THE PERFECT GARDEN 1 ^ . %^ ' THE PERFECT GARDEN HOW TO KEEP IT BEAUTIFUL AND FRUITFUL WITH PRACTICAL HINTS ON ECONOMICAL MANAGEMENT AND THE CULTURE OF ALL THE PRINCIPAL FLOWERS, FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ILLUSTRATED WITH COLOURED PLATES ENGRAVINGS, AND PLANS BY WALTER P. WRIGHT HORTICULTURAL SUPERINTENDENT UNDER THE KENT COUNTY COUNCIL AUTHOR OF "pictorial PRACTICAL GARDENING" AND EDITOR OF CASSELL'S "DICTIONARY OF PRACTICAL GARDENING" PHILADELPHIA J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY LONDON: GRANT RICHARDS 1908 ^^'> CONTENTS PROLOGUE PAGE Dream Gardens ....... i PART I THE OUTLOOK CHAP. I. The Soul of the Garden . . . . . n II. Design, and the Home-Made Garden . . t8 III. The Cost of Gardening 24 IV. Specialism in Gardening ..... 32 V. How to Learn Gardening 37 VI. The Conquest of the Wild .... 44 PART II THE FLOWER GARDEN I. Colour for all Seasons 69 II. Hardy Herbaceous Plants ..... 93 III. Rockeries . . . . . . . .106 VI CONTENTS CHAP. IV. Rose Beauty .... V, Picture Beds .... VI. The Water Lily Pool VII. Beauty of Climbers and Creepers VIII. Tree and Shrub Beauty . IX. Bulb Beauty .... X. Some Special Flowers and how them ..... XI. Garden Auxiliaries . XII. Garden Enemies .... to Use PART III GLASS HOUSES I. Plant Houses II. Fruit Houses PART IV THE FRUIT GARDEN I. Why we should Grow Fruit II. A Complete Fruit Garden III. When and how to Make the Fruit Garden IV. What Varieties of Fruit to Choose V. Pruning Fruit Trees CONTENTS vil PART V THE VEGETABLE GARDEN CHAP. PAGE I. Why we should Grow Vegetables . . -3^9 II. A Complete Kitchen Garden .... 325 III. How TO Grow the Principal Vegetables . 340 INDEX 365 PLANS -369 !i 1 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR A Grass Walk Between Borders of Poppies, Delphiniums, Madonna Lilies, and other Old-Fashioned Flowers .... Frontispiece From a water-colour drawmg by Lilian Stannard Flower Borders and Rose Arch in a New Garden Facing p. 44 From a ivater-colour drawing by E. P. Rowe Colour Groups under an Old Wall . , „ 64 ^ From a water-colour drawing by E. P. Rowe Colour Grouping with Michaelmas Daisies, Hollyhocks, Sunflowers, Torch Lilies, Japanese Anemones, etc ,, 88 From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard A Charming Rock Garden . . . . „ 106 From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard A Rose Garden „ wd ^ From a water-colour drawing by Lilian Stannard \ ILLUSTRATIONS IN BLACK AND WHITE A Group of Flower Beds on the Outskirts OF A Lawn, with Trees in the Back- ground An Example of the Formal Garden, High- clere Castle, Newbury, the Seat of the Earl of Carnarvon . Delphinium Beauty of Langport, White A Clump of Double White Pyrethrum . Delphinium True Blue .... A Good Clump of the Charming White Pink Mrs. Sinkins ..... LiLiuM Giganteum Eremurus Himalaicus .... Yucca Gloriosa (Adam's Needle) Cerastium Biebersteini : a Silvery-leaved, Free-flowering Plant for the Rockery Saxifraga Wallacei, a Popular Rockery Plant Crimson Rambler Rose Growing over an Old Tree ........ Rose Fj^licite Perp^tue on a House Wall . A Clump of the Pretty Annual Viscaria OCULATA Rhododendrons Something like a Rhododendron Facing p. 40 84 86^ 102 104 112 114 124 130 • 136 158 160 ILLUSTRATIONS White Indian Azaleas .... Magnolia Conspicua as a Pot Plant A SPLENDID Clump of Spir^a Aruncus . A Clump of the Meadow Saffron, Colchicum Autumnale, in a Border . A Good Dark Form of Lilium Auratum A Border of Silver-variegated Zonal Ger aniums, with Pentstemons behind . A Clump of Madonna Lilies (Lilium Can didum) ....... Double Coloured Primroses . The Beautiful White Lilium Speciosum Kraetzeri ...... XI Facing p. 162 164 166 184 192 212 212 240 PLANS Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About Four Acres) 370 Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About Two Acres) 372 Ground Plan of Complete Garden (About One Acre) 374 Ground Plan of Quarter Acre Suburban Complete Garden ......... 376 Kitchen Garden with Glass and Fruit (About Two Acres) 378 Herbaceous Border, etc., on Outskirts of Lawn WITH Background of Flowering Trees and Shrubs 380 Xll ILLUSTRATIONS WITH Herbaceous Double-Borders arranged as to Colour Herbaceous Border at Corner on Outskirts of Lawn, Showing System of Arrangement of Patches of Tall amongst Dwarf Plants Simple Rockery — Ground Plan and Section Rock Garden — Ground Plan and Section Rose Garden on Grass or Gravel, Preferably Stone Edging to the Beds . Rose Garden of Beds and Arches on Grass Water Lily Pond (Cemented) ... Water Lily Pond (Clayed) — Ground Plan Section Plain Pergola Bounding Lawn-Tennis Ground Rustic Pergolas — Ground Plan and Elevations Shrubbery and Planting Arrangement Wall-Enclosed Semi-Urban or Suburban Fruit Garden with Glass Houses Fruit Plantation, Mixed (About Two Acres) . and 382 384 386 388 390 392 394 396 398 400 402 404 406 PROLOGUE DREAM GARDENS Dream Gardens, and yet real gardens — the gardens which have been seen in past days, and the fragrant essence of which, expressed in the still of memory, comes back with tenfold sweetness, to give us the impulse for making beautiful gardens of our own. Time deals very kindly with these gardens of our dreams. It winnows out all the little sharp husks of imperfection — the weedy corner, the ill-placed shrub- bery, the incongruous bed — and preserves only the solid grains of general effect, of collective beauty. It invests them with a golden glamour. My '' dream gardens " are those which I see again by the winter fireside. The lawn outside may be deep in snow, but in fancy it is flooded with sunlight, and the heart of the countryside is palpitating with the passion of life. The dreary present is forgotten, and I live in a past that is green with the Spring garment of the forests, and glowing with the Summer livery of gardens. I dream of a fair Kentish garden, within a mile or two of sleepy Hythe. I see it as I saw it first, at dawn on a June morning. I had come to it fresh from fierce, chill Highland dawns. I had gone from Stirling to Bannockburn, from Bannockburn to Aberfoyle, and then through the gleaming heather hills to the sides of Loch Vennachar. From Callander I had steered for Loch A 2 THE PERFECT GARDEN Lubnaig and Lochearnhead, then passed through Glen Dochart to Tyndrum and Dahnally, made the northern curve of mighty Loch Awe, and so gained the shores of Loch Etive and Oban. There, in the June morning, the grey mists cHng late to the twin peaks of Ben Cruachan, separating themselves slowly and reluctantly from the departing shadows of night ; and when dawn breaks at length over lake and mountain — over the lofty summit of Ben Eunaich, over the wild slopes of the Pass of Brander, over the shining waters of Loch Linnhe — it is a dawn of twirling mist-wreaths and opal cloud-banks ; a dawn of cold fires, half quenched in their birth ; a dawn of titanic struggle between the chill vapours that the great hills breed and the ever- strengthening beams of the sun. In this sweet garden of Kent the dawn breaks with the softness of a benison. Tender glows steal over the forehead of the Downs, and spread towards the sea. The morning lights creep towards the garden with the soft, stealing motion of the slow marsh waterways. The garden lies almost under the shelter of the Downs — a mere thread of valley, shut in to the north by a friendly spur, sheltered from the east by a wood, and enjoying a climate of its own. Within a mile or two are bleak slopes, with a sward that will only support a rough, hardy class of stock ; here vegetation is luxuriant. The cool, deep, peaty earth, the humid atmosphere, the shelter, all combined in one little plot of an acre or two, form ideal conditions for rhododendrons and azaleas, for rambler roses, for clematises, for daffodils, for primulas, for the hundred and one beautiful plants that love soft air and moisture. The tender dawn lights, penetrating with their soft persuasiveness the sheltering belt of tree foliage, fall on DREAM GARDENS 3 banks of rhododendrons — plants as massive as orchard apple trees, with flower trusses as large as vases, whose great crimson urns glow with hot fire in the fresh morning rays. The orange and salmon and cinnamon of the azaleas shine like burnished copper. On a tall column of wellingtonia, dismantled by a gale, sprawls a mountain clematis, its sprays of palHd flowers clinging to the worn, brown trunk like a babe to a peasant grandmother. A splash of purplish red by the side of running water indicates a colony of Japanese primroses {primula japonicd), and on a wild bank the last flowers of a colony of poet's narcissus shine. I have seen this garden in all its phases — in Spring, in Summer, in shower, in sunshine — but it is as I saw it first, in the flush of a June dawn, fresh from the chill and ghostly splendour of the Highland mornings, that its beauty was most appealing. Then it glowed and shone with all the gracious warmth of the South — hot, generous, impulsive, irresistible. One of the fairest gardens of my winter dreams is a rose pleasaunce. Near the half-way stage of a long hill in the heart of the Kentish Downs, a range of glass houses is seen over the top of a lofty wall. A wicket gate invites an entry, and a courteous head gardener willingly shows the way to an inner garden, also wall enclosed. In the days when royalty held the demesne this was a prosaic kitchen garden, but later it was turned into a rosery, a fresh vegetable garden being made in a place farther from the house. There were fruit trees here of old time — gnarled, lichen-encrusted veterans, venerable, hoary, but not altogether incapable of a slow, hobbly, creaky, joint- twisting attempt at bearing every two or three years. They were relieved of this onerous duty, and given a 4 THE PERFECT GARDEN lighter one — that of supporting climbing roses — after their upper branches had been pruned back. Sweet young rose and crabbed old apple — seventeen and seventy ! See their wooing in the summer breezes. The flower-laden tresses of the rose bend towards the weather-beaten trunk, touch it lightly with perfumed lips, and then spring away. Sometimes they twine themselves around it, and droop their bud-laden crests over its grey crown in tender, soothing caresses. On boisterous days they are frankly sportive, and lay the lash on the flanks of their decrepit steed to a merry tune. Arches and pergolas span the paths of the rose pleasaunce. The long green rods stand erect by the brown larch pillars, as vigorous and supple as ash saplings ; and the flowering laterals swarm overhead like gay tropical birds. Crimson Rambler and Car- mine Pillar, Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, F61icit^ Perp^tue and Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, Ards Rover and L'Ideal, Dundee Rambler and Maiden's Blush — roses red and roses white, roses copper, carmine, pink, crimson, and yellow — fling their sprays from arch to arch. It is a riot of roses — a melee of soft, fluttering shapes, as full of life, of grace, of swift, sinuous, elusive movement, as the play of the fawns in the park beyond the walls. And I dream of a sweet-pea garden. This has no old-time flavour. It does not steal into my winter musings with an association of grey, staid orcharding, or of stiff yew alleys and sleepy sundials. It is modern, strenuous, fiercely vital. The flower is in the fire of transformation by the florist, and new varieties pour out hotly, like the editions of evening newspapers. But the exquisite forms and tender tints are a revela- DREAM GARDENS 5 tion of grace. The wavy " standard," as delicate as a tracery of lace, the curved " wings," tinted and shaped like the ears of nymphs, have all the appealing charm of the soft features of beautiful children. It is a dance of butterflies that one sees where the rows and clumps of the sweet peas stand. The blossoms hover around the sticks like glittering moths, now poising themselves immobile, now fluttering away. Daily fresh hosts appear, and the more regular the harvest the more persistent the crop. The reaper multiplies by reaping. I dream, too, of a water garden, lying cool and reposeful in the heat haze. I see the great, radiant stars of the nymphaeas cushioned in the shadowed water. Ripples of light run along the surface, and play among the reeds. The slender stems of the sedges sway idly. Fat brown stems quiver away into the cool depths. Here and there plump, chubby buds peer out, listen, and then, unrobing little by little — suspicions only half disarmed — disclose an adorable bosom of tender pink. The blue nymphaea shows the reflection of an unclouded sky, the yellow borrows its delicious shade from the Medea rose growing near by. The water garden, tree-enclosed, is the playground of the shadows, and its tranquil beauty grows- more pleasing from its very changefulness. Soft and soothing in the hot noontide, it throws a slumberous spell over the artist and the reader. And in the still summer night it is full of tender whispers. Other dreams ! In the raw of an April morning I have led my bicycle across the gangway of a Great Eastern steamer at the Hook of Holland, and am riding towards the Hague. My first objective is Leyden, my second, Haarlem. Between the university town and the flower capital lie the radiant acres of the bulb farms, 6 THE PERFECT GARDEN where, from March to May, the flower-lover may ride for miles amid crocuses, daffodils, hyacinths, irises, and tulips. The lofty spire of Haarlem's great church stands as the central object of a world of flowers. One spends a happy morning at Bennebroek, at Hillegom, at Over- veen, or at some other sweet flower village ; is drawn to a recital on the great Haarlem organ, or to an hour with Cuyp in the picture galleries, during the afternoon ; and then joyously fills the fragrant spring evening with another ride among the flowers. And in the winter gloaming sweet remembrances come — of a whole countryside burning with the fierce glow of tulips, of somnolent windmills, of slow barges creeping along the canals, of the perfume of hyacinths in cottage gardens, of square, quaintly-clad peasants stolidly staring. Or the flower-dream may be of Cornwall, whose gardens are as imperishable as her rocks. I ride forth from Penzance, and steer towards Land's End. I mount a long stiff slope, descend another, cross the high-road to St. Just, and on my right find a pretty, flower-covered lodge. A long, winding drive, flanked with shrubs, leads me into a beautiful pleasaunce, where mighty rhodo- dendrons hang out their glowing lanterns of flowers, where azaleas glisten and sparkle ; where magnolias, pallid as distant stars, shine on bare stems ; where golden streamers of forsythia, fiery clusters of crimson thorn, and drooping racemes of laburnum, shine ; where silvery clematises clothe gnarled pillars ; where larch and pine rise in tall columns, where cypresses spread plumes of green and bronze. Beside the winding paths cushions of coloured primroses, auriculas, and poly- anthuses clothe the ground. Anemones sparkle in the undergrowth. Colonies of squills, grape and feather hyacinths, and forget-me-nots, form happy communities. DREAM GARDENS 7 In the rockeries irises gleam, and broad mats of arabises and aubrietias cling to the face of the stones. The picture of this fair Cornish garden Hngered with me when I stood on the cliffs at Land's End, watching the white surf spouting around the Longships lighthouse ; and when I picked my way over the stone-strewn but beautiful road which leads by Morvah and Zennor to St. Ives. But clearer still, and fairer, I see it now, by my fireside, on a night of winter tempest. Memory paints it in faithful detail, with a brush that lingers lovingly. And she brings, on her gentle wings, not only the odours of long-dead flowers, but the sweet balm of hope, which whispers of roses, and sweet peas, and nymphaeas that will come again, when Spring shall advance out of the South with the smiles of a bride, and turn to reality what now are only dreams. PART I THE OUTLOOK CHAPTER I THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN The garden of reality takes shape gradually from the gardens of dreams. Out of the maze of beautiful fea- tures which have been seen a few stand out in the memory, at first isolated and inchoate, but presently blending and merging into a whole. The definite plan of a garden is developed almost like the conception of a complex human character. One is attracted to it, but baffled by it. There is much to admire, but little to grasp. Perfect comprehension will not come at a bound, and it will not come at all unless there is innate sympathy, a measure of intuition, and a wide, unprejudiced outlook. The trouble lies in the difficulty which people have in harmonising the practical with the ideal. In the garden, as in the human being, they see certain charac- teristics which appeal to their best instincts. The beauty of a rose garden stimulates them like the elo- quence of a statesman. They find the same intellectual pleasure in a good herbaceous border as in the per- formance of a great actor. But they find it as difficult to imagine that the rose garden is built on ordure as to comprehend that the cabinet minister has climbed upwards by devious paths of party strategy ; and they have no clearer comprehension of the methods by which the herbaceous border is put together than they have of the secret dressing-room processes by which 12 THE PERFECT GARDEN the shaven, square-jawed stroller in the Strand is con- verted into the picturesque hero of opera or drama. To say that women have the greatest difficulty in effecting this harmony is merely to repeat in another form the platitude that their emotions outrun their judg- ment. Women have the capacity for getting greater enjoyment out of gardens than men, but not a greater power of forming them. They love flowers, and, for- getting that affection does not always suffice, sometimes crowd their gardens with far too many kinds. In many cases they merely plant them, they do not grow them. It is delightful to collect plants in one's travels. The flowers are pleasing in themselves, and still more from their associations — for the beautiful places, the pleasant companions, they recall. But every garden has its limits, and a small one quickly becomes so overcrowded that the plants suft'er. This does not make for perfect gardens. There is nothing more calculated to appeal to the ideal in human nature than a beautiful garden, but it would be as foolish to confound appreciation with creative capacity in gardening as to associate enjoyment of music with the ability to sing. There is reality in the study of gardening, as in that of music. There is plant study, soil study, manure study, tool study behind suc- cessful work. There may be something of drudgery in it, as in the practising of scales, and in the writing of novels. Success rarely comes at a bound. A beautiful garden represents the sum of idealised human effort on practical lines. It cannot be made out of charming phrases. The eloquence of the political orator may stir an audience to momentary enthusiasm, but unless the speech is based upon Hansard, the Ency- clopedia Britannica, a particular blue-book, and certain economic truths, the ultimate result will be failure. THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 13 The psychology of a garden might be made as interesting a study as the psychology of a human soul by a deft anatomist. It is the expression of a human spirit, animated by complex feelings — by love, by a yearning for the companionship of beautiful and de- pendent things, by a vague, indeterminate discontent with the earth as it is, by the irresistible impulse to find vent for emotions which one is reluctant to expose to one's fellows. In gardens is expressed what the flower lover is unable to express in painting or in poetry. They are the record of an art which the world does not see, of verse that it does not hear. If a human soul is not coherent, it is because it lacks that knowledge of selection and restraint which is required to visualise its emotions, and make them interesting and helpful to others. Impulses towards the ideal are impeded by inaccurate conceptions of the real. The actual and the abstract are in conflict. The soul of the garden often has the same singular contrast of reality and abstraction, because it is the ex- pression of a human effort in which impulse is not in union with knowledge. There is a moment in the work of every novelist when the story which he is writing commences to fight for its head. If he be a beginner he exults. Inspira- tion has come at last. He has been piecing his work together by slow labour hitherto, now the joints fall into place of their own volition. The story proceeds henceforth to tell itself ; he, the reputed author, is merely the automaton which dips the pen in the ink. He surrenders himself, a willing slave, to the domina- tion of a beloved master. The experienced craftsman knows better than this. He is aware that the moment when the story begins to tell itself is the crisis of his 14 THE PERFECT GARDEN work, that he is at a parting of the ways, and must either retain possession by a supreme effort of will or be carried on to failure. For stories cannot tell themselves ; they do not know how to do so. They have not learned the art of " construction " ; they do not understand "restrauit"; they are unfamiliar with the meaning of "anti-climax"; they cannot create "atmosphere." Gardens are as incapable of making themselves as novels, but even more ready to take the task in hand, and bring confusion upon their owner. They stimulate emotion as effectively as human characters and situa- tions, and it is in this mental excitement that the most mistakes are made. The companionship of flowers exercises a far more potent influence on some minds than the companionship of either real or fictitious people, and it is precisely these minds that are the most liable to be carried away. In a sense we are all gardeners to-day. Cultured people talk of gardening as they talk of books, and paintings, and music. Not to know something of climbing roses, and irises, and phloxes is as grave a dereliction as to be ignorant of art. A knowledge of gardening is a part of education. But the making of a garden tests the depths of education. It concentrates the knowledge of life, the judgment, the taste, the character, on an acre or two of bare earth just as they are concentrated on the three hundred pages of a novel. Any person of culture can appreciate a beauti- ful garden, but only a genius can make one without preliminary study. Nature is not the truest guide to artistic gardening. She is sometimes forcible, but she is invariably crude. She uses flowers, as she uses tragedies, without any THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 15 thought for effect. Her work is merely the outcome of the instincts of reproduction, and of killing. Primal instinct may lead rival to stab rival, and he does it with no consideration of setting or background ; murderer and victim do not place themselves so that the limelight shall fall on their hate-distorted and anguish-twisted features. It is blow — cry — flight ! The murderer goes with blood upon him ; he uses his own knife ; he tries to burn his stained clothing, but only half succeeds. There is no "mystery," which detectives solve at the thirtieth chapter ; all is plain, gory, elementary. And Nature fhngs plants about very much as she flings blows. They grow where the conditions suit them. It may be that they have a beauty of their own, but it is not the beauty of educated thought. The flowers are not there to express ideals of beauty; they are there for increase. There is an art which transcends all that Nature can do in gardening, and it is to make an intimate study of good plants, and to give them such conditions as to aspect, soil, manure, and pruning as shall give them a fair chance of making handsome individuals. Is not a Venus of Milo worth a million plaster casts ? To collect a scrap-heap of weeds from every country in Europe, and then fling clinkers among them, is not to make a garden. There is a danger of a cult of horticultural hotch-potch growing up, every whit as preposterous as the bedding craze of years gone by. Before a person becomes a garden-maker he should be a practical plant student. A practical plant student is a natural gardener, because he learns what plants want, and is resolute to give it to them. A beautiful garden will grow up on this spirit better than on theories of design and the laws of landscape gardening. i6 THE PERFECT GARDEN It is not pretended that a knowledge of plants will make mistakes in gardening impossible. A first study of plants is generally of a somewhat academic character, and theories about their uses are formed prematurely. It is concluded that what looks well on paper must look well in the garden, and, even with good plants, disappointment ensues. But the point is that good plants inherently make good gardens, and mistakes in arrangement are easily noted and remedied. If the strategy is correct there is a margin for covering de- fective tactics. The value of our "dream gardens" is that they give suggestions for beautiful arrangements. They do not so much teach us to know plants as to dispose them in effective ways. We can rarely make a copy of a garden that will equal the original one, any more than we can reproduce a Rembrandt with absolute faithfulness. But with good plants at our command we can often introduce one feature from this garden and another from that, and so build up a unit of our own, the cumulative effect of which is satisfying, and at the same time bears the impress of individuality. The greatest mistakes in garden-making arise from ignorance of plants. Errors of effect and errors of economy both spring from this cause. Plants are not like bricks and stone, steel and wood. With so many thousands of bricks, so much mortar, and so many yards of timber, an architect will construct a more or less handsome building, the merits or defects of which, viewed externally, are entirely dependent upon his design. But the garden does not stand or fall by design alone, because its components vary under con- ditions of aspect, climate, soil, and cultivation. It is often the case that people make a garden, and THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN 17 then commence to learn about the plants in it. They ought to first study the plants, and then make the garden. A study of beautiful plants is a liberal educa- tion. It does more than make gardens ; it makes characters. In the whole world of animated Nature there is nothing more beautiful than a wild rose except a cultivated one, and the superiority of the cultivated rose does not lie so much in its own virtues as in the fact that it is grown better. To cultivate good plants in such a way that they attain to the utmost beauty of form and colour of which they are capable has the same humanising effect as training a child. The good influences at work are reactive. The simplicity of the young mind corrects the didactic tendencies of the old. The fresh, spontaneous sym- pathies and impulses of the unformed intellect give new life to the fading fires of the matured one. When gardening is interpreted as the study of plants and their culture, it presents itself in its highest phase. It is education in action. To grow plants well is to love them ; to grow them well and love them well is to arrange them well. The majority of women dispose flowers artistically in a vase because they have strong affections. A sense of the beautiful springs out of love. A man does not love cut flowers as a woman does ; consequently, he does not, as a rule, arrange them with equal grace and taste. The majority of men have no real love for cut flowers, and professional gardeners hate to see them taken from the plants ; forgetting that, generally speaking, the more a plant is cut from the better it blooms. Taste in gardening is educated love. Affection gives the impulse, knowledge the guidance. Love is the road, education the lamp that lights it. CHAPTER II DESIGN, AND THE HOME-MADE GARDEN Design has long ruled with tyrannical sway over British gardens. It is to the landscape gardener what the crow^n is to the monarch — the symbol that impresses the multitude with respect and awe. When the garden designer is first summoned it is generally with the idea of a consultation, in which opinions will be interchanged. He will suggest this, we shall suggest that. We shall tell him of the many beautiful features that we have seen or thought of, and he will listen sympathetically, approving here, throw- ing out hints of improvement there ; and so, one stimu- lating the other, with pleasant mutual reactions, we shall arrive at that harmonious understanding which promises success. But this is reckoning without Design, which has fastened on the landscape gardener and made him its prey ; and which now prompts him to fly to pencil and cartridge-paper. He desires, in his heart, to give us what we want nearly as much as we w^ant it ourselves ; but he is over-ridden by his training. So we get our plan, draw our cheque, and make the garden. It is not, however, the garden of our inmost selves. It is a garden that we admire, and even develop an affection for, but it is a sort of foster garden, not bone of our bone, and flesh of our flesh. i8 THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 19 Design rules what is termed the informal as strictly as it ruled the formal garden. Rockeries, borders, and arches are as stereotyped as terraces and geometrical beds once were. One place is marked out for a pergola, another for a shrubbery, a third for an arbour. There is no scope for individuality. Worst of all, there is a deplorable cramming in of a multitude of plants for which not a spark of real affection exists, and which, consequently, are not well grown. Thousands of people deplete their purses and sour their lives over rock gardens, which have nothing in common with the con- figuration of the place, and are hustled in by main force. Granted that among Alpine plants are to be found some of the loveliest of floral gems, it remains the fact that a rockery is often as much out of place as a solitary rose arch in the middle of a walk. The writer has recollections of a grassy bank, some- what shaded, in the garden of a friend — a bank sloping to water. Of course, it was the ideal place for a first blush of snowdrops, a second of daffodils and poet's narcissus, and a third of foxgloves, with willow herbs near the water. But it was seized upon for a rock garden, and there followed such excavating, such cart- ing in of stones and soil for mounds, such windings and terracings so that the water could trickle down from stone to stone, such forming of pockets, such arranging of "aspects," such