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The Culinary Handbook 
 
 BY CHARLES FELLOWS 
 
 The Most Complete and Serviceable Reference Book 
 to Things Culinary Ever Published 
 
 FIRST EDITION 
 
 COPYRIGHT 1904 BY CHARLES FELLOWS 
 
 Published by 
 
 THE HOTEL MONTHLY 
 
 325 Dearborn Street 
 CHICAGO 
 
LIBBAHV of OONGRJrSS 
 TWo Oonttt Received 
 
 St! 1C 1904 
 £> Coayrteht Entry 
 (&Jj /#■/<? * + 
 CLASS <2- XXo. No. 
 
 ' C6PY B 
 
 4& 
 
 6 
 
 .1* 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 This book has been prepared with the aim of gathering into a single volume the largest practi- 
 cable collection of every day recipes suited to the catering fraternity iu the English language, mak- 
 ing it as nearly as possible the choicest and most complete work of its kind. 
 
 The name which is given it indicates the principle upon which the book has been made: namely, 
 that it might serve as a book of reference; as a comprehensive exhibit of the growth, and condi- 
 tion of the requirements of the traveling public. 
 
 The work is not a cook book, and does not pretend to teach cookery, yet to those that have al- 
 ready received the fundamental ideas of cookery, it will be found to be the best theoretical teacher 
 obtainable, as it clearly shows what the combinations of the dishes are and what they look like, and 
 how they should be served. 
 
 Necessarily limited in extent, it yet contains more practical matter than any similar publica- 
 tion, presenting over four thousand selections. It is believed that of the culinary writers for the 
 catering profession acknowledged by the intelligent and cultivated to be great, none, whether 
 Foreign cr American have heretofore written the dishes in plain English without the foreign affec- 
 tation of "A LA", an affectation when appearing on the Bill of Fare causing the guest to expect 
 much, and disappointing him by receiving little. 
 
 The dusty road traveled so much by other writers in making their books contain five times as 
 many pages as are necessary has been avoided, and we hope that one of the special merits of this 
 volume is its brevity. 
 
 With these brief explanations, The Culinary Handbook is placed before the catering fraternity, 
 with the hope that it will be deemed worthy of its title. 
 
 The Author. 
 
 
 * 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ABSINTHE — A liqueur made principally from 
 wormwood, anise, angelica, coriander seeds and 
 alcohol, sometimes adulterated with aromatic 
 resins and dangerous colorings; its uses are 
 chiefly as a drink diluted with water, and in 
 making many of the American mixed drinks. 
 
 ACETIC ACID — The foundation of all vinegars; 
 used by confectioners when making icing from 
 whites of eggs,. to facilitate the beating. 
 
 AERATED WATERS— Such as Vichy, Apolli- 
 naris, Carlsbad water, Friedrichshall bitter, 
 etc., are obtained from the springs of nature 
 and recommended for the relief and cure of 
 different complaints of the human system. Imi- 
 tation aerated waters mostly contain sugar, and 
 are sold as pop, such as ginger ale, sarsaparilla, 
 etc. The artificial waters are simply pure 
 waters sweetened, flavored and charged with 
 carbonic acid gas. In Paris oyster shells are 
 washed, and broken into small pieces, and, 
 under the action of vitriol, yield the carbonic 
 acid gas. 
 
 ALBUMEN — An opaque fluid found plentifully 
 in eggs, meats, fish and succulent vegetables, 
 especially asparagus. It is the most nourish- 
 ing substance known; used in its raw state from 
 whites of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarifying 
 purposes. 
 
 ALCOHOL — A colorless liquid obtained from 
 fermenting sugar; is found in all wines and 
 spirits and is the intoxicating quality of them. 
 It is largely used in making flavoring extracts, 
 by diluting the oil of the flavor required with 
 the alcohol. Wood alcohol obtained at any 
 drug store is the best and cleanest material to 
 be used in singeing poultry and game. 
 
 ALLIGATOR PEAR— A fruit found in the West 
 Indies and Mexico, but can be bought at most 
 of the fruit stores in season; the large green 
 ones are the best; they are served the same as 
 canteloupes, or sliced into a salad seasoned 
 with pepper, salt and the juice of a lime. 
 
 ALLSPICE — The product of the pimento shrub, 
 used as a food flavoring. When ground it has 
 a graining of a ruby coloring; purchased in its 
 ground state, is often adulterated with mustard 
 husks. 
 
 A.LMONDS— The best for culinary purposes is 
 the Jordan; it is about an inch long, flat with a 
 clear brown skin, sweet and rather tough. In 
 making almond soup seven-eighths sweet and 
 one-eighth bitter almonds should be used. 
 
 SALTED ALMONDS— Made by blanching, skin- 
 ning, and frying them in butter oil till nicely 
 browned, then dusting with salt; make a nice 
 appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre. 
 
 DEVILLED ALMONDS— Made like salted al- 
 monds, but after salting, well dusted with 
 cayenne pepper. 
 
 ALUM — A white astringent salt, often used to 
 whiten flour, to quickly clear gin, to improve 
 the color of inferior red wines. 
 
 ANCHOVIES — The Dutch are always cleaned of 
 their scales. The French are not, and are 
 larger. Anchovy paste bought on the markets 
 is often adulterated with red-ochre and Veni- 
 tian red. 
 
 ANCHOVY CANAPES— Slices of fried bread, 
 one-quaiter inch thick, spread with anchovy 
 paste or butter, a filleted anchovy on top, the 
 edges decorated with minced whites of hard 
 boiled egg. 
 
 ANCHOVY AIGRETTES— Filleted anchovies 
 washed, then laid for three hours in a pickle of 
 olive oil, vinegar and red pepper; taken up, 
 drained, dipped in batter and fried a light color 
 in very hot fat; served garnished with lobster 
 coral and sprigs of parsley. 
 
 ANCHOVY TOAST— Slices of toast spread with 
 a mixture made of three-fifths essence of an- 
 chovies, one-fifth grated Parmesan cheese, and 
 one-fifth minced filleted anchovies and chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 ANCHOVY ALUMETTES— Preserved ancho- 
 vies in oil, drained, rolled in very thin pie paste, 
 fried; served garnished with fried parsley. 
 
 ANCHOVY FRITTERS — Filleted anchovies 
 coiled up, dipped in batter and fried a light 
 color in hot fat; served garnished with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 ANCHOVY TARTINES— Circles of brown bread 
 spread with anchovy paste, decorated with 
 thinly sliced gherkins alternately with white of 
 hard boiled egg. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ANCHOVY BASKETS— Hard boiled eggs, part 
 of the white cut away to form an oval basket, 
 yolks removed and pounded to a paste with an- 
 chovy essence, seasoned with lemon juice and 
 cayenne pepper, colored lightly with carmine 
 or cochineal, baskets refilled; served garnished 
 with watercress. 
 
 ANCHOVY CROUTONS— A paste of three-fifths 
 anchovy essence, one-fifth grated cheese and 
 one-fifth melted butter and lemon juice, the 
 paste spread on fancy cut slices of fried bread; 
 served with a coiled anchovy on top. 
 
 ANCHOVY SANDWICH— Thin slices of bread 
 cut into shape of circles, spread with the pre- 
 ceding mixture, and filleted anchovies laid 
 between. 
 
 ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES— Anchovy toast 
 garnished with slices of stuffed olives. 
 
 ANCHOVY CANAPES, BERNE — Triangle 
 shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with an- 
 chovy paste or butter, the edges garnished with 
 minced whites of hard boiled eggs, minced 
 yolks, and minced green pickles, with a stuffed 
 olive in the center. 
 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER— Two parts of butter to 
 one part of anchovy essence, a little grated 
 Parmesan cheese and nutmeg, thoroughly mixed 
 together. 
 
 ANCHOVY PASTE— Anchovi;s filleted, the fil- 
 lets rubbed through a fine sieve, the head and 
 bones boiled with a little water and thickened 
 with flour, strained into the paste obtained from 
 the rubbing, mixed; when cooled, a little coch- 
 ineal, walnut catsup, and vinegar added to give 
 the required color and consistency. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE— Anchovy paste or butter 
 worked into a rich brown sauce, or some 
 pounded filleted anchovies, or anchovy essence, 
 lemon juice and cayenne pepper worked into a 
 cream or butter sauce. 
 
 ANCHOVY CREAM— Anchovy paste worked 
 into a butter sauce, and finished w-ith whipped 
 cream. 
 
 ANCHOVY STUFFING- Used very often for 
 stuffing olives and small game birds. One 
 cupful of breadcrumbs squeezed out of milk, 
 one tablespoonful of minced fried onions, four 
 minced fillets of anchovies, one teaspoonful each 
 of minced capers and chopped parsley, the 
 whole mixed; if used for stuffing birds, add the 
 birds liver minced. 
 
 ANCHOVIES POTTED— Anchovy fillets pound- 
 ed and rubbed through a sieve, mixed with 
 ground allspice and cayenne pepper to taste, 
 placed into small jars, pressed down, and one- 
 eighth of an inch of melted lard poured over 
 the top, to seal the contents. 
 
 ANCHOVY SALAD— Shredded fillets of salted 
 anchovies garnished with small white pickled 
 onions, capers and hard boiled eggs; tarragon 
 vinegar sprinkled over the anchovies. Also 
 shredded lettuce and shredded anchovies, a few 
 minced shallots, all mixed together dry, then 
 
 sprinkled with equal parts of olive oil and caper 
 vinegar beaten together. 
 
 ANCHOVY CATSUP— Anchovies, onions, whole 
 cloves, mace, peppers and ginger, sugar and old 
 ale, brought to a quick boil, then slowly sim- 
 mered till done, strained through a hair sieve, 
 cooled, walnut catsup added; bottled for use. 
 
 ANCHOVY FRITTERS— Thin flour pancakes 
 spread with chicken forcemeat, cut in strips 
 twice the size of anchovy fillet, which is laid on 
 one-half of the strip, the other half folded over, 
 then breaded and fried; served garnished with 
 fried parsley. 
 
 ANCHOVY OMELET— Beaten eggs seasoned 
 with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, made 
 into an omelet, the center enclosing some cooked 
 fillets of anchovies; served with equal Darts of 
 tomato and espagnole sauces mixed togetner. 
 
 ANGEL FOOD— A light, white, kind of sponge 
 cake. 
 
 ANGELICA — A green preserved stalk resembling 
 rhubarb, used to decorate cakes, also in iced 
 puddings, ice creams, etc. 
 
 ANILINE — A chemical product of petroleum; 
 the red is the cheapest and best for culinary 
 purposes, besides being perfectly harmless. 
 
 ANISE — An herb, from the seeds of which is ex- 
 tracted the oil of anise; a liqueur called anis- 
 ette is made from the oil; a small proportion of 
 oil of anise mixed with alcohol, produces es- 
 sence of aniseed, used in flavoring cakes and 
 confectionery. 
 
 ANTELOPE — A species of deer; the young are 
 best for culinary purposes, as the meat, besides 
 being treated in all the same ways as venison, 
 is light enough in color to allow of being larded, 
 which cannot be done to venison. Red meats 
 should never be larded, on account of their 
 loss of blood and gravy in cooking. 
 
 APPLES — About twelve really good kinds are 
 obtainable by the steward, for hotel purposes — 
 Pound sweets, King, Baldwins, Spitzenbergs, 
 Northern spy, Rhode Island greenings, Golden 
 pippins, Johnathans, Wine saps, Snow, Shia- 
 wasse beauty, Roxbury russets, Wageners. 
 There are others, but these are among the 
 first rank. 
 
 APPLE BAVAROISE— Apple sauce, flavored 
 with sherry wine and lemon juice, with enough 
 gelatine added to set it, the whole passed 
 through a hair sieve, whipped cream stirred in 
 according to quantity liked, then poured into 
 molds and allowed to set till firm; served with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 APPLE BUTTER — Peeled apples boiled down 
 in cider to a pulp with a flavor of allspice, the 
 pulp then passed through a fine strainer. 
 
 APPLES BAKED— Good firm apples cored, the 
 core hole filled with a mixture of butter and 
 sugar flavored with nutmeg, then placed into a 
 pan containing a little water, and baked till 
 done. 
 
 APPLE CAKE — Apple sauce and an equal quan- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 tity of batter of the consistency of cream, made served with a sauce 
 of flour, milk, eggs and sugar, mixed together APPLES, PORTUGESE STYLE 
 and baked slowly till done; when nearly done, 
 the top dusted with sugar, returned to oven to 
 get a glazed appearance. 
 APPLE CHEESECAKES — Patty pans lined 
 with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade 
 
 Firm apples 
 cored, peeled and simmered in a thin syrup 
 till barely done, taken out, drained, the core 
 hole filled with apricot jam, placed on a dish, 
 the syrup then reduced to a glaze, and poured 
 over them. 
 
 containing a little grated lemon rind and enough APPLE MERINGUE— Apple pulp in a dish, a 
 yolks of eggs to set. 
 APPLE CHARLOTTE— The bottom and sides 
 of a pan or mold lined with thin slices of but- 
 tered bread, the interior filled with thick apple 
 marmalade, the top covered with slices of but- 
 tered bread half an inch thick dipped in a mix- 
 ture of milk and eggs, the charlotte then baked 
 a fine color, turned out and served with whip- 
 ped cream. 
 APPLE CHUTNEY— A pint and a half of vine- 
 gar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one 
 ounce of chillies, one ounce of mustard seed, 
 two ounces of salt, twelve ounces of sugar, 
 boiled slowly for forty-five minutes, then 
 strained through a hair sieve; when cooled the 
 vinegar thus flavored put on again with a large 
 onion minced, one and one-half ounces of 
 minced shallots, two ounces of sultana raisins, 
 and two and one-half pounds of peeled and 
 sliced apples, the whole boiled till apples are 
 pulpy, then placed into stone jars and tied 
 down with skin. 
 APPLE CREAM — Sweet apple sauce, containing 
 
 a little butter and whipped whites of egg. 
 APPLE CROQUETTES— Thick apple marma- 
 lade containing soft breadcrumbs and egg yolks 
 baked till set. When cold, cut in strips two 
 inches long and one inch thick, breaded, fried, 
 and served with orange sauce. 
 APPLE CUSTARD— Apple marmalade mixed 
 with beaten eggs and cream, poured into a pan 
 or dish, and baked till set. 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS— Cored and peeled ap- 
 ples enclosed in pie paste, baked, boiled or 
 steamed till done, served with a sauce or with 
 cream. 
 APPLE FLOAT — Cream sweetened and flavored 
 with nutmeg poured in a dish or pan; apple 
 marmalade containing whipped whites of egg, 
 poured in the centre; baked till set. 
 APPLE FRITTERS— Slices of cored apples, 
 dipped in batter and fried till done; served 
 with a syrup or wine sauce. 
 APPLE PIE — Thin slices of apples, sweetened 
 and spiced, enclosed between an upper and 
 lower crust of pie paste; baked till done. 
 APPLE ICE — Apple marmalade flavored with 
 orange juice, thinned with water, sweetened to 
 taste, poured into a freezer and froze. 
 APPLE CUSTARD PIE— A pie dish lined with 
 puff paste, filled with apple marmalade mixed 
 with cream and yolks of eggs; baked till set. 
 APPLE CUSTARD FRITTERS— Apple mar- 
 malade mixed with custard, baked till set; 
 when cooled, cut in slices, breaded, fried and 
 
 layer of fruit marmalade spread on it, whipped 
 whites of egg and sugar, tastefully spread over 
 all, then placed in oven till of a light fawn 
 color . 
 APPLE TART— A pie plate lined with puff paste 
 with a raised fancy edge to it; filled two-thirds 
 full with apple marmalade and baked; when 
 done, filled up with a boiled custard, the in- 
 terior edge piped round with meringue, also a 
 fancy centre; returned to oven till of a fawn 
 color. 
 APPLE SOUP — Minced cooking apples, grated 
 breadcrumbs, and water each one part, a piece 
 of lemon rind and a flavoring of cinnamon, 
 boiled till thoroughly done, the whole then 
 passed through a fine strainer, and enough 
 white wine added to form a soup consistency. 
 APPLE PANCAKES- -Minced apples worked 
 into an ordinary wheat pancake mixture, the 
 pancakes baked in the usual way, and served 
 with butter and sugar. 
 APPLE SHORTCAKE— Two layers of cooked 
 shortpaste spread between with apple marma- 
 lade, the top ornamented with whipped cream; 
 served with sweetened and flavored cream. 
 APPLE COMPOTE— Cored and pared apples 
 simmered in a boiling syrup till thoroughly 
 done, remaining whole. 
 APPLE ROLY POLY— A biscuit dough con- 
 taining a little sugar, rolled out thin, spread 
 with minced apples, seasoned with grated lemon 
 rind, cinnamon, or ground cloves according to 
 taste, rolled up, the ends tucked in, tied in a 
 cloth for boiling (in a mold for steaming) (in a 
 pan for baking); served with a sauce, or with 
 sweetened cream. 
 APPLES FRIED— Good firm apples, peeled, 
 cored, cut in slices half an inch thick, then 
 dipped in milk, rolled in flour, and fried in 
 very hot lard. 
 APPLE JOHNNY CAKE— Slices of peeled and 
 cored apples in a buttered baking dish, sweet- 
 ened and flavored, a pancake batter poured 
 over them; baked till done and served with or 
 without currant jelly. 
 APPLE MARMALADE— Sweetened apple sauce 
 boiled down till thick enough to cling to a spoon. 
 APPLE PUDDING— Basins or molds lined with 
 a suet crust, filled with slices of apples, sweet- 
 ened and flavored to taste, top crust put on, 
 the basin tied over with a cloth, or mold cover 
 placed on and tied, boiled rapidly till done. 
 APPLE PUFFS— Minced apples fried a little so 
 as not to break, flavored with cinnamon and 
 sugar, placed on squares of puff paste, the 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 edges brought to a top centre and pinched to- 
 gether, brushed over with beaten egg and 
 baked. 
 
 APPLE COBBLER— A pan one and a half 
 inches deep lined with a pie paste, filled with 
 apple marmalade, top crust put on, baked and 
 glazed, served with sweetened and flavored 
 cream, or with whipped cream. 
 
 APPLE TIMBALE— A timbale mold lined with 
 strips of short paste, filled with apple marma- 
 lade, covered with a crust, baked or steamed 
 till paste is set, turned out, served with apricot 
 sauce, and garnished with preserved cherries. 
 
 APPLES GLAZED— Cored and peeled apples 
 of an even size simmered in lemon syrup till 
 just done, taken out, placed on a dish, the 
 syrup reduced till thick, then poured over the 
 apples; when cooled, decorated with angelica 
 and cherries. 
 
 APPLE FLORENTINE— Apples cored and sim- 
 mered till half done, in syrup, taken out, 
 drained, the core hole filled with sweetened 
 rice, the outside coated with a vanilla flavored 
 chestnut puree; made hot again in oven and 
 served with a sprinkling of chopped pistachio 
 nuts. 
 
 APRICOTS ON TOAST— Stewed apricots on 
 sweetened toast, garnished with whipped cream 
 (called apricots au crouton). 
 
 APRICOTS AND RICE FRITTERS— Half an 
 apricot, the other half formed of rice croquette 
 mixture, put together, breaded, fried and 
 served with apricot sauce (called apricots a la 
 Colbert). 
 
 APRICOTS WITH RICE— Stewed or canned 
 apricots in syrup, bordered with sweetened 
 rice, whipped cream over the apricots, sprink- 
 led with chopped pistachio nuts (called apricots 
 a la Conde). 
 
 APRICOT BAVAROISE— Stiff apricot marma- 
 lade with whipped cream containing a little 
 gelatine mixed in, filled into molds, set till firm, 
 turned out on a dish, and the edge piped around 
 with whipped cream. 
 
 APRICOT CHARLOTTE— A pan or mold lined 
 with lady fingers, strips of buttered bread or 
 toast, filled with stewed apricots, covered with 
 the same material as the lining, baked, turned 
 out, and served with a fruit sauce 
 
 APRICOT COBBLER— (Sometimes called "Ap- 
 ricots D'Artois.") Two sheets of puff paste 
 baked, one spread with apricot marmalade, the 
 other laid on top, then cut in squares, diamonds 
 or with a fancy shaped cutter, the edge orna- 
 mented with piped meringue, dried in the oven 
 to a straw color, the centre of top decorated 
 with jelly. 
 
 APRICOT COMPOTE— Apricots simmered in 
 thick syrup till done, served with the syrup 
 they were cooked in. 
 
 APRICOT CHARTREUSE— A centre jelly mold 
 decorated at bottom with stiffened cream, sides 
 coated with jelly, halves of cooked apricots fan- 
 
 cifully placed around the mold, these again 
 coated with jelly, the mold then filled with 
 jelly, set, turned out, and the centre filled with 
 Bavarian cream. 
 
 APRICOTS IN CASES— Fresh apricots halved, 
 stoned, simmered in raspberry syrup, served 
 in rice cases with angelica sauce. 
 
 APRICOT FRITTERS— Halves of apricots or 
 spoonfuls of apricot marmalade laid on a thin 
 circle of paste, another circle placed on top, 
 edges pinched together, trimmed, fried till done. 
 Also halves of apricots laid in diluted brandy 
 and sugar for half an hour, then dipped in 
 batter, fried, dusted with sugar, and served 
 with a syrup sauce. 
 
 APRICOT PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS— 
 Very light patty shells, nearly filled with apri- 
 cot marmalade, finished by filling and decorat- 
 ing with whipped cream. 
 
 APRICOT MARMALADE OR JAM— Raw ap- 
 ricots stoned and rubbed through a sieve. To 
 every oound of the pulp is added ten ounces 
 of sugar with a few of the kernels blanched 
 and skinned; boiled till thick enough to coat 
 a spoon. 
 
 APRICOT SHERBET— Apricots boiled in syrup; 
 when done rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
 syrup and pulp then poured into a freezer and 
 frozen; when nearly done, a flavoring of mar- 
 aschino and some whipped whites of eggs are 
 added, then frozen five minutes. 
 
 APRICOT SAUCE — Water, sugar, apricots, 
 lemon juice and a little grated orange rind, 
 boiled, thickened with corn starch, then rubbed 
 through a fine strainer. 
 
 APRICOT TARTLETTES — Small tartlette 
 molds lined with puff paste, filled with apricot 
 marmalade, baked; when done, the edges dec- 
 orated with crystalized cherries, and the center 
 piped with whipped cream. 
 
 APRICOT OMELET— Beaten eggs with a flavor- 
 ing of vanilla made into an omelet, the inside 
 enclosing some apricot marmalade or compote, 
 omelet then placed on dish, dusted with sugar, 
 marked with a hot wire, or glazed under a sal- 
 amander. 
 
 ARTICHOKES — Are of two kinds, the green or 
 globe, and the Jerusalem. The globe is some- 
 times used for salads, and served with a French 
 dressing hot with pepper; also boiled plain and 
 served with any of the sauces appropriate to 
 cauliflower. The Jerusalem resembles a rough 
 knobbly potato. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS BRAISED — Arti- 
 choke bottoms filled with chicken forcemeat, 
 braised, served on a crouton, with a rich brown 
 or mushroom sauce poured around. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FORCE- 
 MEAT — Artichoke bottoms spread with a puree 
 of onions and rice mixed together, filled up with 
 forcemeat, sprinkled with grated cheese and 
 breadcrumbs, arranged in a pan, moistened 
 with consomme and browned in the oven. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Served with cream onion sauce around (called 
 Artichokes a la Soubise.) 
 
 ARTICHOKE EOTTOMS WITH FOIE GRAS 
 — Artichoke bottoms spread with a mixture of 
 foie-gras and minced truffles, covered with a 
 reduced white mushroom sauce, grated bread 
 crumbs sprinkled over, then browned in the 
 oven; served with a truffle sauce poured around, 
 (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Strasbourg.) 
 
 ARTICHOKE FRITTERS —Cooked artichoke 
 bottoms seasoned, breaded, or dipped in batter 
 and fried in very hot lard; or mashed Jerusa- 
 lem artichokes mixed with egg yolks, and sea" 
 soned with nutmeg, taken up by spoonfuls and 
 fried. 
 
 ARTICHOKE CHIPS — Jerusalem artichokes 
 peeled and cut into very thin slices with a Sara- 
 toga chip cutter, placed in cold salted water for 
 an hour, taken up a few at a time, dried, then 
 fried in very hot fat, drained, sprinkled with 
 salt. 
 
 ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN— Same as arti- 
 chokes scalloped. Artichoke bottoms cut in 
 slices and mixed with Bechamel sauce, may be 
 used. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH RAGOUT— 
 Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of 
 diced truffles, mushrooms, tongue and breast 
 of chicken, all mixed with Allemande sauce, a 
 thin layer of chicken forcemeat placed on top f 
 sprinkled with grated bread-crumbs and cheese, 
 then browned, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la 
 Montglas.) 
 
 GLOBE ARTICHOKES, COLBERT SAUCE— 
 Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke re" 
 moved, parboiled in salted water, drained' 
 cooled, then arranged in a sauce pan with a 
 little butter, white wine and consomme; sim- 
 mered till done and glazy; served with Colbert 
 sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la 
 Lyonnaise). 
 
 GLOBE ARTICHOKES STUFFED— Globe ar- 
 tichokes trimmed and the choke removed, the 
 bottoms fried quickly in olive oil for three min- 
 utes, turned over and the leaves fried a minute, 
 taken up and drained, the interior filled with a 
 savory stuffing of meat, herbs and bread-crumbs; 
 arranged in a sautoir, then covered with thin 
 slices of bacon, equal parts of white wine and 
 consomme, simmered till tender, taken up, 
 drained, the braise reduced to a glaze, skimmed 
 and added to an Italian sauce; served with the 
 sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la 
 Barigoule). 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH ONIONS— 
 Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of fried 
 onions, bread-crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, 
 sprinkled with lemon juice, then browned in 
 the oven; served with a brown sauce poured 
 around (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a l'ltalienne). 
 
 SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES— Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes cut to shape of oysters, boiled in salted 
 
 5 
 
 water till tender, taken up and drained, then 
 put in scallop shells or dishes, covered with an- 
 chovy sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and 
 bread-crumbs, then browned in the oven. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED —Arti- 
 choke bottoms filled with forcemeat, covered 
 with supreme sauce, sprinkled with grated 
 cheese and bread-crumbs, browned in the oven, 
 and served with sauce Supreme (called Fonds 
 d"Artichauts a la Supreme.) 
 
 ARTICHOKE OMELET— Thin strips of the 
 tender part of the globe artichoke seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, lightly fried in butter, 
 drained, added to beaten eggs containing chop- 
 ped parsley, made into an omelet; served with 
 cream sauce poured around the omelet. 
 
 ARTICHOKES WITH EGG— Artichoke bot- 
 toms boiled, served on toast, garnished with 
 quartered hard boiled eggs, and maitre d'hotel 
 butter poured over the artichokes. 
 
 ARTICHOKES BOILED — Globe artichokes, 
 the tips of the leaves cut and the bottoms 
 rounded, the stalk removed and the under 
 leaves trimmed away; well washed and soaked 
 in salted water for an hour, placed in boiling 
 salted water, and boiled rapidly till tender, 
 taken up, drained, the choke removed, served 
 with melted butter, or sauces appropriate to 
 cauliflower. 
 
 ARTICHOKES, FAMILY STYLE— Jerusalem 
 artichokes peeled and trimmed to the shape of 
 pears with a flat bottom, boiled in salted water 
 till tender; a dish of mashed potatoes, arti- 
 chokes placed around it point upwards, and a 
 boiled Brussels sprout placed between each 
 artichoke. 
 
 ARTICHOKE SOUP — Globe artichokes par- 
 boiled in salted water, the choke, edible part 
 and leaves rubbed through a sieve, the puree 
 thus obtained one part; cream of chicken soup, 
 one part; onion cream sauce one part, all in- 
 corporated, and boiling milk added to obtain 
 the desired consistency of thin cream. 
 
 ARTICHOKE AND ONION SALAD — Arti- 
 choke bottoms and onions both cooked and 
 sliced, dished alternately, garnished with cooked 
 beets and carrots cut with a fancy cutter; served 
 either with French dressing or salad cream. 
 
 ARTICHOKE AND TOMATO SALAD— Cooked 
 artichoke bottoms and raw sliced peeled toma- 
 toes, same size as the bottoms, arranged alter- 
 nately on dish, sprinkled with French dressing 
 containing chopped chervil. 
 
 ASPARAGUS— Is of two kinds, the red and 
 green; the red is large, thick and full; the green 
 is smaller, with a whitish stalk and green head, 
 of delicate flavor. 
 
 ASPARAGUS STEWED— Asparagus heads, also 
 the tender part of the stalks cut into inch 
 lengths, blanched, drained, then simmered till 
 tender in a butter sauce, finished by adding a 
 liason of egg yolks and cream. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE— As- 
 paragus heads with all the tender part of the 
 stalk attached, boiled in boiling water contain- 
 ing a small piece of common washing soda and 
 salt till done, a piece of toast placed on a dish, 
 the asparagus stalks resting on the toast with 
 the heads in the dish, Hollandaise sauce poured 
 over the heads. 
 
 ASPARAGUS — Cooked like the preceding may 
 also be served with plain melted butter, cream, 
 veloute, mousseline or bechamel sauce; also, 
 after cooking, allowed to become cold, and 
 served without toast, but with either tartare 
 vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce. 
 
 ASPARAGUS OMELET — Asparagus tips 
 blanched and drained, then fried lightly in 
 butter, surplus butter poured off and a little 
 cream sauce added; omelet mixture containing 
 chopped parsley formed, enclosing a spoonful 
 of the asparagus, placed on a dish and a spoon- 
 ful of asparagus placed at each end. 
 
 ASPARAGUS POINTS WITH QUENELLES 
 — Asparagus points and about two inches of 
 the stalk boiled, drained, laid on toast, bord- 
 ered with small quenelles of chicken, and Hol- 
 landaise sauce poured over the tips. 
 
 ASPARAGUS SOUP— Asparagus heads blanched 
 drained and lightly fried with minced shallots 
 in butter, then laid aside, the stalks boiled in 
 veal or chicken broth till tender, a little white 
 roux added, then rubbed through a sieve and 
 mixed with equal parts of veloute and cream 
 sauce, brought to a simmer, the heads now 
 added and served. 
 
 ASPARAGUS PUREE— Asparagus points and 
 the tender part of the stalks blanched and 
 drained, lightly fried in butter with some 
 minced shallots, green onions, parsley and a 
 little sugar, turned into chicken broth, brought 
 to a boil, thickened with white roux, the whole 
 rubbed through a sieve, spinach juice added to 
 help give a greenish color, seasoned and 
 served. 
 
 ASPARAGUS SALAD— Two inch lengths with 
 the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a 
 leaf of lettuce with a cream salad dressing. 
 
 ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD — A 
 spoonful of ice cold salmon en mayonnaise gar- 
 nished with asparagus tips in French dressing 
 
 ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD 
 — Cooked cauliflower in flowerets garnished 
 with asparagus tips, served sprinkled with 
 chopped capers and cream salad dressing. 
 
 ASPARAGUS PATTIES — Cooked asparagus 
 heads and mushrooms in equal parts mixed 
 with veloute sauce, patty shells filled with the 
 mixture, tops placed on; served with a sauce 
 mousseline poured around the base. 
 
 ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE— Cooked aspar- 
 agus heads seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 placed in a vegetable dish, equal parts of butter 
 and grated parmesan cheese pounded together 
 with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and lemon 
 
 juice, the asparagus covered with the cheese 
 and butter, browned in the oven and served. 
 
 ASPIC — The name given to a clear savory jelly 
 made from meat, and is used to decorate en- 
 trees, pies, hams, tongues, game, pigs' heads, 
 salads, prawns, vegetables, fish, etc. 
 
 ASPIC JELLY— Plenty of veal knuckles, calf's 
 feet boned and blanched, and a fowl or two are 
 covered with clear water, fetched slowly to a 
 boil, skimmed, a little cold water then added, 
 again brought to the boil and skimmed, carrots, 
 onions, celery, parsley, a little garlic, bay 
 leaves, thyme, mace and whole peppers are 
 then added and simmered slowly for six hours, 
 fat taken off, then strained through a consomme 
 towel, allowed to become quite cold and all fat 
 removed, then placed over a quick fire, brought 
 to the boil, skimmed, removed to cool off a 
 little; while cooling, gelatine at the rate of two 
 ounces to the gallon is added; some lean veal 
 is now chopped fine and mixed with some whip- 
 ped whites of eggs and egg shells, also a bottle 
 of white wine, this mixture poured into the 
 cooling stock and allowed to come to a slow 
 boil; when just at boiling point a little ice water 
 containing lemon juice is put in, and as soon 
 as coagulation takes place it is drawn to one 
 side and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour 
 longer, then strained through a jelly bag and 
 set away for use. 
 
 ATELETTE — Is a skewer generally made of 
 silver or plated metal, and is used to decorate 
 hot and cold pieces for banquet tables; combi- 
 nations on the skewer according to the dish 
 and the fancy of the cook can be made of cocks- 
 combs, button mushrooms, crayfish, prawns, 
 animelles (lamb-fries) carrots, turnips, green 
 peas, parsley, truffles, sweetbreads, crystallized 
 fruits, preserved violets, cherries, strawberries, 
 sweet jelly, aspic jelly, etc., etc. 
 
 ATTEREAUX — Is a skewer generally used for 
 cooking dishes en brochette (see brochette). 
 
 BABA — A light yeast raised cake containing 
 fruit and almonds, generally served as dessert 
 with a rum sauce. 
 
 BAKING POWDER — Is better made than 
 bought; the following receipt is cheap and 
 effective: five pounds of tartaric acid, eight 
 pounds of bi-carbonate of soda, sixteen pounds 
 of potato flour, mixed and rubbed through a 
 fine sieve. By the addition of a quarter of an 
 ounce of turmeric to eight pounds of baking 
 powder you produce EGG POWDER, which 
 saves eggs and gives richness of color. 
 
 BANANA — Semi-tropical fruit that grow in bun- 
 ches sometimes six feet in length and contain- 
 ing four to five hundred bananas, that, when 
 ripe, change either to a bright yellow or purple 
 red color. The yellow are esteemed for their 
 flavor, while the red are best for cooking, as 
 they are more firm. The merchants in selling 
 the fruit, fix the price according to the number 
 of HANDS the bunch contains A hand is a 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 section on the stalk and contains, according to 
 the size of the fruit, from ten to twenty bananas. 
 Bananas may be bought in a green state much 
 cheaper than when ripe. When bought green, 
 the way of ripening is to hang the bunches up 
 in a dark room, and subject them to a steady 
 heat of seventy-five degrees. 
 
 BANANA FRITTERS— Bananas cut slantwise 
 in halves, laid for a while in diluted brandy 
 and sugar, then dipped in batter and fried in 
 plenty of hot fat, taken up, drained, rolled in 
 powdered sugar, and serve with a fruit sauce. 
 
 BANANAS BAKED— Bananas split in halves 
 lengthwise, laid in a buttered pan, dusted with 
 powdered sugar, browned quickly in the oven; 
 served with a cocoanut syrup sauce. 
 
 BANANAS FRIED — Bananas split in halves 
 lengthwise, dipped in milk, then rolled in flour, 
 fried in clear butter to a golden brown; served 
 with currant jelly. 
 
 BANANA COMPOTE— Bananas cut in quarters 
 slantwise, simmered in syrup till done; served 
 on a bed of sweetened rice, with the syrup 
 poured over them. 
 
 BANANA ICE CREAM— Bananas peeled and 
 rubbed through a fine sieve; added to the cream 
 to be frozen at the rate of one pound of pulp to 
 the gallon. 
 
 BANANA SALAD — Alternate slices of bananas, 
 peeled oranges, and dessicated cocoanut are 
 placed in a fruit dish till full, over which is 
 poured enough brandy and rum mixed with 
 sugar to just moisten the salad. 
 
 BACON — Is known as salted and dried. The 
 salted is generally used as boiling bacon, and 
 the dried, which is subsequently smoked, is 
 generally used for frying and broiling. In select- 
 ing bacon discard any with yellow fat. Good 
 bacon is red in the lean and the fat is white and 
 firm. * * * Bacon fat is better than butter for 
 many things that have to be fried, such as liver, 
 veal chops, onions for curry, etc., is also used 
 instead of olive oil with potato salad, lettuce 
 salad, combination salad, etc. * * * Bacon is 
 appropriate boiled with cabbage, kraut and 
 string, wax and haricot beans; it is an improve- 
 ment to an omelet, and is the proper thing to 
 eat with liver, eggs and fowls. 
 
 BAIN-MARIE — A foreign culinary term for a 
 hot water bath in which are kept the pots or 
 saucepans containing sauces, garnitures, en- 
 trees, soups, etc., that require to be kept hot 
 without reaching the boiling point. 
 
 BALLOTINE — Is the name given to a chaud- 
 froid of poultry, game, foie-gras, spring lamb, 
 etc., is made by mincing the flesh and forming 
 it into forcemeat, then stuffing small boned 
 birds such as larks, quails, snipe, woodcock, 
 squabs, etc., cooking them and serving them 
 cold. Sometimes the forcemeat is stuffed into 
 the skin of a turkey leg, sewn up, cooked, 
 shaped like a ham; when cold, one end is 
 masked with a brown sauce, the other with a 
 
 white sauce, imitating a ham skin; they are 
 then ornamented with aspic jelly, atelettes, etc. 
 
 BARAQUILLE — Is the foreign culinary term for 
 a patty or vol-au-vent filled with a mince of 
 veal, chicken, partridge, truffles, small game, 
 fresh mushrooms, sweetbreads, etc. 
 
 BARBECUE— Means an animal roasted whole; 
 although in recent years the word has been 
 applied to gatherings at places where an animal 
 roasted whole and served to the guests is the 
 principal feature of the party. 
 
 BARON OF BEEF — One of the olden-time 
 dishes of Great Britain's banquet tables, the 
 term applied to two short loins of beef left 
 whole, resembling a saddle of mutton. 
 
 BASIL — The name of a favorite herb used in 
 seasoning turtle soup. Cloves resemble it in 
 taste and flavor, and since the herb is as a rule 
 hard to procure, even in the large cities, the 
 clove does duty for it in a very creditable 
 manner. 
 
 BAGRATION— The name applied through a for- 
 eign medium to a few dishes, principally soups 
 that are composed of a medley of fish and vege- 
 tables. 
 
 BARLEY— A grain used by brewers in malting; 
 generally found on the market in two sizes or 
 qualities known as Scotch and Pearl. The 
 Scotch is larger and has the inner husk left on ; 
 the Pearl is smaller and completely freed from 
 husk, which makes it better adapted for culi- 
 nary use; chiefly used in soups and gruels. 
 
 BASS — A well known species of fish, especially 
 adapted for culinary purposes on account of its 
 shape and size as well as its firm meat and deli- 
 cate flavor. There are four or five principal 
 kinds chiefly used, the Black, Striped, Sea, 
 Silver, and Spotted, of which the Black stands 
 first. 
 
 BASS BROILED— The fish is chosen of as near 
 a pound in weight as possible, if for club or 
 restaurant use: scaled, trimmed, seasoned, 
 scored slantwise, rolled in flour, brushed with 
 melted butter or olive oil, broiled; served with 
 a slice of broiled bacon, a spoonful of melted 
 butter, slice of lemon, and a garnish of parsley. 
 If used as a course of a dinner, before broiling 
 it is filleted into portion pieces. 
 
 BASS FRIED- -Prepared as the preceding, ex- 
 cept it is not scored; fried a golden brown, and 
 served as if broiled, or with tomato, anchovy 
 or Genevoise sauces. 
 
 BASS BOILED— Scaled, trimmed, cut into por- 
 tion pieces, placed into boiling water contain- 
 ing slices of carrot and onion, bay leaves, whole 
 peppers, salt and a dash of vinegar; served 
 with either butter, cream, parsley, shrimp, an- 
 chovy, oyster or hollandaise sauces; sometimes 
 served with green peas. 
 
 BASS BAKED— Scaled, trimmed, (left whole for 
 restaurant and cut in portions if for hotel use), 
 placed in pan, seasoned with wine, broth, oil, 
 salt, pepper and minced shallots, sheet of oiled 
 
8 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 paper put over, baked; when nearly done, 
 equal quantities of parsley and espagnole sauces 
 added to the pan; the fish served with the 
 sauce, (called, Bass a la Conde). 
 
 BASS BRAISED— Prepared as the preceding, 
 placed in pan or sautoir containing slices of 
 carrot, onion, celery and parsley, with enough 
 Bordelaise sauce to moisten the fish, braised 
 slowly till done; served with the sauce and 
 garnished with shrimps, (called, Bass a la Bor- 
 delaise). 
 
 BASS BRAISED— The fish cut into fillets, larc- 
 ed, braised in equal parts of tomato and bech- 
 amel sauces; when cooked, the sauce poured 
 into saucepan, and added to it some puree of 
 mushrooms, lobster roe, sliced truffles and 
 sauterne wine; the fish served with the sauce, 
 and garnished with fish quenelles, (called, bass 
 a la Chambord). 
 
 BASS SAUTE— The fish prepared as for frying, 
 rolled in flour, and fried plain; a little gravy 
 made in the pan the fish was fried in with flour 
 and fish broth, and served with the fish, gar- 
 nished with fancy potatoes, (called bass a la 
 Meuniere). 
 
 BASS CROQUETTES— Cold cooked bass with 
 the skin and bones removed, then picked and 
 put in a thick fish cream sauce, seasoned with 
 anchovy essence, salt, pepper and grated nut- 
 meg, allowed to become cold, shaped into cro- 
 quettes, breaded, fried, and served with either 
 tomato, bordelaise, genoise or anchovy sauces, 
 garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. 
 
 BATTER — A consistency of flour and liquids 
 used to dip foods in before frying; also a pan- 
 cake and pudding mixture. The following 
 fritter batter is used for frying any foods of a 
 plain nature: a pound of flour is gradually 
 moistened with a half pint each of milk and 
 water, added to which is the whipped whites 
 of four eggs and half a cup of melted butter. 
 
 BATTER for frying sweet foods and fruits is 
 made of a pound of flour, a heaping teaspoonful 
 of baking powder and half cup of sugar mixed 
 together dry, then moistened with a cup and a 
 half of milk and two beaten eggs. 
 
 BATTER for frying vegetables is made of a 
 pound of flour seasoned with salt, moistened 
 with a pint of milk, one beaten egg, and a 
 spoonful of olive oil. 
 
 BATTER for French pancakes is made of a 
 pound of flour very gradually moistened with a 
 quart of milk and sixteen beaten eggs, the 
 grated rind and juice of one lemon and a seas- 
 oning of salt. This batter is fried in small 
 HOT frying pans, very thin, tossed over, 
 spread with preserves, rolled up and sprinkled 
 with powdered sugar. They are also called 
 JENNY LIND PANCAKES. 
 
 BATTER for Swiss pancakes is made of six oun- 
 ces of flour gradually moistened with six beaten 
 eggs and a quart of milk with a seasoning of 
 salt; they are fried like the preceding, but 
 
 prior to tossing them over they are strewn with 
 steamed currants. Served currant side up with 
 powdered sugar, not rolled. 
 
 BATTER for Yorkshire pudding is made of three 
 quarters of a pound of flour gradually moistened 
 with three pints of milk, nine beaten eggs, and 
 half a cup of melted butter; one teaspoonful of 
 salt and two of baking powder is beaten in just 
 before putting into oven. 
 
 BATTER for wheat griddle cakes is made of a 
 pound of flour, one ounce of baking powder, 
 two beaten eggs, three cups of milk, a little 
 melted butter, sugar and salt. 
 
 BATTER for corn griddle cakes is made of half 
 a pound each of wheat flour and corn meal 
 mixed dry with a little salt and one ounce of 
 baking powder, then moistened with a pint 
 each of milk and water, two beaten eggs, a little 
 syrup and two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. 
 
 BATTER for flannel griddle cakes is made of a 
 pound of flour, a quart of water and a small 
 cake of yeast, this is set to rise; when risen, 
 two eggs, two ounces of melted lard, a little salt 
 and syrup are beaten in, allowed to rise again 
 before baking. 
 
 BATTER for graham griddle cakes is made the 
 same as for corn, except using graham flour for 
 the corn meal. 
 
 BATTER for rice griddle cakes is made of a pint 
 each of sifted flour and dry boiled rice mixed 
 together with a little salt, one teaspoonful of 
 baking powder, moistened with half a pint of 
 milk, three eggs and a little syrup. 
 
 BATTER for buckwheat cakes is made of self- 
 raising buckwheat flour prepared according to 
 the directions given on the package; or one 
 pound of buckwheat flour moistened with a pint 
 and a half of warm water with enough yeast 
 added to raise it; when risen, a little salt, syrup 
 and melted lard or butter is beaten into it, and 
 sometimes a little corn meal is appreciated. 
 
 BAY LEAVES— The leaf of the laurel tree dried 
 and used in seasoning soups, sauces, etc.; they 
 resemble in taste and flavor, bitter almonds. 
 
 BEANS — One of the most nutritious foods that 
 can be used; the varieties most used are the 
 lima or butter bean, the white haricot or navy 
 bean, the red and the black haricot, the flag- 
 eolet or kidney bean. 
 
 LIMA BEANS BOILED— The dried beans are 
 soaked in water for a few hours, then boiled 
 till tender, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and butter, or mixed with cream sauce If 
 canned beans are used they are first washed 
 from their can liquor, then heated and seasoned 
 as above; if fresh beans are used, they are put 
 to boil in boiling water containing salt and a 
 small piece of common washing soda; when 
 done, drained, and seasoned as above. 
 
 LIMA BEANS SAUTE— The beans either dried, 
 fresh or canned are prepared up to the season- 
 ing point of the preceding receipt, then placed 
 in pan containing either small pieces of cooked 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 bacon or salt pork, or just plain melted butter, 
 then thoroughly tossed and heated in the pan, 
 seasoned; sometimes they are sprinkled with 
 finely chopped parsley before serving. 
 
 LIMA BEANS SALAD— Either dried, fresh or 
 canned beans boiled till tender; when cold they 
 are mixed with a cream, hollandaise or mayon- 
 naise salad dressing and served on a bed of 
 lettuce. 
 
 LIMA BEANS PUREE— Soaked dried beans 
 put to boil with a piece of salt pork in white 
 stock containing onions, carrots, parsley, and 
 whole mace; when cooked the pork and vege- 
 tables removed, the beans and stock rubbed 
 through a fine sieve, then placed in a clean 
 saucepan, brought to the boil, seasoned, a little 
 flour and water thickening added to prevent 
 coagulation; served with small toast. 
 
 LIMA BEANS, cream of — Equal parts of the 
 finished puree of the preceding, and cream or 
 veloute sauce, made hot separate, then thor- 
 oughly mixed without further boiling. 
 
 FLAGEOLETS or kidney beans are obtainable 
 in cans or in the dried state. The average 
 patron does not know what a flageolet is, hence 
 the call for them at table is small; but most 
 people know what a kidney bean is, and if put 
 on the bill of fare as such, the demand will be 
 gratifying to the cook. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS IN CREAM— Poulette, espag- 
 nole or veloute sauces. The beans if canned, 
 washed from the can liquor; if dried they are 
 soaked, then boiled tender, drained and re- 
 heated in any of the four sauces above men- 
 tioned. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS, GERMAN STYLE— Soaked, 
 boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
 washed off, then heated and tossed in butter, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper with a little 
 summer savoury; a few salted herrings skinned 
 boned and cut into small pieces, either mixed 
 with the beans, or served as a garnish to them. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS, FRENCH STYLE— Soaked, 
 boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones 
 washed off, a little minced onion and garlic 
 lightly fried in olive oil to a golden brown color, 
 oil poured off, beans put in with some chopped 
 parsley, tossed together with the onions, then 
 moistened with veloute sauce, brought to the 
 boil, seasoned and served. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE — The 
 cooked beans, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 butter, sprinkled with chopped parsley and 
 served. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS, PANACHES — The word 
 panaches means mixed. Cold cooked kidney 
 beans mixed with equal parts of cold cooked 
 navy or lima beans, are heated with a litrie 
 butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped 
 parsley and served. Another mixture is made 
 of equal parts of cold cooked string beans (green ) 
 and wax beans (yellow). 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, BOSTON STYLE — More 
 
 often placed on the bill of fare as "baked pork 
 and beans." The beans are washed and soaked 
 over night; into the bean jar is put some black 
 nolasses, salt, pepper and dry mustard, these 
 are well mixed, cold water is then added to 
 thin the mixture; the soaked beans now placed 
 into the jar filling it two-thirds full, a piece of 
 scored, or slices of salt pork is placed on top 
 of the beans, jar filled with water, lid placed 
 on, and put in a slow oven and baked till done; 
 should be served with steamed brown bread. 
 The more common way, however, that pork and 
 beans are cooked, is to soak them over night, 
 place them on to boil in the morning, when at 
 boiling point they are skimmed, and the salt 
 pork put to boil with them, when done the pork 
 removed and cut in slices, the beans put into 
 pans, seasoned, sometimes colored with caramel, 
 the slices of pork arranged on top of the beans, 
 sprinkled with sugar and placed in the oven till 
 browned. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS WITH BACON— The cold 
 beans are nicely fried with butter or bacon fat, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper with a little sage, 
 then served with a slice of broiled bacon. 
 
 HARICOT BEANS PUREE— Soaked beans put 
 to boil with salt pork in white stock containing 
 carrots, onions, celery or celery seed or salt, 
 parsley and whole mace; when done the pork 
 and vegetables removed, the beans and stock 
 rubbed through a fine sieve, then placed in a 
 clean saucepan, seasoned, a little flour and 
 water thickening added to prevent coagulation, 
 served with small toast. 
 
 HARICOT SOUP, FAMILY STYLE— Prepared 
 same as the preceding, but instead of the beans 
 being rubbed through a sieve, they are left 
 whole in the soup, and the vegetables and pork 
 cut up very small, returned to the soup and 
 served with it, along with small toast. 
 
 BEAN PUREE WITH ONIONS— Is the puree 
 above but considerable onions boiled in the 
 stock, and rubbed through the sieve with the 
 beans, (called, puree of beans, a la Soubise). 
 
 HARICOT BEANS, CREAM SAUCE — Cold 
 boiled haricot beans with a flavoring of salt 
 pork, mixed into a white cream onion sauce, 
 seasoned with nutmeg, made hot, but not re- 
 boiled. 
 
 RED HARICOT BEANS— Are mostly used as 
 a garniture to salt leg of boiled pork. They are 
 soaked, boiled with the pork, drained, placed 
 in a saucepan, white wine added, then reduced 
 to a glaze with a ladle of consomme; served 
 with the pork in conjunction with small glazed 
 onions. 
 
 BLACK BEANS WITH RISSOTO— The beans 
 soaked and boiled with bacon; when done, the 
 bacon cut up small and mixed with the drained 
 beans, then moistened with Spanish sauce, 
 seasoned with anchovy butter, made hot again 
 and served garnished with rissoto. 
 
 GREEN AND WAX BEANS— Are best suited 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 for culinary use when served as a plain vege- 
 table boiled in salted water with the cover of 
 the saucepan OFF. The beans have the strings 
 removed, then shred or cut across; when boiled, 
 drained, moistened with a little consomme, and 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, (time of 
 boiling 15 to 35 minutes according to age). 
 
 BEEF — For culinary purposes is of two kinds, 
 the steer and the cow. Steer beef is superior 
 and the flesh should be of a bright red marble 
 with yellow fat, and a thick outside layer of 
 fat under a fine grained skin; the lean should 
 be firm and elastic when pressed with the fing- 
 ers; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. 
 Cow beef is of closer grain, the fat is white in- 
 stead of yellow, and the flesh of a darker red, 
 BULL beef is sometimes worked off on the 
 unwary by the packing houses when shipping 
 to distant cities, especially so in the form of 
 tenderloins; it is large, coarse, very dark in 
 color, and unfit for table use. 
 
 BEEF a la MODE — Any piece of solid beef, 
 preferably the silverside of the round, is larded 
 with seasoned strips of larding pork, then laid 
 in dilute vinegar containing slices of carrot, 
 turnips and onions with whole spices, for sev- 
 eral hours. It is then taken out and quickly 
 roasted in oven to get the outside seared, then 
 placed in saucepan, covered with a piquante 
 sauce, lid of saucepan put on, then gently sim- 
 mered till tender; served in slices with a gar- 
 nish of braised vegetables and some of the 
 sauce it was cooked in, (also called, "pot roast" 
 and "sour pot roast.") 
 
 BEEF STEW, GERMAN STYLE — Cold beef 
 a la mode is cut into small pieces and heated in 
 a sour sauce; served garnished with potato 
 pancakes. 
 
 BEEF ROAST — Preferably the set, or seven ribs 
 from the shoulder to the loin is for hotel use. 
 The lower end of the ribs, called SHORTRIBS, 
 should be roasted with another pan over the 
 top, sb as to become more juicy and tender 
 than by roasting them open. The usual accom- 
 paniment to roast beef is some of the pan or 
 dish gravy with a slice of Yorkshire pudding, 
 while for the shortribs a little grated horse- 
 radish and browned potatoes is best. 
 
 BOILED BEEF— The best pieces for boiling 
 are the flank, brisket, and short ribs, they 
 should be boiled tender with a flavoring of veg- 
 etables, and served with horseradish sauce, 
 cream sauce and carrots or suet dumplings, or 
 mixed vegetables such as carrot, turnip, onion, 
 cabbage and potato. 
 
 CORNED BEEF— Flank, short ribs, brisket or 
 rump of beef is put to soak in brine made of 
 twenty-five pounds of salt, twelve ounces of 
 rock saltpetre, two pounds of sugar and fifteen 
 gallons of water, all boiled together, skimmed, 
 cooled, the beef then put in with a cover on 
 and a weight on that to keep the beef under 
 the brine, (ready for use in a week to ten days). 
 
 BOILED CORNED BEEF— The meat put to 
 boil in cold water, scum taken off as it rises, 
 then allowed to simmer till tender (about four 
 hours) served in slices with cabbage, parsnips, 
 carrots, sometimes with all three vegetables; 
 also with suet dumplings; sometimes with a 
 brown sauce and garnished with brussels 
 sprouts. 
 
 SPICED BEEF— A whole flank of beef with 
 bones, gristle and inner skin removed, laid out 
 flat, outside skin downwards, then rubbed with 
 a mixture of salt, ground pepper, mace, allspice, 
 cloves and ginger; rolled up and tied, then put 
 to soak for ten days with some pickle from the 
 corned beef brine to which is added whole 
 cloves, peppers, allspice and bay leaves. When 
 to be cooked, it is taken from the pickle, wiped 
 dry, dipped in fat that is near cool so as to take 
 on a good coating, then rolled in a dough made 
 of plain flour and water, placed in a medium 
 oven and slowly baked (five to six hours). If 
 to be served hot, cut in slices and serve with 
 piquante sauce and garnish with small cut vege- 
 tables. If to be served cold, as is generally 
 done, the dough is left on till thoroughly cold, 
 or till to be served; even for a month it will 
 not spoil if the dough is not disturbed. Served 
 cold in thin slices garnished with pickles. 
 
 ALL SALT, CORNED OR SMOKED MEATS 
 IF SIMMERED TILL DONE, INSTEAD 
 OF QUICK BOILING, and allowed to cool in 
 the water they were simmered in, will be found 
 always more juicy and tender, and capable of 
 longer keeping. 
 
 DRIED BEEF— The thick flank is the part gen- 
 erally used; divided lengthwise in its natural 
 section, it is put in a pickle of salt, saltpetre, 
 sugar and molasses for two weeks, then hung 
 up and smoked like hams, (also called smoked 
 beef). 
 
 CHIPPED BEEF IN CREAM— Very thin slices 
 or shavings of dried beef, blanched, drained, 
 and mixed into cream sauce or reduced cream. 
 
 SCRAMBLED BEEF WITH EGGS— Very thin 
 slices of dried beef, again cut into strips like 
 short matches, blanched, drained, mixed with 
 beaten eggs and a little milk, scrambled around 
 in a pan with a little butter till eggs are set, 
 served either plain, or on toast. 
 
 FRIZZLED BEEF ON TOAST— Very thin sli- 
 ces of dried beef, blanched, drained, then 
 tossed with frothing butter over a quick fire; 
 served on toast. 
 
 SMOKED BEEF WITH SPINACH — Dried 
 beef put to boil in cold water, scum taken off 
 as it rises, then simmered till tender; served in 
 slices on a bed of spinach. 
 
 SMOKED BEEF SANDWICHES — Very thin 
 slices of dried beef placed on thin slices of but- 
 tered brown bread, rolled up like fingers. 
 
 BRISKET OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
 — Lean brisket of beef boned, placed in sauce- 
 pan with carrot, onions, turnip, celery, parsley, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 thyme, bay leaves, whole cloves and mace, 
 covered with stock, saucepan cover put on, 
 simmered till tender, taken up and placed on 
 baking pan, little gravy poured over, put in 
 quick oven till gravy has glazed the meat; 
 served in slices with glazed vegetables and 
 brown sauce. 
 FLANK OF BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE— Lean 
 flank of beef that has been in corned beef brine 
 for a few days, is washed, then put to boil in 
 cold water with carrots, onions, and celery; 
 after coming to the boil, skimmed, then sim- 
 mered till tender, taken up and glazed in oven 
 like the preceding, served in slices with a suet 
 dumpling, brussels sprouts, shaped piece of 
 carrot and turnip, a boiled onion, and some 
 piquante sauce poured around. 
 GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH MACAR- 
 ONI — Lean short ribs of beef larded through 
 the lean with seasoned strips of larding pork; 
 put in sauce pan with carrot, onion, celery, 
 parsley, whole cloves and mace with a little 
 garlic, covered with consomme and sherry wine, 
 cover put on, then simmered till tender, meat 
 then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed, 
 and reduced, half of which is taken to moisten 
 some boiled and drained macaroni, mixed with 
 grated Parmesan cheese. The beef served in 
 portions, garnished with the macaroni, and a 
 spoonful of the remaining glaze poured over 
 the meat, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la 
 PIEMONTAISE). 
 GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES — The lean short ribs of beef cooked 
 same as in the preceding receipt, served in por- 
 tion pieces, garnished with glazed shapes of 
 carrot, turnip, onions and artichokes, with a 
 little of the glaze poured over the meat, (called, 
 BRAISED BEEF a la BOURGEOISE). 
 GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH POTATO 
 CROQUETTES — Lean short ribs of beef 
 larded through the lean with strips of seasoned 
 larding pork; put in a sauce pan with a few 
 shallots, half a cup of fresh grated horseradish, 
 parsley and green onions, the meat barely cov- 
 ered with consomme to which is added a bottle 
 of Rhine wine, then simmered till tender and 
 glazy; when done, meat taken up, the liquor 
 strained and skimmed, little red currant jelly 
 and grated orange rind added to it and reduced; 
 the meat served in portion cuts, with a little of 
 the glaze poured over, and garnished with po- 
 tato croquette mixture rolled into small balls, 
 dipped in beaten eggs, then in flour and fried 
 very quickly in hot fat (called, BRAISED 
 BEEF a la BADEN-BADEN). 
 BRAISED BEEF, GERMAN STYLE — A top 
 sirloin of beef larded slantwise with strips of 
 seasoned larding pork, put in sauce pan with 
 carrot, onions, celery, parsley, bay leaves and 
 a few caraway seeds, barely covered with stock 
 and simmered till tender and glazy, then taken 
 up, the liquor strained, skimmed and reduced 
 
 to glaze, the meat served in slices with a little 
 of the glaze and garnished with sauerkraut and 
 small shaped potatoes boiled and sprinkled 
 with parsley butter (called, BRAISED BEEF 
 al'ALLEMANDE.) 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF, GARNISHED 
 — The braised sirloin of the preceding, but the 
 caraway seeds omitted in the seasonings; when 
 done is served in slices and garnished with 
 stoned olives, mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs 
 and kernels, green peas and small pieces of 
 sweetbreads, all made hot in the glaze with the 
 addition of a little Espagnole sauce (called, 
 BRAISED BEEF a la FINANCIERE). 
 BRAISED BEEF WITH RAVIOLIS— Top sir- 
 loin of beef larded, put in sauce pan with car- 
 rot, onions, celery, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, 
 allspice, garlic, claret wine and enough con- 
 somme to barely cover the meat, simmered till 
 tender and glazy, taken up, liquor strained, 
 skimmed and reduced to a glaze; meat served 
 in slices with some of the glaze and garnished 
 with small molds of boiled macaroni sprinkled 
 with Parmersan cheese and small raviolis, 
 (called, BRAISED BEEF a la MILANAISE). 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH QUE- 
 NELLES — -Top sirloin larded and braised with 
 vegetables, spices and consomme; served in 
 slices and garnished with a ragout of small 
 quenelles of poultry or game, cockscombs and 
 kernels, and slices of braised poultry livers 
 (called, BRAISED BEEF a la RICHELIEU). 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS — Top sirloin larded and braised with 
 vegetables, spices and consomme; meat taken 
 up when done, the liquor strained and skimmed, 
 sherry wine and Espagnole sauce added to it; 
 meat served in slices, garnished with fried 
 mushrooms, and sauce poured around. 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUF- 
 FLES — Top sirloin larded and braised, meat 
 taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- 
 med, Madeira wine added to it and reduced; 
 meat served in slices, garnished with a ragout 
 of truffles, diced sweetbreads, and small veal 
 quenelles (called, BRAISED BEEF a la GOD- 
 ARD). 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH RICE CRO- 
 QUETTES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
 meat taken up, liquor strained and reduced to 
 a glaze, meat served in slices with some of the 
 glaze poured around, and garnished with small 
 croquettes of rice that have been seasoned with 
 savory herbs and meat glaze, (called, BRAISED 
 BEEF a l'ORSINI). 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH SPRING VEGE- 
 TABLES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
 taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed 
 and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices 
 with it, and garnished with glazed carrot, onion, 
 brussels sprouts and red or green cabbage, 
 (called, BRAISED BEEF a la FLAMANDE) 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED PO- 
 TATOES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
 taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed, 
 and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices 
 with it, and garnished with potatoes that have 
 been cut out with the largest size potato scoop, 
 centre taken out of the potatoes with a column 
 cutter, blanched, drained, the holes filled with 
 a savory forcemeat, then baked till done and 
 brown with butter, (called, BRAISED BEEF 
 alaBIGNONNE). 
 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH HORSERADISH 
 — Top sirloin larded and braised, taken up 
 when done, the liquor strained, skimmed and 
 added to it is Espagnole sauce, red currant 
 jelly, horseradish, grated lean ham, port wine 
 and Harvey sauce; it is then rapidiy boiled 
 down to glaze; meat served in slices with some 
 of the sauce, and garnished with steamed arti- 
 choke bottoms, filled with grated fresh horse- 
 radish, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la NAPOL- 
 ITAINE). 
 
 BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED TO- 
 MATOES — Top sirloin larded and braised, 
 taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- 
 med, and mixed with Espagnole sauce, minced 
 fried mushrooms and sherry wine, then rapidly 
 reduced to a glaze; the meat served in slices 
 with some of the sauce, and garnished with 
 stuffed tomatoes and stuffed glazed onions, 
 (called, BRAISED BEEF a la PRO VENCALE) 
 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS — Tenderloin roasted with some sliced 
 vegetables in the pan, mushrooms lightly fried 
 in butter, then put into a rich brown sauce 
 containing sherry wine; the meat served in 
 slices and garnished with the mushrooms in 
 sauce. 
 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES - -Tenderloin trimmed, larded and 
 braised, the liquor strained, skimmed and 
 mixed with a rich brown sauce containing sherry 
 or madeira wine, reduced to a half glaze; car- 
 rots, turnips and celery are cut into neat pieces, 
 boiled separately in white consomme with a 
 little sugar and butter, when done strained and 
 mixed together with some French peas; meat 
 served in slices with some of the sauce and gar- 
 nished with the vegetables (called, FILLET 
 OF BEEF a la JARDINIERE). When the 
 vegetables are cut into minute squares and 
 diamonds it is (called, a la PRINTANIERE) 
 When the vegetables are scooped out with a 
 medium sized scoop it is (called, a la PARIS- 
 IENNE). When taken out of cans or cut in 
 very small fancy shapes and mixed with French 
 string beans cut small and flageolets it is (called 
 a la MACEDOINE). When carrots, turnips, 
 celery, leeks and onions are cut in strips like 
 matches, it is (called, a la JULIENNE). When 
 the Julienne vegetables are mixed with a Hol- 
 landaise, Allemande or yellow cream sauce it is 
 (called, a la NIVERNAISE). 
 
 [It is optional with the cook whether he adds 
 asparagus points and small flowerets of cauliflower 
 to the above groups of vegetables, it is still a 
 simple garniture of vegetables, appropriate to 
 either braised or roasted tenderloin, understood 
 by the guest when written in plain English, and 
 often uncalled for and consequently left over 
 when the "a la" is attached. Any of the fore- 
 going garnitures given to braised sirloins, apply 
 equally to braised tenderloins of beef and need 
 not be repeated under the heading of tenderloin; 
 also the vegetable garnitures above given are 
 equally appropriate to braised sirloins of beef.] 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, SAUCE BEAR- 
 NAISE — Tenderloin trimmed and larded is 
 either braised or roasted with vegetables; served 
 in slices with Bearnaise sauce. 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CUSTARDS 
 — Tenderloin larded and either braised or 
 roasted with vegetables, served in slices with a 
 half glaze containing Madeira or Malaga wine. 
 Garnished with slices or small molds of cus- 
 tards made of stirred yolks of eggs mixed with 
 very small cut vegetables of various colors and 
 a little consomme; this vegetable custard is 
 then poured into a pan or small mold and 
 placed in a pan containing water, then, with a 
 sheet of buttered paper over the mold, the pan 
 is put in the oven and the custard cooked, 
 (called, FILET a la TALLEYRAND). 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CEPES— 
 Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and either braised 
 or roasted with vegetables; the cepes drained 
 from the oil in the cans, cut into slices, lightly 
 fried in butter, taken up and added to a rich 
 brown sauce, served with slices of the meat. 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH ARTI- 
 CHOKES— Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and 
 either braised or roasted with vegetables, served 
 in slices, garnished with artichoke bottoms 
 filled with a ragout of truffles, mushrooms and 
 strips of smoked tongue (called, FILLET OF 
 BEEF a la BAYARD). 
 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH STUFFED 
 PEPPERS — Tenderloin larded and roasted, 
 served in slices with a little Andalusian sauce 
 poured around, and garnished with a stuffed 
 tomato at one end, and a stuffed green pepper 
 at the other, (called, FILLET OF BEEF a 
 l'ANDALOUSE). 
 TENDERLOIN STEAK, BORDELAISE — 
 Steak broiled and served with a brown Borde- 
 laise sauce, or with some finely minced shallots, 
 garlic and parsley fried in oil and butter, with 
 lemon juice added at the finish; garnished with 
 chips. 
 TENDERLOIN STEAK, PARISIAN POTA- 
 TOES— Steak broiled and served with some 
 maitre d'hotel butter poured over it and gar- 
 nished with Parisian potatoes. 
 TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE BEARNAISE 
 — Steak broiled and served with Bearnaise 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 13 
 
 sauce at one end, and Julienne potatoes with a 
 sprig of parsley at the other. 
 
 FILLETS OF BEEF WITH STRING BEANS 
 — Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
 served with French string beans made hot in 
 maitre d'hotel butter at one end, and a slice of 
 fancy toast at the other. 
 
 FILLETS OF BEEF, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
 — Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, 
 served with some provencale sauce poured 
 around the steak, and a small stuffed tomato at 
 each end. 
 
 TENDERLOIN STEAK SAUTEED, WITH 
 PEPPERS— Steak sauteed in butter; minced 
 green peppers fried in butter, drained, mixed in- 
 to brown sauce, served around the steak with a 
 stuffed green pepper at each end, and some 
 neat slices of pimentoes decorating the top of 
 the steak. 
 
 TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE PERIGUEUX 
 — Steak broiled, served with sauce perigueux 
 poured around it, top of steak decorated with 
 slices of truffles, a few chip potatoes at one end 
 of the dish, and a fancy crouton with a sprig of 
 parsley at the other end. 
 
 HAMBURG STEAK WITH ONIONS— Minced 
 raw beef and onions seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, mixed thoroughly and formed into fiat 
 balls or steaks, fried in butter till done, served 
 either plain or with a sauce. 
 
 TOMATOED HAMBURG STEAK — Minced 
 raw beef and solid meat of the tomatoes sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, thoroughly mixed 
 and formed into steaks; either broiled or fried 
 in butter; served with tomato sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 SALISBURY STEAK WITH GRILLED PO- 
 TATOES — Minced raw beef seasoned with salt 
 and pepper made into form of steaks, either 
 broiled, or fried in butter; served garnished 
 with sliced broiled potatoes (plain or sweet) 
 and some maitre d'hotel butter on the steak. 
 
 SALISBURY STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS— 
 Prepared and cooked same as the preceding; 
 served with some fried mushrooms at one end 
 of the dish, and chip potatoes at the other. 
 
 ENGLISH BEEF SOUP— Pieces of raw beef 
 cut small, with carrots, turnips, onions and 
 celery cut in dice, placed in soup pot with 
 butter and lightly fried, flour then added and 
 stirred to form a roux, moistened with boiling 
 beef stock; when about half done, pearl barley 
 is washed and added to the soup, also some 
 whole allspice, peppers, cloves, thyme and bay 
 leaves tied in a piece of muslin; when the soup 
 is finished, the spices removed, seasoned with 
 Worcestershire sauce and chopped parsley. 
 SOME COOKS ARE IN THE HABIT OF 
 PUTTING TOMATOES IN THIS SOUP, 
 WHICH IS DECIDEDLY WRONG. 
 
 BEEF BROTH WITH CELERY— Into the soup 
 pot is placed plenty of roast beef bones and 
 clear gravy with slices of carrot, onions, roots 
 
 and trimmings of celery; filled up with strong 
 beef stock, simmered till done, strained and 
 skimmed; meanwhile celery cut in inch strips 
 like matches is fried lightly in butter, then sim- 
 mered till tender and added to the soup. 
 
 SCOTCH BEEF SOUP— Prepared exactly the 
 same as "English beef soup" above, except 
 using Scotch oatmeal (procurable anywhere) 
 instead of pearl barley, and adding Madeira 
 wine at the finish. 
 
 BEEF BROTH WITH RICE— Prepared as for 
 "beef broth with celery," but after the broth 
 is strained and skimmed, allowed to boil up 
 again, thickened lightly with corn starch, and 
 well washed boiled rice added with a seasoning 
 of walnut catsup. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLON WITH CRUSTS — Plenty 
 of cold roast beef bones and clear gravy put 
 into the soup pot with some chopped fresh beef, 
 NO SPICES, but a carrot and onion; filled up 
 with good beef stock, simmered for several 
 hours, then strained through a consomme cloth, 
 skimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 served with small toast. Also served plain in 
 cups with a thin slice of lemon. 
 
 OX TAIL, THICK— Prepare the "bouillon" 
 above; ox tails cut in slices half inch thick, 
 carrots and turnips cored out with large sized 
 column cutter and sliced to resemble the tails 
 but thinner, all placed with sliced onions in 
 soup pot and fried lightly with butter or beef 
 drippings, flour added to form a roux, moistened 
 with the boiling bouillon, simmered till done, 
 skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper, Worces- 
 tershire sauce and sherry wine. 
 
 OX TAIL CLEAR— Prepare the "bouillon" 
 above and place it on the fire with some trim- 
 mings of carrot, turnip, onions and celery, also 
 the thick and thin ends of the tails that have 
 been previously browned in the oven, simmered 
 till done, then strained and clarified, the middle 
 part of the oxtails cut in slices with carrot and 
 iurnip to match, boiled separately in consomme 
 till tender and glazy, added to the clarified 
 broth with sherry wine. 
 
 BEEF CROQUETTES WITH PEAS— A strong 
 roast beef gravy thickened with roux and sea- 
 soned with Worcestershire sauce is then reduced 
 till thick, cold roast or other cooked beef is cut 
 very small and stirred into the boiling sauce; 
 when thoroughly heated through it is turned 
 into a pan about an inch deep, smoothed with 
 a knife, covered with a sheet of buttered paper 
 and allowed to become cold, then divided into 
 pieces of the size required, rolled into finger 
 lengths, breaded and fried, served in twos laid 
 slantwise across the dish, seasoned green peas 
 placed between them, and mushroom sauce at 
 each end, with croquette frills stuck in the cro- 
 quettes if used. 
 
 BEEF COLLOPS WITH MUSHROOMS — 
 Cold cooked beef is trimmed and cut in circles 
 size of a dollar but thicker, made hot in a thick 
 
M 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 rich beef gravy; served overlapping each other 
 down the centre of the dish, with some fried 
 mushrooms in sauce down both sides, and a 
 fancy crouton at each end. This dish may also 
 be served with a garnish of green peas, kidney 
 beans, French string beans, mixed vegetables, 
 small quenelles or fancy potatoes. 
 BEEF CAKES WITH EGG— Cold cooked beef 
 minced and seasoned with salt and powdered 
 savory, moistened slightly with roast beef gravy, 
 made into cakes like Hamburg steaks, placed 
 in pan with a glazy gravy poured over them; 
 when thoroughly heated, served with a poached 
 egg on top, and some thick roast beef gravy 
 poured around. 
 BEEF CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE 
 — The "beef croquette" mixture above, when 
 cold formed in the shape of veal chops, using a 
 piece of macaroni to imitate the bone; when 
 shaped, rolled in flour, then dipped in beaten 
 egg and fried in hot dripping; served with 
 Piquante sauce poured around. 
 BEEF RISSOLES— Cold cooked beef minced 
 three parts, grated bread crumbs one part, 
 mixed and seasoned with herbs, grated lemon 
 rind, salt and pepper, bound with raw yolks of 
 eggs, made into shapes and size of eggs, breaded 
 and fried; served with a mound of mashed po- 
 tatoes in the centre of dish, a rissole at each 
 end and side, with some thickened roast beef 
 gravy poured around, and a sprig of parsley put 
 into the potatoes. This dish may also be served 
 with kidney beans, green peas, French string 
 beans or mixed vegetables instead of the pota- 
 toes. 
 BEEF RISSOLETTES— Same as the preceding 
 but made smaller, served and garnished the 
 same way. 
 BEEF PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS— Cold 
 cooked tender beef cut into small dice, mixed 
 and made hot in a rich brown mushroom sauce, 
 filled into patty shells; served with some fried 
 mushrooms in sauce poured around. 
 BEEF STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE— 
 Pieces of raw beef cut about an inch square 
 three parts, button mushrooms (fresh or can- 
 ned) one part, mixed; baking dish lined on the 
 sides with short paste, meat and mushrooms 
 put in with a little flour, salt, pepper, a minced 
 onion and savory herbs, filled up with water to 
 just cover the meat, top crust put on, brushed 
 over with beaten egg and milk, put in slow oven 
 and gently baked. 
 BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PIE— Same as 
 the preceding, but omitting the mushrooms and 
 using scalded oyster liquor instead of water; 
 when to be served, a few blanched oysters kept 
 hot in a brown sauce placed with each portion. 
 BEEF STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE— Same as 
 "beef steak and mushroom pie" but using pieces 
 of blanched beef kidney instead of the mush- 
 rooms. 
 BEEF POT PIE— A rich beef stew (white or 
 
 brown) with vegetables, served with a dumpling 
 and sprinkled with parsley; or the stew placed 
 in a pan, soft dumpling mixture dropped in 
 pieces all over it, put in oven and baked; or 
 the stew left in the saucepan, dumpliugs put in, 
 cover put on, then gently simmered till dump- 
 lings are cooked. 
 BEEF PAUPIETTES, MUSHROOM SAUCE 
 — Thin slices of cold cooked beef, trimmed to 
 shape of envelope with the flap open, spread 
 with a cooked forcemeat composed of minced 
 bacon, chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, 
 salt, pepper and savory herbs, rolled up from 
 the broad end to the point, this pinned with a 
 toothpick, dipped in a thin batter and fried, 
 toothpick then removed; served with a rich 
 mushroom sauce poured around. 
 SCALLOPED BEEF WITH OYSTERS— Small 
 pieces of beef already made tender in a brown 
 stew seasoned with anchovy essence; oysters 
 scalded and mixed with the stew, placed in 
 scallop shells or dishes, sprinkled with bread 
 crumbs and Parmesan cheese, baked in oven 
 and served. 
 DEVILLED BEEF WITH OYSTERS— Cold 
 cooked tender beef cut in finger lengths an inch 
 wide and half inch thick, laid in a mixture of 
 salt, pepper, olive oil and Worcertershire sauce 
 for an hour, then lightly fried in butter, sprink- 
 led with parsley; served on slices of buttered 
 toast same size as the meat alternately with 
 broiled oysters, and Diable sauce poured 
 around. 
 CURRIED BEEF WITH RICE— Either raw or 
 cooked beef rolled in flour, then fried in butter 
 with minced onions; when lightly browned, put 
 in sauce pan with butter, flour and curry pow- 
 der, stirred and moistened with white stock, 
 boiled up, skimmed, then simmered with the 
 addition of a grated green apple, lemon juice 
 and a little chutney; when done, the meat re- 
 moved to another saucepan, and the sauce 
 strained over it; served with a border of dry 
 boiled rice. 
 MINCED BEEF WITH EGG— Either minced 
 or finely cut cold cooked beef seasoned with 
 savory herbs, salt and pepper is made hot in 
 rich roast beef gravy, just enough to moisten 
 the meat only being used; served with a fancy 
 border of mashed potatoes, the mince in the 
 centre, and a poached egg on top of the mince. 
 ROAST BEEF HASH— Minced onion lightly 
 fried in butter added to finely cut roast beef 
 two parts, and minced cold potatoes one part, 
 mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 powdered marjoram with a very little roast 
 beef gravy; the whole then tossed together, 
 placed in a pan and baked; or kept in a sauce- 
 pan over a slow fire till thoroughly heated; or 
 portions put into a frying pan, browned on both 
 sides, then formed into shape of an omelet; 
 served either with or without a fried or poached 
 egg, and with a crouton at ends of dish. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 i5 
 
 CORNED BEEF HASH— Prepared, (onion op- 
 tional) cooked, and served the same way as 
 "roast beef hash" above, but omitting the herb, 
 and using corned instead of roast beef. 
 SPICED JELLIED BEEF— Leg of beef freed 
 from all bone, cut up in two inch pieces, put to 
 boil in cold water, all scum taken off as it rises, 
 then gently simmered till the meat falls to 
 pieces; the liquor then strained from the meat, 
 put to boil again for half an hour with savory 
 herbs, salt and pepper, then strained, skimmed 
 from all fat, and while cooling a very little gel- 
 atine dissolved in it, the meat shredded and 
 added to it, poured into molds to get perfectly 
 cold and firm; served in slices garnished with 
 thinly sliced green pickles. 
 POTTED BEEF FOR SANDWICHES —Lean 
 roast or other cold cooked beef trimmings three 
 parts, cold corned lean beef one part, minced 
 fine, then pounded to a paste with two ounces 
 of cold boiled bacon to each pound of beef, 
 season with salt, pepper, ground mace and a 
 very little anchovy essence; when in paste form, 
 weigh it, then work in melted butter at the rate 
 of two ounces to the pound; after thoroughly 
 mixing, the paste is put away in jars with a 
 one-quarter of an inch of melted butter poured 
 over the top to seal them from air, (this mixture 
 kept sealed will keep many weeks without 
 spoiling.) 
 TOURNEDOS OF BEEF WITH OLIVES— 
 Cold cooked beef tenderloin trimmed to a pear 
 shape, slices of stale bread trimmed the same 
 way, both cut in slices half an inch thick, the 
 bread fried, the meat made hot in a Piquante 
 sauce; served on the toast, garnished with 
 slices of stoned olives, and the sauce poured 
 around. 
 MIROTON OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES 
 — Cold cooked tender beef cut in circular pieces 
 two inches in diameter and half an inch thick, 
 sliced onions par-boiled, then fried a golden 
 color in butter, the meat arranged in a pan and 
 just covered with a brown Italian sauce, the 
 onions spread over the whole, placed in oven 
 and baked till the sauce is reduced to a glaze 
 with a buttered paper over the onions; the cir- 
 cles, with the onions still on them, served gar- 
 nished with a mixture of small cut cooked vege- 
 tables in brown sauce, and a fancy crouton at 
 each end of the dish. 
 EMINCE OF BEEF WITH PEAS— Thin slices 
 of tender cooked beef about the size of half 
 dollars, made hot in a rich thickened roast oeef 
 gravy, served overlapping each other down the 
 centre of the dish and the green peas as a 
 border. 
 SCALLOPS OF BEEF, SAUCE TRIANON— 
 Evenly cut thin slices of cold cooked beef ten- 
 derloin sauteed with minced shallots in butter; 
 served overlapping each other down the centre 
 of dish, with a sauce Trianon down each side, 
 and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. 
 
 TENDERLOIN WITH BLOOD GRAVY — 
 Thick tenderloin steak placed between two in- 
 ferior steaks, then broiled till done, the tender- 
 loin served on a hot dish with the gravy of the 
 other two squeezed over it, garnished wit fancy 
 potatoes, sprigs of parsley, and slices of lemon, 
 (called, FILET a la CHATEAUBRIAND.) 
 
 SAUTE OF BEEF, TRUFFLE SAUCE— Small 
 tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, 
 served garnished with a crouton at each end of 
 dish, and truffle sauce poured around the steak, 
 with some slices of truffles on top (called, MIG- 
 NONS DE BOEUF AUX TRUFFES). 
 
 SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF WITH OY- 
 STERS — Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, 
 then fried in butter, large oysters scalded, then 
 tossed quickly over a fire in maitre d'hotel but- 
 ter containing a little anchovy essence; the 
 fillets served in the centre of the dish garnished 
 with the oysters, and their sauce poured around. 
 
 SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF, maitre d'hotel— 
 Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried 
 in butter, served garnished with fancy fried 
 potatoes, and maitre d'hotel butter poured over 
 the steak. These may also be garnished with 
 a mixture of small cut vegetables. 
 
 RAGOUT OF BEEF, CREOLE SAUCE — 
 Small pieces of beef simmered till tender in 
 tomato sauce containing chopped sweet pep- 
 pers, minced shallots, and a small quantity of 
 madeira wine and madeira sauce; served with 
 the sauce around, and croutons at end of the 
 dish. 
 
 BRAISED BEEF TONGUE WITH TOMA- 
 TOES — Fresh tongue soaked in cold water 
 over night, put on in boiling water and blanched 
 lor ten minutes, taken up, root and superfluous 
 fat trimmed away, placed in sautoir with carrot, 
 onions, celery, parsley, whole cloves and mace, 
 covered with stock, and gently simmered till 
 tender, then taken up and placed in another 
 saucepan, the braise strained, skimmed, re- 
 duced to a glaze with the addition of some 
 madeira sauce, this poured over the tongue; 
 served in slices with some sauce poured around, 
 and a stuffed tomato at each end. 
 
 SMOKED TONGUE WITH SPINACH— The 
 tongue soaked over night, put on to boil in cold 
 water and simmered for an hour, taken up, 
 placed in a sautoir with some vegetables and 
 covered with stock, then simmered till tender; 
 served in slices on a bed of spinach, with ma- 
 deira sauce poured around. 
 
 SMOKED TONGUE WITH SAUER KRAUT 
 — The tongue soaked over night, put on to boil 
 in cold water and simmered for an hour, taken 
 up, placed in saucepan with some well washed 
 sauer kraut, an onion stuck with cloves, carrot, 
 and a bunch of parsley, moistened with stock 
 to cover the whole, then simmered till tender; 
 served in slices on a bed of the kraut, and gar- 
 nished with glazed young carrots, with some 
 Poivrade sauce around. 
 
i6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CORNED BEEF TONGUE WITH SPINACH 
 — The tongue put to boil in cold water and 
 simmered till tender, taken up, skinned, and 
 kept in hot broth; served in slices on a bed of 
 spinach with some Espagnole sauce poured 
 around. Brussels sprouts, or a jardiniere or 
 macedoine of vegetables, form an appropriate 
 garniture to boiled corned tongue; also the 
 tongue served plain with either raisin or Hol- 
 landaise sauce. 
 
 BOILED BEEF HEART WITH HORSERA- 
 DISH — The heart washed and freed from blood, 
 boiled till tender in white stock with whole 
 mace, carrot and onions; served in slices with 
 horseradish sauce poured around, and garnished 
 with a small white turnip hollowed out, steamed, 
 and filled with grated horseradish, or the tur- 
 nip may be boiled with a little carmine in the 
 water, giving it a reddish color. 
 
 ROAST BEEF HEART, STUFFED— The heart 
 prepared and boiled till tender, as above; taken 
 up, drained, the cavities cut out and the space 
 filled with a sage and onion stuffing, placed in 
 pan with brown sauce poured over it and baked 
 till glazy; served in slices on a bed of the stuff- 
 ing with some sauce poured around, and gar- 
 nished with potato balls at one end and French 
 beans at the other. 
 
 BEEF KIDNEY SAUTE— The kidneys cut in 
 small pieces, put to boil in cold water, when 
 blanched, poured into colander, washed and 
 drained, then lightly fried in butter, sprinkled 
 with flour, moistened with stock, simmered till 
 tender, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon 
 juice; served with a border of potatoes on the 
 dish, kidneys in the centre, sprinkled with 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 BEEF KIDNEY SOUP- -The kidneys cut small 
 and prepared the same way as "kidney saute." 
 The soup made of thin Espagnole, the kidneys 
 and their sauce added at the finish; served with 
 small toast. 
 
 BRAISED OX TAILS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 
 — The thick end of the tail is cut into portion 
 pieces and placed in saucepan with carrot, 
 onions, celery, bay leaves, thyme and parsley, 
 covered with stock and simmered till tender 
 and glazy, then taken up, the liquor strained, 
 skimmed and added to a Madeira sauce, poured 
 over the tails; served with a border of green 
 kidney beans, and a fancy crouton at each end 
 of dish. 
 
 HARICOT OF OX TAILS— The tails cut into 
 pieces at the natural joints, fried with onions 
 in a saucepan till onions are of a golden color, 
 flour added to form a roux, moistened with 
 stock, allowed to simmer for an hour, skimmed, 
 turnips and carrots cut about size of the joints 
 are then added, and simmered another hour, 
 then small potatoes of an even size are added; 
 when they are done, season with salt, pepper 
 and walnut catsup; served, the tails in the 
 
 centre of the dish, garnished alternately with 
 the vegetables, the whole sprinkled with chop- 
 ped parsley. 
 
 CURRIED OX TAILS WITH SPAGHETTI— 
 The tails cut into sections at the joints, fried 
 with onions in a saucepan till onions are of a 
 golden color, flour and curry powder added, 
 shaken together, then moistened with stock, 
 simmered till tender, meanwhile adding to the 
 sauce a grated green apple, juice of a lemon 
 and some chutney; when done, the tails taken 
 up into another saucepan and the sauce strained 
 over them; served with a border of boiled spag- 
 hetti cut in inch pieces, seasoned with Parme- 
 san cheese. 
 
 BEEF SAUSAGES — Lean and fat raw beef 
 trimmings two-thirds, soaked stale bread that 
 is squeezed dry one-third, the meat is put 
 through the chopping machine, then mixed 
 with the bread and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 sage, thyme and a little farina, the whole is 
 then put through the machine again; when it 
 has all passed through cold water is added to 
 the desired stiffness, the knife taken from the 
 machine, filler screwed on; the salted skins 
 having been softened in water, are blown and 
 drawn on to the filler, meat placed in the ma- 
 chine, the skins filled and tied. 
 
 SAUSAGE CAKES WITH POTATOES— The 
 sausage meat purchased or made as in the pre- 
 ceding recipe, formed into round cakes, and 
 either fried or arranged in .a baking pan and 
 baked till done; served on a bed of mashed po- 
 tatoes with a little brown gravy poured around. 
 
 BEETS — -Are of three colors and kinds red, white 
 and yellow; the white is mostly used in produc- 
 ing beet sugar, the red for culinary purposes, 
 and the yellow for feeding cattle. 
 
 BEET GREENS— The leaves of the young beets 
 are washed, put to boil in boiling salted water, 
 containing a small piece of common washing 
 soda; when done, they are strained, pressed, 
 cut up fine, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 butter; served as a vegetable, or after being 
 pressed they may be rubbed through a fine 
 sieve, and the puree thus obtained, seasoned 
 and served the same as spinach. 
 
 PICKLED BEETS — The small smooth beets 
 washed and boiled till tender, skinned, cut in 
 thin slices, placed in a crock, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, sugar, bay leaves, and covered 
 with vinegar. 
 
 BOILED BEETS IN BUTTER SAUCE— Small 
 new beets washed and boiled till done, skinned, 
 cut in sections like those of an orange, placed 
 into the serving crock, and a sauce composed 
 of water, butter, salt, white pepper and vine- 
 gar, thickened with flour poured over them. 
 
 BEETS FOR GARNISHING— The pickled beets 
 above left whole and cut into the form of flow- 
 ers, etc., or the slices cut or stamped with fancy 
 cutters. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 17 
 
 BEET AND POTATO SALAD— Small balls of 
 cooked beets placed in tarragon vinegar; small 
 balls of boiled potatoes placed in Ravigote 
 sauce; served by arranging them alternately on 
 the dish. 
 
 BEET AND EGG SALAD— Slices of pickled 
 beetroot and hard boiled eggs, arranged alter- 
 nately around a dish, with some pickled white 
 onions in the centre; served with cream salad 
 dressing. 
 
 BEARNAISE — Name of a sauce used with steaks 
 and entrees, composed of minced shallots 
 braised with tarragon vinegar, to which is 
 added a thin veloute sauce, then some beaten 
 yolks of eggs, continually stirred over the fire 
 till like custard, removed, melted butter then 
 beaten in at the rate of three ounces to the pint, 
 seasoned with lemon juice and red pepper, 
 strained, finished by adding chopped parsley 
 and tarragon leaves. Some cooks omit the 
 veloute sauce, and use only butter and egg 
 yolks, thus making a kind of butter mayonnaise, 
 that will very readily disintegrate if allowed to 
 keep hot. 
 
 BECHAMEL — Name of a white sauce composed 
 of reduced chicken broth with some essence of 
 mushrooms, an equal quantity of rich milk or 
 cream, boiled up, thickened with flour and 
 butter, seasoned with salt, lemon juice and 
 grated nutmeg, then strained for use. 
 
 BENEDICTINE — The name of a liqueur used 
 as a cordial, as a flavoring to sauces and con- 
 fectionery, in making punches and other drinks; 
 it resembles "yellow chartreuse" in flavor and 
 appearance, is made principally at the Abbey 
 of Fecamp in Europe. 
 
 BISQUE — The French term given to soups made 
 of a thick puree principally of shellfish and 
 game. 
 
 BISQUE OF CRABS— Half a pound of rice 
 boiled to each gallon of soup; when done add 
 half a pound of crab meat to each gallon, (good 
 crab meat is obtainable any time of the year in 
 the form of "McMenamin's canned deviled crab 
 meat"), then rub the whole through a fine sieve 
 adding a little melted butter and a seasoning of 
 nutmeg. Make the stock of thin veloute, add 
 the rice and crab puree, bring to a simmer, 
 then add sliced okras, minced red and green 
 peppers, sliced tomatoes, season with marjoram, 
 thyme, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer 
 slowly for one hour and serve. 
 
 BISQUE OF CRAYFISH— Use all crayfish if 
 you can get them; if not, get a dozen or two, 
 which boil in a little water containing salt, 
 whole peppers, parsley and onions, cook them 
 twenty minutes, drain, cool, pick out meat from 
 tails and claws, throw away the intestines, 
 pound the rest, shells and head, also some 
 boiled fish, lobster and yolks of hard boiled 
 eggs to a paste, adding some melted butter; 
 boil this paste with a little veal stock for an 
 hour till dry, then rub it through a sieve, add 
 
 to it the required amount of good white broth, 
 bring to a boil, add the meat cut up from the 
 tails and claws, a little lobster coral and serve 
 with small toast. 
 
 BISQUE OF HERRING— Equal parts of fresh 
 and smoked herrings are boned, skinned and 
 boiled with fresh or canned lobster in seasoned 
 fish stock; when done, it is rubbed through a 
 sieve; the puree then added to a clarified fish 
 broth; served with small quenelles of fish and 
 small toast. 
 
 BISQUE OF PRAWNS (OR SHRIMPS)— Made 
 the same as "Bisque of crayfish" except using 
 all prawns or shrimps. 
 
 BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Meat of fresh boiled 
 lobsters cut into small squares, the tough parts 
 with the shells and claws boiled for twenty 
 minutes longer, the coral dried in a slow oven, 
 the stock made of Bechamel sauce thinned with 
 the water the fish were boiled in, the coral 
 then rubbed through a sieve and added to the 
 soup giving it a pinkish appearance; finished 
 by adding the squares of meat and some small 
 quenelles of lobster. 
 
 BISQUE OF OYSTERS— Scalded oysters and 
 boiled rice in equal bulk rubbed through a 
 sieve, added to a thin cream of oyster soup, 
 flavored with mace rnd bay leaves. 
 
 BISQUE OF SALMON— Cooked salmon rubbed 
 through a sieve added to stock composed of 
 equal parts of court-bouillon and veloute sauce, 
 boiled up, seasoned, finished with chopped 
 parsley and Sauterne wine. 
 
 BISQUE OF PLOVERS— The plovers braised 
 for an hour in madeira sauce, taken up and 
 pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; boiled 
 farina, enough to thicken the quantity of the 
 soup, is rubbed through a sieve, the two purees 
 then added to a game stock, boiled up, skimmed, 
 seasoned, finished with port wine. 
 
 BISQUE OF PARTRIDGE— Braised or roast 
 partridge meat pounded and rubbed through a 
 sieve with white bread crumbs and a puree of 
 chestnuts, the whole then added to a game-flav- 
 ored stock, boiled up, skimmed, seasoned, fin- 
 ished with port wine. 
 
 BISQUE OF TERRAPIN — Terrapin shells, 
 heads and trimmings simmered in consomme 
 for four hours, strained, the meat rubbed 
 through a sieve and put back into the strained 
 stock with some parsley, thyme, cloves, mace, 
 bay leaves, whole peppers and minced onions, 
 all tied in a muslin bag, brought to a boil, 
 skimmed, an equal quantity of veloute sauce 
 added, simmered for a few minutes, finished by 
 the addition of some boiling cream. 
 
 BISQUE OF JACK RABBIT— The rabbit cut 
 up and braised with spices and vegetables in 
 consomme till tender, then pounded and rubbed 
 through a sieve, the braise strained, the puree 
 put back into it, boiled up, skimmed, equal 
 volume of thin veloute sauce added to it, sea- 
 
i8 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 soned, finished with sherry wine, and served 
 with some small quenelles of rabbit. 
 
 BLANCH OR BLANCHED— Foods placed to 
 boil in cold water, removed after coming to the 
 boil, poured into a colander and well washed; 
 and in the case of almonds, etc., the skins are 
 then easily removed. 
 
 BLANC MANGE— Milk put to boil, containing 
 sugar, grated orange rind, and a few bitter al- 
 monds; when boiled, strain into another sauce- 
 pan, boiled up again, then thickened with corn 
 starch, and poured into molds, the bottoms 
 and sides of which may be decorated with crys- 
 tallized fruits. After the blanc mange is made 
 it may be made into "ribbon cream" by separ- 
 ating it into four vessels, coloring one green 
 and flavoring it with pistachios, another red 
 with a rose flavor, another with some boiling 
 chocolate; when filling the molds, the white is 
 placed first and the chocolate last. 
 
 BLANQUETTE — A term often used in describ- 
 ing a white fricassee of white meats, such as 
 sweetbreads, veal, animal brains, spring lamb, 
 rabbit, chicken, etc., etc. 
 
 BLACKBERRIES — Also called "dewberries," 
 a fruit of the raspberry species, used as a table 
 fruit, preserves, made into brandies and 
 cordials. 
 
 BLACKBERRIES WITH CREAM— The ber- 
 ries picked over, served in dishes with cream 
 and powdered sugar. 
 
 BLACKBERRY PUDDING— Picked over black- 
 berries 3 quarts, flour 2 pounds, baking soda 
 one ounce, New Orleans molasses one quart, 
 little salt, the whole mixed together without 
 water, put into molds, cover tied on, boiled 
 three hours. Served with sauce DOREE com- 
 posed of half pound of butter beaten till creamy 
 with half pound of powdered sugar, placed 
 over the fire and two beaten yolks of eggs 
 stirred in; when thick, work in half a pint of 
 brandy, and season with grated nutmeg. 
 
 BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE— Molds or pans 
 lined with slices of buttered bread, sides and 
 bottoms, then filled with picked over berries, 
 seasoned with sugar, covered with slices of 
 buttered bread, sprinkled with sugar, slowly 
 baked till brown and glazy; served with fruit 
 sauce. 
 
 BLACKBERRY TARTLETTES— Small fancy 
 molds lined with puff paste with a crimped 
 edge, filled with a dry compote of blackberries; 
 baked; when done, the centre decorated with 
 piped meringue. 
 
 BLACKBERRY COMPOTE— The picked over 
 berries put into a boiling syrup and simmered 
 till tender; served in small croustades of sweet- 
 ened rice. 
 
 BLACKBERRY PIE— Pie plates lined with pie 
 paste, berries mixed with sugar and a dusting 
 of flour, the plates filled, little baking soda 
 sprinkled over the fruit to prevent the juice 
 
 running out, top cover placed on, washed over 
 with pie wash, baked, served with small pieces 
 of cheese. 
 
 BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE— Two sheets of 
 short paste, spread between with the fruit taken 
 from a compote, the upper sheet spread with 
 whipped cream and decorated with some fresh 
 berries. 
 
 BLACKBERRY JAM— Fresh picked over ber- 
 ries mixed with ten ounces of sugar to each 
 pound of fruit, gradually brought to a simmer, 
 then allowed to cook till fairly thick, or till it 
 sets when dropped on a cold dish. 
 
 BLACKBIRDS— Can be obtained nearly all the 
 year round of the New York and Chicago game 
 and poultry merchants; they are very cheap 
 and make useful entrees. 
 
 BLACKBIRDS BROILED ON SKEWERS, 
 (en brochette) — The birds drawn, wiped, picked, 
 and wrapped round with a very thin slice of 
 bacjn, run on skewers, broiled, served on toast, 
 garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. 
 
 COMPOTE OF BLACKBIRDS — The black- 
 birds picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, then 
 quickly browned with butter in a hot oven, 
 taken up, placed in a game sauce and simmered 
 till tender; served in croustades with some 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 SALMIS OF BLACKBIRDS— The blackbirds 
 picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, quickly 
 roasted, then placed in a game sauce with some 
 mushrooms and stoned olives; when done, 
 served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 
 and the sauce poured over the birds; garnish 
 with the mushrooms and olives. 
 
 BLACKBIRD PIE — The blackbirds picked, 
 drawn, wiped and stuffed with breadcrumbs 
 mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, nut- 
 meg and eggs, trussed, quickly made brown in 
 the oven, placed in pie dish, covered with game 
 sauce and some sliced hard boiled eggs, cov- 
 ered with pie paste and baked. 
 
 BLACKBIRDS IN POTATOES— The blackbird 
 picked, drawn, wiped and an oyster placed in- 
 side, trussed, quickly browned in the oven with 
 butter. Evenly peeled potatoes (Irish or sweet) 
 split in halves lengthwise, hollowed out, the 
 bird placed in, tied with string, baked and 
 basted with butter; when the potato is done, 
 so is the bird; served with game sauce poured 
 around, and fancy croutons at ends. 
 
 BLACKFISH— A black skinned fish of the perch 
 species, found plentifully South. 
 
 FRIED BLACKFISH WITH BACON — The 
 fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in flour; 
 the bacon fried; the fish then fried in the 
 bacon fat; served with a slice of the bacon, 
 garnished with chip potatoes, parsley, and a 
 slice of lemon. 
 
 BROILED BLACKFISH WITH PARSLEY 
 BUTTER — The fish scaled, trimmed, scored, 
 brushed with melted butter, seasoned, rolled in 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 19 
 
 flour, brushed again with butter and broiled; 
 served with maitre d'hotel butter poured over 
 the fish, and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 
 BLACKFISH SAUTE WITH FINE HERBS— 
 The fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in 
 flour, sauted in butter, then placed in another 
 sautoir containing fines herbes sauce, simmered 
 for a few minutes, served with some of the 
 sauce poured around, and garnished with Par- 
 isienne potatoes. 
 
 BAKED BLACKFISH, OYSTER SAUCE— The 
 fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, placed in a 
 baking pan, brown oyster sauce strained over 
 the fish, baked to a glazy appearance; served 
 with a brown oyster sauce poured over the fish, 
 and garnished with small potato croquettes. 
 
 BOILED BLACKFISH, ITALIAN SAUCE— 
 The fish scaled, trimmed and put to boil in 
 boiling water containing an onion stuck with 
 cloves, slices of carrots, salt, bay leaves and a 
 little vinegar, simmered till done; served with 
 a white Italian sauce, and garnished with quart- 
 ers of small potatoes sprinkled with parsley. 
 
 BLACKDIVER— Name of a wild duck held in 
 great esteem by epicures, is at its best in the 
 form of salmis, or braised and served with a 
 little grated chocolate dissolved in the sauce. 
 
 BLACK COCK— Often seen on "bills of fare" as 
 Coq de Bruyere, Heath fowl, Black game and 
 Black grouse. 
 
 BRAISED BLACK GROUSE— The bird picked, 
 singed, drawn and wiped, the breast larded 
 with thin strips of seasoned larding pork; 
 placed in a saucepan with some bacon trim- 
 mings, carrot, onions, whole cloves and peppers, 
 moistened with a game sauce and a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar, simmered in the oven till 
 tender; when done taken up, the braise strained 
 Burgundy wine added to it, then reduced; the 
 bird served with some of the sauce poured over 
 it, and garnished with small sausage balls. 
 
 BROILED BLACK COCK WITH JELLY— 
 The young birds picked, singed, drawn and 
 wiped, split down the back, backbone and breast 
 bone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 brushed with butter, broiled; served on toast 
 with a sauce made of jelly and butter melted 
 and beaten together, poured over the bird, a 
 little currant jelly served separate, garnished 
 with chip potatoes, and a sprig of parsley. 
 
 SALMIS OF HEATH FOWL— The birds picked, 
 drawn, singed and wiped, disjointed, roasted 
 lightly; placed in a saucepan with game sauce, 
 made from the head, feet, liver, heart, neck 
 and gizzard; simmered till tender, seasoned 
 with sherry wine and essence of mushrooms; 
 served with some of the sauce poured over the 
 bird, and garnished with fried button mush- 
 rooms. 
 
 ROAST BLACK GAME, BREAD SAUCE— 
 The bird picked, drawn, singed, wiped and 
 trussed, roasted with a slice of bacon tied over 
 
 the breast, when nearly done, the bacon re- 
 moved, the breast dredged with flour and 
 melted butter, then browned; served with bread 
 sauce, and some of the gravy poured around. 
 
 BLACK PUDDING— Often seen on the bill of 
 fare as ' 'Boudin Noir, " they are made of sheeps, 
 or pigs' blood and chopped suet, seasoned, 
 filled into intestines, smoked, boiled, and when 
 cold, served in thin slices as an appetiser. 
 
 BLOATERS — Are smoked herrings, and the best 
 are imported from "YARMOUTH" a sea port 
 city of England, which city has never found an 
 equal rival in this production. 
 
 TOASTED BLOATERS — The head removed 
 with the entrails without opening the fish, 
 which is done by cutting the neck across the 
 back and drawing the entrails with the gills, 
 they are then washed in cold water, wiped dry, 
 and slowly broiled; served with melted butter, 
 garnished with lemon and parsley. 
 
 BAKED YARMOUTH BLOATERS IN SAUCE 
 — The fish drawn, then blanched, taken up and 
 skinned, the flesh lifted off in fillets free from 
 bone, then laid in pan, and covered with a thick 
 anchovy sauce containing a little bloater paste, 
 sprinkled with grated cheese and bread crumbs, 
 baked; served garnished with fancy potatoes. 
 
 YARMOUTH BLOATERS SAUTES— The fil- 
 lets prepared as in the preceding, then lightly 
 fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, 
 sprinkled with chopped parsley; served on toast 
 garnished with lemon and parsley. 
 
 BLUEFISH — A great favorite and in good de- 
 mand in any form on the bill of fare, although 
 baked or broiled have the most calls; a six 
 pound fish cuts to best advantage for restaurant 
 use, cutting five good portions; a four to five 
 pound fish being too thin for restaurants, but 
 just the thing for a course dinner. 
 
 BLUEFISH STUFFED AND BAKED— The 
 fish scaled, trimmed, wiped dry and filled with 
 a stuffing composed of cooked veal two parts, 
 boiled bacon one part, and grated bread crumbs 
 one part, the meat chopped fine, then mixed 
 with the bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, marjoram, thyme, mace, and lemon 
 juice, mixed thoroughly and slightly moistened 
 with fish broth; when filled, the opening sewn 
 up, the fish dredged with flour and put in a pan 
 with carrot, turnip, onion, a few cloves, claret 
 wine and consomme; baked; when done, taken 
 up, and to the pan is added some Espagnole 
 sauce; boiled up, strained; served with some 
 of the sauce, and garnished with Duchesse 
 potatoes. 
 
 BLUEFISH STEAKS, ITALIAN SAUCE— The 
 fish cut into steaks, and arranged in a buttered 
 pan containing some minced shallots, white 
 wine and mushroom liquor, covered with a 
 sheet of buttered paper, baked; when done, 
 taken up, some Italian sauce strained into the 
 pan, boiled up, and strained back into a rich 
 
so 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Italian sauce; served with some of the sauce 
 poured over, and garnished with Hollandaise 
 potatoes. 
 
 BAKED BLUEFISH WITH TOMATOES— 
 The fish cut in portions, seasoned, dredged 
 with flour, placed in a buttered pan, to which 
 is added minced onions, tomato sauce, and a 
 can of tomatoes that have been strained from 
 their juice; baked; when done, served with 
 some of the tomatoes poured around, and gar- 
 nished with small potato croquettes. 
 
 BOILED BLUEFISH, SHRIMP SAUCE— The 
 fish cut in portions, put to boil in boiling fish 
 broth containing salt, peppers, cloves, carrot 
 and onion in slices, with a dash of vinegar; 
 when done, served with a shrimp sauce poured 
 around, and garnished with quartered steamed 
 potatoes sprinkled with maitre d'hotel butter. 
 
 BROILED BLUEFISH WITH ANCHOVY 
 BUTTER — The fish cut in portions, seasoned, 
 dredged with flour, brushed with butter, broiled; 
 when done, served with some anchovy butter 
 on top of the fish, and garnished with chip po- 
 tatoes, parsley, and a slice of lemon. 
 
 BAKED BLUEFISH WITH FINE HERBS— 
 The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredge with 
 flour, arranged in buttered baking pan, covered 
 with a fines-herbes sauce, baked; served with 
 some of the sauce poured around, and garnished 
 with potatoes chateau. Bluefish prepared as 
 in the recipe just given, may also be served and 
 baked with Piquante, Bordelaise and Tomato 
 sauces. 
 
 BLUEFISH SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE— 
 The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredged with 
 flour, fried in butter; when done, taken up, and 
 into the pan they were fried in, some butter 
 sauce is added, boiled up, and strained into 
 another sautoir containing minced fried shal- 
 lots, capers, grated lemon rind, and pounded 
 anchovies; boiled, skimmed, the fish served with 
 the sauce poured around, and garnished with 
 Conde potatoes. 
 
 BLUEFISH SAUTE WITH ANCHOVIES— 
 The fish cut into portions, seasoned, dredged 
 with flour, fried in butter, taken up; into the 
 pan is then put some minced shallots; when 
 browned, anchovy paste and lemon juice added, 
 with a little Bordelaise sauce, boiled up, 
 strained; served with some of the sauce, and 
 garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 STUFFED FILLETS OF BLUEFISH— The 
 fish filleted and cut in portions, seasoned, 
 dredged with flour, quickly broiled on the cut 
 side, the broiled part spread with a thick 
 veloute sauce containing grated ham, minced 
 fried shallots, mushrooms and chopped parsley; 
 when all are spread, placed skin side down in 
 a buttered baking pan, with a little white wine, 
 baked; served with parsley sauce poured around 
 and garnished with potato quenelles. 
 
 BAKED BLUEFISH IN CRUMBS— The fish 
 cut into portion pieces, seasoned, arranged in 
 
 a buttered baking pan, moistened with anchovy 
 sauce, sprinkled with grated bread crumbs and 
 melted butter, baked; served with anchovy 
 sauce, and garnished with Parisienne potatoes. 
 
 BAKED BLUEFISH, MATELOTE SAUCE— 
 The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, brushed with 
 butter, arranged in pan, moistened with claret 
 wine, baked; when done on one side, turned 
 over and browned on the other, then taken up, 
 and to the wine in the pan is added some Es- 
 pagnole sauce and mushroom liquor, boiled up, 
 strained, skimmed, finished with grated nut- 
 meg and anchovy butter, the fish served with 
 some of the sauce poured around, and garnished 
 with Victoria potatoes. 
 
 BOUCHEE — A French word which means 
 "mouthful;" it is used to designate certain 
 specimens of cookery, both savory and sweet, 
 that are filled into puff paste and sponge cake 
 patty cases, hence, a Bouchee is a small patty. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded, the 
 liquor made into a sauce, oysters cut into dice, 
 added to the finished sauce, seasoned with 
 lemon juice and anchovy essence, filled into 
 puff paste patty shells, and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF CHICKEN— Breast of chicken 
 (cooked) cut into dice, mixed into a rich veloute 
 sauce, made hot, filled into patty shells and 
 served. 
 
 BOUCHfiE OF GAME— Any cold cooked game 
 may be used, and if desired can be so named 
 instead of the word "game," the meat cut in 
 small squares, and made hot in a sauce approp- 
 riate to the game used, filled into small patty 
 shells and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF FOIE-GRAS— This is served 
 cold. The foie-gras is cut into small pieces, 
 put into patty shells with limpid aspic jelly, 
 and served when set. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF SWEETBREADS— The sweet- 
 breads broiled, cut into small squares, made 
 hot in a white Italian sauce, the warm patty 
 shells filled and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF LOBSTERS— Fresh boiled lob- 
 ster meat cut in dice, made hot in a Supreme 
 sauce, filled into the patty shells and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH RAGOUT— The patty shells 
 filled with a mixture of smoked tongue, breast 
 of chicken, truffles and mushrooms; all cut 
 small and made hot in a Supreme sauce, cover 
 put on and served, (called, BOUCHEES a la 
 REINE). 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH MARROW — The spinal 
 marrow of beef cut in pieces, cooked in a sauce 
 Albert, filled into the patty shells and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH GAME PUREE— Tlie patty 
 shells filled with a rich puree of any form of 
 game, highly seasoned, (called, BOUCHEES a 
 la ST. HUBERT). 
 
 BOUCHEE OF CRAYFISH TAILS— The meat 
 from the tails of fresh boiled crayfish, cut up 
 and made hot in a cream parsley sauce, filled 
 into the patty shells and served. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH SALPICON— Cooked poul- 
 try or game cut small, made hot in a rich sauce, « 
 filled into the patty shells and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH OX PALATES— The patty 
 shell filled with a mixture of small cut pieces 
 of braized ox palate and mushrooms, made hot 
 in Allemande sauce. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF SARDINES — The sardines 
 made into a paste with Gruyere cheese, salt, 
 pepper and chili vinegar, mix with a few scald- 
 ed oysters cut small, the patty shells filled and 
 served, garnished with hard boiled yolks of 
 eggs rubbed through a sieve, resembling ver- 
 micelli. 
 
 BOUCHEE WITH MUSHROOMS— Slices of 
 button mushrooms lightly fried in butter, then 
 put into a rich Madeira sauce, made hot, filled 
 into the patty shells, and the opening filled with 
 a cork made of a mushroom nicely glazed. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF REEDBIRD — The reedbird 
 boned, stuffed, braized with wine, taken up. 
 glazed, jointed, put in the patty shells, some 
 Perigueux sauce poured in and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF WOODCOCK— Snipe, Larks, 
 Ricebirds and Ortolans, may be prepared and 
 served same as the preceding. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF ANCHOVIES— Coiled anchov- 
 ies in oil, taken out and drained, Mayonnaise 
 sauce beaten with stiff aspic jelly and a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar, the anchovies dipped into it, 
 and filled into cold patty shells, the top then 
 decorated with a cover made of aspic jelly, and 
 served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF SOLE— The sole filleted and 
 braised, cut in small pieces, when cold, put into 
 the patty shells, limpid fish jelly poured in, the 
 top decorated with Montpelier butter and 
 served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF SALMON- -Cold cooked salmon 
 in flakes, mixed with Ravigote sauce, filled into 
 the patty shells, the top decorated with Mayon- 
 naise and studded with capers. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF ORANGES— The patty shell 
 used for sweet bouchees is made of a rich stiff 
 "lady finger mixture" forced out of a pastry 
 bag in rings one on top of the other to the de- 
 sired height, sprinkled with pink sugar, baked 
 and glazed, the oranges peeled and separated 
 in sections, then simmered in an orange syrup; 
 when done, taken up and drained, put into the 
 bouchees, the top decorated with a flavored 
 water icing(called, BOUCHEES a la SEVILLE) 
 
 BOUCHEES OF PLUMS— The shell made as 
 in the preceding, the plums peeled, stoned and 
 cut in slices, simmered in syrup, taken up and 
 drained, put into the bouchees, limpid sweet 
 jelly poured in; when the jelly is set, the top 
 decorated and served. 
 
 BOUCHEE OF PEACHES— Prepared the same 
 as the preceding, substituting peaches for 
 plums. Strawberries, cherries and red rasp- 
 berries may also be treated this way. 
 
 BOUDIN — The French name for a pudding made 
 
 of meats, game, poultry and fish, in the form 
 of cakes or sausages. 
 
 BOUDIN NOIR— Or black pudding, see (black 
 pudding). 
 
 BOUDIN OF VEAL— Finely minced veal and 
 bacon seasoned with aromatic herbs, then made 
 into small sausage shapes, poached in white 
 stock, served with a sauce Perigueux, (called, 
 BOUDIN DE VEAU). 
 
 BOUDIN OF RABBIT— Same as the preceding, 
 substituting rabbit for the veal; served with a 
 light game sauce, (called, BOUDIN DE LA- 
 PIN). 
 
 BOUDIN OF HARE— Same as the preceding, 
 substituting hare for rabbit, (called, BOUDIN 
 DE LIEVRE). 
 
 BOUDIN OF FOWL— Cold white chicken or 
 turkey meat pounded to a paste with a season- 
 ing of nutmeg, salt, red pepper, lemon juice 
 and herbs, the paste forced into a skin, plunged 
 into boiling white stock till thoroughly heated 
 through, taken up, served cold in slices alter- 
 nately with slices of black pudding, (called 
 BOUDIN BLANC). 
 
 BOULETTES OF GAME— The word boulette 
 signifies "ball" and is used very seldom, except 
 to describe a garnish. "Boulettes of potatoes" 
 are what is better known as potatoes Victoria. 
 Boulettes of game are made of a highly sea- 
 soned mince of cold game, breaded and fried. 
 
 BOUILLABAISSE — A national soup of the Latin 
 race, composed of pieces of fish (boned and 
 skinned), garlic, chopped parsley, bay leaves, 
 tomatoes, leeks, onions, lobster, savory herbs, 
 potatoes, olive oil and saffron, fried, then sim- 
 mered till done; served in platefuls with slices 
 of toast dried in the oven. 
 
 BROCHETTE — A skewer on which are threaded 
 small delicate meats, etc., to be cooked, and 
 served with or without the skewer; also used 
 by confectioners to thread fruit on before can- 
 dying them. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS— Oysters, bacon 
 and sweetbreads (optional), the bacon and 
 sweetbreads cut in slices same length as the 
 oysters, seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered 
 thyme and chopped parsley, the oysters and 
 sweetbreads dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled 
 in fresh grated bread crumbs, threaded alter- 
 nately on the skewer with the bacon; when full, 
 fried in hot fat, served with some heated to- 
 mato catsup, that is seasoned with anchovy 
 essence poured around, and garnished with 
 lemon and parsley, 
 
 BROCHETTE OF LAMB KIDNEYS — The 
 kidneys with the skin removed and split in two 
 without quite severing, threaded on the skewer 
 flat, quickly broiled for an instant over a hot 
 fire, then taken off and seasoned with salt, pep- 
 per and ground mint, dipped in veloute sauce, 
 then fresh grated bread crumbs, brushed with 
 melted butter and broiled over a slow fire till 
 
22 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 done; served with a sauce Colbert poured 
 around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF SPRING LAMB —Circular 
 steaks of the leg of raw lamb, one cutlet of the 
 leg making about three steaks, laid for an hour 
 in a mixture of minced shallots, chives, mint, 
 garlic, lemon juice, nutmeg, melted butter, salt 
 and pepper, then taken up, rolled in fresh 
 grated bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer, 
 broiled till done and served with Colbert sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF VEAL— Cold cooked veal and 
 boiled ham cut into even sized pieces, the veal 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered mar- 
 joram, threaded alternately on the skewer, 
 breaded, fried, served with white Italian sauce 
 poured around, and garnished with watercress. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF DUCK LIVERS— The liver 
 is par-boiled, then prepared and cooked the 
 same way as "chicken livers" following; served 
 with Bigarrade sauce poured around, and gar- 
 nished with water cress and lemon. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS— The 
 livers washed and dried, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, slices of bacon lightly broiled, then cut 
 in pieces same size as the livers, the skewer 
 threaded with them alternately; when all on 
 rolled in melted butter or olive oil, then in 
 fresh grated bread crumbs, broiled, served on 
 a slice of narrow toast with maitre d'hotel but- 
 ter poured over, and garnished with water 
 cress. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF GEESE LIVERS— The liv- 
 ers boiled in stock till done, then cut into slices; 
 smoked cooked tongue the tip end cut in slices 
 same size as the livers; both dipped in cooling 
 Perigueux sauce; when cold, threaded alter- 
 nately on the skewer, rolled in grated bread 
 crumbs, then breaded and fried, served with 
 Perigueux sauce poured around, and garnished 
 with water cress and lemon. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF TURKEY LIVERS — The 
 livers blanched, cut in slices, lightly sauteed 
 with finely minced shallots, garlic and chives, 
 taken up, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and lemon juice, threaded alternately on skewer 
 with pieces of half broiled bacon, dipped in 
 melted butter, then bread crumbs, beaten eggs 
 and bread crumbs again, broiled, served with 
 Hanover sauce poured around, and garnished 
 with watercress. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF EELS— The eels skinned 
 and cut into inch pieces, steeped for an hour 
 in equal quantities of olive oil and vinegar, 
 with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and thyme, 
 then placed on skewer alternately with bacon, 
 arranged on a baking pan with some of the 
 marinade poured over them; roasted for ten 
 minutes, taken up, drained, breaded, fried and 
 served with tartar sauce. 
 
 8R0CHETTE OF PIGS' KIDNEYS— The kid- 
 neys par-boiled, cut in slices, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and powdered sage; cold boiled 
 
 pickled pork cut in slices same size as the kid- 
 neys, threaded alternately on skewer, rolled in 
 olive oil, then breaded and fried; served with 
 Robert sauce containing a dash of anchovy 
 essence poured around, and garnished with a 
 small baked and glazed apple. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF MUTTON — Cutlets from 
 the leg or loin, cut into even sized pieces, sea- 
 soned with a mixture of salt, pepper, cinnamon 
 and powdered savory, threaded on skewer, ar- 
 ranged in baking pan, moistened with a thin 
 tomato sauce, roasted and basted with it; served 
 with tomato sauce poured around, and gar- 
 nished with chip potatoes. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS — Prepared and 
 served the same way as the recipe given for 
 "brochette of oysters." 
 
 BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS — The 
 sweetbreads soaked, blanched, then boiled till 
 tender with vegetables and spices, taken up, 
 drained, skinned, pressed till cold, cut in pieces, 
 then cut circular with the largest sized column 
 cutter; slices of cold cooked tongue the same 
 way; both dipped in cooling white Italian sauce; 
 when cold, rolled in fresh grated bread crumbs, 
 then threaded alternately on the skewer; when 
 full, breaded, fried, served with white Italian 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF SMELTS— A judicious way 
 of using up the small smelts; the fish wiped, 
 after entrails are drawn, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs and 
 fresh bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer 
 through the gills, fried in hot fat, taken up, 
 drained; served with or without tartar or to- 
 mato sauce, garnished with lemon and parsley. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS — The 
 brains soaked, skinned, washed, blanched in 
 boiling water containing a little vinegar, taken 
 up, drained, cut in even sized pieces; also 
 bacon cut the same size; the brains seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 
 chopped parsley, threaded on the skewer alter- 
 nately with the bacon, rolled in melted butter, 
 then in bread crumbs, broiled, served with 
 Ravigote sauce, and garnished with watercress 
 and lemon. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER — Cold boiled 
 lobster meat cut in pieces and marinaded in a 
 mixture of salt, pepper, nutmeg and Worces- 
 tershire sauce for an hour, then threaded on 
 skewer alternately with the large head of a 
 button mushroom, rolled in butter, then in 
 fresh bread crumbs, broiled, served with maitre 
 d'hotel butter mixed with anchovy essence 
 poured around, and garnished with parsley and 
 lemon. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF RABBIT— Raw young rab- 
 bit meat and cold boiled salt pork cut in even 
 sized pieces, the rabbit sauteed in butter with 
 fine herbs, taken up and threaded alternately 
 on the skewer with the salt pork, seasoned with 
 a mixture of salt, pepper and powdered herbs, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 23 
 
 breaded, fried, and served with brown Italian 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF TURKEY— Slices of light 
 and dark meat of cold cooked turkey, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cool- 
 ing Supreme sauce; when cold, rolled in bread 
 crumbs, then breaded and fried; served with 
 sauce Supreme. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF LAMB FRIES— Prepared, 
 cooked, and served the same way as the recipe 
 given for "brochette of calf's brains," tomato 
 sauce to be used instead of ravigote. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF SCALLOPS— The scallops 
 drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped 
 parsley, breaded, placed alternately on skewer 
 with pieces of bacon fried, served, with Alle- 
 mande sauce contaiinng a little lobster coral. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF REED BIRDS— The birds 
 picked, drawn, wiped, and trussed with the 
 head tucked under the wing, a small ball of 
 m&itre d'hotel butter and the liver of the bird 
 minced and put inside, threaded alternately on 
 the skewer with a piece of cold boiled bacon, 
 seasoned, broiled, served on toast and garnished 
 with parsley and lemon. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CRAYFISH TAILS— The 
 fresh boiled meat of the crayfish tails, prepared 
 and served the same way as the recipe given 
 for "brochette of lobster." 
 
 BRINE — A preserving and flavoring mixture of 
 salt, spices, saltpetre and water — is the best 
 thing to put meats into that are just on the 
 turn; after first washing them and rubbing 
 them over with powdered charcoal or borax, 
 and again thoroughly washing them. For mix- 
 ture see "corned beef." 
 
 BRIE — Name of a very rich cream cheese made 
 near Paris, France, is of a circular form, an 
 inch thick, wrapped in parchment paper, put 
 into thin wooden boxes and imported to this 
 country; it is, however, very much, and fairly 
 well imitated by our own cheese manufacturers. 
 
 BRANDY — A spirit distilled from wines, is clear 
 and sparkling. In the year 1878 the vineyards 
 of the Charente were devastated by the phyl- 
 loxera, causing the annual production, which 
 averaged 170,000,000 gallons, to fall in 1898 to 
 only 11,000,000; consequently, since 1878, only 
 a very small quantity of genuine brandy has 
 been shipped to this country, the bulk being a 
 blend of grain spirit flavored with brandy. An 
 oil distilled from brandy is used with a spirit 
 in producing an imitation that is sold as cook- 
 ing brandy. 
 
 BRANDY SAUCE— Water, lemon juice, sugar 
 and grated nutmeg brought to the boil, butter 
 and flour sizzling in another sauce pan, the 
 flavored water strained into it, stirring at the 
 same time, allowed to simmer for a few min- 
 utes, taken from the fire, and brandy to the de- 
 sired flavor added. 
 
 BREAD— A combination of flour, salt, sugar, 
 water and yeast, mixed, set to rise, kneaded, 
 
 risen again, molded, proved and baked. The 
 different kinds of bread on the market is legion, 
 and with all sorts of claims, principally for the 
 benefit of health and digestion, such as "whole 
 meal," "gluten," "aerated," "steamed," "die- 
 titic," "diabetic," "buttermilk," "dyspepsia," 
 etc., which argument may be based on sound 
 doctrine or not, at least, doctors, chemists and 
 anylists, are continually arguing the pro. and 
 con. of the different claimants as the following 
 quotation will show for itself. 
 
 WHITE VERSUS BROWN BREAD— There 
 appeared in the St. Bartholomew's Hospital 
 report a very interesting communication on the 
 relative digestibility of white and brown bread 
 by Drs. Lauder, Brunton and Tunnicliffe. 
 While the authors admit that, regarded from a 
 purely chemical point of view, the nutritive 
 value of brown bread is greater than white, 
 they maintain that this is not so when consid- 
 ered from the physiological side. The authors 
 point out that it is absurd to take the mere 
 chemical composition as an index of the value 
 of food stuff, as a stick of charcoal, the atmos- 
 pheric air, a little water, some sea salt, contain 
 all the elements of a typical diet. Hence, the 
 greatest importance attaches not only to the 
 composition, but to the ways in which the var- 
 ious constituents are combined so that they 
 can be readily and easily assimilated. The 
 conclusion that the authors come to is mainly 
 that, although brown bread, both on account 
 of its large percentage of mineral matters and 
 fat forming constituents, is chemically superior 
 to white bread, yet these constituents do not so 
 readily pass into the blood as in the case of 
 white bread, and that, weight for weight, white 
 bread is more nutritious than brown. In spec- 
 ial cases where there is a deficiency of mineral 
 matter, and especially in cases of growing 
 children, when large quantities of these are 
 required for production of bone and tissue, 
 brown bread may be useful, but even in these 
 cases, if these mineral salts, and especially 
 salts of calcium, are supplied by other means, 
 white bread is preferable to brown. 
 
 BRAINS — Of animals are esteemed by the cook 
 in producing delicate entrees, and are remuner- 
 ative to the proprietor on account of their small 
 cost. They must, before cooking, be thor- 
 oughly cleansed of the skin and blood that 
 covers them; they are easily digested, and fairly 
 nutritious. 
 
 SCRAMBLED BRAINS— Pigs, sheep, calf or 
 beef brains, as there is scarcely any difference 
 in the flavor, being all composed of the same 
 material, are cleansed, par-boiled in salted 
 water with a dash of vinegar, taken up, drained, 
 cut into small pieces, added to an equal volume 
 of beaten eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg, poured into a pan containing butter, 
 and scrambled around till set. Served on toast 
 (optional), garnished with croutons and parsley. 
 
24 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BRAIN FORCEMEAT — Cold boiled brains 
 minced, then pounded to a paste with flour, 
 egg yolks; seasoned with nutmeg, salt, pepper 
 and chopped parsley. 
 
 BRAIN CROQUETTES WITH PEAS— The 
 croquettes formed in cone shapes of "brain 
 forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with a frill 
 stuck into the croquette, and garnished with 
 green peas at the ends of the dish, with Alle- 
 mande sauce at side 
 
 BRAIN CUTLETS, VILLEROI SAUCE— The 
 cutlets size and shape of small lamb chops 
 made of "brain forcemeat" with a piece of 
 macaroni to represent the bone, breaded, fried; 
 served with Villeroi sauce poured around. 
 
 BRAIN CAKES WITH BACON— The cakes 
 size and shape of small codfish cakes, made of 
 "brain forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with 
 a slice of broiled bacon and Bechamel sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 ROAST BRAINS WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS 
 — Calf's brains par-boiled and trimmed, sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted 
 butter, then rolled in flour, quickly roasted and 
 basted with butter; served garnished with fried 
 balls of "brain forcemeat" and fines herbes 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 SCALLOPED BRAINS IN SHELL — Cold 
 cooked brains in slices, mixed with a white 
 Italian sauce, filled into scallop shells, sprinkled 
 with grated cheese and bread crumbs, baked, 
 served in the shells (called, CERVEAUX EN 
 COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 
 
 BRAINS AND MUSHROOMS IN CASES— 
 Cold cooked brains and button mushrooms cut 
 in neat pieces, tossed in butter over a quick 
 fire to color lightly, then moistened with Su- 
 preme sauce; served in fancy paper cases. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS AND TONGUE, MUSH- 
 ROOM SAUCE— The brains par-boiled and 
 trimmed, the tongues boiled, skinned, trimmed 
 and cut lengthwise, dipped in cooling Piquante 
 sauce; when cold, both breaded and fried; 
 served with mushroom sauce. 
 
 FRIED BRAINS WITH BROWN BUTTER— 
 The brains blanched and trimmed, seasoned, 
 brushed with butter, rolled in flour, dipped in 
 beaten eggs, then fried; served with brown 
 butter poured over them, made by melting 
 butter over a quick fire till it froths and browns, 
 then adding to it the juice of a lemon and some 
 finely chopped parsley (called, CERVEAUX 
 AU BEURRE NOIR). 
 
 FRIED BRAINS BREADED, TARTAR 
 SAUCE — The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
 masked with Tartar sauce, then breaded and 
 fried; served with Tartar sauce at the ends of 
 the dish, and Parisienne potatoes down the 
 sides. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, SAUCE VINAIGRETTE— 
 The brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till 
 done in white stock, served with Vinaigrette 
 
 sauce, and garnished with parsley. 
 
 BRAISED BRAINS WITH STUFFED TO- 
 MATOES — The brains blanched, trimmed, and 
 arranged in a sautoir with carrot, onion, pars- 
 ley, bay leaves and cloves, moistened with 
 white stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 
 paper, braised till done, taken up, the liquor 
 skimmed and strained into a Veloute sauce, re 
 duced, the brains served with some of the sauce 
 poured over them, and garnished with small 
 stuffed tomatoes. 
 
 BRAISED BRAINS, SAUCE REMOULADE— 
 The brains prepared and cooked the same way 
 as in the preceding recipe, with the addition of 
 a little white wine to the moistening stock; 
 when done, the braise skimmed, strained and 
 reduced to a glaze, then mixed into a hot Re- 
 moulade sauce; served with the sauce poured 
 over the brains, and garnished with fancy 
 croutons. 
 
 BRAISED BRAINS WITH MUSHROOMS— 
 The brains blanched, trimmed, and arranged 
 in a sautoir with slices of bacon, vegetables and 
 spices, moistened with white stock and juice of 
 a lemon, covered with thin slices of bacon, 
 braised till done, taken up, tke bacon cut in 
 pieces, the braise reduced to a glaze, and 
 strained over some button mushrooms and 
 small glazed onions, the brains sprinkled with 
 fried bread crumbs, and garnished with the 
 bacon, mushrooms and onions alternately. 
 
 BRAINS IN SAUCE POULETTE WITH RICE 
 — The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
 in poulette sauce, served with the sauce poured 
 over them and garnished with small timbales 
 of rice, with a small sprig of parsley stuck in 
 them. 
 
 BRAINS WITH SORREL, SAUCE RAVIGOTE 
 — The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
 till tender in white stock with the juice of a 
 lemon. Served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
 the brains masked with Ravigote sauce. 
 
 CREAMED BRAINS WITH KIDNEY BEANS 
 — The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered 
 in cream sauce till done; served masked with 
 the sauce and garnished with kidney beans 
 (flageolets) that have been sauteed in butter. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF BRAINS WITH ARTI- 
 CHOKES — The brains prepared and cooked 
 the same way as given for "braised brains with 
 stuffed tomatoes"; when done, the brains cut 
 in slices, mixed with the veloute sauce, filled 
 into paste croustades; served garnished with 
 artichoke bottoms spread with "brain force- 
 meat" and filled with small pieces of glazed 
 calf's tongue. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS— See 
 brochette dishes. 
 
 BRAINS WITH RICE, TURKISH STYLE— 
 Cold cooked brains worked into a creamy paste 
 with cream, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
 juice and nutmeg; the rice boiled in white stock 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 25 
 
 with salt, butter, pepper and cinnamon; served, 
 the rice in small molds, turned out onto the 
 dish, and masked over with brains, sprinkled 
 with finely chopped parsley or chervil. 
 
 BRAIN PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS— 
 Cold cooked brains cut in small dice with 
 mushrooms, made hot in Supreme sauce, filled 
 into patty shells, cover placed on and served. 
 
 SAVORY OMELET OF CALF'S BRAINS— 
 The brains prepared as in the preceding, the 
 omelet mixture made of beaten eggs, finely cut 
 chives, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the 
 omelet formed, enclosing some of the mixture; 
 served with more of the brains in sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS, PARSLEY SAUCE— The 
 brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till done 
 in white stock; served on a slice of toast, pars- 
 ley sauce poured over the brains and garnished 
 with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 BRAIN KROMESKIES, MADERIA SAUCE— 
 Slices of cold cooked brains dipped in glaze, 
 encircled with a very thin strip of cold boiled 
 bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped in bat- 
 ter and fried, the toothpick removed; served 
 with madeira sauce poured around. 
 
 BROILED BRAINS WITH PARSLEY BUT- 
 TER — The brains blanched, trimmed and cut 
 in slices, seasoned, broiled; served on toast 
 with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them 
 and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 
 
 BRAISE AND BRAISING— A term applied to 
 foods that are cooked by a top and bottom heat. 
 The pot or braiser has a cover that fits tightly 
 and a receptacle to hold lighted charcoal or 
 coke, so that the heat descends on top of the 
 foods. The general way of the average estab- 
 lishment, however, who, as a rule, are not sup- 
 plied with a braiser, is to take a shallow sauce- 
 pan or sautoir, into which is placed the foods, 
 together with onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaves 
 and whole cloves (and according to the food, 
 with other accessories, but the five mentioned 
 spices and vegetables are always included in a 
 braise) and moistened with stock or sauces, as 
 the recipe may require; the cover of the sautoir 
 is then put on and placed in the oven, so that 
 it gives an even heat, top, bottom and sides. 
 When the foods are cooked to requirement they 
 are taken up and the remaining liquor is called 
 BRAISE. Braising, besides imparting delicate 
 flavors to the foods thus cooked, is also an ex- 
 ceptional good way of making tough meats 
 tender, as the toughest parts of beef can be 
 made into fine entrees by braising them. See 
 braised dishes under heading of " BEEF." 
 
 BRUNOISE — Name given to a consomme with 
 small cut vegetables. See "consomme." 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS- -Called (CHOUX DE 
 BRUXELLES) are small sprouts that giow on 
 the stalks of cabbages. They are very green 
 and about the size of large olives when trimmed. 
 They make an excellent accompaniment to 
 
 boiled beef and form a part of many garnitures. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS BOILED— As a veg- 
 etable, trimmed, thoroughly washed, thrown 
 into boiling water containing salt and a small 
 piece of common washing soda, boiled till ten- 
 der with the saucepan lid OFF about fifteen 
 minutes, then turned into a colander, drained, 
 tossed with a little melted butter and served. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEES— Prepared, 
 boiled and drained as in the preceding, then 
 placed in a sautoir with butter and lightly 
 fried, seasoned with salt and pepper; served 
 either as a garnish or vegetable. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PARSLEY 
 BUTTER — Same as the preceding, but served 
 with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN CREAM— Prepared 
 and cooked the same as for "boiled" above, 
 then reheated in a good reduced cream (not 
 cream sauce); served as a vegetable. 
 
 OMELET WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS — 
 The above sprouts in cream, enclosed in a 
 savory omelet; served garnished with some of 
 the sprouts around the omelet and the cream 
 poured over them. 
 
 PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS — The 
 sprouts prepared as for " brussels sprouts 
 sautees"; after sauteeing they are rubbed 
 through a fine sieve, mixed with egg yolks and 
 butter, seasoned with salt and pepper; used as 
 a garnish or in a soup; if in soup, as follows: 
 the stock oi good veal or chicken, seasoned 
 with salt pork and vegetables, thickened lightly 
 with roux, strained, the puree then worked into 
 it. Served with small toast. 
 
 BUCK — The male deer. For dishes of Buck see 
 " venison." 
 
 BUCKWHEAT— A meal ground from the seeds 
 of buckwheat, principally used in culinary 
 forms for making batter cakes. For recipes 
 see heading of "batter." 
 
 BUISSON— A form resembling a bush; may be 
 made by taking two circular pieces of wood 
 one-half the diameter of the other, used for top 
 and bottom, then nailing strips of laths the de- 
 sired height, about half an inch apart, screwing 
 small hooks into the laths, the spaces between 
 filled up with bunches of parsley and boiled 
 crayfish or lobsters hanging by the tails from 
 the hooks. 
 
