Kindergarten Material in Prinnary Schools— How to Use It. Reed and Raffia Construction Work In Primary Schools A Practical Manual Especially for Primary- Kindergarten Teachers. WITH MANY ICLIJSTRATIO^'S' By MARY A' SHUI^T^ Copyright 1904, by J. H. Shults, rianistee, flich. Manistee, Michigan. AMERICAN KINDERGARTEN SUPPLY HOUSE. J. H. Shui^TS, Proprietor. LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received JAN 23 1904 \ Copyright Entry CLASS CL XXc. No. :::i Preface This work oonstltutes one of a series now issued or soon to be pubilshecl upon ili© use of kindergarten material in primsry echools, The purpose of the author and publisher is to aid in bringing about the best possible kinderjgrarten tralninif In primary ichools. While the use of this material hai rapidly incraaeed within the last few yeara, thus far there has been an almoit total ab" sence of literature along this line, While the regular klndc^rgartena are doing most worthy work, yet their operations are limited to the comparative few, Probably 9S per cent of the children of America will receive their flret traltiin^ outelde the home in primary Bchoola, and while the establishment of res:ular kindergartens everywhere is always to be encouraiged, in the meantime let us labor to make the best possible and only available substitute— tb@ primary fachoQl— a place where at least some of the ad vantages of kinder- jgarten training can be secured, The teacher will understand that the primary purpose of all the kindergtarten gift^ and occupations is the development of the physical* mentali and moral faculties of the child, and not the construction of objects, etc, While it is probably true* that no child can construct a form new to him svithout developing hi« ^opacity for construction, yet a much ^ruater development will rewuit it" the leagoni are properly conducted. In order to (aecwre the bes*t tlevelopment, the child f^shotild be helped by hints and sug^e»tion«a, rather than by direct in^truetirtn, He should be eneciuvased to think and act for himself, and to overcome the difiicuUiesi whieii he encounters, iijui*f4. vvhenever poi^^ihle, Thi^. however, lahould not be carrieii ,".. fiir hh to lead the child to beconie dl^couffiifed or cU^iiutisned bow knot, the ends being neatly wound with raffia or finished with small tassels of same. After sewing or pasting on the back a loop made of two or three blades of raffia, the picture will be com- pleted ready to hang on the wall. Another method of fastening the suspension loop to the back is as follows : From heavy paper cut a back to fit the frame. Half-way between the center and the top cut a slit, slip the loop of raffia through the slit, and paste down smooth on opposite side. Then paste the paper down evenly on the back of the frame and the picture is ready to hang up. To make a neat and pretty box, use a strip of card- 14 board about ten or twelve inches long and two inches wide. Lap the ends and sew flatly. Wrap it closely around with raffia 'This forms the sides of the box. For the cover and the bottom cut a piece of cardboard to fit and make as for picture frames, only making the opening smaller, which may be afterwards darned or woven. Stripes of colored raffia may be used in sides and cover. The bottom is to be sewed in and the cover fastened by a few stitches. After the pupils have mastered the plain winding they will be ready to undertake winding in connection with the buttonhole stitch. This can be practiced best on a ring two inches or more in diameter. One of the Eleventh Gift will answer, or preferably one made by first soaking a hardwood slat of the Ninth Gift, or a piece of flat reed in water until flexible, and forming in the shape of a hoop, lapping the ends and tying securely. Fasten the end of a single blade of raffia to the ring or hoop and holding it where tied, between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, with the right, put the loose end of the raffia through the ring to the left and after drawing the blade nearly through, bring the end back over the ring and down through the loop thus formed, drawing close. Continue around the ring in the same manner till covered (see illustration). 15 This is a simple process, pro-bably familiar to every teacher, and is easily learned by the pupil, but requires considerable practice before the child will be able to draw the knots equally tight each time, which is neces- sary in order that the work may present a neat appear- ance. Two of the smaller rings may be sewed to- gether neatly through the twisted stitches, forming 2. napkin ring or fastened together in forms as in ring laying. A pretty little box may be made of three buttonholed hoops by 'buttonholing the plain edge, also, of one, and sewing the others on either side, putting the plain edge out and sewing together through the twisted stitches. The center hoop may be colored and a bot- tom and cover made as previously described. After having learned to make the buttonhole stitch correctly in this way give the pupils a needle and let them put a buttonhole finish on such of the round picture frames as were made without notched edges, or on other similar work. Beginning this work run the needle through a little back from the edge so as to hide the knot and bring it out at the extreme edge of the mat; put the needle through from the underside about one-fourth inch back from the