I .;^»tft,=^ ^^ % { YCLOP LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ' ~w^ — i|ait..-A... §ti^n0 ^n........ Shelf ...il.L2.i UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 0[iK}\mt O'CLPpeDi/v. (Fireplace in the Residence of John Howard Payne, the Author of ' Home, Sweet Home.") ^ ^ ' AN© h0Ui,Hf<^£Hl®IN(© The Mercantile Publishing Company, detroit, michigan. 1889. ^\^ <-'^ -y COPYRIGHTED BY FRANK S. BURTON, 1889. TO "T^l^o^e KjoU^eWiVe^ "WHO CONSIDER MARRIED LIFE A FAILURE THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, WITH THE HOPE THAT IT WILL MAKE MARRJED LIFE A SUCCESS. Contents. PAGB. Beverages, 9 Bread making, 18 Breakfast and Tea Cakes, 29 Cake, 54 Clams, . . 162 Crabs, 164 Cookies, Jumbles and Snaps, 86 Coffee, 9 Confectionery, 387 Creams and Custards, 91 Catsup, 101 Canning Fruit, 104 Carving, 204-210-227-256 Dessert, Ill Doughnuts, 89 Eggs and Omelets, . . 148 Fish, Shell Fish, 154-162 Frogs, 166 Fritters, 37 Fresh Fruits, 107 Game, 176 Gems, r . 39 Griddle Cakes, 33 Grocer's Department, 387 Ices and Ice Cream, 183 Icings, 191 Jams, 194 Jellies, 198 Jumbles, ^^ Lobsters, 1"^*^ Marketing, -u-s Meats 210 Muffins, 40 Mush, 41 Mushrooms, 242 Memoranda, 353 Pastry, 136 Puddings, Ill Puffs, 42 Poultry, 248 Pickels, 264 Preserves, 278 Rolls, 44 Rusks, 47 Salads, 286 Sandwiches, 49 Snaps, 8 Soups and Sauces, 293 Tea, 13 Time Table 347 Toast, 51 The Dining rioom, .... 371 Vegetables, 316 Waffles, 52 Weights and Measures 346 Wines, 395 Glossary, 348 w^ (Tcorge Washington's old fire-place at Mt. Vernon, is shown on tlie outside of this volume. PRKKACK. rJE take pleasure in presenting a book to the public with .^ ^j. an arrangement of subjects entirely different from any S^^i other published, and designed especially to save much valuable time to the hoiLsewife. The subjects are so arranged that one has only to turn through the book, and from the headlines find each chapter in alphabeti- cal order, making it easy to turn at once to any subject or recipe desired, without even turning to the table of contents. The object of this book is to give housekeepers the most improved and scientific cookery as developed by the most practi- cal schools of cookery of the present day; keeping in mind economy as far as consistent with well cooked and healthful dishes. Bad cooking is not only a waste of health but of money. This book, no doubt, will save many times its cost to each purchaser. The object being to assist the housekeejjer in a practical way, the authors have not catered to the epicure, hence the highly seasoned and exj)ensive dishes have been omitted. PREFACE. Cook books previously published, have been coniined to recipes only, while the general information which is so essential, has been omitted. We have taken a step forward, in giving at the commencement of each chapter, general directions that will apply to the recipes following. To illustrate, take for instance chapter seven, "Canning Fruit." Before giving any recipes, valuable instruction is given on those essential points, as preparing the cans, the tops, the rubbers, the kind of cans to be used, heating the fruit, and a complete table giving the quantity of sugar required per quart, and the time for boiling any kind of fruit. In the chapters on poultry, game, and marketing, full information is given on selecting meats of all kinds, where the best cuts of meat are to be found, the carving etc. In the mechanical arrangement of this volume, the publishers have made it far excell any other cook book ever published. The type is large and clear, the leaves are broad, and the book is so bound that it will remain open at any point desired, thus saving one's time in frequent opening, as is the case with books of narrow pages. The initial letters are entirely new features, and were designed and copyrighted especially for this book. The artist was instructed to represent each chapter in its initial letter. How well he has done so the reader can judge when looking through the book. So valuable and so cheap a book as this one should be owned and used (not borrowed) by every housekeeper. If this book should be the means of bringing into the household, happiness, peace and contentment; if the husband hereafter sits at the table with a smiling and satisfied countenance, and the wife feels less of care and anxiety, then its mission will have been accomx^lished. '^Get a husband what he likes. And save a thousand household strikes." CHAPTER I. Bcueragcs. UR BREAKFAST is often a faHure for the want of a cup of good coffee. There is almost as much in the making, as in the coffee itself. Cream adds much to the goodness of coffee, while in tea it is harm- ful, and should not be used, as the two form ' a sort of tanniuo It is said that i^eople who drink milk in tea, drink leather in a mild disguise. Truly, nothing is more generally desired or appreciated, nothing harder to find than a uniformily good cup of coffee. Its IDroduction is usually considered an easy matter, but it involves the observance of a considerable number of conditions by a con- siderable number of persons, and a volume might be written about these and still leave much to to be said. We will, however, briefly state the most important requisites. "The wholesale dealer must exercise care and judgment in his selections, as there is almost as much difference in the flavor of coffee as there is of tea ; this is especially true of Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, and other fancy coffees, of which frequently the bright- est and handsomest looking lots are greatly lacking in the flavor and aroma which constitute the chief value of coffee, and which can be ascertained only by testing carefullj^ each invoice purchased. It should be roasted by a professional roaster, as this is a very 9 10 BEVEEAGES. important part of the programme, and requires skill, experience and constant practice. Expert roasters are usually experienced men and command high salaries. A bad coffee roaster is dear at any price, as the coffee may be ruined or its value greatly injured by an error in judgment or an instant's inattention. Owing to these circum- stances, in addition to the fact that in order to do good work it is. necessary to roast a considerable quantity at a time, none of the small hand machines produce uniformly good results, and they are only to be tolerated where distance makes it impossible for the retail merchants to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight pack- ages) frequent supplies of the roasted article. How much it should be roasted is also an important part of the question. For making "black" or " French" coffee it should be roasted higher than usual (the French, also, often add a little chicory), and some sections are accustomed to a higher roast than others, but as a whole the cus- tomary New York standard will best suit the average American palate. 'Retail dealers should buy their roasted coffee of a reliable house that has a reputation to sustain, and that cannot be induced to cut down prices below what they can afford to furnish an article that will do them credit. Do not buy much at a time (unless in air-tight packages), a week or ten day's supply is enough, and if you are situated so you can buy it twice a week, so much the •better. Keep it in a dry place and, if possible, in a tin can which shuts tightly, never in a pine box or bin, for the smell of the wood is quickly absorbed by the coffee. Get your customers in the habit of buying it in the berry, or, if they have no mill at home and want you to grind it for them (every grocer should have a mill), grind it pretty fine, so that when used the strength is readily extracted, but do not sell them much at a time, as it is a necessity to have it freshly ground. " Consumei's should adopt the above suggestions to retail dealers — ^buy of a reliable dealer who will not represent an inferior article as 'Java;' buy in small quantities and buy often; keep it dry in a tightly closed tin can or in a glass or earthen jar. Ha^e a small BEVERAGES. 11. hand coffee mill and grind only when ready to use it, and if, during- rainy weather, the kernels become damp and tough warm them up> in a clean pot or skillet but do not scorch them; this drives off the moisture, restores the flavor and makes it grind better. The grinding is an important feature; if ground too coarse you lose- much of the strength and aroma of the coffee; if too fine it is hard to make it clear, but of the two the latter is the least objectionable; both the strength and the flavor of the coffee, however, is a neces- sity, and if a little of the finely powdered coffee flows out with the liquid extract it is clean and will hurt nobody. It is better, how- ever, to grind it just right, which is that the largest pieces will be no larger than pin heads." We now come to the important part of making coffee. For this there are many receipts and formulas, including a large number of new and so-called improved coffee-pots, but we have never seen any of the new methods which, in the long run, gave as satisfactory results as the following old-fashioned receipt: Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee; break into it one- egg with shell; mix well, adding just enough cold water to thor- oughly wet the grounds; upon this pour one pint boiling water; let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, and then stand three minutes to settle; pour through a fine wire sieve into coffee-pot, which should be first rinsed with hot water; this will make enough for four persons. Coffee should be served as soon as made. At. table, first rinse the cup with hot water, put in the sugar, then fill half full of hot milk, add your coffee, and you have a delicious beverage that will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have an indistinct remembrance of and an intense longing for an ideal cup of coffee. If you have cream so much the better; and in that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup to make up. for the space occupied by milk, as above; or condensed milk will be found a good substitute for cream. General Remarks. — We have thus briefly indicated the points necessary to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee^ 12 BEVKliACJES. wliotlu^r inado from Kio, or Java, and other mild flavored coffees. In tlie ICaslern and Middle Stali-s, Mocha, Java, Maracaiho, Ceylon, ote., are most highly esteemed and oi-iierally used; but at tlu^ wi'st and south more Ilio coffee is consunu'd. Tiie coffee par excellence, liowever, is a mixture of Mocha and Java together, and thus thoroughly blended. Mocha alone is too rough and acri(eis and ri>staurants that desire good coffee, should make in Huiali (luanlities ;uid more frecpuMitly. It is impossible for coffee to be gooil when it is kept simmering for hours after it is made. COKFKK SunSTITUTES. I'rench cooks, who are celebrated for making good coffee, mix three or four diffi'rent kinds, and recommend as a good proportion, to add to on<' pound of dava about, four ounces of JMocha and four ouiu^'s oi' one or two other kinds. It is said that from three parts of Kio, with two parts of Old GovernuuMit Java, a coffee can bo n\ade (piite as good, if not superior, to lliat made of ,I:iv;i alone. ^Vheat cofftH', made of a mixture of eight quarts of wheat to ono pound o\' real coffee, is said to afford a beverage (piite as agreeable as the uuadidterated Rio, besides being inm'h nu)re wholesome. It is probably known to many that a very large per cent, of iV-? ground coffee sold at the stores is common field ])ease, roasted and ground with genuine eolTee. There are hundreds of thousands of bushels t)f peas annually usi>d for that [)urpose. Those who are in the habit of purchasing ground colTee can do better to buy their own pease, burn ami griiul them, and mix to suit themselves. Novel Mopk ok ^I.vkinc. Co ffke. Put two ounces of ground i'oIYih* into a stewpan, wliicli set upon .|hi> lire, stirring tlu^ powder around with a spoon until .juite hot. BEVERAGES. 13 when pour over a pint of ])()iliiit^ water; cover over closely for five minutes, when Btrain it tlirougli a cloth, rinse out the stewpan, pour the coffee, which will be quite clear, back into it, place it on the fire, and when near boiling, serve with hot milk. Tea. Wo find the following eminently Hcnsiblo lines in Household Hints : One of the most surprising things one constantly meets is to find that the people who have the same duties to perform, day after day, or year after year, do not improve in their method or even once blunder into the right way of doing them. Nothing is more easily made than good tea, and yet how seldon), away from home, does one enjoy delicately fragrant tea which Hawthorne calls "an angel's gift" and which Miss Mitford said she could be awake all night drinking, The first thing needed is a clean tea-pot; it is useless to try to nuike good tea in a rusty pot, or one in which the leaves have been allowed to remain all night. The water should bo boiling but the tea itself should never boil. I wish these words could be painted on the wall of every hotel and restaurant kitchen in the United States. After the boiling water has been poured over the tea set the tea-pot on an extra griddle on the back of the stove. All that is good in the tea will be gradually extracted from it; then when brought to the tal)Ie one may well echo De Quin- cey's wish for an " eternal tea-pot," though not inclined to follow his example of drinking it from eight o'clock in the evening until four o'clock in the morning. The most satisfactory steeper I ever used is an old-fashioned brown earthern tea-pot. This may be kept perfectly clean with almost no trouble. Whatever may be said of the hurtfulness of tea, when immoderately used, a cup of the afternoon tea so fre- quently mentioned in novels and essays is an unpurchasablo luxury. Hamerton says in "The Tntelhictual Life:" " If tea is a safe stimu- lant it is certaiidy an agreeable one; there seems to bo no valid, reason why brain workers should recuse themselves this solace." i4 BEVERAGES. Toko Tea. The tea shouKl bo made in the inorninp:, very stroncf, and not 'allowtMl to stoop lonij. Koop in tho ioo-box till tho nioal is roadj and thou put in a small qnantity o{ oraokod ioo. Very fow nndor- stand tho art of makin«:j iood toa, 1 pour tho soalding hot toa on a goMot of ioo lumpod in, and as tho ioo n\olts tho toa is woak, insipid, aiul a libol on its name. Iced coffoo is very nice made in the same -way. Too mnoh ice is dotrimontal to health and often causes gastric fever; so beware of it when in a heated state, or do not xiriuk of it in large quantities. A Goop Summer Drtxiv. Two pounds Catawba grapes, throe tablospoonfuls loaf sugar, one oup of cold water. Squeeze the grapes hard in a coaree cloth, when you have picked them from tho stems. AVring out every •drop of juice; add tho sugar, and when it is dissolved, the water, t^iirrouud with ioo until very cold; put a lump of ice into a pitcher, pour out tho mixture upon it, and drink at once. Yon can add more sugar if you like, or if the grapes are not quite ripe. COTTAGK BkER. Take a peek of good wheat bran and put it into ton gallons of vat or with three handfuls of good hops, and boil tho whole together \intil tho bran and hops sink to the bottom. Then strain it through a hair sieve or a thin oloth into a cooler, and when it is ftbout lukewarm add two quarts of molasses. As soon as the molasses is melted, pour tho whole into a ton-gallon oivsk, with two tablospoonfuls of yeast. When the fermentation has subsided, bung up the cask, aud in four days it will bo fit to use. Gts'GEK Beek. Poil six ounces of bruised ginger in three quarts of water, fol half an hour; then add five pounds of loaf sugar, a gill of lemon juice, quarter pound of honey, and seventeen quarts more of -vrater. BEVERAGES. 