 BUTTER — Takes a very prominent part in cul- 
 inary matters, forms some special butters used 
 for garnishing and scarcely enters at all into 
 what are now known as 
 
 BUTTER CAKES— Composed of ten pounds of 
 flour, one ounce of soda, one ounce of salt 
 mixed together dry, then moistened with three 
 egg yolks, two ounces of melted butter and two 
 quarts of buttermilk; this is mixed and well 
 broken, then is added three quarts of butter- 
 milk and one quart of sweet milk, this brings 
 it to the consistency of biscuit dough; spread 
 out on table, let rest half an hour, then rolled 
 
26 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 out, let rest another half hour; again rolled out, 
 cut out with biscuit cutter, allowed to raise or 
 proof and baked on a griddle. 
 
 ANCHOVY BUTTER— Two parts of butter to 
 one part of anchovy essence, thoroughly mixed 
 with a little grated Parmesan cheese and seas- 
 oned with nutmeg, red pepper and a dash of 
 lemon juice. 
 
 CRAYFISH BUTTER —Crayfish shells and 
 claws slowly dried in the oven with a little 
 lobster coral, pounded to a paste, then put with 
 butter and simmered for a few minutes, rubbed 
 through a fine sieve into cold water, then gath- 
 ered for use. 
 
 LOBSTER BUTTER— The head and coral of 
 boiled lobster with its equal weight of butter 
 pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy 
 essence and a little dry mustard, then rubbed 
 through a fine sieve; gathered for use. 
 
 MONTPELIER BUTTER — Blanched water- 
 cress, chervil, tarragon and parsley, with hard 
 boiled egg yolks, a few anchovies, gherkins, 
 capers and a clove of garlic are pounded to a 
 paste with their equal weight #f butter, a little 
 tarragon vinegar and lemon juice; when 
 smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve and gath- 
 ered for use. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER— To each cup 
 of melted butter is added a large spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, juice of two lemons, seasoned 
 with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. 
 
 PEPPER BUTTER— Three medium sized green 
 peppers pounded to a paste with one pound of 
 butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve and 
 gathered for use. 
 
 RAVIGOTE BUTTER— Blanched chives, pars- 
 ley, tarragon and shallots, pounded to a paste 
 with butter, lemon juice and a dash of anchovy 
 essence, then rubbed through a fine sieve and 
 gathered for use. 
 
 GARLIC BUTTER— A few cloves of garlic are 
 pounded to a paste with olive oil and butter; 
 when smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve; 
 gathered for use. 
 
 HORSERADISH BUTTER — Four ounces of 
 fine grated horseradish to each pound of butter 
 pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a 
 sieve and gathered for use. Many people like 
 this on broiled steaks instead of Maitre D'Hotel 
 butter. 
 
 SHRIMP BUTTER— Equal weight of shrimp 
 meat (canned or fresh), pounded to a paste with 
 butter, then rubbed through a sieve and gath- 
 ered for use. 
 
 DRAWN BUTTER — Half a pound of clear 
 melted butter, put on fire in a saucepan with 
 two ounces of flour, mixed together, pint of 
 boiling water stirred into it, simmered for a 
 minute, then ready for use. 
 BUTTER ADULTERATIONS — Although on 
 account of the strict pure food laws are rare, 
 still country butter as is often to be purchased 
 by the steward on the open market is sometimes 
 
 adulterated with wheat, pea, potato flours, 
 chalk, potato starch, and variously colored with 
 yellow chrome, carrot juice, saffron, alkanet, 
 marigold flowers and celandine juice. 
 
 BUTTERINE OR MARGARINE— Is a prepara- 
 tion of animal fats, made by working the fats 
 at the natural heat of the animal, then pressing 
 it by hydraulic pressure, the oil thus obtained 
 is then churned with diluted milk or water. 
 
 BUTTER BALL DUCK— A small wild duck of 
 American origin. For receipes see "duck." 
 
 CABBAGE — As sold in our markets are of three 
 colors, white, green and red; appreciated by 
 the average guest in any of the following forms: 
 
 BOILED CABBAGE— If young require about 
 fifteen minutes, if old twenty to thirty minutes 
 are required for boiling. They should be cut 
 in quarters, the stalks removed, and then the 
 leaves be separated. It is quite a common 
 thing for the cooks to boil them simply in 
 quarters without separating the leaves; not 
 only is this a dirty way, but seldom is the inner 
 part done till the outer leaves are cooked too 
 much and rendered tasteless. After the leaves 
 are separated they should be soaked in cold 
 water to which is added salt; if this precaution 
 is neglected slugs and various small insects may 
 be retained in the leaves. When thoroughly 
 washed put to boil in boiling salted water with 
 a small piece of common washing soda; cook 
 them with the saucepan lid OFF. As the smell 
 of boiling cabbage often reaches the guests' 
 rooms over the kitchen, a piece of stale bread 
 crust or charcoal tied in a piece of muslin 
 boiled with the cabbage, will be found to obvi- 
 ate the smell. When done they should be 
 turned into a colander and the water pressed 
 cut, then seasoned with salt, pepper and but- 
 ter. The too common way of sending cabbage 
 to the table floating in the water it was boiled 
 in cannot be condemned too strongly. 
 
 BAKED CABBAGE WITH HAM — Fresh 
 boiled cabbage with the water pressed out, 
 mixed with drawn butter, placed in a baking 
 pan, sprinkled with grated cheese and ham, 
 baked, served with a slice of roast ham on top. 
 
 STEWED CABBAGE— Fresh boiled and pressed 
 cabbage cut fine, then sauteed in butter, sur- 
 plus butter poured off, covered with cream 
 sauce, simmered for a few minutes and served. 
 
 CREAMED CABBAGE— Coarsely shred cab- 
 bage, thoroughly washed, boiled, drained, then 
 mixed with cream sauce. 
 
 STUFFED CABBAGE — Whole cabbage par- 
 boiled, the heart removed, its place filled with 
 a stuffing of finely chopped cooked meat and 
 sausage meat mixed together, the aperture 
 covered with a slice of salt pork, tied, placed 
 in a saucepan with white stock and a little 
 sherry wine, cover put on, and simmered till 
 done ; served with a good brown gravy poured 
 around. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 -7 
 
 BRAISED CABBAGE— Cabbage cut in halves, 
 thoroughly picked over and washed, boiled not 
 quite done, taken up and drained, the stalk 
 then removed and the two halves put together 
 and tied, resembling the whole cabbage, braised 
 with white stock for an hour, then taken up, 
 drained ; served as a vegetable or cut in shapes 
 to be used as a garniture. 
 
 FRIED CABBAGE WITH BACON — Fresh 
 boiled, pressed, and seasoned cabbage cut fine, 
 fried in bacon fat ; served with a slice of boiled 
 bacon on top. 
 
 CABBAGE TIMB ALES— Cabbage prepared and 
 cooked the same as for "boiled cabbage "; then 
 well pressed, finely chopped and mixed with 
 lightly fried minced onion, put in a saiitoir with 
 a little butter and simmered with the lid on for 
 fifteen minutes, then allowed to cool ; while 
 cooling, equal parts of sausage meat and fresh 
 bread crumbs with a few beaten eggs and 
 chopped parsley are thoroughly mixed together; 
 the timbale molds are then buttered, a piece of 
 bacon put in, the sides lined with blanched 
 cabbage leaves, the cabbage and stuffing then 
 filled in the molds in alternate layers till full, 
 another piece of bacon put on the top, the tim- 
 bales then baked in a moderate oven for about 
 an hour, the bacon removed, cabbage turned 
 out and the inner piece of bacon removed ; 
 served with a good brown gravy poured over 
 and around. 
 
 BAKED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE— Fresh 
 boiled and pressed cabbage seasoned with salt, 
 pepper and butter, arranged in layers in baking 
 pan, each layer sprinkled with grated cheese, 
 top layer with grated cheese and bread crumbs 
 mixed, sprinkled with butter, baked and served 
 (called Cabbage au Gratin). 
 
 PAUPIETTES OF CABBAGE— Blanched cab- 
 bage leaves, taken about four thick, the outer 
 one being the largest, the inner one spread with 
 sausage meat mixed with boiled rice, shallots, 
 chopped parsley and chives, then rolled up and 
 tied, arranged in a sautoir till full, little broth 
 added, cover put on and simmered till done ; 
 served with brown gravy or as a garniture. 
 
 BOILED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE— The 
 cabbage boiled and pressed, chopped, then 
 mixed with small pieces of boiled bacon and 
 Allemande sauce. 
 
 CABBAGE WITH EGGS — Fresh boiled and 
 pressed cabbage finely chopped, placed in a 
 sautoir with a little drawn butter and vinegar, 
 stirred over a quick fire for a few minutes till 
 smooth and creamy ; served garnished with 
 quartered hard boiled eggs and sprinkled with 
 finely chopped eggs. 
 
 STEWED RED CABBAGE WITH SAUSAGES 
 — Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, wash, 
 drain, place it in a saucepan with butter and 
 simmer it with the lid on for half an hour, then 
 put in some slices of salt pork and white stock 
 and cook till done ; take up and drain ; serve 
 
 with fried or boiled sausages on top, and a 
 brown gravy poured around. 
 
 COLE SLAW — Finely shred cabbage mixed with 
 pepper, salt, sugar, oil and vinegar ; also the 
 plain shred cabbage served as an adjunct to 
 fried or stewed oysters. 
 
 CABBAGE SALAD — Finely shred cabbage, some 
 bacon cut in dice and fried ; while still in the 
 pan, equal parts of water and vinegar, with a 
 seasoning of salt and pepper added to it, boiled, 
 cooled, then mixed with the cabbage. 
 
 RED CABBAGE SALAD— The cabbage finely 
 washed, drained, then covered with vinegar, 
 dredged with salt and pepper and steeped for a 
 few hours, then drained and mixed with French 
 dressing ; served garnished with shred celery 
 in mayonnaise. 
 
 HOT SLAW — Finely shred cabbage washed 
 and drained, put in saucepan with butter, 
 lid put on and simmered till nearly done, 
 water, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a little sugar 
 then added, and finish cooking till tender ; 
 finished by working in some beaten eggs till 
 smooth, yellow and creamy. 
 
 PICKLED CABBAGE— Finely shred red cabbage 
 thoroughly dredged with salt and placed in large 
 colander or sieve to drain for several hours, 
 then washed, drained, and packed in jars with 
 a few whole peppers, bay leaves and a little 
 thyme, the jar then filled up with white wire 
 vinegar containing beet juice (or a boiled beet 
 may be put in with the cabbage), cover of jar 
 put on, kept in a cold place ; ready for use in 
 about a month. 
 
 PICKLED CABBAGE— Two gallons of finely 
 chopped cabbage, one pound of chopped onions, 
 half pound each of red and green peppers cut 
 in shreds, mixed together, with one pound of 
 salt, placed in a crock and stood over night; 
 then taken out, put in colander and well pres- 
 sed; then put in crock in layers, and on each 
 layer sprinkle mustard seeds and a few cloves 
 till all in, covered with cider vinegar; when 
 vinegar sinks, the next day, fill it up so that 
 the cabbage is covered; ready for use in two 
 days. 
 
 SAUERKRAUT— This is finely shred cabbage 
 packed in barrels in layers with salt and allowed 
 to sour. It is a nasty smelling troublesome 
 thing to attend to in hotel life, and can really 
 be bought better and cheaper than by home 
 preparation. When to be cooked, it is thor- 
 oughly washed and slowly boiled for two or 
 three hours with carrot, onion stuck with clove? 
 and a piece of ham or bacon. If to be served 
 with frankfurters, or sausages, they are boiled 
 in it. 
 
 CAFE — Pronounced KAFFAY. The name used 
 to signify a restaurant or place where coffee is 
 to be obtained. It is the French word for 
 coffee, often seen on the bill of fare as "cafe 
 noir" which means black coffee or strong coffee. 
 
 CASES — Are fanciful shaped pieces of paper 
 
28 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 made to hold and serve delicate foods; also 
 made by the cook of rice, potatoes, turnips, 
 etc.; most often seen on the bill of fare as EN 
 CAISSE. 
 
 CAILLES — French name for "quails;" when 
 spoken the two ELLS are silent. 
 
 CALIPEE AND CALIPASH— The first is the 
 name given to the meat attached to the lower, 
 and the last to the meat attached to upper shells 
 of a turtle. 
 
 CALF — Is the name given to parts of the young 
 of the cow (in a culinary way) such as the head, 
 feet, liver, tail, heart, brains, kidneys and 
 sweetbreads; the other parts or meat is called 
 veal, for recipes of which see "Veal". 
 
 CALF'S HEAD — The head as purchased should 
 be left entire with simply the hair cleaned off, 
 and, if in the country towns or resorts, the cook 
 has to clean it himself, plunge it into boiling 
 water containing common washing soda, let it 
 remain for a few minutes, then scrape it per- 
 fectly clean with a fish scaler or curry-comb, 
 then singe it like poultry; the head is then split 
 in halves, the brains removed, washed, put to 
 boil in cold water with salt and vegetables, 
 scum removed as it rises, simmered till tender, 
 taken up and put into a pan of cold water, and 
 all bones removed which come away easily, 
 then skin the roof of the mouth, and put the 
 head and tongue between two boards with a 
 weight on top, and press till cold. The stock 
 which the head was boiled in is good to use for 
 soups and white sauces. The pressed meat will 
 be called "calf's head meat" for the following 
 recipes: 
 
 CALF'S HEAD BAKED WITH CHIPOLATA 
 GARNISH — Calf's head meat rut in portions, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and pow- 
 dered thyme, arranged in baking pan with smal^ 
 onions, mushrooms, small veal sausages, pieces 
 of ham and chicken, blanched and peeled chest- 
 nuts, and small balls of carrots and turnips, the 
 whole covered with a rich brown sauce, baked 
 till the garnish is done and the head glazy; 
 served with a little of the sauce poured over 
 and surrounded with the garnish. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD BAKED, ENGLISH STYLE— 
 Calf's head meat cut in slices, arranged in bak- 
 ing pan with a seasoning of salt, pepper, nut- 
 meg, an onion stuck with cloves, covered with 
 a white sauce made from the stock the head 
 was boiled in, baked for half an hour; served 
 with some of the sauce poured over, sprinkled 
 with parsley and garnished with quenelles of 
 brain forcemeat and quartered eggs. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD BAKED, GERMAN STYLE— 
 Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces, seasoned, 
 arranged in pan with mushrooms, pieces of 
 sweetbreads, and the tongue cut in thin slices, 
 covered with a sauce Bourgignotte and a sprink- 
 ling of Parmesan cheese, baked half an hour; 
 served with some of the sauce poured over, 
 decorated with the slices of tongue, sprinkled 
 
 with minced truffle peelings and parsley, gar- 
 nished with sauteed oysters and the mushrooms. 
 
 BAKED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE MAINTE- 
 NON — Calf's head meat cut in slices, dipped 
 in D'Uxelles sauce, then in cracker crumbs, 
 then breaded and arranged in a buttered baking 
 pan, brushed over with butter, baked till brown, 
 served with a Maintenon sauce poured over. 
 "See sauces." 
 
 CALF'S HEAD WITH BACON AND PARS- 
 LEY SAUCE — Calf's head meat cut in slices 
 and made hot in veloute sauce containing 
 chopped parsley; served with some of the sauce 
 poured over, and garnished with two thin slices 
 of boiled bacon or pork. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE, PIQUANTE 
 SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat made hot 
 in piquante sauce; served with some of the 
 sauce poured over, decorated with scallops of 
 the tongue, and garnished with pieces of the 
 brain breaded and fried. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD WITH FINANCIERE RA- 
 GOUT — Slices of calf's head meat arranged in 
 a sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves 
 and cloves, moistened with consomme and 
 sherry wine, quickly braised for an hour, meat 
 taken up, the braise strained, skimmed and re- 
 duced to a glaze, then strained over the meat; 
 served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, 
 and garnished with cocks-combs and kernels, 
 pieces of sweetbreads, mushrooms and small 
 quenelles made hot in Madeira sauce. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE ITALIENNE— Calf's 
 head meat in slices, made hot in brown Italian 
 sauce; served with the sauce poured over, and 
 garnished with fancy potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, MUSHROOM 
 SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat made hot 
 in mushroom sauce; served with a slice of 
 boiled brains on top, the brains decorated with 
 slices of green pickles, garnished with button 
 mushrooms, and sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE STYLE— Calf 's head 
 meat cut in squares, made hot with stoned 
 olives, button mushrooms, small forcemeat 
 balls, and hard boiled yolks of eggs in equal 
 parts of tomato and madeira sauces; served, 
 surrounded with the garnish. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE POULETTE— Slices 
 of calf's head meat made hot in poulette sauce; 
 served garnished with balls of potatoes sprinkled 
 with parsley and button mushrooms. 
 
 BRAISED CALF'S HEAD WITH VEAL 
 QUENELLES — The meat prepared and 
 braised the same as given for "with financiere 
 garnish"; served dipped in the glaze, and gar- 
 nished with small quenelles of veal dipped in 
 Ravigote sauce alternately with scallops of the 
 tongue. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE— 
 Calf's head meat seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and nutmeg, dipped in a mixture of four beaten 
 eggs, yolks of two hard boiled eggs rubbed 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 29 
 
 through a sieve or grater, and half a cup of 
 melted butter, then breaded with grated fresh 
 crumbs, or dipped in batter and fried; served 
 with tomato sauce poured under. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, SAUCE POIV- 
 RADE— Prepared and fried same as the pre- 
 ceding in crumbs, Poivrade sauce poured under, 
 and the ends of dish garnished with the brains 
 cut small and mixed in a thick Ravigote sauce. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD WITH 
 VEGETABLES- Calf's head meat cut in slices 
 with the tongue, made hot in a rich Allemande 
 sauce, served with the sauce poured over and 
 garnished with balls of carrot, turnip, potatoes 
 and green peas that have been boiled separately 
 in consomme with a little sugar. 
 
 BOILED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE VINAI- 
 GRETTE— The meat and tongue cut in slices, 
 made hot in white stock; served alternately 
 with vinaigrette sauce poured over and gar- 
 nished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD WITH OLIVES, TOMATO 
 SAUCE — Slices of calf's head meat simmered 
 in tomato sauce; served with it, and garnished 
 with stoned olives that have been blanched in 
 consomme. 
 
 STUFFED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE PAPI- 
 LOTTE — Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces 
 diamond shape, thickly spread with brain force- 
 meat (see brains), arranged in a buttered baking 
 pan, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and 
 butter, slightly moistened with stock, baked 
 slowly till brown; served with a sauce Papilotte 
 poured around the base. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE 
 — Same as "calf's head, turtle style," adding 
 the tongue cut in scallops, and garnishing the 
 ends of the dish with croutons. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD CURRIED WITH RICE — 
 X Slices of the meat made hot in a good curry 
 sauce, made either of the stock the head was 
 boiled in, or veal, or chicken stock, a border of 
 dry boiled rice arranged as a border on the 
 dish, with the curried meat in the center. 
 
 OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD- -Four-fifths 
 of beaten eggs, one-fifth of cold consomme, and 
 the brains of the head cleaned, beaten to a 
 pulp, little chopped parsley, salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg, all mixed together ; small squares of 
 catf's head meat made hot in madeira sauce ; 
 the omelet mixture fried in form, enclosing 
 some of the meat in sauce, turned on to the 
 dish, slit made in the top of the omelet, more 
 meat put in ; served with some of the meat and 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD SOUP WITH QUENELLES— 
 The stock the head was boiled in and an equal 
 quantity of chicken stock mixed, rice boiled in 
 it till soft, then all rubbed through a puree sieve, 
 the puree thus obtained mixed with an equal 
 quantity of supreme sauce and brought to the 
 boil, calf's head meat in small squares, and 
 
 some small quenelles of brain forcemeat added 
 to the soup and served. 
 
 CALF'S HEAD SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE 
 — The stock the head was boiled in strained 
 into a good veal stock, in which is boiled a 
 jardiniere of vegetables, some tomatoes and 
 barley, thickened with roux ; when nearly 
 done, the calf's head meat and tongue with a 
 little calf's liver blanched, all cut in small 
 squares, added to the soup and served. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP, THICK— Sliced car- 
 rots, turnips, onions and shallots sauteed in 
 butter, then put in a sauce pan with some 
 browned veal and beef bones, a little vinegar, 
 sweet basil, thyme, bay leaves, mace and whole 
 cloves, fill up with stock, boil up, skimmed, 
 then add a calf's head and boil it till tender ; 
 take it out when done, put it in cold water and 
 remove the bones ; thicken the stock with roux ; 
 into the soup tureen put the calf's head cut up 
 small, some yolks of hard boiled eggs, slices of 
 the white of egg, small quenelles of brain force- 
 meat, salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped pars- 
 ley and sherry wine, then strain the thickened 
 stock into it and serve. 
 
 CLEAR MOCK TURTLE— A consomme made 
 of veal and chicken stock in which has been 
 boiled a calf's head and feet, the consomme 
 flavored with essence of anchovies, sweet basil, 
 mushroom catsup, a little curry powder and 
 lemon peel ; serve with small quenelles of brain 
 forcemeat, the calf's head cut in dice, and finish 
 with a little brandy. 
 
 CALF'S EARS BOILED, SAUCE VILLEROI 
 — The ears cut off close to the head before the 
 head is split for boiling, thoroughly washed, 
 and boiled in white stock with vegetables and 
 spices, taken up ; served with Villeroi sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 CALF'S EARS FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE — 
 The ears boiled as above, then breaded and 
 fried, retaining their shape as much as pos- 
 sible ; served with tomato sauce poured around 
 and garnished with slices of broiled tomatoes 
 that have been sprinkled with cheese while 
 broiling. 
 
 CALF'S EARS STUFFED, SAUCE BORDE- 
 LAISE — The ears boiled not quite done, taken 
 up, stuffed with a veal stuffing, smoothing the 
 face from the opening to the tip, arranged in a 
 sautoir, moistened with consommee and sim- 
 mered till done ; served with Bordelaise sauce 
 poured over and around. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CALF'S EARS IN CROUSTADES 
 — Calf's ears boiled till tender, cut in small 
 squares, sauteed in butter with mushrooms, 
 stoned olives, pieces of brains and tongue, but 
 the ears predominating ; when colored, surplus 
 butter drained off, moistened with madeira 
 sauce, filled into paste croustades and served. 
 
 CALF'S EARS, TURTLE STYLE — The ears 
 bolied and left whole, then made hot with whole- 
 stoned olives, button mushrooms, small force- 
 
3o 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 meat balls of the brains, and hard-boiled yolks 
 of eggs in equal parts of tomato and madeira 
 sauces ; served, the yolk of egg in the opening 
 of the ear, and surrounded with the garnish. 
 
 CALF'S EARS WITH TRUFFLES, SAUCE 
 TRIANON— The ears boiled and left whole, 
 the part just below the tip studded with pieces 
 of diamond-shaped truffle and the opening of 
 the ear with a whole glazed truffle ; arranged 
 in a sautoir with a very little consomme, the 
 ears brushed over with glaze, made hot, and 
 served with a Trianon sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S BRAINS — For the several receipes of 
 which see heading of " brains." 
 
 CALF'S FEET — The hoof is split with a knife, 
 then treated the same as calf's head; when 
 done, the bones removed, and the meat pressed 
 between boards. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET — The cold 
 meat cut in neat shaped pieces, made hot in 
 Pascaline sauce ; served garnished with button 
 mushroons and small Victoria potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S FEET BOILED, POIVRADE SAUCE 
 — Neatly trimmed pieces of the c jld meat made 
 hot in white stock ; served with Poivrade sauce 
 poured over and garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 FRIED CALF'S FEET IN BATTER, ITALIAN 
 SAUCE — Cold cooked feet, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper and lemon juice, dipped in plain batter, 
 fried; served with brown Italian sauce poured 
 around, and garnished with small potato 
 croquettes. 
 
 CALF'S FEET STEAMED, SAUCE REMOU- 
 LADE — Slices of the cold meat steamed ; 
 served with Remoulade sauce poured over and 
 garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S FEET WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUCE 
 POULETTE — Squares of cold meat made hot 
 in Poulette sauce ; served with the sauce, and 
 garnished with button mushrooms that have 
 been lightly fried in butter. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF CALF'S FEET — Small 
 squares of the cold meat made hot in a sauce 
 prepared from the stock they were boiled in, 
 brought to a simmer, then is added some finely 
 minced yolks of eggs, a little dry mustard, salt, 
 red pepper, white wine and lemon juice, quickly 
 reduced, filled into paste croustadesand served. 
 
 CALF'S FEET CREPINETTES, SAUCE 
 PROVENCALE— The cold meat of the feet 
 cut up small, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon 
 juice and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity 
 of veal or pork sausage meat, made into shapes 
 of small Hamburg steaks, broiled ; served with 
 Provencale sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S FEET JELLY — Raw cleaned calf's 
 feet chopped up, put to boil in cold water with 
 a stick of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon, 
 boiled till soft, and the liquor well reduced, 
 strain, allowed to get cold, then all fat and 
 skimmings removed, the liquor which should 
 have become like jelly then put back into a 
 bright kettle with some beaten whites of eggs, 
 
 sugar to taste, little white wine and lemon 
 juice, brought slowly to the boil without stir- 
 ring, then allowed to simmer till the coagula- 
 tion turns a grey color, about twenty minutes, 
 then strained and restrained through a jelly 
 bag ; when nearly cool, filled into glasses or 
 molds, and served when set and cold. 
 
 CALF'S HEART STUFFED, MADEIRA 
 SAUCE — The hearts soaked and the veins 
 cut away, put in boiling water and simmered 
 for ten minutes, then refreshed in cold water, 
 taken up and wiped dry, the cavity made and 
 filled with a poultry stuffing, crust of bread tied 
 over the opening to keep the stuffing in, roasted 
 and basted with gravy till done ; served split in 
 halves, dressing side up, with Madeira sauce 
 poured around and garnished with croutons. 
 
 CALF'S HEART STUFFED AND BRAISED 
 — Prepare, and stuffed as above, but the opening 
 covered and tied with a slice of salt pork ; 
 arranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, 
 onions, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 
 moistened with stock, braised and basted till 
 tender, taken up, the braise strained, skimmed 
 and added to a Madeira sauce, reduced to a half 
 glaze ; the heart served cut in halves with some 
 of the glaze poured round the edges, and gar- 
 nished with Parisienne potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S HEART LARDED, SAUCE ANDA- 
 LOUSE— The top of the heart larded with 
 strips of seasoned larding pork, then prepared 
 and stuffed, arranged in a sautoir and braised 
 as in the preceding receipe ; served, the whole 
 heart, point upwards with Andalusian sauce 
 poured over, and garnished at the ends with a 
 macedoine of vegetables. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS LARDED, MADEIRA 
 SAUCE — The kidneys blanched for a few min- 
 utes, then freshened in cold water and after- 
 wards wiped dry, larded with seasoned strips 
 of pork, arranged in a sautoir with a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar, powdered mixed herbs, melted 
 butter and consomme, quickly braised and 
 glazed ; served on a bed of mashed potatoes 
 with Madeira sauce poured around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — See 
 receipe under head of " Brochette." 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS BROILED, PARSLEY 
 BUTTER— The kidneys blanched and cooled, 
 then cut in two lengthwise, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in 
 fresh bread crumbs, broiled till done ; served 
 on toast with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured 
 over them, and garnished with cress and lemon. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS SAUTES WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS— The kidneys lightly blanched and 
 refreshed, cut in small slices, sauteed with 
 minced onion and sliced button mushrooms ; 
 when done, sprinkled with parsley, salt, pepper 
 and a dash of tarragon vinegar, moistened with 
 a little Colbert sauce and served on a toast 
 garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 3i 
 
 PATTIES OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — Puff paste 
 patty shells filled with the preceding, saute, 
 but having the kidneys cut in very small dice. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CALF'S KIDNEYS — Kidneys 
 cut about the same size as button mushrooms, 
 sauteed in butter with mushrooms and minced 
 shallots with a clove of garlic ; when browned, 
 put into a Bordelaise sauce and simmered for 
 a few minutes ; served, a border of potato 
 croquette mixture forced through a fancy tube, 
 sprinkled with chopped parsley, and the ragout 
 in the center. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS CROQUETTES WITH 
 PEAS — Cold braised kidneys (see Calf's Kid- 
 neys Larded, Madeira Sauce), minced and 
 seasoned, made hot in a thick Madeira sauce, 
 turned into a pan to cool, smoothed with a knife, 
 covered with a buttered paper; when cold, cut 
 in pieces, formed into croquettes of the desired 
 shape, breaded, fried, and served with green 
 peas at the ends of the dish and Madeira sauce 
 poured around, the croquettes decorated with a 
 frill. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS FRIED, SAUCE COLBERT 
 — The kidneys split lengthwise and seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then fried 
 in butter ; served on toast with Colbert sauce 
 poured over ; garnished with croutons. 
 
 CALF'S KIDNEYS IN CROUSTADES— Broiled 
 kidneys and cold boiled ham both cut into small 
 dice; minced mushrooms fried in butter, then 
 drained and added to the meats with a little 
 chopped parsley, all mixed, moistened with 
 Bechamel sauce, made hot, filled into croustades 
 and served. 
 
 HALF'S KIDNEY OMELET — The mixture 
 given for "Patties of Calf's Kidneys," the 
 omelet made of beaten eggs, chopped chives, 
 parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, enclosing 
 some of the kidneys, and served with more of 
 the meat in sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER WITH CRISPED ONIONS— 
 The liver trimmed from veins, larded through 
 with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in a 
 sautoir with bacon trimmings, little consomme 
 and sherry wine, cover put on, and roasted till 
 done and glazy, liver taken up, brown sauce 
 added to the residue of the sautoir, boiled, 
 skimmed and strained, liver served in slices 
 with the gravy and garnished with rings of 
 onions that have been dipped in milk, rolled in 
 flour and fried in hot fat. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER SAUTE WITH BACON — 
 Slices of liver and bacon, the bacon fried first, 
 then the liver seasoned and rolled in flour, fried 
 in bacon fat ; when done, flour added to the 
 pan, stirred, and moistened with stock, boiled 
 up, strained, skimmed, juice of lemon added ; 
 the liver served with some of the gravy and 
 garnished with the bacon. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER STEWED WITH ONIONS— 
 Green spring onions chopped and fried in bacon 
 
 fat in a sautoir, liver cut small and put with the 
 onions and tossed over a quick fire till set, su- 
 perfluous fat then poured off, flour stirred in, 
 moistened with stock, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, simmered till tender; served garnished 
 with a border of Victoria potatoes. 
 
 BRAISED CALF'S LIVER WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES — The liver trimmed from veins, 
 larded with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in 
 a sautoir with some bacon trimmings, carrot, 
 onion, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, 
 moistened with consomme and sherry wine, 
 covered with a sheet of buttered paper, lid put 
 on, braised till tender, taken up, sauce added 
 to the braise, boiled up, strained and skimmed ; 
 the liver served in slices and garnished with 
 balls of carrot, turnip and small glazed onions. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER FRIED WITH FINE HERBS 
 — Slices of the liver seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon fat with 
 minced chives and shallots, taken up, grease 
 poured off, fines-herbes sauce added to the 
 pan, boiled up, served with the liver. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER BROILED, ITALIAN SAUCE 
 — Slices of liver seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in flour, dipped in melted butter, broiled 
 till done ; served with brown Italian sauce 
 poured around and garnished with chip potatoes. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 
 MUSHROOMS — Small pieces of liver seasoned 
 and fried in bacon fat, taken up and put into a 
 brown Italian sauce, simmered for a few min- 
 utes, served with a border of fried button mush- 
 rooms. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH 
 — The liver larded and braised, the bacon boiled 
 tender, the spinach boiled in the bacon water, 
 drained, pressed, chopped fine and seasoned 
 with salt and pepper ; served, the spinach as a 
 bed, the liver and bacon in slices alternately on 
 top, with some of the gravy from the braising 
 poured around. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF CALF'S LIVER WITH 
 BACON — See recipe under heading of 
 " Brochette." 
 
 CALF'S LIVER WITH SMOTHERED 
 ONIONS — The liver in slices, seasoned, floured 
 and fried, the onions sliced and steamed for a 
 few minutes, then put in a sautoir with bacon 
 fat and smothered a light brown over a quick 
 fire ; the liver served garnished with the onions. 
 
 LIVER CHEESE, ITALIAN STYLE — Calf's 
 liver four-fifths, salt pork one-fifth, finely 
 minced with a few shallots, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and 
 sherry wine; bread pans lined with thin slices 
 of bacon, the liver mince filled in, with slices 
 of bacon and bay leaves on top, covered with 
 buttered paper and slowly baked till done (about 
 three hours); served either cold in slices, or be- 
 tween bread as sandwiches, or in slices hot, 
 with Italian sauce poured over. 
 
32 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 LIVER FORCEMEAT BALLS— Made the same 
 as "liver cheese" above, but adding some bread 
 crumbs, raw yolks of eggs and chopped parsley; 
 when thoroughly mixed, made into balls and 
 poached till done in white stock; served with a 
 Hollandaise sauce. The Germans call this dish 
 "LIVER KLOSSE." 
 
 TIMBALE OF CALF'S LIVER, PIQUANT 
 SAUCE — The "liver cheese" above filled into 
 timbale molds, and steamed or baked till done; 
 served with piquant sauce poured over. 
 
 CALF'S LIVER QUENELLES IN CRUMBS— 
 The "forcemeat" mixture above, shaped like 
 eggs between two spoons, poached, taken up, 
 and rolled in fried bread crumbs; served gar- 
 nished with parsley and lemon, and Allemande 
 sauce served separately. 
 
 POTTED CALF'S LIVER WITH ASPIC 
 JELLY — Slices of liver fried in bacon fat with 
 minced onions and mushrooms, taken up and 
 pounded to a paste with wine, powdered mixed 
 herbs, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then rubbed 
 through a fine sieve with its equal weight of fat 
 bacon; into this pur£e is then mixed a minced 
 clove of garlic, some ham and bacon fat cut in 
 small dice; when thoroughly incorporated, 
 filled into bread pans, covered with thick but- 
 tered paper, the filled pans put into roasting 
 pans containing cold water half way up, put in 
 oven and slowly baked till done (about two 
 hours), taken out, allowed to partly cool, then 
 turned out, trimmed; served cold in slices, 
 decorated with aspic jelly. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE BRAISED, TOMATO 
 SAUCE — The tongues blanched and freshened, 
 then larded with strips of seasoned larding pork, 
 arranged in sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, 
 bay leaves and whole cloves, moistened with 
 stock, braised and glazed; served in slices cut 
 lengthwise, with tomato sauce. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE SAUTE, VINAIGRETTE— 
 The tongues blanched, freshened and skinned, 
 then cut lengthwise in slices, sauteed in butter 
 with minced shallots; served with sauce vinai- 
 grette. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE, SAUCE TARTARE— The 
 braised tongues above, allowed to become cold; 
 served in slices with tartare sauce, garnished 
 with strips of pickles. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE FRIED, SAUCE ROBERT 
 — The tongue boiled with vegetables, herbs and 
 spices, skinned, cut lengthwise in slices, bread- 
 ed, fried; served with a Robert sauce poured 
 under. 
 
 CALF'S TONGUE WITH POTATOES, MUSH- 
 ROOM SAUCE— The tongues boiled and skin- 
 ned as in the preceding recipe, then cut in long 
 slices, dipped in glaze, arranged on a bed of 
 mashed potatoes, with mushroom sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS BROILED, SAUCE 
 COLBERT — The sweetbreads soaked in cold 
 salted water for a few hours, then boiled with 
 
 a few whole spices, bay leaves, vegetables and 
 a dash of vinegar till tender, taken up, put into 
 cold water and all rough fat and skin removed, 
 then pressed between boards till cold (for the 
 following recipes the above directions zuill be 
 called "prepared") when cold split in slices, 
 dipped in melted butter, then in seasoned bread 
 crumbs, broiled; served with Colbert sauce 
 poured around. They may also be served with 
 maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with fancy 
 potatoes. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS SAUTES WITH 
 PEAS — Prepared sweetbreads split and sauteed 
 in butter; served on a bed of mashed potatoes, 
 with green peas in sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CREAM, ON 
 TOAST — Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
 crosswise, made hot in reduced cream; served 
 on toast, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, 
 with some of the cream poured around. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 
 PERIGUEUX — Prepared sweetbreads split, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped 
 in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
 color; served with Perigueux sauce, and gar- 
 nished with fancy croutons. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN 
 BUTTER — Prepared sweefcbreads split, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and powdered herbs 
 rolled in flour, fried in butter; served wiih 
 brown butter, made by melting butter to the 
 frothing point, then adding lemon juice and 
 chopped parsley; poured over the sweetbreads 
 on hot dish. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES 
 WITH PEAS — Prepared sweetbreads cut into 
 small dice, mixed with half the amount of grated 
 boiled ham, a few minced sauteed shalljts and 
 mushrooms, thoroughly heated in a thick Ve- 
 loute sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and 
 nutmeg, poured into a buttered shallow pan, 
 smoothed with a knife, covered with buttered 
 paper; when cold, cut into pieces of an equal 
 size, shaped, breaded, fried, served with green 
 peas in white sauce or half glaze as a border, 
 with frills in the croquettes. 
 
 RISSOLES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
 WITH VEGETABLES— The croquette mix- 
 ture above, when cold, cut out and formed into 
 balls, size of small egg; two sheets of puff paste 
 rolled out, the balls put in sections all over one, 
 covered with the other, edges pressed down, 
 then stamped out with a fancy cutter, arranged 
 on a baking sheet, washed over, baked; served 
 garnished with a macedoine of vegetables in 
 brown sauce. 
 
 RISSOLETTES are the same as rissoles, but 
 smaller. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN SHELL— The 
 croquette mixture above, filled into buttered 
 scallop shells, sprinkled with grated biead 
 crumbs and melted butter, browned in the oven 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 33 
 
 and served, (called, SWEETBREADS EN 
 COQUILLE). 
 
 SCALLOPED CALF'S SWEETBREADS — 
 The same as the preceding, with the addition 
 of grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the bread 
 crumbs; served in the shell, (called, SWEET- 
 BREADS EN COQUILLE AU GRATIN). 
 
 PATTIES OF SCRAMBLED CALF'S SWEET- 
 BREADS — Prepared sweetbreads cut into small 
 dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice 
 and chopped parsley, mixed into beaten eggs 
 with a little cream, scrambled in butter but 
 kept soft, (best when scrambled to order) filled 
 into hot patty shells and served with a little 
 Veloute sauce poured around. 
 
 CUTLETS OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
 WITH VEGETABLES— The croquette mix- 
 ture (see Calf's Sweetbread Croquettes with 
 Peas) when cold, cut out and shaped like small 
 lamb chops, with a piece of macaroni to repre- 
 sent the bone, breaded and fried; served with 
 a border of Julienne vegetables mixed into Hol- 
 landaise sauce, (called, SWEETBREAD CUT- 
 LETS a la NIVERNAISE). 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH FINAN- 
 CIERE RAGOUT — Prepared sweetbreads 
 split and seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 
 meg, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter, taken 
 up, kept hot in glaze, served on fancy croutons 
 surrounded with a garnish of cock's combs and 
 kernels, button mushrooms, small quenelles and 
 truffles, all made hot in a rich Madeira sauce, 
 (called SWEETBREAD SAUTE a la FINAN- 
 CIERED 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CASES — Pre- 
 pared sweetbreads cut in small dice, seasoned 
 with salt and red pepper, made hot in Veloute 
 sauce, filled into paper cases, sprinkled with 
 fresh bread crumbs and melted butter, arranged 
 on a baking sheet and very quickly browned in 
 the oven or with a salamander and served. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT OF SWEETBREADS AND 
 MUSHROOMS— The preceding with the addi- 
 tion of an equal quantity of cut and sauteed 
 mushrooms, filled into a good sized puff paste 
 patty shell with a cover placed on and served. 
 
 TIMBALE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
 Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised, al- 
 lowed to become cold, then cut in thin slices. 
 A rich forcemeat of cooked chicken and mush- 
 rooms well seasoned, the sweetbreads and force- 
 meat filled into timbale molds in alternate 
 layers; when full, moistened with the reduced 
 and strained braise, the opening covered with 
 the same short paste as the molds are lined 
 with, baked, turned out; served with a Madeira 
 sauce containing a little chopped parsley and 
 some mushroom tops, poured over and around. 
 
 BOUCHEES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
 For recipe see heading of "Bouchees". 
 
 BROCHETTE OR ATTEREAUX OF CALF'S 
 SWEETBREADS— For recipe see "Brochette" 
 
 BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS, GAR- 
 
 NISHED— Prepared sweetbreads larded with 
 seasoned strips of bacon, then arranged in a 
 sautoir on a bed of thinly sliced vegetables, 
 with bay leaves and one or two cloves, covered 
 with thin slices of bacon, moistened with stock, 
 covered with buttered paper, lid put on and 
 braised quickly for half an hour with frequent 
 basting; when done, the lid, paper and bacon 
 removed, then put back into the oven to dry 
 the glaze on top of the sweetbreads, taken up, 
 the braise strained and skimmed, then poured 
 to a mixture of diced red tongue, truffles, mush- 
 rooms and chicken breast, little Madeira wine 
 and sauce then added; the sweetbreads served 
 on toast surrounded with the garnish, (called, 
 SWEETBREADS BRAISED a la MONT- 
 GLAS). 
 
 GLAZED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
 FRENCH BEANS — Prepared sweetbreads 
 larded and braised as in the preceding, the 
 braise strained, skimmed and mixed with green 
 French beans (Haricot Verts), the sweetbreads 
 served surrounded with the beans. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH DEMI- 
 GLACE — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
 braised as (see Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
 Garnished), when done the braise strained over 
 them, reduced with a little Madeira sauce and 
 wine; served on toast rolled in glaze, and gar- 
 nished. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED AND 
 BRAISED, MUSHROOM SAUCE- Same as 
 "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads Garnished", the 
 braise strained into a rich mushroom sauce, the 
 sweetbreads served surrounded with the mush- 
 rooms in sauce. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED, SAUCE 
 TOULOUSE — Prepared sweetbreads larded 
 and braised, served with asparagus points at 
 one end, green peas at the other end of the 
 dish, with Toulouse sauce at the sides. 
 
 BLANQUETTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
 — Slices of prepared sweetbreads made hot in a 
 light colored Allemande sauce, served with it 
 and decorated on the top with slices of truffles. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS— 
 Slices of prepared sweetbreads and mushrooms 
 made hot in Veloute sauce, the serving dish con- 
 taining a high border of potato croquette mix- 
 ture glazed and browned, the sweetbreads filled 
 into the centre, sprinkled with minced truffle 
 peelings and served. 
 
 FRICANDEAU OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
 CHICORY — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
 braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, 
 Garnished," when done the braise strained, 
 skimmed, then poured over the sweetbreads and 
 reduced to a glaze ; served on a bed of puree of 
 chicory or spinach, with a rich Madeira sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 CROUSTADE OF CURRIED CALF'S SWEET- 
 BREADS — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
 then sliced, made hot in a good curry sauce 
 
34 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 prepared from the stock they were boiled in, 
 filled into paste croustade cases, served two 
 cases full alternately with small turned-out 
 molds of dry boiled rice. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, MUSH- 
 ROOM SAUCE — Prepared sweetbreads split, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, rolled 
 in flour, dipped into beaten eggs, fried in hot 
 fat, served surrounded with button mushrooms 
 in a Maderia sauce. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS ON 
 TOAST — Prepared sweetbreads split and then 
 cut in slices, mixed with half the amount of 
 sliced mushrooms, made hot in a Maderia 
 sauce, served piled on toast with the sauce 
 around, garnished with fancy croutons whose 
 ends are dipped in sauce, then in chopped pars- 
 ley. 
 
 SWEETBREADS ANDTRUFFLES IN SHELL 
 — Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices, mixed 
 with slices of truffles and mushrooms, made 
 hot in a thick Allemande sauce, filled into 
 scallop shells, sprinkled with bread crumbs and 
 melted butter, browned in the oven or with a 
 salamander, and served. 
 
 STEWED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
 KIDNEY BEANS — Prepared sweetbreads 
 split, and made hot in Veloute sauce containing 
 minced shallots, whole mace, pieces of bacon 
 and sweet herbs for half an hour, taken up, a 
 liaison of egg yolks and cream then beaten into 
 the sauce and strained over the sweetbreads ; 
 served garnished with sauteed kidney beans 
 (flageolets) at ends, sauce at the sides. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH CREAMED 
 MUSHROOMS — Prepared sweetbreads cut in 
 slices and sauteed in butter piled on toast; 
 served surrounded with sliced mushrooms 
 boiled down in reduced cream. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
 MORELS — Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices 
 and sauteed in butter, then mixed into a rich 
 Madeira sauce ; served on toast, surrounded 
 with sliced morels that have been fried in their 
 own oil. 
 
 BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
 SORREL — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
 braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
 nished"; served on a bed of puree of sorrel, 
 with some of the strained and skimmed glaze 
 poured over and around. 
 
 KROMESKIES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS 
 — The croquette mixture (see Calf's Sweet- 
 bread Croquettes with Peas) when cold, cut out 
 and shaped like long corks, then rolled into a 
 thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned with a 
 toothpick, dipped into a plain batter and fried, 
 toothpick then removed ; served with a rich 
 veloute sauce poured around. 
 
 CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE 
 VILLEROI — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
 coated with cold Villeroi sauce, then rolled in 
 
 bread crumbs, beaten eggs and again bread 
 crumbs, fried; served with Villeroi sauce poured 
 around, and the ends of dish garnished with 
 green peas that have been sauteed in butter. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS AND 
 MUSHROOMS— Prepared sweetbreads split 
 and simmered in sauce Albert, served with it, 
 and garnished with button mushrooms that 
 have been lightly fried in butter and sprinkled 
 with chopped parsley. 
 
 BRAISED SWEETBREADS, SAUCE BEARN- 
 AISE — Prepared sweetbreads larded and 
 braised (as in Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- 
 nished); served decorated at the ends and sides 
 with slices of tuffles, and with Bearnaise sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 SAUTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH 
 BAKED TOMATOES— Prepared sweetbreads 
 split, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter with 
 minced shallots, strips of green peppers and a 
 crushed clove of garlic ; when browned, equal 
 parts of tomato and Napolitaine sauces added, 
 simmered ten minutes, taken up, sauce strained 
 over them. Served with some of the sauce and 
 garnished with small stuffed and baked toma- 
 toes. 
 
 SWEETBREADS BREADED, SAUCE TAR- 
 TARE — Prepared sweetbreads split and spread 
 on both sides with tartar sauce, rolled in 
 crumbs, then breaded and fried ; served with 
 Tartar sauce served separately, and garnished 
 with lemon and parsley. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS, SAUCE 
 BECHAMEL — Prepared sweetbreads split and 
 trimmed to a cutlet shape, half of them dipped 
 in cooling Bechamel sauce and when cold rolled 
 in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried, the 
 other half made hot in rich white stock, then 
 taken up and dipped in glaze, then coated with 
 Bechamel sauce ; served, one of each, sur- 
 rounded with scallops of red tongue and sliced 
 mushrooms in Bechamel sauce. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
 TOULOUSE RAGOUT — Prepared sweet- 
 breads cut in slices, then cut circular with large 
 sized column cutter, dipped in cooling Allem- 
 ande sauce, then in bread crumbs, afterwards 
 breaded and fried a golden color in butter ; 
 served overlapping each other round the dish, 
 the centre filled with cocks combs and kernels, 
 truffles cut in small squares, the trimmings of 
 the sweetbreads, and button mushrooms all 
 made hot in Allemande sauce. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH 
 POTATO CROQUETTES— The sweetbreads 
 cut and fried as in the preceding recipe, served 
 overlapping each other around the dish, the 
 centre filled with small potato cone-shaped 
 croquettes, the points being dipped in white 
 sauce, then in chopped parsley, with a sauce 
 Poulette around their base. 
 
 LARDED SWEETBREADS WITH TOU- 
 LOUSE RAGOUT —Prepared sweetbreads 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 35 
 
 larded through from top to bottom with alter- 
 nate strips of red tongue and truffles, so that 
 they resemble a studding ; braised as in 
 "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished"; 
 served surrounded with a Toulouse ragout as 
 given in "Scallops of Sweetbreads with Tou- 
 louse Ragout." 
 
 SWEETBREAD SALAD— Slices of prepared 
 sweetbread dipped in flour and fried iu butter, 
 allowed to become cold, shredded lettuce in 
 centre of the dish with cream salad dressing, 
 sweetbreads masked with mayonnaise arranged 
 around the lettuce, the lettuce decorated with 
 alternate slices of radishes and stamped pieces 
 of pickled beet. 
 
 SWEETBREAD SOUP — Minced ham and 
 onions with prepared sweetbreads and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs slowly sauteed in butter for an 
 hour, then flour added to form a paste, this 
 then rubbed through a fine sieve, the puree 
 then worked into a good veal or chicken stock, 
 boiled up and skimmed, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, and a little sugar ; served with small 
 croutons browned in the oven (called POTAGE 
 alaCOMTESSE). 
 
 CAMEMBERT — Name of an imported cheese, 
 put up in round flat boxes like brie. Is in its 
 prime when just soft and creamy with an in- 
 clination to run ; served in small quantities 
 with toasted crackers. 
 
 CANAPES — A French term literally meaning a 
 "couch," used in a culinary sense as a bed or 
 something to rest savory foods on, usually in 
 the form of bread or toast covered with minces, 
 pastes, etc., then decorated. 
 
 ANCHOVY CANAPES— Hard boiled eggs and 
 anchovies finely minced and spread on buttered 
 toast. Also, very shallow gem pans lined with 
 pie paste and baked, then filled when cold with 
 anchovies pounded to a paste with Gruyere 
 cheese, inverted on a circle of buttered toast 
 and garnished with minced gherkins. Also, a 
 mixture of chopped anchovies, grated ham, 
 truffles and gherkins mixed and moistened with 
 salad oil and caper vinegar, then filled into 
 very small patty cases ; served garnished with 
 pieces of toast and aspic jelly. 
 
 CANAPES BERNE, OR SWISS CANAPES— 
 Triangle-shaped pieces of toast spread with 
 anchovy butter, decorated with minced whites 
 of eggs down one side, yolks on the other, and 
 the third with minced green gherkins, and a 
 stuffed olive in the centre. 
 
 CANAPES OF CRAB— Circles of toast spread 
 with deviled crab meat, sprinkled with Parme- 
 san cheese and browned in the oven (called 
 CANAPE LORENZO). 
 
 CANAPES OF SMOKED SALMON— Strips of 
 toast spread with anchovy butter, a thin circle 
 of smoked salmon on top, the edges decorated 
 with hard boiled eggs minced and mixed with 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 CANAPES OF CHICKEN LIVERS— Chicken 
 
 livers sauteed with an onion till tender, then 
 pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy es- 
 sence, salt, red pepper and butter, piled in 
 pyramid form on fried shapes of bread, smoothed 
 with a knife and made hot in the oven ; served 
 decorated with slices of pimentoes and rings of 
 red chillies. 
 
 CANAPES OF SHRIMPS— Fancy shaped slices 
 of toast spread with shrimp paste and decorated 
 with coiled shrimps. 
 
 CANAPES OF POTTED TONGUE— Circles 
 of brown bread toast spread with potted tongue 
 and decorated in lattice form with strips of red 
 cooked tongue. 
 
 INDIAN CANAPES— Circles of bread fried in 
 butter, spread first with potted ham, then with 
 chutney, strewed with Parmesan cheese, 
 browned in the oven and served. 
 
 CANAPES OF POTTED HAM— Strips of toast 
 spread with potted ham, then sprinkled with 
 grated ham, decorated with thin slices of green 
 gherkins. 
 
 SARDINE CANAPES— Triangle-shaped pieces 
 of toast spread with a mixture of equal parts of 
 boiled egg yolks and sardines pounded to a 
 paste and seasoned with red pepper and lemon 
 juice, decorated with a coiled anchovy out of 
 oil in the centre. 
 
 CANAPES OF CAVIAR— Circles of toast, the 
 edges spread with anchovy butter, with an 
 onion ring as its base, the ring filled with Rus- 
 sian caviar. 
 
 OLIVE CANAPES— Circles of buttered toast 
 with a coiled anchovy on it, and a stuffed olive 
 in the centre of the coil. Also circles of toast 
 fried in butter, then spread with anchovy paste, 
 minced olives and capers on top. 
 
 CANAPE CHASSEUR— Triangle shaped pieces 
 of toast spread with a game forcemeat, the 
 edges decorated with another forcemeat of game 
 but of different color. 
 
 CANAPES OF OYSTERS — Strips of toast 
 spread with blanched and minced oysters mixed 
 into a Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with parsley 
 dust. Clams may be treated the same way and 
 named accordingly. 
 
 SAVORY CANAPES — Strips of toast spread 
 with a mixture of grated ham, cheese, cream 
 sauce and scrambled eggs, the edges decorated 
 with lobster coral. 
 
 CANAPE MADISON— Slices of toast on which 
 is laid a thin slice of lean ham spread with 
 French mustard, this again is spread with a 
 cold white sauce containing minced cooked 
 onions, garlic, and cheese; Parmesan cheese is 
 then dredged on top, sprinkled with fine bread 
 crumbs, baked and served. 
 
 CHICKEN CANAPES— Circles of toast spread 
 with chicken forcemeat in which is worked 
 cream and butter, dredged with Parmesan 
 cheese and baked, then decorated in the centre 
 with a stamped piece of white of egg. 
 
 CREOLE CANAPES— Grated lean ham, onion, 
 
36 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 garlic and chopped parsley with pieces of peeled 
 tomatoes and minced green peppers, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, stewed down dry, then 
 spread on strips of buttered toast, dredged 
 with Parmesan cheese and baked. 
 SCOTCH CANAPES— Breast of chicken, red 
 tongue and lean ham all cut into very small 
 dice, seasoned with nutmeg and a little curry 
 powder, then worked into a thick Veloute sauce, 
 spread on slices of toast, dredged with Parme- 
 san cheese and baked, (also called, CANAPE 
 ABERDEEN). 
 CANAPE WINDSOR— Strips of toast spread 
 with a forcemeat of any kind of white fleshed 
 fish, seasoned with mustard and Worcester- 
 shire sauce, dredged with Parmesan cheese and 
 baked. 
 CANAPE CABILLAUD— Triangle shaped pieces 
 of toast spread with a forcemeat made of boiled 
 salt codfish, mixed with minced green peppers 
 and spring onions seasoned with tarragon vine- 
 gar, decorated with capers. 
 MADRAS CANAPES— Circles of toast spread 
 with a mixture of finely minced white fleshed 
 fish, Madras chutney and sweet pickles, moist- 
 ened with Hollandaise sauce, dredged with 
 Parmesan cheese and baked, (also called, 
 CANAPE WINCHESTER). 
 CHEESE CANAPES— Strips of bread hollowed 
 out half their thickness, then toasted, the inner 
 part sprayed with Worcestershire sauce, the 
 cavity then fitted with a slice of Swiss cheese, 
 baked, and served very hot. 
 CANNELONS— Name given to hollow lengths of 
 noodle or puff paste made by twining strips of 
 the paste around a piece of pipe or tubing, 
 then either baked or fried, the pipe removed, 
 the cannelons may then be filled with force- 
 meats, croquette mixtures, creams, preserves, 
 etc. 
 CANARD — French name for wild duck. Cane- 
 ton for domestic duck or duckling. 
 CANNED GOODS — The following quotation 
 clipped from The Sanitarian is given for the 
 reader to form his own views: 
 "Under one heading we may consider several 
 groups of foodstuffs, which, while different in 
 composition, are alike in the form of adulteration 
 which is resorted to. These groups include the 
 varieties of canned vegetables, fruit butters, jel- 
 lies, preserves and catsups. The forms of adul- 
 terations, common to all of these, consist in the 
 use of coloring matter, of imperfect vegetables or 
 fruits, of other vegetables and fruits than those 
 called for of preservatives. In the case of can- 
 ned vegetables, there is an accidental adultera- 
 tion from the ingredients of the can, such as lead 
 and tin, and which may, as a rule, be attributed 
 to a lack of care in canning. In all the groups 
 mentioned, the adulteration practised is one of 
 the most flagrant and extensive kind. Catsups 
 are made of skins and cores instead of the pure 
 
 vegetables, then colored with a coal tar product 
 and loaded with salicylic acid to prevent fermen- 
 tation. Fruit butters are nothing but parings 
 and scrapings of fruit, to which glucose, starch 
 and colorings have been added, with salicylic 
 acid as a preservative. Jellies are made from 
 glucose, flavored with essential oils and colored, 
 to which salicylic acid is added. Some fruit 
 jellies marked as pure, have never seen a trace 
 of fruit. What is true of jellies is true of pre- 
 serves. Put together refuse material, the cheap- 
 est sort of glucose, some coloring and salicylic 
 acid, and you have the composition of some of 
 the cheaper forms of preserves that are to be 
 found on the shelves of some of our grocery 
 stores. Of these coarser forms of adulterations 
 it will be unnecessary to say even a word; they 
 are universally recognized as being unfit for use 
 and every honest dealer is of the opinion that tlie 
 sooner they are driven out of the market the 
 better it will be for trade." 
 
 CANTELOUPES— Are of different kinds in our 
 markets; although the "Nutmeg" is pronounced 
 the best, many have a distinct fancy for the 
 "Osage" with its thick yellow fruit. In select- 
 ing the nutmegs, those which have a thick 
 broad cording on the rind, and with the section 
 marks inclined to a yellow color, will be found 
 the best fruit. To be served they are first kept 
 on ice, then scrubbed or washed, split in halves 
 lengthwise, pith and seeds removed, and the 
 cavity filled with small broken ice; eaten by 
 some with powdered sugar, by others with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 CAPERCAILZIE— A game bird of the grouse 
 species, the male bird differing greatly from 
 the hen in that it attains to twice the size, has 
 dark brown wings, and a dark greeny gold neck, 
 while the hen in appearance and plumage is 
 very like a prairie hen. This bird must always 
 be hung for a week or so to become tender; it 
 may then be cooked in all the ways of prairie 
 chickens. 
 
 CAPERS — Are a berry of a plant cultivated in 
 Europe and not in America; are spoken of in 
 the bible as "hyssop". They are imported 
 here in five sizes: "Nonpariels", "Capotes", 
 'Capuchins", "Seconds" and "Thirds", in 
 bottles and in bulk, the latter way being the 
 cheapest for hotel use. Capers, however, are 
 often mixed by Unscrupulous dealers with 
 "nasturtium" berries which resemble them in 
 size and appearance. The caper is only used 
 for making sauces, or in garnishing. 
 
 CAPONS — Are young fowls that have been steri- 
 lized, secluded and fattened, which improves 
 the delicacy and flavor of their flesh, and also 
 allows them to grow to a much larger size. 
 They are best in the fall of the year. The city 
 of Philadelphia seems to have got the name of 
 producing the best, and when placed on the 
 bill of fare, no matter what part of the country, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 37 
 
 are generally designated, "Philadelphia Ca- 
 pon". 
 
 ROAST CAPON STUFFED WITH RICE— 
 Draw, singe and wash the birds, wiped dry, 
 the inside filled with rice that has been boiled 
 in stock; seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg 
 and a few herbs; when filled, trussed, breast 
 covered with bacon and tied with string, 
 roasted and basted; when nearly done, the 
 bacon removed, the breast browned; served 
 garnished with watercress, and some Veloute 
 sauce. 
 
 ROAST CAPONS WITH NOODLES — The 
 birds drawn, singed, washed and trussed, the 
 breast filled with a savory stuffing, bacon tied 
 over the breast, then roasted; served with some 
 boiled noodles that are mixed into Allemande 
 sauce, with a little Parmesan cheese at one 
 end, and Allemande sauce at the other. 
 
 BRAISED CAPON WITH CHIPOLATA GAR- 
 NISH — Capons drawn, singed, washed, wiped, 
 larded on the breast, trussed, put in sauce pan 
 with vegetables, herbs and spices, moistened 
 half way up with white stock and a glass of 
 white wine, covered with buttered paper, 
 braised till done and glazy. Served garnished 
 with small sausages, blanched and peeled chest- 
 nuts, button mushrooms, small glazed onions 
 and pieces of cooked bacon all made hot in a 
 good roast fowl gravy. 
 
 BRAISED CAPONS, SAUCE SUPREME — 
 Prepared and braised as in the preceding; 
 served with Supreme sauce poured around, and 
 decorated with strips of cooked tongue and 
 watercress. 
 
 ROAST CAPON STUFFED, GIBLET SAUCE 
 - -The birds prepared, then filled with a savory 
 stuffing, trussed, bacon tied over the breast, 
 roasted and basted till done, bacon then re- 
 moved, and the breast quickly browned; served 
 with a sauce made from the residue of the 
 roasting pan, with minced and sauteed giblets 
 worked into it; garnished with watercress. 
 
 BOILED CAPON WITH SALT PORK — The 
 capon prepared and the breast filled with 
 chicken forcemeat, then trussed, boiled in white 
 stock with a piece of salt pork, served with a 
 sauce poured aiound, made from the stock it 
 was boiled in, to which is added chopped pars- 
 ley and flanked with thin slices of pork. 
 
 BRAISED CAPONS WITH TOMATOED 
 RICE — The birds prepared, the breast cov- 
 ered with bacon, braised with vegetables and 
 spices; when done, taken up, and the braise 
 strained, skimmed, and added to a Veloute 
 sauce. Rice boiled in chicken stock till done, 
 drained, mixed with a tomato puree; served 
 with a small mold of the rice turned out on end 
 of dish with some of the sauce poured around. 
 
 BRAISED CAPONS WITH QUENELLES, 
 SAUCE PERIGUEUX— Prepared and braised 
 as in the preceding, the braise strained, skim- 
 med, reduced to glaze, then mixed into a Peri- 
 
 gueux sauce; served with the sauce poured 
 around, and garnished with small quenelles of 
 chicken dipped into parsley sauce. 
 
 BOILED CAPON, MUSHROOM SAUCE — 
 The birds drawn, washed, singed and trussed, 
 bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
 stock, sauce made from the stock, some mush- 
 room puree worked into it, also some whole 
 button mushrooms that have been sauteed in 
 butter; served surrounded with the mushrooms 
 in sauce. 
 
 STEWED CAPON WITH VEGETABLES— 
 The birds prepared, then disjointed into por- 
 tion pieces, lightly fried in butter, then ar- 
 ranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, onions 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs, moistened with 
 stock and a glass of Madeira wine, stewed 
 slowly till tender; served garnished with a 
 macedoine of vegetables made hot in Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 BOILED CAPON WITH TONGUE AND 
 CAULIFLOWER — The birds prepared and 
 boiled as in Boiled Capon, Mushroom Sauce; 
 served with a slice of braised smoked tongue, 
 and garnished with flowerets of cauliflower in 
 Bechamel sauce. 
 
 BOILED CAPON WITH MILANAISE GAR- 
 NISH — Prepared and boiled as above, and 
 served surrounded with a garnish of boiled 
 macaroni in inch lengths, with strips of cooked 
 tongue, sliced mushrooms and minced truffle 
 peelings made hot in a Veloute sauce. 
 
 BOILED STUFFED CAPON, CELERY 
 SAUCE — The birds prepared, then stuffed 
 with celery, the skin rubbed with lemon juice, 
 bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white 
 stock, sauce made from it, into which is worked 
 strips of blanched celery about an inch long, 
 the celery then simmered in the sauce till ten- 
 der; served with the sauce poured around, and 
 garnished with green celery tops. 
 
 CAPSICUMS— Are better known as chillies or 
 peppers; they are of two shapes, the long thin 
 dark red, which is used in vinegars, pickles, 
 and to grind into red pepper; and the 
 round green bell shaped, which is generally 
 stuffed and baked, or cut up into many sauces, 
 soups and garnitures. 
 
 CARAMEL — Is a term used by cooks for burnt 
 sugar thinned with water, and used to color 
 soups, sauces, gravies, syrups, icecreams, etc., 
 that require a brown tint without a pronounced 
 flavoring. 
 
 CARBONADE — A French term applied to denote 
 a stew composed of cold meats, generally sea- 
 soned with onions and garlic, such as carbonade 
 of beef, mutton, etc. 
 
 CARAWAY — Name of seeds of a wild plant used 
 in distilling, for cordial and cake flavoring. 
 
 CARDINAL— Name applied to foods, sauces and 
 drinks, that are colored a bright red. 
 
 CARDOONS — A vegetable resembling sea-kale, 
 but the stalks are feathery, Plentifully grown 
 
38 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
 may be treated the same as sea- 
 
 in Canada; 
 kale. 
 
 CARMINE — A red coloring used for syrups, 
 sauces, cakes, etc., obtained from the cochineal 
 insect; made by bruising four ounces of coch- 
 ineal insects and soaking for a few minutes in 
 three pints of cold water, then put to boil with 
 two ounces of common washing soda; when 
 boiling, removed to where it simmers only, 
 then slowly is added two ounces of rock alum, 
 then four ounces of cream of tartar, boiled up 
 for two minutes, strained, and when cold, 
 bottled for use. 
 
 CARP — A fresh water fish, in season from Sep- 
 tember to May; is highly esteemed, anduts roe 
 is nearly equal to that of the Shad. 
 
 BAKED CARP, SAUCE MATELOTE— The 
 fish scaled and trimmed, filled with savory stuf- 
 fing, sewn up, scored into cutting portions, the 
 back dipped in beaten eggs, then in bread 
 crumbs, laid in pan, back sprinkled with melted 
 butter, moistened with a little red wine and 
 consomme, a few slices of onions added, slowly 
 baked till done, taken up, the residue of the 
 pan strained into a matelote sauce, the fish 
 served with it, and garnished with Duchesse 
 potatoes. 
 
 BAKED CARP, SAUCE GENOISE— The fish 
 scaled, trimmed and stuffed as above, sewn up, 
 scored, baked in Genoise sauce, served with it, 
 and garnished with potatoes Bignonne. 
 
 BRAISED STUFFED CARP, SAUCE ALLE- 
 MANDE — The fish scaled, trimmed, stuffed 
 with fish forcemeat, sewn up, the skin then 
 spread with more forcemeat, placed in a sau- 
 toir with vegetables and spices, moistened with 
 fish stock and white wine, covered with buttered 
 paper, slowly braised till done, taken up, braise 
 strained, skimmed, and added to an Allemande 
 sauce, served with it, and garnished with Hol- 
 landaise potatoes. 
 
 BOILED CARP, CAPER SAUCE— The fish 
 scaled and trimmed, either left whole, or cut 
 into portions, placed in sautoir with an onion 
 stuck with cloves and a bunch of herbs, cov- 
 ered with good beef gravy and a little port wine, 
 boiled slowly till done, sauce made from the 
 liquor it was boiled in; when done, capers and 
 caper vinegar added to it; served with the fish, 
 garnished with Conde potatoes. 
 
 BROILED CARP, LEMON PARSLEY BUT- 
 TER — The fish scaled, trimmed, washed, dried 
 and filleted, scored across the skin, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then dip- 
 ped in olive oi!, broiled, served with Maitre 
 D'Hotel butter poured over and garnished with 
 chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. 
 
 BROILED STUFFED CARP.FINES-HERBES 
 SAUCE — Fish a pound each in weight, scaled, 
 trimmed and washed, filled with a forcemeat 
 made of minced mushrooms, small pieces of 
 any cooked fish, chopped parsley, hard boiled 
 
 eggs, minced chives and shallots, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg; sewn up, scored, 
 rolled in oil paper, and slowly broiled till done 
 through; served with fines-herbes sauce poured 
 over and garnished with Julienne potatoes. 
 
 FRIED CARP, PIQUANTE SAUCE— The fish 
 scaled, trimmed, washed, dried, rubbed with 
 lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in flour, dipped in beaten eggs, fried; 
 served with Piquante sauce poured around, 
 garnished with lemon and parsley, and sur- 
 rounded with Parisienne potatoes. 
 
 BOILED CARP ROES, SAUCE SUPREME— 
 The roes washed, then steeped for an hour in 
 cold water with vinegar, slowly boiled in light 
 consomme with lemon juice in it; served with 
 supreme sauce poured over, and garnished with 
 potatoes Anglaise. 
 
 FRIED CARP ROES, SAUCE TARTARE— 
 The roes washed and steeped as above, then 
 blanched in salted vinegar water, taken out and 
 wiped dry, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 lemon juice, breaded, fried; served with tartar 
 sauce poured around, garnished with lemon, 
 parsley and chip potatoes. 
 
 SCALLOPED CARP ROES IN SHELL— The 
 roes cleansed, steeped and blanched, then 
 boiled in salted vinegar water till done; taken 
 up, cut into dice with mushrooms, put into a 
 Veloute sauce with a little lobster coral, then 
 filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with bread 
 crumbs and melted butter, baked and served. 
 
 PATTIES OF CARP ROES— The preceding 
 mixture filled into patty shells; served with the 
 top sprinkled with lobster coral, and Veloute 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 CARP SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE— The fish 
 a pound each in weight, scaled, trimmed, 
 washed, dried, scored, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, rolled in flour, slowly fried in butter 
 till done; served surrounded with Admiral 
 sauce, garnished with parsley, lemon and Vic- 
 toria potatoes. 
 
 CARROTS — A vegetable that in this country en- 
 ters into almost every soup, sauce, ragout, etc., 
 for its flavor, and in the early summer when 
 new and about two inches long, are relished as 
 an accompaniment to fresh boiled beef, New 
 England dinner, etc. 
 
 NEW CARROTS IN CREAM — The carrots 
 washed and scraped, then boiled tender in boil- 
 ing salted water, taken up and drained, then 
 simmered in reduced cream or thin cream 
 sauce; served as a vegetable. 
 
 SAUTE OF NEW CARROTS— Washed, scraped 
 and boiled as above, then sauteed in butter, 
 taken up, and mixed into Maitre D'Hotel but- 
 ter; served as a garnish. 
 
 BRAISED NEW CARROTS, PARSLEY 
 SAUCE — The carrots washed and scraped, 
 then braised in consomme to a glaze, taken up; 
 served on small platters with some parsley 
 sauce at the end, as a vegetable. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 39 
 
 GLAZED NEW CARROTS WITH BUTTER 
 — Prepared and glazed as in the preceding, 
 taken up, dipped in melted butter and used as 
 a garnish. 
 
 NEW CARROTS IN BROWN GRAVY — 
 Glazed as above, taken up, put into a rich 
 brown gravy; served as a garnish sprinkled 
 with parsley, or as a vegetable. 
 
 STEWED CARROTS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
 New carrots cored with a column cutter, then 
 cut in thin slices, stewed in consomme till 
 tender; green peas boiled in salted water with 
 a bunch of fresh mint, strained off when done, 
 and mixed with the carrots; served as a vege- 
 table. 
 
 NEW CARROTS IN POULETTE SAUCE— 
 Washed and scraped, then boiled in boiling 
 salted water till tender, drained off and then 
 mixed into Poulette sauce and served as a 
 vegetable. 
 
 CURRIED CARROTS WITH RICE— Vegetar- 
 ian entree — The carrots prepared and cooked 
 (as in Braised New Carrots, Parsley Sauce), 
 then taken up and mixed into a good curry 
 sauce made of cream; served in the center of a 
 border of dry boiled rice. 
 
 CARROT SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS 
 — The carrots glazed and when cold the tips 
 dipped into Ravigote sauce, arranged alter- 
 nately on dish with points of asparagus sprink- 
 led with Vinaigrette sauce, and garnished with 
 shred lettuce. 
 
 CARROT SOUP— Plenty of carrots with a few 
 soup vegetables boiled in stock with a piece of 
 corned beef; when meat is done, taken up, the 
 soup then made thick with roux, then rubbed 
 through a fine sieve, boiled up again, seasoned 
 and skimmed; served with croutons, (called, 
 PUREE CRECY). 
 
 CARVING— To carve a LOIN OF MUTTON 
 OR VEAL, begin at the small end and cut 
 between the ribs. A FILLET OF VEAL 
 should be cut first from the top, and in a 
 BREAST OF VEAL, the breast and brisket 
 should first be separated, then cut across. A 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF should be placed with 
 the tenderloin down, thin cut slices should be 
 cut from the side next the carver, then turn 
 over the roast and carve from underneath; a 
 slice of both should be served. In restaurants 
 the sirloin is generally all used up in Porter- 
 house steaks. A RIB ROAST should be put 
 on the carving table thick end down and stand- 
 ing upright, the first two ribs cut off to be used 
 for well done orders, the chine removed, and 
 broad level thin slices served, with gravy 
 poured under. SHORT RIBS should be 
 served with the bone left in. A LEG OF 
 MUTTON should be carved across the middle 
 of the bone first and then from the thickest 
 part till the gristle is reached. A few nice 
 slices can be cut from the smaller end, but it 
 is usually hard and stringy. A HAM can be 
 
 served in several ways: by cutting long delicate 
 slices through the thick fat down to the bone; 
 by running the point of the knife in a circle in 
 the middle and cutting thin circular slices, 
 thus keeping the ham moist; or, by beginning 
 at the knuckle end and slicing upwards; the 
 latter is the most economical. A TONGUE 
 should be carved in very thin slices, its delicacy 
 depending upon this; the slices from the center 
 are considered the most tempting, and should 
 be cut across and the slices taken from both 
 sides with a portion of the fat from the root. 
 In carving FISH, practice is required in order 
 to prevent the flakes from breaking; the choic- 
 est morsels of all large fish are near the head, 
 the thin parts come next; the flavor nearest 
 the bone is never equal to that on the upper 
 part; a fish knife should always be used. 
 FOWLS should be placed breast up, the fork 
 put into the breast to steady the bird, then cut 
 off the wings and legs, cut out the breast bone 
 so as to leave a well browned skin over it and 
 the white meat, cut off the side bones and di- 
 vide what is left in two from the neck down, 
 remove the second joint from the leg and wing. 
 TENDERLOINS should have the tip cut off 
 and then cut in medium thick slices across. 
 HEARTS should be cut wedge shaped with 
 some of the dressing. FOREQUARTERS 
 OF LAMB should have the shoulder lifted off, 
 and a slice of the shoulder and rib served to- 
 gether. GOOSE should be carved lengthwise 
 of the breast from the point downwards. 
 DUCKLINGS should simply be cut into four 
 quarters. DUCKS carved same as goose. 
 PARTRIDGE and PHEASANTS same as fowls 
 if large; if small partridge, split lengthwise in 
 three, removing the backbone of the center cut. 
 SQUABS, PLOVERS and QUAIL split length- 
 wise in halves. All SMALL GAME left whole. 
 
 CASSEROLE — French name for a saucepan. It 
 is also the name of a metal or earthenware 
 tureen with a flat bottom, fitted with lid and 
 handles. Various entrees are cooked and 
 served "en casserole", thus forming a pot roast 
 or kind of braise. 
 
 CASSOLETTE — Are small cups formed of rice 
 croquette mixture either sweet or savory; when 
 formed, either rolled in flour only, or else 
 breaded and fried; made to hold entrees, jel- 
 lies, fruits, etc. 
 
 CASSIA — Is the name of a small tree which 
 yields a bark that has less aroma, but is hard 
 otherwise to detect from cinnamon; it is ground 
 and made into oils and extracts, and passed off 
 for cinnamon generally without detection. 
 
 CATFISH — Are of two kinds or main varieties, 
 the "sea catfish" and "river catfish". Both 
 are good for food, yet they are not of the same 
 species. They are seldom, if ever, put on 
 hotel bills of fare other than as "Fried catfish", 
 "Catfish saute", "Braised catfish with toma- 
 toes", etc., or as "Catfish chowder". 
 
4° 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BOILED CAULIFLOWER, HOLLANDAISE 
 SAUCE— The cauliflower trimmed, laid in 
 salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted 
 boiling water with a dash of vinegar in it till 
 tender, taken up and drained; served with 
 Hollandaise sauce poured around; may also be 
 served this way with tomato sauce. 
 
 STEWED CAULIFLOWER— The cauliflower 
 prepared and boiled as above, then taken up 
 and sectioned, arranged in a sautoir, covered 
 with butter sauce and simmered; served as a 
 vegetable. 
 
 BAKED CAULIFLOWER— Stewed as in the 
 preceding, then placed into baking dish, cov- 
 ered with bread crumbs and grated cheese, 
 sprinkled with butter and baked. 
 
 SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER— Same as the 
 preceding, but filled into scallop shells instead 
 of baking dish; served in the shells. 
 
 FRIED CAULIFLOWER, ALLEMANDE 
 SAUCE — The stewed cauliflower above, taken 
 up, dipped into batter and fried; served with 
 Allemande sauce poured around. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER WITH MAYONNAISE — 
 Cold boiled cauliflower in flowerets, marinaded 
 in French dressing, arranged on a leaf of let- 
 tuce around the dish, with mayonnaise in the 
 center. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SALAD— Cold boiled cauli- 
 flowerets covered with cream salad dressing, 
 arranged in center of dish, garnished with small 
 balls of beets. 
 
 PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER— One-third Ve- 
 loute sauce, one-third chicken stock, mixed and 
 brought to the boil, minced cauliflower stalks 
 and roots boiled in it till tender with a little 
 thyme and parsley; when done, rubbed through 
 a fine sieve, brought to the boil again and one- 
 third of the whole of cream sauce then added; 
 served with croutons. 
 
 CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER— Same as the 
 preceding, but when finished, very small flow- 
 erets added before serving. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SAUCE— Into a good butter 
 sauce is worked some very small flowerets of 
 boiled cauliflower with a little puree, (good for 
 boiled poultry). 
 
 PICKLED CAULIFLOWER — Cauliflowers 
 boiled till tender in flowerets, then put into 
 jars, and covered with the following pickle: 
 One pound of dry mustard mixed with one 
 ounce of turmeric, then moistened with vinegar. 
 One gallon of vinegar brought to the boil, the 
 mustard and turmeric paste stirred into it, 
 brought to the simmer and when beginning to 
 thicken, one pound of sugar, half a pint of olive 
 oil, and two ounces of mustard seed succes- 
 sively added to it, simmered for a few minutes, 
 then poured boiling hot over the cauliflowers 
 in the jars. 
 
 CAVIAR — Is a preparation made from the roes 
 of sturgeon, can be bought at the grocery stores 
 
 in cans; it is considered by epicuies to be one 
 of the finest of appetizers. 
 CAVIAR ON TOAST WITH OLIVES — One 
 part each of Russian caviar, soft bread crumbs, 
 and blanched and peeled Jordan almonds mixed 
 together and minced into a paste, spread on 
 strips of toast, the edges garnished with slices 
 of stoned olives. 
 CAVIAR TARTINES— Russian caviar spread 
 on toast, and the edges decorated with finely 
 chopped green gherkins, parsley and sweet 
 peppers mixed together. 
 CANAPES OF CAVIAR— Circles of toast, the 
 edges spread with anchovy paste, with an onion 
 ring as its base, the ring filled with Russian 
 caviar. 
 EGGS STUFFED WITH CAVIAR— Cut slices 
 of hard boiled eggs, the yolks removed, its 
 place filled with Russian caviar; served on thin 
 slices of buttered brown bread. 
 CAVIAR WITH EGG— Slices of toast, the edges 
 piped with beaten whites of eggs, caviar 
 sprinkled on top, whole yolk of raw egg dropped 
 in the center, baked till set, and served hot. 
 CAVIAR CROUSTADES— Very small paste 
 croustades half an inch deep filled with caviar, 
 on it placed a freshly opened blue point oyster; 
 served garnished with lemon and watercress. 
 CELERY — Is an aromatic plant cultivated largely 
 as a flavoring vegetable and for uses of salads. 
 It is generally sent to table in a raw condition, 
 is the one and proper thing to eat with "canvas 
 back duck". Kalamazoo, Michigan, is the 
 great celery raising spot in this country. When 
 the celery industry was started in Kalamazoo, 
 it was not for several years that the enterpris- 
 ing pioneers in this industry discovered that 
 the thousands of acres of river bottom lands 
 surrounding the city were especially adapted 
 in the raising of celery to the pinnacle of es- 
 teem and popular favor it now holds. Visitors 
 to Kalamazoo ate it, and carried away marve- 
 lous tales of its delicacy, orders to purchase 
 and forward were sent back to friends and ex- 
 press agents, and the industry that was destined 
 to make Kalamazoo famous as the celery city 
 was born. At the present time there are thous- 
 ands of acres under cultivation, and celery 
 finds its way from Kalamazoo to every part of 
 the United States and special shipments have 
 been sent by steamer to Liverpool and London. 
 In raising celery the seed is first sown during 
 the winter months in specially prepared hot 
 houses, of which there are acres under glass, 
 the plants are transplanted, thinned out, and 
 about the first of May are again transplanted 
 to the fields, being planted in specially prepared 
 trenches in double rows. There it is carefully 
 looked after, cultivated and irrigated, and when 
 of the proper size, the rich black soil is drawn 
 up around the plants from both sides, until it 
 forms a bank reaching nearly to the top of the 
 leaves. About fourteen days is required for 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 4i 
 
 the plant to acquire that silvery whiteness and 
 delicate crispness so enjoyed by every lover of 
 celery. The shipping season then commences, 
 and celery is taken from the fields to the pack- 
 ing rooms, carefully washed and tied in bunches 
 of twelve heads each, packed and delivered to 
 the express company for shipment. The fall 
 crop, which is abundant later, is taken from 
 the fields about the first of November, and is 
 placed in specially constructed houses for pre- 
 servation during the cold weather months. The 
 season usually commences about the first of 
 July and closes about February. From its 
 start as the appetizer, in front of a good dinner, 
 its rare beauty as a table ornament, etc., the 
 rise of celery to popular appreciation was rapid. 
 The use of celery and its adaptability in the 
 preparation of table condiments is well seen on 
 the grocers' shelves. There is canned celery 
 for cooking only; chopped celery put up in such 
 a manner as to retain its crispness and good 
 quality for use at any time in the preparation 
 of salads; celery pickles, celery mustard, celery 
 salt, celery pepper, celery extracts and tonic, 
 in fact everything that can be manufactured 
 from it in any way. Chopped and canned 
 celery are especially adapted to the wants of 
 the "Chef" as they are always ready at any 
 season of the year, and particularly useful are 
 they at the season when good celery is not ob- 
 tainable. There is also manufactured a pre- 
 pared salad ready for the table, whose flavor 
 and excellence is as surprising as it is delicious. 
 
 CREAM OF CELERY— Into a good veal or 
 chicken stock is put a knuckle of ham, a few 
 onions, plenty of outside stalks of celery, and a 
 few blades of mace; boiled till celery is soft, 
 ham then taken out and the soup thickened 
 with roux and rubbed through a fine sieve, 
 boiled up again with the addition of an equal 
 quantity of Bechamel sauce, seasoned and 
 served (also called puree). 
 
 PUREE OF CELERY AND ONIONS — Same 
 as the preceding, but using a puree of onions 
 or sauce soubise to add with the celery puree, 
 instead of Bechamel. 
 
 CELERY CONSOMME— The vegetables in the 
 consomme stock composed mostly of celery, to 
 give it a pronounced flavor; when strained and 
 skimmed, Julienne strips of boiled celery added 
 to it, seasoned and served. 
 
 STEWED CELERY ON TOAST— Celery stalks 
 all cut about the same size like asparagus, 
 boiled tender in salted water, taken up and 
 arranged in a sautoir, moistened with Veloute 
 sauce, simmered; served with one end resting 
 on toast, with some of the sauce poured over 
 the ends. 
 
 CELERY PATTIES— The hearts of eight heads 
 of celery boiled till tender, drained, then 
 pounded to a paste with a cupful each of grated 
 ham, cream, and fine bread crumbs seasoned 
 
 with salt, pepper and a little butter, the mix- 
 ture steamed till it thickens, then filled into 
 patty cases and served hot. 
 
 BAKED CELERY WITH CHEESE— The cel- 
 ery cut into inch lengths like macaroni, boiled 
 in salted water till tender, drained, mixed with 
 a little grated ham and chopped green celery 
 leaves, arranged in layers in baking dish, each 
 layer sprinkled with grated cheese; when full, 
 moistened with Veloute sauce, sprinkled with 
 grated bread crumbs mixed with cheese, then 
 with melted butter and baked. 
 
 CELERY WITH MARROW— The stewed cel- 
 ery (as in Stewed Celery on Toast) served on 
 toast spread with marrow; served garnished 
 with slices of cooked marrow. 
 
 FRIED CELERY, SAUCE VILLEROI— Three- 
 inch lengths of celery stalk boiled not quite 
 done in salted water, drained, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, breaded and fiied; served with 
 Villeroi sauce poured around. 
 
 BOILED CELERY WITH ONIONS — Stalks 
 of celery about three inches long, small onions 
 of an even size, both boiled together in veal 
 stock till tender; served, the celery on toast 
 masked with Bechamel sauce, garnished with 
 onions. 
 
 CELERY FRITTERS — Celery stalks three 
 inches long, tied in bundles three stalks thick, 
 boiled till tender in salted water, taken up and 
 drained, seasoned with salt, pepper ard Par- 
 mesan cheese, string removed, dipped in batter 
 and fried; served as a vegetable. 
 
 BRAISED CELERY ON TOAST— Celery stalks 
 all of an even size, boiled not quite done in 
 salted water, then arranged in a sautoir, and 
 moistened with strong chicken stock and a 
 piece of glaze, stewed down rich; served on 
 toast with the glaze poured over it. 
 
 CELERY SAUTE— Celery stalks of an even size, 
 blanched, then arranged in a sautoir with some 
 bacon trimmings and a minced shallot, heated 
 thoroughly, then moistened with equal parts of 
 tomato and Espagnole sauces, simmered till 
 done; served on toast with the sauce poured 
 over. 
 
 MAYONNAISE OF CELERY— The tender parts 
 only should be used by cutting them into pencil 
 strips an inch long, washing thoroughly, then 
 drained and mixed with mayonnaise; served on 
 a leaf of lettuce. 
 
 CELERIAC--A form of celery with a bulbous 
 root, used as a salad and for flavoring, but little 
 used in hotel work. 
 
 CEPES— A strongly flavored flat headed mush- 
 room, imported in cans, preserved in olive oil. 
 
 SAUTE OF CEPES ON TOAST — Drained 
 from their oil, lightly fried in pan, when thor- 
 oughly heated, sprinkled with lemon juice and 
 chopped parsley, arranged on toast, and served 
 very hot. 
 
 STEWED CEPES ON TOAST— The cepes 
 drained from their oil and then cut in slices, 
 
42 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 arranged in a sautoir with chopped parsley, 
 minced onions and garlic, moistened with Es- 
 pagnole sauce, simmered; served on toast with 
 sauce around. 
 
 BROILED CEPES ON TOAST— Drained from 
 their oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
 in fresh bread crumbs, broiled; served on toast 
 with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them, 
 and garnished with lemon and parsley. 
 
 OMELET WITH CEPES— The cepes drained, 
 cut in slices, fried in butter with a crushed 
 clove of garlic, taken up and mixed with a little 
 Colbert sauce; served enclosed in a savory 
 omelet, with more of the cepes in sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 CERCELLES — The French name sometimes 
 seen on bills of fare for "Teal". 
 
 CERVELAS — The French name for a highly 
 spiced small sausage of the bologna order; can 
 be purchased at the Italian and Delicatessen 
 stores. 
 
 CEREALINE — A white flaky pudding material 
 prepared from Indian corn; also boiled plain 
 and eaten with cream as a breakfast cereal; 
 made into puddings according to the various 
 recipes of the vendors, printed on the sides of 
 the packets in which it is sold. 
 
 CERVELLES — French name for animal brains, 
 for recipes, see "brains". 
 
 CHABLIS — The name of a white French wine, 
 principally used for cooking purposes, but some 
 of the brands of the genuine article are highly 
 prized for their digestive and health giving 
 qualities, such as Montrachet, Clos, Blanchot 
 and Moutonne. 
 
 CHAFING DISH— A vessel heated from the 
 underneath by a spirit lamp, also by electricity; 
 is used for keeping and serving foods hot, or 
 cooking on the table; for recipes, see "Chafing 
 Dish Cookery" in the ' 'CHEF'S REMINDER". 
 
 CHAMPAGNE— A wine prepared from grapes; 
 the best varieties are manufactured at Epernay, 
 Rheims and Mareuil in France, but the vin- 
 tages of each year are vastly different, and 
 sometimes the grape crop is a dismal failure. 
 Hence champagne drinkers in Europe and 
 Great Britain are versed on the merits and de- 
 merits of the various vintages. While in the 
 United States, but very little attention has thus 
 far been paid to the matter; the following clip- 
 ping from the Hotel World of London, Eng- 
 land, will doubtless be of interest: 
 
 Yield in 
 Year gallons Character of the wines 
 
 1891 3,548,292 Passable, but very dear. 
 1890 5,573,(556 Ordinary quality, 
 1889 6,109,994 Very good, price excessively high. 
 1888 4,639,098 Passable. 
 18^7 10,409,278 Fairly good, light. . 
 
 1886 6,525,398 Some good wines, with abundance of vln- 
 osity; but for the most part the vintage 
 is under suspicion, which time has not so 
 far lessened. 
 8,199.070 Mediocre, resembling the 1883's. 
 11,528,916 Fine elegant wines, highly prized by con- 
 noisseurs. 
 9,051. 4G0 Mediocre and dear; acid. 
 7,0a8 568 Mediocre; acid; immature. 
 14,627,140 Passable. 
 
 1879 
 
 2.008.776 
 
 1878 
 
 11,898,546 
 
 1877 
 
 10,407.694 
 
 1876 
 
 16,120,786 
 
 1875 
 
 21.710,346 
 
 1874 
 
 8,178,544 
 
 1873 
 
 3,138.718 
 
 1872 
 
 4,480,960 
 
 1871 
 
 5,465,306 
 
 1870 
 
 4960.010 
 
 1869 
 
 8.542.886 
 
 1868 
 
 12,316,700 
 
 1867 
 
 3.889,356 
 
 1866 
 
 19.449.870 
 
 1865 
 
 14,314,542 
 
 1880 2,423,236 Very good; lighter than the 1874's, exces- 
 sively dear. 
 
 Complete fa'.lure, yield small, fortunately 
 
 Good; line ; light. 
 
 Mediocre; acid. 
 
 Mediocre. 
 
 Passable. 
 
 Very fine, both as to vlnosity and color. 
 has teen greatly sought after. 
 
 Bad; acid, and notwithstanding that, dear. 
 
 Fairly good. 
 
 Mediocre. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Passable. 
 
 Very good, elegant, and lighter than the 
 1865's. 
 
 Mediocre. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Wine of superior quality ; very vinous. 
 
 CHANTILLY — Is the title given by confectioners 
 to a form of basket made of cakes, choux paste, 
 candied peels, almond paste, etc., filled with 
 whipped cream. Chantilly cream is simply 
 whipped cream. 
 
 CHANTILLY SOUP— Fresh green peas, a bunch 
 of fresh mint, some green onion tops and a 
 piece of salt pork boiled together in good chick- 
 en stock; when done the pork removed, the 
 stock thickened with roux, then rubbed through 
 a sieve, the puree boiled up again and seasoned; 
 served with croutons. 
 
 CHARCOAL— One of the kitchen essentials for 
 good broiling, should be kept dry in a good 
 cellar; often times bought by the load, the load 
 presumed to contain so many bushels; when 
 happening to be delivered as many things are 
 in bulk, during the steward's absence, the fol- 
 lowing capacities of cribs and boxes for pota- 
 toes and other root vegetables, coal, charcoal, 
 etc., will be found reliable and useful: 
 [The United States standard (Winchester) 
 
 bushel, 18^ inches in diameter, and 8 inches 
 
 deep, contains 2150.42 cubic inches] 
 One cubic foot equals four fifths of a bushel. 
 
 A box 3x3x3 — 27 cubic feet 
 
 and holds 21 3/5 bushels 
 
 A box 5x3x2 — 30 " " 
 
 n 
 
 A box 5xlx3 — 45 " " 
 
 36 
 
 A box 5x3x4 — 60 " " 
 
 " " 48 
 
 A box 7x.S.\3.9 — 13134 " " 
 
 •' 104 1/3 " 
 
 A box 7x7x7 — 343 " " 
 
 '• 1,74 2/5 " 
 
 A box 8x8x8 — 512 " " 
 
 " 40J3/5 " 
 
 A box 10x10x10— 1000 " " 
 
 " 800 " 
 
 1885 
 
 1884 
 
 1883 
 1882 
 1881 
 
 CHARLOTTE — Is the name given to what might 
 be called a shell of bread, cake, lady fingers, 
 etc., cut to fit into a mold or pan, which is then 
 filled with fruits, creams, custards, etc. 
 
 CHARTREUSE — Is the name of a liqueur made 
 in three colors, green, yellow and white; origi- 
 nally made by the monks of a French monastery 
 at Dauphine, in the Alps mountains. There 
 are, however, dishes dedicated to these monks, 
 called "chartreuses"; they are made of various 
 rich foods, such as prairie hens, fish, partridges, 
 larks, snipe, squabs, chickens, fruits, etc., en- 
 closed in a mold or shell of a much more com- 
 mon material, being a disguise, inasmuch as 
 the monks were under severe dicipline, and 
 were supposed to be very frugal. Recipes for 
 chartreuses will be found under the respective 
 food which demands it. 
 
 CHASSEUR— Is the French word for "hunter"; 
 a la Chasseur means hunter's style, sauce 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 43 
 
 Chasseur, hunter's sauce, made from the pro- 
 ceeds of the hunt. 
 
 CHATEAUBRIAND— Is the name given to a 
 style of cooking a tenderloin steak between two 
 others of inferior cuts and then pressing the 
 juice of the two outside ones over the fillet. 
 But some cooks simply take a fillet steak, split, 
 stuff and broil it, serve it with a Maitre D'Hotel 
 butter mixed with beef glaze, and call that 
 "Chateaubriand". History says the first is 
 right. 
 
 CHAUDFROID— Literally means hot-cold, and 
 is applied to dishes that are prepared hot, then 
 made into a form more suitable to eat cold, 
 such as chaudfroid of game, fowl, partridge, 
 woodcocks, larks, reedbirds, pheasants, plovers, 
 quail and turkey, for recipes of which see the 
 sub-heading of the articles mentioned. 
 
 CHEESE — A most nutritious food, forming many 
 excellent dishes; it is of various kinds, of which 
 the following are to be found in good hotels: 
 Skim, cream, full cream, cheddar, stilton, 
 roquefort, camembert, brie, neufchatel, par- 
 mesan, edam, gorgonzola, gruyere, port-du- 
 salut, sage, sap-sago, and sometimes on the bar 
 and in German clubs may be found Limburger, 
 to describe which the following story will aid 
 without further comment: 
 
 LIMBURGER CHEESE— Ma sent me to pay a bill at the 
 grocers last Saturday. The bos behind the counter made 
 me a present of something wrapped In a piece of silver 
 paper, which he told me was a piece of Limburger cheese. 
 When I got outside the shop I opened the paper, and when 
 1 smelt what was inside I felt tired. I took It home and put 
 It in the coal shed. In the morning I went to It again. It 
 was still there. Nobody had taken it. I wondered what I 
 could do with it. Father and mother were getting ready to 
 go to church. 1 put a piece in the back pocket of father's 
 pants, and another piece In the lining of ma's muff. I 
 walked behind when we started for church. It was begin- 
 ning to get warm. When we got in church, father looked 
 anxious and mother looked as if something had happened- 
 After the first hymn, mother told father not to sing again, 
 but to keep his mouth shut, and breathe through his nose. 
 After the prayer, prespiration stood on father's face, and 
 the people in the next pew to ours got up and went out. 
 After the next hymn father whispered to mother that he 
 thought she had better go out and air herself. After the 
 second lesson, some of the church wardens came round to 
 see If there were any stray rats in the church. Some more 
 people near our pew got up and went out, putting their 
 handkerchiefs to their noses as tbey went. The parson 
 said they had better close the service, and hold a meeting 
 outside to discuss the sanitary condition of the church. 
 Father told mother they had better go home one at a time. 
 Mother told father to go the nearest way home and disinfect 
 himself before she came. When they got home, they both 
 went into the front room, but did not speak for some time- 
 Mother spoke first, and told father to put the cat out of the 
 room, as she thought it was going to be sick. It was sick 
 before father could get it out. Mother then turned round, 
 and noticed that the canary was dead. Mother told father 
 not to sit so near to the Are, as it made matters worse. 
 Father told mother to go and smother herself. Mother said 
 she thought she was smothered already. Just then the 
 servant came in, and asked if she should open the windows, 
 as the room felt very close. Father went upstairs and 
 ctang?d his clothes, and had a hot batb. Mother took 
 father's clothes and offered them to a tramp, who said, 
 "Thanks, kind lady, they are a bit too high for me.'' 
 Mother threw them over the back fence Into the canal. 
 Father was summoned afterwards for poisoning the fish. 
 Mother went to bed. Father asked her if she had been 
 fumigated. Just then father had a note sent him. Father 
 
 came to wish me "Good Night" at 10 o'clock in the evening, 
 with a note In one hand and a razor strop in the other. I 
 got under the bed. The people next door thought wo were 
 beating carpets In the house. I cannot sit down comfortably 
 yet. I have given my little sister what 1 had left of that 
 Limburger cheese. I thought it a pity to waste it. 
 
 WELSH RAREBIT— A little butter placed in a 
 small shallow sautoir; when melted, finely cut 
 cheese added to it, seasoned with salt, red pep- 
 per, dry mustard and Worcestershire sauce 
 as it begins to melt, ale added till it becomes 
 of a creamy nature; a hot dish with slices of 
 hot toast, the cheese poured over it and served. 
 
 GOLDEN BUCK — Is the preceding with a 
 poached egg on top. 
 
 YORKSHIRE RAREBIT— Is a Golden Buck 
 with a strip of broiled bacon on each side of 
 the egg. 
 
 OLD FASHIONED YORKSHIRE BUCK — A 
 slice of bread half inch thick thinly spread with 
 mustard, placed in hot oven till brown, moist- 
 ened with half a glass of ale, covered with a 
 slice of cheese quarter inch thick, two thin 
 slices of bacon placed on the cheese, returned 
 to oven and cooked till the cheese is melted 
 and the bacon done; served very hot. 
 
 COTTAGE CHEESE — A good way to use up 
 sour milk; let the milk sour to clotness, boiling 
 water then poured to it, stirred, turned into a 
 colander, little cold water poured over it, salt 
 added and again stirred, then placed into a 
 muslin bag and drained dry; served either plain 
 or mixed with cream. Sometimes a little cream 
 and finely chopped chives are added to it before 
 serving, especially for the bar lunch. 
 
 CHEESE SCALLOPS— Individual patty pans 
 buttered, then lined with slices of cheese, an 
 egg then broke into the center, seasoned with 
 pepper, a table-spoonful of milk or cream 
 poured over the egg, then dredged with grated 
 cheese and slowly baked for twenty minutes, 
 turned out and served on dry or fried toast. 
 
 CHEESE STRAWS— One pound of flour, three- 
 quarter pound of grated cheese, four raw yolks 
 of eggs, seasoned with salt and red pepper, 
 made into a paste, rolled out thin, cut into 
 strips and baked a straw color. 
 
 CHEESE SAVORIES— Water crackers split, 
 and the open side thinly spread with anchovy 
 butter; then, with a paste made of two parts 
 of roquefort cheese to one part of butter, sea- 
 soned with salt, red pepper and a dash of sherry 
 wine; served garnished with thin slices of green 
 gherkins. 
 
 CHEESE BISCUITS— Half a pound each of 
 butter and flour, four raw egg yolks, ten ounces 
 of grated Swiss cheese, one table-spoonful of 
 dry mustard and a little red pepper, the butter 
 beaten to a cream, the eggs and dry ingredients 
 then added, made into a stiff dough, rolled out, 
 cut in square biscuits, baked twenty minutes 
 in a rather slow oven and served. 
 
 CHEESE RAMEQUINS— Half a pound each of 
 roquefort and Swiss cheeses, one pound of but- 
 
44 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ter, sixteen raw yolks of eggs, and the insides 
 of four breakfast rolls boiled in cream till soft, 
 the whole then made into a paste, and then 
 mixed lightly with the beaten whites of sixteen 
 eggs; filled into fancy paper cases and baked a 
 fine brown; served very hot. 
 
 CHEESE BOMBE— Into a choux paste made of 
 three-quarter pound of flour, one-half pound of 
 butter and a quart of water, work in one at a 
 time twelve raw yolks and eight whites of eggs, 
 then three-quarter pound of grated Swiss 
 cheese; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in not 
 too hot fat; when done, served with Montpelier 
 butter. 
 
 CHEESE FLANS— Scalloped circles of puff 
 paste, on one half of it is spread a paste made 
 of twelve ounces of parmesan cheese, eight 
 ounces of butter, eight yolks and four beaten 
 whites of eggs, the other half turned on to it, 
 edges pinched down, arranged on baking sheet, 
 brushed over with egg wash, baked, served 
 with watercress. 
 
 CHEESE CASSEROLES— Slices of bread one 
 and a half inches thick, trimmed circular, a 
 center then cut out with column cutter leaving 
 a bottom, dipped in milk, then breaded and 
 fried, taken up and the center filled with a 
 mixture made of two parts bread crumbs, one 
 part grated cheese, and half a part each of 
 melted butter and milk; seasoned with salt and 
 red pepper, baked quickly till cheese is melted 
 and served very hot. 
 
 CHEESE CUSTARD— Grated cheese, beaten 
 raw eggs, dry mustard, salt and pepper beaten 
 into milk at the rate of three eggs and four 
 ounces of cheese to the quart; poured into hot 
 buttered scallop dishes and baked; served in 
 the dish. 
 
 CHEESE PUDDING— Is the same mixture as 
 the preceding, but the scallop dish fitted with 
 a slice of buttered toast, and the mixture 
 poured over it before baking. 
 
 CHEESE SOUFFLES — Another name for 
 "Cheese Ramequins", (which see). 
 
 CHEESE FRITTERS— Half a pound of grated 
 Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and red 
 pepper worked into the beaten whites of eight 
 eggs; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in hot 
 fat, then taken up and rolled into grated cheese 
 mixed with finely chopped parsley; served 
 very hot. 
 
 POTTED CHEESE— Grated cheese, to every 
 pound of which is added four ounces of melted 
 butter and a tablespoonful of brandy, with a 
 seasoning of dry mustard and red pepper, 
 pressed into jars, covered with parchment 
 paper and kept for use. This is also called 
 "Club cheese" and can be bought in small jars. 
 
 CHEESE CONES— The paste given for "Cheese 
 Straws" (which see), cut in squares and baked, 
 then a cone of whipped cream mixed with 
 grated parmesan cheese forced on top with a 
 bag and fancy tube. 
 
 CHEESE OMELET— Beaten eggs with a little 
 cream seasoned with salt and red pepper, fried 
 in omelet form, but before being rolled dredged 
 with grated cheese; served with a dredging of 
 cheese on top, melted in the oven. 
 
 CHEESE FINGERS— Strips of puff paste finger 
 lengths; with each fold of the paste, grated 
 cheese is rolled in, then cut in strips, egg 
 washed and baked. 
 
 CHEESE SANDWICHES— Thin slices of but- 
 tered bread with a thin slice of cheese between, 
 or spread with "Potted Cheese" (which see). 
 
 CHEMISE — A French term used to designate 
 potatoes boiled in their skins, which they call 
 "pommes de terre, en chemise". 
 
 CHERRIES — California produces our best table 
 cherries, while most all of the states produce 
 the red and black sour cooking cherries. The 
 following clipping from the San Francisco 
 Wave will show how an immense crop is 
 handled at a California ranch: "Probably 
 there is no better known and certainly there 
 are few larger ranches in the state of California 
 than that owned by the Meek estate. It is sit- 
 uated a little way outside the city of Oakland, 
 and it covers a huge tract of land between San 
 Lorenzo and Haywards. It is spread over 
 3,300 acres of some of the finest fruit bearing 
 country on the Pacific coast. A thousand 
 acres of this extent is in fruit, for the most part 
 cherries. The season's cherry picking goes on 
 at a great rate, and a little army of pickers toil 
 from tree to tree, stripping the branches like a 
 swarm of locusts. The sight is picturesque, 
 for the pickers come by families and live in the 
 cherry orchard in a small village of tents. At 
 the height of the season nearly 150 pickers are 
 employed. They are of all ages and both sexes, 
 as the work is of such a nature that it can be 
 performed as well by women as by men; as 
 well by a ten year old girl as by a grown man. 
 The pickers are boarded at the expense of the 
 ranch, and besides receive from 75 cents to $1 
 per day, so that a wife and two or three chil- 
 dren can make as much during the few weeks 
 of the season as the head of the house in an 
 entire year. After the picking, the cherries 
 are taken over to the packing house and 
 handled at once; the riper cherries are sorted 
 out and put upon the local markets, while the 
 more backward are shipped East. The force 
 of packers can dispose of 420 boxes per day. 
 Two thousand boxes go to the carload, and 
 must be hurried to their destination as speedily 
 as possible, for there is no fruit that loses its 
 flavor quicker by overkeeping than the cherry. 
 For the same reason the boxes must be rapidly 
 marketed, for they will not keep many hours 
 in the heat of an Eastern summer. There are 
 plenty of difficulties in the way of getting the 
 California cherry upon the tables of the Eastern 
 consumer, but with ordinary care and a fair 
 season the prices obtainable are not bad. In 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 45 
 
 Chicago a ten-pound box of California cherries 
 can be made to bring a dollar if properly 
 handled, while in New York, though the East- 
 ern local market comes into competition, the 
 same quality will sometimes fetch 12 cents per 
 pound. 
 
 CHERRY COMPOTE— Sound, large sweet cher- 
 ries scalded for three minutes in a boiling 
 syrup made of two pounds of sugar to the quart 
 of water, the cherries then removed; the syrup 
 flavored with noyeau, and when cold added to 
 the cherries; served cold in sauce dishes, or 
 hot as a sweet entree with a border of sweet- 
 ened rice. 
 
 BRANDIED CHERRIES— Round, large, sweet 
 cherries scalded for two or three minutes in a 
 boiling syrup composed of one pound of sugar 
 to each quart of water, then taken up and laid 
 on dishes to cool, afterwards filled into wide 
 mouthed bottles. The syrup they were scalded 
 in then boiled up again with another pound of 
 sugar added to each quart, scum removed as it 
 rises; when clear, taken off the stove and al- 
 lowed to become cold, then an equal quantity 
 of brandy added. The brandied syrup then 
 poured over the cherries in the bottles, which 
 are hermetically sealed and put away for use. 
 
 BOUCHEES OF CHERRIES— For recipes of 
 fruit bouchees see "Bouchees". 
 
 GLAZED CHERRIES WITH WHIPPED 
 CREAM— Brandied cherries, the syrup poured 
 off and boiled down till thick and grainy, then 
 flavored with Kirschenwasser, allowed to be- 
 come cold, then poured over the cherries; 
 served around a dome of whipped cream forced 
 through a bag with fancy tube, (called, CER- 
 ISES GLACES, a la CHANTILLY). 
 
 CHERRY JELLY — Five pounds of stoned cherry 
 meat, juice of eight lemons, one pound of red 
 currant jelly and some bruised cherry kernels 
 mixed and brought to the boil in a gallon of 
 syrup, simmered and skimmed, removed from 
 the fire and four ounces of dissolved gelatine 
 added, then strained and restrained through a 
 jelly bag till clear, filled into molds or glasses; 
 served when set. 
 
 CHERRY PIE— Stoned red sour cherries slight- 
 ly flavored with noyeau, mixed with sugar, 
 filled into a pie plate lined with pie paste, the 
 fruit then sprinkled with carbonate of soda to 
 prevent the juice running over, covered with a 
 top crust, edges pressed and crimped, brushed 
 with egg wash and baked. 
 
 DEEP CHERRY PIE— Sound red or black sour 
 cherries mixed with sugar, filled into a deep 
 lined pie dish, heaped high in the center, cov- 
 ered with top crust, egg washed, and baked. 
 
 CHERRY PUDDING — Molds or bowls lined 
 with short-paste, filled with cherry meat mixed 
 with sugar, covered with top crust, boiled or 
 steamed till done; served with cherry sauce. 
 
 CHERRY ROLY-POLY— Sweet biscuit dough 
 rolled out thin, spread with cherry meat mixed 
 
 with sugar, rolled up, ends tucked in, put in 
 pans and steamed or baked, or tied in wet 
 floured cloths and plunged into boiling water, 
 kept boiling till done; serve with cherry sauce. 
 
 CHERRY TARTS— Tart molds lined with puff 
 paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with sugar, 
 baked, then meringued, browned and served. 
 
 CHERRIES IN CROUSTADES— The crous- 
 tades made of sweetened rice croquette mixture, 
 the edges decorated; served hot, filled with 
 cherry compote. 
 
 CHERRY CHARLOTTE — Small pans lined 
 with lady fingers, filled with cherry marmalade, 
 covered with fingers, baked and glazed; served 
 with cherry sauce. 
 
 CHERRY MARMALADE — Stoned cherries 
 with some of their kernels boiled to a pulp with 
 a very little water and twelve ounces of sugar 
 to each pound of fruit; when smooth and stiff 
 poured into crocks for future use. 
 
 CHERRY COBBLER — Shallow baking pans 
 lined with short paste, sides and bottom, filled 
 with cherry meat mixed with sugar, covered 
 with short paste, egg washed and baked; served 
 with cherry sauce. 
 
 CHERRY TRIFLE— Pieces of stale sponge cake 
 moistened with equal parts of the syrup of 
 brandied cherries and sherry wine, smoothed 
 down into a dish, then spread with cherry 
 marmalade, over which is poured a boiled cus- 
 tard flavored with noyeau, the custard decora- 
 ted with brandied cherries. 
 
 CHERRY FRITTERS — Thin slices of fresh 
 bread spread between with cherry marmalade, 
 the sandwich then neatly trimmed, dipped into 
 a thin batter and fried, taken up, rolled in 
 powdered sugar; served with cherry sauce. 
 
 CHERRY FLAWN— A flawn mold lined with 
 puff paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with 
 sugar, baked in slack oven till done. 
 
 CHERRY WATER ICE— One pound of stoned 
 cherries and half pound of sugar to each quart 
 of water, with a dash of lemon juice and a 
 flavor of bitter almonds, the stoned cherries, 
 bruised kernels and sugar mixed and rubbed 
 through a fine sieve into the flavored water; 
 then frozen. 
 
 CHERRY SHERBET --The water ice of the 
 preceding recipe, but when nearly frozen, 
 whipped whites of eggs, two to the quart, are 
 added, then frozen till done. 
 
 CHERRY MERINGUE— Sheet of sponge cake 
 spread thickly with cherry marmalade, then 
 spread fancifully with meringue, dotted with 
 brandied cherries, baked a straw color, cut in 
 shapes, served with cream or whipped cream. 
 
 CHERVIL — A garden herb with a combined 
 flavor of parsley and fennel. 
 
 CHESTNUTS — The large ones obtainable at 
 most Italian stores are the best suited for culi- 
 nary purposes, the small ones seen at the fruit 
 stalls being far too tedious. They should be 
 first cut through the shell in the form of a 
 
4 6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 cross, so as to strip the shell off easily, then 
 placed in a baking pan, put into a slack oven 
 till done; or they may be boiled till done, and 
 then husked. Some people like to eat boiled 
 chestnuts, the water being flavored with ani- 
 seed; when husked, made hot again in a little 
 melted butter. 
 
 CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT— Chestnuts boiled 
 and husked, pounded to a paste with butter, 
 mixed with a little grated ham, breadcrumbs, 
 minced onion, grated lemon rind, yolks of eggs, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper; used to stuff 
 poultry and suckling pigs. 
 
 DEVILLED CHESTNUTS — Boiled, peeled, 
 fried brown in butter oil, taken up and sprink- 
 led with salt and red pepper. 
 
 PUREE OF CHESTNUTS — Boiled, peeled, 
 pounded, then rubbed through a fine sieve. 
 
 CHESTNUT SOUP— A thin cream of chicken 
 stock thickened with a puree of chestnuts, sea- 
 soned and served. 
 
 CHIANTI — A low priced yet good Italian wine 
 with a Burgundy flavor. 
 
 CHICORY — A plant, the leaves of which are used 
 for salads. The root is ground and used to mix 
 with coffee, giving it a sweetish taste and dark 
 color. Chicory should be discarded from coffee. 
 Eminent physicians claim it has a debilitating 
 effect, and a tendency to excite looseness of the 
 bowels. Stewards who buy cheap ground coffee 
 will invariably find it adulterated with chicory, 
 and the chicory adulterated with Venitian red, 
 acorns, beans, peas, coffee husks, rye, parsnips, 
 damaged wheat, dried coffee grounds, sawdust, 
 bark, logwood dust, etc. MORAL: do not 
 handle it at all, buy whole coffee and see it 
 ground yourselves. 
 
 BROILED CHICKEN— Spring chickens cleaned, 
 split, the breast and backbone removed, thigh 
 bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 brushed with butter, broiled well done; served 
 on buttered toast, garnished with lemon and 
 watercress, using frills on leg and wing bones. 
 
 FRIED CHICKEN- Spring chickens cleaned, 
 split down the back, breast and backbone re- 
 moved, thigh bone snapped, rolled in butter, 
 then in flour, fried in skillet with a cover on; 
 it may also be breaded, or dipped in batter, 
 and fried in hot fat; the first way tastes the 
 best. 
 
 SMOTHERED CHICKEN — Spring chickens 
 split in halves, breast and backbone removed, 
 thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, 
 arranged in a baking pan with bacon fat, sliced 
 vegetables and sweet herbs, moistened with a 
 little chicken gravy, another pan put over as a 
 lid, baked, basted and turned till done and 
 brown, taken up; gravy made in the pan they 
 were cooked in, strained, skimmed and served 
 with the chickens. 
 
 CHICKEN CROQUETTES— Cold roast chicken 
 
 cut into very small dice mixed with minced 
 mushrooms, seasoned with lemon juice, salt and 
 nutmeg, boiled down thick in Veloute" sauce, 
 turned into a shallow buttered pan, smoothed 
 with a knife, covered with buttered paper; 
 when cold, cut into even sized pieces, formed 
 into cone shapes, breaded, fried, served with 
 mushroom sauce poured around and garnished 
 with croquette frills. 
 
 MINCED CHICKEN CUTLETS, SAUCE BOR- 
 DELAISE — The croquette mixture preceding 
 with the addition of a seasoning of minced fried 
 shallots, thyme and chopped parsley; when 
 cold, cut into even sized pieces, shaped like 
 small lamb chops, using a piece of macaroni to 
 represent the bone; breaded and fried; served 
 with Bordelaise sauce poured around, and gar- 
 nished with heart shaped croutons dipped in 
 tomato sauce and sprinkled with chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN— Tender chickens 
 cut into joints, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 lemon juice, rolled in flour, lightly fried in 
 butter, then put into Veloute sauce and sim- 
 mered till tender; Parisienne potatoes steamed, 
 then plunged into boiling fat and lightly 
 browned; button mushrooms sauteed in butter; 
 the sauce the chickens were stewed in finished 
 with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Served, 
 the chicken with sauce poured over, and sur- 
 rounded with alternate potatoes and mushrooms. 
 Fricassee of chicken may also be made of 
 boiled chickens the same way, or using cold 
 boiled ones; the garnish may also be omitted 
 or changed to the fancy of the cook. 
 
 CHICKEN PIE— Chickens boiled whole till ten- 
 der with an onion and piece of salt pork; when 
 done, taken up, the breasts and legs pulled off, 
 the back bones thrown into the stock, the legs 
 cut in halves, the under breast separated, and 
 if the upper breast is large, cut in two, if small 
 left whole; the pork cut into dice, the chicken 
 then put into baking dishes with the pork, 
 sliced hard boiled eggs, raw Parisienne pota- 
 toes and some chopped parsley; covered with a 
 sauce made from the stock they were boiled in, 
 reserving some of it, the pie then covered with 
 short paste, egg washed and baked. In serv- 
 ing give liberally of the gravy, using the re- 
 served sauce to replenish the pie. 
 
 CHICKEN POT PIE— Chickens boiled with salt 
 pork and a few vegetables till tender, taken up 
 and cut as for chicken pie preceding, put into 
 a pan; sauce made of the stock, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped 
 parsley, poured over the chickens; spoonfuls 
 of dumpling mixture dropped close together all 
 over it; baked and served. Or the chicken 
 when cut up, may be put into another saucepan, 
 covered with the sauce, dumplings put all over 
 it, lid put on, and the dumplings cooked by 
 thus having the sauce boiled roundthem. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 47 
 
 CHICKEN SAUTE WITH RISSOTO— Young 
 chickens fried in joints, of a light color with 
 mushrooms, taken up, gravy made in the pan 
 they were fried in, strained over the chicken 
 in a sautoir, simmered till done, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and a glass of sherry wine. Ris- 
 soto made by cutting some ham fat into small 
 dice and frying it with minced onion in a sau" 
 toir, little curry powder added, then rice, 
 moistened with white stock, lid put on and 
 simmered till rice is well cooked, adding more 
 stock if required. Seived, the chicken in sauce 
 in the center of the dish, flanked with small 
 domes of rissoto formed by filling small molds 
 and turning them out for,each order. 
 
 SMALL CHICKEN PIES, FRENCH STYLE 
 — Boiled tender chickens, the stock well re- 
 duced till of a full flavor, meat taken from the 
 chickens, cut into flakes of an even size; thick 
 sauce made of the stock, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley, poured 
 to the chicken. Puff paste cut out with large 
 circular cutter, egg washed and baked; when 
 done the paste split, the lower half covered 
 with the chicken meat in sauce, top put on; 
 served surrounded with small balls of potatoes 
 steamed, then moistened with Maitre D'Hotel 
 butter. 
 
 CUTLETS OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES — Spring chickens should be used' 
 boiled not quite done in white stock, then 
 allowed to become cold, the breasts and legs 
 then taken off, making four cutlets to each 
 chicken, leaving the leg and wing bones a little 
 long and scraping the same, so that it resem- 
 bles a chop bone; seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, breaded and fried; served surrounded 
 with Julienne vegetables mixed into Hollandaise 
 sauce. 
 
 FRIED FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN — Neat 
 shaped pieces of cold fricasseed chicken with 
 the sauce adhering, rolled in bread crumbs, 
 then breaded and fried; served with a white 
 Italian sauce poured around. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES— 
 The chickens jointed, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, placed in a sautoir with olive oil, pars- 
 ley, some small onions and a clove of garlic, 
 lid placed on and fried or simmered in their 
 own steam till tender, taken up and gravy made 
 in the sautoir they were stewed in; served, the 
 chicken with some gravy over it, garnished with 
 fried slices of tomatoes sprinkled with parsley 
 dust. 
 
 SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH TOU- 
 LOUSE RAGOUT — Breasts of young chickens 
 that have been boiled whole, so that their shape 
 is retained; skinned and trimmed to a pear 
 shape, then sauteed lightly in butter, taken up 
 and placed into a Supreme sauce and simmered 
 gently for a few minutes; slices of cooked 
 smoked tongue trimmed to a pear shape and 
 heated with a little butter; served, the chicken 
 
 breast resting on a fancy crouton flanked with 
 a slice of the tongue, Supreme sauce poured 
 over the chicken, garnished with button mush- 
 rooms, turned truffles, cocks-combs and kernels. 
 
 SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH RICE, 
 SAUCE PERIGUEUX— The supreme pre- 
 pared as in the preceding; served, a bed of dry 
 boiled rice, breast of chicken masked with Su- 
 preme sauce on top, flanked with two slices of 
 the tongue, and Perigueux sauce poured around. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, TURKISH STYLE— 
 Young chickens boiled whole with a rack of 
 mutton, (the part that is under the shoulder) in 
 white stock; when the chicken is not quite done 
 it is taken up and drained, placed in a sautoir 
 with butter and sliced onions and fried a golden 
 color, then taken up and cut into joints, the 
 onions removed and washed rice put into the 
 sautoir, moistened with the stock the chicken 
 and mutton was boiled in, cooked till dry and 
 tender, sauce made of the remaining stock sea- 
 soned with a little cinnamon; served, a bed of 
 the rice, a chop and joint of the chicken rest- 
 ing on it, with the sauce poured over and 
 around. 
 
 CHICKEN WITH RICE, MALTESE STYLE 
 — Young chickens roasted whole not quite 
 done, then jointed, then braised for a few min- 
 utes with minced onions, garlic, and a few 
 cloves, then one part of tomato sauce and two 
 parts of white stock is added to the chickens, 
 and when boiled up, washed rice is added and 
 the whole simmered till the rice is tender; 
 served, a bed of rice with joint of chicken on 
 top and sauce Trianon poured around. 
 
 ROAST CHICKEN, OYSTER SAUCE— Young 
 chickens drawn, singed, washed, wiped dry, 
 filled with a stuffing made of blanched and 
 chopped oysters, chopped parsley, fresh bread 
 crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a dash of 
 anchovy essence, trussed, roasted and basted 
 till tender; served with some of the stuffing 
 underneath and oyster sauce poured around; 
 made by blanching the oysters, then cutting 
 them into neat pieces, sauteeing them with 
 butter and fine herbs; sauce made of the liquor 
 from the blanching, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and a dash of anchovy essence, the sauteed 
 oysters and herbs then added. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, SPANISH STYLE — 
 Cold boiled chicken cut into joints, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper and mixed ground spices, 
 sauteed in olive oil with minced shallots, garlic 
 and chopped parsley; when colored, the surplus 
 oil poured off, and Espagnole sauce added, 
 simmered a few minutes; served with the sauce 
 and garnished with slices of hard boiled (hot) 
 eggs. 
 
 CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS, 
 MADEIRA SAUCE— Chickens drawn, singed 
 and washed, then boiled till tender in white 
 stock, taken up, cooled, stuffed with chestnut 
 forcemeat, trussed, roasted quickly, being bast- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ed with butter and flour, served with a rich 
 Madeira sauce poured around. 
 
 CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUT PUREE AND 
 VEGETABLES— Cold roast chickens cut into 
 joints and trimmed, bone removed and its place 
 filled with a stiff pur£e of chestnuts moistened 
 with a little cream, together with the grated 
 rind of a lemon, the stuffed joints then dipped 
 in limpid aspic jelly and allowed to set, then 
 decorated with a piping of Ravigote butter; 
 served, a cold dish covered with crisp lettuce 
 leaves, at the ends a triangular shape of mace- 
 doine of vegetables mixed with salad cream, 
 the chicken joints resting on the salad, and 
 tartar sauce in the center. 
 
 ROAST CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS 
 AND BREAD SAUCE— Young chickens drawn, 
 singed, washed, trussed with slices of bacon 
 tied over the breast, roasted and basted, and 
 when nearly done the bacon removed and the 
 breast browned; served with bread sauce at 
 one end of the dish, sauteed mushrooms in 
 sauce as a border, also a garnish of fresh crisp 
 watercress. 
 
 CHICKENS, MARYLAND STYLE — Spring 
 chickens singed, split down the back, the breast 
 bone and back bone removed, left in halves for 
 restaurant, and the leg and breast separated 
 for hotel orders, making four portions of each 
 chicken; seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped 
 in beaten eggs, then fresh bread crumbs, ar- 
 ranged in baking pan with slices of bacon, 
 brushed with melted butter, roasted and basted 
 with the bacon fat till done; served, the chick- 
 en resting on a corn fritter, flanked with two 
 slices of the bacon, and a ladle of Bechamel 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BOILED CHICKEN WITH SALT PORK, 
 PARSLEY SAUCE— Small chickens about two 
 pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed 
 and put to boil with a piece of salt pork, an 
 onion stuck with cloves, carrot and celery; 
 when tender, taken up, the breasts and legs 
 carefully removed, backbone and trimmings 
 thrown back into the stock, the joints kept hot 
 in white stock, the sauce made of the liquor 
 they were boiled in; served, a breast or leg 
 and under breast flanked with a slice of the 
 pork, and the sauce poured around. 
 
 FRIED CHICKEN IN BATTER, TOMATO 
 SAUCE — Spring chickens blanched whole, 
 then separated (not cut) into four joints, steeped 
 for an hour in a mixture of chopped parsley, 
 salt, pepper, minced shallots, lemon juice and 
 olive oil, then taken up and wiped, dipped into 
 a batter, fried in hot fat; served with tomato 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 HARICOT OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES — Chickens singed, drawn and washed, 
 then boiled whole with carrots, turnips and 
 onions; when nearly done taken up and cut 
 into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 
 rolled in flour, fried a golden brown with butter, 
 placed into a sautoir, brown sauce made of the 
 stock they were boiled in, strained over the 
 fried chicken, simmered till tender, the cooked 
 vegetables cut into large dice, mixed with 
 cooked green peas, moistened with gravy and 
 kept hot in it; served, the chicken in sauce sur- 
 rounded with the vegetables. 
 
 BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI— 
 Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and wiped, 
 then steamed for an hour, taken up, cut into 
 joints, placed in a sautoir with vegetables and 
 spices, moistened with Madeira sauce, lid put 
 on, sautoir placed in hot oven and the chicken 
 braised till tender, then taken up into another 
 sautoir and the braise strained over them; 
 macaroni in inch lengths boiled in stock with 
 an onion; when done, drained, sprinkled with 
 Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley; served, 
 the chicken in sauce surrounded with the mac- 
 aroni. 
 
 BROILED CHICKEN, HUNTER'S STYLE— 
 Spring chickens singed, split down the back, 
 backbone and breastbone removed, steeped for 
 an hour in a mixture of olive oil, minced onions, 
 chopped parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice, 
 taken up, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, broiled 
 well done; served with sauce Chasseur poured 
 around, and garnished with lemon and parsley. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF CHICKEN, TOMATO 
 SAUCE — Young chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed and wiped, blanched, taken up and 
 separated into four joints, the breast and under 
 breast seasoned with salt and pepper, then 
 breaded, arranged in a buttered sautoir, roasted 
 and basted till tender and brown, the legs 
 boned, then filled with chicken forcemeat, 
 braised and glazed; served, a fancy crouton in 
 center of dish with a glazed leg and browned 
 breast resting on either side, and a rich tomato 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BLANCHED CHICKEN WITH VELOUTE 
 SAUCE — Young white fleshed chickens singed, 
 drawn, washed, trussed with a piece of butter 
 size of an egg mixed with the juice of a lemon 
 and a seasoning of salt and pepper in the inside 
 of each; arranged in a sautoir with slices of. 
 lemon and fat bacon, moistened with a little 
 white stock, lid put on, steamed in this way till 
 tender; served, masked with Veloute sauce, 
 and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 MATELOTE OF CHICKEN— Young chickens 
 singed, drawn, washed, simmered for half an 
 hour in white stock, taken up, jointed, put into 
 Veloute sauce with a glass of white wine, sim- 
 mered till tender, then is added small white 
 onions, balls of carrot and turnip (some use 
 parsnip) each of which has been boiled in con- 
 somme with a pincn of sugar; served, the 
 chicken in sauce, garnished with vegetables. 
 
 CHICKEN SAUTE WITH MUSHROOMS— 
 Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, cut 
 into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 49 
 
 fried in oil with herbs and garlic, when brown, 
 taken up and placed into a sautoir, button 
 mushrooms then fried in the oil, taken up and 
 put with the chickens, surplus oil then poured 
 off, flour added to the pan, stirred, moistened 
 with chicken stock and Madeira wine, boiled 
 up, skimmed, strained over the chickens, which 
 are then simmered till tender; served garnished 
 with the mushrooms (called, CHICKEN a la 
 MARENGO). 
 
 CHICKEN STUFFED AND STEWED, SAUCE 
 MILANAISE — Young chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed, filled with a stuffing made of grated 
 lean ham, chopped hard boiled eggs, fresh 
 bread crumbs, chopped parsley, minced shal- 
 lots, juice of a lemon, and a seasoning of thyme, 
 trussed, arranged in a sautoir, covered with 
 white stock, lid placed on, simmered and basted 
 till tender; served in joints with some of the 
 stuffing underneath, and Milanaise sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUCUMBER 
 PUREE — Spring chickens singed, split down 
 the back, separated into four joints, backbone 
 and breastbone removed, blanched in white 
 stock for a few minutes, then taken up and 
 coated with thick cucumber sauce, rolled in 
 breadcrumbs, then breaded, fried; served sur- 
 rounded with a puree of cucumbers. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN WITH DUMPLINGS— 
 Young chickens singed, drawn, washed and 
 jointed, arranged in saucepan with carrot, 
 onion, celery and turnip, moistened with white 
 stock, simmered till tender, taken up, sauce 
 made of the stock, the vegetables rubbed 
 through a sieve into the finished sauce, dump- 
 lings steamed; served, the chicken in center of 
 dish, dumpling at each end, sauce poured over 
 the whole, sprinkled with parsley dust. 
 
 FRIED CHICKEN, INDIAN STYLE — Spring 
 chickens blanched whole, then jointed, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and rubbed with curry 
 powder, fried brown in butter; served with a 
 garnish of stewed onions. 
 
 BRAISED FILLETS OF CHICKEN, HAN- 
 OVER SAUCE — Old fowls singed, drawn, 
 washed, steamed for an hour, then cut into 
 fillets, arranged in a sautoir with spices and 
 vegetables, moistened with consomme, braised 
 till tender and the consomme has reduced to 
 half glaze, fillets taken up into another sautoir, 
 the braise strained into an Hanover sauce and 
 poured over the chicken; served with it and 
 garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 CHICKEN CURRIED, WITH RICE — Young 
 chickens singed, drawn, washed, boiled for an 
 hour in white stock, taken up, drained, cut into 
 joints, seasoned with salt, rolled in flour, fried 
 brown in butter with sliced onions and a clove 
 of garlic, chicken then taken up and placed in- 
 to a sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and 
 flour, shook together, moistened with the 
 strained stock they were boiled in, simmered 
 
 till tender, with the addition of a grated green 
 apple and the juice of a lemon; served in the 
 center of a border of dry boiled rice. 
 
 BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN WITH TRUF- 
 FLES — Young white chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed, arranged in a sautoir with slices of fat 
 bacon and some lemon juice, moistened with 
 white stock, lid put on and simmered till tender, 
 taken up and cut into joints, placed into another 
 sautoir, bacon and grease removed, Bechamel 
 sauce then poured in, boiled up, skimmed, 
 strained over the chickens; served with it, 
 sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 
 
 SPITCHCOCKED CHICKEN, CRAPAUDINE 
 SAUCE — Spring chickens singed, split, washed, 
 backbone and breastbone removed, trussed out 
 like a frog, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in olive oil, broiled well done; served on 
 toast with crapaudine sauce poured around, 
 garnished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN WITH RICE — Young 
 chickens singed, split, jointed, fried with olive 
 oil in a sautoir; when brown, surplus oil poured 
 off, minced green peppers and onions with a 
 clove of garlic (crushed) then added and fried a 
 little more, lightly sprinkled with flour, shook 
 together, moistened with consomme, lid placed 
 on and simmered till tender and glazy, then is 
 added some slices of pimentoes and chutney 
 with a glass of Madeira wine, boiled up; served 
 within a border of dry boiled rice that has been 
 very slightly flavored and colored with curry. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, MEXICAN STYLE— 
 Young chickens singed, split, jointed, fried 
 with olive oil in a sautoir till brown, taken up 
 in another sautoir, ham and garlic then fried 
 in the oil of a light color, surplus oil poured off 
 the onions, etc., then moistened with equal 
 parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces, seasoned 
 with thyme, sage, marjoram and sweet pepper, 
 simmered for half an hour, skimmed, strained 
 over the chickens which are then simmered till 
 tender; raw tomatoes peeled and the seeds re- 
 moved, cut into pieces and stewed down thick 
 with chili sauce; served, the chicken in sauce 
 with fancy croutons at ends of dish, garnished 
 at the sides with the tomato and chili mixture. 
 
 BRAISED CHICKENS WITH GREEN PEP- 
 PERS — Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
 filled with a stuffing made by boiling yellow 
 corn meal with chicken stock to mush; when 
 done, mixed with fresh grated breadcrumbs, 
 parmesan cheese, butter, salt and pepper, 
 trussed with slices of bacon tied over the breast, 
 arranged in a sautoir with onions, carrot, pars- 
 ley, bay leaves, cloves and a crushed clove of 
 garlic, moistened with consomme, braised till 
 tender and glazy, taken up, braise strained 
 and skimmed, then added to some Espagnole 
 sauce containing green peppers sliced, and a 
 seasoning of curry powder; served, the chick- 
 ens in portions with stuffing underneath, sauce 
 poured over, garnished with the peppers. 
 
5° 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BOILED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES, 
 ALLEMANDE SAUCE — Old fowls singed, 
 drawn, washed and trussed, put into saucepan 
 with carrot, celery and onions, covered with 
 salted water, lid put on, saucepan then placed 
 in hot oven, chickens simmered till tender 
 (about three hours), taken up, Allemande sauce 
 made from the remaining stock; small balls of 
 carrot simmered in consomme till tender, a can 
 each of lima beans and flageolets opened and 
 washed, then mixed with the carrot balls, sea- 
 soned with salt, sugar and red pepper; served, 
 the chicken in joints with sauce poured over, 
 and garnished with the mixed vegetables drained 
 out of the consomme. 
 
 BOILED LARDED CHICKEN WITH MAC- 
 ARONI— Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, 
 the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in sauce- 
 pan with carrot, onions and celery, covered 
 with salted water, lid put on, simmered in hot 
 oven till tender; a rich yellow sauce made from 
 the reduced liquor, macaroni broken in inch 
 lengths and boiled in salted water till done, 
 taken up, drained, seasoned with paprika, par- 
 mesan cheese and a little of the sauce for the 
 chickens; served, the birds in joints with the 
 sauce poured over and sprinkled with parsley 
 dust, garnished with the macaroni. 
 
 STEWED CHICKENS WITH ESTRAGON— 
 Old fowls singed, drawn, jointed, washed, put 
 into a sautoir with some fat from the top of the 
 stock pot, a few veal trimmings, a bunch of 
 tarragon and some sherry wine, covered with 
 white stock, lid put on and simmered in a hot 
 oven till tender, then taken up into another 
 sautoir, the remaining stock strained, skimmed, 
 and added to a rich Poulette sauce containing 
 chopped tarragon leaves; served, the chicken 
 covered with the sauce and garnished with 
 slices of hard boiled (hot) eggs. 
 
 BRAISED CHICKENS WITH VEGETABLES 
 — Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, the breasts 
 larded, trussed, arranged in saucepan with 
 some bacon trimmings, spices and vegetables, 
 moistened with white stock and Madeira sauce 
 in equal parts, lid put on, simmered in hot 
 oven till tender, taken up, the braise strained 
 and skimmed, then poured over the chickens; 
 cans of macedoines opened and washed, then 
 kept hot in consomme; served, the chickens in 
 joints with the sauce over, garnished with the 
 vegetables drained from the consomme. 
 BRAISED CHICKENS WITH MUSHROOMS 
 — Old fowls prepared, bacon tied over the 
 breast, arranged in a sautoir with vegetables 
 and spices, moistened with consomme, lid put 
 on, then braised till tender and glazy, taken up, 
 braise skimmed, 1 strained and added to button 
 mushrooms that have been sauteed with butter 
 and then mixed into Bechamel sauce; served, 
 the glazed pieces of chicken resting on neat 
 shaped pieces of toast surrounded with the 
 mushrooms in sauce. 
 
 CHAUDFROID OF CHICKEN— Spring chick- 
 ens a pound and a half each in weight, singed, 
 drawn, washed, trussed, wrapped in buttered 
 paper, roasted without browning, taken up and 
 allowed to cool in the paper, then separated 
 into four joints, neatly trimmed; equal parts of 
 aspic jelly and Poulette sauce made warm 
 enough to mix, then stirred surrounded with 
 broken ice till thick, the chicken then dipped 
 into it, then arranged on a baking sheet to set; 
 when set, decorate them with slices of truffles; 
 the remaining sauce filled into timbale molds 
 that have been lined with aspic jelly and set; 
 served, the chicken joint resting on a crouton 
 of aspic jelly, with the timbale turned out 01 
 the end of the chicken, the other end garnished 
 with watercress. 
 
 CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN WITH 
 STRING BEANS— Cold cooked chicken three- 
 fifths; lean cooked ham and fresh grated bread 
 crumbs each one-fifth; the meats cut into very 
 small squares, mixed with the crumbs together 
 with some chopped chervil, capers and a sea- 
 soning of tarragon vinegar, salt and red pepper; 
 moistened with stock and beaten raw eggs; 
 filled into buttered molds within half an inch 
 of the top, lids put on and steamed for an hour; 
 allow them to slightly cool before turning out; 
 served, in slices surrounded with French string 
 beans (haricots verts) taken from the cans; 
 washed, then heated in Veloute sauce. 
 
 DEVILLED CHICKEN LEGS WITH BACON 
 — Skinned tender chicken legs, scored, laid for 
 an hour in a mixture of olive oil, Worcester- 
 shire sauce, lemon juice, red pepper and an- 
 chovy essence, then taken up and slowly 
 broiled; served resting on a crouton, garnished 
 with strips of bacon, and some sauce Diable. 
 
