a trifle more lead) ; in a short time after it is taken up by the oil, and the mixture be- comes brown or a shining black, remove from the fire, and when nearly cold add two scruples pulverized camphor. It sliould remain on the fire until it attains a proper consistency for spreading, which may be known by dipping a splint or knife in the mixture from time to time, and allowing it to cool. When used spread thinly on a piece of tissue paper or old, fine linen. Ex- cellent for frost sores or any kind that are hard to heal. How to Distinguish Raahes. — ]\Ieasles ajipear as a number of dull red spots, in many places running into each other, and is usually first seen about the face, and on the forehead, near the roots of the hair, and is often preced- ed by running of the eyes and nose, and all the signs of severe cold. Scarlet fever ai>pears first about the neck and chest, but not unfrequently at the bend of the elbow or under the knee, and is usually preceeded by sore throat. It can be distinguished from roseola — a mild disease, which is sometimes mis- taken for it — by the bright red color of the skin, which appears not unlike a boiled lobster. In chicken-pox the symptoms are attended by fever, the spots are small, separate pimples, and come generally over the whole body. Hot Water as Medicine. — Consumptives and dys2:)eptics find great relief in drinking, or rather slowly sipping, hot water an hour before eating. It should be as hot as can be taken. Sips of hot water are also good where the stomach is weak, as in convalescence after illness. In a severe case of dys- pepsia, the patient began by taking six teaspoons of hot water three times a day, and has gradually increased the amount with the greatest benefit. Hot water is also excellent in cases of sick f^tomach, and may be taken when no nourishment of any kind can be retained in the stomach. In giving to a child, and it is very beneficial to them, give with a spoon and have a cup of cold water in Avhich to dip spoon before taking up the hot water, as by con- stant dipping in hot water the metal becomes too hot for the little ones and they will not take the water hot enough fearing the spoon. Cubeb Berries for Catarrh. — A new remedy for catarrh is crushed cubeb berries smoked in a pipe, emitting the smoke through the nose ; after a few trials this will be easy to do. If the nose is stopped up so that it is almost impossible to breathe, one pipeful will make the head as clear as a bell. For sore throat, asthma, and bronchitis, swallowing the smoke effects immedi- ate relief . It is the best remedy in the world for offensive breath, and will make the most foul breath pure and sweet. Sufferers from that horrid dis- 1154 MEDfCAt. ease, ulcerated catarrh, will find this remedy uneqiialed, and a month's use will cure the n)ost obstinate case. A single trial will convince anyone. Eat- inir the uncrnshed berries is also good for sore throat and all bronchial coin- l)laints. After smoking, do not expose yourself to cold air for at least fifteen minutes. To Cure a Cold. — A bad cold should be "nipped in the bud." To do this no medicine is required. A ])ersoii who finds he has taken cold should bun- dle u]) unusually warm in bed, with a bottle of hot water at his feet. The ol)jt'ct is to create a mild perspiration the entire night. Before dressing in the morning take a sponge bath in cold water and apply friction to the skin imtil it is in a glow. The cold, probaldy will then liave disappeared, but if not follow the same course another night. But this remedy must be applieil prom])tly after noting the first indications. — such as sneezing or running at the nose"; if left a day or two the cold will be sure to run its course. Often toasting the feet the whole evening by the fire Avill answer the purpose. Fur Diarrhea. — Stir lightly into teacujiful cold water the white of one egg not beaten. This forms a c* ating on the stomach, and is also nourishing, and is good in any disease where patient can not eat. Another delicate prepara- tion for a weak stomach is slippery-elm gruel : !Mix fine slippery-ehn flour with cold water, then stir into boiling water till thickness of gruel. Charcoal crackers are of great value in assisting digestion. In diarrhea the most im- portant item is absolute quiet on a lied. Bits of ice may be eaten and swal- lowed at will, but drink litttle li(]uid of any kind. If com]>elled to be on the feet, bind a stnuig piece of woolen flannel tightly around tlie a])domen, hav- ing it doulile in front. For diet, use rice i)arched like i-otrce, boiled and eat- en with a little salt and butter. Some advise making a tea of it, and also using boiled milk and nuitton broth, with crisi)ed white crackers, for chil- dren. Or, use ice-cold enemas after each movement of the bowels — a tea- spoon for a babe, increasing in that i)roportion till, for an adult, a l)ulbful is given. This is good in cases of dysentery, etc. For Sore Throat — Rub on the outside, and wet clotli in Pond's Extract, and gargle with it also, taking from one to ten drops four times a day. An- other excellent remedy is camphor dikited with water till it can be used as a gargle. Another remedy is to put on a strip of flannel thin slices of fat pork, and sprinkle very thick with black pepper and place around the throat, or chop fat pork and onions together, about half and half, and put in sack and )*wt on ; or bathe throat ill coal oil, also, in diphtheria, some have used with benefit bits of ice kept constantly in tlie mouth for as long as seven hours ; or gargle with lemon juice, occasionally swnllowing some. Or a bran mash is excellent — that is, lu-an with boiling water poured over it, and put on when just warm enough to feel agreeable. In putting it on, spread th(> ply bound straight around the throat. The sufferer from sore throat should eat nothing wliich could scratch it, like drj' toast. Soft boiled eggs, soft toast, and diet of that kind should be in- dulged in, and the drinks should be merely warm — not too hot or cold. Sleeplessness. — The loss of power to cast ofl' the burden of the day, and find rest at niglit, is one of the greatest of jx-rsonal alflictions; yet, it is safe to say that wakefulness at night is an acquired habit, which can be overcome, like other bad habits, if not too long indulged. Let any adult person awake, say at midnight, and "get to thinking" for an hour or two ; do this the fol- lowing three or four nights ; he will find that it will then require a powerful etTort of the will to resist doing the same Miing for several nights thereafter. MEDICAL. 1155 A person should never give waj- to the dangerous habit of lying awake at nights ; for that is exactly what it is, a dangerous habit, and nothing else. Golden Ointment. — One pound lard, eight ounces beeswax, one ounce cam- phor gum in five ounces alcoliol, one ounce origanum, one ounce laudanum ; let all dissolve while melting the lard and beeswax, tiien stir together until cold, or the cami)lior will go oft in a steam. Do not mix too hot. This will cure pain in the side by applying as a plaster. For enlarged neck or goitre, dilute with one-fourth iodine. For salt-rheum, apply externally, and take cathartics to cleanse the blood. For scald-head, rub together one ounce golden ointment and three drachms of red precipitate ; remove the hair and ruV) with this twice a day, each day washing with castile soap suds. For catarrh, rub the ointment up in the nose profusely, and let it remain all night. In the morning draw cold water up the nose and throw it back two or three times to clean the tubernated bones. Also bathe the face and ears with cold water. Chronic Inflammation of the Stomach. — This is known by a pain in the stomach, increased by the presence of food, by belching up gas, ])y vomiting, fickle appetite, seasons of thirst, tongue white in the center and red at tip, or sometimes red and smooth — is a disease which soon ends in ulceration of stomach, and death. Counter-irritants over the stomach, suchas mustard draughts, followed by hot fomentations of hops ; frequent warm or cold baths, according to patient's constitution ; a tepid compress worn over the stomach at night ; and the most careful diet, consisting mostly of gum water, rice water, slip])ery-elm water and gruel, arrowroot gruel, toast without butter, gluten mush, etc., and in two or three weeks the disease will yield under this persistent starving and cooling system. Brir/ht's Disease. — Dr. Arthur Scott Dorkin extols a skim-milk diet in this disease. "The first appreciable action," he says, '"of skim-milk taken to the extent of six or seven pints daily, is that of a most energetic diuretic, a profuse flow of urine being rapidly produced. The effect of this in Bright's disease, is to to flush the uriniferous tubules, and to dislodge and wash out the concrete casts of diseased epithelial cells by which the ■ rrc blocked up and distented. Tlie emptying of the tubules relieves their pressure on the surrounding secondary capillaries, the blood begins to flow more freely through them, the distension of the primary malpighian ca- pillaries is relieved; less and less albumert escapes through their v>alls, until the renal circulation is gradually restored, when it finaly disappears from the urine. While this beneficial change is progressing, healthy epi- thelium is developed in the tubules, and the urinary excrement is withdrawn from the blood. In short, a healthy nutrition becomes re-established in the kidneys through the agency of milk, which above all other substances, seems to exercise a controlling influence over this process. For a Cough.— 'dimmer together a handful each of lioarhound and mul- lein leaves in a quart of soft water till all the strength is extracted (add more water if neccessary) ; then strain and add to it one quart of Orleans molasses. • Dose, one tablesi)oonful three times a day. Or for hoarseness wet a piece of cotton. batting on the inside, wrap it around a lemon, and cover with ashes and coals to roast as you would roast a potato ; let it roast from fifteen to twenty minutes; take out, clip off" one end, squeeze out the juice, and strain it through a thin cloth to remove any seeds or particles of pulp. There will be from four to five teaspoonsfuls of juice, which mix witli an equal quantity of strained honey (to strain warm ants the l)reath of a whuopinfr-congh patient then he will take it. SuMUi of the renieiUes are. to jrive ilrinks of water as hut as they i-an he taken, in the eveninjj; and with lirst symptoms of a conghinjLT spt-ll — this makes the couirh easier ; another is, tu take scant tea-cnp whole Hax-seed, wash it tiiorou^'hly, add one Icmun sliceii and ([uart of water, simmer ^'cntly two hours, add two tabh'sj)uons of honey, then strain when hot. It should be like thick molasses; if too thick, add water. (_Tive one taijlespoonful four times a day, and one after each severe lit of ct)Ughing. (This is also good for an ordinary cold and cough.) The system of the patient needs to be built up, and for that purpose gi.ve two oil-baths a week; alsu guod, nourishing food, such as Ciraham or oatmeal jnush, coarse bread, milk. etc. ; and keep child out doors as much as possible, using great care no cold is taken. Some, when the breathing is verv bad, put a hot mustard and oatmeal poultice on the chest. In cities, a daily visit to the gas works has been saiil to abate the violence of the disease. A new renu'ily is to fumigate patient with burning sul]ihur, then remove him and more thoroughly fumigate the room. Kedress patit'ut in clean, well-aired clothes and return to fuuugated room. Do this twice a wt'ck it necessary. For CoriKlijxition. — The same remedies will not effect all persons. One or two tigs eaten fasting is suthcient for some, and they are especially good in the cases of chiMren, as there is no trouble in getting them to take tliem. A spoon of whcaten bran in a glass of water is a simpU' remedy and ipiite efl'ec- tive. One or two tumblers of hot water will mo\'e almost every one, but is lUlhcult to take. In chronic cases a faithful manapulation and miiving of bowels and limbs with gentle rotary movement with the open i)alm, and giv- ing all natural motions to the parts, with jiroper diet, will almost invariably secure the desired result. It has been known to cure a case of life-long habit, where inherited, too, and although it involves patience and perseverence, is is certainly belter than to sutler the ills that result from so many patent medicines and quack nostrums. ".\n ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," And regiihtritii of hahil in t\u» matter is the great thing to be im- pressed on ]H'opie generally. Or, three tea-cups each of coarse, clean, wheat l)ran and sifted flour, three teaspoons baking powder, seven teaspoons good butter and ont> of salt. Mix with cold sweet milk; roll thinl of an inch thick, cut with a biscuit cutter and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven; or, i>our hot water on tablespoon flax seed, pour off and at once add three or four tablespoons of cold water, and drink. This is perfectly harmless and may betaken once, twice, or thrice a day if ni'cessary ; or. a teaspoon black mustard-seed taken every morning; or a glass of cold water taken at night and tirst thinle remedy. Or take common rock-salt, such as is used in salting down beef or pork, "and mix with spirits of turpentine in equal parts, and as it gets drj- put on more, and in twenty-four hle treatment, ?)7t? the disease is too subtle and dauyerous to be trilled vith, and a physician should be summoned. One of the best remedies for domestic use in tlie early stages of the disease, is, probably, chlorate of potash, put into a tumbler of water until no more will dissolve, and used as a gargle. If swallowed it is harmless. It is cheap — live to ten cents worth being sutiicient for almost any case, and it may be kept in the house for emergencies. It is also an excellent remedy, used as a- bove described, for ordinary sore throat. In the case of children too young to use the gargle, make a swab on tlie end of a tirm round stick, by binding on a small piece of linen or cotton cloth ; use only once and burn it, i. e. the rag. Take the handle of a teaspoon and press the tongue down so as to see plainly the condition of the throat ; swab yiickly and draw out, Do not worry the cliiUl by i)oking the stick down its throat a half dozen times, make a sure thing the first time, for if you touch the affected parts, well ; better do it again in two hours. Dip swab in a reparation (which may also be used as a gargle) of alcohol, diluted with water, but as strong as the patient cayi bear. The alcohol acts (inickly upon the poison of the disease, and is a remedy easily obtained and kept at hand. When attacked with dijihtheria, the pa- tient should be kept in l)estitute the white of an egg; beat till smooth, mix with half a tumbler of water, and give a tablespoon at a time. This is very nourishing, and is often taken more readily than beef-tea. Jt is particularly important to nourish the patient uith proper supplies of food in the early stages of the di9ease, as there is danger that ttie supply of vitalized blood will not be sufficient to meet the demand made by the disease. I'lenty of milk is highly nutritious. The homeopathic treatment is to begin at once with aconite and bella- donna, alternately every hour. If after four hours there is no improvement. MEDICAL, 1161 and the characteristic prostration, and the patches on the tonsils are increas- ing, stop the aconite, and supply its place with the proto-iodide of meicuriii>. Let those two remedies be continted until there is a marked change l<>r better or worse. If for the former, let the intervals be increased to one and a half or two hours ; for the latter, and there is approaching unconsiousness, with frequent arousing to cough up or hawk up the detached fragments of the deposits, that brings up tough, ropy, yellowish mucus, give kah bichoni- icum alone every hour. When the patient becomes really lietter, stoi) and give no more medicine while the improvement goes on satisfactorily. One reason why it is important to summon a physician as soon as the symptoms of the disease appear, is that many cases which appear sliglit, at first, are really most serious and fatal, while a common sore throat excites the greatest alarm, the judgement of the physician being necessary to decide the amount of danger in the case. In some cases dry sulphur, applied to the tonsils and throat gives relief, and in violent cases the fumes of sulphur, burned in the close room, have been used with good effect. An outward application to the throat, of lard as hot as it can be borne, is an aid to the other remedies mentioned. To avoid all causes of Diphtheria, keep the house free from dirt and filth of every kind from cellar to garret. See that no sewers give off gases, no drains are left filthy, and no out-house uncleaned, and bear in mind that it is not enough to destroy bad smells by disinfectants — the cause of the smells must be removed. A lady who had the courage and coolness to treat herself, through a sev- ere ease of diphtheria, when no physician was at hand, de.scribes her case thus : "I first noticed spores (the characteristic white patches which appear on the throat) on my right tonsil at 9 a. m. By noon they had spread over the entire arch of the palate, and the back of the throat. Several of these were loosened before night, but during the night they had spread up the nose and down the bronchial tube. My palate and tonsils were so swollen that I could scarcelj' speak, and with difficulty swallow. The gland on the right side of neck was much swooUen, and ached, causing a dull pain in the ear. The breath had the unpleasantodor peculiar to the disease, and I had an intense, burning fever. I began my remedies as soon as I discovered the spores. I took a clay pipe, filled the bowl one-eighth full of dry sulphur, powdered very fine, and shook it down into the stem. I then placed the end of the stem in my throat, and held it there in front of the spore, while an attendant blew into the bowl, and repeated this until the whole diseased surface of the throat was cov- ered with dry sulphur, taking care to hold my breath while the sulphur was being blown in. In half an hour this was repeated. I then made a strong gargle of chlorate of potash, and half an hour after using the last suli^liur, gargled my throat thoroughly. I then alternated the sulphur with the gar- gle of chlorate of potash every hour. At night I mixed a tea-spoon of sulphur with water, and swallowed it slowly, and continued taking it in this way three times a day. Blowing sulphur into the throat, and gargling with chlorate of potash was kept up regularly for four days, until every spore had disappeared, exactly as at first, except making the intervals longer as the disease abated. "Whenever I felt them getting down the bronchial tube, I drew breath gently when the sulphur was being blown into my throat. It almost chocked me to death, but I persevered. For my uose I snuffed up sulphur, just as old ladies take snuff, until satisfied that every part was reached. When the spores came off I watched for new ones, and did not relax my attention for one mo- ment for five days. When better, I made a gargle of honey, sage and water, to heal and remove the swelling in the throat. I afterward treated my hus- band successfully for the same disease, in the same way." Diphtheria is a disease which springs from the growth of real fungus on some of the miicuos surfaces of the system, more generally of the throat. It may spread by con- 1162 MEDICAL. tact of the mucous surfaces of a diseased with those of a healthy person, as ic kissing, and is, to a limited degree, epidemic. From the local p..rts aii'- ccted it spreads to the whole body, affecting the muscular and nervous sys- tems, vitiating the lymph and nutrient lluids, and proiiucing paraly.sis. As souu as the bacterium or fungus appears on the white patches on the throat, it shou'd no more be neglected than a bleeding gash or a broken arm, and tliore is almost as little need of a fatal termination of one incident as of the other. All'^pothir Treatment of Diphtheria. — One of the most successful physicians in treating this dreaded disease gives the following directions fur dealing with it. Mothers should accustom themselves and their children wheu j'oung to examine the throat for indications of diphtheria, and for this purpose a "tongue depresser." represented in accompanying cut is much more ctinvenient than a spoon, especially in the ca^e of babies who are apt to resist having anything thrust into their mouths With this the tongue is easily drawn down, and does nut slip from under it as it does from a spoon. It may be had from any druggist or dealer in surgical implements. The lirst yellowish white patches that indicate diphtheria appear on the tonsils on either side of palate, and mean danger and demand immediate and uuremilied attention. If ivithin reach send for a ])husiclan. The attack is almost as varied as is the temperament and constitution of the patient. Sometimes a slight feeling of illness is i)revalent fur a few days before the most serious attack. During this periotl drowsiness and cliil iness appear, followed b}' feverishnt ss, some- times headache and aching limbs; at other tin)es the attack comes on with a sudden faintness or an almost a])Sulute prostration ; while an almost univer- sal symptom, and a very characteristic one, is a slightly swollen and tender condition of glands at the angle of the lower jaw. The tonsils, one or both, are red and swollen; sometimes they are swollen but a e not red. In young children an almost unmistakable sign, which is very general, is that the redness is a rose color, while in older children or adults the color is a deep crimson or l)right scarlet, over the whole throat as seen by opening the mouth, tlic throat being attacked with the inflammation so that it s ows it. These symi)tonis may be more or less general, or to a great extent mixed or variable, according to the physical condition and temperament of the patient. After the appearance of this peculiar redness there is more or les - swelling of the tonsils, at which time the false membrane first forms, and is semi-trans- parent. It can readily be seen by careful observation. As the disease wears on, this membrane, M'hich is at first visible and semi-transparent, clianges its color and becomes partiall}' opaque, linr.lly becomes thick, dark, and if blood is drawn into it turns almost black. AViien the change from a darkened oj)ai]ue membrane commences to turn blar k it is one of the lirst symptoms of a putri Remittent Fever. — This makes its attack in a sudden and marked manner. There are no premonitory symptoms except, perhaps, a little lan- guor and debility, slight headache, and bad taste in the mouth, .sometimes some i)ain in the joints. Its commencement is with a chill, sometimes slight, sometimes severe and prolonged. The chill may begin in the feet, or shoul- ders, or back, running thence like streams of cold water. There is seldom more than this one chill, the fever coming on afterward without the cold stage. At certain periods of the day there is greater intensity of the symp- toms, and possil)ly the chill, though probably not. Between these periods of increased fever the disease seems to decrease, though there is still some fever. Unlike fever and ague, it does not go entirely off. During the hot stage the ])ulse is up to 120, or still higher, and there are pains in the head, back and limbs, of the most distressing kind. The tongue is covered with a yellowish fur, and in bad cases, is parched, brown or almost black in the center, and rod at the edges. The appetite is gone, and there is a general nausea and vomiting, and pain of tenderness in the upper part of the bowels. At first there is costiveness, but afterward the bowels become loose, and the evacua- tions are dark and offensive. This disease is produced by malaria, and pre- vails in hot climates, and in our summer and autumn. In the very beginninj; MEDICAL. 1165 the disease may be arrested by an emetic of lobelia or ipecac, followed by a mild cathartic. But if the disease is fully developed, sponge the body all over several times a day with water, and give cooling drinks, such as cream tartar, two scruples, in a quart of water, lemonade, etc. To allay the fever, give tincture of veratrum viride in ten-drop doses. Cold water and ice may be given the patient, if desired. Cool the head, when it aches, with cold ap- plications, and put a mustard poultice on the stomach if tender. During the remissions between the fever, quinine and other tonics must be given, as in fever and ague. Congestive Fever. — Another form of malarious fever is the congestive. It may be either remittent — that is, abating considerably ; or intermittent — that is, having intervals of entire freedom from fever. It may have intervals of twenty-f(iur or forty-eight hours. The first attack does not differ from that of simple intermittent, and may excite but little attention ; but the second is always severe, producing great coldness, and a death-like hue to the face and extremities. The advancement of the disease brings dry, husky, parched, and pungently hot skin, followed after a time by a cold, clammy sensation. The eyes are dull, waterj', and sometimes glassy; the countenance dull, sleepy, distressed ; the tongue, at first white, changes to brown or black, and is usually tremulous ; the breathing is hurried and difficult. Pressure over the liver, stomach or bowels, produces pain. The mind is often disturbed, and falls into lethargy and stujjor, or is delirious. The treatment should be nearly the same as in bilious remittent. AVhile convalescing, the diet must be light and nutritious at first, increasing in quantitv as the strength returns. Use a mild tonic if the patient is weak. Exercise out of doors must not be neglected. Hay Fever (or Asthma). — This very peculiar disease appears generally as a severe attack of catarrh, with asthmatic symptoms superadded. The lin- ing membrane of the eyes, nose, throat and lungs is all more or less affected. The patient suffers from headache, sometimes severe, sneezing, irritation of the nose and throat, with a dry, harrassing cough. The asthmatic attacks come on gently towards evening, and last from one to three hours, causing great distress. Haj' fever is not a very common com])laint, and only attacks those persons who, from some peculiarity of constitution, are susceptible to the causes producing it. It is supposed to l)e caused l>y the inhalation of the pungent aroma of spring grass and hay ; but the inhalation of the powder of ipecacuanha will also produce it in certain individuals. In the United States where the rose is largely cultivated, similar attacks sometimes occur; it is then called rose fever or rose catarrh. The best treatment is change of air to the sea-side, if possible. During the attacks antispasmodics, such as sal volatile, ether, or an emetic if the patient is able to bear it, inhalations of hot steam medicated with creosote, carbolic acid, or turpentine, will be found useful. AVhen the attack passes off, the general health sliould be improved by tonicB, diet, etc. * Typhoid Fever. — Typhoid fever is generally preceded by several days of langour, low spirits, and indisposition to exertion. There is also usuallv some pain in the back and head, loss of appetite, and drowsiness, though not rest. The disease shows itself by a chill. During the first week there is in- creased heat of the surface, frequent pulse, furred tongue, restlessness and sleeplessness, headache and pain in the back ; sometimes diarrhea and swell- ing of the belly, and sometimes nausea and vomiting. The second week is oftened distinguished by small, rose-colored spots on the belly, and a crop of little watery pimples on the neck and chest, having the appearance of mi- nute drops of sweat ; the tongue is dry and black, or red and sore ; the teeth are foul ; there may be delirium and dulness of hearing ; and the symptoms 1166 MEDICAT,. every way are more serious than during the first week. Occasionally the bowel.s are at this period perforated or ate through by ulceration, and the patient suddenly sinks. If the disease proceeds unfavorably into the third week, there is low, muttering delirium, great exhaustion, sliding d(jwn of the patient toward the foot of the bed, twitching of the muscles, bleeding from the bowels, and red and purple spots ujkju the skin. If, on the other hand, tlie patient improves, the countenance brightens up, the pulse moderates, the tongue cleans, and the discharges look healthy. Give the patient good air, and frequent spongings with water, cold or tejnd, as most agreeable. Keep the bowels in order, and be njore afraid of diarrhea than eostiveness. Dnirrhea should be restrained by injections of cold water. For eostiveness, give mild injections, made slightly loosening by castor oil or common mo- lasses. To keep down the fever and produce presi)iration, give tincture of veratrum viride, ten drops every hour. If the bowels are swelled, relieve them ])y hot fomentation of hops and vinegar. If the pain in the head is very severe and constant, let the liair be cut short and the head bathed fre- quently with cold water, (.iive light nourishment, such as milk, etc. ; and if tiie debility is great, broth will be needeatient is very weak, quinine may be given from the beginning. Constant care and good nursing are very important. Typhus fever is distinguished froni typhoid by there being no marked dis- ease of the bowels in typhus. The patient must be placed in a large, well- ventilated room, where drafts may be avoided ; he should liave his bed so situated that the light from a window will not fall upon his face, as this is annoying; all curtains, carpets and bed hangings should be at once re- moved: the bed should not be too soft, and a macintosh or india-rubb<'>r sheet should be placed under the patient. lie should not be allowed to ex- ert himself in any way, as it is absolutely necessary that he husband all his strength. The greatest cleanliness must be observed, and all excretia re- moved at once, and carbolic acid or chloride of lime should be mixed with them ; soiled linen should be put in a tub containing some carbolic acid. Bed- sores are very liable to form on the back, and so the nurse must always be on the lookout and try to yn-event tliem l)y smoothing the sheets, drying the pa- tient, and rublMUg lirandy and and balsam of Peru over the part; better still to have a water cushion or water Ited. The skin may be sponged down with tepid water, one part being sponged at a time, so as to prevent any undue chill of the surface from exposure ;lhis relieves the patient and j)artly counter- acts that disagreeble smell which the skin gives off in typhus cases. None but the nurse and doctor should see the patient ; all noises must be stopped, and perfect quiet enjoined ; at night there should be a small light in the room, but so placed as not to disturlj the patient. Milk must be the chief article of diet, and is best given cold ; an egg or two may be beaten up in it, antl three or four pints of nnlk may be given in the twenty-four hours; this nuist be done at regular fntervals of two hours, in equal quantities, special care being taken that it is given at night and in the early morning, when prostration is greatest. Beef-tea and broths, jellies, extract of beef, custards, etc,, may be given if the patient can take them and wants them For drinks in the early stage, lemonade, cold tea, soda-water may be given, but do not let them have too much eflfervescent drinks ; in l)ad cases the nurse will have enough to do to get the milk down. Stimulants are very useful, but the quantity must vary with each case, and be left to the doctor's judgement. Brandy is the best stimulant, and maybe given with iced milk; too much must liot ])e given at first, as it causes opjiression and inability to tiike nu- trient food ; but afterwards, in the stage of great prostratiou. its proper and careful adii^ni'stration may save the patient's life. MEDICAL. 