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A Visit to Stanford University 
 
A VISIT TO STANFORD 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1905 
 BY 
 
 Mary Stewart Quelle 
 
 UNIVERSITY PRESS 
 
 STANFORD UNIVERSITY 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Twu Copies rtecuveu 
 
 MAY 15 iy05 
 
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Red roofs glowing in the sun, 
 
 Chapel chimes resounding, 
 Wide walls builded into one, 
 
 Arched arcades surrounding. 
 
 HERE we are at Palo Alto, and within a few 
 hundred yards of the entrance to the Uni- 
 versity grounds. You can see the arches 
 of the great stone gateway and one of the towers 
 with its red-tiled roof from the station. 
 
 Now for a carriage, — for the Quadrangle is a 
 good mile from the gate, and there is much 
 ground to be gone over during the day. 
 
 We will drive first to the Mausoleum, then go 
 on to the Museum, and so work around to the 
 Quadrangle. 
 
 That is the Memorial Arch at the end of the 
 avenue, with the top of the clock-tower above it. 
 
 Most of the trees on the low hills beyond are 
 live oaks, though there is quite a sprinkling of 
 white oaks, too. Black Mountain, that dark blue 
 shoulder to the left, is covered with chaparral, 
 and those tall trees on the long ridge over there 
 to the right are redwoods. 
 
 This grove on each side of the avenue is called 
 
 5 
 
the Arboretum. Senator Stanford had hundreds 
 of specimens from all over the world set out here. 
 The two varieties of palm, planted alternately 
 and lining the avenue all the way from the gate 
 to the oval, and round the oval to the Quad- 
 rangle, are the Canary date-palm and the Colo- 
 rado desert fan-palm. 
 
 The stone structure we are approaching now 
 is the Mausoleum, where Senator Stanford and 
 Leland Stanford Jr. lie, and this marble canopy 
 over the beautiful 
 figure of the Angel 
 of Grief was placed 
 here close to the 
 Mausoleum by 
 Mrs. Stanford in 
 memory of her 
 brother Henry. 
 
 There is some- 
 thing strangely 
 impressive about 
 the Mausoleum, — 
 the plain, granite 
 tomb set in the 
 green, standing all 
 alone among the trees. It seems fitting that 
 this should be the last resting place of the boy 
 Leland, and of the man who founded this great 
 University as a lasting memorial to that much- 
 loved son. 
 
Leland Stanford Jr. was born at Sacramento, 
 California, May 14, 1869, and died at Florence, 
 Italy, in 1884, of Roman fever. He was a 
 bright, affectionate and generous boy, wbo gave 
 great promise intellectually. After bis untimely 
 
 death, his parents, left childless and without an 
 heir, generously directed the use of their vast 
 wealth toward the advancement of young people 
 throughout the country, by the founding of 
 this University. The Deed of Foundation says : 
 " Since the idea of founding an institution of 
 this kind, for the benefit of mankind, came di- 
 rectly and largely from our son and only child, 
 Leland, and in the belief that if he had been 
 
 8 
 
spared to advise as to the disposition of our 
 estate he would have advised the devotion of a 
 large portion thereof to this purpose, we will 
 that for all 
 timetocome 
 the institu- 
 tion here- 
 by founded 
 shall bear 
 his name, 
 and shall be 
 known as 
 the Leland 
 Stan ford 
 Junior Uni- 
 versity." 
 
 Senator 
 Stanford 
 was born at 
 Watervliet, 
 near Al- 
 bany, N.Y., 
 March 9, 
 1824, ^^^ 
 died at his 
 home here 
 in Califor- 
 nia,June2i, 
 1893. At 
 twenty-two 
 
lie went to Albany to study law, and when lie 
 got through there went West with his young 
 wife and settled at Port Washington, Wisconsin. 
 He worked hard for four years, and then had 
 the seeming misfortune to be burned out, — lost 
 his library and everything else he owned. That 
 was in 1852, when the California fever was at 
 its height. As he had three brothers already 
 out here, he and Mrs. Stanford joined them. He 
 did well, and in eight years was worth a quar- 
 ter of a million. In i860 he was sent to Wash- 
 ington as a delegate to the convention that nom- 
 inated Lincoln ; and after the inauguration the 
 President had a number of consultations with 
 him concerning Pacific Coast affairs. 
 
 After leaving Washington he and Mrs. Stan- 
 ford visited Albany, intending to remain there if 
 they liked it. They decided in favor of Califor- 
 nia, however, and soon after their return Mr. 
 Stanford was nominated for governor by the new 
 Republican party. He was elected, as you know. 
 It was during his term of of&ce as governor of 
 California that he became interested in the project 
 of a transcontinental railway. It was a stupen- 
 dous undertaking, when one considers the almost 
 insurmountable difiS.culties to be contended with. 
 For twenty-five years he devoted himself to the 
 interests of the road — the Central Pacific — labor- 
 ing in its behalf with the energy and assiduity 
 characteristic of the man. In the meantime 
 
 10 
 
lie Had grown enormously wealthy. In 1885 
 lie was elected to the United States Senate, and 
 re-elected in 1891. 
 