 CHICKEN FORCEMEAT — White meat of 
 cooked chicken three parts; white bread soaked 
 in chicken stock, then squeezed dry, one part; 
 pounded together to a paste with two ounces of 
 Dutter to each pound of meat, seasoned with 
 salt pepper, nutmeg and a little lemon juice, 
 then rubbed through a fine sieve and mixed to 
 a stiff consistency with egg yolks and cold 
 Veloute sauce. 
 
 CHICKEN FORCEMEAT BALLS CURRIED. 
 WITH RICE— Balls of the preceding force- 
 meat poached in a good curry sauce; served 
 with it, being arranged on the serving dish 
 alternately with small molds of dry boiled rice. 
 
 FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH ASPARAGUS 
 POINTS — Spring chickens one and a half 
 pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed, 
 boiled just done, taken up, cooled, skinned, 
 separated into four joints neatly trimmed, re- 
 heated in a rich Villeroi sauce; served masked 
 with it, garnished with asparagus points sea- 
 soned with butter. 
 
 CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS 
 Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
 steamed not quite done, taken up, cooled, skin- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 5i 
 
 ned, separated into four joints, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cooling Vil- 
 leroi sauce, then in bread crumbs, then breaded 
 and arranged in a buttered baking pan, roasted 
 and basted till brown and frothy; served sur- 
 rounded with green peas moistened with con- 
 somme and butter. 
 
 SCALLOPED CHICKEN— Cold cooked chicken 
 meat cut into thin slices, moistened with Alle- 
 mande sauce, filled into scallop shells or oval 
 deep dishes, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs 
 mixed with Parmesan cheese, salt, red pepper 
 and nutmeg, then with melted butter, arranged 
 on a baking sheet, heated and browned; served 
 in the shell or dish, garnished with watercress. 
 
 CHICKEN KROMESKIES, SAUCE PERI- 
 GUEUX — Cooked chicken and tongue, button 
 mushrooms and truffles all cut into very small 
 squares and boiled down thick in a rich Veloute 
 sauce, a liaison of egg yolks and cream added 
 just at the finish, then turned into a buttered 
 shallow pan, smoothed with a palette knife, 
 covered with buttered paper and allowed to 
 become cold, then cut into even sized pieces, 
 formed to the shape of long corks, wrapped 
 round with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon or 
 udder, pinned with a toothpick, dipped into 
 batter and fried, toothpick then removed; 
 served with Perigueux sauce. 
 
 SALPICON OF CHICKEN WITH POTATOES 
 — Cooked chicken, tongue, mushrooms and 
 truffles cut into small squares and made hot in 
 a rich Poulette sauce; served, the serving dish 
 bordered with mashed potatoes forced from a 
 bag and fancy tube, sprinkled with parsley 
 dust, the salpicon in the center. 
 
 CHICKEN PATTIES, SAUCE SUPREME— 
 The preceding salpicon, but cut smaller, filled 
 into patty shells; served with Supreme sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, GERMAN STYLE — 
 Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
 arranged in a saucepan with grated green ap- 
 ples and onions, covered with stock, simmered 
 in hot oven till tender, Allemande sauce made 
 from the reduced liquor, noodles boiled in 
 stock till tender, taken up and drained, then 
 mixed with some of the sauce; served, the 
 chicken masked with sauce, surrounded with 
 noodles. 
 
 CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT- Raw 
 skinless chicken meat with a little beef suet 
 minced, pounded together to a paste, rubbed 
 through a fine sieve with some bread that has 
 been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, seasoned 
 with finely chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, 
 salt, red pepper and nutmeg, worked to a stiff 
 consistency with raw egg yolks beaten with a 
 little cream. 
 
 CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS — The forcemeat preceding made into 
 balls or shaped like eggs between two dessert 
 
 spoons; poached in white stock till they float, 
 taken up and rolled in fried sifted bread crumbs; 
 served surrounded with button mushrooms in 
 Veloute sauce. 
 
 RISSOLES OF CHICKEN— The salpicon as 
 given for "Kromeskies" when cold, cut out 
 with a circular cutter, two sheets of puff paste 
 rolled out thin, the chicken placed over one 
 sheet, covered with the other, stamped out with 
 a fancy edged cutter, arianged on a baking 
 sheet, brushed over with egg wash and baked. 
 
 SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH BOUCHEES— 
 Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, then 
 steamed for five minutes, then separated into 
 four joints neatly trimmed, scraping the little 
 meat off the wing and leg shanks to form 
 handles; seasoned with salt, pepper and pow- 
 dered thyme, fried brown with butter, then put 
 into Madeira sauce and simmered till tender; 
 served, resting against a crouton with frills on 
 the shanks, sauce poured over the meat, gar- 
 nished with very small patties filled with 
 salpicon. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN WITH QUE- 
 NELLES — Large patty shells with separate 
 covers filled with a salpicon of chicken, cover 
 then placed on, served with Madeira sauce 
 poured under, and garnished with small 
 poached chicken quenelles. 
 
 ROAST BONED CHICKEN— Large old fowls 
 and young hens singed, skin laid open down 
 the back and all bones removed, the old ones 
 then laid out flat skin side down, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, al- 
 ternate strips of larding pork and red cooked 
 tongue then placed lengthwise down the center, 
 then covered with forcemeat, the young hen 
 without skin laid on top of it so that the white 
 meat covers the dark meat of the fowl, outer 
 skin of the fowl then drawn together and sewn 
 close, leaving no apertures; again sewn up into 
 a cloth, steamed for an hour, cloth then re- 
 moved, roasted and basted till well done and 
 tender, taken up, pressed; when cold, string 
 removed, glazed; served cold in slices with 
 salad. 
 
 BOILED BONED CHICKEN — Same as the 
 preceding, but instead of steaming, it is sim- 
 mered till tender in white stock containing 
 vegetables; when done, taken up, pressed in 
 the cloth; when cold, cloth and string removed, 
 all adhering grease removed with a hot cloth, it 
 is then glazed; served cold in slices with salad. 
 
 GALANTINE OF CHICKEN— Galantine molds 
 placed in a pan of broken ice, salt and water, 
 limpid aspic jelly poured in to coat the sides, 
 which is then decorated with peas, strips of 
 tongue, stamped slices of truffle and whites of 
 hard boiled eggs, etc., the decorations then 
 coated with more limpid jelly and allowed to 
 set, the interior then filled with slices of boned 
 chicken and limpid jelly till full, (always see 
 
52 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 that the slices of chicken are placed on edge, 
 NOT LAID FLAT! so that when it is turned 
 out, the slices may be removed with the jelly 
 adhering merely by the use of a fork). When 
 set, the mold is slightly warmed with a hot 
 cloth, then turned out, the dish garnished with 
 croutons of aspic jelly, cress, crisp shred let- 
 tuce, fancy slices of pickled beet, or variations 
 at the cook's fancy. 
 
 FRIED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH CORN 
 FRITTERS— Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed and simmered barely done, taken up, 
 cooled, skinned, breasts removed, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
 rolled in melted butter, then in flour, then in 
 beaten eggs and fried in hot fat, taken up and 
 drained; served with sauce Supreme poured 
 under, and garnished with small corn fritters 
 and watercress. 
 
 BREAST OF CHICKEN STEAMED, SAUCE 
 SUPREME — Spring chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed, trussed and steamed till done, taken 
 up, breasts removed and skinned, then put into 
 Supreme sauce and served with it, garnished 
 with kidney beans (flageolets). 
 
 BROILED CHICKEN LEGS WITH GREEN 
 PEAS— The steamed legs of the preceding re- 
 cipe, skinned, then laid for an hour in a mix- 
 ture of olive oil, lemon juice, red pepper, salt 
 and Worcestershire sauce, then broiled slowly 
 to a golden color; served with a frill on the 
 shank, resting on a slice of buttered toast, gar- 
 nished with French peas made hot in tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH ARTI- 
 CHOKE BOTTOMS— Spring chickens singed, 
 split down the back, breastbone and backbone 
 removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
 in flour, then in beaten eggs and fried in hot 
 fat till done; artichoke bottoms spread with 
 chicken forcemeat arranged in a sautoir, moist- 
 ened with a very little consomme, reduced and 
 glazed, the chicken served with a little Colbert 
 sauce, and garnished with the bottoms. 
 
 FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH HOMINY 
 FRITTERS — The chickens prepared and fried 
 as in the preceding; fine hominy boiled down 
 to mush, cooled, cut in shapes, then breaded 
 and fried, the chicken served with cream sauce 
 and a strip of broiled bacon, garnished with 
 the fritters. 
 
 FRIED CHICKEN WITH RICE AND OKRAS 
 — Cold joints of cooked chicken dipped in thick 
 cold tomato sauce, then in bread crumbs, then 
 breaded and arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
 roasted and basted with butter till brown and 
 frothy; rice boiled dry, then mixed with boiled 
 fresh or canned okras and a little tomato sauce, 
 the chicken served with a little tomato sauce, 
 and garnished with small mounds of the rice 
 and okras turned out of a timbale mold. 
 
 DEVILLED SPRING CHICKEN WITH 
 GREEN PEAS — Spring chickens singed, split 
 
 down the back, breastbone and backbone re" 
 moved, thigh bone snapped, seasoned, laid for 
 an hour in Worcestershire sauce, olive oil, 
 tarragon vinegar, chopped chives and chervil, 
 taken up, rolled in flour, then in melted butter 
 and slowly broiled well done; served with 
 Diable sauce, and garnished with French peas 
 that have been washed, drained and sauteed in 
 butter. 
 
 FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH CARDINAL 
 SAUCE — Spring chickens singed, split, breast- 
 bone and backbone removed, thigh bone snap- 
 ped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in 
 flour and fried a golden brown with butter; 
 served with Cardinal sauce poured under and 
 around, garnished with slices of truffles that 
 have been stewed in sherry wine. 
 
 STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN, PERI- 
 GUEUX SAUCE — Breasts of young chickens 
 split open and filled with quenelle forcemeat, 
 arranged in a sautoir with slices of salt pork, 
 white stock and butter, simmered till tender; 
 served resting on fancy croutons with perigueux 
 sauce. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE RAVIGOTE— 
 Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, jointed, then 
 arranged in a sautoir with nutmeg, lemon, 
 celery and sliced onions, moistened with white 
 stock, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till 
 tender. Chives, parsley, shallots, chervil and 
 tarragon shred and blanched, onion rings 
 steamed till tender; served, the chicken with 
 ravigote sauce poured around, garnished with 
 rings of onions filled with the blanched herbs. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE PROVENCALE 
 — Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
 jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
 in flour, sauteed in olive oil with minced shal- 
 lots and garlic, taken up into another sautoir 
 with sliced tomatoes, moistened with claret 
 wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered till ten- 
 der, finished with lemon juice ?nd chopped 
 parsley; served with the sauce and tomatoes. 
 
 SPRING CHICKEN IN BATTER WITH 
 FRIED ONIONS — Spring chickens singed, 
 split, backbone and breastbone removed, thigh 
 bone snapped, blanched in white stock a few 
 minutes, taken up and drained, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, 
 then dipped in batter and slowly fried in hot 
 fat; rings of onions steamed for a few minutes, 
 then dipped in milk, then flour, fined crisp in 
 hot fat; served as a garnish to the chicken. 
 
 STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH 
 CUCUMBERS — Breasts of spring chickens 
 that have been steamed whole not quite done, 
 trimmed, spread with chicken forcemeat, then 
 dipped in beaten eggs, then sprinkled with 
 grated lean cooked ham, minced truffle peelings 
 and breadcrumbs, arranged in a baking pan, 
 moistened with a little melted butter, slowly 
 heated and browned; served garnished with a 
 puree of cucumbers. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 53 
 
 CHICKEN SAUSAGES, SAUCE HOLLAN- 
 DAISE — Raw chicken meat without skin three- 
 fifths, cooked chicken meat one-fifth, cooked 
 tongue and mushrooms mixed one-fifth, all 
 minced together, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg and powdered thyme, formed into sau- 
 sage shapes, lightly breaded, arranged in bak- 
 ing pan with bacon trimmings and butter, 
 slowly roasted and basted till done; served 
 with Hollandaise sauce. 
 SOUFFLES OF CHICKEN— Breasts of raw 
 chicken pounded to a paste, then rubbed 
 through a fine sieve and mixed with separately 
 beaten whites and yolks of eggs, seasoned with 
 butter, cream, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and 
 lemon juice, filled into fancy paper cases, the 
 top sprinkled with sifted bread crumbs and 
 melted butter, slowly baked, the served imme- 
 diately. 
 CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH TRUFFLES, 
 SAUCE SUPREME -Chicken quenelle force- 
 meat shaped like eggs between two spoons, 
 poached in seasoned white stock, taken up and 
 drained, then dipped in Supreme sauce; served 
 with it, arranged on serving dish in fours, two 
 of them sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. 
 CANNELON OF CHICKEN, TARTAR SAUCE 
 — Cannelon case made of puff paste (see Can- 
 nelons) filled with chicken forcemeat, slowly 
 heated through; served with tartar sauce, gar- 
 nished with watercress. 
 CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FRIED, TOMATO 
 SAUCE — Chicken forcemeat rolled with pointed 
 ends size of a finger, resembling a cigar in 
 shape, breaded, fried; served with tomato 
 sauce. 
 SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH RICE AND 
 LEEKS — -Young chickens singed, drawn, 
 washed, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 then lightly sauteed with minced onions and 
 ham in butter, taken up into a sautoir, sauce 
 made in the pan they were fried in, strained 
 over the chickens, simmered till tender, rice 
 boiled dry; then mixed with some of the sauce; 
 served as a border to the chicken, which is 
 further garnished with fried shredded leeks. 
 CHICKEN SAUTE WITH POTATO BALLS 
 — Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, 
 steamed for five minutes, then taken up and 
 separated into four neat joints, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, fried with butter to a golden 
 color; balls scooped out of raw potatoes steamed 
 nearly done, then fried in butter like the chick- 
 ens, both of which are then sprinkled with fine 
 parsley; served, the joints dipped in hot Col- 
 bert sauce surrounded with the potatoes. 
 CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN— Fancy crous- 
 tades made of paste filled with a salpicon of 
 chicken; garnished with watercress. 
 CHICKEN HASH WITH PEPPERS ON 
 TOAST — Cold cooked chicken without skin 
 cut into very small squares, green peppers 
 
 WITH EGGS ON 
 
 chicken without skin 
 
 paste, then rubbed 
 
 shred and blanched, both mixed and simmered 
 in a rich Veloute sauce; served on toast. 
 MINCED CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGG 
 — Cold cooked chicken without skin cut into 
 very small squares, mixed into and heated with 
 Bechamel sauce; served on toast with a trim- 
 med poached egg on top, the yolk sprinkled 
 with parsley dust. 
 CHICKEN HASH WITH STUFFED PEP- 
 PERS — Small green peppers split, cleaned and 
 blanched, filled with chicken forcemeat, ar- 
 ranged in a sautoir, moistened with a little 
 consomme, lid put on and simmered till done; 
 the minced chicken on toast of the preceding 
 recipe served garnished with the stuffed 
 peppers. 
 CHICKEN FRITTERS, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
 — Cold roast tender chicken in joints, laid for 
 an hour in vinegar with chopped chives, taken 
 up, breaded and fried; served with Piquante 
 sauce. 
 CHICKEN PANADA 
 TOAST— Cold cooked 
 minced and pounded to 
 through a fine sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity of 
 fresh bread crumbs, moistened with cream, 
 made hot; served heaped high on toast with a 
 trimmed poached egg on top. 
 POTTED CHICKEN FOR SANDWICHES— 
 Two parts of cold cooked chicken meat without 
 skin, one part cooked ham, one part butter, the 
 meat minced and pounded to a paste with the 
 butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve, sea- 
 soned with mace, salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
 packed into small jars, sealed with melted but- 
 ter, and stored away in ice box for use. 
 TIMBALES OF CHICKEN WITH FORCE- 
 MEAT BALLS— Timbale molds lined with a 
 quenelle forcemeat, then filled with scallops of 
 braised chicken and slices of mushrooms and 
 truffles, the bottom then covered with force- 
 meat, molds arranged in a baking pan contain- 
 ing a little water, baked till set; served turned 
 out with sauce Bressoise poured around, and 
 garnished with small balls of poached force- 
 meat. 
 CHICKEN SAUTE WITH OYSTERS— Large 
 oysters blanched and drained; young chickens 
 singed, drawn, blanched, jointed, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in butter, 
 taken up into a sautoir, gravy made in the pan 
 they were fried in, using stock and the strained 
 oyster liquor, boiled up and skimmed, then 
 strained over the chicken, which is now sim- 
 mered till tender; the oysters sprinkled with 
 parsley and sauteed in butter for each order; 
 served, the chicken in joints garnished with the 
 oysters sautees. 
 CAPILOTADE OF CHICKEN — Cold roast 
 chickens cut into neatly trimmed joints, ar- 
 ranged in a sautoir, covered with a brown 
 
54 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Italian sauce, simmered in it for fifteen minutes 
 then served garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 COLLOPS OF CHICKEN WITH MACAR- 
 ONI— Cold cooked chicken without skin cut 
 into thin slices about the size of a quarter of a 
 dollar, made hot in a rich Bechamel sauce; 
 macaroni broken into inch lengths, boiled in 
 boiling salted water, taken up and drained, 
 then mixed with Parmesan cheese and a little 
 Bechamel sauce; served, the macaroni as a 
 border sprinkled with parsley dust, the chicken 
 piled high in the center, garnished with strips 
 of cooked red tongue. 
 
 HASHED CHICKEN AND HAM WITH RICE 
 — Chicken cut the same as in the preceding 
 recipe, thin slices of lean cooked ham cut out 
 with a column cutter, both mixed and made 
 hot in Veloute sauce. Rice washed and then 
 boiled in chicken broth till moisture is all gone 
 and the grains soft, then mixed with a liaison 
 of egg yolks and Veloute sauce, seasoned with 
 red pepper and nutmeg; served, the rice as a 
 border, the ham and chicken in sauce piled 
 high in the center. 
 
 GIBLET AND POTATO PIE— Gizzards, hearts, 
 livers, necks and second joints of the wings of 
 chickens stewed tender with pieces of salt pork, 
 then put in a baking pan with slices of hard 
 boiled eggs, chopped parsley and a glass of 
 sherry wine, (having plenty of sauce) the pie 
 then covered three-quarters of an inch thick 
 with mashed potatoes, edges crimped, washed 
 over with beaten egg and baked. 
 
 GIBLET PIE — Pie pans lined on the sides with 
 thin short paste, filled with the stewed giblets 
 of the preceding recipe, covered with short 
 paste, egg washed and baked. 
 
 GIBLET POT PIE— The preceding stewed gib. 
 lets either kept hot in the sautoir and dump- 
 lings dropped over it, lid put on and simmered 
 till dumplings are done; or the stew turned into 
 a baking pan, the dumplings dropped close 
 together all over it, then put in oven till dump- 
 lings are done. 
 
 STEWED CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH RICE 
 — Hearts, gizzards, livers, necks and second 
 joints of the wings of chickens, also small 
 pieces of raw salt pork and minced onions, all 
 fried lightly with butter, then sprinkled with 
 flour, shook together, moistened with stock t 
 simmered till tender, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs (which are to be 
 removed when done); served in the center of a 
 border of dry boiled rice, or barley, or oatmeal. 
 
 SAUTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST 
 — The livers with gall removed, washed and 
 wiped, then sauteed with minced onions in 
 butter, taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and lemon juice, moistened with 
 Madeira wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered 
 for a few minutes; served on toast garnished 
 with croutons. 
 
 .STEWED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MUSH- 
 ROOMS — The preceding stew placed in the 
 center of dish without toast, and served sur- 
 rounded with button mushrooms that have been 
 sauteed in butter and sprinkled with chopped 
 chervil. 
 
 CHICKEN LIVERS IN CASES— The livers 
 sautees above cut in dice, filled into fancy 
 paper cases, that have been lined with chicken 
 forcemeat and heated; mushrooms and truffles 
 in dice to be added to the livers. 
 
 CHICKEN LIVER FORCE M E AT — Equal 
 weight of blanched chicken livers and lean 
 cooked ham with two ounces of butter to each 
 pound of meat, the meat minced, pounded to a 
 paste, rubbed through a fine sieve, then thor- 
 oughly incorporated with the butter, together 
 with a little puree of mushrooms and truffles, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chop- 
 ped parsley, then stored for use. 
 
 BROCHETTE OR CROUSTADES OF CHICK- 
 EN LIVERS— For recipes of which see "BRO- 
 CHETTE" and "CROUSTADE". 
 
 OMELET OF CHICKEN LIVERS— The livers 
 blanched then cut in slices with mushrooms, 
 sauteed in butter, moistened with wine and 
 brown sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 lemon juice, sprinkled with chopped parsley, 
 enclosed within a savory omelet; served with 
 more of the livers in sauce poured around. 
 
 ROAST CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST— 
 Blanched chicken livers masked all over with 
 "chicken liver forcemeat" then wrapped in 
 buttered paper, arranged in a baking pan and 
 baked for fifteen minutes, taken up, paper re- 
 moved; served on toast with Madeira sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 RAGOUT OF CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH 
 POTATO CROQUETTES — Livers, hearts, 
 gizzards, pieces of salt pork and button mush- 
 rooms sauteed, then mixed with Madeira sauce, 
 placed in center of dish garnished with small 
 potato croquettes. 
 
 GIBLET SAUCE — Gizzards, hearts and necks 
 boiled till tender with an onion, livers blanched, 
 then sauteed with butter, taken up, sauce made 
 in the pan they were sauteed in with the stock 
 from the giblets; livers, hearts and meat from 
 the gizzards then cut fine and mixed into the 
 sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
 finished with sherry wine and chopped parsley. 
 
 CHICKEN GIBLET SOUP— Gizzards, hearts, 
 necks and wings boiled till tender with some 
 roast fowl bones in chicken stock, hearts and 
 gizzards then taken up and cut into dice to- 
 gether with some sauteed livers, roux made and 
 moistened with the stock, boiled up and skim- 
 med; washed rice, finely cut carrots, turnips, 
 and onions then boiled in the soup till tender, 
 then is added the cut meats; finished by sea- 
 soning with Worcestershire sauce, sherry wine, 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 55 
 
 PUREE OF CHICKEN— Roux made and moist- 
 ened with chicken stock, cream and almond 
 milk, when boiling, further thickened with some 
 cooked chicken meat that has been pounded 
 and rubbed through a fine sieve, seasoned with 
 salt, nutmeg and red pepper; small squares of 
 cooked breast of chicken then added; served 
 with small croutons. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP WITH VEGETABLES — 
 Cold roast fowl bones and gravy with some 
 vegetable trimmings boiled in stock till well 
 flavored, roux made and moistened with the 
 strained stock, boiled up and skimmed, shred- 
 ded cooked vegetables and shreds of chicken 
 then added and served. 
 
 CHICKEN CONSOMME — A few veal bones 
 and chopped veal trimmings, slices of carrot, 
 onions, celery, with whole mace, salt, red 
 pepper, broken egg shells and beaten whites of 
 eggs, stirred together with a little broken clean 
 ice, then moistened with skimmed and strained 
 poultry stock that has had a piece of salt pork 
 boiled in it, brought slowly to the boil, then 
 simmered till clear, strained through a towel; 
 small squares of breast of cooked chicken then 
 added, seasoned (but use no wine) and served. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH RICE— The strained 
 and skimmed stock in which fowls and a piece 
 of salt pork and some vegetables have been 
 boiled, is slightly thickened with corn starch, 
 dry boiled rice, and pieces of chicken meat 
 then added, seasoned and served. 
 
 CHICKEN GUMBO — Roast chicken bones, 
 minced onion and some ham knuckle meat fried 
 in butter with a few bay leaves and a pod of 
 red pepper, flour then added, moistened with 
 poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, a half 
 roasted chicken then added and simmered till 
 tender; chicken then taken up and the stock 
 strained into another saucepan in which is 
 either canned okra, okra powder, or fresh okra 
 sliced, also some boiled rice and pieces of 
 chicken meat; boiled up till greeny and gela- 
 tinous; seasoned and served. 
 
 CREAM OF CHICKEN— Some veal bones and 
 trimmings with a little whole mace, celery and 
 onions are boiled in poultry stock, cold cooked 
 chicken meat pounded, then rubbed through a 
 sieve, moistened with the skimmed and strained 
 stock, boiled up, seasoned with salt, red pepper 
 and nutmeg, then finished with some boiling 
 cream. 
 
 CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH RICE— Roux 
 made and moistened with strong poultry stock, 
 boiled up and skimmed, little boiling cream 
 then added together with pieces of chicken 
 meat and dry boiled rice; seasoned with salt 
 and red pepper. 
 
 CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH QUENELLES 
 — Roux made and moistened with poultry 
 stock, boiled up and skimmed, then is worked 
 into it a liaison of egg yolks and cream; sea- 
 
 soned with salt and red pepper, then strained 
 into another saucepan, containing flowerets of 
 cooked cauliflower balls of cooked carrot, 
 pieces of chicken meat, and some poached 
 quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of them to 
 be colored green. 
 
 PUREE OF CHICKEN WITH TOMATOED 
 QUENELLES — ■ A puree of chicken soup 
 strained into another saucepan containing 
 poached quenelles that have had a stiff tomato 
 puree worked into the forcemeat; seasoned and 
 served. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE AND LEEKS 
 — Poultry stock slightly thickened with roux, 
 plenty of shredded leeks boiled in it with some 
 rice; when done and seasoned, pieces of chicken 
 meat added. (The Scotch call this soup 
 "COCK-A-LEEKIE"). 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, CREOLE STYLE — Raw 
 chicken meat cut into small pieces and fried 
 with minced onions in olive oil, then little flour 
 added, stirred, moistened with consomme, 
 boiled up and skimmed, then is added shred 
 lean ham and green peppers, simmered for half 
 an hour, then raw peeled and sliced tomatoes 
 together with well washed rice and a bunch of 
 soup herbs is simmered in it till done. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE— 
 Raw chicken meat cut small together with 
 minced onions fried in butter, flour added and 
 stirred, moistened with poultry stock, boiled 
 up and skimmed, then is added a Julienne of 
 vegetables and a little well washed rice, sim- 
 mered till done, seasoned and served. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, SOUTHERN STYLE— Raw 
 chicken meat cut small, minced onions, shred- 
 ded green peppers all fried together with butter, 
 little flour then added and stirred, moistened 
 with poultry stock, seasoned lightly with curry 
 powder, salt and red pepper, boiled up and 
 skimmed, then is added equal quantities of lima 
 beans and sugar corn together with half their 
 bulk of okras; simmered till done. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, TURKISH STYLE— Shred- 
 ded raw chicken meat, ham and green peppers 
 with sliced onions fried together with butter, 
 little flour added and stirred, moistened with 
 consomme, boiled up and skimmed, seasoned 
 with st.'t, red pepper and a dash of curry pow- 
 der, then is added washed rice and tomato 
 puree equaling half the bulk of the stock; when 
 rice is done, served. 
 
 CHICKEN SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE — Roux 
 made, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up 
 and skimmed, then is added a liaison of egg 
 yolks and cream, when thickened, strained into 
 a tureen containing squares of cooked chicken 
 meat and chopped chervil, seasoned and served. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH CUSTARDS — 
 Good poultry stock seasoned, then lightly thick- 
 ened with corn starch, strained into a tureen 
 containing a macedoine of vegetables and shapes 
 
56 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 of custard made by taking twelve yolks of eggs 
 and a pint of cold chicken broth seasoned with 
 salt and red pepper, thoroughly mixed without 
 beating, then poured into buttered pans, 
 steamed till set, cut into shapes when cold. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH ASPARAGUS 
 TIPS— Same as the preceding, using the shapes 
 of custards but substituting asparagus tips for 
 the macedoine of vegetables. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH SPRING VEGE- 
 TABLES— Strong poultry stock thickened very 
 lightly with corn starch, seasoned, boiled up 
 and skimmed, then further thickened with 
 young tender carrots, turnips, green onions, 
 leeks and green cabbage all cut into small dice- 
 boiled in the stock with a handful of rice til 1 
 done, then is added squares of chicken meat; 
 seasoned and served. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH ARTICHOKES— 
 Strong poultry stock thickened lightly with corn 
 starch, seasoned, boiled up and skimmed, then 
 further thickened with a liaison of egg yolks 
 and cream, strained into a tureen with chicken 
 meat and diced artichokes. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH POACHED EGG— 
 Same as "Chicken Broth with Custards" but 
 substituting a soft poached egg for each plate. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH SORREL- Strong 
 poultry stock thickened with a liaison of egg 
 yolks and cream, seasoned, strained into a 
 tureen containing boiled vermicelli and stewed 
 sorrel. 
 CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES — Strong 
 poultry stock thickened with flour and butter, 
 seasoned with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, 
 straining it afterwards into a tureen containing 
 boiled noodles, chopped chervil and pieces of 
 chicken meat. 
 CHICKEN BROTH WITH ONIONS — Thick- 
 ened poultry stock seasoned, then strained into 
 a tureen containing very small boiled onions 
 and green peas. 
 CHICKEN SOUP WITH PEAS PUREE — 
 Fresh green peas boiled with a bunch of green 
 mint in chicken stock, thickened lightly with 
 roux, mint then removed, and the soup rubbed 
 through a fine sieve, boiled up again and skim- 
 med, seasoned, then strained into a tureen con- 
 taining chopped chervil and shred lettuce. 
 CHICKEN SALAD— Tender, juicy cold cooked 
 chicken cut into small dice, with an equal quan- 
 tity of hearts of celery, mixed, seasoned with 
 salt, red pepper, mayonnaise and a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar; a cold serving dish rubbed 
 with garlic, covered with crisp, tender, lettuce 
 leaves, salad placed in the center masked with 
 mayonnaise, smoothed, decorated with capers, 
 beetroot and hard boiled egg. 
 CHICKEN SALAD— Round croquettes made of 
 chicken, ham, tongue, mushrooms and truffles, 
 breaded and fried, allowed to become cold, 
 then split in halves and set around a bed of 
 
 mixed shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned 
 with French dressing. 
 CHICKEN SALAD— Two parts of mayonnaise 
 and one part of limpid aspic jelly beaten to- 
 gether, individual patty pans or timbale molds 
 decorated and lined with the beaten mixture, 
 then filled with scallops of chicken dressed with 
 Remoulade sauce, a few capers and slices of 
 stoned olives, covered with some of the beaten 
 mixture, set till firm, then turned out on to a 
 bed of shredded lettuce garnished with shred- 
 ded anchovies and gherkins. 
 CHICKEN MAYONNAISE— Cold roast chickens 
 cut into joints, steeped for an hour in a mixture 
 of salt, pepper, olive oil and tarragon vinegar, 
 then taken up and masked with mayonnaise 
 sauce, served on shred lettuce, garnished with 
 quartered hard boiled eggs, pickled beets and 
 stoned olives or pimentoes. 
 CHICKEN MAYONNAISE — Boned roasted 
 chicken, pressed, sliced, coated with mayon- 
 naise, served garnished with green peas and 
 asparagus points that are dressed with French 
 dressing, and cubes of savory jelly. 
 CHIFFONADE — French term for a mixture of 
 shredded sorrel, lettuce, chervil and parsley 
 that is used to put in soups a few minutes be- 
 fore serving them. 
 CHIPOLATA — Name of an Italian garnish com- 
 posed of little veal sausages, glazed balls of 
 carrot and turnip, roasted and peeled chestnuts, 
 pieces of broiled bacon and button mushrooms, 
 all mixed into a rich brown sauce flavored with 
 sherry wine. 
 CHIVES — A flavoring herb of the onion species, 
 grows like the tops of spring onions, deep green 
 in color and very strong in flavor; such dishes 
 as "Civet of Rabbit", "Ragout of Hare", etc., 
 are strongly impregnated with chives. 
 CHOCOLATE — A wholesome, nutritive flesh 
 forming article of food, greatly used in confec- 
 tionery, icings, cakes, etc.; when served as a 
 drink it is made into a paste with milk, then 
 boiling milk added to the consistency of thin 
 cream, allowed to simmer for a few minutes 
 before serving. 
 CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE — Milk and 
 sugar brought to the boil in two separate sauce- 
 pans, then corn starch mixed with milk beaten 
 into both, one to be flavored with vanilla, the 
 other to have melted chocolate and a little 
 butter beaten into it, molds dipped into cold 
 water, the chocolate mixture poured in half 
 way up, then the vanilla used to fill with, set 
 to cool, turned out, served with sweetened and 
 vanilla flavored cream. 
 CHOCOLATE CREAM FRITTERS— The choc- 
 olate part of the preceding recipe made a little 
 stiffer than for blanc-mange, turned into shal- 
 low pans, allowed to set till firm and cold, then 
 cut into shapes, double breaded and fried, 
 served dusted with powdered sugar and with 
 apricot marmalade or sauce poured around. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 57 
 
 CHOCOLATE CAKE— One pound each of but- 
 ter, powdered sugar and grated chocolate, 
 sugar and butter creamed together, chocolate 
 dissolved in a pint of milk, then worked into 
 the cream with eight yolks of eggs, three-quart- 
 ers of a pound of flour and two teaspoonfuls of 
 baking powder and the whipped whites of eight 
 eggs then lightly stirred in, poured into but- 
 tered and papered pans, slowly baked till done, 
 about one hour. 
 CHOCOLATE CREAM— Three pints of double 
 cream whipped stiff, to which is then added 
 sugar to taste, one ounce of gelatine, juice of a 
 lemon, and half a pound of melted chocolate, 
 poured into molds, and set on ice; the tops of 
 molds may be decorated before pouring in the 
 cream. 
 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM — Pure cream 
 sugared to taste, half a pound of chocolate to 
 the gallon, the chocolate dissolved and mixed 
 into some LUKEWARM cream, then strained 
 into the sweetened cream, flavored slightly with 
 vanilla, strained into a freezer and frozen. 
 CHOCOLATE CUP CUSTARDS— Two quarts 
 of milk, four ounces of chocolate and one pound 
 of sugar mixed and brought to the boil, six 
 yolks of eggs and two ounces of corn starch 
 worked together with a little milk, the boiling 
 mixture stirred into it, put back on the range 
 and stirred till it just thickens, then flavored 
 with vanilla, poured through a conical strainer 
 into cups; when all filled, the cups arranged 
 into a baking pan containing a little water 
 baked slowly till done, served cold with cream 
 poured around. 
 CHOCOLATE ICING — One pound of sifted 
 sugar (powdered) and six whites of eggs thor- 
 oughly beaten till stiff, then flavored with van- 
 illa and four ounces of melted chocolate. 
 CHOCOLATE PUDDING — Same mixture as 
 given for "Chocolate Cup Custards" baked in 
 a pan, served cold with whipped cream, or 
 sweetened and flavored plain cream. 
 CHOCOLATE PUDDING— One pound each of 
 butter and sugar creamed together, ten egges 
 worked into the cream one at a time, fourteen 
 ounces of sifted flour and two ounces of grated 
 chocolate then lightly stirred in, flavored with 
 vanilla, poured into buttered molds, steamed 
 till done, served hot with sauce. 
 CHOCOLATE FLOAT— Small cold "Chocolate 
 Cup Custards" turned out into deep sauce dish, 
 surrounded with a piping of whipped cream 
 the cream then decorated with colored win, 
 jelly chopped fine. 
 CHOUX-PASTE— Is the name of a batter made 
 of a pint of water, eight ounces of lard or but- 
 ter, nine ounces of flour and ten eggs. Water 
 and lard is brought to the boil, flour then 
 added all at once and worked over the fire till 
 it is cooked into a smooth paste, allowed then 
 to slightly cool, the eggs then beaten in one at 
 a time; its consistency must be so that it will 
 
 just fall off from a spoon; from it is prepared 
 "Bell Fritters", "Queen Fritters", "Cream 
 Puffs and Eclairs", "Spanish Puffs", "Pra- 
 lines", "Croquenbouchecs", "Choux Croutons", 
 etc., etc. 
 
 CHOW CHOW— One gallon each of cut string- 
 less beans, very small white onions, green 
 gherkins and flowerets of cauliflower, two 
 pounds of dry mustard, two gallons of white 
 wine vinegar, two ounces each of turmeric and 
 mustard seed, two pounds of sugar and one pint 
 of olive oil. The cauliflower, beans and onions 
 boiled separately till tender, the gherkins 
 soaked in strong salted water for one day, then 
 mixed together and filled into crocks; the vine- 
 gar brought to the boil, mustard and turmeric 
 mixed and moistened with a little vinegar, then 
 stirred into the boiling vinegar; when it begins 
 to thicken, the mustard seed, sugar and oil are 
 stirred in, poured boiling hot over the vege- 
 tables in the crocks, then put away for use. 
 
 CHUTNEY — A table condiment imported from 
 the East Indies, and purchasable at the grocery 
 stores in bottles, may be made as follows: One 
 and a half pints of vinegar, two ounces of whole 
 ginger bruised, one ounce each of chilies and 
 mustard seed, two ounces of salt and twelve 
 ounces of sugar all boiled together for three 
 quarters of an hour, then strained through a 
 hair sieve. Put the strained vinegar to boil 
 again with one large onion shredded, one 
 crushed clove of garlic, six shallots, two ounces 
 of seedless raisins and two pounds of peeled 
 and sliced apples, boil until they are quite soft, 
 then put into stone jars, tie over with skin or 
 parchment paper and keep for use. 
 
 CIDER — Apple juice obtained by pressure, then 
 fermented and matured. 
 
 CINNAMON — A spice which may be purchased 
 ground or in stick form, used as a flavoring for 
 cakes, puddings, liqueurs, cordials, syrups, 
 sauces, etc. 
 
 CISCO — One of the small fish of the lakes, re- 
 sembling in size and appearance the fresh water 
 herring. 
 
 FILLETS OF CISCO IN BATTER— The fish 
 scaled and filleted free from bone, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, dipped into a thin batter, 
 fried; served with or without tomato sauce and 
 garnished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 BROILED CISCO, LEMON PARSLEY 
 SAUCE — -The fish scaled, drawn, washed, 
 wiped and the sides scored, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, rolled in olive oil, then in flour, 
 broiled and baited till done; served with maitre 
 d'hotel butter poured over, and garnished with 
 lemon and chip potatoes. 
 
 CISCO SAUTE, JULIENNE POTATOES— 
 Prepared as in the preceding recipe, rolled in 
 flour, slowly fried a delicate brown with butter, 
 served with some of the butter over it, gar- 
 nished with Julienne potatoes, lemon and 
 parsley. 
 
58 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CITRIC ACID— A crystal obtained from acid 
 fruits; used by confectioners and caterers, pop 
 and soda water manufacturers. Street vendors 
 at the fairs simply dissolve it in water, sweeten 
 it, fill it into glasses, place a thin slice of lemon 
 in and sell it for lemonade; also flavor it with a 
 little oil of raspberry, strawberry, etc., adding 
 a drop or two of carmine, and sell it as rasp- 
 berryade, strawberryade, etc. 
 
 CITRON — A large fruit of the lemon species, 
 the peel is blanched, then boiled in syrup and 
 subsequently dried; used in cakes, puddings, 
 ices, jellies, cordials, liqueurs, etc. 
 
 CITRON CAKE— One pound each of butter and 
 sugar creamed together, ten eggs then worked 
 in one at a time, then a wine glass of brandy, 
 one pound of sifted flour, and half a pound of 
 shredded citron. 
 
 CLAMS — A favorite American shellfish, the 
 "Little Neck" clam being the favored kind for 
 eating from the shell, the large hard clams for 
 soups and chowders, and the soft clam for 
 broiling and frying. 
 
 CLAM CHOWDER— Salt pork cut into dice and 
 fried till light brown. Fish broth and clam 
 liquor in equal parts brought to the boil, skim- 
 med, sliced onions and potatoes then put in and 
 boiled till barely done, then is added the fried 
 salt pork and scalded clams cut in dice; sea- 
 soned with pepper, ground mace and salt; 
 brought to the boil again, and poured to an 
 equal quantity of thin white sauce; finished 
 with a few rolled crackers and chopped parsley. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA CLAM CHOWDER — Like 
 the preceding but substituting tomatoes and 
 tomato sauce for the white sauce and adding a 
 flavor of thyme. 
 
 CLAM BROTH- May be made to order at rest- 
 aurants by simply chopping some large clams 
 and scalding them in clam liquor, then straining 
 into the serving bowl or cup. 
 
 CLAM STEW — Plain or with milk or cream; 
 generally sold in restaurants by the half or 
 dozen (it is customary to give seven and four- 
 teen to the half or dozen); scald the clams with 
 clam liquor, take off the scum, pour into a 
 bowl, add a piece of butter and serve, if for 
 plain; if for a milk or cream stew, scald the 
 milk or cream separately, pour the clams and 
 liquor into the bowl first, then add an equal 
 quantity of the milk, season with butter and 
 serve with crackers. 
 
 ROAST CLAMS— May be either served in the 
 shell or on toast. Large clams washed, ar- 
 ranged on baking sheet, put in hot oven till 
 they open. If served in the shell the top shell 
 is removed, the clam separated from the lower, 
 little melted butter then placed in each and 
 served. If to be served on toast, the toast 
 should be cut in strips, buttered, the clams 
 placed neatly on it, melted butter brushed over 
 them; served with lemon and crackers. 
 
 BROILED CLAMS— The soft clam is best for 
 this dish, but the ordinary large clam is ser- 
 viceable; they should be drained, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter 
 then rolled in fresh sifted bread crumbs, broiled; 
 served on toast, garnished with lemon and 
 watercress. 
 
 FRIED CLAMS — Drained, seasoned, dipped in 
 melted butter, rolled in sifted bread crumbs, 
 then in beaten eggs and again in crumbs; fried 
 in clear butter or in hot fat; served garnished 
 with lemon and watercress. 
 
 STEAMED CLAMS — Large clams scrubbed, 
 arranged on the wire false bottom of a fish 
 kettle with a little water under them, lid then 
 put on, placed over a quick fire; when the 
 upper shell is loosened, it is removed, the clam 
 separated from the lower, little melted butter 
 put in each, served very hot with lemon and 
 crackers. 
 
 CLAM FRITTERS— Soft clams seasoned, then 
 dipped in batter and fried; or large clams 
 chopped, then mixed in batter and fried by 
 spoonfuls in hot fat; served with a cream sauce 
 made with clam liquor. 
 
 SCALLOPED CLAMS— Clams scalded and cut 
 into neat pieces, sauce made of their liquor, 
 the clams mixed in, and either filled into large 
 clam or scallop shells, the tops sprinkled with 
 sifted crumbs and melted butter, then browned 
 in the oven; served in the shell. 
 
 CLAM CROQUETTES— Scalded clams cut into 
 small neat pieces (not chopped). Thick sauce 
 made of the liquor, the cut clams put back 
 into it; when thoroughly reheated, poured into 
 a buttered shallow pan, smoothed with a knife, 
 covered with a sheet of greased paper and 
 allowed to become cold and set, then cut in 
 even sized pieces, shaped, breaded, fried; 
 servsd with a clam sauce poured around. 
 
 CLAM FORCEMEAT —Scalded clams finely 
 minced with an equal quantity of canned mush- 
 rooms, a little minced onion fried in butter, 
 flour added, moistened with the clam and 
 mushroom liquor, boiled up, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, little dry mustard, a suspicion of garlic, 
 and some chopped parsley; then is added the 
 clams and mushrooms, boiled up slowly for ten 
 minutes, remove and work in a few beaten egg 
 yolks till of a stiff consistency, put away to cool 
 for use. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF CLAMS— The clams scalded 
 in their own liquor, then strained, equal amount 
 of milk and liquor boiled separately, flour and 
 butter in a saucepan seasoned with red pepper 
 and a little nutmeg moistened with the liquor, 
 then finished to the desired consistency with 
 the boiling milk; when boiled up, finished with 
 a few beaten yolks of eggs, the clams cut either 
 in halves if small, or in neat pieces if large, 
 added to the sauce; served either on toast, or 
 with a border of fancy mashed potatoes, or in 
 scallop shells. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 59 
 
 CLAM SOUP— CREAM OF CLAMS— Same as 
 the preceding recipe, but having the soup of 
 the consistency of thin cream; when serving, a 
 sprinkling of chopped parsley or celery leaves 
 put into each plate. 
 
 BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE SOUP 
 OR FRICASSEE BOIL AFTER THE EGGS 
 ARE IN OR IT WILL CURDLE, AND YOU 
 CANNOT BRING IT BACK TO SMOOTH- 
 NESS WITHOUT YOU SPOIL THE FLAVOR. 
 CLARET — Name of a Southern French wine so 
 called abroad on account of its coior which is 
 distinctive. Used generally as a common din- 
 ner wine, although its best brands cannot be 
 too well eulogised. Its use in cookery is largely 
 for flavoring sauces, soups, braising meats and 
 fish, and for ices and jellies. 
 CLOVES — Name of a valuable spice obtained 
 from the buds of the tree. Used in its whole 
 form for seasoning many stews, sauces, soups, 
 especially turtle soup, where it takes the place 
 of the herb BASIL. It is a valuable addition 
 to apple dumplings, pies and sauces; in its 
 ground state is often adulterated with pimentos 
 and other inferior spices. The word clove is 
 also used to designate a clove or section of 
 garlic. 
 COBBLER — Name used in cookery to designate 
 a kind of pie used as a sweet entree; also in 
 the bartenders' guide to designate certain 
 mixed drinks. 
 
 COCOA — Name of a bean obtained from the 
 cocoa tree, from which is manufactured the 
 cocoa of commerce; used in cookery as a 
 breakfast and supper beverage; also the ex- 
 pressed oil of the nut is used as cocoa butter, 
 chiefly by confectioners. 
 
 COCOANUT--As generally seen in this country 
 is in shell form devoid of its fibrous husk. The 
 shell when broken shows the enclosed nut; 
 this is used in cookery (after having its dark 
 skin removed) chiefly by confectioners in mak- 
 ing cakes, puddings, ices, macaroons, etc.; can 
 be purchased for such work in dessicated form. 
 The milk of the cocoanut as the liquid is 
 called, is a valuable flavoring for curries, mulli- 
 gatawney soup, almond soup, etc. 
 
 COCOTTE — Name used in cookery to designate 
 a way of cooking eggs. The cocotte cups have 
 been recently placed on the market; they are 
 in cup form without handles and with screw 
 covers; the cups when to be used are slightly 
 buttered, the eggs broken in (keeping the yolks 
 whole) a spoonful of cream poured carefully 
 over them, the lid screwed on, the cups then 
 placed into boiling water or into a steamer; 
 they require two minutes longer than is re- 
 quired for boiled eggs; they are sent to the 
 table in the cup and the lid is simply loosened, 
 so as to be removed by the guest at his or her 
 pleasure, or by the waiter at the request of the 
 
 guest. The foreign term for this method of 
 cooking eggs is (OEUFS A LA COCOTTE). 
 
 COCHINEAL — Name of an insect obtained 
 chiefly from the shores of PHONOECIA; used 
 in cookery as a red coloring. For recipe see 
 "Carmine". 
 
 COCHON— A terra used sometimes on bills of 
 fare to designate PIG, such as ' 'pied de cochon" 
 pigs feet; "cochon de lait" suckling pig, etc. 
 
 COCKIE-LEEKIE— Name given by the Scotch 
 people for a soup in which a cock fowl and 
 leeks form the principal ingredients. 
 
 COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP— Young fowls (cocks 
 or hens) washed, trussed and lightly roasted, 
 then put into a white stock of veal or chicken 
 with some white parts of shredded leeks, salt, 
 and a few whole peppers; when the fowls are 
 nearly done, they are taken up, the meat picked 
 into shreds and placed into another saucepan 
 with an equal quantity of fresh shredded leeks, 
 the stock the fowls were boiled in being then 
 strained over; this is then brought to the boil, 
 skimmed, then simmered till the leeks are 
 tender (about half an hour), seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, then served. 
 
 COCKS-COMBS— Called by the French "Cretes 
 de coq" are the crests of the male domestic 
 fowl cut off and blanched; used in cookery as 
 parts of certain garnitures; are of no value as 
 a flavor, but are valuable as pleasing the eye 
 while the sauce tickles the palate; may be pur- 
 chased at the large groceries already for use 
 in bottles, generally mixed with the cocks ker- 
 nels (Spanish fries). 
 
 COCKS KERNELS— The testicles of the male 
 domestic fowl, situated in the middle of the 
 back of the bird; when to be cooked, they are 
 washed, blanched, skinned, and made into 
 fricassees, supremes, breaded and fried, com- 
 ponent parts of garnitures, etc. Often called 
 by gourmets, "Spanish fries"; purchasable in 
 bottles combined generally with cocks-combs. 
 COCKLES— Name of an English shellfish similar 
 in shape and flavor to the "little neck clam" 
 are imported into this country in small flat 
 cans (cooked). To be used they are taken from 
 the can and thoroughly washed in cold water 
 to rid them of a sandy sediment, they can then 
 be frizzled in butter and served very hot on 
 toast garnished with lemon and parsley, or 
 mixed into cream, Hollandaise, Supreme or 
 Normande sauces and served either on toast or 
 in croflstades, paper cases, with rice, or border 
 of shrimps, or they may be curried and served 
 with a border of rice. They are practically 
 new to the American public, and unless well 
 washed from their sediment will not be much 
 called for. 
 
 COCKTAILS — Name of a mixed drink; also ap- 
 plied in cookery to oysters and clams. 
 
6o 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 OYSTER COCKTAIL— Half a dozen freshly 
 opened small oysters dropped into a sherbet 
 glass, seasoned with a dash each of tabasco, 
 Worcestershire, tomato and Harvey sauces. 
 
 CLAM COCKTAIL— Same as the preceding, 
 using clams for oysters and omitting the Har- 
 vey sauce on account of its saline flavor. 
 
 NEPTUNE COCKTAIL— Three each freshly 
 opened small oysters and clams dropped into a 
 sherbet glass, seasoned with a few shreds of 
 fresh horseradish, a dash each of tomato and 
 walnut catsups, and a dash each of Worcester- 
 shire and tabasco sauces. 
 
 CODFISH— A staple salt water fish fit for hotel 
 use all the year round; caught on the New 
 England coast and in vast numbers off the 
 shores of Newfoundland. The Newfoundland 
 fisheries make a specialty of salting, drying 
 and smoking it, besides making "caviar" of 
 its roe and extracting the oil from its liver. 
 
 BAKED CODFISH, CAPER SAUCE— On ac- 
 count of its size the fish after cleansing is best 
 cut into portion pieces, seasoned with sa't and 
 pepper, rolled in flour, then dipped into melted 
 bacon fat or olive oil, arranged on a baking 
 pan, baked and browned on both sides, the 
 head boiled with an onion and grated carrot; 
 butter sauce made from the liquor, into which 
 is then added capers and caper vinegar; fish 
 served garnished with lemon and parsley, with 
 the sauce at one end of the fish. 
 
 BAKED CODFISH STUFFED WITH OY- 
 STERS — Small cod about six pounds each, 
 heads and fins removed, inside filled with an 
 oyster stuffing, sewn up, the back and sides 
 scored into portions, arranged in pan with a 
 few shredded vegetables, moistened with a little 
 fish broth, brushed over with butter, baked and 
 basted till done and glazy; served garnished 
 with a potato croquette and oyster sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 BAKED CODFISH, BREADCR UMBED — 
 Slices of the fish free from bones, laid for an 
 hour in a mixture of olive oil, vinegar, salt and 
 pepper, then taken up and drained, dipped in 
 butter, breadcrumbs, beaten eggs and again 
 breadcrumbs, arranged in baking pan, moist- 
 ened with a little white wine and oyster liquor, 
 baked a golden brown; served garnished with 
 Duchesse potatoes and lemon, with Hollandaise 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE— The fish 
 cut into portion pieces, washed, then laid 
 in salted water for an hour, taken up and 
 put to boil in cold salted water and milk; 
 as soon as the flesh is firm it is done, 
 take up, drain, serve garnished with boiled 
 small potatoes and egg sauce poured around. 
 Other good sauces to serve with boiled 
 cod are oyster, Bechamel and Holland- 
 aise. 
 
 BOILED COD STEAK WITH ANCHOVIES 
 — Sells well in restaurants. Cod steaks about 
 three-quarters of a pound in weight, laid in 
 salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted 
 water and milk, taken up and drained well; 
 served garnished with Hollandaise potatoes, 
 butter sauce containing plenty of shredded 
 salt anchovies poured over the steak. (Flem- 
 ish and Aurora sauces also go well with a 
 boiled cod steak.) 
 
 FRIED COD STEAK, TOMATO SAUCE— 
 The steaks laid in salted water for an hour, 
 then taken up and wiped dry; dipped in melted 
 butter, then flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a 
 golden color in oil; served garnished with Juli- 
 enne potatoes and tomato sauce poured around. 
 
 COD STEAK BREADCRUMBED, PARSLEY 
 SAUCE— The steaks laid in salted water for an 
 hour, then taken up and wiped dry, sprinkled 
 with a little lemon juice, dipped in beaten 
 eggs and fresh breadcrumbs, arranged in a 
 buttered pan, brushed over with melted butter 
 or bacon fat, baked and turned so that both 
 sides are brown; served with parsley sauce at 
 end of dish, and garnished with Parisienne 
 potatoes 
 
 FRIED COD CUTLET, PIQUANTE SAUCE 
 — Steaks cut from the middle of the fish, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 
 melted butter, rolled in flour, fried in pan with 
 bacon fat, served with Piquante sauce at one 
 end, Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley at the 
 other. 
 
 BROILED COD STEAK, COLBERT SAUCE 
 — The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, slowly 
 broiled till done; served with Colbert sauce 
 poured around and garnished with lemon and 
 parsley, also some fancy fried potatoes. 
 
 CURRIED COD STEAK WITH RISSOTO— 
 Good way to use the tail steaks: cut them half 
 an inch thick, fry them a golden brown with a 
 little minced onion, then place them in a sauce- 
 pan, flour and curry then added to the butter 
 and onions they were fried with, stirred, moist- 
 ened with equal parts of fish broth and cream, 
 boil up, skim, add a little anchovy essence, 
 strain the sauce over the steaks, put on range 
 and simmer for a few minutes; serve with the 
 sauce over and garnish with small molds of 
 rissoto. 
 
 CREAMED FRESH COD ON TOAST— 
 Shoulders and tails of cod are often bought up 
 cheap; boil them with an onion in salted water 
 and milk, when cool, remove all skin and bones, 
 keeping the flakes whole; cream sauce made 
 from the liquor they were boiled in, finished 
 with a few beaten eggs, the fish flakes then re- 
 heated but not boiled; served on toast sprinkled 
 with chopped parsley, and garnished with strips 
 of toast. 
 
SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH— The pre- 
 ceding recipe filled into scallop shells or oval 
 deep dishes, the top sprinkled with mixed grated 
 cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, then with 
 melted butter, baked a delicate brown and 
 served. 
 
 CRIMPED COD, SHRIMP SAUCE— To crimp 
 a cod it must be fresh caught, then instantly 
 killed, cut and notched with a knife, then 
 boiled in salt water and milk; served with 
 shrimp sauce poured around and garnished 
 with quartered hard boiled eggs, and small 
 potatoes sprinkled with Maitre d' Hotel butter. 
 
 COD STEAK SAUTE, CLUB STYLE— Steaks 
 cut from the middle of the fish, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled 
 in flour, fried a pale color in clear melted but- 
 ter, taken up and drained, placed on serving 
 dish, the outer edge of the top garnished with 
 fine parsley dust forming a horse shoe, lobster 
 coral placed down the centre, and trianon 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 BOILED CODFISH TONGUES, EGG SAUCE 
 — The tongues steeped for a whole day, then 
 blanched for ten minutes, taken up, masked 
 with egg sauce ; served on toast. 
 
 SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH TONGUES 
 — The steeped tongues blanched for ten minutes, 
 a thick Poulette sauce made from the blanching 
 stock, tongues then mixed into it, filled into 
 scallop shells or deep oval dishes, the top 
 strewn with mixed chopped parsley, grated 
 cheese and bread crumbs, browned and served. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF COD'S SOUNDS WITH 
 OYSTERS— The sounds blanched till nearly 
 done in salted milk and water, taken up and 
 drained, the oyster then blanched in the strained 
 stock ; cut the sounds after blanching to the 
 size of the oysters ; Poulette sauce made from 
 the blanching stock, to which is then added the 
 fish ; served on toast with a dusting of finely 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 STUFFED COD'S SOUNDS, OYSTER SAUCE 
 — The sounds blanched and allowed to cool, 
 then spread with an oyster forcemeat (see 
 oysters) ; when spread, coiled around and 
 pinned with a small skewer, rolled in flour, 
 then in melted butter and then in sifted bread- 
 crumbs, arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
 roasted and basted with butter till brown and 
 frothy ; served very hot with oyster sauce. 
 
 BOILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE— 
 The roes blanched and skinned, then simmered 
 till done in hot water with a dash of vinegar ; 
 served with a good butter sauce containing a 
 little anchovy essence and chopped parsley. 
 
 BROILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE— 
 The roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in 
 flour and fried in butter ; served with the sauce 
 of the preceding recipe with an addition of 
 chopped capers. 
 
 FRIED COD'S ROES, CAPER SAUCE— The 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 6l 
 
 roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in flour 
 and fried in butter ; served with a strained 
 piquante sauce well reduced with caper vinegar 
 and then add chopped capers. 
 
 SMOKED COD'S ROES— Are best either split 
 and broiled, or split and fried in butter ; served 
 with Maitre d'Hotel butter poured over, gar- 
 nished with lemon. 
 
 BOILED SALT COD, CREAM SAUCE— Bone- 
 less codfish steeped over night, boiled up, water 
 thrown away, again boiled up using cold water; 
 when done, taken up and drained; served with 
 cream sauce poured over, garnished with plain 
 boiled potatoes or with potatoes in their skins. 
 
 SALT COD SHREDDED AND CREAMED— 
 The fish prepared as in the preceding, then 
 pulled into shreds, mixed into a reduced cream 
 or cream sauce ; served on very hot toast, with 
 a dusting of chopped parsley. 
 
 CODFISH BALLS ; OR CODFISH CAKES— 
 The shredded codfish of the preceding and an 
 equal quantity of well mashed fresh boiled 
 potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- 
 meg, bound with a few yolks of eggs, mixed 
 well, made into small flattened cakes, rolled in 
 flour, fried brown in bacon fat ; served with a 
 slice of bacon, and a little cream sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 SCRAMBLED SALT COD ON TOAST— The 
 cod steeped, double blanched, shred, lightly 
 fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, equal 
 quantity of cream and beaten eggs then mixed 
 and stirred into the fish, scrambled ligthly; 
 served very hot on buttered toast. 
 
 SCALLOPED SALT COD, (COD AU GRATIN) 
 — The shredded and creamed cod filled into 
 scallop shells or deep oval dishes, sprinkled 
 with mixed grated cheese and sifted bread- 
 crumbs, browned in the oven or under a sala- 
 mander. 
 
 CODFISH CHOWDER— Can be made with 
 either fresh or salt fish ; if the salt soak it over 
 night, blanch it twice so as to extract the salt, 
 fry some small pieces of salt pork with an onion 
 minced, when of a light color, remove from the 
 fire, add the fish in flakes (freed from bone), 
 some raw peeled potatoes cut in squares, a sea- 
 soning of thyme, marjoram, pepper and a can 
 of tomatoes, fill the saucepan half full with fish 
 broth, put on the lid, place in oven and let it 
 simmer for an hour, take out, and work in with- 
 out breaking the potatoes an equal quantity of 
 thin cream sauce, add a little chopped parsley 
 and serve. (After the cream sauce is in it must 
 not be allowed to boil again or it will curdle). 
 
 COD AND OYSTER PIE, FRENCH STYLE— 
 Fresh boiled cod in flakes, scalded oysters 
 added, mixed with Aurora sauce, kept hot in 
 bain-marie, platter shaped pieces of puff paste 
 split, cod and oysters in sauce placed on the 
 lower crust, covered with the upper crust and 
 served very hot. 
 
62 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CODFISH TONGUE PATTIES— The tongues 
 steeped and blanched, then fried with butter, 
 drained, mixed with tomato sauce, filled into 
 hot patty shells and served. 
 
 SALT CODFISH HASH, NEW ENGLAND 
 STYLE — The shredded and creamed cod pre- 
 viously mentioned mixed with an equal quantity 
 of potatoes cut in thin strips like matches, 
 which are then boiled in cream; when done and 
 well reduced, mixed with the fish and served 
 very hot on toast. 
 
 COFFEE— The national breakfast beverage; to 
 be well made use a high grade of coffee, per- 
 fectly roasted, properly ground, twelve ounces 
 to the gallon of water for morning coffee, while 
 for after dinner coffee (which is generally served 
 in small cups) sixteen ounces to the gallon is 
 required; fresh boiling water the moment it 
 reaches the bubbling point, then only a little at 
 first to open the pores of the coffee and get it 
 ready to receive the remainder, which is to be 
 put on a little at a time until ALL the good and 
 NONE of the bitterness (tannin) is extracted, 
 for if it be too strong for some, it can easily be 
 diluted with boiling water when in the cups; 
 HOT cups first, then the sugar, then warmed 
 milk (not boiled), then the coffee, and if afforded, 
 put on the top a teaspoonful of whipped cream, 
 then you have a veritable nectar; the cream 
 cleaves to the roof of the mouth, and the coffee 
 slips down "like the oil down Aaron's beard". 
 
 COFFEE ICE CREAM— One quart of fresh made 
 and cooled coffee, with three pounds of pow- 
 dered and sifted sugar to each gallon of pure 
 cream, mixed, strained into the freezer and 
 frozen. 
 
 COGNAC pronounced KONEYAK— The term 
 used by the French for brandy. 
 
 COLBERT — Name given to a sauce and a soup. 
 Sauce made of a pint of good Espagnole, into 
 which is mixed a little meat glaze, lemon juice, 
 chopped parsley, and red pepper, made very hot 
 without being boiled, then very gradually beaten 
 in a half pint of clear melted butter. The soup 
 is made with a rich consomme and contains 
 shredded celery and lettuce blanched, diced 
 artichoke bottoms and small button onions. 
 
 COLBERT SOUP— Another way is to make a 
 rich cream soup ligh'ly thickened with a liaison 
 of egg yolks and cream, into which is then 
 worked a puree of blanched hearts of endive, a 
 fresh soft poached egg being served with each 
 portion. 
 
 COMPOTE— A term used in cookery to signify 
 something whole in a sauce. Hence a compote 
 of fruit is the fruit either whole, or split and the 
 stone or core removed, dropped into a thick 
 boiling syrup till cooked without breaking, 
 cooled, served with the syrup. A compote of 
 birds such as larks, reedbirds, ortolans, etc. are 
 the birds boned and stuffed, then lightly 
 roasted, then finished cooking in a bright sauce; 
 served with the sauce. 
 
 CONDE— pronounced KONDAY — Term applied 
 to a dish of stewed apricots served with rice; 
 also to a soup of puree of red haricot beans, 
 which dishes it is said the "Prince of Conde" 
 originated. 
 CONSOMME — Name applied in cookery to a 
 strong clarified soup, the different consommes 
 seen on bills of fare, called Consomme a la 
 this and a la that, simply terrorizes the guests 
 as well as the young cooks, and are merely sig- 
 nificant of the different garnitures that are 
 placed in the soup or plate before being served, 
 or else the flavor of the principal meat of which 
 the consomme was made. The ingredients for 
 a good general every day consomme is here 
 given. 
 CONSOMME INGREDIENTS- To make five 
 gallons (which quantity should serve ioo guests) 
 take fifteen pounds of LEAN beef trimmings, 
 six medium sized peeled carrots, same of 
 onions, twelve leeks, two heads of celery, a 
 bunch of parsley and a gallon of tomatoes all 
 chopped fine, mix with them after chopping, 
 one tablespoonful of whole peppers, twelve 
 cloves, six bay leaves, eighteen beaten whites 
 of eggs and their shells, a little salt, then add 
 stirring all the time, eight gallons of good stock 
 free from fat, COLD, or if hot, place a chunk 
 of ice in the saucepan before pouring in the hot 
 stock. Next, place saucepan on the range, add 
 three hens, (they can be used as salads after) 
 fetch to a slow simmer and reduce to about five 
 gallons in four hours, then strain through a 
 consomme towel (double cheese cloth). 
 In the following numerous consommes there 
 will be stated certain flavors such as "veal," 
 "chicken," "game," "mutton," "vegetable," 
 " fish," etc. When the recipe has this statement, 
 it means that the stock besides containing the in- 
 gredients mentioned for making consomme should 
 have an extra supply of the flavor called for, so 
 that it will be distinct from the ordinary flavor of 
 plain consomme. 
 
 CONSOMME AFRICAINE— Cooked artichoke 
 bottoms and egg plant cut in small squares, 
 kept hot in consomme, spoonful placed in each 
 plate at time of serving; a teaspoonful of curry 
 powder to each gallon of stock should be mixed 
 with the ingredients before boiling so as to give 
 the soup a light curry flavor. 
 CONSOMME ANDALOUSE— After the plain 
 consomme is strained and seasoned, some well 
 washed pearl tapioca is simmered in it till per- 
 fectly clear; small poached quenelles of force- 
 meat are kept hot in a little consomme, and one 
 or two added to each plate at time of serving; 
 the soup should have strong tomato flavor with 
 a suspicion of garlic. 
 CONSOMME ANGLAISE— Plain consomme 
 made with plenty of veal bones to give it a gela- 
 tinous taste; served with green peas and small 
 squares of white chicken meat in each plate. 
 CONSOMME BAGRATION— Make two sepa 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 63 
 
 rate consemm^s, one plain, the other with 
 plenty of fish heads, when both are strained 
 and seasoned, mix together, so that the fish 
 flavor slightly predominates; when serving, a 
 spoonful of the following mixture is placed in 
 each plate of soup; small fish quenelles, tails of 
 crayfish, flakes of small fish, and small cut vege- 
 tables of the season. 
 
 CONSOMME BEAUVILLIERS— Soup of vege- 
 table flavor, served with slices of stuffed cucum- 
 bers and small squares of toast. To stuff the 
 cucumbers, cut off the ends, remove the seedy 
 part with a column cutter, fill it with any force- 
 meat you have on hand, then simmer in milk 
 and water till done, remove and drain, and when 
 cold cut in thin slices, 
 
 CONSOMME BOURDALOUE— A chicken-fla\- 
 ored soup served with small squares of cooked 
 chicken breast, green peas, circular thin slices 
 of rice that has been mixed with egg yolks and 
 montpelier butter, then steamed and allowed to 
 become cold. 
 
 CONSOMME BARIGOULE— A game-flavored 
 soup seasoned with sherry wine, and served 
 with slices of stuffed olives together with slices 
 of button mushrooms. 
 
 CONSOMME BRUNOISE— A vegetable-flav- 
 ored soup served with green peas, very small 
 squares of carrot, turnip (white and yellow) 
 celery and artichokes. 
 
 CONSOMME BOURGEOISE— To the con- 
 somme ingredients is added a couple of ham 
 knuckles, thus giving the soup a slight ham 
 flavor. It is served with shred cooked cabbage, 
 leeks, very small balls of potatoes, and minute 
 squares of carrot, turnip and celery. 
 
 CONSOMME CAREME— A plain consomme 
 flavored with Madeira wine and served with 
 small sippets of toast, together with small cir- 
 cular slices of cooked carrot, white and yellow 
 turnip, finely shred lettuce, sorrel leaves and a 
 sprinkling of chopped chervil. 
 
 CONSOMME CELESTINE-A plain consomme 
 flavored with sherry wine, served with small 
 sandwiches of the following: Make six French 
 pancakes, spread three with forcemeat and 
 grated cheese, place the other three on top, 
 then stamp them with a medium-sized column 
 cutter. 
 
 CONSOMME CHATELAINE— A plain con- 
 somme served with green peas, shredded string 
 beans and squares of custard, made of one pint 
 of onion puree, 24 egg yolks, salt, red pepper, 
 mixed and steamed. 
 
 CONSOMME CHANTILLY— A bunch of fresh 
 mint should be boiled with the consomme in- 
 gredients, the soup to be served with blanched 
 rings of green onion tops, and small squares of 
 a stiff puree of green peas. 
 
 CONSOMME WITH CHOUX— A plain con- 
 somme served with green peas, slices of button 
 mushrooms and small balls of choux paste made 
 like stoned olives, the centre filled with force- 
 
 meat and baked ten minutes. 
 
 CONSOMME CHIFFONADE — A vegetable 
 flavored soup served with shredded cabbage 
 and lettuce, thin strips of carrot and turnip, 
 together with green peas. 
 
 CONSOMME CLAREMONT — A plain con- 
 somme served with small rings of onions that 
 have been dipped in milk, then flour, then fried 
 crisp ; together with Royal custards cut in 
 squares or circles, made of ten yolks of eggs, 
 two whole eggs, and half pint of cold consomme; 
 mixed together, not beaten; slowly steamed till 
 set. 
 
 CONSOMME COLBERT — A plain consomme 
 served with a freshly poached egg, and a spoon- 
 ful of small cut vegetables of the season. 
 
 CONSOMME WITH CELERY — Plenty of 
 celery trimmings should be boiled with the con- 
 somme ingredients, the soup served with a 
 spoonful of shredded cooked celery, thin strips 
 of tongue, mushrooms and a little dry boiled 
 rice. 
 
 CONSOMME CUSSY— With the consomme" in- 
 gredients should be boiled plenty of game trim- 
 mings to give the soup a game flavor. It is 
 served with small blanched and peeled chest- 
 nuts, a small timbale of game forcemeat mixed 
 with mushrooms, finished with a little Madeira 
 wine. 
 
 CONSOMME DUCHESSE- Strain off a plain 
 consomme, then thicken it with corn-starch 
 mixed with water, simmer it till it is perfectly 
 clear and gelatinous; it is then served with 
 strips of white chicken meat ; the soup to be of 
 strong chicken flavor. 
 
 CONSOMME WITH DARIOLES— A consomme 
 of strong chicken flavor served with quarters of 
 darioles made of a pound of lean grated ham, 
 half a cupful of Soubise puree, half a cupful 
 of tomato puree, two whole eggs, eight yolks 
 of eggs, a wine glass of Madeira wine, same of 
 cold consomme, with a dash of red pepper; 
 make the whole into a paste, then rub it through 
 a fine sieve, fill dariole molds, steam till set, 
 cut in quarters when cold, and serve with the 
 soup together with green peas. 
 
 CONSOMME DESCLIGNAC— A plain con- 
 somme flavored with sherry wine, served with 
 circular slices of Royal custards. 
 
 CONSOMME DOUGLAS— A plain consomme 
 served with shreds of cooked celery, red tongue, 
 mushrooms and a little dry boiled rice. 
 
 CONSOMME DUBORG— A plain consomme 
 served with dry boiled rice and some fancy 
 shapes of Royal custards. 
 
 CONSOMME D'ORSAY — A strong chicken 
 flavored consomme served with an egg poached 
 in consomme, together with very small cut 
 vegetables of the season. 
 
 CONSOMME DAUMONT— A sherry wine-flav- 
 ored consomme served with small pieces of 
 cooked chicken breast, sweetbread, red tongue 
 and tops of button mushrooms. 
 
6 4 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CONSOMME EPICURE— A strong consomme 
 of game-flavor, seasoned with Madeira wine, 
 and served with a freshly poached egg in each 
 plate. 
 
 CONSOMME OF GAME— The preceding, but 
 in place of the egg, it is served with quenelles 
 or raviolis made of uncooked partridge one part, 
 cooked calf's brains one part, Parmesan cheese 
 half part, yolks of eggs to bind, pounded, 
 rubbed through a fine sieve, molded into 
 quenelles and poached. 
 
 CONSOMME GAMBETTA— A chicken-flavored 
 consomme served with a poached yolk of egg, 
 and three quenelles of veal, one of its natural 
 color, the others being colored red and green 
 respectively. 
 
 CONSOMME INDIENNE— Same as "consomme 
 Africaine" adding, however, strips of cooked 
 chicken breast and a little dry boiled rice. 
 
 CONSOMME IMPERATRICE-A strong chicken 
 flavored consomme served with a freshly poached 
 egg in each plate. 
 
 CONSOMME ITALIENNE— A plain consomme 
 slightly flavored with tomatoes and a suspicion 
 of garlic; served with green peas and small 
 pieces of well washed macaroni. 
 
 CONSOMME IMPERIAL— A chicken flavored 
 consomme served with green; peas, asparagus 
 points and small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. 
 
 CONSOMME JULIENNE— A vegetable flavored 
 consomme served with fine shreds of green 
 stringless beans, carrot, turnip, cabbage, celery, 
 leeks, spring onions, and green peas, the vege- 
 tables should be sauteed in butter first, before 
 simmering them in the consomme. 
 
 CONSOMME JOINVILLE— A strong consomme 
 well flavored with fish heads, pounded lobster 
 heads and shells; when strained off, seasoned 
 with white wine, served with small pieces of 
 lobster and croutons souffles. 
 
 CONSOMME KURSEL— A vegetable flavored 
 consomme served with a spoonful of cooked 
 green peas, asparagus tips, shred lettuce, cut 
 stringless beans, flageolets and green onions. 
 
 CONSOMME MARIE STUART— A mutton flav- 
 ored consomme served with a spoonful of well 
 washed, cooked pearl barley, and small cut 
 vegetables of the season. 
 
 CONSOMME MACEDOINE— A chicken flav- 
 ored consomme served with a mixture of vari- 
 colored vegetables cut in very small squares, or 
 else use the canned macedoines. 
 
 CONSOMME MAGENTA— A plain consomme 
 slightly colored with tomato juice, to which is 
 added a macedoine of vegetables and some 
 chopped parsley and celery leaves. 
 
 CONSOMME MASSENA— Made with plenty of 
 hare or jack rabbit trimmings mixed with the 
 consomme ingredients, when strained off, flav- 
 ored with sherry wine; served with small que- 
 nelles of rabbit. 
 
 CONSOMME WITH MACARONI— A roast poul- 
 try stock should be used to make the consomme; 
 when strained off and seasoned, served with 
 macaroni that has been boiled, washed, drained, 
 and then cut into quarter-inch pieces. 
 CONSOMME MILANAISE— The preceding 
 made consomme served with the addition to the 
 macaroni, one inch lengths of boiled smoked 
 tongue; a butter chip full of Parmesan cheese 
 should be served separately. 
 CONSOMME MONTE CARLO— A rich chicken 
 flavored consomme served with slices of cooked 
 vegetables stamped out with cutters represent- 
 ing clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds; also 
 circular slices of chicken forcemeat that is dotted 
 with truffles to represent dominoes; also circu- 
 lar slices of cooked beetroot, carrot and turnip 
 representing poker chips. 
 CONSOMME MEFICIS— A rich chicken flavored 
 consomme lightly thickened with corn starch; 
 served with a freshly poached egg in each plate, 
 together with a canape or small patty of chicken 
 forcemeat served separately. 
 CONSOMME MONTMORENCY— A rich flav- 
 ored chicken consomme served with noodles, 
 small balls of chicken forcemeat, and some let- 
 tuce leaves spread with chicken forcemeat rolled 
 up like cigarettes and braised. 
 CONSOMME NAPOLITAINE— A game flavored 
 consomme to which is added Madeira wine, 
 served with small cut and washed macaroni, 
 cooked celery cut in small squares, and small 
 croutons of toast. 
 CONSOMME WITH NOODLES— A rich chick- 
 en flavored consomme served with finely shred 
 noodles. 
 CONSOMME NIVERNAISE — A plain con- 
 somme flavored with sherry wine; served with 
 small quenelles of veal, together with fancy 
 Italian paste, and a macedoine of vegetables. 
 CONSOMME NAUDIER -A rich chicken fla- 
 vored consomme served with small quenelles of 
 chicken forcemeat of different colors; to make 
 which, take some chicken forcemeat and divide 
 it into four parts; into the first work some finely 
 chopped truffle peelings; the second finely 
 minced red tongue; the third, chopped parsley; 
 the fourth, minced yolks of hard boiled eggs. 
 CONSOMME NILSSON— A rich chicken fla- 
 vored consomme served with small quenelles 
 of chicken forcemeat in three colors shape of a 
 pencil, an inch long; to make which, divide the 
 forcemeat into three parts, leave one plain, 
 color the others red and green respectively. 
 CONSOMME ORGE— A plain consomme served 
 with pearl barley, breast of cooked chicken cut 
 in squares, carrots and turnips cut into small 
 squares. 
 CONSOMME WITH PEAS— A vegetable fla- 
 vored consomme served with green peas, to- 
 gether with black peas scooped out of truffles. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 65 
 
 CONSOMME POISSON — A plain consomme 
 slightly flavored with fish stock, seasoned with 
 sherry wine; served with green peas, dry boiled 
 rice and small quenelles of lobster. 
 
 CONSOMME PRINTANIERE — A vegetable 
 flavored consomme served with plenty of green 
 peas, asparagus tips, and other spring vegeta- 
 bles cut small. 
 
 CONSOMME PRINTANIERE ROYAL— Same 
 as the preceding, with the addition of Royal 
 custards, into which has been steamed a finely 
 cut macedoine of vegetables. 
 
 CONSOMME PAYSANNE— A vegetable flavored 
 consomme served with a jardiniere of vege- 
 tables, shred cabbage and lettuce. 
 
 CONSOMME PRINCESSE— A rich chicken fla- 
 vored consomme served with green peas, aspar" 
 agus tips, pearl barley, diced chicken breast- 
 and forcemeat quenelles. 
 
 CONSOMME PATTI— A plain consomme served 
 with rice, green peas, breast of chicken and 
 truffles cut in small squares, together with 
 some Parmesan cheese served separately. 
 
 CONSOMME PATE D'lTALIE— A chicken fla 
 vored consomme" served with fancy Italian 
 paste. 
 
 CONSOMME PRINCE DE GALLES--A game 
 flavored consomme, served with asparagus tips. 
 Royal custards, breast of chicken and chicken 
 forcemeat, all cut in diamond shapes. 
 
 CONSOMME PALESTINE— A chicken flavored 
 consomme served with dry boiled rice, and thin 
 slices of stewed Jerusalem artichokes. 
 
 CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES, ASPAR. 
 AGUS TIPS, TURNIPS, RICE, CORN, 
 PEAS, OR ANY OTHER SIMPLE THING, 
 AS OFTEN SEEN ON BILLS OF FARE- 
 IS SIMPLY A PLAIN CONSOMME SERVED 
 WITH THE ARTICLE NAMED. 
 
 CONSOMME ROY ALE— A plain consomme 
 served with circular slices of Royal custards, 
 and flavored with sherry wine. 
 
 CONSOMME RACHAEL— A game flavored con- 
 somme seasoned with Madeira wine, and served 
 with small quenelles of game together with 
 shreds of cooked red tongue and truffles. 
 
 CONSOMME RENAISSANCE— A game flavored 
 consomme seasoned with Malaga wine; served 
 with sliced mushrooms, dry boiled rice, green 
 peas and croutons. 
 
 CONSOMME RIVOLI— A plain consomme but 
 highly spiced; served with noodles, also Parme- 
 san cheese served separately. 
 
 CONSOMME SEMOULE— A plain consomme, 
 when strained off has tapioca or semolina washed, 
 then simmered till same is clear in the soup. 
 CONSOMME SAGOU— Same as the preceding, 
 
 but using sago instead of tapioca. 
 CONSOMME DE STAEL— A chicken flavored 
 consomme served with lozenge shaped pieces of 
 fried bread, and small quenelles of chicken 
 forcemeat. 
 
 CONSOMME SEVEIGNE— A chicken flavored 
 consomme" served with asparagus tips, cut string- 
 less beans, green peas, and Royal custards 
 mixed with forcemeat. 
 CONSOMME SOLFERINO— A strong beef fla- 
 vored consomme; served with small quenelles of 
 farina. Plenty of roast beef bones should be 
 boiled in the stock. 
 
 CONSOMME SUEDOISE— A rich chicken fla- 
 vored consomme served with a small croustade 
 in each plate filled with a mixture as follows: 
 run a couple of carrots, turnips and a small cab- 
 bage through a mincing machine, braise them 
 till done, then mix with them a can each of 
 flageolet beans and green peas, also a little 
 Parmesan cheese; season to taste, 
 
 CONSOMME TROIS RACINES— A mutton fla- 
 vored consomme served with cubes of braised 
 turnip, carrot and celery, 
 
 CONSOMME TALMA— A chicken flavored con- 
 somme served with grains of boiled rice, and 
 shapes of Royal custards made of eggs and 
 almond milk. 
 
 CONSOMME ST. X AVIER— A vegetable flavored 
 consomme served with a Printaniere of vege- 
 tables, shred cabbage and the following: Cook 
 together four ounces of butter, six ounces of 
 flour, two ounces of grated cheese, one cup of 
 cream; season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg; 
 remove from the fire when done, and beat into 
 it two whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, some 
 chopped parsley; then rub it through a colan- 
 der into the simmering soup. 
 
 CONSOMME VERMICELLI— Is simply a rich 
 veal flavored consomme served with vermicelli 
 that has been boiled, and then well washed and 
 drained. 
 
 CONSOMME VOLAILLE— Is simply a rich 
 chicken flavored consomme served with strips of 
 chicken meat. 
 
 COQ — The French word for "cock", hence they 
 have "coqde Bruyere" which in English means 
 black cock or heath fowl, " coq d'Inde " or 
 turkey cock. 
 
 COQUILLE — Is the French word for shell, and 
 we have many dishes served "en coquille" or 
 in shell, generally in a scallop shell, either nat- 
 ural, or of metal or earthernware to imitate it. 
 
 CORBEILLE— Is the French word for basket 
 that is used to hold a display of crystallized 
 fruits or flowers, etc , etc. 
 
 CORDIALS — Or liqueurs as the French call them, 
 enter into many ices and drinks that are served 
 at banquets, of which the following is a list of 
 those most used. "Absinthe, Alkermes, Bene- 
 dictine, Chartreuse, Curacoa, Kummel, Shrub, 
 Kirsch or Kirschenwasser, Maraschino, Nectar, 
 Negus, Noyeau, Punch, Ratafia and Vermouth. 
 
 CORIANDER — Name of an aromatic seed resem- 
 bling whole peppers in size and shape, used by 
 confectioners as a flavoring, also by the cook 
 for seasoning green turtle soup. 
 
66 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CORN — A most succulent and nutritious vege- 
 table. In its green state it is generally boiled 
 for about twenty minutes in boiling water con- 
 taining milk and salt, and is served on the cob. 
 The dried corn or maize, (MAIS in French,) is 
 ground coarse or fine for making the following 
 dishes. 
 
 CORN MEAL MUSH— One gallon of water, one 
 ounce each of salt and butter. The seasoned 
 water is brought to the boil, into which is then 
 strewn and beaten one and a quarter pounds of 
 corn meal; when boiled up again, it should be 
 removed to the back of the range where it must 
 simmer for three hours with a cover on; served 
 with cream or milk and sugar. 
 
 FRIED CORN MUSH— A popular breakfast 
 dish. The mush of the preceding when cooked 
 is poured into a buttered pan, smoothed, the top 
 then brushed with melted butter to prevent a 
 hard skin forming, allowed to become cold, cut in 
 blocks or slices, fried plain in butter, or breaded 
 and fried; served with maple syrup. 
 
 CORN BATTER CAKES— For recipe see head- 
 ing of "Batters." 
 
 CORN GEMS OR MUFFINS— One and a half 
 pounds of corn meal, three quarters of a pound 
 of sifted wheat flour, three teaspoonfuls of bak- 
 ing powder, half a cup of granulated sugar, one 
 teaspoonful salt, all mixed together dry; one 
 and a half pints each of water and milk, six 
 beaten eggs, half a cupful of melted butter mixed 
 together, the dry and wet mixtures then thor- 
 oughly incorporated and poured into hot greased 
 patty shells or muffin rings and baked; light and 
 delicious. 
 
 CORN BREAD, JOHNNY CAKE OR CORN 
 DODGER — The preceding mixture poured into 
 greased hot shallow baking pans and baked well 
 done with crisp corners. 
 
 CORN MEAL GRUEL— Well boiled corn meal 
 mush two-thirds, slightly sweetened boiling milk 
 one-third, mixed, then forced through a fine 
 sieve or colander. 
 
 CORN WAFFLES— The mixture above given 
 for "Corn Muffins," poured into hot waffle 
 irons, baked and served dusted with powdered 
 sugar. 
 
 CORN BLANC-MANGE— Equal quantities of 
 white corn meal and corn starch mixed dry, 
 beaten into boiling milk sweetened to taste, 
 then allowed to simmer for an hour, removed, 
 flavored, poured into decorated molds, turned 
 out when set and cold; served with whipped 
 cream, fruit syrups or slewed fruits. 
 
 CORN MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING— Thick 
 well boiled corn meal mush allowed to partly 
 cool, into which is then mixed seedless raisins, 
 grated lemon rind, ginger, butter.a little molasses 
 beaten with a very little baking soda, beaten 
 eggs, then baked and served with a fruit syrup 
 sauce. 
 
 POLENTA — The Italian name for our corn meal 
 
 mush; they also make a polenta from chestnut 
 flour. 
 HULLED CORN— Dried white corn soaked in 
 weak lye for two days is then well washed, 
 boiled tender and served plain with milk. In 
 the larger cities there are people who prepare 
 it and sell it ready for boiling. 
 
 TORTILLAS, A CORN CAKE MADE BY THE 
 MEXICANS— The tortilla is typical of old Mex- 
 ico, and is encountered wherever the influence 
 of the cactus republic has reached. It was 
 found as the main article of food among the 
 ancient Aztecs at the time of the Spanish con- 
 quests, more than three and a half centuries ago; 
 and the little hand ground and palm-fashioned 
 corn cake has well held its own down through 
 the ages, being today as popular and in as gen- 
 eral use as ever. Shelled corn intended for this 
 use is first soaked over night in lime water until 
 the outer husk of the kernels is loose enough to 
 be removed by being rolled between the hands, 
 and is then ready for grinding. This is done 
 by the Mexican women of the lower classes, 
 who often work in the doorways of their homes, 
 bending over the historic stone hand mill, called 
 in Mexico a MAT ATE. The mill is simply a 
 rough slab of stone supported by four stocky 
 legs and is made of bolcanic tufa, the coarse 
 grain of which is best adapted for the grinding 
 of the corn, beans, chilli seeds, cheese or what- 
 ever it maybe desired to finely pulverize. The 
 stone mill is an indispensable item in the culin- 
 ary outfit of the tropical home. The accompany- 
 ing handpiece, looking like a rude rolling pin, is 
 also of stone, and is briskly worked up and down 
 the incline of the rude stone table by the woman 
 as she bends to her work with a steady swing of 
 body, shoulders and arms. It is claimed that 
 the flour for the tortillas can be perfectly 
 milled only by their ancient methods, and when 
 one sees the result of the grinding he is ready 
 to admit that possibly they are right. As the 
 moist windrows of the meal roll off the grinding 
 board it is caught in a basin and is then ready 
 for being formed into cakes for baking. When 
 ready to bake a woman takes a small lump of 
 the heavy mixture and lays it in the palm of her 
 hand; then with the other palm, she rolls it into 
 a ball and begins to quickly pat it in to the de- 
 sired thinness, deftly spreading the fingers to 
 allow it to enlarge its size, and changing it from 
 hand to hand until it is only an eighth of an inch 
 in thickness and generally about six inches in 
 diameter, although sometimes as large as a din- 
 ner plate. The plastic cakes are tossed, one 
 after another, as completed, upon the stove 
 called a Brasero, and as fast as delicately 
 browned and turned they are placed in a steam- 
 ing heap and enveloped in a cloth to keep them 
 warm. 
 
 CORN FRITTERS — Canned corn, or cooked 
 corn cut off the cob, pounded, mixed with a little 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 67 
 
 flour, beaten eggs, salt, pepper and a little but- 
 ter, dropped by spoonfuls into hot fat and fried 
 brown; served as a garniture to chicken, Mary- 
 land style, or as a vegetable. 
 
 GRATED CORN PUDDING— Two quarts of 
 cooked corn grated off the cob, eight yolks of 
 eggs, cup of melted butter, pint of milk, salt, 
 pepper and nutmeg, mixed, poured into but- 
 tered baking pans, baked; served with a sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 GREEN CORN SAUTE— Boiled corn cut from 
 the cob, melted butter in saute pan, corn tossed 
 and heated thoroughly in it, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper and nutmeg; served very hot; after 
 sauteeing, it may also be mixed with a cream 
 or Bechamel sauce, and served as a vegetable. 
 
 GREEN CORN BATTER CAKES— Two quarts 
 of cooked corn grated from the cob, twelve 
 ounces of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, pint and 
 a half of milk, four beaten eggs, thoroughly 
 mixed, baked on a griddle; served with butter 
 and sugar, or syrup. 
 
 CORN SOUP — Fresh green corn partly grated 
 off the cob and placed aside; the rest on the cob 
 boiled in chicken broth till tender, then strain 
 it off on to the grated pulp, boil up, season with 
 buttei, salt, nutmeg and a little sugar, then pass 
 it through a fine sieve into an equal quantity of 
 VeUoute" sauce. Another way is to take canned 
 corn, pound it, rub it through a sieve, boil it 
 with milk, then mix it with Veloute sauce. 
 
 CORN AND TOMATO SOUP— Canned, or corn 
 cut from the cob, passed through a mincing 
 machine, then rubbed through a fine sieve, the 
 puree thus obtained boiled in a Veloute sauce, 
 then combined with an equal quantity of tomato 
 puree. 
 
 ROAST CORN IN EAR— Young green corn with 
 the thick outer husks removed, the inner leaves 
 after removing the silk, tied at the top, slowly 
 roasted till done; served with the green cover- 
 ing; cut top and bottom so as be removed easily. 
 
 POP CORN — A variety of corn that is held in a 
 wire basket over heat enough to burst or pop it; 
 it can then be cemented together into balls with 
 butter and syrup, etc. 
 
 ROAST GREEN CORN— Young green corn 
 stripped and the silk removed, arranged in a 
 buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt, white 
 pepper and melted butter, slowly baked, basted 
 and turned till done. 
 
 CORN STARCH— A preparation of the inner 
 part of corn used in making blanc-manges, 
 thickening soups, sauces, etc. 
 
 STEWED CORN, CREOLE STYLE— Canned 
 corn, or corn cooked and cut from the cob, 
 mixed with an equal quantity of peeled and 
 cooked tomatoes, a grating of onion and garlic, 
 salt, pepper and butter, boiled down thick; 
 served as a vegetable. 
 
 CORN SALAD — Called " Doucette " by the 
 French, is a herb used in mixing salads; some- 
 
 times made into a salad by itself; is good to 
 mix with lettuce salad, giving it a slightly bitter 
 taste; it resembles somewhat a cabbage lettuce 
 in appearance and growth. 
 
 COTELETTES— The French word for our cut- 
 lets, but is generally applied to rib chops of 
 mutton, lamb and veal. 
 
 COURTBOUILLON— Is the name of a highly 
 seasoned broth used to boil fresh water fish, to 
 impart a better flavor to them, and is made 
 from carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, 
 thyme, garlic, sliced lemon, chervil, salt and 
 pepper, all tied in a muslin bag and boiled with 
 a few fish heads in water containing white or 
 red wine or vinegar; after the seasoning is 
 extracted, it is strained and put away for use as 
 required; it also enters into a few soups, sauces 
 and garnitures, such as Havraise, Holstein, 
 Normande and Venitienne sauces, Chambord 
 and Genevoise garnitures, Bouillabaisse, Eel, 
 Lobster and other fish soups and bisques. 
 
 CRABS — Are a delectable shellfish. In this country 
 we use for food two kinds, the hard shell blue 
 crab which periodically sheds its shell, thus giv- 
 ing us the "soft shell crab" and the oyster crab. 
 The male crab has a long white, narrow tail 
 turned round its under part, the female has a 
 broad brownish, feathery tail. The centre of 
 the body is filled with its liver, which is a soft 
 yellow substance. The meat used is obtained 
 from the inner top of the back, and the claws. 
 Crab meat is tasty but comparatively poor in 
 nutriment and very hard to digest. There is one 
 firm in this country " McMenamin of Hamp- 
 ton, Virginia," who for years past have made 
 a specialty of putting up fresh cooked crab meat 
 in cans, supplying with each can a sufficient 
 number of shells to hold the amount of meat. 
 They are obtainable of leading grocers every- 
 where, and from personal experience of their 
 use, the author can say that he has found their 
 crab meat give perfect satisfaction to hotel 
 patrons. 
 
 CRAB CAKES — Cooked crab meat four parts, 
 fresh bread crumbs one part, mixed and sea- 
 soned with salt, nutmeg, red pepper, and 
 chopped parsley, and bound with raw egg yolks; 
 made into cakes like "codfish cakes" then 
 breaded and fried; served with cream or Hol- 
 landaise sauces. 
 
 CRAB TOAST— Cooked crab meat sauteed with 
 butter, seasoned with salt, nutmeg and red 
 pepper; served piled high on slices of hot but- 
 tered toast. 
 
 BUTTERED CRAB — Cooked crab meat cut 
 small, two parts; fresh bread crumbs, one part; 
 mixed and seasoned with a little chopped 
 parsley, salt, red pepper, nutmeg, caper vinegar 
 and melted butter, then packed into crab shells, 
 sprinkled with bread crumbs, then melted but- 
 ter, browned in hot oven and served. 
 
68 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 CRAB SAUSAGES — Cooked crab meat seasoned 
 with chervil, a suspicion of garlic, salt, red 
 pepper and minced chives, the whole pounded, 
 rubbed through a sieve, bound with raw yolks 
 of eggs, formed into shapes of sausages, rolled 
 in flour, fried a delicate brown with butter; 
 served with tartar sauce. 
 
 CRAB FRITTERS — Cooked crab meat finely 
 minced, mixed with a little minced fried onion, 
 a suspicion of garlic, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce and 
 chopped parsley, all boiled down in a Veloute 
 sauce till thick; then is worked in a few beaten 
 egg yolks, removed and poured into a buttered 
 pan and allowed to become cold; then cut in 
 finger slices, dipped into a thin frying batter, 
 fried; served with tartar sauce. 
 
 CRAB CANAPES— Minced cooked crab meat 
 mixed with a little finely minced fried shallots, 
 seasoned with salt, red pepper and grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, boiled down thick with a rich 
 Veloute sauce, allowed to cool, then spread on 
 fancy shapes of toast, the meat then strewn with 
 grated cheese, browned off in hot oven and 
 served. 
 
 CRAB OMELET— The preceding mixture while 
 still hot enclosed in centre of omelet; served 
 with Veloute sauce poured around. 
 
 CRAB SALAD — Cooked crab meat cut fine, sea- 
 soned with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and red 
 pepper mixed with a little finely shred and 
 minced white cabbage; served on a leaf of 
 lettuce, garnished with shred lettuce, stuffed 
 olives, and slices of hard boiled eggs. 
 
 CRAB STEW — Cooked crab meat seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg, made hot in a rich 
 Bechamel sauce; served in cases or croustades, 
 the top sprinkled with parsley dust. 
 
 CRAB, QUEEN STYLE— Cold cooked crab 
 meat in shreds three parts, finely shred hearts 
 of celery one part, mixed, seasoned with tarra- 
 gon vinegar, olive oil, salt and red pepper, filled 
 into crab shells, masked with mayonnaise, dec- 
 orated with small shapes of hard boiled eggs, 
 lobster coral and sliced stuffed olives, (called 
 CRAB A LA REINE). 
 
 EMINCE OF CRAB — Shredded cooked crab 
 meat seasoned with salt, red pepper, dash of 
 Worcestershire sauce and caper vinegar, mixed 
 with a little Parmesan cheese, tossed and 
 thoroughly heated in a sautoir with butter; 
 served on hot buttered toast, sprinkled with 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 DEVILED CRABS— Cooked crab meat mixed 
 with minced whites of hard boiled eggs and the 
 yolks rubbed through a sieve, seasoned with 
 salt, red pepper, dry mustard, Worcestershire 
 sauce and tarragon vinegar; made hot with a 
 good allowance of melted butter, filled into 
 shells, smoothed, strewn with sifted bread 
 crumbs, browned off in the oven and served very 
 
 hot. Some cooks have a habit of mixing the 
 crab meat with a highly seasoned sauce instead 
 of the directions just given, with the result that 
 if not all served at the one meal, they go flat 
 when cold, and look unsightly and unservice- 
 able when reheated. 
 
 SCALLOPED CRABS— The deviled crab mix- 
 ture of the preceding moistened with Veloute 
 sauce, filled into crab or scallop shells, or small 
 oval deep dishes, strewn with grated cheese 
 and melted butter, browned in hot oven and 
 served. 
 
 BAKED CRABS— Minced shallots, thinly sliced 
 mushrooms lightly fried together with butter, 
 into which is then mixed cooked crab meat, 
 truffle trimmings, chopped parsley, salt, red 
 pepper and a little Veloute sauce; filled into 
 large crab shells, strewn with fresh sifted bread 
 crumbs, browned in oven, served hot. 
 
 CRABS, CREOLE STYLE— Live hard shell 
 crabs, fish-kettle with separate perforated 
 bottom, under which is poured white wine vine- 
 gar seasoned with salt and red pepper; live 
 crabs placed on the false bottom, lid of kettle 
 placed on tightly, kettle put over a good fire; 
 when crabs are of a bright red color, taken up 
 and served at once with the under shell separated. 
 
 CROUSTADE OF CRABS— Cooked crab meat 
 sauteed with minced shallots in butter, seasoned 
 with salt, red pepper and caper vinegar, moist- 
 ened and heated with sauce Normande, filled 
 into bread or paste croustades; served very hot. 
 
 CRAB FORCEMEAT— Cooked crab meat finely 
 minced with chervil, chives and a small clove 
 of garlic, seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
 caper vinegar, pounded, then rubbed through a 
 fine sieve, bound with raw egg yolks. Set aside 
 for use. 
 
 CRAB CROQUETTES— Crab forcemeat made 
 into shapes, breaded, fried; served with sauce 
 Joinville. 
 
 CRAB KROMESKIES— Cold crab forcemeat 
 rolled into size and shape of a finger, bound 
 with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned 
 with a toothpick, dipped into a plain batter, 
 fried, toothpick removed, served with tartar 
 sauce. 
 
 STUFFED CRAB— Cooked crab meat seasoned 
 with tarragon vinegar, curry powder, salt and 
 red pepper, slightly moistened with Veloute 
 sauce, filled into shells, strewn with sifted 
 bread crumbs, baked; served very hot. 
 
 TOMATOES STUFFED WITH CRAB— Raw 
 peeled tomatoes of an even size, hollowed out, 
 seeds removed, the outside then covered with 
 crab forcemeat, and the inside filled with dev- 
 illed crab mixture, smoothed off, rolled in sifted 
 bread crumbs, baked and basted with butter; 
 served very hot. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 69 
 
 CRAB SAUCE— Cooked crab meat minced with 
 a few mushrooms, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, 
 red pepper and lemon juice, simmered in 
 Bechamel sauce for a few minutes; chopped 
 parsley may be added if desired. 
 
 CRAB GUMBO (soup)— Very small squares of 
 raw lean ham fried a delicate brown with 
 minced onion or shallots and crab meat, flour 
 added to form a roux, moistened with equal 
 parts of courtbouillon and chicken broth, 
 brought to the boil, skimmed; shred green pep- 
 pers, sliced okras and peeled and sliced toma- 
 toes then added, simmered for an hour, sea- 
 soned with salt, red pepper, herbs and white 
 wine, a spoonful of dry boiled rice placed in 
 each plate at time of serving. 
 
 BISQUE OF CRABS— Live crabs blanched as 
 for "Creole style," meat removed and lightly 
 fried with minced shallots and a clove of garlic 
 in butter, moistened with fish broth and white 
 wine, brought to the boil, shells then added 
 with some well washed rice; when rice is 
 cooked, little roux added, the whole then rubbed 
 through a tamis or puree seive, brought to the boil 
 again, skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper 
 and sherry wine; served with small croutons. 
 
 BISQUE OF CRABS, CREOLE STYLE— Boil 
 half a pound of rice to each gallon of soup re- 
 quired, when done add its equal weight of 
 cooked crab meat, pound to a paste, adding 
 half a cupful of melted butter and a flavor of 
 nutmeg, then rub it through a puree sieve; make 
 the soup stock of thin Veloute sauce, add the rice 
 and crab puree, bring to a simmer, then add 
 sliced okras, minced red and green peppers, 
 sliced peeled tomatoes, season with thyme, 
 marjoram, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer 
 slowly for one hour and serve. 
 
 BOILED SOFT SHELL CRABS— Live crabs 
 with small claws and sand pouch removed, 
 dropped into boiling salted water and simmered 
 for ten minutes; served with Veloute or parsley 
 sauces. 
 
 SOFT SHELL CRABS FRIED— Live crabs 
 with sand pouch removed, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in milk, rolled in flour, 
 then in beaten eggs and again bread crumbs, 
 fried in deep fat or slowly in butter; served 
 with tartar sauce, or with mayonnaise, garn- 
 ished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 SOFT SHELL CRABS BROILED— Prepared 
 and breaded as in the preceding, placed between 
 a double hinged wire broiler, broiled and basted 
 with butter; served with tartar sauce, garn- 
 ished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 CURRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS— Take the 
 very small ones and boil them a few minutes, 
 then saute" them with minced onion in butter, 
 take up, and put into curry sauce, simmer a 
 few minutes; served with a border of boiled 
 rice in grains. 
 
 SOFT SHELL CRABS STEAMED— Live crabs 
 with the small claws and sand pouch removed, 
 placed on false bottom of fish kettle containing 
 vinegar and water underneath; steamed ten 
 minutes, served with Bechamel sauce. 
 OYSTER CRABS, SAUCE POULETTE— Well 
 washed oyster crabs sauteed with butter, sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, moistened with 
 Hollandaise sauce sharp with lemon juice, add 
 a little chopped parsley; take a small oval plat- 
 ter, pipe a border of potato croquette mixture 
 around the edge, brush it with butter and brown 
 it off in the oven or under a salamander; serve 
 the oyster crabs in the center. 
 
 OYSTER CRABS FRIED— Oyster crabs well 
 washed and drained, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, tossed in flour, thrown into cold milk, 
 then into sifted bread crumbs, fried in hot deep 
 grease like whitebait, taken up, drained, 
 sprinkled with salt; served in cases or crous- 
 tades. 
 
 OYSTER CRAB PATTIES— Make the "oyster 
 crabs, sauce Poulette" above, fill small puff 
 paste patty shells with the mixture; serve with 
 some Poulette sauce around the base. 
 
 OYSTER CRABS, NEWBURG— Well washed 
 and drained oyster crabs sauteed in butter for 
 five minutes with some truffle trimmings, then 
 is added some Madeira wine, reduce to one 
 half, then work in a liaison of egg yolks and 
 cream, shuffle about till thick and creamy; serve 
 either in a tureen or chafing dish. 
 
 CRAB APPLES— A small sour apple used as a 
 preserve, crystalized, or in jams or jellies, also 
 a medicinal cider. 
 
 CRANBERRIES— A small red fruit that when 
 made into a sauce or jelly is relished by the 
 majority as an accompaniment to roast turkey, 
 etc. 
 
 CRANBERRY PIE— Cranberries washed, then 
 put to boil with sugar and a very little water; 
 when done, allowed to become cold; pie plates 
 lined with short paste, spread with the cran- 
 berries, strips of paste placed over the top, the 
 paste brushed with egg wash, then baked. 
 
 CRANBERRY JAM— or sauce— is the preceding 
 mixture boiled down with more sugar until 
 thick enough to coat a spoon. 
 
 CRANBERRY JELLY- -Well washed cranber- 
 ries: to each gallon, half a gallon of water, put 
 to boil and boiled for ten minutes, they are then 
 mashed and squeezed through a flannel jelly 
 bag, the juice then returned to the fire with four 
 pounds of sugar to each original gallon of cran- 
 berries, this is then rapidly boiled from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, then poured into molds and 
 set; served with turkey, or as a preserve. 
 
 CRANBERRY ROLL — Light biscuit dough 
 sweetened and flavored, rolled out thin, spread 
 with cranberry jam, rolled up, ends tucked in, 
 
70 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 placed in buttered French bread pans and 
 baked; or steamed; or tied in a floured cloth, 
 plunged into boiling water and boiled; served 
 in slices with sweet sauce. 
 
 CRANBERRY TARTLETTES— Fancy sets of 
 gem pans lined with puff paste trimmings, 
 spread with cranberry jam, baked; served for 
 dessert. 
 
 THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE STEWARD 
 CAN BUY GOOD SOUND CRANBERRIES 
 VERY CHEAP; HE SHOULD THEN DO 
 SO, FOR THEY CAN BE KEPT SOUND 
 FOR MONTHS IF FILLED INTO JARS 
 AND KEPT IN A COOL PLACE, COVERED 
 WITH WATER THAT IS OCCASIONALLY 
 REPLENISHED. 
 
 CRAPAUDINE — A French term applied to 
 small birds that are split down the back, then 
 trussed out resembling a frog, such as spring 
 chickens, squabs, quails, partridges, etc, hence 
 a squab " a la crapaudine" would be a squab 
 split, spread out and trussed like a frog, broiled 
 and served with crapaudine sauce. 
 
 CRAYFISH — Also called " crawfish " is a diminu- 
 tive looking lobster, found plentifully in our 
 rivers. In Europe they catch a sea crayfish and 
 often sell it as a lobster; cur river crayfish on 
 account of its form and color brings it into use 
 as an artistic garniture, while the flesh from the 
 tail forms many delicate entrees, salads and 
 sauces, also soups, that are much thought of 
 on the European continent. 
 
 CREAM — Spelled by the French " creme " it is 
 the oleaginous part of milk, and forms the most 
 delicate soups, sauces, custards, creams, ices 
 russes, souffles, cheeses and pastries. . , In 
 general hotel routine, the cook uses the word' 
 cream, when little or no cream at all is used 
 and with the following recipes such "creams' 
 will predominate. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE— Boiling milk, melted Dutterin 
 a saucepan with as much flour as it will take 
 up, stirred together, gradually moistened while 
 stirring with the boiling milk, seasoned with 
 salt, red pepper, nutmeg, and lastly, when re- 
 moving from the fire, the juice of a lemon is 
 added, strained through a fine strainer, and some 
 pure cream then mixed in. 
 
 BECHAMEL SAUCE— Boiling chicken broth 
 flavored with the liquor from canned mush- 
 rooms, flour and butter mixed, moistened 
 gradually with the boiling liquor while stirring, 
 seasoned with red pepper, salt, lemon juice and 
 nutmeg, strained through a fine strainer, one 
 fourth of its bulk of pure cream then added. 
 
 CREAM FRITTERS— Boiling milk with a small 
 piece of butter, sweetened to taste, thickened 
 with corn starch mixed with cream, allowed to 
 boil up again, then further thickened with a 
 liaison of egg yolks and cream, removed from 
 
 the fire, flavored, turned into a wet pan, allowed 
 to become cold and firm, then cut into shapes, 
 double breaded, fried, served with the follow- 
 ing cream sauce. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE— Two thirds milk and one third 
 cream mixed and sweetened, brought to the 
 boil, then thickened to the consistency of 
 double cream with a little corn starch moistened 
 with cream and egg yolks, strained, finished 
 with a glass of Madeira wine. 
 
 CREAM PUFFS — Choux paste (see recipe) piped 
 into dome shapes on a baking sheet, baked, 
 hole then made in side and filled with a cream, 
 made as given for "cream fritters" above, but 
 softer. 
 
 WHIPPED CREAM— Good, heavy cold cream 
 whipped till it stands like beaten whites of eggs; 
 used for beverages, desserts, as an accompani- 
 ment to shortcake, etc. 
 
 BAVARIAN CREAM — The whipped cream 
 above, when firm is sweetened and flavored, 
 then melted gelatine at the rate of two ounces 
 to the gallon is worked in quickly, rapidly 
 poured into molds, shook level, set in ice box 
 till firm, turned out on a dish; served either 
 plain, or with cake, fruit, compotes, etc. 
 
 BAVARIAN CREAM— May also be made with 
 an equal quantity of the "cream fritter" mix- 
 ture above and the preceding recipe. The ends 
 and sides of the molds may be previously decor- 
 ated with fruits, and the ornamental top of the 
 mold with plain sweetened cream flavored and 
 colored, set with gelatine; also the cream be- 
 fore being poured into the molds may have 
 candied peels, seedless raisins, pistachio nuis, 
 almonds, marmalades, stewed and fresh fruits, 
 pieces of wine jelly, etc. stirred in. The flavor- 
 ings used are different syrups, liqueurs, es- 
 sences, etc; also coffee, tea and chocolate. 
 
 ICE CREAM — There are two ways of making it, 
 the best being made of pure cream sweetened 
 and flavored, then strained into a freezer and 
 frozen. The other way is to boil milk and 
 sugar, thicken it with a liaison of egg yolks and 
 cream, or cornstarch, then with eggs, or milk 
 and eggs, thus forming a frozen custard (but 
 which is called ice cream); again, others thick- 
 en or stiffen boiling milk with gelatine, Irish 
 moss, etc., then flavor and freeze. . . All tne 
 different kinds of ice cream seen on "bills of 
 fare" have either of the foregoing as a basis, 
 
 . the flavors, colors, shapes, etc. given after- 
 wards. 
 
 CREAM OF TARTAR— A most valuable ingred- 
 ient of baking powders. It is also, for feverish 
 people, one of the most perfeci of blood coolers 
 when made into a drink as follows: Grate the 
 rinds of three lemons and add the juice of them 
 to a cupful of granulated sugar and three des- 
 sert spoonfuls of cream of tartar; on this pour 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 three quarts of boiling water, allow to cool, 
 strain, and it is ready for drinking. 
 CRECY — The name of a French city, celebrated 
 for its carrots grown in the neighborhood. A 
 soup is named after it, hence we have " Puree 
 Crecy" which is puree of carrots. 
 
 CREPES- The French word for a kind of pan- 
 cake, much used on festival occasions by the 
 Latin race. 
 
 CREPINETTES— Small, flat sausages of various 
 delicate morsels, wrapped in pigs caul; it is a 
 French term, caul being called " Crepine " in 
 French. 
 
 CRESS — Called by the French "cresson" hence, 
 dishes seen on "bills of fare" with the attach- 
 ment "au cresson" are garnished with cress, 
 watercress being generally used. Besides being 
 a handsome garniture, it makes a fine salad, 
 eaten plain or with a sprinkling of salt, or with 
 a little salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar. 
 Watercress canapes are made of finely minced 
 watercress worked into fresh butter, and then 
 spread on thin slices of graham bread. 
 
 CROMESKIES — Also spelled "kromeskies" are 
 a sort of fritter made of fish, flesh, game and 
 fowl. The meats are made into a form of sal- 
 picon or croquette mixture, when cold formed 
 into cork shapes, then either rolled in a thin 
 short paste, or fritter batter, fried crisp, garn- 
 ished, sauced and served. An oyster cromesky 
 is an oyster dried with a cloth, wrapped with a 
 a thin slice of parboiled bacon, pinned with a 
 toothp ; ck, dipped in batter and fried; when 
 cooked, the toothpick removed before serving- 
 
 CROQUETTES — A mince of some cooked food, 
 such as beef, lamb, mutton, veal, pork, sweet- 
 breads, lobster, ham, all kinds of game, poultry 
 etc., blended with a high seasoning, and a sauce 
 to bind it with; when cold, it is made into 
 forms, such as cones, rolls, balls, cutlets, etd 
 rolled in flour, then breaded, fried in hot fat a 
 golden color; served with sauces and garnitures 
 that are appropriate to the food used. 
 
 CROUSTADES-Are .hollow crusts made with 
 bread, pastry, or a mixture of flour, eggs and 
 watergrain; they are used as receptacles for 
 savories and sweets, such as oysters, oyster 
 crabs, lobster, frogs, terrapin, sweetbreads, 
 lamb, chicken livers, fresh mushrooms, all 
 kinds of garnitures, macedoine of vegetables, 
 green peas; also sherbets, frozen punches, 
 whipped cream, ice cream forms, fruit and 
 wine jellies, etc. 
 
 CROUTE-AU-POT— Is literally crust in pot cr 
 soup. It is a broth containing slices of carrot 
 turnip, cabbage, and pieces of toast, the broth 
 is generally made from roast meat bones with a 
 piece of bacon or ham knuckle thrown in. 
 
 CROUTONS — As the word is used in a culinary 
 sense, are pieces of bread cut in the size and 
 
 71 
 
 shape of dice, fried in hot fat, or browned in 
 the oven, to serve with soup; or slices of bread 
 cut into block forms and fried, used to support 
 small birds, etc.; or slices of bread cut into 
 fancy shapes and fried, then used to garnish 
 hashes, minces, etc ; also used in connection 
 with shapes cut or stamped out of aspic jelly' 
 used to garnish salads and cold decorated foods. 
 CUCUMBERS— Are a vegetable fruit that is fav- 
 orably received by the majority of guests, eaten 
 plain with a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a lit- 
 tle grated onion to offset the bilious effects. 
 CREAMED CUCUMBERS — Peeled, cut in 
 slices }4 i ncn thick, steamed for a few minutes, 
 then put into a Bechamel sauce, simmered till 
 done; served either as a garnish or vegetable. 
 GLAZED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST— Peeled, 
 cut in slices % inch thick, boiled till tender in 
 salted water, taken up and drained, then dipped 
 in hot glaze; served overlapping each other on 
 a slice of buttered toast. 
 FRICASSEE OF CUCUMBERS— Peeled, cut 
 lengthwise in finger lengths, then simmered in 
 clear broth with a little sugar till tender, taken 
 up and drained, then placed into Hollandaise 
 sauce sharp with either lemon juice or white 
 wine vinegar, to which has been added a sea- 
 soning of Worcestershire sauce. 
 BLANQUETTE OF CUCUMBERS — Peeled, 
 cut in slices % inch thick; steamed; then placed 
 in a rich Veloute sauce, simmered; served in 
 the centre of a border of green peas. 
 STUFFED CUCUMBERS WITH FORCE- 
 MEAT— Peeled, cut in slices an inch thick, 
 cored, steamed, dipped into Veloute sauce, ar- 
 ranged on hot toast, the tops sprinkled with 
 parsley dust, the holes then filled from a forc- 
 ing bag and tube with a rich forcemeat of what- 
 ever is on hand. 
 CURRIED CUCUMBERS— Cucumbers peeled 
 and cored, cut into two-inch lengths, stuffed 
 with mutton forcemeat, rolled in flour, quickly 
 fried in butter, then arranged in a sautoir, cov- 
 ered with curry sauce, simmered till tender; 
 served with grains of boiled rice. 
 
 FRIED CUCUMBERS WITH MARROW— Cu- 
 cumbers peeled and cored; marrow bones sawn 
 into two-inch lengths and the marrow removed; 
 cucumbers cut into two-inch lengths; both are 
 then steamed for a few minutes, marrow then 
 rolled into minced chives, chervil, tarragon and 
 shallots, and inserted into the cucumber, which 
 is then breaded and fried; served with cucum- 
 ber sauce. 
 
 PUREE OF CUCUMBERS— Cucumbers peeled, 
 then parboiled in boiling salted water, taken up 
 and drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in flour, simmered in clarified butter, 
 little more flour added to form a roux, moist- 
 ened with boiling milk, boiled up, the whole 
 
72 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 then passed through a puree sieve; if to be used 
 for soup, it is thinned to the desired consis- 
 tency with equal parts of white stock and milk, 
 and seasoned with nutmeg and sugar. 
 
 CUCUMBER SALAD — Sliced cucumbers steeped 
 in salted water and ice for an hour, then 
 drained, dished up alternately with slices of 
 pickled beet and quartered hard boiled eggs, 
 dressed with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. 
 
 CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD— Sliced 
 cucumbers steeped in salted ice water for an 
 hour, a few spring onions also sliced; cucum- 
 bers drained, then mixed with the onions; 
 served with salad cream dressing. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, FRENCH STYLE— Slice the 
 cucumbers very thin, steep them in salted water 
 for several hours, then drain and mix with 
 French dressing containing some chopped tar- 
 ragon; serve on a crisp leaf of lettuce. 
 
 CUCUMBER KETCHUP— Large cucumbers 
 peeled and cored, then grated; to each gallon of 
 pulp after being drained, is mixed half a gallon 
 of cider vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of red pep- 
 per, eight teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pint of 
 fresh grated horseradish; when thoroughly in- 
 corporated it is bottled and sealed. 
 
 PICKLED CUCUMBERS— Small pickling cu- 
 cumbers select and firm, well washed and wiped; 
 take 400 of them and put them in crocks; make 
 a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
 the size of an egg, pour it over them at boiling 
 point and let them stand for 24 hours, then re- 
 move, wipe, and put into clean crocks and cover 
 with hot vinegar spiced with cloves, mace, onion, 
 and a % pound of mustard seed. 
 
 CUMIN — Name of a seed used in Europe as a 
 flavoring for stews, in cheeses, and by the Ger- 
 mans in bread. 
 
 CURACOA — Name of a liqueur made from bitter 
 orange peel; in cookery is used as a flavoring to 
 sweet sauces, creams, jellies, and blanc-manges. 
 
 CURD — Is the basis of cheese; the solid part 
 of milk; used by confectioners in producing 
 cheese cakes, blanc-manges, curds and whey, 
 curd pudding, curd puffs, etc. 
 
 CURRANTS — Are of three colors and flavors 
 red, white and black; they all make good pies; 
 the white and red are also cooked in syrup, 
 bottled, and named "Bar-le-duc" jelly; the black 
 make fine jams and jellies, wine, vinegar, gin. 
 
 DRIED CURRANTS— Are a different variety, a 
 sort of small seedless grape that grows wild in 
 parts of Greece; they are ripened on the vine, 
 then picked and packed into barrels, forming 
 a solid mass, and exported all over the world; 
 they are used in puddings, mince-meat, sauces, 
 pickles, dumplings, cakes, buns, pancakes, and 
 also made into a cheap wine. 
 
 CURRY — Name of a yellow powder composed gen- 
 erally of turmeric, coriander seeds, cardamons, 
 cumin seeds, red pepper, ginger, garlic, chillies, 
 cinnamon and black pepper; used in making 
 mulligatawney soups, and in flavoring food 
 sauces that are called curries. 
 
 CURING — By a safe and simple method applica- 
 ble to country hotels and small institutions, of 
 hams and bacon. The conditions under which 
 the curing of bacon may be conducted success- 
 fully is a uniform coolness in cellar, a uniform 
 strength of pickle, thorough cleanliness, the 
 cellar temperature should not exceed 50 degrees 
 F. Bacon is cured by simply rubbing the sides 
 with powdered salt to which has been added a 
 little saltpetre, then placing on the cellar floor; 
 they are then covered with salt to which has 
 been added 5 per cent, of saltpetre, and al- 
 lowed to lie for a week. The salt is then re- 
 moved, and the sides turned, rubbed again with 
 salt, saltpetre and a little sugar, and allowed to 
 lie covered with a fresh quantity of salt and 
 saltpetre for another week; the salt is then all 
 removed, and the sides are either hung up to 
 dry, or allowed to lie in the cellar for another 
 week, after which the bacon is ready in the 
 "green state" ; or it may then be smoked. 
 The best smoking materials are oak dust, oak 
 chips, peat, wheat straw, ash dust, or chips of 
 other hard woods; the two of greatest value 
 are the oak dust and peat, each imparting a 
 characteristic flavor. The word sides is used 
 allowing for whole halves of the bacon hog; but 
 if bellies alone are required, the process is the 
 same. 
 
 CUSTARD — Name applied to a mixture of eggs, 
 milk and sugar, mixed together, then baked, 
 steamed or boiled. The best proportion is: to 
 each quart of milk, work id. eight beaten eggs, 
 six ounces of sugar, then flavor; or the milk 
 may be boiled with a flavoring, then allowed to 
 cool; the custard to be in perfect condition 
 must only be allowed to reach the boiling or 
 settling point, as if allowed to cook longer it 
 will disintegrate and become watery. 
 
 CUTLETS — Are really rib chops of lamb, pork, 
 mutton and veal, but the term is also applied to 
 neatly trimmed slices of the same meats; also 
 to a slice cut an inch thick right across the 
 middle of a leg of mutton; the term is also ap- 
 plied to breasts of chicken, game and poultry; 
 imitation cutlets are also made of croquette 
 mixtures shaped into rib chop form. 
 
 CZARINA — Name of a Russian sauce often 
 served in that country with boiled tongue. It 
 is composed of a good Espagnole sauce contain- 
 ing minced gherkins, seedless raisins and lemon 
 juice, simmered till the raisins are soft. 
 
 DAMSON — The name of a peculiar flavored small 
 blue plum that if eaten raw would contract the 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 73 
 
 jaws; it is therefore always served in a cooked 
 condition, in which form it is rich and delicious; 
 it makes a fine preserve, jam, jelly, wine, com- 
 pote, pudding, pie and tartlette. 
 
 DANDELION— Or as the French call it "dent- 
 de-lion" dent meaning tooth, inasmuch as its 
 pecuilar shaped leaves resemble lions' teeth. It 
 makes a very pleasant salad, either by itself or 
 mixed with other salad leaves. The leaves 
 should be gathered before the sun is strong 
 enough to toughen them. The most simple way 
 of serving and that mostly liked, is dandelion 
 leaves with French dressing; dandelion leaves 
 and sorrel in equal parts, the dandelion cooked 
 half done before the sorrel leaves are added; 
 is used as a vegetable by the French. 
 
 DARIOLES— The name of a small plain or fluted 
 mold, these are lined with thin paste, then filled 
 with a cheese cake mixture, sweet custard mix- 
 ture or whipped cream, turned out when done, 
 and served like a small charlotte russe. 
 
 DARNE — Name sometimes seen on "bills of fare." 
 It is the French word for slice, and is generally 
 used in the term "Darne de sauraon" which is 
 a salmon steak. 
 
 D'ARTOIS — Is the name given to a certain kind 
 of cake made with puff paste and marmalade; 
 also in meat cookery to a sheet of puff paste 
 spread with a salpicon of fish forcemeat, cray- 
 fish tails, eel livers, oysters and mushrooms, 
 another sheet is laid on top, edges pinched to- 
 gether, brushed over with egg wash, baked; 
 served in slices twice as long as wide, on a folded 
 napkin. 
 
 DATES— The fruit of the palm tree; the fruit in 
 its green state is like a soft green pulp; when 
 the tree is in flower, the native Arabs bore into 
 the stem and draw the sap, which they call 
 palm milk, and ferment it into wine, much the 
 same as we draw the syrup from the maple tree 
 and convert it into sugar. Dates may be sub- 
 stituted for figs in cakes. They make a pretty 
 show on the fruit stand with slices of angelica; 
 also opened and the stone removed, and in its 
 place a piece of walnut, the date then rolled in 
 powdered sugar. 
 
 DATE PUDDING— One pound of chopped beef 
 suet, % pound of stoned dates, 14 ounces of 
 grated bread, 1% ounces of baking powder, 12 
 ounces of flour, one grated nutmeg, two eggs 
 and enough milk to make a medium mixture, 
 poured into molds, steamed three hours; served 
 with wine sauce. 
 
 DAUBE — Name given to a strong meat seasoning 
 of salt, powdered herbs, pepper and spices; 
 used to roll strips of larding pork in prior to in- 
 serting. The meat larded and daubed is named 
 "beef a la daube." 
 
 DAUPHINE — A French term applied to a cake 
 of the doughnut variety that has jelly in the 
 
 centre; sometimes called "Berlin pancakes" or 
 "brioche fritters"; " a la Dauphine" is used by 
 some cooks when decorating food with dauphine 
 cakes. 
 
 DEMI-GLAZE — Is half glaze, or glaze mixed to 
 form a bright jellied gravy. 
 
 DEVILS — Devilled fish, meat, bones, etc., such 
 as pork spareribs, ham, lobster meat, sardines, 
 kidneys, boned legs of cooked poultry, salmon 
 steaks, etc., are the articles highly seasoned, or 
 spread with a highly seasoned paste, then broiled 
 and served with or without a pungent sauce ap- 
 propriate to the food. 
 
 DIABLOTINS— The French term for small balls 
 of sweetmeats generally composed of almond 
 paste, rice paste, and grated orange peel, made 
 into balls, fried in very hot lard, drained, then 
 rolled in flavored powdered sugar; also balls of 
 the mixture given for cheesestraws with an egg 
 yolk added, then floured and fried, taken up and 
 rolled in grated cheese. 
 
 DIAMOND BACK— Name of the terrapin that 
 inhabits the salt marshes of the Chesapeake, 
 and is generally sold by the inch, 7 to 8 inches 
 being in the best of condition, and bringing the 
 highest price, from $6 to $10 each. 
 
 DIGESTION — Is something that every cook 
 should study. Foods cooked in different ways, 
 digest in different times, the following table is 
 medically correct. 
 
 A TABLE SHOWING THE TIME REQUIRED 
 
 TO DIGEST THE DIFFERENT FOODS 
 
 WHEN COOKED IN DIFFERENT 
 
 WAYS. 
 
 £ a 
 
 w 3 
 
 Pork steak broiled 3-15 
 
 " fat and lean roasted 5-15 
 
 " recently salted raw 3-00 
 
 " " stewed 3-00 
 
 " " broiled 3-15 
 
 " " " fried 4-15 
 
 " " " boiled 4-30 
 
 Turkey, wild roasted 2-18 
 
 " tame " 2-30 
 
 " " boiled 2-25 
 
 Goose roasted 2-30 
 
 Chickens, full grown fricasseed 2-45 
 
 Fowls, domestic boiled 4-00 
 
 roasted 4-00 
 
 Ducks, tame roasted 4-00 
 
 wild roasted 4-30 
 
 Soup, barley boiled 1-30 
 
 " bean " 3-00 
 
 chicken " 3-30 
 
 " mutton " 3-30 
 
 " oyster " 3-30 
 
 " beef, vegetables and bread.. " 4-00 
 
 marrowbones '• 4-10 
 
 Pig's feet, soused " 1-00 
 
 Tripe " 1-00 
 
 Brains, animal " 1-45 
 
 Spinal marrow, animal ■' 2-40 
 
 Liver, (beef), fresh broiled 2-00 
 
74 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Heart, (animal) fried 4 00 them in a sautoir, pour over some rich chicken 
 
 Cartilage boiled 4-15 stock and a little melted butter, place the cover 
 
 Tendon 5-5° on and reauce t a glaze, arrange a little rissoto 
 
 Hash, meat and vegetables warmed 2-30 at each en d of the serving dish, place the dolmas 
 
 Sausage, fresh broiled 3-20 * • ** 
 
 „ , .. „ ~ in the centre and pour the glaze over. 
 
 Gelatine 2-30 r t> 
 
 Cheese, old, strong raw 3-30 DOUGHBIRDS — Are plentiful on the coasts; 
 
 Green corn boiled 3-^5 they are about i*4 pounds in weight, when 
 
 " beans " 3~4S in prime condition, have a bill like a snipe, are 
 
 Beans, pod 2-30 delicious eating broiled, roasted or in a salmis. 
 
 P arsni P s " In j l~f DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS— That is the domes- 
 Potatoes roamed 2-30 
 
 11 baked 2-30 tic ones, are in season all the year round, the 
 
 • < boiled 2-30 duckling being in its best form about June. 
 
 Cabbage raw 2-30 BOILED DUCK, PARSLEY SAUCE— Ducks 
 
 " wiih vinegar " 2-00 singed and drawn, second joint of wings and 
 
 boiled 4-3° feet removed, washed, filled with a stuffing of 
 
 Carrots 3 3 ^ ry breadcrumbs mixed with salt, pepper, 
 
 turnips, white ^ 3 3 chopped parsley, nutmeg and grated lemon rind, 
 
 ' kol , . _ .. trussed, then simmered till tender in seasoned 
 
 Bread, corn baked 3-15 
 
 Bread, wheat, fresh " 3-30 whlte stock; served Wlth Parsley sauce. 
 
 Apples, sweet, mellow raw 1-30 BONED STUFFED DUCK WITH ASPIC— 
 
 sour, " " 2-00 Two ducks singed, split down the backs, boned, 
 
 hard " 2-50 laid out flat, skin side down, seasoned with salt, 
 
 Milk boiled 2-00 pepper and nutmeg, one of them spread with 
 
 11 raw 2—1^ * 
 
 u 3 forcemeat, the meat of the other placed on top, 
 
 s t f ' 1( ' whinned 1-30 s ^ in tnen Qrawn together, sewn, then either 
 
 roasted 2-15 roasted or braised till tender, taken up, pressed 
 
 ,, ,, soft boiled 3-00 between two boards till cold, trimmed and 
 
 • < hard " 3-30 glazed; served in slices with aspic. 
 
 tried 3-30 ROAST DUCK, ORANGE SAUCE— Ducks 
 
 Custard baked 2-45 singed and drawn; filled with a stuffing made of 
 
 Codfish, cured (dr j) boiled 2-00 , breadcrumbs, blanched minced onions, 
 
 Trout, salmon (fresh) " 1-30 , * , . . 
 
 ,1 1 11 11 fried i-^o chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a 
 
 Bass, striped " ...... ...... !. broiled 3-00 sour a PP le grated; truss, steam till firm and 
 
 Flounder " fried 3-30 plump (about half an hour) then roast and baste 
 
 Catfish " " 3-30 till brown and tender; served with sauce made 
 
 Salmon, salted boiled 4-00 of finely minced onion and bacon fried slowly 
 
 Oysters, fresh raw 2-55 till tender; add them to a rich poultry gravy 
 
 " roasted 3-15 containing port wine and the grated rind and 
 
 " , l ievf . e * 3-,o juice of an orange. 
 
 Venison, steak broiled 1-35 ' b 
 
 Pig (suckling) roasted 2-30 ROAST DUCK WITH PEAS, HANOVER 
 
 Lamb, fresh broiled 2-30 SAUCE — Ducks singed, drawn and washed, 
 
 Beef, fresh, lean, (dr> ) roasted 3-33 filled with a stuffing made of dry breadcrumbs, 
 
 Beef (with mustard) boiled 3-10 minced fried onions and bacon, also the heart 
 
 Beef (with salt only) " 3-36 anc l liver of the ducks, chopped parsley, salt, 
 
 Beef ' tried 4-00 pepper and sage; truss, steam half an hour, 
 
 Beef, fresh, lean, (rare) roasted 3-00 then rQast and ba _ te m brQwn and tend 
 
 Beefsteak broiled 3-00 
 
 ., „ , . ,, _ _. serve with green peas at one end of the dish 
 
 Mutton, fresh 3-°° , TX b r , 
 
 ,, ,, .boiled 3-00 ano - Hanover sauce at the other, made as fol- 
 
 11 .. ; roasted 3-15 lows: poultry livers boiled, then rubbed through 
 
 Veal " '• broiled 4-00 a sieve, added to a Veloute or cream sauce, sea- 
 
 " " fried 4-30 soned with lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. 
 
 DINDON— Is the French word for turkey; "din- BROILED DUCKLING WITH DEVILLED 
 
 donneaux" is the French word for the spring BUTTER — Duckling singed, second joint of 
 
 turkey used for broiling, weighing 4 to 6 pounds. wing removed, split down the back, drawn, 
 
 DOLMAS — A term applied to leaves of cabbage breastbone removed, laid out flat, seasoned with 
 
 parboiled, containing balls of forcemeat, and salt and pepper, slowly grilled till done and 
 
 served generally with rissoto. Take 50 cabbage brown; served on a slice of toast, with devilled 
 
 leaves, boil them for ten minutes, drain, make butter spread over the bird, garnish with cress 
 
 50 balls of forcemeat size of a walnut, place in and lemon * * * * Devilled butter; to each four 
 
 centre of the leaf, wrap the leaf around, arrange ounces of butter work in a level teaspoonful of 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 75 
 
 Cayenne pepper and half a teaspoonful of black, 
 % of a teaspoonful each of ground ginger and 
 curry powder, and a little finely chopped chervil 
 or parsley. 
 
 SAUTE OF DUCK WITH OLIVES— Ducks 
 singed, drawn, washed and steamed for half an 
 hour, taken up, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 brushed with melted butter, then rolled in flour, 
 quickly browned and basted in hot oven, taken 
 up, cut into portions; little minced onion lightly 
 fried in butter, flour added to form a roux, 
 moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
 skimmed, ducks then added, also halves of 
 stoned olives, simmered till ducks are tender, 
 sauce seasoned and finished with little orange 
 juice and port wine; served garnished with 
 croutons. 
 
 STEWED DUCKS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
 Ducks singed, drawn and washed, lightly but 
 quickly browned in oven, taken up and cut in 
 portions, small pieces of bacon fried with some 
 small cut spring onions; when brown, flour 
 added to form a roux, moistened with poultry 
 stock, boiled up and skimmed, ducks then added, 
 with a few sprigs of green mint, simmered till 
 tender, mint removed, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper; served with a crouton at ends of dish, 
 green peas at sides. 
 
 BRAISED DUCK WITH VEGETABLES— 
 Ducks singed, drawn and washed, brasiere lined 
 with thin slices of fat bacon, on which is placed 
 slices of onion and turnip, carrot and pieces of 
 celery, a few cloves, bay leaves, whole peppers 
 and some sage leaves; ducks arranged on top 
 moistened with white stock and the juice of a 
 lemon with its grated rind, lid put on, braised 
 and basted in oven till brown and tender, ducks 
 then taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
 poured over the ducks in serving pan; Julienne 
 vegetables sauteed and seasoned; served, por- 
 tions of duck with sauce over, garnished with 
 croutons at ends of dish and the Julienne vege- 
 tables at the sides. 
 
 SALMIS OF DUCK IN CROUSTADE— Neat 
 shaped slices of cold duck made hot in a chick 
 Madeira sauce, to which is added slices of mush- 
 rooms and callops of salt pork that have been 
 fried together, the sauce to be seasoned with 
 powdered sage and orange juice; served in paste 
 croustade cases, on lace paper. 
 
 SALMIS OF DUCK WITH FRIED HOMINY 
 Ducks singed, drawn and washed, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, floured, roasted and basted 
 till brown and frothy, taken up and cut into por- 
 tions; in the meantime the trimmings of the 
 birds are sauteed in olive oil with minced shall 
 lots, chives, thyme and bay leaves, then moist- 
 ened with white wine and reduced; equal quan- 
 tities of Bigarade and Espagnole sauce then 
 added with a few minced mushrooms, the whole 
 boiled up and skimmed; poured through a 
 
 strainer over the ducks in another sautoir, sim- 
 mered till tender; served garnished with slices 
 of fried hominy. 
 
 SAUTE Ob DUCK WITH CHESTNUTS— 
 Ducks singed, drawn and washed, steamed for 
 half an hour, then cut into joints, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, powdered sage and thyme, 
 rolled in flour, fried brown with bacon fat, taken 
 up and drained, then put into a brown sauce to- 
 gether with the minced giblets and some roasted 
 and peeled chestnuts, simmer till tender, finish 
 with port wine; served garnished with the chest- 
 nuts and a fancy crouton. 
 
 SALPICON OF DUCK IN CASES— Cold braised 
 duck and some of the sauce, the duck cut into 
 small neat pieces with a few mushrooms, re- 
 heated in the sauce; served in fancy paper 
 cases on lace paper. 
 
 CURRY OF DUCK WITH RICE— Ducks singed, 
 drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, 
 taken up, jointed, rubbed with curry powder, 
 rolled in flour; onions sliced and fried a light 
 brown in butter, taken up, joints then fried in 
 the same butter, onions then returned, flour 
 added, shook together, moistened with poultry 
 stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, curry powder 
 grated green apple, the juice and grated rind of 
 an orange, simmered till tender, duck then 
 taken up into another saucepan, the sauce 
 strained over it; served garnished with small 
 molds of dry boiled rice. 
 
 STEWED DUCK WITH TURNIPS — Ducks 
 singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an 
 hour, taken up, rolled in flour, fried whole in 
 butter, taken up and cut into portions; large 
 balls of turnip fried in butter, taken up and 
 placed with the duck; in the remaining butter 
 is then fried some minced shallots with sage 
 and thyme leaves, flour added to form a roux, 
 moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and 
 skimmed, strained over the ducks and turnips, 
 which are then simmered till tender; served 
 garnished with the turnips and croutons. 
 
 BRAISED DUCK WITH SAUERKRAUT — 
 Ducks singed, drawn and washed, then trussed, 
 arranged in brasiere with carrots, onion stuck 
 with cloves, celery and parsley, moistened with 
 seasoned white stock, covered with buttered 
 paper, lid put on, braised till tender and glazy, 
 taken up, braise strained and skimmed, ducks 
 cut into portions and the braise strained over 
 them. Sauerkraut well washed, put in a sautoir 
 with a piece of bacon, a piece of small bologna, 
 carrot, onion and parsley, moistened with some 
 fat and broth from the stock pot, stewed slowly 
 for two hours, then taken up and drained; vege- 
 tables thrown away, bacon and sausage cut in 
 slices; served, portions of duck flanked with the 
 the kraut and garnished with the bacon and 
 sausage. 
 
