LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DD0DS43fl3flA -/ "> '*^ 8 1 "c^. .^0^ '^^ >^ -...,v ^ 6' - ^ y/- V ^^ r.%^' 'o. .^-^ "i ^oe, .^" r ^V ^^ ^^. ^^, ^. oxV % /\ ^A V x^^,. THE CRUISE STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR; A NARRATIVE OF THE Crciioiait af Ulr. f aiikiiilt'B f art| ENGLAND, RUSSIA, DENMARK, FRANCE, SPAIN, ITALY, MALTA, TURKEY, MADEIRA. ETC. BY th: KEY. JOHN OVERTON CHOULES. D. D.. AUTHOR OK TOK " HISTORY OF MISSION'S." " YOCNG AMERICANS ABROAD," ETC. BOSTON: GOULt) ANJJ LINCOLN NEW YORK: EVANS AND DICKERSON. 1854. I> D^ 1^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by GOULD & LINCOLN, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts Stereotyped by eOBART & ROBBINS, NEW ENGLAND TYPE -» ND STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY, BOSTON. Printed by Geo. C. Rand, No. 3 Cornhill. So GEORGE PEABODY, ESQ., THE HONORED AND PATKIOTIC REPRESENTATIVE OF AMERICAN PRINCIPLES IN LONDON, MADE BT AN AMERICAN MERCHANT, BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND, J. O. CHOULES. 4d,^iikdi In 1. S i^in^'T.ioT, Jrfrm,- n- J).,jjv>'rrr^,A'p'>' / C(0)]IimE]LnLTS TAK3D)]E]raBIIL.T PREFACE I HAD the opportunity afforded me, by an indulgent con- gregation, to spend the summer of 1851 in Europe ; and, on my return, I published a small volume (on which I was aided by three young friends and pupils, who were the com- panions of my tour), entitled " Young Americans Abroad, or Vacation in Europe." This had a favorable reception by the public, and has passed into a fourth edition and been reprinted in London. I had no idea that I should again revisit the Old World ; or, at least, supposed that many years would elapse ere such a gratification could be enjoyed. Last February my valued friend, Mr. Vanderbilt, in- formed me that he proposed in May to take his family on a voyage to the principal seaports of Europe, in a steam yacht then building for that purpose ; and he most kindly 1* VI PREFACE. invited me to be his guest. I saw no way by whicli I could accept his generous proposition consistently with the duties which I owed to my church and congregation ; but, with a spirit of liberality and affection which I can never forget, they urged my acceptance of so fine an occasion to visit portions of the world rarely accessible to American tourists J and I concluded to joui the party. My friends generally suggested that the excursion would afford suf- ficient interest to warrant a record. My excellent pub- lishers, Messrs. Gould and Lincoln, at once claimed a volume ; and, finding that my fellow- voyagers wished for a memorial of our four happy months spent in the North Star, I have consented to chronicle the movements of the most agreeable association of my life. I know that books of Travels have multiplied of late with fearful rapidity ; but still the vast amount of readers in our country creates a steady demand for such publications. A book of travels that contains reliable and interestino; information has a good tendency. I remember with pleas- ure my own boyish gratification in reading Mavor's fine collection of voyages and travels ; that set of books gave a turn to my future life, and a large share of my happiness P HE F A C E . Vn may be traced back to the influences produced on my mind by the perusal of such works. It is a great thing to excite the intellect of a lad in a right direction. When I was about nine years of age, I used to pass many delicious hours in a cobbler's stall, not eight feet square, listening to his stories about the American revolutionary war, and the wars of the English and French in Canada. I made my earliest acquaintance with Lake George, Ticonderoga and Niagara Falls, by the side of the old man's lapstone, whilst he told me how fields were won; and Cobbler Hunt's stories about Indians and lakes, beavers and buffaloes, swans and flamingoes, had much to do with creating a desire to know more of the scenes of his exploits and adventures. This world is full of beauty, and it teems with wonders ; and I never see a fresh portion of God's earth, but I feel some respect for the old gentleman's opinion, who, on going from Maine to Albany for the first time that he had left his native state, declared, on his return, that the world was more extensive than he had supposed. There is much to see wherever we turn, if our eyes are opened. All men have their own peculiar taste ; and in a party of three or four visiting a foreign city, each member of it will see things in a different point of light. I believe that few VIII PREFACE. persons have enjoyed so fine an opportunity to visit the coast of Europe as we had who formed the North Star party ; and I hope that a plain narrative of the excursion, which has excited so much interest at home and abroad, may prove useful and entertaining. Those of our country- men who were in Europe this summer are well aware that the presence of the steam yacht in foreign ports was to them the occasion of justifiable pride ; while to foreigners she was the fruitful theme of admiration and reflection. John Overton Choules. Newport, R. L, Jan. 9, 1854. €antn\is. CHAPTER I. ORIGIN OP THE YACHT VOYAGE — VARIOUS IDEAS AS TO ITS OBJECT — MR. VANDERBILT'S EXACT ARRANGEMENT DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR HER INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE, ETC. COMMANDER ASA ELDRIDGE, ESQ. — OFFICERS AND CREW, 17 CHAPTER II. READY TO SAIL — ALL ON BOARD 19 MAY — YACHT RUNS ON A REEF — NAVY -YARD AND DRY DOCK REPAIRS SOON MADE DEPARTURE 20 MAY PILOT LEFT YACHT MUSTER-ROLL OP THE PARTY FAMILY WORSHIP EMOTIONS OP VOYAGERS SAFETY, NOT SPEED, THE RULE STRIKE OP FIREMEN — GREEN HANDS DIVINE SERVICE LAND-BIRD CONCERTS GREAT RUN OP THREE HUNDRED AND FORTY-FOUR MILES — COMFORT AND LUXURY OF VOYAGE — MR. VANDERBILT'S COURTESY — PILOT CHANNEL, 25 CHAPTER III. SOUTHAMPTON SCENERY — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS — STEAM PACKET COMPANIES HIGH-STREET AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL, MR. COX DOCKS STEAMERS REV. THOMAS ADKINS ARRIVE IN LONDON QUEEN 'S DRAWING-ROOM — OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY, ETC. — HYDE PARK — KEN- SINGTON GARDENS regent's PARK VISITS TO WESTMINSTER AND OTH- ER PUBLIC PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON COURT BRISTOL CLIi'TON AND VICINAGE TINTERN HENBURY AND COTTAGES LOCAL SCENERY BERKELEY CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH COUNTRl SCENERY, . . . .* 33 CONTENTS, CHAPTER IV. HON. AND KEV. BAPTIST NOEL — MB. GEOKGE PEABODY — OPERA — DINNER AT RICHMOND HON. STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT AT HON. J. B. INGERSOLL'S, THE AMERICAN MINISTER THE LORD MAY- OR'S SOIREE — MR. DEPUTY BENOCH — THOMAS PRICE, LL.D. — TOOVEY'S BOOKSTORE — DEPUTATION PROM SOUTHAMPTON TONE OP ENGLISH FEELING TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER STREET AMUSEMENTS — SCENE IN AN OMNIBUS, 46 CHAPTER V. INTEREST EXCITED BY ARRIVAL OF THE NORTH STAR — LONDON DAILY NEWS DULWICH GALLERY MR. THOMAS COLLEY GRATTAN A QUICK TRIP TO LEIPSIC OUR RETURN TO SOUTHAMPTOJI VISIT TO NETLEY ABBEY HISTORICAL NOTICE SCENERY REV. DR. KREBBS EXCUR- SIONS — REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN — SERVICES OP THE SABBATH, 67 CHAPTER VI. JUNE 13, THE BANQUET AT SOUTHAMPTON — CARD OF INVITATION — AP- PEARANCE OF TOWN VICTORIA ROOMS MAYOR DINNER ACCOUNT OF PROCEEDINGS AND SPEECHES IN THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT EXCURSION OF THE NORTH STAR, WITH THE MAYOR AKft) INVITED GUESTS, ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT DINNER ON BOARD ACCOUNT TAKEN FROM THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT, 69 CHAPTER VII. VOYAGE — COAST OP NORWAY — KBONBORG CASTLE AND ELSINORE — SHIPS IN THE SOUND COPENHAGEN BOBNHOLM AND OLAND ISLANDS DR. LINSLY MIRAGE — DAGO ISLAND STEAMER NEPTUNE CRONSTADT FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING PUBLIC BUILDINGS CHOLERA PETERHOFP WOODS VAUXHALL HOTEL MARLY AND MONTPLAISIB — PETER THE GREAT HIS HOUSE — FURNITURE COTTAGE OF CATHE- RINE A BIDE THROUGH THE GROUNDS WATER-WORKS, ETC. PETER- HOFF IMPERIAL PALACE IMPERIAL YACHT, AND GRAND DUKE CONSTAN- TINE — ADMIRAL GLASSENOFF — MR. MULLEB — MINIATURE PALACE — COSSACKS, 108 CONTENTS. Xi CHAPTER VIII. SMALL STEAMER — DRESS OP OFFICERS — VIEW OP ST. PETERSBURQ — Ql PROCESSION HOTELS POLITENESS -^ MR. ROPES, U. S. CONSUL SUM- MER ISLANDS PETER THE GREAT'S FIRST HOUSE — THE CITY ADMI- RALTY — STATUE OP PETER NEFFSKY PERSPECTIVE SERFS VIEW OP CITY BY MOONLIGHT WINTER PALACE AND ITS DEPARTMENTS — RE- GALIA THE HERMITAGE PAINTINGS OP DIFFERENT SCHOOLS THE LOGGiE — Peter's museum — precious stones — horologe — wreaths AND laurels prom CHERSONESUS MARBLE PALACE ALEXANDER PIL- LAR MR. EVANS MONASTERY OP ALEXANDER NEFFSKY ENGLISH CHURCH — KESAU CATHEDRAL — ITS INTERIOR AND SERVICE — ISAAC CHURCH, 121 CHAPTER IX. MAJOR THOMPSON BROWN — DROSKYS WEDDING — GOSTINNOI DVOR STREETS MILITARY FAREWELL TO ST. PETERSBURG RETURN TO THE YACHT — VISITORS — REGATTA — CRONSTADT — MR. WILKINS — DANGEROUS POSITION — VISIT PROM GRAND DUCHESS OP OLDENBURGH AND FAMILY — STEAMBOAT PARTY AND IMPERIAL BAND — THE EMPEROR QUEEN DOWAGER OP HOLLAND — NARROW ESCAPE, 141 .CHAPTER X. VOYAGE — COPENHAGEN — THORWALDSEN'S MUSEUM — FRUEKIRKE — THOR- WALDSEN'8 CHRIST AND HIS APOSTLES — THE SCULPTOR — ROSENBERGH PALACE — ITS RICH COLLECTIONS OP ART — COINS AND MEDALS — PARK — STATUARY — COUNTRY — EXCHANGE — GALLERIES — AMALIENBORQ PLADS — SONG OP THE WATCHMAN, 149 CHAPTER XI. OFF FOR HAVRE — SCENERY OP THE SOUND ISLE OP HUEN — TYCHO BRAHE — NORWAY AND SWEDEN — GODWIN SANDS LIGHT-SHIP — DOVER AND WALMER CASTLES — HAVRE — STEADIER FRANKLIN — MR. VE3EY, U. 8. CONSUL THE TOWN — HISTORICAL INCIDENTS — INGOUVILLB — LEAVE lOR PARIS — ROUEN, POISSY, ETC., 158 XII CONTENTS, CHAPTER XII. HOTELS — HON. S. G. GOODRICn — AMERICAN CLERaY IN EUROPE — REVIEW REV. ROBERT LOVETT AND HIS CHAPEL CONFERENCE OF AMERICANS METHODIST CHAPEL LOUVRE JARDIN DES PLANTES PALAIS DB JUSTICE FLOWER-MARKET HOTEL DE CLUGNY ENGLISH FRIENDS VERSAILLES GARDEN OF THE TUILLERIES AND CHAMPS-EL YS^ES PONT NEUP AND OLD PARTS OP PARIS — HOTEL DE VILLE — CHURCHES — ROYAL LIBRARY — GOBELINS — ST. DENIS NEUILLY — CHAPELLE ST. FERDI- NAND — CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE — FONTAINEBLEAU, 165 CHAPTER XIII. KEV. J. R. PEAKE — NAPOLEON'S TOMB IN THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES LOUIS PHILIPPE — DESCRIPTION OP THE CRYPT GALLERY, ETC. MOSAICS — CARYATIDES SARCOPHAGUS* — RELIQUARY — ALTAR AND BALDAQUIN — GUIDE — CLOIATE OF PARIS — OVERTURES MADE TO MR. VANDERBILT — WOODMAN AND FORR — RAILROAD TO ROUEN — HIS- TORIC NOTICE POPULATION OP ROUEN CATHEDRAL INTERIOR MONUMENTS RICHARD GCEUR DE LION, ETC. ABBEY OP ST. OUEN PALACE OF JUSTICE — JOAN OF ARC — CORNEILLE — ENGLISH CHURCH VISITORS, 186 CHAPTER XIV. VOYAGE RESUMED — BAY OP BISCAY — VIGO BAY — LOSS OP ROBERT OGDEN FLINT — ROCK OP LISBON — CAPE ST. VINCENT — TRAFALGAR TARIFA — COAST OP AFRICA — ROCK OP GIBRALTAR — MALAGA QUARANTINE — WATERING — VISITORS FROM SHORE — FUNERAL SERMON CATHEDRAL BEGGARS IN THE STREETS A PRETTY BOY AND A STRONG RESEMBLANCE — JOSE CUBERO — PRIEST WITH BELL AND BOX — BULL RING — REV. CHARLES BRERETON — BISHOP OP BARCELONA CALECHES AND DRIVERS — RIDE TO MR. DELIUS' VILLA AND VINE- YARDS — ALAMEDA — MULETEERS — MR. CONSUL SMITH — HARBOR OP MALAGA, 199 CONTENTS. Xm CHAPTER XV. OFF FOR LEQHORN CARTHAOENA IVICA MAJORCA MINORCA COR- SICA SCENERY GORGONA LEGHORN HOTEL ST. MARCO FREE PORT OPERA — SCOTCH FREE CHURCH — SERVICE ON SABBATH — STREETS ADMIRABLY PAVED EVENING SERVICE THE PARSONAGE-HOUSE GOS- PEL IN ITALY, 211 CHAPTER XVI. ARRIVE AT FLORENCE HOTEL D'ITALIE RIDE CITY AND STREETS, ETC. PITTI PALACE PICTURES CANOVA'S VENUS DUKE'S APART- MENTS MUSEUM POWERS AND HART POWERS' STUDIO AND HI3 WORK hart's STUDIO BUSTS OF AMERICANS STATUE OP HENRY CLAY UFFIZII GALLERY STATUARY TRIBUNE VENUS DE MEDICI KNIFE-GRINDER, ETC. TITIAN'S VENUSES RAPHAEL'S PICTURES, ETC. NIOBE RUBENS POWELL'S DE SOTO, ETC. CATHEDRAL CAMPANILE BAPTISTERY SANTO CROCE — CHAPEL OF THE MEDICI ST. LORENZO SACRISTY MICHAEL ANGELO'S DAY AND NIGHT PALAZZO VECCHIO DUCAL PIAZZA STATUARY, 218 CHAPTER XVII. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA — PAINTINGS — SPEZIERIA — RESIDENCE OF MICHAEL ANGELO CHURCH OP THE ANNUNCIATION THE CASCINE SCENERY MOUNTAINS THE BRIDGES FRIENDS IN FLORENCE OLIVER CROM- WELL'S PORTRAIT IMPRESSIONS OF FLORENCE LEAVE FOR PISA THE CITY LEANING TOWER CATHEDRAL CAMPO SANTO THE BAP- TISTERY SANTA MARIA DELLA SPINA THE CAMELS — LEGHORN GOV- ERNMENT ALARMED AT OUR YACHT VISITORS, ETC., 233 CHAPTER XVIII. LEAVE LEGHORN FOR CIVITA VECCHIA — HARBOR — DIFFICULTIES ON OUR WAY DISAPPOINTMENT VOYAGE RESUMED — SEE ST. PETER'S AFAR OFF ISCHIA PROCEDA BAIA, ETC. BRIDGE OP CALIGULA NA- PLES THE BAY RENEWED DISAPPOINTMENT SWIMMERS LADY MOR- GAN VESUVIUS, ETC. CAPRI AND SUNSET STROMBOLI AND ^TNA CAPE FARO, OR PELORUS SCYLLA EARTHQUAKE OF 1783 — MESSINA — SCENERY OF THE STRAITS — RHEGIUM — MOUNT ^TNA — SYRACUSE CAPE PASSARO — MALTA, 244 . 2 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIX. HARBOR — ARABS — ALLOWED TO LAND — VISIT FROM MR. CONSUL WIN- THROP DIVERS HISTORICAL NOTICE VALETTA TILE RACES — MAL- TESE BOATS INVITATION FROM THE GOVERNOR TO TAKE DINNER INVITATIONS FROM THE OFFICERS OF THE GARRISON VISIT TO SIR WILLIAM REID GOVERNOR'S PALACE MR. WINTHROP'S RESIDENCE MSS. OF ITALIAN OPERAS CAPTAIN THOMAS GRAVES, R.N. CITTA VECCHIA SHOPS THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE VISIT THE YACHT ST. JOHN'S CHURCH WALLS OF THE CITADEL COUNTRY PEOPLE COS- TUME FORTS ANGELO, RICASOLI, MANOEL, TIGN^ AND ST. ELMO TURKISH SIEGE IN 1565 DEPART FOR CONSTANTINOPLE, 256 CHAPTER XX. MOBEA CERIGO CAPE COLONNA TENEDOS — PLAINS OF TROY ENGLISH AlfD FRENCH FLEETS SIGJ3UM HELLESPONT ■ — DARDANELLES CAS- TLES OF EUROPE AND ASIA PROPONTIS, OR SEA OF MARMORA FIRST VIEW OF STAMBOUL SCENERY ANCHORAGE OFF PERA MR. BROWN AND OTHER VISITORS — VISIT TO PERA, GALATA AND TOPHANA SUL- TAN 'S NEW PALACE GULLS — SULTAN 'S FIRMAN SERAGLIO ATMEI- DAN, OR HIPPODROME SUBLIME PORTE LIBRARY ANCIENT ARMOR MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA — HISTORICAL NOTICE, ETC., 275 CHAPTER XXI. MOSQUE OF ACHMET — MUZZEIN'S CALL — COSTUMES OF THE JANISSARIES REV. MR. BENJAMIN TOMB OF SULTAN MAHMOUD BAZAARS SHOP- PING VISIT TO THE ENGLISH YACHT SYLPHIDE — TURKISH VISITORS AMERICAN MISSIONARIES EXCURSION TO SCUTARI HOWLING DER- VISHES CEMETERY WEDDING BULGURLU SCENERY CHALCEDON — A KIOSK HOUSE IN WHICH THE LATE SULTAN DIED SOLDIERS COMING IN FROBI ASIA — DARK RIDE — SAIL TO BEBEK • — AFFECTING INCIDENT VILLAGE OF BEBEK MISSION PREMISES EDUCATION OF BOYS IN MECHANICAL ARTS PERSECUTION — MR. HAMLIN ARMENIAN PRIEST THE FAMILY CIRCLE "LIGHT ON THE DARK RIVER" MISS LOVELL MR. MINASIAN, 289 CONTENTS. 3CV CHAPTER XXII. SULTAN GOma TO MOSQUE — CAIQUES — A STEAMBOAT CHARTERED — EX- CURSION UP THE BOSPHORUS — EUROPEAN BANK TURKISH AND EaYP- TIAN FLEET SYMPLEGADES BLACK SEA ASIATIC COAST LAND AT KANDALI BETURN TO YACHT DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR ARRIVAL AT THE ROCK APPEARANCE OF ROCK AND TOWN THE METHODIST CHAPEL REV. W. H. BIDWELL STREETS AND MARKETS SHOPS AND GOODS EXCURSION TO THE ROCK ENGLISH OFFICERS ST. GEORGE'S HALL ST. MICHAEL'S CAVE MONKEYS DINNER AT MR. SPRAGUE'S HISTORICAL NOTICES SMUG- GLERS SHOT — PROFFERED HOSPITALITIES EXCURSION TO THE CORK WOODS "CHARLEY," TUB MOORISH MERCHANT DINNER WITH THE FORTY-FOURTH REGIMENT VISITORS TO THE YACHT, 304 CHAPTER XXIII. LEAVE GIBRALTAR — TANGIER — SAIL FOR MADEIRA — PORTO SANTO — MA- DEIRA FUNCHAL, AND ITS ASPECT LANDING IN THE SURF HISTORIC NOTICE LEGEND OF JIACHIM OBSERVATIONS ON FUNCHAL CATHOLIC INTOLERANCE MANNERS OF PEOPLE EXCURSION TO THE CHURCH OP OUR LADY OF THE MOUNT SCENERY A MIRACLE MR. GEORGE BROWN BEGGARS ARTICLES FOR SALE YATES' HOTEL HIS STUDY CLIMATE SIR JAMES CLARK AND LEIGH HUNT POPULATION BOARDING-HOUSES MODES OF TRAVEL SHOPS THE BOY-BEGGARS BLAST OP THE VINEYARDS THE VINE WINES OF THE ISLAND FRUITS AJID VEGETABLES — TREES AND FLOWERS BIRDS FISH DEPARTURE, 325 CHAPTER XXIV. LEAVE FUNCHAL APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND SKIRT THE SHORE ROUGH WEATHER LIVE STOCK A WRECK DISCOVERED — FLYING-FISH SANDY HOOK SALUTATIONS ON ARRIVAL SUMMARY OF THE VOYAGE OUR OBLIGATIONS TO MR. AND MRS. VANDERBILT CAPTAIN EL- DRIDGB AND HIS OFFICERS — THE VOYAGE A SOURCE OF PRIDE TO THE COUNTRY, 346 fnt 0f |IUistrati0its. LIKENESS OF CORNELIUS VANDERBILT, Frontispikcb. STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR, Title-page. LIKENESS OF CAPTAIN ASA E!i.DRIDGE, p. 22 HI. VINCENT ROCKS, CLIFTON, 40 HENBURY COTTAGES, 42,45 ST. PETERSBURG, FROM THE ENGLISH QUAY, 126 GRAND ENTRANCE TO THE CRYPT, AND VIEW OF NAPOLEON'S TOMB, 189 MOSAICS ON PASSAGE-FLOOR LEADING TO THE TOMB, 190 ROUEN, , 193 LEGHORN, 212 PALAZZO VECCHIO, FLORENCE, 230 VALETTA, FROM SLIEMA, 258 MALTESE COUNTRY MAN AND WOMAN, 269 CONSTANTINOPLE, 280 GIBRALTAR, FROM THE SPANISH SIDE 311 FUNCHAL, FROM THE SEA, 327 CHAPTER I. OEiaiN OF THE YACHT VOYAGE — VARIOUS IDEAS AS TO ITS OBJECT — MB. VA.NDERBILT'S EXACT ARRANGEMENT DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR KEm INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS FURNITURE, ETC. COMMANDER ASA ELDRIDGE, ESQ. OFFICERS AND CREW. Early in the spring of the present year, the attention of the country was directed to an item in the daily papers of New York, containing information that Mr. Yanderbilt was constructing a steam-ship of large dimensions, which he intended as a yacht for the accommodation of his family and some invited friends in a voyage to the principal sea-ports in Europe. The announce- ment of this project excited a deep interest in the public mind, and the excursion became a prominent subject of conversation. Mr. Yanderbilt was known to his countrymen as a thoroughly practical man, whose energy and perseverance, combined with strong intellect and high commercial integrity, had given him immense wealth ; all his undertakings had been crowned with signal success, and his great enterprise in opening a communica- tion with the Pacific by the Nicaragua route had made him a reputation in Europe ; and a general expectation existed that he would carry out his plan in a manner that would redound to the honor of the country. Various opinions were entertained as to his ultimate designs. Many imagined that Mr Yanderbilt pro- posed to effect some great mercantile operation, — he was to sell his ship to this monarch, or that government, — or, he was to take contracts for the supply of war steamers ; all sorts of specu- lations were entertained by that generally misinformed character, — the public. In February I was sitting with Mr. Yanderbilt 2* 18 ME. vanderbilt's object. in his library, when he gave me the first information I ha^i received of his intentions, and he kindly invited me and my wife to accompany him to Europe in the month of May. The ship was then on the stocks, but he named the very day on which he should sail, and gave me the details of his proposed route, and from which few deviations were afterwards made. Mr. V. expressly informed me that his sole object was to gratify his family and afford himself an opportunity to see the coast of Europe, which he could do in no other way ; and he observed that, after more than thirty years' devotion to business, in all which period he had known no rest from labor, he felt that he had a right to a complete holiday. The following description of the yacht appeared in the Illus- trated News, published in New York, April 9, 1853, and I select it for my present purpose, as it is, I believe, strictly correct : " MR. VANDERBILT'S STEAM YACUr. " The latest enterprise in the way of steam vessels, with which Mr. Yanderbilt has had any connection, is the constniction of a yacht, for private purposes, to be propelled by steam. This vessel is called the * North Star,' and was lately launched at New York. She is to leave on a cruise to the east about the middle of May. Mr. Vanderbilt goes out in her, with some thirty or forty ladies and gentlemen, his friends. We believe he intends to land first at Southampton, then go round to London. From there the trip is to be extended, first up the Baltic ifi St. Petersburg, and then return, and go up the Mediterranean, calling at Gibraltar, Naples, Malta and Athens, visiting Con- stantinople and Alexandria. What will the wealthy noblemen of England — the proprietors of sailing yachts of fifty and a hundred tons — say to a citizen of the United States appearing in their waters with a steamship yacht of twenty-five hundred tons burthen; a vessel large enough to carry the armament of a British seventy- DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR. 19 four ? We have shown our transatlantic cousins one sample of yachting, about which we do not care to boast. Dropping the past, we arc sure the English nobility and gentry will give the gallant * commodore ' a reception commensurate with his rank as a merchant prince, — one who goes abroad in a style not inferior to their own youthful sovereigns. We predict a sensation, at the appearance of this vessel in Europe, second to that of no arrival they have ever had from any quarter of the globe. " The North Star has been built under the immediate supervision of her owner, whose principal object has been to combine beauty of model with strength and durability ; and, although connois- seurs in naval architecture bespeak for her a speed equal to any of our sea steamers, yet it has not been so much the design of ier owner to produce the fastest vessel afloat, as a noble specimen of American mechanical skill. Her boilers and the principal part of her engines are on board, and she will in a few weeks be ready to sail for Southampton. " To her builder, Mr. Simonson, too much praise cannot be awarded for the care and skill he has displayed in the construc- tion of this noble ship ; which, apart from the beauty of her model, is probably the strongest fastened vessel of her tonnage afloat. She is 260 feet on the keel, 270 feet on the spar deck, 38 breadth of beam, 13 feet from floor timber to lower deck beams, 7 feet 8 inches between decks, 7 feet 6 inches between main and spar decks, making her whole depth 28 feet 6 inches. Her keel, of white oak, is 15 inches sided by 14 inches wide, stem and stern posts of the same material, with double aprons, and inner posts of live oak, bolted through with If copper bolts, deadwoods of white oak and 13 inches through, fastened with IJ- inch copper bolts, in the most substantial manner. The floor timbers are sided 12 inches, and moulded 13 inches, being placed close together, and bolted through sideways with 1^- inch bolts. The main kelsons, of which there are five rows extendinsj the entire lenij-th of the ship, are of white oak, sided 15 inches by 32 inches deep, the 20 DESCRIPTION OF NORTH STAR. first tier being fastened by two copper bolts 1^ inches in diameter, througb every floor timber, the upper tiers secured to the lower one with large iron bolts. The bed upon which the engine rests is composed of four rows of kelsons, 2 feet 2 inches by 5 feet deep, secured by iron screw bolts driven from the bottom before the vessel was planked. The outside planking of white oak, 3^ inches thick, increasing to 5 inches, is secured with copper bolts and locust trenails, there being 32,000 of the latter driven through and wedged upon both sides. There are six bilge streaks on the inside of the ship, covering the floor heads and futtocks 12 by 14 inches, fastened to the timbers with iron bolts, and bolted edge- lays between every frame. "The ceiling is of six-inch yellow pine, and bolted in the same manner as the bilge streak, forming one substantial mass of timber 14 feet in depth. The lower deck clamps, on which the beams rest, are 7 inches thick, thoroughly fastened with iron bolts driven from the outside, and riveted on the inside. " There are 45 deck beams in the lower deck, with carlines between, sided 15 inches and moulded 14 inches, with lodging and bosom knees of white oak, and a large hanging knee on each end. The water ways on top of the lower deck are composed of three pieces, extending the whole length of the ship, thoroughly bolted, — making this deck sufficiently strong to stand any reasonable strain. The clamps to support the main deck are of yellow pine, 6 inches thick and 14 inches wide, of two widths. This deck is securely kneed, in the same manner as the lower one. The stanchions, which extend from the floor timbers to the lower deck beams, have a large bolt passing through them, and are continued on to the upper decks, thus connecting the deck with the bottom of the ship. The lower and main deck plank are of white pine, 3 by 5 inches ; the upper or spar deck extending the entire length of the ship. " Her machinery is from the Allaire works. She will be pro- pelled by two lever beam engines : cylinders, 60 inches ; length HER INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS. 21 of stroke, 10 feet; diameter of wheels, 34 feet. Her boilers, of which she has four, are 24 feet long, 10 feet diameter, 11 i feet front, 11 feet high, with single return flues. " Her cabins and interior arrangements combine all that is required to insure comfort and elegance. " The Staten Islander of the 20th of Maj, speaking of the yacht, stated that ' the main saloon is splendidly fitted up with all that can tend to gratify the eye and minister to luxurious ease. The state-rooms, which lead from it on either side, are fitted up in the first style of the upholsterer's art. The furniture throughout blends in one harmonious whole ; there are none of those glaring contrasts which are too often met with, and ofi"end the eye and taste by their incongruities. This saloon is of beau- tiful satin-wood, with just sufficient rosewood to relieve it, the work of which was executed by Mr. Charles Simonson. The cabinet furniture and upholstery were furnished from the exten- sive establishment of Messrs. J. & J. W. "Weeks. The furniture of the main saloon is of rosewood, carved in the splendid style of Louis XV., covered with a new and elegant material of figured velvet plush, with a green ground filled with bouquets of flowers. It consists of two sofas, four couches, six arm-chairs. Con- nected with this saloon are ten state-rooms, superbly fitted up, each with a French armour le gles, beautifully enamelled in white, with a large glass door — size of plate, forty by sixty-four inches. The berths are furnished with elegant silk lambricans and lace curtains. Each room is fitted up with a difiierent color, namely, green and gold, crimson and gold, orange, &c. The toilet furni- ture matches with the hangings and fittings, by being of the same colors, and presents a picture of completeness not often met with. The saloon and state-rooms are kept at a pleasant tem- perature by one of Van Horn's steam heaters, which occupies the centre of the cabin. It is a beautiful specimen of bronze trellis-work, with marble top, and has richly burnished gilding. The tapestry carpet is one of gorgeous pattern. Forward of 22 