15 and strain it through a cloth. When it is cold put in the whole of an egg, and two drachms of essence of lemon. After standing three or four day.s, it may be bottled. Spruce Beee. Take four ounces of hops, boil half an hour in one gallon of water; strain it; add sixteen gallons of warm water, two gallons of molaKses, eight ounces of essence of spruce dissolved in one quart of water; put it in a clean cask, shake it well together, add half pint of yeast, let it stand and work one week; if warm weather, less time will do. When drawn off, add one teaspoonf ul of molasses to each bottle. Iced Buttermilk. There is no healthier drink than buttermilk, but it must be the creamy, rich buttermilk to be good. It should stand on the ice to cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice in it is an improve- ment. Claret Cup. Put into a bowl three bottles of soda water, and one bottle of clarefe. Pare a lemon very thin and grate a nutmeg; add to these, is a jug, one pound of loaf sugar, and pour over them one pint of boiling water; when cold, strain and mix with the wine and soda water; a little lemon juice may be added. Fruit Cup. Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lemons; squeeze the juice over it in an earthern bowl, and let it stand over night if possible. Pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, and let it lay over night in half a pound of powdered sugar. Crush one quart of berries, and let them lay over night in half a pound of powdered sugar. If all these ingredient cannot be prepared the day before they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, because the juices of the fruit need to be incorporated with the Bugar at least twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all 16 BEVERAGES. the ingredients have been properly prepared, as above, strain off the juice, carefully pressing all of it out of the fruit; mix it with two pounds of powdered sugar and three quarts of ice water, and stir it until all the sugar is dissolved. Then strain it again through a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve, and put it on the ice or in a very cool place until it is wanted for use. Cream of Tartar Drink. Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, the grated rind of a lemon, half a cup of loaf sugar, and one pint of boiling water. This is a good summer drink for invalids, and is cleansing to the blood. Jelly Drinks. A little jelly or fruit syrup dissolved in a goblet of water with a little sugar is a refreshing drink. Lime juice squeezed into lemon- ade gives it a tart but pleasing flavor. A little orange juice is also an improvement in nearly all summer drinks. Simon Pure Lemonade. Take thin-skinned lemons; roll them on the table until very soft; slice very thin with a sharp knife into a large pitcher, averaging one lemon to a person, thus allowing them two glasses apiece. Put in the pitcher with the sliced lemon a cup of white sugar to five lemons (or more if you want it sweeter) and pound all well together with a potato masher; put in a lump of ice; let it stand a few minutes and fill the pitcher with ice water. This makes lemonade that is lemonade, and the peel in the pitcher is delicious. Jelly Lemonade. Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons and steep it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil a pound and a half of loaf sugar in three pints of water, skimming it until it is clear. Pour these two mixtures together. Add to them the juioe of six oranges and twelve lemons, mix and strain through a jelly- bag until clear; keep cool until wanted for use. If the beverage ia BEVEKAGES. 17 to be kept several days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and corked tightly. If for a small party, half of the quantity will be sufficient. Ginger Lemonade. Take a half cup of vinegar, one cup of sugar, two teaspoonf uls ginger; stir well together, put in a quart pitcher and fill with ice water. If one wants it sweeter or sourer than these quantities will make it, more of the needed ingredients may be put in. It is a cooling drink and almost as good as lemonade, some preferring it. Berry Sherbet. Crush one pound of berries, add them to one quart of water, one lemon sliced, and one teaspoonful of orange flavor, if you have it. Let these ingredients stand in an earthen bowl for three hours; then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one pound of powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on the ice until ready to serve. Excellent Mead. Three pounds brown sugar, one pint of molasses, one-fourth pound tartaric acid; mix, pour over them two quarts boiling water, stir till dissolved. When cold, add half ounce essence sassafras and bottle. When you wish to drink it, put three tablespoonfuls of it in a tumbler, fill half full with ice water, add a little more than one-fourth teaspoonful soda. An excellent summer beverage. CHAPTER II. KLESS pains is taken in bread-making, it is a failure. Bread is one of the most important subjects in the entire range of domestic economy. Poor meat, jDoor vegetables, poor pastry, can be endured, but poor bread and butter, never. The art of making good bread should be mastered by every housekeeper. It de- pends on good flour, good yeast, strength to knead it well, and careful baking. The flour should be old and dry. To test good flour, squeeze it between the thumb and finger, it should then show the print of the skin. Good, strong, fresh yeast is Indispensable, if you wish light bread. Too small a proportion of yeast, or a poor thin yeast, or insuffi- cient time allowed for the dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy. If either the sponge or the dough be neglected when it has reached the proper point for kneading, sour bread will probably be the consequence. The goodness will also be endangered by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of it hot, instead of maintaining the gentle and equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation. Heavy bread will also be the result of making the dough very hard, and letting it become quite cold. A certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it partly made, or allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most common causes of failure are, using yeast which is not fresh, or which has been frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it. 18 BREAD. ly After the dough is mixed, leaving it soft as can be kneaded readily, let it set several hours in a warm place where it will have a steady, even, and not too warm temperature. Too much heat makes the bread sour; too little heat stops the rising and makes the bread heavy. When put into the oven the dough should be elastic as India rubber. If the bare arm can be held in the oven a half minute only, it is about right. The oven door should not be opened after the bread is put in until the dough is set or has become firm, as the cool air admitted will have an unfavorable effect on it. The dough should rise and the bread begin to brown after about £fteen minutes, but only slightly. Bake from fifty to sixty minutes, and have it brown, not black or whitey brown, but brown all over when well baked. Allien the bread is baked, remove the loaves immediately from the pans, and while hot, wrap in several thicknesses of bread- cloth. When cold, put them in a stone jar, removing the cloth, as that absorbs the moisture and gives the bread an unjileasant taste and odor. Keep the jar well covered, and carefully cleansed from crumbs and stale pieces. Scald and dry it thoroughly twice a week. In mixing, the following plan is a good one: Take the required amount of water, and put in only two-thirds the amount of flour to be used, and after beating to a stiff batter, the remain- der can be gradually stirred in. If scalding water be used to mix the flour, it must be allowed to cool before adding the yeast. Potato Yeast. Boil a good handful of hops in a quart of water and pour it}' over two teacups of grated potatoes, while boiling hot, stir mix- ture until it just comes to a boil ; add one-quarter teacup of salt, and one-half teacup of sugar, and let stand until it is cool ; then add the usual quantity of good yeast to start it with; when raised put it into a jar, cover closely and set in a clean place; use one teacup for about four loaves of bread. 20 BREAD MAKING. A Good Reliable Yeast. Steep slowly, in a porcelain or bright tin kettle, one large hand- ful of hops, tied in a cloth, boil six large potatoes, sliced thin, in two quarts of water; when done very soft, mash till smooth and creamy. Have ready one pint of flour, wet and rubbed to a smooth paste; pour into this the potato water, boiling hot, stirring- smoothly; let it boil a few minutes, stirring all the time; add the hop water and potatoes, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and one cup of white sugar; stir thoroughly, and set away to cool. When milk warm, stir in one cup of yeast; let it rise in a warm* place twelve hours; put it into an air-tight vessel, previously well scalded, and set in the cellar. This will keep from four to six weeks. Always make new yeast before the old is gone, in order to have some to start with. Be very particular with every new batch of yeast, to have the vessel in which it is kept well cleaned, and scalded with hot saleratus water. Much depends upon keeping this sweet and clean. Another Good Yeast. Boil two potatoes with a good handful of hops, tied in a bag; mash the potatoes when done, in the yeast dish, and add two tea- cupfuls of flour, and scald with the potato water; when cool, add a yeast cake soaked in warm water. Dry hop yeast can always be found at grocery stores. 1 Good Home-made Bread. The superiority of good home-made bread has long been acknowl- edged, yet how few know how to make a really good article of bread, therefore so many housekeepers depend on the baker, which is at least very expensive, to say nothing of the injury the constant use of baker's bread causes to the health of delicate persons and children, as all baker's bread contains alum, which causes the loaves to increase in weight, as it makes the flour absorb more water. Therefore a pound loaf of baker's bread will contain less nourish- ment than a loaf of home-made bread of equal weight. Economy, BREAD MAKING. 21 therefore, should make every housekeeper her own bread maker, as baker's bread dries and becomes stale much quicker than home- made. To make first-rate bread, the sponge should be set over night in E warm place and raised and kneaded three times; the first time from fifteen to twenty minutes — the more the better. If this rule is followed the bread will present an even surface when sliced off, and not the loose, crumbly appearance which is so often seen in bread. Take three quarts of good flour, sift and warm; make a ftavity in the center, add a large teaspoonful of salt; take one pint of new milk, or water boiling hot, pour into this and stir quickly; cool off with one quart of cold milk or water; add one cup of yeast; mix well together; then cover well and set in a moderately warm place (if in cold weather) ; this will be ready to knead up before break- fast, if set over night. Slashing the dough with a sharp knife adds to its lightness and texture. When well kneaded the first time cover tightly, watch closely, and as soon as light knead as before, but be very careful not to work in much flour; only keep enough on the board to prevent sticking, as all the flour that is added after the first kneading only makes the bread hard and dry. As soon as it is light the second time divide into loaves and reserve a portion for biscuit so that the bread will not be cut till cold. Mold smoothly, put into tins, let rise fifteen or twenty minutes in a warm place; bake half an hour in moderately hot oven. When done, set on hearth, cover with double thick cloth five minutes, turn out on same cloth; let stand until cool; put in stone jar and keep covered. Always keep a cloth folded in the bottom of the jar to take up the dampness which naturally collects. Yeast Bread. To three quarts water add one teacupful of yeast, stir into enough sifted flour to make a stiff batter; do this in the evening and set in a warm place. In the morning mix stiff; it will soon 22 BREAD MAKING. rise, then mold out into the tins. No certain time can be given for the time of rising, as that depends on the temperature. Potato Bread. Pare and boil six good-sized potatoes, drain off the water, mash fine and pour over them about three pints of cold water and run through a colander; add flour until this is a thin batter, then put in a coffee cup of yeast from the jug; let stand imtil it rises, then stir into it flour as much as you can with a spoon and let it rise again; work in enough more flour to make stiff enough for bread, and then let rise the third time; when light this time, work intff loaves and let rise. All the flour must be sifted. Anothee. Boil four potatoes to the loaf; mash when done and add two tea- cupfuls of flour and scald with the potato water; when cool add the yeast and let stand till bed time, then sponge and knead in the morning; make quite stiff and knead fifteen or twenty minutes; let rise again and mold into loaves. Milk Sponge Bread. Put a pint of boiling water into a pitcher with a teaspoonful of sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and the same of soda; let it stand till you can bear your finger in it, then add flour to make a thick batter; beat it hard for two minutes. Now place the pitcher in a kettle of hot water — not hot enough to scald the mixture; keep the water at the same temperature till the emptyings are light. If set early in the moi-ning and carefully watched they will be ready by eleven o'clock to make a sponge the same as for other bread, with a quart of very warm milk. Let this sponge get very light, then make into loaves and set to rise again, taking care that they do not get too light this time before putting into the oven, or the bread will be dry and tasteless. The emptyings pitcher and bread pan or tray must be perfectly clean and sweet. Scald them out Vrith saleratus or lime water. BREAD MAKING. 