1167 Yellow Fever. — This disease is most prevalent in hot climates, and south- ern cities of our country. It comes in the latter part of summer, and lasts till frosty weather. The disease begins with a chill, generally not very se- vere. Following the chill, there is moderate fever, and some heat of the surface ; but rarely rises to any great height, and only continnes to the second or third day, when, in fatal cases, it gives place to coldness of surface, etc. lu many cases there is sweating. The pulse is regular and often over a hundred, but feeling like a bubble under the finger, which breaks and van- ishes Vjefore it can be fairly felt. The tongue is moist and white in the first and second days; but red, smooth, shininjj,' and dry as the disease advances toward the close, having a dry, black streak in the middle. The most strik- ing symptoms are nausea and vomiting, which, in fatal cases, is very per- sistent ; and toward the last a yellowish or greenish matter is thrown up, followed by a discharge of thin black fluid, which is called the black vcjmit. The bowels are generally active, with tenderness in the upper bowels or stomach. There is generally severe headache and a peculiar expression of face, in which the lips smile, while the rest of the face is tixed and sad, sometimes wild. The patient continues wakeful night and day. There are discharges of blood,. often from the nose, the gums, the ears, the stomach, the bowels and the urinary passages. First move the bowels with some mild physic, such as sweet tincture of rhubarb, four ounces ; bicarbonate of soda, two drachms. Mix. Give a table-spoonful once in three hours until it operati's. During the chill, use all the usual means of warming the body — by hot bottles, mustard foot-bath, warm drinks, draughts, etc. A warm poultice on the stomach is useful — some would advise cupping. During the second, or calm stage, give gentle stimulants, warm drinks, and five-drop doses of veratrum veride, also quinine. In the third stage, brandy, quinine, and all stimulants freely. To quiet the vomiting, give this prescription; creosote, twenty drops; spirits of mindererus, six ounces; and alcohol enough to dis- solve "the creosote. Dose — half an ounce, every two hours. Temperance, cleanliness, and all g )od habits, do much to prevent this disease. A French physician asserts that liability to yellow fever is preven- ted by drinking onh^ boiled water. He believes that the fever is the exclu- sive result of using corrupted water, and that, if one is attacked by it, he may be cured in a few hours by drinking large quantities of boiled water. Many of our best authorities believe that infusoria is the cause of the disease. Headaches. — Headaches are always symptoms of some derangement of the system in some' of its parts, and should not be neglected. In children, they generally indicate the approach of some disease. In adults they are occasioned frec^uently by a bad circulation, impaired digestion, and by af- fections of the nerves. For the first, active exercise and a slight physic are only necessary ; for the second, light diet, with exercise and a dose of some bitter alkali after meals ; and for the third, the same treatment as for neural- gia, being careful about the diet. Sometimes a patient is subject to rheu- matic headache, which may be treated with warm fomentations, stimulating liniment, and a gentle i)hysic. The patient should dress warmly, and avoid exposure to cold and wet feet A doctor in Paris has published a new remedy for headaches. He uses a mixture of ice and salt, in proportion of one to one-half, as a cold mixture, and this he applies by means of a little purse of silk gause, with a rim of gutta percha, to limited s])ots on the head when rheumatic headaches are felt. It gives instantaneous relief. The skin is subjected to the process from half a minute to one and a half minutes, and is rendered bard and white by the application. 2. — Put a handful of salt into a quart of water, add one ounce of spirits of hartshorn and half an ounce of camphorated spirits of wine. Put them quickly into a bottle, and cork tightly to prevent the escape 1168 MEDICAL. of the spirit. Soak a piece of rag with the mixture, and apply it to the head ; wet the rag afresh as soon as it is heated. — 3. It is stated that two tea-spoons of finely-powdered charcoal, drank iii lialf a tumbler of water, will, in less than fifteen minutes, give relief to the siened on one occasion to take some medicine which induced vomiting, and this act was followed by immediate recf)very. Snl)se(|uently whenever she had the symp- toms of an approaching attack of palpitation, she resorted to an emetic, which not only gave relief to the i)aroxysms, but finally relieved her altogether. In another case, a patient entered a hospital, sufteriug severeh' from violent ac- tion of the heart ; he was l)led and blistered and pnrged, without benefit; having taken a large dose of medicine, vomiting ensueil, with immediate and permanent relief. Tea, and especially green tea, is very liable to disturb the heart's action when used by susceptible persons. And there is no doubt that an immense number of persons in every community sutfer from minor forms of heart derangement, due to the use of tea. Tobacco, either smoked or chewed, invariably effects the heart's action, and produces irregularity and palpitation. Jaundice. — A disease characterized by yellowness of the skin and eyes and urine, the discharge from the bowels being of a whitish or clay color. It is caused by the excretion of bile being prevented and retained in the blood, or reabsorbed and diffused tlirough the system. It depends upon various and different internal causes, l^regnant women frcMjuently siiff'er from it. Any kind of pressure upon the excretory ducts, such as by tumors, I'tc, or the ducts being tilled up with mucus, inspissated l)ile, or biliary calculus will oc- casion it. It may also occur as a symptom of chronic or acute inflammation of the liver. Fits of anger, fear or alarm have sometime's been directly fol- lowed by an attack of jaundice. And, lastly, certain forms of it are i)roduceil occasionally by long continued hot weather. An attack of jaundice is usu- ally i>receded by symptoms of a disordered state of the liver and digestive (U'gans. loss of appetite, irregular or constiinited bowels, colic, nausea, head- ache, langour, etc. Sooner or later the yellow color l»egins to ajipear. usually lirst in the eye, then in the face, then on the chest, and tiiuUly covering the whole bod\'. Sonietimes the yellowness is the first symytom ; and again, as s(jon as the yellow stage is reached many of the preliminary svmptoms di- minish. The shades of yellowness are various — frf>m a light yellow to a deep orange hue, and, in some cases, of a greenish or even a blackish color. In the latter cases it is known as ''black jaundice." The greenish or darkish varieties are considered most dangerous. Some kinds of jaundice are absolutely irrenuMliable, while others will pass off without any treatment. If the patient be young, and the disease complicated with no other nuilady, it is seldom dangerous ; but in old j)eople, where it continiu's long, rt>turns freijuentiy, or is complicated with dropsy or other disease, the condition upon which it depends generally leads to a fatal result. In general the obvious treatment is to promote s^'cretion of the bile MEDICAL. 1169 and to favor its removal. In ordinary cases, a strong infusion of rhubarb root taken freely, so as to keep up a laxative action, without active purging or vorniting; a cool, light, and laxative diet (such as ripe fruits, mild vege- tables, chicken and veal broth, new eggs, stewed jjrunes and buttermilk) ; free ventilation and hot fomentations twice a day, for half a n hour, over the liver, incase of torpor and obstruction; or cold cloths, in case of exces- sive production of bile, will usuallj'- effect a cure. Some prescribe an infu- sion of thoroughwort, drank freely every day. Cold water should be the only drink ; no coffee, tea, etc. j^s much exercise should be taken as the patient can stand ; and if there be any spasmodic pain in the right side, the patient should sit frequently in a warm bath up to his shoulders. .1/iy at- tack of jaundice maj' turn out seriously, and therefore as soon as the symp- toms develope themselves a physician should be sent for. Persons subject to jaundice ought to take as much active exercise as possible, and should avoid all exhausting food and stimulating drinks. Water Treatment at Home. — The following methods oi treatment witu water, etc., have been tested and we know whereof we speak when we say they work like a charm. A thermometer is needed to test the temperature, as the terms hot, cold, warm and tepid are so indelinite ; what is hot to one person is cold to another, in the morl^id states through which sick people pass, and the sensations of healthy people ai-e so varial)le that they can not be relied \i\nn\ to temper baths by the touch, for those with whom a slight change is of consequence. Generally 70° Farenheit would be considered a cold bath, 85° tepid, 95° warm, and 105° hot. The time of taking baths is from an hour to two hours after, and never within half an hour before, eat- ing ; and those who are taking treatment for chronic ailments, or for cleanli- ness, should not bathe when tired ; but when one is suffering from acute disease, and becomes restless and nervous, a sponge-bath or, if able to bear it, a pack or a sitz or foot-bath will greatly refresh and soothe. From ten to twelve in the morning generally finds the body at the highest point of vigor, and as treatments are most beneficial then, this proves the best time ; but if this can not be, take just before retiring. In all baths a cold wet cloth should be kept on head, and jug of hot water, with rubber cork, at feet (except in foot-baths), keeping head cool and feet warm. When baths are to be reduced, add cold water till right temperature is reached ; but after f ( Jot-baths the better waj^ is to have a pail of cold water and take what is called a foot-plunge, im- mersing the feet one at a time, for a moment in this pail ; or the cold water may be poured right over the feet. The theory is this : whenever water is ap])lied to any part or the whole of the body, at so high a temperature as to relax the coats of the capillaries and distend them with blood, it must be followed by an application at so low a temperature as to constringe the ves- sels and restore their tone. When bath is completed wrap at once in a dry sheet and rub vigorously with a crash towel, as the patient must not have any chilly sensations, and the skin should be left all aglow. A strong person may now take any exercise wished, so as to establish thorough and perma- nent reaction, but delicate persons had better rest for an hour or two. The Sitz-Bath. — This is a very pleasant remedy for a great many ills. To take, have a sitz-bath tub, which is either of tin or wood, something the shai)e of a chair, the seat being the tub, and the back is hollowed out to fit the back of person ; or one can be improvised by taking a large wash-tub and placing something under the back, so as to incline it. Patient undresses and sits in tub, with enough water to nearly fill it when he sits down, with a foot-tub of water for his feet ; place blankets around him from the front, so as to well cover him, and tuck in carefully at the back ; place a cold wet cloth on head. The general temperature for a sitz is 92°, for ten minutes ; 88°, five minutes ; and for foot water 100°. ^ Now have a pail of cold water, and plunge feet one 1170 MEDICAL. at a time in it. then tlirow a dry sheet around him, and riih dry quickly and vicrorously ^ith a crash towel. These sitz-baths are ^ood for colds, diarrhea, piles, female weakness, urinary trouble, bilious colic, and, in fact, almost every ill that flesh is heir to. For colds — a sitz-bath as warm as can be borne (106° is good), adding hot water as it cools, so as to keep it at that temperature for fifteen minutes; with a foot-bath hot, hotter, hottest. Keep well wrapped up, a cod wet cloth on head, rub thoroughly dry, and go right to bed. Or some follow with a dripping sheet; ami others who are robust, and wish to break u}) a severe cold, take this hot sitz, then a pack at about 85°, then a dripping sheet, and diet carefully for two or three days, remaining in l)ed if possible. Where it is only a slight cold a hot foot-bath, as described elsewhere, sutlices ; and this is also better for children under six or seven years of age, as you can not casilv give them a sitz. After all ballts always tririp a dnj sheet around the l)erson, rubbing dry with it ; this prevents anj' chilliness. Some use a crasli towel also, especially for the feet. The tempeVature of a sitz-batli, in difierent diseases, is about as follows : Colds — hot as can be borne. Diarrhea — cool, about !J0° for ten minutes, and 84°, five minutes. Piles — 96°, ten minutes ; 90°. five minutes. P'emale weak- ness — 94°, ten minutes; 88°, ten minutes. Pn^fuse menstruation — 84, five minutes; 78°, five minutes, and 7l'°, five minutes. Urinary troubles — 1>2°, ten minutes, and 88°, five minutes. Uilious colic and for all acute ]>ain.s — 120°, rapidly raised to as hot as can l)e borne, ]>u' take out ])aticnt before perspiring. ' Chronic ]nuns — 104°, three minutes; 90°, five minutes, ami 8(i°, five minutes. For malaria — 104°'at first, adding hot water till the i)erson per- spires. For retention of urine, with a desire to urinate — a sitz-bath at 100°, ten minutes, and 90°, five minutes, with foot-bath as hot as can be borne, with cold plunge and a vigorous rubbing with damp-salt, repeated for two or three davs, will give perfect relief. The sitz-bath is of great importance in drawing the blood from the brain, and alsf) relieves congestion of the abilominal structures. The usual length is from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to strength of patient, if an in- valid, or as it feels comfortable. The Foot- Hath. — This good old remedy for colds, etc., as given was always attended with the risk of taking more cold. This is easily overcome by the very s;m])le adjunct of a pail of cold water in which to plunge the feet, and give bath in this way for a cold: At night have a foot-tub of hot water — 110°, or hotter if patient lui'll hear it; and he can be dressed or undressed, but must, either case, be well wrapped with a blanket, a cold wet cloth on head, and as water cools add hot. In ten or fifteen minutes take out feet and plunge for a moment in pail of cold water, then wipe dry and rub to a glow, retire at once, and in the morning all traces of the cold, such as head stopped uj), sore throat, etc., will have disappeared. For a little child, where ho can not take the plunge, wet a towel in cold water, and take his feet in your la]) and rrib with the wet towel and then wipe dry. The jilunge or cooling of the water ought to follow all foot-baths, whether for colds, a tired feeling, headache, cleanliness, etc "Where one has had a hard da3'"s work nothing is more restful than a foot-bath as hot as can be borne. The usual foot-bath is 104°. and hot water added to keeji it at this point for ten or fifteen minutes; but where it is given with sitz, no more hot water is added. For chronic cold feet have water as hot as can be borne one minute, then jilunge feet in cold, then in the hot a minute, and repeat this from six to ii dozen times, ending with the cold i)lunge, and then rub vigorously. For a child, need not make so many changes. Take this th.ee times a week. For a sprain, this treatment is one of the best; or a spray of hot a minute, and tlienacold opray, then hot, and so on for half a dozen timet* MEDICAL. 1171 What is called by some a deep-leg bath is only an "extension foot-bath," and is of prime importance in congestion of the brain, catarrh, and, in fact, any head trouble, as it is purely a derivative bath. It is given best in a tub twenty-eight inches high, top diameter twenty inches, and bottom seventeen inches. Have patient stand in this with water to his hips, of the tempera- ture of 108° or 110°, for ten minutes, cold wet cloth on his head, and a sheet wrapped around him : step out and spraj' the legs, or even the whole body, with water of the temperature of 85°, and gradually reduced to as cool as can be borne ; or a bucket of water 85° can be thrown over legs, and then one at 75°. Where there is severe congestion of the brain, have two pails of water, same temperature as tub, placed on each side, high enough to come up even with top of tub, and have patient immerse his arms in these. The deep leg-bath can not be taken till two hours after eating, but the ordinary foot-bath in an liour or an hour and a half. A foot-bath may be given in bed by placing a rubber cloth under the foot-tub, and it gives great relief ofttimes. Fomentations. — The method of giving this treatment is very simple, and yet very few give them correctly. First, have flannel cloths, made of four thicknesses white shaker-flannel (or pieces of a blanket), sewed across the center from corner to corner, and also all around the edges. Different sizes are needed : one, 10 by 13 inches, for across small of back ; one, 12 by 17 inches, for over chest, stomach and bowels ; and one, 5 by 18 inches, for down the spine ; then one for the throat. And of course one can make any shapes wished ; and where there are children, many diff'erent sizes must be in readiness in the bath-room cupboard. Fomentations are good for all pains, aches, inflammations, inactivity of stomach and liver, and are always a success, giving relief to pain at once. Where the case is acute, they should be given daily, and in severe cases oftener — if necessary, continuing for two hours at a time. (Have known them to be given for five consecutive hours.) The usual length of time is twenty or twenty-five minutes, giving four or five changes of five minutes each. For a child, if rather weak, give only two or three changes, and repeat oftener, if for pain, whenever it returns. The manner of treatment is this : Place on a bed or cot a comforter or blanket. Let patient undress entirely, as he does for a pack, and lie upon the blanket, with a jug of hot water at his feet; then wring the flannel out of boiling water — and there are different ways of doing this — as, to be efficacious, the cloth must be very hot — as hot as patient can bear, and he can bear it a great deal hotter than he thinks. Of course, for children, the one who gives treat- ment must be the judge. One rule is, what you can bear to your face ; or some put one thickness of dry flannel next skin, and then the hot fomentation ; or wring flannel with your hands, or have water at 150°. Lut, for adults, the best way is to immerse flannel in boiling water and wring with a wringer — a small one, fastened to a wooden pail, being very convenient ; or, if one has a bath- room, have a sink in that, and fasten wringer to it; or a small tub can bear- ranged with feet, so it can be moved into any room necessary. The next best way is to place in a foot-tub a cloth of two thicknesses of heavy muslin (flour sack will do) , extending over the ends of tub ; place flannel folded in center of it, and have two square sticks (two feet long and inch and a half square) ready to place at each end, resting on top of flannel ; pour on the boiling water, put in sticks, and let one person take hold of each, turning sticks , bringing up the mus- lin around it, and then wring in opposite direction ; or, if only on j person pre- pares cloth, have another dry muslin cloth, and, after boiling water is poured on flannel, lift all into this dry cloth, and then wring. This is rather severe on the hands, but can be done. Now put flannels on part to be fomented, and bring up one side of blanket, then the other, and then comforter, placing a cold wet cloth on head. (If patient is sick in bed, a piece of dry flannel can be 1172 MEDICAL. placed under him, if back is to be fomented or if the upper part of body, over the fomentation cloth;<, and then, in either case, tuck bedclothes well aroud him.) Let flannels remain five minutes, wrinj^ again; or, if you have two cloths, liave si'cond one ready, and let it remain on live minutes, and so on for twenty or tliirty minutes. In chronic diseases rej)eat this three or four times a week, and it will prove to be one of the best treatments to reduce chronic inflammation and conjestion of the stomach, liver, bowels, spleen, and kidniys. After the fomentations, sponge ofl" part fomented with tepid water, rub dry with a towel, and oil witli sweet or cocoanut oil; and if for pain or soreness, use sweet oil and ammonia, prepared by dropi)ii)g ammonia into sweet oil till it becomes white (to a two-ounce bottle of oil, three or four drops.) This rubl)ing with oil prevents taking cold. In pneumonia nothing is better than hot fomentations given as described. In rheumatic fever, add c<)oking-so(la to the water, in proportion of a table-sj)oon to a quart of water, and foment right over the heart. In rheumatism, neuralgia, bilious colic, etc., etc., fomentations avail much, giving instantaneous relief sometimes. Sickness at the stomach, a dizzy, heavy feeling, and severe pain in the head, will all be relieved at once by fomenting the stomach. For a babe who has severe colic, when fomentations are applied with two thicknesses of flannel next skin, and with care, they are just the thing. In any bronchial or lung trouble, tliese given over the lungs, chest and throat, extending half way around neck, have been known to in time effect a cure where the voice had been almost lost. The elfect of fomentations is to bring the lilood to the sur- face, and thus jjrevi'ut niflammation and congestion. They can be taken any time, excipt half an hour before or an hour and a half after eating. r'emale Weaknesses. — One of the l>est treatments for leucorrhea, ulcera- tion, and, In fact, any female weakness, is the hot vaginal enema. Tlie best syringe to use is one that has only side oiienings in the metal tube, and tliLs is an I'asy way to give it: Place a blanket in the long bath-tub, letting it reach down to the hips when you lie down on y(nir back. The temperature most often used is 110° for ten minutes, and 10o° for five minutes ; but it can be as hot as can be borne, as what is unpleasant to the surface is hardly felt in the inti'rior ; and by placing a folded blanket under the hips, so as to raise tlu-m quite high,anil closing the opening around the tube of tlie syringe when inserted, a pint of water may be retained for several minutes, acting as a fo- mentatitm to the inner surface; then eject this and insert more, and so contintie for ten to twenty minutes. Repeat this three times a week, and wear all the time, day and niglit, a compress made of three thicknesses of linen, long enough to pass well around the abdomi'U, wet in tepid water, with a dry flannel (about two thicknesses) over it; re-wet the compress whenever it becomes dry. Then there are the fomentations and sitz-baths, described elsewhere, which are invaluable. Another special treatment is the pelvic compress: Take two or three thicknesses of linen, aliout 10 by 12 inches, and have 1)ed or cot arranged as for a pack ; have ])atient lie down upt)n the blanket, with jug of hot water at feet, and cool cloth on head ; then wet com- press in water at 80° and place over abdomen, extending well over the aflF- ected parts ; bring up blanket and comforter, and in five nunutes wet cloth in water at 74°, in three minutes 70°, in five minutes 04°, in three minutes 60°, in five minutes cold, and after five minutes take a towel and rub dry. This, repeated three times a week, "is very strengthening. In pregnancy, tepid sitz-baths, the wearing of the compress around abdomen, and a diet of fruit, grains an(l vegetables, with oil-baths occasionally, if one is not fleshy, keep the system in a healthy state. Compresses. — The use of compresses is good for so many ailments that one should know how to apply them. Compress cloths are made of two or three thicknesses of old linen" (crash fowling is good), and can be of whatever MEDICAL, 1173 shapes wished. The difference between compresses and fomentations are the first is wet, and wrung so it will not drip, in tepid or cold water, — hence linen is best; while the latter is wet in hot water. A dry flannel of two thicknesses, a little wider and longer, is put on over the linen compress, which IS re-wet three times a day in chronic cases, or when it feels un- comfortaljle. The throat compress, for chronic trouble, is wet in tepid water, and is worn day-time in summer and at night in winter; and when taken off, the throat is bathed in cold water and rubbed till red with a crash towel. The chest compress, in acute cases — such as pneumonia — should be re-wet every three hours in water at 90° ; for chronic lung trouble, re-wet whenever it feels unpleasant. The abdominal compress is one of great value in fevers, kidney trouble, indigestion, weak back (for this use salt in water), female weakness, and is always a relief when one is tired and restless. For acute or chronic cases, wear till the disease is conquered. The spinal compress is used where there is pain in the spine, with sense of heat, and is given like a fomentation, only with the linen compress ; 70<^ for five minutes ; 64°, five min- utes, 6U°, five minutes ; 54°, five minutes ; 50*^', five minutes ; and sometimes the last changes are ice-cold. For weak back caused by a sore place, use a hot flannel compress five minutes across the small of back, then a cold linen one, then hot, and so on for half an hour, with cold last, rubbing dry with crash towel. Another remedy for simply a weak back, is to first sponge with liot water one minute, then cold one minute, for two or three times, rubbing dry, and then use oil and ammonia. Compresses are very much used after giving fomentations, and, in that case, no sponging off in cool water or oiling is necessary, but immediately put on the wet girdle and cover with dry flannel. Packs. — First, it is much more convenient if you can have what is called a "packing cot" made. A good proportion for the frame-work is thirty inches wide, twenty-five inches high, with the slats placed on a slight ele- vation, about three and a half inches, at head. Then a mattress made to fit (it can be straw or whatever you wish); on that place an oil-cloth, then a comforter, then a blanket, stripes at side, and a jug of hot water, with a rubber cork, at foot. Now have the patient undress. Take a sheet, and with one hand pleat up the side of it, and wiih the other double it at mid- dle seam and dip it in a pail of water of the temperatune of 96° or 100° (you must allow five or six degrees for cooling off in wringing out sheet), wring and spread over the blanket. Have patient lie on his back in center, with hands over head ; bring one side of sheet over the body, tucking it under the near shoulder and up close to the neck, and then between the legs ; put arms down at side of body, and bring other side of sheet over the patient and tuck in closely under the side of the body down to the feet, then one side of blanket, then the other, then comforter in same way. In folding the blanket and com- forter around neck bring it with one hand, in shape of a V, over the breast, and then fold corner up to the shoulder and tuck in. This saves so much bulk close up to the neck. Now fold a dry sheet across the middle and put over the patient, tucking it in well around the neck, so that no air can get in. The reason of using this extra sheet is, it is so much easier tucked closely around the neck and less bungling than the comforter. It is of great importance that all air be excluded and the work done quickly. Place a cloth wet in cold water on the head, extending over the eyes. If the patient does not warm up quickly, put an extra comforter or blanket over him, and, if necessary, jugs of hot water at the side ; for unless he'becomes warm soon, the pack will do no good, and he should be taken out. The usual length of a pack is from forty minutes to an hour, for an adult; for a child, from ten minutes to half an hour— according to age and strength. There must be perfect quiet in the room, for much better results are obtained if the patient will sleep. 1174 MEDICAL. he certainly must not talk, In taking him out unloose comforters and blankets, and pull the wet sheet out quickly and thiow over the dry sheet or, in winter, bring up the blanket. There 'are several different treatments that follow a pack. If convenient to a bath-room, one can slip in and take a wash-olT, or a spray, or Pail-ponr. The latter is given by having four pails of water — two of one temperature, 90°, poured over feet and then two of 80° : then wrap around him a dry sheet and take a crash towel and wipe dry, taking, m ro.ation, arms, breast, back, and legs. Or a dripping sheet can be given right in the room by putting an oil-cloth on the carpet ; on that put a foot-tub of water at 104° ; the patient stands in this, and a sheet is dipj)ed in a pail half full of water at 90°, or less, taken up by two corners, scjueezed slightly, and put around him from the front, lapping behind and then rub him (over the sheet) vigorously for a minute; re-dip the sheet (water may be cooler or some cold may be added to make it about 6° or 8° less than at first), and put it around from behind, and rub again; then re- move .and cover with a dry sheet and rub vigorously. This bath is a good treatment taken alone as well as after a pack. It acts as a tonic, and a well perst)n can take it himself, Or, if an oil-bath, sponge or dry rub is given, let him remain on the cot, and, for an oil-bath, rub an arm dry with a crash towel, then rub with oil, and so on ; for a sponge-bath, take a sponge (or a towel) and tepid water, and sponge off, rubbing dry with a crash towel; for a dry rub, simply rub dry with a crash towel, rubbing hard to create good circulation. Tlie temperature of the room should be about 75°; and when the patient is taken out of the pack, let no cold air come to him. The teuj- perature of the water in which sheet is dipped, for adults general 'y, is not so important, as within two or three minutes it becomes of the same tem- perature as tlie body ; from 90° to 100° is a good range, but for children and delicate persons it should be from 100° to 110°, so as not to shock them. Packs are of great value in reducing fever, in breaking up a cold, in malarial diseases, such as f(>ver and ague, etc. ; and also in poor circulation and where the system is weakened and run down it acts as a tonic. In the spring when the system needs l)uilding ud. just try a few packs instead of the sulphur and molases of old times. Oil-rubs. — This treatment is one that gives perfect satisfaction to all who try it; indeed, too much praise can but be given to it. To see the elTects of oil-rubs, one would say as did the Queen of She])a, "The half has not been told." To give it, have the patient undress, with a sheet or blanket around him, sitting up or lying down; take either cocoanut. pure olive or sweet oil, whichever can be obtained the purest; pour some in jjalm of hand, rub hands together, then take an arm and rub in the oil thoroughly, rubbing up and down, using more oil if necessary (as much as skin will absorb) ; cover this arm ; take more oil and rub the other arm, then breast, back and legs ; cover each part when finished. Repeat from three to six tiHies a week, as the case may demand. One who is greatly reduced can take with benefit six a week. Once a week take a wash-oil", or an acid spon*e, by putting a scant tea-cup vinegar in a gaJlon of warm water, and iisini; a s])onge or towel, then rubbing dry. This is especially good for consumjUives, dyspep- tics, and persons who, from any cause, have been reduced in flesh and strength. It acts as a tonic, — thus it is of twofold value where one is re- covering from sickness, as it is also nutritive to them, and to those who are cold-blooded it warms up the system. So for children it is especially good in winter, as an oil-ruD at night will assist in keeping them warm ; so, in the dav-time, if going on a long drive, or to be exposed to the cold for awhile, it is a good "send-off." For colds it works to a charm, for voung or old, acting as a preventive, as it builds up the system, and renders it less liable to disease. Or when a cold is taken, it is easily broken up MEDICAL. 