♦* *:- IHHHH |HIBHHWKHflH| 1 (»lV li \A J J * r 1 ifi 1 if "*'' t li i iiy r. w/hqckw^Ul, jr. }W$i B^H Guide to the Cjreylock Otate reservation / Francis Williams Rockwell, Jr. COPYRIGHTED by FRANCIS WILLIAMS ROCKWELL, JR. 1916 Edition of 1917 , rz .135': ©Cl. A 4 54 23 8 DEC 18 1916 The four sturdiest hills of Massachu- setts, the last remnants of the virgin forest that once guarded Berkshire solitudes, the mighty examples of the work of the relent- less glaciers that reduced Mt. Greylock from a peak towering 7,000 feet above the sea, to its present altitude, 3,505 feet — all these are found within the 8,000 acres of the Greylock State Reservation. Situated in the middle latitudes of New England, easily accessible from the cities of the northern seaboard, the summits of the Greylock group have a climate resembling that of portions of Canada. Rich is this field for the naturalist; manifold are its beauties. To make plain the ways of the reserva- tion to the stranger is the purpose of this guide. In order to facilitate the use of this booklet, it should be borne in mind that the carriage roads leading to the summit of Mt. Greylock have been treated first; then the trails to the summit have been described; and finally the less frequented, but perhaps more enchanting paths about the reservation have been considered. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Introductory: Location and General Character 5 Accommodations at Summit 7 Camping Permits, etc 8 Use of Maps 10 Carriage Roads to Summit 11 to 15 Trails to Summit 16 to 24 Short Trails on Reservation: Southern 25 Northern 30 Table of Distances 35 Things to See and Where to Find Them 36 Table of Heights and Map Distances 37 INTRODUCTORY LOCATION AND GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE RESERVATION The Greylock State Reservation is situated in the northern portion of Berkshire, the western county of Massachusetts. It lies within the limits of Williams- town, North Adams, Adams, Cheshire and New Ash- ford. Pittsfield, on the Boston & Albany R. R. and New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R., is sixteen miles to the southward. Cheshire, Adams and North Adams may be reached from the south by rail from Pittsfield, or by the more frequent service of the Berkshire Street Railway. From the east and west, North Adams and Williamstown mlay be reached by trains on the Fitchburg Division, Boston & Maine Railroad. The reservation extends over the summits of several hills, and reaches down toward the upland farms which skirt its boundaries. For the most part it is wooded, with trees of many varieties, which in autumn as well as in spring show magnificent color combinations. Winter, too, though severe, has its especial beauties of drooping evergreens clad with snow, and frost bedecked branches with their pearly translucent sheen. Springs, cool, and of purest waters abound ; so that the tramper is never thirsty. And there are countless other delights which will be dis- covered, but which should not be foretold. GENERAL NATURE OF THE ROADS AND TRAILS The roads upon the reservation are for the most part rough carriage roads. This has been necessitated by the fact that the funds available for construction and maintenance have been limited in amount. The result has been that the construction is of a type designed to meet the bare necessities of a rough way connecting the various outlying corners with the summit where the superintendent resides. Many motorists, however, make the trip to the summit of Greylock each year by way of the southern approach to the mountain (Rockwell Road), up the long sloping ridge from the Lanesboro side. This road is in better condition for motor travel than any of the others. The road from North Adams to the summit is marked as unsafe for automobiles. But both the North Adams road and that to Adams have been negotiated by machines ; although one travels at his own peril. It must be remembered by all motorists who visit the reservation that the roadways are narrow, with but few turnouts ; and that in some places they are so steeply embanked that a few inches variation from the roadway might mean disaster. But if one drives with care, and gives proper warning with the horn, the trip may be accomplished in comparative safety, and with great enjoyment. At certain times of the year the roads to the summit are closed by order of the county commission- ers to prevent the damage that