23 Salt Rising Bread. In the evening scald two tablespoonf uls of corn meal, a pinch of salt and one of sugar, with sweet milk, and set in a warm place till morning; then scald a teaspoonful of sugar, one of salt, half as much soda, with a pint of boiling water, add cold water till luke- warm, then put in the mush made the night before, and thicken to a batter with flour; put in a close vessel in a kettle of warm water (not too hot); when light, mix stiff, adding a little shortening; mold into loaves. It will soon rise, and will not take as long to bake as yeast bread. Salt Rising Bread, No. 2. In the morning take a quart dish and scald it out, then put in a pint of warm water; put in a teaspoonful of salt and a little pinch of soda, two or three tablespoonfuls of corn meal, and flour enough to make a thick batter. Stir well, and set the dish in a kettle of warm water, and keep at the same temperature (just so you can bear your hand in it). If water rises on the top, stir in briskly one or two tablespoonfuls of flour, and put back into the kettle. If the flour is good the emptyings will be light within three or four hours; then take flour enough in a bread pan to make three or four loaves of bread, make a hole in the centei', put in the emptyings, and fill the same dish with warm water; add a little salt, stir it in with a spoon, mix a thick sponge and cover it with some of the flour, ^nd set in a warm place to rise. AVhen light, mold it into loaves and set to rise again (it does not require as much kneading as yeast bread). Bake from a half to three-fourths of an hour. Railroad emptyings are made in the same way, of middlings instead of flour. Corn Bread. One pint sweet milk, one pint sour milk, one pint flour, two pints meal, one teaspoonful syrup, one teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful •oda. Steam three hours. 21 BRExVD MAKING. CoRX Bread, No. 2. Two eggs well beaten, one cup sugar, half cup butter, one cup sweet milk, half cup sour milk, half cup wheat flour, one and a half cups corn meal, two teaspoonfuls of any good baking powder. Corn Bread, No. 3. One pint buttermilk, two eggs, one pint corn meal, two table- spoonfuls melted butter, a little salt, and one teaspoonful soda. • Corn Bread, No. 4. One pint com meal, one pint flour, one pint buttei-milk, one tea- cupful molasses, one teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful salt. Bake just two hours. Grandmother's Indian Bread. Three cups sweet milk, three cups corn meal, one cup wheat flour, one half cup molasses, one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoon- ful salt. Put into a buttered bake-dish, and set in a steamer and steam three hours. Quick Graham Bread. One and a half pints sour milk, two-thirds cup cooking molasses, a half teaspoonful salt, two even teaspoonfuls of saleratus dissolved in a little hot water, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in evenly with a spoon. Put into a well-greased pan, and bake imme- diately. It will require from an hour and a half to two hours to bake. Baking Powder Graham Bread. One and one-half pints Graham flour, one-half pint flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix with a pint and a half of milk, or equal parta of milk and water. Sift together Graham, flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; add the milk, or milk and water, mix rapidly into a soft dough, put into a greased tin, bake in rather hot oven for forty minutes. Protect the loaf with paper the first fifteen minutesi BREAD MAKING. 25 Brown Bread of Graham Flour. Take one cup of milk; add hot water to warm; thicken with sifted flour, sufficient to make a sponge; stand over nio-ht in a warm place; in the morning add half a cup of milk, with a cup of hot Avater, one cup molasses, one cup butter, one teaspoonf ul salt ; mix in Graham flour till thick, and smooth with a spoon; pour into bread pans half full; let stand in a warm place until the pans are nearly full; bake an hour in a moderately hot oven. Keep a steady fire. Graham Bread. To a scant quart of warm water add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, a good half cup of brown sugar; stir in a pint of the sponge made of flour for potato bread; add as much Graham flour as can be stirred in; put into baking pans and let rise until light; bake in a moderate oven, and when done wrap in a damp towel until cool. Graham Bread, No. 2. Take one and two-thirds cups of water or milk and a small piece of butter or lard; mix quite thick with Graham flour or Arlington wheat meal, which is better; add half a cup of good yeast and set to rise over night. In the morning dissolve one-half teaspoonf ul soda in a little water and add one-half cup of molasses; stir this into the bread, mix quite soft and put in bakmg tin to rise. Bake thoroughly. A nice rye and wheat loaf may be made in the same way, using one and one-half cups sifted rye and the rest wheat flour. If you wish a light colored loaf use only one cup of rye and sweeten with sugar. Brown Bread. Take two quarts of corn meal ; scald with one quart of boiling milk or water; when cool add one quart of Graham flour, one large spoonful salt, one cup brown sugar or best molasses, one cup home- made yeast, one cup flour. Mix with warm water as stiff as can easily be stirred ; put in deep basins; steam two hours and bake 26 BREAD MAKING. one. Before baking baste with a few spoonfuls of sweet cream or milk; this makes a soft, tender crust. Biscuit is made from the same dough as the bread, rolled out and spread with a small quantity of lard, which must be very fresh and sweet. Double the dough together, roll and spread again three times; then cut in small biscuits; place on buttered tins; let stand half an hour; bake fifteen minutes until a very light brown. Cover with cloth a few minutes and slip off on the same until ready for use. All bread, biscuit, loaf cake or doughnuts made from yeast should rise after being mixed before being baked; if put into the oven or fried directly they are never light, as the dough has no chance to recover its elasticity. Bkown Bkead, No. 2. One pint of rye meal sifted, one jDound of coarse yellow Indian meal sifted, one quart of sour milk, salt, half cup of molasses or less, one heaping teaspoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little hot water. Steam three hours and-a-half in a tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water, Boston Brown Bread. Flour one-half pint, one pint corn meal, one-half pint ryi* flour, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful brown sugar two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half pint water; sift flour, corn meal, rye flour, sugar, salt and baking powder together thoroughly; peel, wash, and well boil tAvo mealy potatoes, rub them through the sieve, diluting with water. When this is quite cold use it to mix the flour, etc., into a batter like cake; pour it into a well-greased mold, having a cover (a tin pail will do), place it in a kettle or sauce pan half full of boiling water, when the loaf may steam or simmer one hour; then take off the cover and bake in the oven a half hour. Rye Bread. Make a sponge as for wheat bread, and let it rise over night; then add two-thirds cup molasses, one teaspoonful salt, one quart BREAD MAKING. 27 milic and water — equal parts — and mix with rye flour, not as stiff as wheat bread, and bake. Rye and Indian Bread. Scald two quarts Indian meal by pouring over it just boiling water enough to wet it, one quart rye meal or flour, one-half tea- cupful molasses, two teaspoonfuls salt, one of soda, one cup of yeast; make as thick as can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with wai*m water, and let rise over night; put in a bake tin, let stand a half hour, and bake from four to six hours. Rye Bread with Baking Powder. One pint rye flour, one-half pint corn meal, one-half pint flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls. baking powder, one tablespoonful lard, nearly one pint milk. Sift together rye flour, corn meal, flour, sugar, salt and powder, rub in the lard cold, add the milk and mix into a smooth batter, as for cake; pour into a well greased tin, and bake in a moderate ovea three-quarters of an hour; protect with a paper the first quarter. HoY^LETON Bread. Five cups Indian meal, seven cups wheat flour, two cups ry& meal, four cups buttermilk, two cups sweet milk, one-half cup molasses, two teaspoonfuls salt, two teaspoonfuls soda. Put it in a three quart pail that has a cover; let it stand near the fire thirty minutes with the cover off, to rise, then put on cover, and bake or steam four hours. Norwegian Bread, for Dyspeptics. One pint barley meal, one-half pint Graham, one-half pint flour, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one pint milk. Sift together barley meal, Graham, flour, salt and powder. Mix into a firm batter Avith the milk, pour into a greased tin, and bake in a moderate oven forty minutes; cover with a greased paper- the first twenty minutes. *28 BREAD 3IAKINa Oat Meal Bread. One-half pint oat meal, one and-a-half pints flour, half teaspoonful salt, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-fourths pint milk; boil the oat meal in one and-a-half pints salted water for one hour. Then dilute it with the milk. Set aside to get perfectly cold. Sift together flour, salt, powder, and when the oat meal preparation is cold place it in a bread bowl; add to it the flour, etc.; mix smoothly- together, pour from the bowl into the greased tin, and bake in a moderate oven three-fourths of an hour; protect the loaf Avith paper the first twenty minutes. Rice Bread. Boil one cupful of rice in a pint of water; when tender, add one* half pint milk; when cold, add one and-a-half pints flour sifted, with a teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls baking powder; mix together smootniy, pour into greased tin, and bake forty minutes. CHAPTER III. Srcakfast aub ®ca €akc5. EALLY the best biscuit is the "beaten bis- cuit," as they are known in the south. They are really the most delightful and wholesome of all biscuit. The best of flour should always be used ; butter and milk i[i) are better than lard and water, though ^^ these may be used when butter and milk ^^^ are wanting. To one quart of flour add one tablespoon of lard or butter, and one-half teaspoon of fine salt. Mix these well together, using sweet milk or cold water, and mix until it is as stiff a dough as can be handled, then beat and beat until the dough pops and blisters and becomes soft and pliable. This beating can be done on a stone or marble slab, with a roll- ing-i)in, wooden mallet, or a hammer used for this purj^ose only. Koll out half an inch thick, cut and prick with a fork, and bake in a moderately hot oven to a nice delicate brown, and you have the perfection of biscuits. These are especially nice for travellers, as they will keep for a week or longer and be very good. The entire secret lies in the thorough beating. As in beating cake never stir ingredients into the batter, but beat them in, by beating down from the bottom and wp and over again. This laps the air into the dough and iDroducing air-cells, causes the dough to puff and swell when it comes in contact with. the heat of the ovem 29 ^0 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Baking Powder Biscuit. To begin with, liave a hot oven; have the flour sifted, and roll «dough as soft as it can be handled. Then more baking pow' der is needed than is usually given. For each teacupful of flour use a teaspoonful of powder; butter the size of a hen's egg is suffi- cient for a quart of flour; after rubbing powder and butter into the flour, mix soft with cold water or milk, stirring with a spoon; roll lightly and bake at once. Cream of Tartar Biscuit. One quart flour, a tablespoonf ul of butter, and a tablespoonful of lard, a half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda, two tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar. Sift the flour and cream of tartar together, rub the butter and lai-d very thoroughly through it; dis- solve the soda in a pint of milk or water (if water, use more short* -ening) ; mix all together. Roll out, addiug as little flour as possi- ble; cut with a biscuit cutter, and bako immediately in a quick oven. English Biscurr. One and a-half pints of flour, one coft:ee-cup full corn starch, three tablespoonfuls sugar, a large pinch of salt, two large teaspoonfuls baking powder, three tablespoonfuk lard, one egg, one-half pint milk, one-half cup currants, one tablespoonful coriander seed (if desired). Sift together flour, corn starch, sugar, salt, and baking powder; rub in the lard cold; add. the eggs beaten, milk, currants well cleaned; mix into a smooth dough soft enough to handle, flour the board, turn out the dough, roll it out to half an inch thickness, cut out with a round cutter, lay them on a greased baking tin, and bake in a rather hot oven twenty minutes; rub over with a little Ijutter on a clean piece of linen when taken from the oven. GrahaM Biscuits. Take one quart water or milk, butter the size of an egg, three tablespoonfuls sugar, half cup yeast, and a little salt; take enough white flour to mix a batter with the water; add the other ingi-edi- BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 31 ents, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon; set it away until morning; then grease a pan, flour hands, take a lump of dough the size of a hen's egg, roll lightly between the palms; let them rise twenty minutes, and bake in a rather hot oven. Cold Biscuits. Three pints flour, two tablespoonf uls sugar, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, four tablespoonfuls lard, two tablespoonfui^ caraway seeds, two eggs, one i)int milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder, rub in lard cold, add the seeds, beaten eggs, and milk; mix into a smooth, firm dough, flour the board, turn out the dough, give it a few quick kneadings, and roll out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut into large bis- cuits, prick with a fork, lay on a greased tin. Bake in hot oven fifteen minutes; when cold, store for use. BUNNS. Break an egg into a cup, and fill the cup up with sweet milk; mix with it a half cup yeast, half cuj) butter, one cup sugar, enough flour to make a soft dough; flavor with nutmeg; let rise till very light, then mold into biscuits with a few currants; let rise the second time and bake, and when nearly done glaze with a little molasses and milk. BUNNS. One cup butter, one cup sugar, half cup yeast, half pint milk, make stiff with flour, and mold into biscuits; when light, bake. BUNNS. One cup yeast, one egg, one tablespoonf ul molasses, flour to make a batter; let it rise, then add one pint milk, one pint sugar dissolved in the milk, half pint butter, two eggs; stir in flour stiff enough to make the buns, and let them rise in the pans before baking. Cinnamon Cake. Take yeast bread dough when light, knead and roll out three- fourths of an inch thick; })ut thin sli(res of butter on the top, sprinkle with sugar, and then with cinnamon: let rise, and bake. 32 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Graham Cakes. To one quart Graliam flour add one teaspoonful of salt, five tablespoonfuls molasses, three tablespoonfuls yeast, or a yeast cake dissolved in warm water. Stir as thick as pound cake; let stand over night; when ready to bake, add a well beaten egg, a table- spoonful lard and a teaspoonful of soda. Bake in cups half an hour. Rye Drop Cakes. One egg, two cups rye flour, two cups flour, half a cup sugar, a teaspoonful salt, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda — or three teaspoonfuls baking powder, — a tablespoonf ul melted butter, and one of lard, oiie and a half cups milk; drop from a spoon and bake half an hour. Corn Cakes. One pint sour milk, two cups Indian meal, one cup flour, one eggy two tablespoonfuls molasses, one teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful soda; mix thoroughly and bake twenty -five minutes in shallow pans. Johnny Cake. One quart corn meal, one quart milk, two eggs, two tablespoon- fuls shortening, half cup sugar, teaspoonful salt, three teaspoonfuls baking poAvder — or substitute one quart sour milk and a large tea- spoonful soda. Newport Breakfast Cakes. Three eggs, three spoonfuls sugar, one and-a-half pints milk, half cup butter, three teaspoonfuls baking powder. Stir stiff with, flour and bake in loaves, like cakes. Potato Cakes. Peal enough good sized potatoes for a meal for the family, grate on a coarse grater, and stir in from three to five eggs, salt and mix Stiff enough to mold into cakes, and fry in hot lard or drippings. GPJDDLE CAKES. 