>b>^ -^^0^ ,-lQ- *b9 THE WISE GUIDE TO Historic Places in Virginia 1607-1907. EDITED BY KATE: e:llis wise. VIRGINIA PRINTING & PUB. COMPANY HAMPTON. VA. LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two CooJes Received MAY 28 190r .ASS A XXcNo. COPY B. _| COPYRIGHTED 1907 KATE ELLIS WISE. Indebtedness is hereby acknowlvdged for the valuable assistance and data obtained from the following works: Smith's Gsnerall Historie, Chandler's History of Virginia^ Cooke's Virginia, Ben. Butler's Book, McClellan's Own Story, Grant's Memoirs, Life of Robert E. Lee, by Jones, The Cradle of the Republic, by Tyler, and William and Mary College Quarterlies, and from the thrice told tales of loved ones who witnessed the scenes of other days and whose inspiration prompted the research which led to this "GUIDE." Affectionately Dedicated to VIRGINIA HEDGES Who graciously bears the name of 'The Mother of States" And to whose spirit liberty is as dear As it was to her forbears in Old Virginia. PREFACE. Before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, fourteen thousand Cavalier Colonists had landed in the "Old Domin- ion" and Virginia had given to the nation the First Trial by jury, First Marriage, First Birth of a white child, First Legislative Assembly, First Fort, First Church, First American Glass Factory, First Iron Foundry, First Salt Works, First Marriage of Englishman to an hidian girl. First Tobacco Culture, First Socialistic and Communistic community. First Execution, First Christian Baptism, First Treaty, First Gospel to the Indians, Pocahontas the first American heroine had lived, loved, married in this fair land, aye had died and been buried across the seas before the Pilgrims landed on the New England coast, and her kingly father Powhatan, after laying down his scepter with royal dignity, had gone to the "happy hunting ground," having been denied the felicity of a knowledge of the great Boston yet to be founded. The soil of Virginia was Divinely chosen as the place worthy of bearing the First-Fruits of civilization in the new world. Many years before the Pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock, Virginia had laid the foundations of Gov- ernment and builded thereon. Henry A. Wise, one of Virginia's loyal sons thus speaks of her: ''Here the old world first met the new. Here the white man first met the red for settlement and civilization. Here the white man first wielded the axe to cut the FIRST TREE for the- first log cabin. Here the FIRST LOG CABIN was built for the FIRST Village. Here the FIRST Village rose to be the First State Capital. Here was the First Capi- tal of our empire of States. Here was the very foundation of a nation of freemen, which has stretched its dominion and its millions across the continent to the shores of another ocean." Virginia "liveth not unto herself." Her influence has been salutary, not selfish, and the oppressed of every nation live in hope of freedom, being inspired by the exam- ple of her three sons — Mason, Jefferson, Washington — who gave to the world the Declaration of Independence. "From beginning to end it was the work of Virginia. A Virginia planter conceived it; a Virginia lawyer drafted it; and a Virginia Soldier defended it and made it a living realily." ;MM>'^^^" YV7HEN the three ships, the ''Good Poynt W Speed," ''Susan Constant" and ^^'^■^'"*' "Discoverer," bearing the first settlers reached the Chespeake Bay (Mother of Waters) they were driven by violent storms to the western shore of the Bay, where shelter was found, and in commemoration thereof, they named the place Poynt Comfort. When the early settlers in America obtained royal char- ters from King James I, the government of the Virginia Colony was intrusted to the London Company, of which Capt. John Smith and Bartholomew Gosnold were the lead- ing spirits. In 1609 King James enlarged the boundaries of the Southern Colony. The lines were run from Poynt Comfort and included "all the territory 200 miles to to the North and 200 miles to the South, of Old Poynt, and to reach up into the land from sea to sea." Afterwards Poynt Comfort was called Old Point Com- fort, to distinguish it from New Point Comfort, just across tht^ Bay near Cape Charles. Landing at Old Point Comfort the first sight that looms up in huge proportions is the Chamberlin Hotel. Here all the year round the belles from all points of the compass congregate, where they are fanned by the southern breezes and cheered by the merry company of Army and Navy officers, who are stationed at the Fort, or whose vessels are anchored in the Bay, and the halcyon hours of youth are joyfully passed away — of youth — for one never grows old at Point Comfort — as time does not write her records on the cheeks of those who wander through the long cor- ridors of palms, escorted by a Prince Charming in uniform. The hotel is built on the government Reservation. 1:4 T^O the right of the hotel is a view of the stone walls of Fortress Mon- IVIonroe ^^^ The Superiority of Poynt Comfort as a vantage ground, was realized at an early day and the English colonists in 1609 erected a fort there, as a precaution against the Spaniards who claimed the Continent. 'T'HE first Fort was called ''Algeroune Algcroune 1 p^^.^,, .^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ William Alger- oune de Percy. Capt. John Ratclifie was the fu'st Commander of the Fort. 'The first Fort contained seven pieces of artillery, two of thirty-five 'quintals' and the others thirty, twenty and eighteen — all of iron." TV/HEN President George Percv re. ^ - '' turned to England in April, 161^, the name of the Fort was changed to Port -Poynt Comfort Fort." The Fort had various commanders from 1612 to 1665 when the General Assembly of Virginia appointed Capt. William Bassett to build a new Fort at Jamestown, but the King did not approve the change of site and ordered the Fort rebuilt at Poynt Comfort. The Assembiy re- fused to obey the orders of the King and ordered Forts to be built at five separate points adjacent to Hampton Roads. The neglected condition of Fort Povnt Comfort enabled the Dutch Man of War in 1673 to invade the waters and destroy the shipping by tire as they had done in 1667. _ ^ TN 1622 Poynt Comfort Fort was re- port 1 , •, ,u paired and again the name was ^ changed to Fort George in honor of the King, and retained this name until 18 19 when the present Fort was built and called Fort Monroe. Its mediaeval walls, high ramparts, deep moat, and heavy guns look formidable to a foe, while in fact never once since its construction has a hostile shot been fired therefrom, and Fortress Monroe has, since the first stone was laid, kept silent watch at the point which guards the entrance to the Capital at Washington, and the cities of Baltimore, Norfolk and Richmond, In 1818 surveys and plans were made for a United States military fortification at Old Point Comfort by General Simon Bernard, a former French Army Engineer and aide-de-camp to the first Napoleon. The Fort was begun in March, 18 19, the work was carried on by mili- tary prison labor and was finished in February, 1824, and named Fort Monroe in honor of President James Monroe. The original 80 acres which were ceded by Virginia as a site for a Military Post, have since been augmented, the government Reservation now includes about 400 acres. The granite walled ramparts are 35 feet high, the moat is 103 feet wide, and contains 6 feet of water. The water in the moat ebbs and flows with the tide. Fortress Monroe is the largest fortification in the United States. It is the best Artillery Post. About 100 officers and 200 enlisted men are sta- tioned at the Fort (1907.) It was the first Fort built by the United States for Coast Defences. The open plat of ground opposite the Chamberlin is the site of of the old Hygeia Hotel, so dear in memories to the older inhabitants. Facing the sea is a row of new brick buildings, to be used for officers quarters. The building with colonial columns is assigned to the Commander of the Fort, the buildings on either side to field officers, the large double quarters on the extreme left are for officers at the Fort. Situated on the main road is a large red brick build- ing, with a clock in the cupola, which is the United States Post office. The old building back of the Post Office has not always been surrounded with the peaceful atmosphere of to-day. The stone walls were long used as a "bull pen" where recalcitrant negroes were confined. These negroes were hired from their masters for a stated sum., and used by the government in the building of the Fort in the earlier days. Opposite the Post Office is the proposed site of the New Artillery school building, the iron fence which encloses this land is made of bayonets used in the Civil War on the battlefields of Petersburg and Richmond; the gun- barrels that are smooth-bore belonged to the Confederates and those that had rifles were used by the Union Army. The next two buildings are engineer and ordinance store -houses. Opposite a sentry paces to and fro in front of a bridge leading into the postern gate of the Fort. Officers quarters extend to the end of the square on Main street. The street running west leads to the Quartermaster's Office, and C. &0. Depot. At the intersec- tion of Main street, are the Sherwood \nn and St. Mary's Church, called the ''Star of the Sea." To the right is a large building, donated by Helen Gould, to the Y. M. C. A. of the Army. Back of the Y. M. C. A. is an old mine Magazine, which was covered with sand by General Butler to pro- tect it in case of a land attack by the the Confederate forces. To the right of the Y. M. C. A. is a wide bridge across the moat leading into the main entrance of the Fort. Inscribed on the arch over the inside entrance is the United States Coat of Arms, with, a memorial inscription to a Pennsylvania Infantry and United States Artillery Regiments. Passing the sentry and turning down the first street to the right leads to the first building, which is used as the Master Gunners School. The second building is the Officers' Library. At the end of this street is the tirst front of case- mates extending from the entrance of the postern gate to the incline approach to the ramparts where the flag pole is located. The second and fourth casemates next to the postern gate were the places where Jefferson Davis and his Secretary were imprisoned. Jefferson Davis occu- pied No 2 and his Secretary No. 4. Jefferson Davis' family shared his hist year of imprisonment in casemates No. 10, second front. At the end of this row of casements is the entrance to the Officers-' Club. Mounting the ramparts a fine view of the surrounding country may be seen. Back of the flag staff are the saluting guns. An old observation tower, which looks like a