poring over catalogues for plants, as never were before ! It cost nearly ^100 to turn a corner of beautiful repose and peace into a paltry and contemptible imitation of an Alpine nook. Such are the enormities practised in the sacred name of Nature ! In nine cases out of ten the garden that grows under the hands of those who love flowers is more beautiful than the garden that is designed, just as the schoolgirl's 20 THE PERFECT GARDEN first effort at a bouquet is generally more attractive than the last example of the art of the trained male. If a finished garden is a failure, it is much more likely to be because the worker did not know his plants than because of the absence of a plan. Gardens, like plants, ought to grow. They should not be made to contract within a specified time, like an asylum, or a block of Poor Law buildings — which, with a peculiar sense of the appropriate, usually work out at about ;^5oo per bed ! The class of garden that is made to order is the one that its owners spend no time in, because they are too much engrossed with business affairs. There is no reason why a mining magnate should not have a garden made for him under contract just the same as he has a new wing put on to his house, but he will not garden for himself ; he will have a staff of trained men to do it for him. He is not a gardener. He likes to see his dinner-table brightened up with plants and flowers, and he likes to have an adequate dessert, but he makes no pretence at taking plants into his life, and making them constant, dear companions. There is joy in planning a garden for oneself, but there is still greater joy in making changes on that plan when the actual gardening is being done. It is like the motor tour. Directly the car is ordered maps are brought out, and the first tour arranged to the smallest detail. Here we stay the first night, there the second. The itinerary gives us an hour in this town, two hours in that. The speed is to be a uniform i8 miles per hour, and the actual driving-time is to be exactly six hours, so that we cover io8 miles per day. What really happens is that we overrun our first resting- place because we have got entangled in a duel with THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 21 another car, and fall short of the second owing to a punctured tyre. Somebody at an hotel tells us that our road is " up " a few miles ahead, and suggests a digression for the sake of getting a better running sur- face ; or we are warned that there is a police trap over a certain stretch (as if police traps had any significance for people traveUing 18 miles per hour !) which can be avoided by a certain detour. We learn of bits of scenery, of picturesque churches or ruins. And so, going where the impulse of the moment leads us, we arrive at our destination at a time, and by a route, quite different from our original itinerary. But we get there. If we develop gardens on this somewhat incoherent plan shall we not find that, like the budding novelist, we have been run away with — that the story has told itself, to our complete satisfaction at the moment, but to our dire discomfiture when the critic lays on the lash ? Not if we know our plants intimately, and have an eye to colour. While plants grow under our hands from seeds, and cuttings, and layers, all sorts of ideas will come to us for using them — ideas that have nothing in common with the smell of the lamp. We shall see how these fit in with our original design, and if they do not harmonise we shall throw overboard one or the other — often the plan. When we accept Design as the ruler of the garden we have come to finality. The garden has to be laid out in such a way, and is laid out in such a way. Dare we afterwards alter it ? A thousand times no. The garden is a finished work of art. It is complete. To interfere with it were sacrilege. The most that we dare do is to pass a reverent duster over it, and that in fear and trembling, lest we deface it. The garden that grows is always changing. A mis- 22 THE PERFECT GARDEN placed bed is not like the laws of the Medes and Per- sians, fixed, unalterable. A few square yards of turf, or a pound or two of grass seed, and the bed is wiped out ; it is as though it had never been. And if we find that the pretty spring dell which we were so keen upon proves to be disappointing, with a load or two of shingle and a few bags of cement we can line the bottom and sides, and turn it into a water-lily pool. People who take plants into their lives should never be content to let alien hands arrange them, any more than they should permit their drawing-rooms to be finished off by the decorators. Outside help must come in, it is true. The shovelling out of earth, the beating down of turf, the wheeling of manure, are as obviously the tasks of hired labour as the papering of walls and the laying of carpets. But beyond this there should be nothing done in which the hand of the owner is not prominent. Home-made gardens are full of possibilities of both good and evil. Like home-made bread, they may be either heavy and indigestible, or light and wholesome. The leaven of good sense is wanted in them. Fixed proportions of flour, water, yeast, coal, and time, make, in theory, the perfect loaf ; but in practice they often yield a close mass. So many plants, so much manure, will not in themselves make a garden ; the yeast of taste and knowledge is wanted also. The magnitude of the issue must be the stimulus to study. Is the garden less a part of the home than the rooms ? Are the plants less interesting than the chairs and tables ? If the garden grows under the hands of the owner it will be an integral feature of the home. The two will never be thought of as separate units, but always as one. And if the plants which make up the garden are raised by the THE HOME-MADE GARDEN 23 garden-maker they will grow into his life as loved children do. The union of home and garden is a sacred social duty. The garden not only creates beautiful pictures and delightful odours, but pure thoughts, high aspira- tions, and noble ideals. The garden-home is the seat of the purest affections, the truest outlook on life, the highest conception of humanity. For the writer's own part, he cannot see the tragedy of commercial life in all its grimness and pathos amid the roar of factories, and in the jostle of fetid streets. He is overcome there by the gregarious instinct, oppressed by the inertia of inevitability. The tendency to become one of the crowd — to be carried away on the stream of human impulse, to drift in an atmosphere of irresponsibility, to have individuality merged in the collective helplessness of the mass ; and to yield to the hopeless, humiliating con- viction that this vulgar and squalid strife of conflicting interests is the best that the world can do — this tendency is almost irresistible. But in the quietude of the garden he escapes this sucking-under of personality, this numbing of volition. He sees the social system in its true perspective. He sees, too, that if, and when, he can make of the slum-dweller a gardener he will secure for him also that aloofness, that detachment, without which it is impossible for him to see and understand the problems of his existence. In so far as Design harnesses a sense of order to the gardening impulse it is good, but when it goes farther, and paralyses initiative and individuality, it is bad. It must never become the master, but always remain the servant, of the garden-maker. CHAPTER III THE COST OF GARDENING Although there is much of the purely ideal in gardening, it cannot be dissociated from such practical matters as bank balances and the payment of debts. Florists and seedsmen are an admirable body of men, often as much interested in plants for the sake of their beauty as for the sake of the profit they bring ; but in the end they like to have their bills settled. There is no purpose served by divorcing gardening from the ordinary rules of business and common sense. There is always a certain necessary capital expendi- ture on making a garden, just as there is in building a house, and in both cases there is the further cost of furnishing and upkeep — a very variable quantity. Would you have your hall panelled with oak, and your walls hung with pictures by artists of the highest standing ? Would you refuse to buy a table or a chair which did not have a history ? Would you have a large staff of servants, and entertain extensively ? These are the questions which decide your household economy. And there are corresponding questions connected with the garden. The extent of the glass houses which are erected has an important bearing, because they involve a current as well as a capital expenditure, for instance, in heating and skilled labour. Almost more important is the point as to w^hether the garden is to be kept 24 THE COST OF GARDENING 25 alive with an expensive diet of novelties, bought annu- ally at special rates, or is to be sustained with plain, wholesome, everyday fare, raised at home. Many people impoverish themselves in a most painful and unnecessary way by gardening. A set of garden accounts for a year were once placed before the writer, and he saw that they amounted to ;^30oo. Of course, it was a large place, but even so, the sum was considerable. What was got for it ? A pretty rose garden, a lawn, shrubberies, some flower beds, a collection of chrysanthemums, two houses of carna- tions, a house or two of table plants, vineries, peach houses, a kitchen garden, and a fair collection of fruit trees. The amount did not include anything for capital expenditure; it was cost of upkeep alone. And there had been practically no money spent on new varieties of plants ; dahlia novelties at 7s. 6d. each, new orchids at anything up to ;^5oo a piece, new daffodils at ;^20 a bulb, had been left severely alone ; the owner had merely indulged in " necessaries." To numbers of people, however, new dahlias, orchids, and daffodils do not appear in the light of luxuries ; they are ordered just as naturally as beef and mutton. Florists make their best profits out of novelties, and this is well enough for just so long as it is assessed at its proper value. When novelties are regarded as the beginning and the end of gardening, and lead to thoughtless people spending more than they can afford, then becoming embittered, and checking the expansion of gardening by mournful tales of its costliness, it is not so well. Gardening is expensive to those people who have a passion for ^ possessing every new thing, but then, so is dressing. Just as folk may go to church in decent broadcloth, and cut a fair figure in society, 26 THE PERFECT GARDEN without spending half their income on dress, so it is possible to garden with credit and success without having, in the end, to " consult one's creditors." In the development of the garden from the wild, it is prudent to consider expenditure under the following heads : — 1. Acquisition of land. 2. Ground labour. 3. Erection of buildings (if any). 4. Stocking with plants. 5. Purchase of tools and implements. 6. Annual upkeep. Under the first heading comes the important question of area. Various considerations hold sway ; conflicting requirements have to be reconciled. Many a man who struggles on in a large house would live in comfort in a small one were it not for fear of neighbours. A cottage is one thing, one of a row of cottages is quite another. And so with the garden. " An acre would be quite enough for me, but if I only buy an acre, how do I know who will come on the other side?" Dead weights of unneeded land are hung round groaning necks, for fear of the other people who might buy it. The consideration occurs that it were better worth while to study the art of living in peace and amity with neighbours than to impoverish oneself in keeping them away ; but that is a matter of social ethics rather than of gardening. Viewing the question horticulturally, we raise, in connection with the matter of area, the question of labour. No one who proposes to do all his own gardening should allot himself more than an acre. Four square roods of flowers, fruit, vegetables, and grass will fill most of the time of an active man or THE COST OF GARDENING 27 woman. The extension or reduction of any of these four sections will not materially reduce the labour. There is a common delusion that grass economises considerably. It only does so to a very slight extent, if at all. Weeding, sweeping, mowing, and rolling are all needed to maintain a perfect sward. Shrubberies are perhaps the greatest economisers, but even they demand their share of time. Manuring, digging, weed- ing, and pruning are all necessary in their seasons. Those who cannot do their own gardens, and have to employ labour for the purpose, will be prudent if they make their calculations on the basis of a man an acre. Should there be no glass, a second acre could be controlled with the addition of a boy instead of another man. The cost of this labour will depend partly on its class, and partly on the district. The average, trained, single - handed gardener expects a minimum wage of twenty -five shillings a week; a labourer may serve for eighteen. The ground labour demanded in reclaiming the wild must necessarily vary. If it is ptain turf, fairly level, there will be little outlay. The turf has a face value of threepence per square yard, and shows a profit on lifting. What is retained will serve, after being stacked for a few months, as potting soil. The lawns can be made by the mere rolling, manuring, and mowing of the pasture. If it is arable land the lawns will have to be made by laying turf, or sowing seed. Money is often wasted in the ill-considered shifting of great masses of soil under the malign influence of Design, There are many places in which not a single spadeful of earth need be moved, except in the process of digging. The mischievous delusion exists that a garden cannot be a garden unless holes are dug out 28 THE PERFECT GARDEN here and mounds made there. People fail to realise that whatever unevenness of outline is desired can generally be secured far better by the inexpensive utilisation of carefully chosen plants than by the laborious processes of navvying. Borders must be made, of course, and in them the spade should be freely used ; it should not, however, be in moving soil away, but in deepening and manuring it where it lies, for the nourishment of those fine breaks of colour which, as we shall presently see, are to be the abiding glory of the garden. Ranges of glass houses are one of the most costly components of a garden. Some of the most beautiful of modern gardens have no glass, save perhaps a frame or two in which to raise seedlings. Modern flower gardeners do not admit the necessity of glass. They consider that it is cheaper to buy the forced fruit vegetables, and flowers which they want than to grow them. And a conservatory, so far from tempting them the most, does so the least, because they know that of all types of structure it is the most unsatisfactory for plants. A conservatory may, of course, be con- sidered an advantage as a lounge, but in that case it should be deemed rather as an annexe of the dwelling- house than as a part of the garden. Those who consider that a garden would be in- complete without glass houses must consider them in relation to two items of expense — cost of construction, and cost of upkeep. Structures of fair quality may be expected to cost about £i per foot run, including heating. A common type of house can be bought cheaper, a superior one much dearer. Where a vinery, a plant house, a conservatory, and frames are wanted, it will be wise to allow for the cost of an extra hand THE COST OF GARDENING 29 in addition to fuel. People who try to run a two-acre garden containing several glass houses with the sole aid of one " odd man " lay a heavy burden of care and worry on their shoulders. The cost of stocking a garden of any given size with plants is as difficult to calculate as the expense of furnishing a drawing-room. You can stock an acre for a few pounds, or for several hundreds of pounds. The great thing to remember is that it is not in the least necessary to spend a great deal of money. Seedsmen and florists make a great feature of " collec- tions" nowadays. One can buy a collection of 1000 bulbs for a guinea, and a box of vegetable seeds that would suffice for any ordinary garden for the same sum. The hardy-plant dealer will sell 100 rock plants for fifty shillings. The rose grower will supply excel- lent roses at from six shillings to eighteen shillings a dozen. Capital fruit trees are purchasable at a shilling each. Boxes of flower seeds are offered from a shil- ling each upwards. And so on. Observe, these are not " clearance sales " of odd rubbish. They are the ordinary stocks of reputable houses, who will put labels on the things they sell. Job lots are often to be picked up through the medium of auction sales, or advertisements in the gardening papers. Tools and implements can hardly be bargained for. They are not sold in "collections" as a rule, nor are there auction sales for them. There is not much variation in the range of prices. Spades and forks of good quality will cost 3s. 6d. to 5s. each wherever you go. Hoes and rakes are an unimportant item. A good wheelbarrow may cost a guinea. The greatest range of prices exists in connection with mowing machines. A 12-inch machine is as large as the average 30 THE PERFECT GARDEN mower will care to push without assistance, and it can be bought for 12s. 6d., or for £^, ids. It is best to buy a high-class machine, as it will do its work easily, and cost very little for repairs. The charges for annual upkeep will include wages, seeds, manure, fuel if there are heated houses, and the addition of new varieties of particular flowers, such as roses, carnations, and dahlias, if the gardener elects to specialise. The last is so important an item that the, greater part of the cost of the garden may be expected to turn on it. One could stock an acre of garden with beautiful flowers at the cost of one small bed of new carnations, which a hungry rabbit may eat off in a night. One of the most economically conducted gardens that the writer knows is also one of the most beautiful. The whole "estate" amounts to about ten acres. Half consists of meadow, which is fed off with sheep, except for a crop of hay every other year. A quarter is orchard, of which geese, turkeys, and fowls have the run. These are supposed to pay for them- selves, and leave a balance. The remaining quarter garden proper, comprising lawns, flower borders is (no beds), kitchen garden, and fruit trees. There is no glass of any kind ; it is an outdoor garden pure and simple. The owner of the place is a believer in the "simple life." He has no profession, and spends several hours of every day in the garden. He is never hurried, never worried. He employs no gardener. An " odd man " from the village helps him with the rough work when wanted. He never buys a novelty. He never labels a plant. He has abundance of fruit and vegetables to eat and some to sell. He has a charming flower garden. He has plenty of cut bloom. THE COST OF GARDENING 31 We agree cordially with the horrified professional who declares that this is not horticulture at all. It is a mere toying with the sacred art — if, indeed, it is not something worse. A certain Mr. Snipper, head gardener at the Squire's, was invited to walk round, and respectfully, but firmly, declined. He had no objection to people managing their places as they thought proper, none whatever. He was a broad- minded man, and his motto was live and let live. But he had to consider his position. This was a dignified and proper attitude for Snipper to assume. Gardening is gardening, after all. Snipper is to be respected. He is a distinguished ornament of a noble profession, and as far as in him lies he is going to maintain its great traditions. The worst of it is that the culprit cannot see what he is doing wrong. He has a thoroughly good time of it in his garden, he makes it pay its way, and Snipper is a stock jest with him. CHAPTER IV SPECIALISM IN GARDENING To combat the idea that gardening is necessarily ex- pensive is to do it a great service, and to confer a real blessing on the country. We cannot be a great nation in the best sense until we are a nation of gardeners, and we cannot be a nation of gardeners until we have learned to take a practical view of gardening. Why do people, when they take to gardening, allow themselves to fall victims to Specialism ? Why do they permit themselves to be hen-pecked by a flower, or, for the matter of that, by a class of flowers ? An ordi- narily intelligent person, with a due sense of economy in business or household matters, often becomes the readiest prey to Specialism. The reason is that he is unable to distinguish between essentials and embel- lishments. The writer has nothing whatever to say against dahlias, or rock gardens, or sweet peas. He has not the remotest objection to their being specialised (as a matter of fact, he specialises in one of them himself), provided it is done by the right class. The point he wants to establish is that specialism is not the ruler of gardening — a sort of flower-crowned autocrat without whose smiles success cannot be. Just as there can be specialism without gardening, so there can be gardening without specialism. 32 SPECIALISM IN GARDENING ^^ On the face of it, there is at least as good a case for simple flower gardening as there is for commonsense motoring. The rank and file of motorists know quite well that they cannot devote their lives and savings to high-powered monsters capable of winning the Kaiser's and other Cups. They have no wish to turn the highways into racing tracks. They are out for quiet enjoyment. But it seems the unhappy fate of gardening that people who take it up are either sucked into a vortex of exhibiting, or fall a victim to some plausible faddist. In either case they involve themselves in unnecessary expense, and lay upon their lives a burden of exactions and disappointments. When a committee of experts sit on a new orchid, and deliberate for an hour as to whether its particular shade of colour is slightly different from, or is identical with, an old variety, it is not for the great world of flower gardeners to hang upon the issue with breathless eagerness. The verdict affects one man, and one only — the owner of the reputed novelty. If the committee should decide in his favour, and give him an " award of merit," he will pocket a handsome sum of money. This is well for him as a business man, but how does it affect those who garden for the garden's sake — who run flowers for the sake of a garden, not the garden for the sake of a flower ? It does not affect them one iota. They can pursue their work with unruffled calm. The issue has its interest and importance, but not for them. The deliberations of that committee are a not unimpor- tant landmark on the pathway of specialism, but they bear only very slightly on the larger road of the garden. Let it be admitted that the florist has a case. He will contend that but for his operations flowers would never be improved. He will point to old types, and c 34 THE PERFECT GARDEN put new ones alongside them for comparison. So far from questioning the truth of his contentions we un- hesitatingly accept them. We appreciate the good work which he has done, and we hope that he will do more. He has enriched our gardens with hundreds of beautiful varieties, and we applaud him as a real benefactor to the human race. But we ask him to see the reason of our contention that we, beginners in garden making, are not legitimate specialists. We are not natural pur- chasers of novelties. Later on, perhaps, we may be. At present our business is certainly to learn the char- acter and culture of standard plants. If, in the course of our studies, we develop a passion for some particular flower, and come under the influence of a friend who grows it for exhibition, we may take a step forward. That lies in the lap of the future. The question whether specialism makes for the ulti- timate good of gardening might be debated at length. On the one hand there is the undoubted fact that the incessant demand for novelties leads to a constant influx of beautiful varieties. This is not now limited to what are termed " florist's flowers," such as roses, carnations, and dahlias, but extends to a considerable number of herbaceous plants. On the other hand is the fact that the bulk of novelties are not used for gardening at all, but for prize-winning. If we looked at novelties purely as novelties — if we could only regard them as material of the moment — we should certainly be driven to sum up against specialism. But we look ahead. We see that a particular variety has great possibilities. We know that for the time being it can only justify its cost by prize-winning, but we know also that in course of time, when it has become abundant and cheap, it will be capable of doing good service in the garden. SPECIALISM IN GARDENING 35 It comes to this : We, as gardeners, let the specialists get the chestnuts out of the fire for us. They have the first nibble, as is only fair. The nut is none the worse, when it comes to us, for the little bite which they have had out of it. Owners of large places who employ a staff of gardeners to do the work for them often complain of the effects of exhibiting. They consider, perhaps not without reason in some cases, that the particular flower specialised benefits at the expense of other things in the garden. They contend, too, that their freedom of action is impaired. They may look, from a respectful distance, at the flowers, but they must not touch them. It is as though they had a "keep off the grass" notice thrust before their eyes on their own premises, and by their own servants. Every person so situated must deal with the case on its merits, or as it presents itself to him. Beginners in gardening often start their lessons at exhibitions. They really ought to end there. It is common to see novices taking feverish, indiscriminating notes. An exquisite box of cactus dahlias arrests them. Every flower is a model of substance, form, and brilliant, lustrous colour. In a trice the names are rushed into a notebook, and then the representative of the competing firm, who has been hovering near, sidles up at the right moment, discreetly introduces a catalogue, and books the order. Well, these cactus dahlias may be satisfac- tory in the garden, but it is by no means unlikely that they will be quite the reverse, having thin, short, weak stems, which fail to lift them clear of the foliage. Thus, the varieties may be valuable for exhibition, but useless in the garden. The special floral societies did not do much for the 36 THE PERFECT GARDEN garden maker in their early days ; they lived for the exhibitor. But a new spirit is growing up. The societies take broader views than they used to do. Most of them issue information likely to be useful from the garden point of view, and some go so far as to experiment with novelties for the benefit of their members. On the whole, things are tending in the right direction, but garden makers must still proceed cautiously. The time has not yet come when gardens can be built up on shows, and on the proceedings of societies. Specialism, in short, remains specialism, and is from gardening a thing apart. CHAPTER V HOW TO LEARN GARDENING Some of the fine garden plants whicli exist are among the cheapest, and, moreover, are propagated with such ease and rapidity that a large quantity can be raised in a short time. How can we learn about such plants ? Where can we see them ? There are opportunities of acquiring knowledge, with a minimum of expense, and in a very agreeable way. Take, for instance, the nursery gardens. In many trades a great deal of secrecy is observed, and the workrooms are jealously guarded. In the Notting- hamshire lace factories the manufacturers like nothing so little as the casual visitor. He may be there because he is interested in industries, but they see in him the possible agent of a rival firm. In the horticultural trade there is no such spirit of suspicion. Nurserymen like their places visited. It is true that they may have a special stock which they do not care to show, but they do not close the whole of their grounds because of it ; they merely give it a reservation, or a greenhouse, to itself, and unostentatiously pass it by when leading visitors round. For the rest, come as often as you like, go where you like. And do not be afraid to badger the florist with questions. He is never a mere money-grubber ; plants are too interesting for that. He is very proud of his stock, and he likes to talk 37 38 THE PERFECT GARDEN about it. He will always give a pound's worth of information in exchange for a five-shilling order, and consider that he has made an excellent bargain. So he has, for his hearer will be helped and encouraged, and sooner or later will buy more plants. The spirit prevailing in trade gardening is of the finest sporting quality. Narrowness and suspicion are almost unknown. As an example, the writer was once asked to take charge of an expert committee to assess the merits and value of new varieties of a certain flower. Its members were nearly all representatives of different competing firms. What a Donnybrook Fair that committee-room might have been ! What trailings of coats ! What cracking of crowns ! What conflict of contending interests ! Well, there was nothing but good comradeship and brotherly love. Not an eye was blacked, not a head was thumped. The members judged the flowers on their merits, neither more nor less. There is a good nursery-garden near every large place in Great Britain. As a rule, it lies a mile or two outside the town, where land is cheaper, and smoke less abundant, than within the boundaries. The instructive part of these places is that many of the plants are labelled. It is true that some are grown under number only, but this is not because the nurseryman wants to conceal their identity : it is merely a matter of convenience, and in very few cases will the name be withheld if it is asked for. Just think of visiting a rose nursery in July ! Not a show in the land can compare with such an ex- perience for either pleasure or instruction. Here you do not see specially-selected and carefully-dressed flowers, and nothing more. You see, not only the HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 39 flower, but the plant which it belongs to. You can see whether it is a strong grower or a weak one. You can see how it is suited by a particular class of soil. You can see whether it is a free bloomer or the reverse. And, almost best of all, you can find out, by a little observation and a question or two, what sort of pruning suits it best. Such