saloon is a magnificent dining-saloon. This is fitted up in a style entirely new to sea-going vessels. The walls are covered with a preparation of ligneous marble, polished to a degree of mirror-like brightness that marble is incapable of receiving. The panels are of Naples granite, the style of Breschia jasper, and the surface of yellow Pyrenees marble. The ceiling of this room is in panels painted white, with scroll-work of purple, light-green and gold, surrounding medallion paintings of Columbus, Webster, Clay, Calhoun, Washington, Franklin and others, together with various emblematic conceptions. All the table furniture is of the most gorgeous description. The china is of ruby and gold finish, and the silver ware of the finest kind. The entire interior furnishing has been done with the single idea of producing the very best efi'ect possible, and every article shows elaborate design and workman- ship, which reflects much credit on American taste and skill.' A fine entrance saloon, leading from the deck, conducts, by an elegantly adorned staircase, to the main saloon. This reception saloon has a circular sofa capable of seating some twenty per- sons, and is covered with crimson plush. Over the stairway is a good painting of Mr. Yanderbilt's summer villa at Staten Island, which was placed there, without his knowledge, by the polite attention of his artist friend. The command of the steamer was given by her proprietor to Asa Eldridge, Esq., a gentleman who had established a high nautical reputation as a commander in the India, Liverpool, and California trade. The first ofl&cer was Mr. Cope, of Virginia ; the second, Mr. Petersen, a native of Sweden ; the chief engi- neer was Mr. Germaine, of New York ; the steward, Mr. Larner, formerly of the Cunard line ; the purser, Mr. John Keefe, the well-known caterer of good things at the cafe near the Racket Club, in Broadway. Several of the hands who shipped for the cruise were young men of the best families in the country, who were attracted by the prospect of visiting so many celebrated cities and places in a short summer passage. ■->»t 'y.Jft^-^tt^rr^tt^type J^nr -h J i ^ui^ixfersf ^^^^— ^^^^^L CHAPTER II. HEADY TO SAIL — ALL ON BOARD 19 MAY — YACHT RUNS ON A REEF NAVY-YARD AND DRY DOCK — REPAIRS SOON MADE — DEPARTURE 20 MAY PILOT LEFT YACHT MUSTER-ROLL OP THE PARTY FAMILY WORSHIP EMOTIONS OP VOYAGERS SAFETY, NOT SPEED, THE RULE STRIKE OF FIREMEN GREEN HANDS DIVINE SERVICE LAND-BIRD CONCERTS GREAT RUN OF THREE HUNDRED AND FORTY-FOUR MILES — COMFORT AND LUXURY OP VOYAGE — MR. VANDERBILT'S COURTESY — PILOT — CHANNEL. All preliminary arrangements having been made, and the " North Star" having made a satisfactory trip to Sandy Hook, — the only trial to which she was subjected, — the party assembled on board for our departure, May 19th, at the wharf belonging to the x\llaire works, near the foot of Corlears-street. A party of our friends, consisting of between four and five hundred persons, was on board the yacht, who were to accompany us to the Hook, and return in the Francis Skiddy, which, as a mark of respect to Mr. Yanderbilt, had been loaned for the occasion by her owner, J. McCullough, Esq. At half past ten a. m. the wheels were in motion, but in three minutes after, the force of the ebb-tide oper- ating upon the yacht, which had no steerage-way, she struck hard and fast upon the reef which lies at the pier. Here we were placed in what an old gentleman on board termed " a located position." The Huguenot steamer came to our assistance, and in a few hours we entered the Dry Dock, at the Government Navy- yard, where we received all necessary aid, afforded in the kindest manner by Commodore Smith, the chief of the Bureau of the Dock and Navy-yard, and Captain Boorman, the commandant of the Navy-yard, It ought to be stated, that as soon as the acci- 26 NAVY YARD AND DRY DOCK. dent occurred a telegrapkic message was sent to tKe Secretary of State and the Navy Department ; and an order was promptly responded that we should be received at the Dry Dock, which, fortunately, was unoccupied at the time. The Dry Dock is a most splendid work of art ; and by the force of the powerful steam-engine it was soon emptied, and the North Star was exposed to the examination of the ship-carpenters. It was found that the damage was very slight ; she had only lost a part of her shoe, and roughed her copper in a few places. Everything was made right in a short time, and the anxiety of the party, which had been considerable, lest a delay should prove inevitable, was at once relieved ; and, at seven minutes to eight o'clock p. m., on the 20th of May, we left the gates amid the cheering of our kind friends who lined the dock ; and, as we steamed down the river, we fired salutes and received them from various ships, and at the Battery, where a large party had gathered to give us a farewell greeting. As the North Star passed by Staten Island, and just opposite to the residence of Mr. Yanderbilt's mother, rockets were let off, and guns fired from the yacht. The night was fine, and the moon, shining in a cloudless sky, gave us a charming view of one of the Sweetest islands of the world. At half-past nine o'clock we were outside the Hook, and all in fine spirits, as the pilot, Mr. John Martineau, left the ship. Just before leaving, he was called into the cabin and received the present of a purse of gold, which was intended to show that no blame was attached to him by Mr. Vanderbilt on account of the disaster at leaving the dock on the previous day. The presentation was made by Mr. H. F. Clark. Perhaps this may be the proper time to record the muster-roll of the party, which consisted of the following persons : Mr. and Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Mrs. James Cross, Miss Kate Vanderbilt, FAMILY WORSIIir. 27 Master George W. Vanderbilt, Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Vanderbilt, Mr. and Mrs. D, B. Allen, Mr. and Mrs. George Osgood, Mr. and Mrs. W. K. Thorn, Miss Louisa Thorn, Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Torrance, Mr. and Mrs. H. F. Clark, Mr. and Mrs. N. B. Labau, Dr. and Mrs. Linsly, Rev. Dk. and Mrs. Ciioules, Mrs. Asa Eldridge. Soon after leaving Sandy Hook, Mr Vanderbilt requested me to conduct family worship on board the ship throughout the voyage, and to appoint such an hour as I thought most suitable. It was accordingly agreed that prayers should be attended every evening at nine o'clock, and that grace should be said at all the meals on board ship. It affords me great pleasure to record that nearly all the party regularly attended throughout the voyage, as well as at the Sabbath-day services, when a sermon was preached at eleven o'clock. It is a happy thing for the voyager who for the first time looks back upon the receding shores of his beloved land, that, amid the disquietudes that fill his imagination and the natural forebodings of terror, connected, probably, with actual suffering, he has the prospect of revelling- amid the cherished day- dreams of his boyhood ; he anticipates an association with the glorious homes of England, the battle-fields of freedom, the classic plains of Italy and Greece, and the storied shores of the Medi- terranean. I have noticed, on several passages over the Atlantic, that a thoughtful and contemplative mood is the characteristic feature of the voyager for the first two or three days; his mind appears to fall back upon his history, and, apart from the excite- ment of life's usual tide, the man remembers the way by which he 3 28 has been led. A great change is felt to have been made in a few short hours. The different pursuits of life in which all have been occupied are broken off. A period of calm repose is afforded ; a thing so new and untried by most of our party, — business men, for whose ardor the days are too short and the nights are too long. The next day after leaving New York, the day was all that we could desire ; not a cloud was visible, the sun shone most glo- riousl3% and it seemed happiness to exist. At twelve o'clock, it was announced that we had made one hundred and seventy -six miles since eight o'clock the previous evening. This was regarded as satisfactory for the first day, because we were under moderate steam. Mr. Yanderbilt distinctly informed us that his plan was to insure safety for the prosecution of the whole voyage, which would probably be one of nearly twenty thousand miles, and that the attainment of great speed was no object of his ambition. Of the power and capacity of the North Star he. had no doubt ; but, with such objects to effect as he proposed, he felt unwilling to make any rash attempts at unusual rapidity. It is worth stating that, in making up the complement of fire- men for the voyage, Mr. Germaine had selected a company of picked men, whose abilities he knew from former service. But, an hour before the yacht was to commence her voyage, this depart- ment of the ship's company saw fit to strike for wages, supposing that such a measure, at so critical a juncture, would meet with a sure compliance. But the calculation was made without the host, and in total ignorance of the man with whom they had to do. True to his principles of action in all his business affairs, Mr. Vanderbilt refused to be coerced by the seeming necessity of the case; he would not listen for a moment to demands so urged, and in one hour selected such firemen as could be collected ; and many of them were green hands, and ill-adapted to give efficient service in their most important department, where skill and adroitness are necessary qualifications, and can only be the result DIVINE SERVICE. 29 of experience. Several of the seamen, too, were fresh from the rural occupations of life. One youth was ordered to strike two bells, and, after a tardy movement, he reported that he could only find one bell ! Several whales were seen not far from the ship, and their gambols amused those who had never before seen Leviathan at home. On the 22d, our party was all in usual health, with the excep- tion of three of the ladies, who suffered from the new acquaint- ance formed with the ocean, although the sea was as smooth as the North river. At eleven o'clock divine service was per- formed in the saloon, and attended by many of the officers and crew of the ship. In view of the long period of intimate asso- ciation we were likely to spend on board the yacht, the text selected for the occasion was one of a practical character, — Proverbs 16 : 32. " He that is slow to anger is better than the mighty, and he that ruleth his spirit than he that taketh a city." The singing was fine, and the accompaniment of the piano very acceptable. The log of the ship this day recorded two hundred and seventy-two miles. The 23d was a bright, fine day, and the run of the yacht two hundred and seventy-eight miles, — the wind abaft, and a little more sea on, causing her to roll. We passed the ship Sharon, of Bath ; we gave her three hearty cheers, and she returned the compliment by lowering her flag. lAth. — Our run was two hundred and sixty miles. At seven minutes past seven a. m., we stopped one hour to key up. All day amused by vast schools of porpoises playing close around us, and nearly touching our wheels. 25^;A. — Two hundred and seventy miles. In the night we crossed the banks of Newfoundland ; the day was slightly foggy, the sea like a mirror, with a perceptible ground-swell. In the morning, between two and three, we passed and spoke the Mary Crocker, of Bath, from Liverpool, bound to Philadelphia ; we glided close by her stern. Soon after daylight, a small land- 80 LAND-BIRD — CONCERTS. bird flew on board ; it appeared quite exhausted. Poor thing ! it had lost its way, and here it was almost mid-ocean. We fed it with crumbs and seed, and it seemed nearly disposed to form an acquaintance with our canary-bird. A recent traveller, in re- cording a similar event, says, very beautifully, of a stray bird, " Is it not an epitome of man when he breaks the golden chords of that harmony which bind him to his God ? " The extreme tranquillity of the ocean prevented us from feeling that we were at sea. The pleasant weather kept us much on deck, and we found constant employment in gazing upon the lights and shades of the ever-rolling waves. Our evenings were spent very agreeably in listening to music from the ladies. We had a fine piano, and several of the party possessed vocal powers of a high order. I have rarely enjoyed a concert on shore as much as some of our entertainments at sea. One gen- tleman of the party possessed fine taste in Italian music, and several others had good voices, and our concerts would have been respectable on shore ; but at sea they were marvellously well re- ceived by a gratified audience. The ladies were always in voice, and many a song I heard on the ocean-wave will long dwell upon the ear of memory. The sailors, too, were decidedly fond of negro melody. One of them, who answered to the euphonious name of " Pogee," was, I think, quite equal to the Christy Min- strels. Every evening, he made plenty of amusement for all hands ; and many a merry group have I seen gathered round him to listen to " Jordan am a hard road to trabel, I believe." IQth. — The ship's run was two hundred and eighty-five miles. Exchanged signals with the ship Charlotte Harrison. Her decks crowded with emigrants. Day overcast. '2"ith. — No observation by sun. The calculation of the log was two hundred and sixty-five miles. This day our bird left us. Saw several vessels. 28^/i — We made three hundred miles, and had a fine breeze. The day charming. COMFORT AND LUXURY OF VOYAGE. 31 29^A. — Sunday. Our ship's reckoning was three hundred and thirty-seven miles. After a thick night, the sun rose clear. Attended divine service. This was a great day's work. Our average revolutions four- teen and one-half. No doubt exists that we could have made three hundred and sixty miles, had the effort been put forth. The Baltic, on a trip from Liverpool to New York, once made three hundred and thirty -six miles ; but the difference of time in her favor was twenty-eight and one-half minutes, making her run- ning-time twenty-four hours, twenty-eight minutes, thirty seconds. Whereas we wei*e going east, and so lost twenty-eight and one- half minutes on our twenty-four hours. Giving the North Star the benefit of this calculation, and our twenty-four hours affords a run of three hundred and forty-four miles. It will astonish many to learn that the consumption of coal this day was only forty-two tons, by the engineer's register. In relation to the style of living on board the steamer, I may say that, with all our knowledge of the splendid accommodations of the ship when we commenced our voyage, yet I think none of the party expected the luxurious fare with which we were provided. I hazard no contradiction from any of my messmates, when I say that on our voyage from New York to Southampton our table was equal to that of any hotel in America, and the desserts rivalled in richness and variety anything that I have wit- nessed in the Astor, Metropolitan or St. Nicholas. It would be wrong if I omitted to express my admiration of Mr. Vander- bilt's kindness and bearing in the supervision of all our affairs. Naturally anxious for the success of his undertaking, he was cautious, prudent and self-reliant. Often did I wish that more than the members of our privileged company could have seen him day by day, kind and attentive to his officers, polite and liberal to his guests. Mr. Vanderbilt I had long known to be possessed of great qualities, a mighty grasp of intellect, and lyapaHlitiv i of the highest order. Yet, till I entered upon this 3* 32 PILOT — CIIAXXEL. voyage, I did not adequately appreciate his knowledge of men, his fine tact, his intuitive perception of the fitting, and his digni- fied self-control; and I felt glad that such a man, self-made as he is, should be seen by the accidental sons of nobility and fortune in the Old World. Tuesday, June 1, at ten minutes past six. New York time, we took a pilot on board — making our voyage from pilot to pilot ten days, eight hours, forty minutes. The fellow proved to be careless and ignorant, and he managed to place the yacht on a bank of soft mud, not far from the Needles. At the flood tide we got off, and anchored in the night, at Southampton-water. Our passage up the British Channel was delightful, giving us fine views of the Eng- lish coast, including Cornwall, Devonshire and Dorsetshire. The opening up of the Bill of Portland was a noble piece of scenery, and all our party spent the day on deck ; and as the day was fine, though breezy, we enjoyed every moment. The passage, as we passed the Needles, was deeply interesting ; we obtained a fine view of the stupendous cliffs which overhang them, and admired their isolated situation and exceedingly picturesque form. These huge rocks, as well as the awful cliffs, seem to be composed of a pearly-colored chalk. CHAPTER Til. 80UTHABIPT0N SCENEKY HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS STEAM PACKET COMPANIES HIGH-STREET AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL, MR. COX DOCKS STEAMERS REV. THOMAS ADKINS ARRIVE IN LONDON QUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY, ETC. HYDE PARK KEN- SINGTON GARDENS regent's PARK VISITS TO WESTMINSTER AND OTH- ER PUBLIC PLACES WINDSOR HAMPTON COURT BRISTOL CLIFTON AND VICINAGE TINTERN IIENBURY AND COTTAGES LOCAL SCENERY BERKELEY CASTLE GLOUCESTER CHELTENHAM ENGLISH COUNTRY SCENERY. It was one of England's most joyous, brilliant mornings, when we woke up and gazed out upon as richly cultivated a landscape as the southern coast of Britain can present. Directly before us lay the ancient town of Southampton, which is situated upon a prom- ontory, formed by the confluence of the small rivers Test and Itchen. A gradual ascent leads towards the north. The tide flows to some distance above the town, and the noble estuary, known as the Southampton-water, extends several miles below, and afibrds convenient anchorage to shipping at all states of the tide, while the charming Isle of Wight constitutes an immense breakwater, and protects it from the rage of ocean storms. The salubrity of this region has established its reputation as a water- ing-place ; and the climate being so mild and dry, it has been a popular resort for invalids afflicted with pulmonic afiections. Very numerous instances of benefit to those who have suffered from bronchial irritation are reported. It is a matter of notoriety that all epidemics have assumed a milder form in this vicinity than in most other pA aces. Dr. Granville, in his capital work on the Spas of England, iwards high commendation to this town as a resort 34 SCENERY — HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. for the weak, and speaks of its gravelly soil and its fine dry walks. The approach to Southampton from the water presents a pleasing landscape. The churches, towers and spires on the central point, with the rivers on either side winding into the dis- tant, obscure gray, and the fine woodlands of the New Forest, with the beautiful villas off to the left, and the noble ruins of Netley Abbey at the right, combine tp delight the eye ; and on few spots can a ^venly voyager land in Great Britain with more pleasurable emotions than at this venerable town. It was here that Dr. Watts was born, and, gazing upon the fair prospect be- yond the water in front of the town, he wrote the well-known and exquisite stanza — " Sweet fields beyond the swelling flood Stand dressed in living green." It was on this very beach that Canute rebuked his sycophantic courtiers, as the advancing tide approached the Danish monarch. From this port the army of Henry V. sailed to France when he attempted the conquest of that country. And a still more im- portant historical event is associated with Southampton, and one that must ever make it an interesting place to New England men ; it was from this town that our Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the Mayflower, when they conmienced the voyage of destiny, to found a commonwealth which is now exerting an influence all over the globe. I should mention that all around are to be traced the remains of Roman works ; close by was their great Camp Clau- sentum. For many years Southampton was a remarkably still, quiet place ; but it has undergone a vast change in a few years, by the construction of railroads and docks. The steam packet companies, Oriental, West India and South-western, have se- lected this as their port for passage to the Mediterranean, West India and American ports ; and a busy sight it is to see the arrival and departure of the immense steamers. We found several fine hotels ; one, styled the New York Hotel, had the star-spangled banner displayed for our special accommodation. Some of our AMERICAN VICE-CONSUL — DOCKS. 35 gentlemen, who repaired to it for a lunch on shore, were not very favorably impressed with it. Radley's Hotel, near the railroad, and I think the Dolphin, are well-kept houses. I hardly know a town that can show a more beautiful main street than Southampton, except it be Oxford. The High-street opens from the quay, and under various names it winds in a gen- tly-sweeping line for one mile and a half, and is of a very hand- some width. The variety of style and color of material in the buildings afibrds an exhibition of outline, light and color, that I think is seldom equalled. The shops are very elegant, and the streets are kept exceedingly clean. In the absence of Mr. McCroskey, the United States consul, we were visited by his obliging and polite representative, Mr. Cox, and Mr. Hillier, his kind assistant ; and by his advice the North Star hauled into the docks for the purpose of coaling. We were much gratified by an inspection of the docks, pierhead and quays, which are admi- rably constructed, and look as if designed to last for all time. The buildings around the quays are in fine taste ; and we observed one in particular, a handsome erection of the Italian style, belong- ing to the Royal Yacht Club. From the ofl&cers of this club we re- ceived a polite invitation to visit their house and use their rooms. The Plata, a large steamer of twenty-eight hundred tons, was lying next to the North Star. She had just returned from the West In- dies or Brazil, and had lost several persons by yellow fever. Close by us were the Oronoka, a fine steamer, just ready for sea, and the Indus. All these were first-class steamers. Here, too, was the old Great Western, so familiar to New Yorkers, undergoing repairs, which seemed really necessary. A steam frigate came into the dock to receive a part of a regiment bound to a foreign port. The soldiers, as they marched along the dock, looked like fine fellows, and many of them had their wives to embark with them. Thirty years had passed away since I had visited this town, and I almost dreaded to call on my former acquaintances, lest I should feel how the march of time had left its footsteps 36 REV. THCMAS ADKINS — AEKIVE IN LONDON. and impressions. I called on the Rev. Thomas Adkins, the In- dependent minister, who settled over his congregation in 1810. I well remembered his manly form and his noble bearing, and, as I approached his residence, I told the ladies that Mr. Adkins used to be regarded as one of the noblest-looking men in Eng- land. We found him at home, and I was delighted and aston- ished to perceive how very gently age had touched his princely form. He certainly was the finest-looking man I saw in England, of his age ; and our ladies thought him one of the most splendid men they had ever seen. Mr. Adkins and his wife visited us on board the yacht, and we passed a very pleasant hour in conver- sation respecting friends of other days, most of whom are removed from the present state. Mr. Adkins has a large congregation, and his townsmen are justly proud of his talents and finished character as a Christian gentleman. The church under the pas- toral care of this gentleman dates its origin to the important year 1688. We saw less of my venerable friend than we should have done, as he was just on the eve of setting out on his summer ex- cursion to France. In the evening, a party from the ship rode through the town and round its environs. I do not believe that the ladies will soon forget the delight which they experienced from their first sight of the cottages and villas of the suburban region of Southampton. The next morning, June 2, we took the train to London, at eleven o'clock a. m. We had a good view of Winchester and its noble cathedral ; and some of the party visited the grand old city, and partook of the hospitalities of Mr. Alder- man Andrews, whose name is so endeared to Americans. We arrived at London at two o'clock. As it happened to be a Queen's Drawing-room that day, we found the city in a high state of ex- citement, and the hotels thronged. Seldom have I known so much difficulty in obtaining accommodation ; and, as our party was a large one, it was no easy matter to find quarters for all in one hotel. I was anxious to get in at my old favorite house, the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, nearly opposite to Northumberland HYDE PARK. Wf House ; but Mr. Gardiner was unable to take even half our number. We at last established ourselves at St. James's Hotel, in Jermyn- street, and found good accommodations. Two or three noblemen reside in this hotel ; and one, Lord Blayney, has made it his city residence for many years. Our friends, who were in London for the first time, were greatly delighted with the extraordinary dis- play of equipage occasioned by the Drawing-room. Every street was thronged with carriages waiting for their turn to take up the company at the Palace. The coachmen and footmen all had im- mense bouquets in their bosoms, and the splendid liveries and powdered heads and white wigs of the drivers were novelties to most of the North Star part3^ I was anxious to know Avhat would be the first object of curiosity to the ladies, and not a little surprised to find that the Thames Tunnel was voted for as our primary visit. The morning was devoted to it, and a visit to the Tower, the Monument, and St. Paul's Cathedral. This last edi- fice was so lumbered up with scaffolding erected for the great gathering of the school-boys, held on the 1st of June, that we had but a very poor view of the noble sanctuary. By tlie way, after visiting almost every celebrated religious temple of Europe, I am satisfied that St. Paul's Cathedral is kept in the worst con- dition of any that I have seen. Its statuary has on it the thick dust of long, long years; and the general internal ap- pearance of the church is discreditable to the nation. My im- pressions in reference to this cathedral are gathered from fre- quent previous visits, and have nothing to do with its condition at this time. After dinner we rode to Hyde Park, and there we were amused with a spectacle that can be witnessed nowhere else. Hundreds, and I may say thousands, were taking their accustomed rides, and we had a good opportunity to see the ladies, gentlemen, horses and carriages, of London and England. The horses we