Span- ish block house, is near. A path over the ramps and ramparts leads to a modern observation tower, where ships are sighted and the wires leading therefrom extend to Batteries Irwin and Parrott. Across the moat from this point may be seen the fog Bell, which rings almost incessantly day and night during a fog. The view from the ramparts successfully rivals the In- land Sea of Japan. The outstretched arms of Hampton Roads carressingly encircle the surrounding shores; westward the beautiful James River is winding its way from the modern City of Seven Hills where it found a peace- ful entrance in the erstwhile capital of the Confederate States, while southward the Elizabeth River brings its traffic to Norfolk, the great Southern seaport. Looking sea- ward "as far as the human eye can see" the waves of the Chesapeake ("Mother of Waters") stretch toward the great Atlantic, but ere her waters meet and mingle with the ocean they have to pass the two capes, Charles and Henry, (named for the two sons of King James I), which like stern sentinels guard the entrance to Fortress Monroe. Should the eye of sense fail, the eye of the imagination may see afar to the northeast the York River leading to Yorktown, of his- toric fame. From the ramparts of Fort Monroe people swarmed to watch the historic battle between the Monitor and the Merrimac — the engagement which revolutionized naval warfare. The problem of the drinking water supply for Fortress Monroe during the Civil War, was solved by General But- ler erecting a plant to distill sea-water taken from the moat. by converting it into steam and allowing the steam to condense. The expense of this drinking water was a pound of coal for a pint of water. On the edge of the moat back of Batteries Irwin and Parrott are the old water batteries which have lately been partially torn down and the guns dismantled. Ex- tending up the Beach from Battery Parrott are Batter- ies Custis, DeRussy, Montgomery, Church, Anderson and Ruggles. Around the moat on the north side are Batteries Charles Humphrey, Thos. Barber and Bombard. Over the East Gate or Rampart is Battery Gatewood. Following the path to the East Gate a drawbridge at tracts attention. \n former times when the sunset gun was fired and the flag lowered at retreat, the drawbridge was raised and the heavy iron-studded gate closed until sunrise. At pres- ent the East and North gates are closed at sunset. In compliance with the regulations for all military posts and camps, just at sunset the band plays the National air, the evening gun is fu'ed, and the flag lowered. The houses on the inside of the Fort are almost all officer's quarters. The large house, opposite the East Gate, where may be seen a drawbridge, and portcullis, is the old- est house in the Fort and until 1907 used as Commanding officers quarters. The large building next seen is "The Tuelleries," named by the French engineer who constructed it. It is occupied by officer's families. In front is a beautitul holly tree, whose berries are red for seven months in the year. The trail- ing vine which covers many of the houses and walls is the famous Virginia Creeper, which remains green all the year. Opposite, across the parade grounds, is the Model Bar- racks — the largest in America, where four of the twelve companies in the Fort are quartered. The large trees stretching their long green branches across the beautiful walks are live oaks, said to have been brought from England. They are more than a hundred years old. The large oak in the center of the parade ground, near the corner of the smaller barracks, and almost directly opposite the Main Entrance, is the tree under which Jeffer- son Davis, the President of the Confederacy, was re- leased. hiteresting trophies of the Revolutionary War are in the oak Grove in front of the "Chapel of the Centurian." The cannons and balls in Trophy Park were surrendered by Cornwallis at Yorktown in 1781, and one brass cannon surrendered by Burgoyne at Saratoga 1777. Opposite the Main Entrance may be seen a sun dial imbedded in the ground. In the rear of the "Modern Barracks" is the new Gymnasium Building, the Guard House, the Post Ex- change, and the Gardens. Leaving the Fort by the Main Entrance the first build- 2;^ ing to the right is the Administration Building and Printing Office. Next to the Fire Department is the Hospital. The long one story building is the Artillery School. It was established tor the higher technical education of officers of the Army in Balistics, Chemistry, Electricity, Sea-coast Defence, Artillery proper, and special lines in their profession. The school was established in 1867 under the command of Brevet Major W. F. Berry. Next to the Artillery School are two sets of Bachelor's Quarters, and opposite are Officer's Quarters. The Poynt Comfort Inn is a private enterprise built on Government Reservation. Guard Mount daily (except Sunday) at 11:30 a.m. Guard Mount Sunday at 9:30 a. m. Parade, with Butts Manual to music, daily (except Saturday and Sunday) io:ioa.m. IHH I p^^^^K^ 1 H iMHi H^^^K Kp^P, ^^H '^S^P ^K^'^W l^S^^^^k^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^Hb^^v#|^^S fllHi^^Bi ^ > IHlHi ^^^^l^Mp^ ^^^H ^^^^HJK'-f*- ^^^^Hk ) -^1^^^^^ I^^^^K^' HHj w' H^^!P m ,^^ , T^HE bridge which joins Old Point B-*hoeE3tiS I and Phoebus is replete with memo- ries. It was here that the first flag of truce was seen dur- ing the Civil War, when Major Carey of the Confed- erate forces sought an interview with General Butler in re- gard to three runaway negro slaves of Colonel Mallory, who had taken refuge in Fortress Monroe. General Butler held the negroes "contraband of war" and refused to return them. The consultation lasted four hours, during which time Major Carey and General Butler rode up the beach to Buck Roe. Josiah Simpson Hospital is located between Phoebus and Buck Roe. Many veterans of the Spanish War retain vivid recollections of the Hospital, which received patients from the tented city of Newport News, and convalescents from the Cuban campaign. -^ - -^ DUCKROE was the site chosen Buck Roe D ,- ,, - , ,• i a- f i ^^ ^ for the establishment of grape cul- ture, and here the French Vigner- ons, brought over by Antony Bonall in 1621, instructed the people how to raise grapes and make wine. At the junction of County and Mallory streets in Phoe- bus transfers are given to car lines leading to Buck Roe Beach and the Soldier's Home. At the terminus of the line is the former home of Harrison Phoebus, the founder of the town and long known as the proprietor of the Hygeia Hotel. At the end of the street is the entrance i » \I^ ^P^^ ^^^ ^^^^ more beautifully Soldier s IM gj^jj^ted than this home for dis- riome ^^^jg^ Volunteer Soldiers— as far as the eye can reach there is a constantly changing scene — the waters of the Bay send their murmuring waves against the sea wall that borders the beautiful grounds, tall trees and blooming flowers enhance the beauty of the place. On the rows of seats may be seen the old soldiers in all degrees of decrepitude — there they sit day by day watching boats go out to sea until Charon comes with his boat to row them to the other shore. Nowhere is he nation's gratitude more fittingly shown toward the valiant men who served in the hour of need. The large central building with the dome was formerly used as a female college, and was built by the Baptists in 1857, at a cost of about $63,000.00. It was taken by the government in 1861 and used as the Chesapeake Hospital, and later as Headquarters for the Military. General Butler purchased the property and sold it to the United States m 1870, and since that time all the other buildings have been erected. The Ward Memorial Hall is of special interest. Horatio Ward, of England, bequeathed $10,000.00 for the use of disabled soldiers and sailors. This Home obtained a share of the bequest. The point west of Soldier's Home facing Hampton Creek vvas called during the war "Bull Pen." it was en- closed and used to confine Confederate prisoners. 30 The large theater is well equipped with scenery and some of the best artists of the country have trodden its boards. The old soldiers are very exacting critics of drama- tic performances. The Band Stand near the centre of the grounds is where the Band, one of the best in the State, discourses sweet music for the benefit of the old soldiers, daily at 3 p. m., except when funeral services are held. Across the grounds from the Band Stand, near the sea wall is the residence of the Governor of the Home, and in the rear of this building is the Administration Building. The Library with its many thousands of volumes donat- ed by sympathetic friends of the veterans is open daily and together with newspapers and magazines, is a great source of comfort to the disabled warriors in their declining years. Other pleasant diversions are fishing, boating, salt water bathing, wandering through the grounds along the broad roadway which extend in rear of the esplanade. Some are sitting under the beautiful trees relating stories of the past, and in memory living over the deeds of valor whose bugle blasts even now seem to them to surge near and die away with the whispering tides. In the midst of the flower gardens is a monument erected to the memory of Colonel Woodfin, the first Governor of the Home. The cost of this shaft was de- frayed by the invalid inmates of the Home. On the lawn in front of this building can be seen one of the most beautiful panoramas in America, out before us in the dim distance are tlie full rig^^ed sailing vessels en- tering Hampton Roads from the Virginia capes. Still closer loom up the fortifications of Fortress Monroe and Fort Wool, while the Chamberlin Hotel presents a beautiful blending of color with sea and sky. Near by on the left is Hamp- ton Creek, filled with sailing crafts of trade and pleasure. To the immediate right the tall elevators at Newport News tower like grim sentinels near the mouth of the James River. Off to the right of these is Sewell's Point, occupied by a Confederate Battery in 1862, and now the site of the Jamestown Exposition. Rising above the pine groves on Sewell's Point are clouds of smoke from Norfolk. In the distance is Craney Island, near where the Confederates de- stroyed the Merrimac. Soldier's Home covers more than 200 acres. At present there are 3,800 inmates of the Soldier's Home, about 1,000 of whom are away on leave of absence. There are 100 Mexican veterans at the Home. Five hundred thousand dollais in pensions are paid the old soldie s. On the sight of the Soldier's Home, before the dawn of our history, Powahatan placed one of his sons— as ruler — one of the under kings to the great Emperor, it was un- der Pochins' rule that the Indians of Kecoughton killed Humphrey Blunt. This so incensed the