.* . ^^ -^^ "-y^%^/ .<^ ^%, 'j^m.* ^ ♦'^ -^^ -y^%^/ .^^ -^. . *.-•' .« •*-""•/.-;;.';%'•••• *-Tr.-' ^0- %.^^ ,*i«^-» \/ /Jfev '"^..♦^ ,^i5^»^ %..^^* /Jlfe'v "^^..^^ V^^ "*.,■.'* jfi V »1* '■ **'^** ' ••^'- **--^^*' -'IK- **-^** ' •' V ♦!• • <»'^^:*- --'J^M^^. '^aaI' «, 'bV"' .-^•f:*/ V^^-X V-^^'/ V^-'y 1"^ <", .r .- ...» Ji^ '%b ♦'T7T» A - '^bV* -^^Sffi^^'- '-^^o^ - "t, ■■■> .Ji;;- *= >" ^^'\ cv * '^ -•^•^-'^o^ J^\.::^.% o^^yj^^.% /\»i:^%\. "^ '■'"' ' -^h^" :i^^^^' '^'^^0^' :<^^^' ^-<> --'d^nm^^^ '^^.s ^°^ 'bV ^^-^K •^o^ ^0 -V ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^F^ V ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H ^■l H ^n ^M ■i :^ ^ 1 E 1 ^L^^^^^ -J FRED VAN ORMAN President 1909-1910 H. M. M. B. A. THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST BY GEORGE WHARTON JAMES AUTHOR OF In and Around the Grand Canyon," "In and Out of the Old Missions of California, " The Indians of the Painted Desert Region," "The Story of Scraggles," "The Wonders of the Colorado Desert," "What the White Race May Learn from the Indian," "Through Ramona's Country," "The Grand Canyon of Arizona," "The Heroes of California," "Traveler's Handbook to Southern California," "The California Birthday Book," "A Tribute to Charles Warren Stoddard," etc., etc. 1911 Press of Bolte & Braden Company 50 Main Street San Francisco JOHX S. MITCHELL. THE NEW PRESIDENT. A man well developed, mentally and physi- callv, strong in everv sense, is the new pre:si- dent of the H. M. M. B. A. He would be an acquisition for any insurance organization, even foi' the largest and most influential of the old liners, who are in the habit of paying from $25,000 to $75,000 for a president. And the H. M. M. B. A. secured him through the unanimous vote of its members who met in Los Angeles on Tuesday. April 12, 1910. But U' Mr. Mitchell is strong in a business sense, lie is equally prominent socially and civically. for he looks far outside of his own. immediate surroundings in which to find a field for his at tivities. Some years ago Mr. Mitchell was promi- nently engaged in business in Arizona. Later he became interested in the Hollenbeck Hotel, and when Mr. Bilicke's interests about the city grew and increased, and the Alexandria Hotel was built. Mr. Mitchell took control of the Hollenbeck as managing proprietor, though Mr. Bilicke still retains his interests. Since this happened the Hollenbeck has been en- larged, taking in other T)uildings; it now has about 500 rooms, with 250 private baths. Only recently $50,000 was expended upon the hotel. Tlie Hollenbeck is to Los Angeles what the Palmer House is in Chicago, or the Fifth Ave- nue used to he to New York. In its present hands it will ever be a clean, respectable, mod- erate-priced hotel, and perhaps the biggest dividend maker in the city. Mr. Mitchell is a line type of the men who liave given true values to California — honestj , solidity, permanence. He is a hotelman. but much besides: he takes the greatest interest in the business and commerce of his city, is identified with the commercial and civic organ- izations, and hi^ altruistic efforts are as posi- tive as those which pertain to his own busi- ness. Civic improvement, educational matters, the development of the things that make a city not alone great, but progressive, clean and cultured, secure his best thought and effort. His election has added to the strength and permanency of the organization. HOW IT CAME ABOUT The visit of the 11. .M. M. I'.. A. to California and the L'acihc Coast in AjM-il, 1910. is the second time the Land of the Sundo\\'n Sea has been honored by the presence of the bonifaces of the East, North. South and West. In 1895. fifteen years ago, the organization voted unanimously, and with enthusiasm, to \isit California. George W. Lynch. A. C. liilicke, -M. A. Dudley, and the \\riter formed a committee sent East to extend the invitation, which was accepted. Fourteen years ago, in three special trains, this acceptance was made operative, and for fifteen days the leading towns of the Pacific Coast rang to the merry voices of the H. M. M. P>. .\. excursionists, and the clarion notes of Tom Henry's cornet. .., The promises made b}- the writer when the in\itation was extend'ed were more than kept, ami at the Farew ell ! at the Oakland ]\Iolc. there was an increase rather than a decrease of enthusiastic appreciation. It was then that the writing of a book descriptive of the trip was suggested, and the pleasant task fell into ni}- hands. The 1910 trip, as was that of 1896, was ])lanneil by the Southern Cali- fornia Motel Association, under the presidency of John S. i\Iitchell. of the Hollenbeck and the Alexandria. Hut, as is well known in our State, ami growing to be well known throughout the country. California is a unit in working for its own welfare, and. therefdre. the C.'alifornia Hotel Asso- ciation, of San b'rancisco. was asked to join with the Southern California Hotel Association in extending the invitation, exactly as the}' did on the former occasion. Although .San Francisco was still working strenuinisly to completely recover from the disastrous efl:'ects of the tragedy of 1906, she responded with her usual cordiality and vim. and the result was the invitation was extended by the two associations that the annual meeting be held in Los Angeles in 1910. and entertainment be extended throughout the State to San Francisco. The in\-itation was duly acce])ted, and we have \ct to hear oi one jierson who has regretted it. The results, better than anv words of mine, show how successfully e\erythir,g was done. Nothing was forgotten, no one was ignored. e\-eryone and cxerything was attended to. so that the ]5rogram went through without a hitch. Pasadena, Cal.. September EDWARD M. TIERNEY, HOTEL MARLBOROUGH, NEW YORK, CHAPTER I OUR GUESTS FROM THE EAST Three specially appointed trains, the finest the various railway companies could provide, brought our guests from the East and the ]\liddle West to enjoy our hospitality. There was the New York Special, the New England Special and the Chicago Special. THE NEW YORK SPECIAL The following account of the New York train was written by Charles E. Gehring. of the "New York Hotel Review": 'Twas the afternoon of the fourth of April in the year of Our Lord Nineteen Hundred and Ten, and the rain — well it was raining the proverbial cats and dogs, with a few mastodons and dinosauri thrown in to make the measure full. It was a day to dampen the spirits of even a newly love- smitten ])air, but there was no room for applying any kind of a damper to the temperaments of the metropolitan travelers westward. Their enthusiasm, intensified by their anticipations of the wondrous things which the original and only McCann had in store, raised their spirits and added zest to their final preparations. Still, the miserable weather kept away many who had intended to be present to bid their friends good-bye. As it was, among those \\ho braved the elements and saw the party off at the Jersey City station of the New Jersey Central Railroad were Mr. George W. Sweeney, of the \'ictoria ; Mr. Walter Hildrcth. of the Breslin ; Mark Cadwell, secre- tary of the \ew York City Association, and Herman Mergenthaler, now the son-in-law of the X'ictoria's proprietor, Dr. A\'alter Gilday. Of course, there was the usual hustle and bustle and the customary excitement, but in good time all who had obtained reser\-ations "ciualified," and the train, the finest \vhich has ever graced the tracks of the Jersey Central, or almost any other road, for that matter, rolled out of the terminal, to the waved and shd'ited adieus and "giKlspeeds" of those whom circumstances forced to remain behind. At Philadelphia, Mr. Hayes, of Carstairs, added a liberal quantity of really gond "Inljricant" to the (.quipment of the baggage car. .\t Wash- ington, another short stop was made, and the train was boarded for a few moments by a delegation of the hotelmcn of the capital city, headeil by Mr. De\ine, to whose forethought and gallantry the hulies in the i)arty owed handsome ])ou<|uets of roses. Chattanooga, where last year's con- vention was held, was reached the following day. Here the train was met In- Mr. and Mrs. Alexander and Ibuiston Harper, of the Patten, and Mr. Samuel Read, of the Read House, who succeeded handsomely in making pleasant the verv brief stay of the delegation in their new and beautiful union station. THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Claude x\ tt — N ite the gait. •Mr. Tit.-nie\" ;iiiil ladies Salt LaI.e City. at II r. and Jlr.s. E. .1. I-'leming. Mr. and Mrs. Julius D. Mahr and Charles F. Lar- zalere. Thunias Hilliard. C. S. Welirle. ill ilif center, Miss Wehrle to the left, Mrs. Wehrle to the right. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THP: PACIFIC COAST -.1 Train Orgsnized Like a Small Hotel Sliiirtly after ilic train k ft Xew York those aljoard were apprised of the fact that tlure was to be some system about the trip — no irksome restrictions, but just a few rcjjulatioiis having to do with the greatest good for the greatest number. I'or instance, the hours for nitals taken aboard tlie train were set ior each ])assenger. Call hours were, of course, according to the wishes of each individual. The rule closing the train at midnight was strictly enforced. Ho\ve\'er, these simple limitations of "personal lib- erty" met with (|uite unanimous approval, and accordingly the arrangements worked out beautifully. M ..™ , 'f. f; Mr. and Mrs. W. Johnson Qiiinn and Frank A. K. Boland. .1. S\veene,\'. official pliotog- rapher. Henry F. Wood, of tlie Empire Laundry, and .John McGlynn, of Troy. The leaders and spokesmen of the |)art\- were, of course, Alessrs. Tierney and Reed, as a result of whose eftorts. and tliose of Joseph 1'. .McCann, of McCann"s Tours, the special train plan became a reality. Incidentally, too nmch credit can not be given to Mr. McCann. whose arrangements were ])ractically perfect. There was m.it a hitch an\\\here. not an accident, howsoe\-er slight, not even a hot journal during the entire 7,900 miles, a really remarkable thing. Then. too. the railroad officials seemed at all times prompted Ijy a determinatidu tij go nut of their way to insure the safety and the comfort of the members nf the part}'. Each road traversed assigned a passenger agent to accompany the party until he was succeeded by the official representative of the next railway, the roads over which the Xew York M. M. M. 1!. A. special traveled to Los .Angeles and San l-'ran- ciseo being as follows: Xew York to ^^'a . Sicn .Antoiiin. Texas. inaile(|uatc conking facilities, notwithstanding which fact, those which were supi.osed to be hot were actually served so. It was remarked by all of the members that it was the most typical "Southern" menu thev had ever had the pleasure of sitting down to enjoy, and it was otherwise most favnrablv commented upon, especially in \iew of the short time it took to serve this nual. The one hundred and thirty-five guests were all seated at 2:20, and were through at 3:4.^. At 4 o'clock all of the tables were cleared and put aside to make room for dancing, tpiite a feat in the line of expeditious service. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST i;', "Jack" Letton and Ed. Racine on Hand In the tvcning- the party were entertainetl at dinner at the Grunewald, after which a few hours were spent as individual tastes dictated. A pleasing feature was the presence of Mr. John 1-". Letton, of the Bentley. in .\le.\an- dria. who had traveled one hundred and eighty miles just to spend an hour or twii with the Easterners. We also had the pleasure of the company of Mr. Ed. 11. Racine, of Meridian. [Miss. The train left at 10 o'clock in the evening, the Xew Yorkers just before their departure entertaining their hosts in the "library" car. Short, But Pleasant Stop in Beaumont Beaumont, Te.xas. was reached early the following morning. Onlv a brief stop was made at that point, the train being met by Mr. Been, of the Crosby House, and a committee representing the Chamber of Commerce, who overwhelmefl the Easterners with flowers. .-V rather pleasant surprise was furnished in the way of an auto completely covered with floral decora- tions, which unfortunately made its appearance only as the train was leaving the station, so that the party merely had a glimpse of it. While the Beaumont stop was being made. [Mrs. C. .\. Hagerman presented the party with a handsome hammered brass flower basket filled with roses, suggesting that it be presented to the lady who succeeded in guessing the number of flowers. This gift subsequently became the property of Miss Oaks, daughter of the proprietor of the Kenmore Hotel in Alban_\', N. Y. Swearingens, of San Antonio, Make Big Hit It was at the Sunset Depot in San Antonio that the ne.xt stop was made, the train arriving at 6 in the evening and the members of the partv being met by a delegation of local bote hue n. That night the guests were treated to one of the finest bancpiets of the entire trip. Messrs. F. M. and Byron S. Swearingen had taken excellent advantage of this opportunitv to demonstrate to their visitors that San Antonio could boast of first-class, up-to-date hotel facilities, under the direction of men who also knew Imw to serve a large and elaborate banquet. Mr. Walter 1'. Xajjier was toastmaster and speeches were made Ii\- Mayor liryan Callaghan, E. M. Tierney, F'red A. Reed, ]•". M. Swearingen and Charles E. Gehring. Each one of the speakers complimented the .Swearingens ujKjn their magnificent hotel and the fine banquet which they had just served. These compliments were more than empty nothin<>'s, uttered to be in harmony with the occasion and to do the right thing by a generous host, .^s a matter of fact, the Hotel St. .\nthonv. to which a large addition has just been made, is doing an enormous business. It requires only a few moments' talk for one to be convinced that the elder Swearingen is a man of real business genius, and it is also plain that in his son Byron he has very able support. The management had arran"ed 14 THE I'UO TKll' OF THE H. M. M. 1!. A. for coffee ami an enlcrtaiiimont in the roof garden, but this was prevented l)_v rain. A delii^httiil diversion was furnished, however, by an informal celebration of the nineteenth anniversary of the wedding of Mr. and Mrs. John W. liutler. The fact had kaked out during the day and accordingh' an arrangement was made with the orchestra to have it play Lohengrin's Wedding March in tlie midst of its formal program. This was the signal for a toast, in which, it is needless to add. the entire party joined with avidity. During the course of the evening the ladies of the party were the recipients of pretty fans in the center of each of which was a large photograph of the St. Anthony, while the men were presented with neat watch fobs bearing a beautiful raised crest of the hotel and also with morocco card case bearing the inscription. "Compliments of the St. Anthonv." Points of Interest — At the Gunter The night was spent at the St. Anthony, whence, after breakfast the next morning, the party assembled at the .\lamo. where they were met by hotel men and other citizens, by whom they were conducted in autos around the Mission Loop, visiting Missions Concepcion. San Jose and San Juan, with a stop at Hot Sulphur \\'ells, a beautiful spot with a fine hotel, for luncheon. This was the favorite stopping place of the late E. H. Harriman. the railroad king, who often encamped in a tent on the Hot Wells grounds, and who, in 1909. wrote Manager J. E. Cockorell a very complimentary opinion of the place. The drive was then continued through the city to Fort Sam Houston, one of the largest army posts in America. At 1 o'clock the delegation were the guests of H. H. Franks and the Gunter Hotel Company, where they were given their first glimpse of "A Trip to Mexico." In addition to the Mexican Milage and other scenes of that country, portrayed with no regard for expense, a Mexican vaudeville show and a complete ^lexican dinner was served. Speeches were delivered by Messrs. Weber. Tierney, Reed. Fleming. Bain. F. X. Swearingen and Gehring. All the ladies were presented with souvenirs, silver-lined bronze cups with raised fig^ires of the various missions and a small Mexican basket filled with candy. A handsome hand-carved and vari-colored cane was the favor presented to the men of the party. A typically ^lexican luncheon, "Meritnda Mexicana Dada." was served at the Gunter. (The best transla- tion of the menu which the writer can give is "hot stuff." Evervbody enjoyed it : as we did the St. Antonio brew with which we frequentlv i|uenched our parched tongues.) Spanish Dinner at the Menger The closing event in San Antonio was a "Comida Espanola " in the quaint and beautiful Hotel Menger. where Manager Bruce, an able and thoroughly progressive hotelman. had intended to ser\e the dinner in the patio of the hotel, which had been magnificentlj- and most originallv deco- rated at great expense. Here again, however, rain interfered with the TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE I'ACIFIC COAST 15 plans and it was therefore necessary to serve the meal inside the hotel. Aigain the writer is at a loss to translate the menu, but it may be said for it that all whu sat at Mr. liruce's hospitable board enjoyed the dinner to its fullest measure and highly praised his excellent service. Mr. Tierney expressed the thank you of the delegation and Mr. Bruce responded grace- fully in a few well chosen words. The hotelmen of the city accompanied their visitors to the train where they, in their turn, were royalh- entertained, the Xew Yorkers doing the honors to the king's taste. There were music, fireworks, etc. (particularly "etc."). and just before the train drew out of the station on its way to El Paso an in\itation was unanimously tendered by the San .Antonio hotel- men to have any or all of the party as their guests at any time in the future. It w^as at San .\ntonio that .Mr. H. H. Franks, the enterprising manager of the Gunter. joined the party to attenfl the convention at Los .\ngeles. This is th? list of the Xcw York delegation : Mr. F. X. Hain. Xewburgh, X. Y. : Mrs. G. D. Bayard, Xew York: .Mr. Frank A. K. Boland, Xew York; Mrs. S. G. Boyce, Mountain View, X. Y. ; Miss G. G. Iloyce, Mountain View. X. Y. : Miss Ella J- Brown, Tuckahoe, .X. Y. ; Mr. John Burke, Xew York; Mr. John W. Butler. Xew York; Mrs. John A\'. Butler, Xew York; Mr. C. A. Carrigan, Xew York; Mrs. C. A. Carrigan, Xew York; Dr. M. R. Grain. Rutland. \'t. ; Mrs. Dr. ^I. R. Grain, Rutland. \'t. ; Mr. Alex C. Eustace. Elmira. X. Y. ; Mr. Chas. E. Gehring, -Xew York; ^Ir. \\'m. Gordon, F'ishkill-on-Hudson, X'. Y. ; ^Irs. W. O. Graham, Xew York; Mr. H. C. Griswold, Bridgeport, Conn.; Mrs. H. C. Griswold, Bridgeport, Conn.; Mr. Fred L. Hall, ^laplewood, X. IL; Mrs. Fred L. Hall, Maplewood, X. H. ; Mr. Paul Halpin, Xew York; Mr. Frank Halpin. Xew York; Mr. Thos. M. Milliard. .Xew York; !Mrs. Henry .A.. Hurlbut. Xew York; ;\Ir. Chas. D. Johnston, Richwood. W. \'a. ; Dr. .A. V. Jova. Newburgh. X. Y. ; Mr. Lawrence R. Kerr. Xew York; Mrs. Lawrence R. Kerr. Xew York; Mr. David H. Knott, Xew York; Mr. Chas. F. Lar- zelere, Xew York; ^Ir. J. E. Leech. Xew York; ^Ir. \\"m. Lindenbach, Buffalo. X. Y. ; Mrs. Wm. Lindenbach. Buffalo, X. Y. ; Mr. I'red Loughran, Fishkill-on-Hudson, X. Y. ; Mr. J. P.. Lunney, \\'ashingtonville. .\". Y. : ^Ir. J. P. McCann. Xew York; Mrs. J. P. McCann, Xew York; .Mr. S. Mc- Cullough, Hartford, Conn.; Miss F. L. McDonald, Binghamton, X. Y, ; Mr. John McGlynn, Troy. X. Y. ; Mrs. T. A. :\IcKee. Washington, D. C. ; Mr. Julius D. Mahr, Xew York; Mrs. Julius D. Mahr, Xew York; Mr. Joseph G. Mason, Xew York; Mr. I'rank .\. Merrall. Xew York; Mr. F>ed H. Meyer, Xew Haven, Conn.; Mr. C. R. Xott. Xew York; Mr. D. J. O'Mara, Mariner's Harbor. X. Y. ; Mr. J. A. ( )aks, .\lbany, X. Y. : Mrs. J. A. Oaks, .\lbany, X. Y. ; Miss Marguerite Oaks, .Albany, X. Y. ; iliss Gertrude Oaks, Albany, X. Y. ; Mr. ^^'. Johnson Quinn. Xew York; ^Irs. \\'. Johnson Quinn, X'ew York; Mr. Fred .\. Reed, Xew York ; Mrs. Fred A. Reed. Xew York ; Mr. \V. A. Reist, York, Pa.; Mrs. \\'. .\. Reist. York. Pa.; Mr. James Runciman, Xew 16 THE 1910 TRir OF THE H. M M. I'. A. York; Mrs. James Runciman, Xew York; JMr. (). C Russell, New York; AIi. C. R. Sandstedt, Xew York; Air. G. F. Schutt, Washington, D. C. ; Air. and Airs. Edward F. Fleming, Philadelphia, Pa.; Airs. G. F. Schutt, Washington, D. C. ; Air. \\'m. H. Seaich, Xew York; Airs. Wm. H. Seaich, Xew York; Air. Harr\- W. Smith, Emporium, Fa.; Air. Jas. H. Sweeny, Port Jervis, X. Y. ; Air. J.ihn \\'. Sweeny, Port Jervis, X. Y. ; Air. Edward Al. Tierney. Xew York; Airs. Edward Al. Tierney. Xew Y' irk ; Aliss Genevieve E. Tierney. Xew York; Air. E. Al. Tierney, Jr., Xew York; Air. Wm. H. \'aliquette, Xew York; Aliss Al. E. Valiquttte, Xew York; Airs. Alar}- E. \\'agner, Xew York; Aliss Alay C. ^^'agner, Xew York; Alaster W. E. A\'agner, Xew York; Airs. E. B. Washliiirn, Xew York; Air. C. S. ^\'ehrle, Stamford, Conn.; Airs. C. S. \Yehrle. Stamford, Conn.; Aliss Lillie \\'ehrle, Stamford, Conn.; Airs. E. W. Wheeler, Washington, D. C. : Dr. Percy Al. Williams, Rutland, \'t. ; Airs. Percy Al. Williams, Rutland, \'t. ; Air. Henry 1-. Wood, Xew York; Airs. Henr}- F. \\'ood, Xew York; Airs. Theodore F. Wood, Xew York; Aliss Theodora Wood. X'ew York; Air. .A. \". \\'right, Washingtonville, X. ^'. THE NEW ENGLAND SPECIAL The personnel of the part\- was as follows : Air. and Airs. Claude Al. Hart, Hotel Touraine, I'-osloii ; Airs. L. E. Al. Porter, Hotel Touraine, Boston; Mr. ( )li\xr J. Pclren. Eagle Hotel, Concord, X. FF; Air. Harry J. Pelren. Eagle Hotel, Concord. .\. IF; Air. James H. Bowker, Winthrop Flotel, Aleriden. Ct. ; Air. Harr\- L. I'.rown, Hotel \"ic- toria, Boston; Airs. H. A. Brown, Hotel A'ictoria, Bo.-ton ; Air. and Airs. Charles ^\'. Parker, Xew England House, Boston: Air. and Airs. ]. Finfield Damon. Jr., Hotel Thorndike. Boston; Alaster Sherman Damon, Hotel Thorndike, Boston; Airs. W. 11. Sherman, Hotel Thorndike, Boston; Air. and Airs. Wm. ^\'. Davis, Ri\erbank Court Hotel, Cambridge; Air. and Airs. ( ;. E. Ricker, Hotel \\'oodbridge, \\'. Somerville : Airs. X. E. Philbrook, Hotel Woodbridgc, W. Somerville; Air. W. L. Birely, Siiuth Station Restaurant, Bos- ton: Air. Geo. \\'. Clark, X'ew .American House, Pittsfield, Alass. ; Air. George E.Hall, XewAmeri:an House. Pittsfield, Alass. ; Air. E. L. Alorandi, Boston ; Air. and Airs. John A. Bond, \\'ilson House, X. .Adams, Alass.; Col. Frank S. Richardson, Wilson House, X. Adams, Alass.; Airs. E. .A. Fowder, Hotel Hollis, Boston; Air. J. Henry Breslin, Hampton Hotel, Boston; Airs. Catherine Breslin, Hampton Hotel. Boston; Aliss AIaI)el !•". Breslin, Hamp- ton Hotel, Boston; Aliss Ellen .\. Lyons, Hampton Hotel, Boston; Air. .A. D. Bell, The Chalfonte, Atlantic City. X. J.; Air. and Airs. C. T. Shean, Kind;all House, Springfield, Alass.; Air. H. C. Lange. Park Square Hotel. Westfield, Alass.; Air. and Airs. Theodor Lange, Springfield, Alass.; Miss Margaretha Seuss, Springfield, Alass.; Air. and Airs. George W. Childs. TO CALIFORXIA AXI) THE PACIFIC COAST 17 JJoston : Mr. J. C. lUand. Waiircnaii I louse, Norwich, Ct. ; Dr. P. II. Har- riman. Xnrwich. Ct. ; Rlw W. A. Kcefc, Norwich, Ct. : Mr. Charles A. Chafee, Chafee's Motel, AlidtUetown, Ct. ; Mr. L. C. Thayer, lioston ; Mr. and Airs. D. L. linrbank. North .\tlams. Mass.: Mr. William M. Kimball. Kimball House. Springfitld, Alass. ; Mr. Curtis W". Scriven. iloston; Mr. and Mrs. F. T, Grant, Boston & Maine R. R., Boston; Rev, Dr. W. H. Ryder, (jloucester, Alass. ; Mr. and Mrs. Luke J. Alinahan, Hotel ^Vendell. Pittsfield; Air, Felix Smith. I'.oston; Mr, Felix Smith, Jr,, Boston; Air, and Hurry L. Brown, Hotel Victoria, Boston, Mass. Hiin. Williiun W. Davis, manager of the Riverljanli Court Hotel, Boston, an ex-president of the H. il. M. B. A. and secretar.v of transportation for the New- England delegation, was for years prom- inent in city and state government. Airs. R. A. Perkins, Boston; Air. Thomas A. Murray, I'.righani's Hotel. Bostmi; Air. and Airs, lienj. S. Palmer, Chase & Sanborn, I'.oston; Charles P. ^\^.M,l\vorth, Hotel Alossilank, Breezy P'oint, Maine; Mr. and Mrs. S. W. Alanning. Santa I'e R. R,, Boston. This palatial train was under the control of the following : General Committee — Harry L. Bi-own, Chairman; J. Linticld Damon, Jr., Treasurer; William W. Davis, Secretary; James H. Bovvker, Charles W, Parker, Oliver J. Pelren, L. C. Thayer, George W. Ricker, E. L. Alorandi, [, Henrv Breslin, Claude AI. Hart. W. M, Kimball, L. J. Minahan. George IS THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. A. ^^'. Clark. Thomas A. .Murray. Transportation Committee — Harry L. Brown, ^^'illiam W. Davis. J. Linfield Damon. Jr. Supply Committee — William \\'. Davis. Charles W. Parker, L. C. Thayer. Hotels and Baggage — William ^^'. Davis. Thomas A. Murra\-. Captain of Train — Harry L. Brown. On Thursday. April 7th. the New England section were entertained by a committee of the Kansas City Hotelmen headed by T'rank P. Ewins. ex- President of the H. M. M. B. A. Automobiles were provided and the whole party were given a two hours' drive through almost the whole of Kansas City's splendid resident and boulevard district, taking in the famous Cliff "The Kids" on the t:^pecial. Drive and arriving at the Hotel Baltimore in ample time to dispose of a luncheon before train time. This luncheon was arranged for by the ^Missouri and Kansas Hotel Men's Association, and added much to the enjoyment of the guests en route. After a few days on the train, a very agreeable and pleasant party of young people were brought together. The "Kids" they were called, all being unmarried and forming the young element of the party. Harry Pelerin, whose father runs the Eagle House in Concord, X. H.. Charlie W'oodworth of Breezy Point. Maine, J- Plenry Breslin, proprietor of the Hampton House, Boston, Miss Breslin, his sister. Miss Lyons, a friend of Miss Breslin. Miss TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 19 Sliean, whose father is cunnected with the Xew Kimball House. Springfield, and Tom ]\Iurray, of the firm of M. J. Murray & Co.. proprietors and man- agers of llrigham's Hotel, made up the party. On most of their trips, theater ]iarties. dinners, etc.. Mrs. Ilrcslin and Miss Fowler, of the Hotel Ilollis, were the chaperons. .■\t Chicago they had their first party, taking in the Show and having dinner at the Auditorium Annex. At Los Angeles they had many pleasant times together visiting the cafes and seeing the city, when not engaged in the wonderful entertainment ofl'cred bv the Southern California Hotel Men's Association. ■THE SOLID THREE," FRO.M NORWICH, COXX. Rev. William A. Keefe was born in Water- l>ui\-. CunTi.. in 1S7T. He was educated in the public ."ichouls of Waterbury. Hol.v Cross Col- lege. Worcester. Mass.. the Grand Seminary, Montreal, and the Uniyersity of Louyain. Bel- giuin. He is at present located at Norwich. Conn. Father Keefe is a talented pulpit orator. and speaks French and Italian fluently. He is also a progressiye and interesting public sjieaker. and an ardent and enthusiastic niein- l.er of the Knight.s of Columbus. He was a nuist welcome addition to the New England contingent of the H. M. M. B. A. Joseph C. Bland was born in Ireland. July 1. 1873. At an early age he came to this coun- try, and located at North Attleboro. Mass. Since boyhood, Mr. Bland has followed the hotel business, and by persistent efforts has arisen from bell-boy to his present position as manager of the W^auregan House. N'>rwich Conn. .Mr. Bland has been connected with the Parker-Dayenport Company for oyer twenty- fice years. He is an a. member of the board of trustees of the H. M. :\[. E. A., attendant of almost every meeting ( if not every one) of the association since its incepti->n. captain of the Chicago trains for years, needs no introduction to the hotel fraternity of the United State*^, a? mentally alert, as he is a good business man. he Is one of the most prominent members of the ethical society of Chicago. He is a park coinmissioner of Morgan Park, where he re- sides, and is active and forward in every good work that means the general improvement. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 21 In San I'rancisco they had a (.klightl'ul time. Chinatown was visited, also the famous cafes and business section of the city. They took in the trips, that were offered by the San Francisco Hotel Men's Association. The "Kids" section of the X. E. Special wore not known to miss a .trip of any- kind, and they took in many outside trips themsehes. On the way home a \ery enjoyable auto ride was taken in Denver. Col., during the evening, and a dinner party in Chicago, with the theater after- wards. In Niagara Falls they enjoyed a delightful ride in an auto, visiting the many points of interest about the Falls. \\'hen the part\- broke up ( iNIiss Shean leaving the train at ( ireentield and the rest sejiarating in lioston), many regrets were expressed and prom- ises made for a. reunion in the near future. The Choir of Car Eleven, Chicago Special. THE CHICAGO SPECIAL This special Train of seven I'uUmans and compartment cars, with diner, well provided bullet, etc., left Chicago on Thursday evening, .\pril 7. 1910. Many local hotelinen were present to see the start, among them being /\. C. Bilicke. the president nf the Alexandria Hotel Compan}- of Los /\ngeles. California, who was on his way to Europe ; Henry \\'. Lawrence, proprietor of the Claypool. Indianapolis, and several others. The tVillowing is a list of the cars and their occupants: CORCORAN Mr. and Mrs. George F. Titlow. Hotel Titlow. I'niontown. Pa.; Mr. William E. Hawk. Hotel Pindley. lllanchester. Ohio; Mr. Fred Pitney, Waldorf-Astoria. New York; Mr. John .A. Lewis. Hotel Jefferson. St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. George G. Lippincott, Commercial Club, Marion. Ohio; Mr. F. A. 22 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. :M. M. P.. A. Max L. Teich, The Kaiserhof, Chicago, III. Max L. Teich was born Feb. 21. 1873. in Ger- many and came to this country in the winter of 1892-93. He entered the Hotel Eismark, lo- cated at 63d and Cottaee (Jrove avenue, next to the World's Fair grounds, and stayed there until the Fair was over. The company then started the Bismark Hotel. ISO Randolph street, where he stayed eleven years, after which he organized the International Hotel Company which bought the property 262-274 South Clark street, the location of the Kiserhof, the finest and most attractive German restaurant-hotel in the west. Mr. Teich was accompanied by liis gracious and lovely wife and their charm- ing and sweet little daughter, Ella. As Ella was born in Chicago. March 9, 1901. this was made a delightful birthday trip, coming so soon after her ninth birthday. It is needless to say she was very happy. Her bright, win- ning ways, and her lovable nature made her the pet of the train, and when she reached California she received more attention than many of the very prominent hotel men and women of the party. Altogether the Teich family were a de'ightful acquisition and they made many friends both on the way and in California. TO CALIFORXIA AXD TliE PACIFIC COAST 24 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. IIOX p. F.r.AXHAM Ilditor l-lTtel Bulletin. Chirag>, Illinois. The ■■ H itel Bulletin " is one of the later monthies in the hjtel field, and though only in its fourth year already enjoys a considerable rner.'^nre of' s-uccess under Mr. Branham's able managemer.t. It is the official orgm ( f the Natinal Hotel Clerks' Associatiin. Mr. Bran- ham's genial manner "nd 1 indly way made him miny fiiends on the Ciliforni.i trip. whi> all hjd bin in rleastnt re iiembrance. TO CALIFCJRXIA AND THE PACIFJC COAST A. M. Clearj-. Exclianst- Hotel, Simix CMt>', Iowa. Leavens, Manufacturers' Hotel. .Meiline, 111.: Mr. Walter .\. Poe-eick. Hotel Rvan. St. Taul, Miiin.: Mr. C. A. Klaus, The (Gladstone, Janiestown. \. D. ; Mr. Carl Eitel, Hotel Bismarck, Chieago; Mr. F. L. Holhrook, Royal Hotel. Huron, S. D. ; Geortje T. Gunnip, Santa Fe R. R., Chicago; Mr. \\'illiani H. Worth. Hotel Albany. Chicago: Mr. John K. lilatchford. secretary and treasurer H. M. M. 1!. A.. Daily National Hotel Reporter. Chicago: Mr.. Charles J. Owen. Hotel Radisson. ^linneapolis. Minu. 26 THE 1910 TRIl" OF THE H. M. M. B. A. WM. LAIBLIN, CHICAGO, ILL. Mr. Laiblin is the manager sales department of R. Wallace & Sons Manufacturing Company, 131 Wabash avenue, Chicago. He is a native of Germany, having been born in Black For- est, October 15, 1S76. He came to the United States in 1891, when he was employed in one of Chicago's department stores for a short while, from thence he went to R. Wallace & Sons' Manufacturing Company, with whom he has been employed for the past seventeen years. He knows every prominent hotehnan and is familiar with all departments of this famous silver house. For several years he has had exclusive management of the hotel de- partment and also of the entire Chicago trade. Mr. Laiblin is a graduate of the Chicago Bus- iness Law School, having completed his course in 190S and was admitted to the bar in June, 1909. He possesses a pleasing personality and has made many friends both in and out of Chicago. TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 4' s";!**"^ L_ p. Li. Carpenter, Dri\in8' His Horse Harry I\lcKa>'. P. L. Carpenter, proprietor The Capital, Johnstown, Pa., was one of those who enjoyed the trip to the Hmit. He entered the restaurant business about 30 years ago, but lost practically everything he had in the Johnstown Flood of 1889. Such was his energy, however, that seven weeks after the flood he had four business places started. In 1891 (December 2), he leased the Cambria Club, equipped and fitted it up as a good hotel, and named it "The Capital," — as he expected to make good capital out of it. The building was erected 30 years ago at a cost of $123,000. Mr. Carpenter has expended over $30,000 additional on it. It was the only hotel building that with- stood the flood, the high water mark showing very plainly to-day on the line of the third floor. It now does an excellent business, though it has no license. It is located on the corner of Main and Walnut streets, 91x132 feet, and its proprietor is on the corner E Z street and Shady Side avenue : always "delighted" to see old friends and make new ones. He takes much pleasure in driving a good horse, and Harry McKay is one of the best. When the above picture was made it was Mr. Carpenter's first essay on a sulky. His trainers had all made a failure and he determined to drive his own horse, which he has ever since successfully done. He has a nice white birch cottage in Capital Park — a beautiful natural park of 50 acres — which he donated to his city. He is president antl director of several financial institutions and is altogether pretty well fixed. 28 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. R. A. Mlt P. L. rARPilNTl R proprietor Carital Hotel. Johnstown, Pa., comes from a city which was once tlie wettest city in America. He loves to attend H. M. M. B. A. reunion ^. ML-^S OLIVE l.OHN accompanied her fatlier on tliis trip, as her lirother Haro.d J did fourteen years ag;i. Olive was soon a general favoiite. and she and her companion. Miss June Horton. made many of their elders lianpv bv then- sweet helpf; Iness and their buovant, vet refined and pleasant meriiment ;r^-0*:^ At Uie Indian viMage. Lagiinii, iTIiis IS not the family of .John Irwin who stands in the background.) TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 29 HUTCHIXSON Air. and Mrs. E. J. Carroll, Wiliiaiiis House, Manitowoc, Wis.; Mrs. Alice Rahr, ^\'ilIianls House, Manitowoc, \\'is. ; Air. P. L. Carpenter, Capital Hotel, Johnstown, Pa. ; Mr. and Mrs. Riley D. Cronk, Birmingham Hotel, Birmingham, Ala.: Mr. Martin \\''ill. 1'. I'.ranham, Hotel Bulletin, Chicago; Mr. and Airs. John H. Lewis, Hotel Alarciuette, Alarqnette, Alich. ALIULO Air. and Airs. Chris Neipp, Hotel Robidoux, St. Joseph, AIo. ; Air. and Airs. Emil Demme, Hotel Bismarck, Chicago; Air. and Airs. Alax L. Teich, Aliss Ella Teich. Hotel Kaiserhof, Chicago; Air. Henry J. Bohn, Aliss Olive Bohn, The Hotel ^^■orId. Chicago; Air. and Airs. John Willy, Hotel AIonthl\ . Chicago; Air. and Airs. F. R. Huntington, Armour & Co., Chicago; Mr. and Airs. Charles A. Allen, Chicago; Air. and Airs. Charles A. .Allen, Jr.. Chicago; Air. and Airs. C. L. Hills. Aliss Hills. Hills House. Bloomiugtnn, 111. WH I LEA WAV Air. E. E. Carlev, Chicago; Air. Al Arundel, Chicago; Air. and Mrs. Albert L. Severance, Hotel Pfister, Alilwaukee, A\'is. ; Air. and Airs, h'red A'an Orman, St. George Hotel, Evansville, Ind. ; Air. and Airs. Charles C. Horton, Aliss Horton, Hotel Aletropole, Chicago; Air. and Airs. John Irwin, Irwin Bros., Chicago; Air. and Airs. C. E. Bennett, Hotel Beckel. Daytitn, Ohio; Airs. T. R. Roberts. Chicago. TASHAIOO Frank P. Ewins. John A. Ewins. Savoy Hotel. Kansas City. AIo.; Air. Henrv Hart, Chicago; Mrs. Fred Hotopp. American House. Kalamazoo, Alich.; Airs. Carolyn D. May. The Wisconsin, Chicago; Airs. W. O. Thompson. Pilgrim Inn. Alarion, Ohio; Mrs. Alary Lippincott. Pilgrim Inn, 30 THE 1510 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. P.. A. David R. Hawley, ot Tlie Hawley, Cleveland, Ohio. Mr. David R. Hawley, of The Hawley, Cleve- land, oliin. is one of the veteran hotelmen of the cnuntr.v. having spent nearly all of his life in the business. He was horn in the County of Hastings, Province of Ontario, and after attending the schools of his native town, worked w'ith the farmers until the age of fifteen, at which time he became apprenticed to a harness-maker. A few years at this convinced him that the business was not to his liking, and he driftea into hotel work in Rochester, N. Y., in 1862, at the Clinton Hotel, I. Ashley & Son, proprie- tors. He was first engaged to attend the lunch counter at a salary of sixteen dollars per month, and was later placed in charge of the private dining-rooms at thirty-five dollars per month. Leaving there in 1S65 for Chicago, he started to work for Tucker & Baldwin in the old Briggs House, and was soon after sent by them to help open the Hough House (now called the Transit House) at the Union Stock Yards. February, 1866, found him engaged at the Weddell House, Cleveland, then operated by Kirkwood Bros. About four months later he was employed by H. C. Brockway (a brother of H. H. Brockway of the Ashland House, N. Y.) in the City Hotel, where he remained fur five years. He then started in business for himself and. with a partner, A. M. Lowe, bought the old Pritchard House, changing the name to the Clinton House in honor of the one in whioli he had his first hotel experi- ence. This hotel he continued to operate for eighteen years, in the meantime l)U\'ing the City Hotel of the Brockway Estate, Mr. Brockway ha^'ing died in 1S74. He sold the City Hotel to H. B. West in ISSO, and in 1881 bought the furniture and leased the Striebinger House, which he ope- rated for about nine months, and then sold it to J. B. White. In 1SS2, with his brother Davis and .lohn Langton, he planned and built the present Hawley House. Mr. Langton died in 1S90, his interest being acquired by the brothers David R. and Davis Hawley who continued as partners until li'Ol. David R. then purchased his brotlier's interest and took his two sons, Charles R. and Frank M. into the business as partners. Charles R. died in 1906 and since that time Mr. Hawley and his son Frank have conducted the business under the firm name of David R. Hawley & Son. Mr. Hawley is also the owner of the Claren- don Hotel, Cleveland, buying it in 1SS6, but has never been actively engaged in its man- agement, it having been leased to \'arious parties since he acquired it. He also owns a private home at 85 East Rosemont Roadway, East Cleveland, where he resides, and other valuable real estate in the city. He and Mrs. Hawley were both highly delighted with their trip to the west. TO CALIFORNIA AXL) TI!E PACIFIC COAST 31 Alarion. Ohio; Mr. Samuel R. Read, Read House, Chattanooga, Teiin. ; Air. and Mrs. Hen G. Vieth, Miss \'ieth. Hotel Madison, Jefferson City, Mo.; Mr. Allen J, Dean, Hotel Baltimore, Kansas City, Mo. ; Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Whyte, Hotel Savoy, Kansas City, Mo. ; Mr. and Mrs. W. C. Keeley, Master Keeley, Cataract House. Sioux Falls, Iowa; Mrs. Frank P. Ewins, Kansas City, Mo.; Miss lUanche Harber, liloomingtoii. 111. DEBUTANTE Mr. Salvatore Tomaso, Chicago: Mr. C. D. Johnston, Yew Pine Inn, Richmond, W. Va. ; Mr. Harold F. \'an ( )rman, St. George Hotel, Evans- ville, Ind.; Mr. T. E. Fitzgerald, Clarendon Hotel, Sea Breeze, Fla. ; Mr. C. O. Chamberlain, Palmetto Inn, Daytona, Fla.; Mr. William Lablin, Chicago; A. M. Cleary, E.xchange Hotel, Sioux City, Iowa; Mr. Charles J. Lane, Hudson House, Fludson, Mich. Of this train. Henry J. Bohn wrote as follows in the Hotel World: "This is the Chicago-Pacific special — the New York and New England special trains are beyond the eye of our camera, the former swinging along through the Lone Star State and the latter eighteen hours ahead of us west- ward bound by the same route that we will travel. Here we are ! — in the Santa Fe Station in Chicago at 8:13 p. m., April 7, 1910. all ready for the start. The train is over seven hundred feet long, and will be drawn much of the journey by two and sometimes three locomotives. It is a train de luxe — a veritable first-class hotel on wheels. Never quite such a train has gone out of Chicago before, having in addition to regulation sectional Pullman berths twenty compartments and fourteen drawing rooms, and carrying with the utmost comfort and luxury the more than one hundred and twenty excur- sionists. After the locomotives follow a baggage and buffet car, from which the baggage has been eliminated and a "commissary" arrangement fills the space, where drinkables and eatables of about every name and nature arc in abundant supply in charge of two faithful attendants. Next comes the barber shop, with a skilled tonsorial artist in charge ; next the smoking and reading room and buffet proper. Then follow the most modern an' realty owner in that city, where he is the most influential and able member of the Park Commission: famed for his practical hotel knowledge in construc- tion and equipment. He is a native of New York State. fact, began last night ^\d^en Ma.wvell M. Jones of Libby. McXeill & Lihby, went as far as Joliet with us and ga\e everyone a beautiful Inillsexe cluck." This was on Fi Jay, yet as we nave seen, Mr. Ewms did the same thing for the New England Special the day before, assisted by the Kansas City Hotel and Restaurant Keejiers' Association, and members of the Missouri and Kansas H. M. A. Mr. Ewins is a firm believer in these words: "The annual reunions of the II. M. M. 1!. A. are redolent with fragrant memories of enjoyable things — of loving and life-long acquaintances formed — and what counts commercial success if along with it we do not make life worth living with the better and lovelier things of the world." TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 35 Mr. Ewins was responsible in many ways for the arrangement of details all along the trip which contributed so much to the general comfort of the party. F. P., as many call him. is truly an organizer and one who can take in things at a glance, and always does the right thing at the right time. Mr. Ewins has been at the head of Hotel Savoy for the past fifteen years, during which time he was also interested in and opened the Balti- more Hotel, this city, also Hotel Metropole at St. Joseph, AIo,, and the Illinois Hotel at Bloomington, Illinois. Having disposed of all outside interests, Mr. Ewins is now operating Hotel Savoy exclusively, and is prac- tically the exclusive owner. To the general hotel fraternity it is no secret that the Hotel Sa\-oy in Kansas City is one of the most profitable hotels of its size in America. It may be termed a strictly commercial hotel conducted at popular rates. Like its management, it is solid and substantial without frills or false pretense. When the addition was erected some three or four years ago, among the attractive features created was a roof garden and a handsome cafe, the "Santa Fe Trail-' frieze in which has caused widespreatl favorable comment as a piece of hotel decoration. When Frank Ewins first went to Kansas City from Bloomington, 111., near which city he was born and raised, and in which city he had been in the agriculture implement business, he engaged in real estate transactions, with the result that a panic and general depression soon laid him out cold. Then he broke into the hotel arena and leased a very small European plan hotel. He was successful and began branching out, when the Ewins-Dean Hotel Company was organized, the members of which were Mr. Ewins, D. J. Dean and later A. J. Dean. The company leased both city and country hotels, operating them with great success, and finally promoting and having constructed for them the Hotel Baltimore. Then Mr. Ewins sold his interest in the corporation to his associates and retired for a brief period, but soon negotiated and took possession of the Savoy, which he greatly improved and, as above stated, doubled in size. The property is owned by the Arbuckle Bros, of New York, the great coffee men, and they gave Mr. Ewins carte-blanche to go ahead and do in every way as he wished in the improve- ment and enlargement of the property. Mr. Ewins has always believed in the policy of interesting his associates with his interests financially, conducting the business in corporation form. Therefore the Hotel Savoy Company operates the Savoy with Frank P. Ewins as president, John A. Ewins as vice-president, and Alonzo B. Clark as secretary. With the management is associated Frank L. Taylor, one of the most popular hotclmcn of the Middle West, who knows nearly every- body that "comes to town." TO CALIFORXIA A.XD THK PACIFIC CUAST 37 ON AGAIN TOWARDS CALIFORNIA "This Chicago train is said t(.) haxc Ix-en the finest that ever left a rail- way station," states Mr. John W'illey, in "The Hotel Monthh'," and Mr. Willey is so wide a traveler that his word shonld have considerable weight. He continues: "It was made np mostly of drawing-room and compartment cars, and was in personal charge of Geo. T. Gunnip, general agent of the Santa Fe Railroad. The train carried two new dining-cars of the latest improved type, one in charge of Steward Geo. Alarlin, the other of Steward E. B. Carter. The chef was Paul A. Pomrenke. F"red Wendell, traveling super- intendent of the dining-cars of the Fred Harvey system, was also along for part of the way. Interior EI Ortez. Fred Harvey Hntt-l. Limy. N. M. Fred Harvey Meals "The Santa I'^e dining-car menus (luncheons and dinners I were printed in book form : in realit\' si.x banquets, each taking a leaf of the book. The book itself formed a souvenir of the journey. "The hotelkeepers expressed themselves in words of highest praise for this dining-car service, the equal of which they had never seen surpassed in any hotel, restaurant or club. The quality of the foods, the perfection of the cooking, and the smoothness of the service marked the highest devel- opment of dining-car catering. The breakfasts were served a la carte. "A luncheon, complimentary by Fred Harvey, was served at the .Alva- rado Hotel in Albuquerque, the menu for which is also reproduced on 5h c3 O-i s ^ c ?J = «^ rt - K ■*• >.t:^ t- — — 3 (U ■5 >. 'f M d Ji . S O S p S M^ *" "- D— .--Co) ^. B oi - = c tc -'[^ 3J OJ 3 ■r — r^ ;_ r? (11 — —a.; -'* - 0; O S OJ C 3; ^S'^-z: ^^ •? > ;„ -, C OJ t- c - .- s %- ^ 3 O i- y. ?^ t a 4> . w ^ — a£ Qj — '1I11I. — H."^ Sot; TO CALII'T)R\'IA AXI) THE PACIFIC COAST 39 another page. The beautiful iliuing-rooni oi this hotel was profusely decorated with flowers. At the close of the luncheon addresses in praise of tile I'Ted Harvey System were made by President Fred \'an C)rman and U. J. Bohn. Fred Harvey Hotel System "As the train crossed the continent occasional opportunity was given the excursionists to inspect the hotels of the Fred Harvey System, notably the Harvey Hotel, of Newton; the New Bisonte, of Hutchinson, Kan.; the new EI Ortez, of Lamy, N. M. ; the Alvarado, of Albuquerque; tiie new Fray Marcos, of ^^'illiams; the El Tovar, of Grand Canyon; the Escalante, of Ashfork, and the El Garces, of Needles. The Patio vv Inlericiv Cimrt. K\ Oltez, Lam.v, N. M. "The El Ortez, of Lamy. was just about ready to open. It is of con- crete in the Spanish style, all ground floor, and surrounding on open court. The doors are of wood and iron, the windows iron barred, the ceilings heavily beamed — altogether a uni(|ue establishment. It has the modern conveniences of hot and cold running water, baths and electric light." To resume Mr. Henry J. Bohn's narrative : "To-dav, Fridav, April 8, we call 'Kansas Day,' and you see on the screen our long train wending its way swiftly across the rolling prairies where fifty years ago roamed vast herds of buffaloes. To-day we distribute our delegation badges, itineraries, etc. We take all our meals on our diners, and here is where you should see a picture of these two Harvey dining-cars. Thev are built in the art nouveau style of architecture, in i 0; S c ^ ■— .- QJ £' 0) _. 0) O'O ^ <1> ^ o t. •" ~ :S -i-i o ■— "- m N aj ^ t^ t"* J TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 41 solid mahogany, the tables larger than in the older pattern cars, and, like the rest of this superb train, lighted with electricity. Breakfast is served lis a la carte and luncheon and dinner table d'hote. From the first meal to the last served on these cars every man and woman in the party declares no better foods, cooking, or service is found in the best hotels of Xew York or Chicago than is furnished on those diners out on the plains and deserts. "The day passes as H. M. M. B. A. days always pass on special trains — all too fast — with card-playing, visiting, sight-seeing from the observation car, where the evenings are made jolly with singing and mandolin music liv Prof. Tomaso, who does the instrumental stunt for our train. Fray Marcos. Freil H;irvey lintel, Williams. Arizona. "This next morning out, Saturday, April 9, we have at six reached Las Vegas in Xew Mexico, and snow is falling heavily. It settles the dust and alkali and promises us a very comfortable day's travel. At noon we are at Albuquerque and with the compliments of Fred Harvey we are served a splendid dinner at the beautiful .Alvarado Hotel of the Harvey System. The stop and dinner at this unique and i)icturesque mission-style hotel is greatly enjoyed. "All aboard! and on westward to the cactus plains of Arizona. How comfortable and contented we all are in our fast moving "Hotel de Luxe' — the weather perfect, every wish of the traveler anticipated, food, drink, cigars, candy, gum! An itinerary in the hands of ever\' one tells us not only the name and location of everyone on board, but the daily program in California that we are looking forward to with delightful anticipations. Yes, our train is fully equipped to meet every emergency — even to the 42 THE 1910 TRIP (.)F THE H. M. .M. A. medicine chest. Xothing has lieeii overlooked, and no request is left ungratified. "An hour and a half west of Albuquerque the train stops hard by the old Indian village of Laguna and we all take an hour's stroll about this very interesting and ancient American community, climbing to the roof of the historic old church, inspecting its interior mysteries, and a dozen kodaks are busy snapping the dark-skinned "warriors," the squaws at their outdoor laundering and household duties, the many pappooses and Indian lidlets, and other odd scenes. .\nd then it's "on ag'in, off ag'in.' I'lnitit by \V. F. Hetlieringion. Beld'nig. Muhigjii Some of the Chicago party on the steps of El Tovar, Grand Canyon of Arizona. Standing, left to right: A. L. Severance. W. H. Worth. .1. K. Blatchford. Seated, left to right: A. B. Brandt, Mrs. Severance, Mrs. Brandt, Mrs. Hetherington. In front: Henry J. Bohn. ""It is early Sunday morning, April 10th, after a very comfortable day and night from Albuquerque across what has been known as the 'arid plains" of New Mexico, when we are awakened by the heavy laboring of the two locomotives of our train climbing a steep ascent. \Ve get up at si.x. get our breakfast in the diners early, and as the train pulls nearer the Grand Canyon we are all tip-toe and out in a jifify. hurrying to the 'I\im,' to catch the first morning sunrise glimpse of the 'world's greatest scenic wonder.' And here for six hours we worship at the shrine of Nature, where Charles A, Brant and his charming better-half preside as chief priest and jiriestess at the EI Tovar altar. The Fred Harvey and the Santa Fe representatives give us every courteous attention : we are driven in tally- hos to the finest point to view the 'Imperial City of Silence,' venture goodly TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 43 distances down the T'.riij^ht Alltel Trail,' visit the interesting Ilopi House with its wealth of Indian eurios, and fiiiish by listening on the lirink of the Canvon ti.i a lecture of Dr. (jeorge Wharton James on the geology of the canvon. supplemented with a talk by Pioneer Bass, a 'discoverer' of the can\Mn country, who 'begs to differ" from the learned geologists. James was brought b\- the committee in charge of our train all the way from his home in Pasadena to give this 'talk' to our delegation, and it is intensely interesting and enjoyable, for Mr. James is not only the author of what is probably the most standard work on the Canyon, but has also spent seasons in the bottom of the great al)yss studying its boundless detai'. A Navaho ■•Hogan," in the Imliiin x illage near Hotel I'^l Tovar. at the Grand Can.von ot Arizona. THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA ( )f the Grand Canyon itself what shall be said, but that words fail to do luore than merely suggest some of the wonders the eye of the onlooker may see. Here, however, is a description written by John J. Bohn, editor of the "Hotel World," and by him entitled "The Imperial City of Silence": The eternal forces of creation in the dim ages of the past seem to have broken their silence to appear before the world and again fall in slumber. Here was the scene of their mightiest activities; here a moment of their supreme triumph. Now all is calm. 5 TO CALI FORMA AM) HE PACIFIC COAST 45 In beholding the Imperial City of Silence, its endless avenues of vast structures, framed, formed, fashioned in overpowering majesty of beauty and grandeur in this mighty chasm, the human mind is instantly endowed with powers new in the con- ception of the physical world. Xew and heretofore unknown and unfelt standards of conception are developed on the instant, and from these spring new emotions. Memories of the common experiences of life vanisli or assume the form of merest trivialities. You are uplifted, exalted, ennoliled. The "Rendezvi Hotel Kl Tovar. Gi-aml Can.vuii if AiiZMiii' You will never know the canyon if you do not feel it; if you are not attuned lo its harmony. It is not the size, not the depth and widtli. not its incomprehensibility; yon are aided by no description, no data, no analysis, no process of study or reasonniH And when the soul is awakened by what is contemplated, you will experience that ecstasy of emotion, that exalted condition in which natural sublimity and moral sub- limity unite, and then will come to you as if by magic the powers with which to comprehend the finished beauty, the majesty, the grandeur, the sublimity of what is before you. Words may fail you. but you need no words; you are not dwarfed, not depressed, not belittled; self-thought is lost and the harmony of the senses and soul brings with it a glory never before born through the contemplation of creation in any of its forms. One must be forgiven for describing his emotions rather than the canyon. To me the canyon is a subject too sacred, too ennobling, to admit of description. Any attempt is so bebttling as to be a sacrilege. Words, giving facts and figures debase it. The canyon is a theme only for the gifted poet, and he depicts on the page only his emotions; or the painter, who must, through the imagery of the artist soul, speak of what he feels, not what he alone sees, or he is lost. 46 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. J'.. A. You must feel the spirit of the canyon; then you will for the first moment of your life appreciate the genius of its creation, and thereby the creator. One moment on the edge of this chasm — a tit setting for a city that makes a man-city a toy, yet elevates man to a plane where he may realize that he is a fit inhabitant — may seem the greatest of your life, and this appears possible though you may imagine you have lived since the age of Pericles. The spirit of the canj'on when felt brings with it that harmony of the soul and mind in which all is at rest — a condition where strife, antagonism, undoing, retrogression, the negative forms, may not enter in. You may have contem- plated the beautiful and sublime in nature a thousand times before; you may have stood entranced before a great painting, or felt the divine spark in the work of an liiiiiiits of tlie San Francisco Range near Ftaj; Santa Fe. on the way to tlie Grand Can>'u ^ta^f, Arizona, 1 of Arizona. on the lint- of tlie orator or in that of inspired music, but the silent, inaudible music that seems to come from the mysterious and unknown depths of this mighty Imperial City of Silence, unfelt to the ears, and seemingly to all the outward senses, has a meaning never felt before. Until now you have never experienced the satisfaction that comes with a state embodying perfect purity, harmony and goodness. The canyon is a universe of peace, calmness, tranquility. Viewed from the rim, when the sun is sinking low, and the foundations, sides, towers, turrets and temples of the great structures are glowing in colors, from the fiery red of the furnace to the varying shade of mountain, valley and plain, the song of a bird disturbs the silent harmony. It is not awful nor ominous. The mind, seemingly getting a glimpse of the infinite, flies back over ages and ages into the past here revealed, and finds nothing of warfare, of upheaval, of tumult; it has been a work of time, millions upon millions ^ 'y*^ 1 m ■ • "•»" -^ v* isi >^^ ^^^^^^ k ^- -a I, ■4 9 ^^ 5 .. § ~.^:M^^y|£j) »■ . ■' ,_ 1 - ':'•' 5. i .' 1 ^t 'I K^' ■ "■:^3^ ....- .^ .i-.iu li/'- . :■ V b -^ ^ jR^" ■'^ t / / / •■.•' ^HRr* ■f ' .'■' ' if '^ I 1 o Eh 48 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. ■m ■4 ^ •\ . . i.*' t' ^■ m ;^.t A ''-' V^ <• 5^"" w ^l'?' ^ H^-^-^ On the "■Corkscrew" of the Bright Angel TrL'.i'. Grand (.'inMin mI Aiizona. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 49 of years, progressing silently, peacetnlly. unci'asingly. Onh- gravity anil chemical action have wronght out its increasing beautj' during all these ages, and the countless years have not brought the wreck and ruin ascribed to the "tierce spirit of the glass and scythe!" The edge or rim, yoiukr, thirteen miles distant, opposite from where you stand, is perfectly level. The foundations, the coping, cornices, and lines of these gigantic structures, miles upon miles in length, are level, true, as carefully laid as the monument at Washington. If a little piece the size of a twetity-story business block has fallen down a thousand feet it is such a trifle that it awakens no thought of great activity, of great tumult; it is ,-i trifling detail in the silent worl< and finish that has been in In the Huin H-iuse, at ni'tcl lOl Tovar, Graml ('.iii.Mm i^i .\n-..ii,i progression during aeons. Vou feel instinctively that nothing has happened during the age of man to cause a sudden change; nothing will transpire for ages to come to transform this overwhelming unity of the beautiful and grand. But. predominating above all else is the e.