thought, on the whole, not what we had expected, but there were some very noble animals ; the ladies appeared to great advantage, but 38 KENSINGTON GARDENS. we thought that the gentlemen certainly might improve in horse- manship. London is indeed to be envied for the possession of her parks ; they are her gems, her crowning glory, in my esteem. Three hundred and forty-nine acres, and close to the brick and mortar, and noise and turmoil, of this great Babel ! This park has a great entrance from Piccadilly, by fine arched gateways, with a lodge, and several other approaches from Oxford-street, Bays- water, Kensington and Knightsbridge. The park is laid out with noble walks, and spacious drives, in which only private carriages are admissible. From April to July, between five and seven p. m., the scene presented is very gay and attractive. A road called Rotten Row is kept exclusively for the use of equestrians ; it is nearly two miles long, and is covered with fine loose gravel. In the park is the beautiful sheet of water known as the Serpentine, and at its junction with Kensington Gardens is an elegant stone bridge. The Serpentine extends over, I think, not less than fifty acres, and early in the morning it affords fine bathing to hun- dreds of the citizens of London. The noble old trees of this park are worthy objects of admiration. I like to stand on the high ground near the Edgeware road, and catch glimpses of the river through the forest trees, while off to the south are seen the Surrey Hills, and church-spires and antique towers on all sides, and fine mansions peeping from the trees. Here, too, are often witnessed the reviews of the troops stationed in the metropolis. I spoke of Kensington Gardens : these are a continuation of Hyde Park, and embrace three hundred acres. In 1550, all these six hun- dred and forty-nine acres were a royal enclosure, and stocked with game, and Majesty hunted for pastime. It was appropriated in 1851 to a nobler end ; and here was the most important popu- lar gathering that England ever witnessed, at the Great Exhibi- tion. Our rides through the Ptegent's Park, which contains four hundred and fifty acres, afforded us much enjoyment. The villas and terraces which have been built during the last fifteen years BKISTOL 39 are exquisite specimens of architecture. Here are the Zoological Gardens and the Coliseum. No foreigner should fail to visit this noble park; and here I think he will gain his best estimate of the beauty and elegance of English city life, as it is enjoyed by the opulent. The long walk, with its four lines of elm-trees, is a remarkable avenue. We made very interesting visits to Westminster Abbey, the new Houses of Parliament, Bank of England, Koyal Exchange, British Museum, Buckingham Palace, and other great objects of curiosity in London ; and excursions were made to Hampton Court, Windsor Castle, Richmond, &c. Several members of the party left London for other places. Some went to Liverpool, and others to Bristol, Clifton, Bath, Gloucester and Cheltenham. I cannot omit mention of a rapid visit which I made to ra}^ native city, and where I had the good fortune to arrive just in time to join a large family party at dinner, enabling me to meet those with whom I must other- wise have left England without enjoying an interview. Bristol is a glorious old city; it is full of history; not a street, a church, a hill (and, like Borne, it has seven hills), but is identified with other days, and days of note. It boasts of Roman settle- ment; figured largely in the wars of the barons; was the birth- place of Sebastian Cabot; was a great bone of contention between Royalists and Parliamentarians ; was the scene of poor Naylor's judicial tortures, and Judge Jeffries' cruelties ; the home of Chatterton, Southey, Coleridge, Cottle, Hannah More, Robert Hall, Richard Reynolds, William Thorp, Dr. Ryland, Bird, the artist, Bayley, the sculptor ; was represented in Par- liament by Edmund Burke; was burned and sacked by the rioters in 1831 ; and is the abode of more Christian charities than any other city I know, excepting Boston and New York. Here is the great boast of the west of England, — the unrivalled parish church of St. Mary Redclifi"e. This venerable pile is undergoing a thorough renovation. It contains the monument 4 40 CLIFTON AND ITS SCENERY. and grave of Admiral Penn, father of the founder of 1 ennsylva- nia. In the evening — our only one — we took a carriage to visit Clifton, on the banks of the Avon, with its unequalled scenery ST. Vincent's rocks, on the Avon. of St. Vincent's Rocks, the Down, Hotwells, Henbury and Blaise Hamlet. I have no knowledge of any spot on earth that can furnish a ride of such beauty in five hours. From the hill at Kingsweston we looked down upon the winding Avon, saw its junction with the " Severn swift," gazed upon the Welsh Hills, Bristol Channel, and took a look over at the mouth of the Wye and Wynd ClifFe, close by which is Tintern Abbey, the shrine of beauty at which my boyish devoirs were often paid. Tintern is the grandest ecclesiastical ruin in Europe, and Mr. Webster regarded it as alone sufficient to recompense a traveller for crossing the ocean to pay it a visit. I never heard the great man more eloquent than one day, after his return from Europe, when he conversed upon the abbey and its vicinage. The Wye had filled the sportsman's eye, and the beauties of the works of religion and art had animated his mind. I remember he ex- HENBURY COTTAQES. 41 pressed the wish that he could have had gathered round him, when he stood at Tintern, all he loved. Henburj, about four miles from Bristol, is one of England's most beautiful villages ; it looks full of peace, contentment, elegance and virtue. Here is Blaise Castle, the residence of John Scandret Harford, a man of large fortune, fine literary taste, and great eloquence, and, what is more and better than all, a Christian man. In many respects he resembles our own Everett. From his domain the eye drinks in scenes of paradisiac beauty. In the distance are ridge upon ridge of mountain ranges off in Monmouthshire, bold and green, then dimly blue. In the village, the munificence of this gentleman has laid out ten cottages of great taste, known as Blaise Hamlet, and which are the residences of ladies of decayed fortune ; such another group of sweet rural homes England can- not show. 0, the happy hours of my boyhood that I have passed in this village, on the Avon's banks ! and what tea-drink- ings have I had in these cottages, and in the arbors which sur- round them ! I really believe that, either from the impressions which I received in childhood in this glorious region, or from some peculiar organization, I have felt so much delight, in ram- bling abroad among scenes of beauty, sublimity, and historical interest. Nor do I regret a wayside wandering I have ever made. I am sure that "Wordsworth spoke like a prophet when he said, " And not unrecompensed the man shall roam. Who, to converse with Nature, quits his home." Why, there are hundreds of nooks and dells, ingles and hillsides, lanes and orchardings, streams and lakes,, mountains and cata- racts, mapped into my very soul ; and often do I get their lati- tudes and longitudes in solitary hours and in night seasons. I do not repent me that these witching charms have led me off from the turnpike road of life as by a magic spell. Yes, long years ago, when I have listened to the thrush and blackbird in this same village, I have blessed the man who helped to make 42 BLAISE HAMLET — GLOUCESTErvSHIKE. the reg'ion have so much of heaven in its pathways. I feel young again as I walk through woods and vales where I learned to be what I am. These cottages are all different in style, and either of them would form an admirable lodge for a gentleman's estate. The sketches of a few are shown in the accompanying illustrations, HENEURY COTTAGES and I took the pains and expense to obtain drafts of the ground plans of all of them, with a plot of the group entire. 0, that some of our wealthy men would adorn the neighborhood of our cities with so much of beauty and the sweet charity of life ! From Bristol we took our route through Gloucestershire, for Cheltenham. The county of Gloucestershire is renowned for its scenery, and nowhere can the traveller find so much manufactur- ing interest united with more perfect rural beauty than he meets with in the rail-car between Bristol and Gloucester. The fac- tory and its operatives are planted on the edges of hills, under BERKELEY CASTLE — GLOUCESTER. 43 the wings of woods, amid honeysuckles, laburnums, gilliflowers, and jessamines ; all around are running brooks and singing birds and. busy bees. And what roads and lanes of beauty! — and then the exquisite mingling up of gorse, and bloom, and heath, and fern ! Talk of cottages ! — come and see the laboring man's cottage on these hill-sides. There are flowers all round his door, ivy trailing to the gable-ridges, fruit-trees right and left, and one side of the house is pretty sure to have a pear-tree trained all over it. No man understands the thousand beauties of Great Britain who does not wander through her inland counties, and tramp through the unnumbered old roads that lead to nowhere. We passed by Berkeley's flinty towers, where England's king died at the command of his cruel queen, Isabella, the she-wolf of France. This castle will well repay a visit from the tourist. I am familiar with it, and know few places more deserving notice. The private chapel is one of the oldest in the kingdom, and in the mansion are capital pictures by Jansen, Holbein, Lely, and Vandyke ; while few collections can show better specimens of Claude Lorraine, Salvator Rosa, Ostade Wouvermans, Peter Keefs, Both, and Leonardi da Vinci. Those who are pleased with old furniture will have a treat in this castle. One cabinet of oak is thought to be unsurpassed ; and here, too, are the sofa, chairs and bedstead, which were the cabin furniture of Sir Francis Drake in his famous voyage round the world. Close to the church-yard stands Chantry Cottage, the residence of the immortal Jenner. Gloucester is a staid, respectable little city ; and, like all cathedral towns, contains a decent share of pompous compla- cency. A recent increase of business has come to this place by railroad communication and enlargement of her access to the ocean, by which it has become a port of entry. This city has a pleasant site on the east bank of the Severn, and has four fine streets, which proceed from the centre of the town. The cathe- dra, is a noble edifice, and was originally the convent church of 4* 44 CHELTENHAM — SCENERY. a Benedictine abbey, wliicli was erected in tlie early part of the eleventh century. The choir of this church is, perhaps, the finest specimen of the florid style of architecture in the kingdom. The building is rich in monuments ; and among the more recent ones are those to the memory of Jenner, who introduced vaccina- tion as an antidote to the sad malady of the small-pox, and Robert Raikes, who founded Sunday-schools. Grloucester took a decided stand against Charles I. in the civil wars ; and Charles II., on his restoration, ordered the walls of the city to be demol- ished. Cheltenham is a modern place. It has grown up in the pres- ent century, and presents more of the appearance of progress and improvement than most English towns. Its newness reminds one of an American town or city. It is renowned for its medicinal springs, and, like our Saratoga, is much resorted to by the fash- ionable. Our object in visiting Cheltenham was to pay our respects to a family from whom, in 1836, we had received great kindness and attention ; and our short tarry was a very delight- ful one, enabling us to recall days of pleasure which we often think of in our western home. The ride from Cheltenham to Swindon, where we took the Great Western Railroad, is through a lovely piece of country. We were delighted with the snugness and comfort of the dwell- ings of the gentry ; and all the cottages, excepting of the very poorest class, presented something attractive. We noticed high- fenced fields all fringed with noble trees ; houses buried up in shrubberies and clumps of forest wood ; beautiful cattle browsing in rich pasturage ; and all this often in the smallest space, sq that a glance of the eye takes in the entire picture. The con- stant green of England is to me the great charm of her natural scenery ; it is like the smile on woman's face, giving expression to every change of feature. I am sure that these exquisite snuggeries must exert a favorable influence upon the domestic qualities and much of the simplicity of English character may RURAL SCENERY OF ENGLAND. 45 be traced to the prevailing love of rural life. You may travel all over Europe, and find no such homes as are everywhere to be met with in England. You have a sense of tranquillity, and the spots are favorable to thought. I love the pleasures of city life, and I know that art, science, intellect, literature, are in a great metropolis, — it is the rojiil exchange for the human mind. I appreciate libraries and lectures, collections, galleries and mu- seums ; but still, when I enjoy the shade of venerable elms in a fine old farm-house, on the banks of a river which almost washes its walls, and gaze out on the garniture of hill and vales, I am conscious of pleasure which London or New York cannot afford. What we sadly want, in our happy and glorious country, is to cir- cumscribe the beautiful, and learn the knack of creating rural scenery on a small scale in our sequestered villas and cottages. HENEURY COTTAGES CHAPTER lY. HOX. AND REV B-'PTIST NOEL MR. GEORGE PEABODY OPERA DINNER AT RICHMOND — HON. STEPHEN A. DOUGLAS RECEPTION-NIGHT AT HON. J. B. IN&ERSOLL'S, THE AMERICAN MINISTER THE LORD MAY- OR'S SOIREE MR. DEPUTY BENOCH THOMAS PRICE, LL.D. TOOVEY 'S BOOKSTORE DEPUTATION FROM SOUTHAMPTON TONE OF ENGLISH FEELING TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES AN ENGLISH TRAVELLER STREET AMUSEMENTS SCENE IN AN OMNIBUS. On our first Sunday morning in London, a party was formed to hear the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Noel, brother to the Earl of Gainsborough. Mr. Noel was formerly chaplain to the queen; but, a few years ago, he became a dissenter. He preaches in a very plain meeting-house, formerly occupied by the Rev. John Harrington Evans, also a Baptist dissenter from the national establishment. The place of worship will accommodate about one thousand persons, when the galleries are filled. The congregation is large. We found every seat filled, and benches in the aisles. Mr. Noel is about fifty-four years of age, and looks much younger. He is a fine figure, and has a resemblance to the engraving of Bishop Heber. The singing was congrega- tional, without any organ ; all present seemed to unite, and the effect was excellent. The tunes were such as every one recog- nized. I remember that Oswestry and Helmsley were used that morning. We were much gratified with the prayer ofiered. It was uttered slowly ; the petitions were very minute and definite ; and there was a decided avoidance of anything like set phrases. The text was in the fifth chapter of the first Epistle to the Thessalonians, from first to the fifth verse : " But of the times and seasoms, brethren, ye have no need that I write unto you," MR. GEORGE PEABODY. OE LONDON. 47 &a. The congregation seemed furnished with Bibles, and every one appeared to turn to the text. The discourse was expository ; and not often have I listened to such a noble specimen of lectur- ing from the desk. I have heard this preacher when he was far more eloquent, but never when he appeared to finer advantage as a religious instructor. We left St. John's Chapel much pleased with its distinguished minister, and we should all like to listen again to his solenni teachings. One of the first persons to call upon Mr. Yanderbilt and his family in London was our distinguished fellow-citizen, Mr, George Peabody, whose generous hospitality to his countrymen has rendered him so well known to hundreds who have visited the metropolis. Possessed of ample means, this gentleman delights in paying attentions to all who come to him with proper claims upon his notice. Probably no American resident in Eng- land has done as much as Mr. Peabody in bringing the best men of England and America together, and thus cementing a strong national friendly feeling. The celebration of the fourth of July, 1851, by Mr. Peabody, when he entertained a thousand guests, and had among them the Duke of Wellington, and many others of the peerage, was a measure that, a few years ago, would hardly have been anticipated; and, indeed, cautious folks dissuaded the large-hearted man from attempting it. Mr. P. proffered Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt and ladies the use of his boxes that evening at the opera, and as long as they remained in town. The following notice of the opera was furnished me by the kindness of one of the gentlemen of our party, who was present : "OrERA IN LONDON. " Meyerbeer's great opera, ' Les Huguenots,' was represented at Covont Garden. It was the height of the season ; a large and fashionable assemblage filled the house; England's favorite, 48 OPERA. Queen Victoria, and Prince Albert, were there, and many of the fairest and noblest of the land; yet we were disappointed. The spectacle was not so gorgeous and brilliant as we had expected on a court-night, — neither in the first coup d'ceil, the beauty of the ladies, nor the elegance of their toilet. The theatre is vast, and handsomely decorated ; but the boxes, being very deep, and partitioned off all the way up, conceal half the occupants, and present an air of heaviness. The queen and her suite occupied three double boxes, on the left side of the stage. She came in shortly after the overture was played. There was no ostentation in her manner, and no recognition by the audience of the pres- ence of majesty. The royal fliuteuil, placed in the centre of the box, did not seem to please her ; and, declining the proffered aid of the lords-in-waiting, she, with perfect nonchalance, rose, and drew another chair from the back to the front, and seated her- self. The queen is very robust and youthful-looking. She wore a rich white dress, exceedingly decolte, covered with point lace, and one ornament of great value — a magnificent pearl — on the stomacher. She wore no diadem, or insignia. " Prince Albert is a tall, stout-looking man, light-haired, and partially bald. His appearance was anything but aristo- cratic, notwithstandino; he exhibited a large star on his left breast, and a wide crimson silk riband over a white waistcoat. The queen and her royal consort were very quiet, and attentive to the performance. They left, shortly before it terminated, with as little ceremony as they had entered. " We searched scrutinizingly among the noble circles to dis- cover something in form or feature marking the stamp of hered- itary nobility ; but in vain. There were some exceptions, though not numerous enough to characterize the mass ; and we concluded that, divested of their rank and privileges, they were only com mon clay, after all. " The opera was glorious. The whole ' get up ' was grand, far surpassing anything ever seen in America ; — the scenery well OPERA — MR. PEABOLY's DINNER. 49 painted, and admirably ilJustrative of the times represented; the stage business thoroughly managed; a powerful and efficient chorus ; a numerous and exquisitely-trained orchestra, led by the famous Costa, and the principal roles sung and acted by Grisi, Mario, Castellan, Formes and Belletti. Some of us, who had heard Grisi a dozen years before, remarked that her voice had measurably lost its freshness and volume, while her figure had gained in stoutness. But the irresistible attractions of her sublime declamation, her impassioned acting, and the enchanting tenderness of her smile, remained with undiminished power. Mario has the loveliest voice ever heard in man, at the same time virile and sonorous. He is still in the prime of his remark- able manly beauty, and still, without compeer, the first tenor in the world. Castellan has not improved since she visited Amer- ica. Her singing is flexible and brilliant, cold and unsympa- thetic. Formes — now that Lablache's once Titan powers are on the wane — stands at the head of all bassos. His voice is very remarkable, — the most powerful in the low notes, and the deepest, known ; it moves, as it were, in solid squares. Belletti, Jenny Lind's favorite singer, took the part of San Bris. For him it was an ungracious role, and he did not show to advantage. It was mainly recitative. We missed those beautiful cantabile airs which, in the concert-room, made him the unrivalled bari- tone. The opera in London is a wonderful performance ; the audiences there are more appreciative than in the New World, and the tout ensemble produces an efi"ect impossible to conceive from any description." Four of our party accepted an invitation to dine with Mr. Peabody at Bichmond, to meet Mr. Senator Douglas, who, like ourselves, was taking a tour of observation. No one who has read much respecting England can fail to know that Bichmond has long been renowned for its exquisite scenery. It was called by the Saxons the " Shene^'" or beautiful. Thomson, the poet 60 RICHMOND ^— HON. J. R. INGERSOLL. of the Seasons, wrote many of his sweetest descriptions while staying in this place ; and his immortal poem is almost a pano- rama of the scenery for ten miles around. On the hill the spectator obtains a view of the most impressive panorama of English landscape which the country affords. I would advise all travellers, who can afford the time, to devote a day or two to this vicinity. In Richmond Park there are the pleasantest walks, and oaks which might awaken the devotion of a Druid ; and the American tourist is reminded of the oak-opening in Michigan. The traveller will not fail to be charmed with Kings- ton, Ditton, Hampton Court, and Bushy Park. The dinner was an elegant repast, and we met at table a number of our country- men whom it was a pleasure to meet; — among others, Gen. Cooper, of New York, — who, with his family, have made a very extended European tour, — Captain Folsom, &c, Mr. Douglas made a very sensible and eloquent reply-speech ; and I think that all who were present were much gratified with his practical, enlightened and patriotic views. Our minister at the Court of London — the Hon. Joseph R, Ingersoll — held a levee during our stay in town, to which Mr. A^anderbilt and his friends received an invitation. The attendance was large, and the party a very fashionable one. The display of diamonds was very brilliant. General attention was directed to Mr. Vanderbilt, who was quite the man of the occasion ; and all seemed desirous to obtain an introduction to one whose excursion was the great topic of newspaper correspondence and general conversation. Mr. Inger- soll was very courteous, and, with his accomplished niece, Miss Wilcox, seemed desirous to render us every facility to make our visit in London agreeable. At this entertainment many of the nobility expressed an earnest wish that Mr. Vanderbilt would bring his yacht round to the Thames, and enable the fashionable world — then, of course, in London — to visit the North Star. Mr. V. would have been glad to gratify these requests ; but he had no desire to take a step which might appear like ostentation, LORD MAYOR — ^ARTY AT MANSION HOUSE. 51 and, moreover, he feared that the steamer would probably meet with obstructions in the river. On the 8th of June Mr. and Mrs. Yanderbilt, and several members of their family, attended a soiree, at the Mansion House, to which we had been politely invited by the Lord Mayor. This was a favorable occasion to observe the splendor of a Lon- don civic entertainment. The magnificent apartments are worthy of England's metropolis. We were courteously received by the chief magistrate and the Lady Mayoress. The Lord Mayor, this year, is the Right Honorable Thomas Challis, a wealthy merchant in hides, and a member of Parlia- ment. This gentleman is a distinguished dissenter, and belongs to the body of Christians known as " The Connection of the late Countess of Huntingdon." His lordship is the treasurer of the college at Cheshunt, where the clergy of this denomination receive their theological training. On this occasion there were, probably, some twelve or fifteen hundred persons present, in- cluding the Archbishop of Canterbury and seven other prelates, several members of the British cabinet, and a large number of the peerage. The party embraced many distinguished literary men, and Mr. Carlyle had many attentions shown him. The ball-room over the great Egyptian hall was filled with a unique collection of educational apparatus; and this had been placed here for the examination of the party, many of whom were dele- gates from all parts of the kingdom, attending a great educa- tional meeting. A more interesting spectacle than was here afforded can hardly be imagined; and, with such means and appliances as we saw, the schools of Great Britain must be in a prosperous condition. Maps, charts, globes and philosophical apparatus, were everywhere to be seen ; and the access to the room was crowded quite as densely as that leading to the place for refreshment. Among other distinguished visitors, I noticed Miss Greenfield, the " Black Swan," who was attended by a colored gentleman 5 52 REV. DR. COX — DR. PRICE — BIBLIOPOLISTS. It would be wrong to omit mention of our obligations to Mr, Deputy Benocli, whose polite attentions will be long remembcrerl by many of the North Star party. This gentleman was exceed- ingly kind in pointing out the notables assembled. I felt pained at the necessity imposed upon me to be appar ently neglectful of many dear and valued friends in London and its neighborhood ; but a stay limited to ten or twelve days, and many of which were entirely due to those of the party who were in London for the first time, precluded the possibility of calling on many whom I longed to see. We visited the Rev. Dr. Cox, of Hackney, — so well known in America from his visit, in company with Dr. Hoby, in 1835. We found the venerable man in usual health, and little supposed that his death was so near an event. On our arrival at New York, we learned that he died September 5th. ' We had the pleasure to spend some delightful hours with Thomas Price, LL.D., the distinguished editor of the Eclectic Revieiv, one of the ablest English periodicals, and which always has in its support the ablest pens of the liberal party. In this review appeared the best productions of the late John Foster. I made several agreeable lounges at the great bookstores of London, and was especially delighted with the glorious collection of old books at Mr. Toovey's, 42 Piccadilly. This vast library is peculiarly rich in works illustrative of English history, and I never met with so many of the county historians as are here gathered together. If any man wants to see the finest pos- sible specimens of binding, let him call at Toovey's, where he will find the work of Lewis, Payne, Duseuil, Derome, Montague, I^althoeber, and all the best binders of past times. On one occasion, I met with three distinguished bibliopolists at this shop, — Lord Hastings, Sir David Dundass, and Mr. Henry Foss. These gentlemen all spoke of the large collections of books, of high character, which are constantly exported to order from the United States, and raising the prices of old standard works as a MAYOR OF SOUTHAMPTON'S INVITATION. 