a visit to a rose nursery is in itself a pure delight, but it is also a liberal education. If you are fortunate you may catch the head of the firm when he is going his rounds. Naturally you will, at first, hang back, for fear of intruding, or making undue inroads on his leisure, but he will speedily put you at your ease, and you and he will much enjoy each other's society. Then there are the public parks and botanic gardens. A great deal of scorn has been heaped on the parks on account of the crudeness of their flower gardening, which is still of the " Elementary Jane " order. The fact of the matter is that the bedding system is not dead, or even in the way of dying. It is alive and flourishing. Just as there are different publics for different classes of book, so there are different publics for gardening. There is a class of book which sells in its thousands. It opens with a murder of the most mysterious and sanguinary character, and a man walking out of the house where it has been com- mitted wearing a dazed look, and floods of the ruddiest gore. Anon it introduces an Adventuress — generally with red hair — who conspires against a heroine (usually answering to the name of Clare or Joyce, rarely to Mary Ann) with soft hazel eyes, and a sweet, grave expression. The man with the dazed look is Clare's (or Joyce's) lover, and is falsely accused of the murder. As, in addition to the dazed look and 40 THE PERFECT GARDEN the gore, he is wearing the victim's shirt, he is promptly haled off to gaol. In the last chapter but one the crime is brought home to the Adventuress, and in the last, Clare (or Joyce), and the man with the dazed look (who has now got back into his own shirt), kneel side by side at the hymeneal altar. This is what we may call "bedding-plant literature." It appeals to those crude natures which like plain colours, laid on with a thick brush. No nonsense about Art here, if you please. We do not know what Art means, and we do not particularly want to. We want a good, honest thrill at the end of every chapter, and when we reach the point in our serial where [to be continued) is reached, we want to find ourselves con- fronted with a situation that will put us on the tenter- hooks of curiosity. Those who have to cater for the horticultural tastes of the masses in the large towns probably know their public just as well as the publisher who produces bedding-plant literature, and it is foolish to blame them severely. If a park superintendent tried to get ahead of public taste, he would probably find that his Town Council (largely composed of grocers and the like) wanted to know what he meant by it. Of course we do not blame the superintendent, but equally we are not going to take him as our teacher in flower gardening. Occasionally one of his class gives us a bed suitable for imitation in a private garden, but not often. Even where his designs are moderate and pleasing, they are often made up of mixtures of hardy and tender materials. Indoor plants of great size, altogether beyond the scope of amateurs, are " bedded out." This is the great defect, considered from the educational point of view, of the flower gardening at HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 41 Hampton Court, which is, in the main, well done. Hyde Park and Regent's Park are open to the same criticism. Kew is a better school than the parks, because a greater proportion of hardy material is employed, and plants are given a chance of showing their individuality. The soil is well prepared, manure is used liberally, the plants are given room to develop into worthy examples of their kind, and they are intelligently pruned. The trees and shrubs are particularly well managed. The rose garden is excellent. There is a good rock-garden. The masses crowd to Kew in Summer, but flower lovers should go at every opportunity during Autumn, Winter, and Spring, because it is then that the greater part of the planting is in progress, and opportunities are afforded of seeing how things are done. Those who suppose that flower gardens are built up on theories will learn how important a part such prosaic things as spades and manure play in making them. Kew makes deep beds of manured soil for its plants, and uses knife and pruning-saw with refreshing vigour. The rank and file of private gardens are not very valuable as sources of lessons in flower-gardening, be- cause tender plants are largely used in them. The bedding system still rules. The bad old idea of groups of tender plants on the near edge of lawns, instead of wide borders of hardy kinds on the further extremity, still rules. It is a great pity to cut up an expanse of sward just under the windows of a house into a series of geometrical beds, and to fill them with tender things. Distant colour from bold, carefully chosen groups is much more effective. However, herbaceous borders are extending rapidly, and it is more common than it was to find instructive examples of good colour work. 42 THE PERFECT GARDEN This is particularly the case where the flower-gardening is supervised by an educated person who really takes the trouble to become acquainted with plants. It is unwise for owners of gardens who employ professionals to interfere in the flower-gardening, except when forti- fied real by knowledge. A great many do, and the result is endless friction, frequent changes of men, undue expense, and a hotch-potch. The orthodox professional gardener will generally do a place well in his own way, and had better be left to that way, unless his employer is really capable of teaching him a better. The writer recalls numerous cases in which owners of gardens have expressed great dissatisfaction with their man on account of the flower- garden work. The gardener is good at vegetables and fruit, you are told, but his flower-gardening is built up on the rudimentary geranium-and-calceolaria basis. The owner (or more frequently the owner's wife) has been compelled to take this department over. There follows a tale of woe at the result — designs not properly carried out, plants neglected, insubordination, and muddling. In most of these cases the root of the trouble has been incapacity. The owners did not know enough to carry on a system of flower-gardening of their own, but only enough to harass and confuse a possibly well-meaning and industrious man. It is not suggested that educated people should not supervise their own flower-gardening with a view to introducing better systems. The contrary is the case. They are earnestly advised to do it, both for the benefit to the garden which may very well accrue, and for the amount of personal pleasure and health which it is possible for them to get out of it. The point is that they must disabuse their minds of the idea that artistic HOW TO LEARN GARDENING 43 flower-gardening can be picked up as easily as a stitch in Limerick lace. It needs earnest and intelligent study. It would be more easy for a dabbler in poetry to impose a discussion on Browning's poetry on a village " mothers' meeting," than for a person possessed of a mere superficial knowledge of hardy plants to impose a new system on a plain working gardener. Professional gardeners are not always so inherently obstructive and unprogressive as they appear to be — or, to put it in another way, as they are credited with being. Nowadays many of them see groups of hardy flowers at the principal shows — the Temple, the Royal Horti- cultural at Westminster, York, Edinburgh, and Shrews- bury — and become genuinely interested in them. There is no doubt that the great majority of modern gardeners would be just as pleased as their employers to do away with bedding out if their thoughts were turned in that direction, and they received encouragement and advice from persons competent to give it. Owners of large gardens who employ professional assistance had better not undertake the entire responsi- bility of the flower-gardening hastily. They will be wise to take over a " reservation " as a sort of exercise- ground, and practise there first. They might, for instance, have a fairly large border made, and try experiments on it, doing all their own work except trenching and manuring, buying or raising their own plants, and arranging them in their own ways. The success or failure of their border could then never become a matter for acrimonious argument ; it would rest on one person. Valuable experience would be gained, and a great deal of pleasure would be enjoyed. After all, the best way of learning gardening is to practise it. CHAPTER VI THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD From a horticultural point of view, any expanse of ground that has not been brought under the hand of the gardener is a wild. It may be a green meadow, cool and fresh in its spring garb, gilded with buttercups, dotted with lambs ; no matter, it is not a garden, it is a wild ! Is a person who makes money, and builds a house in the meadow, going to be satisfied with butter- cups under his window, and to tolerate lambs frisking in and out of his hall ? No, when the house is finished, something better than buttercups will have to be put round it, and the lambs will have to seek another meadow. Here, then, we are face to face with the task of making a garden. It would be a matter of interest if we could know when, and in what way, the first garden-maker began. Who was it that had the original idea of getting beyond grass and buttercups ? Had he beauty or utility in his mind when he first made an enclosure around his habitation ? Was his first thought of his intellect, or of his stomach ? We can only conjecture what were the beginnings of gardening. The garden may not have come into being either to please the eye or to appease hunger ; it may have grown up in a demand for shade. When the Eastern nomad ceased from wandering, and made himself a home, he would recall THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 45 the long, parching days in the sun-scorched desert, and the dehcious hours of rest and refreshment around the wells. And he would plant palm and fig trees near his dwelling. That was the first step. The person who took it probably did not think of anything further until he remembered a pretty cactus which he had seen when he and his associates had raided a certain caravan, and murdered its members. Perhaps he fetched the cactus, and when, in his old age, his mind went fondly back to the days during which he had stolen and slaughtered, the cactus served the double purpose of pleasing his eye and stimulating his tender reminiscences. However it originated, gardening grew. It had birth far, far back in remote ages. Men of wealth would learn how much more pleasant their habitations became when encircled by trees, fruits, and flowers, than when bare, and gradually they would give their surroundings definite arrangement. In the early days of Eastern civilisation, gardening became a science. Indian, Egyptian, and Persian, each tasted horticultural pleasures. Doubtless schools of gardening existed, and wrangled with the same vigour that they do to-day. The Romans were great gardeners, and if we may accept the younger Pliny as a representative of the tastes of his compatriots, they were pronounced formal- ists, having a great love for architectural features and clipped trees. The topiarius was almost as familiar a figure as the gladiator. The formal garden, with its terraces, was really a natural outcome of the building of villas on the hillsides ; but there is no such legitimate natural reason for the carven trees. The garden of the early Roman was formal, the Italian garden of to-day is formal. 46 THE PERFECT GARDEN When we speak of Elizabethan gardens we have in mind gardens with straight walks, long, stiff alleys, and dense, trim hedges. They came into being in conse- quence of the liking which Henry VIII. had for the handiwork of the Italian gardeners. The formal system was further clamped down on a country which was not naturally fitted to it by the influence of the grandiose Le Notre, and later by the chain of events which brought William and Mary to the throne of Britain. For the Dutch garden was, and is, formal, topiary forming a great feature of it. The modern English garden is informal, and for the time, at all events, the influence of the Italian school is almost a negligible quantity. Formal and Natural Gardens It is not necessary that the person who seeks to turn the wild into a garden should immerse himself very deeply in the arguments of the various schools. He can cer- tainly make himself a beautiful and productive garden without knowing anything whatever about them. After all, what is ornamental gardening but the provision of certain pleasing pictures around a dwelling ? If a person encloses a piece of ground with a wall or fence, screens his boundary with shrubs, fronts the shrubs with a spacious border filled with selected plants, carries a lawn from the edge of the border as near to his front door as the provision for a carriage drive and for a border of plants under the walls will permit, he has the nucleus of a pretty garden. In reality, the configuration of the ground partly dictates the style of a garden. Should the owner put his house on a steep hillside he will have to get his levels for it by cutting out at the back and building fc3 r. ai o ^ > Pi o < o ei i-hU THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 47 up in front, and then he makes a terrace or a series of terraces. So far there is formaHty. There is no need to have cHpped trees and statuary, but terracing of some kind is a plain necessity. In such cases as these the first point which has to be settled is where the architect is to end and the gardener to begin. The former may contend, with some amount of reason, that the terracing comes within his scope, and if his case is granted he may not be satisfied with providing a level space for vehicles in front of the door, but design a series of terraces, one below the other, connected by flights of steps. And these terraces must have copings, relieved at different points. So vases, and even statuary, creep in. When things have got to this point the garden is naturally (to use an apparently paradoxical phrase) becoming a formal one, because, so far as its most prominent part is concerned, it has become based on stiff lines. But still the clipped trees can be fought against ; still the high box edgings, the dense masses of shorn yews and trimmed ilexes ; and the lines of bedding plants, can be resisted. A broad border can be formed beneath each terrace wall, and this can be filled with groups of beautiful plants, arranged in careful colour schemes, and with climbers for covering the face of the wall. Arches can be put at the ends of the walks, and covered with roses, clematises, and other plants. When a person builds on a steep hillside it may be fairly assumed that the garden is not first in his thoughts. He is building for the sake of a view, or for a strong, bracing air. He can make a garden, but he cannot work with the same freedom and economy that he can on level or undulating ground. He is con- stantly under restraint. He may, too, have difficulties 48 THE PERFECT GARDEN with water. These facts should be remembered by the garden lover who is in the position of wanting to build a house. When he chooses a piece of level or undu- lating ground for his site he is not cramped in the same way. The need for terraces disappears, and the architect is restricted to his legitimate sphere — the build- ings. The gardener can begin under the very walls. Walls, Fences, and Hedges What is the wild? Is it a plain meadow? Is it a heath? Is it woodland? In any case it will have to be enclosed, and so the first consideration may be the boundaries. It is not economical to fly first to brick or stone. Occasionally a large place is seen entirely surrounded by a high brick wall, but the cost is enor- mous. More commonly, wooden or wire fences, or hedges, form the outer boundary, and only the kitchen garden is enclosed with brickwork. It may be desirable to enclose a small place entirely with brick walls, and the cost, making the allowances for fluctuations due to distance of carting, nature of ground, and varying rates of pay for labourers, may be calculated at about ^^400 for a single acre, j;^6oo for two acres, and ;^8oo for four acres. This is allowing for a wall with three- feet foundations, six feet high, nine inches (the minimum) thick, and with fourteen-inch pillars at every ten feet. Stone will be cheaper than bricks in some districts, but dearer in most. As an alternative to brick or stone walls, there are wooden fences. Close oak park fencing is the best, as it is extremely durable, but the cost of enclosing an acre with it would hardly be less than ;^ioo. Two acres would cost half as much again, and four acres THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 49 double. Open "spar" or "pale" fencing is used a great deal, as it only costs about half as much as a close oak fence. In districts where larch is abundant it may cost even less. There is still another alternative, and that is a gal- vanised wire fence, with metal or oak uprights. It is cheaper even than a spar fence, but not much, because it will have to be supplemented by wire netting to keep out sheep. Further, it should have a top strand of barbed wire, as cattle are very fond of scraping their horns in it, and pulling it to pieces. Hedges are the cheapest form of boundary, and the person who has to study economy naturally turns to them. He must remember, however, that even in favourable circumstances, that is, in good soil, and when properly treated, it is three years before new hedges are strong enough to stop heavy stock. A young hedge ought to be protected from sheep and cattle by hurdles until it is four feet high, and well bushed from the base upward. Four feet, or even six, of soft twigs on a loose base will not repel a bullock. The hedge has to be pruned hard back when first planted, and again a second year in order to get the dense, firm bottom which is so necessary. Quick or whitethorn is the most in request, and plants which have been once shifted in the nursery will cost about seven shillings and sixpence per 100. Assuming that a single row were planted, the plants nine inches apart, the cost in plants would be about four guineas per acre. It is a common and good plan to plant a double row, and this has every advantage except that it increases the cost in plants. Oval-leaved privet is used a great deal for garden hedges, partly because of its density, and partly because D 50 THE PERFECT GARDEN it is evergreen, but it is not so suitable for boundary hedges, on account of the partiality which sheep have for it. Yew is objectionable because it is poisonous to stock, and a horse cannot be safely turned out into a field where there is a yew hedge. Laurels, myrobalan (myrobella), plum, holly, and hornbeam are other popular hedge plants. They have their merits, but none of them excels quick. Planning Gardens Our ground, then, is in the way for being enclosed, and the next thing to consider is laying it out. House and garden must be considered in association. The former should not be close to the road, or it will receive much dust; on the other hand, if put far back the materials for building must be carted farther, thus adding to the cost, and there will be a greater expendi- ture on the carriage drive. Each person must strike his own balance amid these conflicting considerations. He will doubtless arrange for his house to face south, for the sake of cheerfulness and warmth ; and, if there is any choice of elevations, place it on a slight acclivity, with the object of avoiding damp and frost, and of facilitating the outflow of sewage. Except in the case of very large places, it is desirable that the garden should begin quite at the entrance gates. First may come a belt of trees and shrubs to hide the road, then, skirting the drive, a broad band— not a mere strip— of turf, which may be broken, if desired, with clumps of bamboo or pampas grass. Beyond the band of turf, and following the outline of the drive almost to the house door, there may be a pergola, clad with roses and other climbers, and with a broad border at the front filled with groups of selected hardy flowers. THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 51 The widening of the drive at the front of the house will permit of the turning of vehicles, and beyond, opposite the principal windows, may be the lawn, which should be backed with flowers and shrubs, either in a con- tinuous sweep of border outside, or in a series of large beds within the margins. A road or path may branch off from the main drive to the kitchen and stables, and this may be screened with shrubs. The flower garden may be continued at the back if space and means permit. A small meadow is, however, very pleasant and useful, and costs much less in upkeep than garden ground of the same area. Or an orchard may be planted, with a kitchen garden, and possibly glass houses, beside or beyond it. In view of the immense diversity in such important matters as site, taste, area, and surroundings, it is diffi- cult to do more than generalise, but the plans given in this work may offer suggestions which, in conjunction with the hints here given, may assist beginners in the art of garden-making. Let us note a few things which should be provided, and a few which should be avoided. We should provide— {\) Abundance of turf; (2) suffi- cient trees and shrubs to screen walls, fences, and any ugly objects ; (3) broad borders for good hardy flowers ; (4) pillars, pergolas, and arches to give an air of grace and informality ; (5) a collection of fruit-trees ; (6) a kitchen garden. We should avoid — (i) Cutting down trees except under absolute necessity and after careful deliberation ; (2) shifting great bulks of earth if by any means avoid- able ; (3) setting up gaunt, unscreened fences or trellis work ; (4) creating any artificial features ; (5) making too much garden for the available labour to cope with ; (6) plunging heedlessly into expensive rock-gardens 52 THE PERFECT GARDEN where the configuration of the ground does not invite them ; (7) building ranges of glass houses without counting the cost of skilled labour and heating ; (8) specialising in costly novelties before becoming properly acquainted with plants. Turf We may place two facts before ourselves at the outset in connection with turf : the first, that in nine cases out of ten a meadow will work down into a good lawn ; the second, that decayed turves and underspit make good soil. The former is of great importance when a garden is being made out of pasture land, because it tells us that instead of taking up all the turf, and then starting to make the garden out of bare land, we ought to peg out our paths and borders at the outset, merely taking up turf where it is absolutely necessary to make room for gravel and cultivated crops. This is a cardinal principle covering great considera- tions of economical working. There may be cases in which pasture is so coarse or foul that it is impossible to make green sward of it by mowing and rolling, but they are few. In the great majority excellent lawns may be made out of meadow grass. Cutting and rolling curb the coarse grasses, and give the finer ones, hitherto domineered over by their big brothers, a chance of growing, and the use of a lad or a village woman to spud out the worst of the weeds with an old knife further helps matters. There are some to whom the sight of a daisy or buttercup is abhorrent, and who must have a close, even sward of the finest grasses, unbroken by a flower of any kind. Such must make their lawns by seeding. They will have to take up the turf, cart it away, dig and manure the soil, cleanse it, THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 53 reduce it to a fine tilth, make it firm, sow about one hundredweight of seed per acre in April, protect from birds, scythe the young grass lightly, roll, and finally fall into the routine of mowing, which will need doing weekly until the end of October. Should it be a case of dealing with arable instead of pasture land, seed-sowing to make lawns presents stronger claims, but even then turfing gives a lawn quicker, and if the imported turves are fairly free from weeds, and are put down on level, firm land in Autumn, Winter (but not during frost), or early Spring, and beaten well, a good lawn is secured in a few weeks. Even when seed is used it is helpful to form the edges with turves. When turf is lifted to form borders it should be cut into strips about a foot wide and a yard long, rolled up, placed straight into a cart or barrow, and taken away at once to the place where it is to be relaid or stacked, as this saves repeated handlings. If it is to form potting soil it may be unrolled, and spread flat, grass side down- wards, in layers. At the end of a year it will be ready for use. Making Borders, and Ground-work Generally Whether the " wild " be pasture or arable land we may apply certain principles to those parts of it which we intend to plant with trees, shrubs, fruit, vegetables, or flowering plants. In the case of the pasture, we may remove the turf first, as we have already seen, and store it for potting soil if a great many plants are to be grown in pots. But if we consider the borders and beds first we shall not take the turf away ; we shall chop it up and turn it in. It is often said that professional gardeners are 54 THE PERFECT GARDEN enslaved by bedding plants, and have no liking for hardy flowers. A typical gardener will grow anything, and glory in it, so long as he has a hand in everything that goes on. Reader, do you employ a gardener ? If so, give him the opportunity of interesting himself in your herbaceous borders from the first, and see what happens. If you make your own borders without consulting with him he may go off to his geraniums in dudgeon. The writer does not believe that professional gar- deners as a class dislike hardy plants. A few of the old school may, but. the bulk of modern men do not. A gardener loves to see things of which he has the handling grow and thrive. He may have a special partiality for one particular plant, such as the chry- santhemum, and that partiality may have to be curbed if it should threaten to go too far ; but, broadly speaking, he will like anything which responds to his treatment. The trouble over gardeners and herbaceous borders is that people think that the men do not like them ; and are convinced, without proof, that the gardener has not sufficient taste and skill for this class of work. Almost any gardener can be led to take an interest in herbaceous plants, and it is well worth while to guide him in that direction, because he will probably have cultural knowledge, especially about managing soils, which will be very helpful. It should not be a case of master versus gardener, but of master and gardener. A working union should be brought about by tact and good feeling. In the unlikely event of the gardener being unresponsive, and even grumpy, get rid of him, and try another. There are different types of gardener, just as there are different types of employer. A har- monious association is so valuable that it is worth making an effort for. THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 55 It is in the spade work that the gardener will be most helpful at the outset. Let him interest himself in this, and he will be quite cheerful. When it comes to the actual planting he may be allowed to put the things in, under tactful guidance, and the fact that the actual colour-grouping is not his, but yours, may never come home to him. The writer has known a gardener take ineffable delight and pride in a beautiful colour-border which, in the artistic sense, was not his at all. That fact never occurred to him, and nobody ever troubled to tell him. He read a learned "paper" about it at his gardeners' society meeting, and got more than a local reputation as a hardy plantsman and artistic flower-gardener. This worthy fellow has a mistress who studies human nature as well as flowers. Their relationship is thoroughly harmonious, and their joint efforts are splendidly successful. Gardener or no gardener, the beds, borders, and shrubberies should have the best of spade culture and manure before a single plant is put in them. You cannot build up a beautiful garden by scratching about with a sixpenny rake, and peppering from a tin of Springup's Floral Rejuvenator. As well try to nourish a boys' school on wafers and " squiff." Break up the soil a full eighteen inches deep, and work in, nearly a foot below the surface, the richest, most unctuous yard manure available, not less than two heaped barrow- loads to every square rod — double that quantity if the soil is very light. It is a good plan to tackle the wild in Autumn, because there will be plenty of time to do the work well, and have all ready to plant by the Spring. Most shrubs and trees, including fruit and roses, are best planted in April. The lighter the soil the earlier in 56 THE PERFECT GARDEN the Autumn it should be worked. Clay soil must be handled with judgment. It often goes steely under the influence of drying winds, and will not crumble until rain has softened it. Wait for the right moment, and seize it promptly. Stiff soil may need drainage. Should water stand within two feet of the surface in winter (and this can easily be tested by making holes two feet deep, and leaving them covered for a week or two in wet weather), the land ought to be drained. The gardener, or a person with local knowledge, will be able to advise as to this. The pipes should be laid in trenches eighteen feet apart, and two and a half deep, and should lead to a main drain, which will carry the water to lower ground, where a pool for water lilies may be formed. The cost of draining stiff soil may be about ;^io per acre. Deep working of soil will cost from eightpence to a shilling a square rod, the amount varying according as the soil is light or heavy, and according to the prevailing wage rates. Roads and Paths The making of roads and paths is one of the most serious items in the reclamation of the wild, and must be tackled in a thoroughly practical spirit. It is only in very small places that paths suffice ; in the great majority a drive is required. The narrowest width allowed for this should be nine feet, and the smallest area for turning vehicles eighteen. In the case of a long drive, where two vehicles may have to pass each other, the width should be at least sixteen feet. By multiplying the length by the width we can get the total area of the drive in square yards. To arrive at THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 57 an approximate idea of the cost, which it is very desirable to have, we must decide on the material. Five inches of