\quisite spirit of peace, and you would not have it changed for a world of common material. If you are at Hopi point, miles distant from the water, when all is calm, and your ear is trained, you may hear a faint, soft sighing of the river's current, not unlike a breeze playing through the needles of a pine. But that is all; not a whisper, not a note, a sound from any source breaks the reverie. Its wondrous change in color, as painted by sun, moon, cloud, sky and atmosphere, are silent transformations. The canyon breathes the spirit of eternal repose. The phenomenon, physically, presented by the Grand Canyon of Arizona is that the mighty Colorado river, 2,000 miles long, with its head resting in faraway Utah, 50 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Coirmulci 1;i\.t m llii- Ikm]! ..r tl:.- Ciaiiiti- Gorge i.f the ijraiifl Canvim uf Arizona, just helow Hotel El Tovar. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 51 and draining 300,000 square miles of territory, in its astounding course to the ocean, tlie Gulf of California, in old Mexico, flows for several hundred miles through a idateau nearly 7,000 feet above sea level. What formed the chasm? How came the stream to break through a mountain plain of such extent? This you must discuss with the geologist, and his reply will be mere conjecture. On the rim of the chasm are fossils of great variety, proving clearly that the seven-thousand-foot elevation was at one time the ocean bottom. The theory is advanced that the earth's interior gases raised this plateau, even as yeast does a loaf of bread, from the ocean bottom; that in cooling and drying the rent or gap was formed, and through it came the dammed-up waters from the north. ^ ^ ^ Naviihii bliinlift wt-a\ iiiK in the Hcii Hniuse. Hotel El Tovar. GralKl Can.vun of Aiizuna. It is noon time. The train has been groaning up the grades and curves to the El Tovar. Mr. and ^Irs. Charles .\. Hrant. host and hostess, are there to meet any special guests, and all are welcomed to— not a hotel, but what at a glance seems a .great art studio, with possibly a hotel plant attached somewhere in the rear. You are invited, first of all, to step fifty feet to the edge of the canyon and take a glance over the rim. even before venturing to your room. I am not recording any first impres- sion; the final one is of more value and far more correct. You see the great structural masses, marvelous in size and color, and which you later learn are thousands of feet in height, but of which, at the time, you have no conception. You detect distant pinnacles and towers, varying in form, but all designed after the one architect, and far down in the bcttoni is a slender, tiny thread, just discernible. It is the trail or road. Beyond is a thin streak of green, of grass— it consists of willow trees along a 52 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. :M. R. A. little stream. You make the same attempt to distinguish objects that you did in boyhood when studying the alleged mountains on the moon. The person who glances into the canyon and then leaves it, believing he has seen the canyon, is hopelessly, irretrievabh- deceived. * * * The seeming danger of the forenoon trip intu tlie canyon kept tlie eyes of the inexperienced on the mule and the trail, with the knees hugging the saddle. Once at the bottom, strength, courage and daring grew rapidly, and on the homeward trip there was much turning in the saddles, with backward, side and front views taken, and the gigantic structures, the smaller canyons, the enormous towers, pinnacles, chastns, precipices, and all the features that form the great and silent city are seen and studied to better advantage. It seems less difficult, less dangerous to ride up the trail than down. And to see the riders far ahead and far above you, the ladies in costumes, was a beautiful, a charming sight, if you could for a moinent forget the surroundings. All were happy; there was singing, laughing, hilarity all the way. Half- past five, and your dear, old, patient mule has safely landed you at the door of the El Tovar. How gladly would I have given j\Iary a tip of five dollars, could she have appreciated it! It has been a day of supreme, of over-powering inspiration. The wonder of it all! You would not exchange it for a hundred other days, though they comprehended a tour of the world with the Grand Canyon left out! Thrilling, seemingly extremely dangerous, few ever faint or fall, or are injured, and the one regretting this daring venture is yet to be found. In our party here was a lady who had never been on a horse before! Young school teachers wlio had never climbed a real mountain were Napoleons on this forced march into the depths of the canyon. It requires far less courage, but inore endurance, to make the journey on foot. The little hotel at the first stop on Bright Angel Trail will keep you all night, and the timid and least assured should walk and remain down all night, though some return even on foot the same daj-. Before leaving, see the cany^on from the rim alone, by yourself. Escape from even your best friend. As the sun is setting, when all is perfect calm, watch the changing colors passing over this Imperial City of Silence; study the outlines, the proportions; the wondrous symmetr\- of the gigantic structures, letting the mind expand to the plane where it seems to comprehend this unity of the beautiful and sublime. This you can do only after you have made the tour to the bottom and the mind has sub- jectively encompassed what it has unconsciously contemplated. This venture into the Grand Canyon brought us all close together, and we looked upon each other with much of the respect and even admiration that ordinarily comes only with years of acquaintanceship. "Touched by a light that hatli no name. A glory never sung. Aloft on sky and mountain wall .\re God's great pictures hung. ***** "The canyon holds its breath; no leaf Of all its pines is twirled; The silence of eternity Seems falling on the world." It may interest the meniljers of the H. M. ^I. B. A. to know that I ha\'e Ijeen visiting and exploring various sections of the Grand Can>-nn of Arizona for upwards of twent>'-five years, and tliat I have written two boolis upon tlie sulijeet. one "In and Around the Grand Canyon," and the later one. which describes El Tovar and all the recent improvements for enabling the visitor to see the Canyon, "The Grand Canyon of Arizona." Both these boolis are published by Little, Brown & Co.", Boston. Mass., or can be ordered from me. 109S N. Raymond avenue, Pasadena, Pal TO CALIFORNIA A\D THE PACIFIC COAST .53 ON TO CALIFORNIA "Alas and alack! — wc- can not tarry in this grand spot — on ag'in, off ag'in it is, and this will have to be the slogan all the way to and up the coast. A delightful afternoon's travel over the 'Arizona desert' that doesn't give us even a bit of alkali, but picturesque views of rolling plains covered with cacti, jack rabbits and other native things. Tiresome? I guess not — • look at the picture — never saw a crowd in your life that looked or lived more happily or contented on a raihva}- train, and so regretful that the trip across the continent is so short. .And why not? \\'ith those Harvey dining-cars — such meals — such a butifct car — such compartments and draw- ing-rooms — such social round-ups — such music and singing on the observa- K\ (jarces. Fred Haivey hotel, Needles, California. tion car! Why \\-ouldn't we want to keep right on and on? Onh- one reason — expecting something still better beyond, and so one more night in "Our Happy Home' on the train and we wake in California! On time? Guess so— been killing hours along the way not to get in ahead of time. And that reminds me, I forgot a bit ago to slip the 'Needles' into my picture machine. Last night toward midnight we stopped half an hour at Needles, Cal., where now is one of Harvey's best hotels, where fourteen years ago we found a shack. See that bunch of squaws laying for us tourists? They have 'rings on their fingers and bells on their toes,' but they are not asking 'Has anybody here seen Kelly?' They see us and sell us beads galore — these Indian maidens of some si.xty or seventy sunny summers and lean winters." CHAPTER II MONDAY, APRIL 11, 1910 SAN BERNARDINO, REDLANDS AND RIVERSIDE The first stop in California was niailt- in San Bernardino, one of tlie rider towns of the southern part of the State, and one which is just arous- ing to a full sense of its civic importance. \\ ithin the past few years it ha:; luaiJe great striiles in material progress and population, adding many new and Ime bui!dine;-s and enlarging the area of its richlv cultivated lands. The City's Artesian Well, San Bernardino, Cal. Tliis \\e'.\ flows three million gallons every 24 honrs. From the time of the Indians this valley has been known as Gauchama, "the place of plenty," and when I'adre Uumetz of San Gabriel came over, on May 20, 1810, and founded the Chapel of San Bernardino, he unconsciously took possession of the land from the Indians for the white man. For, soon after Sloat and Fremont had planted the llag of our nation in California, the Mormons settled in Gauchama, then known as San Bernardino, and it has proven a land of plenty since. That the city itself is pushing forward is proven by the fact that over a (piarter of million dollars were spent in street improvements for the year 1")09-10. Edward W. Cason, Secretary S. C. H. A., Los Angeles. Cal. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 59 The special trains were met at the depot by electric cars kiiidlv sent for the occasion by Mr. A. R. Merrihew. the manager of the San Bernardino Valley Traction Co. After a ride through the city the party was taken to the city's artesian well. San Bernardino is wise in that it controls its own water supply. The Eastern guests were both delighted and astonished to see such a flood of water pouring forth as this great well revealed, giving them some idea of the wealth of water underneath, and making possible the creation of these fertile valleys. j\lr. A. G. Kendall, president of the Farmers' Exchange National Bank, with his associates was on hand to explain the various and different methods of using the water peculiar to California, and the visit was therefore made one of instruction and interest. Mr. E. M. Crawford took several of the party through his hotel, the New Stewart, and they enjoyed his hospitality. The Xew Stewart Motel was built some seventeen years ago, by the San Bernardino National Bank, of which E. D. Roberts is the president. It has one hundred and twenty- five rooms, half of which are provided with baths. It has electric elevator, and is lighted throughout with electricity and has steam heat in everv room. \Miile it does a fair tourist business, it is pre-eminently the head- quarters for commercial travelers, and is one of the few hotels of the country that has as large, steady and paying a business as it can accom- modate. This success is owing to Mr. Crawford's excellent management and fine catering. Traveling men are highly appreciative of creative com- forts and these are provided for them in a way eminently satisfactory under Mr. Crawford's supervision. The New Stewart has an enviable reputation that manv a mnre ostentatious hotel might well en\-v. Edward W. Cason was born .January 22, 1S71, at Cartilage, 111. He practically entered business life with Hradstreet's, with whom he remained for thirteen years, working in Salt Lake City. Denyer. and San Francisco. Dur- ing the last eight of these thirteen years he was manager of the Salt Lake City branch. In 1901 he came to Los Angeles and entered tlie hotel brokerage business, in which he has continued eyer since. As propiietor of the Hughes Hotel, Fresno, Cal.. he is a charter member of the re-organized Southern Califor- nia Hotel Association, and for the past two >"ears has been its secretary. He is also vice- president of tlie Angelus Hotel Company of Los Angeles. As secretar.v of the S. C. H. A. he was most active in the work of arranging for the visit of the H. M. M. B. A., and few know how much they owe to the comfort and joy they had r»n the trip to his efficient, far-seeing and tireless efforts on their behalf. In the hotel brokerage business the firm of K. "W. Cason & Company has been eminently successful. Some of the transactions they have negotiated are as follows, thus revealing the high position they have attained: SALES No. Rooms Angelus Hotel 225 Van Nuys Hotel 160 Maryland Hotel, Pasadena (partial) 280 Rosslvn Hotel (partial) 280 St. Mark Hotel. Oakland 250 Broadway Van Nu.vs 150 Hughes Hotel, Fresno 150 Orena Hotel, Los Angeles TOO LEASES Lankershim Hotel 330 Hayward Hotel 225 Angelus Hotel 225 Viin Nuys Hotel 160 St. Mark Hotel. Oakland 250 New Stockton, Stockton 200 San Rafael, San Rafael, Cal 200 Broadway and Occidental 170 Chickasaw Hotel 150 Arlingt'in Hotel. Santa Barbara 200 Alvarado Hotel 100 FAMILY HOTELS— SALE.-! Ahbotsford Inn 100 West Lal-e Hotel 50 Casa Grande. Pasadena &u Decatur. Ocean Park 80 Westmore Hotel 80 La Vista Grande. Monrovia 60 And many others. APARTMFNT HOUSES Sales and Ijcases Cumberland Hotel 175 Astoria Hotel 230 Ems Apartments 100 Adams Apartments 100 Frontenac Apartments 130 Angelo Apartments 130 Schermerhorn Apartments 100 Lovejoy Apartments 150 In the year U!09 the firm did a business or over $1,500,000 in business leases, among which might be mentioned the lease between Bul- lock's and Mrs. Elizabeth Hollenbeck for a long term of years, amounting to $1.0000.000. on the property and six-story building at 679-81 South Hroadwa.v. 62 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. r c 5 PS ss i:Ca TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 63 DWICHT H. HART, Chairman of Recepti.jii Coiiimittee \vhi> met the H. M. JI. B. A. at San Bernardino. In conjunction with his brother, George A., took full charge of the Natick House, at the death of their father in ISSO. The succe.ss of tlie Hart hoys, as tliey liave ever since been l\iic»\vn, is one of the pleasurable features of Los Angeles hoteldom. Dwight and his wife were most acti\-e in receiving and entertaining the members of the H. M. JI. B. A., going out to meet and welcome them at San Bernardino. They made man>- warm friends for their geni- ality, cordially and the sincerity of their wel- c«_'me. and the evident pleasure they tnctk in providing for the wants of our Eastern guests. CHAKLKS C. LUOWIS, HOTEL ANGKLUS, LOS ANGELES. CALIFORNIA, who was active on the Reception Committee and met the guests at San Bernardino. 66 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Scenes at Urbita Hot Springs, near San Bernardino. Cal. The Elks' clubhouse at San Bernardino, Cal., was completed in December, 1908. It is strictly Mission in its architecture and the building was designed and erected under the supervision of Mr. Frank S. Noyes of Riverside, Cal. The building and furnishings cost about $40,000. The lot upon which the building stands has a frontage on Fourth street of 142 feet and a depth of 300 feet. There are 625 Elks belonging to this lodge, and their influence in the city in all social, municipal and generally' philanthropic affairs is marked TO CALIFORNIA AKD THE PACIFIC COAST 67 and potent. The present Exalted Ruler is F. C. Drew, while Col. O. l\ Sloat is Secretary. He also has general supervision of the clubhouse. As the cars rolled through the rich scenery of the San Bernardino Valley, Arrowhead was pointed out, that singular work of Nature that has never been explained, — a \ast arrow clearly stamped upon the side of the mountain. Immediately beneath it are the world-famed hot springs, to enjoy the healthful benefits of which the Arrowhead Hot Springs Hotel has been erected. It is a handsome, yet substantial and picturesque structure, admirably adapted for its purpose, and is owned and controlled by a board of which Mr. Seth Marshall is the principal stockholder and president. Ages before the coming of the white man the Indians knew of the healing waters at the sign of the Arrowhead, and journeyed thousaiuls of miles to bathe in their curative depths. The lake at Urbita Hut Siuings, near San Bernardino, Cal. And ever since the Franciscan friars settled in the San Bernardino Valley the white man has made pilgrimages to this spot, there to regain lost health. To all the people in Southern California Arrowhead Hot Springs is a name to conjure by, and since the new magnificent hotel was erected, and the finely engineered and constructed automobile road, the patronage has largely increased. The lobby, done after the Mission style, is the largest and most com- fortable on the Pacific Coast. Great rockers, couches, settles and open fire- places invite comfort and repose on every side. The Mission dining-room overlooks the entire San Bernardino valley. Great fireplaces, unique furnishings and an atmosphere of refinement con- tributes to the comfort of the guests. 68 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. Li. A. The bathhouse, spotless in marljle tiling, has a capacity of 400 baths daily. Skilled attendants, for both men and women, are in charge, under the super- vision of the consulting physician. "Among the Trees, in Fight of water," at Urhita Hot Spring.'!, Cal. There is also a concrete open-air plunge in which a hundred bathers may sport at one time. To those who love quiet mountain rambles up shaded canyons there is no place in Southern California equal to the Arrowhead. Several visited the famous Urbita Hot Springs, reached by the Traction Company's electric service, and superintended by Mr. ^\'. E. Edwin. This is the popular family picnic and pleasure grounds Boating on the lake at Urbita Hot Springs, near San Bernardino, Cal. TO CALIFORXTA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 69 of the San Bernardino \'allt}'. There are hot springs ijonring forth an astonishing supply of water, filling a lake upon which rowboats. filled with happy pleasure seekers, row to and fro. The bathhouse is well equipped for every kind of baths, but a specialty is made of the hot sulphur liaths, the water pouring out from a spring close by. The lake is surrounded by beautiful trees, which dot the ground in cver_y direction. Farge willows invite luingrv picnickers to feast in the open air under their welcoming shade, and there are merry-go rounds, swings, teeters and e\-ery kind of The High School. Redlands, California. amusement for the little ones, baseball grounds, dance pavilion, zoological collection for those who are older, and shady walks in variety where beautiful birds in brilliant plumage sing sweet songs to the young and old lovers, who say sweet things to each other who pass along beneath. This is a year-round resort, as the climatic conditions are such that, winter and summer, one may enjoy Urbita Hot Springs. The San Ber- nardino \'alley Traction Company owns the grounds, and the manager. A. B. Alerrihew, gives direct supervision to all its operations. This electric road, while under independent management, is yet a part of the great H. E. Huntington svstem. which is now reaching out all over Southern California. It is rapidly making extensions in e\'ery direction, thus making the valley more easily accessible to all. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 71 Redlands Delighted with Saii Bernardino the hap]jy visitors were whirled through the orange groves to Redlands, and there, for the first time this trip, all three special trains and their passengers met. There were many happy greetings, while the cornetist of the New England train made the welkin ring with his happ}' strains. Here a committee from the S. C. H. A. took the party in charge, led by Air. John S. Mitchell, of the Hollenbeck, and including Mr. C. C. Loomis, proprietor of the Angelus : Mr. E. L. Potter, of the Van Nuys ; Mr. D. H. The Gateway to the E. C. Sterling Residence. Redlands, California. Hart, of the Rosslyn ; Mr. Gilbert Carleton, of the Virginia, at Long Beach, and Mr. E. W. Cason, secretary of the local Hotel Men's Association. It was rather a hurried stay the hotelmen made in Redlands, but enough to give them a taste for more. Automobiles, tally-hos and carriages met all the trains and everyone was taken out to see the sights for which Redlands is famed the world over. Packing houses were visited, for it was the height of the orange season, and of course Smiley Heights, wdiere the pleasure was much enhanced by the cordial greeting awarded the guests by Mr. Albert K. Smiley, who. even though a slight rain was falling, came out to speak cordial words of welcome. In describing Redlands, I can not do better than to quote C. E. Butman, from the Los Angeles Examiner: K^^^^^' ^1 V 1 -4* 3 1 * Jf^^^^ti^^^^^^ i ptT' ^H -^ '^ - vTy J 1 \2 j^gj^^H 1^ >< -> « ^^^^^^ i**"^ 'i ^HJJH ri ^^^^^^^H^^^^H ^^s^^0^^^^^it^^^^^^ ^ * ■ ^^^^^^^^^^^H \ -^^1 i TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 73 On a rise of land overlookin;::;- fertile San Bernardino A'allcv. there is a city named Redlands. for no apparent reason, unless, perhaps, it is because its twelve thousand inhabitants hax'e in their veins rich red blood. The city is like nothing' so much as a throne on a raised dais, commanding" a kingdom Midas might envy. For, converging in a distant green blur, long rows of orange trees stretch away on every hand like coUosal arteries, gathering from an orange heart the pulsing stream of gold — nourishment of Redlands. At the feet of the throne are fertile acres in thousands. From them men gather annually oranges in sufficient numbers to give to each man, woman Mirinr Lake. Smiltj- Heiglit.':. ?;e o! ^ c 2 P ^ oj ^'" a) : 111 Co C - < 5 ^e; 111 ■ ^ 5 ^'3 ■ D CD — C 0,55 C5" "■■ •Ms - , ^ « wj i- ;i « ■*-' CO a) c5 cs : £-5 -.= 2 C bd?' — ci --• .•Slgcr; ' t. o fc, o TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 75 A Healthful Eden Amid these far reaches of verdant orchard lands one finds little use for drug or doctor. Climatically the land is all one might imagine Eden. Atlantic City, far to that other side of our continent where the sun rises out of the waters, proudly boasted a fortnight ago that it was king in matters of health. 'AMiy," said Atlantic City, "But eleven out of every thousand of my people die each twelve-month." - "'■-"^'^Bilc^, ^^^^^Mfe- . '^^Jivv ■ri\ e. Reilkinds. California. ii\ t- rlooking San TinR'tt--" c"an> on. In Redlands NINE people out of ever}' thousand surrender to Father Time and his death sickle. Instead, then, of Atlantic City owning the lowest death rate in the United States, Redlands claims that honor. And when one again looks at the records for statistics, one finds that half of those who die in Redlands have attained the allotted span of years — have lived to ripe old age in a fragrant, sunny land. Climatically Excellent This longevity is due first to climate, second to well-ordered living. Pure atmosphere and pure surroundings can not but result in pure lives. 76 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. R. A. Redlands has a highest maximum temperature ranging from 105 in July and August to 79 and 80 in January and February. It has a mean maximum ranging from 95 in July and August to 63 in January. It has a mean minimum temperature ranging from 59 in Jul}- and August to 40 and 41 in January and February. Among the many who were anxious to please and interest the visitors, it may seem invidious to pick out any one person, but I could not fail to note how assiduous was Air. Clifton E. Sanborn, a young real estate man of the city, who has grown up with it, knows it from one end to the other, and whose automobile as well as his own services were generously placed at the Driveway Entrance to the Casa Loma Hotel. Redlands, California. disposal of the committee. If there are any members of the 11. AI. M. B. A. who wish to purchase million dollar ranches lor more) in this region they can not put themselves into safer hands than those of Mr. Sanborn. Hill Crest Inn was visited, where all were hospitably received and refreshments served. A daint}- lunch was also provided at the Casa Loma, the chief hotel of Redlands. whose manager, James S. Aurand, was tireless in his efforts to see that all were hospitably entertained. The Casa Loma is a purely California hotel both in style and surroundings. It was just com- pleted when the H. AI. AI. B. A. visited California fourteen years ago, and Dan Richey's father was its owner and manager. Occupying rising ground from the heart of the city — as its name Casa Loma — the House on the Hill — implies, it commands a magnificent view of the valley and snow-capped mountains and is within easy walking distance of the shops, depots, and churches. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 77 At an expenditure of $40,000 during the past year, all the latest and most modern equipments, for the comfort and convenience of the guests have been introduced. The broad veranda with easy chairs, the shady lawns and sun-parlors are available to those who wish simply to rest, while 300 sunshiny days out of the year aliford ample opportunity for all sorts of out door amusements — as automobile trips, horseback riding, coaching, tennis and golf. The trout fishing in the nearby mountain brooks is exceedingly good. The social life is a feature that is carefully looked after, and there is nowhere a resort which otters its guests such a varietv of entertainment and ll,.li.-.i^ l;. Milan. 1.^ wholesome amusement, and while the service is all of the very highest order, the rates are extremely moderate. Situated at the foot of the snow-capped JNIt. San Bernardino among the orange groves, Redlands is by many regarded by far the most charming and healthful spot in all Southern California. There is practically neither fog, dampness or high winds. The encircling mountains, the rounded distant foothills, the broad valley with its distant stretches of groves where grow the famous Redlands oranges, combine to make up a picture that is worth crossing the continent to see. In fact, there is no end to the attractions of Redlands. There are delight- ful drives in and around the city, among them being the famed Smiley Heights and Prospect Park drives, with their tropical luxuriance of trees and flowers. 78 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The interior of the Casa Loma is charming. Its delightfully homey lobby, with its elegant and artistic furnishings, opens off a spacious veranda, from which a scene of semi-tropic luxuriance and harmonious beauty is obtained. One of the latest pleasures afforded in Redlands is the "Sunset Drive." This drive is fifteen miles long, mainly over a specially graded automobile road, over private property, and made and owned by a few of the enter- prising and wealthy citizens. To attempt here, to describe this drive, is impossible. Suffice it to say that it will ere long become as world famous as the Del Monte Seventeen Mile Drive. It takes one through the orange and lemon groves, gradually ascending, until on the hills overlooking the city and valley one has expansive views in every direction, and surely no fertile valley scene in the world can equal that which includes Redlands, Uplands, Highlands, Highgrove, Riverside and such noted places. But here the rugged and majestic peaks of San Bernardino and San Gorgonio, tower- ing nearly 12,000 feet into the pure blue California sky, and clad in winter with dazzling white snow add a dignity to the picture, while a little farther on one looks down into wild, rugged and uncultivated canyons and areas as different from the other view as association with a rude Chinese fisherman is different from that with a polished scholar. Yet both are equally inter- esting. Returning, the visitor may go through Smiley Heights, that paradise reclaimed from just such rugged and wild slopes as those we have been gazing upon, showing the marvelous resources of this soil and climate, when combined with directing brains and properly applied moisture. Forest Home A few miles from Redlands, in the heart of the San Bernardino moun- tains, is a most beautiful and restful resort, known as Forest Home. It is not a place for fashionable people, but for the sensible men and women who enjoy doing the real work of life. Nearby are the two great mountains of Southern California, San Bernardino, 10,800 feet, and San Gorf^onio, 11,600 feet, and on the south is the Yucaipe range, covered with a dense pine forest. There are ninety miles of mountain trail to ride and walk over, including the new Forest Reserve trail reaching from Mill Creek over the Yucaipe range, which affords a glorious sweep of view over the valley towards the Pacific and comprising many villages and towns. At Forest Home there are excellent fishing, hunting, tennis, and a special feature is the evening campfire, where old-timers and others tell fascinating stories of the wilds, of the past pioneer days, etc. Entertain- ments of an elevating and intellectual order are constantly provided. Cottages and tents are provided, so that one has his choice of method of life, and the rates are reasonable enough to accommodate all pockets. Half-furnished tents also are provided for those who wish to do light ■housekeeping. The stage leaves Redlands daily, calling also at Mentone, on the Santa Fe, three-quarters of an hour later. The personnel of the Forest Home TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 79 Outing Co. is as follows : F. J. Culver, President and Manager, Forest Home; Leslie F. Gay, Vice-President, Los Angeles; F. H. Clock, Secretary. Redlands; \V. B. Johnson, Treasurer, Rcdlands; J. F. Rockhold, Riverside. Mrs. M. C. Peck is the superintendent. Loma Linda Sanitarium On a hill — as its name signifies — just on the outskirts of Redlands, stands the Loma Linda Sanitarium, one of the rest and health retreats of Southern California and one of the most beautiful spots in the ^ttf^^^^^S^^^^^S^^^^Ssl/^^^^^^^^^^KMi^'^^^^r ^^^Ffl s^E.^ ^3r^ ' aaW^^^^^wm'TfflT'.-:^ .- a IPII^HH^^^^Hk'-,'' ',^^^/^^^^B \^^^^BS^^B3Zi^^^jy^iJi t €\t:a ^ *'--.' TT^ ^-i: '^ i. ■■'..'5 ';.<^-v!f^ *. T( The orange orchards seen from the window.s ol' the Loma Linda Sanitarium, near Redlands. Tal. western world. Completely surrounded by vineyards, orange and lemon groves, which carry the eye along to the foothills of the majestic mountain ranges that encircle the valley, it is one beauty feast after another, until mind and imagination are captured by the snow-clad peaks which pierce the clouds. This sanitarium is one of the forty-two similar institutions, scattered throughout nineteen States of the United States and twelve foreign countries. All these sanitariums are conducted under the auspices of the "Sanitarium Association," whose headquarters are at Takoma Park, Washington, D. C. They are really under the control of the Seventh Day Adventist Church. This church, whose leader and prophetess is ]\Irs. White, holds that health TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST SI is a religious duty, and they Ijeliexc that the natural methods of simple living', natural diet, abstinence from flesh meats, all peppers, sauces, condi- ments, etc.. all alcolii.ilic lit|uors is the only true method. In these sanitar- iums the\' teach those who are well how to remain so, and to assist those whe) ha\'e lost health to regain it. Rational measures will often accomplish much, even in extreme cases. There are certain simple metheids of living, and of treatment, which are certain of results. These are Nature's methods. If all would regard natural laws, barring possiblv heredity and accident, all would be well. When health has been lost, however, it can usually be regained by following natural methods. The proper use of pure air, light, heat, cold, electricity, water, and food, together AX'ith exercise and rest, will work wonders for the restoration of health, even after other methods fail. These should have first place in every treatment and not be left to the last. Thev also believe that the scientific application of heat and cold is one of the surest and quickest ways of giving relief from pain and restoring health. Heat and cold are most easily manipulated through the agency of water, hence hydrotherapy in its varied applications is extensively used in these sanitariums. Baths of all kinds, sprays and douches, vapor and steam applications, packs and fomentations, salt rubs and friction, are a few of the means employed for their therapeutic value in treating disease. Mechanotherapy, including massage, manual movements, rubs and vibra- tions is applied by trained assistants. Phototherapy, consisting of electric light baths, arc light, finscn light, ultra violet ray. solar ray. is employed. Electricity and exercise also are constantly used. But it is more in their mental therapeutics that this institution differs from others. They believe that true mental healing comes through harmony of the mind with the Great Healer. A Christian atmosphere pervades all the work of these institutions. This is one of the greatest aids to recovery. When a person is at peace with God. he is at peace with his surroundings and with himself. A sound mmd in a sound body is the end to be sought. The sanitarium at Loma Linda is one of the best, and I have spent many happv hours there both for treatment and rest. The management is as near perfect as things human ever become, and the air of kindness and friendliness throughout from the lowest to the highest is in itself a pleasure and a com- fort to meet with. We have no desire to wish that any member of the H. M. M. B. A. be ill. but we can sincerely say that should any member be so unfortunate, or any reader of these words, there is nothing better that we could commend to them than that they, at once, place themselves under the healin<>- care of the iihvsicians at Loma Linda. Loma Linda Sanitarium, California, looking across the San Bernardino Valley to the San Bernardino snow-clad mountains. The city of Redlands partially in view. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 83 Riverside From Redlantls the three trains went on to Riverside for dinner, and there, while seated in the refectory of the world-famed Glenwood Mission Inn. George \Miarton James, at the request of Frank Miller, the onlv, the most beloved hotelman of California, gave words of greeting and hearty welcome to all the visitors. He spoke of the hospitality of the mission padres; how that in the old days their missions and simple homes were open to all who came along without money and without price, and that, while times have now changed so that there has to be a monetary return. Under tlie Pergola in tlie Ptitin at Glenwood Mission Inn. Rix'erside. Cal, the hos]Mtality of l-'rank Miller, and his estimable sister, Mrs. Alice Rich- ardson, is just as hearty, spontaneous and sincere as that of the jjadres, whose spirit, if not their mantles, have assuredly fallen upon them. To every guest at the Gleenwood (and who of the H. M. M. I!. .\. was not a guest), an envelojje was given containing a book of welcome, full of dainty pictures of the hotel and surroundings, several characteristic pieces of literature, and the following letter, printed on Glenwood Mission Inn stationery: April 11. 191(1. Dear One; Tills is just to say good-bye. I iiic-an it. Good-bye forever. Slnit up the old shop tor me: pull down the ancient sign: put a special delivery stamp on the baby and start ■ I9H ^^1 ^^1 HF^ ^9|^^^^^^H ^^M [y y^ .J^ ^^^^^1 M ^ ^C^H^H ii^ i^^^^l ; If /^ Frank A. .Miller. ■■The- Ma^t.-r Mt' Ui-' Inn, Rixerside, Cal. r)i\\ i Missinn Ir.n TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 87 lier coming this way. WF. HAVE FOUND THE GARDEN OF EDEN. Under the revised spelling it is pronounced "RIVERSIDE." The grapevines have oozed for us; orange blossoms have shed their fragrance over us; flowers are nodding to us; Cali- fornia skies smile down upon us. WE ARE LOST TO THE EAST FOREVER! Whew! If Wash. Irving were alive he would have the plates of "The Alhambra" destroyed, and. coming here, would see a building affording material for a REAL BOOK. This is IT. The chimes of the Campanile (notice the word!) have pealed their welcome, the harp notes float gently on the air, the colors of the roses and parrots enrich tlie "Patio." a Spanish meal is before us. Let Teddy have his visit with Wilhelm— we don't care — we are with Frank Miller, Master of the MISSION INN. He and every Californian seems glad to see us. The Sliermun Institute — Indian Seliool, Riverside.. Cal. F. M. Conser, Superintendent. OUR EDDIE has just telegraphed to burn down the Marlborough. Fred. Reed took one look, got New York on the 'pkone and has just announced joyously that he could hear the walls of the Park View fall. Sh! He has just risen to express apprecia- tion. I doubt if even his oratory can do justice. He will be partly in his element though — "You can't tell the truth about California unless you lie about it." Lovingly yours. P. S. — Tell all the youngsters to come here for their nuptials. This combination of wedding bells and orange blossoms should be required for every service. It was the Court of the ^ilission Inn the Prophet spoke of when he said "Marriages are made in Heaven." Then followed an automobile ride down IVIagnoIia and Victoria Avenues to the Sherman Institute — the architecturally beautiful school and home for Indians, now superintended by Mr. E. W. Conser, who has been in the TO CALII'ORXIA AXl) THE PAlll'lC CUAST 8!) Indian ser\ice. in honored and responsible positions, for man\- years. Alanv orange groves were visited and some of the guests had the privilege afforded them for the first time in their history of picking oranges direct from the trees. The crowning delight was the ride through Huntington Park to the summit of Mount Rubidoux, upon which Host Miller has had erected a Mission Cross and a tablet in honor of Fra Junipero Serra, the founder of the California Missions. Here is what I'"ra E]l)crtus savs of Serra: Among the world's great workers — and in the front rank there have been only a scant hah'-dozcn — stands Fra Junipero Serra. This is the man who made the California Missions possible. In artistic genius, as a teacher of handicrafts, and as an industrial leader, he per- formed a feat unprecedented, and which probably will never again be equaled by a single man. In a few short years he caused a great burst of beauty to bloom and blossom, where before was only a desert waste. The personality of a man who could not only convert to Christianity three thousand Indians, but who could set them to work, must surely be sublimely great. Not only did they labor, but they produced art of a high order. These missions which lined the coast from San Francisco to San Diego, every forty miles, were manual-training schools, founded on a religious concept. Junipero taught that, unless you backed up your prayer with work, God would never answer your petitions. .And the wonderful transformations which this man worked in characters turned on the f.ict that he made them acceptable and beautiful. Here is a lesson for us! F'ra Junipero Serra ranks with Saint Benedict, who rescued classic art from the dust of time and gave it to the world. Junipero is one with .\lbrecht Durer, Lorenzo the Magniticent, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, F^riedrich Froebel, John Ruskin and William Morris. These men all taught the Gospel of Work, and the Sacredness of Beauty and Use. Junipero was without question the greatest teacher of manual training which tliis continent has so far seen. Without tools, apparatus or books, save as he created them, he evolved an architecture and an art, utilizing the services of savages, and trans- forming these savages in the process, for the time at least, into men of taste, industry and economy. That this miracle of human energy and love could not endure, and that after Fra Junipero had passed out, there being none to take his place, the Indians relapsed into their racial ways, was to be expected. When Junipero reached California he was fifty-three years old. He died at seventj'- one, so his life's work was compressed into the short space of eighteen years, or from seventeen liundred si.\ty-nine to seventeen hundred eighty-seven. On Mount Rubidou.x, at Riverside, there has been erected a giant cross, eighteen feet high, in commemoration of Fra Junipero. Here he often used to come and pray when the sun went down. This heroic cross outlined against the sky, with its setting amid the mighty rocks, is a most impressive sight, symboling to us the seeming barrenness and sorrow of the man's life. Yet down below, stretching away on every hand, are smiling, peaceful orange-groves, from which, blown, on the night breeze, comes to us the sweet perfume of perpetual blossoms. Thus, with the life of this unselfish soul, in spite of seeming failure, his prayer for beauty has been answered. The little city of Riverside, with its world-famous Mission Inn, perpetuates the life of F>a Junipero in fra.grant remembrance. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 91 In tlie great "Sunset Cross" has been set a bronze tablet, and upon it are these words: The Beginning of Civilization in California FRA JUXIPERO SERRA Apostle Legislator Builder To Commemorate His Good Works This Tablet Is Hereby Placed Unveiled by William Howard Taft, 27th President of the United States, October 12, A. D. 1909 The guiding spirit in this good work of keeping alive the best in the mission spirit is Frank A. Miller. Master of the Mission Inn. No visitor to California should fail to visit beautiful Riverside and see with what lavish love the Millers have expressed, without being slavish imitators, this passion for beauty that once filled the heart of Junipero. The new monastery that Host ]\Iiller has just completed was pronounced a wonder, and with its crypt banquet rooms, organ, assembly-room, under- ground corridors with exquisite paintings of the Missions, roof gardens and open-air sleeping-rooms, is indeed one of the most unique and interesting hotel annexes in the world. One of the best descriptions ever written of the Glenwood Mission Inn is the following by John Willey of the "Hotel ^ilonthly," Chicago: "Here is surely something out of the ordinary ; a place the like of which we had never seen. A medley of old times ; a fantastic architectural dream ; an old curiosity shop transformed into a house of commercial hospitality ; a lazy man's paradise. "We enter the cotirtyard under an old mission arch with bells in its belfry ; fronting us is an adobe structure in the center of the court, and circling it the quaint rambling inn, with wide stone porches, pergolas, gabled windows, balconies, tiled roof; shade trees in the foreground; shrubs, flowers, vines in riotous profusion; here and there time-battered directing- posts with inscriptions in the lettering of a hundred years ago; a stone fountain flowing cool, clear water; parrots calling from the trees; rustic seats of wood and stone with comfortable cushions inviting to rest at every hand. "Inside, the odd effect is intensified. Curious pieces of bric-a-brac, col- lected from all over the world, decorate the walls and ceilings. At the dining-room door you hang your hat upon a saber point. The lights gleam from iron bells. Old settlcfs, mantels, sideboards, window seats, desks, cabi- nets, pictures, tapestries, spinning wheels, conceits in wrought iron ; Japanese, Chinese and Roycroft goods — there is no enumerating the oddities that meet the ej-e. In the bedrooms it is much the same. A heathen god looked down upon our bed from a niche in the mantel ; and Stephenson's praver. in odd frame, spoke eloquently from the wall. We were awakened in the morning l)y the music of a hundred song birds caged in a large 92 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. .M. B. A. enclosure over the main entrance. Chimes played in the belfrv. Another day had followed refreshing sleep. "Glenwood Inn has about 300 rooms. The atmosphere is that of rest. 'Xext to love, quietness." is one of the many mottoes posted about the house. The service is quiet, and so near perfect as we have found it anywhere. In the dining-room there are conceits in the service that please the fastidious. Old blue china is used. The chairs are as you like them,, with or without arms. At the door are baskets of oranges with 'help yourself invitation. The waitresses are summoned by bell signal. Quaint sideboards line the brick-pointed walls around the room ; and the tray rests are covered with linen cloths. Japanese boys do the carrying and cleaning. The billiard room and lounge are located in the adobe." Leaving Riverside, the three specials went on to Los Angeles, where the guests were allowed to rest, preparatory to the annual meeting on the morrow. CHAPTER III TUESDAY, APRIL 12. 1910; THE ANNUAL MEETING IN LOS ANGELES The thirty-first annual meeting of the H. M. M. 1'.. A. was held in the Convention Hall of the Westminster Hotel, on Tuesday, April 12, 1910, there being about seventy members present. President P'red Van Orman in the chair. Before the official proceedings commenced, Henry J. Hohn, of Chicago, presented President \'an (Jrnian with a fine gavel, with the compliments of the Nelson-AIatter P'urniture Company. The hotelmen were warmly welcomed, first by John S. Mitchell, president of the Southern California Hotel Men's Association, whose excellent speech opened the way for j\Iayor George Alexander, of Los Angeles. In his address of welcome his honor expatiated on the growth and de\elopnient of the city, and what was in store for the visiting hotelmen and ladies. In order to gain time, the reading of the minutes of the last annual meeting was omitted, and President Van Orman gave his address, which was well received : PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS \\"e ;ire thirty-one years old; nearly one-third of a century. That is the best period of any man's life. Take from it thirty-one years, there are twenty-iive years of immaturity left on one side, and twenty-five years of decline on the other. These thirtj'-one years have been the most significant from the standpoint of travel and liotel interests in the history of the human race. In this time the railroads of our country have been doubled in their extent and influence; the hotels have increased in even a greater ratio, and commercial development has marked the period beyond the concep- tion and comprehension of the human mind. During this time have come into practical use the hotel elevator, steam heat, the electric light, mechanical refrigeration, telephone, vacuum cleaner, the electric railroad, the phonograph, the automobile, and now the flying machine. It has been a wonderful, a marvelous age of material and commercial progress, and with it has grown the enormous system of hotels. To the greatest credit of the men who build and construct hotels, hotel construction, hotel equipment and hotel operation has more than kept pace with all the other industries of the country. Here in this land of sunshine, of flowers, of blossoms, of semi-tropical fragrance; under these genial skies, where nature and man join in a lavish hospitality unknown to other climes and regions, many of us far from home, we once more hold our convention. .And yet, my friends, it is not a convention, but a family reunion, a reunion of the Boniface family. We have met each year for thirty-five years. Thirty- one times have we been reunited. Looking back, what a vista of years! What memories are awakened of former reunions, former entertainment, former hospitality! And these memories become tempered with a feeling of sweetest sadness as we recall the founders and leaders of the organization of former years, who, one by one, have dropped from the list, who have passed into the shadows of the beyond, remaining with ns only in fondest memory, which these yearly associations serve to recall. With some of us these reunions have been life events, life experiences; deep, 94 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. AI. M. U. A. impressive, lasting. These H. M. M. B. A. conventions have served many times to develop in us the elevating tendencies and emotions; we have been taught the gentlest consideration and friendship, and "The place where two friends first meet is sacred to them all through their friendship, and is all the more sacred as their friendship deepens and grows old." while Dr. Samuel Johnson has said that "If a man does not make new acquaintances as he advances through life, he will soon find himself left alone." The H. M. M. B. A. has made us a fraternity; it has created us into a brotherhood, and to meet and mingle each year, to note the changes, the progress or decline of those with us in the organization is to broaden our conceptions of life, bury rivalry and jealousy, bid care and worry begone, and refresh the fountain of life. Who can estimate the result! The Westminster Hotel. Lcs Angeles, where the annual meeting was heltl. How strange, how inconsiderate, how unworthy in many of us that at the end of the year we examine only the trial balance which shows our loss and profits; our liabilities and assets in material things, while we make no inventory of the loss or growth in our stock of kindness, well doing, generosity, helpfulness to others, or note the increase or decline in those things that mean the most in this life? The crowning feature of our association is that its only business element partakes of the highest attributes of the human soul — that of giving to the needy; it is a union founded for the purpose of providing for those who may be left in unfortunate circumstances through the inevitable law of death. The H. M. M. B. A. has indeed made us better men, better hotelmen, and we have only to remember that the beneficiaries of our efiforts rejoice because we exist, and that in giving it is not the one who receives, but the giver, who experiences the greatest benefit or pleasure from the act. TO CALIFORXIA AXl) THE PACIFIC COAST 95 Many of us who pay our little assessments seldom remember that we are conducting a business involving thousands upon thousands of dollars annually, that the machinery of the organization is ever in motion, and tliat it must be watched, must be cared for, must have a guiding power. This management, as you all know, is vested in the board of directors, which for thirty-one years has met so faithfully monthly in Chicago. Since you have elected me to the presidency I have made some little study of organi- zations of this kind, only to find that my estirnate and esteem of the H. M. M. B. A. and its workings are even higher tlian before. Age considered, the H. M. M. B. A. is certainly a }'Oung and strong organization, which seems, to a degree at least, to avoid the fate marked for older, larger and stronger organizations of a like character. Having no salaried officers, except a secretary and treasurer; conducted on lines economical and conservative to the last degree, with a board of directors who give it their time and thought absolutely free of cost, the H. M. M. B. A. stands alone among the mutual organizations in America. Nothing can bring out more strongly this fact than to make a comparison of our organization with some of the older and larger mutual life insurance associations. The cost for membership for the past five years in the H. M. Jil. B, A. has been as follows: For members between the ages of 21 and 30 years, only $15.50 per thousand; members from 30 to 40 years of age, $21.00 per thousand; members from 40 to 50 years of age, $28.00 per thousand; members SO to 60 years of age, $29.00; members over 60 years of age, only $30.00 per thousand. Let us take the cost to a member who joined in 1893 at the age of 31 and has therefore been a member seventeen years. The average cost for that period for $1,000.00 insurance has been only $25.00 per annum. Take my own case; I joined in 1889, and have therefore been a member twenty-one years, and am proud to state I have attended twenty annual meetings. The average cost during that period has been only $26.50 per annum for $1,000.00 worth of insurance. One of our brothers, who had been a member for twenty-nine years, died March 4th, and his average annual dues had been only $25.70. For a part of that period he had an insurance of $1,800.00, $1,500.00, and more recently of $1,200.00. No insurance company or fraternal organization on earth can make a better showing. This member died March 4, 1910, and on April 6th the board of directors ordered the amount of the policy paid the beneficiary. I have in mind a member who told me the other day that his insurance for the last year in the National Union cost him $42.00, as against a cost of $29.00 in the H. M. M. B. A. I have here a report that is still more significant. It shows that from January 1, 1897, to January 1, 1909, two of the leaders among fraternal organizations yield the following figures: Royal Arcanum Deaths Average cost 1897 Deaths Average cost 1908 in 1897 per member in 1908 per member 1,812 $28.05 3,210 $34.93 Knights of Honor 2,233 $41.82 1.044 $75.97 The continued success of our association depends upon individual co-operation. I shall always remember the address delivered by ex-President Davis of Boston at Palm Beach, Fla., in which he referred to the question of employing paid solicitors. As I remember it. Mr. Davis stated that such solicitation was contrary to the spirit of fraternity, and if allowed, would result in the members themselves losing interest in the association and that it would soon decay. This address was delivered eight years ago, when the association had a menibcrsliip of just over one thousand. Our member- irectors of the H. M. M. B. A. for many years. and prosperity unknown almost in mutual life insurance fraternities. Full credit should be given any president, officer or member who succeeds in adding new members Gentlemen, new members are worth just so much in dollars and cents; this is not a question of sentiment, but purely a business proposition. New, young members have a money value; they mean a lower cost of insurance and a positive sum is assured the beneiiciaries. New and young members are our assets. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 97 Gentlemen, we meet for the second time in California. Those of us who were here in 1896 recall the magnificent reception, the boundless hospitality that marked our sojourn then; it is as fresh in our memories as if it had happened yesterday. We who have met year after year, with each returning reunion seemingly surpassing the one preceding it, all realize that in no other country, under no other skies in this wonderful nation, is it possible to unife where there is so much of health, so much of beauty, so much of pleasure, enjoyment and true hospitality as in the great Golden State of California. The Secretary-Treasurer, J. K. Blatchford, then read his report, showing a present membership of one thousand four hundred and eighty-seven, and that $744,946 liad been paid to beneficiaries up to date, and that the Asso- ciation now has $49,015 in the reserve fund. The reports of the Finance Committee and the chairman of the Board of Directors (Mr. A. L. Severance) were read and all were adopted. Other reports were received from H. L. Brown for New England, Fred A. Reed for New York, W. A. Reist for tlie Middle States, and A. L. Severance for the Northwestern States, all auxiliar\' directors. After a short recess the election of officers was in order, and H. L. Brown of Boston placed in nomination John S. Mitchell, proprietor of the Hollenbeck Hotel, Los Angeles, and president of the Southern California Hotel Men's Association. The mere mention of Mr. Mitchell's natne aroused the greatest enthusiasm, and a unanimous acclamation proclaimed him as the man for the place of honor. Mr. ]\Iitchell made an appropriate reply for the honor thus conferred. Harrj- L. Brown, Victoria Hotel, Boston, was now nominated for First Vice-President by E. L. Tierney, and he was unanimously elected, and on motion of W. \\'. Davis of Boston, J. K. Blatchford was unanimously re-elected to the position of Secretary and Treasurer. The old Board of Directors was re-elected, which is as follows: John C. Roth, resident manager Great Northern Hotel, and assistant manager Congress Hotel, Chicago; George W. Reynolds, Chicago; George A. Lougee, proprietor Park Hotel, IVIadison, \\^is., and New Kimball House, Atlanta, Ga. ; E. S. Pinney, Chicago; F"rank Upman, Chicago; William H. ^^'orth, proprietor Hotel Albany. Chicago; F. W. Rice, Chicago; Henry J. Bohn, publisher the "Hotel ^^'orld," Chicago; John S. Mitchell, ex-officio, Los Angeles, Cal. ; J. K. Blatchford, ex-officio, Chicago. That the H. M. ]\I. B. A. is far from being homeless was shown by invitations extended the hotelmen for the next annual meeting, received from Atlantic^ City. Boston and St. Louis. The one from Boston was emphasized 6y the fact that Harry L. Brown, auxiliary director, was backed by the New England Hotel Men's Association, the Massachusetts Hotel IMen's Association, the Boston Hotel Men's Association, and by the mayor of Boston. Not following the usual custom, it was decided, then and there, that Boston be accepted as the place for the next meeting. 98 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. .M. II. A. Harry Loomis, Hotel Angelus, Los Angeles, Cal. CHAPTER IV LOS ANGELES, THE CITY OF THE QUEEN OF THE ANGELS \\'hile the Association was in annual convention, the ladies of the 11. .M. M. B. A. met at Hotel Rosslyn. and were shown about the shopping district in automobiles and in small walkint^ parties under the guidance of a committee of local women, of whom the chairman was j\Irs. Dwight Hart. All seemed surprised with the size and excellence of the Los Angeles stores and shops, and were unstinted in their praise of them. During the afternoon a tour of the residence districts was made by the whole party in automobiles. Starting from the Lankershim Hotel, at Sev- enth and Broadway, they were taken back through the business section and to Elysian Park, from there on through the park and along the northwestern border of the city to Westlake Park, then through the Wilshire b<;iulevard tract and West Adams street district back to their hotels. Without exception the visitors were entranced with the Ijcauties of Los Angeles, its fruits and flowers, and the beautiful view of the surrounding country from Elysian Park. All along the way the motor cars were stopped to allow the visitors to alight and take pictures of the beautiful homes and scenes. Naturally, those who were here fourteen years ago expressed their great surprise at the wonderful changes that have taken place — changes that make Los Angeles unique in the history of American cities — for no city in the country has sho\vn so rapid an increase in population as has Los Angeles in these fourteen years. A study of the hotels alone showed the marvelous change, and the visitors went from one to another, more and more impressed with the possibilities of this wonderful western city by the Sundown Sea. Hollenbeck Hotel As the Hollenbeck was the H. M. Al. B. A. headquarters fourteen years ago, many wished to visit that first. At that time it was the largest and finest hotel in the city. At the head of it was Albert C. Bilicke, then, as now^ the leading hotelman of Southern California. In the past fourteen years Mr. Bilicke has moved forward with rapid strides. He invested largely in local real estate, all of which doubled and tripled in value. His holdings were in the center of the city, and among these holdings was the present site ol the Hotel Alexandria. 100 l^HE 1910 TRIF' OF THE H. M. AI. H. A. But he kept his eyes on the Hollenljeck, and when his rapidly increasing responsibihties took his personal attention he associated with himself Johi". S. jMitchell, a wealthy and able business man. who. as vice-president and manager of the hotel company, devotes all his energy and time to the The Hollenbeck Hotel, Second and Spring Sts., Los Angeles, Cal. Hollenbeck. In fact, Mr. Bilicke's interests have grown so great that he devotes very little personal attention to the details of his two large hotels, leaving these to his able associates. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE I'ACIFIC COAST 101 The HolknI)eck llotti is located in tin- very heart of the city, at Spring and Second streets, and while it is usually considered the commercial hotel of the city, it has done, and is still doinsi'. a very large tourist business. It it familiarly called "the Astor Mouse of the West." There has recently been expended upon this hotel about $30,000 in improvements, which has placed it in perfect condition and up-to-date in every respect. The Hollenbeck has long had the reputation of being the best paying hotel in California and therewith enjoys the greatest popularity. The house has 500 rooms, with five annexes facing Spring, Second and Broadway. The Hollenbeck cafe is the most popular restaurant of Southern Cali- fornia, patronized alike by citizen and stranger, as it has achieved a wide reputation for cuisine and service. It is the scene Ijoth in the large dining-room and in the private dining- room of many notable banquets, many clubs making this their home because of the excellent provision and service afforded. Mr. Mitchell, the vice- president and manager, was president of the Southern California Hotel Association at the time of the visit of the H. M. M. B. A. He is also a director of the Chamber of Commerce, and known to every one in the city as one of the leading business men. Henry J. Bohn, of the Hotel World, thus writes of the accompanying engraving" of the Hollenbeck Hotel : The illustration of the Hollenbeck presents a scene which the H. M. M. I'l. A. did not behold, because the great aviation meeting was over. \\"hcthcr these balloons and flying machines hovered over the Hollenlieck during that meeting the reader is left to judge for himself! Certainly they look like the real thing in action. It is not too much to expect that fourteen vears hence, when the H. M. AI. B. A. goes to California for the third time, they will go in ships something like the one seen hovering at the edge of the roof line of the Hollenbeck, which is carrying a big bunch of people, and the streamer flying at the stern might readih' bear the legend : "Chicago-California H. M. 3>I. B. A. Special. 1924. The Lowe Planet Air- ship." Of course, Mr. Mitchell will be right there on the roof to welcome the hotel people who attend the forty-fifth annual meeting! He and Mr. Bilicke will probably look a trifle more mature than now, just as we fellows who went out there fourteen years ago are now riper than we were then. ( )ne thing seems assured, and that is that no matter how many new hotels will be built in Los Angeles the next fourteen years, the Hollenbeck will be right at the old stand doing the biggest business in the l)unch. The name Hollenbeck and Los Angeles are inseparably linked in the magical development of the great Southern California metropolis. 102 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. il. A. Thomas Pascoe, Hotel Fremont, Los Angeles. Thomas Pascoe was born in England in the year ] 853. For seven years lie was a. steward in the British Navy, serving on some of the largest men-of-war. In 1S70, when the clash occurred between the monarchical and papal powers in Italy the man-of-war on which he served was sent to Naples for the protection of British subjects. It then went to Athens, where Pascoe saw the execution of twelve notorious brigands. In 1871 he was present at the opening of the Suez Canal by Napoleon, and on that trip, as well as others, he catered for many of the world's great men. When 25 years of age he came to the United States, and was engaged in New York and in Montana. In 1875 lie opened Pascoe's Hotel and Restau- rant in Colorado Springs, which he ran for six years; then removing to California, he con- ducted the Grand Hotel in Ukiali, and the Rose at Pleasanton. In 1884 he reached Los Angeles, where the Clifton was built for him. Then he took the Lincoln and ran it for sev- eral years until he organized the Hotel Fre- mont' Co., which built the magnificent Hotel Fremont in 1903. which he opened and fur- nished and has conducted ever since. He Is a director of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, and was police commissioner for a term. For two years he was president of the Southern California Hotel Association. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 103 Fremont Hotel One of the most prominent entertainers fourteen years ago was Thomas Pascoe, then of Hotel Lincohi. now of the Fremont Hotel, so many went to visit him there. The Fremont Hotel is located on the corner of Fourth and Olive streets, Los Angeles. It is one block from the center of business, on a prominent corner away from noise and dust, and one block from street cars, but close to all the public places of amusement, theaters, churches, etc. It is a magnificent structure of six stories, constructed of brick, steel lath and cement, built after the California style of Mission renaissance. The ground plan of the building is in the shape of a huge letter L ; the windows to the west look toward the ocean and gardens, while the windows of the north, east and south embrace all the cit}^ and mountains. Hotel Fremont, Los Angeles. The Structure looks like a mighty castle crowning the most conspicuous hill in the city. The Fremont, owing to its elevated ]Kisition. commands a fine panorama of the city and surrounding country from its large square windows. Each one frames a perfect and unrivaled picture of mountain and at the same time invites floods of healthful and invigorating California sunshine into its apartments, which are particularly designed for light and pleasant outlook. The interior is well arranged in suites of rooms with private baths and single rooms. It is the only hotel in the city with every room facing the sun. The chambers are beautifully and tastefully furnished in the latest styles 104 THE 1010 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. R. A. and of the best materials. Each one has hot and cold running water, large closets, electric lights, gas and telephone. Steam heated throughout. The halls are wide, with large windows, giving plenty of light and air, and are fitted with fire escapes and protection of the latest design. The office is on the ground floor — also the billiard room, writing rooms, electric elevator, etc. The ladies' parlor and receptions rooms are on the first floor, which leads out onto a broad veranda facing the street and city park. The dining-room is a large room, well ventilated, with open windows on each side, the northeast facing the street and the southwest facing a flower garden, which is tastefully laid out, thus affording an attractive view while at meals. The hotel was opened on September 9, 1902 (admission day of the State), and was named after the pathfinder. General John C. Fremont, the man that saved California to the nation. Mrs. Jessie Benton Fremont, his widow, was the first to place her name on its register. Her autograph reads thus: "Jessie Benton Fremont. A\'ith best wishes for success." The crest of the hotel was executed and designed by her. The double F of Louis XIV was adopted by the head of the Fremont family, who was of distinguished French origin, while the ]\Iariposa Butterfly typifies the grant of the Mariposa Rancho in Xorthern California to General John C. I'remont. "Eternal vigilance is the price of safety" was his motto in all his expedi- tions across the deserts and mountains, and that has been adopted as the motto of the hotel, paraphrasing it in actual life into "Eternal vigilance is the price of success in the hotel business." Haywards Hotel The Haywards Hotel is one of the latest additions to hoteldom in Los Angeles. It was built in 1906 by Mr. H. C. Fryman, and is one of the few absolutely fireproof hotels in the State. The floors are of cement and the walls of cement and fireproof brick, unburnable and strong. There is no wood whatever used in the construction save for the doorways and windows. Originally with 230 rooms, it was soon necessary to add twenty more, and now a new annex is being completed with fift\- more rooms. The Haywards is unique in the fact that from the start it has been crowded every day with scarce a line of advertising, for Mr. Fryman had already achieved such a reputation with the commercial fraternity that they at once flocked to his new standard, and have stayed steadily with him. crowding his hotel three hundred and sixty-five days in the year. H. C. FRYMAN. Harry C. Fryman was a New Year's Day gift to his fatlier and motlier in tlie year 1S76. at Wapakonetta. Anglaize county, Oliio. In 1S93 he came to California and at once entered into liotel life at Echo Mountain House on the ^Jount Lowe Railway. His advancement was marlied and rapid, his next work being assist- ant to Manager H. R. Warner, &t the San Gabriel Hotel. Then for a year he was assist- ant manager at the Hollenbeck Cafe, after which lie became manager of Echo Moun- tain House, owner of Palms Hotel, Broad- nay, Los Angeles, which he sold out to Hervey Bros., and then opened the Brighton Beach Hotel on Terminal Island, which he owned and nianaged for three years. Returning to Los Angeles lie managed the Van Nuys, Broadway, tor two years, and the Lanlvershim tor one year, when the Havwards Hotel was built for iiini He equipped it througliout and has been its sole and only proprietor for tlie four years of its existence. August 6. ISOO, he was married to Miss May Fon of Los Angeles. He has received many honors from the hotelmen of California, being now the president of the Southern Cahtornia Hotel Association, treasurer of tlie Lo.s Angeles Restaurant Men's Association, and vice-presi- dent of the American Protective Association. Genial, courteous, enterprising, hard-work- ing, gifted with foresight and full ot magnetic enerlv there is nothing ahead of lum m the liotel 'world to which he may not aspire and attain. m bi tn « = s rt o p 4) • > J w o ^' • r- L..G "cm oi^ GOO iSpl-^ (0 ^ 5 30'Sp,cg^ai_js >-•= 5 c >,.§■=§ = ■3 c = "',r-C'C 1. a) •J a! o <« ^» _ c ' s Md Si . _■ ^ 4/ 4) 4)— c oj -: ^ ^f : c ri 3 -3 ■— ^ ^ C ; m j: 0) c3 ' , r o'C ■ it.-,-.*- 3 Kt ; .i •" ^^ 2 : . --■ « 5 ^gs^cj; ;-o2^:: : d W3 1; IJ : .c d — — •— •r, 5 ' a; § CJ o £oSc ■a t- o c ?• d 01 r- ■*-"« 4) M J ■=ss 0) o 3 p -3 O Mi o t- » - 1- Ct , c '^ io d.; d " oj OJ C ( j:d c o d.2H ■"WW ., tfi c .2d& ■C-o.;; s: dj: 108 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Occidental Hotel The Occidental Hotel is one of those quiet, unostentatious and practical hotels that, apparently without effort, captures a large and profitable busi- ness. This means the most thorough and capable management, and no Imtel has any better than the Occidental under Mr. E. H. Hess, and the direct control of the three partners, Mr, George ^^'. \'on Ache and his two sons. Built and opened in 1895, it has so grown that the Broadway was annexed to it in 1908, so that now it reaches through from block to block, from Hill street to Broadway, and covers 120x350, more ground space than any other hotel in Los Angeles. It has 200 rooms, 75 of which have private baths, and runs its own bus to all the depots. With four expert and trained hotelmen controlling its destinies, it is sure that so long as business is to be had they will be able to demand their full share. The Alvarado Hotel. Westlake Park, Los Angele.s, Cal. The Alvarado Hotel The Alvarado Hotel, Sixth and Alvarado streets, is situated in the most sightly and exclusive residence district of Los Angeles, overlooking beautiful West Lake Park, yet at less than ten minutes' distance by street car from the business center of the city. It is one of the newest and most charming of Southern California's ^fission Hotels, The Alvarado is of a tj-pe by itself — a tourist and family hotel. Every luxury of urban life is afforded by its management, every convenience that the most fastidious taste could desire is prnviikd. It is exclusive, high class 110 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. in every way. There is an atmosphere of comfort and quiet good taste about the place that appeals to people of refinement in search of a permanent or temporary abiding place. The Alvarado is a Mission hotel ; its architecture reproduces perfectly this style of construction so appropriate to Southern California, allowing a flood of warm sunshine to brighten every room and affording a delightful outlook. It is specially equipped for caring for automobile parties, and being under the direct management of its owner. Air. Wm. B. Corwin, every department IS kept up to the highest degree of efficiency. Another residential hotel, out in the exclusive \\'estlake District, is C. W. Barker, Hotel Leighton, I^iis Angeles, Cal. C. W. Barker as a hotel manager has an enviable reputation. The fact that for many years he was in the employ of the Florida East Coast Railway Company, as manager of their hotels, at Kenilworth Inn, Asheville, North Carolina, is proof that he understands fully the art of catering to the most exacting class of patrons. For it is a significant fact that only the man who understands the high art of pro- viding a table above criticism can long .satisfy this class of travelers. Mr. Barker's name has become almost a synonym for tlie best class of food, prepared in the most perfect manner and served In excellent styi«'. His entree into Cali- fornia was fortunate in that he had just assumed the inanagement of Paso Robles Hot Springs Hotel when Admiral Evans arrived to take a course of treatment there. His wonder- ful recovery at once brought the Paso Robles Hot Springs and also Mr. Barker into great prominence. TO CALIFORXTA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 111 The Leighton The Leighton Hotel, for a city hotel, has a location seldom equaleil. It stands on a high hill, immediately opposite and overlooking beautiful West- lake Park, with its placid lake on which swans, greese, ducks and many gorgeous-plumaged water-fowl play and bask in the sun, and where trees, ]5alms, shrubs, flowers of a thousand hues, colors and tones give a semi- tropic gayety to the surroundings and afford that charm to the eye that is one of the delights of Southern California. Yet it is right in the heart of the fashionable and exclusive "wilshire" district, also within a few minutes' lide by direct carlines to all the railway depots and the heart of the shopping- districts. Thus the Leighton has all the advantages of the very best of the city with the beauty and quietude of the country, and. as the dining-room and catering are under the direct and personal supervision of j\Ir. Barber. it is pre-eminently a family home, where the most exclusive and particular mav find all their hearts can desire. Hotel Angelus There are two grtat tourist and residential hotels in Los Angeles, that cater solely to the first-class and exclusive elements, and one of these is the Angelus, conducted by the Loomis Bros. It is one of the finest hotel buihl- r/.,Kr':'r»r»r'rnT>;-;-;ri'' -^ T-y>''''y'''rr'f'r r-frrf-' 5a®^aa*.-~-7^^.^===--=. ■ ^ - The Angelus, by Millet. This is an excellent copy ot Millet's masterpiece made by a celebrated European artist, and now occupies an honored place in The Angelus Hotel, Los Angeles, Cal. The Angelus Hotel, Loomis Eros.. Los Angeles. Cal. Charles C. Loomis was born in Weaverville, Trinit.v county. Cal.. November U. 1860. When twenty-one years old he entered the Horton House in San Diego with W. E. Hadley. Just before the boom he bought out Mr. Hadley, and in 18S6 sold the hotel back, again purchas- ing it in 18SS. In 1S89 he started the Alber- niarle, in San Diego, the leading family hotel of the city, which he retained until 1S!I2. when he left the hotel business and went into con- tracting for street paving... But hotel life had got into his blood, so in, 1900 he became man- ager of the Van Nuys Broadway. Los Angeles, for Milo M. Potter, which position he occupied for two and a half years, when he and his brother bought the house, ran it most success- fully for three years, then sold out and bought the Angelus. which they now conduct with honor and profit. Harry Loomis was born October 14, 1S62. at Weaverville. Trinity county, Cal., of parents who were practically pioneers of "the days of old, the days of gold, the days of '49." Weaver- ville was one of the early-day mining camps, but in Harry's youthful days the chief industry had become the cattle business, in which he engaged. To this day he bears the reputation of being one of the finest riders in the West. He entered the hotel business with his brother Charles at the old Horton House. San Diego. They have practically remained together for the past twenty-five years. While both are competent hotelmen in all departments. Harry is more often seen outside than his brother. His genial and open-handed style readily makes friends, and he is the beau ideal of a host for a flrst-class tourist, family and transient hotel. The Angelus has a higher reputation to-day than ever, and this, better than words, speaks of the success of the broth- ers Loomis. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 113 ings in the Southwest, and possesses a most striking and commanding appearance. Tlie cost of the buildings and furnisliings was over $800,000, the equipment being of an especially choice and expensive character. The Turkish rugs alone cost a small fortune, one in front of the elevator in the ladies' parlor being over 700 years old. It is one of the show places of Los Angeles in this regard, and many visitors come to see the expensive and beautiful rugs and the elegant furniture of some of the rooms. There are 300 of these, about 175 with bath, and when the furniture was bought and placed in position it was deemed a lavish extravagance that could never be made to pa}-. For instance there is the "Empire Room." Here is a solid mahogan}^ suite, in pure Empire style, of double bed, massive dressers, table, chairs, etc., surpassing in grandeur and style anything that Napoleon — the creator of the style — ever dreamed of. In the "Colonial Room" is a fine rare old "four-poster," and a carved dresser that would drive a collector crazy. These are the Louis Ouatorze and Louis Seize, and people of exclusive taste wire ahead of their visit engaging these rooms. There are chairs that cost over $100 each, and everything is in harmony with this expenditure. Each of these suites has its own private dining-room fully ecjuipped. Every room in the hotel has outside windows, every suite has bath and every bathroom has an outside window. In the open court there is a sun parlor, and this is a feature not found in many city hotels, and possible only in such a sunny climate as that of Southern California. There is a fine private dining-room, completely equipped with the most modern appliances for perfect service. It is finished in fumed oak, Crafts- man style, and with massive sideboards. This room is open to the sunlight and air, so is as fresh and sweet as though in the open air. The private banquet room, where the ladies of the H. AI. M. l'>. A. held their banquet, will seat about 200 diners, and it was about this number of gaily dressed ladies that enjoyed themselves while the annual banquet was in progress at the Alexandria. On the marble stairway to the mezzanine floor are quiet writing places, where one may be within immediate reach of the office and yet entirely secluded from its noise and bustle. Naturally such a hotel possesses its own ice and refrigeration plant, engine room and all the modern equipment that goes with a strictly first- class hotel. The name of a hotel often has much to do with its success and popu- larity. It does not make a bad hotel good nor assist in the management, but it does often assist in the publicity end of the proposition. When the builders of this hotel selected the name Angelus and purchased a copy of the world-famed picture of the world-famed artist. Millet, as a trade-mark, they did a very clever thing, for not only was the idea original but the subject harmonized with the name of the city and lent a new quality of interest and inc|uiry to hotel names. The copv itself is as perfect as the original, and is by J. F. Goldstein, a man whose work is highly esteemed by experts. TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 115 Hotel Alexandria The headquarters for the great festivities were at the Hotel Alexandria, where registration took place and the programs, banquet tickets, etc., were given out. The cover of the program bears a map of the coast line from San Diego to Eureka, California, and is engraved and printed in gold and black, the ocean in blue. The first page of the program reads: 'Air. H. M. M. B. A. — Here's Southern California — It's yours — Accept it with compli- ments of your host, the Southern California Hotel Men's Association." Along with this program was handed a book of some thirty coupon tickets giving admission to all the festivities of the week, each coupon being headed with "H. M. M. B. A." and at foot the name of the entertaining association, while inside was given the day's or hour's program with time and all neces- sary instructions. Here also was distributed the very handsome badge presented by the hosts. This "official" badge was the real thing. It is made in three parts fastened together with links, the first section being the II. M. M. B. A. badge in gold bronze, the second being the cloisonne reproduction in color of the State flower, the flaming poinsettia. The third section is the coat-of-arms of the city of Los Angeles chased in three colors and reaf the Sierra Madre Clul), of which Mr. Sidney 126 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. TO CALIFORXIA AXI3 THE PACIFIC COAST 127 Xormaii, the editor of the Los Angeles "'Alining Review," is secretary. It was this ckib that planned and snccessfnlly carried ont the National Mining Congress' Thirteenth Annual Convention in Los Angeles, September 26, to October 1, 1910. This club, the tirst mining club ever organized in anv first-class city of the United States, was started in May, 1909. It was designed to make a meeting place for the mining men of the Southwest, and to provide a home of welcome for \-isiting operators from the surrounding mineral country. It now has upwards of 300 members, and is contemplating the erection of a million-dollar clubhouse of its own, which will doubtless come to fruition in due time. SIDNEY NORMAN. Sidney Norman i-ame to Los Angeles a few yeai-s ago to become Mining Editor of tlie Los Angeles "Times." After successfully conduct- ing this work for some time he became the editor and proprietor of the Los Angeles "Min- ing Review," now in its 27tli volume. He was the chief mover in the organization of the Sierra Madre Club, has been its secretary since its inception, and is especiall.v acti\'e in pro- moting its welfare and everything that seelss the interests of the mining men of the South- west. He was the chairman of the Committee of Arrangements for tlie thirteenth convention of the National Mining Congress, and to him more ttian to any otiier one man was owing the great success of that important and influ- ential meeting. E. A. (-Bob") MONTGOMERY Mr. E. A. ("Bob") Montgomery, one of the nii'st iinimlar and widely known mining men of the Southwest wlio now makes his head- quarters in Los Angeles. He located the Montgomery-Shoshone mines at Rhvolite in September. 1904, and, after developing the property to the 300-toot level, sold it for a large sum to Mr. Charles M. Schwab and his associates. With the capital so derived he purchased the Skidoo mines in the Pana- mint Range, in May, 1306, and has spent several hundred thousand dollars in providing the property with a ten-stamp mill and in tjringing water from Telescope Peak. The mine is now producing at the rate of If2.i.000 a month and plans for the enlargCTnent of the plant are under way. Mr. Montgomery first \isited Los Angeles in 1S91, when he was called upon to e.xamine the Silverado mines, in Orange county, and since that time has been a frequent visitor until last year, when he de- cided to remove to the city permanently. He has been engaged in practical mining since 1885, and a great portion of that time has been spent in Nevada and the desert portion of Cal- ifornia. Mr. Montgomer>' maintains offices in the Security Building and is foremost in all public movements designed for the benefit of the mining industry. He is the president of the .Sierra Madre Club. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 129 F. G. Howlaml, late Proprietor La Pintoresca. Pasadena, Cal. F. G. Howland, late proprietor of the Pinto- resca Hotel, is pretty nearly a natiye Califor- nian. having arrived here thirt>*-five years ago. At that time he devoted himself to ranching, making horticulture his chief suit, and gaining such a reputation in and around Los Angeles that he was appointed Quarantine Guardian of Horticulture for the State, which important ofhce he held for twelve or fourteen years. In ISOS he hought Hotel La Pintoresca. but while he gave large attention to the hotel, it can be seen that his chief interest was in the out-door life. In 1309 he was sent for by the Mexican Government to make a study of the conditions and report upon the horticultural and agricultural resources of tlie country, and as the result he has just concluded negotia- tions with the sister republic whereby they give him control of an immense ranch, 97,000 acres in extent, with nine miles of frontage on the coast of Sonora. This land has so favor- able a location that 40.000 acres of it can at once he planted out for alfalfa, which grows profitably without irrigation. Mr. Howland has already made such a pronounced success witli large undertakings that there is no doubt but that this will he another of those fortunate enterprises that will bring him. and those who are wise enough to associate with him. large llnancial returns. 130 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce A visit was made to the Chamber of Commerce, and there, Frank Wig- gins, the most active and well-known civic promoter of California, presented each of the guests with a beautiful souvenir booklet, full of exquisite pictures of Los Angeles and containing" the following: "Front !" By Paul G_yllstrom Front, Los Angeles, front! They're here — Hosts of the land are your guests for to-day. Come to this valley of mellow cheer, , Where fairest sunshine and breezes play. Front, Los Angeles, front! Well, well. Here's Jini and Harry, Bill, Dick and Fred. Many a yarn they will have to tell Of folks and things long out of my head. Front, Los Angeles, front ! Just show Them the room Golden — next to the sky. Fellows, none better, want 'em to know That hospitality's ever our cry. Front, Los Angeles, front I Take that call ; Do it in the good old Los Angeles way. Show that you're King Boniface of them all — Hosts of the land are your guests for to-day. "Front !" "Front" is the word of electric energy which animates Los Angeles in hospitality, in industry, in commerce, in banking, in building by the mile from the mountains to the sea, and in providing princely welcome to all visitors in the Key City of the Sunny Southland. Los Angeles, with present population of 350,000 to 400,000, is at the Front as the most comfortable and enchanting summer resort in the whole world, and it is in Los Angeles that the people of the frigid regions of all countries find greatest delight in sojourning during the winter months. "Front"— In Los Angeles sunstroke is unknown. There are no hot nights. In the shade it is always cool. On the sunny side of the street it is summer; on the shady side will be found the temperature of the spring and fall seasons. A blanket or equal CDvering is necessary every night in summer. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 131 "Front"— Los Angeles, the City of the Angels, is the center of greatest variety of pleasures to be found in the world. From the center of the city it is less than 40 minutes' ride in elegant electric cars to the Pacific Ocean and a dozen splendid seaside resorts, or to the foothills and the mountains and at all points ample provision is made for the entertainment of the people. Surf bathing, fishing, baseball, tennis, golf, polo, marathon contests, and all descriptions of out door sports and pleasures are indulged in the year around. Trips to Catalina Island, the coast, the canyons and mountains woo and charm tourists and residents alike at all seasons. "Front"— Truly, Los Angeles is a wonderful city, unparalleled in growth and energy — not only a summer and winter resort, but one of the most enter- prising industrial and commerical centers of the entire Pacific Slope region. "Front"— Los Angeles is distinguished as the first city in America to hold an Aviation Meet, where the world's record for high flying was broken, with the great events witnessed by hundreds of thousands of people in the month of January under perfect conditions. "Front"- Jot these facts down in your memory, good friends, and welcome visitors to the land of sunshine and flowers : Los Angeles has one of the most influential and hospitable business men's organizations in the land in the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, with its representative membership of three thousand active boosters. This organization is the "Glad Hand" club of Los Angeles and Southern Cali- fornia. It maintains a permanent exhibit of the products of the Southland in its own building, besides keeping up a similar exhibit on a smaller scale at Atlantic Cit}-, and making known the fact that California is on the map at all national and at many of the international expositions. In the parlors of the Chamber all of the distinguished men of the nation and foreign countries who have visited Los Angeles have been given the "Glad Hand" of welcome and addresses of national interest have been delivered. Los Angeles justly prides herself on the size and magnificence of her splendid hotels and other facilities of entertainment. Despite the rapid growth of the city, successful eft'orts have been made in building hotels for the crowds. Even now expenditure of nearly $3,000,000 is being made for the enlargement of present hotels and for the erection of new hotels. Theaters and other places of entertainment day and night abound, and provision is made for trips to the mountains and the sea at all hours, while the allurements of auto journeys over solid roads are irre^^istible. Two iiuportant pages of this booklet read as follows: 132 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. :\I. B. A. A Few Things We Want You to Know That the city of Los Angeles is the most comfortaljle summer resort in the whole world. Sunstroke is unknown. There are no hot nights. In the shade it is always cool. A blanket or equal covering is necessary every night in summer. From the center of the city it is less than 40 minutes ride to the Pacific Ocean and a dozen splendid seaside resorts, or to the moun- tains and an equal number of mountain hotels. There are 13 large theaters open every night in the }ear that among them give at least three matinees daily. There are 30 moving picture shows, and two amusement parks open all the time. There are thirty different trolley trips and a hundred different automobile drives. That Los Angeles is spending $23,000,000 (voted 10 to 1) to bring an abundant supply of pure water 220 miles to the city, and that more and better water, in less time and at less expense than was estimated will be the result about June 1, 1912. Los Angeles will spend from three to five millions in power plants along this great aqueduct, and from the sale of electric power generated will not only pay for all power expenditures, but will also in a very few years (probably by 1923) pay olT the entire debt of $23,000,000 and interest authorized to bring the water. That Los Angeles Harbor at San Pedro, recently ( iiy a vote of 70 to 1) made a part of the city of Los Angeles, is absolutely safe for the largest sea-going vessels and can be entered safely in any kind of weather. That it is the logical harbor for the trade of the Orient, when the Panama canal shall have been completed. The city of Los Angeles has promised to spend $10,000,000 in the next ten years on the further improvement of this great harbor. That Los Angeles County voted (3 to 1 ) and is now spending $3,500,000 for a permanent system of good roads connecting the citv with every part of the county. In Los Angeles County at Los Angeles, San Gabriel and San Fernando, are three Old Franciscan Missions. At Santa Barbara, San Buena \'entura. San Luis Obispo, San Juan Capistrano, San Diego, San Luis Rey (all in Southern California) are other equally ancient, historical and interesting missions, each deser\-ing of a special visit. All over Southern California are hundreds of Orange and Lemon groves, in some of which the golden yellow fruit can be seen each and every month of the year. Ripe Figs, Pomegranates, Loquats, Guavas, Bananas and Pine- apples can be pulled from growing trees or plants in proper season. ^^'ithin two hours' ride from Los .Angeles there are more than 60 towns and cities having from 500 to 35,000 population. All are worth visiting. Many are tinique and historically attractive : others are far famed because of their beautiful homes, orange orchards, ocean bathing and fishing and splendid tourist hotels. Among them are San Gabriel and San Fernando, Pasadena, Hollywood, Covina, Long Beach, Venice, Ocean Park, Redlands, Riverside and Catalina. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 133 That Los Angeles has the best hotel accommodations in the United States. First-class and family hotels, advantageously located throughout the city, can care for 100,000 guests. Now building a $2,000,000 addition to one of the largest hotels in the city. That Los Angeles is immediatel_v surrounded by an exceptionally fertile and productive country. Products for the last 12 months are as follows: Citrus fruits, 38,000 carloads; vegetables, carloads — celery, 2,000; cabbage, 500; tomatoes. 125; potatoes, 250; onions, 150; cauliflower, 300; nuts, 8,000 tons; cantaloupes, 1,400 carloads; raisins and dried fruits, 9,000 tons; butter, 6,000,000 lbs.; cheese, 950,000 lbs.; eggs, 100,000 cases; canned goods. 500,000 cases; olives, pickled 1,000,000 gals., olive oil, 500,000 gals.; beet sugar, 135,000,000 lbs.; wine and brandy, 7.500.000 gals.; petroleum, 53,000,000 bbls. : beans, 44,000 tons. That Southern California has an unlimited supply of cheap fuel oil and electrical power, which together with its all-the-year-around "out of doors" climate, its three transcontinental railroads and its splendid harbor ( within the city limits) makes Los Angeles and vicinity ideal locations for all kinds of manufactories. That Los Angeles has the best Electric (urban and interurban) railroad system in the world, and that it has 50 per cent more interurban electric train departures each day, than there is from Chicago, Cleveland, Columbus, Toledo, Dayton, Indianapolis, Ft. ^^'ayne and Springfield combined. How We Grow Population of Los Angeles. 1900, 102,000; 1909, 350.000. Postage Stamps Sold, 1900, $245,000; 1909, $1,250,000. Bank Clearings. 1900, $115,000,000; IWJ, $675,000,000. Building Permits, 1900, $2,517,996; 1901, $4,381,855; 1902, $9,612,331; 1903, $13,046,438; 1904, $13,400,062; 1905, $15,482,067; 1906, $18,158,497; 1907, $13,275,943; 1908, $9,934,298; 1909, $12,700,000; an average of over $1,300,000 per month for the last eight years. Building Permits for March, 1910, $1,716,921. Bank Clearings for March, PnO, $73,350,265.90. That Los Angeles has : Banks — Commercial and savings. 33; total capital and surplus, $20,000,000; deposits, $110,000,000; clearances for 1909, $675,000,000: an increase of $150,000,000 over 1908. Schools — Public school buildings, including State Normal, 113: teachers, 1,275; school children enrolled, 50,000; miscellaneous private schools and colleges, 40. Parks— Public parks, 22. One of which, containing over 3,000 acres, is the largest municipal park in the world. Churches — All denominations, 225. That Southern California has one of the largest oil deposits in the world. The output for the past year was upwards of 53,000,000 barrels crude oil. 134 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. iJ. A. That every year Los Angeles is adding big industrial plants. One com- pany during the past year expended $1,000,C00 for buildings and modern machinery. Los Angeles city and county has hundreds of miles of asphalted streets and oiled roads for automobiling. That Los Angeles has two telephone companies serving over 68,000 sub- scribers ; equivalent to a telephone for each family. That Los Angeles is the best all-the-year-around convention city in the United States. That Los Angeles has no equal as a winter resort and entertains more tourists than any other city, anywhere. That the summer climate of Los Angeles is no less admirable than its winter climate. That it costs no more — perhaps not as much — to live in Los Angeles as in other American cities. That Los Angeles is the greatest shipping point in the world for oranges, beans and olive oil. and the greatest lumber port in the United States. That Los Angeles supports more automobiles than any other city of its size. That Los Angeles manufactories number over 1.500 and employ over 12,000 men. That Los Angeles will be a city of 1.000,000 population in 10 to 15 years. The Benham Indian Trading Co. There were several members of the party while in Los Angeles expressed their desire to purchase Navaho blankets. Indian baskets and other similar curios. Knowing my interest in such things, they naturally appealed to me. and several blankets and baskets were taken home by happy collectors as a consequence. Not keeping a stock of these things myself, I took them to the Benham Company, which, to me. is doing one of the most interesting branches of business in the West. This house, which is the largest in the country, is located at 514 South Hill street, Los Angeles. It is the whole- sale depot from which the collectors and museums of this country and Europe are supplied. The company is interested in twelve trading posts on the dififerent Indian reservations, and can offer their customers an assortment of personally selected Navaho rugs which can not be seen elsewhere. If you buy of them vou are sure to get the genuine Navaho weave with best patterns and staple colors, transplanted from the squaw"s desert home to yours, and rich with interesting traditions. It is a pleasure for me to refer to the work of this company, for it is one of the few companies that has traded with the Indians of America without exploiting them. On the other hand, they have striven for their benefit. The^• have long realized that the time has come when radical steps must lie taken in order to maintain the weaving of the Navaho blanket in TO CALIFORXIA AXD lllE PACIFIC COAST 135 its truest significance, and to cId this the Indians must be discouraged in the use of the many hued commercial dyes so prevalent in the past few years and gradually be brought back to the old style colors and designs, that were so full of meaning. \\'ith this end in view they have had a New York chemist experimenting with dyes, the object being to reproduce the old colors in dyes that were absolutely fast. They have also loaned several of their best blankets to the weavers to lie used for patterns. With endless perseverance they have fully instilled the idea into the heads of the weavers adjacent to their trading posts and as a result their blankets are entirely free from objectionable features. Fine Indian Basliet.s, in tlie collection of the Benhani Inilian Trading Co., Los Angeles. Specimens of these fine weave blankets were exhibited in the Anthrop- ology Building at the \\'orld's Fair in St. Louis, and a grand prize was awarded the Benham Company by the superior jury of scientists for their beautiful blankets. As they deal direct with the Indians their facilities are unrivaled and thev can offer their customers the best inducements as to price, variety and qualitv. The modern fine weave and modern Bayetta blankets can only be had at one of their stores. Their assortment of the coarser Xavaho rugs such as are sold in other stores is very large and in a great variety of patterns. They are all personally selected of stable colors only and are the best products of Indian art in weaving. They also carrv a varied assortment of old Bayetta?, chiefs' robes, squaw dresses and Chimallo Indian blankets. 136 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. In addition they have one of the finest stocks in existence of Indian baskets, which, to select customers, they will send out on approval. I will personally guarantee that whatever they send, be it blanket, basket, rug or beadwork, it will be genuine Indian, and the price will be as reasonable as any in the trade. Extraordinary Design on a fine Yol .\, cle Wolffers. I^cis Angeles, Cal they were erected, and important scenes in their triumphant careers. The sculptured statues of Greece and Rome arc all that remain to us to suggest the appearance of Ilomer, Demosthenes, Aeschylus, \'irgil and other of the notable-s — statesmen, warriors, poets, philosophers — of those earlier days, and even when painting on wood and canvas became common, so that portraits could be preserved with reasonable fidelity, the ease with which canvas could be destroyed still led men to prefer the more indestructible 138 THE 1910 TRir OF THE H. Al. Al. B. A. media, when they wished to preserve their features for the benefit and instruction of posterity. Only to the extremeh- wealthy, however, are sculptures, bronzes, marble bas-reliefs, etc., possible, and yet there are many who laudably desire either for themselves, or for others, the opportunity for the transmission to future generations of their facial characteristics. Of all methods, none has proven so successful as that of repousse work. This is the art of hammering out, in brass, copper or other metal, a relief of the object to be pictured and preserved. It was brought to the highest state of perfection by the Italian, Benevenuto Cellini, who was born in 1.^00 and lived for seventy years. His choice work is preserved in the royal treasuries of Italy, Portugal, Spain, I-'rance and Russia. Specimens are to be found, here and there, scattered throughout Europe. He combined artistic genius in conception with artistic skill and genius in execution, and the result is he placed upon the highest pedestal of the arts in metals his own great achievements. To reproduce a portrait, a true facial presentment, however, requires a peculiar genius. Many excellent workers in repousse who are able to make excellent landscapes or general representations of animals and the like utterly fail when they endeavor to make a portrait. Now and again an artist is found who possesses this usual gift to a greater or lesser degree. Los Angeles is fortunate in the possession, at the present time, of such an artist. He is Alfred de Wolffers, a refined and cultured Frenchman of good famili\'. who, in one of his exuberant feelings of democracy, cast loose from his titled associations in France and came and settled in this Xew World, where he felt that every man would be required to make his own way regardless of all adventitious facts of birth and so-called position. During his hours of idleness he had accpiired this art of repousse work, and now turned to it with serious earnestness as the means of his livelihood. In Washington, New York, Boston and Philadelphia, and later, in San Francisco, he achieved considerable fame and success. The accompanying portrait, done in hammered copper, of George Wharton James, the well- known explorer, author, and lecturer, is the product of his skill, and to those who need such a portrait, a memorial tablet, or anything of the kind that must endure exposure to the weather, withstand fire, and be of an enduring nature (without incurring the great expense of bronze casting), his work is especially commended. Commissions are respectfully solicited, and orders will be given personal and prompt attention. Address Wm. L. Judson, President Arroyo Guild of Fellow Craftsmen, College of Fine Arts. 212 Thorne street. Los Angeles. Cal., or M. Alfred de Wolffers in person, at the same address. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 139 Carleton Gilbert, who managed llie Hotel Virginia during the visit of the H. :m. M. B. A. Carleton Gilbert was born at Jackson, Micli- igan. but for tlie past twelve years has been identifieil with hotel management on tlie Pacific Coast. He began at the Occidental, San FranciSLO. thence acquiring the manage- ment of The Sequoia, on Geary street, which he soon made a dividend payer. After the fire he went to the Potter at Santa Barbara and the Van Nuys in Los Angeies, wiience he acquired the Stetson, in Seattle, Wash. Here he was so successful that tlie Empire Hotel Co. engaged him to conduct the Butler Annex, which he did with entire success until called to the Virginia at Long Beach. Since the visit, of the H. M. M. B. A., however, he has taken a much-needed rest, and is now negotiating for one of the large hotels of Log Angeles. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 141 A Side Trip to San Diego— Hotel Del Coronado While San Diego and Coronado Beach were not included in the regular itinerary on this trip, several of those who remembered the Seventeenth Annual ISanquet held at Hotel del Coronado, and many others who had heard of the fame of these places, or who had visited them before and wished to see them again, stole away from Los Angeles and ran down to the extreme southwestern corner of the United States. Hotel del Coronado is now under the management of Morgan Ross, who, without having rebuilt the hotel has so completely changed it that one feels himself in an entireh' new place as he recalls the Coronado of old. The old furnishings of every description have been discarded and new ones installed. Every modern device for comfort, luxury and convenience has been added, and such an entire change made in the general directorate of the hotel, grounds and surroundings, that the charm, pleasure and delight of a visit have been most materially enhanced. Hotel del Coronado is especially equipped for golf, the climatic condi- tions being so perfect that scarcely a day in the year passes without the enthusiast being able to play his favorite game with comfort. Tennis events here are of international importance and all the great players of the world appear on the courts. Coronado is one of the only places where archery is a regular pastime, and those who enjoy polo find in Mr. Ross an ex])ert in the game who has done much to foster it in California. The international tournament takes place here. There is also a fine mile track on which pony and horse races are held every season, and paper chases for cross-country- riding are regular events of the season. Automobile races and gymkhanas are held every winter, and clay-pigeon tournaments add to the out door festivities. The close proximity to Mexico also allows to hunters special privileges not obtainable in the LTnited States, gained through concessions from the Mexican Government to the management of Hotel del Coronado. Yet with all these sports I have not yet touched upon those provided by the water. With the bay on one side and the ocean on the other, the water- lover has everything that heart can desire. Yachting, boating, canoeing, fishing, swimming, marine sports of every kind are regularly provided. As for the rooms of Hotel del Coronado, everything that a perfect man- agement can suggest has been installed for the comfort of guests. The cuisine has already added many laurels to Mr. Morgan Ross's fame as one of the great hotel directors of the United States. The Grant Hotel, San Diego The visitors all returned to Los Angeles enthusiastic with what their brief trip south had revealed to them. They had anticipated much at Hotel del Coronado and had received more than they expected, but they were surprised beyond measure at the marked progress. During the last few years the city of San Diego has made a growth in population and a devel- opment in all material things that is simi)ly wonderful. .\ great number c B J3 TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 143 of new Iniildings have recently been erected, such as the Union Building, ihe Public Lilirary, the magnificent High School and the Elks' Hall. The great department store buildings call forth praise, but surpassing them all in grandeur, excellence and magnificence is the New Grant Hotel. This hotel by its size, equipment and management at once leaps to the front rank, even among Southern California's noted hotels. Its owner has done his part in ]:)ro\-iding a building that \\-ould not suffer in comparison with the finest hotel buildings of New York, Philadelphia, Chicago or Boston, in this country, or of Paris, London or Berlin, in Europe. Just as U. S. Grant, general of the United States Army, and President of the United States, .-tood on an equality with any of the monarchs or generals of the old or new world, so does this new^ hotel at once and without question take its proper place as one of the "noted few." It is said by wide travelers to be ihe most beautiful concrete building in America. Much is said about buildings being fireproof. In the case of the U. S. Grant Hotel, there is absolutelv no wood in the building except the doors, which are of solid mahogany. It has 500 rooms, 350 of which have private baths. Its grill is called "Bivouac Grill," in remembrance of the many bivouacs of the army life of the great American general, after whom the hotel is named. It has eighteen arches in the walls, twenty-two feet long and ten feet high, with an exquisite oil painting fitted into each arch. Each painting represents one of the great nations. The ceilings, etc., are decorated with the flags, crests, coats of arms, etc., of the nations depicted, suggestive of the won- derfully cosmopolitan character of this great American nation, which is made up from the sturdy, the strong, the men of achievement and character of all nations. The Palm Court is an exquisitely beautiful and charmingly picturescpie feature of the hotel. It is fully equipped with furniture of the most cozy and comfortable description for lounging, resting, and the enjoyment of tea, after dinner cofTee, etc. Tea will be served each afternoon, at which rich and pleasing music will be discoursed by a Hungarian orchestra. The Roof Garden has no equal in the West, if in the world, and it is provided with open-air sleeping apartments for the growing number of intelligent and thoughtful travelers who have learned the peace, comfort and serenity that come from spending their sleeping hours under the silent stars. The hotel has a fully equipped Turkish bath with two plunges, each of fifty feet long, filled with salt water from the ocean warmed to a com- fortable and suitable temperature. It will thus be seen that it is as essentially a high class tourist hotel as anv one of the Florida Coast hotels, or the noted hotels of Switzerland. It is also admirablv adapted for the comfort and convenience of transients. The plaza directly in front of the hotel gives an added charm, and it contains a $25,CCO electric fountain, which is a feature few Western hotels can boast. Close at hand are the opera houses, theaters, and the shopping district. 144 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Another feature of importance is the great Music Room on the tenth floor, built to comfortably accommodate 1,650 people at one time. On the ninth floor are two dining-rooms, so that conventions or other large gather- ings can be easily and conveniently handled without, in the slightest, disturbing the regular routine of the house. San Diego is thus prepared to give to many who have hitherto only heard of it, a taste of its vs'onderfully equable climate. There is nothing superior to it in the world, and confessedly so. The roads, too, are care- fully prepared and kept in order throughout the whole county, especially to give joy to automobilists. The hunting and fishing of San Diego is well known, and the golf course is second to none on the coast. Uniting his trained and experienced energies with the capital of Mr. Grant, the builder, that veteran hotelman of California, J. H. Holmes (who for upwards of twenty years made the fame of the Hotel Green, Pasadena, reach to the farthest confines of the traveling world) will have full charge of the operation of the hotel. The furnishings were installed under his competent direction, and the whole staft', from office to kitchen, is of his choice. To "those who know" and have traveled, nothing further need be said. CHAPTER V WEDNESDAY, APRIL 13, 1910— PASADENA DAY The Cawston Ostrich Farm, Mount Lowe, The Raymond, Pasadena Wednesday, April 13, was certainly a most strenuous day. Shortly before 8 :30 everybody assembled at the Hotel Van Nuys, where Messrs. Potter and Knapp exerted themselves to make all feel at home and wish thev had been there all the time. Special cars then conveyed the jolly crowds to the Cawston Ostrich Farm, where Professor T. S. C. Lowe awaited them and met many of his old friends of the 1896 excursion. The ladies were divided as to which interested them most, the ostriches or the leathers in the salesroom. They mainly compromised on the latter. But all were profoundly impressed with the business-like sagacity and foresight of Air. Edwin Cawston, the founder of this farm, and the original promoter of the ostrich feather industry in America. Hotelmen of all others are able to appreciate foresight and initiative, so they were all pleased to know that in looking over the Cawston Ostrich Farm they were enjoying the original, the pioneer, the greatest and largest of all of its kind. It has long been one of the institutions of Southern California, and there is hardly a traveler or tourist who has visited Los Angeles, but has admired this unique and interesting establishment. In fact, the name of the Cawston Ostrich Farm has become so identified with Southern Cali- fornia, that in every part of the world the mention of one suggests the other. Located in South Pasadena, it occupies a picturesque and beautiful semi- tropical park of its own, and here, amid the flowers, palms and shrubber\-, the California ostrich lives, and thrives, and is the object of nnich curious and admiring attention. A place of interest, instruction and entertainment it is. to be sure, and one that adds much to the attraction of California, but the utility of the farm is not wholly to cater to the sightseeing public. It has a broader and more useful mission — that of raising the great birds for the feathers. For twentv-five vears or more the flock has been cared for, and grown until it is now the largest on the ^^'estern Continent, and in Southern California, the finest feather product of the world is produced at the Cawston. The exhibits of the farm have received medals and awards in every exhibition in the world where they have been on display. The plucking is done at the farm from the male birds only, and frequently this interesting operation has been done in public. They are made up in the factory on the farm. O O a TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 149 and being only the feathers of the male birds, they possess life, luster, strength and beauty not to be found in other feather goods. So in addition to adding its attractiveness to the many places of interest in Southern California, the Cavvston Farm has provided an industry that adds many thousands of dollars each year to the resources of this section. The sale of the feathers reaches out over the world, and visitors from all parts of the country, and imm abroad, have taken them home from California. The Cawston Ostrich Farm was established in 1886 and sent its first exhibit of plumes to the Omaha E.xhibition in 1898, for which it was awarded First Prize. This was not so remarkable as its success of two vears later, when Cawston invaded France, the center of the ostrich feather industrv, and with his products, carried off the Gold Medal at the World's Exposition held in Paris. Since then, Cawston feathers have won prizes everywhere, ending their list of victories for the time being by taking the Grand Prize at the Seattle Fair, 1909. The products of the Cawston Ostrich Farm are not sold exclusively for millinery purposes. Many dainty toilet accessories, such as boas, muifs and fans are manufactured. These as well as the heavy plumes are much in vogue at all seasons and are sold locally at prices much more reasonable than those usually asked and obtained elsewhere. The ostrich eggs are also a popular souvenir. They are of an enormous size as compared with those of the common fowl, the average measurement being from four to six inches in diameter. Pictures of the birds themselves, views of the ostrich farms or of Southern California, hand-painted on the empty shell, make them an attractive and valuable memento. One of the most superbly appointed stores in Los Angeles is the city .salesrooms at No. 313 South Broadway, where the finished feather in all of its many beautiful styles makes a display not seen in any other store or city. The result of this visit undoubtedly will be that the visitors on this occasion, whenever they may need ostrich feathers, will deal directly with the Cawston Farm, of South Pasadena. Mount Lowe Railway Time was all too short, and few were ready to leave the Ostrich Farm when the call was made "All aboard for Mount Lowe." Passing through South Pasadena, and getting a beautiful view of sightly Hotel Raymond on the way, then on through Pasadena and Altadena, a half hour's delightful ride brought the visitors to Rubio Canyon, at the foot of the celebrated great cable incline of the Mount Lowe Railway. It is proper to say in passing that this railroad, conceived and built by Prof. T. C. S. Lowe nearly twenty years ago, has the world's record for safe operation, not one of the hundreds of thousands of visitors carried having ever been harmed or hurt. I-'urthermore, this incline railroad to simimit of Echo Mountai)! brought about a revolntii:)n in mountain railroad liuilding, and to-day no more TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 151 mountain roads are built on the old cog principle. The trolley leading from the summit of Echo Mountain to Alpine Tavern, on Mt. Lowe, a height of o\-er five thousand feet, has an c(|ualh' good record. In his "Hotel World" account of the trip, Henry J. Bohn thus writes: ''While there are man}- mountain railroads now in the world, it is doubtful if there is another mountain trip by railroad more interesting or so Miteri. sting as is this one, and it is sincere!}- to be hoped that Prof. On the Car of the Great Cable Incline, Mt. Lowe Railway, Cal. Lowe's ambition to see the i'oad extended to Inspiration Point, a great i'Otel erected there and the Lowe Observator}- placed on the summit of Mt. Lowe, will be realized. There has been no more effective advertise- ment for Southern California than these wonderful railroads, constructed by this great inventor, and Los Angeles and vicinity could not make a better in\-estment than to help complete the original plans as formulated in the mind of Prof. Lowe. It was my pleasure to spend this day in the company of the veteran scientist and inventor, and though he has reached the allotted score of man in years, he is still hale and hearty, climbing the rugged mountain sides with apparent ease and as enthusiastic over his inventions and the future as if he were again a young man starting on his wonderful career." 