53 consequence. It was gratifying to hear their remarks in relation to our United States ministers to the court of London, It was observed that no country had ever sent such a number of great men as the United States, — Adams, Jay, Pinkney, King, Galla- tin, J. Q. Adams, Rush, Bancroft, Everett and Ingersoll, were regarded as first-class men ; whilst Stevenson and Abbot Law- rence have left an enviable reputation as gentlemen of the true old English school. It gave us much pleasure to meet with a large number of our fellow-citizens, from different states in the Union, while we were in London ; and they all appeared happy to pay their respects to one so well known at home as Mr. Van- derbilt. I found my old friend, the Hon. J. T. Van Allen, late U. S. Charge d'Affaires at Equador, still enjoying the best English society, and as happy as I left him in 1851. "While we were in this place, a deputation from Southampton waited on Mr. Yanderbilt, consisting of the mayor of the town and several members of the corporation ; the object of their visit was to present an invitation to Mr. V. and his party to partake of a public entertainment proffered by the principal merchants and tradesmen of that borough. This kind expression of public sentiment would have been respectfully declined ; but it was found that such arrangements had already been made, that it would be wrong to disappoint the wishes of the good people of the town. I wish to offer some remarks upon the tone of feeling which I found prevalent in England, with those persons in whose society I happened to pass my time, in relation to the United States. There is a very general sentiment and pride entertained by the country at our wonderful success and advancement in the scale of nations, arising from the fact that we are of English origin. An Englishman loves to think that those who speak his language, and have the laws of his land, and the religion of his fathers, should have in less than eighty years become a government reckoning twenty-five millions. He is pleased to hear of our 54 ENGLISH FEELING TOWARDS AMERICA. extensive resources as regards variety of climate ; and you can seldom talk with any person in England who has not a relative, dear friend, or former neighbor, now settled in the Union. If the United States should ever be placed in a critical position, and her interests be at stake, England would rise up, with the voice as of one man, and fly to our aid. The liberty of speech is quite as well understood in England as with us, and as freely indulged; nothing social, religious, political, escapes their scrutiny and discussion; the popular mind has been directed to great subjects, and important results have been effected by public opinion. There is a disposition to regard all reforms as possible ; and the great subject of slavery is one that has taken hold of the public mind far more than it has ever interested the govern- ment. Hence all classes talk of slavery in America as a thing that can be reached, — ay, and easily. This arises from total unacquaintedness with the political relations of our country, and the state of parties in our political world. Only let an intelli- gent Englishman reside in the States a year or two, or travel through it, and he is almost sure to correct his opinions, and moderate his censures, upon this vexed point. We are far too sensitive about foreign sentiment respecting our habits, manners and institutions. Perhaps we are too exacting ; we are cer- tainly foolishly impatient under criticism, and this is encouraged by a few heady, reckless men who have the control of newspapers, and who, by thoughtless and even wicked articles, strive to kindle up a bad feeling between the two countries, who have more in common between them of momentous interest than any other two nations on the globe. I have never known a sensible American, who visited England, who did not leave it with in- creased respect for English character ; and I am sure that all sensible, educated Englishmen who visit our shores find enough to praise ; and they would say, " If we must change England for anoth3r land, let our homes be in America ! " The influence of America upon Great Britain is felt more and ENGLISH OPINIONS — STREET AMUSEMENTS. 55 more every year. Our intercourse must be very intimate. Not only will England need our cotton ; she wants our wool (which she believes will soon be the best in the world), our wheat, our corn, our beef, pork, hams, cheese and butter; and, if we provide these things for her market, we must become a great manufactur- ing people as well, and still we shall be the best customer for her exports. The severest censures I heard upon our country came from men of great wisdom, and benevolence, and practical good sense; and I confess that I think their remarks have much force, and that there is too much occasion for their utterance. They express a fear that there is not in our country a sufficient pride in labor ; that we are already regarding it with aversion, and that luxury is likely to be our bane. We do want more nationality, more patriotism; and the people are far too prone to value that which has crossed the ocean to that which is fabricated at their own doors. A very wise and thinking man, who had gone through our country, told me in England that the most justifiable object of pride he saw in America, to an American, was Lowell. The remark was also made by this gentleman, that in his visit he was grieved to find the children of men who had grown rich by labor regarding all employment as dishonorable. Certainly our large cities do afford sad instances of a purse- proud spirit ; and the only hope is, that when wealth is lavished, expended, the next generation must go to work again; but the contagion of example, and the want of virtuous and wise training, will first bring a sad harvest of crime, folly and misery, to society. Few things amused our party more than the out-door, street exhibitions in London. In Jermyn-street, directly in front of our hotel, every afternoon a set of men in semi-mountebank and Highland costumes went through all sorts of fetes, rivalling the Ravel family. The party consisted of three or four, and some- times five. The street was regarded as their legitimate board, and cloths were laid down and the antics played ofi" without any hindrance from the police, who frequently looked on. The 5=^ 56 ASCOT RACES. eyes of tlie performers were often directed to the windows of our hotel and one opposite ; and I fancy the returns were tolera- bly satisfactory, as they came day by day. The Happy Family, too, proved a constant source of interest ; while Punch and Judy proved as. omnipotent in attraction as they were in the beginning, and ever will be. Mr. Vanderbilt and some of the gentlemen attended the Ascot races ; and, in going over from Windsor, they occupied seats in an omnibus, and the subject of conversation happened to be the American steam yacht at Southampton. One of the persons present said that he had been to see her, and gave a pretty glowing account of the North Star. He spoke of her elegance and accommodations at full length, and then ended by remark- ing that the commodore was a wide-awake man ; that he had twelve sons on board, and made them work the ship ; and that he saw seven or eight of them rowing the barge ashore. Mr. V. and his son, sitting next to the speaker, smiled and laid low. CHAPTER Y. INTEREST EXCITED BY ARRIVAL OF THE NORTH STAR LONDON DAILY NEWS DULWICH GALLERY MR. THOMAS COLLEY GR ATTAN A QUICK TRIP TO LEIPSIC OUR RETURN TO SOUTHAMPTON VISIT TO NETLEY ABBEY HISTORICAL NOTICE — SCENERY REV. DR. KREBBS EXCUR- SIONS REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN SERVICES OF THE SABBATH, The arrival of the North Star in England was an event which called out the attention of the public press all over the kingdom ; and' the London daily papers contained numerous descriptions of the ship, and various articles upon her proprietor and his undertaking. Some of them were amusing enough. The follow- ing article appeared in the London Daily News, June 4 : " A WORD ABOUT MPw VANDEUBILt'S YACHT. "An American merchant has just arrived in London, on a pleasure trip. He has come by train from Southampton, and left his private yacht behind him in dock at that port. This yacht is a monster steamer. Her saloon is described as larger and more magnificent than that of any ocean steamer afloat, and is said to surpass in splendor the Queen's yacht. The walls of the dining-room are clothed with a new material, resembling polished marble and malachite. The building of the vessel alone cost one hundred thousand pounds. The expense of keep- ing it up is three hundred pounds a week. Listening to the de- tails of the grandeur of this new floating palace, it seems natural to think upon the riches of her owner, and to associate him with the Cosmo de Medicis, the Andrea Fuggers, the Jaques Coeurs, the Richard Whittingtons, of the past ; but this is wrong. Mr. 58 LONDON DAILY NEWS. Vanderbllt is a sign of the times. The mediaeval merchants just named stood out in bold relief from the great society of their day. Mr. Yanderbilt is a legitimate product of his country, — the Medicis, Fuggers, and others were exceptional cases in theirs. They were fortunate monopolists, who, by means of capital and crushing privileges, sucked up the wealth of the community. They were not a healthy growth, but a kind of enormous wen on the body politic. It took Florence nearly fifteen centuries to produce one Cosmo, and she never brought forth another. America was not known four centuries ago ; yet she turns out her A^anderbilts, small and large, every year. America, which was only discovered by a countryman of Cosmo running against it by mistake on his way to the Indies, is the great arena in which the individual energies of man, uncramped by oppressive social institutions, or absurd social traditions, have full play, and arrive at gigantic development. It is the tendency of American institutions to foster the general welfare, and to permit the unchecked powers of the highly gifted to occupy a place in the general framework of society which they can obtain nowhere else. The great feature to be noticed in America is that all its citizens have full permission to run the race in which Mr. Vanderbilt has gained such immense prizes. In other countries, on the contrary, they are trammelled by a thousand restrictions. Look, for instance, at the land to which the dis- coverer of America was hastening, as he thought, when he ran against the New World. Look at India. The whole wealth of the country is absorbed, and the development of its industry is checked, by a government that hangs like an incubus over it, and paralyzes its free motion. Its capacities for wealth are enormous, but no one makes use of them. Its population is stationary or degenerating. It can with difficulty pay up the revenue which its masters exact from it. It is becoming bankrupt, and will be perhaps chargeable to the mother country. Its hundred millions of inhabitants vegetate in poverty, their ideas limited to the LONDON DAILY NEWS. 59 narrowest of all spheres. AVhile hundreds of thousands of emi- grants are pouring annually into America, and becoming absorbed into the population of that country, adding to its wealth and their own, India is a sealed territory to nearly all except those who have friends in Leadenhall-street or Cannon-row. What can man do in a country like India, but vegetate among the oppressed, or live the life of a Sybarite among the oppressors? Is it won- derful that at the first sound of the railway whistle the Lotos- eating lords of the land should rush away up the country, far away from a sound which everywhere is connected with energy, wealth, activity, freedom and progress ? " But it will be said — why ^s the greatness of America to be unnaturally magnified by being compared with India ? Why not compare it with England, where there are free institutions, immense manufactures and commerce, and where there is no more impediment to a man's becoming a Vanderbilt than in America? Walk into the E-oyal Exchange in the afternoon just before four o'clock, and you could be shown numbers of men who could do — if they thought it worth the while — everything that Vanderbilt has done, twice over. Look at Liverpool. Look at Manchester. Are not men of colossal fortunes to be found there ? Is there anything in the air or the institutions of these towns to prevent men becoming possessors of incomes that are reckoned by tens of thousands ? Possibly not : but there is some- thing in the air or the institutions of the country of which these towns are a fraction that prevents these men living as becomes the creators of stupendous fortunes by their own industry. Your men of rank here — your makers of millions for themselves, and tens of millions for the country — too often spend their time, their intellect, their labor, in order that they may be able to take rank among a class of men who occupy their present position in virtue of what was done for them by some broad-shouldered adventurer, who, fortunately for them, lived eight hundred years ago in Normandy. Those who ought to be the Yanderbilts of 60 LONDON DAILY NEWS. England would shrink from employing tlieir wealth in the mag- nificent manner adopted by their American friend. They would dread the efi'ect of making any unusual display, which would surely subject them to the reproach of being millionaires and parvenus. Here is the great difi'erence between the two countries. In England a man is too apt to be ashamed of having made his own fortune, unless he has done so in one of the few roads which the aristocracy condescend to travel by — the bar, the church, or the army. And, if he is vulgar enough not to be ashamed of himself, his wife and children make amends, by sedulously avoid- ing everything which can put other people in mind of their origin. It was thought something superhumanly heroic in Sir Robert Peel to confess that he was the sou of a cotton-spinner, although everybody knew it. Persons who have perused the biography of Mr. Pendennis will remember how the gifted and hard-working father of that gentleman looked back on his long and useful career in the medical profession as a thing to be especially forgotten, and never thought himself a true man till he was enabled to stand in gaiters, like a true landed proprietor, at the gate of his miniature domain of Fair-oaks. The ancestral Pendennis of the medical profession is the type of English society. " Does the reader see what looms through these parallels ? We wish to point out, as we have pointed out before, the essen- tial weakness, the vicious condition, of English society. In precisely the same manner (although in an infinitely greater degree) as the English army is damaged by the ' cold shade of aristocracy,' so are English society and the English nation vitiated by the aristocratic prejudices that run through it. Between the cobbler who patches a shoe, and the merchant who imports the leather to make it, there are some three or four grades, the members of each of which would scorn to associate with those of the grade below. The merchant himself hopes that he or his children may ^valk at last amongst the lords of the land, and, LONDON DAILY NEWS. 61 as a step to this, he takes care to have his children educated where they shall lose all traces of the impressions that may have been made upon them by those who dwell in his own circle, and where they may acquire the habits and customs of the world to which he fondly hopes they may aspire. " It is time that the millionaire should cease to be ashamed of having made his own fortune. It is time that parvenu should be looked on as a word of honor. It is time that the middle classes should take the place which is their own, in the world which they have made. The middle classes have made the modern world. The Montmorencis, the Howards, the Percys, made the past world, — and they had their reward. Let them give place to better men. It is not the strong arm which now founds nations, or makes them great. The work has been taken out of the hands of the mighty in war, and given to those who are strong in council. — to the- lords of the elements, to the tamers of the great forces of nature. These must take their position. They must assert it, and scorn to put up with the faded distinctions that formed the glory of the ruling classes centuries back. There are men who feel this now. There are not wanting, even in this country, men who know their own dignity too well to think that it can be increased by being trans- planted to another circle of society. We want the Yanderbilts of England to feel what they are, and to show it. We don't ask each of them to build a monster yacht. We do ask that they would assert the greatness of their own position. We do require that they shall do everything, by providing amply for education, to elevate the class to which they belong, and put it upon the level to which it is entitled. The middle classes of England are the creators of its wealth, and the source of its power. Let them take example from America, and not shrink from acting as if they knew this. If they could be brought to let their children become as distinguished for high mental and moral cultivation, by an improved system of education, as they 62 DULWICH GALLERY. themselves are for their great practical knowledge, the classes which now virtually make the greatness of the country would become its actual rulers, and the only obstacles to its indefinite progress would be removed." The state of the weather is in England a never-failing topic of conversation among her population. This arises from its fre- quent changes. During our visit in London of ten or twelve days, we had no reason to complain; it was charming, and all the fine region about the city was seen to the best advantage. I could not be in London without a hasty visit to Dulwich, to take a look at my old favorite pictures, in a gallery which in early days seemed marvellous, and, now that I have seen other larger ones, still delights me ; for it contains less rubbish and mediocrity than almost any gallery I can mention. My admira- tion is always ready when 1 gaze at Rembrandt's Jacob's Dream, and the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, reputed to be a Guide. I pretend to no connoisseurship in painting, but I know that I am pleased with a good picture ; and I think I am never more alive to thought, nor more disposed to aifection, than when returning from a capital collection of paintings. I cannot omit to speak of the pleasure which we experienced in meeting with our friend Mr. Thomas Colley Grattan, who was formerly Her Majesty's consul at Boston. This gentle- man, so well known by his charming works of fiction and his admirable social qualities, is now resident in London, enjoying the finest health, and, as usual, the object of warm attachment to his numerous friends. The services which this gentleman rendered to his country during the period in which he repre- sented her in Massachusetts were most important; and to his kindness and humanity many a stranger in a strange land has been indebted for substantial, valuable aid, and judicious advice. England never had a more valuable representative in our country than Mr. Grattan. A QUICK TRIP TO LEIPSIC. 6S I fear that the ladies would hardly forgive me if I should not say that they experienced much enjoyment in a visit to Madame Tussaud's great Museum of notables in wax. Indeed, this is a wonderfully curious place, and it grows better worth a visit every year. Here is the noble old warrior, the late Warden of the Cinque Ports, sleeping that rest which knows no awakening till the last great trumpet sound. Here, too, is Napoleon's camp- carriage ; and a most comfortable one it is too ; it was captured at "Waterloo. I cannot mention a hundredth part of the groups and individuals here to be seen. The Royal Princes of Eng- land look like pretty children. We were pleased with Shaks- peare in his youth, bluff Harry and his six wives. Madame Tussaud is herself represented as in sleep, her bosom gently heaving at intervals, and an old man at the end of the couch looking on with great attention through his spectacles, slightly moving his head, as if in a meditative mood ; a woman, brushing by the old man's coat, turned round to apologize ! Here, too, was a superb Mosaic ta'ble offered for sale. On its surface was Napoleon and his twelve marshals. Some of the young folks visited the Chamber of Horrors. But we see too much of horror in every-day life to feel any great enjoyment in a retrospect of the terrible in a vast aggregate ; and so let this go by. I ought to mention that while we were in London Mr. Allen left us to take a hasty run to Leipsic, where he had a son in one of the best schools of that city. He had not seen his boy for three or four years, and parental affection, aided by rail-cars and steamboats, carried him to Germany and back in four days ; and we had the pleasure to welcome his son as a new member of our party, at least till our return from Russia to Copenhagen, when he would return to his studies. The presence of Mr. Wil- liam y. Allen was not only a great addition to the happiness of his parents, but was felt to be a pleasure by all on board. A right-minded youth, sensible and accomplished, he was always agreeable, and disposed to gratify his friends and acquaintances ; 6 64 VISIT TO NETLEY ABBEY. and his perfect knowledge of tlie German language often proved useful to us in many ways whilst we were at the North. On our return to Southampton, we at once addressed ourselves to excursions to Netley Abbey and the Isle of Wight. The abbey is the great lion of the neighborhood : and, like most of the ecclesiastical ruins of England, it remains a witness to the taste of its founders, who rarely neglected to select sites of extraordinary beauty for conventual purposes. The road is short, but pleasant. It leads over a fine wooden bridge, by the old Roman Clausentum. Noble residences and charming lodge cottages are in sight, and fine views are obtained of Southampton and its water. Before reaching the ruins, we passed the pretty village of Weston, of which delightful spot Miss Mitford has written so sweetly : " Wo might as soon describe a dream, As tell where falls each golden beam ; As soon might reckon up the sand. Sweet Weston, on thy sea-beat strand. As count each beauty there. Hills which the purple heath-bell shield^ Forest and village, lawn and field. Ocean and earth, with all they yield Of glorious or of fair." The Netley Hotel is a pretty Elizabethan erection, and from this point the first view is obtained of the abbey. Although the vicinity of Southampton is not characterized by any very bold or romantic scenery, having neither crag nor rocky moun- tains, yet it is full of quiet beauty, and has for ages attracted the invader, pirate and merchant. At a very early period it captivated the religious of the Catholic Church, and here they selected a home for worship and retreat. Romans, Norwegian sea-kings and Danes, all settled down f.t Southampton ; and Canute made it his great sea-port, and the city of Winchester, close by, was his capital". A monastery was established on the HISTORICAL NOTICE. 0$ west bank of the Itchen, one mile and a half from Southampton, in 1124, by a body of Black Canons. At the beginning of the 13th century, some Cistercian monks came from France and settled in the New Forest, half-way between Calshot and Hurst Point. Their convent they called Beaulieu. They erected a superb abbey, as we may judge from the few remaining relics. This body sent forth ' a colony, who reared the walls of Netley Abbey. The Cistercians, to whom Netley Abbey belonged, owed their origin to the Abbey of Citeaux, in Burgundy, and the order there commenced in 1098. Its spread and prosperity may be chiefly ascribed to the great energy of its third abbot, Stephen Harding. All Cistercian abbeys were dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Henry III. is sometimes regarded as the founder of Netley, and the date ascribed to its erection is 1239. At the dissolution of monasteries by Henry VIII., this body consisted of the abbot and twelve monks. The location is on the bank of Southampton-water, and three miles below the town, and nearly opposite the New Forest. It was formerly surrounded by terraces and fish-ponds, and the property was enclosed by a moat and wall, parts of which we found remaining. The style of architecture was the early Eng- lish at the period of its change to Gothic. All the principal arches are pointed, and the semi-circular arch is only used for strength and in small gateways. Netley is a fine specimen of the early transition style, and its leading feature was the use of the mullion, and slight tracery at the head of the windows. The abbey was built of stone from Purbeck, in Dorsetshire, and Caen, in Normandy. The dimensions of the abbey are two hundred and eleven feet in length, fifty -seven wide, one hundred and sixty at the transepts, and from ground to the top of the gables eighty feet. The impression produced on entrance is one of deep awe and reverence. The side walls present a long perspective of thick ivy, and the gray tops form a noble contrast of color. On 66 REV. DR. KREBBS. tte ground are ruins of the groined roof and various remains Ox the formed domestic apartments — for at the dissolution the build- ing was secularized. I have no time to describe the exquisite beauty of the aisles, the south transept, which is in better preser- vation than any other portion of the edifice ; nor can I do more than mention the east aisle of this transept, which constitutes the Ladye Chapel. The chancel is a spot where I could linger long, and fancy the solemn processions to the choir and altar during the three centu- ries in which, I doubt not, earnest and devout worship marked the services of good men, who, having sung the song of the mass on earth, are now singing the song of Moses and the Lamb in heaven. I do not believe that, in abjuring the errors of an idolatrous and apostate community, we are justified in denying that she has had the truly good and pious in her communion. A multitude, I love to think, have, in dark ages, made their way home to Zion with songs, and the ministrations of monks and friars may have been means of grace and imparted hopes of glory. All this I can cordially believe, whilst I regard the existence of Popery as one of the deadliest curses to the race, and anticipate its overthrow as the loveliest vision which the fulfilment of God's promises to his church is about to unfold, in answer to the prayers of the saints on earth and the redeemed in heaven. The east window was greatly admired by all our party. Amid its mutilations, the great mullion and the circumference remain ; and, festooned as it is with ivy, it fastens the eye of the be- holder. I have never seen more glorious masses of ivy, nor as many wall-flowers, as at Netley. Yet, I am forced to say, that this abbey will not bear comparison, for local beauty and archi- tectural grandeur, with my favorite Tintern. As we were making the inspection of these venerable ruins, a larg3 party drove up to the gateway, and we were all of us de- lighted to meet with our excellent friend, the Rev. Dr. Krebbs, of New York, who, with his party, had that morning landed at REV. ALEXANDER MACLAREN. 