^' ^ A ./ '% -a. ' o # Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2011 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress littp://www.arcliive.org/details/twelvetliousandmiOOIiutt TWELVE THOUSAND MILES OVER LAND AND SEA; OR, WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. BY V Key. ^yiLLIAM HUTTON, Pastor of Greenwich Street Presbyterian Church, Philadelphia. ^ ...vf66o.>y. * PHILADELPHIA : GRANT, FAIRES & RODGERS, PRINTERS, 52 & 54 North Sixth Street. 1878. ^NiS!'^TW THE LIBRARY Of CONGRESS WASHINGTOM Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by WILLIAM HUTTON, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. 0. '^^LA.^^m^ 'MM'.m^lM,^'!^'*' %i-^ TO MY ALMA MATER, WITH HEARTY WISHES FOR THE COXTIXUED PROSPERITY OF HAMILTON COLLEGE, THESE "wanderings IN EUROPE" ARE MOST GRATEFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. eA9 '■'/SAT me down to build a boat And set it on the sea afloat: 1 7vronght it with a loving will. Putting to task my tit most skill : I gave its form the highest grace My hand and eye knezo how to trace. And beantijied its eve7y part According to my native art. I set the mast, and spread the sail To catch the softliest-breathing gale^ And then I sent it forth to go Whichever way the wind might bloto. Who knows? It ?nay be lost at sea^ Or come with treasure back to me J'' Mac Kelt ar. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page 1. Frontispiece. Windsor Castle. 2. Blarney Castle 34 3. St. Giles 132 4. Heidelberg 232 5. St. Mark's and Ducal Palace 284 6. The Ancient Eoman Forum 308 7. The Forum in Kuins 310 PREFACE. "A tiling of beauty is a joy forever"; and so is an excursion to the "Old World." It can never be for- gotten. It opens up a "new world" of thought and imagination. It is both a stimulus and tonic. It strengthens the body, invigorates the mind, and cul- tivates the taste. The scenery is so charming, and the customs and costumes are so i3eculiar, that the tourist is being continually surprised and delighted. And this is true of both city and country. The farm- houses, fences, trees, birds, flowers, and garb of plodding peasants are quite unlike to those of his na- tive land. And the cities and towns, with narrow, crooked streets, old, many-cornered buildings, and ivy-covered walls, contrast strikingly with American cities now "springing up." Then, the means and methods of locomotion, the peculiarly constructed railroad cars, dog and donkey Avagons, jDrcsent scenes amusing and grotesque. The castles, ivied ruins, monuments, museums, libraries, art galleries, exhibi- tion palaces, royal parks, stately cathedrals, charm by their beauty, inspire by their grandeur, and instruct by their treasures of knowledge and of art. VI PREFACE. Having been appointed a delegate, in 1874, to the General Assembly of the Irish Presbyterian Church, we were permitted, after the duties of that office were discharged, to wander over "land and sea." These *' wanderings " extended through Ireland, Scotland, England, Wales, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and France. Purchasing the best guide books, maps, and time tables, and selecting the routes that seemed most pleasant, we traveled alone. By this method perfect freedom was enjoyed. We were neither consigned to hotel keepers, omnibus drivers, or mule- teers, nor conducted hastily through art galleries, libraries, and cathedrals, by impatient guides. Some 400 miles were traveled on foot. The poets con- ducted us to many a shining lake, shady bower, and sparkling stream; and our pages are adorned with quite a number of selections from their writings. Sketches of these w^anderings — published in seve- ral religious journals — were widely read, and favor- ably received ; lectures were also prepared, descriptive of the places visited, and scenes witnessed. Friends — lay and clerical — suggested that the " notes " and " sketches " be put in permanent form, and generously subscribed for a large number of " copies." This modest little volume presents itself in response to these friendly solicitations. The writer, young, and inexperienced at book-making, pleads for that kindly indulgence usually granted the " first literary venture." William Hutton. Philadelphia, March, 1878. CONTENTS. Chap. I. Ten days upon the Ocean 9-23 New York Harbor — Farewell Greetings — Passengers and Crew — The Staggering Steamer — A Bitter Experience — Man Over- board — Concert — Sabbath Services — Land— Valentia — Queens- town. IRELAND. Chap. II. Queenstown to Killarney 24-47 Cork — Shandon Bells — Railroad Cars— Blarney Castle- Kissing the Blarney-Stone— Lakes of Killarney — Muckross Abbey — In- nisfallen Abbey. Chap. III. Killarney to Dublin .48-66 Home of Oliver Goldsmith — Connemara — Isles of the Blest — Irish Peasants — Fairy -land — Birds — Flowers — Depopulated Country. Chap. IV. Dublin to Derry 67-96 Dublin— Trinity College— St. Patrick's Church— Castle— The Boyne— Belfast — Irish General Assembly — Giant's Causeway — Walls of Derry. SCOTLAND. Chap. V. Greenock to Loch Katrine 97-118 Highland Mary's Grave — Glasgow — Churches — Preachers — Wynds — Loch Lomond — Wild Moor — Lady of the Lake. Chap. VI. Loch Katrine to 3Ielrose Abbey, 119-liS The Trossachs — Stirling Castle — Bannockburn — Home of the Queen of Scots -Edinburgh Castle— St. Giles— Covenanters — Mtdrose — Abbottsford — Dry burg Abbey . vii VIU CONTE^'iTS. ENGLAND. Chap. VIL Cheviot Hillsto Windsor Castle, 144-173 York — Birmingham — Eugbv — Oxford — Cambridge — London — Bank — Tower — Museums— Lords and Commons -Parks — Zoo- logical Garden. Chap. VIIL Windsor Castle to North 6'ea... 174-201 Windsor Park — The Queen — Reception at Buckingham -Crys- tal Palace — St. Panl's — Westminster Abbey — Spurgeon's Ta- bernacle — Parker's Temple — Hyde Park — Sabbath in London — ■ Expenses. BELGIUM. Chap. JX Antiverj) to Waterloo 202-209 Antwerp — Dog Wagons — Dress — Cathedral — City of Brussels — Beer Gardens— Sunday Dog Markets — King's Palace — Waterloo. GERMANY. Chap. X. Aix la Cha^^elle to Basle 210-238 Old Church— Relics — Cologne — Bonn — The Rhine — Mentz — Weisbaden— Frankfort — Worms — Heidelberg — Baden Baden — Strassburg. SWITZERLAND. Chap. XL Basle to lit. St. Bernard 239-270 Zurich — Lucerne — ^Bern — Lausanne — Lake Leman — Geneva — Mt. Blanc — "M«rde Glace" — Climbing St. Bernard — Monks — Dogs. ITALY. Chap. XIL St. Bernard to Borne 271-303 Aosta — Ivrea — Milan — A^'enice — Padua — Ferrara — Bologna — ■ Apennines — Florence — Arezzo— Perugia— Churches on the Hills. Chap. XIII. Rome to Naples and Turin 304-357 Rome — Hills — Monuments — Colosseum — Palace? — Vatican — St. Peter's — Catacombs — Protestant Churches — Naples — Pompeii — Pisa — Genoa — T uri n. FRANCE. Chap. XIV. Mt. Cenis to Straits of Dover. . .358-370 Mt. Cenis — Paris — Napoleon's Tomb — St. Cloud — Bois de Bo- logne — Louvre — Pere Lachaise — Parisian Sabbath. HOMEWARD BOUND. Straits of Dover to New York Harbor 371-372 Wales — Ocean — Storm — Highlands — New York Harbor. WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. CHAPTER I. TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. Wednesday, May 20th, dawns with a sky clear and cloudless. The harbor of New York presents a beautiful scene as the mists rise from the waters and disappear at the presence of the sun. Huge ferry-boats float hither and thither freighted with hundreds of men and women going to their ac- customed toil. Lively little tugs steam merrily seaward in quest of some wind-forsaken ship, or other hapless craft, that may require aid. The stately ocean steamer moves slowly to her mooring, as if wearied by her journey over the sea. Sturdy laborers unburden the richly-freighted ships that lie along the wharves. The sailors have climbed the masts, and are busy in the rigging preparing 1 9 10 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. to meet the winds that so wildly sweep the sea. Away in the distance the white- winged boat glides gracefully over the shining waters. Here and there the shrill sound of the steam-whistle — the boatmen's salutation — startles the stillness of the morning, and awakens the echoes along the neigh- boring shore. As the hour of 9 approaches, the scene at the Cunard wharves, Jersey City, is lively and exciting. Heavily laden express wagons thunder through the gates, and drop their costly burdens near the waiting ship. Omnibus, coach and cab crowded with sea-bound passengers, whirl in eager haste to the appointed place. Hundreds of men and women exchanging hurried glances, move upon the decks, or stand upon the wharf. But the last belh has rung, the parting moment come, and friends must bid adieu — some never more to meet ! How touching is that scene — hands are closely clasped, loved ones are embraced, the kiss of affection is impressed, sobs give ut- terance to feeling, and eyes are dimmed with tears. All aboard! And the steamer is in motion. Slowly she swings into the current, and her prow is pointed towards the sea. The wharf is fairly white v/ith handkerchiefs wildly waving, and many parting kisses are flung from tiny fingers. Steadily and gracefully our ship moves over the waveless waters, and at 11.30 we have passed TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 11 beyond the " Narrows/' and the pilot is dis- missed. The city and its gleaming spires have disap- peared ; the '{ Highlands ^' have sunk beneath the sea, and at 4 o'clock the sandy shore of Long Island passes slowly out of sight. Our gallant captain stands upon the " bridge/' and puts the men in motion. His method is pe- culiar. A whistle, and the sailors rush upon the deck ; a second whistle, and up the ladders they go — nimble-footed fellows — like a troop of squir- rels ; a third w^histle, and they swing oif and begin to unfurl the sails. But to give unity and effect to their labors they unite in singing. And just here we have one of those strange, weird, sailor songs, so often the precursor of fearful blasts, and the accompaniment of v/ild surgings by the sea. How mournfully it sounds, and what a feeling of sadness it excites ! As we listen, a sense of loneliness steals through the soul. We become conscious of the situation. We realize, that "out on an ocean all boundless we ride," and that we are not " homeward bound." Home and friends, green fields and fragrant flowers, are behind us, while around and beneath is the ever- changing, billowy, treacherous sea ! The eye sweeps the horizon without discovering an ob- ject. The land upon which we so recently gazed, 12 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. has strangely and suddenly disappeared. The sea and the sky are all that we behold. And even now the sky is overcast, and the scud- ding clouds herald the coming storm. But how grand the sea ; how strange and varied its motion ! Look at those swelling waves with snowy crests, chasing each other past the plunging steamer. How they whirl and leap, like school- boys at play ! How buoyant, joyous, free, seem these briny billows. They submit to no restraint. The cap- tain's voice and the seaman's song are alike un- heeded. Onward they rush impelled by the rising Avind. We wonder not that so many of the young are attracted by the sea. Its very movements inspire. Its wide expanse, varying hue, and changeful voice, charm, fascinate. " Eoll on, thon deep, dark-blue ocean — roll! Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain ; Man marks the earth with ruin — his control Stops with the shore ; " " Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, Calm or convulsed, — in breeze, or gale, or storm, Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime. Dark-heaving ; boundless, endless, and sublime, The image of eternity — the throne Of the Invisible." The last sad refrain has been sung by the sail- TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 13 ors ; the sails are all set^ and the stiffening wind has stretched the canvas to its utmost tension. Our noble vessel, the Abyssinia, is one of the largest and staunchest ships of the Cunard line — ■ 370 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 35 feet deep. The ship's force numbers one hundred and thirty-seven men, and some half a dozen women. These are divided into three departments. The sailing department has 50 men ; the engineer's de- partment, 43 men, and the steward's 44 men and some half a dozen women. Each of these depart- ments is thoroughly organized ; every man is at his post, and every man expected to do his duty. The discipline is excellent. The men are kept constantly busy sweeping and swabbing the decks, burnishing the brass, and trimming the sail. The steward's department is quite popular, and admirably managed. The table is well furnished ; the waiters prompt and courteous. We have fresh (?) strawberries a thousand miles from land ! They are as rosy and red as if they had just dropt blushing from the bushes. There are a large number of passengers on board. All the cabins are full— even the steward's rooms are occupied. Among them are Americans from north and south, east and west; Canadians, English, Scotch, French, and a few Irish gentlemen, ^' all of the 14 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. olden time.'^ Various trades and professions have representatives — bankers^ merchants, doctors, cler- gymen of different denominations, and sundry poli- ticians. A number of ladies are going abroad ; some to improve their health, others to enlarge their experience, complete their education, or — kind fortune favoring — to change their name ! In the steerage, quite a number of stalwart men and sturdy women have taken passage. With some of these the trip is one of pleasure. They cross the sea to visit friends and cheer the hearts of aged parents. But with others how dif- ferent ! They have been unfortunate. 'No work could be obtained ; no friendly hand was out- stretched, and homeward they return hoping for better days in the sea-girt isle. And yet they are not utterly dejected. They are humorous and witty. Nor has the old fiddler lost his cunning. With what skill he draws that magic bow ! — and how the trembling strings give ex:pressi;bn to the feelings of his heart. How in the twilight hour he stirs the soles of his nervous auditors by his lively music; or, by a sudden change, moistens the eye of the sympathetic listener, by his tender and plaintive melodies ! During the first two days the decks are crowded ; the merry laugh is heard ; the steward's bell is responded to with delight; and the abundant food TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 15 is eaten in quantities that would startle the econo- mic proprietor of any modern boarding-house. But by the whirling waves, and rocking ship, the scene is changed. The decks are deserted ; the laughing has suddenly ceased, and the recently joyous company is sullen and silent. The few who appear at the summons of the steward, look, ap- parently, with unmingled disgust at the food he has provided. Here and there, along the ship's side, some suffering passenger casts wistful eyes at the hissing waters, and leans tenderly downward as if soliciting the sympathy of the sea. Cries, strange and startling, are heard in the cabins. The excited stewardess rushes along the narrow aisles as if the safety of the ship depended upon the celerity of her movements. The doctor, quick-footed, tramps "fore and aft," giving gentle hints, suggesting methods of treatment, and adding the required prescription. Our.shij^has suddenly become a floating hospital. Every Dody, and every object, seems to be at the point of dissolution and disintegration. The ex- pressions of dissatisfaction at the unsteadiness of the ship are frequent and emphatic. Some even wish for the wings of the storm, that they might fly homeward and be at rest. The experience is decidedly hitter. Not a few would willingly forego the pleasures promised in the future, in 16 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. order to be released from the pain experienced in the present. But the sky suddenly brightens, the wind blows less violently, and the sea grows calm. And what a change in the expressions and movements of the passengers! The decks are crowded ; the dining- room becomes a centre of attraction, and laughter is heard in the cabins. The recently staggering ship, impelled by wind and steam, moves over the less turbulent waves with surprising steadiness. We are now acclimated and prepared to enjoy the situation. True, it is novel, and yet it is de- lightful. The manner in which time is spent dif- fers with the taste of the individual. But a change of method is induced by the position in which we are placed. Several old friends were left on shore and new ones must be found to take their places. Business is at home, and so are the daily papers. Shopping must be dispensed with, and so must pastoral visitation. And yet how quickly time flies, and with what joy we meditate upon our isolation ! We do not forget absent friends, and yet we feel glad at the temporary separation. Peace, quiet, restfulness is ours. Hurry, anxiety, excitement, dwell not here. What a blessed relief from all things human ! The postman does not trouble us. That benevolent book-agent, whose unfathomable TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 17 valise holds specimen copies of all the recent pub- lications, no longer annoys by his irresistible im- portunities. Those hoary-headed beggars, whose mournful tales have moved the bread from the pantry to their pockets, are absent. The nimble- footed newsboy does not startle with the shrill cry of " Murder in the fifth ward ! '' '' Terrible acci- dent ! " ^' Fire and great loss of life ! " ^^ Drown- ing in the Delaware ! '^ From such unwelcome news the bounding billows separate us. The daily papers come not with their cliapter of accidents ; the " latest scandal/' and the bitter declamations of partizan politicians. We are in blissful igno- rance of human affairs. And ^' when ignorance is bliss 'tis folly to be wise." Three objects impress us ; the sea, the sky, the ship. With the sky we hold communication. Daily, at noon, the captain has a message from the sun. It is brief and to the point. It informs us of our exact location, and of the distance traveled since the previous noon. This is all the news we have from abroad, and more we do not want. " Plenty to eat and nothing to do." What a happy lot is ours ! Yes, truly ; plenty to eat. Coffee comes at 7 o'clock ; breakfast at 8.30 ; lunch at 12 ; dinner at 4 ; tea at 7.30, and supper at 9 o'clock. How time flies in discussing the merits of these English dishes ! When the tables 18 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. are deserted, the decks present a lively scene. Here and there are groups engaged in brilliant conversation. Some of the quiet ones sit in com- fortable chairs reading the last novel, or looking over a guide-book, arrange their future excur- sions. Sometimes the scenes are positively amusing. Here are venerable women conducted to their chairs. Suddenly the ship gives a lurch, and a procession of chairs, with fearfully frightened oc- cupants, marches in '■' double quick '^ to the side of the vessel. A rebounding wave returns the fugitives, and they are made secure, to their evi- dent satisfaction, by being fastened with a rope. At certain hours the ^'fashionables promenade.^^ The captain, a gallant tar, usually leads the pro- cession. With swaying forms and bending limbs, up and down the deck they march in zigzag lines. Many a merry laugh is indulged in at the ex- pense of some hapless fellow-passenger. Oppor- tunities are frequently afforded for the exhibition, both of agility and strength ; and many gentle courtesies are accepted and responded to, during these afternoon excursions. There are occasional excitements created by the nearness of some ship, or in exchanging signals with some distant steamer. One evening, just before dark, a rush was made to the forecastle, TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 19 while the ciy, " ship ahead ! '' rang up and down the steamer. The vessel was slowly moving under sail^ across our bows, to leeward. The rapid motion of the steamer brought us speedily within speaking distance, and w^ere it not for the immediate command of the captain to put the helm '' hard to port/^ we would have run her down in a few minutes. We came so near, that a slight mistake by the wheelsman, would have led to the most disastrous consequences. On another occasion a ship approaches us from the north, swinging gracefully on the pliant wave. She comes so close that we could distinguish the faces upon the deck, and our hearts beat fast and strong, w^heu thus brought face to face with fellow-trav- elers upon the wide and restless waters. Sad and startling was the news this morning. One of our passengers has disappeared, — never- more to be seen ! Judge Doolittle, of Utica, came on deck at 9 o'clock last evening, and has not since been seen. It is supposed that in a state of mental depression, or melancholy, he cast himself into the sea. Sad ncAvs to be flashed back to wait- ing and anxious friends. The Queen's birthday is duly celebrated by passengers and crew. At early morn the British flag is sent flying to the mast-head in honor of the Queen. A sumptuous dinner is provided ; 20 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. speecl^ies made ; national airs sung, — including '^ God save the Queen " and the ^' Star Spangled Banner/^ a j^ grand concert ! '^ Such is the notice that greets the eye, both in the cabin and on th.e deck. The object is a worthy one — the Sailors' Orphan Home, at Liverpool. The state-room is crowded — quite a brilliant audience. Minister Schenck — our minister returning to the Court of St. James- presides, and introduces the performers. A French "prima donna" and the leader of a New York orchestra, are the '^ special attractions.' ' We have some good '^ fiddling" and "trilling," with a few real good old English songs that ^' bring down the house," or, rather stagger the steamer. The captain, as jolly a tar as ever guided a ship, sings in true sailor fashion, " I'm afloat, I'm afloat, and the rover is free." A collection is taken up remarkable both for the amount, and the material ; one hundred and eighty dollars is put upon the plates, all in silver and gold, except one representative of the depre- ciated greenback. The Sabbath day comes, bringing a clear sky and a quiet sea. A service is held in the morning at which both passengers and crew are present. The captain reads the Episcopal service ; responses loud and hearty being made by the officers and TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 21 crew. A sermon is preached by a venerable di- vine, a New York city pastor. The situation, and the surroundings, are ad- verted to by the preacher, who secures undivided attention by the soundness of his doctrine, and the appropriateness of his theme. The most delightful evening spent on ship- board, is this evening of the Sabbath. A goodly number of the passengers, male and female, stand upon the deck, and unite in singing some sweet and familiar hymns. The sea is like glass ; the stars sparkle in the sky, and the moon is full. The ship glides so smoothly that we are quite unconscious of motion. And here, under the canopy of the starry heavens, and upon the bosom of the deep, shut out from all the world, we join with heart and voice in singing " Nearer my God to thee," and '^ Jesus lover of my soul." As the words, ^' safe into the haven guide," are repeated, hearts are touched and eyes are tearful. We feel that God is here, listening in the silence of this twilight hour, to the songs His children are singing, and the prayers they are offering in song. But the tenth day has arrived. For nine long days we have looked upon the sea and sky, and now we wish for land. Our vessel has averaged about three hundred miles a day, and land is pro- 22 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. mised before the setting sun. As the day ad- vances the land excitement increases. The sea has changed its color and the waves have changed their form. ^^ Kerry Coast lies off to the left," says one. " Yes/' replies an old woman of evi- dent Irish extraction, who had been sick during the voyage, *' an' one sight off the auld counthry will cure me ! " Everybody is on deck at 5 p.m. Eyes, aided by opera-glasses and telescopes, are peering into the mists that have settled along the Irish coast. The steerage passengers crowd the forecastle. Suddenly a giant rock looms up grandly in the sea. Land ! land ! is rung out in merry shouts. Slowly and beautifully the Kerry moun- tains make their appearance, and the Irish coast, for scores of miles, bursts upon the sight ! What an excitement among the steerage passengers. How some of them fairly leap for joy ! Laughter and tears are mingled, as those lofty mountains and green fields appear beyond the swelling flood. We sweep along the coast with bright eyes and happy hearts. " All the storms will soon be over, Then we'll anchor in the harbor." We pass Valentia Bay, where the ocean cable is landed. On a broad rock, high above the waves, stands the signal station, to which our captain re- ports, by sending to the mast-head, the colors of the TEISr DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 23 Abyssinia. The sun lias now set, and lights are blazing along the coast. It looks as if Will-o-the- wisp, with lighted torch, went bounding from head-land to headland all the way to Cork. Mizen Head, Cape Clear, and old Kinsale, are passed in succession ; and at 1 1 P. M. we enter the harbor of Cork. A lighter is waiting, some miles from the shore, to receive both passengers and mail. Parting words are spoken ; cheers given for the noble Abys- sinia, and we are steaming up to Queenstown at the hour of twelve. Less than a score of cabin passengers land at this point. And these are tourists, intending to visit places of interest in Ireland ; six of them — a company of ladies — going direct to Killarney. But we are ashore, and rushed immediately into the custom-house. Here, valises, trunks, and satchels are carefully examined by her majesty's faithful officers. What a diligent search for " see- gars.'^ And what surprise is manifested when we declare that there was no such contraband material in our possession, and that we were not even par- tial to the weed. '^ The gintleman may pass along,'' exclaims the disappointed smoker. So w^e ^^pass along '' to the ^' Queen's hotel," and there enjoy the solid comforts of a bed that seems to be mov- ing, but is really motionless. CHAPTER 11. EAMBTJNG THROUGH IRELAND — FROM QUEENS- TOWN TO KILLARNEY. QuEENSTOWN is built on the side of a hill that slopes gradually down to the sea. It was formerly called '^Cove/' but received its present name upon the visit of her Britannic Majesty, in 1849. From the heights above the town the scenery is quite picturesque. Yonder is Spike Island. It is a convict depot, and some two thousand men are em- ployed in excavating and building. Close by is Rocky Island, having a powder magazine cut in the solid rock, containing some ten thousand bar- rels of powder. What a splendid prize for the Fenians. And how easily they might get — well — blown up ! This harbor of Cork, that stretches away before us to the sea, is one of the finest in the world. It is capable of aifording shelter to the entire British navy. Here, the celebrated Drake found refuge, when closely pursued by the Spanish fleet. 24 QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 25 And Crostihaven creek, into which he sailed and where safety was found, is known to the local mariner as '^ Drake's pool." The city of Cork is eleven miles distant, and we are off to the home of the " Corkonian/' What charming scenery ! The harbor so magnificent; the winding river Lee; the groves and villas ; the sparkling lawns and lovely green fields, are a feast for eyes wearied with the monotony of the sea. What freshness and beauty all around us ! What sweetness in the bird songs ! What fra- grant odors on the breeze ! With the clear sky, balmy air, and beautiful scenery, we are delighted. What a pleasant introduction to this saintly isle, on this May morning ! But here is Cork, the southern capital. And here comes Mr. " Corkonian,'' an excellent speci- men. What an excellent subject for an artist. How he bows, and whines, and pleads for the pri- vilege of ^' carryin' yere satchel.'^ We demur, pleading as an excuse, the need of proper exercise. He responds : '^ Och in sure, a jintlemun the likes of you sur, wouldn't tire yerselves. Plase, sur, ni be afther takin' you to wheresomever you might be goin, and unsasin' blessins on yer sowl ! '' Of course we relent, relax our hold upon our bag- gage, which is quickly seized by this oily boy of Cork. Then follow questions about "Ameriky" 26 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. in rapid succession, that fairly surprise us. As we proceed, we are fully enlightened regarding the woes and wants of " ould Ireland," The re- pressive policy of the British government; the .system of absenteeism by which Ireland is impov- erished ; the unhappy relation subsisting between landlord and tenant; the course that should be pursued in order to restore harmony, and bring about an era of good feeling ; these and kindred topics, are discussed with a logic and an eloquence that would win fame for a learned professor. Not since college days, when studying Bowen, have we been so instructed in political economy. Now and then we cast a suspicious eye upon this philosophic individual, somewhat perplexed in harmonizing his extensive knowledge and his shabby appearance. He has a shrewd cast of countenance, and occasionally his eyes twinkle merrily. His '^ brogue " is the genuine southern type, and the repetition of complimentary phrases, with a peculiar modulation, indicate that he has kissed the " blarney stone." But that pale face and these well-patched garments, reveal his pov- erty. Indeed, the discrepancy between the man and the garments, excites the suspicion that they were ever made to his measure. If so, then surely the tailor lost his reckoning. Our sympathy is excited by his tales of suffering, and after he has conducted QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 27 US here and there, pointing out the objects of in- terest, we propose some compensation. A multi- tude of pennies carried in our pockets over the sea, are kindly offered, and as kindly refused. The amount is considerable, and yet this hungry mor- tal has no regard for ^^ coppers," — '^ he always likes a bit o' silver sur." We yield the point and give him both, receiving in return, such an Irish blessing ! After conversing with this " Corkonian,^^ we concluded that Gray was correct in his elegy, when he asserted the possibility of highly gifted men dying without proper recognition. Indeed, upon the marble slab that will mark the last resting place of this rustic philosopher, might well be inscribed the words — - " Perhaps in this neglected spot, is laid Some heart once pregnant with celestial fire ; Hands that the rod of empire might have sway'd, Or wak'd to ecstasy the living lyre. But knowledge to Ms eyes her ample page, Kich with the spoils of time, did ne'er unroll ; Chill penury repress' d his noble rage, And froze the genial current of the soul.' ' Cork is a city of considerable size. Its po- pulation is estimated at between seventy and- eighty thousand. It is well built, and quite at- tractive. The principal streets are wide and well 28 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. paved, but not remarkable for cleanliness. The city is governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen, and forty-eight councillors. It returns two members to the British parliament. History informs us that St. Fionn Bar, an anchorite, founded a monastery in Cork in the beginning of the seventh century ; and that his seminary was attended by 700 scholars. It is related that Cromwell caused the church bells to be cast into cannon, during his residence in this city. Here William Penn was converted to Quakerism, by the preach- ing of Thomas Loe; and not far distant is the grave of Wolfe, author of the lines beginning, " Not a drum was heard — not a funeral note.^^ It was in Cork that the celebrated Father Mathew began his career as a preacher of " total absti- nence." He was supplied with funds by a brother- in-law, who was — strange to say — a distiller. The effect of '^ Mathew's '^ preaching upon the brother- in-law's distillery was very decisive. The dis- tillery ceased its flow of liquid fire, and the brother-in-law became a bankrupt! The Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity, a beautiful Gothic edifice, was founded by this reformer. And in St. Patrick street, the people of Cork have erected a ^^ handsome '^ statue of this most successful temperance advocate. It would seem that the influence of good St. QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 29 Fionn Bar is still felt in this southern city^ for no less than eight educational institutions of a scien- tific character are here located. The Queen's col- lege, built of limestone, in Gothic style, is an im- posing edifice, and occupies a conspicuous position. The "Royal Cork institution " has an extensive library, and some interesting manuscripts in the Irish language. The museum has a number of stones inscribed with the letters used by the Dru- ids previous to the introduction of Christianity. Among other objects of interest, the Shaudon Church, with its storeyed steeple of red-stone and limestone, is worthy of mention. This church has a steeple 120 feet high, and a good chime of bells. It is a fortunate circumstance that Cromwell is no longer a resident of Cork, else the heart of Rev. Mr. Mahony would not have been so tenderly touched by the chiming of those bells, nor would his poetic genius be made immortal by chiming down the ages the following musical measures: " With deep affection And recollection I often think on Those Shandon bells, Whose sound so wild would In the days of childhood, Fling around my cradle Their magic spells. 30 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. " I have heard bells chiming Full many a clime in, Tolling sublime in Cathedral shrine ; While at a glib rate Brass tongues would vibrate, But all their music Spoke nought like thine." Bat lest the reader of Irish extraction should regard Cork, because of these educational facili- ties and poetic and historic memories, as a good place in which to live — a paradise of plenty — we would point to the Worh-house^ the largest in the country, and to the nearly forty pawnbroking es- tablishments in the city. These two, and we might say twin institutions, reveal the poverty of the people. Blarney Castle is not far distant from Cork, and we are off to kiss the " Blarney stone." Upon purchasing our ticket and stepping into the cars, we at once perceive that this '' train '^ is a foreign institution. The cars — about the size of the Amer- ican—are built in compartments. Each compart- ment accommodates some eight or ten persons, who sit face to face. Between these compartments or divisions, there is no communication. The doors open each side, and are locked by the ^' guard '^ before the departure of the train from each suc- cessive station. While passing from station to QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 31 statiou, the passenger is practically a prisoner, and wholly at the mercy of his fellow-travellers. A projecting board, rumiing the entire length of the train, furnishes a foot-path for the " guard/' And along this narrow pathway the conductor moves briskly and rapidly to examine tickets, ad- mit and release passengers. While the cars are in motion, the guard usually occupies a small com- partment, or "caboose,^' at the end of the train, from which he communicates with the engineer. Of course the thought of being locked up, and lim- ited in our range of vision, is at the outstart un- satisfactory. Then the fear of being carried be- yond the proper station is not soothing to the nerves of a tourist, bent upon improving every mile, and every minute. And occasionally we hear passengers shout lustily, and see them swing their arms threatingly at the guard, who seemed forget- ful of their release, until the train had well-nigh started. We have, years ago, read thrilling narratives of band-to-hand encounters between passengers ; and of the brutal treatment the weak received at the hands of the strong, when the thundering of the cars drowned the cry for help, and the distance between the stations afforded opportunity for the commission of crime. But if there be a dark side, there is also a bright 32 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. one; and we sit fearless and contented in this Irish conveyance. We are happily alone, and the car is locked. Solitary confinement in a foreign land ! Well, that pea-nut man cannot enter ; neither can the youth with gum-drops. Then that pestilent vendor of trashy novels is excluded. So is the man who spoils our " nap/^ and excites our cu- pidity, by screaming out ^^ prize from ten cents to twenty dollars in each package of superior candy ! '^ All these disturbers of the traveller's peace are here happily unknown, and we are ready to shout for joy. The road, over which we are carried at a high rate of speed, is well built. The bridges are solid, and the stations neat. All necessary precaution is taken to avoid accident. The track is fenced in with wire-ropes ; signal stations are erected at suitable distances ; carriage roads pass over, or under, the railroad by means of bridges, and thus speed and safety is secured. The ^^ guard " is a novelty. He wears an offi- cial robe shining with buttons; is generally bland ; has a charming " brogue"— a genuine son of the soil. At each station we find a policeman. He is dressed in a close-fitting blue suit, girt with a broad banded leather belt and brass buckle; his head closely shaven, and shielded by a little round cap strapped tightly under the chin. The atmos- QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 33 phere is fresh and fragrant, and the prospect most delightful. The cottages of the peasantry are built of stone, one story high, whitewashed, neatly thatched, and surrounded by the omnipresent '^potato-patch,^' the camping ground of the goose, and the dormitory of the porker. The fields are very small, seldom containing more than two or three acres, and frequently not more than one. The fences are clay, overgrown with grass, and crowned with the wdiite-blossomed hawthorn, or yellow-flowered furze. Blarney Castle, so celebrated in Irish song, was built in the fifteenth century, by Cormac Mc- Carthy. It was a massive structure, and prior to the use of gunpowder, must have been impregna- ble. The lower portion of the edifice, and the tower, 120 feet in height, still remain. We are ad- mitted to the grounds by a w^oman, who, conscious of the dignity of her position, points with pride to the majestic pile, and dilates with marvelous fluency upon the beauty of the scenery. And the grounds surrounding the castle are certainly beau- tiful. In former days they were adorned with statues, grottoes, bridges, and various kinds of rustic ornament. But since the time, " The muses shed a tear, When the cruel auctioneer, With his hammer in his hand to sweet Blarney camej" 2 34 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. some of the stately trees have been cut doAvn, and the statues have disappeared. But neverthehjss — '' The groves of Blarney, They look so charming, Down by the purling Of sweet, silent stream," that we forget the glory of the past in the beauty of the present. We enter the castle. Here is the dark and dismal chamber where prisoners were confined. And this is the banquetting hall. Above us rises the tower, from the summit of wduich a magnificent view of the surrounding country is obtained. And yonder is the famous Blarney stone. Who has not heard of its magic power ? And what son of Erin, or what tourist, has failed to kiss it when the opportunity has been afforded ? And have we not turned aside to visit the build- ing for this very purpose ? For — " There is a stone there That whoever kisses. Oh ! he never misses To grow eloquent." This ^' real stone " is difficult of approach. It is clasped by iron bands to a projecting buttress, at a considerable distance from the ground. We must climb to a considerable height, and then holding on to the bars reach down and bring the Blarney Castle. QUEEIirSTOWIir TO KILLAENEY. 35 lips in contact with this magic stone. With breast pressing the hard rock, head and shoulders pro- jecting over the battlements, heels pointing sky- ward, the feat is performed. A stout German just arrived upon the scene, and exceedingly anxious to acquire smooth and winning speech, attempts to do likewise. But wdiether, owdng to the weight of his head, or the pressure of his heels, the sinewless arms are une- qual to the task, and the disappointed Teuton re- tires in disgust. Why this stone is so famous, or how such effects came to be ascribed to it, can- not be easily explained. There are various theo- ries, but none satisfactory. It is said that the smooth, fluent, persuasive speech, with which the people of this locality have always been gifted, was traceable to the magi- cal power of this particular stone. Such is the tradition of the elders. Such appears to be the belief of this singularly loquacious guardian of the premises. And no tourist of slow speech, or limited vo- cabulary, can afford to be skeptical, when by the exercise of faith, and the expenditure of a few shil- lings, such advantages may be gained. How many tourists in the past have had their tongues loosed by the magic ^^ touch," we cannot affirm, no record being kept by the institution. 36 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Having paid the janitrix the usual admission fee, and receiving in return blessings and com- mendations, numerous and varied, we sauntered along the ^' gravel walks there for speculation and conversation,'^ admiring the natural beauty of the locality and musing upon the changes that had taken place since the days of the famous McCarthy's. Resuming our wanderings, we proceed to the Lakes of Killarney. The country is somewhat wild and boggy ; this is particularly so as we near the lakes. Arriving at the depot, we select our hotel, and are driven thither in a truly novel conveyance, an Irish jaunting car. The passen- sengers sit sidewise, back to back, the feet reaching towards the ground, but resting upon a footboard. The driver occupies a seat in front, sometimes on a plane with the passengers, and sometimes slighly elevated. The passengers while sitting in this "backward" position, do not press upon each other, as there is some space between them, and this space is frequently occupied by children. Jaunting cars roll through the streets, having two or three adults on each side, and two or three good-sized children thrown in between ; the whole party being pulled along by a little Irish pony. In clear weather this mode of traveling is exceedingly pleasant, allowing an uninterrupted view of the country, and frequent changes of position. QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 37 The ^'Lake Hotel" has been selected, and we are met at the door by the portly matron, who keeps the establishment. Our hostess is a genuine Irish ^' lady." She is bland, witty, and has a charming ^^ brogue." She politely informs us, that the house is full of guests, from all parts of the world, but that a "gintleman" from "Ameriky " is always welcome. Being thus kindly assured, w^e hang up our hat, and feel perfectly at home. The house is admirably located, the table well furnished, and the charges by no means extortionate. The population of Killarney numbers some 5000, including the beggars. The laziest-looking set of loungers we have yet seen, are here. Many of these shiftless fellow^s prey upon the unsuspecting visitors. A few act as guides, and demand the largest fee for the simplest service; others beg, and their importunity is such, that the only escape is by yielding to their demand, and giving them "a few coppers." Killarney has several benevolent institutions; a dispensary, a fever-hospital, an almshouse, and lunatic asylum. There is also a nunnery, with a school attached, in which 400 girls are instructed by the nuns. But we proceed to a tour of the country and the lakes. A jaunting car is engaged and we are oif at a gallop. Here is the Cathedral, a stately edifice of recent construction. A ^vi^iting upon one of the pillars 38 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. appeals to our syinpathy and reminds us of the departed. It is as follows: ^^Of your charity, pray for the soul of Mary Catharine O'Sullivan, who died April 19th, 1873, in the 65th year of her age. — Jesus mercy, Mary help." Several requests of a similar character are posted in various parts of the building. Reference is made to the decease of Thomas, Earl of Kinmare, —from which we infer that the deceased noble- man was in Communion with the Roman Catholic Church. In the churchyard is a monument, — a monolith of Peter-head marble,— to the memory of an Irish Chief Justice. From the Cathedral we ascend to the venerable ruins of Aghadoe. These consist of portions of an ancient castle, church and tower. Antiquarians declare that the architecture points back to the sixth century. Both in the ruins and the cemetery, there are some very quaint carvings and sculptures. Here, at the head of a grave stands a crucifix in stone; and yonder is a virgin and child roughly chiseled out of the rock. These specimens of rude Irish art, are two and a-half feet wide, and the strange inscriptions intimate that they belong to the sixth or seventh centuries. These ruins lead our thous^hts back throuo^h the ages. They indicate the antiquity of the country. They also teach us the fleeting character of human QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 39 glory, and lordly power. In these ancient castles dwelt martial chiefs who went forth to battle, a thousand years ago. And here are the slowly decaying walls of churches and monasteries, where in centuries gone by canons, monks, and friars, clad in holy vestments, chanted their eve- ning prayers in slow and solemn measures. And yonder are battlements and towers, ivy-covered and slowly crumbling, where haughty chieftains walked in pride, and shook the shining spear, or hurled the deadly weapon. And all have passed away : silence reigns supreme ! The outlook from these ruins is simply magni- ficent. The tourist who does not visit Aghadoe, can form no conception of the beauty and gran- deur of the scene. In the distance to the right is <'Tomies" Mountain, 2400 feet high; a little far- ther along the ^'Purple " Mountain, lifts its head to an altitude of 2700 feet. In front, away off in the distance is "Tore" Mountain, nearly 2000 feet and the " Stoompa,^' 2300 feet, above the level of the sea. Beneath us in the valley and partly encircled by these mountains, lies Lough Leane, the largest and the loveliest of the lakes of Killarney. In- numerable islands, covered with hoary ruins, sparkle upon its shining waters. Its shores, fringed with groves, verdant lawns, and castle ruins, charm the eye with a scene of varied beauty. 