 Senator Stanford had large ideas, with ample 
 means for carrying them out. He believed 
 thoroughly in a liberal, practical education, and 
 he wanted this to be a University which would be 
 of real, practical value to young men and women 
 who were working with a definite end in view. 
 He wished also to foster original investigation, 
 and above all to promote the spirit of freedom. 
 And where could one find a more suitable setting 
 for such a University than this wide Western 
 country, where everything is big and broad and 
 generous, and where "Freedom is in the air." 
 
 Beyond the Mausoleum is the Cactus Garden, 
 
and this road through the trees to the left will 
 take us to the Museum. 
 
 Leland Stanford Jr. was only eleven years old 
 when he began his European collection. His 
 great ambition was to found a museum, and the 
 building for this reason is named for him. His 
 private collection is kept in a room at the back 
 of the main building. The additions to the 
 Museum, which are now being erected, enclose 
 a large court at the back of the original building. 
 The continuous length of these buildings is 
 about six hundred and fifty feet. All the struc- 
 tures are two stories high, and are built of brick 
 faced with concrete. When finished this will 
 be the largest private museum in the country. 
 
 13 
 
Naturally Mrs. Stanford is deeply interested 
 in its enrichment, and she is constantly making 
 large and valuable additions to its collections. 
 
 The main front of the building is very fine, 
 
 with its broad steps, colossal columns, and beau- 
 tiful bronze doors. 
 
 The mosaics ornamenting the face of the 
 Museum are a curiosity in themselves. Copies 
 are first made of the original paintings by 
 an artist, and these copies are divided into 
 numbered sections. Then the glass from which 
 all Venetian mosaics are made is ordered in the 
 corresponding shades of color. The glass comes 
 from the factory in the shape of little squares 
 about a quarter of an inch thick. The workmen, 
 who are artists as well as artizans, fit the small 
 pieces of glass together, following the painting 
 
 15 
 
section by section, and chipping tlie pieces with 
 a Hammer over a wedge, when necessary, in order 
 to make them fit perfectly. When each repro- 
 duction is finished, all the little pieces of glass 
 having been pasted face down upon strong paper, 
 the sections, numbered to correspond to the plan 
 of the 
 paint- 
 ing, are 
 shipped 
 to this 
 country. 
 When 
 they are 
 received 
 here the 
 part of 
 the wall 
 intended 
 for the 
 mosaic 
 is cover- 
 ed with 
 
 cement, the sections are placed in position by the 
 Venetian workmen, the paper peeled off, and the 
 finished picture appears. 
 
 This large building with the many ventilators 
 on the roof is the Chemistry building. That on 
 our left, as we turn, is Roble Hall, the girls' dor- 
 mitory. Though a hundred girls can be accom- 
 
 17 
 
modated at Roble, there are always a number of 
 names on the waiting list. It is bright, home- 
 like and well managed. The dining-room is in 
 
 the same building, though under separate man- 
 agement. " Roble " means white oak. 
 
 The wooden structure behind and to the right 
 of Roble is the Girls' Gymnasium. In the rear 
 
 is the basket-ball 
 field, and in front 
 the tennis courts. 
 There are two 
 organizations in 
 connection with 
 women's athlet- 
 ics : the Roble 
 Gymnasium Club 
 whose members 
 
are chosen from among the best women gym- 
 nasts ; and the Women's Athletic Association, 
 which any woman interested in athletics may join. 
 
 Farther on, to the right of Roble Hall, is 
 President Jordan's residence, called Xazmin 
 House; ''Xazmin" is the Spanish for jasmine. 
 
 Turning to the left we drive up this shady 
 road, which brings us to the western entrance 
 of the Quadrangle. 
 
In 1884 Senator and Mrs. Stanford determined 
 to establish this University as a memorial to 
 their son. A special act of the legislature was 
 sought, and in November, 1885, the act of endow- 
 ment, embodying the charter of the institution, 
 and the gift of eighty thousand acres of land in 
 the rich valleys of California, was made public. 
 A board of twenty-four trustees was named, in 
 whom the management of the institution was 
 vested ; the number has since been changed to 
 ten. By the terms of the charter Senator and 
 Mrs. Stanford were, during their lives, to exer- 
 cise all the powers and privileges of the trustees. 
 In 1903, however, Mrs. Stanford, as surviving 
 founder, turned the management of the Univer- 
 sity over to the Board of Trustees ; they elected 
 her president of the board. 
 
 On May 14, 1887, the cornerstone of the 
 Inner Quadrangle was laid, and on October i, 
 1 89 1, the University was formally opened to 
 students. 
 
 Stanford University has an endowment of 
 $30,000,000, making it the richest of all Ameri- 
 can universities. By an amendment to the State 
 Constitution, passed by popular vote in 1900, the 
 University buildings and grounds were exempted 
 from taxation. 
 