3.'i GRIDDLE CAKES. Stale Bread Griddle Cakes. Soak one pint bread crumbs in warm water, when soft drain oft the wate/ and add one pint sour milk with a teaspoonful soda stirred in, half teaspoonful salt, a beaten egg, and thicken with flour to make a batter. Corn Meal Griddle Cakes. One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or buttermilk, one egg, one teaspoonful soda, one of salt. Bake on a griddle. Rice Griddle Cakes. One and one-half pints boiled rice, the same of flour, one-half teacupful sour milk, one teacupful sweet milk, one teaspoonful soda, Bait, three eggs, and butter the size of a walnut. Flour Griddle Cakes. Make a thick batter with one quart of sour milk and flour. Let it stand over night and in the morning add two well-beaten eggs, palt, and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful warm water. Bake immediately. Green Corn Griddle Cakes. Six ears grated corn, two eggs, one pint milk, one pint flour, one tablespoonful butter, a little salt. Bake on a griddle. Hominy Griddle Cakes. To one pint warm boiled hominy add a pint of milk, or milk and water, and flour enough to make a thin batter; beat up two, or three eggs and stir them into the batter with a little salt. Fry as other griddle cakes. Crumb Corn Cakes. Soak a quart of bread crumbs in a quart of sour milk over night; in the morning rub through a colander and add four well-beaten eggs, a heaping teaspoonful soda dissolved in a little warm water, 34 GRIDDLE CAKES. one tablespoonful shortening, and corn meal to mix into a nice batter. It is better to beat yolks and whites of eggs separately, stirring the whites in lightly just before baking. Flannel Cakes. Three eggs, one quart sweet milk, one quart sifted flour, with three teaspoonfuls baking powder, a small spoonful salt; beat the yolks and half of the milk, salt and flour together, then the remainder of the milk, and last, the whites of the eggs, well beaten; a teacup of boiled rice improves them. Buckwheat Cakes. Take, of equal parts of buttermilk and water, one quart, half cup yeast, a little salt; stir into a batter with buckwheat flour, let rise over night; in the morning add half teaspoonful soda dissolved in a little water. Bake on a hot griddle. Geaham Griddle Cakes. One pint Graham flour, half pint corn meal, half pint flour, one heaping teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful salt, one egg, one pint buttermilk, one teaspoonful soda. Squash, Pumpkin and Apple Griddle Cakes. Cold stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colaU' der, half pint; mix with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint Graham flour, half pint corn meal, half tea- spoonful salt, heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Mix smooth and thoroughly into a batter and bake on a hot griddle. Berry Griddle Cakes. Take of huckleberries, blackberries, or raspberries a half pint, one and one-half pints flour, one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful brown sugar, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, two eggs, and one pint milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder; add beaten eggs, milk and berries; mix into a batter; have the griddle hot enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it. In order i to confine the juice of the berries turn quickly in order to form a GRIDDLE CAKES. ^^> crust on the other side; turn once more on each side to complate the baking. Egg Ckacknels. One quart flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, five tablespoonfuls sugar, one teaspoonful baking powder, four tablespoonfuls butter, and five eggs. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder; rub in the butter cold; add the eggs beaten, and mix into a firm, smooth dough. Flour the board, turn out the dough, and give it a few minutes' rapid kneading; cover with a damp towel fifteen minutes; then roll it out to the thickness of one-eighth of an inch. Cut out with biscuit cutter. When all are cut out, have a large pot of boiling, and a large tin pan of cold water. Drop them a few at a time into the boiling water. When they appear at the surface and curl at the edges, take them up with a skimmer, and drop them in the cold water. When all are thus served, lay them on greased baking tins and bake in a fairly hot oven fifteen minutes. Oatmeal Crackers. One pint very fine oatmeal, one-half pint Graham flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful sugar, one-half teaspoonful "baking powder, one-half pint cream. Sift together the oatmeal, Graham, salt, sugar and powder; add the cream and mix into a dough, rather too soft to handle. Let it stand half an hour, by which time it will have absorbed the extra moisture, and handling it will be easy. Flour the board with Graham, roll out to the thickness of one-third inch, prick with a fork, lay on greased bak- ing tin, and bake in a moderate oven ten minutes. They must be watched during baking, as they burn quickly, and when baked handled with care; they break easily. Graham Crackers. "" Sift together one quart Graham flour, one tablespoonful sugar, half teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful baking powder; mix with two tablespoonfuls butter and a good half pint milk, into a smooth dough, and knead well for five minutes; roll it to the thickness of 36 GRIDDLE UAKES. one-quarter inch, cut into crackers round or square. Bak« in rather hot oven ten minutes; when cold store for use. Crumpets. Mix together thoroughly while dry one quart sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, then add two tablespoonf uls melted butter and sweet milk enough to make a thin dough. Bake quickly in muffin rings or patty pans. London Crumpets. Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful sugar, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder; add one beaten egg, a scant pint of milk and cream in equal parts, a little ground cinnamon or a teaspoonful extract; of cinnamon; half fill greased muffin rings, place on a hot, well-greased griddle. Bake on one side only. Serve hot with cottage cheese. Kentucky Corn Dodgers. Place your griddle where it will heat, for this is much better than a bread pan, there being less danger of scorching at the bot- tom. Take an even pint of sifted meal, a heaping tablespoonful of lard, a pinch of salt, and a scant half pint of cold water; mix well and let it stand while you grease your griddle and sprinkle some meal over it. Make the dough into rolls the size and shape of goose eggs, and drop them on the griddle, taking care to flatten as little as possible, for the less bottom crust the better. Place in the oven and bake until brown on the bottom. Then change to the grate, and brown on top, taking from twenty to thirty minutes for the whole process. Eaten while hot with plenty of good butter, they are better than any other bread. The same amount of meal, lard and salt mixed with boiling water, till of the consistency of thick batter, will give you delight- ful hot cakes, to be cooked like any other batter bread. FRITTERS. 37 FRITTERS. Greek Corn Fritters. GrsMte green corn from the cob, and allow an egg and a half for every cupful, with a tablespoonful of milk or cream; beat the eggs well; add the corn by degrees, beating very hard; salt to taste. Put* a tablespoonful of melted butter to every pint of corn; stir in the milk, and thicken with just enough flour to hold them together — say a tablespoonful for every two eggs. You may fry in hot lard, as you would fritters, or cook upon a griddle like batter cakes. Eaten at dinner or breakfast, these always find a cordial welcome. Green Corn Fritters, No. 2. Two cups of grated corn, two eggs, one cup of milk, flour for thin batter, a pinch of soda, salt, one tablespoonful melted butter. Mix and fry as you would griddle cakes. Apple Fritters. Beat three eggs very lightly, then stir in one teaspoonful of salt, tne-half cup of sugar, one pint of milk, two cups of chopped apple fcnd two cups of flour. Flavor with nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry in lard as pancakes. Sift sugar over them and send to the table. Celery Fritters. Boil some thick but tender stalks of celery in salted water; when done dry them on a cloth, cut them in equal lengths about one and a-half inches; fry them in batter to a golden color, sprinkling fine salt well over, and serve. Oyster Fritters. Drain them thoroughly, chop fine, season with pepper and salt. Make a batter of eggs, milk and flour; stir the chopped oysters in this and fry in hot butter; or fry them whole, enveloped in batter, one in each fritter. In this case the batter should be thicker than if they were chopped. 38 FRITTERS. Clam Fritters. Twelve clams, minced fine; one pint milk; three eggs. Add the liquor from the clams to the milk; beat up the eggs and put to this, with salt and pepper, and flour enough for thin batter; lastly, the chopped clams. Fry in hot lard, trying a little first to see if the fat and batter are right. A tablespoonful will make a fritter of moderate size. Or you can dip the whole clams in batter and eook in like manner. Fry quickly, or they are apt to be too greasy. Lobster Fritters. Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water with half a cup salt; boil twenty-five minutes; when cold remove the meat and fat, cut into small slices; put one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful flour, one cup cream, a little celery, salt, thyme, white pepper, and a salt-spoon of parsley, into a stew-pan; let boil two minutes; add yolks of four eggs, and the lobster; mix and set it back to simmer five minutes; pour it out on a well-greased dish and set it away to get firm by cooling; cut into slices, dip into common batter and fry to a light brown in hot lard. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs of parsley, quite dry, fried in the lard fifteen seconds. Rice Fritters. Boil one cup of rice in one pint of milk until soft; add the yolks of three eggs, one tablespoonful sugar, two tablespoonfuls butter, two tablespoonf uls flour; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth; drop in spoonfuls in plenty of hot lard and fry to a light brown color. Serve with cream, wine or lemon sauce. Blackberry Fritters. Mix one cup blackberries with one and a-half cups commoit "batter and drop by tablespoonfuls into hot lard. All berry fritters can be made as directed for the above and served with spiced sauce made as follows: Set on the fire three- fourths pint of water, one cup sugar; boil twenty minutes, remove from the fire and add one teaspoonful each of extract cloves, mace, and ginger. GEMS. 39 GEMS. Graham Gems. One pint milk, one pint Graham flour, salt-spoonful salt; beat well; heat the gem pan hot, butter it and drop the dough into the sockets with a spoon, filling each one-half full. Graham Gems, No. 2. One pint buttermilk, one teaspoonful soda, a little salt, one egg, one-half cup sugar, tablespoonful lard; thicken with Graham flour, and bake in gem tins. Graham Gems, No. 3. One pint milk, one cup flour, one cup Graham flour, one egg, » little salt. Have the irons hot before using. Cold Water Gems. Take cold water, Graham flour, and a little salt, make rather a stiff batter; heat and grease the irons, or tins, and bake twenty minutes. Mixed Gems. One-half pint Graham, half pint corn meal, half pint rye flour, half pint buckwheat flour, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping tea- spoonfuls baking powder, one pint rich milk; mix into a thin batter, then half fill well-greased gem pans. Bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. Corn Gems. One pint corn meal, one pint flour, one teaspoonful salt, two large teaspoonfuls baking powder, one pint milk; mix into a firm batter, two-thirds fill well-greased gem pans and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Oatmeal Gems. Soak one cup oatmeal over night in one cup water; in the morn- ing add one cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, one cup of flour, a little salt, bake in gem irons. If on trial they are a little moist or sticky, add a little more flour. 40 MUFFINS. MUFFINS. To one quart of milk add two well-beaten eggs, a lump of butter half the size of an egg, a little salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter; stir in half a pint of yeast. Let them stand until they are perfectly light and then bake on a griddle in rings made for the purpose. These are merely strips of tin three-fourths of an inch wide, made into rings two and a half or three inches in diameter, and without bottoms, the ring being simply placed on the griddle and the batter being poured in to fill it. Muffins, No. 2. One pint flour, one cup milk, two eggs, two tcaspoonfuls baking powder, butter the size of an egg', beat the yolks of the eggs witb the butter, then add the whites well beaten. Sift baking powder with the flour, and mix all together into a batter. Bake in muffin rings. Muffins, No. 3. One pint new milk, one egg, one tablespoonful sugar, one table- spoonful butter, half teaspoonful salt, one cake yeast (or better, half cup home-made yeast) ; mix with flour until a very stiff batter is formed; leave in a warm place over night and bake in the morn- ing in rings. Rice Flour Muffins. One and one-half cups rice flour, two cups wheat flour, one pint milk, one egg, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, a small piece of butter. Bake as usual. Rice Muffins. One pint sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder and a little salt. Thoroughly mix together; then add one cup cold boiled rice, two eggs, one tablespoonful butter, and enough sweet milk to make a thick batter. Bake immediately. MUSH. 41 Graham Muffins. Two cups sour milk, one teaspoonf ul saleratus, two eggs, a little salt, butter half the size of an egg, three cups Graham flour. Bake in rings. Graham Muffins, No. 2. Two cups Graham flour, one cup sweet milk, one-third cup sugar, one egg, butter the size of an egg, two teaspoonf uls baking powder. Bake in rings twenty or thirty minutes in hot oven. Corn Meal Muffins. One and one-half cups of corn meal, the same of flour, two heap- ing teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half cup sugar, one-half tea- spoonful salt, one tablespoonful butter, two eggs, and milk enough to make a stiff batter. MUSH. Corn Mush. Take boiling water (soft water is preferable), salt to the taste, add meal very slowly so as to prevent any lumps being formed; cook thoroughly. Oatmeal Mush. Put four tablespoonfuls oatmeal into one quart cold water; add one teaspoonful salt, let it cook slowly for from one to two hours, adding hot water when needed; just before serving stir in one teaspoonful butter, or soak the meal over night and add boiling water and cook in the morning. Cracked Wheat Mush. To one quart salted water add three-fourths cup cracked or rolled wheat, and boil two hours; or it may be soaked over night and boil one hour. 42 PUFFS. Cracked Wheat Musn, No. 2. Moisten one and one-half cups cracked wheat with cold water, add one-half teaspoonful salt, place in a muslin bag, leaving half the space for the wheat to swell; put into a small colander and place in a kettle of water and keep boiling from three to four hours. Serve with syrup and butter or cream and sugar. It is nice sliced and fried when cold. Fried Musii for Breakfast, Night before, stir into two quarts of boiling water a little salt and one pound of farina, boil for ten minutes, and pour it into a shallow dish to cool; next morning cut it into slices, and fiy in lard light brown. This is far superior to corn meal mush. Hominy. Take one cup hominy to one quart salted water and soak over night and boil throe-fourths of an hour. Servo with milk and sugar. Slice and fry when cold. PUFFS. Puffs. Two eggs, two cups of milk, two cups of flour, and a little salt. Pour into hot roll pans and bake in a quick oven. Fill the pans about half full. German Puffs. Two cups of sweet milk, two cups of flour, three eggs, and a little salt. Graham Puffs. One egg, one pint sweet milk, one pint Graham flour, and a pinch of salt; beat the eggs thoroughly; add the milk, then the flour gradually; beat the whole mixture briskly with an egg-beater; pour into cast-iron gem pans, well-greased, and hot; bake in very hot oven; this mixture is just suflicient for twelve gems. PUFFS. 