whites that, led by Gates, they not only attacked the Indians and drove the whole tribe from the Kecoughton Territory, but also sought to wipe out every memory of them by changing the name of the place to Elizabeth City. SOLDIER-S HOME ^, ^. , eiTUATED between the Soldier's National O ^ ^ ^i m i c i . ^ Home and the Norinal School ^ Grounds is an Old National Cem- etery, which has been filled by military interments. It was established in 1866 and here rest the remains of 4,690 known and 47^ unknown warrior dead of the Union Army, and 285 Confederates, who died while prisoners of war. The last burial was made here about fifteen years ago. At the entrance the following tribute greets the eye: ••On Fame's enternal ;-ninpin^ uroiiiul Their silent tents are spread And glorj- ajuards with solemn round The bivouac of the dead.'' hi the center of the park of marble slabs towers a granite monument, built stone on stone to the height of 175 33 feet. It is enclosed within a circular fence of bayoneted gun barrels supported by cannon posts, and on the four faces of the monument appear the insignia of infantry, cavalry, artillery 1861 to 1865, the United States Coat of Arms, and an inscription "In memory of Union Soldiers who died to maintain the laws." This shaft was erected by Dorothy Dix aided by subscription to the amount of about $50,000,00. "-The green mold and decay upon the stone wall which encloses the cemetery grounds are half hidden by the em- bracing foliage of Virginia creeper. The" waving, fringed, boughs of pine, the gnarled limbs of live oaks and the clus- tering green leaves of the magnolias in loving tenderness seek to protect the rows of time eaten marble headstones from the ravages of age; while the graves and spaces between are blanketed over with pine needles, which soften the footfall of the reverent visitor until the fu'm tread of the angel shall be heard as he blows the reville which shall summon the '^varrior spirits to greet the warrior's banner." The simple, uniform headstones here testify to the democracy of death, for the same style stone marks the resting place of officer and private as they are laid side by side. The new cemetery is near the old one to the east. There have been about three thousand interments to date. At present there is an average or about twentv burials of the old veterans a month, which too sadly reminds us that soon the survi\'ors of the Great War will be with us no longer. Near the new cemeteiy are the Dixie llospital, and the Whittier Training School for negro children under the control of the Hampton Normal School. CEAT of the Hampton Normal and l^*^*^ S Agricultural institute, designed to give negroes and indianS; an idus- trial training. The original farm of 125 acres bordering on Hampton Creek, one half mile V I ■i I VIEW OF NORMAL SCHOOL south of Hampton, were purchased by the American Missionary Association in 1867 at the instance of General S. C. Armstrong. Present enroUment of indians 100; negroes 1 1 80. The most disth^iguished graduate of the school is Booker T. Washington. The first cargo of negro slaves was landed not far from this school in 161Q, and this was the fu'st school founded for the industrial training of the negro. It is under philanthropic and non-sectarian control. There are but two buildings in the Normal School grounds that were there before the war, and these have been remodeled; one is the residence of Dr. H. B. Frissell, which formerly belonged to Dr. Wood, and the other was used "fore de war" for a school building for colored chil- dren, and is now the Whittier School. The school grounds now contain 188 acres exclusive of Shellback farm. Total graduates 1158; ex-students, not graduates, 5,000; trade school graduates, 277; Indian graduates, 96. In twelve counties in the immediate vicinity of the school 90 per cent of the negro farmers own and manage their own farms. Near this industrial school for the negro is the place where Captain John Smith first instituted an industrial policy for the white colonists when he declared that if a colonist would not work neither should he eat. Hampton Brids^e 'T'HE rows of houses between the Normal School and Hampton Bridge, are historic. President Tyler's old mansion, a red frame building, is just across Hampton Creek, second house from the bridge. The large red brick house on the Creek was the home of Colonel Mallory, the Commander of the Virginia forces. i HAMPTON CREEK These together with the three homes on the right were con- fiscated and used by the Freedman's Bureau to house negro amilies after the burning of Hampton and until tlie :ermination of the Civil War. At the beginning of the Civil War the Virginia Militia ittempted to burn the bridge over Hampton Creek, at the entrance to the town from the Fort Monroe side, but were M'evented from doing so by the Federal forces under Colonel Phelps, of a Vermont Regiment, whose troops :harged at a double quick and saved the bridge, and then )ccupied the town. ■p^IRST landing place of the early Hampton English settlers in April, 1607. They were hospitably received )y a tribe of hidians. Hampton is described by Capt. John Smith as "A place that so turneth itself into bayes md creekes, it makes that place very pleasant to inhabit." hi September, 1607, during a famine. Captain John Smith ;ailed down the James River searching for corn, which the ribe of hidians at Hampton refused him; he tired a vol- ey, captured their idol, seized their supplies and returned Jamestown. Hampton is noted as a place where the people have )layed an important part in making history. The town vas successfully defended during the Revolutionary War >y the inhabitants, aided by a rifle company, against the British fleet in 1775. Hampton was burned by General Magruder in August^ 861, many of the citizens setting fire to their own homes :}8 in order to prevent them from being occupied by General Butler's forces, then at Fortress Monroe. General Magruder with 3,000 Gonfederates were in camp on Back River. Hampton has 10,000 population, and the principal streets are King and Queen. Principal industry is trade in fish, oysters and crabs. The largest crab factory in the world is on Hampton Greek opposite the Normal School. This factory has the exclusive use of a canning fluid that preserves crabs in cans in any climate. it was here that General Washington laid the plan which culminated in the surrender of the British at York- town. Hampton was captured by the British Navy in 181 3. The hidian name of Hampton was "Kecoughtan; it was settled by the English in 1610, surrounded by earthworks erected in colonial times and later by Union and Gonfed- erate armies. Hampton is laid out in the shape of a Bow-and-Arrow. it is the site of the first free school in America, Syms-Eaton Academy — 1634. The original site is still used for school purposes. It is situated at the entrance of the town, from Phoebus opposite the great bank of oyster shells on Hampton Greek. in 1642 Benjamin Syms died, leaving 200 acress of land for free schools. This was increased later by Thomas Eaton's gift of 400 acres of land for the same purpose. 39 It is the oldest continuous English settlement in the country, Jamestown having been abandoned as a place of residence. The first harbor where the early colonists landed. The town and surrounding territory were originally called Kecoughtan, this being the name of a tribe of hidians in. habiting this region. Later the name was changed to Hampton, in honor of the first president of the London Company, the Earl of Southampton. One of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, George Wythe, was born on an estate near Hampton. He was the first Chancellor of the Court of Equity. Hampton was oftimes the rendevous of Blackbeard, the famous old pirate, who sent terror to the hearts of the early settlors. The British Sloop "Ottie" in command of Captain Squires was burned by the inhabitants of Ham- ton, who thus retaliated for former indignities. The Brit- ish withdrew for a time, only to return in battle array a month later. At a cove in Hampton Creek was built in early years a fort called Fort Defiance; a modern stone residence now occupies the site, which is opposite the Normal School. February 27th 1634, Leonard Calvert and his colon- ists stopped at Hampton enroute to found the colony of Maryland. April 29th 1700, an English Man-of War ''Shoreham" after an obstinate fight overcame a pirate ship which had been playing havoc along the coast. Hampton of old was called the ''Game Cock Town," which of recent date has been held to have been applied to her on account of the valiant manner in which she met the vicissitudes and fortunes of war. Ante-bellum tales are fraught with chronicles of the great cock mains that were held in the nearby counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond and Henrico, and among the quaint and curious records still preserved in the Court House, at Hampton, is one which shows that in 1644 forty-six persons were fined so many pounds of tobacco for non-attendance at church. It is presumed that these parties might have been unavoid- ably absent from church while attending the cock fights in aJjoining counties. hi 181 2 Adniral Cockburn, Commander of the British fleet, attempted to land at Hampton Creek, but was repulsed by heavy fire from the shore. He finally effected a landing further up the stream (near LaSalle Ave. and Boulevard,) burned the town and committed outrages which so aroused the inhabitants that they arose enmasse and forced him to return to his ships. In 1610 two forts were built atthe mouth of the Kecough- tan (now Hampton Creek. ) The forts were named Fort H^nry and Fort Charles in honor of the two sons of King James, and the territory adjacent of the same name was later changed by the House of Burgesses to Elizabeth, for the daughter of the King, the reason given for the OYSTKi: SHELLS change was that they objected to "so heathen a name as Kecoughtan." This action shows that Shakespeare's con- temporaries in the New World did not believe with him that "There's nothing in a name." hi 1 716 Hampton had the largest trade of any place in Virginia. The fu'st child born in the Jamestown colony was Vir- ginia Lay den, born in Hampton parish. It is noted that she was christened "Virginia," as was also "Virginia Dare," the first babe born in the early colony at Roanoke, which ended so disastrously. 