Cilass__X "^^iiL OR, THE %/(; ^^^ivrsiCA?^'^^^ 70 2- Guide Book to FURNISHING THE MOST ACCDRATK AND DETAILED THE VARIED ELEMENTS OF WEALTH IN ALABAMA, WHETHER OF MINE, FIELD, OR FOREST, TOGETHER WITH CAREFULLY PRE- PARED MAPS AND CHARTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE NUMEROUS ADVANTAGES POS- SESSED BY THE STATE. Rev. B. IT-. RILEY, 33. 33. Adopted by the State by an Act Approved February 28, 1887. TI3:iR33 E33ITI01Sr CAREFULLY REVISED TO DATE, MONTGOMERY, ALA.: THE brown PRINTING CO., STATE PRINTERS AND BINDERS. 1893. By trapfrfter FEB 131908 t PREFACE. <^ (|§|1LABAMA as it is, or the Immigrant's and Capitalists' ^1p Guide Book to Alabama, undertakes to meet a demand which ^^^^ has long existed. Valuable works upon the varied resources the State have been published, but they have not met the popular of demand for a systematic treatise, and one written in the language common to the people. Either these works have been restricted in their treatment, or they have so abounded in technical terms, that, irrespective of the importance of the matter which they have contained, the manner of conveying it has generally been such as to make it of little interest to the average reader. It has been the aim of the author of this little work to write for the people, .and to clothe every subject touched upon in such language as to make it not only interesting, but a matter of profit to the average reader. Hence, f\\\ technical terms have been eschewed. It is believed that the learned who may chance to read the book will not object to this, while the man unfamiliar with scientific phraseology will appre- ciate it. The volume is the result of much labor, extending through several years. To secure the most authentic information, required an extensive correspondence with reliable citizens in every county in the State, and involved much travel and research on the part of the writer. Attention is directed to the systematic arrangement of the volume. The State is divided into four grand divisions, viz: The Cereal, Mineral, Cotton and Timber Belts. A general description of the prevailing characteristics of each belt is given, and that is fol- lowed by a description of each county in the following order: Date of formation, after whom or what named, population in 1870 and 1880, number of whites and blacks, area, number of acres of tilled land, how divided among the products, production of cotton, topography of the county, its fruits, minerals, timbers, streams, ALABAMA AS IT IS. chief towns, railroads (finished or projected), schools, churches, prices of laud, and number of acres of Government lands. Special attention has been given the places of interest and cen- ters of population in the State. Their advantages have been clearly pointed out, and whatever facilities they possess for future development have been fairly indicated. Important chapters have been added upon the river ways, healthfulness,. and educational system of Alabama. The two last named items are matters of important inquiry to the seekers of homes. They aie entirely authentic, the chapter upon The Health of Alabama having been prepared by R. D. Webb, M. D., a native Alabamian, a gentleman of scientific research and an ex-president of the State Medical Association. The one upon The Educational System of Alabama was prepared by the recent Superintendent of Education of the State, Hon. Solomon Palmer. The work throughout has been done with the most scrupulous and painstaking care. There has been no straining after facts, no guesswork, and no disposition to conceal tha. disadvantages of any section. The author begs to acknowledge his indebtedness to the latest Manual and Statistical Register of Hon. Joseph Hodgson ; The Handbook of Alabama, by Saffold Berney, Esq. ; The Geological Survey of Dr. Eugene A. Smith, State Geologist; and The Survey of the Warrior Coalfield, by Prof. Henry McCul- ley. Assistant State Geologist. Indebtedness is also acknowledged to the many gentlemen who, from the different counties, replied with promptness to applica- tions for information and for numerous expressions of encourage- ment while the work was being prosecuted. Arduous and protracted as the labor has been, it has been attended with the hope that it might contribute to the development of the resources of Alabama. Marred, as it doubtless is by defects, the little volume is sent upon the mission foi- which it was designed — that of guiding capitalists and seekers of homes to the investigation of the claims of Alabama. ALABAMA AS IT IS. j^^'N OLD tradition represents an Indian warrior as i having grown weary of the bloody strifes of some ^eastern region, and as having resolved to seek a more 'M^quiet abode in the far-off land toward the setting sun. ^^ Making his way over swollen rivers and through -^ tangled forests, he came at length to the fertile lands and clear streams of Alabama. Charmed by the tokens of plentitude and the romantic scenery, pictured in the blooming valleys, the limpid streams, the boundless plains, and the high mountains, he resolutely struck his spear into the earth, saying, "Alabama!" which, being interpreted, is said to mean, "Here we rest." Out of the mists of this favorite tradition there looms the truth of Alabama's greatness — her inexhaustible resources of soil and mine, of field and forest, her balmy climate, her wonderful healthfulness, and her sweeps of extended beauty. It may be safely said that no portion of the globe, of the same compass, affords a greater diversity of resources, mineral, agri- cultural, horticultural and otherwise, and to a greater extent, than that embraced within the limits of Alabama. Her soils have never refused to yield any production known to the Temperate Zone, while along the shores which front the warm waters of the Gulf many tropical fruits are grown with the greatest readiness. And such is the capability of the soils that they yield, usually, in vast abundance, and sometimes even to the most indolent culture. The developments which have been going on for a period of years in the mineral distiicts of Alabama have established the fact that, with respect to certain ores, she leads the other States of the Union, This is most notably true respecting her vast iron 6 ALABAMA AS IT IS. deposits. Through the agency of capital and skill the State has come rapidly to the front as a great manufacturing centre. Side by side lie her fields of coal and her domains of iron. Thus, it will be seen, that the State has been most liberally endowed by Nature'with all the conditions favorable to manafacture and agri- culture. The profusion of her elements for the manufactory is simply marvelous, and her cotton fields have won a distinction that is world-wide. The staple grown upon Alabama cotton fields commands a dominant price in the markets of the world. Throughout the entire length of the territory, from the utmost northern limits to the waters of the Mexican Gulf, there are found the resources of a great commonwealth. The magnificent wheat and corn valleys that lie along the base of the Cumberlands, or that follow the windings of the Tennessee; the high hills, with their treasures of ore; the orchards of deli- cious fruit; the plains of snowy cotton; the illimitable forests of giant timber, which have, for so many years, contributed to the lumber markets of the globe, and the groves of orange that dot her southern shores — all these attest the greatness of Alabama's resources. POSITION. Alabama lies one-fourth the way aroaud the globe west from Paris, France, and is in the same latitude as Northern Africa, Palestine, Central China, and Southern Japan. OUTLINE. The boundaries of Alabama may be described in the following manner : Beginning where the parallel of thirty- one degrees north latitude crosses the Perdido river; thence eastward with this parallel to the west bank of the Chattahooche river; thence northward along the west bank of the last named river to the great bend, next above the mouth of Uchee creek, in Kussell county; thence in a direct line toward the town of Nickajack, on the Ten- nessee river, to the parallel of thirty-five degrees north latitude; thence west along this parallel, to its second intersection with the thread, or middle line, of the Tennessee river ; thence up the river to the mouth of Big Bear creek, thence in a line to a point on Buckatunna Creek, where the old Choctaw boundary-line inter- ALABAMA AS IT IS. sects the same; thence in a line to a point on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, ten miles east from the mouth of the Pascagoula river ; thence eastward along said coast, and embracing all islands within eighteen miles of the shore, to the mouth of the Perdido river; thence up the thread of this stream to the point of begin- ning. AREA. The State has an area of 50,722 square miles, which renders it larger than New York, Rhode Island, and Delaware combined. When measured from east to west, the general width of the State is 175 miles, while its estimated length from north to south is 275 miles. POPULATION. The increase of population has been so rapid within the last few years that it is difficult to state just now what it is. Accord- iug to the census of 1880, it was 1,262,505. It will scarcely fall short of one and one-half millions now. GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. The termination of the Appalachian mountain chain in Northern Alabama renders that portion of the State rough and rugged, but there are no mountains of any considerable height. The eleva- tions rarely exceed 2,000 feet above the sea level. In Central Alabama there are found prevailing the foothills of these northern ranges, together with the rolling prairies, and the upper belt of the pine barrens. In the Southern portion of the State there is a gentle slope along a sandy coast plain to the waters of the Gulf. EXTENT OF SEA-COAST. Alabama has about sixty miles of sea-coast. SOILS. The soils of this State are of every possible variety, ranging, in point of fertility, from the thinnest sandy land to the richest alluvial. Along the sand mountains in the north, as well as along the southern shore, the soils are thin, but by no means sterile, 8 ALABAMA AS IT IS. while the famous Tennessee valley and the canebrake regions of Central and Southern Alabama haye depths of marvelous fertility. CLIMATE. Favored in many respects, Alabama is, perhaps, most highly favored in her superb climate. Such is the temperature of the State that the extremes of heat and cold never prevail. The influence of the mountains in the northern end of the State tones into blandness the heat of summer, while for many miles inland, the cool breezes of the waters of the Gulf fan away the sultry breath of summertide. Snow but seldom falls, and only thin coat- ings of ice are seen. The exceptions to this statement are ex- ceedingly rare. The streams of Alabama are not frozen over. Flowers blossom, fruits ripen, and vegetables prevail almost the year round. The mean annual temperature of the State is sixty- one degrees; the mercury but rarely ranges above ninety-five degrees even in July — the hottest month of the year. During the heated term the mercury ranges from sixty degrees to one hundred and four degrees; and during the cold season, from eighteen degrees to eighty-two degrees. The question is frequently asked by Europeans and Northern- ers, " Can white men labor under a summer's sun in the States of the South?" The answer is found in the fact that thousands of white men do labor beneath the suns of the South, even as far down as Florida. And in addition to this, it may be said that white men labor with remarkable success in midsummer in the Northern States, where the heat is greater, and the days longer; and what is there to prevent them laboring in the South, where there is less heat, and the days are shorter, and the nights of more refreshing coolness. Observations on temperature, made by scientists since 1819, have been preserved in the Smithsonian Institution, and from time to time published. Of late years, these reports have been transmitted by its secretary to the Agri- cultural Bureau, and have been embodied in its report. From an examination of these tables, and a careful comparison, it will be seen that the climate is more favorable for the laboring man in the South than in the North. True, the Northern summer is short — much shorter than in the South — but it is much hotter ALABAMA AS IT IS. 9 while it lasts. In one of his reports, Professor Henry, of the Smithsonian Institution, states this fact, in the following way: "For, though there is absolutely more heat in the latitude of New Orleans, during the year, than at Madison, Wisconsin, yet there is more heat received at this latter place during the three months of midsummer than in the same time at the former place." Of the whole number of laborers now employed in the South in the tillage of cotton, it is estimated that fully one-fourth are white men. NATUKAL DIVISIONS. So marked are the differences between the several sections of the State, that it is susceptible of four grand divisions, each of which possesses a dominating characteristic. These sections will be called the Cereal, Mineral, Cotton, and Timber Belts of Alabama. THE CEEEAL BELT. This section extends across the northern boundary of the State from east to west, and embraces the famous Valley of the Tennes- see and its tributaries. It comprises eight counties, viz: Lauder- dale, Limestone, Madison, Jackson, Marshall, Morgan, Lawrence, and Colbert. The general surface of this region is even, but occasional projections of the Cumberland spurs break the prevail- ing uniformity. The soil is quite fertile, being usually of a reddish cast. This reddish hue in the soil is due to the mixture of iron in the sandstone. AVhile this section is distinguished as the Cereal Belt because of its marvelous yield of grain and grasses, still these are not the exclusive productions of the counties which have already been mentioned under this head. For many years cotton has been extensively raised upon these famous red lands, and is to-day rivaling the cereals in its pro- duction. But cereals thrive in this tier of counties in the richest profusion, and, as a consequence, the raising of stock is quite easy and profitable. Corn, wheat, oats, barley and rye are the chief productions of the Cereal Belt. The hardier fruits grow here to great perfection. Pears, apples, peaches and grapes are produced in great abundance every year. For several years past 10 ALABAMA AS IT IS. there has been a growiug disposition on the part of farmers of this section to devote more time to stock-raising. This has neces- sarily induced the production of clovers and grasses, and thus there has sprung up a new b?*anch of industry. The improve- ment of breeds and the enlargement of herds are on the increase from year to year. THE TENNESSEE VALLEY. i^^pHE GREAT Valley of the Tennessee sweeps directly through iSSj^the cereal section. This valley is, by odds, the most charm- 1%i^ing region in all the State. So impressed was a competent and impartial judge with its grandeur that he pronounced it the most love!}' region upon which his eyes had ever rested. He had seen all the splendid regions of land whose fertility and beauty had made them famous throughout the United States ; he had beheld the plains of Texas, when clad in their vernal loveliness; the plains of Illinois, the bluegrass regions of Kentucky, the Miami Valley of Ohio, the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, the Genesee Valley of New York, and yet he regarded tbe beautiful Valley of the Tennessee the loveliest of all. It is divided in twain by the magnificent river of the same name, and extends the distance of well nigh 200 miles. Its average width is about twenty miles- It reaches from Georgia on the east to Mississippi on the west. In its native fertility, its soil is unsurpassed. It is a goodly land, well watered with springs and fountains and flashing streams^ which gush out in icy coldness from beneath the bills and moun- tains. It is walled in by mountain ranges, both on the north and south, which protect it alike from the cold blasts of winter and the hot waves of summer. Along the south side of the valley and within twenty-five miles of the Tennessee River, lies the famous Warrior coalfield. Skirting the northern edge of this coalfield, in the foothills of the mountains, are to be found some of the most magnificent developments of iron ore known to the State. And along the bosom of the valley itself are to be found limestone of almost every conceivable variety, many of them be- ing of the purest quality. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 11 On the northern edge of the valley, near its eastern termination in "Walker county, are to be found all those beds of coal which are developed upon the plateaus of the Cumberland Mountains in Tennessee. In the mountains, on the opposite side of the valley, are to be found the coal measures of the Warrior coal field. At the experimental station of the Agricultural and Mechanical College of Alabama, established in North Alabama some years ago in order to test the capabilities of the soil and illustrate the productiveness of different crops, it was fully demonstrated that clover and timothy, herd, orchard and blue grass, could be quite as successfully grown in this section of Alabama as in the most favored regions of Kentucky. This, together with the sponta- neity with which wild grasses and clovers spring and thrive, fully establish the fact that it is a region admirably adapted to stock raising. Near the town ol Courtland, in Lawrence county, is to be seen the splendid residence of Colonel Saunders, who has one of the most magnificent vineyards on the continent. It embraces almost every variety of grape known to American fruit growers, and the development attained by the fruit is perfect. Near the western terminus of the valley is to be found a bed of oolitic limestone, which is extensively used in Memphis for ornamental marble work. From the fragments is manufactured first-class lime, which is shipped to the principal cities along the Mississippi River. Upon the uncleared lands in the valley, and along the banks of the Tennessee River and its tributaries, as well as along the slopes of the neighboring mountains and foothills, are to be found magnificent forests of timber, comprising the noblest speci- mens of oak, walnut, poplar, hickory, and indeed all of the hard woods; while the undergrowth abounds in dogwood and pawpaw. Near the western end of the valley, on its southern side and that section which is now penetrated by the new railroad from Shefiield to Birmingham, are to be found some of the most exten- sive beds of brown iron ore of the purest quality. Thus, in this brief sketch, will be seen an aggregation of the advantages possessed by the famous Valley of the Tennessee. 