7 6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 FILLETS OF DUCKLING, MACEDOINE— 
 Ducklings singed, drawn and washed, then 
 steamed for ten minutes to plump them, taken 
 up, cooled, cut into four fillets, the backbones 
 then roasted with vegetables; when brown, 
 moistened with Bigarade sauce, boiled up and 
 strained over a cooked macedoine of vegetables, 
 the fillets seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered 
 sage and thyme, rolled in flour, arranged in 
 buttered baking pan, roasted and basted till 
 brown and frothy; served on a crouton garnished 
 with the macedoine in sauce. 
 
 FRIED FILLETS OF DUCKLING, SAUCE 
 BIGARADE — Ducklings prepared as in the pre- 
 ceding, but instead of roasting, fried a golden 
 color with butter; served on toast with Bigarade 
 sauce poured over, garnished with watercress. 
 
 ROAST SPRING DUCK, APPLE SAUCE — 
 Young ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
 steamed for five minutes, taken up, seasoned, 
 rolled in flour, arranged in baking pan, roasted 
 and basted till done; served in portions with 
 unsweetened stewed apples that have been 
 rubbed through a sieve. 
 
 STUFFED DUCKLING, ORANGE SAUCE— 
 Ducklings singed, drawn, washed, filled with a 
 stuffing composed of fresh grated breadcrumbs, 
 grated apple and lemon rind, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little sage f 
 trussed, then steamed for ten minutes, arranged 
 in a baking pan, dredged with flour, roasted 
 and basted till done; served with a brown sauce 
 made in the pan they were roasted in, flavored 
 with grated sour orange rind and its juice. 
 
 SAUTE OF DUCK WITH NOODLES— Ducks 
 singed, drawn, washed and trussed, steamed 
 for half an hour, taken up and cut into portions, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered sage, 
 rolled in flour, fried in butter, placed iu a 
 sautoir, dredged with flour, moistened with thin 
 Bigarade sauce, simmered \ ill tender; noodles 
 boiled till done, taken up and drained, then 
 mixed with a little minced chervil, and the 
 ducks' giblets minced and sauteed; served, the 
 duck in portions flanked with the noodles. 
 
 STEWED DUCK WITH STUFFED TOMA- 
 TOES — Ducks singed, drawn and washed, 
 filled with a stuffing composed of grated bread- 
 crumbs mixed with minced ham, mushrooms, 
 anchovies, shallot, parsley, salt and pepper, 
 trussed, steamed for ten minutes, arranged in 
 sautoir, moistened with stock and white wine, 
 lid put on, simmered till done; served with the 
 stuffing under each portion, garnished with 
 stuffed small tomatoes, tomato sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 STEWED DUCK WITH PUREE OF PEAS— 
 Ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, 
 stewed till tender in white stock containing a 
 few cloves, a clove of garlic, onion, thyme, 
 
 parsley and bay leaves; v/hen tender, taken up 
 and cut into portions, the broth reduced to a 
 half glaze with the addition of some Veloute 
 sauce, dried green peas boiled with a few sprigs 
 of mint and a little sugar; when done, rubbed 
 through a sieve, then mixed to a stiff consist- 
 ency with the reduced sauce; serve the duck 
 in portions masked with the peas puree. 
 
 STUFFED DUCK, ITALIAN SAUCE— Ducks 
 singed, drawn, washed, filled with a mixture of 
 breadcrumbs mixed with small pieces of fried 
 liver and bacon, thyme, truffles, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and powdered sage, bound with 
 egg yolks, trussed, steamed for half an hour, 
 taken up, rolled in flour, arranged in buttered 
 baking pan, roasted and basted till tender; 
 served in portions with the stuffing under, and 
 Italian sauce (brown) poured over. 
 
 SCALLOPED DUCKS' LIVERS— Livers sliced, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed spices, 
 sauteed in butter with a few minced shallots 
 and mushrooms, chopped parsley and a minced 
 clove of garlic, pour off the remaining butter, 
 add a few grated breadcrumbs, moisten lightly 
 with Bigarade sauce, fill into deep oval or scal- 
 lop dishes or shells, sprinkle with sifted 
 crumbs, baste with butter, brown off the top 
 and serve. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF DUCKS' LIVERS- Livers 
 sliced, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed 
 spices, lightly sauteed with butter, then run on 
 a skewer alternately with thin slices of par- 
 boiled bacon; when skewer is full, rolled in 
 melted butter, then in sifted breadcrumbs, 
 broiled till done; served on a strip of toast 
 with Hanover sauce at the sides, garnished 
 with cress and lemon. 
 
 STEWED DUCKS' GIBLETS IN BORDER- - 
 Livers and hearts sliced and sauteed with but- 
 ter, gizzards sliced and simmered in white 
 seasoned stock till tender, then taken up and 
 drained; hearts, livers and gizzards then mixed 
 into a mushroom sauce; simmered till done; 
 fancy border of mashed potatoes arranged on 
 serving dish one inch from the edge, giblets 
 placed in the centre, with green peas around 
 the potatoes. 
 
 DUCKS' GIBLET SOUP- Made the same as 
 chicken giblet soup (which see) substituting the 
 ducks' giblets. 
 
 D'UXELLES — Name of a very thick sauce gen- 
 erally used to coat cutlets before breading 
 them, composed of l /- each chopped parsley 
 and minced fried shallots and l / 2 minced sau- 
 teed mushooms, all worked into a thick Veloute' 
 sauce; or instead of l / 2 minced mushrooms, % 
 need only be used and the other % be minced 
 cooked ham or tongue. 
 
 DUTCH SAUCE— Another name for Hollan- 
 daise sauce, which is made by taking half a 
 
ihe culinary handbook. 
 
 77 
 
 cupful of white sauce and working into it a 
 small piece of glace, half a cupful of melted 
 butter, 6 yolks of eggs, bringing it slowly to a 
 custard-like thickness over a medium fire, then 
 seasoning it with salt, nutmeg and lemon juice. 
 
 ECARLATE — A French term often seen on bills 
 of fare as "a l'ecarlate. It is used to signify 
 that the food is red, and its natural color pre- 
 served. 
 
 ECLAIRS — A hollow form made of "choux- 
 paste" that is filled with pastry cream, with the 
 top generally coated with chocolate glaze. 
 
 EELS — Are of two kinds, the river or fresh water 
 eel, and the sea or conger eel. The flesh of 
 the river eel is sweet, fine grained and dainty; 
 that of the sea eel is coarse grained and oily; 
 they must always be skinned before using: to 
 do which a little silver sand is used to hold the 
 the eel by the head. With a sharp knife make 
 a circle round the neck, force down the skin an 
 inch or so, and then with a steady pull the skin 
 will strip off easily. 
 
 STEWED EELS, LONDON STYLE— A most 
 simple and dainty dish, made by cutting river 
 eels into two-inch lengths, boiling them till 
 done in a parsley butter sauce seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and a little vinegar; served in soup 
 plates with bread and butter. 
 
 GRILLED EELS, LONDON STYLE— River 
 eels skinned, coiled round and kept in shape 
 with a small skewer, dipped into beaten eggs, 
 then coated with a mixture of grated bread- 
 crumbs, lemon rind, chopped parsley and 
 thyme leaves, salt, pepper, nutmeg; broiled a 
 golden color and served with horseradish, with 
 the option of tartar sauce. 
 
 BAKED EELS, LONDON STYLE— River eels 
 
 skinned, coiled round, pinned into shape with 
 a skewer, coated with D'Uxelles sauce, rolled 
 in breadcrumbs, arranged in a buttered baking 
 pan, the inside of the coil filled with a piping 
 of fish forcemeat; brushed with butter, baked a 
 golden brown; served with Admiral sauce. 
 
 BOILED EELS, MAITRE D'HOTEL— River 
 eels cut into finger lengths, boiled fifteen min- 
 utes in salted water; served with a border of 
 mashed potatoes, with some Maitre D'Hotel 
 butter poured over the eels. 
 
 ROAST EELS, ANCHOVY BUTTER— River 
 eels skinned, coiled, fastened with skewers, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, wrapped in but- 
 tered paper, roasted in medium oven till done, 
 taken up, paper removed, spread with anchovy 
 butter; served very hot with a sprig of parsley 
 and slice of lemon inside the coiled eel. 
 
 FRIED EELS, SHRIMP SAUCE— River eels 
 skinned, cut into finger lengths; marinade them 
 over night in a mixture of vinegar, grated lemon 
 rind, salt, pepper and thyme, then taken up, 
 
 drained, breaded, fried; served with shrimp 
 sauce. 
 
 MATELOTE OF EELS— River eels skinned, 
 cut into finger lengths, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, rolled in flour, lightly fried in butter, 
 taken up, add to the butter they are fried in 
 some white or red wine, thyme, marjoram, fish 
 stock, red pepper, a few cloves and minced 
 shallots, rapidly reduce; then is added Veloute 
 sauce, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the 
 eels in another sautoir, finished by adding some 
 button mushrooms, blanched oysters or mussels, 
 and season with lemon juice; served garnished 
 with fancy croutons. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF EELS— River eels skinned, 
 cut into finger lengths, put to boil in fish stock 
 with a little white wine, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, a few minced shallots, bunch of herbs, 
 salt and whole peppers; when done, taken up 
 into a sautoir, the liquor reduced, then strained 
 into a thick Hollandaise sauce, containing 
 chopped parsley; eels placed into the finished 
 sauce; served with a garnish of fancy croutons. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF EELS, TARTAR SAUCE— 
 For recipe, see heading of Brochette. 
 
 BRAISED EELS, ALLEMANDE SAUCE— 
 River eels skinned and cut into finger lengths, 
 sprinkled with salt, allowed to remain with the 
 salt on for half an hour, then washed in cold 
 water, drained, arranged in a sautoir with a 
 little butter, parsley, whole peppers, slices of 
 lemon, minced shallots, salt, pepper, nutmeg 
 and a few slices of bacon, moistened with a lit- 
 tle fish stock and braised till done, taken up in- 
 to another sautoir, braise strained and skimmed, 
 then mixed into Allemande sauce which is 
 poured over the eels; served with them, garn- 
 ished with croutons. 
 
 BROILED BONED EELS— River eels skinned 
 and cut into finger lengths, split down the back 
 and the bone removed, seasoned with salt, pep- 
 per and nutmeg, dipped in beaten egg, then 
 rolled in sifted breadcrumbs, seasoned with 
 powdered herbs and pepper, broiled and basted 
 till done; served on toast with anchovy butter, 
 garnished with lemon. 
 
 ORLY OF EELS— Prepared and boned as in 
 the preceding, but instead of breading they are 
 dipped in batter, fried, and served with rings of 
 crisp fried onions. 
 
 EEL SALAD — River eels skinned and boned, cut 
 into short finger lengths, laid in salted water 
 for an hour, then taken up and wiped dry, ar- 
 ranged in baking pan, sprinkled with salt, pep- 
 per and mixed ground spices, moistened with 
 water and a little vinegar, adding a little dis- 
 solved gelatine, bake till done and glazy; served 
 cold masked with ravigote or tartar sauce, 
 garnished with slices of cucumber. 
 
7« 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ROAST STUFFED CONGER EEL, ADMIRAL 
 SAUCE — Portion cuts skinned and boned, 
 laid for two hours in salted vinegar with 
 chopped sweet herbs, taken up, filled with veal 
 stuffing, tied round with string, rolled in flour, 
 arranged in baking pan, roasted and basted till 
 done; served with Admiral sauce. 
 
 BOILED CONGER EEL, ALLEMANDE 
 SAUCE — Portion cuts skinned and boned, tied 
 round with string, blanched, then placed in 
 sautoir with bay leaves, onions, parsley, whole 
 peppers, little garlic, salt and vinegar; cover 
 with water, simmered till done, taken up and 
 drained; served with Allemande sauce, garn- 
 ished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 FRIED CONGER EEL, TARTAR SAUCE— 
 Portion cuts skinned and boned, steamed for 
 ten minutes, then seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per, breaded, fried; served with Tartar sauce, 
 garnished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 CURRIED CONGER EEL WITH RICE— Por- 
 tion cuts skinned and boned, marinaded for an 
 hour in salt water and vinegar, taken up, 
 rinsed in cold water, wiped dry, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried with but- 
 ter, removed into a sautoir; minced onions, 
 chives and a clove of garlic fried in the remain- 
 ing butter, flour added to form a roux, moist- 
 ened with fish stock, brought to the boil and 
 skimmed, then simmered for half an hour; the 
 eels sprinkled with curry powder, sauce 
 strained over them, simmered till done, finished 
 with cayenne pepper and lemon juice; served 
 inside a border of dry boiled grains of rice. 
 
 EEL-POUT — Is a combination of eel, catfish and 
 some other kind of fish; breeds its young alive 
 instead of with eggs; is more often called the 
 ' 'BURBOT". It is good boiled and served with 
 oyster sauce. 
 
 EGGS — That is, hen's eggs as most generally 
 used in cookery (other birds eggs will be found 
 under their respective headings) are very 
 nutritious, easily digested, and are used in a 
 multitude of ways, but the following recipes 
 will be found to be those most applicable to 
 ordinary hotel, restaurant and club patronage. 
 [Inexperienced hotel butchers have spoiled 
 much meat through their brine, by using the egg 
 test for strength, the test being that when the 
 brine will float an egg it is just right. If he 
 used a potato the same size as an egg he would 
 be more sure, for a new laid egg will sink to the 
 bottom of a brine and stay there; while a bad 
 egg will float and every day's age to the egg 
 from the newly laid brings it more to the sur- 
 face of the same strength of brine. MORAL: 
 weigh and measure your salt, saltpetre and 
 water] (see heading of brine). 
 
 SHIRRED EGGS— Shirred egg dish buttered, 
 eggs broken into it, two or three drops of clear 
 
 melted butter dripped over the eggs, placed in 
 oven till set. 
 
 SCRAMBLED EGGS— Four-fifths broken eggs 
 (not beaten), one fifth cream, seasoned with salt 
 and little melted butter, ladleful (made to hold 
 three eggs) poured into hot buttered frying pan, 
 stirred about or shook till softly set; served 
 either plain or on buttered toast. 
 
 POACHED EGGS— Eggs removed from shell, 
 dropped into simmering salted water contain- 
 ing a dash of vinegar; when set, taken up 
 drained; served plain or on buttered toast. 
 
 CURRIED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
 shells removed, reheated in a curry sauce made 
 from poultry stock; bed of rice in centre 
 of dish sprinkled with finely chopped parsley; 
 with the back of a spoon indentures made to 
 receive the eggs; served with the sauce poured 
 around the base. 
 
 STUFFED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
 shells removed, split lengthwise, yolks removed 
 and pounded with anchovy meat and butter, 
 filled back into the whites, smoothed over, dec- 
 orated and served. 
 
 DEVILLED EGGS— Hard boiled eggs with their 
 shells removed, split in halves lengthwise, 
 dipped in beaten egg, then in oil, sprinkled with 
 salt and red pepper, arranged in baking pan on 
 a sheet of oiled paper, thoroughly heated; 
 served on toast with sauce Diable poured over, 
 into which has been mixed some Bengal chut- 
 ney. 
 
 MASKED EGGS, MADEIRA SAUCE— Hard 
 boiled eggs with the shells removed, coated 
 with chicken forcemeat, then dipped into beaten 
 egg, baked; served with Madeira sauce poured 
 over, garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 EGG RAREBIT— Hard boiled eggs with the 
 shells removed, cut lengthwise in slices, ar- 
 ranged on serving platter, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, covered with a mixture of grated 
 cheese mixed with butter, browned off in oven; 
 served very hot. 
 
 MOLDED EGGS, PROVENCALE SAUCE— 
 Timbale molds brushed with butter, bottoms 
 sprinkled with minced fried shallots, eggs then 
 broken in, a little Creole garniture placed 
 en top. Baked till set, turned out on serving 
 dish; served with Provencale sauce poured over 
 and around. 
 
 EGGS, AU GRATIN— Slices of hard boiled eggs 
 in a gratin dish covered with white sauce, then 
 sprinkled with cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, 
 baked and served. 
 
 EGG PATTIES— Small squares of hard boiled 
 eggs mixed into a rich Supreme sauce with a 
 few mushrooms, filled into hot puff paste patty 
 shells. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 79 
 
 SALPICON OF EGGS— Yolks and whites of eggs 
 steamed separately till set; when cold, cut in 
 slices, then stamped out with column cutter to- 
 gether with tongue, truffles and mushrooms, 
 the whole then mixed into a rich Veloute sauce; 
 served garnished with fancy buttered toast. 
 
 EGGS, INDIAN STYLE— Into a soubise sauce 
 is worked enough curry powder to lightly color 
 it, brought to a simmer, eggs poached in it; 
 served on circular slices of toast with some 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 EGGS BREADED, CREOLE SAUCE— Eggs 
 boiled five minutes, shelled, dipped in thick 
 Hollandaise sauce, then in breadcrumbs, then 
 breaded and fried; served with Creole sauce or 
 garniture. 
 
 EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER— Eggs fried 
 with plenty of butter that is hot enough to turn 
 a nice brown color and froth up; when set, 
 taken up on toast; to the frothing butter is then 
 added a little tarragon vinegar, poured over the 
 eggs and served immediately. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF EGGS — Yolks and whites 
 steamed separately till set; when cold scooped 
 out with oval cutter, made hot in an onion 
 cream sauce and served. 
 
 EGGS WITH CAVIARE— Slices of hard boiled 
 eggs on buttered toast, the yolk covered with 
 caviare forced through a bag and star tube. 
 
 EGGS IN C ROUST ADE— Whites and yolks of 
 eggs steamed till set; when cold, cut in form of 
 dice with equal quantities of ham, tongue and 
 button mushrooms, reheated in Supreme sauce, 
 filled into hot paste croustades and served. 
 
 EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH TOMATOES— 
 One cupful of minced onions, 12 medium sized 
 tomatoes rubbed through a sieve, mixed, seas- 
 oned with salt, pepper and butter, simmered 
 till onion is done, 12 eggs then broken into the 
 simmering mixture, tossed about till set; served 
 in cases. 
 
 SCRAMBLED EGGS IN CASES— Eggs beaten 
 with minced green herbs, salt and pepper, 
 scrambled with plenty of butter; served in 
 fancy paper cases. 
 
 EGGS WITH ONION PUREE— Slices of hot 
 hard boiled eggs arranged around a centre of 
 thick puree of onions in Veloute" sauce. 
 
 OMELET WITH BACON— Plain or with Pi- 
 quante sauce. Cut the bacon into small dice, 
 fry fairly well done, pour off most of the fat, 
 turn in the beaten eggs, mix and form. 
 
 OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS— Roasted 
 kidneys cut in dice, and made hot in a little 
 demi-glaze and chopped parsley. Enclose the 
 mixture within the omelet; serve with a Madeira 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH CEPES— Cut the cepes into 
 dice; fry in butter for two or three minutes, 
 pour off the butter, and pour in the omelet 
 mixture; form and serve. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHEESE— Mix grated cheese 
 with the beaten eggs, in proportion of one-third 
 cheese to two- thirds beaten eggs, form the ome- 
 let, when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a 
 little grated cheese on top of the omelet and 
 brown off very quickly in a hot oven. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS— Blanch 
 the livers, then cut them into dice, fry them 
 lightly in butter for ten minutes with some 
 minced shallots and mushrooms, season with 
 salt and pepper and add a little chopped pars- 
 ley, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, and 
 serve a little Hanover sauce at both ends of 
 the omelet. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF— Scald, 
 drain, and mince the dried beef, mix it with 
 the beaten eggs, and form the omelet, pour a 
 little cream sauce around when serving. 
 
 OMELET WITH HAM— Cooked minced ham 
 made hot in Madeira sauce enclosed within the 
 omelet. 
 
 Raw minced ham with a little minced shallot 
 and parsley fried till done, omelet mixture 
 poured over it, formed and served. 
 
 Minced fried ham beaten up with the eggs, 
 poured into an omelet pan, formed and served. 
 
 OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS, au Madere 
 — Cut the kidneys into small dice and fry them 
 with minced shallots for three minutes, add a 
 little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, en- 
 close a spoonful within the omelet and pour 
 some of the sauce around. 
 
 OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS — Cooked 
 sweetbreads, cut in dice, simmered in mush- 
 room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the 
 omelet and a little sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS — If fresh 
 mushrooms, peel, trim and cut into dice and 
 fry. If canned, cut them in thin slices and fry; 
 drain and mix them into Madeira sauce, enclose 
 a spoonful in the omelet, serve with a spoonful 
 of the mushrooms at each end of the dish. 
 
 OMELET WITH SHRIMPS, MEXICAN 
 STYLE — Take fresh or canned shrimps, cut 
 in halves, mix with some finely chopped green 
 peppers, put it into a Veloute sauce containing 
 some lobster butter, simmer for five minutes, 
 enclose a spoonful within the omelet, turn on 
 to the serving dish, place two whole shrimps on 
 top, and pour some of the sauce around. 
 
 OMELET WITH FINE HERBS— Beat up with 
 the eggs, some finely minced shallots, thyme, 
 marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season 
 with salt and pepper, form the omelet and serve. 
 
8o 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 SPANISH OMELET — Finely shred onions, 
 minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, 
 solid tomatoes cut in small pieces, the whole 
 fried in butter for five minutes, then add some 
 tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper, re- 
 duce till thick, enclose a spoonful within the 
 omelet; when on the serving dish, place a spoon- 
 ful of the mixture at each end of the omelet and 
 garnish the top with fancy strips of Pimentoes 
 in oil. 
 
 OMELET WITH PARSLEY— Mix some finely 
 chopped parsley, pepper and salt with the beaten 
 eggs, form and serve. 
 
 OMELET WITH TOMATOES— Stew fresh or 
 canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, salt 
 and pepper to a thick pulp, enclose within the 
 omelet, pour tomato sauce around, 
 
 OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE— Take 
 some boiled rice, and moisten ii. with reduced 
 tomato sauce, enclose within the omelet, and 
 pour tomato sauce around, 
 
 OMELET WITH OYSTERS— Scald the oysters, 
 cut them in quarters, put them into a rich oyster 
 sauce, enclose a spoonful within the omelet; 
 when on the serving dish place three whole 
 scalded oysters on top of the omelet, pour some 
 oyster sauce over all, and sprinkle with parsley 
 dust. 
 
 OMELET WITH FRENCH PEAS — Simmer 
 some French peas in reduced Veloute sauce till 
 thick; place a spoonful within the omelet and a 
 spoonful at each end of the omelet on the serv- 
 ing dish, with cream sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH EGG PLANT— Cut the egg 
 plant inco dice, fry it in butter; when done add 
 a little meat glaze, enclose within the omelet 
 and pour some brown sauce around. 
 
 OMELET WITH SPINACH— Beat some puree 
 of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and 
 pepper, form and serve. 
 
 OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES— 
 Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables 
 (or use canned macedoine), boil till tender, drain, 
 moisten with a little demi-glaze or Supreme 
 sauce, enclose within the omelet, and decorate 
 the top of the omelet with the vegetables, pour 
 some of the sauce used around. 
 
 OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS — 
 Take cooked asparagus points, make them hot 
 in Allemande sauce, enclose within the omelet 
 and pour some of the sauce around. 
 
 OMELET WITH OLIVES— Take the olives, 
 stone them, slice them into four slices, make 
 them hot in Madeira sauce, enclose within the 
 omelet, decorate the top of the omelet with 
 slices of olives, and pour some Soubise sauce 
 around. 
 
 OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN— Take 
 minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Veloute 
 
 sauce, make hot, enclose within the omelet, 
 serve with Veloute sauce poured around. 
 
 CREOLE OMELET— Chopped green peppers, 
 onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, 
 made hot in thick tomato sauce, enclosed within 
 the omelet, and spoonfuls served at ends of the 
 omelet on the dish. 
 
 EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE— Peeled egg 
 plant in slices, sprinkled with salt; after having 
 laid a few minutes, wiped dry, then fried a 
 golden color with butter; cold rare roast beef 
 minced fine with a very little onion, mixed with 
 a few slices of peeled tomatoes, chopped pars- 
 ley, salt and pepper; stewed down thick, gratin 
 dishes buttered, bottom covered with the egg 
 plant, mince next, this covered with more egg 
 plant, moistened with rich roast beef gravy, 
 baked half an hour and served. 
 
 FRIED EGG PLANT— Egg plant peeled, cut in 
 slices, sprinkled with salt and allowed to marin- 
 ade for an hour, then wiped dry, rolled in flour, 
 dipped into beaten eggs, fried and served. 
 
 BROILED EGG PLANT ON TOAST— Peeled 
 egg plant cut in slices, sprinkled with salt and 
 allowed to remain for an hour, then wiped dry, 
 rolled in flour, then in melted butter, broiled 
 and basted; served on buttered toast. 
 
 STUFFED EGG PLANT— Small egg plant not 
 peeled, cut in halves lengthwise, part of centre 
 scooped out, the halves then fried on the cut 
 side; the scooped out part mixed with some 
 cooked salt pork, button mushrooms, minced 
 shallots, chopped chives and parsley, filled into 
 the openings, piled high, smoothed over and 
 baked. 
 
 EGG PLANT FRITTERS— Peeled egg plant cut 
 In slices, laid for an hour well sprinkled with 
 salt, then wiped dry, dipped in batter, slowly 
 fried in hot fat; served plain as a vegetable or 
 as an accompaniment to meat. 
 
 EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE— Make "the 
 broiled egg plant on toast" mentioned above; 
 when finished and on the toast, cover it with a 
 slice of cheese, place in hot oven till cheese is 
 melted and browned; served at once. 
 
 EGG PLANT STEWED— Peeled egg plant cut 
 in pieces size of small eggs, cold roast beef or 
 mutton cut in small pieces and mixed into a 
 rich gravy with a minced onion and peeled to- 
 matoes, brought to the boil, egg plant then put 
 in, simmered till done, then served. 
 
 ENDIVE— Also called CHICORY— Is cooked as 
 a vegetable same as spinach; also made into 
 salads, using the white leaves; dressed with 
 French dressing. 
 
 EPIGRAMME — A term used in cookery to denote 
 one kind of meat served in two forms on the 
 
 • same dish, such as, two chops, one breaded and 
 fried, the other broiled; served resting on each 
 other. See heading of respective meats. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ESPAGNOLE — Name of a stock sauce, used as 
 a basis to form many of the brown sauces; 
 made by frying in a thick bottomed large sauce- 
 pan till brown, ham, veal and beef in meat and 
 bones; carrots, onions, turnips, celery and pars- 
 ley; flour then added to form a roux, moistened 
 gradually with good brown stock, seasoned with 
 thyme, savory, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves, 
 whole peppers, and whole allspice; when boiled 
 up, skimmed, then is added a liberal quantity 
 of tomatoes, together with one or two old fowls 
 or roast poultry carcasses, simmered slowly for 
 several hours, strained, skimmed, finished with 
 sherry wine. 
 
 EXTRACTS — Or flavorings used in the making 
 of ice creams, jellies, cakes, puddings, sweet 
 sauces, etc., can be made much cheaper than 
 buying at the stores and paying for fancy labels 
 and bottles; the point is to obtain good oils and 
 pure alcohol. 
 
 EXTRACT OF CLOVES— 2 ozs. oil of cloves, 1 
 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF ANISEED— 1 oz. of oil of anise, 
 1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF CINNAMON— 1 oz. oil of cinna- 
 mon, 1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF BITTER ALMOND— 2 ozs. oil 
 of bitter almond, 1 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF LEMON— 2 ozs. oil of lemon, 1 
 pint of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN— 1 oz. oil of 
 wintergreen, 1 quart of alcohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF SARSAPARILLA— 1 oz. each of 
 oils of sassafras and wintergreen, 1 quart of al- 
 cohol, mix and use. 
 
 EXTRACT OF VANILLA- 2 ozs. of vanilla 
 beans, 6 ozs. of alcohol, 12 ozs. of water; cut 
 the beans small and bruise them, put them 
 in wide mouthed bottles, cover with the alco- 
 hol and water, steep for two weeks, shaking it 
 up every two days. 
 
 FARINA — A fine granular preparation made from 
 wheat. Of two kinds, white and graham, the lat- 
 ter being used as a breakfast cereal, the former 
 for paddings, quenelles and as a soup thicken- 
 ing. 
 
 BAKED FARINA PUDDING— 1 gallon of milk, 
 1 pound of farina, }i of a pound of sugar, l / 2 a 
 pound of butter, 5 whole and 6 yolks of eggs; 
 made by boiling the milk and sugar together, 
 then sprinkling in the farina, stirring continu- 
 ally till smooth, simmered for % of an hour, 
 then is added the beaten eggs and butter; flav- 
 ored to taste; poured into buttered pudding 
 pans, baked till set; served with a sweet or 
 wine sauce, preserved fruit, or compote of 
 stewed fruit. 
 
 BOILED FARINA PUDDING — Generally 
 served cold with sweetened or flavored cream, 
 
 whipped cream, stewed fruit or fruit marma- 
 lade; if after it is boiled it is poured into cups 
 and set, they are called Farina cup custards. 
 Made with l /i gallon of milk, y z pound of sugar, 
 Yz pound of farina, j(ofa pound of butter and 
 six yolks of eggs. 
 FARINA FRITTERS— The above mixture when 
 boiled is poured into a shallow pan brushed 
 with butter; when cold and firm cut into slices, 
 double breaded, fried, taken up and rolled in 
 powdered sugar; served with fruit sauce. 
 FENNEL — Name of a garden plant, esteemed as 
 a flavoring to boiled salmon and mackerel; used 
 in making "fennel sauce," which is the same as 
 parsley sauce, simply substituting chopped 
 fennel for parsley leaves. 
 FIGS — As seen in our markets are both fresh and 
 dried; the fresh are used in compotes and for 
 preserves, the dried for cakes, puddings, ices, 
 pastilles; also used as a dessert, either plain or 
 rolled in powdered sugar. 
 FINANCIERE — Name of both a sauce and garn- 
 ish, much used; the sauce is composed as fol- 
 lows: one pint of sherry wine with a chopped 
 truffle and a seasoning of red pepper is rapidly 
 boiled down to half its volume, then is added 
 one pint of espagnole; boiled again for five 
 minutes, then strained for use. For the garn- 
 ish composition see heading of "garnishes." 
 FINE HERBS— Called by the French "fines- 
 herbes"; it is a combination of minced shallots, 
 mushrooms and parsley. FINE HERBS 
 SAUCE is the ingredients mixed into some 
 espagnole or other brown sauce. 
 FINNAN HADDIE — Is the name commercially 
 given to smoked haddocks (see haddocks); they 
 are imported to this country and sell generally 
 at 10 cents per pound. 
 BROILED FINNAN HADDIE— Skinned, soaked 
 in warm water for half an hour, taken up and 
 wiped dry, the backbone removed from the 
 bone side, seasoned with pepper, brushed with 
 butter, broiled and basted; served very hot 
 with a sauce composed of melted butter, contain- 
 ing lemon juice, mustard and chopped parsley. 
 BOILED FINNAN HADDIE— Prepared as in 
 the preceding, put to boil in cold water, (unless 
 very thick three or four minutes boiling is suf- 
 ficient) served with Maitre D'Hotel butter 
 spread on the fish, garnished with parsley. 
 BAKED FINNAN HADDIE— Prepared as for 
 broiling, arranged in baking pan, moistened 
 with milk and melted butter, quickly baked and 
 basted; served with the sauce given for broiled. 
 FINNAN HADDIE, DELMONICO STYLE— 
 Prepared as for broiling, the fillets then arranged 
 in a shallow sautoir, moistened with cream, 
 boiled for five minutes, little Madeira wine 
 then added, boiled up again, then is stirred in 
 
82 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 a liaison of egg yolks and cream; when thick- 
 ened like thin custard a little more Madeira 
 wine added; served very hot in a chafing dish. 
 
 FLAGEOLETS — A green haricot bean put up in 
 cans by the French and imported to this 
 country; makes a very pleasing garnish, are 
 cheap, the best being about $1.75 a dozen cans. 
 
 FLANNEL CAKES— A sort of pancake; for 
 recipe see heading of Batter. 
 
 FLOUNDERS— A flat fish of the halibut species 
 but much smaller, in plentiful supply, very 
 often filleted, in fact generally used in this 
 country for fillets of soles; the name flounder 
 seldom appears on our bills of fare, hence its 
 recipes will be found under that h2ading. 
 
 FOIE-GRAS— Literally fat liver, is made by 
 taking the livers of fat geese, cooking them 
 with sweet herbs, wine and bacon, then pound- 
 ing it, rubbing it through a fine sieve, the 
 paste thus obtained being put away in small 
 jars, very often mixed with truffles; it is used 
 for sandwiches, garnishes, in croustades with 
 aspic jelly; cut in pieces and mixed with button 
 mushrooms in a rich sauce, then filled into 
 scallop shells, gratinated, baked and served; 
 also for lining game pies and patties; as a stuf- 
 fing for small game birds, etc. 
 
 FONDU — Is the name given by the French to a 
 dish of eggs scrambled soft with grated cheese 
 and butter; served very hot on toast, or filled 
 into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top 
 and served. 
 
 FORCEMEAT — Name given to a highly seasoned 
 mince that has been rubbed through a sieve; 
 used in making quenelles, lining pies, etc. 
 
 CHICKEN FORCEMEAT— Raw breast of chick- 
 en with the skin removed, pounded, rubbed 
 through a tamis mixed with a little cream and 
 strained whites of raw eggs, seasoned with salt, 
 red pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. 
 
 VEAL FORCEMEAT OR GODIVEAU— Equal 
 quantities of veal or beef kidney suet and lean 
 veal minced, pounded, rubbed through a sieve 
 with chopped chives, then is mixed in yolks of 
 eggs at the rate of two tc each pound of meat, 
 then finished to the proper consistency with 
 some strained cold Veloute sauce. 
 
 HAM AND LIVER FORCEMEAT— Light col- 
 ored calf's liver and fat ham in equal quantities 
 cut in small pieces, the liver laid in clear cold 
 water long enough to extract the blood, so that 
 the forcemeat will be whiter; after which it is 
 drained and wiped, the ham sauteed over a 
 quick fire, then the liver in the ham fat, of a 
 golden color together with some chopped shal- 
 lots, parsley and mushrooms, seasoned with red 
 pepper, salt and a little mixed spices, the 
 whole then chopped fine, pounded, rubbed 
 through a sieve; it is then ready for use. 
 
 FRANGIPANE — Name given to a cooked cus- 
 tard cream used iu filling puffs, eclairs, tart- 
 lettes, paper cases for souffles, open pies as 
 cream pies, etc. Made by boiling half a gallon 
 of milk with ^ of a pound of sugar, then pour- 
 ing it to 12 yolks of eggs that have been beaten 
 and mixed with J54 a pound of sifted flour and 
 a little cream; it is then returned to the fire 
 with 4 ounces of butter, brought just to a boil, 
 removed, flavored and strained for use. 
 
 FRANKFORTS — Name of a pork sausage that 
 is generally served with "sauerkraut." Made 
 of equal quantities of lean and fat pork minced 
 finely, seasoned with 3 ounces of mixed ground 
 coriander seeds, salt, nutmeg and pepper to 
 every 8 pounds, the sausage skins filled in the 
 ordinary way, then hung in a dry cool place 
 till wanted. 
 
 FRAPPE — A French word that signifies a liquor 
 is half frozen. 
 
 FRENCH DRESSING— Four parts of olive oil 
 to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a 
 little onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt 
 and red pepper, the whole thoroughly mixed. 
 
 FRIANTINE — French word sometimes used to 
 designate a "bouchee" or small patty shell, 
 hence a small patty of game may be called a 
 friantine of game. 
 
 FRICADELLES, ALSO CALLED FRICAN- 
 DELLES— Are made of three-fifths cold cooked 
 meat, one-fifth raw meat, one-fifth bread 
 crumbs or boiled rice, the whole minced, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper, parsley, herbs and 
 lemon juice, bound with beaten eggs, made up 
 into balls, pats, cutlet shapes, etc., fried in 
 dripping, or breaded and fried, then served 
 with a sauce or garniture appropriate to the 
 meat used. 
 
 FRICANDEAU— Name applied to the whole but- 
 tock or cushion of veal, that is larded, braised, 
 and served in broad slices with a sauce or 
 garniture. 
 
 FRITTERS — Are either a mixture of fruits, veg- 
 etables, meat or poultry combined with flour 
 and eggs to form a batter; or the article en- 
 closed within a baiter, then fried crisp, or 
 baked as for eclairs, etc. 
 
 CANDIED PEEL FRITTERS— Candied orange, 
 lemon and citron peel chopped fine and mixed 
 into a stiff batter composed of 1 pound of flour 
 moistened with two-thirds sweet wine and one- 
 third brandy; after all mixed, the whipped 
 whites of ten eggs are stirred in, the mix- 
 ture is then placed in a forcing bag with 
 large tube, and forced out into boiling fat, fried 
 crisp and done through, taken up, drained, 
 rolled in powdered sugar; served with wine 
 sauce, fruit puree or marmalade. Deviations 
 may be made by using the imported "fruits 
 glaces" such as angelica, poires, cerises, etc. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 *3 
 
 FRUIT FRITTERS— Blackberries, raspberries, 
 dewberries, strawberries, etc. mixed into a me- 
 dium stiff batter without breaking the fruit, 
 dropped by spoonfuls into very hot fat, fried, 
 drained; served with a sauce made of the fruit 
 used, the fritter being dusted with powdered 
 sugar. 
 
 SPANISH PUFF FRITTERS— Made by boiling 
 together 7 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, and 
 one pint of water; when boiling, 9 ozs. of sifted 
 flour is thrown in all ai once, and stirred till 
 well cooked, about five minutes, then removed 
 from the fire and ten eggs beaten in one at a 
 time, each egg to be thoroughly incorporated 
 before the next is put in; with the last egg is 
 added a tablespoonful of vanilla extract; 
 dropped in small spoonfuls in medium hot fat 
 they will expand into hollow balls about the 
 size of an orange; room must be allowed to 
 allow of their expansion and for them to roll 
 over; when done, drained; served dusted with 
 powdered sugar, vanilla or wine sauce around. 
 
 QUEEN FRITTERS— Same as the preceding, 
 but omitting the sugar and vanilla in the mix- 
 ture; when done, they may be split in the side 
 and filled with pastry cream, 
 
 CUSTARD FRITTERS- -Boiling milk and sugar 
 thickened stiff with cornstarch, some beaten 
 eggs then worked in, flavored with extract 
 poured into shallow pan; when cold, cut into, 
 diamond shapes, breaded, fried; served with 
 custard sauce. 
 
 CHOCOLATE FRITTERS— Same as the pre- 
 ceding, but boiling some chocolate with the 
 milk; served withvanilla cream sauce. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS — Apples peeled, cored, 
 leaving the stalk on, the core hole filled with 
 stiff fruit marmalade; dipped into a stiff batter, 
 slowly fried till done; served dusted with 
 powdered sugar. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS — Large good cooking apples 
 peeled and cored, cut in slices, dipped in bat- 
 ter, fried; served with fruits, rum or wine sauce. 
 
 RICE FRITTERS— Well boiled rice drained 
 and pounded, mixed with eggs, sugar and a 
 little flour; flavored with grated lemon rind, 
 made into flat round cakes with a depression in 
 the centre, fried; served coated with powdered 
 sugar, and the depression filled with marma- 
 lade or jelly. 
 
 GERMAN FRITTERS— Very light roll dough 
 cut out in thin flats, little jam placed in centre 
 of one, covered with another flat, allowed to 
 rise, then fried, drained, rolled in powdered 
 sugar and served; also called "Bismarks." 
 
 ORANGE FRITTERS — Quarters of skinned 
 oranges with the seeds removed blanched in a 
 thick syrup, taken up and drained, then dipped 
 
 in batter and fried; served with orange sauce 
 made from the syrup they were blanched in. 
 CONFITURE FRITTERS— Also called "beig- 
 nets aux confitures." Fruit marmalade spread 
 between two thin slices of plain cake, then 
 dipped in batter and fried. 
 PEACH FRITTERS— Halves of peeled fresh 
 fruit or canned ones drained, dipped in batter 
 and fried; served with a thick syrup sauce into 
 which has been worked some peach butter, the 
 fritters dusted with sugar. 
 APRICOT FRITTERS— Same as the preceding 
 but substituting apricots for peaches; an- 
 other way is to form a half apricot from rice 
 croquette mixture, and putting the half apricot 
 with it, pinning with a toothpick, dipped in 
 batter and fried, toothpick then removed; 
 served with sauce, 
 PINEAPPLE FRITTERS— Slices of cored can- 
 ned pineapple drained, dipped in batter and 
 fried; served with a wine syrup glace sauce. 
 CORN FRITTERS— Cooked corn cut from the 
 cob, or canned corn, pounded, mixed with 
 flour, eggs and butter, seasoned with salt, 
 dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat, fried; served 
 either as a vegetable or garnish. 
 PARSNIP FRITTERS— The parsnips boiled, 
 then mashed and mixed with flour, eggs and 
 butter, seasoned with salt and white pepper, 
 (the mixture should be medium soft) dropped 
 by spoonfuls in hot fat; when done, served as a 
 vegetable or garnish. 
 FROGS- There are two kinds on the market, the 
 small marsh frog, aud the large bull frog; the 
 bull is the most convenient for use and trade, 
 giving the guest most satisfaction, and the cook 
 least trouble in preparation. 
 FRIED FROGS, TARTAR SAUCE— The legs 
 marinaded for an hour in lemon juice, salt and 
 pepper, wiped, rolled in flour, then breaded 
 and fried; served with tartar sauce, garnished 
 with lemon slices and parsley. 
 BROILED FROG LEGS— The legs marinaded 
 for an hour in olive oil, lemon juice, salt and 
 pepper, taken up, floured, broiled and basted 
 with the marinade till done; served with Maitre 
 D'Hotel butter, garnished with lemon and pars- 
 ley. 
 STEWED FROG LEGS WITH PEAS— Frog 
 legs blanched for a few minutes in salted vine- 
 gar water, then drained and put into a rich 
 Veloute sauce, simmered till done; served with 
 a border of sauteed green peas, 
 FRICASSEE OF FROG LEGS-Frog legs lightly 
 sauteed with butter and minced shallots, taken 
 up, the butter then lightly browned, flour added 
 to form a roux, moistened with chicken stock, 
 brought to the boil, skimmed, seasoned with 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 salt, red pepper and sherry wine, legs put back 
 into it and simmered till done. 
 FROG LEGS, SOUTHERN STYLE— Frog legs 
 sauteed with butter and minced shallots, then 
 taken up; to the butter and shallots is now 
 added a little raw lean ham cut in small dice, 
 together with a chopped green pepper; when 
 ham is nearly done, add two quarts of chicken 
 consomme, a quart can each of okra and toma- 
 toes, brought to the boil, a cupful of well 
 washed rice then added; when rice is nearly 
 done, the frog legs are put in and simmered 
 till tender. It should be a thick stew. Served, 
 the legs in centre of dish with the vegetables 
 around as a garnish. 
 
 FROG LEGS SAUTE, PROVENCALE— The 
 legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
 teed with butter, taken up into a sautoir, cov- 
 ered with Provencale sauce, simmered till 
 tender; served garnished with small stuffed 
 onions and tomatoes. 
 
 FROG LEGS SAUTES, POULETTE — The 
 legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- 
 teed with butter and minced shallots, taken up 
 into a sautoir, covered with sauce Poulette, 
 simmered till tender; served with the sauce, 
 garnished with flageolet beans and fancy crou- 
 tons. 
 
 FROG LEGS SAUTE, BORDELAISE — The 
 legs sauteed with minced ham, garlic, shal- 
 lots, thyme and butter, taken up, to the resi- 
 due is then added sauce Espagnole with a 
 glass of claret wine; this is then reduced to a 
 demi-glaze and strained over the legs; served 
 garnished with fried slices of beef marrow. 
 
 FROG OMELET, SOUTHERN STYLE — 
 Shredded frog meat left over from either of the 
 four preceding receipts, mixed into a sauce 
 camposed of one-third each of tomato, Espag- 
 nole and Creole sauce; a spoonful enclosed 
 within a savory omelet; served with more of 
 the frog meat down he sides. 
 
 GALANTINE— A name applied to fowl, some 
 game, fish and meat that may be boned, stuffed, 
 boiled, braised or roasted, then pressed and cut 
 into slices for service when cold, either plain 
 or filled into molds with aspic jelly and decor- 
 ated. 
 
 GALANTINE OF TURKEY OR CHICKEN— 
 Two birds, the larger one to be singed, the 
 smaller skinned, the birds' skin split down the 
 back from the head to tail, the carcass re- 
 moved without further breaking the skin; the 
 large one laid out flat, skin downwards, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and powdered mixed 
 herbs; the under fillets of the breast to be filled 
 into the space which the breastbone occupied, 
 the wing and leg meat drawn inwards and the 
 sinews removed, the whole then spread with a 
 force or sausage meat; two strips each of cooked 
 
 tongue and fat salt pork arranged alternately 
 down the centre, also some slices of truffles if 
 at hand; the meat of the smaller bird then laid 
 over the stuffing, the white meat covering the 
 dark of the other bird, so that when cut, light 
 and dark meat is served to each portion; the 
 skin of the large bird is then drawn together 
 and sewn closely, placed into a cloth which is 
 again sewn and tied at the ends like a roly poly 
 pudding, plunged into boiling seasoned white 
 stock and simmered till done; taken up and 
 while still hot, pressed into a mold with screw 
 pressure or weight on top; when set and cold, 
 the cloth removed, the bird wiped with a hot 
 cloth to remove all grease and stains, it is then 
 sliced for the table. If the birds are both 
 young and juicy, instead of being boiled they 
 may be braised or roasted (of course without 
 being tied in a cloth), when done, taken up, 
 pressed, trimmed and glazed. 
 
 GALANTINES are however generally served 
 with aspic jelly, and the nicest way is to take 
 the birds when pressed, wipe and trim, cut in- 
 to even slices; galantine molds lined with aspic 
 jelly, then decorated with cooked peas, mace- 
 doines, fancy shapes of white of eggs, beet, car- 
 rot and truffles, these decorations again coated 
 with aspic to keep them in position, the slices 
 of bird then laid into the mold EDGES DOWN- 
 WARDS not laid flat; limpid aspic run between 
 each slice; when the mold is full, set, turned 
 out, decorated and sent to table. I have seen 
 galantines served at banquets where the slices 
 of meat have been laid flat in the mold, with 
 the result that the waiters could not procure a 
 decent slice to serve; had the edges been placed 
 downwards, the waiter or serving man would 
 have been able to move each slice with the jelly 
 adhering simply by the aid of a fork. 
 
 GAME — Name applied in a culinary sense to 
 birds and animals fit foi table use that are 
 hunted by sportsmen, the animals and birds 
 not being domesticated; these embrace wood- 
 cock, quail, snipe, partridge, wild ducks, geese 
 and brant, prairie chickens, grouse, pheasant, 
 reed birds, rail sora, ortolans, rice birds, sage 
 hens, wheat ears, larks, capercailzie, plover, 
 etc., squirrels, hares, venison, moose, caribou, 
 black bear, elk, antelope, mountain sheep and 
 goat; recipes will be found under each respec- 
 tive heading. 
 
 GARDEN PARTIES— Country club stewards 
 and caterers are often called upon to prepare 
 for and superintend garden parties, and as a 
 rule the meal is served out of doors, under a 
 marquee. When the steward or caterer has 
 several through the summer season, invarably 
 the same guests are to be found, he must there 
 fore rack his brains to continually change the 
 card. Solid food is NOT REQUIRED. The 
 refreshments should be tea and coffee, various 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 85 
 
 kinds of cups, delicate sandwiches of minced 
 and creamed meat and fish, individual cakes, 
 rolled bread and butter, ices, fruit; strawberries 
 and cream are usually served from large silver 
 bowls. The buffet should be well supplied with 
 canapes, bouchees, timbales, darioles, individ- 
 ual galantines made in fancy gem pans — all 
 things to be of an individual form as far as pos- 
 sible. Whatever wines are used should be of 
 the light and sparkling variety, never anything 
 heavy and heating. 
 
 GARFISH — Name of a fish with an elongated 
 mouth resembling in body both mackerel and 
 eel; they are prepared and served in all the 
 ways applicable to eels. 
 
 GARLIC — Name of a podded or cloved form of 
 onion of very strong taste and flavor, always to 
 be used sparingly ; it enters into many soups, 
 sauces and ragouts; in the recipes requiring it, 
 the word clove, signifies one of the sections. 
 
 GARNISHES — Name given to mixture of small 
 tasty foods in sauce, used as a garnish and 
 appropriate sauce to the main article served. 
 Unhappily there are so many garnishes, that 
 the average cook has not the brain to retain but 
 a limited number, and not one cook in a hun- 
 dred could sit down and write the component 
 parts of twenty garnitures right off the reel. It 
 is the garnishes that stupefy the guests and 
 make them order plain roast turkey; that cov- 
 ers the "bills of fare" with worse than mongrel 
 French; that spoils many a good dish because 
 the garnish used is not appropriate to the food 
 served; that makes the country hotel keeper ask 
 the cook what he wants this and that for; that 
 makes the guest when he looks at the bill of 
 fare exclaim: What in thunder is a la Montmor- 
 ency! a la this and a la that. The following 
 garnishes are the most principal in use, are 
 put in a simple way to memorize, not only their 
 ingredients; but that most important point that 
 up to date no cook book has ever attempted to 
 show. THE DISHES THAT THE GARN- 
 ISHES ARE APPROPRIATE TO. 
 ADMIRAL — Composed of shrimps, boiled cray- 
 fish tails, fried tufts of parsley, oysters or 
 mussels blanched, drained, dipped in Villeroi 
 sauce then breaded and fried; appropriate as a 
 garnish to WHOLE fish, the parts arranged in 
 small groups around the fish with Admiral 
 sauce served separately. 
 ALLEMANDE — For braised meat, is composed 
 of stewed sauerkrout, prunes and potato cakes 
 arranged around the meat, with Poivrade sauce 
 poured under it. 
 
 ALLEMANDE — For boiled leg of pork: omit 
 the stewed prunes and potato cakes, substitut- 
 ing glazed pieces of carrot, turnip and small 
 onions. 
 ALLEMANDE— For boiled chicken: the garn- 
 ish is quenelles of potatoes poached, then cov- 
 
 ered with fried bread crumbs, arranged around 
 the chicken with Allemande sauce poured un- 
 der. This same is applied to most fowl and 
 game served a l'Allemande. 
 
 ALLEMANDE — For braised fish such as carp or 
 pike, the garnish is composed of small fish 
 quenelles, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, 
 and either small oysters or mussels, arranged 
 around the fish with Allemande sauce in which 
 has been worked some of the fish braise and 
 anchovy butter. 
 
 ALLEMANDE — For roast or braised venison, 
 the meat is garnished with prunes stewed in 
 red wine, potato quenelles, and a sauce poured 
 over the meat; made by taking equal parts of 
 red currant jelly, Burgundy wine and Espag- 
 nole sauce, boiling them together with the rind 
 and juice of an orange, and a piece of stick 
 cinnamon, then strain. 
 
 ANDALOUSE— Small stuffed tomatoes and green 
 peppers, with a small mold of dry boiled rice, 
 arranged alternately around a dish of braised 
 or roast meat or fowl, with Andalouse sauce 
 poured under the meat. 
 
 AURORE — Composed of small fish quenelles, 
 button mushrooms and blanched oysters or 
 mussels, the whole mixed into Aurora sauce; 
 appropriate to garnish cutlets of fish, such as 
 salmon trout, pike, cod, snapper, halibut, etc. 
 
 ANGLAISE— For boiled beef is composed of 
 neatly trimmed plain boiled carrots and turnips, 
 arranged alternately around the meat with suet 
 dumplings; piquante sauce served separately. 
 
 ANGLAISE— For roast beef or fillet, is small 
 browned potatoes at the side of the meat, with 
 scraped horseradish at the ends. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For calf's head, is composed of a 
 slice each of boiled bacon and glazed tongue, 
 and served either with parsley or devil sauce. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For boiled chicken, is composed of 
 tufts of boiled cauliflower, a thin slice of ham, 
 and Bechamel sauce poured around. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For roast goose, is garnished with 
 plain sage and onion stuffing, a brown gravy 
 poured over, and apple sauce served separ- 
 ately. 
 
 ANGLAISE— For boiled leg of mutton, is garn- 
 ished with a small mold of mashed white 
 turnips, alternated with a trimmed boiled car- 
 rot, and served with caper sauce. 
 
 ANGLAISE— For boiled leg of salt pork, is garn- 
 ished with trimmed boiled carrots and turnips, 
 arranged alternately around the meat with a 
 puree of split peas. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For roast pork, is garnished with 
 sage and onion stuffing in spoonfuls alternately 
 with a small baked apple; brown gravy or 
 apple sauce served separately. 
 
86 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For boiled salmon, is garnished 
 either with shrimp, mussel or parsley sauce. 
 
 ANGLAISE — For roast turkey, is composed of 
 small pork sausages fried, a slice of boiled ham, 
 bacon, or salt pork, stewed chestnuts, arranged 
 alternately around the meat with stuffiing un- 
 der it, poivrade sauce poured around. 
 
 [THE ENGLISH WAY of serving salmis of 
 game is to simply garnish with button mush- 
 rooms and croutons. Their roast venison is 
 served plain with Yorkshire sauce]. 
 
 AFRICAINE — Composed of stewed okras, arti- 
 choke bottoms and pieces of egg plant mixed 
 into an Espagnole sauce; appropriate to serve 
 with braised veal and fowls. 
 
 AU JUS — Dishes so named are served with their 
 natural juice or gravy. 
 
 BAYARD — Composed of circular slices of red 
 tongue, truffles, mushrooms and artichokes, all 
 boiled down with a little Madeira wine, then 
 mixed into Espagnole sauce; appropriate to 
 serve with sweetbreads, lamb fries and other 
 white meat entrees, the ends of the dish being 
 garnished with croutons spread with foie-gras. 
 
 BORDELAISE — Composed of slices of parboiled 
 ox marrow and Bordelaise sauce, or a sauce or 
 butter composed of minced shallots, a suspic- 
 ion of garlic, minced parsley and butter; served 
 with broiled steaks. 
 
 BORDELAISE — For matelote of eels, is com- 
 posed of very small onions stewed, button 
 mushrooms and blanched sauteed oysters, the 
 whole sprinkled with chopped parsley, arranged 
 alternately round the matelote with fancy crou- 
 tons; no sauce. 
 
 BORDELAISE — For roast quails, is a garnish 
 of slices of truffles and mushrooms mixed into 
 a Bordelaise sauce. 
 
 BOURGIGNOTTE OR BOURGIGNONNE— Is 
 composed of very small onions stewed, then 
 glazed, with an equal quantity of button mush- 
 rooms and small quenelles of forcemeat all 
 mixed into a Bourgignotte sauce; appropriate 
 to serve with croustade of quails, cutlets of 
 sturgeon sautes, cutlets of mutton sautes, 
 braised pigeon cutlets, salmis of small birds, 
 etc. 
 
 BOUERGOISE— Consists of plain root vegeta- 
 bles glazed; appropriate for simple dishes, 
 such as, glazed shortribs of beef, braised flank 
 of beef, rolled breast of veal, etc. 
 
 BOHEMIENNE — Composed of stoned olives, 
 button mushrooms, small onions and balls of 
 potatoes; appropriate to garnish braised and 
 roast meat, under which is poured Poivrade 
 sauce. 
 
 BRETONNE — A garnish chiefly used with 
 braised leg of mutton; composed of boiled navy 
 beans, drained, then moistened with Bretonne 
 
 sauce, which is made of fried onions with a 
 suspicion of garlic, moistened with brown 
 sauce, seasoned, then rubbed through a tamis; 
 small olive shapes of potatoes fried a light 
 brown in butter, generally accompanies the 
 beans in the garniture. 
 
 CARDINAL — Composed of small quenelles of 
 lobster, small turned truffles and button mush- 
 rooms, all mixed into a Cardinal sauce; appro- 
 priate to serve with stuffed baked pike, carp, 
 boiled salmon, turbot, halibut, fillets of sole, 
 boudins of lobster, paupiettes of sole, fillets of 
 trout, etc. 
 
 CHAMBORD — Composed of fish quenelles, 
 truffles, button mushrooms, crayfish, small fish 
 roes, moistened with Genevoise sauce for the 
 one part. Crayfish tails, turned truffles, small 
 fish roes moistened with Villeroi sauce for the 
 second part; appropriate to garnish WHOLE 
 fish, such as salmon for a banquet table, the 
 two colored garnishes being used alternately, 
 intersticed with whole crayfish. 
 
 CHIPOLATA — Composed of small glazed onions, 
 glazed balls of carrot and turnip, chestnuts, 
 cocks combs and kernels or pieces of chicken, 
 pieces of braised bacon, balls of veal or pork 
 sausages and button mushrooms, the whole 
 moistened with Financiere sauce; appropriate 
 to garnish small birds on toast, braised cutlets 
 of mutton, roast pheasants, roast suckling pig, 
 roast turkey, saute of rabbit, braised prairie 
 hen, partridge with cabbage, braised capon, 
 cutlets of turkey, etc. 
 
 CHIVRY — Composed of blanched oysters coated 
 with Villeroi sauce, then breaded and fried; 
 small potato croquettes, small bouchees of 
 oysters, and crayfish tails dipped in Villeroi 
 sauce; appropriate garnish to whole fish. 
 
 DUCHESSE — Composed of strips of red tongue 
 and cocks combs mixed in Veloute sauce; 
 appropriate for white meat entrees. 
 
 DAUPHINE — Composed of Duchesse potatoes, 
 fried tufts of parsley and Italian sauce; used for 
 fried cutlets of chicken, veal cutlets, etc. 
 
 DURAND — Composed of trimmed slices of truf- 
 fles, chicken livers, mushrooms, ham, sweet- 
 breads, bacon, olives stuffed with truffle farce, 
 cocks combs, gherkins, and hard boiled yolks 
 of eggs cut in halves, the whole moistened 
 with Espagnole sauce that is flavored with 
 thyme; appropriate garnish to fricandeaus, 
 roast or braised legs of mutton, cushions of 
 veal, etc. 
 
 D'ARTOIS — A fish garnish composed of strips or 
 circles of puff paste containing a salpicon of 
 cooked crayfish tails, oysters, mushrooms and 
 white fleshed fish. 
 
 DUMAS — A garnish to be used with game; com- 
 posed of ham, veal kidneys, cooked and cut in- 
 to small sections, then moistened with Madeira 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 87 
 
 sauce containing chopped parsley, tarragon and 
 lemon juice. 
 
 ECARLETTE-Composed of pieces of red tongue, 
 corned beef and mushrooms moistened with a 
 Villeroi sauce; appropriate to garnish blanq- 
 ettes, supremes, etc. Also consists of red 
 tongue in tomato sauce; or lobster coral in a 
 V^loute sauce; these latter two should be used 
 when the meat or fish is red, so as to preserve 
 the color. 
 
 FERMIERE — Composed of Parisienne fried po- 
 tatoes, glazed balls of carrot, braised small 
 lettuces and hearts of cabbages; appropriate to 
 garnish braised or boiled beef, pot roasts, a la 
 modes, etc. 
 
 FINANCIERE — Composed of button mushrooms, 
 turned truffles, pieces of sweetbreads, cocks 
 combs and kernels, small quenelles of force- 
 meat, the whole moistened with Financiere 
 sauce; appropriate to garnish fillets of beef, 
 poultry, calf's head, sweetbreads, pigeons, sal- 
 mis of plovers, braised turtle fins, black game, 
 braised saddle of lamb, salmis of partridge and 
 pheasant, fillets of rabbits, necks of veal, veal 
 cutlets, roast loin of veal, etc. 
 
 FLAM ANDE — Composed of small pieces of bacon 
 and sausages, plenty of braised white cabbage, 
 turned boiled carrots and turnips, glazed onions; 
 or the dish served with Brussels sprouts in half 
 glaze, or with Flemish sauce. Appropriate 
 garnish to boiled beef, boiled or roast ham, 
 fillets of beef, large steaks, etc, 
 
 GODARD— Composed of turned and glazed truf- 
 fles, diced sweetbreads, godiveau quenelles and 
 button mushrooms (cocks combs and kernels, 
 optional) moistened with Madeira sauce; ap- 
 propriate garnish to braised sirloin of beef, 
 larded capons, braised saddle of lamb, etc., also 
 as a filling for timbales of macaroni which are 
 subsequently served with Perigueux sauce. 
 
 GOURMET — Composed of neat-shaped pieces 
 of ox palate, artichoke bottoms, turned truffles 
 and button mushrooms, moistened with Ma- 
 deira sauce; used for garnishing larded and 
 braised fresh ox tongue. 
 
 GREQUE — Composed of trimmed and blanched 
 okras which are then simmered in a little Ma- 
 deira sauce for ten minutes; used to garnish 
 veal cutlets sautes, with a little Bearnaise sauce 
 at ends of dish, also as a garnish to stewed veal. 
 
 HUSSARD — Composed of small circles of cooked 
 red tongue, slices of mushrooms and small go- 
 diveau quenelles, the whole moistened with 
 equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato puree; 
 used for garnishing braised white meat. 
 JOURNEAUX — Composed of slices of sauteed 
 chicken livers, moistened with rich Madeira 
 sauce; appropriate garnish to roast or braised 
 chicken, and as a filling for timbales, patties, 
 omelets, etc. 
 
 MACEDOINE— Composed of fancy shapes ot 
 cooked carrot, turnip, stringless beans, with 
 green peas, moistened with Allemande, Supreme 
 or Bechamel sauces, when served with white 
 meat entrees; or mixed with Espagnole sauce 
 for dark meat entrees. Appropriate garnish to 
 fillet of beef, boiled capon, braised ducks, glazed 
 fillets of ducklings, braised saddle of lamb, 
 breaded mutton cutlets, glazed ox tongue, fri- 
 candeau of veal, roast fillet of veal, epigramme 
 of lamb, fillets of capon, braised quails, larded 
 sweetbreads, etc. 
 
 MARINIERE— Composed of blanched oysters, 
 crayfish tails, turned truffles and small fish 
 quenelles; used to garnish boiled fish. 
 
 MATELOTE— Composed of pieces of fish roe, 
 very small onions sauteed in butter then drained, 
 pieces of truffle, blanched mussels or small 
 oysters and small fish quenelles, the whole 
 moistened with a Matelote sauce; appropriate 
 garnish to crimped codfish, eels, boiled salmon 
 steaks, fillets of soles, baked stuffed bluefish, 
 boiled carp, baked codfish, fried fillets of pike, 
 boiled red snapper, braised trout, etc, 
 
 MILAN AISE— Composed of inch pieces of boiled 
 macaroni and red tongue, slices of mushrooms, 
 a little boiled rice, chopped truffle peelings 
 and Parmesan cheese, the whole moistened 
 with equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato 
 pur£e (some raviolis optional); appropriate 
 garnish to braised fillet of beef, boiled capon, 
 boiled chicken, braised saddle of lamb, breaded 
 mutton cutlets, fillets of chicken, stuffed breast 
 of lamb, braised breast of veal, etc. 
 
 NAPOLITAINE— Composed of inch pieces of 
 boiled macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese; 
 sultana raisins stewed in wine, and glazed ravi- 
 olis, arranged alternately around the entree 
 with Napolitaine sauce poured under. Appro- 
 propriate garnish to roast fillet of beef, suckling 
 pig, braised capon, larded and glazed sweet- 
 breads. 
 
 NIVERN AISE— Composed of Julienne vegetables 
 sauteed in clarified butter with a little sugar, 
 then drained, moistened with consomme, and 
 when nearly done, rapidly boiled down to glaze; 
 used in this way or mixed into a Hollandaise 
 sauce. Appropriate garnish to breaded chicken 
 cutlets, braised beef and mutton, braised ducks, 
 haricot of mutton, mutton cutlets, etc. 
 
 PAYSANNE— Composed of slices of stuffed and 
 braised cucumber, slices of braised carrot and 
 small sausages, the whole then moistened with 
 strained braise; appropriate garnish to black 
 game, pheasant, haricot of mutton, haricot of 
 ox tails, etc. 
 PERIGUEUX— Composed of scallops of fat bird 
 livers and truffles braised in a mirepoix, to which 
 is then added some quenelles of forcemeat, cocks 
 combs and kernels with button mushrooms, the 
 
88 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 whole then moistened with Perigueux sauce, 
 boiled up for a minute or two. Appropriate 
 garnish to roast black game, large boudins of 
 poultry, salmis of partridges, roast pheasant, 
 roast stuffed turkey, roast stuffed suckling pig, 
 broiled stuffed boneless pigs feet, braised quails 
 on fried croustades, fried quarters of young rab- 
 bit, veal chops sautes (these are first trimmed, 
 seasoned, dipped in whipped egg whites, rolled 
 in minced truffles, smoothed with a knife, 
 sauteed slowly with butter a delicate brown 
 about twenty minutes). 
 
 PARISIAN— Composed of equal quantities of 
 turned truffles, button mushrooms and cocks ker- 
 nels, moistened with Parisian sauce. Appropri- 
 ate garnish to roast larded fillets of beef, fillets of 
 chicken sautes, fillets of partridges breaded and 
 sauteed, sauteed fillets of quails on toast, larded 
 and braised sweetbreads. (For a club dish, the 
 sweetbreads should be served three to the por- 
 tion, one larded with strips of truffles, one with 
 parsley stalks, the third with strips of red 
 tongue, served on toast with the garnish around.) 
 Fillets of soles stuffed and sauteed, (this is done 
 by filleting the fish, spreading them with force- 
 meat, arranged on a baking sheet, moistened 
 with a little white wine, covered with buttered 
 paper, slowly baked till the fish is set, then 
 allowed to cool, spread with a cold Allemande 
 sauce, breaded, then gently sauteed a fine color 
 with butter; served with the garnish.) 
 
 PROVENCALE— Composed of small stuffed and 
 baked tomatoes, small onions with the centers 
 removed after being steamed, the whole then 
 filled with forcemeat in which is worked a lit- 
 tle cheese and a flavor of garlic, they are then 
 sauteed; the entree when being served is sur- 
 rounded alternately with the onions and toma- 
 toes, also a sauce Provencale poured under the 
 meat; appropriate garnish to braised fillet of 
 beef, fried cutlets of chicken, braised ducks, 
 leg of mutton boned, stuffed and braised, 
 braised mutton cutlets, salmis of partridges, 
 roast stuffed sucking pig, fried calf's brains in 
 batter, salmis of all wild fowls. 
 
 REGENCY — composed of small fish quenelles, 
 cocks combs, button mushrooms, crayfish tails_ 
 truffles, and a little lobster coral, the whole 
 moistened with some Regency sauce; appropri- 
 ate garnish to WHOLE boiled salmon, trout, 
 pike, halibut, turbot and red snapper. 
 
 ROUENNAISE— Composed of turnips turned to 
 an even small size, sauteed in butter with a lit- 
 tle sugar till of a fine golden color, then mois- 
 tened with some sauce Espagnole and simmered 
 in it till tender; appropriate garnish to roast 
 ducks, roast or braised pheasant, braised leg of 
 mutton, capercailzie and black game. 
 
 ROUENNAISE— Is also the name of a useful 
 fish garnish and is composed for this use with 
 blanched oysters and shrimps with button 
 
 mushrooms, each in equal quantities, also some 
 lobster quenelles, the liquor from the blanched 
 oysters and mushrooms reduced with a little 
 white wine, then added to a Veloute sauce, fin- 
 ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
 lemon juice and chopped parsley, then is added 
 the ragout. 
 
 RICHELIEU — Composed of small poultry quen- 
 elles which have some brown puree of onions 
 in their composition, slices of braised poultry 
 livers and cocks combs, the whole moistened 
 with a brown onion puree sauce; appropriate 
 garnish to entrees of game and poultry that are 
 breaded and subsequently fried or broiled, also 
 boneless pigs feet breaded, braised carbonade 
 of mutton, crepinettes of partridge, etc. 
 
 ROYALE — Composed of a ragout of button mush- 
 rooms, cocks combs and kernels, small quenelles 
 of chicken and turned truffles, the ragout to be 
 moistened with the glazy strained braise from 
 the meat. Appropriate garnish to braised loin 
 of veal, breast of veal stuffed and braised, 
 braised saddle of lamb, braised capon, braised 
 rabbit, larded and braised fillets of chicken. 
 
 ROYALE- -Garnish when to be used for game, 
 such as braised venison, hare, pheasant, part- 
 ridge, etc., is composed of pieces of braised 
 pork sausages, braised bacon, button mush- 
 rooms and green gherkins, the whole moistened 
 with a Poivrade sauce. 
 
 ROYALE — This name is often applied to fish, 
 but when so applied it has no garnish, but is 
 meant to convey the form and style of cooking, 
 which is the fish either filleted and fried, or 
 boned, stuffed and stewed, then served with a 
 white Ravigote sauce, sometimes garnished with 
 fish quenelles. 
 
 ROYALE — This name when applied to soups and 
 consommes, has a garnish or filling composed 
 of fancy shapes or small timbales of custard; 
 made with consomme and egg yolks, or court- 
 bouillon and egg yolks, with some lobster roe, 
 minced mushrooms, minced truffles, parsley, 
 shallots, a green puree, etc., etc., mixed in ac- 
 cording to fancy, the custard steamed slowly, 
 the eggs simply mixed without much beating. 
 
 SOUBISE — Composed of small potato croquettes 
 and a puree soubise; made by sauteeing with 
 butter some blanched onions, seasoning with 
 nutmeg, red pepper and a pinch of sugar; when 
 of a light color, moistened with white sauce; 
 when done, the whole is rubbed through a 
 tamis in conjunction with a boiled floury potato 
 which keeps the puree firm. Appropriate gar- 
 nish to braised black game, boudins of chicken, 
 braised leg of mutton, larded neck of mutton, 
 braised mutton cutlets, braised partridges, 
 larded and braised pheasants, larded and 
 braised pork cutlets, scallops of sweetbreads 
 sauced, breaded and fried. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 89 
 
 STANLEY — Garniture often served with steaks, 
 composed of quartered fried bananas, small 
 timbales of horseradish mixed with rice, minced 
 shallots, cream and egg yolks; served with 
 sauce Albert over or around the steaks. 
 
 SUPREME — Composed of a puree of white 
 chicken meat and rice that has been boiled in 
 chicken stock, the puree being mixed with a lit- 
 tle rich cream ; arranged on the serving dish as a 
 border, decorated with fancy shapes of truffle, 
 the meat in the centre being covered with a 
 Supreme sauce, such as, breasts of chicken, 
 sweetbreads, capon, quails and partridges. 
 
 TOULOUSE — Composed of slices of geese livers 
 sauteed and glazed, button mushrooms blanched 
 with lemon juice and butter, scallops of sweet- 
 breads, turned truffles, cockscombs and kernels 
 masked with Toulouse or Supreme sauce. Ap- 
 propriate garnish to larded and sauteed fillets 
 of chicken, fricandeau of veal, sweetbreads, 
 capon, larded and sauteed ribs of veal. 
 
 TORTU — Composed of olive shaped pieces of 
 truffle and green gherkins, stoned small olives, 
 button mushrooms, scallops of blanched brains 
 or sweetbreads, the whole moistened with a rich 
 Madeira sauce; used to garnish calf's head, 
 larded and braised turtle, stewed turtle fins. 
 
 GHERKINS — A small prickly cucumber'used for 
 pickling; to pickle them they are first washed 
 and wiped, then placed in jars and covered with 
 a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato 
 the size of an egg; allowed to steep for 24 hours, 
 then taken out, wiped, placed in clean jars and 
 covered with hot vinegar spiced with an onion, 
 whole cloves, mustard seed, bay leaves and 
 mace; ready for use in two weeks. 
 
 GIBLETS — Are composed of the heart, liver, 
 gizzard and neck of poultry, and as each take a 
 different time to cook, they should be cooked in 
 groups of each and afterwards amalgamated; 
 all require blanching to remove the blood. 
 
 GIBLET SAUCE— Blanched and sauteed hearts, 
 livers and gizzards, cut very small, then mixed 
 into a thickened gravy from the roasted birds 
 to be served with. 
 
 GIBLET PIE — Geese giblets blanched, stewed 
 in stock till tender with some sherry wine, 
 carrot onion and parsley; when done, the 
 vegetables removed, sauce made from the 
 stock and seasoned with minced shallots, mush- 
 rooms, chopped parsley, red pepper, salt and a 
 little sweet basil; the giblets then arranged in 
 the pie dish together with some small pieces of 
 tender sauteed beef, the sauce poured over all, 
 covered with a short paste, egg washed and 
 baked. 
 
 STEWED GIBLETS WITH GREEN PEAS— 
 Poultry giblets prepared as in the preceding, 
 but instead of mixing with beef and placing in 
 
 pie dish, served as they are within a border of 
 green peas. 
 
 RAGOUT OF GIBLETS WITH POTATO 
 CROQUETTES— The giblets blanched, then 
 sauteed with bacon, finished by stewing till 
 tender in a brown sauce with balls of carrot and 
 small onions, adding at the last some button 
 mushrooms, season with sherry wine; served 
 within a border of small potato croquettes. 
 
 GIBLET SOUP— The necks and second wing 
 joints cut into inch pieces, the gizzards into 
 thin slices, saute them, boil the livers with some 
 minced onions, split the blanched hearts and 
 saute them, mix all together and moisten with 
 roast chicken gravy, let simmer till tender; 
 meanwhile prepare a soup to the consistency of 
 thin cream made from veal or chicken stock 
 that has been flavored with celery, carrots, tur- 
 nips and onions in equal proportions, bayleaf, 
 thyme, basil, savory and mace; when ready, 
 strain into the soup tureen, add the giblets in 
 sauce, finish with sherry wine and serve. 
 
 GIBLET SOUP WITH RICE— The giblets pre- 
 pared and sauced as in the preceding, the 
 soup made of equal parts of Espagnole, tomato 
 and Veloute sauces, thin to consistency with 
 veal or chicken broth, brought to the boil, 
 skimmed, rice added and simmered till tender, 
 then poured to the giblets, finish with Madeira 
 wine. 
 
 CLEAR GIBLET SOUP— Blanched giblets cut 
 into neat size, simmered in white broth till 
 tender, added to a chicken consomme together 
 with some Julienne vegetables. 
 
 GLAZE — Or reduced meat juice, used to glaze 
 or varnish cold meat, such as, boned roast 
 fowls, tongues, hams, game birds, boars head, 
 etc., to enrich soups and sauces; made by rap- 
 idly boiling down clarified stock, consomme or 
 very clear broths; these should have had veal 
 and beef bones, roast game and poultry car- 
 casses boiled in them so as to give the glaze a 
 rich flavor. 
 
 GODIVEAU — Name used for veal forcemeat, 
 made from 2 lbs. of lean veal, 2 lbs. of beef suet, 
 1 lb. of cooked veal udder, the whole pounded 
 till it is creamy, seasoned with red pepper, 
 salt, nutmeg, 8 eggs and half a pound of fresh 
 white grated bread crumbs, when all smooth, 
 it is rubbed through a tamis, and placed away 
 for use. It is valuable in making forcemeat 
 balls, as a lining for meat pies, etc., quenelles. 
 
 GOOSE — One of the domestic fowls much appre- 
 ciated by hotel patrons if young. Stewards can 
 tell this by the upper bill test, if the upper bill 
 will bend or cave in the middle it is young, the 
 firmer it is, the older the bird; it is not a very 
 profitable bird to the proprietor unless purch- 
 ased very low in price, because "when from a 
 goose you've taken legs and breast, wipe lips, 
 thank God, and give the poor the rest." 
 
go 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Spring or green geese about three months 
 old are never stuffed for roasting: the best 
 flavored geese are six to nine months old, and 
 best from September to Christmas. 
 
 BOILED GOOSE WITH PICKLED PORK— 
 The bird singed, drawn and washed, plunged 
 into boiling salted water with an onion, sim- 
 mered till tender; served in portions with a slice 
 of boiled ham or leg of salt pork, accompanied 
 with celery sauce. 
 
 ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH GODI- 
 VEAU — Young birds singed, washed, drawn, 
 filled with godiveau, trussed, roasted; served 
 with giblet sauce, accompanied with a garnish 
 of sauteed green peas at one end of dish, and 
 a mound of mashed potatoes at the other. 
 
 BRAISED GOOSE WITH SAUSAGES— The 
 bird prepared, stuffed with pork sausage meat 
 flavored with sage, braised with bacon and veg- 
 etables; served with a garnish of Parisienne 
 potatoes, broiled sausages, and gravy made 
 from the strained and skimmed braise. 
 
 ROAST GOOSE, APPLE SAUCE— The bird 
 prepared and stuffed with a mixture of dry 
 bread crumbs moistened with chopped green 
 apples, minced onion boiled with a little water 
 and butter; seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, 
 trussed, roasted; served with dressing under 
 the meat, apple sauce served separately. 
 
 ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHEST- 
 NUTS — The birds prepared and stuffed with a 
 mixture made of two-thirds chestnut puree 
 mixed with one-third godiveau, trussed, roasted; 
 served in portions: garnished with roasted and 
 peeled chestnuts, brown gravy made in the 
 roasting pan poured under the meat. 
 
 ROAST GOOSE WITH OYSTER STUFFING 
 — The birds prepared and filled with a stuffing 
 made of a quart each of oysters, bread crumbs, 
 and rolled oyster crackers, one-half a pound of 
 soft butter, four eggs, salt and pepper, roasted; 
 served with a brown oyster or brown celery 
 sauce. 
 
 GOOSE WITH KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE— 
 The goose prepared and trussed, arranged in a 
 deep sautoir with well washed and drained 
 sauerkraut, bacon and small bologna sausage, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, moistened with a 
 little broth and some fat from the top of stock, 
 fetched to the boil, then simmered till done; 
 served in portions with a garnish of kraut, bacon 
 and sausage. 
 
 STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED TUR- 
 NIPS — The bird prepared and stuffed with 
 grated bread seasoned with sage and thyme 
 leaves, parboiled minced onions, salt and pep- 
 per, placed in a sautoir with an onion stuck 
 with cloves, celery, parsley, little sherry wine 
 and butter, lid placed on, then put into a hot 
 oven, baked and basted till done and glazy; 
 
 served with a brown sauce made in the sauce- 
 pan it was cooked in, and garnished with col- 
 umns of glazed turnips. 
 
 BRAISED GOOSE WITH VEGETABLES— 
 Prepare, truss and braise the birds with bacon, 
 herbs and vegetables; served with brown gravy, 
 and garnished with even sized pieces of car- 
 rot and turnip glazed, intersected with Brussels 
 sprouts. 
 
 STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED APPLES 
 —The birds prepared and filled with mashed 
 potatoes mixed with minced and sauteed onions, 
 trussed, roasted; served with brown gravy, 
 garnished with small apples baked whole and 
 glazy. 
 
 ROAST GREEN GOOSE, GOOSEBERRY 
 SAUCE — The bird singed, drawn, washed, 
 trussed, with the inside seasoned well with 
 salt, pepper and powdered sage, roasted and 
 basted; served with gooseberry sauce. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE — Green gooseberries 
 with a little sugar and just enough water to 
 keep them from burning, in a saucepan, lid 
 placed on, simmered till done, then rubbed 
 through a sieve like cranberries; when passed 
 through a little butter is added, 
 
 GORGONZOLA — Name of a prime cheese made 
 in the North of Italy, somewhat resembling the 
 English stilton; it is of yellow color with rich 
 green veins, firm and creamy. 
 
 GRAHAM FLOUR— Name given to unbolted 
 flour by Sylvester Graham, who claims for it 
 more nutritive properties, but it has, however, 
 been proven to be less easy of digestion; it is 
 made into bread, pancakes, waffles, muffins, 
 mush and crackers. 
 
 GRAPES, FROSTED— Bunches of grapes dipped 
 into whites oi eggs whipped into a froth, then 
 into powdered sugar, surplus sugar then shaken 
 off, hung till set and dry, then served. 
 
 GRAPE JAM — Pulp the grapes, keeping the pulp 
 and skins separate, pour the pulp into a porce- 
 lain lined kettle and bring it to boiling point, 
 then press through a colander, add the skins 
 and measure; to every quart allow a pound of 
 sugar, mix, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, stirring 
 occasionally, pour into tumblers or jars, seal. 
 If green grapes allow one-half pound more 
 sugar to the quart. 
 
 GRAPE JELLY— Use freshly gathered ripe Con- 
 cord, Clinton or Isabella grapes, put them into 
 stone crocks, place the crocks in the bain-marie 
 of cold water, cover the tops and heat slowly 
 till grapes are soft; now put a small quantity at 
 a time into a jelly bag and squeeze out the juice; 
 measure the juice and to each quart allow 2 
 lbs. of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a 
 porcelain lined kettle over a brisk fire, place 
 the sugar in the oven to heat, boil the juice 
 rapidly for 20 minutes; then quickly add the 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 sugar, jtirring till it is dissolved; dip the glasses 
 into hot water, watch the liquid, and as soon as 
 it comes to the boil, remove from the fire and 
 fill the glasses. 
 
 GREEN GRAPE JELLY— Fox grapes are the 
 best; put the stemmed grapes into a porcelain 
 lined kettle, barely cover them with cold water, 
 cover the kettle, and boil slowly till the grapes 
 are very tender, then drain them through a 
 flannel jelly bag; to every quart of the juice al- 
 low 2 lbs. of granulated sugar, put the juice in- 
 to porcelain lined kettle, bring to the boil, then 
 add the sugar, and boil rapidly till it jellies, 
 about 20 minutes, skimming off the scum as it 
 rises; as soon as it jellies, dip the glasses into 
 boiling water and fill with the boiling liquid, 
 stand aside till cold and firm, then seal the 
 tops. 
 
 GRAPE FRUIT— Also called "shaddock" and 
 "forbidden fruit" and the largest ones "pompol- 
 eons", a fruit of the orange species, plentifully 
 grown in the West Indies and Florida, are of 
 an agreeable acii grape flavor; served cut in 
 halves across, with the sections loosened and 
 the seeds removed; eaten with powdered sugar, 
 a little sherry wine being a valuable addition. 
 
 GRAYLING — A prime game fish of fine flavor 
 weighing from 1 to 5 lbs, ; cooked and served in 
 all the ways applicable to brook trout. 
 
 GREENGAGE— Called by the French "Reine 
 Claude" a species of plum that when ripe re- 
 mains green; used as a table fruit, in compotes, 
 pies, jellies, ices, and as a sweet entree with 
 rice. 
 
 GRENADINS — Name applied to the fricandeau 
 of veal cut in half inch thick slices, then 
 stamped circular with a biscuit cutter, these 
 larded with seasoned strips of ham or bacon, 
 arranged in a sautoir, moistened with a light 
 colored strong consomme, reduced to a half 
 glaze and the larding is cooked; served overlap- 
 ping each other with a garnish of green peas or 
 glazed root vegetables in forms, or with gumbo 
 and egg plant, or a chipolata garnish, or with 
 small stuffed tomatoes and tomato sauce, or 
 with a Financiere garnish. 
 
 GRIDDLE CAKES — For recipes, see heading of 
 "batter." 
 
 G R O U S E — Under this heading comes the 
 "spruce", "ruffled", pintail", moor fowl", "cap- 
 ercailzie", prairie chicken", "ptarmigan", etc. 
 
 STUFFED GROUSE, MUSHROOM SAUCE— 
 The bird singed, drawn and washed, filled with 
 a stuffing made from the liver, minced onions 
 and mushrooms, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and 
 pepper, strips of bacon tied over the breast, 
 roasted; served with mushroom sauce flavored 
 with sherry wine. 
 
 GLAZED GROUSE, SAUCE TRIANON— The 
 birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, 
 quartered, skin removed, dipped into a game 
 
 glaze; served on a fancy crouton with sauce 
 Trianon poured around. 
 
 ROAST GROUSE, SCOTCH STYLE — The 
 birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, cut 
 in quarters, served on toast with Bigarade 
 sauce poured over, and garnished with slices of 
 oranges. 
 
 SALMIS OF GROUSE— The birds trussed and 
 roasted plain, taken up and cat into quarters, 
 placed in a sautoir, moistened with game sauce, 
 fetched to the simmer, flavored with sherry 
 wine; served with sauce over, garnished with 
 fancy croutons, the top of the bird sprinkled 
 with grated orange r nd and minced truffles. 
 
 ROAST GROUSE, HUNTERS STYLE— The 
 bird trussed and roasted plain, taken up and 
 cut into quarters; served on toast with sauce 
 poured over, made of 2 parts of Espagnole and 
 1 part tomato sauces, seasoned with minced 
 fried shallots, lemon juice, minced mushroom^ 
 and chopped parsley. 
 
 STEWED GROUSE WITH GREEN PEAS— 
 Stuff and truss young birds, roll them in butter, 
 quickly brown them in a very hot oven, take 
 out and place in a deep sautoir, moisten with 
 game sauce, put on the sautoir lid, lei stew 
 slowly till tender, take up and cut into portions, 
 keeping them hot in a little sauce, the sauce 
 they were stewed in then strained and skimmed, 
 seasoned with sherry wine; served poured over 
 the bird, garnished with green peas sautee. 
 
 BRAISED GROUSE WITH GLAZED CAR- 
 ROTS — Truss the birds, arrange in a braziere 
 with slices of bacon, celery, onion stuck with 
 cloves, bay leaves, slices of carrot and turnip, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, moisten 
 with game gravy, slices of bacon placed on the 
 birds and on the bacon a sheet of buttered 
 paper, lid then put on, the birds braised till 
 done and glazy, taken up, cut into portions, the 
 braise strained and skimmed, then mixed with 
 a rich brown sauce flavored with port wine; 
 served with the sauce poured over and gar- 
 nished with balls of sauteed and glazed carrots. 
 
 ROAST GROUSE, BREAD SAUCE — The 
 breasts of the bird larded with seasoned strips 
 of fat pork, trussed, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper; rolled in melted butter, then in flour, 
 roasted and basted till done; served with bread 
 sauce at sides. 
 
 STUFFED FILLETS OF GROUSE WITH 
 QUENELLE S— Young birds trussed and 
 roasted plain, taken up and filleted, the fillets 
 spread with game forcemeat, arranged on a 
 baking sheet, moistened and heated with game 
 sauce; when to be served, dipped in a game 
 glaze; served on a fancy crouton with game 
 sauce and garnished with small game quenelles. 
 
 BROILED GROUSE WITH BACON— Young 
 birds singed, split down the back, the back and 
 
92 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 breastbone removed, thigh bone snapped, laid 
 for half an hour in olive oil, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, broiled till done; served on 
 toast with strips of broiled bacon, Maitre 
 d'Hotel butter, garnished with Julienne pota- 
 toes. 
 
 GROUSE CUTLETS BRE ADCRUMBED— 
 Young birds singed, trussed and roasted, taken 
 up and jointed, skin removed, dipped into a 
 thick cooling rich game sauce, then in sifted 
 breadcrumbs, (not cracker dust) then breaded, 
 and arranged on a baking sheet, sprinkled with 
 melted butter, placed in oven, basted and 
 browned; served garnished with Duchesse 
 potatoes. 
 
 GRUYERE OR SWISS— Name of an imported 
 cheese used both in cooking and for the table; 
 is large, round, thick and flat in shape, has a 
 peculiar nutty flavor and when cut is found 
 to be full of small holes. 
 
 G ROUPER — Name of one of our Southern fishes, 
 found in three varieties, black, red and white; 
 the shape is a cross between a carp and a bass, 
 weighs from 5 to 10 lbs. ; the flesh is firm but 
 coarse; a second class fish. 
 
 BOILED GROUPER, CAPER SAUCE— The 
 fish prepared and boiled in salted water with 
 a little vinegar (time to simmer about 40 min- 
 utes), taken up and drained; served with caper 
 sauce and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 BOILED GROUPER, MATELOTE GARNISH 
 — The fish prepared and scored, boiled whole 
 in court-bouillon with a bunch of sweet herbs 
 when done, drained; served in slices with a lit- 
 tle lobster coral strewn over, garnished with a 
 Matelote (see garnishes). 
 
 GROUPER STUFFED AND BAKED, TOMA- 
 TO SAUCE — The fish scaled aud washed, 
 back bone and entrails removed, stuffed, put 
 back in shape and tied with twine, baked whole 
 with slices of salt pork; served in portions with 
 a strip of the pork and tomato sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 BAKED GROUPER, GULF STYLE— The fish 
 scaled, head removed, split down the back and 
 the backbone removed, laid out on greased pan, 
 seasoned with mixed peppers and salt, placed 
 in oven till heated through and set, then taken 
 out, moistened with melted butter, returned to 
 oven, baked with frequent basting till done 
 and brown; served in portions with tomato 
 puree around, and garnished with lemons. 
 
 GROUPER SAUTE, LOBSTER SAUCE— The 
 fish prepared, cut in steaks, laid in seasoned 
 olive oil, sauteed with it; when done and brown, 
 served with lobster coral strewn over the por- 
 tion and lobster sauce around. 
 
 BAKED RED GROUPER, SPANISH SAUCE 
 — The fish cleaned and scored, arranged in bak- 
 ing pan, moistened with white stock and some 
 
 fat from the stock pot, seasoned with salt, veg- 
 etables and a dash of vinegar, place in medium 
 oven; when about a third done, remove the up- 
 per skin, then baste frequently till done and 
 brown, (about one hour is required for a 7 lb. 
 fish); served in portions with Spanish sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 GUAVA — Name of a Southern and West Indian 
 fruit that is chiefly used in making preserves 
 and jellies. Guava jelly is one of the best to 
 serve with delicate flavored game. 
 
 GUINEA HEN — A domestic fowl smaller than 
 the ordinary chicken, with darker flesh, often 
 takes the place of partridge; is best to serve in 
 the spring of the year when game is a bit scarce. 
 
 ROAST LARDED GUINEA HEN— The bird 
 singed and drawn, the legs and breast larded 
 with seasoned strips of fat pork, rolled in but- 
 tered paper, baked till done and brown; served 
 with a brown poultry gravy, garnished with 
 watercress. 
 
 BROILED GUINEA HEN, WITH BACON— 
 Young birds singed, split down the back, the 
 breast and backbones removed, thigh bone 
 snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
 in flour, then in melted butter, broiled; served 
 on toast with strips of bacon, Maitre D'Hotel 
 butter, and garnished with Julienne potatoes 
 and watercress. 
 
 ROAST GUINEA HEN, SAUCE BEARNAISE- 
 The birds singed and cleaned, trussed, slices of 
 fat larding pork tied over the breast, roasted; 
 when about done, the pork removed, then 
 quickly browned; served in portions, garnished 
 at ends of dish with fancy croutons, and Bear- 
 naise sauce at the sides. 
 
 BRAISED STUFFED GUINEA HEN— The 
 birds singed and drawn, filled with a quenelle 
 forcemeat, the breasts larded, arranged in a 
 braizer with vegetables and spices, moistened 
 with stock and white wine, covered with strips 
 of bacon, braised and basted till done taken up, 
 the braise strained and skimmed, then rapidly 
 reduced to demi glaze, which is then added to 
 a Financiere garnish, the bird served whole or 
 in portions with the garnish around. 
 
 GUMBO — Another name for the vegetable okra; 
 for recipes see "OKRA". 
 
 HADDOCK — A fish of the cod species but 
 smaller; when dried and smoked is known as 
 smoked haddock or Finnan Haddie, from the 
 village of Finnan near Aberdeen, Scotland, 
 which is as famous for its curing haddocks as 
 Yarmouth is for its bloaters. 
 
 BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK-The fish scaled 
 and cleaned, backbone removed, filled with an 
 oyster stuffing, baked and basted till done; 
 served in portions with a brown oyster sauce. 
 
 BOILED HADDOCK, OYSTER SAUCE— The 
 fish prepared and cut in portions, boiled till 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 93 
 
 done in salted water with a dash of vinegar; 
 served with white oyster sauce and garnished 
 with Hollandaise potatoes. (With boiled had- 
 dock, egg, cream, Bechamel, parsley, shrimp, 
 lobster, crab and Hollandaise sauces are also 
 appropriate). 
 
 FILLETS OF HADDOCK. SAUTE 1 — The fish 
 cleaned, boned, cut in fillets, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, rolled in flour, sauteed in but- 
 ter, taken up, gravy made in the pan, strained, 
 the fish served sprinkled with parsley dust, 
 gravy at the sides, garnished with Parisienne 
 potatoes. 
 
 FILLETS OF HADDOCK, BREAD CRUMB- 
 ED, DUTCH SAUCE— Prepared and cut into 
 fillets as in the preceding, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then in sifted 
 breadcrumbs, fried; served with Dutch sauce at 
 the sides, garnished with cress and lemon. 
 
 BROILED FRESH HADDOCK, ANCHOVY 
 BUTTER- Prepared and cuL in fillets, rolled 
 in flour, broiled and basted with butter; served 
 spread with anchovy butter, garnished with 
 Saratoga chips, watercress and lemon slices. 
 
 CREAMED HADDOCK WITH OYSTERS— 
 cold boiled haddock in flakes without skin, 
 heated in Hollandaise sauce with an equal quan- 
 tity of blanched and drained oysters; served 
 piled high on toast, sprinkled with parsley dust. 
 
 BAKED FINNAN HADDIE, BUTTER SAUCE 
 — The fish trimmed and skinned, arranged in 
 a baking pan with a little water, placed in oven 
 till set, water then poured off, seasoned with 
 pepper, moistened with butter sauce, baked; 
 served with the sauce, garnished with parsley 
 and croutons. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIE SAUTE, PARSLEY SAUCE 
 — The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm 
 water for a few minutes, then sauteed with but- 
 ter; served on toast with parsley butter sauce 
 poured over, garnish with watercress. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIE BOILED, CREAM SAUCE 
 — The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm 
 water for an hour, washed, then put to boil in 
 cold water; served with cream sauce poured 
 over, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIE BAKED WITH TOMA- 
 TOES — The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in 
 warm water for an hour, washed, blanched, 
 cut in portions, arranged in baking pan with 
 sliced peeled tomatoes, minced fried shallots 
 and chopped parsley, baked; served on toast 
 with the tomatoes around. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIE BROILED, LOBSTER 
 BUTTER — The fish skinned, trimmed, blanch- 
 ed, dried, seasoned with pepper, rolled in olive 
 oil, broiled, served on toast, spread with lob- 
 ster butter, garnished with watercress. 
 
 FINNAN HADDIE BAKED, ABERDEEN 
 STYLE — The fish skinned and trimmed, baked 
 
 with milk and butter; served with a sauce made 
 of mustard, butter and lemon juice mixed to- 
 gether so that it is soft enough to melt when 
 laid on the hot fish. 
 
 HAGGIS — Name of a Scotch national dish pre- 
 pared by cutting into small pieces the heart, 
 liver, milt and skirt, together with the lungs of 
 a freshly killed sheep; after first blanching and 
 boiling till tender each separate part, to each 
 set of haslets as above is mixed one pound of 
 finely chopped beef suet, one half pint each of 
 minced onion and oatmeal, seasoned with salt, 
 red and black pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, 
 the whole thoroughly mixed and moistened with 
 a little beef gravy, the mixture is then filled in- 
 to a well cleansed sheep paunch, sewn up, 
 pricked with a fork to allow air escape, plunged 
 into boiling salted water, and kept simmering 
 till done, about two and a half hours; served 
 without any garnish. 
 
 HALIBUT — A large flat fish of the flounder 
 species, the young and medium sized ones be- 
 ing the best, and known as "Chicken halibut". 
 
 BOILED HALIBUT STEAK, CREAM SAUCE 
 — The fish scaled and trimmed, cut into steaks, 
 simmered in boiling salted water containing a 
 dash of vinegar; served sprinkled with parsley 
 dust, cream sauce at the sides. 
 
 BROILED HALIBUT STEAK— The steaks sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then 
 in olive oil, broiled; served with maitre d'hotel 
 butter, garnished with watercress and lemon, 
 sometimes with a strip of broiled bacon. 
 
 BOILED HALIBUT— The fish scaled and trim- 
 med, cut into portions, boiled in salted water 
 with a dash of vinegar; served with either lob- 
 ster, clam, cream or Hollandaise sauces. 
 
 BAKED HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE— The fish 
 scaled and trimmed, cut into portions, arranged 
 in baking pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 moistened with milk and butter, baked and 
 basted till done; served with egg sauce, garn- 
 ished with slices of hard boiled eggs. 
 
 FRIED HALIBUT STEAK, WITH BACON— 
 Slices of bacon blanched, then fried, the steaks 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, 
 then dipped into beaten eggs, fried a golden 
 brown in the bacon fat; served with strips of 
 bacon. 
 
 HALIBUT STEAK SAUTE, TOMATO SAUCE 
 — The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in flour, slowly sauteed a golden color 
 with butter; served with a sauce composed of 
 equal parts of tomato puree and tomato catsup. 
 
 CREAMED HALIBUT WITH MUSHROOMS 
 — Flakes of cold boiled halibut mixed with 
 slices of sauteed button mushrooms, moistened 
 with Bechamel sauce, filled into deep oval or 
 scallop dishes, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and 
 melted butter, baked a delicate brown and 
 served. 
 
94 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 HAM — A leg of pork salted and smoked. Hams 
 to be boiled, steamed or baked, should be soaked 
 overnight in cold water, thoroughly scrubbed 
 in the morning, and when cooking should be 
 allowed 20 minutes time for each pound in 
 weight. If to be kept for serving when cold, 
 they should be allowed to cool in the water 
 they were boiled in, as that keeps them moist 
 down to the last cutting, even for a week or 
 more. 
 
 STEWED HAM WITH SPINACH— The ham 
 prepared and steamed as directed above, taken 
 up, skinned; served in slices on a bed of spin- 
 ach with brown sauce at sides. 
 
 BOILED HAM WITH LIMA BEANS— Soaked 
 overnight, scrubbed, boiled for 20 minutes to 
 the pound; served in slices with a garnish of 
 fresh lima beans in brown sauce. 
 
 ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE— The 
 ham prepared, then steamed two-thirds of its 
 cooking time, taken up and skinned, placed in 
 baking pan in medium oven, baked and basted 
 till done; but five minutes before taking up, 
 sprinkle with sugar to nicely glaze it; serve with 
 champagne sauce at sides. 
 
 ROAST STUFFED HAM— The ham prepared, 
 then boned, the bone holes filled with pork 
 forcemeat, drawn together and tied with string 
 then sewn in a cloth, steamed two-thirds of its 
 cooking time, then finished in medium oven 
 after removing cloth and skin; served with cel- 
 ery sauce or sauce flavored with celery salt. 
 
 BRAISED HAM WITH VEGETABLES— Pre- 
 pared, boned and stuffed as in the preceding, 
 tied in a cloth and boiled till within half an hour 
 of its cooking time, then taken up, cloth and 
 skin removed, placed in a brazier with a pint of 
 Madeira wine, rapidly braised and basted till 
 done and the wine reduced, taken up, Espag- 
 nole sauce added to the braise with a little cur- 
 rent jelly, boiled up, strained and skimmed; 
 the ham served in slices with the sauce over or 
 under, garnished with glazed root vegetables. 
 
 CROQUETTES OF HAM WITH GREEN 
 PEAS — Cold cooked ham finely cut two-thirds, 
 mixed with one-third of fresh mashed potatoes 
 and a few egg yolks, seasoned with nutmeg and 
 pepper, rolled into the desired shape, breaded, 
 fried; served surrounded with green peas in 
 Veloute sauce. 
 
 MINCED HAM WITH EGG— Cold ham trim- 
 mings minced, mixed with a seasoning of 
 minced and fried shallots, parsley, cayenne 
 and a little horseradish mustard, moistened 
 with a little sauce or gravy, thoroughly heated; 
 served heaped high on buttered toast, with a 
 poached egg on top, or garnished with slices of 
 hot hard boiled eggs. Creamed young carrots, 
 Parisienne vegetables, Jardiniere, and aspara- 
 gus tips also make a desirable garnish for this 
 dish. 
 
 HAMBURGER— Or Hamburg steaks are minced 
 beef with a little onion, a suspicion of garlic, 
 salt and pepper seasoning, fried or broiled, and 
 served either plain or with any of the sauces 
 appropriate to steaks. 
 
 TOMATOED HAMBURGER— The same as 
 above but freely mixed with raw tomato meat 
 freed from skin and seeds; should be served 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 HARE — Practically the dark fleshed rabbit which 
 attains a larger size lhan the common or white 
 fleshed one, and which is also of superior fla- 
 vor. We commonly call it the "Jack rabbit". 
 The steward should watch to buy young ones 
 only; an old or soft limp one is beyond the 
 chef's ingenuity to prepare for table service 
 and give the patronage satisfaction; the young 
 ones are EASILY told by tearing the ears with 
 the thumb and finger, IF THEY DO NOT 
 TEAR EASILY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. 
 
 STUFFED SADDLE OF HARE WITH JELLY 
 —The saddle from the shoulders to the legs, 
 cut in halves across making two portions, boned, 
 stuffed with game or other forcemeat, tied 
 round with twine, arranged in baking pan, each 
 piece covered with a slice of fat pork, roasted 
 and basted till done, taken up, little brown 
 sauce added to the pan, boiled up, strained and 
 skimmed, then poured to the hare; served with 
 red currant jelly and garnished with fancy 
 croutons. 
 
 FILLETS OF HARE, POIVRADE SAUCE— 
 The legs and saddles marinaded for two hours 
 in a little white wine with slices of carrot and 
 onion, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the whole then 
 placed in a sautoir with a little fat pork, lid 
 put on, placed in hot oven, roasted and basted 
 till done, about 45 minutes, taken up, poivrade 
 sauce added to the residue, boiled up, strained 
 and skimmed; served with the fillets, garnished 
 with croutons. 
 
 BRAISED HARE WITH GAMECRO- 
 QUETTES--The legs and saddles prepared as 
 in the preceding, the fore quarters of the hare 
 used to make the croquettes; served, the fillets 
 on a fancy bed of mashed potatoes, the sauce 
 around, garnished with the croquettes. 
 
 CIVET OF HARE, HUNTER'S STYLE — The 
 shoulders are the best for this dish, slices of 
 bacon blanched, then cut into even sized small 
 pieces and fried, the hare rolled in flour and 
 fried lightly in the bacon fat, both then put into a 
 sautoir; to the remaining fat flour is added to 
 form a roux, moistened with stock and red 
 wine, boiled up, skimmed, then strained over 
 the meat, to which is added a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, parsley, onions, salt, pepper and a few 
 whole cloves, simmered till done, hare and 
 bacon then taken up into the serving pan, the 
 sauce further thickened with the liver made in- 
 to a paste, and the blood, (it must not be boiled 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
 
 95 
 
 after the blood is in) then strained over the 
 meat; served, garnished with fried button 
 mushrooms and small onions that have been 
 blanched, then fried. 
 
 FILLETS OF HARE, SAUTES— The legs and 
 saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, or 
 bacon fat, taken up into a sautoir, moistened 
 with Bourgignotte sauce, simmered till tender; 
 served garnished with croutons and slices of 
 truffles on the hare. 
 
 FRIED FILLETS OF HARE— The legs and 
 saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, taken 
 up into a sautoir, moistened with game gravy, 
 simmered a little while; served garnished with 
 small poached quenelles made from the fore- 
 quarters. 
 
 LARDED SADDLES OF HARE— The saddles 
 boned and trimmed, tied into shape with twine, 
 larded with seasoned strips of pork, rolled in 
 buttered paper, roasted till done, taken up, 
 paper removed, rolled in game glaze; served on 
 fancy shaped toast with Poivrade sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 JUGGED HARE— The hare cut into fillets and 
 boned, the bones and head pounded, then 
 boiled with vegetables in stock and red wine, 
 the fillets lightly fried in bacon fat; stone crock 
 lined with bacon, the fillets put in, the bone 
 liquor thickened, strained over the meat, baked 
 slowly till tender (about three hours); when 
 done, grease skimmed off; served. It may also 
 be made in individual dishes and served in the 
 one it was baked in. 
 
 FILLETS OF HARE, TOMATO SAUCE— The 
 legs and saddles larded and braised; when 
 done, the braise strained and skimmed, added 
 to a rich tomato sauce; served with the meat, 
 garnished with croutons. 
 
 CUTLETS OF HARE, PIQUANTE SAUCE— 
 The legs fried in butter, then simmered in 
 game gravy till tender, taken up and cooled, 
 then breaded and fried, Piquante sauce made 
 from the gravy they were simmered in; served 
 with the cutlets, garnished with slices of stoned 
 olives. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH FINE HERBS 
 — Fillets of hare cut into scallops, flattened, 
 trimmed, sauteed in clear butter, taken up into 
 a fines-herbes sauce to which is added button 
 mushrooms, simmered till done; served piled 
 high in centre of dish, garnished with small 
 cone shaped croquettes made from the inferior 
 parts. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH TONGUE, 
 
 SAUCE PERIGUEUX— Prepared and sauteed 
 as in the preceding recipe, taken up into a p£ri- 
 gueux sauce; served piled high in centre of 
 dish with circles of tongue overlapping each 
 other around the base, garnished with small 
 croquettes as in the preceding. 
 
 HERRING — The Lake Superior herring is the 
 best for filleting, as its fillets are boneless; the 
 fresh water herring of the lower lakes is not so! 
 The blue backs or sea herrings are packed into 
 barrels and shipped all over the States when in 
 season, which is a very short one. 
 
 BOILED FRESH HERRING, SHRIMP 
 SAUCE — Prepare by cutting off the head and 
 fins, then scale, draw, wash and score the sides, 
 put into boiling salted water and simmer for 15 
 minutes, take up, drain; serve with shrimp 
 sauce. 
 
 BROILED FRESH HERRING, MUSTARD 
 SAUCE — Prepared herrings marinaded for an 
 hour in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 taken up, broiled; serve with a good anchovy 
 sauce finished with mustard and lemon juice. 
 
 FRIED FRESH HERRINGS, MUSTARD 
 BUTTER — Prepared herrings seasoned, rolled 
 in flour, fried in clarified butter, served spread 
 with melted butter mixed with mustard, garn- 
 ished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 BOILED FRESH HERRINGS, CREAM 
 SAUCE — Prepared herrings boiled in salted 
 water slowly for 15 minutes, taken up, drained; 
 served with cream sauce poured over. 
 
 BAKED FRESH HERRINGS, FENNEL 
 SAUCE — Prepared herrings arranged in baking 
 pan with a few bay leaves, moisten slightly 
 with equal parts of fish broth and vinegar, 
 baked and basted till done, taken up; served 
 with a spoonful of the liquor over them, fennel 
 sauce at the sides. 
 
 BAKED STUFFED HERRING— Prepared her- 
 rings filleted and boned; spread with fish force- 
 meat, the two sides then again put together as 
 if the fish was sandwiched with farce, arranged 
 in buttered baking pan, baked and basted; 
 served with a Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 
 
 CURRIED FRESH HERRINGS, WITH EGGS 
 — Boneless sides of herrings sauteed in clarified 
 butter, taken up into a curry sauce made from 
 fish broth, simmered a few minutes, taken up, 
 coated with sauce; served on a long strip of 
 toast, garnished with slices of hot hard boiled 
 eggs. (Good dish for Fridays). 
 
 BONED FRESH HERRING ON TOAST— 
 Split, boned, sprinkled with pepper, salt, 
 thyme, rolled from tail to head, tied with twine 
 or tape, baked in court-bouillon with a dash of 
 tarragon vinegar; served on circles of toast with 
 lemon parsley sauce. 
 
 SOUSED HERRINGS— Scale and draw the fish, 
 cut off the heads, wash and drain, arrange in 
 porcelain lined baking pans, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, ground allspice, a few bay leaves 
 and shallots, moisten to two-thirds of their 
 height with white wine vinegar, cover with 
 another pan, place in oven and bake very slowly 
 for an hour; served cold, wiped dry, garnished 
 with watercress. 
 
9 6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 HICKORY— Name of one of the common nuts, 
 also called Pecans; used in cake making, decor- 
 ating, flavoring, etc. 
 HOE CAKES-Name of a Southern pancake made 
 
 of ground maize, salt and water. 
 HOT POT OR HOTCH POTCH— A soup stew 
 made and baked in a pot as follows: take a 
 large earthern crock, into it put four lbs. of 
 lean beef trimmings cut into inch pieces, one 
 lb. of small balls of pork sausage meat, one- 
 half a cupful of sliced onions, one cupful each 
 of sliced and peeled cucumbers, carrots and 
 asparagus points, one pint each of green peas 
 and skinned tomatoes, a handful of washed 
 rice, one cupful of chopped green peppers and 
 a small heart of cabbage shredded, season with 
 salt and pepper (NO SPICES), add four gal- 
 lons of cold water, place on the crock cover, 
 put in a moderate oven at 6 a. m. and it will be 
 ready for 12 o'clock dinner. 
 Another hot pot is made with scrags of mutton 
 instead of the beef and pork, substituting leeks 
 and barley for the peppers and rice. 
 HOMINY — Is hulled maize, marketed in differ- 
 ent grades as to size; the large is generally 
 known as "hulled corn" is boiled like rice and 
 served with milk; or boiled very soft, turned 
 out into a buttered pan, when cold, cut into 
 strips rolled in flour (never bread it), fried a 
 delicate brown iand served either as a garnish, 
 or for breakfast with maple syrup. When 
 boiling hominy which is to be fried, always add 
 towards the finish, some flour, as that will hold 
 it together and stop it from breaking and spit- 
 ting when being fried. 
 BOILED HOMINY— A breakfast cereal: fine 
 hominy soaked overnight, boiled for two hours 
 in a farina kettle; served with cream and sugar. 
 HOMINY CROQUETTES— The preceding when 
 boiled mixed with a little grated cheese and 
 flour, beaten egg yolks, salt and red pepper, 
 poured into buttered pan, when cold, made in- 
 to form, breaded and fried. 
 HORSERADISH— Name of a pungent root, 
 grated fine and used as a table condiment, and 
 in flavoring sauces; as a condiment is best as 
 follows: One pint of grated horseradish, one- 
 half a pint of white wine vinegar, salt, little 
 sugar, mix and use. 
 HORSERADISH BUTTER — Equal parts of 
 grated horseradish and butter well pounded to- 
 gether with a seasoning of salt and lemon juice, 
 then rubbed through a fine sieve; served spread 
 over broiled steaks. 
 ICES — These include sherbets, cream ices, water 
 ices, etc., in infinite varieties. 
 
 CUP ICES— Small fluted cups or glasses filled 
 with fruit syrups and placed in a large tub or 
 tray, with pounded ice and salt around them; 
 when frozen a sufficient thickness, the remain- 
 
 ing liquor poured out, the cups then replaced 
 so as to solidify the part where the liquid re- 
 mained, the cups then turned out, filled with 
 any form of ice different in color to the cup. 
 ORANGE ICES— Oranges with a slice cut to 
 form a lid, the interior and pith scooped out, 
 the skins then soaked in water for an hour, 
 then dried and filled with orange water ice 
 mixed with French fruits glaces that have been 
 soaked in a liqueur; they are then frozen and 
 served. 
 IMPERIAL ICES — Ice cups made as above, 
 then filled with strawberry water ice flavored 
 with champagne— Pineapple Water Ice flavored 
 with Santa Cruz rum — Cherry Water Ice fla- 
 ored with Noyeaux, etc. 
 FANCY WATER ICES— Freeze solidly all forms 
 of water ices in equal quantities, such as Nut 
 Cream Ice, Madeira Ice, Claret Ice, Pistachio 
 Cream, Raspberry and Strawberry Water Ices, 
 Curacoa Cream Ice, Orange and Lemon Ices, 
 Cherry Water Ice, Caramel Cream Ice, etc., 
 then fill individual forms in shapes of fruit and 
 flowers, close the molds, pack, freeze, turn out 
 and serve. 
 
 The same to be done with all kinds of ice 
 creams such as Vanilla, Cherry, Chocolate, 
 Tea, Coffee, Currant, Grape, Chestnut, Almond, 
 Pistachio, Noyeaux, filled into individual forms 
 of fruit and flowers, vegetables, etc , the idea 
 being to have varigated colors, flavors and 
 shapes. 
 ICED SNOWBALLS— Rice boiled very tender, 
 in water, sweetened, flavored with orange or 
 lemon juice, frozen in the shape of balls, then 
 taken out, rolled in whipped cream, served if 
 possible in a shallow green glass dish, the top 
 of the ball sparingly spotted with green pista- 
 chio gratings. 
 NEAPOLITAN BRICKS— Brick molds filled in 
 three colors of ice cream or one of them may 
 be water ice, so as when cut to show three dis- 
 tinct layers, frozen solid, turned out, cut in 
 slices. 
 ICED FROTHS — Fancy shaped glasses filled 
 with whipped cream piled high, sweetened, 
 frozen; served in the same glasses. 
 IRISH MOSS — An edible seaweed, gelatinous, 
 reddish brown in color, good for those with 
 delicate digestions in blanc-mange, creams, 
 flawns, farinas, etc. 
 IRISH STEW— The neck chops of mutton that 
 ar^ under the shoulder, trimmed, gristle re- 
 moved, boiled with the shanks from the legs 
 and shoulders and other mutton trimmings till 
 half done, taken up and stewed with potatoes 
 and onions till tender in the strained and 
 skimmed stock from the boiling, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, lightly thickened; served sprink- 
 led with chopped parsley. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ISINGLASS— A form of gelatine prepared from 
 the swim bladder of the sturgeon; more expen- 
 sive than gelatine without any appreciable bet- 
 ter results. 
 
 JARDINIERE— Name applied to a garnish of 
 small cut mixed vegetables, such as carrots, 
 turnips, asparagus tips, cauliflower, stringless 
 beans and some green peas, cooked in seasoned 
 broth, drained; served plain or tossed with half 
 glaze or meat gravy. 
 
 JELLY — A clarified, gelatinous combination of 
 sugar, water, spices and colorings, flavored 
 with wine, fruit juices, etc.; also made from 
 calf's feet (see calf). To make the stock jelly 
 use 2 qts. of water or fruit juices, 3 ozs. of 
 dissolved gelatine, the grated rind and juice of 
 4 lemons, 1 lb. of granulated sugar, the broken 
 whites and shells of 6 eggs, mix well, bring to 
 the simmer; after it coagulates, allow the scum 
 to assume a grey color, so as to perfectly clar- 
 ify, then strain through a flannel bag three 
 times and use for the following: 
 
 FRUIT JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with sherry 
 wine, fancy molds filled an inch deep, allowed 
 to set, then fruit arranged as a border; if cur- 
 rants or grapes arranged in bunches; molds 
 then gradually filled with limpid jelly and set. 
 
 WEST INDIAN JELLY— Stock jelly strongly 
 flavored with Jamaica rum, fancy molds filled 
 an inch deep and allowed to set, slices of 
 bananas and sections of seeded oranges then 
 arranged as a border, jellied and set, the mold 
 then filled with limpid jelly, set, turned out and 
 served. 
 
 RIBBON JELLY— Stock jelly in three parts, one 
 colored with strawberry juice, one with cara- 
 mel and flavored with brandy, the third 
 whipped to a froth on ice, and flavored with 
 benedictine, arranged in molds with six layers, 
 each to be set before the other is put in, com- 
 mence with the red, then the whipped, and 
 lastly the caramel. These three colors and 
 flavors look well in three triangles as follows: 
 hold the mold so that you form a triangle shape 
 of red jelly, set that, then reverse the side and 
 form a triangle with the caramel, that leaves a 
 wedge shape from the tip to the base, then fill 
 up with the whipped jelly. 
 
 PINEAPPLE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with 
 noyeaux, the mold filled with iL and pieces of 
 pineapple. 
 
 STRAWBERRY JELLY— Stock jelly flavored 
 with strawberry juice, the mold filled with it 
 and whole strawberries. 
 
 RASPBERRY JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
 red raspberry juice, the mold filled with it and 
 whole raspberries. 
 
 BLACKBERRY JELLY— For this use a border 
 mold, and when turned out, fill the centre with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 97 
 
 APRICOT JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
 
 maraschino, the mold filled with it and halves 
 
 of peeled apricots. 
 MACEDOINE JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
 
 maraschino, the mold filled with it and small 
 
 whole fruits. 
 RUSSIAN JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
 
 liqueur, then whipped to a Loth on ice, filled 
 
 into molds and set. 
 PISTACHIO JELLY— Stock jelly flavored with 
 
 Dantzic brandy, mold filled half an inch deep, 
 
 shredded pistachios then strewn in, the mold 
 
 then filled in with layers of jelly strewn with 
 
 pistachios. 
 ORANGE JELLY— When making the stock jelly 
 
 add the grated rinds of oranges and a little 
 
 cochineal to give it the orange tint; when done 
 
 and strained, fill into molds. 
 LEMON JELLY — Made the same as orange jelly 
 
 except use grated lemon rinds, and omit the 
 
 cochineal. 
 JULIENNE — Name applied to a garnish of 
 
 shredded root vegetables, also to shredded 
 
 potatoes. 
 JUNIPER — Name of a blue berry used for flav- 
 oring gin; also adds a nice flavor to corned 
 
 meat when a muslin bagful of crushed berries 
 
 is added to the brine. 
 KALE — A vegetable in appearance like endive, 
 
 and in taste like green cabbage, cooked the 
 
 same as spinach. 
 
 KHULASH OR GOULASH— Name of a ragout 
 much esteemed by the Hungarians; made by 
 taking pieces of beef and sauteeing them with 
 onions in butter, seasoning with salt and pap- 
 rika, moistened with brown sauce, simmered 
 till tender; served garnished with Hollandaise 
 or Parisienne potatoes. 
 
 KIDNEYS — Recipes will be found under the 
 name of the animal to which it belongs. 
 
 KINGFISH — Name of a Southern fish, exquisite 
 in flavor, and of a nice size for restaurant and 
 club service. 
 
 BOILED KINGFISH, SAUCE NORMANDE— 
 The fish prepared, boiled in salted water with 
 a dash of vinegar, when done, drained; served 
 with Normande sauce, garnished with Hollan- 
 daise potatoes. 
 
 KINGFISH WITH FINE HERBS— Prepared 
 and trimmed, arranged in buttered baking pan, 
 baked and basted with butter; served with fines- 
 herbes sauce, garnished with Julienne potatoes. 
 
 BROILED KINGFISH, LEMON BUTTER— 
 Prepared and trimmed, split down the front, 
 laid open and the backbone removed, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, brushed 
 with butter, broiled and basted till done; served 
 spread with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished 
 with chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
 
 KINGFISH SAUTE, SAUCE COLBERT— 
 Boneless sides of the fish seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, rolled in flour, sauteed with butter 
 a delicate brown; served with Colbert sauce and 
 garnished with Colbert potatoes. 
 
 FRIED FILLETS OF KINGFISH, BREAD- 
 CRUMBED — Boneless sides of the fish sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, 
 dipped in beaten eggs, then breadcrumbs, fried; 
 served with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished 
 with lemon and parsley. 
 
 KIRSCHWASSER— Name of a liqueur made 
 from cherry juice; obtained by crushing the 
 fruit, stones and kernels, then fermenting; used 
 as a flavoring to sherbets, cakes, icings, ices 
 and confectionery. 
 
 KOHL-RABI — Name of the cabbage turnip; may 
 be peeled, boiled, mashed and seasoned same 
 as turnip; or, as is best, peeled, cut in quart- 
 ers, boiled in salted water till done, drained, 
 then simmered in butter sauce a few minutes 
 before serving. 
 
 KOUMISS — A milk preparation tasting like but- 
 termilk, used as a health beverage; made by 
 filling quart champagne bottles up to the neck 
 with pure milk to which is added a syrup made 
 by dissolving two tablespoonfuls of white 
 sugar in one of water, also X OI a 2-cent cake 
 of yeast; corked and tied securely, shaken well, 
 stood for six hours in a warm room, then cooled 
 overnight by placing in ice box. 
 
 KROMESKIES— Name applied to any form of 
 croquette mixture made into form of corks, 
 finger lengths, wrapped in a thin shaving of 
 cold boiled bacon, dipped in batter and fried. 
 
 KUMMEL — Name of a liqueur prepared from 
 cumin and caraway seeds in sweetened spirit. 
 
 ROAST LAMB — Any joint roasted a quarter of 
 an hour to each pound in weight in a medium 
 oven; must be frequently basted; about 10 
 minutes before taking up, should be dredged 
 with flour and basted with melted butter, so as 
 to take on a delicate color; served either with 
 mint sauce or currant jelly in separate dishes, 
 with a spoonful of gravy under the meat. 
 
 BRAISED LAMB— The shoulder lifted off and 
 boned, leaving the shank for a handle, lay it 
 out flat, season with salt and pepper, spread 
 with forcemeat, roll up, tie in neat shape, 
 braise it with vegetables; served with the 
 strained and skimmed braise, or with a garnish 
 of turned vegetables — green peas, glazed col- 
 umns of turnips, stuffed egg plant and okras, 
 Brussels sprouts, Milanaise garnish, asparagus, 
 larded lamb's sweetbreads, etc. 
 
 BOILED LAMB— The legs simmered in white 
 stock with a bunch of sweet herbs till done, 
 allowing 12 minutes to the pound; served with 
 cream sauce, caper sauce, spinach puree, sorrel 
 puree, haricots verts, shred wax or stringless 
 beans, macedoine of vegetables, asparagus tips. 
 
 SAUTE OF LAMB— The shoulder boned and 
 cut into neat pieces, sauteed with minced 
 onions and a flavoring of garlic in butter, raw 
 skinned tomatoes cut in halves, and lightly 
 fried with butter, taken up and added to the 
 lamb, the whole then cooked for 20 minutes; 
 served garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 BLANQUETTE OF LAMB— The breast or 
 boned shoulder cut in neat pieces, seasoned with 
 salt and white pepper, rolled in flour, quickly 
 without coloring, saute them with butter and a 
 few minced shallots, take up into a sautoir, make 
 a cream sauce in the butter, etc., they were 
 sauteed in, strain over the lamb, simmer till 
 done, adding some button mushrooms and a little 
 chopped parsley; serve in a casserole, or with a 
 border of fancy mashed potatoes. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF LAMB — Breasts of lamb 
 simmered in seasoned white stock till the bones 
 are easily removed (keeping the little rib bones) 
 press the breasts ; when cold, trim and cut 
 into cutlet shapes, point the rib bones and in- 
 sert into the pieces of lamb, bread and fry one- 
 half of them, roll in flour and saute with butter 
 the other half; served at the side of a croustade 
 filled with garnish, and a sauce at the sides; 
 the sauteed one should be brushed with light 
 colored glaze; the croustade may be filled with 
 Toulouse garnish, sauteed lamb fries, mace- 
 doine of vegetables, green peas, asparagus tips, 
 button mushrooms, diced lamb sweetbreads or 
 brains, etc. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF LAMB— Breast of lamb cut 
 into neat pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 rolled in flour, sauteed lightly with butter, 
 taken up into a sautoir, moistened with thin 
 white sauce, simmered till done, skimmed, 
 sauce then thickened with a liaison of egg 
 yolks and cream, seasoned with nutmeg and 
 cayenne; served with a garnish of green peas, 
 inverted molds of dry boiled rice, macedoine of 
 vegetables. 
 
 CURRIED LAMB— Cold roast lamb cut into 
 neat pieces with the skin removed; curry sauce 
 made from lamb or mutton stock, simmered in 
 it till thoroughly heated; served within a bor- 
 der of dry boiled rice. 
 
 CURRIED LAMB— Rack of lamb cut into chops, 
 trimmed, sauteed with minced shallots, taken 
 up into a sautoir, sprinkled with flour and 
 curry powder, seasoned with salt, lemon juice 
 and a dash of cayenne, moistened with white 
 stock, simmered with a sprig of green mint till 
 done, mint then removed; served within a bor- 
 der of rice, potatoes, green peas, button mush- 
 rooms, etc. 
 
 STEWED LAMB— Scrag of lamb and the chops 
 from under the shoulder cut in neat pieces, 
 simmered in white stock till done, sauce made 
 of the broth; served with a sprinkling of pars- 
 ley and a garnish of vegetables. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 99 
 
 CUTLETS OF LAMB— The rack of lamb cut 
 into chops and trimmed, then either breaded 
 after seasoning, sauteed; spread on one side 
 after lightly broiling with forcemeat orD'Uxel- 
 les dressing, then finished in oven; served with 
 a garnish of green peas, or any of the follow- 
 ing: asparagus points, macedoine, button mush- 
 rooms in sauce, Maitre D'Hotel butter, print- 
 aniere, Villeroi sauce, Godard garnish, slices 
 of stuffed cucumber, Toulouse or Financiere 
 garnish, small new potatoes, puree of mint, 
 stuffed tomatoes, puree of peas and Bechamel 
 sauce, green peas and caper sauce, peas and 
 asparagus points in Bechamel, Julienne vege- 
 tables in Madeira sauce, saute 1 of small new 
 carrots cooked whole and seasoned with lemon 
 juice, sugar and chopped parsley, puree of peas 
 and the sauteed cutlets dipped in glaze, the 
 cutlets larded, dipped in Perigord sauce, then 
 breaded and fried; served with truffle sauce, 
 Italian style i. e. sauteed in butter just enough 
 to set them, dipped in Italian sauce thickened 
 with Parmesan cheese, when cooled, breaded 
 and fried; served with Italian sauce; they may 
 also be first set by lightly sauteeing, then dip- 
 ping into appropriate lamb sauces, cooling, 
 breading, frying and serving with a sauce the 
 same as they were coated with. 
 EMINCE OF LAMB— Cold leg or shoulder of 
 lamb cut in thin slices, then again into circles 
 with a large column cutter, reheated with but- 
 ter over a quick fire, seasoned with salt, pep- 
 per and powdered mint, then drained; into the 
 butter is then placed some minced shallots; 
 when lightly browned, flour added to form a 
 roux, moistened with mutton broth, seasoned 
 with salt, nutmeg, pepper, herbs and a dash of 
 Worcestershire sauce, boiled five minutes, then 
 strained over the lamb, which simmer for fif- 
 teen minutes; served on toast. 
 HASHED LAMB WITH POACHED EGG— 
 Roast lamb trimmings chopped fine and sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and finely chopped 
 green mint, moistened with thickened roast 
 lamb gravy, fetched to the simmering point; 
 served on a slice of toast, garnished with tri- 
 angles of buttered toast on which is a trimmed 
 poached egg. 
 RAGOUT OF LAMB— The breast, chops under 
 the shoulder, and the scrag, neatly cut and 
 trimmed, fried a light color with butter, taken 
 up, very small whole onions then fried in the 
 butter, taken up and added to the lamb, flour 
 then added to the butter to form a roux, moist- 
 tened with white stock, seasoned with salt, pep- 
 per, pot herbs and a crushed clove of garlic, 
 boiled, skimmed, strained over the lamb and 
 onions, simmer till done; served with a border 
 of fancy vegetables, macedoine, mushroom 
 sautes, green peas, flageolets, new lima beans, 
 Parisienne potatoes, small stuffed tomatoes, etc. 
 
 STEWED LAMB, GARNISHED— Preferably 
 use the centre cuts of the breasts, boil them 
 with a bunch of green mint in seasoned white 
 stock; when done, taken up and the bones re 
 moved, placed in a colander and washed with 
 hot water to remove any scum; white sauce 
 made from the broth, seasoned with salt, red 
 pepper, lemon juice and nutmeg; when done, 
 strained over the washed lamb in a sautoir, 
 simmer, skim; serve sprinkled with parsley 
 dust and garnished with small new potatoes of 
 even size, green peas, asparagus points, mush- 
 rooms sautes, small stuffed tomatoes, small rice 
 timbales, forcemeat balls, a jardiniere of vege- 
 tables, mixed haricots, potato croquettes, 
 French beans, etc. 
 
 LAMB'S FRIES— The testicles blanched and 
 trimmed, cut in halves, skinned, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, rolled in 
 flour, then breaded and fried; served with 
 tomato, Bearnaise, remoulade and trianon 
 sauces, or on a bed of mashed potatoes and 
 flanked with peas, flageolets, etc. May also be 
 broiled and served on toast with Maitre 
 D'Hotel butter, tartar or Bearnaise sauces, also 
 fricasseed and served with a garnish suitable 
 to sweetbreads. 
 
 SCALLOPS OF LAMB WITH RICE— Take 
 cold lamb and cut into pieces the size of half 
 dollars, simmer them in Veloute sauce seas- 
 oned with a little nutmeg. To serve: arrange 
 some hot boiled rice grains around the edge of 
 a platter, place the lamb in the centre and 
 sprinkle with parsley dust, garnish the rice 
 with scallops of red tongue reheated with a lit- 
 tle butter. 
 
 LAMB SWEETBREADS IN CASES— Cooked 
 lamb sweetbreads cut in dice two-thirds, diced 
 mushrooms one-third, mixed, simmered in 
 thick Veloute sauce, filled into buttered paper 
 cases or croustades, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, 
 browned in a quick oven and served. 
 
 LASAGNES — Name of an Italian paste in the 
 form of yellow ribbon, often used as noodles in 
 soups, garnishes, etc. 
 
 LEEK — A plant of the onion species having a 
 non-bulbous root and flat broad leaves; in fla- 
 vor a cross between the onion and garlic; very 
 valuable as a soup stock flavoring. 
 
 BOILED LEEKS— Young leeks trimmed and 
 washed, tied in small bundles like asparagus, 
 cooked till tender in boiling salted water, taken 
 up and drained; served on toast with melted 
 butter, Bechamel sauce or meat gravy. 
 
 LEEK SOUP, SCOTCH STYLE-Leeks trimmed 
 and washed, cut into pieces an inch and a half 
 long, boiled in equal parts of chicken broth and 
 beef stock, oatmeal added, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, simmered till done, skimmed, fin- 
 ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. 
 
 L ofC. 
 
LEMONS— This country consumes in a year 
 about 500,000,000 lemons, or about six and a 
 half lemons for each man, woman and child. 
 The California lemons are very good ones, and 
 only experts can tell them from the Mediter- 
 ranean crop. For culinary purposes the lemons 
 of Sicily, i. e. from Messina and Palermo, are 
 to be preferred as they possess a much better 
 flavor. A box of lemons averages about 300 
 each. From 1,500,000 to 2,000,000 boxes are 
 sold in a year here. It is predicted that the 
 California crop will soon average 1,000,000 
 boxes. It will be interesting to note whether 
 they will drive out any or all of the foreign 
 lemons. They are used by the catering frater- 
 nity in large quantities for flavoring and gar- 
 nishing soups, sauces, salads, meats, fish, pies, 
 puddings, cakes, jellies, extracts, confectionery, 
 mixing with drinks, ices, sorbets, creams, etc. 
 
 LEMON MARMALADE— Three dozen lemons, 
 their equal weight in granulated sugar, lemons 
 halved and their juice extracted and strained, 
 the rinds boiled till tender in plenty of water, 
 then drained, pith scooped out, the skins then 
 finely shred, the juice and sugar then boiled to 
 a syrup, after which is added the shredded 
 skins, boiling continued till reduced to the 
 marmalade consistency; used for steamed roly- 
 poly puddings, tartlettes, layer cakes, etc., etc. 
 
 LEMON MINCEMEAT— Useful for mince pies 
 in temperance hotels and other temperance 
 functions. Made of 2 lbs. of lemons, 4 lbs. of 
 sour apples, 2 lbs. of beef suet, 4 lbs. of cur- 
 rants, 2 lbs. granulated sugar, l / z lb. each of 
 candied citron and lemon peel, t% ozs. grated 
 nutmeg, y 2 oz. of mace. The apples cored and 
 minced, the candied peels finely shred, the 
 suet finely chopped, the currants washed, 
 picked and drained, the lemons pared and the 
 juice extracted, the rinds boiled tender, then 
 minced, the whole then thoroughly mixed, al- 
 lowed to stand a week before using; brandy and 
 port wine may be added if used for other than 
 temperance people. 
 
 LEMON CREAM— Two quarts of milk brought 
 to the boil with a pound and a half of sugar; 
 grated rinds of four lemons mixed with six 
 ounces of sifted flour, then made into a smooth 
 thickening with milk; when smooth, poured to 
 the boiling milk and stirred till creamy, then is 
 added three ounces of butter, juice of the lem- 
 ons and the yolks of 12 beaten eggs, continue 
 stirring till of a custard consistency; then re- 
 move and use for filling puffs, eclairs, lemon 
 cream pies, tartlettes, spreading layer cakes, 
 etc. 
 
 LEMON SOUP — A rich cream of chicken soup 
 nicely flavored with the grated rinds and juice 
 of lemons. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE — Lemons with seeds removed 
 finely minced or passed through a mincing ma- 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 chine, enough of it worked into a V£loute* sauce 
 to give a pronounced flavor; used for boiled 
 capons, chickens, turkey and fish. 
 
 LEMON TRIFLE— Small glasses with a piece 
 of sponge cake at bottom, spread with lemon 
 marmalade, the glass then filled up high with 
 whipped cream that is sweetened and flavored 
 with nutmeg, and the grated rinds and juice of 
 lemons. 
 
 LEMON DUMPLINGS— 4 lbs of grated bread- 
 crumbs, 2 lbs. of finely chopped beef suet, 2 
 lbs. of powdered sugar, grated rinds and juice 
 of eight lemons; rinds, crumbs, suet and sugar 
 mixed together dry, the whole then bound with 
 the lemon juice mixed with 18 beaten yolks of 
 eggs; form into dumpling shapes, boil in a cloth, 
 or steam till done (steaming is best); serve with 
 a sweet lemon flavored cream sauce. 
 
 LENTILS— Name of a brownish red, flatted 
 small pea, cultivated on the European conti- 
 nent and Asia as a food; it is a most nourishing 
 article, containing about twice as much nourish- 
 ment as meat. 
 
 LENTIL SOUP— Lentils boiled till done in sea- 
 soned white stock lightly thickened with roux, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, tomato catsup; 
 served with croutons. 
 
 LENTIL SOUP— Lentils boiled till tender in 
 white stock, with leeks, celery, parsley and a 
 piece of salt pork; when done, pork removed, 
 the soup lightly thickened, then rubbed through 
 the tamis; served with croutons. 
 
 CREAM OF LENTILS— The preceding puree 
 mixed with an equal quantity of Veloute sauce; 
 served with croutons. 
 
 LETTUCE— One of the best of salad plants; 
 seen on our markets in three shapes, called the 
 cabbage lettuce, Cos lettuce and Romaine let- 
 tuce. 
 
 LETTUCE SALAD— Well washed, wiped and 
 shred lettuce leaves sprinkled and tossed with 
 French dressing. 
 
 LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD— Same as the 
 preceding, adding very finely shred spring 
 onions. 
 
 LETTUCE SALAD— Hearts of cabbage lettuces 
 washed and wiped dry, sprinkled with chopped 
 chives, chervil and tarragon leaves, then dashed 
 with a dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 
 
 LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD — Well 
 washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed with 
 French dressing, garnished with peeled and 
 sliced tomatoes having a drop of Ravigote 
 sauce on each. 
 
 LETTUCE AND TOMATO S A L A D— Well 
 washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed lightly 
 with Remoulade sauce, add minced capers, 
 garnish with sliced peeled tomatoes sprinkled 
 with French dressing. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 LETTUCE AND CUCUMBER SALAD— Well 
 washed, wiped and broken lettuce leaves tossed 
 and glistened with a dressing composed of 2 
 tablespoons of olive oil well beaten with 3 
 whole eggs, then add a dessert spoonful of rich 
 cream and one of tarragon vinegar; served 
 garnished with very thin slices of cucumber 
 sprinkled with French dressing. 
 
 BAKED STUFFED LETTUCE — Trimmed, 
 washed and drained lettuces, parboiled a few 
 minutes, the insides then filled with sausage 
 meat, the heads tied, arranged in a shallow 
 sautoir, moistened with white stock and Ma- 
 deira sauce, seasoned with salt and pepper, cov- 
 ered with buttered paper, placed in oven and 
 cooked till done, about 20 minutes; served with 
 the string removed and the sauce poured over. 
 
 LIMES — A small kind of lemon, used in the bars 
 for Rickeys and other drinks; served with 
 oysters in preference to lemons, also with veal 
 cutlets, fried soles, smelts and bass. AtMont- 
 serrat the limes are cut in halves, the juice ex- 
 tracted and bottled, then supplied to most shrps 
 at sea as a preventive of scurvy, British" ships 
 using it by law, so that an English ship is 
 known amongst sailors as a "Limejuicer." 
 
 LIVER — For the following recipes either sheep's, 
 lamb's, calf's, pig's or ox liver will do. 
 
 RAGOUT OF LIVER— Wash and dry a liver, 
 steam it till quite tender, then cut it in slices, 
 add it to a rich brown sauce or gravy, stew it 
 till thoroughly heated through ; served garnished 
 with slices of lemon and hard boiled eggs. 
 