40 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Camillan and Cloghereen Woods ; Kenmare and Muckross Demesne add their coloring to the picture, making it the most beautiful we have ever seen. Those black mountains, vivid green shores, and shining waters can never, from memory be effaced. From Aghadoe we proceed to the ^'Purple" mountains. Here is the residence of Lady Headley, and yonder the house of M. Jas. O'Connell, brother of the famous " Daniel." The isolation or seclu- sion of these " lordly" mansions is quite noticeable. They are usually surrounded by high stone walls, or impenetrable thorny hedges. A gateway care- fully guarded, admits to the premises. The entire arrangements point back to feudal times, and reveal an impassable gulf, separating landlord and tenant, — the aristocracy, and — well, — the Fenian democracy. At the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe stands a cottage, once occupied by the famous Irish beauty — Kate Kearney.- — Her charms inspired the local bard to write : " O did you ever hear of Kate Kearney, Who lives on the banks of Killarney ? From the glance of her eye Shun danger, and fly, For fatal is the glance of Kate Kearney." We are met and welcomed by Kate's grand- daughter, who now keeps this way-side inn. At QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 41 this point the carriage road terminates^ and the bridle path begins. A number of tourists are enjoying the hos- pitalities, so freely offered and urgently pressed. This kind woman has great sympathy for ^'Gintle- min such as yese, thravilin' in the hate uv the day.'' She bids us be "sated/' while she runs, not to kill a kid, but to " fetch a little dhrop of the crather." Quickly two bottles are presented, one containing '^mountain dew,'' or '^ potteen," and the other "goat's milk." Our temperance prin- ciples are put to the test, but (to their credit be it spoken), come off victorious. Failing to dispose of these inspiring beverages, she next presents her photograph, urging, as a reason why we should become the happy possessor, her relationship to " Kate" of romantic memory. Fearing lest such a "souvenir" should excite jealousy in our little family circle, we politely decline the purchase, and compliment her upon those illustrious ancestors, of whom we had heard and sung in boyhood's happy days. Before passing through the gap of Dunloe, an amusing incident occurs. A partnership had been formed early in the day with another gentleman, for the purpose of lessening the expenses in con- nection with the jaunting car, and also of resisting the demands of those burly beggars that infest the 2* 42 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. mountain path. Two horsemen^ wild mountaineers, come galloping up and offer their fiery chargers to carry us over the mountain. We decline, — preferring to walk, — our friend however will ride, and there is now a dispute. Which horse shall he choose? Each rider prefers the claims of his favorite animal ; and all the fine points, from head to hoof, of these rival steeds are referred to, dilated upon, and urged with such wit and argument, as provokes the loudest laughter. Finally the contestants submit to the decision of our companion. He will hire, and pay liberally for the horse that gallops the fastest. Then we have a race. Away down the road they start, and up they come sweeping around the curves at a tremendous pace. The ignorant spectator might suppose that life itself depended upon the result, such spurring, whipping, and yelling to win the prize ! Neck and neck they come, with flashing feet and flying tail. One of the horses runs ahead of the other, and is rewarded by having placed upon his back a respectable-looking gentleman weighing over 200 lbs. avoirdupois. The Gap of Dunloe is exceedingly wild. The narrow pathway winds along, now beneath over- hanging cliffs and anon in the shadow of bold precipitous mountains. A quickly flowing stream traverses the gap, QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 43 forming in its onward march five small lakes, called the '' Cameen'^ lakes. Of these lakes, one is justly celebrated as the receptacle of the last Irish snake. Purple Mountain, so called because of the purple-coloured shale covering the summit, rises 2300 feet above this lake. From the top of this mountain, that sainted Presbyterian, Patrick, sent the last of those venomous reptile^ down into the ^' Black ^' Lough. ^^An' in sure isn^t there the thrack," exclaims our guide, pointing out a seem- ing pathway in the mountain side, ^' along fwitch they come." We argue the case, but without effect. Our guide, and a half dozen men and women, who have met us on the way, each one carrying a bottle of Irish whiskey and a bottle of goat's milk, believe it as sincerely and as firmly as they believe in their own existence. Certainly the mountain is high enough to witness such a spec- tacle, and the ^^ Lough " black enough to hide such venomous reptiles. From this point we have an excellent view of Macgillicuddy's Eeeks, said to be the loftiest mountains in Ireland. The valley at tha base of ^ the "Reeks" is called *' Coom-a-Dhuv,'' 'or, the black valley. The scene is bleak, barren, desolate. There are no trees, fields, crops, — nothing but a wild moor stretching away for miles, and terminating in those 44 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. dismal ^' Reeks.'' The contrast between the Lakes of Killarney, just over the ^'Purple" Mountain, and this ^^ Coom-a-Dhuv/' is most remarkable. But the boatmen await our arrival at the lower lakes, and we hasten on to meet them. We are followed down the mountain by groups of men- dicant merchants, — their stock in trade consist- ing of stout woolen hose and strong Irish whis- key. They beg, and insist upon having some com- pensation for accompanying us. When this is denied, or but feebly responded to, their smiles are changed to frowns, and their flattery to abuse. Dear reader, beware of them. And if you ever visit the Gap of Dunloe, or climb to the '^ Black Lough,'' to drop a tear upon the grave of the last Irish snake, be sure to go in company with a man that weighs 200 pounds, and wields a rousing "shillelah." Arriving at Lord Brandon's Cottage, we em- bark in a nice little row-boat. At the oars are two sturdy men. The name of one is Michael Sullivan, — a descendant doubtless of the famous Kerry chieftain of that name. We float joyously over the '^ upper lake." It is only two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide. Twelve islands sparkle upon its bosom. The shores are rocky, and wild QUEENSTOWX TO KILLAENEY. 45 mouDtaijis cast their shadows upon the surface; — but the islands are beautiful. Here is " Arbutus Island/^ so called because covered with that verdant shrub, — a perfect gem. The Eagle's Nest lifts its head 700 feet above the river, and the echo is remarkable. Mountain an- swers mountain, repeating the echo many times, and with great distinctness. Middle Lake is much larger than the Upper Lake, the scenery less wild, and in some respects more beautiful. Lough Leane is the largest of the lakes of Kil- larney. It is five miles long and three miles wide. Thirty islands sparkle on its surface. Some of the finest ruins in the country render these islands spe- cially attractive. Here is Boss Castle, to the sum- mit of which we climb. The view from those ivy-clad and crumbling walls is charming. It was built ages ago by one of the O'Do-v^ naghues, and was the last of the Munster Castles to surrender to the English. This occurred in 1652. Muckross Abbey ruins, situated on the margin of the lake, consist of an abbey and church. The abbey was founded in 1440, and some portions are still in a good state of preserva- tion. In the church, there are many tombs, in- scribed with the names of Irish chiefs and heroes, — O'Sullivan, McCarthy, and O'Donaghue Mor 46 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. — who in ancient times owned the soil, and led their clans to battle. Our boatmen are quite familiar with the history of the "saintly isle.'' Their stories are amusing. The traditions respect- ing Irish kings, and the legends pertaining to saintly characters, are alluded to, and dwelt upon, with a gayety or gravity, becoming the subject of remark. Now and then snatches of Irish melodies awaken the echoes, and give too swdft wings to these happy hours. Of all the islands, Innisfallen is the most beau- tiful. The historical associations are exceedingly interesting. Here are hoary ruins pointing back- ward more than 1,200 years ! The abbey is said to have been founded by St. Pinion in the year 600. In this abbey were prepared the celebrated " Annals of Innisfallen." This work consists of portions of the Old Testament, a compend of universal history down to the fifth century, and an interesting history of Ireland to the begin- ning of the fourteenth century. The original copy, written some 600 years ago, is now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford University. No complete translation of this work has ever been published. The island, with its verdant lawns, flowering shrubs, and stately trees, its ivy-mantled ruins, and historic associations, is the most beautiful of QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 47 those sparkling gems that shine upon the bosom of the lovely Lough Leane. The calmness and beauty of this ^^ fairy-isle " tempts us to linger, but time forbids. For years we have longed to look upon this moon-lit scene, and now must bid it a fond farewell. " Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine, How fair thou art, let others tell, While but to feel how fair be mine, " Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell In memory's dream that sunny smile, Which o'er thee on that evening fell, When first I saw thy fairy isle." CHAPTER III, WANDERING THROUGH IRELAND — KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. From Killarney, our rambles extend to the western part of Ireland. Tipperarj — whose ci- tizens are so skilled in the use of the ^^ black- thorn" — is visited : and so is Kilkenny, famous for its peaceable cats. And here is the old town of Athlone : and not far distant is Lishoy, the early home of Oliver Goldsmith. It is now known by the name of Auburn, and is the reputed scene of the '^Deserted Village.'' Some features corresponding to the descriptions in the poem still remain : — - " The never-failing brook, the busy mill " may yet be seen ; and so can the " Decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hill." The ruins of the parsonage attract the tourist's eye, and point to the lines descriptive of the site :— 48 KILLAENEY TO DUBLIN. 49 ** Near yonder copse, where once the garden smiled, And still where many a garden flower grows wild, There where a few torn shrubs the place disclose, The village preacher's modest mansion rose." Whether Lishoy be "sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain/' or not, we are pleased to know that tourists turn aside from the beaten path, to visit the early home of this much admired Irish essayist, novelist and poet. The ocean now rolls before us ; and the scenery along this Gal way coast is both wild and beauti- ful. Large islands possessing remarkable ruins lie like huge breakwaters between the ocean and the bay. These Arran Islands figure quite con- spicuously in legend and song. The pagan Irish believed, that the Paradise they prayed for could be seen from this rocky coast. These isles of the west were to them the isles of the blest. Mr. O'Flaherty — an excellent authority — declares that an enchanted island often appeared and disap- peared to the west of Arran. The ancient Irish believed it to be : — " That Eden, where the immortal brave Dwell in a land serene, — Whose bowers beyond the shining wave, At sunset oft are seen." From Gal way to "Westport, the scenery is pro- 50 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. bably the wildest, and the people perhaps the most unlettered and superstitious, in all Ireland. This will be believed when we call the region Conne- mara, and the province, Connaught. Westport, a good-sized town, is honored in being the home of an Irish nobleman, — the Mar- quis of Sligo. The noble lord occupies a mansion which, for size and surroundings, might well be termed a castle. The demesne is beautiful. We are freely admitted, and admire the lawns, trees, and splendid edifice, and the forest that partly co- vers this 350 acre inclosure. Some four miles distant, CroaGh Pafrich lifts its head 2.500 feet high, and looks down upon ^' Clew Bay,^' one of the most remarkable bays in the United King- dom. This mountain is visited at certain seasons by large numbers of devotees from all parts of Ireland. Up the sloping sides they clamber, performing ^' Stations,'^ as they ascend. It is the Irishman's Mecca; and an excellent j^lace to go on a summer excursion. If this sacred mount coald be transferred to the shores of New Jersey, great would be the excitement among the stockholders of Camp Meeting grounds. The proprietor could easily execute a lease upon " his own terms ; '^ and ecclesiastical speculators would derive a 'Miandsome profit ^^ from the in- vestment. KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 51 Castlebar is the countj town of Mayo. Here the Earl of Lucan has his summer residence and model farm. His lordship owns the land on which the town is built^ and quite an extent of the country surrounding. Oxen are fattened on the products of the farm, and shipped for sale to Eng- lish markets. Dairying is also conducted on a laro^e scale, and the Castlebar brands of butter bring the highest prices in the Loudon markets. This stock-raising, and butter-making, may not be regarded as " noble " employment ; but this " Peer of the Kealm'^ enters the lists against all com- petitors. His lordship is a gallant soldier. He commanded the British cavalry forces during the Crimean war, and ordered that fatal " charge of the Light Brigade,^^ having received his instruc- tions from Lord Eaglan, the general-in-chief. The Earl of Cardigan, a fiery Scotchman, and brother- in-law of Lord Lucan, amazed at the ^^ order,'^ took his place at the head of his ^^ brigade/' ex- claiming, " Here goes the last of the Cardigans ! " A blunder had been committed, but by whom ? '' Forward the Light-Brigade ! Charge for the guns !" he said : Into the valley of death Bode the six hundred. " Forward the Light-Brigade !" Was there a man dismayed ? Not tho' the soldier knew Some one had blundered." 52 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. That fatal charge led to such bitterness of feeling between Raglan and Lucan, that the latter was recalled by the Queen. A dozen miles from Castle- bar, there are two exceedingly romantic lakes, Lough Conn and Lough Cullin. Bordering the lakes are high mountains, green meadows, forests of oak and ash, tracts of blooming purple heather, clusters of shining cottages, and the stately man- sions and sparkling lawns of country barons. By invitation of a witty and intelligent you^g Irish gentleman, we enjoy an excursion in a jaunting car around those lakes on a lovely summer's after- noon. To these shining shores English tourists frequently come for the purpose of fishing. In these waters perch, pike, trout and salmon sport, and many a ^^ speckled beauty'' of large size and fine flavor has rewarded the skill of the fisherman. Game, feathered and four-footed, abound in the woods. Pontoon should be visited. Americans, we are informed, seldom wander in this direction, but those who come are delighted. Large tracts of land in this part of Ireland have, in years past, been laid waste by the tyranny of landlords. During those dark years — '43 to M8 — when the crops failed, and the tenantry were unable to pay the rent, thousands were " ejected'^ from their homes, and those homes razed to the ground, by the despotism of the owners of the soil. KILLARNEY TO DUBLI:N. 53 The darkest chapters in Irish history^ are those descriptive of the cruelty and oppression practised upon the peasantry of the western part of Ireland, during those mournful years of famine. To-day we may travel scores of miles without seeing a house. Twenty-five years ago, along these sloping hillsides and blooming valleys, there w^ere large and populous villages. But those villages fell before the onward march of the detested "crow- bar-brigade.^^ The fiat went forth from the local sovereigns, and the impoverished tenantry were forcibly ejected from the homes of their ancestors, and compelled to bid adieu for ever to the land of their forefathers. Thousands went to England and Scotland^ but the larger portion emigrated to America. Here and there in our travels we meet with a "son of the sod,^^ who has returned either for the purpose of visiting some relatives, or of purchasing a little farm, and remaining to die in " auld Ireland." These tracts of depopulated country are now pasture lands. Flocks and herds graze upon the former sites of happy villages. Fences that marked the boundaries of farms have been levelled ; the old and stately trees that shaded the homestead have been cut down ; the roads that united neigh- bouring villages have been upturned with the plow ; the clusters of shining cottages have fallen 54 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. before the " crowbar ;'' and thousands of the "ejected^' inhabitants are scattered to the ends of the earth. We look in vain along these hillsides and through these valleys for a house; and we listen for the sound of the human voice^ but the silence is like that of death; we search over those broad acres for some happy group of joyous children, but none can be found. What a change in a land, fertile and beautiful ! Flocks and herds owned by Irish landlords or English and Scottish tenants, roam over the broad acres, usurping the place of men. " Sweet was the sound, when oft at evening close, Ul3 yonder hill the village murmur rose ; But now the sounds of population fail, No cheerful murmurs fluctuate in the gale, No busy steps the grass-grown footway tread, But all the blooming flush of life is fled. Amidst thy bowers the tyrant hand is seen, And desolation saddens all the green." Some of these landlords having sown the wind, are now reaping the whirlwind. So cruel, merciless, and tyrannous, has been their treatment of the impoverished inhabitants, that acts of violence have been resorted to, and many of these land- owners have been compelled to leave the country. They now reside either in England or on the Con- tinent. There stands the lordly mansion, sur- ^KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 55 rounded by beautiful groves and lovely lawns, but it is empty, and the owner fears to return, lest the bullet or the dagger should speedily avenge the injuries inflicted upon a helpless people. The rents are collected by ^'agents/' and the affairs of the ^^ absentee" managed by these much despised officials. Recent legislation, however, has been more favorable to the interests of the tenantry. In case of ejectment, or forced removal at the termination of a lease, compensation is awarded for improvements made. But the relation between landlord and tenant is not the happiest. Keligious animosities add fuel to the flame. And the ineradicable hatred of English rule, renders fruitless the conciliatory measures of those humane ^'proprietors," who are known to be favorable to the '^powers that be.'^ But harsh and severe as the English rule may have been in the past, and repressive and unjust as doubtless much of the present legislation may be, still it would be an evil day for the island were the British forces to be withdrawn, and Ireland henceforth to be governed by the ^^ Fenians.^' The Irish people are patriotic, but not united. Even the men elected to the British Parliament, for the very purpose of secur- ing national emancipation, quarrel in the presence of their enemies, much after the fashion of the Kilkenny cats. This country, with soil so fertile. 56 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. scenery so varied and beautiful, climate so genial and healthful, should be prosperous and happy. There are certain features of this western country, and customs of these witty people, that are worthy of a passing notice. The farm-houses are not widely separated, as in America. Farmers are "next-door neighbours.'^ Clusters of shining cottages reveal the homes of the peasantry. These villages frequently occupy a commanding position, and the outlook from some of them is quite picturesque. At the close of the day, the old men gather in groups, and dis- cuss the growth of crops, or the election of a new " mimber of parleement." The young men and maidens need not walk miles to see each other and talk about future prospects ; here they meet at a moment's notice ! This village life is exceedingly social. It is said by those who ought to know, that many of the young men of New England, wearied with the monotony of farm-life, forsake their homes and repair to neighboring towns or distant cities. The farm-houses are too far apart, and the young people crave for society, companion- ship. Thus the farms are left uncultivated, while the factories are overcrowded. The young Irish farmers are subjected to no such inconveniences. Scores of people meet both in going to and return- ing from their daily toil. And when the labors of KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 57 the day are ended, they gather in joyous crowds along the sloping hills, and various innocent amusements give wings to the happy twilight hours. '' How often have I bless'd the coming day, When toil remitting lent its turn to play, And all the village train from labor free, Led up their sports beneath the spreading tree ! While many a pastime circled in the shade, The young contending, while the old surveyed ; And many a gambol frolicked o'er the ground, And sleights of art and feats of strength went round, And still, as each repeated pleasure tired. Succeeding sports the mirthful band inspired." But the spectacle of cattle leaving the pasture, and entering the dwelling of their owners, there to abide during the night, is certainly both novel and amusing. But this is the case. Cows and calves and peasants do really occupy the same building. The houses are one story high, a loft being added. The hens come home to roost upon one of the beams of the ^'loft.^' The cows come home from pasture and occupy that part of the house under the ^4oft," usually at the end of the building. The cattle are securely tied to posts, and they stand up, lie down, or ruminate, just as they please ; while the chanticleer by his vigorous crowing, informs the sleeper that the day is about 3 58 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. to dawn. And no inconvenience is experienced. Neither sounds nor smells annoy in the least these people of simple tastes. In alluding to this family relationship, and the intimacy existing between the man and the brute, and expressing some sur- prise at the novel spectacle, the response made by a witty Irishman was decidedly amusing. "Yis sur, and sure you ought to visit the place where the pig sits on the chair, and looks out uv the v/indy.^^ I should like to visit that village but time forbids. The style of dress, both of men and women, is also striking. The materials are largely of home make. Flax is grown and manufactured. The old spinning wheel hums all day long, driven by the pliant foot of the old lady of seventy summers. Wool is raised, and flannels and frieze are woven and dyed, to suit both taste and temperature. The women like bright colors. The red is the most popular. Most garments are shapely, and somew^hat "fancy.'^ Low shoes, woolen hose, knee breeches with brass buttons, dark-blue frieze coat, — swallow-tail pattern, white or colored vest, necktie of brilliant hue, and black hat, give these Irishmen an attractive appearance. A blackthorn or "shillelah^^ steadies the movement, and gives promise of action. And such '^ action,'^ inspired by a "dhrop of the crathur," may be frequently KILLAENEY TO DUBLIN. 59 witnessed at the close of the market, or during the progress of a "fair." The scenes by the wayside are occasionally amusing. Donkeys are numerous. This animal is the poor man's burden bearer. Here they come in troops, laden with peat. Yonder they march with large and heavy sacks upon their backs. And here is a little fellow carrying on his back a sack of oats, behind which is seated a good- sized Irish woman smoking a pipe ! There is a suspicious looking movement in the eye of this donkey, as if he were meditating a sudden lurch, or other strategical movement to relieve himself of the oppressive burden. And such flank move- ments are by no means rare. '' The baste will pre- fer a good batin to carry in' a heavy load," — this is the testimony of the drivers. And such is the tes- timony of both men and women, who have found themselves suddenly sprawling upon the ground, while the delighted donkey was galloping in the distance, and braying loudly as if laughing at the fun. We are much interested in the flowers and the birds. In the mountains, the blooming purple heather is a pretty sight. Along the roads, the daisies and the buttercups are everywhere seen. The starlike daisies greet us from every hill side and valley. 60 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. " I see thee glittering from afar : — And then thou art a pretty star ; Not quite so fair as many are In heaven above thee ! Yet like a star with glittering crest, Self-poisecl in air, thou seem'st to rest ; May peace come never to his nest, Who shall reprove thee !" ' And what numbers of butterflies on brilliant ^Ymg fly past, or whirl about, as if inviting us to a chase. "Oh pleasant, pleasant were the days, The time when in our childish plays, My sister Emmeline and I Together chased the butterfly ! A very hunter did I rush, Upon the prey : with leaps and springs I foUow'd on from brake to bush ; " — The bird songs too, sound strangely. Here is the cuckoo, a very strange bird indeed. It builds no nest. Whether this arises from sheer laziness, want of skill, or lack of parental instinct, we can- not affirm. With unblushing effrontery, it lays its eggs in the nests of other birds, showing very little taste in the manner of its selection. Like some beings higher up in the scale of existence, it appro- priates the labors of others without even saying, — " by your leave.' It is a cheat, a fraud : and yet as cheats and frauds of pleasing exterior, and KILLARJvEY TO DUBLIis^. 61 charming voice, are admired and even courted by reason of these superficial accomplishments, so we forget the failings of this bird, as we look upon its plumage, and listen to its song. " O blithe new comer ! I have heard, I hear thee and rejoice : cuckoo ! shall I call thee bird, Or but a wandering voice ? "While I am lying in the grass, Thy loud notes smite my ear ? From hill to hill it seems to pass, At once far off and near ! The same whom in my school-boy days 1 listen'd to : that cry Which made me look a thousand ways, In bush, and tree, and sky." And yet there are birds of more joyous wing and varied song than the cuckoo. The cuckoo simply repeats its own name while, if possible, hiding in the thick foliage; but the skylark takes a loftier flight, climbing into the air, until some- times lost to sight. Then the song of the sky- lark is exhilarating. This little dark-brown bird pours forth its music with the most passionate earnestness. Upward it mounts, fluttering and flashing in the sunlight, singing with an enthusi- asm that is inspiring, — so wild and free, and full of joy ! How we love to lie upon the grass and watch it in its upward flight. How we would 62 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. love to soar to those sunny heights, where it makes the air musical with its melody ! " Up with me ! up with me, into the clouds ! For thy song, Lark, is strong ; Up with me, up with me into the clouds ! Singing, singing, With all the heavens about thee ringing. Lift me, guide me till I find That spot that seems so to thy mind ! I have walk'd through wilderness dreary, And to-day my heart is weary ; Had I now the wings of a fairy, Up to thee would I fly. There is madness about thee, and joy divine In that song of thine ; Up with me, up with me, high and high. To thy banquetting place in the sky ! Joyous as morning. Thou art laughing and scorning ; " — Our travels are now through ^' Fairy Land." The people believe in the existence of fairies. A mountain in the distance is declared to be the home in this section of these mysterious beings. What and who they are, and where they came from, are questions frequently discussed with great seriousness by the ancient of the land. Some believe they are evil spirits released for a season, and placed upon probation. KILLARNEY TO DUBLIJS-. 63 That they have power over man and beast is firmly believed. Peculiar forms of disease that afflict both man and beast, are ascribed directly to their agency, and strange stories are told of their doings and misdoings. Certain individuals are supposed to be familiar with their movements, and to influence their action. These are usually old women. These old women are herb gatherers, and compounders of strange mixtures. They prescribe for man and beast, and marvelous are the stories told of the healing properties of their decoctions. Then the ghost stories related by some of these villagers are startling ; and the houses said to be haunted are pointed out with strange gestures and suspicious looks. These things are believed sin- cerely by the ignorant, and their w^ords and acts prove the sincerity of their belief. But of course they are deluded. 'No intelligent man or woman believes in fairies, or ghosts, or haunted houses. Poets find in them excellent material and pleasant company : and travelers may, after a long march, be amused and even refreshed by the ^' yarns ^' spun by boozy benighted bogtrotters. But the fairies are creations of fancy, and the ghosts are the creatures of fear. The sketch of peasant life in the west of Ire- land would indeed be imperfect without an allusion to the subject. Let us be slow^, however, in casting stones at these simple-minded people. How many 64 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. horse-shoes are still nailed over the doors : how many leather shoes are still hurled after the newly wedded couple : how many wishes are breathed upon the first sight of the new moon : hov\^ many calling themselves respectable, gather around the table turner and spirit-rapper, to hear from the dead — and this, too, in enlightened and Christian- ized America ! In some villages we meet with individuals who speak only the Gaelic or Irish language; but by all we are treated kindly, and questioned closely about "Ameriky." Sitting one afternoon upon a cliff that over- looked meadows, rivers, lakes, woods and culti- vated fields, we were quickly surrounded by some twenty of both sexes. One old woman, in broken English, inquired diligently about her daughter who lived in Philadelphia. She solemnly charged us to inform that naughty girl, that her mother was anxiously awaiting a message, and a '^ triflin' sum o' money.'^ We promised compliance, sug- gesting, however, the difficulty in a large city of recognizing that particular individual. But the old woman replied, '^ In sure it's my dawther I want ye to spake to in Phillydelphy.'^ That was sufficient. We hope to meet ^^ her dawther'^ some fine Thursday afternoon parading on Chest- nut street, when she shall be reproved for her KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 65 negligence, and urged to transmit with all despatch that "thriflin' sum o' money .'^ The hospitality of these people is proverbial. After answering a number of questions, and imparting some required information, a woman suggested the propriety of providing refreshments. Several pressing invita- tions to come to the village, were extended and politely refused. Then the command was given to go to the nearest house and procure some '^pratees and eggs, and a mug o' milk for the jintlemun from. Ameryky.'' In order to avoid swallowing what we did not relish, we bade them good-bye and pressed on in our journey. Then came blessings upon the stranger. ^' God be wi' ye sur.'' ^' God bliss ye and take ye home safely.'^ Such were the repeated utterances of old and young. These parting blessings, and pious greetings, are exceedingly beautiful and impressive. In meeting a traveler, he always salutes you with the words, "God save you, sur." Upon entering a field, " God bless you,'' are the words with which you are greeted by every laborer; and in these fields women work side by side with men, from dewy morn till dusky eve. Indeed, if we were to judge these people by the language used in salutations and farewells, w^e should regard them as both orthodox and pious. It is true, that relics of paganism still exist in 6Q WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. their festivals and bonfires ; and yet they appear to be devout worshippers, after the manner of the Roman Catholic Church. They are regular in their attendance upon the services of that Church. Distance does not afford an excuse for absence. They walk miles over the mountains and through the valleys, that they may kneel before the altar on the Sabbath day. And this trait of character we admire. Roman Catholics, in their promptness and regularity at church services, are examples to certain classes of Protestants. How many Pro- testants lounge lazily at home on God's holy day, or plead a very short distance, or a seeming change of weather, as an excuse for non-attendance upon the services in the house of God. Would that in the matter of church attendance, they were like unto those whom they affect to despise 1 But we must leave this blooming wilderness, and repair to the capital. The distance is about one hundred miles, and we travel by rail. Along the iron pathway are the mansionsof some of Ireland's proudest and wealthiest noblemen : the seat of the Earl of Mayo : the home of Lord Cloncurry : the beautiful residence of the Duke of Leicester, approached by smooth winding pathways, and surrounded by velvety lawns, and groves of elm, ash and oak. The ^^ guard ^' unlocks our prison door, and cries out "Dooblin !" Cc^^^^g^^s CHAPTER IV. DUBLIN TO DERRY. DuBLTi"^, the capital of Ireland, situated on the river Liifey, by which it is divided into nearly two equal j^arts, is certainly a beautiful city. The ap2)roaches to it, remind the traveler of that charming city of the West — Philadelphia. The population is 245,000, and the number of houses 25,000. The principal thoroughfares are very wide, — in some parts as wide as Broad street, Philadelphia. The side- walks paved with smooth flags, and the streets with stone, are kept quite clean. The houses are uniformly high, and built of brick and stone. Some of the stores on the great promenades are magnificent structures. The city, to-day, is thronged with people ; the aristo- cracy are out in carriage and on foot, making quite a display. The contrasts in the shape and color of garments, and in the methods of locomo- tion are quite striking. Here marches the blue- jacketed policeman, and there the red-coated sol- dier. A horseman rides through the street on 67 68 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. prancing steed ; his dangling sword, nodding plume, and martial movement, attract the attention of the crowd, and excite considerable enthusiasm. Tram-cars crowded with excursionists, roll in every direction ; carriages of strange shape, occu- pied by Irish nobility, and driven by liveried coachmen, sweep along the fashionable prome- nades ; jaunting cars, drawn by spirited ponies, fly over the bridges, and swing around the " green ;" and handsome men and women move gracefully in pairs, exchanging happy smiles. The appear- ance of the people pleases us : and we are delighted in listening to their conversation, — so soft and sweet are the tones of the voice. We have never heard the English language spoken with more ease and fluency than by the educated citizens of Dublin. There are a few objects worthy of special note, as we wander through the streets and suburbs of this ancient city. Yonder is the house in which the poet Moore was born. It is a three-story brick, and now used as a "corner grocery.'^ This tall aristocratic mansion is noted as the birthplace of the great Duke of Wellington. It took a Dublin Irishman to conquer Napoleon. In 1817, the citizens of Dublin in appreciation of the Duke's genius and services, erected the " Wellington Tes- timonial,'' in Phoenix Park. This memorial cost DUBLIN TO DERBY. 69 1100.000. Here is the "Bank of Ireland," a magnificent building costing $500,000. This was formerly used as the '^ Parliament House." We are admitted to the old " House of Lords.'^ The furniture is the same as when the room was occu- pied by those lordly representatives — even the old tapestry still decorates the walls. Trinity College, a notable and ancient institution of learning, is visited with much interest. It was founded by the authority of Pope John XXII. in the four- teenth century. Bronze statues of Burke and Goldsmith — both of whom w^ere graduates of this institution — stand at the entrance. The buildings are conveniently grouped, and attractive, and thirteen hundred students are in attendance. The library building is 270 feet long, and contains over 200,000 volumes. In this library are a num- ber of very valuable manuscripts, — one of them being a Latin copy of the Gospels, and attributed to St. Columba, who lived in the sixth century. Christ's Church Cathedral, dates back to the 11th century, and here in ancient times was kept St. Patrick's staff, and other objects of pious regard. In this cathedral, the Church liturgy was first read in Ireland, in the English tongue. There are many monuments erected to the memory of distinguished men. Some of these are very beau- tiful. 70 WANDEEINGS IN EUEOPE. The Cathedral of St. Patrick occupies the site of an ancieiit structure erected by St. Patrick. And the well at which that venerable man bap- tized his converts is enclosed in the present build- ing. The janitor leads us up one of the aisles, uncovers the well^ and offers a glass of water. And is this the identical well at which St. Patrick baptized his converts, fourteen hundred years ago ? ^^ Yes, sur, sure of it." We taste the water and make no reply. It may be, and doubt- less is, the identical well. The Cathedral is cruci- form, consisting of nave, transept and choir. It has recently been ^^ restored" by Sir B. L. Guinness — the Dublin brewer — at an expense of $900,000! The pulpit cost $5,000, and was erected by Mr. Guinness as a memorial of a deceased friend. There are a few monuments erected to the memory of distinguished men. This marble slab marks the resting place of Jonathan Swift, who was once dean of the Cathedral. The music ^^ furnished" by the choir, is said to be " very fine." The prin- cipal singer receives the modest salary of $2,500 a year ! And this too, in poor ^^auld Ireland !" The Castle of Dublin is worthy of a visit. Here reigns and rules the Lord-Lieutenant. He is the representative of Her Majesty, and assisted by a *' privy council," governs the island. The various apartments are spacious, elegantly furnished, and DUBLIN TO DERRY. 71 beautifully decorated. The vice- regal chapel is a gem. It is most elaborately ornamented with oak carvings, and beautified with the emblazoned " arms '^ of the successive vice-roys. Brilliant were the receptions, and costly the banquets in this castle, during the reign of the polished Chesterfield as Lord-Lieutenant. Here assembled the chivalry and beauty of the Emerald Isle. Here walked in triumph Miss Ambrose, ^'the matchless beauty^' of the court. And here too, the Misses Gunnings, declared to be the '' handsomest women alive," won the admiration of the assembled courtiers. Phoenix Park affords the citizens ample play- ground. It covers an area of 1,750 acres, and is adorned with statues and monuments. Dublin is not distinguished for its commerce. In former days the manufacture of " poplin " w^as a leading industry; but at the present time, only 200 looms are at work upon this Irish fabric. The wages paid mechanics and laboring men, vary from 75 cents to $1.50 per day. We enjoy a Sabbath in this ancient city. Quiet prevails, the churches are crowded, and but few cases of drunkenness are observed. In the Pres- byterian churches the singing is good, and the preaching excellent. The sermons are not written, but ''notes" are used. The preachers wear a 72 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. gown, which makes us doubtful, for a while, of the "ecclesiastical connections" of the incumbent; but the absence of organs and responses, and the presence of Francis Kouse, aiford inspiring assu- rance of the character of the place. The Sabbath-schools are not quite so well attended, nor are the services as "interesting'^ as in America. Thorough home instruction, is an article of faith with Irish Presbyterians. The training of the young is not handed over exclusively to the Sabbath-school teacher ; hence perhaps the slim attendance upon the services of the school. But the sanctuary is magnified : parents and children walk hand in hand to the house of God: whole families maybe seen sitting side by side; and thus the children early learn to respect and reverence the place of prayer. Parents appear to exercise some authority over their children, and children — even of large growth — seem to yield a willing obedience. But we climb the "Nelson Monument," 121 feet high, and take a last view of the Irish metropolis. What a wide and magnificent prospect I The city lies at our feet encircled by green fields and waving woods; and the bay shimmers in the distance, flecked with tiny sail, that move phantom-like over its shining waters. Few cities have given to the world greater men. Here Wellington, Burke, DUBLIN TO DERRY. 73 Moore, and Grattan, first beheld the light of day. And in yonder venerable University were edu- cated those, who, in the centuries past, adorned the various professions, shaped the policy of kings, and roused the nations by their lofty and impas- sioned eloquence. Belfast is distant from Dublin 112 miles, and for 50 miles the railroad skirts the Irish sea. The view of land and water is charming. Yonder are the Skerry Islands, to which St. Patrick fled when pursued by the Druids. Here is the village of Balbriggan, famous as the birth place of the " Bal- briggan hose." And this is the town of Drogheda, and yonder the ^" Boyne w^aters !" This is the scene of one of the most memorable and eventful battles in Irish history. On July 1st, 1690, Wil- liam, Prince of Orange, met and defeated James II., -in the "battle of the Boy ne.'