152 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. .M. B. A. Lunch at Hotel Raymond Satiated with sightseeing, yet reluctant to leave the "Heights," the crowd, getting hungry, piled into the cars and were speedily whirled back to the level and to the hotel as well known in the East as in the ^^'est — the Raymond. The first of Southern California's popular tourist hotels in point of time. the Raymond also proves that it is first in the hearts of its countrymen by the fact that the season of 1909-10 was the best in its history both' financially and in the character of its guests. Xot only did Andrew E. M. Tierne>" and Fi-ed A. Reed of New York, taking an aeroplane ride over Mt. Ll-w < Carnegie and ]\Irs. Russell Sage enjoy its hospitality for several weeks, but a list of notables whose names alone would fill several pages of this book also made it their California winter home. It was fitting, therefore, that the H. M. M. B. A. should visit the Raymond, and partake of luncheon after their happy day on Mount Lowe. Ascending the winding avenue to the hilltop crowned by the big hotel, passing brilliant ilower beds, then shrubberies and groves of trees with glimpses of far-ofif golf links, tennis courts and a distant panorama of super- lative loveliness, the visitors were enthusiastic in their appreciation, but far more so when a vision of the hotel and its outlook burst upon them. The broad veranda of the hotel was shielded by a huge awning of flowers. A wire netting fortA'-seven feet long and sixteen feet deep was filled with flowers. Bordered with marguerites and massed with thousands TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 153 of scarlet geraniums, the inscription. "The Raymond \\'elcomes tlie M. M. M. B. A.," stood out in bold relief in letters of wliite carnations, four feet high, to greet the guests as they arrived at the carriage block. Beneath the awning, at either side of the white pillars of the entrance, were wells of flowers. They were formed of bricks made of candytuft and garlanded with pink ivy geraniums. I'rom floral beams, flower covered buckets were dropped into the wells, and appolinaris or California grape juice drawn from iced depths to refresh the thirstv tra\-elers. At Alpine Tavern. Ml. Lowe Ry., Cal. Professor T. S. C. Lowe 'wearing derby liat). Jolm H. Mitchell, the new president, Henry .1. Bohn and Geoige Wharton .iames. Within the lobby, flowers were used yet more lavishly. From a green canopy of asparagus fern which extended the length of the corridor to the music room and drawing room, rich red carnations were clustered in balls, and hung at intervals along the path. In the gold room, golden poppies Avere placed in rich confusion. The drawing room was decorated with hundreds and hundreds of red Magna Charta roses and standing eveiywhere in the pretty brown Japanese baskets which are a- distinct feature of California decoration. On the piano stood the beautiful trophy won by Mrs. Raymond at the last Tournament of Roses, a giant basket. It held one of the largest single bouquets of roses ever seen in the State. 154 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. I\I. II. A. a, c (LCi o Eh TO CALIFORNIA AND TllL'. PACIFIC COAST 155 WALTER RAY.MOXli, Proprietor Hotel Raymond, South Pasadena, Cal. Few men in Arnerica are so well known to the traveling world as Walter Raymond of the far-famed Rayinond Hotel. When Mr. Ray- mond's father engaged in conducting exclusive parties to the Pacific Coast he recognized the beauty of Pasadena, and erected the Raymond Hotel, on the most commanding knoll in the San Gabriel Valley, for the accommodation of his patrons. Its fame grew until it was too small to accommodate its guests, and this con- dition did not decrease when it came into Mr. Raymond's hands. Then fire destroyed it, and a new. modern, enlarged and more beautiful structure crowded Raymond Hill, and while the H. M. M. B. A. were present. Hotel Raymond was the home of Andrew Carnegie, Mrs. Rus- sell Sage and many other of the world's notables. 15G THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. AI. AI. B. A. The dining-room entrance was concealed with a portiere of sweet peas. Ropes of smilax were threaded with fragrant delicate blossoms, thousands of them. The sweet peas used in this decoration alone comprised four thousand bunches, while fourteen thousand carnations were effectively l^laced throughout the hotel. An elaborate luncheon was served, during which George Wharton James presented Air. Walter Raymond, the host, to the visitors, who greeted him with hearty cheers. His little speech of welcome was a gem of good jU^ sin^euAa.,mfin, uScEBjnj BKJJP^^ --— "• •^••'-•-iBiig^^ ' ...... f r M m 'mr rWmJiyim^^ mW^ m JfK,*.: Hi^»o— — A Pleasant H. JI. JI. B. A. Memory — The "Floral Welcome" of the Raymond done in blossoms for "Pasadena Day," April 15, 1910. fellowship and good taste, and at once endeared him to all those who had not yet had the pleasure of meeting him. He was assisted in entertaining by his lovely and accomplished wife, who, later, in the ladies' banquet in Los Angeles, demonstrated her ability in more ways than one. The Raymond originally was built to accommodate the excursionists of the Raymond & Whitcomb Company, of Boston, Alass., and through its efforts many thousands of people made their first trip to the Land of the Sundown Sea. The present hotel, however, is an entireh- new structure, having been rebuilt four years ago. As one of the visiting members wrote : The Ra}mond is a beautiful structure, splendidly arranged, superbly furnished and elegantlv equipped. It is the largest hotel in California built and owned bv an\' one individual 158 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. ^l. M. B. A. anil is a splendid monument to the man whose name it l^ears. j\Ir. Raymond has no partner aside from his wife, a charming woman, cultured, refined, capable, brilliant in conversation and as energetic and enterprising as is Mr. Raymond himself. To her assistance is due, at least in a measure, the splendid success which has been scored in this well known hotel. It was while the H. Al. AI. 1!. A. hosts were at the Virginia Hotel, Long Beach, that iNIrs. Raymond won the hearts of the visitors. By special request she sang "Comin' Thro' the Rye" in a manner that charmed her' hearers, one and all. Mrs. Raymond has a delightful soprano \oice which shows the best of training and culture. This, with her charming personality, The Floral Awning at Hotel Raymond, South Pasadena, and the autoniobile.s ready to convey the H. M. M. B. A. for the ride through Pasadena. captivated her hearers and made her a favorite with all. Her rendition of this ever-popular selection constituted one of the most delightfully enjoyable features of the stop at the \'irginia at Long IJeach. On the menu card for the H. M. ]\I. B. A. luncheon were these words, which few, if any, of the visitors for one moment felt inclined to question as they looked out over the glorious panorama spread before them from the Raymond porch. "Tlic Raymond greets the members of the Hotel Men's ^lutual Benefit Association of the United States and Canada, and bids them welcome to Raymond Hill, the most beautiful hotel site in the world." TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 159 Of the hotel itself little need be said. Competent travelers and writers I rem all over the norld have sung its praises in genuine literature. Charles Dudley Warner, Kate .Sanborn, the \'an Dykes and many others have written in glowing terms of its location, its outlooks, its surroundings, its flowers, its homelikeness. In all that goes to make up the best of resort hotels, the Hotel Raymond stands side b}' side with the foremost. In some features its climatic surroundings gives it distinct advantage, as for instance, in its flowers. They are to be found everywhere, hundreds of varieties, with a wealth that to most Eastern travelers, seems wasteful and extravagant, for they abound all over the large estate. These are never cut. To furnish flowers for the public rooms, dining-room, guest rooms, etc., there are acres of carnations in the open, and in lath houses. Ten greenhouses are also maintained, one of which is for American I'leauty roses, the others for a variety of flowers too numerous to mention. To care for all this, si.xteen to twenty gardeners are emploA-ed. Directly below and in front of the hotel are the golf links, which experts have pronounced the finest in Southern California. Golf is a feature of the Raymond and it is the only hotel in Southern California which maintains its own links on its own estate. The clubhouse is but a step from the house, and w-ill be found attractive by lovers of the game. Clock golf, and a short six-hole court golf, are available for those who do not care for the exertion necessary to play on the regulation nine-hole course, but who wish light outdoor exercise. No wonder the members of the H. M. M. B. A. left the Raymond with regret. Through Pasadena to the Green and the Maryland After the luncheon at the Raymond, carriages, tally-hos and automobiles, provided by the Chamber of Commerce of Pasadena, conveyed the guests through this flower embowered paradise. Pasadena is confessedly the chief jewel of Southern California; let winter winds whirl the snow broadcast over the Eastern States, here the most smiling of summer suns greets one nearly every morning: and the gentlest breezes, odorous of orange blossoms, invite to out door pleasures. This is truly an ideal city, ideally located ; on every hand cozy homes nestle amid flowers massed in tropical profusion ; here and there stretch magnificent boulevards lined with palms and drooping banana-fronds : while up the distant slopes on every side mount laden orch- ards gleaming with golden fruit. Up and down Orange Grove avenue, Marengo avenue, and all the outlooks over the Arrovo Seco, to points which emphasized the beauty of valley, foot- hills, grand and majestic mountains, ocean and far away islands, the visitors were taken. All of them, especially those from Chicago, Father Throop's former home, were anxious to see the school that he founded, and hear some- thing of the work it is accomplishing. It is already recognized one of the leading educational institutions not onlv of I'asadena, but "i California. It was founded in 1891 by the TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 161 Hon. Amos G. Throop, honored and beloved in man)- places, but especially in Chicago. For many years it was the only western source of supply for teachers of manual training in the public schools. Now it aims to be purely a College of Technology and under the able presidency of Dr. James A. B. Scherer is rapidly working to that end. The old buildings in the heart of the city of Pasadena have been gi\-en over to the Throop Academy, an entirely separate school, administered separately, though the same Board of Trustees supervises both. The engraving shows the first of a group of fourteen build- ings which will ultimately form the college group. It was designed by Myron Hunt and Elmer Grey, two of the leading and most original archi- tects of the West. It is but a portion of the administration building of the future Institute. The future wings will double its size. There is no wood in its construction save for its doors. Beneath the red tile roof is a concrete roof. The dome, floors and staircases of concrete. The walls are of concrete anil unburnable tile. It is fireproof and earthquake proof. Its cost was about $160,000. ( ;\-er the three archways of the main entrance the eminent sculptor, .-\le.\ander Sterling Calder has placed three of his masterpieces expressive of nature, art. energy, science, imagination, and law. From this one new building the large scope of the far-reaching plans of the Trustees may well be understood. In the course of a few years Throop will more than rival, both in equipment of buildings, endowment, and especially in its staflf of progressive and advanced educators, many of the old world colleges and universities of a century ago. Regretting their time was so limited the visitors were now taken to Hotel Green that magnificent and world-famed structure that, growing larger and more splendidly equipped every year, has served as the Pasadena home of a large and growing Eastern, Southern, Xorthern and Alidcontinental clientele, who require in this quiet and beautiful city a resting place that affords all the refinement, comfort and lu.xury of the finest metropolitan hotels. The Hotel Green is the largest resort hotel in Califnrnia. It covers almost the entire area of two large city blocks, the west wing standing in its own park. Central Park is practically a continuation of Hotel Green Park, for a beau- tiful drive-way lined with exquisite flowering plants and shrubs, where a fountain constantly plays, is the connecting link between the two. It consists of three buildings known as the East, Center and West Buildings. The East Building is five stories high and constructed of brick and stone. In this building are located the main offices of the entire plant, the American plan dining-room and private theater. The Center Building is of Moorish design, six stories in height, and is constructed entirelv of steel, stone and brick, being absolutely fireproof. The walls are of steel and brick, the partitions and floors of channel iron and TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 163 cement. The two buildings are connected by a covered steel archwav 200 feet in length which crosses Ra^-mond avenue. The West Building is six stories, in which is located the European Cafe, Dutch and Colonial Dining Rooms and Romanesque Parlor. Hotel Green covers nearly two blocks ground space. It is surrounded by Parks, and the City Park of ten acres adjoins on the south; Hotel Green has over 500 sleeping rooms — 350 with baths, numerous parlors and card rooms ; has nine and one-quarter acres floor space, over one mile of halls leading to rooms, roof garden 50 by 225, a portion of which is enclosed in glass and filled with tropical plants. In the main hotel is a great central room with many restful lounging chairs ; opening from this is the reception- room, billiard-room, refreshment-room, dining-room, reading-room, and in easy reach are elevators and a graceful puente connecting the main building with the west building. The power house and all machinery are located 600 feet from the hotel. Wliere Winter Never Comes. Hotel Green Gardens, Pasadena. Cal. It is scarcely necessary in speaking of the provisions for luxurious comfort made by the owner and manager of this incomparable hotel, that reference be made to the wealth of flowers, the semi-tropical luxuriance of the gardens and park, the towering and stately palms, the peculiar and fascinating Yuccas and Roses that greet the eye on every hand, nor the exquisite renditions by a first-class orchestra of the choicest selections of musical favorites — popular and classical — that enchant the ear. This magnificent hotel was erected and is owned by Colonel G. G. Green, who, every year, accompanied by his family in their elegant private palace 164 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. car, come from the East to enjoy their beautiful California home at Altadena. Colonel Green has been exceedingly fortunate in the managers of his palatial hostelry, having retained the services of one manager for fourteen years, and now having secured those of Mr. David B. Plumer, of BriarcliiT Lodge, Briarcliff Manor. N. Y., and formerly of Laurel House and Laurel-in -the-Pines, Lakewood, N. ]. His assistant is ;\Ir. D. P. Simpson, of Edgewood Inn. Greenwich, Conn., formerly of the Laurel House, Lake- wood. X. J. With this team of well known hosts there can be no question as to the maintenance of the position of Hotel Green. Indeed, in their hands, and with vast improvements in the hotel which have taken all the summer of 1910 to complete it is assured that the season of 1910-11 will surpass any in the Hotel Green's history. Hotel Green, Pasadena, Cal., Col. G. G. Green. Owner. The guests were cordially received liere by Colonel Green and Mr. and Mrs. D. P. Simpson and each refreshed and given a handy leather card case and a beautiful souvenir of the hotel. In looking over the registers of Hotel Green one can find the autographs of all the noted people of the world who have visited California in the past twenty years. Naturally no thoughtful visitor comes to California without giving Pasadena an important place in his itinerary, and on reaching Pasa- dena his resting place neccssaril\- was Hotel Green. Hence the autographs of ]M-esidents and presidents' wives, princes, princesses, governors in gen- eral, and general governors, ambassadors, statesmen, poets, orators, novelists, merchant princes, captains of industry and so many millionaires that one can find their autographs by the thousand. And to-day Hotel Green still is the chosen home for all the notables and dignitaries of the world who come sight- seeing to this (;od-fa\orcd city. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 165 Amnng the Flowers in the ]Jotel Green Patio. Pasadena. Cal. Hotel Maryland Thi'^ the newest of Pasadena'.-^ finer hotel.'^, is located on a broad avenue lined with beantitul residences, and is surrounded by deep lawns, flowering shrubs and trees in a land of flowers. In the country on- ever}' side and growing even within Pasadena itself, are orange groves, and the air is full ol tluir pungent sweetness during all the long mo.iths of their blossoming time. Within there was something delightfullv restful and refreshing in the quiet decorations artistically but unobtrusively ])laced about the spacious lobbies. A single Japanese basket of exquisite |)iuk roses decorated the long table in the writing room. Xear the elevator stood a table which was covered with an inunense basket trav filled with shiny fruit, garlanded with crisp, fragrant orange blossom branches. It was a jiicture. .\t the end of the lobby, near the Japanese room was an inviting tea table, with a steam- ing samovar. Pleasant maids in \vhite were soon bu.sy offering the most refreshing beverage of that hour, the cup that cheers, but does not inebriate. The piece de resistance, however, was the huge crystal topped table with its vase of red roses mirrored into nuun- blossoms. .About the talde were TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 167 crystal platters filled with long stemmed luscious strawberries, little crystal bowls of powdered sugar invitingly near. Strawberries are always a lure, and the perfection of the fruit offered at the [Maryland created ahiiost a raid. These simpler refreshments were served in the same charming and perfect style, under the supervision of J. E. Dolan. the dining-room director, that has made the banquets of the Maryland famous. It was the hotel itself, and its appointments and surroundings, that the visitors were more interested in, and Manager D. i\I. Linnard and his charming wife were never kept busier in their lives than at this time in escorting their Eastern A Glimpse of Hotel Maryland, Pasadena. Cal. friends about. All agreed that one of the happiest expressions of the life in the open air for those who stay at the Maryland is the pergola of the hotel, whose white columns and beamed roofing are draped with climbing roses and bordered by flowers. This is the favorite rendezvous after dinner, when the mountains, which are seen in magnificent vistas from this point, are turning from rose to amethyst as the sun goes down. The long prom- TO CAI-IFURXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 169 (.'iiade of the pergola ends with a stone seat fitted with cushions, and at intervals widens into wayside nooks where cushioned settees and rustic chairs make charming places to sit and chat, with the vines flinging sun- flecked shadows around you. Another interesting feature of the Maryland is the fact that surrounding the hotel, but each protected by its own grounds, are several bungalows of anywhere from three to twelve rooms and bath, for such of the Marv- land's guests as \\ish to have the seclusion of a private home. One of the Floats at tlie 1I0:i Toiiinanient of Rope?, Pasadena, Cal. The California bungalow has I^econie the synonym for the comfortable and homelike in architecture, and these are models of their kiufl in attractiveness, with the low. graceful proportions, the wide porches ami beautiful sunlight and air which are characteristic. The service is just such as one would get in the hotel itself. Heat and hot water are piped from the main plant of the hotel and are always to be had in great abundance. If so desired, meals can be ser\-ed in the private dining-room of the bungalow. You may thus enjov the freedom of your own hi:)me. ])luck flowers from your own garden, lie in a hanimi^ck and read under the trees of your own grounds, and vet have none of the cares and res]ii)nsibilities of housekeeping. 172 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. JNI. R. A. It was one of the owners of the Maryland that was the prime mover in the organization of the world-famed Annandale Golf Club. Its house and grounds are situated beyond the grass-grown hills of San Rafael Heights, about two miles from the heart of Pasadena. It is one of th^ most superb locations that Southern California can offer. The clubhouse, which cost $40,000, is located in the midst of 120 acres which cost the company $70,000. The links cover an 18-hole course of 6,400 yards. Across the north side of the clubhouse extends a broad veranda 16 feet wide and 180 long. On the first floor are the bowling alleys, men's lunch rooms, women's room and lockers for the members. On the second floor is the dining-room, 46 by 32 feet; reception room, 65 by 43 feet; billiard room, buffet, office and kitchen. On the third floor are the quarters for the manager and employees of the club. Pasadenans have entertained here many of the world's greatest golfers- Andrew Carnegie and President Taft both being guests in 1910. La Pintoresca Hotel. P?. sadena, Cal. La Pintoresca Hotel Another of the famous and attractive resort hotels of Pasadena is La Pintoresca (the picturesque), situated in the northern jiart of Pasadena, and affording by far the most perfect outlook over the city, the valley, the foothills, the ocean and the islands beyond of any hotel in Southern California. La Pintoresca is not a hotel of pretense, but is a comfortable, homelike, well equipped, well conducted and restful high class resort hotel, catering to the best class of patrons but those who prefer comfort to ostentatious fashion. It is located close to the car line and midway between the city and the mountains, has spacious grounds with semi-tropical trees, plants, shrubs and flowers, and close to well kept and equipped golf links. CHAPTER VI WEDNESDAY. APRIL 13, 1910 THE ANNUAL BANQUET AT THE ALEXANDRIA, AND THE LADIES' BANQUET AT THE ANGELUS After a strenuous day of sightseeing at the Cawston Ostrich Farm, Mt. Lowe, the Hotel Raymond, Pasadena and the Hotels Green, Maryland and Pintoresca, one would have deemed the members of the H. M. M. B. A. entitled to a rest. But not a single one dropped out of line. All were present at the annual banquet at the Alexandria, Los Angeles, where it was known that Mr. S. J. Whitmore and Mr. Joseph Reichl had each determined to outshine anything before presented to the hotelmen East or West. It A\as an extraordinary banquet in more ways than one. It was a banquet of critics, of connoisseurs gathered from all parts of the United States who were here to see what California really could present in the wa_\- of elegance and completeness in service. And the critics were the most satisfied critics that ever sat at a banquet. They were full of praise and certainly the affair deserved the highest com- mendation for those who planned and executed it. When the doors of the banquet hall were thrown open at exactly 9:30 o'clock, it presented an arbor of rare beauty, of typically California beauty, to the eyes of the two hundred and fifty hotelmen who wandered in and found their seats at the various tables. Fashioned after the famed pergola of the Southwest, great strings of roses and tiny blue and white incandescent lights stretched from table to table. A single bar of gold, representing the wealth of the State, supported these decorations. At the bottom, as the centerpiece of each table, a wide- spreading bouquet of roses, ferns and other greenery clustered. Triumph of Art The center table was a triumph of art, fashioned by the hands of that famous incomparable artist, Joseph Reichl, himself. It consisted of a long lake of real water, surrounded by large American Beauty roses and a great deal of greenerv. Out of the lake rose two fountains, one of gold and another of purple, spraying their delicately scented water high in the air. At the base of these illuminated creations swam goldfish and other members of the finny tribe. There were seventeen seated at this table. The napery, silverware, the shimmering glasses, and the delicate china, all added their glister. The unique thing of the evening was the souvenir place card. This was handed to each guest upon entering the banquet bo TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 175 liall — a tiny suitcase of brown grass, with brass edges and lock and pasted over with symbols of the hotel, the occasion, the H. M. j\I. B. A., and others, indicating the well-traveled man and the man who recognizes the well-traveled man. Inside of these pretty cases was located the program of the evening, a complete menu and interesting data. C)n the silken cover was stamped a little poem, appropriate for the time and for the man who finds his home in the great caravansaries of the country. It read : "Who'er has traveled life's dull road, \\'here"er his stages may have been, ]\Iay sigh to think he still has found The warmest welcome at an inn." Contrasts The opposite cover depicted the landlord of old, the man who ran the little wayside inn in Revolutionary period, standing before the door of his hospitable place, welcoming the weary traveler alighting from the stage. The other half of the silken cover showed the great hotel of to-day, a bell-hop carrying an array of suitcases, grips and other hand-baggage into the wide-open doors of an up-to-date hostelry. Rushing automobiles and street cars passing typified the hurr3'-up spirit of the present day. Inside the cover was the aimouncement of the occasion and then the menu, which follows : Caviar d"Astrachan, served in vessels with all sails set; toke points au citron, mignonette: tortue claire ; hors d' Oeuvres varies ; filet de sand dabs, Florentine ; noisettcd agneau papillotte, Alexan- dria ; sorbet, California; supreme de pintade en nid, salad de Los Angeles; glaces fantaisies. friandises ; celeri a la hongroise. cafe. The wine list included sherry, crema olorosa Solera, 1811; Cordova dr_y haut sauterne; G. H. Mumm & Co., extra dry; Alexandria private stock cognac; Apolli- naris ; cigars and cigarettes. The final page contained the names of the speakers, the chairman, toast- master and all of the subjects to which they were detailed. The back co\'er was embossed with the name and the emblem of the association. Varied Program The musical program of the evening was a varied one. The Vienese Quartet, the Hungarian Band, several operatic singers, a harpist, a mandolin and a violin soloist took part, and their playing was of such character that it called for repeated encores. The songs were not confined to the usual iiielodies, hut included several of the old Spanish airs, redolent of the spirit of fun that prevailed among the dons of olden days, before the aggressive Yankee invaded the fair Southwest. These were charming ones and called for a number of encores. The same was true of the mandolin selections. 176 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M, M. B. A. When the final course was being served, the band and orchestra united in playing "The Star-Spangled Banner," and, standing, the assembled diners sang with loud acclaim the national anthem. When the last waiter had retired. Chairman Walter Raymond made a few introductory remarks and then resigned his place to Past President Fred Van Orman. who called on President John S. Mitchell of this citv. How well that able gentleman stands with the hotelmen of the entire United States was easily shown by the ovation gi\'en him when he arose. He called upon the national secretary, J. K. Blatchford of Chicago, to read the messages. These showed that, although not present in body, a great manj^ of the hotelmen were in Los Angeles in spirit. Messages of congratulation and regret for not being able to be here were many and came from all parts of the country. "Tenderfeet" No Longer These finished, President Mitchell, acting also as toastmaster, in graceful phraseology, told of the capturing of the first convention for Southern California in 1896, how several of the "Woolly Westerners" opened the eyes of the "tenderfeet" and lured them to the coast for the first time. He described the second attempt and' its success, and then turned to the organization itself, praising the men who founded and stood by it when things were not nearly as cheerful to look forward to as they are at present. Henry J. Bohn, one of the original members of the association, told of the early struggles, the times of hardship, and of the present prosperity of the organization. He also spoke of the morning visit to Mt. Lowe and paid a tribute to Prof. Lowe, who was one of the guests of the evening. Edward A. Fleming discussed briefly the essential factor of unity among the hotelmen, not only of a particular district, but of an entire country. He was followed bv one of the ablest speakers of the evening, known from one end of the coast to the other as the orator of the San I'^rancisco dele- gation. Kirk Harris. The talk of Mr. Harris was essentially one of fraternity among the hotelmen. "The unwritten motto of the San Francisco association is 'All pull together,' and we are doing it," he said, "^^'e are all out for the business and we have long ago learned that it is the fellow who wears out the soles of his shoes instead of the seat of his pants who wins in San Francisco. "Our interests are not all in San Francisco. We have fostered the greatest possible spirit of good fellowship with the Los Angeles hotelmen and we are opposed to the spirit of knocking our fair southern city. We believe in the complete elimination of sectional antagonism." Mr. Harris completed his remarks with the hope that the San Francisco men might be able to equal in a small degree, at least, the entertainment provided by the Los Angeles aggregation, when the visitors arrive in that city. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 177 ■"Hotel Associations" was the theme allotted to F. N. Bain, who was followed In- Harr}' L. Brown of Boston, who was elected vice-president of the association at the election. "Our Slogan, New England," was the topic of Mr. Brown, who told of the efforts of the hotelmen in the oldest part of the United States in promoting a better feeling among the traveling public and the bonifaces. Edward M. Tierney, noted as the silver-tongued orator of the association, who held the ofifice of president previous to the election of Mr. Ewins, was next on the program. "Hotel Fraternity" was the subject which occupied his attention. W'ith a peculiar Irish wit, his speech was at one and the same time amusing and full of solid facts. He depicted the early struggles of the association, the gradual drawing together of the hotelmen with the realization that in combined harmony the greatest strength can be found. Concluding the evening, or the morning, for the dinner and the talking ran far into the early hours, was an Irishman of local as well as national fame. Joseph Scott, who, as president of the board of education, was on hand to dispense a few pertinent facts about the city and impress them in a way that will remain a long time in the memory of those present. His jovial humor, illustrating and driving home facts, made his talk one of the features of the evening and held the audience to the last minute. Honor Guests Those seated at the table of honor were John S. Mitchell, Fred Van Orman, Evansville, Ind. ; J. K. Blatchford, Chicago: Harry L. Brown, Boston: Fred A. Reed, New York; James H. Bowker, Meriden, Conn.; W. H. Rider. D. D., Gloucester, Mass.; E. H. Thayer, Denver; F. N. Bain, New- burgh, N. Y. ; Joseph Scott, Walter Raymond, Pasadena; E. W. Tierney, New York City ; Edward T. Fleming, Philadelphia ; Kirk Harris, San Francisco: William ^^^ Davis, Boston; Henry J. liohn, Chicago; Frank P. Ewins, Kansas City. The Los Angeles Hotel Men's Association, and particularly the members of the committee, received sincere praise at the outcome of the banquet. Samuel \\'hitmore and his able assistant, Joseph ReichI, received no end of com]:)liments on the banquet. Harry Fryman, who acted as head of the Reception Committee, and, with C. C. Loomis, E. L. Potter and others of the local organization, handled the excursion of the visitors in the morning, also came in for their share of high commendation. The Ladies' Banquet at The Angelus \\ hile the gentlemen of the H. M. M. B. A. were entertaining them- selves at the Alexandria, the ladies were enjoying themselves in their own fair manner at the Angelus. It has been said that "there have been women's teas and receptions and other feminine symposia innumerable throughout the L'nited States for many years, but this was really the first actual woman's ban(.|uet, a la masculine, that has ever taken place anywhere." 17S THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. C. A. Mrs. Walter R;iymond, Toastmaster of the Ladies' Banquet. Los Angeles, Cal. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 179 There were 184 Ijanqueters present, with not a man anywhere to partake, prompt or direct; and the menu was quite as elegant and extravagant as the one presented at the Alexandria. The Los Angeles "Times" says of this function : "Why attempt to describe a bantiuet graced exclusively by the fair sex, (inless to say it was a garden of roses, lilies, poppies and violets, clothed in the softly brilliant hues of the rainbow. The wives and daughters of the members of the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Association, who were tendered a banquet at the Angelus Hotel last night by the Southern California Hotel Men's Association, surpassed the floral decorations of the banquet room in grace and loveliness. The speeches, too, matched in brightness, the best efforts of practiced male after-dinner orators. The presence of mere man at this banquet, where covers were laid for 185, would have jarred like a false note in a sonata or been as unsightly as a cauliflower in a bed of sweet peas. "This gathering of women is unique. And the success of the banquet demonstrates that woman is keeping pace with man in all that man does best, whether in conducting a hotel or making a speech. The large room was a symphony in color, and shows that the Loomis brothers possess the keenest discrimination and taste in such a delicate matter as the floral decorations for a ladies' banquet. There were masses of pink and red sweet peas, dainty lamps, and when the speeches began, roses, laurel, poppies and confetti. For after each speech the air was filled with these flowers, tossed by fair hands. "The menu cards were art treasures. Paul de Longpre's famous painting of the poinsettia was reproduced on each one, and distributed at the close of the banquet to be carried away as souvenirs. The place cards were hand-painted. Each guest also found at her plate a tiny traveling bag and diminutive baskets filled with roses. "The menu was as follows : Grape Fruit Supreme Essence of Chicken a I'Epicnre Ripe Olives Celery Salted Pecans Catalina Sand Dabs on Papilotte Potato Chips Cucumbers a la Jones Creamed Lamb Sweet Breads a la King, California Punch Potted Squab Chicken a r.\ngelus Our Special I'>uit Salad Frozen Xesselrode Pudding Small Assorted Cakes Roquefort Toasted Crackers Demi Tasse Ron Eons Cresta Blanca Haute Sauterne Apollinaris G. H. Mumm & Co.'s Extra Dry Champagne 180 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. MRS. DWIOHT H. HART. Mrs. Dwight H. Hart was -not only one of the niust active and energetic of the ladies of tile Southern California Hotel Association's Reception Committee to the wi\ es of the visit- ing liotelmen, of whir.-h she was chairman, but was also honored by opening the banquet of the visiting ladies at Hotel Angelus, and pre- senting the toastmaster on that occasion. Her speech revealed her a woman of wit and culture, able to make an address both enter- taining, forceful and Ijright. She was a decided "success" in both of her roles, and many of the visiting ladies have taken back with them exquisite memories of her ability, her tact, her helpfulness and unselfish exer- tions on their behalf. TO CALIFORNIA AXI) THE PACIFIC COAST 181 "An orchestra hidden in an adjoining room played dnring the banquet and accompanied Salvatore Tomaso of Chicago, who is a member of the association, when he paid the banqueters the honor of giving an impromptu serenade on the mandoHn. liis selections from Mendelssohn and Mascagni were received with every manifestation of pleasure, as he was not on the program." The chairman or master of ceremonies, who introduced the toastmaster, was Mrs. Dwight Hart, wife of the junior proprietor of the Hotels Natick and Rosslyn, Los Angeles. In a speech full of bright and witty things she said : "I attempted to borrow or buy a speech, but everywhere I went I was told that the very best speeches had been loaned to the speakers at the Alexandria. Notwithstanding this, we have ladies with us who can make pretty speeches, and they don't have to borrow or buy them." The cheers were a hearty and sincere tribute to her oratorical ability as she sat down, and were renewed when Mrs. Walter Raymond, the toast- master, arose to offer the first toast. In acknowledging the tribute paid her by Mrs. Hart as a charming hostess, Mrs. Raymond spoke glowingly of Southern California, and Pasadena in particular, and assured the guests that no matter where they went, the}' would always look back to Southern Cali- fornia as the one place in the world that approaches nearest to Paradise. "No matter where you are from," she said, "may the best day vou have seen be worse than the worst to come." With a few gracious and well chosen words Mrs. F. O. Johnson, wife of the proprietor of the Westminster Hotel, Los Angeles, was presented. Mrs. Johnson spoke on "The Visiting Ladies." She assured them that they are more than our guests, they are our friends. "We are glad to take you in, not on oil stock or gold bricks, and although the climate is boomed, it is not a skin game. The real success of the hotelmen Jies in the wisdom shown in the choice of their wives. As I look upon our beautiful womankind, I do not wonder that the charm of American women has contributed to the energy of Americans." Mrs. Raymond immediately followed this address by the apt quotatiol of these exquisite lines: "There is not a place in earth or heaven, There is not a task to mankind given. There is not a pleasure or a woe, ; There is not an answer Yes or No, There is not a life or birth That has a feather's weight of worth Without a woman in it." At a convenient place Mr. Henry J. Bohn, of the "Hotel World," and Mr. Frank P. Ewins, a former president of the H. M. M. B. A., who were sent over as the special ambassadors of President Mitchell, were introduced. Mr. Bohn made a few remarks as follows: 182 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. I come with greetings and regards from the presiding officer and newly-elected president of the H. M. M. B. A., Mr. Mitchell, who permitted Mr. Ewins, who is with me, and myself to absent ourselves from the official banquet at the Alexandria, where our speeches are about to begin, a few moments on condition that I should carry to you his greetings and express his regrets that he can not come in person. We think we are a pretty fine-looking "bunch" over there, but we are not in it for a minute with this bower of feminine loveliness. We are wishing of course you were with us, but it seems that can not be on this occasion. From your smiling faces, and the atmosphere that pervades this lovely scene, I know you are now all acquainted with each other and are supremely happy, and I know that you are going to have better speeches than we men folks can make! I wish to add that iti the long history of the H. M. M. B. A. I have never seen a lovelier scene than this "bunch of beauty" that is before me, and I congratulate you individually and collectively, and myself I congratulate upon having the opportunity, with your permission, of gazing in upon you and saying these few- inadequate words. i^^l^^^^n^^aS ^BMIHH s^aHmBuHK^ 4W^R B^HHpj^^^^H y^^^^^m l^flH ^P^M^H Hp|H sp^^^^lp i^^^ ^mmm ^^ One of the H. M. M. B. A. Groups in Paul de Longpre's Garden. In presenting Mrs. E. R. Farley, Mrs. Raymond spoke on ''The Sphere of \\'oman," and showed that while she shone as a wife and a mother, she was in her sphere whenever and wherever she was doing work that she could do, that needed to be done, and doing it well. "Such a woman," said she, "is Mrs. Farley." Mrs. E. R. Farley, whose subject was "A Woman Hotel Man," gave her experience in managing the Hotel Pepper. She said she had started at the bottom and in her ambition to manage a hotel, took over the Hotel Pepper, which was practically under the hammer, and by dint of hard work had put it on a sound foundation. She planned for a Greater Hotel Pepper and has demonstrated the possibility of operating an apartment annex of 150 rooms. Within two weeks the foundations will be started for the greater hotel. The TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 183 pluck shown by J\Irs. Farle_y won her a tribute in the shape of laurel wreaths which were tossed down the tables. Mrs. Barber of Boston then proposed that the ladies give a rising vote of thanks to the S. C. H. A. and their ladies for the banquet that had been given them, and the vote was unanimous and hearty, after which the toast- master introduced Mrs. Lee Holliday of Los Angeles by saying: "^\"e are known as prevaricators when we speak of California climate, but I can vouch for Mrs. Holliday as a truthful speaker." As Mrs. Holliday's subject was "California Yesterday and To-day." she was greeted with laughter, but solemnly declared that it is not true that "we can not talk about California unless we are prevaricators." And she proceeded, in fine poetical style, to tell of the land of sunshine and flowers, of orange groves and industries, and concluded by stating it is also a land of opportunities and resources. The last speech of the evening was by Mrs. J. \V. Mitchell on "The Gen- tlemen." and it was replete with expressions of confidence and bright with clever hits. Altogether, the occasion was a delightful one and one long to be remem- bered. The visitors as well as the home ladies were unanimous in their expressions of opinion that by this banquet the Loomis Bros, had crowned themselves with a new glory, and that Mrs. Raymond, as toastmaster, had filled the position with a dainty display of wit that stamps her as proficient in the art of striking chords from the human heart. She herself proposed the first toast. "Drink to our absent friends," which was given standing, and closed the banquet with the couplet: "Happy have we met, happy have we been, Happy may we part, and happy be our men." p 3 3 So, ft tc*^ r; J so u 55 CHAPTER VII THURSDAY, APRIL 14, 1910— PACIFIC OCEAN DAY Redondo Beach, Venice, Santa Monica and Hollywood Gathering togetlicr at the Hollenbeck Hotel, under the sheltering wing of President Mitchell, special electric cars were taken for Redondo Beach. This is one of the seaports of Los Angeles, and her shipping is not only an important industry but adds a picturesque touch to the life of this many- sided resort. Here may be seen the luxurious express steamers of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company, sailing regularly for San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle and other coastwise points, and here also are found lumber vessels of many kinds and from many lands. Sometimes an old-fashioned square- rigged barque from Australia is seen in port, while at the next wharf may be a modern steel steamer from Hawaii or Japan. Here we were shown Mr. Henry E. Huntington's cottage at Clifton-by- the-Sea, and then rapidly taken to the great Huntington Power Plant, which is the largest in the West, and the most modern and efficient in the world. The building is of reinforced concrete, and is unique from the fact that the concrete is made of gravel from the Moonstone Beach, containing many specimens of semi-precious stones. The plant cost more than $1,500,000, and gave to our visitors, better than words, a clear idea of the rapid growth of the country that requires such tremendous generating plants to supply the region with needed electric power. We were then taken to the Hot Salt Plunge, which is said to be the largest in the United States, if not in the world, and in point of finish and equipment is unequaled. The immense structure is 278x156 feet and contains 1,350 dressing-rooms, besides a complete Turkish and tub bath department. The swimming pools are three in number, being a "baby pool" 30x70 feet, with a depth of water ranging from one to two feet ; a high diving pool 30x70 feet, with water nine feet deep; and a main pool 70x157 feet, with water from three to five feet in depth. All the pools are supplied with a continuous flow of pure warm sea water from the great power plant. At most bathhouses pumping and heating are expensive luxuries, and the water is changed onlv at stated intervals, .^t the Redondo Beach Plunge the water changes constantlv, entering the pools in enormous volume through ornamental fountains, and being withdrawn at numerous outlets, insuring adequate circulation and perfect sanitary conditions, and no one is obliged to bathe in water formerly used by other bathers. While some ^\•ent in swimming, others picked up pebbles on Moonstone Reach, and still others walked up to the magnificent Hotel Redondo, for y. < ^5 S 188 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. years one of the show places of Southern California. Here they saw the acres and acres of carnations and sweet peas for which Redondo is famous. When exercise and sea air had fully sharpened all appetites, and some of the more hungry were calling for "raw hippopotamus," a delicious luncheon was served at the Dolphin, where great interest centered around the "corn-fed clams." When the appetites of all were fully satisfied, one of the brightest and wittiest addresses made to the association was given by Mr. C. H. Burnett, manager of the Los Angeles & Redondo Railway Co., and president of the Chamber of Commerce. He said ; Up to to-day you have, I understand, been guests of the Southern California Hotel Men's Association, but Mr. Mitchell and his associates have agreed to let us have a small share in the pleasure of entertaining you, and this morning you have been the joint guests of the Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce, the Los Angeles & Redondo Railway Company and the Southern California Hotel Men's Association, and on behalf of the Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce, I want to tell j'ou how glad we are to have the privilege of entertaining you. In the first place, I want to congratulate you upon the large and representative attendance at your convention; upon having transacted such a large amount of important business, and upon the harmonious and businesslike manner in which your deliberations have been conducted. I also wish to congratulate you upon being residents for even a few days of the great city of Los Angeles, and guests at Los Angeles hotels; and also upon having imbibed some very good Los Angeles ideas. I don't know what else you may have imbibed, but I am very glad to notice that you have contracted at least one good Los Angeles habit, and one which I am happy to say is very prevalent. In Los Angeles, as you know, the people are all hustlers and all work very hard, but they stop once in a w^hile for a little rest and recreation and a good dinner, and so I say that you are merely following a good Los Angeles custom when, at the first opportunity, you make a bee-line for the best beach city in California, and the best fish dinner on the Pacific Coast. I imagine some of my friends from the other beach resorts may want to know how I am going to prove that Redondo Beach is the best resort in California, and I will merely say to them that I do not have to prove it — I freely admit it. As far as the fish dinner is concerned, we have introduced that in evidence, and the evidence has been introduced into the jury, and I am therefore perfectly willing to leave the matter entirely to you. In the name of the Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce and our citizens generally, I bid you a hearty and cordial welcome. We are glad to see you, and we want you to have a good time. We are proud to entertain you and we are proud to show you our city. We know that we have the finest town in California, and we want everybody else to know it. It may be of interest to you to know that we are one of the oldest seaports on the Southern Coast, and one of the principal ports of entry for Los .Angeles. Over our wharves is handled an enormous tonnage of lumber, merchandise and oil, as well as many thousands of passengers. Our geographical location is such that we are the first port of call for Los Angeles traffic for vessels plying from San Francisco and other northern ports, and our commerce also includes large quantities of hardwood lumber from Japan and the Haw^aiian Islands. Our pro.ximity to the great Sherman oil fields, through which you will pass this afternoon, makes us the largest oil shipping port in Southern California. We are connected with Los Angeles by four lines of electric rail- way, and we are also the tide water terminus of the Santa Fe system. During the past year our lumber business has increased 30 per cent, our merchandise traffic 45 per ceni and our passenger traffic 75 per cent. In addition to its commercial advantages, Redondo Bcacli is also a pleasure resoii K i < K ^ m 3 !> a aci —J « r:'o -< 1 c ~ t« S-H ?; 7. g o <^ H <: >» z L> « w ■< 3 ^ TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 191 of many attractions, some of wliich you have seen, but it would be impossible to show you all of them in the limited time at your disposal. We only hope that some day you will all return and give us a better chance to entertain you. I neglected to ask Mr. Mitchell whether he proposed to run his Entertainment Com- mittee on the European plan or the American plan, but judging from the expressions I have heard to-day, I find he has been running it on the California plan. The difference between the European plan and the .American plan is well illustrated by an item I saw in the paper the other day under the head of "Answers to Correspondents," as follows; In the best society what do guests at leading metropolitan hotels usually order for breakfast? As I have never been away from home and am going to New York on my bridal tour, I shall appreciate any helpful hint. I am eighteen and my health is good. FLOSSIE. That depends. Should the hotel at which you stop be conducted on the European plan, you will write out this order: Coffee. Rolls, and Boiled Eggs. If, on the other hand, the American plan obtains, ask the waiter to bring you the following: Hot House Grapes Blood Oranges Oatmeal — Cream Bread Rolls Corn MufBns Scones Chocolate Broiled Salmon Creamed Potatoes Omelet with Mushrooms Porterhouse Steak Grilled Sweet Potatoes Hot Waffle.s — Maple Syrup If your health is VERY good, a .Jumbo Squab on Toast may precede the steak. Take the oranges to your room. Now if Mr. Mitchell had been running that breakfast on the California plan he would merely have added some humming-bird's tongues on toast, soine broiled flying fish, and a few other simple dishes that Flossie might have overlooked. Mr. Bohn thus describes the rest of the experiences of the day : "Our luncheon over, we proceed by trolley along the beach by Ocean Park and Santa Monica to Venice and are entertained on the ship hotel, to Hollywood, where light refreshments are served at the charming Hollywood Hotel (and here I may say as an aside, we also meet those veteran Michigan bonifaces who are spending the winter of their lives in summery California, H. F. Badger of Kalamazoo and Farnham Lyon of East Saginaw, accompanied by their wives). "Here we take autos and visit the beautiful General Otis home, Mr. Watkins' Sunken Gardens, and Arthur Letts' charming home and gardens, but the piece de resistance of this program in the beauty line is the studio and grounds of Paul de Longpre, where that celebrated flower painter greets us in person as we stroll through his garden with its five thousand rose bushes that surrounds his studio, and view with silent admiration and amazement his beautiful flower paintings. It is a never-to-be- forgotten half hour. This has been one long, lovely day of delightful surprises and entertainment." CHAPTER VIII FRIDAY, APRIL 15, 1910— CATALINA ISLAND AND LONG BEACH DAY The guests assembled at Hotel Haywards, the beautiful hotel of H. C. Fryman, the new president of the Southern California Hotel Association, and from thence took special trains of electric cars on the great Huntington system to San Pedro harbor, upon which the government is spending many millions to make it one of the large and safe harbors of the Pacific Coast. Although San Pedro is twenty miles away from Los Angeles, it has been duly embraced by that city — connected with a pan-handle, and is now legiti- Ma.x Tfcich, Phuto. An H. M. M. B. A. ■•group" on the steamer ■•Cabrillo" bound tor Santa Catallna, Cal. matcly and truly a part of Los Angeles, so that the enterprising metropolis of Southern California can now truthfully claim to be a seaport. And it will not be long before the pan-handle will be one grand boulevard lined with fine bungalows and other residences. At San Pedro the party boarded the steamer Cabrillo, one of the A\"ilmington Transportation Company's boats, with a capacity of 950 people, and was soon out of the harbor on to the broad Pacific. Everything was charming that day, perfect weather and sea going and coming, the whales, dolphins and flying fish performed as properly as if they were doing their "stunt" in a vaudeville show, and everybody was delighted. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 195 Santa Catalina Island is Southern California's most famous summer and winter resort. In all the world there is no more enchanting spot. This island is a mountain range at sea — twenty-two miles long — from one to seven miles wide — and its highest peak, 2,200 feet elevation. The coast line of the island is cut with innumerable bays, each beautiful and picturesque, each with a different background, bringing a constantly changing panorama of calm waters, smooth beaches, niany-hued rocks, lofiy cliffs, green canyons and mountain peaks — a combination of seashore and mountain scenery unec|ualed in the world. In one of these most enchanting bays has been built up the citv of Avalon, and here the Cabrillo landed the H. M. M. B. A. guests. The time tor this "Magic Isle" was all too short. Everybody wanted to see and "do" everything, and there wasn't time, so the crowd scattered, some to do one thing and some another, but all to be happy. i\Iany took the mountain coach ride in fine six-in-hand coaches, driven by Mr. George A. Greelev, formerly of I'asadena, and one of the best known whips and horsemen of California. George's coaches are all standard Concords, his horses are all good and "on the go," and his drivers perfect with whip, lines and brake. This ride is a magnificent one, giving one the finest kind of outlook ()\tr the valley, the shore line, the ocean and the mainland beyond. Some went boating and others bathing, but without exception, all went in the glass- bottomed boats. This is by far the best known of Santa Catalina's many unique attractions, and one wdiich no visitor to the island should miss. It aft'ords a view of the beautiful submarine gardens through glass-bottomed boats. These gardens have been eloquently described as follows : "Floating over the green and blue water in the glass-bottom boat, one sees the goings and comings of aquatic life. Here are shell-encrusted ro.'ks, fishes, red. green, gold, zigzagging leisurely among the waving foliage; here are real trees with long branches, waving as on land by a temjx'st : great fish of all shapes, lu.xuriant foliage, with branches bearing clusters of fruit resembling olives. Leaning over the transparencies in the Ijottom of the boats, people go into ecstasies." "Well, I surely will have things to tell the people at home when ] get there," remarked one Ohio boniface, "and I'll wager that when the people hear about these marine gardens, with trees as big as our own buckeyes, and gold fish, and silver ones, and ocean tomatoes and encumbers, they'll call me a liar, and tell me the California air must have gone to my head. Well, I'm most willing to believe anything I ever hear about Southern California after to-day, and it certainly will not be my last trip to this part of the world." The glass-bottom boat rides were not the only features on the program. The management of the Metropole Hotel was on hand with greetings and something more substantial, a dainty fish luncheon, Catalina sand dabs, famous the world over for their delicacy, white fish, and other dishes essential to a good menu were provided. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 197 Many walked up to see the open-air tlieater, where concerts by the world-famous Santa Catalina Band are given every evening, and where, unique in the history of America, no whispering or talking is allowed during the performances. Attendants are stationed all over the theater. Over the stand an electric transparency flashes forth a request for silence. The concert begins. Someone whispers. The attendant hears and approaches the offender, and pointing to the sign, it is so arranged as to flash out its warning as he points. If this warning does not answer an V^'-..- Palm Avenue, Hotel Virginia, not far from Long Beacli, Cal. "Please refrain from talking during rendition of band numbers. You will please eveiyone by granting this request. By special request of Executive Committee." If this pointed request fails, the third oft'ense is met by the attendant politely leading the whisperer where he belongs, viz., away from the concert and into disgrace. The result is that one can enjoy a concert better at Santa Catalina in the open air than in Chicago. Boston, or Xew York — for the writer has attended concerts in them all. The whistle for "All aboard" came all too soon. Everyone regretted that they had not more time at Catalina. Two hours later they boarded the Salt Lake trains at San Pedro and were carried in a few minutes to 198 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Long Beach and Hotel Virginia where the Long Beach Band was on hand to discourse sweet music, and a hundred automobiles were lined up to take the guests through the city. Some, however, preferred to take a dip in the plunge bath of the Hotel Virginia. As Henr^^ J. Bohn well wrote : "The day's program was finished with an elaborate dinner served by Carlton Gilbert at the Virginia. The great dining-room was beautifully decorated and the party was an unusually large one. Many of the local ])eople as well as some of our Eastern delegates bringing Los Angeles friends. .