67 Portsmouth from a packet-ship ; and, with true American go- ahead energy, here they were, the same day, sight-seeing ; having taken the rail to Southampton, and commenced doing up England by a visit to Netley. Dr. Krebbs was in the pursuit of health; and it was a very pleasant thing for him to meet in the abbey with his own family doctor, "the beloved physician," Dr. Linsly. Here I may observe that our good doctor met in London with several of his patients, and rarely have I seen more cordial greetings than were exchanged. A warmer heart, full of sym- pathy for all the sorrows of the afflicted, never beat in human breast than in 'this excellent man, who, I imagine, must have been sadly missed by his numerous friends. Several of our friends made an excursion to the Isle of Wight, visiting Cowes, Ryde, and Osborne House, the marine villa of Queen Victoria. Others of us spent the day at Southampton, attending divine service. When in London, I had been strongly advised to hear the Rev. Alexander Maclaren, who was spoken of as an excel- lent preacher. I therefore determined to attend his meeting- house in the morning. It is known as Portland Chapel, and is a small and plain building, and very unlike what a Baptist church would be in such a town in America. The congregation was plain, and the house not quite full. Mr. Maclaren took his text from the 25th Psalm, 14th verse : " The secret of the Lord is with them that fear him," &c. I hardly know how to express my admiration of this discourse, or of the manner in which the entire service was conducted. I have heard Hall, and Chalmers, and Jay, Hamilton, Cummings, Noel, and other great preachers in England ; but I do not remember that I ever listened to a more impressive sermon. Mr. Maclaren is a Scotchman, of pre- possessing appearance, and his manners in the pulpit are natural and dignified. I have certainly heard nothing in England that is at all equal to this gentleman's oratory ; and then, aside from the attraction of manner, the reasoning was close and the per- 6# 68 SERVICES OF THE SABBATH. oration as pathetic and earnest as I can imagine to be possible,!. Dr. Krcbbs fully coincided in my estimate of the service. After service, I was invited to ofl&ciate in the evening ; but I felt too desirous to enjoy another gratification in listening to such instructions. The members of our party, too, vvere very anxious to attend again upon the service ; and, with quite an addition to our number, we were among the evening worshippers. I now found the chapel crowded, and it was with much difficulty that we were scattered round. The congregation, too, was of a very superior class of hearers to that I had seen in the morning ; and I felt sure that there were representatives from various con- gregations in the town. An American, who has never been in England, cannot understand the light in which Congregation- alists, Presbyterians, Baptists and Methodists, are regarded by the established church and its adherents. Talents, social worth, even wealth, seem to be regarded as nothing unless they are placed upon the altar of uniformity. The sermon of the evening was founded upon Psalms 8: 5, — "Lord, what is man," &c. The audience seemed to me held in a state of almost breathless silence and attention. The hold of the preacher on his hearers appeared to be like that of a prophet who had brought a mes- sage from " the Holy One." The imagery was grand, and was in the lips of a master in Israel ; and we all felt the force of the preacher's subject, — The Dig7iity of Ma?i. But, when he described man's apostasy and ruin, no one could fail to ex- perience the emotions of Job, who exclaimed, " I abhor myself in dust and ashes." We all of us retired from that humble sanctuary expressing the earnest wish that such a preacher might have a more fitting si^here for labor. And yet I know not that this is right. In the great gathering-day, I doubt whether any preacher of the gospel will feel that in this world his field of occupation was too limited ; while thousands will lament the extent of their responsibility, and will mourn over their omis- sions and short-comings in duty. CHAPTER VI. JUNE 13, THE BANQUET AT SOUTHAMPTON CARD OF INVITATION AP- PEARANCE OF TOWN VICTORIA ROOIMS MAYOR DINNER ACCOUNT OF PROCEEDINGS AND SPEECHES IN THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT EXCURSION OP THE NORTH STAR, WITH THE MAYOR AND INVITED GUESTS, ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT DINNER ON BOARD ACCOUNT TAKEN FROM THE HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT. I STATED, in my notice of our days in London, tliat a deputa- tion from Southampton had proffered Mr. Yanderbilt an invi- tation to an entertainment given by the citizens, and that the honor was accepted. On our arrival at Southampton, we found the streets placarded with notices of a public entertainment at the Victoria Rooms ; and a very superbly-engraved card, in gilt letters, with a fine likeness of the North Star in the centre, surrounded by gilt flags and the arms of Southampton, was ad- dressed to each member of the party. As a memorial of the voyage, I annex . the card of invitation which I received on the occasion : THE MAYOR, MERCHANTS AND TRADERS OF SOUTHAMPTON, Request the pleasure of the Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Choules' company at a Dejeuner, on Monday, 13 June, 1853, at the Royal Victoria Assembly Rooms, in honor of the visit of COMMODORE VANDERBILT, In his splendid Steam Yacht North Star. At 3 o'clock. Monday, the 13 th of June, was a most delightful day ; and when we came on deck we found the flags of the shipping in •^ VICTORIA ROOMS — RECEPTION. dock all gayly waving to the breeze, and noticed banners from the hotels and public buildings, while the church-bells were ring- ing merry peals of cheer and gladness. Everything denoted mirth and holiday, and our feelings were somewhat peculiar when we felt that all this was a matter in which we were personally concerned, and was intended for the honor of our ship, her owner, and our country. At twD o'clock r. m., carriages were on the dock, which had been most politely sent by the committee of arrangements, to convey the party to the Koyal Victoria Rooms, the scene of civic hospitality. The streets were full of spectators, and bells were pealing out sweet melody, as English parish bells alone can do it. On arriving at the Rooms, we were courteously received by the gentlemen in waiting, and were escorted through a fairy scene of winding stairs, all covered with evergreens and flags, into the saloon of reception, where we were presented to Mr. Lankester, the Mayor, who wore his gold chain of ofiice, and by him were introduced to the Lady Mayoress, and a large number of ladies and gentlemen. The room was spacious, and opened upon a terrace aflFording a charming view of the water ; and I noticed several venerable trees, and some small pieces of artillery, which were more for adornment than use ; a pretty fountain off to the left was an ornament to the terrace. At three o'clock the Mayor announced that dinner was ready, and led Mrs. Vanderbilt to the room, followed by Mr. Yander- bilt and the Lady Mayoress, and the rest of the company. The scene that opened upon our view was exceedingly striking, and we all thought that we had never beheld a dining-room so elegantly decorated. The flags of England and the United States were beautifully entwined, and the entire arrangements of the room were as elegant as possible. The tables were superbly arranged, and presented a fine display of plate, whilst the entertainment itself was of the richest character. The presence of nearly a THE BANQUET. 71 hundred ladies gave a charm to the occasion, and afforded us additional pleasure. I think I cannot do better than insert in this place the account of the banquet as recorded in the Hampshire Independent of Saturday, June 18, — a very excellent liberal paper, edited by my valued and eloquent friend, Mr. Falvey. I regard the description as very truthful and graphic. It may not be inappropriate here to remark, that whilst Mr. Yanderbilt has long been known to his fellow-countrymen by the title of Commodore Yanderbilt, — a compliment paid him as the veteran head of the steam navigation of the northern states, — yet he on no occasion used the appellation, or wished it employed. I allude to this, because the common use of the title in this nar- rative of the English press prevents my altering the phraseology. If anything, during the whole excursion to Europe, impressed me strongly as it regarded Mr. Vanderbilt's deportment, it was his uniform modest and dignified reserve, and avoidance of all pretence to ostentatious show and public notice. Often did he decline attentions which were pressed upon him at various points of our progress, and very frequently to the great disappointment of those who greatly wished to do him honor, and show their regard for his country. "THE AMERICAN STEAM YACHT NORTH STAR. PUBLIC BANQUET TO COMMODORE VANDERBILT. " The banquet to Commodore Yanderbilt, by the merchants and traders of Southampton, in acknowledgment of the compliment paid to this port as the high road between England and New York, in selecting it for his visit, and of the great courtesy shown to the public by throwing open his splendid yacht for general in- spection, came off at the Yictoria Rooms on Monday, with an idat which has never been surpassed by any previous entertain- ment of the kind that has taken place in this town. Of all tho 72 DECOKATION OF THE SALOONS. fraternal gatherings which have, of late years, characterized our port, none have gone beyond this one, either in point of interest, or the excellent and satisfactory manner in which the whole of the arrangements were carried out. The banquet took place at the Victoria Ptooms, and, notwithstanding the short time neces- sarily allowed for preparation, about two hundred persons, inclusive of the distinguished party of American guests, assem- bled on the occasion. *' The decoration of the room was assigned to Mr. Triggs, and most ably did he perform his task. Flags of all nations, in which the English and American colors, of course, were prominently displayed, hung round the room, which, added to the excellent effect produced by the peculiar ornamentation of the orchestra, and the graceful intermingling of wreaths and bouquets of flowers, a large floral star being suspended from the centre of the ceiling, rendered the appearance of the room, as soon as the doors were thrown open to the company, that of a large fairy bower. In- deed, we never saw the Victoria Rooms so beautifully decn-ated on any previous occasion. A handsome collection of green and hot-house plants and flowering shrubs was gratuitously sup- plied by Mr. William Rogers, sen., from his old-established nursery at Red Lodge and his floricultural establishment in the High-street, which were arranged by Mr. Sawyer, and had a most agreeable effect in connection with the other decorations of the room. " The lower room was set apart as a reception room, wherein the guests and visitors generally were received, on their arrival, by the Mayor and Mayoress ; and we need hardly say that Com- modore Vanderbilt and his family received a hearty welcome on their arrival. The day being beautifully fine, the company prom- enaded the grounds till the banquet was announced to be ready, which, together with a suspension of lines of flags between the trees and the balconies, and the performances of a capital brass band which was stationed on the green, drew crowds of specta- THE COMPANY PRESENT. 78 tors along the western shore road, which runs in front of the grounds, bj whom the gay and exhilarating scene ajopeared to be much enjoyed. In the banqueting-room a full and highly effi- cient quadrille band, under the direction of Mr. F. Targett, occupied the orchestra ; and a party of vocalists from London, consisting of Mr. Kansford, Mr. Ransford, jun., and Miss Hans- ford, lent their powerful aid to the general harmony of the festive gathering. "The Mayor of the borough (J. Lankester, Esq.) presided with great ability, supported, right and left, by the American guests, who comprised Commodore Vanderbilt and lady, D. B. Allen, Esq., and lady, Gr. A. Osgood, Esq., and lady, W. K. Thorne, Esq., and lady, Horace Clark, Esq., and lady, Dr. Linsly and lady, N. B. Labau, Esq., and lady, D. Torrence, Esq., and lady, W. H. Vanderbilt, Esq., Jun., and lady, Master Gr. W. Vander- bilt, Miss Vanderbilt, Miss Thorne, Mr. W. Allen, Capt. A. Eldridge and lady, Bev. Dr. Choules and lady, and Mrs Cross. Amongst those present we also noticed Mr. Deputy Bennoch (from London), the Mayoress, Mr. Alderman Andrews and lady, Mrs. Croskey, the Bev. J. W. Wyld, Mr. Alderman Palk and lady, Mr. Alderman Allen, Mr.^lderman Tucker, Mr. Alderman Bienvenu, Mr. Sheriff Aldridge; Councillors Blatch, Graham, Copeland, Scovell, Borrett, Degee, Buchan, Davies, Brinton; Capt. Peacock, Mr., Mrs. and Miss Mayes, Mr. and Mrs. Pegler, Mr. and Mrs. H. J. Buchan, Mr. Falvey, Mr. and Mrs. T. P. Payne, Mr. W. Lankester, the Messrs. Sharps, Mr. and Miss Bandal, Miss Sharp, and many other of the leading tradesmen of the town and their ladies. *' The following letters were received in reply to invitations to attend the banquet : " ' Legation of the United States, London , 11th June, 1853. " ' My Dear Sir : I have just received the very kind invitation of the Mayor and Stewards, so obligingly forwarded by you, to H LETTERS OF APOLOGY. be present at a dejeuner to be given by the Major, merchants, and traders of Southampton, to Commodore Vanderbilt and family, on Monday next. " ' I regret exceedingly that an important engagement, made many days since, for Monday, must deprive me of the honor of being present on this interesting occasion ; and I regret this the more, as H. E. Mr. Ingersoll being also engaged, the American Legation must be unrepresented. " ' Having been the recipient, on more than one occasion, of the hospitality of your excellent Mayor and Corporation, I can readily anticipate how much enjoyment your guests will receive on this occasion, " ' I beg you to present my respects to his worship the Mayor, and accept for yourself the sentiments of kind regard with which " ' I have the honor to be, dear sir, " ' Your obliged and obedient servant, " ' T. B. Lawrence. " ' Charles E. Deacon, Esq.' " • 45 Portland-place, London, June llth, 1853. " ' Mr. Ingersoll has the honorto acknowledge the receipt of the kind invitation of the Mayor, merchants and traders of South- ampton, to a dejeuner, on Monday, the 13th of June, to receive Commodore Vanderbilt and family ; and he particularly laments that engagements, previously formed, will prevent him from hav- ing the pleasure of joining the agreeable and distinguished party.' «« « London, June 11th, 1853. " * Mr. Peabody sincerely regrets that having invited a large party to dinner at Blackwall on Monday, the 13th he will be deprived of the pleasure of waiting on the Mayor, merchants, and traders of Southampton on that day, according to their kind invitation.' LETTEES OF APOLOGY. 75 " ' Jane IZtk, 1853. " 'My Dear Sir: May I request you to communicate to Mr. Blayor, and the other gentlemen who have done me the honor to invite me to the fete to be given in honor of your Amexican guests, my great regret that pressing and important business pre- vents the possibility of my attending. " ' I am, faithfully yours, '"A. E. COCKBURN. "'C. E. Deacon, Esq.' " ' 23 Portman-square, London, 11th June, 1853. " * My Dear Sir: I very much regret that it will be quite out of my power to avail myself of the invitation with which your Mayor has honored me for Monday next, to welcome Commodore Vanderbilt and family. I shall be in Committee all day, and in the evening have to watch a motion in connection with a railway company affecting the interests of my constituents. " ' I shall feel obliged to your worthy Mayor if he will kindly say as much on my part to the commodore, and assure him that I really feel vexed that I cannot be present to welcome so dis- tinguished a fellow-laborer in steam navigation, but that I still hope the opportunity may occur before he leaves Europe. " ' Very truly yours, '"B. M. WiLLCOX. " ' C. E. Deacon, Esq.' " ' Mansion House, June 11/A, 1853. " ' Mr. Mayor : I am requested by the Lord Mayor to say that he fears his engagements will render it impossible for him to comply with your kind invitation ; but that, if it should be possi- ble for him to leave town at the time, it will afford him great pleasure to do so. " ' I am, sir, your very obedient servant, " ' C. R. Edmonds. " ' The Mayor of Southampton.' 7 76 DINNER — TG,«_STS. « ' 61 Cornhill, 11th June, 1853. " ' Mr. Sheriff and Alderman Carter presents his compliments and hopes the pleasure of meeting the Mayor of Southampton on Monday next, the 13th inst. " ' Charles E. Deacon, Esq., &c. &c. &c.' " The dejeuner and dessert was served by Mr. Gibbs, whose catering gave much satisfaction to the company. The wines were of first-rate quality, the champagne and hock being sup- plied by Mr. F. Perkins, and the remainder of the wines by Messrs. Maber and Parker. Indeed, every department was done full justice to by the gentlemen to whom they were respectively assigned. " Gi-race before meat was offered by the Rev. J. W. Wyld, and at the close the grace, ' For these and all thy mercies ' was chanted by the Messrs. E-ansford in beautiful style. " The first toast given by the chairman was the health of the Queen, which was drank most enthusiastically, and followed by the band playing the National Anthem, the air of which was beautifully sung by Miss Hansford, the whole company standing and joining in the chorus. " The chairman next gave the health of Prince Albert — the beloved consort of Her Majesty, the patron of the arts and sciences, and the warm advocate of the comfort and happiness of the whole community. Drank with loud applause. " Glee — ' Where art thou, beam of light ! ' " The chairman, in proposing the next toast, said that, in the ex- ercise of their undoubted prerogative, the American nation had chosen a form of government different from our own, which had worked in an unparalleled degree, in the history of the world, for the welfare of that country. (Hear, hear.) They had estab- lished a republic, instead of a monarchy, with a president chosen every four years ; and under her successive presidents they had advanced to that state of unexampled prosperity which they now SPEECH OF MR. ALDERMAN LAISHLEY. 77 enjoy. (Hear, and cheers.) They had selected men of wisdom and talent, equal to the exigencies of the times, to fill that high and honorable office ; and he gave them, with much pleasure, the health of ' The present President of the United States of America.' *' This toast was received with loud and long-continued cheering, and the whole company rose and stood during the performance by the band of * Hail Columbia ; ' — a mark of respect to the ruling head of the American nation with which Commodore Yan- derbilt and his friends were much pleased. " Mr. Alderman Laishley rose to propose the next toast. He said he most sincerely and heartily congratulated the Mayor on his being honored with an opportunity, during his tenure of office, of entertaining as his guest so distinguished and worthy a repre- sentative of the American people. He rejoiced that these occa- sions of mutual good feeling and fellowship arose, from time to time. The people of Southampton had not forgotten, nor would they soon forget, when, for the first time in the history of their ancient town, there floated on our waters that noble specimen of the naval force of the United States, the St. Lawrence, in 1848, commanded by one of her most gallant sons, whose dignified bearing, whose courtesy and kindness, as well as that of the offi- cers under his command, and the orderly conduct of the crew, made an impression, not only on the corporation, but also on the inhabitants of the town at large, which neither time nor distance would be able to efi"ace. (Loud cheers.) And then there was the recollection of the second visit of that noble ship to our port on her mission of peace, bearing the contributions of that enterpris- ing people to the World's Exhibition. True, compared with tho show and the tinsel of some of those exhibited by the old states of Europe, they were apparently modest and unpretending, and at first rather excited a smile that they should have travelled so far only to go back again ; but, as day succeeded day, and weeks and months elapsed, they excited the attention of the practical T8 SPEECH. and philanthropic, the ingenious and inventive, — and what was the result ? Why, that amidst that world of competitors they carried off some of the highest prize,?, and the most distinguished honors. And, for this most obvious reason, that, while much that was glittering and dazzling was well adapted for the few, those were the very things which were everywhere wanting to promote and increase the comfort and well-being of the many. (Much cheer- ing.) Nor could they allow such an occasion as that to pass by without a renewed expression of their admiration of the gallant commander of that ship — on that occasion Captain Sands — and the distinguished officers under his command ; long might they live in the enjoyment of every good, an honor to their coun- try, and a blessing to the world ! For the visits of that noble vessel to this port they were indebted to the exertions and good opinion of a gentleman whom they all highly esteemed, and whose absence that evening was deeply regretted ; he meant Mr. Cros- key, the United States consul, who had so long and so honorably represented that government at this port. (Applause.) And, now they were most unexpectedly and happily favored by the visit of one of the most enterprising, successful, generous, and large- hearted men of that extraordinary j)eople, — one who, having, as he was informed, embarked a large amount both of capital and skill in the vastly-growing commercial interests of his country, had lived to see his public spirit, his gigantic intellect, his scien- tific attainments, rewarded with a success rarely, if ever, sur- passed in that or in any other country. (Cheers.) The people of Southampton might indeed well be proud of the distinction thus conferred upon them. He (Mr. Laishley) could well imagine how intense the interest felt by the gallant commodore and his amiable family, as they rounded the old Castle of Calshot, to find themselves steaming up that very river in a yacht, the magnificence of which was perhaps unequalled in the world, down which, in 1620, the Pil- grim Fathers, their honored ancestors, started in their frail bark of one hundred and eighty tons burden, for their distant and un- SPEECH. If known destination. (Hear, hear.) Talk about warriors and diplomatists; these were the men, wherever they were found, who were nobl}'' and successfully contributing to make the world one country and man one family (loud cheers), — men, upon whom Providence having smiled, had not only the power to get wealth, but the heart to diffuse it. It was by colossal intellects such as these that the pathway of the great deep was rendered not only safe and easy, but attractive and inviting too ; and that, not only to the hardy sons of the soil, the muscle and sinew of the human race, but to the gentleman, the scholar, the man of- literature and science — nay, to ladies, too, of education and station, and even of these some of the most fragile, and sensitive, and delicate, as they saw that evening, inducing them, without hesitation or ap- prehension, to visit lands the most distant, and people often the furthest removed from all their habits. " Bad sailor as he was, a look at that magnificent vessel, so snugly berthed within their docks, would • almost lead him to imagine that a voyage in her, at any time, and to any part of the world, would be nothing else than an occasion of pleasure, a very holiday festivity, on the spacious deck of which the voyager might breathe the pure air as freely, and, no doubt, often as plentifully, too, as he pleased, or unite with his fellow-travellers JA recreation and amusement — by day. beholding the wonders of ihe deep, and by night admiring the garniture of the heavens. (Applause.) In the superb saloon — a compartment which would not discredit the palace of Britain's queen — he might converse with authors of every age, and partake of the luxuries of every clime, assured, whether engaged in the one or the other, that, under the direction of the gallant commodore, his officers and crew, he was being safely wafted to his desired haven. It was only to gaze for a moment or two upon that noble specimen of marine architecture, to see, and to feel, too, that, as to the age in which they lived, it was, as to the discoveries of science and the inventions of art, the product, the flower, the cream, of all 7* 80 SPEECH. the ages past and gone. ' Nobody,' said the illustrious Prince Albert, some time since, ' can doubt for a moment that we are living at a period of wonderful transition, tending to that great end to which all history points — the realization of the unity of the human race.' Why, all that was wanting was, that men of all nations and kindreds should thus meet together, see each other, and talk together, to know, and to feel, too, that they were children of the same common Father — a world of brothers, in- tended to be drawn together by mutual interests and sympathies, instead of being divided and dissevered by mutual jealousies and antipathies. (Loud and prolonged cheering.) Who could estimate the effect which in a few years must be produced on the intel- lectual, the moral, the religious and the social condition of the world, by the rapidly increasing intercourse of the sons of man ? By these means it would be that both the geographical and po- litical barriers which from age to age had separated nation from nation — barriers which had rendered them, not only strangers, but enemies to each other — were being daily broken down and demolished. National prejudices and antipathies were every- where giving way, as opposed alike to the best interests of man, and to all the institutions of the Almighty. How terse and how truthful were the remarks of one of the earlier Presidents of the American Union — he believed it was Mr. Jefferson : — ' We, the Americans,' he said, ' ought, above all things, to cultivate the most friendly alliance and brotherhood with Great Britain, because she can do us more harm than any other nation ; and she ought, above all things, to cultivate the same friendly feeling towards us, because we can do her more good than any other people.' Hence, how important that, in accordance with the toast he had the honor to propose, all the deliberations of her Majesty's ministers and the statesmen of England and America should tend to promote the welfare of mankind and the civiliza- tion of the world ! But these gratifying reiinions, these friendly greetings, this social, happy intercourse, of the people of differ- SPEECH OF HIS HONOR THE MAYOR. 