^ Throughout this region, the soil is well cultivated, the houses neat, and the surroundings attractive. The smoothly shaven lawns are wdiite with bleaching linen, and the whir and hum of spindles, and the crowds of keen-eyed merchants, tell the traveller that he has reached Belfast. This city is the commercial metropolis of Ire- land. The situation and surroundings are pleasing to the eye ; and the business activity of the people, the neatness of the dwellings, and cleanness of the 74 WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. streets, make a favorable impression upon the tourist. Northeastward, is the Belfast lake — a beautiful sheet of water — twelve miles long and five broad, over which the shipping pass to the sea. Northward, Cave Hill rises to a height of 1,200 feet, from the summit of which a command- ing view may be had of the lake, the ocean, the greater part of County Down, and the western coast of Scotland. At the base of this hill is the magnificent re- sidence of the Marquis of Donegal, the owner of the soil. To the south and east, the fields stretch away into the dim distance, revealing in the waving grass and ripening grain, every shade of green. In 1871, Belfast had a population of 175,000. Of this number 119,000 were Protestant; and of the latter 61,000 were Presbyterians. This deno- mination constitutes over one-third of the entire population. The principal streets are wide, well paved, and quite clean. The stores are large, well stocked with the ^^ finest linen," — the fancy dis- play in the windows equalling anything of the kind we have heretofore seen. There are quite a number of handsome private residences; some magnificent public buildings — colleges, hospitals, museums — built in different styles of architecture, on sites beautiful and commanding. The Queen's DUBLIN TO DERRY. T5 College, is an imposing edifice, 600 feet long, and pleasantly located. The people of Belfast are bright, active, intel- ligent. Such healthy-looking men and women we have never before seen. Here are faces round as the full moon, and ruddy as the sunset. And then the tones of the voice are so musical. What music when three thousand unite, as in the Ulster Hall, in singing some familiar and dearly- loved psalm or paraphrase ! The industries are numerous. Shipbuilding is conducted on quite a large scale. Some of the best boats of the ''White Star Line^' were launched from the yard on Queen's Island. The linen trade, however, engages the attention, and furnishes employment to the larger portion of the population. It is to the manufacture and sale of linen, that Belfast is indebted for the wealth it pos- sesses, and the influence it wields. There are a number of mills, — some of them employing as many as 3,000 operatives. All the flax handled is not grown in Ireland, nor is the Irish flax regarded as the superior article. Flax is imported from Russia, Belgium and France. Some manufacturers prefer the French, while others regard the Belgic, as the better ma- terial. We are conducted through one of the largest 76 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. mills, and witness the various processes of scutch- ing, carding, spinning, warping and weaving. Around us whir and hum over 30,000 spindles, while 2,000 operatives, — men, women and girls, — watch and guide the flying machinery, pack and press the newly-made fabric, and pile it on wait- ing wagons, that bear it to the merchant's store. The men receive from seven to nine dollars, and the women and girls from two to three dollars per week. The quantity of thread and linen stored in some of these warehouses is very large. A merchant who kindly conducts us through his vast establish- ment, states that in taking stock recently, "he figured up for fun," the quantity of yarn on hand, and found that it would encircle the globe 107 times ! There are schools organized in connection with some of these factories. Rooms are furnished with desks, benches and books. Maps hang upon the walls. Teachers are appointed and paid by the company. And in these schools the " half-timers" are educated without charge. These ^' half-timers" are the young of both sexes, who are only em- ployed, or permitted to labor, a certain number of hours each day. The remaining hours are spent in these " factory schools,'' and thus mental train- ing, and physical toil, go hand in hand. [^DUBLIN TO DERRY. 77 But the great event of the week is the meeting of the General Assembly. Belfast is the strong- hold of Presbyterlanism ; and the assembling of the ministers and elders of this orthodox church, in this orthodox town, excites quite an interest among both rich and poor, old and young. The church in which the Assembly meets is St. Enoch's, a recently erected edifice, capable of seat- ing over two thousand people. The internal ar- rangements are novel. There are two galleries, and there are two platforms. Upon each platform stands a pulpit, the higher platform being nearly on a plane with the upper gallery. The members of the Assembly, and delegates from foreign bodies, occupy seats on the first floor. The galleries are " reserved,'^ — an admission fee being charged, varying from six to twelve cents. The Irish General Assembly is not a represen- tative body, ministerially. There are some six hundred ministers in connection with the church, and they are all supposed to be present at every an- nual meeting. Each church is represented by one elder. The moderator is elected, not by calling the entire roll of members, but by calling the roll of Presbyteries. Presbyteries vote, through some individual member, for the candidate put in nomi- nation. The nominee having the majority of Presbyterial votes, is declared moderator. This 78 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. officer is thus practically elected at the Presbyterial meetings held prior to the meeting of the Assem- bly, and is not voted for directly by that body. To those not familiar with such time-saving ecclesiastical machinery, tlie results are both sur- prising and amusing. The echo of the last Pres- byterial vote has scarcely died away among the rafters, before the newly-elected moderator steps upon the platform gowned and handed, and pro- ceeds to deliver a discourse of immense length, and of great philosophic and theologic pretensions ! He knew all about the " coming man,'^ and pre- pared himself accordingly. And while the voting was in progress, he was decking himself in an ad- jacent room with the robes of office. In the transacting of business, there is an amusing admix- ture of the grave and the gay, the humorous and the solemn, the noisy and disorderly, and the pro- foundly meditative and prayerful. During the discussion of some exciting topic, the moderation and self-restraint of some of the members are severely tested. The ^' Sustentation" scheme excites a lively debate. If there be any subject upon which an Irish preacher can talk with force and fervor, it is ^' Sustentation.^^ And the result is manifest to all. Never have we seen a better '^ sustained'^ set of theologians. Such theological limbs, bodies, and heads, are only seen DUBLIN TO DERBY. 79 in Ireland. There is a considerable amount of muscular Christianity, in this ancient and venera- ble body. Then, these preachers are splendid debaters, — so keen, logical, fluent, impassioned, brilliant ! And how mercilessly they handle an opponent ! Nev- er shall we forget the scene witnessed during the discussion of the " organ question.^^ There was very little harmony in the body, while the use of the " harmonium" was the subject of debate. Some of the brethren had, during the previous year, in- troduced that harmless and helpful instrument to their choirs. The young people were delighted. Some of the old people were offended. The mat- ter was brought to the attention of Presbytery, and now came before the General Assembly. What excitement among those venerable men ! Yonder is an old patriot so opposed to organs, that he per- sists in occupying the platform, while two co-pres- byters are endeavoring to lead him off. No, never ! until by facts and figures, dates and deliverances, he '^ shuts the mouths of these patent worshipping machines ! " And yet, when the meeting is ad- journed, there is no more genial, jovial, warm- hearted set of men on earth. All that occurred during the heat of discussion is forgiven and forgotten, and they gather round the well- laden table of some generous host, and give 80 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. swift wings to the hours, by their amusing anec- dotes, quick flashes of wit, and merry peals of laughter. Apart from the stated meetings of the Assembly, there were several pleasant gatherings of the mem- bers, and invited guests. Prominent among these, were the breakfasts at Ulster hall. These break- fasts are provided by the Presbyterian ladies of Belfast, for the members of Assembly, their wives and daughters, and the deputations from foreign bodies. The Hall is an immense structure, and most beaufully decorated for the occasion. The flags of those nations having delegates in attendance, are gracefully suspended from the galleries, and among them the ^' stars and stripes/' Sixty tables, each fifty feet long, groan under the most tempting viands, — every conceivable luxury. Flowers of various hue, and tastefally arranged, grow out of tiny vases, making the air odorous with perfume. Hundreds of sweet-voiced, rosy cheeked maidens, flit hither and thither anticipat- ing some want, or, tempting the bashful guest with a sugar-coated morsel. One thousand guests are seated, — the delegates from abroad being honored with conspicuous positions at the Moderator's table. The arrangements are admirable, and the success complete. Some of the brethren are called BELFAST. IRISH GEXERAL ASSEMBLY. 81 upon for speeches; and such mirth-provoking, and laughter-exciting addresses, can only be heard at an Irish feast. And is laughter an enemy to ,good digestion? By no means. Who are the dyspeptics ? Are they those who at the table en- joy ^' the feast of reason, and the flow of soul?'' Certainly not. They are the solemn eaters ; the men and women who go to, and return from the table, as if that were to be their last earthly meal. They eat in silence, and the penalty is paid in suf- fering. Not so apparently with these Irishmen. They '^ laugh and grow fat." A breakfast is provided by the ladies forming the " Total Abstinence Society," and the Assembly invited. All are welcome, provided they be 'Hotal abstainers." Being duly qualified, we proceed to the lecture-room of Dr. Cook's old church on May Street. AVe are surprised and de- lighted, at the number of ministers and elders pre- sent, — headed by the gentlemanly Moderator. Temperance is becoming popular, among both the ministry, and laity, of the Irish Presbyterian Church. Multitudes are total abstainers. And during the discussions in the General Assembly, quite an advanced position was taken by many of the leading members, and some very able speeches made in advocacy of the doctrine. The whiskey- bottle, and the punch- bowl, are gradually disap- 4 82 WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. pearing; and even the wine-cup, is seldom seen upon the table. Drinking is a dangerous custom. And the scenes of drunkenness, witnessed in these Irish towns, are heart-rending. Little children clad in torn garments, leading drunken fathers and mothers along the highways ! Oh, what misery, and wretchedness, and woe, the cup brings to thousands of Irish homes ! A grand Sabbath-school meeting, is held annu- ally during the sessions of the Assembly. Three of the largest churches are selected, and the entire Sabbath-school force of Belfast, teachers and schol- ars, march from their respective schools to the places appointed. These thousands of teachers and scholars, march- ing through the streets of a Sabbath afternooon, Avith Bible in hand, was a spectacle not soon to be forgotten. Nor were they all clad in purple, and *' fine linen.'' Many of these boys and girls, be- longing to the mission schools, were bare-footed, and wore soiled and tattered garments. Over three thousand assembled at Dr. Cook's old church on May Street, and were addressed by delegates from Scotland, France, and America. The reception given by the General Assembly to the various deputations from abroad, is hearty and enthusiastic. Never have we listened to such thundering applause so long continued. Matteo BELFAST. EECEPTION OF DELEGATES. 83 Prochet, from the Italian Church, Pastor Lorriaux, of Paris, Dr. Donald Frazer, of London, represent- ing the English Presbyterian Church, and Pro- fessor Blaikie, of Edinburgh, are heard in succes- sion. But it should be stated, that the most respectful, and yet the most enthusiastic reception, is accorded the delegates from the great Presby- terian Church of the United States. The response by Dr. William Johnstone, of Belfast, is witty, eloquent, brilliant. The Irish people, rich and poor, Protestant and Roman Catholic, love America. This fact is daily impressed upon us, as we wander from place to place. In the meanest hovel, and among the poorest and most ignorant peasantry in the wilds of Con naught, expressions of love for, and interest in, the country beyond the sea, were frequent and emphatic. And in this city of Belfast, men of culture, learning, and wealth, are most enthusiastic admirers of America and its institutions. Hence, whenever the American delegates appear upon the platform, the house is crowded, and the reception given is most hearty and inspiring. But our duties as a delegate being discharged, and the Assembly having adjourned, other places must be visited. The " Giants' Causeway,'' some forty or fifty miles distant, invites us, and we wander thither. This 84 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. excursion is most enjoyable. The railroad skirts the northwest shore of Belfast Lough, affording a charming view of the harbor, Cave Hill, and the home of the Marquis of Donegal ; then winding around the ''Hill/' it runs through well tilled fields, with here and there a cluster of shining cottages shielded by shady trees, until Antrim is reached. At this point the traveller catches a glimpse of Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom. Strange stories are told respecting its origin, and the petrifying properties of its waters. The formation of the lake, is ascribed to the carelessness of a woman ! Poor creatures, for what mischief, do the legends and traditions of the past hold them responsible ! And yet, this carelessness was pardonable. In the year 65 (long, long ago), she went to the well to draw water. This well must remain covered; else it will overflow, and ruin the land. The woman, hearing the cries of her infant child, hastened away, forgetting to cover this sacred fountain. And lo ! it rises and overflows, until 98,000 acres, are submerged, and the largest lake in Great Britain, shines before the eyes of the frightened inhabitants ! Fishermen of keen sight, and brilliant imagina- tion, have discovered beneath its silvery waves, the LOUGH NEAGH — BALLYMENA. 85 ruins of ancient castles. And Moore has published the discovery, in the following lines: — " On Lougli Neagh's banks, as the fisherman strays, When the clear soft eve's declining, He sees the round towers of other days In the wave, beneath him shining. Thus shall memory often, in dreams sublime, Catch a glimpse of the days that are over, Thus sighing, look through the waves of time. For the long faded glories they cover." Ballymena, a town of six thousand inhabitants, and one of the largest flax and linen markets in Ireland, and Coleraine, situated on the beautiful river Ban, are both visited. The latter is an ancient town, dating back to the sixth century, and famous for the manufacture of a fine quality of linen, known as " Coleraines." Portrush is reached, and we are in sight of the ^^ Causeway." At Portrush, the celebrated Adam Clarke was born, in 1762. He was apprenticed to a linen manu- facturer, but being of studious habits, and finding that employment uncongenial, he changed his oc- cupation and became a school master. He taught school in this town ; and an obelisk erected to his memory, occupies a conspicuous position in this northern sea-port. The Giant's Causeway is along the coast, eight 86 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. miles distant, and we are off in a jaunting car. The day is bright, and a fresh wind blowing. Driven shoreward by the pressure of the blast, the white-capped waves leap like racers over the *' Skerries/^ and dash with fury against the rock- bound coast. "A coorse day on the wather," mutters our coachman, and we readily concur. All along the shore, the white limestone rocks are carved into the most fantastic shapes, by the action of the billow^s. Here is the " Giant's Head," and '* Spy glass," ^Tin Mac-Coule's Nose," the '* Devil's Punch Bowl," and the three '^ Sugar Loaves." But by far the most interesting object before reaching the Causeway, is " Dunluce Castle." The ruins are exceedingly picturesque. The castle stands one hundred feet above the sea, on a perpendicular rock. The outer walls of the castle are built upon the edge of the rock, and seem but a continuation of it. The entire surface of the rock is covered by the ruins, and the only connection with the main land, is by a wall about eighteen inches broad. In ancient times this castle, thus situated, must have been well-nigh impregnable. It was erected, fought for, and occupied, centuries ago, by the Lords of Ulster. Here, the brave MacQuil- lians, and the lion-hearted MacDonalds, measured THE giant's causeway. 87 lances^ and the triumphant chief marched in pride around the sea-girt walls. But how changed the scene to-day ! The warrior has disappeared ; the noise of battle and the voice of song have ceased ; while through the deserted halls, the wind plain- tively wails, as if over the desolation time has wrought. The Giant's Causeway is certainly a wonderful place. It is quite unique in the spectacle which it presents. There are two objects, or classes of objects, that challenge our attention. The first, is the ^'Headland;" and the second, the ''Cause- way'' proper. The Headland rises to a height of 370 feet, and, at some points, reveals thirteen dif- ferent strata. The shape assumed by, and the relative position of the strata, form the striking feature. At about twelve feet from the summit, the -rock is formed into ranges of pillars, or columns. These pillars are in a vertical position, each pillar being sixty feet high. This range of pillars rests on a bed of coarse rock, sixty feet thick. Beneath this rocky entablature, is a second range of pillars, each forty- five feet high, resting upon a coarse unshapen strata : — and thus to the surface of the sea. The "Amphitheatre/' is very striking. The headland assumes an exact semi-circular form. Around the upper part, runs a row of columns, 88 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. each column being eighty feet high. Then follows a projection of rock. Beneath this rocky projection, is another row of pillars, each sixty feet high. Then comes another rocky projection, or bench for the giants, — and thus clown to the sea, forming a beautiful harbor. The '' Gicmfs Organ '^ is forty-five feet high, and composed of a number of pillars, long and short, arranged like the strings of a harp. On this instrument, the giants played for the amusement of their o;uests ! The clear metallic rinff of these rocks, tempts the ^' guide'' to propound his theory of the objects, and uses, of these strange formations. He walks up, strikes one of the ^' strings '' of this wonderful harp, and then inquires if we hear the music! We respond in the affirmative. Then he replies, what must have been the tender, and pa- thetic modulations, when the giant's fingers moved amono; those strings ! The headland is also remarkable for the color of the strata. The entire cliff appears as if painted. Here are various shades of green, vermilion rock, red ochre, intermingled with lichens, ferns and rock plants ; and the whole surface, from the shining waters to the grassy summit, is sprinkled with blooming sea daisies. The '^Causeway,'' is composed of a number of pillars, forming a pathway into the sea. There 89 are over forty thousand of these cohimns ! Tliey are regular in shape, and fit together as closely as if cut and adjusted by some skilful hand. Our guide points out columns having three, four, five, six, eight, and nine sides and angles. But strange to state, that of these forty thousand pillars, but one is triangular, and only threey are possessed of nine sides ! Here is a wishing-chair. The seat is an octa- gon, — a stone having eight sides ; three other stones, different in shape, form the back ; and the feet rest upon another, unlike either of the preceding. Now, how can we account for these strange and beautiful formations ? There are two theories, — the geological, and the mythical. Geologists tell us, that these pillars are composed of about one-half flinty earth, one-quarter iron, and one-quarter clay and lime. They are plutonic in their origin. They are formed by a fusion of the above elements into one mass, which in cooling, has cracked or crystallized, into the strange shapes already de- scribed. At what period in the world's history, this fusion and crystallization took place, we are not informed. The mythical theory, is somewhat amusing, Fin Mac Coul, was champion of Ireland. A Scottish giant offered to fight " Fin,^' for the '^belt," and the "championship." Fin, like a 4* 90 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. good Irishman, accepted the challenge. But how could these ''sporting gentlemen ^^ be brought together ? The surging sea separated them. Fin applied to the King, for permission to build a highway to Scotland. The King granted permis- sion ; the Causeway was built, and the Scotchman was beaten ! Here is a well, right by the sea. The waters are fresh, and sweet, as a mountain spring. An old Irish gentleman — a descendant, doubtless, of Mr. McCoul — sits by the well, and kindly invites the tourist to drink of the spark- ling waters. The charge is a sixpence, but the beverage is refreshino:. But here comes the mendicant merchants, with photographs, and "specimens'^ boxed up, and ready for shipment. And the rush, and the roar, to make the first sale ! " Irish Diamond ! '' shouts one ; '' Malachite ! " thunders another ; "Jasper!'' roars a long, mean-looking fellow ; while a tooth- less old woman presses to the front with a bundle of photographs, in one of which, her venerable self, is the most conspicuous object. There is no escape. Vie are completely sur- rounded. "The whole box for a shilling!" screams a little fellow, who has come down from the highest heading with the swiftness of an eagle. We apologize for appearing among them, and ex- citing this rivalry in the sale of needless articles; giant's causeway to derry. 91 but no excuse will be accepted by these blatant, bullying beggars. And to escape from this mot- ley crowd, we make a few purchases, and rush on to Londonderry. This city has a population of 25,000, and is beautifully located on the banks of the river Foyle. The ground on w^hich the city is built, is sloping, and the summit of this sloping hill is crowned by the Protestant Cathedral. The city was fortified with walls, which still remain, en- circling the old town. The walls are one mile in length, and from fifteen to thirty feet wide. They furnish a fine parade and promenade ground, and afford a magnificent view of the surrounding country. The newly-built portion of the town, communicates with the " ancient city '' through seven gates, and over some of these archways, are stone effigies of historic characters. The religious history of the locality is quite in- teresting. An abbey was founded in London- derry, in the early part of the sixth century, by Columbkille. The present Cathedral, occupies the site of this ancient abbey. Columbkille, was born in the county Donegal, and was a most en- terprising and successful missionary. One hun- dred monasteries in Ireland, owed their orio^in to this Presbyterian Evangelist. These monasteries, were missionary colleges, established in connection 92 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. with churches : and thus learning, and religion, walked hand in hand, in those far distant ages. The population of Derry is largely Protestant. The handsome structure of the " McGee College/' occupies a conspicuous position on the left bank of the river. This edifice cost ^100,000, and was the gift of a Dublin lady to the Presbyterian Church. The Roman Catholics have erected a "Cathedral," on a commanding site, overlooking the river. Our guide informs us, that these poor people have been collecting money for this purpose, during the past thirty-six years. Penny by penny, shilling by shilling, for thirty-six years ! Can we fail to admire such persistence, in the midst of such poverty? Is not this the secret of their success in church erection? Every member gives — it may be but a trifle — and gives con- tinually. What vast sums of money are con- tributed by the poor Irish servant girls in America, for the support of the Roman Catholic Church ! How noble edifices, and magnificent cathedrals, rise along our fashionable promenades, stone upon stone being laid, and pinnacle after pinnacle reared, by the contributions of these so-called menials ! How many of the Protestants who hire them, might learn a lesson of loyalty to their own church, from the example thus set before them ! How much there is of dead orthodoxy ! THE CITY OF LONDONDERRY. 93 The siege of Derry, was a memorable event. In December, 1688, there was an uprising against the Protestants. The '^apprentice boys'' closed the gates against the invading army, and the town was besieged. The siege lasted 105 days, during which time, the citizens suffered most intensely. Tallow, hides, and the flesh of dogs, were eaten to sustain life. Twenty-three hundred of the inhabitants died of famine, or by violence. The besieged, were inspired by the Rev. George Walker, who prophesied coming deliverance, and gallantly defended the city. In 1828, a monument was erected to the memory of this patriot. It is a handsome Doric column, 120feet high, surmounted by a statue, and stands upon those immortal " walls." Here also, close to the monument, is '' Roaring Meg " — the cannon that '^ won the day." And here, stands six of the thirteen sycamore trees, planted by the thirteen apprentice boys, who dared to close the gates against Lord Antrim's men. Nor have the patriots all passed away. We are greeted by one, eighty years of age, a most venerable and intelligent old Irishman. He is thoroughly familiar with the history of the siege, the localities famed for conflicts, the old houses used as prisons, and everything pertaining to the past and the present of the city. He presses us to go around the walls "just once more/' and 94 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. with descriptions of men and events, in chaste lan- guage and fervid eloquence, delights and charms us, until late in the afternoon. Begging to be ex- cused from further explorations, and assuring him of our high regard for his knowledge, patriotism, and eloquence, the old man, assuming an attitude erect, defiant, lifts his right hand, and pointing in the direction of a neighboring valley, repeats, with distinctness and emphasis, — " When Lord Antrim's men came down yon glen, With drums and trumpets gay, The apprentice boys, they heard the noise, And then prepared for play!" A bright shilling is placed in his hand, and lo, in a twinkling, he has disappeared ! Before bidding adieu to the Emerald Isle, a few facts may be stated respecting the cost of living, and of travelling, and the social habits of the people. The railroad rates are, for like accommodation, about the same as in America, — perhaps a trifle cheaper. The hotel charges are reasonable, but the statements of a hotel-keeper are liable to be misunderstood, or to deceive. He will inform you that lodging is, perhaps, two shillings. In the morning, on the bill, it appears to be nearly four shillings. Sundry items not previously named now appear, such as " attendance,^' *' blacking DERKY. MATCH-MAKING. WAKES. 95 boots/^ etc. Then, in hiring a conveyauce, you agree to pay so much, and suppose that to be the sum total of the expense. But on returning, the driver claims, and insists upon receiving, an addi- tional sum, equal in some cases to one third of the original charges. In the hotels, the bar-tenders are generally wo- men. Women sit down with men, and drink, without any apparent loss of self-respect. Women walk together to the ^Havern,'' call for their whis- key, drink it, and pass along without being criti- cised. At fairs and markets, men and women march through the streets singing ballads, and selling the printed songs at a half-penny apiece. When a young couple discover that " life, without the other, would be a desert drear," ^ the parents come together for the purpose of '^ match-making. '^ So many cows, sheep, pigs, goats, are demanded as a dowry. If the demands are regarded as exces- sive, or the parents of the bride are unable to com- ply, then follows a discussion, in which the advantages of the '' union,'' and the pedigree of the family, are skilfully presented. These discussions are exceedingly interesting. The high contracting parties hold adjourned meet- ings; and many a spirited debate is held over the gift of an additional sheep, or the claim to an extra porker. 96 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. When the dowry is settled, and the union con- summated, then comes what is euphoniously termed the " dragging home.^^ The bride and groom, mounted upon the same steed, and accompanied by a score or more couples on horseback, dash along the highways, — usually in the evening, — to their future home. The character of an Irish " wake," is pretty well understood. When the corpse is 'Maid out," candles are lighted, and pipes and tobacco placed either on the corpse, or close beside it. The whis- key bottle stands upon the table. As each friend of the departed arrives, the party stand around the deceased, and give expression to loud and bitter lamentations. Then, games, mystical and mirth- provoking, are indulged in by both sexes, old and young. Singing, and sighing, alternate in strange succession ; and story-telling hastens the dawn, when these laughing and sobbing mourners sud- denly disappear. These customs, it is true, pre- vail among the peasantry, and are limited to certain localities. CHAPTER V. SCOTLAND — THE LAND OF BURNS. Bidding farewell to Ireland, and embarking on the steamer ^^Rose/' we set sail fur Greenock, Scotland. The wind being favorable, our vessel sweeps along at a high rate of speed. The sail over Lough Foyle is quite enjoyable. On the left, rise the wild mountains of Donegal, and on the right, the bold '^ Headland" of the Giant's Cause- way is quite conspicuous. We are now jolted by the chopping sea of the IS^orth Channel. Rathlin Island is passed. The Mull of Cantire is rounded, and yonder is Ayr, and the land of Burns ! " 'Twas in that season, when a simple bard, Unknown and poor, simplicity's reward, Ae night, within the ancient burgh of Ayr, By whim inspired, or haply prest wi' care, He left his bed, and took his wayward route. And down by Simpson's wheel'd the left about ; The drowsy Dungeon-clock had number'd two, And Wallace tower had sworn the fact was true ; The tide-swollen Firth, with sullen, sounding roar. Through the still night dash'd hoarse along the shore." 97 98 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Next comes Arran Isle, the property of the Duke of Hamilton. We enter the Firth of Clyde, and pass the Island of Bate. On our left is Mount Stuart, the home of the Marquis of Bute, and Dunoon Castle, owned by the Duke of Argyle. On our right, on gently sloping ground, is Greenock, where our feet first touch Scottish soil. This is a lively town of 60,000 inhabitants. The principal industries, are ship building, and suo^ar refinino^. There is a very fine promenade and carriage way along the river, and some very handsome residences on the esplanade. The houses are four and five stories high, and divided into " flats,'' for the accommodation of families. The cemetery is located above the town, and is the finest we have seen thus far in our travels. The lots, are neatly enclosed with closely cut boxwood, and silver holly. Where the lots are large, the yew tree fre- quently marks the resting-place of the dead. The view from this cemetery is magnificent. The mountains of Dumbartonshire, and Argyle- shire, are in full view; and the entrance to the Gare Loch, and the Long Loch, comes within range of the eye. There is one grave in Greenock, visited by every tourist. This is in the burying-ground of the old West Kirk, and is that of Burns' Highland Mary GREENOCK. HIGHLAND MARY's GRAVE. 99 A winding path, leads to this much frequented spot. In 1842, a monument was erected, and on the upper part are chiseled medallion portraits of the lovers, — the right hands being clasped. On the lower part are engraved the following lines, from Burns^ poem — "To Mary in Heaven : '^ " Oh Mary ! dear departed shade ! Where is thy place of blissful rest? See'st thou thy lover lowly laid ? Hear'st thou the groans that rend his breast?" This Scottish maiden seems to have won the poet's heart, and her memory is perpetuated in several of Burns' most beautiful poems: *' Ye banks and braes, and streams around The Castle o' Montgomery, Green be your woods, and fair your flowers, Your waters never drumlie ! Here simmer first unfaulds her robes, And there they langest tarry : For there I took the last fareweel O' my sweet Highland Mary. But oh, fell death's untimely frost, That nipt my flower sae early ! Now green's the sod, and cauld's the clay, That wraps my Highland Mary ! And mouldering now in silent dust That heart that lo'ed me dearly ! But still within my bosom's core Shall live my Highland Mary! 100 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. A slow and solemn procession, is marching along the hill-side, to the city of the dead. In that com- j)any of mourners^ not a female form can be seen. This surprises us, being in such marked contrast with Irish funerals, where women are always among the chief mourners. But a Scotch cousin informs us, that women never attend funerals. The male relatives, only, follow the dead to their last resting-place. This may be an improvement upon the Irish and American custom, or it may not. Fewer car- riages will be required, and a saving in expense effected. And this alone, is a decided improve- ment. Why should a poor laboring man be com- pelled to provide carriages, for all the women who are desirous of going on a burial excursion ? And why should not the men, whose duty it is to at- tend, provide carriages at their own expense ? How many poor men and women, are burdened, fur months and years, with debts incurred in the burial of a friend ! A reform in funeral customs, is certainly desirable in certain places. Funerals are too expensive. There are too many flowers : too many carriages ; too many tearless mourners: too much pomp and parade. In the burial of the dead, publicity is sought after, when secrecy should be observed. And then, these Sabbath processions to the grave ! How GREENOCK. FUNEEALS. EXCURSIONS. 101 lacking in sympathy, how indifferent to the sor- rows of the bereaved, are those surging crowds that surround the home of the deceased, or struggle for admittance at the gates of the cemetery ? Surely, it must be a trying ordeal, for a sensitive mourner to be subjected to the rude gaze of a gaping and unfeeling multitude, while following the silent form of a loved one to its last resting-place. Some- times, Sabbath funerals may be a necessity. But the exclamation of a popular Philadelphia under- taker, who had for years witnessed the scenes just described, is worthy of being noted. ^^ O, I never want to be carried to the grave on a Sunday ! '^ It is customary in Greenock, and in the great manufacturing cities of Scotland, to quit work on Saturday at 12 o'clock. This enables the laboring men and their families, to make excursions to the fields, the mountains, or the lakes. It affords a rest, fresh air, and prepares the wearied laborer for the proper observance of the Sabbath. This being Saturday afternoon, silence reigns in the ship- yards, and the great manufacturing establishments are closed. Steamboats, crowded with happy ex- cursionists, are chasing each other over the Clyde, and up the Gare Loch, and the Long Loch. Fa- mily groups are scattered along the hillsides, plucking the wild flowers, and breathing the scented air. Truly, this is a pleasant way of pre- 102 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. paring for the Sabbath. Might not a similar course be adopted by our great American estab- lishments, without injury to the employer, and with profit to the employed ? Paisley, is a prosperous town, on the route to Glasgow. The Abbey Church was founded in 1163, by Walter Stuart, ancestor of the royal family of Scotland. In a small chapel, at the south side, is the tomb of Marjory, daughter of Robert Bruce, and wife of Walter Stuart. In Paisley, Wilson, the American ornithologist, was born ; and Prof. Wilson (Christopher North) was a native of this city. Glasgow, situated on the Clyde, and by it di- vided into two unequal parts, is the commercial metropolis of Scotland. In wealth and popula- tion, it ranks as the third city in the United King- dom. Over 500,000 people dwell w^ithin the city limits. Glasgow is famous for its manufacturing establishments. Ship-building is a leading in- dustry. The Clyde, from Greenock to Glasgow — some twenty miles — is a continuous ship-yard. There are more steam and sailing craft sent from these yards, than from all the other British ports combined. There are numerous linen, woolen, and cotton factories. Iron ware, pottery, machine- ry, and chemicals, are manufactured on a large scale. The St. Rollox chemical works, are said to be the largest in the world. GLASGOW : MAKUFACTOEIES, MO^sUMENTS. 103 The streets of Glasgow — most of them — are wide, stone-paved, quite clean, and lined with solid structures, four and six stories high. The building material is a light-colored, fine-grained, sandstone. In the recently erected edifices, there is very little sameness, no lack of variety in the style of architecture. It is difficult, at first sight, to determine what may be the character of a build- ing, — whether store, factory, bank, church, or fortification. Argyle Street is the principal street of Glasgow. It runs east and west, and is three miles long. The stores on Argyle, and Buchanan streets, are splendid edifices. George Square, a quadrangle of imposing struc- tures, is the finest in the city. It is ornamented with several costly monuments. Here are effigies in marble or bronze, of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, Sir Walter Scott, Sir John Moore, and Lord Clyde. Scott's monument stands in the centre of the square, and is quite conspicu- ous. It consists of a high square pedestal, and a fluted Doric column eighty feet high, surmounted by a colossal standing statue. It was the first monu- ment erected to the Scottish Bard. The University of Glasgow crowns Gilmour Hill. The buildings form a rectangle 600 feet long, and 300 feet broad, and cost over two million 104 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. dollars. The Botanic Garden, is not far distant from the University, and its beaatiful grounds, and choice collection of plants, make it a popular resort both for citizens and students. The Necropolis, or city of the dead, covers a steep, rugged eminence, 225 feet high, on the east side of Molindinar ravine. It is approached through an ornate portal, and along a handsome one-arclied bridge, called the ^' Bridge of Sighs. '^ Winding, flower-bordered paths, climb to the sum- mit, which is crowned by a lofty monument, erect- ed to the memory of Knox. The Cathedral, founded in 1133, is a Gothic edifice, 319 feet long, 63 feet wide, 90 feet high, and crowned with a spire 225 feet in height. The choir is 97 feet long, and has pews and other sit- tings in the old cathedral style. The lady chapel has exquisitely carved, early-pointed windows, and contains a monument to Archbishop Law. The crypt is 125 feet in length, and exhibits such va- rieties and combinations of structure, as to renderit, in the estimation of critics, the masterpiece of architecture in Scotland. The Cathedral has 80 stained glass windows. A number of these were executed at the royal glass-painting establishment in Munich. The subjects represent Old and New Testament history, and are arranged in chronologi- cal order. It is said that the display of stained GLASGOW, covenanters' MONUMENT. 105 glass in this Cathedral is greater, and more brilliant than in any other edifice in Great Britain. The Established Presbyterian Church holds service in the choir, at eleven and tAvo o'clock every Sabbath, The greater part of the adjoining yard, is paved with tombstones. On the north side of the Cathedral, is a simple monument to the memory of the niiie Covenanters, who suffered at the ^' Cross '' of Glasgow, " for their testimony to the Covenants." The inscription on this monument, reads as follows : " Years '6Q and '84 Did their souls home into glore, Whose bodies here interred ly, Then sacrificed to tyranny. — To Covenants Reformation Cause they adhered in their station, These nine with others in this yard, Whose heads and bodies were not spar'd, Their testimonies foes to bury ; Caus'd beat the drums then in great fury ; — They'll know at resurrection day, To murder saints was no sweet play." Here is another specimen of the antique : " Heir ur Bureit Sr Waltir, Sr Thomas, Sr Jhohe, and Sr Mathiew. By Lineal descent to Utheris Barons and Knights of the Hoys of Minto w. t. thair wvffis, Bairnis, and Bretherein." 5 106 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. These monuments remind us that Glasgow, is a Presbyterian City. What numbers of Presbyte- rian Church edifices tower along the highw^ays ! There are one hundred and eighty of these struc- tures, within the limits of the city. And some of these churches are costly and magnificent. The Sabbath day, is carefully observed in this city. Services are usually held at eleven o'clock, A. M., and two o'clock, P. M. And never have we seen such crowds of people, old and young, marching to the house of God. Here they come, filling, not only the sidewalks, but the streets ! The entire city seems to be in commotion, at the hours named. Cleanly clad, Bible in hand, in hundreds and In thousands, they press up to the gates of Zion. How beautiful is the sight ! " From scenes like these old Scotia's grandeur springs, That makes her lov'd at home, rever'd abroad. " We worship in the morning with Dr. Bonar's congregation. The doctor is a thorough Scotch- man, and most excellent preacher. There was more scripture in that morning's sermon, than in any dozen sermons to which we have yet listened. It was a rare treat, to listen to his exposition of the word of God. The pews have narrow desks, on which are placed a Bible and psalm-book, for each indi- GLASGOW. PREACHERS. CHURCH SERVICES. 107 vidual. While the Scriptures are being read, or the sermon preached, every worshipper has a Bible in hand ; and both reading, and reference, are closely scanned. The singing is not quite so good as the preaching. While the benediction is being pro- nounced, the people are seated, and remain for a few moments motionless, as if engaged in silent prayer. All notices of services are read after the benediction ; and in some churches the collection is taken up in the vestibule, after the congregation is dismissed. In the afternoon, we attend the Barony Free Church, of which Mr. Wells is pastor. The sermon is ex- cellent. The preacher uses no manuscript, shows a thorough familiarity with the Scriptures, is quite earnest, and, occasionally, truly eloquent. This church, bordering on the " Wynds,'^ is one of the most successful of the Glasgow missionary enter- prises, and is doing a noble work among the poorer classes of the vicinity. A thousand children attend its Sabbath- school. Some of these boys and girls are poorly clad, and many of them are noisy, quarrelsome, and well- nigh 'ungovernable. The hymns sung at the opening of the school are familiar: ^' Safe in the arms of Jesus,^' and '^ Lord, I hear of showers of blessings.'