42 St. Johns's QT. JOHN'S CHURCH, built 1657, Church burned 1778 — oldest parish in America; parish organized 1610. Two churches were built by the early settlers in Hamp- ton parish before St. John's was erected. The first church was located on East Hampton creek; the second on Pem- broke farm. These were the earliest places of Christian worship in Kecoughtan territory. The record shows that in "1 716 there were a hundred houses in the place and no church." The pages of history are silent in regard to houses of worship during the succeeding eleven years, but in 1727 we read that the people quarrelled over the site of a new church, and that feeling grew so strong the Governor and Council were appealed to for a settlement of the matter, and the present Queen street site was chosen, and St. John's church is the result of that decision, and though it has been tried by fire and sword it stands today a peaceful monument to the spirit of church amity, in strong contrast to the "Good old times" when its foundation stones were placed in the now historic sod. The honor of founding the church at Hampton is due to a woman — Mrs. Mary Robinson, who gave "two hundred pounds sterling by her will, proved in 1618, to founding a church." A silver communion cup bearing the date of i6i7isa i- .- treasured relic at St. John's church, being the oldest plate in America. hi the churchyard is buried the first Surgeon-General of the Navy Balfour. He was born in Elizabeth City county. The interior of St. John's Church is replete with inter- est. To the right of the front entrance is a window given by the Indian Students of the Hampton Normal School, at a cost of $400. The window represents the baptism of Poca- hontas, the hidian Princess. The old negro who has been janitor for fifty years re- lates the historic incidents with great pride. in the pulpit on Sunday morning may be seen the high- est type of a Southern gentleman of the Old School, the Rev, Dr. Beverly Estell, the Rector, The old church records extending back to 1635, fully repay the time spent in examining them, in 1812 the British forces occupied St, John's Church. Report is current that the brick originally used was brought from England, but this cannot be verified. It is also stated, but not confirmed, that originally the King's Coat of Arms was on the steeple but immediately after the Declaration of hidependence was signed the steeple was struck by lightning, hurling the royai insignia to the ground. Monuments in the Churchyard are quaint and curious. Near the entrance of the Church there is a record in- scribed on a headstone of one who died November 31st. The oldest known grave bears the date 1701. Here is the only monument known in America to have been erected to commemorate the deeds and valor of the private soldier of the Confederacy. The main entrance to St. John's is guarded by a tall weeping willow, one of the grandest of Nature's sentinels, its huge spreading boughs enshroud the tombs of the dead, cast a shade or reverence over the monument to Southern valor and benignly shelters the living as they visit the shrine, which, in its holy bounds preserves the annals of the past. Earth affords no more fitting spot for the stranger, the exile, and the reverent tourist of all lands to tune their harps under the shade of the weeping willow and to bring their hearts in accord with the lays of their native land. St. John's Churchyard is the crowning beauty of Hamp- ton; were the grounds more extensive, it might well com- pare with the Happy Valley on Hong Kong, China. . A^ ^'8 Bethel, ten miles north of ir-. !.? - Hampton, the first blood of the civil war was shed June lo, i860. A monument erected by the Daughters of the Confed- eracy marks the historic spot. Wyatt was the only man killed on the Confederate side; he was a Virginian by birth, then serving in a North Carolina regiment. 46 XTEWPORT'S NEWS was good news _ , ^ 'in ye olden days" and if you now visit there you may see what energy and thrift can do in building cities in the South, for within eleven years it has grown from a hamlet to a flourishing city of 30,000. The site of the city first appeared upon the map of Capt. John Smith as Poynt Hope, and it remains yet a place worthy of its first chris- tening. It is a town old in name, but thoroughly modern in progress and enterprise. Tradition tells us the place was called Newport News from an interesting incident. When our forefathers at Jamestown, 20 miles up James River, were in a starving condition; they sent to England for aid and supplies, and anxiously awaited the return of the re- lief ships. The colonists established a lookout station on the bluff (which is now the town site) and with great con- cern watched day and night for the coming of help. Their vigilance was rewarded at the dawn of one bright day when a vessel outfitted by Lord Newport hove in sight. The watchmen on the out-post were the first to sight the ship and immediately messengers were sent up the river to Jamestown, away, to proclaim the good news of Newport's arrival. The spot was called Newport's News in commemoration of the joyful news of the arrival of aid and supplies sent from England. Local tradition and history are at variance as to how the name originated, the latter stating that the place was originally called Port Nuce, and later New Port Nuce to distinguish it from a place in Wales. History records that as early as 1633 '<^ Dutch ship cap- tain visited "Newport's Snuw," finding there "a fine spring where all the ships stopped to take in water." Newport News is situated at the junction of the James River with Hampton Roads, it is built on a bluff and as far as the eye can behold are magnificent views of the James, Elizabeth and Nansemond Rivers flowing into Hampton Roads. In the early part of the civil war Newport News was seized and occupied by the Union Army under Gen. Benj. F. Butler, as a strategic point commanding the waterway route to Richmond and other towns and positions on the James River. Here Butler erected a battery and mounted a large gun, with which he finally succeeded in hurling a projectile six miles across the mouth of the James, toward a Confederate entrenchment. Extending from the mouth of the James was a long sand bar covered with shallow water, and running several hun- dred yards out into Hampton Roads. It was upon this point that the Confederate Iron Clad "Merrimac" ("Virginia") ran the U. S. Frigate "Minnesota" ashore, where soon after she took fire from the bombard- ment and her magazines igniting she was blown up, hurling upward the debris and wreck of this magnificent vessel. General Colton, a Frenchman, the Confedlerate General commanding in this vicinity, waded out upon the sandbar up to his neck in water to witness the strange, but novel engagement. When the explosion occurred, throwing ship and crew skyward, the Frenchman explained "Eetesze magnifique." N 1-: W r( ) KT N E WS DR YD( )( ' K . In Newport News is located one of the best and larg- est shipbuilding and dry docking plants in the world, which employs about 7,000 men. Here were built some of the best ships of the United States Navy, the Louisiana, Ken- tucky, Virginia, Carolina, Minnesota, Tennessse and Kear- sarge, and also the large merchantman Korea. The plant is situated on the water front and covers one 49 hundred and twenty acres of land. It has expended as much as three and one half million dollars in wages for one year. The largest drydock in the world is here and the business has so incereased that a third dry dock is in course of construction. Crowds of people gather in the city when the great war ships are launched with pomp and ceremony, and magnates from ali over the country assemble to see the christening by some fair hand. A trip through the shipyard of the largest ship building plant in America will repay the visitor, for you will see from 4000 to 5000 workmen employed who have built war ships, cruisers, torpedo boat destroyers and great merchantmen. Newport News has the largest grain elevator in the world and is the nearest seaport for exporting grain, tlour, coal and tobacco from the great West and Northwest. Ex- ports have amounted to $35,000,000 in one year. Newport News is the tidewater terminal of the Chesa- peake and Ohio Railway. When the late Collis P. Hunt- ington placed the terminus of the C. & O. Ry. here he built a town by financial magic. Near the C. & O. Yards are large grain elevators and huge coal piers for the loading of ships in the export and foreign trade. The extent of the foreign commerce may be appreciated when it is known that in one day in 1906 there were tippled and loaded from these piers 2315 tons of coal. Near town during the Spanish-American war was a mil- 50 itary camp where troops were rendesvouzed and dispatched, in the various expeditions, to Cuba and Porto Rico. Again in 1906 Newport News was thronged with blue and khakii clad men when troops from all parts of the United States were mobilized for the Army of Cuban Intervention. Newport News is now one of the U. S, Army Transport Stations, where the Transports "Sumner, "Meade," and "Ingalls" ply between Hampton Roads and Cuban waters. The depth oi the harbor at mean low tide is 28 feet, and the largest deep sea-going vessels can tie up alongside the piers. This harbor is large enough to afford anchorage for the combined fleets of the world. IJAMPTON ROADS is an inlet of Mamf3t:on Fl ^^^^ Chesapeake Bay, with an Roads r eel ., area of fifty square miles, one coast line measuring eleven miles in length and the other two nine miles each. The waterways which empty into Hampton Roads are the James, Nansemond and Elizabeth Rivers, the latter draining the Dismal Swamp of Virginia Hampton Roads is five to seven fathoms deep and can furnish anchorage for the largest ships, is a great natural harbor and is situated at a strategic point off the Atlantic coast. From the time the little fleet, Discovery, Good Speed and Susan Constant were driven by the fierce storm into her safe harbor and there found comfort and shelter, until I today Hampton Roads has been viewed as a point of vant- age, and has played an important part in every step of our naval history. April 29, 1700, the English Man-of War, "Shoreham," encountered and overcome a pirate ship in Hampton Roads. in 1775 the British Sloop "Ottie" devastated the coast of Hampton Roads. The vessel was commanded by Cap- tain Squires, and was the first naval attack by England and the beginning of the Revolutionary War. After burning Norfolk Lord Dunmore continued to lay waste the coast in and around Hampton Roads, until in July, 1776, Lewis, at theheadof a Virginia force attacked him on Gwynn's is- land; a ball passed through Lord Dunmore's flag-ship, and he exclaimed "Good God, that it should ever cometo this," and hastily spreading his sails escaped with the prow of his vessel toward the sea. Captain Henry Maynard, on November 21, 1 781, sailed through Hampton Roads with the head of the famous pirate Blackbeard swinging from the bow sprit of his vessel and bearing the captive crew, thirteen in all, to Williamsburg, where they were hanged. The skull of