broken " rock " (rag or other stone), three inches of clinkers, two inches of flint, and two inches of gravel will carry all ordinary traffic if thoroughly compressed by a heavy roller. The price of the materials will vary with the district, and more particularly with the distance of cartage. The total cost, inclusive of removing the earth to make the bed of the drive, material, and rolling, will hardly be less than four shillings per square yard. The soil removed may be shifted at once to a position near which it is intended to make a mound or rockery, and it will then be out of the way for the time being, and ready for use when wanted. There is often a good deal of careless earth-dumping, with the result that it has to be shifted twice. If there is chalk available, removed from the footings of the new house, it may be used instead of rock, and the cost will be reduced by a shilling a square yard. Although drives and paths surfaced with gravel are the best, generally speaking, they are not suitable for gardens with steep slopes, owing to the fact that the gravel gets washed out during heavy rain. In such places the main drive had better be of metal, and the paths of cinders, shingle, tar, concrete, or asphalt. It is not necessary to have so great a depth of material for paths as for roads. Eight inches for main and six inches for by-paths will suffice. Whether roads or paths are being made the outer edges must be on the same level, and to insure accu- racy it is well to drive in a line of short stakes along each edge the whole length, and then place a builder's 58 THE PERFECT GARDEN "straight-edge" across each pair from one side to the other, tapping the pegs down until they are level. The material can then be filled in, and if evenly rolled the road is sure to be on the same level each side. The path may rise a little from the sides to the centre, in order to insure water flowing off. Higher inner pegs may be driven in to get the level for the crown of the path. In order to provide drainage it is well to lay a length of two-inch drain pipes under the ballast along each edge, and set perpendicular pipes, reaching to the surface and there covered with gratings, upon them at every few yards, in order to carry the water to them. The path drain may have an outlet into a pool the same as the land drains. Gravel paths tend to become weedy, but can be kept clean if they are watered after a shower in spring with one of the weed killers which florists, seedsmen, and chemists sell. Rolling and light sweep- ings will help to keep the surface even and clean. Asphalt paths are not weedy, but they do not look so well as gravel, and cost about twice as much. Good asphalt can be made by mixing two parts of sand and one of cinders, both dry, hollowing out the centre of the heap, and pouring in enough tar to cause the whole mass to work up into a mortar. This should be spread on the ballast to a depth of three inches, raked level, beaten, sprinkled with coarse sand, and then rolled. Grass paths should be used as much as possible in the flower-garden. The disadvantage of their being damp during long spells of wet weather is balanced by the superior effects of flowers on a soil of turf. THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 59 Edgings The need for edgings arises from the fact that if the soil was cultivated right to the edge of a walk, particles would be incessantly crumbling over, and making it dirty. To prevent this there has to be some- thing between the path and the soil, such as turf, tiles, or box. A band of turf is excellent, because it shows off both path and border. It should be really a band, and a broad one at that ; a mere strip is troublesome to mow and roll. The width should not be less than eighteen inches, and double that will be still better. The edges, or "verge," can be kept even and smooth by the use of a pair of long shears. Unless this trim- ming is practised regularly the grass soon grows on to the walk. If the upkeep of, and space occupied by, grass edgings are objected to, and a "dead" edging is preferred, it may be found in "rope-twist" tiles. Care must be taken to get a hard, level base for them, and to set them firmly in a straight line, otherwise they will always be untidy. It is not a bad plan to run in a little cement to form a bed for them, as it costs very little, and insures evenness. The metallic appear- ance of the tiles can be reduced by setting a line of thrift, London pride, pinks, or violas behind them. ROCKWORK This is an age of rockeries, and a modern flower- garden without a rockery would seem incomplete. Rock-gardening is full of interest and charm, but it is not flower-gardening in the fullest sense, much less landscape-gardening. A rockery should not be con- 6o THE PERFECT GARDEN sidered as composing a garden, but merely as making an attractive feature of it, like a lily pool, or a rosery. A person may have a very respectable knowledge of Alpine plants, and yet be totally ignorant of flower- gardening. Inexactitude rides rampant in gardening, and there is an appalling confusion of thought in connection with it. Flower-gardening, as we shall see when we come to study it more intimately in later chapters, is the science of producing beautiful effects — of refining and adorning nature. When we take breadths of the earth's surface, make lawns, form beds, fill borders, plant shrubberies, and establish pergolas and water- gardens, we are practising flower-gardening. Rock- gardening is entirely subordinate and sectional. In a sense it is specialistic, because a rockery does not generally come within the decorative scheme of a garden, and may even militate against it. It is desirable to have a clear sense of the situation before plunging extensively into rockwork. There cannot be a doubt that many flower-lovers, who would find deep enjoyment, and gratify their artistic instincts, in making beautiful combinations of flowers, take up rock-gardening as though it were flower-gardening proper, and are disappointed. In proportion to its area the rockery is much the most expensive item in the garden, and when it is complete the garden proper still remains to be made. The fact is, there is an unfortunate transposition, due to mental con- fusion". Instead of dealing first with the really great consideration — the making of the garden, funds are exhausted on something which, interesting though it may be, remains only an item. It is as though a woman made an expensive cosy corner in a drawing- THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 6i room before she had considered a scheme for papering the walls, panelling, carpeting, and furnishing. A complete rockery has three main components — soil, stones, and plants. It is because one at least of these comes into view in the first operations of reclaiming the wild that a preliminary reference is made to rock-gardens in this chapter, instead of being left entirely to the flower-garden section. Soil is always being set free when a house is being built and roads are being formed. It comes from the house-footings, and likewise from the beds of the walks. We may fairly set it down as the most important item of our rock trinity, because without it neither rocks nor plants would be of much value. The points to re- member are : (i) that no soil should be shifted until a place has been found for it to go to ; (2) that no soil should be carted into the place from outside sources until it has been thoroughly established that the existing material is unsuitable. The underspit from turf is often very good soil for rock plants, and, if in any way suitable, it should be shifted at once from its bed to the place where the rockery is to be, and there laid in the most convenient form for use. A large body of soil is the brain of a rock-garden. There is another reason why rockwork may be considered thus early, and it is that a necessity may arise for stones to be brought in for facing a bank, or serve some other purpose, before the garden is begun. If a contract could be made, not only for these stones, but also for what are required to form the rockery, at the same time, it is likely that more favourable terms could be got. This consideration is important, because rocks are often a very costly item in a garden. The best Derbyshire or Yorkshire stone 62 THE PERFECT GARDEN will perhaps cost a guinea a ton, the exact sum de- pending on the distance that it has to be conveyed, and twenty tons will not go far in a large rockery. Rag is a softer stone, and by no means so good, either in appearance or durability ; but if quarried locally circumstances may compel its purchase, as the price, delivered, may come down as low as five or six shillings a ton. Whatever kind may be used, common sense dictates that if early attention to the matter of purchase secures better terms, and if soil and rock can be brought together with the least possible waste of time and effort by the exercise of a little forethought, those requirements should be forthcoming. Certainly the rockery question is more than half solved when a capacious mound of good soil, and sufficient stones to form a liberal supply of deep "pockets" on all aspects, are provided. If there is any doubt of the fertility of the soil, a liberal dressing of manure should be worked in while the mound is being formed, and there will then be plenty of time for it to decay before planting time comes. Tools The provision of an adequate supply of good tools is desirable for two important reasons : (i) it facilitates the performance of the various operations ; (2) it de- prives incompetent men of a very handy excuse, and leads to their defects being exposed. A certain number of tools and appliances are essential to gardening, and it is important that they be of a particular character, fitted for the class of work which they have to do. There are not wanting THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 63 people whose total outfit consists of a six-toothed rake, a trowel, and an old table-knife. These can hardly be described as adequate. They certainly will not make large herbaceous borders, build rockeries, and grow fruit trees. It may be well to glance at some of the most useful tools, and decide what are indispensable. At least one good spade is needed, and if more than one worker is employed there should be a spade for each. It will cost from three shillings and sixpence •to five shillings. A shovel should be added if much earth has to be shifted, as it is a much better tool for taking up loose soil than a spade. A strong steel fork, with five prongs eleven inches long, is valuable. It is much more suitable for digging some classes of soil than a spade, and is useful for other purposes. It will cost about the same as the spade. A short hand-fork with flat prongs is useful for shifting young plants, and is preferred by many to a trowel. Pruning tools may consist of two knives, a large pruner with curved blade and handle, each about three and a half inches long, and a small, flat-handled budder ; a pair of secateurs, costing about half a crown ; and a bill-hook for hedge trimming. The knives will cost about three shillings each. A stout bill-hook will be useful for sharpening stakes. A line and reel will be useful in the kitchen garden, as by setting the line straight rows of plants can be put in without fear of their wandering off into curves. But it can be dispensed with, if it is necessary to reduce the cost of equipment to the utmost possible extent, and a long piece of cord on two sharpened stumps substituted. Rakes and hoes are a small item, as they are very cheap. An eight- and a ten-teeth rake, and a Dutch 64 THE PERFECT GARDEN and a swan-neck draw hoe, all mounted on ash handles, will be serviceable. A wheelbarrow will be wanted, and a medium-sized one, whether of wood or metal, may be expected to cost about a guinea. A swinging water-barrow mounted on broad wheels is almost as useful as a wheelbarrow, saving a great deal of time in conveying water. But it is less necessary if a hose and reel are provided. Turf tools are the most costly. In the first place there is the mower to consider. The best size for a single person to use is a ten-inch, and one of the best finish will cost three pounds or a little more. But it is possible to get one of a plainer type for a third of that sum. One must consider mowers as one considers cycles. If one would have a bicycle of high grade, with change-speed gearing, chain case, and other refinements, one must be prepared to pay more for it than for a plain machine. A scythe is not indispensable, but it is desir- able, especially for use on young seed lawns. An edging iron is good for cutting turf edges, and a pair of edging shears for trimming verges. Where turf is being shifted a lifter and a beater are needed, the former to pass under the turf and separate it from the soil ; the latter (which consists of a heavy, flat piece of wood mounted on a strong diagonal handle) to compress the turf when relaid. A roller will be very helpful in the management of the turf; indeed, it can hardly be dispensed with, and it will serve also for the paths. One twenty-two inches wide is a good size for one man. Of other things there are hedge shears, dibbers for setting out young plants, water cans, a syringe, plant stakes, tying material, labels, and fish netting for pro- tecting seedlings. This is a somewhat formidable list, but it is not o THE CONQUEST OF THE WILD 65 easy to see how it can be greatly reduced, except for very small gardens. We certainly cannot get the upper- hand of the wild, and garden with ease and satisfaction, unless we are properly equipped. There should be a dry store for tools, with grease or oily waste at hand for cleaning them when they are put away. They will then last a long time, and always be in the best condi- tion for use when wanted. PART II THE FLOWER GARDEN CHAPTER I COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS Simplicity, which has always been a dominant factor in Art, should be the soul of the garden. The revolt against formalism, which did so much to rescue British flower-gardening from the feverish clutch of the bedding system, has proceeded to inordinate lengths. Flower lovers are beginning to specialise in hardy plants, just as old-time gardeners did in gera- niums. We are taught that we must plant in immense quantities. We are trained to associate informal or " natural " gardening with expensive rockeries. All this is regrettable, because it makes flower-gardening more complex and costly. The only system of flower-gardening that can do national good (and no system that fails to do this has any permanent value) is one that shall cover the country with beautiful gardens that are well within the scope of those who own them — gardens which afford moral and mental training and intellectual pleasure, while causing no embarrassment on the score of cost and maintenance. The leading advocates of "natural" flower-garden- ing have exercised a considerable influence for good, but they have been carried beyond their original objective by the unbridled enthusiasm of their sup- porters. It is the fate of many a worthy cause, that 69 70 THE PERFECT GARDEN the glow of success leads to an exhilaration which impairs the judgment and obscures the vision of its leaders. Their outlook becomes narrowed. Partisan- ship develops. Simplicity is lost. It would be a lamentable anti-climax if the informal system, passing out of the control of the hands that set it in motion, developed such costliness and com- plexity that the bulk of flower-gardeners went back to bedding out in despair. The danger of this may not be apparent, but it exists, and it will grow unless an effort be made to check it. The really great writer is distinguished by simplicity of language. He does not secure his effects by literary thaumaturgy. He cultivates a clear, yet dignified, style. His sentences are crisp and concise. They blend with the smoothness of accurate mechanism. Gardening has much in common with literature, and should be guided by the same principles. Our national literature has been built up on the simple lines adopted by the great writers who compiled the Bible. It is the world's misfortune that the earth has been so much in demand for battlefields that there has been little to spare for gardens, and so we lack an inheritance of garden wisdom as priceless as that of literature. If the great spirits of the past had studied the art of making gardens as thoroughly as they did that of making books, we should not be in the welter of extravagances and bana- lities that we are to-day. Flower-gardening must take simplicity for its guiding principle, or, whether it be "formal" or "informal," it will fail. There should never be any question of a conflict of schools. No school of astronomy can alter the rules of the universe, although it may legitimately disagree over the canals of Mars. To suppose that it ^ COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 71 is impossible to secure effects in gardening without re- course to violence, is equivalent to saying that language is incapable of expressing a meaning without resort to hyperbole or profanity. A beautiful garden should have all the elements which make classics — clearness of thought, honesty of purpose, and grace of diction. The youthful writer revels in redundancy. With Roget's Thesaurus beside him he embellishes his style with an extensive vocabulary. One adjective is never employed where two can be dragged in. Flower- gardening suffers from the same elaboration. It is difficult for those who are saturated with the affecta- tions and extravagances of modern garden literature, to realise how much of pure beauty is possible in a garden that is built up of a few simple features — an outer skirting of shrub and herbaceous border, a rose garden, a lawn, a lily pool. There is no need for complexity, still less for trickery. If the mind demands the illusion of space where space does not really exist, the art of the landscape gardener can create it with twists, and turns, and curves, and undulations of sur- face. But why not truth ? With care in the selection and disposition of plants a scene can be created, even in the most confined area, so full of interest and beauty that there is no wish for, or thought of, illusory visions. Whatever is false or meretricious becomes insufferable. In gardening, space and quantity alone will no more convey pleasure than tautology in literature. A cultured mind finds a gratification in a beautiful piece of poetry that never fails. However brief the passage may be it gives satisfaction. A first reading does not exhaust its charms, it is read again and again. And the smallest corner of flower-garden, provided it be well done, will please in the same way. If the plants are as well chosen 72 THE PERFECT GARDEN as the words of the good writer, if they are grouped as carefully as his sentences, the result will be harmonious and pleasing. There is an undoubted art in laying out areas of ground with trees, shrubs, and plants in such a way as to give imposing pictures, but that is not the only form of gardening. There is equal art in decorating a half- or quarter-acre plot. A miniature may be as artistic as a full canvas. The implication that anything in the way of growing and arranging plants is unworthy of the title of gardening unless it is done on a huge scale is presumptuous. Every educated person should culti- vate flowers, just as every cottager cultivates vegetables. It ought never to be said that a place is too small for flower-gardening. The first study in flower-gardening should be Colour — not System, not Design, but Colour. System and Design separate gardeners. Colour unites them. The study of Colour is equally the privilege of the owners of small and of large gardens. In it they meet on common ground. The same effects can be secured in gardens of varied area. By grouping plants, either on a large or small scale, in such a way that tfieir hues blend, we get beautiful effects, whether the plants be represented by half-dozens or by hundreds. Flower-grouping for colour is almost a new study in gardens, and it is fraught with great possibilities. It may be allied with specialism, if the flower lover have sufficient strength of character to rise above the temptation of becoming a slave to a chosen plant. Spring flower-grouping, for instance, can be conducted with tulips, especially if the tall, late flowering varieties be chosen ; the early dwarf Dutch sorts have to be used with great care, or they become merely a smear. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS ^^ The ordinary " mixed border " of herbaceous flowers is often nothing but a higgledy-piggledy tumble of plants. The sole idea seems to be to cram in as many kinds as possible. If the subject of arrange- ment is discussed, it is generally in respect to height. "Arrange dwarf plants at the front, medium in the centre, and tall at the back," says the first adviser. " Bring some of your taller plants towards the centre, so as to avoid uniform, stiff tiers," says the second. In passing, the writer may mention that as between these two views he decides for the second, but he thinks all the time that the point is entirely subordinate to that of Colour. It is possible to mar a border by mis- takes in relation to height, but it is impossible to spoil it entirely if the colour scheme is correct. On the other hand, no care in arranging a border for height can save it if the colour scheme is wrong. When Colour assumes its proper status in relation to what are called "mixed borders," it is soon perceived that the "mixed" principle, as generally understood, must disappear. We shall no longer crowd borders with all kinds of plants, but we shall furnish them with a limited number of varieties, the colours and flowering periods of which are carefully considered in relation to each other. This is the flower-gardening of the future. It is guided by definite principles. It may be costly, if the newest varieties are chosen, and if fresh plants have to be purchased every year in order to bring the collec- tion "up to date." On the other hand, it will be in- expensive if standard sorts of good quality are chosen, and home propagation is practised. There will be bloom at all periods, and at the same time the quality of the flowers will be of a special character, and of particular interest. Before proceeding to deal with Colour in its 74 THE PERFECT GARDEN seasons, consideration may be given to the question of backgrounds. It is possible to fill large borders and beds both effectively and economically by associating the chosen flowers with selected conifers, such as the swarthy and glaucous pines, tinted retinosporas or cypresses, and dusky yews. It is the modern custom, practised by those who write for wealthy garden lovers, to deride indiscriminately the inexpensive shrubs which are grown in thousands by nurserymen. This folly takes its rise from the narrow view that no plant can be worth growing except for its individual interest. Plants have other uses. We should not choose the Austrian pine for a special isolated position on a lawn, but it has its value none the less. This, likewise the Weymouth pine, Lawson's cypress, retinospora obtusa, the arbor-vitae, thuya dolabrata, the yew, and varieties of the Chinese juniper, make good foils. So, too, do certain non-conifers, such as berberis darwmii (also attractive from its flowers), the silver birch, Japanese maples, Bailey's dogwood {cornus baileyi), the golden- stemmed ash {fraxinus excelsior au7'ea), the bamboos, box, cotoneasters, thorns, euonymuses, tree ivies, laurels, hollies, laurustinus, and veronicas. These plants have beauty of foliage, bark, stem, or leaf, and if the tree-like growers are grown in poor soil they will develop but slowly, and be long before attaining to undue pro- portions. By choosing certain of these shrubs for use as backgrounds, large borders can be filled at much less cost than would be otherwise entailed, and so far from the general effect being marred, it is improved. Some of the dwarf, slow-growing things may be brought fairly forward to form bays, in which selected flowers are planted. A semi-circle of the common yew, en- closing an area planted with groups of tulips, phloxes, Delphinium Beauty oe Langport, white, introduced by Messrs. Kelway cic Sons, and grown by Mr. W. C. Blakeway. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 75 and Michaelmas daisies for Spring, Summer, and Autumn bloom is an illustration of the present point. The stations for the flowers can be specially treated, by deep digging and liberal manuring, to give that vigorous growth and abundant blooming which, in their case, is so desirable. Larch and oak pillars may also be introduced into mixed borders, and they will serve the double purpose of forming backgrounds, and of supporting roses, clema- tises, and other climbers, which will give grace and informality. One plan is to form a group of three unpeeled larch-poles, and plant within a vigorous, spreading rose, such as the Pink Rambler or F^licit6 Perp6tue, and group tall blue perennial larkspurs [delphiniums) outside, in association with Madonna lilies [liliuin candiduiti). A glorious colour effect is thus produced, in which the grey-browns of the larch- bark play an important part. Tree stumps or heavy forks, planted with a selected sprayey rose like Alister Stella Gray, or with ivy, may also be utilised as backgrounds. An ivy-covered stump forms an admirable foil for clumps of rich, lustrous paeonies, which are assuredly among the noblest of border-plants. Viewed from the point of view here suggested, colour-study becomes of commanding interest. Her- baceous borders are homogeneous, and yet varied. Collections of plants are not thrown together indis- criminately, but the various components of the border are chosen, and placed in relation to each other, with the same care as the different parts of a picture. A painter who merely filled a canvas with figures that bore no relationship to each other would stand but a poor chance of gaining a desirable reputation as an 76 THE PERFECT GARDEN artist. With him Composition and Colour go hand in hand. The flower lover, equally with the artist, should choose his materials with judgment, and strive to harmonise them in such a way as to form beautiful pictures. Spring Colour Spring is rich in colour, but not in plants of bold growth ; and while we have abundant material in snowdrops, winter aconites, anemones, crocuses, grape hyacinths, primroses, polyanthuses, irises, and daffo- dils for grass, bank, dell, and woodland, we have none too much to give us the impressive effect that we seek in the border. The purely early flowers are nearly all low growers, and it is not until late April or May that we get taller kinds in anything like quantity. It is not suggested that we should not use low bulbs ; we will certainly take them gratefully, and if we have a few brightly-coloured shrubs among the more sombre occu- pants of the border, such as the golden bell {forsythia suspensa), the star magnolia {magnolia stellata), escallonia macrantha, and deutzias, we shall not be without variety. Early Bulbs. — Snowdrops and winter aconites will begin the display in February, and in sheltered spots the lovely iris reticulata and Kreiage's variety of it will give bloom in February or March. Crocuses will be on their heels, and early daffodils like Henry Irving will be in flower before March is out, unless the weather be very hard. In April star narcissi, hyacinths, dwarf Dutch tulips, primroses, arabises, and aubrietias will be in full bloom. The primroses, arabises, and aubrie- tias will grow as they flower, the clumps expanding steadily throughout May. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS ^^ Leopard's Bane and Tulips. — A valuable flower from mid-April onward is the leopard's bane {doronicum). The species c-aXlQd plantagineum excelsum (Harpur Crewe) has long flower stems, and is superior to the old kind on that account. It is useful, but the great flower of May is the late tulip. This magnificent plant is divided into two sections, one of which is called the Darwin, and the other is variously described as the " late," "cottage," and "May-flowering" section. Inasmuch as the Darwins are late or May-bloomers the terms are not distinctive enough for garden purposes. The Darwins proper are self or one-coloured flowers, akin to what the old florists called "breeders." Some of the "cottage" section are also selfs. It is too much to expect that the majority of flower lovers will ever have a clear idea of the difference between the two classes, any more than they have between violas and pansies, or primroses and polyanthuses ; and for our present purpose it is not necessary that they should. The point is that they should be familiar with a few of the best late tulips, whether these be cottage or Darwin varieties, and know how to use them to the best advantage. In the first place, it is understood that we do not plant single bulbs of a large number of varieties, the names of which have been taken at shows. We must plant separate clumps, varying from six to two dozen in number, according to space and means, of a few chosen varieties, which grow strongly, and have large flowers with rich, clear colours. Herschel, claret col- oured ; Kern, amethyst ; La Candeur, white ; Hecla, reddish maroon ; Minister Tak van Poortvliet, dark red ; Farncombe Sanders, bright red ; Pride of Haarlem, rose (not to be confused with Bride of Haarlem, which 78 THE PERFECT GARDEN is an early dwarf Dutch) ; Sultan, maroon ; Sunset, red and yellow ; Bouton d'Or, orange yellow ; Gesneriana spathulata, scarlet; La Merveille, rose to orange, very sweet ; Mrs. Moon, deep yellow ; and Picotee or Maiden's Blush, white with pink edge, are such varieties. They are noble flowers, and all are cheap enough to plant in fair quantity. For the greater part of May, and during a portion of June, they will give glorious breaks of colour, adding an entirely new feature to gardens. Owing to the thick substance of the petals they do not reflex under sunshine in the same way that the early Dutch sorts do. It is generally thought that light, sandy soil is best for bulbs, including tulips, but these splendid May bloomers never do better than in deep, cool clay. In such land many of the varieties will throw up flower stems upwards of two feet long, crowned with flowers larger than turkey's eggs. They will not need any manure in heavy soil, but in light land it will be wise to give a dressing, preferably of cow manure, which should be dug right in below the level that the bulbs will occupy. A coating of superphosphate, at the rate of a handful to the square yard, may be worked into the surface soil. If desired the bulbs can be lifted after the flowering is over, the bloom stems being removed, but the leaves preserved, and planted in an out-of-the- way nursery bed, thus making room in the border for something else, such as salpiglossis, ostrich plume asters, sweet peas, or (shudder not, plant lovers !) even zonal geraniums. Crown Imperials, — Another tall bulb of much value is the crown imperial, a species of fritillary. The yellow and orange varieties are both effective plants, and the flowers are borne in a graceful, pen- A CLUMP OF DOUBLE WHITE PVRETHRUM, SHOWING HOW EFFECTIVE THIS EASILY CROWN PLANT IS IN THE BORDER. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 79 dulous truss on a long, stout stem. One buys bulbs of these in Autumn, as of tulips and hyacinths, and they are cheap. A solitary plant, if vigorous, makes a very striking object in a border, and a group will yield to few other subjects in beauty and distinc- tiveness. Columbines. — At that late period of the Spring when our thoughts are turning to roses and other Summer flowers the columbine {aquilegid) begins to bloom. It is difficult to leave it out of the border, and if its flower is hardly bold and decided enough to justify its use in colour groups, it is nevertheless beautiful, and the foilage has value. Pyrethrums. — The pyrethrum needs no qualifica- tion. The very early growth of its pretty foliage makes it useful as a ground coverer ; the flowers are large, briUiant, and well thrown up. No small point in favour of the pyrethrum is that it can be shifted at almost any time, even when in bloom. The more the flowers are cut the better the plant blooms, and the flowers are very useful for vases, in spite of the fact that they are a little stiff. There are always both Spring and Summer crops if the flowers are cut freely ; and if a little judg- ment is exercised the border effect need never be lost, however persistent the cutting may be. The varieties Agnes Mary Kelway, rose ; Decoy, scarlet ; Feversham, white ; Melton, crimson ; Othello, violet ; and Princess Beatrice, pink ; the first three single, the rest double, are examples of inexpensive stock sorts which are as good for border work as any of the novelties. The Lyre Flower. — A plant that is practically represented by one species only, and has no long tale of special varieties to its name, is the Lyre Flower or Bleeding Heart, which botanists used to call dielytra^ 8o THE PERFECT GARDEN and now call dicentra, spectabilis. Its long, arching stems, hung with pink eardrops, have a pretty effect. Roots can be bought very cheaply in Autumn, in the same way as Dutch bulbs, and a group has a good effect. Summer Colour PEONIES. — Spring and Summer overlap with some flowers, and among them is the paeony, not second even to the tulip in the vigour of its growth and the splendour of its colouring, and even superior in the warm tints of the young growth in Spring. Given deep, rich soil, and a policy of non-interference, it will form magnificent clumps, single plants spreading to three or four feet across, and bearing a dozen or more huge flowers, highly coloured, and powerfully scented. As with the tulips (and, indeed, all other flowers), the best policy is to select a few stock varieties of established merit and moderate cost. A few answer- ing to these requirements are — Frangois Ortigat, purple; Rose d' Amour, flesh ; the Sultan, maroon ; Captain Lambton, white ; James Kelway, carmine rose ; and Lady Sarah Wilson, blush. The first three belong to the herbaceous section, and the other three to the tree class. Perennial Larkspurs {Delphiniums). — The delphi- nium also links Spring with Summer. A noble and stately plant, its tall spikes of mainly blue flowers have a splendid effect when rising near some dark column, such as the upright of an arch, a pillar, or the side of a gateway. The flowers blend with white Madonna lilies, which are nearly as cheap as crocuses, and may be planted in September in a patch of rather poor soil near the richer bed of the delphiniums. A Delphinium True Blue, intkouuced by AIessks. Kelway & Sons, AND GROWN BY Mr. W. C. BlAKEVVAY. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 8i climbing rose, such as the glorious Carmine Pillar, may be in bloom at the same time as the delphiniums, and a pillar of it in the rear will complete a picture of rare and gracious loveliness. Belladonna, Bleu Cdeste, Dorothy Kelway, Persimmon, Salamander, and the Queen compose a splendid sextet of perennial larkspurs. Roses. — Roses are not generally introduced into the mixed border, yet in addition to the pillars one or two special varieties should be chosen for colour groups. First and foremost for this purpose stands the beautiful, scented, ever-flowering crimson Griiss an Teplitz, a rose with a future as secure for garden decoration as that of Crimson Rambler for arches. With heavily manured soil, and light pruning, it will bear clusters of flowers the whole of the summer, growing ceaselessly, and flowering as it grows. A variety like this is worth a thousand of the dressed fops of the exhibition tent. Phloxes. — The perennial phloxes with their noble spikes, and soft, yet brilliant colours, are indispensable for colour groups, and must be classed among the elect for this purpose. Varieties of different sections bloom from June to October. They do not like a stiff, damp soil, and such land ought to be prepared for them very thoroughly, being well broken up to a depth of eighteen inches, and lightened with liberal applications of coarse sand or road grit. It is not wise to use much manure, but bone flour is safe and good. Manure may be used with advantage in light, loamy soil. A few of the finer sorts are — James Hunter, pink ; L'Aiglon, carmine; Coquelicot, orange scarlet, deeper centre ; L'l^sperance, mauve, white eye ; Le Mahdi, violet; Le Si6cle, salmon rose; Papillon, blue; Ros- F 82 THE PERFECT GARDEN signol, mauve, paler eye ; and Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, white. The phloxes may be grouped with plantain lilies {funkias), which have broad, handsome leafage ; and with the tall graceful bulb variously called galtonia and hyacinthus candicans. Hollyhocks. — Where space permits, hollyhocks can be set at the back. Queen of Whites ; Queen of Yellows; Mrs. Edwards, salmon; and Joshua Clark, carmine; are good varieties of this stately old cottage garden flower. The plant grows luxuriantly in deep, rich soil, but it is not benefited by over manuring, as such treatment conduces to disease. Irises. — The specialist in irises will have his own particular plans for this superb flower, so varied in its range of flowering, height, colour, and cultural re- quirements, but the " orchid of the flower garden " must be pressed into service for border groups. The " Flag " section, which has rhizome roots, not bulbs, will give the best material for this purpose. A splendid example of it is Pallida, a noble plant throwing stems a yard high, and with flowers of a shimmering lilac blue. Madame Chereau, blue and white, which is a variety of the species aphylla, is another grand " Flag." These are early summer bloomers, and are often at their best in June — a point which must be borne in mind if flowers are to be chosen for grouping with them. The day lilies {Jiemerocallis) are suitable, for they, too, are early bloomers. Geraniums. — For front positions in the border the hardy geraniums or crane's-bills are well worth atten- tion. They are economical flowers, for they cost little to stock, and quickly spread into broad masses. They are fond of a cool, clayey soil, and need no manure in such land. .The species sanguineum, crimson; and COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 83 its rose variety, lancastriense, are both very pretty ; so, too, is the purple arnienum. Their one fault is that they are a Httle dumpy, and on this account may be elevated on stone mounds, or relieved by association with the beautiful St, Bernard's and St. Bruno's lilies {anthericums liliago and liliastruni), which have tall, graceful spikes of white flowers. Canterbury Bells. — Those dear old favourites, the Canterbury bells {campanula mediuvi), are among the cheapest and best of border flowers. Blooming for the first time in early summer, they will linger long over their first flowering, and yet give a generous second bloom if the fading blossoms are picked off. Remembering that hundreds of plants can be grown from a sixpenny packet of seed sown about a year before the flowering, it will be readily conceded how precious the Canterbury bells are. Sweet-williams. — There is a special salmon pink variety of sweet-william that flower lovers should make a point of getting, for it comes from seed as readily and cheaply as Canterbury bells, and makes beautiful border clumps. It forms a charming companion for the tall lupinus polyphylluSy which is a cheap and noble plant, both in its blue and white varieties. Poppies will not escape the attention of the flower lover. He can now, if he likes, buy special named varieties of the great scarlet species orientate. He can raise the Shirleys from seed. The writer has a large double, procured from an American seedsman, called shrimp-pink, which bears noble flowers on tall stems, and lasts a long time in bloom. In passing, flower lovers may be advised to try some of the seed specialities of the larger American firms, such as Atlee Burpee, of Philadelphia ; and Child, Floral Park, New York. 84 THE PERFECT GARDEN Some of their swans may be geese, but all are not. The flaming poppies can be provided with a background of goat's rues {galega officinalis and variety alba), which grow and flower freely in the poorest soil, are pretty both in foliage and bloom, last for many weeks, and are cheap. Foxgloves, with their tall, bending stems, will lend informality, and these can be raised from seed with sweet-williams and Canterbury bells. Sweet Peas are glorious features of grouped borders. Stations should be prepared by deep digging and heavy manuring, behind dwarfer plants of earlier growth, such as pyrethrums and paeonies, as the peas will not make much of a figure before mid-June. With proper soil culture, watering and liquid manuring in dry spells, and persistent gathering, the same clumps will be beau- tiful from July to October inclusive. A large, sombre object, such as a pine, yew, or cypress, makes the best backing for a clump of sweet peas, as it throws the colours out into bold relief. It is perhaps best to raise the peas in pots in a frame or greenhouse, and plant them out towards the end of April, placing them six inches apart in a ring a yard across ; but they may be sown out of doors where they are to flower if more convenient. The varieties are developing rapidly, and fresh colours are constantly appearing, but the flower lover will be wise to hold a reserve of standard sorts of proved merit, such as Nora Unwin, white ; King Edward VII., crimson; Queen Alexandra, scarlet; Helen Pierce, veined blue ; Miss Willmott, orange pink ; Countess Spencer, pink ; Lady Grizel Hamilton, pale blue; and Lord Nelson, dark blue — varieties which have distinctive character, and abundance of inherent vigour. Carnations. — The carnation lover will want to in- COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 85 elude groups of his favourite flower for July and August bloom, and may well do so, for few things will be more admired in their season, should all go well with them. Unfortunately, they are attacked by a terrible scourge known as rust, which worries them sadly throughout the Winter and Spring, both out of doors and under glass, but worst in frames and houses. Spraying a solution of liver of sulphur over the plants, one ounce in three gallons of water, may be tried ; if it should not check the disease the affected leaves must be picked off, even if the plants are gradually denuded of nearly all their foliage. So long as there is a healthy central crown left in May the plants will grow and flower. In freshly broken-up pasture land incessant trapping with potato and carrot baits will have to be practised to preserve the plants from destruction by wireworms and leather-jackets. Lady Nina Balfour, soft pink ; Barras, scarlet ; Agnes Sorrel, crimson maroon ; Henry Falk- land, yellow ground ; Hildegarde, white ; Sir R, Waldie Griffith, apricot ; and Daffodil, yellow ; are relatively vigorous and free-blooming varieties. The old clove is poor in bloom compared with these, but not in fragrance. Pinks. — Clumps of pinks for cutting may be dotted along the front of the border, and for this purpose Mrs. Sinkins and Ernest Ladhams are still among the most valuable, although florists have finer-flowered varieties, notably Brackleen and Chantilly. Lilies, Ox-eye Daisies, and Evening Primroses. — Lilies will perhaps not be confined to the beautiful white Madonna, recommended for association with larkspurs. There is boldness of colouring enough in the Turk's cap {martagon), and in chalcedoniaim, pardalinum (the panther lily), tigrinunt (tiger lily), pomponium, and I 86 THE PERFECT GARDEN ruhellum ; and these may be grouped with ox-eye daisies {chrysantheimim maxhnum), or galtonia candicans, and evening primroses {Qittotheras). The \2ir\&\.y fruticosa youngi is about the best yellow evening primrose, although biennis is of bolder growth. Both these and the ox-eye daisies will make magnificent clumps in moist, rich soil. There is no reason, of course, why the golden-rayed lily {atiratuni) should be excluded from any selection of this genus, and if a deep station of fibrous loam and peat can be made for it it will rise to noble proportions. Giganteuni is another tall and stately lily, well worthy of a selected position in the border. Both auratum and giganteum are the better for association with robust, early-growing plants, which afford them shelter in spring. Gladioli rank high among late summer flowers. There is no finer border plant for grouping than the old scarlet species brenchleyensis, which will cost about a halfpenny a corm, and may be bought with Dutch bulbs in autumn for planting then or in spring. It will probably be at its best in August, when it will be one of the most brilliant ornaments of the border. It looks well near ox-eye daisies, or a white phlox, or goat's rue, or any species of spiraea that is in bloom at the same time. Select varieties such as Comman- dant Marchand, Enchantresse, Sanspareil, Grand Rouge, L'Incendie, Formosa, and Marie Th^rese will strengthen the flower lover's affection for gladioli, but he may not be able to plant them so largely as brenchleyensis, on account of the higher price. The plants will thrive in clayey as well as in loamy soils, but they are not so well suited by chalk. It is well to lift, dry, and store the corms for the winter, doing this in October, and replanting in April. LlLIUM GIGANTKUM IN Mr. A. C. LENEY's GARDEN, Saltwood, Hythe. COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 87 MONTBRETIAS. — One of the brightest and cheapest of flowers is the Montbretia, which costs little to stock, and spreads rapidly into thick clumps crowned with long, slender stems of orange, yellow, or red flowers. It is both bright and graceful. It does well on banks in shade, and also in cool spots near water. Cannas are even more brilliant, but need more cultivation, requiring to be lifted and stored for the winter, and planted in rich soil in May. But they are worth any trouble, because in addition to their beautiful flowers they have very handsome leaves, which soften the brilliance of the glowing blossoms, Pentstemons have been greatly improved by the Scottish florists, and they are now almost as valuable as anything we have for low groups. They have much of the grace of gladioli, with flowers like giant fox- gloves — one might almost say like gloxinias. The colours are very brilliant. Rose and carmine flowers with white throats are the best for collective effect. The plants may be struck from cuttings in autumn in the same way as bedding calceolarias, and are a thousand times more valuable. A cheap way of getting stock is to sow seeds in a frame or greenhouse in February, prick the seedlings off into other boxes, harden off, and plant out. The best of the varieties can be marked for pro- pagation by cuttings, which will keep them true to colour. If the plants flower so profusely and so late that there seems to be no likelihood of getting young growing shoots for cuttings, a few of the plants had better be deprived of their flowers, and given a dressing of rich soil, in order to encourage growth. Snapdragons [antirrhimwts) of the best Scottish strains are most beautiful and valuable. In addition to profuse blooming and rich colours they possess 88 THE PERFECT GARDEN the merit of growing and flowering continuously for several months, even in poor, shallow soils ; and in dry seasons they will be in beauty for a long period. Plants raised from seed in winter, like pentstemons, will probably begin to flower in July, and in all likeli- hood will bloom continuously until December. In cool, moist soils, in mild districts, they will give flowers most of the winter. Fine self varieties, with crimson, rose, pink, salmon, yellow, and white flowers, will often come from mixed seed, and may be perpetuated by means of cuttings. The Flame or Torch Flower {Kniphofia or tritoma) cannot be dispensed with in colour grouping for late summer and early autumn effects. Its burning lampads of orange, scarlet, yellow, and coral, glow with ardent fire among the thinning ranks of the border infantry. The typical ** red-hot poker " is the species aloides {uvarid) ; there are several handsome varieties of it. Corallina superba is excellent too. Half-a-dozen healthy, well-flowered flame flowers look very fine in contiguity to a clump of pampas grass, but they are also very effective when rising near goat's rues, Michaelmas daisies, chrysanthemums, and other late flowers. The plant is propagated by division in spring. Sunflowers and Golden Rod. — Tall, yellow - flowered plants that are serviceable in late summer are the sunflowers {heltanthus), and the golden rod isolidago). The former are best represented, perhaps, by the species decapetalus, multiflorus (Soleil d'Or is a good variety of this), and rigidus, of which the variety Miss Mellish may be chosen in preference to the type. All these form columns of glowing colour. The golden rod is slighter and softer, but infinitely pleasing withal. "mi J w o COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 89 having a tender, shy droop of its yellow-crested head that is most appealing. Winter Cherries. — The fine species of winter cherry called physalis franchetiy with its large, triangular pods of vivid orange, is a fine colour plant that can be raised easily and cheaply from seed in spring. Lobelias. — The tall perennial lobelias, such as cardinalis and fulgens, and their different varieties, must not be overlooked. These grow about two feet high, and are very bright when several plants are put near together, and grown in rich, moist soil. Autumn Colour Autumn is naturally rich in leaf colour, and this can be supplemented by border warmth of bloom. It is true that the number of plants is limited, but including, as they do, Michaelmas daisies, dahlias, and chrysanthemums, they are full of the highest possibilities. Unless severe early frosts come, dahlias will last through October, and Michaelmas daisies and chrysanthemums will give flowers until December. Another very useful flower is the Japanese anemone {anemone japonicd), of which there are many good varieties. The false Michaelmas daisy {boltonia asteroides) is also valuable. Dahlias need to be chosen with great care, because many of the beautiful sorts which are seen at the shows have no garden value, on account of their short, weak flower stems. It is particularly necessary to exercise caution with the cactus varieties, which are apt to hide their flowers in their leaves. The paeony-flowered section is good for bold effects, although the individual flowers are coarse. The pompon or bouquet section is also excellent ; the varieties are compact in growth. 90 THE PERFECT GARDEN and display their flowers well. Neither the show and fancy, nor single sections, are so good for general effect, although a few varieties have merit. Trenched, manured soil, and abundance of moisture, suit dahlias. If cuttings are struck in spring, young plants will be ready for the garden by the end of May. They should not be allowed to crowd themselves with foliage, and it is a good plan to restrict them to six branches, which will insure the flowers being well dis- played. Earwigs must be trapped with small flower- pots containing hay, or hollow pieces of bamboo. Of cactus varieties for the garden we might choose Bri- tannia, salmon ; Effective, fawn ; Etna, lilac ; Florence Stredwick, white ; Mrs. Carter Page, crimson ; and Mrs. J. J. Crowe, yellow. Of pompons we could take Bacchus, crimson ; Guiding Star, white ; Nerissa, rose ; Phoebe, orange ; Sunny Daybreak, apricot ; and Tommy Keith, red, with white tips. Of paeony-flowered varieties we could have H. Horsveldt, mauve overlying fawn ; Glory of Baarn, pink, suffused with lavender ; King Leopold, canary ; Germania, crimson ; and Dr. van Gorkum, mauve ; but this is a newer class, and it is probable that finer varieties will be forthcoming every year. The Chrysanthemum is of exceptional value, be- cause not only is it inherently beautiful, but it can be shifted from reserve beds to the border in showery weather when approaching the flowering stage, and so fill up gaps. The habit of the plant is neat, the flowering abundant, and the colours are brilliant. Cuttings may be struck in February or March under glass, and the young plants put out in April or May. With a little attention to staking and thinning the shoots (thinning of buds had better be left to growers COLOUR FOR ALL SEASONS 91 for exhibition) beautiful colour clumps may be had, especially if such varieties as Gertie, salmon-pink ; Goacher's Crimson, red ; Horace Martin, yellow ; Nina Blick, bronzy red ; Rabbie Burns, pink ; White Quintus, white; Crimson Source d'Or, bronzy red; Framfield Pink, pink ; and Jimmie, purplish crimson, are selected. These will give flowers, frost permitting, well into November. The Michaelmas Daisy is one of the abiding glories of the autumn garden. Its perfect hardiness, neat habit, profusion of bloom, and great range of height and colour, render it a most precious plant, well worthy of close study by flower lovers. Propa- gated with the utmost ease by simple root division in the spring, or by cuttings, and growing in almost any class of soil, it is as manageable as it is beautiful. The best results come from culture in deep, well-manured soils, accompanied by division every year or two. Several varieties of the species ainellus, notably bessar- abicus, Framfieldii, and Riverslea, are good for early blooming. These are followed by the novce-anglice and novi'belgii sections, of which Mrs. J. F. Rayner and White Spray are good examples ; also by cordifolius elegans and diffusus horizontalis, two of the best perennial asters that we have. Laevis Ariadne and Calliope are a charming pair, and for late bloom we have ericoides. The Japanese Anemones will do us good service on more modest lines than their great sisters of the autumn border. They are easily increased by division or root cuttings, and thrive in most soils. Lord Ardilaun, Lady Ardilaun, Beaute Parfait, and Coupe d' Argent, are improved varieties of a very good old plant. Autumn species of crocus, or colchiums, or sternbergias, may be grouped near the anemones. Salvias. — In moist, mild places salvias^ such as the 92 THE PERFECT GARDEN blue patens and the scarlet splendens, may be used with good effect. One sees them employed effectively in Irish gardens. They may be associated with white- flowered tobacco plants. These jottings show that there is no lack of material for making beautiful colour groups in Spring, Summer, and Autumn. And it leaves out of account the great bulk of splendid hardy annuals, which may be flowered in a few weeks from seed sown where the plants are to bloom. These, also trees and shrubs for winter and other effects, must have attention in separate chapters. CHAPTER II HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS The word " herbaceous " has come to stand for "natural" as the word "bedder" has for "formal" gardening. It may be that the garden is nearly filled with shrubs and roses, which are not herbaceous plants at all ; no matter, since tender bedding plants are not employed it must be an "herbaceous garden." IP. The great majority of the splendid plants named in the chapter on colour are herbaceous plants in the true sense, that is, they lose their leaves and stems every year, but live at the root, and spring afresh therefrom in Nature's new season. A rhododendron which holds its leaves throughout the winter, equally with a laburnum which retains only its stems, is non- herbaceous, but a Michaelmas daisy, which loses both, is truly herbaceous. Tulips and other bulbs are herbaceous too. After all, exact definitions of horticultural terms are of less importance than a proper comprehension of the uses of flowers, and so long as people can be brought to study hardy plants intimately, not merely to be able to name a plant from its flower, but also to know its wants and capabilities, errors of classification can be readily pardoned. Unfortunately, there is a prevalent mistake much more serious than that of definition, that of lumping herbaceous plants together 94 THE PERFECT GARDEN as a class which will give interest and beauty without cultivation, and artistic effects without arrangement. This arose from the enemies of the bedding system trying to prove too much. In their anxiety to score every possible point in favour of hardy plants they drew parallels between a class that grows perennially in the garden, and another which has to pass several months of the year under glass, of a nature which sug- gested that the former were practically self-cultivators. If they were, the writer would say of them unhesitatingly that they were no fit companions for everyday human beings, and that it were well that they should pass away, and be no more seen. It is not the beauty of wild nature which produces the strongest influence on untrained minds. The silver cohorts of the heavens, the soft lights of sunset and dawn, the flash of spray, the gleam of gold on the spring pastures, all these are vain, because they are unobserved. Those who have to do with the studies of children know how trivial is the influence upon them of the plant which exists, and how powerful is that which they produce. And children of a larger growth exhibit the same trait. To the workman a broad stretch of marsh seen from a height would convey no message. The far-stretching acres of green meadow flecked with sheep, the brown spires of ripened bean stooks ; the waving of reeds in the slow waterways ; the sleepy turning of the distant millwheels ; the trails of smoke from the lichen-stained farmsteads, the hundred and one things that arrest the attention and fill the mind of the artist, have no meaning for the uncultured. And the spring wood- land, with its azure carpet of bluebells, its starry sparkle of anemones, its glistening columns of campion, is equally powerless to move. But a bed of asters that HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 95 is the fruit of conscious effort, and stirs such essentially human emotions as those of pride and parenthood, has a real influence. It is the gardening which calls for effort, the cultiva- tion which stimulates heart and mind, that benefits the world ; all other is worthless. It is the garden-beauty which comes in travail that stirs the deepest love. The garden that grows under our hands, the plants that (as it seems to our limited vision) owe their being to us, are those that really move us. Children of our souls, they steal deep into our beings, and spread their influence over all our lives. We will not look upon hardy herbaceous plants as self-cultivators. An immense class, they present a wide range of requirements. Systems of propagation differ, seasons of blooming are not the same. Some will not thrive without special treatment, few with no treatment at all. The theory of the herbaceous border as a sort of Babel's Tower of plants, into which everything that is available shall be thrust, no matter what its needs or nature may be, is sadly, deplorably false. A herbaceous border is not a Ragged School. It is not a Penitentiary. It is not a Hospital. Those who want to garden with the least possible effort had better keep to the old bedders, if they can- not leave it alone altogether, which is the best thing. Zonal geraniums are really bright and cheerful flowers, which will grow in almost any soil, and can be bought for half-a-crown a dozen or less in May. They are good enough, too good, indeed, for those who affect to garden, but grudge study and effort. Hardy herbaceous plants repay the closest attention. They are beautiful and varied, flowering at nearly all seasons, often brilliant in colouring, and presenting a great range of height and 96 THE PERFECT GARDEN habit. With thought, and hberal culture, they can be made to render splendid service. Just as seakale and strawberries will grow year after year on the same ground, and yield crops of a kind, but give far better returns when renewed annually in fresh, enriched soil, so hardy herbaceous plants will exist and flower with little treatment, but develop a totally different character under culture. It is only a few, such as paeonies and alstromerias, that suffer from frequent disturbance. The majority thrive best when divided, or otherwise pro- pagated, every two years. Deep digging and manuring should be practised annually. Each plant should have individual attention, for if it is not worthy of that it is not worthy of inclusion at all. Some, coarse rooters, will spread a great deal too fast at the base; these should be curbed and semi-starved. Others will be weak, perhaps owing to the thievish propensities of an encroaching neighbour, and these should be dressed with fresh soil and manure. Clumps must be kept clear of each other by neat staking and loose tying, in order to avoid that meaningless jumble which so often mas- querades as an herbaceous border. Most important of all, the impulse should be resisted which dictates that every plant that comes along should be stuffed in. The term "mixed border" should be expunged for ever from the vocabulary of the flower lover. No such thing as a "mixture" of plants should exist. A "mix- ture" of drugs, if you like, a "mixture" of nationalities in a gambling saloon ; but never a mixture of plants. Even where we are not grouping for colour effects, as described in the previous chapter, we should dispose our plants in distinct sets, so that each kind may dis- play its character and individuality. In deep, well-manured, thoroughly tilled soil, which, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 97 holding moisture well, is always cool and fertile, the great majority of herbaceous plants will thrive. Nearly all will do on clay if it is brought into a friable condi- tion, but many do not like clay when it is a stiff, inert, ill-cultivated mass, that clings to the tools instead of crumbling. Practically every herbaceous plant will thrive on good loam. Light, sandy soils are not ideal, but can be made to suit the majority of the plants by working them deeply in autumn, and spreading manure on the surface for turning in in spring, and by mulching them in hot weather. Shallow soils on chalk do not give vigorous growth, but often yield very bright colours. They can be improved by digging as deeply as the chalk will permit, manuring, and mulching. Where it is desired to prepare a special station for a particular clump the chalk may be broken up with a pick. No fruit tree, no shrub, no kitchen-garden crop, responds more generously to good spade culture and manuring than the bulk of hardy herbaceous plants. Plants which, in poor soil, are puny, almost ugly, become in rich, cultivated land beautiful giants. It is in this direction that the practical spadesman with local knowledge can be of great service. He will know when and how the soil is best dealt with. The writer knows of a garden in which a splendid herba- ceous border was produced from meadow in seven months, the gardener doing the cultural work, the employer the grouping of the plants. Herbaceous plants can be put in during autumn or spring. The exact time may well turn on the condition of the land. There should be no hurry to plant in ill-prepared ground, but time should be taken to thoroughly prepare the border, even if that should mean April planting. 