 FRIED LIVER WITH ONIONS— Liver washed 
 and wiped dry, cut in slices, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon 
 fat; served with sliced onions that have been 
 fried, drained and lightly moistened with brown 
 sauce. 
 
 SAUTE OF LIVER— Thin slices of liver and 
 bacon, the bacon fried not crisp, the liver 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour 
 and lightly fried in the bacon fat, then taken 
 up and placed with the bacon in a sautoir; 
 lightly fry then a little minced onion in the 
 bacon fat, add flour, stir, moisten with stock, 
 boil up, skim, pour it to the liver and bacon, 
 simmer till done; served sprinkled with chopped 
 parsley, garnished with croutons. 
 
 LIVER AND SALT PORK— Same as the pre- 
 ceding, substituting salt pork for the bacon. 
 
 LIVER PUDDING— Liver and bacon cut in 
 squares, stewed in brown gravy, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, then filled into pudding molds 
 lined with paste, covered, cloth tied over, 
 boiled or steamed for an hour and a half; serve. 
 
 CURRIED LIVER WITH FORCEMEAT— 
 Equal quantities of udder and liver minced, 
 then pounded and rubbed through a sieve, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet herbs and a 
 
 little sifted breadcrumbs, add an egg or two; 
 when thoroughly mixed, form into balls, rolled 
 into sifted breadcrumbs, fried brown, then 
 simmered in curry sauce till done through; 
 served with the sauce and garnished with slices 
 of broiled liver dipped in Mailre d'Hotel sauce. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD— Lobster meat with lettuce 
 or celery and mayonnaise, arranged on a dish 
 and decorated with shapes of beet root, capers, 
 pickles, whites of eggs and quartered hard 
 boiled eggs. 
 
 MIROTON OF LOBSTER— Slices of lobster 
 meat, half of them dipped in cold white sauce, 
 the other half in a cold cardinal sauce, served 
 on a bed of shred lettuce with mayonnaise 
 down the centre. 
 
 MAYONNAISE OF LOBSTER-Lobsters (hens) 
 boiled in court-bouillon, when cold, the tail 
 and claw meat sliced into a dish, the creamy 
 part of the head with the coral mixed with yolks 
 of eggs, mustard, oil and lemon juice, then 
 worked to form a mayonnaise, when done, 
 mixed with the lobster meat; served garnished 
 with shred lettuce. 
 
 LOBSTER IN ASPIC CREAM— Also called 
 ' 'Mazarins of Lobster". Lobster meat in slices, 
 molds thinly lined with aspic and decorated 
 with coral, truffles and egg whites. Aspic 
 cream made by taking a pint of light colored 
 aspic jelly, melt it and place in a bowl sur- 
 rounded with broken ice, add to it a short half 
 cup of white wine vinegar, two tablespoonfuls 
 of granulated sugar, a level teaspoon of dry 
 mustard, two teaspoons of salt and a seasoning 
 of red pepper, beat with a whisk, and as soon 
 as it thickens add oil and vinegar alternately, a 
 little at a time till of a mayonnaise consistency, 
 finish with a dash of lemon juice; when ready, 
 add the lobster meat, fill into the decorated 
 molds, and when finally set, wipe the mold with 
 a hot cloth, turn out on the dish, decorate with 
 green stuff and serve. 
 
 LOBSTER CHEESE— Same as the preceding, 
 but the molds not decorated (larger molds); 
 when serving, the meat cut in slices like head 
 cheese. 
 
 DEVILLED LOBSTER— The lobster boiled, 
 cooled, split in halves, all meat taken from the 
 shells without breaking them, the inside of shell 
 then brushed with olive oil or butter. Fry some 
 minced shallots with the brown meat of the 
 claws in butter, add little white sauce, season 
 with salt, red pepper and Bengal chutney; when 
 thick, add the lobster meat cut in small squares, 
 then fill the shells, sprinkle with bread crumbs 
 and melted butter, brown off in a brisk oven 
 and serve garnished with cress. 
 
 SCALLOPED LOBSTER— Also called "Lobster 
 au gratin". Equal quantities of lobster meat 
 and button mushrooms cut in small squares, 
 
102 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 added to a reduced Bechamel sauce, with lob- 
 ster coral or lobster butter and a little glaze, 
 fill into lobster shells as in the preceding, finish 
 off and serve as above. 
 
 LOBSTER CROQUETTES— Lobster meat and 
 button mushrooms in equal quantities cut into 
 very small dice, measure them, and for each 
 pint, allow a pint of Veloute sauce; boil the 
 sauce till reduced one third, then work in some 
 lobster butter and a liaison of egg yolks and 
 cream, then add the lobster meat and mush- 
 rooms, stir thoroughly, turn out into a buttered 
 pan, cover with a sheet of oiled paper; when 
 cold and firm, shape into croquettes, bread, 
 fry; serve with Perigueux, Poivrade or tomato 
 sauces. 
 
 LOBSTER CUTLETS— Same as the preceding, 
 forming them into shape to imitate a mutton 
 chop, using the small claws to imitate bone 
 handle. 
 
 RISSOLES OF LOBSTER— Same preparation 
 as for croquettes, but instead of breading them, 
 they are rolled into paste and fried. 
 
 LOBSTER PATTIES— Lobster meat cut in dice, 
 mixed into a lobster sauce, patty shells filled 
 with it, top placed on; served on ornamented 
 dish paper. 
 
 BOUCHEES OF LOBSTER— Same as the pre- 
 ceding but smaller, (bouchee means mouthful). 
 
 STUFFED LOBSTER— The croquette prepara- 
 tion filled into lobster shells, covered with 
 sifted crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown 
 and served. 
 
 STEWED LOBSTER— Lobster meat simmered 
 in a flour and butter sauce, seasoned with vin- 
 egar, mustard and red pepper, finished with a 
 glass of sherry wine; served on very hot toast, 
 garnished with lemon slices. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER— Slices of lobster 
 meat from the tail, and very thin slices of par- 
 boiled bacon, arranged alternately on a skewer, 
 rolled in a mixture of melted butter, seasoned 
 with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg, broil, carefully turning them; served 
 on a slice of very hot toast, with a little Maitre 
 D'Hotel butter. 
 
 BROILED LIVE LOBSTER— At least that is 
 what it is called, but the lobster is dead im- 
 mediately the head is split, even though the 
 flesh may quiver. The lobster split, the un- 
 eatable parts removed, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, placed within a wire hinged broiler, 
 brushed with butter, broiled; served with 
 melted butter and lemons. 
 
 CURRIED LOBSTER— Lobster meat made hot 
 in a good curry sauce lightly flavored with 
 anchovy essence; served within a border of dry 
 boiled rice. 
 
 LOBSTER SANDWICH-Mash some cheese and 
 lobster coral, add mustard, pepper and salt to 
 
 taste, mix into a smooth paste with tomato 
 catsup, place between thin buttered bread, cut 
 on the bias and serve on a lettuce leaf. 
 
 LOBSTER TOAST— Minced lobster meat sea- 
 soned with salt and red pepper, then moistened 
 with rich cream, made thoroughly hot and 
 served on buttered toast. 
 
 LOBSTER, BORDELAISE— Lobster meat sau- 
 teed with a little minced onion, moistened with 
 equal quantities of Madeira and Chablis wines, 
 reduce to half glaze, then add equal parts of 
 Espagnole and tomato sauces, bring to the boil, 
 finish with chopped parsley and cayenne; serve 
 in chafing dish. 
 
 LOBSTER NEWBURG— Meat of two lobsters 
 cut in inch pieces with some sliced truffles, 
 saute in butter for five minutes, then add a half 
 cup of Madeira wine and reduce to one half; 
 beat a cupful of cream with five egg yolks, add 
 it to the lobster, shuffle about till thick; serve 
 in a chafing dish. 
 
 SALPICON OF LOBSTER— Diced lobster meat, 
 truffles and mushrooms added to a reduced 
 Bechamel sauce; served either in paper cases 
 or fancy croustades. 
 
 BAKED LOBSTER IN SHELL— Lobster meat 
 cut into very small dice, seasoned with salt, red 
 pepper, mustard, onion juice, Worcestershire 
 sauce, chopped parsley and Bechamel sauce, 
 filled into lobster shells, covered with bread- 
 crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown and 
 served. 
 
 LOBSTER WITH TOMATOES— Small pieces 
 of lobster in Bechamel sauce, small tomatoes 
 stuffed with it, placed inverted in patty pans, 
 steamed; served hot with lobster sauce or cold 
 with aspic jelly, or masked with aspic mayon- 
 naise. 
 
 LOBSTER OMELET— Lobster meat in lobster 
 sauce, enclosed within an omelet; served with 
 Aurora sauce down the sides. 
 
 ESCALLOPED LOBSTER— Lobster meat cut 
 in dice made hot in either Normande or Hollan- 
 daise sauces, filled into scallop shells or oval 
 dishes, strewn with breadcrumbs and melted 
 butter, browned off and served. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF LOBSTER— Lobster meat cut 
 in slices, made hot in a rich Veloute sauce, 
 finished with a liaison of egg yolks and a dash 
 of lemon juice; served garnished with strips of 
 buttered toast or toasted crackers. 
 
 LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE— Individual pies 
 for restaurants and clubs; blanched oysters and 
 lobster meat in equal quantities, a thick lobster 
 sauce thinned a little with the oyster liquor, 
 individual pie dishes with the lobster and 
 oysters, moistened with the sauce, strewn with 
 chopped parsley, covered with puff paste, egg 
 washed and baked, (A RATTLING GOOD 
 SELLING DISH). 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP— Equal parts of fish broth and 
 white stock thickened with roux, boiled up and 
 skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
 Harvey sauce, into the soup tureen place lob- 
 ster meat cut in dice together with the claws 
 and upper shell of the lobsters that have been 
 pounded and rubbed through a fine sieve, add 
 the strained soup with a glass of sherry wine; 
 serve with croutons. 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP, CREOLE STYLE— Court- 
 bouillon mixed with an equal quantity of Creole 
 sauce, boiled and skimmed, the soup tureen to 
 contain diced lobster meat, boiled rice, and a 
 little chopped green mint, add the soup and 
 serve. 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP, MARINER'S STYLE-Court- 
 bouillon seasoned with carrot, turnip, onion, 
 celery and anchovy essence, thickened with 
 corn starch, simmered till clear, soup tureen to 
 contain lobster meat, lobster butter, small 
 claws, small boiled onions, soup poured to it 
 with a little sherry wine and served. 
 
 LOBSTER MULLIGATAWNEY-Make amulli- 
 gatawney soup from court-bouillon, soup tureen 
 to contain lobster meat and a little dry boiled 
 rice, soup poured to it and served. 
 
 BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Meat of fresh boiled 
 lobsters cut in dice, the tough parts with the 
 shells and claws boiled for 20 minutes, the 
 coral dried in a slow oven, little rice boiled in 
 fish broth, make a thin Bechamel sauce from 
 fish broth, add the liquor from the shells, 
 then the rice and coral, rub the whole through 
 a tamis, bring to the boil again and skim, then 
 pour it to the diced lobster meat; serve with 
 lobster quenelles in each plate. 
 
 BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Pieces of ham, salt 
 pork, parsley, sweet herbs, onions, lobster 
 meat and shells fried together with butter, lit- 
 tle flour then added, moistened with fish broth, 
 boiled an hour, then rice added and boiled till 
 tender, the whole then rubbed through a tamis, 
 seasoned, finished with sherry wine; served 
 with croutons. 
 
 LOCUSTS — A curious sight in the market place 
 of FEZ is the daily arrival of wagon loads of 
 locusts. With the Moors who inhabit this part 
 of North Africa, locusts form a regular article 
 of food; they are eaten in almost every style, 
 pickled, salted, dried or smoked, but never raw. 
 The negroes on the northern coast of Africa 
 show a great partiality for locusts and eat from 
 200 to 300 at a sitting. They remove head, 
 wings and legs, and boil them for half an hour 
 in water, take out and drain, ssason with salt 
 and pepper, then fry with vinegar. 
 
 MACARONI— Name of a preparation of wheat 
 flour and water, that which is of home manu- 
 facture being equally as good in grades as the 
 imported. 
 
 103 
 
 MACARONI, ITALIAN S T Y L E —Macaroni 
 broken into three-inch lengths and put to boil 
 with a seasoning of salt and a pat or two of 
 butter; when done, turned into a colander and 
 drained dry; meantime heat some tomato sauce 
 and work into it a little butter and glaze. Into 
 a buttered pan place a layer of the macaroni, 
 moisten it with the sauce, then strew with 
 Parmesan cheese, renew this operation till pan 
 is full, strew the top plentifully with cheese, 
 bake for half an hour in medium oven and 
 serve hot. 
 
 MACARONI AND CHEESE (PLAIN)— Break 
 the macaroni and boil in salted water with a 
 pat of butter till done, then drain, place back 
 into the sautoir and add to it a cupful each of 
 melted butter, Parmesan cheese, grated Swiss 
 cheese, and cream, toss it well over a quick 
 fire; serve garnished with fancy croutons. 
 
 BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE— Also 
 called "macaroni au gratin"; the preceding 
 when prepared, turned into a buttered pan, 
 strewn with equal parts of grated cheese and 
 breadcrumbs, sprinkled with melted butter, 
 baked a delicate brown and served. 
 
 MACARONI (as the Monks like it)— Macaroni 
 broken, boiled and drained, then mixed with a 
 rich puree of pounded anchovies and mush- 
 rooms. 
 
 MACARONI AND CHEESE (FRENCH 
 STYLE) — Broken lengths of macaroni boiled 
 20 minutes, drained, turned into a buttered 
 pan; mix into each pound half a cup of melted 
 butter and a cupful of coarsely chopped cheese, 
 to this add a quart of liaison made of water, 4 
 eggs and a little flour, place in a medium oven 
 for ten minutes, then pour over all, without 
 stirring, a pint and half of Bechamel parsley 
 sauce, bake brown and serve. 
 
 MACARONI AND TOMATOES — Macaroni 
 broken, boiled and drained; returned to sau- 
 toir, and to each pound of macaroni add half a 
 pint each of minced cheese, brown sauce, and 
 roast meat gravy, also a pint of thick stewed 
 tomatoes; when thoroughly reheated it is ready 
 to serve; or it may be turned into a buttered 
 pan, sprinkled with cheese and simmered for 
 half an hour in a medium oven. 
 
 MACARONI AND OYSTERS, MILAN STYLE 
 — Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, placed 
 in layers in buttered pan, the top of each layer 
 covered with drained raw oysters, a sprinkling 
 of melted butter, pepper and salt; when full, 
 the whole moistened with a thin cream sauce, 
 baked till set. Cooked and served in individual 
 dishes this is a good seller in clubs and res- 
 taurants. 
 
 MACARONI, CREOLE STYLE— A pound of 
 macaroni broken, boiled and drained, one large 
 onion minced with two cloves of garlic and 
 fried in oil; when of a pale brown, add two 
 
104 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 minced red peppers and a quart of tomato 
 sauce, then add the macaroni, simmer and 
 serve. 
 
 MACARONI, GENOISE STYLE — Macaroni 
 broken, boiled and drained, then kept hot. 
 Equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces 
 mixed and fetched to the boil; served, sauce in 
 bottom of shallow dish, macaroni on it, this 
 then strewn with Parmesan cheese. 
 
 TIMBALES OF MACARONI— Macaroni boiled 
 and drained, then cut into inch lengths, sea- 
 soned with Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt; 
 to each pound of the macaroni is then added a 
 half pint each of sliced button mushrooms, 
 braised chicken livers and smoked tongue, a 
 truffle or two, the whole mixed and slightly 
 moistened with Italian sauce. Timbale molds 
 buttered, coated with cracker meal, filled with 
 the mixture, brushed with butter, baked brown, 
 turned out; served, a little Spanish sauce on 
 dish, timbale in centre, the top piled high with 
 Parmesan cheese. 
 
 MACARONI WITH LOBSTER BUTTER— 
 Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, a deep 
 pan buttered, layer of macaroni, on it is spread 
 lobster butter, that again strewn with Par- 
 mesan, then a little Bechamel sauce, repeat till 
 pan is full, then place in oven and thoroughly 
 heat without browning; served in portions 
 decorated with slices of lobster meat alternated 
 with slices of truffle. 
 
 BUTTERED MACARONI— Macaroni broken, 
 boiled and drained; while still hot, each por- 
 tion served by putting a spoonful of melted 
 butter in oval dish, then the macaroni, tossed 
 in the butter and strewn while tossing with 
 Parmesan cheese. 
 
 MACARONI WITH FISH FLAKES— Proceed 
 as in recipe given for macaroni and oysters; 
 substituting either flakes of boiled fresh cod- 
 fish, redsnapper, salmon, salmon trout, white- 
 fish or pike for the oysters. 
 
 MACARONI WITH LAMB KIDNEYS— Maca- 
 roni broken, boiled and drained; lamb kidneys 
 sliced and sauteed with butter; buttered pan, 
 layer of macaroni, on it, a layer of the kidneys, 
 moisten with tomato sauce, repeat till pan is 
 full, the top then covered with slices of hard 
 boiled eggs, these thickly strewn with Parme- 
 san cheese, placed in oven till of a delicate 
 brown, then served. 
 
 MACARONI WITH SPINACH PUREE— Mac- 
 aroni broken, boiled and drained; spinach well 
 washed, boiled, drained, rubbed through sieve, 
 moistened with rich roast veal gravy; buttered 
 pan, layer of macaroni, then spinach; strew 
 with Parmesan, repeat till full, then bake half 
 an hour in a medium oven, and serve. 
 
 TIMBALE OF MACARONI AND FORCE- 
 MEAT — Macaroni boiled in full lengths, 
 
 drained; buttered mold, macaroni coiled close 
 all round the inside, filled with a f orcemeat of 
 chicken, then steamed till firmly set, turned 
 out; served with white Italian sauce poured 
 over. 
 MACARONI WITH SAUSAGES — Macaroni 
 broken, boiled and drained; pork sausages 
 boiled, skinned and cut into slices; buttered 
 pan, layer of macaroni, then sausages, strewn 
 with grated cheese, repeat till full, then a rich 
 veal gravy poured over, baked half an hour in 
 a medium oven, then served. 
 MACARONI CROQUETTES— Macaroni boiled 
 and drained, cut in small pieces, returned to 
 sautoir, to which is then added grated ham and 
 tongue, minced mushrooms and truffles, Parm- 
 esan cheese and a little thick Veloute sauce; 
 reheat thoroughly, turn into a buttered pan 2 
 or 3 inches deep, cover with buttered paper and 
 allow to set firm; then stamp out with the larg- 
 est sized column cutter, the columns then 
 rolled in Parmesan cheese, then breaded, fried 
 and served with Trianon sauce composed of 
 equal parts of Bearnaise and reduced tomato 
 sauces, carefully mixed together. 
 MACARONI PUDDING— Macaroni broken, 
 boiled with sweetened milk, grated lemon rind 
 and a stick of cinnamon; when done drained, 
 the milk returned to the fire, brought to the 
 boil, thickened with a liaison of egg yolks, 
 cream and a little corn starch; when to cus- 
 tard thickness, removed, seasoned with nutmeg; 
 macaroni in deep buttered pan spread with 
 preserves or marmalade, the custard poured 
 over, baked and served. 
 MACARONI WITH HAM— Take cold ham trim- 
 mings, put through a mincing machine, use it 
 instead of cheese, and bake, au gratin. 
 MACARONI CREAMED WITH EGGS— Mac- 
 aroni broken, boiled and drained, then tossed 
 over a quick fire with butter; meantime make 
 some scrambled eggs with cream, equal the 
 amount of eggs with Parmesan cheese, add both 
 to the hot macaroni, keep hot and serve as 
 called, (do not let it boil). 
 MACARONI WITH TOMATO PUREE— Mac- 
 aroni broken, boiled and drained; tomato 
 puree thick, containing a little grated ham and 
 a slight flavor of garlic, layers of each strewn 
 with Parmesan in buttered pan till full, bake 
 and serve. 
 MACARONI SOUP— Macaroni broken, boiled 
 and drained, add to a rich beef broth, or in 
 tomato soup, or chicken broth, etc. When 
 turning the soup into the tureen on steam table, 
 place some Parmesan cheese in the bottom, or 
 else serve a butter chip full with each portion, 
 (club or restaurant service). 
 CREAMED MAC ARONI— Macaroni broken, 
 boiled and drained, returned to sautoir, moist- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 105 
 
 ened with V&oute sauce; served strewn with 
 Parmesan and garnished with puff paste crou- 
 tons (made in leaf shape from trimmings). 
 
 MACE — The inner shell that covers the nutmeg; 
 used in its blade form as a flavoring to soups 
 and sauces; in its ground or powdered form, 
 as a flavoring to sweet sauces, puddings, mince- 
 meats, cakes, etc. 
 
 MACEDOINE— A French term used to indicate 
 a mixture of fancy cut vegetables or fruits; the 
 former either plain or mixed with sauce is used 
 in soups or as a garnish, the latter generally in 
 sweet jellies. 
 
 MACKEREL — A fine salt water fish enjoyed by 
 most people; it should not be washed, wipe it 
 dry with a clean cloth, cut off the fillets, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, score the skin lightly, 
 squeeze a little lemon juice on the flesh, broil 
 it skin side down first, serve it with maitre d' 
 hotel butter, garnish with Julienne potatoes, 
 and you have the dish of an epicure. 
 
 BOILED MACKEREL— Draw and wipe the 
 fish, boil it plain in salted water; serve with 
 melted butter separate, garnish with Hollan- 
 daise potatoes and half a lemon. 
 
 BOILED MACKEREL— Head removed, cut in 
 halves across, drawn, wiped, boiled in sea- 
 soned fish broth containing an onion, bunch of 
 parsley and a little Chablis wine; when done 
 (about 12 minutes) serve either with parsley, 
 caper, olive, drawn butter or Ravigote sauces. 
 
 BUTTERED MACKEREL— Fillets of mackerel 
 wiped dry, placed into a sauce made of melted 
 butter seasoned with anchovy essence, a little 
 mustard, lemon juice, ground mace and red 
 pepper, stew slowly for twenty minutes, then 
 serve. 
 
 BROILED STUFFED MACKEREL— Draw the 
 
 fish and wipe dry; make the stuffing of cold but- 
 ter with a very little fresh grated bread crumbs, 
 chopped chives and shallots, lemon juice, salt 
 and pepper, stuff the opening where drawn, roll 
 in buttered paper, tie the ends, broil slowly till 
 done, remove the paper; serve at once garnished 
 with green stuff and lemon. 
 
 BAKED FILLETS OF MACKEREL— The fish 
 wiped and filleted, the fillets baked and basted 
 with maitre d' hotel butter; served with a 
 brown fish sauce centaining chopped chervil, 
 tarragon, minced truffle peelings and a flavor- 
 ing of port wine. 
 
 FRIED MACKEREL, BUTTER SAUCE— Fil- 
 lets of mackerel wiped, seasoned with lemon 
 juice, salt and red pepper, dipped in flour, 
 then into beaten eggs, fried in hot fat; served 
 with lemon butter sauce, garnished with Parisi- 
 enne potatoes. 
 
 FILLETS OF MACKEREL, SAUTES— The 
 fillets wiped seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
 lemon juice, rolled in flour, sauteed with but- 
 
 tei ; served with a brown fish sauce at the sides, 
 garnished with green stuff and lemon. 
 
 SOUSED MACKEREL — Heads and tails re- 
 moved, the fish drawn and wiped, arranged in 
 pan with whole peppers, allspice, bay leaves 
 and cloves, cover them with equal quantities of 
 white wine vinegar and water, bake slowly for 
 one hour, serve cold, either plain or with Rav- 
 igote sauce. 
 
 BAKED STUFFED FILLETS OF MACKEREL 
 — Split, bone and wipe the fish, season with 
 salt and pepper, quickly set the cut side by 
 lightly frying in butter; make the stuffing of 
 fresh grated breadcrumbs moistened with Alle- 
 mande sauce and seasoned with minced fried 
 shallots, chopped parsley, anchovy essence and 
 Harvey's sauce; spread it on the fried side, 
 smooth, arrange on buttered baking sheet, 
 bake; serve garnished with potato croquettes 
 and lemon. 
 
 BOILED SALT MACKEREL— No. 1 mess are 
 the best; soak them overnight in cold water, then 
 rinse in clear running water, then lay them for 
 an hour in milk, put to boil in cold water, when 
 done, serve with melted butter, maitre d'hotel, 
 mustard, or parsley sauces. 
 
 BROILED SALT MACKEREL— Extract the 
 salt as in the preceding, then wipe dry after 
 taking them out of the milk, season with pep- 
 per, brush with butter, broil; serve with melted 
 butter, garnished with parsley and lemon. 
 
 MADEIRA— Name of a wine. Sauces, cakes, 
 ices and jellies so named are supposed to con- 
 tain some of it, which rarely happens, sherry 
 and Marsala usually being substituted. 
 
 MADELINES— Name given to small cakes baked 
 in fancy patty pans, made of a pound mixture, 
 viz: a pound each of butter, sugar, sifted flour, 
 eggs (ten) and a wine glass of cognac; some 
 also add sultana raisins, currants and candied 
 peels. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL— Name applied to a sauce 
 and a garnish (the literal meaning of the name 
 is a steward). The sauce is composed of melted 
 butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice, and 
 is used chiefly with broiled meat and fish; quar- 
 tered boiled potatoes in the sauce is the garnish 
 for boiled fish; and quartered lemons with the 
 meat is the garnish. 
 
 MALLARD— Name of our best and largest wild 
 duck. 
 
 ROAST MALLARD, AMERICAN STYLE— The 
 birds plucked, singed, drawn and trussed, then 
 roasted rare 30 to 40 minutes, jointed, the 
 joints kept hot; the carcasses stewed down with 
 herbs and seasonings, sauce made from it, fin- 
 ished with currant jelly and port wine, served 
 with the joints. 
 
 MALLARD, PROVENCALE STYLE — The 
 birds plucked, singed, drawn, stuffed, trussed, 
 
Io6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 roasted and served in portions with the gravy 
 from the birds mixed with shallot sauce. 
 BROILED MALLARD, MAITRE D'HOTEL— 
 The birds plucked, singed, split down the back; 
 back and breastbones removed, laid skin down- 
 wards in a pan, seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 olive oil, marinaded in this for 15 minutes, 
 then broiled rare; served with maitre d'hotel 
 butter and garnished with water cress. 
 FRIED MALLARD, ORANGE SAUCE— The 
 The birds prepared, split down the back, back 
 and breastbones removed, thigh bone snapped, 
 marinaded for an hour in olive oil with a few 
 chopped onions, parsley and mushroom ketch- 
 up, taken up, fried rare with a little olive oil; 
 served with Bigarade sauce. 
 FILLETS OF MALLARD, GAME SAUCE— 
 Prepare and roast as for American style above; 
 when done, take off the fillets, stew down the 
 carcasses in game sauce with a few shallots, 
 port wine and a piece of game glaze, strain 
 through a fine chinee cap, finish with cayenne 
 and lemon juice; served with the portions. 
 SALMIS OF MALLARD — The birds plainly 
 roasted very rare, jointed, the joints skinned; 
 carcasses and skins then boiled down with 
 herbs, cloves, whole peppers, bay leaves and 
 fried shallots; when reduced, made into a 
 sauce, strained and skimmed, finished with a 
 little glaze and port wine, joints then put in 
 and simmered for 15 minutes, afterwards kept 
 hot but not allowed to boil; served garnished 
 with croutons. 
 MANGO — Name of a most superb torrid climate 
 fruit, about the size of a large lemon, the inter- 
 ior of a pulpy nature attached to a stone in size 
 like that of a large peach stone. On account of 
 its perishability in transport, we obtain it 
 chiefly as a pickle, jelly, chutney or preserve. 
 MARASCHINO— A very fine liqueur of Italian 
 origin, obtained from the Marasca cherry, 
 plum and peach kernels; used both as a drink 
 and a flavoring to jellies, ices, sauces, puddings, 
 meringues, etc., etc. 
 MARINADE — A pickling mixture made of oil, 
 vinegar, lemon juice; salt, pepper, herbs, Wor- 
 cestershire sauce, anchovy essence, onions, 
 bay leaves, whole peppers, whole cloves, and 
 parsley, the different ingredients above being 
 variously added to the oil; vinegar or lemon 
 juice according to the fish, flesh or fowl to be 
 marinaded, the article being steeped for an hour 
 or so prior to being cooked so as to either en- 
 rich or bring out the flavor in cooking. 
 MARJORAM — Name of a garden herb used as a 
 flavoring to soups, sauces and stuffing for fish 
 and fowl. 
 MARMALADE — Another name for jam, marma- 
 lade being the word mostly used in this coun- 
 try. Recipes for its making are found under 
 the fruit headings which can be used. 
 
 MARRONS — French name for chestnL.s. The 
 French take the large nuts and preserve them 
 by candying, then export them either in cans 
 with syrup, or crystalized. 
 MARROW — The contents of leg of beef bones, 
 especially the bone of the buttock, which runs 
 between the thick flank, topside and silver side, 
 the buttock generally being termed the round. 
 The top side of the buttock makes very fine 
 steaks indeed, and in England fetches 25c per 
 pound; the silver side of the buttock being used 
 for boiling either fresh or salt, and fetches 16c 
 per pound. The marrow bone should be sawn 
 in three pieces, the marrow taken out, blanched 
 in boiling milk and water for a minute, cooled, 
 then cut in slices to lay on a steak, over which 
 may be poured fines-herbes sauce, or it may be 
 cut in pieces and mixed with chopped mush- 
 rooms, onion and parsley, and filled into paper 
 cases that have been buttered and lined with 
 breadcrumbs, then baked and served; or into 
 fancy paste croustades; or it may be cut into 
 small dice, seasoned, mixed with cream and 
 beaten eggs, filled into patty pans lined with 
 puff paste and baked; or again simmered in 
 white Italian sauce and used as a bcuchee or 
 small patty filling; again cut into long pieces, 
 dipped in a frying batter, fried and served with 
 a tomato puree; made into quenelles by adding 
 an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a little 
 flour, salt, pepper and egg yolks, pound, rub 
 through a sieve, form with spoons, then poach. 
 MARZIPAN — Name given to an almond paste 
 used by confectioners; made of 14 ozs. of sweet 
 almonds, two of bitter, one pound of powdered 
 sugar, a flavoring either of orange flower or 
 rose water; the almonds are blanched, dried, 
 pounded with the sugar and flavoring to a paste, 
 then put into a preserving pan and stirred 
 over the fire till it clings in a mass to the spat- 
 ula, it is then formed into rolls, cut in slices 
 and baked in a very cool oven till of a light 
 brown color, or forced through a bag and tube 
 into ring shapes, dusted with sugar and baked. 
 MASTIC — An aromatic resin used for flavoring 
 
 chewing gum. 
 MATELOTE — Name of a fish stew or garnish for 
 fish, (a la Matelote means in sailor's style). 
 See garnishes. 
 MAYONNAISE — Name of a salad dressing, also 
 as a decorative sauce for cold fish. Made with 
 a pint of olive oil, half a pint of white vinegar, 
 juice of two lemons, five raw egg yolks, one 
 ounce of dry mustard, salt and red pepper to 
 taste; place the cold yolks and mustard in a cold 
 bowl, thorougly mix, then drop by drop stir in 
 one-fou-th of the oil, when like butter gradually 
 thin wi^h some of the liquid, then add the salt, 
 when it will be found to have thickened right 
 up again; then finish stirring in the remaining 
 oil and liquid at alternate intervals, finish with 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 107 
 
 the red pepper (some add a little powdered 
 sugar with the pepper). When finished it 
 should be thick enough to mask a fish or salad 
 without running off. 
 
 ASPIC MAYONNAISE— Equal parts of mayon- 
 naisse and bright aspic jelly barely melted, 
 beaten together, used to set mazarins. 
 
 MAZARINS— Molds of decorated fillets of fowl, 
 game or fish, set with aspic mayonnaise, turned 
 out when cold and firm, decorated and sent to 
 table. 
 
 MEDALLIONS — Name given to medal size and 
 shaped pieces of savory foods, such as foie-gras, 
 potted tongue, ham, etc., jellied meats. They 
 are always nicely decorated and generally used 
 as an appetizer or hois d'oeuvre. 
 
 MELONS — Name of a fruit largely contained of 
 water; the watermelon and the different varie- 
 ties of canteloupe; the latter being used gener- 
 ally as a breakfast appetizer, and the former as 
 a dinner dessert; preserved watermelon rind 
 makes a fine preserve for the summer tea. 
 
 MELON PRESERVE— Cut the watermelon rind 
 into small pieces, place 20 lbs. into a tub, 
 sprinkle it well with a pint of salt, just cover 
 it with cold water and allow it to marinade for 
 five hours, then drain, and again cover it with 
 cold water and soak for two hours, changing 
 the water three times, then drain, put on the 
 fire in a preserving pan, cover with boiling 
 water, bring to boiling point, then drain again; 
 make a syrup of ten pounds of sugar and six 
 quarts of boiling water, boil and skim, then add 
 the melon rind, and slowly simmer till tender; 
 skim out the rind, place it on draining sieves 
 for two hours in a warm place to set; when 
 hardened place into cold crocks; boil up the 
 syrup again with the sliced peel and juice of 
 eight lemons and two ounces of sliced ginger, 
 boil ten minutes, then strain over the fruit in 
 the crocks. 
 
 MENU — French term for "bill of fare". Why 
 should the word MENU head our American 
 dinner bills? Why should the progressive Ameri- 
 can ape dying France? Why should the Ameri- 
 can culinary student detest the kitchen be- 
 cause he cannot twist his tongue around the 
 French culinary a la this and that? Is not the 
 American flag dear to the American? Then 
 why not the American language? Does not the 
 farmer, mechanic, layman and every American 
 who patronizes hotel, restaurant and club life 
 know the meaning of the term "bill of fare"? 
 Then why put the French word "MENU" at the 
 head, and the generally mongrel Frenchy terms 
 throughout the bill of fare? When in Rome do 
 as the Romans do; then when in America do 
 as the Americans do. Let those from France, 
 or the French scholars, read the plain home- 
 like American language on our bills of fare, the 
 same as the traveling American has to read the 
 
 Menus in the languages of Europe. They do 
 not print the Menus in France in the American 
 language; then why should we print our Ameri- 
 can bills of fare in French, or as is generally 
 the case in half French and half American? 
 For example: "Veal cutlet a la Francaise," 
 or "Small patties de volaille," why not put 
 Small patties of chicken"? Everyone knows 
 what chicken is and will order it, but all do not 
 know that volaille translated means fowl. 
 
 One of my first thoughts in writing this 
 handbook zt'as to abstain from French terms. 
 I said to myself, I WILL WRITE AN AMERI- 
 CAN CULINAR Y HANDBOOK FOR AMERI- 
 CANS. I have heard it frequently stated that 
 the terms for the bill of fare could not be prop- 
 erly represented in the American lariguage. 
 I SA Y IT CAN, and as a proof positive you 
 have it here. There are no French terms used 
 for the receipts of this book, and the headings 
 as given are what should in my opinion be 
 placed on the bill of fare, as perfectly adequate 
 in describing the dish. 
 
 MERINGUE — Name given to a mixture made 
 by whipping whites of eggs to a stiff froth, 
 then working in sugar, and sometimes flavor- 
 ings and colors; used as a covering to cup 
 custards, puddings, cream pies, shortcakes, 
 floren tines, etc. , as an icing for cakes; also when 
 of a firm mixture forced through a bag and tube 
 into shapes, then baked dry without much color, 
 the insides are then scooped out and used as a 
 receptacle for ices, ice creams, creams, etc. 
 
 MILANAISE — Name of a garnish composed of 
 strips of white chicken meat, red ham, black 
 truffles and pipe macaroni worked into a veloute 
 sauce, finished with a little Parmesan cheese. 
 
 MILT — Name of the soft roe of fish. 
 
 MINCEMEAT — Ten pounds of sound cooking 
 apples chopped fine, ten pounds of raisins 
 seeded and chopped, five pounds of currants 
 thoroughly cleaned and freed from grit, ^ 
 pound each of orange and lemon candied peel, 
 two pounds of citron all shredded, ten pounds 
 of granulated sugar, a mixture of ground spice 
 (made of five grated nutmegs, a dessert spoon- 
 ful each of cloves, mace, allspice, cinnamon 
 and black pepper), seven and a half pounds 
 each of beef suet and boiled lean beef chopped, 
 half a cup of salt, mix well, then moisten with 
 the juice of ten oranges, a quart each of gocd 
 brandy and Jamaica rum and enough old cider 
 to form a stiff consistency. 
 
 MINT — A garden herb, used as a soup and sauce 
 flavoring; mint sauce for lamb made by finely 
 chopping fresh green mint, then place it in a 
 tureen adding to it the grated rind and juice of 
 a lemon; bring to the boil with enough sugar 
 to be palatable, one pint of good vinegar, pour 
 it to the mint, let cool and serve. 
 
io8 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 MOLASSES — A thick liquid obtained from sugar 
 in its process of refining; used for cakes, pud- 
 dings, candy, etc. 
 
 MULLET— A small sea fish of the Southern 
 coasts, seldom seen at table, as the gray is too 
 common, and the red too scarce. The red 
 should be just wiped, the entrails drawn, leav- 
 ing the liver and trail in the fish, roll them in 
 olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, broil them in 
 paper cases and serve with Italian, Ravigote 
 or fine herb sauce. The gray mullet may be 
 treated in any of the forms applicable to herrings 
 
 MUSHROOMS — An edible fungi, umbrella 
 shaped, dark gills, with easily removable skin; 
 if those sold you have white gills and the skin 
 will not strip easily, but breaks off in bits, dis- 
 card them, they will probably be found to be 
 toadstools. At least 70 per cent, of the mush- 
 rooms used in culinary preparations are canned 
 button mushrooms and morels. Fresh mush- 
 rooms are seldom used in sauces on account of 
 their color. The following recipes will use 
 canned, except where stated. 
 
 PUREE OF MUSHROOMS — Canned button 
 mushrooms minced, sauteed with butter for five 
 minutes, moistened with veloute sauce, reduce 
 quickly, then add some thick cream and lemon 
 juice, reduce five minutes more, then rub 
 through a tamis for use. 
 
 MUSHROOM GARNISH— Canned mushrooms 
 drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
 boiled down with a seasoning of salt, lemon 
 juice, butter and a little white stock, when 
 nearly dry, the liquor added, the whole then 
 put into a thick Allemande sauce and used to 
 garnish white entrees, or put into a rich Espag- 
 nole-sauce to garnish brown entrees. 
 
 STUFFED MUSHROOMS.ITALIAN SAUCE— 
 Large fresh mushrooms skinned, stalk removed, 
 placed skin side downward in a buttered baking 
 pan, filled with the following: Mince the stalks 
 with some shallots, parsley, fat bacon, lean 
 ham and thyme leaves, saute them in olive oil 
 for five minutes, then work in some egg yolks, 
 season with salt and pepper; when filled, 
 sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter, 
 bake till nicely browned (about 20 minutes); 
 serve with brown Italian sauce poured around, 
 garnish with fancy croutons. 
 
 BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST— Medium 
 sized fresh mushrooms skinned and fhe stalks 
 removed, wash in cold water containing a dash 
 of vinegar, drain, arrange in a buttered baking 
 pan skin side downward; into each then place 
 half a pat of butter, bake till done (about 20 
 minutes) basting with the butter once or twice; 
 serve on buttered toast garnished with tufts of 
 fried parsley. 
 
 BROILED MUSHROOMS— Large fresh mush- 
 rooms skinned and the stalks removed, dipped 
 
 in melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 placed in wire hinged broiler, broiled till done; 
 meantime slice the stalks very thin and saute 
 them with butter and a little chopped parsley; 
 serve the mushrooms on toast, or as an accom- 
 paniment to steaks, cutlets, etc., adding the 
 sauteed stalks. 
 MUSHROOMS IN CROUSTADES— Small fresh 
 button mushrooms peeled, washed, drained, 
 sauteed with butter, chopped chives and pars- 
 ley, seasoned with salt and pepper, just moist- 
 ened with Allemande sauce and a dash of lemon 
 juice filled into fancy paste, or fried bread 
 croustades and served. 
 
 SAUTE OF MUSHROOMS— Medium sized fresh 
 mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, sauteed 
 with butter and minced shallots, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg, moistened slightly 
 with chicken broth, then reduce; serve on toast, 
 or on platter garnished with strips of buttered 
 toast, or as a garnish. 
 
 STUFFED MUSHROOMS, CREOLE STYLE 
 — Medium sized fresh mushrooms peeled and 
 washed, stalks removed and minced with a lit- 
 tle celery and green peppers, saute the mince in 
 olive oil, then moisten with chicken liquor, re- 
 duce, then thicken with fresh grated bread- 
 crumbs, remove from fire and add strips of 
 truffle peelings, chopped parsley, salt and pap- 
 rika, fill the mushrooms, smooth, brush with 
 beaten eggs, press on some breadcrumbs, 
 arrange in a shallow sautoir, saute on both 
 sides, when nicely browned, take up and serve 
 on toast with Creole sauce separate. 
 
 STEWED MUSHROOMS— Canned mushrooms 
 drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
 fried light brown with butter, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, when brown add a little flour, 
 shake, moisten with the liquor, juice of lemons, 
 Espagnole sauce and sherry wine, simmer and 
 skim; when bright, use as a garnish to larded 
 fillet of beef, etc. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS— Canned but- 
 ton mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the 
 mushrooms fried a light brown with butter and 
 minced shallots; when colored, drained, and 
 placed with the reduced liquor into a rich 
 Poulette sauce, season with nutmeg, salt, cay- 
 enne and lemon juice; served on toast, in cases, 
 croustades, or as a garnish to white entrees. 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE— Canned mushrooms 
 drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms 
 sauteed lightly with butter, then added to a 
 Veloute sauce with the reduced liquor, season 
 with cayenne and lemon juice for white entrees, 
 or use Madeira or Espagnole sauces for brown 
 entrees. 
 
 CREAMED FRESH MUSHROOMS-Fresh but- 
 ton mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, 
 thick pure cream fetched to the boil, mush 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 109 
 
 rooms cooked in it till done (about 7 minutes), 
 season with salt and cayenne; serve in chafing 
 dish. 
 MUSHROOM CATSUP— Fresh mushrooms 
 wiped (not washed) and placed into crocks 
 in layers till full, each layer being well 
 sprinkled with salt; when full, cover with a 
 folded cloth and stand in a warm place for 24 
 hours, then mash and strain through a very 
 coarse towel or a sack; to each gallon of the 
 liquor thus obtained add a quarter of a pound 
 of whole peppers and simmer for half an hour, 
 then add one ounce of whole cloves, one ounce 
 of whole allspice, two ounces of bruised ginger 
 and half an ounce of whole mace, simmer for 
 another half hour, then remove from fire; when 
 cold, strain through a jelly bag, bottle, cork 
 and seal. 
 STUFFED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST— Fresh 
 mushrooms, the stalks minced and sauteed with 
 a few shallots and parsley, added then to a lit- 
 tle minced chicken in sauce Supreme, the 
 mushrooms stuffed with it and baked; served on 
 circles of buttered toast. 
 FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS— Fresh mush- 
 rooms peeled, broiled on outside till brown, 
 simmered in thin Bechamel sauce till done; 
 served with fancy croutons. 
 MUSHROOM RISSOLES— A quart of minced 
 fresh mushrooms, two minced medium sized 
 onions, pepper, salt, a pinch of ground mixed 
 herbs, simmered in thick sauce till the onion is 
 done, a spoonful then placed in rounds of pas- 
 try, edges folded over, pinched round, sprink- 
 led with breadcrumbs and fried in oil. 
 MUSHROOM OMELET— Use either canned or 
 fresh mushrooms, saute till tender with a few 
 minced shallots, drain, add them to a Madeira 
 sauce, simmer, make the omelet, enclose the 
 mushrooms, pour the sauce around it and send 
 to table. 
 MUSCALLONGE— A large fish of the pike 
 species found in the great lakes; may be cooked 
 and served in all the ways for pike (which see). 
 MUSSELS — A large almond shaped shellfish 
 found along the coasts, equally as good as oys- 
 ters, but on account of their cheapness not so 
 much used; are eaten raw the same as oysters, 
 but generally first blanched, the usual way be- 
 ing to thoroughly wash the shells, then to 7^ 
 fill a saucepan with them, adding just a little 
 water, put on the lid, then steam till they open 
 their shells, when the fish is removed, they may 
 then be used as follows: 
 SCALLOPED MUSSELS— Large fat mussels 
 raw, simmered till plump in a little fish broth 
 with bay leaf, thyme and parsley; taken up, 
 drained, added to a thick Bechamel sauce, filled 
 into scallop shells, smoothed over, sprinkled 
 with breadcrumbs and grated cheese, browned 
 off and served. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS— Blanched mus- 
 sels threaded on skewers, dipped in melted 
 butter and breadcrumbs twice, then broiled, or 
 may be dipped in butter and fried in deep fat. 
 
 FRIED MUSSELS — Raw mussels drained, rolled 
 in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden 
 brown in a little very hot fat in a frying pan. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF MUSSELS— Blanched mussels 
 in Hollandaise sauce; served on toast sprinkled 
 with parsley dust. 
 
 STEAMED MUSSELS, LEMON BUTTER 
 SAUCE — Blanched mussels simmered in mai- 
 tre d'hotel butter; served on strips of hot toast, 
 sauce poured over them. 
 
 STEWED MUSSELS— Blanched mussels, boil- 
 ing milk 2 /t,, mussel liquor strained }/$, butter, 
 salt, red pepper; same as oyster stew. 
 
 STEWED MUSSELS— Blanched mussels, thin 
 white sauce made of % milk and J/3 strained 
 mussel liquor, mussels added with chopped 
 parsley, salt and red pepper; served with oyster 
 crackers or thin brown bread. 
 
 MUSSELS BREADED, VILLEROI SAUCE— 
 Blanched mussels dipped into cooling Villeroi 
 sauce; when set, dipped into sifted bread- 
 crumbs, then egg and breadcrumbs, fried in 
 dripping a golden color; served garnished with 
 tufts of fried parsley, and lemon. 
 
 MUSSELS SAUTES WITH FINE HERBS— 
 Blanched mussels sauteed with butter, minced 
 chives, parsley, garlic and sifted breadcrumbs, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper; served in cases. 
 
 MUSSEL SAUCE— Blanched mussels in sauce 
 Normande. 
 
 CREAMED MUSSELS— Raw mussels dropped 
 into hot butter and sauteed till plump, Becha- 
 mel sauce then added, simmered; served on 
 toast with sauce poured over. 
 
 MUSSELS, ITALIAN STYLE— Raw mussels 
 sauteed in butter with minced onions; when 
 onions are slightly brown, the oysters taken up 
 into a sautoir, tomatoes added and reduced till 
 thick, then added to the mussels with white 
 sauce and chopped parsley; seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, butter and a dash of anchovy essence; 
 served in scallop dishes garnished with sippets 
 of toast. 
 
 MUSSELS, FISHERMEN STYLE— Raw mus- 
 sels dried between cloths, butter fried to a nut 
 brown, mussels then added and fried till plump, 
 taken up; light brown sauce then made with the 
 butter, flour, salt, pepper and fish broth, mus- 
 sels arranged on toast, sauce poured over and 
 served. 
 
 PAN ROAST OF MUSSELS— Raw mussels 
 dropped into frothing butter and fried till 
 plump, seasoned with salt and cayenne; served 
 on strips of toast with enough of the liquor to 
 moisten it, sprinkled with parsley dust and 
 garnished with cress and lemon. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 MUSTARD — A yellow flour produced by finely 
 grinding the seeds of the mustard plant; prepared 
 for table as a condiment by simply mixing to a 
 thick cream with cold water and a taste of salt. 
 The French prepare mustard for table use by 
 boiling together equal quantities of tarragon 
 and cider vinegars, pouring it to the mustard 
 flour and when thickened, simmered a few min- 
 utes, meanwhile adding a flavoring composed 
 of white wine which has had soaked in it in a 
 warm place for an hour or so some celery 
 seeds, whole spices and a clove of crushed 
 garlic, salt and a taste of sugar. 
 
 MUSTARD AND CRESS— These are the first 
 sproutings of the cress seed and the mustard 
 seed, used in equal proportions mixed, after 
 being thoroughly washed and drained. To 
 form sandwiches between brown bread and 
 butter simply sprinkled with salt, or used as a 
 breakfast salad by lightly tossing with a sprink- 
 ling of salt, olive oil and lemon juice. 
 
 MUTTON — What a tremendous difference there 
 is in mutton, brought about by its different 
 pastures and breeds. The steward should al- 
 ways buy WETHER mutton, leaving the 
 EWES entirely alone, unless they are MAID- 
 ENS. The best cutting sheep are from sixty 
 to seventy pounds in weight. The skin should 
 be dry. Leave the oily skinned ones alone as 
 they will eat TOUGH. See that they are mod- 
 erately lean by noting the shoulder meat show- 
 ing through the skin, and also that the meat of 
 the leg outwards can be seen through the skin 
 extending well down towards the loin. Cheaper 
 to buy the whole sheep and use all its parts 
 (except the head) then to keep on buying racks, 
 racks, racks. The butcher is going to cut those 
 racks LONG, and you have to cut off two or 
 three inches, before you can send them to the 
 broiler, and the chops then come very expen- 
 sive. The loin chops which are infinitely the 
 best should be used with the neck chop, one of 
 each, thus making the pair of chops usually 
 called for, the trimmed bone of the neck one 
 carrying the frill and a croquette tip stuck into 
 the loin one. In cutting up the sheep, split it 
 straight through the spinal column, then sep- 
 arate the quarters, cut off the legs close to the 
 pin bone. The loin will yield three half pound 
 trimmed chump chops, and ten six ounce 
 trimmed loin chops. With the forequaiter, 
 lift off the shoulder, cut off the breast, then cut 
 off the scrag with the first two bones of the 
 rack adhering; you now have eleven neck chops 
 to each quart2r, or forty-eight chops to the 
 sheep, two legs and two shoulders for joints, 
 the breasts and scrags for the multitude of en- 
 trees and the helps hall. 
 
 BOILED LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the 
 shank bone, put to boil in cold water with salt 
 whole carrots and white turnips; when done, 
 
 take up, cut the vegetables into finger sizes; 
 make a white sauce from the stock, adding 
 capers and caper vinegar; serve in portions 
 with the sauce at ends of dish, using the vege- 
 tables as a garnish. 
 
 ROAST LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the shank 
 bone, rub with salt and pepper, dredge with 
 flour, roast till done with frequent basting, 
 take up, pour off surplus fat from the pan, add 
 a little flour to the remaining gravy, moisten 
 with stock to make a sauce, strain, add capers 
 and caper vinegar, or let it remain plain and 
 serve with each portion some red currant jelly 
 separate. 
 
 BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON— Cut off the 
 shank bone, put the leg into a brasiere with 
 some fat bacon trimmings, onions, carrots, bay 
 leaves, bunch of sweet herbs, whole peppers 
 and allspice, moisten with mutton stock, place 
 on the lid, then put the whole into a hot oven, 
 cook till done and glazy, take up, then reduce 
 the braise to half glaze, strain, skim; serve 
 with the portions and red currant jelly separ- 
 ate; or you may garnish it with glazed balls of 
 carrot and turnip, also some glazed small 
 onions. 
 
 BRAISED STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON— 
 Bone the leg, and where the bone was, insert a 
 filling composed of minced mushrooms, pars- 
 ley, shallots, grated ham, little grated lemon 
 rind, seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, mix 
 these well, then work in some forcemeat, sew 
 up the openings, place the stuffed leg into a 
 brasiere with carrots, turnips, celery, clove of 
 crushed garlic, whole cloves and mace, moisten 
 with stock, braise and glaze; when done, take 
 up, and reduce the braise, strain and skim it, 
 add it to a Veloute sauce containing capers; 
 serve with a stuffed tomato at ends of dish, with 
 the sauce poured around. 
 
 BRAISED LARDED LEG OF MUTTON- -Bone 
 and stuff the leg of mutton as in the preceding 
 recipe, then lard the outside with seasoned 
 strips of bacon, place in brasiere with carrot, 
 turnip, onion, celery, bunch of sweet herbs, 
 cloves and mace, moisten with stock, braise 
 and glaze, take up when done, reduce the re- 
 maining braise, strain and skim it; serve with 
 onion puree at one end of the dish, potato cro- 
 quette at the other, and send the sauce to 
 table separate. 
 
 BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH BEANS 
 — Cut off the shank, insert six cloves of garlic 
 into the leg at different places, braise with vege- 
 tables and spices, take up when done, then re- 
 duce, strain and skim the braise. Meanwhile 
 boil some navy beans; when done, drain, and 
 mix them into a sauce of brown onion puree; 
 serve the portions of mutton on top of a spoon- 
 ful of the sauced beans, pour a little of the 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 braise around and garnish with a few Parisi- 
 enne potatoes. 
 
 BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES — Bone the leg, season it inside with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg and thyme, sew up, braise 
 with vegetables and spices, take up when done, 
 reduce, strain and skim the braise; serve garn- 
 ished with glazed young carrots, ' small whole 
 new turnips, flowerets of caulifflower, green 
 peas, points of asparagus, small new potatoes, 
 quartered artichoke bottoms, a macedoine or 
 jardiniere, stringless French beans (haricots 
 verts), flageolet beans, new lima beans, stuffed 
 cucumber, baked tomatoes, etc., etc. If when 
 using any of the moistened garnishes by them- 
 selves, place it on the bill of fare as Braised 
 leg of mutton with such and such garnish. 
 
 ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON, OYS- 
 TER SAUCE — Bone the shoulder; where the 
 bone was, spread with oyster croquette mix- 
 ture, roll up tight, tie closely with string, 
 place it in a steamer and steam till done; serve 
 in portions with white oyster sauce; or if after it 
 has been steamed two-thirds done, take it up and 
 finish cooking in a sharp oven, take out when 
 of a deep fawn color and serve it with brown 
 oyster sauce. 
 
 BOILED MUTTON WITH TURNIPS— Use 
 either the leg or the shoulder, boil it medium 
 done in salted water with a few root vegetables; 
 serve portions on a bed of mashed turnips, with 
 caper sauce around the base. 
 
 STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON, SAUCE 
 ROBERT — Lean breast of mutton, pocket 
 made the entire length between the meat and 
 rib bones, filled with a stuffing made of sausage 
 meat mixed with minced onions, parsley, mush- 
 rooms and a few fresh breadcrumbs, sew up the 
 opening, steam till done; serve in portions with 
 sauce Robert. 
 
 BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS— 
 Lean breasts of mutton boiled tender in sea- 
 soned broth; when done, bones removed, 
 pressed till cold and firm, then cut in strips, 
 breaded, fried; served on a bed of mashed tur- 
 nips with gravy round the base. 
 
 ROLLED STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON 
 — Broad cut lean breasts of mutton, boned, 
 spread with veal or chicken forcemeat, rolled, 
 tied with twine, baked slowly in roast mutton 
 gravy; served garnished with a jardiniere of 
 vegetables. 
 
 BRAISED BREAST OF MUTTON, ITALIAN 
 SAUCE — Breasts of mutton simmered in sea- 
 soned broth till the bones are easily removed, 
 then press till cold, cut in triangular pieces, 
 braise them in the reduced stock they were 
 simmered in, then take up and strain the braise 
 into a brown Italian sauce, which serve with 
 the portions. 
 
 GLAZED BREAST OF MUTTON — Lean 
 breasts of mutton boiled till tender in seasoned 
 broth, taken up and boned, then pressed till 
 cold, cut in pieces, seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per, saute in butter, then place in hot demi- 
 glaze; serve garnished with small glazed onions. 
 
 FRIED BREAST OF MUTTON— Breasts of 
 mutton boiled tender in seasoned stock, taken 
 up, boned, pressed, cut in shapes, dipped in 
 beaten egg, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, ar- 
 ranged in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
 melted butter, browned and frothed in a sharp 
 oven; served surrounded with tomato sauce. 
 
 BROILED BREASTS OF MUTTON— Lean 
 breasts of mutton steamed long enough to draw 
 the bones, taken up, skin scored, a seasoning of 
 powdered thyme, salt and pepper then rubbed 
 in, dipped in beaten egg, then in fresh bread 
 crumbs; placed two whole breasts at a time in 
 wire hinged broiler, broiled, basted with butter; 
 when nicely browned, served in two-inch wide 
 strips with piquante sauce under the meat. 
 This dish is well appreciated at breakfast or 
 luncheon. 
 
 HARICOT OF MUTTON— Lean breasts of mut- 
 ton in strips seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 fried quickly a light brown, taken up into a 
 sautoir, sprinkled well with flour, shaken to- 
 gether, moistened with seasoned broth, brought 
 to the boil and skimmed; column cut slices of 
 root vegetables fried in butter with a little 
 sugar, drained, added to the meat, the whole 
 then simmered till half an hour before done, 
 small balls of raw potatoes then added with 
 small sauteed onions, finish cooking, season with 
 salt and Paprika; served with the vegetables as 
 a garnish. 
 
 CURRY OF MUTTON WITH RICE — Lean 
 breasts of mutton in strips seasoned with salt, 
 rubbed with curry powder, sauteed with butter 
 a light brown color; taken up into a sautoir, 
 sprinkled and well shook with flour and little 
 more curry powder, moistened with seasoned 
 white broth, brought to the boil, skimmed, 
 rings of sauteed onions then added, simmered 
 and skimmed till done; serve within a border of 
 dry boiled rice. 
 
 IRISH STEW— Lean breasts of mutton cut in 
 strips, blanched, rinsed, put back into a clean 
 sautoir with balls or column cut slices of root 
 vegetables, moisten with white stock, simmer 
 and skim; when nearly done, balls of raw pota- 
 toes added; finish cooking, thicken with flour 
 and butter, season with salt and pepper; serve 
 sprinkled with chopped parsley. 
 
 RAGOUT OF MUTTON WITH TOMATOES— 
 Lean breasts of mutton in strips, fried a light 
 brown with butter and shallots, taken up into a 
 sautoir, sprinkled and shook well with flour, 
 moistened with mutton gravy, simmered and 
 skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper and pap- 
 
112 
 
 rika; served garnished with a stuffed tomato at 
 one end, and balls of glazed turnips at the 
 other. 
 RISSOLES OF MUTTON, SAUCE HOLLAN- 
 DAISE — Cold pieces of stewed mutton free of 
 bones, minced finely, seasoned with salt 
 chopped parsley, paprika, thyme and mace, 
 mixed into one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed 
 potatoes; when thoroughly mixed, allow to be- 
 come quite cold, then form into finger lengths 
 like sausages, double bread, fry; serve with 
 Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 CASSEROLES OF MUTTON— Make a stiff po- 
 tato croquette mixture, shape pieces of it lite a 
 patty, double bread and fry; now cut a lid 
 scoop out the inside, thus leaving a case, fill the 
 interior with mutton mince of the preceding 
 recipe (heated), put on the lid, keep them hot; 
 with the potatoes you scooped out, form into 
 Duchesse potatoes and use as a garnish. 
 
 HASHED MUTTON WITH PEPPERS— Cold 
 breasts of mutton from any of the forgoing 
 recipes, cut small in dice shape, sauteed with 
 minced onion, moistened with some Espagnole 
 sauce. Green peppers, tops cut off, insides 
 scooped out, double blanched, drained, filled 
 with the mince, gratinated, slowly baked and 
 basted till of a nice brown color; served with a 
 rich tomato sauce poured around. 
 
 BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH BEANS 
 PUREE — Best neck chops seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then bread- 
 crumbs, fried medium done with butter; navy 
 beans boiled, drained, rubbed through a tamis, 
 little Bechamel sauce added, used as a bed on 
 which to lay the chops; served with a demi-glaze 
 around the base. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS SAUTES, SAUCE SOU- 
 BISE — Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
 with salt and paprika, sauteed with butter and 
 minced shallot; served on a bed of onion puree 
 mixed with Veloute sauce, garnished with fancy 
 croutons. 
 
 MUTTON CHOP WITH POTATO BORDER— 
 Best neck chops trimmed, fried a golden brown 
 in butter, fresh mashed potatoes mixed with a 
 little chopped parsley forced through a bag and 
 tube around the dish, chop in centre with 
 maitre d'hotel butter spread on it. 
 
 BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH MUSH 
 ROOM PUREE— Best neck chops trimmed, 
 seasoned with salt and paprika, breaded, fried 
 with butter; mushrooms stewed in Veloute 
 sauce till soft, then rubbed through sieve; chop 
 served resting on fancy shape of buttered toast 
 with the puree around. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, PROVENCE STYLE— 
 Trimmed neck chops sauteed half done with 
 butter, equal parts of onion and mushroom 
 purees with a flavor of garlic and a little 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 chopped parsley, brought to the boil, thickened 
 with egg yolks, stirred till of a thick paste; 
 this spread od one side of the chop, arranged 
 in a buttered baking pan, sprinkled with Par- 
 mesan cheese, finished in a quick oven; served 
 with a brown sauce poured around. 
 
 MUTTON CHOP WITH GLAZED NEW CAR- 
 ROTS — Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned 
 and broiled medium done; new carrots trimmed, 
 blanched, then sauteed till tender with butter 
 and a little sugar, taken up, drained, then 
 tossed in maitre d'hotel sauce; served as a 
 garnish to the chop. (Plain broiled chop as in 
 the recipe here given may be served with a 
 garnish of either Bretonne puree, stuffed egg 
 plant, stewed okras, haricots verts, macedoine 
 or jardiniere of vegetables, flageolets, green 
 peas, vegetable puree, fried parsley, spinach 
 puree, mashed potatoes, sauteed balls of turnip, 
 and simply named on the bill of fare as Mutton 
 chop with such or such garnish, as prepared). 
 
 MUTTON CHOP WITH TRUFFLES — Loin 
 chops trimmed, seasoned, broiled; served with 
 a Madeira sauce containing plenty of sliced 
 truffles. 
 
 COATED CUTLETS OF MUTTON— Trimmed 
 loin chops, quickly sauteed with butter half 
 done, dipped into a thick sauce containing 
 minced ham and mushrooms, they are then 
 breaded and slowly fried till done; served rest- 
 ing on a fancy crouton, or they may be coated 
 with an onion puree and served with a Soubise 
 sauce. 
 
 MUTTON CHOP, SOUTHERN STYLE- Loin 
 chops trimmed, seasoned, sauteed till done with 
 butter and minced shallot; served on a fancy 
 crouton garnished with a mold of dry boiled 
 rice, a stuffed baked tomato and some stewed 
 okras. 
 
 MUTTON CHOP WITH PEAS PUREE— Loin 
 chops trimmed and partly sauteed, then dipped 
 into a thick yellow parsley sauce, breaded, fried; 
 served on a bed of peas puree and surrounded 
 with Veloute sauce. 
 
 BAKED MUTTON CUTLETS WITH APPLES 
 — Take the chops of the the neck under the 
 shoulder, place them in a buttered pan with 
 some sliced apples and onions, season with salt 
 and pepper, just cover with a nice clear gravy, 
 place another pan over as a lid, bake about 45 
 minutes, remove when glazy; serve the chop in 
 centre of dish with apples at one and onions at 
 other side, garnishing the ends of dish with 
 fancy croutons. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS FRIED, ITALIAN SAUCE— 
 Best neck chops trimmed, spread with a sauce 
 containing minced onions, little garlic, Parme- 
 san cheese and hard boiled egg yolks rubbed 
 through a sieve; when set, double breaded, 
 fried and served with a brown Italian sauce. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BREADED MUTTON CHOP, SAUCE PERI- 
 GUEUX— Best neck chops trimmed, spread 
 with a thick truffle sauce; when set, double 
 breaded, fried; served with Perigueux sauce. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLETS FRIED, REFORME 
 GARNISH — Loin chops trimmed, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, 
 then in grated ham, again in eggs, then in a 
 mixture of grated ham and fresh breadcrumbs, 
 arranged in buttered baking pan, placed in a 
 medium oven, browned and basted with butter; 
 served with a garnish of shredded ham, slices 
 of carrots and truffles, also rings of whites of 
 hard boiled eggs in a sauce Supreme. 
 
 MUTTON STEW WITH VEGETABL ES— 
 Scrags and lean breasts of mutton cut in neat 
 pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, sauteed 
 a golden color in butter with a few small onions, 
 flour then added to form a roux, moisten with 
 boiling stock, then boil up and skim, season to 
 taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a clove of 
 garlic; when half done, cubes of carrot and 
 turnip then added, also some lima beans, sim- 
 mer till done; serve. (Varieties of stew as 
 above may be made by garnishing with rice 
 timbales and small stuffed tomatoes instead of 
 the vegetables; also instead of the vegetables, 
 use stewed tomatoes and an extra clove of gar- 
 lic; or using a plain garnish of either green 
 peas, flageolets, stringless beans, butter beans, 
 haricot beans, glazed new carrots, braised 
 stalks of celery, fried egg plant, rice and okras; 
 small white turnips hollowed out, steamed, 
 then filled with a macedoine, jardiniere; green 
 peas, flageolets, etc., potato croquettes, slices 
 of stuffed cucumber, stuffed artichoke bottoms, 
 etc., and named accordingly). REMEMBER 
 ALWAYS THAT IT IS THE STEWS 
 WHICH KEEP DOWN THE KITCHEN 
 EXPENSES, AND ARE ALWAYS IN 
 STRONG DEMAND BY THE PATRONS, 
 IF WELL COOKED, SEASONED, AND 
 VERY NEATLY GARNISHED; IT THEN 
 APPEALS TO THE EYE AND ITS SAVORI- 
 NESS TO THE PALATE. DO NOT LET 
 YOUR VEGETABLE OR FRY COOK JUST 
 DISH IT OUT ON TO THE PLATTER 
 WITH A LADLE SIMPLY BECAUSE IT IS 
 A STEW; PLACE THE MEAT NEATLY 
 ON A DISH, THEN GARNISH IT WITH 
 CARE. 
 
 HASHED MUTTON IN PEPPERS— Four lbs. 
 of cold cooked mutton cut in small dice, four 
 medium sized onions minced and lightly fried 
 with butter, then added to the mutton, mix, 
 then moisten with a little Espagnole sauce, 
 season to taste, then bring to a simmer. Two 
 dozen medium sized green peppers, tops cut off, 
 seeded, double blanched, then filled with the 
 hash; gratinate the tops, bake in a slow oven to 
 
 113 
 tomato sauce 
 
 a delicate brown; served with 
 poured around. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF MUTTON WITH POACH- 
 ED EGG — Cold roast mutton cut in small dice, 
 then placed in a sautoir and moistened with a 
 light consomme and a pint of demi-glaze to 
 each four lbs. of meat. Reduce it to about half 
 over a medium fire; half a dozen each of green 
 peppers and shallots minced and lightly fried 
 with butter then added to the hash, mix; fill in- 
 to fancy croustades to order, placing on top of 
 each a freshly cooked and trimmed poached 
 egg, garnish with watercress. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS WITH BUTTERED CORN 
 — Take a rack of mutton, remove the meat 
 from the bone in one piece, trim, cut it up into 
 four ounce cutlets, season with salt and pepper, 
 broil between a wire hinged broiler a golden 
 brown; meanwhile cut corn from hot cooked 
 cobs, season with salt and cream, fill into oval 
 dishes, cover the top with breadcrumbs and 
 sprinkle with melted butter, bake brown 
 quickly; when done, place a chop on the corn, a 
 few JulienDe potatoes around the edge, and 
 send to table. 
 
 MUTTON CUTLET SAUTE WITH FINE 
 HERBS — Trimmed chump chops fried with 
 butter, fried minced shallots, parsley and 
 mushrooms, sprinkled over when sending to 
 table. 
 
 MUTTON PIE, ENGLISH STYLE— Middle 
 neck chops trimmed and shortened, arranged 
 in a deep pie dish arcund the sides, the centre 
 filled with balls of potatoes or small new ones; 
 make a rich white sauce from strong mutton 
 stock, season with pepper and salt, chopped 
 parsley and capers, cover the mutton and pota- 
 toes with it plentifully, place on a short crust, 
 egg wash, bake one hour in a medium oven. 
 
 BRAISED BONED LOIN OF MUTTON— Take 
 a loin of mutton and remove the chine bone, 
 (this can be done without injuring the meat by 
 loosening the tenderloin first); where the bone 
 was, fill with a stiff forcemeat, roll over the 
 flap and tie with twine; arrange in a brasiere 
 with vegetables and spices, moisten with stock 
 enough to just cover the mutton, braise and 
 baste till done and glazy; serve in portions with 
 a garnish either of green peas, macedoine, jard- 
 inere, asparagus tips, new carrots, stringless 
 beans, small glazed turnips, stuffed and glazed 
 cucumbers, flowerets of cauliflower, etc It 
 should be noted that glaze should be over and 
 around slightly the meat portion, and the veg- 
 etable garnish should be moistened with either 
 a Veloute, Bechamel or Allemande sauce. 
 
 BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED— 
 Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone loosened 
 and the yellow gristle that runs the full length 
 of the chine removed, arranged in the brasiere 
 with carrot, onion, celery, parsley, whole cloves 
 
H4 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 and mace, moistened with stock just enough to 
 cover, braised and basted till done and glazy, 
 taken up, the braise strained and skimmed; 
 served in chops, each chop rolled in the glaze; 
 served garnished with small stuffed tomatoes, 
 Brussels sprouts, glazed small onions, flageo- 
 lets, green peas, asparagus tips, sauerkraut, 
 new carrots or turnips, potato quenelles and 
 stewed prunes (German style), potato cro- 
 quettes, Soubise puree, jardiniere or a mace- 
 doine of vegetables. 
 
 BROILED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED 
 — Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone and 
 gristle removed, cut into cutlets, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, dipped into melted butter, 
 broiled medium done of a golden color; served 
 on a triangle of toast, garnished with either 
 brown Italian, tomato, Provencale, Poivrade, 
 piquante. shallot or fines-herbes sauces, or with 
 mashed potatoes in shapes, mashed turnips, 
 spinach puree, endive puree, Soubise puree, 
 Bretonne beans puree, jardiniere, macedoine, 
 asparagus tips, Brussels sprouts sautees. green 
 peas, Julienne vegetables in Allemande sauce, 
 small new potatoes boiled, then moistened with 
 maitre d'hotel butter, puree of artichoke, chip- 
 olata garnish, French beans (haricots verts), 
 new lima beans, button mushrooms sautees, 
 stuffed olives. 
 
 NASTURTIUM— Name of a plant whose seeds 
 are extensively used as a substitute for pickled 
 capers. 
 
 NAVARIN — A French word given to a brown 
 mutton stew with vegetables, the same as our 
 "haricot of mutton." 
 
 NESSELRODE— Name given to an iced pud- 
 ding, named after a Russian statesman, com- 
 posed of a puree of chestnuts, whipped cream, 
 glazed fruits, a flavoring of maraschino, mixed 
 and frozen. 
 
 NEUFCHATEL — Name of a cream curd cheese 
 imported from Switzerland. But most of that 
 used in hotel life is made in our own dairies 
 and equally as good as the imported. 
 
 NIVERNAISE — Name given to a garnish of 
 Julienne vegetables mixed in Allemande sauce. 
 
 NOISETTE — French name for nut. Sometimes 
 seen on "bills of fare" as "Noisettes of mut- 
 ton", "Noisettes d'agneau (nuts of lamb)", 
 "Noisettes de veau (nuts of veal)". To prepare 
 this'dishl will quote LEON CIEUX, a Parisian 
 chef: 
 
 "NOISETTES OF LAMB, A LA MAIN- 
 TENON— Take the two fillets and small fil- 
 lets (filets mignons) from a saddle of lamb, take 
 out the nerves, trim them, and divide each fillet 
 into six parts and the small fillets into three 
 parts, beat them, season with salt and pepper, 
 saute them quickly on both sides with clear 
 butter; as soon as sauteed, put in a good Peri- 
 
 gorde sauce, this stops the wasting and pre- 
 vents the meat from giving up its gravy. Place 
 each noisette of lamb on a crust of breadcrumb 
 passed through butter and the shape of the 
 noisette; arrange in a crown on the dish, cover 
 each noisette with a Soubise a la Bechamel. 
 Powder with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- 
 ened with melted butter, glazed in a hot oven; 
 pour in the middle of the dish some Perigord 
 sauce, put on each noisettte a fine slice of truffle 
 and serve hot, the cooking must be quick. This 
 recipe is for twelve persons." 
 
 I will here quote the author of the EPICUR- 
 EAN, Charles Ranhofer. 
 
 "NOISETTES OF MUTTON, AU MADERE 
 — Cut eight chops of four ounces each from 
 two racks of mutton. Remove the noix (centre 
 of chop), beat them lightly, trim all to the same 
 size, season with salt and pepper. Heat four 
 ounces of butter in a frying pan, when it is very 
 hot add to it the noix, saute them over a quick 
 fire, taking care to turn them when they have 
 a good color, let them cook several minutes 
 more, arrange them on croutons of bread fried in 
 butter and of the same size as the noix. Dry 
 out the butter from the pan, add half a gill of 
 Madeira, cook it down, add a little brown sauce, 
 cook it down again until it is a light sauce, 
 pass through the strainer and pour on the 
 noix." 
 
 NOODLES— A stiff paste made with sifted flour 
 and yolks of eggs, then rolled out very thin in 
 sheets, place several sheets one on another, 
 then with a sharp knife cut in strips; for soups 
 or to be used for all purposes in place of mac- 
 aroni; for all the recipes given for macaroni, 
 noodles may be substituted; from the sheets 
 may be stamped out fancy shapes for decorating 
 raised pies, etc. 
 
 NOYEAU — Name of a very fine liqueur prepared 
 from the kernels of fruit stones, almonds, 
 brandy, gin, flavoring extracts and syrup. 
 
 NUTMEG— The kernel of the fruit of the nut- 
 meg tree. The fruit itself is in size and shape 
 that of a small pear, which on ripening, bursts, 
 exposing its kernel covered with a netting; this 
 netting is known as mace, the kernel itself as 
 nutmeg; it is used as a flavoring to soups, 
 sauces, puddings, custards, etc. The nutmegs 
 from PENANG are considered of most com- 
 mercial value. 
 
 OATMEAL — As the word implies it is the meal 
 of oats; the oat grains are skinned, dried, then 
 ground in a mill and placed into commerce as 
 coarse and fine oatmeal. This is then used to 
 make in conjunction with wheat flour, cakes, 
 biscuits, bread, gruel, drinks, mush, puddings, 
 thickening soups, etc., etc. A mistake is there- 
 fore made when writing "bills of fare" to say 
 "oatmeal porridge" unless you use the meal; 
 and seldom is the meal used. It is customary 
 nowadays to use rolled oats, flaked oats, and 
 the different names given by manufacturers, 
 
THF CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 "5 
 
 such as H. O., Quaker oats, etc., which are all 
 rolled and not meal. Groats is the proper name 
 for the dried oat grains which are neither 
 crushed or ground. 
 
 OKRA — Name of an American vegetable chiefly 
 grown in the South; of a seed pod shape like 
 the long pepper. It is preserved and canned, 
 this being generally used in making gumbo 
 soups when the fresh is not obtainable. The 
 fresh is trimmed at both ends, boiled in salted 
 boiling water till tender, taken up and drained, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper and melted butter and 
 served as a vegetable, or used as a garnish, or in 
 conjunction with other vegetables as a garnish. 
 The Creoles like it slippery, and after trimming 
 it they place it in a sautoir with just enough 
 water to moisten, cover with oiled paper, place 
 on the lid and stew it till tender and muscilag- 
 inous, then it is further seasoned with olive oil, 
 salt, pepper and a little minced green or red 
 peppers. Okras are esteemed stewed with 
 tomatoes, keeping the okras whole; also by tak- 
 ing peeled raw tomatoes and okras, cutting 
 them both into quarters, then stewing with 
 butter, pepper and salt; also the whole okras 
 trimmed, then stewed tender in a rich tomato 
 sauce; also tipped at both ends, breaded and 
 fried, like egg plant. 
 
 OKRA SALAD-Okras trimmed and boiled in boil- 
 ing salted water, then drained and cooled; strip- 
 ped endive washed and crisp arranged on dish, 
 the okras quartered and laid on top, the whole 
 sprinkled with a French salad dressing contain- 
 ing chopped chives. 
 
 OLIVES— The fruit of the olive tree, picked 
 green, prepared and salted, then packed into 
 barrels, kegs, etc., also put up in glass jars. Our 
 own California olives have bsen brought to such 
 perfection, that they are now found to be 
 superior to the imported European, French, 
 Spanish and Italian. Olive oil is prepared from 
 the ripe fruit. Olives are used as an appetizer, 
 either plain or stoned and stuffed; as a decor- 
 ative to salads, as a flavoring to sauces, as an 
 addition to garnitures, etc. 
 
 OLLA PODRIDA— One of the national dishes of 
 Spain; a rich soup stew, made in the style of a 
 pepper-pot. A large earthernware pot into 
 which is placed tomatoes, garlic, long peppers, 
 chick peas, pieces- of root vegetables, chopped 
 cabbage and endive, a piece of flank of beef, a 
 fowl, a piece of streaky bacon and sausages. 
 The sausages are made of equal quantities of 
 minced lean and fat pork, seasoned with garlic 
 and red pepper; when mixed, it is macerated in 
 dry sherry wine for four days till it has ab- 
 sorbed all it can, it is then filled into sausage 
 casings, tied in links, hung till dry in a cool air. 
 The contents of the pot are seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, moistened with water, placed in 
 
 medium oven and cooked till tender. It is 
 served as a family dish by placing the vegetables 
 at the bottom of a platter as a garnish to the 
 three meats, the sausages on top of the vege- 
 tables, and the broth poured over the whole. 
 
 OMELET — Slightly beaten eggs seasoned with 
 salt and a little melted butter so as to prevent 
 it from sticking to the pan in cooking; see that 
 the pan is free from any sticky substance on the 
 inside, bottom and flange; place in a little melted 
 butter, let it get hot (not burnt), pour in a ladle 
 of eggs, shuffle around till nearly set, then take 
 the handle in the left hand, depress the pan, 
 then with the right hand knock the handle near 
 the pan, and the omelet will roll up from the furth- 
 est end, thus forming a roll with pointed ends, 
 hold to the fire for a moment and the centre 
 will puff up, turn on to a platter, garnish one 
 end with a sprig of crisp cress or parsley and 
 send the plain omelet to the table at once. 
 I HAVE SAID POUR A LADLE OF EGGS, 
 BECAUSE I HAVE FOUND THAT THE 
 ORDERS ARE SERVED MORE EQUAL 
 BY ITS USE. HAVE A LADLE MADE 
 THAT WILL HOLD EQUAL TO THREE 
 LIGHTLY BEATEN EGGS. ONE LADLE- 
 FUL WILL BE FOUND THE RIGHT 
 QUANTITY PER PERSON. 
 
 OMELET WITH BACON— (Plain or with Pi- 
 quante sauce). Cut the bacon into small dice, 
 fry fairly well done, pour off the fat, pour in a 
 ladle of eggs, mix and form; served with a sprig 
 of green, or with Piquante sauce at the ends. 
 
 OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS— Roasted 
 kidneys cut in dice and made hot in a little 
 demi-glaze with chopped parsley, enclose the 
 mixture within the omelet; serve with a 
 Madeira sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH CEPES— Cut the cepes into 
 dice, fry in butter for a few minutes, pour off 
 the butter, add a ladle of eggs, form and serve 
 with a little Italian sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHEESE— Mix grated cheese 
 with the beaten eggs in proportion of one-third 
 cheese to two-thirds eggs, form the omelet; 
 when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a lit- 
 tle grated cheese on top of the omelet and 
 brown off quickly in oven or under a salaman- 
 der. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS— Blanch 
 the livers, then cut in dice, fry them lightly 
 with butter, minced shallots and mushrooms 
 for ten minutes, season with salt, pepper and 
 chopped parsley, enclose a spoonful within the 
 omelet while forming; served with Hanover 
 sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF — Scald, 
 drain and mince the dried beef, mix it with the 
 eggs, form the omelet; serve with cream sauce 
 poured around. 
 
n6 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 OMELET WITH HAM— Cooked minced ham 
 moistened with Madeira sauce enclosed within 
 the omelet. 2. Raw minced ham with a little 
 minced shallot and parsley fried till done, ladle 
 of eggs poured in, formed and served. 3, Minced 
 fried ham beaten up with the eggs, poured into 
 the omelet pan, formed and served. 
 
 OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS— Cut the 
 kidneys into small dice and fry them with 
 minced shallots in butter for three minutes, add 
 a little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, 
 enclose a spoonful within the omelet while 
 forming; serve with Madeira sauce poured 
 around. 2. Stew the kidneys in a sherry wine 
 flavored brown sauce, season well with red 
 pepper or a minced red pepper; when done, 
 strain the sauce on to some unsweetened apple 
 sauce passed through a fine sieve; into the 
 beaten eggs put some finely chopped green 
 mint, enclose a spoonful of kidneys within the 
 omelet while forming; serve with plenty of the 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS-- Cooked 
 sweetbreads cut in dice, simmered in mush- 
 room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the 
 omelet while forming; served with mushroom 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS— If fresh 
 mushrooms, peel them, trim, cut into dice and 
 fry with butter; if canned, cut them in thin 
 slices and fry, drain, then mix them into 
 Madeira sauce; enclose a spoonful within the 
 omelet; serve with a spoonful of mushrooms in 
 sauce at the ends of the omelet. 
 
 OMELET WITH SHRIMPS, MEXICAN 
 STYLE — Take fresh cooked or canned 
 shrimps, cut in halves, mix with some finely 
 chopped green peppers, put them into a Vel- 
 oute!: sauce containing some lobster butter, sim- 
 mer for five minutes, enclose a spoonful within 
 the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place two 
 whole shrimps on top, and pour some of the 
 sauce around. 
 
 OMELET WITH FINE HERBS— Beat up with 
 the eggs some finely minced shallots, thyme 
 marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season 
 with salt and pepper, form the omelet, and 
 serve plain or with fine herbs sauce poured 
 around. 
 
 SPANISH OMELET — Finely shred onions, 
 minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, 
 solid tomatoes with the juice and seeds ex- 
 pressed, cut in small pieces, the whole fried 
 with butter for five minutes, then add tomato 
 sauce, season with salt and pepper, reduce till 
 thick, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, 
 turn on to the serving dish, garnish the top 
 with fancy strips of pimentoes and place a 
 spoonful of the mixture at each end of the 
 omelet. 
 
 OMELET WITH SPINACH— Beat some puree 
 of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and 
 pepper, form and serve. 
 
 OMELET WITH PARSLEY— Mix some finely 
 chopped parsley with the beaten eggs, season 
 with salt and pepper, form and serve plain or 
 with Veloute sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH TOMATOES— Stew fresh or 
 canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, 
 salt and pepper till of a thick pulp, enclose a 
 spoonful within the omelet; serve with tomato 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE— Take 
 some boiled rice grains and moisten them with 
 a good tomato puree, enclose some within the 
 omelet; serve with tomato puree poured around. 
 
 OMELET WITH OYSTERS— Scald the oys- 
 ters, cut them in quarters, place them into a 
 rich thick oyster sauce, enclose a spoonful with- 
 in the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place 
 three whole scalded oysters on top, pour some 
 oyster sauce over the whole and sprinkle with 
 parsley dust. 
 
 OMELET WITH FRENCH OR SMALL 
 GREEN PEAS — Simmer some peas in reduced 
 Veloute sauce with a little minced green mint, 
 till thick, enclose some within the omelet, turn 
 on to the serving dish, garnish each end with 
 more of the peas and the sides with cream 
 sauce. 
 
 OMELET WITH EGG PLANT— Cut the egg 
 plant into dice, fry it with butter, when done, 
 add a little meat glaze, enclose within the ome- 
 let; serve with a good brown sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES— 
 Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables (or 
 use canned ones) boil till tender, drain, moisten 
 with a little demi glaze or sauce Supreme, en- 
 close within the omelet, turn on to the serving 
 dish, decorate the top of omelet with more of 
 the vegetables and pour some of the sauce 
 around. 
 
 OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS-Take 
 cooked asparagus tips, reheat them in Alle- 
 mande sauce, enclose within the omelet, turn 
 on to serving dish, decorate the top with more 
 tips, and serve with Allemande sauce at the 
 sidee. 
 
 OMELET WITH OLIVES — Stuffed ol i v e s 
 sliced, heated in a rich Madeira sauce, enclosed 
 within the omelet, turned on to serving dish, 
 the top of omelet decorated with slices of stuffed 
 olives; served with Madeira sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH ONIONS— Fry some thin 
 slices of onions with a clove of garlic in butter, 
 enclose within the omelet; serve with Souilbise 
 sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN— Take 
 minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Vel- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 oute sauce, make hot, enclose within the ome- 
 let; serve with Veloute sauce at the sides. 
 CREOLE OMELET— Chopped green peppers, 
 onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, 
 made hot in a thick tomato sauce, enclosed 
 within the omelet; served with a spoonful of 
 the mixture at the sides. 
 ALGERIENNE OMELET— Rissoto moistened 
 and reheated with tomato puiee, enclosed with- 
 in the omelet; served with tomato puree at the 
 sides. 
 OMELET WITH TRUFFLES— Slices of truf- 
 fles moistened with truffle sauce, enclosed with- 
 in the omelet; served with truffle sauce at the 
 sides. 
 OMELET WITH PUREE OF GAME— A rich 
 game puree is enclosed within the omelet; 
 served with game sauce at the sides. 
 INDIAN OMELET— Minced onion lightly fried 
 then mixed with the beaten eggs, adding a 
 seasoning of curry powder and a spoonful of 
 thick cream, boiled rice enclosed within the 
 omelet; served with curry sauce at the sides. 
 OMELET WITH CHICKEN PUREE— A rich 
 puree of chicken enclosed within the omelet; 
 served with Veloute sauce at the sides. 
 MILAN AISE OMELET— Boiled macaroni 
 chopped fine, mixed with Parmesan cheese and 
 a spoonful of tomato puree, enclosed within the 
 omelet; served with Milanaise sauce at the 
 sides. 
 OMELET WITH SHRIMP PASTE— Omelet 
 spread with shrimp paste just before forming; 
 served with shrimp sauce at the sides. 
 SHRIMP OMELET— Chopped shrimps in Au- 
 rora sauce enclosed within the omelet, turned 
 on to the serving dish, the top decorated with 
 coiled shrimps; served with Aurora sauce at the 
 sides. 
 OMELET WITH SC ALLOPS-Scallops blanched 
 then fried with butter, cut in dice, moistened 
 with Bechamel sauce, enclosed within the ome- 
 let; served with the top decorated with a whole 
 fried scallop, Bechamel sauce at the sides. 
 OMELET FINANCIERE— A spoonful of finan- 
 ciere garnish enclosed within the omelet; served 
 with some more of the garnish at the sides. 
 OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD— Useful to 
 use up the remains of entree "Calf's head, tur- 
 tle style". Cut the meat small, enclose within the 
 omelet; served with more of the garnish at the 
 sides. 
 OMELET WITH CAPON— Cold capon cut in 
 dice and moistened with Veloute sauce, enclosed 
 within the omelet; served with Supreme sauce 
 at the sides. 
 OMELET WITH CALF'S BRAINS— Scalded 
 and trimmed calf's brains cut in dice and 
 moistened with Hollandaise sauce, enclosed 
 
 within the omelet; served with some Hollan- 
 daise sauce at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH TURKEY LIVERS— Braised 
 turkey livers cut in scallops and moistened 
 with fine herbs sauce, enclosed within the 
 omelet; served with more of the sauce at the 
 sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH ANCHOVIES— Filleted an- 
 chovies cut in shreds, moistened with Aurora 
 or Genevoise sauces, enclosed within the ome- 
 let; served with the sauce used at the sides, the 
 top of the omelet to be garnished with strips of 
 the anchovies in lattice work form. 
 
 OMELET WITH FOIE-GRAS— Foie-gras cut 
 in dice with a little chopped truffle peelings, 
 moistened with Madeira sauce, enclosed with- 
 in the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 
 sides, the top of the omelet to be decorated 
 with a slice each of foie-gras and truffle. 
 
 OMELET CHIPOLATA— A spoonful of chipo- 
 lata garnish (see garnishes), enclosed within 
 the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the 
 sides, the ends of the omelet to be garnished 
 with Parisienne potatoes. 
 
 OMELET WITH JELLY— With the omelet 
 mixture add a spoonful of cream and a very 
 little sugar; before starting to roll the omelet, 
 spread with jelly, then roll it up; when turned 
 on the serving dish, dust with powdered sugar, 
 mark the top in lattice work style with a red hot 
 wire, place a little more jelly at the sides and 
 serve. 
 
 OMELET WITH MERINGUE— Little cream 
 and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, before 
 rolling, spread with jam, then form; when on the 
 serving dish, spread with meringue, decorate 
 the meringue with point of knife, place in oven 
 till of a delicate fawn color and serve at once. 
 
 OMELET WITH CUSTARD CREAM— Little 
 cream and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, a 
 spoonful of rich custard cream enclosed within 
 the omelet, turned on to the serving dish; served 
 with a little apricot puree at the sides. 
 
 OMELET WITH MARMALADE— Little cream 
 and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs; before 
 rolling, spread with fruit marmalade, form, 
 place on serving dish, dust with powdered 
 sugar, then place in hot oven to glaze, or glaze 
 with a salamander. 
 OMELET WITH RUM- Little cream and sugar 
 mixed with the beaten eggs, omelet formed, 
 turned on to the serving dish, dusted with 
 powdered sugar, marked with a red hot wire, 
 rum made warm and poured around the omelet; 
 then set on fire, either at the entrance to the 
 dining room or on the table at the request of 
 the guest. 
 OMELET SOUFFLE— One teaspoonful of sugar 
 to each egg, yolks and whites whipped separ- 
 ately, the sugar and a teaspoonful of cream 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 with the yolks, then all stirred together, poured 
 into oval dish or pan, baked partly on top of 
 the range, then finished in oven; when nicely 
 purled, dust with powdered sugar, and glaze 
 with a salamander; the omelet mixture may be 
 flavored with most any liqueur or cordial. 
 
 ONIONS FRIED— Large sized onions peeled, 
 cut in fairly thick slices, the rings then separ- 
 ated, seasoned with salt, dipped in milk, then 
 shaken up with flour till coated, fried till done 
 in very hot deep fat like French fried potatoes; 
 when done, drained, sprinkled with salt; served 
 plain or as a garnish. 
 
 ONIONS FRIED— Thinly sliced onions fried 
 with butter, bacon fat, beef dripping, etc., till 
 well done and brown, surplus fat then poured 
 off; used as a garnish to steaks. 
 
 ONIONS IN CREAM SAUCE — Small onions 
 peeled, boiled in salted water till tender, taken 
 up and drained, then put into cream sauce; used 
 as a vegetable. 
 
 BOILED ONIONS— Medium sized onions peeled, 
 boiled well done in salted water, taken up and 
 well drained, kept very hot; served with a spoon- 
 ful of melted butter poured over them; used as 
 vegetable. 
 
 CREAMED ONIONS — Small button onions 
 peeled, steamed till tender, drained, then put 
 into a Poulette sauce; served as a garnish or 
 vegetable. 
 
 BAKED ONIONS STUFFED— Large onions 
 peeled, steamed till nearly done, centres re- 
 moved in ONE PIECE which can be used 
 the following day for the recipe preceding, the 
 aperture filled with sausage meat, baked and 
 basted till brown and glazy; served with a 
 little meat gravy poured around. 
 
 ONIONS ON TOAST— Onions steamed till very 
 well done, then mashed through a colander or 
 tamis, seasoned, simmered with meat gravy; 
 fancy cut slices of toast then spread thickly 
 with the onions and served very hot, (a good 
 thing for a cold on the chest). 
 
 STEWED ONIONS— Onions cut in quarters, 
 steamed till half done, then simmered in a pars- 
 ley butter sauce till done; served as a vegetable. 
 
 BRAISED ONIONS— Medium sized onions 
 peeled, blanched, drained, arranged in a pan 
 or brasiere, baked and basted with slices of 
 bacon and its fat till brown and glazy; served 
 as a garnish or vegetable. 
 
 ONION SAUCE— Well boiled onions mashed 
 through a tamis, slightly moistened with sauce 
 made from mutton stock; to be served with 
 boiled mutton. 
 
 ONION SAUCE— Onions peeled and parboiled, 
 then cut up small and blanched again, then 
 allowed to simmer in a white sauce if to be 
 served with boiled meat, and in a brown sauce 
 if to be served with roast or braised meat. 
 
 GLAZED ONIONS— Peeled onions of a uniform 
 size arranged in a shallow sautoir, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper and sugar, slightly moistened 
 with stock, covered with a sheet of buttered 
 paper, simmered till done and brown, and the 
 liquor to a glaze. 
 
 ONION PUREE — Onions peeled, blanched, 
 drained, chopped, placed in a sautoir with but- 
 ter and lightly fried without color, flour then 
 added to form a roux, moisten with white or 
 brown stock according to whether it is to be 
 served with boiled or roast meat, simmer till 
 very tender, season with salt and a little sugar, 
 then rub the whole through a tamis. 
 
 PICKLED ONIONS— Small button onions peeled, 
 placed in crocks, boiling brine poured over 
 them, allowed co stand for 24 hours, brine then 
 drained off, onions then covered with scalding 
 hot (not boiling) cider vinegar spiced to taste 
 with mace, chilies, whole peppers and a little 
 horseradish. 
 
 ONION VINEGAR— Two quarts of white wine 
 vinegar, one dessert spoonful of salt, two dessert 
 spoonfuls of granulated sugar, two pounds of 
 peeled Spanish onions; grate the onions, mix 
 them with the sugar and salt, allow to macerate 
 for three hours, then pour over the vinegar; fill 
 fruit jars 73 full, screw the lid on, shske well 
 every day for a couple of weeks, then strain 
 off through cheese cloth, fill into bottles and 
 cork tight; this is very useful when a delicate 
 onion flavor is desired with mayonnaise, salads, 
 etc. 
 
 ONION SALAD— Take either the Bermuda or 
 Spanish onion, peel, slice in rings % of an 
 inch thick, steam till half cooked, let become 
 very cold; serve on lettuce leaves with Ravigote 
 sauce. 
 
 ONION SOUP WITH CRUSTS— Make a thin 
 cream of chicken soup, thinly slice half a pound 
 of onions to each gallon of soup, fry them with 
 butter to a golden color, then add them to the 
 soup and simmer for ten minutes; served with 
 a small unsweetened rusk to each plate. 
 
 PUREE OF BERMUDA ONIONS— Bermuda 
 onions lightly fried with butter and little sugar, 
 flour added to form a roux, moistened with 
 chicken stock, simmered till done, the whole 
 then rubbed through a tamis, and added to J^ 
 of its bulk of cream or cream sauce; served 
 with croutons. 
 
 A variation of the above recipe is, after it is 
 passed through the tamis, place it back on 
 the range, bring to the boil, then add a rich 
 liaison of egg yolks and cream, finish with a 
 little very finely chopped parsley, 
 
 ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE CANAPES— 
 A cream soup made of white stock with plenty 
 of minced onions boiled in it till very tender, 
 adding a little chopped parsley; fancy cut slices 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 119 
 
 of toast spread with cheese and melted on in 
 the oveu, one in each plate, the soup poured 
 over it and sent to table. 
 
 BROWN ONION PUREE— Fried onions, flour 
 added to form a roux and browned, moistened 
 with roast veal gravy and stock, the whole then 
 rubbed through a tamis; served with croutons. 
 
 ONION PUREE WITH FISH QUENELLES— 
 Make the white "Puree of Bermuda onions" of 
 a preceding recipe, and serve with quenelles of 
 fish that may be on hand. 
 
 BUTTON ONION SOUP WITH PEAS — A 
 cream of chicken soup with plenty of very small 
 button onions boiled in it, also fresh or canned 
 green peas. 
 
 OPOSSUM — A Southern animal found in hollow 
 trees, hunted for by trained dogs, is killed, 
 scalded, scraped, split, skin scored like a suckling 
 pig, arranged in a pan surrounded with peeled 
 and split sweet potatoes, roasted and basted till 
 done; served with the potatoes and corn bread. 
 
 ORANGE JAM — Four pounds of oranges, one 
 pound of lemons, four pounds of sugar, one 
 pound of butter, 32 yolks and 4 whole eggs. 
 The fruit grated, the juice extracted, the juice, 
 sugar and grated rinds then boiled together, 
 butter melted and beaten up with the yolks and 
 eggs, added to the boiling juice, constantly 
 stirring till of a jam consistency; used for pie 
 filling, layer cake spreading, filling darioles, 
 cheesecakes, patty-pan tarts, etc., etc. 
 
 BAKED ORANGE PUDDING— Two pounds of 
 stale sponge cake; juice of 8, and grated rinds 
 of 2 oranges, 1 cup of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of 
 melted butter, 6 beaten eggs, 1 pint of milk. 
 Boil the milk, pour it to the sponge cake, whip 
 it, add the juice, grated rinds and other ingre- 
 dients, fill into molds, bake; serve with orange 
 sauce. 
 
 ORANGE FRITTERS— Large oranges peeled, 
 pith removed, pulled into quarters, simmered 
 for five minutes in boiling syrup, drained, 
 dipped in frying batter (see batters), fried in hot 
 deep fat, taken up, dusted with powdered sugar; 
 served with claret sauce. 
 
 COMPOTE OF ORANGES— Small oranges (the 
 seedless variety) peeled, pith removed, blanched, 
 drained, blanched again, then simmered in the 
 left over syrup of the preceding recipe, the 
 peel of the oranges boiled tender in two or three 
 waters, then finely shredded and added to the 
 syrup; when done, allow to become cold; served, 
 an orange decorated on top with the shredded 
 peel, the syrup poured around. 
 
 CANAPE OF ORANGES— Oranges peeled and 
 the pith removed, pulled apart in sections, the 
 sections boiled for a few minutes in syrup, 
 taken up and arranged on fancy shapes of bread 
 that have been fried a golden brown with butter. 
 
 ORANGE PIE — One dozen sound oranges cut 
 into thin slices, seeds and cores removed, cov- 
 ered with six quarts of water, allowed to soak 
 for 24 hours, then put all on to boil; boil slowly 
 for three hours, then add seven pounds of 
 granulated sugar, and boil till clear, pour off 
 into a crock, allow to set, and you then have 
 the filling. Line pie plates with puff paste 
 trimmings, making a raised edge, spread well 
 with the filling, bake; when done, spread with 
 an orange flavored custard, on it pipe a fancy 
 meringue, brown quickly; serve. This is one 
 of the most delicious pies it is possible to 
 make. 
 
 ORANGE MARMALADE— 24 oranges, 8 lem- 
 ons; oranges peeled and the pith removed, the 
 peel then boiled till tender, about three 
 hours, changing the water three times, the 
 first time it is put on in cold water, the chang- 
 ing time in boiling water; when tender, drain, 
 shred very fine; meanwhile extract every drop 
 of juice from all the oranges and lemons, meas- 
 ure it, then add one-fourth of its bulk of clear 
 water, measure it again, and to every pint, add 
 one and a half pounds of granulated sugar, 
 then the shredded rinds, bring to the boil, 
 skim, then continue boiling till thick enough to 
 set. 
 
 JELLIED ORANGES— Oranges with the stem 
 end cut to form a lid, emptied of their contents 
 with a spoon, the shells then soaked overnight, 
 they are then drained, then half filled with a 
 colored fruit jelly and allowed to set, then filled 
 with another colored fruit jelly, closed, set 
 away in ice till firm; served by cutting in halves 
 or quarters, and arranging on serving dish with 
 the colors alternating. 
 
 ORANGE SAUCE— Roast duck carcasses boiled 
 down with some Espagnole sauce, then 
 strained, orange juice then added to taste for 
 the quantity made, finely shredded and boiled 
 rinds then added. [The natural sauce for roast 
 domestic ducks]. 
 
 ORANGES WITH RICE— Quartered and peeled 
 oranges with the pith and seeds removed, 
 boiled in syrup till tender, the syrup then 
 thickened with corn starch and allowed to sim- 
 mer till clear; when done, add a little maras- 
 chino; to serve, dry boiled rice grains arranged 
 as a border on an oval platter, the rice sprink- 
 led with finely chopped pistachio nuts, the 
 oranges and sauce in the centre, (this is always 
 an acceptable sweet entree). 
 
 ORANGE TRIFLE— Slice of orange-flavored 
 sponge cake spread with marmalade, this spread 
 with custard, the custard piped with whipped 
 cream, the edges sprinkled with finely chopped 
 pistachio nuts. 
 
 ORTOLAN — A very small game bird, a native of 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Southern Europe. Our rice bird does duty for 
 it here generally. 
 
 ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADE— T h e bird 
 plucked and singed, neck and gizzard only of 
 the inside removed, season with nutmeg, salt 
 and pepper; large truffles hollowed out, the 
 bird placed in the truffle, arranged in a sautoir, 
 with bacon over the breasts, moistened with a 
 mirepoix and some Madeira wine, cooked about 
 twenty minutes, taken up and placed in a fancy 
 bread croustade; reduce the sauce in sautoir to 
 a demi-glaze, remove the bacon, mask with the 
 glaze; serve surrounded with watercress. 
 
 ORTOLANS IN CASES— Make (or use the 
 bought ones) a fancy paste croustade case, line 
 it with foie-gras; ortolans plucked and singed, 
 feet, beak and skin of head removed, truss, 
 season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, place one 
 in each lined case, cover with a strip of fat 
 bacon, roast in moderate oven about 20 min- 
 utes, remove the bacon; serve with a spoonful 
 of Madeira sauce over the bird. 
 
 BROILED ORTOLANS— Pluck and singe the 
 birds, wipe with a damp cloth, remove beak 
 and feet, truss, but do not draw, season with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg, wrap in a buttered 
 paper case, broil over a raked clean space of 
 the grill, in ten minutes the bird will be done; 
 serve with the paper, surrounded with water- 
 cress, paper to be removed by waiter at the 
 guest's request, just as about to be eaten. 
 
 ROAST ORTOLANS— The birds plucked and 
 singed, wiped, slit made in the side and the 
 gizzard removed, cut off beak and feet, skin 
 the head, which place inside where the gizzard 
 was, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
 wrap around each a thin slice of bacon, or 
 wrap each in a vine leaf if procurable, roast 
 about ten minutes; serve on a fancy cut slice of 
 bread fried a delicate brown with butter, pour 
 round a rich Madeira sauce. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF ORTOLANS— Pluck, singe 
 and wipe the birds, remove the gizzard, rub 
 the body with lemon, then 10II each one in soft 
 maitre d'hotel butter, then in grated bread 
 crumbs (not cracker dust), then thread them on 
 a skewer, broil; serve on toast buttered with 
 the drippings from the broiling, garnish with 
 lemon and watercress. 
 
 FRIED ORTOLANS— The birds plucked and 
 singed, feet and beak removed, gizzards drawn, 
 head skinned and placed where gizzard was, 
 rubbed with lemon, dipped in maitre d'hotel 
 butter, then in grated breadcrumbs, then in 
 beaten eggs and again in the crumbs, plunged in 
 boiling hot fat, fried ten minutes; served with 
 a rich brown Italian sauce. 
 
 TRUFFLED ORTOLANS— Pluck and singe 
 the birds, remove beak, feet and gizzard, skin 
 the head and place where gizzard was, arrange 
 
 them in a serving casserole, moisten with a rich 
 truffle sauce containing plenty of sliced truffles, 
 bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve in 
 the casserole. 
 
 OX-TAIL SOUP— Saw the tails into neat pieces 
 half inch thick, soak over night in salted water; 
 with a large sized column cutter stamp out 
 slices of white and yellow turnip, carrot; drain 
 and wipe the pieces of ox-tail, then saute them 
 with the vegetables, add them to a rich brown 
 stock flavored with sweet herbs and celery, 
 simmer till tails are tender and gelatinous, 
 then thicken the soup with roux, season with 
 salt and pepper, port wine and mushroom cat- 
 sup. 
 
 CLEAR OX-TAIL SOUP— A consomm^ of rich 
 brown stock made with roast meat, poultry and 
 a flavor of ham, in which is slices of ox-tail and 
 vegetables as in the preceding recipe, finish 
 with a flavoring of port wine. 
 
 HARICOT OF OX-TAILS— Tails separated in 
 their natural joints, the large end split, placed 
 in a deep sautoir with fat from the stock top- 
 pings and some sliced onions, fry a nice brown, 
 stock then added to well cover, stewed for 
 about three hours, then taken up, the stock 
 strained and freed from grease, the tails placed 
 in another sautoir with slices of braised carrot 
 and turnip, sauce made from the strained 
 stock, then poured over the tails and vegeta- 
 bles, season with salt, pepper, mushroom cat- 
 sup and port wine; served within a border of 
 mashed potatoes, sprinkling the tails with finely 
 chopped parsley. 
 
 CURRY OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their 
 natural joints, the large end split, lightly fried 
 with onion, then taken up into a sautoir, covered 
 with a rich curry sauce, simmered till tender; 
 serve within a border of boiled grains of rice. 
 
 SAUTE OF OX-TAILS— Tails separated in their 
 natural joints, the large end split, seasoned 
 with powdered mixed herbs, rolled in flour, 
 saute£d a light brown with butter, taken up in- 
 to a sautoir, covered with sauce Robert, sim- 
 mered till tender; served garnished with a 
 braised jardiniere of vegetables. 
 
 OX-TONGUE BOILED— Salted ox-tongue, put 
 to boil in cold water and cooked till tender, 
 according to size, but generally about three 
 hours, then take up and skin, remove the bones 
 from the root and trim off the waste fat, then 
 keep hot in seasoned broth; to serve, cut in thin 
 slices, place them overlapping each other down 
 the centre of the dish, first dipping each slice 
 into a jellied gravy or demi-glaze, then garnish 
 the sides with either a puree of spinach, flageo- 
 let beans, a macedoine or jardiniere of vegeta- 
 bles, Brussels sprouts, pieces of cauliflower, 
 stringless green beans or asparagus points. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BRAISED FRESH OX TONGUE— Blanch and 
 trim a good sized tongue, then place it in a 
 braisiere with slices of carrot, turnip, celery 
 onions, a few cloves, bay leaf, mace, salt, pep- 
 per and a glass of cooking brandy, cover with 
 good stock, then biaise slowly till tender; when 
 done, taken up and placed in a sautoir, the 
 braise then strained and skimmed, then mixed 
 with some Madeira sauce and reduced to half 
 glaze, this is then poured over the tongue and 
 kept hot in it; served in thin slices overlapping 
 each other down the centre of dish, covered 
 with the glaze, and garnished with small que- 
 nelles or croquettes of potatoes. 
 
 SMOKED OX-TONGUE, GERMAN STYLE— 
 Smoked tongue soaked over night in cold water, 
 then scrubbed, parboiled for half an hour, taken 
 up and trimmed, then placed in a sautoir with 
 well washed sauer-kraut, onion stuck with 
 cloves, carrot and a bunch of soup herbs; mois- 
 ten with stock, lay slices of fat salt pork over 
 the top, put on the lid and place in a medium 
 oven, cook till tongue is tender, about two 
 hours, take up; serve in thin slices with Poiv 
 rade sauce, flanked with the sauer-kraut. 
 
 BOILED SMOKED TONGUE, SAUCE PI- 
 QUANTE — Smoked tongue soaked overnight 
 in cold water, then scrubbed, put to boil in 
 cold water, cooked till tender, taken up, skinned 
 and trimmed; served in slices with Piquante 
 sauce, garnished with gherkins. 
 
 BRAISED FRESH TONGUE, SAUCE ITAL- 
 IAN — Fresh ox-tongue put to boil in cold 
 water, boiled one hour, taken up, skinned and 
 trimmed, then larded with seasoned strips of 
 fat pork and lean strips cf ham, arranged in 
 braisiere with sliced vegetables, herbs, spices 
 and pieces of fat bacon, moistened with stock, 
 braised till tender, taken up, the braise re- 
 duced, strained and skimmed, then added to a 
 thick rich brown Italian sauce, the tongue 
 served in slices with the sauce and garnished 
 with sauteed button mushrooms. 
 
 OYSTER STEW— Bulk oysters (selects) for 
 hotels when served for dinners, breakfasts, sup- 
 pers, luncheons, and catering parties. Counts 
 for restaurant orders, club and European plan 
 orders. The oysters scalded in their own 
 liquor, taken up, the liquor skimmed and 
 poured back to the oysters, milk brought to the 
 boil; bowl or serving dish containing a piece of 
 GOOD butter, salt, dash of red pepper; oysters 
 and liquor poured to it, then filled up with 
 boiling milk; served with oyster crackers: a dish 
 of finely shred cabbage is sometimes served 
 with it- -but why? 
 
 CREAM STEW — Prepared as above, using 
 cream instead of milk. 
 
 PLAIN STEW — Same as oyster stew above, us- 
 ing more oyster liquor and no milk. 
 
 DRY STEW — Same as preceding, no milk and 
 but little oyster liquor. 
 
 BOX STEW — Dry stew of the very largest 
 oysters placed on a slice of buttered toast, then 
 boiling cream with a little butter poured over 
 the whole. 
 
 BOSTON STEW— Simply a milk stew of count 
 oysters, but the oysters on toast as in box stew. 
 
 INDIAN STEW— Box stew, but using equal 
 parts of chicken curry sauce with the cream. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA STEW— Very large oysters 
 in their shells placed on a very hot grill; mean- 
 time scald and skim some oyster liquor, season 
 it with salt, red pepper and butter; when the 
 oysters are broiled, remove them from their 
 shells, place them in the boiling liquor; serve 
 in soup plate, garnished with strips of buttered 
 toast. 
 
 BROILED SHELL OYSTERS— Scrub the shells 
 clean, lay them on a very hot grill, when they 
 open their shells, take them up and remove the 
 flat shell, also loosen the oyster from the deep 
 shell, place a few drops of melted butter or 
 maitre d'hotel butter on each oyster, then 
 serve very hot. 
 
 BROILED OYSTERS— Very large oysters wiped 
 dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in 
 flour, arranged between a wire hinged broiler, 
 brush with melted butter, broil till done, bast- 
 ing with butter while broiling; serve overlap- 
 ping each other on buttered toast, garnish with 
 cress and quartered lemons. 
 
 BROILED OYSTERS BREADCRUMBED— 
 Same way as the preceding, but after dipping 
 in flour, they are dipped in beaten eggs, then 
 rolled in bread (not cracker) crumbs. 
 
 DEVILLED OYSTERS — Oysters scalded, 
 drained, cut in squares, the liquor with a little 
 cream made into a thick butter sauce with an 
 added egg yolk or two; season with salt, red 
 pepper and chopped parsley, then add the oys- 
 ters, fill into large deep oyster shells, then 
 strew the top with breadcrumbs and melted 
 butter, bake off a delicate brown and serve very 
 hot. 
 
 PANNED OYSTERS— Another form of dry 
 stew; oysters washed and drained, very hot 
 frying pan with a little melted butter, oysters 
 thrown in and shuffled about till they sizzle, 
 turned out into a small hot soup plate, season 
 with salt and cayenne. 
 
 ROAST SHELL OYSTERS-The shells scrubbed 
 clean, arranged in a baking pan, placed in a 
 very hot oven; when they open, remove the 
 flat shell and loosen the oyster from the deep 
 shell, place a little melted butter in each, serve 
 quickly with strip of hot buttered toast aside. 
 
 SCALLOPED OYSTERS— Baking pan inch and 
 a half deep, brushed with butter, oyster crack- 
 ers rolled fine with rolling pin, the buttered 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 pan well lined with them, oysters drained, laid 
 all over the rolled crackers, seasoned lightly 
 with salt and pepper (mixed), then well cov- 
 ered with more of the crackers, this then 
 sprinkled well with a mixture of oyster liquor, 
 milk and melted butter, then another layer of 
 oysters, season as before, cover with the rolled 
 crackers, moisten well with the mixed liquors, 
 bake quickly well done, but a delicate brown; 
 cut out in squares; serve very hot, garnish with 
 cress and lemon. [For individual orders in 
 scallop shells, they should be prepared the 
 same way]. 
 STEAMED OYSTERS— Shell oysters well 
 scrubbed, placed in a steamer, turn on full 
 steam, time three minutes; meantime take a 
 small deep soup plate, in it have melted butter, 
 
 bread and bacon, fry; serve on toast with 
 m&itre d'hotel butter and quartered lemon. 
 
 CROUSTADE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 
 in their own liquor, taken up, the liquor then 
 added to equal quantities of Veloute and an- 
 chovy sauces, reduce till thick, then add the 
 oysters, fill into fancy croustades, sprinkle 
 over the tops a mixture of grated Parmesan 
 cheese and breadcrumbs, bake a delicate 
 brown in a quick oven and serve on hot plate 
 with paper doily. 
 
 OYSTERS BAKED WITH MUSHROOMS— 
 Fricassee the oysters and mushrooms, having 
 the sauce thick, fill into individual molds or 
 shells, sprinkle the top with mixed cheese and 
 breadcrumbs, bake a delicate brown; serve 
 very hot. 
 
 salt and a dash of red pepper, open out the 
 
 oysters and their liquor into it; serve very hot FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 
 
 with strips of buttered toast. till plump in boiling milk, taken up, butter 
 
 GLAZED OYSTERS ON TOAST-Large oysters melted in sautoir and allowed to frizzle with- 
 
 wiped dry, sauteed quickly with butter, take up, 
 pour the liquor from the sauteeing into a rich 
 Madeira sauce, adding a piece of glaze, reduce 
 this rapidly to half glaze; have the serving 
 platter hot with strip of buttered toast down 
 the centre, dip the oysters into the half glaze 
 aud arrange them overlapping each other on 
 the toast, garnish with cress and lemon. 
 
 out becoming colored, flour then added to form 
 a roux, made into thick sauce with the milk, 
 seasoned with salt, red pepper, lemon juice and 
 a dash of Harvey sauce, finished with a liaison 
 of egg yolks and cream. Hot serving platter, 
 buttered toast down the centre, oysters dipped 
 in the sauce, placed overlapping each other down 
 the toast; served with more of the sauce at 
 the sides. 
 
 BACON COATED OYSTERS, FRIED— Large 
 oysters wiped dry, very thin slices of parboiled BA KED OYSTERS WITH CHEESE— Oysters 
 bacon rolled round the oysters and pinned with wi P ed dl T. then rolled in sifted breadcrumbs 
 
 a toothpick, dipped in batter, fried, toothpick 
 withdrawn; served with tomato sauce. 
 SAUCE COATED OYSTERS, FRIED— Large 
 oysters wiped dry, dipped into a thick Villeroi 
 sauce, allowed to set, then dipped into beaten 
 eggs, rolled well in sifted breadcrumbs, fried a 
 golden brown; served garnished with quartered 
 lemon. 
 
 that are mixed with Parmesan cheese and 
 chopped parsley, seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per, moistened with little white wine; arrange 
 in scallop shell, strew with more cheese, bake 
 a delicate brown and serve very hot. 
 
 FRIED OYSTERS— Count oysters rolled in 
 cracker dust or yellow corn meal, then in beat- 
 en eggs, then in the meal again, fried; served 
 with quartered lemon. 
 
 OYSTERS STUFFED AND BROILED— One 
 pint cf egg yolks stirred without much beating, FANCY FRY- Count oysters wiped dry, sea 
 
 poured into a buttered pan and steamed till set 
 firm, allowed to cool, then grate them; one 
 pound of cooked fat salt pork minced very fine, 
 added to the grated yolks with some chopped 
 parsley ; season to taste with salt and pepper; 
 five dozen large oysters wiped dry, slit made in 
 their sides, stuffed with the mixture, rolled in 
 sifted breadcrumbs, then rolled in melted but- 
 ter and again in the crumbs, arrange between 
 a wire hinged broiler, broil a golden brown, 
 basting with butter; serve garnished with 
 quartered lemon and fried parsley. 
 BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS— Mince some 
 thyme, parsley and shallots very fine, add a 
 little salt and pepper; wipe large oysters dry, 
 roll them in the herbs, then dip in beaten eggs, 
 then in sifted breadcrumbs, then arrange them 
 alternately on a skewer with pieces of sweet- 
 
 soned with mixed salt and red pepper, dipped 
 in flour, then in mixed beaten eggs and whipped 
 cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs, pressed 
 slightly between the hands, fried a golden 
 brown with butter; served with quartered 
 lemon and garnished with green stuff, 
 
 OYSTERS BAKED WITH POTATOES— Large 
 oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per. Duchesse potato mixture rolled out thin, 
 cut out in diamond shapes, oysters laid in the 
 centre, edges folded over and pinched into 
 shape, arranged in a buttered baking pan, 
 brushed over with beaten egg, baked a golden 
 brown; served very hot. 
 
 OYSTER LOAF— Small French rolls, insides 
 hollowed out, the loaf shell then fried a golden 
 brown with butter, the interior then filled with 
 a fricassee of oysters. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 123 
 
 CURRIED OYSTERS — Oysters scalded and 
 drained, cuiry sauce made from the liquor, 
 finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. 
 Rice boiled in some scalded oyster liquor; 
 served as a border to the curried oysters in the 
 centre. 
 
 BAKED OYSTERS, ITALIAN STYLE— Maca- 
 roni boiled in one inch lengths in oyster liquor 
 from the scalded oysters, Fricasee sauce made 
 of the liquor after the macaroni is drained. 
 Buttered baking pan, alternate layers of the 
 macaroni and oysters, the top strewn with 
 mixed grated cheese and breadcrumbs, dashed 
 with melted butter, sauce then poured over, 
 baked till set; served very hot. 
 
 OYSTERS IN CASSEROLE— Line the casserole 
 with Duchesse.potato mixture, fill the interior 
 with oysters in a rich Poulette sauce, bake 
 lightly and serve. 
 
 CREAMED OYSTERS ON TOAST— Scalded 
 oysters placed into a rich cream sauce, then 
 arranged on buttered toast; served with the 
 sauce poured over. 
 
 OYSTERS WITH CELERY— To each portion 
 of oysters allow a tablespoonful of minced white 
 celery and the same of sherry wine, saute all 
 together with butter, season with salt and red 
 pepper; serve on toast with the liquor poured 
 over. 
 
 OYSTER TOAST— Oysters scalded and drained, 
 then pounded to a paste with cream, seasoned 
 with lemon juice and red pepper, spread on 
 circles of brown bread toast. 
 
 OYSTER OMELET— Scald the oysters, add the 
 liquor >to a sauce Normande, reduce, put the 
 oysters into the omelet, dip two of them into 
 the sauce and place on top, then pour the sauce 
 around the omelet. 
 
 SUPREME OF OYSTERS— Oysters scalded 
 and drained, the liquor strained through muslin 
 and added to a rich Veloute sauce, brought to the 
 boil, piece of chicken glaze then added, then 
 finish by adding a little thick cream and the 
 juice of a lemon, add the oysters; serve on 
 toast. 
 
 OYSTER PIE — Diamond shaped pieces of puff 
 pastry % of an inch thick when baked, split, 
 the under side laid on the serving platter, the 
 Supreme above laid on it, the upper part of the 
 pastry laid on; served immediately. Another 
 way, take the Supreme of oysters, add some 
 chopped hard boiled eggs and parsley, fill in to a 
 pie dish, cover with a puff paste, bake off 
 quickly without letting the oysters come to the 
 boil in the pie. 
 
 COD AND OYSTER PIE— The Supreme above 
 with the addition of flakes of fresh boiled cod- 
 fish, prepared and served in the ways given for 
 oyster pie. 
 
 OYSTER PATTIES— The Supreme above filled 
 into puff paste patty shells. 
 
 OYSTER POT PIE— The Supreme above, keep- 
 ing out the oysters till the pie is finished, i. c, 
 prepare the sauce, put it into the saucepan, bring 
 to the boil, drop light dumplings all over it 
 close together, place on the lid, and cook till 
 dumplings are done, then remove the centre 
 one, place in the oysters, replace the dumpling, 
 keep very hot, but do not let it boil again; this 
 method keeps the oysters plump and tender; 
 serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 
 Cod and oyster pot pie may be prepared the 
 same way, and is useful when oysters are few 
 and you have some cod that wants using up, 
 such as the shoulders that cannot be cut into 
 nice steaks. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF OYSTERS— A rich Supreme 
 as above, having the sauce thick enough to stay 
 on the oyster when lifted out; arrange them 
 down the centre of the serving dish, flanked 
 with neatly fried oysters; serve garnished with 
 triangle shaped pieces of buttered toast, the 
 point dipped into the sauce, then into lobster 
 coral. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE— Oysters blanched and drain- 
 ed, liquor strained through muslin, brought 
 to the boil, a butter and flour roux moistened 
 with the boiling liquor, seasoned with salt, red 
 pepper and lemon juice, finished with some 
 boiling cream; this is used for white foods. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE— For brown foods such as 
 steaks, fried fish, meat pies, oyster pies, roast 
 turkey, roast capon, etc., is prepared same as 
 the preceding, but substituting a good brown 
 sauce for the boiling cream. 
 
 STEAK AND OYSTER PIE— Tender pieces of 
 beef cut into small neat pieces, seasoned with 
 pepper and salt, quickly sauteed a nice color 
 with butter, taken up and placed into the pie 
 dish, oysters scalded and drained. Into the pan 
 the beef was sauteed in add a little more but- 
 ter, then flour to form a roux, moisten with the 
 strained boiling liquor, boil, skim, strain over 
 the meat and let simmer till meat is nearly 
 done, then add the oysters, some good brown 
 sauce, a seasoning of salt, pepper, lemon juice 
 and Harvey sauce, cover with puff paste, bake 
 quickly; serve hot. 
 
 OYSTER CROQUETTES— Two quarts of Se- 
 lects or Standard oysters, one can of mush- 
 rooms, the liquor of the mushrooms poured to 
 the oysters, which are then scalded and drained, 
 the scalded liquor then strained through mus- 
 lin; mushrooms minced and sauteed a golden 
 color with butter, taken up, flour then added to 
 form a roux, thick sauce then made with the 
 boiling liquor, adding a little cream and a sea- 
 soning of salt, pepper, lemon juice, Anchovy 
 and Harvey sauces, the chopped oysters and 
 
124 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 mushrooms then added, boiled, finished to 
 proper thickness with a liaison of egg yolks 
 and cream; turned into a buttered shallow pan, 
 smoothed, covered with a sheet of oiled paper, 
 allowed to become firm and cold, then formed 
 into shape of sausages, breaded, fried; served 
 with brown oyster sauce. 
 OYSTER CUTLETS MINCED— The croquette 
 preparation made into the shape of rib chops, 
 breaded, fried; served with brown oyster sauce. 
 OYSTER RISSOLES— Crimped circles of puff 
 paste, the centre containing some oyster cro- 
 quette mixture, edges then folded over and 
 pinched, brushed with egg wash, baked. 
 OYSTER STUFFING— For fish and poultry: 
 oysters blanched and drained, cut in quarters, 
 or if using Standards, leave them whole. Moist 
 stale bread grated one part, rolled oyster crack- 
 ers one part, the third part of oysters, the 
 whole mixed together and seasoned with salt, 
 pepper and chopped parsley, the liquor brought 
 to the boil with an addition of butter, poured 
 to the dry mixture, stirred, then ready for use. 
 OYSTER SOUP— Scald the oysters, drain, strain 
 the liquor through muslin, bring to the boil, 
 season with salt, red pepper, mace, Harvey 
 and Anchovy sauces, flour and butter roux, 
 moistened with the strained liquor, boiled up, 
 skimmed, then poured to an equal quantity of 
 Bechamel sauce, add the scalded oysters; serve 
 with oyster crackers. 
 OYSTER SOUP-Oysters and their liquor scalded 
 in strong fish broth, taken up and drained, the 
 liquor strained; a can of mushrooms opened, 
 liquor poured to the broth, the mushrooms 
 minced with some shallots, fried with plenty of 
 butter, then taken up and added to the scalded 
 oysters; flour added to the frying butter to 
 form a roux, this then thinned to soup consist- 
 ency with the boiling broth, season to taste, 
 oysters, etc., then added with some chopped 
 parsley and a glass of white wine; serve with 
 oyster crackers. 
 OYSTER GUMBO— Minced onions, green pep- 
 pers and ham fried with plenty of butter, then 
 taken up, oysters scalded in their own liquor 
 and fish broth, taken up and drained, half a 
 gallon can of tomatoes rubbed through a fine 
 sieve then added to the strained liquor and 
 boiled, skimmed, [flour added to the butter to 
 form a roux, moistened to soup consistency 
 with the boiling liquor and tomatoes, seasoned, 
 two cans of okra then added with a little Doiled 
 rice, then the oysters and other fried ingredi- 
 ents; served with oyster crackers. 
 OYSTER SANDWICH— Three or four dozen 
 oysters dried with a cloth, melted butter in a 
 frying pan, drop in the oysters and saute" them 
 brown, take up, chop fine, season with salt and 
 pepper, spread on hot thin buttered toast, 
 
 sprinkle with chili sauce, cover with another 
 slice of toast, trim the edges, cut across and 
 serve. 
 
 BREADED OYSTERS, CELERY SAUCE— 
 Large oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in melted butter, then in 
 fresh grated breadcrumbs, place between a 
 wire hinged broiler, broil rapidly a delicate 
 brown, then place on a narrow strip of hot 
 fresh buttered toast; serve with celery cream 
 sauce poured around. 
 
 OYSTER BOUCHEES— For two dozen, blanch 
 four dozen oysters in their own liquor, take up 
 and place two in each bouchee, strain the liquor 
 through muslin, add its equal volume of rich 
 tomato puree, then season with butter and 
 tabasco sauce, bring to the boil, keep the 
 bouchees hot, and when serving, fill up with 
 the boiling sauce. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT, FRIED— Scraped clean and 
 laid in cold water containing salt and a little 
 white vinegar; when *o be cooked, first boil 
 tender, then take up and drain, dip into frying 
 batter, plunge into hot fat, fry a delicate brown, 
 take up, sprinkle with salt and serve as a veg- 
 etable. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT, BOILED— Pr e par e as 
 above, then boil tender, take up and drain, 
 place in vegetable steamer, cover with cream 
 sauce; serve as a vegetable. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT, SAUCE POULETTE-Scrape 
 clean, cut in small pieces, lay in acidulated 
 water for an hour, then boil till tender in boil- 
 ing water containing salt and and a little white 
 vinegar; when done, taken up, turned into hot 
 Poulette sauce and served. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT FRITTERS— Prepared and 
 boiled as above, when drained, mashed thor- 
 oughly, then seasoned and stiffened with salt, 
 pepper, yolk of egg and flour, spoonfuls then 
 fried in hot fat, taken up, sprinkled with salt 
 and served. 
 
 STEWED OYSTER PLANT— The plant pre- 
 pared and boiled as above, then stewed in a 
 rich meat gravy sauce; served on hot buttered 
 toast. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT SAUTE— The plant prepared, 
 boiled, drained, then rolled in flour, sauteed a 
 golden brown with butter; served on toast with 
 hot maitre d'hotel sauce poured over. 
 
 PANCAKES — Known to us in every household 
 "as "batter cakes". For recipes, see heading 
 of "batter". 
 
 PARMESAN — Name of an Italian cheese; see 
 heading of "cheese". 
 
 PARSLEY — A garden herb used as a garnish; to 
 ornament dishes, chopped and mixed in sauces, 
 stews, soups, salads, etc. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 125 
 
 PARSNIP — A root vegetable, peeled, cut in finger 
 lengths, boiled in salted water, taken up and 
 drained; served as an accompaniment to boiled 
 salt leg of pork. 
 
 PARSNIPS, CREAM SAUCE— Boiled in finger 
 lengths, drained, placed in cream sauce; served 
 as a vegetable. 
 
 PARSNIPS FRIED IN BATTER— Boiled in 
 finger lengths in salted water, taken up and 
 drained, dipped in batter, fried in hot lard, 
 taken up, sprinkled with salt and served. 
 
 PARSNIP FRITTERS— Boiled, mashed, sea- 
 soned and stiffened with salt, pepper, yolks of 
 eggs and flour, fried by spoonfuls in hot lard, 
 taken up, sprinkled with salt, served. 
 
 PARSNIP SAUTEES— Boiled tender in finger 
 lengths, drained, seasoned with salt and pep- 
 per, rolled in flour, sauteed a delicate brown 
 with butter, taken up, sprinkled with chopped 
 parsley and served. 
 
 MASHED PARSNIPS— Boiled tender, mashed, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, milk and butter; 
 served as a vegetable. 
 
 BAKED PARSNIPS— Peeled, quartered, steamed 
 till nearly done, taken up and arranged in a 
 buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, moistened with rich gravy and butter, 
 baked tender and brown. 
 
 PARTRIDGE BROILED— Young birds split 
 down the back, breastbone removed, trussed, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with 
 olive oil, broiled and basted well done; served 
 on buttered toast with maitre d'hotel butter, 
 garnished with jelly and parsley; may also be 
 garnished with slices of fried hominy or bacon, 
 or after broiling, served with either Colbert, 
 Italian or Madeira sauces. 
 
 ROAST PARTRIDGE— Young birds singed and 
 drawn, wiped with towel, trussed with a slice 
 of fat bacon tied over the breast, roasted about 
 half an hour; served with game sauce and red 
 currant jelly. 
 
 BOILED PARTRIDGE— Singed, drawn, wiped 
 and trussed, boiled in white stock till tender; 
 served with a rich cream sauce. 
 
 BOILED PARTRIDGE, GARNISHED— Part- 
 ridges singed, drawn, wiped and trussed, put to 
 boil with cabbage, bacon, pork sausages, 
 frankforts, parsley, white stock and a little 
 sherry wine; when tender, taken up, the meats 
 also, parsley thrown away, cabbage pressed 
 dry, then chopped, the remaining liquor strained 
 into a rich game sauce. To serve, place a 
 spoonful of cabbage in centre of dish, portion 
 of bird on it, flanked with a piece of bacon, 
 sausage, frankfort (skinned), sauce poured 
 over. 
 
 PARTRIDGE SAUTE — Young birds singed, 
 drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned with salt and 
 
 pepper, sauteed with butter a delicate brown, 
 taken up, minced shallots then added to the 
 butter with button mushrooms and fried; 
 when browned, surplus butter poured off, part- 
 ridge put back, covered with Espagnole, boiled 
 up and skimmed, seasoned with Madeira wine, 
 simmered till tender; served garnished with 
 fancy croutons. 
 
 SALMI OF PARTRIDGE— The birds singed, 
 drawn, wiped, trussed, roasted, cooled, quart- 
 ered, the back and breastbones with other 
 trimmings then placed in some Espagnole with 
 bacon, minced onion, bay leaf, thyme and 
 crushed peppers, brought to the boil and rap- 
 idly reduced, skimmed, strained over the birds 
 in another sautoir, seasoned with sherry wine, 
 simmered a few minutes; served garnished with 
 croutons. 
 
 PARTRIDGE LARDED AND BRAISED— The 
 birds singed, drawn and wiped, the breasts 
 larded, trussed, arranged in brasiere with slices 
 of root vegetables and sweet herbs; place a few 
 slices of bacon on top, moisten with a little 
 stock, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, 
 place on the lid and put in a slow oven to cook 
 in its own steam for about two hours; when 
 done, take up, add a game sauce to the liquor 
 in the brasiere, reduce, strain, flavor with 
 sherry wine, glaze the birds; serve with the 
 sauce. 
 
 PARTRIDGE SAUTE WITH RISSOTO-Young 
 birds singed, drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, fried lightly with butter, 
 taken up; into the butter they were fried in, 
 add flour to form a roux, moisten with game 
 stock made from the backbones and trimmings, 
 add the juice and a little of the grated rind of a 
 sour orange, put in the fried birds, simmer 
 slowly till tender; served with a border of ris- 
 soto. 
 
 BREAST OF PARTRIDGE LARDED AND 
 FRIED — Take the breasts, trim and lard them, 
 season with salt, pepper and powdered thyme, 
 dip in beaten egg, then roll in freshly grated 
 breadcrumbs, arrange in a sautoir, pour over 
 melted butter, placed in a moderate oven and 
 brown nicely on both sides; serve on a fancy 
 crouton with a little Richelieu or Sultana sauce 
 poured around. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF PARTRIDGE WITH 
 MUSHROOMS— Take young birds, remove 
 the breasts, lard them, bread and fry as pre- 
 ceding one half of them, slowly broil the re- 
 maining half, (so that you have one plain and 
 one breaded), dish up one of each, points cross- 
 ing each other, garnish with fried mushrooms 
 in a Fumet sauce. 
 BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, SAUCE COL- 
 BERT — Take the breasts of young birds, lard 
 them, slowly broil them till done; served on 
 
126 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 bnttered toast with sauce Colbert poured 
 around. 
 
 BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, GLAZED VEGE- 
 TABLES— Take the breasts of young birds, 
 lard and roast them. With an half inch sized col- 
 umn cutter, cut inch lengths of carrot and tur- 
 nip, braise and glaze them together -with but- 
 ton onions, use them as a garnish to the breasts, 
 and pour game sauce around. 
 
 PARTRIDGE BRAISED WITH CABBAGE— 
 Take old birds, braise them with sliced vege. 
 tables and sweet herbs till three parts done, 
 take up into a sautoir, add cut cabbage, pour 
 over the strained liquor they were braised in, 
 add some thin slices of bacon (if not enough 
 liquor add some white stock), simmer till done, 
 lightly thicken the liquor with flour and butter; 
 serve portion of bird with slice of bacon on 
 top, cabbage around, and a little game sauce 
 over the bird. 
 
 PARTRIDGE BREADCRUMBED AND 
 BROILED — Truss the bird out like a frog, 
 season with salt and pepper, dip twice in beat- 
 en eggs and fresh grated breadcrumbs, broil 
 slowly till done over a clear fire; serve on toast 
 with Italian sauce. 
 
 FILLETS' OF PARTRIDGE WITH CRAY- 
 FISH — Take the upper and lower fillets from 
 the breasis, trim and lard them, arrange them 
 in a sautoir with slices of bacon, moistened with 
 little stock and white wine, cover with a sheet 
 of buttered paper, place on the lid, braise in 
 the oven; when done, glaze them, strain and 
 skim the braise, then add it to an Allemande 
 sauce. To serve: place a ragout of crayfish 
 tails in centre of dish, large fillet of partridge 
 at each end with points meeting over the rag- 
 out, small fillets at each side, points upwards, 
 sprinkle over all a little lobster coral, and pour 
 the sauce around. 
 
 FILLETS OF PARTRIDGE, PARISIAN 
 STYLE — Take the fillets and coat them with 
 Allemande sauce, then in beaten eggs and sifted 
 breadcrumbs, then sprinkle with melted butter 
 and press on a little more of the crumbs, saute 
 them of a golden color with clear butter, when 
 done, take up and drain; meanwhile, prepare a 
 ragout of crayfish tails, button mushrooms, cocks 
 kernels and small truffles, moisten with a little 
 game glaze, Allemande sauce, crayfish butter 
 and lemon juice. To serve: place the ragout 
 in centre of dish, the fillets around it, decorate 
 the base with scallops of tongue, and serve 
 some more of the sauce from the ragout separ- 
 ate. 
 
 PARTRIDGE WITH BACON, CELERY 
 SAUCE — Take old birds and boil them with 
 salt pork, carrots, onions and turnips in white 
 stock till tender; serve in portions with a slice 
 of the pork at the sides, and a puree of celery 
 in a white game sauce poured over. 
 
 PARTRIDGE RISSOLES, SAUCE RICHE- 
 LIEU — Make a croquette mixture with cold 
 cooked partridge and game sauce, stamp out 
 crimped circles of thin puff paste, place a little 
 of the mixture in the centres, fold over the 
 edges and pinch close, fry or bake them of a 
 golden color, and serve with a Richelieu sauce. 
 
 EMINCE OF PARTRIDGE— Take cold roast 
 partridge, cut in broad thin slices, simmer it in 
 equal parts of white game and Godard sauces; 
 serve on toast, garnished with sauteed fresh 
 button mushrooms. 
 
 SALPICON OF PARTRIDGE-Takecold cooked 
 partridge, cut the meat in small dice, also some 
 truffles, red tongue and button mushrooms, cut 
 same size as the bird, mix, moisten with either 
 game, Bechamel or Supreme sauces; serve 
 garnished with small potato croquettes. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF PARTRIDGE— Take cold 
 cooked partridge, cut the meat in small squares, 
 simmer it in a rich game sauce, then add a rag- 
 out of mushrooms, cocks combs and sweet- 
 breads; serve in paste croustades, garnish with 
 fancy croutons. 
 
 HASHED PARTRIDGE WITH EGG— Take 
 cold cooked partridge, cut the meat in small 
 squares, lightly fry it with butter, add flour to 
 form a roux, moisten with game stock, simmer 
 for fifteen minutes; serve on toast with a 
 trimmed and drained poached egg on top, then 
 garnish the ends with fancy croutons. 
 