43- Oatmeal Puffs. Sift together onc-lialf pint oatmeal, one-half pint Graham, one* half pint flour, one tcaspoonful Bugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, and two teaspoonfuls baking j)ow(k'r; add three beaten eggs and one pint milk; mix into a thin batter; half fill well-greased gem pans and bake in hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. Potato Puffs. To eacli two cupfuls of mashed potatoes take one tablespoonful of melted butter and beat to a cream; put with this two eggs whipped light, and a cupful of milk, salting to taste; beat all well;, pour into greased baking dish and bake quickly to a light brown. Serve in the dish in which it is cooked. Cream Puffs. One-half pint boiling water, one cup of butter, two cups of flour. Let the water and butter boil, then stir in the flour; let it cool; add" five eggs well beaten; beat all well; drop in muflin rings; bake thirty minutes. Boil one j)int of milk; beat together one cup of flour, one cup of sugar, and two eggs; add this to the boiling milk and boil tbree minutes; cut a hole in the top of each cake and fiU^ with cream, putting the piece of crust back. PUFFETS. One quart flour, one pint milk, two eggs beaten light, butter siz^ of an egg, three tablcspoonfuls sugar, three teaspoonfuls baking powder; bake quickly. Proverbs. One cup rich milk, one egg, two cups flour, one teaspoonfui baking powder, a little salt; beat together thoroughly, fill buttered cups half full and bake in a hot oven. Pocket Books. One quart warm water or milk, two eggs, three teasj)oonful3 eugar, one cup yeast, four tablcspoonfuls melted butter, add flour to make a sponge, and set to rise; when it is risen work it over and. 44 ROLLS. set to rise again; when light put in a piece of soda the rfze of a bean; roll out, spread the surface with butter, cut in squares and double over to form a pocket book shape ; put in a pan and let stand till light, then bakeo ROLLS. How TO MAKE Rolls. When mashing potatoes for dinner, put a tablespoonful of it into one pint of the water they were boiled in, and set aside till bed- time; then strain it through a colander, add one pint of milk, one large spoonful nice lard, one large spoonful white sugar, one tea- spoonful salt, one penny-worth of yeast, and flour to make a stiff batter. Leave it in a moderately warm place. In the morning add flour enough to make a soft dough, working it well. Let it rise again, roll out half an inch thick, cut into round cakes, fold together, drawing a buttered knife through as you fold them. Let them rise again for half an hour, or until light; bake in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. In cold weather the milk should be luke-warm; in hot weather the milk should be scalded and cooled. The potatoes must be pared before boiling, and the kettle in which they are boiled must be perfectly clean. Rolls No. 2. Take a piece of bread dough when molded; roll out half an inch thick; spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar; roll up an with a little soda watei', drop the mixture onto the pan by spoon f uIb. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven ; avoid opening the oveu door while baking. When the cakes are cool, open them on one side and fill with the following mixture: One cup sugar, one-half cup flour, two eggs, and one pint milk. Beat the eggs, sugar, and flour together, and stir them into the milk while it is boiling, stir riug constantly until it thickens; when cold, flavor to suit the taste CocoAKUT Cake. Two beaten eggs, one cup sugar, rolled fine, one-third cup butter, one-half cup milk, two cups flour, sifted with two teaspoonf uls baking powder. Bake in layers and put together with frosting 58 CAKE. and a layer of desiccated cocoanut whicli has been previously soaked in milk; frost the top of the cake and sprinkle thickly with the cocoanut. Cocoanut Cake, No. 2. One cup butter, three cups sugar, whites of six eggs, four and one-half cups sifted flour, two and one-half teaspoonfuls baking powder, one grated cocoanut, and one cup milk. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the whites of the eggs, then the milk; mix the baking powder with the flour by sifting. After all are mixed together put in the cocoanut, mixing thoroughly, and bake imme- diately. This cake will keep for some time, retaining its freshness. Chocolate Cake. One-half cup butter, two cups sugar, four eggs, one cup sweel milk, two teaspoonfuls ci-eam of tartar, one teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful vanilla. Bake in layers. Paste for Same. — One-half cake chocolate warmed in the oven ten minutes, one heaping teaspoonful white sugar, one teaspoon- ful cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves, a pinch of ginger, and two teaspoonfuls vanilla. Pour a little water on the sugar, put it on the chocolate, heat on the stove and put in the spice when boiled. Corn Starch Cake. Take whites of three eggs, one cup white sugar, one-third cup butter, one-half cup milk, one cup flour, one cup corn starch, one teaspoonful soda and two of cream of tartar; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Corn Starch Cafe, ISTo. 2. Whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, one cup butter, two cups sugar, one cup sweet milk, one cup corn starch, two cups flour, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda; flavor to suit the taste. CAKE. 59* Coffee Cake. Take two eggs, well beaten, one-half cup butter, one-half cup sugar, one cup molasses, one cup strong cold coffee, one teaspoonf ul cinnamon, one teaspoonful cloves, one teaspoonful allspice, one teaspoonf ul soda stirred into the molasses, one cup of raisins, flour to make of the consistency of pound cake. Chocolate Eclairs. Make a batter as for " Boston Cream Cake," form it with a spoon on the baking pan into long narrow cakes, leaving a space between; when baked and cold make an opening in the side and put in the cream, which must also be cold. Make the cream as follows: Break, dissolve, and mix smoothly one ounce of chocolate with three tablespoonfuls warm water in a bowl; set over a boiling tea-kettle, add gradually a cup of milk and leave it to scald; beat one egg and add to it one-half cup of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls corn starch; mix well and stir into the scalded milk, then put the whole into the bowl over the boiling water, and stir till it is much thicker than boiled custard; add a very little salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla; after filling the cakes with the custard, ^'rost with hot icing with two ounces of chocolate dissolved in it. ^ rost the top only. Charlotte Cachee. One thick loaf of sponge or plain cup cake, two kinds of fruit- jelly, tart and sweet, whites of five eggs, one heaping cup of pow- dered sugar, juice of one lemon. Cut the cake into horizontal slices of uniform width; spread each with jelly — first the tart, then the sweet — and fit into their former places; ice thickly with a frosting made of the whites, sugar, and lemon-juice; set in a sunny window or slow oven, to harden. The former is the better plan. Older Cake. One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, one egg, well-beaten, one large cup of cider, one teaspoonful of soda, flour sufficient to make '60 CAKE. it as thick as pound cake. One cup of raisins can be added if desired. Cake Without Eggs. One cup butter, three cups sugar, one pint sour milk or cream, three cups flour, one pound raisins, one teaspoonful saleratus; spice to taste. Ceeam Puffs. Melt one-half cup of butter in a cup of hot water, and while boiling beat in one cup of flour. Take it from the fire and when •cool stir in three eggs, one at a time, without beating them. Drop the mixture on tins in small spoonfuls and bake in a moderate oven. Custard for the Filling. — One and one-half cups of milk, two «gg8, four tablespoonfuls of flour, sugar to the taste, and flavor with vanilla. Beat up the eggs and sugar and stir in the milk with the flavoring, and when it comes to a boil stir in the flour, previ- ously mixed smooth in a little milk. Cool and fill the puffs by ■opening them a very little. Citron Cake. One cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt Make the cake as above, put in the pan, cut the citron thin and put in the cake endways; push down until the batter covers the citron, and this will prevent the citron from falling to the bottom of the pan. Ceeam Cake. Three eggs, one cup of sugar, one cup of flour, one teaspoonful «f baking powder, one-half cup of sweet cream. Bake like jelly cake. Put one cup of pulverized white sugar into one-half cup of very thick sweet cream, and spread between the cakes; flavor both the cake and cream to suit taste. This is delicious. Chocolate Cake, Ko. 2. One cup white sugar, one-half cup sweet milk, one-half cup melted butter, whites of four eggs beaten stiff, one and ono-half CAKE. (51 cups flour, with three teaepoonfuls of baking powder sifted in. Bake on three tins. Take whites of two eggs and make a frosting as for any other cake; add one teaspoonful vanilla and two-thirds cake of German sweet chocolate grated. Spread between layers but not on the top one. Take white of one egg to ice the top and sides. Do not frost the cake until cool. The same cake recipe may be used for cocoanut. Christmas Cake. Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a dessert-spoonful of salt, rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter and one pound of lard. Put in half a pint of good fresh brewers' yeast, and knead as for common bread. If there is any difficulty about the yeast, baking pow- der may be used, allowing a heaped teaspoonf ul of ordi- nary baking powder for every pound of material. If yeast is used, let the dough rise before adding the other in- Chhjstmas Cake. gredients. Mix in three pounds of currants, one and one-half pounds of moist sugar, a whole nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peel finely minced, a tablespoonful of brandy, and four eggs, well-beaten. Butter the mold and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. Cinnamon Cake. Three-fourths of a cup of butter, a cup of white sugar, one and one-half cups flour, four eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), a tablespoonful of sweet milk, one and one-half teaspoonf uls baking powder, lemon, and a little salt. Rub the baking powder into th»' flour. . t)l> CAKE. Cinnamon Cake. One cup sour cream, one cup sugar, one-half cup melted butter, one egg, one-half teaspoonful soda. Mix as for cookies, roll out, and spread ground cinnamon over the top; then roll up as a roll jelly cake and slice off with a sharp knife and bake. Any good cookie recipe will do. Cup Cake. Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add four beaten eggs, and three cups of flour, into which one and one- half teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted, season with extract of almonds; mix into a smooth batter and bake in well- greased cups or muffin pans. Coooanut Pound Cake. Beat half a pound of butter to a cream; add gradually one pound of powdered sugar, four well-beaten eggs, one pound of flour sifted with two tablespoonfuls baking powder, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon- ful of grated lemon peel, one-fourth pound of prepared cocoanut, and a cup of milk; mix thoroughly, butter the tins, and line them with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of one and one-half inches, and bake in a good oven; when baked spread ioing over them. Return the cake to the oven a moment to dry the ioing. Clove Cake. One pound of brown sugar, one pound of flour, one pound of raisins, one-half pound of butter, one cup of milk, two large tea- spoonfuls of baking powder stirred well into the flour, one table- spoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful cinnamon, one tablespoonful of nutmeg, four eggs; chop the raisins. For less quantity divide proportionately. Delicate Cake. One and one-half cups of granulated sugar, one cup of butter, two-thirds cup of milk, whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth, three even cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder pff CAKE. 63 in the flour and mixed; stir butter and sugar well together, to them add the milk, then put in the flour, and last add the beaten eggs; flavor with lemon. Stir the whole mixture well. Delicious Cake. Two cups of white sugar, one cup of butter, one cup milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful soda, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, three cups of sifted flour. Stir butter and sugar together, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, then the beaten whites; dissolve the soda in the milk, rub the cream of tartar into the flour and add; flavor with extract of bitter almond. Drop Cake. One pound of sugar, three-fourths of a pound of butter, one and one-fourth pounds flour, five eggs. To be dropped by the table- spoonful on buttered pans and baked. DouGii Cake. Two cups light dough, two cups sugar, one cup butter, half cup milk, two eggs, one and a half cups flour, one teaspoonful soda, one cup raisins; flavor with nutmeg and cinnamon. Dover Cake. Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add six eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one cup of milk, one and one-half pints of flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder; season with one teaspoonful each of extract of cinnamon and orange; bake in rather hot oven forty minutes. Dundee Cake. Whip to a cream one and one-half cups of butter and the same amount of sugar; add eight eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one-half cup of cream or milk, one and one- half pints of flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half of a lemon peel cut in thin slices, one cup of washed, picked, and dried currants, one and one-half cups sultana raisins, 64 CAKE. one teaspoonf 111 each of extract nutmeg, cloves, and vanilla; mix into a firm batter, pour into a shallow, square cake pan; chop one cup of almonds coarsely and sprinkle over the top; then bake one hour in a moderate oven. Dried Apple Cake. Two cups of dried apples, chopped fine and soaked in water over night, then cook in one cup of molasses until soft; add one cup each of butter, sugar, and sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves and lemon extract, one nut- meg. A cup of raisins may be added. Bake in a greased cake dish in a moderate oven. Flour for stiff batter. Election Cake. Beat one and one-half cups of butter and two cups of sugar to a "white, light cream; add three eggs, beating a little longer, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, two cups of raisins, stoned, one cup of currants well cleaned, one- half cup chopped citron, one-half of a lemon peel, chopped, one-half cup of almonds, blanched and cut into shreds, one teaspoonful each of extract of vanilla and of bitter almonds, one cup of milk; mix into a consistent batter, put into a paper-lined tin and bake in a moderate, steady oven one and one-half hours. Everyday Fruit Cake. One cup of -butter, two cups of sugar, two cups of sour milk, two cups of raisins, five cups of flour, one teaspoonful saleratus, salt, cinnamon, cloves, citron and wine to suit the taste. Egoless Cake. One and one-half cups of sugar, one cup of sour milk, three levej cups of flour, one-half cup of butter, one teaspoonful of soda, one* half teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of grated nat' ueg, and one cup of chopped raisins. English Christmas Cake. Sift five pounds of flour; mix with it one tablespoonful of sblt. CAKE. 65' one and one-half pounds of butter and half a pint of fresh brewer's yeast, or five teaspoonfuls of baking powder; if yeast is used, allow dough to rise before adding other ingredients; mix in three pounds of washed currants, one and one-half pounds of " A " sugar, one nutmeg grated, one-fourth pound of chopped candied lemon peel, one wine glass of brandy, and four well-beaten eggs; butter the tins and line them with buttered paper; bake in a moderate oven for two hours. The quantity of brandy recommended will serve to keep these cakes fresh for an indefinite time. Fruit Cake from Dough. Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one prnt of dough, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, as much fruit as you wish, spices to suit the taste; use flour enough to make as stiff as common fruit cake; set in a warm place to raise. "When light bake in a moderate oven. Feuit Cake. One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one pound of flour„ eight eggs, two pounds of raisins, one pound of currants, one-fourth pound of citron, one tablespoonful of molasses, one cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, and spices of all kinds. Bake two. hours in a moderate oven. Fruit Cake, No. 2. One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three and a half cups of flour, one cup of molasses, one cup of cream, four eggs, one pound of raisins, citrons and currants according to taste, one teaspoonful of saleratus, spice to taste. Warranted to keep a year. Fruit Jelly Cake. Two cups of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, same of sweet milk, four eggs, three cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder; stir together, then divide into three equal parts. Into one part stir one tablespoonful of molasses, one cup of chopped raisins, one tea- spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Bake, and put together with jelly or frosting. 66 CAKE. Ginger-Beead. One pint of molasses, one glass of sour milk or cream, one table- spoonful of soda, one-half pint of melted lard; put the soda into the milk and molasses and beat to a foam. Make the dough very soft. Soft Ginger-Bread. One cup of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of sour cream, one cup of New Orleans molasses, four cups of sifted flour, one table- spoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda, the grated rind of one lemon, three eggs, well beaten; stir the butter and sugar together, then add eggs, milk and flour. Soft Ginger-Bread, No. 2. One coffeecup each of sugar, molasses, and butter, four cups of flour, one cup of sour milk, two large teaspoonf uls of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, one tea- spoonful of saleratus dissolved in the sour milk; stoned raisins may be added. Bake in sponge-cake tins. Ginger Cup Cake. Mix two cups of powdered sugar with two cups of warmed butter; add three well-beaten eggs, a cup of molasses, four heaping cups of flour, a tablespoonful of fresh-ground ginger, one teaspoon- ful of dissolved saleratus; mix thoroughly and pour into buttered molds or patty pans; bake in a moderate oven. Groom's Cake. Ten eggs beaten separately, one pound each of butter, white sugar, and flour, two pounds of almonds blanched and chopped fine, one pound of seeded raisins, one-half pound of citron shaved fine; beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually, then the well- beaten yolks; stir all till very light, then add the chopped almonds; beat the whites stiff and add gently with the flour; take a little more flour and sprinkle over the raisins and citron, then put in the cake pan, first a layer of cake batter, then a layer of raisins and CAKE. 67 citron, then cake, and so on until all is used, finishing off with a layer of cake. Bake in moderate oven two hours. Geaham Cup Cake. Rub to a light cream tw -thirds cup of butter and one cup of sugar, add two beaten ggs, one-half cup of cream, two cups of Graham flour, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, one tea- epoonfui of extract of lemon; mix into a moderately thin batter; bake m well-greased cups, or muffin pans, in a moderate oven. Hickory-nut Cake. Two cups of white sugar, one-half cnp of butter, three cups of flour, three-fourths cup of sweet milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one teaspoo ful of cream of tartar put into the flour, the whites of eight eggs. Just before baking add two oups of hickory-nut meats. Hickory-nut Drop Cake. Whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth; add one pound of rolled sugar, one up of hickory-nut meats, one teaspoonful of baking powder, with flour to stiffen so as to drop. Drop by spoon- fuls on a buttered tin and bake in a quick oven. Huckleberry Cake. Rub togetker one cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add four beaten eggs, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with two tea- spoonfuls baking powder, .ne up of milk, two cups of huckle- berries, one teaspoonful each ol extract of cinnamon, cloves and allspice; put in a paper-lined bake tin and bake in a quick oven fifty minutes. Honey Cake. Mix together one cup of honey and one cup of sugar; add one- half cup of melted butter, two beaten eggs, one pint flour sifted with two teaspoonf uls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of cara- way seeds. Mix into a smooth batter and bake in a hot oven thirty minutes. 68 CAKE. Imperial Cake. One pound each of sugar and flour, three-fourths pound of butter, Dne pound of almonds blanched and cut fine, one-half pound of citron, one-half pound of raisins, the rind and juice of one lemon, one nutmeg and ten eggs. Ice-Cream Cake. To the whites of five eggs, lightly beaten, add two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, three cups of flour, and three teaspoonfuls of baking powder; bake in thin layers and use as a cream, to spread between, two and a half cups of sugar and one- half cup of water boiled together; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and when the syrup will hair, pour it into the whites and stir as fast as possible; flavor with lemon or vanilla and spread between the layers and over the top. Jelly Cake. Beat to a cream three-fourths cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add five eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one and one-fourth pints of flour sifted with one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one cup of milk; mix to a smooth batter and bake in jelly-cake tins; spread with currant or Other fruit jelly. Jelly Rolls. One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful baking powder. Stir well and spread thin on a long baking tin or dripping pan. Bake quickly, turn out on a cloth, spread with jelly and roll up. Kappee Kuchek. One pound light raised dough, one ounce of sugar and three of butter, one egg; cream the butter and beat well with the sugar and the egg; add the dough and mix thoroughly with the hand; put it in a warm place to rise; when light, pour it in a small dripping pan (when baked it should not be more than two-thirds of an inch thick) CAKE 69 and let it stand ten or fifteen minutes; put in the oven and while baking prepare this icing: Blanch two almonds and shred them; add to the beaten whites of two eggs one cup of sugar; stir in the almonds, and when the cake is baked cover it with the icing and dry in the oven. Th« almonds may be browned a little if liked. Knickeebockee Cake. Beat one-half pound of fresh butter to a cream; add one-half pound of powdered sugar, three-fourths pound of sifted flour, a tablespoonful of orange-flour water, and one of brandy, and four ounces of washed currants; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture until very light. Line some shallow cake tins with but- tered paper, pour in the mixture until they are one-half full, and bake in a quick oven. Lemon Cakb. Five eggs beaten with three cups of sugar and one of butter, one cup of milk, five cups of sifted flour, one lemon rind grated, half a teaspoonful soda dissolved well in the milk, and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar in the flour; after all is well beaten, add the juice of the lemon and bake immediately. Lemon Cake, No. 2. To four well-beaten eggs, add two cups sugar, two tablespoonfuU butter, one-half cup of milk, two cups of flour sifted with two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder; bake in jelly tins and put together with a frosting made of the white of one egg, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, and sugar enough to stiffen. Lemon Jelly Cakb. Beat together two eggs, one cup of sugar, one-third cup of butter, one-half cup milk, two cups flour sifted, with a heaping teaspoonful baking powder; bake in jelly-cake tins. Jellt/ for Same. — Two-thirds cup of water, one cup sugar, the juice and grated rind of one lemon; mix together and let boil; than 70 CAKE. stir in two well-beaten eggs. When cold, spread between the layers of cake; also upon the top, or the top may be frosted. Lady Cake. Rub to a cream two-thirds cup of butter and three cups of sugar; add one cup of milk, one pint flour, one-half teaspoonf ul of baking powder, one teaspoonf ul extract of bitter almond; then add tha whites of eight eggs whipped to a froth; when thoroughly mixed, put into a paper-lined tin and bake in a steady oven forty niinuteeii When cool, ice the bottom and sides with white icing. Lunch Cake. Beat thoroughly two cups of butter and two cups of sugar; ad4 two cups of egg well beaten, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful baking powder, one gill of wnie, one teaspoonf ul each of extract of rose, cinnamon and nutmeg; mix into a smooth batter and bake in a moderate oven one hour; when cold, ice with white icing. Light Cake. Beat six eggs, yolks and whites separately; beat with the yolks one pound white sugar, and three-fourths pound of butter; add one pound of flour sifted with a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one «up sweet milk with one-half teaspoonful of soda, one pound raisins, a little citron, and lemon peel, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth. Bake in a paper-lined cake tin one hour in a moderate «ven. Loaf Cake. Six cups of bread dough, five eggs, three cups of sugar, one cup of butter, two teaspoonfuls of ground cloves and cinnamon mixed, and half of a nutmeg, one and one-half pounds of l*aisms. Bake in a moderate oven. Marbled Cake, Light part: One and one-half cups of white sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sweet milk, one half teaspoonful of soda. CAKE, 71 one tcaspoonful cream of tartar sifted with two and one-half cups flour, whites of four eggs; beat and n)ix thoroughly. Dark part: One; cup of brown sugar, one-half cuj) of butter, one- half cup of sour milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda, two and one- half cups of flour, yolks of four eggs, one-half teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg. With a spoon droj) the two batters alternately into a papered cake-tin. Mountain Cake. One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sweet milk, one-half cup of corn starch, one cup of flour, whites of six eggs, a little vanilla, two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bako in layers. I^^-osting for ^6oue.