 Tuition is free to all, but a registration fee of 
 ten dollars a semester is charged all those from 
 outside the State. 
 
 20 
 
The President of the University, Dr. David 
 Starr Jordan, a New Yorker by birth and a grad- 
 uate of Cornell, was called to his present posi- 
 
 tion in 1 89 1 from the University of Indiana, 
 where he had occupied the presidency with dis- 
 tinction since 1884. 
 
 21 
 
A young man himself, the first faculty chosen 
 by him was remarkable for the youthfulness of 
 its members. The number was at first limited 
 to fifteen ; but when the University opened with 
 over five hundred students, it was increased to 
 thirty. 
 
 The architectural motif of the buildings of the 
 Quadrangle is that of the Spanish missions — low 
 buildings with wide colonnades surrounding an 
 open court. The original plans were drawn by 
 the famous American architect, H. H. Richard- 
 son, of Boston. 
 
 Leaving the carriage and crossing a small 
 outer court, we pass through the west gate and 
 
 enter the Inner Quadrangle. The floor of this 
 spacious court, 586 feet in length by 246 feet 
 
 22 
 
in width, was originally covered with, asphal- 
 tum, but afterwards it was thought best to cover 
 this with coarse gravel. 
 
 In the early days of the institution, before the 
 Inner Quadrangle was bisected by wide cement 
 
 walks, and before the gravel was laid, bicycles 
 were stacked two and three deep along the ar- 
 cades, and students awheel and on foot scurried 
 about to and from their class-rooms in all direc- 
 tions, or sat hobnobbing on the low stone curb- 
 ing of the big circular flower-beds, while others 
 occupied chairs set under the tall shrubs inside. 
 Though wheeling is no longer allowed within 
 the Quadrangle, on occasion the church clock 
 looks down on a transformed "Quad," as on the 
 night of a football rally, when the men, lock- 
 ing arms, dance the serpentine up and down the 
 
 23 
 
wide, white walks; or when, after the celebration 
 of the "Plug Ugly," the upper-classmen scuffle 
 through the arcades, while the Seniors 
 try to smash the Juniors' 
 new ' plugs,' 
 
 for the tall 
 
 gray hat, often fantas- 
 tically decorated, is the 
 distinctive headgear of the Junior Class, 
 as the sombrero is that of the Senior, at Stanford. 
 
 On the night of the Promenade Concert, dur- 
 ing Commencement Week, the scene is like one 
 
 ,r3 from fairyland. Many-colored Japanese 
 
 '^ lanterns are strung along 
 
 the arcades, 
 
 
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 ■:-> 
 
 «stl?\ 
 
 lights swing 
 above the ^'"^"^ 
 band-stand, pretty recep- 
 tion-booths with plants^and bright hangings fill 
 the corners of the arcades, and groups of people 
 linger near the music or saunter around the court. 
 
 25 
 
The Memorial Cliurcli, the architectural con- 
 ception of which is a combination of the Moorish 
 and the Romanesque, is cruciform in shape, and 
 measures 190 feet in length, 156 feet in width, 
 190 feet to the tip of the gilded cross, and 106 
 feet to the fullest height of the dome : the seating 
 capacity being seventeen hundred. The clock 
 
 and chimes in the tower, — which strike the 
 hour, the half-hour, and the quarter-hour, — are 
 the duplicate of the Westminster chimes in the 
 clock on the Houses of Parliament in London. 
 
 That is more of the mosaic work covering 
 the upper part of the front, representing the 
 Sermon on the Mount, — it is a wonderful 
 piece of work. The inscription chiseled in 
 
 26 
 
the stone below reads : '' Memorial Cliurcli, 
 Erected to the Glory of God and in Loving Mem- 
 ory of my Husband, Leland Stanford." Neither 
 
 time nor money has been spared in the beauti- 
 fying of this magnificent memorial, the offering 
 of a devout woman, a loving wife. 
 
 27 
 
The ten bronze squares, set in the floor of the 
 arcade before the church, the first marked '95, 
 the last '04, are the "Class Plates." Each suc- 
 ceeding Senior Class places one there, holding a 
 little ceremony over it, on Class Day during 
 Commencement Week. 
 
 The soft texture of the buff sandstone, of 
 which the church is built, makes possible the 
 
 intricate and lacy carving surrounding windows, 
 arches and columns, and which is so largely em- 
 ployed in the interior decoration as well. 
 
 Within, from the Moorish tiled floor to the 
 groined oaken ceiling, the design and symmetry 
 are perfect. The four wide Roman arches, meas- 
 uring fifty-two feet across, resting on four great 
 
 28 
 
pillars, support tlie beautiful dome. From these 
 arclies spring a cove ceiling, ornamented with 
 the figures of angels in mosaic ; above the cove 
 ceiling is a gilded railing, and a circle of tAventy- 
 four exquisitely colored windows. Above these 
 again is the top of the dome, spangled with stars. 
 Standing below, gaze up into the beauty, the 
 richness of the whole ! 
 