edge. Proceed as directed with the hoop, but taking the stitches about one-fourth inch apart. For this purpose use raffia of a contrasting color. • 16 Cross Stitch. — What Is known as a double overcast or cross stitch makes a very satisfactory finish for an i^dge, and is easily learned by the children. Insert the needle about three-eighths of an inch from the edge, and sew over and over, taking the stitches about one- half inch apart and keeping them of an even slant. After sewing once around, use another blade of har- monizing color and sew around in the opposite direc- tion, inserting the needle in the same holes. SQUARE PICTURE FRAME. Take eight splints, each five inches long, place two together, ends even and insert the end of a third one between, holding so as to form a right angle. Sew through the three together with needle threaded with a slender strip of raffia. Wind once around, place fourth strip under third and take another stitch through the four and then wdnd a few times around the corner and tie and tuck ends of knot between the splints. This forms one corner of frame ; make the other three cor- ners the same way. Thread the needle with long strand of raffia, sew through one corner, winding, leav- ing one inch of end of strand projecting, which should be tucked between the splints ; hold frame towards the body and the outer edge to be worked away or up and buttO'nhole stitch across, pushing stitches close together and holding each stitch between to a uniform width of three-quarter inch. After making this a child would be able to make a buttonhole in a garment. The teacher can doubtless invent other ways of winding the raffia to produce decorative work, and we will next consider articles made from braided raffia and begin with lessons in braiding, commencing with 17 the simplest work, which consists of three-Stfand braid- ing-, each strand a single blade of raffia. Select three stands of uniform size so far as pos- sible, tie the larg-er or butt end of the raffia with a loop knot, slip this over the screw-hook above referred to. For first lessons the pupils may not be able to handle the raffia in full length, and in such case it should be cut in two. Braid as shown by Fig. 3 This exercise can be continued at short intervals for several days. At first the work will appear rough and uneven and much of it should be unbraided and done over again. After the pupils can braid evenly with three single strands, the work of constructing the mat may be com- menced in accordance with the instructions given be- low or the pupils may be taught to braid with three 18 strands, each of which consists of two blades of raffia (Fig. 4), or they may be taught four or five-strand braiding (Figs. 5 and 6). MAT OF SEWED BRAIDED RAFFIA, Beginning the work of constructing this mat for the first lesson, we will select the five-strand braid, or, if it ks desired to commence the work of construction before the pupils have learned the five-strand braiding, let them braid together three braids of single-blade braid- ing of sufficient length to complete the mat Take a No. 19 tapestry needle, select a small blade of rafiia and thread the needle with same. Pass the end of the threaded rafiia two or three times around the looped end of the braided rafiia and tie if necessary to make it secure. Then cut off the loop and begin winding the braid round and round, face to face, not edge to edge, as can be noticed by the illustration (Fig. 8). When three or four times around, i. e., when three or four layers have been wound on evenly, insert 19 the needle In the top of the first layer and pass it slantingly down through each of the other layers left- ward, bringing the needle out at bottom of last layer, Reinsert the needle at point of last divergence, passing it upward so as to come out on the upper edge of the first layer, but about one-half inch leftward, thus form- ing a V-shaped stitch through the layers. Reinsert the needle again from the point where brought out, and thus continue until the sewing is completed entirely around. Then wind on three ar four additional layers of the braided raffia and sew as before. Thus continue until the mat is of the desired size. An oval mat can be constructed in the same manner, except when start- ing from the center an oblong instead of a circular form should be maintained. These mats will be quite thick, but after the children have become more accus- tomed to the work they can sew the three-blade braid- ing, thus making a thinner and perhaps more satisfac- tory mat. If the work of sewing is found too hard for first grade pupils it should be done by the older ones. The work can be accompanied by a talk from the teacher relative to the various purposes for which braiding is used, the different methods of sewing, as by machines and otherwise, the importance of the art of sewing, etc. To economize time the third and fourth grade pupils may be required to listen to the talks and reproduce the substance in their written language work for the day. Raffia Wnrr — P.obably the simplest work that can be done with braided raffia will be the making of a whip. Take two oieces of braided raffia, one fifteen inches in length and the other eight inches. Fold the 20 shorter piece m the center and place the larger end of the longer piece between the two ends of tlie shorter far enough up to leave a loop about one inch m