Blackbeard was afterwards made into a drink- ing cup and is still preserved as a treasured relic in Vir- ginia. Decatur sailed from Hampton Roads when he went to punish the Barbary Corsairs, this, together with the wars with France, England and Spain were glorious vic- tories for the American cause, as the fleets which sailed 53 from Hampton Roads went forth con(iuering and to con- qner. In 1807 the British Squardron was off Hampton Roads watchin^S' for some French Frigates which had taken refuo-e at Annapolis. In the spring a whole boat's crew of the British Sloop-or-war ''Halifax" deserted and made off to Norfolk. The commander was informed that his men had enlisted on the American Frigate "Chesapeake." At the same time it was claimed that three deserters from the British Frigate "Melampus" had also enlisted on the "Chesapeake." Upon investigation it was found that these men were native Americans improperly impressed into the British Service and therefore not subject to re- clamation. On June 21st Commodore James Barron assumed com- mand of the American Squadron at Hampton Roads. The "Chesapeake" started on her cruise. She had hardly got under way from Hampton Roads when she was im- mediately boarded by a boat from the British Ship "Leop- ard," her officers demanding the deserters. Their sur- render was refused on the ground that they were Amer- ican citizens. A few moments after, the "Leopard" fired a broadside into the "Chesapeake," the American ship was in no position to return it. A single gun was fired as her colors were hauled down ; there being no matches at hand it was discharged by means of a coal brought from the callev. Three men were killed on board the "Chesa- peake", and eiiihteen wounded. Four men claimed as Eng'lishment were taken out of her. She returned to Hampton Roads the same evening'. This was one of the causes that culminated in the War of 1812. Early in the spring of 1812. before war was declared by Congress, four British barges with all their crews were taken as prizes in Hampton Roads by the American Cut- ter "Jefferson" supported by th'e Frigate "Constitution." A few weeks later Captain David Porter, with the U. S. S. "Essex" sailed off on a cruise against the British with a flag bearing the motto: "Free Trade and States Rights." Hampton Roads was the seat of hostilities during the war of 1812 Admiral Cockburn who commanded the Brit- ish fleet sailed to Hampton Roads, landed at Hampton, burned the town, committed untold outrages, and laid waste the entire coast, but at Craney Island he was re- plused by a force of Virginians. He sailed from Hampton Roads up the Potomac, and burned the eapitol at Wash- ington. Hampton Roads is noted as the scene of the first naval battle in which iron clad vessels took part. On ^larch 9th., 1862, after destroying and blowing up several wood- en firigates and men-o-war the Confederate Iron Clad Mer- rimac engaged the Monitor in the famous naval duel. The battle was fought in Hampton Roads between Old Point and Sewells Point, boats which ply between the two points pass the historic spot. Near the site of the famons battle of the Merrimac and Monitor is anchored the hosi)ital ship "Jamestown" which was converted from a U. S. Frio-ate the fastest of her class in her day. In Hampton Roads directly off Point Comfort, Presi- dent Lincoln met with the Envoys of the Confederacy for council to terminate the war, restore peace and enforce the Monroe Doctrine by driving Maximilian from Mexico. CZap6 Henry Was named for the son of James 1st. The Virginia colonists first disem- barked at Cape Henry, but the Indians drove them back to their boats and they proceeded to Hampton Roads. The colonists erected a wooden cross to mark their first landing- place, this has been replaced by a stone tab- let. An old light house dating from 1690 still does service. Cape Henry may be reached by boat, rail or trolly. dhesapeal^e In 1565 Spaniards attempted to es- Bay tablish a eJesuit Mission in that part of Virginia which is now North Car- olina, and Don Pedro Morquez, the Governor of Florida, sailed along the coast and entered "The Bay of Santa Maria, in the latitude of 37 degrees and a half," which is the Chesapeake Bay. The expedition failed. The first fleet to discover the new continent was com- manded by John Cabot in 1487. The Enolish fleet discov- ered the mainland of America and claimed it in the name of England. The first landing, and possession and fonn- dation of English title. Cabot sailed from New Fonnd- land along the Atlantic Coast and passed the mouth of Chesapeake Bay going to Florida. Powhatan, Emperer of America held full sway along the Chesapeake Bay from Roanoke River on the south to Tockwogn at the mouth. Chesapeake Bay is the greatest inlet of the Atlantic Coast. It is two hundred miles in length and varies from four to forty miles in breadth. Tt is of sufficient depth for the largest ships to ascend al- most to the mouth of the Suscjuehanna. The Chesapeake Bay oysters, fish, crabs and canvas backs are well known the world over to epicures. The English Fleet ])earing the first settlers were driv- en by a violent storm into the Chesapeake Bay, the "Mother of Waters." Its quiet expansive waters have witnessed some mem- orable conflicts in the annals of naval warfare. On March 10th, 1813 the American privateer schooner "Adeline" in defiance of the blockade of the Bay by the English Squardron under Admiral Warren, sailed in, attacked and sunk a British schooner almost under the guns of the blockading ships. Shortly afterwards a battle was fought on the Bay by four American vessels and seventeen Brit- 58 ish barges. One American ship was lost in this eng'ag'e- ment. Fort Wool is located in Hampton Roads about 2,200 yards from the water batteries on Fortress Monroe. The place was originally called Fort Calhoun, and is often called Rip-Raps. It contains fifteen acres, and the island is almost entirely artificial. And was built by Confederate prisoners during the Civil War. It was with great difficulty that a firm bottom was formed and huge rocks were brought from distant points for that purpose. It was used as a military prison during the Civil AVar, named in honor of General Wool, who suc- ceeded General Butler in command, and was mounted Avith large guns. With Fortress Monroe it guards the en- trance to Hampton Roads, and the upper Chesapeake. Fort Norfolk As the boat glides into Norfolk Harbor, on the left bank of the Elizabeth River may be seen an old fort, small and insig- nificant it looks and in strange contrast with the buildings which tower above it in the bustling city of Norfolk, or the long iron piers and huge ware houses so near it. The forts usefulness is over, but rich memories cluster around the spot and in its day it served its pur- pose and was accounted of great value when the Knight of the Golden Horseshoe held sway in 59 Viro'inia. Batteries were then erected in the fort and also on the present site of the U. S. Marine Hos- pital opposite. Thus the colonists early fortified against the Dutch, Spanish, Indians and Pirates, and secure in this coast defence they laid the foundation of the city and builded thereon. History does not record why Fort Nor- folk's g'uns were silent when Lord Dunmore sailed safely up the Elizabeth River and played such havoc with Nor- folk on that fatal new year's day. In 1794 the title of the ground was vested in the gov- ernment as long as it was occupied for military purposes. It was used as a military post until the breaking out of the Civil War it was seized by Virginia and later turned over to the Confederate authorities. It was held by them when the Merrimac sailed out on that memorable day to encounter the Monitor in Hampton Roads. After the evacuation of Norfolk by the Confederates, General Wool entered the harbor and again the fort passed into the pos- session of the general government. The usefulness of the fort ended with the invention of long range guns, and Fort Norfolk is now a storehouse for unloaded projectiles. Three Guardsmen are on duty. [Norfolk Norfolk is on the west bank of the Eliz- abeth River eight miles from Hampton Roads, and thirty-two miles from the Atlnn Ic Ocean. It has a fine harbor easily accessible to the largest vessels. GO Its entrance is ritish troops. General Nelson, of ready mind and o-enerous heart commanded his soldiers to fire into the house, connt- ino- as naught the personal loss of his property. When the troops hesitated he offered five firuinea to the soldier MOORE HOl^SE. WHKRK TERMS OF SURRENDER WERE S1(4XEI). firing the first shot. The spirit of personal sacrifice, which is the supreme test of patriotism, was contagious, and each soldier instantly fired his best shot and the old mansion with its cherished hearthstone was soon in ruins. A cave where CornAvallis took refuge during the bom- bardment is near. About a mile from Yorktown is the "Temple Farm," where the ruins of an old temple may be seen. This building- is supposed to have been used as a place of worship, and also as a fort in the event of an In- dian attack. This double use of a buildiu"' shows how far we have progressed in the art of peace during the three hundred years. At the beginning of our history we preached Peace from the pulpit with one eye on a loop- hole in the church wall looking for war, today we preach Peace from our pulpits and prepare for war by building forts a little beyond the church walls. A short distance from the ruins of the old temple on Temple Farm is the "Moore House," built in 1713, and reported to be the summer home of Governor Spotts- wood, and the place of his burial. The Moore House is of special historic interest as the place where the terms of surrender were drawn up and signed when the bell rang the death knell to our enmity toward England. No tourist in Virginia fails to visit Yorktown, the place where the curtain fell on the last scene in the great drama of the American Revolution. Out of the blood and car- nage rose an Independent Nation which has fulfilled the promise at its birth, and verified the comment of Washing- ton on that great historic day that "The work is done, and well done." A stone monument erected by (Congress marks the spot where Lord Cornwallis surrendered to the American 9-3 Forces on (Jetober If), 1781, and bears the inscription "One destiny, one country, one constitution." Engraven on the monument are tri])utes to the heroes who partic- ipated in the t»iory of that dav, and hiah on Fame's mon- I'li;: roAi iioi umeiit with tlie names of Washington and Nelson are the names ('ompte de liochambeau and Compte de Grasse, publishing- to the world our debt of gratitude to France who came to our aid in the hour of need. The first Custom House built l)v our forefathers in 1715, is standing', a