^ The old ^' Tron " school, and the " Wynd " schools, are visited. Here are gathered the waifs, swept in 108 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. from the ^^ Wyiids." And such a crowd of boys ! Along these streets, through these narrow and filthy lanes, and up these winding, stony stair- ways, did Chalmers w^alk, his great heart fired with the love of Jesus, and of perishing man. And nothing less potent, than the purest love for God, can sustain the Christian worker amid such surroundings. We have seen the darkest, foulest, spots in Phila- delphia and New York, but nothing to compare wdth these "' Wynds." Here, humanity is thoroughly imbruted. Men, whose bloated or shrivelled forms reveal the mastery of vice, stagger along, swearing as they go ; women, shoeless, sit in long lines on the curb-stone, muttering imprecations upon some hapless wretch ; their garments filthy, hair di- shevelled, features distorted, modesty, self-respect, shame, all gone ! God pity them ! And why this poverty, wretchedness, and de- gradation ? Why these staggering men, and de- moralized women ? Why these hago^ard looks, pallid faces, and blood-shot eyes? Why these ragged, unwashed and starving children ? And why these ceaseless strifes, and horrid oaths. And the answer comes from a thousand desolate homes, and ten thousand broken hearts — Rum ! To-day, amid these sickening sights, and dis- agreeable sounds, we find the Christian men and GLASGOW. THE WYNDS. THE FLATS. 109 women of Glasgow, toiling nobly for the uplifting of these wretched mortals. Here they are in the mission Sabbath-schools, with Bible in hand, point- ing to God as the only help, and to Jesus Christ as the great delis'erer. Success to them in their noble work ! The houses in Glasgow are, like those of Green- ock, divided into ^^ flats. '^ These flats, consist of three or four rooms on the same floor. One of these rooms, is used as a kitchen, another, as a sitting-room and dining-room, and a third, as a sleeping-room. When the family is large, two flats are rented. And the rent is quite reasonable. A suit of rooms, — three or four, — in a good location, may be rented for seventy-five dollars a year. For every flat there is a bell, and the name of the oc- cupant, is painted upon the bell-pull at the front- door. By this arrangement, the proper party is reached, and no other tenant is disturbed. The street scenes are sometimes amusing. Here is a sturdy Highlander with his bag-pipe, out of which he is squeezing some lively Scottish airs. A young athlete, handsomely dressed in Highland costume, dances along the pavement, keeping time to the music. He leaps, bends, whirls, and gyrates up and down the street, with marvelous agility. Is this a Highland fling, or a Scotch horn- pipe ? It is certainly a success. Just see the 110 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. crowds of men and women ! If one of Darwin's ancestors were on exhibition, the excitement could not be more intense. But this is better than a monkey-show, — financially, — for see the pence, how they fly from lofty windows, and jingle mer- rily upon the side-walk ! Then these "cannie Scots,'' will listen to a song. Singing in the streets, and selling the printed songs, is quite popular. Some of these songs, illustrate life on the ''flats/' — -just described. Women in Scotland, living in the same house, will have their '^little misunderstandings." And it sometimes happens, that '' outsiders" hear of it ; and occasionally, a local poet attempts to create harmony out of the discord. The following song by a Scottish bard, is an effort in this direction, which we trust will escape the notice of the ladies referred to: "Says Mistress Bell to Mistress Todd, ' Ye'd better clean the stairs ! Ye've missed your turn for mony a week, The neighbours a' did theirs.' Says Mistress Todd to Mistress Bell, ' Aw tell ye Mistress Bell, Ye'd better mind yer ain affairs, And clean the stairs yersel.' Says Mistress Todd, ' When it suits me To think that it's my turn ; Ye've a vast o' cheek ta order me. There's not a woman born GLASGOW. QUARREL ON THE STAIRS. Ill That keeps a cleaner house than me, And mark ye, Mistress Bell, If ye'd only do the same as me, Ye'd gang and clean yersel.' Says Mistress Bell, ' Ye clarty fash, Wha was't that stole the beef?' ' What do ye say ? ' cries Mistress Todd, ' Do ye mean that aw'm a thief?' Says Mistress Todd, ' Ye greet skyet-gob, Ye'd better baud yer jaw, The very clothes upon yer back Belangs the wife below ! ' Chorus : O, what tungs i' tl\2 row upon the stair^i, Glittering, clattering, scandal and clash r the row upon the stairs.'' But all Scottish women, are not modelled after the pattern of Mistress Bell, or Mistress Todd. There are a number of very useful, and inoffensive females, scattered through the country. But as is frequently the case in other lands, they are not al- ways fully appreciated. Their skill, thrift, and good house-wife qualities, lack recognition. They are willing to make others happy. They are craving for wider fields of usefulness. Their breathings after fellowship with some appreciative swain, are very tender, and cannot fail to awaken a loving response. One of these neglected ones, thus appeals : '' Noo I'm a braw lassie, wi' guid claes an' plenty, A wee pickle siller an' a', 1J2 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Baitli weel-faurt and sonsie, and rosey and dainty, Will nane o' ye tak' me awa' ? I can shape, I can shew, an' am real guid at spinnin', I'll keep ye aye cosy an' braw, I'll clean up yer hoose, I'll attend t' yer linen, An' darn yer stockins an' a'. I'll no fash my head wi' political matters, Like ladies that make me think shame ; But let them come to me wi' clavers and clatters, I'll tell them their place is at hame. I'm maistly gane oot o' my senses wi' anger, I may speak till the day that I dee, But I see that's needless t' stand any langer, There's naebody here wanting me." Chorus: "For it's noo high time I was married ye. see, I would like to be settled in life ; I think a bit laddie could hardly dae better Than tak' me, and mak' me his wife." The following song is sung, by the women, with great energy : '' I can wash, I can bake, I can brew, I can spin, And when I gang to kirk, oh ! don't I cut a shine, But there's naethin' in this worl' wad mak' me ha' sae cheery As if I had a young man jist tae ca' me dearie." This young woman has many admirable quali- ties, which young men should carefully consider. But how vain is the lassie! . She '^cuts a shine," in church ! What a singular weakness, for so ex- cellent a worker. GLASGOW. SHINING LASSIES. 113 Now why should the fringes, and flounces, the flowers, and feathers, be carefully preserved for ex- hibition in the kirk ? Are not the wearers dis- tracted in thinking about them ; and are not the worshippers distracted in looking at them ? Are not other maidens, whose circumstances will not permit them to ^^shine,^^ tempted to remain at home, and not attend the kirk ? And will not the prudent " laddies/' avoid these " shining lassies,'^ fearing the future expense? ^^ Cutting a shine'' in church, is a naughty habit. From Glasgow to Edinburgh, over the moun- tains and the lakes, is 111 miles. We reach Loch Lomond. This is regarded as the finest of the Scottish lakes. It is 23 miles long, and in some places 5 miles broad. The depth is from 20, to 100, fathoms. Studded with sparkling islands, and surrounded by wild rugged mountains, its shining shores have witnessed many a bloody encounter between the warlike Highland clans. How often has the lofty ^^ Ben Lomond," looked down upon the struggles of contending chiefs ! Having secured a pleasant position, on a lively little steamer, we float away towards the north, among " Those emerald isles, Avhich calmly sleep On the blue bosom of the deep." 5* 114 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Here is the beautiful isle of Inch Murrin, — the property of the Duke of Montrose. It is the largest of Loch Lomond's islands, and furnishes an ample play-ground for the swift-footed deer. Rounding the wooded promontory of Hoss, we reach Rowardennan. Ben Lomond towers above us 3,200 feet. The distance from the lake to the summit is four miles ; and the view from this mountain, is said to be one of the finest in Scot- land. The lake now becomes quite narrow, and the mountains on either side grow wild and ro- mantic. Yonder, on the bushy banks, at the base of the hill, is Rob Roy's Prison. How the very name, suggests Clannish strife, and deadly com- bat ! " Yes, slender aid from fancy's glass It needs, as round these shores we pass, 'Mid glen and thicket dark, to scan The wild Mac Gregor's savage clan." At Inversnaid, passengers for Loch Katrine are landed. This is the scene of Wordsworth's ex- quisite poem, — '^To a Highland Girl." " Sweet Highland girl, a very shower Of beauty is thy earthly dower ! Twice seven consenting years have shed Their utmost beauty on thy head ; What hand but would a garland cull For thee, who art so beautiful ? SCOTLAND. LOCH LOMOND, HIGHLAND-GIRL. 115 Oh, liapi^y pleasure here to dwell Beside thee in some heathy dell : Adopt your homely ways and dress, A shepherd, thou a shepherdess ! Nor am I loath, though pleased at heart, Sweet Highland girl ! from thee to part ; For I, methinks, till I grow old, As fair- before me shall behold, As I do now, the cabin small. The lake, the bay, the waterfall : And thee the spirit of them all ! " A four-horse chariot, carries us over the moor, from Inversnaid to the banks of Loch Katrine. The scenery is exceedingly wild. Floeks of sheep roam over the hills, and no sound greets the ear, except the bleating of some fleecy wanderer, — " Away on the mountain wild and bare, Away from the tender shepherd's care." We touch the shores of Loch Katrine at Stro- nachlachar. This beautiful sheet of water, and the mountains surrounding it, have been immortalized by Scott, in the " Lady of the Lake.'^ The uses to which it is put to-day, are much more practical than poetical. Its waters are conducted over the mountains, and through the glens, all the way to Glasgow. And in that populous centre, they quench the thirst, cook the food, and wash the faces of half a million of Scots. 116 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The scenery around the eastern shore is magni- ficent, and, in some features at least, corresponds with the description of the poet : '' The broom's tough roots his ladder made, The hazel saplings lent their aid ; And thus an airy point he won Where, gleaming with the setting sun, One burnished sheet of living gold, Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled ; In all her length far winding lay, With promontory, creek, and bay, And islands that, empurpled bright. Floated amid the livelier light ; And mountains, that like giants stand. To sentinel enchanted land. High on the south, huge Ben-venue Down to the lake in masses threw Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled The fragments of an earlier world ; A wildering forest feathered o'er His ruined sides and summit hoar. While on the north, through middle air, Ben-an heaved high his forehead bare." This summer's day on the lake, will long be remembered. The sky is bright ; the wind blows gently over the silvery waters ; the islands charm by their beauty ; and the mountains loom up so grand ! " The summer dawn's reflected hue To purple changed Loch Katrine blue ; LOCH KATRINE. LADY OF THE LAKE. 117 Mildly and soft the wsstern breeze Just kissed the lake, just stirred the trees. The grey mist left the mountain side, The torrent showed its glistening pride ; Invisible in flecked sky. The lark sent down her revelry ; The blackbird and the speckled thrush Good-morrow gave from brake and bush." This little island on our left,, is historic^ — at least in poetry. But there are no skiffs to-day, skimming the shining waters ; and no beauteous form, guiding the tiny craft. We are not quite so fortunate as the huntsman, who, after the sound of his magic horn, looked wonderingly as, — '' From underneath an aged oak, That slanted from the islet rock, A Damsel, guider of its way, A little skiff shot to the bay. That round the promontory steep Led its deep line in graceful sweep, Eddying, in almost viewless wave, The weeping willow twig to lave, And kiss, with whispering sound and slow, The beach of pebbles bright as snow. The boat had touch'd the silver strand, Just as the hunter left his stand. And stood concealed amid the brake, To view this Lady of the Lake. And ne'er did Grecian chisel trace A Nymph, a Naiad, or a Grace, Of finer form, or lovelier face ! 118 WANDEEIKGS IN EUEOPE. What though no rule of courtly grace To measured mood had trained her pace — A foot more light, a step more true, Ne'er from the heath-flower dashed the dew What though upon her speech there hung The accents of the mountain tongue — Those silver sounds, so soft, so dear, The listener held his breath to hear." CHAPTER yi. LOCH KATRINE TO ABBOTSFORD. A FOUR-HOESE stage is in waiting, and we ride through the wild Trossachs, to Callandar. This is the scene of the chase. It was here " The wild quarry shunned the shock, And turned him from the the opposing rock ! Then, dashing down a darksome glen, Soon lost to hound or hunter's ken, In the deep Trossach's wildest nook, His solitary refuge took." And in this rocky, woody wiklerness, the Knight of Snowdoun, — James Fitz- James, — '^ lost his gal- lant gray.'^ "See/' says the driver, "it was just at this point '^ " Close on the hounds the hunter came. To cheer them on the vanished game ; But, stumbling in the rugged dell. The gallant horse exhausted fell. The impatient rider strove in vain To rouse him with the spur and rein, 119 120 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. For the good steed, his labors o'er, Stretched his stiff limbs to rise no more." Here is Loch Achray, where in quietness and beauty, " The rocks — the bosky thickets sleep, So stilly in thy bosom deep." A short distance from the Loch, we pass the Highland huts of Duncraggan, and the entrance to the deer-forest of Glenfinlas. Along these hill- sides, and through these valleys, the bold and brave Roderick-Dhu, walked at the head of the Clan-Alpine. Here he whistled and the warriors, quick-footed, hastened to their chief. " He whistled shrill. And he was answered from the hill ; Wild was the scream of the curlew, From crag to crag the signal flew- Instant, through copse and heath, arose Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows : On right, on left, above, below, Sprang up at once the lurking foe ; From shingles grey their lances start, The bracken-bush sends forth the dart, The rushes and the willow-wand Are bristling into axe and brand, And every tuft of broom gives life To plaided warriors armed for strife. That whistle garrisoned the glen At once with full five hundred men. THE TEOSSACHS. RODERICK DHU. 121 Passing Loch Yenachar, we look dov/n upon Coilantogle Ford, where Roderick challenged Fitz- James^ to single combat. " See here, all vantageless I stand, Armed like thyself with single brand ; For this is Coilantogle Ford, And thou must keep thee with thy sword." Both were brave warriors. The struggle was severe. Blood flowed freely. Gael and Saxon, never fought before, or since, more gallantly, — if the testimony of Sir Walter is to be credited. " Like adder darting from his coil, Like wolf that dashes througli the toil, Like mountain-cat who guards her young. Full at Fitz- James's throat he sprung, Keceived, but reck'd not of a wound, . And locked his arms his foeman round. They tug, they strain ! — down, down they go. The Gael above, Fitz-James below ! The chieftain's gripe his throat compressed. His knee was planted in his breast ; His clotted locks he backward threw, Across his brow his hand he drew. From blood and mist to clear his sight, Then gleam'd aloft his dagger bright !" From Callandar to Stirling, Ave go by rail. The scenery along the Teith, and at Doune, and Dunblane, is both picturesque and beautiful. 122 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Stirling is famous for its castle, its church, and the bloody battle fought in the immediate vicinity. A narrow and winding street, leads to the Francis- can Church, erected by James IV. in 1494. In the choir, James VI. was crowned, on which occa- sion John Knox preached the coronation sermon. Ebenezer Erskine, the founder of the ^' Secession Church of Scotland/' was one of its ministers. Here we find a copy of the ^^ breeches'' bible, of 1585. Genesis iii. 7 reads : " And they sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves breeches." Some historic mansions are pointed out, by a Scottish guide, 84 years of age. Argyle Lodge, where Prince Charles was entertained by the Mar- quis, is the most conspicuous. Passing through a narrow entrance, we reach the Palace and Castle ; sit in the black oak chair used by James I. and VL, and rest our note-book on the black oak table, the first used by Knox, at the communion service. The Castle is built upon a green trap rock, 3 10 feet above the level of the plain. And the view from these lofty battlements, is beautiful and grand. Beneath us are the green fields, where the tournament was held ; and from this spot, — ^' The Ladies' Look-out,'' — proud matrons looked down upon the friendly contests of rival Scottish chiefs. Here, Queen Mary stood, 300 years ago, when STIRLINQ CASTLE. "The castle gates were open flung, The quivering draw-bridge rocked and rung, And echoed loud the flinty street Beneath the coursers' clattering feet, As slowly down the deep descent Fair Scotland's King and nobles went. Now in the Castle-park, drew out Their chequered bands, the joyous rout, There morricers, with bell at heel. And blade in hand, their mazes wheel. Their bugles challenge all that will, In archery to prove their skill. Now clear the ring ! for, hand to hand, The manly wrestlers take their stand. The vale with loud applauses rang, The Ladies' Eock sent back the clang." Yonder, crowning a cliff nearly 600 feet higl], stands Wallace's monument. The tower is 220 feet high, and surmounted by an open crown. This site w^as well chosen, being in the vicinity of Stirling Bridge, the scene of Wallace's first victory over the English, in 1297. The river Forth, fringed with poplar, ash, and willow, and winding through green meadows, and fields of ripening grain, forms thirteen beautiful curves, as it rolls past Stirling Castle! Then, the Vale of Menteith on the west, the Campsie on the south, the Ochil Hills on the north, and Bannockburn — memorable as the scene of a bloody battle fought in 1314, by Edward II. of England and Robert 124 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. the Bruce of Scotland — all may be seen from these Castle walls. The cemetery, adjoining the Castle, has some monuments worthy of notice. Here is a prize monument by Ritchie, erected to the memory of ^^ Margaret Wilson, virgin martyr of the wave." '^ She was bound to a stake, within flood mark of the Solway tide, and died a martyr's death, on May 11th, 1685." The inscription on the monu- ment, to this true blue Presbyterian maiden, reads thus :— "Love many waters cannot quench, God saves His chaste impearled ones in covenant true. O Scotia's Daughters, earnest scan the page, And prize this fiower of Grace, blood bought for you." " Psalm ix. 9." Here is a pyramidal monument, to the heroic " Covenanters." On the sides, the " Crown of Life," the '' Star of Light," and the open Bible, are beautifully chiseled. How the blood warms, while we walk through this city of the dead, and gaze upon the graves of our ancestors ! How fearless of danger; how ready to die in defence of truth, were those heroes of the '^ Cove- nant"! A quaint inscription this, upon the tombstone of A. Meffin, Chief Constable of Stirlingshire: — BANNOCK-BURN. MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. 125 " Our life is but a winter day, Some only breakfast and away, Others to dinner stay, and are well fed, The oldest man but sups and goes to bed, Large is his debt, that lingers out the day, He that goes soonest, has the least to pay." From Stirling we proceed to Liolithgow, by way of Bannockburn, and visit the palace famous as the residence of the Stuart kings, and the birth- place of the beautiful Queen of Scots. The'ruins of the palace, stand upon the margin of a crescent shaped lake, and command a charming view of the surrounding country. We w^ander through the deserted halls, now the home of the w^ild birds ; and are startled, as out from the ivy- clad, crumbling w^alls, sw^eeps the black-winged, screaming hawk, or flies the afiTrighted swallow. Here is the dining-hall, 98 feet long, 33 broad, and 38 high. And this is the room that wit- nessed the birth of Queen Mary, in 1542; and yonder the apartment sacred to the confessional. It w-as from this room, in which w^e now stand, that James escaped — by an opening in the floor — when the nobles came to assassinate him. Some of the tender-hearted ladies covered the subterranean passage with a spinning wheel, and thus aided their royal master in his untimely flight. Every apart- ment, in this once royal palace, has a history. 126 V\^ANDERINGS IN EUROPE. And could these crumbling walls speak, what a tale would they unfold ! From Linlithgow to Edinburgh: the route lies through well-cultivated farms. Sturdy w^omen toil in the fields^ hoeing the potatoes. The houses are built of stone, and the roofs are slated, or tiled. These red-roofed houses, shine quite conspicuously through the green trees, by which they are shaded and surrounded. Edinburgh is, unquestionably, a beautiful city. It is built upon a number of hills; and the relative position of the structures, and the varyiiAg style of architecture, present a scene exceedingly pictur- esque. The city is divided into two parts, the old and the new. The old is separated from the new, by a wide valley, beautified with flower gardens, and spanned by two bridges. A mound, also, 800 feet long, 300 feet wide, and nearly 100 feet high, serves the purpose of a bridge, in uniting the old town and the new. In the '^ new ^' section, the streets are wide, and the edifices, many of them, costly and magnificent. In the aristocratic quar- ter, there are a number of handsome terraces, crescents, and squares, ornamented by stately trees, and sparkling lawns. Over the valley, in the *^ old " town, the houses, unlike in structure, and unequal in height, stand along the sloping hill- sides, or crown the summits, in the most charming EDINBURGH SCOTCHMAN'S DESCRIPTION. 127 irregularity. Some of these edifices, climb to a height of eight or ten stories ! Here, indeed, we behold '^ castles in the air.^' The scene after dark, is exceedingly brilliant. The inequalities of the surface, render visible the thousands of flickering lights, that in wavy lines span the valleys, climb the acclivities, and encircle the summits. But a stranger is unequal to the task, of giving a graphic description of this modern Athens. We will therefore call upon a local writer, to describe one or two interesting localities. To the clear head of a Scotchman, he adds a thorough knowledge of geology, and a loving appreciation of the beau- ful and picturesque. " Arthur^s Seat culminates in a point, lifts a truncated, conical summit to an altitude of 822 feet, southeast ; descends rollingly to the east and northeast, projects an abrupt shoul- der to the south ; breaks down precipitously to the west ; presents to the south and west an undulating outline, similar to that of the sculptured figure of a lion Gouchant, and contains indications of successive outbursts of igneous rock.'^ In the following language, he describes the beauty of Salisbury Crag. " Salisbury Crag ascends in regular gradient, over 700 yards ; makes a semicircular sweep of three quarters of a mile, with convexity to the 128 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. west ; breaks perpendicularly down round the face of that sweep, in naked, rugged, greenstone crag, 60 feet ; is girt round the foot of its entire sweep of crag by a broad path ; then descends in a talus partly detrited, but mostly verdant, — and all so smooth, so rapid, so regularly declivitous as to be transversable only by an adventurous and sure- footed pedestrian." That this is an excellent place to study geology, may readily be inferred, when we are informed ^' that the locality must have acquired its contour from a stupendous series of shocks, upheavals, and surging denudations : that it contains remarkable masses of igneous and stratified rocks, in varieties, compositions, dips, and mutual relations illustrative of many of the most striking changes which have occurred in the crust of the earth ; it gives charm- ing lessons, in much of the departments of volcanic action, oversurging sea, fossiliferous deposit, and mineral distribution ; and presents in the logical inferences of a geologist, and in the enlightened imagination of any ordinary intelligent thinker, a long diversified bygone blaze of wonders.'^ Now, to our mind, the character of the place, accounts for the genius of the people. Up to this very moment, we have found it difficult to under- stand, why the inhabitants of Edinburgh, were, mentally and morally, so superior to their neigh- EDINBURGH. MONUMENTS. MUSEUMS. 129 bors. But this writer has shed a ^' blaze " of lio;ht upon the subject. How could men, born upon these marvelous crags, and encircled by, and breathing such an atmosphere, fail to be pure in thought, and clear in conception ? There are a number of splendid monuments, erected in different parts of the city. Nelson's crowns Calton Hill ; and close beside it, stand monuments to the memory of Dugald Stewart, the mental philosopher, and Professor Playfair, the mathematician. On Prince's Street — the "Broad- way" of Edinburgh — Scott's monument is quite conspicuous. The Poet w^as born in Edinburgh, August, 1771, and died at Abbottsford, Septem- ber, 1832. This monument was erected in 1844; is two hundred feet high ; and cost seventy-five thousand dollars. A bronze statue of Professor Wilson — Christopher Korth — adorns one of the beautiful West Prince's Street gardens. On Prince's Street, stands the Antiquarian Museum, an institution well worth visiting. Here, we find stone implements used by the Celts and Picts ; swords, daggers and axe-heads in bronze ; curiously sculptured urns ; and many beautiful ornaments in silver and gold. And here is a silver tea-spoon, used by Prince Charles Edward, at Holy rood Palace ; the sea- chest, and drinking cup, belonging to Alexander 6 130 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Selkirk, when he sojourned on the Island of Juan Fernandez ; and a brass collar, on which the fol- lowing words are engraved: — ^'Alex^ Steuart found guilty of death for theft at Perth the 5th of December 1701 and gifted by the Justiciars as a perpetual servant to Sir Jo. Araskin of Alva." If all thieves of the present day were thus neck- laced, and compelled to work without wages, how quickly the price of brass w^ould rise, and that of labor fall ! And this is John Knox's pulpit from St. Giles. And there is the '^ Maiden," or Scotch guillotine, used in the beheading of the Earl of Argyle, and still stained w^ith blood ! Here are the thumbikins, and other instruments of torture used against the Covenanters. And yonder, is Jennie Geddes' stool, — the very one — which that sinewy and orthodox lady hurled at the Dean of St. Giles, on the 23rd of July 1637. This gentle- man had just commenced reading the service, when Jennie hurled the stool at his head, accompanied with the indignant outburst, "Villain ! dost thou say mass at my lug ?" Above us, is one of the blue banners of the " Covenant." This was borne by the Covenanters, at the battle of Bothwell Bridge. And here too, is the '^ Solemn League and Covenant," signed by Archbishop Leighton. There are several " Leao-ues : " and the sig^natures to some of these COVENANTS. HOLYROOD. QUEEN MARY. 131 " solemn " documents, are written in blood ! And many of those were penned by Christian women, who were willing to die for the "faith, once de- livered unto the Saints/' We will now walk through Canon Gate and High Street, from Holyrood Abbey to the Castle. This palace was once the seat of Scottish royalty ; and in the Chapel Royal — a fragment of the ancient Abbey— are buried, many of the kings and queens of Scotland. The rooms oc- cupied by Queen Mary, are the chief attraction, to all tourists. Our guide points out the dressing- rooms, the private supping-room, the audience- room, and the sleeping-room. Here stands, with fragments of the blankets, Queen Mary's bed. The decayed hangings, are of crimson damask, with green silk fringes, and tassels. The Queen's work-box, and the needlework — worked by her own fair hands, and representing Jacob's Dream are upon the table, — just as she left them ! The Picture Room is 150 feet long, 27 feet wide, and 20 feet high. It was used by Prince Charles as a banquetting hall, and is now used for the election of Scottish Peers, and for the annual levees, of the Commissioners to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. Queen Victoria, and the royal family, occupy the royal private apartments in Holyrood Palace, during their visits to Edinburgh. 132 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. On our right as we march up the Hill, is the Canongate Church. Here, Adam Smith, author of '' The Wealth of Nations/' Dugald Stewart, and Ferguson the poet, are buried. And this is John Knox's house. In this quaint, many-cornered old building, the fearless reformer resided, from 1560, until his death in 1572. The house consists of three rooms, — sitting-room, bed- room, and study. It is by no means attractive, internally or externally ; and yet, how many pil- grims coming from afar, wend their way to old High Street, to gaze upon the edifice, once ten- anted by this heroic man ! A little further along is the old Parliament House, now occupied by the Supreme Court. It was erected between 1632, and 1640. The great hall is 122 feet long, 49 feet wide, and has a lofty roof of carved oak. The walls are decorated with portraits of Lords Brougham, Cockburn, Mans- field, and other distinguished lawyers. Here, the attorneys and counsellors promenade, when off duty ; and here they consult with clients, and ban- ter each other upon the losing or winning of suits. In the adjoining rooms, are seated the clear- headed ^'Lords'' of Justice, clothed in purple and scarlet, and crowned with curiously woven wigs ; while in their august presence, the dark-robed lawyers dissect, analyze, unravel, and make lumi- -^«*.ffi! 'An St. Giles, Edinburgh. SCOTCH LAWYERS. ST. GILES. 133 nous, that which would puzzle even a Philadelphia brother — in the law. We highly enjoy an hour in the court rooms, listening to the keen logic, and fluent speech, of these Edinburgh advocates. And here is old St. Giles, — the church of the Patron Saint, and memorable as the place, where October 13th, 1643, the Solemn League was signed. It is 206 feet in length, and from 76 to 130 feet in breadth. In the days when Eome was in power, it had forty altars, and v^ns served by seventy priests. The building is now divided into three parochial places of worship. Here, Queen Mary worshipped, and John Knox preached; here, Jennie Geddes hurled the stool at the Dean's head, and the Solemn League and Covenant was sworn to ; and here also, the Cove- nanters were imprisoned! The old female guide has all the historic facts at her finger's end. She is enthusiastic, eloquent; and many of her state- ments are quite interesting. Pointing to a certain corner of the building, she informs us that " In yonder corner the queen did sit ; above, at the joining of the arches is a wreath beautifully carved, having four M's. These four M's repre- sent her four maids of honor, viz. : Mary Beaton, Mary Seaton, Mary Fleming, and Mary Kir Mackle." 134 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Climbing the Hill, we reach the famous old Castle. It is built upon a precipitous rock, 383 feet above the level of the sea. The Castle covers an area of 9J acres, and the outlook, from the battlements, is magnificent. Of the numerous apartments, the " Crown " room is the most interesting. Here, the crown jewels are carefully guarded. The "Regalia," consist of a golden crown, — sparkling with gems, and surmounted by a cross ; a Sceptre, — a slender silver rod, thirty-nine inches in length, and beauti- fully ornamented ; and the Sword of state,— some five feet long, — the gift of Pope Julius II. to James IV. The history of these symbols of sovereignty, during the centuries of internal and external strife, preceding the Union with England, is exceedingly romantic. And it is stipulated in the Treaty of Union, that they "shall remain in all coming time" in Scotland. The University of Edinburgh is visited, by in- vitation of Professor Calderwood, — successor of Sir Wm. Hamilton in the chair of Metaphysics. The University dates from 1582. The buildings form a hollow parallelogram, extending 255 feet from north to south, and 358 feet from east to west. The library hall is 198 long, and 50 feet wide, and is ornamented with busts of Sir UNIVERSITY, covenanters' MONUMENTS. 135 Wm. Hamilton, Dugald Stewart, Professor Play- fair, and other distinguished scholars. It has upon its shelves, 250,000 volumes, arranged in the most convenient, and admirable manner. In the class rooms, the benches and the black-boards are not a whit more intelligent-looking, than those used in the most unhistoric, and unpretending, of American Colleges ! A short distance from the University buildings, we find the old Greyfriars Chureh, surrounded by an ancient Church-yard. In this cemetery, some notable Scotsmen are buried. Here are the tombs of George Buchanan, Principal Robertson, Dr. Hugh Blair, Dr. McCrie, Colin Maclaurin, and Ramsay, the poet. A monument of Peter Head granite, marks the poet's resting-place ; and the following lines form the epitaph : — "Tho' here you're buried worthy Allan We'll ne'er forget you canly callan, For while your soul lives in the sky, Your Gentle Shepherd ne'er can die." But by far the most interesting monument, is that erected to the memory of the Covenanters. The inscription, both in prose and poetry, is quite in- structive, and we copy it. " From May 27, '61 that the most noble Mar- quis of Argyle was beheaded, to 17 February '88, that Mr James Renwick suffered, were one wav 136 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. and another murdered, and destroyed, for the same cause about 18,000 ; of whom at Edinburgh were executed about 100 noblemen, gentlemen, minis- ters, and others, noble martyrs for Jesus Christ. The most of them lie here.'^ "Halt, passenger, take heed what you do see, This tomb doth shew for what some men would die, Here lies the dust of those who stood, 'Gainst perjury resisting unto blood ; Adhering to the Covenants and the laws Establishing the same ; which was the cause Their lives were sacrific'd unto the lust Of Prelatists abjured. Though here their dust Lies mixed with murderers, and other crew Whom justice justly did to death pursue ; But as for them, no cause was to be found Worthy of death ; but only they were found Constant and steadfast, zealous witnessing For the Prerogatives of Christ their King. Which truths were sealed with famous Guthrie's head, And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood, They did endure the wrath of enemies, Reproaches, torments, deaths and injuries. But yet they're those from whom such troubles came, And now triumph in glory with the Lamb." In this city, we find the finest specimens of the Scotchman. At every turn, on the street, in bank, and store, you meet with the genuine Scot, — pure and unalloyed. In looks, dialect, and dress, the Edinburgh Scotchman exhibits all the na- tional peculiarities. How clearly, shrewdness, fore- EDINBURGH. THE TYPICAL SCOT. 137 thought, and philosophic reflectiveness, are mirrored in that somewhat rugged countenance ! Even the Scotch beggar, is a peculiar individual — His strat- egy is masterly ; and if he fails to capture a six- pence or a shilling, he does not lose his equanimity, but rather reflects upon the best method of im- jjroving his tactics. The city has a population of 200,000, is beauti- ful for situation ; and the people are distinguished for intelligence, refinement, and culture. Standing upon one of those picturesque eleva- tions, for which the city is so famous, and looking down upon this Scottish Metropolis, what memo- ries of men, and events, crowd upon the mind ! Here, Knox, Chalmers, and Guthrie, preached ; and Hamilton, Stewart, and Playfair taught; here Jeffrey, and Wilson, wrote ; and Scott, and Ram- say, sang. And here, the solemn Covenant was signed ; and in these graveyards, the Covenanters sleep ! Is it surprising, that the Scotch should love this city on the hills? Is it to be wondered at, that Scott should write of it, — ''The wandering eye could o'er it go, And mark the distant city glow ; With gloomy splendor red ; For on the smoke- wreaths huge and slow, That round her sable turrets flow. The morning beams were shed 5 And tinged them with a lustre proud, 6* 138 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Like that which streaks a thunder cloud, Such dusky grandeur clothed the height, Where the huge castle holds its state. And all the steep slope down, "Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky Piled deep and massy, close and high Mine own romantic town !" Bidding farewell to Edinburgh, we take the train for Melrose Abbey. The distance is 37 miles. This famous Abbey, was founded by David I. early in the twelfth century, and was rebuilt during the reign of Robert the Bruce. In the choir, on the site of the high altar, the heart of King Robert, the Bruce, is interred. The doorways and arches are richly ornamented. " The keystone that locks each ribbed aisle Is a fleur-de-lis or a quatrefeuille ; The corbels are carved grotesque and grim. And the pillars with cluster'd shafts so trim, With base and with capital flourish' d around, Seem bundles of lances which garlands have bound." There are several beautiful windows. The tracery in stone, is the finest we have yet seen ; and, excels that of any other Scottish ruin, except that of Roslin Chapel. '' Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand In many a freaking knot had twined ; Then framed a spell when the work was done. And changed the willow wreaths to stone." We would love to linger here till moonlight, if MELEOSE ABBEY. ABBOTTSFORD. 139 other scenes did not extend a pressing invitation to visit them. Sir Walter Scott informs us, in the ^' Lay of the Last Minstrel/' that the moon- light scene is the loveliest. *' If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright, Go visit it by the pale moonlight ; For the gay beams of lightsome day Gild, but to flout, the ruins gray. When the broken arches are black in night, And each shafted oriel glimmers white ; When the cold light's uncertain shower Streams on the ruined central tower ; When buttress and buttress alternately, Seem framed of ebon and ivory; Then go — but go alone the while — Then view St. David's ruined pile ; And, home returning, soothly swear. Was never scene so sad and fair ! " Three miles westward — from Melrose — is Ab- bottsford, — the home of Sir Walter Scott. We hire a carriage, and have a pleasant drive over a good road, through a charming country, to this beautiful mansion on the banks of the Tweed. The entrance is by a porchway, adorned with pe- trified stags' horns. The hall is pannelled with finely carved oak ; the floor paved with black and white marble ; and the walls covered with ancient armor. The library contains 20,000 volumes, — each volume being selected by Sir Walter. The arm- 140 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. chair he occupied during his literary labors, and the large table, stand in the centre of the room, and from their size and position, immediately at- tract the visitor's attention. The furniture in the various apartments, is of the finest material, and most curious workmanship. The numerous gifts bestowed by admiring friends, constitute quite a little museum. Some of these articles are of great historic, and intrinsic value. Here is a little box, once the property of Mary Queen of Scots ; and a curiously shaped candle- stick, belonging to The Bruce. Here is the sword of Montrose, Rob Eoy's gun, and a brandy flask, once carried by James VI. The walls of the various apartments, are de- corated with numerous pictures. Among these, one is particularly conspicuous, — representing the head of Queen Mary, in a charger, the day after her execution. Here is a picture of Claver house, — the terror of the Covenanters ; and yonder hangs a portrait of Scotf s grandfather, — a long-bearded and venerable-looking patriarch. But the Bard of the North is silent ! The harp that thrilled the Scottish heart, is heard no more on the banks of the Tweed ! " Harp of the North ! that mouldering long hast hung On the witch-elm that shades Saint Fillan's spring, And down the fitful breeze thy numbers flung, DRYBURG ABBEY. SCOTT's TOMB. 141 Till envious ivy did around thee cling, Muffling with verdant ringlet every string — Oh minstrel Harp ! still must thine accents sleep ? Mid rustling leaves and fountains murmuring ; Still must thy sweeter sounds their silence keep, Nor bid a warrior smile, nor teach a maid to weep?" Sir Walter seized this harp, and those trembling strings, responsive to his magic touch, swayed Scottish hearts, and made them '' higher throb.'^ But to the harp, and to the Tweed, he bade a long, and sad, farewell. And on the 21st Septem- ber, 1832, he might have addressed both, in the tender language of an old Welch Bard : — " Then adieu, Silver Trivi ! I quit thy lov'd scene. To join the dim choir of the bards that have been ; And thou whose faint warblings my weakness can tell, Farewell, my lov'd Harp ! my last treasure, farewell ! " He rests quietly, in the beautiful Abbey of Dry- burg, — a few miles distant. This abbey was founded in the 12th century, during the reign of David I. The nave of the church is 190 feet long, and 75 feet broad. The great dining-room of the monks, was 100 feet long, 30 feet broad, and 60 feet high. The west end gable of this refectory, is trian- gular, has a beautiful starlike w^indow, and is overgrown with ivy. Near the entrance door, a 142 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. yew-tree, — said to be 700 years old — generously shades the inquisitive tourist. How many dark- robed mourners, have walked in the shadow of this still stately tree ! To how many soft whisperings of love, has it listened, when the moonbeams danced over the silvery surface of the murmuring Tweed! Over how many joyous bridal processions, has it waved, when the old Abbey bell summoned lovers to the altar, there to pledge their mutual, and per- petual love ! St. Mary's Aisle, the most beautiful part of the ruin, contains the tomb of the poet. A veiiy plain monument of Peter-Head granite, marks the resting place of the illustrious dead. Here, within the old Abbey grounds, is a house, once occupied by Ebenezer, and Ralph Erskine, — the eminent Scottish divines ; and yonder, crown- ing the rocky summit, is a rude statue of the patriot Bruce. The country surrounding the Abbey is beautiful. The trees are tall ; the meadows green ; and the air is sweet with the mingled fragrance of many flowers. But the sighing of the winds, and the sobbing of the waters, give voice to nature's sadness, over the ruin time has wrought. How quiet to-day along the borders ! Not the sound of a bugle can be heard ; not the flash of a THE TWEED. BORDER STRIFE. 143 sabre can be seen ! The steel-clad warriors, and the clang of arms, have passed away ; and bards shall sing no more, — of border strife. Crossing the Tweed, we bid farewell to Scotland ; — Sweet Teviot ! on thy silver tide The glaring bale-fires blaze no more ; No longer steel-clad warriors ride Along thy wild and willowed shore. Where'er thou wind'st by dale or hill, All, all is peaceful, all is still, As if thy waves, since Time was born. Since first they rolled upon the Tweed, Had only heard the shepherd's reed, Nor started at the bugle-horn." CHAPTER VII. ENGLAND. THE CHEVIOT HILLS. YORK MINSTER. Taking the train, at a station a few miles dis- tant from Dryburgh, we cross the border, and roll over the Cheviot Hills. The scene, along these hills, is desolate. Here and there a shepherd's cot may be seen, surrounded by flocks of sheep, and herds of hornless cattle. Our train thunders past Carlisle, and down through northern England, to Leeds and York. The city of York, is of great antiquity, and its magnificent Cathedral attracts hither, annually, thousands of tourists. The building of the city, is ascribed to Agricola,in the year 50. Here also the Emperor Severus died, about the year 211. At a short distance from the city, the funeral pile was kindled by the Emperor's sons, while the whole army in solemn procession, marched thrice around the burning body. The ashes of the cremated mon- arch were deposited in an urn, and sent to Rome. In York also, Constantius, the father of Constan- 144 YORK MIKSTER. ROMAN EMPERORS. 