81 ent and distant nations, would tend far more to cement and ren- der permanent and enduring the bonds of universal brotherhood, than all the diplomacy of the one country or the other. (Hear, hear.) The toast he had to propose for their acceptance was — ' Her Majesty's Ministers, and the Statesmen of England and America : May ail their deliberations tend to promote the wel- fare of mankind, and the civilization of the world.' " ' Rode's Air,' with variations, was then sung by Miss Kans- ford, and loudly applauded. " The Mayor said he now came to the toast of the day (ap- plause), and, as usual, Mr. Laishley had so taken the wind out of his sails that he had left him little to say. But he remem- bered that he had at that moment sitting at his right hand one of the merchant princes of America (hear, hear), — a gentleman who owed his position entirely to his own industry, perseverance, and extensive knowledge of mankind. He had ever been an enemy to all monopoly, and that was the foundation of his great success. (Applause.) His aim had always been to abolish all mo- nopolies, and so he had created the important position which he now occupied in America. And, then, look at his family ! (Loud cheers.) He was not, like many of our anchorites, contented with amassing a large sum of money, but he had brought up a large and interesting family. (Hear, and cheers.) Commodore Yanderbilt was the largest steamboat proprietor in the United States ; and now, as a sort of frame to the picture, he had brought his splendid steam yacht into the Southampton waters, to show them what the Americans could do in the art of steam-ship building. (Loud applause.) He (the Mayor) was not going, on that occasion, to talk about the port of Southampton, but he could not help thinking that the commodore had shown singular good sense in bringing his yacht to this port. (Laughter and cheers. j The position of Commodore Vanderbilt in America was equal to that of any of the ducal houses in Great Britain. (Hear, hear.) He was the proprietor of large building establishments, and em- 82 MR. vanderbilt's reply to the toast. plojed more men than any other person in America. There must, then, be something in such a man (loud cheers), and he hoped that his career would be followed up for many years yet to come. The example he set showed to persons in this and other countries what might be done by industry, energy and per- severance, without being born to inherit fortune and wealth. (Applause.) He gave them, as a toast — ' Commodore Vander- biit : May every happiness accrue to himself and family during his interesting voyage, and every success attend all his spirited enterprises.' The toast was drank with enthusiastic applause, renewed again and again. " Band — ' The Star-Spangled Banner.' " Commodore Vanderbilt (whose rising was the signal for re- newed rounds of cheering) said : — Ladies and gentlemen, I am glad to see you. It affords me sincere pleasure to make your acquaintance. It shows that we are all one people (hear, hear), and I hope that, by the power of steam, our common countries will be so bound together that no earthly power can separate us. (Loud applause.) Since we landed in your beautiful town, we have made a hasty race over part of Her Majesty's dominions : and, were I able to express the gratification we have experienced in passing through the country and your town, and the interest we feel in all your citizens that we have had the happiness to meet, I am fearful you would construe it into an attempt to make a speech. But I must refer that task to my friend Mr. Clark, who will address you much better than I can possibly do. " The Mayor jocularly remarked that no one could question the right of the worthy Commodore to call on a gentleman to whom he had given one of his daughters to act as his substitute, and he was sure the company would listen with pleasure to Mr. Clark one of the Commodore's sons-in-law. (Applause.) " Mr. Clark received a hearty welcome, and, when the applause had subsided, spoke as follows : — Ladies and gentlemen, I rise iu obedience to the call made upon me by the gentleman whom MR. H. F. CLARK'S SPEECH. 83 you are pleased this day to honor. As a member of his family, as an individual privileged with this opportunity of meeting the gentlemen and ladies of England, I should have been glad to have remained in silence, gratified with your magnificent hospi- tality. But, when I recollect that the honorable gentleman from whom you have just heard a few words sustains to us one of the most sacred relations on earth (hear, hear), — that we have re- ceived from his hearth those who are the partners of our lives (hear), — that he, like your own illustrious admiral, expects every man on whom he calls to do his duty (great cheering), — when I remember these things, and the obligations we owe to him and to you for the honor you have done him, I feel that it would be out of place in me to refuse to respond to his call. We came from our homes in the far west, neither hoping nor expecting to receive such princely honors as those which you have conferred upon us. Commodore Vanderbilt constructed a steam yacht in accordance with his tastes, and at considerable expense, and in- vited us to visit, with him, this glorious land — the birth-place of our fathers. (Loud cheers.) If it has so happened, or shall so happen, that you find in this yacht anything to merit or receive your approbation, — about her construction anything tending to advance the general improvement of the age, and the growing commerce of the world, — Mr. Vanderbilt is already amply com- pensated. (Hear, and cheers.) His paramount object, in this visit, was our improvement and our pleasure, and to that he has amply contributed ; and the reception which he and his family have re- ceived on the occasion has been all that we could have asked, and much more than we could have anticipated. We left our homes in the far west, after taking farewell, for a season, of all our do- mestic pleasures and ties there left behind us, — a few days of unalloyed pleasure, passed in contemplation of the works of the Great Creator on his broadest and most glorious field, — a few nights of calm repose, undisturbed by danger or fear, — and, lo ! your magnificent shores burst upon our view. (Much cheering.) We had heard of your generous hospitality, which we are now 84 MR. CLARK'S SPEECH. enjoying. We had heard of your beautiful river, of the charming landscape scenery which surrounds you, and of your port, which oifers its great advantages to the commerce of the world. ^Hear, and cheers.) We had been told of your salubrious climate, and the unexampled growth of your city. We were, therefore, pre- pared for what we have seen. But when we arrived on a fine sunny morning, — when your beautiful river first opened to our view, — we little thought, till we so soon experienced it, that we should so truly find ourselves at home. Everything around us here looks like home. (Loud cheers.) Perhaps you have never visited New York, though but a short distance across the Atlan- tic. In its natural position it bears a strong resemblance to the great and ancient city in which I now stand, and from whose inhabitants we have received such kind and generous-hearted attention. The city of New York stands at the confluence of two vast and mighty rivers, whilst directly in front, to guard its commerce from the storms of the ocean, lies Staten Island, which your honored guest has enriched by his enterprise, and adorned by his taste. (Great cheering.) There lies New York, ofiering its noble harbor to the whole world, with one hand grasping the east, and another the west. Thus, also, do you lie at the confluence of two rivers, and in front, not our Staten Island, but your most beautiful isle, — the Isle of Wight, — to shield your commerce from the storms of the ocean, and to fur- nish you with the flowers of early spring. Have we not, I ask, a right to feel ourselves at home ? (Enthusiastic cheering.) We have not been treated as strangers, and we do not feel ourselves to be strangers. (Hear, hear.) We have one common origin. We speak one common language. We are all engaged in one common cause — the improvement of mankind. The English is our mother tongue ; our ears are attuned to its melodies, and we know no other. (Renewed applause.) Those who suppose that we are a difi'erent race X)rget that we are all one and the same people, and but one and the same. Your great names are our great names. Your past history is our past history. Your MR. CLARK'S SPEECH. 85 glorious future is our hope and our pride. We sprang from you. We are happy thus, as if returning home, to greet you (immense cheering), — to visit England, the renowned empire of which it has been well and truly said ' that her morning drum-beat, keep- ing time with the hours, encircles the earth in one continuous strain of the martial airs of England.' We are proud of the ancestry from whom we claim our descent. We have stood on the soil which holds the sacred remains of Milton and Shaks- peare. (Applause.) We have stood in the halls which once echoed with the eloquence of a Chatham, a Fox, a Pitt, and a Burke. (Continued applause.) Their fame is ours, as well as yours. All that you can say — all that the great Anglo-Saxon race who inhabit England can say — is that their ancestors were the countrymen of those men ; and so were mine. (Hear, and cheers.) It was little over two hundred years ago that the May- flower, with her precious freight of noble men, left your beautiful harbor for the stern and rock-bound coast of New England, and from the loins of one of those men he who now addresses you has descended. (Hear, hear.) How are we reminded of our home by everything we now see about us in England ! You doubtless all remember that, after the Mayflower left your port, she was compelled to put into Plymouth to be refitted. Starting again, they named the place of their landing in America Plym- outh. Within two hundred miles of that sacred spot now stand Newport, Southampton and Northampton — three of the most beautiful of our American towns. In view of all this, and of the welcome as generous as is this you have given us, I did not feel myself at liberty to refuse the call of my friend and father- in-law. (Applause.) We have now stood in England, and we are proud of you. We glory in your prosperity and advance- ment as in that of a parent. And it is right that this feeling should be mutual. Is this the first occasion in human history when a son feels proud of his father, and the father has still the same right to be proud of his son ? (Cheers.) Where is the English heart that does not glory in the prosperity of his child ? And I tell you there is no true American heart which does not glory in the prosperity of his father. (Great cheering.) We have, I again repeat, stood in England ; we have seen your institutions ; we have beheld and examined, as far as the short time we have been here would permit, your noble and illustrious charities ; and we have not failed to observe the universal good order and contentment which pervade your people. We have inspected your works of art. We have not failed to notice that everything around you is prospering, and that the only signs of decay are to be found in those old structures which you are so proud to preserve, and which attest the glory and antiquity of your country. (Loud cheers.) From the time of landing on your shores till this hour, we have felt one universal thrill of -admiration, which will not subside till we again reach our homes in the western world. We have been struck by the permanency and solidity of your structures, and, whatever may be the opin- ions of a few amongst you and us, who will dare to revile Eng- land and her institutions, we say it is utterly impossible for anything but admiration to be the general and abiding feeling. The convulsions of nature may, in the long ages of the future, overwhelm this island ; but, so long as the world remains, so long will England's usefulness be felt, and her power and glory be known and acknowledged. (Applause.) Your respected chair- man has been pleased to say that we Americans have chosen a form of government entirely different from your own ; but in that opinion I take the liberty of telling him he is mistaken. There is a great similarity between our respective forms of government. Some of the most conservative of our forms are taken from yours. Ours is based on the power of the people, and yours is the same in theory and in practice. We have a government of checks and balances; and so have you, for what your Parliament adopts must be sanctioned by the queen before it has the effect of law, and the sceptre of your queen is power- less without the will of your Lords and Commons. Ladies and INVITATION FOR AN EXCURSION. §^ gentlemen, come and visit us. (Loud cheers.) A few pleasant days, and a few pleasant nights, will land you on our shores. Visit and examine our institutions ; see how the rich protect the poor, and the poor respect the rights and property of the rich. Examine our laws, and you will find the Magna Charta of your own King John incorporated in every State of the Union — your far-famed Bill of Rights grafted on our statute-books. (Loud and prolonged cheering.) You will feel thoroughly at home. We will greet you as friends, and, if you see us at home, you will find the sure indicia of our English origin, and you will all come to the conclusion that we have no right to boast of any superiority over you, and you of none over us. (Renewed ap- plause.) There is no set of institutions so perfect that the one cannot derive aid and improvement from the other. (Hear.) I have intruded much longer upon your time and patience than I had intended, but your kindness has sustained me. Amongst the blessings of Providence still in store for us, I do most sin- cerely hope that we may be able to cultivate still further the acquaintance which, under such favorable auspices, we have now been able to make with you. — The honorable gentleman sat down amidst the most enthusiastic acclamations. " Mr. S. Payne briefly proposed, as the next toast, ' Mrs. Van- derbilt and the Ladies,' which was drank with all the honors. " Band — 'Here 's a health to all good lasses.' "Duet, Mr. and Miss Ransford — 'Tell me, gentle stranger.' — Parry. " The Mayor here took the opportunity of announcing that Commodore Vanderbilt, with the generosity that marked his career, had placed his magnificent yacht at his disposal on the following day (Tuesday), for an excursion, to which all those present at the banquet would be admitted by tickets, which could be obtained at the town clerk's office between half-past nine and half-past ten on Tuesday morning. The yacht would start at eleven. This announcement was received with much cheering. " Mr. Yanderbilt, jun., ofi"ered his thanks for the reception they 88 MR. falvey's speech. had given to the toast, and set the room in a roar of laughter by expressing a hope that, as the bump of cautiousness had always distinguished his father, they would allow the son to exhibit it also, by saying nothing more, especially as this was his maiden speech. He proposed the health of ' The Ladies of England : Noble specimens of God's handiwork.' The toast having been duly honored, " Mr. Deacon (the town clerk) acknowledged the compliment, and said that the ladies of England were delighted with that opportunity of greeting the ladies of America. " The Mayor said the next toast was not a political one, and therefore he hoped it would be drank by all. He had received a telegraphic despatch from Sir Alexander Cockburn, regretting his inability to be present. He proposed ' The Members for the Borough.' Drank with much applause. " Mr. Falvey said it was his pleasing duty to propose for their acceptance the next toast ; and, in doing so, he would take that opportunity of remarking that, from the able speech they had heard that day from Mr. Clark, and from others that had been delivered during the visit of the St. Lawrence to Southampton, it was very evident that the people of America, amid their other excellent qualities, had not neglected the cultivation of the art of oratory. (Cheers.) They had satisfactorily demonstrated that it was a popular error to suppose that men who could discourse most eloquently were not men of action ; because, both in the Congress of the United States, and even on ordinary festive occasions, the practical go-ahead character of our American brothers by no means catised the divine art that enabled Demos- thenes to hurl defiance at King Philip, or Cicero to denounce the crimes of Verres, to be neglected. (Hear, hear.) It was said, of old, that the wise men came from the east ; but, however that might be, they could affirm with truth in our own day that the practical and enterprising men came from the west; and, although they in Southampton were not so far north as to mak< MR. FALVEY'S speech. W the large and rapid fortunes that some persons did in that part of the country, they were sufficiently south to have their hearts partake in some measure of the character of their genial climate, and leap, as it were, with friendly and fraternal greetings to welcome their guests from the other side of the Atlantic. (Cheers.) The toast which he had to propose made a special reference to Washington and Franklin, — two of the great founders of the mighty republic of the west ; and it would not be out of place to mention, on that interesting occasion, when they were honored by the presence of so many ladies, that it was to a fond mother's teachings the illustrious warrior and statesman of America was indebted for that ardent love of truth and those lessons of pat- riotism that, throughout the whole of his useful life, formed the leading characteristics of his mind. (Cheers.) As the mariner of old, before the discovery of the compass, looked anxiously up to the north star for safety and for hope in steering his way through the ocean, so George Washington, amid painful and difficult trials, in contending for a time with factious intrigues, and even conspiring generals, looked only to the honor, the glory, and the independence of his native land, as the one great object of his existence. With such an example to guide them, in addition to their own industry and intelligence, and with the old spirit of the Anglo-Saxon race, the future of America would be even greater than its past ; and he said this not in the way of paying a cold and formal compliment to Commodore Yanderbilt and his family, but because the genius and power of his great country was felt and acknowledged in every part of the globe. (Cheers.) He begged to propose, with all his heart, the toast that had been placed in his hands, and to apply to the two nations of the one common origin the words of an American authoress : * Then pray we for our country, that England long may be The holy and the happy, and the gloriously free. Who blesseth her is blessed — then peace be in her walls. And joy in all her palaces, her cottages, and halls.' §d MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. Mr. Faivey concluded by proposing -^ * The Sons of America : May they ever be found worthy of their illustrious predecessors, "Washington and Franklin ; and may the genius and virtue of their many distinguished citizens continue to guide the onward progress of that great and flourishing people.' " Scotch Ballad, by Miss Ransford, — * Of a' the airts the win' can blaw,' — which was rapturously applauded, and a repetition called for and accepted. " Major Labau (another of Commodore Yanderbilt's sons-in- law), in a very eloquent address, responded to the toast. " Mr. Mayor, Ladies and Gentlemen : There are times when such is the intensity of the human feelings that the heart throbs, the bosom heaves, the nerves are relaxed, and the tongue almost refuses to perform its office. Such a time is the present, and such are my feelings. Standing for the first time on England's soil, and partaking of her numerous bounties, emotions strange and new agitate my soul. " As you, sir, have observed, — and I thank you for the thought, — there departed from your hospitable port, some two hundred years ago, a frail bark freighted with Pilgrim Fathers. Like Noah's weary dove, she went forth, and pursued her way o'er the trackless ocean. By the providence of God, a resting- place was found in the western world. I need not now depict the sufferings and trials of those fathers ; nor need I tell of their landing in a wilderness, the dangers they incurred, the perils they encountered. All is as familiar as your household history ; and in recounting these things I should only tell you that which you yourselves do know. Suffice it to say, that a colony was founded ; infant as it was, it grew apace. As years rolled on it waxed stronger and stronger, until it reached the proportions of a man, and now stands forth the ' Giant of the West.' " That giant, your progeny, now sends us, his children, upon a visit to our grandmother, glorious Old England ! Ay, glo* 91 rious Old England ! next to mine own land T love her sea-girt isle. I love and venerate her flag, which has ever floated high above the din of battle, and under which a Wellington and a Nelson have fought and conquered. I love to wander through the rich fields of her intellect, and cull from thence the gems of a Cowper, a Dryden, a Shakspeare, and a Milton. I love to wander 'mid the stars of heaven, and read their names and characters by the aid of a Newton and a Herschel. (Cheers.) " But why, let me ask, are we here ? Why are our national banners entwined together for the decoration of this hall ? Here is a result ; what, then, is the cause ? Mankind are too apt to take things as they are. They know results, without caring for causes. AVe are content to look upon and admire the running stream, without caring to go back and ascertain by what hidden mystery the bubbling water is sent up from the bosom of the earth. Thought is our only medium of knowledge, whatever its sphere or its degree. All begins and ends with thought. Why, then, are we here ? Has etiquette dictated this banquet ? Has it originated in fashion, which makes the heart cold and calcu- lating, causing men to live not for what they are, but for what they seem to be ? No, sir. The banquet is dictated by other causes, by higher feelings, and nobler motives. Are we not the same people ? Do we not speak the same mother tongue, bow obedience to the same principles of law, and kneel in worship before the altar of the same great God ? Sympathy draws us to each other ; unity of interest binds us together ; and one common cause leads us to travel side by side the rugged paths of life. Oar countries are both engaged in the advancement of civilization and science. Both labor for the amelioration of the condition of man ; for the freedom of the serf; for the freedom of the ignorant. Both strive to rend asunder the chains upon the conscience, the intellect, the pursuits, and the persons of men. Both raise up the fallen, encourage the weak and totter- ing, and extend powerful protection to those unfortunates whom 8=^ 92 MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. the vultures of despotism would cover and devour. Ay, here, as in America, may the political offender find an asylum and refuge, upon a soil from which the despots of Europed are not, cannot tear him ! (Great applause.) " Like assimilates with like. England and America are engaged in generous rivalry, each glorying in the success of the other. Ocean steam-navigation brings us nearer to your shores, and is fast tending to make the Atlantic to us a Pacific Ocean. (Cheers.) *' Well may we mingle around the festive board in the sincer- ity of friendship and brotherly love. These ' merrie meetings ' make us better acquainted with each other. Here, divested of care, the toils and troubles of life, we shine forth the natural, not the artificial man. Indulging in these thoughts, I have almost forgotten the purpose for which I arose. As an humble citizen of America, I respond to the sentiment, ' The Sons of America : May they emulate the example of their illustrious Washington and Franklin.' " Such a sentiment, coming from English hearts, pronounced by the lips of British freemen, and receiving the enthusiastic reception which Englishmen can give to that which is heartfelt and sincere, comes with great force. We thank you for your generous wish. And, though we cannot boast of possessing in their perfectness the godlike virtues of a Washington, or the plain, straight-forward simplicity and integrity of a Franklin, yet do we all unite in preserving that halo of glory which their names and deeds have thrown around our country. Through them have we assumed our high place in the political region, and, like the milky-way, whiten along our allotted portion of the liemisphere. It shall be our duty first to preserve inviolate that union which the blood of our sires has cemented together. We will protect it from the grasp of a foreign foe, as well as protect it from the suicidal hands of domestic fanaticism. We strive to maintain national faith and honor, pure and intact. In this, at least, shall we live worthy of a Washington. We strive to pro- MR. LABAU'S SPEECH. 