length. Fasten all together by winding the entire length (ex- cept the loop) of the short piece, thus forming the handle and a loop by which to hang the whip. Begin at the foot of the loop and with a smooth fiat blade of raffia wind tightly and smoothly, overlapping the blades, until within five inches of the end; tie very securely and unbraid the remaining five inches and leave loose. If desired, wind again with contrasting colors same as for picture cord previously described. Directions for making other articles of braided raffia in such a way as to develope the children, physically and mentally, are given below : Table Mat — Take eight hardwood slats and place together in the form of a square, or an oblong the size desired for the mat, using the slats double to secure sufficient strength. Fasten the corners very securely or they will slip. Wind the entire surface closely with three-strand braided raffia, the longer way if in the form of an oblong. Weave with braided raffia, wind- ing the weaving end with a small thread of raffia which will give sufficient stiffness to use without needle. Weave same as for a paperweaving mat, but pass 21 around the slats and weave back on the reverse side, instructing the children to be careful not to take in the lower strand with the other. The inconvenience of handling a braid of sufficient length to complete the weaving can be obviated by using shorter lengths and splicing tightly with a small thread of dampened raffia. If preferred the braiding can be done as needed. When the weaving is completed fasten the end strands securely, slip out the slats and in their place run a couple of braids of raffia and finish the edge with one of the stitches as previously described. Tablet Receptacle — A convenient holder for the tablets of the Seventh Gift can be made by weaving braided raffia as described for the table mat, but of such size that an ordinary tin fruit can or an oblong paper box, open at the end, will slip in between the folds, the braid reaching when flat about one inch above the top. \¥hen the braiding is completed dampen one end of the work and cut the lengthwise strands across the end, and, taking off the first cross strand, fold each cut end back against itself, sewing neatly, and when all bive been thus secured dampen the work, and slipping in the can or box, fit the covering around it. Sew a five- strand braid of colored raffia flatwise around the top, or form in loops or points for a neat finish. If a cover is desired it can be made from a piece of cardboard, cut to fit and covered as for picture frames, and fastened to one side. A braid may be attached to hang them by, and the bottom may be finished with a small braid and tassels. In like manner button or spool boxes, hair receivers and other handy receptacles for the house, can be made by the children and taken home. They mav also serve as scrap baskets for school desks, 22 Hand Bag. — Weave as for table mat the size de- sired for bag. Cut and sew the ends as for the tablet holder, but cut across one side instead of the end. Attach a handle of braided raffia and finish the ed^? with cross stitch. School Bag — Make in same manner as described for hand bag, but larger. This may prove too tedious for the smaller pupils. Articles can also be made without the aid of the in- serted box, if not of too great height, by inserting a piece of reed or a hardwood slat around the top and bottom for stiffening. All the work described above can be done by weav- ing single strands 6T raffia, but this may prove too diffi- cult for the younger pupils, who may not be able at first to keep the upper and the lower strands separate, though this difficulty can be overcome by slipping a stiff piece of paper between. However, many articles can be made from mats woven with both the lower and the upper strands together where the single blades of raffia are used. Among them we suggest a few : 23 Table Mat — After pulling out the slats and filling; in with plain raffia, button-hole or cross- stitch around the edge. Cornucopia- — Weave as for table mat seven inches in size. Fold two diagonally opposite corners together and sew down one side. Wall Pocket — Fold three corners evenly to the center and fasten with bow of raffia and put a small loop on the fourth corner with which to hang it up. Broom Holder — Fasten two opposite corners to- gether, behind which slip the broom. Handy Receptacles for Handkerchiefs, etc. — Fold the four corners of an eight or a ten-inch mat as for a square envelope. Sew together part way up from the folded corners and slightly bend back the points at the center. Letter Holder — A letter holder for the wall is made from an oblong mat, by turning two or three inches up at one end, and fastening with braid and tassels. Comb Case — Make same as letter holder. Other methods of weaving and tying for mats, etc., are given below. It is not claimed that these methods possess any particular advantage over those commonly employed except that they afford a change in the work for the pupils and the added varietv assists in their development. handkerchief case. Take four hardwood slats or flat reeds, lay to form a square of 6 inches. Take No. 19 tapestry needle, thread with raffia; sew through crossed corners once and wind about four times around, tying firmly. Take eighteen buttonhole stitches on each side, with the fin- 24 ished edge out, and