1175 by a pack, followed immediately by an oil-rub, and the next two nights simply oil-rubs, a hot foot-bath, 108° then cooled down, and followed by a complete oil-rub. Where adults or children are delicate, the oil-rub gives food, health jf flesh ; and where it is given as described, the result is perfect, 'or constipation it is invaluable, working a perfect cure after a month or two. It can be given at any time, without reference to eating, as it is a nutritive batla. The followhig description — given by Dr. James H. Jackson of "Our Homeonthe Hillside," at Dansville, N. Y., where these rubs have been used many years — tells in forcible language <^heir use and value : "Oil-baths are given by rubbing the body all over with some kind of oil. It is not necessary to use more than two or three table-spoonfuls at one bath, but it should be rubbed in thoroughl}', especially over the abdomen, inside the arms and t^iighs, where it can be absorbed to the best advantage. They may be taken at any time during the day. It is as well, perhaps, to take them before going to bed as at any other time. They may be given to meet any one of three conditions : "1st. To supply waste of tissue and to introduce a very inportant ele- ment of nutrition into the body. Many persons will absorb oil to advantage nutritively, who can neither take it nor fats by the stomach without great distress or disturbance. "2d. To improve the functions of the skin, which may become dry and hard, and lacks proper circulation in its capillaries. "3(1. To allay nervous irritation and reduce fever. Persons in parox- ysms of fever, in typhoid, measles and scarlatina especially, may be freely anointed with oil to great advantage. In my practice I have often seen the temperature of the body, when in a febrile state, reduced from one to three degrees by an administration of an oil-bath. I like the cocoanut oil better than the olive, it is more likely to be genuine ; it penetrates better, it does not turn rancid on the body, and I think it furnishes more nutriment to the body. Olive ods, as a general thing, are impure." From the above /ou can see it is "multum in parvo," as it can really be depended upon for use in almost every thing the flesh is heir to ; and the great beaut}' of it is, any one can give it without feeling fear as to the results. It can do no harm unless the patient is very fleshy ; then ir is not needed. It is so easily given that a child can give it to younger children. Its use in reducing fever is of untold value. A lady,wlio had had extended experience in using it, says . "I have known an oil-bath given a patient, in scarlet fever, with fever raging, and in a little while the temperature wasrediiced, and lie was quietly sleeping." For little babies it is really a blessing, as it nourishes and strengthens them ; and given every other day, with a sponge-ofl'in warm water the inter- vening day, an infant will do much better than when bathed daily. It is also a great help in supplying nourishment wliere the mother has not sufficient nurse, and aids, too, in preventing the little colds, snuffles, colic, etc.. that hover around the little one the first two or three months, needing our most watchful care to ward them off. Then, where there is any constipation, it is a perfect panacea — so much better than physic or enemas It acts as a preventive to croup ; and when a child is weakened hy that dread disease, cholera infantum, nothing so helps to give tone to the system as the oil-rub. It certainly is the best of baby medicines, a baby can "grow up" without any other remedy. Diphtheria. — This dreaded disease needs all the knowledge one can pos- siblj' obtain, so we give below the hygienic treatment as prescribed by Dr. J. H. Jackson, of "Our Home," Dansville, N. Y. First, he says, to tell a genuine case, make a swab and apply to patches on the throat; common ulcers will rub off, but diphtheritic patches will not. A good gargle is to make a solution, ag strong as will dissolve, of chlorate of potassa, and bottle 117G MEDICAL. for use. When needed, take in proportion to one-half Hohation and one-half soft water, and one-half ;,'rain pernianjranate <>f potash to ounce of mix- ture. For a stronger t^aruk', take two-thirtls solution to one-third water, antl one-half grain permanganate of potash to onnee of mixture. In case of dii)li- theria, keep the room at >(/\ and liave boiler of water on stove, or hang wet sheets in ro(tm, in order to keep the room saturated with warm vapor, and also have fresh air in the room. His treatment is as follows: ''When the person is attacked, in cases where the e))idemic is present in the vicinity, with a sore throat, pain in tiie hea I. in limhs, in back— in other Words, the symptoms being ^-ery mucli like those of a hard cold — I be- gin bv putting the person at it. Su'alloiui)tg I'ieces of Broken (Uass, Pinx, etc. — By no means take a pur- gative. Rather j)artake freely of suet i)udding, or any solid farinaceous food, and it is possible that both may pass away together without injury being done. Bites of Scrpentx. — When bitten by a rattlesnake or other ])oisonous ser- pent, pinch the skin, and, if the wound can lie reached, suck out all the liluod possible; if the skin of the lips and mouth is sound, no harm will be done. Whisk ?y or brandy should, however, be administered freely, to intoxication. Fainti)ig. — Debility of the nervous system favors fainting. The head should be kejvt low; aixl if tlie patient faints in a chair, the simplest treat- ment is to grasp the back of it and depress it until the floor is reached, while another holds the knees so as to jirevent slipping oft" the side. The patient will usually recover by the time the head has reached the floor. Shock from Cold Water. — Prostration from drinking or bathing in cold water while exhausted by heat or exercise should be treated as described for shock from other causes. Cold water should be taken in small fpiantities when the bodv is heated and exhausted, and a cold bath is often fatal under such circumstances. Epileptic Fit>s — In tliese tliere is nothing which a by-stander or friend can do, except to keep out of reach such articles as may injure the jiatient during the convulsive movements ; to loosen the clothing about the nei-k and throat, and to assist to some place of safety when the semi-consious state re- turns. Other convulsions are treated in the same manner. Liqhtning. — If the person shows no signs of life, strip and dash the bodj with cold water, dry and place in bed witli bottles of hot water at the pit of the stomach and extremities, keei)ing up artificial respiration until the nat- ural V)reathing is restored ; a tea-spoon of brandy in a table-sjioon of water- may be given every few minutes. Burns from lightning should lie treated like burns from any other cause. Breaking Through Ice. — In assisting persons who have rjroken through ice, get a long pole, or stick, or board, to distribute the weight over a greater surface of ice. In attempting to get out of water upon the ice, after having fallen in, the best way is to approach it sidewise, and roll out rather than to attempt to raise the body up by the arms alone, as the weight is more widelv distributed. ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. 1181 Hanging. — Death is from the same cause as in drowning. Cut down the body without allowing it to fall, place on face, press back tongue with finger to allow any accumulation to escape from the mouth, place on the back, and treat as directed for the drowned. If body is still warm after the removal of clothing, stand off six feet and dash several times with a bowl of cold water, the face, neck and chest. Foreign Body in Nostril. — Children often push foreign bodies up the nos- tril. To remove it, make the child draw a long breath, and then, closing the other nostril with the finger, and the mouth with the hand, expel the air from lungs by a sharp blow on the back. If it can not be removed in this way, compress the nostril above it to prevent its going back any further, and hook it out with the bent end of a wire or bodkin. If this fails, call a surgeon. Burning- Houses . — When a house is on fire, close all the doors and pre- vent currents of air. If the fire could be entirely shut in. it would smother and die out. The check will give time to get help, or, at least, to remove furniture and make all lives secure. If up-stairs when the stairway below is on fire, tear clothing to make cord to let yourself down by. If a room is full of smoke and fiame, crawl on the floor, as the lower air is the cooler and more free from smoke. Freezing. — Keep the frozen person or part away from the heat. If the person is insensible, take him to cool room, remove clothing, rub with snow or cloths wrung out of ice-water. The cold friction should be kei)t up ior some time ; and when the frozen parts show signs of life, the patient should be carefully dried and put into a cold bed in a cold room, and artificial res- piration used until the natural is restored; and then brandj^ beef-tea, and ginger-tea administered. The patient must be brought by degrees into the warmer air. Parts frozen should be treated by the same rule. Bites of Dogs — The onh' safe remedy in case of a bite from a dog su.s- pected of madness, is to burn out the wound thoroughly with a red-hot iron, or with lunar caustic, for fully eight seconds, so as to destroy the entire siir- face of the wound. Do this as soon as possible, for no time "is to be lost. Of course it wil be expected that the parts touched with the caustic will turn black. If, unfortunately, it should chance that any one is bitten by a dog that is said to be mad, it is worth while to chain the animal up, instead of shooting it instantly, for if it should turn out that it is not mad — and a false alarm is frequently raiset reached from the end, should l)e removed by scraping the nail thin, and cutting through it to the fureign body, and so witluhawiiig it; the part should tlien be tied with a cloth wet with water, in which a few drojts of laudanum have been mixed. A puncture, by a rusty nail or some such substance, of the finger, toe, hand, ur foot, frequently causes inflammation, and yet there is no room for the foreign matter left in the wound to escape through the tough skin, and lock-jaw results; in all such cases the wound should be cut open to provide a way of escape for the blood, etc., and a piece fo linen wet with laudanum inserted. Wounds from bruises and lacerations especially demand careful treatment, on the same genera! principles given above. Suffocation. — This often occurs from carbonic acid gas, or " choke-damp," on entering wells or old cellars ; this gas being heavier than air, fails and rests at the bottom. Before entering such places, test by lowering a lighted candle; if the flame is extinguished it is unsafe to enter until the gas has been removed, by throwing down a Ijundle of lighted shavings or blazing paper sufficient to cause a strong upward current When a person is overcome by this gas, he must l)e inunfdiateli/ rescued by another, who must be rapidly lowered and drawn out, as he must do all while holding his l>reath ; a large sack is sometimes thrown over person who goes to the rescue. As soon as brought out, place the person on his back, bare the neck and throat, loosen clothing and strip as (piiekly as jHissil>le ; if he has not fallen in the water, dash I'old water freely over head, neck, and shoulders, standing ofl" several feet and throwing it with fori'e ; artificial respiration should be used mean- time, as in case of drowning, with as little cessation as possible. If the person has fallen in the water when overcome by the gas, place in a warm bed, and use the means of artificial respiration. Suffocation from Ijurning charcoal, from anthracite or bituminous coal, or from common burning gas, or the foul gases from drains and cess-pools, is treated as if from carbonic acid.- Accidents in General. — The first and most important thing after sending for a surgeon, when an accident has occurred, is to keep otl" the crowd. No one, except one or two in charge, should be allowed nearei than ten feet; and the kindest thing a by-stander can do is to insist on such a sfiace. and to se- lect such persons as are williui; togofor whatever is needed by tiie surjfeon or Accidents and sudden sickness. 1183 physician, so that there may be no delay, if anything is needed. If there has been a " shock " from a fall or blow, although there may be no fracture or external injury, the person is " faint," and should be placed fiat on the back, with the head, neck, and shoulders slightly raised; the limbs should be straightened out, so that the heart may act as easily as possible ; the cravat, collar, and clotldng, if in the least tight, should be'loosened. A sup of cold water will bring reaction soon if the injury is slight ; a tea-spoon of brandy, in a table-spoon of water, every two minutes, gentle friction to the extremi- ties, a handkerchief wet with cologne-water held to the nostrils, a fan, if the weather is hot, will all aid in restoring full consciousness. If thought best to remove the patient to his residence, or to a more favorable place for treat- ment, place on a stretcher, settee, or shutter, slipping him on gently, taking care that the body is supported along its whole length ; throw a handkerchief over the face to prevent the unpleasant sensation of the staring crowd, and let the stretcher be borne by persons of uniform gait, if ])ossible. A police- man's services, if in a city, are invahuible in keeping off a crowd. When a surgeon arrives, his directions will suthce. Burns and Scalds. — First put tlie fire out, if the clothing is on tire, throw the person on the ground and wrap in carpet, rug, or your coat if nothing else is at hand. Begin wrapi)ing at the head and shoulders, and keep the tiames away from the neck and face, so as to prevent breathing the hot air and con- sequent injury to the lungs. If prostration and shock or fainting is produced, a little brandy, repeated often until there is a revival of strength, should be given. A superficial burn, covering a large surface is often more dangerous than a deeper one confined to less surface. If there is any cause for appre- hension that the hot air has been inhaled, send for a physician at once. If the burn is slight in character, api)ly the water-dressing, by placing two or more thicknesses of old linen (from table-cloth or sheet), slightly dampened over a surface a little larger than the wound ; fasten on by slips of sticking- plaster, or on with bandages, and keep it wet by frequent applications of water. "When the pain has moderated, a dressing of pure hog's-lard is one of the best. It may be purified, when doubtful, 1)oiling in water until the salt and impurities have settled, and then set away to cool until the floating lard hardens; this is gathered, placed in a bowl, set in hot water, and kept hot until all the water in the lard has passed off, when it is ready for use. The connnon soda used for cooking purposes may be emploved as a dressing. A thick layer should be spread over tin-" part and covered with a light wet bandage, keei)ing it moist and renewing it when necessary. A good dress- ing for a slight burn or scald is the white of an egg, aj)plied with a soft rag or brush, applying fresh as the first layer dries ; a lather of soap from a shav- iug-cnp often allayes pain, and keeps out the air. If so serious that a phy- sician has been sent for, it is better not to apply any thing, as it may intefere with his examination and treatment of the case. In cases too severe for the mild treatment given above, send at once for a physician. Drowning. — Death is caused by cutting off the supply of fresh air from the lungs, so that the process uf purification of the arterial blood ceases. Life is rarely restored after an immersion of five or six minutes, but recovery has been recorded after twenty minutes. Efforts to restore should be con- tinued for at least two hours, or until the arrival of a physician. What is done must be done quicUy. The body should be recovered without loss of time, from the water, and laid face downward for a moment, while the tongue is pressed back by the finger to allow the escape of water or any other sub- stance from the mouth or throat (no water can ever by any possibility get into the lungs). This may be done while the body is being conveyed to the nearest house ; on arrival, strip off clothing, place on a warm bed, with head raised very little, if any, apply friction with the dry hands to the extremities. 1184 ACCIDENTS AND SUDDEN SICKNESS. and heated fiannels to the rest of the body. Now breathing must be artifi- cially restored. "Silvester's ready method" is most favored by physicians, and consists in pulling the tongue well forward, to favor the passage of air to the lungs, and then drawing the arms away from the sides of the body, and upward, so that they meet over the head, and then bringing them down until the elbows almost meet over the "'pit of the stomach." Tiiese move- ments must be ma\\i in drawers or trunks will keep away mice. The Neck. — Too tight collars and neckerchiefs are apt to produce perma- nent swelling of the throat. Cocoa Butter. — Apply at night, to face and hands, and wash off in the morning. This is excellent for the skin, and keeps it soft and clear. To Clean Light Kids. — Put the glove on the hand, and rub thoroughly with white corn-meal, using a piece of cotton flannel. To keep Pearls Brilliant. — Keep in comnior, dry magnesia, instead of the cotton wool used in jewel cases, and they will never lose their briliancy. Tonic for the Hair. — Ounce best castor-oil, two ounces each of French brandy and bay rum ; scent rosemary and rose-geranium. To Cure Chilblains. — Soak feet for fifteen minutes in warm water, put on a pair of rubbers, without stockings, and go to bed, 1188 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. Cement for Jet. — Use shellac to join, then smoke the joints to make them black. Mother's Marks — should never be interfered with; except by the advice of a physician. Tetter or Ringworm — of the face is caused by a disordered stomach, and must be cured by proper diet. Pimples — are caused by improper diet, and can never be cured except by correcting the habits. Cosmetics (jnly injure. To Restore Color to Kid Shoes. — Mix a small quantity of good polish black- ing with the white of an egg. Hair Oil. — Two tea-spoons each of castor oil, ammonia and glycerine ; and alcohol enough to cut the oil, and put in a four-ounce bottle half full of rain-water. Shake before using. Black Heads. — To remove "black heads" in the face, j)lace over the black spot the hollow end of a watch key, and press firmly. This forces the foreign substance out, so that it may be brushed off and is a cure. To Keep off Mosquitoes. — Rub exposed parts with kerosene, or essence of peppermint. The odor is not noticed after a few minutes, and children es- l)ecially are much relieved by its use. Tlie Breath. — Nothing makes one so disagreeable to others as a bad breath. It is caused by bad teeth, diseased stomach, or disease of the nostrils. Neat- ness and care' of the health will prevent and cure it. The Skin and Complexion. — "Washing in cool, but not excessively cold, water, and general cleanliness, keeps skin healthy and complexion clear. Ivory Blacking for Shoes. — Four ounces ivory black, three ounces coarsest sugar, one table-spoon sweet-oil, one pint small beer; mix well together. Castor-oil for Shoes. — Take a teaspoon of it and rub in thoroughly by a fire. Do this when the shoes are new, and several times afterward'.-, and they will last twice as long. Dandruff. — One ounce flour of sulphur to one quart of water. Shake well at intervals, for a few hours, and, when settled, saturate the head with the clear liquid every morning. For Chapped Hands, Face and Lips. — Ten drops carbolic acid in one ounce glycerine ; apply freely at night. Pure mutton tallow is also excellent. Cologne Wafer. — Thirty drops each oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, oil of lemon, and orange-flower water, half pint deoderized alcohol. Cork and shake well, Corpulencii. — An excess of fat is a disease. To reduce the excess, eat lit- tle or no butter, fat meat, gravies, sugar, vegetables, or other articles con- taining large amounts of starch and sugar. Dandruff in the Hair. — There is no simpler nor better remedy for this vexacious appearance (caused by a dryness of the skin) than a wash of eam- plior and borax — an ounce of each put into a pint and a half of cold water, and afterwards rub a little pure oil into the scalp. Moth Patches — may be removed from the face by the fi)llowing remedy : Into a pint bottle of rum put a table-spoon of flour of sulphur. Apply thin to the patches once a day, and they will disappear in two or three week*. THB ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1189 Boston Burnett Powder for the Face. — Five cents worth of bay rum, five cents worth of magnesia sn'-w-flake, five cents worth of bergamot, five cents worth of oil of lemon ; mix in a pint bottle and fill up with rain-water. To Clean Jewelry. — Any gold jewelry that an immersion in water will not injure, can be beautifully cleaned by shaking it well in a bottle nearly full of warm soap-suds to which a little prepared chalk has been added, and after- wards rinsing it in clear, cold water, and wiping it on a towel. Brush Stand. — A toilet convenience is a white wire stand for hand and tooth brushes. It is so contrived that the brushes are kept in place and are always within easy and convenient reach. The stand is not expensive, and is ornamental as well as useful. Freckl-e Cure. — Take 2 oz. lemon juice, or half a dram of powdered borax, and one dram of sugar : mix together, and let them stand in a glass bottle for a few days, then rub on the face occasionally. Bloom of Youth. — Boil 1 ounce of Brazil wood in 3 pints of water for 15 minutes ; strain. Add % oz. isinglass, >^ oz. cochineal, 1 oz. alum, ^ oz. borax. Dissolve by heat, and strain. Cologne Water. — Oils of rosemary and lemon, Bru8h stand. of cach ^ OZ. ] olls of bergauiot and lavender, eachfg oz. ; oil cinnamon, 8 drops, oils of cloves and rose, each 15 drops; best deodorized alcohol, 2 qts. ; shake two or three times per day for a week. Food for the Hair.— This, if regularly used, will prevent hair turning grey. One part of alcohol to two parts of castor oil. Rub in once a week Avell about the roots. * Staijis on the Hands — from nitrate of silver, maybe removed by a solution of chloride of lime. Fruit stains are removed by washing the hands without soap, and holding them over the smoke of burning matches or sulphur. To Remove Sunburn. — Scrape a cake of brown Windsor soap to a powder, add one ounce each of eau de Cologne and lemon-juice ; mix well and forui into cakes. This removes tan, prevents hands from chapping, and makes the skin soft and white. Warts. — Wash with water saturated with common washing soda, and let dry without wiping ; repeat frequently until they disappear. Or pass a pin through the wart, and hold one end of it over the flame of a candle or lamp until the wart fires by the heat, aud it will disappear. Moles. — To remove, moisten a stick of nitrate of silver, touch the moles, and they will turn black and sore, and soon they will dry up and fall off of themselves. If they do not entirely go, repeat. It is better, however, never to attempt their removal without consulting a physician. Cold Cream for Chapped Lips. — One-half ounce spermaceti, twenty grains white wax, two ounces pure oil of sweet almonds, one ounce pure glycerine, six drops oil of rose ; melt first three ingredients together, and, when cooling, add the glycerine and oil of rose, stirring until cold. Yankee Shaving Soap. — Take 3 lbs. white bar soap ; 1 lb, Castile soap ; i ^uart rain water; ^ qt. beef's gall ; 1 gill spirits of turpentine. Cut the soap 1190 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. into thin slices, and boil five minutes after the soap is dissolved, stir while Ixiilinjr; scent with oil of rose or almonds. If wished to color it, use '^ oz. vermilion. Bad Breath. — Bad breath, from catarrh, foul stomach, or bad teeth, may be temporarily relieved by diluting a little bromo chlurulam with eiglit or teii parts water, and using as a gargle, and swallowing a few droi)s just before going out. A pint of bromo chloralum costs fifty cents, but a small vial full will last a long time. Fnu't Stains. — may be removed from the fingers in the following manner : Mix together half an ounce cream tartar and half an ounce of jiowdered salt of sorrel ; apply a solution of this to the fingers, and the stains will disappear. Diluted sulphuric acid may be used, but care should be taken that none of it touches any fabric, as the acid will destroy it. Flesh Worms. — Black specks on the nose disfigures the face. Remove by washing thoroughly in tepid water, rubbing with a towel, and applying with a soft IhuuiL'l a lotion made of three ounces of cologne and half an' ounce of liquor of potash. Or press out by putting the hollow end of a watch-key over each speck. Lips or Hands CJiapped by cold weather or wind, should be rubbeil with glycerine generally when about to be exposed to the air, or rubbed with honey after washing. >«'ever kiss the lips of persons not in health, as disease is sometimes contracted in this way, as well as by the use of towels, cups or tumblers used by unhealthj' persons. Bai/ Rum. — Ten cents worth of magnesia, two quarts each of soft water and alcohi'l, one ounce oil of buy. Dissolve magnesia in rain water, then add other ingredients. "Wrap filtered paper in form of a funnel, and filter carefully through into a bottle and cork tightly. When used, dilute with rain water to whatever strength desired. Leanness — Is caused generally by lack of power in the digestive organs to digest and assimilate the fat-producing elements of food. First restore digestion, take plenty of sleep, drink all tli^ stomach will bear in the morn- ing on rising, take moderate exercise in the open air, eat oat-meal, cracked wheat, Graham mush, baked sweet apples, roasted and broiled beef, culti- vate jolly people, and bathe daily. Superfluous Hairs. — Are best left alone. Shaving only increases the strength of the ha'r, and all dejjilatories are dangerous and sometimes dis- figure the face. The only sure plan is to spread on a piece of leather equal l)arts of gall^anum and pitch p'aster, lay it on the hair as smoothly as pos- sible, let it remain three or four minutes, then remove it with the hairs, root and branch. This is severe but effective. Kerosene will also remove them. If sore after using, rub on sweet oil. The Fare. — To wash properly, fill basin two-thirds full with fresh, soft water, dip face in the water and then the han, foggy weather, the reflection of the bright sunshine intense cold, dustv wind, reading on cars in motion, reading by gas or lamp- light when the light falls directly on the eyes, sitting before a glowing fire, wearing of glasses when not needed, wearing veils, and all indulgences that weaken the nervous system, injures the eyes. The most pleasing light for work is from a northern exposure. A shade that protects the eyes from the light that falls on paper,book or work is an advantage. The light should not (.•onie from different points, but that from behind the worker is best. A very weak or very bright light should be equally avoided. Diseases of the eye are often the result of general weakness, and in such cases local treatment has little effect. In fitting glasses to the eye great care should be taken to adjust the lens to the eye with accuracy. Crown glass is preferable to fiint on account of its superior hardness, its'entire want of color, and its non-de- composition of light. Scotch pebbles are unobjectionable except as to cost. Dress.