monnment to the bnilders of that day. One mile from Yorktown are the earthworks of Fort Magruder, the battle ground of McClellan and Johnson's forces in May, 1862. Dismal The famous lake of the Dismal Swamp, Swamp a few miles from Norfolk is reached by the Dismal Swamp Canal. Washington projected the canal in 1787. It was dug by hand, and is 82 feet wide and 8 feet deep, for a length of 22 miles. Washington regarded the Dismal Swamp as of great value on account of its large forest preserves. The Dismal Swamp has been immortalized in song and story, Tom IMoore versing its tradition of the lovelorn maid. Smith Taken On December 16th, 1607, Captain daptive John Smith embarked on a voyage toward the South Sea. For some unknown reason he turned into the Chickahominy and proceeded up the stream stopped by the shallows. With a canoe and some Indian Guides he continued his voyage with two compan- ions, leaving the remainder. Reaching White Oak S.vamp, east of Richmond, he landed, was atacked and captnred l)y Indians. He was taken before their Chief, Opechanca- nough, l)rother of the Emperor Powhatan. The Indians killed his two companions, and Smith was bound, lashed to a tree and ordered executed. But when he exhiluted a small compass, the Indians were so ama::e:l tbat he was re- leased, and was sent under guard to appear beiore Pow- hatan. While in captivity, Smith was waited upon by the Queen of Appomattock. Tnese aboriginal Virginians were content to be ruled by women. History records, a Queen of Paspaheghs. Beverly says that in 1700 the Pun- goteague was governed by a Queen, that Nandyne was the seat of the Empress and that the Empress has the shore tribes "under tribute." Powhatan The first Emperor of Virginia, was Powhatan, who ruled the Powah- tans, and over thirty other tribes of Indians inhabiting the territory called Tidewater Virginia, extending from Chesapeake to the Piedmont, 8000 square miles, 8000 sub- jects and 2400 fighting men. Chief places of residence — Powhatan, below Rich- mond, birthplace of Powhatan, Orapax, on the Chicka- hominy, Werowecomoco, on the York River was the chief place of council. Uttamussac, on the York River was the great national temple of the Indians. The Powhatans believed their God Okee or the one alone called Kewassa came to earth once. On a rock be- low Richmond about one mile from James River may be seen gigantic footprints about five feet apart — these, the 98 Indians said, were the foot prints of Kewassa as he walk- ed through the land of Powhatan. A party of men from Jamestown sailed up James River and visited Powhatan at his lodge near the present site of Richmond. Richmond Richmond was founded in 1742 on land belonging to Colonel Byrd, who was ac- counted the most accomplished man in America. He own- ed the finest library on the continent and Richmond from the beginning was peopled with master intellects and in refinement and culture has lived up to the example of her founder. The State Capitol at Richmond, was begun in 1779, here are preserved as relics — the Old Speaker's Chair and a stove from the House of Burgessess in Williamvsburg. Thomas Jefferson dedicated a plot of land in Richmond upon which a building was to be erected and know^n as the American Academy of Letters. This Academy was to be to the new nation of America, what the Paris Academy or Arts is to the French. The Academy was soon burned, and then rebuilt. On an occasion when the Governor of Virginia, his staff, officials, society, the beauty and gentry of the countryside and distant plantations had gathered as a brilliant assemblage to witness the first night produc- tion of a new^ play, the Academy again caught fire and Avas quickly burned with such disastrous effects that the Cov- L 0; mi OLD liKlAj TOWKU. ernor and many prominent people were nnmbered amon^ the victims of the holocanst. The remains of the dead were bnried npon the spot, and to commemorate one of the saddest events of that day, the present Monumental Church was erected on the site of the Academy, divine ser- vices are regularlj^ held above the grave possessed in com- mon by the dust of beauty, aristocracy and sturdy yeom- anry. For years the church had a rector whose visage, features and mien so resembled the unhappy J. Wilkes Booth that rumor and morbid speculation proclaimed him to be indeed the great actor assassin of Lincoln. Weird tales were recounted in secret how he escaped his pursur- ers and donning the ministerial garb, devoted the remain- der of his life to deeds of mercy. And those who sat un- der the matchless eloquence were enthralled by his ora- tory. His advent and antecedents before coming to Rich- mond remain a mystery. He is said to have been a pro- found Shakesperean scholar, that the climaxes of his sermons were intensely dramatic, and that he trained his only daughter for the stage. These facts lent color to the rumors. To escape the annoyance of curiosity seekers and the melancholy gloom surrounding him, he suddendy disappeared. No one knew whence, nor has any one since been able to fathom the mystery. "Richmond by the James" has been called the Modern City of the Seven Hills and is midway between the sea and the mountains. Her citizens have suflPered the tur- bulence of the one in her Indian, Revolutionary and Civil Wars and have risen to the heights of the other w^hen swept by the sublime eloquence of Patrick Henry as he proclaimed for liberty or death. Old St. John's Church whose walls rang with the elo- quence of the early patriot is built in the shape of a cru- ciform and is visited by the liberty loving of this day. Benedict Arnold burned Richmond January 5th, 1781 and every street is replete Avith memories of the sad havoc he made of the city. It was near Richmond that Lafay- ette led the American forces to meet General Phillips who marched against Richmond, but "The proudest man of 102 the proudest nation upon earth" declined to attack the young* Frenchman. The Headquarters of General Washington may still be seen on Main Street near 20tli. ^ Libby Prison was situated on Carey St., near 14th. The Confederate Hospital was on 17th and Broad Street. General Beauregard's Headquarters were on 2nd Street, and were later used as a Confederate Hospital. The Powder Magazine at the right of the Alms House was fired by the Confederates to prevent the ammunition from being used by the Union Army. A fine view of Richmond and the historic James liiver may be seen from the Capitol, also the Battlefield 's ot Drewry's Bluff and Seven Pines, and hills and valleys clothed with living green eight months in the year. The earthworks around Richmond may still be seen, the only works comparing in scientific construction with them were those erected to defend Washington, D. C. Military strategists and students from all nations have come here to study the works and defences around Rich- mond, which Vv^ere thrown up during the Civil War. Nearly every foot of land surrounding Richmond was battleground during the Civil War, but Dutch Gap Canal is the only military construction of all that were done by the army, which remains of use to the country in time of 103 peace. Dutch Gap is cut in James River, and is fourteen miles south of Richmond. Among the interesting sights at Richmond are the monuments erected in honor of Virginia's great sons. The equestrian statue of George Washington is surrounded by statues of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, George Mason, Thomas Nelson, Jr., John Marshall and Andrew Lewis. The statues of Henry Clay and Stonewall Jack- son loom up in marble and bronze, not far from the eques- trian statue of Robert E. Lee. Hollywood The graves of Jefferson Davis, his wife and daughter are in Rich- mond's Historic City of the Dead. Mrs. Davis died in New York October 16, 1906 and the remains were taken to Richmond and buried in Hollywood. The casket was escorted to the railroad station in New York by a funeral guard of United States Troops. This is the only instance on record where such an honor was accorded a w^oman. The funeral took place from St. Paul's Protestant Episco- pal Church. Varina Varina or Aiken's Landing was in an early day the county seat of Henrico County. It is noted as the place where John Rolfe and Pocahontas resided after their marriage. Varina during the Civil War was used as a place for exchanging prisoners. 101 dold Harbor Cold Harbor is only a few miles from Richmond, and here was fought one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War. Grant lost over ten thousand men in the two or three hours of the deadly duel. It was here that Grant took out his watch and said "If I do not hear Lee's guns with- in ten miutes Richmond is ours,' but with in five min- utes Lee's artillery opened up the gates of hell and Rich- mond was not evacuated until one year afterwards." Mlail VCrn Mill was named in happy remem- brance of some of the hills in En- gland. An old Virginia mansion is still standing on Mal- vern Hill which is said to be one of the best specimens of colonial architecture in the Old Dominion. Malvern Hill is the site of one of the bloodiest conflicts of the Civil War betvv^een Gen. McClelland and Gen. Joseph E. Johnson. INatural Natural Bridge of Virginia 14 miles Bridg^^ from Lexington is one of the wonders of the world. It is a single block of lime stone made up of many colors. The arch is from 40 to 60 feet wide and top of the plain is 200 feet above the strenm Avhich flows beneath the arch. Many names are carved on the bridge, George Washington when a youth carved his name high above them all, but, James Piper a youth of our day has succeeded in climbing from the foot to the top of the rock. 105 Hanover This is the birth place of Henrj^ Clay and home of Patrick Henry. The old Court- house was erected in 1735. Stewart was killed in an at- tack by Sheridan a short distance from this point. Alexandria Alexandria early struggled to be the capital of the Republic. Christ's Churcn is the favorite historic spot in this region. Here the Father of His Country worshipped. Washington Avas Worthy Master of the Masonic Lodge of Alexandria. Mount IMount Vernon not far distant is the beau- Vernon tiful plantation where Washington took his bride. It was named in honor of Ad- miral Vernon, a popular naval hero of the day. The beau- tiful banks of the Potomac are lined with historic places from its mouth to Mt. Vernon, where reposes the dead hero. It has been rumored that his body has partially petrified and lovers of the marvelous foster the belief that some day the remains of the father of I'is country will be preserved in stone. Arlington The beautiful home of General Robert E. Lee in Ante Bellum Days was here. It was confiscated during the war and bought later and used by the Government as a National Cemetery, the most beautiful in America where the old soldiers peacefully find a last resting place. 