12 ALABAMA AS IT IS. Let US now turn our attention directly to the counties of the Cereal Belt, every one of which is found in the Valley of the Tennessee. LAUDEEDALE COUNTY. ^IJ^AUDERDALE county is situated in the northwestern corner ^Iflfe of Alabama, and is ioined on two sides by the States of ^1^^ Mississippi and Tennessee. It was one of the first sections of Alabama settled by the whites, and was organized as a county before the State was constituted. It was established in 1818, and named for the famous Indian fighter, Col. Lauderdale, of Tennessee. As has been fully indicated by the description given of the Ten- nessee Valley, Lauderdale is located in one of the most fertile regions in the State. It has an area of about seven hundred square miles. Population in 1880, 21,035; population in 1890, 23,739; white, 16,697; colored, 7,092. Tilled Land — Area planted in cotton, 25,082 acres; in corn, 39,239 acres; in oats, 2,995 acres; in wheat, 729 acres; in rye, 42 acres; in tobacco, 1 acre; cotton production, 5,156 bales. Lauderdale has a diversity of soil, as is abundantly indicated in the variety of crops grown. In the northern portion of the county the surface is somewhat more uneven than is that in the southern end. The prevailing sc il in the northern portion is of a grayish hue, but yields quite readily. In the south the lands are reddish in character. This is due to the presence of iron. These lands are quite fertile, and though some of them have been in cultivation seventy-five years, they are still productive without the aid of fertilizers. West of Florence, in a great bend of the Tennessee River, is a large body of valley land, known as the Colbert Reservation. It is overspread in different directions by some of the finest farms found in this section of Alabama. These valley lands, when fresh, will produce as much as one thousand pounds of seed cotton to the acre. The most of the cotton grown in the county is raised upon the red valley lands, and the product per acre is considerably above the average. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 13 The chief crops of the county are cotton, corn, wheat, oats, sor- ghum, and sweet potatoes. Apples and peaches are grown in vast quantities in the orchards. These are the chief fruits, though other fruits are grown with success when they receive proper attention. This is especially true of the grape. Wild fruits such as hickoryuuts and berries grow in large quantities. At St. Florian, six miles north of Florence, a flourishing Ger- man colony illustrates admirably the adaptability of the county to the purposes of the fruit grower and truck farmer. The colony contains several hundred persons. Few of their holdings exceed fifty or eighty acres. But by a system of intensive farming they make these to blossom and fruit like a garden. There is no more worthy or thrifty population to be found in Alabama than these Germans. At this point the grape is found in perfection. Large quantities of wine, of excellent quality, is made every season. The chief pursuits of the people are farming, stock-raising, and manufacturing, to all of which the county is admirably adapted. For many years, the single pursuit was that of planting; but the superb water-power of the county, and the abundant fuel, sug- gested the establishment of manufactories long before the begin- ning of the war. Cotton and wool factories were accordingly established, as well as manufactories of leather. At this period Lauderdale was, perhaps, in advance of any other portion of the State in its manufactories. It is believed to be the pioneer county in establishing manufacturing interests. But these industries perished amid the ravages of war, and have been but partially resuscitated. The Cypress Mills, near Florence, have been partially rebuilt, and a cotton factory has been estab- lished on Cypress Creek, and is now being successfully operated by water. There is a large and flourishiog corn and flour mill in the town of Florence. The county is abundantly supplied with perpetual streams of water. Shoal, Cypress, Blue Water, Bluff and Second Creeks flow through the county from the north. Skirting the southwestern boundary of the county is Elk river. Besides these, there are many bold mountain springs, containing both limestone and freestone water. There are springs in several parts of the county that have medicinal properties, the most noted 14 ALABAMA AS IT IS. of these being Bailey's Springs, but a short distance from the town of Florence; though Taylor's Springs have a local reputation. In every part of the county are to be found local industries, such as gins, and grist and saw mills. There are forests of valuable timber in every part of Lauder- dale. These comprise several varieties of oak, poplar, chestnut, beech, hickory, walnut, cherry, and short-leaf pine. The forests, in many places, are heavily wooded with these valuable timbers. Facilities for transportation of products to market are already good, but are destined to be greatly increased at no remote period. A railroad unites Florence, the county- seat, with the Memphis & Charleston Railroad at Tuscumbia. Packets ply the year around on the Tennessee River between Florence and Cincinnati, St. Louis, Louisville and Evansville. The completion of the Muscle Shoals Canal in 1892, by the Government, opened the upper Tennessee for hundreds of miles. Recognizing the importance of this location, railroad men are projecting different lines and sys- tems in this direction. The Nashville & Florence Railroad was built from Columbia, Tennessee, to Florence, Alabama, in 189U. This is part of the Louisville & Nashville system. Another im- portant line is expected soon to be in active operation between Clarksville, Tennessee, and Florence. When this and other per- fected lines shall have reached completion, Lauderdale county will possess facilities for transportation equal to' those of any other county. The educational advantages of the county are superior. In the town of Florence, there are two schools of a high grade — the State Normal College for which there is an adequate annual appro- priation, and the Synodical Female College. Both of these insti- tutions of learning have superior faculties, and the schools are liberally patronized. Throughout the entire county there are good local schools, affording all the educational facilities necessary for common school instruction. These schools are supported by all the moral influence that comes of long established and well- regulated society. The people are law-abiding and thrifty, and the tone of society is elevating. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 15 In the northei'D portioQ of the county, adjoiaing the State Ol Tennessee, as well as in the western portion of the county, are to be found excellent deposits of iron ore. The extent of the pre- valence of this ore is not known, as it has been only partially de- veloped. In the southwestern part of Lauderdale is a valuable cave of saltpetre. Indications of petroleum and natural gas abound. At this writing, a strong company is erecting machinery in the northern part of the county, preparatory to sinking several wells. This work is in the hands of experts, from the oil and gas districts of Pennsylvania. It is located upon Elk River. The chief towns of the county are Florence, the county-seat, — with a population of (),000 — Lexington, R )dgersville and Waterloo. FLORENCE excels all other places for beauty of location. One hundred and fifty feet above high water, on a gently rolling plateau sloping toward the river, excellent drainage, pure and salubrious atmos- phere, springs of pure ivater on every side; the view in every direction is grand and picturesque, with the magnificent Tennessee lliver flowing at its base, navigable for the largest class of steam- boats, with packet lines to St. Louis, Cincinnati, Evansville, and Paducah. Through the Muscle Shoals Canal now open communi- cation is had by boat with Chattanooga and Knoxville. There is no healthier spot in all the land. The records show a total exemption from malarious diseases. Indeed, the mild tem- ]>erature, pure air and water, and good society, make Florence a desirable resort, both summer and winter, from the extreme heat of the South and the rigorous cold of the North. 'Ihe Memphis & Charleston, Sheffield & Birmingham, and Nashville & Florence railroads, with their connection, atford (^uick and direct communication with every part of the country, and when several other railroads now projected, and some in course of construction are completed, Florence, on the Tennessee iliver, must become a great distributing point of the commerce of the South. The State Normal College, Florence Synodical Female College, and Mars Hill Academy, besides the public and private schools. 16 ALABAMA AS IT IS. afford every facility for educating the white children, and there are two excellent schools for colored children, taught by their own people. The State Normal College, above referred to, is the oldest and strongest of the State's institutions for the training of teachers. Established in 1873, from the first it took high rank. Its annual attendance is some 300 or over. Its graduates enjoy an enviable reputation throughout the State. Kecognizing the merits of this institution, the trustees of the Peabody Education Fund liberally supplement the annual appropriation made by the State. Methodist, Presbyterian, Baptist, Episcopal, Catholic and Christian denominations have churches, or places of worship where regular services are held. The Cumberland Presbyterians are preparing to build a church. In no town can greater har- mony or better Christian feeling be found than among the churches of Florence. The State, county and corporation taxes are low. The county and town owe no debts, and generally Lave a surplus in the treasury. Manufacturing companies are exempt from city taxes for a period of years. Within twenty miles north of Florence are immense beds of brown hematite iron ore, which yield from 54 to 60 per cent, of metal. The phosphorus in this ore is so little that the best experts in iron-making say by the Bessemer process it can be converted into steel from the furnace at a cost of $3.00 less than steel can be made at any furnace in the Ohio Yalley. Steel nails can be made at twenty -five cents less cost, per keg, than at Wheeling, or any other of the great nail factories in Ohio or Pennsylvania. The Nashville & Florence Eailroad, just com- pleted, connects Florence with these ore beds. The ore at Birmingham is the red variety, and they send twenty miles north of Florence to St. Joe for the brown ore to mix with the red to produce a better grade of metal, but the brown ore makes a fine grade of metal without mixing. The "Muscle Shoals" Canal, above Florence on the river, was comp ated in 1892. This will give Florence direct communication also with the steel-making ores of East Tennessee and the immense coal fields below Chattanooga on the river, containing coal in veins ALABAMA AS IT IS, " 17 from thirty to sixty inches in thickness, thus furnishing coal and iron almost without limit to supply the furnaces, rolling mills, and other industries locating there. In the fierce competition which has now commenced in the pro- duction of cheap iron, Florence, on the Tennessee, by virtue of her proximity to other ores not found in other localities, possesses advantages which cannot be equaled. The Tennessee River is the basal liue of the future iron industries centering in the coal and iron region which it pene- trates, giving the cheapest transportation and abundant water supply for steam manufacturing. Florence, owing to her remark- able geographical location, will necessarily concentrate the bulk of the industries along the line of this great waterway, the Ohio, Tennessee, and Mississippi Valleys, opening up an immense ter- ritory for the exportation of the manufactured products and im- portation in exchange. We, therefore, submit to a candid public these incontrovertible facts : 1. Iron can be made more cheaply and profitably in Alabama than elsewhere in the United States. 2. Pig iron can be manufactured at Florence at from one to two dollars less cost per ton than at any other point in the State. 3. Iron can be transported to St. Louis from Florence at one dollar per ton, or less. 4. Limestone, in exhaustible quantities, is found at Florence. 5. It requires two to three tons of red hematite to produce one ton of pig metal. One and one-half tons of brown hematite yield one ton pig. 6. Florence is nearer by rail to all parts of Alabama, Georgia, Eastern Mississippi, South Carolina, and Florida, and consid- erable part of East Tennessee, than any point on the Tennessee River. By means of short lines of railroad Florence is destined to become the supply depot — the distributing point for western prodnr^e — for all that vast area of country, and her water trans- portation to the Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio Valleys guarantees cheap transportation at all times to the principal markets of the country. 18 ALABAMA AS IT IS. The coal fields of Alabama cover an area of 5,000 square miles, and are south of Florence, within easy reach. They are now reached by the Shefl&eld & Birmingham, the Louisville & Nash- ville, and the Mobile & Ohio Railroads. In a short time another railroad will be built direct from Florence through the entire Warrior coal measures. Coal is also obtained from East Ten- nessee by the Memphis & Charleston Railroad and in barges by the river. Another source of supply is by the Louisville & Nash- ville from the Kentucky mines. To the south of Florence, in AValker county, are the vast War- rior coal fields. To one unacquainted with the geology of Alabama a true description of the quality and vast extent of these coal fields would sound like the wild dream of fancy. Mark this: In his last annual report owr State Geologist says: "Allowing 1,000,000 tons of coal per square mile for every foot in thickness, the sum total of coal in the workable seams within Walker county is, according to the above estimate, about 10,600,- 000,000 tons, which would form a solid block of coal ten miles long by ten miles wide by one hundred feet high. Granting, for various reasons, one-halt of this coal of the workable seams of Walker county is not available, which is a most liberal discount for every imaginable cause, there will still remain 5,300,000,000 tons of mineable coal, which, with a daily output of 5,000 tons, cannot be exhausted in 3,000 years. The workable coal of Walker county may, therefore, be said to be practically inexhaustible so far as we are concerned. As a class these coals are bituminous coals, and they burn freely and are well suited for gas-making." So much for Florence as a theoretical seat of iron manufactory. Now for the facts: The Cotton & Iron Co., a Philadelphia cor- poration, has now in operation one of the largest and most com- plete blast furnaces in the South. The daily output is about 150 tons, that grades Nos. 1 and 2 foundry. Sometime ago a Pitts- burgh paper stated that this furnace was making pig at a cost of $8.65 per ton, which is probably approximately correct. The North Alabama furnace has been leased to the Spathite Iron Co., a Nashville corporation. This company proposes to use the ores found in certain beds near the northern boundary of the county, known as Spathite ores. These ores contain a suffi- ALABAMA AS IT IS. 19 cient quantity of carbonates to flux them, in addition to the ores to be combined with them. This plant has been put in first-class condition, and will go into blast by the 1st o£ April. The country north of Florence, in Wayne and Lawrence coun- ties, Tennessee, is practically in its primeval state so far as the timber is concerned. Immense poplar, white oak, maple, hickory, pine, cherry, walnut, and chestnut-oak trees cover the hills and valleys, and can be had at very low figures. Immense forests of chestnut-oak in the mountain counties, con- tiguous to the railroads, can be purchased at from $2 to $3 per acre. Quarries of beautiful marble are found in a few miles, of Flor- ence in close proximity to the railroad. Building stone, limestone and sandstone are found all over the country. The great variety of pure clay suitable for making firebrick, earthenware, pottery, tableware, building brick, tiling, etc., can be found in close proximity. In no country do the lands give to the intelligent and indus- trious farmer a more sure and profitable return for the labor bestowed. There is always a good average crop — never an en- tire failure. The lands are adapted to cotton, corn, tobacco, oats and other small grain, and every variety of grasses. Springs of water and clear creeks with gravel bottoms can be found upon almost every farm. Lands are cheap. Improved farms can be bought at $8 to $20 per acre. The vast area of open lands north of Florence afford excel- lent grazing for cattle and sheep for nine months of the year. The country roads are good and firm, and kept in good con- dition. The people are hospitable and kind. Northern people will meet with no jealousies or indignities. The animosities of the war are all buried and nearly forgotten. Yery little of politics are ever mentioned, and no man is ostracised because of his political sentiments. A man is esteemed according to his moral, intellectual and industrial worth — not for his political sentiments. Within the last few years there have been located in Florence — Three saw mills; four brick yards; water-works; one electric light; one pump factory; three planing mills; one steam laundry. 20 ALABAMA AS IT IS. one street railroad; one handle factory; one cotton compress; one furniture factory; one large stove foundry; one shoe and boot factory; one cracker and candy factory; one building and loan association; three lumber and contracting companies; one wooden dish factory (capacity, 75,000 daily). The Oheny Cotton Mills recently located, are now in process of construction. This company has a capital stock of $200,000, and will operate about 15,000 spindles. The Memphis & Charleston R. R. Co. is replacing the wooden bridge with a massive iron structure, which will be completed during the year. Though the population is rapidly increasing with the location of manufacturing there, and the attraction of capital and enter- prise to the place, values of real estate are low, and rich returns will surely follow the investment of capital there now. Houses are in demand, and those built for rental are rented before com- pleted. Good lots can be had at $5 and $10 per front foot. All desiring to move South are invited to come and investi- gate. The Florence Land, Mining and Manufacturing Company will take pleasure in answering fully all letters of inquiry, but a personal visit and full inspection of the advantages and resources of the place are asked, and is much more satisfactory, and a cordial welcome will be extended to all who come, and they will be shown around and given every means of satisfying themselves. In the selection of a business location a pleasant home is also desirable, and no place in the South offers more pleasure and comfort in this respect than Florence, with her warm-hearted, hospitable people, a society not chaotic, but already settled, an educational center, churches already established, abundance of pure water, wide streets, with beautiful shade trees and comfort- able and attractive houses, it presents the picture of a charming and comfortable home place, whose every feature speaks welcome to the stranger, and offers him the restful comforts which are so necessary to an active and busy life. The Florence Railroad and Improvement Company offer liberal inducements and free sites to industrial enterprises to locate in Florence. They invite correspondence. With water power from the hills and mountains, with a climate, the race of which can ALABAMA AS IT IS. 21 not be excelled, even in midsummer, with superior society and schools, Lauderdale offers rare advantages to those seeking homes. Lands may be purchased in the county at prices ranging from $5 to $15 per acre. There are 16,000 acres of Government land in Lauderdale county. LIMESTONE COUNTY. ^feHIS COUNTY lies directly north of the Tennessee Eiver. 