98 THE PERFECT GARDEN Nearly all hardy herbaceous plants can be propa- gated by division of the roots, and this simple opera- tion may be performed as soon as growth ceases in autumn, or on its resumption the following spring. Perhaps the latter is the better time ; certainly, plants rarely fail when divided just as growth is starting. The soil is becoming warm, and rapid root formation is encouraged. Generally the outer are better than the inner portions of the clumps. Care should always be taken to get two or three growing " crowns " or buds with each division. A very large number of perennials may be raised from seed, and although fresh plants cannot, as a rule, be flowered so quickly from seed as from divisions, a larger number can be raised. A great many seed themselves in the borders, as poppies and other plants will, carpeting the soil around them with green seed- lings in autumn. These can be transplanted, and flowered the following year. Seed of most things may be sown in June, as this gives time to get strong plants ready for putting out in autumn, if desire^ the same as sweet-williams, wallflowers, Canterbury bells, foxgloves, and other hardy plants treated as biennials are managed. The procedure may consist in preparing a fine, level bed, moistening well, sowing thinly, covering lightly, thinning to prevent early over- crowding, and setting out six inches apart in a spare bed during moist weather in July or August. This always insures strong plants, and is worth the little trouble which it involves. Plants with thick or fleshy roots, such as Anemone japonica, the Prophet Flower {aniebia), the Plume Poppy {bocconia), Burning Bush {dictamnus fraxinella), Sea Holly [eryngium), Oriental Poppy {papaver orientale\ HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 99 the beautiful blue senecio pulcher, and statice latifolia may be rapidly propagated from short pieces of root in spring, much as gardeners propagate boiivardias. In the case of stiff soils it is well to mix some sand and leaf mould together and spread under and over the root cuttings, in order to encourage the rapid formation of roots. Michaelmas daisies, and some other hardy plants, may be propagated by taking cuttings from the base, or side shoots, if desired. Timid folk tremble at the idea of digging among herbaceous plants, from fear of injuring the roots. It is this nervousness which leads to so many bad borders. It is true that it is possible to injure the roots of plants by digging, but it is safe to say that where one plant suffers from this cause a hundred suffer from want of cultivation and manure. If herba- ceous plants are grown in distinct, uncrowded groups in summer, clear of each other in spite of their being full of growth, it is quite certain that when they have died down the spaces between the " stools " will be so well defined that only the most clumsy and careless digger is likely to do any injury. Dig, then, without fear, but equally, of course, without recklessness. It will generally be best to use a fork. A liberal dressing of decayed manure may be dug in at the same time. At different periods during the spring and summer, varying with the weather, hoeing bouts will be neces- sary. Every shower brings weeds through, and it saves labour to deal with them when they are small. Periodical hoeing is an excellent thing for the plants. It takes the grower among them, and gives him oppor- tunities of seeing what they need, in the way of restric- tion, encouragement, staking, and tying. When the earlier things go off, and the foliage begins loo THE PERFECT GARDEN to get dingy, the plants may be cut down to the ground. It does not hurt them, and room is made for the exten- sion of later plants, or for putting out clumps of things that transplant when in bud, such as chrysanthemums and annual asters. Slugs and snails are perhaps the worst enemies of hardy herbaceous plants. They cannot do material harm to very strong things, such as Michaelmas daisies, unless present in overwhelming numbers ; but they may prove serious in the case of choice weaker plants. Dustings of lime at night, or soakings of Hme water, make them uncomfortable, and reduce their numbers. They may be trapped with small heaps of brewer's grains, and then killed by immersion in brine. Wire- worms and leatherjackets may injure fleshy - rooted plants, and will certainly be present in land freshly broken up from pasture. A dressing of vaporite, which is obtainable from seedsmen who deal in horticultural sundries, will check them, but choice plants ought to be further safeguarded with traps formed of pieces of carrot, impaled on the end of a sharp stake, and buried two or three inches deep near the plants which it is desired to protect. Prominence was given, in the chapter on Colour, to certain herbaceous plants of particular value for giving fine colour effects, but there are many beautiful flowers, not suitable for that purpose, which are worthy of culture. We need rarely restrict ourselves to one border. Where there is room we can have one capa- cious border for colour effects, and smaller ones, at the front of shrubberies, beside garden paths, and under house walls. Or we may have special herba- ceous beds. The dwarfest plants, and those of carpeting habit, may be put among stones, or used as edgings. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS loi The following selections, classified according to height, and with their colours, will show the great range of material which exists, and at the same time afford useful hints to the planter. Plants from one inch to six inches high. Ajuga reptans, blue. Androsace chamsejasme, pink and yellow. Anemone apennina, blue. „ alpina sulphurea, yellow. ,, nemorosa, white. ,, ranunculoides, yellow Campanula garganica, blue. „ pulla, blue. Cyclamen coum, rose. Dianthus alpinus, pink. Draba aizoides, yellow. Erinus alpinus, pink. Erythronium dens-canis (dog's tooth violet), pink and white. Gentiana bavarica, blue. ,, acaulis, blue. Iris alata, lilac, purple, and yellow. Iris persica, lilac and yellow. Leucojum vernum (spring snow- flake), white and green. Linaria alpina, violet. Lysimachia nummularia (creep- ing jenny), yellow. Milla biflora, white. Myosotis alpestris (forget-me- not), blue. Omphalodes verna, blue. Phlox reptans, violet. Primula scotica, pink. „ viscosa, purple. Sanguinaria canadensis (blood- root), red. Saxifraga Fortune!, white. Scilla sibirica (Siberian squill), blue. Silene alpestris, white. Soldanella alpina, violet. 1 Plants from six inches to a foot high. Achillea Clavennae, white. Ajuga genevensis, purple. Anemone narcissiflora, cream. „ Pulsatilla (pasque flower), violet. Aster alpinus (michaelmas daisy), purple. Campanula carpathica, blue. „ ,, alba, white. „ portenschlagiana, purple. Corydalis lutea, yellow. Erigeron aurantiacus, orange. Gentiana pneumonanthe, blue. Geranium Endressi, pink. Meconopsis cambrica (Welsh poppy), yellow. Myosotis dissitiflora (forget-me- not), blue. Ourisia coccinea, red. Plumbago Larpentae, violet. Primula denticulata, lilac. I02 THE PERFECT GARDEN Plants from six inches to a foot high {continued). Saxifraga Hostii, pink and Thalictrum anemonoides white. (meadow rue), pink. Stachys grandiflora, violet. Triteleia uniflora, lilac. Zephyranthes atamasco, white. Plants from o?ie foot to two feet high. Achillea ptarmica the pearl, white. Anthericum liliastrum (St. Bruno's lily), white. Aquilegias (columbines), various colours. Armaria cephalotes, pink. Aster amellus, purple, and varieties.* Aster dumosus, mauve.* Cheiranthus Marshalli, orange. Centaurea montana, blue. Commelina coelestis, blue. Delphinium nudicaule, red. Dicentra (dielytra) spectabilis, pink. „ formosa, red. Dodecatheon meadia (American cowslip), various colours. Doronicum (leopard's bane) austriacum, yellow. „ plantagineum ex- celsum, yellow. Erigeron speciosus (fleabane), violet. „ Manescavi (heron's bill), pink. Eucomis punctata, green. Funkia grandiflora (plaintain lily), white. Gentiana Andrewsi, blue. Geranium sanguineum (crane's bill), red. Geum coccineum (avens), red. Gillenia trifoliata, pink. Hemerocallis Dumortieri (day lily), orange. Lobelia cardinalis, red. ,, fulgens, red. „ syphilitica, blue. Lychnis viscaria flore pleno, rose. Monarda didyma (bergamot), red. Morina longifolia, purple. Ornithogalum arabicum, white. Orobus aurantius, yellow. Papaver nudicaule, yellow. Polemonium caeruleum, blue. Primula japonica, rose. Ranunculus aconitifolius, white. Saxifraga granulata, white. Senecio pulcher, rosy purple. Spigelia marilandica, red and yellow. Spiraea palmata, red. Tradescantia virginica (spider- wort), blue. Trillium grandiflorum (wood lily), white. * These are Michaelmas daisies. Ekemurus Himalaicus. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 103 Plants from Hvo to three feet high. Achillea millefolium roseum Iris florentina, white. (milfoil), pink. Anemone japonica, rose, also white and other varieties. Campanula persicifolia, blue. „ „ alba, white. ,, trachelium, blue. Centranthus ruber (valerian), red. Echinops ritro, blue. Geranium pratense, blue Geum rivale, red. Hemerocallis flava (day lily), orange. „ germanica (flag), several varieties. Lilium chalcedonicum, red. „ martagon, red. Lychnis coronaria, red. ,, vespertina flore pleno, white. Lysimachia clethroides, white. Paeony, tree, many varie- ties. Pentstemons, many varie- ties. Spiraea filipendula, cream. Acanthus mollis, purpl white. Achillea eupatorium, yellow. Aconitum napellus (monks hood), blue. Aster floribundus, pink. „ Novi-belgii, several varie ties. Baptisia australis, blue. Plants from three to five feet high and Romneya Coulteri (Californian poppy), white. Rudbeckia grandiflora, purple and yellow. Spiraea ulmaria (meadow sweet), white. Yucca angustifolia (Adam's needle), cream. Plants five feet high and upwards. Actinomeris procera, yellow. Amicia zygomeris, yellow. Aster Novi-angliae, many varie- ties. Clematis fethusifolia, white. Centaurea babylonica, yellow. Epilobium angustifolium, red. Eremurus robustus, pink. ,, himalaicus, white. Gynerium argenteum (pampas grass), white. Helianthus (sunflower) several varieties. Lilium giganteum, white. Polygonum cuspidatum, white. ,, sacchalinense, yel- low. Rudbeckia maxima, yellow. Silphium laciniatum, yellow. Solidago speciosa (golden rod), yellow. I04 THE PERFECT GARDEN The following are a few of the principal kinds classi- fied according to their season of flowering. In most cases there are several species, and in some cases numer- ous varieties, of each. Good varieties of the principal kinds are named in the chapter on Colour. Those which will thrive in partial shade, and those which will tolerate a hot, dry place, are indicated. Spring Adonis vernalis. Alyssum saxatile. Anemones, shade. Antirrhinums (snapdragons), dry. Aquilegias (columbines), shade. Arabis (rock cress), dry. Aubrietia, dry. Bellis (daisy). Corydalis, shade. Daffodils, shade. Dielytra, shade. Doronicums. Geum. Iberis (candytuft). Irises, some dry. Lily of the Valley, shade. Pseonies. Phloxes and polyanthuses, shade. Pyrethrums. Ranunculuses. Saxifrages, dry. Scillas, shade. Tiarella (foam flowers), shade. Trollius, shade. Tulips. Violas. Summer Achillea (milfoil). Aconitum (monkshood). Alstromeria, dry. Anchusa. Anemones, shade. Anthemis. Anthericum. Aster (Michaelmas daisy). Bocconia (Plume poppy). Campanulas. Centaureas. Chrysanthemum (ox-eye daisies). Coreopsis. Delphiniums. Dianthuses. Dictamnus (burning bush). Echinops. Erigeron. Erodium. Eryngiums (sea holly). Funkias (plantain lilies), shade. Gaillardias. Galegas (goat's rues). Galtonia. Gentians. Yucca glokiosa (Adam's Needle). HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 105 Oenotheras (evening primroses), shade. Pseonies. Pansies. Papaver (poppy). Pentstemons. Phloxes. Physalis (winter cherry). Polygonums (knotweeds). Potentillas (cinquefoil). Pyrethrums. Rudbeckias (cone flowers). Scabious. Senecio. Solidago (golden rod). Spiraeas (meadow sweet), shade. Statices. Stenactis. Thalictrum (meadow rue), shade. Verbascums (mulleins). Veronicas. Vinca (periwinkle), shade. Violas, shade. Geraniums, shade. Geum. Gladioli. Gypsophilas. H^leniums. Helianthemum (sun rose), dry. Helianthus (sunflower). Hemerocallis (day lily). Heuchera, shade. Hollyhocks (St. John's wort), shade. Hypericum. Inula. Irises. Kniphofia (tritoma). Lathyrus (pea). Lobelias. Lupins. Lychnis (dry). Meconopsis (poppy). Mimuluses (monkey flowers), shade. Monarda (bergamot). Autumn Anemones, Japanese, shade. Asters (Michaelmas daisies). Boltonia (false aster). Chrysanthemums. Dahlias. Sedum spectabile. Winter Anemones. Arabis, dry. Aubrietia. Chionodoxa(Gloryof the snow). Christmas rose (helleborus). Crocuses. Daffodils, shade. P'orget-me-nots, shade. Fritillarias (snake's head lilies) Hepaticas, shade. Irises. Orobus. Scillas, shade. Violets, shade. ^! CHAPTER III ROCKERIES In revising some earlier pages of the present work, the writer observes passages which the hypersensitive rockery lover might possibly construe as hostility to a form of flower-growing which enjoys high favour. The more judicious reader will not so misread them. To state that a rockery is not a flower garden is hardly the same as saying that a rockery is undesirable, any more than stating that a chorus does not constitute an opera reflects on the chorus. And to condemn the dragging in of a rockery in a place for which it is unsuited, is not to suggest that a rockery should never be provided in a place for which it is suited. It would be foolish and unreasonable to take up an attitude of unmeasured hostility to rock-gardening merely because a few people have lost their heads over it. There are people who lose their heads over King Charles spaniels, but that cannot be accepted as sufficient grounds for advocating the immediate immo- lation of the whole race of dogs. The interest and charm of rock-gardening are con- ceded, not merely without reluctance, but with positive pleasure. If the pleasure falls short of enthusiasm it is because that is reserved for the larger aspects of gardening — the creation of beautiful colour pictures. The rockery shall form an item — an important and io6 ROCKERIES 107 valued item — in the general scheme of the garden ; it shall be one of the most cherished children in the floral family. But for the fear of the greater interests of the garden suffering, it would be easy to go further than this. Most sweet, most dainty, most appealing, are the denizens of the southern mountains. One's heart softens to a tiny, rose-hued phlox cradled amid stones as it does to a pink and white, smiling infant in its cot. One cannot wonder that women love rock plants when one sees how intimate is their appeal. They are not rampant, assertive things, growing like forest ponies, self-confident, exuberant, all but wild. For the most part they are small, gentle, yielding. Confined in their cribs of stone, they seem to stretch out wee pink arms asking mutely for constant love, and attention, and help. Dear, clinging, adorable morsels of plant humanity, they stir deep-seated emotions of protecting motherhood. In the small garden which affords no scope for flower-grouping a rockery will be supreme. It will be a little world unto itself. There the flower lover will spend happy hours, amid sunshine and tender influences. Some of the plants will be in bloom before Winter is out — a choice snowdrop, a clump of some beautiful species of crocus, as delicately pencilled as a cloud ; a dwarf but glittering iris. Spring will bring a host of lovely things — silvery cushions of cerastium and saxi- frage, dainty androsaces, sparkling phloxes, soft-toned anemones, gentians with the deep blue of Italian skies, silvery spires of perennial candytuft, and glowing primulas. Carpets of blue and white rock cresses and yellow alyssum will spread over the stones. Summer will give many beautiful things, and in cool, moist, shady io8 THE PERFECT GARDEN recesses colonies of ladies' slipper orchids will lift their graceful flowers. Autumn will yield blossoms too — perhaps a cluster of hardy cyclamens, the golden light of the sternbergia, and many charming crocuses, amongst others. There will be few months in which some child-fiower does not smile a winning welcome to the gardener. Yes, fancy, imagination, love, play brightly around the rock garden. We enjoy it for what it is, and not less for what it suggests — the pure air of the snow-clad mountains ; the clear ringing voices of the goatherds ; the glowing sheets of blossom on the Pyrenean slopes and in the Tyrolese woodland. We enjoy, but we retain our mental balance. We do not let enthusiasm carry us away, and rush us into schemes that are beyond our means. We know that rock-gardening is relatively costly — that in proportion to the area of ground which the rockery covers it will entail ten times the expense of other portions of the garden. Soil of the best, suitable stones, a large number of small plants, must all be provided. We see all this, and we take a sensible view. If we cannot have a large rock garden we will content ourselves with a small one. And at all events we shall have the satisfaction of knowing that if we cannot emulate the effects of our more wealthy neigh- bours, all which we attempt is within the scope of our means, and is the unaided work of our own hands. In the chapter " The Conquest of the Wild " we saw how, in the formation of drives and the facing of banks — operations that generally accompany the making of a new house and garden — we look ahead, and form the nucleus of a rockery. The thin coating of earth lying just beneath turf is generally very fertile. It is no better than the turf itself ROCKERIES 109 when that is decayed, but an interval of several months elapses before stacked turf is ready for use. The "under-cut" is ready at once, and the only thing against it is that it is likely to contain a good many wireworms and leatherjackets, which are not desirable occupants of a rockery. In the hope of getting rid of them the soil should be laid in a shallow heap, when carted to the place where the rockery is to be made, and studded with baits of carrot and potato impaled on sticks, which can be drawn out and examined at intervals. Additions of lime and mortar rubbish will discourage the pests. The soil may be enriched with rotten manure. De- cayed turves which have lain in a heap for several months will not need this addition, but may be chopped up and used as they are. Full of fibre, the material will be thoroughly fertile, and such as rock plants love. Mere dust and manure are not good enough for them. They need soil with fibre. Road grit, mortar rubbish, and stone chips are good substances to add to stiff soil. In taking up turf, then, we find soil for rockeries. If the contractor who does our carting for us can lead in rock before our drive receives its finishing coat of gravel, so much the better ; we then get the second component of our rockery, and we get it without taking rough carts over a brand-new, highly polished, spick- and-span drive. Rock is not always easy to get locally. There may be no quarries within fifty or a hundred miles. This raises an important question. Since railway rates must come into the business, shall we not go the whole hog, and get Derbyshire stone ? Any of the nurserymen who send us catalogues of hardy plants, and show us their beautiful wares at the great flower shows, will give us no THE PERFECT GARDEN an estimate, and we can ascertain to a penny how much the stone will cost delivered at our station. Of course, the amount will be three or four times as much as we should have to pay if we were able to get rock by traction-engine from a quarry a few miles away, but the stone will be much better, probably. It is the difficulty of getting large stones that induces people to make rockeries of burrs and clinkers. It needs a cunning hand to make a pleasing rock garden out of these unnatural substances ; the more credit if success follows. The better the soil, and the harder the stone, the more satisfactory the result will be. The quantity of the former, and the size and nature of the latter, will decide us as to whether we shall be satisfied with a rockery, or can soar to a rock garden. For there is a world of difference between the two. A nice rockery may be made of a simple mound consisting of a few cartloads of soil, with stones embedded. A rock garden calls for arrangement — design. There is no reason why an amateur should not make a very satisfactory rockery, provided he works on the six cardinal points : (i) to provide good soil ; (2) to use large stones ; (3) to bed the stones firmly ; (4) to tilt the stones inward instead of outward in order to retain moisture ; (5) to make pockets wide at the top and narrow at the bottom ; (6) to avoid shade. It is not, however, so simple a matter to make a rock garden, possibly involving steps and terraces, and the use of very large slabs of stone. Where considerable ROCKERIES III expense is being gone to it is perhaps wise to go to a little more, and get the assistance of an expert from one of the hardy-flower firms. These people would give an estimate for the whole thing— stone, freight, construction, supervision, even plants too — if desired. The most common fault in home-made rockeries is that they are over-stoned and dry. Over-stoning is really easier when small than when large stones are used. Pieces of stone weighing an average of seven or eight pounds each are much more satisfactory to work with than stones weighing no more than a pound. If they are set approximately in tiers, mostly horizon- tally, except for the top tier, which may be vertical, they are likely to look well. The rockery will be dry and unsatisfactory if the stones tilt outward, because rain will be thrown off. If the stones tilt inward, and if the pockets are wider at the bottom than the top, water will soak in, and sustain the plants. What is said as to the necessity for moisture must not lead the rockery-maker to suppose that a wet site is desirable ; it is objectionable. But the plants must have summer moisture. When the tiers have been completed smaller stones may be placed between them at right angles, in order to form pockets. The rockery will then be ready for the plants. This *' terrace " system of rockery-building has four important things to recommend it : (i) it pro- vides an intelligible plan for the beginner to work on ; (2) it gives plenty of room for plants; (3) it retains moisture ; (4) it has a natural appearance. Let us now turn to a consideration of the plants. One of our first thoughts must be to provide for flowers over a long season, so as to maintain the interest, and this we can achieve without difficulty. We will classify I 12 THE PERFECT GARDEN them in their seasons, and put an asterisk to a few of the most useful and interesting plants for the benefit of those who cannot grow a large number. Spring Adonis vernalis, yellow. Ajuga genevensis, blue. *Alyssum saxatile compactum, yellow. Anemone apennina, blue. „ blanda, blue. * „ nemorosa cserulea, blue. „ Pulsatilla (pasque flower), violet. Antennaria tomentosa, a sil- very carpeter. *Arabis albida, white. * „ alpina flore pleno (double), white. *Arnebia echioides (prophet flower), yellow. ♦Aubrietia Leichtlinii, rosy red. * ,, Campbelli, violet. * „ Fire king, bright red. *Cerastium Biebersteinii, a sil- very carpeter. Crocus aureus, orange. „ biflorus, white. „ chrysanthus, orange. * „ imperati, purple. „ Sieberi, lilac. ,, tommasinianus, laven- der. Cyclamen coum, rosy red. ,, hederrefolium, pur- ple. Dianthus (pink) alpinus, rose. ,, arenarius, white. * „ cassius (cheddar pink), rose. Dodecatheon meadia (Ameri- can cowslip, lilac. Draba aizoon (whitlow grass), yellow. Dryas octopetala, whits. Erinus alpinus, violet. Erythronium dens canis (dog's tooth violet), rose. „ grandiflorum, yellow. „ g i g a n t e u m, white. *Gentiana acaulis, deep blue. „ verna, blue. Hepaticas, blue, red, and white (like shade). Hutchinsia alpina, white. *Iberis (perennial candytuft) corifolia, white. „ Gibraltarica, white. * ,, sempervirens, white. Iris biflora, purple, yellow beard. ,, cristata, lilac, yellow crest. ,, iberica, lilac and white. ,, pumila, lilac, white beard. ,, sisyrinchium, lilac,yellow spots. *Leontopodium alpinum (edel- weiss), white foliage. Linnsea borealis, flesh. Linum alpinum, blue. ,, arboreum, yellow. ROCKERIES 113 Myosotis alpestris (forget-me- not), blue. * ,, dissitiflora, blue. *Narcissus cyclamineus, yellow. * ,, Johnstoni, Queen of Spain, yellow. „ triandrus (angel's tears daffodil), yellow. ,, triandrus albus, white. Omphalodes verna, blue. Orobus vernus, blue. Oxalis floribunda, rose. Phlox divaricata, lilac. ,, ovata, red. „ reptans, violet. „ subulata, white. * „ „ frondosa, rose. * „ „ Newry Seed- ling, lilac. * „ ,, Vivid, rose. Primula denticulata, lilac. ♦Primula japonica, crimson (cool place). ,, marginata, violet. * „ rosea, rose (cool place). ,, scotica, purple, yellow centre. Ranunculus amplexicaulis, white. Saxifraga (rockfoil) aizoon, cream. ,, ceratophylla, white. „ cordifolia pyramid- alis, red. * ,, granulata, white. * ,, oppositifolia major, purple. * „ Wallacei, white. Soldanella alpina, violet. Triteleia uniflora, lilac. Veronica chamaedrys, blue. Waldsteinia trifolia, yellow. Summer Acaena microphylla, red and green. Acantholimon glumaceum, rose. Achillea Clavennas, white. * „ tomentosa, yellow. /Ethionema grandiflorum, rose. *Androsace carnea, rose. * ,, lanuginosa, rose. ,, villosa, rose. Antennaria dioica, pink. *Arenaria balearica (sandwort), white. *Armeria cephalotes (thrift), crimson. Aster alpinus, purple. Campanula carpathica, blue. ,, ,, alba, white. * ,, garganica, blue. * „ puUa, blue. ,, Raineri, blue. Cheiranthus Marshalli, orange. Convolvulus mauritanicus, blue, white throat. Coronilla varia, rose, trailer. Cyclamen europaeum, red. Cypripedium calceolus, red and yellow. „ spectabile, rose and white. Dianthus alpinus, rose. „ alpestris, red. H 114 THE PERFECT GARDEN Dianthus cruentus, red. * „ deltoides (maiden pink), rose. ,, neglectus, rose. * ,, superbus, rose. Epigsea repens, white, creep- ing. Erodium macradenium, violet. Gentiana bavarica, blue. Geranium argenteum, red. ,, lancastriense, rose. Gypsophila repens, white. Helianthemums (sun roses), red, white, and yellow varieties. Iris Gatesii, white, marked .grey- Linaria alpina (toadflax), violet and yellow. Linum perenne, light blue. *Lithospermum prostratum, blue. Nierembergia rivularis, white trailer. *Onosma tauricum (golden drop), yellow. Oxalis Bowiei, rose. *Papaver (poppy) nudicaule, orange. *Primula cortusoides, rose. ,, farinosa, lilac. „ viscosa, purple, white centre. Pyrola rotundifolia (winter green), white. Ranunculus montanus, yellow. Saponaria ocymoides (soap- wort), white. Saxifraga cotyledon pyramid- alis, white, hypnoides, white, longifolia, white, (stonecrop) acre, yellow, glaucum, pink, lydium, pink. *Sempervivum (houseleek) arachnoideum, red. *Sempervivum tectorum, red. *Silene (catchfly) acaulis, pink. „ maritima, white. * ,, schafta, rose. Thymus serpyllum, purple. ,, lanuginosus, woolly. Tunica .saxifraga, rose. Veronica teucrium, blue. ,, prostrata, blue. „ rupestris, blue. * *Sedum * * Autumn Colchicum autumnale (meadow saffron), purple (there are several forms of this, with different coloured flowers, both single and double). „ speciosum, lilac, several varieties. Crocus iridiflorus, blue. ,, longiflorus, lilac. ,, nudiflorus, purple. „ sativus (saffron crocus). * „ speciosus, purple. * „ zonatus, rosy lilac. ♦Cyclamen coum, rose. ,, europseum, red. Sternbergia lutea, yellow. ROCKERIES 115 Winter Several of the Spring species of Crocus may be in bloom in Winter. Cyclamen coum, rose. Iris alata, lilac and purple. ' „ Bakeriana,violetandwhite. ,, Danfordiffi, yellow. ■ ,, histrio, lilac. ,, persica, yellow, green, and lilac. ,, ,, Heldreichi, laven- der, yellow crest. ,, reticulata, violet, lined yellow. Iris reticulata Krelagei, purple. ,, rosenbachiana, yellow, orange, and purple. „ Vartani, lilac, yellow crest. *Snowdrop(Galanthus) Elwesii, white ; there are several good va- rieties, notably whittallii. ,, plicatus (Crimean snowdrop), white. Plants for a Dry Rockery We have seen that dry rockeries are to be avoided if possible, but it may be useful to name a few plants which will do better than the majority of kinds in a dry position. Acaena Buchanani. Acantholimon. Achillea argentea. Alyssum saxatile compactum. Androsace lanuginosa. Anthemis aizoon. Arenaria montana. Armeria laucheana. Artemisia sericea, Aubrietias. Campanula pumila. Cerastiums. Cheiranthus alpinus. Corydalis lutea. Cytisus Ardoinei. Dianthus caesius. ,, Fischeri. Dryas octopetala. Erinus alpinus. Gypsophila prostrata. Helianthemums (sun roses). Iris pumila. Oxytropis canipestris. Phlox subulata varieties. Saponaria ocymoides. Sedums. Sempervivums. Tunica