\ feature of this fine dinner, besides decorations and orchestra. Beautii'ul Hi_'te! \'irginia. Long Beat-h, Cal. One of the finest and best beach liotels in tlie world. was a song — unexpectedly requested and granted — by Mrs. Walter Ray- mond, wife of the proprietor and owner of the Raymond at Pasadena, who is a notable songstress. After the dinner there was dancing in the great ballroom and moonlight strolls on the beach, and so charmed were some of our H. Al. AI. B. A. people with the magnificent hotel that they did not return to the city with the special trolle}-s, but sta3'ed over night to be lulled to sleep by the 'sad sea waves.' " The decorations of the lianquct hall were of a peculiar California type. From the lobby, great strings of wistaria blooms mounted to the dome, formed above a fountain of sparkling water in the center of the hall. The TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 199 fountain was a creation of callas, roses and greenery. On each table a fragrant centerpiece of roses graced the scene. The Hotel Virginia was a complete surprise to all the Easterners. As John Willey well said in his "Hotel Monthly" : "This great hotel, on the edge of the Pacific C)cean, set in a green lawn, with magnificently furnished public rooms and modern equipped throughout, was a great surprise to the visitors, who little dreamed of so great and fine a hotel on a Pacific Coast beach. I'.ut the hotel is there; and a demonstration was made of its quality and cajjacity at a banquet at which 550 guests were comfortably seated in the main dining-room, 63 by 210 feet. The ])an(|uet was introduced by the sudden darkening of the room and flashlight illumina- tion outside the windows, presenting a startling elifect. The management BgiLiiiri^ i i ii i f n i iii ii i ifw On tilt- HhlicIi. in-;ii' the H"t-1 Viliiiniii, L:ing Beai h. Ca'ifunii,' had provided for 450 guests, and 550 were seated when the first course was brought in. The elaborate menu was served in full to all, and Manager Gilbert received the congratulations of the entertainment committee on the skilful manner in which the banquet was handled under the trying condi- tions of serving at an hour's notice, and without crowding the tables, or altering his menu, a hundred more in addition to the 450 he had provided for. It was a catering feat that has made Carleton Gilbert famous." The building is of reinforced concrete and is a million-dollar structure, as fireproof as modern science knows how to construct a building. South of the hotel spreads the endless Pacific, to the north one overlooks the city of Long Beach, and in the distance the snow-strewn Sierra Madre mountains, wdiile to the east and west stretches the beautiful silver strand giving to Long Beach its name. •200 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. ^L B. A. The lobb}- with its cokimiis of marble, classical decoration and beautiful hangings, rich Oriental rugs, rare Japanese bronzes, embroideries and exquisite paintings, elicits admiration. Here one may actually realize what the hero of the '"Bohemian Girl" only dreamt of, for the song declares 'T dreamt that I dwelt in marble halls." For balls on a large and grand scale, the Louis XIV ballroom, with its ball bearing floor and numerous exits leading to the breeze-swept colon- nades, has no equal on the coast, and is the scene of much gaiety at all seasons. In addition to the weekly hops, many of society's most exclusive dances are held here. The grand salon is equal in size, charm and equipment to the lobby, and the exquisite taste manifested throughout is not the least of its allurements. The (Jiand .Marble L-.>bb.v. Hulel \irgiiiia, Lung Beaeh, Califulllia The dining-room is especially attractive in its quiet and unostentatious dignity. It is done after the Gothic style of architecture. The windows fronting south overlook the Pacific. There are no draughts — the ventilation is after the most approved idea — and every table has its own telephone, electric candelabra and individual floral decorations. One of the special features of the Hotel Virginia is the Lanai or Sun- parlor. It is located on the great corridor, overlooking the gay throngs on the beach and the wide stretch of the Pacific beyond, where steamers plying up and down the coast, numerous yachts, fishing boats, sailing vessels, launches and pleasure craft of every description give pleasing touches to the exquisite blue of the ocean. Here, in this sheltered spot one may take TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 201 afternoon tea, or after-dinner coffee, or even have a meal served — a feature that Southern Californians are just beginning fully to appreciate. Those who wish to be entirely out of doors at these informal or formal functions find the colonnade a convenient and commodious place for such festivities. The bedrooms, as one would expect of such a hotel, are models. There are over 400 of them, and of these, over 300 are provided with individual bathrooms. The ^'irginia tennis courts are concrete floored and canvas wind-shielded in an environment conducive to the utmost enjoyment of this popular pastime. Here annually assemble players of international fame to contest championship games before well-filled galleries of keenly interested spectators. Altogether the Virginia was a delight and surprise to all our guests, and the delightful dinner so exquisitely and perfectly served reflected the greatest credit upon the management. The Virginia was opened for its summer season by Mr. Carl Stanley, who was its acting manager when CARI. STANLEY. Carl Stanley, manager of Hotel Virginia, Long Beach, began Inis liotel life at the Van Nu.vs Hotel in Los Angeles as bellboy. His promotion was rapid, and he served as front clerk, night clerk, room clerk, and chief clerk diii'ing the nine years of his occupation there. He then came to the Hotel Virginia, as cliief clerk, under D. JL Linnard, worked one winter at the .Maryland, 1908-0;i, with him, and then opened the Virginia, on May .'!1, ISOii, as man- ager, and ran it until March 1, 1910. He then accepted a position with the Portland Hotel, Portland, Ore., I'eturning to take charge of the Virginia again .June 15, 1B09. 202 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. first opened. Mr. Staiik"_\''s rapid rise to prominence in the hotel field is a proof of his laudai^le ambition and superior abilities, and in his hands it is confidently expected that the Virginia will become one of the most profitable, as it already is, the most beautiful of the beach resorts of this portion of the Pacific Ocean. The city of Long Beach is one of the marvels of the West. Thirty years ago nothing but a stretch of fine sand, the ocean on one side and a cattle ranch on the other, it now has an active, cultured and refined population of over 20,000 souls, and is growing rapidly. Two transcontinental railway:; have Pacific Coast connections here, the Southern Pacific, and the "Salt Lake," while the Pacific Electric runs express trains to and from Los Angeles with frequency. Recognizing that much of its patronage comes from the interior and from those who enjoy atitomobiling the city and countv authorities have prepared miles of fine roads, and in November, 1910. a new and well-constructed automobile boulevard reaching from Los Angeles to Long Beach will be formally opened. This will allow of a rapid run in one's own machine from Los Angeles after business hours in time for dinner, and many are already planning to avail themselves of this grand opportunity — fleeing from the city, taking a fine ride surrounded by magnificent scenerv, the breezes and health-giving ozone from the ocean, dinner at Hotel \'irginia, and either remaining over night in i^ne of the finest of bedrooms and most comfortable of beds and returning to business in the morning after breakfast, or, if necessary, returning by the light of the moon, or what is nearly as good, by the clear light of a Ijattery of automoljile lamps. I-~or a week-end recreation and rest this ride and the rest at Hotel Virginia is simp!}' ideal. Another feature that renders Hotel \'irginia unique is its Art Gallery, started about a year ago by the indefatigable efl'orts of Mrs. R. Heber Jackson. The intent is to place on exhil:)ition a fine collection of works of art, especiallv of California artists, and the showing already made has been most gratifying to all concerned. CHAPTER IX SATURDAY. APRIL 16. 1910-EARLY CALIFORNIA DAY The Vaquero Club and the " Days of Forty-Nine " Smoker at Hotel Alexandria This was a historic day and a da}' long to be remembered by our visitors. It was a peculiarly happy idea to present such a day and the committee deserve great credit for originating and carrying it out so successfully. A hundred years ago and less California had its heroic age — a day when the cowboy was king. Cattle ranged its thousand hillsides and valleys and the vaquero — the Spanish or Mexican cowboy — with la riata tied to his saddle rode the range day and night at the time of the rodeo, or roundup, to bring in all the animals that could he found. Their horses, most of then: less in size and weight than the horse of the Eastern States, looked insig- nificant and scrubby compared with the heavy solid saddle animals ridden Ijy the Puritans and their descendants, but when in action they seemed to be imbued with the spirit of the tornado. Thej- were shod with lightning; the whirlwind coursed through their veins : they rode upon the wings of the storm. ^^'ith their masters upon their backs, the two worked so perfectly together that they were veritable Centaurs. Ovck the wild, rough, rocky hillsides or undulating plain, regardless of boulders, rocks, brush, briar, thicket or fallen trees, dashed the trained animal bearing his rider as though he were a feather-weight. Dodging hither and yon, to right or left, as the obstacles in the way demanded, or boldly leaping all that could not be dodged, it required that the rider be unconscious of his seat or he soon had no seat. He must be an expert or he could be nothing in that real arena. For — and here let me whisper in your ear, gentle reader — those horses that you so despised are the descendants of the proud scions of the Arabian deserts — horses that were worth a king's ransom, or, to use more modern phraseology, horses that would cost as much as an American girl generallv pavs for a European count or no-account. After the epoch of the discovery of gold, when the first fever had died out, and the miner lost his ascendancy, the cowbo}- became the king, and for some twenty or thirty years ruled supreme. The stories of the lariat (a corruption of la riata). or the lasso, were told about the fireside and the open-air campfire, as now we tell stories of the latest victory in golf, tennis, or baseball, or the adventures of daring motorcyclists or automo- bilists. .\nd the achievements of those days were wonderful, they were brave, they were heroic. They stimulated blood, brain, muscle, nerve, to emulation and equal accomplishment, and were a good school for education in daring and braverv. 204 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Hence it was a most appropriate thing that Los Angeles, once the proud capital of the province of California while it was under Mexican rule, should have organized a club to retain and foster all that was good and inspiring, in the days of the A'aquero, as far as his skill with the riata was concerned, his daring open-countr}' riding, his feats of horse- manship in the corral or on the road, and that should recall the flavor of his amusements when his day's work was done. The Vaquero Club is this peculiar!}- Southwestern institution. A vaquero is a cowboy. In California, especially, the vaquero found a paradise. Its perfect climate, its great valleys and mountain foothills where hundreds of thousands of sheep, goats, horses and o.xen could roam in unrestrained freedom to revel in luscious, fattening and strengthening grasses, made the life of the vaquero a happy and contented one. For what more joyous to ov^'ner or tender of herds of cattle or sheep than to see them growing and increasing in value every day, with little or no effort, and in the most perfect climate the world affords. Never too hot, never too cold, the weather delighted the vaquero as well as benelited the stock, so the life of the cowboy in California became the ideal, out-of-door, free life that everj-- one envied, everyone wished to enjoy. But this was only the "business side" of his life. California was an isolated countr}- from the rest of the world, and it had to find its pleasures among its own people, and through them. There were no theaters, concert halls, opera houses, nickelodeons, vaudevilles or moving-picture shows in those days, from 1770 to 1846, these practically being the days of the cowboy. For the Missions of California began to be established about 1770, and Spanish and Mexican settlement of California began then, and their power and influence lasted until the day that the Stars and Stripes were raised in the old capital of JNIonterey in 1846. During these years the cowboy was a factor at all the gatherings for pleasure of the people. Horseback was the chief, indeed practically the only mode of conveyance. Men, women and children rode horseback. And what horses ! They were of Moorish and Arabic stock, brought over by the old Spanish grandees, and in this well-favored clime they Ijred as perfectly as in their own home. The result was that when American trading vessels began to come to the coast of California, early in the century, they found here the finest horses, with the most skilled riders, of both sexes, that the whole .\merican con- tinent could boast. And the literature of those days is full of vivid and enthusiastic descriptions of the horsemanship of the vaqueros, and the rancheros and c\'erybody else of those splendid days of pastoral California. .\ book twice the size of this might be written containing nothing more ihan quotations from the writings of visitors to California, or residents here, before 1846, who descrilied the horses and the various ways in which they were used for business and pleasure — the skill of the California ranchero and vaquero, the long distances ridden, the way the horses were trained for their work in the cowherd or horseherd. their marvelous readiness to TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 205 be trained so that they understood the needs of the vaquero, tlieir abiUty to hold a refractory steer or horse, and a thousand and one things of equal interest and fascination. Hence it was natural that some time in the history of California, after the American began to find a little leisure on his hands, that he should begin to think of those happy and glorious days when the vaquero was a power in the land. Accordingly as Los Angeles grew in size and importance, it was sug- gested that it have a "fiesta," where many of these old memories should be revived, incorporated with modern features to attract the crowds from all parts of the country. For many years this "fiesta" was carried on as a regular "institution" in Los Angeles. At one of the fiestas, five years ago, the Grand Marshal was Dr. G. A. Scroggs, an old-timer, who was familiar with the descendants of the old Spanish and Mexican families. He thought it would be a picturesque and interesting feature of the fiesta parade if a number of vaqueros and their friends who were excellent riders would appear and give an exhibition of the kind of riding and horseback sports that were common "before the gringo came." Xo sooner said than done. The idea was received with favor, and when the day of the fiesta parade appeared, the vaqueros were pronounced one of the leading features, and to many, by far the most picturesque, interesting and historic feature of the whole parade. From that sprang the idea of the "Vaquero Club." .Such a club should — as its first president. Dr. Fred C. Shurtlefif, has said — "Make a home where a number of congenial people could unite to perpetuate not only the life of the old vaquero, but help bring back many of the customs, sports and pleasures of the early California days : their dances, their fiestas, their barbecues, their riding expeditions, their dancing on horseback, and all the other distinctive features of the pleasures that made their life so happy. Dr. Shurtlefif had married a daughter of one of the old Spanish rancheros, hence he was acquainted with all the Spanish and Mexican families of the region, and no sooner was the idea broached than it was put into operation. A "home place" for the club was found at the ranch of Mr. J. C. Plummer. near Colegrove, and known as Oakhurst, and members were carefully chosen. The club meets regularly once a month throughout the year, when an old-time Spanish barbecue is provided, and feats in horsemanship, dancing, singing and other enjoyments indulged in. While every member of the club may bring his wife, sister, daughter, sweetheart or friend, there are only three lady members of the club, and these were elected as "honorary members" for special reasons. These ladies are Miss Frances Plummer, who was the club's first secretary, Mrs. Bottler, and Miss Talamantes. The members may invite visitors, but no one visitor can be invited more than twice the same year. The club has several distinguished honorary members (besides the ladies named), such as Hon. W. F. Cody (Bufifalo Bill). Jesus Lopez of the Fort Tejon Range, ex-President Roo-^e- velt and others. 206 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The club has participated in all civic events of importance that have occurred since its organization, where horsemanship was required, such as the fiestas, parades, escorts of celebrities and the like. When the U. S. fleet anchored in the Los Angeles harbor, off San Pedro, the Vaquero Club escorted Admiral Evans and his officers and men. in the parade, and prepared a day of sports for their enjoyment. The noted horseman, Charles Meadows, better known as Arizona Charley, aided in this entertainment, which included, among other features, the holding up of an overland stage, and rescue by cowboys, steer tying, bull riding, handling wild and iDUcking broncos, throwing wild steers bv the horns, relav races, etc. Riding a Buctcing Kronco at the Vaquero Club, for tlie entertaininent of the H. M. ^1. B. A. The Vaquero Club has its own special costume, designed after the most approved of the Spanish-California models. It may be called the replica of a dandy Caballero"s costume, with all the trappings of carved leather saddle and bridle, with silver mountings, silver spurs and the like. The club originally began by using the ordinary "shaps" of the modern "cowboy." but it was found that this costume, while perfectly appropriate for rough out-door use, was neither of historic interest as showing the old-style costume, nor picturesque enough for fiesta occasions. The Club now comprises among its members many of the leading Spanish Californians of Southern California, judges, bankers, doctors, lawyers, TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST ■207 professors and others, all of whom are excellent horsemen, who love cross- country ritling. who enjoy the simple barbecued foods of the olden time, and who are ready to meet the handsome dark-eyed senoras and senoritas of Spain and ]\Iexico, or the dark-haired, blue-eyed matrons and maidens of California in the mazes of Spanish, German, French and American dances, but who (.specialh- cnjov the "soniljreni blancii," "la jota." or "la camote," of Spanish-California days. With all this romance behind it, therefore, it was appropriate that the S. C. 1!. A. should arrange with the \'aquero Club for a Spanish Fiesta Dav, during the visit of the H. M. M. I!. A. Joe Romero, the noted Barbecue Chef t,( the Los Angeles Vaquero Club, preparing meats for the entertainment of the H. M. M. B. A. The invitation was tssentialh' \'aquero Club style, for on the cover, which, ])\ the way, was tied with a strip of buckskin, was a steer, a tamale. a string of red peppers, a glimpse of a California mission campanile, a padre, and a carreta, with the United States and Mexican flags intertwined and bound b\' a shield bearing the monogram of the \'aquero Club. Inside, the contents were as characteristic, there were engravings show- ing the Dancing of the Iota, a carreta, a danza at the old ramada, barbe- cuing the meats, and a scene of a Spanish play, etc. The guests assembled at 10 o'clock at the Occidental Hotel, on Hill street, where the genial host, George \\ . \'on Ache and his two sons and 208 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. i)artners, Nard and Garrison, entertained them until the special cars were ready. The guests were quickly conveyed to the Plummer ranch where the headquarters of the Vaquero Club are located. Here before the tan- bark covered square, where the feats of horsemanship were to take place, an abundance of seats had been provided. After the presentation of all the officers of the Club, and those who were particularly to engage the attention of the guests, Dr. Fred C. Shurtleff, the first president and founder of the Club, recited in a most touching manner the following beautiful poem : THE COWBOY'S PRAYER By Charles B. Clark, Jr. Lord, I 've never lived where churches grow ; I love creation better as it stood That day You finished it so long ago And looked upon Your work and called it good. 1 know that others find You in the light That 's sifted down through tinted window panes. And yet, I seem to feel You near to-night In this dim, quiet starlight on the plains. I thank You, Lord, that I am placed so well ; That You have made my freedom so complete ; That I'm no slave of whistle, clock and bell, Or weak-ej-ed prisoner of wall and street. Just let me live my life as I've begun And give me work that 's open to the sky : Make me a partner of the wind and sun And I won't ask a life that 's soft or high. Let me be easy on the man that "s down And make me square and generous with all ; I'm careless sometimes. Lord, when I'm in town. But never let them say I'm mean or small. Make me as big and open as the plains, As honest as the horse between my knees. Clean as the wind that blows behind the rains. Free as the hawk that circles down the breeze. Forgive me, Lord, when sometimes I forget : You understand the reasons that are hid. You know about the things that gall and fret. You know me better than my mother did. Just keep an eye on all that 's done and said. Just right me sometimes when I turn aside. And guide me on the long, dim trail ahead That stretches upward toward the Great Divide. TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 209 The cheers and applause that greeted him showed to Dr. Shurtlcff that both poem and its recital had thoroughly captured his Eastern audience. Then came the feats of horsemanship according to the program. .Vnd what can one say of these "feats" sa\-e that the ladies and gentlemen per- formed them with the spirit, the vim, the grace and the readiness of the old days. The feature of the afternoon was the riding of the wild horse, "Grave Digger." by Mrs. Dell Blancett of Sterling, Colorado. The vicious horse had to be roped and thrown before the daring woman could get on it, l)ut once mounted all the animal's efforts proved insufficient to unseat her. She was awarded the first prize b}- the judges, selected from among the hotelmen. and her husband was given second prize. In the tug-of-\var on horseback, Dick Stanley of Portland, Oregon, who wears the world's championship belt for riding bucking horses, was awarded the prize. Then the cry came, "To the festive board !" A large "ramada" had been built in primitive style and there the quaint meal was served. Alany of the guests had found time to visit the cooking shed, where Joe Romero, the noted barbecue chef, reigned supreme. The barbecue pits were giving forth appetizing odors, and Joe and his helpers were slicing rich meats, and cook- ing others over the glowing coals on a ten-foot square gridiron. Women were preparing huge dishes of chili and other vegetable dishes, firey hot with peppers, but delicious and healthful. Great steaming cans of cofifee gave forth the only familiar odor. There is no denying the fact that those Eastern guests can eat when they have a fair opportunity and room for their strength. Here, their appetites sharpened by their out door morning and ride, and breathing the pure out door air as they ate, they did full justice to dishes, with none of which were thev at first familiar. But strangeness did not seem to be any bar to appetite. Plate after plate full was deftly removed, and still there were calls for more. When all were satisfied, the dances began, and many enjoyed this feature of the entertainment more than any other. The first "danza" was "El Som- brero lilanco." To the strain of guitar, mandolin, violin, flute and cornet the dance began. Each movement meant something in its charming grace and delicate. This "\^■hite Hat" dance takes one back to the days of the founding of the city of Los Angeles. Tradition handed down from father to son, tells how the caravan of the founders came to El Rio Porcinuncula (the river of the pigs, as the Los .\ngeles river was known to the natives), and camped on the east bank. An old grand dame, called to her grand child to run down and see if he could find water. The wanderers were weary with travel and thirsty after their long march over the desert and waterless land. The lad soon returned from the river bed, so the tradition goes, with a gourd filled with cool, sparkling water. "For Dio. This is the Queen of the Angels," devoutly and thoughtfully exclaimed the thirsty woman. It was the special gift of the Virgin. 210 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. J_>;incing one of the old time Spanish Danut-s — l^a Jola — for the entertainment of the H. M. M. B. A. at the I^os Angeles Vaquero Club. TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 211 Soon the caravan was at the water's edge drinking joyfully. Then, refreshed and happy, they trooped u]), onto the western bank of the river, and as soon as camp was made, "El Paderon Blanco" (the white bluff), and "EI Sombrero Blanco" (the white hat), was announced. The dance is full of meaning. First there is the archness and coy hesitation of the maidens as the sweet music brings out the words from the throats of the dancers, all the time the dance is going on. Here is a translation of the song: If you wish me to love you, Make brick the ocean Hoor. .•\fter all of }-our love's labors. Time will tell the score. Still dancing, no moment at rest, comes back the answer of the cavaliers. It is their time to answer the problem put before them. I take the ocean for the water; For cement I take the sand ; Fishes will furnish brick that's needed; So lo ! I have won }-our hand. Then comes the chorus from wdiich the dance receives its name. Each cavalier is striving to place his sombrero on the head of his partner as he weaves in and out gracefully from one dark-eyed senorita to another. If she keeps the hat upon her head that is her acceptance of his suit. Here are the words to this part of the song: Do 3-ou wish to wear my white hat? Or shall my blue hat be your crown? What do you wish, my own true loved one, To place you on the throne ? Then followed "Los Camotes," the sweet potato dance. This used to be ds .cetl in the old mission days, in the patio, in grateful thankfulness for the abundance of the crops. It is a most graceful dance, with the caxaliers kneeling as the final words, "Adios, adios, Adoremos," are sung. La Jota, or the "flourishing joy" is a longer dance than the others. ( )nly a small part of it was given on this occasion, as to complete it requires fully three hours. Among the dancers on this occasion were Senor Pedro Lugo and his son and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. E. R. Plummer and their daughter, and Mrs. Fred C. Shurtlelif. Their dancing was pronounced by the hotelmen to be far more beautiful and graceful than that of the Americans. Manx- of the costumes worn were of extreme age, the one worn by Mrs. Plummer being over one hundred years old and of especial significance, it 212 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. V,. A. having been first worn by a Spanish dame at a great state ball given in Monterey in early days. Altogether the entertainment of the Vaquero Club was most novel and enjoyable, as well as unique, and its memories will be long in fading from the minds of those who witnessed it. The Days of Forty-nine Smoker at Hotel Alexandria \\'hen night came, though most of the visitors were surfeited with sight- seeing, they could not resist the temptation to come out and see the Forty- nine Camp. As Mr. John Willey of the Hotel ]\Ionthly well said: At the Vaquero Club — From left to right: Charles "Silver-plater" Allen, Wm. Lunny, Indian girl, "Skipper" Carrigan, William Vali- quette and Mrs. Carrigan. If there had been surprises before, here surely was one that capped the climax ! The banquet room on the mezzanine floor had been converted into a Forty-niner mining camp. On entering each guest was presented with "Our Biznes Card," which read : City Direktory Chineze Opeum Den on Santa Fe Trail ; Lunsh Kounter, Salune and Roulet wheel on Square Street ; Segars, Sigerets and Faro on Paradise Alley ; Musick and Danse Hall on Oregon Trail ; Red Egels Flours on Paradise Alley ; If Vou \^'ant More Information Ast The Sheref (or look on other side). TO CALIFORNIA A\D THE PACIFIC COAST 213 And on the reverse side was a list of the "goods" that one could secure at the bar. The idea was to transport the visitor back fifty years or more and let him Hve for the evening in the days of forty-nine and the early fifties, when the gambler flourished, when the miner was supreme, when the barroom and dance hall and gambling place was the center of civic life and California was only beginning to awaken to the culture and progress that was to dis- tinguish its later years, and of which the men have seen such evidences during their stay in this city. On one side, as the visitors entered the door, was the "Last Chance" saloon in full operation, lighted b}' candles and lanterns, with local men garbed as its motley crew of nightly visitors enjoying themselves. Farther around the room was found the "Gold Nugget" lunch room, where the Roulette and Faro in the 4Sier Camp. H. M. M. B. A. smoker, Ale.xandria Hotel, Los Angeles. guests were invited to eat sandwiches and smoke. Next was the faro layout, with an expert dealer in charge and an expert case keeper. Huge piles of chips and of real money lined the sides of the table, and here, too, characters in cowboy and Mexican costumes kept coming and investing their surplus change. Scenes Gay in Dance Hall Then there was the "Grub Stake" dance hall, with its bevy of pretty dancing girls, who imitated to perfection the dances of years ago, to the tune furnished by a ragged ragtime jiiano player. \vho operated on the old well- battered piano. Hanging from the middle of the dance hall was the sign, "Remember the dancing girls is ladies — Don't get gay or they are liable to shoot h out of you." 2U THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. H. A. Beyond the dance hall was, perhaps, the most interesting feature of the whole affair. In a little hole in the wall lay two real Chinamen smoking genuine opium as only the Chinese know how. With loving care each one roiled and cooked his little "pill" of "hop" and smoked it while the guests stood and looked on. This feature was under the care of "Lame Jack." one of the best-known characters of the local Chinese colony, who said he was having hard work to keep his celestials there, owing to the fact that they hated to be watched in their operations. Further on was the roulette wheel, under the charge of a skilful manipu- lator, and this also had stacks of chips and money on it. The guests were shown just how it was operated and witnessed the fictitious winning and losing of sums of monev on its festive whirl. The Last ■•Chanst" .Saloon, in the '49er Camp, Alexandria Hotel smnkei- for the H. M. M. B. A. In the center of the back wall of the room was a waterfall, which added the final wild, out-of-doors touch to the whole. Around the side were street lamps with directions for the strangers printed upon them, and on each post were warnings telling all what not to do. One of these, near the faro outfit, stated that "The management would not support the widders of gents holding five aces." In the saloon were such warnings as "partner name your pizen," "a bonanza of boose," "this is no bank ; cough up your dust and float away," "straight whiskey — 25 ; straighter — 50." Thrown across the hitching rail in front was a beautifully mounted saddle and bridle, left there supposedly by some cowboy on the inside enjoying himself. While the fun in the mining camp was at its height, a minstrel troupe appeared on the scene. It was made up entirely of members of the New York special. John McGlynn, of the Rensselear. Troy, X. Y., with a great bass voice, rather hoarse from the strain of talking all week, acted as inter- TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 215 lociitor. F. N. Bain, president of the New York Hotel Men's Association, led the band, all playing tin horns and baby drums. Frederick Austin Reed, of the Park Avenue Hotel, New York, and Edward M. Tierney, of the Marl- borough, New York, the men who brought the New Yorkers across the desert, were the end men. Their line of talk was conclusive in its foolishness. It was a sparkling and fascinating scene and evidently pleased every- body. Another of the interesting features was, as Mr. Henry J. Bohn wrote, that, "Mingled with the crowd, were a number of the leading citizens of Los Angeles, made up as characters of the '49 days, miners, cowboys, tender- feet. Spanish brigands. \\'eary-\\'illies. etc., even including a live burro that makes itself at home in the crowded room. We are carried awav with A glimpse of Paradise Alle.v in '49er Camp. H. M. M. B. A. smoker, Alexandria Hotel, L.OS Angeles, Cal. admiration for the ingenuitv and versatility of the scene, and surely it must have required an .\laddin"s lamp in the hands of Joe Reichl, assistant manager of the Alexandria, whom his superior, Mr. Whitmore, gives credit for the production of this wonderful picture. Never, no. never, will the H. .M. M. B. A. ladies and gentlemen forget the Ale.xandria 'smoker.' It is one iif the things one can not forget, and to conceive, produce and carry out such a picture of the rough, wild days of California without offending the feelings or sensibilities of any sensible minded man or woman, yet instruct entertain and charm, is surely a great feat." 216 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. I',. A. Millo ir. Pottei-, Proprietor ■>!' Hotel Potter, Sunta Harbara. California. CHAPTER X SUNDAY, APRIL 17, 1910— SANTA BARBARA AND SAN LUIS OBISPO DAY At midnight of Saturday the special trains left Los Angeles for Santa Barbara. \\'hen the guests awoke on the morning of Sunday they were opposite the beautiful Mission depot of the Southern Pacific Co., and directly across the way were the grounds of the striking Hotel Potter, whose fame had already reached from the Pacific to the Atlantic. Mr. Harry D. Clark, of the New Arlington Hotel, with his charming wife and sweet little daughter, were waiting at the depot with a bus-load of flowers, which they distributed broadcast, especially showering the ladies with their sweetness, beauty and fragrance. It was a walk of a few moments to reach the large dining-room of this beautiful hotel, where an excellent breakfast — such as have made Milo M. Potter's name famous throughout the Epicurean world — was provided. After doing full justice to this, the visitors thronged the hotel, enjoying its various unique features, wandered through the fifteen-acre geranium garden, went down to the bathhouse, took an automobile ride or went up to service at the old Mission. Through the courtesy of Mr. Joseph P. McCann, the New York party was taken for a drive to Santa Barbara i\Iission. Later on, while the Chicago and New England delegations were being entertained at luncheon at Hotel Potter, the New Yorkers were lunched as the guests of Mr. McCann. The Potter Hotel The Potter Hotel is built on the knoll formerly occupied by Burton's Spring House. It was erected in 1902 and represents an investment of more than a million and a quarter of dollars. It has accommodations for one thousand guests, and is open all the year. Every room is an outside room with outlook on either mountain or sea. It sits in a floral park of thirty-si.x acres — aljout one thousand feet from the sea. Its mile-long walk, bordered with brilliant geraniums, is one of the sights of California. There are more than thirt}- thousand rose bushes in the rose gardens, while the cacti and other gardens afl'orcl interesting botanical studies. The broad palm-bordered boulevard between the Potter grounds and the beach is the popular promenade of Santa Barbara. Santa Barbara has long been famous for its climate, the most equable and delightful known to man. Naples. Nice, Cairo, Honolulu and the Islands of the Sea do not compare with it in climatic advantages. 218 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. /LJS r. ). Clark hrouglit i o the station at le ladies of the and Mrs. Clark ;ila Teieh dLstrib- i?s# ^H[ ■ Mr. and Mrs. Harr.N- I nis-load of llowers t Santa Barbara for t H. M. M. B. A. Mr. Miss Clark and Mis.s I iti'd tlieni. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 219 Seaward, the long shore Hue runs ahnost east and west, with a greater exposure to the southern sun than any other bit of coast line on the Pacific. Landward, the rock-ribbed range of the Santa Ynez Mountains crowds up close to the sea, encircling the valley like a protecting bulwark, shutting off alike both excessive heat and cold. One corner of Hotel Potter. Santa Barbara. California. A more charming environment can not be imagined, and the Hotel Potter in its matchless situation provides everything to enable the visitor to enjoy the advantages of climate and surroundings to the utmost. Hotel Potter is an immense establishment in the old Mission style of architecture. It has wide verandas, roof gardens and sun porches, from which an inspiring view of the Santa Barbara Channel with the purple 220 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. I',. A. On tlie Veranda of the Potter Country Club — -iverlooking the Polo Field. On the Racetrack at the Potter Country Club. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 221 islands in the distance, or the mighty mountains, is obtained. This channel is the official place where speed tests of U. S. warships, built on the coast. are always made. Hotel Potter crowns the knoll formerly known as Burton Mound, on which for unknown centuries a healing sulphur spring of won- derful medicinal quality has bubbled forth. The hotel is built over this and the water still sparkles up into a marble basin, in the lobby. The beautiful grounds surround the building, extending down to the Palm Boulevard which fronts on the beach and the sea. In them one finds acres of velvet lawns, towering palms, rose gardens containing thousands of rose bushes which bloom almost the year through, a full mile of asphalt walks and driveways, bordered by banks of scarlet geraniums, cactus gardens, lily beds, and hundreds of other flowers and shrubs. In one part of the grounds is a menagerie and deer park, containing specimens of California deer. Here, also, are located the garage and livery stables. Four excellent tennis courts are found within the hotel grounds. These are of asphalt and up to the full regulation professional requirements. Spectators' seats adjoin. "Los Banos Del Mar," as the baths which are situated on the beach, within three minutes' walk of Hotel Potter, are called, furnish ample accommodation for all who indulge in sea bathing. They are equipped with large tanks, into which warm salt water is pumped, and have the spring boards, slides and other equipment for the pleasure of the bathers. From there, it is but a step to the beach, where the gentle surf comes rolling in without undertow. The summer temperature of the water is from 68° to 74°, falling on rare occasions in winter to 60°. Hotel Potter table has long been recognized as the standard by which others are judged, ^^'hile there are man}- reasons for this, two of them stand out unique. The first is that Hotel Potter maintains its own dairy and stock ranch, on which the milk, eggs, vegetables, butter, cream and cheese and much of the pork, beef, veal and lamb used on its table, are produced. It also has its own squab and poultry ranch, conducted exclu- sivelv for its use, and some sixty thousand birds are raised here annually. In the harbor are anchored many private yachts, sailing boats and high- powered motor boats. Santa Barbara Channel is one of the most attractive to the yachtsman, and each year the annual regattas which are held here bring a fleet together of white-sailed vessels and power boats representing nearly every important club on the Coast. During these events the Hotel Potter is the recognized headquarters and the center of all the social activities. The Santa Barbara Channel affords splendid deep-sea fishing and many large catches are made there each season. Yellow-tail, barracuda, tuna, sea bass, rock cod and many others are among the most plentiful. The Potter Country Club as an adjunct to the Hotel Potter, offers its members and guests not only every facility for all sorts of out-door sports, but the comforts and conveniences of any first-class club. 222 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. It occupies about one hundred and fifty acres of the celebrated Hope Ranch. It is five miles from the Hotel Potter, and is reached by automobile bus which leaves the hotel on schedule time each day, or by horseback, carriage, or private motor over excellent roads. The clubhouse is commandingly situated on a knoll above Laguna Blanca, a pretty fresh water lake about seventy-five acres in extent. It is charming in style and is equipped with lockers and baths for men and women, a comfortable grill and buffet, card rooms and a spacious lounging room with a massive stone fireplace and many windows. From the verandas of the clubhouse almost the whole of the club grounds can be seen — the polo field and race track, the golf course and the pleasing- approach of Palm Avenue, which leads in from the main gate of the ranch. The Pagoda of an Italian A'illa at Santa Barbai'a. A millionaire's sliow-place in the foothills of the mountains. The Potter Country Cluli grill is operated in conjunction with tlie Potter Hotel dining-room, which is famed for its excellent cuisine and service. Breakfasts, luncheons and teas are served either in the dainty grill room or on the verandas — "al fresco," looking out upon the mountains and the wooded hills. Tempting southern dishes and the highl}' seasoned Spanish cookery are made a specialty at the club. The polo field is of full regulation size, surrounded l^y an exercise and race track, five-eighths of a mile long. Ample stabling accommodations for ponies are provided on the field and at the Potter stables. On this field many hard fought contests for supremacy take place. Santa Barbara has its own excellent team, as has the Potter Country Club, Coro- nado, Los Angeles, I^asadena and ISurlingame. Members of the Potter Country Club need not go far afield for excellent fishing. Back in the fastnesses of the mountains are streams which will test the angler's skill. Here brook trout and steel-head are to be found during the season. These fishing grounds can be conveniently reached. TO CALIFORXIA AXD TllK PACIFIC COAST 223 On the Celebrated Cliff Drive at Hope Ranch Park, Santa Barbara. View of the Golf Course at Hope Ranch Park from Country Club Veranda. •224 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Hunting is good within a reasonable distance of the Potter Country Club. Quail, doves, rabbits and squirrels abound. In the season thousands of wild ducks and geese are to be seen on the marshes. If one cares to go a day's journey or so into the mountains, he will find deer, bear and mountain lions. The lover of sport will find ample opportunity here. Santa Barbara is essentially a city of homes. The warm, equable climate, superb scenery and situation attract the cultured and refined from all parts of the world. Its streets are lined with beautiful modern homes contrasting sharply with some of the old adobes which still remain. In scarcely any other part of this country can one find more beautiful homes and grounds than here. The Old Mission, founded by the Franciscan Fathers in 1782, was the center about which the town of Santa Barbara grew. It is the best preserved of all the California Missions. Hope Ranch Park, Santa Barbara One of the delightful features of the stop at Santa Barbara was the visit to Hope Ranch Park, a magnificent tract of wooded land about three miles from town. This belongs to the Pacific Improvement Company of San I'rancisco and here is being developed one of the finest residence parks in the world. Hope Ranch Park has long been one of the show places of Santa Barbara. Even before the present development was started, the Clift' Drive, a roadway which winds through its caiions and along the cliffs of its ocean frontage had been known as one of the most celebrated roadways of the Coast. Hope Ranch Park consists of two thousand acres of land. It has a long frontage on the sea with the blue Channel Islands in the distance, and extends back from the ocean a distance of nearly fwo miles. The Southern Pacific skirts its northern border and has a station "Hope Ranch" on the property. From Santa Barbara, Hope Ranch Park is reached by either the Modoc Road or Hollister Avenue. Both of these are excellent highways and afford a delightful motor trip through the shaded streets of the old town, lined with picturesque flower embowered homes along great avenues of trees, past well cultivated walnut and orange orchards until the massive stone gatewaN'S of the Park are reached. Here the scene changes, for once within the gates one feels as though in a different country. A fine macadam boulevard forty feet wide, leads through rows of stately palms from the north gate, due south to the ocean extending the whole length of the Park. About midway it enters a winding canon, through which entrance is gained to both the beach and also to the headlands which rise 2C0 feet above it. This road is the "Cliff' Drive," about which so much has been written and it holds front rank among the lieau- TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 22.= tiful drives of the world. In the development of this magnificent tract, the owners ntilized the Cliff Drive and radiated the new roads from it. ]\Iany miles of new macadam roads have been built, winding through the oak groves, threading the shallow canons and crossing the hilltops until everv spot in the Park has been made accessible and available for building. New homes are being built on the knolls and it will be but a short time until the Park becomes a thickly settled colony. Country Club in Hope Ranch Park Realizing that a nucleus is needed to attract home builders, the owners of Hope Ranch I'ark lia\c laid out an extensive and elaborate countrv club From the Veranda of the Country Club at Hope Ranch Park Womlerful Views are Obtained. on its grounds. A charming club-house has been erected on a low hill over- looking Laguna Blanca, a fresh water lake of some eighty acres extent on the property which adds a delightful feature to the landscape. At the club an excellent grill is maintained, assuring those who live in the Park of good service and cuisine at all times. Close by the club-house are the Golf Links. A nine hole course of unecjualed sportiness and variety. On the flat ground below the club and not far from Laguna Blanca is the polo field where the annual polo games are held each winter. Tennis courts ami other out door 226 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. games are provided for near the club, while in doors all the usual amusements are found. Hope Ranch Park is an ideal place for an all-the-year-round home. No more lovely climate than Santa Barbara can be found. It is even warm and delightful at all seasons of the year. In picturesque setting Hope Ranch Park is likewise without rival. To the north and east the purpling mountains of the Santa Ynez range form an ever-changing background. Well to the seaward is the broad Pacific and the Channel Islands. The topography of On the Golf Links of the Country Club at Hope Ranch Park. Hope Ranch Park is such that one can find any location desired on which to build a home. There are rolling hills that afford limitless landscape possi- bilities, with superb scenery of mountain, valley ami sea, on either hand. There are snug valleys that in\ite the builder to erect his home within their sheltered slopes and broad, flat mesas thickly co\'ered with great oaks like an English park. Hope Ranch Park is close enough to Santa Barbara to be a part of it and yet not in it. It is but a few minutes" ride over this hard, smooth road from the town to the Park and with the settlement of it there come the establishment of rapid railroad transportation from Hope Ranch station to Santa Barbara. Hope Ranch Park is a factor of considerable importance in Santa Barbara county and its increase will be watched with interest bv all who ha\e visited it. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 227 The New Arlington Mission Hotel From the "Hotel Monthly" we take the following in regard to the New Arlington Hotel, in course of construction : "The Arlington Hotel of Santa Barbara, one of the oldest and best known resort houses on the Pacific Coast, was recently destroyed by fire, and is about to be rebuilt on a much larger scale. The annex of the old hotel is now open and conducted by our old friend, Harry D. Clarke, formerly of the Evans, in Hot Springs, S. D. He has financed the new Arlington and work upon its construction is to be rushed, so that it will be ready for guests by January of next year. The accompanying illustration pictures the new hotel, which is a reproduction of seven of the old missions of the coast. It will be of concrete, fireproof, occupy a five-acre lot, and be 700 feet from end to end. It will contain 200 guest rooms and 55 rooms for help. A feature of the house is that every two rooms will have bath- General view from Architect Benton'.s drawing of tlie new Arlington Mission Hotel, non- being built for Harry D. Clark, at Santa Barbara, Cal. room between them, and in the bathroom will be tub only; but every guest room in the house will have both its own private toilet and lavatory. The bar and grill room will be located in the basement. A unique feature of the conveniences will be private fireproof sheds for automobiles; and there will be a special sunken driveway for automobiles entering the hotel. In the near future we will print floor plans of this hotel showing the novel layout. J. F. Lillie is chief clerk of the Arlington." San Luis Obispo Luncheon was served to the guests at Hotel Potter, after which the trains left for San Luis Obispo. Here a brief stop was made and an automobile and carriage ride enjoyed throughout the city, showing how rapidly it had made progress during the past few vears, and also giving an opportunity to see the new Hotel Andrews, 'recently erected by F. J. McHenry. Though it was Sunday 228 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. :\I. B. A. afternoon, tlie ladies were out in force and they pinned badges upon the guests which read: "Greetings — Woman's Civic Club and Chamber of Commerce — San Luis Obispo, California, April 17th, 1910." Eatables and drinkables were served and flowers galore bestowed upon all who were not already surfeited with them. Here the Southern California committee turned the guests over to the California Hotel Association with their "adios," in which they said: "We consign 30U to the tender mercies of the San Francisco Hotel Men's Asso- ciation, whose members are noted for their Goodfellowship, Energy, Enter- prise, Courage and JMagnificent Hotels. They justlj^ represent San Fran- cisco, the ]\Iagic City, the Metropolis of the Pacific Coast. Here the Southern California H. j\I. A. bids you a cordial and lingering farewell, and reminds you that this coupon is good for a return trip to Los Angeles, where you will always be welcome by the Southern California Hotel Men's Association." But, as Henry J. Bohn aptly put it in the "Hotel ^^'orld" : "And so here we find ourselves in the hands of new hosts, and yet so quietly and so modestly does this transfer take place that none of us are aware of it, and we doubt if even the statuesque and gallant Charles A. Cook, manager of the Fairmont at San Francisco, and head of the entertainment committee, realizes that there has been any transfer, for Brother Cook has been with us from the very start, and with ^Mitchell, Loomis. and George \\'harton James, who are with us. we do not feel that we are in strange hands." The San Francisco delegation comprised Kirk Harris, of the Grand and Hamlin ; Mr. Alexander and Mr. Wilson, of the St. Francis ; Mr. Cook of the Fairmont; ]\Irs. Morris, of the \'ictoria. and also H. T. Blethen, F. D. Pierce, F. P. Shanley, R. H. Gatley, C. J. Travis, A. Steinberg, C. A. Steward, all of San Francisco ; Dr. F. W. Sawyer, of Paso Robles, and JNIr. H. W. Lake, of San Jose. The other San Francisco committees were made up as follows : Ladies' Entertainment Committee — Mrs. W. F. Morris, chairman. Souvenir Committee — Gus C. Larm. chairman ; J. ^^'. Shanahan, R. S. Pressley. Entertainment Committee — C. A. Cooke, chairman ; J. E. Alexander, F. J. Fallon, J. J. Crawford, F. P. Shanley. Banquet Committee — E. S. De Wolfe, chairman ; Alvah B. Wilson, Obadiah Rich. Finance Committee — J. C. Kirkpatrick. chairman; Edward Rolkin, C. A. Stewart, Ike Harris. J. D. Wilson, P. A. Young. F. L. Turpin. CHAPTER XI PASO ROBLES AND ITS HOT SPRINGS HOTEL After a delightful ride over the Santa Lucia Mountains, with its glorious outlooks into deep wooded ravines, quiet little valleys, the fertile region of San Luis Obispo, and, when the range was crossed, of the Santa Margarita Valley, the trains reached Paso Robles just in time for dinner. This is the most famous hot springs resort of the Pacific Coast, and one of the most noted in America. Two years ago, it had the eyes of the world Hot .Springs Hutel, Pasu Robles, California. as the recuperating quarters of Fighting Admiral Bob Evans, who was here ridding himself of rheumatism while his command of battleships sailed prouilly up the coast on their return from around the world. The Admiral was attracted to Paso Robles by the reports of the excel- lency of its mud baths and its hot sulphur waters, so, after leading the biggest fleet of long cruising battleships the world ever saw through three zones, hot weather, cold weather, fair weather, stormy weather, was just about put out of action by an old foe. rheumatism, by the time he reached Alagdalena Bay. and it was the most natural thing in the world that he ^■hould leave the fleet and set sail bv boat and rail for Paso Robles. Here Copyright by, and used with kind permission of, Enrique Muller. ADMIRAI^ ROBLEY D. EVANS. 