— The first object of dress is protection of the body, second to en- hance and bring out its beauty. Dress which does not enhance the beauty of the wearer, or which attracts attention from the wearer to itself, is out of taste. To be in correct taste it must be "becoming," and in this sense dress- ins; is an art worthy of the attention and study of the most intellectual and acromplished woman. The beauty of dress, to a cultivated eye, does not lie in its money value, but in its perfection in detail and nerfect adaptation to the wearer and the occasion for which it is intended. Any simpleton in pet- ticoats, who has plenty of money, can order her clothes from Worth, in the latest Paris styles, but some quiet woman, with brains and taste, in simpler costume, will be sure to outshine her in "society." Low-necked dresses, draszging skirts, corsets and stays, paddings, heavy skirts which rest on tlu' hii)s,"hoavy veils, high-heeled boots and every other unphysiological abomination in dress, mars beauty and destroya health. THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1193 Brush and Comh-Rack. — A very neat white wire rack, for holding the hair-brush and comb, which usually lie in the way in the vicinity of the mirror, may now be had for a few cents, and is a great convenience for the toilet. Cheap Toilet Table. — When a wash stand can not be afFored. procure a large three-cor- nered piece of board, large enough to comfortably accommodate a wash bowl, pitcher, etc., and fasten it in a corner of the room where the light is good. Cover it suitably with colored cambric, tack on the edge a slightly full fiounoo of the same, long enough to reach the floor. Over this placeplaiu book mus- lin with box pleatings across the edge and along the bottom. The frame of the mirror over it may also be draped wifh book muslin. Neat paper boxes covered with fancy paper or zephyr work may be added for holding brushes, combs, etc. A neat drawer may easily be fitted under the board, and will be found convenient for many purposes. Freckles. — Grate horse-radish fine ; let it stand a few hours in buttermilk, then strain and use the wash night and morning. Or, squeeze the juice of a lemon into half a goblet of water and use the same way. Most of the reme- dies for freckles are poisonous, and can not be used with safety. Freckles indicate a defective digestion, and consists in deposits of some carbonaceous, or fatty matter beneath the skin. The diet should be of such a nature that bowels and kidneys, will do their duty. Daily bathing, with much friction, should not be neglected, and the Turkish bath taken occasionally, if con- venient. The juice of a lemon, in which there is as much sugar dissolved as the juice will hold in solution, is an excellent remedy for freckles. This should be applied with a camel's-hair brush several times daily, until they disappear. It must be understood that all acids are astringents in their nature, and their too frequent use is as injurious as many apparently more delt- t£rious cosmetics; for, by too frequent and violent contraction of the pores, they become overworked, and finally refuse to respond to the action of any application ; wrinkles result, and are generally ineradicable, except after a tedious dietetic and medical course of treatment. Teeth. — Cracking nuts, biting thread, eating hot food, especially bi-ead and pastry raised with soda, very cold drinks, alternate contact with cold and hot substances, highly seasoned food, alcoholic liquors and tobacco, metal tooth picks, and want of cleanliness, are injurious to teeth. After eating, the mouth should be rinsed with lukewarm water, and such pieces of food as are not thus washed away removed by a quill toothpick. Toothbrushes should be elastic and not too hard. Those with hairs not too close together are best and most durable. A brush that is too hard may be per- manently softened by dipping in hot water. Rub up and down as well as across the teeth. Teeth should be ofted examined by a competent dentist. A great many, while attentive to their teeth, do more injury than good by too much otficiousness, daily applying some dentrifrice, or tooth-powder, often impure and injurious, and rubbing them so hard as not only to injure the en- amel by excessive friction, but also to hurt the gums even more than by a tooth' ic. Tooth-powders advertised in newspapers are to-be suspected,'as same of them are not free from corrosive ingredients. Charcoal (which whitens the teeth very nicely), pumice-stone, cuttle-fish, and similar sub- stances, are unfit for use in tooth-powders, as all are to a certain extent in- soluble in the mouth, and are forced between the margin of the gums, form- ing a nucleus for a deposit. Below will be found a few good formulas for dentifrices : Three and one half pounds of creta preparata, one pound each 1194 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. of powdered borax, powdered orris-foot and white sugar, and two ounces cardamon seeds ; flavor with wintergreen, rose or jasmine. If color is desired, use one pound of rose-pink and as much less of crcta preparata. Tooth-pow- ers should be thoroughly triturated in a wedge-wood mortar and finely bolted. The following is a simple and cheap preparation, and pretty good. Take of prepared chalk and fine old Windsor soap pulverized well in proportion of about six parts of the former to one of the latter. Soap is a very beneficial ingredient of tooth-powder. The Hair. — Professor Erasmus "Wilson, of London, who is authority' on the subject, condemns the washing of hair ; but advises that it should be kept clean by brusliing, this being a more effective stimulant than water. In cases of ordinary fallin'g out of the hair, he prescribed the following: Liquid am- monia, almond oil, and chloroform, of each one jiart, diluted with five parts of alcohol or spirits of rosemary, which can be made fragrant by the addi- tion of a drachm of the essential c J of lemons. The head should undergo a thorough friction with the hairbrush, after which the lotion may be applied. It may be diluted, if necessary, and can be applied daily or otherwise. For removing scurf, he advises a lotion of borax and glycerino, two drachms of each to eight ounces of distilled water. This is cooling, and allays dryness of the skin. In cases of baldne-s, a lotion of the following can be used with effect : Camphor, ammonia, chloroform and aconite, in equal parts, to be rubbed on the bare place daily, or twice a day. A barber recommends ladies to have their hair shampooed once a month. This will bring out the natural luster, soften it, clear it of dust, and rob it of that musty smell which comes of having long hair wound up closely for any length of time. It will also remove that itching of the head which some ladies find so troublesome. For Complexion. — Blanch one-fourth pound best Jordan almonds, slip off the skin, mash in a mortar, and rub together with best white soap, for fifteen minutes, adding gradually one quart rose-water or clean, fresh rain-water, mav be used. When the mixture looks like milk, strain through fine muslin. Apply, after wasliing, with a soft rag. To whiten the skin, and remove freckles and tan, bathe three times a day in a preparation of three quarts water, one quart alcohol, two ounces cologne, and one of borax, in propor- tion of two tea-spoons mixture to two table-spoons soft water. Bathing the face in pure buttermilk, clear whey, sour milk, new or sweet milk, is soothing and healing after walking, riding' driving, rowing or sailing. Do not plunge the face into cold water, neither dash the water over the face when suffering from sunburn or exposure to wind or water ; the sudden shock is not only injurious to the whole system, but has been known to permanently deface the citmplexion by a species of tanning which left a brown or yellow tinge impos- sible to efface. Or use Qwen Bess Complrxion Wash. Put in a vial one drachm of benzoin gum in powder, one drachm nutmeg-oil, six drops of orange- blossom tea, or ap]>le-blossoms put inh ilf pint rain-water, and boiled down to one tea-spoonful and strained, one pint of sherry wine. Bathe the face morning and night ; will remove all fle.sh-worms and freckles, and give a beautiful complexion. Or, put one ounce of powdered gum of benzoin in pint of whiskey ; to use, put some in water \\\ wash-bowl till latter is milky, wash with it ; allowing it to dry without wiping. This is perfectly harmless. teetl The Hair. — Combs of tortoise-shell, bone or rubber, with not very sharp leuth should be used Sharp teeth injure the scalp and produce dandrufif. Two brushes, one hard, to clean the hair and scalp, and the other soft, to smooth and polish, are best. Clean brushes by rubbing them with bran, or wash with one part ammonia and two of water. Combing or brushing THE ARTS OP THE TOILET. 1195 should be done in the natural direction of the hair, and never against it. In tiie proper way it can not be brusiied too much. To keep the scalp clean wash ill tepid "water with a little pure soap in it, rinse in pure water, dry with towels, and then in the sun or by the fire. Oily hair maybe washed once a week, light hair less often, Some occupations require that it should bewashed much oftener. All preparations for the hair are more or less injurious. Healthy hair has enough oil of its own, and the application of foreign oil destroys its vitality. Preparations containing alcohol fade hair, and make it brittle. The only "time oil is admissable is after washing. The best prepar- ation is one partof glycerine to three of rose-water. Powders made of starch, when used, must be washed out of the hair to prevent injury. Those made of colored glass are very injurious, cutting and otherwise damaging the hair. At night, the hair should be loosened and left free. Night-caps are a relic of barbarism. Hair-dyes are very injurious, as they contain more orlesssugar of lead, nitrate of silver, and other ingredients, which atiect the brain, pro- duce paralysis, inflammation of the eyes, and impairment of sight. Gray hairs are an indication that the hair-producing organs are weakening. When found they should be cut down to the healthy part, and the head should be exposed as much as possible, except in the middle of the day, to the sun and air. When hair falls out, it indicates a disease of the scalp. To cure, dip the head twice a day in cold water and rub with a brush until a glow is pro- duced. In case the hair is too long to wet, brush until a glow is produced, and then rub into the roots a wash made of three drachms of pure glycerine and four ounces of lime-water. The Feet. — The largest pores in the body are located in the bottom of the feet. For this reason the feet should be frequently and thoroughly washed, and the stockings changed often. If great cleanliness is not observed, these great pores become absorbent, and the poisons given off are taken back into the system. The nails ought to be cut squarely. Blisters may be prevented by rubbing the feet after washing, with glycerine. Bunions are caused by wearing shoes too tight or too short. They are difficult to get rid of, but may be alleviated by wearing easy-fitting shoes, poulticing and putting a rubber ring around the spot. Corns, which are caused by continued pressure on the foot, may be prevented by wearing woolen stockings aiid shoes that fit well. They are known as hard and soft, but their difference is entirely owing to locality. If a corn is situated between the toes, where it is kept moist by perspiration, it is of the soft variety ; but, if located on the outside of the toe, where it could get no moisture, it would necessarily be hard. They are pro- duced by pressure or friction, and are simply a protective growth thrown out for the purpose of preventing the tissues being injured. They are sufficiently painful at ail times, but they are the most unbearable when an accumulation of pus takes place beneath them. The escape of this drop of ])us is prevented by the hardened and thickened outside, which must Ije poulticed or soaked in warm water, and then removed by a sharp pointed knife, The entire corn can be taken out with a little care and patient work, without drawing a drop Of blood. The application of caustics should be avoided in the treatment of corns, especially in old people, as fatal gangrenous inflammation may be the result. Temporary relief from a painful sore corn may readily be obtained by applying strong carblic acid. Take the cork out of a small bottle of car- bolic, and apply it (the cork) to the corn. Relief will come at once, and you will be enabled to walk with comparative comfort till you can find time to remove the corn with a knife. Hard corns may be treated as follows : Take a thick piece of soft leather or felt, cut a hole in the center. Upon going to bed at night, fill the hole in the center of the leather Avith a paste made of soda and soap ; wash it off in the morning, and repeat the process for several nights and the corn will be removed. Half a cranberry, or a piece of lemon, bound upon a corn will soon kill it. 1106 THE ARTS OF THE TOILET. Perfumeri/. — The following receipts are of choice perfumes, and are made by compounding the articles in each receipt, and then adding as much dis- tilled water as can be mixed, and 7iot have it become yyiilhy, Mhich will vary from two to eight ounces, according to the perfume ; then add deodoriaed alcohol until there are two quarts of perfumery : Essence Bouquet. — Four ounces extract musk, two of extract tube rose, one drachm otto rose virgin, and one-fourth drachm otto bergamot, one- half drachm each otto neroli super and red cedar wood, eight minims otto verbena (true), ten of bimento, three of patchouly, twelve of English laven- der; add water and alcohol as above. Jockoj Club. — Five ounces extract jasmine, twenty of extract orris, seven of extract musk, one and one-half extract vanlla, one and one-half drachms each of otto rose virgin and santal flor, two and one-half otto bergamot, and two of benzoic acid, forty minims otto neroli super ; water and alcohol as above. Patchouly. — Two drachms each otto pachouly and styrax, eight ounces each extract musk and orris, four of vanilla, and forty minims each santal ■flor and rose virgin ; water and alcohol as above. Wood Violet. — Twelve ounces extract orris, two of tube rose, and of jas- mine, four of musk, two drachms otto of bergamot, one of English lavender, ten minims verbena (true), twelve minims amygdala amar (any druggist will have it), six minims coriander, and four minims sweet flag, and one and a half drachm benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above. West End. — Twelve ounces of extract orris, four extract of jasmine, eight of extract musk, four of extract cassia, one of extract styrax, three drachms otto bergamot, one and one-half neroli super, and one each of otto rose vir- gin, red-cedar wood (true) and benzoic acid ; water and alcohol as above. Tube Pose. — Twenty-four ounces extract tube rose, four of musk, one of jasmine, one drachm otto rose virgin, two of benzoic acid, and ten minims t)t otto neroli super; water and alcohol as above. Stephenotis.— Four ounces each extract cassia and tube rose, eight each of musk and orris, two of jasmine, three of tonka, one drachm each otto rose virgin and benzoic acid, one-half drachm otto neroli super; water and alco- hol same as above. Rondeletia. — One ounce otto English lavender, two each of musk and vanilla, four of orris, half ounce each otto cloves and bergamot, two drachms otto rose geranium (Turkey), one of benzoic acid, twenty minims true otto cinnamon, ten minims otto rose virgin, one of santal flor) water and alcohol as above. New-Mown Hay. — Twenty-five ounces extract tonka, six of musk, eight of orris, one of vanilla, one drachm each extract styrax, bergamot and $antal flor, and one and a half of benzoic acid, fifteen minims otto neroli super, ten each of otto rose virgin, lavender (English) and patchouly, and six minims otto of cloves. Simple — Garden perfumes are charming in linen when put away in drawers. For the handkerchief the perfume, is more delicate, and niuch more desirable than the stronger odors so freely used. Always preserve the trimmings of rose-geraniums, in envelopes, for such purposes, and lay in plenty of sweet clover when in blossom. THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1197 THE FLO^WER- GhARDElST. By E. Rennie McGill. The culture of flowers is the most interesting occupation in the •world — a never-ending source of delight. Where else can we find for the body and mind a recreation so beautiful, so instructive, or that will afford more last- ing pleasure, than that of tending for the floral emblems of God's love? What would the world be without flowers? Thanks to the all- wise Creator we find them everywhere. On mountain top, in shady dell, midst towering rocks and along the banks of rippling brooks. They are as free as the air we breathe, and who shall say they do not teach of our Father's love, wis- dom and wondrous power ? Whose head but His could put this exquisite coloring into the Jacqueminot Rose, or design the curious petals of the Pas- sion flower? Beautiful objects as these are to the naked eye, how much more so do they become even under the simplest form of a microscope. We may take the keenest razor that can be obtained, place it under a microscope, and the edge will appear jagged, coarse and rough, and full of imperfections. Not so with Nature's handiwork, for the more critically it is examined, the more its hidden perfections surprise us, and we are forced to exclaim: "0 Lord ! how manifold are thy works ; in wisdom hast thou made them all. The culture of flowers teaches industry, patience and hope. No one ex- pects flowers to grow on hard, uncultivated ground ; hence we must spade it or plow it, then industriously weed it, or else our plants would soon be choked up. We sow the seeds in hope that they will spring and reward our care by producing beautiful flowers, and we must cultivate the virtue of patience be- cause some plants are great sluggards, while the tendency of men and things in this age is to be in a hurry. The industry with which this recreation haa been pursued, shows itself plainly in the great number of the highly im- proved plants which adorn the gardens of the present day in contrast to those 1198 THr: flower garden'. which were cultivated some fifty years ago. Take, for instance, the Pansy, a flower that is universally known and loved the world over. It is only a little more than half a century ago that the improvements began in this little tiower. A few years ago there were but few books or magazines jjublished devoted to flowers ; now there is hardly a periodical but that lias at least one or inure columns relating to the subject, while floricultural books, magazines and catalogues are scattered broadcast all over the land. Many of these are higlily embellished with beautiful engravings and colored plates which create a desire for possession of plants thus pictured. In this way the florist's business has assumed enormous proportions so that it is quite common to meet with a greenhouse in a town of very few hundred inhaliitants. It is a wholesome occupation. Ladies who fancied themselves so compU'tf ly broken down in health that they have wished for death, in several instances which have come under my observation have been induced to take a little exercise daily among the flowers. The desire to do something tular name is purposely given. All are easily cultivated for as a rule they will grow where anything will. Once in three years they should be divided and transplanted. Division shoukl be done either at the end of Summer or at the time of making garden in the Spring. ABOUT LILIES. All lilies should be moved in the fall, say October, and when they are to be grown in beds let these be about three feet wide and as long as you please. Put the lily bulbs in deep — not less than six inches — and keep a mulch or covering" of straw^ over them the first year. Old, half-decayed leaves from the woods is the verj^ best for the purpose, but when these can not be obtained straw will do very well. Lilies form two sets of roots ; the first start from the base of the bulbs shortly after planting and remain as long as there is life in the bulb. \Vhen the flower stem is formed another set of roots grows on top of the bulbs whereby the species is increased, for among these the young bulbs are found. Nearly all of the iiardy lilies thrive best in a cool, moist soil, one that does not become hard and drv in Summer. It is not necessary, however, to plant them in w'et, boggy soils, but a soil that is constantly moist is preferable to one that parts with all its moisture in time of drought. Some lilies do better in boxes than in the garden, particuly Auratnm, Candidnm and Brownii. The pot, box, or tub should be large enough to hold at least one peck of soil, which should be good garden soil, rather sandv. Set the bulb at least six inches below the surface of the soil, and press firmly with the hand. Give water enough to keep them from drying away — little while resting — plenty when grow'ing. Set anywhere until .severe cold weather, then remove to the cellar. If kept too warm, a si)indling growth will result. When mild weather comes bring them to the air and light. The so-called "Easter Lily" (L. Candidum) and Lily of Purity (L. Harrisii). the latter being an imi)rovement of the old L. Lnngiflorum, bear forcing, that is by a certain treatment are made to bloom outside of their natural season. These two varieties are most extensively grown by commer- cial florists to produce cut flowers for Easter. Mr. Peter Henderson, who probably stands at the head of the florist's profession in America, says that the method is to pot the Candidum bulbs in six-inch pots any time from September until the fore part of December, sinking the pot containing the t'arlv potted bulbs (Mit of doors in a sheltered warm spot, and covering with leaves as cold weather approadies, so they shall not get frozen at any timf». THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1201 Those that are potted later, say from the middle of November, should be plunged in the same waj' in a cool greenhouse or in a cold frame. This last is simply an ordinary hot-bed frame having a glass cover. When the pots are filled with roots, they may be Vjrought to a higher temperature, say 55° at night, and IC^' to 15° higher in the day-time. If the pots are well filled with roots, the bulbs will come into bloom from eight to ten weeks after being placed in that temperature. The treatment as giv^en will answer also for the Lily of Purity, except that it should first be put iij four-inch pots and remain there until the plant is three or four inches high. Then change to a six-inch putting the Ijall on the bottom, so that all or nearly all of the new soil is on top of the bulb. Soon after flowering this variety will show a disposition to rest, and it may remain in the pot or box until September. Then repot and treat as before, but after two years of this forcingthe bulb will have become exhausted that it will be advisable to plant it in the lily bed out-doors to recuperate. There are so many lilies in cultivation that the inexperienced are often unable to decide upon what they should purchase. Let such by way of a beginning get a bulb of each of these, Auratum. Candidum, Lancifolum- rubrum and album, Harrisii and double Tiger. When one has learn to grow these successfully then money may be invested in the more costly, but beau- tiful Brownii and the California lilies. HOLLAND BULBS. The person who would have a beautiful flower garden from the earliest days of returning spring, must procure and plant in the fall, some of the so- called Holland Bulbs. These consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, Cro- cuses, Snowdrops and others. The soil for bulbs should contain a liberal projjortion (jf sand — at least one third. In planting, always measure the depth from the top of the bulb. Small })ulbs and tubes, such as crocus, suDwdrop, Spanish iris, ranunculus and anemone, should be planted about two inches deep; tulips and narcissuses, three inches; hyacinths, four inches ; and crown imperials, five. The cost of these bulbs has been so greatly reduced in late years, that an almost nominal sum put into them will amply repay for the very slight labor that is required to l>ring them into bloom. Cover the buds thoroughly after the frost sets in, with four or six inches of old manure, hay, straw, or dry leaves. Plant the V)ulbs where they need not he disturlied for several years, especially the narcissuses and snow- drops. Hyacinths, crocuses and tulips should be taken up every third year. This shoulil be done after the bul])s ripen in the summer. What has been said will bring us up to the closing months of the year, a time when little or no further work can be done in the flower garden, so try head work during the winter. Make a definite plan of the arrangement of the beds for next summer, and the effects your projjosed combination are likely to produce. It is customary in the larger gardens to draw diagrams ot the flower beds upon paper, and color these with such tints as they will be likely to assume when in flower. Read up all good literature bearing on this subject ; decide upon what you want to purchase in the way of trees, shrubs, plants, bulbs or seeds ; make out your order early, and place it in the bands of some reliable person, for execution. Deal always with jM-incipals ; — no agents, — then if any thing turns out contrary to expectations ; a pleasant letter to the person or firm, from whom you purchased, will generally bring about a satisfactory settlement. SPRING FLOWERS. The advent of spring is usually announced by the bloom of the crocuses and snowdrops; indeed they are often seen pushing their pretty flowers 1202 THE FLOWER GARDEN. through the snow. As soon as may be after this, remove the litter which has lain upon the bulb beds, not all at once, lest a severe frost kill the tender shoots just peeping above the ground. Soon the other bulbs will appear, the narcissuses, the hyacinths, and the tulips will add their beauty and fragrance. While the bulbs are coraing rapidly forward into bloom, preparations for the garden which is to be the summer glory and autumn pride, may be attended to. We will assume that the seeds of annuals have been obtained ; let us take some of the more tender varieties and sow them in boxes in the house, so that they will be stout plants when wanted to set out in the open ground in May and .Tune. To fill out some of the beds, verbenas, jjansifs, phloxes stocks. j)etunias, and the various kinds of Japan pinks will be in order, and all of these can be much forwarded into early bloom by being sown in the house. Cigar boxes are very handy, but the bottom must first be per- forated, and broken pots or shells put in the bottom for drainage Then take good, rich earth and rub it through a sieve, or your lingers will answer, to take out all the lumps. Fill the boxes and then carefully sprinkle the seed over the surface of the soil ; sift on enough soil to cover the seed, sprinkle with water very gently, and then set in a rather dark place. If it is warm, the seed will start earlier. A pane of glass laid over, or even a sheet of oilerl paper, is a great help. If you can give them a warm place, the seeds will start sooner. We might here sugest the use of a Hot Bed, but tliis reijuires more care in construction and operation than an amateur can be supjiosed to bestow. This is the way to proceed, however; You take an old box, say aljout five or six feet long and three feet wide, and with an old window sash f(jr a covering, you have what gardeners call a Cold Frame. A hole the size of the box is dug two or three feet deep and tilled in with strawy manure which should be well tranijieled down until full. Put about six inches of soil over the manure, and on this set your box, carefully heaping the earth around the outside and put on the glass cover. In a few days the heat will be up, when the top must be opened some to allow the firey heat to escape. Tills done, put in the seed boxes. But whether you have a hot bed, or not, once the seeds are sown let them remain in partial darkness several days, for the seeds to swell, and keep the earth moist; if the seedlings get drv even once, they are ruined. As soon as you see them sprouting give light and air ; if not too cold; or else the seedlings will spindle and die. When the tiny little plants have four or more leaves ; transplant into small pots and there let them grow until wanted to set in the beds. To do this, tirst dig a hole and pour a little water into it, then turn the pot over, strike it a smart rap and the ball of earth will come out with the ])lant; place it in the hole and jtress the earth around it. Plants set out with 'oalls go right to growing, and seldom need any shading; but it is well to transplant in the evening or on a clear day. In the open air towards the last of April may be sown asters, 1 alsanis. candytuft, phlox, petunias, zinnias, cockscomb, larkspur ami indeed almost any of the hardy annuals. These mentioned will bear transplanting. Those who admire sweet peas should get the seed of the.se in the open ground as soon as it can be worked. Plant about three inches deep, and give brush for support. Then there is the Escholotz, a (California P<'PPy)> very showy, having a long tap root, and Mignonette, which, with the sweet peas, must be sown where they are to bloom, as they do not take kindly to transplanting. CLI.MBING VINES. Vines, while they are the most graceful of plants, are very easily culti- vated. The Maderia vine is one of the easiest grown, and a very rapid climber. In the spring put a tuber in the ground as you would a potato, and THE FLOWER GARDEN. 120o in a very short time it will cover a large space. Dig up the roots in fall and winter, same as potatoes in a cellar. For a most graceful climber and a rapid grower, as well as beautiful bell-shaped flowers ; there is nothing equal to the cobea. The seeds are very thin, almost flat, and require to be planted on their edges. Needs consid- erable heat to stai't the seed. Florists usually supply young plants for less than amateurs can raise them for. Being tender, the cobea must not be set out doors until the weather is quite warm. The cypress vine, both red and white, Avith their lovely foliage, are ver}- beautiful trained ujjou strings. I remember of a post with a bird-house on top. At the base the ground was spaded up in a circle some three feet across^ and cypress vine trained from *here japon strings to the alighting board of the bird-house. It was much admired. The seeds of the cypress vine, canna and other hard shelled kinds may be hastened in germination by soaking for 24 hours in warm water. Maurandia is a somewhat delicate vine that comes readily from seed. It does well on trellesis or even brush, such as given to support peas. A few maurandia seeds placed in a cow's horn, previously filled with soil, has given us a most beautiful living screen in the parlor window. Strings were woven backward and forward for it to run upon, and it has done well. Nasturtiums, — the tall growing kinds, are pretty grown upon strings or trellesis during summer. Gourds, with their curious and wonderful forms, are worthy of culti- vation. One of the most singular is what is called the "nest-egg", from the fact that the fruit makes an excellent substitute for the nest-egg in the poultry-house. The fruit is in sliape, size and color, as near as can be, a counterfeit egg. Tlie dipi^er gourd is made by cutting away the side of Her- cules club. The so-called sugar-trough variety is useful for many purposes. There are one or two other climbing vines which once grown are sure to become permanent favorites. These are the Balsam Apple and Pear and Bryonopsis Laciniata. The fruit of the latter is very attractive and the foilage as graceful as can Ije imagined. The vines that have been spoken of are all annuals, that is, the seed is sown from which plants spring u]), bloom, mature their seed and then die all in one season. There are a few vines whose roots are perennial, and which may be grown from seed sown in Autumn. One of these is the Alle- gheny Vine, or Mountain Fringe. It is quite common in the woods in East- ern States, but I have never seen it wild elsewhere. For beautiful featherly- like foliage' and gracefulness it has no equal. It stands our severe Iowa winters with impunity. The Everlasting Sweet Pea is another beautiful plant which grows to a wonderful size with age. Its flowers much resembles the ordinary Sweet Peas only that they are firmer, and, I think, more fragrant. For covering a wall there is nothing equal to a well-established Wisteria. It produces lovely purple flowers in great clusters which hang down like bunches of grapes. It has the disadvantage of being rather a slow grower, requiring from five to seven years to get thoroughly established. Those who can patiently wait, however, will be amply rewarded, for it is a most mag- nificent vine. The Trumpet Creeper and Honeysuckle are hardy as oaks, and are not excelled as vines to cover porches, outhouses, etc. BEDDING PLANTS. The plants that are chiefly used for this purpose are geraniums, coleus, verbenas, and roses. There are others which are admirably adapted, but are not near so popular as these I have named. The shapes of the beds may 1204 THE FLOWER GARDEN. be as previously given ; but while beds constructed after those plans are very lumdsome, I am more in favor of oblong beds, say ten or fifteen feet lung, and five or six feet wide. The center will aflford space for tall growing plants, while those of dwarf habit can be planted in the front. To my mind, the prettiest flower beds are those which have plenty of clean bright grass around them for a back-ground. Most people make it a rule to have some house plants in winter, and of these, geraniums, as a rule, will be found in the greatest proportion. When spring comes it is customary to plant them out of doors just as soon as the days begin to grow warm, and often many plants are lost because they were not sufficiently hardened to undergo the change of temperature from the house to the open air. A better plan is to wait until the nights are warm, and in a northern latitude, from the middle to the last of May is early enough to put them out of doors, and it is well even then to place them on a covered porch for a day or two. CoJeus, more popularly known as foliage plants, are in great demand for bedding. _ They are cultivated for the beautiful leaf markings, the flowers being insignificant. There are some hundreds of varieties, some differing as much in habit and color as day and night, while there are other sorts which