taking a stitch back through the over thread as each stitch is completed. The weaving begins in one corner at the inside of stitch next to corner. With needle threaded with long raffia, cross tO' opposite side to stitch next corner, and crossing corner take first stitch and pass to stitch op- posite across frame; thus going around inside the frame instead of back and forth across, going around and around till the frame is filled and weaving under and over the strands thus placed when crossing them arid at each corner as the work advances, running thread under and over the crossed threads of square weaving diagonally across each corner until frame is filled to the center. This will leave -a square four ^5 inches in center of plain weaving, while corners will be formed of a double diagonal weave. Allow this to dry and then clip fastenings of corners of frame and pull out the splints. Fold one corner to center, bring the twO sides to meet it, catch from one edge to the other with fine thread of raffia, thus joining them in seam; leave one end free, but foild down and dry in place and fasten either with raffia or ribbons to tie in center. This will hold six ladies* handkerchiefs or three gentlemen's ordinary size. The front will be formed of double weaving and the back of single weaving. SPECTACLE CASE OR POCKET. Cross splints or reeds in center; wind with a piece of raffia around and over center till firm and tie. Break ofif one end of one splint tO' leave an odd num- ber of spokes ; take two feet of No., i reed, insert end under winding of raffia in center; weave in and out over spokes until material is used up; insert needle* beside a spoke and press last inch of reed in opening so made. This ccnfer will be abottt one and orie-half 26 inches in diameter. Break off the two remaining spokes on one side ; fasten one end of a blade O'f raffia in reed center by pushing end in between reed and spoke; pass over the one long spoke close to reed, weaving on one side and down around reed under one spoke and over one, turning back at the fifth or last spoke, so weaving back and forth to cover two inches from center of reed on each spoke. Now immerse the splints in water a few minutes to make pHable, and then bend back towards a center a little hisrher than the front just woven, this end of spokes being three inches long and the fronts two inches ; bring all five spokes together and take several stitches through the passed ends and then w^ind to cover end of splints and tie thread. Weave back over and under splints, beginning where ends of spHnts meet at top and fill to meet the other raffia at bottom. For loop to hang by, take thread of raffia, sew under top back splint near center; pass over center about one and one-quarter inches under splint on opposite side and back to be- ginning atid then buttonhole over cord thus formed ^nd fasten thread securely with a few stitches behind •center back; take seven stitclies over edge of center ring of reed to hold edge and to finish it. This is really very simple and easy to make. A 27 piece of soft chamois skin, one or two inches square, would be a fitting adjunct with which to poHsh the spectacles, kept in bottom of this little pocket. A knitted or knot stitch may be used satisfactorily in making table mats, wall pockets, hand bags, etc. Use four slats, casting an equal number of stitches on each one. This is a process enjoyed by the little ones and contains a lesson in numbers. After tying on a large blade of raffia hold the slat in the left hand, and with the right, form a loop in the raffia, the part tlrat is tied being ou the upper side, and putting the loop over the end of the slat draw it close, bringing the stitch back on the slat to the starting point. Fif- teen stitches make a mat about four inches square. As ilie latter part of the work is rather slow, large forms art not advised for beginners. After the stitches have been cast on the four slats, cross the ends and tie therri I'ery securely with a piece of dampened raffia, so as to form a frame, having the twisted stitch on the out- side. With a needleful of raffia begin at the corner, tying the raffia, throiugh the first stitch and carry if across to the first stitch on the opposite side. Continue 2^ back and forth, taking care to^ draw them evenly and aHvays having the needle point the same way when putting it through the stitches on the slats, thus keep- ing the strands flat and separate. For looser work the needle would he put through the two stitches at once. After all stitches have heen taken up on the opposite sides, holding the frame toward you so the strands wall run up and down, begin at the upper left hand corner, throwing the thread of raffia toward you and fastening the working strand in the first stitch on the slat, put the needle through to the left under the two companion strands (use the two as one Strand 29 afterward) and draw closely up to the skt. Continue thus till you have gone once across. Then turn the frame from you, putting your needle through two stitches on the slat and proceed as before, only throwing the thread this time from you, and so continue Until the whole surface has -been knitted in. A blade or two of colored raffia may be run in where the slats have been pulled out. In this pattern the work may be divided, the smaller children doing the first part of the work, and those of more experience