A' "^A v^^ s^^^' ^/-. oN' PIONEER HISTORY CHAMPLAIN VALLEY; AX ACCOUNT OF THE SETTLEMENT OF THE TOWN OF WILLSBOROUGH BY WILLIAM GILLILAND, TOGETHER WITH HIS JOURNAL AND OTHER PAPERS, P^moir, mti giisitartal nmX gUu.stvntive ^ofjc^, BY WINSLOW C WATSON. ALBANY, N. Y. : J. MUNSELL, 78 STATE STREET. 1863. ;.■^^^ HOIT. AUGUSTUS C. HAND, PROMINENT AMONG THE EMINENT CITIZENS OP OUR COMMON DISTRICT, IDENTIFIED WITH ITS POLITICAL AND JUDICIAL HISTORY, AND THE LIFE-LONG FRIEND OF THE DISTINGUISHED DESCENDANT OF THE SUBJECT OF THIS VOLUME, THE WORK, WITH ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. PREFACE. In the year 1852 I was engaged, under the auspices of the State Agricultural Society of New York, in making an agricultural survey of Essex county, in that state. My duties incidentally in- volved an examination of its natural features and resources, and a research into its traditions and history. Whilst I was employed in these enquiries, the late General Ross mentioned to me Oscar F. Sheldon, of Willsboro, as most competent, from his habits and study, to aid my labors. I at once visited Mr. Sheldon, and was surprised and de- lighted by the rich treasury of antiquarian wealth he revealed to my inspection. I learnt that he had been occupied, without noise or pretension, for fifteen years, in exploring the traditions and chronicles, and in collecting the antiquarian ele- ments of the county, and that he had made con- siderable progress in a local history of Willsboro. The first night I enjoyed his hospitality, we occu- pied, to a late hour, in reading his manuscripts and discussing the varied points of interest in our com- VI PREFACE. : mon investigations. With rare liberality and kindness, Mr. Sheldon assigned to my use the fruits of these years of labor and vigilance. At this time I first heard, from Mr. Sheldon, of the existence of the Gilliland journal and docu- ments. He had visited William Gilliland, Esq., the son of the pioneer, at Salmon Kiver, had been allowed to inspect these relics, and had de- rived, from the recollections and conversation of Mr. Gilliland, a vast fund of the most valuable information. This gentleman was a schoolboy of fourteen at the outbreak of the Revolution, and of course was familiar with the colonization schemes of his father, and all his eventful history. He im- parted freely to Mr. Sheldon all the information he jDOSsessed, and engaged to make a careful in- spection of his father s papers, and to collect those of interest for the examination of Mr. Sheldon, at a future visit, which was appointed. Mr. Sheldon made copious notes of the facts and recollections communicated to him, but unhappily Mr. Gilliland did not survive to the time designated for the second interview. I immediately oj)ened a correspondence with Messrs. William and Henry P. Gilliland, the grandsons of the original proprietor, who resided at Salmon River, on the patrimonial estate. These gentlemen submitted to my examination, without PREFACE. Vll any restraint, all the papers of their ancestor, in their possession. I spent several days in this very pleasant occupation, and in the enjoyment of the attentions and hereditary hospitality of the family. From the mass of papers I examined, I selected the journal, letters, and other materials, which are embodied in the following work. I am quite con- fident that other documents of great interest are still in existence, and in the possession of other persons; but I have been unable to excite any enthusiasm which might elicit the discovery and production of these papers. Joel Munsell, Esq., the eminent author and laborious explorer in the obscure but fascinating paths of antiquarian researches, detected from my work on Essex county the existence of this new and rich field of exploration opened by these Gilli- land manuscripts. His appeals have been urgent and unremitting upon me to prepare them for pub- lication. I at length yielded my reluctance to his zealous representations, which presented the sub- ject to me almost in the form of a patriotic duty, and have assumed the laborious task he proposed. I feel conscious that the time and attention, drawn from other occupations, which I have been able to devote to this labor, have been inadequate to an appropriate performance of the service I have ini posed uj^on myself. Vlll PREFACE. I am again, since I have embarked in these ex- plorations a second time, indebted to Mr, Sheldon for unceasing and most valuable aid, in the collec- tion and preparation of the materials I required. The investigations of the future historians of our country would be infinitely facilitated, did every community enjoy the presence of a chronicler, who should garner up its legends and records with the intelligence and zeal that has distinguished his services. Mr. Sheldon is descended fiom one of the earliest immigrants after the Revolution, and has enjoyed from this circumstance peculiar ad- vantages for tracing and gathering traditions and reminiscences which extend to the remotest period of the colonization. The mental and moral qualities of William Gil- liland Avere of a remarkable character. Endowed with extraordinary energies and high intellectual powers, which were burnished and invigorated by culture, his enterprise, his sagacity and forecast, would have impressed a powerful influence where- ever his capacities were exercised. His life was a romance — basking in brilliancy and hope — steeped in adversity — culminating in the highest prosperity, it closed its infinite vicissitudes in dark- ness and gloom, and by a tragic end. W. C. WATSON. Port Kent, Essex County, N. Y. August, 1863. PIONEER HISTORY CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. LAKE CHAMPLAm. This lake, with its navigable waters, stretches due north from White Hall to St. Johns, in a direct course of about one hundred and thirty miles. The navigation is safe and unobstructed, and in the winter, from the Canada line to its southern extremity, the firm ice forms a perfect and commodious highway for intercourse. Lake Champlain has no parellel in its peculiar beaiities, revealed in the variety, the majesty and exquisite loveliness of its scenery.^ On the east it is bounded by an undulating shore, rich and beauti- ful under a luxuriant culture ; and beyond this line, the horizon is limited by the bold and serrated outline of the Green Mountains. On the western shore, the dark and dislocated Adirondacs spread far into the in- 1 An eminent citizen of New York, whose extended travels had made him an intelligent observer of every quarter of the globe, once re- marked to me, that he had nowhere viewed scenery which compared with the beauties of Champlain. That of Lake Constance, he added, was its nearest approach. 10 PIONEER HISTORY OF terior — at various points projecting their jagged spurs into the lake, and often presenting lofty headlands, waving with forests or frowning in bleak masses of naked granite. Wide fields spread between these headlands, teeming with flocks and herds, and redo- lent in beauty and fertility. In its central and widest part, the lake is nearly fifteen miles broad. Innumer- able islands variegate and adorn the scene. Some arc mere rocky shafts shooting up from the surfiicc of the waters ; others, decked in their native emeralds, gleam like gems upon the bosom of the lake ; while others of alluvial formation, glow in their soft and gentle loveliness, and are unsurpassed in their exuberant fertility. If the borders of this lake are thus transcendent in their natural features of beauty and magniticence, around no other section of the country cluster histori- cal associations so brilliant and memorable. In the annals of a century and a half, by successive deeds of daring, by bloody forays, by the romances of border warfare, by the conflicts of fleets and armies, the waters and the shores of Champlain have been conse- crated as the classic ground of America. In those merciless contests, in which France and England were the allies of savage tribes ; in the long and sanguin- ary conflicts between those great powers ; in the war of the Revolution, and that of 1812, the whole course of the lake was stained with blood, and emblazoned by feats of glory. The muse of history will hereafter delight to expatiate amid these scenes. "When Samuel Champlain, in 1609, entered upon the waters which have perpetuated his name, silence THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 11 and solitude brooded over tlic beautiful scene ; not a solitary Indian wigwam relieved its desolation and stillness. Notwithstanding tlie beauty and fertility of the environs of the lake, and the exuberance of its game and fislieries, ruthless invasion had driven its savage population into the recesses of the forests, and beyond the mountain barriers, for protection. The long and narrow track of the lake, adapted to the transit of the light canoe, had opened a pathway be- tween hostile tribes, in their perpetual missions of re- ciprocal slaughter and rapine. The Indian, doubtless in reference to this fact, gave to the lake the striking and appropriate name, Caniadere-Guarante, that is, The lake that is the gate of the countr3\ From the discovery of Champlain to the present hour, except one brief interval, its character and position has been unchanged. Its waters have ever been the portals of alien and often hostile nations. Along its highway the stealthy march of murderous bands have passed, to be precipitated upon the slumbering settlements of a foe. Fleets of canoes and batteaux in summer have glided over its pure waters on errands of blood and rapine. In winter its crystal pavement aftbrded an easy pathway to the invader; or if deep snows rested upon the ice, the snow shoe left scarcely an im- press to betray his transit. By this track the French, with their savage associates, traversed the lake, and penetrating the gorges of the Green Mountains, de- vasted, amid the snows and storms of winter, the fair- est villages of New England. Clothed in the pomp and panoply of modern warfare, vast armies have gathered upon the sequestered shores of Champlain, 12 PIONEER HISTORY OF guided by the policy, and stimulated by the feuds of the old world. The annals of Lake Champlaiu is a gory record of mutual atrocities. The sanguinary raids of the French and Hurons were not more rapa- cious and pitiless, than the incursions of the English and the Mohawks upon the fertile fields of Canada, amid their joyous harvests. Until the occupation of Crown Point by France, neither power had established any permanent or tangi- ble possession upon the shores of Champlaiu. This territory had been a debatable ground, claimed by both under artificial or imaginary titles, until the treaty of Utrecht, when it was virtually recognized to be embraced in the domains of the Iroquois, and un- der the protectorate of England. Although neither France nor England yielded to the claims of the other, each comprehended the vast importance of securing these " gates " to the possessions of its rival. Influ- enced by these views, the government of Canada, dis- regarding the obligations of treaties, and the restraints of a profound peace, suddenly advanced, in the year 1731, up the lake, and seized, by a military force at first, a promontory opposite Crown Point, and, soon after, that position itself. It had not, at an earlier period, been formally occupied, but had long been regarded as a prominent position in the official papers of both nations. The Crown Point of history, is a narrow peninsula, forming a section of the modern town of that name, which is remarkable for its high agricultural fertility, and for the exceeding loveliness of the landscapes its diversified scenery presents. The peninsula is formed THE CUAMPLAIN VALLEY. 13 by Buhvagga bay, a broad estuary on the west, and by the lake upon the east, which liere abruptly changes its course at nearly right angles, and from a wide ex- panse at the north, is compressed into a narrow chan- nel scarcely a fourth of a mile in width. The most unpracticed eye would at once perceive that the posi- tion commanded the navigation of the lake. A wild waste of forests extended on both sides of the lake, from the settlements on the Hudson, to the hamlets of Canada. This wilderness was traversed in every direction by impassable mountains, and deep gorges, and rapid streams. 'No track penetrated its solitudes except the path of the Indian. The prominence of Crown Point in the annals of Lake Champlain, and its connection with the narra- tive of Mr. Gilliland, demand a glance at its histoiy. The most decisive evidence exists of the presence, at some former period, of a large and civilized commu- nity in the vicinity of Crown Point. Tradition, cor- roborated by ancient papers, estimates this population to have ranged from fifteen hundred to three thousand persons. A street may still be traced, extending a long distance from the point towards the main land, raised and covered with broken stones, similar to the McAdam roads of the present day. The ruins of cel- lars line this street on each side. Their compact arrangement, and the narrowness of the avenue, as- similate its appearance to the ancient villages in Canada founded by the French. Indications are pal- pable, that along the margin of the bay, the ground has been graded and formed into an artificial slope. The shore, shelving to the water, had been prepared for 14 PIONEER HISTORY OF the accommodation of fleets of flat bottomed batteaux and canoes, wliicli at an early day navigated the lake. Fragments of lofty stone walls, adapted to the enclo- sure of gardens and orchards, are still visible. Fruit trees in the memory of living men flourished upon these grounds. Sidewalks, formed of common flag- ging, smooth and worn, remain as they were left by the generation, who once thronged them in the active vocations of life. These, combined with numerous other impressive evidences, imparted conviction to my own mind (when a few years since I explored the scene, under the most intelligent guidance), that Crown Point, previous to the Revolution, was a popu- lous and important village.^ "We know that a prosper- ous trafiic prevailed between the French and British possessions, anterior to the year 1700, and that Lake Champlain was the medium of that intercourse. May we not assume that Crown Point had become, under the influence of this traffic, a flourishing mart, in which the commodities of the alien colonies were in- terchanged, and where the Indians congregated from 1 A large tract of land, lying between Crown Point and Ticonderoga, was cleared and cultivated during the French occupation. The heavy forests which now stand in places upon this territory, bear unmistak- able evidence that they are of a second growth. The ruins of a ceme- tery, and the vestiges of numerous edifices, with other indications, show that this whole area of country had been at a former period thickly populated. Nathan Beaman, the youthful guide of Ethan Allen, informed Mr. Sheldon that he recollected several stores trans- acting business at Crown Point previous to the year 1775. About that period, he rowed a party from Vermont to Crown Point, on some festive occasion, at the house of a Mr. Bentzle, and spoke of seeing silver plate upon the table, with other appliances of wealth and lux- ury iu the village. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 15 ■wide hunting grounds to trade tlieir peltries. A sin- gle farm house uow occupies the peninsula of Crown Point, and flocks of sheep graze upon the soil where was marshaled the legions of France and England. While I contemplated the ruins of St. Frederic, cattle were ruminating in its bastion, and a solitary robin was twittering in the branches of a tree, whose roots were interlaced among the rocks of its ramparts. The incompetent government of i!^ew York, either ignorant or careless of this audacious usurpation by the French arms, remained inactive, until the formid- able fortress was erected at Crown Point, that secured to France the dominion of the lake. It is not neces- sary to recite the pretences by which these acts were excused or explained, nor the alarm and agitation they caused in 'New England, and which were at length aroused in the province which should have been the first to oppose such aggressions. The colonies invoked in vain the attention of Eng- land to these encroachments. In vain did they pro- claim to the home government, that the safety and colonial existence of New York and IsTew England were imperiled by the hostile occupation of Crown Point. The British ministry was unconscious of the nascent greatness of America ; Walpole could detect no germ of future empire in the wilderness of the new world. While the ignoble treaty of Aix La Chapelle relinquished to France the fortress of Louisburgh, purchased by the blood and treasures of New England, Crown Point, without a protest, was left in the posses- sion of the power that grasped at the conquest of the western continent. 16 PIONEER HISTORY OF Not until 1755 did the British government in a de- cidecl tone demand the demolition of the works at Oro n Point. Diplomacy, after the submission of a quarter of a century, could not retrieve a position lost by imbecility or recklessness. The practical reply to these protests by France, was the erection in the same year of Fort Carillon,^ upon the bold and rocky cliffs of Ticonderoga. This post, more menacing than the occupation of Crown Point to the British possession, and destined to a terrible celebrity, became the most extensive and magnificent fortress in America. "Accumulated acts of neglect and injustice of the mother country, such as these, prepared and matured the colonies for independence. Had they been cher- ished by the guardian care of England, they might have rested on her arm in effeminacy and depend- ence. Abandoned to the suggestions of their own policy, they were taught by these exigencies high and practical lessons of self-government. Compelled by a common danger to a mutual consultation and concert- ed action, they were admonished of the necessity and strength of a confederated union. Compelled to rely alone for protection and safety upon their own arms and energies, they were prompt to resist aggression and to avenge injuries. The deep fountains of their capacities were revealed to themselves, by the parsi- monious policy of England, that constrained the colo- nies to resort to their own domestic resources in their tection and defence. 1 Carillon seems to imply the same signification as che-onderoga, the original of Ticonderoga — noisy chimes — in allusion, doubtless, to the brawling waters mid the rocks in tlie outlet of Lake George. THE CHAMPLAIN YALLEY. 17 "Had Canada been a British Province, New Eng- land and jSTew York might have been exemp from the appalling scenes of carnage and suffering v,:]iich are since impressed on their history ; but the very ex- posure and danger of their position, and the assaults and cruelty of a powerful and daring enemy, endowed them with a lofty moral and physical courage ; with endurance in suffering; with boldness and wisdom in council, and promptitude and decision in action. These are the elements of freedom. Men who literally tilled the earth with the musket at their side, were ripening for any emergency, and prepared to defend the he- ritage endeared to them by their blood and sorrows, against every foe and any wrong. The career of the colonies, neglected, contemned and suffering, was to them a baptism of blood and sorrow, that conse- crated a free and ennobled spirit, equal to any sacrifice or any conflict. The wars into which the colonies were forced by this policy of England and the prox- imity of the French provinces, afforded the severe school for their military education. The shores of Lake Champlain afforded the nursery of future heroes of the Kevolution. The military spirit was here en- kindled, that in after years blazed at Bunker Hill, and Bennington, and Saratoga; and here, amid victory and defeat, the science and tactics of Europe were inculcated and diffused throughout the broad colo- nies. " If Washington was taught, on the banks of the Monongahela, to lead armies and to achieve the inde- pendence of his country, Putnam and Stark, Pomeroy and Prescott, amid the forests and morasses of Hori- 18 PIONEER HISTORY OF con and Cliamplain, and beneath the walls of Ticon- deroga, were formed to guide and to conquer in the battles of freedom. Human wisdom, in her philoso- phy, may pause to contemplate these striking and singular coincidences, and to trace these causes to their momentous results ; but the eye of faith will reverence them, as the hidden workings of an overrul- ing and beneficent Providence, who, in these events, .was unfolding the elements and forming the agents of a mighty revolution, destined not only to sever a king- dom but to change the course of human events."^ My space will not allow me to recall the partizan achievements of Rogers, of Putnam and Stark; the wounds and captivity of Dieskeau, on a field whose memory swells and exults the American heart — for there the provincialists of the colonies, led by their own citizen, first met on an equal field and vanquished the trained veterans of Europe; nor the fame of John- son ; nor the heroic deaths of Howe and Townsend ; nor the bloody assault of Abercrombie ; nor the glory and shame of Montcalm^; nor the plodding endu- rance of Amherst; nor, in later years, the triumph of Burgoyne. These names all beam upon the pages 1 Survey of Essex County, Trans. N. Y. Ag. Society, 1852, pages 668-69. ■^ Montcalm is one of the most brilliant and heroic characters that glitters in our colonial history. His fame is obscured by one or two acts of imputed ferocity, from which it has never been successfully vindicated. Until its glorious last act, his life was one unbroken se- ries of triumphs and successes. A single episode will illustrate its picturesque and dramatic scenes. Preparatory to the attack upon Fort William Henry, he assembled at Montreal the Indian tribes, gathered from Lake Superior to Acadia. Montcalm moved in their THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 19 of history. Deeds uccomplislied here, illustrate a brilliant age. In October, 1759, the naval armament of Amherst attacked the French flotilla, almost on the theatre, in another century, of MacDonough's victory, and in its destruction, extinguished the last vestige of the domination of France upon the waters of Cham- •plain. The massive ruins of Fort Carillon still attest its magnitude and strength. The course of the trenches of the outer works at Ticonderoga, may readily be distinguished. The line of the ramparts along the beetling clifls, is still visible ; parts of the battlements yet stand ; sections of the stone barracks are stand- ing; the bakery is in a state of good preservation and the magazine partially remains. At Crown Point the works are in better preservation. The mounds of St. Frederic may be discerned; the oven, the covered way and the magazine are easily distinguished. The fort erected by Amherst, with a lavish prodigality, might be restored. Portions of the vast quadrangular barracks yet stand. The walls are still quite perfect, but the buildings are roofless, without floors, and the beams charred and blackened. The traveler may read upon the walls the idle scribbling of the soldier more savage dances, brandishing the tomahawk as he chanted their war songs ; he captivated their hearts by his largesses and excited their fierce passions by visions of revenge and rapine. These warriors embarked in two hundred canoes, each bearing the pennon of a distinct tribe, and advanced with all barbaric pomp. The Catholic priests accompanied their neophytes, and while the Indian war chant strangely mingled with the hymn of the missionary, the flotilla passed up Lake Champlain to unite its rude forces with the veteran cohorts of Montcalm. 20 PIONEER HISTORY OF than a century ago. Eacli room contains a broad and lofty fire-place. The garrison well, nearly one hun- dred feet in depth, is almost entire. The covered way leading to the lake, although much decayed, may still be traced. An ordinance of the king of France, in 1676, au- thorized the issuing of grants of land situated m Canada, attached to the crown. Assuming that the sovereignty of France embraced the borders of Lake Charaplain, the government of Canada caused a sur- vey to be made of the lake and the adjacent territory the year after the occupation of Crown Point. Many of the impressive and beautiful names of the islands, promontories and other topographical features are derived from that survey. Its labors also resulted in the publication, at Montreal, in the year 1748, of a map and chart, which have scarcely been equalled by any of a later date in its accuracy and scientific aspect and minuteness. Extensive grants, conferred under the ordinance of 1676, are delineated on that map, upon both sides of the lake. A seigniory was granted in 1737, to the Sieur Robert, which embraced the ter- ritory near the Boquet, subsequently patented to William Gilliland, and included a large proportion of the modern towns of Essex and Willsboro. The tract was soon after located and allotted by an oflicial surveyor; but we possess no distinct evidence that any of these grants were possessed in any permanent and tangible occupation north of Crown Point. When the peace of 1762 had been ratified by the ces- sion of Canada to GreatBritain, Lake Champlain was no longer the portal between hostile nations. A royal THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 21 proclamation, of Oct. 7th, 1763, autliorizecl the colonial governors to issue grants of land upon the borders of the lake to the reduced officers and soldiers who had served in the Canadian campaigns. By the terms of these grants, the holders were empowered to make locations on any unappropriated lands. Numerous patents were issued in accordance with this proclama- tion, and many locations under them came in contlict with titles based on the grants established during the French intrusion. Stimulated by the immensely enhanced value of these lands, numbers of fictitious grants were asserted, and others revived, which had been repudiated by the French officials and forfeited by non-user ; while some had been held in honest suspension, awaiting the pro- gress of events. Another class, derived from the ordinance of France, and which had been preserved by actual possession, were recognized by the colonial government. Many of these were violated" by loca- tions of grants issued in pursuance of the royal pro- clamation of 1763. The adjustment of the conflicting rights of the patentees, under these adverse claims, was extremely embarrassing and difficult. The British authorities, in a proper regard to justice and public faith, suspended the issuing of all patents for lands situated north of Crown Point, claimed under any French grants. Eng- land, in great tenderness and liberality towards the claimants under these grants, refused to assume the obvious position, that the authority of France rested on mere usurpation, and her government possessing no risrhts on the shores of the lake, could neither 22 PIONEER HISTORY OF create or convey any. Many of the French claims were ultimately rejected on account of the forfeitures of the conditions upon which their tenures depended ; others were compromised by grants to the claimants of land of equal value in Canada. These questions agitated the colonies for several years and produced anxious discussions in the royal councils at home. They necessarily retarded the pro- gress and impaired the prosperity of the region they affected. The multiplicity and magnitude of the grants issued under the proclamation of 1763 ; the existence of these conflicting interests, and the repugnance generally of the grantees of these rights, to locate and occupy them formally, combined to depress their value, and threw them in great numbers upon the market for sale. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 23 WILLIAM GILLILAND. Sucli wastlae posture of the couutiywlien the atten- tion of William Gilliland, a prosperous merchant of New York, was attracted to it, with the view of large investments in the military rights referred to, and their location in that region.^ He was born about the year 1734, of respectable parents, whose residence was Caddy, near the city of Armagh, Ireland. William was in childhood at the death of his father, who left several other children. His mother married a second time, a man named Watson, who, by improvidence or fraudulent practices, squandered most of the patrimony of the family. A remnant was preserved through the early intelligence and energy of young Gilliland. He had received a liberal education at the literary institu- tions in Armagh. His cultivated mind, fine person and polished manners, combined with excellent qual- ities of heart, soon secured him an elevated position and high esteem in the society of that city. He here became associated with a young lady of noble birth, and an heiress, the Lady Betsy Eckles. A mutual and warm attachment followed this acquaintance. The disparity of birth and fortune was an insuperable barrier to the fulfilment of their wishes. The oftended J I am chiefly indebted to the manuscript of Mr. Sheldon for the events recorded in the early life of Gilliland. 