require the practical eye of an expert to detect any difference. Heliotro[»es and Lantanas make excellent bedding plants. They bloom freely, are easily grown and need no particular attention. The Verbena is one of the most popular bedding plants in cultivation. It is grown readily from seed, and embraces nearly every shade of color in its flowers. They do best in a piece of new ground, such as can be cut out of a grass plot in front of the house, removing the sods and digging the ground thoroughly, One plant in ground so prepared will cover from three to five feet of space, The Pansy is a splendid bedding plant. It does best in a partially shaded situation. The north side of a house, for instance. For brilliancy in color and duration in bloom, nothing can equal Phlox Drummondi. The Candytuft, in mixture, Clarkia and Nemophila all look pretty each grown in a mass. This is done by sowing the seed where it is intended they should bloom. One of the most beautiful beds the writer possessed was composed of Balsams in many varieties. Another beautiful one was composed of Ger- mantown week stock. I have in mind a garden in New Jersey which was amass of flowers from early Spring until late Fall, and nearly all were what one calls herbaceous perennials. The roots of these live over winter and go on increasing with great rapidity. All the care needed is division of the roots once in two or three years. Of these, I have in mind a dozen or more varieties of PciMiies, Phloxes, Lychnis, Columbines, Canterbury Bells, and some others whose names I do not now reniember. The Sweet William and the China Pink were there, too, in great abundance. There is nothing which can impart a greater charm to the yard about the house, than a few well grown shrubs. They need not be many, and they need not be of expensive varieties. Some of the old kinds are still the best for general use. because they are quite as beautiful as the newer sorts and we know how to treat them so that there will be no experiment in undertaking their cultivation. The deutzias are all fine, so are the spireas and weige- lias. For places where a large bush is wanted, there are tlie lilacs, the mock orange, the hawthorns and viburnums. For trellesis, you can get nothing better than the hardy honeysuckle ; they will give flowerg all th« THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1205 season, both beautiful and fragrant. If you want the best effect from them, plant the red and white varieties together, and let the branches of the two mingle over the trellis. They are excellent plants for an arch over the gate or porch. The clematis is another hardy plant suitable for arbors, etc. SUMMER BLOOMING BULBS. A bulb is really an underground bud which contains within itself the leaves and flowers of the future plant. Further back we spoke of planting the Holland bulb as they are called. In the early spring aaother planting ol bulbs and tubers will give us beautiful flowers in summer. These have been much improved of late years and are very showy flowers which is all the recommendation we can give them, Still they have their admirers. Dry tubers can be had quite early in the spring and then are planted iu pots or boxes in the house or a hot bed, if it is to be had to start them. In May they may be planted out in the bed or border where they are to bloom. The tall growing kinds will require tying to sticks. The dwarf or pompone varieties are much in demand now-a-days. GLADIOLUS. These proauce nowers oi various colors and are well worthy of the very slight attention they require. They are nath'es of the Cape of Good Hope and are sometimes known as the "Corn Lily," By hybridization and culti- vation of the seedling there are thousands of distinct varieties and the cost is very slight, some florists selling them as low as 50 cents per dozen. The bulbs should be set in the ground as soon as the weather is settled, in good soil, that which will grow good corn or vegetables will answer. Put the bulbs in deep — about 6 inches for the larger ones, and the smaller ones propor- tionately less. In a short time they will throw up spikes which will grow two feet high and upwards and to prevent a sudden gust of wind from break- ing the spikes off, neat stakes should be provided and the spikes tied to them. When done blooming cut away the flower spikes — not the leaves and allow the bulb to ripen. It will be ready to dig when the leaves have turned dry and yellow. When dug it will be found there are at least two and often three bulbs in place of one planted, so rapidly do they increase. Keep in the house over winter in a dry state and plant out again the follow- ing spring. TUBEROSES . The best bulbs for flowering are those which are large and plump. Those which are wanted to bloom very early should be started in April or May in pots or boxes of earth set in a green house, hot-bed or even a warm room. In about four or five weeks later they may be put.in the garden, where they will usually bloom in August. But suppo'sing you, by some means, had no opportunity to start them in the manner suggested, proceed as follows : Prepare the ground by deep digging and apply old manure liberally, theii first having removed all the offsets which are clustered around the large bulbs plant the bulbs in rows twelve inches apart, and six inches apart in the rows, setting them three inches deep. Keep the ground at all times free from weeds, and well stirred up by the use of a hoe. After the first frost which usually occurs in October, the bulbs should be lifted and allowed to dry in the sun a day or two, being careful to protect from frost at night. Wuen thoroughly dried they should be cleaned, removing the leaves and 1206 THE FLOWER GARDEN. •<' allowing two or three inches of the stalk to remain ; then store in a warm closet until wanted for planting. The very small bulbs or offsets are planted like peas in rows one foot apart, six inches between every two bulbs in the row, and three or four inches deep. Cultivate the same as the full-grown bulbs, and these offsets with two years' cultivation will form bulbs of blooming size. CANNAS. To my mind these are the handsomest and most stately of all the summer bloomingbulbs. They are chiefly used as ornamental plants at the backs of borders on lawns. They grow readily from seeds, which are very hard, and should be soaked in tepid water before sowing. The most common way to get these plants, however, is to buy a tuber from a florist in the spring; l)o not j)Ut it out in the open ground until the weather has l)ecome warm — say the first of June. At that time make a hole about eighteen inches square, and put in a good supply of old manure, cover with an inch or two of soil, and on this place your canna tuber. If the weather is favorable by August, this tuber will have produced from four to six stalks, usually about six feet high, surmounted by lovely flowers. There are several varieties, and in nearly all of them both the foliage and the bloom is different. The roots are difficult to keej) over winter, but where one has a real warm room, dig up the roots after tirst frost and set in a warm place to evaporate the moisture. In the greenhouse we keep these In- the sides of the flues and even then loose some to rot. The seedlings usually bloom the second year. CALADIUM ESCULEXTUM. AVhere one wants a really odd plant, and one with most beautiful foliage, let them purchase a root of the above. In appearance it will remind you of a turnip, but one never knows the beauties that are hidden away in a dry bulb. Let us suppose it is May and your caladium has arrived. You want a good large hole dug, as much as three feet across the top, and about two feet deep; put about a foot of old manure in, then your bulb, and cover it, say six inches deep ; give it plenty of water at all times ; seemingly it can never get enough, and in a few weeks a stalk about a foot high will have grown, this will soon unfold and show you a leaf that from a fancied resem- blance to an elephant's ear, has caused this plant to be so named. I have grown these plants close by a wall so as to supply them abundantly with water and one year got a single leaf which measured thirty-three inches across. It bears a yellow flower, but very seldom produces one. In winter care is about the same as recommended for cannas. One more bulb is the summer blooming oxalis. For the border of a bed or a walk there is nothing so economical and beautiful. A hundred bulbs of these can be bought for ten cents, and these planted in a row about three inches apart, will by fall have increased to thousands. There are two varieties, Lasindria, the largest with a light green leaf, and a pretty pink upright flower, does not increase so rapidly as Dieppi which has dark foliage and a dwarf creeping habit. None of the summer bulbs will endure our northern winters. All must be dug up in fall, carefully dried, and kept free from frost until planting time comes again. THE FLOWER GARDEN. • 1207 Floral Hints. To Kill Earth-Worms. — Ten drops of carbolic acid in a pint of water, poured over earth in flower-pots will kill all earth-worms. Sure Shot for Rose Slugs. — Make a tea of tobacco-stems and a soap-suds of whale-oil or carbolic soap, mix and apply to the bush with a sprinkler, turning the bush so as to wet the under as well as the upper part of the leaves ; apply before the sun is up three or four times. Lily of the Valley. — Those who have this in their gardens may secure flowers of it in the house late in the winter by lifting a bunch late in full. Pack closely with earth in a box and leave out of doors till after frost, giving only a slight watering now and then. Bring into the house about holidays, place in a sunny window and the flowers willsoon develop. They then need an abundance of water. Freesia Refracta Alba. — Among new bulbs none have so quickly won their way to popularity as quickly as this. Its perfume is delicious, not ob- jectionable as ^re tuberoses. The flowers are a tube-shaped, pure white, with a yellow blotch on the lower petal. Plant the bulbs in fall in sandy soil and keep in the light, water and give little more until growth begins. When done blooming, withhold the water, and when the bulbs are ripe, store away in a dry place until next Fall. Chinese Primrose. — For a neat, flowering plant for the window, there is nothing better than this. It is not suitable for outdoors, but in a greenliouse or even in a window it will with proper management bloom the year round. Usually, however, the blooming period is in ^'inter and early spring. It needs a moderately warm place, quite near the glass, and good" drainage in the pots. If, as is generally the case, the plant grows top-heavy, it should have a few small sticks placed around to support it. It is raised from seed, and florists supply young plants quite reasonable. Floioer Pots. — Take common red clay flower pots, scrub them until all spots are removed and they are of one color. Then get a package of silhoutles and paste them not too thickly over the pot. Then give a coat of varnish. They are quite oinamental, and when suspended by a red cord they make a very nice hanging basket. In handsomely or even moderately well fuinished loom the plain red pots seem shabby. Ivies. — A successful cultivator of ivies feeds them with iron and cod-liver oil ; the iron in form of rusty nails, mixed into the earth. Another produced a luxurious growth by wateiing once a week with tobacco-water; making a tea of refuse tobacco-leaves and stems, or of coarse tobacco. The water f.om the washing of fresh beef or fish is also of great benefit to ivies. Moisten the leaves with a sponge wet in tea, or simply wash with tepid wate- ; as to have success with them they must be kept free from dust. Tea-leaves placed around ivies are good for them. To Keep Plants Witliout a Fire at Night. — Have made of wood or zinc a tray about four inches deep, with a handle on either end, water-tight — paint it outside and in, put in each corner a post as high as the tallest of your plants, and it is ready for use. Arrange your flower-pots in it, and fill be- tween them with sawdust ; this absorbs the moisture falling from the plants when you water them, and retains the warmth acquired during the day, keeping the temperature of the roots even. When you retire at night spread over the pots a blanket or shawl, and there is no danger of freezing. The tray may be placed on a stand or table and easily moved about. 1208 ' THE FLOWER GARDEN. Crab Cactus — This is one of the nicest plants for winter bloom. It is easily raised from the slip and requires but little waterinfnl until the dirt has made the licpiid quite dark, then rinse in a clean cu])ful This last may be pUt away in a close bottle to use for soaking the next pair that is to be cleaned. Now pull them straight and rub with a sofl handkerchief until dry. Place over them thin, soft white paper and iron them, hard with an iron not hot enough to draw them. This puts a ])olish on them and makes them look like new. If too large they may be shrunk a little by using a hotter iron. Now place them in a towel and lay near the stove for two or three hours to remove all smell of benzine, and then place in the glove box with sachets of vit)let between them. It is an excellent plan, when one glove of a pair has unfortunately been lost, to preserve the odd one to mend with. It is not usual to patchy gloves, but it often happens that a misfit can be remedied by inserting a V shaped piece in the palm ; for this and other contingencies a supply of odd gloves often proves valuable. DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 1217 One of the most important things is economy in the manner in wkich money is spent for work. Many an over tasked woman, feeling it impossible to accomplish all her sewing without assistance, will employ a dressmaker to make and make over dresses, and herself wrestle with the weary, never ending accumulation of plain family sewing and repairing which could be done by cheap help. This is not good management, for professional skill is always expensive to procure, and the price paid for making one dress would be enough to hire a large amount of plain sewing done. Cutting and fitting dresses is not difficult with good patterns at command, and there is no reason why any one should hesitate to undertake her own dressmaking. It is an art one soon acquires and becomes very expert in after a little practice. Let a woman leel herself capable of making a dress fairly well, and what a vista of possibilities opens before her. Old garments that are not worth spending a penny upon can be put to good use if the owner knows how to fashion them herself. It is commendable to work over old clothes, and make them look as new and stylish as taste and industry can contrive. iSTever be contented with a simply decent old dress ; but, if you cannot affijrd a new one, take the time to make the old one tasteful and as near the fashion as can be. Perhaps some one will say you are foolish to spend time and strength on old material, but judge for yourself if it is not judiciously spent when it brings as a result a costume which gives you that comfortable feel- ing of self-respect that a pretty and becoming dress does not fail to confer upon the wearer. Even the most show\' fashions of the present time favor remodeling and making over dresses. Two or three materials still enter into the composition of street and house dresses, and the greatest liberty of taste is allowed in the shape of overskirts and the modes of trimming. Basques, round waists, jackets and polonaises, all are seen upon new dresses. No one style seems to reign in any department of dress cutting, which is a great blessing to those who make their new dresses out of old ones. An- other point which is of especial advantage to those who have real genius and skill in making over dresses is the fancy for individual nov-elties in costume. Ladies of fashion boast of having designed a dress which is unique and un- likely to meet its counterpart. Dressmakers rack their brains to invent styles which they can assure favorite patrons shall be repeated upon no other dress. If abandoned garments, for which there is no immediate use in any form were always wholly, or partially taken apart and laid away carefully, in- stead of being tucked away at random, they would make a better appear- ance when their opportunity for usefulness occurs. In these days of mixtures and combinations there are few things which cannot be made serviceable as trimmings or to assist in composing some of the costumes expert economists make up out of odds and ends ; everything of the sort in a family should be saved with a view to usefulness in the future. There should be a receptacle in garret or store-room where large and small pieces may quietly bide their time out of every one's way. It is quixe a treat to visit such a receptacle when the dressmaking time of each season draws near, and look over its resources. Many hidden and forgotten bun- dles will come to light, and be greeted as so much saving of money. Some old breadths may make a sham skirt to build a new dress upon, another fragment will perhaps make a facing or waist lining. A great deal of money is spent for such minor details of a dress, which might be saved and spent in a more showy manner, if strict attention were paid to treasuring up old possessions. Every thing of the kind should not only be savedbut put away in good order. If an qld dress is abandoned, do not hang it up in its worn out condition, but rip it all to pieces, clean the breadths, for if they are worth using at all, they are worth cleaning, and fold them neatly, Select all the best portions of other parts of the dress and serve in the same way. 1218 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. It is very disheartening to find material in a dirty condition when the occa- sion conies to use it, and if it is needed in a hurry, the chances arc that snnu-- tliing new will have to be bought to tak^ its place. The best parts of old cotton underclothes may be dyed with family dyv, and used for linings fur dresses and children's clothes. For waist linings cotton cloth had better hi' left undyed. "White Imings are n(jt in the least objeetile where corset covers are woi'n ; on the contrary, they are the choice of many dressmakers. In altering over old black silk dresses do not use a hot iron on them ; sponge the pieces with a sponge dipped in clear cofiee, and then fold and lav away under a pressure as heavy as possible. The silk will come out looking almost like new. An independent polonaise, for wearing with different skirts, is not an ar- ticle of dress much advised now by dressmakers, because a certain uniform- ity is considered desirable in dress, but economical people can not afford to give up tlie useful garment which creates such a pleasing variety in a slender wardrobe. A black cashmere polonaise, for instance, oreven a grav flannel one, can be worn over several skirts, and thus supply street and house costumes at little cost. Black is hands me, lady-like and irreproachable; and she who is not the fortunate po.ssessor of one good black dress is really worthy of pitv. The black dresses of to-day are frequently gay with colored trimniings, "and tlie Persian cashmeres and brocades that in decoration really light them up won- derfully well ; l)ut if the purse allows but one nice dress, that one should, bv all means, l>e all lilack, and depend for illumination upon the little acces- sories of libbons, lichus, etc., which will make it more or less dressy as re- quired. Every woman who cares for appearances — and every one should do that — ought, if she can possibly afford it. to own a good black silk dress. Alpaca is good ; cashmere is better; other black materials are very satisfac- tory ; but nothing gives one such a comfortable feeling of self-respect as black silk. Silk is still very cheap, and fancy makes particularly so. It wou'^d cost a good deal to get a really rich plain black silk, for such a dress re- quires to be richer than one with a stripe, dot, or figure, and will also need richer trimmings. Better no silk than a poor, flimsy, plain one, which soon turns shabby and Vjetrays the purchaser's trust. One will find black silk to be the most economical dress for the best dress, and with it one does not need any other, lighting it up as above directed, when wearing in evening, or on dress occasions. Besides this, a pretty cashmere or novelty suit for street wear and a dress or two for home wear gives a suflicient wardrobe. As they wear, take the s: Ik for secoud best, supplying a new one, and in this way one may always have all that is necessary and yet not have so many dresses to become out of fashion. The one-suit iilea is fast gaining ground and wisely so, as one can thus be V)etter clothed, and in later style and at less exj)ense than v>here a dozen difforcHt best tlresses are hung in the closet, worn only now and then, thus making it too expensive to have a new suit very often. Patience and practice work miracles in tlressmaking, and the amateur will, in cultivating both, learn to study her own figure and bring out its good points in a way that no professor of the art will Jx- likely to do. INTELLIGENT SHOPPIXO. There are a few things that every shopper ought to know. She should, for one thing, know exactly how much money it is proper or expedient to si)end for a certain article. Of course she is not obliged to expend the entire sum, if she has the good fortune to find what sha wants at a lower price, but the limit V)eiii,e ma- terial is bought at a reliable place, the dealer will be willing to point out the difference between the mixed and unmixed worsted material, but (the for- mer not always being easy to find) irresponsible persons will sometimes at- tenii)t to palm off the latter upon the inexperienced. A jacket or sacque like the dress can be wadded and lined, and, if neatly made after a stylish i>at- tern, wiU complete a walking costume that any lady might be- willing to wear. Such a suit in dark gray, or "pei)per and salt," made with emigrant skirt bordered with three or'tive rows of black braid, and easy fitting coat of the same, similarly trimmed, will be more stylish, and command more re- si)ect for the wearer than a half-worn silk or cashmere whose trimmings show stains of travel and dust, whose draperies have the dejected look com- mon to loui,' worn ornamentation. It is not to be supposed that the econom- ist must never take advantage of a special bargain ; but she must be wary, lest she is dazzled by cheapness ami temi)tod into buying something that she could have gone without, and saved the money for a better use. The habit of making a list, every season, of the things obsolutely needed, with their probable cost, will assisl.an economical shopper very much in making her purchases, and dispose her to shun showy so-called bargains, unless1;he sees one that will supply some item set down in her list, or can be profitably substituted for something therein. Even then she should use verv deliberate judgment, and carefully refrain from buying in haste to re- gret at leisure. . . .,,,,...„.. I^Ierchants in cities are, atcertam times, in the habit ot ottering, as bar- wain's the fraL'ments of the last season's stock to clear them out before new goods' are exlfibited. These bargains are sold (very often) for anything that fhevwill bring. Experienced economists find their golden opportunity, and rarely fail to take advantage of its coming. Remnants of summer goods are to be found often at a quarter of the price asked for them on their first ap- pearance, and, with a little taste and a clever knack at securing an imitation of some of the many fashions of the day, it is an easy tiling to efiect an in- <.'enious arrangement of a few yards of new goods upon an old dress that will rielude the public into the belief that the whole costume is as new as it is elcant. Tlie point having been thoroughly settled, that close following of ijas'siu" styles is incompatible with systematic economy, the woman of small imans^iill not hesitate to make her dollar do double duty l)y sju-nding it for Koine of these kept-over goods without troubling herself with anxious doubts •md fears lest they should not be in the latest of the ruling modes. Her choice anions them, if her taste and judgment are good, will be those that are quiet anltES8 MAriK# AT HOMX. 1221 standard goods that are never obsolete ; but because each season brings its own trivial variation in the shade of color, and thickness of a twill, or some such unimportant feature, the infinitesimal change depreciates, in the eyes of large dealers, the materials of last year. Narrow stripes, fine checks and small dots, are all unremarkable, and, not coming within the range of arbi- trary fashions, are never out of date, and no one need ever be ashamed of wearing them. Prints, calicoes, ginghams, and all the great varieties of the Erevious year's supply of cotton goods, are generally to be found among the argains shown at such times ; and there is no better opportunity for laying in a stock for children's summer dresses, or for their mothers and older" sis- ters. Always make up cotton dresses without lining. They can be washed and ironed easily, and look almost as well as new after each time of laun- drying. With a waist lining there is apt to be a shrinkage and drawing out of place in either the lining or the outside that hinders the iron from doing its work nicely. For those who have to do actual hard work, such as wash- ing, scrubbing, etc., it may be well, now that the material is so much thin- ner than of old to make dark calico working dresses with waist linings of unbleached muslin to help to resist the strain prodnced by constant motion of the arms ; but for ordinary housework a loosely-fitting unlined waist with simply a stay or facing under the arms, is quite strong enough. It would also be sufficiently so for the hardest work if people were in the habit of making the calicoes worn for such use, simply with a skirt and half-fitting saque. Many ladies make the calico skirts of working dresses of straight breadths and no gores in order that, when partially worn out, the front may be turned around to the back, thus bringing stronger breadths into the place of those which are thin and faded. The gathers are ripped from the waist- band and the skirt turned upside down. After a new lease of life has in this W' ay been secured to the skirt, there should be some way of renovating the upper portion, perhaps new sleeves, and, possibly, a renewal of the lower portions of the front if the waist is in saque form The most economical and convenient time for making common dresses is at a season when more elaborate dresses are not in preparation. For cali- coes and ginghams it will be safe to select any of the simpler styles of walk- ing dresses. Plain percale and small checked ginghams combine w^ell, and make very pretty combinations may be made with calicoes and prints. A very practical little English wnrk on economy recommends keeping a little table of the widths of diflfei.^^. materials and the respective quantities re- quired for the ordinary garments used in the family for convenience in shop- ping CUTTING. In cutting goods, economy of material is a consideration never to be lost sight of. Make a close calculation before using the scissors at all, and do not cut any part out until you have discovered the very best way of using the cloth to advantage. It will pay one to be very deliberate and take no step without due consideration. Of course, professional hands become so entirely familiar with their occupation that it does not demand much thought, but beginners will do well to ponder and plan and calculate closely the very best and most economical way in getting a garment out of a given quantity of cloth. Large patterns are desirable for dresses and some other things, but for most garments just enough is the best quantity to have. The extra half yard, or whatever portion is found to be in excess of the right length, is often useless, and with cloth, or other costly material, adds provokingly to the expense of a cloak, sacque, or whatever the garment may be. People who economize Very rigidly sometimes argue that buying paper patterns adds too much to the cost of garments to be prudent purchases ; but 1222 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. that seems like faulty reasoning in most cases, for the time, strength and labor spent in experimenting, to say nothing of the eventual possible wasting of material, would more than cowr the cost of the model. It is an excellent idea lor two or three friends to unite and purchase paper patterns t gether, dividing the expense between them, andselecungmeaium sizes, which would be readily adai)ted to their difierent degrees of slenderness or breadth. If the dress is being iriade by a pers n of no experience, it will be well to cut the pattern out of old material, baste it together and try it on ; this not so mucli to correct pustible defects in the pattern as to guard against the mis- takes of inexperience, though even these need not be made if accurate care is used in following the patterns. In regard to cutting-uut to the best advantage, imagine that the reader of this, having, fortunately for herself, finished making her own clothes, is about to make a polonaise for her small daughter or sister. Let her select the pat- tern she wishes, and if it is a new one, cut a facsimile of it in old cloth, baste together and try on, making any slight alteration in waist or shoulder seams that m:iy be needed. Then let her ascertain the width of the material decided on, andcalcuhite as nearly as possible the quantity needed — say it is three yards and a half of twenty-seven inch goods. With a piece of chalk let her mark off upon the carpet a section of that length and width, and lay the dif- ferentparts of tliej)a tern within its limits, turning and replacing them again and again till they are assuredly arranged to the best possible advantage, and the whole garment made to absorb the smallest amount of cloth that is prac- ticable. Of course the idea must be kept in view of a right and wrong side to the cloth, or an up-and-down to the figure, if there is one, but a little study and thought, afler the pieces are placed, will correct any mistake of that kind. Then it is well, before taking up the pattern and brushing the chalk-line from the carpet, to make a rough sketch or outline of the position it occupied upon the floor, and not trust altogether to memory to re-arrange it upon cloth. AH this performance seems rather formidable, but if a beginner will take the trouble to go through with it for a few times, she will find it like learning a trade, and a little experience will make her so thoroughly mistress of it that she will no longer need to be subject to such preliminari' s, but will, almost by intuition, lay the pieces of the pattern to the best advantage, and acquire the very desirable accomplishment of cutting well and economically. To pos- sess such an art one should be willing to take a little trouble and make some exertion. In cutting a dress leave the sleeves and trimming till the last, then parings of gores and other pieces can be used up. Don't be afrafd of piecing. The sleeves should be whole, if possible, upon the upper parts, but the under parts may be made of patchwork, if necessary, especially where the upper part is wide. Even where both parts are of equal width care, ingenuity, and a little practice, make it possible to use up very small pieces when material is scant. The waist also may be pieced more than an ordinary dressmaker, whose time is money, can afford ; but if you make your own dresses you can sometimes get one "out of a surprisingly scant pattern, if you are patient and ingenious about pie(.