tire chains might cause in the soft soil of the woods, moistened by the heavy rains of spring and fall. The trails, however, are open, summer and winter. The more frequently used paths are well beaten under foot, and may be followed by one not accustomed to the woods ; the trails used more seldom are perhaps the more beautiful. These are for the most part blazed upon the trees. Both trails and roads are quite faithfully shown upon the appended "Map of Trails." ACCOMMODATIONS AT THE SUMMIT Food, drink and accommodations for the night may be secured at the house on Greylock Summit. The summit house, small and inadequate as it is, will furnish sleeping quarters for about ten persons. It is better to make arangements in advance for those wishing to stay for the night, or longer. This may be done by telephoning to the Greylock Summit House, Adams, Mass. The rates are reasonable. For any persons wishing to spend a considerable time at the summit, special terms may be secured by writing the Superintendent, Greylock State Reservation, North Adams, Mass. The present building some day will be replaced by a better. A building fund, donated in small amounts by citizens of Dalton and Pittsfield, and collected by Commissioner Francis W. Rockwell, has been placed in the hands of the County Treasurer of Berkshire, and is accumulating at interest. Persons who wish to contribute to this fund for a new summit house may send their checks to Henry A. Brewster, Esq., County Treasurer, Pittsfield, Mass. Owing to the fact that the roads at the elevation of the reservation remain unsettled until late in May, during the early part of the season motors are barred ; but even then it is possible to secure accommodations at the summit. The Summit House remains open until October is well advanced. The season for driving or riding extends from June to November. During the first week of October the autumnal coloring is likely to be at its height. For those who wish to climb the mountain in winter on snowshoes or with ski, shelter may be obtained at the Bunk House, south- westerly of the Summit house. Its door is left unlocked; a sm/all wood-stove is there and with a hatchet to cut wood, one is glad of the shelter. CAMPING PERMITS Persons who wish to camp upon the reservation should obtain permits from the Superintendent. For these no charge is made. During the season the present Superintendent may be addressed as follows: (Jared S. Adams), Superintendent Greylock State Reserva- tion, North Adams, Mass. (In the winter he should be addressed at Pittsfield, Mass.) Persons who wish to spend the night on the summit will have places assigned by the Superin- tendent where they may bivouac. Fires will be allowed under such circumstances in the locations approved. MANAGEMENT OF THE RESERVATION The Greylock State Reservation Commission was established by legislative act in 1898. The act pro- vided that the reservation should be purchased by the Commonwealth and maintained by the County of Berkshire. Three unpaid commissioners appointed by the governor of the state have the management of the reservation in their hands. They employ at the expense of the county a superintendent who has the oversight of the work done upon the reservation, and the management of the house at the summit. 1916 Members of the Greylock State Reservation Commission Francis W. Rockwell, of Pittsfield. Wm. H. Sperry, of North Adams. Arthur B. Daniels, of Adams. PHOTOGRAPHS OF RESERVATION SCENES Mr. Charles T. Barker began many years ago to collect photographs of the mountain and reservation. Beginning as an enthusiastic amateur, he has met with such success in his work that he now sells small prints. These views may be obtained at the Summit or from Mr. Barker direct. The prices of the five-by- seven prints are very reasonable, 25 cents. Mr. Barker's Pittsfield address is as follows : Charles T. Barker, 20 Oxford St., Pittsfield, Mass. USE OF APPENDED MAPS The two maps sold with this booklet are the best that can be obtained at this time. The U. S. Geolo- gical Survey map is on the scale of approximately one inch to the mile. North is at the top of the map. Elevations are shown for every twenty feet. The map was made before the road to Mt. Greylock up the ridge from the south had been laid out, so that the southern approach to the mlountain by way of Rounds Rock is not shown ; nor is the road from Adams. The other map (Road and Trail Map) in black and