10i& It is one of the first counties formed in the State, having ^^^ been created while Alabama was yet a territory. Its area comprises 500 square miles. Population in 1880, 21,600, population in 1890, 21,201. White, 12,198; colored, 9,003. Tilled land, 96,914 acres. Area planted in cotton, 51,989 acres ; in corn, 39,970 acres; in oats, 2,326 acres; in wheat, 1,084 acres; in rye 5 acres; in tobacco, 25 acres; in sweet potatoes, 515 acres. Cotton Production — 8,093 bales. Limestone has all the varieties of soil which belong to the Tennessee Yalley. The southern portion of the county exceeds in fertility that of the northern. The southern has a more uniform surface, and is capitally adapted to the growth of all the cereals. The lands in this section are almost entirely cleared, and are in a fine state of cultivation. The bottom lands which skirt the numerous streams are exceediugly fertile. Notwithstandiug Limestone has long been recognized as one of the chief cereal counties of the State, and still is, the farmers are turning their attention more every year to the production of cotton. In 1880 the county produced 15,724 bales. Indeed, the conclusion has been reached that the county is as well suited to the growth of cotton as to that of corn. Since the close of the war and the emancipation of the slnves, about one-tenth of the land has been abandoned. It is easily re- claimed, however, and it is as fruitful as formerly. The po( rest land in Limestone is susceptible of the highest degree of fertili- zation. 22 ALABAMA AS IT IS. More and more attention is being turned to stock raising. The grasses usually grown for stock are produced here in the greatest perfection, and the most sanguine expectations of stock- raisers have been realized. The finest pasture lands can be had here, the value of ^ which is greatly enhanced by the multitude of streams which penetrate every part of the county. Great encour- agement has been given stock-raisers, year by year, to improve the character of their breeds. Except upon the lowlands and near the rivers, the county is wonderfully healthy, and along the ridges adjoining these basins excellent places of residence can be had. Formerly these ridges were dwelling places of the wealthiest farmers in the county, while they cultivated the lands in the bottoms. Along these knolls, as almost in every part of the county, fine water is found, together with a salubrious climate. In many parts of the county are forests of timber in which are found hickory, poplar, chestnut, red and white oak, beech, maple, red and white gum, ash, walnut and cherry. Along the southern border of the county runs the Tennessee River, several of the large tributaries of which penetrate the ter- ritory of Limestone. Elk River flows through the northwest, and at certain seasons is navigable for light crafts. This stream is of vast local advantage since the obstructions have been removed from the Tennessee. Big, Poplar, Round Island, Swan, Piney, Limestone and Beaver Dam Creeks streak the county in every section with waters of perpetual flow. These are reinforced by many large springs in the mountain and hill region. Mineral springs also exist, and are said to be equal to any in the State. The streams abound in remarkably fine fish, vast quantities of which are caught every year. No great public industries have as yet been established, but a number are in contemplation, both in Athens and Rowland, on the Louisville & Nashville Railroad. Energy, skill, and capital are needed to make Limestone what it is by nature fitted to become — a great manufacturing as well as an agricultural region. As yet but little attention has been given the mineral products of Limestone. Valuable specimens of lead have been discovered in the Elk River hills. In some portions of the country there ALABAMA AS IT IS. 23 have been rliscovered outcroppings of iron ore, as well as fine specimens of coal. Slate has been found to exist in vast quan- tities, though it has failed thus far to attract public attention. Silver ore has also been discovered, but it is not known to what extent it exists. The county is highly favored in its facilities for transportation. It is divided in twain from north to south by the great Louisville and Nashville Railroad, which brings it into easy and rapid com- munication with New Orleans on the south and the great cities of the West on the north. Fruits grown along these valleys find a ready market in the cities of the Northwest, into commercial relations with which this section is brought by means of its excellent railroad facilities. Along the southern portion of the county runs the Memphis & Charleston Railroad, which affords a competing line to the pro- ducers of the county. The social advantages of Limestone are those which belong to the best regulated society of the South. The people are hospi- table and are prompted by a most generous disposition. Schools of varying grades exist in different parts of the county. In Athens, the county-seat, which has a population of about 1,200, there are several schools of high grade, including a State agri- cultural school. Churches, usually of the Methodist, Presbyterian and Baptist denominations, prevail. The other chief towns are Mooresville, Elkmont and Rowland. The last named point is a new town with promising importance. Lands may be purchased iu some sections for ^5 per acre; in others they will cost much more, being dependent upon the fertility and location. Limestone contains within its territory 5,000 acres of land be- longing to the general government. NORTH ALABAMA AGRICULTURAL SCHOOL. This college is located in the corporate limits of Athens. The grounds consist of the college grounds and the experiment farm ; the former contains about thirteen acres, six of which is sward covered with a beautiful grove of original growth, inclosed with 24 ALABAMA AS IT IS. a hedge of osage orange, in midst of whicli the college building stands. The remaining seven acres are devoted to pasture and garden for the use of boarding department. The experiment farm is less than a half mile distant from the college. It comprises one hundred and fifty acres, one hun- dred and twenty-five of which are cleared and in cultivation. The buildings are located on the college grounds, exclusive of stables and outhouses, are seven in number; of these the prin- cipal building is a two-story brick, forty-five by eighty-six feet, divided into assembly and recitation rooms, and devoted exclu- sively to the purpose of instruction. The main building of the boarding department is a large two-story residence, occupied by the president and his family, members of the faculty, and board- ing students. The remaining five buildings include the presi- dent's oflSce and dormitories for boarders. On the experiment farm are additional buildings, consisting of a four-room dwelling, with outhouses and a commodious, well- constructed barn and stable forty feet square. The value of the property belonging to the college and station is $15,000. The school was opened four years ago, and was under the control of two presidents prior to the present session. Prof. M. K. Clements was elected president of the school in April, 1893, and assumed control and took charge of the property in July. The 1st of September the present sessiDn was opened with a hun- dred and ten pupils. The school has grown constantly since the opening of the present session and there are now one hundred and fifty in attendance, representing eight counties in the State. The course of study embraces English, Mathematics, the Sciences, Latin, Greek, and German ; they, also, have a department of Stenography, Typewriting, and Book-keeping; also, a department of Art. The faculty is comprised of college men and women who have made teaching a profession, and at present consists of four gentlemen and two ladies. The college building has recently been furnished with the latest improved desks. The Board of Control before the beginning of the present ses- sion opened the school to girls and up to date about fifty have en- tered. The outlook for the school is most encouraging, although the small appropriation has prevented the Board of Control from ALABAMA AS IT IS. 25 supplying the school with many of the appliances necessary to the very best work. Owing to the change in the management of the school and other unavoidable causes, sufficient data are not at hand to enable me to intelligently report on the experiments heretofore conducted on the farm; the management have, how- ever, planned a systematic course of experiments to be made during this and the following season upon thirty acres of the farm, the remainder part of which will be cultivated and the pro- ceeds applied to putting the thirty acres in good condition for experimental work. There is a nice orchard, consisting of forty varieties of apples, forty of pears, twenty of plums, three of quinces, and forty of peaches. They are in their fourth year and many of them are bearing. The vineyard consists of three hundred vines, many of which have died, those that are living are in a tolerably good condition. Especial pains will be taken of the orchard and vineyard. There is connected with the school a military organization, and it is used to the extent of securing promptness in obedience to all the disciplinary regulations, and in giving regular exercises to the members of the cadet companies. Rev. M. K. Clements is the efficient president. MADISON COUNTY. JHE county of Madison was the second created in the State^ having been formed as early as 1808. It was named in honor of President Madison. The county has long sustained the reputation of being one of the most inviting regions of the State. In salubrious climate, fertile soil, agricultural resources, picturesque scenery, and refined society invest it with such charms as make it one of the most de- sirable sections for residence in the State. Its area embraces 872 square miles. Population in 1880, 37,625; population in 1890, 38,119. White, 19,395; colored, 18,774. 26 ALABAMA AS IT IS. Area planted in cotton, 75,205 acres; in corn, 69,238; in oats, 7,822 acres; in wheat, 1,721 acres; in tobacco, 9; rye, 97. Coif on production — 13,150 bales. Madison is the banner county of the Cereal Belt. In wealth and in the production of cotton it leads all the others. In shape, it is almost square. The soils of the county vary in different por- tions. In the northern and northwestern parts the lands are broken, and are composed of white and yellow clay soils. But the partial barrenness of the soil is amply atoned for by the exuberant resources of water and pure air. These sections are regarded as being exceedingly healthful. Higher up, and around the headwaters of Flint River, there are found some fine tracts of red clay soil and an abundance of excellent timber. The eastern part of the county is mountaiuous, affording superior farming lands in the intervening valleys. Between the main branches of Flint River, extending northward nearly to the south- ern limit of Tennessee, are some of the most desirable farming lands in the county. That portion of the laud which lies along the Tennessee River, in the southern part of Madison county, is remarkably fertile and is thickly populated. In the mountainous portion of the county, eastward, are found farms which are de- voted to raising clover, small grain, and stock. Madison county occupies medium ground between the tropical and temperate producing regions, with many characteristics pe- culiar to each. While its soil yields cotton quite readily, it is not equal to that grown in the Cotton Belt. The average annual yield of cotton in the county is about 20,000 bales. But there is a growing disposition on the part of the farmers to forsake cotton and to adopt stock-raising and the production of cereals and grasses exclusively. This can be effected, however, only with a change of the system of labor. But, notwithstanding the great yield of cotton, Madison is one of the largest corn-producing counties in the State. The wheat crop is annually increasing, and twenty-five or thirty bushels per acre is not considered an unusual crop, on good land. The soils of the county are specially adapted to the growth of clover, tobacco, rice, peas, and potatoes. Dairy and orchard products ALABAMA AS IT IS. 27 are receiving considerable attention, and their production shows a large annual increase. With a population of nearly 40,000, the cotton crop of Madison is estimated at $1,000,000; the corn crop about the same; peas and beans, $50,000; potatoes, $100,000, and horses, cattle and sheep nearly $1,000,000. Adjacent to the mountains, the soils are admirably adapted to the cultivation of vineyard and orchard products. Great and rapid strides have already been made in the direction of horti- culture. Coal has been discovered in the northern portion of Madison, and arrangements are being made to mine it. Iron is believed also to exist. The county is abundantly supplied with water. The Tennessee River forms its southern boundary, while Flint River and its tributaries water the greater portion of the northern and eastern portions of the county. The Flint is a stream of remarkable clearness and swiftness, and affords excellent facilities for manufacturing purposes. Besides these streams, there are Limestone and Hester's Creeks, and Indian and Spring Mountain Forks. Paint Rock River forms the county boundary on the southeast. The immense water power of the county, its abounding timber, and its splendid climate are attracting repeated accessions of pop- ulation, and the increase would be greater if its attractions were more generally known. Madison county combines, perhaps, as many advantages as any other in Alabama. No causes for local disease exist, and her ele- ments of wealth are in close proximity. About one-half of its surface is covered with forests, some of which overspread the mountain slopes, but can be easily hewn and transported. The timber is chiefly post, black, white, Spanish and blackj ack oaks, beech, poplar and sugar maple. Like many other sections of the State, wanton depredations have been made upon these noble forests, and some of the staple timbers have been almost entirely destroyed. This is especially true of the poplar, the finest specimens of which crown the densely wooded slopes of Madison; yet, a sufficiency remains for farming and building pur- 28 ALABAMA AS IT IS. poses. The timbers of the county are so distributed as to be accessible to almost every farm. The Memphis & Charleston Kailroad extends through the entire ■width of the county, east and west. This places it into easy communication with the Louisville & Nashville line, or, at Chat- tanooga, with the several roads converging there. The Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis, and Talladega & Coosa Valley Railroads also penetrate the county. The Louisville & Nashville system have a projected line. As the Muscle Shoals have been opened the Tennessee affords one of the grandest water-ways on the continent. Manufactories have recently received much attention in the county. It has three flourishing cotton factories — located in the city of Huntsville, and Eagle Pencil and many other factories at Gurley. Perhaps in no county in the State is more attention devoted to the matter of education than in Madison. Schools of excellent grade are to be found throughout the county. In the city of Huntsville is a female college and a male school of repute. HUNTSVILLE. Huntsville, the county-seat, with a population of 12,000, is, in every respect, one of the most inviting cities in the South. It has long been noted for the elevated tone of its society and for its spirit of progressiveness. Its picturesque location, architectural beauty, shady walks and macadamized streets; its public buildings, handsome church edifices, superior hotels and mammoth spring, make it exceedingly attractive as a place of residence. Three miles from the city is the ]\[atthew's Jersey Farm which is the most celebrated in the world. Monte Sauo, a charming resort on the mountain summits near the city, is one of the most delightful places in the land. It has a princely hotel, a dummy line and has become quite a summer resort. Its salubrious climate, pure mountain water, refreshing breezes and superb scenery, make it among the most desirable resorts in the Union. Huntsville was the temporary State capital in 1819. It was in ALABAMA AS IT IS. 29 this city that the convention, in 1819, which formed the first State constitution, met, and here, in the same year, assembled the first legislature of the newly created State of Alabama. New Market, Maysville, Gurley and Madison, are thriving towns. Men of energy, thrift, and enterprise, whether with or without capital, would be cordially welcomed to this county. Facilities for accumulation abound here for the manufacturer, the agricul- turist, or the horticulturist. Large numbers of Germans and other farmers have settled in the northern part of the county. Lands can now be had for from $5 to $15 per acre, with an upward tendency in valuation. The number of acres of Government land in the county is esti- mated at 5,000. I JACKSON COUNTY. JHIS county takes its name from the hero of New Orleans. It was constituted in 1818, the same year of the admission ^ of Alabama into the Union. Its resources in soils, minerals and timbers, are both varied and abundant. While even prior to the war some activity was displayed in developing its coal deposits, the wonderful abundance of these was not fully recognized until within the last few years. Its area is 990 square miles. Population in 1880, 25,114; population in 1890,28,026. White, 24,179; colored, 2,847. Area planted in cotton, 18,839 acres; in corn, 66,011 acres; in oats, 8,652 acres; in wheat, 942 acres; in rye, 41 acres; in tobacco, 8 acres. Coif 071 production — 5,358 bales. The surface of Jackson is not so level as that of the adjacent counties, but its valleys are wonderfully fertile, and its hills and mountains are full of the richest ores. It is doubtful whether the county can be surpassed by any other in the State in the di- versity of its elements. The Tennessee Kiver runs in a southwesterly direction through 30 ALAEAMA AS IT IS. Jackson, and divides it into two distinct sections — Raccoon Mountain on the southeast, and the spurs of the Cumberland Mountains on the northwest. The width of the valley, which slopes gradually to the Tennessee River, is about four miles, be- ing wider on the northern than on the southern side of the stream. The soil in the valley is quite fertile. Ascending to the summit of the ridges from the river, one stands upon extensive table lands, the uniformity of whose surface is relieved by occasional dips of the soil which mark the presence of mountain streams. When these streams issue from the mountains, they often present wild and picturesque scenes. The lands along these plateaus, while not so rich as those lying contiguous to the river, are yet productive and easy of