 Before us gleams the apse with its white mar- 
 ble altar, and the three great allegorical ^^indows, 
 with figures of the prophets, of heroic size, in 
 mosaic above them, and marble statues of the 
 twelve apostles, in gilded niches, below. 
 
 The mosaic over the altar is a reproduction of 
 the "Last Supper," the original of which, paint- 
 ed by 
 Cosimo 
 Roselli 
 in the 
 fifteenth 
 century, 
 is in the 
 Sistine 
 Chapel, 
 atRome. 
 There is 
 said to 
 
 be no other copy of this work. Permission was 
 given Mrs. Stanford to have the picture repro- 
 duced in mosaic out of consideration for her 
 
 
 30 
 
gifts to the Catholic 
 church. 
 
 That fine bas-re- 
 lief on the altar is 
 a copy of a paint- 
 ing by Rubens — 
 "The Entomb- 
 ment." 
 
 To the left, 
 against the great 
 east pillar of the 
 chancel, stands the 
 beautiful pulpit, of 
 carved stone ; and 
 on the opposite side is the lectern — the figure of 
 an angel, in bronze. 
 Covering the 
 wall spaces of the 
 nave, above and 
 between the beau- 
 tiful stained glass 
 windows, are more 
 mosaics, portray- 
 ing most graphi- 
 cally scenes from 
 the OldTestament. 
 Below the win- 
 dows on the lower 
 wall space all 
 around the church texts are chiseled in the stone. 
 
 31 
 
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The organ gallery is above the vestibule, and 
 contains seats for a choir of one hundred and 
 fifty. The great organ, which is said to have the 
 finest front ever made, is divided, one half being 
 on each side of the loft, with the three-manual 
 console facing the choir. The keys have elec- 
 trical connection with the pipes. There are forty- 
 six stops, thirty miles of wire, and over three 
 thousand pipes. 
 
 The beautiful window which lights the organ- 
 loft is the Memorial Rosette. The artist is said 
 to have worked for more than six months on the 
 design alone. 
 
 The color scheme of the church interior is 
 rarely beautiful — the sombre buff of the stone- 
 
 34 
 
work, the dull tints of the many mosaics, throw- 
 ing into strong relief the wonder fully'rich color- 
 ing of the pictorial win- 
 dows through which 
 streams the golden sun- 
 shine of California. 
 
 Leaving the church 
 we turn to the south. 
 The Engineering De- 
 partment occupies the 
 building to our left, on 
 the southeast corner oi 
 the Outer Quadrangle ; 
 and the Department of 
 Geology and Mining, 
 and the Art Depart- 
 
ment, the opposite corner. Of the row of build- 
 ings at the back, on higher ground and separated 
 from the Quadrangle by a retaining-wall, that 
 long stone building at the extreme left is the 
 Mechanical Engineering laboratory and engine- 
 next that is the boiler-house, and the 
 
 room 
 
 University power-house ; beyond is the Machine 
 shop ; and in the second row are the Woodwork- 
 ing shop and Pattern shop in one building, the 
 Blacksmith shop and Foundry in the other. 
 Behind these is the old Art building; to the 
 right are the bookstore and the drugstore ; and 
 farther on, to the left, is the printing-office. 
 
 The big chimney of the boiler-house, which is 
 one hundred and twenty feet high, was quite a 
 landmark before the church was built. 
 
This triple arch with pointed roof, opposite 
 the church, is the main entrance to the Inner 
 Quadrangle. Within the arcade are the official 
 
 bulletin-boards, and here the voting for student 
 body elections usually takes place. In the 
 building to the left are the offices of the Presi- 
 dent and the Registrar. Beyond is the large 
 corner room used as chapel before the erection 
 of the church. The walls of the chapel were 
 hung with a number of beautiful copies of the 
 old masters, but most of these are now in the 
 Museum. 
 
 The building to the right of the triple arch 
 was used for the Library before the Outer Quad- 
 rangle was built ; it is now occupied by the Law 
 Department. 
 
 39 
 
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 The space between the triple arcli and the Me- 
 morial Arch is the Memorial Court. The group 
 of statuary in the center of the court represents 
 the Senator and Mrs. Stanford and Leland Stan- 
 ford Jr, Set into the outer wall of the arcade, 
 on the left, is a tablet to the honor of those Stan- 
 
 40 
 
ford students who fought in the Philippines. 
 These are some fine specimens of ancient Jap- 
 anese bronzes on the four stone pedestals at the 
 corners of the court. 
 
 The Memorial Arch, lOO feet in height by 86 
 feet in width, is the largest of its kind in Amer- 
 ica, and second only to the Arc de Triomph, in 
 Paris, which is the largest in the world. St. 
 Gaudens made the model for the frieze and fur- 
 nished the description, and Rupert Schmid exe- 
 cuted the design, which represents the Progress 
 of Civilization in America. 
 