24 THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. family of the lad j interposed with so vigorous an ap- plication of power, as to effect her seclusion and, from some unexplained cause, the expatriation of Gilliland. Desponding, under these adverse events, he appears to have enlisted in the army, as the next trace I can dis- cern of him is afforded by his discharge at Philadel- phia, in 1758, from the 35th regiment of the line, after a service of four years. He soon after arrived in New York, where his pathway of life was environed by dark- ness and difficulties. But, with a sanguine tempera- ment and determined purpose, he grappled with for- tune. Such qualities usually command success. Gilliland very soon obtained a position, although a subordinate one, in a mercantile house. At an early day, he formed a partnership with a merchant of wealth, by the name of Phagan, who belonged to the island of Jamaica, but was at that time residing in 'New York for the purpose of educating his children. The keen and vigorous capacity of Gilliland, with his active and energetic character, secured eminent success in his new vocation. A year scarcely elapsed, before he had secured the affections of Elizabeth Phagan, the beau- tiful and accomplished daughter of his wealthy part- ner. On the 8th of February, 1759, he received her hand in marriage, with fifteen hundred pounds, as her dowry, which was esteemed a large sum in the colony at that period. The brilliant mercantile success which had rewarded the intelligence and enterprise of Gilli- land, did not satisfy his ambition. The recollection of the magnificent baronial estates of his native land, and the observation of the vast manors of the southern THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 25 section of New York, enkindled the purpose of secur- incr to himself the possession of wide domains in the wikls of America. In his visions of the future, he doubtless contemplated the station of a great land- holder, exerting a feudal authority and enjoying afflu- ence and power, derived from a subservient tenantry. We may only conjecture, how much the desire of triumphing over those who once so severely rebuked his alleged presumption, may have stimulated these designs. His schemes embraced a broad scope, but their foundations were laid with such skill and fore- cast, and his measures conducted with so much ability, that none could reasonably doubt of their ultimate consummation. While this new career was opening to Mr. Gilliland, he be^an to develop those uncommon powers of mind and remarkable traits of character, which were calcu- lated to achieve a high position in the affairs of his adopted country. But instead of this, we shall see the storms of the Revolution sweeping in desolating tempests over his estates, and his fortunes at length blasted, by the violence of enemies, by the treachery of friends, and by accumulated woes. An opportunity soon occurred for the gratification of the designs which Gilliland had so long cherished. Numerous officers and privates who held rights under the pro- clamation I have mentioned, resided in the city of 'New Yo|k. Many, unwilling to occupy the lands in the wilderness to which they were entitled, preferred to sell their claims at an exceedingly low rate. At that epoch, western and central New York was the domain of the Indian. Emigration had only peue- 4 26 PIONEER HISTORY OF tratecl its fertile regions along the valley of the Mo- hawk, and in a few and scattered settlements west of Albany. The environs of Lake Champlain were open to occupation and free from the appalling dread of a con- tiguous savage foe. Lying upon the confines of the great highway between the Canadian provinces and the British colonies, this region was easily accessible and eminently attractive, by the exquisite beauty of the country, from the fertility of many parts of it, and by the exuberance of its game and fish. In accord- ance with the plans he had matured, Gilliland, either personally or by competent agents, made a careful exploration of the borders of the lake, and deter- mined to purchase extensively, these military rights, and locate them in that region. He decided to place his first location on the lake shore, between the River Boquet and Split Rock, then, in his own lan- guage, "a howling wilderness, more than one hun- dred miles removed from any Christian settlement, except the military posts of Ticonderoga and Crown Point." His earliest purchase was from a Dr. Joseph Field, of 2,000 acres, for which he paid <£100. This right he located on the south side and adjoining the River Boquet. Subsequently, he made seven other purchas- es, embracing about 1,500 acres. These rights were laid in a contiguous tract, extending from a point about one-half a mile north of the river to James Judd's patent, near Split Rock, on a front upon the lake of more than six miles, and ranging from three to four miles in the interior. Mr. Sheldon says, "these THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 27 purchases were made in 1764, and granted and sur- veyed the following year." " The plan of settlement adopted by Mr. Gilliland, was generally to hold the land in fee and lease to ten- ants at a small annual rent. To accomplish this policy, it was necessary to use extraordinary exertion and lib- erality, to induce people to emigrate so far from their friends and home into a strange and distant wilderness. Having made his arrangements for the purchases, he commenced preparations to transport his colony to his new possessions. With a clear-sighted perception of future necessities, he appears to have foreseen all things best adapted to the comfort and progress of the settlement, and with a generous liberality, to have ottered such inducements as soon enlisted a company of enlightened mechanics and enterprising laborers, such as were best fitted to assist and benefit each other and promote the general good. With assorted supplies of tools, implements, provisions, &c , he set out from New York, May 10th, 1768." From this date, we possess an exact chart for several years, of the current events connected with the policy and settlement of Mr. Gilliland, afforded by his minute journal, of a most valuable and interesting character, and also many other cotemporaneous papers. I pro- pose to present a rapid glance at the cccurrences illustrating his colonization, but the comments and explanations they suggest, I shall postpone, to be incorporated with the notes prepared to those docu- ments. Before proceeding, however, with this sketch, I will present a paper of very considerable interest, which I 28 PIONEER HISTORY OF discovered among the writings left by Mr. Gilliland and bearing his initials. The address indicates the existence at that period, of an important benevolent institution, of wViich this age, I think, has no other information. The paper is strong and practical in its views, and its suggestions are marked b}^ the forecast and sagacity which distinguish all the early produc- tions of the author. March 1^' 1765 To the Society for promoting Arts Agriculture and Aeconomy in the Province of New York Gentlemen — With great pleasure do I observe the attention you pay to the settlement of the wilderness lands in this Province ; this has been too long neglect- ed ; we have not availed ourselves of the many advan- tages which our convenient situation gave us over our neighbouring colonies, otherwise the interior and remote parts of our government would be more closely inhabited than theirs. I shall not enter into a tedious enumeration of the many and great advantages which must unavoidably redound to Great Britain, from the early settlement of the waste lands in America ; it is sufficient to observe, that by it the revenues of the crown are considerably augmented with the heavy Quit-rents which the lands are chargeable with after settlement, (particularly in this Province,) as are the inhabitants of Great Britain by the additional consumption of their manufactures, especialy in the woolen branch, which last we may reasonably suppose will be very great, as it is almost imposible for those who settle on new lands, to keep THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 29 their sheep from being devoured by the wolves, and the other rapacious beasts of the wilderness ; even if there was good pasturage for them there ; and it is equally impossible for the inhabitants in the northern part of this Province to exist without warm coverings of woolen both night and day; in a word, it is absurd to imagine, that Great Britain would put herself to the vast expense of defending and protecting her domin- ions in America, with no other view than to suffer them to remain in their native wild and desert state, and thereby dedicate them to no other purpose, but to accommodate the savages and beasts of the forest. I now beg leave gentlemen to drop a hint to you concerning the settlement of the remote lands in this Province. Those I account remote, that are situated to the northward of Fort Edward ; but particularly those that lie farther north than the head of South Bay. It is not to be expected that people in good circum- stances will think of settling there, nor any indeed but those of the poorest sort. Let us therefore take such measures as may contri- bute to enable such to convey themselves with their families and effects to their intended residence in those parts, at the least expense. With respect to those who settle on the lands which lie between the head of South Bay and the northern bounds of this Province (which is an extent of coun- try not less than 150 miles in length) it is highly necessary to have the carriage made easy, in order, not alone for the particular accommodation of themselves and their families, but likewise that they may be in- 30 PIONEER HISTORY OF duced to take their necessary household furniture and implements of husbandry from this city; hitherto and even now, the general thoroughfare is across Lake George, and from thence to Lake Champlain there is a troublesome long carriage; this extremely embarasses travelers, especialy those who are incumbered with any kind of effects, for it is with vast delay and difficulty they can obtain boats to convey them across Lake George ; at landing of Ticonderiga, they are vexatiously delayed and embaressed in getting their baggage or merchan- dize conveyed across the carrying place, and when they at length get to Ticonderigo fort with very great trouble, loss of time and expense they have still the greatest trouble and difficulty to surmount, in pro- curing boats to carry them from thence to Crown- point, where they will be as much at a loss as ever, if they have occasion to proceed further. This I ^peak from the experience of myself with many others. Li order therefore to avoid this Labyrinth of fatigue, anxiety, trouble, and expense, I would beg leave warmly to recommend South Bay as the most easy and natural thorough-fare from here to Lake Champlain. All that is wanting to render it a most convenient communication, is to finish a part of the road from Fort Edward to the head of South Bay and as this may be effected at a very trifling expense it ought to be completed this ensuing spring, as in all likelihood great numbers of people will go up to settle in those parts next summer. But as it would be of such general utility to the Province it ought to be done at the provincial charge and therefore by you gentlemen recommended to the notice of the General Assembly. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 31 Thus might we convey our furniture, apparel trades- men tools and implements of husbandry from hence to Albany b^^ water; from thence to South Bay by an easy land carriage, only about seventy miles and there embark on board any vessel not exceeding two hun- dred tons burden, which would have a good navigation to the lands as far northerly as this Province extends ; and in respect to the particular encouragement which those ought to have from the Province who attempt a settlement even on its most northerly frontier, I hum- bly think the least that could be offered is to defray the expense of the transporting the people and their effects from hence to the land on whicli they settle, and to furnish the poorest of them with bread and salt for the first year ; and this our Representatives in Assembly would doubtless agree to, if it were recom- mended to their consideration by gentlemen who so highly merit their applause and esteem, as do the wor- thy members of the New York society. Before I conclude, please to accept of one thought which I hope you'll judge worthy of your considera- tion ; that is in regard to your proposed benificience of lending out looms, spinning-wheels and reels, to the poor which I conceive ought to have the first privilege as settlers in the most remote parts of the Province, and they chiefly for its principal object. I am Gent" • Yours &c. W. G. As I stated, Mr. Gilliland left New York on the 10th of May, 1765. He reached Albany on the 13th, and was compelled to adopt another method of trans- porting his colony and their effects. He decided to 32 PIONEER HISTORY OF proceed np theHndsontoFortEdwarclbjbatteaux,witli a part; while several of the men should drive the cattle which he had purchased and collected at Albany by land. He was obliged to procure the boats from Schenectady and transport tliem across the plains by wagons to the Hudson. The ascent of the river, against a rapid current and by a shallow and tortuous channel, was slow^ and ar- duous, but was accomplished by the toil of eight days. The cb'ove of cattle had alreadj'^ reached Fort Edward. He emploj^ed the oxen in the transportation of the goods from that place to Lake George, which occupied two clays. The sail down this beautiful and picturesque lake to the landing at Ticonderoga, required two days, and two more days were employed in the transit by land to Lake Champlain. Reembarking, the colony proceeded directly to the Boquet, which they reached on the 8th of June, after a laborious and perilous journey of thirty days from New York. One batteau was loaded with boards and timber at Ticonderoga. The saw mill which had been constructed during the French occupation, and which afforded so conspicuous a position at the assault of Abercrombie, still re- mained, and afforded the only means of procuring the materials in the region. After remaining at the mouth of the river to rest and prepare for their settle- ment, the colony proceeded up the river to an island liaTf a mile below the falls, where they encamped. They called it Camp Island, and the name has been perpetuated. Operations were at once com- menced in opening a road to the falls, and by the 15th of June, ground had been cleared, logs cut and the erection began of a house, 44 feet by 22 feet. This THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 33 was the first dwelling built by civilized man between Crown Point and the line of Canada. The cattle, in the mean time, had been driven to Crown Point, and there swam the lake, and were again driven on the east shore to a point opposite Split Rock, which Mr. Gilliland, with more euphony, calls the Cloven Rock, and which was the Roche Rendu of the French, and were there ferried across the lake, by some transient " men of jSTew England," and pro- ceeded through the pathless woods to Willsboro' Falls, then without a distinctive name. A portion of the cattle were supported here upon leaves of the trees fallen in clearing the land, while the greater part were turned loose to find their own subsistence in the forest. On the first cursory examination of the falls, which from the supposed water power they formed, had been chiefiy instrumental in attracting Mr. Gilliland to the locality, the architect pronounced it " impracticable to erect mills there, except at vast expense." ''Upon which," he says, "we returned a good deal dejected to the people." This was the first and almost only note of despondency he uttered, amid the trials and perplexities of his early labors. The next day, after a more careful survey, it was announced "that several mills might be ei'ected there at small expense, which opinion was afterwards ascertained to be well founded." With characteristic ardor and prcmiptitude, the suc- ceeding day, the 10th of June, he records, " our four carpenters began to cut and square timber for the mill ; the other hands being employed in cutting wood for coals, clearing land, &c." The house and mill being in successful progress, every energy was im- 5 34 PIONEER HISTORY OF parted to the general improvement. The conntry was explored to determine its resources. Game was fomid abundant in the woods ; salmon thronged the river ; beaver meadows were discovered and hay made upon them to secure fodder for the approaching winter. The cattle, at the proper season, were driven to these mea- dows and most of the hay was consumed there. The saw mill was completed in the latter part of autumn. It was erected near the lower part of the falls, upon the site still occupied by a forge. The water was conducted to it through a flume, leading from a wing dam, which projected a part way across the river. The mill was constructed of the boards and timber brought from Ticonderoga. On the 23d of July, Mr. Gilliland, in company with the Rev. George Henry, a clergyman who had united with the colony at New York, left Milltown, on a visit to Quebec. He returned, bringing provisions and supplies from Montreal. Mr. Henry was attacked by a severe sickness and had remained in Canada. Mr. Gilliland, whose keen vision was always directed to the interests of his new possessions, stopped at the Sorel Eiver to examine its capacities, and with his own hand sounded several miles of the channel above its mouth, "because it communicated with Lake Champlain." He records in his jonrnal highly practical and judi- cious views on the subject of this navigation, and upon the qualities of the adjacent country. On his return, he devoted considerable time to the survey and establishment of the boundaries and num- bering pf a tier of lots, extending from the mouth of the Boquet along the shore of the lake to Judd's THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. - 35 Patent. The work appears to have been executed with much skill and precision. His journal contains a minute record of the survey of twenty-live lots, rang- ing in their contents from one to two hundred acres, with the number, metes and bounds of each. Several of these lots were immediatel}^ taken up by settlers upon leases, but owing to the advanced season, no buildings were erected upon them until the next year. On the 6tli day of October, 1765, Gilliland com- menced the exploration of his domains lying north of the Boquet. His copious journal evinces that nothing escaped his vigilance, and that he examined the terri- tory with the science of an engineer, and with the most sagacious appreciation of its properties and re- sources. His tour extended to Cumberland Head. I find no difficulty in tracing his route from the accuracy of the descriptions embraced in his journal, and have identified the various localities by their modern names in my notes explanator}- of the journal. While engaged in this exploration, Gilliland ad- vanced up the An Sable river as far as its walled banks. In a highly correct and graphic description of that amazing scene, which may be classed among the natural wonders of the continent, we have the earliest notice of it, which probably exists. Mr. Sheldon states, that Gilliland had already located 4,500 acres in the modern town of Westport, which he called Bessboro', from the name of a daughter. Several thousand more he laid out on both sides of the Salmon River. This location ^'lie named Janesboro,' 1 It appears from a document wliich Las been preserved by the care of Dr. O'Callaghau, that Gilliland had, previous to his purchases, locat- 36 • PIONEER HISTORY OF and that at Cumberland Head, Charlottesboro', after two other daughters. Elizabeth, the site of the beau- tiful village of Essex, was named from a wife or daughter ; Jimmy's Point, in the same vicinity, had reference to his brother James Gilliland. The town of Willsboro' yet commemorates his own name, and when it was divided, Elizabethtown perpetuated the memory of his wife. This practice of nomenclature flowed, doubtless, from those warm and active domes- tic aftections, of which we trace evidences in all the acts and sentiments of his life. Mr. Gilliland had, at this time, located twelve grants, seven of which were in Willsboro', two at Westport, and the remainder at Salmon river, in addition to his claims on Cumberland Head and in other localities. In November of this year, Gilliland returned to his family in ^N'ew York, with the purpose of removing them to his estate in the wilderness on the following spring. He left his affairs upon Champlain in charge of his half-brother, Watson, upon whom he confers the name and office of steward. The cattle which had been turned into the forest on the arrival of the colony, were reclaimed with difficulty on the approach of win- ter, and in a condition almost as wild as the native denizens of the woods. The first winter was spent by these pioneers in the pathless wilds of northern New York, without suftering or remarkable incident. Their time was pleasantly occupied in attending to their cattle, cutting and drawing logs to the saw mill, and in preparing timber for the construction of their build- ed a lot near Split Rock, which I presume was Soldier's donative from the Government. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 37 ings. In January, 1766, the hay was drawn upon the ice to Milltown from a beaver meadow, two miles from Split Rock. A part of the settlers, discontented in their secluded wilderness homes, appear to have formed a combination, in the absence of Gilliland, to abandon the settlement, and to cancel forcibly their engage- ments and liabilities. Several of them on the first of March approached Watson, armed, and in a violent and menacing manner demanded the rendition of their notes and the payment of large fictitious claims, threat- ening in the event of a refusal to leave the settlement carrying with them all the property in their possession. The steward adroitly evaded their claims and privately proceeded to Crown Point, where he procured a file of soldiers, and returned to Willsboro'. He found the settlement in confusion. Two of the malcontents with their families and effects had left, and others were in active preparation for their flight to Canada, with their oxen shod and goods arranged. The cattle were seized, driven to Milltown "and stamped with the letters W. G." The fugitives were overtaken at Perue Bay, and the property recovered, but they for the time eftected their escape. Most of them appear ultimately to have returned to their allegiance. During the spring the supply of the colony began to fail, but were replenished by the steward from Crown Point. As soon as the opening season per- mitted the settlers applied all their exertion m erect- ing buildings and forming improvements upon their newly acquired farms. The first house upon these lots, according to the traditions of the country, was erected April 14th, 1766, for Robert McAuley, on the north 38 PIONEER HISTORY OF bank of Bachellor's Creek ; others rapidly succeeded until the whole territory between the Boqiiet and Split Rock was studded by the neat cabins of the pioneers. Mr. Gillihind arrived at Milltown on the 22d of June with liis family and two batteaux, freighted with furniture and supplies.^ They left New York on the 28th of April, but the journey had been thus protracted by his own severe sickness, and by a most afflictive incident. A batteau, which accompanied Mr. Gilli- land, containing the family of the Rev. Mr. Henry of Quebec, with a young and lovely daughter of Gilli- land, aged six years, became entangled in tlie top of a Mien tree, near Stillwater, and by the force of the current was upset and sunk. The daughter of Mr. Gilliland and a son of Mr. Henry were lost. The return of the proprietor infused a fresh spirit and imparted a new and vigorous impulse to the little commonwealth. Tlie colony advanced in prosperity and improvement. The saw-mill was in successful operation and supplied all the demands of the colony for lumber. A smithery had been erected. The gar- dens had been planted. . The government, political as well as moral, was in the exclusive control of the pro- prietor. Its administration seems to have been patri- archal, although we occasionally discern glimpses of an assumption of a feudal authority, which appears, in that age, to have been asserted to some extent by most of the remote large landholders of the colonies. Mr. Gilliland now held the office of justice of the peace, 1 He records their arrival in ]iis journal and adds, with characteristic fervor, " Mrs. Elizabeth Gilliland, my spouse, being the first lady of our family that landed iu AVillsboro." THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 39 conferred by the colonial government, wliicli, in this primitive society, endowed him witli a plenitnde of authority, that essentially embraced the functions of counselor, judge and chancellor. By a royal ordinance of October 7th, 1763, the pa- rallel of 45° north had been established as the boundary line betweeen l^ew York and the province of Quebec. This ideal line was indefinite and controverted. In September, 1766, Mr. Gilliland met at Crown Point " Sir Henry Moore, governor of New York, General Carlton, governor of Quebec, Robert Harper, Esq., astronomer to the expedition, Philip Schuyler, Esq., afterwards the eminent commander of the Revolution- ary army, Count Fredenburgh, and other gentlemen constituting a commission to establish that boundary." The refined manners and general intelligence of Gilli- land, combined with his great familiarity with the affairs of the district, attracted the consideration of the conmiissioners. He was received into the dis- tinguished circle, and invited to associate himself in their labors. He attended "the congress," as he terms it, bearing an ample supply of provisions for the use of the party. The result of this commission was the removal of the boundary about three miles north of the line originally projected by the French surveyors. The line thus established was recognized, until the com- missioners, under the treaty of Ghent, ascertained that the boundary run by the French survey was on the true line of the forty-fifth degree. This feet illustrates the superiority, which we find developed along the whole tract of our colonial history, of the French offi- 40 PIONEER HISTORY OF cials, not only in their civil and military capacity, but in the attainments and skill of their scientific agents. On their return Governor Moore and suite visited Gilliland at Milltown. An incident occurred at this time which equally exhibits the decided character of Gilliland, and the habits of the age and country. He tells us in his journal that he "forewarned Fredenburgh against tres- passing on his lands opposite Valcour, in the presence of both governors." On the 9th, September, he makes this entry, "mustered up my men and set out, all being armed, for my lower tract, opposite Isle Valcour, to build a possession house, and to oppose Mr. Freden- burgh, should he attempt to make any encroachments on ray land there." The demonstration was success- ful. Fredenburgh made extensive locations, but avoid- ed the tracts claimed by Gilliland.^ 1 Charles Fredexbuugh.