145 tine the Great, died in 306, and some writers con- tend that the latter, — the first Christian Emperor, — was born in York. In the neighborhood of York, many battles were fought between the Scots and Picts, and the ancient Britons. It was in the vi- cinity of York, that the Saxons, after expelling the Picts and Scots, first turned their arms against the Britons, who had invited them to the Island. But to view the Minster, or Cathedral, is the ob- ject of our visit. The present building, stands upon the site of an ancient heathen temple. The erec- tion of the south transept was commenced in the year 1220. The edifice as it now appears, was com2)leted about the year 1400. The architecture is gothic, of which there are five different styles exhibited, in various parts of the structure. This stately edifice is 524 feet long, and 221 feet broad. The Great Tower is 214 feet high. The ornamentation in some parts of the building is very beautiful. The slender pillars, pointed arches, ornamented capitals, and magnificent stained glass windows, arrest the eye at every step. The east window is 75 feet high, and 32 feet broad, and this vast illuminated space is occu- pied with representations of the leading events in Bible history. The great clock bell cost $10,000 and weighs 12| tons. There are a num- ber of handsome monuments in the aisles, and in 146 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. the Lady Chapel. For 200 years, the Minster has been celebrated for its music. The organ is played as we wander through the building, and the crowd of tourists seem startled, as if expecting to see the dead arise, and come forth. Groups of men and women stand in the nave, transepts, aisles, under arches 100 feet high, and listen with the most marked attention, and manifest feelings of wonder and delight. And why should they not? The scene, and the sounds, are they not in- spiring? Tliis lofty and magnificent building, with its forest of pillars, its archways 100 feet high, its gorgeously decorated windows, and the "pealing organ" filling the vast edifice with music, melodious and inspiring, does, we are free to admit, affect us strangely. We have never seen such a building, and we have never ^heard such music. A desire long cherished is to-day gratified. But this pealing organ, is inviting us to morning service. We enter the choir, and occupy a"-^" stall." The seat is comfortable, and the reflection that it may, on former occasions, have been occupied by some royal duke, or noble earl, adds much to the pleasure of our visit. It is 10 o'clock, and the clergy, in slow^ and solemn procession, are entering the choir. At these week-day services the attendance is small, and to day, it is composed chiefly of tourists. The SHEFFIELD. BIRMINGHAM. 147 officiating clergymen, are tidily attired, in the cus- tomary ecclesiastical garments. The litany is chanted, and the Scriptures read. The Bible, rests upon the expanded wings of a brazen eagle, which serves the purpose of a desk. There are so many objects novel and strange, that the majority of the audience, seem more interested in the carvings and paintings, than in the readings or responses. But the clergy proceed with as much serious- ness, and solemnity, as if thousands were listen- ing and responding. Both the service, and the surroundings, impress us. It is our first " Cathe- dral service/' and we enjoy it. After purchasing a photographic picture of the " Minster," we resume our journey. The route lies through the centre of old England. Our train whirls along past Sheffield, and Chesterfield. We linger a season in Birmingham. The whole city is enveloped in smoke. There are forests of tall chimneys, emitting smoke of all colors. Furnaces are blazing for miles in every direction. Trains thunder along with the greatest rapidity. We are informed by an Englishman, that the number of trains arriving at, and departing from, the Birmingham station exceeds that of any other Rail Road station in England. Trains pass the East station at the average rate of one every minute! Three trains are no vv moving past this .> 148 WANDERINGS IN EUHOPE. busy station ; and the clanging of bells, screaming ofwhistleSj and puffing of engines, fill the air with sounds most discordant. The traffic, through this smoking and blazing city, is enormous. But the work goes on, also, underground. The city is undermined. The ground, for miles, trembles as heavily laden trains go thundering over it. And to avoid possible, and fatal accident, the building of a new rail-road is seriously contemplated. The whole country from Birmingham to Wol- verhampton, — a distance of ten miles, — is covered wdth smoke and flames. Shafts, leading to deep mines, are sunk in every direction. Blazing fur- naces, in brilliant succession, illumine the country, by day and by night. Here, the sons of Vulcan toil, " wrapped in drifts of lurid smoke.'' The manufacturing cities of England, have each their specialty : — viz., Leeds manufactures, cheap cloth ; Sheffield, steel ; Birmingham, iron ; Wol- verhampton, japanned goods ; Manchester, dry goods; and London, — everything. Leaving this noisy bustling city, we visit .Rugby. And what cultivated fields, rich pasturage, and charming cottages, lie along the route ! How lovely, is this part of old England ! Rugby, is celebrated for its school. Clean winding streets, lead us, between rows of neat two, and three story brick buildings, along the hillside, to the Parish Church. RUGBY. LICENSED TO KEEP DOGS. 149 Inside the gate, is a beautiful fountain, with an image of the Saviour pointing at the words, *' If any man thirst, let him come unto me and drink." The notices posted at the door of this venerable edifice, are not strictly ecclesiastical. Here, are the names of persons licensed to keep dogs ! Now, there are two kinds of dogs : viz., those that go upon four legs, and those that walk upon two. And of those dogs that walk upon two legs, there are several species,— such as the "sly dogs," and, the " lazy dogs." Which of these, the pious peo- ple of Rugby are "licensed" to keep, is not spe- cifically stated. And here also, are the names of all the qualified voters, in the town, or parish of Rugby ! This looks very much like the union of church, and state. Whether the elections are held in the church building, and the parson is appointed judge, we are not informed. Rugby Academy, crowns the eminence upon which the town is built. It is a brick edifice, flanked with towers, that give it the appearance of a castle. Some parts of the building are two, and some three, stories high. The chapel is a very large structure, built of red and white brick. Stately trees shade the walks, that lead through the closely shaven, and sparkling lawns. Here indeed, are " goodliest trees, planted with walks 150 WANDERIiN-GS IN EUROPE. and bowers." But we see no form, we hear no footstep. All is silent, save the rooks. These black-winged noisy birds, are cawing in the trees, and flying over the grounds, as if they were the only, and legitimate, occupants of these lawns and bowers. Remembering that '^ Tom Brown'' went from Rugby to Oxford, we imitate his example, and arrive in the " University town," early in the afternoon. What fields, and flocks, are there in the vicinity of Oxford ! Such sheep and oxen, and such sturdy men and women, we have not seen elsewhere in England. It is now ^' vacation,'^ and the University is closed. Several hours are spent in wandering through the " quadrangles/' that constitute the various college buildings. What venerable struc- tures, and velvety lawns, and giant oaks ! Here is Baliol College, or quadrangle; and this the spot where Thomas Cranmer, the first Protestant archbishop of Canterbury, died at the stake, on the 21st day of March, 1 556 ! Through the kindness of a polite and gentle- manly old janitor, we are admitted to the grand dining hall, of Christ Church College. It is the largest in the University. The hall is 115 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 50 feet high. Portraits of Queen Elizabeth, and Cardinal Wolsey, decorate OXFORD UNIVERSITY. PUSEY. 151 the wall, at the upper end of the room. The in- telligent janitor assures us, that those distinguished personages were '^patrons'' of the institution. Wolsey, was educated at Magdalen College, Oxford, — graduating in 1486, at fifteen years of age. In the year 1525, he founded "Cardinal College,'^ Oxford. This College was subsequently altered by Henry YIIL, and called the ** Col- lege of King Henry VIII.^' It is now called ^' Christ Church College." In addition to the effigies of those distinguished "patrons," there are portraits of sixty eminent men, graduates of this College; and among these w^e recognize that of John Locke. The founding of the University of Oxford, is traced back to Alfred, in the year 880. What multitudes of students have \valked these streets, during the past thousand years! In 1231, there were thirty thousand students in attendance ! There are some eminent scholars connected with the University at the present time ; — and among them, Max Mliller, the linguist, and our old friend Professor Liddell, whose Greek lexicon, was a con- stant college comjjanion while perusing the ancient Classic w^orthics. And here, the scholarly, and so-called heretical Pusey, flourishes, in the 74th year of his age, after having written and pub- lished, nearly "sixty separate productions!" 152 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The University of Cambridge, was founded in the year 1229. It is 77 miles distant from Ox- ford, and while not quite as ancient an institution as its rival, is still worthy of a visit. The town of Cambridge, is by no means as at- tractive in appearance, as the town of Oxford. The streets are paved with large cobble-stones. The houses are built of brick, and the surrounding country is flat and uninteresting. The College buildings are erected in "quad- rangles/^ The " Emmanuel" college buildings, are two stories high ; and the beautiful lawn, is taste- fully ornamented with fragrant and blooming flowers. Some of the college buildings are ivy- covered, and look quite venerable. The library, and the Chapel of King's college, are the most conspicuous, and highly ornamented edifices, that we have seen. Some of these quad- rangles are built fronting upon a public highway ; some stand at a distance from the street ; and many of them are widely separated. A consid- erable portion of the town intervenes, between Emmanuel's college, and King's college. The space covered by these several buildings, with the lawns surrounding, is quite extensive. As we walk through the streets, and gaze upon these gothic structures, and beautiful quadrangles, we think of the noble and gifted men, who were UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE. 153 educated at this University. Among its graduates we find the names of Milton, Dry den, Wordsworth, Bacon, Barrow, Latimer, Coleridge, Paley, Jeremy Taylor, Tillotson, Trench, and Alford. But we must leave for the Metropolis. London is distant from Cambridge just sixty miles. The country is level ; the pasturage and crops excel- lent. Some of the houses are built of brick, and some of stone. Some are thatched, and some are tiled. Yonder is the Metropolis, with its palaces, tem- ples, and towers ! " This city now doth, like a garment wear The beauty of the morning silent, fair, Ships, towers, domes, palaces, and temples lie Open unto the fields and to the sky." The great city is entered, and comfortable ^' lodg- ings " secured. On Cheapside, near St. PauFs, between the Post Office and the Bank, in the very heart of this modern Babel, we are pleasantly lo- cated. London is built, principally, in a valley, sur- rounded by gently rising hills. It is situated upon the river Thames, and by it — rolling east- ward — divided into two unequal parts. The dis- tance from the city, to the sea, is about 50 miles. The city covers an area of 78,000 acres, — equal to 154 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 122 square miles. The population is estimated at four millions. The annual increase, is over 40,- 000. The average density of the population, is 40 persons to an acre. Truly this is " A spacious city, The seat where England from her ancient reign Doth rule the ocean as her own domain." There are over 500,000 houses within the city limits. And the rent paid annually for the use or occupancy of these houses, amounts to $100,000,000 ! The houses are built — largely — -of brick and have a somewhat dingy appearance. There are over 10,000 streets, squares, terraces, and lanes. Many of the streets are wide, and — for a con- siderable distance — straight, but the larger propor- tion are narrow, and crooked. They are well paved, and considering the enormous traffic, quite clean. These 6,600 miles of streets, are illumined every night by 360,000 gas lights, — burning 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas, every twenty-four hours. Every day 44,000,000 gallons of water flow into London ; and every day 9,000,000 cubic feet of refuse matter flows out of London. For the accommodation of its millions, thirteen railroads, over and under ground, enter the city ; S3ores of LONDON. FOOD. TRADESMEN. 155 steamboats ply upon the Thames, stopping at twenty different landings ; and 8,000 public cabs, and 1,500 omnibusses, roll through the streets. And is it any wonder that the city is occasionally smoky, when 5,000,000 tons of coal are annually consumed ? And what quantities of food, and drink, are annually swallowed by these millions of hungry and thirsty metropolitans ! 1,600,000 quarters of wheat; 1,700,000 sheep; 4,000,000 head of game; 3,000,000 salmon; 300,000 bullocks; 35,000 pigs; 28^000 calves, with large quantities of other "fish, flesh, and fowl,^^ are washed down by 65,000 pipes of wine, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 43,000,000 gal- lons of porter and ale ! The milk of 13,000 cow^s, is required to keep the "cream jugs '^ full. And what a grand army of men and women, is engaged in providing for the bodily comfort, the mental culture, and the religious training of these hosts of Londoners ! Let us marshal them. Here marches 2,500 bakers, followed by 1,700 butchers. Next comes 2,600 tea-dealers, accom- panied by 1,200 coffee-room keepers ; while 1,500 dairy-men tramp close in the rear. The next brigade, is headed by 3,000 tailors ; then follows 3,000 boot and shoe makers ; 1,500 milliners and dressmakers ; and 1,100 linen- drapers. And to settle disputes, here comes 3,000 156 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. attorneys, and 4,000 barristers ; and to keep the physical system in harmony, 2,400 doctors walk in procession. Then follow the teachers in 1,500 private schools, while 2,000 clergymen, represent- ing over 1,000 places of worship, give dignity to this unique, and wonderful parade. But even metropolitans will not live always ; and now, be- hold a gloomy band of 500 undertakers^ whose funereal services are required in the burial of the 75,000 that annually die, ^vithin the city limits. This provisioning, clothing, educating and govern- ing a city of four millions, is a wonderful work. But where shall we go ? There are so many objects claiming attention, that we scarcely know where to begin. London is not only the greatest manufacturing city, but also the greatest com- mercial city, in the world. We will therefore honor the " Docks," by paying them a visit. The chosen route, passes *^ Billingsgate " market. This market is celebrated for the sale of fine fish, and the use of foul language. What rough specimens of Londoners ! What brutal faces, and shameful speech ! And how the '^ King's English,'' is mer- cilessly murdered, even in sight of the Tower ! Of the discussions this morning it may be truth- fully said, — " There, stripped, fair rhetoric languished on the ground, And shameful Billingsgate her robes adorn." LONDON DOCKS. WINE. TOBACCO. 157 Here are St. Katherine Docks, covering a space of 24 acres, and costing over $8,000,000. The ware- houses, in connection with these docks, usually contain some 120,000 tons of merchandize, — prin- cipally from America, and the Mediterranean. We now pass to the London Docks. These docks employ a capital of $20,000,000. Here are ships from every quarter of the globe, manned by seamen of all colors, who chatter up and down the decks, in strange and unknown tongues. Along these wharves lie heaps of hides, and oil cake, casks of cocoa, bags of rice, barrels of tallow, with im- mense quantities of sugar, tea, coffee, drugs, spices, oils, wines, wool and cotton. The Tobacco Dock, has warehouses adjoining, capable of holding 30,000,000 pounds of tobacco, and 9,000,000 gallons of wine and spirits. How closely united do we here find tobacco and whiskey ? Smoking, and drinking, — do they not often walk hand in hand through life ? In connection with this Eastern Dock, is a wine and spirit vault, covering an area of seven acres ! Admission is free, but we have no taste for the beverage. The docks of London, cover an area of 900 acres. The Port of London, extends four miles; is entered by over 40,000 vessels annually ; and the customs collected amount to $55,000,000 a year ! 158 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. " Where has commerce such a mart, — So rich, so thronged, so drained, and so supplied, As London? Opulent, enlarged, and still Increasing London ! " Lloyd's shipping office, is next visited. The scene, in and about the building, is a busy one. Flaming placards on the walls point out the home, colonial, and foreign, departments. Huge books lie upon the desks, and the names of ves- sels arriving at, and departing from, the various ports all over the world, are carefully recorded. Merchants eagerly scan the lists, and hurry off with smiling or frowning faces. A stately Eng- lishman, wearing a scarlet robe, guards the en- trance, and none can enter the room, or examine the books, without his permission. The Thames, is spanned by a number of bridges ; and of some of these, the Londoners are justly proud. Wandering through streets flanked with massive structures, and crowded with hurrying merchants, and thundering vehicles, we arrive at the London Bridge. This bridge is 928 feet long, 54 feet wide, and cost $12,000,000. It is not the longest, nor the widest bridge, — the ^' Waterloo^' being 1380 feet long, and the " Westminster '^ 85 feet wide, — -but the traffic over it is immense. It is estimated that 1000 vehicles, and 10,000 pedestrians, pass over this bridge every hour! BANK OF ENGLAND. CAPITAL. 159 The Bank of England, is famous and worthy of a visit. Passing through Broad and Lombard streets, and looking upon the sitting statue of the philanthropic Peabody, we are face to face with the '^ old lady in Threadneedle street/^ This bank was founded in 1691, by a Scotch- man named Patterson. The business is conducted by a governor, deputy governor, and 24 directors. The capital is over $70,000,000. The par value of the stock is $500, and the market price, §1250. There are 1000 persons employed, and the salaries range from $250 to $6,000 a year. The manage- ment of the National Debt, amounting to $4,000,- 000,000, is intrusted to this Bank. On this " Debt,^^ dividends are paid to the amount of $125,000,000 a year. And the Bank receives an- nually, from the Government, as compensation for its services, $1,000,000. At the entrance door, sits a gorgeously robed Englishman, closely inspecting every visitor. Gen- tlemen, with shining silk hats, dark green coats, crimson colored vests, and stylish knee breeches, walk hither and thither, keeping order in the es- tablishment. "We are conducted through the Bank-note and gold rooms, and the " Consol " de- partment. Here are men shoveling gold, as if it were nothing more than the ''dust of the earth.'' And here are curious machines, capable of weigh- 160 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. ing 33 sovereigns a minute; and also of in- stantly detecting, and rejecting, every light weighted coin ! And yonder is a clock with 16 dials, so arranged, that a "face" may be seen in 16 dif- ferent offices. What crowds of people, and yet what order, in this the greatest banking establish- ment in the world ! The next public building visited is the Post Office. Passing along Cheapside and Newgate streets, we arrive at this building, about four in the afternoon. As business in London is trans- acted between the hours of 10 a. m. and 4 p. M., the scene at the " office/' at the latter hour, is ex- ceedingly lively. Letters, carried by all man- ner of conveyance, are tumbled into the receiving boxes by the thousands. Scores of men and boys, are rushing with full baskets, to the various re- ceptacles. Wagon loads of precious documents, are whirled through the gates, at the utmost speed. Crowds of lazy people, wonderingly — stare at these swift-footed messengers. But the quickness of movement inside, fully equals the rapidity of motion outside. 1,500 clerks are engaged in assorting, and despatching. And the mail matter handled annually at this office, is said to be 12,000,000 book parcels : 80,000,000 newspapers ; and 800,000,000 letters. The Tower of London y is the most celebrated THE TOWER OF LONDON. 161 fortress in Great Britain. It is, or has been, both a citadel, a palace, a prison, an armory, and a treasury. Tradition ascribes its foundation to Csesar. Shakespeare, in King Eichard, speaks thus of this ancient structure : — "Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation? " Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. If I may counsel you, some day or two Your Highness will repose you at the Tower. " Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place,— Did Julius Csesar build that place, my lol-d ? " Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, Which since succeeding ages have re-edified." It is situated on the north bank of the Thames, and the area of the Tower, within the walls, is twelve acres. How many famous men were here imprisoned ! John, King of France ; the Duke of Orleans ; the Duke of Buckingham ; the Duke of Marlborough ; the Earl of Shaftesbury ; Lord Russell ; and Sir Walter Raleigh, had free lodg- ings furnished in these gloomy apartments ! And here Sir Thomas More, Lady Jane Grey (1553), Queen Anne Boleyn (1536), and Queen Katherine Howard (1542), fourth wife of Henry yilL, were beheaded. Lord Lovat, was the last gentlemen left headless on Tower Hill. This oc- curred in 1747. A sturdy old pensioner, dressed in quaint mili- 7* 162 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. tary cosliime, conducts visitors throagh the build- ing. It contains 70^000 stands of arms. It also contains a large collection of ancient armor, and curious weapons used in attack and defense, on the battle-fields of centuries ago. And these are so systematically arranged, in separate apartments, that they not only illustrate the methods of ancient warfare, but also reveal the successive changes effected in the ministry of war^ from the earliest ages until the present time. Here are weapons, taken in the Indian campaigns from the Sikhs, Burmese, and Chinese. And here are equestrian figures, clothed in the armor "fashionable" be- tween the years 1272 and 1688. These mail- sheathed steeds, mounted by steel-clad effigies, so bright and burnished, and in such eager attitude, seem ready to rush forth to battle. We instinc- tively shrink back from that well poised lance, lest haply it should pierce a tourist's panoply, — our linen duster ! Here is a suit of damasked armor, worn by Henry VIII. And yonder an effigy of Queen Elizabeth, arrayed in the armor worn by Her Majesty at Tilbury, in 1588, when she made her memorable speech to the soldiers. The small %rras, are so arranged as to ^' strike the eye,'' harmlessly and agreeably. They form numerous devices. Here is a balustrade of swords, and a floor made of ram-rods. And along the THE TOWEE. CEOWN JEWELS. 163 walls, are representations of stars, and flowers. And above us, suspended from the ceiling, is a shining chandelier, in the construction of which over 3,000 arms have been used, including swords and bayonets ! But we enter the *^ Bloody Tower,^' and climb to the " Jewel House." Here, in a glazed iron cage, in the centre of a well-lighted room, we find the Regalia, and crown jewels of England. This is Victoria's crown — a cap of purple velvet, en- closed by silver hoops, and studded with diamonds. It weighs If lbs., and is valued at |600,000. St. Edward's Staff — of beaten gold — is 4 feet 7 inches 1 ^ng. The Royal Sceptre, is of pure gold, and 2 feet 9 inches in length. The Rod of Equity, — 3 feet 7 inches long — is of gold, and set with dia- monds. In this carefully guarded cage, are also the Royal Spurs, used at the coronation ; the Gold Coronation Spoon, from which oil is poured upon the Sovereign ; and the Baptismal Font — silver gilt — used at the christening of the Royal children. And shining conspicuously amidst these silver, and golden, and jewelled ornaments, is the famous Koh-i-Noor diamond. This diamond belonged to Runjeet Singh, and was captured by the army that conquered the city of Lahore, Northern India. It is of large size, and great brilliancy. The jewels in this '' case," are valued at $15,000,000 ! 164 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The British Museum j is an object of great in- terest, not only to the citizens of London, but to visitors at the British Metropolis. Leaving the Tower, and walking through Lombard St., Cheap- side, under Temple Bar, and along the Strand and Drury Lane, an afternoon is delightfully and profitably spent, in this treasure-house of Science and Art. The building cost over $5,000,000. The cost of buildings and collections, from the founding of the Museum in 1753, until 1872, amounted to over $17,000,000. The buildings are erected in the form of a quadrangle. The reading-room is circular, surmounted by a dome 140 feet in diameter, and 106 feet in height. In this room 300 readers are accommodated with separate desks. The Library of the Museum, contains over 700,000 volumes. On the tables, in the George III. library, are some beautiful specimens of printing, illustrating the progress made in that art, since the days of Guttenbergh, and Faust. There are 30,000 manuscripts in the library ; and some of these date back to the 4th and 5th centuries. The largest collection of Hebrew books in the world, rests on these shelves. The Mazarine Bible, printed by Guttenberg's press at Mainz, in 1455, — and the earliest printed book known, — BRITISH MUSEUM. ROSETTA STONE. 165 is one of the many rare books owned by the Museum. The Sculpture Gallery, is exceedingly interesting. Here, in the Egyptian Saloon, is a colossal head of Rameses II., 9 feet high ; and here is also the celebrated Rosetta stone. It is a piece of black basalt 3 feet long, 2 feet 5 inches broad, and about 12 inches thick. Its tri-lingual inscription, fur- nished a key, by which to unlock the mysteries of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It rests upon a very modest pedestal, in the centre of the room, and yet it has shed more light upon the path of anti- quarian, and historian, than all the giant statues by which it is surrounded. Among the Assyrian Antiquities, stands a monu- ment of Sennacherib, pointing back to 800 B. c. ; and a beautiful obelisk, ascribed to an earlier date. In the Elgin Hall, are some of the finest Greek sculptures. It is supposed that some of these were executed by Phidias. Here are statues that once decorated the Parthenon ; and this the '^ Frieze," of that matchless Temple. How the glory of Greece has departed, when the sculptures that beautified her most splendid edifices, have been removed from her soil, and placed on exhibition in England's metropolis ! The Kensington Museum, is of more recent 166 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. origin^ and to certain classes, much more attrac- tive than the " British." It Avas founded by Prince Albert in 1852 ; and the total outlay, — including the cost of the buildings, — from 1852 until 1872, amounted to $8,000,000. The objects exhibited, consist principally of paintings, sculptures, porcelain, pottery, orna- mented furniture, metal-work, tapestries, em- broideries, &c. There is also a loan exhibition, in connection with the Museum. What a wealth of material is contained in these beautifully deco- rated courts ! Here, painter, and sculptor, artist and artizan, manufacturer and merchant, may find objects worthy of study. This is the musical court. What a number, and what a variety of wind and stringed instru- ments, are here collected ! In looking at these curiously constructed music- making machines, we are inclined to believe that some of them were fashioned by Jubal, and that they travelled to the Museum over Mount Ararat. Here is an old bag-pipe with velvet bags, and ivory keys. And yonder is a finger-organ owned by Luther ; while close beside it is the harpischord played by Handel ! In an adjoining room, is the royal robe of Theodore, King of Abyssinia. It was captured by General Wolsey, on the 8th of April, 1874, at KENSINGTON MUSEUM. KING THEODORE. 167 the taking of Magdala. It is of damask silk, shining with gold. How his sable majesty must have shone in the presence of his dasky warriors, when robed with this glittering garment ! If we are correctly informed, love was the cause of this monarch's downfall. In an unlucky hour, he ^'proposed'' to Victoria; and being cruelly, but most politely rejected, he laid violent hands npon a few wayfaring Englishmen. General Wol- sey, with British battalions, released the prisoners and slew the king. Poor Theodore ! And yet he was not the first man who lost his head,— by " falling in love.'' In the picture gallery, occupying a separate apartment, are the celebrated Cartoons of Ra- phael. These were executed in 1514, at the re- quest of Leo X. They are drawings on card- board, in chalk, tinted with distemper. The sub- jects are scriptural, viz. : Christ's Charge to Peter ; The Death of Ananias ; Peter and John at the beautiful gate; Healing the Lame Man; Paul and Barnabas at Lystra; Elymas the Sorcerer struck Blind; Paul Preaching at Athens; The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. They are owned by the Queen, and loaned by Her Majesty to the Exhibition. They are regarded by competent critics, as "the grandest productions of Christian 168 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. There is one painting in the gallery that attracts universal attention. It is ^' The worship of Bacchus, or the drinking customs of society from the cradle to the grave.^^ The picture is most impressive. In the foreground is a group of bright, innocent, happy children ; in the back- ground, the first social gathering around the wine cup ; the reeling drunkard ; the station house ; the house of correction ; the hospital ; the magda- len house; the work house; and the lunatic asylum ! The Houses of Parliament^ are on the left bank of the '^ silver-streaming Thames." The building covers an area of 8 acres, has 100 staircases, 1100 apartments, and more than two miles of corridors. It is heated by 16 miles of steam pipes; and the gas consumed in lighting it costs annually over $17,000. The River Front, is 900 feet in length ; and the "Victoria Tower" 75 feet square, and 340 feet high. At the east end of the building, the '^ Clock Tower" rises to a height of 320 feet. The " Palace Clock" placed in this Tower, strikes the hours, and chimes the quarters, upon 8 bells ; and shows the time upon four dials, each 30 feet in diameter. The entire cost of erecting these magnificent build- ings, is estimated at $15,000,000. But, for profit and enjoyment, let us inspect this COURTS. THE CHIEF JUSTICE. 169 " New Palace '^ a little more closely. An excel- lent opportunity is afforded, as the Court sits, and Parliament is in session. Adjoining Westminster Hall, are the crowded court rooms. The judges are robed in '^ purple and scarlet," and crowned with curly wigs. Yonder, presiding with great dignity, sits the Lord Chief Justice of England, — ■ Judge Cockburn. But how unmasculine does this distinguished lawyer appear, clothed in his judicial garments ! That full, florid, beardless face, set in a framework of horse hair, with long curly ap- pendages, might be taken, or mistaken, for the amiable countenance of some good-natured, well- preserved, English grandmother. Pardon us, Judge, — but this is the exact impression. In the next room Sir John D. Coleridge pre- sides. In a lively discussion between an inquisi- tive juryman, and a fractious witness, Sir John reveals rare powers of analysis, keen wit, and bril- liant repartee. To reach the House of Commons, we must pass through Westminster Hall. This hall was built in 1399, and is 270 f^et long, 74 feet wide, and 90 feet high. Here Richard II. kept his Christmas, entertain- ing 10,000 guests each day. It was in this magnificent hall, — fitted up as a court, — that Charles I. was tried, and Warren Hastings im- 170 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. peached. Passing from Westminster Hall, we enter St. Stephen's Hall, 95 feet long, 34 feet wide, 56 feet high, and beautifully decorated. On either side are statues of eminent statesmen. Here is the somewhat bulky figure of Fox, and the more slender forms of Pitt, Burke, and Grattan, — each in their characteristic attitudes. And how expres- sive are those marble features ; how eloquent those marble gestures ! We now enter the Octagon Hall, a most ela- borately ornamented room, 70 feet square, and 80 feet high. To our left, is the House of Commons, 62 feet long, 45 broad, and 45 high. Having se- cured a ticket of admission, we take a seat in the visitors' gallery. The House is quite full this afternoon, and the debate in progress. These Commoners, sitting with covered heads, look like a company of Quakers. The only member of this great deliberative body with head uncovered, is the distinguished leader of the Conservatives, — Benjamin Disraeli. Close beside him on the mi- nisterial bench, sit Messrs. Hunt, and Cross. When a strong speech is made by some liberal opponent, these staff officers consult with the chief, and carry out his orders by immediately " moving on the enemy." The subject under discussion, relates to the manufacturing interests of different parts of the kingdom. HOUSE OF COMMONS. HOUSE OF LORDS. 171 Irishmen from the north, and the south, Scotch- men, and Englishmen, present the claims of their respective constituencies. As England and Wales returns 500 members, Ireland 105, and Scotland 53, the Englishmen are in the majority : and when united, can legislate just as they please. In all the turmoil, the " hear," " hear," and the clapping of hands, the Premier sits unmoved. How quiet and indifiPerent, and yet how watchful and wily, is this distinguished Jewish statesman ! Retracing our steps, we enter the House of Lords. This chamber is 97 feet long, 45 wide, 45 high, and most richly and elaborately orna- mented. The wood-carving is exquisite. Yonder is the Throne, — occupied by her Majesty when she visits the House. In the centre of the chamber, is the Woolsack, on which the Lord Chancellor sits. At the east end of the room, a committee of the House of Lords is now in session. Lord Chancellor Cairns is pointed out by an obsequious attendant ; and the noble " Lord " really looks like an ordinary mortal. In passing from the ''Lords," we are ap- proached by a policeman, and politely informed that the '^ Duke " is in an adjoining room. And without further ceremony, we are ushered into the committee-room, and into the presence of His Eoyal Highness the Duke of Cambridge, cousin 172 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. of the Queen, and commander-in-chief of the British army. The royal warrior, is surrounded by a joint committee of the Lords and Commons and is being closely interrogated respecting the condition, and disposition of the British forces in India. His Highness receives the small salary of $17,000 a year, as commander-in-chief. The soldiers of the '' line " receive as pay the large sum of $105 annually. From the very simple considerations of safety, and salary, most men would prefer being commander-in-chief. The London Parks, ornamented with winding flower-bordered pathways, stately oaks, sparkling fountains, miniature lakes, and marble monu- ments, — are charming places of recreation and amusement. The Englishman's love for the green sward, is revealed in the number and location of these ^' city lungs." The Surrey Gardens, covering an area of 16 acres, are in the southern section of the city. Victoria Park, situated in the north-east, contains 290 acres. This may be styled the poor man's park, as the laboring-classes reside in the immediate vicinity. Regent's Park, in the north- west, covers an area of 472 acres, and contains within its limits the beautiful " Royal Botanical Gardens," and the popular and unrivalled ^' Zoolo- gical Gardens." u?wo thousand animals are here PARKS. ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN. 173 exhibited. The arrangements for bird and beast are most admirable. By the labels on the doors and cages, we are informed that a large number of the " inhabitants " were presented to the man- agement by ship captainS; travelers, and various explorers on land and sea. James' Park, containing 91 acres, Green Park 60 acres, Hyde Park 390 acres, and Kensington Gardens 210 acres, are all in the western part of the city, and quite close to each other. The dis- tance from the east end of James' Park, to the west end of Kensington Gardens, is nearly three miles ; and in traveling between the two points, the pedestrian traverses these four parks in suc- cession, and may walk almost continuously over the smooth green turf In this pleasant three miles excursion, we pass the Pall Mall, Piccadilly, and Buckingham Pal- ace ; and are surrounded on all sides by the costly and magnificent residences of princely merchants, eminent bankers, noble lords, and royal dukes. CHAPTER yill. WINDSOR CASTLE AND THE QUEEN. Windsor Castle, about twenty miles distant from London, is the principal residence of the English monarchs. It was founded by William the Conqueror, and is situated upon an eminencie commanding a most extensive, and charming view of the surrounding country. The day is bright and beautiful, and an hour's ride brings us in sight of this royal Palace. The flag floats on the Tower, indicating that the Queen is at home. By climbing 160 steps, and proceeding to the '^ Terrace,'^ we have the grandest view of English rural scenery thus far enjoyed. What waving woods, lovely parks, and winding silvery streams greet the eye ! From the Castle Terrace, we see " Where the silver Thames first rural grows." The sloping grounds are tastefully ornamented with shrubbery, and flower-beds curiously ar- ranged, while the w^inding pathways are pleasantly 174 WINDSOR. THE QUEEN. BEATRICE. 175 shaded by stately trees. Along these smooth flower-bordered walks, over and through these emerald velvety lawns, where the atmosphere is sweet with fragrance, and vocal with song, Eng- land's Queen rambles daily. Her Majesty is driving in the Park this after- noon, and paying a visit to the tomb of her be- loved Albert. Victoria and Albert were " lovely and pleasant in their lives/' and the manner in which his memory is cherished by the widowed Queen, does honor to her sex, and sheds a brighter lustre on England's Grown. This great Windsor Park, where the deer run wild, and royal game is in abundance, contains 3800 acres ; and the Forest is 56 miles in circum- ference. But here comes the Queen, accompanied by Princess Beatrice, — the only unmarried daughter. They are seated in a very plain open carriage. A splendid pair of gray horses seem proud of their traces, while the driver is as imperious as a Prince. The Queen is robed in dark-colored garments ; is quite unassuming in manner ; has a serious and thoughtful expression of countenance ; — and such a real, true motherly look ! Beatrice is a comely, modest maiden. She seems quite unconscious of her position, title, and surroundings. How could she be vain, and 176 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. triflings in the presence of such a thoughtful, wise, and godly mother ? John Brown, — Prince Albert's faithful Scotch servant,— accompanies the royal party. How easily a " lord'' might envy him his position, — the Queen's ever-present attendant ! The gate-keeper's daughter, a Scotch lassie, who has a brother in America, is quite talkative, and communicates sundry items of information respect- ing the royal household. This young woman con- verses daily with the Queen, who seems to be strongly attached to the Scotch. A Highland piper, we are informed, plays every afternoon under the palace window, for the amusement and pleasure of Her Majesty. When the Queen is ^' in residence," visitors are not permitted to inspect the royal apartments. But to view these grand old Gothic structures, lofty towers, and palace courts ; to see England's Queen and Windsor Castle, is quite sufficient for one afternoon. Buckingham Palace, the city residence of the Sovereign, is this evening brilliantly illuminated. Taking tea, in the neighborhood of the Palace, and being attracted by whirling equipages, and prancing steeds, we inquire the cause of this com- motion among the aristocracy. A policeman on the " Mall " informs us that the Queen has ordered ROYAL RECEPTION AT BUCKINGHAM. 177 a ^^ State reception/^ and requested the Prince of Wales to represent Her Majesty. As this is one of the very few royal receptions given since the death of the Prince Consort, it awakens quite an interest among the fashionables of the West End. And as Parliament is in session, and the noble- men of Britain are all at the metropolis, the attend- ance is large, and the display most brilliant. Just picture the audience, with the following indi- viduals in '^ full dress," viz. : 6 Princes, and 3 Princesses; 116 members of the diplomatic corps, representing 24 different nations; 19 Dukes, and 19 Duchesses; 21 Marquises, and 23 Marchion- esses; 76 Earls, and 53 Countesses; 43 Counts, and 23 Viscountesses ; 103 Lords, and 300 Ladies ; 40 Eight Honourables, 80 Honourables, and 140 Honourable Mesdames ; 75 Sirs, 160 Messieurs, and 125 Mesdames; 33 Admirals, 22 Captains, 10 Commanders, 50 Generals, and 57 Colonels ! The Scots Fusilier Guards, mounted in the Palace Court, act as a guard of honor. The Eoyal Body Guard of the Yeomen, are on duty in the interior of the palace. In company with a large number of un-titled individuals, we attend this royal reception, — out- side the Palace gate. But even at this distance, there are/^ streaming 178 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. glories," quite sufficient to dazzle our republican eyes. Hundreds of carriages come whirling to the palace gate: — from the two-wheeled Hansom cab, drawn by a spirited pony, to the royal chariot thundering at the heels of six richly caparisoned horses. These numerous vehicles, with their lamps all trimmed and burning, sweeping through the upper gate, winding around the stately palace, and rolling homeward through the southern en- trance, form lines and circles of wavy light, that are beautiful to behold. The appearance is that of a hurried torchlight procession, marching in single file. But there is quite an excitement. Policemen are running to and fro. There is lively cheering along the streets. The " clatter of street pacing steeds" are heard in the distance ; and a stentorian loyal Britisher thrills the expectant crowd by shouting '^ here comes the Prince ! ^' Along the wide " Mall" from Marlborough Plouse, the royal chariot, drawn by six richly caparisoned galloping horses, comes thundering towards the gate. There are twQ mounted " coachmen," and four gorgeously appareled '^ footmen." A detachment of the royal Horse Guards, in full military uniform, and brandishing glittering swords, surround His Royal Highness. The spectacle is brilliant. Loud cheers ring out from the enthusiastic spectators. And PRIXCESSES. HOW ADOENED. 