 The female figure in the middle of the north 
 side is Civilization; Providence is on the left; 
 Columbus taking his mission from Providence 
 tears the veil from America, standing between 
 the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn; Pizarro 
 and Cortez appear mounted, tearing down the 
 idolatry of ancient America and preparing the 
 way for Christianity. 
 
 On the northwest corner of the Arch is the 
 chief Aztec divinity, and on the west end Las 
 Casas preaching Christianity to the Indians; 
 Liberty protecting Religion, and the Pilgrims 
 landing at Plymouth, and after them the figure 
 of Wisdom. All this has treated of the discovery 
 of the New World ; now we have to do with the 
 United States. 
 
 Washington and two generals on horseback 
 head the march of the Thirteen States. This 
 
 41 
 

 
 I 
 
 figure in the center of the frieze, on the south side, 
 represents Columbia, or the United States. On 
 her right is Abundance, pointing westward. This 
 group represents Grazing — the god Pan, and 
 Ceres with mowers and reapers. Mining, on this 
 
 42 
 
corner, a cyclops ; Electricity, with the Leyden 
 jar; Steam, with boiler and fire; the Sciences, 
 Philosophy, Medicine and Mathematics ; and Mi- 
 nerva, with a bear at her side, representing Cali- 
 fornia. Round in front again, we have Titans 
 holding up the Mountains. Here the Railroad 
 is depicted, with Senator and Mrs. Stanford on 
 horseback, and the genius of Engineering super- 
 intending the work. 
 
 These buildings on the right, as we face the 
 Arch, are occupied by the Departments of Nat- 
 ural Science — Zoology, Physiology, Botany and 
 Physics. On the left are the Assembly Hall, 
 Library, and History building. The Assembly 
 Hall has a seating capacity of seventeen hundred. 
 
The Library building, the gift of Senator Stan- 
 ford's brother, Thomas Welton Stanford, of Mel- 
 bourne, Australia, and completed in 1900, was 
 the initial building of the Outer Quadrangle. 
 
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 It now contains nearly 90,000 volumes. Although 
 comparatively new it is almost outgrown, and 
 within a short time will be entirely inadequate. 
 The quarters of the Law Library, in the Inner 
 Quadrangle, are also cramped, and the present 
 Library building will be used for this department 
 when the new structure is finished. 
 
 Work is progressing rapidly on the new Li- 
 brary building to the right of the northern, or 
 front, facade of the Outer Quadrangle. This 
 building will be three stories high, with a deep 
 
 46 
 
4 
 
spacious basement ; tlie front will be nearly 
 three hundred and fifty feet long. It will be 
 semi-fireproof. 
 
 In the center will be a circular reading-room 
 seventy-five feet in diameter ; at the rear will be 
 the stack, semicircular in form, whose capacity 
 will be about eight hundred and fifty thousand 
 volumes. Elsewhere there will be accommoda- 
 tion for one hundred and fifty thousand volumes, 
 making the total capacity one million. There 
 will also be rooms devoted solely to some of the 
 more important collections, such as the Hopkins 
 Railroad Library, the Thomas Welton Stanford 
 Australian Library, the Hildebrand Collection, 
 and others. 
 
 In all the arrangements the best features of 
 the different college and general libraries of the 
 world will be combined, and it is hoped within a 
 reasonable time to build up a library that will 
 be the best of any college in the United States. 
 
 The large building beyond is the men's new 
 Gymnasium. It is three stories high, with an 
 entrance faced by Corinthian columns. On the 
 first floor are the bowling-alleys, and space for 
 other games. The main hall is on the second 
 floor, with a gallery all round for spectators. 
 There are swimming-tanks, shower-baths, dress- 
 ing-rooms, handball courts, fencing, boxing and 
 wrestling rooms, a general assembly hall, and a 
 ball-room. 
 
 48 
 
With regard to athletics at Stanford, Dr. Jor- 
 dan says: "So far as the University is con- 
 cerned its attitude is to encourage athletic sports, 
 — football, baseball, tennis, and the rest. . . . 
 As a rule those men who have been athletes 
 in college have never regretted the time the}^ 
 have spent on it, if their training has been 
 wisely carried on. A great many of the ablest 
 men now in college work were college athletes. 
 
 The men who, in the long run, accom- 
 plish results are men whose bodies are healthy 
 and well-trained, and may be relied upon to 
 furnish the vital force for the mental machin- 
 ery by which work is conducted. The pale stu- 
 dent of former times is passing away, and the 
 intellectual life of the future will be carried on 
 by men who have bodies as well as brains. For 
 now-a-days demand on the brain is so great that 
 it must have the body behind it." 
 
 50 
 
In the field beyond the new Gymnasinm is the 
 Facnlty Club-house. It is not much of a build- 
 ing, — merely a 
 rustic cottage, in 
 fact. The dia- 
 mond and the 
 tennis courts are 
 close by. 
 