knitting in the second part. Or, lor a simpler style, after the strands have all been put in as before tie the thread of raffia in the first stitch on one of the unused slats and weave across, passing the needle through the first stitch on the opposite side and continue weaving back and forth until all the stitches are taken up. Half Hitches KnotSj etc. How to Tic Knotg, Chapter II. Double Half HiteheS- Square or Sailor KAots— Bowilh€ As the tying of ktiots is neeess^ry in the work with t-eeds and raffia, we give directions ^below for tying some of the more simple and Useful oriesj Probably the simplest knot known is the half hitch^ but it possesses ilo holding qualities until the knot is repeated, making two half hitches, as shown by th^ illustration above. The same kHots tied around a post are shown below^ c'otisist§ A sqUafe ot sailor knot never slips and simply O'f two overhand or twist knots. First make the common knot and then another just like it, but the two ends at either side must come out together — two Ov- er the loop or bight on one side, and two under It on the other side. Should the knot be so fo^rmed that one end will come out above and the other below on the same side it will not hold, and is called a ''granny" knot. What is known to sailors as a bowline knot is illus- trated below. It is easily tied and untied and never slips. The children should be taught these simple, Usefill :nots, and perhaps others. 3^ Basket Making. Chapter III. Coiled Raffia Baskets -Slat and Raffia Baskets— Reed Baskets— Reed and Raffia Baskets— Basket Handles— lllustsations Showing Ornamental Side Weaves— flats, etc. Basket work will be next considered, and the sim- plest form of construction may be described as follows: For a small basket, five hardwood slats or five pieces of fiat reed ten inches long and one six inches long will be needed. Soak in water till flexible, cross them in the center and place one end of the short slat in the center, tying all very securely together with a slender thread of dampened raffia, winding tightly between each slat. These are to form the spokes or ribs of the hi sket, and must be so placed that all will be of equal length and an equal distance apart. The purpose of the short slat or reed in this and all other similar baskets is to provide an uneven number of spokes in order that the weaving may be alternated. Having secured the center, lay the work flat and bend up the spokes an inch or more from the center, and to insure all being the same length, a circle of cardboard with a hole in the center may be placed on the slats and each one bent up against its edge. To form the top of the basket in an easy way for begin- ners, lap the two ends of a ten-inch slat or reed and wind flatly. Put the hoop thus formed inside the spokes at the top, and, bending each one down over it about a half inch, stitch it in place or wind the hoop all around, fastening the spokes securely to it at even distances from each other so they will not sHp. Begin weaving at the bottom where tied, and draw the weaver closely down to the center. Sometimes, where the spokes are far apart, it is preferable to put the weaver once around each spoke, working towards you, over one and under two, like the back stitch. Continue weaving till the top is reached, when be- tween each spoke pass the weaver through the raffia on the hoop to insure its not sagging. A basket of this size will be cup shaped, and with a braided or wound handle makes a very good candy pail. Another easy-shaped basket for first lessons could be made in the same way, but having the bottom three and one-half or four inches in diameter, thus making a low table basket. Baskets and mats made entirely of coiled raffia ma> be constructed by quite young children. For a medium mat or a small basket use five or six strands of dampened raffia, and, placing the larger ends together, cut them evenly, and taking another on which a needle is threaded, place the end half an inch or more back on the end of the coil, winding out to the end, then back an inch or two (see illustratioa) and take a half hitch, that it may not unwind while 34 the coil is being tightly twisted to form the center, as shown by the illustration below. Hold the small twisted center firmly while sewing over and over on the wrong side, putting the needle through the stitches made by winding. This is easier done wiith a thinner strand than the one used in winding, which you will now make use of again after turning the work the right side toward you and putting the needle up through one o-f the stitches on the second, then over and once around the coil where last wound, and up through the next stitch; continue to wind around the coil between each stitch, taking more stitches when necessary to widen the work or make it lie more flat. After the bottom has been made the desired size (three inches in diameter being about right for a beginner), the sides may be begun by drawing the coil more tightly and allowing the coil to lie above instead of by 35 the side of the one precediing it. After continuing in this way for a space of two inclies the end is neatly turned inside and fastened where one side of the handle is to be sewed on. A bottom of more strength for a larger basket is made by putting the needle up between the second coil from the edge, over the two, and then around the coil as before, thus making a long