-ing. The fronts may be faced instead of hemmed, and narrow pieces may be put under the arms without being noticed. If necessary, in a basque or polonaise, all the parts may be joined at the waist. In making over a dress quite short pieces may be used to advantage in this way. It is also possible, win n sorely driven by necessity, to jnece the fronts from the armsize across, and craftily cover the seam by arranging the trimming to represent a. square neck. Not more than an inch, if any, of the seam need be visible between the trimming and the armsize, and that will hardly be observed. In cutting a basque or waist from an untried pattern, cut the lining first baste it up and try it on ; then, if any trilling alterations are necessary, tliej' can be made, and the goods cut according to the improvements. Cut it as t)RESS MAKING AT HOME. 1223 long as the basque is to be, but if it is for a polonaise or redingote, it need be only five or six inches below the waistline. Soft twilled muslin makes the best lining ; that which is stiff and unpliable is very objectionable, as it is not only hard to fit, but soon stretches out of shape and leaves the dress goods over it without proper support. Dark linings, even for dark dresses, are now less in use than light. White is much used by dressmakers, but it soils too easily to altogether unobjectionable. The best color is a pearl, or a very light gray. For calico dresses, even for winter, the waist lining should always be white, as in washing, the color of a dark lining will run into and cloud the colors of the calico. Both lining and outside of the waist should 1)6 cut the straight way of the cloth, and the seams and darts must be creased on the lining exactly by the pattern, which must be pinned evenly upon it. Lay the lining upon the length of the goods, being very particular to have it, perfectly straight, and arrange the different pieces in a manner to save as much cloth as possible. If saving is a great object, facings can be sewed on the edges of both fronts, and no hems turned. By moving the the pieces about it will be easy, where there is no up and d^wn, to get the side pieces out between some of the larger parts. In basting the pieces to- gether, after they are secured to the lining, be verv particular to match them as the paper pattern indicates, following the creases exactly. To se- sure greater precision, it is best to mark the creases with a lead pencil. One can not be too particular about these darts, as they have much to do with the fit of the dress. Having basted the side-bodies evenly to the back, tack the fronts and back together upon the shoulders and under the anns, the darts having been previously basted up by the marks on the pattern. Try on the waist, and if it is right, sew up the seams on the sewing machine and work the button hole. Before cutting these (if the goods ravel very easily) outline each one by a row of machine stitching, leaving only room to cut the button-hole between the lines of stitching, and, in working it, take the stitches deep enough to cover the line, the sambas when it is run around bj' hand. If it does not fit, the amateur dressmaker need not fall into despair, for, probably a judicious taking in of the seams will make it all right. If the dress is for a person with some ])eculiarities of figure it will be necessary to study that in fitting; if, for instance, the waist is very tapering, the seams will have to be more deeply sloped than the paper pattern, being cut for the average figure, will indicate. If the person being fitted has a hollowing back, a plait or dart laid in the middle of the back of the lining will secure a better fit. Long seams in the back extending to the shoulder, are more becoming to stout people than side bodies ending at the armsize. If the shoulders project, an allowance can be made by leaving the back longer than the sides If one shoulder is more prominent that the other, the defect should be skill- fully disguised by putting a layer of cotton upon the other side, so that the difference need not be noticed. If the arms are very thin, a sheet of cotton may be put between the outside and the lining of the upper part, Many dressmakers follow this plan, whenever the arm is not too large to admit of it, to secure a well-fitting sleeve, the short shoulders now worn to dresses requiring some adroitness in putting them in nicely, unless the material is thick like velvet, or is made so by wadding. The next step in making the dress is to finish the sleeves. They should be slipped on the arm while the waist is on, and pinned to the shoulders. Very much depends upon the fit of the sleeves, and, even if cut from the best of patterns, they may wrinkle and set awry unless put inio the armhole properly. The latter must not be too tight or cut out too much in the back. After a basque or polonaise is finished, it should have a strong belt sewed to the back and side seams, upon the inside, to fasten the front, for 1224 DRESS MAKING AT HOMl. the double purpose of keeping the ^aist in place and relieving the strain upon the buttons. Putting a garment together when it is carefully cut is a much easier task than when tlie separate pieces are not accurate, and require much measur- ing and triunning before they can be nicely adjusted toeach other. If lining is put into either a part or the whole of an article it must be tacked upoa the back of the })ieces before they are basted together. Care must be taken in halting not to stretch the seams out of shape. In making up cloth, the seams, after being stitched upon a sewing machine, should be laid ui)on and pressed down 1\ith a heavy hot iron. Each raw edge may then be bound with a narrow ribbon or galloon. This will give a neat finish to the wrong side and keep the threads from raveling. In very thick cloth the seams, af- ter pressing, should have a galloon laid over them, and hemmed down slightly, not letting the stitches show upon the right side ; or. with a cloth with a shaggy face, the seam may be sewed up and finished at the back with a wide fell, which must be pressed fiat. Thin materials, such as mohairs, grenadines etc., if made up without lining, are most neatly finished if the pieces are stitched together on the right side and then turned and sewed again upon tlie wrong side. This keeps the garment in better shape than the usual running and felling. The next thing on the programme after putting on whalebone casings, is to face the bottom of the basque. It is then ready for the trimmimg, which can be put on in accordance with the taste of the designer. Many ladies wear adjustable waist trimmings. A bias band of the material, for instance, with both edges trimmed with gimp or tiny side-plaitingg, which goes around the neck and meets or crosses in front, half-way between the throat and belt. This is left off at pleasure, to make room for a dainty fichu of mull or colored silk, or for a becoming little shoulder cape of beads. These very expensive-looking little adjuncts to a dressy toilet can be made at home by ladies who have any leisure to spend in fancy work. Almost every young person has some middle-aged friend who will teach her how to make the bead fringes which, in former days, decorated the square ends of crotcheted silk purses. Those fringes were made of fine steel beads, and the netted beading done with an ordinary sewing needle. The beads now used are cut-jets of a much larger size, and three rows of the fringe are set upon a lace foundation, or even sewed together over a paper pattern, without other froundation than- a row of gimp between each fringe, which is concealed by the falling strands of beads. Trimmings for the tabliers o^ rich dresses are made in a similar manner by some ladies, who also imitate with their own ingenious fingers the gorgeous seventy-five and fifty-dollar fabrics which are sold in modest quantities for trimming. In cutting a dress from plaid goods if the check is at all conspicuous, it must be arranged with care, or very ugly efTects will be produced, on the Avaist, particularly, the plaids should match exactly where tlie fronts meet In cutting out goods that are striped, have a whole stripe appear in the center of the front, and have the side-forms in the back present a perfectly matched appearance. The same attention should be paid to the sleeves, having a care as in all materials, that the parts above the elbows run with the thread length- ways of the cloth. If the sleeve pattern is too short, lengthen it equally at both ends; unless this is observed, the set of it will be changed. A round skirt is easily made with an old, well-fitting skirt, on a paper pat- tern as a guide. The straight side of each gore must be towards the front. The seam in the front is not to be endured, and one in the back is to be avoided, if possible, upon any skirt which is not to be worn beneath a polonaise or overskirt ; but for aii overskirt all things are possible in the way of piecings and joinings. In making a trained or demi-trained skirt, if it should appear scantv and' hoop in the back, maks a «ut la th« sdg* d»«p anough to r©ii«v» / BltWSS MAKING AT HOME?\ 1225 it, and set in a V-shaped gore, which may be concealed by tne trimming, or cut shorter slits upon each side and set in gores. Machine stitching is used upon dresses and trimmings. Even cai=;nmere and silk ruffles are hemmed on the machine instead of being lal5oriously blind- stitched, although the latter mode is is not out of date with those who do not mind trouble. It is now acknowledged by the best dressmakers that nothing equals coarse alpaca or brilliantine for a skirt facing. Nearly every color can be matched in it, and it looks well, wears well and sheds the dirt admirably. Braid is now usually not felled down as formerly. About a third of its width is allowed to project befow the skirt, which is thought to hang better than when bound with the braid. It should be sewed on by hand after the dress is finished, not set in between the facing and outside, as is sometimes done. When it becomes ragged it is a simple matter to rip it off and put on a fresh one. Or, a new and very pretty way is to top-pleat the braid in small pleats and sew it just inside bottom of skirt, thus forming a little trimming as well as a protection and doing away with any other "loot pleating. " It takes three bolts of braid for an ordinary walking dress. RENOVATING. If the silk is very dirty, spread each breadth on a large table, and sponge it upon both sides with warm water mixed with ox gall. — Rinse the silk several times in clear cold water, changing the water each time. Then sponge it upon the wrong side with a very weak solution of glue. Try the experiment first on a scrap of the goods till you find it as stiff as new silk should be. Dry the eilk, and then roll it up in a damp towel and after two or three hours, iron it upon the wrong side with a moderately hot iron. Black, and some dark shades of cashmere, may be cleaned by the same process. Where a black silk has a shiny, greasy look, its freshness can fre- quently be restored by sponging it with ammonia without ripping up the dress. AVhere a silk of any color becomes more defaced with spots than actually soiled, the spots can be removed by rubbing them with a mixture made by putting half an ounce of camphor and an ounce of borax in boiling water, and adding to it when cool a teacup of alcohol and half that quantity of ammonia. A favorite way of cleaning and restoring silk, is by sponging it with a preparation made by boiling a large, unpeeled potato and a kid glove to- gether for a long time. The glove should be of the color of the silk, and if the shade is very light, the potato must have the sVin removed before boil- ing. After the mixture is cool add a small quantity of ammonia if the silk is very dirty. No glue or gum will be needed, as the glove furnishes the proper degree of stiffening. After sponging, and wiping with a dry cloth, fold the silk in as nearly as possible the form of new silk, or roll it upon a rod covered with thick cloth. Avoid ironing it if possible, as the texture of the silk is better preserved without the application of heat ; but if the wrinkles do not disappear, press it on the wrong side with as cool an iron as can be efficiently used. The glove and potato treatment is excellent for restoring black of all kinds, even veils and shawls. Another way of cleaning black silk is first to thoroughly brush and wipe with a cloth, then lay flat on a board or table and sponge well with hot coffee thoroughly freed from sediment by being strained through muslin. Sponge on the side intended to show, allow to become partially dry and then iron on the wrong side. The coffee removes every particle of giease and restores the brilliancy of silk without imparting to it either the shiny appearance or crackly and papery stiffness obtained by beer, or indeed, any other liquid. 1226 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. The silk re.illy appears thickened by the process, and this good effect is per- manent. The following method of cZ^'annrgf s?7A:s has many advocates, and is said to be admirably adapted for delicate evening shades : To quarter of a j)ound of soft soap put atea-poouful of sugar and a large cofTeecupful of alcohol. Wet the silk all over with tlie mixture, then rinse it in several waters, being careful not to crease it. Let it dry partially, and iron it upon the wrong side, unless it is suiooth enough after rubbing with a soft towel. There is a great difl'erence in silks in this respect. Some that are very soft and of rich quality willljo smooth and unwrinkled after cleaning, if simply smootheieces and sleeves for the jacket. In tailoring work it is necessary to maintain a rigid adherence to the pattern. Where two pieces are to be joined, and one is longer than the other, it 1232 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. will never do to snip oft' the extra length, as some careless people do, but the longest side must be held in in sewing till the extra fullness is taken up. In putting the collar on the jacket, care must be observed not to stretch or pull it out of shai)e ; it should also be held full enough to turn over easily and the seam should be pressed in the manner mentioned above. If possi- ble, a jacket that has been made by a tailor should be made the model of iniitation in making one at home, and, till experience has made the details familiar, it should be referred to in putting in pockets, setting in sleeves, and at every step of the way. Small pantaloons are readily cut from larger ones, and even when the latter are seriously impaired, it is still i)ossi})le to make good new ones out oTthem. If the back is in holes, the thin parts can be replaced by long gore- shaped pieces, such as are seen in arit.y i)antaloons, and a pattern for boys, SDmetimes caller! the "cadet pants," can be procured, if such a device is needful. In cutting the fronts, try not to have the exact spot come on the knees that came tiiere before, but have it aliove or below, as it will not only wear out faster, Init bulge out in an unsightly fashion. If the cloth is thin and loosely woven, or has had already a great deal of wear, it will be well to line the little pantaloons throughout'. The fly should be lined with strong drilling interlined with canvas to give sufficient supi)ort to tiie button-holes. Short knee-V)reeches are much easier to make than long ones, and take such a small quantity of material that two pairs can be cut from one pair of ordi- nary-sized men's pants ; but of course, after a certain age, all the king's hor- ses and all the king's men would be a force insufficient to compel a little bo.v to give up his inalienable right to have his trousers as long as his father's ; and happy the mother whose young son does not insist on spring bottoms, for that is a touch very ditficult of attainment to any but an export. In order- ing a pantaloon pattern, it is less important to give the age of the boy than the length of his leg (measured upon the outside seam), as height varies much in similar ages. The Ulster is a form to be recommended for the over- coat, where new cloth is used, because it is so long and large that the material can be made into other garments when its original form is outgrown. In making underwear for the little ones, the best "nightie" is that called the Perfect Night Dress. It is waist and drawers cut together with feet. They are thus i)erfectly protected even if the covers do come off" The gar- ments can be of flannel, canton flannel or muslin. It is a great aid to the little folks if their chemiloon's waists are made open in front as they can then niore easily learn to dress and undress themselves. There is not any reason why this should not be done, only that ojiening in the back has been the way and we are rather slow in leaving the heathen past. The night-dress must ojjcn in the back to allow for the flap which buttons up in the back. ELDERLY LADIES. "Young people sometimes feel that it makes little difference how mothers and graufhnothers dress as long as they themselves can make as fair a show as the family circumstances allow — a mistake which is unjust and prejudi- cial to all parties. It is a disgraceful, and in a great measure, a purely American notion, happily banished now from large cities, but still hanging about the country, that a young lady, even if her parents are not rich, must be gaily, and as far as i)ossible richh' clothed, and be able to show soft jeweled hands as white as tlie piano keys she touches deftly or otherwise, as the case may be, while mamma spends her overworked time in the meanest of clothes, and by reason of shabbiness is seldom seen by her daughter's friends, or by anj- one else except at church. Too often it is conscience rather than choice that takes her there, where the comfort of the the service is swallowed in the consciousness of the utter forlorness and awkwardness of DRESS MAKING AT HOME. 128S her appearance in obselete dress and antiquated mantilla that were bought long before the daughters grew up to monopolize what little comfort and luxury life in narrow circumstances can give. The mother who allows her- self to be set aside in this way, and brings up her daughters to feel that hers is the secondary place to theirs, fails dismally in her duty to them and reaps her reward in the want of respect rendered to her. But if the mother of a family is herself to blame for the want of nicety in her dress, the same can not always be said of the grandmother, whose failing strength takes her par- tially out of the active cares of life, and Avho ought to be the object of tender consideration from every one in the household ; and it should be every one's care to have her comfortable and well-dressed — an object of pride, a "sort of show-piece, instead of a poor, pushed-aside, forlorn object, to be kept out of sight. Some clever writer says that a highly-presentable and well-appointed grandmother in a famih' is a patent of respectability. There is no arbitrary dictum requiring certain things, but custom re- stricts them to a narrow choice of color — brown, purple, blacky and gray be- ing the only ones allowed. Artistically considered, brown should be' also excluded, on account of its unbecomingness to the dull tints of hair, eyes, and complexion. The ideal dress for an old lady — and one maj' as well know what the ideal is, even if there is but small hope of investing it in the real — is severely plain velvet, with soft tulle handkerchieffolded across the breast, rich lace ruffles at the wrist to shade the withered hands, and a decorous cap, which makes no attempt to be a head-dress, but has protecting strings of lace of ribbon to tie loosely under the chin. We can not all dress our dear old grandmothers thus grandly and picturesquely, but we can make them comfortable, and fashion their clothes as tastefully as our means will allow, remembering that the love of pretty things to wear begins with a wo- man's life and generally lasts as long as she does — perhaps she is never too old to be gratified with a pretty cap or dress. A black silk dress is not always a possible thing for an old lady, but if, by any economy the purchase can be made, it is a wise one, for it will last any length of time as a best dress, and be such a comfort to the owner as to repay any sacrifice incurred when it was bought. It should be made very plainly. If the lady is very stout, and likes the style, it can be made a close fitting' Gabrielle or princesse, but the usual style 'is preferable. The wai.st should fit comfortably, and, imless the wearer has delicate lungs, may be cut with the neck open down to the waist, and filled in with a lace or lawn handkerchief. An over-skirt is not too youthful, if not long and entirely unlooped, but many old ladies prefer single-skirted dresses. In that case the breadths are l)Ut little gored ; the one in front may be shaped like an apron, and the others left straight and sewed upon the waistband in large plaits, except right in the center of the back, where they may be shirred for a short distance, to the depth of an inch or two. The botto'm ^f the dress may be left plain, or may be bound with velvet instead of the usual braid, or may be trimmed with one or more wide flat bands or folds of the silk. The sleeves may be trimmed at the hand to correspond with the finish on the skirt ; and if the waist is not open as suggested, a small square collar trim- med in the same way can be added. If circumstances do not allow the silk, black cashmere is certainly the next choice, and will be verv handsome made up in the same way. I*- can be made to look richer by edging the folds and bias pieces with milliner's folds or narrow pipings of s'ilk. Failing the cashmere, black alpaca of the best quality that can be afforded is the be.st substitute. Silk pipings are not so pretty upon this material, but their place may be taken by galloon, or the skirt may be set ofi" by two groups, three or four in each, of narrow double folds of alpaca. A comfortable and welcome fashion for old ladies, which was perhaps sug- gested by the rage for fichus of all kinds, is a shoulder cape, in shape like a 1234 DRESS MAKING AT HOME. Sontag, except that the fronts fasten like a dress ^vith buttons, instead of being crossed. This is made of black silk, quilted in tiny diamonds over a single thickness of wadding, and edged with a double cord, or with a very narrow black lace plaited on. It can be worn with any dress, and is becom- ing so much adopted by old ladies in the East that they frequently have cloth or crocheted capes of the same made to wear in change with the more dresssy one. Circulars are frequently mentioned in fashion journals as being well adapted to old ladies, but tliey are really far from being the best shape for their wraps, as, having no sleeves, they drag heavily from the neck, and be- come very tiresome. A better style is a loose-fittingdouble-breasted sacque, rather long, but not enough so to be heavy and bunlensome. Caps and bonnets are delicate points, and the old lady whose means are too straightened to allow her to call professional skill to' her aid (and even that is not always equal to the occasion) is fortunate if she has a friendly relative with taste and capacity enough to undertake the critical task, which, to be successful, should be really a labor of love. The cap should be pure white, and the bonnets black. A well-defined border or ruche of white is pretty and becoming, but an indefinite mingling of black and white in either cap or bonnet is unbecoming. Small bonnets are out of the question for old ladies who need a shape that will amply protect the head, aned backward and salt sifted over the granules as before. The cover is then screwed on and the churn revolved very aJowly for 20 or 30 times ; it is then let stand for one hour that salt may be completely dissolved. The churn is then tipped backward and forward, not revolved, till the butter is in a roll, when it is pressed into a 00 lb. ash tub. When the tub is brim full, a butter cloth is spread smoothly over it and a thin layer of salt sifted over it and the cover fastened down with sta- ples, and sent to market as soon as possible. 1256 MISCELLANEOUS. Weather Strips. — It is often desirable to close the crevices of doors and windows with weather strips. There is now made, and kept for sale at all rubber stores, a strip which is well represented in the ongravinj.', Jialf an inch wide, ready for tacking t() the edges of door or sash. It is made of a narrow rnbber sheet, curved over to make a cushion, and sewed to a thin strip of tin. Through the tin strip tacks are driven two or tiiree inches apart, fastening the strip to the edge of a door or sash, and the elastic cushion eCfectually shuts out the air, while not inter- fering with the use of either door or window. It is sold in lengtlis of twenty- five to fifty feet, coiled as shown in right hand cut. and is sent by mail post- paid anywhere at about five and a half cents a foot. Pleruy of fresh air is necessary to health, but it is well to be able to control the currents and take them when and where they are wanted. To Soften Sponges. — A sponge when first purchased is frequently hard, stiff and gritty. To soften it and dislodge the particles of sea-sand from its crevices, having first soaked and squeezed it through several cold waiters, put the sponge into a clean tin sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and boil it a quar- ter of an hour. Then take it out into a bowl of cold water, and K(|uecze it well. Wasli out the sauce-pan, and return the sponge to it, filling up with clean, cold water, and Woil it another quarter of an hour. Repeat the pro- cess, giving it three boils in fresh water, or more than three if you finoint that, from the very lieginiiing of the disease, the saliva of the animal is a deadly poison. His cart'sses are as dangerous as his bite. If the saliva of the animal comes in «-.ontact with any broken place on the skin, death may result to the victim. Symptoms of hydrophobia : 1 . In the outward appearance : the dog becomes saout an inch from the end, gives a fuller shape to hold the water. The tub, when not in use, can be folded and set away out of sight. A pil- low put in the tub makes a comfortable and portable crib. From Babyhood. A Ilondy Soap-boiler. — For such farmers wives as do not have an out house containing a portable boiler or a kettle set in brick or stone, the contri- vance illustrated here is a good one. The hole in the rail is just wide enough to admit the piece on the top of po.st, but is three or four inches long, so that when the kettle is swung off the lire there will be play enough to lower the kettle to the ground, without wrenching the post. Tiip Prairie Farmer first suggested this plan. MISCELLANEOUS. 1261 Hanging Shelves.— The side pieces ot this hanging cupboard are fastened to tlie joints of the cellar. The rest of the plan is fully explained by the cut. It is very convenient for many uses and is out of the way of cats, rats and mice, and if put up where passers are not likely to strike their heads against it, is a desirable addi- tion to the cellar equipment. It may be made any size. The American AgrieuUurist has credit for its sug- gestion. Protection for the Lav. — The lap- pad described below is very little trouble, and will serve to protect one's dress from the soiling which is inev- itable when holding Baby in the lap giSi>^wirlT:(fci^«xf»iBil3iiiSp'^ very long, especially while traveling.: Take two pieces of muslin or Mar- 1_^ eeilles, each one-half yard square ; '^^ put together with a layer of cotton- *p wadding between. Turn in the edges '^ alj around and baste between the (? pieces an edging of embroidery ; sfitch M twice around on the machine. Quilt ',J the pad in diamonds, or any fancy '.3y pattern. From Babyhood. Castle Salve. — Boil ten cents worth of tobacco and pint of cider together '% for fifteen minutes in anew tin vessel ; fl strain, and add to liquid fourth pound \^ each butter, lard, beeswax and resin !.^f and wine glass whiskey. Boil slowly till liquid is ail evaporated. Put away in tin box and use as a salve for all burns. It is a perfect cure for the most severe cases and gives quick relief. Has been tried often in very severe cases. Apply like any salve. Whiting mixed with water and applied to a burn is also very efiicacous. Curing Meals. — Always buy granulated saltpeter for use in curing meats. It costs no more, and is dissolved more easily. After hams, shoulders, etc. are smoked, pack in barrels of common salt. This is clean and a perfect pro- tection against insects and vermin, and does not increase the saltness of the meat as might be supposed. The salt may be used again and again for this purpose, or for making brine for meat. INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1263 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. It will help those who consult this book to remember that the recipes of each department in Cookery, as well as the departments themselves, are ar- ranj Bacon. Boiled 521 Breakfast 521 Broiled 521 Fried 521 Pudding .522 Roly Poly 522 Balls. Butter 714 Force Meat 837-84!) German H49 Italian 19G 12G4 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Pop-corn 141 bA.NANAS 807,321 And cream 322 Baked 322 Fried 32a Pie 614 And apple pie 614 Bannocks 3ti Basket. .Vftcaroon HO Orange HI Bash. Boiled 171 When in season 917 Bavarian CreaM. Almond lis Blackberry 116 Chocolate 115 Coffee 116 Lemon 115 Orange 115 Peach lis Pear 116 Pine-apple 116 Pi.stachio 115 Quantity of ...110 Raspberry 116 Strawberry 116 Vanilla 115 Beans. Boston Baked 85G Butter 85G Canned 158 Castle 85C French .Style 856 In brine 877 Lima, dry 856 Patties 871 .Shelled 856 String 856 String, dried ...878, 880 When in season 917 Bed of Vegetables... 468 Beek. A la mode 472 Boiled 463 Boiled corned 482 Bouilli 404 Braised 464 Braised, brisket of.. 464 Brai ed, fillet of 465 Braised, roll of ... .465 Canuelou 469 Collared 483 CoUops 471 Curried 465 Fillet of 473 Kricandeau of 475 Frizzled with eggs .. 484 In jelly 475 Larded, fillet of 474 Loaf 469, 5.32 Molded 4.59 Olives 532 Palates 492 Potted 465 Pot-roast of 462, 476 Pounded 465 Pressed 465 Ragout of 476 Roast 462,465,468 Roast, rump 467 Roast, German 407 Boast, French 467 Page. Roast, with pudding 468 RoUeU 468 Stew 470 Stewed with tomat's 471 Stuffed brisket of .. ..4H4 StulVedspicid 10:59 Vhen in season 917 Yankee Dried. 484 Beefsteak. Broiled 476 Fried 477 Hamburg 479 Hidden 479 Italian 509 Marinade for 477 Oyster 480 Pie 481 Pudding 481 Smothered in onions 47« Stuffed 480 To serve 477, 478 With oysters 478 Beets. Baked 857 (jreeiis 8.57 Marbled 857 Pickled 857 Pudding 857 Beruiks. Candied S42 Canned ... 151 Frosted 334 Bills of Fare. Christmas Dinner .. .906 For Spring 880-893 For Summer 893-899 For Fall 899-905 For Winter.. 882-886 905,906 Fruits in 882 How to use. 881 New Year's Dinner .882 New Year's lunch for callers 907 Refreshments for twenty 907 Refreshments for one hundred 907 Refreshments for one hundred and seventy-five 907 Thanksgiving Din- ner 904 Birds. Fire for 851 How to pluck 350 Time to roast 351 To broil 850 To fry 352 To lard 459 To roast 851 Wild flavor of 352 Biscuit 36 Baking Powder 35 Buttermilk 87 Cream 87 Fairy 87 Hard tea 37 High 37 Maple 87 Potato 88 Rve 88 Soda 35,38 Spoon 38 Page. Stale 35 Tea 38 To bake 34 To glaze 34 To make 34 Unleavened 38 Blanc-.VIangk Ill Chocolate 112 Farina 113 Fruit 751 Green 112 Pink 112 Plain 112 Raspberry 113 Rice 113 Sago 113 Vanilla 113 Yellow 112 Blackberries 322 Canned lf)2 Dried 344, 34.'i Spiced . 667 \\hen in s ason 917 Bioatek, potted 271 Blue Fish, season for 917 Blueberries, Frosted 338 Frozen 334 Bouillon. ' Plain '8S0 Philadelphia 830 True 830 Brains. And tongue. , .540 Calf's b39 Fritters 539 Scrambled 539 Stewed .539 To single blanch . . . 