 Just across the road, to the east of the Quad- 
 rangle, is the Stanford Inn. After the discon- 
 tinuance of the dining-room at Encina Hall it 
 was necessary to provide an eating place for the 
 large 
 n u m- 
 ber of 
 
 this requirement, as well as to accommodate the 
 general public. 
 
 The collection of buildings to the southeast of 
 the Outer Quadrangle are residences. Some of 
 them are occupied by professors and their fami- 
 lies ; quite a number are owned by fraternities ; 
 
 51 
 
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and there are two large private boarding-liouses 
 — Madrono Hall and Mariposa. 
 
 The three streets are Alvarado row, Salva- 
 tierra street, and Lasnen street — named for noted 
 Spaniards. In the snmmer' time the Campus, 
 with its trim lawns, white cement walks, and 
 shade trees, lies like an oasis, cool and green, 
 surrounded by sun-baked fields, backed by brown 
 oak-crowned hills. 
 
 That small concrete building with tiled roof, 
 on Lasuen street, is the University Post-office, 
 

 r 
 
and the open field between it and the printing- 
 office is where the old ''Camp" nsed to stand. 
 When the first University buildings were in 
 course of construction two long, rough, one- 
 story wooden structures, at right angles to each 
 other, were run up to accommodate the workmen. 
 When the work was over these were vacated by 
 the men and were then taken possession of by a 
 number of students who had small allowances, 
 or who wanted to work their way through col- 
 lege. There was always a student in charge of 
 the place, who was responsible for the order, 
 cleanliness, and so on, and the room-rent was 
 paid to him. A Chinaman kept a restaurant, 
 where good, plain meals could be had cheap; 
 and there were eating clubs there, too, some- 
 times. But a good many of the boys 'bached' 
 — two in a room usually — and they managed 
 the cooking between them. Some of the most 
 prominent fellow^s in college were Camp men. 
 
It was an institution peculiar to Stanford Uni- 
 versity, and it would, perhaps, have been possi- 
 ble nowhere else. 
 
 Student labor is one of the features of Stanford 
 life. A number of the young men earn their board 
 by waiting on table. Those who do not care to 
 work for their board get twenty cents an hour for 
 house-cleaning, or gardening; while good me- 
 chanics of any sort are always in demand, and 
 are well paid for their work. Some girls, too, 
 work their way through, by doing housework, 
 sewing, typewriting, or teaching. 
 
 This wooden building half-way between the 
 residences and Encina Hall is the men's gym- 
 
 nasium ; and that high board fence beyond the 
 tennis courts encloses the football oval. 
 
 Encina Hall, the young men's dormitory — 
 
 60 
 
^'Encina" means oak — will accommodate three 
 hundred students. At first they were boarded 
 in the building — there is a handsome dining- 
 room on the first floor and a kitchen in the base- 
 ment — but this plan did not prove a feasible one. 
 At the present time the dining-room is used as a 
 club-room. All the men in the Hall are entitled 
 to belong to this club ; the dues pay for the mag- 
 azines and an occasional entertainment. They 
 
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 have stag dances here, too, sometimes, and foot- 
 ball rallies. 
 
 The Hall, which was one of the first buildings 
 finished, was full when the University opened in 
 the fall of 1 89 1. At that time the nearest post- 
 ofiice was at Mayfield, and the mail for the Uni- 
 versity was brought by private carrier from 
 Menlo Park. There were only one or two houses 
 
 62 
 
in Palo Alto, and only four trains a day, and 
 they liad to be flagged ! It seemed like settling 
 up a new country away off somewhere, a hun- 
 dred miles from civilization. Yet those were 
 happy days for everyone, with no thought of 
 breakers ahead. 
 
 Things went along all right for the first two 
 years, and then the Senator died. That was the 
 beginning of hard times for the institution. Sen- 
 ator Stanford's estate was tied up in the courts; 
 the University had no ready money of its own ; 
 its endowments brought in nothing; and at that 
 time, also, the country was in financial distress. 
 Then Mrs. Stanford came to the rescue, and all 
 through the dreary time of uncertainty when 
 the Government suit was on, and afterwards up 
 to the time the endowment was effected, kept the 
 coffers filled from her own private purse. 
 
 And now how royally has the University been 
 endowed — thirty millions of dollars — the rich- 
 est educational institution in the country. With 
 youth and wealth, what a future lies before ! 
 
 Prior to the establishment of the University a 
 Frenchman named Peter Coutts owned fourteen 
 hundred acres of this land, and Senator Stanford 
 bought it of him for $114,000. When the Univer- 
 sity opened, Mr. Coutt's residence — Escondite 
 cottage — was occupied by Dr. Jordan. It was 
 he who named it "Escondite," which means con- 
 cealment. 
 