^ — I am mainly indebted to the Hon. Peter S. Palmer, the historian of Lake Champlain, for the following facts in relation to Captain or Count Fredenburgh. The name in old documents is sometimes written Vredenburgh. Charles de Freden- burgh was a ne»dy German nobleman, who received about the year 1706 from the English government a war/'awf for tliirty thousand acres of land, lying contiguous to the mouth of the Saranac River. Tradition accounts for this munificent grant, by the fact that Fredenburgh mar- ried a lady, who had held an intimate relation with a royal personage, and that the grant was the price of his servility. It appears that de Fredenburgh located and surveyed the tract and moved on to it soon after the warrant was issued. His warrant was never consummated by a patent. De Fredenburgh erected a dwelling house a few rods east of the lower bridge in the village of Plattsburgh, near the scite of the United States Hotel. He also built a saw-mill at the falls, which are still known as the Fredenburgh Falls, on the Saranac, about three miles from its mouth. He remain- ed upon these lands until about the commencement of the Pievolu- THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 41 During the winter of 1767, Gilliland made an accu- rate and minute survey upon tlie ice, along tlie outer front of his possessions, and named the prominent topographical features. In the same season the first horse introduced into the colony was brought out for Mr. Gilliland from Canada, upon the ice. William McAuley, a relative of Gilliland, and one of his most efiicient coadjutors, occupied a farm where the village of Essex now stands. James Gilliland, a brother of the proprietor, and in later years a distinguished offi- cer in the American army, settled upon a lot on the north bank of the Boquet. ]S'o exciting occurrence disturbed for several years the quiet progress of the colony. Their agricultural and industrial improvements continued to progress; the settlement gradually increased in population ; vari- ous conveniences and refinements of civilized society were introduced, and schools were established. The site of the first school-house is still pointed out. Occa- sional religious sei'vices were eujoyed. Albany county was divided in 1772, and the northern section embrac- tion, when he moved his family to Montreal, and returned to the Saranac to protect his property. A short time after his return the house and mill were burnt down. He mysteriously disappeared, and was supposed to have been murdered, in order to disguise the robbery of silver plate and other valuable property in his possession. In 1784 Zephaniah Piatt and thirty-two other proprietors, who had acquired the rights to soldiers' bounties, under the state act of 1781, located these rights upon the land embraced by De Fredenburg's warrant. The boundaries of the Old Piattsburgh patent are precisely the same which De Fredenburg established under his grant. De Fredenburg's children, at a later period, applied to the legis- lature of New York, by petition, seeking to have their title to tlie tract recognized and established. The application, under the cir- cumstances, was necessarily fruitless. De Fredenburg was known and generally designated as the Count Fredenburg. 6 42 PIONEER HISTORY OF ing both sides of Lake Charaplain was organized into a new county, under the name of Charlotte. An event occurred in 1775, which is the most re- markable and interesting incident in the history of this humble colony, and singularly exemplified the tendency at the period of public sentiment towards democratic institutions, and its bias towards the ideas of self-government. This settlement it has been stated was embraced by the ideal boundaries of Charlotte county, but it pos- sessed no tangible or practical political organization. "Willsboro was not organized as a town until subse- quent to the Revolution. The colony was too remote to be reached by the protecting arm of the govern- ment; too unimportant to receive any specific legisla- tive action. The presence and ascendancy of some civil or political power was demanded in the changed condition and increased population of the district, by their common interest and for their mutual protectior and safety. Under these circumstances the settlers con- vened by general consent, on the 17th of March, in an assembly, and constituted themselves in eft'ect into a pure democracy. At this popular convention it was de- termined for several practical economical purposes to institute a local government. A system of social regu- lations was matured, formally adopted and ratified by the individual signatures of the settlers. It was made imperative upon all, and each was pledged fo abide by its provisions "by every tie of honor and honesty." ^ In contemplating this singular and impressive inci- dent, the mind instinctively reverts to the cabin of the Mayflower. This covenant embraced a far humbler 1 This remarkable instrumout and the proceedings under it, appear in the journal of Gilliland under tlieir appropriate dates. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 43 scope than the compact of 1620, yet its spirit was the same, and actuated by the holy idea of free, self-im- posed government. The officers of the association thus constituted, comprised a moderator, two superinten- dents of roads and bridges, three appraisers of damages, and a town clerk. "William Gillilaud was elected the first moderator. Some of the other officers it was resolved should perform their duties assisted by Mr. Gilliland. He was always recognized as a distinct and superior power in the colony. The earliest act of this privitive organization was an ordinance authorizing the construction of a bridge, by a tax to be paid in labor, and assessed upon the basis of property. Such was the ostensible and perhaps actual purposes of this popular movement. When, however, we reflect upon the condition of the colonies — ^the whole country agi- tated by the premonitorj^ throes of the volcano, which burst into a flame the succeeding month at Lexington, and that scarcely fifty days intervened between this event and the capture of Ticonderoga by Allen ; we cannot resist the conjecture that Gilliland at least con- templated higher and far different objects. His prom- inent position, his ardent patriotism, impassioned cha- racter, seem to justify this view. It is evident that he was familiar with the political movements of the period, and he was probably preparing the opinions of this secluded population to be moulded and con- trolled by his policy. Perhaps I may impute too m.uch significance to this event. A project, it is believed, had been for sometime agi- tated, which in its success would have formed a promi- nent feature in the annals of this colony, and been an event of grave interest and importance in the political history of the country. A scheme in which Gilliland 44 PIONEER HISTORY OF and the elder Skeene were the conspicuous agitators was discussed and essentially matured, which contem- plated the organization of a new colonial province. Its proposed limits were to extend from the St. Lawrence to the Connecticut, and resting at the north on the Canada line with an undetermined southern boundary. Skeene was to receive the appointment of governor of the projected province, and Crown Point was to be made its capital. I have formed my own convictions of the actuality of this scheme not alone from the traditions on the subject, nor the assurances of those who profess to have read documents which elucidated the whole mat- ter, but on other forcible considerations.^ The aspect at that period of the controversy relative to the Hampshire Grants rendered such an occurrence more than probable. Cotemporary annals appear to recognize the existence of some project of an analogous character and purpose.^ The diplomatic expedient of Allen, by which he asserted a claim to all Northern New York, may have been suggested by this idea. 1 'William Gilliland, the son of the pioneer, who at the commence- ment of the Revolution, was a boy of fourteen, and died at Salmon river in 1847, assured Mr. Sheldon that this project was a theme of frequent conversation with his father. That he had often himself read the correspondence between Skeene and his father on the subject, and that he had the letters of Skeene still in his possession. Mr. Gilli- land, who was a gentleman of great intelligence, engaged to find the letters and submit them to Mr. Sheldon, but he soon after died with- out having opportunity to fulfill the engagement. With the permis- sion and aid of the Messrs. Gilliland, who reside at Salmon River, on the original estate, I have carefully examined the family papers, but found no trace of these documents. I learn that on the death of the younger Gilliland a portion of his papers passed into the hands of another member of the family, and I have been unable to procure a further trace of them. 2 Williams's iTi'v'^ Vermont,- Haskins's t/o. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 45 Skeene, it is known, about this period visited England on some important political mission, and was upon his return to America, on the verge of the Revolu- tion, clothed, as he alleged, with the appointment "of Governor of Crown Point and Ticonderoga." ^ In this designation of the title of his government, is it not probable that he merely referred to these fortresses as prominent points embraced within his jurisdiction? Crown Point, it is asserted, was to be the capital of the projected province. This idea strengthens alike the opinion I have attempted to enforce of the importance of Crown Point at that period, and attaches form and coherence to this scheme. Skeene was at that time in possession of a large landed estate, not only at Skeensboro, but at other points in the environs of Lake Champlain. He held a tract in Essex county still known as Skeene's Patent. The consummation of this design might have in- volved the most momentous and sinister results at that peculiar epoch, when the contest between Vermont and JSTew York had acquired its deepest rancor and perilous vehemence. An occurrence of deep import suddenly dissolved all these visions of political pur- poses and speculations, for years arrested the progress of the miniature republic, whose embryo we have just been contemplating, and dispersed widely its people. A blow had been struck upon the shores of Champlain, which not only vibrated through the broad colonies, but was felt within the palatial walls of St. James. 1 Skeene's letter to Hawlcy, March 15, 1775. 46 PIONEER HISTORY OF THE EEVOLUTION. Haldibrancl, the governor of Crown Point and Ti- eonderoga, had announced to the government in 1773, that the fort at Crown Point "was entirely destroyed,", and that at Ticonderoga, in a "ruinous condition," and that both "could not cover fifty men in winter." The appeal to arms, which in April, 1775, had sounded from the plains of Lexington, seems to have sug- gested, simultaneously, to various patriotic individuals in the colonies, the idea of capturing these important fortresses in their dilapidated and exposed condition. Members of the provincial legislature of Connecti- cut on their individual responsibility raised funds to effect this object, and appointed a committee to pro- ceed to the scene, and to attempt thg execution of the plan. In the county of Berkshire a small force was collected, but at Bennington the fearless spirit and powerful influence of Ethan Allen was enlisted in the enterprise. An intrepid band of two hundred and seventy volunteers, all of whom except forty belonged to the Green Mountains, w^ere collected at Castleton on the 7th of May. At this moment Arnold, invested with plenary powers from the Massachusetts commit- tee of safety to accomplish the same object, appeared on the scene, and claimed the command of the expe- dition. A contest ensued which threatened to defeat the whole design, but was terminated by the troops refusing to proceed except under the lead of Allen, their tried and cherished leader. Arnold was con- strained to yield, and joined the force as an aid to the commander. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 47 The garrison of Ticonderoga was slumbering in profound security. To procure means of crossing the hake, Coh Jlerrick had been sent to Skeenesboro, and Remember Baker was to join them with boats from Otter creek ; but when the troops reached Shoreham neither had appeared. Seizing such vessels as could be procured, Allen boldly decided to cross. The land- ing was effected at a little cove, a mile north of the fort. When the morning dawned only eighty-three men had reached the western shore : yet Allen, know- ing how much delay would imperil the issue, decided to advance at once to the assault. I need not repeat the story. The fortress, which had cost so much blood and treasure, was won by the little band in a bloodless triumph, " in the name of Jehovah and the Continental Congress." Crown Point, which was held by a mere sergeant's guard, was immediately occupied. We have no evidence, beyond the legend of the country, of a participation by Gilliland in these momentous events, except his own decisive language, in his remarkable memorial addressed to congress. This document, so valuable intrinsically, and which sheds such light on the history of Gilliland, will be introduced in subsequent pages, in connection with the journal. He says: "Your memorialist has reason to think that he was the first person who laid a plan for and determined upon seizing Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and the king's armed vsssels, and there- with the entire command of Lakes George and Cham- plain. That by means of your memorialist, an un- happy dispute which subsisted between Mr, Allen and Mr. Arnold (the then rival heads of our handful of people on Lake Champlain), was composed. In con- sequence of which, your memorialist (besides several 48 PIONEER HISTORY OF other matters) took tlie liberty of recommending to your honors, the embodying of the Green Mountain boys. Col. Allen delivered the letter." In another part of this memorial, he relates incidents corroborative of the idea I have suggested. He says, "the only association agreement entered into; the only company of minute men, formed on either side of Lake Champlain, your memorialist established on his settlement, and for example sake stood in the ranks himself and did his utmost endeavors to introduce the like among all the other settlements at or near the lake, and finally every third man of his tenants en- tered into his country's service." A Mr. Pierson, re- siding in Shelburn, Vermont, directly opposite Wills- boro, acted with Gilliland in this patriotic movement.^ It is difficult to suppose that so conspicuous an in- 1 The settlements of Gilliland and Piei'son, although on opposite shores of the lake, constituted socially one neighborhood — neither had any connection by roads with other colonies. The company of minute men consisted of about thirty men from the west side and fifteen from the east side of the lake. Gilliland was chosen captain and Pierson lieutenant. They appear to have been active and efficient in the performance of their voluntary duties. When the reverses to the American arms occurred in Canada, Gilliland felt compelled to aban- don liis possessions, but Pierson and his friends determined to remain and secure their crops, unless constrained to leave by an irresistible force. A bold promontory, surrounded by perpendicular cliffs, and connected with the main land by a low, narrow strip of land, which was overflowed at high water, stood contiguous to the farm of Pierson, on a plat of ground upon this promoutorj', hidden by a thick hedge of ce- dars. Pierson constructed here a block house as a place of refuge in case of attack, while gathering his harvests. The Indians and Tories soon assailed the settlers and laborers in the field, who fled to the block house for safety. A regular attack was made upon the block liouse, which was continued several days. Pierson lost several men, but re- pulsed the enemy with the infliction of a severe loss. Two of his sons were afterwards made prisoners and confined in the fort at Chambly Ilapids. — Mr. Sheldon^ s Mamiscript. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 49 dividual, of ardent and avowed patriotic sentiments, whose position and local infiaence would have render- ed so important a coadjutor, should not have been acces- sory to these proceedings. It is certain, that his zeal and activity marked him at an early day as a victim to be pursued by the special vengeance of government. He enjoyed with a very limited number of patriots, the eminent distinction of being by name, proscribed and outlawed. A proclamation was issued by the gov- ernor of Canada in the June succeeding this memorable event, offering a reward of live hundred dollars for the arrest of Gilliland, and his rendition to the govern- ment. The allurements of this reward overcame the patriotism and fidelity of some of his tenants, who en- gaged in unsuccessful efforts to sieze and convey him to Canada. Unsuccessful attempts were made to seduce his household slaves into schemes for his betrayal.^ Various other efforts were made to effect his capture, but the most formidable, which was nearly accom- plished, was made by a sheriff of Tryon county, who secretly penetrated into the settlement "with four tories and three savages." Gilliland not only escaped the peril with great adroitness, but succeeded in effect- ing the surprise and "capture of the whole party with all their arms, and sent them prisoners to Crown Point." ' His son and a daughter were in Canada, at school, at the com- mencement of hostilities. They were retained nearly six years, as a restraint upon the acts of Gilliland. The character of Gilliland, his intimate knowledge of the frontier, his great influence created by his intellectual superiority, the extent of his possessions, and the num- ber of dependant tenants, rendered him by far the most prominent in- dividual upon the shores of the lake. This was the cause of the ex- treme solicitude of the government to control his influence, — Mr. Sheldon's Manuscripts. 7 50 PIONEER HISTORY OF In the meanwhile, Allen and Arnold had achieved for the provincial arms, an ascendency upon the lake. In a communication to congress, June 7th, 1775, Allen utters this vigorous and animated language. " I would lay my life on it, that with fifteen hundred men, I would take Montreal." Congress wavered and hesi- tated until the opportunity was lost, and then too late, adopted the plan he had suggested. An army of two thousand men was collected at Crown Point and Ti- conderoga, under the successive command of Schuyler and Montgomery, and amply equipped, it advanced from these fortresses on its impracticahle and disastrous mission. "While this expedition was in progress, and partic- ularly after the retreat of the American army from Canada, the dwellings and the garners of Gilliland and his tenants, were freely opened to receive the sick and wounded, and in relief of the necessities of the troops. His memorial to congress, presents this graphic recital of his services and sacrifices. " That in testimony of your memorialist's warm attachment to, and hearty afleotion for your northern army, he embraced every opportunity of rendering them all the encouragement in his power. From the general down to the sentinel, he has entertained three or four thousand men at his own expense — he never charged a cent for vegetables, salmon, milk, or anything else he had to spare them — has supplied a numerous company under Capt. Lamar, with bread and meat, as long as he or his settlers had a pound, during a long stay which they were obliged to make at his place, and thereby reduced his and the families of his tenants to sufferings they were before THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 51 unused to ; had every deserter which appeared at his settlement, taken up and sent to the army ; has lain weeks together on straw in a common room, that sick and wounded officers and soldiers that were sent to, or stopt at his house, might be more comfortably accom- modated, sometimes taking them to Ticonderoga (45 miles distant) at his own charge, and had every sol- dier who died at his settlement interred in decent cof- fins with the honors of war." In a petition addressed to General Gates, and dated at Albany, August 20th, 1777, Gilliland, rcapitulates many of the facts and views presented to congress in his memorial, and embraces in strong language a nar- rative of the events connected with the requisitions of the national officials, and the seizure of his property for the public use. He states, " that previous to the retreat of our army from Canada, your petitioner, being apprehensive of danger from the enemy, re- moved his children and most valuable effects to the neighborhood of Crown Point, and returned home to take care of his other property, where he continued until General Sullivan arrived from Canada, at your petitioner's river, with our dispirited, sickly army, who represented to your petitioner how much his army in general stood in need of milk and fresh meat, and also the probability of a pursuit being made by the enemy. He recommended and indeed ordered our immediate removal, with our cattle and such other effects as we could by that opportunity get off, lest the enemy should be comforted or aided by our cattle and other provisions, leaving Colonel (now General) Stark to see his orders put in execution. On which occasion 52 PIONEER HISTORY OF your petitioner and some of his tenants, brought to Crown Point all the cattle that could be brought in the vessels and boats, amounting to near one hundred head, and shortly after about twenty head more were remov- ed by a party under Lieut. Hartley ; many of which cattle are yet unpaid for, though they have been doubtless made use of by our army either at Crown Point or Ticonderoga. That pursuant to the plan proposed by your petitioner to your honor, and which met with your approbation, your petitioner returned home to preserve his crops, taking with him the three men, with whom you were pleased to assist him (whose wages he has paid) and some other hired men, who with hiso^n slaves cut and secured a considerable part of your peti- tioner's crops, and of those of several of his tenants, who were moved away considerably indebted to him and whose crops were his only security, having no other prospect of payment but from their being pre- served. " Thatyourpetitioner, besides expending considerable sums on the above mentioned business, exposed his life and liberty, and also his slaves to very great dan- ger, during his stay at Willsborough, thirty miles on the outside of our most advanced post, without any other guard, than the precarious appearance of scout- ing parties from Crown Point; during which stay your petitioner w^as visited by Maj. Hay, A. D. Q. M. G. (about 15th, Sep.) who having thoroughly advised the measure, at length prevailed on your petitioner to make sale of the whole crops to him, for the use of the army, and made an unconditional purchase thereof, at such low prices as he thought fit to ofter, with the THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 53 promise however, tbat he would pay your petitioner as much liigher prices as then offered as he should thereafter pay to any other for like articles. By agree- ment the grain was to be threshed by the public, they getting the straw for that labor, and the whole to be by them removed without any expense or trouble to your petitioner, who was informed by Maj. Hay, that he made that purchase by your honour's order and that the terms of agreement met your approbation. " That there was plenty of time to remove the whole of those crops both before our fleet was defeated and after the enemy returned to Canada before the lake took, but that your petitioner never heard that any attempt was made for that purpose, during either of those times. That when the agreement was made by Maj. Hay with your petitioner, it certainly was never mentioned or intended by either party, that your peti- tioner should stand insurer for the public, till they thought fit, if at all, to send for the things purchased. A proposal of that kind would have been so preposter- ous and absurd that it was neither made by Maj. Hay, nor would it have been listened to by your petitioner in any other light than to take an ungenerous advan- tage, which Maj. Hay would from his heart despise being the author of, and which your petitioner would never have agreed to." The retreat of the American troops from Canada, and the apprehended advance of Carlton, spread uni- versal consternation and panic. The waters and all the environs of the lake were exposed to the incursions of the British forces and the sanguinary ravages of their tory and savage allies. The settlement on the Bouquet 54 PIONEER HISTORY OF was peculiarily liable to these assaults, alike from its comparative wealth and prominence and by its adv^anc- ed and exposed position. Most of the settlers hastily abandoned their forms and improvements, the results of years of toil and expenditure, and fled with the little property they could bear with them, within the Ameri- can lines. Few ever returned to their homes in the wilderness. Others embracing the amnesty ottered by the British commander, sought protection and safety beneath the flag of the enemy. Some of this class be- came active partizans of England, and by their local knowledge proved valuable and efiicient auxiliaries. The stern necessities of tlie times constrained Gilli- landto convey his family, and such of his valuable fur- niture and eftects as he could transport to the Ameri- can fortresses. The machinery and irons attached to his mills, and other ponderous articles, were sunk in the river and lake, or buried in secret repositories. These depositories were afterwards revealed by the recreant tenant, to the enemy, and all the valuable pro- perty was seized by them and confiscated.* When this tempest swept over and desolated the colony, it was smiling in beauty and wealth. The toil and disbursements of eleven years, had subdued the forest and established in this wilderness, culture and the mechanic arts. Farms, teeming with flocks and herds, and redolent with the promises of luxuriant har- vests, spread from Split Rock to the Bouquet. Broad fields enclosed by permanent fences, — comfortable 1 These articles thus appropriated by the British, were worth two hundred pounds, according to the estimate of Gilliland. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 55 tenements surrounded by orchards, gardens and out- buildings, attested their prosperity and assured com- fort and competency to the settlers. Roads and bridges facilitated their intercourse ; a benign sj'stem of tenure promoted their progress. Justice, moderation and li- berality, conferred protection and security to their indi- vidual rights. Gilliland represented to congress, that the settlement when it was broken up and abandoned, contained "twenty-eight dwelling houses, about forty other buildings, two grist mills, two saw mills, gar- dens, orchards, fences, &c.," and that "he enjoyed an annual income from the property of more than one thousand pounds," A large indebtedness had been incurred to Mr. Gilli- land, by the munificent aid he extended to the poor and struggling colonists, and for the payment of which their crops and improvements afforded his only secu- rity. These resources were suddenly extinguished, and in the period of a few months, the herds, the struc- tures, the embellishments of art and industry, were all overwhelmed in a common ruin. In addition to these calamitous visitations, strange and unexpected trials accumulated upon the heart of Gilliland, cares and anxieties. The perils and exigen- cies of the times invoked the most active vigilance, and often subjected the patriotic to unjust suspicion and invidious surveillance. Although the patriotism of Gilliland had been so enthusiastic, and had been manifested by such efficient services and so deep suffer- ing, he was not exempt from the consequence of these jealousies. The acts of the tenants, whose defection I have noticed, and over whom he was supposed to 56 .PIONEER HISTORY OF exert SO potent an influence, reflected a suspicion upon himself. The suhjoinecl letter of Col. Hartley was undoubtedly justified by these circumstances. Col. Hartly to Gen. Gates.^ Crown Point, July 24th, 1776. Sir: I have understood fron^ several quarters, that which inclines me to apprehend, that the supposition that Gilliland and some others had sent down one Ed- ward Watson, and another to St. John's, had some foundation. They doubtless carry any intelligence they have to the enemy. It has just been intimated to me that Gilliland and Jack Watson, with one Mc- Auley, all relations, have had a hint that they are sus- pected. This may induce them to send a canoe or boat to warn the two men of their danger in return- ing, or to make their own escape. I have ordered a party of about twenty-five men to set off" in a boat to- wards Cumberland Head, to intercept the eight Indians and the Canadian on their way back to St. John's, or the two rascals in the canoe, who are gone to St. John's, in their return to Willsborough, and also to favour Capt. Wilson's retreat. Hays and the men mentioned in my letter of this day, ought in my opinion, to be secured. You will judge of the proper time. I hope my conduct will meet with your approbation. I am, sir, your most humble servant, Thomas Hartley. P. S. The party will set ofi" to-night or to-morrow morning early, unless countermanded. 'Am. Arch. 5th Series, i, 564. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 57 The following extract from a general order issued by Gates, a week subsequent to the date of the above communication, b}^ which the claims of Gilliland for indemnity were submitted for investigation to officers ofsuchhighcharacterasSt. Clair and Wayne, furnishes evidence equally of the magnitude and respectability of these demands, and of the fact that Gilliland was ex- onerated in the mind of Ge*n. Gates, from the imputa- tion conveyed in the letter of Col. Hartley. We pos- sess no knowledge of the result of the proposed en- quiry, or whether any action occurred under the order. The silence of Gilliland and of the Archives on the subject, warrant the presumption, that either the pub- lic exigency demanded different services by the mem- bers of the court, or that from some other cause, the inquiry was not pursued. Extract from a General Order} Head Quarters, July 31st, 1776. Col. St. Clair, Col Wayne and Mr. Avery, the Dep- uty Commissary-General, to sit this afternoon at four o'clock, as a Court of Inquiry, to examine into certain demands made upon the United States, by Mr. Gilli- land and Maj. Udney Hay, A. D. Q. M. G. They will certify such as they think just and reasonable, that the demands of the claimants may be adjusted and settled." This difficulty could scarcely have been composed, when an incident transpired that involved far more J Am, Arch. 5th Series, i, 801. 58 PIONEER HISTORY OF serious and enduring consequences. The following let- ter fromGillilaud to Arnold, discloses tbe original cause of their collision. Its calm and conciliatory language surprises, when we consider the singularly vehement and irascible temperament Gilliland so frequently ex- hibits. The courteous proffer of civility due to the amenities of their positions, should have exacted for- bearance and attention to the claims of Gilliland. The extent of the actual losses of which he complained were not large, estimated by ordinary circumstances, but in his situation, and in that remote wilderness where all resources had been wasted by the ravages of war, the supplies which were seized, and the property wantonly destroyed, were of great positive value, and of inestimable importance to the comfort and suste- nance of his family. William Gilliland to Gen. Arnold} September 1st, 1776. Sir: The troops and sailors accompanying you on your cruise, this day week, have wantonly and wick- edly committed great destruction on several of my plantations on this settlement. They have forcibly raised two fields of potatoes that, if full grown, would have filled two hundred bushels; an acre of peas are entirely destroyed, which would have 3'ielded sixteen to twenty bushels ; five or six acres of corn are ruined ; about ten dollars worth of smith's tools, and a multi- tude of other irons; two pleasure sleighs, five new sash windows, a new bedstead and bedcord, several chairs and many other articles, they have carried off", 1 Am. Arch. 6th Series, 11, 112-13. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 59 tearing houses, breaking doors, and committing every villany in the most insolent and licentious manner, -even before my servant's face, whom I sent to guard these things, telling them it was by order of the offi- cers they came for the vegetables, and have them they would, were I present myself This was a bad return for seventy-five salmon given to them and Capt. Alex- ander's people on that and the preceding day. As I am convinced you would not by any means, counte- nance such proceedings, I rely and request you will have immediate justice done me, by ordering a survey or inquiry to be made to ascertain the amount of my damage. You may easily remember how Gen. Gates served Capt. Romans for suffering some of his men to pull up a few potato hills near Ticonderoga. • It grieves me to see my crops destroyed, for whose preservation I came here, and remain here at the risk of my life, and those crops on the deserted lots are all the pay I shall probably ever get from those by whom they were formerly occupied, who owed me very considerable sums of money, and many of whom have died since their removal. The others gone down the country. I shall hope for your ready compliance, and that you will believe me to be very respectfully, sir, your most obedient humble servant. Will. Gilliland, To Gen. Arnold. P.-S. My salmon crib and all its apparatus were carried off last Monday night by the violence of a very great flood. If your carpenters could be spared to as- sist me one day or two, I should very soon be able to send you some salmon. W. G. 60 PIONEER HISTORY OF If the men belono-ino- to the vessels are suffered to come ashore where there are settlements, 'twill be im- possible to prevent their doing mischief. Besides what I have mentioned above, the people belonging to one of the gondolas went ashore last Sunday afternoon to Point Pleasant Bay, three and a half miles south of my river, and not finding any of my people there, car- ried off five of my blankets, which my people left in a barn there where they lodged whilst reaping near that place. These things could not possibly have all been taken on board without the knowledge of the officers. Arnold appears to have made no response to this appeal, and Gilliland, always impetuous and determin- ed, and revolting at injustice and oppression, had prob- ably carried his complaint to a higher tribunal. This course must have constrained Arnold's notice of the sub- ject. After an interval of four weeks he communicates the original letter of Gilliland, to Gen. Gates: and pre- sents charges against Gilliland of disloj^altj^, and the commission of frauds upon the government. The friv- olity and transparent malignity of these charges, are apparent, from the documents themselves. Gen, Arnold to Gen. Gates} Isle Valcour, Sept. 28th, 1776. Enclosed is the deposition of Thomas Bay, which I took at Crown Point when I came down. I have since examined a Frenchman and his wife who live opposite the Isle la Motte, who says that Ned Watson and Wykes, came to his house and there met Capt. Frazier » Am. Arch. Stli Series, n, 592-3. . THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 61 wlio Avas in pursuit of some deserters ; tbey told Fra- zier they were sent down by Gilliland and Watson, and acquainted liira of Capt. Wilson's and his party being on the lake, in consequence of which he was taken. The Frenchman also says that about a fort- night past two men whom he knew to be Gilliland's tenants, came to his house, said they were sent down by Gilliland with intelligence ; that they appeared in a great hurry, and oifered him five dollars to set them over Missisqui bay as their canoe was leaky, which he did. This is partly confirmed by Mr. Hay, who lives opposite this island, and says that one Cross and Scarr came to his house about a fortnight past, and supposes they went to St. John's. Scarr was a servant to Mac- awday, who, with Cross, were tenants to Gilliland. I am fully of opinion that Gilliland, John Watson, and Macawlay, have from time to time sent expresses to the enem3% andgiven them all the intelligence in their power, and no persons have known our afl'airs better. I make no doubt that the enemy have often been har- boured at the houses of the first and last. I have there- fore ordered to take them prisoners to Ticonderoga, that you may examine and dispose of them as you think proper. I dont think it is prudent to let them remain on their farms, unless we choose the enemy should know all our measures. Gilliland is a most plausible and artful villain. Enclosed isaletter of com- plaintwhichhe wrote me afterthe fleet passed his settle- ment, not one syllable of which is true. One Mr, Dujuit, a tenant of his, wdio had left his place, went up with the fleet, and oft'ered me some vegetables, which he said would be lost if I did not accept them. I sent some 62 PIONEER HISTORY OF boats on sliore under the direction of Capt. Dunn. The wliole stutt' that was brought off, was not worth forty shillings. No other boats from the fleet were on shore. As we returned to Button Mould bay the next morning, and on our going down the lake the second time, only one boat was on shore, and the few vegeta- bles taken were from forms deserted, of which I believe Gilliland has no right. His complaint appears more groundless than that about his cattle, for which he was paid two or three times, and carried them home at last. * * * * The Testimony of Thomas Day, examined on oath be- fore Robert Leavis, one of the Justices of Charlotte County, in the Province of New York. Who saith that sometime in the beginning of July last, being in company with William Gilliland Esq. and William Wykes, he heard said Wykes say that he was not afraid to go to St. John's, to the Regulars, and that it appeared to him from their intimacy and being frequenth' together, and from sundry expressions of Gilliland's, that he contrived the plan of Wykes and Ned Watson's going off. That he heard Gilliland say, the army acted like a parcel of damned robbers. That several of Gilliland's tenants, in particular one Nathaniel Blood, bought sundry tents, axes, guns, &c. from the soldiers of the American armj^, for a mere trifle of rum, which said Blood had from said Gilliland, and he believes said Gilliland was concerned with said Blood. He the deponent observed to Gilliland that he thought it very wrong to buy those articles of the sol- diers, as it was defrauding the country ; to which Gilli- THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 63 land answered, it was no matter how mucli they got out of the country ; the more the better ; and that be- ing at GilUland's when the army was going to Canada this spring, several officers passed by the window. Gillilaud said there comes a company of damned bur- glars. He was also in company with John Watson since the last retreat ; he heard said Watson say that he was notafraidof the Regulars if they came, for that he had several officers for relations among them, and as for the American army they had acted like a parcel of damned robbers. Thomas Day. Robert Lewis. Gen. Gates to Gen. Arnold} Tyconderoga, October 2d, 1776. Dear General : I received your favor of the 28th, yesterday in the forenoon ; and after dinner Messrs. Gilliland, Watson, and Macauley, were brought here prisoners ; I found they had free intercourse together at Crown Point, so that no end could be answered by keeping them separate here. I propose sending them to Gen. ydiuyler, with the deposition of Sergeant Day and your letter. The Sergeant is by this time at Phil- adelphia ; but Gilliland designing to remain down the country during the war, there will be no difficulty in bringing him to answer any accusation.^ ^ Am. Arch. 5th Series, ii, 847. 2 1 am indebted to the active and intelligent antiquarian research of my friend Joel Munsell Esq. for these interesting documents which he exhumed from the Archives. 64 PIONEER HISTORY OF The frivolous and baseless character of these charges against Gillilaiicl, will be detected by a glance at the papers communicated to Gen. Gates. Day was a sub- ordinate of Arnold and doubtless a dependant upon his will. The gravest of these imputations, are the sentiments imputed to Gillilaud of a desire or justi- fication of defrauding the government — a denuncia- tion of the American officials and the allegation that Watson had said, "he was not afraid if the Kegulars did come, as he had several relations among the oifi- cers." If the testimony of Day was unsuspicious and true, it only proved the intemperate and excited utter- ance of a man goaded to exasperation, by the oppres- sion and rapacit}^ of Arnold and his subalterns, and by the injustice which withheld remuneration for prop- erty that had been arbitrarily seized. It afforded no evidence of disloyalty in Watson, but a few years ex- patriated, that he should express a confidence in the protection of his Irish friends, who were approaching. The pretence of Arnold, that Gilliland had committed peculations, was unsupported by any shadow of testi- mony, and was probably an afterthought, and designed to avert an inquiry into his own extortions. The condi- tion of the public funds and the integrity of the com- missary department equally discredited the allegation. Gates in his reply to Arnold, treated the charges as summarily and with as slight consideration as military etiquette permitted. The narrative of these proceed- ings by Gilliland, embodied in the memorial to con- gress, which I have so frequently quoted, is worthy of attention. lie describes the sale of his crops to Maj. Hay, and proceeds: " Shortly after entering into the THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 65 above agreement, your memorialist fully determined to remove himself, his slaves, stock, crops, and such portable furniture and tools as remained behind, to Ti- conderoga, made a kind of cellar in the woods, in which he hid away his saw and gristmill irons, and a great variety of other irons and some steel ; in value at that time not less than X200 ; loaded two Bateaux with household stuff and other articles, and brought them and his whole family there remaining, to the house of one of his tenants, three miles from where your memorialist then lived, only waiting for a north- erly wind to favor their passage to Crown point, for which purpose your memorialist had the boats hauled a good way up on the shore without unloading them, keeping his people meanwhile, closely employed in harvesting. Here your memorialist remained two or three days, not daring to stay at home, being there much more dangerously situated, should an enemy come. During this period, Gen. Arnold, then down the lake with the fleet, in reward for your memorialist's zeal in the cause, for the manifold services he had ren- dered our army, and for a recompense of the eminent services he had rendered him, or rather to cancel all obligations due to your memorialist on that score, sent a party of soldiers to tear your memorialist from his property, dignifying him with an office for a com- mander, whose rank was so high as a sergeant, with private orders not to allow him to remove any of his property. ' ' In another part of the document, Gilliland bursts into a magnificent and scourging invective of Ar- nold, which, if it were the sole memorial we possess of the moral and intellectual qualities of Gilliland, would 9 66 PIONEER HISTORY OP stamp him a man of extraordinary character. Arnold, when this denunciation was uttered, was in the zenith of his fame and influence ; yet Gilliland fearlessly pro- claims his rapacity and oppression, and, almost ani- mated by the spirit of prophecy, portrays his character with ahold and unfaltering hand, as remakable as was the eloquence and vehemence of his language. He exclaims, after glancing at his own services and de- scribing his arrest, "Gen. Arnold is your servant; all the power and authority he has, is derived from you, and that has enabled him to commit the acts of tyran- ny and outrage upon your memorialist and others, whose complaints have been laid before you. It is not in mine, but it is in your power to bring him to jus- tice. Bursting with pride, and intoxicated with power, to which he ever ought to have been a stranger, but which he has had the art to obtain from you, he ty- rannizes when he can. If temerity, if rashness, impu- dence and error can recommend him to you, he is al- lowed to be amply supplied with these qualities, and many people think they ought to recommend him in a peculiar manner to Lord North, who, in gratitude for his having done more injury to the American cause than all the ministerial troops have had the power of doing, ought to reward him with a generous pen- sion. He used his outmost endeavours, to preventyour memorialist fi-om returning to his place to preserve and remove to Ticonderoga, his crops and other prop- erty — and when passing your memorialist's settle- ment with the fleet, brought them to anchor just op- posite to it; suflering the most disorderly, the most licentious fellows on shore, where in a few hours, they THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 67 carried off or destroyed of my property, to near the amount of £> , besides the outrages committed on our homes. I complain not, that by the breaking up of my settlement, I am divested of an annual income of more than a thousand pounds, a calamity to which every person is subject, whose situation is equally dan- gerous, and whose political sentiments are as publicly known as were mine. On your love of justice, on the humanity and tenderness I believe your honors to be possessed, do I entirely rely, on your taking this mat- ter into serious consideration." No evidence exists that any further action was taken on these charges against Gilliland. In the broad light which subsequent events poured upon the character of Arnold, we are better able to form a just conception of his motives and acts, than his cotemporaries of '77, who were so often dazzled by the meteor glare of his brilliant exploits. In a conflict of reputation, or a question of veracity, between Arnold and Gilliland, no hesitation in reaching a conclusion could now be justified. Arnold had committed outrage upon the rights and property of Gilliland, had been the receiver of the rapine of his followers, — he had been re- sisted and denounced, and it is known that he never paused in an unrelenting and vindictive persecution of those who crossed his path, or restricted his rapaci- ties. This attribute of his character, which was soon after developed in such distinct preeminence, affords a solution of his malignant pursuit of Gilliland. I have unhesitatingly yielded my confidence to this memorial, ^ and have accepted it as a reliable and afflu- iSee it in full in the Journal, 1777. 68 PIONEER HISTOET OF ent fountain of information. It bears intrinsic evidence ofveracity^in many details it is corroborated by other testimony; a similar instrument was addressed about the same time to Gen. Gates, which was often identical in language, and embraced most of the representations of facts embraced in this memorial. The intelligence of Gates could not have been imposed upon by any mendacious statement of events, represented to have occurred within the dej^artment under his own com- mand, and which were generally within his personal knowledge. Nor would Gilliland, with his singular shrewdness and sagacity, have ventured to lay before that august body fallacious statements, which congress were bound to investigate, and the falsity of which would have been inevitably detected. It is necessary to revert briefly to those public events, on Lake Champlain, which were intimately connected with the afl:airs of Gilliland, and which in their conse- quences pressed with such severity upon his fortunes. Sullivan, after his retreat from Canada, with his army restored to health and reorganized, determined to evac- uate Crown Point. He burnt all the erections at that place, destroyed the public property which could not be removed, and withdrew the American forces with their munitions, and gathered them about Ticonderoga. A large and well appointed British army was concen- trated at St. Johns, and menaced the colonies with invasion. To effect a successful advance, it was neces- sary to secure a naval preponderance upon the lake. Six vessels of a large class, which had been constructed in England, were taken apart at the foot of the rapids upon the Kichelieu, the materials transported to St. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 69 Johns, and there rebuilt, in the summer of 1776. Other vessels of various dimensions were also constructed with the utmost celerity. By these energetic efforts a fleet of thirty-one vessels, and carrying in their arma- ment from one to eighteen guns, was prepared for act- ive service on the 1st of October, in that year. This fleet was navigated by seven hundred veteran seamen, and armed by a heavy corps of artillery. Congress was not insensible to the vital emergency of the occa- sion, but possessed means totally inadequate to the magnitude of the crisis. The timber required for the construction of a flotilla was yet standing in the forest, and was to be cut, prepared and transported, to the ship yard at Ticonderoga, almost unaided by the ap- pliances of art or mechanism. Its equipments were to be conveved a lona: distance over roads new and almost impracticable. The ship carpenters who must construct the vessels were employed in urgent duties in the navy yards upon the coasts. Stimulated rather than oppressed by all these adverse combinations, the indomitable energies of Arnold created and equipped a flotillaofflfteen vessels with an aggregate battery of fifty-five guns, and manned by three hundred and fifty gallant and resolute men, but nearly all of whom were totally inexperienced in naval expedi- tions. The exigency invoked heroism and sacrifices, and notwithstanding the great disparity in every ele- ment of strength, Arnold fearlessly threw his little ar- manent across the path of the invaders. The fleets met on the 11th Oct. in a narrow strait between Valcour Island and the mainland, and nearly oppo- 70 PIONEER HISTORY OF site Gilliland's settlement, which he called Janes- borough.^ During four hours the conflict continued with ter- rific fury, and was ennobled by deeds of heroic and ex- alted daring, unsurpassed in the annals of naval war- ^ A solitary house, occupied by a family named Hay, (referred to in Arnold's letter to Gates, page 60), stood, in the year 1776, upon the shore of the lake, directly fronting a little cove, in which, on the memorable 11th of October, the squadron of Arnold was moored. It had been arranged between Hay and Arnold, that the former, when he discerned the approach of the British fleet, should signal Arnold by displaying a sheet from a window. The signal was made — but no advantage was apparently taken of it. A daughter of Mr. Hay, the venerable Mrs. Elmore, who has but recently deceased, was then an infant in her mother's arms. Mrs. Elmore communicated to me many interesting particulars, which she derived from the traditions in her family, of that battle and other reminiscences of the early history of the country. Her daughter married a grandson of William Gilliland, who now resides at the mouth of Salmon river, and in view of the scene of the conflict. While the battle raged, Mrs Hay carrying her infant, went to a spring in a ravine near the lake, which was at that time mantled by a dense thicket. To her unutterable amazement and terror, she found herself in the midst of a large body of Indians, hideous by their war paints and savage costume, and armed with guns and tomahawks. The mother, agitated and alarmed at her helpless condition, and fran- tically clasping her child to her breast, wept convulsively. An aged chief, slie judged from his demeanour, approached, and unable to com- municate consolation or an assurance of safety by language, mani- fested his protective feeling by gently and soothingly, wiping away her tears with the skirt of his hunting shirt ; neither the mother or child was molested. These Indians were evidently placed in ambush, prepared to seize the American crew, if they attempted to escape by landing. The tender mercies, that would have been exercised by these Allies of England, we may conceive. This incident determines the historical question, which has been discussed, whether the fleet of Carlton was accompanied by hordes of savages, who advanced along the shores of the lake. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 71 fare. Arnold, levelling almost every gun in his own vessel, conducted the battle with the highest skill and the most determined courage, until night terminated the engagement. One of the British gondolas was sunk, and another, with all its crew of sixty men, was blown up. An American schooner was also sunk^ and a gon- dola burnt, while the entire fleet was shattered and disabled. The disproportion in the strength of the fleets was too vast to justify a maintainance of the con- flict. Arnold attempted to effect an escape to Crown Point, by boldly passing through the British fleet un- der cover of a dark and foggy night. His retreat was revealed to the vigilent enemy by the earliest dawn, and a prompt pursuit ensued. A solitary rock which stands in the broad lake, and shrouded in an autumnal midst, in the early gloom was mistaken by the British, for an American vessel, and a connonade was opened upon it. The mariners of the lake still call it " Carlton's prize." Arnold was overtaken near Otter creek, and sustained for an- other four hours, with his single galley, and five Gon- dolas a bloody combat with the British fleet, in pro- tecting the retreat of the remainder of his flotilla. Resolute in the purpose of preserving his flotilla and crew from becoming trophies to the enemy, he ran the vessels upon the shore and blew them up. Their char- ^This vessel was sunk near a small rocky inlet, which from the cir- cumstance was named " Ship Island." The wreck from which numer- ous memorials have been recovered, it is said may still be discerned at seasons of low water when the lake is serene. An effort was made some years ago to raise this vessel. Her bows were elevated above the surface, guns and some munitions were taken from her, but she broke away, and sunk in deep water, and the attempt was abandoned. 72 PIONEER HISTORY OF red wrecks for many years remained upon the beach at Panton, memorials of his galhintry and patriotism, long after other deeds had consigned his name to infamy.^ One galley only was captured, while the rest of the fleet retreated to Ticonderoga. Gen. Carlton advanced no further than Crown Point, which he again occupied, and having spent a month in menacing the American works at Ticonderoga, returned to Canada. During this expedition he visited the deserted settlement on the Bouquet, hut left uninjured the structures which had been abandoned. An event occurred in the following year, on the se- questered banks of the Bouquet, memorable in the history of the revolution, and remarkable in the annals of civilized nations. It was denounced in the thunders of Chatham's eloquence, and the religious and moral sentiment of the Christian world was revolted by the act. No measure in the policy of England, tended so eifectually to harmonize the popular passions of Amer- ica, while it precipitated the armed and infuriated yeo- manry of 'New England upon the entrenchments at Saratoga. Burgoyne had summoned the Indian tribes to meet him atthe falls of the Bouquet. They obeyed his call in numbers that startled his humanity and appalled his judgment. On the 20th of June, '77, he assem- bled the chiefs in a redoubt, which he caused to be constructed about half a mile below the mansion of 1 Relics of these vessels embedded near the shore still exist. Mu- nitions are frequently raised from them. I have in my possession bullets which were recovered a few years since. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 73 Gilliland. There Burgoyne addressed them, and claim- ed their services to the British king. A chief, in the wild and vehement eloquence of Indian oratory, replied, and pledging the fealty of the tribes to a merciless warfare against the colonies. In this strange council, amid these placid scenes, a treaty was made, and rati- fied in savage orgies, by which furious hordes were con- stituted the allies of England, and the tomahawk and scalping knife, were to be encrimsoued in the blood of her kindred in lineage, in religion, and civilization. The remains of this redoubt could within a few years yet be traced. Its site is still designated, although its lines have been entirely obliterated by the labors of agriculture. Burgoyne encamped his army upon the shore of the lake near the mouth of the Bouquet, and occupied ten days in organizing for the advance, and in drilling the Canadian voyageurs in the military evo- lutions of his fleet of batteaux. This vast armament passed onward to meet other scenes of blood, of tri- umph and disaster, but the ulterior operations of Bur- goyne, had no du'ect connection with the fortunes of Gilliland. Refugee tories and other irregulars, fugitives from the fate which was impending over the British army, traversed the settlement on the Bouquet. Carlton and Burgoyne, had been merciful and conciliatory in their visitations. The rapacity of Arnold, and the exactions of the government had spared the dwellings of the set- tlers, but these gleaners in devastation, left only ashes and desolation in their track. Tradition wer, that they consigned to the flames every edifice, from Split 10 74 PIONEER mSTOTR OF Rock to the Bouquet, in a wanton and ruthless destruc- tion. General history has failed to commemorate an exploit of Col. Ebenezer Allen, the hero of Mt. Defi- ance. In the autumn of 1777, with a small force he surprised near the present village of Essex, and capt- ured, a large detachment with a heavy train of muni- tions, retreating from Ticonderoga to Canada.^ It appears from a petition dated "January 15th, 1778, Fort Albany," and addressed to the committee of that city, by Gilliland, that he had again fallen un- der the suspicion of the military authorities. He rep- resents that he had been arrested, on account of an in- discreet circulation of a rumor, derived from an officer of the army relative to the American losses, at the bat- tle of Brandywiue. "While in the act of liberation for this venial oifence, he was again imprisoned upon a charge of having illegally " purchased a few articles be- longing to a part of the spoils of Burgoyne's army," in contravention probably of some official order. He states, in explanation of the transaction, that he purchased the property innocently, supposing it to be legitimate spoils. His narrative furnishes the only information we possess of the transaction, but that, sustained by the testimonials he produced, seems to have been a clear and ample vindication.