saxifraga. Veronica saxatilis. Vesicaria utriculata. ii6 THE PERFECT GARDEN Plants for a Shady Rockery We have seen that a shady rockery is not good for most plants, but the following will thrive. It must be admitted that several are larger plants than most people care to put on rockeries. Anemones. Saxifraga geum. Corydalis. Sisyrinchium. Cardamine. Solomon's Seal. Epimediums. Tradescantia. Funkias. Tiarella (foam flower). Hellebores. Trillium grandiflorum (Ameri- Hepaticas. can wood lily). Orobus. Waldsteinia. Podophyllum. The person who studies rock plants will find that all cannot be treated alike. Different soils and aspects are called for. Some need winter protection. Some need lime. It is impossible, in a general work, to state all the differences. To deal with each of the principal kinds fully would fill a large volume. Experience, and perusal of special works, by those who are going into rock-gardening thoroughly will soon teach valuable lessons. As a final word, 'ware slugs and snails, which are often very destructive. Trap them with heaps of brewer's grains at night ; search for them unremittingly. Very choice plants may be preserved by placing a collar of brass wire gauze round them. o CHAPTER IV ROSE BEAUTY A BEAUTIFUL rose garden, with its brilliant pillars of ramblers, its glowing beds, its floral chains, its arches with their dangling sprays, its perfumed paths, presents an alluring picture to the flower lover. He may have come to it straight from a rose show, with its intolerable rows of green boxes, and its insufferable atmosphere of narrow specialism ; and he gazes with a great uplifting of the heart, and with a range of vision that suddenly grows wider — almost illimitable. A flower capable of winning a prize may never have been cut from the garden. There might be flowers in thousands — single and double ; small and large ; flowers borne on long individual stems ; flowers in thick clusters ; flowers white, yellow, copper, pink, rose, carmine, scarlet, and crimson ; flowers of many forms, and many hues ; but no bloom v;hich, cut and substituted for one of the flowers in a prize stand, would not be considered as weakening rather than strengthening the box. The rose exhibitor Axes certain standards, and they are not the standards of the rose gardener. The former concerns himself with the size, shape, youth, and fresh- ness of the individual flowers. He does not consider their cumulative eftect on the plants at a distance, but their appearance on a board immediately under his eye. He may or may not be a good rose gardener, generally ii8 THE PERFECT GARDEN he is not. His plants are arranged in stiff rows, with a forest of stakes holding up an array of grandmother's nightcaps, the object whereof is shade for certain selected flowers. As a rule, the place is only of in- terest to the rose gardener in so far as it contains new varieties, and certainly the rose exhibitor is generally a great man for novelties. He is always on the look-out for new things, with a view to putting something fresh into his boxes. The rose gardener will not go to an exhibitor's garden for lessons in the use of roses for beautiful effects out of doors, on the plants, but to places where roses are studied as garden plants, such as Kew, East- well Park, Downside (Leatherhead), and Mr. H. V. Machin's at Worksop. The gardens of exhibitors are often mere breeding-grounds for silver cups. They are not considered as beautiful creations, sufficient in themselves for human satisfaction, but as plant studs' which must yield a certain amount of stock that can be turned into money. A rose garden should be as much the expression of pure art, unsullied by any ulterior consideration of medals and prize cards, as a great picture or musical composition. If flowers suitable for winning prizes can be cut from it without sacrificing the main object well and good, but they should only be a secondary consideration. Directly they are put into the first place the garden tends to suffer. It is not that the plants are bad ; plants to yield prize blooms must be of the best. It is that the spirit of repression becomes active, and the plants are prevented from assuming free, loose, and graceful forms. It is only just to acknowledge that things are not nearly as bad as they were. Pressure of public opinion has led to the in- ROSE BEAUTY 119 elusion of classes for decorative garden roses in the schedules of the principal shows, and not only exhibi- tions, but gardens, are the better for the change. The restricted plant still receives the most attention in the exhibitor's garden, however, because the principal prizes are offered for individual flowers. In planting a rose garden one should no more be dominated by the idea of money than Watts was when he painted "The Light of the World." The painter was inspired by the noblest and purest instincts of his glorious art ; and the rose gardener should be moved by the same influences. He should have an ideal, and it should be a lofty one. He should not desire to snatch a trophy from the hands of a rival, but to express, in beautiful flower pictures, the emotions which have taken possession of him. The rose is pre-eminently a plant which lends itself to artistic use. Consider the great diversity of habit which the different classes display — the long, graceful, arching growths of some, the drooping habit of others, the trailing shoots of the wichuraianas, the dense, bushy, rugose character of the Japanese. Observe the multitude of loose clusters in varieties like Alister Stella Gray, the massive, glowing bunches of the ramblers, the shower of brilliant flowers on Carmine Pillar, the thickly clad sprays of the Penzance briers. While most are leaf-losers in winter a few are ever- green. There are possibilities in roses which few plants possess, and which are still only imperfectly realised. In a great many cases Crimson Rambler is the only representative in flower gardens of a large and valu- able class. Beautiful rose though it is, it conveys but a limited idea of the wealth of material available. An 120 THE PERFECT GARDEN arch of Crimson Rambler (often, too, in an inappro- priate place) should not be the ultimate expression of the flower lover's leanings towards the artistic use of roses. He should endeavour to form an actual rose garden, however small circumstances might compel it to be, and he should try to represent within it the various beautiful forms which roses take, not contenting himself with a few formal beds and the inevitable arch. Waste Places Beautified by Roses There are waste places in many gardens which could be transformed into charming rose homes. Perhaps it is a worn-out orchard, the trees of which are in the last stage of decrepitude, and have long ceased to bear crops of any value. Perhaps it is a piece of an over-large kitchen garden with a clay soil that yields nothing better than potatoes of poor quality. There are great possibilities in the orchard. Those old trees, which are picturesque for a week or two in spring during the seasons when they happen to bloom, and desperately ugly all the rest of the year, are veritable gifts from Heaven for supporting roses. With a little brisk, well-judged work with the saw, they can be made to yield double service. Some of the upper forks can be taken out, deprived of the small twigs, and set in the " picture beds " (see Chapter v.. Part II.) to support semi-climbing varieties — roses which are neither dwarfs nor pillar plants, but are often spoiled by being barbarously pruned to ground eyes, whereas if lightly pruned they would produce dozens of graceful sprays. The main body of the trees will support the typical pillar roses, such as ROSE BEAUTY 121 Carmine Pillar, which will send its long canes gratefully up the gnarled trunks, and fling its fiery gonfalons in brilliant confusion about the topmost stems. Of course, manure will be wanted, for the soil may have been impoverished by the fruit trees, but it is easily provided. The bloated kitchen garden has possibilities also. People often plant potatoes with little other object than to fill up ground. But potatoes are one of the worst crops to fill up heavy land with, being susceptible to blight, and generally wanting in flavour. It were surely better to buy high-quality potatoes from lighter soil than to ''fill up" with an unsuitable crop, which, after all, hardly pays for the growing. Heavy kitchen- garden soil, which has probably been deeply cultivated and well manured, will grow splendid roses. All that is needed is a plan and a supply of suitable supports. The beautiful rose garden at Eastwell Park, near Ashford, Kent, is formed of the original kitchen garden, and the fruit trees which once grew there for fruiting purposes now serve as supports for roses. Charming Designs for Rose Gardens The rose garden need not be large, nor need it be very costly, either to make or maintain. A charming design can be carried out within the compass of a few square rods. Perhaps the rose lover will lean to the main principle underlying the gardens designed by the late Dean Hole — namely, a series of beds, each filled with one chosen variety of rose, sur- rounding an interesting central object, such as a fountain, or an arbour. The entrance is arched, of course, and pillars are arranged beside the walks, all 122 THE PERFECT GARDEN of which are arched. The principle might not suit all places, but it has much to commend it. It has style, force, and character. It is a happy combination of the formal and the informal. If there is any tendency to stiffness in the beds, it is relieved by the liberal pro- vision of arches and pillars. Some rose lovers might demur to the one - bed - one - variety system, on the ground that it greatly hmits the number of sorts which could be grown, and also leads to sameness, but it has much to commend it. With a wise choice of vigorous, free - blooming varieties, beautiful colour groups can be produced, and the cumulative effect is far more powerful than any that can be produced by mixing varieties. Whether large or small, the rose garden must be free from stiffness. The design may be simple, but it must be harmonious. The aim should be to produce a general effect that, while rich and warm, is never- theless light and graceful. A square could be treated as follows : At each right angle form a bed which presents a concave outline to the centre. At each corner of each bed place a pillar, connected by chains with a series of pillars along each side of the square, thus completely enclosing it. Form in the centre of the garden an octagonal bower, a tall central pillar being connected by light poles with the eight outer pillars. Surround the bower with a set of eight heart- shaped beds, the point of each facing the centre of the eight bays of the octagon. Complete the design by forming four crescent-shaped beds, one at the back of each pair of hearts. This design is essentially simple, and it is beautiful. It robs the square of all stiffness. It is equally good on a large and on a small scale. It combines the ROSE BEAUTY 123 formal with the informal. It is harmonious, and pro- vides abundance of scope for the use of the lovely pillar roses which are now so popular. They will climb the pillars, and ramble along the chains. The heart beds may be planted with one variety each, strongly-marked, continuous bloomers being chosen. The crescents may be filled with mixed varieties, diver- sified by low stumps. Here, then, is a plain, rectangular piece of ground turned into a beautiful rose garden, absolutely informal, full of lightness, grace, colour, and beauty. It is only one of many plans which may be resorted to in order to form interesting and charming features in flower gardens. Pergola, Pillar, and Arch Roses The great rose growers of the past were almost entirely exhibition men, and knew little or nothing of the making of rose gardens. Perhaps we ought to sympathise with them rather than blame them, because they lacked the beautiful material which we possess to-day. They had no Crimson Rambler, no Carmine Pillar, no Hiawatha, no Penzance Briers. They had, however, Felicite Perp6tue, Bennett's Seedling, Celine Forestier, Wm. Allen Richardson, Blairii No. 2, Maiden's Blush, the Banksian, Boursault Amadis, and Gloire de Dijon. Looking backward, one recalls the days when Gloire de Dijon was grown in nearly every garden, and was on the tongue of every rose lover. Wm. Allen Richardson, pretty in the bud, though coarse as a blown flower, also had a wide circle of admirers. Where are these old favourites now ? Some of the old trees still live, but the number of fresh ones planted can only be small compared with what 124 THE PERFECT GARDEN it used to be. Both Gloire de Dijon and Wm. Allen Richardson are wall rather than pillar plants, but Felicit6 Perp^tue and Bennett's Seedling are admirable pillar roses. The former clouds its supports over with a beautiful white cumulus, the latter has marvel- lous vigour of growth, and, speedily climbing the loftiest pillar, proceeds to scramble along any support which presents itself. The pretty little evergreen, yellow-flowered Banksian still enjoys a certain measure of favour, but for the rest — finis ! Celine Forestier and Maiden's Blush, Boursault Amadis and Blairii No. 2, Fortune's Yellow and Persian Yellow — these and many other once-popular roses are gone. They served in their day, and because there is something of sentiment — of early loves and youthful illusions — associated with them, we give them one kind thought before we part with them for ever. The Crimson, Pink (Euphrosyne), White (Thalia), Yellow (Aglaia), and Blush Ramblers, Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, Hiawatha, the Paradise Rambler, Carmine Pillar, Mrs. Flight, Ards Rover, the Penzance Briers, and Longworth Rambler are the pillar, arch, and pergola roses of to-day. Of course. Crimson Rambler heads the list ; equally of course, Dorothy Perkins comes second ; equally of course, Carmine Pillar comes third. These form our great trinity ; these are the three graces of our pleasaunce. We take them first, and add others as our space permits. Carmine Pillar will bloom in June, and then pass ; Crimson Rambler will bloom in July and August, and pass ; Dorothy Perkins will bloom in July and August, but will not pass ; she will bloom on and on until the autumn. Ought we not, after all, to put her at the head of our list ? Should she not take precedence Crimson Rambler Rose growing over an old tree in Mr. a. C. Leney's Garden, Saltwood, Hythe. ROSE BEAUTY 125 even of Crimson Rambler ? This is a question for debate, but for calm debate ; there must be no acrimony in the rose garden. Where, pray, lies the much-vaunted superiority of Lady Gay over Dorothy Perkins ? A little deeper tinge of colour, some say. It is not always discernible, if ever ; and even if it were, what matter ? The colour of Dorothy Perkins is a lovely shade of pink ; we do not want it deeper. We can do, of course, with a rose as good as Dorothy Perkins which has deeper-coloured flowers, but we shall not turn Dorothy Perkins out to make room for it. There are, too, the wichuraianas, so often, and rightly, recommended for banks, but also good for pillars. We ought to feel that we owe a special debt of gratitude to the wichuraianas, because they are not only beautiful and valuable in themselves, with their strong stems, lustrous leaves, beautiful flowers, and accommodating nature, but in union with other kinds they have given us some of our best sorts. Dorothy Perkins and the Paradise Rambler are two of wichu- raiana blood. Many people know nothing of the wichuraiana rose. The name has a strange, unfamiliar, almost uncanny, sound. The wichuraiana is a rose from Japan, improved in America, and now represented by several varieties, both single and double, and of different colours. The type is white flowered, but the crimson (rubra) is better. The plants grow with the utmost vigour, forming thickets of strong stems. They keep on growing well into the autumn, and the new wood flowers as it grows, so that the plants are nearly always in bloom. The stems are ruddy, and the leaves highly polished. One plant, put out in good soil, will speedily clothe a large bank. Decidedly we 126 THE PERFECT GARDEN must give due thought to the wichuraianas. If a standard rose with a weeping head is wanted, let the first choice be Dorothy Perkins, and the second wichu- raiana rubra. An old rose called Charles Lawson was used a good deal for this purpose in years gone by, but it will never be used again by any one who has seen the two varieties just named. We consider supports in the chapter on Climbers (Chapter VII.), and see that larch and oak, with the base tarred, creosoted, or charred, could be used. One can often buy short, twisted pieces of oak, suitable for the upper part of arches, in country nurseries, or at woodyards. In the case of pillars we can use single poles, or, if material is abundant, set three or four in a group. Pergola-formation is discussed in the climber chapter. We must do our pillar roses well, and the first step is to provide deeply-dug, heavily-manured soil. The ground ought to be broken up to double the depth of a full-sized spade, and a thick coat of manure spread between the two layers. If there is chalk near the surface it might be broken up, and some of it removed to allow of space for manure and (if available) turves. This greatly increases the labour, but it is almost a necessity, for roses will not thrive in shallow soil over- lying chalk. Heavy loams are the best, but lighter soils can be made to answer if they are well deepened and manured, and if a mulching of manure is spread over the surface after the planting is done. It is desirable to plant in November, but spring planting will do on stiff, cool "holding" soils. It is not safe on light and dry ones. The pruning of pillar roses is a totally different busi- ness from the pruning of dwarfs grown for exhibition. ROSE BEAUTY 127 Experts appear to differ as to whether it is advisable to cut the canes hard back soon after the planting in spring or to leave them intact. Some growers prune the canes almost to the ground, and this is certainly a safe course to adopt, because it is followed by vigorous new canes. The drawback is that it loses a year's flowering, unless rich soil and a very favourable season push the plants along, and encourage them to form strong canes in a few weeks, in which case there may be late flowers. Other growers merely remove the dead or unripe portions of the canes, and leave the sound, mature parts. The question is partly one of soil. In light, shallow land it is certainly wise to prune back after planting, even if flowers are sacrificed for a year, as the plants will be the better for it in after years. In rich, cool, heavy soil it is not necessary. When the plants are well established annual pruning back, such as the dwarfs get, must be avoided, because the flowers come on short side shoots pushing from the canes made in a previous year. To get plenty of flowers we need a supply of strong, well-ripened canes. These may be one year or several years old, but it is to be noted that when the canes get very old and bark- bound they do not flower so well as younger ones, and a little thinning out becomes advisable. The advice often given to strictly avoid pruning Crimson Rambler should be qualified by this consideration. Carmine Pillar, the various ramblers, indeed all roses which make long canes, should be pruned occasionally, but it should principally consist of thinning out superfluous canes. There must never be a general cutting back. In the case of a very free-growing rose Hke Felicit6 Perpetue, a great deal of thinning will be necessary, or it will become a thick tangle of shoots. 128 THE PERFECT GARDEN Strong cord will be needed to fasten the main canes to the pillars, as ordinary tying material is soon chafed through. The outer canes may be lightly looped to the central ones, and it is a good plan to shorten one or two of them to half their length, in order to insure a plentiful supply of flowers near the ground, and so get a column or pyramid of bloom from the base to the summit. The Penzance briers and Felicite Perp6tue respond well to this treatment, but it is not so suitable for Carmine Pillar, and other varieties, which make fewer, but stronger, canes. March is the month for pruning. Bedding Roses We want, for our principal beds, varieties which are vigorous, healthy growers, free bloomers, and of clear, decided colours. Never mind if the flowers are intrin- sically imperfect from the exhibitor's point of view. That is not the point at issue. There are surprisingly few which answer to our requirements. Most varieties are either quite weak growers, or else decided ramblers, and we do not want either. Our need is for sorts which form natural bushes, growing vigorously without throwing up long canes. Griiss an Teplitz is such a rose, perhaps the best of the class. It grows rapidly, soon forming a bush as large as a red currant, and flowering in bunches all through the summer. Marquise de Salisbury, Liberty, Madame Abel Chatenay, Augustine Guinoisseau, Carohne Testout, and Dr. Grill are others. All these are worthy of beds to themselves. They do not need hard pruning, except for the season of planting, when they may be cut to the ground. Afterwards the less shortening they have the better. If several beds are to be devoted to mixed varieties ROSE BEAUTY 129 let the proportion of tea-scented and hybrid tea varieties be much greater than that of hybrid perpetuals, because in the main they are better garden plants. To begin with, the warm colours of the young wood in spring are almost as rich and grateful as those of paeonies. Then they flower more continuously than the "per- petuals," which are woefully misnamed. Perhaps they are more tender, but all dwarf roses are liable to be cut in very hard weather, and it is well to protect them by drawing earth up in winter, cutting away any injured top growth when the time for spring pruning comes. All weakly-growing roses are the better for hard pruning, in fact they are best cut to the ground every spring, leaving only short stumps with three or four buds on each. Wall Roses Good pillar roses are not necessarily good wall roses ; they are often bad ones. Generally speaking, roses which form long, upright canes, with very few strong laterals, bearing their flowers on short side stubs, are unsuitable for walls. The typical wall rose is that which readily pushes a fan of side branches, like dear old Gloire de Dijon, Wm. Allen Richardson, and Marechal Niel. Crimson Rambler is by no means a model wall rose, nor is Dorothy Perkins. Carmine Pillar is far from being suitable. On the whole, we have not advanced in wall as rapidly as we have in pillar roses. Bardou Job is one of the best of the newer sorts, but it is better for a low than a high wall, and this remark applies equally to Alister Stella Gray and Homere. Aimee Vibert and Bouquet d'Or are fair wall roses ; and these, too, belong to the old brigade. So far as habit is concerned, we have no better I I I30 THE PERFECT GARDEN wall rose than Mar6chal Niel ; but, unfortunately, it is not hardy enough for outdoor culture in most parts of Great Britain, and must therefore be grown under glass. Next to it comes Gloire de Dijon, and this old favourite must still be planted. Reine Marie Henriette makes a very good companion to it, although it does not push laterals quite so freely. The pruning of wall roses should mainly consist of cutting out old or crowded laterals, and fastening in young ones in their places. A limited number of strong flowering shoots, trained in clear of each other, will give better results than a crowded mass of weak ones. The comparative dryness and poverty of soil under walls militate against the success of roses, and in planting the first thing should be to thoroughly enrich the ground with manure, digging deeply. If the soil is very poor, decayed turves as well as manure ought to be provided. Soakings of water and liquid manure will also help. Selections of Roses For bedding For walls, ♦Caroline Testout. Bennett's Seedling.] *Frau Karl Druschki. Gloire de Dijon. Vnorth. ♦Griiss an Teplitz. Fdlicite Perpe'tue. j *La France. Longworth Rambler, "j , Laurette Messimy. Reine Marie Henriette. I , Liberty. Madame Alfred Car- j ♦Madame Abel Chatenay. riere. J ^^^ ' ♦Mrs. John Laing. Wm. Allen Richardson. \ Madame Pernet Ducher. Madame Alfred Carriere./^''^ ■ Marquise de Salisbury. Madame Ravary. For arches, pillars^ and Madame Jules Grolez. pergolas. * Choose for six. Ards Rover. Bennett's Seedling. Rose Fei.icite Perpetue on a house wall. ROSE BEAUTY MI Blush Rambler. *Carmine Pillar. *Crimson Rambler. ♦Dorothy Perkins. *Felicite Perpetue. * Hiawatha. Longworth Rambler. Paradise Rambler. *Pink Rambler (Euphrosyne). Reine Olga de VViirtemburg. Tea Rambler. The Garland. "^ Choose for six. For banks. Wichuraiana. Alberic Barbier. Jersey Beauty. Penzance Briers. Lucy Bertram. Lucy Ashton. Meg Merrilies. Rose Bradwardine. General Garden Roses for Beds Anna Olivier. Antoine Rivoire. Caroline Testout. Fellenberg. Frau Karl Druschki. General Jacqueminot. G. Nabonnand. Grace Darling. Griiss an Teplitz. Gustave Regis. Hon. Edith Gifford. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. La France. Madame Abel Chatenay. Madame Jules Grolez. Madame Ravary. Marie Van Houtte. Mrs. John Laing. Mrs. R. G. Sharman Craw- ford. The Dawson. Ulrich Brunner. Viscountess Folkestone. White Maman Cochet. If it is desired to fill considerable areas of ground inexpensively, the Japanese rose, rosa rugosa, may be planted. It forms immense bushes, and while its flowers are by no means wanting in beauty it is chiefly ornamental on account of its splendid hips. There are several varieties of this useful plant, and three of the best are Blanc Double de Coubert, Conrad F. Meyer, and Madame Georges Bruant. How TO Bud Roses Buy and plant briers in autumn. After a shower towards the end of July, or in the early part of August, 132 THE PERFECT GARDEN make a T-shaped cut through the bark of the side shoots, close to the main stem, and raise the edges of the bark gently. Slip in a bud which has been sliced from a young growing shoot in the form of a shield about an inch long, and of which the pith has been removed, and tie in with worsted. The bud must be kept moist, or it will not grow. The beginner should always try and get a practical lesson in budding from an expert, as it is an operation very difticult to make clear in words. Our short rose chapter teaches us that there are roses for almost every garden purpose, and we see that to look upon the rose merely as a show-tent flower is to trifle with one of the most precious of floral gifts. In working towards the ideal of a beautiful garden, we want all the help that our best plants can give, and the rose stretches out both hands, laden with good things. It is a great and generous helper, and we must go half-way to meet it, with gratitude in our hearts that so much beauty is at our service. CHAPTER V PICTURE BEDS A FLOWER lover who has seen a group of rhododendrons in full beauty on the outskirts of a lawn does not need to be told that a " picture bed " is no mere flight of imagination, but a great reality. Brilliant flowers and green sward blend. The grassy approach to the bed, soft, smooth, and verdant, tunes the mind to sweet thoughts of garden charm and beauty ; and the flowers seem to gain in richness from the association. The one drawback to the rhododendron collection at Kew, so admirable in the quality of the varieties, and in the cultivation of the plants, is that it must be inspected from the close contiguity of a gravel walk. One v/ants to be constantly stepping back, in order to view the shrubs from a greater distance ; and sighs, though perhaps half unconsciously, for a broad intervening band of turf. Grass is matchless as a foil for flow^ers, and wherever sward is carried right to the edge of the soil colour effect is enhanced. A broad herbaceous border on the farther margin of a lawn, and partially encircling it, may give beautiful effects. In its absence it were better to sacrifice a few slices of turf for special beds than lose the rich charm of distant colour. It is somewhat singular that the lesson which the rhododendrons teach has not been carried further. 