cultivation. The soils are of a light gray and yellowish color. These lands have long been regarded as quite valuable, because of their excellent pasturage facilities. Northward from the Tennessee River the surface of the country becomes more and more broken, but more abundant in its valuable stones, and in its bold, refreshing springs which burst innumer- ably from the craggy hills. This suggests the vast abundance of water with which the county is supplied. In some respects Jackson leads all the other counties in the Tennessee Yalley in the production of cereals, while it falls behind others in the production of cotton. Corn, oats, wheat, rye, tobacco, sweet potatoes, wool, sorghum, honey and butter are chief among its manifold productions. Peas, apples, peaches, grapes and berries grow almost to perfection. Along the slopes of the hills of Jackson county are found splendid orchards of peaches. There is a steady growth of interest in stock-raising. Along the high table lands of the county are nu- merous small farms which are surrounded with all the evidences of plenty and contentment. The streams are the Tennessee and Paint Rock Rivers, and Big and Little Raccoon, Mud, Widow, Big Crow, Jones, Santa, Big Lanne, and Williams' creeks, and Hurricane and Larkins' Forks. Besides these, numerous moun- tain springs abound, the water of which is pure and perpetual. The county is unexcelled in its water supply. The hills and mountain flanks are densely wooded, while some of the alluvial valleys are still uncleared and are covered over with valuable ALABAMA AS IT IS. 31 timber. Ou the uplands are found black and red oaks, pine, cedar, and hickory. Along the valleys are found poplar, ash, maple, beech, walnut, sweet gum, cherry, and giant white oak. Indeed, both upon the table lands and in the valleys, many of the forests remain in their virgin state. They extend along the broad and deep streams of the county, and timbers hewn from them may be easily rafted. The inclination of the different water courses is such as to favor the erection of manufactories, and for local demands, such do exist. Facilities for transportation in Jackson county are admirable. The Tennessee River flows the entire length of the county, and gives a river front of at least sixty miles. Its numerous tribu- taries, which reach every section of the county, are of sufficient size to accommodate the use of light boats, and such are employed for local trade during the seasons of greatest rainfall — the winter and spring. Running almost parallel with the deep-flowing Ten- nessee, though some distance from it, is the Memphis & Charleston Railroad, while across the upper portion of the county runs the Nashville & Chattanooga Railroad. Numerous towns of impor- tance are springing up along these lines of transportation. Along the Nashville & Chattanooga Railroad are Long Island, Bridge- port, Bolivar and Stevenson. On the Memphis & Charleston Railroad are Fackler, Bellefonte, Scottsboro, the county seat, Lar- kinsville, Limrock, Woodville, and Paint Rock. Commensurate with the growth of population and of mineral wealth is the growth of the spirit of education. The county has several prominent institutions of learning, all of which are in a flourishing condition. William and Emma Austin College, at Stevenson, is a useful and popular institution; Scottsboro Col- lege, a school for males and females, is in a thrifty condition. In all the towns and villages are local schools. The mineral products of Jasper are coal and iron, while the supply of marble and limestone is unlimited. Coal abounds both in the Cumberland and Sand mountains. These ranges traverse the county twenty or thirty miles. From one of the nu- merous caves in the county is obtained saltpetre. It was used by the Confederate authorities during the civil war. In several parts 32 " ALABAMA AS IT IS. of the county are mineral springs, containing water of superior quality. There are several industries in the county which have attained considerable local prominence. Among these are the Belmont mines, situated twelve miles west of Scottsboro. In the town of Scottsboro are numerous steam and saw-mills, and a hub, spoke, and felly factory. There are facilities of industry afforded in Jackson county, the variety of which, perhaps, is not surpassed by that of any other county in Alabama. With a favorable climate, diversified and yielding every variety of farm product, exhaustless supplies of water, vast quantities of ore, superior facilities for transportation, and excellent social ad- vantages, the county is destined to be one of the most populous in the State. Lands can be obtained in the county at prices ranging from $8 to $25, according to their fertility and location. There are in Jackson county 32,720 acres of government land, which are, in part, subject to entry. Settlers from the West have, in a number of instances, come in and occupied these lands, and have established neat and thrifty farms. MAESHALL COUNTY. jARSHALL county was organized in 1836 and named in honor of Chief Justice Marshall, of Virginia. It par- takes of all the general characteristics which belong to the counties clustering along the north and south banks of the Tennessee River, and forming the great Cereal Belt of Alabama. While it is called a cereal county, its soils and resources are so varied that it takes on many other features. The area of the county is 560 square miles. Population in 1880, 14,585; population in 1890, 18,935; white, 17,652; colored, 1,283. Area planted in cotton, 27,470 acres; in corn, 37,424 acres; in oats, 6,925 acres; in wheat, 919 acres; in rye, 98 acres; in tobacco, 8 acres; cotton production, 8,112 bales. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 33 Marshall county is about equally divided by a valley which cuts it in twain from northeast to southwest. Along the line of this valley flows the Tennessee River as far as Guutersville, the county seat, when it turns northwest. The valley lands of the county are, for the most part level, with occasional undulations, and con- stitute the most attractive farming districts of the county. They have been in cultivation for many years. These lands are very productive, and are of the same character as those of every por- tion of the Tennessee Valley. The ridge lands vary in the degree of their fertility. They are usually of a light gray color with a red or yellow subsoil. In the past the rich lands of the valleys have been devoted very generally to the production of cotton. The table and ridge lands vary in the degree of fertility from the most productive to the thinnest; but all are adapted to the growth of cotton, grain and fruit. Perhaps within equal compass a greater variety of soil can not be found elsewhere within the State. Such is the blandness of the climate along the green valleys of Marshall that every cereal and esculent grown in the southern portion of the State can be produced here. Deprived, as the people of this county have been, of intercourse, to a great extent, with the world beyond, by reason of the absence of railroad com- munication, they have enjoyed ample opportunity of putting to test the charm of their climate and the productiveness of their soils. The hardiest field grain, as well as the tenderest fruit of the temperate zone, are successfully grown here. In Marshall county the conditions are equally favorable to agricultui-e, horti- culture, stock raising and manufacturing. Such is the value and variety of the soils of the county tliat agriculture in all its branches can be made most profitable. Its climate and diversity of soil are favorable to horticulture, and the generous, responsive soil yields as fine clovers, tiino'liy and grasses as can be grown in the South. But farming, stock raising and manufacturing will be the chief industrial pursuits of the people. The great forests of valuable woods in Marshall county have been scarcely touched. Along the ridges and slopes there grow 3 34 ALABAMA AS IT IS. in stately grandeur magnificent specimens of oak, hickory, beech, walnut and cherry. At a later day, when the hand of Art shall have laid the railway lines, these timbers will prove of great value. The county throughout is abundantly supplied with water. The Tennessee Kiver flows through the county and makes its great bend in the heart of it, as it suddenly curves from a southerly to a northwesterly course. The northern boundary of the coanty is skirted by Paint Rock River, which separates Marshall from Madison county. In the northeastern section the county is drained by Town Creek, while on the south the Locust Fork and its numerous branches furnish abundant supplies of water to that region. In every part of the county there are bold mountain springs of the purest and coolest water. Like the other resources of the county its mineral wealth is, as yet, undeveloped. The fact simply exists that there are deposits of coal, red hematite and bog ore, manganese, copper, lead and silver. But little effort has been made to develop these, because of the absence of transportation in the past. But this difficulty will soon be overcome. The completion of the Tennessee & Coosa Railroad through Marshall county, crossing the river at Man- chester, will soon have been effected. The Birmingham Mineral Railroad is also being rapidly built. The Guntersville & Scotts- boro Railroad is chartered, and the right-of-way secured. Nego- tiations are now pending for beginning work at once upon this line. With the Muscle Shoals Canal completed, Marshall will have a water-way second to that of no other portion of the continent, for, as has already been said, the peculiar curve of the great river makes it accessible to every part of the county. The commercial importance of the Tennessee River can scarcely be overestimated since the great natural barrier at Muscle Shoals is removed. When this stream has been united with the Coosa at Gadsden there will be communication with all the great rail- way lines leading toward the East and Northwest. Peculiar ad- vantages are thus afforded in this county to investors. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 35 The populatiou of Marshall county is honest, intelligent, thrifty, and industrious. It is almost exclusively a white popula- tion. Good schools are found in every section of the county. Guntersville, the county seat, situated upon the Tennessee River, has a population of nearly 700, and is the seat of a Normal School of high grade. Its environments are favorable to a large city. Surrounded by a fertile agricultural region, commanding ihe trade of the Tennessee River in both directions, and the destined center of a future railway system, it will have all the facilities for a bustling center of commerce. Much of the grandeur and picturesqueness of the Tennessee Valley are accessible to this future city. Mountain rapids, cas- cades, and waterfalls contribute to the abounding variety of the region, and but a short distance from the town there are the traces of the Mound Builders, and a large cave. The other chief towns are Warrenton, Henryville, Claysville, Albertville, Oleander, and Manchester. Because of the inaccessibility of Marshall county the lands are, at present, moderately low. They can now be purchased at merely nominal figures; but this section is attracting the eager attention of speculators, and at no remote day the lands will be purchased. Lands for farming, stock-raising, or timbers may be bought, when unimproved, for from $1 to |5 per acre. Improved lands will cost from $3 to $50 per acre, and their valuation will depend upon the character of their soils, improvements, and location. Marshall county has 3,000 acres of public or government lands, some of which are subject to entry. Persons seeking information in regard to the county of Marshall will be cheerfully answered free of charge by addressing inquiries to The Democrat, Guntersville, Ala. Write for free sample copies, showing maps, views, resources, and opportunities offered. 36 ALABAMA AS IT IS. MOKGAN COUNTY. jHE county of Morgan was established in the year 1818, xl ^ ^^^ named for General Daniel Morgan, of Pennsylvania. It lies directly south of the Tennessee River, and is one of the most important counties in North Alabama. Its area is 700 square miles. Population in 1880, 16,928; population in 1890, 24,089; white, 18,015; colored, 6,076. Area planted in cotton, 23,628 acres; in corn, 38,048 acres; in oats, 6,395 acres; in wheat, 968 acres; in rye, 52 acres; in tobacco, 7 acres; cotton. production, 6,241 bales. Proceeding southward from the Tennessee River, which forms the northern boundary of Morgan county, there are met four ter- race-like plains, each with characteristics peculiar to itself. The first of these would be the bottoms, which lie in close proximity to the Tennessee River. The soils here are porous and produc- tive, but liable to overflow. For this reason they are planted almost altogether in corn. Occasionally, however, where the soil is not so much exposed to overflow, there is cotton planted. Then comes the land ("f the Valley of the Tennessee proper. This is elevated above the bottoms about seventy-five or one hundred feet, and possesses the red or brown soils, which mark the great valley from limit to limit. Because of the generous soil possessed by this valley, the lands are almost wholly cleared. The valley in this county varies very greatly. In some parts it is but a mile or two wide, while in others it is fully eight. Ascending to the next natural formation one is from seventy- five to one hundred feet above the valley, and is upon the summit of a range known as Little Mountain. The It-aids along this broad, natural shelf are not so fertile as those in the valley for purposes of farming, but are superior in their pasturage quali- ties. Grasses in the greatest variety and luxuriance grow along this lofty platean. Here we find the stock- producing section of the county. Of course, from this, it will not be understood that the soils of this section are incapable of producing only grasses. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 37 In this portion of Morgan are found many thrifty farms, sur- rounded by all the comforts of life. It is more distinctively adapted, however, to stock-raising than to agriculture. From this elevated plain, which commands the view of the Tennessee Valley, and going southward there is a perceptible descent to the foot of Sand Mountain. This is the fourth distinct division of the county. The width of this terrace varies from one to twelve miles. Along this we find a great variety of soil, the fertility or thinness of which is indicated by its peculiar hue. In some portions the lands are black, while in others they are red and gray. That part of the county which is now being described is a portion of the great Warrior Coalfield. Thus it will be seen that Morgan possesses, to a greater or less degree, all the advan- tages, agriculturally and otherwise, which are possessed by the surrounding counties of the great Tennessee Valley. All the grains are produced here that are produced elsewhere in this North Alabama region. And the hardy fruits, such as apples, peaches, pears, and the various berries are grown abundantly and are usually of superior quality. The water supply of the county is superior. The Tennessee Kiver forms the whole of the northern boundary of the county, while Flint Creek and its two forks, Cataco, No Business, Cedar, Shoal, Six Mile, Main, Scrouge and Gandy's Fork, penetrate every portion of it, and not only supply it with water, but contribute greatly to the enrichment of the soils. The county is also well watered with superior springs. In the northeastern portion are the Valhermoso and Lacey Springs, which enjoy a local reputation. The different streams afPord ex- cellent fish. There is an abundance of wood for all purposes in the county. Vast districts of the county have scarcely been touched by the woodman's axe. Principal among the timbers which throng the forests are the post-oak, blackjack, hickory, poplar, walnut, maple, sour-wood, cherry, cedar, and short-leaf pine. There are large milling interests which are engaged in the conversion of much of this timber into lumber for home consumption and for shijiiaent to distant markets. Facilities for transportation are found in the Tennessee Eiver, which forms the northern boundary line of the county, the Louis- 38 ALABAMA AS IT IS. ville & Nashville Eailroad, which runs entirely through, and the Memphis & Charleston l^ailroad, which penetrates the northern end of the county and crosses the Louisville & Nashville system at Dscatur. Other railway lines are in contemplation which are expected to pierce other portiocs of the county and thus greatly enlarge facilities for the shipment of products, but sufficient outlet for transportation is already afforded in the lines -which now pene- trate the county. Unusual advantages for the shipment of pro- duce is afforded the inhabitants of Morgan, as the competing lines of railway cross at Decatur, and there also cross the Tennessee River, the navigation of which Avill soon be open in both direc- tions. The county is being rapidly peopled and correspondingly devel- oped. Minerals exist in different parts of the county. These are chiefly coal and limestone, though there is the evident presence of gold, and the indications are that it is in large quantities. Asphalt also exists, being the first trace of it discovered in America. No direct effort has been made to develop these mineral resources, the investigations hitherto being directed only to ascertain the extent of their prevalence. The moral tone of the population of tlie county is healthy, and excellent school and church facilities abound in town and county alike. Of the towns, Somerville is an interior village with a popula- tion of several hundred, and has a flourishing school. Decatur. For many years Decatur was content to be a quiet town of 1,200 inhabitants, lying favorably at the junction of the Louisville & Nashville and Memphis & Charleston Railroads. These two great thoroughfares meet upon the banks of the Tennessee River, and at this point is located the city of Decatur. Catching the spirit that was astir throughout the entire North Alabama region, Decatur began to take a new and vigorous growth, and within the last two years its population has increased to more than 6,000. The chief feature of the city is that portion which is designated as New Decatur. Its new and spacious streets and avenues, lined with residences and business houses, some of which rival in ALABAMA AS IT IS. 39 attractiveness those of the largest cities, its mammoth and splendid hotel — The Tavern — and its numerous industries, serve to show the life and spirit of this city of the Tennessee. Chief among the industries are these: 1. The United States Rolling Stock Company has removed their immense plant from Urbana, Ohio, to this place. Cost, $1,000,000. 2. The Louisville & Nashville Eailway Car Works. Cost of buildings, ^300,000. Employs 750 men. 3. Charcoal Company's plant, costing $120,000. 4. A 70-ton Charcoal Iron Furnace, costing $100,000. 5. The Decatur Iron Bridge & Construction Company. Cost, $100,000. 6. The Car Wheel & Manufacturing Company, capacity 140 wheels per day. Cost of plant, $60,000. 7. Southern Horseshoe Nail Factory, 60 mechanics. Capital, $100,000. 