0d mote art and science, and drive forever from our fair land igno- rance and .su[>Grritition. In this eh;'.ll ^ve live Ti'orthv of him who, Promethean-like, drew down to earth the tires of heaven, and made the forked lightning subservient to his genius. " Having done this, we extend to England the right hand of fellowship, and promise to stand with her in all good and great works in the defence of liberty, and in the maintenance of the religion of our fathers. It does not require the vision of a seer to perceive that the time will come when England and America must form a close alliance. The mariner sees in the cloud no larger than his hand danger and tempest. Such clouds are now seen in the political horizon. As men having at heart the good of our country and the cause of human kind, it behooves us to watch and guard. There is yet to be fought the great battle of nations; whether it be as against the onward crushing march of despotism on the one hand, or the wild, roaming and ungov- ernable passions of men let loose for the destruction of their kind on the other. How, when,. or where it shall come, no man knoweth ; and yet each and all of us feel, in the solemn stillness which pervades the earth, that the elements are gathering for fearful strife. Heaven's breezes bear upon their wings the groans of Europe's down-trodden millions. Autocrat diplomacy, which has for its object the plunder of the weak, is weaving around the gov- ernments of Europe a net-work intricate and dangerous. It is the modern Delilah, through whose instrumentality the institutions of liberty are to be shorn of their strength, and delivered over into the hands of the Philistines. In that hour of strife, and the night of horror which precedes it, let England and America be found together standing firm as adamant. Let England, sitting proudly upon the bosom of the waters, receive upon her white cliffs the wild waves of popular commotion, to hurl them back into the angry flood from whence they sprang. Ay, let our banners be entwined together, and defended by the dauntless 94 ALDERMAN ANDREWS' SPEECH. hearts of Englislimen and Americans, whose battle-cry shall be, ' For God, the religion of our fathers, liberty and freedom.' " Gentlemen, I have already trespassed too long upon your patience. Allow me, however, ere I close, to thank you in be- half of my respected father-in-law, and of our party, for your kindness and hospitality. We have been the recipients of your kindness, and we are sensible that we owe it not to any peculiar merit of our own, but to the fact that we are American citizens. As such, and as strangers, we came among you, and you send us hence your firm, fast friends. Upon this shoal of time have we met, and in the fulfilment of our destiny must again separate. Soon a mighty ocean shall roll between us. But distance shall not eflace from our thoughts the recollection of your kindness, nor destroy the emotion of love and respect we shall entertain for you. In after years we shall think of this hour, and shall regard it as an oasis in the desert of life's pilgrimage, around which memory shall love to lie lingering, * Like Adam near lost Paradise.' " In conclusion I give you this sentiment : " The Lion of England and the Eagle of America : May they hunt the foe together ; and that which the keen sight and fierce talons of the one shall hunt out and take hold of, shall be utterly destroyed by the mighty strength of the other.' (Cheers.) " Mr. Alderman Andrews, in proposing the next toast, said that during the last few years there had been so many manifestations of the union and good feeling subsisting between the people of England and America — -between New York and Southampton — that they seemed to be, indeed, one people and one family. (Hear, hear.) The St. Lawrence visited them as a war frigate, and they welcomed Captain Paulding and his officers as members of one common family. Time rolled on, and the St, Lawrence visited their port again, when the American people sent over in her a larg« freight to the Great Industrial Exhibition of 1851, and the CAPTAIN ELDRIDGE'S SPEECH. 95 same hospitable reception was awarded to Captain Sands and his staflf of officers. And now they had another opportunity, in the visit, on a trip of pleasure, of the splendid steam yacht North Star^ the property of a noble-minded man, who had brought with him his interesting family. (Applause.) The qualities of this noble vessel had been spoken of by the whole of the press, and the conduct of the worthy commodore, his family, Captain Eldridge, and the officers, was deserving of all praise. Never had they experienced more courtesy and generosity than from all on board this fine yacht. He had to propose ' Success to the North Star, her commander, officers, and crew.' — The toast was drank, with loud and long-continued cheering. « Song, Mr. Hansford, — ' Old Simon the Cellarer.' " Capt. Eldridge said he was much obliged to them for the honor they had done to the toast, especially for the way in which it had been received. It went down as though it was good. (Laughter and cheers.) It was always gratifying to a man, and especially on such an occasion, to have his health drank so unani- mously, with such kind feeling. He was glad to say that he felt no embarrassment — he felt quite at home. (Hear, hear.) The reception they had experienced was a source of gratitude to himself, and his officers and crew, most of whom, he was proud to say, were the sons of gentlemen. (Hear, and cheers.) This was the first time he had visited Southampton; and he was much pleased with the port, the entrance of the docks, and the excel- lent accommodation affi)rded (loud cheers), — at the courtesy they had experienced, and the police and all other regulations appertaining to the docks. (Hear.) The visit of the North Star had created some interest, and he thought it was justly due. It was a noble and glorious enterprise, and he felt proud of the ship and the position he held in her. The commodore had con- ferred an honor upon him in giving him the command, and he thanked him for it. He was proud of him as a man, and also of his sons and daughters, — he loved them all. Every captain 96 REV. J. w. was proud of his own ship, and he had no wish to be particular in this respect. (Laughter and cheers.) He thanked Mr. Andrews for the courtesy, kindness and hospitality, he had received at his house ; and he thanked them all for the honor that had been conferred on the gallant commodore and his party. The North Star was opened to the public last week, and he then hoisted the English flag by the side of the American, and so he hoped the two flags would long continue. (Loud cheers.) England and America, if separated, may get into difficulties, but, united together, they will whip the world. (Loud cheering.) " The Rev. J. "VY. Wyld, in proposing the next toast, said it had been remarked by a speaker, — one of their brethren from America, who had preceded him, — that we were prone to take up with things as they offered themselves to us, without inquir- ing into them, — to wander by the stream, without caring to seek out its source. Such a remark was naturally suggestive of the fact that the significance of an incident or event was materially connected, in our judgment, with the aspect under which it was viewed. Thus was it in reference to the present festivity, and the circumstances which had given rise to it. He could imagine many a listless spectator looking on the North Star yacht, now lying by the quay of our docks, without attaching any meaning to the simple circumstance that she was lying there. He could likewise imagine some one of those good-natured people, to be found in society, whose pleasure seems to consist in calling in question the seasonableness of the pleasures which every one else enjoys (hear, hear), — he could imagine some one of those good- natured people inquiring, ' Why so much ado about a gentleman and his family coming to port in their own vessel ? ' 'Is this a matter to be noticed by demonstrations of joy and public feast- ing ? ' ' What is there in such an incident to originate a banque^j under the auspices of the Mayor and the principal mer- chants and traders of the town ? ' Such inquiries as these he was fd ly prepared to meet. (Hear, hear.) In his humble opinion, 97 the arrival of Commodore Vanderbilt was associated with much that was highly significant, and which gave not only the founda- tion of reason and propriety to their present proceedings, as being a friendly welcome, but also as having a beneficial bearing on the national relationships of two great countries for the future. (Applause.) It was significant of the advanced state of the world at this time, to behold a gentleman freighting a vessel with those who were nearest and dearest to him on earth, and confidently setting out to traverse the greater half of the globe, and pay his respects to the chief civilized nations. (Cheers.) It was significant of the advanced state of science and art ; for, without the knowledge of the aid which there could be sum- moned to afford him, the practicability of his carrying out his purpose within a given time, and thus making a tour of recrea- tion thousands of miles away from home a limited episode in the gigantic activities which employed him in his own country, would never have found a place in his thoughts. It was signifi- cant, also, of the advancement of commerce ; for it was a man whose wealth had been amassed in commerce that was enabled thus, in his own vessel, to transport himself at pleasure to dis- tant shores. (Hear.) He desired, therefore, plainly to assure those who were guests on this occasion, that they who had invited them to this entertainment could give a reason for such invita- tion ; that they knew what they were doing ; that this festiv- ity was not a mere ceremonial of etiquette (hear, hear, and loud cheers), — not the form into which a momentary impulse of courtesy had shaped itself; — but a deliberate expression of sin- cere feeling, — a real English-hearted welcome. (Renewed cheer- ing.) He had seen it stated that their chief guest, Commodore Vanderbilt, was a ' self-made ' man. He could not under- stand, however, in what the peculiar force of this descriptive epithet consisted. It was a description which; in his humble judgment, belonged, as a matter of course, to all men of honor- -pS r.EV. J. w. wyld's speech. able celebrity. Divine Providence did not, at the first hand, so to speak, make men great, or honorable, or useful. This was, in a measure, left to be the work of their own prudence, industry and integrity. There were materials placed within their reach by Providence, out of which they might elaborate to themselves a station and a name amongst their fellow-men ; and, if these were judiciously and opportunely employed by them, they became great. (Hear.) Similar advantages and similar opportunities might be granted to two men of similar abilities ; but the one, neglecting these advantages and opportunities, and being unfaith- ful to his own inward monitions, passed through life unknown, and at length descended to the grave unmissed, unhonored and unsung; whilst the other, duly improving every advantage, wisely using every opportunity, and loyally heeding every dic- tate of an enlightened judgment within him, became a man whom a nation might be proud to call its own, and whom the admira- tion of the world would be ready to honor. (Applause.) In welcoming, then, such a ' self-made ' man amongst them to-day, they were also testifying their homage to the great cause of com- merce, with which his greatness was identified ; and, in doing this, their proceedings might be viewed as further including an unfeigned regard for the cause of civilization in general ; for commerce was the ofispring of peace, and in proportion as peace prevailed commerce was favored, and in proportion as com- merce was favored the mutual intercourse of mankind was pro- moted ; and in proportion as the mutual intercourse of mankind was promoted, good understandings, friendship, and true brother- aood amongst the individuals of our race, were fostered. (Ap- plause.) He had heard of a Scottish farmer, who, in the course of one of his morning rambles, beheld, through the mist that covered the valley along which he was proceeding, a figure approaching him, like that of a giant, brandishing a club where- with to smite down every living creature that might come in his way. Startled at this strange appearance, the farmer for a REV. J. w. wyld's speech. " 99 moment paused ; but, seeing the monster continuing to advance, he felt his native valor instinctively urge him onward to the encounter. As, however, he continued to come nearer to the figure, and the figure came nearer to him, and the mist between them both began to clear away, the farmer beheld the form of the stranger reduced from the proportions of a giant to those of an ordinary man, and his terrible club turned into a moderately- sized walking-stick; and when at the last he actually came up to the said figure, he became apprized of the fact that, so far from its being a giant, or even a stranger, it was his own brother. Thus had it often happened in the history of human society. Men beheld each other at a distance, and through the mists of prejudice and ignorance, as strangers and monsters ; but, as they came nearer to one another, and the mists which had distorted their figures in the eyes of one another cleared away, they found themselves to be brethren to one another. (Loud cheers.) It was only because men were reciprocally unacquainted that misunderstandings and dislikes, hatred and all kinds of erroneous estimates, were mutually promoted. Repetitions of such a scene as the present were amongst the best modes of dispelling foolish and false feelings betwean man and man, and truly contributing to insure the peace of the world, and consequently the interests of commerce. He believed, indeed, that there might arise occa- sions when war was a righteous duty. (Hear, hear.) He spoke this guardedly, and consistently, in his judgment, with his being a minister of peace. He held that there might be times when it was incumbent on every good citizen, every true lover of his country, to buckle on the weapons of fight at the bidding of the chief magistrate, and hold himself in readiness to be disposed of as being set for the defence of his fatherland. (Hear, hear.) Yet he would observe that such a view as this regarded war as a horrid necessity only, on the supposition that every other method for vindicating right and justice had been adopted. But, alas ! how generally had wars been fomented by the ambition and 9 wo REV. J. w. avyld's speech. avarice of princes and rulers. Wars, as they had appeared on the page of history, had been the arguments of madmen, or the reckless staking of the welfare of thousands to serve the folly of one or a few. It was not the interest of the people of one country to quarrel with those of another, whatever might be the designing aims of their rulers. (Loud cheers.) Nor would they ever quarrel, if left to follow out the development of the com- mercial spirit. It was this spirit, he believed, which had, in times past, invariably been the reverse of blessedness to every community. He could not resist the impression that many of those who, in ancient times, were most renowned, were men of com- merce, and not men of war. Abraham and the other patriarchs, it was well known, were large sheep-owners. And, for his own part, he doubted not that, if we could get at the right explana- tion of many traditions that have come down to us from the first ages of the world, your traders, your men of business, would be found holding the chief and most important positions. What should hinder us from getting at the most satisfactory explana- tion of the story of Jason and his ' golden fleece,' by assuming that this Jason was one of the ' go-ahead ' men of his time, and, having freighted his vessel with a cargo of what might have been the Manchester goods of that era, he returned home with a sheep's skin full of gold as the result of the sales he had eflfected ? It was just such meetings as the present that tended to make the commercial spirit between England and America the bond of peace. The influence of such a meeting could not be calculated. It would not be limited to the personal feeling of those who had honored them as their guests that day ; it would have a wider range of extension, and the cordial greeting here given to one of the principal merchant princes of America would become known throughout his country, and, as often as referred to, would be productive of the most desirable and kindly of feelings. The hope had been expressed that the eagle of America and the lion of England would always be found hunting together. Yes, • EEV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. 101 he trusted that they would thus hunt, in company and harmony, for the purpose of removing all meaner birds and beasts of pre;^ from the face of the earth, and for the clearing away of every- thing that was destructive to the world's civilization. The interests of England and America were the same. There was a family tie between John Bull and his son Jonathan, and the peace which was essential to its preservation was bound up in their commercial relationships. This, then, was the sentiment of the toast he was intrusted to propose — ' England and America : May peace and commerce long unite them.' The reverend gentleman was loudly cheered on resuming his seat. " The Rev. Dr. Choulcs, in rising to acknowledge the toast, was much applauded. He said : " I suppose that I have been called upon to respond to this toast on account of my relation to England and the United States. I am a native of England, but have been a resident in the American Union for thirty years. I love the land of my birth, and I glory in the country of my choice. No man lives who longs more than I do to see these great and glorious lands united in the bands of cordial, brotherly attachment, and I am glad to know that all good men in both of them participate in this desire ; and, if it were not for the denaturalized efforts of a few corrupt leaders of the press, and a handful of partisan dem- agogues, the feeling would be almost universal in Great Britain and America. Our happy country has much to enlist the warm affections of her citizens. Sir, America has a history of which we may be proud. Her founders were not children suckled by a she-wolf in the woods, — they were no fugitives from a ruined Troy ; but they were a rare race of men, reared up for a rare purpose. They sought what England did not then afford ; and they found the object of their pilgrimage, ' A faith's pure shrine, Freedom to worship Grod.' 102 REV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. '^ " Now, every nation on earth is turning to America the look of imploring pity ; long, long may she be the lighthouse of the world, — the evangelist of the nations ! (Hear, and cheers.) As Boon as our citizens land in England, they feel at home, thor- oughly at home ! We love to call England ' the old country,' * mother country,' and ' land of our fcithers.' What sort of a land should we now possess if we had a Spanish origin, a French descent ? Let the distracted states of South and Cen- tral America furnish the solution. (Hear, hear.) Americans claim an equal interest, as Mr. Clark has eloquently told you, in your Milton, Bacon, Newton, Burke, and Boyle ; these and Shakspeare are quite as much ours as they are yours. These intellectual treasures belong to us as much as they do to the lords of the British soil. This patrimony is ours ; and our sons have had their patriotism animated by careful study of the acts and sufferings and speeches of your Hampdens, Bussella, Vanes and Sydneys. Land of our fathers, and the home of a civilization such as our world cannot parallel ! far distant be the day when Americans shall cease to feel devotion at the shrine of thy mighty dead, and gather fresh inspiration from their genius, learning and virtues ! (Loud cheers.) " When we land in your venerable town, sir, we, too, have local associations of the tenderest character. We cannot forget that hence sailed the Mayflower and her precious freight. On board that ark was written the first constitution that insured to man the enjoyment of equal laws and full liberty of conscience. Probably many who saw that ship depart regarded it as a matter of small moment ; only the departure of a few weary men and women panting for a land of freedom, where they could worship God free from oppression and persecution. These men had small means, and wore plain habiliments. Thus it is in the providence of Grod, who often connects ultimate grandeur with apparent original insignificance. Newton, you know, ascended to the loftiest heights of science by the acquisition of the alphabet ; the REV. DR. CHOULES' SPEECH. 103 Saviour of the world was once the occupant of a stable ; and the foundations of our holy religion were laid by a few poor fish- ermen. Yes, I think it probable that men, standing on your beautiful shores, gazed and smiled at the Mayflower as she departed from your waters ; but they were looking at men who were to found an empire of freedom, and who, soon after landing in a long-boat from their weather-beaten bark, kindled up a beacon fire which will yet enlighten the world, and carried with them a leaven which has yet to leaven the whole mass of suffer- ing humanity. (Hear, and cheers.) " When we land in Southampton, we cannot forget your illus- trious Watts, whose songs have charmed and taught our child- hood, animated the devotions of our fathers' sanctuaries, and placed notes of triumph in the lips of myriads as they have gone through the valley of the shadow of death. The true interest of Britain and the United States is to cultivate a brotherly regard ; our interests are identical. (Yes, yes.) " If Americans visit England, and Englishmen visit the United States, interchanging civilities and hospitalities, as we are now doing, no premier nor government of either country can ever set these great nations at war, — a game which rulers can- not play at when the people are wise and virtuous. (Applause.) " I beg leave, sir, to propose ' The health of that venerable lady, Mrs. Vanderbilt, the mother of your honored guest.' " This toast was warmly responded to by the company. " Commodore Vanderbilt said he had been accustomed, all his life, to go direct to a point; and he would therefore, • with- out preface, propose 'The Mayor and Corporation of South- ampton.' Drank, with loud cheers. " Glee, by the Eansford family — 'Sportive little trifler,' — Bishop. " The Mayor briefly replied, remarking that the Mayor and Corporation had arduous duties to perform, but such seasons as this amply repaid them for all their troubles and difficulties. 9# 104.- DEPARTURE FOR EXCURSION " Mr. Mayes, in a few eulogistic remarks on that gentleman's character and conduct since his residence in Southampton, pro- posed the health of ' Mr. Croskey, Consul of the United States of America; and prosperity to the Ocean Steam Navigation Company of New York.' The toast was warmly received, and acknowledged, in a few words, by the Mayor, on behalf of Mr. Croskey. "The toasts of ' The Town Clerk ' and 'The Press' were sub- sequently drank and responded to, and the company separated, looking forward with agreeable anticipations to a pleasant excur- sion on the morrow." "EXCURSION EOUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT AND TO SPITHEAD. [Taken from New Hampshire Independent.] " On Tuesday morning, about four hundred persons, consisting of the Mayor and Mayoress, many members of the corporate body, the principal merchants and tradesmen of the town, a goodly party of ladies, &c., availed themselves of the kind ofi'er of Commodore Vanderbilt to take a trip in the North Star ; and, accordingly, about half-past eleven o'clock, the gallant vessel steamed away from the dock-head, an excellent band on board playing the national anthem, and the national colors of England and America proudly floating in the breeze from the mast-heads. Several hundreds of persons had assembled on the docks to wit- ness her departure. The invitation-cards notified a trip to Spit- head, to view the Duke of Wellington, the magnificent new screw three-decker, and the other ships of the squadron lying at Spit- head ; but, after passing Calshot Castle, the party on board were delighted to find that the bow of the North Star was turned to the westward, an 1 that a trip round the Isle of Wight had been resolved on. The weather was fine, and the Solent and the Channel were perfectly calm. The magnitude of the yacht and the smoothness of the sea prevented much motion being felt dur» ROUND THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 105 ing the whole of the voyage. The afternoon being beautifully fine and clear, the lovely and majestic scenery, for which the back of the Wight is so justly celebrated, was much eujoyed by all on board, especially by the American ladies and gentlemen, and a more delightful trip was never made. In passing Vent- nor, flags were run up the several flag-posts on shore, in compli- ment to the North Star, which was returned on board by dipping colors, and firing a succession of salutes. About four o'clock the North Star got to Spithead, and steamed twice through the fleet, thus affording the company an opportunity of seeing the Duke of Wellington, and the other ships of the squadron moored there. The fleet comprises the Duke of Wellington, 131; Ajax, 60; Blenheim, 60; Hogue, 58; Edinburgh, 58; Sidon, 22; and Odin, 16. On nearing the first-named magnificent and stupen- dous ship, the North Star fired a royal salute, the whole com- pany on board cheering, and the band playing ' God save the Queen.' This demonstration was replied to from the Duke of Wellington by cheering, on the part of the crew, who manned the rigging for the purpose, and dipping the ensign. The guns were not, however, returned, — naval etiquette preventing a salute in honor of a private and non-official personage. The sight at Spithead was a very imposing one, and, combined with the inspection of the lovely natural wonders ranging the coast, from the Needles on the west to the Culver Cliffs on the east, rendered this one of the most interesting and pleasant excursions ever made in this part of the world. "After leaving Spithead, the gallant yacht steered for South- ampton; and, during her progress up the Southampton river, the company assembled in the saloon, where they were briefly addressed by the Mayor. His worship acknowledged, on behalf of the people of Southampton, the great compliment that Com- modore Vanderbilt had conferred on them by visiting their port, and the kindness and courtesy of himself and family in throwing open to the public his yacht, — an object worthy of much curi= 106 SPEECHES IN THE CABIN, ETC. ositj ; and, after dwelling on the advantages which an inter- change of civilities amongst individuals belonging to two of the greatest nations of the world must produce, he proposed three cheers for Commodore Yanderbilt and his family. This call was right heartily responded to by the company, whose cheers rung through the ship for several minutes. Major Labau, on behalf of the commodore, thanked the Mayor and inhabitants of South- ampton for the cordiality with which they had been received, reiterating the kindl}'- and fraternal sentiments which character- ized the speeches delivered at the banquet on the preceding day, and which cannot but be productive of good feeling and amity between the nations. The company were subsequently addressed, in obedience to calls made upon them, by the Rev. A. McLaren and F. Cooper, Esq., by which time the yacht had reached the entrance of the Southampton docks, where the excursionists took leave of their American friends, amidst the warmest expressions of affectionate regard and esteem. " During the whole of the day the greatest attention and cour- tesy was shown by the Americans to their numerous guests. The whole of the ship was thrown open to the visitors, and refresh- ments of every kind were served in the most lavish abundance. Although the number of persons on board (including the commo- dore and his family, the crew, &c.) could not have been much under five hundred, yet the great size of the ship, the splendid fittings and roomy arrangements of the cabin and saloons, and the convenient and extensive promenade afforded on the spar deck (nearly three hundred feet long), and other portions of the vessel, caused the party to appear by no means a large one. After dinner, the young folks repaired to the gun-deck, and had a joyous time in waltzing, with excellent music from the band. Among the visitors on this excursion were W. H.Wills, Esq., of Bristol, and the Rev. Mr. Gunn, of Warminster, who came on purpose to visit the yacht. "The North Star goes through the water most beautifully, and TEPARTUllE FOR THE BALTIC. 