^ The petition embraces some severe strictures upon the course of Gen. Gates in reference to the fugitive slaves of Gilliland. The en- tire document possesses value by affording a slight in- 1 Butlers address. *This petition is printed under the appropriate date in connection with the Journal. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 75 sight into the official acts of the period and the char- acters of its public men. One paragraph will excite especial interest. He recites with peculiar earnestness, the circumstances of his military arrests, and then pro- ceeds in this fervent appeal to the committee to vindi- cate the civil authority from the usurpations of the military power: "You are very sensible, gentlemen, that no laws, divine or human, justify such acts of vi- olence and oppression, as those now practised upon me ! Will you, the guardians of these parts, be tame spectators thereof, without exercising that authority, vested in you by the authority of a free people, to pre- vent military officers (the more dangerous as they are the more exalted in rank) to sapthefoundatiotis of our new ' constitution, before it be sufficiently established, and through the persecution of an innocent individual, to make the most dangerous attacks and innovation upon the most sacred rights, and most inestimable privileges of the people — of those, especially who are your im- mediate constituents. Where then are the beneiits expected from magna charta, the bill of right, the ha- beas corpus act, and all other privileges now contend- ing for, and which the subject of free and independent states claim, and ever ought to enjoy? Are they to be trampled upon by the military, through the timidity of those in civil authority ? No! I trust not, though I dread the consequences of precedents, from which evils of the most enormous size and pernicious ten- dency may originate and flow." The allusion to "exalted rank," in military position, and the general import of the extract, decidedly points 76 PIONEER HISTORY OP to Arnold as tlie hand that had directed these insidi- ous persecutions. The residence and occupation of Gilliland from this date to the close of the war, are involved in almost im- penetrable obscurity. He incidentally alludes to a con- tingent title to real estate in Orange county, and to an investment of trilling sums in Europe, on the eve of the Revolution.^ In the memorial to congress, he uses language that implies necessitous circumstances ; he says " being now entirely divested of all employ- ment," and to " enable me to support a numerous family of motherless children," and solicits an appoint- ment " which shall not derogate from my former sta- tion." His vast real estates must have sustained his credit to a limited extent, through this dark period. Although in the environs of Lake Champlain, act- ive hostilities were suspended in 1780, by the armistice, between Gen. Haldibrand and the Vermont authori- ties, they were probably inaccessible to the transient visits of peaceful citizens. The Journal of Gilliland contains notices of applications in this year for the pur- chase of land on his tracts in that territory. In the year 1783, these applications had swollen to an enor- mous amount, but no actual settlements were made until the following spring. It appears from a memorandum in 1780, and an- other in '83, in reference to contracts for the raising of ore, and the introduction of the iron manufactory, that the attention of Gilliland at this early period, had been directed to the development of the vast mineral 1 In a letter printed with the JournaL THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 77 resources of that district, and to his sagacity and obser- vation, may probably be ascribed the initiation of an industry which has constituted an essential element of the wealth and prosperity of Northern New York. In a letter addressed to a foreign correspondent, im- mediately subsequent to the revolution, Mr. Gilliland enunciates the idea of uniting Lake Champlain with the navigable waters of the Hudson — although it was merely an inchoate imagining, floating in his active and teeming brain, without any tangible or coherent form, the conception was there, and distinctly unfolded.* "When the approach of peace had removed the bar- riers to their access, Gilliland returned to his posses- sions. Six years he had been an exile, and his estates through that long period, were uncultivated and deso- late; more desolate than when he first penetrated the wilderness to create upon them culture and embelish- ments. The beauty and grandeur of nature, then re- deemed the gloom and solitude of the scene — bushes and wild vegetation now usurped fields, which toil and expense had wrested from the forests — fences were decayed, bridges had fallen, roads were broken up, charred and blackened ruins marked the site of their former homes. Notwithstanding the contemplation of these losses and sacrifices, the spirit of Gilliland was buoyant and hopeful. He claimed title to majestic possessions scarcely second to any upon the continent, in magni- tude or value. In addition to the property in the vi- cinity of the Boquet and Splitrock, itself a vast estate, he held the patent of Bessborough, the large estate at 1 This letter is referred to in the last note. 78 PIONEER HISTORY OF the mouth of the Salmon river, Cumberland head, a broad tract spreading through the present towns of Beekmantown and Chazy, and the isle of Motte, and three shares in the Dean purchase on Grand Isle in Vermont.^ The vast aggregation of these various tracts I have no data for accurately estimating. The whole would have constituted an immense manorial estate.^ This was the brightest and most auspicious epoch in the checkered life of Gilliland. Peace was restored, and the independence of the country achieved-^ he confided in the justice of the government for the re- muneration of his losses — the tide of immigration was pouring into the valley in a strong and perpetually augmenting volume, the value of his lands was en- hanced beyond his most ardent calculations, and the fruition of his enterprise, his sagacity and labors seemed maturing to his grasp. Previous to the year 1784, the Journal of Gilliland contains memoranda of contracts for the sale of land, and notices of applications for purchases, amounting in the aggregate, to nearly sixty thousand acres. But the unexplored future was garnering new trials, and preparing heavier adversity for him. These bright iQ. F. Sheldon's Manuscripts. 2 Isle La Motte, derives its name from a Capt. La Motte, who built a fort upon it at an early date of the French occupation. Mr. Shel- don informg me, that he has examined the ruins of this fort, which was a stone structure, andstood'uponalow sandy point at thenorthend of the island. The younger Gilliland stated to Mr. Sheldon, that, his father, when his interest in Isle La Motte was abrogated by the arrange- ment between New York and Vermont, reoeived from the state as an equivalent, a tract of land near Utica. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 79 gleamings of sunshine were soon to be succeeded by shadows, clouds and storms. Impediments created by designing parties, to the con- summation of Gilliland's title to a large part of his most valuable estates in Clinton county, was the first event that presaged these calamities. He had invested, as we have seen, a heavy amount of funds in the purchase of military rights, endowed by the royal proclamation of October, 1763. These rights he had located upon some of the most desirable tracts in the Champlain valley. He had caused them to be surveyed, and had improved and cultivated them by a large expenditure of money and labor. All the preliminaries prescribed by the colonial laws had been studiously performed by Gilliland, and every requisite documentary evidence upon which to authenticate the issuing of patents were filed in the appropriate offices immediately preceding the outburst of the revolutionary struggle. Owing, however, either to the confusion and agitation of the times, or as Gilliland alleged from his resistance to the attempted extortion of illegal fees, in the colonial office, no patents were issued to him for lands in Clin- ton county, to the aggregate amount of eight thousand five hundred acres. At an early period of the war, the state legislature enacted a statute abrogating all the royal grants, which had not been consummated by the actual and formal issuing of patents. Upon the establishment of peace, a vast and over- shadowing company was organized which grasped all the available lands in the sections of the state, accessi- ble to immigration. This company as Gilliland averred seized upon his documents in the surveyor general's 80 PIONEER HISTORY OP office, and on his surveys and locations based their ap- plications for and obtained patents of the most valu- able tracts. Gilliland resisted these acts of injustice and oppression, and appealed to the legislature in vain for relief.' The courts sustained the statute and pro- nounced in favor of the validity of the patents granted to this company. By these judgments Gilliland was not merely deprived of the property, but he lost the heav}' consideration he had paid in the original pur- chase of the rights, the large disbursements he had in- curred in the locations, surveys and improvement of the land, and was also amerced in heavy expenses and costs in the defence of his title. Previous to the revolution, Gilliland had created a lumber trade with Canada, which attained large pro- portions.^ On his return to his estates, he attempted to revive this business, and invested nearly all the available means he was able to control in the collection and transportation of avast raft of oak timber to Que- bec. This was confided to a faithless agent, who de- frauded him of the entire proceeds. Another episode demands attention. Its dark thread was interwoven through a series of years, in the care- worn, and troubled life of Gilliland, Jind was an active cause in producing his final ruin. Frequent allusion is made in his journal and papers to his slaves and their conduct. In one instance they manifested towards 1 His petition is incorporated under the proper date in the Journal. 2 Mr. Sheldon states that white oak staves which were prepared at this period, and piled in the woods, were found on the return of Gilli- land six years after, in a state of such preservation as to be in a mer- chantable condition. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 81 him devoted fidelity. He charges that at other times, they had been suborned by his enemies, and inflamed by the hope of emancipation in the turmoils and dis- tractions of the times, had been used to sustain unjust imputations upon him and to betray his interests. He imputes to Gen. Gates and his subordinates, in the most decided language, in the petition to the Albany committee, complicity in the secreting and deportation of these slaves. Their escape or abduction from his au- thority is fully established, but of the precise facts and his subsequent action, which involved consequences so serious, I can give no satisfactory explanation. Gilli- land undoubtedly attempted their reclamation, and exposed himself by some illegal and violent measures committed in Massachusetts, to either civil or criminal prosecution. He speaks in one place of " a fine" and in another of a private judgment "in the negro busi- ness." The judgment is in the name of Hopkins and IngersoU, of Great Barrington, Mass., who I infer, prosecuted in some official capacity. A letter to his son under date July 22d, 1791, from the prison in New York, affords a slight glimpse of the circumstances of the case. He states that the judgment against him was £696 pounds, "although Hopkins and IngersoU informed me that a present of 40 or 50 dollars, judi- ciously divided between Bristol and Flora, would sat- isfy all demands against me on that score." I gather from this letter that the state of Massachusetts was ac- cessory to these proceedings. He utters on this sub- ject the following language, which can scarcely be re- garded as either singular or unreasonable. " Squire Fowler of Westfield, was lately here to visit me, and 11 82 PIONEER HISTORY OF advised me to settle the matter with the parties, so that 1 may he immediately liberated. I answered him, that if it was an advantage to Massachusetts at large, that my slaves should he emancipated, it should be at the charge of the people of that state, and not by the owner of such slaves — as I might thereby be totally ruined to gratify such, their iniquitous wishes : that I had only been 2,300 days here and was determined to remain here several days more, rather than sacrifice my property to my utter ruin, to gratify their capri- ces." A certificate under the hand of the under sheriff of New York, states that Gilliland " was committed upon this judgment on this 21st day of September, 1786, and continued in confinement to the 3d day of December, 1791. These acts of Gilliland, whatever may have been their character and the proceedings in consequence, must have transpired immediately after the close of the war, and before the federal constitution had exacted any fugitive slave law. In the same letter Gilliland estimates his various losses, direct and incidental, from the early stages of the revolution to the year 1791, at £70,000, New York currency. In accordance with some family arrangement, Gilli- land soon after the reoccupation of his property distri- buted among his children large portions of his estate in the Champlain valley. Heavy debts, which had accumulated under the paralysis of the times, began to press severely upon him. Money was nearly unat- tainable. What pecuniary means he had saved, were either sunk in the wreck of the lumber speculation, or diverted to their own purposes by those to whom THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 83 they had been confided. The wheels of business were again in motion, but their movements were still feeble and irregular. 'No property, and least of all landed estates, afforded any revenue. Numerous salts were commenced against him and heavy judgments were impending. Many of these claims, such as that resulting from the slave difficulty he considered unjust and iniquitous. Under such circumstances he determined, not wisely I think, to place his property in a position to be pro- tected against the demands he repudiated, and to pre- vent its sacrifice by creditors who had become inexora- ble. He was committed to the jail limits of New York, in September, 1786, upon the judgment of Good- rich and Ingersoll. I find among the papers of Grilli- land a circular issued in 1799, and addressed to the counsels and attorney's, (and among them appear the names of Brockholst Livingstone and Aaron Burr,) of his creditors proposing terms of settlement. I have no means of deciding whether these propositions were rejected by all the creditors, but it is certain that he was not discharged from imprisonment under the judgment of Goodrich and Ingersoll, until December, 1791. About that time he was released, but under what circumstances I have not been able to ascertain. A constitution inured to hardy and perpetual toil, withered under the eftects of confinement and inaction. A mind habituated to a constant tension and severe labor, soon yielded to the pressure of disease and the inanity of an unoccupied life. Sorrows, disappoint- ments, wrongs, and a conviction of the faithlessness of friends, crushed the sanguine spirit of Gilliland. His 84 PIONEER HISTORY OF powerful mind yielded to these accumulated woes, and while in the vigor of manhood, premature old age palsied his energies and shattered his intellect. He appears to have been restored even before his re- lease, to a consciousness of his condition, and in a let- ter to his son while in prison, after enumerating his afflictions and hopes, he exclaimed with touching pa- thos, " these things were sufficient to have produced delirium." He returned, as soon as liberated to his possessions on Lake Champlain, after another exile of nearl}'^ six years. When he went back before to his former home, he found desolation, ruin and ashes, but his energies were unabated and hope gilded the scene. Now, he was bowed doAvn' by physical infirmities — his mind was darkened — he was almost an alien, and stranger, and without estates, standing upon his former princely pos- sessions. His partial insanity was palpable, and he was considered incompetent to the charge of his affairs. He resided at Essex, in the family of his son-in-law, Daniel Ross, and wandered about the scenes of his early enterprise and aspirations, under the delusions of an imagined ownership, and his mind teeming with schemes of improvement and speculations. His knowledge of the country was so perfect, and his sagacity and judgement, although obscured, were still so reliable, that his advice was often sought in the selection and location of lots. By his usefulness in this occupation, he became connected with a power- ful association for the purchase and location of real estate, of which Piatt Rogers was the administrative head in the northern section of the state. In this THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 85 manner Gilliland created a slight pecuniary interest in their operations. About the first of February, 1796, he was on his return from a visit to Rogers, at Basin harbor upon the lake, connected with this occu- pation, and traveling as was his habit on foot, amid the snows and frosts of the season. He wandered from the path, either in an excess of his mental malady, or to examine a lot of wild land in the vicinity, which he had received for his services from the association. His absence excited alarm ; he was sought, and after an interval of some days, was found, dead and frozen in the solitudes of the mountains. Stricken by some sudden attack, or overcome by exposure, he had ap- parently lost the power of walking, and his excoriated hands and knees worn to the nerves and muscles, at- tested that he had long and fearfully struggled with hunger, exhaustion, and cold. Such was the last sad and tragic scene, in a singu- larly variegated drama, of a remarkable life. The ca- reer of Gilliland was a romance. Its strange vicissi- tudes not only invoke our sympathy and compassion, but are calculated to impart solemn and salutary ad- monition. The pioneer of the Champlain Valley thus piteously perished, in what should have been the ripeness of his years, and the plenitude of his powers and usefulness — for his age was scarcely three score. The former lord of a vast domain, the generous pat- ron and tender father, the dispenser of munificent hos- pitalities, the associate and counsellor of vice royalty, died far away from human care, of cold and famine, with no voice of love to soothe his sufierings, and no kind hand to close his dying eyes. A simple stone 86 PIONEER HISTORY OF marks his grave in ttie cemetery of the village of Essex, bearing this inscription : Sacred to the Memory of "William Gilliland, Esq., who departed this life the 2d Feb., 1796, aged 62 years. Erected by W. and II. Ross. Mr. Gilliland left an only son, William, who died some years ago. His sons William and Henry P. still occupy the patrimonial estate at the mouth of the Sal- mon river, named Janesboro by the pioneer. The eldest daughter, Elizabeth, of the elder Gilliland, mar- ried Daniel Ross ; another daughter, Charlotte, married Stephen Cuyler, and a third, Jane Willsboro, became the wifeof John Bleecker of Albany. Among the grand children by these marriages were William D. Ross, and Henry H. Ross of Essex, an eminent lawyer and distinguished citizen, and Stephen Cuyler of Essex, and Charles Cuyler, of Illinois, who still survive. Mrs. Bleecker, also left issue. Numerous descendants of Mr. Gilliland are scattered in various sections of the United States, and in the British provinces, many of whom occupy high social positions. A brief narrative of the colony created by his saga- cious energies, until the current of its affairs became swallowed up in the stream of general history, seems a necessary sequel to an appropriate memoir of Gilli- land. I am indebted to Mr. Sheldon for most of the facts embraced in the following sketch. The two first settlers in Willsboro after the Revolu- THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 87 tion, were Joseph Sheldon and Abraham Aiken of Dutchess county, New York. They traversed Lake George and Lake Champlain upon the ice, arrived at the Boquet in March, 1784, and selected Lots No. 2 and 3 of Gilliland's survey. Fourteen additional fami- lies increased the settlement in course of the same spring. Several other persons located lots and erected dwellings. From this period, progress in immigration and improvement was rapid and permanent. Li the first year of the revived colonization, the immigrants were compelled to resort to Vergennes to obtain their lumber. Their grain was freighted to Burlington, and thence transported for grinding to a mill at AViu- ooski falls, a mile and a half in the interior. The succeeding year, these embarrassments were relieved by mills which.Mr. Ross erected on the Boquet. This settlement had no political organization before the year 1788. The military power, which as we have no- ticed was appealed to in case of emergency, no longer existed. No authority seems to have prevailed be- yond the law of kindness and friendship, and the force of public sentiment. Clinton county, embracing the present territory of Essex, Clinton and a part of Frank- lin, was organized in that year, and was constituted by the towns Champlain, Plattsburgh, Willsboro, and Crown Point, which were incorporated at the same time. "Willsboro included about one half of Essex county, and parts of Clinton and Franklin, and extended over an area of nearly nine hundred square miles. At this date the settlement had no communication by land with the exterior world. A main highway had been constructed along the shore of the lake, from 88 PIONEER HISTORY OF the Willsboro falls, to Split rock, with lateral roads extending to cabins erected by pioneers, deeper in tl\e "wilderness than the mass of the colony had penetrated. A path marked by blazed trees led over the "Willsboro mountains, to the Ausable river, and from thence a wood road conducted to Plattsburgh, the shire town of this vast county. A similar contrivance probably secured the track towards Crown Point. Melchior Hotihagle was elected supervisor, and William McAuley justice of the peace, at the first town meeting of Willsboro. McAuley was also ap- pointed a judge of the court of common pleas of the county of Clinton.^ I Tradition distinguislies McAuley, vrho seems to have been the con- trolling spirit of the community in the absence of Gilliland, as a man of education and talents. The discharge of his magisterial functions, discloses the exercise of excellent judgment and great good sense. The code he pursued, was eminently adapted to the condition of a new country. His system was based on practical equity and substan- tial justice, with little regard to the subtle technicalities of the books. Numerous instances are still related of his civil and criminal adjudi- cations. Gardner vs. Frazier. The defendant had employed the plain- tiff to labor, and agreed to pay him in flour and boards, which he re- fused to do. Gardner sued, and justice McAuley rendered a judg- ment, for a specific performance by the immediate payment of the articles. The people vs. Stafl'ord. A complaint was made, that de- fendant had shingled his barn on the sabbath. .Justice McAuley rep- rimanded him severely, admonishing him to pursue a more eorrect course, and inflicted a fine of six shillings, which he informed Staf- ford he could take in potatoes. The potatoes were duly paid. One Rose was convicted of sheep stealing. The justice sentenced him to twenty lashes on the bare back, and confinement for four hours in the stocks. The lashes were at once applied, and an impromptu stock created, by taking down the garden log fence of the justice, cutting notches in the lower log to receive the ankles, wliich were confined by replacing the next log. In that condition, lying on his back, in the midst of a jeering crowd, he performed his penance for the speci- fied time. — 0. F. Sheldon^s niss. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 89 At this period the affairs of the town were conduct- ed with slight regard to forms or the requirements of the statutes. The remote settlements were essentially deprived of a participation in their management, and a plan was adopted by which an equitable apportion- ment of the town oificers was effected in its different sections. Each locality designated in a primary meet- ing the individuals who should receive the appoint- ments appropriated to that district. A delegate bore these nominations to the town meeting, by which they were usually confirmed. At the general election, the polls on the two first days were held one half day in a separate place, and at some central or populous point the whole of the third day. These expedients facili- tated and secured the enjoyment of their civil rights to the inhabitants. In the year 1790, Piatt Rogers opened a road from Basin harbor to Split rock, where it connected with a road established by Gilliland twenty-four years pre- vious. Rogers built in the same year a bridge over the Boquet at Willsboro Falls, and constructed a road from that point to Peru, in Clinton county. Large and valuable appropriations from the public lands of the state, afibrded to Rogers and his associates a liberal remuneration for these services. A road, which was, however nearly impassable, was opened to the new settlement in Lewis, Keene, and Jay.^ The alarm and excitement, which agitated the whole frontier on the defeat, in this year, of St.Clair, and the apprehension of a combined movement of the Six Na- 1 Letter from the late Levi Highby, Esq. 12 / 90 PIONEER HISTORY OF tions witli the savage tribes of the west, extended to the humble hamlets of Willsboro. A block house was erected near the modern village of Essex for the pro- tection of the inhabitants. Upon the subsequent or- ganization of Essex county, in 1799, that edifice was temporarily converted into a court house and jail. A claim advanced by the St. Regis and Caughnawaga Indians, in 1792, to a vast tract embracing most of the territory between the Mohawk and the St. Law- rence, was urged for several years with great pertenacity. This claim not only embarrassed the title to the lands of the settlers, but it agitated the public mind from the extreme terror which prevailed in the exposed set- tlements of savage hostility. Just and vigilant inves- tigation amply established the conclusion, that these tribes never possessed a title to the tract, but that the Iroquois were the original proprietors, who had long before alienated it to the whites by treaty or sales. I have remarked that Gilliland at an early period seems to have comprehended the vast importance and wealth of the mineral resources of his district, but the iron manufacture did not until 1801, attain any tan- gible form. In that year Levi Highby and Geoi'ge Troop, aided by the capital of Charles Kane, of Sche- nectady, erected a forge at "Willsboro falls. Its pro- ducts consisted chiefly of anchors and mill irons. These articles were transported to the Kew York market, by the way of White Hall, and thence by land to Fort Edward, where they were again shipped in bateaux. Anchors were brought from Quebec, to be repaired at these works, as there was no forge at that time and long after in Canada, competent to perform such la- THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 91 bor. This establishment for a series of years was the most important iron manufactory in the environs of Lake Champlain. After an interval of nearly forty years, hostile British vessels, during the war of 1812, again entered the wa- ters of the Boquet. They committed considerable de- predations, but were promptly repulsed by the militia of the vicinity. In conformity with my plan, I now proceed to lay before the reader the most important and interesting portion of my work, and that which has inspired the whole. This embraces the journal of Gilliland, com- mencing on the 10th of May, 1765, and pursued from day to day, through the early period of the coloniza- ton, and letters and various other documents illustra- tive of his career. I fear, that by some readers, my notes may be considered too minute and copious. My object has been, in the augmented labor I have given to this duty, to explain as far as practicable the events in the life of Gilliland, which are recorded, and to localize scenes and incidents which he notices. 