 64 
 
Coutts put up a number of large stables, for 
 lie kept a lot of very fine cattle — Ayrshire and 
 Holstein. Several of tbem bave been pulled 
 down, tbougb, lately. Here Senator Stanford 
 bad tbe Running Farm for a wbile. That odd- 
 looking two-story brick building was used as tbe 
 Psychology laboratory before the completion of 
 tbe Outer Quadrangle, — tbe Frenchman had 
 used it for his library and as a school-room for 
 his children. 
 
 If the gate on the back road is open we can 
 drive round by the lake — " Frenchman's Lake " 
 as it is called. The Frenchman planted the 
 pines and spruce trees along the crest of those 
 low hills. He is said to have intended building 
 
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a house on tlie top of the last hill to the left. He 
 ran a tunnel quite a way under the hill nearest 
 the lake, besides others farther back in the hills ; 
 and built a big, round brick tower, probably in- 
 tended for a reservoir, a mile or so from here. 
 
 Here is the lake, as usual nearly dry ! There 
 was a lot of useless work done here, too. It must 
 have taken time and money to build this solid 
 stone wall around the three sides, as well as the 
 artificial island opposite. That double row of 
 poplars looks quite French, as does the quaint 
 little bridge in the background. 
 
 Peter Coutts is said to have been a fine look- 
 ing man, with white hair, good features and dark 
 eyes. He was an eccentric old fellow, but noth- 
 
 67 
 
ing very definite is known about him. There is 
 a story of his having been a refugee, living in 
 this country under an assumed name, and of his 
 having been taken back to France. 
 
 That line of water between us and the hills on 
 the opposite side of the Santa Clara Valley is San 
 Francisco Bay. It does not reach quite as far as 
 San Jose, but ends in marshes at a place called 
 Alviso, four miles away. The gleaming white 
 dome of the Lick Observatory can be seen crown- 
 ing Mt. Hamilton across the valley to the right. 
 
 This long white house on the hillside, just 
 above the Campus, was built by Mr. G. B. Cook- 
 sey, but it is now University property. 
 
 Following the road along the foot of the hills, 
 we come presently to Lagunita, which, like 
 
'^t^- =ic;-^-{i 
 
 
 Frenchman's Lake, contains water only during 
 part of the year. It generally fills up early in 
 the winter, and then the students commence 
 systematic practice for the rowing events in the 
 spring. That is the boat-house on the north 
 bank. Some students are living there, and they 
 call it 'Villa de Lagunita.' 
 
 The large house on the hill above the lake is 
 the private residence of Mr. Charles Lathrop, 
 Mrs. Stanford's brother, who is treasurer of the 
 Board of Trustees and business manager of the 
 University. The view from there is very exten- 
 sive. On a clear day the ferry-boats can be seen 
 
crossing the Bay between San Francisco and Oak- 
 land. 
 
 Driving on past the lake we reach the Stock 
 Farm. This was the home of the great Elec- 
 
 tioneer. His monument stands in the little 
 enclosure where many of his illustrious descend- 
 ants lie buried ; but his skeleton is set up in the 
 Museum. Electioneer died in 1890. By 1892 
 every trotting record in the world was held by 
 his sons and daughters. Palo Alto, the Sena- 
 tor's favorite, made the stallion trotting record 
 to a high-wheeled sulky, of 2:08^. Waxana 
 trotted a mile to a high-wheeled sulky in 2:08^, 
 which has been a world's record never since 
 broken. The Abbott trotted a mile in 2:03^; 
 only one trotting horse in the world has ever 
 beat that, Croesus, ' King of Trotters.' 
 
 71 
 
^ 
 
Senator Stanford started the farm in '77 with 
 the idea of establishing a long string of thorough- 
 bred trotting horses. Beginning with only forty 
 
 or fifty, in '93, the year the Senator died, there 
 were thirteen hundred and fifty horses here and 
 at the branch at Vina Ranch. The development 
 was discontinued in '96, and no entries have been 
 made in the races since '98. 
 
 The Stock Farm is still one of the most attrac- 
 
 tive spots about here — so pretty and peaceful, 
 and everything in such perfect order. 
 
 73 
 
A small, wHite, gable-roofed House facing tlie 
 old track was brought around the Horn in the 
 '50's. At that time there were no saw-mills in 
 this part of the country. Afterwards a man by 
 the name of Ed Gallagher established a couple 
 of lumber camps over toward Searsville. There 
 were plenty of big redwoods there and on the 
 
 mountain sides in those days. Over a hundred 
 men were employed ripping out lumber with 
 whip-saws and hauling it down to Redwood City 
 for shipment, by water, to San Francisco; and 
 four men were kept busy all the time packing 
 deer down the mountain for the two camps. 
 
 Skirting the western end of the race track, and 
 crossing the road beyond, we reach the field 
 where stands part of the old adobe tavern, the 
 'Doubling-up Station,' as it was called, because 
 
 74 
 
they used to double-up the loads of lumber there : 
 a single load would be brought from the hills to 
 this point, where two hill-loads were put together 
 and hauled to San Jose, twenty miles to the 
 southeast. 
 