10() Manassas Beauregard and McDowell fought the first battle of Bull Run near here July 21st, 1861. The second battle of Bull Run occurred August 30, 1862. Three miles from Manassas a monument is erected to the Confederate dead. The earth works still remain. dulpeper Culpeper has a national cemetery where fourteen hundred Federal Sol- diers are buried. From this place Grant started on his Wilderness Campaign. Here Lee entrenched after the Battle of Antietam, and after Gettysburg Meade pursued Lee to Culpeper. The Army of the Potomac encamped here during the winter of 1863. Orange On a plantation two miles from Orange, Zachary Taylor was born. All the adjacent country was used as a battleground during the Civil War. Montpdicr one of the famous man- sions of Old Virginia is located here. It WHR the home -of President Madison. Gordonsville Lee had his headquarters here before the Wilderness Cam- paign. An engagement took place here in December 1864. Charlottsville Charlottsville was the tempo- rary Capital of Virginia in 1781 wlien Benedict Arnold drove the Legislature from Rich- mond. Monticello the home of Thomas Jefferson is two miles east of Charlottsville. As he went to Washington, alone on horseback, to take the oath of office as president, so he returned eight years later. He lies not far from the university that he loved so well. Charlottsville was the home of three Presidents — Jef- ferson's at Monticello; Monroe Hill and Ash Lawn, were homes of Monroe, the former at the University Campus. ''Montpelier" President Madison's home was twenty miles away. The University of Virginia is called the Cradle of Ambition. It is claimed that the immediate vicinity of Charlottsville has produced more great men than any other territory of the same dimensions in the United States. Charlottsville is the birth place of General George R. Clark who added Ohio to the Republic in 1783. It is also the birthplace of Lewis and Clark who following a path- way, led by a beautiful Indian girl explored the great Northwest Territory and added to our national domain. "Pen Park" is the place where William Wirt, the first Attorney General of the United States lived. The Hes- sians, who were Revolutionary War prisoners were con- fined here in "The Barracks." The Legislature of Virginia on January 12, 1803 passed an Act incorporating the Albermarle Academy, which be- came the Central College and ultimately the University of Virginia. The corner stone of Central College was laid October 6th, 1817 in the presence of Thomas Jefferson, 108 Rector, and James Madison and James IMonroe, the latter then President of the United States. The board appoint- ed by the Governor met August 1, 1818 at the Tavern in Rock Fish Gap on the Blue Ridge Mountains and adopted the report regarding the organization of the University. January 25, 1819 the Legislature adopted a formal act ''For Establishing a University." The University of Virginia is the child of Jefferson's old age and long did he plead with the State Legislature before he succeeded in establishing it. To convince them that Charlottsville was the most available place to locate the seat of learning, it is said that he cut from card board the figure of Virginia, pierced a hole through it at the point where Charlottsville is located and inserting a pen- cil therein revolved the card upon it, thus demonstrating to the law makers that Charlottsville was the geographi- cal center and hence most suitaole for a seat of learning. Charlottsville has fulfilled every promise made for it and the University of Virginia is the leading university of the South. The young men who win her degrees are gentle- men today, who show no diminution of the cavalier spirit of the past. Jefferson drew most of the sketches of the buildings, basing them upon designs by Palladio. The buildings are unique in architecture, planned by an artist as well as an architect, and are a delight to the eye. They are like an old Italian monastery. The origi- 109 nal group planned by Jefferson consists of four parallel rows of structures and at one end stands the Pantheon- like rotunda. Every part of the building is a work of classic art and is a joy forever to the lover of symmetry. Af ton Afton is at the summit of the Blue Ridge Mountains where Governor Spottswood led his Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. On his return home he presented each Knight with a diminutive golden horse- shoe, set with diamonds and rubies, sending the bill to the King. His Majesty refused to approve the account. From the apex of the Blue Ridge may be seen the beauti- ful valleys of the Piedmont and Rock Fish, fifteen hiui- dred feet below. Staunton Staunton was named in honor of Lady Staunton, wife of Governor Gooch and was incorporated in 1788. In 1781 when Benedict Arnold drove the legislature out of Richmond, the members took refuge first in Charlottsville and later in Staunton. The Shenandoah Valley is in this region, and also Luray Cave. The Cave covers forty acres of land. Sheridan gained control over the Shenandoah Valley by a decisive action at Waynesboro. Lexins^ton The seat of the Virginia Military Institute, and the Washington and Lee College, the remains of Gen. Robert E. Lee and Stone- wall Jackson repose here. no West West Point is known for its beauty of loca- Point tion. Five counties converging on the York River, are in full view. The town had long- been established before an act was passed incorporating towns during the reign of Queen Anne. Two participants in the Bacon Rebellion were hung in chains at West Point by Sir Wm. Berkeley, and others who had sought refuge in the Dragon Swamp were hung to the limbs of the "Royal Oak ' tree in Middlesex Coun- ty. The town was early fortified by the revolutionists of 1676. Washington had his Headquarters at West Point in an old stone marl, long since in ruins. The Confederate and Union Armies held the town in succession in the Civil War. Fortifications built by the latter in 1863 may still be seen. McClellan occupied West Point in the Peninsula Campaign and used the White House, the home of the Lees in New Kent County as a base of operation. On the site of the White House once stood the mansion of Martha Curtis, in the days of her widow- hood. Marpcr's Here the fire brand and agitator, John Ferry Brown was captured after making his famous raid through Virginia to liber- ate slaves and destroy property of slave holding planters. After being captured by U. S. Troops under command of Colonel R. E. Lee, he was tried by the State Courts of Virginia. His trial was a memorable one and Governor H. A. Wise utilized every power available to the State to insure that the accused should receive a fair trial and not suffer at the hands of violence. The State furnished him counsel, and protected him with the State militia. He was condemned and executed. Winchester The early settlers of Winchester were principally Germans. It was laid out as a town in 1712. A portion of Fort Loudon, built bv Washington in 1754 is still standing. The situa- tion of Winchester is the key to the valley of the Shen- andoah. During the Civil War Winchester was held in turn by the Confederate and Federal forces. Sheridan "twenty miles away" obtained the information on which to make his attack on Winchester from Miss Rebecca Wright, a school teacher at that place. She wrote the de- sired information on a piece of paper, wrapped it in tin foil, and gave it to a negro man who secreted the tin foil under his tongue, got through the lines and reaching Sheridan's Camp delivered the message which conveyed the information on which the attack was made. At a re- union twenty years after the war, General Sheridan ac- Ivuowledged the service of Rebecca Wright by publicly presenting her with a gold watch and chain, and suspend- ed from the chain were gold pendant charms wrought in 112 the shape of the implements of war — a diminutive drum, sword, rifle and canteen. General Sheridan in thus hon- oring the woman honored himself, and showed that he regarded the honors he gained in that historic battle great enough to be shared with another. Chancellorsville At the beginning of the Civil AVar Chancellorsville was a sol- itary brick Mansion surrounded by a few out buildings standing in a clearing on the verge of a wild region known as "The Wilderness.^' If each stone had a voice in this wilderness the visitor of today might hear plain- tive sounds issue therefrom similar to those coming from the desolated battlefield of Wagram, which moved to anguish the son of Napoleon. Chancellorsville was the site where Jackson received the wounds which caused his death. With a small escort he had ridden out to re- connoitre. Turning back he was fired upon by his own men who mistook the company for enemies. He received several wounds from vv-hich he died a week later. Lexington This is the seat of the Virginia IMilitary Institute, The Washing- ton and Lee University and the tombs of Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson may here be visited. Petersburg Here occurred one of the blood- iest engagements of the Civil War. After Grant had exploded his mines, blowing up Wise's ii;5 Brigade, he made an early morning' attack on the surpris- ed Confederate Lines. Lee threw three divisions in the breach at the point of attack, and as their formation was in echelon the carnage was fearful among the Union For- ces. The crater on the exploded mine is 200 feet long, 60 feet w^ide and 30 feet deep and is known in military annals as "Hells Half Acre." The crater and trenches may still be seen around Petersburg. iMatoax, a mile from Petersburg was the home of John Randolph, father of John Randolph of Roanoke. Appomattox Twenty miles east of Lynchburg CZourt Mouse was made famous April 9th, 1865, when Gen. Robert E. Lee surrendered the army of Northern Virginia to General Grant. The illustrious Commander in-Chief of the Confederate Army "wept tears of blood" at the conditions which drove him to take up arms against the Union. He "recognized no nec- essity for this state of things," but Virginia called him and he obeyed the call. So great and magnanimous was this man that even the enemies of the Southern cause con- ceded the purity of his motives. When Lee laid down his arms at Appomattox and surrendered his sword to Grant the hour had come for fratracidal vv^ars to cease. To our fathers dueling was thought to be a necessity, and those who prophecied an end to this desecration of man- hood, were called "dreamers," but today dueling is a crime, and one man dares not take up arms against an- other to redress a wrong. So great progress have we made in the belief in the majesty of law that we gladly