white, does not show the contours of the hills. The scale of the map is about 3,000 feet to the inch. It was made by Mr. William N. Tuller for the Grey- lock Commission, and shows the roads and trails of the reservation in relation to the summits of the hills. As the corners of the reservation boundaries are marked by granite posts showing the direction of the reservation lines, this road and trail map is of much value for work in the woods. The brooks on the trail map, however, are indicated only in a general way; for greater accuracy in this respect the government map should be used. For convenience in locating the starting points of trails upon the government miap the names and loca- tions of the Scholz, Walden, Bacon and Collins and Cummings houses have been stamped upon the governmient map. Throughout this booklet, the terms north, south and other such words have been used in a general sense. No attempt at absolute accuracy in giving compass directions has been made. 10 CARRIAGE ROADS LEADING TO THE SUMMIT From Lanesboro : From Lanesboro there are two ways of reaching the Greylock State Reservation. The first is by the road over Pratt Hill. This way is shown on the government map. It was the first road leading to Greylock Summit from the south, and was built by funds raised in part by subscription. From Pratt Hill there is obtained a beautiful panorama of the central Berkshire valley. But the grades on this road are steeper than those on the more recently constructed Rockwell road, the southern approach to the mountain. To reach the Pratt Hill road, go straight to the north on the highway through the center of Lanes- boro. Just northerly of the stone school-house the road divides in three. This point of division is about half way on a line drawn fromi the Noppet to Savage Hill. The center road of the three leads to Greylock Summit via Pratt Hill. The road generally used by those who motor is the southern approach to the mountain by way of Rounds Rock. This road is not shown on the gov- ernment map. To go this way one must turn to the eastward at the three corners just mentioned, and take the road that climbs the hill. After continuing thus for about a half mile a road will be noticed, at present 11 grass-grown, turning to the left and continuing north- erly up the ridge. This road finally leads to the southern end of the reservation at Rounds Rock, and ultimately after junction with the road from Cheshire and with that from Pratt Hill leads to the summit. Although the road up the ridge is at first grass-grown, it will be found to improve as the journey is continued. From Cheshire: There are two ways to reach the reservation by road from Cheshire. Both start from the same corner. On the highway in the center of Cheshire just north of the Cheshire Inn turn to the west and go up the hill past the cemetery. After crossing the brook on the stone arch bridge, turn to the left to go up the mountain by way of the southern approach to the mountain from Lanesboro, and travel toward Lanes- boro about three miles. Then, having arrived at the point where the grass-grown road starts up the ridge, turn to the right and travel as directed for those from Lanesboro. The shorter but steeper way to the reservation from Cheshire is that which keeps straight ahead from the stone arch bridge in Cheshire, and turning to the right, follows the approximate course of Kitchen Brook to a point near the Cumlmings house, shown on the Road and Trail map. The Cummings house is the last house passed as one approaches Jones Nose. This road is indicated in part on the government map. But here the Road and Trail map is more up-to-date. After passing the last house, bear to the left until the road up the mountain from the south is reached. 12 ill lilftlf- :: '" li§llllilllliltil H H O fa W o o From Adams : The carriage road to the summit of Mt. Greylock from Adams is circuitous. Starting from the McKinley monument, take the street west, up the hill past the cemetery and the old Quaker Meeting House in its midst. Then turn to the left, taking the second right to the lower end of the Cheshire Harbor Trail at the Scholz house. The road starts up the hill back of the Scholz house in a westerly direction and after reaching about the twenty-four hundred foot contour, turns southerly and swings down around the south- eastern shoulder of Saddle Ball, joining the Kitchen Brook road from) Cheshire just northerly of the Cummings