 This road after crossing the field follows the 
 steep winding banks of the San Francisquito 
 Creek, and leads up to the beautifully kept 
 grounds surrounding the Stanford residence. 
 The house is set back among some fine old trees. 
 It is not a modern building, — in fact is quite an 
 old place, as it was built in '63 by a wealthy 
 San Francisco business man, an Englishman 
 named Gordon, who called the place 'Mayfield 
 
^-— ^ 
 
 Grange,' and who laid out Eucalyptus avenue. 
 He died in 1869, and Senator Stanford bought 
 tHe place in the following year. The house has 
 been altered considerably since. Gertrude Ath- 
 erton has written a book called "The Daughter 
 of the Vine" which deals with the tragic history 
 of the Gordon family, and some of the scenes are 
 
 laid there. 
 Though an 
 air of silence 
 and sadness 
 pervades the 
 place, now 
 and again the 
 old house has 
 opened wide 
 its doors in 
 warm welcome to the many adopted sons and 
 daughters of the dearly-loved mistress, either 
 
 76 
 
when generously bidden by ber, tbey bave 
 danced on tbe lawn, or feasted indoors, or wben 
 at otber times tbey bave gathered voluntarily to 
 give ber, after some long absence, a bearty wel- 
 come bome. 
 
 77 
 
 LofC. 
 
Having made a detour the road once more fol- 
 lows tHe liigli bank of tlie creek and brings us 
 
 presently to the private entrance gate on the 
 county road between Menlo Park and Palo Alto. 
 Directly before us, above the oaks, appears the 
 top of the Palo Alto, the tall redwood from which 
 the Stanford estate receives its name. Originally 
 there were two trees growing very close together, 
 
 78 
 
and exactly the same height; one was washed 
 away, so a bulwark has been built around the 
 bank to protect this one. These two trees were 
 known to the Spaniards as the ' Palos Colorados,' 
 or red trees. They towered far above the live 
 oaks, which covered the valley, and on a clear day 
 could be seen from San Jose, twenty miles to the 
 south, or from Rincon Hill in San Francisco, 
 thirty miles north. They narrowly escaped 
 being cut down by the lumbermen more than 
 once in those early days. 
 
 Turning to the right and traveling for half a 
 mile along the county road we reach the main 
 gateway to the grounds through which we passed 
 this morning. Another turn and we are at the 
 station once more. 
 
 Tree tops dark against the blue, 
 
 Tiled towers o'ershading, 
 While we wave adieu ! adieu ! 
 
 All are fading, fading. 
 
Hn flDemor? of fiDre* Stanfor& 
 
 Jane Lathrop Stanford was born August 25, 
 1828, at Albany, N. Y., and died at Honolulu, 
 Hawaii, February 28, 1905. 
 
 In 1850 she married Leland Stanford, a young 
 lawyer of Albany, and shortly after accompanied 
 him to Port Washington, Wisconsin, where they 
 made their home. 
 
 Afterwards, in 1852, Leland Stanford went to 
 California, and Mrs. Stanford followed in 1856, 
 having made the journey by the Nicaragua route. 
 Thereafter the greater part of her life was spent 
 in this state, and here she elected eventually to 
 end her days. 
 
 When by the death of her husband in 1893 
 Mrs. Stanford was left to bear alone cares and 
 responsibilities which would have weighed heav- 
 ily on a strong man, never for a moment did she 
 flinch or falter. With a clear head, a steady 
 hand, and a strong heart she guided the varying 
 fortunes of the new-born University, and lived 
 to see its future assured, its place in the fore- 
 most ranks secure. 
 
 After the news of her sudden death at Hono- 
 lulu had reached California, flags on government 
 and private buildings were placed at half-mast. 
 
 83 
 
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A month of mourning was observed by tbe 
 University, during wbich all student activities 
 of a social nature ceased ; every day during tbis 
 time messages of condolence and regret were re- 
 ceived from all over tbe country — from all over 
 the world, for all honored and revered the brave 
 woman who had worked so courageously, so de- 
 votedly, for the cause so near her heart. 
 
 On Friday, March the 24th, 1905, the simply 
 impressive funeral ceremony took place in the 
 stately Memorial Church, where were gathered 
 state officials. University officers, alumni and 
 students, as well as representatives from the 
 many charitable organizations Mrs. Stanford 
 had befriended. After the services all followed 
 the flower-covered bier on foot to the marble 
 tomb beneath the oaks. 
 
 And now, beside husband and son, in the 
 beautiful Mausoleum, lies all that was mortal of 
 Jane Lathrop Stanford, yet her staunch spirit 
 lives among us still. 
 
 "She was the mother of the University, the 
 kindest of helpers, the truest of friends, the 
 wisest, sanest and most generous of all who have 
 given of their abundance to the cause of learn- 
 ing. Her life has given the University a rich- 
 ness of personality, a wealth of sweet remem- 
 brance that shall not die away in all the 
 centuries." 
 
 85 
 
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