179 when this royal procession is lost to view behind the stately palace, we wander homeward, wishing that we were the Prince of Wales, — or, indeed, any other member of the Royal Family. But we imagine that some of our lady readers, are exceedingly anxious to know how these Prin- cesses were adorned. " What did the Princess of Wales wear ? '^ " What kind of head-dress crowned the Princess Christian?" "Please do tell us." Having the slightest possible knowledge of the millinery business, and yet wishing to gratify the desires of our inquisitive readers, we consult the critic of the London Times. This gentleman is regarded as " authority,'' among the " higher '' circles of Metropolitan society. He solemnly assures us that " Her Royal Highness, the Princess of Wales, w^ore a dress of brown poult-de-soie with plaitings of brown tulle and Honiton lace, orna- mented with garlands of the rose-de-the and veiled with silver spotted tulle. Head-dress and orna- ments of pearls and diamonds. Orders, Victoria and Albert, and the Danish Family Order.'' The same reliable authority informs us that '^ Her Royal Highness, the Princess Christian, wore a dress of white moire antique and satin trimmed with Brussels lace, white orchids, and tulle. Head- dress, tiara of torquoises and diamonds with bunches of orchids. Ornaments, torquoise, and 180 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. diamonds. Orders, Victoria and Albert, and the Prussian, Portuguese, and Russian Orders.'' Any further explanation seems quite unnecessary. The Crystal Palace, crowning the heights of Sydenham, is one of the most attractive, and in- structive places of popular resort in all Europe. To reach it, in the distant suburbs, we take the " Rail Road of the Rats.'' This is the name given by the ^' Cockneys" to the underground passage. A ticket is purchased for the Thames Tunnel, in order that we may travel, neither above, nor on, but under the river. Descending several flights of stairs, we stand in an underground station, await- ing the arrival of the train. This Tunnel consists of two arched passages 1200 feet long, 14 feet wide, 16 J feet high, separated by a brick wall 4 feet thick. The crown of the arch is 16 feet below the bed of the river. The total cost was over $2,225,000. Strange how a little insect, suggested to Brunei the plan by which this marvel of engineering could be accom- plished. In studying the form of this little crea- ture, and the manner in which it cuts its way through the hardest wood, the great engineer was enabled to pierce beneath the bed of the Thames. How wise is the great Architect ; and how His wisdom shines even in the structure of the tiniest insect. Well might the Psalmist exclaim, "O UNDER THE THAMES. CRYSTAL PALACE. 181 Lord how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom hast thou made them all V^ The passage through the Tunnel is made with- out any real discomfort, only we emerge upon the other side with a better appreciation of sunlight, and the beauties of the " upper worlcl.^^ The Palace grounds are reached and explored. These grounds, including the Garden, and Park, contain over 200 acres. The undulating and slop- ing surface, is intersected by winding pathways, and ornamented with terraces, temples, fountains, cascades, close-cut lawns, shrubbery, and flowers, most artistically and beautifully arranged. The shining " Crystal " edifice crowns the eminence, and commands the most extensive view within 20 miles of London. The building cost $7,250,000. The whole scene is a perfect surprise. But let us walk up the hillside noting a few of the most interesting objects. Here in the valley, is the largest educational model we have ever seen on exhibition. It covers several acres ; and com- bines land and water. It is a most successful effort to illustrate the structure of the earth, by presenting the various strata, in the same relative position disclosed by geology. Here is a little mountain artificially constructed. It contains several thousand tons of various kind of rocks. These rocks are arranged according to 182 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. the teachings of geology. Beneath is the old red sandstone, concerning which Hugh Miller wrote so eloquently. Then follows mountain limestone, millstone grit, bands of ironstone, beds of coal, and the new red sandstone. But standing along these artificial mounds, are the forms of animals inhabiting the lakes and the forests, in those far-distant and uncertain ages. Here is the Magalosaurus, and Mososaurus, and Plesiosaurus, and Hylseosaurus. What strange and frightful-looking creatures ! As we ascend the sloping hillside, the fountains begin to ^' play.'' The basin of this fountain is 784 feet long, with a diameter of 468 feet. The central jet leaps 250 feet into the air ! When all the fountains are sporting themseh^es, 11,788 jets sparkle in the sunlight ! And 120,000 gallons of water are forced through the pipes in a minute. In a single complete display, 2,000,000 gallons of water are sent bounding towards the sky in fifteen minutes ! Passing the cascades and climbing the stairway, we enter the building. The interior is most beau- tifully arranged. Along the nave on either side, are a number of " courts,'^ designed to illustrate tiie style of architecture peculiar to the different nations, or prevalent in certain centuries. This is a most interesting department. Here are the CRYSTAL PALACE. CONCERTS. AMUSEMENTS. 183 Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, Byzantine, Italian, and French Courts, each ornamented with such decorations as were most admired, by the artists of these several countries. The entertainments this afternoon are varied. In one of the concert-rooms, the " Mountaineers of the Apennines " are amusing an immense au- dience, by playing upon their novel instruments. At 3J o'clock the " orchestral band,'' makes the air musical ; at 5J- the "Mexican athlete " performs on the " High Bars," while Mr. Coward, the great organist, delights the music-loving visitors, with selections from the compositions of Rossini, Han- del, and Mozart. The annual expense of the " Palace " amounts to $300,000. The price of admission is 25 cents each day except Saturday, wlien the charge is 60 cents. None of the London Art Galleries or Ex- hibition Palaces are open on the Sabbath. By climbing, spirally, 400 steps, we stand upon the Palace Tower. The elevation is 200 feet higher than the cross on St. Paul's and 550 feet above the surface of the Thames. Yonder is London lying along the banks of the river, a veritable "smoky hollow." The panorama of woods, and meadows, shining cottages and bloom- ing gardens, is quite picturesque. aS'^. Faults Cathedral, is considered by the crit- 184 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. ics '^ the noblest biiildino; in Great Britain in the Classic style. '^ It is built in the form of a Latin cross; is 550 feet east and west; 250 feet north and south ; and the distance from the pavement to the cross is 370 feet. The cross is 30 feet in height and weighs 3360 lbs. The great bell weighs 11.000 lbs. The building w^as 35 years in course of erection: was completed in 1710; and cost 13.750.000. This enormous sum was raised by a *^ small" tax on coal. The circumference of the building is 2292 feet. It is located in the very midst of the business section of the city, being surrounded by two streets, called the '^Bow'^ and "the String." Land in the vicinity of St. Paul's is valued at 15.000.000 an acre! The Cathedral contains several beautiful monu- ments; and many illustrious men, — poets, philoso- phers, soldiers, and sailors, have found in St. Paul's their last resting-place. Here are the tombs of the Duke of Wellington, Lord Nelson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Benjamin West. On Sabbath evening, an immense audience is seated under the dome, and in the nave, and tran- septs. The Lord Bishop of Manchester is the preacher. The celebration of the anniversary of the "Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals '^ is the occasion. The audience is es- ST. Paul's, sabbath service. 185 timated at 10^000. The hymns are printed upon '^ slips/' that all may unite in the service of song. Some of these hymns are very familiar : — " Jesus lover of my soul Let me to thy bosom fly," and *' Hark ! hark, my soul ; Angelic songs are swelling O'er earth's green fields, and ocean's wave-beat shore: How sweet tJie truth those blessed strains are telling Of that new life when sin shall be no more." The distinguished preacher is enabled, with the assistance of a sounding board, to scatter his well- rounded periods among the audience, making him- self quite intelligible to the thousands of listeners. The music and the singing is grand ! That magni- ficent organ handled by a celebrated " performer ;'^ the trained cathedral choir ; and the 10,000 wor- shipers, — all in unison — is most impressive, and inspiring. Never did we enjoy such a service of song. And we can never forget this beautiful Sabbath evening, spent in St. Paul's. Westminster Abbey, is the most venerable-look- ing, and the most interesting Church edifice we have ever visited. It is 416 feet long, and 203 broad ; the height of the roof from the pavement is 101 feet; and the height of the Towers 225 feet. It is built in the forrn of a Latin Qi^oss • iu 3* 186 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. the pointed style of architecture ; and the erection of some parts of the edifice, is ascribed to Edward the Confessor, who ruled 800 years ago. The beautiful stained glass windows, are orna- mented with representations of Old and New Tes- tament worthies :— Moses, Aaron, the Patriarchs, Christ, and the Apostles. The aisles, transepts and chapels, contain numerous and costly monu- ments, erected to the memory of the illustrious dead. The Choir is wainscoted, and elegantly fitted up with stalls and seats. This is Monday afternoon, and the entire build- ing is open to visitors free of charge. Beginning at the " Poet's Corner,''^ in the south transept, we will slowly ramble through this venerable Abbey Minster. In this " corner " we find monuments erected to Shakspeare, Chaucer, Spenser, Dryden, Addison, Goldsmith, Campbell, Gray, and to sev- eral other distinguished literary men. Here also Thackeray, Dickens, Grote, and David Livingstone are buried. In the south transept we find a gravestone marking the resting place of "Old Parr," who lived in the reigns of three princes, and who died in 1635, aged 152 years ! In the north transept, there is a noble monu- ment to Lord Chatham. It was erected by the King and Parliament, and cost $30,000. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. TOMBS 187 " Bacon there Gives more than female beauty to a stone, And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips." Here also is a standing statue of Sir Robert Peel ; and these are the smooth stones covering the graves of Pitt and Fox. *' The mighty chiefs sleep side by side ; Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier." In the nave, are monuments to Sir William Temple, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir James Mackintosh, William Pitt, C. J. Fox, and Major Andre ! Andre was executed by the Americans as a spy in 1780; and the monument to his memory was erected at the expense of George III. Henry VII.' S Chapel contains the tombs and effigies of Henry YII. and Queen : the work was executed by an Italian artist, and was regarded by Lord Bacon, as *^^one of the stateliest and dain- tiest tombs in Europe." In the south aisle of the chapel is a tomb, with a recumbent effigy of Mary Queen of Scots. This was erected by her son, James I. The marble face is beautiful ; and around it gather crowds of visitors, — men and women, — w^ho frequently exclaim, — what a lovely face ! The north aisle contains the tomb and e^gy of Queen Elizabeth. Her sister, Queen Mary, is buried in 188 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. the same grave. In this chapel the '* Westminster Assembly " held a number of meetings. The ^' Chapel of Edward the Confessor " is per- haps the most interesting of these royal cemeteries. The shrine of this somewhat superstitious mon- arch, is erected in the centre of the chapel, and surrounded by the graves and monuments of Kings and Queens, Here is a bronze effigy of Henry III. ; and the altar tombs of Edward I., Edward III., and Henry V. Twenty Kings and Queens of England are buried in these chapels. The ^' Coronation chairs '' are kept in the " Con- fessor's " Chapel. In this modest old chair, the ,Kings and Queens of England have been crowned during the past 600 years ! A very strange-look- ing stone is attached to the bottom of the chair, by cramps of iron. How came this piece of reddish gray sandstone, 26 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 11 inches thick into such a position? Why has this been strapped to England's coronation chair ? The explanation is very simple. On this stone the Kings of Scotland, in the '^ guid auld '' days were crowned. Edward I. cap- tured it, and carried it to England as evidence of England's supremacy. And thus England and Scotland became united, in the '^Chapel of Edward the Confessor,'' — by bands of iron. But the sun is sinking in the west; and the OLD MINSTER SERVICES. SCENES. 189 aisles and monuments are faintly illumined by " the dim religious light '^ streaming through the stained glass windows. Standing in ' the choir, where for centuries the monarchs have been crowned, and looking upon those statues designed to perpetuate their memory, we reflect upon the scenes this venerable building has witnessed, and the generations that have worshiped within its walls. How many brilliant coronation proces- sions have marched, during the past 600 years, through yonder gateway ! How many sad and sorrowing assemblages have crowded this stately temple, when the Abbey bell summoned a weep- ing nation, to behold the open grave of a sover- eign beloved ! To how many stormy debates, and to what thrilling eloquence, has the old Chapter- house listened, during the 300 years it was the " home " of the Commons of England ! And to what learned discussions, and profound theological disquisitions did these walls listen, during the 1163 sessions of the memorable Assembly, that presented to the world our grand old " Confession of Faith ! " How many of England's greatest warriors, statesmen, poets, were borne along these aisles to solemn burial. By how many strange voices has the mass been chanted, and the service-book read beneath this vaulted roof. And what numbers of 190 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. God's elect, — -saintly men and women, — have here knelt in prayer, or united in the glad responses ! And what changes political and ecclesiastical ; what struggles for supremacy on the part of diverse races and hostile clans ; what battle fields red with the blood of Saxon, Norman, and English ; what establishing and overthrowing of dynasties ; and what improvement in the moral and physical con- dition of the people of England, have the watch- men on the walls of this Zion beheld, from the days of Henry III. to those of Victoria I ! But now the twilight fadeth into darkness, and we must depart. A solemn silence reigns over all. In passing along the nave, these erect statues, in striking attitudes and flowing marble robes, seem to beckon us with their uplifted hands. We ex- perience strange emotions in presence of such a scene ; and stepping over the threshold, cease com- muning with the dead, and again look upon and mingle with the living. The Sabbath afternoon services at Westminster Abbey, are well attended. The choir and tran- septs are crowded. Tourists from all quarters, come to hear the eloquent Dean Stanley. And during the '' season,'' the audience is exceedingly aristocratic. What " noble " men, and '' lionor- able'' women this afternoon occupy these cathe- ■ dral stalls ! Here, during the sessions of Parlia- SERVICES. 191 ment, the ^'lords'' of earth worship the Lord of Heaven. The scene indeed is strange and striking. All around are the tombs of the departed. Close beside us are the statues of the immortal dead. From the stained glass windows, Moses, Aaron, and the Patriarchs, look benignantly down upon the wor- shipping assembly. A charming life-size portrait of the Queen, smiles upon us from the chancel. Clergymen robed ^' in spotless white," read from the desk, w^hile the distant aisles, and lofty arches, resound with the responses of organ and choir* The Dean is not present to-day ; but a " Canon" discourses on Christian benevolence. The sermon is simple, earnest, evangelical. Whether he be a broad-churchman or not, there is certainly a broad charity inculcated. Would that all the sacred cita- dels ofEngland were defended by just such *'Canon" ! Mr, Spurgeon^s Tabernacle, is on the south side of the Thames. Externally it has very little to excite admiration. Strangers w^ould never regard it as a church edifice. It is 145 feet long, 81 broad, 62 high, and cost $150,000. We arrive in time to inspect the Sabbath-school, and attend the morning prayer-meeting. The superintendent is a pleasant, genial Englishman. The majority of the teachers are young, and seem thoroughly in earnest. In the infant department we find just 192 WA.NDERINGS IN EUROPE. fifty small men and little women. The teacher seems well-adapted for the work of "juvenile'' in- struction ; and by suitable questions enables the " little ones " to give the stranger some informa- tion respecting the Sabbath school lesson. The walls of the school-rooms are decorated with beautiful and appropriate Scripture mottoe?. The entire service is conducted in a quiet, yet earnest manner. There is no attempt at " display." There are no " striking '' portraits grinning on the black-board ; no representations of human hearts in red, white, and blue chalk. And the hymn-books are not "just issued!" They are welhthumbed ; contain many of those Christian songs sung for generations ; and are remarkably free from jingling nonsense. The tunes are also appropriate. The children in singing, are wor- shiping and not waltzing. In all parts of the service, there is a simplicity, a sincerity, an earn- estness, that is both beautiful and impressive. A morning prayer-meeting is held, just before the preaching service. It is conducted by a very plain-looking individual, who enjoins the brethren to be " prompt and brief" The number present, — of both sexes, — is quite large, the singing spirited, and the prayers tender and beseeching. What prayers are offered for a blessing upon the Pastor, — just about to enter the pulpit ! We have NEVER IN TIME. SINGING. SERMON. 193 never listened to such pleadings for a blessing upon the labors of any preacher. And may not this be the secret of Spurgeon^s marvelous success ? The church is well-filled when the service be- gins. And yet many come late. Some people are always lagging behind, but are especially slow in attending the church. But the preacher is prompt, and the service is conducted in the follow- ing order : — Invocation ; hymn beginning, '^ God in His Church is known ; " Scripture reading, and exposition ; hymn ^' I'm not ashamed to own my Lord;'' prayer occupying about 12 minutes; church notices ; sermon ; hymn : — " Leave thee — never ! Where for safety could I go ? " benediction. The Tabernacle is elliptical in form, and two deep galleries run round the interior of the build- ing. The preacher stands upon a raised platform, nearly on a plane with the lower gallery. He thus commands the audience, and the audience commands him. The congregation bow in prayer, and stand in singing. Upon the reading of a hymn, the tune to which it is sung, is announced. If the singing is slow or spiritless, the preacher urges the people to " sing more quickly and joy- ously brethren ! " And the response, from the 194 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 5,000, or 6,000, is hearty and inspiring. The great majority of the people are shop-keepers, me- chanics, laboring men ; and the galleries are crowded with the yonng of both sexes. In the pews, immediately in front of the preacher, there are a number of plump, sleek, well-dressed men and women, who might be numbered among the wealthy. And when the service is concluded a few of the worshipers are carried homeward in stylish conveyances. Mr. Spurgeon is a short thick-set man. There is nothing in his appearance to indicate his power. He looks as unlike the stereotyped ecclesiastic, as the exterior of the Tabernacle looks unlike a modern church edifice. He has the manner of a business man ; is quick in his movements ; mirthful and mirth-provoking : and really appears like a big, well-fed, overgrown boy. But what a voice ; what fluency of speech and lofty eloquence ; what familiarity with Scripture and profound knowledge of human nature ; what convincing argument and thrilling appeal ; what consuming earnestness, and complete self-forgetfulness ! No pulpit or table intervenes between him and his audience. He stands behind the low railing that surrounds the platform, and addresses the immense assemblage with the most perfect abandon. The morning theme was " The Christian Afflicted ;'^ the evening WISE DEACONS. STINGY SAINTS. 195 sermon discussed '^ Retribution." In the morning, the audience laughed and wept ; in the evening, there were many that trembled. The Tabernacle, it is said, holds 6,000, and is always full. Good seats are in great demand. The pew-holders have always the preference until the service begins. A somewhat worldly-wise policy is adopted by the " Deacons '' on the Sab- bath evenings. They stand at the outer gates and distribute small envelopes to those who are eager to gain admittance. These envelopes are a polite invitation to subscribe a "little," for the support of the benevolent work of the church. Those who thus subscribe are admitted to the interior of the building, and have the choice of the unoccupied seats when the service commences. And yet some will not subscribe ! Not even a choice seat in the great Metropolitan Tabernacle, with the eloquent Spurgeon on the platform, will induce some of these mean, miserly church-goers to contribute a single sixpence. They will take all, and give nothing. Others must pay for lighting, heating, cleaning, and re- pairing the building ; others must pay the pastor's salary, and contribute to objects of benevolence, but they will pay nothing. Common sense, con- science, would suggest that if they share in the en- joyments, they should share in the expenses. AYhy 196 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. should they be so lacking in self-respect ; why should they be so stingy and miserly, as to allow others to pay their church expenses? And yet here they linger around the gate, waiting until they can march in, and take a ^' free seat." Shame on such delinquents, when they are able to pay ! Doctor Parker, represented " The Modern Pul- pit " at the meeting of the Evangelical Alliance in New York City. His new '^Temple Church" has just been completed, and the Doctor's reputa- tion attracts a large and brilliant audience. A front pew has been sacredly set apart in this new church for the use of Americans. A gentlemanly usher conducts us to the ^' front/' where we find pleasantly seated a few Yankee pilgrims, who have come in this morning *' from going to, and fro in the earth.'' The congregation at the " Temple" differs much from that assembling at the " Tabernacle." It is not as large, but is much more "select." The preachers are also quite unlike. Dr. Parker is undoubtedly a most eloquent preacher. He has one of the finest pulpit voices to which we have ever listened. His sermons are thoroughly ela- borated. He is enthusiastic ; and occasionally there are sudden outbursts of passionate eloquence, that thrill the entire audience. But he is shielded by a desk ; reads pretty closely ; appears self-con- BRILLIANT SCENE AT HYDE PARK. 197 scious ; is somewhat affected in manner : and in his arguments and illustrations, is quaint and con- ceited. He is ecclesiastically J a * ' congregationalist ;'^ but we w^ould infer that in theology, and in every- thing else, he is pretty '^independent." To this brilliant metropolitan, we might address the words of Shakespeare : — " You were glad to be employed To show how quaint an orator you are." The population of London is exceedingly ''mixed." Along these crowded thoroughfares walk representatives of every nation on the globe, and of every isle of the sea. And here meet the paupers and the princes. Wealth and poverty stand face to face. In the eastern districts, the houses are crowded, the streets are filthy, and the condition of the people, pitiable. But the poor are not forgotten. $20,000,000 are expended an- nually, in aiding the distrest. Some of the wealthy Londoners, following in the footsteps of Peabody, are erecting " improved dwellings." Others are employing the missionary, the tract distributor, and providing places of worship. And yet in this city of millions, " the harvest truly is great, but the laborers are few." Around Hyde Park, and along "Eotten Row," the scene at 3 or 4 o'clock in the afternoon is ex- ceedingly brilliant. The magnificent and costly 198 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. equipages ; the prancing steeds gaily caparisoned ; the princes, dukes, and lords, arrayed in richest garb ; the liveried coachmen, with silver-clasped shoes, silken stockings, velvet breeches, scarlet vests, gorgeously glittering coats, and silken hats ornamented with flashing cockades : what a spec- tacle to look upon, on a lovely afternoon in the month of June ! Rotten Row, is set apart for the equestrians. Here, the finest saddle-horses in the world, mounted by the most graceful riders of both sexes, canter and gallop, watched by hundreds and thou- sands of admiring spectators. The coaches move along 5 and 6 abreast ; and the saddle-horses come pacing down the ^' Row " 8 and 10 in a line, whip- ped and spurred by the '^ beautiful contestants." The signs over the doors of the " shops '' are somewhat amusing, and instructive. The pro- prietors, with an eye to business, inform the vulgar public of their royal or noble patrons. This man is '^ confectioner to the Queen," or " stationer to the Prince of Wales," or " draper to His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge;" and this woman is "patronized by the Royal Family." They appreciate good customers. The English people treat us very kindly ; and although occasionally boastful, are nevertheless very agreeable companions. In dress, they diflfer PUFFY CHEEKS. BOOZY BRITONS. 199 in some respects from Americans. They prefer comfort, to fashion. Their garments are somewhat loose, and lacking in " style. ^' Boots and shoes are large and strong. Paper soles, and high heels, are not the most popular. The ladies never waste time in pushing a large foot into a Chinese boot. They walk on their feet, and not on their toes, even at the risk of beino^ laro^e-footed. The English, — like the Irish and Scotch, — have their national beverage. They drink porter and ale. And the amount of these liquids swallowed daily by an average-sized drayman, is surprising. At an outdoor festival, where the laboring classes meet to spend a "holiday,'' the drinking scenes are novel and amusing. A dozen men sit around a table ; a stone jug holding nearly a gallon is placed before them filled with the frothy fluid ; and this is seized wdth both hands by each of the party in succession, until its contents is poured down the thirsty throats of these boozy Britons. Tumb- lers and goblets they despise. And the spectacle of a bulky little Englishman with puffy cheeks and scarlet nose, hoisting this foaming gallon mea- sure to his giddy head, w^ould be ludicrous if it "were not sad. Porter and ale are not so intensely stimulating as Irish and Scotch whisky ; but these English topers are as round as the barrels they have emptied, and smell very much like them. 200 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Before bidding good-bye to London, and leaving for the Continent, we may state that the charges, — in hotels and boarding-houses, or on railroads, are by no means excessive. The railroad coaches are similar, in pattern and style, to those already de- scribed. There are three classes of cars, — first, second, and third. By act of Parliament the charges are as follows: — 1st class cars per mile 6 cents ; 2nd class, 4 J cents ; 3rd class 3 cents. Only the very wealthy travel in the 1 st class. There are also what are termed the " Parliamentary trains.'' By act of Parliament, railroad companies are obliged to run two daily trains over their respec- tive roads, at a charge of 2 cents a mile. We have traveled over the country on these trains at a high rate of speed, rejoicing in the reduced fare, and thanking Providence that there were some legisla- tures that could not be bought, by conscienceless corporations. "High life" in London, has been enjoyed at a moderate expense. We have a nicely furnished room, the privilege of a beautiful parlor, the Lon- don daily papers, and the society of a most refined company of guests. We rejoice every day over the choicest cutlets, the juiciest steaks, and the most delicious soups. After rushing through tunnels, climbing towers, exploring docks, traversing parks, inspecting museums, wandering through li- FOOD. EXPENSES. LONDON SABBATH. 201 braries, listening to wrangling lawyers and debat- ing ^'Commoners/' and walking a dozen miles through winding streets, — how the '^ebbing" life of the tourist is changed into a " full-tide ^^ of physical vitality, by a dish of nutritious English mutton broth ! This we have tested and found to be an unfailing stimulant. But what are the charges per week for these rare privileges ? Why just ten dollars a week ! But this is the result of close study and careful planning. The Sabbath day in London is remarkably quiet. God, by the Sabbath day, lays His hand upon the throbbing heart of the great metropolis, — and behold how still ! The libraries, art galle- ries, museums, and places of business, are all closed. How grand is London, — with her docks crowd- ed with shipping ; her merchant princes controlling the world's commerce ; her bankers shaping the financial policy of kings ; her Parliament debating questions affecting the interests of hundreds of millions on distant continents ! But how beauti- ful is London, when in obedience to the voice of God, business ceases, quiet reigns, the church bells invite to worship, and from temples dedicated to the Most High, prayer and praise ascend to Heaven ! Love for law human and divine, — this is England's glory. May Britannia never cease to rule the waves ! 9 CHAPTER IX. BELGIUM. ANTWERP. BRUSSELS. Leaving London in the afternoon, we go direct to Antwerp. The train carries us to Harwich ; and from Harwich the steamer conveys us over the German Ocean, and up the Scheldt, to this Belgic city, Dutch galleys, Avith red and white sails, and yellow painted rudders, are floating on the river, while from the distant banks, the re- volving vanes of towering windmills seem to beckon us ashore. A number of ships are resting in the harbor, and great activity prevails along the wharves. But here comes that cruel ''custom- house officer." Our innocent valise is turned in- side out, and every article carefully examined. We protest in vigorous English, but without the slightest eflect. This faithful official replies to all our protests and inquiries, in a language that, in our ears, sounds like a mixture of French and Dutch. In all our linguistic studies ; in all our rambles through the German and French " quar- ters" in London, we never heard or read anything 202 DOG WAGO^'S. DRESS. CATHEDRAL. 203 that could compare with this gentleman's lan- guage. If all the Belgians talk in this manner, our progress through this most populous little kingdom must indeed be slow. In Antwerp, the houses are built of stone and brick, and the streets are paved with Belgic blocks. In the wide avenues are pretty booths, w^here jewelry and various '' notions/^ arc sold at very tempting prices. The people dress somewhat picturesquely. Clog shoes rattle along the pave- ment. Old men wear woolen hose of three dif- ferent colors, — blue, red, and striped. The women pace the streets proud of their purple petticoats. A new mode of conveyance greets the eye, — the dog wagon. Yonder is a sturdy dog pulling a lazy woman ! The sight is ludicrous. The hus- band leads the dog, and the wife sits in the w^agon ! The cathedral steeple is 416 feet high, and by climbing 616 steps we reach the summit. The view is magnificent. The city, the river, the dykes, and the country for scores of miles, are clearly seen. This Cathedral has a chime of 40 bells. And while in the steeple we have the pleasure of listening to the " chiming of thebells.'^ They chime every quarter of an hour. The smallest bell weighs 40 lb. ; the largest 12,000 lb. It requires 16 men to ring the latter. In this 20 i WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. city Rubens was born, and in the Cathedral may be seen one of his masterpieces; — '' The Descent from the Cross.'^ It is a wonderful painting. The grouping, posturing and coloring, give such an appearance of reality, that we, almost, expect to see the figures move. How the figure of " the dead Christ/' contrasts with the forms of those who stand around the cross ! In some of these churches, the altar and pulpit decorations, are costly and beautiful. The polished black, white and red marbles, shine like mirrors. And the organs are embellished with representations of cherubs and angels, holding violins, trumpets, and harps. These carvings in walnut, are of exquisite workmanship. From Antwerp to Brussels, is a pleasant ride through a charming country. There are no hedges, or fences. Long rows of elms and pop- lars, mark the boundaries of fields, or farms. Men and women are toiling in the meadows. Some swing the scythe ; others rake the hay, and pile it on the waiting wagons. The crops look beautiful. Brussels is the pride of the Belgians. It has magnificent promenades; charming parks, orna- mented with statues and fountains: and some large and imposing edifices. This being Saturday evening the streets are crowded, and the shops BEER GARDENS. SUNDAY DOG MARKET. 205 brilliantly illuminated. The Belgians appear to be fond of beer, — and the drinking is done in pub- lic. The open paved squares are transformed into bar rooms and beer gardens. Long lines of small marble-topped tables are surrounded by men and women, who sit chatting and drinking with the most absolute freedom. Here are hundreds of husbands and wives, emptying their wine and beer glasses with wonderful rapidity. Clouds of segar smoke hang heavily over these increasingly talkative, and occasionally belligerent tipplers. And here sit women apart by themselves, holding a high debate over the sparkling wine glass, or foaming beer mug ! And all this along a public highway ! We have seen women enter public houses in England, Ireland, and Scotland ; but never have we seen the most degraded touch the beverage in an open square, in full view of the public. And these Belgic women are well dressed, haughty in manner, and really seem proud of their evening occupation. The Sabbath day in Brussels is not a holyday. It is simply a holiday. The shops, stores, and. taverns are open. The marketplaces are thronged. Bands of music, followed by crowds of men and women, parade through the streets. And the dog market is well attended ! In attempting to reach the English Church, ^Ye are shocked by these 206 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. scenes of Sabbath desecration. The dog market is to us, quite a new institution. And yet in wind- ing through a crooked street, we are suddenly confronted by this Continental method of keeping holy the Sabbath day. Here scores of dogs, of all sizes, colors, and breeds, are being sold and bought. They are held by cords tied round the neck, — and the larger number are exhibited by women ! How they leap, yelp, bark and bite ! And here are pups in baskets, carried by children who rock to sleep the troublesome curs, by swing- ing the baskets ! This is the kind of Sunday- school these little boys and girls are trained to at- tend. Is not the spectacle a sad one? In returning from the Episcopal Church, the route leads us past several of the Roman Catholic places of worship. The attendance is not large. In some of the churches the priests are giving in- struction to the children. Here and there in dif- ferent parts of the building, groups of boys and girls surround the monk or priest, and are being carefully catechised. But how cold and formal do these instructions appear ! And the children act and answer as if they were under an unpleasant restraint. They may occasionally move an elbow, or indulge in a smile ; but by a sudden shake of that closely shaven head, or a frown of that beard- less face, order is quickly restored. BRUSSELS LACE. BATTLE OF WATERLOO. 207 The Palace of King Leopold is carefully guarded by Belgic soldiers. They are sturdy men ; and as they pace the Palace Court dressed in scarlet breeches, and dark-green coats with yellow facings, attract considerable attention. The "Brussels carpet," and 'Mace/' are not manufactured within the city limits. These cel- ebrated fabrics, are spun and woven in the neigh- boring towns. A young merchant informs us that the laces are manufactured principally in the nun- neries, or in schools controlled and managed by the nuns. The young women receive as com- pensation, tuition and board. " There was a sound of revelry by night ; And Belgium's capital had gathered then Her beauty, and her chivalry ; and bright The lamps^shone o'er fair women and brave men ; And all went merry as a marriage-bell. — But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell I And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! Arm ! arm ! it is — it is the cannon's opening roar ! And there was mounting in hot haste ; the steed, The mustering squadron, and the clattering car, Went pouring forward with impetuous speed, And swiftly forming in the ranks of war ; And the deep thunder peal on peal afar : And near the beat of the alarming drum Konsed up the soldier ere the morning star ; While thronged the citizens with terror dumb." 208 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. Waterloo, is not far distant from '' Belgium's capital/^ and an early morning train conveys us to this scene of mortal strife. The "Hotel du Miisee/' stands on the battle-field ; and while en- joying an excellent breakfast we chat pleasantly with the proprietor, who imparts considerable in- formation respecting Wellington and Napoleon. In the Museum — posted on the wall,— is Napo- leon's address to his "soldiers!" Here also the silver spurs, and the cross of the "Legion of Honor," worn by the Emperor on the battle-field, are exhibited. A mound or monument, erected by the Belgians and the Dutch, affords a fine view of this scene of strife. This monument is 500 yards round the base, and 200 feet high. It is composed of earthy matter, mingled with the remains of the soldiers who fell on either side, during that memorable engagement. In its erection 200 men were em- ployed for a space of three years ; and the cost was nearly $1,000,000. 226 steps lead to the summit, which is crowned by a " Belgic lion." We are quite fortunate in our guide. He is nearly 80 years of age ; was born on the soil ; and was present at the battle. And from this elevated position, standing upon the accumulated remains of slaughtered heroes, we view these valleys and plains over and through WATERLOO MONUMENT. WELLINGTON. 209 which, 60 years ago, sabres flashed, and cannon thundered. Our guide points out the position occupied by Napoleon, and the '^Iron Duke;^' the order of battle array; the extent of the opposing ^' lines;" the valley lying between the embattled hosts; and the distant village through which Blucher marched in attacking the French. And here, close by the monument, the '^Imperial Guard" was shattered and victory won, .by the uprising '^ Grenadiers.'^ But to-day, no flag floats; no bugle sounds; and no sword glitters over the peaceful plain. The grass weaves, the crops grow, and the flowers bloom, as if ^^ Waterloo" had never been fought! CHAPTER X. GERMANY. — AIX LA CHAPELLE. Aix LA Chapelle is the first German city visited. The route from Brussels leads through Louvain, Liege, Verviers, and the distance is about 100 miles. Aix is situated in a valley, surrounded by gently sloping hills, has a population of 73,000, and is famous as the birth-place, and the burial- place of the Emperor Charlemagne. He died in this city in 814. And here also 37 of the kings of Germany were crowned, from 814 to 1531. Wooden representations of the crucifixion are erected at the street corners ; and in the evenings these crooked streets are crowded with jostling Germans. Along the winding thoroughfares, rival merchants present their wares, with violent gestures and deafening shouts. Yonder, an auctioneer thunders in the ears of a gaping crowd of lion- headed men. On the opposite side stands a tall muscular feminine praising her tin merchandize, and dazzling the eyes of licr customers, by turning 210 STREET SCENES, MARKETS. SPRINGS. 211 the blazing jets on the shining tin. And here are groups of men and boys surrounding the '^ wheel of fortune/' and risking a kreutzer on a chance for a big brown cake. After dark the whole town seems to be in motion. We are surprised and delighted. The spectacle is amusing^ and we en- joy it exceedingly. In the early morning the market place is visited. Here are railk-wagons holding 5 or 6 prettily- painted cans, drawn by dogs. And yonder tremb- ling in the traces, is a fine mastiff, — with shapely limbs, noble bearing, and head like a German professor, — while behind him stands a wagon con- taining about a hundred heads of cabbage; all, — we presume — to be converted into the most de- licious saur-krout. The cows are also harnessed, and come toiling up the hill wheeling heavy burdens. Upon a pedestal in the market-place, looking calmly down upon the bustling crowd, is a bronze statue of Charlemagne. A sceptre is held in the right hand, while the left holds a globe and a cross. Aix la Chapelle, since the days of the Romans, has been famous for its " Springs.'^ In a lovely garden intersected by winding flower-bordered paths, shaded by stately trees, we find aristocratic Teutons taking their morning *^ bitters." They walk and drink, and drink and walk to the ^harm- 212 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. ing music discoursed by a well-trained band. These mineral waters are warm, and are sipped as they come steaming from the bubbling fountain. The Munster, or ^^ Dome/^ is an interesting edifice. We enter during the morning service. Some 300 or 400 children are in attendance. The priests are chanting in the choir, and the children are uniting in the responses. Taking a seat in one of the '^stalls '^ and opening a '^ Psalm-book/^ we read, ^' Ad te, Domine, levavi animam meam :" — Unto thee, O Lord, do I lift U23 my soul. The words are from the 25th Psalm as translated in the Latin Vulgate. And how musically do these Psalms in Latin sound, when chanted by these German ecclesiastics ! This Mlinster is said to be the oldest church in Germany. It was built, in part, by Charlemagne, more than 1,000 years ago, and the great monarch was buried under the dome. A large stone with the inscription ^^Carolo Magno,'' marks the place where he was buried, over which and suspended from the dome, swings a bronze chandelier, the gift of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Fre- derick was called the ^^ Xerxes of the Middle Ages.'^ He reigned as King and Emperor of Germany from 1152 till 1190. And this chan- delier has illumined the old church for 700 STEAXGE AND WOX^DERFUL RELICS. 213 But the sacred " Belies ^^ iu this church constitute its chief attraction. Here are exhibited a lock of the virgin's hair ; a piece of the true cross ; Christ's leathern girdle; the cord that bound the rod that smote Christ ; a nail of the cross ; the sponge that was filled with vinegar ; some of the blood and bones of St Stephen ; some manna from the wil- derness ; a few bits of Aaron's rod. These are presented as all genuine. And upon these sacred relics the Emperors of Germany swore at their coronation ! The *' Grand Belies/' are exhibited to vulgar eyes only once in seven years. They consist of the robe worn by the virgin at the nativity, — of cotton and five feet long; the swaddling clothes in which Jesus was wrapped, — coarse yellow cloth ; the cloth in which the head of John the Baptist was laid ; the scarf worn by our Saviour at the crucifixion, — marked vvith blood. These sacred relics were presented by the Pa- triarch of Jerusalem to Charlemagne, over 1000 years ago. And from the 10th to the 24th of July, 1874, more than 500,000 pilgrims and relic- worshippers, thronged this ancient edifice and paid their. respects to these '' Grand Relics." AVe express no opinion regarding the objects thus exhibited. They are certainly very valu- able, — to the priests. Their salaries will be 214 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. promptly paid while these '^ relics '^ remain on exhibition. The admission fee is quite respect- able. And what immense sums are collected every seventh year from these multitudes of pilgrims! In Aix la Chapelle German is universally spoken. In wandering through the winding streets, — with our eyes dazzled by the brilliant reflection of the sparkling jets, — we go astray. The crooked streets tempted us, and we followed on. But our position is critical, — alone, in a for- eign land, in a crooked city, in the dead of night, and everybody talking Dutch ! We pay our po- litest respects to a policeman, informing him of our ^'lost^' condition, and hinting that his ser- vices as guide to the " Hotel du Dragon,'^ would be keenly appreciated. This communication is made in the very best German at command, ex- pressed with due emphasis, proper inflexion, and in such a ^^sweet guttural accent.