house. A second way from Adams is to turn to the right west of the old Meeting House where before the left was taken. Then, taking the road over the northern end of Ragged mountain, the Walden house, near the Notch Reservoir, will be reached ; and from that point the North Adams road to the summit will be used. Motorists from Adams would do better to take the road from Lanesboro up the ridge to Rounds Rock. From North Adams : There is but one road up Greylock mountain from North Adanls and that is from the Notch Reservoir. It may be reached either by way of Furnace Street or preferably by going toward Braytonville, and turning to the south, thus joining the road from Williamstown about a mile northwesterly of the Notch Reservoir and the Walden house, and proceeding thither. 14 From Williamstown or South Williamstown : There is no direct road up Mt. Greylock from Williamstown. The roads most often travelled are those from New Ashford, North Adams, or, for motors, from Lanesboro. From, the North Adams side the road by the Notch Reservoir of course would be used. If, however, the New Ashford road should be chosen, one should drive down the Green River road toward New Ashford, turning east over the shoulder of Sugar Loaf, before reaching the village. This way to Greylock joins that from Pratt Hill after about a mile and a half, and then proceeds up the mountain, entering the road froml the southward. The late Dr. Bascom of Williams College, for many years the Chairman of the Reservation Commission, very often used this way when coming f romi Williamstown to the Summit. From New Ashford: The road most accessible to residents of New Ashford is that last described for Williamstown; it runs easterly over Sugar Loaf to the Pratt Hill road. Motorists should go to the fork in the road near the stone school house, north of Lanesboro and proceed up the ridge as directed for those from Lanesboro. 15 TRAILS TO THE SUMMIT The Cheshire Harbor Trail: (From the Southeast). From the valley there are three main trails to the summit of Mt. Greylock — the Cheshire Harbor Trail, the Bellows Pipe, and the Hopper Trails. The shortest and most accessible of these is the Cheshire Harbor Trail. And as a result it is the mlost travelled of the three, and the least rugged. To reach the "Harbor" trail one leaves the highway between Cheshire and Adams at the stone arch bridge on the line of the Berkshire Street Railway Co. (Fare from Pittsfield, 20 cents; from Adams, 5 cents), taking the road which starts up Bassett Brook. When a small reser- voir has been passed the road to be taken swings around a hill to the right and then immediately turns from the top of the hill to the north. This road should be followed until the second house, Scholz's, has been reached. The Scholz house is about one-half mile northwest of Cole Mountain, and marks the beginning of the Cheshire Harbor Trail proper. (See Trail map). The Harbor trail approaches Mt. Greylock in the general vicinity of Peck Brook, and follows the trails marked 18 and 19 on the trail map. (Trail No. 19 is a short cut to the summit starting from the divide south of the cut in the rocks on the southern car- riage road). 16 Care should be taken not to turn to the south from the Harbor trail by mistake. The carriage road from, Adams to the summit turns south from the trail, but the trail itself turns northerly. The trail is plainly marked; one might think it a carriage road. The time required for the ascent to the summit is dependent upon the pedestrian. Perhaps two hours for the climib would be an average. Excellent views of Adams and the eastern range of hills are afforded during the climb. A good place to lunch is at Peck Brook, the water of which is excellently cool and pure. Cheshire Harbor and Bellows Pipe Trails : (From Adams. Prom the Southeast. From the Northeast). There are two trails to the summit of Greylock available for trampers from Adams. The best known of these is the Cheshire Harbor Trail which can be reached by street car as described previously. Or the trail can be reached by the road to the Scholz house, found by turning to the south near Adams at the cemetery. (See below). The longer trail from Adamis is the Bellows Pipe. The start may be mlade from the McKinley monument in Adams, taking the street westerly up the hill, past the cemetery, with its old Quaker meeting-house, once attended by Susan B. Anthony. Then one should continue straight