134 THE PERFECT GARDEN These noble plants only do, often at considerable ex- penditure of labour and money, what can be done simply and inexpensively with less exacting plants. Has any reader tried a large lawn bed of sweet peas, for example ? Has he seen them arranged in clumps three or four feet through, and rising to a height of eight or nine feet — a light, fleecy, glittering medley of fluttering flowers, green foliage, and slender tendrils ? Conceive of such a bed. Think of the gay butterfly throng of flowers, from purest white to cream, buff, pink, rose, orange, scarlet, crimson, magenta, and purple — from pearl to French grey, blue of many shades, indigo and violet. In June the butterfly clans are gathering. They have heard the pibroch of the mating birds, and they have come, like the latter, on the wing. In July they are massed in all their brilliant panoply. The gatherer plies the scissors, but they smile upon the steel, and spring hydra-headed. The army of July melts away, but lo ! another grows almost in a night, and August is greeted by ranks as thick, as merry, as those of July. The roses wane, the dahlias rise, and in September the latter fight hard for garden dominion ; but new hosts of sweet peas come, and dispute the crown. Even in October they remain unsubdued, except by frost. In these five months an ever-varying, but ever-beauti- ful, picture has unfolded itself before the delighted eyes of the grower. He has seen new phases every day. Sometimes he has gone forth in the soft lights of the dawn, when the first shadows begin to creep about the garden, and the flowers sway in tender humility under the influence of the morning breezes. He has studied the plants in the fierce heat of noontide, when the blossoms have given back blow for blow to the hot sun- PICTURE BEDS 135 rays. And he has wandered among them in the evening coohiess and stillness, when they have drooped heads that are weary from the long, hot battle of the day, but still are full of beauty and sweetness. And during all the long weeks of summer his vases have been full, and he has sent visitors away laden. The cost of it all, excluding labour, has been a few shillings — perhaps five shillings for manure, and five shillings for seed. There are other annuals besides sweet peas, less valuable, on the whole, but still rich with the possibilities of good service. And there are cheap perennials — snap- dragons, Indian pinks, Michaelmas daisies, chrysan- themums — which come with cheerful rapidity from seed, division, or cuttings ; plants that increase rapidly, and give fine blocks of colour. There are, too, tuberous begonias, ivy-leaved geraniums, and wichuraiana roses for ground covering. Picture beds must be full of the saving grace of informality. There has grown up round the very name " flower-bed " an atmosphere of stiffness, an association of crinolines. We think of them almost as we think of high stocks — even of stomachers, periwigs, and knee breeches. To have " borders " is to be modern, to have " beds " is to be ancient. Bedding out of the old kind is not dead. It is as lively as the memory of Beau Brummell and D'Orsay. It has its votaries, and it may be left to them, as the memory of Blair Athol and Hermit may be left to old sportsmen. For ourselves, we prefer a new order. We will have pillars in our beds, just as we have them in our borders, and we will cover them with roses, clematises, and other favourite flowers. Around them we will group special plants, such as delphiniums, Hlies, 136 THE PERFECT GARDEN foxgloves, hollyhocks, evening primroses, torch Hlies, irises, and daffodils. We will have colour blocks of tulips, paeonies, gladioli, and other brilliant flowers, set in a dark background of swarthy or bronzy evergreens. In all this grouping, what we learn in the chapters on Colour and Climbers will help us considerably. We will have isolated standards of selected roses, with Dorothy Perkins and wichuraiana rubra as our principal sorts, owing to their freedom of flowering and grace of habit. These features will give unevenness of outline, looseness, informality. There will be abundance of colour, but no sense of " packing." By a liberal use of annuals, or plants which yield readily to treatment as such, we may have beautiful picture beds at an absurdly small cost, because the plants can be raised from seed, the hardy annuals out of doors in April, the others under glass in February or March, and planted in May after being hardened. In addition to sweet peas, there are many summer and autumn blooming plants which, in beauty and duration, are as valuable as many perennials. Bartonia aurea makes a bright mass of yellow. The clarkias, particularly the double variety of elegans, only need thin culture to shine brilliantly for several weeks. Godetias are as showy as pasonies, will stand any heat, and retain their freshness throughout the summer if given room to branch. The lightest annual asters, such as the ostrich plume, are both light and graceful. The salpiglossis has a beauty and character of its own. It possesses colours rarely seen in a garden plant — the hues seen on old metal worked by artificers like Benvenuto Cellini. It has exquisite shadings and venations — subdued, even sombre tints, suddenly breaking into sparkles of gold. PICTURE BEDS 137 The newer species of tobacco plant {nicotiana), such as sylvestris and Sandercs, give very useful material. The former is a valuable plant, growing four to five feet high, and having large spikes of white flowers. The colours of SandercB vary, and some of these are un- pleasing, particularly the magenta, but there are bright rose forms which are well worth having. The habit of the plant is loose, and it flowers freely. It luxuriates in a clay soil. The older white tobacco, alba or affinis, is useful too. The nasturtiums {trcpcBolums) may be used with excellent effect. Varieties of tropcBolum lobbianunt, which are mostly deep orange or scarlet in colour, also the yellow polyphyllum, may be used to ramble over logs. There are, too, various American and continental hybrids available, which have pretty foliage as well as bright flowers. The ordinary " Tom Thumb " varieties are somewhat stiffer in habit, but they make useful " blobs " of colour, and are certainly not to be despised, especially in dry, poor soils. Poppies, as we have seen in a previous chapter, are capable of doing brilliant work. The singles, such as the Shirley, are very dazzling and varied, but they are short-lived flowers, and the large doubles are more lasting. The Rose Mallow {lavatera trimestris) and its white variety are somewhat straggling growers, but they are of undoubted value. The former is of a beautiful shade of rosy pink, blooms freely, and lasts until sharp frost comes. A clump of two or three well-grown plants will give a brilliant touch of colour. The Sunflowers {Jielianthns) include one or two good annuals, notably the cucumber-leaved icucumerifolius) and its varieties. The common species iannuus), as repre- 138 THE PERFECT GARDEN seated by varieties such as Munstead Primrose and Primrose Dame, is worthy of attention. The annual chrysanthemums include two very bright forms of segetum called respectively Morning Star and Evening Star, both shades of yellow, bright, cheerful, and free-blooming. Kochia scoparia has pretty, pale green, fern-like foliage, which turns crimson in late autumn. The annual lupins include some good plants, notably lupinus Hartwegii, blue and white, and lupinus subcar- nosusy violet with white centre. These are vigorous and handsome, although they are not so well known as the common blue, rose, and white lupins. There is a good annual sage in the variety salvia horminum, Blue Beard, and if not equal to the better known species /rt:/^«j- in richness of colour, it is a distinct and useful plant. A patch of the scarlet flax, linum grandiflorum rubruin, gives a bright bit of colour, and we get pink and rose with low growth in saponaria calabrica and siUne pendula compacta. Marigolds are old favourites, and if the richly- coloured Africans are a little garish, they are undeniably bright. O i zinmas, the doubles are much superior to the singles, and there are few annuals more vivid. We get blue in plants of low stature from corn- flowers, phacelia campanularia, the dwarf convolvulus minor splendens, Love-in-a-mist {nigella damascena), nemo- phila insignis^ and lupinus ftanus, all of which can be sown out of doors. Ten-week stocks must not be forgotten ; the singles are worthless, but good doubles make beautiful clumps. One cannot, of course, rely on getting a majority of doubles, but in practice one does, as a rule, get seventy per cent, or even more, from good seedsmen. PICTURE BEDS 139 There is a blue annual pea sold by seedsmen — a pretty plant about two feet high, of neat habit, and very free in bloom. It makes a capital plant for large beds. It is called by seedsmen Lord Anson's pea, but that is an error. It is lathy rus sativus. Lord Anson's pea is a rare plant. The varieties of cosmos bipinnatus, ranging in colour from white to purple, and growing three or four feet high, are serviceable. We can add perfume to our beds by supplement- ing the sweet peas and stocks with mignonette, night scented stock {inatJiiola bicornis). Sweet Sultans, and scabious. So far as our main purpose — Colour effect — is con- cerned, it must be sought in careful restraint. The plants must be in separate groups, each of which is made up of isolated units, not tangled masses. The great danger with all plants raised from seed sown out of doors is that they are grown too thickly ; this means weakly growth and a very brief period of flowering. If the various kinds are seeded thickly they are likely to grow into each other, and then, even for the short time that they remain in bloom, they do not produce the effect that is sought. Transplanted half-hardy annuals raised under glass, such as stocks, asters, phlox drum- inondii, and zinnias, are generally relatively better than the hardy class, because they are set out separately. Seedsmen give the heights and colours of the various plants they sell on the packets, together with advice as to sowing. Several of the best half-hardy kinds, such as asters, phloxes, tobaccos, petunias, and salpiglossis, will give profuse summer and autumn bloom if sown in unheated frames in April, pricked off from the seed- pans into boxes, and planted out in June. This gives I40 THE PERFECT GARDEN the late tulips plenty of time. Every flower lover should have a few boxes of such beautiful things as these, also of snapdragons and verbenas (raised earlier, however), because then the places of bulbs which have gone out of bloom, likewise any gaps in beds and borders, can be immediately filled. The cost is very small. CHAPTER VI THE WATER LILY POOL The heat haze quivers above the water hly pool, and the gnats dance around it. The morning has been dull, but the sun has broken through, and now the sky is a sheet of blue flecked with white, like a carpet of forget- me-nots patched with rock cress. The rose sprays on the adjacent pillars swing idly to and fro, their shadows playing with the water. During the hours when the clouds hung in a lowering mass certain green and brown cones, of about the size of bantam's eggs, nestled amid the floating lily leaves, half submerged. As young growing birds, rising gradu- ally in the nest, like a moored vessel rising on the tide by the quay side, presently overhang the edges of their home, so these shapes, coming up from the cool deeps, partly showed their glistening bodies above the surface. But they lingered shyly, uncertain and fearful. They came from a dim underworld of cool slime, where there was good hiding, into a world of light, where all the shelter they could find was a thick, stiff, unyielding leaf, which offered no motherly protecting wing. And it was not a warm, cheerful world. The sky was overcast, the air was chill. There was a note of brooding on nature. It was no time or place for careful maids to come forth in summer attire. Lightning might flash, thunder roll, and great, rude, stinging, penetrating raindrops come pelting down. 142 THE PERFECT GARDEN The buds (the cones were, of course, hly buds) hung within the water, and showed no signs of opening. The forces within them seemed to have become passive. A httle while previously something had formed a tiny stem with a small knot on the top of it, and the stem had lengthened until it was more than two feet long, and the knot had thickened until it was as large as a dove's egg, and so daylight was reached. But the force appeared to have expended itself, leaving the buds lumps of sterility. Anyway, they snugged against the leaves without a sign of life, although swayed into motion at times under the recurriv.g pressure of the lapping water. The sun set the machinery in motion again. When the orb fairly got through the clouds it burnt strongly. It began to suck up moisture from the pool, and make warm vapour of it. It drew the chill out of the water, and kft it almost tepid. The flaccid stems stiffened, the buds became virile. The cones did not open all at once. The first to venture showed a seam of pink — a thin, red line — so faint that it was hardly perceptible for a long time, but which presently became broader and brighter. Then another cone opened a shy, inquiring eye of blue ever so little, as though it dared do no more than peep. But the eye did not close ; it opened wider and wider, per- haps in wondering curiosity at the richer blue of the sky above it. Later still an adorable stain of yellow appeared on another bud's breast. Decidedly things were moving. By the middle of the afternoon the pool was trans- formed, and an alluring picture spread itself before the watcher's eyes. A star of azure loveliness had spread itself on the cool surface of the water, and smiled up at the bluer vault above. A brilliant rose flower, as rich, THE WATER LILY POOL 143 yet delicate, in colouring as an orchid, expanded. Soft cushions of pearly white toyed with the ripples. The furtive, sombre buds, lurking dubiously on the threshold of a new world, had unfolded, at first by slow and cautious stages, alarmed at every passing cloud ; but later, doubts and fears forgotten, in eager haste. The pool was full of the exquisite blossoms of blue, primrose, crimson, and white. Diogenes, asked by Alexander what service the con- queror could render him, replied that he could stand out of the sunshine. Our water lily is impatient of any- thing that comes between itself and the sun. It does not like to be overhung by trees. And sunlight, so requisite for the development of the flowers, is needed to give that exquisite play of light and shade which is or ^ of the great charms of the water garden. Gently swayed by the wind, the slender green stems of the inter- mingling sedges curtsey to the broad, round lily leaves that lie fiat and still on the surface. Ripples of sunlight and shadow chase each other over the thick, succulent plaques. The water, when in gentle motion, laps round them with an almost imperceptible gurgle. When the ceaseless flicker of ever-varying light plays hide and seek along the water ; when, coyly peeping from among the rushes, the matchless fiowers of the lilies sparkle against the soft green stems ; when the swinging sprays of the neighbouring climbers throw their shadows over the water, the lily pool presents its strongest appeal. It becomes one of those features of the garden which have a constant and endearing influence. Thither, in the evening, one takes one's books. It becomes a garden ingle-nook. In large gardens the lily pool may expand into a pond or lake, and then we can not only provide flowers 144 THE PERFECT GARDEN for the water, but for the margins also. What more glorious plant is there among the whole range of hardy plants than the Japanese iris, known to botanists as IcBvigata, and to many florists as Kcenipferi? To see this wonderful plant in all its beauty, visit the lakeside at Kew towards the end of rhododendron time, or go to the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley, near Ripley, Surrey. There is nothing among sub- aquatic plants to compare with it for size of bloom, vigour of growth, and richness of colour. When the plants find a position quite to their liking, the flowers are nearly as large as dinner plates. They have not the " standards " and " falls " (upright and drooping seg- ments) of the Flag irises, but are flat, or slightly re- curved. Some of them are blue, or blue with white centre ; others white, or white veined with violet ; others, again, combinations of blue, gold, and white. A colony of them glowing in the sunshine on a June morning, with the sparkle of water about them, is a sight to be remembered. The common Water Flag {iris pseudacorus)^ with its cheerful yellow flowers, is a waterside plant which must not be despised. It has not the stately, painted beauty of the Japanese, but it is bright and gay. The Marsh Marigold {caltha palustris), the Grass of Parnassus {par- nassia palustris), the Reed Mace {typha latifolia), the Japanese Primrose {primula j'aponica), with its whorls of crimson flowers, the Marsh Trefoil or Bog Bean {menyanthes trifoliata), the Water Hawthorn [aponogeton distachyon), the Flowering Rush {butonius umhellatus), the Arrow Head {sagittarid), and the Water Violet {hotlonia palustris), not suitable for deep water, are all charming waterside plants. What, however, of our water lilies proper ? for we THE WATER LILY POOL 145 are putting the dessert before the entrees. There is certainly nothing among the sub-aquatics, except it be the Japanese iris, that can vie with the nymphaea in interest and beauty. True, it opens shyly, as we have seen ; true, it closes at sunset ; but in its hour it is matchless. It was named, of course, from the nymphcc, the female deities of ancient Greek mythology. The sea-nymphs were nereides, the river-nymphs naiades, but our beautiful aquatics know other divisions, such as hardy and tender, species, hybrids, and varieties. There is one British nymphaea — alba. It is a beauti- ful plant, and will grow in deep water, which is not good for many of the exotic kinds, but it is scentless. There are several varieties of it, and one — candidissima — is much superior to the parent. The scented water lily {jiymphcea odorata), white, tinted with red, is a glorious aquatic. There is a small form of it, named minor, which is suitable for tubs. Then there is the pretty, white, June-flowering species pygiima, or tetragona, of which there is an exquisite yellow variety called helveola. Tuberosa is a July bloomer, white ; and it has yellow and rose varieties, as well as a double. Both odorata and pygmaea helveola are extensively grown, but the hardy hybrids are the most popular. They are a large and beautiful band. Two of the sections are associated with the names of famous raisers — Laydeker and Latour - Marliac — the latter being called viarliacea. Ellisiana, red ; James Brydon, rosy red ; Laydekeri fulgens, amaranth ; marliacea carnea, pink ; marliacea chromatella, yellow ; odorata sulphurea, yellow ; and William Doogue, red, are all charming hardy water lilies, and, with odorata, will make a splendid selection. These hybrids do not need — in fact are not suited K 146 THE PERFECT GARDEN for — deep water. The ponds where the finest private collections are grown are shallow, and perhaps the average depth of water is not more than two and a half feet. This will be a relief to the pool-maker, who has to make a beginning from a plain stretch of earth, and is not over-comfortable about the water supply. It teaches him that the cost of excavating is likely to be much less than he had expected, and, consequently, that he will have a little more money to spare for plants. Let us consider a few practical questions. First, what shall be the size of our pool ? Perhaps the flower lover will try and decide how many plants he would like, and then allow each one square yard. Thus, if he proposes to grow a collection of a dozen, he must have a pool with an area of a dozen square yards. That is one point settled. Secondly, what shall be the depth of the pit ? Four feet will do nicely. It will allow a few inches for puddling, a few inches for soil, and still nearly three feet for the plants. The sides should slope at an angle of about 30°. Thirdly, how shall we make the pool water-tight ? We may proceed by puddling — that is, plastering with wet clay. The latter must be pure, and such as will beat into a plastic mass when wet. To make a thorough " dough " of it, chop it up into small pieces with a sharp spade, and then, while it is moist, beat it well and spread it in about six inches thick. Afterwards let the heaviest workman go in barefooted and tread it evenly down. Six inches in depth of good turfy loam for planting in may finish this part of the work. For the sides, puddle similarly, beginning at the bottom, and working upwards. As the burly workman cannot operate effectually on the sides with his bare feet, let him beat the clay well down THE WATER LILY POOL 147 with a spade. Carry the clay a few inches above the water Hne. A lining of concrete is not very expensive, and may well be resorted to in districts where clay is scarce, or labour for applying it is not available. A local builder will always give an estimate for making and concreting a pool, and it should include the removal of the ex- cavated soil to the point where it is to be finally deposited, so that the whole job may be finished off. A couple of handy navvies, such as a builder will employ, will do the work of excavating and concret- ing more expeditiously than ordinary garden hands. Fourthly, where shall we get our water supply ? If the pool is made at the lower part of the garden, the surface water can be taken into it by means of drains. There are thousands of gardens in which the surface water all runs to waste in ditches. In other cases roof water is taken by a pipe to the earth, and there allowed to soak away. By opening a trench and laying in an earthenware drain-pipe, this water is trapped, and may be conveyed wherever it is wanted. If using roof water, it will be economical to have the pool fairly near the house, thus saving labour in trench-cutting and expense in piping. When once the pool is filled with water the case is won, because what slight wastage there is is made up for by every rainfall. If the pool is small in proportion to the bulk of water available, it v^'ill be well to provide for an overflow. Fifthly, when and how shall we plant ? Spring is the best period for planting water lilies — say, from mid-April to the end of May. If loam has been laid in the bottom, the roots can be planted in that, and a few small pieces of rock can be placed round each clump to help to keep it in position. The stones will 148 THE PERFFXT GARDEN form pockets, as it were. Smaller plants can be estab- lished on the sides of the pool if a few stones are cemented to the sides, forming saucers. When plant- ing in deep water, one of two devices may be resorted to. The first is to bind the roots of each water lily round with pieces of turf, form a loop in the cord, and then lower the mass to the bottom by passing the end of a long pole through the loop ; attach a heavy stone, if necessary, to cause the mass to sink. The second plan is to place each water lily, with soil, in an old basket and lower that to the bottom. If means permit of the extension of the pool into a pond, the circular form may be departed from. We may have an irregular oval with a waved edge, perhaps a central island or two, and narrowed extremities, over which a rustic bridge may be carried. On broad bands of turf around the pond clumps of bamboos, giant palm- leaved rhubarb [rheum palinatum\ and other handsome foliage plants can be formed. With Japanese irises on the margin, a beautiful addition will be made to the garden. The grower's success may be such that in the course of a few years the pool becomes crowded through the luxuriant growth of the plants. Then there comes a slimy, splashy, but (especially for the younger genera- tion) most delightful task of overhauling. The water is drawn off, and the clumps are removed. The latter are divided, one or two crowns being retained with each portion ; and then, after an inspection and possible rearrangement of the stones, replanting is done. Should the admirer of water lilies visit a large show, he will very Ukely see that an ingenious florist has made a small, narrow tank, and established some water lilies in it, just by way of showing that not only a lake, but THE WATER LILY POOL 149 even a little round pool, can be dispensed with. Cer- tainly water lilies can be grown in tanks. If a person cares to form a brick pit, and line it with cement to make it watertight, he can grow nymphseas in it with very little trouble. And he can grow some of the tender kinds, such as gigantea, lotus devoniensis, stel- lata, and Wm. Stone, if he cares to go to the expense of covering his tank with glass and running a hot-water pipe round it — transforming it into what gardeners term a heated pit. And there is an even simpler way of growing lilies — it is to cultivate them in tubs. In an old garden the writer once formed a little dell. In the centre he sank paraffin-oil casks which had been sawn in halves, and charred with lit shavings. Water lilies were planted in the tubs, and moisture-loving plants placed around them. The banks were planted with forget-me-nots, anemones, grape hyacinths, tulips, Spanish irises, daffo- dils, and other bright flowers. The dell was a very cheerful spot, especially in spring and early summer. When lilies are grown in tubs, it will be necessary to replenish the water supply frequently in hot, summer weather. And it will be wise to throw some loose litter over them during sharp frosts, for the roots will not be far from the surface, and would certainly not be improved by being frozen hard. The smallest garden, then, may have its water- nymphs. They will laugh in the summer sunshine, and make glad the grower's heart. CHAPTER VII BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS AND CREEPERS The very word "climber" conjures up alluring pictures of garden charm. It may be midwinter when we read or write of it, but there comes before us fair visions of summer beauty — roses tossing their flower-laden shoots in the breeze, clematises clothing gateways, honeysuckles rambling over hedges, wistarias swinging their great mauve clusters about the windows. We see arches and pillars clad in a golden, green, and crimson garment of foliage and bloom. Pergolas stretch their long, cool, perfumed lengths before us. Sweetest thought of all, the climbers bring the garden nearer to the home. There may be a certain sense of detachment with some classes of plants ; they are a little distant, a little stif^". We feel that although we know them they are hardly a part of ourselves. The climbers and creepers fling their tendrils all about us, they find crevices in our natures, and take intimate possession of us. They throw- out soft, tender twiners that coil themselves impercep- tibly around our hearts. We clothe the walls of our houses with climbers and creepers, and so bring the plants very near to ourselves. They seem to form a part of our home life. They tap at our windows of a morning, reminding us that the birds are awake and in full song, and that we are losing pre- cious moments of life. They soothe us with delicious odours in the cool evening hours. BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC. 151 On the grey, lichen-stained stones of old pillars the blue clematis gives its most beautiful effects. Tall columns of foxglove or delphinium may rise near, with evening primroses, white lilies, and torch lilies at their feet. Simple colour groups like these make exquisite garden pictures. Grey-brown larch pillars in the mixed border, splashed over with the brilliant flowers of Car- mine Pillar and other roses, form backgrounds for lofty spires of hollyhock, around which are grouped pjeonies, irises, garden chrysanthemums, or other selected flowers. The modern flower-garden must be rich in flower studies in which climbers and creepers play a prominent part. We must not think of them as adjuncts, but as integral parts. They must come into our earliest schemes, and not be introduced as mere afterthoughts. Whatever its plan may be, a garden can never appear formal if rambling plants are employed freely on stumps, pillars, arches, and pergolas. They rise triumphant over uni- formity, and give that air of brightness and grace which adds so greatly to the charm of a garden. Queen of this, as of all other classes of garden flowers, the rose is given a chapter to herself. Carmine Pillar, Longworth Rambler, Hiawatha, the Blush, White, Yellow, Pink, and Crimson Ramblers, Bardou Job, the Penzance Briers, and all the rest of the sweet sisterhood of rosedom, there receive the attention which they so well deserve. The clematis may perhaps come next. Vigorous in growth, with large flowers brilliantly painted, it is a glorious plant. The little white Mountain clematis {montana) is very pretty for a house wall, and does not object to an easterly aspect ; it is beautiful, too, for rambling over a dead tree, which it will clothe in a sheet of snowy blossom in June. Growing quickly from 152 THE PERFECT GARDEN cuttings, and thriving on heavy soil, it is a most useful plant. The Traveller's Joy or Old Man's Beard {yitalbd) is a wilding, and one of the most attractive when, in late September, its white, fluffy masses coat the thorns and sloes in the hedgerows. It is among the florists' clematises, however, that we find the finest material. There we find Jackman's and other lovely forms. Botanists throw them into groups, as (i) coccinea, (2) florida, (3) Jackmanii, (4) lanuginosa, (5) patens, (6) viticella. For garden purposes grouping is only important as far as it affects pruning, and (omit- ting the coccinea class as the least important) we will throw all our varieties into two sets — (i) those which require to be pruned hard every year, and (2) those which only need thinning out when crowded, or trimmed when straggly. Clematises which need hard pruning. Jackmanii, violet blue. Lady Bovill, pale blue, Madame Edouard Andre, red. Clematises which only need thinning or trimming. Duchess of Edinburgh, double Lord Londesborough, mauve. white. Miss Bateman, white. Fair Rosamond, blush. The Queen, lavender. Lady Londesborough, silver. Planters can pick from these according to the colours which they like best, but they ought to try and find room for Jackmanii, Madame Edouard Andr6, and the Queen. It is common for Jackmanii lovers to complain that they cannot get the plant to start. It dies off, they say, instead of growing. Nine times out of ten this is because they plant late in spring in a hot, dry position, I BEAUTY OF CLIMBERS, ETC 153 and do not cut back. It ought to be planted by the end of March, in deeply-trenched, manured soil, and directly it is put in it ought to be cut close to the ground. A plant rarely fails when treated in this appar- ently barbarous way. Honeysuckles are less brilliant than clematises, and in the main are sober, inconspicuous flowers ; but they are rightly loved for their delicious perfume, and we must not forget the bright fruits of some. Their botanical names are a little trying. Thus, our deli- cious old wilding the woodbine is lonicera periclyniemun, and two of the best honeysuckles that we have are respectively lonicera japonica aureo- reticulata and lonicera japonica flexuosa. The former is the pretty variety with golden-netted leaves, and the latter (one of the sweetest and best) is the plant listed by the nurseryman as flexuosa or brachypoda. The scarlet trumpet honeysuckle of the florists is lonicera senipervirens. The sweet white winter honeysuckle is lonicera fragrantissima. We can only tolerate such names as these when we realise that they are necessary for purposes of distinction. Of course, we can write to our nurseryman and order " a honeysuckle" — just that and no more; but the odds are that we shall not get out of it so easily, for he will very likely write back, and, hurling fearful names at us, "respectfully beg to ask" which particular one we want. It is sad that botanists' names cannot be evaded in gardening, but it really seems impossible. The Ivy {hedera helix oi botanists) has many varieties, some with large leaves, others with small ; some plain, others variegated. All these have distinctive names. The Irish Ivy, with its large, green, five-lobed leaves, is canariensis. The one with immense, heart-shaped leaves is rcegneriana. A fine variety, which is bronzy 154 THE PERFECT GARDEN in summer and purple in winter, is donerailensis. A pretty variety, which has green leaves margined with white, is rhonibea, and another, with silvery edges, is variegata. These are a few of the best for walls. The Tree ivies are shrubby in habit. The jasmine is a pretty, free-fiowering, fragrant climber. The common species, with its sweet, white flowers, is called occidentale by botanists ; there is a form of it with yellow leaves. The yellow winter jasmine, which blooms while leafless in mild spells throughout the winter, is also well known. The trop