^^ In fact when struggling for college honors, we never recited Schiller, Goethe, or Burger, so forcibly or im- pressively, as we recite the tale of our misfortunes in the ear of this preserver of the peace. But there is no response, save an ugly shrug of that Dutch shoulder. We again repeat, and resorting to the tactics of the street merchants, suit the ac- tion to the word, — but still no response ! At length, excited beyond measure, we "lay hands" pen:^sylvania dutch, cologne, bones. 215 tenderly upon what we regard as the '^stupidest man in creation/^ and urge a compliance with our request : — when lo ! he speaks, and from the very depths of the lowest diaphragm comes the saddening response in language like this, " Menchen, Ich- weiss nicht, w^as du sagest '' : — which being freely translated means, ^' My dear tourist, I do not understand Pennsylvania Dutch ^^ ! Cologne, on the banks of the Rhine, has a population of 150,000. The streets and side- walks, are narrow and rough, and do not always smell of "cologne." Some of the public buildings are stately structures, and many of the private residences are quite handsome. The Church of St. Ursula, is a strange build- ing, both in the manner of its erection, and the "relics'^ it contains. It is built, largely, of "human bones." The walls, partions, and decorations are composed, in part, of this strange material. A sad looking monk, devoutly leads us through this sepulchral church edifice, point- ing out the objects worthy of pious regard. Here are scores of skulls, tastily arranged, grinning at us from scores of shelves. And there are the toes, finger-nails, and teeth of departed saints, who died long, long ago. Nails of the " true" cross, and sundry sacred relics too valuable to be purchased, are pointed out to us by this simple-minded and 216 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. tender-hearted ecclesiastic. On a centre-table^ is a precious casket made from '' selected portions" of the sainted dead. This is of exquisite workman- ship, sparkles with gems, and is, by all visitors, curiously and carefully inspected. But how came these bones, and skulls, these teeth, and toe- nails to dwell in St. Ursula? The explanation is very simple, — if the reader is simple enough to believe it. St. Ursula, a princess of Britain, marshaling a force of 11,000 virgins, migrated to this region just 1600 years ago. This virgin band came to unite in happy wedlock, with the brave British soldiers keeping watch on the Rhine. They were seized and cruelly murdered by the barbarous Huns. And to perpetuate the memory of their love and their suffering, these relics have been preserved ! An eminent anatomist has discovered among these ^^ remains" the bones of animals; and this fact leads us to suspect, that some little deception may have been practised by certain ecclesiastical architects, during the '^ dark ages." But may not the story of the virgins be true? The Cathedral of Cologne is a most magnificent structure. The foundation stone was laid in 1248, and the edifice is not yet quite completed. Scores of men are, this afternoon, hammering on the roof This cathedral is regarded by critics as the COLOGNE CATHEDRAL. MUSIC. WISE MEN. 217 *' finest specimen of gothic architecture in Europe.'' It is 511 feet long, and 231 feet broad. It has 9 aisles, 116 cloisters, 128 windows, 576 statues, and 5000 turrets. The south entrance has re- cently been completed at a cost of $500,000. On the walls hang ten large and costly paintings, five of which were presented by the King of Bavaria. The symmetry of this majestic edifice, is not marred by any of those projections or graceless ornamenta- tions, that so frequently disfigure similar struc- tures. The harmony is complete. At three o'clock in the afternoon we enter the building. The organ is being played by some master-hand. And the music, — how sweet, sol- emn, sublime! On a sultry afternoon, wearied by excessive walking, how restful to the body, and inspiring to the soul, to sit in this temple and listen to this music ! But are there no " relics " on exhibition ? Yes, quite a variety. No building could survive for 600 years along the banks of the Rhine, if it were not guarded by the sacred dust of some departed saints. The sacristan informs the traveler, that in the rear of the high altar, the "Wise men from the east" lie sleeping! By what strange star their wandering footsteps were guided hither, we are not informed. Certainly they showed " wisdom " in the selection of their last resting-place. And as it re- 218 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. quires the jingling of several German coins to awaken these sleeping ones, we will not disturb their repose. May they rest in peace ! By the payment of an admission fee, we are permitted to climb to the roof, look upon the statues and turrets, and gaze upon the gently- flowing Rhine. The prospect is delightful ; and from these airy summits we return refreshed. Before departing for Bonn, we visit Joh. Mar. Farina, No. 10 Wallrafsplatz. This gentleman claims to be the ^^ original manufacturer^' of Co- logne water. His store is a model of neatness; and upon entering, ''Meseemed I smelt a garden of sweet flowers, That dainty odors from them threw around." Two or three flasks of the "original article '^ are pushed into our valise; and we leave the city, smelling sweeter than the violet or the rose. Bonn is beautifully situated on the left bank of the Rhine. The streets are narrow, paved with rough stone, — and many of them* have no side- walks. Some of the houses are very neat ; and a few wide streets furnish the "aristocrats" ample room for promenading. The University is visited. The buildings form a "quadrangle;" and as the hour for recitation arrives, the students march to their respective class-rooms. They are a lively BONN UNIVERSITY. LIBRARY. PERIODICALS. 219 set of '^fellows;'' wear hats of various colors, but are not gowned. Following in the footsteps of an agreeable young German, we find ourselves seated in the class-room, and listening to Professor Schultz. The topic of the morning lecture is the ^^ German Rebellion.'^ His manner is earnest; style lucid; and by the frequent flashings of his piercing eyes, a stranger would infer that sometimes even the students at Bonn mio;ht be " rebellious." The li- brary building is 504 feet long, and for the privi- lege of inspecting it we pay five silbergroshen, — • equal to 12 cents. The room is ornamented with busts of Luther, Melancthon, and other famous men. On the tables lie 200 periodicals, printed in different languages. Some of these are specially devoted to the discussion of particular subjects, — History, Philosophy, Geography, Philology. In counting and examining these 200 current publi- cations, — coming from all parts of the world, and representing every school of science, philosophy, and religion, — how many do we find representing America? Only one ! ^^The Journal of Science.^' Is this the esteem in which the great ^' Republic of America '^ is held, by this German University? Where is the " North American," the ^^ Bibliotheca Sacra,'' or our own orthodox '^ Princeton?" Prince Al])ert was a student at Bonn ; and some of the musical compositions of Mendelssohn 220 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. in manuscript, are pointed out by the librarian. Several of the present Professors are well known in America. Lange, the distinguished Commen- tator gives instruction in Theology; and Christ- lieb, whose brilliant essay on *^ Modern Doubt/^ so thrilled the Evangelical Alliance in New York city, is also a Professor. We should like to linger and form their acquaintance, but the shrill whistle of the steamboat, summons us to the wharf to take passage up the Rhine. The JRhine, is famous in history, legend, and song. It is the pride of the Germans. And those who have listened to the '^ Watch on the Rhine," know what enthusiasm that song excites, among those who love the dear old " Yaterland." The Rhine has its rise in the Alps, and rolls onward to the sea. The waters from 370 glaciers, and 2700 larger and smaller streams, unite in forming this majestic river. It is not uniform in width or depth. At Mentz, it is over 1500 yards wide, while at Basle the width is only 500. In depth it varies from 10, to 200 feet. In its march it sweeps past Basle, Mentz, Bingen, Coblentz, Bonn, and Cologne. Along its banks the vine is culti- vated. And the sloping hillsides are, for scores of miles, covered with smiling vineyards, while the shining summits are crowned with hoary ruins, — where in ages past dwelt the " robbers of the THE KHINE. YIXE CLAD HILLS. EUINS. 221 Rhine." The frequent and sudden bends in the course of the river, — revealing at each curve new scenes of beauty, — form a succession of delightful surprises, and keep the admiring tourist continu- ally on the alert. Here indeed, looking from the ample deck of our stately steamer, we behold " A blending of all beauties, streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells From gray but leafy walls, where ruin greenly dwells." These monuments of the past, those castle-ruins, appear so lonely, and yet so proud ! "And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind. Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless, save to the crannying wind. Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud. Banners on high, and battles pass'd below. But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those who waved are shredless dust ere now, And the black battlements shall bear no future blow. Beneath these battlements, within those walls,^ Power dwelt amidst her passions; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls. Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mighty heroes of a longer date." What fierce contests by rival Barons were wit- nessed in the distant ages, along these vine-clad hills ! How steel-clad knights flashed over bloody 222 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. fields, and shining spears were waved in triumph over the prostrate forms of fallen foes ! " In their baronial feuds and single fields, What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! And love, which lent a blazon to their shields, With emblems well devised by amorous pride, Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; And many a tower for some fair mischief won, Saw the discolor'd Rhine beneath its ruin run." Yonder is the Castle of Drachenfels, crownins: the highest summit of the "seven mountains. ^^ It was rebuilt by the Archbishop of Cologne in the 12th century. '' The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o'er the wide and winding Khine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine, And hills all rich with blossom'd trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, And scattered cities crowning these. Whose far white walls along them shine." And here^ at the confluence of the Ifosel — " The Pearl of German rivers" — and the Rhine, stands the old historic city of Coblentz. The city is blazing with banners; and the valley of the Rhine echoes this afternoon with the thundering of can- non. King William is paying a visit to the city. The Kaiser has come from Ems, a few miles dis- tant, and the town is as joyously excited as if France had been conquered the second time. This COLBLENZ. BIXGEX. RHINE-LAND SONG. 223 city is strongly fortified ; and the country sur- rounding it is beautiful and picturesque. "Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall, Black with the miner's blast, upon her height Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Kebounding idly on her strength did light; A tower of victory ! from whence the flight Of baffled foes was watched along the plain And on which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain." We are now at Bingen. This town is situated on the left bank of the river, at the influx of the iS"ahe into the Rhine, and at the foot of the Rochus Mountain. Here we rest during the night ; and from the piazza of the "" Hotel Victoria/^ listen to the murmuring waters, and gaze upon the ruins of Castle Klopp. In this Castle Henry IV. was im- prisoned in 1105. How beautiful the scene this lovely evening of the 2nd July ! And how expressive of the feel- ings of a lonely maiden, is this simple Rhine-land song : — " The moon looks down upon the wave, And calmly flows the Rhine, The fisherman now spreads his nets, Beneath the pale moonshine ; I sit within ray silent room, And list the waves' low tone, I cannot mind my spinning wheel, For I am all alone." Perhaps her lover was on the distant battle field. 224 AVANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. Was it of this maiden of BIngen, the dying soldier spake ? Was it to her he sent that tender mes- sage, ere he breathed his life away ? *' There's another, — not a sister ; in the happy days gone by You'd have known her bj the merriment that sparkled in her eye ; Too innocent for coquetry, — too fond for idle scorning, — friend ! I fear the lightest heart makes sometimes heavi- est mourning ! 1 saw the blue Rhine sweep along ; I heard, or seemed to hear. The German songs we used to sing, in chorus sweet and clear ; And her glad blue eyes were on me, as we passed, with friendly talk, Down many a path beloved of yore, and well-remembered walk ! And her little hand lay lightly, confidingly in mine. — But we'll meet no more at Bingen, — loved Bingen on the Ehine." Mentz, was founded by Drusus, step-son of Augustus, in the year 14 B. c. It has a popula- tion of some 50,000, and is strongly fortified. The Cathedral is a stately building. It contains some interesting monuments, which are pointed out and explained to us by the ^^ sexton's " daughter. This maiden speaks three different languages ! — and appears delighted when complimented for her excellent English. Here is the tomb of the '' Sweet Singer." The sculptured marble repre- sents a shrouded coffin, borne upon the shoulders MENTZ. TOMB OF THE SWEET SINGER. 225 of weeping women, and followed by a mournful procession of the " gentler sex." This poet was so beloved for his sweet and tender melodies, that the women whose hearts he won by his purity and pathos, carried him to the tomb, and erected the monument to perpetuate his memory ! In this town Guttenberg lived ; and on one of the prominent streets we find a monument descrip- tive of his labors, and crowned by a statue of this, — the first, — printer. But we must bid the Rhine farewell. Its wind- ing current, and picturesque scenery, have been both a surprise and delight. From Bonn to Mentz, " The river noblj foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round : And peasant girls with deep-blue eyes, And hands which offer early flowers Walk smiling o'er this paradise; Above, the frequent feudal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of'gray, And many a rock which steeply lours, And noble arch in proud decay, Look on this vale of vintage-bowers." But the country invites us, and we must bid this winding stream, and those shining towers a sad farewell. 10 226 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. :^' Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted The stranger would fain linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely contemplation thus might stray : Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu ! There can be no farewell to scene like thine; The mind is color'd by thy every hue ; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! 'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft, — the glories of old days." Weishaden, is a delightful summer resort. The houses are large, and the streets wide and clean. There are a number of beautiful arcades, contain- ing the choicest and costliest fabrics, and the most brilliant ornaments. Crowds of aristocratic Ger- mans are marching along shaded avenues to the mineral springs. These healing waters are warm, and quite palatable ; but they are neither as pungent as the Saratoga '' Hathorn," nor as spark- ling as the ^^ Geyser/^ Frankfort, is an old German town, remarkable for narrow, crooked streets, and houses of strangest structure. What antiquated-looking windows hang over these winding stony pavements ! There are a few large and well-stocked bookstores. And yonder is the " Bourse," where Rothschild rules as king. Around its doors, the ^'long" and ^' short'' FRAISiKFORT. BOURSE. IIAILKOADS. 227 gentlemen are already gathering. They do not appear in the least excited ; but look as calm and bright as this peaceful summer morning. Stocks, we presume, are " steady ;'' and the next quarterly dividends are "assured.^' There has been no " overissue " by the Darmstadt- Aschaffenburg rail- road ; and no "embezzlement" by the Treasurer of the Cottbus-Gorlitz. He simply went "over the line " to visit a sick stepmother, and intends returning from Stuttgart, at a "convenient" season. The traffic on the Deutz-Barmen-Hagen- Soest has been much increased by the " Centen- nial " at Alten Hundern. The "immense'* number of heavy Germans who were carried by weight, has relieved it from "temporary embar- rassment," and placed it in a "sound financial condition." The "equipment" of the Eydt- knahnen-Konigsberg-Bromberg is in " first-class order;" and the " discrepancy '^ in the cash ac- count was due to a "slight mistake^' in charging a certain amount to " construction," instead of to "current expenses." There may be some little anxiety respecting the "actual condition " of the Frauzensfeste-Yillach-Marburg road, but by the skilful management of a few "leading directors," the stockholders will not "eventually" suffer loss. The well-known ability of these gentlemen to "borrow'^ on large interest, assures the owners that the " next quarterly " will be forthcoming. 228 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The large amount of real estate owned by the Regensburg-Schwan'dof-Eger, although '' unpro- ductive '' at present, will in the course of twenty years be a most *' profitable investment." This valuable property consisting of mountains and mines, which cannot be easily stolen, and can only be sold at a great "sacrifice/' is considered by competent judges a good '^permanent" invest- ment. Surely, with such a happy and " prosper- ous '* state of affairs reported in the editorial columns of the '^ Blatherskite,^' and other ^' trust- worthy " journals who have just received their in- formation from "headquarters," the "investing public" should neither be "alarmed," nor " scared " by the deep growling of German "bears." And hence the calmness, and serenity, of these phlegmatic financiers. A few of the streets in Frankfort are straight and wide ; there are some very pleasant pro- menades, and many stately buildings. Here Goethe was born in 1749 ; and a beautiful monu- ment to his memory stands quite conspicuous on a leading thoroughfare. Darmstadt, is visited in journeying to Worms. The Ducal Palace, surrounded by groves and gardens, and guarded by watchful soldiers, is the charming residence of a local prince. Ludwig's monument challenges inspection. The streets are, — many of them, — wide and treeless. LUTKER. DIET OF WORMS. 229 Worms, is associated with the name of Luther. In this town was held the celebrated "Diet/' before which this reformer appeared. This Diet was, in accordance with the '' Golden Bull '^ of Pope Leo, convoked to meet at Worms on the 6th of January 152L This "solemn" assemblage was composed of "electors, dukes, archbishops, landgraves, margraves, counts, bishops, barons;" and the ^'ambassadors " of the kings of Christen- dom. Some of these distinguished men came to Worms, as warriors march to a scene of strife. Philip of Hesse, enters the town surrounded by 600 horsemen ! Charles Y. by the ^' grace of God Emperor elect of the Romans, always august, King of Spain, of the Two Sicilies, of Jerusalem, of Hungary, of Dalmatia and of Croatia, Arch- duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundy, Count of Hapsburg, of Flanders, and of the Tyrol,'^ presided over the deliberations of the Diet. And before this august body Luther was commanded to ap- pear. What would be his fate none but the Om- niscient knew. His friends remonstrated ; they urged him to remain away lest his life should be forfeited. But this brave man responded to the tender appeals of the people of Eisenach in the following language: — " Though they should kindle a fire all the way from Worms to Wittemberg, the flames of which reached to heaven, I would walk 230 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. through it in the name of the Lord ; I would ap- pear before them ; I would enter the jaws of this behemoth, and break his teeth, confessing the Lord Jesus Christ." To the entreaties of dear friends at Frankfort, he replies, " but Christ lives, and I shall enter Worms in despite of all the gates of hell." Before he arrived at Worms, a special messenger sent by the chaplain, urges him not to enter ; but Luther sends back the answer : — '^ Go and tell your master, that even should there be as many devils in Worms as tiles on the housetops, still I would enter it V What sublime courage had this humble monk, who was regarded by his friends as marching to martyrdom ! And with what interest we look upon the ruins of the old building, in which Luther made his defence in presence of that august assemblage. And here are the old tiled houses, that have watched the flight of centuries, and sheltered the ^'delegates to this German General Assembly.'' Luther's Monument, is well conceived, and ad- mirably executed. The substructure is of granite, 42 feet on each side. Three sides are inclosed by battlemented walls, of polished syenite, three and five feet high. At the four corners, on pedestals eight feQt high, are the statues of Melancthon, Reuchlin, Frederick the Wise, and Philip the Magnani- HEIDELBERG. 231 mous. On the inner faces of the battlements, are the arms of the 24 cities which fought for the Re- formation. In the centre of this enclosure are four pillars, on which are the statues of Wicliffe, Huss, Waldus, and Savonarola ; while on a pedes- tal 28 feet high, in the centre of this inner group, stands the bronze statue of Luther, — nearly twelve feet in height. In front we read the words : " Here I stand. I cannot retract. God help me, Amen V^ There are a number of finely executed bas-reliefs illustrating memorable scenes in the life of the Reformer. The inhabitants of Worms look with pride upon this noble monument; and the " guardian " of the premises, points out the various ornamentations with a sparkling eye. Heidelberg, — between the hills, — is a charming town. Such beautiful avenues, shaded by stately trees ! What a place for meditation, — or the quiet perusal of the classic page ! If we had not already '^completed our education," the beauties of the place would tempt us to matriculate. But to make it still '^more complete," we will this morn- ing '^go through" a German university. The buildings are old and venerable ; the recitation rooms somewhat dingy ; but the ^' boys " — 42 of whom are Americans, — seem bright and cheerful. We listen to some lectures ; learn something re- specting the methods of instruction ; and are 232 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. vigorously '' stamped/' because we slip away be- fore the recitation closes. In the wide paved market-place the goods for ^'sale," are arranged in parallel lines; and the anxious purchasers march up and down between these lineSj picking from the pavement the articles required, and paying if possible the *^ lowest prices." And these articles vary in size, from a fresh egg, to a newly skinned ox. The old Castle of Heidelberg overlooks the town, and by its posi- tion and architecture, constitutes one of the special attractions. Baden-Baden, — a fashionable summer resort, — is in some respects the most attractive, and allur- ing little city w^e have thus far visited. It is situated in " one of those fair vales by nature formed to please,'' through which, a swift shallow stream flowing, ^^ makes sweet music with the enameled stones." Here is the great gambling palace, Avhere in former days, kingdoms were lost and won. Gam- bling is now prohibited by law, but the palace is open, and may be quietly inspected. A tagesharte is purchased for 18 kreutzers, which admits to the Conversationhause, the Trinkhalle, the Spiel- zimmer, and affords the privilege of a Promenade- stUle, after we are tired marching through the Gebiinde. Lest in our ignorance we might make a BADEN-BADEX. GRAND SALOON. 233 mistake, this card informs us that ^^Zum Besuch der Reunions — Balle, Klintstler-Concerte, Sonstiger besonderer Veranstaltungen uud Festlichkeiten, aussergewohnlicher Reunions und Bals pares berechtigt diese Karte nicht.'^ Thus instructed, we enter the grand hall. In this room, kings and princes formerly gambled. The floors are of oak, and smooth as polished marble. Large mirrors in gilt and elaborately carved frames, reach from the ceiling to the floor. Magnificent paintings decorate the walls. The ceiling is frescoed in the most sumptuous style. Luxurious couches, and gilded chairs, are artisti- cally arranged in shining groups. Reclining on one of those royal couches, and gazing upon this spacious hall, thus brilliantly ornamented, '' We dare not trust these eyes : They dance in mists, and dazzle with surprise." The most delightful music is discoursed daily, in presence of aristocratic audiences, by famous Ger- man bands. Many wealthy Americans mingle in these scenes, and spend restful days in these shady and fragrant bowers. In leaving for Strassburg, we meet a prominent New York banker, with family and servants, — passengers on the Abyssi- nia, — speeding to this delightful place of rest. Strassburg, is famous for its Cathedral, and its 10* 234 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. clock. The houses five stories high, have an ancient aspect, and by their crooked ranks, point back to the distant ages. How crooked people must have been in the *^ middle ages" to build such streets ! It suffered terribly during the Franco- Prussian war ; and is now occupied by the Ger- man forces. New fortifications girdle the con- quered city; and Krupp cannon thunder along the left bank of the Rhine. Large numbers of the French, have left the city and the surrounding country, since the close of the war ; but equal, or larger numbers of Germans have entered the con- quered territory during the same period. The population is therefore " mixed.'^ But there is no sympathy or fellowship, between the victors and the vanquished. In business, society, amuse- ments, they stand as far apart as possible. The Cathedral is a stately edifice. Hundreds of statues ornament the grand Gothic entrance; and a steeple and spire over 460 feet high, crowns the noble structure. The Cathedral was struck seve- ral times during the bombardment of the city by the Germans, but not seriously damaged. The pious sacristan points out the sacred pictures, that were so singularly preserved, when the walls sur- rounding were riddled with shot and shell. The clock, — placed in one of the corners of the Cathedral, — is a marvelous piece of mechanism. STRASSBURG. THE CLOCK. COSTUMES. 235 The position and motion of the heavenly bodies ; the day of the week, month and year ; and other ^'signs'' among the ^Mieavenly host^^ are most beautifully and strikingly presented. The quar- ters of the hour are struck by figures representing Infancy, Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. The hour is struck by the figure of an old man. At noon each day the scene is novel, and exciting. The figure of an old man steps forward and strikes the hour. The effigy of the Saviour appears and around it march the figures of the twelve apostles. Each apostolic effigy bows when passing the Saviour, as if in adoration, and the Saviour's hand is extended, as if in the act of blessing. But when the old man ceases striking the hour, and as the last apostle has bowed and been blest, a cock appears, flaps his wings vigorously and crows lustily three times ! The Sabbath-day in Strassburg is not religiously observed. In the morning, the places of business are all open; in the afternoon, bands of music parade the streets, and the lager beer gardens are crowded : while in the evening, the open squares are covered with noisy bibbers of wine and beer. The peasant costume is quite picturesque. Both men and women delight in brilliant colors. And how pretty they look when marching gracefully in pairs ! Yonder, sweetly smiling, walks a " fair 236 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. couple/' linked apparently '^ in happy nuptial league/' The man wears leggins tightly but- toned, tightly-fitting and fancy knee-breeches, scar- let-colored vest, swallow-tailed coat, and low- crowned hat. The woman wears neatly embroidered slippers, garments of red, green and blue, and her head is crowned with a rainbow-tinted material of indescribable shape. And with all this " finery,'' there is a simplicity of manners, an absence of pride, that fairly captivates. The scenery along the railroad between Strass- burg and Basle is beautiful. Westward are the Vosges mountains; to the east is the peacefully flowing Rhine ; while through the fertile fields Alsacian peasantry, gaily dressed, toss the hay or gather the corn. Before leaving Germany and visiting Switzer- land, some information may be given respecting the railroad and hotel charges, and the manners and customs of the people. The railroads in Ger- many, are most admirably managed. The stations are guarded by military officers. In the depots are pleasant rooms for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd class pas- sengers. Before the arrival of trains, persons who have purchased tickets, are locked in these rooms, and are not permitted to approach the train until all the passengers stopping at that station have left the cars. Then the doors are opened, and the EAILROADS. HOTELS. CHARGES. 237 various ^'classes" walk to the open cars for which tickets have been purchased. All rushing, — with the consequent disorder, and frequent accidents, — is thus prevented. The order is complete. The Germans smoke so universally, that every car may be called a *' smoking-car.'' And being " smoked out '' of the "• upper class " cars, we ride in the " lower class," where the smoke is not so dense, by reason of ** better circulation." In the 3rd class cars, the partitions separating the com- partments, are only three or four feet high. Pas- sengers in the several compartments freely con- verse, and occasionally pass from one compartment to another. The benches are hard, but more agreeable on a hot day, than padded crimson cushions. Then Ave are under no restraintr We can study character ; take notes ; breathe a purer air; and,— well, — save a little money. One hun- dred miles for $1.20 is not expensive traveling. The hotel charges vary according to time, and place. At Bonn, for the privilege of sleeping in the largest hotel in town, one dollar is paid ; while at Bingen, for supper, bed and breakfast, the charge is $1.50. In Frankfort we sleep snugly between two feather beds on the night of the 2nd of July ! For breakfast, we have bread, butter, coffee or tea, and a little honey, — for which 30 cents is paid. But not being particularly lack- 238 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. ing in sweetness, we exchange the honey for a beefsteak. Hot water is placed upon the table to weaken the tea or coffee. What mirth would be excited, if some American boarding-house man- ager would imitate the example ! The butter is frequently saltless; and rarely is soap found in the bed-chamber. A bougie, or candle, costs 12 cents, and occasionally two of these costly candles are placed upon our table, — tempting us to an ^' illumination.^^ There are no carpets; but the oaken floors are smooth and shining. The hotels in all their arrangements, are models of neatness, and order. The greatest inconvenience arises from the numerous and curious coins that are current in the Empire. Just think of the florins, thalers, marks, kreutzers, silbergrochens, and pfennings that jingle in our pockets, and pity us! CHAPTER XI. SWITZERLAND. BASEL. ZURICH. Basel is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Rhine, and is of great antiquity. It is the first republican city visited since leaving America. It has a population of some 44,000 ; a University founded in 1459 ; an interesting museum and picture gallery ; and a magnificent Protestant Munster. It was in this church edifice that the celebrated '^Council of Basel" was held in 1431. During the sessions of this Council, pope Eugene was deposed; and the 500 ecclesiastics then as- sembled, solemnly declared that " a general Coun- cil is superior to the pope.'^ Here also the ^* Helvetic Confession '^ was composed, in 1530. The city, in its position, political and ecclesiastical history, and Protestant character, is a pleasing in- troduction to the land of the hardy Swiss. In Switzerland there are 22 Cantons united in a Confederacy. The population in 1870 was 2,670- 000; of this number 1,566,000 were Protestant, 239 240 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. and 1^084,665 Roman Catholic. There are four languages, — the German/French, Italian and Ro- mansch, — spoken within the limits of the Con- federacy. *' Of every 1000 souls, 585 are Pro- testant and 411 Roman Catholic. Of every 1000, 702 speak German, 226 French, 55 Italian, and 17 Romansch. Of the 566,000 households of Switzer- land, 465,000 possess landed property. Of 100 square leagues of land, 20 are pasture, 17 forest, 11 arable, 20 meadow, 1 vineyards, and 31 uncul- tivated, or occupied by roads, lakes or dwellings." The scenery between Basel and Zurich is charm- ing and inspiring. The train thunders along the lovely valley of the Aare, and onward past Brugg, where the Reuss, Limmat, and Aare, — three of the principal rivers of Switzerland, — unite their streams, and rush northward to mingle with the Rhine. The joyous groups of quaintly costumed peasants; the neat Swiss cottages surrounded by blooming gardens, and smiling vineyards ; the newly mown meadows and fields of ripening grain ; and the distant hills crowned with waving woods, — how beautiful ! Zurich, is situated on the banks of the green and swiftly flowing Limmat, and by it divided into two parts. It is one of the most flourishing manufacturing towns in Switzerland. It has a LAKE OF ZURICH. THE ALPS. 241 number of schools ; a college ; a botanic garden containing 800 Alpine plants ; and is regarded as the ^Miterary centre of German Switzerland.'^ Here, Zwingle, the great Swiss Reformer, lived and preached. His Greek Bible, with Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting, is preserved in the Town Library. In the Museum, we find models — and some of the materials used in the construction — of the Swiss houses, found imbedded in the peat at Roben- hausen. Arriving in the evening, and selecting the " Hotel et Pension Bellevue du Lac^' as a tem- porary abode, we catch the first glimpse of a Swiss lake. How beautiful in the moonlight is the Lake of Zurich ! And how the young Swiss of both sexes, enjoy floating upon its smooth and shining surface. From our chamber window, we count forty-four little row-boats moving hither and thither over these silvery waters ! And here we sit alone, far from home, looking down upon this scene of love and beauty. But morning comes and behold the distant Alps ! Yonder is the Pfannstock ; the snow-clad Bifertenstock ; and on either side are the lofty glistening peaks of those " everlasting hills.'' How gloriously they shine when illumined by the rising sun ! 212 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. " Above me are the Alps, The palaces of nature, whose vast walls Have pinnacled clouds their snowy scalps, And throned eternity in icy halls Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls The avalanche — the thunderbolt of snow ! All that expands the spirit, yet appals, Gather around these summits, as to show How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave man below." But in order to enjoy a better view of those snow-clad summits, we must journey towards the south. Lucerne, is a pretty little town, charmingly situated on the banks of the green and rapid Reuss, and on the margin of the lake to which it gives its name. The Lake of Lucerne, is regarded as the " Queen of Swiss Lakes.'^ It is cruciform in shape, and is bounded by four of the Swiss cantons : — Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, and Lu- cerne. The length of the lake from Lucerne to riuelen is 25 miles; the distance between the extremities of the two arms 15 miles; the width from one to four miles; and the greatest depth 510 feet. It is surrounded by scenery the most magnificent. The lakes of Killaruey and Scot- land, vanish in the presence of Lucerne. In order to enjoy the beauty of this lake, and better appreciate the grandeur of the scenery, we purchase a ticke':, secure a pleasant position on LAKE OF LUCERNE. TELL. 243 board a lively little Swiss steamer, and sail over the shining waters, with prow pointed towards Fluelen. The ticket for the round trip, — 50 miles, — costs Q6 cents. Just look at those mountain sentinels that guard this enchanted land ! To the right, is the cloud- capped Pilatus over 6,000 feet high, — and pro- mising a bright and happy day. '' If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day ; If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way ; But if his sword he wields, at home you'd better stay. " To the left rises the Kigi,— 5,000 feet. In front the Buochser, the Stanzerhorn, and the Burgen- stock proudly lift their heads. Here, are bald and barren peaks ; yonder, are mountain sides clothed with verdure. On the right are frowning forest- clad hills ; on the left, are shining cottages, bloom- ing gardens, and fruit trees, bearing chestnuts, almonds, figs ! How beautiful, wild and grand ! The village of Gersau, with its broad-roofed cottages, is now in sight. Here once existed the smallest independent State in Europe. The small territory of 8 square miles, and 1,000 inhabitants, — guarded by the Hochfluh and the Vitznauer- stock, — was, during 400 years, an independent State ! Every mountain peak, bubbling spring and sparkling meadow, speaks of the heroic deeds 244 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. of patriotic Swiss. Tell's Chapel, shaded by over- hanging trees, and standing on the margin of the lake is now in sight ; and not far distant is Altorf, where the Swiss liberator aimed at the apple placed upon his son's head, at the command of the tyrant Gessler. The Gitchen (8,000 feet), the Bristen- stock (10,000 feet), the Windgelle (10,400 feet), tower majestically above us. These ^' crags and peaks '^ witnessed both the skill and patriotism, of this mountain chieftain ; and to them, as the ^' guards of liberty,'^ he might with propriety hold out his hands, to show they still were free. " Ye crags, and peaks, I'm with you once again ; I hold to you the hands you first beheld, ' To show they still are free. Again ! O sacred forms, how proud you look! How high you lift your heads into the sky ! How huge, you are ! how mighty, and how free ! Ye guards of liberty I'm with you once again ! — I call to you With all my voice ! — I hold my hands to you To show they still are free — I rush to you As though I could embrace you !" But the ascent of the Rigi must be made, in order to view the Alps at sunrise. The mountain is 5,000 feet high, and the ascent is made by railroad. This mountain road is, in construction and method of operation, similar to the road climbing Mt. Washington. It is 7,755 yards long; the fare to MT. RIGI. ALPINE HORX. SUNRISE. 245 the summit is $1.40; and up and down these slanting heights 50,000 passengers are carried an- nually. The hotel on the mountain is a well-kept establishment, and furnishes an excellent supper and good bed for $1.40. For less comfortable quarters on Mt. Washington we paid $3.00. By special arrangement, the tourists are to be aroused from sleep by the "Alpine Horn.^' And faith- fully and honestly does this Swiss bugler fulfil the terms of the contract. For long ere Aurora with "• rosy finger opens the portals of the East,'' — long before " the moon began to nod, her eyes becoming dim,'' — did the Alpine horn begin to " blow." And what a '' blower !" It would seem that all the wind sporting around the lofty heights of the Rigi was marching through that horn ! There is, of course, great excitement. The sleep- ers are quickly aroused. Garments are hastily snatched, and shivering tourists quickly clad. A rush is made to the highest point; guide books are opened ; opera glasses properly adjusted, — and then, the babble begins. Rigi this morning is a very tower of Babel. Men and women, repre- senting all the world, — and some of them ^' the rest of mankind," — are either scolding the '^ bu- gler," or censuring the absent sun for tardiness in rising, or chattering with their teeth. But the sun appears : and the scene is inspiring. 246 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. We have climbed the Alleghenies and the Berk- shire hills ; stood upon the summits of the Green and White mountains; but never witnessed such beauty, grandeur and sublimity combined, as the rising sun now reveals. The eye sweeps a circuit of 300 miles ! Thirteen Swiss lakes sparkle in the sun- light ! What cities, rivers, w^oods, meadows, val- leys, plains, forests, emerge from the darkness, and greet the coming day ! But look eastward. What beacon lights are being kindled along the snow-clad Alps ! From North to South, — along the East, — a range of mountains 120 miles in length stands revealed. And along this mountain path 132 >peaks, from 5,000 to 13,000 feet in height, are clearly visible. 132 peaks shining along a snowy pathway of 120 miles ! The beacon lights kindled to herald the fall of the Trojan city, never flashed so quickly from Troy to Argos, as those Alpine heights announce the coming of the king of day. Mont Sentis, in the far East, tells it to the Glarnish; and theGlarnish repeats it to theTodi; and the Todi flashes it to the Jungfrau ; and the radiant snowy Jungfrau, — 13,000 feet high, — beams upon the distant West, and heralds the rising sun ! Many are the exclamations of surprise and delight, as peak after peak glows and glitters, and lake after lake sparkles and shines. But like Peter, SWISS CHALETS. ALPINE SONGS. 247 James, and John, we must descend from this mount of transfiguration. And in order that we may better study the manners and habits of the Swiss, we walk from the summit to the base of the Eigi. Among the Swiss mountains the cattle are led up the hillsides in the early spring, and do not return until late in the Fall. Every cow has a bell attached; and the ringing and jingling of these scores of bells, makes the mountain air mu- sical. This bright, beautiful morning we listen " To the tintinnabulation that so musically wells, From the bells, bells, bells, bells, , From the jingling and the tinkling of the bells." Here and there, like birds' nests in the clefts of the rocks, are the chalets of the herdsmen. Along those steep declivities, the Swiss peasant, assisted by an iron-pointed Alpenstock and spiked shoes, is climbing. On his back he carries a long, shal- low basket, in which are placed the milk-pails. He moves from height to height until the cows are milked, and then slowly descends to his mountain home. Here are maidens moving with heavy burdens where goats might fear to climb. They are singing strange melodies, and their happy voices are sweetly ringing through these wild 248 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. ravines. Alpine horns sound from peak to peak along this mountain range, — herdsman answering herdsman. We enter a Swiss cottage, and ask for some milk. The floor is "paved with stone, — per- haps to prevent it from sliding down the hill. The woman talks pleasantly ; is very polite ; and pre- sents the thirsty tourist with such an excellent ar- ticle. This milk has never tasted of the mountain stream, although that stream dances merrily past the door-way. Thus refreshed we press down the hill to Yitznau. The scenes along this morning's pathway, recall some beautiful passages of descrip- tive poetry. " When hums the mountain bee in May's glad ear, And emerald isles to spot the heights appear, When shouts and lowing herds the valley fill, And louder torrents stem the noon-tide hill, When fragrant scents beneath the enchanted tread Spring up, his choicest wealth around him spread. The pastoral Swiss begins the cliff to scale. To silence leaving the deserted vale. Mounts where the verdure leads, from stage to stage, And pastures on, as in the patriarchs' age ; O'er loftier heights serene and still they go, And hear the rattling thunder far below— I see him up the midway cliff', he creeps To where a scanty knot of verdure peeps ; Thence down the steep a pile of grass he throws, The fodder of his herds in winter snows. An idle voice the Sabbath region fills, Of deep that calls to deep across the hills : LION OF LUCERNE. SKELETON OF ST. KLAUS. 