107 with great speed, the macliinery working with exquisite smooth- ness. The two large sway-beams, working on deck at a great elevation, and communicating the driving-power to the ponderous cranks below, are a novel feature in this country, and give the ship a curious appearance from the distance. " The North Star ran alongside the dock-head about half-past six o'clock, and the band played the national anthems of England and America whilst the company were landing." " DEPARTURE OF THE NORTH STAR. " Immediately the English guests were all landed, the North Star put about, and bade a final adieu to Southampton, starting for the German Ocean. It is understood that she will proceed up the Baltic and the Neva, and from thence Commodore Van derbilt will visit the shores of the Mediterranean. " Commodore Vanderbilt has left behind him agreeable remin- iscences of his kindness and courtesy from the moment of his arrival. It is calculated that at least ten thousand persons have inspected the North Star at Southampton.* The yacht will not again call here, as she is to touch at Havre on her way from the Baltic trip to the Mediterranean." * A large party of visitors was on board at Southampton, who camo from Scotland direct to visit the North Star. CHAPTER VII. VOYAGE — COA.rT OF NORWAY — KRONBORO CASTLE AND ELSINORE — SHIPS IN THE SOUND COPENHAGEN BORNHOLM AND OLAND ISLANDS DR. LINSLY MIRAGE DAGO ISLAND STEAMER NEPTUNE CRONSTADT FORTIFICATIONS DOCKS SHIPPING PUBLIC BUILDINGS CHOLERA PETERHOFF WOODS VAUXHALL HOTEL MARLY AND MONPLAISIR PETER THE GREAT HIS HOUSE FURNITURE COTTAGE OF CATHE- RINE A RIDE THROUGH THE GROUNDS WATER-WORKS, ETC. PETER- HOFF IMPERIAL PALACE IMPERIAL YACHT, AND GRAND DUKE CONSTAN- TINE ADMIRAL GLASSENAPP — MR. MULLER MINIATURE PALACE COSSACKS. June 14. — Immediately after landing our friends at Soutliamp- ton, we steamed oflF, at about eight o'clock p. m., for St. Peters- burg, making use of only two boilers, and consuming only twenty-five tons coal. The intense fog, which sprang up and continued for the next two days, deprived us of much enjoyment, and on the 15th and 16th we were unable to take observations. The 17th was a delightful, balmy day, and the sea continued, as it had been from leaving England, like a sea of glass. On the morning of the 18th we were all on deck at sunrise, enjoying a most charming view of the coast of Sweden and Denmark, as we were sailing through the narrow passes of the Skager Rack and the Cattegat. This is the anniversary of the battle of Water- loo, and controversy runs sharp between the admirers of Wel- lington and the emperor. Alison's history is in great demand, and, of course, is criticized pretty freely. A recent attempt in New York to bolster up every act and opinion of the great man is also quoted as an indication of public opinion. A more unscrupulous vindication was never written in France ; and, in man}'- respects, it beats the emperor's own bulletins. That Napo- ELSINORE — SHIPS IN THE SOUND. 109 leon was a great man, — that he was, in many respects, a bene- factor to France, — no one will deny; but that his restless ambition was a scourge to Europe, is apparent ; and the wisdom of the courts of Europe could devise no safety for themselves short of his overthrow. We were all enchanted with the pros- pect that opened upon us as we made Elsinore, and obtained a sight of Kronborg Castle, which is beautifully situated on the narrowest part of the sound, opposite the Swedish seaport of Helsinborg, about three miles distant. This noble fortress was built by Frederick II. at the close of the sixteenth century, and is regarded as one of the noblest castles of northern Europe. It is built in the Gothic style, and has several lofty towers and turrets. The design of the fortress was made by the great astronomer, Tycho Brahe. It was in this prison that Queen Caroline Matilda was so long confined, on account of her supposed criminal intercourse with Count Struensee. At this place is laid the scene of the great play of Shakspeare ; but it is all the merest fiction, as we have no proof to show that Denmark ever had a Hamlet for its sovereign. Elsinore is a pretty town, with fine environs ; its present population is about ten thousand. It is calculated that about eighteen thousand ships pass through the sound annually, and here it is that the tax is paid on their cargoes. This tax was reduced in 1842, and again in 1846. In 1847 the number of vessels which passed Elsinore was twenty- one thousand five hundred and twenty-six, and in 1850 there were more than seven thousand British ships. When we entered the sound we were presented with a most extraordinary spectacle ; a calm had prevailed for a few days, and a vast collection of ships and vessels of all descriptions had gathered together; and now we found between Elsinore and Copenhagen, at a moderate estimate, I think, not less than one thousand, all under way. At one point Mr. Vanderbilt, Captain Eldridge, and other members of the party, reckoned two hundred and fifty-three sail in sight at once, and all, I think, 110 COPENHAGEN — NIGHT IN THE BALTIC. witMn a circle of two and a half miles. Many of these weie large ships, and several hoisted the stars and stripes. I think the distance from Elsinore to the capital is about twenty -five miles; and our entire passage was one of great beauty. The Swedish shore was very fine, and on the Danish coast we noticed several most enchanting spots. Here and there were old castles, and several fine woods. It was pleasant to observe the churches, all of which looked in good condition. At half-past eleven we stopped our steamer off Copenhagen, and a party landed to obtain supplies of milk, eggs, butter and poultry. Our friends returned from the city after a delay of four or five hours, but they brought a good account of the place, and very excellent supplies. The best-made butter that we saw on our whole voyage was that which came on board at Copenhagen. Here, too, we obtained fine fish from the fishing-boats that were near us and returning home. At quarter past four p. m., we were off for Russia. Sunday, 19th June, was as beautiful a day as we could desire. The Baltic was as smooth as the Hudson, and we were not sensi- ble of any motion excepting the rapid progress of our yacht. And now we were experiencing the novel pleasure of the long days which are known in this season in the high latitudes, and the marvellous stories of which we had read in our youth. It certainly was strange to find the night only lasting for about two and a half hours. This was the case on the night after leaving Copenhagen ; and the most of it I passed on deck, in agreeable chat with Captain Eldridge, whose fund of knowledge, acquired by extensive travel and nautical experience, combined with great shrewdness of observation, always afforded us entertainment. After passing the grounds of Copenhagen, and taking our de- parture from the light-ship, we steered for the light-ship outside Falsterbo light-ship, stationed off the reef of the same name ; and, on rounding this, we steered directly for Bornholm. In the evening we passed Bornholm, and I am quite sure that no one on board the North Star will ever forget the magnificence of the night. MIRAGE — DAGO ISLAND. Ill [t certainly was the most glorious nocturnal season that I ever witnessed, — cloudless, and so light that only one or two stars were visible, and the moon shone in a milder lustre than we had ever before seen. Bornholm is an island belonging to Denmark, about twenty miles in length, and ten or twelve wide. The shores are lofty, and present a bold, rocky appearance, and all around it are dangerous reefs. Ronne is the chief town, on the west side. At the north point of the island is a light-house built on a mountain, called, I think, Steikbergh, and our chart gives it an elevation of two hundred and eighty feet above the surface of the sea. About fifteen miles east of Bornholm is a large group of rocks, called Eartholms; on one of these there is a castle called Christiansoe, and in this place is a small but safe harbor. Our course now lay direct for Oland Island, and we made the South-head light-house ; thence sailed for Gottland Island, and, coasting which, we made Ostergarns Island and light-house, and then sailed for Dago Island. Our good friend, Dr. Linsly, was now a sad sufi"erer. In travelling from Liverpool to London he was attacked with a pain in the neck; it kept increasing, and had now besome a severe old-fashioned carbuncle, of large size. His suiFerings were very painful, and it was in vain that I pre- scribed the lancet, which he acknowledged was the regular and proper thing in such cases provided ; but he squirmed at the fitting remedy, and, doctor-like, refused to take his own medicine. Soon after dinner our attention was directed to nine large ships-of- war ; they appeared with all sail set, and not more than ten or twelve miles off, but as we approached they vanished. After sailing for three hours and making forty iniles, we came upon the Russian fleet, consisting of nine ships-of-the-line, that were taking their usual summer cruise, and then found that we had witnessed a remarkable case of mirage. June 20, at nine a. m., we passed the light on Dago Island, at the entrance to the Gulf of Finland, and before noon were in sight of Nickmans Shoal, the spot where the British steamer, the 10 112 CRONSTADT. Neptune, was lost in May ; her masts and cliimney are still standing. We now passed by off Revel, and had a good view of its towers and shipping, light-houses and innumerable buoy flags. We next steered to pass Kokskar light, and then direct for the north side of Hoogland, making Eothscar light on our passage. We now headed for the Sommors light, and, passing which, we sailed between the Neva tower and the flags and beacons on the Stone ground, directing our course for the Tolbeacon light, from whence about twelve miles carried us to the island upon which Cronstadt is situated. 2lst, Tuesday. — This is the longest day, and the sun did not set till nearly ten o'clock, and then rose again before two, and all the interval was one continued bright twilight, so that we could read the small type of the Courier and Enquirer and Herald on deck with great ease. At half-past twelve a bright halo indi- cates the proximity of the sun to the horizon during his absence. All were on deck to witness the sun rise, and I do not think that we shall soon forget the novelty of twenty-four hours .of day-light in one day. At ten o'clock we stopped opposite the guard-ship. Officers came on board, examined our passports, took a list of our names, objects, &c. We were then permitted to anchor off Cronstadt, and at eleven we were all settled down off this great fortress and naval depot. Here we were again boarded by officials, and after a few moments' explanation they retired, and the captain went on shore and made a representation to the gov- ernor of our objects and the character of the excursion. He was politely received, and orders were at once given for our landing when we pleased. Cronstadt is a strongly-fortified garrison, and is the great safe- guard of the metropolis. The population in the summer, when all is lively in the docks and navy -yard, is about thirty thousand, but in the winter not more than twelve thousand. This is the great depot of the northern fleet of the empire. In the dock appro- priated to the ships-of-war I should think forty might be accommo- FORTIFICATIONS — DOCKS — SHIPPING. 113 dated ; and when we arrived there were twelve ships-of-the-line all undergoing repairs and receiving outfit, while in the river, directly around the North Star, were several noble steamers belonging to the government, and we at once recognized the Kamtschatka, built for the Czar in New York a few years ago. An immense harbor for merchantmen attracted our notice. It will receive, I should think, seven or eight hundred, and certainly not less than five hundred were in it during our visit ; among these were sev- eral of our own country. I noticed the Peterhofi", of Boston, the Sewell, of the same port, and other eastern ships. The fortifica- tions are of vast strength, and it seems as if no ship could pass the rocky islet and its auxiliary forts with safety, if its passage was disputed. The water is quite shallow, and the law is ex- ceedingly severe against placing any obstruction in the access to the Neva. No ballast or waste is allowed to be thrown over- board ofi" the town. We found the town without any particular charm ; but the arsenal, and navy-yard, with its ships, impressed us most favorably. The navy is as fine-looking as could be desired, and no American would feel mortified if he saw such vessels carrying the banner of his country. As we lay at anchor, we were much gratified to watch the incessant transit of steam and tow boats up and down from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt. The scene was one of great interest. I difi"er entirely from the guide-books as to the beauty of the shore on the passage to the capital ; so far from being tame, I regard the prospect off to the right as very fine. From the deck of the North Star I saw dis- tinctly 'the rays of the setting sun play on the dome of the churches and the golden spire of the admiralty, although we were at a distance of about eighteen miles. Our friends visited, in Cronstadt, the Marine Cadet Building, and the Naval Hospital. These are very spacious edifices, and are both conducted admirably. They are under the eye of the emperor, who frequently drops in to make an unexpected visita- tion. The hospital is regarded as a model institution. The 114 ■ PETERHOFF. streets are so wide, and the people in them so few and far between, that we instantly felt that the place looked solitary. It was here that we learned that the cholera was in St. Petersburg, and that not a few cases existed in Cronstadt. And here I may observe, that, for a day before our arrival, and all the next day, there was scarcely a person on board our ship who had not, in some degree, the premonitory symptoms of this awful scourge of the nations. Our friends now divided into parties. Some took a steamer to Oranienbaum, — a little town, near to Peterhoff, — to which place they proceeded by droskys, the ride being one of about five miles. Mr. Vanderbilt chartered a small steamer, and his family went direct to Peterhofif, and he remained on board. We landed at the emperor's wharf, at which we found the royal yacht lying, with her steam up. She was a very splendid boat, of fine model, and as gay as blue paint and gilt ornament could make her. Her bow was very fine, and adorned with a golden eagle and an imperial crown. The sentries were about to dispute our landing at this place, when one of the ofiicers, who had visited the yacht the day before, stepped up, ordered us to land, and politely assisted the ladies, and then gave us direction to the hotel at Peterhoff. Peterhoff is the summer residence of the E-ussian court ; and I do not wonder that each successive emperor makes it his favorite abode. Our walk, for half a mile, lay through the most charming wood ; and the deep shades had been most evidently the care of men who had great taste, and well under- stood wood-craft. How our lost Downing would have rejoiced in this place ! We passed by noble oaks, and wanted to stop and admire them at once, without waiting for a regular survey of the place ; and perhaps it was an inward premonition that we were on what Russians regard as holy ground, for in a short time we found that one or two of these glorious monarchs of the PETERHOFF — RESIDENCE OF PETER THE GREAT. 115 wood were planted by the hands of that wonderful man Peter the Great. On getting out of the wood, we entered a village of great beauty and elegance, and soon found ourselves comfortably ensconced in a hotel known as Vauxhall, and which made quite an appearance. The first thing was to obtain rooms, and this is the most important thing in a Russian tavern. The rooms were most exquisitely neat, — cleanliness itself; the furniture good, but scarce ; beds all single ; and the charge was made for beds rather than rooms. A sofa, fitted up with sheets, paid as well as a bed. After disposing of our entire party, the next thing was to get a lunch ; and this was done very satisfactorily, as we were all hungry. The provisions were excellent, and, as we found everywhere in Russia, entirely in the style of the French cuisine. After our refreshment, we started on a tour of inspection. I have visited most of the great palaces of England and France, and other countries in Europe, but I have seen no locality for a palace that pleases me more than Peterhofi", — at least, for a residence in summer. Its position is good ; it is at the mouth of the Neva, and commands a fine view of Cronstadt, from which it is, perhaps, ten miles distant. Our first sight was the resi- dence of Peter the Great ; it is not far removed from the old palace Marly is beautifully surrounded by trees, and the house is quite small, and not very unlike a Dutch farm-house. Its interior is quite like some old houses that I remember on the North rijer. In this snuggery Peter died. We saw the bed on which he breathed his last ; the bed-clothes are all preserved, as when he occupied the chamber. On the pillow are his caps and night-clothes, and his robe de chambre lying on the coverlet of the bed. Nothing can be more simple than all the furniture. The rooms are small ; and you can fancy that the old people who live in the cottage have just stepped out. In the room adjoining the small chamber are his slippers, boots and sedan-chair, and other articles of personal dress. In a small corner-cupboard are 10^ 116 PETERHOFF — GARDENS OF THE PALACE. his camp equipage, as plain as tin, iron and brass, can be. The walls of the kitchen are covered with blue Dutch tiles. Nothing indicates that royalty ever resided here, but some good Flemish pictures, and a few elegant Japanese cabinets and beautiful stands. His escritoire remains as he last used it. A long, nar- row saloon, which is really a covered gallery, has many portraits; and here the emperor used to walk, and receive his visitors. The dining-room was a small apartment, with a circular oak table, and the panels of fine Japanese work ; the lower wainscoting of old black oak. From a noble terrace, paved with marble, Peter could gaze upon his infant navy, lying olF at Cronstadt. The rocks of the sea-shore come quite up to the balustrades of the terrace, and greatly add to the scenery. The Empress Elizabeth used to retire from the pomp of royalty at this quiet spot, and is said to have cooked her own dinners. We then went to visit the cottage of Catherine, the interior of which is excessively rich ; and its mirrors, and wonderful collection of china and glass, entirely captivated our ladies. In no place have I seen such magnificent specimens of Dresden porcelain as in this gem of a palace ; and the gorgeousness of some of the apartments struck us peculiarly, after the contrast we had witnessed in the humble apartments of the great monarch. We now set ofi" in carriages, to ride round the pleasure-grounds, and see the charming ^llas and gardens connected with the present abode of royalty. The verdure of the sward, and the foliage of the woods, and the gay flowers of the thousand garden beds and borders, transcend all that I have known of beauty in the country-life of any part of the world ; and, when we think that all this enchanting display has sprung up in six weeks, — for no longer ago it was absolute winter, and thick snow covered the face of the earth, — we feel that we are indeed, in a land of wonders, and it is with an appre- ciating understanding of the mystery involved, that we exclaim, of the Great Author of all that is fair and excellent, " Thou re7iewest the face of the earth" PETERHOFF — ORNAMENTS OF PALACE-GARDENS. 117 The gardens are very extensive, — the drives enclose thirty miles ; and fish-ponds, temples, villas, &c., are too numerous to allude to in detail. The bathing-house of the imperial family is a most admirable building ; and from a chaste marble structure you walk do\Yn into a large sheet of water, surrounded by a dense foliage of lui'ty trees. The vast amount of water at com- mand enables the imperial owner to rival, if not surpass, the celebrated water-works at Versailles. Every possible surprise awaits the wanderer through these grounds. You are standing to admire some beautiful tree; the guide has touched a spring, and every branch, and every twig, and every leaf, is turned into crystal ; and a fountain rises from that tree, which is metallic, although the spectator supposed it to be veritably a production of the forest. While passing over exquisite bridges from island to island, and in boats drawn by stationary ropes, we observed the imperial gondolas, which are much used by the royal family. On one of these islets we were pleased with what seemed to be a beautiful temple ; and, ordering the driver to stop, we alighted from the carriages, and soon reached it on a movable platform, propelled by two men drawing on ropes on either side of it. Never was there a more blissful retreat than this peaceful spot. The temple was a lovely miniature villa. Statuary decked the outer niches of the walls. The entrance was through a long passage, roofed with ivy; a high wall was covered with tho same, so trained as to allow medallions and marble entaglios on the wall to appear as within a frame. Here was a fountain, in the centre of a large basin, flowers rare and fragrant, and some most precious groups of statuary, forming a coup d'asil at once fairy -like and enchanting. Opening on the fountain was a fine spacious summer-room, furnished with a rich divan piled up with cushions. In front of it stood a small, low table, supporting a reclining Cleopatra, the poisonous asp upon her arm, and her left hand rested on her heart. Here, too, was a beautiful mosaic table. The. next rcom was peculiarly tasteful, and full 118 VISIT OF GRAND DUKE TO NORTH STAR. of comfort. The table, writing-desk, statuary, all looked as though the most fastidious taste had directed the position of each object. The garden of thii islet was radiant with roses, azaleas, fuchsias, carnations. The palace is a large building, painted yellow, and picked off with white. It has, no very great architectural merits; but the chapel, which stands, at one end, has a gorgeous dome, which reflects every ray of light from its gilt surface. AYe were shown through the palace with every attention, and were much gratified with the regal display of objects of art. The malachite, porce- lain and statuary, were exquisitely beautiful ; and there were several good paintings. In one large apartment there are more than three hundred portraits of the prettiest girls in Pvussia, executed for Catherine II. ; and very pretty some of them are, too, in their national costumes. From the royal residence down to the bank of the Neva is a series of terraces, and one continued series of waterfalls, lakes and fountains. The basins, Neptunes, Tritons and cascades, must be seen, for no written description will do them any justice. Again and again did we drive round this fairy spot ; and we left it never again expecting to see so much that is beautiful in the arrangement of gardens and grounds. When we returned to Yauxhall, to dinner, we found Mr. Vanderbilt, and learned from him that the royal yacht, which we had seen at the wharf with her steam on, had made a trip to the North Star, and brought as a visitor to him the Grand Duke Constantino, the second son of the emperor, and the High Admi- ral of the Russian navy ; and, on his return to Peterhoff, he brought Mr. Vanderbilt in his yacht, and sent round one of the emperor's carriages, with the royal livery, to take Mr. and Mrs. V. round the place. The duke made quite a long visit on board the North Star, inspected every part of the ship with much interest, and requested permission to have some officers of the topographical corps allowed to come on board, to take drafts of the ship, her cabins, engines, &c. This was cheerfully acceded ADMIKAL GLASSENAPP— EVENING PRAYER. 119 to. These gentlemen came, another day, with their portfolios, and made capital views of the machinery, &c. With the duke was a gentleman, named Muller, who is on terms of some inti- macy with him, and from whom we continued to receive very polite and useful attentions while we remained in Russia. After dinner we went to the parade-ground, in front of the palace, as it was expected that the emperor would be present when the band performed their evening music. While promenading I had the pleasure to meet Admiral Glassenapp, who had visited our yacht the day of our arrival, and with whom I had gone through our steamer. He was very polite, gave me every explanation as to the troops, and, pointing to a window, told me that the empe- ror was in^that room, and was so engaged that he would not appear on the ground. He had that day given audience of leave- taking to our minister, Mr. Brown, who was recalled by the new administration. Admiral Glassenapp is a very, intelligent man, about forty or forty-five years of age, and has the command of the Naval Cadets, who are now in three frigates, lying off in the Neva, just opposite the palace. The admiral speaks English tolerably well, and very much reminds me of General Totten, of the United States' Engineers, as I remember him when he resided at Newport. Just as we were talking, the band struck up a very solemn air ; all hats were off instantly, and a death-like silence, for a few moments, pervaded the vast assemblage. It was the evening prayer, and is observed by the military with great solemnity. I have not often observed a more devotional observ- ance than that which I was so happy as to witness on this occa- sion. In the evening we were all much fatigued ; but our friend Mr. Muller insisted that I should ride a mile or two, to see tha new splendid Tea House, which has lately been built for the heir apparent, who has just married. A pleasant ride brought us to this most elegant establishment. The Tea House is a miniature palace. It is a large, splendid mansion, but small for a regal residence. Here everything surpasses, in exquisiteness of furni- 120 TEA HOUSE. ture and spiendor, any palace I have seen in Europe. The rooms are quite of moderate dimensions, but the style of finish is beyond my previouL- ideas of domestic archite