connecting stitch, and each time around putting the needle between the long stitches made previously, adding stitches to widen when necessary. This style of mat or bottom is shown in illustration. If preferred the needle may be put up through the center of the second coil instead of be- tween, and the coil may also be wound first ; in this case the needle must be put through the outside coil diagonally in order to keep the long stitch straight, as the needle comes up some distance forward. A colored strand may be used when sewing this style. Mats and Baskets. Mats and covers are made in nearly all respects like the bottoms of baskets, except that the spokes are smaller, and as the appearance of a basket depends nmch upon the manner in which the center is started and the bottom woven, the pupils sho^uld first be in- structed in mat making. 36 For the first lesson we suggest a small mat with open border. The material necessary would consist of Four No. I Reeds, thirteen inches long. One No. i Reed, seven and one-half inches long, A quantity of No. 2 Reeds for weavers. Soak all in hot water for twenty minutes or in cold water until pliable : perhaps an hour will suffice. Dividing the reeds into two equal parts, cross in the center and insert the short spoke as shown by the illus- tration. Holding the spokes firmly in the left hand, j^tart the weaving in the manner indicated by the cut above, which may be described as follows ; The end of the weaver is placed on the horizontal spokes, projecting about an inch to the right. The weaver is then brought once around the vertical spokes, around behind the right hand projection of the horizontal spokes, across in front of the vertical spokes below the horizontal ones, and around behind the left hand projection of the horizontal spokes (see illustra- tion). After going around the second time in this manner, pressing all together very tightly, spread the spokes, being careful to get them an equal distance 7^7 apart, like the spokes of a wagon wheel This is es- sential for good work. Now begin weaving over and .under the reeds as shown by the illustration, pressing down firmly. When. necessary to splice, lay in the new weaver, a«; shown by the cut leaving the projecting ends on the Under side of the mat. When the weaving has been completed as far as desired the wOrk can be bound 0'i¥. This process is similar to overcasting. After passing the weaver un- der one spoke and over another, pass it under the last row of weaving near the next spoke, and then draw it behind the last mentioned spoke and in front of the next and under the last row of weaving before the next spoke. When once around complete the mat by 38 bending the spokes so that the end of each will form a loop, thus making an attractive border. The weaving can be done with raffia if desired in- stead of the reed. When the pupils can master the mat work, baskets may be constructed in the same manner, but using spokes one or two sizes larger than the weaver and turning up to form the sides, which can be woven the same as the bottom. If the reeds have become dry. soak in water until pliable before bending. The work can be bound off at the top like the mat and the' ends of the spokes bent Over to form loops as shown by the illustrations below. This finish is suitable for any basket of similar con- struction. The weaving is sometimes done with two and with tt ree weavers at a time as illustrated below. 39 Of course the larger the basket the greater the ruimber of spokes necessary. As the weaving proceeds fioni the center, the distance between the spokes irt- creases, and new short spokes should be laid in as needed. An illustration of a center for a larger basket i.^ giv^en below. BASKET HANDLES. Twisted Handles. — Run a large knitting needle down beside a spoke in the basket and insert the end of a reed of same si^e as the spoke, an inch or more below the top of the basket. Cut this foundation reed the desired length and insert the other end down beside a spoke on the opposite side of the basket. Next insert a pliable weaver reed to the left of the foundation reed and under the third row from the top, ani after running up between the weaving close beside the first one, twist it around and around the foundation reed about an inch and a half apart. When the top of the basket on the Opposite side is reached push the Weaver through at the third row from the top, bring- 40 ing it across the handle on the inside and out at the other side. Place the weaver close beside the first twist and follow the same back to starting point, where it should go under the third row, across the handle on the inside and out at the other side. Each row must be placed close beside the last until six or seven rows have been twisted on to cover the foundation, pushing the 'last one through and then out over a spoke and back again on the inside. The five strand braiding makes a good finish for the tops of baskets. Raffia Handle. — This can be made by using a five- strand braid, or, of two flat reeds by placing them side by side and twisting the raffia first over one and then the other and drawing them close between, as shown by the illustration. A coal of raffia tightly wound in color also makes a desirable handle, but is a little more difficult to sew on to the basket. A very pretty table basket with a border may be made by using as materials 41 Eiglit reeds 