 PARTRIDGE CROQUETTES, SAUCE PERI- 
 GUEUX— Cold cooked partridge minced, thick 
 game sauce heated, partridge worked in, stirred 
 till it boils, two or three whipped yolks of egg 
 may be worked in, turn into buttered pan, 
 smooth, let it become thoroughly cold, form in- 
 to shapes of corks, bread, fry; serve with Peri- 
 gueux sauce. 
 
 PARTRIDGE PATTIES— Prepare the mixture 
 as given for "croustades of partridge", fill either 
 into patty or vol-au-vent cases and serve. 
 
 STEWED PARTRIDGE— Old birds, lard them, 
 place them in a sautoir with a piece of fat 
 bacon, sweet herbs, vegetables, moisten with 
 white wine and stock, let them stew slowly till 
 tender, then take up and cut into quarters, 
 strain the liquor they were stewed in, skim off 
 the fat, reduce it, then add it and the birds to 
 a Chipolata garnish "(see garnishes)", serve 
 the bird with the garnish around. 
 
 PARTRIDGE SALAD-Cold roast birds skinned, 
 trimmed into neat pieces, moistened with one 
 part of tarragon vinegar to two of olive oil, 
 add a little chopped chervil and chives, season 
 with salt and cayenne, mix all together with an 
 equal quantity of Julienne cut celery (like 
 matches); serve on a bed of curly endive, garn- 
 ish with rings of hard boiled eggs and filleted 
 anchovies. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 127 
 
 PAUPIETTE— Name given to a thin slice of 
 meat spread with forcemeat, rolled up, tied at 
 each end, stewed with meat gravy; the house- 
 hold name for them is "meat olives". 
 
 PEACH— One of our choice fruits, the two var- 
 ieties chiefly used in hotel life being the "free- 
 stone" for dessert, and the "clingstone" for 
 cooking purposes. 
 
 PEACHES WITH CREAM— Freestone peaches 
 skinned, cut in slices, sprinkled with powdered 
 sugar, covered with thick cream and served. 
 
 COMPOTE OF PEACHES— Halves of peaches 
 skinned, simmered in syrup till tender; served 
 cold with a small pitcher of cream separate — 
 may also be served hot as a sweet entree. An 
 improvement to the syrup is to take the kernels 
 from the stones, blanch and skin them, then 
 boil in the syrup. 
 
 PEACH AMBROSIA-Peaches peeled and sliced, 
 simmered in the above syrup till tender, taken 
 up, arranged in centre of dish flanked with 
 slices of peeled and pipped oranges, then 
 cover the peaches with some of the syrup, and 
 pipe a fancy centre over them with whipped 
 cream. 
 
 PEACHES WITH RICE— Rice boiled in sweet- 
 ened milk with a vanilla bean till dry in grains; 
 served as a border to the compote of peaches 
 as above. 
 
 PEACHES WITH RICE CROQUETTES-Rice 
 boiled very tender in sweetened and flavored 
 milk, then taken up and whisked till creamy, 
 set with the addition of egg yolks; when cold, 
 made up into two forms of croquettes, one like 
 a small egg nest, the other like a small pyra- 
 mid; bread them lightly, fry a golden color, 
 depress the centre of the egg nest shape, and 
 place in half a peach from compote, pips the 
 edge with peach marmalade, garnish with the 
 pyramids, decorating the point with whipped 
 cream and chopped pistachio nuts, pour syrup 
 from the compote flavored with Madeira wine 
 around the base, then serve. 
 
 PEACH MARMALADE— Peaches wiped but not 
 pared, halved, stoned, weighed; to each pound 
 of fruit allow half a pound of sugar; take a 
 porcelain lined kettle, pour in just enough 
 water to cover the bottom, then put in the 
 peaches, place on the lid and heat slowly to 
 boiling point; then stir and mash the fruit till 
 fine; then add the sugar and a few blanched 
 and pounded kernels, boil up again and con- 
 tinue stirring for fifteen minutes, then diaw to 
 a cooler part of the range and let simmer for 
 twenty minutes with an occasional stir; place 
 in stone crocks and use as wanted. 
 
 PEACH BUTTER — Yellow mellow peaches 
 peeled and stoned, weighed; to each pound of 
 fruit allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
 put peaches with just a little water in the pre- 
 
 serving kettle, cover, heat slowly to boiling 
 point, whisk till thoroughly mashed, then rub 
 through a fine sieve, then add the sugar, 
 boil up, boil and stir thoroughly for fifteen 
 minutes, fill into small jars; when cold, tie 
 over with air-proof paper. 
 
 PEACH JELLY— Two gallons of pared and 
 sliced peaches, one pint of water, two dozen of 
 the kernels blanched and pounded and mixed 
 with the fruit, put all into a stone crock, stand 
 in the bain-marie, cover closely and let boil for 
 an hour, stirring till the fruit is well broken, 
 then turn into a jelly bag and let drip thor- 
 oughly; to each quart of juice add the juice of 
 two lemons and two pounds of sugar, bring 
 quicky to the boil, then boil fast for twenty 
 minutes, skim as the scum rises, roll the glasses 
 in boiling water, fill with the boiling jelly, let 
 cool for 24 hours, then cover with air-proof 
 papers; keep in a cool place. 
 
 SPICED PEACHES— Twenty-eight pounds of 
 peaches, sixteen pounds of granulated sugar, 
 two quarts of white wine vinegar, two ounces 
 of bruised ginger, ounce of ground cloves, two 
 ounces each of ground allspice and cinnamon 
 and half an ounce of ground mace, mix all 
 the spices together and fill into two muslin bags, 
 tie tight, bring the sugar and vinegar to the boil, 
 put in the spices, then the peaches peeled but 
 left whole, when they come to the boil again, 
 remove from the fire and carefully place them 
 in a stone crock, allow to cool overnight, then 
 pour off the liquid into a preserving kettle, 
 gradually bring to the boil, then pour back 
 over the fruit, repeat this with the liquor every 
 day for ten days and on the last day reduce the 
 liquor till there is only just enough to cover the 
 peaches, then place the crock in the bain-marie 
 and bring to boiling point, fill into fruit jars 
 and use as wanted. 
 
 BRANDY PEACHES —Large firm freestone 
 peaches placed in a preserving kettle and cov- 
 ered with boiling water, lid then put on and 
 allowed to remain till the water becomes cold, 
 then drain off the water and repeat with an- 
 other scalding and cooling, then take each 
 peach out of the cold water and allow to drain 
 and dry between two towels, then put the fruit 
 into small stone crocks and cover with brandy; 
 cover with air-proof paper and allow to macer- 
 ate for a week; at the week end take out and 
 weigh the fruit; to each pound of peaches make 
 syrup of one pound of sugar and a cupful of 
 water, bring to the ooil and skim, then put in 
 the fruit and simmer, when tender, take out 
 and drain, put into fruit jars, allow the syrup 
 to cool; when cold, make a mixture of equal 
 quantities of the syrup and brandy, pour over 
 the fruit in the jars, seal up, keep in a cool 
 dark place, use as wanted. 
 
128 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 BOTTLED PEACHES-Ripe, large juicy peaches 
 peeled and halved, then weighed; to each 
 pound, allow one pound of sugar. Take a stone 
 crock, fill it with alternate layers of peaches 
 and sugar, let macerate for 24 hours, then turn 
 all carefully into preserving kettle with some of 
 the kernels blanched and skinned, bring rapidly 
 to the boil, then simmer till the fruit is tender 
 and the syrup clear, take up gently and fill in- 
 to fruit jars without breaking the halves, allow 
 the syrup to become cold, then pour over the 
 peaches, screw on the covers, use as wanted. 
 
 PEACH COBBLER— Shallow buttered baking 
 pan lined with a good short paste, halves of 
 peeled peaches filled into it, covered with 
 powdered sugar, upper crust of short paste 
 placed on and pinched down at edges, egg 
 washed and baked in a medium oven for half 
 an hour; served cut in squares dusted with 
 powdered sugar and a small pitcher of cream 
 served separately. 
 
 PEACH SHORTCAKE— Ripe freestone peaches 
 peeled and chopped, mixed with sugar to taste, 
 shortcake baked, split, the peaches then spread 
 between and on top, the top layer then piped 
 with whipped cream; served cut in squares, 
 with or without a separate pitcher of cream. 
 
 PEACH CHARLOTTE— Buttered baking pan, 
 slices of an evenly trimmed stale loaf dipped in 
 melted butter and arranged around the sides 
 and bottom of the pan leaving no cracks, peach 
 marmalade then put in half an inch thick, cov- 
 ered with more slices of the bread, brushed 
 with beaten egg, then well sprinkled with gran 
 ulated sugar, baked brown and glazy; served 
 with or without sauce. 
 
 PEACH CROUTONS WITH GLAZED 
 FRUITS — Sponge cakes baked in a long round 
 mold; when one day old, cut into slices inch 
 and a half thick. Compote of peaches, the 
 syrup flavored with Kirschenwasser, after 
 peaches are done, removed, and into the syrup 
 is put pieces of angelica with other "fruits 
 glaces". To serve: dip the slice of cake in 
 the syrup, on it place the fruit, then decorate 
 with the "fruits glaces" finish with a little of 
 the syrup poured over. 
 
 PEACH CHARTREUSE— Ornamental jelly 
 molds, fancy slices of "fruits glaces" peach 
 butter stiffened with gelatine. Line the molds 
 with a thin layer of stiff Madeira wine jelly, 
 dip each slice of fruit in some more of it and 
 decorate the sides of the mold in a pretty de- 
 sign, then pour in some more jelly to set the 
 design, then fill up with the stiffened peach 
 butter, put away in ice box to set firm, turn 
 out on a fancy glass dish, pipe a fancy border 
 with whipped cream, sprinkle it with very 
 finely chopped pistachio nuts and serve. 
 
 PEACH TARTLETTES — Fancy patty pans 
 lined with puff paste, halves of preserved 
 
 peaches placed into each, baked, then a piping 
 of meringue round the edges sprinkled with 
 chopped pistachio nuts, returned to oven till 
 the meringue takes on a delicate fawn color; 
 when serving, pipe the centre fancifully with 
 whipped cream. 
 PEACH FRITTERS— Freestone peaches peeled 
 and halved, coated with frying batter, plunged 
 into hot lard, fried a golden brown, taken up 
 and drained; served with wine sauce. 
 
 PEACH DUMPLINGS— Large peaches peeled 
 and stoned, enclosed with short paste, steamed 
 till done; served with any pudding sauce. 
 
 PEACH PIE — Peaches peeled and cut in slices, 
 and made up same as apple pie. 
 
 PEACH TRIFLE — A sheet of sponge cake moist- 
 ened with sherry wine, this spread with a puree 
 of peaches, the peaches with whipped cream, 
 cut orders in a diamond shape, and serve with 
 whipped cream piped around the edges. 
 
 PEACH ICE — Puree of peaches flavored with 
 ratafia mixed with water and sugar to taste, 
 frozen; served in ice cups. 
 
 ICED PEACHES-Large freestone peaches peeled, 
 halved; stone removed; where the stone was, 
 filled with the peach ice above; place the halves 
 together, then coat the outside of the peach 
 with more of the ice, place in refrigerating box 
 till firm, then serve with whipped cream 
 piped around the base. 
 
 PEANUT — One of the most nutritive of foods, is 
 the peanut kernel, as they contain 7.855S of 
 water, 2.77$ of ash, 29.47% or protein, 4. 29% of 
 fiber, 14 27% of nitrogen free extract, 49 29$ of 
 fat, 4.67% of nitrogen. * * * In describing the 
 uses of peanuts it is scarcely necessary to more 
 than refer to that use which fully three-fourths 
 of the American raised crop is devoted. The 
 nut is sorted in the factory into four grades, 
 the first, second and third being sold to vendors 
 of the roasted peanut, either directly or through 
 jobbing houses. The fourth grade, after pass- 
 ing through a sheller, is sold to confectioners, 
 to be used in the making of "burnt almonds", 
 peanut candy and cheaper grades of chocolates. 
 The extent of the use of the peanuts by the 
 American people will be more fully appreciated 
 when it is remembered that they use 4,000,000 
 bushels of nuts yearly (at a cost to the con- 
 sumers of $10,000,000) which do not form a 
 part of the regular articles of food, but are 
 eaten at odd times. 
 
 PEAR — A delicious fruit, produced at its best in 
 California. The Bartlett is the best for serv- 
 ing plain or in the fruit stands. May be used in 
 almost all the ways just previously described 
 for peaches. 
 
 PRICKLY PEAR— The fruit of a cactus named 
 Opuntia, is peeled, sliced, moistened with 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 129 
 
 brandy and the juice of an orange, then served 
 with powdered sugar. 
 
 PEAS — Garden peas shelled and washed, the 
 toppings removed from the water, put to boil 
 in boiling water with salt, little sugar and a 
 small bunch of green mint, boil rapidly without 
 a cover till tender, about ten to fifteen minutes, 
 take up and drain, remove the mint; serve plain 
 as a vegetable or garnish, or mix with cream or 
 gravy, or butter sauce. The dried green peas 
 of commerce may, after soaking in cold water 
 over night, be treated the same as fresh garden 
 peas. 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP— Garden peas shelled and 
 washed, boiled till tender in good chicken broth, 
 seasoned to taste, then is added some shredded 
 chervil and lettuce. 
 
 GREEN PEA SOUP— Peas shelled and washed, 
 boiled in white stock till tender, slightly thick- 
 ened with roux, then rubbed through a tamis, 
 seasoned; served with croutons . . To the puree 
 may also be added finely cut chervil, chives, 
 spring onions, asparagus points, stringless beans 
 . . . also may be mixed in for a change, two 
 or three cans of macedoines . . . or a julienne of 
 vegetables , . royal custards . . rice grains . . 
 flageolet beans . . etc. 
 
 PUREE OF PEAS— Dried green peas soaked 
 over night, put to boil in white stock with a ham 
 knuckle, mint, onion, carrot, spring onions and 
 chives; when tender, remove the ham, rub the 
 rest through a tamis, season to taste, bring to 
 the boil again and slightly thicken with roux, 
 to avoid settling; cut the ham in small dice and 
 add to the soup; serve with croutons. 
 
 PUREE OF PEAS— Dried green peas put to 
 boil with salt pork and and a bunch of pot 
 herbs in veal broth, boil till soft and pork is 
 done, then remove pork, thicken a little with 
 roux to prevent settling, then rub through 
 tamis, bring to boil again, season to taste, cut 
 the pork in dice, add to the soup; serve with 
 croutons. 
 
 SPLIT PEA SOUP— Split peas soaked over 
 night, put to boil in white stock with onion, 
 celery, carrot and salt pork; when done, thicken 
 lightly with roux to prevent settling, remove 
 the pork, rub the rest through a tamis, bring to 
 boil again, season to taste, add the pork cut in 
 small dice; serve with croutons. 
 
 PEAS PUDDING— An English dish used with 
 boiled salt pork, salt beef, etc. Split peas 
 soaked over night, then put inco a cloth allow- 
 ing room to swell, put to boil in cold water with 
 salt and a small piece of common washing 
 soda, boiled till soft, taken up, the cloth hung 
 to allow all water to drain out, then untied, 
 turned on to a dish and served with the accom- 
 panying meat. 
 
 PEPPER— Black, White and Mignonette— the 
 berry of the pepper vine. The Black is the 
 unripe berry dried; Mignonette is the black 
 crushed (not ground) used in seasoning foods 
 or stocks, etc., that will be strained; White is 
 the kernel of the ripe berry. 
 
 RED PEPPER — is the ground seeds and pods of 
 the small capsicum; also called cayenne pepper. 
 
 PEPPERMINT— Name of a combination plant 
 of pepper and mint, one of the mint species; a 
 volatile oil is extracted from it which is used 
 for medicinal purposes, also as a flavoring to 
 many things in the confectioners' trade. 
 
 PEPPER POT— Name of the national soup stew 
 of the West Indies; composed of pieces of beef, 
 veal, ham chicken, game, all sorts of vege- 
 tables, chopped green marjoram, savory, basil, 
 parsley, small potatoes and dump"lings, finished 
 and seasoned with sauce cassareep and chili 
 pepper. 
 
 PERCH — A delicate daiaty flavored small fish 
 abundant all summer in our fresh water lakes, 
 rivers and streams. As the skin is hard they 
 should be skinned by first running a sharp 
 knife down either side of the back fins, lifting 
 the fin out, then with a sharp jerk pull off the 
 skin from the sides, empty the entrails, cut off 
 the other fins, season with salt and pepper, roll 
 in flour, then in beaten eggs, then bread- 
 crumbs, fry a golden brown; serve with lemon, 
 garnish with parsley, and you have a dish ac- 
 ceptable to all. . . . Or, after preparing, season, 
 roll in flour, broil and baste till done; serve 
 garnished with chip potatoes and a little maitre 
 d'hotel butter, . . . prepare and boil in salted 
 water with a bunch of parsley, take up and 
 drain; serve with Allemande, parsley butter or 
 anchovy cream sauce, . . . prepare, season with 
 salt and pepper, roll in flour, saute in butter; 
 serve with a strip of bacon and a little anchovy 
 butter spread on it . . . prepare, season, roll in 
 flour, bake with a little bacon fat till done and 
 delicate brown in color; serve with Allemande 
 sauce. 
 
 PERIGUEUX — Name given to a sauce made by 
 frying a delicate brown together some minced 
 shallots, onion and ham, then moisten with a 
 glass of white wine and allow to simmer till 
 half reduced, then add an equal quantity of 
 brown roux and good meat gravy, also some 
 truffle peelings and a piece of meat glaze, sim- 
 mer the whole for ten minutes, then pass 
 through the china cap, add plenty of thinly 
 sliced truffles and set in bain-marie for use. 
 
 PERSIMMON — Name of a fruit resembling in 
 appearance a smooth tomato, in color between 
 the red and yellow sorts; best when having 
 caught the frost; has a flavor from its pulpy in- 
 terior like a mixture of a rough banana and 
 tamarinds; its taste must be cultivated to be 
 
130 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 liked as a fruit. It is prepared in the Southern 
 states as a beer, cider and wine. Also its pulp 
 is rubbed through a sieve, mixed with corn 
 meal instead of water and made into a sweet 
 corn bread. 
 
 PHEASANT — A fine game bird; should be hung 
 by the tail for at least a week or till its gamy 
 flavor is pronounced, then pluck, draw, singe, 
 wipe and truss, plunge him into boiling salted 
 water with an onion and some celery stalks; 
 when he is tender take out; serve in portions 
 with a good combined celery puree sauce con- 
 taining an eqnal quantity of rich oyster sauce. 
 
 BROILED PHEASANT— Take the very young 
 birds, and after hanging, pluck, singe, split 
 down the back, remove back and breast bones; 
 season with salt and pepper, brush well with 
 olive oil, place in a wire hinged broiler, broil 
 over a cleared space of the charcoal till tender; 
 serve with a brown game sauce. 
 
 ROAST PHEASANT— Hung birds plucked, 
 singed, drawn, wiped, trussed, breasts larded, 
 bacon tied over the larded breasts, roasted and 
 basted till done; served in portions with bread 
 sauce. 
 
 BRAISED PHEASANT— Hung birds plucked, 
 singed, drawn, wiped, stuffed with aFinanciere 
 ragout mixed with grated stale bread and a little 
 grated lemon rind, trussed, braised with bacon, 
 sweet herbs and a little game stock; when done, 
 taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, 
 then poured to a game sauce, reduced, finished 
 with a glass of port wine; served in portions 
 with some of the ragout under, the sauce over. 
 . . . May also be braised without being stuffed, 
 and served with a puree Soubise. . . also 
 braised with cabbage lettuces and pork saus- 
 ages; served garnished with the sausages and 
 a game sauce poured over . . .also braised, 
 served garnished with glazed sweetbreads, and 
 a Financiere ragout. 
 
 PHEASANT MAY BE USED TO PRODUCE 
 ALMOST ALL THE ENTREES GIVEN 
 WITH PARTRIDGE, AND NAMED AC- 
 CORDINGLY. 
 
 PICALLILI — Cut the following vegetables rather 
 fine, crush the garlic, then add, pack all into 
 stone crocks and cover with slightly salted 
 water, and stand in a cool place for one day 
 and night, then drain on sieve and press with 
 cloths till dry; then place back into the crocks, 
 cover with the boiling vinegar and spices, her- 
 metically seal on the crock covers while con- 
 tents are at boiling heat — ioo small cucumbers, 
 3 small white cabbages, 18 small heads of cel- 
 ery, 6 medium cauliflowers, 6 quarts of string- 
 less beans, g each of medium sized green and 
 red peppers, 4 cloves of garlic, 6 ozs. of mus- 
 tard seed, 2 level teaspoonfuls each of ground 
 allspice, mace aDd ginger, 2 heaping teaspoon- 
 
 fuls of ground black pepper, enough cider vine- 
 gar to well cover. 
 
 PICKLES — When making any pickles from the 
 receipts given under their respective headings, 
 always use the best cider vinegar, scald to boil- 
 ing point but do not let it boil, prepare always 
 in either granite or porcelain lioed kettles, use 
 wooden- spoons or paddles. A piece of horse- 
 radish root in the jars will prevent the vinegar 
 from becoming moldy. They should always be 
 kept in stone or glass, and in a dry dark place. 
 
 PICKLE — Aromatic salt pickle (German) — Take 
 seven and half gallons of water, one pound of 
 Indian cane sugar, half pound of pulverized 
 cleaned saltpetre, three ounces of coriander 
 seeds, half a dozen bay leaves, three cloves of 
 garlic. Boil all for five minutes, let it cool, 
 strain into brine tub through a fine strainer, 
 throw away the refuse. This brine will keep 
 all SUMMER, and can be used for every kind 
 of meat. All meat from this pickle will have a 
 fine red color and a pleasant taste. 
 
 PICKLE PUMPS — There is perhaps no process 
 so important in the curing of meat as pumping. 
 Meat is liable to very quick decomposition un- 
 less it is immediately brought in contact with a 
 preservative of some kind, such as salt, borax, 
 etc. In ordinary course if these preservatives 
 were laid on the surface of the meat, they 
 would mingle with the meat juices, dissolve 
 and percolate slowly through the tissues; but 
 this process is slow and under many conditions 
 of temperature, dangerous. Hence the neces- 
 sity of an appliance which brings the preserva- 
 atives at once into operation. The salt brine 
 or pickle is filtered so that it runs clear, and is 
 then injected by the pickle pump into the meat 
 to be cured. 
 
 PICKLING BEEF AND HAMS— To 100 pounds 
 of beef or hams, use 7 pounds of rock salt, 5 
 pounds of brown sugar, 2 ounces of saltpetre, 
 half an ounce of salaratus, mix together and 
 boil in four gallons of water, skim while boil- 
 ing and pour on to the meat hot. For hams to 
 cure well, they should remain in the pickle for 
 six weeks. 
 
 PIG PRODUCTS— Under the name of fresh 
 pork is comprised generally all the lean and 
 fresh parts of the pig destined to be roasted or 
 broiled, particularly the cutlets, the loin and 
 small fillet. The loin is the fleshy part between 
 the cutlets and the ham; it furnishes an excel- 
 lent roast. The "filet mignon" as the French 
 call it, is the long and narrow fleshy part under 
 the kidney along the dorsal spine known to us 
 as the pork tenderloin. It is the most delicate 
 morsel of pork and weighs from half to a pound 
 in weight. 
 
 HAMS — Nearly always entire hams are salted 
 (cured); sometimes they are used for cooking 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 131 
 
 r f:er several days curing; sometimes for smok- 
 ing or preserving a longer or shorter time; 
 sometimes they are boned and used for the 
 manufacture of different kinds of sausages. 
 
 SHOULDERS — These are used to make rolled 
 or boned hams; sometimes they are cured and 
 smoked, and are then called fore hams or Cali- 
 fornia hams; most often they are used for the 
 manufacture of sausages. 
 
 CAUL — The caul is mostly used for wrapping 
 around different stuffed pieces such as truffled 
 feet, stuffed cutlets, flat sausages, broiled liv- 
 ers, etc. 
 
 FRESH LARD-BACK FAT-LARDING PORK 
 — Fresh lard or back fat. The fat between the 
 skin and the flesh is called fresh lard or simply 
 lard. There are two kinds, melting fat and 
 hard fat; the first, or that nearest the flesh, is 
 easily known by the touch; it yields to a mod- 
 erate pressure of the fingers, and is used for 
 making lard. The other, or hard fat, adheres 
 to the skin and is not easy to melt; it is used 
 for larding and in the preparation of a great 
 number of products in the pork butchers' trade. 
 
 KIDNEY FAT --Is the fat that covers the 
 kidney and tenderloin; it is used for fine force- 
 meats and in black puddings, to which it gives 
 a delicate taste. From this fat also is obtained 
 a very fine white lard superior to ordinary 
 melted lard. 
 
 GUT FAT — The fat that adheres to the intes- 
 tines. If melted alone, lard of second quality 
 is produced; more often it is melted with other 
 lard so as to produce lard of ordinary quality. 
 
 LUNGS, LIVER, HEART, KIDNEYS, BRAIN, 
 SPLEEN — The lungs and liver form part of 
 the ingredients of various kinds of sausages, 
 liver pates, broiled and fried liver, etc. The 
 heart, kidneys and brain are prepared by the 
 culinary processes which are used for other 
 similar pieces of butchers' meat. The spleen 
 is generally used in sausages of an inferior 
 quality. 
 
 STOMACH — Comprises the small intestines, the 
 coecum, the colon and the rectum. The small 
 intestine is used as a casing for different kinds 
 of sausages, black pudding (boudin noir) etc. 
 The coecum, called also the bag or pocket, is 
 used, as also the colon and the rectum and fat 
 end for the packing of different sausages to 
 keep, and for the making of stuffed chitterlings. 
 The stomach or paunch requires long cooking, 
 after which it is used in common sausages and 
 chitterlings. 
 
 TONGUE, EARS, SNOUT, FEET, HAMS AND 
 TAIL — All these different pieces can be cooked 
 alone, or v/ith vegetables without any special 
 preparation being necessary. Very often they 
 are put for some days in a brine. The tongue, 
 ears and snout are used also for head cheese, 
 
 collared brawn, etc. The tongue can also be 
 used for converting into savory tongue. 
 PIGS FEET — The handling of which, so as to 
 produce a profitable return requires scientific 
 method and absolute cleanliness. The feet 
 should be used fresh as cut from the pig. The 
 front feet are always used first as they are the 
 best for turning into edible delicacies, and the 
 hind feet contain more bone. The toes are 
 pulled off and the hair clean shaved; the feet 
 should then be well washed and scraped, tak- 
 ing care not to cut them, as this causes them to 
 break when cooking; after cleaning, fresh water 
 should be kept running on them until they are 
 to be cooked. The constantly changing of the 
 water removes the blood and makes them more 
 inviting and whiter when cooked. 
 
 SKIN — The skin of the pig can be easily tanned. 
 It furnishes a leather superior to that of the ox. 
 It forms an important element in the making 
 of jellies. Skin left on salt meat preserves it 
 from the ravages of insects, and from the 
 effects produced by the air. 
 
 BLOOD — The blood of the pig is very valuable 
 for the manufacture of blood puddings. It is 
 used in cooking to thicken sauces; and it clari- 
 fies jellies and gives them a beautiful golden 
 tint. 
 
 HAIR — The hair or bristles are used extensively 
 in brush making. The bristles on the back 
 serve as needles for hand sewn boot and shoe 
 manufacturers. 
 
 HOOFS — Pulverized hoofs make a very rich 
 manure. They are also used in the manufac- 
 ture of glue and Prussian blue. 
 
 BONES — The bones are used in the making of 
 soups and jellies. After being cooked they 
 may be pulverised and used for manure. 
 
 BLADDERS— The bladders after being well 
 washed, blown and dried, are used for wrapping 
 round sausages, and for filling with lard, also 
 for hermetically sealing pots of preserves. 
 
 GALL — The liquid contained in the gall bladder 
 is very good for taking out grease stains with- 
 out taking out the color of even the most deli- 
 cate stuffs. Hence the products of the pig are, 
 taken together, of immense value. 
 
 BRINE FOR HAM, PICKLES, ETC.— Before 
 proceeding with the subject of pork I will draw 
 the "hotel butcher's" attention to the subject 
 of his pickling, and as in some parts of the 
 country the hotel keepers raise their own pigs 
 and desire their cooks to use up every part of 
 it to advantage I will give the receipts of ham 
 pickles. 
 
 Many butchers prepare their brines in a way 
 as simple as it is DEFECTIVE. They are con- 
 tent to dissolve a certain quantity of salt and 
 saltpetre in cold water. THIS BRINE DOES 
 
132 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 NOT PRESERVE, and must not be used for 
 delicate meats. 
 
 Put into a boiler and let boil for ten minutes 
 6 gallons of water, 21 pounds of salt, 6 pounds 
 of sugar, 2 pounds of saltpetre, stir well during 
 cooking, then empty out the brine and all that 
 remains undissolved, allow to become quite 
 cold, then add a quarter of a pound of mixed 
 whole spices; rub the meat with powdered 
 saltpetre and salt, place in the brine tub, pour 
 over the brine. This brine is excellent and 
 can be used for all kinds of meat, and notably 
 for meat where special brines are not indicated. 
 
 Boil as in the preceding 5 gallons of water, 8 
 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of gray salt, 2 >£ 
 pounds of sugar, o.y 2 pounds of saltpetre; allow 
 to cool, flavor with X pound of whole spices. 
 
 Boil and cool as above 10 gallons of water, 
 50 pounds of white salt, 4 pounds of gray salt, 
 4^4 pounds of saltpetre, 5 pounds of sugar, 
 flavor with y z pound of spices. 
 
 In some Italian provinces an excellent brine 
 is prepared, composed of 1J4 gallons each of 
 Barola wine and water, 8 pounds of white salt, 
 y 2 pound of gray salt, % pound of saltpetre, 
 flavored with thyme, bay leaves, basil, savory, 
 and juniper. 
 
 In Westphalia the hams are pickled with a 
 brine made with, 2^ gallons of water, 8 pounds 
 of salt, 2 pounds of sugar, ^ pound of salt- 
 petre, 2 ounces of spices tied in a muslin bag. 
 
 For Bayonne hams, the following brine is 
 used, \){ gallons each of good red wine and 
 cold water, 8 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of 
 gray salt, 2 ounces of saltpetre, and a flavoring 
 of sage, rosemary and lavender. 
 
 There are two principal processes for salting 
 meats: the wet process and the dry. Both 
 have their merits, and their combined use of- 
 fers advantages. THE WET PROCESS con- 
 sists in steeping meats in a brine for some time, 
 according to the thickness of the pieces of 
 meats; it is carried out by the big packing com- 
 panies, where the system of curing has reached 
 a most perfect condition. THE DRY PRO- 
 CESS: place the meats on the salting table, 
 powder them with fine saltpetre, rub well into 
 the meat, rub afterwards with gray salt (sea 
 salt). Arrange them one beside the other in 
 such a way that they will not get out of shape, 
 then cover evenly with white salt; this opera- 
 tion is renewed every two or three days until 
 the salt has been well soaked into the inside of 
 the flesh, a result which is obtained in from one 
 to four weeks, according to the size of the 
 pieces. This process is generally carried on 
 by salt meat exporters. 
 
 By the wet process the necessary salt flavor 
 is obtained, inasmuch as they are immersed in 
 brine more or less salted. With the dry pro- 
 cess, on the contrary, the meats coming into 
 
 immediate contact with the salt are impreg- 
 nated too strongly. 
 
 This difference in result is easily explained 
 through the action of the salt. In both methods 
 this condiment clears out the aqueous portions 
 of the blood in the tissues and thus preserves 
 the meat from taint. With dry salting it is 
 pure salt which saturates the meats. In the 
 wet process the brine, which acts like salt, be- 
 ing a solution of it, impregnates in a much less 
 degree the flesh, as it is so much weaker being 
 in solution. If the wet process is used, noth- 
 ing must be done until after the meats are 
 thoroughly chilled, which is not often complete 
 (according to temperature) before twelve to 
 eighteen hours. If this precaution is neglected, 
 and the warm meats were heaped into a brine 
 tub, not only would they become unshapely, but 
 they would become hot and ferment, the inevi- 
 table consequence of which would be their cor- 
 ruption and that of the brine. 
 
 With the dry process the meats can be salted 
 immediately after slaughter, which is favor- 
 able to the success of the operation. In fact, 
 it is known by the reason of its chemical com- 
 position, meat tends to decomposition as soon 
 as the animal ceases to live, and it is therefore 
 apparent that the less advanced is the tainting, 
 the greater is the success of the salting. 
 
 PICKLING OF ROLLED HAMS— Choose hams 
 that are not very fat, bone and trim them, 
 pickle in brine for two weeks, wash in fresh 
 water for an hour or so, brush the hams, beat 
 with a mallet so as to make them round and 
 uniform, tie with string, dry them in the air, 
 then smoke them. When these hams are dry 
 they can be served raw, but usually they are 
 served cooked. 
 
 FORE HAMS OR CALIFORNIA SHOULDERS 
 — Trim the shoulders, cut them round, put 
 through the dry process (as above) for three 
 days, then through the wet process for ten 
 days, take out of the brine, wash, scrub, dry, 
 smoke, and finish like ordinary hams. 
 
 PICKLING OF OX TONGUES— Cut away the 
 dead flesh, the gristle, and the fat which is 
 found at the root. Make on each side of the 
 root slight incisions to facilitate the salting. 
 Wash the tongues in running water, brushing 
 them well, dry with a cloth, rub them with 
 saltpetre, then with a mixture of 9 parts sait 
 and 1 part sugar, and put them in a good brine 
 for 12 days. Ox tongues, like those of pigs, 
 calves and sheep, have on their thick side a 
 slimy liquid, which easily taints the brine. 
 This is why it is important to well wash and 
 dry them before putting into the brine. 
 For the same reason tongues should always be 
 pickled alone in a special brine tub in which 
 only the necessary quantity of brine should be 
 put. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 133 
 
 PIGS HEAD STUFFED— More often called 
 "Boars Head (glazed)". Select a perfect head 
 with good ears; the head must be cut off full, 
 that is with two or three joints of the neck bone 
 left on; carefully bone it; the head is then well 
 washed in cold water to remove all blood, and 
 put into a spiced pickle for six days; it is then 
 well washed and stuffed tightly with pork sau- 
 sage meat, a piece of rind being stitched on 
 oack of head to keep the stuffing in. The head 
 is then placed on a thin board and another 
 piece placed alongside each cheek and tied in 
 position to keep head in shape; the whole is 
 now tied up in a cloth, and cooked gently, so as 
 not to break the ears, but long enough to cook 
 thoroughly; allow to cool, taking care to place 
 in position, so that it cools to a good shape with 
 ears erect; when cool insert glass eyes, and, if 
 available, a pair of tusks, then glaze and dec- 
 orate. 
 PIGEONS — The young ones called squabs, are 
 best split down the back, breastbone removed, 
 trussed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled 
 ia melted butter, broiled; served on toast 
 with maitie d'hotel or piquante sauces. 
 ROAST PIGEON— Young birds plucked, singed, 
 drawn, wiped, trussed with bacon over the 
 breast, roasted; served with their own gravy, 
 garnish with cress. 
 BREASTS OF PIGEON— Breasts of young birds, 
 seasoned, breaded, and broiled, or fried; or 
 coated with sauce then breaded and fried; 
 or the breasts sauteed then breaded and fried; 
 served with any garnish appropriate to dark 
 fleshed birds or game. 
 STEWED PIGEON WITH MUSHROOMS— 
 Separated into four joints, sauteed with butter, 
 taken up into a sautoir to which is added little 
 lean ham, button mushrooms sauteed, bunch of 
 pot herbs, seasoning, little red wine and stock, 
 the whole simmered till tender; served with the 
 mushrooms as a border. 
 PIGEON PIE — Into a deep pie dish place on the 
 bottom some thin slices of beef, then halves of 
 young pigeons, slices of bacon, some forcemeat 
 balls, mushrooms, and yolks of hard boiled 
 eggs, little chopped parsley, moisten with sea- 
 soned gravy, cover with a short paste, brush 
 the top with egg wash, and bake gently till 
 done, about an hour and a half. 
 POTTED PIGEON-Young birds plucked, singed, 
 drawn, wiped, stuffed with a mixture of grated 
 bread, chopped parsley, chopped suet, grated 
 hard boiled egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 
 trussed, placed into a crock with celery, thyme, 
 parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, glass of 
 Madeira and a little stock, cover, place in oven, 
 and cook gently till tender; served with the 
 strained gravy, garnished with cress and lemon. 
 
 COMPOTE OF PIGEON— Practically the same 
 
 as above, generally garnished with sauteed 
 button mushrooms. 
 
 PIGEON CROUSTADE— Young birds prepared 
 and trussed, arranged in a sautoir with slices 
 of bacon, moistened with chicken broth, stewed 
 till tender, taken up and placed in a toasted 
 fancy bread croustade; served with financiere 
 garnish poured around. 
 
 CURRIED PIGEONS— Small young birds, one 
 to the portion, prepared and trussed, placed in 
 oven with bacon fat and quickly browned and 
 basted, taken up into a curry sauce made of 
 chicken and game stock, to which is added a 
 grated green apple, simmered till tender; 
 served garnished with timbales of rice or ris- 
 soto. 
 
 CURRIED PIGEONS WITH RICE— Split the 
 birds in halves, take out the breast bone, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, roll them in curry 
 powder and then in flour, mince some onions 
 and a clove of garlic, fry them without much 
 color in oil of butter, take up the onions; then 
 fry the pigeons, moisten with stock, return the 
 onions, add a grated sour apple, also a spoonful 
 each of tamarinds and Bengal chutney with a 
 little preserved ginger, simmer slowly till done, 
 take up the birds, skim off any grease from the 
 curry, strain it over the birds; make a border of 
 dry boiled rice around the serving dish, place 
 two halves of birds in the centre with some of 
 the sauce poured over them. 
 
 STUFFED PIGEON WITH POTATOES-Draw 
 the bird as for roast, take out the breast bone, 
 stuff with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, 
 its own liver and heart minced with a little 
 bacon, grated lemon rind, salt and pepper. Ar- 
 range them in a sautoir, cover with stock and 
 simmer slowly till tender. Make a mound of 
 mashed potatoes on the serving dish, place a 
 pigeon on top, pour over some of the gravy 
 made from the stock the birds were simmered 
 in. 
 
 STUFFED PIGEON WITH VEGETABLES— 
 Prepare the birds and cook as in the preceding 
 recipe; when tender, take up the birds, then 
 boil some Julienne cut vegetables in the stock 
 the birds were simmered in, season, place the 
 bird on a slice of toast, pour the gravy over it, 
 and garnish with the drained vegetables. 
 
 LARDED PIGEONS, GARNISHED— Lard the 
 breast of the birds with bacon, arrange them 
 in a sautoir, moisten with chicken stock and 
 simmer till tender, take up, reduce the gravy to 
 a glaze, roll the birds in it, and serve each one 
 on a fancy croustade, pour over a little finan- 
 ciere sauce, and garnish the base with a ragout 
 of truffles, mushrooms, cocks combs and que- 
 nelles of chicken. 
 SALMIS OF PIGEONS— Take cold cooked birds, 
 split in halves, arrange in a sautoir, moisten 
 
134 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 with a game sauce, add a glass of sherry wine, 
 serve the birds on a fancy crouton, pour over 
 a little of the sauce and garnish with stoned 
 olives. 
 
 BRAISED PIGEON WITH FLAGEOLETS— 
 Prepare and stuff the birds as for "Stuffed 
 pigeons with potatoes," braise them slowly till 
 tender, take up, add a good brown sauce to the 
 contents of the brasiere, reduce, then strain it 
 over the pigeons; serve the bird on toast with a 
 spoonful of the sauce poured over; garnish with 
 some flageolets that have been sauteed in butter. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF PIGEONS— Draw the birds as 
 for roasting, take out the breast bone, stuff the 
 aperture with a veal forcemeat, tie up, blanch, 
 arrange in a sautoir, cover with a Veloute 
 sauce, put on the cover and simmer slowly till 
 tender; serve with green peas, and a fancy 
 crouton at each end of the dish. 
 
 BRAISED PIGEON, GARNISHED— Braise the 
 birds till tender, split them in halves, arrange 
 neatly on toast, pour over some of the strained 
 and skimmed braise, garnish with stoned olives, 
 button mushrooms, small quenelles, olive 
 shaped pieces of carrot and turnip that have 
 all been simmered in chicken or veal stock till 
 done. 
 
 ROAST PIGEON WITH TOMATOES— Take 
 young birds and stuff them with breadcrumbs 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, minced 
 parsley and onions parboiled in broth, add an 
 egg to bind, cover the breasts with broad thin 
 slices of bacon, roast, take up, add to the pan 
 they were roasted in some Espagnole sauce, 
 and a seasoning of Worcestershire sauce, boil 
 up and strain, then add to it a little tarragon 
 vinegar and chopped parsley; serve a spoonful 
 over each bird, and garnish with sauteed toma- 
 toes. 
 
 SAUTE OF PIGEON— Split the birds down the 
 back, remove the breast bone, flatten with the 
 cleaver, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
 flour, fry in butter - when done, take up and add 
 flour to the butter they were fried in, moisten 
 with stock, boil up and strain over the birds, 
 add some chopped estragon leaves and a spoon- 
 ful of tarragon vinegar, simmer a little while, 
 then serve. 
 
 SQUABS, SAUCE CRAPAUDINE— Draw the 
 birds as for roasting, then without detaching 
 the parts, cut the breast from the tip to the 
 wing joint, turn the two ends so as to look like 
 a frog, flatten with a blow of the cleaver, dip 
 in melted butter, then in fresh grated bread- 
 crumbs, broil slowly till done; serve with sauce 
 crapaudine. 
 
 BROILED PLOVER ON TOAST— Wipe the 
 birds but do not draw them, broil over a clear 
 fire, basting often with butter; serve on toast, 
 
 garnish with a crouton spread with currant 
 jelly. 
 
 ROAST PLOVER— Wipe the birds but do not 
 draw them, spread a thin piece of fat bacon 
 over the breast, roast quickly till done; serve 
 on a fancy croustade with a little game sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 BREAST OF PLOVER, EN SALMI— Wipe but 
 do not draw the birds, roast, take off the breasts 
 and simmer them in a game sauce containing 
 minced mushrooms, take the trail of the birds, 
 spread it on fancy croutons; serve the breasts 
 on a Duchesse potato, pour the sauce around, 
 and garnish with the croutons. 
 
 BREASTS OF PLOVER WITH SWEET- 
 BREADS — Roast the birds, then remove the 
 breasts and place them in a sautoir with a lit- 
 tle demi-glaze and some stoned olives. Take 
 small sweetbreads lard and braise them; serve 
 one of each with the sauce poured over them. 
 
 PINTAIL — Name of one of our common wild 
 ducks, is good stuffed and roasted, and in a 
 salmi. 
 
 PIQUANTE — Name of a sauce made with an 
 equal number of chopped shallots and green 
 gherkins, boiled till shallots are done in caper 
 vinegar, then is added some capers, bay leaf 
 and a few sprigs of thyme, boiled again till vin- 
 egar is reduced to one third of its original vol- 
 ume; remove the bay leaf and thyme, add 
 enough good Espagnole sauce and a little 
 chicken broth, till of the proper sauce consist- 
 ency. 
 
 PISTACHIO— Name of a pea green nut of al- 
 mond flavor, used by pastry cooks and confec- 
 tioners. 
 
 PLUMS — As there are so many varieties grown, 
 and all good for dessert, compotes, etc., I will 
 simply here append a few ways of taking care 
 of them when they are to be had very cheap. 
 
 PLUM MARMALADE— Rub the plums but do 
 not pare them, cut in halves and remove the 
 stones, weigh them, and allow half a pound of 
 sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the fruit in- 
 to a preserving kettle, add sufficient water to 
 cover the bottom, cover, and bring slowly to 
 the boiling point, then stir and mash the fruit 
 until fine, add then the sugar and some of the 
 kernels blanched and minced, boil and stir 
 continually for fifteen minutes, then draw to 
 one side and allow to simmer for twenty min- 
 utes more; pack away in stone crocks. 
 
 PLUM BUTTER— Select mellow fruit, peel and 
 remove stones, weigh the fruit then, and to each 
 pound allow three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
 place the fruit in preserving kettle, heat slowly 
 to boiling point, then mash till smooth, then 
 rub through a fine sieve into another kettle; 
 add the sugar and boil for fifteen minutes, stir- 
 ring continually; pack away in small jars. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 135 
 
 PLUM JELLY — Take common blue plums, wash 
 in cold water, place in preserving kettle, adding 
 two quarts of water to each bushel of fruit, 
 cover the kettle and heat slowly until the fruit 
 is soft and tender, then turn into flannel jelly 
 bag and let drip till fruit is dry. To every pint 
 of this juice allow one pound of granulated 
 sugar, put the juice into preserving kettle and 
 bring it quickly to the boil, add then the sugar 
 and stir till dissolved, then boil rapidly till it 
 jellies, about twenty-five minutes; remove scum 
 as it rises; as soon as it jellies, take jelly tum- 
 blers, roll them in boiling water, fill with the 
 boiling liquid, stand aside for 24 hours, then 
 screw on the covers. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING— As each and every pastry 
 cook has his own favorite recipe for this dish, 
 which is usually associated with Christmas, I 
 will simply append one that has always given 
 satisfaction to the best of critics: 
 
 Pound and a half of raisins stoned and freed 
 from stalks. . . Pound and a half of currants, 
 rubbed and freed from stones. . . Pound mixed 
 of citron, orange and lemon candied peels. . . 
 Two and a half pounds of finely chopped beef 
 suet. . . Two pounds of sifted flour. . . One and 
 a half pounds of brown sugar freed from lumps 
 . . . Eight eggs. . . One and a half pints of rich 
 milk. . . The grated rind and juices of two lem- 
 ons and two oranges. . . One ounce of mixed 
 ground nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. . . Half 
 a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix overnight before to be boiled in the 
 morning; fill into molds or into a buttered and 
 floured cloth; boil steadily for five hours; serve 
 with hard and brandy sauces. 
 
 PLUM CAKE — The finest wedding' cake as made 
 by a late employer of mine: 
 
 Pound and a half of sifted flour . . . Pound 
 and a half of pure butter. . . Pound of powdered 
 sugar. . . Pound of French cherries cut in 
 halves (cerises glaces). . . Pound and a half of 
 seeded raisins and cleaned currants (three- 
 quarters of each). . . Half a pound each of 
 shredded citron, orange and lemon candied 
 feels. . . Half a pound of finely chopped al- 
 monds. . . Eight whole eggs. . . Grated rind and 
 juice of four oranges. . . Half an ounce of 
 mixed ground cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. . . 
 Half a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of 
 salt. 
 
 POMPANO — A most delicious nutty flavored fish 
 of the Southern waters, broiled whole, or, if 
 large, filletted and broiled; served with maitre 
 d'hotel sauce, or melted butter and Tartar 
 sauce aside, garnished with lemon and fancy 
 potatoes. . . Broiled fillets of Pompauo served 
 spread with Montpelier butter and garnished 
 with Julienne potatoes. . . Filleted Pompano 
 sauteed with strps of bacon, served with it and 
 fancy potatoes. . . Small Pompano fried a deli- 
 
 cate brown with butter, butter oil then poured 
 off into another pan, browned, then is added 
 lemon juice and chopped parsley; served over 
 the fish, garnished with Saratoga chips. 
 
 PORGIE— Name of a small fish plentiful in the 
 Eastern States markets; served in every way 
 applicable to perch. 
 
 PORK TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET POTA- 
 TOES — Season the meat with salt, pepper and 
 sage, roll in flour, then in melted roast pork 
 drippings, arrange in baking pan with small 
 whole, or halved, peeled sweet potatoes, bake 
 till done with plenty of basting, about three- 
 quarters of an hour; serve with gravy made in 
 the pan they were cooked in. 
 
 STUFFED PORK TENDERLOIN— The meat 
 split and stuffed with sage and onion dressing, 
 tied with twine (which is afterwards removed), 
 baked and served as the preceding. 
 
 BROILED PORK TENDERLOIN— Split, sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and sage, rolled in 
 flour, broiled well done, basting with butter; 
 served with apple sauce, sauce Soubise or 
 sauce Robert. 
 
 BRAISED PORK TENDERLOIN— Braised with 
 vegetables and bacon; when done, the braise 
 strained and skimmed, then added to a sauce 
 Robert or Lyonnaise, the tenderloin dipped in 
 the sauce, then laid on a neat centre of puree 
 of sweet potatoes, little more of the sauce 
 poured around the base. 
 
 CURRIED PORK TENDERLOIN— Take any 
 unused tenderloins of the preceding receipt, 
 cut them in neat scallops quarter inch thick, 
 reheat them in a good curry sauce; served 
 garnished with small glazed onions at the sides 
 and a small mold of rice at the ends. 
 
 CORNED PORK TENDERLOINS— Use tender- 
 loins that have been in a good brine for three 
 days, wash, boil slowly for three-quarters of an 
 hour, take up and drain, then split in halves, 
 season with pepper and powdered sage, roll in 
 flour, arrange in baking pan, bake a delicate 
 brown, basting with sausage drippings, serve 
 garnished with Julienne vegetables in a cream 
 sauce. 
 
 ROAST LOIN OF PORK— With a boning knife 
 separate the joints on the chine bone of the 
 loin of pork (better than chopping it), season 
 with salt, pepper and sage, score the rind, ar- 
 range on a meat rest in baking pan, with sage 
 and onion dressing under the meat, bake in a 
 medium oven well done and brown; serve in 
 chops on a spoonful of the dressing, gravy at 
 the sides, and apple sauce served in a separate 
 dish; also roasted without dressing, and served 
 with Remoulade sauce. 
 
 ROAST LEG OF PORK— Legs 10 to 12 pounds 
 in weight are of best quality and most eco- 
 nomical. Remove the foot, score the rinds in- 
 
136 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 to dice shape, roast in a medium oven well 
 done two and a half to three hours; serve with 
 sage and onion dressing, gravy, and apple 
 sauce separate; or with tomato sauce, or Rob- 
 ert, or Piquante sauce, or with baked apples. 
 STUFFED LEG OF PORK— For serving cold. 
 Lay the leg on table skin side down, remove 
 the aitchbone, then cut along the leg bone to 
 the knuckle joint, remove the leg bone leaving the 
 knuckle bone in, fill the cavity with a stuffing 
 composed of fresh mashed potatoes, minced and 
 sauteed onion, salt, pepper, sage, pork sausage 
 meat and one whole egg to each leg of pork, 
 draw the meat together close, tie tightly, score 
 the rind, bake slowly with a few apples in the 
 pan, till done, basting with the apple juice and 
 gravy; then take up and allow to get thoroughly 
 cold; serve for luncheon or supper, in slices 
 garnished either with small pickled onions, 
 sliced gherkins, Tartar sauce, Remoulade 
 sauce, puree of cranberries or puree of apples. 
 After you have got the guests (especially in a 
 family hotel) to try this dish, you will have to 
 keep two or three on hand all the time to keep 
 up the demand. 
 
 BONED BOILED SALT LEG OF PORK— For 
 
 serving cold. Use a 12 pound leg, get it fresh, 
 remove the foot, rub with salt, wash it, pump 
 it with brine; then lay it in brine for four days, 
 take up, drain, remove the bones as in the pre- 
 ceding recipe, draw the meat together, letting 
 the thin side come right over the thick, tie 
 tightly with twine, put to boil in cold water 
 with a few bay leaves and an onion stuck with 
 cloves, boil slowly for one hour and a quarter, 
 then allow it to become thoroughly cold in the 
 water it was boiled in; serve in slices with a 
 garnish of horseradish mustard and a few 
 pickles, or sliced tomatoes with Tartar sauce. 
 or German potato salad. 
 
 COLD ROLLED BELLY OF PORK(STUFFED 
 OLIVES) — Nice lean bellies of pickled pork, 
 may be boned, rolled, tied, then wrapped in a 
 cloth and tied again like a roly poly pudding, 
 boiled till tender, taken up and allowed to be- 
 come cold in the cloth it was boiled in, the 
 cloth then removed, the pork wiped with a hot 
 wet cloth; served in slices garnished as above. 
 
 BROILED PORK CHOPS— Remove the rind, 
 cut the chops to an even thickness, trim off any 
 superfluous fat, season with salt and pepper, 
 roll in butter then in breadcrumbs and broil a 
 golden brown, or broil them plain, and serve 
 plain or with apple sauce, or with Robert, Tar- 
 tare, Anchovy, Curry, Bretonne, Soubise or 
 Lyonnaise sauces, or serve plain and garnished 
 with fried sweet potatoes or fried apples. 
 
 FRIED PORK CHOPS— Remove the rind or 
 leave it on (some like it on), season with salt 
 and pepper, roll in flour, fry with pork fat a 
 
 golden brown; serve plain or with tomato, 
 Robert, Piquante, Currj, Soubise or sage 
 sauces, or with fried apples. 
 PORK CHOPS SAUTEES-Trim the chops, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, fry them a golden 
 brcwn with butter. Make a stiff puree of split 
 peas, place a heaping spoonful in centre of 
 dish, place chop on it, and pour a little gher- 
 kin sauce over. 
 
 PORK CROQUETTES, ANCHOVY SAUCE— 
 Make the pork croquette mixture from cold 
 roast pork trimmings, season it with a little 
 sage, adding to stiffen it some perk sausage 
 meat; serve with a brown thick roast pork gravy 
 flavored with anchovy essence. 
 
 EMENCE OF PORK WITH FRIED APPLES 
 — Take the lean of cold roast leg of pork and 
 cut in circular slices size of half dollars, dust 
 them with salt, pepper and powdered sage, re- 
 heat them in sauce Robert; serve on toast; 
 garnished with slices of fried apples. 
 
 SALT PORK WITH PARSNIPS— Lean pickled 
 belly of pork, boil it with whole parsnips for 
 half an hour, take up and drain, then slice the 
 pork and quarter the parsnips, now fry the pork 
 a golden brown, then the parsnips in the pork 
 fat; serve two slices of each. 
 
 MINCED PORK WITH FRIED APPLES— 
 Lean minced fresh pork three parts; white 
 bread soaked in milk, then squeezed dry one 
 part; season with salt, pepper and powdered 
 sage, add a few beaten eggs, mix all thoroughly; 
 place it in a buttered baking pan, cover with a 
 sheet of buttered paper and bake in a medium 
 oven for an hour and a half, cut out in squares 
 or diamond shape when done and served with 
 fried apples. 
 
 FRIED SALT PORK WITH APPLES- -Take 
 the cold rolled belly of pork of a preceding 
 recipe, slice it in quarter inch thicknesses, roll 
 the slices in corn meal. Take sour cooking 
 apples, core them, slice in half inch thick- 
 nesses, then arrange the pork and apples alter- 
 nately in a baking pan, brown off of an even 
 color in a quick oven and serve. 
 
 FRIED PORK KIDNEYS— Take the kidneys 
 and split them, remove the white centres, soak 
 them in salted water containing a little vinegar 
 for an hour; then wipe dry, season with salt, 
 pepper and powdered sage, roll in flour, fry a 
 golden brown with butter; serve on toast, garn- 
 ish with Brussels sprouts and pour over the 
 kidneys a spoonful of maitre d'hotel butter. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES— These may be made in var- 
 ious ways according to the price per day or 
 meal of the hotel or restaurant. They are 
 rarely made of the pure meat, as when so made 
 they are too rich and unpalateable. If, how- 
 ever, a large proportion of the meat used be 
 lean the richness will to a great extent disap- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 137 
 
 pear. It is in all cases, however, advisable to 
 have present some cracker meal, bread or gran- 
 ulated rice, even if added only in small quanti- 
 ties, as by that means only, FIRMNESS can 
 be obtained. The hotel butcher or cook should 
 make all the sausages used for every purpose, 
 and not have them purchased from the meat pur- 
 veyor. In the case of the sausages that are 
 smoked, etc., and served as a relish, that part 
 of it can be always done by the people from 
 whom your hams are purchased for a mere 
 trifle. Further, it is my very firm convic- 
 tion, that, the ordinary hotel butcher knows 
 but little about sausage making. He should 
 know! and I shall here devote several pages of 
 this book to that teaching, with the hope that 
 it will enable the hotel butcher to become of 
 much more value to his employer, by economy, 
 and also to become a man proper to use the 
 title of butcher. Butchering is not merely cut- 
 ting roasts, chops, steaks, hams, bacon, and do- 
 ing general "garde mange" work; it consists of 
 a knowledge of what to do with meat in its 
 every use, and how to utilize every particle to 
 advantage, hence, as you have read so far in 
 this book, I have been profuse in explanations 
 of the uses of meat and how to properly take 
 care of it; as the BUTCHER'S BILL is al- 
 ways the heaviest one for the proprietor to 
 meet for the back part of the house. 
 
 DANISH SMOKED SAUSAGE— The following 
 recipes have been obtained from the largest and 
 best sausage factory of Copenhagen, Denmark. 
 For this recipe, use 25 pounds each of lean 
 beef and pork, 12 pounds of fat cut fine and 8 
 pounds of fat cut into small dice, two and a 
 half pounds of salt. 30 gram, powdered salt- 
 petre, 70 gram, powdered sugar, 85 gram, 
 ground white pepper. Remove all sinews, then 
 chop the beef *nd pork together; whsn about 
 half chopped, add the 12 pounds of fat and fin- 
 ish by chopping all fine, adding the seasonings 
 toward the finish; then work in thoroughly the 
 8 pounds of fat cut in small dice. When well 
 mixed the whole mass should be packed tightly 
 in a wooden trough for 24 hours so as to allow 
 the saltpeter to effect its color and also render 
 the mass more firm. The meat is then placed 
 into the sausage filler, and filled into beef cas- 
 ings as TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE. The tighter 
 the skin is filled, the better the sausage will be 
 for cutting when dried. When the casings aie 
 filled, they should be laid in a pickling tub and 
 lightly covered with coarse salt, place a board 
 on top and let them remain till the salt has 
 turned into pickle, then lift them out and hang 
 in the air until ALL moisture has run off them. 
 When dry, they should be smoked in cold 
 smoke until they are a rich dark brown in color. 
 The sausage is then ready for eating, and will 
 keep for several months. Length, about eigh- 
 teen inches. 
 
 CERVELATPOLSE OR DANISH BEEF AND 
 PORK SAUSAGE— For this recipe, use 25 
 pounds each of beef and pork, twelve and a 
 half pounds of pork fat cut in small dice, one 
 and a half pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
 saltpetre, 50 gram, ground white pepper, 50 
 gram, powdered sugar, 13 gram, each of ground 
 ginger and nutmeg. Remove all sinews, then 
 chop the beef and pork together quite fine, 
 adding the seasonings towards the finish, then 
 add the diced fat and thoroughly mix. When 
 mixed placed into the filler and fill TIGHTLY 
 into beef casings, tying into 18-inch lengths; 
 hang in the air for 24 hours, then smoke in 
 very warm smoke till the skins are brown; then 
 boil them until the sausage is as elastic as an 
 indiarubber ball and will bounce if dropped on 
 the table. This is a sure proof that the saus- 
 age is thoroughly cooked. When done, dry 
 them and glaze the skins. Serve as in the first 
 recipe, in slices, as an appetizer or Hors 
 d'oeuvre. 
 
 KNOCKPOLSE OR HARD SMOKED DANISH 
 SAUSAGE — For this recipe, use 21 pounds of 
 beef, 12 pounds each of veal and pork and 5 
 pounds of pork fat cut into small dice, one and 
 a quarter pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered 
 saltpetre, 15 gram, ground nutmeg, 20 gram, 
 each of ground cinnamon and ginger, 60 gram, 
 ground white pepper, 4 garlic cloves and 4 
 small shallots finely grated. First chop beef 
 and veal together half fine, then add the pork 
 and finish chopping till fine, adding the season- 
 ings towards the finish; then thoroughly work 
 in the pork fat cut in small dice. Place the 
 meat in the sausage filler and fill into hog cas- 
 ings, tying in six inch lengths, meat NOT to be 
 filled too tightly. When filled, hang to dry for 
 a day and smoke in warm smoke. Boil for eat- 
 ing hot or cold. 
 
 WEINERPOLSE OR BAVARIAN SAUSAGE— 
 For this recipe, use 25 pounds of pork, 12 
 pounds of veal, 12 pounds of pork fat, 20 
 ounces of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetre, 30 
 gram, ground coriander, 50 gram, powdered 
 sugar, 60 gram, ground white pepper, 2 garlic 
 cloves and 4 shallots grated fine. Use only the 
 best meat and CAREFULLY remove all 
 sinews. Mince the pork and veal together first, 
 then mince the fat, then thoroughly mix all to- 
 gether, adding the seasonings. Place into the 
 sausage filler and fill into sheep or lamb cas- 
 ings, tying into five inch links. Let them hang 
 for 24 hours, then smoke in warm smoke until 
 of a bright brown color; boil five to eight min- 
 utes, when they are ready for the table. 
 
 LEVERPOLSE OR LIVER SAUSAGE— For 
 this recipe, use 1 large pig's liver, 10 pounds of 
 veal (from the neck), 10 pounds of belly of 
 pork, 8 pounds of pork fat, 3 pounds of salt, 40 
 gram, powdered thyme, 50 gram, each of 
 
138 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 ground nutmeg and ginger, 60 gram, of pow- 
 dered marjoram, 140 gram, ground white pep- 
 per, 5 pounds of lean pork, 4 small onions in 
 winter, NONE in summer, as they easily cause 
 acidity. Remove sinews and gristle from the 
 pork and veal, boil them and mince together. 
 The fat to be cut into small dice, the liver to be 
 skinned, and the thick veins removed and to be 
 boiled in the boiling broth for five minutes; 
 then chop it a little, add a little salt, and mince 
 quite fine. Now throw the minced veal and 
 pork, diced fat and liver into the mixer along 
 with the five pounds of minced RAW lean pork, 
 add the spices and a cupful of the fat and water 
 from the broth and mix altogether thoroughly. 
 Place the meat into the sausage filler and fill 
 into hog casings NOT too tight, tying into 18- 
 inch lengths. Then boil the sausages in boil- 
 ing water 20 minutes, take up, wash them and 
 lay them on a table to cool. They are then 
 ready for the table, cut in slices cold. Are also 
 used fried in slices warm. This sausage can 
 be smoked in cold smoke in winter, and keeps 
 well. 
 
 LEVERPOSTEJ.LIVERWURST OR DANISH 
 LIVER SAUSAGE— 10 pounds of pigs' flare, 
 3 or 4 pig's livers according to size, 4 to 5 
 pounds of minced lean pork, 10 eggs, 6 to 12 
 anchovies according to size. Add pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg and cinnamon to season according to 
 taste. Fill into beef casings, boil two hours. 
 These are well liked by most people. 
 
 BEEF SAUSAGES— A good article for the 
 "help's hall". Take 20 pounds of flank of 
 beef freed from skin and bones, cut it up into 
 inch pieces and mix thoroughly into it 10 
 ounces of salt, 4 ounces of pepper, half an 
 ounce of ground nutmeg, and 2 ounces of 
 rubbed sage, then mince through the machine; 
 meanwhile soak 4 loaves of bread (eight pounds) 
 squeeze it dry and amalgamate with the meat, 
 then add DRY, three pounds of sifted cracker 
 meal; then place the whole into the sausage 
 filler and fill into sheep casings, link them; 
 then separate the links, arrange in baking pan, 
 and bake till done and brown, about 15 min- 
 utes. 
 
 BLOOD SAUSAGE- Use cheek meat, heart, 
 lungs, and pork rinds in any quantity that is 
 convenient. Cut the pork rinds into small 
 pieces, boil in clean water until three parts 
 cooked, saving the broth and the rinds. Cut 
 the balance of the meat together quite fine, 
 and boil it slowly with the pork rinds and 
 broth, allowing the broth to cover the meat. 
 Remove the fat that comes to the surface, cook 
 until it is well done. Take one gallon of calf's 
 or pig's fresh blood immediately after killing. 
 Stir it in a vessel 10 to 15 minutes until it will 
 retain its fluid condition. Then pass through 
 
 a fine sieve to break up any lumps. Mix 15 
 pounds of the cooked meat as above with one 
 gallon of blood and season to taste. Pour 
 through a funnel into beef middle casings, fill- 
 ing three parts full, the end being tied. Tie 
 the open end, and place the sausage in the 
 broth and allow it to boil. The blood, in cook- 
 ing, will expand and fill out the remaining part 
 of the casing. Stir continually, or the blood 
 will all collect in the lower side of the casing. 
 When cooked, the sausage will rise to the sur- 
 face, owing to the expansion of the air. Where 
 ever air collects, pierce with a fork or fat will 
 fill these places. When of a good appearance, 
 remove and wash in clean cold water and allow 
 it to remain there till cold. The sausage may 
 be improved by smoking cold over a low fire of 
 shavings and sawdust. A hot fire will cause it 
 to sweat and spoil its appearance. 
 
 BLOOD SAUSAGE (NORTH GERMANY)— 
 Boil fat pork till not quite cooked and then cut 
 it into small dice. To every 10 pounds boil 2 
 pounds of well dried pork rinds, and a calf's or 
 pig's lungs, or, instead of that, a corresponding 
 quantity of pork trimmings. When these are 
 boiled tender, put the rinds and lungs or trim- 
 mings through the mincing machine, scald the 
 pork dice, and add enough well beaten pig's 
 blood to make the whole moderately liquid, 
 then get the exact weight (reckon 12 pounds to 
 the gallon). To every gallon add 6 ounces of 
 salt, 1 ounce of white pepper, % ounce each 
 of ground cloves and marjoram. Stir all well 
 together and fill into casings. Boil about an 
 hour and a half until no blood oozes out on the 
 sausages being pricked. On coming out of the 
 boiler, wash in warm water, and lay on a table 
 to cool, and afterwards smoke for a few days 
 in cold smoke. (To every 10 pounds of sausage 
 meat, reckon about one and a half pounds of 
 blood). * 
 
 BLOOD SAUSAGE (FRENCH)— Take equal 
 quantities of lean and fat pork and boil it till 
 tender; then cut the fat into small dice and the 
 lean meat into small pieces. Meanwhile have 
 some onions, leeks and shallots steamed soft, 
 added to the above meat. To every 10 pounds 
 of this sausage meat add 2 pounds of pig's 
 blood, 5 ounces of salt, ]/ 2 ounce of white pep- 
 per and one tenth of an ounce each of ground 
 mace and thyme. Stir all well together and fill 
 into narrow hog casings. Boil until no blood 
 exudes on being pricked. Then remove and 
 wash in warm water, and let cool on a table. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGE— Use lean fresh meat, 
 trimmings and cheek meat. Chop together 
 very fine; while chopping add spices and sea- 
 soning, and from 25 to 30 ounces of salt to 
 every 100 pounds of meat. To every 100 
 pounds of beef add 5 pounds of pure fat, either 
 fresh or salted pork. When the beef is nearly 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 139 
 
 chopped add from one to one and a half pounds 
 of farina and sufficient water to suit; mix 
 thoroughly. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
 Tie the ends together into rings 24 inches long. 
 Smoke with hickory wood and hickory sawdust, 
 remove when well colored, cook in boiling 
 water. When the bologna is sufficiently cooked 
 it will rise to the top. Pepper and coriander 
 are the spices used for bolognas. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGE (ITALIAN)— Take 27 
 pounds each of raw lean pork, cooked pickled 
 pork and raw veal, 5 pounds of anchovies finely 
 chopped together. Then add 14 pounds of raw 
 fat pork cut in small dice; season with 18 
 ounces of salt, n ounces of white pepper, 4 
 ounces of ground caper, 21 ounces of peeled 
 pistachio nuts cooked in wine. After carefully 
 mixing the meat and spices, distribute amongst 
 it six pickled and cooked tongues cut in slices. 
 Then fill into beef middle casings or bungs. 
 Wrap each sausage in a clean cloth, tie round 
 with twine, then boil one hour, take up, lay 
 them out in a cool place for 24 hours, remove 
 the cloth, wipe with a warm cloth, pour over 
 them either colored or uncolored fat, then dec- 
 orate. 
 
 BRUNSWICK, CERVELAT SAUSAGE— For 
 every block of fifty pounds take 28 pounds of 
 lean pork, 10 pounds of lean beef freed from 
 sinews, 12 pounds of bacon fat cut in shreds, 2 
 pounds of salt, 3 ounces of coarse ground white 
 pepper, 1 ounce of powdered saltpetre, 2^ 
 ounces of powdered sugar. First mince the 
 beef very fine, then add the pork and mince 
 and mix the two together till the pork is about 
 the size of peas; then add the pork fat which 
 must be mixed until it shows amongst the rest 
 in pieces the size of beans; then add the mixed 
 spices and salt, mixing well. After a thorough 
 mixing, place into the filler and stuff tightly in- 
 to small middle beef gut casings. They must 
 now be hung in a well ventilated room of 60 
 degrees temperature for two weeks until they 
 begin to look red under the skins; then smoke 
 them in cold dry smoke until they take on a 
 cherry red color; then keep in a well aired 
 room for use or sale. 
 
 SARDINE AND LIVER SAUSAGE— For this 
 recipe, use 8 pounds of pigs liver, 7 pounds of 
 lean and 4 pouuds of fat fresh pork, 6 pounds 
 of fresh bacon and l /z a pound of sardines, 12 
 ounces of salt, 1% ounces of white pepper, ]/ z 
 an ounce each of ground ginger and marjoram, 
 and Yi of an ounce of ground thyme. Cut the 
 liver into strips, wash it, then blanch it; drain 
 dry, then chop it. Boil the lean pork for half 
 an hour, then chop with the liver; blanch the 
 fat pork and add it with the bacon and season- 
 ing and sardines, mincing all fine and thor- 
 oughly mixing. Fill this into skins nine inches 
 long, not too tightly, boil for half an hour with- 
 
 out pricking them, then take them up into cold 
 running water, letting the water run till they 
 are cold and firm. 
 
 MOSAIC SAUSAGE— Take an 18 pound leg of 
 pork, bone it out and remove all skin and 
 sinews, this will leave 15 pounds of meat; cut 
 this up, put into a stone crock after first rub- 
 bing into it 12 ounces of salt, 1 ounce of cane 
 sugar, and y 2 an ounce of powdered saltpetre; 
 put on the cover and allow to macerate for 24 
 hours, then take it from the crock and mince it 
 with 5 pounds of lean veal, adding during the 
 mincing 1 ounce of white pepper, l /$ of an 
 ounce each of mace and ginger and one-sixth of 
 an ounce of cardamons. Then fill into skins 6 
 inches thick and 8 inches long, three parts full. 
 To make the mosaic work use long inch square 
 pieces of red cooked tongue each wrapped 
 neatly with a thin shred of bacon fat, also a 
 column each of blood sausage, Frankfort sau- 
 sage and liver sausage, each wrapped like 
 the tongue. To insert these columns, take a 
 stick a little thicker than the column, dip it in- 
 to cold water, push it into the sausage, with- 
 draw it, then slip in the mosaics at equal dis- 
 tances, then tie the sausage, hang up in smoke 
 for one hour, then boil very gently for an hour 
 and three quarters, then smoke again lightly 
 [N. B. Both while smoking and simmering, 
 keep the sausage in an upright position so that 
 the inlaying may be kept straight]. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE SAUSAGE— This makes a nice 
 breakfast sausage: Take 12 pounds of lean and 
 6 pounds of fat pork, cut it into small pieces and 
 rub well into it 9 ounces of prepared sausage 
 seasoning, pass through the mincing machine, 
 then mix into it 3 pounds of scalded rice, 2 
 pounds of cracker meal. Place the whole then 
 into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link up 
 and use. 
 
 COBLENZ SAUSAGE— A good seller for restau- 
 rants: Take 10 pounds each of veal and pork, cut 
 it up and allow to macerate for 24 hours after 
 being rubbed with 12 ounces of salt and % an 
 ounce of powdered saltpetre. First chop the 
 veal very fine, then add the pork and chop all 
 together, adding r ounce of white pepper, ^ of 
 an ounce each of ground ginger and peppermint, 
 three shallots and three cloves of garlic. Mince 
 till the fat shows through the rest like pin heads, 
 then add water as much as the meat will take, 
 leaving it very stiff; place then into the filler, fill 
 into sheep casings, link them up into 6 to the 
 pound; hang up for some hours to dry: then 
 smoke with mixed sawdust at a temperature of 
 ioo" Fahr, till they are a beautiful dark orange 
 color, about 1 hour. To serve, simmer them 
 for 10 minutes. 
 
 EPPING SAUSAGE— (1). 23 pounds of lean 
 beef, 7 pounds of fat pork, 8 pounds of bread, 
 
140 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 soaked and pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pep- 
 per, 13 ounces of salt, % of an ounce each of 
 ground nutmeg and ginger, % of an ounce of 
 rubbed marjoram. Mix the seasonings with 
 the meat, mince fine, then work in the bread; 
 place into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link 
 them, and use by frying and broiling. 
 
 EPPING SAUSAGE— (2). 30 pounds of pork 
 fat and lean, 8 pounds of bread soaked and 
 pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pepper, 13 
 ounces of salt, % of an ounce each of mace 
 and rubbed sage. Prepare and use as above. 
 
 FRANKFORT SAUSAGES(WEINERWURST) 
 — 9 pounds of veal, 36 pcunds of lean pork and 
 5 pounds of fat pork. Chop finely, adding a 
 seasoning of 1 pound of salt, 6 ounces of white 
 pepper, and one head of garlic; when ready 
 place into the filler and fill into sheep casings, 
 linking them at about four to the pound. Smoke 
 for 48 hours, boil for 5 minutes before serving 
 plain or with sauerkraut, etc. 
 
 CHICKEN HAM AND TONGUE SAUSAGE— 
 10 pounds of lean pork, 4 pounds of fat pork, 4 
 pounds of veal, 2 pounds of ox tongue, 4 pounds 
 of granulated rice scalded, 2 pounds of cracker 
 meal, the meat from one fowl and six hard 
 boiled eggs, 9 ounces of salt, 3 ounces of pep- 
 per, y z an ounce each of ground mace and 
 finely chopped parsley, and % of an ounce of 
 powdered thyme. Cut the meats into pieces, 
 add the seasoning and rice, mince altogether till 
 fine, then the eggs minced, and the meal, fill into 
 weasand casings, simmer slowly for an hour, 
 use cold in slices. 
 
 TRUFFLED LIVER SAUSAGE-Take 5 pounds 
 of pig's liver and 3 pounds of fat pork. Mince 
 these together very fine, and add a % of a pound 
 of truffles cut into narrow strips and cooked in 
 wine. Add a seasoning of salt and pepper and 
 knead together. Fill into narrow hog casings, 
 simmer for about half an hour, wash well in cold 
 water and hang up to dry. If to be kept any 
 time, smoke for a dry. Take care to use no 
 spices, otherwise the flavor of the truffles will be 
 spoiled. 
 
 GOOSE LIVER SAUSAGE, TRUFFLED-Take 
 2 pounds of well blanched calf's liver cut in 
 pieces the size of small nuts, 4 pounds each of 
 lean and fat firm fresh pork both minced very 
 fine. Next add 4 shallots sliced and fried with 
 butter to a golden color. Season with 5 ounces 
 of salt, ]/ z an ounce of white pepper, one-fifth 
 of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace. 
 Then cut from a fine red cooked tongue half 
 a pound, cut in very small dice also a quarter 
 of a pound of truffles; mix all well. Then take 
 5 pounds of geese livers blanched and sliced. 
 Fill into the filler alternately the truffled meat 
 and the sliced geese [livers. Then press into 
 very wide pig skins not more than 12 inches 
 
 long. Boil them gently one hour in fresh clear 
 water. When done, take up into cold running 
 water, which will make them beautifully white. 
 LIVER SAUSAGE— To every two hog's livers 
 add one calf's liver; cut in thin slices. Scald 
 well with hot water until the livers look white 
 and clean. Chop well, adding one-eighth the 
 amount of pure pork fat, boiling the fat for half 
 an hour before mixing. Mix and chop together 
 very fine, adding four ounces of fat pork to 
 every five pounds of the balance. Then boil 
 for half an hour, adding the following spices to 
 each 100 pounds: 7 ounces salt, 2 ounces pep- 
 per, 1 ounce ground marjoram, Yz ounce each 
 of ground sage, basil and thyme, 2 minced 
 onions and a small head of garlic. Stuff from 
 stuffer into narrow hog casings 13 to 18 inches 
 long (not filling very full) tying the ends with 
 twine. When filled and tied, they are cooked 
 in water just below the boiling point for thirty 
 minutes (to give the white appearance) contin- 
 ually stirring them. Care must be taken to 
 prick the air places, or they will fill with fat. 
 After cooling, hang for three days in the open 
 air, then smoke for six days over a slow fire. 
 SARDINE LIVER SAUSAGE— Use 40 pounds 
 boiled pigs' livers, 7^ pounds boned and 
 trimmed sardines, 15 pounds cooked veal, 7% 
 pounds cooked lean pork, 20 pounds cooked fat 
 pork, 10 pounds raw fat pork. Chop together 
 very fine, and add 14 ounces salt, 10 ounces 
 white pepper, 1 ounce each ground thyme and 
 marjoram. Stuff into beef middle casings. 
 Cook and smoke the same as the liver sausage 
 of the preceding recipe. 
 LYONS SAUSAGE — (German recipe). The 
 Lyons sausage (Saucisse de Lyon) was intro- 
 duced into Germany in ths year 1852 by Lill 
 on his return from his tour in France. Sausage 
 makers throughout Germany then tried to make 
 it, because of his success with it, but no one 
 else succeeded. It can only be manufactured 
 to keep by taking the greatest of care. When 
 it is well made and well dried, it would pass for 
 Cervelat sausage. It is prepared in the follow- 
 ing manner: For a quantity of 40 pounds take 
 25 pounds of well fed pork, 10 pounds beef from 
 a young bullock, which should be chopped up 
 when warm and then pounded in mortar, 5 
 pounds pork fat, cut into dice the size of peas 
 and then cooked for a little in boiling water, 12 
 ounces salt, 2 ounces Indian cane sugar, 1 ounce 
 powdered saltpetre. Mix the two lean meats, 
 then mix the salt, saltpetre and sugar. Rub 
 them into the meats, and let it stand for 48 
 hours in a cool room in summer, and a warm 
 room in winter. Now chop up the meat fine, 
 then mix the seasonings and add them. They 
 are 2 ounces white pepper, % ounce each of 
 ground white ginger and nutmeg, 2 shallots 
 salted and grated. Before the pork fat is put 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 141 
 
 amongst the rest, the spices should be well 
 mixed up amongst the other things and a little 
 water worked into the mass. Now mix in 
 lightly and quickly the pea diced pork fat. Put 
 the meat into medium wide beef runners, 15 
 inches long, pressing it in very tight. Now 
 DRY the sausages WELL before smoking. 
 When they are smoked a fine red color, put 
 them at once into a saucepan, and cook for half 
 an hour at a heat of 203^ Fahr. When the 
 sausages are cool, there are usually some 
 wrinkles in the skin; this can be remedied by 
 putting them in pairs into boiling water not 
 more than fifteen seconds. After they arecocl 
 again, they should be smoked in cold smoke for 
 eight hours; they are then ready. 
 OBERLAND LIVER SAUSAGE — Take a 
 shoulder of pork and remove the bones and 
 skin. Boil it well with three pounds of bacon 
 cut in dice. Then mince the shoulder with 
 half its weight of raw liver and a large onion 
 chopped very fine; add the diced bacon and 
 season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, 
 and mix in a little fat if the paste is too stiff. 
 Stuff into ox skins and boil gently for 40 min- 
 utes. Then take up into cold running water, 
 and keep them in it until quite stiff. 
 POLISH SAUSAGE— This is the national sau- 
 sage of Poland, liked by rich and poor: Take 
 25 pounds of pork, 73 lean, and y$ fat, which 
 has been salted for a few days with 1 pound 
 salt and a little sugar. Grate finely three large 
 cloves of garlic, salt them, stir in amongst them 
 a quart of water. Then add the meat which 
 has been chopped into dice size. Now add i}i 
 ounces pepper, l / z ounce grated nutmeg. Mix 
 well and put into narrow pig skins very full. 
 When filled, tie into fifteen inch lengths; hang 
 to dry for a day; then smoke them with beech 
 wood at a heat of 133" Fahr. , and let them hang 
 till they are thoroughly cooked inside merely 
 with the hot smoking. 
 PORK SAUSAGES (first class)— Take 15 pounds 
 of lean and 6 pounds of fat pork, cut it up into 
 two inch pieces and mix with it 14 ounces of 
 pork sausage seasoning, (from recipe below); 
 chop together fine, or run through meat cutting 
 machine with a fine plate; then thoroughly in- 
 corporate with it 3 pounds of crumb bread 
 soaked and pressed. V/hen mixed, further 
 work in one pound of sifted cracker dust. 
 Place the mass then iuto the sausage filler, and 
 run into pig casings, linking them at six to the 
 pound. 
 PORK SAUSAGES(good ordinary sausage)-Take 
 15 pounds lean and fat pork and pork trim- 
 mings, cut it up into two-inch pieces and mix 
 with it 11 ounces of pork sausage seasoning; 
 chop fine, then thoroughly incorporate with it 4 
 pounds of crumb bread soaked and pressed. 
 When mixed, further work in 4 pounds of sifted 
 
 cracker dust, adding cold water to it as it be- 
 comes too stiff. When of the proper sausage 
 consistency, place into the filler, and fill into 
 pork casings, linking them six to the pound. 
 PORK SAUSAGE SEASONING — Thoroughly 
 mix together, then keep in tight covered tins, 
 9 pounds table salt, 6 pounds pure ground 
 white pepper, l / z pound each of ground mace, 
 ground nutmeg, and rubbed sage leaves, 1 ounce 
 each of ground cloves, ginger and rubbed basil, 
 and y z an ounce of cayenne pepper. 
 SALAMI — Use 50 pounds of beef free from fibre, 
 25 pounds each of lean and fat pork, chop very 
 fine and add i% l / 2 ounces of salt, 4>2 ounces 
 ground white pepper, i l / 2 ounces ground salt- 
 petre, with 8 glasses of Rhine wine, in which 
 previously has been soaked one pound of garlic. 
 (In place of Rhine wine, rum may be used). 
 Stuff into calf's bladders. Let them hang in 
 the open air for two or three weeks, then smoke 
 for 12 days. 
 VERONA SALAMI (Salami de Verona)— Use 18 
 pounds of cleaned beef, 18 pounds of lean pork, 
 14 pounds of back fat, 2 pounds of salt, 1 ounce 
 of powdered saltpetre, 3 ounces each of ground 
 white pepper and cane sugar, 1 gill of old 
 French cognac. First mince the meat, thei 
 chop the fat in amongst it the size of pecan 
 nuts; then mix in the spices, and chop until the 
 fat is the size of peas. Wipe the knives often 
 while mincing. Three sticks of garlic finely 
 grated may be added. Use skins for holding 
 this, and bind with pretty thick string all the 
 way over. For the rest, prepare like "Cerve- 
 lat sausage" but do not smoke; only let the salami 
 hang for four or five weeks to dry. 
 SMOKED SAUSAGE OR KNACKWURST— 
 Take 60 pounds of lean pork, 14 pounds of 
 lean beef and 26 pounds of fat pork. Chop very 
 fine, then add 1 pound salt, sH ounces ground 
 pepper, i}4 ounces ground saltpetre, 2^ ounces 
 whole caraway seeds, a small quantity of grated 
 garlic. Stuff in beef rounds or hog casings. 
 Hang in the air for 8 days, then smoke for 6 
 days, they may then be preserved in a cool 
 dry place. 
 TENDERLOIN SAUSAGE— Take the pork 
 tenderloins and trim them as near the shape of 
 a sausage as possible; rub with hot salt, and 
 place for two weeks in a vessel containing a 
 solution of 17 ounces of salt boiled in 5 pints of 
 water. Remove, wash, and stuff tightly in 
 beef bungs. Smoke for two weeks. 
 THURINGIAN RED SAUSAGE— 14 pounds 
 thick streaky pork off the belly part (half tend- 
 erly cooked) cut in quarter inch dice, 3 pounds 
 of boiled pigs rinds, 4 pounds raw liver and 
 lungs finely minced. This may be varied by 
 substituting boiled tongue or salted boiled 
 heart, cut into pieces of equal size. Now put 8 
 
142 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 pounds of blood in a tin dish, and then into a 
 big pot, and stir CONSTANTLY until hot. 
 Add first the rind, liver and lungs, and stir 
 well, and then the pork. Season with 24 ounces 
 of table salt, 3 ounces ground white pepper, 1 
 ounce ground marjoram, ]4, of an ounce each 
 of ground caraway seeds and ground cloves. 
 Work all thoroughly together, and as quickly 
 as possible fill the hot meat into the widest 
 pigskins you have. Give plenty of room, and 
 then put at once into water which is BOILING 
 HARD; stir constantly. Prick this sausage 
 often, and cook at a temperature of 212 Fahr. 
 It is ready when, on pricking, the fat which ex- 
 udes is perfectly clear. Smcke in cold smoke, 
 with some juniper berries in the sawdust. 
 
 TOMATO SAUSAGES- -Lean mutton 6 pounds, 
 mutton fat 8 pounds, canned tomatoes 3 pounds, 
 sifted cracker dust x l /2 pounds, scalded granu- 
 lated rice 1 pound, 10 ounces sausage season- 
 ing. Cut the meat up fine in the machine, take 
 out into a mixer, and add the rice and tomatoes, 
 then the seasoning and the cracker dust. Place 
 in the filler, fill into sheep casings, and link 
 them 6 to the pound. (When cheap enough, 
 use fresh tomatoes). 
 
 VEAL SAUSAGES— Chop together 22 pounds of 
 veal freed from sinew and n pounds of bacon, 
 and make very fine; season with 12 ounces of 
 salt, iy 2 ounces ground white pepper, 3 nut- 
 megs grated and y 2 ounce of ground mace. 
 Knead all together, adding a pint of milk. Fill 
 into narrow skins. 
 
 WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGE— Take three parts 
 of lean and one part of fat pork, and cut into 
 pieces like small dice; then season with salt, 
 pepper and cloves, so that it tastes mildly of 
 the spices, and knead all together. Stuff into 
 long narrow casings, and let dry out of doors 
 for several days; then smoke yellow. NOTE: 
 The above sausage is made almost exactly like 
 the 
 
 SASTER SAUSAGE of the country people of 
 Scotland, only the Scotch omit the smoking, 
 and the "sasters" are dried by hanging from a 
 string attached to the ceiling in the kitchen. 
 The Scotch sausages are usually kept for sev- 
 eral months before being used. 
 
 POTATOES are much improved if peeled and 
 laid in cold water overnight. It saves time in 
 the morning, and they are nicer and whiter in 
 consequence. 
 
 IN STEAMING POTATOES, put a cloth over 
 them before placing on the steamer lid, they 
 will then take less time to cook and be much 
 more mealy than when steamed without the 
 cloth. 
 
 TO EXTRACT FROST FROM POTATOES— 
 After paring, put them in cold water for an 
 
 hour, boil them with a small piece of saltpetre 
 and the sweet taste will be removed. 
 
 POTATOES BAKED IN THEIR SKINS, will 
 always come out more dry and mealy, if a small 
 piece be cut off ONE end, to allow steam to 
 escape in cooking. 
 
 POTATOES WHEN BOILING are sometimes 
 allowed too much water, so that it boils over 
 on to the range, producing a very disagreeable 
 smell. A little baking soda thrown on to any 
 burning overflow of this nature will immed- 
 iately drive away all odors. 
 
 FRENCH FRIED POTATOES— Raw peeled 
 potatoes cut in strips about the size of the little 
 finger, fried in hot fat till done, taken up and 
 drained, sprinkled with salt, then served. 
 
 PARISIENNE POTATOES-Balis about the size 
 of small cherries scooped out of raw potatoes; 
 cooked and served the same as French fried. 
 
 LYONNAISE— Cold boiled potatoes, either 
 minced or sliced thinly, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper, mixed with a little chopped parsley and 
 minced fried onions; fried with butter in the 
 form of an omelet. 
 
 SAUTE— Also called HOME FRIED, COT- 
 TAGE FRIED, GERMAN FRIED: are thinly 
 sliced cold boiled potatoes, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, browned on both sides in a fry pan 
 containing butter. For RESTAURANT serv- 
 ice they should be served in the form of an 
 omelet, nicely browned. 
 
 STEWED IN CREAM— Raw potatoes cut in 
 very small dice, boiled till perfectly done, 
 drained, put in a stew pan with a piece of good 
 butter, seasoned with salt, covered with cream, 
 simmered for two or three minutes, then served. 
 
 HASHED IN CREAM— Same as the preceding, 
 but having the potatoes minced after whole 
 boiling, instead of cut in dice. 
 
 SCALLOPED POTATOES— Same as stewed in 
 cream above; when rerdy to serve, put into 
 scallop or vegetable dishes, sprinkle with grated 
 cheese and breadcrumbs, brown off quickly in 
 the oven or under a salamander. 
 
 HASHED BROWNED— Same as the minced 
 Lyonnaise, but omitting the parsley and onion. 
 
 JULIENNE — Raw peeled potatoes cut in shreds 
 like matches, fried a delicate brown in very hot 
 lard, taken up and drained, sprinkled with salt 
 and fine parsley dust. 
 
 STEWED WITH BACON— Bacon cut in small 
 dice, fried well done, drained, mixed in with 
 potatoes stewed in cream. 
 
 POTATOES REITZ— Shapes of the parallelo- 
 gram, or long square (about two inches long 
 and an inch square) cut with a ribbed scallop 
 knife, steamed two-thirds done, then plunged 
 into hot fat and finished like French fried. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 M3 
 
 POTATOES VILLAGEOISE— Cold boiled pota- 
 toes, minced and simmered in Bechamel sauce. 
 
 SARATOGA CHIPS— Very thin shavings of 
 peeled potatoes cut with a machine, steeped in 
 ice water to draw out the starch and beccme 
 crisp; fry a few at a time in very hot lard. 
 
 POTATOES BROILED— Either plain or sweet 
 potatoes, cold boiled, cut lengthwise one-fourth 
 of an inch thick, seasoned with salt, dipped in 
 melted butter, then in flour, broiled between a 
 a wire hinged broiler; served with maitre 
 d'hotel butter over them. 
 
 STUFFED FOTATOES— Whole peeled pota- 
 toes, made hollow with a column cutter, ends 
 levelled, the both then steamed, the column 
 pieces mashed, and mixed with one-third of its 
 bulk of grated Parmesan cheese; seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, grated nutmeg and bound with 
 some whipped eggs; stuff the potatoes with the 
 mixture, arrange in a baking pan with butter 
 and brown off quickly. 
 
 STUFFED FOTATOES— Large oval shaped po- 
 tatoes, peeled, hollowed out as above, filled with 
 any kind of forcemeat, placed in a well buttered 
 pan, and baked a delicate brown. 
 
 POTATO CROQUETTES— Steamed potatoes' 
 mashed dry, seasoned with salt, butter and a 
 few raw egg yolks, formed into shapes like 
 corks, breadcrumbed and fried. Also shaped 
 like olives with two tea spoons, dipped in bat- 
 ter and fried. 
 
 STUFFED POTATO CROQUETTES— Smab 
 croquettes in the form of ccnes, breaded and 
 fried, drained; inside then partly hollowed out. 
 and replaced with a salpicon; served upright. 
 
 POTATOES DUCHESSE —Potato croquette 
 mixture, only a little softer, with butter and 
 yolks of eggs, forced from a bag with a star 
 shaped tube, on a buttered pan, brushed over 
 with egg wash and baked. 
 
 POTATO FRITTERS— The croquette mixture- 
 with some beaten whites of eggs worked in, 
 shaped, breaded, fried; served with parsley 
 sauce poured over. 
 
 POTATOES ORSINI— One part croquette mix- 
 ture, one part well cooked rice, one part grated 
 tongue, the whole mixed, formed into small 
 balls, breaded, fried and served. 
 
 POTATO CASSEROLES— The croquette mix- 
 ture shaped liked a small nest, brushed over 
 with beaten egg, baked a delicate brown; used 
 to receive salpicons. 
 
 POTATO PATTIES— Very small casseroles, 
 filled with a salpicon of game or fowl. 
 
 POTATOES CREOLE— Like the patties preced- 
 ing, but filled with a Creole garniture; these 
 make fine entree garnishes. 
 
 STEWED PARISIENNE POTATOES— Scoop 
 out small balls from raw potatoes, put them in- 
 
 to a sautoir wich butter and a seasoning of salt, 
 put the lid on and stew gently till done; served 
 sprinkled with parsley dust. 
 
 CURRIED POTATOES— Same as the preced- 
 ing, adding a spoonful of curry powder while 
 stewing. 
 
 POTATO RAGOUT— Same as the stewed Pari- 
 sienne, but when nearly done, taken up and 
 drained, then placed into a good Espagnole 
 sauce, and simmered till done. 
 
 POTATO QUENELLES— The croquette mix- 
 ture rolled into very small balls, dipped in 
 beaten eggs, then in flour, fried very quickly 
 (else they burst) in very hot lard. 
 
 POTATO PUFFS— Cut out with a large column 
 cutter the inside of large raw pr tatoes, level 
 the ends, then cut into four pieces each column, 
 lengthwise. Have two French friers on the 
 range half full of lard, one hotter than the 
 other; fry the potatoes five minutes in the one, 
 then take up, and plunge into the very hot one; 
 they will then puff out quickly. 
 
 POTATOES BERNHARDT— Twirled out like 
 a curl with a cutter, fried in hot lard, taken up 
 and drained, sprinkled with salt and parsley 
 dust. 
 
 POTATOES VICTORIA— The croquette mix- 
 ture shaped like walnuts, breaded and fried 
 
 GLAZED POTATOES- Very large balls scooped 
 out of steamed potatoes, seasoned with salt, 
 dipped in beaten eggs, browned quickly in a 
 hot oven. 
 
 POTATOES NAVARRAISE— Cut with a scal- 
 lop knife very large dice from peeled raw pota- 
 toes, steam them till barely done, finish of a 
 fine color in boiling oil. 
 
 POTATOES MAITRE D'HOTEL— Raw pota- 
 toes peeled, cut in sections like a section of an 
 orange, steamed till barely done, then sim- 
 mered till done in a thin Veloute sauce contain- 
 ing chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a grat- 
 ing cf nutmeg. 
 
 POTATOES INDIENNE— Marinade for three 
 hours some minced onions and hot green 
 chillies in lemon juice, add a little French 
 mustard at the finish. Mix all into some light 
 dry mashed potatoes, season with salt, use as a 
 border to a curry, with, or instead of, boiled 
 rice or rissoto 
 
 POTATOES IN CASES— Very thin slices of 
 cold boiled potatoes and onions, mixed together 
 with a little minced parsley, filled into fancy 
 paste cases, with a little butter, sprinkle with 
 Parmesan cheese, and bake till browned and 
 heated through. 
 
 POTATOES HOLLANDAISE— Cut like sec- 
 tions of garlic, steamed; served with maitre 
 d'hotel sauce over them. 
 
 POTATOES MARIE-Steamed potatoes, mashed, 
 made soft and rich with cream and butter. 
 
c 44 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 POTATOES GASTRONOME— (i) Raw, cut 
 with column cutter, size and shapes of corks, 
 steamed barely done, then fried with butter till 
 done and of a golden color; served sprinkled 
 with salt and parsley dust. (2) Cut same as 
 No. 1, parboiled in water containing a little vin- 
 egar, drain, then saute with butter till done, 
 take up and serve with Perigueux sauce. 
 
 POTATOES MAIRE— Cut with a large column 
 cutter tubes of raw potatoes, cut these into 
 slices six to the inch, boil till barely done, then 
 simmer till done in reduced cream. 
 
 POTATOES MONACO— Slices same as Maire, 
 cooked same as Gastronome No. 1. 
 
 POTATOES GENEVOISE— Take small fancy 
 patty pans, butter them well, then coat the in- 
 side with grated cheese, fill with mashed pota- 
 toes, sprinkle with grated cheese, bake half an 
 hour in a medium oven. 
 
 POTATOES CONDE— Scoop out balls of raw 
 potatoes with a large scoop, steam barely done, 
 then fry till done and brown in clarified butter, 
 serve sprinkled with salt and parsley dust. 
 
 POTATOES COLBERT— Cold boiled and peeled 
 potatoes, cut in large dice, simmered in Colbert 
 sauce; when serving, sprinkle with parsley 
 dust. 
 
 POTATOES CHATEAU— Olive shapes of pota- 
 toes turned out with an oval scoop, blanched, 
 drained, fried a light color in clarified butter. 
 
 POTATOES BARIGOULE— Take small round 
 new potatoes, steam till barely done, then 
 plunge into boiling oil till brown; serve 
 sprinkled with salt, pepper and tarragon vine- 
 gar. 
 
 POTATOES BRETONNE — Cut cold boiled 
 potatoes in squares with a scallop knife, saute 
 with a little chopped parsley, then simmer in 
 Bretonne sauce. 
 
 POTATOES BRABANT — Cut like for Bre- 
 tonne, sauteed with minced shallot and parsley. 
 
 POTATOES BIGNONNE— Scoop balls out of 
 raw potatoes with largest sized scoop, take the 
 centre out with a column cutter, blanch, drain, 
 fill centres with forcemeat, then bake till done 
 and brown with butter. 
 
 POTATOES BRABANCONNE— Dry mash some 
 steamed peeled potatoes, mix in some minced 
 parboiled onions, a little chopped parsley and 
 Parmesan cheese, with a little cream sauce, 
 bake in paper cases. 
 
 POTATOES ANGLAISE— (1) Scoop balls out 
 of raw potatoes with a very large scoop, par- 
 boil with a little salt and vinegar in the water, 
 take out, drain, then fry till done and brown in 
 roast meat drippings. (2) Raw potatoes peeled, 
 trimmed, quartered, steamed; served with 
 maitre d'hotel sauce over them. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (1)— One pound of mashed 
 potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 
 
 one gallon of very thin cream sauce, season 
 with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with a 
 sprinkling of chopped chervil; serve with crou- 
 tons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (2)— One pound of mashed 
 potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to 
 one gallon of thin creamy soup made from 
 white stock, in which has been cooked onion, 
 carrot, celery, salt pork and a ham knuckle; 
 season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with 
 a sprinkling of chopped parsley; serve with 
 croutons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (3)— One pound of mashed 
 potatoes rubbed through the tamis (they should 
 have been boiled in water that hams have been 
 boiled in); use this water in conjunction with 
 veal stock, to make a thin creamy soup, then 
 add the puree of potatoes, finish with a liaison 
 of egg yolks and cream, remove from the fire, 
 and pour the soup over a braised Julienne of 
 vegetables. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (4)— Three pounds of peeled 
 potatoes sliced with a Saratoga cutter, one 
 large onion peeled and sliced and one head of 
 celery sliced, the whole put into a sautoir with 
 a cupful of melted butter, a seasoning of salt, 
 pepper and nutmeg, put on the lid, and let 
 simmer with an occasional stir till quite done, 
 then rub the whole through the tamis; add this 
 puree to a gallon of chicken consomme, boil 
 up, skim, then add a pint of good cream; serve 
 with croutons. 
 
 POTATO SOUP (5)— Prepare the puree as given 
 in the preceding (4), add to it the consomme, 
 then finish it with asparagus points, and green 
 stringless beans cut in diamond shapes. 
 
 POTATO SALADS— (See salads). 
 
 POULETTE— The French name for a hen 
 chicken, hence POULETTE SAUCE is made 
 from chicken broth, as follows: Half a cup of 
 melted butter, flour added to form a roux, 
 moistened with one quart of good chicken broth 
 (strained), seasoned with salt, red pepper and 
 nutmeg, brought to the boil and skimmed; then 
 is worked in a liaison of egg yolks and cream, 
 finished with a little lemon juice and chopped 
 parsley. 
 
 PRAIRIE CHICKEN— Is best cooked in three 
 ways, ROASTED, BROILED and in a SAL- 
 MIS. To roast it, first pluck, singe, draw and 
 wipe clean, truss it with slices of bacon tied 
 over the breast, roast it rare; serve with the 
 gravy from the roasting strained into a sauce 
 Bigarade; serve garnished with watercress. . . 
 To broil it, pluck and singe YOUNG birds, 
 split down the back, remove the breast bone, 
 truss out flat, season with olive oil, salt and 
 pepper, place between a wire hinged broiler; 
 broil rare done; serve on toast with maitre 
 d'hotel sauce poured over, garnish with cress. 
 . . . For salmis, simmer the cooked joints in 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 145 
 
 Madeira sauce; serve garnished with mush- 
 rooms, stoned olives and fancy croutons. Or 
 simmer in Bigarade sauce; serve with sliced 
 oranges and fancy croutons. In HUNTER'S 
 STYLE is to roast the birds rare, cut in joints, 
 then simmer in sauce Chasseur; serve garn- 
 ished with fancy croutons. . . Another nice way 
 to serve the bird is to take cold roast birds, 
 joint them, trim the joints to a wing shape, dip 
 in sauce Richelieu, roll in fresh grated bread- 
 crumbs, then dip in beaten egg and again roll 
 in the breadcrumbs, arrange them in a well 
 buttered pan, sprinkle the tops with melted 
 butter, place in oven, and let come to a nice 
 brown color, with the butter frothing on them; 
 serve at once with sauce Richelieu. 
 
 PROVENCALE— Name of a splendid sauce; also 
 applied to the Southern French style of cook- 
 ing. For the sauce (see sauces). 
 
 PUFFS — Forms of hollow pastry (see fritters). 
 
 PUMPKIN — Name of a large vegetable fruit of 
 the melon species, grows on vines, the young 
 shoot leaves of which make a most splendid 
 substitute for spinach in the summer months. 
 
 BAKED PUMPKIN— Slices of peeled pumpkin 
 arranged in buttered pan, seasoned with salt, 
 moistened with roast meat gravy, baked and 
 basted till done, served as a vegetable. . . Also 
 not peeled, but baked plain in slices and served 
 like baked potatoes. . . Also slices of peeled 
 pumpkin, steamed for ten minutes, then placed 
 in buttered pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
 sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, baked til* 
 done and glazy, then served at once. 
 
 PUMPKIN PUREE— Slices of peeled pumpkin, 
 steamed till done, then rubbed through the 
 tamis, seasoned with salt and nutmeg, finished 
 with a little cream and butter; served as a 
 vegetable. 
 
 PUMPKIN PIE— The pumpkin sliced, peeled, 
 steamed and rubbed through the tamis, mixed 
 with a rich custard, flavored with cinnamon 
 and rose water, baked in custard pie pans lined 
 with puff paste. 
 
 PRESERVED PUMPKIN RIND— The thick 
 cut rind of the pumpkin may be preserved in 
 exactly the same way as melon rind(see melon). 
 
 PUREE — Name applied in cookery to vegetables, 
 etc., first cooked then rubbed through a fine 
 sieve; used as a basis to soups, also as a garn- 
 ish to entrees. I will here append the princi- 
 pal purees in general use. 
 
 PUREE OF ARTICHOKES— Peel and slice 
 Jerusalem artichokes, place them in a sautoir 
 with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt and 
 nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, boil 
 till done and the broth reduced, then add some 
 cream, reduce and mash till like mashed pota- 
 toes, add a pat of butter, then rub through the 
 tamis. PUREE OF POTATOES made ex- 
 
 actly the same way, substituting potatoes for 
 artichokes. 
 
 PUREE OF CARROTS— Young carrots peeled 
 and sliced with a Saratoga cutter, place them 
 in a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of salt, 
 nutmeg and sugar, place on the lid and let sim- 
 mer to a light brown color, then add a little 
 good white stock, and simmer down to a glaze, 
 rub through the tamis and use as required. 
 
 PUREE OF CELERY- Celery cut up small, 
 blanched for five minutes, drained, placed in 
 sautoir with butter, season with salt, sugar and 
 nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, and 
 simmer till soft; when soft and the stock re- 
 duced, add a little Bechamel sauce, rub the 
 whole through a tamis and use as required. 
 
 PUREE OF PEAS— Shelled green peas with a 
 bunch each of mint and parsley and a few 
 spring onions boiled tender, drained, pounded, 
 taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with salt and 
 a little thick white sauce, then rub through the 
 tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF CHESTNUTS— Slit large chest- 
 nuts and steam them for twenty minutes, then 
 remove the husks and brown skin, put the 
 cleaned nuts in a sautoir and moisten with a 
 little consomme and simmer till soft and the 
 consomme reduced to glaze, then pound them; 
 season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, add a lit- 
 tle cream sauce, then rub through the tamis 
 for use. 
 
 PUREE OF SPINACH— Wash the spinach free 
 from sand, blanch it, then take up and let it 
 drain well, now chop it very fine, then pound 
 it; place in a sautoir, season with salt, sugar 
 and nutmeg, add a little white sauce, reduce 
 rapidly to preserve its color, add a little butter 
 and a piece of glaze, then rub through the 
 tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF ASPARAGUS— Take the green parts 
 of asparagus, wash free from sand, place in a 
 sautoir with some spring onions and a bunch of 
 parsley, boil in salted water till asparagus is 
 tender, then drain all, return to another sautoir, 
 season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, add a little 
 butter and some white sauce, also some white 
 grated breadcrumbs, reduce rapidly, finish with 
 a little green coloring paste and a small piece 
 of glaze, then rub through the tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF TOMATOES— Into a sautoir put 
 some butter, lean raw ham, minced shallots, a 
 few whole peppers, mace and cloves, two or 
 three bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, 
 fry together to a golden color, then add either 
 fresh or canned tomatoes with a little Veloute 
 sauce, reduce rapidly till thick, add a seasoning 
 of salt and sugar, with a piece of glaze and a 
 pat of butter, then rub through the tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF ONIONS— Sliced onions blanched 
 for five minutes then drained, placed in a sautoir 
 
146 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 with butter, seasoned with salt, sugar and nut- 
 meg, moistened with a very little white stock, 
 simmered till soft and the broth reduced to 
 glaze, then add some thick white sauce, reduce 
 rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF SEAKALE— Seakale cut small and 
 blanched, then drained, placed in a sautoirwith 
 butter and a little white stock, season with salt, 
 sugar and nutmeg. Simmer till soft, then add 
 some thick white sauce, reduce rapidly till 
 thick, then rub through the tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF MUSHROOMS— Canned button 
 mushrooms drained, chopped fine, placed in a 
 sautoir with butter and allowed to fry to a light 
 straw color, then is added the juice of a lemon, 
 and a good cream sauce made with cream and 
 the liquor from the canned mushrooms; sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, reduce 
 rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. 
 
 PUREE OF LIMA BEANS— Fresh green lima 
 beans boiled for a few minutes with some 
 spring onions and a bunch of parsley, also a few 
 sprigs of chives, drained, placed in a sautoir 
 with butter and a small bunch of savory, sea- 
 soned with salt, sugar and a little white sauce, 
 simmered till very tender, then add a piece of 
 glaze and a little green coloring paste, rub 
 through the tamis for use. 
 
 QUAIL — Pluck and singe the quail, split down 
 the back, remove the breast bone, season with 
 salt, brush with butter, broil done to a golden 
 brown; spread the trail on buttered toast, pop 
 it in the oven a few minutes during the broil- 
 ing, place the bird on the toast, brush over with 
 butter, garnish with a little cress and send to 
 table. 
 
 ROAST QUAIL — Pluck and singe the bird, 
 draw it, return the liver, truss; run half a 
 dozen on a long steel skewer; place acrcss a 
 baking pan, letting the ends of the skewer rest 
 on the edge of the pan; sprinkle with salt, 
 dredge with melted butter, roast; serve on toast 
 garnished with a little cress. Sauce Perigueux, 
 or a Financiere garnish mav be served with it, 
 but is far from being essential. 
 
 QUAHAUG— or quahog. One of the clam species, 
 the tender part only should be used; in every 
 way of cooking applicable to oysters and clams' 
 
 QUINCE HONEY— Five large quinces grated, 
 one pint of water, five pounds of granulated 
 sugar, boil the sugar and water, add the grated 
 quinces, boil fifteen minutes, pour into glasses, 
 allow to cool before covering. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY— Wipe, but do not peel the 
 fruit; slice it, and remove all seeds. Put them 
 in a porcelain lined kettie and barely cover 
 with cold water, put en the lid, and boil slowly 
 till very tender, then pour all into a flannel jelly 
 bag and let drain without squeezing. To esch 
 pint of juice allow one pound of sugar, put the 
 
 juice into the kettle, bring to the boil, add the 
 sugar, stir till it is dissolved, then boil rapidly, 
 (skimming the while) till it jellies (about twenty 
 five minutes), then roll the jelly glasses in boil- 
 ing water, and pour in the boiling jelly. Stand 
 aside for twenty-four hours until set firm, then 
 screw on the lids. Keep in a cool dark place 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE— Peel, core and slice 
 the fruit, boil with just enough water to cover 
 them, stirring and mashing them till soft; when 
 reduced to a paste, allow eleven ounces of 
 granulated sugar to each pound of fruit, boil 
 twelve minutes, stirring constantly; remove 
 from fire, allow to cool, then fill into jars for use. 
 
 STEWED RABBIT, GERMAN STYLE— Young 
 rabbits cut in six pieces, the two legs, breasts 
 and shoulders, and the back cut in halves; 
 wash well, drain, then steep them for a few 
 hours in vinegar containing thyme, carrots and 
 onions sliced; when ready, take the oieces, roll 
 them in flour and fry lightly in butter, put 
 them in a sautoir when fried; now fry some 
 pieces of salt pork in the remaining butter, add 
 them to the rabbit, with some flour, shake to- 
 gether, moisten with stock, simmer and skim; 
 then add some button onions, a little thyme 
 and enough of the vinegar they were steeped in 
 to give a sharp flavor, simmer till tender and 
 serve. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF RABBIT— Legs, backs and 
 shoulders of young rabbits, washed and wiped 
 dry, then lightly fry with butter till the flesh 
 is firm; take up into a sautoir, add some 
 flour, moisten with white stock, simmer and 
 skim; when about half done, add some button 
 onions and mushrooms, also a glass of white 
 wine; when about finished, thicken the sauce 
 with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, season 
 v. ith nutmeg, salt, red pepper and the juice of 
 a lemon. 
 
 POTTED RABBIT— Legs, shoulders and backs 
 of young rabbits, remove the bones from each 
 joint, then place the pieces in individual jars 
 (like bean jars) with diced bacon and mush- 
 rooms. Take the bones and head, pound them, 
 boil them with carrot, celery, onions and a lit- 
 tle thyme, thicken it slightly, strain, and cover 
 the meat in the jars with it, put on the lids, 
 and bake slowly till tender; serve in the jars. 
 
 BRAISED RABBIT WITH TOMATO SAUCE 
 — Legs and backs of young rabbits, lard them 
 with seasoned strips of bacon, place in a bras- 
 iere with bacon, onions, carrots and a bunch of 
 thyme, moisten with white stock and a glass of 
 white wine, braise till tender and then remove 
 to another sautoir; strain the braise, boil up, 
 skim, then add it to a thick tomato sauce; 
 serve it over the rabbit, garnished with fancy 
 croutons. 
 
 BROILED SADDLE OF RABBIT— Take the 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 M7 
 
 whole of the back of the rabbit, soak it in warm 
 salted water for an hour, then take it up and 
 wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
 melted butter, dredge with flour, place between 
 a wire hinged broiler and broil it well done 
 over a clear fire, basting with butter during 
 cooking; serve on toast with maitre d'hotel 
 butter in which has been incorporated a little 
 red currant jelly. 
 SAUTE OF RABBIT— Take the legs and sad- 
 dles of the rabbits, soak in warm salted water 
 for an hour, then drain and wipe each piece 
 dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, 
 fry a golden color with butter, make the sauce 
 in the same pan, boil up and skim, put back 
 the rabbit, add some sliced mushrooms, sim- 
 mer till tender, finish with the addition cf a 
 little sherry wine. 
 SMOTHERED RABBIT WITH ONIONS— 
 Take the legs and saddles, blanch and drain 
 them, then arrange them in a sautoir, cover 
 with a light brown sauce and let simmer for 
 half an hour; meanwhile fry lightly plenty of 
 onions (the small button ones), add them to the 
 rabbit, simmer till tender; serve garnished with 
 the onions and a fancy crouton. 
 RABBIT PIE— Take the legs and saddles, cut 
 into inch pieces, make them into a saute; take 
 the hearts, livers and brains, and with the ad- 
 dition of a little grated bacon, breadcrumbs, 
 chopped parsley and a flavoring of thyme make 
 forcemeat balls; lay the rabbit in the pie dish, 
 add the forcemeat balls and some diced bacon, 
 pour over the sauce, cover with a good short 
 crust and bake for one hour. May also be done 
 in individual pie dishes for restaurant and club 
 service, where it is a gocd seller. 
 RABBIT CUTLETS, TOMATO SAUCE— Take 
 the legs, roll them first in a mixture of salt, 
 pepper and poultry seasoning, then in flour, 
 dip in beaten eggs, then grated breadcrumbs, 
 place in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with 
 melted butter, bake slowly for half an hour; 
 serve with tomato sauce. 
 
 EPIGRAMME OF RABBIT— Take the legs and 
 lard them with seasoned strips of bacon, fry 
 one half of them slowly till tender, and braise 
 the other half; when serving, place a line of 
 mashed potatoes down the centre of the dish; 
 on one side place a braised leg dipped in a 
 brown Italian sauce, on the other side place 
 the fried leg dipped in a white Italian sauce, 
 garnish the ends with fancy shaped quenelles 
 made of the hearts, liver and brains. 
 
 DEVILLED RABBIT— Take the legs and sad- 
 dles, boil them for fifteen minutes, let cool, 
 then score them slantwise in three or four 
 places to the bone; make a mixture of melted 
 butter, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, mus- 
 tard and tarragon vinegar, thoroughly rub into 
 
 the cuts with the mixture, then slowly broil 
 them of a light color; serve garnished with 
 croutons and a little of the devil mixture made 
 hot and poured over. 
 BLANQUETTE OF RABBIT— Legs and sad- 
 dles of rabbits blanched, then lightly fried with 
 butter, taken up into a sautoir, covered with 
 Veloute sauce, simmered till tender; served 
 garnished with button mushrooms that have 
 been sauteed with butter. 
 FRIED RABBIT CUTLETS— Legs of young 
 rabbits, bones removed and their place filled 
 with forcemeat, steam them for ten minutes, 
 then take up and spread a little of the force- 
 meat on the outside, then bread them; arrange 
 in a buttered pan, sprinkle with melted butter, 
 brown off in the oven; serve with a sauce made 
 from the inferior parts. 
 STEWED RABBIT WITH VEGETABLES— 
 Prepare the blanquette of rabbit of a preced- 
 ing recipe; serve garnished with balls of carrot 
 and turnip, green peas and small onions. 
 BROILED RABBIT— Young rabbits, the legs 
 and saddle cut in one piece, like frogs are cut, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, broiled well 
 done; served with bacon and maitre d'hotel 
 sauce. 
 RAGOUT OF RABBIT— Legs, saddles and 
 shoulders of rabbits, cut into even sized pieces, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper and sauteed with 
 butter to a golden color, then add some chopped 
 truffle, mushrooms, parsley and shallot, sim- 
 mer all in the butter for ten minutes, then 
 pour off the waste, moisten with some good 
 espagnole, boil up and skim, then add a piece 
 of chicken glace, juice of a lemon, and a grat- 
 ing of nutmeg, let simmer till nearly done, 
 then add some forcemeat balls prepared froru 
 the inferior parts; serve garnished with the 
 quenelles and fancy croutons. 
 RABBIT FILLETS GARNISHED, SAUCK 
 PERIGUEUX — Legs and saddles of young 
 rabbits seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, 
 sauteed with butter to a golden color, taken up 
 and drained, placed into a rich Perigueux 
 sauce, simmered in it till done; served with the 
 sauce poured over and garnished with small 
 quenelles of rabbits made from the inferior 
 parts, alternately with button mushroom sau- 
 tees. 
 SALPICON OF RABBIT— Take the whole rab- 
 bit and roast it of a light color, well basting it 
 to keep it moist; take up and allow to cool, 
 then cut in small dice, the meat only, add also 
 a few mushrooms, and truffles, a little tongue 
 and sweetbread all cut in small dice, moisten 
 the whole with a rich Veloute sauce; serve in 
 fancy croustade cases. 
 MINCED RABBIT ON TOAST— Cold cooked 
 rabbit, the meat cut into very small dice, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 moistened with a brown Italian sauce; served 
 on toast with or without a trimmed poached 
 egg- 
 CURRIED RABBIT WITH RICE— Legs, sad- 
 dles and shoulders of rabbits lightly fried with 
 minced onions in butter, then taken up into a 
 sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and flour, 
 moistened with white stock, simmered till 
 done; served with rice. 
 
 RASPBERRIES— A delicious fruit used chiefly 
 as a table fruit, being picked over, then served 
 with cream. Made into puddings, charlottes, 
 ices, creams, meringues, tarts, jellies, trifles, 
 etc., by the pastry cooks; into syrup for flavor- 
 ing; also used as a drink in summer for cooling 
 the blood known as RASPBERRY VINEGAR; 
 made by taking equal measurement of rasp- 
 berries and vinegar, and steeping them for a 
 week, then straining off the liquor, allowing a 
 pound of granulated sugar to each pint of juice; 
 it is boiled, skimmed and bottled for use. 
 
 RAVIOLES — Are essentially poached rissoles or 
 rissolettes; they are made up from any kind of 
 croquette mixture, rolled up the sizeand shape 
 of an egg, then slightly flattened, and laid on a 
 small square piece of NOODLE or SHORT 
 paste, the four ends brought over the top to a 
 centre and slightly pressed together; they are 
 then poached in white stock for six or seven 
 minutes, drained, placed on the serving dish; 
 an appropriate sauce to the croquette mixture 
 is poured over them, then sprinkled with grated 
 Parmesan cheese. 
 
 RAVIGOTE — Name given to a sauce, made with 
 plenty of melted butter, flour to form a roux, 
 moistened with good white stock, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper and nutmeg, and containing plenty 
 of chopped chives, chervil, tarragon, burnet 
 and parsley. . . Also a cold sauce, which is 
 mayonnaise containing finely minced chives, 
 shallot, tarragon, parsley and chervil. 
 
 REDSNAPPER, BOILED— Clean and scale the 
 fish, place in the fish kettle, cover it with hot 
 water, adding salt and a little vinegar, sim- 
 mer till done (from half to one hour according 
 to size), then raise and drain; serve in portions 
 garnished with Hollandaise potatoes and either 
 caper, matelote, Allemande, Admiral, diplo- 
 mate or Venitienne sauces. 
 
 REDSNAPPER, BAKED— Clean and scale the 
 fish, split it down the back and lift off the two 
 sides free from bones; lay these skin side down 
 in a buttered pan, season with salt and pepper, 
 place in oven till set, then brush liberally with 
 melted butter; bake done and brown, basting 
 well with butter during the cooking; serve in 
 portions with a quarter of a lemon, and a rich 
 tomato sauce made with court-bouillon. 
 
 REDSNAPPER, SAUTE— Prepare the fillets as 
 in the preceding recipe, then cut them in por- 
 
 tion pieces, season with salt and pepper, roll in 
 flour, saute them a delicate brown color with 
 plenty of melted butter; when done, take up 
 and drain, sprinkle the surface with finely 
 minced parsley; serve with Parisienne potatoes 
 and either lobster, Genoise, Aurora, Cardinal, 
 Chambord, or Normande sauces. 
 REDSNAPPER, BROILED— Clean and scale 
 the fish, split down the back and remove the 
 sides free from bones, season with salt and 
 pepper, brush with melted butter, pass it 
 through flour, place between the wire hinged 
 broiler, broil till done, well basting with butter 
 during cooking; serve garnished with chip or 
 Julienne potatoes, and either Maitre D'Hotel, 
 Genoise, Bearnaise, Eschalote, or Nantaise 
 sauces. 
 REDSNAPPER, STUFFED— Clean, trim and 
 scale the fish; cut from the belly part deep 
 enough at sides of bone so as to withdraw it 
 without cutting the skin of the back; stuff with 
 a fish forcemeat, then sew the opening, score 
 the sides, bake with slices of salt pork; serve 
 in portions garnished with Duchesse potatoes 
 and tomato sauce. 
 RHUBARB COMPOTE— Young rhubarb cut in 
 finger lengths, placed in enameled pan covered 
 with cold water, slowly brought to the scalding 
 (not boiling) point, then drain. Measure the 
 scalded water, and add to it a pound of sugar 
 to each pint, boil together till of a thin syrupy 
 nature, then pour over the rhubarb. 
 RHUBARB PIE— Line the sides of pie dish with 
 short paste, cut the rhubarb into half inch 
 thick pieces, sprinkle well with sugar, a little 
 grated nutmeg and lemon rind, just a little 
 water, cover with short paste, egg wash the 
 top, bake and serve. 
 RHUBARB WITH CUSTARD- Cut the rhu- 
 barb into finger lengths, place it in an enam- 
 eled pan, adding sugar and a few strips of 
 candied lemon peel, a little water, place the pan 
 in a slow oven and let simmer till done without 
 breaking the fruit; serve with a spoonful to 
 each portion of thin boiled custard, flavored 
 with vanilla. 
 RHUBARB ] AM— Wash the young rhubarb and 
 cut into pieces about an inch long, do not peel 
 it, weigh, and to each pound allow three-quart- 
 ers of a pound of granulated sugar, boil in a 
 porcelain lined kettle, bringing slowly to the 
 boil, then boil and stir continually for forty-five 
 minutes, fill into Mason jars, screwing the lids 
 on tight. 
 RHUBARB JELLY— Wash the young rhubarb 
 and cut it into inch lengths, put the cut fruit 
 into a stone crock, put on the lid, stand it in 
 the bain marie, and heat slowly till the fruit is 
 soft; now put a small quantity at a time into 
 your jelly bag, and squeeze out all the juice. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 149 
 
 Measure the juice, and to each pint allow one 
 pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice in- 
 to a porcelain lined kettle, and stand over a 
 brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthern dishes 
 and stand in the oven to heat. Boil the juice 
 rapidly and continuously for twenty minutes, 
 then turn in the sugar quickly, stirring all the 
 while till the sugar is dissolved. Dip jelly 
 tumblers into hot water, watch the liquid care- 
 fully, and as soon as it comes to the boil, take 
 it from the fire and fill the glasses. 
 RHUBARB FRITTERS— Take pieces of the 
 rhubarb from the compote of a preceding 
 recipe, dip in frying batter, fry in deep, hot 
 lavrd, drain, dust powdered sugar over; serve 
 with rum sauce. 
 RHUBARB MERINGUE— Wash young rhu- 
 barb, then cut it into inch lengths; fill a pie 
 dish with the rhubarb, sugared alternately with 
 slices of stale sponge cake; bake in a moderate 
 oven about half an hour, then cover with a 
 meringue sprinkled with colored sugar; return 
 to oven and bake till of a light fawn color. 
 
 RICE — To boil it properly so as to have it in 
 grains when cooked instead of pasty: Take a 
 large saucepan containing plenty of boiling 
 water with a little salt, then sprinkle in the 
 rice, let it boil up, then shift it to a cooler part 
 of the range where it will just simmer, do not 
 stir it, but let it swell itself tender, then turn it 
 into a colander, place the colander in the 
 saucepan, take it to the sink and thoroughly 
 wash it clear with running cold water, then 
 allow to drain dry, then put the drained rice 
 into a receptacle of the bain marie, put on the 
 cover, and let the boiling water surrounding it 
 reheat the rice. . . Rice cooked as above is 
 good to serve with curries, compotes, as a 
 breakfast cereal with cream and sugar, etc. . . 
 Also mixed with a little butter, plenty of 
 tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese it forms 
 Rissoto . . . added to consommes it does not 
 cloud the soup . . . mixed with wheat flour, 
 baking powder, sugar and milk for making rice 
 muffins. 
 
 RICE CROQUETTES— Well washed rice boiled 
 till soft in milk with a seasoning of sugar, a 
 stick of cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon; 
 when done remove the lemon and spice, add a 
 piece of butter, then work in a liaison of egg 
 yolks; turn out into a buttered pan, allow to 
 become cold, then form into cakes with a de- 
 pressed centre, bread and fry them, drain, 
 sprinkle with powdered sugar; when sending to 
 table fill the depression with preserve, and 
 pour a vanilla or wine sauce around the base. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF RICE— Well washed rice 
 boiled till soft in white stock; when done, 
 season with salt, butter and nutmeg, then whip 
 it creamy, adding some Parmesan cheese. Now 
 
 turn it out into a buttered pan, smooth it well, 
 place a sheet of buttered paper over it, on that 
 a board with a weight; when thoroughly cold, 
 stamp out with a biscuit cutter, double bread, 
 then fry them, drain, scoop out the centres and 
 use the shell for the reception of salpicons, 
 roacedoines of fruit or vegetables, etc. 
 
 RICHILIEU — Name of a garnish (see garnishes). 
 
 RISSOLES — Another form of savory croquette; 
 but instead of being breaded and fried, the 
 croquette mixture is divided into even sized 
 pieces, and laid on a sheet of pie paste, cov- 
 ered with another sheet(thin),then stamped out 
 with a fluted biscuit cutter, then fried like cro- 
 quettes in deep hot lard. 
 
 RISSOLETTES — Same as rissoles, but made 
 much smaller and used for garnishing. 
 
 ROE — The eggs of fish, those chiefly used being 
 taken from the shad, codfish, carp and mullet. 
 Recipes will be found under their respective 
 headings. 
 
 ROLY POLY — Name applied to puddings made 
 from a sweet biscuit dough, rolled out thin, 
 then spread with chopped fruit, currants, sul- 
 tanas, etc., then rolled up, tied in a cloth, 
 plunged into boiling water, and boiled; or else 
 placed in a cake or bread tin and steamed till 
 done; served in slices with sauce appropriate. 
 
 ROMAN PUNCH— To lemon water ice when 
 nearly frozen is added Jamaica rum, brandy, 
 and sherry wine in equal parts, and enough 
 meringue to whiten it, then finish the freezing; 
 served in punch glasses with the dinner. 
 
 ROQUEFORT — Name of a French cheese (see 
 cheese). 
 
 ROULADE — Name given to savory rolls of steak. 
 Take thin steaks, spread with a forcemeat, roll 
 up, tie the ends with twine, arrange them in a 
 sautoir with some bacon fat, brown them, then 
 add a little flour, moisten with stock, then let 
 them simmer in the gravy till tender, take up, 
 serve with the twine removed, and garnished 
 with vegetables, mushrooms, etc. 
 
 ROUX — The name given to an equal mixture of 
 butter and flour, used to thicken sauces and 
 soups. Take the sautoir, place in the butter; 
 when melted, add the flour and stir till thor- 
 oughly smooth and heated, then moisten with 
 the stock, milk, etc. . . If for a brown sauce or 
 soup, allow the roux to brown before moistening. 
 
 ROYAL CUSTARDS— Name applied to a com- 
 bination of eggs and a liquid either plain or in 
 conjunction with a solid; used to decorate 
 soups, and also with garnishes; also for garn- 
 ishing galantines, etc. Yolks and whites of 
 eggs separated, stirred to amalgamate (must 
 not be beaten light) with a little milk or stock, 
 then poured into a buttered basin or tin, cov- 
 ered with a sheet of oiled paper, and placed in 
 
150 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 the steamer where they must be gradually decorated with capers; garnished with aspara- 
 steamed till set; they are then removed and gus points dipped in French dressing. 
 allowed to become cold; they may then be cut BEAN SALAD— Take the French beans, bought 
 
 in slices and afterwards into all sorts of fancy 
 shapes for the purpose required. Into the eggs 
 may also be mixed a rnacecoine of vegetables, 
 chopped truffles, chopped mushrooms, force- 
 meat, lobster coral, green peas, chopped chervil, 
 parsley, chives, tarragon, etc.; and when re- 
 quired for garnishing whole pieces they, after 
 
 in cans and called "Haricots Verts". Wash 
 and drain them, then moisten with French 
 dressing and send to table in one of the num- 
 erous shaped croustade cases, placed on a leaf 
 of lettuce. . . (?.) Fresh green lima beans boiled 
 tender, drained, mixed with cream dressing; 
 served garnished with cress. 
 
 being mixed with whatever solid is used, should BEETROOT AND POTATO SALAD— Cut out 
 
 of cold boiled beetroots small balls; the same 
 size balls also to be cut out of raw peeled pota- 
 toes; then steamed till done; when cooled, place 
 the potatoes in a Ravigote sauce, the beet balls 
 in tarragon vinegar; dish them up alternately. 
 BEET AND EGG SALAD— Large beetroots 
 boiled and cooled, then with the largest sized 
 column cutter stamp out cork like pieces; these 
 slice, also do the same with steamed whites and 
 yolks of eggs. Place some grated horseradish 
 down the centre of the dish, on it place alter- 
 nately a small white pickled onion and a caper; 
 surround the horseradish with the yellow 
 slices, and those with the alternate slices of beet 
 and white egg; serve with cream dressing aside. 
 CABBAGE SALAD — Cut some bacon into dice, 
 fry; when done, add a cup of vinegar, a cup of 
 water, season with salt and pepper, bring all 
 to the boil, pour over very finely shred cab- 
 bage, set away to get cold, then serve ... (2) 
 Finely shred white cabbage, seasoned with 
 salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and a little sugar . . . 
 (3 1 Take a firm green and a firm red cabbage, 
 quarter them, soak in salted water for an hour, 
 then steam them till tender, take out and cool; 
 when cold, shred them very finely, arrange 
 them on the -serving dish alternately, two rows 
 of each, placing between each centre row some 
 salad cream dressing containing chopped cher- 
 vil and shallots. 
 CAULIFLOWER SALAD— (1) Cooked cauli- 
 flower in flowerets in centre of dish, masked 
 with mayonnaise, garnished with a macedoine 
 of cooked vegetables dressed with French 
 dressing . . . (z) Flowerets of cooked cauli- 
 flower in centre of dish masked with a sauce 
 Remculade; garnished with fancy cut strips of 
 cooked and piclird beetroot. 
 CELERY SALAD -(1) Cut the white celery in 
 two inch lengths like matches or macaroni; 
 serve dressed with mayonnaise ... (2) White 
 celery cut in dice, mixed with Livournaise 
 sauce; served garnished with slices of stuffed 
 olives. 
 
 be filled into small timbale molds so that they 
 
 can be turned out and used whole. 
 RYE — Name of a cereal, used in distilling for 
 
 whisky, ground into flour for making rye bread, 
 
 muffins, batter cakes, mush, etc. 
 SALADS. 
 ALLIGATOR PEAR— It is either eaten raw with 
 
 salt and pepper; or sliced and dressed with 
 
 French dressing; served on a bed of shredded 
 
 endive. 
 
 ANCHOVY SALAD— (1) Shredded fillets of 
 salted anchovies, garnished with small white 
 pickled onions, capers, and sliced hard boiled 
 eggs; sprinkle a little tarragon vinegar over the 
 anchovies . . .(2) Shredded lettuce andshredded 
 anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed to- 
 gether dry; then moistened with equal quanti- 
 ties of olive oil and caper vinegar thoroughly 
 beaten together. 
 
 ARTICHOKE SALAD- (1) Artichoke bottoms 
 and medium sized onions both cooked and 
 cooled, then sliced and dished alternately; 
 garnished with small balls of cooked beetroot 
 and carrots; served sprinkled with either 
 French or a cream dressing ... (2) Cooked arti- 
 choke bottoms, skinned raw tomatoes; slice 
 both and arrange alternately on the serving 
 dish, sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, then 
 with a French dressing ... (3) Hearts of lettuce 
 finely shred; artichoke bottoms cooked and 
 cooled, then shred; mixed, then moistened with 
 French dressing and served. 
 
 ASPARAGUS SALAD— (1) Two inch lengths of 
 cooked asparagus with the head; served on let- 
 tuce leaves, the points piped with cream dress- 
 ing or mayonnaise . . . ^2) Cooked asparagus 
 heads; raw, skinned, sliced tomatces. Place 
 the asparagus in the centre of the dish, garnish 
 with the tomatoes; serve with mayonnaise . . . 
 (3) Flowerets of cooked cauliflower in centre of 
 dish masked with cream dressing; garnished 
 with asparagus points moistened with French 
 dressing, decorate with capers ... (4) Flakes of 
 
 cooked salmon dipped in a thin Ravigote sauce, 
 
 placed overlapping each other down centre of CHICORY SALAD— Sb red chicory (endive), twr 
 
 the dish; garnished with asparagus points, the parts, shred celery, one part, mixed, dressed 
 
 tips of which should be piped with mayonnaise. and served with French dressing. 
 
 ... (5) Canned salmon drained; a spoonful in CODFISH SALAD — Salt cod well soaked and 
 
 centre of dish masked with a mayonnaise and boiled in two separate waters. cojW, ^ake* 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 I5i 
 
 taken free from bones; cold boiled potatoes 
 sliced and mixed with the cod; seasoned with 
 cream dressing, the salad then placed down the 
 centre of dish; garnish the sides with finely 
 shred lettuce seasoned with French dressing, 
 the top of the salad to be garnished with 
 shredded and filleted salted anchovies. 
 CHICKEN SALAD— (1) Make round chicken 
 croquettes of white chicken, tongue, mush- 
 rooms and truffles; bread, fry, let become cold, 
 cut in halves and set around a bed of fine shred 
 iettuce and endive ... (2) Equal parts of 
 chicken and white celery cut in dice, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, dressed with 
 tliced eggs and mayonnaise ... (3) Take two 
 parts of mayonnaise and one part of cold limpid 
 aspic jelly and beat them together; decorate 
 and line individual patty pans with the beaten 
 mixture, allow them to set, then fill up with 
 slices of chicken dressed with Remoulade 
 sauce, a few capers and slices of stoned olives, 
 cover with more of the beaten mixture, let set 
 till firm, turn out on to a bed of shredded let- 
 tuce, garnish with shredded anchovies and 
 shredded gherkins. 
 CHICKEN, MAYONNAISE OF — Cold roast 
 chickens, cut into joints, marinaded in a mix- 
 ture of olive oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and 
 pepper; taken up, drained, skinned, dipped in 
 a mayonnaise; when well coated, lain on a bed 
 of shredded lettuce, garnish with quartered 
 eggs, balls of pickled beetroot and stoned, 
 stuffed olives. . . (2) Boned and roasted chicken, 
 pressed, sliced, coated with mayonnaise; served 
 garnished with green peas and asparagus 
 points sprinkled with French dressing, and 
 cubes of savory chicken aspic. 
 CRAB SALAD— Fresh crab meat, to which is 
 added one-fourth of its bulk in minced cold 
 boiled cabbage; season with dry mustard, a 
 dash of Worcestershire sauce and cream salad 
 dressing. Fill the crab shells with the salad, 
 place the shell on a curved lettuce leaf; decor- 
 ate the salad in the shell with two rows of egg, 
 chopped whites and yolks alternately. . . (2) 
 Fresh crab meat cut in small dice, dressed with 
 tarragon vinegar, salt, olive oil and cayenne 
 pepper; served within a border of shredded 
 lettuce; garnish with slices of stuffed olives and 
 hard boiled eggs. . . (3) Make from fresh crab 
 meat, some forcemeat balls the size of walnuts; 
 when poached and cooled, coat them with a 
 Remoulade sauce; serve them within a border 
 of cold slaw, garnish with quartered hard boiled 
 eggs and fancy strips of pickled beetroot. 
 
 CUCUMBER SALAD— Cucumbers peeled, sliced 
 thin, steeped in salted ice water for two or 
 three hours, taken up into a salad basket and 
 swung dry; then place in a bowl and anoint 
 them with French dressing containing chopped 
 
 tarragon and parsley. . . (2) Peeled cucumbers 
 thinly sliced and steeped in salted ice water for 
 an hour, then taken up into a salad basket and 
 swung dry; then anoint them with a spray of 
 tarragon vinegar, place in centre of dish, and 
 garnish them with a few spring onions sliced 
 and moistened with cream salad dressing. . . (3) 
 Peeled cucumbers thinly sliced, steeped in 
 salted ice water for an hour, taken up into a 
 salad basket and swung dry; then anoint 
 them with salt, pepper and a spray of caper 
 vinegar; dish them up alternately with slices 01 
 hard boiled eggs and pickled beetroot. 
 
 DANDELION SALAD— Fresh gathered young 
 dandelion leaves (gathered before the sun 
 shines on them in the morning too strongly), 
 wiped clean WITHOUT BEING WASHED, 
 seasoned with French dressing; served gar- 
 nished with fancy slices of pickled beetroot. 
 
 CRESS SALAD — Arrange well washed, picked 
 over and drained watercress on the serving 
 dish, garnish with sliced eggs and filleted 
 anchovies. 
 
 EGG SALAD — Hard boiled eggs, the yolks 
 rubbed through a sieve, mixed with their equal 
 weight of grated Parmesan cheese, seasoned 
 with chopped chervil, salt, pepper and enough 
 melted butter to moisten; fill the whites with 
 the mixture, and lay them on a bed of shredded 
 lettuce; garnish with peeled and sliced toma- 
 toes, piped with Remoulade sauce. 
 