1048 To double blanch.. 1048 Brant, season for 917 Brawn . 518, 1045 Bream, season for 917 Broccoli 857 When in season 917 Broma 210 Brussels Sprouts. 857, 860 Bread 21 Apple 21 And floor 1005 Bea:» 21 Box 17 Cooler 20 Coffee 39 Crumbs, to dry 299 Double 299 Double-egg 299 Easter 39 Fire for 17 Flour for 8 For oven 992 Forefathers' 31 Borders 979 Good, to make 11 Hop Yeast 22 In summer 20 In winter 26 Knife 17 Making made easy .. .26 Measures for 11 Oven for 14 Pan for 17 Poor Man's 22 Proof box for 14 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1265 Page. Quick 27 Raised once 23 Raised twice 24 Raised three times. ..25 Ready for oven 13 Rye 33 Rve and Indian 32 Rye with soda .. 32 Halt Rising 28 Scotch 98 Set to rise 12 Single 299 Sour 13 Southern Egg 50 Sweet Potato 29 To bake 14 To cool 16 To knead 11 To mix 11 To renew 995 Tosalt 13 To test 15 Vienna 83 With buttermilk 21 With compressed yeast 26 With potatoes 23 With potato sponge ..22 When hard 16 Brown Bread 30 Boston 29 Eastern 29 Steamed 19 Tin form for 29 With baking powder ..30 With mush 30 Buns 39 Currant 39 Hot Cross 39 Bubble and Squeak. .571 Butter. Apple — 731 Anchovy 1053 Clarified 64,460 Drawn 179 Egg 732 For decorating 980 French 612 Kennebec 7% Lemon 63 Lobster 179 Maitre d'hotel 557 Orange 635 Paris 796 Parsley 179 Peach 732 Pieplant 434 Plum 732 Pumpkin 732 Quince 732 Quince and apple. ..732 Scotch , 132 Tomato 733 Buttermilk, Iced 215 Cabbage. Boiled 858 Creamed 858 Delicate 858 Fried 858 Heidelberg 859 Pudding 859 Royal 858 Southern 859 Spiced 859 Page. Stuffed 8.59 When in season 917 Cacao 208 Making 209 Nibs 210 Shells 210 Cafe au lait 213 Fiothed 213 Cake. Almond 69 Angel 70 Apple 39,70 Black 71 Boston 612 Box 16 Breakfast 39 Bread 71 Bride's 71 Buckeye 72 Butter for 62 Caramel 72 Carolina 72 Charlotte Cachee 72 Cheap 73 Chocolate 64, 73 ('hocolate marble 73 Cincinnati...^ 73 Cinnamon 40 Citron 71, 73,82 Cocoanut 69,73 Creaming 735 Currants for 65 Delicate 64, 74 Eggless 74 Eggs for 62 Election 74 Everlasting 74 Feather 75 Fig 75 Fig, choice 75 Fig, marbled ... . 75 Fruit, excellent 76 Fruit, German 76 Fruit, jam 76 Fruit, loaf 75 Fruit, pan for 66 Fruit, pepper 76 Fruit, pound 77 Fruit, Scotch 77 Groom's 77 Hard Money 77 Haves 77 Hickorynut....69, 77, 78 Huckleberry 78 Lady's 78 Lady's Yellow 78 Lemou 78 Loaf 78 Loaf, French 78 Loaf, old fashioned . . 78 Making 61 Marble 79 Marble, economical.. 64 Milk for 62 Mold for 68 One Egg 79 Orange 79 Orange butter for — 636 Oven for 67" Paddle for 61 Paper cap for 66 Peanut 80 Plum 79 Poor man's 80 Page. Pound, Citron 80 Pound, pyramid 80 Pound, white 80 Raisins for 65 Rice 80 Seed 71 Snow 80 Spice 81 Sponge 68,81 Sponge, lemon 81 Sponge, pan ; 81 Sponge, Phila 82 Sponge, white 64,82 Temperance 65 Ten-minnte 82 Tilden 82 Tin-wedding 82 To beat eggs for 61 To beat 62 To mix 62 To mix fruit 65 To test 68 Watermelon 82 Where to keep 68 White 82 White perfection 83 Whipped Cream 83 Yeast, German 83 Yule 83 Zephyr 83 Zufolos 84 Cakes, Layer. Almond . 85 Almond Cream 85 Apple 85 Apple, German 85 Banana 85 Caramel 87 Chocolate 87 Chocolate, delicious ..87 Chocolate filling 87 Chocolate German. ..87 Chocolate Eclairs 88 Cocoanut 88, 95 Cream 88 Cream cocoanut 94 Cream, French 88 Cream, golden 89 Cream, peach 89 Cream rose 94 Cream sponge 94 Cream, strawberry.. .89 Cream, Vienna, 89 Cream, whipped 89 Dominoes- 89 Eggless jelly 90 Fig 90 Filling for 84 Hard Times 90 Hickory Nut 90 Ice Cream 91 Jelly Roll ... 91 Ijcmon 91 Lemon Filling for 92 Met opolitan 92 Minnehaha 92 Neapolitau 93 Orange 93 O range custard 93 Ribbon 94 Snow 94 Tea 40 Tins • 84 Thanksgiving ©4 1266 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. To bake 84 To build 84 Tocut 84 Vanits' 9'> Velvet 9o With maple frosting 86 White Fruit 95 White Moiintaiu 95 Xeiiophon 9,n4 Fancy form for lOS Filling for 107 Mold for 107 Cheese , l.'^2 Apple 7:'l American ixi Cakes 186. 6:J7 Course 185 Page. Cottage 191 Crusts 1S6 Cream 191 Diablotin.s Itw Enulifih 18;! Fingers .187 Fondu 4 ...187 Fritters 188 Omelet 188 Potato 192 Pounded 192 Pudding 188 Puffs 188 Quality of 183 Hamakins 193 Rclis 1 188 Sandwiches 189 Souffle 189 Soup 189 Stews 189 Toasted 192 Toasted, with eggs . .19a To keep 184 To ripen .. 184 To serve 184, 185 To toast 195 Vol-au-venis 195 With celery .. 190 With crackers 190 With eggs 1t Ground, sweet 307 Paste 348 Sauce 32:J Tapioca »17 When in season 427 Chestnut.s. Season for 917 Stewed 338 Chicken. And macaroni 815 Baked 696 Baked, Buckeye. 696 Baked with parsnips 6% Boiled .... 697, 714 Braised 4&1 Breaded 697 Broiled 698 Creoled 699 Chili colorad 711 Croquettes 794 Curried 704 Cutlets 704 Cutlets, French.. . 7ft> Cutlets, larded 705 Es.sence 705 Fillets 70f> Fillets, breaded 705 Fillets, braised 705 Fillets, fried 70* F'ricassee 706 Fried spring 6!W Fried whole 699 Gems 707 In icllv 699 .Teliied" 6'.t» Jellied, plain 69!) Larded 702 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1267 Page. Livers with bacon.. 711 Masked 700 Patties 700 Pie 707 Pickled 701 Pot-pie 708 Potted 701 Pres-ed 701 Pudding 709 Quenelles 710 Roast 701 Roast, French 70iJ Roast, pot 365 Scalloped 702 Smothered 720 Steamed 70;j Stewed 70o To bone 1050 To cut up 1049 Truffled 704 Trussed 1050 Turnovers 710 Vanity 710 With asparagus 711 With oysters 702, 707 With potatoes 707 With rice 698,714 Chocolate. Making 209 Meringued 210 Vienna 211 Whipped 211 Whipped cream 211 When in season 917 Chub, season for 917 CiDEK 216 Bottled 216 Mulled 216 Citron, candied 342 Clam. Boiled 799,800 Chowder 798 Fried 798 Pie 799 Scalloped 808 Stew 799 When in season 917 Cobbler. Apple 637 Berry 637 Cherry 637 Peach 637 Plum 637 COCOANUT 309,339 Cones 188 Patties 133 Puflfs ...339 To dry 339 To prepare 69,132 Cod. Boiled 271 Sounds 273 Sounds with force- meat 272 Cod Fish. A la mode 273 And eggs 273 Balls 155 Cream 274 Fritters 273 Mountain 274 Masked 274 Scalloped 273 Clove of Gaelic 643 Page. Coffee. Army 210 Black 211 Clear 211 Crust 212 Filtered •. 202 Filtered, home made 203 For one hundred 213 For twenty 214 Iced 204,212 Iced crust 212 Imperial 212 Making 199,200,201 Steamed 212 Strainer 202 Syrup 214,999 To buy 197 To grind 199 To heat 201 To roast 198 Vienna 212 Warmed over 212 Wine 2V.i White 213 Whipped cream 213 Coffee Pot, to clean 202,1,000 Cold Beef. Au Gratin 575 A la Jardiniere 576 Broiled 571 Fricassee 573 Fritters 573 Hashed 572,573 Loaf .. 574 Masked 572,577 Olives 574 Patties 574 Pot-pie 575 Pudding 575 Rollages 575 Soused 572 Stewed 673 With macaroni 576 With mushroom sauce 572 With oysters 572, 576 With tomatoes 576 Cold Meat. And bread 570 And potato puffs 670 Batter 565 Fried 566 Fried corned 566 Molded 566 Omelet 567 Ovals 567 Pie 567 Pudding 566 Ragout of 570 Roll 569 Spiced on toast 575 Turnovers 570 With barley 571 With eggs 671 Wonders 570 Coloring fob Cakes, Etc. Blue 411 Brown 411 Caramel 179, 411 Cochineal 142 Green 411 Parsley...,. .. 180 . Page, Pink 4U Red 411 Spinach 180 Compotes...^. 311 Apple 317 Apricot 321 ^ird 374 Cherry 322 Damson 321 Gooseberry. 323 Green-gage 323 Orange 325 Peach 321 Pear 330 Pear, with eggs 330 Quince 331 Red 321 Syrup 311 White .321 Confectionery 129 Consomme 178, 8C5 Cookies. Chocolate % Cream 97 Eggless 97 Fruit 97 Ginger 104 Graham 97 Hickory Nut .... . 97 North German Christmas 97 Nutmeg 97 Oven for 96 Seed 96-97 Scotch 98 Who tleberry 98 Cooks Time-table.. 913-914 Cordial. Curry 216 Raspberry 216 Corn. And Tomatoes canned 158 Boiled 861 Canned 158 Chowder 834 Doiley 862 Dodgers 41 Dried 862,878 Dried, grated 293 Dried, new process.. 878 Fried 862 Hulled 863,879 In Brine 879 Meal 19 Omelet S62 Pie 862 Pones 43 Steamed 861 Stewed 862 Whenin season 917 Corn Bread 18,30,31 Boston 30 Boiled 30 Fire for 19 Plain 31 Steamed 30, 31 Crackers. Egg 40 French 40 Crabs. Boiled 800 Deviled 800 Fried 799 1268 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. To prepare ia52 When in season 917 Crayfish potted 279 CRACKNELy 40 Cream 40 Cranberries. Seasonfor 917 Cream. Almond 202 Chocolate 117 Cotiee ]i8 Double 109, 384 Double, true ;jS4 For whipping 109 Gelatine for 106 Italian ntj Measurement of.... !llO Of the Cream 384 Raspberry 117 Rock 117 Ruby ;ii7 '''ingle 109,3S4 Substitute for 201 Tapioca ii8 Tea 118 lo cook ;iS4 To make J06 Turret ns Whipped 119 Crea.m Hiscuits 401 Custard 401 Fruit 402-403 Fruit cases for 401 Italian 4(y> Jjut .■■.40.3 f aper cases for 401 Peach 402 strawberry 40.3 Vanilla 403 Vanilla with syrup.. 403 CREA.M C.VNDY. Almond 135 Chocolate [ i.].37 Chocolate, maple. . . 13.S Cocoa-nut 1.37 Everton ■'i:;5 I'S :i.37 trench i.jj French, uncooked... 1.37 Hiokory-nut 137 Lemon 137 Ribbon ,136 Vanilla almond .1.36 Walnut 136 Cream Tautar. Purity of 36 Quantity of .35 Cresents 98 Crullers ''ioo Fat for 90 When to eat .!!i66 Croquettes. T'TCiid 300 Chicken :300-302 Chicken with brains,301 Chicken with sweet- breads 301 Crab ^302 Cream '30^ Wara. •• .'.".'sOl Hominy 302 Lobster !.''s03 Meat ,303 Meat, fresh .....303 Page. Mutton 301, 3a'-> Oyster ,303 Parsnip 304 Potato 304 Rice 304 Rice btfll 305 Salsify 305 To bread 299 To fry 299 To make 298 To serve 300 To shape 288 Triple 30I Veal 301 Venison 30,) With Truffles .301 Without breading... 200 Croutons. For Entrees 850 For Soup 849 For Vegetables .850 Cru.mpets. Engli h 40 Hominy 41 Ric« ,'41 Royal 41 Crusts, to bake 604 CI'CIT.MBERS 863 Fried 863 Sewed 863 With Onions ,S63 Seasonfor 917 Cip. Currant 217 Fruit 217 Currants 308, 323 Candied 342 Canned 152 Dried '.341-34.5 rrosted 333 Frozen 3.35 Spiced ;,";667 Citstard. Apple 119 Baked 119 lioiled 106, loV.'llD Caramel.. 119 Caramel, boiled .120 Chantilly 409 Chocolate 120 Coffee ! 120 Corn Meal 120 Cup 121 Curdled no Flavor for .107 Fruit 121 • ieliitine .121 Kettle 107 I^eraon i2t Orange 620 Rule for 106 Snow-ball 12I Steamer for llO To bake 106 To make 106 To steam 107 CuTLKTs, frills for.... 979 Crystallization 422 Da.msons, season for.. .917 Canned ]56 d.xndelions . 863 Dessert Jellies. To make 444 To mold 444 Page. To serve 445 D1A.M0ND Top 61& Dinner. Boiled 829,875 New England 484 Doughnuts 99 Corn Meal .101 f ream lOl Dough for 100 Fat for 99-100 French 101 Oily Koeks 102 Raised loi Sugar for .'lOO DOVE.S, season for 917 Drinks 197 Harvest .217 Jelly 217 I>cmon 217 Oatmeal 217 Dressing. Bacon 775 Bacon, with Onions. 775 Bavarian 775 Bohemian 775 Bouillon 775 Bouillon, Jellied... 776 Bread a56 Cream 776, 70« Cream, cold ..776 Cream, sour 776 Creole 777 Eggless 776-777 English 777 Foam 7:9 French "777 Fruit '.lav; Italian 777 Lactiola 777 Mayonnaise ..777 Mayonnaise, green.. 77.<> Mayonnaise, red . ..77S Minnehaha 778 Onion .3.56 Orange 778 Orange, jellied 778 I'hiladelphia 782 Pickle .577 Potato a56, 779 Raspberry 778 Raspberry, jellied.. .779 Rice 714 Uye neaoh 776 Sandwich .5.S7 Sardine 773 Swenish 779 Swiss 779 Drippings, clarified.. .587 Drops. BergHir.ot 1.34 Centennial i;M Chocolate 1,34 Cinnamou 1.34 Clove i:m Cocoanut 134 Coifce 234 Damson IM Fruit 135 Cinder 134 Ivcmon 134, 138 Orange 13§ Orgeat 1.35 Peppermint 135 Strawberry lift INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1269 Page. Duck, tamo. Roast 713 Stewed 713 With cabbage 71.? , With carrots 713 With pease 713 Duck, wild. Baked 354 Boiled 364 Broiled 3o4 Fried 371 Uashed 354 Mock .480 Ragout of 354 Roast 355, 358 Salmi of 356 Stewed 35.5 Stewed with pease.. 355 Stewed Willi rice — 356 When inseason 918 Dumplings for Dessert. Apple, baked 7.38 Apple, boiled 738 Buckeye 739 Lemon 739 Peach 739 Raspberry 740 nijMPi.iNGS for Meat, etc. Buckeye 850 Marrow 850 Quick 850 Suet 8.50 Sussex 850 Swedish 850' Eki.s. Fried 274 To cook 250 Egg. Balls 2.37 Charlotte 2.37 Charlotte, sweet — 237 Fritters 237 Gems •• -.238 Mayonnaise 2-38 Puree 23S Pyramids 979 Sandwiches 238 Soup 2:38 Terrace ,239 Vol-au-Veut 2:J4 Eggs 225 Baked .228 Baked with ham 228 Boiled 229 Boiled, to serve 229 Breaded 239 Broiled 230 Buttered 230 Creamed 236 Curried 230 D viled 231 Flavor of 225-226 Force-meat 231 French 231 Fricassed 231 Fried 231 Holland 232 Italian 232 Mumbled 235 Nugget 2.32 Onion •'*> Pickled 233 - Plover's 233 Poached 233 Page. Quality of 226 Savory 235 Scalloped 234 Scrambled 235 Shirred 236 Shredded 236 Spanish 234 Stuffed 236 Time to cook 229 To keep 245 To mix 226 To test 226 With Cheese 2.39 With Cucumbers.... 238 With Mushrooms . . .239 With Pease ,239 With Syrup 240 With Tomatoes 240 With Vinegar 240 Whites of 69 Yolks of 69 Egg-plant. Baked 864 Fried 864 In cakes 864 Elderberries. Spiced 668 When in season 918 Endive, stewed 861 English bread and butter 195 Fanchonrttes 638 Figs, to freshen 341 Fish. Au court-bouillon.. .2.53 Augratin 270,288 Baked 251 Balls 2.51 Balls, chopped 264 Boiled 2,52 Boiled, to serve 254 Broiled 2-54 Broiled, to serve 255 Cake 264 Cake, white 264 Cake, yellow 265 Canapes 269 Chowder :.265 Cod 249 Collared 256 Croquettes 266 Crimped 256 Curried 2.56 Deviled 2,57 Dressing 266 Dried 257 For Invalids 249 Fresh 246 Fresh Water 251 French stew of 263 Fricassed 257 Fricasse of Cod 258 Fried ..2.58 Fritters 267 Garnishes for. . . 249, 976 In Jelly 270 In season 246 Knife and fork 286 Marinade 253 Pan, fried 277 Patties 568 Pickled 259 Pies 267 Potted 260 Page. Pudding 267 Rissoles 268 Salad 268 Salt water 251 Salted 261 Sandwiches 269 Sauces for 980 Scaloped 261 Souffle 269 Soup 269-270 Spiced 287 Steamed 262 Stewed 262 Straws 270 Toast 270 To bake 248, -2.52 To boil 2J8 To bone 248 To broil 248,225 To clean . .247 To cook 248,250 To frv 248 To freshen 247 To marinade 2.54 To shape 248 To steam 248 To serve 249-250 * To use cold 247 To wash 247 Trivet for 2.51 Turbans 270 Utensils 250 Warmed over 288 Weter for 2-52 With cheese 270 With olives 271 With rice 271 White, baked ....286-287 White, boiled.. ..272, 287 White, creamed 288 Flavor. Apple 443 Apricot 443 Cherry 443 Currant 443 Grape 443 Nectarine 443 Orange 443 Plum 443 Raspberry 443 Strawberry 443 Float. Orange 123,326 Peach 327 Pear 327 Quince 327 Raspberry 332 Flour 7-8 Always sift .96 Brown-bread 18 Browned 557 Whole wheat 18 Force-meat 551 Almond 5.51 Balls -654 Bread and Onion 553 Chestnut 552 Chicken 553 Fish 553 French 552 Game 552 Ham 552 Liver 515 Lobster ^2 1270 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Mushroom .552 (Oyster S.'VJ I'otato 516 Que relies of 551 Sage aud oaiou 554 Sausage 553 Suet 55S Sweet-breiid 553 Veal 553 Fowl. Braised 712 Deviled 712 Grilled 712 Molded 469 French Bkiochf. 52 Fkknch Loaf 12 I'au for V.i Kkicatei.li 515 Fritters 289 -Vpple 291 .\pricot 292 Bananas 292 Batter for 289 Berry 2<)2 Brain 292 Cake 292 Celery 292 Clam 29o Cracker dust in 289 Corn 29;! Corn, dried 29:{ (;orn meal 2it3 Cream 29:*. Currant 2W Doily '29-i Egg-plant 590 Fat for 290 Fruit 29J Grapo 294 Hominy 294 Italian 294 Lemon 294 Ix)b8 er 2f»4 Mincemeat .29.'> Nutmeg 295 Orange 292. 295 Oyster . ..295 Parsnip 2<.>5 Peach 295 Pine-apple 296 Pork 296 Potato 290 Queen 296 Rice 29<; Rye 297 Sandwich 297 Size of "..291 Snow 297 Sugar in "..2X9 To drain 290 To keep hot 291 To servo 291 Walnut " 297 Frogs \%i Au court bouillon. ..555 Fricasseed 554 Fried 555 Saddles 555 Salad 555 FHUIT. Albuminous 309 \ necessity 30 <;oorj Cooking 564 Goose. Larded wild 3.j8 Koast wild [VtC, Smoked wild ;{.')« When in season .. .918 (JOO.SEBERRY 308 (.'anned 152, l')<> Dried 345 Fool 323 Spiced 668 Tritie 324 When in season 918 GRAUA.M Bread: 18,31, 32 Fire for 19 Quick 32 Steamed 32 With baking powder.. 32 With soda 32 (JitAPES 324 Candied 342 (.'anni'd 153, 155 Frosted 3;i:{ Frozen 335 .kllied 324 Spiced 668 When in season 918 GREEN-gages Dried: 345 Gravy 555 Beef 559 Beef, rich SX) Brown 559 ISrown, cheap 5.59 Brown, rich 559 Carrot 560 Economical 5f)0 Economv of 555, 55() Giblet." 560 Herb 561 Heidelberg 561 Horse-radish 561 .lugged 561 Liver 560 Maitre dhotcl 562 Milk 562 Onion 5.52 Orange 562 Piquant 562 Sage 56;{ Seasoning for 564 Sour cream 365 To make 5.')5, S,^ Ve.'^l 563 Venison 563 Withontmeut 560 (■'riddle-Cakes. Batter 377 Batter, raised 377 Bread :i77 Breail, raised 37H Bucket for 9% Buckwheat .378.379 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1271 Page. Oereallne 379 Clam 380 Corn 377, 380, 3«5 Corn, raised 380 Eggsfor 376 Farina 380 Flannel 380 French 381 French, plain 381 Fruit 381 Glut n 381 Graham 381 Green corn 382 Hominy 382 Lifter for 377 Milk for 377 Oatmeal 382 Potato 382 Potato, grated 382 Powders for 377 Rice 382,383 Rye 382 Squash 383 Tomato 377 To turn 376 Griddle. Soap-stone 376 Stone 376 To care for 376 To grease 376 Grouse. Br iscd 358 Fried 371 Pie 359 Roast 358 Salad' 359 Sandwiches 359 GUAVA 307 Haddock. Boiled 275 Creamed' 275 When in season 918 Halibut. Bilked 275 Creoled 275 W hen in season 918 Ham, Balls 581 Baked 522 Boiled 52.3 Boned ....524 Broiled 524 Cake 526 Fried with eggs 525 Frizzled 525 Garnished 524 Grated 582 Omelet 581 Pie 582 Potted 525 Puffs 526,582 Relish 582 Roly-poly 522 Sandwiches 582 Scalloped 582 Soup 582 Squares .. 526 Steamed 526 Stuff'ed 522, 582 To garnish 979 With jellv 582 With vinegar 583 Hare. Jugged .360 Page. Roast 3G0 Hash 564 American 564 Baked 563 Baked, Mutton 578 Beef 573 Boston 573 English 564 Fried 573 Turkey 574 Vegetable 876 Head. Baked 541 Boiled 542 Browned 542 Broiled 543 Cakes 546 Calfs' 542 Cheese 546 Cheese, spiced 546 Collared 543 Croquettes 546 Croquettes, spiced... 546 Fricassed 543 Fritters 546 Lambs' 541 Molded 543 Pie 546 Potted 544 Ragout of Calf's 546 .Scalloped 544 •Sheep s 541 Stewed 544 StulTed 542 IIrart. Baked 485 Broiled Sheep's 4C0 Fried 4S6 Hen's Nest 210 Heubs. For seasoning 163 Sweet 5C5 '- Todry 1G3 When in season 918 - Herring. Baked 276 Baked, salt '276 Piiddiug 276 Salted 261 Season for 918 Hickory-nuts 339 Hidden Mountain 123 Hops, to keep 54 Hominy 864 Boiled 864 Coarse 593 Fine 593 Fried 593 Horse-radish. For winter 173 Season fur 9IS Stewed 8C4 Hucklebekeies 308 Apple 409 Apricot 409 Citron 409 Cherry .409 Choco"late 402,633 Currant 409 Gooseberry 410 Grape 410 Lemon ..410 Nectarine 409 Page. Orange 410 Orange, gopher 412 Peach 409-410 Peaches and cream.. 41» Pear 409 Pine-apple 411 Plum 400 Raspberry 410 Snow 411 Strawberry 410-411 Tutti Fiutti 411 Water-melon 409 Ices 407 Canned fruit for 400 Garnish for 408 Increase of 408 Juice for 407 Meringue for 507. 0:;4 Pulp for 407 Syrup for 634 To mold 408 To serve 40& Ice-crea.m. Almond 386, 393, 396 Almond caramel . .393 Apple 390, 400 Apricot ...399 Arrowroot 393 Banana 40O Best with fruit 387 Boston 393 Brine Blanket for. ...388 Buttermilk 393 Cabinet 400 Cake for 391 Cave for 391 Caramel 394, 396* Cherry 399 Chesnut 394 Chocolate 394 Chocolate caramel.. 394 Chocolate custard.. .395 Chocol!it°, fruit .394 Chocolate moss .395 Chocolate, spiced 394 Cocoa-nut 386. 395 Coff"ee 395 Coff"ee, whipped 395 Coffee, white 395 Custard 395 Custard kettle for. ...392 Eggless 387. .396 Eggs for 387 Fancy 394 FilbeVt 396 Fig .396 Flavor for 384. 393 Freezer 1001 Freezer.care of 392 Fruit 386 Fruit for.... 386,392-393 Fruit flavors for 386 Gelatine 397 Giueer 397 Harlequin 397 Hickory-nut ...; .397 Italian 397 Italian custard 398 Jam 397 Jam for ::92 Kentucky 397 Lacteanola 385, .".92 Lemon 398 Macaroon 398 1272 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Macaroon caramel.. .498 Molds for 389 Neapolitaa 384,392 New York 398 Nut 393 Orange 399 Peach 899,400 Pine-apple 400 Pistachio 393 Philadelphia, 384,387,392 Plum 369 Proportions for 387 Raspberry 399 liiced orange 399 Saratoga 400 Self freezing .. ..389,300 Strawberry ."99 Substitutes in 292 Sugar for 384,387 Surprise 401 Tea 39.5,401 To freeze 387,389 To make 385, 388 To mold 389 To serve 389, ,390 Iriple XM Tutti Frutti 401 Utensils for.387, 392, 1014 Vanilla 401 Vanilla custard 401 With eggs 385 Without eggs 385 Whipped ims Whipped cream for, 3K), 392 /CING. Almond 41.") Beaiiug 41:! Boiled. 415 Boiled, eggless 41G Boiled, chocolate 417 Cape May 957 Clear 417 Chocolate.. 416 Chocolate caramel. ..417 Chocolate cream 416 Chocolate, spiced 417 Chocolate gelatine. ..417 Cocoa 416 Confectioner's. 417 Corn-starch 4 1 R Diagrams for 423 Duplex 957 Eagless 116,418 For IJride's cake 425 For(;hautill V custrd,428 For Charlotte Russe,427 For Dessert cake.... .426 For Jelly cake 427 French 418 Gelatine 418 Glaze 418 Hard 418 Inlaid 421 Isinglass 41S Lemoh 419 Marble 419 Meringue 419 Orange 419 Ornamental 421 Pearl 420 Piping -122 Plain 413,420 Proportion for 414 Page. Quick 420 Soft 420 Snow 420 Smoother 413 Spatula for 413 Toapplv 414 To make 414 Transparent 420 Tutti Frutti 420 Water 420 Yellow 421 ISI-.VND. Cocoa-nut 122 Floating 122 Jam 430 Apple 431 Apricot 431 Perries for 431 Berry 435 Blackberry 432, 4:« Carrot 4'S2 Cherry 432 Currant 432 Damson 432 French 432 Gooseberry 433 Gooseberry with c u r- rant juice 433 Grape 433 Grecu-gage 4:iJ Making 430 Paddle for 4m I'ie-plaut 4Xi I'ie-plant audOrango434 Pine-apple 434 Plum 433,4:^4 Quince 4114 Raspberry 434 Strawberry 4:^5 To keep..".... 431 Jklly. Apple 137,445 Apricot 438 Aspic 445, 715 Bag 4:36 Blackberry 439 Calf's-foot 445 Cherry 4:«» Chocolate 446 cider 446 Coffee 446 Corn-starch 447 Crab-apple 438 Cranberry 439 Currant 439 Currant, black 440 Currant, uncooked. .440 Dried apple 438 Easter 447 Elderberry 440 Four fruit 448 Fruit 4:55,447 Gooseberry 4-11 Grape 441 Grape, wild 441 Italian 4.50 Lemon 447 I,emon snow 447 Muscadine 441 Orange 448 Teach 441.448 Pie Plant 441, 449 rig.s-foot 419 I'iue-apple 441,449 Page Plum 442 Quince 442 Raspberry ,443 Ribbon 449 Sandwiches 461 Savory 446 Strainer 436 St awberry 439 ,443 Tapioca 449 Tomato 443 To make 435—437 'Jo cover 436 To test 436 Whipped 450 With Fruit 450 JONNY-CAKE 42 Alabama 42 Jumbles Coacoa-nut 98 Lemon 98 To tiuish 96 KIDNEYS 590 Broiled 490 Fried 491 Mutton 491 Ragout 491 Stewed 491 Veal and bacon 460 Kedgeree 287 Kisses 159 Oven for 131 Sugar for 131 Knitted cover G89 KringleS 52 La. MB. Braised 498 Boiled 503 Carbonade of 499 Chops 501 Curried 503 Deviled 677 Fricassee 602 Fried 577 Grilled 498 Roast 499 Siiuares 676 Stewed 500 With Asparagus 500 With Pease 500 With Tomatoes 500 Landrails .'ieo Lemon 300 Frappee 218 Peel, candied 842 Paste 347 Lemonade. F;ffervescing 219 Egg 219 Everyday 218 Hot 219 Milk 219 Picnic 219 Pocket 220 Sparkling 218 Tutti Frutti 218 Lettuce Pureeof 871 Stewed 864 Wilted 864 LiVKR And Bacon 488 Baked 486 Balls 48» Blaiiquettes of . .. 49* INDEX TO COOKEBA' RECIPES. 1273 Page. Broiled 487 Curried 487 Deviled 487,577 Fried 488 Larded 486 Larded, broiled 487 Minced 488 Pudding 489 Rolls 489 Stewed 489 Stuffed 874 Lobster. Boiled 800 Broiled 800 Croquettes 801 Curried 1052 Cutlets 801 Deviled 800 Kagout of 801 Roasted 801 Salad 787 Sauce 1053 Sc^.llo ed 801 Macaroni. Baked ...865 Boiled 865 Italian 865 Triple 865 With Tomatoes 865 Macaroons, Almond 139 Chocolate 139 Hickory-nut 139 Lemon 139 Pecan 139 Pyramid of 1S9 Mackerel. Baked 276 Baked Salt 276 Boiled 276 Boiled Salt 276 Broiled 277 Pickled 277 When in season 918 Mangoes. Hawkeye 659 Horse-radish for ... 660 Melon 659 Pepper 660 Pepper with tongue. 661 Tomato 661 Yellow 659 Marmalade 723 Apple 7.33 Apricot IS^i Crab Apple 623 Crab Apple for pies. 723 Fig 733 Orange 733 Peach 734 Pine-apple 734 Wild Plum 734 Marsh mallow 140 Mead 220 Meat. Balls 489 Batter 565 Bear 353 Boiled 455 Brassing 455 Broiled 457 Carving 455 Cold .563 Court BouilUon 456 Deviled 712 Fried 458 Garnishes for 976 Glazing 435 Jellied 456 Larding 459 Marinade 456 Molded 459 Potted 460 Sauces for 980 Steam d 603 Stewed 446 To cook 454 To garnish 455 To keep 453 To restore 453 To serve 455 Tough 454 When tender 453 Melons 308, 338 Nutmeg 308,338 Japan ..308 Water 308,338 Meringue. Apple 614 For pies 604 Marbled 390 Oven for 131 Peach* 614 Pieplant 614 Milk, use of 19 Mince meat 622 Appleless ...624 Dried apples for 623 Farmer. s 624 Fragment 624 Holiday 622 Lemon 624 Measure 625 Proportion of 623 Suggestions for 623 Muffins. Corn ,52 Cream 42 Graham 42 Indian 42 Rice 42 Rice fiour 43 Rye 43 Sourmilk 43 Wheat -..43 Mock Crab 196 Terrapin 490 Molded grains 594 Moonshine' Mullet, baked 277 Mush Baked 591 Cerealiue Cerealine, fried 591 Corn meal.. .589,591 Cracked wheat 594 Custard kette for 589,490 Farina 592 Fried .590,592 Gluten 592 Graham 592 Graham, molded 592 Granula 592 Philadelphia 591 Round cans for. .590, 592 Rye 592 Thickness of 590 Page, To make 589 To stir 589 To serve 590 Water for 589 With fruit 594 Mushrooms Baked 596 Broiled 596 Curried 597 Catsup 599 Catsup, double 499 Fried 597 Omelet 599 Pickled 597 Potted 598 Powder 600 Pudding 60O Sauce 6oO Scallops 601 Stems 602 Stewed 598 Toast .602 To prepare 595 To test 595 With eyes 602 With drawn butter.. 601 Musk melons Season for 918 Mustard 164 French 180 Indian 180 Prepared 180 Tartar 180 Mutton A la Venison 509 And macaroni 579 Au court bouillon. .-508 Augratin 508 Balls 679 Birds 509 Boiled 502, 503 Boned 503 Braised 498 Chops 502, 506 Chops, masked 506 Chops, Swiss 508 Chops with cheese... 502 Collops 578 Curried 503, 577 Cutlets 502 Cutlets, cold .566 Fillet of 509 Harricot 503 Hash 578 Hot Pot 507 Leg of ,....502,504 Masked 577 Mock Saddle of 580 Molded 4.59 Pie 507,578 Pudding 507 Ragout of 510,580 Relish 579 Rissoles 508,579 Roast 504 Rolled 504 Scallops ..508 Scalloped 578 Shoulder of 5o4 Smothered 577 Stewed 506,579 With onions 579 With pickles 580 With Tomatoes 579 1274 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. rage. Nectar Blackberry 220 Cherry 220 Cream 220 Grape 2J0 Welsh 221 Nectarines .309 Frozen SIS Nougat, white 141 Nuts, arrangement of .310 Oatmeal Fried 593 .T»»llied 593 Molded 593 New York 593 Steamed 593 Okra Boiled 866 Fried 866 Medley 866 Patties 871 With Ham )S66 With Tomatoes 866 Olives 0<)2 Stuffed 41'} Beef 480 Omelet 226 Baked 242 Bread 241 Cheese 241,243 Chicken 243 Chocolate, 244 Corn 241 Cream 241 Fish 241 Flabby 227 French 241 Fruit 244 Lemon 242 Meat 228,241 Milk.... 242 Mi.xed 241 Mushroom 242 Olive 212 Orange 242 Oyster 242 Pan 227 Plain 242 Pot to 213 Puff 243 Savory 241 Size of 228 Sweet baked 244 Sweet, fried 244 To bake 227 To make 527 Vegetable 22^,244 Water 24* Waverly 244 With Parsley 228 Onions. Baked 866 Boiled 866 Browned .5.57 Creamed 866 Fried 866 Stuffed 866 Omelet 866 Pudding ■ 866 With beans 866 When in season 918 Orange. Citron 343 Compote 825 Page. Fool 325 Float 123,326 Paste 347 Peel, candled 443 Snow 325 Oranges : 307,325 Frosted 333 Frozen 333 Glazed 335 Mock 448 When in season 918 QVF.N. For Bread 19 Moderate 27 Paper test for 14 Oyster. And chicken pie 813 Chowder 811 Croquettes 811 Fritters 811 Fritter Patties 812 Omelet 811 Ovals 567 Pani^akea 811 Pattits 812 Pie 812 Powder 812 Roll , 813 Sandwiches 815 Soup 814 Stew 814 Stew with celery .814 Toast 814 Vol-au-vents... .812,815 Oysters. And Macaroni 815 Best time for 798 Boiled .816 Broiled 802 Corn 293 Creamed 8(i2 Curried 802 Deviled 803 Fricasseed 805 Fried 803 Fried, Boston 803 Fried, Buckeve 8(t3 Fried, Gopher 804 Fried, It-lian H04 Fried, Manhattan.. 804 Fried, Philadelphia. S04 Fried, Superior 803 Hidden 805 In shell ...797,806,815 In scallops 809 Panned 806 Pickled 806 Raw 807 Raw, to serve 807 Scalloped 808,809 Skewered 800 Spiced 807 Steamed 809 Stuffed 810 Tiuftled 810 To open 798 To prepare 707 To serve 798, 805 Varieties of 798 Vegetable 870 Walled 810 With cream 806 With onions 802 Ox-eyes 240 Page' 0.x -TAILS Boiled 492 Stewed 492 Pan Bread 10,12,14,15 Lady Fingers 92 Ru.ssian Iron 16 St«m, substitute for.. .66 Pancakes, Berlin lOi Parsnips (;ake 868 Fried 867 Stewed 897 Warmed over 860 Partkii)(;e Braised 358 Broiled 358 Hashed 361 Pie 362 Potted 361 Kis.soleaof 362 Salad 359 Salmi of 366 Stewed 'Ml i;oa.st 361, 363, 366 \\ith Mushroms . 362 Parsley, fried ...181, 241 Paste Batter 606 Beau 607 Corn meal 6(i6 Cream 605 Economical 605 Florida (M)6 (iraham 605 Hygienic 606 Nantucket 606 Oatmeal 606 Oven for 611 Plain .606 I'ot.ito 607 I'nir 60-J, 607 Puff. French 609 Puir, good 607 I'lilt", me0:! Brush 16 C)i ting 6(X! Knging .6 9 Frosting .AVKi (ilaze 612 Rolling *M> Paw I'Aws, season for. 918 Peaches :«>9, ,S26 And cream 328 Baked 327 Candied 343 Canned 152,153 Canned, cold 145 Dried 345 Frosted SXi Frozen 327,835 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1275 Page. Frozdfi with cream.. 327 In brine 880 In marmalade 328 Jellied 327 Vegetable ;..309 Peach. Float 327 Leather 880 Meringue 327, 624 Paste 348 Sauce 346 Tapioca 328 Pears 309,328 Baked 329 Canned 152, 154 Compote 330 Jellied 329 Float 327 Frosted 334 8tewed 329 Pease. Baked 868 Canned 658 Creamed 868 Dried .., 868,880 Green 868 Pudding 855,868 With vegetables .... -.868 When in season 918 Pepper-nuts ..98 Pepper-pot 876 Pheasant. Broiled 362 Cutlets 363 Fried 367 Hashed 361 Pot roast 365 Roast 365,363 Pie plant. ' Baked 330 Canned 155 Canned, cold 155 Fried 331 Meringue J614 Btewed 330 Pickled. Apples 643 Artichokes 643 Barberries 643 Beans 643 Beets 643 Cabbage 644 Cabbage and peppers 644 Cabbage, red 644 Carrots 645 Cauliflower 644 Celery and Cabbage 546 Cherries 646 Cucumbers 652 Eggs 646 Gherkins 646 Grapes ' 646 Lemons 647 Limes 647 Kasturtiums 647 Onions .644,647 Onions, Spanish 645 Peaches 648 Plums 648 Radish Pods 649 Sweet corn 649 Tomatoes 649 Page. Walnuts 649 Pickles 641 Alum for 641 Bottles for 641 Cans for 641 Chopped 650 Chowchow 657 Chowchow, Buckeye 658 Chowchow, Gopher.. 657 Chutney 659 Cucumbe r 651,653 Cucumber, sliced . . . 653 Cucumber, ripe 654 French 654 Hanover 655 Hi^ilon 654 Imitation 645 In Brine 641, 652 Kettle for 641 Ladies' delight 650 Marty nia 654 Mixed 6M Oil-cloth cover for... 643 Pepper 655 Pepper, chopped . . . .655 Picallilli 661 Picnic Relish 661 Pyfer ,'..655 Rhine 645 Saltfor 642 Self-made 653 Sliced 650 Spanish 655 Spicing for 442 To keep 641 Tomato, green 656 Tomato, ripe 656 Universal 656 Variety 656 Vinegar for 641,642 West India 657 Pickles, Sweet 662 Apple 666 Beets 664 Clingstone 666 Currant 664,668 Figs 665 Grape 664 Huckleberry 665 Peach 665,666 Pear 665,666 Pear, Gopher 666 Pine-apple 666 Raisin 665 Ripe Cucumber 665 Spices for 662 Strawberry 666 Sugar for 662 Syrup for 552 To can .663 To make 662,663 Tomato, chopped ...667 Tomato, ripe 667 Tomato' sliced 667 To test 663 Watermelon 667 Pie. Apple. custard 614 Apple-butter custard 614 Apple, deep .620 Apple, grated 613 Apple, halved ....... .613 Page. Apple, lemon 613 Apple meringue 614 Apple, sliced 615* Apple, sliced, with al- monds 614 Apples, sliced, with cream 613 Apricot 626 Banana 614 Banana and apple.. .614 Berry 615,626 Berry, canned 616 Berry, dried 616 Blackberry 615 Boiled Cider 615 Buttermilk 615 California 625 Carrot 615 Cherry .615 Chess 615 Cocoa-nut : .616 Corn-starch 615 Cottage .613 Cottage cheese 616 Crab-apple 614 Cracker 618 Cranberry 615, 618 Cream 616 Creamless 617 Cream, whipped . . . .617 Cream whipped with fruit 617 Crumb 617 Currant 626 Currant, green 618 Currant ripe 618 Custard 618 Custard, chocolate... 619 Custard, Jelly 619 Custard, raspberry ..619 Diamond Top for... 616 Dried-apple... 612 Dried-apple and cran- berries 612 Dried-currant 618 Dried-peach 626 Dried Pumpkin 629 Elderberry 619 Flavoring for 616 Fruit 619 Fruit, shallow 620 Gooseberry 620 Grape 620 Hickory-nut 621 Lemon 621 Lemon, boiled 621 Lemon, chopped . . .621 Lemon, economical. 621 Lemon, eggless 621 Lemon, sliced 922 Lemon, with fruit.. .621 Meringue for 604 Mince-meat for 622 Mock-mince 618 Molasses 625 Orange 625 Orange, sliced 626 Pans for b 4, 619 Peach 626 Peach, cream 626 Peach meringue 614 Pie-plant 616 Pie-plant meringue. 914 Pie-plant, stewed 627 1276 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Pie-plant, with fruit.. 627 Pine-apple 627 Plum 627 Potuio 627 Potato, sweet 627 Prune 6.58 Prune, custard 6r>6 Pumpkin 628 Pumpkin, egglcss.. .626 Raisin 629 Raspberry.. ,615,626,680 Rice 630 HaratORa 630 hSquasli 629 Strawberry.. ..626,6.S0 Sweet apple. 613 Tomato 6,«) T mato, ripe 630 Vinegar 630 Pie Game 708 Giblet 708 Hampton 567 Lamb 709 Mixed meat 5(>7 Meat 708 Meat and potato 568 Panned 708 Pigeon 364 Raised 429, 5(>8 Sea 481 Tongue 568 Veal 709 Veal and Ham 533 Veal and Oyster 533 Western .37.') Pickerel, baked 278 Picnic Fall 918 Summer 918 Pig, roast 51,"» Pig's Fekt, souse 610 Pigs Head Raked 517 Roiled 517 Cheese .. .518 Collared 517 Pigeon A la mode 364 Braised :>')8 Pie 3M Roast 363 Stewed 364 Pike, ala Godard ...278 PiNE-APPl-K .... 