submit our personal wrongs to a court, and we accept the decision when twelve jurors have arbitrated the matter. If it be a crime for one man to war against another, is it not a greater crime for a multiple of men to resort to force when they conceive themselves wronged? What is wrong for an individual cannot be right for a nation. The great Peace Congress assembled in New York in April was made up of men and women from every nation, who met for the purpose of furthering the cause of Arbitra- tion, and so great was the intensity of purpose of those who love life that the people who sat under the spell of matchless oratory heard in the distance the deathknell of war, and saw in the future a fulfillment of Christ's prophecy that "Wars shall cease." The plan of Lyman Abbott, so extolled by platform and press, is as old as Christianity. No nation could live if it were cut off from all other nations, therefore no nation would long refuse to arbitrate. General Robert E. Lee was great in peace as war, as the president of Washington College, he cheerfully, pa- tiently and laboriously devoted his last days to the youth of the countr}^, and were he living today he would no doubt be a leader in the great peace movement. He is said to have died of a broken heart, the world could not afford to lose him, and at his death all sections united in pajnng tribute to this man of heart and brain. "The drapery of heaven hung low In dark and gloomy shrouds ; The angel's used the weeping stars In pinning back the clouds. The shades of gloom and woe prevailed Over all the land and sea, And eyes that were unused to tears, Now wept for Robert Lee." Scwdl's Sewell's Point is named for Henry Sea- Point well, a member of the House of Burges- sees in 1639. The first engagement in the Civil War in Virginia oc- curred at Sewell's Point May 19, 1861. Sewell's Point is the place from which the three slaves of Colonel Mallory escaped during the Civil War. They sought protection at Fortress Monroe. General Butler after securing what information they could give concern- ing the fortifications the Confederates, were building at Sewell's Point, put the negroes to work at Fortress Mon- roe. It was at the conference concerning the release of these negroes that the phrase "Contraband of War" was used by General Butler, who held that this paved the way to President Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation eigh- teen months later. Here the Confederates threw np breast works and erected batteries. Where the ''Monitor" retired to the protection of the guns of Fortress Monroe after her duel with the "Merrimac," the Confederate Iron Clad with- drew to Sewell's Point. When Norfolk was evacuated, the ''Merrimac, " des- troyed by her crew and Johnston's Army retired to Rich- mond, the works at Sewell's Point were destroyed by the troops that constructed them. The Powhatan Oak 355 years old may be seen at the water's edge on Sewell's Point, when Sir Ralph Lane first discovered the land bordering on Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay, August 15th, 1585, the tree was thirty years old. Powhatan long ruled this Tidewater Region. The Pocahontas Spring is a short distance away. Jamestown Ter-Centennial Exhibition Official name : Jamestown Ter-Centennial Exposition. Character: Military, Naval, Marine and historic ex- hibition. Nature : State, National and International historic cel- ebration. Purpose : Commemoration of the first permanent set- tlement of English-speaking people in America. Distances; from Exposition g:ronnds : Norfolk City limits, five miles; Fortress Monroe, four miles; Old Point Comfort, three and a half miles; Newport News, five miles; Portsmouth, eight miles; Ocean View, three miles. Exposition grounds reached by electric railway, steam railw^ay and steamship. Location : On shores and waters of Hampton Roads, near Norfolk, Portsmouth, Newport News and Old Point Comfort, Virginia. Exposition area : Five hundred acres of land and ten thousand acres of Hampton Roads. The Jamestown Exposition has three miles of water front — two and a half miles on Hampton Roads and a half mile on Boush Creek. Two sides of the Exposition grounds are inclosed by a high wire fence, covered with honeysuckle, crimson ram- bler rose and trumpet creeper vines. The Exposition's great military drill plain contains thirty acres, surounding by trees and pretty walks. A canoe trail, two miles long and twelve feet wide, runs from Boush Creek, which flows into Hampton Roads through the most interesting part of the Exposition grounds. A romantic winding trail, called Flirtation Walk, fol- lows along Canoe Trail for more than a mile. The various State buildings are all near the water front, and from these can be seen ships and steamers go- ing out to sea and coming in from all parts of the world, as well as the grand naval display. The navies of the world are assembled in Hampton Roads. The Jamestown Exposition is a historical study of the past 300 years. The prevailing style of architecture at the Exposition is the Colonial. Many of the exhibit buildings and all of the States' buildings are to be permanent structures. More than a million flowers, shrubs and trees are al- ready growing on the grounds, and others are being- planted. Jamestown Exposition Buildings. The Hall of Congress; Mining and Metallurgy Build- ing; Smelter; Manufacturers' and Liberal Arts' Palace; Machinery and Transportation Palace; States' Exhibit Palace ; Graphic Arts Building ; Pure Poods Building ; History and Historic Art Palace ; Education Building ; Pocahontas Hospital; Mothers' and Children's Building; Children's Model Playground; Model School; Model Schoolroom ; Iron Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village ; Pottery Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village ; Copper, Silver and Woodworkers' Shops, in Arts and Crafts Village; Textile Building, in Arts and Crafts Village. Grand Piers: 1,400 feet long, from Exposition grounds into Hampton Roads, 800 feet wide ; connected by cross ny pier 1,200 feet long at a distance of 1,400 feet from shore. Marine Building-; Place of Commerce; The -'War Path," with a myriad of new and gorgeous attractions from many lands. Two hundred State, National and International con- ventions, conferences and conclaves. State Most of the State Buildings are Buildins^S on the water front on "^Yiuough- by Boulevard. The prevailing style of architecture is colonial and each state has as far as possible built on the plan of her most famous colonial building. Massachusetts repro- duces the old" State House" in Boston, one room of which is a replica of the old council chamber where James Otis fought against the Writ of Assistance ; Connecticut, the '^Talmadge Home" where lived the member ol Washing- ton's Staff who was commissioned to execute the British Spy, INIajor Andre; Georgia, "Bullock Hall," the home of President's Roosevelt's mother; New Jersey, General Washington's Headquarters at Morristown ; Pennsylvania, "Independence Hall" in Philadelphia; Maryland, the col- onial home of Charles Carroll, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, one of the rooms in this building being a facsimile of the old Senate Chamber in Annapolis, where General Washington resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of the Army ; New Hampshire, the "Langdon Home". Ohio, has a reprodue- 120 tion of ^'Adena" the first stone house built west of the Alleghany Mountains; Kentucky, Daniel Boone's fort, the logs being brought from Boonesboro. The fort is fit- tingly located in a grove of trees. Missouri with Dakota, Louisiana, Illinois, West Virginia, Vermont, Rhode Island, Delaware, North Carolina and Virginia have all followed the colonial style, and New York reproduced "Arling- ton," the home of General Robert E. Lee at the outbreak of the war. In the Virginia building is hung the "Poca- hontas ' • bell cast by the ' ' Pokahuntas ' ' Bell Association at Baltimore. Numerous family heirlooms were melted for the bell. Among the most valuable of these relics were ]\Iajor John Pelham's spur, Chief Pugallop's bracelet, nails from Libby prison and a piece of the Merrimac ar- mor plate. The bell weighs over 500 pounds. The effect of entering the States Building in the Expo- sition City is to be transplanted "To ye olden times" and the welcome received in each building equals the famous hospitality of the Old Dominion. The "Powhatan Oak," near the Water Front is 355 years old, and under its long branches have sat the In- dian and the white man smoking the pipe of peace. "Po- cahontas Spring," back of the Pocahontas Hospital, is as fresh and sparkling as in the old days when this heroic maiden drank thereof. INDEX Afton Alexandria . Algeroune Fort Appomattox . Arlington Big Bethel . Bruton Church Buckroe Beach Cape Henry Chamberlin Hotel Charlottesville Chesapeake Bay Chickahominy River Cold Harbor Colonial Homes Culpeper Dismal Swamp Fort George . Fort Norfolk Fort Wool . Fortress Monroe Gordonsville Great Bridge Green Spring Hampton PAGE I lO 1 06 14 114 106 46 71 28 57 12 107 57 97 105 90 107 97 15 59 59 14 107 66 79 38 PAGE Hampton Creek . 35 Hampton Roads . 51 Hanover 106 Harper's Ferry III Hollywood . 104 Jamestown . 81 Jamestown Exposition 117 James River 90 Lexington no Malvern Hill . 105 Manassas 107 Map 54 Mount Vernon 106 Montpelier . 107 National Cemetery 33 Natural Bridge 105 Newport News 47 Norfolk 60 Normal, Hampton . Harper's Ferr}^ III Old Point Comfort 12 Orange 107 Petersburg . 113 Phoebus 28 Pocahontas . 104 Poynt Comfort 10, i^ U 15 123 PAGE PAGE Portsmouth . 6i Powhatan ' 98 Richmond 99 St. John's Church 43 St. Paul's Church 6i Sewell's Point ii6 Smithfield 88 Soldier's Home 30 State Buidings 120 Staunton no Varina . 104 William and Mary College 74 Williamsburg 66 Winchester . 112 West Point . III Yorktown 91 FROM OLD POINT COMFORT, VIRGINIA. Via: C. & O. R. R. to Williamsburg to -; Richmond. [ Hanover. Alexandria. Manassas. Culpeper. Orange. Madison. Charlottesville. Afton. Staunton. Clifton Forge. Yorktown, 12 miles. Jamestown, 7 miles. Green Spring, 4 miles. All by Carriage. Phoebus, about i mile. Soldier's Home, i 1-2 miles. From Old Point Comfort, to Normal School, 2 1-2 miles. Hampton, 3 miles. Newport News, 10 miles. Take .any street car at Main Wharf. Norfolk. Portsmouth. Ferry Boats from Old Ocean View. Point Comfort, to Hampton. James River route to Sewell's Point. Exposition. Old Colonial Homes. Brandon. Shirley. Claremont. Westover. Jamestown Ruins. Take Old Dominion S. S. Co. and the Virginia Naviga- tion Co. boats. 1B.5S i ^ An *: «^. * £^^^ CL ^. . A^"^ /IV/a-o ''^. .^'' y,^;:- %. J^ > '^WJW* ^r^^^ . 'bV^ 5" ^^. -^ A> oo*"* > DOnS BROS. MfT; ■.■■IIARV BINDINQ " MAR 81 .^ - » . 0^ y i ' « FLA. 32084 £:t;?a™»"R>3N O^ * • -