on, taking the grass-grown road to the west, toward the mountain. The highest peak, of course, is Greylock. The road follows Hoxie Creek for some distance, going through a gate, and across the brook on a bridge. Follow the road until it crosses the second bridge; 17 then turn sharply to the left on the north bank of the brook. Cross a fence, finally, on the right, and follow it westerly, crossing a small brook coming down from the right. The fence soon turns and in the angle of the wall will be found a granite marker which is one of the corners of the reservation line. This marker may be located on the Road and Trail map quite easily. Continue across the lot in the original direction of the fence, and finally there will be found a wood road on the north bank of the brook. Follow the road up for a short distance and then take the turn to the right, which will lead ultimately to the Bellows Pipe. Thus the southern end of Raven's Crag will be skirted. The Bellows Pipe is the great open pasture between Greylock and Ragged Mountain, or Raven's Crag. At the top of the divide a stonewall will be found running east and west. Follow it westerly to the first trees, and then turn to the left at an angle of forty- five degrees. Soon the trail (No. 17) up Mt. Greylock well be entered as it ascends in a northwesterly direction. Follow it, referring to the trail map for its various windings. It leads to the carriage road near the summit ; thence the road should be taken to the top of the mountain. The Bellows Pipe Trail : The trail most accessible from North Adams is the Bellows Pipe. The trail proper starts at the Walden house near the northwest corner of the Notch Reservoir, and is marked Trail 17 on the Road and Trail map. It may be followed quite readily as it extends on the west side of the Notch toward the 18 Bellows Pipe. At that point if it is desired to see the view to the south one rriay walk to the crest of the hill, near the stone wall, and the trail may be regained by following the directions given from that point under the Bellows Pipe Trail, from Adams. The upper portion of the journey is rather rough. One should not wear a tight pair of boots. Water for drinking is plentiful along this trail both when approaching from Adams and from North Adams. ■The Cascade : For one who comes from North Adams a pleasing variation of the trip to the Walden house may be made by taking a street car (Williamstown or Sand Springs) to Marion Avenue. Then the route extends southerly down that street, straight to the woods. There a clearly marked trail follows up the brook to the Cascade, one of the most beautiful ravines in the county. From the Cascade one may go to the Walden house, should he desire to climb Mt. Greylock, Mt. Fitch, or Mt. Williams, or he may cross the Bellows Pipe to Adams. TWO MORE RECENT TRAILS UP GREYLOCK FROM THE WEST The Mt. Simonds Trail : (Note : Mt. Simonds is called Mt. Prospect on the government map) . This way, long since abandoned, was apparently that used by Williams men of sixty years ago to' ascend Greylock on Mountain day. The lower portion is 19 clearly marked, but the upper portion has been blazed recently. From Williamstown take the Green River road. After a mile and a half turn through the fields to an old limestone quarry, at the northwestern base of Mt. Prospect. This point might be reached by two other roads, as the map will show. When the old quarry has been found, walk due east up the hill to a fence (ioo yards or more), and then follow the fence to the right, southerly up the hill. A large oak with a crystal clear spring at its foot will be found. Then turn to the right on an old wood road running southerly and enter the reservation. Follow the road to the south until it joins another road comling up directly from a house in the valley, almost due west (Abner Towne's). Then continue in the same general direction as before until the road ends near a large stone, just above a switchback. The upper part of the road will be found to be overgrown with bushes and small trees. From the end of the road turn sharply to the right and follow the blazes on the trees, straight up to the summit of the ridge, where an open field with an extensive view will be found. Greylock, two miles to the southeast, will be visible. Follow the open ridge of Prospect southerly until the trees are reached. Just on the northern edge of the woods Trail No. 13 will be found, and it can be followed easterly to the North Adams road. The rest of the way up the mountain by road will be easy. This trail has gentle grades - except for the last quarter mile up to the summit of the Prospect ridge. There is good water on the way up. The views are excellent because the woods do not shut in to the extent that they do on the Hopper Trail. 