249 Broke only by the melanclioly sound Of drowsy bells forever tinkling round." After glancing at the " Lion of Lucerne/^ — sculptured by Thorvaldsen out of the sandstone rock, and dedicated to the memory of the Swiss soldiers who were slain in Paris in 1792, — we charter a Swiss "Diligence/' and proceed to Briens, over the Briinig Pass. The distance is 17 miles, and the fare $2.20. Our coach is drawn by a lively pair of horses ; the roads are broad, hard and smooth; and the scenery, — mountains, lakes, Swiss cottages, foaming cataracts and flash- ing cascades, — is beautiful. In the village of Sachseln on the east bank of Lake Sarnen, we visit St. Nikolaus, or St. Klaus. In 1487 this venerable man died; and for his piety and good works he was quickly canonized. His skeleton is carefully preserved in the village church, and exhibited to all those who pay a small admission fee. Here also may be seen the home- spun garments worn by this sainted Swiss. It is said that during the 20 years of his hermit life, he subsisted upon the sacred elements, of which he partook monthly. And in this old church the skeleton and the garments, have been sacredly kept the past 400 years ! As we look upon these fleshless bones, glittering'with cheap ornaments, 11 250 WANDEEIKGS IN EUROPE. we sympathize with all those pious Swiss who may yet be ^' canonized/^ Brienz, is a village of wooden houses, situated at the foot of the Brienzer Grat, — over 7,000 feet high, — and on the margin of lake Briens. This town is famous for its wood carving. Some 600 of the inhabitants are carvers in wood. A visit is paid to a dozen of these private manufactories. By purchasing some trifling articles, we are per- mitted to sit and watch the men and women at work. These wild mountain artists are very gentle, and exceedingly kind, when the slightest interest is manifested in their handiwork. And what beautiful toys are made in tliese hum- ble Swiss homes : what exquisite workmanship comes from the hands of these poor rustic Swiss peasants ! One old artist quickly responds to our expressions of kindly feeling, by carving our name on a rule we purchase, as a memorial of our visit. Part of the 9tli day of July is spent in rowing and fishing upon lake Brienz. A boat is chartered ; rod, line, hook, and bait provided ; and we ^Maunch into the deep.'' But after the most tempting, offers of a '^crooked hook baited with a vile earth worm," these foolish Swiss fish will not bite. And " having toiled " until twilight, we return to the '' Hotel and Pension de FOurs," having '^ taken nothing/' — worthy of being recorded. BRILLIANT Ci^SCADES. ALPINE STOEM. 251 The Giesbach Falls, is formed of seven cascades that leap and foam several hundred feet along the mountain side. In the summer evenings these falls are brilliantly illuminated. Upon a signal being given, either by the ringing of a bell, or the flight of a rocket, scores of blazing red white and green lights flash along the cascades, coloring the foaming falling waters, and exciting the greatest enthusiasm among the admiring tourists. Interlahen, situated between the lakes, — lake Brienz and lake Thun, — is a popular summer resort. Here w^e find the prettiest Swiss cottages in Switzerland. Such is the fineness of material, elegance of finish and beauty of decoration, that they look more like large toys than human habita- tions. From Interlaken to Bern, we are carried by railroad and steamboat. While sailing over lake Thun, a storm rages amid the lofty Alps, and the scene from the deck of our steamer is magni- ficent. The ^'Bernese Oberlaud," numbering 70 Alpine peaks, rises grandly beyond the lake. Thirty of these snow-clad mountains range from 10,000 to 13,000 feet in height. And how the loud thunder rolls, and shining showers march along those Alpine heights ! The lightning, nimble- footed, leaps from the Wetterhorner to the Fin- steraarh, from the Finsteraarh to the Bllimlisalp, and encircles the snowy summits of the Monch 252 WANDEIilNGS IN EUROPE. and Jiingfrau, with bands of flashing fire ! The scene is sublime. We have never witnessed such a war of the elements, upon a battle-field so grand. What revelations of the power of the Almighty are before us ! '^ He bowed the heavens also, and came down, and darkness was under his feet. He did fly upon the wings of the wind : the Lord also thundered in the heavens, and the Highest gave his voice i yea he sent out his arrows and scattered them : and he shot out lightnings, and discomfited them." " Far along, From peak to peak, the rattling crags among Leaps the live thunder ! Not from one lone cloud, But every mountain now hath found a tongue, And Jura answers, through her misty shroud, Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud !" Berrif is beautifully located on the banks of the Aare and in view of the Bernese Oberland. The houses are very quaint-looking structures • and the streets rejoice in the most classic names. The principal street is one mile in length, and is labeled the Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kramgasse, and Ge* richtigkeitsgasse ! Now if all the streets in Bern are as "gasse" as this one, then indeed the Bernese Swiss must be very talkative people. There are some costly edifices in the Swiss capital. The Federal Council Hall, in which the BERN. BARRY AND THE BEARS. 253 sessions of the two great national Councils are held, is quite conspicuous. The debates are con- ducted in the German, French, and Italian lan- guages; and all the rulings and resolutions, must be announced in French and German. The Cathedral is a beautiful building, — elaborately and tastefully ornamented. In the Library, "Prescott's Histories" in English, and "Paley" in German, stand side by side. The university is attended by about 200 students. The Museum contains some objects of interest. Here, the St. Bernard dog ^^ Barry" is exhibited. This dog during his earthly career along the snowy summits of St. Bernard, saved the lives '^of 15 persons."" And like the canonized St. Nikolaus, Barry is "preserved" for his '' good works." Here also is a magnificent specimen of crystal from the Tiefengletschar, weighing 270 lbs. The Bears are highly favored by the Bernese. On the right bank of the Aare, in the Barengraben, Bruin is kept at the public expense. And the antics of these " privileged characters,' ' are as amusing on the banks of tlie Aare, as on the banks of the Schuylkill. The specimens we laugh at this afternoon are large, and in excellent humor. The Clock Tower, standing on the Kramgasse, is an object of interest to all visitors. At the striking of the hours, two wooden bears march round ; a 254 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. wooden cock crows ; a wooden man turns an hour glass ; and a stone figure strikes the hour on the bell. The scene is amusing, and is witnessed by scores of curiously-costumed Swiss. On our journey to Lausanne, we visit Frie- burg. In the Church of St. Nicholas may be heard one of the finest organs in Europe. It boasts of 67 stops and 7,800 pipes. For the small sum of 20 cents we are permitted to enter the Cathedral, and listen to a " performance.'^ Although the edifice is well filled, the silence is profound, — for who could move the lip or tongue when this organ speaks? Alpine storms thunder along the aisles, and shake the building ; and melodies, tender and pathetic, moisten the eye with tears. Could that '^ vox humana ^' be any other than a human voice ? Lausanne surprises us. The site on the ter- raced slopes of Mount Jorat is so commanding, and the view so magnificent. On the right, — in the distance,~are the Jura Mountains, separating Switzerland and France ; on the left, are the Savoy Hills and Valley of the Rhone; in front, gleam- ing for more than 30 miles, *' Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect, in each trace Its clear depth yields of their fair height and hue." At Ouchy, we embark for Geneva. Yonder LAKE LEMAN. CASTLE OF CHILLOX. 255 along the shining eastern shore is the ^^ Castle of Chillon:'^ '' Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls; A thousand feet in depth below Its massy waters meet and flow ; Thus much the fathom line was sent From Chillon's snow-white battlement, "Which round about the wave enthrals." Here Bonnivard was imprisoned in 1530, by the Duke of Savoy. "Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod, Until his very steps have left a trace Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, By Bonnivard ! — May none those marks efface ! For they appeal from tyranny to God." Lake Leman, or Geneva, is shaped like a half- moon. It is 55 miles in leno^th alono; the north bank ; 48 miles along the south bank ; and is from IJ to 9 miles wide. As it differs from lakes Zurich and Lucerne in form, and the character of the scenery by which it is surrounded, so it differs from these lakes in color. Zurich and Lucerne are of a pale green color, Geneva is of a deep blue. The banks are fringed with the walnut, magnolia, cedar of Lebanon, and vine. And here and there over the shining waters, float Swiss craft with lateen or "goose-wings" sail. The air this after- noon is balmy; the sky is bright; and the excur- 256 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. sion from Ouchy to Geneva, is delightful and refreshing. Geneva^ is situated on the banks of the river Ehone, — by which it is divided into two parts, — and on the margin of lake Leman. Six bridges span the swiftly flowing Rhone, and reunite the divided city. The population is nearly 50,000. Along the quays there are handsome houses, mag- nificent hotels, and charming little lawns furnished with seats, and '^shaded with branching trees." The view from the Quai du Montblanc is grand. Yonder, lifting his snowy head 16,000 feet high, stands the monarch of the Alps, — the glorious Mont Blanc! Just 50 miles to this shining mountain ; and yet how near it seems to be ! *' Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains; They crowned him long ago On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, With a diadem of snow. Around his waist are forests braced The avalanche in his hand ; But ere it fall, that thundering ball Must pause for my command." Geneva, from its situation, and surroundings, is a popular resort. The English and Americans love to linger here. Hundreds of aristocratic tour- ists are either strolling through the streets, loung- ing in the Jardin Anglais, or visiting the bril- liant shops that adorn the leading thoroughfares. GENEVA. Calvin's catiiedeal. 257 The principal industry is watchmaking. 1 00,000 watches are made and sold every year. We are conducted through one of the largest manufactur- ing establishments by a member of the firm, who exhibits all the parts, and explains all the pro- cesses necessary in the construction of a watch. And the stores and windows so tastefully orna- mented with ^'warranted timekeepers" of all sizes, materials, and prices, tempt ns to exchange our ugly German coins for pretty Swiss watches. Geneva was the home of Calvin. Here he lived, and here he died in 1564. Climbing the hill, we visit the Cathedral in which he so eloquently preached; and seated in a chair once used by the great Reformer, reflect upon his character, labors, and system of theology. What an amount of work was accomplished by this austere man : — preaching daily, lecturing two or three times a week,foundingand superintending schools of learn- ing, legislating for Geneva, corresponding with eminent men on subjects of gravest interest that required the closest study, and writing those learned commentaries that have made his name immortal ! In labors and in trials, how much like the great apostle, of whose divinely inspired system of theo- logy he is the admired expounder ! He died at the age of 56, was buried in Geneva, but his resting place is not known, — and no monu- 11* 258 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. ment seeks to perpetuate his memory. Pie re- quested that no monument should be erected. In the Public Library are exhibited the autographs of Calvin, Rousseau, and other Genevese celebri- ties. Here also we find portraits of Calvin, Tur- retin, Coligny, Beza, Erasmus and Grotius. The Sabbath-day is much more religiously ob- served in Geneva, than in the German towns through which we have passed. And the services in some of the churches are exceedingly interesting and instructive. This afternoon at the close of the service, a child is baptized. In the front pews are seated father, mother, and all the family. When the child is presented to the minister, the members of the family stand ; the mother pours from a vial the baptismal water into the minister's open hand; and as the baptismal name is being pronounced, the entire congregation rise, as if to welcome "the little stranger'' to the "communion of saints." This is the most expressive, and beautiful baptis- mal service we have ever witnessed. From Geneva to Mont Blanc, and the Valley of Chamouny, is 50 miles. Selecting from our valise a few " changes '' of raiment, and bracing them in a neat Genevese strap, we purchase a ticket, take a seat with the driver and roll on to Chamouny. The road is broad and smooth ; the scenery picturesque : and the atmosphere exhila- GRAND DRIVE TO MT. BLAXC. 259 rating. Through the valley of the Arva ; around the mountains of Savoy ; in sight of castle ruins and flashing cascades; and over lovely meadows breathing perfume, our chariot rolls. How these horses love to gallop ; and how grandly the Dili- gence sw^ays and thunders behind their flying feet ! Here is the Breson 6,000 feet high ; and yonder the Aiguilles de Varens, 9,000 feet above the level of the sea. Down along these mountains cascades leap 1000 feet; and swerved by passing winds, they look like shining serpents scaling the lofty heights. At St. Martin's the shining peaks of Mont Blanc suddenly appear. The mountain is 12 miles dis- tant, but really seems to overshadow us. How lofty, grand, and dazzling, are those snow-clad summits ! We are now in the lovely valley of Chamouny ; and for this enjoyable ride of 50 miles pay $4.20. The Valley of Chamouny, is 15 miles long, and nearly one mile wide. It is a verdant vale. Al- pine flowers bloom, and corn grows along the line of perpetual snow. Streams of purest ice water rush from melting glaciers, and swell the foaming Arva. A dozen snow-clad peaks, ranging from 10,000 to 16,000 feet high, glitter in the sunlight. From the village of Chamouny, tourists make the ascent of Mont Blanc. It was ascended for the 260 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. first time in 1786. In fine weather, and under the leadership of experienced guides, it may be climbed in safety ; but if the weather be cloudy or stormy, serious and sometimes fatal accidents be- fall the explorers. During 1870 eleven persons perished in a storm ! Guides charge $20 to make this mountain excursion. The " 3fer de Glace,'^ is, after Mont Blanc, the principal attraction. To view this /^Sea of Ice," we must climb on mule-back to the Montanvert, — 6000 feet high. We hire a guide and mule for the entire day, — paying $6.50 for the services of both, ■ — and at 5 o'clock on the morning of July 16th, lift our eyes up to those shining hills. The path crosses the track of avalanches ; — and how grand the scene when the summit is reached! Three glaciers, that fill the highest gorges in the Mont Blanc chain of mountains, unite in the form of a surging stream of ice, 12 miles long and a quar- ter of a mile wide. And there are the frozen bil- lows ! Miles above us are two mountain peaks, each over 10,000 feet high ; and between them, — as through a shining gateway, — this stream of swelling, motionless, icy waves^ majestically rolls! The scene is sublime, awful ; it cannot be de- scribed. "Hast thou a charm to stay the morning star In his steep course? So long he seems to pause CROSSING THE SEA OF ICE. 261 On thy bald, awful head, O sovran Blanc ! The Arve and Arveiron at thy base Rave ceaselessly ; but thou, most awful Form ! Risest from forth thy silent sea of pines How silently ! "Who filled thy countenance with rosy light ? Who made thee parent of perpetual streams ? And you, ye five wild torrents, fiercely glad ! Who gave you your invulnerable life, Your strength, your speed, your fury, and your joy, Unceasing tliunder and eternal foam ? And who commanded (and the silence came), Here let the billows stifien and have rest ? Ye ice-falls ! ye that from the mountain's brow Adown enormous ravines slope amain, — Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice, And stopt at once amid their maddest plunge ! Motionless torrents ! silent cataracts ! Who made you glorious as the gates of Heaven ? God ! let the torrents, like a shout of nations. Answer ! and let the ice-plains echo, God ! God ! sing, ye meadow-streams, with gladsome voice ! Ye pine-groves, with your soft and soul-like sounds ! And they too have a voice, yon piles of snow, And in their perilous fall shall thunder, God ! Ye living flowers that skirt the eternal frost! Ye wild goats sporting round the eagle's nest ! Ye eagles, playmates of the mountain storm I Ye signs and wonders of the elements. Utter forth God, and fill the hills with praise ! Thou, too, hoar Mount! Rise, O, ever rise, Rise like a cloud of incense from the Earth ! " Yonder is the Chapeau, but how shall we reach 262 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. it ? By crossing this sea of ice ! Oar guide, a sure-footed Alpine climber, leads the way. Occa- sionally our slipping feet discourage us, and we " balance'^ as gracefully as possible on the edge of an iceberg. Here, is a crevasse gaping wide to the depth of 200 feet; and we listen to the murnuir- ings of a chilly stream that, — far below, — courses along its icy path. In the midst of our perplexi- ties, and bewilderments, even w^hen we are com- pelled to wait until the axe cuts a resting place for the foot, our cheerful guide shouts in French, ^' it is very easy, Sir !" — and sliding forward we reach the other shore. But we would not recross those icy billows, for one hundred francs ! Maiiignyj lies in the Rhone Valley, beyond the Tete Noire, some 25 miles from Chamouny. The people along the route are stunted in growth, of sallow complexion, and numbers of them afflicted with the goitre. The children are very polite. Boys and girls have great respect for strangers ; and bowing most gracefully, greet us in French with the pleasing salutation, — ^' Good day, Sir!^' Might not some of these Alpine lads be imported to teach our city youngsters '^manners?" And the humble priests are ^^ affect ion ed one to another with brotherly love;" for when they meet along the wayside, they bow, and kiss each other on both cheeks ! Just think of rival preachers, or pulpit KISSIXG PKIESTS. ALPINE MULE. 263 " stars/^ whose orbits of pastoral duties circle through '■'■ neighboring folds/' greeting each other in their pious incursions '^ with a holy kiss " ! The little churches are surrounded by stout stone walls, to protect them from the thundering avalanche. Our four-footed conveyance possesses all the characteristic traits, and excellent qualities of a thorough-bred mule. That gentleness and docil- ity; that yielding and submissive disposition ; that readiness to walk or gallop, which so dis- tinguishes this pliant species of quadruped, find a beautiful illustration in our fiery steed. With the English language he is not familiar ; and his edu- cation in French has been ^' sadly neglected. '^ All spurring with the heel ; all sturdy strokes of the umbrella ; all the appeals for swifter motion, are utterly disregarded. Then in form and movement, this animal is a novelty among quadrupeds, — pos- sessing such a low neck, such a high back, and de- lighting in such a stylish swing! In descending mountains, graceful horsemanship is, under the cir- cumstances, quite difficult. And lest the yielding of crupper, or breaking of stirrups, should precipi- tate us 1000 feet, and suddenly end our " wander- ings, '^ we occasionally dismount. Then, it is so pleasant to see the owner of the animal ride at our expense ! Accidents along those mountain roads are of 264 WANDERINGS IX EUROPE. frequent occurrence. Two heavily laden wagons have just been upset in rounding a narrow curve. One of the wagons is completely shattered ; the barrels are sent rolling along the hillside ; and the mule, — obedient to the laws of gravitation, — after numerous hurried revolutions, reclines on his back, and with *^ burnished hooves" beckons to the sun. This animal is so accustomed to " back up," that no influence except that of gravitation can compel him to ^^ back down." How many mules there are walking through life, — on two legs ! Martigny, is the starting point for an excursion over the '' Great St. Bernard J' The ascent is fraught with danger, but we are determined to visit the monks and dogs, or *^ die in the attempt." Our motto is " Excelsior !" The road climbs zig- zag along the mountain, and our Diligence moves slowly. The hillside is terraced, and the poor peasantry are toiling hard to secure a scanty sup- ply of food for man and beast. Here, we behold a new system of irrigation. Swollen torrents rush down from the snow-clad summits. At certain points, artificial streams branching from these tor- rent-stems, flash through and over those terraced heights, making them bloom '^ and blossom as the rose." The houses are built of stone ; have stony stairways ; small doors and small windows. The roofs are covered with large stone slabs, to protect them from the whirling vvinds. CLIMBING THE ST. BERNARD. 265 At Bourg St. Pierre, the Diligence route ends ; and up to the Hospice, — four miles distant, — we travel "on foot." The St. Bernard Pass, was climbed by Napoleon in May, 1800. The moun- tain was then covered with snow. The guns were placed on sledges, and dragged by soldiers over the Pass. And for each cannon pulled through ice and snow, Napoleon paid his warriors $240. As we climb the scenery becomes wild. The road has now dwindled to a crooked pathway, and the last human habitation is passed. On a former and memorable occasion, another young man pro- ceeded along this same bleak and barren moun- tain, in the afternoon. " The shades of night were falling fast, As through an Alpine village passed A youth, who bore, 'mid snow and ice, A banner with the strange device, 'Excelsior!'" This village has just been passed; but we have no banner, except a faded umbrella; and this is not ornamented with a solitary '' device.'^ " ' Try not the pass ! ' the old man said ; ' Dark lowers the tempest overhead, The roaring torrent is deep and wide ! ' And loud the clarion voice replied, ' Excelsior ! ' " But the old man of sallow complexion and baggy 266 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. trousers, saluted at the " Bourg,'^ gave no such in- timation of the coming storm. " ' O stay,' the maiden said, 'and rest Thy weary head upon this breast ! ' A tear stood in his bright blue eye, But still he answered with a sigh, ' Excelsior ! ' " The venerable maiden passed on the wayside, was too busily engaged in attempting to shear a big black sheepj to bestow the slightest attention upon the lonely traveler. Her strength was taxed to the utmost, in preserving this kicking quadruped in an inverted position. And in our '' blue eye" no "tear stood/' while we smiled at the amusing spectacle. But the storm is coming; and the gathering clouds, pushing the daylight down the valley, sud- denly shroud the shining peaks in gloom and darkness. The rain now falls in floods ; and the swollen streams rush madly through the glen. Boots and umbrella, have lost their water-proof qualities, and we walk ankle-deep in water, along the steep ascent. The " Valley of Death" opens before us. Just here, the accidents are most fre- quent and disastrous. Seven persons were killed on this spot. Close to the path stands the old ^' Morgue." And there, lie the bleaching bones of unfortunate travelers, who perished in the blind- THE VALLEY OF DEATH. MONKS. 267 ing suow storm, or were crushed to death beneath the thundering avalanche ! The surrounding scene is wild and dark : and we shudder at the sight of these uiiburied remains, and tremble lest a similar fate should reward our ambitious efforts. The words of the poet are well remembered : — " At break of day, as heavenward The pious monks of Saint Bernard Uttered the oft-repeated prayer, A voice cried through the startled air, ' Excelsior ! ' A traveller, by the faithful hound, Half-buried in the snow was found ; There in the twilight cold and gray, Lifeless, but beautiful, he lay ! " Chilled by the biting blasts, yet inspired by the hope of reaching the summit in safety, we press forward over ice and snow, and upward through the gloomy gorge and " valley of death," until the " Hospice^' is reached. The monks and the dogs receive us kindly, — the former by a kind shake of the hand, the latter by a joyous wagging of bushy tails: we are immediately conducted to a comfortable room, and prompt at- tention paid to our numerous wants. Having made a hasty " toilet," placed our weary feet in a pair of monk's soft slippers, and partaken of a re- freshing meal, we sit before a blazing fire and take a few " notes." 268 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The Hosjy'ice of St. Bernard, is the Iiighest win- ter habitation in the Alps. The latitude is 45° north, and the altitude is over 8000 feet. It was founded in the year 962, by the pious monk whose nartie it bears, as a refuge for the numerous tra- velers crossing the Alps. The '^ brotherhood '' consists of 10 to 15 Augustinian monks, and 7 at- tendants. There are two large buildings : one of these contains the cells of the monks, and rooms with 80 beds for the accommodation of the better class of travelers ; the other is used as a granary, and lodging for the poorer classes who are con- tinually passing between France, Switzerland, and Italy. The expenses of the establishment amount to about $8,000 a year ; and are paid from subsi- dies granted by the French and Italian govern- ments, collections made in Switzerland, and the gifts of travelers. About 20,000 persons are an- nually accommodated ; no charge is made for food or lodging; but a box in the chapel marked ^' Pour Pauvre,'' invites the kindly disposed to remember "the poor." The mean temperature at the Hospice is 30° ; the large rooms are heated throughout the whole year ; and 20 horses are employed during July, August, and September, in transporting fuel from a valley 12 miles distant. The reception room is neatly furnished: on the HOSPICE OF ST. BERNARD. 269 walls liaiig pictures representing Napoleon cross- ing the Alps ; Jesus teaching ; the Apostles sepa- rating ; Timothy ; and St. Agnes. The Library is large, admirably arranged, and contains a num- ber of valuable works on Natural and Moral Philosophy and Theology, in the French and Ger- man languages. It has also a picture of Washing- ton presented by an American tourist. In the Museum are a number of photographs represent- ing the "Bernard dogs'' seeking for the dead, or releasing the living from their chilly abode, in the " beautiful " yet terrible snow. The little church is a perfect gem ; the organ is sweet-toned ; and the early morning services are conducted with great pomp and ceremony by these pious eccle- siastics. The services this morning are attended by all the poor wayfarers, who have been fur- nished with lodging for the night. And most reverentially do they bow before the altar, which, to their simple and superstitious minds, presents a symbol of the presence of that merciful Saviour w^ho said, '' blessed be ye poor, for yours is the kingdom of God." The Morgue, situated near the Hospice, is a de- pository for the bodies of persons who have perished in the snow ; and the extreme cold so retards de- composition, that the features of the dead are recog- nizable years after death. The dogs accompany 270 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. US in a ramble around the buildings, and show a perfect willingness to climb the snowy heights, now made so resplendent by the rising sun. In conversing with guests the monks speak only French ; but they are exceedingly polite, and quite communicative. After a service of 15 years in this cold climate, subject to the labors and excitements incident to their perilous position, they are compelled to go down the valley, and spend the remaining years in Martigny. After dropping our contribution in the box, and taking leave of these kind friends whose appearance and manners we admire, and whose self-denying and heroic labors are warmly appreciated, we march forth "solitary and alone'' to the conquest of Italy. CHAPTER XII. ITALY. — HOSPICE TO ROME. The route, leads us down the hillside, by a zig- zag path, for several miles; then conducts us, along a good mountain road, to Aosta. AVith ^^ strap " and map in one hand, umbrella and guide book in the other, we press down the mountain, merry as a lark. On the roadside are numerous shrines, in which are placed images of the " virgin and child/' garlanded with flowers. " By cells whose image, trembling as he prays, Awe-struck, the kneeling peasant scarce surveys." Little churches are erected in all the villao^es ; the peasants are gathering the harvest ; men and women bearing burdens beneath which an ox might bend, are passing along the dizzy heights ; maidens in brilliant costume, and crowned with wide-brimmed hats, are gathering the short grass in snow-white sheets, and carrying it down the hillsides for winter fodder ; sturdy men with large lustrous eyes, black bushy beard, and '^ raven locks,^' are journeying along the winding roads ; 271 272 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. mountain streams, fresh from icy fountains, leap joyously from rock to rock, brightly flashing in their downward flight; while soft breezes laden with delicious perfumes, and delightful music chanted by cheerful birds, assure us that we now walk beneath an Italian sky. " On as we move, a softer prospect opes — Calm huts, and lawns between, and sylvan slopes : White mists, suspended on th' expiring gale, Moveless o'erhang the deep secluded vale ; While pastoral pipes and streams the landscape lull. And bells of passing mules that tinkle dull." In 4J hours, we have descended over 6,000 feet ; passed from chilling winds and snowy Alps to a valley rich in corn, wine, and oil ; from the home of the Swiss, to that of the Italian ; and walked twenty miles surrounded by scenery the most varied, — a very pleasant morning walk. At Aosta, a town founded by the Emperor Au- gustus to guard the mountain Pass, we dine ; and thus refreshed and strengthened, take the Diligence for Ivrea, — distant forty miles. While this our first Italian dinner is being prepared, a walk through the town reveals some strange customs. On the walls of the public square, are notices of *' engagements^' between some young Italians of Aosta ! Just think of the publicity given to that, which, is so often kept a profound secret. MARRIAGE CONTRACT MADE PUBLIC. 273 Whenever a young, or old couple, hy mutual courtesies and kindly attentions, attain to that happy condition of imagining, tliat they should be ''no more twain, but one flesh/^ the town or county official, is immediately informed of the fact. This delighted Italian hastens to inform the public, by a printed notice, posted in the most conspicuous place. The items, composing this bill of fare for vulgar eyes, are as follows; — the man's name, age, residence, trade: his father's name, residence and profession : the woman's name, age, (!) residence, and her father's name, residence, and profession. With some slight alterations, this notice would read in English, as follows: — John Smith, — aged Q5, living at 33 Layasse St., son of Peter Smith of 65 Castellane Alley, proprie- tor of a cafe, — has just entered into an engage- ment for life, and for "better or for worse/' with Miss Delinda Jones, aged 63, (?) residing at 44 Beldire Row, daughter of Jeremiah Jones, of 44 Beldire Row, keeper of a refreshment saloon. How would lovers in America, of such tender years, blush at seeing the promised nup- tials thus placed on public exhibition ! But these Italians are reasonable people; and the reason given for this public announcement is satisfactory — to wit : — " that persons may have an opportu- nity of making objections,'^ to the consummation 12 274 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. of the union. A splendid opportunity this for rejected lovers ; — for all those heart-broken youths of 70^ to whom this blooming maiden may have impulsively given that uncomfortable covering for a loving hand, — ^'the mitten.^' Would not such a custom of public announcement in America be a healthy restraint upon the loving enthusiasm of beardless boys, and romantic maidens? In Chantillon, the grade, weight, and price of mer- chandize are printed and posted in the public places; and venders of meats and bread, must state the grade, exhibit the weight, and only charge the " lawful price/' upon pain of forfeit- ure. Would it work public injury, if laws like those of the Chantillon " Conseil Communal,'^ should be enacted for the government of some American markets ? At Ivrea, some of the women walk into church bare-footed; and every one of these Italian ladies, have both head and shoulders covered with beauti- ful white handkerchiefs, or shawls. The contrast is striking, and we have not witnessed such a spectacle in any other place of worship. Since leaving Lausanne, we have traveled by steamboat, diligence, mule, and on foot, just 200 miles. At Ivrea, we are '^out of the woods,'' and the shining '' rail " is seen w^ith joy ; while WOMEN THRESHING. BRILIJANT COSTUME. 275 the announcement in Italian, placarded at the ^'sta- tion, " promising a swift (a grande velocita) flight over the sunny land of Italy, is read with delight. The morning is simply lovely, and the train sweeps speedily past Chivasso, Vercelli, Novara, the birth-place of Peter Lombard, — ^^ Magister Sententiarum,'^ — and onward to the beautiful city of Milan. Along the route the corn waves and glistens, and trees bend beneath precious burdens of promising fruit. Men and women, bare-footed, are swinging the flail, and threshing in the open air. Farmers are turning the furrows with shin- ing ploughs, drawn by cream-colored cows. The flowers, blooming around these red-roofed stony cottages, are of the most brilliant hue; while men and maidens, adorned with crimson and orange- colored fabrics, add by their variegated appear- ance, to the novelty and picturesqueness of the scene. Milan, has a population of over 200,000 ; is the capital of Lombardy ; and one of the most pros- perous tow^ns in Italy. The railroad depot is adorned with frescoes, that feed the eye with scenes of beauty, wdiile the body is being refreshed with a most enjoyable noontide meal. There are several wide and well- shaded promenades, some splendid private resi- dences, and a succession, — for several blocks, — of the most elegantly furnished shops. 276 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. The Galleria Vittorio EmanueUy is "tlie most attractive structure of the kind in Europe." It is cruciform in shape, 320 yards long, 16 yards wide, and 94 feet higli, and has an octagon in the centre crowned by a cupola 180 feet in height. It is adorned by 24 statues of celebrated Italians, and illuminated in the evening by 2000 sparkling gas- jets. l?his unique edifice, — where are centered the most attractive and brilliant silk and jewelry establishments," — cost $1,600,000. Adjoining this gallery, is the Piazza della Scala^ embellished with the magnificent monument of Leonardo da Vinci. The Biblioteca Ambrosianay containing 60,000 volumes and 15,000 rare manu- scripts, is visited. On these shelves, the '^fathers'' are quietly resting in volumes of immense size, and preserved in wormed w^ooden binding. In the Picture Gallery of the Brera, w^e find the far-famed Sposalizio, or the Nuptials of the Virgin, by Raphael. How the visitors linger to look upon that beautiful face ! In a building once used as a monastery, may be seen the faded and celebrated painting of *^ The Last Supper," by Leonardo da Vinci. The Cathedral of Milan, is both the pride of the Milanese, and the chief attraction to tourists. Of the 80 churches which adorn the city, this is the largest ; and, excepting St. Peter's at Rome, and the church of Seville, is the largest church edifice MILAN. THE MARBLE CATHEDRAL. 277 in Europe. It is situated in the very heart of the city; and by its gleaming marble turrets, illu- mines the streets that circle around it. It is 477 feet long, and 183 feet wide; the nave is 465 feet long and 51 wide; the dome is 220 feet in height; and the tower lifts its head 360 feet above the pavement. The edifice is supported by 52 pillars, each 36 feet in circumference ; and the broad pavement is of marble mosaic. The roof is adorned with 98 Gothic turrets ; and over 2000 marble statues, — like bright guardian angels, — stand as sentinels along the shining battlements of this, — almost,— celestial mansion. The altar pieces are beautiful, and were painted by some of the most distinguished Italian artists; the vast choir windows are gorgeously decorated with 350 representations of scriptural subjects ; while bronze chandeliers of the most curious form, exquisite workmanship, and flashing with gems, swing from the lofty roof. In the Treasury, are life-size statues of St. Ambrose and St. Borromeo, in silver ! This Cathedral differs from the Cathedrals pre- viously described — York, St. Paul's, Westmin- ster Abbey, Cologne, and Strasbourg, — in many respects, — chiefly in being built of marble. The estimated cost of this '^ miracle in marble," is $100,000,000. 278 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. From the Tower, a splendid view of the Alps is obtained ; and conspicuous among the shining snow^- clad peaks, are those of the lofty Monta Rosa, 15,217 feet high. And the Italian architect, look- ing upon this pinnacled snowy edifice, erected in imitation of the same, the marble-turreted Cathe- dral of Milan ! What are the grandest works o^ man, but feeble imitations of the divine handi- work ! The Milanese are dignified in movement, refined in manner, elegant in dress, and quite handsome. We have seen no paintings in the art galleries, more beautiful than are some of those *' stylish," "fashionable," and "aristocratic" Milanese, that promenade along the brilliant Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele. In the evening, the Piazza is crowded with men sipping wines, and listening to the most charming music, vocal and instrumental. "Oft in the stilly night '' the voice of song may be heard, when the moon shines brightly in the blue Italian sky. Venice, is distant from Milan 200 miles. At four o'clock on a lovely morning, the train, — sent off with the blast of a bugle, — the Italian style of dismissing trains from stations, — goes thundering over the rich and fertile plains of Lombardy. On- ward we speed past the cities of Bergamo, Brescia, Verona, Vicenza, and Padova. How beautifully PEASANTS. VINEYARDS. VIRGIL. 279 situated are these towns, crowning the heights and commanding magnificent views of the surrounding country! And how fruitful are these fields; how sweet with fragrance and merry with song! The language of the poet is appropriate in pres- ence of such a scene : — '' Thou art the garden of the world, the home Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree ; Even in thy desert, what is like to thee? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climates' fertility, Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced," Orchards, vineyards, mulberry plantations, fol- low^ in quick succession. Peasants robed in bril- liant colored garments are toiling in the fields. The fruit trees, festooned with vines, clasp hands for miles along the track. How beautifully Virgil, the farmer and poet, — who was born in Mantua, a few miles distant^ — pictures this peasant life: — *' Oh peasants, far too blest ! if only this Were theirs, the simple knowledge of their bliss ! Far from the din of arms, earth's foodful soil With easy nutriment repays their toil. Yet, rich in various wealth, the peasant knows A life ingenuous, and a safe repose. Calm fields, fresh dells, grots, limpid lakes, the breeze. Echoing with herds, and slumbers bowered with trees." And the Latin poet, Avienus, in a little poem 280 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. on ^'Country Life/' refers to the vines hanging from the trees, just as we see them swing this morning : — " Safe-roofed my cottage ; swelling rich with wine, Hangs from the twisted elm my clustered vine " The train halts on the banks of the beautiful Lago di Garda. This lake is 35 miles long and 7 miles broad. The surrounding scenery is quite picturesque, and groves of orange trees wave along the western bank. At Padua we have a fine view of the Tyrolese Alps ; and Yenezia with its towers, churches, and palaces, gradually rises from the sea. The train, with slackened speed, now rolls over the longest bridge in the world, — that which crosses the Laguna. This bridge is 2J- miles long and 28 feet broad ; has 222 arches; and unites the land to the famous city on the sea. Venice. Upon the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the inhabitants of those cities bordering on the northern coast of the Adriatic sea, were pushed out upon the small islands of the Lagune, by the hordes of barbarian invaders, by whom the country was overrun. These islands became sub- sequently united, and formed the famous island city of Yenice. The present population of Yenice is 130,000, and one fourth of these are said to be paupers. There are in the city 15,000 houses and VENICE. PROMENADING IN A GONDOLA. 281 palaces; and these are erected upon '^ 3 large and 114 smallislands, formed by 147 canals, and con- nected by 378 bridges. '^ The city is 7 miles in circumference, and surrounded by a shallow bay, 25 miles in length and 9 miles in width. It is pro- tected from the sea by long sand hills, which are converted into bulwarks by means of solid masonry 30 feet high, and 50 feet broad. The houses are built either along the canals, or are separated from them by narrow streets. These streets are paved with broad slabs or brick, and wind in every possible direction. The houses rest upon piles, which, by the action of the salt water become stronger and more durable as they increase in years. Older and stronger is their motto. The Grand Canal^ two miles long and 33-66 yards wide — in shape like an inverted S — divides the city into two unequal parts. It is spanned by two bridges, the Ponte Serra Delia Canita, and the historic Ponte di Rialto; and is the ^'aristocratic quarter,'^ — the 5th Avenue of Venice. Its banks are adorned with magnificent palaces, and hand- some houses occupied by the Venetian aristocracy. But how may we travel along this broad avenue, and view these fading glories of ancient Venice, — by steamboat, street car, omnibus, on horseback or on foot? No, — but by gondola. This is, — to ns, — a new style of conveyance, and a trifle more 12* 282 WANDERI^'GS IN EUKOPE. poetic than either an Irish jaunting car, or even a Swiss mule. And how we have longed to sit in one of these ^^ romantic'^ pleasure boats, and be rowed through the streets of Venice ! The afternoon is warm, the gondola chartered, and we are gliding smoothly along the Grand Canal. The " Gondolier/^ with broad-brimmed straw hat tied with blue ribbon, orange colored necktie, and \vaist girt with a blue or red scarf, presents quite a picturesque appearance. Our boat, — painted black, with a low black cabin, furnished with a black leather seat, — is more sug- gestive of an undertaker's establishment going on a burial excursion, than of a pleasure party com- posed of merry tourists. But black has been for 300 years the " fashionable '^ color, and we are delighted at the thought of being in ^' the • fashion.'^ A heavy iron prow counterbalances the weight of the gondolier, who, from the ** pojjpa,^' rows the boat with a single oar. No other waterman can compare with this tall, grace- ful, and handsome oarsman. How lithe and agile! And with what ease and skill, he propels his obedient boat through the wandering fleet that float on the Grande Canal ! But the palaces, — faded beauties, — attract the eye. Here is the Giustinian, — the property of the Duchess of Parma ; the Manin, — owned by the rONTE RIALTO. THE MERCHANT OF VENICE. 2