232 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. he was speedily made so well that he rode through the Golden Gate on his flagship to the cheers of the greatest crowd ever on San Francisco hills. Later, I will describe the hotel and the great bathhouse, but before going further I wish to say a few words about the mud baths. These are different from the major part of those found in .America. The patient is not put on A glimpse through the trees of Paso Robles Hot Springs Hotel. California. a cot, or in a small compartment, and the mud put on him by handfuls. but he goes to the actual hot spring where the mud is found by the thousand tons. Here, inside the mud bathhouse a wooden frame has been built around the spring. Steps lead down into it. and one steps down and allows himself to slide into the mud through which hot water at just the right 234 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. temperature (110° to 116° Fahr.) is percolating and bubbling with constant flow. Here, then, is a real mud bath. You can force yourself into its soft and yielding embrace as far as you like, pile it over your body as you choose, stay in one position as long as you like, or change to as many positions as you like, entirely difterent from the cot or compartment mud-bath system. The mud is kept in a state of perfect cleanliness and antiscpticism by the constant flow of hot sterilizing and purifying waters, and there is nothing in the world equal to it for the way in which it extracts noxious poisons from system. The Percussion and Altei'nate Douche, in tlie Ladies' Department, Paso Robles Hot .Springs Kurhaus. Some years ago I was bitten by a rattlesnake and for some days it was feared I might die. The poison swelled up my arm until it was as big as my thigh, and a big black spot covered the base of my breastbone as if I had been struck by a cannon ball. In the course of time I recovered enough to attend to mv regular duties, but occasionally, every two or three months, I would suffer untold agonies by a peculiar solidification of the stomach (which was one of the symptoms that developed immediately after I was poisoned). This condition was accompanied with none of the ordinary symptoms of stomach trouble, and was supposedly caused by the lodgment of some of the poison in the intra-costal lining. Now and again this poison 236 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. was rendered active and hence the intense suffering. The paroxysms con- tinued for eight or ten hours and were ahnost l^eyond the power of human endurance. After suffering in this way, every few months, for a year and a half, I resolved to take a full course of treatments at the Paso Robles A romantic Woodland Walk to Lake Ysahel. luud baths. In two weeks' time, with a mud bath one day and a hot sulphur bath the next, alternating, I was entirely cured, and now, though about five years have elapsed I have never since had a touch of the poison pains. At the same time I lost a life-long weak back, supposedly caused by "kidney trouble," which the baths absolutelv cured, so that for the first L,aUf Vsahel. nil Santa Vsahei Kanrlin. iit-ar i'aso i:;i.lilt-s. I'al 238 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. time in mv life I have been free from that curscil and everlastingly enervating feeling of a "pain in the small of my back." I give these personal experiences knowing that they will have weight with mv many friends, for I can not extol too highly the wonderful advantages of the Paso Roljles mud baths. .A. Path where metlitative fancies have full play. Paso Robles Hot Springs is on the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific, half way between the two principal cities of the California seaboard — Los Angeles and San Francisco. Its musical Spanish name means the Pass of the Oaks, and it was threaded of old by the trail of the padres, later by a wagon road, and now by the railway. Here four daily trains pass each way, and the rapidity of travel, its comfort — even luxury — is in striking contrast with the dusty trail of the sandaled priests. Yet the poetry of that early pastoral life still lingers. Here is the little Salinas River, here on the TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 239 west the Santa Lucia Mountains, and on the east the Coast Range. Santa Barbara and Los Angeles are to the south ; Monterey, Santa Cruz, San Jose and San Francisco to the north. The trim little country town has about 1,500 people, and lies in a narrow part of the Salinas Valley, uhere the rolling uplands crowd close down to the river. The elevation is 720 feet above the sea, twenty miles away as the crow flies. Karlsbad in Bohemia, Baden Baden in Germany, and Kissengen in the valley of the Saale have the same elevation. A diversified landscape of quiet beauty stretches away on every side. The Santa Lucia Range shuts out ocean fogs on the west ; the Coast Range on the east raises a barrier between us and the warm interior valley. Hills and dales, winding canons One of the beautiful Drives near Paso Robles. and wide uplands are studded with oaks, dignified, wide-branched, attractive — an oak-land park. The roads wind in a labyrinth of curves up and down the river, among the rounded hills, through narrow defiles, o\er upland pastures and among orchards and meadows, where Holsteins graze Ijeneath the trees. A delightful dri\e of a few minutes and the oak-forested estate of Santa Ysabel spreads before us, with its beautiful lake of mineral water, and hot springs pouring out 600,000 gallons daily. Yonder the little rivc-r Nacim- iento sings through a wilderness of its own, a line of light in the landscape, or hidden in the depth of its canons. Here is the San Miguel Mission, 240 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. substantia! after one hundred years, though built of mud — a climatic pointer; westward are the mountain walls, verdure clad, with natural gateways opening into charming nooks and little valleys ; the hillsides, in late October often a mist of green following the first rains ; in February, often a veritable field of the cloth of gold from the spreading cups of the Eschscholtzia — California's cup of gold, the poppy. Seen in brown summer or green winter, the region will interest you. Hot Springs should be located in the best climate. They are not always. They bubble and flow quite regardless of convenience. Nature did not plan them with reference to human need or comfort. Some of the most famous springs of the world have been helpful for generations in spite of climatic disadvantages. But at Paso Robles the climate matches the springs, as if both were ordained by Heaven for the relief of human ills. Perhaps they •were. The springs are of various kinds — soda, iron, or chalybeate, mud. or moor, sulphur, and lithia. Analysis shows the chemical elements which are found in the most famous springs of Europe and America, in about the same proportion. They are sulphurous and alkaline, and vary in temperature from 60° to 122° Fahrenheit. They have proved in\'aluable in rheumatic, blood, glandular and cutaneous affections, in kidney and bladder irritations, in catarrhal and other troubles of the mucous membranes, in anemia, malarial poisoning, and the nervous disorders requiring the tonic effect of water treatment, ^\'ater is more and more widely used in. the recovery of nervous breakdowns resulting from overwork or other causes, and outdoor life is considered of vast value. California's mineral and medicinal springs are the equal of any in the world, and they have the immense advantage of being set in the midst of si'.'h climatic conditions as constantly invite to the outer air. Here the quality of the waters and of the air makes an inviting place for rest, for recuperation, for constitutional treaiment, or for recreation. The Springs are not a mere adjunct to the hotel; the hotel was built because the Springs were here and were locally celebrated, and the great bath-house was added because the Springs and the equable and tonic air of the region have a reputation abroad, and to meet a demand for the very best facilities. The hotel is of red brick, three stories high, and with a frontage of about three hundred feet. The verandas are broad, as befits the Land of the Sun, the rooms are large, the dining-room cheerful, and great wood fireplaces are a feature. The hotel is faced by extensive grounds, well kept. A cozy clubhouse stands among the oaks, with wade verandas, and there are ten-pins and billiards, tennis courts and croquet grounds. The new bath-house is connected with the hotel by an inclosed arcade. It runs from the solarium, or sun-room, of the hotel to the office of the great Kurkaus. For this is more than a place in which to take baths. It is an establishment equipped for the widest and wisest application of water for refreshment and the cure of disease. The name for such a use of water The Drive from Paso Robles to Santa Ysabel reminds one of an English Park. Lake Ysabel al)ove the pre-liistoric Dam. 242 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. is hydrotherapy or hydriatric, and the institution at Paso Robles is arranged for the widest uses which experience has suggested and for the greatest convenience of use. It represents the latest knowledge and combines the latest appliances and discoveries of value. The best features of many estab- lishments in both the Atlantic States and in Europe have been installed. There are many larger places, especially on the Continent of Europe, struc- tures more showy, representing large expenditures and built to accommodate large numbers, but to get the benefit of the most valuable features of hydrotherapy a guest must visit several separate establishments. Here the g-reat features of water treatment in all forms, from hot to cold, steam to The forest Patli to the B;ith Houses at Lake Ysabel. ice, vapor to mud ])acks, under pressure or without, its mechanical as well as its thermic action, are brought into one building and combined under one management in the most attractive form. A great phinge bath 40x80 feet of graduated depth, supplied directly from the flowing well. The attendants are selected from Swedish or other colleges, experts in physical culture, massage, friction, bath-giving and nursing, and are under the direction of a resident physician who will prescribe and regulate the treatment. Simon Baruch, M. D., of New York, the most eminent authority in America on hydro-therapeutics, spent two months in the model Kurhaus at TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 243 its opening, directing nurses, masseurs and attendants, and supervising the working of all parts of the institution. Apparatus which he has invented or approved is used throughout the building. As an institution it is the most complete of its kind in any countr_y, yet it is believed that the treatment given here will cost less than anywhere else, while the climatic advantages can not be reckoned in dollars and cents. Here are three factors which make for comfort, for rest and recreation and health — the hot springs, the hotel, and the bath-house and its appliances. These are set in the midst of a pleasing landscape, in a climatic equilibrium quite unrivaled, and the invitation is to the roads and the fields, to excur- sions on foot and on horseback, to carriage ride and auto run, to the use of the camera and the gun. For among the oaks and on the hillsides are many doves, snipe, wild pigeon, and quail, and further afield a deer may be found, while about the hotel are the tennis courts and games in the open. It all works toward physical renewal — the baths, the exercise, the fresh air, the diversion of the mind, the forgetting of self, the mental and physical tonic alike reacting upon blood and nerve. Clubhouse Paso KmM An appetizing and most satisfactory dinner was served to the 11. M. M. B. A. by prompt and efficient waitresses. While some were dining, others were enjoying to the full a swim in the great warm plunge, some a bath of one kind, and some of another. Dr. F. W. Sawyer, the medical director and manager of the hotel was everywhere, carefully and tactfully looking after the comfort of the guests, all of whom expressed themselves as delighted with this experience at the great Hot Springs resort of America, whose tremendous flows of hot water in their several springs, magnificent bath-house, perfect and elaborate equipment, wonderful natural mud baths, they had not expected to find on the Pacific Coast. 244 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. :\I. :\I. B. A. Hotel Del Monte, the Paradise of the Pacific, in its wonderful i:aik of trees, flowers and lawns. CHAPTER XII MONDAY, APRIL 18, 1910— HOTEL DEL MONTE, PEBBLE BEACH LODGE AND THE SEVENTEEN-MILE DRIVE At ten o'clock on Sunday night the special trains left Paso Robles and next morning early "brought to" on the side tracks at Hotel Del Monte. When the guests woke up they found themselves already arrived and greeted with beautiful smiling "Del Monte" weather. \Vith their usual large-hearted hospitality, the Pacific Improvement Cum- pany. through their genial General Manager, A. D. Shepard, proffered break- fast and luncheon and the circuit of the seventeen-mile drive to the H. M. M. B. A. The breakfast was perfectly up to the high standard for which Del Monte is world-famous, and the luncheon \^•as more of a banquet, than the modest meal its name implies. A special menu was provided, on which. "Welcome H. M. M. 15. A." was stamped in gold on purple background. During breakfast the writer announced that Manager H. R. ^^'arner was ill in bed, suffering from an attack of appendicitis and that he was about to undergo an operation. \\'ith one voice the sympathetic guests responded to the suggestion to send him their heartiest sympathy and good wishes, at the same time their thanks for the hospitality he had so generously extended to them, and which his assistants. Chief Clerk Emett S. Husted and Steward S. C. Hart, hail so eff'ertively rendered available. Hotel Del Monte Hotel Del Monte is of Swiss architecture, with turreted and pinnacled skyline and broad, comfortable verandas. The word "Alonte" in Spanish means either mountain or forest, and the latter meaning determined its application to the hotel, owing to the thickly wooded park which surrounds it. The building is in shape of a gigantic letter E. The main structure and the two widely separated annexes are connected by curved fireproof arcades. The dining-room is in the plaza between them. It has a seating capacity of 750 guests. The hotel has over five hundred rooms, every one of which is an outside one, with outlook from its windows upon the gardens, the forest, the bay or the mountains. A day can easily be spent exploring the grounds of Del Monte. At every turn new beauties are unfolded. Here are flower gardens of many kinds — ■ grassy lawns — mighty trees. The Arizona cacti (or desert) garden is a unique collection of sixty-three varieties of desert growths. The Sylvan walk, by which approach to the golf links is made, winds beneath great Druid oaks, bearded with Spanish moss like the prophets of 246 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. H. R. Warner, Manager Hotel Del Monte, California. H. R. Warner is one of the best known and best beloved of California's hotel men. He has had a large e.\perience in the hotel world, and lias thus gained a ripe experience. Always progressive and advancing, he has demon- strated his ability in his present position as the managing head of the world famed Hotel Del Monte. TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 247 old. The grounds of Del jMonte have been under expert care of the landscape gardeners for a quarter of a century and are among the finest examples of the art to be seen in America. Here are lawns and flower beds, covering about 125 acres. Here, also, are assembled all the principal trees of the Pacific Coast, and many of them are labeled and classified so that the}' can be easily identified. The green- houses are a delight and the gardens are a continuous kaleidoscope of changing blossoms. : 1/ 1' B 1 P ^Bf^Bii L 3 View in Suite, Hotel Del Monte. Every room here is an outside room. The grounds of Del JMontc contain 1,366 different varieties of plant life. This list includes 78 varieties of coniferous trees, 210 varieties of evergreen trees and shrubs, 63 varieties of cacti in the Arizona garden, 285 varieties of herbaceous plants, and 90 varieties of roses. Down by the Laguna Del Rev are new tennis courts, and here are played each year the championship games of the coast. Close by, also, is the large rose garden, and here is the maze, a copy of the famous maze at Hampton Court. Near here is St. John's Chapel, an attractive little place of worship, which is well filled each Sabbath by hotel guests. At the end of the main hall off the lobby, attractive clubrooins for ladies and gentlemen will be found. Here one finds ample provision for amuse- ment — at billiards, bowling, etc. 248 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M, B. A. A comfortable grill, with service at all hours, is operated in connection. In the parlors and other rooms are card tallies, -where friendly games may be enjoyed. The Hotel Del Monte Art Gallery was opened April 20, 1"?07. It was established for the purpose of giving to the painters of California an exhibi- tion hall and salesroom devoted to California art exclusively. The gallery is under the management of a committee of California artists, headed by the dean of the profession, William Keith, who ranks highest of the California painters. This committee passes judgment on the works submitted and arranges for their hanging in the gallery. Information rcgard- View of the beautiful dining room of Hotel Del ?iIonte. ing the pictures and the exhibitions may be obtained from the curator in charge. Here, also, is the great Del Monte pipe organ on which splendid concerts are given each week, in conjunction with the regular orchestra. The Hotel Del Monte Golf Course Del Monte is pecuHarly fortunate in the situation of its golf course. Five minutes' walk from the hotel office finds one on the grounds. This proximitv enables one to dress for the game in their own rooms if desired. The golf course is full 18 holes. The distance around is 4,934 yards. The course is laid beneath the spreading live oaks, over rolling ground. The arrangement of the holes is such as to bring out the individuality of each TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 249 player's game. This golf course attracts not only the skilled player who appreciates the superlative excellence of its arrangement and condition, but the average player as well. The jnitting greens, all of \vhich are of grass, are big and wide enough to hold a pitched approach, and the bunkers guarding them are so constructed as to forbid the possibility of "steeple- chasing" which is easy and remunerative on hard ground with the resilient rubber-cored ball. The greens are not only large, but are kept in the best possible condition, water being conveyed by pipe to all of them and men being constantly employed in cutting and rolling. The teeing-grounds and the fair greens are grass sown, and on most of the holes a long straight drive will enable the player to reach the green in two. In nearly every case, however, the second shot must be straight, as Bii'd.se>f View from main tuwer of Hotel Del Monte, showing ea.st wing and Montere.v Bay. not only are the greens guarded by bunkers in front, but a sliced, pulled, or over-approached shot will land the player in trouble. Many of the greens are so placed that the trees on the course form good sporting hazards. The salt ocean breezes blend with the balsams from the pine forests which cover the encircling hills — producing a tonic atmosphere full of life and health. One can enjoy the game under the full sun of the hot midsummer day, without harmful effect — a condition almost impossible anywhere else. The days of the fall and winter are absolutely superb in brilliance of sunshine and clarity of air. 250 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The golf grounds are kept in perfect condition at all times. The course has been under the care of expert gardeners for more than ten years and is rated by experts as the best eighteen-hole course on the Pacific Coast and one of the best in the world. It is one of the very few links on which the putting greens, teeing greens, and fair greens are all of grass. The putting greens are the delight of every player, being set entirely in grass, which is kept constantly watered and rolled, with the result that they are springy and elusive. The tees are also grass sown, as are the fair greens. View of the Kaiich House at Riincho Del Monte. The whole field is studded with beautiful live oak trees which form natural hazards. It is bounded by ravines and cut by water channels and clumps of brush, which add zest to game. In addition to the rolling contour of the ground there have been added various artificial bunkers and hazards, giving a decided individuality to each hole. Diagrams of both the 18-hole and 9-hole courses are given on other pages. It is the ideal place for those who come to California for the winter because they can golf on this excellent course every day and find ample variety of other sports as well. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 251 Tennis and Other Outdoor Sports at Del Monte The Ionic cHmate of Del Monte invites one tcj Hve much out of doors in active enjoyment. Horses can be secured at the hotel for pleasant rides about the hills. There are six splendid tennis courts at Del Monte. These are made oi bitumen and kept in perfect condition. Two of them, shown in the engrav- ings, are known as the "professional" courts. They are close to the hotel and are laid out with strict regard for sun and wind, light and shade. Bounded on one side by the cool and sparkling waters of Laguna Del Rev and on the other side by terraced lawns with a shady background and .v»»- it- ■■ 'a At Rancho Del Monte there are small rottages. where guests can be made con^fortable. majestic pines and ivy-covered cypresses — they are the scene of the annual championship tournaments of the Pacific States Lawn Tennis Association, which are held each September. The best men and women players of the coast meet at these games and settle the championship questions. Oftentimes the honors are contested for by Eastern players who come out to match their skill against the residents of the coast. Miss May Sutton, the champion woman player of the world, has won many of her games against the best of both East and West here. Del Monte as a center of interest in the tennis world holds as high a place as it does in the golfing circles. The bowling green, where bowls are played on the grass in the old style, is a novel diversion. 2.52 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. Clock golf course provides a practice putting game, not so tiring as on the regular field. Croquet and quoits are also provicled, with man}- other facilities for sport. The Del Monte Bathhouse is a commodious and attractive building, not a great distance from the hotel. It is well lighted, well ventilated, and decorated with baskets of tropical flowers and growing plants hanging from the roof. The tank is lined with white tile and has a complete equipment of springboards, slides, etc. It is filled with warm salt water which is con- tinuously changed. From the bathhouse entrance is given to the pleasure pier and the long, smooth stretch of sandy beach. The surf comes rolling Scene at Ranclio Del Monte in the Carmel Valley. in here with just the right violence, and an entire absence of undertow makes the surf bathing particularly delightful. The wide expanse of beach invites to sun baths between dips in the waves. Competent instructors are In attendance and provide everv facility for the experienced as well as the inexperienced swimmer. The annual dog shows are held at Hotel Del Monte under the auspices of the Ladies' Kennel Association of California. These always bring out a large exhibition of high-bred canines irom all over the State. The judging is done in the open under the trees of Del Monte lawn, the dogs being staked out about the ring instead of being held in cages, as TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 253 is usual. These events are very popular and much social gaiety takes place at the time they are being held. Among the many outdoor attractions of Del Monte, none has a greater fascination than the deep-sea fishing. The Bay of Monterev is one of the most beautiful in the world. It is also one of the most prolific in all forms of marine life. It is said ])y no less competent an authority than David Starr Jordan, president of Stanford University, that more forms of marine animal life are to be found here than in an}' similar body of water in the world. A\'hile barracuda, sea bass, rock cod, yellow tail, sea trout, pompano, smelt, sand dabs, sole, flounder, and tuna are caught in varving On the New Sceni*- Boulevards, showing niassi\-e concrete bridgewurk. ([uantities according to the season, the chief delight of the sportsman is the gamey "King salmon." These are usually caught by trolling with a heav}- sinker. The Del Monte Rancho is eighteen miles from Del Monte, up the Carmel \'alley. Here are produced the butter, eggs, milk, cream and \egetables used at the hotel. .At the Rancho are a number of comfortable cottages, which are used bv the guests of the hotel while on hunting and fishing trips. The Carmel river, during the season, affords excellent trout fishing. In the valley of Carmel quail, doves, rabbits, ducks, snipe, ibis and curlew can be found. The mountain fastnesses thereabouts abound in deer and larger game. The ride to the Rancho makes a splendid motor trip. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 255 The World-Famed Seventeen-Mile Drive In addition to the pleasure of golf and tennis, Del Alonte affords a wonderful opportunity for the motorist. It is the beginning and end of a system of the most magnificent scenic boulevards in the world. The Monterey Peninsula is of an irregular shape. It is bounded on the north by the Baj^ of Monterey, on the west by the Pacific ocean, and on the south by Pescadero Bay. It contains some 7,000 acres of rolling wooded land. Its shore line is very diversified and broken, sandy beaches alternating with rugged rocky headlands. ■ i^» Thousand-year-old C'.vijres.s Trees on the 17-mile Drive. One of the most notable drives or tours known to man is that which takes one around this Monterey Peninsula. It extends over carefully-kept roads for seventeen miles — a constant delight and wonderment. By taking this drive a very excellent idea of Del Monte and the vicinity is gained. Not far from the hotel is the old Mission San Carlos de Borromeo, established June 3, 1770, by Father Junipera Serra. Here the authorities in charge will show the visitor some of the ancient vestments of the padres, including rich gold-embroidered silk and satin robes which were once worn bv the sainted Junipera Serra, founder of the California missions. To attend the service in this old mission church is a matter of especial interest, and the stranger mav also be attracted to the ancient cemetery close at hand, I- : I H '"JHH m. It mk ^^S ^ \ s 'S -V. I ^ ?; Jk ^' V « m 1 ! 1 B 1,^ ■ } i ^^hP^hi '^^^K 1 ,! 1; -^-1 ■'M i'> 1 1 r •.^: j^J v^^^H :V •1 ■ I- 1 i] <-s^ '- i: ^^M, 1 \: ^ ■1 ^;:^.:.» ^^H i^uflii IB^^H '■ ^"^ TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 2o7 where rest the remains of many of the early settlers who made historv here when this conntry was a province of early Spain. \\'ithin the mission yard may be seen all that remains of the famous Junipera Oak. under which the venerable Father Serra celebrated the first Mass when he landed in Alontere}' in 1770. It was cut down in I'-Oji and has been preserved here. Old Town of Monterey The old town of Monttrey is a constant delight and it should be seen bv all tourists. History has been making here ever since the early part of the fifteenth century. The place was named, it is well to remember, by \'i7.caino, in 1602, after the Count of Monterey, ninth viceroy of Mexico, whose portrait hangs in the lobby of the hotel. It was good Padre Serra who established an outpost of the faith here. Along with his party came the soldiers, and the equipment of the Presidio of Monterey followed. Here one may see the point where Father Serra landed. The other points of special mtcrcst include the old customs house, San Carlos Mission, the old home where Robert Louis Stevenson once lived, Colton Hall, where the first constitution of California was adopted; Washington Hotel, once used as headquarters by General Xe^■e and the Spanish troops, and a dozen other places of equal and absorbing interest. Here one may also see bits of old harpoon and other reminiscences of the whaling industry, told about and celebrated hx Richard Henrv Dana in his liook, "Two Years Before the Mast"; the first theater in California, where Jenny Lind sang in the early '60's ; the first Irmber house, the first brick house in California, and many other ])oints of great hist(iric value. Presidio of Monterey A visit to the Presidio of Alontere}- is well worth while. This is now one of the most important military posts in the United States, growing from an obscure reservation to a 10-com])any p.ost in consequence of the war with Spain and the acquisition of the I'hilippines. Here the soldiers come for rest and recuperation prior to a voyage across the Pacific and after their return from arduous campaigns in the Philippines. This Presidio was once conlrnlled bv the Spaniards, and later, in 1822, by the Mexican government. The monument erected in honor of Father Junipera Serra by Mrs. Leland Stanford, shown elsewhere in this Ijook, is located in a commanding position. Here also is the Sloat monument, which has been built by gifts of blocks of stone from each county in California, to commemorate the landing here of Commodore Sloat. July 7. 1846. The cross near the entrance which marks the landing place of Father Serra was erected by Mr. James Murray of Monterey. At guardmount or at the other military exercises of the day, the troops assemble and form an interesting spectacle. 258 THE ICIO TRIP OF THE H. M. M. P.. A. TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 259 Picturesque Pacific Grove Pacific Grove is situated on the Monterey Peninsula. It lies in the midst of a pine forest, facing the liay of Monterey — a great indentation in the coast — 70 miles in extent. The bay is famous as one of the most beautiful bodies of water on the Pacific. It afifords a safe and con\-enient anchorage for vessels of every size, at all times. Pebble Beac-h Lodge. A iiiiiriue place of resort in the Pine Forest on the IT-mile Drive. It is on the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific Railroad — 128 miles from San Francisco — 350 miles from Los .\ngeles. There is direct parlor car and express train service dail}' from both north and south. It takes less than four hours' time from the city to Pacific Grove. The roads from various parts of the State are excellent, and the average time by automobile troni San Francisco is about eight hours. From the great interior valleys of the San Joaquin and Sacramento, fast train service is maintained, and low summer rates are quoted by the railroad. The resident of these iiUerior localities can therefore reach the cool breezes and bracing air of Pacific Grove within a few hours, enjoying on their journey the ride through a country offering a constantly-changing picture of valley and mountain, forest and meadow, orchard and ranch life. To them Pacific (irove jjrovides a 200 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. complete change of air and scenery, and is therefore a most pleasant place for vacations. The charm of the mountains, the beauty of the pine forest unite with the pleasures of the sea, and one can indulge his fancy for recrea- tion of every sort without great trouble or expense. Possessing as it does the finest all-the-year-round climate in the State, free from the chill of the interior, nestling in the pines and facing one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Pacific Grove is an ideal place to live. Pacific Grove takes its name from the forest of virgin pines and oaks in which it is located, while about it on every side is the sea. This ocean environment accounts for the phenomenal climate — mild without variation. m Pacific Grove Hotel is a comfortable and liomelike liotel under tlie same management as Hotel Del Monte. and yet tonic with the salt of the sea and the balsam of the pines, which saves it from the languid element which commonly marks even climates. Not enough rain falls in the winter to interfere with out-door life. Frost is rarelv seen. \'erdure appears with the first rains. There is a carpet of green al! the winter, and wild flowers spring in profusion. Pacific Grove is the natural home of all varieties of cultivated flowers and plants, especially the more delicate varieties — nasturtiums, fuchsias, heliotrope and callas, which flourish and bloom best in the winter. The summer is very pleasant and the Grove is the place to come for cool refreshing sea air, and exemption from heat and dust. For those who live in the interior of CaHfornia, or TO CALIFDRXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 2fil Eastern people seeking sucli advantages, the winter is really the most pleasant portion of the year. The atmosphere is so clear, the air so l)alm}-. the scenery so charming, that to live out-of-doors is a luxury. Pacific Grove Hotel The Pacific Grove Hotel is the leading hostelry of this town and sits in its own private park of trees and flowers in the civic center of the place. The situation of the Hotel is ideal, being close to the bathing beach and wharf, for the glass bottom boats, the numerous attractions of Monterey. Pacific Grove and the \icinity. The street cars pass its doors, connect with Del Monte and the Peninsula. Pacific Grove Hotel has nearly two hundred rooms, is equipped with all modern conveniences and is a very popular family hotel. A thorough overhauling of the entire building has just been made ar.d at this time it stands first among the hotels of its class in California. It has an added advantage over all others, because it is under the same management as Hotel Del Alonte, and its guests are accorded all the privi- leges of the beautiful Del Monte golf links, bathhouse, tennis courts and grounds. A DeUghtful Place of Resort Pacific Grove presents all the attractions of the usual seaside resort to better advantage than any other. The Del Monte golf links green all-year- round are close by, and are open to guests of the Pacific Grove Hotel the same as to the guests of Hotel Del Monte. The bathing beach and pavilion invite to surf bathing, warm plunge or hot sea water tub-baths. Promenade band concerts are a feature during the summer season. The wonderful submarine gardens at Pacific Grove are among the finest in the world, ami arrangements for viewing them through the glass bottom boats are l)oth safe and convenient. Public Museum The public museum, free to all, offers special attractions to those inter- ested in the remarkable life of the bay and peninsula. It contains about 12,000 specimens, including one of the finest collections of mounted marine animals on the Pacific Coast, also local ami foreign birds and birds' eggs, marine and land plants, and a reference library of scientific works. Chautauqua Pacific Grove is often callt-d ■'Chautaui|ua-b3--the-Sea," because here is held each summer the Chautauqua Assembly of X'orthern California, and thousands of people enjov the lectures of distinguished scholars and scientists, while the summer schools of various useful and ornamental arts (such as school of cooking, school of music, school of painting, etc.) are conducted at the lowest rates by prominent instructors. The unique aquatic Lantern l-'estival, which takes plz.ce in July with its myriads of colored lights on the waters, and the pyrotechnic display, is a fasciratintr feature. 262 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. R. A. The marine biological laboratory of the Leland Stanford. Jr., University conducts regular courses of instruction in Zoology, ISotany and Physiology during the summer. The Farmers" Institute convenes in August. The California Annua! Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church meets in September; as well as the Itinerants' Club of the California Annual Conference. The students' winter school of the Young Men's Christian Association begins in December. A Comfortable Place to Dwell Pacific Grove offers all the attractions of forest, mountain and seaside resorts, together with the civic advantages of a long established munici- A'iew of Pai-ili. iking llie Ba.w pality. One may enjoy surf or tank liathing, yachting, fishing, mountain climbing, riding, motoring, golf or tennis, within a few minutes' walk of their own home. It has good stores, streets, gas and electric lights, a fine sanitary sewer system and an abundance of ])ure, clear, soft water, pro- nounced by experts to be the purest in the State, l-'rost and snow and the chill penetrating fogs of the interior valleys are unknown here. The climate is always exhilarating and l^racing rather than warm and enervating — a fine virile atmosphere that makes for life and health. This is evident from the following table. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 263 The avei"ag;e temiieraturc I'di- 1''07-8-'' is as fullows: January 54 3U 5S Fehniarv :^,-i JIJI .-i.-i .March 53 35 55 April 5ri 38 61 May 57 33 60 June 39 60 62 Pacific Grove, with its nia.<;iiificent offers an nnequaled opportunity for profitahlc investment. lulv 36 61 63 August 60 63 62 September 61 62 61 October 61 64 64 November 62 62 63 December 37 60 39 ation and mat chless surr lundings, table inve-- tm JUt. 1 lecause of its Pacific Grove has nian>- incturestiue and beautiful li mies nestling in the trees. superior commercial advantages, it is a steadily growing, thriving town. Pacific Grove has an unsurjjassed natural surrounding, and a community of socially inclined and cultured people. Here is held the annual meeting of the Chautauqua Assembly of Northern California, bringing hundreds of refined men and women from all over the State. Pacific Grove is a city of churches; nearly every deiKimination being re])resented with its substantial house of wor.ship. It has no saloons, and can have none, as prohibitory con- ditions are made perpetual in every deed to real estate. It has fine schools, primary, grammar and high grades. Every condition needful for a prosperous, progressive place is to be found here. It has both rail and water transjiorta- tion. It is the shipping point of the Associated Oil Co., which has established 264 THE lyiO TRIP OF THE H. AI. AI. l\. A. an immense depot here. The oil is delivered through a large pipe line from Coalinga, and delivers fuel oil at less cost than in San Francisco. Oil vessels arrive and depart daily for all ])arts of the world. The harbor is commodious and quiet, thus offering a safe anchorage for any vessel. Pacific Grove prop- erty is constantlv advancing in value — lots in the Third and Fourth Additions being all sold, and those in the Fifth and Sixth Additions being nearly all sold. The lots are large size, and all the improvements are now in. Prices are very 'ow, and the chance for profit absolutely certain. On the 17-Mile Drive Leaving picturesque Pacific Grove, one proceeds along the Seventeen- mile Drive. Just outside town this enters a dense pine forest; winding and lurning through this it reaches the shore at Moss Beach, whence it follows the ocean around the peninsula to Pebble Beach. The points of interest follow each other in (juick succession — Point Joe, Restless Sea, Bird Rocks, Seal Rocks, with their colony of seals ; Fan Shell Beach, the Ostrich Tree, Cypress Point, the Cypress groves, Midway Point. Along the tortuous course of the dri\e, encircling the edge of the peninsula, one passes many interesting sights. The quaint huts of the Chinese fishermen cling to rocks, bits of spars, masts and wreckage of ships that have met their doom on the rocky coast are scattered about. At "Restless Sea," the peculiar meeting place of the tides, the spectacle of seething surf and immense waves breaking far ofl: the land is inspiring. The Ostrich Tree, a great cypress so formed as to closely resemble a giant ostrich, stands out boldly against the skyline just beyond Fan Shell Beach. The drive winds on through ancient cypress groves whose origin is lost in the mist of history. Trees of this curious species, it is said, grow iinl\' in Japan, and the supposition is that ages ago the ocean currents washed the seeds ashore for growth and development at this far-away point. (Jthers claim that they are identical with the cedars of Lebanon, but are unable to explain how thev got here. The cypresses here are the delight of painters, who come from the ends of the world to put them upon canvases. Pebble Beach, on the 17-Mile Drive, Monterey County At Pebble Beach which is midwa_\' on the world famous 17-mile l)ri\c the Pacific Improvement Company have laid out an ideal residence park. At this point the sea has made a great indentation in the shore which is knuwn as Pescadero Bay. The dark forbidding point of land which juts nut into the sea on the extreme south is called Point Lobos, a "point of wolves." I kre in this sheltered valley facing the Southern sun, many acres have been laid off in charming homesites. The magnificent new scenic boulevards which cross the Peninsula radiate from this spot affording one ample choice of roadway to either Pacific Grove, Monterey or Del Monte. These roads are fortv feet wide, are hard and smooth as a billiard table and wind through the forests and up o\-er the hills at a grade not exceeding three per cent. .\11 in '|-0 CAr.Il'ORXlA AXI) 'l"ME PACIFIC COAST 26.1 One of the great Stone Fireplaces in tlie Assemhiy Hall of Pebble Beacli Lodge. Pebble Beach Lodge is ii popular place of rendezvous for automobilists and equestrians 26() THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. I!. A. all this is unquestionably the finest system of motor boulevards in America if not in the whole world. The roads are brought into Pebble Beach in such a manner that they form the streets of the new colony without changing their character. Pebble Beach is divided into acreage tracts and villa sites. Each homesite is so situated as to command a wonderful view of forest, mountain or sea, and in many cases a superb combination of them all. The 17-mile Drive which skirts the shore forms the main thoroughfare and the lots facing on it are of rare lieauty of situation. The whole of Pebble Beach Tract is covered with great pines and oaks. Each lot having a number of these splendid trees on it. The climate Great Hall of Pelilile Bfach Ludge. llunteiey CuluU^■. at Pebble Beach is one of continuous summer. It faces the Southern sun and is amply protected on north, east and west by the forest-covered hills which encircle it. These forests come down in many cases clear to the water's edge. Already there are a number of charming homes being built among the trees, but another year will see this place as thickly settled as can be desired. The owners, realizing the importance of the transportation problem, have installed a line of electric automobiles capable of carrying twenty passengers which run from Pacific Grove to Pebble Beach Lodge. This Lodge is the center of activity at Pebble Beach. TO CALII'ORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 2(17 I'ergiila and Porrli of Pelilile Beacli r^odso Note llie massive log pillars. * -• ^^ <^=^&. ^C^ ^IK w ^ -^"^^"^ tSSt^^t^'^^^^l^f^^^^^M ^W^ a^^^m^n T**" •' ; ,. m ^r^: ^:^ pi 3p"^'^ ^r. 1 flK^^^i- .J- '■' ' 1 zZii0^ ^^^^ l^twiB ' ^^ j ^ill ^ Siff "T ' ■ Looliing west along the Pergola of Pebble Beach Lodge. 268 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Pebble Beach Lodge a Unique Log Building It stands on a knoll oveFlto.okiiig the Bay and the sea. In front of it is a wide terrace and springly lawns and flower gardens, which extend down to the beach. The Lodge itself is a great log structure built of huge timbers cut from the surrounding forests. Its main assfembly hall is some thirty-five feet wide Ijv twice as long and has an immense stone fireplace at either end. These fire places are built of granite rock and contain 160 tons of material. They extend from the floor to the gable of the roof, and are so arranged as to have a fire place on both sides. Thus the great hall has a fire place at either end while the adjoining rooms also have fire places using the same chimney. The hall is furnished with massive oak furniture and is a favorite place of rendezvous for automobile parties. At one end adjoining this hall is the bufifet and grill, flanked by the kitchen in a wing by itself. The cuisine and service are under the same management as Hotel Del Monte antl make a specialty of fish, game and sea foods. The Lodge was designed as a nucleus for the resident colonv which is springing up here. Purchasers of property can build on their premises and feel safe from all servant problems and the attendant owners as the Lodge is open at all hours and provides meals for all. It has become a favorite place of resort for Del Alonte guests who find it a lovely place in which to spend all or part of the day in the open. The property at Pebble Beach is being sold at very low prices and e.xtrtmely reasonable terms. It requires no prophet to forsee an ultimate development of this section within the next few years which will outclass any other resi- dence part of California. Carmel Mission Carmel Mission, properly known as Mission San Carlos Borromeo. located on the Rio Carmelo, is seven miles away, but is reached, as all points around Del Monte, by most excellent roads. It is on the road to Point Lobos. This is one of the most characteristic of the California missions, since, from the time of its founding, it remained the head(:|uarters and home of Padre Junipera Serra. the head of the Franciscan Missions of Alta California. This mission was founded July 10, 1771. The padres and their Indian neophytes moved from the ^lission San Carlos at Monterey because of the desire of the priests to remove their charges from the foreign influences to which they were likely to be subjected in a seaport and military post. Here rest the remains of Padre Serra, who died in 1784. The care- taker close by will show the sightseer every attention. The sea is close at hand, and the fertile Carmel \'alley stretches away in full view from the historic old ])ile. Once the Indian disciples of the padres here numbered several hundred, and the mission was the centering point for all travelers. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 2fi9 Top: Under the Big Trees, at the foot of the '■Umnt" looking lieavenvvanl more than 300 feet. Lower: A Chicago-Kansas City-Los Angeles H. M. Jl. B. A. crowd being "tool<" at the Big Trees by Max Teich. Big Tree Grove After luncheon at Del ■\Ionte the trains were speedily whirled by \vay jf-Santa Cruz to the Big Trees. Henry J. liohn wrote of this trip: '■\\'e arrive there at 3:30, while the sun is 3-et high in the sky, gi\ino- our kodak friends a chance to get in their work in the sunny spots at the foot of the giant trees. The latest estimate or conclusion reached by forestry experts is that the largest of these trees are some six thousand years old. Did you ever sl(i|) to think that these are the oldest living things in the world? — nowhere else in the world is anything so ancient. Tourists come from all parts of the world to see them, and yet, strange to say, in our party are people, some who have lived in California for many years, others born ill the State, who have never looked upon these wonderful giants until this minute. Our stay is short, and we go across the little mountain and again strike our train, at a point farther along the route. It has been decided to cut out San Jose, which some of us regret just a bit, for we remember our visit in 18% and the great prune orchards through which we were driven at that time." 270 THE 1910 TRIP OI' THE II. M. M. B. A. TO CALIFORXIA AXl) THE l'ACH<"IC COAST 271 San Jose, Hotel Vendome and the Lick Observatory W'liile the trains did not stn|) at San Jose to give our guests the oppor- tunity to \-isit the Hotel \'endonie, all those who were present fourteen years ago recalled the hospitality of dear (;. P. Snell, then its manager, and longed to see the beautiful Santa Clara \'alley once again. Three or four, who had seen San Francisco recently, cut out some of the doings there and returned to San Jose. The_\- were delightfully entertained by Mr. H. ^^'ingate Lake, the manager of the new \'endome, who made himself as dear to the hearts of the new travelers as his predecessor had done to those of years ago. This beautiful hotel, entirely reconstructed in 1907, is set in its own park, where green lawns enli\-ened by brilliant flower beds, ever blooming, and traversed by enticing pathways, are shaded by lofty and umbrageous trees. The grounds and the fine building combine all the charm and seclusion of a country estate. In appointments and service the hotel is unexcelled, unsurpassed. It is in the heart of the city, but a few blocks from the principal railroad station whence trains depart every few minutes, while from its gates the famous resorts of the Santa Clara Valley can be reached in less than an hour's ride. These include the famous Congress Springs, with their mineral waters, mountain springs and charming forest in the canon of the Santa Cruz Mountains! Alum Rock Springs, with its wooded stream, its sixteen kinds of mineral waters and natural park in the mountains east of San Jose, of the delights of which the communitv is justly proud; Nippon Mura, the Japanese resort, and the general sweep of the valley with its 125 square miles of fruit trees, wonderful in the spring, when the blossoms seem to cover the trees like foam, and wonderful in the fall and summer when golden apricots, blushing jjeaches, scarlet cherries antl purple plums make of it an Aladdin's forest of enchantment — the largest and most ]iroductive stretch of orchard in the world. Twenty-six miles away is the famous Lick Observatory on the top of Mount Hamilton, reached by a mountain road of wonderful construction that in its hundreds of windings reveals a most romantic panorama of mountains, canons, valleys and, far away, the gleaming waters of the San h^rancisco Hay. This observatory was founiled by James Lick, the eccentric niillicinaire, who left a million and a cpiarter for its endowment, and then turned it over to the L^niversity of California. It is one of the best equipped in the world and contains several most ])owerful telescopes. Though an automobile conveys mail and passengers, the old-fashioned stage coach ride is by far the most enjovable. Mr. Fred Ross, manager of the Hotel Vendome Stables and the Mount Hamilton Stage Company, arranges these trips for visitors, and it is one of the most interesting and enjoyalile of all the mountain drives in California. I have made it several times and each time with increasing pleasure. 272 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. r ^^HH|^^^^^^^^K^^^j^gj^^^jjw^^^^^^|BflBj^Hg^K^^'' i^>^... 1^ ■■•■'i^'^ife^ ^""•" ~^^ _--■ . . Yosemite Falls, Yosemite Valley, California. TU CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 273 The Yosemite National Park Another trip that many nKnilxrs of the H. M. Al. I!. A. would have enjoyed making was a visit to the Yost mite \'alle_\- and the Big 'Srees. This trip is one of the most delightful in California. The rail and stage ride through the scenic Merced canyon — the grand and Ijeautiful ^'osemite Valley with its towering walls and stupendous waterfalls — the romantic stage trip across the mountains to delightful W'awona and the wonderful Big Trees groves; these are featurts that go to make up the grandest trip in the world. It is a picturesque trij) from Merced to the park line in luxuriously finished coaches and observation cars. Eighty miles of ever-changing mountain scenery, the beautiful Merced river within a stone's throw of the car window the entire distance. A splendid line of stages carry the traveler through the park, being a three-hour drive from the railroad terminus to the hotels and camps. This wagon road is now sprinkled daily during the dry months, which completely lays the dust and keeps the roadbed in smooth condition, and is a source of great satisfaction to the thousands of tourists who visit the valley each year. This is one of the features of the trip to Yosemite, for the road continues up the wild and rocky canon to the entrance of the valley, where the traveler gets his first grand view of Yosemite, and ere he reaches his stopping ])lace on the floor of the valley has passed many of the great points of interest, El Capitan, Bridal Veil Falls, the Three Graces, Three Brothers, Eagle Peak. Sentinel Rock, Yosemite Falls, and has received his first impressions of this masterpiece of Nature. Trails and carriage drives radiate from the Yosemite village to points of interest, which vary in distance from three-cpiarters of a mile to fifteen miles, and even farther. Many are nice walking distances and others are best taken by sadille horse or carriage, according to the inclination of the traveler. The Yosemite \'alley is accessible the year around, winter and summer, and visitors need not wait for a particular season to view its grandeurs. It is a delightful trip tluring the winter months: the floor of the valley is protected by its great walls, there is no deep snow and the winter climate is mild and invigorating. The winter months are November, December and Januarv. The autumn months, September and October, are charming and romantic, the spell of Indian summer holding sway, while the autumn hues of tree and mountain are most gorgeous. The spring and summer months are the times when the large numbers of visitors throng the valley, but people are going in and out all the seasons and are beginning to find that it is a trip worth while any time of the year. 274 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. ^-■a i li t ^ J^^^ftsl J^ ■. ^ . . <^"." " -.. . ■ ^ ifc^m-i*-^"-- ^-f --^..■^-TJ-.-Zfr?! .JK«f . \..-^'iH '->i»/S<'' ':J^- 1 Nevada Fall;^, Yoseniilo Vii'ley, California. CHAPTER XIII SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS MAJESTIC HOTELS San Francisco was reached on Monday evening, April 18th, in time for dinner, and owing to the perfect arrangements made by the committee, headed 1)V .Mr. Cooke the guests were taken by autos, tally-hos and buses to their hotels as fast as they could enter them. The Xew York delegation went to the St. Francis, to be cared for l)y their much-loved and former citizen, "limmie" ^^'oods, the Yankees to the palatial Fairmont on the sunnnit of the hill, and the Chicago Mid-\Vesters to the Palace. So, in effect, wrote Henrv J. liohn. He continued: "Of course, there are some scattering delegates who distribute themselves among the other hotels. And as we reach our rooms and gaze from the windows out over the beautiful city, and as we go to the dining-rooms and take our first dinner in San Francisco, we feel somewhat in a dream, for little can we realize that this is the city which but four years ago had a sort of an ague shake and then was smashed to smithereens by a tire. We see no traces here of disaster — all is gold and glitter and marble and color, architecture, artifice and art. After dinner we stroll about in the heart of the city, drop in at the St. Francis and other hotels, and altogether are 'just as ha]ipy as we can be' after this most delightful day." The Palace Hotel It was hard to realize that the old Palace was gone, but all acknowledged tliat the new Palace was a great advance upon the older and world-famed building. Since its first inception the Palace has Ijeen unicfue in the h()tel world and in its new home the same uniqiic features which made the old house famous in two hemispheres have been reproduced and many new ones exclusively its own have been intr( Mliiced. Palace One of the Largest Hotels in the World The Palace occupies an entire citv bhick in the heart of San b'rancisco's commercial and financial centers. Its Market Street frontage is 27? feet, while it extends over 350 feet along Xew Montgomery and Annie streets. This gives it an area of some ninety-five thousand square feet, or a little more than two and one-half acres. On the ground floor the wdiole of this enormous space is devoted to the ofifices, dining-rooms, ball and bantpiet rooms, the Great Court (itself without counterpart) and the numerous kitchens. The upper tioors, of which there are eight, occupy the same space, save that the various courts serve as light and air shafts, thus making every one of the 700 rooms an outside room. 276 'IM!K 1910 TRIP OF Till'. 11. .\1. M H. A TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 277 The Palace building is of cream Milwaukee lirick faced on the two lower floors and trimmed on all floors with white granite. The brick work sur- rounds a giant steel frame of the heaviest girders and btams used in anv construction on the Coast an.l designed, when the necessity arises, to carry four additional floors with perfect safety. Every element used in its coii- •^truction is as fireproof as human ingenuity can devi.;'e. put together with the idea of withstanding, without damage, any action of fire or the elements. The same general plans as laid down in the first house have been followed, except where a change would work a marked improvement. Great Central Court Still Is the Motif Generally speaking, the i)lan of the Palace consists of a great Central Court or lounge around which the rest of the house is built. I'his court is 130 ftet long by nearly 100 feet wide and from its marble floor to the arching d.ome is 100 feet in the clear. ( )u the north and south sides of the court are wide corridors, separating it from the men's grill room and the main restau- rant respectively. On the east another wide corridor extends full length from Market and Jesse Streets opening into the court on the west, .\long this are found the public conveniences: telejihones, telegraph offices, news- |)aper booth, parcel room, ladies' waiting roenn, etc. The court is flaniced by a double row of massive Italian marble columns. It is furnished with lieavy and comfortable chairs, divans and lounges, and the marble floor is covered with thick rtigs. The Inner Court — Palace Hotel There never was a fair\land imagined or pictured by writer e)r artist that e(|ualcd the reality that one may enjoy every evening after dinner in the Palace Hotel Court. With its arched over-glass roof, its su]3ports picked out in didl gold, and terminated on the wall entalilature with marble shields, its color is rich though subdued. Marble columns, curved mural faces, elazzling Venetian chandeliers, blazing with electric candles and globes, red silk sliaded reading lamps, jialms, chairs upholstered in red velvet, and dull gold, e)r leather and dull gold, solid oak and mahogany settees richly upholstered, writing tables, green and blue-bordered red velvet carpets, exquisitely shaded marble arches leading on each side into gentlemen's and ladies' dining-rooms, it is a veritable fairyland, and when the orchestra — one of the finest in the \A'est — discourses sweet music, oft'ering charming strains to suit every taste, from the purest classics of Wagner, Schubert, Chopin, Schumann, Mozart, Peethoven, and even Bach, to the simplest and most plaintixe airs, with harp, organ and other unusual accompaniments, there is no we)nder that guests from afar, and citizens of San Francisco ecpially llock to the attracti\e place and enjoy the rich feast that onlv such a hotel as the Palace could jiossibly provide for them. Many a professional concert '.our is made with far less effective and soul-stirring music than that daily presented liv the Palace orchestra. 278 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE U. AI. M. 11. A. ■•:^fej^if^ Pill' t--' Palace Hotel, entirely rebuilt since the fire, on the original Market Street site. A notable addition to the great buildings of the metropolis. 1 TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST The Men's Grill of Great Size 279 On the nortli of the court lies the men's ,<;Till and still farther nortji the har is situated, ]ia\ing its own entrance to Market Street. The liar is pan- eled in solid oak and lighted by a heavy leaded glass skylight. Itehind the bar is a magnificent $10,000 jjicture entitled, "The Pied Piper of Hamelin." Tlif :.len's Crill Mf the Pa Ildli-I wliere llie liii.^iness men of tlie rity (■i>iisi'es;itt> ilaily al the liiiit-li hour. Maxfield Parrish's Picture in Palace Hotel Buffet The picture is one oi Ma.xfield Parrish's masterpieces. It is the one touch of striking color in a room singidarly plain, though rich and elegant in appointment. Framed in simple didl gold, it is a most effective picture. To the right are the rugged, craggy mountain peaks, set ofif on the left by a gnarled rugged old monarch of a tree. lietween the two in the far distance is a glimpse of the valley, over which silvery clouds play. But the whole interest of the ])ictnre centers in the main figure and its followers— the Pied Piper and the happy band of children that precede ami follow him. The piper himself is apparently engrossed in his piping,— playing on an old-fashioned pipe, after the style of a modern oboe. He wears a peaked red hat, and clad in a dangling cloak that is pied or plaid enough to please a Highlandman, he is striding forward, earnestly intent on his work. Before him, alongside of him, behind him, cluster the boys and girls who are enchanted with his piping, and even though one had never read Browning's spirited poem would feel what he so graphically expresses: 280 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. U. B. A. Lnuking into the great Sun Court of the Palace Hutel from the office. Massive Spanish Leather Lounges invite you in tlie Palace Hotel Bar. (le TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 281 ( )nce mure he stept into the street, And to his lips again Laid his long pipe of smooth straight cane; And ere he blew three notes I such sweet Soft notes as yet musician's cunning Xever ga\e the enraptured air) There was a rustling' that seemed like a bustling ( )f merry cr(.)\vds justling at pitching anicture placed where 282 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. 1'.. A. Colonel John C. Kirkpatrick, Managing Uirector Palace Hotel Company. —Engraving by courte3y of Hotel Monthly. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 283 I could take every boy and girl friend I have so that they might see and enjoy it, as they assuredly would. The men's grill — of a name and fame to conjure with — is a great room, as long as the court and almost as wide. It is floored with large red tiles and its ceiling springs in a wide arch of a strictly Gothic type. The grill is finished in dull white with candelabra of hammered copper. At the west end is the electric and coal grill, insuring cpiick and perfect cuisine and service. The Main Restaurant a Study in Dull Gold and Gray This room is situatctl on the south side of the court and is of great size, with a seating capacity of 400 guests. The room is classic in its simplicity, The Main Restaurant of the Palace Hotel. A study in grey and gold. the only attempt at ornamentation being the beaten gold capitals of the half pillars in the walls and on the cornices. Its quiet rcstfulness soothes and pleases, being strictly in keeping with the faultless service and cuisine. On the south of the main restaurant is the banquet room, another svm- phuny in gray and gold, with polished hardwood floor and small paneled glass doors. This is the favorite room for banquets and affairs of a size insufficient for use of the great Louis X\'. ballroom, which is close by. Another long corridor extends parallel with Jessie Street from the east corridor to the ballroom. The banquet room is on one side of this and on the Jessie Street side are the numerous checking and toilet rooms for men 284 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. OBADIAH RICH. To have served over thirty years success- fully with one hotel company, and to have risen to occupy tlie distinguislied and respon- sible position of assistant to the director of two of the noted and famous liotels of the world, is the proud record of Obadiali Rich. He was born at Truro. Mass., December S, 1853. In February, 1879, he entered the employ of Messrs. Ridgeway & Johnson, then the pro- prietors of the Grand Hotel, San Francisco. In 1880. when Senator Sharon took over the Grand Hotel, Mr. Rich entered his employ and has been with the Palace Hotel Compan>' ever since. In 18It4 he was appointed assistant manager of the Palace, under Col. J. C. Kirk- patrick. which position of honor and respon- sibilit.v he has ever since tilled. In 1897 he was made the l5u>'er for both hotels, which office he held until about a >'ear ago. still i-etaining, under the directorship of Colonel Kirkpatrick, the supervision of the Grand Hotel, until it was destroyed bv the fire of liioe. TU CA LI FORM A AXU THE I'ACIFIC CUAST 28.