92 PIONEER HISTORY OF WILLSBOROUGH TOWl^ BOOK. Commencing the 10th day of June, 1765. 1765, May 10. This day I embarked at New York, for Albany, baving the following persons in company to settle that tract of laud,^ viz.: The Rev. George Henry, Minister. 1 John Chislm, millwright, to work 4s "^ day and found. 2 Robert Maclane, " " £5 f mo. and found. 3 George Melson, carpenter, " £3:12"^ mo. and found. 4 John Mattoon, clerk, at £25 '^ ann. and found. 5 James Storkner, weaver, at 40s^ '^ mo. if wanted. 6 Robert McAuley, do do do 7 John McAuley, do do do 8 George Belton, do do do 9 Mrs. Belton, wife to the foregoing of same name. J " That tract of land." I infer from this language as well as the occa- sional endorsement on the journal, " Journal from New York to Wills- boro," that it is continuous of a previous document, which is now lost. ^The currency here me'btioned and throughout the work, unless ster- ling, is specified in the New York colonial currency at $2.50 to the pound. The low wages in comparison with the charges at the present day, for the same class of mechanics and laborers, is a striking fact, especially when we consider the innumerable privations and expos- ures, to which, in a wilderness remote from civilization, the services of these men subjected them. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 93 10 Mrs. Chislm, wife to the foregoing of same name. 11 Catherine Shepherd, hired to keep house. 12 Mary Craig indentured for four years. May 13th, arrived at Albany, all well. May 14th, Isaac Bush, and William Barnes, drovers, arrived at Albany, with 20 oxen, 20 cows, 1 bull, and a number of calves for me.^ May 18th, Embarked in four bateaux,^ to proceed to Fort Edward, having to the amount of eighty barrels lit does not appear at what place these cattle had been collected, but Albany itself is about one hundred and fifty miles from Willsboro, by the route traveled. The transportation of so large a number of cat- tle this great distance, by land, in bateaux, swimming them across the lake, and through a wild and nearly untrodden wilderness, ex- hibits a perseverance and energy, we shall find characteristic of the man. * (Bateaux.) These boats, at this day unknown to our waters, were in the last century, and indeed until the construction of the canals, the chief medium of transportation upon our inland waters. They were used for freighting upon the Mohawk, the upper waters of the Hudson, Lake George and to a considerable extent on Lake Champlain. They navigated, in great numbers, the Mohawk from Schenectady to Rome, and much of the emigration to the West was at that period conducted by this agency. I recur with the most pleasant recollections to a voy- age made on the Mohawk with my father in the years 1819 or '20. He dismissed our carriage in Utica, and embarked upon a bateau, and descended to Schenectady. There were several passengers on board, and I think we went on shore both to take our meals and to lodg^ The trip was to me of great interest. The downward voyage of the bateau was quite rapid and pleasant, but the ascent, which was mainly effected by poling, was very slow and laborious. The bateaux were used on the Hudson above Albany, and are frequently mentioned in the expedition of Burgoyne. They were built long and wide, with flat bottoms and usually were not designed for passengers. They were generally without decks, but frequently constructed with cabins in the stern. They were propelled chiefly by oars and poles, but often used sails. 94 PIONEER HISTORY OF of stores and all the people on board ; being detained until now for two Bateaux, ordered from Schenec- tady. 19th, arrived at Half Moon, where we were joined the 20th, by "William Luckcy, cooper and farmer, to get 40s "^ month. 2l8t, arrived at Robinson. 22d, arrived at Stillwater. 23d, arrived at Saratoga. 24th, arrived at Fort Miller. 2oth, proceeded up on our way to Fort Edward. 26th, arrived at Fort Edward, where we were joined 27tli, by Martin Tayler, farmer, at 458 '^ month. 1765. Journal from I!^ew York to Willsboro. May 29th, arrived at Fort George, ^ with all the people, cattle. Bateaux and goods, and 30th, were joined byEliachim Ayres, wagon maker, 72s "^ month, and Samuel Jackson, blacksmith, 70s "^ month. 'The occupation of the environs of Lake George by military posts, and the roads which must have been made to facilitate the movements of the British armies in these various campaigns against the hostile fortresses on Lake Champlain, had probably rendered the way by Eake George, the avenue of intercourse between the Hudson and Lake Champlain and Canada. The route either by Skeensboro, the present Whitehall, or South bay, unless such facilities existed, would have been far more convenient and economical to Gilliland, and would have avoided many delays and expenses. As a prominent object in the dis- interring of this journal, is to illustrate the progress and change, both physical and commercial, the lapse of a century has produced, I think it expedient to direct attention to incidents and facts like these, however obvious the suggestions may appear to the intelligent reader, familiar with the history of the district. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 95 'N. B. The wages to commence payable to the whole after the arrival at "Willsboro ; none being engaged for a fixed time save Robert Maclane, who is engaged for twelve months after the arrival, and George Will- son, to 1st !N'ov. 31st, embarked at Fort George, for Ticonderoga with all the people and goods in the four bateaux, and all the cattle in the vessel called the Snow shoe, and arrived at Saml Adams, at Sabbath day point, where we got the cattle on shore and lodged all night. June 1st, arrived at Ticonderoga landing.^ 2d, busy getting the goods and bateaux acrost the landing. 3d, ditto. 4th, proceeded to Crown Point where we arrived the 5th, having left the whole of the cattle there under the care of William Luckey,(except 4 oxen left at Ti- conderoga with Martin Tayler and my negro man Ireland, to haul logs to the saw mill ^ in lieu of 120 boards got there, and which were rafted down to Crown Point by E. Ayres and J. "Wattson,) we pro- ceeded the 7th, from Crown Point to Willsboro, the boards having overtaken us that morning at Crown Point. 'This landing is at thefoot of LakeGeorge, atthepoint where Aber- crombie effected his disembarkations. The carrying place is about four miles long. *Saw mills were erected at an early period of their occupation by the French, on the outlet of Lake George. This stream supplies a re- markable water power, wliich from its singular equilibrity, capacity, and innumerable sites, is probably equal to any upon the continent. A saw mill at this place was occupied during the assault of Ticonde- roga by Abercrombie. 96 PIONEER HISTORY OF June 8th/ arrived at tlie mouth of the Boquet, pro- ceeded up the river to the falls, viewed them there with John Chislm in company, who thought it would be impracticable to erect mills there except at vast ex- pense.^ June 8th, upon which we returned a good deal dejected to the people whom we left at the river's mouth. June 9th, Robert Mclane and Eliakim Ayres arrived at the river Boquet with the raft of boards, having been assisted by Moses Dickson, tailor, who joined us the 7th instant, at Crown Point, at 40s per mo. and to 1 Here commences what Gilliland terms the AVillsboro town book. 'The Boquet is a beautiful and valuable stream which rises among the Adirondacs, and after draining by its affluents a wide territory, courses through Essex county, a distance of about forty miles, and falls into the Champlain at Willsboro. The origin of this name has been a subject of much discussion. In the tradition of the region, it has been sometimes referred to Gen. Boquet, a prominent British com- mander in the French wars — although he commanded in armies ope- rating at the west. I am not aware of any authentic notice of him, anterior to the period which originated the name, or in connection with the campaigns near Lake Champlain. By others the name is supposed to have been derived from the great profusion of wild flowers which adorned the banks of the river. The most probable origin, I think, is in the French word haquet, trough. This term would havebeen remarkablydescriptiveof tbeappearance of contains, 16 " 56 " Hipottl' ^ Laid down by a scale of 40 chains to one Inch. Acres, 133. 2. 33. Lot No. 25, begins at last mentioned poplar tree, and runs thence west 137 chains ; south 10^ chains ; thence east 145 chains and 79 links, to a tree standing on the shore of the lake marked H. W. (beiiig about 2 chains distant from that point of the shore of the lake that's on the same meridian with Wattson's hut) ; iThe colonists were Irishmen and these familiar Celtic names attest their characteristic genial memory of their native land. 110 PIONEER HISTORY OF then north, 45 cleg, west 15 chains to a heap of stones which lie about J chain east of the poplar tree begun at : containing ]^. B. This lot is taken up by William Luckey, who in conjunction with George Belton, gives it and lot No. 24, the name of Little Britain.^ No. 1, being 137 chains by 10>4 chains, contains 140. 1. 23, No. 2, being the Triangle, whoso base is 10 ch. So linksi Perpend' 8 '• 79 " > contains 5. 2- 14. Hypothenuse 15 " " > Acres, 147. 0. 2. Monday, 6th October, 1763, went in a bateau to visit my tract of land at Cumberland bay, in company with John Chislm, Eliakem Ayres, John Waltron and James Stocker, on our passage, went ashore on the 2 most western of the 4 Islands, found the most east- ward of those being largest of the 4 to contain 4 or 5 acres of choice land, and the westward one is rich, but all covered with brush, it may be about 3 acres,^ ^ I have copied these minute surveys, I think foi' sufficient reasons. They evince the care and precision, as well as activity of Gilliland in the conduct of his affairs, and are interesting to antiquarian research. Jones's Patent, which was the first location he made, still embraces Milltown or Willsboro Falls, and six other patents, which I suppose he also located, are now laid down on the county map, between the Boquetand Split rock, and hence it may be important to perpetuate a record of the subdivisions he established by these surveys. * These are a beautiful cluster of islands lying nearly in the center of Lake Champlain. They occupy almost the four cardinal points, and are now called the Four Brothers, a name far less imaginative than that given them by the French, ;who called them Isles des quatre vent. I have before alluded to the poetry and illustrative power of the French nomenclature. The unimpressible Briton was far less happy in the designation of physical objects. Like the abo- riginal, the French system of names has been too often superseded by descriptive terms much inferior, both in beauty and appropriate- THE CIIAMPLAIN VALLEY. Ill then passed close by Scliyler's Island, or Isle Chapon, which looks at a distance but dry stony light ground, little worth.i About six in the evening, arrived at the high sandy clift's, and encamped there. Between these is a grass swamp containing, I think about 150 acres without any trees, but is deep covered with water.^ Seventh ; this morning moved from our encamp- ness. The environs of this lake, afford constant examples of these tasteless changes. The French called one of the loftiest peaks of the Green Mountains, with most impressive force, the Lion Couchant, which the English distinguish by the colder and coarser name of Camel's Hump. iThis island, which is of some magnitude, lies near the western shore of the lake, and opposite Douglas bay. This name was ap- plied to it, as appears from the text, previous to the Revolution. The origin of the name is attributed by tradition, to the circumstance that John Schuyler, in the expedition against Canada in 1690, en- camped with his forces for some time upon the island. It was known to the French as Isle Chapon. Douglas bay at one period was called Corlear's bay. Corlear, the founder of Schenectady, the savior of the French army of De Coucelle, and the beneficent friend of the Indians, was drowned in this lake, and the appropriation of his name to this bay, seems to locate there the scene of the catastrophe. 2 The southern of these cliffs is now occupied by the residence of the Editor, and I am able from personal obsei'vation, to attest the accuracy of Mr. Gilliland's description of the whole district. I am confident of the actual position of his encampment that night. Im- mediately at the northern slope of the cliff, there is a small but pict- uresque dell, in which a perennial fountain wells up, and gliding through a verdant plat of native grasses discharges into the lake. This fountain is widely known as the Cold spring. The relics occasionally found here, indicate it to have been in other generations, an Indian resort; and even now on a summer morning, we often find an Indian encampment of a few tents, which had been extemporized in the tlell the night before. 112 PIONEER HISTORY OF ment to the above mentioned river, wliicli I call the Cullen water, and there found it alive with ducks and geese. It is about a mile to northward of the south side of the most northernlj sandy clitf, and on the south side of it is a grass swamp of about 70 acres.^ Put on our potts at the mouth of this river, which is about 60 yards wide, and proceeded up it in order to discover its falls, and their distance from the lake. First station from lake up the river, is south 88 degrees west, almost 15 chains; south 70 degrees W. 8 chains; north 50 degrees W., 16 chains to a grass swamp of 50 acres, and a dead creek, being north 65 degrees W. ; then north 60 degrees W., 6 chains; north 20 degrees "W., 10 chains; north 50 degrees east, 1 There is a mistake here, as I find no previous mention of a river. The Cullen Water of Gilliland is a branch of the Au Sable river, which was the name appropriately given to the stream by the French, and which it still retains. The characteristics referred to by Mr. Gilliland, to a great extent, continue to distinguish it. These grass swamps are natural meadows, which have been gradu- ally reclaimed from shallow bays of the lake by the alow processes of nature. They are now termed marshes, and are valuable for the hay they produce. They are essentially created by accretions and allu- vial deposits. A pole fifteen or twenty feet in length, may in places, be thrust through the soil without striking the hard pan. These marshes may afford an unlimited supply of the richest peat, or muck, for agricultural purposes. The process of accumulation is slow but constantly advancing. My own experience on the swamp, men- tioned in the preceding paragraph, illustrates this fact. I now plow parcels of land, which twenty years ago were inaccessible to cattle. Instead of being "deep covered with water" on the Gth of October, as he describes it to have been, we are generally engaged in mowing it at about that period, and in the year 18tJ], teams were driven upon it in gathering hay. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 113 15 chains to a branch that runs east to the lake; south 57 degrees west, 10 chains to the junction of three branches, then up the middle branch, north 80 west, 9 chains, when we found the left hand branch to be occasioned by a small island; then south 60 west, 3 chains to rapids that are passable for bateaux, the same course 28 chains, smooth good water, the river twice as large as Boquet and more ; then an island, main channel on right hand going up, then from the near point of the island, west about 4 chains to rapids. Then south 10 chains ; then south 60 degrees west, 35 chains; then south 10 degrees east, 20 chains; then from south-east to south-west about 120 chains to the falls, which we judge to be about 12 feet; in this place the river formed into a most curious canal ; this is a prodigious rock. It is a most admirable sight, appear- ing on each side like a regular built wall, somewhat ruinated, and one would think that this prodigious cleft was occasioned by an earthquake, their height on each side is from 40 to 100 feet in the different places; . we saw about half a mile of it, and by its appearance when we stopped, it may continue many miles further.' iThis desci-iption of the Au Sable and its delta, is most liappy and eminently accurate. It affords an example of the remarkable decrease in the volume of water now prevailing in the streams of the country, compared with their proportions a century ago. It would be totally impracticable for a boat to ascend the river at this time as described by Gilliland. The text contains the earliest notice I have seen, either in manu- script or print, of this wonderful exhibition of the operations of Nature. The eye rarely contemplates a more imposing spectacle than is presented by the passage of the Au Sable through its "walled banks." In the vicinity of Keesville, the river forces its way between lofty embankments of sandstone, and glides gently through alow valley 15 114 PIONEER HISTORY OF Returned to the mouth of this Eiver through the ITorth Branch, to our encamping ground, where we stayed this night, and found the island that is enclosed between those two branches to be an unprofitable drowned swamp. Eighth ; set out this morning from Eiver Au Sable, northerly and about a mile to the northward thereof, until it rushes over a precipice which forms a cataract of singular beau- ty. It rolls from this point along a rocky bed to the village of Birmingham, where it abruptly leaps into a deep, murky chasm of sixty feet in depth. A bridge with a single abutment resting upon a rock that divides the stream, spans the river at the head of this fall, and greatly adds to the picturesque aspect of the scene. This bridge is usually enveloped in a cloud of mist and spray, and the whole vicin- ity is dank with their moisture. In the winter, the frostwork decorates the rocks and trees with the most fantastic and gorgeous tracery. Here we discern massive columns and arcades, and there icy diamonds and pendants glittering in the sun. In the sunshine, a brilliant rainbow spreads continually its radiant arch across the gulf. The river at this precipice leaps into the embraces of a dark gulf, where for neai-ly a mile it moves along almost concealed from observation. Its impetuous volume now pours along a natural canal, carved out of the rock by the hand of nature, and now it darts wildly down a preci- pice. The wall rises on each side in a perpendicular height from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet, while the width of the chasm rarely ex- ceeds thirty feet, and frequently the opposite walls approach within ten feet to each other. From this main ravine, which embraces the river, lateral fissures are projected through the rock at nearly right angles. The abyss is reached along oneof these crevices, bya stairway of two hundred and twelve steps. These walls are formed of layers of sand stone, constructed with a formation almost as exact as the most artistic masonry. The pine and cedars which spring from the apertures in the rock, spread over the gulf a dark and appropriate canopj'. All these features form a combination that impresses upon the scene an effect inexpressivly wild, picturesque and beautiful. The agency by which this work has been created, is a problem which affords a wide scope for animated but doubtful speculation. THE CHAM PLAIN VALLEY. 115 being on the north side of a long point, discovered a considerable creek whicli from the many thousands of ducks we saw there we called Duck Creek ; we pen- etrated it and found that it is made by an overflow of the lake into a large grass swamp which was well cov- ered with good wild grass fit for hay.^ The ninth, I traveled about 300 acres up the creek, until I lost it, which was about a mile, here I walked on dry land round its most westerly end and came to the lake on the north side of it, having gone from the lake up the south side. Proceeded, through the woods from Duck Creek about a mile, until I came to a con- siderable creek of still water, which from the number of trees we saw cut by beavers, we call Beaver River, went up this river about half a mile, no appearance of Falls, but hope to discover them before the end of 2 miles :^ the land adjoining being richly covered with the best of white and black oak, and white and yellow pine, the land very good from this creek, to the begin- ning of the Sergeants Land, which is about ^ of a mile, and it is valuable to a chain or two south of Duck Creek on account of the great meadow.^ iln this paragraph, Mr. Gilliland adopts the French name of this river. The long point mentioned still exists, but largely extended by the accumulation of sand brought down by the current of the Au Sable. The stream remains very much in the condition described by Mr.Gilliland, and is now called Dead Creek. The allusion to "good ■wild grass fit for hay," is another instance of his close and discrimi- nating observation. The grass yielded by this tract is still remarkaUe for the quality of the hay it affords, and its superiority to the common marsh grasses. ^Beaver river is now called the Little Au Sable, and is only na- vigable to the point mentioned by Mr. Gilliland during the spring floods. His theory in i-cference to falls was just. 'Sergeants land: The allotments to the reduced officers were south 116 PIONEER HISTORY OF Proceeded from Beaver meadow through the woods to the Sergeant's land which begms at a large white oak tree a few yards from the strand, and is marked A on the east side. From hence proceeded to within about a mile of Cragan River to Doe Run, which is a small stream that empties itself into the lake in a small bay west of the south side of Isle Valcour, and found the land to be very good this far, and from its appear- ance may be good for half a mile further, but begins to be more ordinary witli a mixture of quaking ash, some hemlock and spruce, not much oak, a little or no pine, to a rapid stream that has water enough for a grist mill, this we call Indian brook, and so from thence to Cragan River, which I take to be about the north end of Stew- art's tract ; went up this river about 100 yards to a 10 feet falls, by carrying the water 45 yards ; this is a noble situation for a saw mill, as a dam can be made by a few hands in a day. Here is water for two mills and dead water to the foot of the falls.^ The pine ridge begins about a mile to the northwest of these falls, which is the next pine to them and it of this line, and here evidently begcan the patents to the non-commis- sioned officers, while those of the privates were probably located in a different section. ^This Indian brook, is dwarfed into an insignificant run, and shorn of all these qualities of usefulness ascribed to it by Gilliland. The Cragan river and elsewhere called in the journal St. Aren- ack, is the modern Salmon river. The privilege is still occupied, al- though the " dead water" beneath the falls is no longer navigable. The property at the mouth of this stream, which Mr. Gilliland named Janesboro, amid all the mutations and disasters which enshrouded the close of his life, seems to have been preserved to the family. It was held by his son and is still the residence of his grandsons Messrs. William and Henry P. Gilliland. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 117 continues to Savaniac river, and tlie land is ordinary between these, but worst next the last named river. But by its appearance, is good after you are about a mile west from the lake, very pretty pines in this ridge but not large, yet handy saw logs, these nearest the last named river being the best, and there the ridge inclines nearest the lake being on the very bank ; pro- ceeded about two miles up this river, which proved to be much larger than Boquet and rapid from its mouth up ; at about 400 yards from the lake there ia a rift, where the water may be conveniently lifted and by carrying it about 200 yards, will produce a fall of about 10 feet, which with 2 feet that may be raised by a small stoney dam will be enough for a mill.' The land appears extremely well on the north side of this creek (?) and abounds with choice oak and pine timber, mixed, but notwithstanding but light with a sandy bottom, but still may produce a good hearty crop to the distance of about half a mile north of the river where the land grows worse. But the pinery is much better for half a mile more, when the pinery ends and the land improves.^ 1 The Savaniac. This is the modern Saranac. The derivation of the name of this valuable and now historical stream is doubtful; until the researches of late years I had attributed it to an Indian ori- gin. The river is called St. Armant on some old French maps. In the Gilliland papers the name St. Aranack appears, but is applied perhaps erroneously to the Salmon river. Has not the French term by a gradual corruption been changed into Saranac, and transposed from the smaller to the more important stream. I find nowhere else the term Saranac applied to this river. This estimate of the vast water power at the mouth of the Saranac is perfectly correct. 2 This description of the country contiguous to the Saranac is very accurate and appreciative. The word pinery, which evidently re- 118 PIONEER HISTORY OF For another half mile, to five chains to the north- eastward of the southwest end of a long sandy beach at the bottom of Cumberland bay, in the whole of this tract at about a mile distance from the lake the land appears to be ver^^good, from thence from 6 to 12 miles back to the mountains being mostly covered with oak, ash, maple, beech, hickory, bass, elm &c. without any mixt- ure of evergreen ; from the end of the said five chains to Cumberland creek, the land and timber is very bad, opposite to it having a fine sandy beach a mile and a half long. Cumberland river is a black dead creek, no appearance of rapid or falls, but a fall could be forced.^ On the south side of this creek is a pitch pine marked A, at which Lieut. Lowe's tract begins, and takes in the whole of that Peninsula, which I walked over, and found the land to be deep and rich, no way hilly or broken, the timber chiefly oak and these of the best kind, without evergreens and very little poplar or quak- ing ash except a trifle on its shores, and the situation is most beautiful and he;artsome, projecting near four miles into the lake, though only from one and a quarter to one and a half miles in width ; from the bottom of Cumberland we proceeded homeward on Friday the eleventh of October, and arrived that night, on fers to a pine forest, is unknown to our woodcraft. That, like the language " hearty crop, " is a foreign term. 1 Cumberland river, is most aptly described as a "black dead creek." At its mouth in certain direction of the wind, quicksands dan- gerous and almost unfathomable are frequently formed. The stream is now designated Dead creek. The descriptions of this district are all perfectly faithful. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 119 our passage viewing the Islands Saint Michael, Yalcour, and Chapou or Schjder Island, all of which we found ordinary, light, rocky, stony land, and ill timbered.^ Eeturned home the 18th Oct., and employed my time from now to 31st Oct., in laying out lots, filling leases,^ and settling accounts with the people, and gave the following leases, viz. : John Chism, Lot No. 1, containing — acres. Robt. McLane, " 2, " " Eoht. McAwley, " 4, " " John King and G. Hicks, George Wilson, " 23, " " George Belton, " 24, " " William Luckey, " 25, " " Mires Dixon, " 26, " " Martin Tayler, " 27, " " Eliakim Ayers, " 28, " " November 4th. This day I gave possession to the lessees (?) Ayers, Taylor, Dixon, Chism, McLane, McAwley, Wilson, Belton, and Luckey. I proceeded to Crown Point, where I engaged prov. for my settle- iSt. Michael's island lies in Cumberland bay, was known as Crab island, and subseouently Hospital island, from the circumstance that the wounded of both fleets were landed upon it after the battle of the 11th Sep. 181-1. Valcour is the largest island in the lake embraced in the territory of New York, and possesses gieat historical interest. In one of its bays was fought the sanguinary battle between Carlton and Arnold. On the opposite side the fleet of Amherst vanquished the French flotilla and extinguished the last vestige of the domination of France upon Lake Champlain. The theatre of McDonough's victory lies between the northern extremity of Valcour and Cumberland head. "^ Filling Leases. This language indicates the system of leasing which Gilliland had adopted in his colony, and which was pursued until subsequent to the Revolution. 120 PIONEER HISTORY OF nient until summer next and then continued my journey to New York, where I arrived the 20th November.