20 inches in length No. 2 One reed 11 inches in length No. 2 Weavers of No. i reed. Cross the reeds in groups of four, putting the short spoke in the upper vertical group, and binding securely as shown in cut illustrating first process, by putting the end to the right and binding three times around ; then weave under and over until the bottom is 5 or 6 inches in diameter, when again soak the reeds in water, making the bottom flat and turning the work over; place it on your knee or desk with the op- posite side toward you. Bend the spokes squarely up and continue to weave as before, pulling the weaver slightly. The sides may be from i 1-2 to 2 inches dee]), and, if preferred, about four rows of colored reed in paring weave may be ured. After tbe top ba? been bou:id ofif as previously de- scribed, the border may be made after dampening the spokes by bending the firet one in front of two, then down beside the third, or, before the second, behind the third and down beside the fourth over half an inch, preceding with the next upright spoke in the same manner until the border is completed. A lining of some bright-colored silk or cambric improves it as a work basket and makes it more fascinating to the little ones. A flat basket may be made in the same manner by cutting the spokes shorter and making the sides about one-half or three-fourths of an inch deep and finishing with a closed border by putting the first spoke in front of the next two under the two weavers and draw closely down inside. Continue so around the basket. A high braided or twisted handle, perhaps 18 inches in length, is used on this basket. 42 Small baskets of this shape, made of raffia, and three or four inches in diameter are liked by small children. We give a few illustrations of the more popular de- signs for decorative side weaving for baskets. The ma- terial used can be raffia, flat reeds, splints, etc., ac- cording to the design. * Reed and Raffia Bird Nests. Chapter IV. A bird's nest that ought to dehght the eye of the bird that finds it, or the boy or girl who makes it, is constructed of reed and raffia in the following way : Use eight No. 2 reed spokes 15 in. long. Cross them in the center, tying firmly with raffia and inserting in one group a reed a little over half the length of the others to provide the uneven number of spokes. Weave over and under from left to right till a bottom is formed over an inch and a half in diameter. Another 44 weaver is now added and an inch of pairing weaving put in, the double weaver allowing you to draw the weaving tight enough to gradually -bend the spokes, thus forming an oval or bowl shaped bottom with sides rounding up from the center. As the raffia when dry is apt to slip, it is well to put in just here a row or two of No. 2 reed pairing, lapping the ends about an inch behind a spoke, keeping all pushed closely together. Another half inch or more of pairing in raffia is followed by a couple of rows of reed pairing, which should be drawn tight enough to bring the spokes slightly together, forming the widest part of the basket, which should be nearly twelve inches in circumference, the reed also serving as a support for the •bottom oi the doorway, which will now be started by weaving in raffia pairing around until within one spoke of meeting, which we will call the door spoke and which will be left to be afterward cut away. Now dO'Uble the weavers around the spoke which is next to the door spoke and weave back around as far as the spoke on the other side nearest the door spoke, when double back the weavers as on the opposite side, and so continue till the desired height of the door, about one and one-half inches, is reached, when again put in a row or two of reed pairing, to strengthen the top of the nest; then continue with raffia, gradually drawing the ends of the spokes a little nearer together till they meet. Bind twine around the top, and with three long strands of raffia wind the spokes securely together, 45 using the center of the strands and braiding the re- maining ends at either side to hang the nest hy. The door spoke may now be dampened by wrapping a wet cloth around it or laying the nest in water. When pliable it may be cut in the center and each end run back beside itself, or it may be cut close at the bottom, giving a longer piece to run up beside the middle spoke at the top, through the weaving. Raffia may be combined with other kindergarten material in various ways, one of them being to outline forms or figures that have been made on the peg board by weaving around the pegs. If the finger is placed on the strand of raffia each time as it is put behind and before the pegs the first and second time around they will not be pulled out of place. Always end each exercise before it has become tire- some and have the material gathered and put awa; until the next lesson is to be given. 