20 The Hopper Trail: < From the West). The Hopper Trail approaches Greylock Mountain from the west. It begins in the foothills of the Grey- lock group and may be reached at the lower end from either Williamstown, South Williamstown, or from New Ash ford. To reach the Hopper trail from Williamstown one would take the Green River road to Sweets Corners, there turning toward the east and crossing the stream. The road from that point follows up the Hopper Brook (see U. S. Geological Survey map). The last house on the 1,100-foot contour is Bacon's (see Trail map). The course of the trail as it swings around to the south, parallel to the south branch of the Hopper Brook, climbing toward the shoulder between Stony Ledge and Greylock, may be traced easily upon the government map. The Hopper Trail is shown in three sections upon the Trail map : Nos. 8, 9 and 10. The point where trail No. 9 enters the woods must be watched for with care. The trees are blazed, but the footpath is very narrow. Coming down the Hopper Trail it is well to watch for the point on trail No. 9 (on the abandoned road) near a large tree on the right where the trail turns sharply to the west toward the Stony Ledge road. A sign, small and weather-worn, is high up in the tree; and its directions might easily escape one were he not on the watch. 22 £ £ O H 02 £ ^ > 02 0i CD +J s r* o o tf fe tf ^B| F' 1 *' IHe"^^- -*'t(r& TE^ ^S^r Iff * * 1 1 A GREYLOCK ROAD TABLE OF APPROXIMATE DISTANCES Trail Distances to Greylock Summit Miles From Cheshire Harbor, via: Cheshire Harbor Trail 5. From Adams, via: Cheshire Harbor Trail 7.3 Bellows Pipe Trail 5.5 From North Adams, via: Bellows Pipe Trail 7. Bellows Pipe Trail to end Raven's Crag Trail at north (not to Summit) 7. From Williamstown, via: Mt. Simonds Trail 8. Hopper Trail 8. Collins Trail (South Williamstown and Goodell Hollow) :. 10. Road Distances to Greylock Summit From Pittsfield, via: Pratt Hill Road 16. Rounds Rock, Lanesboro 16.20 From Adams, via: Scholz House 13. Lanesboro (Rockwell Road) 21.40 From North Adams, via: Notch Reservoir Road 10.40 Lanesboro 27.50 From Cheshire, via: The Cummings Farm 8.20 Rockwell Road, Lanesboro 12. From Williamstown, via: North Adams Road 14.50 Lanesboro (Rockwell Road) 22. Pratt Hill Road, New Ashford 14.50 35 LESS WELL-KNOWN POINTS A Few Things to See and Where to Find Them Objective The Hopper for Foliage: Examples of Erosion: Cloud Effects on Greylock: Views of North Adams: View Point Mt. Prospect Stony Ledge Camp Ground Inner Hopper Trail Hopper Trail in Autumn The Hopper The Slide The Entire Greylock Group Raven's Crag Saddle Ball and Lower Points Mt. Williams Views of Southern Berkshire: Rounds Rock Jones Nose Views of the Hills West- ward and Southward: Cascades: Glacial Scratching: Saddle Ball Stony Ledge Bassett Brook Hopper Brook, South Branch Heart of Greylock Money Brook At the Summit In 1916 the only peak of all those in the reservation which was shut in by woods upon its summit was Mt. Fitch; and even there, in the autumn and winter, Ragged Mountain was clearly visible. 36 TABLE OF MAP DISTANCES Greylock to: Miles Boston 109 Buffalo 286 Montreal 208 New York City 144 Canadian Boundary 170 Mt. Marcy 112 Mt. Washington 146 The Catskills 50 From Fifteenth Annual Report, Greylock Commission. TABLE OF HEIGHTS Feet Above Sea Level Greylock 3,505 Mt. Everett :.'■' 2,624 Great Blue Hill 635 Mt. Washington 6,285 Mt. Wachusett 2,108 Slide Mountain 4,205 Mt. Marcy 5,344 BIBLIOGRAPHY A partial bibliography of works relating to the Reser- vation will be found in the Fifteenth Annual Report, Grey- lock Commission. REPORTS OF GREYLOCK COMMISSION These are published annually by the state and may be secured gratis from the commission. Financial reports are incorporated in those of the County Treasurer of Berk- shire County, Massachusetts. 37 Plan of Greylock state Reservation Berkshj re Co. 8 % | ffass INOEX TO FOOT TRAILS I MTSIMONds MONEYBROOK VIEIYOF INNER HOPPER Ik a " " " BELLOWS PIPE TRAIL 17 CO. COMn. ROAD TO J7ALOENS HOUSE IB S'CHOLTZ HOUSE TO OIV/OE ROAD /« co.cornm. roao to summit • Bacons dec. i