^ 7th ISTov., this evening the SBatteaux returned from Crown Point loaded with provisions. 11th Nov., dispatched 3 Batteaux to Crown Point for some of the provision, and they returned loaded the 14th.2 17th Nov., began to make a road from Milltown to R. McAwley's barn. 20th and 21st Nov., Wm. Luckey, and John "Wat- son divided the hay. 24th Nov., began to clear a road to south itieadow from the lake, and to make a yard for cattle at Wm. Luckey's lot. 29th Nov., Began to look for the cattle, having sent out 3 men. 2d Dec, this morning began a snow storm, being found to be the first lying snow, and this day complet- ed the road to McAwley's, which in all took 33 hands for one day. 3d Dec, began to make a road from McAwley's to Elizabeth bay. Yesterday we got the first part of our cattle, 6 in number. iThe journal of proceedings during bis absence is in the writing of Mr. Gilliland, and was probably formed from tbe memoranda of his steward. ^This resort to Crown Point for supplies shows it to have been at that period a place of business. The early condition, and extent and character of the settlement at Crown Point is a subject which has stimulated earnestly my antiquarian interests and investigation. I think the evidences quite decisive that it was previous to the Revolu- tion, and especially during the French invasion, a village of considera- ble population, and extended business relations with both Canada and the British colonies. I have disclosed my views on this question in a previous page. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 121 4th Dec, Excessive cold, the snow deep, McLane, and Ayers began to make shingles at Luckey's. 7th Dec, McLane and Ayers returned home. 10th Dec, raised our barn. 24th Dec, this day the lake opposite Willsboro froze up.^ 1766, 1st Jan., the severe cold obliged our hands to quit the road this day at Eliz* point and come home. 2d Jan., from this time to the ISth, employed the men cutting logs, fire wood, &c Jan. 15th, sent hands to complete the road to Eliz"' meadow which was effected in two days. Snow 2 feet deep. 17th Jan., sent hands to finish the road to Eliz'' point which was completed by the 24th Jan., which made it clear from the Mills to Eliz^ meadow.^ 28th Jan., sent 2 men with a team of oxen to Eliz* meadow for hay, and they did not return to 1st Feb- ruary. This was the first hay sent for. 1st Feb., this day all the cattle were brought to ]Mill- town from Wm. Luckey's. 2d Feb., sent the cattle to Eliz* meadow, save 2 weak cows which kept at home, and 4 oxen to draw fire wood and saw logs. And sent hands to make a yard for the hay and do. for the cattle atEliz'' meadow. 13th Feb., all the stock of sugar and molasses were quite expended. loth Feb., All the 8bbl. pork and 3 carcases of beef 1 This is mueli earlier tban the average time of the lake's closing by the ice. 2 These localities called Elizabeth, were at and near the present village of Essex. 16 122 PIONEER HISTORY OF being finished. J. "VV. set out for Crown Point for sweetening which he sent home the 20th. 27th Feb.,. This day J. W. returned from Crown Point having brought 1 bbh rum, 1 bbL molasses, and Ibbh pork from thence to Sloop island, whence it was brought by a sleigh and pair from C. Point which was obliged to insure at £50. Ayers and King had been for several days absent, some thought they were hunt- ing, others thought they ran off". 28th Feb., this day Luckey, Hicks and Taylor, — but word being come up that Ayers and King were returned, those 3 went to them. 1st March, 1763. This morning Ayers, King, Hicks, Luckey, and Taylor, came up to J. W. all armed ; and offering back the goods they had bought and used, and made a charge of 6s per. day and victuals for their labour, insisted on getting their notes up, for that they now determined to quit the settlement, and if he did not comply with this their ofi'er they would take their all with them. He then set oft' privately for Crown Point on March 3d. On the night of the 4th returned with 6 soldiers, lay all night at George Belton's, there he got intelligence that all were gone oft'.^ lit is evident from tliis resort to the military arm, that no civil jurisdiction had been extended to this remote settlement. All power seems to have been exercised by Gilliland, and his government was usually almost patriarchal, although we shall meet with some singu- lar exhibitions of arbitrary authority, which however the circumstan- ces probably justified. These difficulties occurred during his absence, by which his influence had become diminished. This J. W. I infer was John Watson, mentioned in the list of immigrants, who was the half brother of Gilliland and was dignified by him with the title of Steward. Mr. Sheldon states that Gilliland, while south, was ap- pointed a mugistrate. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 128 5tli March. Set out from G. Belton's for Milltown, found G. Hicks' house locked up. At Ayers found all their cattle ready shod, brought all the cattle home and marked them W. G., leaving a guard over Ayers' house least Mrs. Ayers or Mrs. Hicks should run away with intelligence after the fellows, who were but a lit- tle way off.^ Made immediate pursuit after the fellows from Ayer's to Bay Perrow f we soon came up with a large chest; about half way from the river to the bay found the ox sleigh well loaded, proceeded on to within ^ mile of the bay, where found Mr. Ayers and George Hicks, returning, after sending the others off ; here discovered Hicks, proceeded to the bay, but could not see any of the others, they made quite off; then returned and brought all the goods home tins night. 6th, 7th, 8th March, the soldiers being storm-staid, set them to clear the ice from the trough and saw mill. 9th March, J. W. set out with the soldiers for Crown Point, where he was detained 4 days, during which time he bought from Mr. Benzol the time of David Phleming, and from Capt. Browii's man 2 sows in pig, and was then obliged to pay £5 or =£6 for mending soldiers' guns, which were broke by falling on the ice. 1 This summai'y procedure in seizing and marking the cattle of these fugitive tenants, wasone of those arbitrary acts which the circumstan- ces appear to have rendered necessary. These measures were the acts of Watson. * Bay Perrow. This name, written Perue, designated on all the old maps a deep indentation of the western shore of the lake, which is now known as Willsboro bay. The original name was undoubtedly applied by the French, but I have not been able to trace its meaning or derivation. 124 PIONEER HISTORY OF 19tli March, J. W. set out from Crown Point for "Willsborongh. 30tli March, this day river thawed, and the saw mill was set a going. 12th April, the wood feed^ being good, the cattle betook to it, deserting their hay. 'N. B. : the hay at Eliz" meadow being finished, 24th March, the cattle were then sent to Lackey's yard, where there was some remaining. 13th April, shot 3 dogs for having torn and abused my large sow. 14th April, this day sent 3 hands to raise R. McAu- ley's house. 15th April, sent to Crown Point for prov', and got 4 barrels flour, and 5 firkins butter — all condemned. Mr Chism stayed behind; the others ref* the 19th, at this time the run away settlers came for their wives, and our red cow with white face died, ha\ang loss'd an old white cow the 23d March. 21st April, 1766 : this day Thomas Brady helped G. Belton at his house. 23d Apr., this day 5 of my hands helped do at do. 26th Apr., threw out the fishing seine for the first time in 1766, got only 8 suckers. 29th, J. W. and two other hands went to Crown Point for peas, and ret* May 2d, with 4 bbls condemned, and Wm. Ferris and his wife. May 4th, Wm. Ferris began to work at 458 per. mo. and found. 1 Wood feed. This expression, which I hare nowhere seen before, must be equivalent to the common term browse. The juicy twigs and swollen buds afford a very comfortable sustenance for cattle often at this season. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 125 May 8tli, sowed the first of our garden seed.^ 10th May, AVm. Ferris quit our work, being 6| days. 11th May, set the first of our potatoes. 19th May, this day J. W. set out for to meet me, which he did at Stillwater, and finding me sick and unable to travel, he returned with Nehemiah Smith, his wife, son and daughter, Arch** McLaughlin, black- smith, Catharine Welsh and Betsey Williams, who all arrived at Willsborough, 4 June. 10th June, J. Watson set out again for Ticonderoga, where he met me, and returned to Willsborough, the 15th, with stores, &c. 16th June, 1766, this day John McElrea, Israel Dibble and Martin Dudley arrived at Willsborough, the former commenced this day week at X18 "^ ann., and the 2 latter this day at 45s '^ mo. Sunday, 22d June, about 1 o'clock this day, I Wil- liam Gilliland, with my wife, Mrs. Eliz* Gilliland, my mother Mrs. Jane Gilliland, my sister Miss Charity Gilliland, my brother Mr. James Gilliland,^ my daugh- ter Miss Eliz"- Gilliland, my niece Miss Eliz* Hamilton, my servant girl Rachel McFardin, and my negro man Ireland, all arrived at Milltown, in Willsborough, with 2 Bateau loads of stores, having left New York with 22 wagon loads of stores, furniture &c. on the 28th of April last. 1 The various entries which occur in the Journal in relation to the weather and operations of agriculture, manifest that little or no change in the seasons has taken place for the century which has elapsed since Gilliland's colonization. 2 James Gilliland became an officer in the American army, and was distinguished for his services, particularly at the seige of Yorktown. 126 PIONEER HISTORY OF 29th. April, was taken ill on board the Albany sloop. 3(1 May, arrived at Albany, where I was confined to my room, sometimes to my bed, until Saturday, 10th May, then set out with the Rev'' Mr Henry of Quebec, and his family; they in one Bateau, we in t'other; they requested the company of our daughter Jane, and Mrs. Henry seeming very desirious for her, and our Batteau being small and heavy loaded, we consented; they were stronger man'd than we, and soon left us behind ; they got to Half Moon i hour before us, and by the unskillfulness of their hands, kept the wrong side of the river, (being the east side) and by endeavoring to get up the river, (being obliged to keep close to the bank) they set the Bateau under a tree, whose top fell into the water, the root still keep- ing its place on the bank, and the strength of the cur- rent pressing on the bow of the Bateau which was next to the shore, turned her almost broadside to the stream, by which means she was forced under the top of the said tree which laid in the water, instantly filled and sunk, all the passengers and cargo being afloat, went adrift, Mr. Henry, his wife, three eldest sons, his 2d daughter, and the three Bateau men all saved them- selves by laying hold of the limbs and branches of the tree and by each other, whilst my lovely daughter and Mr. Henrj^'s 2 youngest sons went adrift down with the current; my daughter floated about half a mile, Mr. Henry's youngest, son floated about a mile, who having a scrap of back accidentally under his head, kept on his back above water, so great away that he was taken up by a Canoe's crew, who went in pursuit of them; but Mr. Henry's youngest son but one was TUE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 127 drowned, and was taken up five miles below Albany 12 days after. lltli May, tliis day my daughter was taken up at or close by tlie place she sank. 12th May, removed her corpse to Coleman's, in Stillwater by his desire and request, who having laid out his family burying ground near his house, our daughter was decently interred there on Tuesday, 13th May, aged 6 years wanting 12 days, and the wonder of her age for beauty, stature, politeness, dis- cretion, education, propriety of language, sweetness of temper, gracefulness of address, strength of genius and memory, and above all of charity, and every other vir- tue, never having shown the reverse by. either word or action — ever generous and benevolent. Her sudden death struck all her acquaintances with the most seri- ous affliction, was as generally lamented as was her acquaintance extensive. Many who had never seen her, who only knew her character, bewailed her death with tears in their eyes ; how poignant then must have been the loss of so lovely a child to her fond parents, as well as to her grand mother and other relations. But great is our consolation in the steadfast hopes of her having made a happy change, and that through Christ's Right- eousness and mercy, she is now gloryfying her and our God, our Glorious Redeemer in His ever blessed mansions above. My illness continuing, detained me at Stillwater with all my family for 16 days, during which time I was bled and blistered several times to remove a dis- order in my eyes, which for a considerable time de- 1 28 PIONEER HISTORY OF prived me of sight, whilst Mr. John Watson and John McAuley arrived from Wiilshorough. Sent my stores by Watson to Saratoga, and being somewhat recovered, followed them thither with my family, was taken ill there again, and thereby detained us there 5 days, then got a wagon to carry us to Fort George. 28th May, being Wednesday, staid there 5 days and left it Monday, 2d June, and arrived at fort George on that day, in the evn'g. My illness continuing, detained us all at fort George for 9 days, from the 2d, to Wednesday, 11th June, then put all my stores and embarked my- self and family on board of Wm Stoughton's schooner, and having a fair wind arrived this evening at Ticon- deroga landing, where being necessarily detained the 12th, embarked the next day on board the sloop Musquenunge, and in a passage of If hours arrived at Crown Point on the evening of Friday the 13th June, then arrived at Crown Point, here my disorders returning, I was confined by my room, often to bed, to Saturday the 21st June, then left Crown Point and the wind be- ing favorable arrived the evening of this day, pretty late at George Belton's, where we staid all night and the next day being Sunday, 22d June, proceeded on our journey, and arrived in Milltown, in Willsboro. Mrs. Eliz"' Gilliland my spouse being the first lady of our family that landed in Willsborough. N. B. Let it be remembered that Samuel Jackson, blacksmith, run away from Willsboro the 10th March, 1766. Robert McLane, and George Wilson, quit my THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 129 employ the 2cl, June, 1766, and went olf, the former enticed away my bound servant maid Mary Craig. She being great with child to him. Whilst at Crown Point I accidentally metwith Wm. Luckey, who I had taken on my warrent for debt and brought him prisoner to "Willsborough (Robt. McAuley, constable,) when after reflecting how much he was in my power he agreed to serve me for the amount of his debt and com- menced in my employ on the — June, 1766, at 45s '^ mo. or £25 "^ annum being — days after I arrived liere.^ 23d June, from this time I continued in an indifler- ent state of health, sometimes better, sometimes worse to Aug. — Employed my hands, some making a fence round the garden, some going to Crown Point for prov', some enclosing a yard in front of the house, one 'tother side of the trough, making a bum proof &c. &c. to the 14th July, then sent my men to the meadows to make hay which they accomplished agst. iThis singular incident exhibits tlie energy and decision whicli are such marked features in the character of Gilliland, and which enabled him to conduct so succesfully the trying scenes of his colonization. It is of interest, also, as it reveals the arbitrary means by which power was exercised in the remote settlements of the country at that early period. We have seen the steward invoking the military arm for pro- tection from the acts of insubordinate tenants, and making seizure of their cattle without the pretense of any civil process. No political or- ganization existed a hundred years ago on the banks of Lake Cham- plain. There is not the slightest allusion in this journal or elsewhere to the presence of courts or magistrates. Gilliland bore with him a commission as justice of the peace, on his return from the south. No gaol could have then existed at Willsboro. We have no evidence of any authority being exerted in this transaction except force, and such was probably in similar circumstances uniformly exercised. Yet the remedy used was evidently efl'ective and seems to have promoted sub- stantial justice. 17 130 PIONEER HISTORY OF 21st Aug., having made in soiitli meadow 20 tramp cocks, and in Eliz* meadow 16 do. All being much larger and better hay than we got last year, for which reason we did not cut any hay in swamp meadow.^ Making these 36 cocks employed a man — day, — of which were lossed in the men's coming back and forward on Saturdays and Mondays, the wages amount- ed to <£ The liqr. amounted to .... . The sweetning amounted to ... The provisions amounted to . The things lost and broken amounted to . Total £ which makes the hay come at 25s 4Jp ^ cock. G. Belton, gets in South meadow, . . . 2^ Tramp cocks. Mr. McAuley, in do . . . . OJ do in Eliz* meadow, ... 4 Tho. Chism, do at Belton's, . . . OJ do at Eliz* meadow, ... 1 Nehemiah Smith, at South meadow, . . . 0| do at Eliz"^ meadow, ... 1 Wm. Gillilaud, brought from S° meadow , . 7f do brought from Eliz* meadow, . 6 do left for cattle in S" meadow, . . 8^ do left in Eliz'' meadow, . . . 4 in all . , . . 36 ' This fact illustrates the careful observation of Gilliland, and his conclusions are justified by constant experience. Frequent cutting improves the quality of wild grass, and as I have before remarked, the hay produced from the beaver meadow is vastly superior to that found upon the marshes. THE CIIAMPLAIN VALLEY. 131 "Wliat I brouglit home was for the supply of 6 oxen that plowed, &c. in the fall and spring, and for 2 milch cows, and 1 young calf, and 4 oxen all winter. What I left in the meadows is to supply 1 large bull ; 8 oxen ; 4 yearlings ; 2 young calves, at the meadow, and that in the woods ; 8 milch and dry cows. Being in all Ibull, 12 oxen, 10 cows, 4 yearlings, and4 young calves, the whole of my black or horned cattle at this time. 28th July, Mr. Dean arrived at Milltown from New York with an order of survey, and a surveyor to survey Grand isle. 31st July, I embarked with Dean and Mr. Thomp- son, surveyor, and Mr. Geo. Rice, for Grand Isle, where we arrived this evening, stayed there viewing the land (which and the timber are found to be extra good) to Saturday, 9th Aug., when we all proceeded homeward; on our way we stopped at the river AlamoUie^ which lies about east of the south end cape of Grand Isle; is a very large river, much larger than Otter creek ; went about 6 miles up it, no falls or rapids appeared, continued smooth, deep and wide, is well stored with fish, the land on both sides very sandy and bad, much ordinary pine timber. Near the lake the land is very low, looks as if flooded in spring. When my men came home from the meadows, 1 " River Alamollie." The Lamoille, " It is said to have been dis- covered by Champlain in 1609, and called by him La Mouette, the French for gull, a species of water fowl which are very numerous about the mouth of this stream. In Charlevoix maps of the discoveries in North America, published in 1744, it is called la riviei-e a la Mouelle, probably a mistake of the engraver in not crossing the ts. Thus by 132 PIONEER HISTORY OF 21st Aug., set them about clearing the whole of Camp island, fencing it, &c. 30th Aug., Embarked with Mr. Dean, Mr. Watson, and Mr. Rice, and Mr. Thompson for Crown Point, in order to give Mr. Dean, and Mr. Rice, a convoy with my Bateau and to meet Gov. Sir Henry Moore, who is expected about noon at CroAvn Point ; arrived at Crown Point this evening, proceeded 31st Aug., with them for Ticonderoga ; there they could not get a boat to cross Lake George, therefore I consented to give them a convoy to Ft. George, we ar- rived the 2d September, there I met with the following Genf Sir Henry Moore, Governor of New York, General Carlton, ^ Governor of Quebec province and Brig'' Gen^ of the district, Philip Schyler Esq.,^Robert HarperEsq., Charles Fredenburg, formerly a Captain, — Carlton Esq., nephew to General Carlton, Mr. John McKesson Atty; the four first gent" undertook this journey in order to fix the bounds betwixt the two provinces of New York and Quebec, by discovering the true lati- tude of 45** north, on which Mr. Harper acted as As- tronomer. Gov"^ Moore immediately gave me an invi- tation to become one at his table, which I accepted, he and Gov"" Carlton accepted my invitation to take their passage in my Bateaux across the lakes, and we all arrived safe at Crown Point on Saturday, 6th Sep., the mere carelessness of a French Artist are we indebted for the smooth, melodious sounding name of La Moille." — Thompson s Vt. Gilliland should have reversed his estimate of the comparative magni- tude of these streams. I Sir Guy Carlton, and subsequently Lord Dorchester. * General Schuyler of the Revolution. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 133 1766, on which day I forewarned Cha' Fredenbnrgh Esq. agauist trespassing on my lands opposite Isle Valcour, in the presence of both Gov" Mr. Schyler, Mr. Carlton and Mr. Harper.^ 7th Sep., took an observation by the Sun at Crown Point, (which was afterwards corroborated by a noc- turnal observation) and found it to be Lat^ 44° 1' 20" ; after dinner embarked for home in my Bateau ; the Governors and other gentlemen embarking before din- ner, in the sloop. Overtook them at Button Mould Bay and went aboard the sloop, where dinner being just served up, I dined with them; there being littie or no wind, tarried with them 4 or 5 hours, and then pushed off in my boat for home, where I arrived about one in the morning, found all well. 9th Sept., mustered up all my men and set out, all being armed for my lower tract opposite Isle Valcour, in order to build a possession house, at the River St. Aranack, (or Cragan river) and to oppose Mr. Fred- enburgh, should he attempt to make encroachments there ;^ arrived there this evening. 10th Sejjt., this morning set four hands about build- 1 Fredenburgh occupied at an early day, the site of the present vil- lage of Plattsburgh, and his patent embraced the adjacent territory. A water power on the Saranac still bears the name of Fredenburgh Falls. {See a previous note.) 2 These proceedings, almost in the presence of the Governor of the Province, again manifests the absence of all legal authority upon the shores of Champlain, and the prevalence of force in the assertion of personal rights. The course of Gilliland seems to have been success- ful, for the location of the patent to Fredenburgh, granted in 1769, passed along the west lines of Stewart &. Friswell's patents and terminated at the foot of Cumberland Head possessions claimed by Gilliland. 134 PIONEER HISTORY OF ing the house whilst m3^self with the others, proceeded to the Congress, for settling the Lat'' at Wind Mill Point, having brought 3 shoats, some salmon and a fat calf for the Governors, who thankfully received them, being almost out of fresh provisions ; arrived at the Congress this evening pretty late,^ 12th Sep., went to Kiver La.Cole, and settled with Eliakim Ayres, George Hicks, John King, Moses Dixon and Martin Taylor, who acknowledge their ac- count, by me exhibited in the presence of their over- seer, Mr. Alvis.^ 13th Sep., finding the weather continue rainy and cloudy and that there was no liklihood of the latitude being soon determined, and Mrs. Gilliland being past her reckoning, took my leave of the Governor, who promised me his friendship, and that he would visit us on his return, and pushed off for Cragan river where arrived late this night, raised all the men to hang a door on the house, and fasten, which they did, and thereby finished it. 14th Sep., this morning set out for Willsborough, where arrived in the afternoon, having brought home a birch canoe which we found on Cumberland Head; found all well. 18th Sep., brought a cock of hay from south meadow, sj* the first this season ; this day G. Belton moved to his "^ house at Cloven Rock. 1 The above incident manifests Gilliland's acquaintance with the amenities of refined society, as well as the liberality of his character. He uses the term "Congress," in its European acceptation before it had become memorable in its American use. 2 These men were the fugitive tenants whose violent proceedings we have already noticed. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 135 20th Sep., this day Sr. Henry Moore, Col. Reicl, Philip Schyler, Robert Harper and Adolphns Benzel Esq's, called and drank tea &c.!\vith ns on their re- turn from Astronomer's Island, having completed their observation to satisfaction, and fixed the line about 3 miles to the northward of Wind Mill Point.^ This day George Belton so\^ed his first wheat. 21st Sep., Jane Willsborough Gilliland, was born this evening between 8 and 9 o'clock; her mother having been about 3 hours ill. Capt. Wharton being then here. (Died at Stillwater, Thursday evening, 4th of Jan. 1798, at ^ after viii o'clock, ^ 31yrs, 3mo. and 14ds. Interpolated by another hand.) 3d and 4th October, these 2 days sowed and har- rowed our wheat. 17th Oct., Mess. McAuley sowetl their wheat. 'This event is recorded in the Colonial History. Governor Moore, in a report to tlie board of plantations, Nov. '66 states : "We fixed the boundary about 2J miles below Wind Mill Point, which is further to the northward than we imagined to find it, from the observations said to have been made there by the French some years ago." This line was undisturbed until its error was ascertained by the mutual commission which established the boundary between the British and American possessions under the treaty of Ghent, when the accuracy of the French survey was determined. The original line, as laid in 1766, was restored by the Webster and Ashburton Treaty. These facts illustrate the superiority in talent, skill and science, which marked the action and policy of the French officials in every department upon this continent. It is exemplified throughout our Colonial History. My father brought from Europe a Chart of Lake Champlain, published in 1784, and based upon the French surveys, which embraced the soundings of every portion of the lake, and exhibited the most minute rocks and reefs that imperil navigation, with perfect accuracy. I think that our topographical bureaux now include nothing of the kind. 136 PIONEER HISTORY OF 2l8t Oct., paid off Jabez Rucld and discharged him. 23d Oct., Nehemiah Smith sowed his wheat. 28th Oct., this day N. Smith put up his logs and "W. McAuley arrived. 15th Oct., George Belton sowed his last wheat.^ 7th Nov., paid off Isaac Williams and John Smith, who went away. 11th Nov., John Smith returned to my employ, and to continue at 45s "^ mo., to 1st April next, then to take a farm. 18th Nov., the navigation of our river from the spring well to Chism's, was this day stop'd by ice. 22d Nov., this day paid oft' Fran' Galland, who this day went away. 26th Nov., John McAuley with some hands, went to Canada for wheat ; this day we had the first snow storm, an inch deep. 28th Nov., Snow all gone. 30th Nov., snowed all day, with some rain, this open- ed the river. 1st Dec, Froze hard, the river froze again. 2d Dec, The saw mill stopped as was the turning mill some days ago, good walking on the ice to the mouth of the river. 3d Dec, Snow, sent men to collect our cattle and iThe culture of wheat was a prominent feature in the Agriculture of Northern New York for many years after its occupation. When roads had been opened subsequent to the Revolution, vast quantities were transported to Southern markets by sleighs. The changes in the soil, and the prevalence of destructive insects, at length entirely ar- rested this culture. Winter wheat has not been restored to our hus- bandry, although spring wheat is now successfully cultivated. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 137 take them to the meadows. Surveyed the river from the landing to the lake, being assisted by James Thompson. 9th Dec, The snow 3 inches deep. 10th Dee., do 4 inches deep. 11th, to 18th, warm pleasant weather, sent our cattle to the meadows the 17th, inst. 19th Dec, very cold. 22d Dec, Thomas Bready went to the meadows and to'^k with him 40 days store of prov', and 1 pot, 3 quarts, 3 bottles, 1 trap and chain, 1 bag, 1 tub. 30th Dec, Our raft of hay was drove on shore last night on the south side of my Bro" point — 2 cocks from Far meadow, went with some hands and got the hay all safe on shore, and one Bateau haul'd up, wrought till 9 in the evening, then came to McAuley's. 31st Dec, went with more hands and hauled up the other Bateau, sent Ireland and David to the Far meadow for a yoke of oxen for McAuley, they are also to assist Thomas Bready to skin my large white ox with one drooping horn, which was drowned at the far meadow creek a few days ago. 