307,311. 331 •And Tapioca 320 C'annea 155 Dried 346 Frozen 334 To keep 3;?! Pinch of sug.\r 564 Pippins, Jellied 313 Plaintans.. 307 Plums 331 Canned 155 Dried 346 Frozen 335 Pa.ste 347 Pocket-books 43 pop-ovees 43 Corn 43 Pork And beans 514 Boiled .010 Page. Cake 580 cheese 581 Chops 612 Cutlets 581 Hush 581 Pie 513 Pudding 513 Roast,.... 513 Roast loin of 510 Roast leg of 5U Roll 613 Steaks 513 Stewed 512 Tenderloi'i 513 To keep fresh 515 POT-AU-FEU 464,841 pot.\to-pot 486 Pork, salt Boiled .M9 Fried 519 In Batter 619 Pot Pie 520 P essed 520 Rashus of 979 Roastof 520 Scraps 519 Stew '.....521 With !ii);,le8 520 Potato A la Macaron i 681 Ala Muitre d' Hotel 68:^ Ala Pancake 679 A la Pari.sienne 68.5 Baked 673 Baked, quick 673 Balls .684 Biscuit^ ... 685 B anc mange. 687 Boiled 674,675 Bonier (91 Breakfast . ..676 Broiled 677 Browned 676, ()77 Buckeye 6S2 Cake 6N5 Cakes (>85 Castle 681 Casserole of 680 Creamed 677 Croquettes ,686 Curried 678 Dashed 675 Diced 678 Duchesse 685 Flour 686 For garnishing 691 Fricassed 678 Fried 678 Fried, French 678 Fried, prated 679 Fried, raw 678 Fritters (Vs; Galvc^itou 691 (ilRzed 674 Granite 6iK) In a cake 678 Jelly 687 Lactiola 683 Larded 674 I.,oaves 691 Lyonaise 691 Marinated 677 Mashed 679, 682 Mashed, brown G8s ...(VSO With viiu-i.'ar 683 Potato, Sweet. Baked 691 Biscuits 693 Boil.d 692 Browned 6S6 I'ake 686 Cakes 693 (.Carolina 692 Cheese-cakes .* 693 Fried 692 Gla/ed 692 Mashed 692 Perfection 692 Roasted 692 Steamed 692 Stewed 693 Texas 692 With meat 691 Poultry 694 As food 694 Frozen .fiM INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1277 Page. To bard 695 To boil.... 695 To lard 695 To roast 695, 6% To stew 695 To stuff 694 To truss 695 Prairie Chicken. Boiled 363 Hashfd 361 Pot-ro .St of 365 Roast 363 365 Salmi of .. 366 Steamed 366 Stewed 366 Preserves, — 721 Apple 723 Apricot 723 Barberry 723 Blackberry 724 Blueberry 724 Carrot . 724 Care of 722 Cherry 724 Citron 724 Crab-apple 725 Cranberry 724 Cu-ant. 724 Elderberry 725 Fis 725 Grape 726 Grape wild 725 Green-gago 726 728 Green-tomato 7oO Mulberry 726 Peach 726 727 Pear 727 Pie-plant 727 Pine-apple — 727 Plum 728 Pumpkin 729 Quince 729 Quince and apple 729 Raspberry ^ 729 Rule for 721 Strawberrv 729 Sun : 721 Syrup 722 'lomato 729 To make 621 Water-melon 730 Prunes 346 Browned 346 Tapioca 347 Whip 347 PUDDiNG Almond 740 Apple 741 Apple-batter 742 Apple, boiled 742 Apple-custard 614 Apple charlotte 741 Apple, dried 751 Apple, sweedish 741 Arrowroot 743 Bachelor's 743 Bags 736 Batter 744 Batter, steamed 744 Berry 760 Birds-nest 742 Blackberry 746 Blueberry. . .741, 746, 760 Boiled 736 Page. Bread 744,745 Bread, brown 746 Brown 746 Brown Betty 741 Cabinet 746 Cake 747 Cape May 740 Carrot 747 Cerealine 747 Cherry 751 Chocolate 747, 748 Chocolate, with fruit. 748 Citron 648 Cocoa-nut 746, 748 Corn-starch 748 Cottage 749 Cracked-wheat 749 Cream 749 Cream, perfection. ..750 Currant 741 Curate's 750 Danish 743 Date 750 Delmonico..., 750 Dixie 750 Easter 749 Easter, with fruit — 749 Economical 760 Estelle 750 Fig 750 Flavor for Cabinet... 405 Florentine 745 Frozen Frozen, witli gelatine40i Fruit 745,757 Gingerbread 752 Gooseberry . . .745 Graham 752 Half-hour 752 Hunter's 763 Indian 752 Indian, boiled. 752 Indian, fruit 752 Indian, steamed 753 Kiss.... 753 Layer 745 L°mou 753 Lemon, boiled 754 Macaroni 754 Milkfor 735 Minnehaha 742 Minute 754 Molasses 754 Mold 737 Monday 745 Nesselrodo 405 Oatmeal 754 One, two, three, four 754 Orange 746,754 Paris 754 Peach 747 Pe ich, dried 751 Pie-plant 754 Ptttsburg 753 Pine-apple 756 Plain 744 Plum-eggless 757 Plum, English 756 Plum, Gelatine 758 Plum, Prairie 758 Plum with apples... 757 Potato 758 Prune.... ...758 Puff 759 Puff-quick 759 Puff, Saratoga., 759 Queen Mab 759 Queen of 746 Raisin 760 Raspberry 760 Rice 760 Rice, with fruit 760 Rice, boiled . 760 Sago 762 Sago, with apples 762 Sauces for 737 Sago with raisins — 762 Scottish 743 Snow 762 Souffle ....762 Steaming 736 Sugar in 735 Suet 763 Suet for 735 Suet, ginger 763 Suet with apples. ... 763 Sweet-potato 758 Sweedish 829 Swi-s 763 Tapioca 763 Tapioca, apple 764 Tapioca, peach 764 Tapioca, cocoa-nut.. 764 Tapioca, cream 764 Vermicelli 764 Vermicelli, « ith Marmalade 764 Water bath for 737 White 764 Whortleberry 765 With apples 761 With fruit ...743 With peaches 761 Puffs Breakfast 43 Boston cream 86 Buckeye cream 86 Raisin 759 Pumpkin. Canned 159 Dried 868 Fried 880 Season for 918 Quail. Boiled 366 Fricassee 367 Fried 366 Mock 482 On toast 368 Pot-roast 365 Roast 367 Steamed — 367 When in season 919 Quince Baked 331 Canned 155 Compote 331 Float 327 In Jelly 731 Steamed 332 When in season 919 Rabbit 368 Boiled 368 Creeled 369 Curried 369 Fricassee 369 Fried 369 Jack 360 1278 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Potted 369 Roast 370 Sandwiches 370 When inseason 919 Ragamuffins 196 Raksine .332 Raisins 341 Raising Powdek. Proportion of 35, 62 Ramakins 193 Pastry 193 Toast 194 Rarebit. Scotch 194 Welch 194 Yorkshire 195 Raspbekries 308 Dried 344 Float aS2 When in season 919 Red Snapper Boiled 279 Fried 279 Reed Birds Baked 370 Roast 370 When in season 919 Rice. Apples 742 Baked 865 Boiled 868 Buttered 761 For curries fi69 Pie 869 Stewed 869 Snow-ball 761 Southern 869 With milk 869 Roasts. Pot 566 Spare-rib 511 Tenderloin 511 Warmed-over 565 Washing on 375 Roe. Crounetts 280 Fried 279 ROLY-POLY. Apple 765 Dixie 766 Fig 765 Orange 76.^ Peach 7R4 Rolls. Breakfast 44 Cinnamon 44 Coffee 44 Corn 44 Dinner 44 Egg ....45 Everv-day 45 French 4.5,46 Graham 47 Italian 47 Oatmeal 47 Pa kor House 47 Ring 47 Snow-flake 47 Twist 52 Vienna 47,48 Weddi ng Sandwich . . .48 Winter 49 Roll Pan. French 16 Page. Italian 47 Vienna 13 Roix. Brown 658 White 558 Salad 772 Alligator Pear 330 Anchovy 779 Apple 779 Apple and celery 779 Asparagus 779 Beau 780 Bean, Lima 780 Beef 788 Borage 78) Boston 795 Brussels 790 Cabbage 780 Celery 781 Cheese 784 Chicken 781 ChickenMavonnaise 782 Codfish 784 Corn-salad 787 tJucumber 783 Cucumber and onion 783 Cucumber and To- mato 794 Currant 787 Crab 783 Crawfish 783 Creole 794 Dandelion 794 Egg 783 Endive 784 Fish 268,784 Florida 789 Fruit 783,787 Game 789 Garnishes 978 Gelinoea 784 Ham 788 Herring 7H5 Hop 795 Inexpcusive 772 .Tapanese 791 ■Telly-border for 796 Kinds to use lOSJ Lemon 789 Lettuce 786 Lobst r 787 Lobster, canned 788 Meat ..788 Meat and Pork 788 Jlelou 3.38 Miut 784 Mixed 780 Mixing 773 Mutton and Carrot.. .788 Nasturtium 789 Onion 789 t)range 789 Oyster 789 Pepper. 781 Pickle 790 Pliiladelphia 790 Potato 700 Potato with Beets.. ..791 Potato with cabbage 791 Radish 783 Russian 729 Salmon 268, 792 Salmon, canned... .792 Sandwiches ^M Page. Sardine 776,798 Scallop 793 Serving 783 Shad Roe 784 Shells 773 Shrimp 793 Sweet-Dread 794 Tip-top 780 Tomato 794 To prepare 772 Turnips 796 Variety of 772 Veal 788 Vegetable 795 Vegetable 795 Water-cress 795 Wholesome 1119 Salad, gelinola. With fish 784 With fruit 785 With game 785 With lobster 785 With meat 785 With oysters 785 With poultry 785 With vegetables 785 Sally Ldnn 50 Salmon. Baked ..277,280 Boiled 281 Canned 282 Croquettes 280 Crimped 282 Cutlets, broiled 282 Escaloped 282 Fritters 281 Steaks, fried 282 Stewed 283 When in season 919 Salsify. Cake 870 Fried 870 Fritters 870 OntoasA 870 Scalloped 870 Soup 870 Salt, spiced 181 Sandwiches. Beef 483 Cheese 585 Cream 4.52 Egg 585 French 452 Ham 585 Jelly 451 Lunch .S86 Mixed 586 Preserve 638 Rfispbcrry 482. 638 Reception 586 Rolls 587 Salad 236, .'^86 Toast 587 Tongue 587 Victoria 4.')2 Sauce 284 Sardines. American 283 Fried 28.T IIow made . 2S;> Salad 776,793 Sauces for meats. Almond 16 Anchovy 167 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1279 Page. Apple 167 Asparagus 168 Baia marie for 162 Bechamel 179 Bread 168 Brown 161 Caper 168 Carrack 483 Celery 169 Celery seed for 163 Chestnut 169 Chili 169 Crab .170 Cranberry 170 Cream 170,362 Currrnt 170 Currant-Jelly 171 Cu ry 171 Custard kettle for. .171 Drawn-butter 171 Egg 172 Gooseberry 172 HoUandaise 172 Horse-radish 172, 463 Indian Chutney 173 Italian 173 Leamington 173 Lemon 171, 173 Liver and lemon 174 Liver and parsley 174 Lobster 174 Lobster, economical. 175 MHgical 161 Mayonaise. 175 Mayonaise, fish 175 Mephistophelian — 71^ Mint 175 Mustard 468 Olive 175 Onion 176 Orange 176 Oyster 170 Oyster, brown 177 Parsley 177 Pickle 171,494 Piquant 562 Polish 493 Kobert 512,592 Shrimp 171 Sorrel 475 T.irtare 177 Thickening for 162 Tomato 177 Tomato, French ... 178 To repare 161 White 178 White, French 178 Sauces foe puddings. Apricot 767 Arrowroot 760 Cape May 767 Caramel 767 Cherry 767 Chocolate 767 Cider 767 Cocoanut 708 Cocoanut hard 770 Cream, cold, 768 Cream, whipped 768 Currant 76S Curra"t, dried 768 Custard 768 Dip 768 Egg 768 Page. Every-day 768 Foaming 768 Fruit 768, 769 Golden 769 Hard 769 Jelly 768 Lactiola 770 Lemon 769,770,771 Lemon, hard. ..769, /70 Maple-sugar 770 Marigold 770 Minnehaha 770 Orange 770 Orange, hard 769 Peach 767 Pine-apple 771 Plain 769 Prairie 769 Prune 771 Queen 771 Kaspberry 767, 771 Sago 771 Saratoga. . . 767, 771 Snow 767 Spice 769, 771 Strawberry 767 Syrup 786 Vanilla 741 Vint gar 771 Sauer Kraut ...1010 Sausage 527 And apple 527 Baked 527 Breaded 527 Cold, sliced 1047 Creoled.- 527 Liver 527,1047 Mixed 1047 Mutton 528 Ovsters 528 Pork 1047 Pork, Buckeye 1047 Poultry 528 Roll 527.529,581 Summer 1047 Triple 1047 Veal 528 Virginia 1047 White 528 With Chestnuts 529 Savakin 766 With apples 766 Scallops 816 Baked 816 Chinese 816 Fried 816 Stewed 816 scallopade 196 Scrapple 518 Philadelphia 571 Scones 50 Shad, baked 283 When in season 919 Shells. Cut 631 Folded 632 Layer 631 Laver, double 631 Patty 631 Pyramid 632 Tart 630 Vol-an-vent 632 Shell-fish 797 Potted 817 Page. Sheep-head, baked.... 284 Sherbet, Crystal 403 Lemon 221 Milk 221 Orange 221 Pine-apple 221 Strawberry 222 Short-cake. Orange 639 Peach 639 Raspberry 639 Saratoga 639 Strawberry 639 Shrimps 817 Curried 817 Pie 817 Potted 817 Shrub. Blackberry 222 Currant 222 Gooseberry 222 Raspberry 222 Strawberry 222 Slaw, Cold 796 Cream 796 Cream, whipped 796 Spoon-fork 994 Smklts, fried 249 Snaps. Ginger 105 Ginger, Hotel 105 Lemon 98 Snipe. Fried 374 Roast 374 When in ceason 919 Soda, Eflervescing 223 Soles, fried 285 Souffles. Almond 740 Apple 125 Baked 124 Cheese 125 Chestr.ut 125 Chicken 125 Chocolate 126 Chocolate, cold 126 Cream 126 Jelly 127 Lemon 127 Macaroni 127 Omelette, fruit 127 Orange 128 Potato 128 Soup. Almond 825 Amber 826 Apple 826 Apricot 835 Artichoke 826 Asparagus 827 Asparagus with pease 827 Baked 842 Balls for 848, 849 Barley 827 Basis for 818 Bean 827,840 Bean, meatless 828 Bcan-Saturday..827, 840 Bean, Turtle 827 Bean, white 828 Beef 828 1280 INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. Page. Beefsteak 828 Beef, okra 829 Black 829 Blackberry 83^ Bouilloa 830 Bread 831 Cabbage 831 Carrot 831 Cauliflower 831 Celery 831 Celery cream 831 Cherry 835 Chestnut 832 Chickeu 832 Chicken, Southern.. .832 Clarifying 825 Clear 818,826 Clam 832, 8;^3 Cocoanut S-iS Cora 833 Corn, hasty 83:J Corn, meatless 8.34 Cream 834 Cream of Barley 834 Cream of B ets S34 Cream of Salmon 834 Cream of Spinach. .834 Croutons for 849 Cucumber 834 Flemish 834 Fruit 819, 835 Hasty 840 Julienne 836 Lemon 836 Lobster 836 Making : 819 Milk 836 Milk with eggs 836 Mock Turtle 836 •Mutton 838 Necessity of 818 Noodle 838 Okra 838 Onion 838 Ox Tail 839 Oyster 839 Oyster, mock 839 Parsnip 839 Pea 810 Poached eggs for... 821 Pea, split 840 Pheasant 810 Potato 841 Pumpkin 841 Rabbit 841 Raspberry 835 Rice 842 Royal 845 Sago 842 Seasoning 820 Sheeps-head ...842 Spinach 842 Spring 842 Sorrel 843 Sour cream 847 Strawberry 834 Stock 822 Swiss 845 Terrapin, mock 846 Thick 813 Thickening for .... 820 Tomato 843 Tomato with rice....&44 Tomato, meatless 8-44 Page. To warm up 992 Triple 840 Turkey 844 Turnips 844 Turtle 845 Variety of 819 Veal 846 Vegetable 846 Vegetable, meatless. 847 Vermicelli 847 Weimar 847 White 848 Wyntoun 848 Soi'P-STOCK. Brown 179 Complex 824 Economical 824 Fish 824 Jelly 823 Liquid 823 Medium 825 Plain 822 Rich 825 White 178, 824 Spiced. Spagheti 196 spare-kib pot-pie 514 Blackberries 667 Cherries 667, 668 Currants 667 Elderberries 668 Gooseberries 668 Grapes 668 Nutmeg-melon 668 Plums 668 Peaches 668 Pears 668 Tomatoes 668 Spices, mixed 851 SPIN.4.CH 870 On t ast 870 When iu season 919 Sponge. And bread 20 Apricot 116 For winter 20 Lemon 115 < >range ... 115 Pine-apple 116 Peach 116 Pear 116 Squ.^sh. Baked 871 Cakes 871 Fried 871 Patties 871 Stimmei 871 Winter 871 When in season 919 Squirrels, boiled 363 Stewed 371 Steak, baked 863 Stews. Arabian 471 Bean 876 Brunswick 703 Cabbage 876 Corned beef 483 Creoled 703 German 703 Irish 573 Pea 876 Potato 876 Powder for — 471 Page. Spanish 375 Stirabout 571 Strawberries 307, 332 Canned 156 Frozen 333,334 Meringue 333 Mock 333 Oranged 333 With whipped cream333 When in season 919 Bturgeo.v, baked 285 Steaks 285 When in season 919 SnET, to'clarify 99 Succotash 872 Winter 872 Sugar. Caramel 1.30 Crackling 130 Feathered 130 Spun 130 Souftle 130 Threads 142 To clarify 129 SWEET-BREAUS 547 And oyster pie 5.50 Baked 547 Blanching 1049 Broiled 548 Croqui ttes 5.50 F'icassed 548 Fried 549 Fritters 550 Larded 549,550 » Sandwiches 5.50 Skewered 549 Stewed 549 Vol-au-vcnts 550 With orange juice 547 With pease 547 Syrup. Lemon 223 Maple, to can 150 Orange 223 Touso 149 Table. Cooks time 913,914 Of measure 915 Of weight 916 Of foods 917,919 Steamed grain 691 Tarts. Apple 6.32 Almond 6.33 Chocolate 633 Cocoa-nut 633 Coventry 633 Cream 633 Currant 634,636 Custard 634 English banbury 634 Gutter 635 Jelly 6.35 Ixnnon 6.3.5 Macaroon 635 Orange 635 Prune 636 Raisin 6.36 Raspberry 636 Rice 634 Sand 99 Strawberry 6.36 Triangle 6.% INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 1281 Page Tatty. Everton 141 Hickory-nut 142 Tea. Am lait 215 Best 205 Cannister 208 Cozy 205 Float 206 For forty 215 Iced 212,214 Lemon 215 Making 204 Mixtures .-...207 Stand 206 Varieties of 206 When to drink 204 Teacup, regulaiion.... 63 Teal 355 Fried 371 Roast 371 Terraptn. Fricasseed 817 In the shell 817 Stewed 817 Tisane. Date 223 Fig.... 223 Prune 223 Toad in hole 482 Toast 57 Anchovy 57 AsparHgus 58 Breakfast 58 Butte ed 58 Cheese and egg 58 Chicken 58 Codfish 58 • Cream 58 Dry 59,60 Egg 59 Excellent 59 French '. 59 Lemon 59 Meat 57 Marrow-l)one 60 Mennouite 59 Oyster 59^60 Rack 57,1239 Salmon 60 Sausage 60 Tomato 60 Tongue 60 Vegetable 57 Water 60 Tomatoes. Baked 872 Braised 873 Candied 343 Canned 159 Fried 873 In brine 880 Scalloped 873 Sliced 873 Stewed 873 Stuffed 872 Toast 874 With eggs 874 With gravy 874 With meat ...874 With onions 874 With peppers 873 With rice 874 With vinegar 873 Page. ToNGue. Baked 492 Baked, spiced 493 Boiled 493 Braised 494 Fillets 496 Fried 494 In Jelly 496 Larded 495 Pickled 494 Potted 495 Scalloped 495 Stewed 495 Toast 495 Turkey. Boiled 714 Boned 715 Croquettes 720 Ga aitune 715 Jellied 719 Larded 716 Pie 720 Pressed 701 Pudding 567 Ready for plumpiuglO')0 Roast 717 Scalloped 719 Soup 720 Steamed ■..719 Stewed 720 Tobone lO.iO To cut up 1050 Turn-overs 711 Wild 719 With celery 714 Wiih chestnuts 718 With macaroni 714 With oysters 718 With pork 714 When in season 919 Turn-overs 613 Fruit 020 Peach 626 Veal 710 Trifle 51,102 Ambushed 123 French 142 Lemon ....123 Sugar for 131 Tkipe. Baked 496 Broi'ed 497 Creoled 498 Fricasseed 497 Fried 397 Lyonaise 498 Pickled 417 Soused 497 With onion sauce — 498 Trout. Baked 277.285,286 Brook . . 286 Boiled brook 286 Bro led brook 286 When in season 919 Turnips. Baked 874 Fricasseed 875 Fried 874 Diced 875 Greens 875 Mashed .^75 Pickled 875 Wheainseason 919 Page. With eggs 875 Vanity. Banana 407 Chocolate 406,407 Lemon 406. 4 7 Orange 406 Pine-apple 406 Strawberry 406 Vanities 298 Veal. And ham 533 And oysters 533 Blanquette of 535 Breast of 535 Cakes 532 Collops 529, 583 Creoled 535 Curry ...630 Curried 583 Cullets 530, 531 Dice -....584 Fillet of 535,537.584 Fricandeau of 536 Fricandelles 531 Fricassee 5.31 Grenadines of 536 Hashed 583 Loaf 532 Marbled 529 Masked 577 Molded 460, 583 Olives 532 Oysters 533 Pate 532 Patties 584 Pie 507 Pot-pie .5.33 Potted 400, 465, 529 Pudding 584 Quenelles 537 Ragvut of 510, 584 Relish .. 584 Rissoles of 537 Roost 536 With oysters 538 Wiih macaroni 585 Vegetables 852 Bed of 468 Color of 852 Cutters 852 Garnishes 978 Greens 853 Hash 876 Kettle 8.V2 Medley .'80 Ragout 506 Steamer for 854 Stews 876 Time to cook... .913, 914 To cook &')2 To keep 853 To prepare 852 Water for 852 Venison 3rS A la mode 373 Broiled .371 Fried .IENTARY I]Sa)EX. 1283 INDEX— SUPPLEMENTARY. Page. Accidents 1179, 1182 Almonds, to buy,.. ..1031 Alum water Forinscc'.s 997 Anchovies, to buy.. 1027 Aj47 Ne:it 1075 To build 1073 To clean 9'J9, 1077 To ventilate. . ..1074, 1075 Up prouud 1075 Ckmk.vt. Diamond 1245 For cliina '.►44,993 For cracked stove.s 1236 For dishes 995 For jet 1188 For rubber l:.'44 Good ' ight dres.s for 1232 Pen for 1106 Stockings 1080, 124S Teething in 1114 Where to i)lay 1108 CHILI{LA1.\.S....11S0, 1187 Chkesk, homemade.. 1002 <'HOKIN<; 1180 CHOI.KItV MIXTLKK. .1147 And soft water 1152 CiDKK, to keep 1081 CiSTKKX 1250 CiJN'KKU.'^, to remove 994 C'l.OTllKS To put awav 94C, 949 Ci.nTiijNc, liiglit 1120 ('hanging 1147 In winter 1121 The feel 1122 Cl.OTH. Cruml) 972 Dish 95C Nap on 1240 Co A I , how to use 1004 Jlard and .soft l«;4 CoAr^ VASK I2r>4 CorKi?OA(;ni:s 913 Con, to buy 1027 VnKK 1034 COI.DS 1122, 1144, 1148, 1149 11.54 Catarrh 1149 In head 1149 I'revejit taking 1149 Page. Water for 1170 CoLLAiiS. not fitting. .1192 COLOlt CONTUAST.S...124C COMFOUTKK.S, tieing.1247 P.e.st 927 Co.Ml'LKXTIOX 1194 Wash for ii»4 ]5enzoiu for 1194 C(.MPKKSSES 1172 CONSl Ml'TIOX 1157 CoxsTIl'ATIOX 1148, 1156 CoKAi., artificial 944 Coi:n.<, cure for 1150 CfUJM-.nKAD, tOCUt. ..1238 ("OKX, dried grated . . . 1242 COUOH 1155 Hot water for 1147 Mixture 1152 CoVKlt I'low er pot 1208 For jars 1239 I'or milk pans 1210 Pack for 998 Under 951 Cows AXD TUUXII'S 1242 CiJABs, to buy 1027 Todress 1052 Ckkamekies 1061 Ckoup 1157 Bib for 11.57 Cl'PBOAllD 998 Baking 997 Spoon 997 CUSTAKD curs 1238 Cuts 1145 Days, rainy 943 DiAKKIKEA 1154 Chronic 1145 Oil for 1150 Dl KT Errors in 1125 In disease 1147 Inliealth 1147 DixxER 952 Courses 959, 905 Dessert for 970 Host and liostess 953 Hints for 966, %7 Hospitality, vulgar. .9,03 How to give a 959 Invitations 953 Manners at 954 Of live course^' 969 School 1253 Dish Cloth 1002, 1237 Cloth, wire 9ss Drainer 990,999,1241 Warmer 973 Washers 988 Washing 1248 DU'THEKIA IICO AUopalhy for 11C2 Cau-sesof IIOI Homeopathy for 1 ICO Suli)hurfor llGl Water for 1175 DiSIXKECTANT 1250 DuAWEK, liandy 974 DUESS .•.lli'2 Art in 1213 151ack as a 1218 ("onimon 1121 Kcouomy in 1212 Page. Fitne,ss in luVi How to 1J12 How to cut 1221 How to lit 1223 How to make 1224 Making over 1216 J'retty 1213 Kenovating, 1225 Silk, to clean 1089, 1095 1225 Satin, to clean 1089 Working 1221 Dkess-.m.vkixg At home 1212 Altering black silks 1217 Bargains V220 Jionnets and hats. ..1210 Boys wear 1231 Care of abandoned things 1217 Care of clothes 1214 Care of kid gloves. .1216 Care of shawls 1215 Care of shoes 1216 Cashmeres and bro- cades 1218 Cleaning clothing. ..1215 Crape 1227 Dyeing 1227 Elderly ladies. 1232 (irease spots.. .1225, 1226 How to save mate- rial 1218 How to shop 1218 How to iLse patterns 1222 Poverty 1213 Out door costumes 1220 per Papatterus 1222 Drowxixg 1183 duuxkexxe.ss 1152 Du<'KS, to buy 1025 Wild 1026 Dust, to remove 943 Pan 1249 Dyspepsia 1123 Easel, tile 124T Eau, the 1191 Foreign bodies in... 1181 Eels, to buy 1027 Ego-plaxt 1028 Eficis, to keep 1243 Soft 1247 Erysipelas 1148 E.XTRACT, flavoring.. 1001 I.«mon 1005 Orange 1006 Hose 1005 Vanilla 10O4 Eye, lime in 1145 Blackened 1148 Dirt in 1146 Wash 1149, 1240 Weak 1140 Fate, rare of 1190 Powder for 1189 F.VIXTIXfJ 1180 Feathers, to bleach 12.57 Female wkakne.ss ii72 FEiutternii!k mulled .. 1135 Buttermilk stew 1134 Cinnamon tea 1136 Chicken broUi.llSl, 1138 Clam broth 1136 Common sense 1144 Corn meal gruel 1141 Cracked wheat pud- ding 1138 Cream soup Ii34 Crust cofi'cc 1134 Currant shrub ll35 Kggiiiuel 1134 English gruel 1135 Fever diink 1135 Fruit fauna 1138 Good toast 1140 (Jiahani gems 1136 Crease from broths. 1134 .lellies Ils5 Ivumyss to make 1138 lA'moii egg nog 1138 Meat, for invalids... 1140 Milk porridge.. 1135, 1139 Mutton broih 1138 Mutton tea 1142 Oatmeal blaiic mange 1135 Oalmeal cakes 1137 Oatmeal crackers. ..1141 Oatmeal pie crust.. .1137 Oatmeal relish 1139 Oatmeal wafers 1140 Oldtime food 1141 I'aiuula 1136 I'arched rice 1134 I'lepared flour 1139 I'oached egg 1137 IJaspberry relish 1134 ];ice jelly 1136 Bice, water 1142 Sago custard 1134 Sago jelly pudding. .1136 Sassafras drink 1134 Sea moss fariiie 1135 Stewed oysters 1139 Strawberry acid 1137 Tapioca je"lly 1136 Tamarind whey 11.34 Uncooked egg 1138 Vegetable soup 1135 Warming cup 1135 Wheat pudding 1134 Wine whey. 1134 Frames 1181 Flies off gilt... 943 I'uttv off window 943 Eustic 944 Freckles 1189, 1193 Freezing 1 181 Fruit, to buy 1029 Gathering 1078 Shelves.. .. 1074 Sun printing on 1255 To keep 1078 FUEI , comparative value of 920 Fuller's Purifier 1248 Page. Furniture, to buy.. 924 Filling 1238 Polish 932, 1239 Polisli, magic 938 Spots on 1238,1245 To refinish 941 Varnished 1242 Furs, care of 935 Dyes foi- 1252 Game, to preserve 1024 to buy 1025 To carve 1057 Gapes 1;l54 Garden, bulbs for.. .1201 Flowers 1197 Out-door 1199 To plant in 12C0 Windows 1208 Garments, outside .. 1241 Garnishes and sauces 975 For flsh 976 For game 977 For meat 976 For poultry 977 For sahid 978 For vegetables 978 Cas-lighter 1236 Gathering, chronicll48 Geese, to buy K25 To carve 1058 Gi;NER A L Sugg es- TIONS 940 Glue 1236 Grain, weight of 1245 Grapes, to buy 1030 To keep ! 1079 Grease, to remove 1086, 1095 To cleanse 1100 Gridiron, care of... 994 Groceries, to buy 1031, 1194 Hair, dandruff iu....US8 Falling out 1240 Food lor 1189 Oils 1188 Superfluous 1190, 1244 Tonics 1187 Wash 1243 Hams, to select 1023 Buckeye 1042 Philadelphia, 1043 Small 1043 Suggestions for 1C43 To carve 1056 To cure 1041 To keep 1044 To soak 1042 Virginia 1043 With vinegar 1043 \ork 1043 Hands 1191 and face 1188 Chapped . .1145, 1151, 1241 Stains on 1189 Hanging 1181 Hat bands, to renovate 1245 Headaches 1167 Heart, palpitation of 1168 Hearth, clieap 1251 Heater, grate 997 Table 998 Herring 1128, 1244 128G SUPPLEMKNTAUY IXDEX. PaRc. \242 HKil 1119 1129 1017 HEMORnHAf;r:.s.. lIlClvOUY NlTS, To Iroslicii Hints, Floral About iiuuUutiii For the well For sick room... To t'liiploycr ^„., To employed ..1019 11i.\<;ks, rreaUintr... 943 HOAU.SKXESS 1146 Hot WATKit 1153 HoL'.SE, burning ngi Jleat for 924 Insects ' I [ 1251 House cleamxc;.' . 928 l?e.si\vayof !co Fall !il .1237 10 clean linssia 1235 IRONS to clean lo.S5 Arranw ]'4i V,'"'? "t" 1094 |;''it 1087 rioni .scorching... . i085 iKONING, 1085 Cuds and collars... 10.S6 -l^;i.V 1084 JAKs< to dcan.sc 994 To Wash 999 Jaundice 1145.1158 Jeweluv, toeleaii.se 1187. 1191 KALSOMININC 93(j Kettle, to clean 980,990,1239 KICKIXU cow l'>37 KiDOI.OVES 1237 Kid SHOES 1188 Kindlings, to make 995 KlTlIFEN 982 Apron 7.98(5 Leononiy in..990, 991, 1247 Floors of Lamps lor..., Mat Pantry Sink Steamer Systematic... Tray Wrinkles „ „ Knives, care of....'.".'.'.9istj And spoon tray 986 Cement for 994 tyio|)ping 998 Handles |o;;7 Onion 9;i) .982 ..9.S3 ..!)8(; . 98.-} ..9S9 . . 9.S5 ..982 ..986 ati ■D . Page. Rust on 9.>4 To clean .'993 LAlJOlt-SAVINO cox- Tl.I\•A^•CEs 949 I. A ci-.s , t o clean loss ;^"Pack i-24)i r<) wash 1093 L MP., to buy » 1023 Tocarve....' ior« La ill', care of 984 Chimiievs <)44 Fi.xture.s...... ;;i248 {^«''t«^'- l-'.i5 Wicks 94"; Lantekx, good '. V.'gos Lai;d, trying 1014 Lalndkv, the i082 I'ot-* 10S5 i A"'>S 1082 J,.EAKs jo8-> Iuchinmeys...;'.'.".;;i23(J in roofs 1235 Le.ANNESS 1190 Leaves, to l)ress..'.".'!l208 Lxten.siou 974 Le.^ion.s, to use... . "993 , l^t'^t 1030 LlEE-rUESEItVEU.. 1179 Lights, tai»er i|-,;{ 111 cistern usj LiGHTI.VG 1K)D .l'-,7 Lighting CI5EAM... 945 fi'-iKS. 1200 Li.ME, in cans i«7 Water \_\:£j Ll.NEX TO I5LKACII...1246 Liniment I145, ii4G ,4'-<^^>": 1150 i lierokoe 1147 Jlagic... ,151 Liquid, soldering... .1002 Lobster, to buy 1027 To dress " 1052 Lock-j w H5.> Lounge, home-made. 1251 Lunch Sinnmer 968 Winter * 971 Mackerel. salt.'J.".'.io28 MAiMong 1246 I)oor ,^ 94^ 1-cononiical..!. w Table 97., Matches, friction .'.;■. 1242 J^LATCHSAEE l'>46 M A ITR ES ES ] . ' .9->7 ( 'over for .'. .".".".' 7)28 Maimu.e, care of .'.*.".'." .939 Oil Iroui io3g To dean io;{7 IMaimouaai ■ 'ifj^o Meals, iininber "oi' 111:1. 1127 Mk.\ l, lUick wheat . ia3i !;•"," 1032 ,/'''• 10:^,1081 AiEATS, curing.. .1037, 1261 In hot weather iwo ANithoutcuiiiig 1039 AIEASURES .)<)-, SIkdicine, to droi>.'"'ii4{) ,,^P0<>" « 1241 M ELTED SNOW . . . I'l};-, MK.NDING 944 Mkn.stru.\tion!! iico •>. P'lge. ^|i^K lae Mm dew, to take out.l086 Mi LK straining loco And maniui H46 Mirrors, to clean.... 934 31i.\TUKK, cleaning... 938 ^{"LKM H89, 1239 M OS43 Muslin, to bleach ■.".i'.iogo Mushrooms 1028 M I TTON, to buy. . . ' " ■ 1022 To cut up 1037 lo carve. 1055 ri.viLs. to drive 1235 XEURALGIA 1149 Nii'PLEs, to haiden.'.*.ii45 -,'^«re 1146 i*«OSE 1191 Oil, to take out....'."!ios5 {"' f"""! -1067 l^roportion of 10G7 Oil-cloths, to clean.. 938 Oiiwtuiss 1174 Ol.NTMENT ramphorated 1148 . 1155 ..1150 ,.1151 ,.1032 .1080 .1240 123G Ooldeii Itch ■■■■ Magnetic ; .. Olives Onions, to keep.." Flavor Odors :.',[ Oranges, to buy 1030 Oysters, to buy 1028 Overshoes 1237 Packs ....1173 Pail, shrinking of'...'.' 943 Pour 1J74 Pains ii4r, Paint ^ ^'•"sbes ]2« Buckets 1239 ^olorof '.■.'1236 »ry 1236 hinellof 944 To dry ! 1245 Totakeont .';."l08ii ^^^"^':'<" 123.5 lAINTINiJ 936 ("are of <)39 To clean before ..1*38, 939 1 A X ('rumri brush and. 970 >«ew till 98,". Pancake LIFTER.... gas Paper Cases On tin ■; Papering .[ ' Papered wall/io dean Parcels, care of.'.'.". P.\ RTi ES , Breakfa.st . 9.55 „Evx'ning ,,.55 PARTRIDciE, to carve. 1058 1 ASTE, good 12:J,'> Kverlastiiig... . i->47 Perpetual '..'! 94s iKAClIES lOil l^HA KS 1031 Pearls, to keep. . .'.' .".1187 .. 973 .. 94<> . 937 ..' 940 944 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 1287 P*l*^o. Pk AS . to buy 1029 Tokeep , 1080 Pkppp:k. white 1033 Pkkfumeuy IIDU PuEASAjvT, to carve . . 1058 Piano To keep and dust. . . 026 Pi KCK-l!A(iS 1245 PicTL'KES, to hang... 945 Piles 14G Plants, beddiujj 203 Hints about 209 Hou.se 210 Witliout a lire 207 Plasters, mustard.. 151 Plastek of Pakis.. mending 945 PLACgUK HANGER... 1250 Pleurisy 1145 Pocket Apron. 984 Clotlies-phi 1091 Duster 928 Slioes 949 Poison, antidotes to. .1185 Polishing 998 Iron 1085,1087,1090 Sliirts ..1087 Poi!K,tobuy 1023 Pickled 1042,1044 To carve , 105G To cut up 1037,1041 Potato es 1029 To deep 1080 Poultry, to dress.. .1049 Food for 1239 To market 1033 Pounder, clotlies 109G Prints, to vvasli 1093 PuMVS, to tliaw- out. . .1245 From freezing 1242 Quails 1058 QUINCY 1145 liARRiTS, to carve 1056 raisins 1032 Rashes 1153 Rats 1238 Trail 1249 Red edges en books. .1244 Refrigerator, to clean 1237 Reg.tster, safe 1253 Rheumatism.. .1145, 1151 Rice 1032 Ring, napkin 973 Room , to clean 926 Bath 928 Bed 926 Books ill each 9^8 Closet ill bath 928 Dining , 951 Finish for 947 Guest 927 Sewing 928 Sick 1129 Sitting 926 Store 1075 To dust 925 Rope, new 1252 Rose slugs 1207 Roup 1252 Rugs, rag 945 Rust, on plows 1248 SAL\E for P.URNS.. .1149 Buokeye Ii53 Page. Castle 12G1 Conklius 11.50 Healing 1158 Sa lt. too much 992 In milk gravy 992 For |)reserving meat 1037 Scales, good 999 Scallops, to buy, 1028 Scarlet fever"1109, 1159 Scortc;h, to take out. 1029 Screens 1250 Screws, rusted 944 Seeds, to keep 1238 To sfart 1250 Self posk.ssion 1179 Shelves, hanging.... 1261 Sh ekts, eare of 944 Sh iRTs, to do up 109S Shirt p.osoms Enamel for 1088 To do lip 1097 Shocks iiso, 1IS2 Shingles 1236 Shoes, blacking for. .1188 Care of 1247 Castor oil for 1188 Durable 1238 Shrubs 1204 Sickroom Disinfectant for 1133 Neatness in 1130 Quiet in iiso Small lamp for 1131 UteiLsils in 1131 AVash for 1133 SiCK-HEADACIlE 1145 1147 Side-board, dustless 973 Si lk. to keep 1243 Tar from 1240 Silverware 944,947 1235, 1237. Sink, moveable . . , 996 Iron 996 Skin, to protect 1148 Sleeplessness 1147 1154, 1241 Sleeve-protector.. 1241 Smells, bad 944 Snow ON roof 1241 Socks to darn 12.39 Soap 943 Bark , 108O Boiled 1100 Boiler 1260 Economy in 993 Extract "of 1088 Family 1099 Oall 1091 Hard 1032 Hard time 1089 Sun 1099 Yankee shaving 1189 Sore throat 1148 1150, 1154, 1159. Spatula for tongue . . 1162 Sponge, to soften 1255 Basket 1191 Sprains, ..1146, 1147, 1151 Stains, berrv 1236 Egg 992 Fruit 1190 Ink 933 Ink from wood,. . .938 939 Nitrate of silver 1088 Oil books 1235 Page. Tea 992 Stammering 1146 Starch Coffee 1089 F'ine 1093 Flour 1098 StIFF^OINTS 1145 Stings, bee ii48 Of insects 1179 Stoves, care of 938 Gas 996 Holders 993 Oil .996, 1253 Polish 1235,1243 Trimmings 1237 STRAw,bleaching 1246 Suffocation 1182 Sugar, kinds of lp68 Best 1033 In food 1067 To buy 1033 To preserve meat.. .1038 Vanilla 1005 SWEETBREADS,tO buyl024 To blanch 1049 Table Clothes, to clean.... 1000 Clearing 950 Cover 994 Folding 999 For dinner 959 Lesives 972 Linens 1002 Mats 972 Movable 1247 Of foods . . 1070, 1071, 1072 Of starch 1066 Ornament 973 Outfit 955 Toilet 1193 Ware, wire 992 Tea, tokeep 991 Clover ...1152 Ground 993 To buy 1032 Teeth 1192, 1193 Terrapins, to buy . . .1028 To dress 1053 Tetter 1188 Tin, to mend 944 To prevent rusting.. .997 Toscour 1235 Tomatoes 1029 Tongue, to buy 10'23 To pickle 1038, 1040 Depresser 1162 Toothache 1146, 11481156 Trichinae 1145 Tripk, to clean lOli To buy 1041 TU' NIPS 1029 Turkeys, to buy 1025 Boiled 1057 Roast 1057 Tocai-ve 1054 Umbrella stand .. .1254 UnDER-CO VER 951 Utensils, cooking. . 98? Ice cream loif Kitchen 1014 Veal, to buy 102;< To carve X055, 114^^ To cut up lOSJ 1288 .SUPPLEMENTAKY INDEX. \ EGETARI.KS Mode of preparing . .913, 914 Packing 1081 Siilad Kwi Time to cook 913, 914 Time to digest . . .913, 914 ' To l)uy 1028 To iiceo 1080, lasl Vklvkt, to restoie.. .108(! Vkins, varicose .1144 Venisox, to buy 102C, 105G Toi.-arve 1055 Ventilation 1121 VeNTILATi )H 1243 Vines, elinil)iii{; il'02 Waiteus, instmetion to 9C0 9C4 Walk.s, tokeepcleau 1236 Warts ]i8!) Wash-basins 1244 Beiiel) 1087 Washing. Blaiikfts 1091 Brown linen lOi'O Black dresses 1090 Caslnnere 1089 Cambric .1093 Colored muslin 1090 Day 1082 Dislies 990 Pacre. Di.sb-wipcrs 1089 Deiii ate muslins 1091 Feathers 1087 Fluid 933 1090 Glove.s 1090 I-we 1093, 1094 Liice curtains 109G Lace ruchings 1092 I~t\vn 1094 lAiiUt fabrics 1093 Milk, lor 1087 Kcd table linen 1086 Kibboiis 1090 Silk dress 1092 Silkhdkf 1093 Silk underwear 1091 Thread lace 1090 To preserve colors. .1087 1089 With turpentine 1092 Woolen goods, 1093, 1097 Waste riPES, to clean 940 Water, copperas 993 Cabbage 997 Poisonous 996 Pnre looi To keep ice 945 To soften . . . .943, 944, 994 Treatment 11G9 WeATUEU STKIPS .... 1256 Page. Weeds, to destroy.... <.m Wens 1147 Weights and mea.s- L'RKS f915, 916 Whitewash, hard... 938 Wh e.v food is j n . . SEASON 917,919 Wine, unfermented.. 124.5 WllOOI'ING COLUII. ..1149 1166 Windows, to wash 931, 938 Hook . . 1249 Icy 943 Kitchen 997 Mica 1241 To clean 992 Wood 1241 Ebonlzing 12,37 I'iling 1-242 To buy lOM To harden I2,r) Wool, to cleanse 1246 Worms. Cabbage i24l In horses- 1246 On gooseberiies 10S2 Tape 1149 Work-hasket 949 WorND, poisonous 1179 From rustv nad 1146 Punctured" 118S <^^'% vy'% .^^^■^- = ' c^-^ - ' ■> o O - ■'-''V .vV ^ o't' ^/- v\^' * <<, c,^ ^^- .: ^.s^' ^^ . %c;^^ ■ : "^.^^ '^ ■ " V , . 'C'- " ^ ' O' ... ^y ' s - v'^' ^ .0 Vv'7:,.^Xo^ V' v>' ^'\,^>^^c^^ 0^ ^\'Z.'^' c- -. ^^,* .^- .,.%'" ^'\r ,.^ .0 ,-0' '^ "^^ » V. * 8 1 ^ o 0^ ^