 EEL SALAD — Raw eels skinned and marinaded, 
 then boiled and the bone removed; when cold, 
 masked with mayonnaise, arranged in centre 
 of dish garnished with sliced eggs and tufts of 
 parsley. 
 
 EGG PLANT SALAD— Cold well boiled egg 
 plant, cut in small dice and well seasoned with 
 lemon juice and olive oil; served on a curled 
 leaf of lettuce. 
 
 ENDIVE SALAD— Shred the leaves and cores of 
 well washed endive, and serve it with French 
 dressing made with tarragon vinegar, contain- 
 ing a suspicion of garlic. 
 
 FRENCH SALAD-Cold roast meat (veal for 
 preference), cut in small dice, mixed with 
 shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned with 
 French dressing, garnished with chopped 
 whites of hard boiled egg. 
 
 GARDENER'S SALAD— Fine strips of vege- 
 tables of various colors cooked and cooled, with 
 green peas and cut stringless beans, all mixed 
 together and dressed with salt, pepper, olive 
 oil and vinegar, or with a thin mayonnaise. 
 
 GERMAN SALAD— Pickled red cabbage, 
 blanched sauerkraut, small pickled onions, 
 grated horseradish, chopped shallots, gherkins, 
 dill pickles and capers with sliced cold frank- 
 furters, all mixed together, seasoned with 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
 salad oil, pepper and tarragon 
 
 152 
 
 Rhine wine, 
 vinegar. 
 
 GERMAN POTATO SALAD— Sliced cold boiled 
 potatoes, minced parsley, fried diced bacon 
 (with its fat thrown over the potatoes), pepper, 
 salt, the whole well mixed with cream salad 
 dressing. 
 
 GAME SALAD — Any kind of cold roast game 
 skinned and cut into dice, mixed with shredded 
 lettuce, shredded cooked carrots and a few raw 
 minced shallots, season the whole with Tartare 
 sauce; serve garnished with slices of pickled 
 beetrcot, chopped eggs and small balls of but- 
 ter and pounded watercress. . . (2) Cold roast 
 game skinned and sliced, moistened with French 
 dressing and allowed to marinade for three 
 hours, arrange then on the serving platter, 
 garnished with shredded lettuce, the whole 
 then sprinkled over with chopped whites of egg 
 and the yolks that have been rubbed through a 
 sieve. 
 
 HERRING SALAD— Shredded boneless salted 
 herrings and sardelles, mixed with thin sliced 
 cold boiled potatoes, sliced dill pickles and 
 gherkins, capers, chopped chives and shredded 
 lettuce; placed on the serving platter and 
 masked with a thin mayonnaise; garnish with 
 filleted anchovies and slices or strips of pickled 
 bestroot. . . (2) Blanched smoked herring, 
 skinned, split, boned, cut up small, mixed with 
 chopped eggs, minced onion, thin sliced cold 
 boiled potatoes and chopped parsley, seasoned 
 with French dressing, garnished with pickled 
 beetrcot and capers. 
 
 ITALIAN SALAD— Diced fowl mixed in cream 
 salad dressing; served within a border of picked 
 watercress and hearts of lettuce; garnish with 
 slices of eggs, yolks removed, its place filled 
 with a slice of beetroot. 
 
 ITALIAN SALAD — Cooked green peas two- 
 fifths, small diced cooked carrot one-fifth, 
 diced cooked white turnip one- fifth, small cut 
 cooked stringless beans one-fifth, all mixed to- 
 gether. Then into a French dressing mix some 
 chopped chervil, tarragon and chives; moisten 
 the vegetables with this mixture, and serve 
 garnished with slices of cold boiled potatoes 
 and pickled beetroot. 
 
 KALE SALAD — The small inside leaves of kale 
 four-fifths, picked and washed watercress one- 
 fifth, mixed and served with French dressing. 
 
 LETTUCE SALAD— Broad shred lettuce leaves, 
 sprinkled with salt and pepper, then sprayed with 
 mixed olive oil and tarragon vinegar. . . (2) Well 
 washed and drained lettuce leaves finely shred 
 aDd served with French dressing. . . (3) Broad 
 shred lettuce leaves and finely shred spring 
 onions, sprinkled with salt and pepper, then 
 sprayed with mixed olive oil and tarragon vin- 
 egar. . . (4) Finely shred lettuce seasoned with 
 
 French dressing and garnished with peeled d 
 sliced tomatoes, piped with a Remoulade sauce. 
 ... (5) Shred lettuce tossed with Remoulade 
 sauce and minced capers; served garnished with 
 peeled and sliced tomatoes sprayed with French 
 dressing. 
 
 LIMA BEAN SALAD— Fresh green lima beans 
 boiled, drained, cooled, moistened with a cream 
 salad dressing; served garnished with water- 
 cress sprayed with caper vinegar. 
 
 LOBSTER SALAD— Two parts of diced lobster 
 meat to one part of fine cut celery, seasoned 
 with salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, placed on 
 platter and masked with mayonnaise; garnished 
 with slices of hard boiled eggs and shredded 
 lettuce. . . (2) Equal parts of diced lobster 
 meat and diced cold boiled potatoes, mixed 
 with cream salad dressing; served with cubes 
 of steamed whites and yolks of eggs alternately 
 as a garnish. . . (3) Slices of lobster meat 
 dipped in Montpelier butter arranged down the 
 centre of platter; served garnished with alter- 
 nate tufts of watercress; sliced egg with yolk re- 
 moved and its place filled with lobster coral; 
 sliced cucumber, and small rings of onion, the 
 interior of the ring filled with caviare. . . (4) 
 Shredded lettuce and lobster meat, seasoned 
 with oil, salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar, 
 placed on platter and masked with mayonnaise, 
 decorated with capers, sliced stuffed olives, 
 lobster coral, quartered eggs, and watercress 
 (also the small claws). 
 
 MACEDOINE SALAD— Out of slices of cooked 
 c«rrot, white and yellow turnip, and bottoms 
 of artichokes, stamp fancy shapes, add to them 
 cooked green peas and asparagus tips, also 
 finely cut stringless beans, mix all together; 
 serve on lettuce leaves, with French dressing 
 and a few capers. 
 
 OYSTER SALAD— Oysters scalded and washed, 
 cooled, served on lettuce leaf with Tartar sauce. 
 ... (2) Equal quantities of white celery and 
 cabbage minced together and blanched, then 
 cooled; oysters scalded with their own liquor, to 
 which is added a little vinegar and salt, then 
 drained and cooled; season the celery and cab- 
 bage with a little oil and white vinegar, place 
 it in centre of dish, dip the oysters in mayon- 
 naise and surround the centre. 
 
 ONION SALAD— Take either the Bermuda or 
 Spanish onion, peel them, slice in rings one- 
 quarter inch thick, steam them till half done, 
 then let them become very cold; serve on let- 
 tuce leaves, with Ravigote sauce. 
 
 OYSTER PLANT SALAD— Cold boiled oyster 
 plant, cut in finger lengths; when very cold, 
 season them with salt and pepper, dip the ends 
 in Ravigote sauce, arrange on fancy strips of 
 cooled toast (like asparagus) and garnish with 
 aspic jelly. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 153 
 
 OKRA SALAD— Okras blanched, drained and 
 quartered; served on a bed of shredded endive; 
 pour over French dressing containing chopped 
 chives and chervil. 
 PARTRIDGE SALAD— Cold trimmed joints of 
 roast partridge, marinaded in tarragon vinegar 
 and olive oil. (One in two add salt, pepper, 
 minced chives and chervil); serve on a bed of 
 shredded lettuce, pour the marinade over, 
 garnish with sliced eggs, capers and gherkins. 
 ... (2) Cold roast partridge cut in dice, marin- 
 aded for two hours in French dressing, drain 
 it, then mix the partridge with an equal 
 amount of diced white celery; place the salad 
 on a leaf of lettuce, mask with a mayonnaise, 
 garnish with minced pickle and chopped capers. 
 POTATO SALAD— Cold boiled potatoes sliced, 
 little minced onion and chopped parsley, mixed 
 and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vine- 
 gar. . . (2) Slices of cold boiled potatoes, shred- 
 ded salt anchovies, chopped parsley, pepper, 
 salt, French mustard, tarragon vinegar and 
 cream salad dressing, all mixed together and 
 served on lettuce. . . (3) Sliced thin cold boiled 
 potatoes, thoroughly mixed with French dress- 
 ing, adding a little more vinegar. . . (4) Sliced 
 cold boiled potatoes, sliced onion, chopped 
 parsley, fried bacon in dice with its fat, salt, 
 pepper and cream salad dressing, all mixed 
 together and served on lettuce. . . (5) Balls of 
 potatoes scooped from peeled raw ones, steamed 
 till done, then cooled, moistened with Hollan- 
 daise sauce; served on lettuce and sprinkled 
 with finely chopped chives and chervil. 
 
 ROMAINE SALAD— Broad shredded Romaine 
 lettuce leaves, sprinkled with salt, pepper, oil 
 and tarragon vinegar. 
 
 RUSSIAN SALAD— Cooked salad of -carrots, 
 parsnips and beetroots cut in shapes; pieces of 
 fowl and shredded anchovies, mixed together and 
 seasoned with combined oil, vinegar and French 
 mustard; served garnished with olives and 
 caviar. , . (2) Cooked ham, smoked tongue, roast 
 beef, chicken and mutton cut in dice, shredded 
 salt anchovies; season and mix with Tartar 
 sauce;serve within a border of shredded lettuce. 
 
 RADISH SALAD— Take round red and white 
 radishes, thoroughly clean them, then cut in 
 halves, arrange the halves alternately, skin 
 side up, on a bed of shredded lettuce, sprinkle 
 with French dressing and garnish with stuffed 
 olives. 
 
 SARDINE SALAD— Hard boiled eggs and boiled 
 onions in slices, sardines in fillets, dished up in 
 alternate layers, sprinkled with French dress- 
 ing containing chopped parsley, chives and 
 chervil. 
 
 SALMON SALAD — Equal quantities of cooked 
 beet and raw celery minced, then mixed to- 
 gether; boiled salmon in flakes added; season 
 
 with salt and pepper to taste, then moisten with 
 one part of vinegar to three parts of olive oil; 
 serve on a bed of shredded lettuce and garnish 
 with eggs. 
 
 SALSIFY SALAD— Cold boiled salsify, mixed 
 with French dressing, in centre of dish, garn- 
 ished with small balls of steamed potatoes 
 moistened with cream dressing. 
 
 SCOTCH SALAD — Two parts of diced celery to 
 one part of flakes of cooked salmon; season with 
 oil, salt and vinegar; serve on lettuce, mask 
 with mayonnaise, garnish with sliced egg and 
 stuffed olives. 
 
 SHRIMP SALAD — Shrimps marinaded in oil 
 and vinegar, drained, mixed with shredded 
 celery in inch lengths, dressed with mayon- 
 naise, garnished with stoned olives, capers, 
 hard boiled eggs and coiled shrimps. 
 
 SPANISH SALAD— Peeled tomatoes sliced and 
 arranged on dish with pickled small white 
 onions, mayonnaise in centre. . . (2) Shredded 
 endive garnished with quartered peeled toma- 
 toes and quartered eggs, yolk removed and its 
 place filled with shrimp paste. The endive to 
 be sprinkled with minced sweet peppers and 
 shallots, oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. 
 
 SOUTHERN SALAD— Take tender okras, trim 
 the ends, boil till tender, drain, let become 
 very cold. Dip some sweet peppers in hot fat 
 and take off the skins, then finely shred them 
 like matches, mix them with the okras and 
 serve with mayonnaise. . . (2) Boil till done 
 some green peppers, let them become very cold, 
 then shred them like matches and serve with 
 French dressing. 
 
 SWEDISH SALAD— Cut into dice an equal 
 quantity of cold meat, boiled potatoes, green 
 apples, pickled herring and salted anchovies, 
 mix into it some chopped gherkins, capers and 
 hard boiled eggs, mix all; serve on lettuce with 
 French dressing and garnish with stoned olives. 
 
 SWEETBREAD SALAD-Slices of cooked sweet- 
 bread dipped in flour, fried with butter, then 
 cooled and trimmed; shredded lettuce in centre 
 of dish with salad cream dressing; sweetbreads 
 masked with mayonnaise, arranged around the 
 lettuce; garnish with slices of radishes and 
 beetroot. 
 
 TARTARE SALAD— Shredded lettuce, pickled 
 cucumbers, pickled onions and pickled her- 
 ring; slice the cucumbers and cut the herring 
 in dice, mix together, season with a little oil 
 and vinegar, and finish with Tartare sauce; 
 serve on lettuce. 
 
 TOMATO SALAD— Sliced peeled tomatoes mar- 
 inaded in French dressing, drained, sprinkled 
 with salt and pepper. . . (2) Sliced peeled to- 
 matoes sprinkled with Parmesan cheese mois~ 
 tened with Rhine wine and olive oil. 
 
154 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 VEAL SALAD — Equal quantities of cooked veal 
 and boiled potatoes cut in dice with some white 
 celery; seasoned with salt, pepper and cream 
 salad dressing; served on lettuce, garnished 
 with eggs. 
 WATERCRESS SALAD— Crisp, cleaned and 
 picked watercress, seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and vinegar. 
 COMBINATION SALADS— Slices of cold boiled 
 potatoes, Brussels sprouts boiled and cooled, 
 flowerets of boiled cauliflower, and shredded 
 celerj, arranged neatly in salad bowl with 
 French dressing. . . (2) Shred lettuce, endive, 
 sliced tomatoes, spring onions and radishes, 
 tossed lightly together with French dressing. . . 
 (3) Slices of potatoes even in size, slices of 
 truffles and minced shallots, dressed with oil 
 and caper vinegar. . . (4) Yolks of eggs rubbed 
 through a sieve, chopped egg whites, gherkins, 
 chervil and soy, mixed with a little dressing 
 composed of French mustard, essence of an- 
 chovies, pepper and white wine vinegar, garn- 
 ished with sliced potatoes, beetroot and celery. 
 FRENCH DRESSING— Four parts of olive oil 
 to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a lit- 
 tle onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt and 
 pepper. 
 CREAM DRESSING— One cup each of white 
 vinegar and melted butter, one dessert spoon of 
 dry mustard, one teaspoon of paprika, eight 
 yolks of eggs, one quart of whipping cream. 
 Boil the vinegar, butter and seasonings to- 
 gether; pour it then to the beaten yolks, stir 
 over the range till like custard, remove and 
 cool, then whip the cream and beat it into the 
 dressing. 
 HOLLANDAISE DRESSING— One pint of 
 white vinegar, one quart of milk, one cup of oil 
 or melted butter, one basting spoonful of dry 
 mustard, one teaspoon of red pepper, one 
 tablespoonful of paprika, twelve eggs, salt to 
 taste. Boil the vinegar with the seasonings; 
 meanwhile separate the yolks and whites, and 
 beat them separately; bring the milk to the boil 
 and pour it to the yolks, then add the boiling 
 vinegar, stir on the range till it just thickens 
 like custard (do not let it boil or it will curdle). 
 When of the custard consistency, remove from 
 the fire and beat in the whipped whites with 
 the melted butter or oil, then put away to cool 
 for use. 
 SALAMANDER— Name given to a heated iron 
 plate used for quickly browning the gratinated 
 surface of certain dishes of escalloped foods, 
 etc. In some kitchens the dish is placed on the 
 ashes under the hot bars of the grate; in others 
 a small shovel is made hot. Where there is a 
 gas oven with a top cooking surface the dish 
 may be placed under the grill. All tend to the 
 same purpose, that of quickly obtaining a 
 
 brown surface without further cooking the in' 
 
 terior. 
 
 SALMI— SALMIS— These two words each sig- 
 nify a form of stew, and seldom are they prop- 
 erly used. It is always applied to game, 
 SALMIS is used when the stew is made from 
 cold cooked game that has been left over from 
 a previous meal. SALMI is a stew made from 
 fresh cooked game specially roasted at the time 
 required to make the stew for thecoming meal. 
 
 SALLY LUNN— Name applied to a light sweet 
 yeast raised tea cake; served split and buttered, 
 fresh and hot. 
 
 SALMON, BOILED— If small, boil whole; if 
 large cut in two or three. Put to boil in boil- 
 ing salted water, laying the fish on a drainer, 
 boil a minute, raise the drainer, let the water 
 boil very rapidly, then plunge fish and drainer 
 in again, then repeat the operation and allow 
 to boil till done. By this method the albumen 
 of the fish coagulates and the flesh eats much 
 better Serve with plain melted butter, Hol- 
 landaise, Allemande, caper, Bechamel, fennel, 
 cream or butter parsley sauce. 
 
 SALMON, BAKED— The fish should be small. 
 Scale, trim, wash and dry it, turn the thin flap 
 of the belly inwards and tie it with thin twine; 
 cover the fish then with a fish forcemeat; bake 
 and baste till done; serve in portions with 
 Genoise or Ferigueux sauces. 
 
 SALMON, BROILED— Scale, trim, wash and 
 dry the fish, then cut in equally thick slices, 
 season with cayenne pepper and salt, dip in 
 olive oil, roll up in oiled paper, tuck in the ends 
 and pin with a toothpick, plunge into hot fat 
 and cook for 7 to 10 minutes according to the 
 thickness, then raise the frying basket, let it 
 drain for a minute; then put the cutlet, still in 
 the paper, on the broiler, broil till nicely 
 marked, remove the paper, place on dish; serve 
 with Tartar, Genevoise, fine-herbs or maitre 
 d'hotel sauces or with anchovy or Montpelier 
 butter. 
 
 SALMON STEAKS OR CUTLETS— Boil them 
 in boiling seasoned white fish stock till done 
 and serve with lobster, oyster, cucumber or 
 supreme sauces. Saute them with clear butter 
 a delicate brown and serve with Aurora, Milan- 
 aise, Veloute, gherkin, piquante, or ravigote 
 sauces. 
 
 SALMON (COLD, BOILED)— May be served 
 with sliced cucumbers, Tartar, ravigote or 
 mayonnaise sauces. 
 
 SALMON CROQUETTES— Take flakes of cold 
 boiled salmon and shred them, season with red 
 pepper and salt, also a dash each of anchovy 
 and Harvey sauces. Then mix the fish wi»h 
 one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed potatoes; 
 turn on to a dish, smooth it over, allow to be- 
 come cold, then shape pieces of the raixvure 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 155 
 
 into small flat cutlets like a cutlet from the 
 tail of the fish; bread and fry them and serve 
 with cream or fennel sauces, garnish with Hol- 
 landaise potatoes. 
 
 SALMON, SMOKED— May be boiled and served 
 with cream sauce. . . Broiled and served with 
 devil or drawn butter sauce. . . Fried in oil and 
 served with lemon sauce. . . Toasted and served 
 with maitre d'hotel sauce. 
 
 SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF— Take the center 
 cut of a salmon, curl the flaps under and tie with 
 twine, boil in seasoned fish stock till done, re- 
 move and skin, then allow to become cold 
 (retaining its shape), place on dish, mask well 
 with mayonnaise, decorate the mayonnaise with 
 lobster coral, garnish with watercress; serve. 
 
 SALSIFY — For recipes, see "Oyster plant". 
 
 SAUERKRAUT— See "cabbage". 
 
 SAUCES AND THEIR USES. 
 
 ADMIRAL SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce 
 made with white seasoned fish stock, work 
 some pounded anchovies, minced fried shal- 
 lots, chopped capers, and a little grated lemon 
 rind. . . Serve with bluefish saute . . . boiled 
 pickerel . . . pike or muskallonge . . . boiled 
 sheephead . . . boiled weakfish . . . Mackinaw 
 trout. 
 
 ALBERT SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce 
 made from veal or other white stock, work some 
 grated horseradish, minced fried shallots, 
 chopped parsley, tarragon vinegar; boil up 
 again, then strain, then finish with a liaison of 
 egg yolks, a pinch of mustard and chopped 
 parsley. Serve with braised fillet of beef, 
 any braised beef. . . It is also used to poach 
 eggs in when an addition of curry is given to it 
 for "Eggs Indienne style". See eggs. 
 
 ALLEMANDE SAUCE— Into a good Veloute 
 sauce, work some lemon juice, a little mush- 
 room catsup, cayenne, butter, yolks of eggs, a 
 grating of nutmeg, then strain. It should be 
 ye!low, and smooth as velvet. Serve with 
 boiled pig's feet . . . braised eels . . . fried carp 
 . . . paupiettes of sole . . . boiled codfish . . 
 fried haddock . . . fried fillets of mackerel . . 
 baked perch . . . baked shad . . . baked trout 
 . . . boiled chicken . . . boiled pheasant . . . fried 
 pike. It is also the foundation of many other 
 sauces, fish especially. 
 
 ALMOND SAUCE — A sweet custard sauce con- 
 taining pounded and shredded almonds, also a 
 dash of ratafia. Served with fig fritters . . . 
 almond custard fritters, etc. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE— Anchovy butter worked in- 
 to a good Espagnole sauce. Used for broiled 
 steaks, baked fish, and as a filler for steak and 
 oyster pie. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE— Into a well made butter 
 sauce work in the juice of a lemon, a dash of 
 
 cayenne pepper, some pounded anchovies or 
 anchovy essence. Used for boiled fish such as: 
 boiled bass, cod, plaice, haddock, halibut, her- 
 ring, kingfish, pike, rockfish, weakfish, and shad 
 roe. 
 
 ANDALUSIAN SAUCE— Into a rich tomato 
 sauce, work some grated lean cooked ham, and 
 a little minced (fried) garlic. Used with braised 
 meats, such as larded tenderloin of beef, fri- 
 candeau of veal, legs or saddles of mutton, and 
 haunch of venison. 
 
 APRICOT SAUCE — A syrup sauce containing 
 apricct marmalade and a flavoring of Catawba 
 wine. Used for timbale of apples, charlotte of 
 apples, apple puddings, apple fritters. 
 
 AVIGNON SAUCE— Equal quantities of a Sou- 
 bise puree" and a good Bechamel sauce com- 
 bined together with the addition of a little 
 crushed garlic, Parmesan cheese and olive oil; 
 bring it to the boil, then thicken with a liaison 
 of egg yolks, strain and use for boiled legs of 
 mutton, boiled fowls and capons, stewed part- 
 ridge, boiled pheasant, boiled salt leg of pork, 
 fried sweetbreads, chicken croquettes, sweet- 
 bread croquettes. 
 
 AURORA SAUCE — Into some reduced Espag- 
 nole sauce work enough lobster butter to give 
 the sauce an orange color ... Or work lobster 
 butter into a Bechamel sauce ... Or take two 
 parts Bechamel and one part tomato sauce, 
 adding also a little mushroom catsup and lob- 
 ster butter. In either of these combinations 
 add the juice of a lemon, a dash of cayenne 
 pepper and tarragon vinegar. Used for baked 
 carp, boiled cod steak, baked fillets of soles, 
 halibut steak saut£, salmon steak saute, fillets 
 of trout saute, boiled trout; also used in pre- 
 paring "eggs a l'Aurcre" (see Eggs). 
 
 BAVARIAN S.\UCE— Boil some vinegar to half 
 its original volume with some butter, a little 
 horseradish, salt and grated nutmeg; beat some 
 yolks of eggs, then pour the boiling mixture to 
 it to make like mayonnaise, strain, then beat 
 in a little more butter, and some lobster roe, 
 beat till creamy and frothy, then use for cold 
 fish, and fish salads. 
 
 BECHAMEL SAUCE— Into some reduced chick- 
 en broth.add some mushroom essence or puree, 
 an equal quantity of rich milk or cream, a season- 
 ing of mace; bring to the boil, then thicken with 
 roux (flour and butter), strain. Used for boiled 
 chicken, scalloped codfish, scalloped halibut, 
 scalloped turbot, scalloped sweetbreads;chicken, 
 turkey and sweetbread croquettes; also for mix- 
 ing with green peas, asparagus points, mace- 
 doine of vegetables, etc. when used for garnish- 
 ing. 
 
 BEARNAISE SAUCE— Braise some shallots 
 with a little tarragon vinegar, add some rich, 
 thin Veloute sauce, simmer, then add some 
 
156 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 beaten yolks of eggs; when like custard, re- 
 move from the fire, then beat in melted butter 
 at the rate of three tablespoons to the pint, 
 work in the juice of a lemon, a little cayenne 
 pepper, then strain and finish with some finely 
 chopped parsley and tarragon. Used for 
 broiled steaks, roast fillet of beef, broiled 
 sweetbreads, lamb fries, veal and lamb cutlets. 
 
 BEYROUT SAUCE— Fetch to the boil one and a 
 half pounds of butter with two minced medium 
 sized onions, a basting spoonful of tarragon vine- 
 gar and the same of common vinegar, a half pint 
 of Espagnole, a half cupful each of mushroom 
 catsup and Harvey sauce; simmer, skim, then 
 boil till creamy, remove from the fire, finish 
 with a litrie sugar and anchovy essence. Used 
 with cold fish and fish salads. 
 
 BIGARADE SAUCE- -Take equal quantities of 
 game and Espagnole sauces, and work in the 
 juice and grated rind of Seville or other bitter 
 orange. Used for braised fillet of beef, stewed 
 duck, fried duckling, roast duck. 
 
 BOHEMIAN SAUCE— Make some panada with 
 chicken or veal broth, and work into it some 
 grated horseradish and a little butter. (A 
 white bread sauce, used with roast partridge). 
 
 BOUERGOISE SAUCE— Into a pint of thin 
 Espagnole, work a spoonful each of chopped 
 parsley, chervil, tarragan, meat glaze, French 
 mustard and sugar, bring it to a simmer, then 
 add the juice of a lemon. Used with forcemeat 
 balls; in garnishing fricandeaus of veal, car- 
 bonades of mutton, roulade of veal, saute of 
 pigs feet (boneless), and braised ox heart. 
 
 BOURGIGNOTTE SAUCE— Into some Espag- 
 nole, work some minced fried onions, sliced 
 truffles and mushrooms, finish with some Bur- 
 gundy wine. Used with braised small game 
 birds, braised carp, whole carp stewed in red 
 wine, fried cutlets of sturgeon, mutton cutlets 
 sautees, fillets of pigeons sautees. 
 
 BORDELAISE SAUCE, WHITE— Into a rich 
 butter sauce work some minced fried shallots, 
 chopped parsley and white wine. Used with 
 matelote of eels, paupiettes of soles, boiled 
 mackerel, crimped cutlets of pike, boiled hali- 
 but, turbot. 
 
 BORDELAISE SAUCE, BROWN— Into some 
 Espagnole, work some minced fried shallots, 
 and garlic, red wine, cayenne papper, chopped 
 parsley, lemon juice and slices of beef marrow . 
 Used with broiled steaks and almost any braised 
 red meat . . . Omit the marrow and add fillets 
 of anchovies and a little anchovy essence, it is 
 then used with braised fish, also baked and 
 broiled fish. 
 
 BRESSOISE SAUCE— Into some Madeira sauce, 
 work a puree made of chicken livers, panada, 
 fried minced shallots, grated rind and juice of 
 an orange. Used with roast chicken, chicken 
 
 croquettes, roast capon, omelet of chicken liv- 
 ers, and quenelles of turkey. 
 
 BRETONNE SAUCE, HOT— Into some Espag- 
 nole, work a puree of fried onions, finish with 
 chopped parsley. Used with roast mutton, 
 braised saddle of mutton, cutlets of mutton, 
 braised ox cheek, and grenadins of pork. 
 
 BRETONNE SAUCE, COLD— A spoonful each 
 of mustard and sugar, with two spoonfuls of 
 grated horseradish, worked into a half pint of 
 tarragon vinegar. Used with cold roast or 
 braised mutton, beef, ox tongue, roast pork, 
 etc. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE— Into a good butter or Veloute 
 sauce, work in some whole capers and a little 
 tarragon vinegar. Used with boiled mutton, 
 boiled fresh ox tongue and boiled pigs feet. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH —Make a white 
 roux, moisten it with a light consomme, season 
 it with cayenne, grated nutmeg, essence of 
 anchovies, lemon juice, and capers, with a dash 
 of caper vinegar. Used with broiled salmon 
 steak, broiled carp, baked codfish, boiled red 
 mullet, boiled pike, boiled sheephead, boiled 
 red snapper, boiled shad, and braised salmon 
 trout. 
 
 CARROT SAUCE — Into some Veloute sauce 
 work a puree of young carrots. Very good for 
 boiled beef. 
 
 CARDINAL SAUCE— Into a good Veloute sauce 
 work some lobster butter, a little anchovy es- 
 sence, lemon juice, cayenne, essence of mush- 
 rooms, and lobster roe, or shrimps, rubbed 
 through a tamis. Used with boiled chicken 
 and capon, boudins of lobster, paupiettes of 
 soles, ragout of mullets, fillets of perch, stuffed 
 and braised carp and pike, boiled salmon, fillets 
 of turbot and halibut, fillets of soles and boiled 
 sturgeon. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER SAUCE— Into a good butter 
 sauce work some small flowerets of white cauli- 
 flower. Very good for boiled poultry. 
 
 CELERY SAUCE, WHITE— Into some light 
 Allemande sauce work a puree of celery. Good 
 with boiled turkey and white entrees of turkey 
 wings. 
 
 CELERY SAUCE, BROWN— Into a good thick- 
 ened roast poultry gravy work in some finely 
 cut celery and simmer it till done. Very good 
 with roast poultry, and dry, brown entrees of 
 poultry. 
 
 CHASSEUR SAUCE— Into equal parts of Es- 
 pagnole and tomato sauces, work some minced 
 fried onions, sliced mushrooms, chopped pars- 
 ley and lemon juice. Used with mutton cut- 
 lets sautees, saute* of partridge, veal cutlets, 
 roast prairie chicken, roast black game, braised 
 small game birds, venison steak, cutlets of roe- 
 buck, roast young rabbit, 'egs of rabbit saute, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 157 
 
 fillets of hare or jackrabbit, and braised larded 
 ribs of beef. 
 
 CHANTAUSEN SAUCE— A syrup sauce flav- 
 ored with cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and 
 Chantausen wine. Used for puddings and 
 sweet entrees. 
 
 CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE— One pint of Es- 
 pagnole, a half pint of meat glaze, a half pint 
 of white wine, simmer, strain, then beat in a 
 half pint of maitre d'hotel sauce. Used with 
 broiled steaks, fillets of beef. 
 
 CHAMBORD SAUCE— Into a pint of Veloute, 
 work a half pint of white mushroom pured, a 
 piece of chicken glaze, a glass of sauterne, and 
 a spoonful of lobster butter. Used with fillets 
 of bass, baked bass, pike, carp, fish croquettes. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE SAUCE— Into a pint of Espag- 
 nole, simmer a half pint each of sherry wine 
 and vinegar with a little sugar. Good with 
 roast ham. 
 
 CHADEAU SAUCE— A foaming sauce of eight 
 yolks and two whites of eggs, juice of a lemon, 
 half a pound of sugar, a quart of chablis, 
 whipped over a slow fire to boiling point. Used 
 for sweet entrees. 
 
 CHAUDFROID SAUCE— Take some carcasses 
 of roast game or poultry and a bunch of mixed 
 garden herbs, cover with good stock, simmer 
 for several hours, strain, skim, boil up again 
 and add enough gelatine to make a brown 
 jellied gravy. Used with roast poultry. 
 
 CHERRY SAUCE— Sweet, butter sauce, con- 
 taining cherries that have been stewed with 
 port wine and sugar, then rubbed through a 
 sieve. Used for sweet entrees. 
 
 CHEVREUIL SAUCE— Into one-third part Es- 
 pagnole sauce, one-third tomato sauce and one- 
 third stock, add a little thyme, a bunch of pars- 
 ley, two or three bay leaves, some minced fried 
 shallots, a spoonful of white pepper, some tar- 
 ragon vinegar and butter; reduce it to one-half 
 of its original bulk, strain, finish with currant 
 jelly, Harvey sauce and port wine. Used with 
 roebuck and venison, roasted, filleted, braised, 
 etc. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE— Chop together six tomatoes, 
 four green peppers, one onion, add them to a 
 pint of white wine vinegar, with one teaspoon 
 of sugar and a little salt, simmer for one hour, 
 strain, bottle. Used as a table condiment. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE— Into a good Bechamel sauce, 
 work some minced red peppers, tomatoes, shal- 
 lots and minced parsley, finish with melted 
 butter, catawba wine and lime juice. Good 
 with veal cutlets, pork tenderloins, boneless 
 pigs feet, stewed catfish, lamb fries, fricadelles, 
 broiled beef palates, pickled lamb tongues. 
 
 CLAREMONT SAUCE— Minced onions fried in 
 
 oil, drained, then added to a thick veal gravy. 
 Good with roast veal. 
 
 CLARET SAUCE— A foaming sauce of grated 
 lemon rind, powdered cinnamon, eggs, sugar and 
 claret, whipped over a slow fire to boiling 
 point. Used with puddings and sweet entrees. 
 
 COLBERT SAUCE— Into a pint of Espagnole, 
 work in a spoonful of meat glaze, a little cay- 
 enne, lemon juice and chopped parsley, make 
 very hot, but do not boil, then very gradually 
 beat in a cupful of melted butter. Used with 
 broiled meats, and most cutlets. 
 
 COURT -BOUILLON SAUCE— Into a butter 
 sauce that has been made from the stock of 
 boiled fish, add some rings of boiled onions and 
 chopped parsley. Used with boiled codfish, 
 boiled haddock, braised eels, boiled rockfish, 
 boiled plaice, boiled weakfish, boiled redsnap- 
 per, and boiled salmon trout. 
 
 CRAPAUDINE SAUCE— Take equal quantities 
 of Espagnole and tomato sauces, combine them, 
 then add some minced gherkins, shallots, chives, 
 olives and capers, a little mustard, tarragon 
 vinegar, minced mushrooms and a glass of 
 sherry wine. Used with braised brisket of 
 beef, broiled pork chops, frog legs, boiled calf's 
 head, broiled pigeons, fried saddles of rabbit, 
 calf's liver saute, braised fillets of hare, broiled 
 opossum, braised turtle fins, and venison. 
 
 CREOLE SAUCE— Into a good tomato sauce, 
 work in some chopped blanched sweet peppers, 
 minced fried shallots, a little Madeira sauce 
 and Madeira wine. Used with scallops of fillet 
 of beef, ragout of beef, chicken saute, pork 
 rissoles, honeycomb tripe cut in finger lengths 
 and stewed down rich in it, catfish steak saute, 
 tomatoes stuffed with crab meat, fried oysters, 
 timbales of spaghetti, boiled spaghetti with 
 minced ham made hot in it, broiled pork kid- 
 neys and lamb fries, pork tenderloins, fried 
 spareribs, veal chops saute^s, timbale of calf 
 brains, croquettes of beef, beef sweetbreads 
 sautees, minced mutton cutlets. 
 
 CREVETTE SAUCE— Into a cardinal sauce 
 work some pieces of shrimps and anchovies. 
 Used with boiled crimped codfish, boiled plaice 
 and flounders, fillets of Spanish mackerel, 
 boiled trout and whitefish, fried soles. 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce, 
 work a puree of cucumbers or some slices of 
 cucumber fried with butter. Good for boiled 
 salmon and trout. 
 
 CURRY SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, boil a 
 ham knuckle for an hour, then remove and 
 work in a liaison of egg yolks beaten with curry 
 powder; simmer, strain. Used with pork chops, 
 pork tenderloin, fried veal chops and cutlets, 
 and tripe. 
 
 CZARINA SAUCE — Into some Espagnole work 
 the juice of a lemon, some minced gherkins and 
 
158 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 
 then 
 
 seedless raisins, boil till the fruit is soft 
 serve with boiled ox tongue. 
 
 CURACOA SAUCE— A butter syrup sauce con- 
 taining curacoa. Used with puddings and some 
 sweet entrees in the fritter line. 
 
 CUSTARD SAUCE — Boiling milk or cream 
 poured to and whipped in to half a pound of 
 sugar and six beaten eggs to each quart of milk; 
 flavored as desired, but generally with nutmeg 
 or vanilla. Used with puddings and sweet 
 entrees. 
 
 CRANBERRY SAUCE-Cranberries stewed with 
 sugar till soft, then rubbed through a sieve. 
 Used with roast turkey. 
 
 DIABLE SAUCE — Three tablespoonfuls of 
 melted butter, three of meat glaze, one of 
 sugar, half a cupful of mushroom catsup, and 
 the same of white wine, juice of a lemon, and 
 enough cayenne pepper to make it as hot as its 
 name implies; thoroughly incorporate while 
 making it hot, but do not allow it to boil. Used 
 with broiled steaks, broiled kidneys, broiled 
 ham steaks, broiled live lobster, broiled pork 
 chops and spareribs. 
 
 DIABLE SAUCE— Another way of making is to 
 take one- third stock and two-thirds of good 
 Espagnole, and work into them some Worces- 
 tershire sauce, cayenne pepper and made mus- 
 tard, then simmer and strain. 
 
 DIPLOMATE SAUCE— Into a good Bechamel 
 sauce, work some crayfish butter and a little 
 court-bouillon. Good for most boiled white 
 fleshed fish. 
 
 DUCHESSE SAUCE— Into a pint of tomato 
 sauce work in half a pint of lean cooked ham 
 in small dice, half a cupful of white wine, a 
 little glaze, bring to the boil, remove from the 
 fire, and then beat in a half pint of Hollandaise 
 sauce. Used with pork, veal and mutton chops, 
 plain macaroni, Vienna steaks, pork tenderloin 
 and spareribs, ham croquettes, fried tripe, epi- 
 gramme of sweetbreads, braised breast of veal, 
 roulade of mutton, fried boneless pigs feet 
 breaded, rechauffe of mutton, fried chicken 
 
 D'UXELLES SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, 
 work some white wine, minced mushrooms, 
 grated tongue and chopped parsley ... Or else 
 use Bechamel sauce and work in minced pars- 
 ley, shallots, mushrooms and grated ham. It 
 is used for coating cutlets prior to their being 
 breaded and fried. 
 EGG SAUCE — Into a butter sauce, work in some 
 chopped hard boiled eggs and the juice of a 
 lemon. Useful for all kinds of plain boiled 
 fish. 
 ESPAGNOLE SAUCE— Two pounds of good 
 cooking butter placed in the bottom of a large 
 sautoir; into it then place, chopped in good 
 sized pieces, two ham knuckles, three shins of 
 
 veal, a shin of beef, and let them fry brown; 
 then add slices of carrots, onions, turnips, cel- 
 ery, parsiey, thyme, marjoram, savory, bay 
 leaves, cloves, allspice, peppers; when browned, 
 add sufficient flour to form a roux. Let the 
 flour brown also Then moisten gradually with 
 a rich clear brown stock; boil up and skim, 
 then add plenty of tomatoes; boil and skim 
 again, then add two or three chickens (old ones, 
 useful for salad afterward) or roast fowl car- 
 casses; simmer slowly for several hours, then 
 strain off into a clean sautoir; then add a gallon 
 of consomme, and reduce rapidly till of a good 
 consistency ; strain off again and finish with good 
 sherry wine. This is one of the grand stock 
 sauces which form the basis of most of the 
 brown sauces used. YOU CANNOT BE TOO 
 PARTICULAR IN ITS PREPARATION, 
 FOR IF THE FIRST PROCESS IS NOT 
 SUCCESSFULLY EFFECTED, NO SUB- 
 SEQUENT CARE WILL REMEDY THE 
 MISCHIEF. 
 
 FINE HERBS SAUCE — Saute together with 
 butter some minced parsley, shallots and mush- 
 rooms, season with a little pepper and nutmeg; 
 after about five minutes, pour off the waste 
 butter, and add a ladle of good Espagnole 
 if for brown, or a ladle of good Veloute sauce 
 if for white. Used with scallops of mutton, 
 scallops of hare and rabbit, fried reed and rice 
 birds, saute of soles, brook trout baked in cases 
 of paper spread with the sauce, roulade of beef, 
 stuffed calf's heart, roulade of veal, veal chops 
 and cutlets, broiled steaks, brains, sweetbreads, 
 lamb fries. 
 
 FENNEL SAUCE- Into a good butter sauce, 
 work a spoonful of chopped fennel leaves. 
 Looks like parsley sauce. Used with boiled 
 mackerel and boiled salmon. 
 
 FINANCIERE SAUCE— Into a quart of good 
 Espagnole, work a little meat glaze, cayenne, a 
 half pint of Madeira wine, a half pint of mush- 
 room liquor or mushroom catsup, and a few 
 minced mushrooms and truffles Used with 
 roast or braised black game and grouse, . . . 
 boudins of game, . . . sauteed fillets of fowls, 
 . . . larded and braised legs of fowls, . . .boned, 
 stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, . . . paupi- 
 ettes of ox palates, ... for heating a salmis of 
 partridge, ... for a filling to raised pies of 
 game, rabbits and quails, . . . roast pheasant, 
 . . . boned, stuffed and braised quails, . . . 
 larded and braised fillets of rabbits, . . . braised 
 sweetbreads, . . . turkey stuffed with veal force- 
 meat and roasted, . . . veal chops larded and 
 braised, . . . larded and braised fricandeau of 
 veal, . . . larded and braised woodcocks. 
 
 FLEMISH SAUCE— (i) Into a butter sauce, 
 work a little grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, 
 tarragon vinegar, and a liaison of yolk of eggs 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 159 
 
 with a little mustard. (2) Make a quart of veg- 
 etable cream sauce, then take a cupful of the 
 red part of carrot, mince it, boil till done, add 
 it to the sauce, together with some chopped 
 cucumber, pickles, parsley and grated horse 
 radish. Used with boiled beef. 
 
 FUMET SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, boi' 
 some game carcasses, strain and finish with 
 port wine. Used with roast game. 
 
 GENEVOISE SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, 
 add a little grated ham, carrots, minced onions, 
 a few bay leaves, cloves, a clove of garlic, some 
 thyme and parsley, boil fifteen minutes, add 
 some claret wine, strain, and finish by beating 
 in anchovy essence and butter to taste. Used 
 with braised eels, baked pike, broiled salmon, 
 broiled red snapper, fricandeau of sturgeoD, 
 baked trout, baked whitefish, brook trout, 
 braised sheephead, baked pickerel, baked Span- 
 ish mackerel, baked and stuffed bluefish, black- 
 fish saute. 
 
 GENOISE SAUCE— Equal quantities of Espag- 
 nole and court-bouillon sauces boiled together 
 for ten minutes with the addition of some port 
 wine, ground mace, essence of anchovies and 
 walnut catsup, then strain, finish with a little 
 chopped parsley. Used with larded and braised 
 eels, fillets of bluefish, roast carp, baked cod 
 steak, roast eels, baked haddock, baked Span- 
 ish mackerel, baked mullet, braised pike and 
 pickerel, baked salmon, braised sheephead, 
 broiled fillets of red snapper, baked sturgeon, 
 baked trout, baked or braised carp, boiled char, 
 matelote of eels, broiled mackerel, boiled 
 salmon steak, roast turbot and halibut. 
 
 GERMAN SAUCE— A foaming sauce, made of 
 twelve eggs beaten fifteen minutes. Now place 
 into a sautoir half a pound of powdered sugar 
 and a pint of Marsala wine, make hot, but do 
 not boil, then beat in the eggs with the juice of 
 a couple of lemons, whip till thick and frothy 
 without boiling. A rich pudding sauce. 
 
 GIBLET SAUCE— The trimmed and finely shred 
 gizzards, livers and hearts of poultry stewed 
 tender and added to the thickened and strained 
 gravy of roast poultry and served with it. 
 
 GODARD SAUCE— Fry some slices of ham, car- 
 rots and onions in butter till brown, then add a 
 quart of good cider, simmer for half an hour, 
 then add a can of mushrooms minced, and their 
 liquor, reduce for ten minutes, then strain it 
 into a quart of good Espagnole, and boil till 
 creamy. Used with braised fowls, braised 
 capons, braised turkey, roast ham, boned, 
 stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, braised leg 
 of mutton, carbonade of mutton. 
 
 GOLDEN SAUCE (Sauce Doree)— Half a pound 
 of butter beaten till very creamy; into it dis- 
 solve half a pound of powdered sugar, now beat 
 in the yolks of two eggs over the fire; when 
 
 thick, work in half a pint of brandy and a grat- 
 ing of nutmeg. A good pudding sauce. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, 
 work a puree of stewed green gooseberries. It 
 is liked by many with boiled mackerel. 
 
 HAM SAUCE — Into a Madeira sauce, work some 
 minced shallots and grated ham that have been 
 fried together, finish with the juice of a lemon. 
 Used with roast veal. 
 
 HANOVER SAUCE— Take chicken livers and 
 boil them, then rub through the tamis, add 
 cream sauce, lemon juice and a dash of cay- 
 enne, little salt, make hot but do not boil. Used 
 with roast poultry. 
 
 HARROGATE SAUCE— After roasting veal and 
 poultry, take the roasting pan, add some 
 minced shallots and grated lemon rind, bake 
 till shallots are brown, then add some flour and 
 stir it with the residue in the pan from the 
 roasting, moisten with stock to the proper con- 
 sistency of sauce, then add some mushroom 
 catsup, cayenne, claret wine and lemon juice, 
 boil up, strain and skim. Used with roast veal 
 and poultry. 
 
 HARD SAUCE — One pound of powdered sugar 
 and eleven ounces of good butter worked to- 
 gether till creamy. Some add grated nutmeg. 
 Used with plum pudding. 
 
 HAVRAISE SAUCE— Make a good butter sauce 
 with strong broth from boiled fish, then beat 
 in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Good for 
 all plain fish boiled. 
 
 HOLLANDAISE SAUCE— One cupful each of 
 white vinegar and butter, a half cup of lemon 
 juice, two cupfuls of chicken stock, little salt 
 and cayenne, boil, then pour it, beating the 
 while, to a liaison of egg yolks till thick like 
 custard. Used with boiled sea bass, boiled cod- 
 fish and haddock, fillets of codfish, boiled eels, 
 boiled plaice and flounders, boiled halibut, 
 boiled kingfish, boiled perch, boiled rockfish, 
 boiled salmon, boiled sheephead, boiled weak- 
 fish, boiled sturgeon, boiled whitefish, cauli- 
 flower, asparagus. 
 
 HORSERADISH SAUCE— Fresh grated horse- 
 radish boiled in white stock, seasoned with 
 pepper and nutmeg, then is worked in a liaison 
 of egg yolks and tarragon vinegar. MUST 
 NOT BOIL after liaison is added. Used with 
 boiled beef, broiled steaks . . . Another form 
 for roast beef is to add the grated root to 
 thickened and strained roast beef gravy, add- 
 ing a little Worcestershire sauce . . . Again, 
 for cold roast beef, simply grated horseradish 
 seasoned with salt and white vinegar. Some 
 add to this a little cream sauce. 
 
 INDIENNE SAUCE— Braise together some ham 
 trimmings, a few anchovies, onions, green 
 apples, thyme and whole peppers, then add 
 
i6o 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 curry powder to taste, fill up with Veloute 
 sauce, boil, add the juice of a lemon and a few 
 beaten yolks, beat till creamy, then strain for 
 use with pork chops, pork tenderloin, fried veal 
 chops and cutlets, fried tripe, fried chicken, 
 roast veal, fried calf's head, fried sweetbreads 
 and lamb fries, cannelons of ox palates, fried 
 pigs feet, fried saddles of rabbit. 
 
 ITALIAN SAUCE, WHITE— Into a Veloute 
 sauce, work some minced and fried shallots and 
 mushrooms, chopped parsley arid white wine. 
 For ITALIAN SAUCE, BROWN, substitute 
 Espagnole for Veloute, and Madeira for the 
 white wine. Used with calf's head, boiled 
 calf's tongue, broiled calf's liver, fried pigs 
 feet, attereaux of rabbit, broiled tripe, stuffed 
 turkey legs, sauteed artichokes, braised black 
 game and grouse, fried calf's feet, capilotade 
 of chicken, boiled chicken, boudins of salmon, 
 sauteed fillets of haddock, fried larks, rice and 
 reed birds, roast pheasant, croquettes of rabbit, 
 chicken and turkey, fried skate, boiled trout, 
 fillets of turbot and halibut, scallops of veal 
 and ham, breaded pork tenderloin. 
 
 JARDINIERE SAUCE— Take a small column 
 cutter and cut out columns of carrots, white 
 and yellow turnips; slice them quarter inch 
 thick, add some very small button onions; fry 
 all in butter with a little sugar; when brown, 
 add a little stock and simmer till done, then 
 drain them; when drained, place them into a 
 rich Espagnole sauce, adding some cooked green 
 peas, finely cut stringless beans and very small 
 pieces of cauliflower Used with braised beef' 
 boudins of partridge, braised calf's liver, braised 
 capon, braised duck, braised neck of mutton, 
 larded and roast leg of lamb, boned and braised 
 leg of mutton, braised ox cheek, boiled salted 
 ox tongue, fricandeau of veal, roast breast of 
 veal, boned, stuffed and braised breast of veal 
 
 JOLIE-FILLE SAUCE— Half a pint of panada 
 two small onions sliced, two yolks of hard 
 boiled eggs, one pound of veal or poultry meat, 
 all boiled with one quart of Veloute sauce; 
 when done, rub through'the tamis, and bring 
 to the sauce consistency with boiling milk; fin- 
 ish with a little chopped parsley. Used with 
 boiled chicken, boiled capon, boiled turkey, 
 sweetbreads, croquettes of veal, fowl, turkey, 
 sweetbreads, lamb, and boudins of white meat. 
 
 LIVOURNAISE SAUCE— Into a mayonnaise 
 work some pounded anchovies and chopped 
 parsley. Used with cold fish. 
 
 LIVERNAISE SAUCE— Out of carrots, white 
 and yellow turnips, scoop very small balls 
 steam them till barely done, then drain, and 
 fry with a little butter and sugar to glaze them; 
 then add them to equal parts of Espagnole and 
 tomato sauces; simmer till done. Used with 
 sauteed cutlets of veal, mutton, fricandeaus of 
 
 veal, braised legs and saddles of mutton, fillets 
 of beef, braised fowls and capon. 
 
 LYONNAISE SAUCE— Into a combined sauce 
 of two-thirds tomato and one-third Espagnole, 
 add rings of onions that have been lightly fried 
 with butter and then drained. Used with sau- 
 teed fillets of fowls, broiled pork cutlets, roast 
 leg or sparerib of pork, sauteed legs or saddles 
 of rabbit. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE— Into a butter sauce work 
 some lobster roe, pieces of lobster meat, lemon 
 juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with cro- 
 quettes of lobster, boiled haddock, cod, pike, 
 whitefish, pickerel, plaice, saute of red snap- 
 per, lobster cutlets, croquettes of shad roe. 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE— Powdered sugar, Madeira 
 wine, yolks of eggs and grated lemon rind 
 beaten together over fire till thick. Used with 
 puddings and sweet entrees. 
 
 MADEIRA SAUCE— Equal quantities of Espag- 
 nole and tomato sauces well flavored with 
 Madeira wine. Used with steaks, cutlets, ten- 
 loin of beef, broiled liver, fried chicken, broiled 
 calf kidneys, braised fillets of hare, partridge, 
 roast pigeon, roast prairie chicken, brochette 
 or epigramme of rabbit, cutlets, croquettes and 
 rissoles of rabbit, glazed sweetbreads, broiled 
 turtle steaks, braised turtle fins, broiled veal 
 cutlets, kromeskies of veal, broiled venison 
 steak. 
 
 MAITRE D'HOTEL Sauce— Into melted butter 
 add lemon juice, chopped parsley and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Used with broiled steaks, fried 
 calf brains, broiled boneless pigs feet, broiled 
 snipe, broiled sweetbreads, brochette of fowl 
 and turkey, broiled woodcock and partridge, 
 artichoke bottoms, broiled soft shell crabs, 
 broiled frog legs, broiled lobster, broiled fresh 
 mushrooms, broiled oysters; broiled fish such 
 as sea bass, blackfish, fillets of striped bass, 
 bluefish, cisco, haddock, finnan haddie, hali- 
 but, herring, kingfish, Spanish mackerel, fresh 
 mackerel, salt mackerel, gray mullet, fillets of 
 pike and pickerel, smelts, salmon trout, brook 
 trout and whitefish, shad. 
 
 MATELOTE SAUCE— Into abutter sauce work 
 some boiled button onions, scalded mussels and 
 oysters, a flavor of garlic, essence of anchovies, 
 lemon juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with 
 boiled carp, crimped codfish, conger eel, skate, 
 sturgeon, bluefish, baked codfish and boiled 
 red snapper. 
 
 MATELOTE SAUCE— Equal quantities of veal 
 broth and white wine, some tarragon, parsley, 
 bay leaves, pepper and salt; boil ten minutes, 
 add a little Veloute sauce and strain. Used 
 with veal entries, roast veal and boiled calf 
 brains. 
 
 MAINTENON SAUCE- Braise some ham trim- 
 mings, chopped shallots, parsley and mush- 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 161 
 
 rooms with a little sugar and lemon juice; take 
 out the ham, add some Veloute sauce, reduce, 
 finish with a liaison of egg yolks, then strain. 
 Used with croquettes of white fleshed meats 
 and fowls, boudins of white meat, etc., and for 
 heating pieces of cooked white meat, etc., for 
 developing into entrees. 
 
 MAYONNAISE SAUCE— Take raw yolks of 
 eggs, beat in a little olive oil; when it becomes 
 like butter, add some salt, then a little more 
 oil, then dry mustard and cayenne; then alter- 
 nately oil, vinegar and lemon juice, till thick 
 enough to spread. Used with salads, cold fish, 
 and with aspic jelly to make aspic mayonnaise. 
 
 MILANAISE SAUCE— Into equal quantities of 
 Veloute and Supreme sauces, work some Par- 
 mesan cheese. Used with boiled capon, calf's 
 sweetbreads, boiled chicken, boiled leg of 
 lamb, breaded mutton and veal cutlets, quen- 
 elles and boudins. 
 
 MINT SAUCE — Finely chopped green mint and 
 a little grated orange rind placed in a tureen, 
 vinegar brought to the boil with enough sugar 
 to take off the rawness; poured to the chopped 
 min't, etc.; served with roast lamb. 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE (WHITE)— Into a Vel- 
 oute or Bechamel sauce work a puree of mush- 
 rooms, and some sliced button mushrooms that 
 have been lightly fried with butter; season with 
 lemon juice and cayenne. Used with boiled 
 chicken, capon, pheasant, partridge, sweet- 
 breads, legs and saddles of rabbits, turkey 
 wings, croquettes and rissoles of poultry, sweet- 
 breads, veal, etc. 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE (BROWN)— Into equal 
 quantities ox Espagnole and tomato sauces, 
 work in some mushroom puree and sliced but- 
 ton mushrooms that have been fried with but- 
 ter; a little chopped parsley, lemon juice and 
 Madeira wine. Used with roast fillet of beef, 
 braised sirloin of beef, broiled steaks, braised 
 ox and calf tongues, scallops of calf's liver, 
 braised veal, braised fowls, broiled pigeons and 
 young rabbits, cromeskies of sweetbreads, 
 broiled sweetbreads, broiled tripe, braised 
 turkey legs, roulade of veal, stuffed shoulder of 
 veal, fricandeau of veal, venison chops, broiled 
 veal chops and cutlets, broiled chicken, Ham- 
 burgher and Vienna steaks, braised ox heart, 
 stuffed calf's and sheep hearts. 
 
 N ANTAISE S AUCE-Into a white Ravigote sauce, 
 work in some pounded lobster and coral. Used 
 with fillets of fish such as soles, pompano, 
 kingfish, bass, pickerel, red snapper, trout, 
 whitefish, also with carp and shad roes. 
 
 NAPOLITAINE SAUCE— Into some Espagnole, 
 
 - work a little currant jelly, seedless raisins 
 and port wine. Used with braised capon, braised 
 sweetbreads, braised fresh ox tongue, braised 
 venison, braised turtle fins. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN SAUCE— Braise some vegetables 
 and bacon with garden herbs; when done, add 
 equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato 
 sauces, some game glaze and Madeira wine, 
 simmer twenty minutes and then strain. Used 
 with braised game chiefly. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN SAUCE— Into a good Espagnole, 
 work some currant jelly, grated horseradish, 
 grated ham, port wine and Harvey sauce. 
 Used with braised meat. 
 
 NICEOISE SAUCE— Into some cold Veloute 
 sauce work a liaison of hard boiled yolks of 
 eggs rubbed through a sieve and mixed with 
 oil vinegar, mustard, chopped chives and pars- 
 ley. This is a good cold sauce for cold meats. 
 
 NORMANDE SAUCE— Equal quantities of 
 court-bouillon and scalded oyster liquor thick- 
 ened lightly with roux, then with a liaison of 
 egg yolks and cream. Use with eels, filleted 
 sole, plaice, trout, pike, pickerel, whitefish, 
 halibut 
 
 NONPAREIL SAUCE— Into a Hollandaise sauce 
 work some sliced fried button mushrooms, 
 minced truffles, lobster coral, lobster butter and 
 some slices of hard boiled whites of eggs. Used 
 with boiled white flesh fish 
 
 ONION SAUCE, WHITE AND BROWN— Into 
 a Bechamel sauce simmer minced onions till 
 tender. Into equal quantities of Madeira and 
 Espagnole sauces simmer till tender some 
 minced fried onions. The white is generally 
 used with boiled mutton, and the brown with 
 roast and braised mutton. 
 
 ORANGE SAUCE— Into a brown poultry thick- 
 ened and strained gravy, simmer till tender 
 some shredded orange peel and finish with the 
 juice of an orange. Used with roast and braised 
 ducks. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE— Into a sauce Poulette, work 
 some scalded and cut up oysters, also some of 
 the scalded and strained oyster liquor. Used 
 with boiled white flesh fish, boiled capon, 
 boiled chicken and boiled turkey. 
 
 PARSLEY SAUCE— Into a butter sauce, work 
 some chopped parsley. Used with plain boiled 
 fish, boiled chicken, calf's head; dipping cut- 
 lets of meat and fowl in before breading; also 
 for mixing in with foods in preparing various 
 entrees. 
 
 PASCALINE SAUCE— Take some thin white 
 Italian sauce and raw egg yolks with the juice 
 of a lemon, simmer till creamy, strain, add 
 some chopped and blanched parsley. Used 
 with boiled poultry, sweetbreads, for reheating 
 entrees of the same, calf's head, calf brains, 
 pigs feet, turkey wings, grenadins of veal. 
 
 PERIGUEUX SAUCE— Into a Madeira sauce 
 work some minced and fried shallots, a little 
 meat glaze, anchovy butter, sliced truffles and 
 
l62 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Madeira wine. Used with fillets of beef , sweet- 
 breads, croquettes of poultry and game, stuffed 
 pheasant legs, quenelles of turtle, cromeskies 
 of veal, braised small game birds, roast black 
 game, boudins of poultry, carp stewed in wine 
 and drained, fried fillets of hare and rabbit, 
 roast turkey, roast pheasant, larded and roasted 
 pork, veal cutlets, filleted woodcock. 
 PIQUANTE SAUCE— Minced pickles, shallots, 
 olives, capers, a spoonful each of lemon juice 
 and caper vinegar, mixed intc a Madeira sauce, 
 simmered for a few minutes and served with 
 boiled beef, pigs feet, calf's head, boiled 
 tongue, calf's liver, carbonade of mutton, fried 
 or broiled young pigeons, pork chops and pork 
 tenderloin, braised venison, venison rissoles, 
 broiled and fried tripe, antelope, bear, veni- 
 son and buffalo steaks. 
 
 PORTUGUESE SAUCE— Reduce with half a 
 pint of sherry wine, a bay leaf, thyme, mace, 
 peppercorns, cloves, for ten minutes, then add 
 half a pint of Espagnole and half that quantity 
 of consomm£; let the whole boil slowly till of 
 the required consistency, skim, then strain and 
 use with braised fillet of beef . 
 
 POIVRADE SAUCE— Fry together with butter 
 of a light brown color a diced carrot, diced 
 onion and a head of celery, a slice of lean ham 
 diced, some thyme, parsley, blade of mace, bay 
 leaf, and a few bruised peppercorns; then 
 moisten with half a pint of sherry and the same 
 of white vinegar. Reduce to half its volume^ 
 then add a ladle of Espagnole and a little con- 
 somme; boil up, skim, strain, and use with 
 braised mutton, braised roebuck, cannelons of 
 ox-palates, saute of rabbits and hares, roast 
 young rabbit, broiled legs and saddles of rab- 
 bit; legs and saddles of cooked rabbit, cooled, 
 then breaded and fried; larded fillets of veni- 
 son, venison chops and braised venison. 
 
 Another way of making POIVRADE SAUCE 
 is to take equal quantities of Espagnole and 
 tomato sauces, work in some minced shallots, a 
 bunch of parsley, bay leaves, a tablespoon of 
 white pepper to each quart, along with two 
 ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of vin- 
 egar; reduce to half its volume, strain, then 
 finish with a little Harvey sauce, port wine and 
 red currant jelly. 
 
 POLONAISE SAUCE— Make a sauce with veal 
 broth and boil in it some grated horseradise, 
 juice of a lemon, chopped fennel or parsley 
 leaves and a little sugar; season with salt and 
 nutmeg, strain and use with roast veal. 
 
 PAPILLOTE SAUCE— Fry together for five 
 minutes slowly a slice of bacon scraped, two 
 scraped onions and two cloves of garlic, and 
 some minced mushrooms, then moisten with a 
 quart of Madeira sauce, boil up, finish with 
 chopped parsley, Used with cutlets of food 
 
 that are first sauteed, cooled, dipped in sauce, 
 then placed in cutlet papers and slowly broiled, 
 such as salmon cutlets, mutton cutlets, part- 
 ridge cutlets, halves of boned squabs, cutlets of 
 veal. 
 
 POULETTE SAUCE— Make a white sauce with 
 strong chicken broth, then work in a liaison of 
 egg yolks and cream; strain, finish with the 
 juice of a lemon and some chopped parsley. 
 Used with artichoke bottoms, blanquette of 
 lamb fries and lamb sweetbreads, boudins of 
 poultry, boiled capon, boiled chicken, boiled 
 turkey, entree of calf or lamb tails, inch lengths 
 of stewed cucumbers, eels that have been 
 stewed with a little wine, lamb's feet simmered 
 in white broth till tender, scallops of sweet- 
 breads, scallops of veal, boiled calf's head, 
 stewed pig's feet, stewed turtle fins, stewed 
 breast of veal, lamb and mutton. 
 
 PROVENCALE SAUCE— Four hard boiled egg 
 yolks, four anchovies, a spoonful of capers, a 
 little chopped tarragon, parsley, chervil, a 
 clove of garlic, a seasoning of salt, pepper, a 
 wine glass of olive oil and half of vinegar. 
 Pound the whole, then rub through a tamis; 
 finish with a little chopped parsley and lemon 
 juice. Used with broiled eels, but mostly with 
 fish salads. 
 
 PROVENCALE SAUCE- Stew together for five 
 minutes, four bruised cloves of garlic, some 
 thyme, parsley stalks, spoonful of capers, bay 
 leaf, and the pulp of a lemon with a little olive 
 oil; then moisten with a ladle of espagnole, add 
 a pinch of pepper and a piece of glaze. Let 
 the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour, 
 then rub through the tamis; finish with a little 
 anchovy butter. Used with roast fillet of 
 beef, calf's brains fried in batter, carp stewed 
 in white wine, braised ducks, braised leg of 
 mutton; braised cutlets of mutton, cooled, then 
 spread with a stuffing on one side only, re- 
 heated and served; braised boned ox cheek, 
 salmis of partridge, scallops of sweetbreads, 
 scallops of veal. 
 
 PROVENCALE SAUCE— Into some espagnole 
 work some minced fried mushrooms, onions, 
 tomatoes and a clove of garlic. Used with 
 braised beef. 
 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
 a puree of parsley and tarragon leaves, some 
 minced fried shallots and a little white vine- 
 gar. Used with calf brains, ox piths fried in 
 batter, roast partridge, skinned perch boiled in 
 white wine, fillets of turbot, fillets of halibut 
 and other white fleshed fish. 
 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Into a mayonnaise work 
 a puree of chives, chervil, parsley, tarragon 
 and shallots. U.>ed with cold meat and meat 
 salads. 
 
 RAVIGOTE SAUCE— Take a small teacup and 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 163 
 
 put in a third each of tarragon vinegar, chili 
 vinegar and Harvey sauce; pour the cupful 
 thus obtained into a small sautoir and boil it 
 down to half the quantity, then add half a pint 
 of butter sauce and a ladlespoon of mixed 
 chopped chives, chervil, parsley and tarragon. 
 Used with boiled poultry and fillets of fish. 
 
 REGENCY SAUCE— Braise some ham trim- 
 mings, shallots and onions, then add equal 
 quantities of chicken glaze, espagnole and to- 
 mato sauces, boil slowly for twenty minutes 
 then strain and use with braised meat, game 
 and poultry. 
 
 REGENCY SAUCE— Cut an eel of a pound 
 weight into thin slices and boil gently with a 
 pint of claret, adding cloves, mace, thyme, bay 
 leaf, carrot, mushrooms, an onion and a little 
 salt, for half an hour, then rub the whole 
 through a tamis. Put the essence then into a 
 sautoir and add a ladleful of espagnole; boil, 
 skim, finish by working in some essence of 
 truffles, anchovy butter, nutmeg, lemon juice 
 and a knob of sugar. This sauce is admirably 
 adapted for every sort of colored fleshed fish. 
 
 RAIFORT SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
 some grated horseradish and a little white vin- 
 egar. Used with fresh boiled beef, salt beef 
 and fresh boiled ox tongues; also some like it 
 with steaks. 
 
 REMOULADE SAUCE— Pounded hard boiled 
 yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, mixed 
 with olive oil, vinegar, dry mustard, minced 
 garlic, chopped parsley and parsley juice. 
 Used with frog legs, cold meat and meat salads. 
 
 REFORM SAUCE — Another form or name of 
 Poivrade sauce, (which see). 
 
 RICHELIEU SAUCE — Into a white game sauce, 
 work some minced fried onions and a little 
 white wine. Used with game birds. 
 
 ROE SAUCE — Into a butter sauce, work a puree 
 of fish roes, using the soft roe or milt. Used 
 with plain boiled fish. 
 
 ROYAL SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce, work a 
 puree of chicken and bread panada; finish with 
 a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used with 
 boiled capon, boiled chicken, sweetbreads, 
 boiled turkey, boiled pariridge, pheasant, 
 cushion of veal. 
 
 ROBERT SAUCE— Minced fried onions, dry 
 mustard, a little meat glaze and white wine 
 mixed into espagnole or other brown sauce. 
 Used with roast pork, broiled or fried pork 
 tenderloins, pork chops, and many entrees of 
 pork. 
 
 RUSSIAN SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work 
 some grated horseradish and vinegar, then 
 work in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. . . (2) 
 Into a Veloute sauce work some grated horse- 
 radish, vinegar, sugar, white wine, then some 
 
 lightly fried grated ham, minced shallots and 
 garden herbs. Used with boiled beef and 
 tongues. . . (3) Made mustard, tarragon vine- 
 gar, salt, pepper, sugar, and grated horseradish 
 stirred together. Used with cold meat. 
 
 SAGE SAUCE — Good for roast pork and goose. 
 Make a brown gravy in the pan with the resi- 
 due of the roasting, add some chopped sage 
 leaves, simmer for 15 minutes, then strain and 
 skim. 
 
 STE MENEHOULD SAUCE— Make a cream 
 sauce and boil in it some minced onions till 
 tender, strain, then add some chopped parsley 
 and minced mushrooms, simmer for ten min- 
 utes, skim, then use with boiled pigs' feet, 
 boiled calf's head and feet, calf's brains and 
 ears, salt pigs' head, ox piths and ox palates. 
 
 SCALLOP SAUCE — Into a good butter sauce, 
 work some cut cooked scallops and their 
 strained and skimmed liquor. Used with plain 
 boiled fish. 
 
 SHALLOT SAUCE— Into a sauce made from 
 the residue of roasting poultry, game or suck- 
 ling pig, work some butter and minced shallots 
 that have been stewed in sherry wine, and use 
 with the meats mentioned. 
 
 SICILIAN SAUCE— Take some veal stock and 
 boil in it a ham knuckle, a head of celery, a 
 clove of crushed garlic, the peel of a lemon, a 
 few cloves and crushed coriander seeds with a 
 bay leaf; reduce to one half, add a little roux 
 and white wine, strain, skim, and use with 
 roast or boiled poultry. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE— Into a good butter sauce, 
 work some cut shrimps, lemon juice, cayenne 
 pepper and anchovy essence. Used with 
 boiled fish, fish croquettes, and many fish 
 entrees. 
 
 SORREL SAUCE— Into a Veloute sauce work a 
 pur£e of sorrel. Used with boiled beef. 
 
 SOUBISE SAUCE— Boiled onion pulp worked 
 into a Supreme sauce. Used with boiled mut- 
 ton . . . roast and braised black game and 
 grouse . . . boudins of poultry . . . braised legs 
 and necks of mutton . . . larded and braised 
 pheasants and partridges . . . larded and roast 
 neck of pork . . . larded and braised sweet- 
 breads. 
 
 SUPREME SAUCE— Make a rich Veloute sauce 
 with reduced chicken liquor, then finish with 
 pure cieam. Used with delicate entees such 
 as boudins of breasts of chicken, lamb sweet- 
 breads, and delicate white fleshed fish . . . 
 sauteed fillets of chicken, garnished with scal- 
 lops of tongue . . . boiled capon . . . boiled 
 prairie hen . . . sweetbread and chicken pat- 
 ties, and vol-au-vents. 
 
 SULTANA SAUCE — Into a good game sauce, 
 work some seedless raisins, simmer till tender, 
 
164 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 finish with port wine and use with roast game 
 in general. 
 
 TARTARE SAUCE — Into a mayonnaise sauce 
 work some finely chopped parsley, gherkins, 
 chives, capers and shallots. Used with breaded 
 and fried fillets of chicken and capon . . . frog 
 legs . . . sweetbreads . . . eels cut in finger 
 lengths . . . broiled salmon steak . . . fried calf 
 brains . . . fried tripe . . . fried butter fish. 
 
 TOULOUSE SAUCE— One pint of Hollandaise 
 sauce, half cup of white wine, half cup of 
 minced mushrooms, little chicken glaze, mix 
 together, then bring to the simmer, without 
 breaking or curdling. Used with boiled and 
 stewed poultry . . . sweetbreads. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE— Take equal quantities of 
 good stock and tomatoes, a veal and a ham 
 shank, a few herbs, sliced vegetables, and bay 
 leaves; two or three cloves of garlic are option- 
 al; boil all till vegetables are done, thicken with 
 roux, strain, add a little sugar. Used with 
 broiled steaks, chops, veal and pork chops i 
 pork tenderloin . . . fried sweetbreads and lamb 
 fries . . . broiled calf kidneys . . . fried chicken 
 breaded or in batter . . . epigramme of sweet- 
 breads . . . quenelles of turkey . . . grenadins 
 of veal . . . fried or broiled tripe . . . ham- 
 burger steaks . . . fried or broiled pigs' feet . . . 
 fried ciscoes . . . codfish steaks . . . fried had- 
 dock and halibut . . . filleted pike and muskal- 
 longe . . . fried smelts . . . broiled weakfish, 
 whitefish and trout . . . broiled and fried oys- 
 ters . . . venison chops and steaks, etc. etc. 
 and is used in conjunction with other sauces. 
 
 TORTUE OR TURTLE SAUCE— Equal parts 
 of tomato and espagnole sauces, into which 
 work some sliced mushrooms, garden herbs 
 and sherry wine, the grated rind and juice of a 
 lemon, and a few minced shallots. Used with 
 calf's head. 
 
 TRIANON SAUCE— Equal parts of Bearnaise 
 and reduced tomato sauces carefully blended 
 together. Used with broiled steaks, sweet- 
 breads, calf brains, etc. 
 
 VELOUTE SAUCE— Into some strong chicken 
 and veal broth boil a small piece of pickled 
 pork, a small bunch of garden herbs, a few car- 
 rots and onions, a little salt, sugar and pepper, 
 simmer slowly till the pork and vegetables are 
 done, then thicken with white roux; simmer 
 gently, taking off the fat and scum as it rises 
 till of a smooth velvet appearance; then strain 
 through a hair sieve. It is used as a basis for 
 other sauces. 
 
 VENITIENNE SAUCE— Court-bouillon thick- 
 ened with white roux, simmered and skimmed; 
 add chopped parsley and lemon juice; finish 
 with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used 
 with boiled fish. 
 
 VERJUICE SAUCE — Boil some green grapes in 
 
 espagnole till soft, then strain. Used with 
 roast ducks. 
 
 VERTE-PRE SAUCE— Into a Veloute or white 
 ravigote sauce work a puree of chives, spinach 
 and tarragon leaves. Used with boiled eels. 
 
 VINAIGRETTE SAUCE— Minced shallots, 
 chopped parsley, oil, vinegar and a little salt 
 and cayenne carefully blended together and 
 used with cold pigs' feet and pickled lamb 
 tongues. 
 
 YORKSHIRE SAUCE— Into some espagnole, 
 work a little currant jelly, port wine, orange 
 juice and finely shredded boiled orange peel. 
 Used with roast ham. 
 
 SAUERKRAUT — A preparation of cabbage (see 
 cabbage). 
 
 SCALLOPS— A broad flat shelled fish, white in 
 color, with pink gills. Used in many ways as 
 oysters; such as "sauteed ", "scalloped", "fried 
 in batter", "breaded and fried", "baked and 
 served on the half shell", "stewed" and in soup. 
 
 SCRAPPLE— Generally termed "Philadelphia 
 scrapple" is pigs' head brawn with corn meal 
 boiled together, then set in blocks, afterwards 
 cut in slices and fried for breakfast or supper. 
 
 SEA KALE — A vegetable resembling in appear- 
 ance a head of celery. It is cooked in lengths 
 like asparagus, boiled and served with butter, 
 Hollandaise or Espagnole sauces; also after be- 
 ing boiled and cooled, is cut up and mixed 
 with endive and lettuce and used as a salad with 
 French dressing. 
 
 SEMOLINA — Name given to a preparation of 
 wheat like Farina. It is used in the making of 
 puddings; as a soup and sauce thickening; also 
 mixed with pressed bread in the preparation of 
 sausages, as it takes up more fat and water. 
 
 SHAD — Name of one of our best fish. To be 
 broiled it should be split, back and rib bones 
 removed, seasoned with olive oil, salt and pep- 
 per, then placed between the wire hinged 
 broiler, cooked over a medium fire, served with 
 maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with pars- 
 ley and quartered lemon. 
 
 PLANKED SHAD— The fish cleaned, split, 
 bones removed, made fast to the plank, cooked 
 under a salamander or in a quick oven; served 
 on the plank, with maitre d'hotel butter. 
 
 BAKED SHAD— Take a full sized shad, clean 
 trim, score the sides, wipe dry, then season 
 with salt; place them in a buttered pan and 
 cover the fish with small pieces of butter; put 
 in a medium oven and cook for fifteen minutes, 
 then pour over the fish a small ladle of stock, 
 some tabasco sauce and a cupful of cream; re- 
 turn to oven and bake till nicely done; then lift 
 the fish on to the serving platter, garnish with 
 maitre d'hotel potatoes, pour the strained and 
 skimmed sauce over the fish and serve. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 165 
 
 BOILED SHAD— Clean, trim and score the 
 sides of the fish, place on the drainer of fish 
 kettle, cover the fish with boiling water, add a 
 little salt, simmer till done (about thirty min- 
 utes), lift, drain; serve with either caper or lob- 
 ster sauce, and garnish with small boiled pota- 
 toes. 
 
 FRIED SHAD— Fillet the fish into serving por- 
 tions, season with salt and pepper, dip into 
 beaten eggs containing flour enough to make a 
 soft batter, then fry a delicate golden color in 
 deep fat; drain; serve with chips and lemon. 
 
 BAKED STUFFED SHAD— Scale and trim the 
 fish, split down the belly and withdraw the 
 bones; season with salt and pepper; stuff with 
 forcemeat made of a pound of whitefish 
 pounded in the mortar with half a pound of 
 soaked and squeezed dry bread, quarter pound 
 of butter, four yolks of raw eggs, juice of a 
 lemon, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to 
 taste. When stuffed, sew up the opening, 
 score the sides, place in buttered pan, brush 
 over with melted butter, bake till done; serve 
 whole or in portions with maitre d'hotel sauce 
 and a garnish of fancy potatoes. 
 
 SHAD ROE — Keep the roes whole, lay them in 
 cold water for an hour, trim, wipe dry; then 
 season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry in 
 lard; serve with chip potatoes, a slice of bacon, 
 and quartered lemon . . . Also boiled and served 
 with cream sauce and garnished with Hollan- 
 daise potatoes . . . Breaded whole if small, or 
 blanched, split, then breaded and fried; served 
 with Parisienne potatoes, lemon and parsley. . . 
 Broiled and served with bacon, garnished with 
 Julienne potatoes and lemon . . . Made into cro- 
 quettes and served with lobster sauce . . . Also 
 blanched, mixed with Hollandaise sauce and 
 scalloped. 
 
 SHADDOCK— A dessert fruit from the West 
 Indies (see grape fruit). 
 
 SHALLOT — Name of a small onion, very mild 
 in flavor. Used in the preparation of delicate 
 sauces and soups. 
 
 SHEEPSHEAD — Name of one of our seafish, so 
 called on account of the shape of its mouth be- 
 ing like that of a sheep; also its having two 
 similar rows of teeth. It is boiled and served 
 with caper sauce and garnished with Hollan- 
 daise potatoes . . . Baked and served with pi- 
 quante sauce, garnished with Parisienne pota- 
 toes . . . Broiled and served with Venitienne 
 butter, garnished with Saratoga chips . . . Sau- 
 teed and served with brown Italian sauce, 
 garnished with Duchesse potatoes . . . Braised 
 and served with Creole sauce, garnished with 
 small potato croquettes. 
 
 SHERRY — Name of a Spanish wine. Used with 
 dinner service, in making cobblers, jellies, 
 sauces, etc. 
 
 SHORTBREAD— A name given to a sort of cake, 
 much used by the Scotch people. 
 
 SHRIMP — Name of a thin shelled fish, used gen- 
 erally after being boiled, trimmed and shelled; 
 always to be had in cans. The Barataria shrimp 
 in cans are as good as can be purchased. Made 
 into salads, sauces, omelets, patties, bouche^s, 
 croquettes, in the preparation of appetizers, etc. 
 
 SMELT — Name of a small delicate fish which 
 has the flavor of cucumbers. To be cooked is 
 drawn from the gills, seasoned with salt, rolled 
 in flour and sauteed with butter, or breaded 
 and fried . . . Broiled; or run on skewers and 
 broiled. 
 
 SNIPE — A small game bird; may be roasted, 
 broiled, fried, made into boudins, pies, galan- 
 tines, salmis. 
 
 SOLES — Name of a delicate flat fish. As there 
 are few to be had in the United States the 
 flounder and plaice is substituted. For recipes 
 of cooking, see Flounder. 
 
 SORREL — Name of a vegetable. Used in soups, 
 sauces; served plain or mixed with spinach as a 
 vegetable; pureed as spinach, and used as an 
 accompaniment to veal, pork, fried sweet- 
 breads, brains, etc. 
 
 SOUFFLE — Name given to a very light pasty 
 preparation of meats, or sweets; of the omelet 
 order. 
 
 SOUPS — See heading of any meat, etc., wanted; 
 also "consommes". 
 
 SPAGHETTI— An Italian solid paste like maca- 
 roni. Used in every way like macaroni; for 
 recipes of which, see "Macaroni". 
 
 SPINACH — A vegetable good for the stomach, 
 because not only its own properties are ab- 
 sorbed but the life sustaining qualities of that 
 with which it is prepared: for spinach from 
 Greenwhich plain boiled and eaten as a greens 
 may be all right; but to those who live at 
 hotels, clubs, etc., it is prepared as a puree, 
 richly endowed with cream, butter, gravies, 
 etc., well seasoned with salt, pepper and NUT- 
 MEG; and when used either as a vegetable, 
 garniture, in an omelet, or as an accompani- 
 ment to roast or boiled ham, it is good. 
 
 SQUAB — Name given to a young pigeon. For 
 recipes, see "Pigeon". 
 
 SQUASH-- A vegetable of the melon order, 
 peeled, cut in pieces, plain boiled or mashed, 
 then served as a vegetable; cut in slices and 
 baked or steamed, then the pulp removed, 
 mashed and used instead of pumpkin for pies. 
 
 SQUIRREL— Either the red, gray or black, may 
 be practically used in all the ways of spring 
 chickens; and are relished too. 
 
 STILTON — Name of a prime English cheese 
 (see "Cheese"). 
 
1 66 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 STRAWBERRIES — One of the choice table 
 fruits eaten with cream and sugar; crushed and 
 mixed into ices; made into tarts and pies, jel- 
 lies, shortcakes, meringues, charlottes, etc. 
 STURGEON— Name of a large fish that is sold 
 skinned as catfish are. Used baked and served 
 with Remoulade sauce . . . larded as a frican- 
 deau and served with bacon and mushroom 
 sauce . . . braised with herbs and vegetables 
 and served with the strained and skimmed 
 braise . . . broiled in steaks and served with 
 piquante sauce . . . stuffed, baked and served 
 with Bourgignotte sauce . . . boiled and served 
 with Genevoise and Hollandaise sauces. 
 
 STERLET — Name given to the young sturgeon. 
 
 SUCCOTASH— Name given to a combination of 
 cooked corn and lima beans. Used as a vege- 
 table. 
 
 SWEETBREADS— The name given to two suc- 
 culent pieces of flesh of the calf, ox and sheep, 
 that adhere to the throat and heart. Before 
 using in the preparation of dishes, they must 
 first be blanched, trimmed and skinned. 
 
 SWEETBREADS WITH SPINACH— Lard the 
 sweetbreads with seasoned strips of pork, ar- 
 range them in a brasiere with bacon, herbs, 
 vegetables and stock; when done, take out; 
 serve on a bed of spinach puree, with the 
 strained and skimmed braise poured over them. 
 
 SCALLOPED SWEETBREADS— Sweetbreads 
 and button mushrooms cut into dice, sauteed 
 with butter, surplus butter then poured off, 
 moistened with Veloute sauce, filled into scal- 
 lop shells or dishes; sifted breadcrumbs and a 
 little Parmesan cheese strewn on top; baked a 
 delicate brown and served. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS — Sweet- 
 breads cut in even sized pieces; button mush- 
 rooms sauteed, added to the sweetbreads; moist- 
 ened with Veloute sauce, simmered; served 
 within a fancy piped border of mashed potatoes. 
 
 FRIED SWEETBREADS, COLBERT SAUCE 
 — The sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, dipped in butter, then in beaten 
 eggs and sifted BREAD crumbs, fried a deli- 
 cate brown with butter; served on fancy toast 
 with Colbert sauce. 
 
 BRAISED SWEETBREADS WITH VEGE- 
 TABLES— The sweetbreads larded, braised 
 with herbs, vegetables and stock, taken up 
 when done, the braise strained and skimmed; 
 then used to moisten a macedoine or jardiniere 
 of vegetables; served, the sweetbreads on fancy 
 toast, the vegetables around. 
 
 FRIED STUFFED SWEETBREADS— Split the 
 sweetbreads, then spread it on both sides with 
 a D'Uxelles sauce containing minced mush- 
 rooms and onions, then double bread and fry; 
 serve with a rich brown sauce containing 
 sherry wine. 
 
 CASSEROLE OF SWEETBREADS— Line the 
 casserole with boiled rice, arrange the interior 
 with lamb sweetbreads in fricassee, bake and 
 serve in the casserole. 
 CROUSTADES OF SWEETBREADS — Into 
 the fancy croustade cases (now to be purchased 
 by the dozen or barrel), serve the fricassee of 
 sweetbreads above. 
 BLANQUETTE OF SWEETBREADS — Slice 
 the sweetbreads into even slices with corre- 
 sponding slices of truffles, moisten with a su- 
 preme sauce; served within a border of well 
 cooked rice grains. 
 EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS — Lard, 
 braise and glaze one half of the quantity of 
 sweetbreads required, the other half to be 
 breaded and fried a golden color; place one of 
 each against fancy toast; serve with tomato 
 sauce. 
 CURRY OF SWEETBREADS — Beef sweet- 
 breads are as good as any for this. Take the 
 breads, soak for two hours in warm water, boil 
 till tender, clean and trim them, then press be- 
 tween plates till cold; slice them and fry with 
 butter a golden color; then fry sliced onions, 
 add flour to form a roux, moisten with the 
 strained and skimmed stock the sweeetbreads 
 were boiled in, add curry powder to taste, sim- 
 mer, skim; serve within a border of well boiled 
 grains of rice. 
 SWEETBREADS WITH KIDNEYS — Take 
 large veal sweetbreads, blanch, cool, press and 
 trim them, then lard them with strips of truffles. 
 Beat to a froth .he whites of three eggs, into 
 it then mix some finely chopped pistachio nuts; 
 roll the truffled sweetbreads in the egg, then in- 
 sert in buttered paper cases, bake till of a nice 
 color, remove the paper, place the sweetbread 
 on a circle of buttered toast, then flank it with 
 broiled lamb or sheep kidneys, and serve with 
 port wine sauce. 
 MEDALLIONS OF SWEETBREAD — Take 
 smooth skinned tomatoes, cut them in halves, 
 place cut side down in baking pan and dry them 
 down in a medium oven; then place a slice of 
 sweetbread in each half, put the two halves to- 
 gether, pin them with a toothpick, then bread 
 and fry them, drain, remove the pick; serve on 
 circles of toast and Supreme sauce. 
 LARDED SWEETBREADS, TOULOUSE 
 GARNISH— Take veal sweetbreads, lard them 
 with seasoned strips of bacon, braise till done 
 and glazy with herbs, vegetables and stock; 
 serve on circles of toast with Toulouse garnish 
 around, (see Garnishes). 
 CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS — Take 
 the trimmings of sweetbreads and some boiled 
 sweetbreads from the ox, cut them up very fine, 
 adding some minced mushrooms and shallots, 
 then boil them down thick with Veloute sauce, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 167 
 
 (a little chopped parsley may be added if de- 
 sired) turn out into a buttered pan, smooth, 
 cover with a sheet of buttered paper and set 
 away to get thoroughly cold; then make up into 
 croquettes, or form into small cutlets, bread, 
 fry and serve with a white Italian sauce, or 
 garnish with peas in a Veloute sauce, or with 
 some flageolet beans in a Madeira sauce. . . 
 KROMESKIES OF SWEETBREADS are 
 made of the croquette mixture shaped like a 
 core, then rolled round with thin slices of boiled 
 bacon, dipped in batter and fried. . . RIS- 
 SOLES OF SWEETBREADS are made from 
 the croquette mixture shaped like a finger, then 
 enclosed with a thin piece of pie paste and fried. 
 
 BROILED SWEETBREADS — Prepare and 
 trim the sweetbreads, then season with salt and 
 pepper, ron in melted butter, then in flour, and 
 broil a delicate brown; serve on toast with or 
 without a strip of bacon and some maitre d'ho- 
 tel sauce. 
 
 ROAST SWEETBREADS — Prepare and trim 
 veal sweetbreads, season with salt and pepper, 
 roll in melted butter, then in flour, place in a 
 buttered baking pan, roast gently till of a deli- 
 cate color, then serve on a circle of buttered 
 toast with Supreme or Madeira sauces. 
 
 PATTIES OF SWEETBREADS— Take the pre- 
 pared veal sweetbreads and cut them into small 
 dice, adding a small quantity of iced and fried 
 button mushrooms, moisten them with either 
 Veloute, Italian or Madeira sauces, simmer, 
 then fill into patty cases . . .VOL-AU-VENTS 
 are the same thing but much larger. . . BOU- 
 CHEES are the same thing but smaller than 
 the patty case. 
 
 SALPICON OF SWEETBREADS— Take the 
 prepared veal sweetbreads and cut them into 
 medium-sized dice, adding also the tops of small 
 button mushrooms, small diced pieces of cooked 
 red tongue, and some small diced truffles; 
 moisten the whole with a white Italian sauce, 
 simmer, then serve in fancy cases. 
 
 BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS — Take 
 the prepared veal sweetbreads and slice them 
 into squares or circles with an equal number 
 of slices of parboiled bacon, run them on a 
 skewer alternately, with a button mushroom; 
 seasonwith salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon, 
 then dip in beaten eggs, then roll in sifted 
 breadcrumbs, and fry a delicate brown in but- 
 ter; serve with Italian sauce. 
 
 FRIED SWEETBREADS— Take the prepared 
 veal sweetbreads and cut them into slices, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then fry 
 a delicate brown with butter; take up and 
 moisten with a little Madeira sauce, just enough 
 to keep them hot in the bain-marie; place within 
 a border of veal forcemeat piped on the dish 
 
 with a bag and tube, then pour Perigueux sauce 
 over the sweetbreads and serve. 
 
 SCRAMBLED SWEETBREADS WITH EGGS 
 — Take all the trimmings of the sweetbreads 
 which may have accumulated from the two or 
 three previous days, cut them into small neat 
 pieces, then scramble them with eggs, after- 
 ward moistening them with white Italian sauce; 
 serve on buttered toast. 
 
 SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN BUTTER— 
 Slices of the prepared veal sweetbreads fried 
 a golden brown with plenty of good butter; 
 taken up and laid on toast, the butter then 
 frothed up and seasoned with lemon juice, or 
 tarragon vinegar, browned well, and poured 
 over the sweetbreads. 
 
 SWEETBREAD SOUP- -Mince some ham and 
 onions, blanch and slice some sweetbreads, add 
 a bunch of herbs and saut6 the whole gently 
 with butter for an hour, add flour to form a 
 paste, then rub the whole through the tamis, 
 make hot again and bring to the soup consist- 
 ency with a combined veal and chicken broth, 
 season with salt, white pepper, a little sugar; 
 serve with croutons. 
 
 TAPIOCA— A form of starch obtained from the 
 root of a plant; used in the making of puddings 
 and jellies; also in soups and custards. 
 
 TARRAGON— An aromatic herb; used in soups, 
 sauces, and as a flavoring to vinegar. 
 
 TARTARIC ACID — A powder obtained from 
 cream of tartar; used in conjunction with it to 
 form baking powder. 
 
 TEAL — Name of the duck next best to the can- 
 vas back; delicious when broiled, roasted or in a 
 salmis. 
 
 TERRAPIN— Name of the most costly of the tor- 
 toise family, having to be purchased by the inch, 
 the diamond back being the best. To kill it, 
 plunge into boiling water and let it remain 
 there with the lid on for fifteen minutes, then 
 take it out and peel the skin off the back and re- 
 move the nails from the claws; remove the un- 
 der shell by cutting with a sharp knife where it 
 joins the upper one, then remove the sand bag 
 and gall bladder; save the blood, and remove 
 all the meat and eggs; cut off the head and use 
 it and the shell for soups; keep the meat, 
 eggs and the green fat found at the shoulders in 
 water till wanted for use. 
 
 BAKED TERRAPIN— Take the terrapin meat, 
 eggs and fat, put into the upper shell, moisten 
 with a little Madeira sauce, add the juice of a 
 lemon, season with salt, pepper, butter, a glass 
 of Madeira wine; cover with a sheet of buttered 
 paper, bake till done and serve in the shell. 
 
 TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE— Terrapin 
 meat simmered in butter with the liquor ob- 
 tained from the cutting up; flour added to form 
 a roux, then moistened with boiling cream, till 
 
iG8 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 like a fricassee; seasoned with salt, pepper and 
 mace; finish by adding the eggs, simmer, then 
 add sherry wine. 
 TOMATOES— One of the best of the vegetable 
 fruits. Used in making pies, preserves, soups, 
 sauces, salads, as a vegetable, baked and stuffed as 
 a garnish; used as an accompaniment to steaks 
 when broiled, as a pickle, and in the prepara- 
 tion of piccalili, as an ingredient to chutney; 
 and used by the cook in more ways than any 
 other fruit vegetable known. 
 TRIFLE — Name given to a combination of sponge 
 cake, sherry wine, preserves, custard, and whip- 
 ped cream. 
 TRIPE — The first stomach of the ox. Used after 
 being prepared by the butchers. It is easily di- 
 gested, contains good nutrients. It may be 
 broiled and served with melted butter . . . Fried 
 either after breading, or dipping in fritter bat- 
 ter and served with fried onions or with a puree 
 of onions in either brown or white sauce . . . 
 Stewed plain with onions in white sauce . . . 
 Stewed with tomatoes, a clove of garlic, red 
 peppers, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, sliced 
 onions and meat gravy. This is called ' 'in CRE- 
 OLE style" . . . Stewed in Espagnole sauce with 
 an addition of fried onions . . . Stewed down 
 rich in tomato sauce . . . Stewed in a sauce 
 Poulette and served with toast . . . Baked in a 
 rich white onion sauce . . . Grilled and served 
 with tartar sauce . . . Curried and served with 
 fancy croutons . . . Made into a fricassee by 
 stewing in a sauce Veloute . . . Laid out in 
 lengths, the inside spread with sausage meat, 
 rolled up into cannelons, baked and basted with 
 tomato sauce; served with some of the sauce 
 and garnished with sausage balls . . . Sauteed 
 and served with Bordelaise sauce . . . Sim- 
 mered down till nearly dry with a little white 
 broth, chopped parsley, and strips of lean ham, 
 then moistened with a sauce Toulouse, finished 
 with a few gherkins finely minced. 
 TROUT — One of the most delicate flavored fish, 
 LAKE TROUT, SALMON TROUT and the 
 BROOK TROUT. The delicate brook trout 
 is either broiled or fried, and served with a 
 maitre d'hotel sauce . . . The lake and sal- 
 mon trout may be cut in steaks and broiled; 
 served with a Hollandaise sauce . . . Cut in 
 steaks and fried, served with a slice of bacon; 
 garnish with fancy potatoes . . . Boiled and 
 served with Anchovy sauce . . . Baked and 
 served with Italian sauce. 
 BAKED SALMON TROUT— Scale and cleanse 
 the fish, score the sides where the portion is to 
 be cut, rub the scores with mixed salt, pepper 
 and ground herbs, lay in buttered pan, bake 
 and baste with butter and court bouillon; when 
 done, lift off gently on to the steam table; serve 
 in portions with either Genevoise or Espagnole 
 sauces, garnish with small potato croquettes. 
 
 SALMON TROUT SAUTE— Cut the fish into 
 steaks, season with salt and pepper. Fry some 
 slices of bacon a delicate brown, then roll the 
 fish in flour and fry in the bacon fat till of a 
 golden brown; take up, add flour to the pan, 
 stir, moisten with boiling fish broth, add the 
 juice of a lemon, and a little tomato catchup, 
 strain over the fish in a clean sautoir, simmer 
 for a few minutes, then serve with some of the 
 sauce and a strip of the bacon on the top. 
 BAKED STUFFED TROUT— Take the lake 
 trout, trim and scale it, stuff with a fish force- 
 meat, sew up the belly, score the sides in por- 
 tion cuts, season with salt and pepper, brush 
 with butter, dredge with flour, place in a but- 
 tered pan, bake and baste till done; serve with 
 an anchovied Espagnole sauce, garnish with 
 Duchesse potatoes. 
 BROILED SALMON TROUT— Take the whole 
 sides freed from bones, moisten with olive oil, 
 season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, 
 broil well done over a clear fire; serve in por- 
 tions with maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with 
 Parisenne potatoes, lemon and parsley. 
 SALMON TROUT BAKED WITH TOMA- 
 TOES — Take the sides of fish freed from bones, 
 season with salt and pepper, dust with paprika, 
 dredge with flour, arrange in a buttered baking 
 pan, cover with canned tomatoes, add a minced 
 green pepper, bake and baste till done; serve 
 with the tomatoes, and garnish with Victoria 
 potatoes. 
 FILLETED TROUT FRIED, WITH BACON— 
 Take the sides of salmon trout freed from bone, 
 cut them into portion pieces, season with salt 
 and pepper, have ready some frying oil, very 
 hot. Make a batter of beaten eggs and a very 
 little flour, dip the fillets in the batter, fry in 
 the oil; serve with a strip of bacon on the fish, 
 garnish with Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley. 
 
 TROUT STEAK, SAUCE TRIANON— Take 
 the centre cut steaks of salmon trout, season 
 with salt and pepper, moisten with olive oil, 
 dredge with flour, broil over a clear fire, bast- 
 ing with butter; serve with a sauce Trianon 
 poured around. 
 
 LAKE TROUT FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE— 
 Scale and trim the trout, cut in steaks, season 
 with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, fry in 
 bacon fat to a golden color; serve with tomato 
 sauce poured around. Or may be served with a 
 strip of bacon, garnished with Reitz potatoes. 
 
 BOILED TROUT, SHRIMP SAUCE— Lake or 
 Salmon trout, scaled and trimmed, scored in 
 portion cuts, placed on the drainer of fish ket- 
 tle, covered with cold water containing a bunch 
 of garden herbs, a little salt and vinegar, 
 brought to the boil, skimmed, simmered till 
 done, lifted up and drained; served with shrimp 
 sauce, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 169 
 
 BAKED TROUT STEAKS— Take the lake trout, 
 scale and trim, cut in steaks, arrange in but- 
 tered pan, cover with Allemande sauce, bake 
 gently till done; serve garnished with Villa- 
 geoise potatoes. 
 
 BRAISED TROUT, MATELOTE— Scale and 
 trim the fish, score the sides in portion cuts, 
 braise with bacon, herbs, and fish broth; when 
 done, take up, strain and skim the braise, glaze 
 the portions with it; serve garnished with a 
 Matelote. 
 
 BROOK TROUT WITH QUENELLES— Clean 
 and trim the fish, stuff with a fish farce, ar- 
 range in a well buttered pan, season with salt 
 and pepper, add a few mixed herbs and a glass 
 of white wine with a little fish broth; bake 
 about fifteen minutes, well basting with the 
 liquor; then take up, strain the residue into 
 some Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim; then 
 add sliced truffles and mushroom, some 
 blanched oysters and a little lobster coral; serve 
 with the oysters as a garnish and the sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 BROILED BROOK TROUT— Scale and trim 
 the fish; draw it through the gills, then stuff it 
 through the mouth with butter mixed with 
 finely minced sweet herbs, slightly score the 
 sides, season with salt and pepper, pass the 
 fish through either melted butter or olive oil; 
 broil gently without breaking the skin; serve 
 with Poivrade sauce. 
 
 TRUFFLES — Name of an aromatic tuber. On 
 the European continent are served baked, 
 boiled, gratinated, broiled, stewed in wine, 
 etc. But on account of their very high 
 price in this country, the cook uses them in 
 sauces, forcemeats, omelets, salads and turkey 
 stuffing. 
 
 TUNNY "THON MARINE"— As it generally 
 appears on the bill of fare, under the heading 
 of hors d'ouevrs or appetizers, is the name of a 
 fish of the appearance and flavor of Spanish 
 mackerel. It is generally imported in tins, pre- 
 pared in olive oil. 
 
 TURKEY — One of the native American poultry 
 birds found wild in Mexico. And the wild bird 
 is as superior to the domestic one as the can- 
 vas back duck is to the domestic duck. 
 
 BROILED SPRING TURKEY— Plump young 
 birds, singed, split down the back, breast and 
 back bones removed, thigh bone snapped, the 
 sides then cut in halves; season with salt and 
 pepper, brush with butter or olive oil, broil a 
 golden brown; serve on slices of buttered toast 
 and garnish with two roast mushrooms on the 
 bird, flanked with slices of tomatoes breaded 
 and fried, a little maitre d'hotel butter sprink- 
 led over the whole. 
 
 STEWED SPRING TURKEY, SOUTHERN 
 STYLE— Take young plump birds singed, 
 
 drawn and washed, cut into joints, leaving the 
 the leg and wing bone a little exposed. Place 
 the pieces in a baking pan, season with chili 
 pepper and salt, sprinkle with melted butter 
 and roast slowly till brown; then take up into a 
 sautoir, add flour, shake together, moisten with 
 chicken or turkey stock, bring to the boil, skim, 
 then add the grated rind and juice of an orange, 
 simmer till the bird is tender. Take one pound 
 of raw ham and one medium sized onion, cut 
 in small squares, fry them lightly with plenty 
 of butter in the sautoir, then add a pound cf 
 well washed rice, moisten with half a gallon of 
 chicken or turkey stock, place on the cover and 
 let simmer till rice is well done. To serve: 
 place the rice neatly on serving platter, the 
 portion of bird on the rice with a croquette 
 frill in it; or on the wing or leg bone; pour 
 some of the gravy over the whole and flank the 
 rice with small roasted potatoes. 
 
 BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE— Take 
 
 very large plump birds, singe, draw, wash, 
 truss them with the legs forced well into the 
 body, then boil them with a piece of salt pork, 
 carrots, onions and celery, for about three 
 hours; take up, and serve portions with plenty 
 of oyster sauce poured over. A well made 
 celery sauce is also very appropriate. 
 ROAST SPRING TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE 
 — Take young plump birds, singed, drawn, 
 washed and trussed (not stuffed). Roast about 
 an hour, well basting with butter. Serve in 
 portions with a good brown oyster sauce, (see 
 Sauces). 
 
 ROAST TURKEY, STUFFED —Take plump 
 young birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with a 
 mixture of white bread soaked and squeezed 
 dry, seasoned with salt, pepper, mixed herbs, 
 melted butter and yolks of eggs. Truss with 
 the legs well into the body; season the bird with 
 pepper and salt, roast for about two hours, wel 
 basting during roasting; serve portions with the 
 stuffing under the meat, and a dish of cranberry 
 sauce or jelly separate . . . The turkey may 
 also be stuffed with mashed sweet potatoes . . . 
 Again with veal forcemeat containing a liberal 
 quantity of peeled boiled chestnuts, then served 
 with chestnut sauce; that is, with boiled chest- 
 nuts peeled, rubbed through the tamis, and the 
 puree thus obtained mixed into the turkey 
 gravy . . . They may also be stuffed with an 
 oyster dressing and served with a brown oyster 
 sauce . . . They may also be stuffed with stewed 
 truffles and served with Perigueux sauce, and 
 garnished with quenelles of poultry . . . Also 
 stuffed with pork sausage meat in which has 
 been mixed some boiled and peeled chestnuts, 
 and served with a Chipolata garnish, (see 
 Garnishes) . . . Also stuffed with veal forcemeat 
 and served with a Financiere garnish. In 
 
170 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 England the common way of the people is to 
 stuff the turkey with ordinary dressing as given 
 above, and to serve it with roast pork sausages, 
 and a slice of boiled salt leg of pork, always 
 handing round sticks of fine white celery. 
 
 BOILED STUFFED TURKEY— Take young 
 plump birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with veal 
 forcemeat; trussed with the legs well into the 
 body; boil it till tender with a carrot, onion, 
 celery, and a salted ox tongue; serve with a 
 couple of slices of the tongue on the bird, the 
 stuffing underneath, and a sauce made from the 
 liquor it was boiled in poured around ... It 
 may also be stuffed with grated breadcrumbs 
 mixed with minced and boiled celery, raw eggs, 
 salt, pepper and butter, and served with Hol- 
 landaise sauce ... Or with egg sauce, Veloute 
 sauce, parsley sauce . . . Also garnished with a 
 slice of boiled ham and a spoonful of spinach 
 puree. 
 
 BONED TURKEY— This dish is always served 
 cold, either plain or with aspic or in a galan- 
 tine. It is a favorite with ball parties, and 
 other luncheon or supper gatherings. Take 
 two birds, one smaller than the other. Remove 
 the head, feet and wings, then split the skin 
 down the spinal column; remove the flesh with- 
 out breaking through the skin, and leave the 
 carcass with entrails entire. Lay the birds out 
 on the table skin side down. On the larger on 
 place a column of pork sausage or veal forcee 
 meat down the breast centre; on that, lay a- 
 column of cooked tongue, and on either side of 
 it a smaller column of pickled belly of cooked 
 pork. Season with salt, pepper and thyme. 
 Remove the flesh from the skin of the smaller 
 bird and place the white meat over the dark of 
 the stuffed bird, and the dark over the white 
 meat. Then draw the two sides together, sew 
 it up into a good shape; then sew it into a cloth 
 and boil till tender (about two hours). Take 
 up and drain, then place it between two 
 boards; put a weight on top and let become 
 thoroughly cold; then remove the cloth, trim 
 the bird, wipe clean with a hot wet cloth, glaze 
 it and cut portions to order. If to place on a 
 table whole, then decorate the glazing with 
 fancy piped butter, and take off the first slice 
 ... It may also be roasted instead of being in 
 a cloth and boiled ... To make a GALANTINE 
 OF TURKEY, take the bird when the cloth is 
 removed, have a galantine mold nicely decor- 
 ated with aspic jelly and fancy forms of green 
 peas, white and yolk of hard boiled egg, mace- 
 doine of vegetables; then fill the mold with slices 
 of the boned bird, placing the edges downwards 
 (not one on top of the other), then fill up with 
 limpid aspic jelly, allowing the jelly to get be- 
 tween each slice of turkey, so that in serving 
 there is no cutting to be done, simply remov- 
 ing the slice with the jelly adhering. When 
 
 serving, place at either end of the dish a small 
 quantity of aspic and currant jelly. 
 BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY— Slices of cold 
 cooked turkey freed from skin, a can of good 
 button mushrooms also sliced. Put the two 
 into a rich Veloute sauce, bring to the simmer, 
 skim, add juice of a lemon; served within a 
 border of green peas, or grains of rice, or finely 
 shred noodles. 
 BRAISED TURKEY— Singe and truss the bird 
 without stuffing as for roasting; then roast, 
 quickly basting with butter to get on a nice 
 brown color. Take up as soon as browned, 
 and place it into a deep sautoir with a few 
 slices of veal at the bottom; cover the bird with 
 slices of fat bacon, then fill up with good white 
 stock; add a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt, 
 then simmer till done; take up the bird, reduce 
 the stock to half glaze, skim, strain and serve 
 with the bird. Garnish with small potato cro- 
 quettes. 
 STUFFED YOUNG TURKEY LEGS— Cut off 
 the leg and thigh, thus making four portions 
 from each bird. You can stuff the other part 
 of the bird and roast in the usual way, as 
 everybody wants a slice of the breast . . . Re- 
 move the bone from the leg cuts, season them 
 with salt and pepper, then stuff the opening 
 with a white forcemeat in which is incorpor- 
 ated minced ham, truffles and mushrooms; roll 
 them into shape, sew the ends, wrap each one 
 in a piece of bacon, then boil gently in white 
 stock till tender; take up and cool; then remove 
 the sewing; meantime reduce the stock till of a 
 sauce consistency; place the legs in again, to 
 reheat, then take up and roll in fresh grated 
 breadcrumbs; place in a buttered pan, sprinkle 
 with butter, place in oven and get on a good 
 color; serve on a bed of boiled rice with the 
 sauce poured around. 
 CREAMED COLLOPS OF TURKEY— Slices 
 of cold cooked turkey freed from skin, cut into 
 neat thin slices; then place into a Supreme 
 sauce and simmer tor ten minutes; serve on a 
 slice of toast, sprinkle the top with finely 
 minced truffles and lean ham mixed together; 
 garnish the sides with fancy croutons spread 
 with foie-gras or liver paste. 
 HASHED TURKEY WITH EGG— For this 
 dish, buy a big old gobbler weighing twenty 
 pounds or so, truss as for boiling, then steam it 
 till tender; when cooled, remove the skin, and 
 take off every particle of meat, cut it into very 
 small dice, moisten it with Veloute sauce, bring 
 it to the simmer; serve on buttered toast with 
 a poached egg on top. 
 TURKEY CROQUETTES— Take the preceding 
 recipe, and when brought to the simmer, work 
 in some well boiled rice, so as to thoroughly 
 stiffen it; then pour into a buttered pan, cover 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 171 
 
 with oiled paper and let become cold, then 
 shape it into the shape desired; bread, fry and 
 serve with a white Italian sauce. 
 
 TURKEY PATTIES AND VOL-AU-VENTS— 
 Take the cold white meat of cooked turkey, cut 
 it into small dice, season with salt and nutmeg, 
 then moisten it with a rich cream sauce (made 
 with cream); fill into patty or vol-au-vent cases 
 and serve. 
 
 SALPICON OF TURKEY — Take cold cooked 
 turkey freed from skin, three-fifths; lean cooked 
 ham, one-fifth; truffles and mushrooms in equal 
 parts to make the last fifth; cut the whole into 
 neat small dice, moisten with a Supreme sauce, 
 simmer for ten minutes, then serve in fancy 
 paper cases. 
 
 CROUSTADES OF TURKEY— Take the salpi- 
 con of the preceding recipe and fill into fancy 
 croustade cases and serve. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF TURKEY WINGS— Take the 
 middle joints of the wings, pick out all the dark 
 feathers, trim the edges, singe them, boil them 
 very slowly with a heart of celery, salt and a 
 few blades of mace; when tender take up; make 
 a good white sauce from the boiling liquor, 
 skim and strain it over the wings in another sau- 
 toir, then add some good button mushrooms cut 
 into slices, bring all to the simmer and serve 
 with a border of finely cut noodles. 
 
 TURKEY SALADS AND SOUPS ARE MADE 
 THE SAME AS THE RECIPES GIVEN 
 WITH CHICKEN. 
 
 TURNIPS — A nutritious vegetable both white 
 and yellow; used plain boiled or boiled and 
 mashed; cut into shapes and used as a garnish; 
 or stewed in a cream sauce and used either as a 
 garniture or as a vegetable; they are very use- 
 ful in soups. The young green turnip tops 
 also make a most excellent vegetable. Young 
 white turnips of an even size may be peeled, 
 the inside scooped out, steamed till done, then 
 used as a receptacle for green peas, etc, and 
 served as a vegetable, the parts scooped out be- 
 ing used next day as a vegetable; also the tur- 
 nip can be used for a nice entree by taking 
 white turnips all of an even size, peel them, 
 cut off a lid, scoop out the inside, fill the space 
 with minced mutton (thus using up your mut-« 
 ton trimmings), replace the lid, arrange in a 
 shallow sautoir, moisten with white stock and 
 simmer till tender; serve with a good gravy 
 poured over them. 
 
 TURTLE— To kill it, hang it up by the hind fins, 
 cut off the head and let it bleed overnight into a 
 bucket; then lay it on its back, cut off the fins, 
 then the under shell, remove the entrails and 
 gall; save the eggs and green fat, the white 
 flesh, and the red meat, and the fins. The shell 
 is then sawn into pieces and boiled with the 
 head to make the stock for turtle soup; the 
 
 green fat is served with the soups, the white 
 and dark meat used for entrees and steaks, etc. 
 The white meat may be used in all the ways 
 given in the recipes for veal. The red meat in 
 all the ways given for beef. The fins are gen- 
 erally stewed in any of the ways applicable to 
 fowl. 
 
 GREEN TURTLE SOUP— Place in a large and 
 deep sautoir half a pound of butter, three 
 pounds of sliced raw ham, the meat from three 
 shins of beef and three knuckles of veal, two old 
 fowls, a dozen cloves, four blades of mace, a 
 handful of parsley roots, a bouquet of parsley 
 tied up with shallots, thyme, green onions and 
 two bay leaves, a pint of Madeira wine and a 
 gallon of good stock; boil this down sharply to 
 a half glaze, then fill up with stock, adding the 
 turtle head, fins, shell and the coarse meat, 
 turnips, carrots, onions and a head of celery; 
 simmer for six hours, then work in a roux to 
 the consistency of thin sauce, boil and skim till 
 smooth and velvety, then strain off into another 
 sautoir. . . Make a puree of herbs by boiling 
 together in a quart of consomme, one-third of 
 sweet basil, and the other two-thirds of herbs 
 to be used are equal quantities of savory, 
 thyme and marjoram, a good handful of parsley, 
 a small bunch each of spring onions and shal- 
 lots, and some mushroom trimmings; boil for 
 one hour, then rub all through the tamis; add 
 the puree to the soup with a pint of Madeira 
 wine; some of the turtle eggs, some forcemeat 
 balls made from the white turtle meat, the 
 cooked green fat cut in pieces, and the juice of 
 one lemon to each gallon of soup. For CLEAR 
 TURTLE SOUP, proceed and finish in the 
 same way, but instead of adding a roux to the 
 stock, let it cool and clarify it into a consomme. 
 A good sherry wine may be used instead of 
 Madeira. 
 
 VANILLA — The fruit or pod of the vanilla plant; 
 used as a flavoring to sauces, ices, puddings, 
 blanc-manges, fritters, creams, liqueurs, souf- 
 fles, eclairs, syrups, caramels, etc. 
 
 VEAL ROLL WITH TONGUE— This is a de- 
 lightful cold dish for luncheons, suppers, etc. 
 Take a large breast of veal, bone it, then place 
 in the brine tub for two days; prick it and 
 punch the air out if it has been blown, remove 
 from brine and wipe dry, then spread thick with 
 a layer of seasoned pork sausage meat; on that 
 place down the centre four cooked pickled pigs 
 tongues, cover them with more of the sausage 
 meat, draw the sides together and sew up with 
 twine, then tie it in a cloth like a roly poly 
 pudding; boil for two hours in white stock, take 
 up and let cool in the cloth, then remove the 
 cloth, wipe with a hot cloth, glaze and serve in 
 slices. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS, GARNISHED— Take the rib 
 
172 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 chops, remove the chine bone and gristle, trim 
 the bone so as to leave a handle for a frill to be 
 placed on when serving, lard the flesh with 
 strips of bacon, ham, tongue, truffle, or sweet- 
 bread and truffle according to desire; then place 
 in a brasiere on a bed of sliced root vegetables, 
 parsley, spring onions, cloves, mace and whole 
 peppers, cover with slices of fat bacon, moisten 
 to the height of the cutlets with stock and a 
 glass of sherry wine, braise till done (about an 
 hour) then serve with a brown Italian sauce . . . 
 mushroom sauce . . . Financiere, Toulouse or 
 Perigueux garniture. These cutlets after being 
 braised, may be cooled, trimmed, masked with 
 sauce, then breadcrumbed and fried, and 
 served with Allemande sauce containing scal- 
 lops of tongue and button mushrooms ... Or 
 with tomato sauce. 
 VEAL CUTLETS SAUTEED— Take the rib 
 chops and trim as in the preceding recipe. 
 Season with salt and pepper, fry a delicate 
 brown on both sides with clarified butter; when 
 nearly done take up and in the butter fry some 
 shallots, mushrooms and parsley, then add some 
 Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim off the fat, 
 add the cutlets and simmer till done; serve 
 garnished with thin scallops of fried ham. 
 FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH VEGETA- 
 BLES — Take the leg of veal and remove the 
 thick flank, lard it with seasoned strips of 
 bacon, braise with carrot, celery, onions, pars- 
 ley, green onions and slices of bacon with mace, 
 cloves and peppers in the usual way, for about 
 two and a half hours; when done, take up, 
 strain, boil and skim the braise, add some 
 sherry or Madeira wine; use it as a sauce to the 
 fricandeau; serve garnished with any vegetable 
 garnish or puree described in this work. It 
 may also be garnished with either Chipolata, 
 Financiere or Toulouse garniture. 
 GRENADINS OF VEAL WITH SPINACH— 
 After removing the thick flank for fricandeau 
 from a leg of veal, you have the buttock and 
 aitchbone left. Bone out the aitch on the leg; 
 remove the marrow bone, split the buttock in 
 the natural seam, then slice the two sections 
 into cutlets or grenadins, lard and braise them; 
 serve on a bed of puree of spinach . , . puree 
 of celery . . . puree of green peas . . . puree of 
 red haricot beans, etc. 
 BLANQUETTE OF VEAL— Take cold roast 
 or braised veal, remove the brown skin, and 
 then cut into neat scallops, add some button 
 mushrooms, or scallops of truffle or tongue, 
 moisten the whole with Allemande sauce, sim- 
 mer; serve garnished with small croquettes of 
 rice ... or potatoes ... or veal forcemeat. 
 SCALLOPS OF VEAL, ITALIAN SAUCE— For 
 this dish use up the thick end of the loin, neck, 
 aitchbone, or leg; cut them into neat shaped 
 
 scallops; also about one-third of the amount 
 similar cut scallops of raw ham; fry them all of a 
 delicate brown color with clarified butter; then 
 pour off the surplus, add some button mush- 
 rooms, and brown Italian sauce, simmer till 
 done; serve with the sauce, and garnish with 
 the mushrooms . . . Or they may be served with 
 either tomato or an Espagnole sauce and garn- 
 ished with quenelles of veal forcemeat. 
 EMINCE OF VEAL— For this dish use the shin 
 taken from the shoulder, also the leg and the 
 trimmings from the neck and scrag; boil it in 
 seasoned stock till done, then allow to become 
 cold; cut it up into small dice with some mush- 
 rooms, ham, tongue and truffles, then moisten 
 the whole with just enough Bechamel sauce to 
 keep it together; serve heaped on a slice of 
 toast; place a neatly poached and drained egg 
 on top. 
 CROQUETTES OF VEAL— Take the parts of 
 the preceding recipe, but instead of cutting 
 them all into dice, run them through the minc- 
 ing machine, moisten with enough Veloute 
 sauce, and stir over the fire till thoroughly 
 heated and stiff; then pour into a buttered pan, 
 smooth with a knife, cover with oiled paper, 
 put away to become cold, then form into cro- 
 quettes or cutlet shapes, bread, fry and serve 
 with either mushroom, tomato, Italian or Peri- 
 gueux sauces. 
 
 VEAL AND OYSTER PIE— For this dish use 
 the scrag end of the neck and the middle neck 
 under the shoulder, boil in one piece in seas- 
 oned white stock; when done, take up and cool, 
 then cut into neat shaped pieces, place into the 
 pie dish with a liberal quantity of scalded oys- 
 ters, make a good white sauce from the stock 
 and oyster liquor, season with salt and nutmeg, 
 add a little chopped parsley; pour over the con- 
 tents of the pie dish, cover with a good short 
 paste, glaze with egg wash, bake and serve. 
 
 ROAST LOIN OR NECK OF VEAL— Take the 
 loin or neck of veal, allowing the tops to be 
 long, remove the bones and gristle, season with 
 salt and pepper, roll up and tie with twine, 
 roast gently without drying the skin into 
 strings; serve with Bechamel sauce and garnish 
 with small potato croquettes. 
 
 CROUSTADE OF VEAL— Take the blanquette 
 of veal of a preceding recipe but cutting the 
 meat into large dice, and serve in croustade 
 cases. 
 
 SALPICON OF VEAL— Take the eminceof veal 
 of a preceding recipe and serve it in croustade 
 cases, paper cases, or steamed and hollowed 
 out white turnips. 
 
 BOUDINS OF VEAL— TIMBALES OF VEAL 
 — Take the remains of cold veal, trim off the 
 skin, run it through the mincing machine with 
 some cooked bacon and button mushrooms, 
 
THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 173 
 
 then moisten with a very little sauce, thor- 
 oughly stir over the fire till thick; butter some 
 timbale or boudin molds, line them with 
 browned bread crumbs, fill in the mince, steam 
 them for about twenty minutes, then turn out 
 and serve with mushroom, tomato, white Italian, 
 brown Italian, Perigueux or Veloute sauces. 
 They may also be garnished with finely shred 
 noodles, green peas, macedoine or Jardiniere 
 of vegetables, button mushrooms, etc. 
 
 BROILED VEAL CHOPS— Use either the loin 
 or rib chops, trim, season with salt, pepper and 
 nutmeg, brush with butter, broil and baste to a 
 golden color; serve with maitre d'hotel, Col- 
 bert, tomato, or Madeira sauces. 
 
 CURRY OF VEAL— For this dish use up the 
 breasts, cut them into even sized pieces, remov- 
 ing the thick bones, season with salt and pep- 
 per, fry a very light color with clarified butter; 
 take up and into the butter then fry a liberal 
 amount of thinly sliced onions, add flour to form 
 a roux, then the curry powder to taste, bring 
 to the boil and skim; simmer for half an hour 
 till the onions are well cooked, then rub through 
 the tamis on to the pieces of breast; simmer 
 then till the meat is done; serve within a border 
 of rice, rissoto, macaroni, spaghetti or noodles. 
 
 GALANTINE OF VEAL— Take a large breast 
 of veal and remove the bones, prick it and punch 
 out the air if it has been blown, season with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little powdered 
 thyme all mixed together, then spread it with a 
 layer of veal forcemeat; on it lay a thinly beaten 
 out and skinned sheet of pigs flare, down the 
 centre place a column of red cooked tongue, on 
 either side of it a smaller column of cooked 
 boiled salt pork, then sprinkle over a mixture of 
 chopped whites and yolks of eggs with minced 
 pickled gherkins, cover with another layer of 
 veal forcemeat, draw the sides together and 
 sew into a neat roll with twine, then tie in a 
 cloth and boil in white stock for two and a half 
 hours, take up and press till cold in the cloth 
 between two boards, then remove the cloth, 
 wipe clean, glaze; serve in slices with croutons 
 of bright aspic jelly. 
 
 STEWED BREAST OF VEAL— Take the breast 
 of veal and boil it whole till tender enough to 
 take out the bones, then let become cold, cut 
 into even sized pieces and stew it in a sauce 
 made from the liquor it was boiled in; serve 
 with a garnish of green peas, lima beans, chip- 
 olata garniture, glazed carrots, mushrooms, 
 forcemeat balls, fried oysters, cauliflower, small 
 white turnips, rice, mushrooms. 
 
 VENISON— The flesh of the deer. The leg and 
 saddle are usually roasted. To roast the leg, 
 
 season it with salt and pepper, brush it all over 
 with melted butter, then enclose it with a crust 
 made of plain flour and water, bake it about an 
 hour, then take up and remove the crust, place 
 it in another baking pan on a stand, pour in a 
 melted mixture of a half pint each of melted 
 butter, red currant jelly, and boiling water; 
 with the residue of the first pan it was baked 
 in, if any, finish roasting and basting till done; 
 serve with the gravy from the pan . . . The sad- 
 dle or double loin, is generally encased with 
 buttered paper instead of the crust . . . The rib 
 and loin chops, are generally broiled and served 
 with a jelly, piquant, Colbert, poivrade, finan- 
 cier, Portugaise or Bigarade sauces, or fried, 
 or sauteed and served with the same sauces or 
 with a chestnut puree . . .The scrag and breasts 
 are generally formed into a stew or a "CIVET 
 OF VENISON." Made the same way as jugged 
 hare (which see). . . The shoulder or the whole 
 forequarter may be roasted and served with 
 poivrade sauce, and red currant jelly sent to 
 table separately. The cold cooked parts left 
 over may be made into croquettes and cutlets 
 and served with a game sauce made from the 
 bones stewed down with herbs, and a little jelly 
 and Madeira wine. The rougher parts may 
 also be made into pies, and the cutlets made 
 into a good VENISON PIE or patties or vol- 
 au-vents. A good soup is made from the shanks, 
 shins and head, boiled down rich, finished with 
 a little Espagnole sauce, Madeira wine, lemon, 
 cayenne pepper; served with game forcemeat 
 balls and croutons. 
 
 VERMICELLI— A fine form of Italian paste 
 used in most of the ways applicable to maca- 
 roni and spaghetti (which see). 
 
 VERMOUTH— A form of liquor cordial; used in 
 making mixed drinks especially. 
 
 VINEGAR — A distilled acid liquor of the wine 
 formation; used as a flavoring and a condiment. 
 
 VOL-AU-VENT— A small hollow form of puff 
 pastry, used as a receptacle to viands. 
 
 WAFFLES — A form of batter cake pastry baked 
 in waffle irons and eaten generally with powd- 
 ered sugar or syrup. 
 
 WALNUT— A hard shelled nut, the interior of 
 which is used for dessert, candies, etc. When 
 plucked green they are used as a pickle after 
 going through the pickling process. 
 
 WHITEFISH — A delicious fish obtained in our 
 lakes. It may be cooked and served in all the 
 ways applicable to our lake trout. 
 
 WOODCOCK — A delicious game bird; cooked 
 and served in all the ways of small game birds de- 
 scribed in this work. 
 
INDEX TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 
 
 Page 
 
 Absinthe 1 & 65 
 
 Acetic acid 1 
 
 Acid, acetic 1 
 
 oltrlo E8 
 
 tartaric 167 
 
 Admiral garnish 85 
 
 Admiral sauce 155 
 
 Aerated waters i 
 
 Af ricaine (garnish) 86 
 
 Aigrettes, anchovy I 
 
 Albert sauce 155 
 
 Albumen 1 
 
 Alcohol... 1 
 
 Algerienne omelet 11? 
 
 Alkermea 65 
 
 Allemaude garnish 85 
 
 Allemande sauce 155 
 
 Alligator pear 1 
 
 " salad 150 
 
 Allspice 1 
 
 Almonds 1 
 
 deviled 1 
 
 salted l 
 
 Almond sauce 155 
 
 Alum 1 
 
 Alumettes, anchovy 1 
 
 Anchovies 1 
 
 bo lichee of 21 
 
 with olives 2 
 
 potted 2 
 
 Anchovy aigrettes 1 
 
 alumettes 1 
 
 baskets 2 
 
 butter 2& 26 
 
 canapes 1&35 
 
 " Berne 2 
 
 catsup 2 
 
 cream 2 
 
 croutons 2 
 
 fritters 1 & 2 
 
 omelet 2 
 
 paste 2 
 
 salad 2&150 
 
 sandwich 
 
 sauce 2 & 155 
 
 stuffing 2 
 
 tartlnes 1 
 
 toast 1 
 
 Andalouse (garnish) 
 
 Andaluslan eauca 15f> 
 
 Angel food 
 
 Angelica 2 
 
 Anglalse (garnish) , 
 
 Aniline 2 
 
 Anise 2 
 
 Aniseed. extract of 
 
 Antelope 2 
 
 Apple bavaroise 
 
 butter 2 
 
 cake 2 
 
 charlotte 3 
 
 cheesecakes 3 
 
 chutney 3 
 
 cobbler 4 
 
 compote 3 
 
 cream 3 
 
 croquettes 3 
 
 custard 3 
 
 " fritters 8 
 
 " pie 3 
 
 dumplings 3 
 
 float S 
 
 Florentine 4 
 
 fritters 3 & 83 
 
 Ice 
 
 Johnny cake 
 
 marmalade 
 
 meringue 
 
 pancakes 
 
 pie 
 
 pudding 8 
 
 puffs 
 
 roly poly 3 
 
 shortcake 3 
 
 soup 3 
 
 tart • 
 
 timbale 4 
 
 Apples 2 
 
 baked 2 
 
 fried 3 
 
 glazed t 
 
 Portugese style 3 
 
 Apricot bavaroise 4 
 
 cobbler 4 
 
 compote 4 
 
 charlotte 4 
 
 chartreuse 4 
 
 fritters 4 & 83 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 marmalade or jam 4 
 
 Page 
 
 Apricot omelet 4 
 
 patties or vol- an- vents 4 
 
 sauce 4 & 155 
 
 sherbet 4 
 
 tartlettes 4 
 
 Apricots d'artols 4 
 
 Incases 4 
 
 a la Colbert 4 
 
 a la conde 4 
 
 au crouton 4 
 
 with rice 4 
 
 and rice fritters 4 
 
 on toast 4 
 
 Artichoke bottoms braised 4 
 
 " with fole gras.... 5 
 
 " with forcemeat.. 4 
 
 " with onions 5 
 
 " with ragout 8 
 
 " stuffed. 5 
 
 Artichoke chips 5 
 
 fritters 5 
 
 omelet 6 
 
 and onion salad 5 
 
 salad 150 
 
 soup 5 
 
 and tomato salad 6 
 
 Artiohokes 4 
 
 a la Barigoule 5 
 
 boiled 6 
 
 with egg — 5 
 
 family style 5 
 
 au gratin 5 
 
 a la Ijjnnnaise 5 
 
 pu ree of 145 
 
 scalloped 5 
 
 a la Soubise 5 
 
 Asparagus 5& 6 
 
 and cauliflower salad 6 
 
 with cheese 6 
 
 omelet 6 
 
 patties 6 
 
 points with quenelles 6 
 
 puree 6 
 
 puree of 145 
 
 salad 6 & 150 
 
 and salmon salad 6 
 
 sauce Hollandaise 6 
 
 soup (i 
 
 stewed 5 
 
 aspic 6 
 
 jelly 6 
 
 mayonnaise 107 
 
 Atelette 6 
 
 Attereaux 
 
 Au jus 86 
 
 Aurora sauce 155 
 
 Aurore (garnish) 85 
 
 Avignon sauco 15P 
 
 Baba 6 
 
 Bacon 
 
 coated oysters, fried 122 
 
 Bagration 
 Bain- marie 
 
 Baking powder 6 
 
 Hallo tine 
 
 Bananas 6 
 
 baked 7 
 
 compote 7 
 
 fried 
 fritters 
 ice cream 
 salad 
 Daraqullle 
 
 Barbecue J 
 
 Barley 
 
 Baron of beef 
 Basil 
 
 Bass 7 
 
 baked 7 
 
 boiled 7 
 
 braised 8 
 
 broiled 7 
 
 alaChambord 8 
 
 a la Conde 8 
 
 croquettes 8 
 
 fried 7 
 
 a la Meunlere 8 
 
 saute 8 
 
 Batter 8 
 
 for buckwheat cakes 8 
 
 for corn griddle cakes 8 
 
 for flannel griddle cakes 8 
 
 for French pa ncakes 8 
 
 for frying sweet foods & fruits 
 
 for f ry i ng vegetables 
 
 for graham griddle cakes 8 
 
 for rice griddle cakes 8 
 
 for Swiss pancakes 8 
 
 for wheat griddle cakes 8 
 
 for Yorkshire pudding 8 
 
 Page 
 
 Bavarian cream . ?u 
 
 sausage 137 
 
 sauce 165 
 
 Bayard (garnish) 86 
 
 Bay leaves 8 
 
 Beans 8 
 
 Bean puree with onions 9 
 
 salad U0 
 
 B3arnaise sauce 17 & 155 
 
 Bechamel sauce 17 & 70 & 155 
 
 Beef 10 
 
 baron of 7 
 
 boiled 10 
 
 " corned 10 
 
 bouillon with crusts 13 
 
 Beef, braised, a V Allemande 11 
 
 '• a la Baden-Baden.. . . 11 
 
 " a la Bignonne 12 
 
 " a la Bourgeoise 11 
 
 " a la Financiere ll 
 
 " a la Flamande 11 
 
 " a la Uodard 11 
 
 " a la Milanaise 11 
 
 " a la Napolltaine 12 
 
 " a l'Orslnl 11 
 
 " a la Piemontalse 11 
 
 " a la Provencale 12 
 
 " a la Richelieu 11 
 
 " German style 11 
 
 " with raviolis 11 
 
 Beef, braised sirloin of, garnished... 11 
 " " withhorsernd 12 
 " " "withmushrms 11 
 " " with quenelles 11 
 " " " with rice cro- 
 quettes 11 
 
 " " with sp. veg'ls 11 
 " " with stuffed 
 
 potatoes.. . 12 
 " " with stuffed 
 
 tomatoeB . . 12 
 " " " with truffles.. 11 
 
 Beef, brisket of, with vegeta bles 10 
 
 broth with celery 13 
 
 " with rice 13 
 
 cakes with egg 11 
 
 chipped in cream 10 
 
 collops with mushrooms 13 
 
 corned 10 
 
 croquettes with peas 13 
 
 curried with rice 14 
 
 cutlets with piquante sauce 14 
 
 devilled with oysters 14 
 
 dried (smoked) 10 
 
 emince of, with peas 15 
 
 Beef, fillet of, a l'Andalouse 12 
 
 " " a la Bayard 12 
 
 " " a la Chateaubriand .. 15 
 
 " " a la Jardiniere 1* 
 
 " " sauce provencale 13 
 
 " " with striDg beans 13 
 
 " " a la Talleyrand 12 
 
 Beef, flank of English style 11 
 
 Beef , frizzled, on toast 10 
 
 Beef, glazed ribs of, with macaroni.. 11 
 " " " with potato cro- 
 quettes 11 
 
 " '' " with vegetables 11 
 
 Beef hash corned 15 
 
 " roast 14 
 
 Beef heart, boiled, with horseradish 16 
 
 " roast, stuffed 16 
 
 Beef kidney saute 16 
 
 soup 16 
 
 Beef, minced, with egg 14 
 
 mlrotonof, with vegetables 15 
 
 a la mode 10 
 
 patties with mushrooms 14 
 
 pauplettes, mushroom sauce... 14 
 
 pickling 130 
 
 pot pie 14 
 
 potted, for sand wlches 15 
 
 ragout of, Creole sauce 16 
 
 rissDles 14 
 
 rissolettes 14 
 
 roast 10 
 
 (Salisbury steak) 13 
 
 sausages 16 & 138 
 
 saute of, truffle sauce 15 
 
 scalloped with oysters 14 
 
 scallops of. sauce Trianon 15 
 
 scrambled with eggs 10 
 
 shortribs 10 
 
 Beef, small fillets of, maitre d'hotel. 15 
 " " " with oysters... 15 
 
 Beef sandwiches, smoked 10 
 
 Beef, smoked, with spinach 10 
 
 Beef soup, English and Scotch 13 
 
 Beef, spiced 15 
 
 " jellied 15 
 
Page 
 
 Beef steak and kidney pie 14 
 
 " and mushroom pie 14 
 
 " and oyster pie 14 
 
 Beef stew, German style 10 
 
 Beef tongue, smoked, with spinach.. 15 
 Veef tenderloin with blood gravy — 16 
 
 " with artichokes 12 
 
 " with oepes 1J 
 
 " with custards 12 
 
 " a la julienne 12 
 
 " a la macedoine 12 
 
 " with mushrooms 19 
 
 " a la Nlvernalse 12 
 
 " a la Parislenne ... . 12 
 
 " a la Prlntanlere .. . 12 
 
 " with stuffed peppers 12 
 
 " with vegetables 12 
 
 Beef tenderloin steak, sc. Bearnalse. 12 
 " '• bordelalse — 12 
 
 " '• Parls.potatoes 12 
 
 " " so.iPerigueux. 13 
 
 " " saute, peppers 13 
 
 Beef tongue, braised, with tomatoes 15 
 " corned with spiDacb... 16 
 
 Be»f , tournedos of, with olivos 15 
 
 Beet and egg salad 17 & 150 
 
 greens ' . . 16 
 
 and potato salad 17 
 
 Beets : 16 
 
 boiled in butter sauce 16 
 
 for garnishing 10 
 
 pickled 16 
 
 Beetroot and potato salad 150 
 
 Bell fritters 57 
 
 Benedictine 17 & 6i> 
 
 Berlin pancakes 73 
 
 Bermuda onions, pureo of U6 
 
 Bey rou t sauce 156 
 
 Bigarade sauce 150 
 
 Biscuits, cheese 43 
 
 Bisque 1~ 
 
 of crabs 17 & P9 
 
 of " Creole style 69 
 
 of crayfish 17 
 
 of herring 17 
 
 of jack rabbit 17 
 
 of lobster 17 & 103 
 
 of oysters 17 
 
 of partridge 17 
 
 of plovers 17 
 
 of prawns (or shrimps 17 
 
 of salmon 17 
 
 of terrapin 17 
 
 Bitter almond, extract of 81 
 
 Black beans with rissoto 9 
 
 Blackberries 18 
 
 with cream 18 
 
 charlotte 18 
 
 compote 18 
 
 jam 18 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 pie 18 
 
 pudding 18 
 
 shortcake 18 
 
 tartlets 18 
 
 Blaokblrds 18 
 
 broiled on skewers 18 
 
 compote of 18 
 
 pie 18 
 
 In potatoes 18 
 
 salmis of 18 
 
 Blackcock i9 
 
 " broiled, with jolly 19 
 
 Blackdiver 19 
 
 Blackflsh 18 
 
 baked, oyster sauce 19 
 
 boiled, Italian sauce 19 
 
 broiled, with parsley 18 
 
 fried, with bacon 18 
 
 saute with fine herbs 19 
 
 Black game, roast, bread sauce 19 
 
 Black grouse, braised 19 
 
 Black pudding 19 
 
 Blancmange 
 
 " chocolate 56 
 
 " corn 6ti 
 
 Blanch or blanohed 1 
 
 Blanquette It- 
 Bladders (pigs) 131 
 
 Bloaters 19 
 
 toasted 19 
 
 Blood (pigs) 
 
 sausage 
 
 (Fre -h) 
 
 " (KTon i Germany!. 
 
 Bluefisb 
 
 baked, In crumbs 
 
 " matelote sauce 
 
 " with fine herbs 
 
 " with tomatoes .... 
 