^ and women, reception parlors and a nnnilx-r of small rooms for private dinners and like attairs. The ballroom occupies the entire south\vest corner of the huildinj;-. it is a superb room, finished after Louis X\'. |)eriod, in dull tones of gold, making an effective background for any gown. This room is about 50x100 feet in size and is finished with a hardwood ]iarqnetry floor, which is es])ecially ilelightful for dancing. The ballroom has its own private carriage and auto- niobile entrance on Jessie Street, as has the Ijanquet room at the end uf the cast corridor, lly this means t«d functions mav he held, at the same time, one in the ballroom and the other in the banquet room, without interference with each otlier in anv \\:iv. \'iew of the great -Sun Oourt of tlie Pa'ace Hotel. One of tlie nio:. F. Downs and O. L. Chaffin, room clerks: F. C. Martin and S. \\'. ISarr, cashiers: \'ictor Reiter, niaitre fl'hotel : Ernest .\rbogast, chef; James Christian, steward: J. F. Dougherty, purchas- ing agent: ]\Irs. L. Pjailey, housekeeper; W. 1". Flint, superintending engineer; ^^■. ]. Trimble, assistant engineer; Edgar Cribble, chief electrician: Herman Riedel. wine steward; Gus Lindregren, storekeeper. Hotel Granada San I-Tancisco is still a city of hotels. It has always been noted for its great hostelries, and not even its historic hotels surpass in grandeur, magnifi- cence and comfort the new Granada Hotel. Looming majesticall}' the C C 3 d c « J fe tn a5< S J. »: p c i: 5 ^ ... i <; C 0^ "^ a: ? ' S 0-1 •r M" " c ?i i ; Ill) '"'ii OJ tj ^ ci ^ . rt •- ^ - ' 2 * rx5 = O 3 J (U r ^ .so I -M '^ £ o '^nS +.. '^ -c OJ - ^ • S^-^^i tfi _ : c- & tj >-. o > r '= — ■a 2 =" o ESS o 22; ^ ce - Sea m TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 295 The Fairmont Hotel The Fairmont Hotel is the most superbly situated hotel in the world. As one enters the city of San Francisco whether it l)e by transpacific steamer, by ferry from Oakland and the Southern Pacific mole, or by rail from the south by way of the Third and Townsend street station, the first sight that greets the eye is the gleaming white marble walls of the Iviirmont Hotel crowning Nob Hill, a great marble palace that is without counterpart on earth. I-"rom every viewpoint the Fairmont dominates the San Francisco skyline. It is the last thing that the traveler enroute to the Orient sees as he looks back at the city. It is the last thing that the traveler east-bound on the luxurious Overland Limited sees as he leaves the upper rear deck of street front cif Fairmont Hot.L the lerry as he prepares to take the train at ( )aklantl mole. As the "Lark" swings down the Peninsula on its nightl}- flight to Los Angeles and the South the gleaming lights of the Fairmont flash a farewell to the erstwhile guest from between the low hills of the cit}-. In point of situation the I'"airmont is tinii|ue and une(|ualled in all the world. It has been compared to the Peak Hotel at Hong Kong and to the Chateau Frontenac at Quebec, but even these two magnificently situated hotel must give the palm to the IviirnKnit. No other hotel on earth com- mands such alluringly Ijeautiful \-ie\vs as does the I'airniont. On the north h"es the far-famed Golden Gate, which has been written about in nearly every languasfe. The windows of the hotel commantl a fine \-iew of this beautiful 296 THE 1010 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. entrance to the great San Francisco harbor, with its forts on either side and its fortified islands in the stream. To the northeast can be seen the purple mountains of Marin county with the picturesque town of Sausalito nestling at the water's brink and Mount Tamalpais thrusting its rugged skyline into Corner of Laurel Court, Fairmont Hotel, where after-dinner coffee is served. the background. Midway across the bay lie the islands Alcatraz (the mili- tary prison of the United States) towered and pinnacled like one of the old islands of the Rhine, then Yerba Buena or Goat Island where the United States Naval Training School is established, and between them is Angel Island, the headquarters of the Immigration Service and the Quarantine TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE TACIFIC COAST 297 Station. To the east lie the busy cities of Oaklaiul and Berkeley and Alameda, by day a mass of houses, by night a glistening circlet of diamonds. Beyond these are the rolling hills with the dark summit of Mount Diablo rising sinister into the clouds. In the near foreground is the shifting water- front with its busy scenes, where ships from every clime and every port gather to take or leave their cargoes. River boats slip in and out leaving a great trail of foam from their stern wheels. Huge ferries cross back and forth like great spiders weaving a net of white and silver. In "Man-o'-war row" can be seen the great fighting ships of the world, while the transports which carry the troops back and forth from the Philippines remain in waiting at their own slips. "Wind-jammers" from the south seas, lumber schooners Japanese Room in the Fairmont Hotel, one of the finest in the world. from the Sound, tramp steamers from the four parts of the world, great ocean liners, pass in through the Golden Gate an unending procession before the windows of the Fairmont. To the east and to the southeast lies the city, spread out before the hotel, a place where great things have been, and are being done. The Fairmont crowns Nob Hill, in the heart of the city of San Francisco, yet up and above the noise, dust, and confusion of the busier downtown streets. It covers an entire city block, being bounded by four streets. Mason, Sacramento, Powell and California. On all of these except Mason (on which the Fairmont fronts), are street car lines that place it within five 298 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. AI. ^I. I!. A. minutes of any part of the business districts. Before the fire of 1906 Xob Hill was the home of the millionaires and bonanza kings of the Pacific Coast. Here they built their mansions and laid out their beautiful grounds. Not far from where the Fairmont now stands was the home of James Fair, foremost among the powerful men in those days of gold and power. The I'airmont was first designed and built by the daughter of James Fair on this historic site and it is from the family name that the present name is taken. Nob Hill is now the site of the most exclusive clubs in the city and the beautiful l-"airmont makes up for the loss of many of the fine old residences which formerly were the glory of the place. The magnificent Pacific Union Club is just across Mason street, while the beautiful L'uiversity Club is opposite on F^owell street. Hotel men at the Fairmont Hotel about to start on automobile trip about San Francisco. The Fairmont is built of steel and concrete, granite and marble. In form, design and architectural beauty it is so different from any other hotel that one comes to regard it as a great palace rather than a hotel built for com- mercial purposes. At every point one is impressed with the spaciousness and loftiness of it, and instinctively feels that the builders were inspired to do something greater and better than had ever been done in this line before, which should be in keeping with the superb setting which its owners had chosen. In its spacious lobby of gold and Italian marble half a thousand guests can rest in comfort without feeling crowded in the slightest. Its great ballrooms, banquet rooms, cafes, grills, reception rooms and other TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST •299 places for social functions are niagiiificent in appointment and perfect in their arrangement. Some idea of the immensity of these apartments can be gained from the following descriptions. It is because of these wonderful facilities and the general atmosphere of dignity, elegance and refinement that the I-'airniont is recognized as the social center of the citv. Main Floor of the Fairmont a Marvel When one enters the massi\e granite portal of the Fairmont he steps immediately into the grand lobby. This is perhaps the largest and loftiest room of its kind in America. Its high ceiling is of beaten gold supported hv immense columns of Italian marljle. The office is on the fore side to The :Marlile Lubby ot the Faiiimmt excels all utheis in height and spaciousness. the right while at the extreme left is the grand staircase leading to the mezzanine and upper floor. There are two sets of elevators, one at each end of the great room. The Lobby is carpeted with great thick rugs of rich red hue and furnished with many easy chairs, settees, sofas and loung- ing seats. To the right of the entrance are the ladies" reception and retiring rooms with maids constantly in attendance while to the left is the library and reading room with its great fireplace and fine rich furnishings. Wonderful Laurel Court of the Fairmont Directly across the lobby from the main entrance is the beautiful Laurel Court. This is one of the most unicjuely beautiful lounging places and tea 300 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. AI. :\r. B. A. rooms in the world. Tlirough tlie thickly leaded glass of the arching domes that cover this magnificent room, the light filters softly down on rich foliage and shrubbery on gleaming silver and spotless napery. The Laurel Court is a favorite rendezvous for San Francisco's socially select. A stringed orchestra gives a special concert each afternoon during the tea hours of from four to six. Here also the pleasing custom of serving after dinner coffee and cigars is observed and each evening the court is filled with smartly gowned women and men in evening clothes. The court is also a favored place for private dinner parties. On such occasions, it is fre- quently screened off with palms and flowers making a very secluded banquet room. View of tlie beautiful Laurel Cnurt Tea Room of the Fairmont Hotel. Main Dining Salon Overlooking the Bay and Mountains Just beyond the Laurel Court is the magnificent main dining salon of the Fairmont extending almost the full width of the building. From its high Irench windows a wonderful panorama of San Francisco Bay, the water front and the new city is obtained. This dining room is of great size and is capable of seating over five hundred persons at one time. To the right of the main dining room is the gre}- breakfast room a great room frequently used for banquet rooms as well as for breakfast uses. It is furnished and finished in soft shades of grey. Both the dining room and the gre\- room have extremely high ceilings and not a single post or pillar mars the symmetry of its proportions. The dining room is decorated in cream color with ornamentation of nugget gold presenting simple, dignified, yet extremelv rich effect. TO CALIFORxNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 301 CHAKLES ALDKX ('l n iKl-; Manager Fairmont Hotel, San Francisco When Charles Alden Cooke, the genial and popular manager of the Fairmont Hotel, first left the paternal roof in Boston, Massachu- setts, in 1878, he entered into his work with the same vim and energy that has charac- terized his subsequent career. His first job was that of brakeman on the old Eastern Railroad, but by the time he was nineteen he was promoted to the position of conductor, being the youngest train conductor in the State of Massachusetts, if not in this country. Four vears later he was on the Northern 302 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. Pacific Railroad, running out of St. Paul, Minnesota. In six montlas he was ag^ain promoted to the car accountant's office in St. Paul. In ISSd he left St. Paul to become assistant to the superintendent of the Wagner Sleeping Car Coinpany in Boston. After a year's uork in this position he resigned to accept service with Raymond & Whitcomb's. He was sent West as assistant to the agent In Southern California. In this position, where he was thrown in contact with hundreds of strangers each month, Cooke found his real work. He capitalized his tact, diplomacy, good nature and good fellowship and made a friend of everyone with whom he came in contact. Rapidly he became conductor of their South- ern California parties and then general Pacific Coast agent. In June, 1909. he resigned from the Raymond . A., as guests of the X'orthwestern Pacific Railroad and the .Mill X'allev & Mt. Tanialpais Scenic Railway, were taken over the "crookeilest mountain railway in the world." Let Mr. Henry J- Bohn tell the story: "At 1 :\?> we gather at the Market Street Ferry and the ferryboat takes us to Sausalito and thence by train to ]\Iill Valle}-, and now we are in the cars that take the tourists back and forth over the "crookedest railroad Muir Inn at Muir \A'on(is en .Mt. 'Pamalitais Railway. in the world," up Mt. Tanialpais. And here at last we ha\"e struck a Jonah, and a Jonah that spouts water and fog. What would have been one of the very gems of the whole entertainment is spoiled by the unkind action of Jupittr Phuius, but it is hard to dampen our enthusiasm, and as the two trains follow each other at some distance around curve after curve, rise after rise, across spindling bridges and alongside beetling crags and sheer precipices, the crowd sings and yells and waves, and the echoes of "Has Anybody Here Seen Kelly," "Rings on Her Fingers and Bells on Her Toes,' and other such classic music reverberates along the mountain side. We reach the summit, and swamp for coffee and sandwiches the Tanialpais 308 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Tavern. Of course, Dr. James is with us, and as we start up the mountain he keeps promising us that it will be bright and clear on the summit, and now that we are at the top and can't see more than fifty feet, we threaten to throw the promisorial doctor off the top of the mountain! But you can't spoil a day for the H. M. M. B. A. — the organization rises above all conditions and environment and is bound to have a good time wherever you land it." The Double Bow-knot on the Mt. Tamalpais Railway, crookedest railroad on earth." ••The The facts of the case were that, just before we started for the summit, Mr. C. F. Runyon, the president of the Mt. Tamalpais railway, who was with the party, had received a telephone communication from the hotel above saying that it had cleared off and the sun was shining brightly. He desired me to make this announcement. As I have hundreds of times seen Observatory on the summit of Mt. Tamalpais. The Tavern of Tamalpais near the top of the mountain. Profile Rock near the Tavern, from which a magnificent view is obtained. 310 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. l\. A. the sun shine brightly above the clouds through which I have just ascended, I made the announcement and stuck to it that it wouhl he bright the higher we got. Unfortunately the clouds descended before we ascended, so I was called upon to make good. I tried my best by assuring the Avind-blown and fog-bedraggled ladies and the male "sissies" — no one else found any Gravity Car, on the Mt. TanialpaLs Railway, coming down tlie moun- tain side througli beautiful woodland scenery. fault or needed to be comtorted — that there was always sunshine in the heart of a healthy member of the H. M. M. I!. A. Now to give our guests an idea of what they actually missed, here is a true picture of the ride and the scene presented from the summit: On the summit there is a contrivance called a Locator, which, of its kind, is the best thing we have seen for locating points of interest from a high altitude. A pillar supports a circular dial lying perfectly flat. Around 312 'iHE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. the rim of this dial is stamped in the names of about fiftv or sixty points of interest within the Hne of vision. In the center of the dial is a pin supporting a heavy iron tube about one inch in diameter and twelve inches long. This tube swings around. One end of it is slightly heavier than the other, and the heavier end of it rests upon pins of varying height set into the disc opposite the names of the locator points. Thus, if you wish to see Mount Hamilton, sixty-si.x miles away, you rest the heavy end of the iron tube on the pin opposite the name Mount Hamilton. You look through the tube and it locates the spot e.xactly. In this waj^ the Sierra Xevadas, 145 miles distant ; the State Capitol dome at Sacramento, 7i miles distant ; San Francisco, 14 miles distant; the Clifi' House site and seal rocks. 11 miles distant; Golden Gate, the islands, Berkeley, San Rafael, the Muir Redwoods, and all other points marked on the disc are easily and quickly located. The Smoker at Hotel St. Francis Here is \\hat the San Francisco "Chronicle" said of this smoker: "Backward for fifty years stepped the old man with the scythe at the St. Francis last night, and in the ballroom there appeared a prototype of 'Roaring Camp,' so vividly real that the 300 'tenderfeet' who manage that many hotels in the United States w-ere completely bewildered. Every char- acter of the mining camp was there save only that which brought 'luck' to the roaring settlement. "Behind the bar, where 'straight drinks only' were served, stood a black- mustached individual with two pistols in his belt. The bar occupied one corner of the room. In another corner the 'tiger.' snarling and hungry mawed, braved miner and tenderfoot alike, its keeper calling out the familiar calls of mining camps, "Five, red, odd, first eighteen, first twelve, center column wins.' Real money was played at this reawakening of Salome Jane, and gold was more in evidence than silver. "In another part of the great hall cowboys, with sombreros, chaps and lassos, rode bucking bronchos, using lash and spur and also calling with equal vehemence upon the blasphemous deities of the old-time hero of the camps. It was only the equine portion of the reproduction that was unreal last night, for in this make-believe array the bucking broncho was only a hobby horse grown tall. The effect was the same, however. The 'Heathen Chinee' "In still another portion of the wide St. Francis hall were groups of miners, long-queued and frightened Orientals, and all the other characters that made the old-time California famed not only for its gold, but for its romantic settings. In addition to the reproduction of the mining camp there was. in the center of the hall, a stage upon which vaudeville enter- tainment continued, mingling the old with the new in startling contrast. Above the songs and stories of the actors arose the calls of the dealers at the various games. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 313 "Into the St. Francis ballroom was crowded all the flavor of the mining camp of long ago. From the soubrette of the dance hall to the cowboy in camp, every character introduced to the world in Bret Harte's romances was present. Even the 'sky pilot' was there, for at intervals a lanky, long- haired individual passed from group to group around the gambling games, exhorting them to turn from the vain pursuit of chance. "Two roulette wheels, two faro banks and a crap table provided all the play wanted by those who believed their luck was with them. All the games were well patronized, and at the 'crap' table especialh' the 'seven- eleven' devotees gathered in great numbers. Those who were unable to get near enough to play were forced to solace themselves with the automatic roulettes in another portion of the room. "Another feature of this night of novelty was a prize fight that was really a fight. Two 'scrappers' were engaged at a fixed sum with the understanding that there would be no fixed sum unless there was something doing every minute. As a result there was a lively fight that many a promoter would have wished to have staged. "The novelty was conceived and arranged by the combined efforts of Manager Woods of the St. Francis, Assistant Managers Childs, Sword and Alexander and Thomas Keating, superintendent of service at the big hotel. It was attended by practically every visiting hotelman in the city and by many others who were fortunate enough to gain admittance. The afifair was pronounced to have been one of the most novel and successfvd witnessed by the visitors." Henry J. Bohn of the "Hotel World" thus tells the story: 'A\'ay down at Los Angeles we saw Brother James Woods for only a little bit one day, but during that time he was passing out a suspicious looking long green ticket that read in part, 'H. M. M. B. A. Championship Smoker.' It was a box ticket and the price of it was $100 in big red figures. The one I got specified Section P, East Side, Box 23, and in the body of the ticket appear the words, 'Hotel St. Francis Arena.' It all looked a little mysterious to me, and the twinkle in Woods' eye as he handed me the ticket meant something. And so to-night our itinerary reads, 'A smoker for the gentlemen at the St. Francis.' We have also been furnished with a ticket of admission which reads: 'This entitles the holder to one Prayer Book, souvenir of H. M. M. B. A. If presented at the smoker to be held at the Hotel St. Francis, Tuesday evening, April 19th, 1910, San I'rancisco, Cali- fornia ; retain this ticket : not transferable.' And as we enter the Prayer Book is handed to us. It is the most beautiful pack of cards ever conceived and is bound into a leather binding in the form of a book. That is the Prayer Book. At the same time we are handed a copy of 'The Evening Prayer', 'the only illustrated newspaper in any mining camp in the world.' It claims to print 'All the news that is fit to print,' but some of our boys declare it prints all the things that are unfit to print! "Well, here we are! In the greatest mining camp on earth — back in '49! To describe our surroundings is simply impossible. The great and 314 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. James Woods, -Mauagei Si. Fraiuis Hotel, San Fram isco, L'alit'oi iiia. beautiful ballroom of the St. Francis has been converted into a mining camp with a prize-fighting ring in the center, with all the accoutrements and appliances thereto belonging. Xever, no, never, since the days of '49 has man seen anything like this. The vaudeville program that is put on the stage in the middle of the room would fill the biggest auditorium in the world at $20 for standing room only. It is useless to try to describe or tell anvthing about the details of this show liecause our eastern friends -would TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 315 ' panels, is tlie scene of tlie regular Sunday s>'mphon>- concerts. Union Square, in front of the hotel, is the theater of all important car- nivals and public celebrations like the New Year's festival just closed. Here Don Caspar and the Queen were welcomed during the Portola. Here the Queen was crowned at the base of the Dewey Monument during the Admis- sion Day festival. Here practically every public ceremony or fete is held. Within two blocks of Union Square are located the fashionable theaters, most of the clubs, and the smart shopping district. Chinatown is a walk of only six blocks away on Grant avenue. This open space in the heart of the city offers exceptional opportunity for day and night display during public festivals. During the Portola cele- bration the Japanese colony decorated the park with huge floating fishes and 318 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. bizarre oriental devices, and sent up day fireworks, releasing grotesque images in the sky that floated all over the city. At night the usual brilliant pyrotechnical display was given, the hotel in the background being outlined in incandescents. On such occasion the carnival parades circle the park, and on events like the visit of the Chinese I'rince at the St. Francis the mili- tary escorts follow the same line of march. In no other metropolis is there a like example of the city's acti\-ities being centered in one place. Two Irishmen were riding on a Geary street car in San Francisco some years ago. "Working hard, Pat?" said one. "Work, is it? Sure I've a snap. I'm tearing down a Presbyterian church — an' gettin' paid for it." This Presbyterian church occupied part of a block that faced L'nion Square about 1901. At that time the park had been beautified by the munic- ipal commissioners to a point at which the public began to realize its importance as a decorative feature of the city. In the very heart of the down-town district it diflfused an old world atmosphere that could hardly be found elsewhere in busy America. The principal clubs established lu.xu- rious quarters overlooking the tropical expanse surrounding the monument which commemorates Dewey's victory at Manila Bay ; and the leading merchants sought quarters around this S(|uare, to which a native love of whatever is beautiful or picturescjue attracted San F"ranciscans and travelers. At this time, also, a general awakening of wealthy Americans to the attractions of their own country and the fascinations of the Orient had diverted to California a large number of travelers who had formerly sought recreation in Europe : and of these tourists, San Francisco, the city which represents to America what Paris does to the continent, received the most generous share. The local hotel accommodations then existing were quite inadequate to cope with the demands of an unprecedented influx of luxury-loving visitors and the situation became one that appealed not alone to business enterprise but to civic pride. At this juncture a number of the important interests of the cit\' formed the corporation known as the San h'rancisco Hotel Company, for the pur]30se of establishing a caravansary worthy of standing at the threshold of the Occident as the representative of California hospitality. The board of directors of this organization is practically the same to-day as when the company was organized, and is composed of the following gentlemen : Mr. H. T. Scott, president ; ^^'illiam Thomas, S. L. Goldstein, '\\'m. L. Gerstle, F. W. Dohrmann, A. B. C. Dohrmann, C. E. Green, C. T. Crocker and J. J. MahiMiy. In determining" tipon a site many things were considered. It was desir- able, of course, that the local color of the city should be emphasized in the surroundings of the building; while at the same time, the greatest convenience TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 319 and accessibility of location were necessary. For these requirements the selection of Union Square was inevitable. The designing and planning of the building is the result of an exhaustive study of the great caravansaries in every important metropolis in the world. The members of this firm resolved to create in the St. Francis a new ideal for modern hotels, ^\'ith this object in view e\ery prominent hostelry in Europe was visited ; and chateaux, art galleries and palaces were studied. The result was the erection of a state)}- wing-formed structure flanking one side of Union Square. .Sooiet>' Alerr.N'inakers in the A\'!uie and Quid Rouin of the St. Fi'anois after the famous Mardi Gras. Every room in this building was an outside room, and as the structure faced the east, all apartments were sunswept during the day. Each detail of the \-ast work was executed with a fine appreciation of values, and the crea- tion of an unusually beautiful and harmonious interior was in no case retarded by limitations of expense. Two wings of the hotel were completed and the institution opened its doors to the public March 21, 1904. After a few days, during which the citizens were entertained by the management and allowed to inspect the building, the St. I'rancis settled down to lousiness and began a career of success that has earned the hostelry a reputation for "luck" among hotel- men everywhere. The fashionable balls were given in the regal White and Gold Room, and in this same spacious hall series of concerts by the greatest musical artists of the world were enjoyed by patrons of the Muses. The Sequoia Club met regularly on the mezzanine floor, using the Red Room for refreshments and the Green Room for exhibitions of paintings 1:)\- the promi- nent Western artists. Thus the St. l-'rancis became almost immediateh- the 320 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. center of the social, literary and artistic life of the city. It was pervaded by the atmosphere that has given personality to the city of San Francisco. It was not "luck" that blest the enterprise of the San Francisco Hotel Compan\% but a judicious recognition of existing local conditions and future needs. From one of the upper windows on tlie Powell street side one could see diagonally across the square the quarters of the Union League Club and the impressive building of the Pacific Union Club. A few doors from the corner were the Bohemian and the Family clubs. The Columbia, Orpheum and Fischer's theaters and all the fashionable shops were within a radius of about four blocks. All car lines passed or transferred to the doors of the hostelry. No more convenient site could have been chosen. From the same window one could see below stretching before the very doors of the hostelry an expanse of tropical park that lent the warm color feeling of California to all its surroundings. In the distance, past the serrated skyline, one's gaze swept the wonderful panorama of the Bay — battleships at anchor; Neapolitan feluccas sailing to the fishing, fleets of pleasure craft flashing dots of white in and out amid the archipelago, picturesquely rugged islands forming a beautiful composition in every vista, wooded foothills, rolling back to lofty mountains. No more beautiful location could be found. Not only did parties of distinguished travelers (like Prince Fushimi and his suite during his notable tour) make the St. Francis their headquarters, but the policy of reasonable rates that has always been maintained gained instant and wide favor among the general traveling public. The hotel was sharing most bountifully in the general prosperity of San Francisco when ! It is futile to attempt a description of the situation in San P'rancisco immediately after the cataclysmic disaster of April 18, 1906. Briefly one might say that the city was, for the time being, effaced — the accomplishments of the past, the plans for the future. There was one thing left, however, the grit of the fighting frontiersman, the blood of the pathfinding pioneer. The ashes were still smouldering in the ruins around Union Square when the San Francisco Hotel Company asked permission to erect immediately in the park a temporary hostelry that would oflfer every convenience of advanced hotel science and thus demonstrate to the traveling public that San Francisco was equal to any situation, and would emerge triumphantly from adversity. The company agreed to turn over to the city all profits that might be made during its occupancy of the temporary structure (to continue until a reason- able time had been allowed for the refitting of the main building), to present the temporary hotel building to the city upon moving into the permanent quarters, and to restore Union Square Park to the condition it was in prior to the disaster. This timely exhibition of public spirit acted as a "call to quarters." One big firm after another came to the front and announced its intention to rebuild on downtown sites in a form worthy of the future that destiny has planned for the "Gateway to the Orient." TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 321 It is needless to say that the generous offer of the San Francisco Hotel Company was [)romptly accepted and work on a temporary hotel of simple classic design was immediately started. Almost simultaneously men were set to work on the main three-wing structure and property owners all aroand the square and throughout the ci\ic center ga\"e rush orders on the massive class of buildings that have since arisen. As a little incident of human interest, it ma_\- be mentioned that a small dog belonging to one of the employees of the hotel was forgotten in the general exodus from the building when the flames drew near, and remained in the wine-ctllar for four daN's without food or water. The animal, a fo.\- Tl-je Ladies' Kecepti m R:>om, finished in Circas:^ian walnut and ricli fabrics. terrier, was rescued after this harrowing experience, and was presented to the manager, James Woods, who immediately adopted it as the mascot of the hotel, and christened it "Francis." Luck surely smiled upon the enterprise of the San Francisco Hotel Com- pany. Far and wide through the publicity of the press and the numberless connections of the railroad companies, travelers became ac(|uainted with the fact that it was possible to visit San Francisco and view the titanic ruins while enjoj'ing every comfort of modern hotel life at the "Little" St. Francis. The old staff was there under the direction of .Mr. Woods, the Grill Roim 322 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. was o])cn in the main liuilding with Mctor, the chief, Lieb, the maitre de hotel, and all the familiar faces; and the little hotel in the park provided the highest class of accommodations for 200 guests. The day the temporary St. Francis opened its doors 106 guests were on the register, and practically thereafter the demand for rooms was so great that i1 was necessary to place cots in the lobby and parlor. Urder such conditions it was imperative to hasten the completion of the main structure, and every effort was exerted to expedite the colossal work- that had to be done in refitting the Iniilding. The St. Francis identifie.s itself witli every movement for tlie promoticn of Nati\'e Art. On November 30, 1907, with two wings fully completed and 450 rooms ready for occupancy, the restored Hotel St. Francis opened its doors to the public. Nothing could better symbolize the triumph of San Francisco over adversity than the Hotel St. Francis as it appeared on the opening night, nineteen months after the fire. It was a building fitly described as the "farthest advance of science in hotel service." and the guests who assembled, representing practically every prominent family in California, appreciated the significance of this fact. The brilliant gathering which filled every table in the house was typically Californian, not only in the representation of old families, but in the color and social atmosphere it diffused. Beautiful, charmingly-gowned women ; a TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 'iri tropical profusion of flowers; a witty, spirited company; an ideal setting — everything contributed to make the evening historic in the social annals of San P'rancisco. This was the formal announcement to the world of San Francisco's successful rehabilitation. The first impression received by one entering the building is that of the unusually effective rendering of big distances. Standing in the lobby one catches vistas of the Cafe, the White and Gold Room, and, looking through the Ladies' Reception Room, the Tapestry Room. The Lobby is an admir- able example of color and composition. Massive cut glass electroliers hang from a ceiling of dull gold, supported by deep green marble columns. The walls are likewise paneled in the dark marble which throws into relief rh.e masses of dark red frirnied 1.)\' the ijrcat ruijs and the furniture. The Colonial Ballroom is devoted not only to the smartest functions of the "inner circle." but to the concert of the .St. Francis Musical Art .Society, at which such artists as Gadski. Schumann-Heinck, Nordica, Bonci, Kreissler, Sembrich, Scotti. Pas^iuale, and Jomelli are presented. In the cafe, avenues of pillars of deep brown and gold support a ceiling of unusual beauty, which received its inspiration in the Chateau Rrissac in France. From the ceiling depend huge gilded baskets carrying a wealth of greens, perfecting the remarkable tone sympathy of this interior. The White and Gold Room suggests, in its regal simplicity, the ballroom of an imperial palace on the continent. The Tapestry Room, individualized by sculptured marble pillars and tapestry panels, is one of the most inter- esting halls in the world. 32 4 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Between the Tapestry Room and the Lobby is the Ladies' Reception Room, where guests of the gentler sex find a restful place to chat with their friends or to wait while rooms are being assigned. This room is remarkable for the fine hand-carving of the Old English furniture and the subtle grada- tions of color formed by rare fabrics and Circassian walnut panels. It is improbable that better tone values were ever attained in interior decorations. In the Writing and Reading Rooms — an expression of the Renaissance — and in the Gentlemen's Clubroom the fine color sympathy that pervades the hotel is evident. The floor of the clubroom is of red Moravian tiles; comfortable settees, upholstered with Itathcr, are built in the walls around White anil go'.d Supper Room where society gatliers after the play. The fashionable thea- ters are grouped within a radius of two blocks from the St. Francis. the room; the walls are wainscoted with gray mahogany; and the ceiling is supported by great beams of the same beautiful wood. A large Italian man- telpiece, high enough to stand under, completes the decoration of this luxu- rious retreat. To any one who visited the St. Francis before the fire, one of the pleas- antest experiences is to find so many of the popular old features retained. There are few sights more \\'elcome to the gourmet than the Rathskeller in the basement with its snug aspect of an old hunting lodge. Some changes have been made, however. An electric grill that cooks a steak or chop in five minutes has been installed ; then there are perambulators that bring the roast to one's table, where it is served piping hot. In this room a new method of trcatintr fine woodwork has been introduced. The late Stanford White had TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 325 A Nocturne St. Francis Grill Room. 326 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. :\I. B. A. planned to use this scheme, which consists of subjecting the wood to a pow- erful sand blast that eliminates all the soft fiber and leaves a rugged indurated surface that is very beautiful. Many new features have been introduced on the upper floors. Perhaps the most important is the ballroom, which is en suite with a series of reception rooms on the mezzanine. A sequence of delicate tints and gold furniture characterize the decoration. The dancing floor, 56 by 76 feet, is made of black walnut, with ball bearings, laid upon elastic second-growth ash. Around the dancing floor is a promenade along which guests may walk without cross- ing the dancing floor, and above this promenade are boxes and lodges. On the third floor there is a series of beautiful private banquet rooms of varying dimensions, so that one may choose a room suited to the number of guests to be entertained. On the twelfth floor are the Bachelors' Rooms, with gymnasium, shower baths and fresh and salt water baths. Esthetically, the salient feature of the north addition is the Clubroom and Buft'et, undoubtedly the most Ijeautifnl interior ever created for a com- fortable lounging place. It is difficult to describe the luxury of cozy corners built in walls paneled with rare woods and snug, big leather-seated chairs in which one enjoys the warmth thrown from burning logs in the huge carven Italian fireplace. Still harder it is to suggest the color values of the inlaid ceiling, presenting a unique color scheme of the grays of warm colors or the decorative effect of the back bar modeled by one of America's foremost sculptors. In the arrangement for service one sees the results that have been gained by the dominant ambition of the management. By the pneumatic-tube service orders may be sent instantly from any floor or dining-room, and vis- itors' cards sent up. The service pantries on every other floor (furnished with ovens and refrigerators) insure prompt and satisfactory service to every room. The hotel maintains under its roof its own electric and cold storage plant, its tailor-shop with valet service, its own laundry, etc. All water is filtered, and the air filtered, heated and washed, and a new supply provided to the entire hotel every ten minutes without causing a draught. In- a perfect system of pumps and exhaust pipes. Briefly, there is no finer interpretation of the art of public hospitality in the United States to-day, than is presented by the completed three-winged St. Francis, which, with over 800 guest rooms, has the largest capacity of anv hotel on the Pacific Coast. TO CALIFORX^IA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 327 1 1 • ? 1 * , 1 1 •< r» t » • 1 « 1 * • • 1 t ■ > » 1 « 1 • c • If 1 t • 4 * » » . 1 t J n K t < ' •* i • t 1 •• ....!. .^.iltflN&i^' Scene at the St. Francis during the civic celebrations of the city. Cafe of the Hotel St. Francis, inspirerl !>y the famous r&om in the Chateau de Brissac. 328 THE H;10 trip of the H. M. M. 1',. A. The Cciver o( the Complimentary Banquet tendered to the H. M. M. B. A. at tlie Palace Hotel, San Francisco, April 20, 1910. CHAPTER XV WEDNESDAY, APRIL 20th SAN FRANCISCO DAY AND THE GRAND BANQUET AT THE PALACE HOTEL Between a hundreil and two hundred automobiles, bearing flying streamers, Hned up on Union Square in front of Hotel St. Francis, and in a short time the whole of the guests were comfortably seated and the pro- cession gaily whirling along down Market street through the choicest resi- dence section to the Presidio, and through famous Golden Gate Park to the Cliff House, where a halt was made for a view of the Seal Rocks, and a visit to the Sutro Baths; then over the Ocean boulevard to Golden Gate; returning by another route through the great Park and the residence district to the Fairmont Hotel. In this ride the visitors learned to a|)preciate the attractions of San Francisco, and why its sons and daughters are loyal to it, and why the entrance to its magnificent harbor is called the Golden Gate. The Fairmont Luncheon It had been arranged by the San Francisco entertainment committee to give a luncheon at the Cliff House ; but owing to the size of the party it was decided to change the program. The}' quicklv decided that the liaronial Norman hall of the Fairmont Hotel, opening on the great terrace, was the only dining room in San Francisco large enough to accommodate the party. So, at a day's notice, Alanager Cooke prepared for this luncheon (a banc|uet it was), of 500 covers. The tables were eight-seat ; the floral decoration profuse, and the service faultless. It was a magnificent entertainment, entirely unex- pected by the visitors, since it did not even appear on the programs, and at its close the enthusiasm gave vent in round after round of applause. Several impromptu speeches were made, the one of the Rev. ^^^ A. Keefe, of Norwich, Conn., being especially eloquent and appropriate. The reverend gentlemen's speech was as much enjoyed by the minds of the guests as Manager Cooke's ba.iquct was by the palates. And no praise can be higher than that. The beautiful hotel was inspected, then a few hours spent in seeing Chinatown and other sights, before preparing for the other great events of the day, the Mandarin banquet in the Palace Hotel for the men, and the theater party and supper at the St. Francis for the ladies. 330 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Mandarin Banquet at Palace Hotel The ticket of admission for the Mandarin banquet at the Palace Hotel was a red card in a red envelope with a red band for a fastener, all with Chinese inscriptions. This was the keynote to the whole affair. The idea that the Chinese motif be followed at the banquet was suggested \)y Mr. E. de Wolfe, of Hotel Granada, the chairman of the banquet committee. L!ut in the working out of the details Mr. de Wolfe and his assistants showed nothing less than genius. The result was simply epoch forming. It revealed the western spirit, determined to free itself from unnecessary conventional restric- tions, and the daring that seizes upon old ideas, renders them available in new dress or conditions and modifies them to suit immediate needs. \\'e all confess that Japan and China are essentially artistic in some features — even above our- selves. But how to modify the art of China to meet the needs of the most exact- ing body of banquet connoisseurs in .\merica was artistic achievement that might have daunted the spirit of anyone but a genius or a westerner. Both these elements combined in one man made daunting impossible. Mr. de \\'olfe called upon Carl Rosa, a scene-painter, decorator and artist of considerable merit, whose connections with the Chinese enabled him not only to secure real accessories, but to follow in spirit the true Chinese idea. He secured furniture, table decorations — everything in fact — that was necessary, painted the scenerv, fifty-six distinct pieces, hung the walls with priceless Chinese tapestries and embroideries, swathed the ceiling in netting, completely hid the massive glass chandeliers and disguised them with appropriate ornamen- tation, suspended Chinese lanterns everywhere, provided at one end of the room a faithful presentation of a portion of Chinatown, with houses, balconied and decorated in pure Chinese fashion, arranged a proper Chinese stage for the singing, Chinese acting and other events, made an entrance to the banquet room over a Chinese bridge, over llowing water and altogether carried out the motif artistically throughout. Perhaps there is that in the de Wolfe blood that enables one to do these things for Mr. de Wolfe's sister. Miss Elsie de Wolfe is as well known in Xew York as in San Francisco for her marvelous genius in the decorative field. The result was as much of a surprise to the San Francisco and other California guests familiar with Chinatown in all its most artistic phases, as it was to our eastern guests. I have described the general effect. The special artistic design was a mandarin's garden, and all the details were worked out perfectly. The table decorations were in form of Chinese cymbals, trumpets, flutes and other instruments of music. Chinese flags, bouquets of peacock feathers and of Chinese lilies, dwarf trees trimmed to resemble birds and animals, and pagodas and temnles done in sugar. The menu card was in form of a book of twenty-eight pages, tied with a golden cord, and printed in Chinese, English and French. It presented many clever sketches of San Francisco, old and new: of the '49ers ; of Chinese life; and throughout was interspersed with words of welcome. Some of o I* H 332 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. these pages and the menu are rcprothicecl elsewhere, the latter both in the Chinese characters and in French. The fish course was announced with a procession of illuminated tish, each fish about ten feet long and carried by a Chinaman. The sherbert was served in a cup of ice with maidenhair ferns frozen into the ice, and the cup set on a gold mat covered with sprays of the ferns. The ice cream was in form of a Chinaman sitting in a sugar basket and holding up an undirella. Here is what Henry J. Bohn said of this banquet : "Really and truly, I would like to escape the task of trying to tell anything about this Oriental banquet, the greatest gastronomic feast that has ever been placed before H. ]\I. M. B. A. people. We have probably had as good things lo eat and drink at other bant|uets during the past thirty years, but never before have we had any such a thing upon which to feast our eyes and ears. For some days we have been in possession of a big red envelope enclosing a Chinese program. \\'e haven't been able to guess what it meant or what it was good for any more than we surmised what was coming wdien we looked at that smoker coupon ticket, but to-night we have to present it as we cross a Chinese bridge into the dining room. As we step into this room we behold a scene which the imagination can not picture, and first a thousand big and little illum- inated lanterns are suspended from the ceiling. At one end of the room there is a Chinese theater, and in the bo.xes are seated mandarins and real Chinese ladies of fashion. In and out and over and across the stage run scores of prettily dressed Chinese children, and a Chinese orchestra is performing music that we do not believe we will ever hear either in heaven or the other place, but it is all a part of the program. As we sit down Chinese girls pass along back of us and distribute flowers to us, and literally and truly it is China in front of us, China back of us, China to right of us and China to left of us. We doubt indeed if in Pekin or any other place in the Celestial empire there ever was a banquet tendered that had more of the glitter and color ami art and picturesqueness of Orientalism than we behold as we feast this night on the best that the chef and the maitre d'hotel of the great Palace Hotel can produce. If it was going across the continent to be a participant in the smoker last night, it is worth crossing two continents to see what we see to-night. You know what kind of a fix the boy is in when he is trying to watch a three-ring circus. This dining room was worse than a six-ring circus, for there is not only some- thing novel to us in every square foot of the ceiling and walls, but perform- ances and all over our tables, where is a wealth of every conceivable sort of Chinese art ware, while our ears are listening to beautiful songs and music." At the front of the stage was a Chinese band. Solemn and dignified with their big straw hats and grim faces, the bandsmen made a fitting foil for a score of the cutest little Chinese girls that ever roamed away from Chinatown. It was the little Chinese maidens that called straight to the hearts of the visitors. They were admired during the first courses, they were loved when the entrees appeared and then they grouped on the stage and sang "My Countrv 'Tis of Thee." TO CALIFORXIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 333 As the orchestra above the stage played the first bars of the anthem, every man in the hall leaped to his feet and stood silently. Then the sweet yonng voices, terribly nervous at first, I)ut gaining courage as they went on, wanflered out into the big room in the words of the one song that appeals to the very foundation of American manhood. Absolute silence was preserved until the singing was finished, and then |janflemonium rushed from confinement. Everybod}- cheered and waved anv- thing they could lay hands on, napkins, flowers and even chairs. But that was merely a prelude to the silver shower. Men stood on chairs so as to get a good view of the stage, and threw money as fast as thev could take it from their pockets and get change. It \\as a great sight. Laughing little Chinese girls, shrieking with the joy of it all. tumbled over each other in their eagerness to pick up the coins that were showering around them. They giggled and fought and then giggled again and finally ran in all directions to their smiling mothers, wlm were watching it all, to shower their silver gatherings in the motherly laps. Then one of the Easterners took a laughing little Chinese girl in his arms and carried her around the room. She was a princess, a fairy, a recipient of homage and a bestower of smiling favors. That started it, and all thoughts of the next course were forgotten in the general rush to claim a dainty Httle Chinese partner. When the sedate mothers of all the charming little people rose and said that it was time to go home there was a loud sigh. Stolid men frcjm the East who have done nothing Init worry aliout what other people's children were going to do in their hotels for the last twenty-five years objected. They wanted to adopt the kiddies, they would not let them go, and the final l)arting \vas almost heartbreaking. igjEgie tg^ii^jwia!.^ #^m #m^ -mi^is ^smm m^mvorough, of the Palace Hotel advertising departn.ient. C)n the title page was a plate Oyi^Oy^ inches in size, printed in yellow, red, blue and green, of which plate a reduced engraving appears on our title page. The first page within the cover was an engraving of a Chinese dragon and the sun, with a Chinese inscription. The next page bears in carmine the symbol of the sun without anv lettering, only a large circular red spot. Next follo\\-ing was the page of dedication, reading: '"Banquet in honor of the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Association tendered by the San Francisco Hotel Glen's Association, Palace Hotel, \\'ednesday evening, the 2Cth of April, 1910," appearing on a bulletin board held in ])lace by the dragon, and on either side of this appeared the same words in carmine Chinese symbols. Xe.xt follows a page covered with Chinese lettering: then a half-tone engraving of San Francisco, the portrait taken from the middle of the bay. Then follows in regular order a half dozen leaves, two placer mining scenes with a poem by Bret Harte entitled the "Mountain Heartsease": a Chinese shi])ping scene; a half-tone plate of San Francisco in the sixties with a few descriptive words, closing with: "Bells of the Past, whose long forgotten music still fills the wide expanse, tingeing the somber twilight of the Present with color of TO CALIFORXIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 341 roses"; a Chinese scene; a lialf-tone plate of a photograph from the Flood IJuilding looking down Market street; the menu entirely in Chinese char- acters and the menu in English, as published in the "Hotel \\^orld" last week ; a welcome to the visitors, appearing in Chinese characters ; a plate showing Union Square, the heart of San Francisco, and the George Dewey naval monument; another Chinese scene; "The New San F'rancisco," in a half-tone plate with a poem by ISret Harte, which opens with the words: "Serene, indifferent of Fate, Thou sittest at the Western Gate." and closing with: "Thou drawest all things, great and small, to Thee, beside the \\'estern (Jate": another Chinese scene and then the page with the first one of the plates here reproduced ; an engraving of the symbolic and much revered peacock feathers, together with burning incense sticks, forming a suggestive and sentimental picture; half-tone plate of "The Chinese Lily Seller" ; engraving in color of Chinese art articles as they appeared on the tables; another plate as here reproduced, showing H. M. M. B. A. ladies shopping in the Chinese district. THURSDAY, APRIL 21 / The party were guests of the California Wine Association for a steam- ship excursion around San Francisco Bay, and a tour of inspection of VVinehaven, where are located their principal cellars. They were given a luncheon at the company's hotel. In the tour of the establishment we were shown the wine presses and the fermenting \-ats. Superintend- ent S. ISerndt explained the process of making the wine, and what is done W4th the by-products, as, converting the sediment in the fermenting tanks into cream of tartar for baking powder ; getting tannin from the seeds, brandy from the skins, etc. Then he led us through the million-dollar storage houses where ten million gallons of wine are aging. The wine is first stored in casks of 30,000 gallon capacity for refining, and is kept four years in the wood. The method of blending or marrying was explained. "The wine is kept one year in the bottle before it is ripe, and is at its best after eight years, and does not improve after that time," said Mr. Berndt. He showed us the method of keeping track of the products of the diilerent vineyards and how the different kinds of grape wines are treated. He also showed us the bottle-filling, capping, labeling and carbonating machinery in operation ; and he explained the treatment of the non-alcoholic wine specialized by the California Wine Association; how it is sterilized, and its virtues when taken for the grape cure. He also showed the methods of converting still wines into imitation champagnes, and demonstrated the careful handling of the choice ^•intage wines. "The California \Mne Association," said Walter A. Dinmore of the Calva Distributing Co., "has $10,000,000 invested in the industry, with an annual production from fifty winery plants, throughout the grape growing districts^ of 30,000,000 gallons of wine." o X CHAPTER XVI HOMEWARD BOUND The New York and Xew England specials retained their identity until the retnrn trip was completed, the one returning to Xew York, the other to Boston. The Mid-\\'est and Chicago delegation split into two parties at San Francisco, one returning by way of Salt Lake, the other going north to Portland, Tacoma, Seattle, Victoria, \'anc()U\er, and home by way of Winnipeg and St. Paul. Mr. John \\'illey of the "Hotel Monthly," returned with the Mid-West delegation, by way of Salt Lake City, and to him we owe the following" account : "At Reno, Xev., H. J. Gosse, of the Riverside Hotel, was at the depot with a mess of fresh caught trout, which he put onto the dining car for our use, and for which he received hearty thanks. "At Salt Lake City, I'reil Wcy, who came with the party, took us in charge. He gave us an automobile ride, a luncheon (l^anquet) at the \Mlson Hotel (menu in another column), a trip by special train to Saltair, and opportunity for a swim in Salt Lake. He also arranged for a special organ recital in the Mormon Tabernacle by Prof. John McClellan, said to be the greatest organist in the world. The organ is the largest in America. The organist in his playing produced soumls and melodies such as none of the audience had ever before heard come from an instrument of music. He produced the sweetest sounds, clear and low, yet filling the vast hall ; and deep and sonorous, as when thunder rolls in deafening roar. He imitated the viola, the bass viol, the trombone, the flute in its different forms ; he brought out from his one instrument the rounded music of a great orchestra. As he plaved we heard birds sing, the rich contralto voice of a prima doiuia. a solo by Caruso, a duet, a (juartet, a bo.\ tremolo and a mighty chorus of human voices. How he did it none of us could tell. It was as if an orchestra and t!ie soloists and the chorus were actually there. C)nly the hand of a wizard, it would seem, could produce such wonderful sounds, such harmony, such range from the very lowest to the very highest concei\able notes ; such music as sounded nearest to heavenl\- that mortal ears will ever hear. This recital alone was well worth the long journey to Salt Lake to hear. Prof. McClellan is Mormon born and a graduate of Ann Arbor L'niversity. "The daylight ride thmngh the Rocky Mountains from Glenwood Springs over the Tennessee Pass to Colorado Springs by Denver & Rio Grande Railroad was greatly enjoyed. The party hiund the mountains snow capped, the streams rushing, and the Grand Canon of the Arkansas River, ivith its hanging bridge, an awe-insiiiring sight. 344 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. d 1 = o rf C2 /• = 'a TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 345 "^^'e were cleverly entertained at the Antlers in Colorado Springs, also with a luncheon at the Cliff Mouse in Manitou, and we saw the canons, the Garden of the (!ods, and other sights around about Pike's Peak. "In Denver the Mid-West delegation was entertained by Sam Button of the Albany Hotel with an automobile ride round about the city, a \'isit to the parks, the museum, the auditorium, and other places of interest. lie loaded us with souvenirs, and bid us Godspeed to our respective hones." For the experiences of the other section of the Chicago delegaton we are indebted to Henry J. Bohn of "Hotel World." He wrote as folk ws : "About fifty of our Chicago-AIid-West delegation is in special cars attached to the regular evening train on the Mount Shasta route bound northward for the great Xorthwest. "And now we stop at Shasta Springs, near which is the hotel run 1)\- Airs. Morris of Hotel Victoria, San Francisco, and chairman of the women's reception committee, ^^'e get our fill of that incomparable natural sparkling soda water. It is an interesting ride. The crude mining towns, the new settlements in the agricultural valleys, all interest us 'tenderfeet.' "Another night's ride and Saturdaj- morning the early risers wake up at about the time we reach Salem, Oregon. Brother Johnston of our party, stepping onto the platform, is made the recipient on behalf of our H, M. M. B. A. delegation of a huge bouquet of flowers, tied with great red, white and blue ribbons, presented with the compliments of the Salem Board of Trade. And who was guilt}- of bringing this about? Miss Florine B. Hatch, now in municipal employ at Salem, but formerly a secretary of E. M. Statler, of the Hotel Statler, lUiffalo, and she knew all about the hotel folks and the H. M. M. B. A. She comes up to the banquet tendered us at Portland this evening, and brings a sure-enough invitation from the capital city for the H. M. M. B. A. to hold an annual meeting at Salem as soon as possible! "But here we are arrived at Portland! Here is H. C. Bowers, Phil Metschan, Jr., Theo. Krtise, M. C. Dickinson, representing the Portland Hotel Men's Association, and other citizens, who meet us with autos and take us to the hotels. It is a warm welcome indeed that we get from these hotelmen and the city, and we are made to feel as big as if we were the whole H. M. M. B. .