'N. B. We killed my brindle stag with white face and sharp horns the 10th ]!^ovember, he weighed about 900 and produced 6 stone of tallow. WillsborT), January, 1st 1767. This day we had a shooting match at John Chism's. I won 2 matches, AIx. James Thompson won 1, and John McEh-ea, won 1 match, 1st, 2d, 3d, very cold weather, this evening Ireland \nd David, came home from the south meadow, were b^th frost bit. 18 138 PIONEER HISTORY OF 4th to 12th, warm good weather, built part of our clay chimney in the new kitchen. 13th, and 14th, soft weather, with a good deal of rain, the river open to foot of the rapids. Killed the calf of the swelled headed cow. Being about 6 weeks old, it weighed SSibs of good veal, which at 6d ^ lb with the tallow of fall and skin came to <£3. 15th, to 20th, very good working weather and good sleighing, the snow about 6 inches deep, can bring a load of hay every day from Eliz"' meadow, with 4 oxen In the team, this day broke our sleigh in attempting to haul logs with it and set about making a flat log sleigh of the Canadian form. 21st, clear weather, very cold. 22d, do. but not so cold, this day the lake froze half across, on the east side it appears open. 23d, cold weather. 24th, clear and very pleasant. 25th, a strong north wind opened the lake, broke the ice in bitts. 26th, clear warm weather, began to haul logs for sawing. 27th 28th, 29th. do. 30th, a snowy day, this night the snow 12 inches deep. 31st, close warm weather, this day some of our set- tlers went to see James Logan, whether alive or detid, they crossed the lake in a small birch canoe.' 1 Logan was associated with another German named Pettier, and the first settler of Shelburn, Vt., lying opposite Willsboro. Two points jutting into the lake from the eastern shore perpetuate their respective names. A small colony, engaged in the lumber trade with Canada, had gathered about them previous to the revolution. Mr. Thompson THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 139 1st Februaiy, 1767, warm weather. 2d, clear pleasant weather, this clay I went to the near meadow in order to tind its true bearing and dis- tance from the barn, made various courses from the meadow to the barn, keeping on the top of the high bank next the river from the time we got to it 'till op- posite the new garden, then came into the road leading from hence to the lake at a beech tree marked M, and then took the bearing and distance from thence to the barn along the road north 35 W. 10 chains, N. 49 west 5 cli. then oS". 34 W. 7 chains to the S. W. corner of the barn, protracted my work and reduced all the dif- ferent courses made from the meadow to the above mentioned beech tree marked (M) to the following 2 courses, viz. : beginning at the said tree and running thence. 3d, clear good weather. ^1 4th, at 3 this afternoon began cold weather, a strong K. wind, put up our coal kiln. 5th, colder than yesterday, and sharp small snow, lake all frozen.^ says, "there is a tradition that Logan and Pettier, were murdered by soldiers (sent from Montreal to protect them against the Indians) to secure the proceeds of a raft, which had been sold by the Germans in Canada." 1 Lake Champlain is the largest body of water within our national tei'ritory, which is periodically closed by ice, and so firmly as to form a highway for travel and business. The ice not unfrequently attains a thickness from two to three feet and usually continues passable from about 1st February to the 1st of April. The formation of the ice pre- sents singular and beautiful phenomena. One would conjecture that it augments by the accumulation of horizontal laminse or layers. But the process is far different. The ice is constituted by an infinitude of hex- agonal crystals or tubes, wLich form a perpendicular and parallel 140 PIONEER HISTORY OF 6th, very cold nay colder than yesterday, but clear. 7th, snowey day, not so cold as the preceding; this evening we compute the snow to be 15 inches deep on a level. 8th, 9th, close warm weather, covered our coal kill ; this day we had a very thick small soft snow which continued all day. 10th, snow continued until 4 in the afternoon, then stop'd, we now compute the snow to be 20 inches deep on a level. arrangement, similar to the formation of a honeycomb. These crystals unite with perfect exactness forming the mass, and are perfectly indis- tinguishable, whilst the cold produces a compact cohesion of the parti- cles, but when the ice is dissolving in the spring, they become separated and are clearly perceptible. Manipulation can then disintegrate them as readily as if they had been formed by the hand of art, and arranged in their formation. These crystals extend from the surface of the wa- ter to the atmosphere and elongate, maintaining their exact propor- tions, as the ice thickens. It is difficult for philosophy to explain this process of nature. My own impression is that the vapor which arises from the water is conveyed by capillary attraction or other subtle agencies through minute pores in the ice to the cold air, and their congealing regularly extends these crystals in their vertical growth. When the ice has attained adequate thickness its transit is perfectly safe except in crossing the cracks or fissures which form in it. These fissures, which entirely rend asunder the ice, usually extend from one headland to another, and often intersect. Their formation is attended by a noise and concussion like the reverberation of thunder or the pro- longed discharge of the heaviest artillery. The pent up air beneath the ice thus finds ventilation instead of escaping through treacherous air holes. Until the era of rail roads it was a common occurrence for loaded teams to traverse the lake between its extremities, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles. This icy plain often exhibits scenes of animated excitement, when long trains of ladened vehicles glide rapidly over it, while the pleasure-sleigh bounds along its smooth and crystal field, breaking the stillness by the music of the merry bells and joyous merriment. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 141 11th, a pleasant day, laid the hearth in onr room, this day G. Belton's man came on the ice from home to Chism's Point, good walking. 12th, delightful weather, the sun warm. 13th, 14th, do do 15th, warm, dull weather. 16th, got our ha}' and the Bateaux brought by oxen across Eliz* Bay to Eliz* Point and hailed up on the bank, went with P. McAuley, to Willson and Good) rich's house in Burton to take an acct. of their effects in tha liandsof their manager Wni. Hulme, which we did, they having broke up their settlement and dis- charged their said Steward. We took 2 sleighs loaded with the most valuable goods to the Messrs. McAuley 's house, the sleighs being drawn by Hulme's men^ 16th, This day began a survey of the edge of the lake from the eastern extremity of the sandybeach on Pine point to the Cloven Rock, beginning at said extreme point,^ thence Courses, C. L. No. 1, S. 73° W., 2, 98, 2, S. 69° W., 3, 22, 3, S. 60° 30' W., 4, 00, 1 Willson and Goodricb, occupied in 17G6, a tract north of tho Boquet, of 2000 acres patented to James Ross. They established an agency at Flat Rock Bay, which they called Burton, but abandoned it the next February. — 0. F. Sheldon. 2 1 have thought it expedient to preserve a record of these surveys upon the ice, on account of the originality of the idea of making such surveys, and from the interest which attaches to it from the data the courses afford for determining any changes in the conformation of the shore which may have occurred during the last century, or which may hereafter be produced. 142 PIONEER HISTORY OF Courses C. L. 1^0. 4, S. 52° 30' W., 4, 00, hereChism's mark- ed pitch pine bears N". 11° 40' W, distance from the edge of the water, Ic. 40l. 5, S. 45° W., 5, 18. 6, S. 24° W., 2, 80. 7, S. 4° 40' E., 1, 23, to the mouth of White creek which is in Chism's lot. 8, S. 6° 40' E., 5, 76. 9, S. 7° 50' W., 6, 00. 10, S. 2° 0' E., 16, 00, here the soulh end of N. Smith's house bears N. 49 W., his mark- ed tree ou the shore, on his S" line bears S. 63*^ W. 11, S. 6° E., 4, 00, here we took an offset of 50 links east in order to get ou the ice which afforded best marching. 12, S. 2° E., 18, 00. 13, S. 17° E., 11, 8, to a dry elm tree standing ou the shore from which the south end of McAuley's house bears i^. 48 "W., here ended our survey for this day and, 17th, began where we ended yesterday, and proceeded thence along the lake. 14, S. 18° 30' E., 7, 00, here took an offset of 70 links east to get on the ice. 15, S. 11° E., 11, 54. 16, S. 48° E., 12, 10. 17, S. 21° 15' E., 6, 00. 18, S. 5° E., 1, 15. 19, S. 39° E., 11, 65. 20, S. 4° 30' E., 10, 75. 21, S. 6° W. , 11, 00. THE CHAMPLAIN YALLEY. 143 Courses. C. L. No. 22, S. 4° 40' E., 10, 45. 23, S. 4° W., 17,80. 24, S. 2° 30' E., 13, 30. 25, S. 15° W., 27, 00. 26, S. 48° W., 3, 47. 27, South, 2, 69. 28, S. 33° E., 1, 90, to Elisabetli sandy point. 29, S. 40° W., 1, 40. 30, S. 62° W., 10, 00. 31, S. 40° "W., 9, 80. 32, S. 50° W., 3, 73, to Ballynanghy creek, 83, S. 35° 30' E„ 14, 70, across the bay at the south side of Eliz'' point to the east end of Zimmy's point, 6 chs. took an offset west to the shore 3 chs. thence to the point circular. 34, S. 17° 30' E., 3, 50. 85, S. 46° W., 8, 26. 36, S. 18° W., 3, 90. 37, S. 44° 30' E., 14, 6, at 3 chs. offset to the shore Ic. 15l. 88, S. 40° W., 5, 80, at 5 chs offset to the shore Ic. Ol. 39, S. 20° 30' W., 11, 25, at 7 chs. offset to the shore Ic. 20l. at 14 chs. came to point at end of this course. 40, S. 30° W., 22, 27, at 3 chs. offset to the Cows leap, 1 ch. being a corner at 17 chains, offset 1 ch. 41, South, 6, 25. 144 PIONEER HISTORY OP Courses. C. L. No. 42, S. 22° 30' W., 6, 45. 43, S. 6° E., 6, 53. 44, S, 5° W., 12, 87. 45, S, 5° W., 8, 97. 46, S. 21° E., 10, 90. 47, S. 35° E., 12, 63. 48, S. 65° W., 3. 49, S. 11° E., 4. 50, S. 6° W., 4. 51, S. 25° 30' W., 11, 51. 52, S. 17° 30' W., 33. 53, S. 27° W., 9, 48. 54, S. 2° 30' W., 16. 55, S. 29° W., 14, at 11 chs. to 14 chs. 50 Iks. to the shore. 56, S. 24° E., 9, 24, at 2 chs. to 6i, 50 Iks. to do here the creek at G. Beltoii's. 57,8.49° E., 13,75, at 4 chs. the east cor- ner of Belton's house bears S. 24 W. 58, S. 38° 30' E., 10. 59, S. 51° E., 7, 37, to the line tree be- tween mine and Dr. Judd's lots, being marked H. W. and standing on the shore. 60, N. 87° E., 78,64, to the Cloven Eock to the N. E. side thereof, at 18 chs. on this course, took an offset to the shore of 7 chs. South to the rock marked A, and the bay cir- cular almost to the Cloven Rock. 18th Feb., this morning observed the bearing of Lo- gan's pointfrom G. Belton's and found it to be N. 38° E. — then R. McAuleys, W. McAulejs, and G. Belton THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 145 went with me on a straight line, over the ice to Logan's ; at the west end of Logan's point took an observation of the bearing of McAuley's house which found to be S. 75° W. on which course chained across and found the distance to be 355| chains, from McAuley's door to the end of Pine Sandy point, or rather the east end of the easternmost log lying on S** point, and found it to be N. 11° E. Distance, on that line (which we chain- ed) 71 chains. 18th, this day our people were girdling trees on Camp Island. 19th, this day I came home ; the weather has been rather sharp these 3 days, this however was the warm- est, though a strong wind, but it was southerly. The 17th, inst. I bought a large sow from Mr. Hulme for 26s. She took my large boar the 30th Jan. 20th, a warm south wind produces a great thaw (to- gether with a little rain) the snow was reduced to about a foot or less. 21st, last night it began to freeze, and this day it froze very hard, with a cold north wind ; yesterday we broke the tongue of our log sleigh, and this day pro- cured another one which is this evening almost made. Find our coal kiln not | burnt, owing we suppose to the want of sod in covering it, the sods we put on being only lumps of sandy loam frozen, which when thawed run down between the billets of wood and choked the kiln. 22d, moderate weather. 23d, Ditto, from this day to 1st March, were employ- ed in cutting fencing stuff, and white oak, black birch, 19 146 PIONEER HISTORY OF elm, beech, maple, and ash, for sawing, being the best season for cutting timber for last. 24th, set out for Great Sandy Point in order to sur- vey from thence to the north end of John Friswell's patent ; arrived at the the south end of high sandy cliffs at dark where we encamped and had a cold uncomfort- able night's lodging on the snow, fire wood being scarce there.' 25th, a warm pleasant day, proceeded to the south branch of Au Sable river, at the south side whereof be- gan to survey northerly along Lake Champlain. Courses. C. L. No. 1, K 10° 30' E., 12, the mouth of the river 6 chs. broad course from the lake N. 77° W. for about I mile, 2, K 41° E., 42, 3, K 46° 30' E., 19, to the east end of a long sandy point on the S. side of the W. branch of R. Au Sable, the whole of this dis. being sand, from the end of this course or branch bears N. 80 west, about 30 chs. then it's about N. W. 4, N. 23° W., 4, to the north shore of the north branch, whose entrance is only about ^ chain wide being choked by a sand bank projecting from the S" shore, from the end of this course and the long sandy point being the north side of that branch mouth bears N. 38° E. distance 9 chains. ' This point is Au Sable point, at the mouth of Au Sable river, which, with the cliff, he has noticed in a previous description, THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 147 WlLLSBOROUGH, FeB., 1767. C. L. No. 5, N". 9° 30' W., 6. 6, K 6° E., 9. 7, N". 35° E., 7, to tlie east of Great Sandy Point. 8, K 88° W., 20. 9, K. 65° 30' W., 20. 10, K 61° W., 13, to the N. side of the entrance of Duck Creek, at 5ch. in the S. side thereof. 11, N. 9° W., 7. 12, K 42° W., 10. 13, N. 17° 30' W., 10. 14, N. 34° W., 9. 15, K 16° W., 13, 10, at 4c IOl in the north side of Beaver River which is Ic broad, the large black oak tree, marked A on the east side (by Palmer) bears W. from the end of this course dis't 2 chains, it stands on the ridge or bank of the lake. 16, K 16° W., 3, 90. 17, N. 20° E., 6. 18, N. 7° E., 25. 19, K 3° 30' E., 8. 20, N. 3° W., 12. 21, N. 4° E., 6. 22, K 20° E., 26. 23, N. 7° E., 19. 24, K 14° E., 14. 25, N. 23° W., 6, 40. At 2 chains came to Peter Stewart's S. E. corner, where stands a 148 PIONEER HISTORY OF large white cedar tree marked f from which the south end of Valcour bears N. 81° 30' E., and the north end of same bears IN". 20° E. the south end of a small island, bears S. 82° E., the south end of G. Isle, bears S. 85° E. Course. Distance. Kg. 26, K 12° 30' E., 8, 90. 27, N. 47° W., 7, a round bay here, 2| chains shore, at4|ch, l|ch; offset, to y° shore. 28, K 18° 30' E., 4. 29, K 47° 30' E., 17, to a point. 30, K 27° 30' E., 2, to do. along the shore. 31, K 2° "W., 24, to do., near theK end of this course, a bite Ich offset. 32, K 20° W., 6. 33, N. 1° E., 4. 34, K 5° W., 4. 35, K 34° W., 10, from 4 to 10, a cove IJch deep. • 36, K 46° 40' W., 2. 37, N. 68° W., 11, here is a bay fch. offset. 38, K 17° W., 12. 39, S. 83° 30' W., 2. 40, N. 20° W., 13, at 6ch. a smart stream, at 7ch. a point. 41, N. 2° W., 13. 42, K 6° E., 8. 43, N. 49° E., 101 to a stoney point at the north side of the River Salmon, opposite to 7ch stands the house, (the possession here formerly mentioned), at 8 the river, at 10 the channel or entrance thereof N B. : from this THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 149 house the S. "W. end Valconr bears S. 33° east, the north end of do. K 73° E. 25th Feb., a close, dark, warm day; in the fore- noon windy, in the afternoon some rain; it thawed fast ; proceeded on the survey northerly. Course. Distance. No. 44, K 46° 30' E., 9. 45, N. 12° E., 5. 46, N. 6° 30' W., 7. 47, N. 3° E., o 48, K 48° 30' K, 2. 49, K 2° E., 1, 50, I^. 60° W., 5, deep. 51, K 17° E., 5. 52, N. 40° 30' E., 4. 53, K 62° 30' 'E., T, ^ch. deep. 54, K 78° E., 15. 55, K 46° E., 10. 56, N. 24° E., 6. 57, K 11° E., 11. 58, K 52° E., 11. 59, N. 34° K, 8. 60, IST. 25° E., 10. 61, N. 3° E., 2. 62, N. 12° W., 3. 63, N. 34° W., 3. 64, K 46° 30' 'W., 5. 65, N. 68° W., 1. 66, N. 40° W., 1. 67, N. 15° W., 1. 50. here is a bay, l|ch. in this course is a bay 150 PIONEER HISTORY OF Course. Distance. No. 68, N. 4° E., 5, by the fluctuation of the needle, I judge there is iron ore near. 69, K 16° E., 5. 70, K 2° E.. 3. 71, K. 21° W., 2. 72, N. 19° W., 5. 73, N". 3° W., 2. 74, N. 28° E., 2, 90, 75, K 6° E., 11, 35, the next course to this is N. 83° "W"., but the ice being covered with water we proceeded no further; supposed the dis* on this course to be about 8ch. to S. end of the bay. The 1st considerable point from the end of course, K 75° bears K 8° W. ; the 2d point bears north, the 3d point K. 2° E. being the point this side of FredenboUrgh, I think the S. east end of Cumberland Head bears K 52° 30' E., the K W. end Island St. Michael bears N. 58° E., south end of Island St. Michael N. 77° E., south end of Grand Isle S. 55° E. Returned this night to Hulme's, where I stayed all night. 27th Feb., I came home this morning, this day my ^eiO heifer calved, moderate warm weather, thaws fast. 28th, the cattle were all brought home, having fin- ished the hay in the far meadows. Memorandum, that in December last, Mr. James Thompson deputy surveyor, and I performed a survey of part of the River Boquet, beginning at the head of Milltown Falls, 32 links distant from the edge of the river. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 151 Course. Distance. No, 1, N. 23° W., 4, ch. from here the edge of o^i the river 94 links distant. 2, K. 35° 50' W., 5, 93, to the rock behind the forge, from the little house, the edge of the R. up the falls, bears S. 26° 20' E. 3, K 12° 30' E., 3. 4, to the west side of 4. 2. 7. 6. 5, 50, at |ch. offset, H'h. to the bank, and continued to 3ch., then close to the bank to the end of Camp Island. 10, S. 42° 30' W., 4, to the south bank of the river. 11, S. 83° E., 2, 60. 12, S. 40° 20' E., 5, 70. 13, N. 82° E., 2, 25, here the button wood tree bore iN". 8° 10' E., then began in the mid- dle of the river, 90 links W. of s** button wood tree on the north shore, and 80 links from the south shore. 14, :N'. 85° 30' E., 12, at 5ch. breadth of the river, 3ch. being at our best spring, at 8ch. K. Ich. 85 links. 4, ,K 29° 30' W., Camp Island. 5, N. 21° E., 6, K. 70° 40' E., 7, IsT. 82° E., 8, S. 51° 30' E., 9, S. 47° 30' E., 15, S, 4° 30' E., 1- 16, S. 70° E., 5- 17, S. 46° 30' E., 5- 18, S. 26° 30' E., 12, the first 7chs. near the 152 PIONEER HISTORY OF bank, the last 5cli. 50 links from the hank, at 11° 50' a little sandy point at 5ch., the river 3ch. 40 links. 19, S. 44° E., 9, here the south hank 1 ch. dist. at 3 chs. the hank 10 links off, at 5 chs. the bank 40 links off. 20, S. 26° 70' E., 10, at 4chs. the hank 5l off, at 6 chs. the S" end of half way island 90 links off and the south bank 20 links, here stood across the Island, its breadth 2 chs. | ch. from this line to the bank of the Island. 21, S. 39° E., 9, atTchs. 60 Iks. stood across the river K 60 E. the N. E. end of the Island at Ich. the north bank of the river at 4 chs. 20 links. 22, S. 24° E., 11, at 2 chs. the bank dis- tant 10 links, at 5 chs. the same dist. at 7 chs. the hank 20 links, here took the breadth of the R. K 6Q E. 4c. 20l. 23, 8. 32° E., 13, 88, to John Chism', N. "W. corner tree. do S. 32° E., 17, 60, here came to the bank, and here took the breadth of the river K 41, E. 5c. 75l. 24, S. 75° 30' E., 18, at 3chs. 30 links from the bank : at 13 chs. 10 links from the bank ; at 17 chs. 20 links from the bank ; at 18 chs. took the breadth of the river N. 33 E., 4 chs. 6 links. 25, S. 57° 25' E., 11, here kept 20 links from the bank at 8J chs., chained along the THE CnAMPLAlN VALLEY. lOo shore, and here we took the breadth of the river N. 11° E., 5 chs. 75 Iks. 26, S. 79° 20' E., 4, at 3 chs. a pitch pine tree at the E. end of Chism's house, bears S. 9 W. 90 links from the waters edge. 27, ¥. 63° 30' E., 1, 20, to the bottom of the little bay near Chism's, 28, 1^. 47° 30' W., 1. 29,K14° E., 1. 30, K 81° 30' E., 2,40, L. 31, S. 45° F., 9. 32, S. 36° E., 9, to the end of Pine point or Chism's point. March, 1st, soft thawing weather. 2d, do. killed 2 sows, this afternoon Wm. Bogert of Albany left 7 hhds. of rum with me not being able to proceed down the lake, the ice being bad. 3d, a snow stornijthaw continues; wrote by Mr. Mc- Kay, to Thos. Shipboy, Isaac Mann, Mr. Todd, wheel- wright, &c. 4th, frosty morning, sent to the meadows for hay, Mr. Dean, arrived here and agreed to become a settler on the lot of land I formerly granted to "Wm. Luckey, to Avhicli Luckey has consented and I have agreed. 5th, drew our coal kill, the weather warm and clear. 6th, Ditto. 7th, executed leases for Mr. Dean, and let him and Luckey have sundrys for their settlement on their farm, the snow almost oft' the ground, especially where it has been cleared, the sun having much power, our wheat appears well, only the tops of the blades are Avithcred. 8th, went on the river ice to the lake, slopy walking 20 154 PIONEER HISTORY OF the sun thawing fast, went to McAuley's and stayed all night. 9th, all hands went to make a yard for our hay, on my own lot on Eliz" point, where we determined to bring all the hay remaining atEliz* meadow, and there to feed our dry cattle, here I have agi'eed with Thos. Burke to clear twenty acres of land for, 10th, engaged George Reynold for — month at £16 '^ ann. and John Davi for — months at <£10 "^ ann. This was a pleasant warm day, sent over cattle to Eliz* point; yesterday during our absence George Hick's cow having gone into the ox stable was killed by one of the oxen. 11th, a bitter cold day, freezes hard. March, 11th, this day I made a survey of the south shore of Encamping island, beginning at the north east corner thereof. Ko. 1, S. 46° W., 1, 80, to a small gut be- tween Corp island and a small island. 2, K 5° W., 7, 50, at 4, 50 a gully on Camp island. 3, N. 31° W., 2, 40, to another gully, at 40l. the E. end of a small island. 4, N. 71° W., 1, 40. 5, S. 71° W., 7, to S. W. end of the Island, at 6 chs. the mouth of the creek 2c. 20l. S" to the Tail run. Having a curiosity to know the quantity of land cul- tivated and now in fence on the Island, began at the S. W. post of the gate, there. i^o. 1, K 9^ W., 2. 2, N. 1^ E., 1, 45. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 155 3, K 53° 30' E., 1, 23. Ko. 4, S. 71° E., 1. 5, N. 70° E., 1, 70, the E. end of small Island bears K 38° E. W. end N. 42 W. 6, K 84° E., 3, 70. 7, S. 58° 30' E., 4, here the R. Ic. 50l. broad. 8, S. 33° E., 1, 90. 9, S. 45° 30' E., 1, 60, here the R. 2c. 50l. wide. 10, S. 70° 30' K, 2. 11, S. 47 W., 1, 90, here the creek Ic. 50l. broad. 12, K 76 W., 1, 70. 13, K 38 W., 1, 80, to a gully, here the creek 2c. 50l. broad. 14, K 50 W., 1, 70, here the creek 4 chains, across the small Island. 15, S. 72 W., 4, here do 3 chs. 16, S. 83 W., 2, 45, to the place of be- ginning.^ March, 12, a very cold day, as cold as at ISTew year's day. Messrs. McCracken, Rice, and Price, this day arrived from Montreal, on their journey for New York. 13th, almost as cold as j'esterday and small snow, conveyed the above gen" to Eliz" point, where I have two men clearing land. ' Instead of regarding these minute surveys by Gilliland as frivolous occupations, I take pleasure in recording them, as furnishing evidence of active and industrious habits, and the careful research and observa- tion of his mind. He thus relieved the tedium of an unoccupied sea- son, improved his practical skill as a surveyor, and made himself fa- miliar with his possessions. 156 PIONEER HISTORY OF 14th, very cold clear weather. This day Mr. John McAuley acted as Vendue master in the sale of the carcass, hide and tallow of George Ilicks' cow which was accidently killed by an ox in the ox stall a few days ago, the sale was as follows, viz.: John Chism, 1 fore quarter of beef, X 5 I^ehemah Smith, 1 hind quarter at 12 3 and 1 fore quarter at 5 3 William Gilliland Esq. 1 hind quarter sold at 10 3 and 1 cow and 1 calf skin at 7 3 1 head and tallow at 2 3 £2 2 3 Vendue Master charges viz.: adver- tize the day of sale the three most publick places in Willsborough, & 5 Commission on sale at 5 '^ cent, 2 £71 Net proceds to be paid to William Gilliland at Willsborough, for account of George Hicks, £1 15 2 This was a very cold clear day. March, 15th, Guy (?) weather, begins to thaw. 16th, do do this day John Smith joined Burke, in clearing the 20 acres of land at Eliz'' point, also five acres onthe hermitage, being the name given by my mother to her lot ; this afternoon we had some thunder, and at night much rain.^ 17th, a kind of sleet or snowey light rain, a dark warm thawing day. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 157 17th, this day the following cattle distrained for rent were sold at puhlic auction hj me John McAuley, Vendue master, hy order of William Gilliland ; the day of sale beingpuhlic, advertised previous to it, viz. : One red cow and her bull calf, the prop- erty of JNIartin Taylor. ^676 One brindle ox, blind of one eye, the prop- erty of Martin Taylor. 3 15 Charges viz. <£10 2 6 To Yon Chism, G. Belton sworn app. £ 2 To three advertizements, 3 Commission on sale, 5 6 <£ 10 6 N"eat proceeds. <£ 9 12 6 1 black and white ox, the property of Eliakim E. Ayers, 4, 15. Charges viz. To Chism and Belton town apprisers, £ 2 To 3 advertizements, 3 Commission on salt. 3 101 £ 3 lOi N"eat proceeds.^ <£ 4 6 11 17th March, laid out a piece of land on my mother's lot to be cleared by Jno. Smith and Thos. Burke, be- ginning at K. Smith's marked tree, on the bank of the lake, and thence west along his S. line 5 chains, 1 This record is entered in the Town Book in the writing of the vendue master. 158 PIONEER HISTORY OF t"hen soutli 10 chains, then east 6 chains 35 links to the bank containing Run along 'N. Smith's south line, from the bank of the lake to the road, distance 20 chains. 18th March. Run the line between Robt. McAuley and John McAuley, and marked the trees back for about I of a mile to a very large white oak, the land extra good and well timbered. This day James Logan came across the lake on the ice to acquaint me of his having on .the 16th, arrived from Canada with a horse and mare, to know which I chose, and for one of my people to bring mine over. I chose the mare, and Robt. McAuley went over this afternoon after her, and on 19th, this forenoon he came with the mare, and Mr. Logan on his horse.' Yesterday and to-day we had pleasant weather, fine sleighing across the lake ; this afternoon we went down the river and round Chism's point to R. McAuley 's on the ice. This day the Mr. McAuleys begun to draw logs for themselves to the saw mill, and this day Smith and Burke began to clear on my mother's lot. 20th, a warm pleasant day. 21st, a close thick snow this morning, it aj^peared to have fell 2 inches last night. About sun setting, James Logan set out from Eliz* sandy point, with his horse and a sleigh load of hay, to go home over the ice; he got safe to within about | a mile of his house, when his horse fell into a wide crack and was drowned; Logan returned to McAuleys; the latter 1 Tradition states that this was the first horse introduced into Gilli- land's Colony. THE CHAMPLAIN VALLEY. 159 part of this day was constant sleet and rain, the wind southerly, the forenoon being a wet snow. 22d, the wind about S. W., continued rain last night to 10 o'clock this day; very sloppy and bad walking; Logan durst not venture to cross the lake, the snow and water concealing the most dangerous places. 23d, began to freeze a little at 10 last night, and continued to this morning, when a slender crust dried the snow a little. Logan ventured across the lake, and in all appearance got home safe; this is a soft, thawing day ; the McAuleys haul home 9 logs how- ever, from the white pinery. 23d, this day agreed with John Smith and Thos. Burke to clear the remainder of the front of my moth- er's lot, to R. McAuley's line, 5 chains deep from the bank of the lake. 24th, this evening my large young red ox with a white face, died at Belton's; on opening him it ap- peared he had been hurt at the S° meadow by two of the cattle that attacked him (one bein^Martin Taylor's ox) and this occasioned his death; the weather warm. 25th, this afternoon ended with a thick heavy fall of snow. 26th, last night my black sow pig'd out of doors, and though it froze pretty keen, her seven young ones were found all well this morning, this was a very pleas- ant clear day and not cold, the maple trees run fast the middle of tlie day. 27th, a tine moderate day, Logan crossed the lake this mornin^'\ 3 0~ . ' A >' aV '^r. o >0^ ^ a'' ^' ^ .^^^' % ^ >- y> ; ..--.% ' ^,^X .0 t> m i J*^ s- V ."^^ '>. % ^^ - ^0^ x^-" "*^^ ^^ '^r ■ s>' '■'~":.o^ '■': .^' %%^ V .\- ,. ^ r^^ .■^'' ' '^-'■^ ,*' . ,<*o. ,'^- ^^^ >^ ,H "^^ v^' x^" '^- ' -f / -^^ ■1^,, C^