 Page 
 
 Bluefisb, boiled, shrimp sauce 20 
 
 broiled, with anchovy butter .. 20 
 
 saute, admiral sauce 20 
 
 with anchovies 20 
 
 steaks, Italian sauce IS 
 
 stuffed 11 llets of 20 
 
 " and baked 19 
 
 Boars head, glazed 133 
 
 Bohemian sauce 156 
 
 Bohemienne (garnish) 86 
 
 Bologna sausage 138 
 
 •' (Italian) 139 
 
 Boned turkey 170 
 
 Bones (pigs) 131 
 
 Bordelaise (garnish) 86 
 
 sauce, brown and white 150 
 
 Boston stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Box stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Bouohee 20 & 167 
 
 of anchovies 21 
 
 of chicken 20 
 
 of crayfish tails 2i 
 
 of f oie-gras 20 
 
 of game 20 
 
 with game puree 20 
 
 of lobsters 20 & 102 
 
 with marrow 20 
 
 with mushrooms 21 
 
 of oranges 21 
 
 of oysters 2 j 
 
 with ox palates 21 
 
 of peaches 21 
 
 ofplums 2i 
 
 with ragout 20 
 
 of reed bird 21 
 
 a la Heine 20 
 
 a la St. Hubert 20 
 
 of salmon 21 
 
 with salpicon 2* 
 
 of sardines 21 
 
 a la Seville 21 
 
 of sole 21 
 
 of sweetbreads 20 
 
 of woodcock 21 
 
 Boudin 21 
 
 blanc 21 
 
 of fowl 21 
 
 of hare 21 
 
 de lapin 21 
 
 de lievre 21 
 
 noir 19 & 21 
 
 of rabbit 21 
 
 of veal 21 
 
 de veau 21 
 
 Bouergoise (garnish) 86 
 
 sauce 156 
 
 Boulettes of game 21 
 
 Bouillabaisse 21 
 
 Bouillon, beef, with crusts 13 
 
 Bourgignotte or bourglgnonne(garn) 86 
 
 Bourgignotte sauce 156 
 
 Brain cakes with bacon 24 
 
 croquette* with peas 24 
 
 cutlets, Vlllerol sauce 24 
 
 f oroemeat 24 
 
 kromeskies, Madiera sauce 25 
 
 patties or vol an vents 25 
 
 pigs 131 
 
 Brains ...23 
 
 braised, with mushrooms 24 
 
 " sauce Remoulade 24 
 
 " with stuffed tomatoes. 24 
 
 broiled, with parsley butter 25 
 
 creamed, with kidney beans 24 
 
 croustades of, with artichokes. 24 
 
 fried, breaded, Tartar sauce 24 
 
 " with brown butter 24 
 
 and mushrooms i n cases 24 
 
 with rice, Turkish style 24 
 
 roast, with forcemeat balls 24 
 
 in sauce Poulette with rice 24 
 
 scalloped, in shell 24 
 
 scrambled 23 
 
 with sorrel, sauce Ravlgote 24 
 
 Braise and braising 25 
 
 Krandied cherries 4 
 
 Braudy 23 
 
 sauce 23 
 
 Bread 23 
 
 white versus brown 23 
 
 Bressoise sauce 156 
 
 Bretonne (garnish) 
 
 sauce, cold and hot 156 
 
 Brie 23 
 
 Brine 23 
 
 for ham. pickles, etc 131 
 
 Brioche fritters 73 
 
 Brochette 21 
 
 of calf's brains 22 
 
 of chicken livers 22 
 
 175 
 
 Page 
 
 Brochette of duck livers 22 
 
 of crayfish talis 23 
 
 of eels 22 
 
 of geese livers 22 
 
 of lamb fries 23 
 
 of lamb kidneys 21 
 
 of lobster 22 
 
 of mussels S2 
 
 of mutton 22 
 
 of ortolans 120 
 
 of oysters 21 & 122 
 
 ofreedbirds 23 
 
 of pigs' kidneys 22 
 
 of rabbit 22 
 
 of scallops 23 
 
 of smelts 2 5 
 
 of spring lamb 22 
 
 of sweetbreads.. 22 
 
 ofturkey 23 
 
 of turkey livers 22 
 
 of veal 22 
 
 Brook tiout with quenelles 169 
 
 " broiled 109 
 
 Broth, beef, with celery 13 
 
 chioken. with artichokes 56 
 
 " with asparagus tips... 66 
 
 " with custards 55 
 
 •' wlthonlons 66 
 
 " with peached egg 16 
 
 •' with rice 55 
 
 " with sorrel 16 
 
 " with spring vegetables 56 
 
 clam (8 
 
 Brunoise 25 
 
 Brunswick, cervelat sausage 139 
 
 Brussels sprouts 25 
 
 " boiled 25 
 
 " in cream 25 
 
 " with parsley butter. 25 
 
 " puraeof 25 
 
 " sautees 25 
 
 Buck 25 
 
 Buckwheat 25 
 
 cakes 8 
 
 Bulsson 25 
 
 Burbot 78 
 
 Butter 25 
 
 adulterations 26 
 
 anchovy 2 & 26 
 
 apple 2 
 
 cakes 25 
 
 crayfish 26 
 
 drawn 26 
 
 garlic 26 
 
 horseradish 26 & 96 
 
 lobster 26 
 
 maltre d'hotel 26 
 
 montpeller 46 
 
 peach 127 
 
 pepper 26 
 
 plum 134 
 
 ravigote 26 
 
 shrimp 26 
 
 Butterball duok 26 
 
 Butterlne or margarine 26 
 
 Button onion soup with peas 119 
 
 Cabbage 26 
 
 baked, with cheese 27 
 
 " with ham 26 
 
 boiled 26 
 
 " German style 27 
 
 braised 27 
 
 creamed 26 
 
 with eggs 27 
 
 fried, with bacon 27 
 
 an gratln 27 
 
 paupiettos of 27 
 
 pickled 27 
 
 salad 27 & 150 
 
 stewed 26 
 
 stuffed 26 
 
 timbales 27 
 
 Cafe 27 
 
 Cailies 28 
 
 Cake, apple 2 
 
 chocolate 57 
 
 citron 58 
 
 plum 135 
 
 Cakes, batter 8 
 
 beef, with egg 14 
 
 brain, with bacon 24 
 
 butter 25 
 
 codfish 61 
 
 orab 67 
 
 flannel 82 
 
 green corn batter 67 
 
 hoe 96 
 
 sausage, with potatoes 16 
 
 Calf 28 
 
 Calf's brains, brochette of 22 
 
176 C 
 
 Page 
 
 Calf's brains, parsley sauce 26 
 
 " sauce vinaigrette 24 
 
 " savory omelet of 25 
 
 " and tongue, mushrni sc 24 
 
 Calf's ears, boiled, sauce vllleroi 29 
 
 " fried, tomato sauce 29 
 
 '• ragout of, in croustades. 29 
 " stuffed, sauce bordelaise 29 
 " with truffles, sc. trianon. 30 
 
 " turtlestyle 29 
 
 Calf 'b feet 30 
 
 " boiled, poivrade sauce-.. 30 
 " crepinettes, sc prov'cale 30 
 
 " croustades of 30 
 
 " frlcasee of 30 
 
 " in batter, Italian sauce. 30 
 
 " jelly 30 
 
 " witbmushr'm, sc.poulett 30 
 " steamed, sc. remoulade. 30 
 
 Calf's head 28 
 
 " with bacon & parsley so. 28 
 " baked with chipolatagar 28 
 
 " " English style 28 
 
 " " German style 28 
 
 " " sauce maintenon.. 28 
 
 " boiled, sauce vinaigrette 29 
 •' and braine,musbroom so. 28 
 " " " sauc poivrade 29 
 " braised, with veaJquen'ls 28 
 
 " curried with rice 29 
 
 " with financiers ragoat. . . 28 
 
 " fried, tomato sauce 28 
 
 " fricassee of, withveg'bles 29 
 " with olives.tomato sauce 29 
 
 " sauce Italienne 28 
 
 " sauce poulette 28 
 
 " soup, Portugese style.... 29 
 
 " " with quenelles 29 
 
 stuffed, sauce papllotte. 29 
 " and tongue, piquante sc. 28 
 " " " ragout of — 29 
 
 " tu-t'estyle ...28 
 
 Calf's heart, larded, sauce Andalouse 30 
 
 " stuffedand braised 30 
 
 " " Madiera sauce.. 30 
 
 Calf's kidneys, broiled, parsley butter 30 
 
 " croquettes with peas. 31 
 
 " in croustades 31 
 
 fried, sauce colbert. . . 31 
 " larded, Madeira sauce 30 
 
 ' ' omelet 31 
 
 " patties of 31 
 
 " ragoutof 31 
 
 " sautes with mushr'ms 30 
 Calf's liver and baoon with spinach . 31 
 
 " broiled, Italian sauce 31 
 
 " braised, with vegetables . 31 
 
 " with crisped onions 31 
 
 " fried, with fine herbs 31 
 
 " potted, with aspic jelly... 32 
 
 " quenelles In crumbs 32 
 
 " saute, with bacon 31 
 
 " scallops of, with mushr'm 31 
 " with smothered onions... 31 
 
 " stewed with onions 31 
 
 " timbale of, piquant sauce 32 
 
 Calf's sweetbreads, blanquette of . . . . 33 
 
 " braised, garnished. .. 33 
 
 " " wlthBorrel 33 
 
 " broiled, sauce colbert 32 
 " with brown butter... 32 
 
 " In cases 33 
 
 •' casserole of 33 
 
 " withcream'dmush'm 84 
 " in cream, on toast... 321 
 " croquettes with peas 32 
 " croustade of curried. 33 
 " outlets of, with veg'bl 33 
 
 " with deml-glace 33 
 
 " fried, mushr'm sauce 34 
 " " sauce perigueux 32 
 
 " " sauce villeroi... 34 
 
 " with financier ragout 33 
 " glazed, French beans 33 
 
 '• kromeskies of 34 
 
 " larded and braised, 
 
 mushroom sauce . 33 
 " larded, sauc toulouse 33 
 " patties of, scrambled 33 
 " ragoutof, with morels 34 
 
 " " " on toast 34 
 
 " rissoles of, vegetables 32 
 " saute of, with baked 
 
 tomatoes 34 
 
 " sautes with peas 32 
 
 " scalloped 33 
 
 " lnshell 32 
 
 " stewed, kidney beans 34 
 
 " timbale of 33 
 
 Calf's tongue, braised, tomato sauce- 32 
 
 Page 
 
 Calf's tongue, fried, sauoe Robert 32 
 
 " with potatoes. mush. bc 32 
 
 " sauce tartare 32 
 
 " saute, vinaigrette 32 
 
 California shoulders, pickling of 132 
 
 Calipee and calipash 28 
 
 Cambridge sausage 139 
 
 Camembert 35 
 
 Canapes 35 
 
 Aberdeen 36 
 
 anchovy 1& 2 
 
 Berne, or Swiss canapes 35 
 
 Cabillaud 36 
 
 Of caviar 35 & 40 
 
 chasseur 35 
 
 cheese 36 
 
 chicken 35 
 
 of chicken livers 35 
 
 of crab 35 & 68 
 
 Creole 35 
 
 Ino ian 35 
 
 Lorenzo 35 
 
 Madison 35 
 
 Madras 36 
 
 olive 35 
 
 of oranges 119 
 
 of oysters 35 
 
 of potted ham 35 
 
 of potted tongue 36 
 
 sardine 36 
 
 savory 36 
 
 Scotch 36 
 
 of shrimps 35 
 
 of smoked salmon 35 
 
 Swiss 36 
 
 Windsor 36 
 
 Winchester 36 
 
 Canard 36 
 
 Candied peel fritters 82 
 
 Canned goods 36 
 
 Caunelons 36 
 
 Canteloupes 36 
 
 Capers 36 
 
 Caper sauce 156 
 
 " for flsh 156 
 
 Capercailzie 36 
 
 Capons 36 
 
 boiled stuffed, celery sauoe 37 
 
 " with mllanalse garnish.. 37 
 
 " mushroom sauce 37 
 
 " with sait pork 31 
 
 " with tongue & cauliflower 37 
 braised, with chipolata garnish 37 
 " with quenelles, sauce 
 
 perigueux 37 
 
 " eauce supreme 37 
 
 " with tomatoed rice — 37 
 
 roast, with noodles 37 
 
 " stuffed, glblet sauce- ..37 
 
 " " with rice 37 
 
 Capon, stewed, with vegetables 37 
 
 Capsicums 37 
 
 Caramel 37 
 
 Caraway 37 
 
 Carbonade 37 
 
 Cardinal 37 
 
 (garnish) 86 
 
 sauce 156 
 
 Cardoons 37 
 
 Carmine 38 
 
 Carp 38 
 
 baked, sauce genose 38 
 
 " sauce matelote 38 
 
 boiled, caper sauce .38 
 
 braised stuffed sauce allemai ne 38 
 
 broiled stuffed, flnes-her'oes so. 3* 
 
 •' lemon parsley butter... 38 
 
 fried, piquante sauce 38 
 
 Carp roes, boiled, sauce supreme.... 38 
 
 " fried, sauce tartare 38 
 
 " patties of 38 
 
 " scalloped, in shell 38 
 
 Carp saute, admiral sauce 38 
 
 Carrots 3£ 
 
 curried, with rice 39 
 
 braised new, parsley sance 38 
 
 glazed new, with butter 39 
 
 new, in brown gravy 39 
 
 " in cream 38 
 
 " poulette sauce 39 
 
 puree of 146 
 
 salad with asparagus tips 39 
 
 sauce 156 
 
 saute of new 38 
 
 soup 39 
 
 stewed, with green peas 89 
 
 Carving 39 
 
 Cases 27 
 
 Casserole 39 
 
 jCassla 39 
 
 Cassolette 39 
 
 Catfish 39 
 
 Catsup, anchovy 2 
 
 mushroom 109 
 
 Caul (pigs) 131 
 
 Cauliflower, baked 40 
 
 boiled, Hollandaise sauce 40 
 
 cream of 40 
 
 fried, allemande sauce 40 
 
 with mayonnaise 40 
 
 pickled 40 
 
 puree of 40 
 
 salad 40&160 
 
 sauce 40 & 156 
 
 scalloped 40 
 
 stewed 40 
 
 Caviar 40 
 
 canapes of 35 & 48 
 
 croustades 40 
 
 with egg 40 
 
 eggs stuffed with 40 
 
 tartines 40 
 
 on toast with olives 40 
 
 Celeriac 41 
 
 Celery 40 
 
 baked, with cheese 41 
 
 boiled, with onions 41 
 
 braised, on toast 41 
 
 consomme 4! 
 
 cream of 41 
 
 fried, sauce villeroi 41 
 
 fritters 41 
 
 with marrow 41 
 
 mayonnaise of 41 
 
 patties 41 
 
 puree of 145 
 
 " " and onion3 41 
 
 salads ISO 
 
 sauce, brown and white 156 
 
 saute 41 
 
 stewed, on toast 41 
 
 Cepes 41 
 
 broiled, on toast 42 
 
 omelet with 42 
 
 saute of , on toast 41 
 
 stewed, on toast 41 
 
 Cercelles 42 
 
 Cerealine 42 
 
 Cerises glaces a la Chantilly 46 
 
 Cerveaux au beurre noir 24 
 
 en coqullle au gratin 24 
 
 Cervelas 42 
 
 Cervelat sausage, Brunswick .139 
 
 Cervelatpolse or Danish beef and 
 
 pork sausage 137 
 
 Cervelles 42 
 
 Chablis 42 
 
 Chadeau sauce 167 
 
 Chaflngdish 42 
 
 Chambord (garnish) 86 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Champagne 42 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Chantausen sauce 157 
 
 Chantilly 4S 
 
 cream 42 
 
 soup 4J 
 
 Charcoal 42 
 
 Charlotte 42 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 peach 128 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 Chartreuse 42 & 65 
 
 peach 128 
 
 Cbassnur 42 
 
 sauce 156 
 
 Chateaubriand 43 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Chaudfroid 43 
 
 sauce ..167 
 
 Cherries 44 
 
 brandied 45 
 
 in croustades 45 
 
 glazed, with whipped cream — 45 
 
 Cherry charlotte 46 
 
 cobbler 45 
 
 compote 45 
 
 flawn 45 
 
 fritters 45 
 
 jelly 45 
 
 marmalade 45 
 
 meringue 45 
 
 pie 45 
 
 •' deep 45 
 
 pudding 45 
 
 roly-poly /5 
 
 sauce 167 
 
 sherbet 45 
 
 tarts 45 
 
 trifle 45 
 
c 
 
 Page 
 
 Cherry water ice 4S> 
 
 Cheese 43 
 
 biscuits 43 
 
 bombe 44 
 
 camembert 35 
 
 canapes 36 
 
 casseroles 44 
 
 club 44 
 
 cones 44 
 
 cottage 43 
 
 custard 41 
 
 fingers 44 
 
 flans 44 
 
 fritters 44 
 
 gruyere 92 
 
 liver, Italian style 31 
 
 lobster 101 
 
 omelet 44 
 
 parmesan 12* 
 
 potted 44 
 
 puddln» 44 
 
 ramequlns 43 
 
 sandwiches 44 
 
 savories 43 
 
 scallops 4H 
 
 souffles 44 
 
 straws 43 
 
 Swiss 92 
 
 Cheesecakes, apple 3 
 
 Chemise 44 
 
 Chervil 45 
 
 Chestnuts 45 
 
 devilled 46 
 
 foroemeat 46 
 
 puree of 46 & 145 
 
 soup 46 
 
 Chevreuil sauce 157 
 
 Chiantl 46 
 
 Chicken, blanched, with veloutesauc 48 
 
 blanquette of, with truffles 49 
 
 boiled larded, with macaroni... 50 
 " with salt pork, parsley sc 48 
 " with veg'bl,allemandeso 50 
 
 " boned 61 
 
 bouchee of 20 
 
 Chicken, braised fillets of, Hanover sc 49 
 " with green peppers 49 
 
 " with macaroni 48 
 
 " with mushrooms... 50 
 
 " with vegetables 50 
 
 Chicken, breast of, steamed, sauce 
 
 supreme 52 
 
 broiled 46 
 
 " hunter's style 48 
 
 Chicken broth with artichokes 56 
 
 " with asparagus 56 
 
 " with custards 55 
 
 " with onions 56 
 
 " with poached egg 56 
 
 " with rice 55 
 
 " with sorrel 56 
 
 " with spring vegetabl's 56 
 
 Chicken canapes 35 
 
 cannelon of, tartar sauce 53 
 
 capilotade of 53 
 
 chartreuse of, with string beans 50 
 
 chaudf roid of 50 
 
 with chestnut puree and veg'bls 48 
 
 co 1 1 ops of, with macaroni 54 
 
 consomme 55 
 
 Chicken, cream of 55 
 
 " " with quenelles ... 55 
 
 " " with rice 55 
 
 " " with tomatoed 
 
 quenelles 55 
 
 Chicken croquettes 46 
 
 croustades of 53 
 
 curried, with rice 49 
 
 Chicken cutlets with green peas 50 
 
 '• minced sc bordelalse 46 
 
 '• of, with vegetables.. 47 
 
 Chlcken,epigramme of, tomato sauce 48 
 
 Chicken, fillets of, with asparagus pts 50 
 
 " " with cardinal sauc 62 
 
 Chicken forcemeat 50 & 82 
 
 " balls curried, with rice 50 
 " fried, tomato sauce... 53 
 
 Chicken, fricassee of 46 
 
 Chicken, fried 46 
 
 " In hatter, tomato sauce 48 
 " breast of, corn fritters 52 
 " with cucumber puree.. 49 
 
 " fricassee of 47 
 
 " Indian style 49 
 
 " with rice and okras 52 
 
 Chicken fritters, plquante sauce .... 53 
 
 galantine of 51 & 84 
 
 giblets, ragout of, with potato 
 
 croquettes 54 
 
 glblet soup 54 
 
 Page 
 Chicken giblets stewed, with rice — 54 
 
 gumbo 55 
 
 Chicken halibut 93 
 
 and ham hashed with rice 54 
 
 ham and tongue 6ausage 140 
 
 haricot of, with vegetables 48 
 
 hash with peppers on toast.. . . (3 
 
 " with stuffed peppers 53 
 
 kromeskies, sauoe perigueux... 61 
 legs, boiled, with green peas... 52 
 
 " devilled, with bacon 50 
 
 Chicken livers, brochette of 22 
 
 " canapes of 35 
 
 " in oases 54 
 
 '• forcemeat 54 
 
 " omelet of 64 
 
 ' ' roast, on toast 54 
 
 " saute of , on toast 54 
 
 " stewed, with mush'rs 54 
 
 Chicken, Maryland style 48 
 
 matelote of 48 
 
 mayonnaise 56 & 161 
 
 a la Marengo 49 
 
 minced, with poached egg 53 
 
 panada with eggs on toast 63 
 
 patties, sauce supreme 61 
 
 pie 46 
 
 pies, small, French style 47 
 
 potted, for sandwiches 53 
 
 pot pie 46 
 
 puree of 55 
 
 quenelle forcemeat 51 
 
 " with mushrooms 51 
 
 " with truffles.sc supreme 63 
 
 with rice, maltese style 47 
 
 rissoles of 51 
 
 roast boned 51 
 
 " with mushr'ms & bread sc 48 
 
 " oyster sauce 47 
 
 salad 56 & 121 
 
 salpicon of, with potatoes 51 
 
 sausages, sauce Hollandaise ... 63 
 
 Chicken, saute of, with bouchees 51 
 
 " with mushrooms 48 
 
 " with oysters 53 
 
 " with potato balls 63 
 
 " with rice and leeks... 63 
 
 " with rlssoto 47 
 
 Chicken, scalloped 51 
 
 smothered 46 
 
 souffles of 53 
 
 Chicken soup, Creole style 65 
 
 English style 55 
 
 with noodles 56 
 
 with peas puree 66 
 
 Portuguese style 65 
 
 with rice and .eeks 6f 
 
 Southern style 55 
 
 Turkish style 66 
 
 with vegetab'es 55 
 
 Chicken, spltchcocked.crapaudlne so. 49 
 
 Chicken, stewed, with dumplings 49 
 
 " with estragon 60 
 
 " German style 61 
 
 " Mexican style 49 
 
 " with rice 49 
 
 " sauce provencale.. 62 
 
 " sauce ravigote 62 
 
 •' Spanish style 47 
 
 " with tomatoes 47 
 
 " Turkish style 47 
 
 Chicken stuffed with chestnuts, Ma- 
 deira sauce 47 
 
 " breast of, cucumbers 52 
 
 " " " scperigueu f2 
 
 " & stewed, sc. mllanais 49 
 
 supreme of, with rice. perigueux 47 
 
 " " with toulouse ragout 47 
 
 tlmbalesof.withforc'meatDalls 53 
 
 vol-au-vet t of, with quenelles. . 51 
 
 Chicory 46 & 80 
 
 salad 150 
 
 Chtffonade 66 
 
 Chillies 37 
 
 Chili sauce 157 
 
 Chipolata 66 
 
 (garnish) 86 
 
 Chives 56 
 
 Chivry (garnish) 86 
 
 Chocolate 56 
 
 blancmange 56 
 
 cake 57 
 
 cream 57 
 
 " fritters 56 
 
 oup custards 57 
 
 float 57 
 
 fritters 83 
 
 Ice eream 57 
 
 Icing 75 
 
 pudding 57 
 
 C J 77 
 
 Page 
 
 Choux de bruxelles 2i 
 
 croutons 57 
 
 Choux-paste 57 
 
 Chow chow 57 
 
 Chowder, clam !8 
 
 codfish 61 
 
 Philadelphia clam 68 
 
 Chutney 67 
 
 apple 3 
 
 Cider 57 
 
 Cinnamon 57 
 
 extract of 81 
 
 Cisco 57 
 
 broiled, lemon parsley sauce... 57 
 
 fillets of. In batter 67 
 
 sante, julienne potatoes 57 
 
 Citric acid 58 
 
 Citron 68 
 
 cake .'8 
 
 Civet of venison 173 
 
 Clams 58 
 
 broiled 58 
 
 broth 68 
 
 chowder 68 
 
 cocktail 60 
 
 cream of £9 
 
 croquettes 58 
 
 forcemeat 58 
 
 fricasssee of 68 
 
 fried 58 
 
 fritters 58 
 
 roast 68 
 
 scalloped 68 
 
 soup 69 
 
 steamed 68 
 
 stew 68 
 
 Claremont sauce 157 
 
 Claret sauce 157 
 
 Cloves 9 
 
 extract of 81 
 
 Club cheese . . . . 44 
 
 Cobbler 69 
 
 apple 4 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 peach . .128 
 
 Coblenz sausage 139 
 
 Coohineal 69 
 
 Cochon 59 
 
 delait 69 
 
 Cock-a-leekle soup 65 
 
 Cockie-leekie soup 69 
 
 Cockles 59 
 
 Cockscombs 59 
 
 Cocks kernels 59 
 
 Cocktails 59 
 
 clam 60 
 
 Neptune 60 
 
 oyster ' — 60 
 
 Cocoa 69 
 
 Cocoanut 59 
 
 Cocotte 69 
 
 Cod, boiled salt, cream sauce 61 
 
 creamed fresh, on toast 60 
 
 crimped, shrimp sauce 61 
 
 cutlet fried, piquante sauce — 60 
 
 au gratln 61 
 
 and oyster pie 123 
 
 " " " French style 61 
 
 Cod's roes, boiled, butter sauce 61 
 
 " broiled, butter sauce 61 
 
 " fried, caper sauce 61 
 
 " smoked 61 
 
 Cod, salt, shredded and creamed 61 
 
 " scalloped 61 
 
 " scrambled, on toast 61 
 
 Cod's sounds, fricassee of , with oystrs 61 
 " stuffed, oyster sauce-.. 61 
 Cod steak, boiled, with anchovies.... 69 
 breadcrumbed, parsley sc. 60 
 
 " broiled, colbert sauce 60 
 
 " curried, with rlssoto 60 
 
 " fried, tomato sauce 60 
 
 " saute, club style 61 
 
 Codfish 60 
 
 baked, caper sauce 60 
 
 •' stuffed with oysters 60 
 
 " breadcrumbed 60 
 
 " balls 61 
 
 boiled, egg sauce 60 
 
 cakes 61 
 
 chowder 61 
 
 hash, salt, New England style . 62 
 
 salad 150 
 
 scalloped fresh 61 
 
 Codfish tongues, boiled, egg sauce ... 61 
 
 " patties 62 
 
 " scalloped fresh .... 61 
 
 Coffee 62 
 
 ice cream 62 
 
 Cognac 62 
 
178 
 
 C-D 
 
 Page 
 
 Colbert 62 
 
 •nuoe 157 
 
 soup 62 
 
 Cole slaw . 27 
 
 Combination salads 154 
 
 Compote H2 
 
 apple 3 
 
 banana 7 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 of blackbirds 18 
 
 cherry 46 
 
 of oranges il9 
 
 of peaches 127 
 
 of pigeon 133 
 
 Conde 62 
 
 Confiture fritters 83 
 
 Conger eel, boiled, allemande sauce . 78' 
 
 " curried with ric<j 78 
 
 " fried, tartar sauce 78 
 
 " roast stuffed, admiral sc. 18 
 
 Consomme 62 
 
 Af ricaine 62 
 
 andalouse 62 
 
 Anglaise 62 
 
 with asparagus tips 05 
 
 bagration 62 
 
 barigoule 63 
 
 beauvllliers 63 
 
 bourdaloue 63 
 
 bourgeoise 63 
 
 brunoise 63 
 
 careme 63 
 
 celery 41 & 63 
 
 celestine 63 
 
 cbantilly 6 3 
 
 chatelaine 63 
 
 chicken 5^ 
 
 chlffonade 63 
 
 with choux 63 
 
 cl aremont 63 
 
 colbert 63 
 
 with corn 65 
 
 cussy 63 
 
 with darioles 63 
 
 daumont 63 
 
 de Btael 65 
 
 descllgnac 03 
 
 d'Orsay 63 
 
 Douglas 63 
 
 duborg 63 
 
 Duchesse 63 
 
 epicure 64 
 
 Gambetta 64 
 
 of game 64 
 
 imperatrice 64 
 
 imperial 64 
 
 Indienne 64 
 
 Ingredients 62 
 
 Italtenne 64 
 
 Joinvllle 64 
 
 julienne 64 
 
 Kursel 64 
 
 with macaroni 64 
 
 macedoine 64 
 
 magenta 64 
 
 Marie Stuart 64 
 
 Massena 64 
 
 Meflcis 64 
 
 Milanaise 64 
 
 Monte Carlo 64 
 
 Montmorency 64 
 
 Napolitaine 64 
 
 Naudier 64 
 
 Nilsson 64 
 
 nl vernaise 64 
 
 with noodles 64 
 
 orge 64 
 
 Palestine 65 
 
 pate d'ltalie 65 
 
 patti 65 
 
 paysanne 65 
 
 with peas 64 & 65 
 
 polsson 65 
 
 Prince de Galles 65 
 
 Prlncesse 65 
 
 prlntaniere 65 
 
 " royal 65 
 
 with quenelles 65 
 
 Rachael 65 
 
 renaissance 65 
 
 with rice ... 6F 
 
 rivoli 65 
 
 royale 65 
 
 sagou 65 
 
 8t. Xavier 65 
 
 semoule 65 
 
 seveigne 65 
 
 solferino 65 
 
 suedoise 65 
 
 talma... 65 
 
 Page 
 
 Consomme trois racines 65 
 
 with turnips 65 
 
 vermicelli 05 
 
 volatile 65 
 
 65 
 
 de Bruyere 65 
 
 d'Inde 65 
 
 Coquille 65 
 
 Coroeille 65 
 
 Cordials 65 
 
 Coriander 65 
 
 Corn 66 
 
 batter cakes 60 
 
 Corned beef hash 15 
 
 Corn blanc mange 66 
 
 bread, johnny cake or corn dodgr 66 
 
 dodger 60 
 
 fritters... 06 & 83 
 
 gems or muffins 66 
 
 pudding, grated 67 
 
 griddle cakes 8 
 
 hulled 6ii 
 
 Corn meal or Indian pudding 66 
 
 " gruel 66 
 
 " mush 60 
 
 Com muffins (6 
 
 mush fried 60 
 
 in ear, roast 67 
 
 salad 07 
 
 soup 67 
 
 starch 67 
 
 stewed, Creole style 67 
 
 and tomato soup 67 
 
 waffles 66 
 
 Cotelettes 6'i 
 
 Cottage cheese 43 
 
 Courtbouillon 67 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Crab apples 69 
 
 Crabs 67 
 
 baked f8 
 
 bisque of 17 & 09 
 
 buttered 07 
 
 cakes 67 
 
 canapes of 33 & 08 
 
 Creole style 68 
 
 croquettes 63 
 
 croustade of 68 
 
 devilled 68 
 
 oniince of 68 
 
 forcemeat 68 
 
 fritter* 68 
 
 gumbo (soup) 68 
 
 kromeskies 68 
 
 omelet 68 
 
 queen style 68 
 
 a la Reice 68 
 
 salad 63 & 151 
 
 sauce 69 
 
 sausages 68 
 
 scalloped 
 
 stew 08 
 
 stuffed 08 
 
 toast 07 
 
 tomatoes stuffed wi th 08 
 
 Cranberries 69 
 
 Cranberry jam 69 
 
 jelly 69 
 
 pie 69 
 
 roll 69 
 
 sauce 158 
 
 tartlettes 70 
 
 Crapaudine 70 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Crayfish 70 
 
 bisque Of 17 
 
 butter 26 
 
 tails, bouchce of 20 
 
 " brochette of 23 
 
 Cream 70 
 
 anchovy 2 
 
 apple 3 
 
 Bavarian 70 
 
 of cauliflower 40 
 
 of celery 41 
 
 chantilly 42 
 
 Cream of chicken 55 
 
 " " with quenelles 55 
 
 " " with rice 55 
 
 Cream , chocolate 57 
 
 of clams 59 
 
 dressing 154 
 
 fritters 70 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 of lentils 100 
 
 puffs 67 & 70 
 
 sauce 70 
 
 stew (oyster) 121 
 
 of tartar 70 
 
 whipped 70 
 
 Page 
 
 Creamed fresh mushrooms 10s 
 
 macaroni 104 
 
 onions 118 
 
 oysters on toast 123 
 
 Crecy u 
 
 Creole canapes 35 
 
 omelet 80 & 117 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 Crepes 71 
 
 Crepine 71 
 
 Creplnettes .. 71 
 
 Cress 71 
 
 salad 11 
 
 Cresson 71 
 
 Cretes de coq 59 
 
 Cre vette sauce 157 
 
 Cromeskies 71 
 
 Croquenbouchees 57 
 
 CroquetteB 71 
 
 apple 3 
 
 bass 8 
 
 beef, with peas 13 
 
 brain, with peas 84 
 
 chicken 46 
 
 clam 58 
 
 crab 68 
 
 of ham with green peas 94 
 
 hominy ... 96 
 
 lobster H2 
 
 macaroni 104 
 
 oyster 153 
 
 partridge, sauce Perlgueux. ...126 
 
 pork, anchovy sauce 136 
 
 potato 143 
 
 rice 149 
 
 salmon 154 
 
 stuffed potato 143 
 
 of sweetbreads 166 
 
 turkey 170 
 
 of veal 172 
 
 Croustades 71 
 
 caviar 40 
 
 of oysters 122 
 
 of partridge 126 
 
 of rice 149 
 
 Croute-au-pot 71 
 
 Croutons — 71 
 
 Cucumbers .71 
 
 blanquetteof 71 
 
 creamed 71 
 
 ■curried 71 
 
 French style 72 
 
 fricassee of 71 
 
 fried, with marrow 71 
 
 glazed, on toast 71 
 
 ketchup 72 
 
 and onion salad 72 
 
 pickled 72 
 
 pureeof .71 
 
 salad 72 & 151 
 
 sauce 157 
 
 stuffed, with forcemeat 71 
 
 Cumin 72 
 
 Cup custards, chocolatn 67 
 
 ices 96 
 
 Curacoa 65 & 72 
 
 sauce 168 
 
 Curd 72 
 
 Curing 72 
 
 Currants 72 
 
 dried 72 
 
 Curry 72 
 
 Bauce 167 
 
 of veal 173 
 
 Custard 72 
 
 apple 3 
 
 cheese 44 
 
 fritters 83 
 
 sauce .... 168 
 
 royal 149 
 
 Cutlets 72 
 
 Czarina sauce 72 & 157 
 
 Damson 72 
 
 Dandelion 7:i 
 
 salad 151 
 
 Danish beef and pork sausage 137 
 
 liver sausage 138 
 
 smoked sausage 137 
 
 Darioles 73 
 
 Dame 73 
 
 de saumoD 73 
 
 D'Artois 73 
 
 (garnish) 86 
 
 Dates 73 
 
 Date pudding 73 
 
 Daube 73 
 
 Dauphine 73 
 
 (garnish) 86 
 
 Demi-glaze 73 
 
 Dent-de-lion 73 
 
D-E 
 
 E-F 
 
 Page 
 
 Devils 73 
 
 Devilled almonds 1 
 
 crabs 68 
 
 lobster 101 
 
 oysters 121 
 
 rabbit 147 
 
 Dewberries 18 
 
 Diable sauce 168 
 
 Dlnblotins 73 
 
 Diamond back 73 
 
 Digest, medical table of time 73 
 
 Digestion 73 
 
 Dindon 74 
 
 Di plomate sauce 158 
 
 Dolmas 74 
 
 Doucette (corn salad) 67 
 
 Dougnbirds 74 
 
 Drawn butter 26 
 
 Dressing, cream 154 
 
 French 154 
 
 Hollandalse 164 
 
 Dry stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Duchesse (garnish) 80 
 
 sauce 158 
 
 Damns (garnish) 80 
 
 Dumplings, apple 3 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 peach 128 
 
 Durand (garnish) 80 
 
 Dutch sauce 76 
 
 D' Uxolles 70 & 158 
 
 Duck, boiled , parsley sauce 74 
 
 boned stuffed, with aspic. 74 
 
 braised, with sauerkraut 75 
 
 " with vegetables 75 
 
 curry, with rice 75 
 
 Ducks and ducklings 74 
 
 Ducks' giblet soup 70 
 
 " stewed, in border 76 
 
 Ducks' livers, brochette of 22 & 76 
 
 scallops 76 
 
 Duck, roast, orange sauce .... 74 
 
 " with peas, Hanover sauc 74 
 
 Duck, salpicon of, in cases 75 
 
 Duck, salmis of, in croustade 7; 
 
 " " with fried hominy.. 75 
 
 Duck, saute of , with cheBtnuts 75 
 
 " " with noodles 76 
 
 " " with olives 75 
 
 Duck, stewed, with green peas 7f> 
 
 '■ with puree of peas.... 76 
 " with stuffed tomatoes. 70 
 
 " with turnips 75 
 
 Duck, Btuffed, Italian sauce 76 
 
 Duckling, broiled, with devilled buttr 14 
 
 fillets of, macedoine 76 
 
 fried fillets of, sauce bigarade.. 70 
 
 stuffed, orange sauce 70 
 
 Ears, pig's 131 
 
 Kcarlate .. 77 
 
 Ecarlette (garnish) 87 
 
 Eclairs 57 & 77 
 
 Eel-pout 78 
 
 Eel salad 77 & 151 
 
 Eels 77 
 
 baked, London style 77 
 
 boiled, maitre d'hotel 77 
 
 brochette of 22 
 
 broiled boned 77 
 
 braised, Allemande sauce 77 
 
 fricassee of 77 
 
 fried, shrimp sauce 77 
 
 grilled, London style 77 
 
 matelote of 77 
 
 orly of 77 
 
 roast, anchovy butter 77 
 
 stewed, London style 77 
 
 Egg patties 78 
 
 powder 6 
 
 rarebit 78 
 
 salad 151 
 
 sauce 158 
 
 Eggs 78 
 
 breaded, Creole sauce 79 
 
 with brown butter 7v> 
 
 with caviar 79 
 
 in croustade 79 
 
 curried 
 
 devilled 78 
 
 fricassee ef 79 
 
 au gratin 78 
 
 Indian style 
 
 masked, Madeira sauce 78 
 
 molded, provencale sauce 78 
 
 with onion puree 79 
 
 poached 78 
 
 salpicon of 79 
 
 scrambled 78 
 
 " In cases 79 
 
 " with tomatoes 79 
 
 Pa^e 
 
 Eggs, shirred 78 
 
 stuffed 78 
 
 '• with caviar 40 
 
 Egg plant, broiled, on toast 80 
 
 " with cheese 80 
 
 " fried 80 
 
 " fritters 80 
 
 " salad 151 
 
 " stewed 80 
 
 '• stuffed 80 
 
 " Turkish style 80 
 
 Emince of crab 68 
 
 En caisse 28 
 
 Endive 80 
 
 salad 151 
 
 English beef soup 13 
 
 Eplgramme 8U 
 
 Epping sausage — 139 
 
 Bspagnole sauce.. ..' 81 & 158 
 
 Extracts 81 
 
 Extract of Aniseed 81 
 
 of bitter almond 81 
 
 of cinnamon 81 
 
 of cloves 81 
 
 of lemon 81 
 
 of sarsaparilla 81 
 
 of vanilla 81 
 
 of wintergreen 81 
 
 Fanoy fry (oysters) 122 
 
 Farina 81 
 
 pudding, baked 81 
 
 " boiled 81 
 
 fritters 81 
 
 Fat, fresh lard-back 131 
 
 pigs gut 131 
 
 pigs kidney 131 
 
 Fennel 81 
 
 sauce 81 & 168 
 
 Fermiere (garnish) 87 
 
 F r 
 
 - lgs. 
 
 81 
 
 Flnanciere 81 
 
 sauce 158 
 
 (garnish) 87 
 
 Fine herbs 81 
 
 sauce 158 
 
 Finnan haddie 81 
 
 " baked 81 
 
 " " Aberdeen style.. 93 
 
 " " butter sauce 93 
 
 " '■ with tomatoes... 93 
 
 '• boiled 81 
 
 " " cream sauce 93 
 
 " broiied 81 
 
 " " lobster butter... 93 
 
 •' Delmonico style 81 
 
 " saute, parsley sauce... 93 
 
 Flageolets 9 & 82 
 
 Flamande (garnish) 87 
 
 Flannel cakes 82 
 
 Flannel griddle cakes 8 
 
 Flemish sauce 158 
 
 Float, chocolate 57 
 
 Flounders 82 
 
 Flour, graham 90 
 
 Foie-gras.. : 82 
 
 bouchee of 20 
 
 Fonds d'artichauts a l'ltallenne 6 
 
 " a la Montglas 5 
 
 " a la Strasbourg. . 5 
 
 '• a la Supreme 5 
 
 Fondu 82 
 
 Forbidden fruit 91 
 
 Forcemeat ■ 82 
 
 Forcemeat balls, chicken, curried, 
 
 with rice 50 
 
 " liver 32 
 
 Forcemeat, brain 24 
 
 chestnut 40 
 
 chicken 50 & 82 
 
 " fried, tomato sauce 63 
 
 " liver 54 
 
 " quenelle 51 
 
 clam 
 
 crab 68 
 
 ham aDd liver 82 
 
 veal 82 
 
 Fore hams or Callforbia shoulders. . .132 
 
 Fowl, boudin of : 21 
 
 Frangipane 82 
 
 Frankf oris 82 
 
 Frankfort sausages (weinerwurst >. ..140 
 
 Frappe 82 
 
 French dressing 82 & 154 
 
 French salad 151 
 
 Frlantine 82 
 
 Fricadelles: also called Fricandelles. 82 
 
 Fricandeau 82 
 
 Fries, lamb 99 
 
 Fritters 82 
 
 apple 3 & 83 
 
 F-G 179 
 
 Fritters, apple custard. g y 
 
 anchovy ..fj 2 
 
 apricot 4 & 83 
 
 artichoke 5 
 
 banana 7 
 
 brioche ...!!! 73 
 
 candied peel , .... 82 
 
 celery 41 
 
 cheese 44 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 chicken, piquante sauce 53 
 
 clam f8 
 
 chocolate 83 
 
 chocolate cream 51; 
 
 confiture t.'i 
 
 corn 06&83 
 
 crab os 
 
 cream 70 
 
 custard £3 
 
 egg-plant 80 
 
 farina 81 
 
 fruit g3 
 
 German 83 
 
 orange 83 & 119 
 
 oyster plant 124 
 
 parsnip 83 * 12a 
 
 peach 83 & 123 
 
 pineapple 83 
 
 potato 143 
 
 Queen .. 13 
 
 rhubarb 14<) 
 
 rice 83 
 
 Spanish puff 83 
 
 Frogs 83 
 
 fried, tartar sauce 83 
 
 omelet, Southern style 81 
 
 Frogs legs, broiled 83 
 
 " fricassee of 83 
 
 " saute, bordelaise 84 
 
 " " poulette 84 
 
 " " provencale 84 
 
 " Southern style 84 
 
 " stewed, with peas 83 
 
 Fruit fritters 83 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 Fumet sauce 159 
 
 Galantines 84 
 
 Galantine of turkey 170 
 
 Gall (pig's) 131 
 
 Game 84 
 
 bouchee of ... 20 
 
 boulettes of 21 
 
 salad 11 2 
 
 puree, bouchee with 20 
 
 Garden parties 84 
 
 Gardener's salad 151 
 
 Garfish 65 
 
 Garlic 85 
 
 butter ?o 
 
 Garnishes 85 
 
 Garnish, admiral 85 
 
 Af ricaine 86 
 
 Allemande 85 
 
 Andalouse 85 
 
 Anglaise 85 
 
 D'Artols. . • 86 
 
 Aurore ■ 85 
 
 Bayard go 
 
 Bohemienne 86 
 
 Bordelaise 86 
 
 Bourgeoise 86 
 
 Bourglgnonne 86 
 
 bourglgnotte 86 
 
 Bretonne 86 
 
 cardinal 86 
 
 chambord 86 
 
 cbipolata 86 
 
 chivry 86 
 
 Dauphine 86 
 
 Duchesse 80 
 
 Dumas 86 
 
 Durand 86 
 
 ecarlate 87 
 
 fermiere 87 
 
 flnanciere 87 
 
 flamande . 87 
 
 godard 87 
 
 gourmet 87 
 
 Greque 87 
 
 Hussard 87 
 
 Journeaux 87 
 
 au jus Hi 
 
 macedoine s? 
 
 Mariniere 87 
 
 matelote 87 
 
 Milanalse » 7 
 
 mushroom 1(8 
 
 Napolltaine 87 
 
 Nivervaise 87 
 
 Parlsienne 88 
 
180 G 
 
 Page 
 
 Garnish, paysanne 87 
 
 perigueux 87 
 
 provencale 88 
 
 Regency 88 
 
 Kichelieu 88 
 
 Rouennaise 88 
 
 Royale ... 88 
 
 soublse 88 
 
 Stanley 89 
 
 supreme 89 
 
 tortu 89 
 
 Toulouse 89 
 
 Geese livers, brochette of 22 
 
 Gems, corn 66 
 
 Geneveise sauce... 159 
 
 Genoise sauce 159 
 
 German fritters 83 
 
 potato salad 152 
 
 sauce 159 
 
 salad 151 
 
 Gherkins 89 
 
 Giblets 89 
 
 pie 54 & 89 
 
 pot pie 54 
 
 and potato pie 54 
 
 ragout of, with potato croqueus 89 
 
 sauce 54&89&lo9 
 
 soup 89 
 
 •' clear 89 
 
 " with rice 89 
 
 stewed, with green peas 89 
 
 Glaze 89 
 
 Globe artichokes, Colbert sauce 5 
 
 " stuffed 5 
 
 Godard sauce 159 
 
 (garnish) 87 
 
 Godiveau 82 & 89 
 
 Goiden buck 43 
 
 sauce 159 
 
 Goose 89 
 
 boiled, with pickled pork 90 
 
 braised, with sausages 90 
 
 " with vegetables 90 
 
 with kraut, German style 90 
 
 roast, apple sauce 90 
 
 ■' green, gooseberry sauce.. 90 
 
 " with oyster stuffing 90 
 
 " stuffed with chestnuts... 90 
 " stuffed with godiveau. . . 90 
 
 stuffed, with glazed apples 90 
 
 " with glazed turnips — 90 
 
 Goose liver sausage, truffled 140 
 
 Gooseberry sauce 90 & 159 
 
 Gorgonzola 90 
 
 Goulash 97 
 
 Gourmet (garnish) 87 
 
 Graham flour 90 
 
 griddle cakes 8 
 
 Grape fruit 91 
 
 jam 90 
 
 jelly 90 
 
 Grapes, frosted 90 
 
 Grayling 91 
 
 Green corn batter cakes 67 
 
 " roast 67 
 
 " saute 67 
 
 Green grape jelly 91 
 
 Green pea sou p 1 29 
 
 Green turtle soup 171 
 
 Greengage 91 
 
 Green and wax beans 9 
 
 Grenadins 91 
 
 Greque (garnish) 87 
 
 Griddle cakes 8 
 
 Grouper 92 
 
 baked, Gulf style 92 
 
 boiled, caper sauce 92 
 
 " matelote garnish 92 
 
 saute, lobster sauce 92 
 
 stuffed and baked, tomato sauc 92 
 
 Grouse 91 
 
 broiled, with bacon 91 
 
 braised, with glazed carrots — 91 
 
 cutlets breadcrumbed 92 
 
 glazed, sauce trianon 91 
 
 roast, bread sauce 91 
 
 " hunters style 91 
 
 " Scotchstyle 91 
 
 salmis of- 91 
 
 stewed, with green peas 91 
 
 stuffed fillets of, with quenelles 91 
 
 " mushroom sauce 91 
 
 Gruel, corn meal 60 
 
 Gruyere or Swiss (cheese) 92 
 
 Guava 92 
 
 Guinea hen 92 
 
 " braised stuffed 92 
 
 " broiled, with bacon 92 
 
 " roast larded 92 
 
 " " sauce Bearnaise... 92 
 
 G-H 
 
 Page 
 
 Gumbo 92 
 
 chicken 55 
 
 crab 69 
 
 oyster 124 
 
 Gut fat (pigs) 131 
 
 Haddock 92 
 
 baked stuffed 92 
 
 boiled, oyster sauce 92 
 
 broiled fresh, anchovy butter.. 93 
 
 creamed, with oysters 93 
 
 fillets of, breadcrmb'd, Dutch bc 93 
 
 " " saute 93 
 
 Haggis 93 
 
 Hair (pigs) 13 1 
 
 Halibut 93 
 
 baked, egg sauce 93 
 
 boiled 93 
 
 creamed, with mushrooms 93 
 
 Halibut steak, boiled, cream sauce.. 93 
 
 '• broiled 93 
 
 " creamed, with musbr's 93 
 
 " fried, with bacon 93 
 
 " saute, tomato sauce.. 93 
 
 Ham 94 
 
 boiled, with lima beans 91 
 
 braised, with vegetables 94 
 
 croquettes of, with green peas.. 94 
 
 and liver forcemeat 82 
 
 minced, with egg 94 
 
 Hams 130 
 
 pickling 130 
 
 " ofrolled i32 
 
 Ham, roast, champagne sauce 94 
 
 " stuffed 91 
 
 sauce 159 
 
 stewed, with spinach 94 
 
 Hamburg steak with onions 13 
 
 " tomatoed 13 
 
 Hamburger 94 
 
 tomatoed 94 
 
 Hanover sauce 159 
 
 Hard sauce 159 
 
 Hare 94 
 
 braised, with game croquettes. 94 
 
 boudinof 21 
 
 civet of, hunters style 94 
 
 cutlets of , piquante sauce 95 
 
 fillets of, sautes 95 
 
 " " polvrade sauce 94 
 
 '• " tomato sauce 9 
 
 fried fillets of 95 
 
 jugged 95 
 
 larded saddles of 95 
 
 scallops of, with fine herbs 95 
 
 '• " with tongue, sauce 
 
 perigueux 95 
 
 stuffed saddle of , with jelly — 94 
 
 Haricot beans, Boston style 9 
 
 " with bacon 9 
 
 " cream sauce 9 
 
 " puree 9 
 
 Haricot soup, family style 9 
 
 Harrogate sauce 159 
 
 Hash, beef 14 
 
 chicken, with peppers, on toast. 53 
 '• with stuffed peppers.. 53 
 
 corned beef . 15 
 
 salt codfish, New Kngland style 62 
 Hashed chicken and ham with rice.. 54 
 
 Havraise sauce 159 
 
 Heart, pigs 131 
 
 Heath fowl, salmis of 19 
 
 Herbs, fine 81 
 
 Herring 95 
 
 baked fresh, fennel sauce 95 
 
 " stuffed 95 
 
 bisque of 17 
 
 boiled fresh cream sauce 9 
 
 " fresh, shrimp sauce 95 
 
 boned fresh , on toast 95 
 
 broiled fresh, mustard sauce... 95 
 
 curried fresh, with eggs 95 
 
 fried fresh, mustard butter 95 
 
 salad 152 
 
 soused 95 
 
 Hickory 96 
 
 Hoe cakes 96 
 
 Hollandalse dressing "54 
 
 sauce 159 
 
 Horseradish 96 
 
 butter 26 & 96 
 
 stuice 159 
 
 Hominy 96 
 
 boiled 96 
 
 croquettes 96 
 
 Honey, quince 1*6 
 
 Hoofs (pigs) 131 
 
 Hot slaw 27 
 
 Hot pot or notch potch 96 
 
 Hulled corn 66 
 
 H-l-J-K-L 
 
 Pag8 
 
 Hunter's style 145 
 
 Hussard (garnish) 87 
 
 Ice, apple 3 
 
 Ice cream 70 
 
 banana 7 
 
 chocolate 67 
 
 coffee 62 
 
 peach 128 
 
 Iced froths 96 
 
 peaches 128 
 
 snowballs 96 
 
 Ices, cup 9ti 
 
 Imperial 96 
 
 orange 96 
 
 Icing, chocolate 57 
 
 Imperial Ices 96 
 
 Indian canapes 35 
 
 omelet 117 
 
 pudding 60 
 
 stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Indienne sauce 159 
 
 Irish moss 96 
 
 Irish stew 96 & 1 1 1 
 
 Isinglass 97 
 
 Italian salad 152 
 
 sauce, white and brown 160 
 
 Jaok rabbit, bisque of 17 
 
 Jam, apricot 4 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 cranberry 69 
 
 grape 90 
 
 orange 119 
 
 rhubarb 148 
 
 Jardiniere (garnish) 97 
 
 sauce 160 
 
 Jellied oranges 119 
 
 Jelly 97 
 
 apricot 97 
 
 aspic 6 
 
 blackberry 97 
 
 calf's feet 30 
 
 cranberry 69 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 fruit 97 
 
 grape 90 
 
 green grape 91 
 
 lemon 97 
 
 macedoine • 91 
 
 orange 97 
 
 peach 127 
 
 pineapple 97 
 
 pistachio 97 
 
 plum 135 
 
 quince 146 
 
 raspberry 97 
 
 rhubarb 148 
 
 ribbon 97 
 
 Russian 97 
 
 strawberry 97 
 
 West Indian 97 
 
 Jennie Lind pancakes 8 
 
 Johnny cake 66 
 
 " apple 3 
 
 Jolie fllle sauce 160 
 
 Journeaux (garnish) 87 
 
 Jugged hare 95 
 
 Julienne 97 
 
 Juniper 97 
 
 Kale 97 
 
 salad 152 
 
 Ketchup, cucumber 72 
 
 Khulash or goulash 97 
 
 Kidney beans 9 
 
 " in cream 9 
 
 " English style 9 
 
 " French style 9 
 
 " German style 9 
 
 " panaches .. 9 
 
 Kidneys 97 
 
 fat (pigs) 131 
 
 pigs 131 
 
 Kirsch or klrschenwasser 6 i 
 
 Kirschwasser 98 
 
 Klngflsh 97 
 
 boiled, sauce Normande 97 
 
 broiled, lemon butter 97 
 
 withflre herbs 97 
 
 fried fillets of, breadcrumbed.. 98 
 
 saute, sauce Colbert 98 
 
 Knockpolse or hard smoked Danlth 
 
 sausage 137 
 
 Kohl -rabl 98 
 
 Koumiss 98 
 
 Kromeskies 71 & 98 
 
 of sweetbreads 167 
 
 Kummel 65 & 98 
 
 Lake trout fried, tomato sauce 168 
 
 Lamb, blanquette of 98 
 
 boiled 98 
 
 braised — 98 
 
L 
 
 Page 
 
 Lamb, curried 98 
 
 cutlets of 99 
 
 emlnoe of 99 
 
 eplgramme of 98 
 
 fricassee of 98 
 
 bashed, with poached egg 99 
 
 fries 99 
 
 " brochette of 23 
 
 kidneys, brochette of 21 
 
 noisettes of, a la Malntenon — 114 
 
 ragout of 99 
 
 roast 98 
 
 saute of 98 
 
 scallops of, with rice 99 
 
 stewed 98 
 
 " garnished 99 
 
 sweetbreads in cases 99 
 
 Larding pork 131 
 
 Larks, bouchee of 21 
 
 Lasagnes 99 
 
 Leek 99 
 
 soup, Scotch style 99 
 
 Leeks, boiled 99 
 
 Lemons 100 
 
 cream ,. ..100 
 
 dumplings 1U0 
 
 extract of 81 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 marmalade 100 
 
 mincemeat 100 
 
 sauce 100 
 
 soup 100 
 
 trifle 100 
 
 Lentils 100 
 
 cream of 100 
 
 soup 100 
 
 Lettuce 100 
 
 baked stuffed 101 
 
 and cucumber salad 101 
 
 and onion salad 100 
 
 salad 100 & 152 
 
 and tomato salad 100 
 
 Leverpolse or liver sausage 137 
 
 Leverpostej, llverwurst or Danish 
 
 liver sausage 138 
 
 Lima beans boiled 8 
 
 cream of 9 
 
 puree 9 
 
 " of 146 
 
 salad 9&152 
 
 saute 8 
 
 Limej ulcer 101 
 
 Limes 101 
 
 Llmburger cheese 43 
 
 Liver 101 
 
 cheese, Italian style 31 
 
 curried, with forcemeat 101 
 
 f oroemeat balls 32 
 
 fried, with onions 101 
 
 klosse 32 
 
 pigs 131 
 
 pudding 101 
 
 ragout of 101 
 
 and salt pork 101 
 
 saute of 101 
 
 sausage 137 & 140 
 
 Llvernalse sauce 160 
 
 Livournaise sauce* 160 
 
 Liverwurst sausage 138 
 
 Lobster in aspic cream 101 
 
 baked, in shell 102 
 
 bisque of 17 & 103 
 
 Bordelalse 102 
 
 bouchee of 50 & 102 
 
 brochette of 22 & 102 
 
 broiled live 102 
 
 butter 26 
 
 cheese 101 
 
 croquettes 102 
 
 curried 102 
 
 cutlets 102 
 
 devilled 101 
 
 escailoped 102 
 
 fricassee of 102 
 
 au gratln 101 
 
 mayonnaise of 101 
 
 mazarlnsof 101 
 
 mlroton of 101 
 
 mulligatawney 103 
 
 Newburg 102 
 
 omolet 102 
 
 and oyster pie 102 
 
 patties 102 
 
 rissoles of 102 
 
 salad 101&152 
 
 salpicon of 102 
 
 sandwich 102 
 
 sauce 160 
 
 scalloped 101 
 
 soup 103 
 
 L-M 
 
 Page 
 
 Lobster soup, Creole style 103 
 
 " Mariner's style 103 
 
 stewed 102 
 
 stuffed 102 
 
 toast 102 
 
 with tomatoes 102 
 
 Locusts 103 
 
 Lungs, pigs 131 
 
 Lyons sausage 140 
 
 Lyonnalse sauce 160 
 
 Macaroni 103 
 
 baked, and sheese 103 
 
 buttered 104 
 
 and sheese, French style 103 
 
 " " plain 103 
 
 creamed 04 
 
 " with eggs 104 
 
 Creole style 103 
 
 croquettes 1' 4 
 
 with fish flakes 104 
 
 Qenoise style 104 
 
 au gratln 103 
 
 with ham 104 
 
 Italian style 103 
 
 with lamb kidneys 104 
 
 with oyster butter 104 
 
 as the Monks like it 103 
 
 and oysters, Milan style 103 
 
 pudding 104 
 
 with sausages 104 
 
 soup 104 
 
 with spinach puree 104 
 
 tlmbalesof 104 
 
 " " and forcemeat 104 
 
 and tomatoes 103 
 
 with tomato puree 104 
 
 Mace 105 
 
 Macedoine 105 
 
 (garnish) 87 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 salad 162 
 
 Mackerel 105 
 
 baked fillets of 106 
 
 " stuffed fillets of 105 
 
 boiled 105 
 
 " salt 105 
 
 broiled salt 105 
 
 " stuffed 105 
 
 buttered 106 
 
 fillets of. sautes 105 
 
 fried, butter sauce 105 
 
 soused 106 
 
 Madeira 105 
 
 sauce 160 
 
 Madelines 105 
 
 Madras canapes 36 
 
 Malntenon sauce 160 
 
 Maitre d'hotel butter 26 
 
 sauce 105 & 160 
 
 Mallard 105 
 
 broiled, maitre d'hotel 106 
 
 fillets of. game sauce 106 
 
 fried, orange sauce 106 
 
 salmis of 106 
 
 provencale style 105 
 
 roast, American style .105 
 
 Mango 106 
 
 Maraschino 65 & 106 
 
 Marinade 106 
 
 Marlniere (garnish) 87 
 
 Margarine 26 
 
 Marjoram 106 
 
 Marmalade 1C6 & 134 
 
 apple 3 
 
 apricot 4 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 orange 119 
 
 peach 127 
 
 quince 146 
 
 Marrons 106 
 
 Marrow 1C6 
 
 bouchee with 20 
 
 Marzipan 106 
 
 Mastic 106 
 
 Matelote (garnish) 87 & 106 
 
 sauce 160 
 
 Mayonnaise 106 
 
 aspic 107 
 
 of celery 41 
 
 chicken 56 & 151 
 
 of lobster 101 
 
 of sal m on 155 
 
 sauce 161 
 
 Mazariis — 107 
 
 of lobster 101 
 
 Meat olives (pauplettes) 127 
 
 Medallions 107 
 
 Melons 107 
 
 Melon preserve 107 
 
 M 
 
 iai 
 
 Page 
 
 Menu 107 
 
 Meringue 107 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 Mignons de boeuf auxtru ttles 15 
 
 Mllanaise (garnish) t7 & 107 
 
 omelet 117 
 
 sauce 161 
 
 Milt 107 
 
 Mincemeat 107 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 Mint 107 
 
 sauce Kil 
 
 Mook turtle soup, clear 29 
 
 " thick 29 
 
 Molasses 108 
 
 Montpelier butter 26 
 
 Mosaic sausage 139 
 
 Muffins, corn t't; 
 
 Mullet 108 
 
 Mulligatawny, lobster 103 
 
 Muscallonge 109 
 
 Mushrooms 108 
 
 baked, on toast 108 
 
 bouchee with 21 
 
 broiled 1(8 
 
 catsup 109 
 
 creamed fresh 1( 8 
 
 in oioustades 108 
 
 fricassee of 108 & 119 
 
 garnish 118 
 
 omelet 109 
 
 puree of 108 & 146 
 
 rissoles 109 
 
 sauce 108 
 
 ■' (brown and white) 161 
 
 saute of 108 
 
 stewed 108 
 
 stuffed, Creole style 108 
 
 " Italian sauce 108 
 
 " on toast 1(9 
 
 Mussels 109 
 
 breaded, villeroi sauce 109 
 
 brochette of 22 & 109 
 
 creamed 1 09 
 
 fisherman style 109 
 
 fricassee of 109 
 
 fried 109 
 
 Italian style. . 109 
 
 pan roast of 109 
 
 sauce 1C9 
 
 sautes of fine herbs It 9 
 
 scalloped 109 
 
 steamed, lemon butter sauce.. .109 
 
 stewed 1( 9 
 
 Mustard ll'J 
 
 and cress 110 
 
 Mutton 1 10 
 
 boiled leg of 110 
 
 " with turuips Ill 
 
 Mutton, braised breast of, Italian sc 111 
 
 larded leg of 110 
 
 " leg of 110 
 
 " " '• with beans . ..110 
 
 " " " with veget'blslll 
 
 " boned loin of 1:3 
 
 " stuffed leg of lie 
 
 Mutton, breast of, with turnips Ill 
 
 brochette of 22 
 
 broiled breasts of 1 11 
 
 casseroles of 112 
 
 Mutton chop, breaded, beans puree. 112 
 " "mushroom pureell2 
 
 " " perigueux saucellS 
 
 " braised, garnished.... 113 
 
 " broiled, garnished 114 
 
 " with buttered corn 113 
 
 " fried, Italian sauce... 112 
 " withglazedBewcarotsll2 
 
 " with peas puree 112 
 
 " with potato border 112 
 
 " provence style 112 
 
 " saute, sauce Soublse.. 112 
 
 " Southern style 112 
 
 " wlthtruffles 112 
 
 Mutton, coated cutlets of 112 
 
 croustades of, with poached egg! 13 
 
 curry of , with rice 1 1 
 
 Mutton cutlets, baked, with apples. .112 
 " fried, reformegarnlshll3 
 " saute, with fine herbs 113 
 
 Mutton, fried breast of HI 
 
 glazed breast of HI 
 
 haricot of Ill 
 
 hashed , with peppers 112 & 11 3 
 
 Dolsettes of, au Madere 1 14 
 
 pie, English style 113 
 
 ragout of, with tomatoes Ill 
 
 rissoles of. sauce Hollandalse. .112 
 
 roast leg of HO 
 
 rolled shoulder of, oyster saucelll 
 
l82 
 
 M-N-O 
 
 Page 
 
 Mutton, rolled stuffed breast of Ill 
 
 stew with vegetables 113 
 
 stuffed breast of, sauce Robert 111 
 
 Nantaise sauce 161 
 
 Napolitaine (garnish) 87 
 
 sauce 161 
 
 Nasturtium Ill 
 
 Navarin Ill 
 
 Neapolitan bricks 66 
 
 sauce 161 
 
 Nectar 66 
 
 Negus 65 
 
 Neptune cocktail 60 
 
 Nesselrode HI 
 
 Neufchatel 114 
 
 Niceoise sauce 161 
 
 Nivernaise 1 14 
 
 (garnish) 87 
 
 Noisette 114 
 
 Noisettes d'agneau 114 
 
 de veau 114 
 
 Nonpareil sauce 161 
 
 Noodles 114 
 
 Normande sauce 161 
 
 Noyeaa 65 & 114 
 
 Nutmeg 114 
 
 Oatmeal 114 
 
 Oberland liver sausage 141 
 
 Oeuf s a la cocotte 59 
 
 Okra 115 
 
 salad 115 & 153 
 
 Olives 115 
 
 canapes 35 
 
 meat (paupiettes) 127 
 
 Ollapodrida 115 
 
 bmelet 115 
 
 Algerienne 117 
 
 anchovy 2 
 
 with anchovies 117 
 
 apricot 4 
 
 artichoke 5 
 
 asparagus 6 
 
 with asparagus points 80 & 116 
 
 with bacon 79 & 115 
 
 with Brussels sprouts 25 
 
 with calf's brains 117 
 
 with calf's htad 29 & 117 
 
 calf's kidney 31 
 
 with capon 117 
 
 with cepes 42 & 79 & 118 
 
 cheese 44 
 
 with oheese 9 & 115 
 
 of chicken livers 54 & 79 & 115 
 
 with chicken puree 117 
 
 chipolata 117 
 
 with chipped beef 79 & 115 
 
 crab 68 
 
 Creole 80 & 117 
 
 with custard cream 117 
 
 witheggplant SO & 1 16 
 
 flnanclere 17 
 
 with fine herbs 79 & 116 
 
 with foie gras Ill 
 
 with French or small green 
 
 peas SO & 116 
 
 frog, Southern style 84 
 
 with bam 79 & 116 
 
 Indian 117 
 
 with jelly 117 
 
 withlambkidneys 79&116 
 
 lobster 102 
 
 with marmalade 117 
 
 with meringue 117 
 
 Milanaise 117 
 
 with minced chicken S0& 116 
 
 mushroom 09 
 
 with mushrooms 79 & 116 
 
 with olives 80 & 1 16 
 
 with onions 116 
 
 oyster 123 
 
 with oysters 80 & 116 
 
 with parsley 80 & 1 16 
 
 wlih puree of game 117 
 
 with rum 117 
 
 savory, of calf's brains 25 
 
 with scallops 117 
 
 shrimp 117 
 
 with shrimps, Mexican sty 79 & 116 
 
 with shrimp paste 117 
 
 souffle 117 
 
 Spanish 80 & llfi 
 
 with spinach 80 & 116 
 
 with spring vegetables. ... F0 & 116 
 
 with sweetbreads 79&11H 
 
 withtomatoes 80 & 1 16 
 
 with tomatoed rice 80 & 116 
 
 with truffles 117 
 
 with turkey livers 117 
 
 with veal kidneys 79 & 1 15 
 
 Onions baked, stuffed 118 
 
 Onions, boiled 118 
 
 braised 1 18 
 
 creamed 118 
 
 in cream sauce 118 
 
 fried 118 
 
 glazed 118 
 
 pickled 118 
 
 puree of 145 
 
 Onion puree 1'8 
 
 " brown 119 
 
 " with fish quenelles :119 
 
 Onion salad US & 152 
 
 Onion sauce - 118 
 
 " white and brown 161 
 
 Onion soup with cheese canapes 118 
 
 " with crusts 118 
 
 Onions on toast 118 
 
 stewed 118 
 
 vinegar 118 
 
 Opossum 119 
 
 Oranges, bouchee of 21 
 
 compote of 119 
 
 canape of 119 
 
 fritters 83 & 119 
 
 ices 96 
 
 jam 119 
 
 jellied 119 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 marmalade 119 
 
 pie .119 
 
 baked, puddiug 119 
 
 with rice 119 
 
 sauce 119 & 161 
 
 trifle 11« 
 
 Ortolan 119 
 
 broiled 120 
 
 bouchee of 21 
 
 brochetteof 120 
 
 in cases 120 
 
 In croustade 120 
 
 fried 120 
 
 roast liO 
 
 truffled 120 
 
 Ox tails, btaised, with kidney beans. 16 
 
 clear 13 
 
 curried, with spaghetti 16 
 
 curry of 120 
 
 haricot of 16 & 120 
 
 saute of 120 
 
 soup 120 
 
 " clear 120 
 
 thick 13 
 
 Oxtongue, boiled ...120 
 
 " braised fresh 121 
 
 " pickling of 132 
 
 " smoked, German style. ..121 
 
 Ox palates, bouchee with 21 
 
 Oysters, bacon-coated, fried 122 
 
 Oysters, baked, with cheese 122 
 
 " Italian style .123 
 
 " with mushrooms 122 
 
 " with potatoes 122 
 
 bisque of 17 
 
 Boston stew 121 
 
 bouchees 124 
 
 bouchee of 20 
 
 breaded, celery sauce 121 
 
 brochette of 21 & 122 
 
 broiled 121 
 
 " breadcrumbed 121 
 
 " shell 121 
 
 canapes of . • 35 
 
 in casserole 123 
 
 with celery 123 
 
 cocktail 66 
 
 creamed on toast 123 
 
 cream stew 121 
 
 croquettes 123 
 
 croustade of 122 
 
 curried. 123 
 
 cutlets minced 124 
 
 devilled 121 
 
 dry stew 122 
 
 epigramme of 123 
 
 fancy fry 122 
 
 fricassee of 122 
 
 fried 122 
 
 glazed, on toast 122 
 
 gumbo 124 
 
 Indian 6tew 121 
 
 loaf ...122 
 
 omelet 123 
 
 patties 123 
 
 panned 121 
 
 Philadelphia stew 121 
 
 pie 123 
 
 plain stew 121 
 
 pot pie 123 
 
 rissoles 124 
 
 roast shell 121 
 
 O-P 
 
 Page 
 
 Oysters, salad 152 
 
 sandwich 124 
 
 sauce 123 & 161 
 
 sauce-coated, fried 122 
 
 scalloped 121 
 
 soup 124 
 
 steamed 122 
 
 stew 121 
 
 stuffed and broiled 122 
 
 stuffing 124 
 
 supreme of 123 
 
 toast 123 
 
 Oyster crabs, fried 69 
 
 " Newburg 69 
 
 " patties 69 
 
 " sauce poulette 69 
 
 Oyster pla»nt, boiled 124 
 
 " fried 124 
 
 " fritters 124 
 
 " salad 152 
 
 " sauce poulette 124 
 
 " saute 124 
 
 " stewed 124 
 
 Pancakes 1J4 
 
 apple 3 
 
 Berlin 73 
 
 French 8 
 
 Jenny Lind 8 
 
 Swiss 8 
 
 Panned oysters 121 
 
 Papillote sauce 162 
 
 Parisian (garnish) 88 
 
 Parmesan cheese 124 
 
 Parsley 124 
 
 sauce 161 
 
 Parsnip 15 
 
 baked 125 
 
 cream sauce 125 
 
 fried in batter . 125 
 
 fritters 83 & 125 
 
 mashed 125 
 
 sautees 125 
 
 Partridge with bacon, paisley sauce. lie* 
 
 bisque of 17 
 
 boiled 125 
 
 " garnished 126 
 
 braised, with cabbage 126 
 
 breadcrumbed and broiled 126 
 
 breast of, glared vegetables 126 
 
 " " larded and fried 125 
 
 " " saucecolbert 125 
 
 broiled 125 
 
 oroquettes, sauce perigueux. . 126 
 
 croustadesof 126 
 
 emince of 126 
 
 epigramme of, with mushrooms 125 
 
 fillets of, with crayfish 126 
 
 •' " Parisian style 126 
 
 bashed, with egg 126 
 
 larded and braised 125 
 
 patttes 126 
 
 rissoles, sauce Richelieu 126 
 
 roast 125 
 
 salad 126 & 153 
 
 salmi of 125 
 
 salpicon of 126 
 
 saute 125 
 
 " with rissoto 125 
 
 stewed 12G 
 
 Pascaline sauce 161 
 
 Paste, anchovy. 2 
 
 Patties, apricot 4 
 
 asparagus 6 
 
 beef , with mushrooms 14 
 
 brain 25 
 
 of calf's kidneys 31 
 
 of carp roes 38 
 
 celery 41 
 
 chicken, supreme sauce 51 
 
 codflsh tongue 62 
 
 egg 78 
 
 lobster 102 
 
 oyster 123 
 
 oyster crab 69 
 
 partridge 126 
 
 potato . . 143 
 
 of scrambled calf's sweetbr'ds . 33 
 
 of sweetbreads , 167 
 
 turkey 171 
 
 Paupiette 127 
 
 Paupiettes of cabbage 27 
 
 Paysanne (garnish) 87 
 
 Peach 127 
 
 ambrosia 127 
 
 butter 127 
 
 charlotte 128 
 
 chartreuse 128 
 
 cobbler 128 
 
 croutons with glazed fruits. . . • 128 
 dumplings 128 
 
183 
 
 Pa?e 
 
 Peach, fritters 83 & 12s 
 
 ice 128 
 
 jelly 127 
 
 marmalade I- < 
 
 pie 128 
 
 shortcake 18 
 
 tartlettes 128 
 
 trifle 128 
 
 Peaches, bouetaeo of 21 
 
 bottled 12S 
 
 brandy 127 
 
 compote of 127 
 
 with cream 137 
 
 iced 128 
 
 with rice 127 
 
 with rice croquettes 127 
 
 spiced 127 
 
 PeaDut 12ti 
 
 Pear 128 
 
 alligator 1 
 
 Peas 129 
 
 puree of 129 & 1 15 
 
 pudding 129 
 
 Pepper 129 
 
 butter 20 
 
 Peppermint 129 
 
 Pepper pot 129 
 
 Perch 129 
 
 Perlgueux (garnish) 87 
 
 (sauce) 129 & 101 
 
 Persimmon 129 
 
 Pheasant ISO 
 
 braised 130 
 
 broiled 130 
 
 roast 130 
 
 Philadelphia capon 37 
 
 Clam chowder 68 
 
 scrapple 164 
 
 stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Pie, apple 3 
 
 " custard 3 
 
 beefsieak and kidney 14 
 
 '• '• mushroom 14 
 
 " " oyster . 14 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 blackbird 18 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 " deep 45 
 
 chicken 4H 
 
 " small, French style 47 
 
 cod and oyster 123 
 
 " " " French style,.... 61 
 
 cranberry 69 
 
 gihlet 54 & 89 
 
 " and potato 54 
 
 lobster and oyster lo2 
 
 mutton, English style 113 
 
 orange 119 
 
 oyster 12r 
 
 i each 128 
 
 pigeon 13; 
 
 pumpkin 45 
 
 rabbit 147 
 
 rhubarb 148 
 
 steak and ojster 12:'. 
 
 veal and oyster 172 
 
 venison 173 
 
 Picallili 130 
 
 Pickle 130 
 
 Pickles 130 
 
 Pickle pumps 130 
 
 Pickled beets 16 
 
 ca'obage 27 
 
 cauliflower 40 
 
 cucumbers 72 
 
 onions 118 
 
 Pickling beef and bams ISO 
 
 for hams or Calif, shoulders 132 
 
 of ox tongues 132 
 
 of rolled hams 132 
 
 Pled de cochon 59 
 
 Pigeons 1 33 
 
 braised, with flageolets 134 
 
 " garnished 134 
 
 breasts of 134 
 
 compote of 133 
 
 croustade 133 
 
 curried '33 
 
 " with rice 133 
 
 fricassee of 134 
 
 larded, garnished 133 
 
 pie 133 
 
 potted 133 
 
 roast 1 33 
 
 " with tomatoes 134 
 
 salmis of 133 
 
 saute of 134 
 
 stewed, with mushrooms 133 
 
 stuffed, with potatoes 133 
 
 " with vegetables 133 
 
 Page 
 
 Pineapple fritters 83 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 Pintail 134 
 
 Pi qu ante (sauce) 134 & 102 
 
 Pistachio 131 
 
 jelly 97 
 
 Pig products 130 
 
 Pigs bladders 131 
 
 blood 131 
 
 bones 131 
 
 brain 131 
 
 caul 131 
 
 ears 131 
 
 feet 131 
 
 gall 131 
 
 gut fat 131 
 
 ham 131 
 
 head stuffed 131 
 
 heart 131 
 
 kidneys 131 
 
 " brochette of 131 
 
 kidney fat 131 
 
 liver 131 
 
 lungs 131 
 
 shoulders 131 
 
 skin 131 
 
 snout 131 
 
 spleen 131 
 
 stomach 131 
 
 tail 131 
 
 tongue 131 
 
 Plain stew (oyster) 121 
 
 Planked shad 164 
 
 Plovers, bisque of 17 
 
 breast of, en salmi 134 
 
 " " with sweetbreads 134 
 
 broiled, on toast 134 
 
 roast 134 
 
 Plum butter 134 
 
 cake 135 
 
 jelly 135 
 
 marmalade 134 
 
 pudding 135 
 
 Plums 134 
 
 bouchees of 21 
 
 Poivrade sauce 162 
 
 Polenta 60 
 
 Polish sausage — 141 
 
 Polonaise sauce 162 
 
 Pompano 135 
 
 Pop corn 67 
 
 Porgie 135 
 
 Pork and beans, baked 9 
 
 Pork, boned boiled salt leg of 130 
 
 Pork chops, broiled — 130 
 
 " fried 130 
 
 " sauteee 136 
 
 Pork, cold rolled belly of, stuffed olivel30 
 
 croquettes, anchovy sauce 136 
 
 emlnce of, with fried apples 130 
 
 fried salt with apples 136 
 
 " kidneys 130 
 
 larding 136 
 
 minced, with fried a pples 130 
 
 roast loin of 135 
 
 " legof 135 
 
 salt, with parsnips 136 
 
 sausages 130 & 141 
 
 sausage seasoning 141 
 
 stuffed leg of 136 
 
 Pork tenderloin , braised 135 
 
 broiled 135 
 
 " corned 135 
 
 " curried 135 
 
 stuffed 135 
 
 " with swett potatoes 135 
 
 Portuguese sauce 162 
 
 Potage a la comtesse 35 
 
 Potato casseroles 143 
 
 croquettes. 143 
 
 •' stuffed 143 
 
 fritters 143 
 
 patties 143 
 
 puffs 143 
 
 quenelles 143 
 
 ragout 143 
 
 salad 153 
 
 soup 144 
 
 Potatoes 142 
 
 Anglaise 144 
 
 baked in their skins 142 
 
 barigoule 144 
 
 Bernhardt 143 
 
 bignonne 144 
 
 when boiling 142 
 
 brabanconne 144 
 
 brabant 144 
 
 bretonne 144 
 
 broiled 143 
 
 In cases 143 
 
 Page 
 
 Potatoes, chateau 144 
 
 colbert 144 
 
 conde 144 
 
 cottage fried 142 
 
 Creole H ;i 
 
 curried 143 
 
 duchesse 143 
 
 to extract frost from 142 
 
 French fried .142 
 
 Oenevolse 144 
 
 German fried 142 
 
 glazed 143 
 
 home fried 142 
 
 gastronome 144 
 
 hashed brown 142 
 
 " in cream... 142 
 
 Hollandaise 143 
 
 Indienne 142 
 
 julienne 142 
 
 Lyonnaise 142 
 
 Marie 143 
 
 " 144 
 
 mail re d'hotel 143 
 
 Monaco 144 
 
 Navarraise 143 
 
 Orsinl 143 
 
 Farislenne 112 
 
 puree of 145 
 
 Reitz 14 
 
 saute 142 
 
 " home fried, cottage fried, 
 
 German fried 142 
 
 scalloped 142 
 
 in steaming 142 
 
 stewed with bacon 142 
 
 " in cream 142 
 
 " Parisienne 143 
 
 stuffed 143 
 
 Victor! a 143 
 
 villageoise 143 
 
 Pot pie, beef 14 
 
 chicken 46 
 
 giblet 54 
 
 oyster 123 
 
 Pot roast 10 
 
 Potted cheese 44 
 
 chicken for sandwiches f3 
 
 ham, canapes of 35 
 
 pigeon 133 
 
 rabbit 146 
 
 tongue, canapes of 35 
 
 Poulette 144 
 
 sauce 144 & 102 
 
 Pralines 67 
 
 Prairie chicken 144 
 
 broiled 144 
 
 " roasted 144 
 
 " salmis of 144 
 
 Prawns, bisque of 17 
 
 Preserve, melon. 107 
 
 Preserved pumpkin rind 145 
 
 Prickly pear 128 
 
 Provencal* (garnish) 88 
 
 sauce 145 & 162 
 
 Pudding, apple 3 
 
 baked farina 81 
 
 " orange 119 
 
 black 19 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 boiled farina 81 
 
 cheese 44 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 chocolate 57 
 
 date 73 
 
 farina, baked, boiled 81 
 
 grated corn 67 
 
 Indian 66 
 
 liver 101 
 
 macaroni 104 
 
 peas 129 
 
 plum 135 
 
 Puffs 145 
 
 apple 3 
 
 Pumpkin 145 
 
 baked 145 
 
 pie ....145 
 
 puree 145 
 
 rind, preserved 145 
 
 Punch 65 
 
 Roman .149 
 
 Puree 145 
 
 of artichokes 145 
 
 asparagas 6 
 
 of asparagus 145 
 
 beans with onions 9 
 
 of beans a la soubise 9 
 
 of Bermuda onions 118 
 
 brown onion 119 
 
 of carrots 145 
 
 of celery 146 
 
184 
 
 P-Q-R 
 
 1'uge 
 
 Puree of celery and onions 41 
 
 of chestnuts 145 
 
 of chicken 55 
 
 " " with torn a toed q 
 
 crecy 
 
 of cucumbers. 71 
 
 haricot beans 
 
 lima beans 
 
 of lima beans 
 
 of mushrooms .li 
 
 onion 
 
 " with tlsh quenelles. .11'.' 
 
 of onions 
 
 of peas 1 .' 
 
 pumpkin 
 
 ofseakale 146 
 
 of spinach .145 
 
 <if tomatoes 
 
 Quahaug in 
 
 yuall Ufl 
 
 roast — 
 
 Queen fritters flt 
 
 Quince honey Ufl 
 
 Jelly 
 
 marmalade Ufl 
 
 Kabblt, blanquctte <>r 147 
 
 boudln of 21 
 
 braised, with t>. Ufl 
 
 bmchette of 
 
 brollod K7 
 
 " saddle of 14H 
 
 curried with rice 
 
 cutlets, fried it 7 
 
 " tomato sauce 117 
 
 devilled It; 
 
 Bptgnunme of 117 
 
 rJllets garnished, sc. pcrlgucux. 117 
 
 fricassee of . Ufl 
 
 minced, on 
 
 pie 117 
 
 potted . ..Ufl 
 
 ragout of ..141 
 
 saute of 117 
 
 salplcon oj 
 
 Mil'. 1 bored, wltb onlooa . 
 
 ste 
 
 147 
 
 1 salad ||| 
 
 ltaifort sauce 
 
 Rameqalns, cheese 
 
 Haroblt, egg 
 
 Torkab n 
 
 Raspberries . 
 Raspberry jelly 
 
 vinegar 
 
 
 
 Havlgote butter 
 
 sauoe 
 
 Havloles 
 
 Reform sauce US 
 
 Regency (garnish) m 
 
 sauce 
 
 Red cabbage salad 
 
 .-towed, with sail-.. 
 Red grouper, baked, Spanish tana*).. 
 
 Red hurlcot beans \i 
 
 Red pepper Itfl 
 
 Redsnapper, baked 
 
 boiled.. ..Ufl 
 
 broiled 
 
 saute 
 
 stiitTcI 11^ 
 
 : ds, bouchoe of '.'1 
 
 brochette of 
 
 Relne Claude Bl 
 
 Hontoulado Sinn,. Iflj 
 
 Rhubarb compote IIS 
 
 wlthcu&tnr 148 
 
 fritters.... 14$ 
 
 Jam 
 
 Jelly .Ufl 
 
 nngue 149 
 
 pie .11- 
 
 Rlbbonjelly 
 
 Rloo I.' 
 
 tea 149 
 
 croustadesof 
 
 fritters 
 
 grlrtdlo cake-, 
 
 Rlceblrdn. t>< 21 
 
 Richelieu (gar: 88 
 
 sauce 
 
 Rissole* H'j 
 
 of sweetbreads 
 
 RIsBolettes . 
 
 Itobert sauce lt-'i 
 
 Roe H'.i 
 
 sauce ... lftf 
 
 Roll. cranberry 
 
 R-S 
 
 l'age 
 
 Roly poly 149 
 
 apple 3 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 Romaine salad Ufl 
 
 Roman punch U9 
 
 Roquefort cheese 14'. ; 
 
 Kiuennalse (garnish) 8fc 
 
 Roulade 14'." 
 
 I4S 
 
 Royal custards 14'.» 
 
 sauce 
 
 Roy ale (garnish 1 8t» 
 
 Russian Jelly i»7 
 
 salad 153 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Rye 150 
 
 Sage sauce Ii3 
 
 Salad, alligator pear 
 
 anchovy 
 
 artichoke lie 
 
 and onK n 
 " and toma'o ... 
 
 asparagus 
 
 and 1 
 
 " ami 6 
 
 banana 
 
 bean 
 
 boot and egg I 
 
 " and potato 
 
 cabbage 
 
 enrr 
 
 caullll.iw. r ... ..... i 
 
 celery 
 
 chicken 
 
 chicory 
 
 Ifltt 
 
 ibination 
 
 rn 
 
 cress 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 and orlon 
 
 dandelion 
 
 eel . 
 
 plant lsi 
 
 • ■■ . 
 Krencb . 
 
 game 
 
 151 
 
 German 
 
 ■ 
 herr ,...1M 
 
 Ilftl!*] 
 kale 
 lottu. ■ 
 
 ■' and cucumber '"I 
 
 U: IHP 
 
 " atui tomato Ml 
 
 lima ' . II 
 
 lobster.. 
 macedoli t 
 okra 
 
 onion — 
 oyster.... 
 oyster plant .. 
 partridge.. , 
 
 1 to 
 
 red cabbHv'.- . 27 
 
 radish 
 
 : I c . .'63 
 
 UusBlan 
 
 salsify 
 
 salin 1 
 
 sardine . , 
 
 - 
 
 shrimp 
 
 - them 
 
 nlsh 
 
 ■ 
 
 sweetbread 
 
 tartare 
 
 tonioto .... 
 
 turkey 
 
 Teal 
 
 watercress 
 
 Salamander 1 
 
 ■ 
 
 do \ 
 Salisbury steak with grilled potatoes 1* 
 
 with mushr.. - 
 Sally I.u: 1 
 Salmi — m 
 - 
 
 br.il . ,! 
 
 blsqii. 17 
 
 (cold, boiled).. 
 
 croquellos 
 
 s 
 
 Page 
 
 mayonnaise of 1£6 
 
 salad 153 
 
 smoked 
 
 Buapt sol 
 
 steaks or cutlets 1 
 
 Salmon trout, baked .ISA 
 
 with tomatots . 108 
 
 broiled 
 
 " saute 
 
 .. boucbee with 
 
 Salsify Ma 
 
 salad 
 
 Salted almonds 1 
 
 Sandwich, anchovy 2 
 
 cheese * 1 
 
 lobster 
 
 oyster 
 
 potted beef for 15 
 
 Saratoga chips 
 
 Bardlnea, bom 1 . 1 . . . 21 
 
 Sardine canapes 
 
 liver sausage 1 a HO 
 
 salad 
 
 nlla, extract of 81 
 
 Sastor sausage 142 
 
 Sauce, admiral 156 
 
 Albert... 155 
 
 allemande 165 
 
 almond. . . 
 
 anchovy 
 
 andalualan 
 
 aprlci t < 
 
 aurora l.'>5 
 
 156 
 
 irlan 166 
 
 Bearnalse 1P6 
 
 bechamel 
 
 Hey rout 156 
 
 blgarade 168 
 
 ■ -nilan 156 
 
 lelalse, brown and white 
 
 bonigaolwi 
 
 bouri . 
 
 brand] 
 
 ■■■ 
 Bretoune. In.t and OOld ■ • 
 
 caper 
 
 " for n»h ... 
 cardinal 
 
 corri.t 
 
 can 
 
 n y. white and oron d 
 
 chadeau 
 
 chami rd 
 
 chauipngriu 
 
 chaatausen . 
 
 chasseur 
 
 Chateaubriand 
 chaudfro: I 
 
 rr 
 
 cbevreull 
 chill . 
 Claramooi 
 
 claret 
 
 eolbert .... 
 
 court bouillon 
 
 crab Ol) 
 
 cranberry 168 
 
 ; audlne 
 
 cream 
 Creole . . . . . 
 crev.tr,- 
 cucuti I . r 
 
 curry 
 ..-.1 
 . .1 
 •liable ... 
 diplomat* 
 
 dBOBMM • ..158 
 
 l)ut, I 
 d'uzelles 
 
 t 
 
 (Inanclere ,....., .<58 
 
 ■..:■• 
 Hen. I s h ... 
 
 I.U 
 • voise 
 
 •e 
 
 1. an 
 glblc: I 
 
 trd 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 . ben 1 
 
 ham ..169 
 
 Hanover ...159 
 
 bard . lfiTi 
 
s 
 
 s 
 
 s 
 
 x8 5 
 
 Page 
 
 Sauce. Harrogate 159 
 
 Havralse 159 
 
 Hollandaise. 159 
 
 horseradish 159 
 
 Indienne 159 
 
 lia\ian, white and brown 160 
 
 jard,tniere 160 
 
 jollefllle 160 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 Hvernalse 160 
 
 livournalse 160 
 
 lobster 160 
 
 Dyonnaise 160 
 
 Madeira 160 
 
 maintenon 160 
 
 maitre d'hotel 160 
 
 matelote 160 
 
 mayonnaise 161 
 
 Milanaise 161 
 
 mint! 161 
 
 mushroom 108 
 
 '• white and brown 161 
 
 mussel 10y 
 
 Nantalse 161 
 
 Napolitalne 161 
 
 Neapolitan 161 
 
 Nieeolse 161 
 
 nonpareil 16] 
 
 Normande 161 
 
 onion 118 
 
 " white and brown 16] 
 
 orange 1 19 & 161 
 
 oyster ... .128 4 161 
 
 paplllotte 162 
 
 parsley IS] 
 
 pascaline 161 
 
 perlgueux 161 
 
 plquante 162 
 
 polvrade 162 
 
 polonaise 1 62 
 
 Portuguese 169 
 
 poulette. 144 & 162 
 
 provencale 162 
 
 Ralfort 168 
 
 ravlgote US A 162 
 
 ref orme 1 63 
 
 regency 168 
 
 remoulade 163 
 
 Richelieu 16S 
 
 Robert 168 
 
 roe 163 
 
 royal 168 
 
 Russian Ill 
 
 sage 168 
 
 scallop 161 
 
 shrimp 1 * ; : i 
 
 shallot 16,s 
 
 Sicilian 168 
 
 Eorrel 168 
 
 soubise 168 
 
 Ste. Menehould 168 
 
 Sultana 163 
 
 supreme 168 
 
 tartare 164 
 
 tomato 164 
 
 tortu 164 
 
 Touloute H4 
 
 trlanon 161 
 
 turtle 1641 
 
 Venltienne liV4 
 
 Verjuice ltii 
 
 verte-pre ) 64 
 
 vinaigrette 164 
 
 Yorkshire It 4 
 
 Sauce coated oysters, fried 122 
 
 Sauerkraut 27 
 
 Sausage Bavarian 137 
 
 beef 1 
 
 blood :38 
 
 " French 138 
 
 " North Germany 138 
 
 Bologna 138 
 
 " Italian 139 
 
 cakes with potatoes 16 
 
 Cambridge 188 
 
 cervelat, Brunswick 139 
 
 cervelatnpolse 137 
 
 chicken, ham and tongue 140 
 
 " sauce Hollaudaise 53 
 
 Coblentz 186 
 
 crab 68 
 
 Danish beef and pork 137 
 
 liver 138 
 
 '• smoked 137 
 
 Epping 139 
 
 Frankfort 140 
 
 goose liver, truffled 140 
 
 hard smoked Danish 137 
 
 knackwurst 14! 
 
 knockpolse 137 
 
 Page 
 
 Sausage, leverpolse 137 
 
 leverpostej 138 
 
 leverwum 138 
 
 liver 137 
 
 Lyons (German recipe) .140 
 
 mosaic 139 
 
 oberland liver 141 
 
 Polish 141 
 
 pork 136&141 
 
 sardine and liver 139 & 140 
 
 saster 142 
 
 seasoning, pork .141 
 
 smoked 141 
 
 tenderloin 141 
 
 Thurlnglan red 141 
 
 tomato 142 
 
 truffled liver 14C 
 
 veal 142 
 
 Weinerpolse 137 
 
 Weinerwurst 140 
 
 Westphallan 142 
 
 Savory canapes 35 
 
 Scallops 164 
 
 brochette of 23 
 
 cheese 43 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Scotch beef soup 13 
 
 canapes 3d 
 
 salad 153 
 
 Scrapple 164 
 
 Seaka le 164 
 
 puree of 146 
 
 Seasoning, porksaueage 141 
 
 Semolina 164 
 
 Shad 164 
 
 baked 164 
 
 " stuffed 165 
 
 bolU d 165 
 
 fried 166 
 
 planked 164 
 
 roe 165 
 
 8liaddock 91 & 165 
 
 Shallot 165 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Sbeepshead 165 
 
 Sherbet, apricot 4 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 Shortbread 165 
 
 Shortcake apple 3 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 peach 128 
 
 Shortrlbs. beef 10 
 
 bhou dtrs (pigs) 181 
 
 Shrimp 165 
 
 bit que of 17 
 
 butter 26 
 
 canapes of 35 
 
 omelet 117 
 
 salad 58 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Shrub 66 
 
 Sicilian sauce 163 
 
 Skin (pigs) 131 
 
 Smelts 165 
 
 brochette of 22 
 
 Smoked sausage or knackwurst 141 
 
 Snipe 165 
 
 boucheeof 21 
 
 Snout, pigs 131 
 
 Snowballs, Iced 86 
 
 Soft shell crabs, boiled ... 69 
 
 broiled 69 
 
 " " curried 69 
 
 " " fried 69 
 
 " steamed 69 
 
 Soles 165 
 
 Sole, bouchee of 21 
 
 Sorrel 168 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Soublse (garnish) 88 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Souffle 165 
 
 cheese 44 
 
 Sour pot roast 10 
 
 Soused herrings 95 
 
 Southern lalad 153 
 
 Soups 165 
 
 apple 8 
 
 artichoke 5 
 
 asparagus 6 
 
 beef kidney 16 
 
 button onion, with peas 119 
 
 calf's head, Portuguese style. .. 29 
 " ' with quenelles. ... 29 
 
 carrot 39 
 
 chantilly 42 
 
 chestnut <C 
 
 Soup, chicken, English styie 55 
 
 giblet 54 
 
 '' with noodles 56 
 
 Page 
 
 Soup, chicken, with peas puree 56 
 
 Portuguese style 55 
 
 " with rice and leeks — 65 
 
 " Southern style 55 
 
 " Turkish style 55 
 
 " with vegetables 55 
 
 Soup, clear mock turtle 29 
 
 " oxtail 120 
 
 clam 69 
 
 cock-a leekle 65 
 
 cokle-leekle 59 
 
 colbert 12 
 
 corn 67 
 
 '• and tomato 67 
 
 crab gumbo 69 
 
 duck's giblet 76 
 
 English beef 13 
 
 Soup, giblet 89 
 
 " clear 89 
 
 " with rice 89 
 
 Soup, green pea 129 
 
 " turtle 171 
 
 haricot bean, family style 11 
 
 leek, Scotch style 99 
 
 lemon. loo 
 
 lentil 100 
 
 lobster 103 
 
 " Creole style 103 
 
 " mariner's style 1(3 
 
 macaroni 104 
 
 mock turtle, thick 29 
 
 onion, with cheese canapes 118 
 
 " with crusts 118 
 
 ox tail 120 
 
 " oleai - and thick 13 
 
 oyster, 124 
 
 potato 144 
 
 Scotch beef 13 
 
 split pea 129 
 
 sweetbread 35 & 167 
 
 turkey 171 
 
 turtle, clear 171 
 
 Spaghetti 165 
 
 Spanish fries 59 
 
 omelet 80 & 116 
 
 puffs 57 
 
 puff fritters 83 
 
 salad 163 
 
 Spiced peaches 127 
 
 Spinach 166 
 
 puree of .145 
 
 8pleen, pigs 131 
 
 Split pea soup 129 
 
 Spring chicken in batter, fried onions 52 
 " devilled, green peas.. !2 
 " fried, artlch'k bot'ns 52 
 " fried, hominy fritters 52 
 
 Spring duck, roast, applesauce 76 
 
 Spring lamb, brochette of 22 
 
 Spring turkey, various ways 169 
 
 quabs 165 
 
 sauce crapaudine 134 
 
 Squash 166 
 
 Squirrel 165 
 
 Stanley (garnish) . . 89 
 
 Steak and oyster pie 123 
 
 Ste Menehould sauce 163 
 
 Sterlet 1C6 
 
 Stilton (cheese) 165 
 
 Stomach (piss) 131 
 
 Strawberries 166 
 
 Strawberry jelly 97 
 
 Stuffing, anchovy 2 
 
 Sturgeon 166 
 
 Succotash 166 
 
 Sultana sauce 163 
 
 Supreme of chlckc n 47 
 
 (garnish) 89 
 
 of oysters 123 
 
 sauce 163 
 
 Swedish salad 1(3 
 
 Swiss canapes 35 
 
 Sweetbreads 166 
 
 blanquette of 166 
 
 boucheeof 20 
 
 braised a la Montglas 33 
 
 " sauce Bearnaise 34 
 
 " with vegetables 166 
 
 breaded, sauce tartare 34 
 
 brochette of 22 & 167 
 
 broiled 167 
 
 with brown butter 167 
 
 calf's, different styles 32 
 
 casserole of 166 
 
 en coqullle 33 
 
 " " au gratin 33 
 
 cromesqules of 167 
 
 croquettes of 166 
 
 croustades of 168 
 
i86 
 
 S-T 
 
 Page 
 
 Sweetbreads, curry of 168 
 
 outlets alaNlvernaise 33 
 
 eplgramme of 1 titi 
 
 " "sauce bechamel. 34 
 
 fricandeau of, with chicory 33 
 
 fricassee of IB' 
 
 " " and mushrooms 34 
 
 fried , 1B7 
 
 " colbert sauce 166 
 
 " stuffed 160 
 
 with kidneys 166 
 
 lamb, in cases 99 
 
 larded, Toulouse garnish 166 
 
 " Toulouse ragout 34 
 
 medallions of. 166 
 
 patties of 167 
 
 roast 167 
 
 salad 35 & 153 
 
 salplcon of 167 
 
 saute a la flnanclere 33 
 
 scalloped 166 
 
 scallops of with potato croquets 34 
 " " wlthToulouseragout 34 
 
 scrambled, with eggs 16? 
 
 soup 35 & 167 
 
 wlthtplnach 166 
 
 and truffles in shell 34 
 
 vol-au-vent of, and mushrooms 33 
 
 Tail, i igs 131 
 
 Tapioca 167 
 
 Tarragon 167 
 
 Tartars salad ....... !l53 
 
 sauce 164 
 
 Tartaric acid 167 
 
 Tartlnes, anchovy 1 
 
 caviar 40 
 
 Tartlettes, apricot 4 
 
 blackberry 18 
 
 cranberry 70 
 
 peach 123 
 
 Tart, apple 3 
 
 Tarts, cherry 45 
 
 Teal 167 
 
 Tenderloin sausage 141 
 
 Terrapin 167 
 
 baked . 167 
 
 bisqueof 17 
 
 Maryland style 167 
 
 Timbales cabbage 27 
 
 Thon Marine 169 
 
 Thuringlan red sausage 141 
 
 Tomatoes 168 
 
 puree of 145 
 
 salad 163 
 
 sauce 164 
 
 sausages 142 
 
 stuffed with crab.. 68 
 
 Tomatoed Hamburger 94 
 
 Tongue, braised fresh, sauce Italian. 121 
 boiled smoked, sauce piquante.121 
 Pigs 131 
 
 T-V 
 
 Page 
 Tongue, smoked, -with sauerkraut... 15 
 
 Tortillas 6ri 
 
 Tortu (garnish) 89 
 
 Turtue or turtle sauce 164 
 
 Toulouse (garnish) 89 
 
 sauce lt>4 
 
 Trianon sauce 164 
 
 Trifle 168 
 
 lemon 100 
 
 cherry 45 
 
 orange 119 
 
 peach 128 
 
 Tripe, Creole style 1P8 
 
 various ways 16 
 
 Trout ,.. ..168 
 
 baked stuffed 168 
 
 boiled, shrimp sauce .. 16; 
 
 braised, matelote 169 
 
 filleted, fried, with bacon 168 
 
 Trout steaks, baked 169 
 
 " sauce trianon 168 
 
 Tru ffl ps 169 
 
 Truttied liver sausage 140 
 
 Tunny, "Thon Marine" 169 
 
 Turnips 171 
 
 Turtle 171 
 
 soup, clear 171 
 
 Turkey 169 
 
 blanquette of 170 
 
 boiled, oyster sauce It9 
 
 stuffed 170 
 
 boned 170 
 
 braised 170 
 
 brochette of 23 
 
 broiled spring 169 
 
 creamed collops of 170 
 
 croquettes 170 
 
 croustades of 171 
 
 galantine of 84 & 176 
 
 hashed, with egg 170 
 
 legs, stuffed young 170 
 
 livers, brochette of 22 
 
 patties and vol-au vents 171 
 
 roast spring, oyster sauce If 9 
 
 •' stuffed 169 
 
 salads and soups 171 
 
 salplcon of 171 
 
 stewed spring, Southern style. . 169 
 
 wings, fricassee of 171 
 
 Vanilla 171 
 
 extract of 81 
 
 Veal, blanquette of 172 
 
 boudin of 21 & 172 
 
 brochette of 22 
 
 chops, broiled 173 
 
 croquettes of 172 
 
 croustade of 172 
 
 curry of 173 
 
 cutlets, garnished 171 
 
 " .sau teed 172 
 
 emince of 172 
 
 V-W-Y 
 
 Page 
 
 Veal, forcemeat orgodlveau . 82 
 
 frlcandeau of, with vegetables. 172 
 
 galantine of 173 
 
 grenadins of, with spinach 172 
 
 and oyster pie 172 
 
 roast loin or neck of 172 
 
 roll with tongue 171 
 
 salad 154 
 
 salpicon of 172 
 
 sausages 142 
 
 6callops of, Italian sauce 172 
 
 stewed breast of 173 
 
 timbales of 172 
 
 Vegetables, fry in batter 8 
 
 Veloute sauce 164 
 
 Venison 173 
 
 civet of 173 
 
 Pic 173 
 
 Venitlenne sauce 164 
 
 Verjuice sauce 164 
 
 Vermicelli 173 
 
 Vermouth (5& 173 
 
 Verona salami 141 
 
 Verte pre sauce 164 
 
 Vinaigrette sauce 164 
 
 Vinegar 173 
 
 onion 118 
 
 raspberry 148 
 
 Vol-au-veut 167 & 173 
 
 apricot 4 
 
 brain 2 > 
 
 of chicken wi'h quenelles 51 
 
 of sweetbread i and mushrooms 33 
 
 turkey 171 
 
 Waffles 173 
 
 corn (6 
 
 Walnut... 173 
 
 Water cress canapes 71 
 
 salad 154 
 
 Water ices, fancy (several kinds) 96 
 
 " cherry 45 
 
 aerated 1 
 
 Wax beans 9 
 
 Wienerpolse or Bavarian sausage... 137 
 
 Welnerwurst sausage 140 
 
 Welsh rarebit 43 
 
 West Indian jelly 97 
 
 Westphalian sausage 142 
 
 Wheat griddle cakes 8 
 
 Whipped cream 70 
 
 Whitefish 173 
 
 Wintergreen, extract of 81 
 
 Woodcock 173 
 
 bouchee of 21 
 
 Yarmouth bloaters, baked, in sauce.. 19 
 
 " sautes 19 
 
 Yorkshire buck, old fashioned 43 
 
 pudding 8 
 
 rarebit 43 
 
 sauce 164 
 
 me 
 
 I_mS2 
 
 HOTEL MONTHLY 
 
 The Hotel Monthly 
 
 A Magazine of Technical Information Devoted to the Interests of 
 Hotels, Restaurants, Clubs, ana Railroad and Steamship Catering 1 . 
 
 Specialties: The Publication of Plans, Bookkeeping Systems, Hand- 
 book Compilation and a Reflex of Up-to-Date Methods. 
 
 SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1.00 THE YEAR. 
 
 Published by John Willy, 325 Dearborn street, Chicago. 
 
i»7 
 
 s* * 
 
 The Hotel flonthly Handbook series 
 
 AND OTHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS FOR HOTELS, CLUBS & RESTAURANTS 
 
 For Sa!e by The Hotel Monthly, John Willy, Publisher, 325 Dearborn Street, Chicago. 
 
 THE PRACTICAL. HOTEL STEWARD. By John Tellman 
 Forms the most complete exposition of the steward's 
 duties that has appeared in print. Contains articles on the 
 management of help, bill of fare making, banquets, party 
 catering, buying, carving; storeroom and wine room book- 
 keeping (illustrated) kitchen, bakeshop and storeroom 
 equipment (with lists of utensils); organization for small, 
 medium and large hotels; plan of working department, 
 specimen bills of fare, menus, requisition blanks, market 
 lists, etc., etc.; also an exhaustive article on the wines and 
 liqueurs of the world. Pi ice, cloth binding $1 ; In leather $2. 
 
 POCKET PRICES REFERENCE BOOK. By John Tellman. 
 For use of proprietors, managers and stewards. Soventy 
 pages of the book are devoted to a classified arrangement 
 of about fifteen hundred different articles of a caterer's 
 market list, and include not alone provisions, wines and 
 cigars, but also articles of china, glass and silverware, bar, 
 billiards, painters', laundry, engineers' and miscellaneous 
 supplies, kitchen utensils, linens, carpets, stationery, drugs 
 and general expense. Opposite the name of each article is 
 a ruling for the entry of brand, minimum, and maximum 
 price, size of package and tha quantity purchased. A dozen 
 pages are devoted to wax engraved rulings for table com- 
 pilation of quantity, price, averages, etc.. for the last year 
 and comparisons with the year preceding. These tables 
 are ready reference for quantity and cost of coal, charcoal, 
 sawdust, milk, cream, salt and ice by the month and year; 
 stock used by bar; amount of commissary purchased and 
 transportation charges paid on same; daily house count and 
 average cost per capita by the day, month and year; total 
 cost of all supplies and service each month; total issues of 
 commissary each montn to me various departments; 
 amount of expense issued each month to the several 
 departments; cafe operating and cafe receipts; amount 
 paid for transportation; table of freight rates, etc. There 
 Is a condensed index in front of the book headed "Where 
 to Find If; and an exhaustive index in the back of the 
 book listing a thousand different articles, and, in itself, a 
 very valuable compilation for "reminder" purposes. The 
 book measures 3%x7 inches, weighs three ounces, is printed 
 on bond paper and bound in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 
 
 VE3T POCKET VEGETABLE BOOK. By Chas. G. Moore. 
 Is the first and only book of the kind championing a 
 reformation in vegetable cookery as necessary to the great 
 improvement of the average hotel and restaurant cuisine 
 Is In many respects the most important culinary book for 
 hotel requirements ever written. One hundred and twenty- 
 six pages; an index of over a thousand references; gives 
 the history and the English, French and German names of 
 the different vegetables ; receipts for the vegetable salads, 
 sauces and garnishes. The book is not, as its title might 
 infer, an advocate of the vegetarian theory, but, rather, i s 
 an earnest plea for a more general recognition of the vege- 
 table kingdom, in combination with the animal kingdom 
 as a prolific source of supply of appetizing, wholesome and 
 nutritious foods for mankind. The book is printed on bond 
 paper, bound in leather and embellished with specially de- 
 signed frontispiece. Price, postpaid, $1. 
 
 VEST POCKET PASTRY BOOK. By John E. Meister. The 
 most useful book for pastry cooks and bread bakers ever 
 published. The author is a practical pastry cook and baker, 
 with established reputation for the general excellence of 
 his work in both Europe and America. It has been his aim 
 to present a series of receipts for breads, cakes, pies, pud- 
 dings, creams, Ices, jellies, etc., especially adapted to the 
 requirements of the average American hotel, restaurant, 
 bakery, club and Institution. The book contains five hund 
 red receipts, including hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc 
 [57 receipts]; cold puddings, side dishes, jellies, etc. [77 re- 
 ceipts]; ice creams, water ices, punches, etc. [90 receipts]; 
 pasties, patties, pies, tarts, etc [68 receipts]; cakes [77 re- 
 ceipts]; icings, colorings, sugars, etc. [17 receipts]; bread 
 rolls, yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc [60 receipts] 
 miscellaneous receipts [55 receipts]. This book is printed 
 on linen paper and bound in leather. Price, postpaid, II. 
 
 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. By Charles Fellows The 
 most complete reference book for all things culinary that 
 has ever been produced In single volume of 200 pages. Rec- 
 ipes and explanatious for upwards of 4000 different articles 
 and dishes. The book is of especial value because entirely 
 in English, and the contents are so grouped as to be easily 
 found; also there is to the book a carefully compiled index 
 so that reference to any particular item can be had on the 
 Instant. This index also is of particular value as a reminder. 
 The Culinary Handbook consists of the articles under 
 this head that have oppoared In the Hotel Monthly dur- 
 ing the last four years. The book is handsomely bound In 
 leather and printed on bond paper. Price, postpaid $2. 
 
 A SELECTION OF DISHES AND THE CHEF'S REMINDER. 
 By Chas. Fellows. Fifth edition. Is the most popular of 
 the Hotel Monthly culinary handbook series. The contents 
 include: 450 entrees of meats, fowl and game. 200 entrees 
 most suitable for Fridays and vegetarians. 89 sweet entrees. 
 "Shorsd'oeuvres— hot and cold. 85 salads. 131 soups, broths 
 and bouillons. 67 consommes. 40 kinds of fish and 400 ways 
 of cooking them. 182 sauces, showing their Ingredients. 125 
 garnishes, showing their composition. 7 fancy butters. 10 
 flavoring vinegars. 8 fritter batters. 50 fancy potato dishes 
 for garnishing. 24 miscellaneous recipes. 46 valuable hints 
 to cooks and stewards. BREAKFAST, including fruits in 
 season, cereals, fish, (37); fried meats (15); entrees and 
 miscellaneous (59); omelets (23); eggs (85); oold meats; 
 potatoes (19); hot breads and cakes; drinks; specimen 
 breakfast menus. LUNCHEONS, including soups (37) ; rel ■ 
 ithes;flsh; luncheon entrees (157); luncheon menus. SUP- 
 PER, including vegetable salads and their dressings (47); 
 chafing dish service and cookery (36); wine service. A pro- 
 nouncing glossary of culinary terms giving 734 translations. 
 The book Is vest pocket size, printed on linen paper, bound 
 In leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 
 
 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL HOUSEKEEPER. By Miss 
 Bresnan. Treats of the duties of the hotel house keeper 
 and the management of the laundry. Iillustrates systems 
 of keeping track of the linen. Price, postpaid $1. 
 
 VACHON'S ECONOMICAL SOUPS AND ENTREES. Cob 
 tains receipts for one hundred soups, and two hundred en- 
 trees. Is a serviceable book for those catering for hearty eat- 
 ers, where cost of meal is first consideration from the 
 caterer's standpoint, All the receipts are for wholesome 
 palatable dishes, and many of them for dishes that can be 
 served to advantage in high class catering establishments. 
 Book is vest pocket size, printed on bond paper and bound 
 in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 
 
 APPLEGREEN'3 BAR GUIDE. OR HOW TO MIX DRINKS 
 By John Applegreen formerly of Kinsley's, Chicago and 
 Holland House, New York. In his preface the author says: 
 ,'This little book is intended to serve a useful purpose as a 
 •vest pocket' ready reference where high class bar or ca- 
 tering service is demanded. By a careful compounding of 
 the different receipts as directed, and the use of only first- 
 class ingredients, success is assured." The departments in- 
 clude: Cocktails, Collins, Coolers, Daisies, Fizies, Frappes, 
 High Balls, Hot Drinks, Mint Juleps, Miscellaneous Drinks, 
 Party Drinks, Punches, Rickeys, Smashes, Sours, Temper- 
 ance Drinks and Toddies. The book is printed on linen 
 paper, bound In leather. Price, postpaid, 81. 
 
 TEE AMERICAN COLORED WAITER. By John B. Goins. 
 The author, an experienced headwaiter, had conducted 
 a class for instructing waiters in their duties with consid- 
 erable success. The lessons ho prepared for this purpose 
 he has carefully edited, and, with the addition of many dia- 
 grams illustrating the different branches of a waiter's 
 work, particularly the table setting and systematic mothod 
 of service, has produced the most useful handbook for 
 waiters ever published. While written primarily for the 
 colored waiter, It contains many points that can be studied 
 with profit by the white waiters and waitresses. The book 
 has an exhaustive index, is printed on linen paper and 
 bound in leather. Price, postpaid, $1. 
 
THE RANKIN CALCULATING TABLES. Price 10 cents. 
 
 THE FRANK E. MILLER POCKET WAGES BOOK for 
 28, 30 and 31 day months, price 50 cents. 
 
 THE EPICUREAN. By Charles Ranhofer. A Franoo- 
 Amemcan culinary encyclopedia containing a complete 
 treatise of analytical and practical studies on the culinary 
 art. Illustrated with over 800 engravings made especially 
 for the work. * * * This extensive work (nearly 1,200 pages) 
 Is the result of a lifetime's experience. The author, for 
 thirty years the Chef of Delmonico's, has Included in this 
 massive volume the recipes for the dishes, etc , which have 
 made that house famous, many of which are of his own in- 
 troduction. * * * The best and most effectual manner of pro- 
 viding healthy, enjoyable, and nutritious food, economic- 
 ally, without waste, is a leading feature of the volume. * * * 
 Every purchaser will doubtless find permanent advantage 
 and satisfaction in possession of the volume many a recipe 
 or entire menus may prove of more value to the user than 
 many times the price of the work. * * * It is so written and 
 arranged as to be clearly and fully appreciated, even by 
 the simplest reader of the English language. * * * The work 
 is, In all detail, up-to-date; all recipes have been fully and 
 satisfactorily tested, and are in daily use at Delmonico's. 
 * * * No other work of the kind in existence is nearly as 
 thorough and extensive as is this one, which may be con- 
 sidered to have practically exhausted the subject. ** * 
 There are over 3,700 recipes, in all, in the book. * * * By 
 means of reference numbers, also its exhaustive index oc- 
 cupying 44 pages, ready access is had, without a moment's 
 delay, to any item of informarion sought in its pages. * * * 
 It has an index for marketing everything in season. ** * 
 The chapter on Ice creams contains the most complete and 
 exhaustive treatise ever written on that subject. * * * The 
 titles of dishes, etc., are given both in French and English. 
 Price, cloth binding $8: in half morocco $10; full morocco$12 
 
 THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK AND GUIDE TO PARTY 
 CATERING. By Jessup Whitehead. Contains a large 
 amount of practical and reliable Information, and has ben- 
 efitted thousands of stewards in the last twenty years. The 
 contents include: part 1— Hotel stewardlng and composi- 
 tion of bills of fare. PART 2— Restaurant stewarding and 
 public party catering, part 3— Catering for private parties, 
 and headwaiters and their troops, part 4— A Dictionary 
 of Dishes and culinary terms and specialties, part 5— How 
 to fold napkins. Price, postpaid. $3. 
 
 HOTEL MEAT COOKING. By Jessup Whitehead. A book 
 in which the instructions for cooking and garnishing are 
 so fully and clearly given that a novice can work from them 
 successfully. It is considered the best book for the average 
 country hotel. The contents include: part 1— The hotel 
 Fish and Oyster Book; showing all the best methods of 
 cooking oysters and flsh, fcr restaurant and hotel service 
 together with the appropriate sauces and vegetables, part 
 2— How to Cut Meats and Roast, Boll and Broil. The entire 
 trade of the hotel meat cutter, roaster and broiler, includ- 
 ing "short orders", omelets, etc. part 3— The Hote Book 
 of Soups and Entrees, comprising specimens of French, 
 English and American menus, with translations and com- 
 ments. Showing how to make up hotel bills of fare, with 
 all the different varities of soups and consommes in proper 
 rotation, and a new set of entrees or "made dishes" for 
 every day. part 4— Creole Cookery and Winter Resort 
 Specialties, part 5— Cook's Scrap Book— A collection of 
 stray receipts, etc., etc Index and translation of all the 
 French terms used in the book. Price, postpaid, $2. 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. By Jessup Whitehead. 
 The most complete work on breads, pastries, ices , etc. ever 
 published. The receipts have been tested for the last twenty 
 years by leading pastry cooks of America and other coun- 
 tries and found to be true and thoroughly reliable. The 
 contents include: part 1— The Hotel Book of Fine Pas- 
 tries, Pies, Patties, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Charlottes, 
 Jellies and Sweet Entrements In variety. PART 2 — The 
 Hotel Book of Puddings, Souffles and Meringues. A 
 handy collection of valuable receipts, original, selected 
 and perfected for use in hotels and eating houses of 
 every grade, part 3— The Hotel Book of Breads and 
 Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House and other rolls, 
 muffins, waffles, tea cakes; stock yeast and ferment; Yeast 
 raised cakes, etc., as made lu the best hotels, part 4— The 
 Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes. Salad dressing, with 
 and without oil. Salads of all kinds, how to make and how 
 to serve them; Boned fowls, galantines, aspics, etc. Price, 12. 
 
 COOKING FOR PROFIT AND EIGHT WEEKS AT A SUM- 
 MER RESORT. By Jessup Whitehead. This book is 
 considered by many stewards and chefs to be the most 
 useful culinary work ever published, particularly as an all 
 around book for country hotels, restaurants, lunchrooms 
 and the like, where It s essential to consider the cost, make 
 the best of everything, and adapt one's self to circumstances. 
 It is a remarkable volume which shows how money Is made 
 by boarding people and what it costs to live well. The con- 
 tents include: part 1— Some articles for the show case. 
 The lunch counter. Restaurant breakfasts, lunches and 
 dinners. Hotel breakfasts, dinners and suppers. Oyster 
 and flsh house dishes. The ice cream saloon. Fine bakery 
 lunch. Quaker dairy lunch. Confectionery goods. Home- 
 made beers, etc. part 2— Eight Weeks at a Summer Re- 
 sort. Presents a vast fund of Information regarding the 
 preparing of breakfasts, dinners and suppers, ordinary and 
 extraordinary, stating quantities and estimated cost of pro- 
 visions required. Kitchen equipment. Cold storage. One 
 hundred different bills of fare. Eleven hundred recipes. A 
 dictionary of cookery. Artistic coi> Very illustrated. Price S3 
 
 THE FAMILY COOK BOOK. (Whiteheads) Price, $1.50. 
 
 HOW TO FOLD NAPKINS. (Whiteheads) Price, 60 cents 
 
 THE FRANCO AMERICAN COOKERY BOOK. By Felix 
 Deliee. This is one of the best, most complete and most 
 satisfactory cook books ever published. In compiling this 
 book, the author, a chef of international reputation, divid- 
 ed it into 365 parts, each part containing a bill of fare com- 
 plete, with receipt for every dish named therein. These 
 are designed to afford a separate menu for every day in the 
 year, and with due regard for the season and the supplies 
 afforded by the American markets. Each receipt is calcu- 
 lated for eight persons, but can be varied by simply increas- 
 ing or decreasing the quantities given. Price, postpaid, $360. 
 
 THE AMERICAN SALAD BOOK. By Max De Loup. Has 
 found its way into thousands of homes, hotels, restau 
 rants and clubs. It is the most complete work of its kind. 
 Every page reflects the genius of a master-hand in the 
 delicate art of salad making. The contents include i Amer- 
 ica the land of salads ; the mixing of salads; decorating and 
 garnishing salads; sslad accompaniments; condiments ; 
 serving salads; salad dressings and sauces ; flsh salads ; shell 
 flsh salads; tame and wild fowl salads; various egg salads; 
 meat salads; vegetable salads; fruit salads; fancy salads; 
 miscellaneous salads. Over 200 receipts. Price, postpaid, $1- 
 
 SALADS, 8ANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES. 
 By Janet McKenzie Hill. A valuable feature of this 
 book is the illustrations, of which there are thirty-two, all 
 made from photographs of the original dishes ana showing 
 a tasteful way of serving them. The book is in three parts. 
 Part one tells how to make aromatic vinegars, to keep veg- 
 etables and to prepare garnishes; salad dressings, vegeta- 
 ble salads with French dressings, other vegetable salads, 
 and flsh, various compound, and fruit and nut salads; bow 
 to prepare and use aspic jelly; cheese dishes served with 
 salads. Part two tells of savory sandwiches, sweet sand- 
 wiches, bread and chou paste and beverages. Part three 
 of oyster dishes, lobster and other sea flsh, cheese, confeo- 
 tions, eggs, vegetarian dishes, etc. Price, postpaid, $1 50. 
 
 THE TABLE: HOW TO BUY FOOD, HOW TO COOK IT, 
 
 AND HOW TO SERVE IT. By Filippini. One of the 
 
 most popular culinary books in English language. Price. $2. 60 
 
 THE WALDORF COOK BOOK. By Oscar. Printed in large 
 type, and popular with many cooks. Postpaid, $2.50. 
 
 THE POST GRADUATE COOKERY BOOK. By Adolphe 
 Meyer. A new work appreciated by professional cooks. 
 Gives receipts for hundreds of new and comparatively 
 new dishes, all high class. Price $2. 
 
 CHAFING DISH RECEIPTS. By H. M. Kinsley. Price $1. 
 
 SALADS AND SAUCES. By Thomas J. Murrey. A little 
 handbook of the gourmet's nicest art. Price, postpaid. 50o 
 
 FRAISCATELLIS THE MODERN COOK. Price $2. 
 
 ROTTENHOFER'S COOK BOOK. Printed in the German. 
 Profusely illustrated- Imported. Price, postpaid, $5. 
 
 RECHTSCHREIBUNd der Speisen et Getranke. Price S3. 
 
 MEISTERWERK DER SPEISEN ET GETRANKE,2 vols)»15 
 
THK NEW CENTURY COOK BOOK. By C Herman 8enn, 
 England. Is the most up-to-date of the imported culin- 
 ary books. Contains 2.000 receipts. Goes more into detail of 
 kitchen economics than anj other published work. Is in- 
 valuable as a work for reference for chef and steward 
 
 Price, postpaid, $5. 
 
 SENN'S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA, A dictionary of cul- 
 inary technical terms, the names of most food stuffs, 
 food and cookery auxiliaries, condiments and beverages. 
 Useful for reference. Imported. Price, postpaid. 50 cents. 
 
 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY, FRENCH MENUS AND 
 REGISTER OF DISHES. By C Herman Senn. A re- 
 minder book of especial value to managers, stewards, chefs 
 and all who have to compile menus. Gives the English and 
 French names of foods and made dishes, the pronounciation 
 of the principal words used in French menus, and much 
 other useful information. Price postpaid 12. 
 
 HUEG'S ART OF BAKING, condensed. Price 50 cents. 
 HUEG'S ORNAMENTAL CONFECTIONERY AND ART OF 
 BAKING (English and German). Price *2 50 
 
 ICE CREAM AND CAKES. Price -U.50. 
 
 ICB CREAM AND CAKES. By an American. A standard 
 and very useful work. Price $150. 
 
 GILL'S COMPLETE PRACTICAL CONFECTIONER. $4. 
 GILL'S COMPLETE BREAD & CRACKER BAKER. 13. 
 GILL'S COMPLETE PRACTICAL PASTRY COOK. $3. 
 
 FRYE S PRACTICAL CANDY MAKER. Price 15. 
 
 PRESERVING AND PICKLING (Lemke). Price 75 cents, 
 
 FOOD PRODUCTS OF THE WORLD (Green's). Price 81 50. 
 
 CARVING AND SERVING (by MrB. Lincoln). Price 75 cents 
 
 THE BANQUET BOOK. A new book of quotations and ap 
 propriate toasts for menus. Price 11.75. 
 
 QUOTATIONS FOR OCCASIONS (handy for menus), fl.50 
 
 TEA, ITS HISTORY AND MYSTERY (Walsh). Price 12. 
 COFFEBJ, ITS HISTORY, CLASSIFICATION Price S2. 
 TEA BLENDING AS A FINE ART (Walsh). Price $2. 
 
 MODERN AMERICAN DRINKS. By Geo. J. Kappeler. 
 Contains recipes for the proper mixing of all kinds of 
 drinks such as absinthes, cocktails, cups, crustas, cobblers, 
 coolers, egg-nogs, fixes, fizzes, flips, juleps, lemonades, 
 punches, pousse cafe, frozen beverages etc. Price, $1. 
 
 FANCY DRINKS AND POPULAR BEVERAGES. 50 cents. 
 
 BARTENDERS GUIDE, OR HOW TO MIX DRINKS. By 
 Jerry Thomas. Pa per bound , 60 cents ; cloth, 75 cents. 
 
 DUBELLE'S SODA FOUNTAIN. 490 recipes for summer 
 drinks comprising natural and artificial fruit syrups; 
 fruit essences; concentrated fruit phosphates; malt phos- 
 phates; wine phosphates; soluble flavoring extracts or es- 
 sences; modern punches; milkpunches;fruitpunches; fruit 
 meads; fruit champagnes; fruit juice shakes; eggphosphate 
 shakes; fancy eggphosphates;solublewine nittersextracts; 
 Italian lemonade; Ice cream sodas; non poisonous colors; 
 foam preparations; latest novelties in soda fountain form- 
 ulag; miscellaneous formulas etc. P rice tl. 
 THE WAITERS' MANUAL. By W- F. Cozart. A technical 
 treatise on dining room service. Price, postpaid, tl. 
 
 HOW TO BECOME A WAITER. By D. Roedelsperger of 
 Delmonlco's. A very useful book, printed in B'rench and 
 English. Price 50 cents. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE MONEY IN A COUNTRY HOTEL. Re- 
 plete with ideas of value to the hotelkeeper. Price $ 1 . 75 
 THE FINAN CIAL SIDE OF HO 1ELKEEPING. Price $2. 
 
 THE WINE STEWARD'S MANUAL. Price *1. 
 
 THE HOTEL RED BOOK- Lists 15.000 hotels. Price 13. 
 
 A YEAR'S SUBSCRIPTION FOR HOTEL MONTHLY $1 
 Bound volumes of the Hotel Monthly for 1893, 1894, 1895 
 
 1896, 1897, 1898, 1899, 1900. 1901 and 1902, 1903, the set 811, or 
 
 In single volumes $1 each. 
 
 SENDING MONEY BY MAIL. In remitting for boohs or sub- 
 scription the safest way to send money is by Bank Draft, 
 Post Office or Express Morey Order, or by Registered Letter. 
 Those who take pains to REGISTER letters addressed The Ho- 
 tel Monthly will have the extra cost of registering (eight 
 cents) sent back to them in postage stamps with the receipt 
 for the money. 
 
 HOTEL MONTHLY SPECIALLY RULED 
 
 Hotel Blank Books. 
 
 THE H. M. TRANSIENT LEDGER, adapted for the aver- 
 age commercial hotel of either or both plans Ruled for 
 15 accounts to the page; leaf 10Kxl5!^ inches; stout linen 
 ledger paper. Indexed throughout with letter on every leaf. 
 
 150-page, tight back 82 50 
 
 200-page, spring back, half Russia 4.00 
 
 500-page, " " " " 000 
 
 500-page, patent flat opening " 7-60 
 
 800-page, patent flat opening " 9.50 
 
 THE ECONOMICAL TRANSIENT LEDGER is similar to 
 the "H. M." above, except it has an extra column for 
 
 credits, and the ruling is for 21 accounts to the page. 
 
 200-page, cloth bound 83.00 
 
 300-page, spring back, half Russia 400 
 
 500-page, ' 6.00 
 
 500-page patent flat opening 7-60 
 
 THE FOUR X TRANSIENT LEDGER is adapted for hotels 
 
 of either or both plans, and more especially for houses 
 
 that need considerable space for the entry of extras. Ruled 
 
 10 accounts to page; leaf 14x16 inches; indexed throughout 
 
 300-page, spring back, half Russia »5 00 
 
 500-page, patent flat opening 8.60 
 
 DELINQUENT LEDGER OB FILE BOOK. Leaf 6x9, ruled 
 for 10C0 accounts. Price tl.00 
 
 THE H. M. STOREROOM ISSUE BOOK. A simple, satis- 
 factory ruling that meets the requirements of most 
 hotels and clubs. Leaf 14x16 inches, canvas bound 
 
 200-page $2.00 
 
 400-page, spring back 4.00 
 
 THE H. M. VALUABLE PACKAGE CHECK BOOK. Cou- 
 pon leaves consecutively numbered in triplicate. The 
 best check ever devised for valuables deposited in the office. 
 Book of 100 leaves, 3x6^ Inches $0 60 
 
 EXPRESS PACKAGE RECEIPT BOOK. Size of page 9x11 In. 
 200-pages, half cloth, indexed throughout $1.50 
 
 HOUSE PACKAGE RECEIPT BOOK. Size Of page 9x11 in . 
 150 page, not Indexed $1.00 
 
 THE MULLIGAN MAIL FORWARDER. Sizeof page 9x11 in. 
 200 pages, half cloth, Indexed throughout 8160 
 
 THE H. M. PAY ROLL BOOK, a popular ruling. Size of leaf 
 11x19 Inches, 200 pages; half cloth $1.60 
 
 H. M. BELL BOY BOOK, leaf 4x9, 
 
 200-pages, price 50 cents each $5.00 the dozen. 
 
 HOTEL REGISTERS, ready made only, and without blotter. 
 Small size, 100-page, leaf llj^xl2, 2000 names.... 81 00 
 Large size, 150 page, leaf HKxl7^, 4000 names.. 12.60 
 
 THE BAILEY BOOK for keeping track of the wine room 
 
 receipts, issues, and quantity and value of stock on hand 
 
 at all times. Leaf 11x13^ inches. (Same book used also for 
 
 cigars; and for daily count of linens to and from laundry). 
 
 100 pages, $1.50 200 pages, «3.50 
 
 FULWELL'S DAILY REPORT, sheets per 100 $2.00 
 
 FULWELL'S STOREROOM ISSUE BOOK 2.00 
 
 FULWELL'S STOREROOM STOCK BOOK 4.00 
 
 TELLMAN'S POCKET PRICES REFERENCE $1.00 
 
 VALLETTE'S HELP LEDGER AND TIME BOOK $3 00 
 
 SPECIAL ORDER BOOK, 6J^x9 inches, 1000 coupons 60 
 
 CALL SHEETS, ]4 hour. 7x8 In., pad of 100 25c; doz. $2.60 
 CALL SHEETS, H " l«x8^ in., " " 40c; " 376 
 
 REFERENCE OR DEPARTURE BOOK (used with the H. 
 M. card system of keeping the transient accounts). 
 
 150-page, 10.000 names, indexed throughout $2.00 
 
 300-page, 20,000 names, " " 3.00 
 
 REFERENCE BOOK with dollar and cents column. 
 
 150-page, 8,000 names, Indexed throughout $2.00 
 
 300-page, 16,000 " " " 3.00 
 
 Jawbook, loose leaf, indexed $3.00 
 
 " sheets, per 100 1.00 
 
 INVENTORY BOOKS (a page ruled and printed for record 
 of items in each separate guest room, and other pagea 
 ruled for miscellaneous). Bound up to order; or sold in 
 loose sheets of four pages, each sheet $0.08 
 
 MEALS COUNT-HOUSE VALUE SHEETS, for Amerloan 
 
 plan, ruled for one month; each 5cts;. ..per doz. $0.60 
 
 JOHN WILLY, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago 
 
i go 
 
 HOTEL MONTHLY ROOM RACK-LEDGER SYSTEM 
 
 (PATENTED). 
 
 RACKS, CABINETS, SIGNALS, ETC.— THE USE OF CARDS INSTEAD OF 
 BOOKS FOR KEEP1NQ THE TRANSIENT ACCOUNTS. 
 
 ROOM RACK solidly built of oak, aluminum pockets, room numbers stamped to order on wooder 
 
 strips, price complete per pocket to cents. 
 
 Same, with room numbers stamped on metal strips, per pocket 12 " 
 
 A rack of 50 rooms measures 19^ inches tall by n inches wide, cost $5 with wood strips, $6 metal 
 
 " " 100 " " ig l /2 21 " " " 10 " " ' 12 " 
 
 " " 150 " " 22K 26 " " " 15 " " " 18 
 
 Other sizes in proportion. -In ordering it is advisable to have a few extra pockets, as they can b; 
 used for signal holders or memoranda from the different departments of the hotel. A blank form is 
 furnished for convenience of writing in the room numbers when rack is ordered. 
 CARD CASE for holding the supply of guest cards for the different days of the week, and also irom 
 
 time bill is paid until the paid cards of the day are checked and ready for filing away. Case oi 
 oak (12 inches wide, 16% inches tall, 4)2 inches deep) sixteen pigeon holes, metal labels, and a st| 
 of metal plates suitably inscribed for covers for the different supply cards, price complete. . . .$3.00 
 FILING CABINET, 24 pigeon holes, stoutly built of oak, measures 21 by 21 inches by 10 inche;> 
 
 deep. Holds 24 filing boxes, capacity 24,000 cards, price with filing boxes complete $5.75 
 
 (This cabinet is not necessary for small hotels, when it is just as convenient to file by date as it is tc. 
 
 do so alphabetically or by number). 
 
 GUEST CARDS (put up in riling boxes 1000 to the box) best quality 2-ply white bristol, 1000 70c 
 
 The same, except as to quality, (the cards made of extra quality manilla), per 1000 50c. 
 
 ^^-(Less ten per cent when cards are ordered in h'ts 1 f t v. ■ <nd or more) 
 
 ppSn , , < in l>»- purchased with or without ek printed on. 
 
 DOUBLE-UP CARDS (for use when room is occupied by more than one guest, this card to • 
 
 in front of the guest enrds as index to occupants of room) put up in boxes of 1000. Same qual- 
 ities and prices as the Gnest Cards above. 
 
 ROOM CARDS of linen parchment paper (to stand permanently, one in each pocket, as index to 
 
 size, price, accommodations and furnishmer: • per 100 1 5c . 
 
 EMPLOYES CARDS, similar to the room cat Is, e\< epi they indicate rooms occupied by empl 
 
 or other persons than guests, per 100 15c. 
 
 BOARDERS CARDS, of linen led ger paper, double size, stand folded in rack, per 100 15c 
 
 OUT OF ORDER CARDS, same quality as the best q uality of guest cards, per 100 10c. 
 
 BRASS SIGNALS to facilitate the rooming of guests when the register is busy with new arrivals 
 
 (one of these put '"to the room pocket soon as room i prevents c onfusion) each. . . .5c 
 
 ADVANCE ENGAGEMENT SIGNAL CARDS, of linen ;t paper, triangular shape, (to 
 
 stand in the rack as indicative that such and such rooms are engaged ahead: memoranda of en- 
 gagement written on card, and date of engagement o n the exposed corner), per 100 ioc. 
 
 THREE STYLES OF REFERENCE BOOK TO SELECT FROM 
 ( The 10,000 and 20,000-size styles are the most popular). 
 REFERENCE OR DEPARTURE BOOK (the key to the system) for entering in alphabetical or- 
 der, the names of all guests assigned to rooms, together with room number, file number, time of 
 
 arrival and time of departure. 150-page book, indexed throughout, 10,000 names $2 00 
 
 300-page book indexed throughout, 20,000 names $3 °° 
 
 REFERENCE BOOK with dollar and cents columns. 150 page, 8,000 names, indexed thru'out $2 00 
 
 300-page, 16,000 names, indexed throughout 3 °° 
 
 THE JAWBOOK FOR REFERENCE, (loose leaf system), indexed $3 00 
 
 Reference sheets for use in Jawbook, per too ' °° 
 
 lLS TH'KKTS printed to order in lots of 5000 or more, per 1000 fi.oo 
 
 EXTRA FILING BOXES (needed only where the fi lin g cabinet is not used) each ioc- 
 
 CARD ASSORTI NG RACK (a conve nience for large hotels using the system) each >3 5Q : 
 
 MAIL FORWARDER RACK, used by hotels using the ca rd system for Mail Forwarding, each $1.50 
 
 MAIL FQRW ^ ARDS printed bot h sides on ledger paper, per 1000 60c. 
 
 Cards, Cabinets and other paraphernalia, not essential to 1 to order, are carried in stock 
 
 ready for immediate shipment. Write for Pamphlet illustrating the system. 
 More than 200 hotels are already using this system successfully. 
 
 John Willy, Inventor and Paten tee ,3 25 Dearborn st, Chicago 
 
10 1904