\. ! Breakfast over and we become the guests of the hotel association and automobile club, of which M. C. Dickinson, the president of the Oregon Hotel Association, is also ])resident, and are taken on a forty-mile auto drive, to the grounds of the club; to the aviation field, where we see both local and foreign flying machines, returning to the Commercial Club, where we are given a com])limentary luncheon at 1 :30, followed by address of welcome by President Beckwith, and responded to by members of our dele- gation. At 3:30 special trolley cars are in waiting, and we are taken to the pleasant resort on Council Crest, where a splendid view of the city and surrounding country is obtained. An hour is ]nit in visiting the roof garden of the Nortania, where we are entertained by the proprietress, Mrs. Hogue, TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 847 and Manager Rowley, after which the Oregon. Imperial and Perkins Hotels are visited. Owing to the seniority of the hotel and its manager in Portland hotel aftairs, and the excellent facilities of the hotel for the purpose, the enter- tainment committee selected the Portland Hotel as the place for holding both the banquets for the gentlemen and the ladies, tendered by the Portland Hotel Association to the visiting hotel people. This Portland men's banquet is a most elaborate affair, choice, unique, artistic, elaborate, and the ladies' dinner is c|uite as exquisite. The table is set in a square, the diners all seated on the outside, while the center, about which the one hundred gen- tlemen are grouped, is filled with plants and flowers, a veritable park. All around the room are most elaborate floral decorations, formed of roses and other flowers. From the purely artistic standpoint some of our party declare it the finest dinner of the trip so far. The entertainment is also unique. A double-quartette of "cowboys" furnish the singing and it is good. The wine is served by IXIephistopheles and his satellites, all clad in the brightest carmine and well equipped with horns. Then there is a band of Indians that scampers around the tables, giving their war-whoops, but first of all should have been mentioned a bunch of pretty Japanese girls, which passes around the big table and gives to each guest a boutonniere. There is a succession of such innovations, and as the two banquets are served on the same floor, the music and entertainment and novel wine service alternates between the two rooms, until the coffee is reached on the men's menu, when the ladies are escorted to the men's banc|utt room to listen to the speeches. The menu card is handsomely embossed with 'H. M. M. B. A.' in gold, and bears a hand-painted 'Portland Rose' emblematic of the 'City of Roses.' The dedication was engraved: "I'anquet given to the members of the Hotel Men's ^Mutual Benefit Association, visiting Portland. April twenty-third, nineteen hundred and ten.' The banquet committee is H. C. Bowers, chair- man. M. C. Dickinson. Phil Metschan. Jr.. and Theo. Kruse. The toast- master is W. D. Wheelwright, a notable orator, and the speakers. Fred 'Van Orman. Edgar P.. Piper. Charles C. Horton. M. C. Dickinson. A. L. Sever- ance and Henry J. Bohn. The ladies were served the same dinner as the gentlemen, the decorations pink roses with vari-colored electric lights, the menu card a very artistic affair, and the favors an artificial rose fan. a thing of beauty." Portland, the Gateway of the Columbia In a burst of enthusiastic pride the Hebrew Psalmist, viewing the city of Jerusalem, exclaimed: "Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion." So must every citizen of Portland exclaim, and every stranger within her gates, when, on one of the hills overshadowing the city, he gazes down upon the fair panorama presented before him. For nature has dealt bountifully with Portland. Few cities in the world have a more wonderful setting, especially when it is remembered that Portland has no outlook on the ocean. By means of an electric street car. with a ■PAS THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 349 five-minute service, one may easily ascend from the heart of the city in half an hour to one of the salient "heights" and there see for himself whether this high praise be justified. And it is interesting here to compare, by way of parenthesis, the three Pacific cities of Los Angeles, San Francisco and Portland, in this matter of outlook. The two former cities each possess a scenic railway — Mount Lowe and Mount Tamalpais. It costs about two dollars to make the ascent of either. Each, of course, is longer and attains a greater height than the Portland electric car, but in the latter case the fare is five cents as com- pared with two dollars, and the scene, while very dift'erent, is as diversified and entrancing as one need desire. The view from the summit of Council Crest is one of the great views of the world. At our feet, sloping down from the tower on which we stand, is one of the choicest residence districts, every house occupying its commanding site and possessing an undisturbed outlook. Down, down, the eye travels to the great citv spread out to the right, to the left and before us. Through its heart winds the picturesque Willamette River, dividing Portland proper from the East Side, as East Portland is miw termed. To the left are the buildings left by the great fair, and beyond is the junction of the Willamette with the giant Columbia, whose course is clearl}- outlined further away, the two forming the two sides of a wide triangle. Then the eye is drawn irresistibly over the country be^^ond, ten, twenty, fifty and more miles away to the peerless snow-clad mountain jieaks of Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens, Three Sisters, Mount JeiTerson, Mount Adams, and, one hundred and forty miles away, I\Iount Rainier. The estimated population of I'ortland is not far from 300,000. The city has excellent churches, theaters, banks, schools and public buildings; its bridges are superior and are made to keep pace with the rapidly growing requirements. In its railway facilities the fact that the two great lines controlled by Harriman and Hill center here assures more than ordinary ad\-antages. Its street railway sy:tem is far ahead of that of San Francisco, and in that a universal system of five-cent fares and transfers to all parts of the city is provided, it surpasses Los Angeles. Its location makes it not only a railway center but a great and motlern seaport. Vessels of the deepest draught come and anclmr at its wharves, so that it has direct and speedy as well as chea]) freight and passenger coinmunication with the whole coast as well as the countries of the Orient. Its water supply is naturally superior to that of an}- city with which I am familiar in the civilized world, and is worthy of more than passing mention. Its main source of supply is ISull Run Lake, situated in the Cascade Mountains at an elevation of 3,500 feet above sea level and about si.xty-five miles away. The lake is about three miles long, nearly a mile \vide and verv deep. It lies seven miles northwest of Mount Hood. The deep canon, of the Sandv River jirfvtnts the discolored waters from the glaciers of that mountain striam from rvMiuing into the lake. It is sujiplied entireh' fnun unfailing 350 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. M. A. Nortonia Hotel, Portland, Ore. TO CALIFORNIA A.XD THE PACIFIC COAST 351 springs in tlie steep, rocky slopes surrounding it on all sides, fed by water from melting snow and rain. The only outlet from the lake is under an immense mass of shattered basalt, which fills the canon at its northwest end. From the base of this natural dam, 350 feet below the surface of the lake, the water gushes forth and forms Bull Run River, a tributary of the Sandy, which empties into the Columbia below Troutdale. Where is it possible to secure a more perfect supply? And, as the city increases in population, this lake alone is capable of supplying all its needs for a thousand years to come. Already the city has voted three million dollars for another pipe-line, which is rapidly being constructed. When this is completed a population of nearly seven hundred thousand is provided for at the present extravagant daily usage, for as yet the city places no limit to the amount of water the ordinary consumer may draw from his faucets. Should Portland, however, grow to the million, or five, or ten million mark in population. Bull Run Lake will even then be adequate for all needs. The whole water-shed is a forest reserve and the eternal snows of the mountains insure a never-ceasing supply. Of the "back country" which makes cities prosperous, too much can not be said of the natural resources of Oregon. Lumber is a great asset. The rivers are lined with floating rafts, and Portland's annual output of lumber amounts to over a hundred million feet. The wheat, prunes, apples and cherries of Oregon are already world-famed ; and in prunes, pears, peaches, plums, small berries and grapes Oregon is second only to California. Wal- nuts also grow excellently. Columbia River salmon is known in Europe and in Australasia, as well as in India and South America, and Oregon wool, bacon, hams and dressed meats find markets throughout the whole western country. Swift & Company have just completed a vast packing ]ilant at a cost of three million dollars. Portland's Commercial Club, housed in its own building, with the largest membership, extent of quarters and scope of work of any similar organiza- tion in the world, distributing millions of pages of advertising and answering thousands of inquiries each year from all parts of the civilized world. It also has its own magazine, "The Pacific Monthly," one of the few locally issued magazines that are found on the book-stalls of the metropolis and every city in the Union. Hence as a growing, thriving, prosperous, progressive western American city, Portland stands as a genuine type. On the esthetic side Portland is as cultured and progressive as on the material side. One of the wisest things the leaders in esthetic culture and democratic art in Portland have yet done is to name and herald the fame of Portland as "the rose carnival city." In the local literature the city is constantly referred to as "the rose city." A local rose-society has been organized and one of the principal lawyers, ^Ir. F. X. Holman, has made rose-culture his hobby, writing about it, lecturing upon it, and inviting people to see what they themselves can do with a little care and painstaking effort. Others have ably seconded his efi^orts until now, during the rose-blooming period. 3.52 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Portland is a veritable rose-garden. The result is a personal ])ride in one s own garden, that is felt by almost every man, woman and child in Portland ! Here is the secret of a city's beauty: that each individual feels a pride in seeing that his portion of it is as beautiful as he knows how to make it. and when these indi\-idual efforts can all be guided and controlled to a certainly artistic end. the results are pleasure-giving to all concerned. As a further result of the efforts of the Rose Society, an annual Rose Carni\'al is now held in Portland, in the month of June, which bids fair to rival the world-famous Santa Barbara flower festival and the Pasadena Tournament of Roses, which latter, being held on New Year's Dav, has lieen a marvelous factor in the advertising of Southern California's winter climate, ^\'ashing•ton's Birthday in Portland is made "Rose Planting Day," and thus tells the wide world that her climate in February is balmv and spring-like. The Rose Festival of Portland has the advantage of water as well as land upon wdiich to display its floral treasures. In the daytime tens of thousands of delighted people acclaim their jov as the beautiful, flower- garlanded vehicles of ever\' size and kind pass them, and then, at night, every sort of water craft, large and small, launches, yachts, barges, pleasure- boats, canoes, fairly laden with roses and other flowers, glide in silent pro- cession through the glorious waterway carved by the stately Willamette River. Pleasure, jiure happiness, the cultivation of the esthetic senses, the educa- tion of the children in civic beauty, are all combined in festivals of this kind, and he is a short-sighted business man who does not see the reflex actijn of such art cultivation upnn the commerce of a city that is wise enough to foster it. In its park system Portland has taken Time 1:)}- the forelock and alread}' has begun to provide for the future. It possesses about 236 acres of park and parkway, scattered all over the city, and is now providing a boulevard system to connect them all and thus make a grand, all-enil>racing system that can be followed from any point wherever it may be struck. In 1908 the city voted $1,000, COO for the preparatory w'ork on this boulevard. Citv Park, as its name implies, is "close in" the city, and Macleary Park is close by. In the former are two noted statues — noted both as works of art and also because they have struck away from the ordinary and con- ventional "(general" on horseback, soldier or other reminder of war. These statues are McNeil's "Coming of the \\'hite Man" and that of "Sacajawea." the woman guide of Lewis and Clark. There is a haughty, defiant dignity on the face of the chief who stands with folded arms, as one of the youths of the tribe, surprised, alert, wondering, calls his attention tn the coming of the whites. It shows Mr. AlcXeil at his best, and reveals him not only a master of the sculptor's art. but a master interpreter of the Indian mind. The statue stands on a base of rough rock and perfectly harmonizes with its surroundings. The same may be said also of "Sacajawea." A rudely clad Indian matron, young, of pleasing countenance, her baby on her Ijack, her whole manner one of gentle kindliness and sympathy, though her rough TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 353 Imperial Hotel, Portland, Ore. 354 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. AI. B. A. appearance betokens her one of nature's out-door children, she stands with outstretched hand pointing the way to the far-away western sea that Lewis and Clark sought to reach. How much Oregon, the great Pacific \\'est and the whole United States owe to the Indian Sacajawea no historian has yet told. This monument is a fitting beginning of the public honors that for the instruction of ourselves and our children we should continue to bestow upon her memory. ^^- %-•- --.- Floating ir.gs on the , Willamette Kner. Oregon Cu\\ (,)re. Closely linked with the history of Oregon is the famous Imperial Hotel — so closely, in fact, that no history of the State would be complete without this noted hostelry as a central setting. The Xew Imperial, "Oregon's Greatest Hotel." is a new milestone, so to speak, in the social, political and industrial growth of the commonwealth. It is the happy realization of twelve years of hotel development, during which time the Imperial has been the official home of governors, senators, financiers, and men of the highest official position in the State. Many important chapters of Oregon history have taken form under its historic roof, and so closely identified has the hotel become with the progress of th(; State that it has become an institution that is inseparable. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC C(JAST 355 Oregon Hotel, Poitlaiici. Ore. 356 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Xew Imperial is now the largest and most modernly equipped hotel in the Northwest. It represents the expenditure of a million and a half dollars, and embodies the best architectural and technical skill in the science of modern hotel construction and furnishing". The main entrance is on Seventh street, with entrances also on Washington and Stark streets. The magnificently furnished arcade, known as "The Trail," extends from the Washington street side to Stark street. "The T'-ail" is finished in mahogany, terazzo, and Italian marble, and is one of the most delightful bits of architecture in Western hoteldom. The entire "Trail" is lavishly strewn with rich furnishings that harmonize with the general air of luxury. The walls of "The Trail'' are decorated with noted pictures of Oregon scenery. It is the consensus of opinion that some of the choicest bits of American scenery are found along the famous Columbia river. The pictures add a beautiful touch of local color. Rising to a height of nine stories, the hotel contains nearly 500 elegantly furnished rooms. All are outside rooms. There are over 100 elegant suites with private baths. The hotel is conducted on the European plan, with a beautiful modern grill operated under the same management. The grill has a capacity of 300 guests, is paneled in leather and decorated with a motif in green, gold and purple. Mr. Phil Metschan, Jr.. manager of The Imperial, is recognized as the leading hotelman of Oregon. He has spent practically all his life in the business and has a lifelong record of brilliant successes. He holds the office of treasurer of the Oregon Hotel Association and vice-president for Oregon of the American Hotel Men's Protective Association. Associated with Mr. Metschan are his father, Phil. Metschan, Sr., and two brothers, Otto \\'. and A. H. Metschan, secretary and treasurer, respectively. ^^'e now arrange for a special day car only to Tacoma, and Sunday morning, at 9 o'clock, we are en route again, under the escort of Mr. Norman and Mr. Blackwell of that city. We arrive at Tacoma at 2 :30, and are met by autos and also a Seattle committee, headed by "1 Silly" King, and. of course, we are dee-lighted. In a jift'y we are at the Tacoma, wash up, and then we find a tasteful dinner spread on the great \-eranda of this hotel, which stands on the "mountain top" of the city, from where we see the great Mt. Tacoma. After the dinner in this delightful spot, the mayor makes a speech cf welcome, followed by the secretar}- of the Chamlier of Commerce, a charming speech by William Norman, and then, of course, some of us ha\ e to "talk back." And we like this spot so well, and eat and talk so long, that we can't ride about city before we go to the boat at six o'clock. Mr. Bohn is modest in his reference to talking back. He, himself, is a good speaker, and made several excellent speeches on the trip, but those who heard him on all the occasions say that his Tacoma speech surpassed them all. Mr. Norman had made an interesting boosting speech, taking TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 357 Molel Wasliington, Seattle, Wash. 3.58 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Tacoma as his text and using each letter of the name as a suggestion for a theme, as T for Transportation and Terminal, A for Aggressiveness and Alacrity, etc. Mr. Bohn seemed to take his cue from that and told what Tacoma meant: That Mount Tacoma was not named after an Indian Chief, but that an Indian Chief was named after Mount Tacoma ; that the word Tacoma was not an Indian word at all, but a Japanese word; that in the Japanese language Tacoma — pronounced Ta-koma, with the accent on the first syllable — meant the topmost light, the highest light in the world, the morning light, the bright light, the supreme light of the universe, and of course the city of Tacoma stood for all that this word nuant in the rare combinations of meaning that the Japanese put into their words. With the mountain right in view and under the circumstances this speech "caught the crowd." It is a lovely ride across Puget Sound from Tacoma to Seattle, and as it is Sunday the boat is loaded with local pleasure seekers. As we approach the famous boom city of the Northwest it is dark, and the metropolis "sitting on her seven hills" presents a beautiful picture — the tens of thousands of electric lights shine brighter than the stars above. Away on the heights we read the big electric sign, "Hotel Washington." It seems very high on the hill, but we are told that the roof of this tall hotel is now at the altitude of what was the foundation of the big hotel that stood on this site. So do they level the hills in Seattle? As we land at the dock we land in the arms of the reception committee and with ta.xis are taken to our hotels. At Tacoma the Seattle committee handed us printed itineraries, so we know the program. Monday morning, April 25th. we gather at the Rainier Grand Hotel and take autos in charge of the committee, and are shown the city in a way that would satisfy even the man from Missouri. Gee ! how we do go up and down those hills! And away out into the wooded suburbs to the Country Club, where, at 1 :30, we are served with a fine luncheon. We return and do the residence and university districts, visit the A.-Y.-P. e-xposition grounds, and see the town by auto from hill to hill. To-night we are bancjueted at the fine Hotel Washington, and what the ladies particularly applaud is that for the first time during this long journey at an evening banquet the ladies and gentlemen dine together. It is a fine dinner in a fine room in a fine hotel. The bill of fare is very expensively gotten up, heavy cards tied with broad blue and white satin ribbons, the title page engraved: "Reception and banquet given to the visiting members of the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Association by the Seattle Hotel Men's Association, on Monday, April the twenty-fifth, one thousand nine hundred and ten, at the New Washington Hotel, Seattle, Wash." Another page is engraved with the ofificers and committees, including the names of W. J. Blackwell. W. G. King, Charles F. Lyons, W. G. Potts, Charles Perry, J. M. Lux, H. E. Kennedy. The speakers are Hon. H. C. Gill. Hon. J. L. Wilson, J. E. Chilberg, W. J. Blackwell, and W\ G. King is toastmaster. .Mter the dinner there is dancing in the ballroom. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 359 -.■»m»M«arii 360 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Hotel Butler, Seattle, Wash. The "king" among the eastward hotel boys who have gone westward in the past ten years is William G. King, who in his younger days was known as "Billy" King of A'lilwaukee. When he left the Plankinton House in the beer metropolis, the hotel in which he had risen from a position in the storeroom to that of manager, his friends thought he probably made a mistake, but he didn't. Mr. King assumed the management with a proprie- tary interest of the Hotel Butler at Seattle, and in that hotel set a new standard for hoteldom in the flourishing Northwest country. Since he opened the Butler his eastern friends have heard nothing but tales of pros- perity about him. He sized up conditions aright, and notwithstanding Seattle has been, and is, building hotels galore, they do not seem to materially affect the prosperity of the Hotel Butler. The continued growth and development of the Butler's business is due chiefly to three things : First, the Hotel Butler is a first-class building, as shown in the illustration herewith. Secondly, it is in the heart of Seattle's business center, at Second avenue and James. Thirdly, when it reopened in 1SK)3 it set a new hotel standard for the city in the matter of cuisine and service. Mr. King's personality and his very close attention to the smallest details of the management soon made the Butler known as one of the most carefully managed hotels on the Pacific coast. He had had a long and most excellent training in the famous Plankinton House, which had attained a national reputation for its excel- lence in cuisine and management. In other words, Mr. King transplanted the Plankinton from Milwaukee to Seattle, with an improvement in structure and a European system of service instead of the old American plan. Seattle owns its own water system. The water is brought from Cedar River, in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, by gravitation, and is very soft and pure. The distance from the headworks to Seattle is twent}'-eight miles, and the water is carried to the city in wooden and steel pipes. The daily capacity of the plant is 65,000,000 gallons. The plant, besides furnishing the consumers with water at a very low price, is providing a source of revenue, which, after payirtg the operating expenses, interest and improvement, together with substantial payment on the original cost of the system, gives a liandsome surplus to the city, which, at present, is all being invested in new construction. The construction of a second pipe line for which bonds in the sum of $2,250,000 were voted, was recently completed, doubling the former capacity of the plant. The city owns its electrical lighting plant, which furnishes light and pow er for municipal and other purposes. This system was opened in 1905, at an initial cost of $840,000, including the distributing station and equipment. On November 1, 1908, the investment had reached $1,694,272. Bonds to the amount of $800,000 were recently voted for additions and extensions. The estimated cost of the entire system, when completed, including extensions now being made, will be $2,500,000. The power is derived from the falls of Cedar River, 12 miles up stream from the headwnrks of the water system. The TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 361 lighting plant saves a large portion of the sum heretofore paid for street illum- ination, by the taxpayers, and also, acts as a regulator of the prices charged by private concerns. There is a large fleet of steamers plying upon the waters of Puget Sound, with Seattle as their home port. These steamers carry freight and passengers to more than 200 adjacent cities, towns, villages and ports at very low rates. The local traffic carried on by its fleet aggregates about $25,000,000 per annum. The public schools of Seattle rank among the very best in the country, and tlie educational system in vogue stands pre-eminent for thoroughness and excellence. The University of Washington is located here, upon a beautiful site of 3.^.5 acres, lying between Lake L^iion and Lake Washington. The University is free to the youth of the State, and is well provided with facilities for giving them a liberal education. The grounds afford the site for the Alaska-Yukon- Pacific Exposition. The City has an excellent free public library containing 102,835 volumes on January 1. 1909, besides a large number of magazines, periodicals, pam- phlets and government documents. Circulation of books for home use from the library in 1908 was approximately 560,000. The city has provided $145,923.88 for maintenance and other expenses of the library system in 1909. Andrew Carnegie donated the sum of $220,000 for the central building, the city purchased a site at a cost of $100,000 and spent about $100,000 more in completing and equipping the building. This central library was completed and thrown open to the public in December, 1906. Of the five branch libraries now operating, only one. the Ballard branch, is in a permanent Carnegie building, the branches at Fremont, Green Lake, and Universitv occupving rented quarters. Three permanent branch buildings are soon to be erected from an additional donation of $105,000 recently made by Mr. Carnegie for that purpose. These three buildings will be located at Green Lake, University and West Seattle. There are about 265 churches and church societies in Seattle and the adjoining suburl)s. representing a greater number of religious beliefs than is generallv found in a city of its size. Almost every known denomination of the Christian religion has its devotees, and nearly all of them have regular organ- izations. This is owing to the fact that the population of the city is cosmopoli- tan in its character, and has representatives from almost every civilized countr\- on the globe. There are three daily newspapers and about sixty weekly and monthly periodicals published in the city. There are a number of business, social, educational, literary and musical clubs in the city. The leading business men's associations are the Seattle Chamber of Commerce, the Seattle Merchants' Association and the Manu- facturers' Association. The leading social clubs are the Rainier Club, the University Club, the Seattle Athletic Club, the Arctic Club, the Firloch Club, the Golf and Countrv Club, and the Countrv Club. THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. Hotel Savoy, Seattle, Wash. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 363 X 364 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The Piiget Sound Navy Yard is located just across the Sound from Seattle, and its supplies are purchased here. The expenditures for supplies exceed $100,000 per month. It has the only government drydock on the Pacific Coast large enough to dock a battleship, and construction of a much larger one to cost $2,000,000 is already under way. The yard gives employment to from 700 to 1,500 mechanics and is growing in importance yearly. Fort Lawton, a United States military post, is situated within the city Hmits. The site embraces 605 acres, donated to the government by the people of Seattle, making a beautiful park and drill ground. The garrison now con- sists of four companies of infantry, and will be increased in the near future to a full regimental post of twelve companies. The United States Assay Office at Seattle was established July 15. 1898, and up to December 31, 1908, had received and paid for gold dust in the \alue of $175,264,603.93. This represents 10,264,068.19 troy ounces, or 351.8 avoir- dupois tons. Tuesday forenoon it is a go-as-you-please, but at 1 :30 we go to the Colman dock and board the "H. B. Kennedy" to visit the Bremerton Navy Yard. We enjoy a very pleasant ride on the Sound, and several interesting hours we spend in looking over the gunboat "Washington" in (lr\-(lock, and the other war giants in the harbor. We are duly impressed with the size and importance of this fast growing Pacific naval station, and likewise with the way that the vantage points around this deep and large sound are protected against invasion by an enemy. We return shortly after 5 o'clock, and after dinner we get into our glad clothes once more and attend a very pleasant reception and ball tendered by the Washington Annex Hotel, where we say some final farewells to members of our Northwest delegation, for some go eastward over the Northern Pacific, while some thirt\' of us will go to Victoria and homeward via the Canadian Pacific. Seattle is a great city. It is built on a series of hills overlooking Elliott Bay, one of the land-locked arms of Puget Sound. It is a typical western city of western energy and rapid growth. Since the Klondike discoveries in the Northwest Territory, the later gold discoveries in Alaska and the beginning of the development of Puget Sound trade with the Orient, Seattle has gone forward by leaps and bounds, until from a population of 43,000 in 1890 it has grown to a city of 241,550 at the present time. Like many of the localities in the Northwest, and particularly in the State of Washington, Seattle's name is of Indian origin. It was given in honor of old Chief Seattle, or Sealth, as it is sometimes written. The old chief was a respected friend of the whites, even when others of the natives counselled hostilities. But that is only a memory now. Seattle is one of America's really great and progressive cities. Its tall buildings of modern type, its well paved streets, its public utilities, its beautiful parks and its metropolitan hotels served to convince many of the eastern visitors that the United States is by no means composed of the territory lying east of the Mississippi River. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 365 THE NEW YORK DELEGATION From the account written by Mr. Gehring, editor of the "New York Hotel Review," I extract the following: For three weeks the H. M. M. B. A. trains liad been moving in a westerly direction. On the night of April 21st, however, the Easterners began their homeward journey. This was by no means uninteresting. On the contrary, there was no haste, and every point along the route that was worth \isiting was made the occasion for a stop, if only for a few moments. At Salt Lake City the party was met at the station by a delegation of hotelmen and a committee representing the Commercial Club. Many enjoyed a trip to Salt Air Beach, while all the party afterwards visited the Mormon Tabernacle, where an organ recital was given by Professor Mc- Clellan. F'ollowing the regular recital the professor, as a special courtesy to Mr. McCann, invited the New York delegation to the choir enclosure, where another special recital on the world-famous organ was given. A tour of the city under the guidance of the Mayor pleasantly filled in another hour or two. Then, conducted by Proprietor Holmes, of the Knutsford, the Eastern delegation inspected the new Hotel Semloh, which was opened that day. The party was entertained at luncheon at the Commercial Club, where brief addresses were made by members of the club and responded to by Mr. Tierney. In the State of Colorado The New York Society of Colorado, headed by Samuel F'. Dutt(_)n, of the Hotel Albany, met the New York train at Salida. Accompanying Mr. Dutton was his pretty daughter, who distributed flowers to the ladies of the party, and then the original Sam, with his usual thoughtfulness, had brought with him a trunk loaded with newspapers from the home towns of the trav- elers as well as the representative hotel journals, and the mail which had been forwarded to the Albany for members of the party. That Dutton Denver spirit put renewed energv into the party, and his associates on the receiving committee, Messrs. French, W arner, Nichols and Dunning, \vere no less considerate of the comforts of their erstwhile guests. Lea\-ing Salida the part}- headed for the Royal Gorge, leaving the train on the swinging bridge for a photograph which is elsewhere reproduced. An unexpected feature was added to the itinerary. It was a stop at Canyon Citv and included there an automobile ride over Skyline Drive, from which the panorama was the most beautiful which it has been the writer's pleasure to look upon. Returning from the drive the party sat down to a banquet at the lioard of Manager Denton, of the Hotel Denton. After coffee the partv was enlightened further on the great opportunities in Colorado and Canyon City by ex-Governor Peabody and a number of other prominen-; citizens. Brief responses were delivered by Mr. Tierney, Mr. Reed, Mr McGlvnn I maiilen speech), Mr. Dutton. Mr. Iteming, and Mr. Gehring. 366 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. SAM F. DUTTON. Proprietor Albany Hotel. Denver, Colo.; President American Hotel Protective Association of the United States and Canada. S. F. Dutton, proprietor of the Albany, was born in Chautauqua county, New York, in 1872. At the age of 12 years he began work as bell hop to various hotels on Chautauqua Lake, his first employer being Mr. Horace Fox, of the old Chautauqua Hotel. Mayville. N. Y. In 1888 he went to Eureka Springs, Ark., re- maining until 1892. when he became assistant steward of the Clifton House in Chicago. In 1893 he went to Denver with Col. J. D. Fan- ning, at the time he took the Albany Hotel. In turn he was storeroom man, steward, assist- ant manager, and manager, remaining until 1S99, when he became superintendent of dining cars and eating houses on the Santa Fe road. In IJOo he returned to Denver and formed the Albany Hotel Co. He is identified with nearly all the commer- cial bodies of Denver; for two years president of the Denver Hotel and Restaurant Men's Association; four years president of the Rocky Mountain Hotel Glen's Association; wa.s one of the organizers and the first president of the "Western Hotel Men's Protective Association, and in August last was elected president of the American Hotel Protective Association of the United States and Canada. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 367 On to Denver ! And now on to Denver, where the arch of "welcome" was flanked on each side by antomobiles, with "Sam" Dntton personally singing out "This way to the Albany!" on one side, and "Mel" Wright sounding "This way to the Adams !" on the other side. The evening was a "go as you please," and we did. Some harrowing tales resulted, but they can not be printed. Next morning another delightful automobile tour all over the city, its parks and points of interest, including the auditorium where Bryan was nominated, v.-as the program, followed by a "get-away" luncheon at the Albany, which had all the Dutton Denver spirit for which his name is famous. Mr. Dutton's energy attracted the admiration of every one, and his anxiety to outdo our hosts en route was shared by every member of the staff from Mr. Paget down. Everybody enjoyed Denver immensely — because it "felt" like New York, looked like New York, had a New York "boy" at the helm and we are approaching New York. The luncheon was delightfully served. The Albany Hotel, Denver, Colo. The Albany Hotel was operated by different ]5roprietors for several years, and had a rather checkered career, until Sam Dutton, in 1904, organized a company called The New Albany Hotel Company, and leased the hotel for a period of 15 years. The hotel was remodeled and modernized. $185,000 being spent in this work. The business was so successful that it was only a year and a half before an addition larger than the original hotel was added, which was opened in 1906, giving 300 rooms, one-half of which have baths. The .\lbanv has become noted on account of the superiority of its five cafes and its well-a]ipointed, well-lighted sample rooms. The Albany connnands at least 70 per cent of the commercial trade coming to Denver — all of it, in fact, where up-to-date sample rooms are required. In the year of 1909, another $72,000 was spent in improvements and in new furniture, all the rooms with bath now being furnished in a high-class manner. Remodeling of the dining-rooms was made at this time, as well as redec- orating and recarpeting the entire house. At the present time the rotunda is being remodeled and refurnished at a cost of $22,000, making it the most spacious and elegant hotel rotunda in Denver. The Albany, on account of its location and spacious ground floor facili- ties, has become known far and wide as the headcjuarters for politicians, mining men, irrigation men, and in fact for all business men coming to Denver from various points of the country, and the familiar saying in Colorado is — "Meet me at the Albany". Probably more banquets have been held at the Albany in the last three years than all the other hotels in Denver put together. ]\Ir. F. W. Paget is the manager of the .\lbany. Card of Thanks As a token of their appreciation to all who had made their trip so pleasant and agreeable the New York delegation sent the following to all their various hosts : 368 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. i \:« r« EM iM t.-« r ■> \ » \m \m u* M" P • v« t» i.« r»u" ■ ta va v» >-■ !-■ !-• \« c» p« ira ra m v« !--■ taj)!™ (ra f" P«[fr.a im m ym rm fm t a m %m Km r ■ ■ r» K* t-« <\SiE*$Si"" '" ' 'i^w^'^ 7^1 4 TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 36-9 To Our Hosts: Anidiigst so iiiiich to he grateful for. it would indeed be an invidious distinction to differentiate in the mention of hotel keepers and friends, who so enthusiastically and generously contributed toward the entertainment and comfort of the New York delegation of the H. M. M. B. A. members and their families, while en route on special train, to attend the thirty-first annual meeting of the association in Los Angeles, Cal., on April 12. 1910. No words can picture in adequate colorings the magnitude and cordiality of the lavish and unique hospitality that was dispensed to our party at ever)'' place we stopped. The welcome we received was as spontaneous as it was sincere, and it truly manifested the broad and liberal spirit of fraternity and good fellowship that prevails among hotel keepers all over our glorious land. As expressive of our genuine feelings of appreciation for all favors conferred by our legion of hosts everywhere, we therefore accept of this medium at this time to publicly acknowledge "our gratitude in behalf of the ninety-three men and women -who composed our delegation, and to give to our hosts the assurance that it shall be a great privilege and pleasure for each anrl every one of us to reciprocate for all their kindnesses whenever an occasion presents itself to do so in the future. ^^'ith hearts full of golden thanksgiving, with minds full of joyous memories, we hereby extend to you. our hosts, the warmest considerations of atttction and loyalty, and all for the honor and glory of our beneficent association which we all love so well. Faithfully yours, FRED A. REED. EDWARD M. TIERNEY. New York, May 10. 1910. Committee. THE NEW ENGLAND DELEGATION The New Englanders did not stop at Salt Lake, though the invitation to do so was cordial and urgent. Hastening on to Denver, they were the first to be the recipients of the rare brands of Colorado hospitality. Manager Paget, Mrs. Dutton and Carl R. Evans did the honors. After a brief rest the party was shown Denver by the Cab and Omnibus Com- pany and treated to a complimentary dinner at the Albany. There was an address of welcome by C. W. Franklin, to which Capt. Harry L. Brown made fitting response. The Boston special left for Chicago at midnight on Monday with a tired but happy lot of passengers on board. It arrived in Chicago on the morning of April 26th. having come direct, without stops, from Denver. With the exception of Luke J. Minahan and half a dozen of his friends who were guests of the Blackstone, the party repaired to Hotel La Salle, where they opened headquarters in a suite ot parlors on the seventh floor and prepared for a day of go-as-you-please. Some went out calling on friends, others visited among the stores, while the majority devoted their time to seeing the sights. In the evening Mr. 370 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. The BlackFtone Hotel, Chicago, III. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 371 Minahan entertained his company at dinner served in one of the private dining rooms of the Blackstone, and it was a particularly nice spread. At midnight the tourists proceeded on their way homeward, declaring that next year Boston would show the Pacific coasters a thing or two. The Blackstone Hotel, Chicago The Blackstone is the last word that, so far, has been said in hotels. Designed by the well known architects, Marshall & Fox. it is a building of individuality. Being on the Lake Front, close to the very business heart of Chicago, it necessarily had to be of the sky-scraper type, but in all its details quiet elegance, refinement and culture are foremost and apparent. Mr. Willey of the "Hotel Monthly" well says what all experienced travelers will confirm, viz.: "I never before saw a hotel that comes so near the ideal, so near per- fection in all eye-pleasing, combined with serviceable qualities. It is a triumph of the decorators' and furnishers' arts." The Various Routes to California California is not now the isolated country it was in the "days of gold." One by one, railway and other routes have been opened until now the traveler has an extensive choice. The Southern Pacific Route from Chicago, by way of the Union Pacific, called the "Overland" Route, was the one first constructed, and is too well known to need description. The "Sunset" Route of the same company is the one followed and described in the chapter of the New York delegation, while that of the Santa Fe was followed by the New England and Chicago delegations. The remainder of this chapter is devoted to other routes which it is well for contemplative tourists to the Coast to remember: all demonstrating the great and rapid growth of the West, to demand the ever-enlarging facilities provided by these new avenues of travel. From New York to California, by Steamer to New Orleans and Thence by Rail There are several wa}s that one may reach California, but none more delightful, varied and charming than by the Atlantic Steamship Lines of the Southern Pacific Co. 1 have crossed the Atlantic and other bodies of water many times, I am accounted a wretchedly poor sailor, but I made the trip from New York to New Orleans in the steamer "Comus," and while squeamish for a few hours, I look back upon the trip as one of the most agreeable and delightful in my life. In the first place, the steamers are new, well built, and excellently appointed for passenger service. One feels per- fectly safe in them, even though he were to cross the Atlantic in the worst kind of weather, instead of merely sailing down past Cape Hatteras into the sea of perpetual summer. The next important consideration is the personnel of the officers and crew. We found them all, from captain to deck hand, bent on giving us a good time, and while, of course, the stewards 372 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. U. A. didn't object to a tip, they gave their service with a whole-hearted readiness that made one anxious to hand out a tip rather larger than usual. For instance, I wanted a salt water bath every morning — and got it, though' when one enters the Mississippi River there is no salt water. Mj^ steward said he would arrange it if I would get up a little earlier. He would have the bathtub filled while out in the bay and keep it readv for me. And he did so, to my great pleasure and comfort. A third comfort is that all the passengers' rooms are outside rooms, so that one is never without an outlook over the sea. Baggage can be checked through to the Pacific Coast or any intervening point, and vet part of it kept in your cabin for use while on the steamer. Mark Twain well describes the scene on leaving port : "All was bustle and confusion (I have seen that remark before, somewhere). The pier was crowded with carriages and men ; passengers were arriving and hurry- ing on board ; the vessel's decks were encumbered with trunks and valises ; groups of excursionists arrayed in attractive traveling costumes, etc. Finally, above the banging, and rumbling, and shouting, and hissing of steam, rang the order to 'Cast off!' — a sudden rush to the gangways — a scampering ashore of visitors — a few revolutions of the screws, and we were off." The trip down the river to Sandy Hook is always interesting. Man- hattan slowly seems to spread out and form a picture, with, as we pass the Battery, a glimpse of Brooklyn and the East River, with the three great suspension bridges connecting the two boroughs. Past Governor's Island, Bedloe's and the Statue of Liberty, the green slopes of Staten Island ami then Coney Island came into view, with Sandy Hook on the other side. Soon we are out in the wide Atlantic, and as night comes on, the shores recede, and we practically lose sight of land until two days later we glimpse it again in palm-covered Florida. But the sea is interesting in a thousand ways, day and night, and especially when one knows he is going to be out upon it, in its lone vastness, only for two or three days. The temperature steadily rises as we approach the Straits of Florida, and from the time one catches his first view of the low-lying shore of this State of semi-tropical verdure, until he reaches New Orleans there is not a moment when he is not interested, charmed, attracted, fascinated. The water is a rich sapphire, and as the vessel pushes its way along it leaves a froth of purest white, which hisses and crackles, as if full of life and elec- tricity. To this day the memory of that exquisite colored water remains with me. Then we see the Fowey Rocks lighthouse, an openwork steel tower, many of which dot the outer line of the Florida Keys. For a whole day one watches these picturesque little coral islets and counts the light- houses. Then he sees the concrete arches of the wonderful railway to Key West, which reaches across these stretches of sea, from key to key. It is night when the vessel turns the westernmost of the Florida Keys and makes a great plunge into the Gulf of Mexico, aiming straight across it to TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 373 the mouth of the Mississippi. There the pilot takes us in hand, and we have that dehghtfully fascinating ride of the "Father of the Waters" to New Orleans, sitting on deck and noting all the places of historic interest and of picturesque beauty as we ride along. And New Orleans is a charming city — historic, quaint, peculiar, pro- gressive. It has hotels equal to any in the country, and its water, sewerage and drainage system, recently completed, is the finest in the known world. One ought alwaj'S to arrange to spend a week in New Orleans before starting on west. The rest of the journey from New Orleans by rail, with the oil-burning locomotives, and consequently no cinders, no dust, no uncleanliness and no annoyance over the Southern Pacific Company's "open-window" route — as their "Sunset" route might not unappropriately be termed — is the same as that described in the chapter on the journey of the New York delegation. For, while that delegation did not come down by steamer to New Orleans, they did take the Southern Pacific's route at that city, and thence continued through to California. It is a wonderful tribute to the building energy of Collis P. Huntington, the genius of the Southern Pacific Railway, that, in his lifetime, he succeeded in building a railway from New Orleans, through to California, then practically traversing the complete 1,000 miles of length of that State, traversed Oregon to Portland. The lines of the Southern Pacific now extend to Seattle, Wash., thus giving this companv a direct line from New Orleans to Seattle. The Western Pacific Railway The completion of a new line to the Pacific Coast is a great event in the history of railroading and worthy the notice of the reading and traveling world. On August 22. 1910, the first passenger train was run over the Western Pacific Ry.. which is the western extension of the Gould Lines Irom Salt Lake City, thus giving that s3-stem a continuous line from Pittsburg and Detroit to the Pacific Coast. This new railway is 927 miles in length from Salt Lake City to San Francisco, the most western four miles being the ferry across the Bay of San Francisco from the Oakland Mole. LTnlike the Central Pacific, which has two roads from Ogden to Lucin, the one rounding Salt Lake at the north, and the other crossing it directly by the world-famed "Lucin cut-oft," the ^^'estern Pacific rounds the southern end of the lake, and practically reaches the Central line at Wells, paralleling it fairly closely until well past Winnemucca, where it keeps almost due west, while the Central bears to the south. The passage of the Sierras is made through Beckwourth Pass, discovered in the early pioneer days by that picturesque and renegade scout, Indian chief, bear hunter. Indian trader, scalawag, and all-around liar, Jim Beckwourth, one of the most noted frontiersmen of "the days of "49." On the western side of the Sierras the road makes a quick sweep to the south, from Las Plumas via C)roville, Marysville and Sacramento to Stockton, where it sweeps again to the west and reaches Oakland \ia Xiles Canvon. 374 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. TO CALIFORNIA AXD THE PACIFIC COAST 375 Naturally it opens up some picturesque passes hitherto untouched by railways, and will therefore attract the curious and interested sightseer. 1 he \\'estern Pacific is now in the field for freight and passenger business. Naturally its eastern connections will bring it much of both, but the great tfst is the quality of the service it renders. Its officers are experienced railway men in exery department, and there is little doubt but that they will not only win their share of existing traffic, but will materially aid in the further upbuilding of our great Pacific empire. The Salt Lake, San Pedro and Los Angeles Railway Leaving Salt Lake City, the leading metropolis of the intermountain country, trains of the Salt Lake Route (the scenic short line to Southern California), give the traveler a final view of the Tabernacle and the Mormon Temple, famous as architectural triumphs, and monuments to one of the greatest religious movements known to history. Set in a bowl of mountains painted with all the hues of the rainbow, Salt Lake is one of the scenic cities of the American continent. Leaving it, the passenger over the Salt Lake Route passes along the Great Salt Lake, a vast inland sea whose presence has never been explained, and whose wonders have never half been told. Rolling on. the train draws up in the early morning at Caliente, having crossed the great State of Utah and a part of Nevada during the hours of darkness. Caliente is a Spanish word, meaning "hot," and is so named on account of the hot springs found there, which have been known since the earliest Indian days. Leaving Caliente behind, the wanderer westward bound is borne at once into the gorges of the desert mountains. Myriad-hued buttes rise on every side; on every hand great gashes sear their way back into the heart of a wilderness of hills more beautiful than the famed "Bad Lands" of Wyoming. Somber grays and browns of lower slopes give way to blues and greens and reds and yellows on the upper shelves of the buttes. until all finally merge in the most gorgeous of all the panoramas on the way westward — Rainbow Canyon. Out of this canyon the train rolls down into the rich Las Vegas \^alley, first settled more than a hundred years ago by the Spanish padres. Las Vegas also is a Spanish word, meaning "The Meadows," and from here the Las \'egas and Tonopah railroad leads of? to the great mining districts of Rhyolite, Beatt}-, Goldfield and contiguous territory. Then again onward the train speeds toward the mountain wall which cuts off the sea-coast and its beautiful cities. The barricade of peaks, the Sierra Madre of the old Spaniards, seems a solid chain ; there appears no break in its desert face, until after Barstow has been passed. Then, suddenly falling a])art — for so it seems — the mountains open a path and the train rises toward the summit of Cajon Pass. Here, too, is another 376 THE 1910 TRIP OF THE H. M. M. B. A. TO CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST 377 Spanish word, "Cajon," meaning "box," so named because of the fact that from either of its entrances the pass appears to have no end, to be a \eritable box in the mountains. Through the Cajon, rising to the summit and then dropping away by a rapid descent, the train flies to the Land of Oranges, welcomed through the gateway by that strange mark of the mountains, the Arrowhead. On the left there flashes suddenly into view a huge arrowhead, over thirteen hundred feet long and proportionately wide, carved by the hand of nature on the face of the mountain wall. Heavy with Indian and white men's legends is this arrowhead ; from it the famous Arrowhead Hot Springs, near by, were named, and from it the Salt Lake Route took its equally famous trademark. Clear and distinct, regular in outline as if carved with some Titan's chisel, this strange land- mark has been a puzzle to geologists, a riddle to which they have found no acceptable answer. How it came there, or when, no man knows. Below the arrowhead, under the shelter of its protecting blade, lies San Bernardino, terminus of the first Mormon trail from Salt Lake City to Cali- fornia and now a thriving modern city. At San Bernardino begins the orange belt of the Golden State. Near it lies the beautiful city of Redlands, and just below, on the sloping shoulder of the Sierra Madre range, the Salt Lake train passes through Riverside, the center of probably the most famous orange section in the world and a beautiful city of flower-embowered homes. There is Rubidoux mountain, crowned with a huge cross, raised to honor Padre Junipera Serra, and miles-long drives lined with palms, such drives as can be seen nowhere else in the world outside the tropics. From Riverside the Salt Lake Route passes through Ontario and Pamona and the fruitful San Gabriel Valley and finally sets down the traveler in Los Angeles, the metropolis of Southern California. Long Beach, the .\tlantic City of the West, is twenty miles from Los Angeles on the direct line to San Pedro Harbor. Pacific Coast terminus of the Salt Lake Route. 3 •4—) •OU tLi cs O W 4-> C3 _3 1— 1 -4-1 U K^; O • 4) ^y^ bS u r' U3 f-i - O - Eia Q£ t^"^ -«! 4> Qi C «= W3 o "> ^'i s u in ' 1^ 3 r Q^ o ■" 2 O ^i f-< TD S5 images, with maps and 48 pages of pictures. $1.50 net: postpaid, $1.63. IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON OF THE COLO- RADO RIVER IN ARIZONA. Mr. James' original and instruct- i\ e w ork on the Grand Can}on. 346 pages, with 23 full-page plates and 77 illustrations in the te.xt. Crown 8vo. $2.50 net : postpaid, $2.70. THE INDIANS OF THE PAINTED DESERT REGION. 2i.S pages, with 16 full-page pictures and 50 half-page ..lustrations from photographs. Crown 8vo. $2.00 net: postpaid, S2.18. IN AND OUT OF THE OLD MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA. .\n Historical and Pictorial Account of the I->anciscan Alissions. The best book on the subject. 392 pages, with 142 illustrations from photographs showing the architecture, the interior decora- tions, furniture, pulpits, crosses and candlesticks of the Missions, ])ictures of the Saints, etc. 8vo. $3.00 net : pristpaid. $3.21'. THE WONDERS OF THE COLORADO DESERT (Southern Cal- ifornia). Its River and its Mountains, its Canyons and its Springs, its Life and its History pictured and described. The standard work on the Colorado Desert region. With a ci:)lored frontispiece, 32 full-page plates, and more than 300 pen and ink sketches bv Carl Evtel. 8vo. $5.00 net : e.xpress paid. $5.45. THROUGH RAMONA'S COUNTRY. 406 pages. Fully illustrated from photographs. Crown 8vo. $2.00 net: postpaid. $2.20. THE STORY OF SCRAGGLES. .\n Autobiography of a Song S])arrow. llhistrated. 12mo. Cloth, $1.00 net : postpaid, $1.0/. INDIAN BASKETRY. Third Edition, including "How to make In- dian and Other Baskets. 412 pages. With 600 illustrations. 8vo. Cloth, $2.50 net: postpaid, $2.75. HOW TO MAKE INDIAN AND OTHER BASKETS. 140 pages. With 22? illustrations. $1.00 net: postpaid, $1.15. TRAVELER'S HANDBOOK TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. ISaedeker size f<.>r pocket. 507 pages, with illustrations. Ituno. Cloth. $1.00: postpaid, $1.10. WHAT THE WHITE RACE MAY LEARN FROM THE INDIAN. 269 pages. 84 illustrations. 8vo. Cloth, gilt top, $1.50: postpaid, $1.75. '" CALIFORNIA BIRTHDAY BOOK. Selections from the writings of Living California .Authors, with biographical sketch of each and lists of books. 430 pages. 16mo. Cloth, $1.00: postpaid, $1.10. AN APPRECIATION OF CHARLES WARREN STODDARD. With four choice selections from his writings. $1.00. Copies will always be autographed for those who desire and who order direct from the author George Wharton James, 1098 X. Ray- mond Ave., Pasadena, Cal. 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