8. The American Oak Extract Company's plant, costing $60,000. 9. Ivens & Son's Steam Boiler & Engine Works, costing $100,000. 10. Morse's Cotton Compress plant, costing $60,000. 11. Decatur Lumber Compa'iy, Saw & Planing Mills, costing $50,000. 12. Berthard & Co.. Sash, Door & Blind Factory, costing $15,000. 13. The Decatur Street Eailway. 14. The Telephone Company. 15. Brush Electric Light Company. 16. Howlaad & Company's Water Workd System, costing $200,000. 17. Bleymeyer Artificial Ice Company, cost $10,000. 18. One mammoth brick yard, 19. Arantz Brothers' Mills & Lumber Yards. 20. Hoy's Furniture Factory. 21. H. S. Freeman's Mills & Lumber Yards. 22. Natural Gas Company. Capital, $200,000. 23. First National Bank. Caoital, $100,000. 40 ALABAMA AS IT IS. 24. The Exchange Bank of Decatur. Capital, $100,000. 25. Decatur Building Association. Capital, $300,000. 26. Buchheit's Bottling Works. 27. The Decatur Plumbing & Supply Company. Capital, $25,000. Located so near the great mineral fields, and destined to enjoy marked advantages when the Muscle Shoals works are completed, Decatur will become one of the great cities of the State. Excel- lent school and church facilities abound in the favored city. It is now the seat of justice. . Falkville, Trinity, Hartselle, Somerville, Leesburg, Danville and Yalhermoso Springs are points of chief importance, and possess valuable educational interests. Lands in this county may be purchased at prices ranging from $5 to $40 per acre. Considering the competing lines which cross each other in the county, its superior soil, its climate and medicinal waters, together with its numerous social advantages, Morgan county is the peer of any other in the great Cereal Belt. The people regard with favor and encouragement the settlement of men of studious, in- dustrious and frugal habits, in their midst. The county has no unappropriated Government lands. LAWEENCE COUNTY. ^^ HAN this a more attractive county is not found within the ^1^ State. It was organized in 1818 and was named in honor ^^^^ of the great naval officer, James Lawrence, of Vermont. In point of fertility, in agricultural productions, in topography, climate, and numerous social advantages, it stands in the front rank of the counties of Alabama. Lawrence county has an area of 790 square miles. Population in 1880, 21,392; population in 1890, 20,725. White, 12,553; colored, 8,172. Area planted in cotton, 4,000 acres; in corn, 44,631; in oats. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 41 2,970 acres; in wheat, 1,022 acres; in rje, 24 acres; tobacco, 13 acres. Coiion produciion — 9,248 bales. The county is penetrated from east to west by two extensive valleys known as Courtland and Moulton Valleys. The former of these being in the northern and the latter in the southern portion of the county, while the center is occupied by a detached mountain known as Little Mountain. The Courtland Valley is a beautiful level domain with sandy loam soil, which is not very deep, but resting upon a good foun- dation. When first cleared, the lands along the valley are exceed- ingly productive. The soil is of a mulatto cast tinged to a great depth by the iron which enters freely into its composition. A prevailing characteristic of this soil is that it dries rapidly after a rainfall. It is easy of cultivation. When fresh, the lands of the Courtland Valley were quite pro- ductive, and the early settlers of the county accumulated property very rapidly, but they were not judicious in the use of fertilizers to check any symptoms of decay, nor were they discreet in every instance in planting ameliorating crops. By the use of manures to-day, these lands, which are still pro- ductive, can be rendered wonderfully so, as they can be improved by a proper system of rotation. This is the result of the experi- ments made by the farmers of Courtland Valley since the close of the war. Clover, corn, small grain and cotton grow with great readiness, and are gratifyingly productive in this valley. Moulton Valley, in its essential features, is like Courtland Val- ley, only it has more of the branch soil, which is black. In this valley head Town Creek, which runs north through the Little Mountain and empties into the Tennessee River; Big Nance Cieek, which runs in the same direction, and Flint Biver, which tr iverses a portion of Morgan county and finds an outlet in the iL'unessee River. These creek lands are regarded among the most productive in the county when properly drained. The farms are smaller here than in Courtland Valley, cultivated with more care, and are con- sequently more remunerative. The Little Mountain region, which occupies the central portion 42 ALABAMA AS IT IS. of the county, has a light saudy soil, which ia point of fertility falls far behind those of the two valleys. But no portion of the county is more inviting than this as a place of residence. Ele- vated three or four hundred feet above the valleys, supplied with a profusion of freestone and chalybeate springs, with a soft, healthful atmosphere, with extensive reaches of grazing lands for herds, this section is most inviting to many who come to Lawrence county in search of homes. A small colony of Quakers has re- cently located in this region, midway between the towns of Court- land and Moulton. The county is traversed by numerous streams, large and small, which afford abundant supplies of water to every portion. The northern boundary of the county is formed by the Tennessee Eiver, and more than half this boundary is occupied by the Great Muscle Shoals, which are not navigable. The upper boundary, however, is on the open portion of the Tennessee River, which will soon be opened to the largest packets. In other portions of the county are Town and Nance Creeks, a fork of Flint River, and Sipsey Fork. Springs of great coolness and of unceasing flow issue from the hilly portions of the county. Timber is not in sufficient quantities for commercial purposes. In the past, the Little Mountain region furnished great quantities to the two valleys between which it is situated; but the forests have been sufficiently depleted to create care and protection against future depredations. For home consumption there is still a sufficiency of pine, white oak and poplar. The islands in the Tennessee are densely wooded with poplar, white oak, ash, red gum, and black oak. The mineral resources of the county, as far as • discovered, are limited. A few thin seams of coal are found on the high escarp- ments of the mountains, but it is not in sufficient quantities for practical purposes. Almost every kind of fruit seems to do well in Lawrence county. The productions have been the most satis- factory. Grape culture has received more attention than any other. Colonel James E. Saunders, living near Courtland, has a famous vineyard, in which is successfully grown every species of grape known to the fruit-growers of the continent. He manufactures a ALABAMA AS IT IS. 43 large quantity of wine every year, and ships vast cargoes of grapes to the markets of the North and Northwest. The facilities for transportation will be restricted to the Mem- phis & Charleston Railroad, which runs through the Courtland Valley east and west, until the Tennessee River shall have been opened by the completion of the Muscle Shoals Canal. The chief towns of the county are Moulton, the county-seat, which has a population of about 800, Courtland and Leighton. Good common schools exist in every section of the county, and a female academy of high grade in the town of Moulton. In almost every region of the county are the evidence of thrift and progress. Along the high, healthful ridges are found many handsome homes, adorned with flower gardens and surrounded with spacious orchards. In some regions of the county, where coves are formed, there are oftentimes found scenes of great wildness and beauty. The prices of land vary in the county, and are controlled by the fertility of the soil and the location of the land. Lands vary in prices from $5 to $50. Thrifty, wideawake, progressive immigrants would be greeted by the good people of Lawrence county. Farmers, fruit-growers and stock-raisers could not find a more inviting section. The county has no Government lands not taken up. COLBERT COUNTY. pHE county of Colbert was not created until 1867. It was created for a famous Chickasaw chief. Though one of the youngest counties of the State, it has already made long strides to the front as one of the most progressive. " Beautiful for situation,'" advantageously located, and abounding in the most generous soils, exuberant water courses, and a progressive popu- lation, Colbert has the elements to make it one of the most charm- ing sections of the entire State. The area of the county is 570 square miles. 44 ALABAMA AS IT IS. Population in 1880, 16,153; population in 1890, 20,187. White, 12,261; colored, 7,828. Area planted in cotton, 23,059; in corn, 27,305; in oats, 1,997; in wheat, 72; in rye, 15; in tobacco, 7; cotton production, 3,956. The area of land in cultivation is rapidly enlarging and the production being, in consequence, very materially increased. The county is divided from east to west by a broad range of hills, which are locally called the Little Mountain. Between this elevated ridge and the Tennessee Eiver, which forms its boundary on the north, is that portion of the Tennessee Valley which lies within the county. South of these hills lies Russell Valley. The dividing hills are about three hundred or three hundred and fifty feet above the valleys between which they stand. The lands along the summit of these hills are the least fertile of those of the county, and are well adapted and frequently devoted to the raising of fruit which is grown in great profusion and to wonder- ful perfection. The altitude of the hills, together with their abounding springs of water, make them especially desirable as places of summer residence. In Russell Valley the lands are of excellent quality, and are much sought by farmers because of their productiveness. The same is true of the Tennessee Valley. The latter valley is more level than the former, and the lands are not so much exposed to washing. In both valleys there is a prevalence of reddish loam with a subsoil of yellow or red clay. In some sections the lands assume a deep blackness like that of the richest prairie lands. Upon these lands are produced the finest corn, cotton, wheat and oats. The growth of grass is spontaneous, and its exuberance makes Colbert a magnificent stock region. The efforts at stock- raising in the county have been most gratifying, and prove the conditions most favorable for the raising of the finest horses, mules, cattle and sheep. There is a large amount of open range in the hills, which, from the character of the land, must for many years remain open and afford magnificent free pasturage, throughout ten months of the year, for the flocks and herds of the thrifty valley farmers. The chief productions of Colbert are cotton, corn, wheat, oats. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 45 clover, grasses and potatoes, all of which are quite thrifty, and show the generous nature of the soil in which they are grown. The timbers of the county are the different varieties of the oak, red, white, blackjack, post, cherry and chestnut, together with black walnut, the different gums and short-leaf pine. Magnificent specimens of oak and hickory are found along the rich valleys, and in great abundance. One of the most valuable features of Colbert is its splendid forests of timber. Big Bear, Cedar, Spring and Town Creeks drain the different portions of the county. Several of these flow into the Tennessee on the north, and hence their value is greatly enhanced. There are three railroads in the county, the Memphis & Charleston, which runs directly through the county from east to west, and a branch of which connects Florence across the Tennes- see River in Lauderdale county, with Sheffield and Tuscumbia; the Sheffield & Birmingham, which runs south to Jasper, and at that point connects with Birmingham, and makes it directly tribu- tary to Sheffield the vast deposits of ore and coal which lie in in- exhaustible abundance throughout the mineral fields south of the Tennessee River, and the Sheffield division of the Louisville & Nashville road, which enters the county by a bridge across the Tennessee River, at Florence. Besides these roads, built and in active operation, the preliminary work on several other roads has been completed and the work of construction on the same will soon be commenced. The Tennessee River, navigable throughout the greater part of the year for the largest Mississippi and Ohio River steamers, from its mouth to the Sheffield landing, forms the entire northern boundary of the county and is a most important transportation route between Colbert county and the immense extent of country reached by the great water-ways of the Ohio and the Mississippi from their limit of navigation to the Gulf of Mexico. In transportation facilities no county in the State of Alabama is more richly favored than Colbert. Tuscumbia was founded in 1818. It is a beautiful little city of some two thousand inhabitants, and is the county seat. The Deshler Institute, a school of considerable renown, is located here. The town is noted for its "Big Spring" from which issues 40 ALABAMA AS IT IS. an immense volume of freestone water. Cherokee, Chickasaw and Leighton are pleasant little villages and good trading points. Sheffield, the most important city in the county, and destined to take rank with the first in this entire section in commercial and manufacturing consequence, was founded in 1884, and has already attained a considerable prominence. The city is beautifully lo- cated upon a broad plateau stretching back from the crown of the blufifs which here overlook the Tennessee River. It occupies a superb site, and seems to have been especially designed by Provi- dence as the location of a great business center. From it radiate three great railroad lines, and to it several more are being built as fast as a liberal expenditure of money and muscle will do it. By the Tennessee Biver it has a line of water-way transportation that is unsurpassed, and situated as it is, near the head of navi- gation on this important stream, it must in the future become a great distributing point for a large section of country. In this flourishing four-year-old city are the homes of quite four thous- and people. Magnificent brick business blocks have been erected, and colossal manufacturing enterprises, unequalled in any city of its size in the United States, have been carried to completion. Its five immense blast furnaces produce 700 tons of pig iron daily, and create in themselves a volume of business that would do credit to cities many times larger than Sheffield. The quality of iron produced is unsurpassed by any similar plant in the United States. The city is lighted by electricity, supplied with water by a complete water works system, has a street car line, and a tele- phone exchange is soon to be inaugurated. The First National Bank of Sheffield and the Bank of Sheffield are both sound finan- cial institutions located in Sheffield, and are the only banks in the county. They have a capital stock of $100,000 each, and do a large business. The common school system of the county is good, and Sheffield and Tuscumbia are provided with educational advantages that are exceptional. Almost all of the religious denominations have active organiza- tions in the county, and church privileges are abundant. Brown hematite iron ore, inexhaustible in quantity and analyz- ing 54 per cent, of metal, is found in the southern part of the ALABAMA AS IT IS. 47 county, and several quarries of magnificent sand aud limestone liave been opened. The Mountain Mills (cotton) are found at Barton Station, on the Memphis & Charleston Railroad. These mills have been in successful operation since 1873. Lands may be purchased in the county at prices ranging from $0 to $50 per acre. The resources, agricultural and mineral, the facilities for manufacturing, farming and stock-raising, and the abundant means of transportation, gives Colbert a conspicuous place in the midst of the other counties in this section of Ala- bama. There are in the county nearly 2,960 acres of land be- longing to the government. THE MINERAL BELT. ^^F THE four great belts into which the State is divided, the ^Mineral is, by odds, the largest. It embraces twenty-eight ^^^counties, which cover more than one-third of the State. This vast area embraces almost all the chief minerals known to art, and in many instances in fabulous abundance. It is idle to undertake to calculate the extent of the prevalence of some of the mineral deposits of Alabama. This admits of special application to stone, coal and iron. All indications and investigations point to the exhaustlessness of these minerals which lie stored away beneath the thrones of the everlasting hills. Stupendous enterprises under the auspices of mammoth corporations have, of late years, sprung up for the development of these minerals, but each step of progress only discloses how inexhaustible they are. There are embraced in the Mineral Belt, three great coalfields — the Warrior, the Cahaba, and the Coosa. The Warrior Coalfield has an area of about 7,810 square miles. It is much larger than the other two combined. By some it is estimated as being ten times the size of the other two taken together. Professor McCalley, supposing that the available coal of this field would 48 ALABAMA AS IT IS. cover an area o£ only 500 square miles, with seventy-five feet thickness, giving a block of coal seventy- five miles long by fifty miles wide, and ten feet thick; and the result would be 37,500,- 000,000 tons — enough to last for nearly 10,275 years at the rate of 10,000 tons per day. But this, so far from being an extrava- gant estimate, is regarded by scientists as falling vastly below the capacity of this wonderful domain of minerals. The coals from the Warrior field are well adapted to the pro- duction of gas and steam, as well as fitted for the domestic hearth and the shop of the blacksmith. Excellent coking coals are derived from some sections of this field. The vastness of this body of coal suggests that it will one day constitute one of the greatest industrial centers of the Union. The Cahaba Coalfield. For many years, beginning before the commencement of the war, the coal derived from this field has been famous as a domes- tic fuel. It was dug more than a quarter century ago and hauled in wagons to the Alabama River and rafted to Mobile and Montgomery. This coalfield lies south of the Warrior Coalfield, and occupies a more southern latitude than any other found in the United States. It covers an area of over 400 square miles, and its measures are estimated as being 5,000 feet thick. Estimating the output at 10,000 tons per day, Professor McCalley decides that the deposits of the Cahaba coalfield would not be exhausted short of 1,100 years. This coal is remarkable for its firmness and its capacity to resist atmospheric changes. Coosa Coalfield. This is the smallest of the coal districts of Alabama, and one about which less is known than any other. Means of exploration have been scant, by reason of the remoteness of this field, until the construction of the Georgia Pacific Railroad. It has been estimated, however, that it will cover an area of 400 square miles, giving the largest margin for deduction. Professor McCalley reaches the conclusion that with an output of 10,000 tons per day the coal of this region would last 165 years. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 49 Aggregating these enormous sums concerning the available coal in Alabama, it is seen that there is at least 42,100,000,000 tons, which will supply a demand of 10,000 tons daily for 11,500 years. These great districts of mineral wealth are penetrated here and there by valleys which afford a vast abundance of limestone. And then, as if to supply the last deficiency, a providential Maker has favored these broad regions of mineral with deep and perpet- ual river-ways, on the bosoms of which these products of wealth may be borne to the seas and to the distant quarters of the globe. Iron. Iron is the symbol of civilization. Its value can be measured only by the progress of the present age. It is the most potent of all the metals. Indeed, it is worth more to the world than all other metals combined. Silver and gold are not indispensable. Substitutes could be readily found for them were they exhausted, but iron represents only the honest industry of labor. Its uses are universal, and it is fitted alike to hold the stoutest ship at anchor against the ocean storm and to manufacture screws in delicate machinery so minute that they can be seen only through the microscope. The beds of this ore are so numerous throughout this famous mineral region that it is impossible to point out the localities where it prevails. Lying in close proximity to coal, its manu- facture is far easier than in the older mineral regions of America, where expensive means have to be employed to bring them together. Thus far the most valuable outcroppings of red ore are found in the counties of St. Clair, Jefferson and Shelby. The brown iron ore is extensively diffused in the region lying south of the Tennessee River. It is already mined in the counties of Cherokee, Etowah, Calhoun, Talladega and Bibb. The barest mention has been made of these dominating miner- als in this great belt. Besides these, there prevails gold, silver, copper, tin, lead, graphite, abestbs, emery, gypsum, mica, ochre, 4 50 ALABAMA AS IT IS. asphalt, marble, kaolin, and fire clays. The localities of these minerals will be indicated when our attention shall have been turned to the consideration of the counties. Besides these marvelous deposits of treasure, the Mineral Belt has superb forests of timber, which cover many thousands of square miles. In addition still, it embraces as splendid farms as can be found in any portion of the South. Thus has an Infinite Creator placed together in lavish profusion all the elements of wealth and com- fort known to our advanced civilization — all the precious and practical ores and minerals, the most splendid timbers, springs, fountains, and rivers of the purest water, soils of fertility, and an atmosphere the brace and healthfulness of which are unexcelled. FRANKLIN COUNTY. ^i^HIS county took its name from the great American philoso- |Ci^ pher, Benjamin Franklin. It was organized in the year "^plS* 1818. It is one of the border counties of the State, lying adjacent to Mississippi; notwithstanding it is placed prominent among the mineral counties, its agricultural resources are also of superior order. The area of the county is 610 square miles. Population in 1880, 9,155 ; population in 1890, 10,681. White, 9,520; colored, 1,161. Area planted in cotton, 12,117 acres; in corn, 20,130 acres; in oats, 2,152 acres; in wheat, 193 acres; in rye, 4 acres ; in tobacco, 3 acres. CoUon production — 2,669 bales. The northern half of the county is a valley known as Russell's Yalley ; the southern portion is a high tableland, which is the northern part of the Warrior coalfield. The soils, especially in the northern part, are of such character as to be favorable to the production of cotton and the cereals Indeed, in some sections of Franklin the lands fall not a whit behind the fertile lands of the famous Tennessee Yalley. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 51 The lands which lie along its attractive valleys, and those of the western part of the county, which are of a loamy character, are favorable to the production of cotton. As is seen from the aggregate statement of productions, furnished above, the varied soils of Franklin are productive of almost every cereal. Grasses and clovers grow with great readiness, and hence stock-raising is easy. In S'^me portions of the county are valuable timbers, which will be of immense value when the transportation facilities of the county are improved. Among these may be mentioned the dif- ferent varieties of oak, viz: red, white, post and black-jack, together with an excellent growth of cedar, dogwood, chestnut, walnut, wild cherry and black locust, hackberry and hickory. The streams are Cedar, Big and Little Bears Creeks, all of which flow toward the northwest and empty into the Tennessee River. Other smaller streams, which are tributary to these al- ready mentioned, afford an abundant water supply to every portion of the county, enhancing its value, both with respect to its manu- facturing and stock-raising facilities. The centers of interest are, Bellgreen, the county-seat, Frankfort, Russellville and Center Line, all of which have good local schools. The county is now penetrated by one of the most important railway lines in the State, viz: The Sheffield & Birmingham Railroad. This gives the county transportation advantages to Birmingham in one direction and to the Tennessee River in the other. The Savannah & Memphis Railroad is projected through Frank- lin county. Should it come to pass that this important line will be completed, it will necessarily cross the East Tennessee, Vir- ginia & Georgia Railway system at Talladega, and the Anniston & Atlantic at the same point. It would also intersect the great thoroughfares, the Georgia Pacific and the Louisville & Nashville. But that which will be the chief glory of the county will be the development of its ore wealth. Its beds of iron ore are known to be immense, but they are, as yet almost untouched by the hand of art. It was in this county that the first effort was ever made in Alabama to manu- facture iron. This was undertaken as far back as 1818, but after an experiment of nine years the enterprise was abandoned. The mines of this primitive establishment are still to be seen in Frank- 52 ALABAMA AS IT IS, lin county. Remote from transportation, it is amazing that it should have so long existed. But the transportation is now sup- plied, and a new impulse will be given the iron interest of this section of the State. The extent of the coal deposits of Franklin are unknown. The evidence exist of its prevalence, however, and like its twin associate, iron, it will have to wait future progress for its development. The long continued absence of transportation has depressed the market valuation of the lands of Franklin county, but they will now come rapidly into notice, and their valuation will be greatly advanced. A healthy climate, excellent farming lands, superior water, and deposits of iron and coal, offer inducements to persons seeking a prosperous section. Besides, its numerous districts of land which may be purchased at moderate prices, there are in the county 32,040 acres of Gov- ernment lands, some of which are subject to entry. MARION COUNTY. ^H^YING directly south of Franklin is Marion county. It was |IBM created in 1818 and named for General Francis Marion. ^^?f The extensive natural advantages possessed by the county are serving to attract capital and enterprise, and, though not en- joying the transportation facilities of many other counties, it is rapidly coming to the front as one of the most important in the State. It joins Mississippi on the west, and is situated in that portion of the State where some of the richest mineral deposits exist. The county has an area of 810 square miles. Population in 1880, 9,364; population in 1890, 11,397; white, 10,764; colored, 578. Area planted in cotton, 14,552 acres; in corn, 22,827 acres; in oats, 2,674 acres; in wheat, 288 acres; in tobacco, 16 acres; cotton production, 4,454 bales. The surface of the county is, for the most part, broken. The soils are of moderate fertility, and of such variety as to favor a ALABAMA AS IT IS. 53 diversity of production. In the western portion, near the Missis- sippi line, the most fertile lands in the county are to be found. These are the cotton lands. It is doubtful whether any county in this portion of Alabama has soils which exceed in fertility those which lie along the western border of the county of Marion. Many excellent farms are found throughout the county. They are mostly located upon the wide extended tablelands which form a prevailing feature. These lands are most desirable, both on account of the generous soil and the favorable position of the surface with respect to drainage. Along these broad tablelands the soil is a red loam. In other sections are found soils which are of a sandy loam of a brown color. The lands which lie along the streams are of a rich dark color. This character of soil ex- tends but a short distance on both sides of the creeks and branches, but are quite desirable because of their fertility and MARION MILITARY INSTITUTE. because too of their elevation above the point of overflow. This gives a sense of security to the planter, and his grain rarely fails to come to maturity. The readiness with which the best grasses are produced is attracting the attention of stock-raisers, and many good stock farms are found in different sections of the county. The value of the county as a stock-raising district is further en- hanced by the fact that it is favored with a great number of per- petual streams. Indeed, the greater part of Marion county is drained by a single large stream — the Buttahachie Kiver — whose numerous tributaries, flowing from all directions from the lofty tablelands and hillsides, furnish inexhaustible supplies of the purest water. The principal streams of the county are Butta- hatchie, Looxapalila and Sipsey Rivers, Beaver, Bull Mountain, and Bear creeks, together with many smaller streams. These streams flow southwest and empty into the Tombigbee. It is 54 ALABAMA AS IT IS. reasonable to suppose that at some future time sf;me of these streams will serve for purposes of local transportation. In many portions of Marion are to be found extensive forests of timber. Chief among the numerous specimens are short-leaf pine, hickory, post, red and white oaks, sweet and black gum, chestnut, poplar,, cherry, beach and bay. Through these hilly forests is to be found much game, especially such as deer and turkeys, and, indeed, all kinds of game usually found in the forests of the South. In addition to farming and stock-raising the people devote themselves, to a limited degree, to manufacturing. On Bear Creek are two flourishing cotton mills, known as Allen's Factory and the Fall Mills. The former has a capital of $20,000, and the latter $15,000. Both are run by water-power, which serves to illustrate the utility to which these bold mountain streams may be devoted in the manufactures. Beneath the ranges of hills which exist in every section of Marion are considerable deposits of coal, the extent of the prevalence of which is indicated by the outcrop- pings in every portion of the county. Gold has also been discov- ered in some sections of Marion. Two railroads have recently been extended through the county, viz: The Kansas City, Mem- phis & Birmingham, and the Sheffield & Birmingham. Such is the prevalence of valuable ore in the county that roads will doubtless be built as branches to the main thoroughfares running through the county. The brace of mountain air everywhere felt is a sure guarantee of health. In no part of the county are there to be encountered pestilential vapors or death-breeding lagoons. The people, especially about the centers of interest, are fully alive to the importance of education. Good schools are found in every portion of Marion. Unusual inducements are afforded in this county for invest- ments in land. No matter for what purpose desired, they can now be bought at a figure far below their intrinsic value. Of course, this will cease when the county is more extensively pene- trated by railroads. The stock-raiser, the farmer, or the investor in mineral lands, will find it advantageous to examine the induce- ments offered in Marion county. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 55 56 ALABAMA AS IT IS. Hamilton, Pikeville, Shottsville, Guinn, Winfield, Darlington and Barnesville are the points of the greatest importance in the- county. The first of these is the county seat, which has recently been established, and is said to have one of the best court houses and safest jails in the State. Extensive tracts of land may now be purchased at figures won- derfully low, even as low as $2 per acre. Anxious to have the- material wealth of the county enhanced, the inhabitants of Marion look with great favor upon immigration. There are in Marion county 50,000 acres of land belonging ta the Government. WINSTON COUNTY. jHE name of this county was changed form that of Hancock IwM K. ^^ 1858. Under the original name it was organized in c^ m @ 1850. The county has immense resources of minerals. With- in the last year it has attracted considerable attention, which has been mainly due to the construction of the new railroads in the adjoining county of Walker. The Sheffield & Birmingham Rail- road penetrates the western portion of Winston. The area of the county is 540 square miles. Population in 1880, 4,253; population in 1890, 6,552. White, 6,516; colored, 36. Area planted in cotton, 5,312 acres; in corn, 11,942 acres; in oats, 2,105 acres; in wheat, 255 acres; in rye, 13 acres; in tobacco, 25 acres. Cotton Production — 1,464 bales. The face of the country throughout Winston is generally much broken. Within the limits of the county, near its western bound- ary, runs the main ridge which divides the waters of the Warrior and Tombigbee Bivers. This (Byler) ridge cuts the county in twain from north to south. The farming operations of Winston are carried on mainly iia ALABAMA AS IT IS. 57 the lowlands and creek bottoms, because of the fertility of these soils above those upon the uplands or higher ridges. But little of the land lying along the ridge is cultivated, owing to the thin- ness of the soils. It is in no sense an agricultural county, al- though in some portions cotton and corn are quite readily pro- duced. The local industries are farming, stock raising and wool growing. Dairy farming is carried on to a limited extent. As will appear from the map, Winston county is abundantly supplied with water. These numerous streams, by their conflu- ence, form the chief water-ways of the county — Black Water, Big Bear, Clear and Rock Creeks, and Sipsey and Brushy Forks. The Buttahatchie and New Rivers have their fountain heads amid the wild hills of Winston county. Along the abounding gorges and valleys there rush the multitudinous tributaries which feed these principal streams from many quarters. Winston can not be excelled, perhaps, by any county in the 8tate in the wildness and picturesqueness of its natural scenery. The waters in some in- stances have worn channels in the sandstones, and often flow through gorges with high, perpendicular sides. In some in- stances rapids and cataracts are found which fill the solitudes with their loud-sounding thunder. Two of these waterfalls occur in Clear Creek about 300 yards apart. The falls are each about 30 feet. Below the falls the waters dash down a deep, narrow gorge. They are objects of peculiar interest, and will one day attract many sight-seers. "Rock houses," as they are locally named, abound along these streams. In the neighborhood of these rocky caverns are found growing in luxuriance and beauty the rarest ferns known to American florists. The natural timber growth is composed of post, black, red, white and Spanish oaks, poplar, beech, holly, chestnut, sour gum, and occasionally short- leaf pine. In many parts of Winston the forests are as yet untouched, and hence abound in many fine spe- cimens of the timber already named. This is especially true of the lands >vhich lie adjacent to creeks in the bottoms. One of the chief attractions of the county is its abundant game. Turkeys and deer abound in every portion of Winston, and hunt- ers resort thither from the adjoining counties. Most excellent fish, too, are found in the numerous streams. 58 ALABAMA AS IT IS. The county is exceedingly rich in its mineral properties. The extent of these deposits is as yet unknown, but it is believed that no portion of Alabama, of the same compass, will excel the county of Winston in its mineral resources. Vast quantities of coal underlie the hills, and iron ore is abund- ant. In some sections a superior quality of slate is found, and in large quantities. There are several asphalt springs in the county. Heavy de- posits of copper are also found. Building stone is abundant. Near the town of Double Springs there are two large quarries of granite. Fine millstone grit is also obtainable. There are now and then traces of silver. These slumbering resources only await the construction of rail- way lines in order to find their way into the markets of the world. The construction of the Georgia Pacific Railroad through Walker county has given new life to Winston. This road is the main ar- tery of communication between the cities of Birmingham and At- lanta. Unusual inducements are thus presented to immigrants and investors. Lands may be purchased at moderate prices, be- ing in proportion to the demand in different sections. They can now be bought in some portions of the county at prices ranging from $3 to |5 per acre; in other sections they will cost from $10 to $25 per acre. The educational advantages of Winston are moderately good and are improving. Church facilities abound in the populated sections. The places of greatest interest are Double Springs (the county seat), Houston, Littlesviile, Motes, Delma, Ark and Larissa. Double Springs derives its name from the remarkable springs which issue from the hillsides in the locality where it is situated. They are famous for their great number, their purity and bold- ness. In the county there are 82,740 acres of government land. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 59 1 WALKER COUNTY. ^I^HE county of Walker was established in 1824. It is at- tracting remarkable attention at this time by reason of its immense resources of coal. From present indications, -im Walker is the richest of all tbe counties of the State in its mineral deposits. It seems to be almost an unbroken coal field from limit to limit. The coal is of a hard, bituminous character with but small percentage of ash. Various geological reports point to the existence of five or six valuable seams, which lie in successive layers one above another. There are various outcrop- pings, indicating from the surface, seams of superior coal which vary in thickness from two to eight feet. These coals are valu- able for domestic, cooking and steam purposes. Remoteness of transportation has forbidden the establishment of mines in the past, but the construction of the Georgia Pacific is awakening new life, and the completion of the Sheffield & Birmingham, and the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham railroads, running from Kansas City to the Atlantic, has greatly enhanced the value of Walker county lands. The surface of the country is broken, the hills in some places being steep and high. Aside from its mineral possessions, the county has other ad- vantages, as the following data will at once show. Walker county embraces an area of 880 square miles. Population in 1880, 9,479; population in 1890, 16,078. White, 14,422; colored, 1,65(5. Area planted in cotton, 9,466 acres; in corn, 25,169 acres; in oats, 4,524 acres; in wheat, 15 acres; in rye, 10 acres; in tobacco, 41 acres. Cofton Production — 3,211 bales. Like the adjoining county of Winston, the soils of Walker are not remarkable for their fertility, it being in nowise an agricultu- ral county, but adapted almost solely to manufactures. Still, it is not without fertile lands. Snug farms are found in many por- tions of it, and many of its inhabitants have subsisted upon the 60 ALABAMA AS IT IS, productions of their farms since, and even before, the formation of the county. About one-third of the area of Walker is covered with a sandy soil. This land is admirably suited to the production of fruit, which grows here in great abundance, especially such as the hardy fruits — pears, apples, peaches, plume, etc. Fruit trees have been standing in many orchards for a great number of years, and have rarely failed of an annual yield. In other sections of Walker, especially in those lying adjacent to the main streams, there are many thrifty farms, upon which grow, with great readiness, corn, cotton and wheat. This is also true of what are locally termed "the bench lands" • — the plateau regions of the county. Here are many first-class farms, which are easily tilled, and whose cultivation is most re- munerative. Stock-raising is receiving some attention in the county, and the experiments have resulted most gratifyingly. The county is highly flavored with streams, whose rapid and perpetual flow mark them for future usefulness in the manufac- tures. Chief among these are Mulberry Fork, which flows through the southeast, and joins Locust Fork in the south; the Black Water, Sipsey Fork and Lost creeks. These are supplied by numerous tributaries, which drain the county from every quar- ter. As fine timber forests skirt these streams as are found in the northern portion of the State. These embrace the different varieties of oak, post, red and Spanish, together with beech, pop- lar, holly, the gums and short-leaf pine. In the neighborhood of South Lowell, about six miles from Jasper, the county seat, there is a section of long-leaf pine forest, covering an area of about ten miles broad and twenty-five miles long. This superb tract of tim- ber is penetrated by the Black AVater River, the banks of which are lined by thriving manufactories, such as corn, wheat and lum- ber mills and cotton gins. Chief among these thriving enter- prises is the mill of Messrs. Shields, Craig & Carter, which com- bines all the facilities for the manufacture of lumber, doors, blinds, sash and shingles. This is the only factory in the county, and furnishes, to the local trade alone, half a million feet of lum- ber annually. The passage of the Georgia Pacific through the county has ALABAMA AS IT IS. 61 awakened much interest. The Sheffield & Birmingham Eailroad is also a most important thoroughfare. Through these great channels of trade her rich minerals of coal and iron seek outlets to the world beyond. These minerals are considered practically inexhaustible. In the interior of the basin in Walker county is the Jagger's coalbed, which is said to be one of exceeding thick- ness. Throughout the county the educational advantages are moder- ate, and church facilities abound. Both of these improve as one approaches the principal villages. Jasper, the county seat, with a population of 3,000, has good schools and two comfortable church edifices. Holly Grove and South Lowell are also points of interest and growing importance. Like other counties, the resources of which are being rapidly developed, the people of Walker are anxious to have their lands purchased and populated. Great inducements are just now being offered to purchasers of lands, and sagacious investors are not losing the opportunity of turning the occasion to one of profit. In some instances corpora- tions have invested in large districts of these valuable lands at amazingly low prices. Taken in connection with the abundance of fuel and good water, and the absence of any causes which breed disease. Walker offers a home of rare combinations. And, from a commercial point of view, no county offers greater indace- ments than does Walker. But lands which are now held at rea- sonable rates will increase in valuation as the growing population will crystalize into centers of interest and influence. There are embraced within the limits of Walker county 11,200 acres of government land. 62 ALABAMA AS IT IS. CULLMAN COUNTY. HIS is one of the counties latest formed in the State. It was organized in 1877. It has an interesting history which begins as far back as 1873, when John G. Cullman became the agent for the sale of a vast tract of land be- longing to the South & North Alabama Kailroad, now the Louis- ville & Nashville. Placing these lands upon the market in Janu- ary, 1873, Mr. Cullman, himself a German, induced a small Ger- man colony to locate upon them. At this time the lands were uncleared and seemed to ofPer but meagre inducements to settlers. But the tide of German population has continued to flow in until it is one of the most populous districts in that section of the State. The county has an area of about 650 square miles. Population in 1880, 6,355; in 1890, 13,439. White, 13,401; colored, 38. The population will now reach 13,500. Area planted in cotton, 15,992 acres; in corn, 20,808 acres; in oats, 4,035 acres; in wheat, 351 acres; in rye, 147 acres; in tobacco, 35 acres. Cotton Production — About 730 bales. In appearance the lands are among the thinnest of the State. But energy and enterprise have revealed the fact that they are quite generous in their yield when aided, to some extent, with fertilizers. For the most part, the white sandy surface has a deep, stiff subsoil of clay. The sandy surface is easy of cultiva- tion. The soils, when properly manipulated, never fail to re- spond well to fertilizers. The county is one broad mountain plateau and is consequently almost without exception level. Crops of nearly every variety are produced upon these lands, such as corn, cotton, wheat, rye, barley, oats, buckwheat, hemp, tobacco, flax, sorghum, broom corn, sweet and Irish potatoes, hops, millet, peanuts, clover and other grasses, and garden vegetables. Fre- quently three crops in rotation can be raised in a single season. The large German population has addressed itself mainly to the culture of the different varieties of grapes, and for leagues in ALABAMA AS IT IS. 63 some directions the lands are overspread with the most luxuriant vintage. Throughout the county there are vast stretches of forest suffi- cient for building and manufacturing purposes. Orchards of excellent fruit tiees abound. Among the fruits produced are apples, pears, peaches, apricots, strawberries and German prunes, while wild grapes, plums and berries grow abundantly. In several portions of Cullman are found iron and coal. Lead and silver have also been discovered. Both on the east and west there are large streams which bound the county — the Mulberry Fork on the east and the Sipsey Fork on the west. The county is drained by these large streams. An abundance of water exists. Because of its elevation and other sanitary advantages, Cullman is said to be one of the healthiest sections in the United States. Epidemics are unknown here, and local sickness is quite rare. The heat of summer is not oppressive, and the nights throughout the warm season are pleasantly cool. The town of Cullman is a point of great interest. Ten years ago there was scarcely the trace of a town to be seen. Now there is a population of perhaps 2,200 with good hotels, mills, wagon factories, blacksmith shops, a lime-kiln and brick-yard, barrel manufactories, and furniture factories. Here are to be found good school and church facilities. The town is located directly upon the great Louisville & Nashville Railway system, which gives it advantages with New Orleans on the south and Louisville and Cincinnati on the north. People in large numbers come from all the surrounding country to do their trading with the merchants of Cullman. The prices of land in Cullman county vary with their distance from the railroad. By reason of its remarkable healthfulness and diversity of industrial interests. Cullman county presents more than ordinary inducements to the immigrant or investor. Cullman county sufficiently indicates what may be done by a vigorous, wide-awake colony. And its handsome farms and land- scapes of vintage abundantly show what an amazing transforma- tion can be produced by a thrifty colony whose efforts are intelligently directed. And in addition still, the county clearly 64 ALABAMA AS IT IS. demonstrates the capabilities of lands that have long been regarded by our people as possessing small worth. To have glanced over the sand-colored district where the bust- ling little city of Cullman now is, prior to its settlement by the German colony, one would have thought its lands too thin and barren to respond even to the most irksome toil, and the most careful fertilization. But under the direction of skilled owners, it has proved to be one of the most desirable sections of Alabama. The population is contented and prosperous, and is being, from time to time, increased by new acquisitions, both from America and Europe. In addition to the many cheap lands found in Cullman county there are 15,000 acres of land belonging to the government. BLOUNT COUNTY. ^^HIS county was formed in 1818, and named in honor of ™, Governor Wm. G. Blount, of Tennessee. It is noted for the abundance of its minerals, the diversity of its soils, the variety of its productions and mineral waters. In its progress it is keeping pace with the surrounding counties, and is ranked among the best in the State. Its area is 700 square miles. Population in 1880, 15,369; population in 1890, 21,927. White, 20,155; colored, 1,772. Area planted in cotton, 28;532 acres; in corn, 37,771 acres; in oats, 10,175 acres; in wheat, 1,329 acres; in rye, 39 acres; in tobacco, 28 acres; cotton production, 9,748 bales. The face of the country in Blount is rather peculiar. It is penetrated through the center by a plateau which occupies a belt from eight to ten miles in width. On one side of this mountain plateau, running parallel with it, is Murphree's Valley, while on the opposite side is Brown's Valley. Aloug this belt of plateau are found excellent farming lands, which have been wonderfully assisted during the last few years by the moderate use of fertili- ALABAMA AS IT IS. 65 zer8. Cotton grows most readily upon this broad upland, especially if a little assisted with fertilizers. Because of the greater ease of cultivation, the farmers of the county have come, in many instances, to prefer these elevated soils to those of the valleys for cotton producing purposes. As pasture lauds these cannot be excelled in the county. There is a combination of elements here that favor the raising of stock, among which may be mentioned an adequate supply of water and soils favorable to the growth of clovers and grasses. Perhaps a better section than this plateau can not be found in Alabama for the production of fruits. As fine apples and peaches grow here as are produced in the South. Indeed, Blount has the reputation of being the best apple-growing section on the continent. The character of the climate is such as to favor a certain crop almost annually. It is very rare that the fruit crop is cut off by frosts. The valley lands are intrinsically more fertile than those which lie along the broad plateau. The soils of both the valleys are, in some instances, as rich as those which belong to the famous Tennessee Valley. Even along these valleys there are flinty ridges which break the evenness of the lands, out between these exist the most productive soils. The most of the cotton raised in Blount is grown upon the loamy valleys. In addition to corn and cotton, the county produces oats, wheat, tobacco, sweet potatoes, rye and sorghum. It has for several years produced a great deal of wool, and as stock-raising increases, there is no doubt that this product will correspondingly increase. The main streams of Blount are Mulberry, Locust and Black- burn Forks, and Big Spring Creek. The principal timbers are beech, walnut, poplar, sycamore, post and Spauish oaks, hickory, wild cherry, pine and black-gum. The county took the premium at the Atlanta Exposition for the largest and tiuest specimens of wild cherry. Vast districts of th© county are overspread with forests of timber. Transportation is afforded through the medium of the great Louisville & Nashville Railroad, which traverses it from the north to the south. Another railroad is in contemplation and is ex- pected soon to be built from Birmingham to Guntersville on the 66 ALABAMA AS IT IS. Tennessee River. This road will penetrate the heart of the famous Murphree's Valley, and along its route, from one terminal point to the other, will prevail vast deposits both of coal and iron. The road will prove of incalculable advantage to the population residing in the region through which it will pass. Such is the attractiveness of this region that it will serve speedily to allure a population as soon as its resources of mine and soil are known. Excellent school and church facilities exist in almost every por- tion of the county. Blountsville, the seat of justice, Bangor, Summit, Hanceville and Garden City are places of importance. Both at Blountsville and Bangor there are colleges of local im- portance. The industries of the county are varied. Extensive limeworks are seen at Blount Springs. Limestone dug from the quarries here is daily shipped in large quantities to Birmingham, whpire the manufacturers hold it in repute above any other avail- able limestone. It prevails in inexhaustible stores in hills about Blount Springs. Coal and iron are abundant in the county- Petroleum is also found. Enjoying, as it does, facilities for transportation to the markets of the South, North and all points in the far Northwest, nothing prevents Blount from taking rank with the foremost counties of the State. Blount Springs, situated immediately upon the Louisville & Nashville Railroad, is the favorite waterlog place of Alabama. These famous springs are 130 miles north of Montgomery, and are embosomed in the most picturesque mountain scenery. The waters are especially adapted to the cure of scrofula, rheuma- tism, dyspepsia and all affections of the bladder and urinary organs. Here, as in the adjoining counties which lie along the railroad, the value of the lands diminishes as they recede from the line of communication. Land can be purchased in the county at prices ranging from $5 to $35 per acre. There are 5,140 acres of Government land in Blount county. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 67 JEFFERSON COUNTY. ^^^ HIS county leads all the other counties of the Mineral Belt in the development of its resources and in the pro- gress which it is making in the manufactures. For several years past it has been a scene of bustle and business, extensive mining and manufacturing interests having sprung into existence in every part of the county. By reason of its advancement, it is annually attracting to itself yet other agencies which contribute to its growth. Every year it takes a new stride forward, and its county-seat, Birmingham, is destined to be one of the leading mflnufacturing centers of the South. Jefferson county has an area of 960 square miles. Population in 1880, 32,272; population in 1890, 88,501; white, 56,334; colored, 32,167. Area planted in cotton, 11,790 acres; in corn, 30,398 acres; in oats, 7,708 acres; in wheat, 316 acres; in rye, 1 acre; in to- bacco, 7 acres; cotton production, 4,829 bales. Jefferson county is cut into two unequal divisions by a long, narrow valley which traverses it from northeast to southwest. Dirtctly northwest of this valley, and embracing nearly two- thirds of the territory of the county, are the coal measures of the great Warrior coalfield, while in the southern part of the county are the coal measures of the Cahaba field. Here, as elsewhere, the soil is dependent upon the character of the under- lying rock — increasing or diminishing in richness with the fer- tility or sterility of rocks beneath. In the main, the soil in these regions is of moderate fertility. The surface of the county is broken and often mountainous. Upon the table-lands the soil is moderately productive, while in the valleys it is quite rich. Along the slopes are grown the grasses and cereals, while the valleys are largely devoted to the production of corn and cotton. Jones Valley is regarded the richest section of the county. It has a mulatto soil based upon a red clay subsoil. Along this valley 68 ALABAMA AS IT IS. ALABAMA A8 IT IS. 69 are found prevailing limestone springs, the waters of which are pure, clear and cold. The productions of the county are cotton, corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye, potatoes (sweet and Irish), and peanuts. Garden vegetables of every possible variety thrive almost the year around. The fruits which are grown in Jefferson county have made Birm- ingham one of the leading fruit markets of the State. Peaches, apples, plums, pears, apricots, pomegranates and grapes are raised in great profusion, and mature to perfection even with indolent culture. Vast sums of money are annually accumulated by fruit growers and vegetable producers in the country surrounding Birm- ingham. There is scarcely an industry manipulated by man but has an existence in the county of Jefferson. Stock-raising is receiving attention and will grow apace with the years, as the soil and climate favor the production of grasses and clovers, and the numerous competing railway lines will fur- nish the speediest transportation to the most favorable markets of the continent. In addition to this, the county is well watered. Locust Fork of the Black Water River flows through the north- west, receiving Five Mile, Village and Valley creeks. The southern and southeastern parts of the county are drained through Shades' Creek, which flows into the Cahaba River. In every section are to be found forests of pine, oak, ash, hickory, elm, walnut and other valuable woods. The mineral products of the county are simply marvelous. From present indications the resources of the county will not be exhausted for centuries to come. Mammoth fortunes have been dug from the rocky hills, and yet they seem barely touched ^by the invading pick-axe. Coal and iron seem to abound in exhaust- less quantities. A better estimate of the abundance of these minerals will be had by glancing at the following table of local industries in and about the Magic City, Birmingham: Pratt Coal & Coke Company's mines are situated six miles northwest of Birmingham; population about 5,000; capacity, 3,000 tons per diem ; employs over 1,000 men and boys. This is the most extensively worked mine in Alabama. Colonel E. Ens- ley, President. ALABAMA AS IT IS. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 71 Miner Coal & Iron Company; eight miles northeast; capacity 1,000 tons per day; employs 500 men. Eureka Iron Company, Oxmoor, six miles south; population exceeds 1,500; furnace number one, capacity, 60 tons per day; furnace number two, capacity, 100 tons per day; employs about 600 men. Wheeling, Alabama; eight miles southwest; capacity of fur- nace, 125 tons daily; employs 350 men, and has six miles of rail- road to mines. The New Castle Coal & Coke Company, twelve miles above Birmingham ; number of men employed and capacity not given ; daily output, about 500 tons. Alice Furnace Company; furnace number one, 70 tons capacity daily; furnace number two, 125 tons capacity daily; employs more than 500 men; capital, |500,000; T. T. Hillman, President. SIoss Furnace Company ; furnace number one, 80 tons capacity daily; furnace number two, 125 tons capacity daily; employs 600 men; capital, $500,000; J. W. Sloss,- President. Mary Pratt Furnace ; DeBardaleben & Underwood, proprietors ; charcoal iron furnace; capacity, 60 tons per day; employs 500 men. Birmingham Rolling Mills Company; twenty- four puddling furnaces, muck mill, merchant bar, large mill and guide mill; employs 450 to 500 men, double turn. Southern Mining & Transportation Company; capacity, 1,000 tons per day; employs 500 men. Birmingham Cotton INEiils; capital stock, |50,000; use 3,250 spindles, 15 carders and 6 warping mills; employs 70 operators; J. H. Lockhart, President. Magic City Iron Works; foundry and machine shop; employ 100 men; Beggs & Son, proprietors, who also conduct a planing, mill and sash and blind factory. Linn Iron Works; manufacture engines, boilers, and all kinds of furnace, mill and plantation machinery; employ 150 to 200 men. Jefferson Iron Works; same as above; employ about 200 men. W. P. Brewer; manufactures lumber, sash, doors, blinds and furniture; employs 65 to 100 men. 72 ALABAMA AS IT IS. The Louisville & Nashville Railroad Company's workshops at Birmingham give employment to over 1,000 men. The Georgia Pacific Railway Company employs about 500 men; the Alabama Great Southern and various mineral roads give em- ployment to perhaps 500 additional. It has besides the furnaces and industries already named the following enterprises: The largest and best equipped rolling mills south of Richmond, making iron rails and all sorts of bar, plate and sheet-iron — being the only mills in the South that makes sheet-iron — and selling their product ail over the South, West and Northwest. Eight foundries and machine shops, making from blowing en- gines for furnaces down — machinery, steam-pumps, cast-pipe, jail- cells, railroad-frogs, switches and turn-tables, and all manner of small castings. Bridge-works, two in number, one of which makes bolts and nuts also. A chain factory, the first in the South. A stove foundry, making also grates and plumbers' pipe. Another in course of construction, for which the capital comes from Louisville, and which will probably be the largest in the South. Outside of iron there are these enterprises in the city: A gin factory, a cotton compress, now building; an agricultural imple- ment factory, an ice factory, the capacity, of which is to be increased from fifteen to forty-five tons a day; another under way; a brewery, a large flouring mill, pipe works, the largest consumer of pig iron in the South, taking the entire product of two large furnaces — the first venture of Pittsburo: manufacturers in Ala- bama; elevator and hoisting machinery works, a tool factory, a very large stove concern. The manufacture of the finest steel has been undertaken with the same success which has characterized every other institution established at this point. It would be practically impossible within the space allotted to Jefferson county to indicate the nu- merous industries large and small, prevailing within and about Birmingham. This great city, which is alike the wonder of the resident and visitor, will no doubt in ten years have drawn to itself a popula- tion of 70,000. In addition to its mammoth industries which are ALABAMA AS IT IS. 73 74 ALABAMA AS IT IS. barely hinted at above, the city can boast of as handsome resi- dences and hotels as any city in the South. Its public school buildings, its handsome church edifices, its street railway system, its electric lights and attractive public parks show that the city is not wholly engrossed with the spirit o£ accumulation of gain. As one passes along the spacious streets and broad avenues, he is struck with amazement at every step, when he remembers that only a few years ago the spot which it now occupies was a cast- away old field. While Col. McClure of the Philadelphia Times was en rouie to the New Orleans Exposition, three years ago, he wrote thus concerning Birmingham : "Three trunk railway lines cross each other in this city, giving it the best railway facilities of any interior Southern center, ex- cepting those of Atlanta. These lines, extending by main routes to the gulf, to the coast, to the east, to the lakes, and to the west, and reaching every part of the country by their connections and tributaries, furnish rare facilities for the development of the wealth that abounds here; and new and important railway lines are soon to be added to them. And when it is considered that as railway outlets multiply, the great river highway of the Warrior will be hastened to completion, the business possibilities of this region would seem increditable to the North, even when cautiously stated. Through the kindness of the Mayor and the President of the Board of Trade, I was enabled to visit and thoroughly ex- amine the great coal mines and iron establishments which have created Birmingham, and the universal activity and unerring signs of prosperous operations present a marked contrast with our coal and iron regions in the North. "There is a furnace here on a farm that furnishes everything necessary to make iron — the iron ore, coal, limestone and sand — but the great beds of iron, coal and limestone are in a radius of four or five miles. That these exhaustless sources of wealth in such close proximity must soon defy competition in the product of the ordinary iron, I regard as no longer a doubtful problem ; but it is yet doubtful whether the competition can extend to the better qualities of iron and steel. The manufacture of steel has ALABAMA AS IT IS. 75 not been attempted as yet, and while it is claimed that it will soon be produced here at the same relative cost as iron and equal in quality to the steel of Pennsylvania, I feel no assurance that it can be doue at all. The faith of the iron men of Birmiugfham is so strong in its resources that they confidently claim everything for it possessed by any other iron district of theiworld, even to the blades of Damascus; but here, as elsewhere iu all the world, there will be material limitations upon the perfection of iron products." Since that time the change has been so great that the distin- guished Philadelphiau would scarcely recognize the same city could he visit it now. The city limits have been greatly extended, the most expensive and attractive buildings have been erected, the population has been vastly increased, extensive dummy lines have been established so as to reach out in every possible direc- tion, extending sometimes the distance of fifteen miles, important railroads have been built and large suburban interests have grown up. Instead of the three railway trunk lines, to which allusion is made, there are now five, viz: Louisville & Nashville, Queen & Crescent, Georgia Pacific, Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham, and Columbus & Western. Besides these there are extensions from the great systems which penetrate the regions adjacent to Birmingham in all directions. About Birmingham, as a common center, there have sprung up many SUBURBAN TOWNS. Among these may be mentioned Avondale, with a population of 2,000, with its furnaces, stove-works and other improvements. Its connection with the city is by rail, street car and dummy lines. Woodlawn is another town which, by its healthful and attrac- tive location and its railroad facilities, has won the admiration of all visitors. It is about four miles east of Birmingham, has a population of 1,500, and is situated upon the Alabama Great Southern, Georgia Pacific, and Columbus & Western railroads. By dummy line, passage to the city may be secured every few minutes. It is most attractive as a place of residence. Between the two last named points is located the Birmingham Safe and Lock Factory. 76 ALABAMA AS IT IS. East Ijake, six miles distant from the city, is a most pic- turesque town, which shows alike the undulations of the foot hills of the neighboring mountains and the grassy smoothness of Ru- hama Valley. Its water is from crystal mountain springs, pure and healthful. It has a charming artificial lake of thirty acres, handsome residences, and is the location of Howard College — the Baptist institution of the State, and the Atheneum, a superior col- lege for girls and young women. It has connection with Birm- ingham by dummy transit. It is being rapidly peopled by an in- telligent population, attracted hither largely by the excellent edu- cational advantages enjoyed. Lake View is a resort for rest and pleasure, though it has an excellent school for the education of young women, being provided with an immense hotel, a romantic artificial lake, for boating and bathing purposes, and extensive grounds for out-door sports. Bessemer. This is a city of scarcely more than a year's growth. It is situ- ated upon the Alabama Great Southern Railroad of the Queen & Crescent system, and is about fourteen miles southwest of Birm- ingham. Already it has a population of 2,500, and its broad and well graded streets, its attractive architecture, its furnaces and adjacent mines, and its dummy and railway system give promise of vast possibilities. Several railway lines are already projected, and it is believed that they will be speedily constructed. The transportation facilities of the county are unexcelled, as it is penetrated by five of the grand railway thoroughfares of the South, viz: Louisville & Nashville, Alabama Great Southern, the Kansas City, Memphis & Birmingham, the Georgia Pacific and the Columbus & Western. Other important lines are being turned in this direction, and some of these will seek Birmingham as a terminal point. Besides these there are many extensions from the main trunk lines. Excellent church and educational advantages prevail in all the points named in the county, while throughout the country dis- tricts a common school system is sustained. ALABAMA AS IT IS. 77 UJ < -I 1- co < LU < 78 ALABAMA AS IT IS. SOUTHERN FEMALE UNIVERSITY. The Southern Female University, situated at Lakeview, Bir- mingham, Ala., is 150 feet above the city, elegantly furnished, heated by steam, electric lights and electric bells. Supplied throughout with pure water. Boats of latest improvemeot on lake for use of pupils. Beautiful lawn tennis grounds. Finest Natatorium in the country. Chalybeate spring water, equal to those of Virginia and Germany. Over twenty States represented this scholastic year. Faculty first-class in every particular. Moral tone of school is all that could be desired. EAST LAKE ATHENEUM. The East Lake Atheneum is a college founded by Dr. Solomon Palmer for the higher education of young ladies. It is situated at East Lake, a delightful residence suburb of Birmingham, with which it has reliable communication by dummies every thirty minutes. It was chartered with ample powers by the Legislature of 1890-91. It did not secure its new and handsome building until 1892-93. This building as shown here is one of the prettiest in the State, and occu- pies a commanding site on Atheneum Eminence, which overlooks the city six miles dis- tant and all the surrounding country. The building is con- structed of stone taken from a quarry not a mile distant, and of pressed bricks. It is heated throughout by steam and has a chapel, recitation, dining and bed rooms, to accommodate 150 or 200 pupils. In fact it has averaged an enrollment of two hundred pupils ever since founded in 1890. It has some ten or twelve regular teachers all experienced and specially fitted for the work required of them. Besides the literary department special facilities are offered for music, both instrumental and vocal, art, elocution and stenography. The ALABAMA AS IT IS. 79 Atheneum will soon be one of the leading educational institutions of the South. LANDS. Lands may be purchased in the county for prices ranging from $2.50 to $50 per acre. Much as the inhabitants are engaged in the development of this amazing section, they are never unmind- ful of the stranger seeking a home in their midst. Government lands exist in Jefferson county to the extent of 9,920 acres of mineral lands. ' SHELBY COUNTY. ^HE county of Shelby was constituted in the year 1818. It MP received its name from Governor Isaac Shelby, of Ken- tucky. It is highly favored in location, climate and min- eral wealth. It is justly ranked as one of the best coun- ties of the State. Of late, rapid strides have been made in Shel- by county in the development of her mineral wealth. Large in- terests of many kinds have been established and are in a thrifty condition. It has an area of 780 square miles. Population in 1880, 17,236 ; population in 1890, 20,886. White, 14,289; colored, 6,597. Area planted in cotton, 17,392 acres; in corn, 24,418; in oats, 5,955 acres; in wheat, 536 acres; in tobacco, 10 acres; in rye, 13 acres. Cotton production — 7,238 bales. The general surface of Shelby county is hilly and rough — feat- ures inseparable from a mineral district. Still, there are many valuable lands, for agricultural purposes, to be found. The north- western portion of the county is formed by the coal measures of the famous Cahaba coal field; the central part by thoee of the Coosa coal field. Lying between these two natural divisions is the valley of the Coosa. Along these coal measures is to bo found the usual rugged surface, and the soil is of a sandy character and 80 ALABAMA AS IT IS. not very fertile. The Coosa Valley, which extends the distance of thirty miles through the county, is based upon mountain lime- stone. It varies in width from two to eight miles. The lower valley lands, formed of lime, clay and vegetable matter, are quite fertile; the higher lands of gravel and clay are of inferior char- acter. The lands in the valleys are esteemed altogether as good as those found in the famous Valley of the Tennessee. Corn and cotton grow luxuriantly here, and their yield, under favoring cir- cumstances, is immense. In addition to these, Shelby produces oats, wheat, rye,' barley, and indeed all crops grown in this lati- tude. Some portions of the county are peculiarly adapted to stock-raising. This is especially true of the region lying west of the valley already described. On the western boundary of the county is the Cahaba Valley, the width of which varies as does that of the Coosa upon the «^ast. The characteristics of soil are the same as in the valley first men- tioned — fertile in the bottoms and thin and gravelly upon the highlands. The conditions in many portions of Shelby are quite favorable to the production of fruit, and orchard culture is receiving, by degrees, more attention. The prevailing timbers are oak, hickory, chestnut, mulberry and pine. Along the numerous valleys that intersect each other throughout the county is to be found the short-leaf pine; while the knolls and uplands are crowned with the long-leaf pine. Dur- ing the greater part of the year water prevails in vast abundance in every section of the county. The Coosa river forms the eastern boundary and receives the drainage of that portion of Shelby. Big and Little Cahaba Bivers drain the western part. Springs abound throughout the county. Issuing from beneath the pine-crowned ridges, that lie between the minor intersecting valleys, or else bursting from thousands of craggy mouths from the rocky hillsides, these springs flow down through the valleys in perennial streams, supplying water in richest abundance to man and beast. But the peculiar glory of Shelby is her broad domains of coal and iron, her vast treasures of stone, and her health-giving min- ALABAMA AS IT IS, 81 eral waters. Extensive manufactories of iron exist at the Shelby Iron Works, which have been in successful operation for thirty years, and at Helena, where are located the Central Iron Works. In addition to these interests are found the Helena coal mines, and the Montevallo coal mines. Furthermore, there are consid- erable lime works at Calera, Siluria and Longview, in the county. Some of these furnish lime as far south as Galveston, and as far north as Louisville and Cairo. Between Shelby Springs and the Coosa River is an extensive slate formation which, when ex- plored, will no doubt furnish fine roofing slate in abundance. In some of the limestone formations are to be found as superb building stone as exists in any quarter of the globe. Among these may be mentioned a light grayish-blue rock, dotted over with dark spots, black marble, yellow marble with black spots, gray and dove-colored marbles. These are quite durable, and serve admir- ably as ornamental building material. In the mountains, between the upper portion of Shelby and the St. Clair portion of the Caha- ba Valley, there is, in wonderful abundance, a beautiful sandstone that would serve for building purposes. Barytes and slate also exist. Just above Calera, on the East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad are the Shelby Springs, a favorite watering resort. The location is high and healthful, and the waters have valuable medicinal properties. The advantages of transportation in the county are excellent. At Calera there is an intersection of the Louisville & Nashville Railroad, and the East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia Railroad. The former of these lines runs north and south through the county, and the other almost east and west. All the benefits ac- cruing from competing lines are here afforded. The points of greatest interest in the county are Columbiana, the county seat, with a population of about 800; Calera, which is located at the intersection of the two railroads already men- tioned ; Wilsonville, Harpersville, Helena, Montevallo and Shelby> population 1,200. This is the most thriving place in the county. It has two large furnaces and a number of prosperous business houses. Excellent church and educational facilities exist at all 5 82 ALABAMA AS IT IS. these points, A common school system under favorable direc- tion exists throughout the county. The chief center of interest in the county is the growing town of Calera. Its name is of Spanish origin, and indicates the char- acter of the surrounding region. Calera being the Spanish word for lime. It has a population possibly of 1,200, and for a num- ber of years has been the location of a large foundry. The town supports good schools and churches, and has one of the best hotels in the State. It is located in the midst of coal, iron, lime and excellent timber, and enjoys railroad facilities in all directions, being at the intersection of the Louisville