46 General Notes, Terms, Etc* Chapter V. If desired, the baskets when finished may be col- ored, and for this the vegetable dyes are preferable. A g-ood yellow can be made with the extract of fustic diluted with hot water, or with the fustic chips, which must be soaked for ten or twelve hours, then boiled in the soaking water from fifteen minutes to half an hour, according to the shade desired. First soak the rattan or finished basket one night in an alum mordant (three ounces of alum dissolved in a quart of water). A good purple is secured by using the same mor- dant, then soaking or boiling in extract of logn'ood. Boiling without mordant will produce a brown color. A beautiful scarlet can be obtained from cochineal after using a mordant of six parts of stannous chlu; ide to four parts of cream of tartar. Any of the analine dyes may be used. Use a piece of rattan to try the colors. GENEIL\L NOTES. Before beginning to make a basket, the inexperi- enced teacher will do well to read carefully these notes Paring weaving can be done with either an odd or an even number of spokes. If the reed is not well soaked according to Instruc- tions it will break, and is harder to handle. 47 In sewing with the raffia use No. 19 tapestry needle. Large and small strands of raffia should not be used in the same work. Better to cut off the thin end and take another. Raffia cyn be joined by simply crossing the ends behind a spoke, but a better way is to lap it two or three inches and twist it. Reeds may be crossed behind a spoke or slanted oflF for two or three inches, when they may be held firmly together, and usf'd as one. Reeds used for spokes in small baskets should be one size larger than that used for the weaver. In large baskets use two sizes larger. The bottom and the top of the sides of a basket can be made more firm by using several rows of paring' weaving there instead of the plain weave. Use the left hand to hold the work and the>ight one to weave, working from left to right, after the bottom has been started and the work turned over. The bottom must be kept flat and smooth and made perfect before turning up the spokes, by dampening, then patting it between the hands or on the desk. In coiled baskets, from three to twenty-five strands are used, according to the size or kind of basket de- Fired. Blade and strand, are both commonly used to designate a single piece of the grass or raffia. In all cases use first the plain raffia. Promise the pupils that as soon as they are able to do the work well with the plain material they will be permitted to try the colored. In tying raffia all knots should be put on the wrong side. It can often be laid back and the ends worked over so as not to show, without tying. In braiding, 48 new straiuls are laid in before the old ones get too thin, the ends being cnt quite /close afterward on the under side of the braid. In large baskets, spokes are sometimes increased in number, inserting half spokes, taking care to keep in an odd number; also by separating the spokes at intervals after having used a group of spokes as one in beginning. If you desire a basket with straight sides, turn the well-dampened spokes up sharply at the bottom and draw the weaver rather tight. For a flaring basket, give the spokes the desired slant, and use the weaver more loosely. The odd short spoke should always be one inch longer than one-half the length of the other spokes; to allow it to be bound twice across when winding the center, it should be slipped in between the upright spokes and not at one side. The small child mil find it easier to start the bind- ing and weaving of the bottom with strong rafBa, as it is more pliable and lends itself more readily to the pres- sure of the finger and thumb around the small openings of the spokes. Paring weave is best. After a few times around, use the reed. After binding in the Center, care must be taken to hold the spokes fast, and not allow them to pile up or crowd each other out of position, as they may do if not held firmly enough ; or if the weaver is drawn too tightly instead of being pushed in close with the thumb and the finger. it is impossible to have a satisfactory basket when completed (no matter how much care has been given to the finishing), if the spokes have not been evenly 49 separated when starting the weave, and kept so until well under way, after which they will retain the position with hut little attention. The vertical and horizontal groups of spokes for beginning must be bound together exactly in the center. A foot rule may be used to measure the spokes each way from the center after fastening, pushing and piill- ing them gently till the ends of the reeds are all even. Reeds should be carefully wound in a circle with ends twisted firmly in and out, and soaked in cold water for an hour or in hot water about one-fourth the time. Raffia should be well dipped in water, and wiped ofif if used immediately. Rememhering always that the development of the children and not the rapid construction of objects is the important result aimed at, the teacher should conduct the work accordingly. Require each step to be mastered before beginning a more difficult one. In making larger baskets the number of spokes nm.st be increased as v/ell as the length of them; also use a greater number of spokes for a flaring basket, if high, as the space becomes wider as you near the top, and a long stretch of raffia or soft reed would not present a perfect curve to that part of the basket. Terms. — Weaver, the reed or raffia, etc., used to weave under and over the strands or spokes. Spokes — The reeds, splints or strands used to form the ribs or framework of baskets, etc. Pairing — Where two weavers are used, being crossed each time between the spokes, the one below going above and the one above going helow, thus changing places with each other. This may be done with either an odd or an even number of spokes. 50