— Whites of five eggs, twenty tablespooa- fuls sifted sugar, beaten very light, and a little vanilla. Spread between layers and on the outside of the cake. MAnEiRA Cakk. Beat together two and one-half cups of butter and two cups of sugar; add seven well-beaten eggs, one and one-half pints flour sifted with one heaping teaspoonful baking powder; mix with one gill of Madeira wine into a smooth batter and bake in a paper-lined cake-tin in a steady oven about one hour, and ice with transparent icing. Molasses Cake. Beat together one cup of butter and one cup of brown sugar; add one-half cup of molasses, one cup of milk, one egg, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder; mix into a consistent batter and bake about forty minutes. Molasses Cake. Beat together one-half cup of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and one egg; add one-half cup of molasses, one-half cup of Bour milk, one-half teaspoonful of soda, two cups of flour, sifted, epices to suit the taste, and a cup of chopped raisins. Bake in ft moderate oven. 72 CAKE. Maebled Chocolate Cake. One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three cups of flour, four 'Well-beaten eggs, one cup of milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder; take out one cup of this batter and mix with four table- spoonfuls of chocolate dissolved with a little cream; cover the bottom of the pan with the white batter and drop upon it in places a spoonful of the chocolate, forming rings, then another layer of the batter, and so on until all is used. Bake in a moderate oven. MoBETON Farm Cake. Two pounds of butter, softened throughout, but not melted; add two pounds of nice, white, soft sugar, and mix together until creamed; take out one-half and reserve it in a separate bowl until wanted. To the rest add one quart of pretty warm, sweet milk; stir in gradually four pounds of flour, then mix in very thoroughly a teacupful of lively, home-made yeast. Let it stand in a warm place until very light, which will take about four hours; then add the remainder of the butter and sugar, and a little more flour if needed; add two pounds of raisins nicely stoned, a little pulverized mace, and, if at hand, some candied lemon peel; let it rise again, and when well raised mix it well, using the hands, and proportion it off into well-buttered pans; let them stand in a moderately warm place until beginning to rise; put them into a steady oven and bake them fully an hour, or longer if only one or two pans are used. There are no eggs used in this cake — none are needed. It is an excellent cake for economical housekeepers to make in winter, when eggs are scarce and high-priced. If the top and sides are frosted it will keep moist for a long time. Brown paper is mce to wrap oake in before putting it into the cake box. Nut Cake. One cup of butter, two cups of white sugar, four cups of flour, one cup of sweet milk, the whites of eight eggs, three teaspoonf ula of baking powder, and two cups of chopped nut meats. CAKE. 7J Nut Cake, No. 2. Two eggs, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter; beat together and add one-half cup of sweet milk, one and one-half cups of sifted flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one large cup of chopped •walnuts; frost when baked; mark in squares and put half a nut meat on each square. White Nut Cakb. Whites of twelve eggs beaten to a froth, one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three and one-half cups of flour, teaspoonful of yeast powder. After the butter is well mixed add one large cocoanut, grated; one large tumblerful of the kernels of pecans, and one tumblerful of blanched almonds, the almonds to be elightlj mashed in a mortar, Neapolitan Cakb. Black: Take one cup of butter, two cups of brown sugar, on* cup of molasses, one cup of strong coffee, four and a half cups of sifted flour, four eggs, two teaspoonfuls of soda, two of cinnamon, two of cloves, one of mace, one pound of raisins, one of currants, and a quarter of a pound of citron. White: One cup of butter, four cups of white sugar, two cups of sweet milk, two cups corn-starch mixed with four and-a-half "Cups of sifted flour, whites of eight eggs, two tablespoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful of extract of bitter almonds. Bake the cakes in round jelly pans with straight edges; the loaves should be one and a-half inches thick after baking. When the cake is cold, each black loaf should be spread with a thick coat- ing of lemon and sugar, made as follows: The white of one egg thoroughly beaten, the grated rind of two and the juice of three lemons; powdered sugar enough to make a thick frosting; lay a ■white loaf on each black one and frost as you would any other cake. Lady Fingers. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour; add half a pound of sugar; grate in the rind of two lemons, and squeeze in tk« 74 CAKE. juice of one; then add three eggs; make into a roll the size of the middle finger; it will spread in the oven to the size of a thin cakej dip in chocolate icing. Obangb Cake. Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, three cups of flour, yolks of two eggs and whites of five, three tea- spoonfuls baking powder, grated peel and juice of one orange. Bake in four layers. Filling.— W\x\t&s of three eggs, juice of one orange, fifteen table- spoonfuls of sugar. Beat together, spread between the layers and on the outside of cake. Pare and divide in small sections two oranges and put on top of cake. Orange Cake, No. 2. Three eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, one and a-half cups of sugar, two cups of flour, with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted with the flour, one-half cup of rich milk, a very little salt, orange juice, or some extract of lemon. Bake on jelly-cake tins. Jelly for Orange Cake. — Take two good oranges, grate a part of the rind of one, then peel them and grate them all; remove the seeds and add one cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of water, and scald in a tin pail set in a kettle of hot water. Take one table- spoonful of corn starch, mix smooth with a few spoonfuls of cold water and stir into the orange and cook just enougli to cook the corn starch; when nearly or quite cold, beat the whites of two eggs and add powdered sugar for frosting; leave out a little of this for the top of the cake if you like, and stir the rest into the orange, and you will have a jelly that will not run off or soak into the cake. Perfection Cake. Three cups of sugar, three cups of flour, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, one cup of corn starch, the whites of twelve eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Before sifting the flour put in three tea- spoonfuls of baking powder; sift all together. Dissolve the com CAKE. 75 starch in the milk and add it to the butter and sugar well beaten together; then add the flour and whites of the eggs. Never beat in a tin dish. PoBK Cakb. Take one pound fat salt pork free from lean or rind, chop as fine as to be almost like lard, pour upon it one-half pint of boiling water; add two cups of sugar, one cup of molasses, one teaspoonful of soda stirred into the molasses, one pound of raisins, one-fourth pound of citron shaved fine; stir in sifted flour enough to make of the consistency of common cake batter; season with one spoonful each of nutmeg and cloves and two teaspoonf uls cinnamon. Bake in a moderate oven. POETUGUESE CaKE. Beat together one and one-half cups of butter and four cups of sugar, add eight eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one pint flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, three cups of almonds blanched and pounded to a paste with a little water, one cup of seedless raisins, one cup of currants; season with nutmeg; mix into a batter and bake in a well-papered tin in a steady oven for one and one-half hours. Puff Cake. Two cups of sugar, three eggs, one cup 'of butter, one cup of Bweet milk, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful of Boda, and three cups of flour. Bake in a quick oven. Pine-Apple Cake. One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of milk, three cupa of flour, whites of six eggs and yolks of four, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder well mixed through flour; bake in jelly-cake pans; grate a pine-apple; sprinkle with sugar, spread between the layers; pine-apple jam may be substituted; frost the outside; beat two- tablespoonfuls of the pine-apple into the frosting. 76 CAKE. Pound Cake without Soda. One pound of powdered sugar, one-half pound of butter, eight eggs, whites and yolks, beaten separately and well, ten ounces flour, one nutmeg. Bake one hour. CocoANUT Pound Cake. Beat one-half pound of butter to a cream; add gradually one •pound of sugar, one pound of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of salt, one teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, one-fourth pound of prepared cocoanut, four well-beaten eggs, one cup of milk; mix thoroughly; butter the tins and line them with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of one and one-half inches, and bake in a good oven; when baked, take out, gpread icing over them and return to the oven to dry the icing. Pound Cake. One and one-half cups of flour, one cup of butter, one and one- half cups of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of baking powder. Beat butter and flour to a cream; beat four eggs and sugar very light; put all together and add the baking powder. Plum Cake. Beat together two cups of butter, one cup of sugar, two eggs, one cup of molasses, one cup of sweet milk, one teaspoonful each of allspice, cinnamon and mace, one gill brandy, two pounds each of currants and raisins, one-half pound citron, one-half teaspoonful •oda. Flour to thicken. QuiNCY Cakb. One cup of butter, three cups of powdered sugar, four cupi of flour sifted with one and one-half teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one cup of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda, the juice and rind of one fresh lemon, whites of ten eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake one and one-half or two hours in a pan. CAKR 77- Queen Cake. One pound of sugar, one pound of flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, three-fourths of a pound of butter, five eggs, one gill of sweet cream, one teaspoonful of extract of nectarine, one tablespoonful of water, and one grated nutmeg; beat the sugar and butter to a cream, add the eggs beaten very light, then the cream and flour, and lastly the flavoring. Railroad Cake. One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful soda, or one and one-half tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, a little salt; beat all together as for sponge cake, and spread on two square tins to bake. Reception Cake. Beat together two cups of butter and two cups of sugar; add ten beaten eggs, one quart of flour sifted with two teaspoonf uls of baking' powder, two cups of currants, one cup of shaved citron, one-half of an orange peel cut fine, one-half cup of blanched almonds cut fine; season with allspice and cinnamon; put into a paper-lined cake tin and bake in a moderate oven. Rice Cake. Beat together one-half cup of butter, two cups of sugar, and four eggs; add one-half cup of sweet cream; sift together one and one- half cups of rice flour, one and one-half cups of flour, and one heap- ing teaspoonful of baking powder; mix all together and season with lemon extract. Bake in patty pans in a hot oven. RocHESTEE Jelly Cake. Three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, two cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of sweet milk, three cups of flour, one tablespoonful of baking powder. Take one-half of the above mixture and bake in two square pans, then add to the remainder one cup of stoned and chopped raisins, one-fourth 78 CAKE. pound of citron shaved fine, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one nutmeg, one-half teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice, one tablespoouful each of molasses and flour. Bake ii\ like pans and place in alternate layers with raspberry jam or any kind of jelly. The same put together with frosting is called Ribbon Cake. Silver Cakk. Beat to a fi-oth the whites of six eggs; add two cups of sugar, two-thirds of a o\ip of butter; beat well together and add one cup of sweet milk with one teaspoonful of soda, two eups of tiour and one cup corn starch sifted with two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar; flavor with any extract. The same made by substituting the yolks for the whites makes » nice gold cake. Snow Cakk. One cup of sugar, one and one-half oups of flour, one heapin|; teaspoonful of bakiug powder. Sift all together through a siere «nd add the whites of ten eggs beaten stiff. Bake in a quick oven. Swiss Cakk. One-quarter cup of butter, one and a half cups of sugar, two and ©ne-half cups of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two eggs, one tea- •jH>onful of cream of tartar, and one-half teaspoonful of soda. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; add the eggs, well beaten. Mix and flavor with lemon. This makes a good and inexpensive cake. Delicious Sponge Cake. Twelve eggs, one pound of sugar, twelve oimees of flour, a pinch of salt; flavor. Beat the whites to a very stitT froth, the yolks till the bubbles look fine. When the yolks are beaten .enough add the Bugar and beat till sugar is dissolved; then add the whites, and lastly the flour, and bake numediately in brick-shaped tins. This will make two loaves. You will find your cake so much nicer if baked in a paste. Make with flour and water only; roll out on the board same as pie crust, line your greased tins all over inside with CAKE. 79 the paste and pour in the batter. Bake nearly an hour. Do not break off the paste till you want to use it. Your cake will be more moist and keep longer; indeed, the cake will be much better a day or two old. Sponge Cake wirn Hot Water. One cup of sugar and two eggs, well beaten together, one tc»- •poonful of baking powder sifted with one cup of flour; stir well together, then stir in one-third cup of boiling water or milk; bako quickly in a buttered tin. If these directions are followed the cak« will be very nice. Sponge Cake. Beat together the yolks of four eggs and one cup of sugar tea minutes; add to it one cup of flour sifted with one-half teaspoonful baking powder, one teaspoonful extract of orange; then add the whites whipped to a stiff froth, and bake in a well-greased cake mould in a steady oven thirty minutes. White Sponge Cake. Sift together one cup of flour, one-half cup of com starch, one teaspoonful baking powder; add one cup of sugar, one teaspoonful extract of rose, then add the whites of eight eggs whipped to a ■tiff froth; mix thoroughly and bake in a well-buttered cake tin m a quick oven thirty minutes. Sultana Cake. Beat together one and one-half cups of butter and one and one- half cups of sugar; add six eggs, two at a time, beating fir* minutes between each addition, one and one-half pints of flout •ifted with one teaspoonful baking powder, one-lialf cup of thick cream, four cups of Sultana raisins, one-half cup of chopped citron; mix thoroughly and put in a paper-lined cake tin well buttered. Bake in a moderate oven one and onC'fourth hours. When dou«, spread with transparent icing. to CAKE. Spice Cake. Beat together one cup of butter and two cups of sugar; add two beaten eggs, one cup of milk, three cups of flour with two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, one-half cup each of seeded raising and currants; season with nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon. Seed Cake. Beat together one cup of sugar, one-third of a cup of ba'^ter, and two eggs; add one-half cup of milk, and two ciipa fioar sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder; stir ip on3 tablespoonful of coriander seed and season with nutmeg. Bake in a loaf or ii| patty tins. TUNBRIDGE CaKB. Bake a plain sponge cake in a cylinr^ei-mruld; when cold cut it in thin slices, lay the bottom piece on a plate,^ spread over any kind of fruit jelly and two tablespoonfuls of any kind of wine; repeat this until all the cake is used; prepare a meringue paste of the whites of four eggs beaten stif?!, with two cups of sugar; use it to entirely cover the top and sides of the cake; sift sugar plentifully over it and place it in an oven to brown just a fawn color; when ready to serve slide it ofi; the plate into a glass dish and pile round it one pint of whipped cream. Flavor with any extract to suit the taste. Nice for tea or for dessert. Taylok Cake. Seven eggs beaten separately; beat with the yolks two pounds of sugar, one and one-half pounds of butter (less butter will do); then add seven coffeecups of flour sifted with two and one-half tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, one pound of currants, one pound of seeded raisins, three nutmegs, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, one pint of milk, and lastly the beaten whites of the eggs. Weddin-g Cake. First J . ooure the following ingredients: One pound and a half of flour, the same of butter, half a pound of candied lemon, half a CAKE. 81 pound of candied orange, half a i»ounrGER Cookies. One cup sugar, one cup molasses, one cup shortening, two beaten oc^iX^, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of but- termilk, one tablespoonful ginger. Stir with a spoon until stiff enough to mold with the hand; roll and bake in a quick oven. Graham Cookies. Two cups of sugar, one cuj) of sour cream, one-half teaspoonful of soda; mix quickly, roll and bake. These require less heat and more time in bakinir than when white flour is used. 88 COOKIES, .lUMBLES AND SNAPS. Molasses Cookiks. Three cups of New Orleans molasses, one eup of lard, a half cup butter, four teaspoonfuls sotla dissolved in ten tablespoonfuls boil- ing water; one tablespoonful ginger, one teaspoonful cinnamon. SuGAii Cookies. Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one-half cup of milk, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda, a tablespoonful c!M-away seeds. Mix soft and roll. lIiCKORY-NUT Cookies. Take two cups of sugar, two eggs, half a cup of melted butter, six tablespoonfuls of milk, or a little more than a third of a cup, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda and one cup of chopped meats stirred into the dough. Sand Tarts. Rub together two pounds of sugar, two pounds of flour, one and a qun.rter pounds of butter beaten with three eggs; mix smooth and roll out and cut into cakes. Place hickory-nut or almond meats over the top. Wet over with the whole of an egg beaten, and sprinkle with cinnamon and line sugar. Jumbles. Three eggs, one and one-fourth cups sugar, one cup butter, three tablespoonfuls sour milk, one-quarter teaspoonful saleratus, flour to mix hard. After it is kneaded and rolled out, sift sugar over the top. Season if you like. Jumbles, No. 2. One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of milk, five eggs, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a teaspoonful of soda. Ginger Snaps. One cup of sugar, one cup of molasses, one cup of butter, one teaspoonful so<3;i. one teaspoonful ginger, one egg. COOKIES, JUMBLES AND SNAPS. SO Ginger Snaps, No. '2, One cap molasses, one-half cup lard, one teaspoonful soda, salt and ginger to taste; mix hard. Ginger Snaps, No. 3. One coffeecup New Orleans molasses, one cup butter, one cup sugar; ])lace them on the stove, and let it come to a hoil, then take oflF immediately, and add a teaspoonful of soda, and a tablespoon- ful of ginger. Roll thin and bake quickly. Doughnuts. Two beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, four tablespoonfuls melted lard, one cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, a little salt, seasoning to the taste; flour to make a soft dough to roll out; fry in hot lard. Doughnuts Without Eggs. Two quarts of flour, one pint of milk, one heaping cup of sugar, !»nd a piece of butter the size of an egg. Scald the milk, and when ^pid add the sugar, the butter, a half cup of yeast, and a half tea- spoonful of soda. Pour this all into the center of the flour, using enough of flour to make a sponge. Let it rise all night in a warm place. In the moi-ning sprinkle in whatever spice you want; then knead in the rest of the flour; let it rise again until light; knead again and roll them. After they are cut out let them stand five minutes. Fry in boiling lard. Doughnuts, Raised. Make a sponge, using one quart water and one cake yeast; let it rise until very light, then add one cup of lard, two cups of sugar, three large mashed potatoes, two eggs, season with nutmeg; let rise again until very light. Roll and cut, or pull off bits of dough and shape as you like; lay enough to fry at one time on a floured plate and set in the oven to warm; drop in boiling lard and fry longer than cakes made with baking jjowdcr. 90 COOKIES, JU.MBLES AND SNAPS. Cream Doughnuts. Beat one cup each of sour cream and sugar, and two eggs, together; add a level teaspoonful of soda, a little salt, and flour enough to roll. Fried Cakes. Seven tahlespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of melted lard, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of -cream of tartar; flour enough to roll out soft. Roll in pulverized sugar when half cold. Snow Balls, White. One cup of sugar, six tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two eggs, one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda, a very little nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt; mix middling soft and roll out, and cut with a small round cutter. Your tea canister top may be just the right size. Fry ii?. hot lard. Have ready a small bowl with a little fine white sugar in it. As you take them from the lard drop them in the suga'* and roll around quickly until the surface has a very thin coat of sugar all over it, then lay carefully on a plate. Repeat with eacl cake separately, adding a little fresh sugar occasionally. CHAPTER V. FTEX custards are spoiled by being cooked too long. Have a regularly heated slow oven. The lighter the eggs are beaten, the thicker and firmer the custard. Duck's eggs make the richest custards. Almond Ceeam. Take three ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanch them; put them in a pan over the fire, stirring them continually. As soon as they have acquired a fine yellow color, take them off the fire, and when cold pound them into fine pieces; then add a pint of cream or rich milk, nearly boiling, and three or four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one-half package of gelatine which has been dissolved in a little water. Put it upon the ice, and when about to thicken stir it until it is very smooth, then stir in lightly a pint of whipped cream and put it into a. mold. Apple Float. One cup of pulverized sugar, one cup of cream beaten to a stiff froth, five eggs, beaten light, one lemon, four large apples grated, three tablespoonfuls of gelatine dissolved in warm water. This quantity will fill one quart bowl. Bavaroise. One pint of milk; add four tablespoonfuls of ground coffee; cook until well mixed, and strain through a jelly bag; add the beaten 91 '92 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. yolks of four eggs, a cup of sugar, and cook as for a custard; set in a cold place, and when cool add a pint of whipped cream in which has been stirred one-third of a box of dissolved gelatine, and stand in a cool place until it thickens. Blanc Mange. Take four ounces of sweet almonds and one-half ounce of bitter almonds, blanched; pound them in a mortar, moistening them occa- ■ gionally with orange-flower Avater; mix this with one quart of fresh ■^^ cream; set the cream and almonds on the fire, stirring constantly; when it comes to a scald pour in one-half box of gelatine which has been previously dissolved by soaking in half a cup of cold water ' one hour. Ckeam a la Mode. Put half a pound of white sugar into a deep glass dish; the juice of one large orange and one lemon; to one ounce of isinglass or _ gelatine add one pint of water; let it simmer down one-half, and when cool strain it into the glass dish, and by degrees add one and one-half pints of whipped cream; stir till cool, and place it on ice to stiffen. Coffee Cream. Sweeten one pint of rich cream rather liberally; roast two ounces • of coffee kernels; when they are lightly browned throw them into the cream at once, and let the dish stand an hour before using; strain, and whip the cream to a stiff froth. A teaspoonful of pow- ■ dered gum arable dissolved in a little orange-flower water, may be added to give the cream more firmness, if desired. Bavarian Cream. Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, and set in a colander • one minute to allow the un whipped portion to drip away; boil one pint of milk and one-half cup of sugar; flavor with vanilla, and add one-half package of gelatine dissolved in water, remove from the fire, and cool; add the well-beaten whites of four eggs. When ..v-the mixture has become quite cold add the whipped cream gradually CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 93" until it is well mixed; put into individual molds a teaspoonful of Bome bright jelly or jam, then pour the mixture and place in an ice-chest until wanted. This cream may be flavored in any way desired. Chocolate Bavarian Cream Can be made as the preceding by adding two cakes of sweet chocolate, soaked and stirred smooth in two tablespoonfuls of water, to the yolks of the eggs. Caledonian Cream. Two ounces of raspberry jam or jelly, two ounces of red currant . jelly, two ounces of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of two eggs put into a bowl and beaten with a spoon for three-quarters of an hour. This makes a very pretty cream, and is good and economical. Charlotte Russe Elegante. One-half package of gelatine dissolved in a very little water; . one quart of whipped cream, flavored and sweetened to taste. Line a mold with sponge or white cake; stir the gelatine into the cream and pour into the prepared mold. The cake may be soaked in a little wine if preferred". Charlotte Russe. One pint of cream well whipped ; beat five tablespoonfuls of sugar irith the yolks of four eggs; simmer together one-half pint of milk and one-half ounce of isinglass or gelatine till the gelatine is dis- solved, then mix with the beaten yolks and the sugar, then the whites of the eggs well beaten, then the whipped cream; flavor with one gill of wine and set it aside to cool; pour it into a mold which was previously lined with pieces of sponge cake. When it is stiff and solid turn out into a dish and sift sugar over the top. Charlotte Russe, No. 2. One box of gelatine so.ikcd in milk one-half hour; while it is soaking make a soft custard witli the yolks of seven eggs, one pint ©f milk, and one-half pound of crushed sugar. "When the custar(l . '94 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. "begins to boil pour in the gelatine and it will dissolve; when dis- solved, strain the custard through a sieve and add one gill of cold cream; then let it cool a little, but not enough to thicken; whip a good quart of thick cream, add vanilla or any flavoring to suit the taste, add this to the custard, set it in the ice chest and stir occa- sionally until it begins to thicken. Then beat the whites of the seven eggs to a froth, adding two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and stir into the custard and cream, stirring occasionally very gently until it is thick enough to turn into the molds which have been lined with sponge fingers or slices. Set them back iu the ice chest. Feuit Gharlotte. Line a dish with sponge cake; place upon the bottom, in th^ centre of the dish, gi'ated pine-apple; cover with a whipped cream blanc mange. Keep back a little of the cream to pour over the top after it is poured out of the mold. Genoese Ceeam. One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar. Boil until it thickens; add the yolks of three eggs and a piece of butter the size of an (^^gg', flavor with lemon or vanilla. Cover the bottom of the dish with sponge cake, spreading one side of the cake with currant or other jelly. Pour on the cream and dust the ^oj) with sugar. Italian Cream. Put one ounce of soaked isinglass, six ounces of loaf sugar, and one pint of milk, into a sauce pan; boil slowly and stir all the time until the isinglass is dissolved; strain the mixture, and, when cool, mix it with a pint of thick cream; flavor with one teaspoonful of extract of bitter almond, and one gill of rose water. Beat thoroughly until it thickens; pour into a large or into individual -molds and put into an ice box until wanted. CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 95 Manioca Crea^i. Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one pint of milk, three eggs, vanilla and sugar to taste; soak the manioca in water till soft; boil the milk; while boiling stir in the manioca and the yolks of the eggs beaten with the sugar; when cooked sufficiently pour into a dish to cool; when cold, add the vanilla; beat the whites of the €o-gs until stiff, sweeten and flavor them and stir part into the cream, putting the rest on top. RussE Ceeam. One-half box of gelatine soaked in a little water one hour, one quart of milk, one cup of sugar, and four eggs. Mix sugar, milk, yolks of eggs, and gelatine together; put in a pail, set in a kettle of water and boil twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the cg^-3 €tiff, and stir into the custard after taking off the fire. Flavor with vanilla and pour into molds. Serve with sugar and cream or with custard. Rock Ckeam. Boil rice until, quite soft in new milk, sweeten with powdered loaf sugar. Pile it in a dish and lay on it in different places lumps of currant jelly, or any kind of preserves; beat the whites of five eggs to a fctiff froth; add flavoring and a tablespoonful of thick cream; drop it over the rice forming a rock of cream. Spaxish Cream. Make a soft custard of one quart of milk, the yolks of six eggs, six tablespoonfuls of sugar. Put one box of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water over the fire; add the custard; flavor with vanilla. Strain into molds and set in a cool place. Tapioca Cream. One cup of tapioca soaked for eight hours in milk enough to cover; then take one quart of milk, place on the stove, and when it boils add the beaten yolks of tAVO eggs and the tapioca; let it boil up. •*6 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. then stir the beateu whites xevy t]iorou<^lily through it. Sweeten and flavor to taste. Eat cold. To one quart very thick whipped cream, add powdered sugar to taste and a glass of wine. Make just before ready to use. Whipped Cream Sauce. Mix a plateful of whipped cream (flavored with vanilla), the beaten whites of two eggs and pulverized sugar to taste, all together; pile a bank of this mixture in the center of a platter and form a circle of little fruit puddings (steamed in cups) around it, or it is nice for corn starch, blanc manges, etc. Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours. It is the best for tea and coffee. Double cream stands on its milk twenty-four hours, and cream for butter frequently stands forty- eight hours. Cream that is to be whipped should not be butter cream, lest in whipj)ing it change to butter. Almond Custard. One pint of new milk, one cup of pulverized sugar, one-quartek xiound of almonds (blanched and pounded), two teaspoonf.ils rose water, the yolks of four eggs; stir this over a slow fire until it is of the consistency of cream, then remove it quickly and put mto a dish. Beat the whites with a little sugar added to the froth, and lay on top. Apple Custard. One pint of mashed stewed apples, one pint of sweet milk, four eggs, one cup of sugar, and a little nutmeg. Bake slowly. Boiled Custard. Allow five eggs to one quart of milk, a tablespoonful of sugar td each egg, set the milk in a kettle of boiling water until it scalds; then, after dipping a little of the milk on to the eggs and beating up, turn into the scalded milk, and stir until it thickens. Flavor to taste. CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 97 Baked Custard. One quart of milk, five eggs, a pinch of salt, sugar and flavor t# taste, boil the milk; when cool, stir in the beaten eggs and sugar, pour into cups, set them in pans of water, and bake; if baked to« long, will become watery. Chocolate Cetstaed. Make a boiled custard with one quart of milk, the yolks of six eggs, six tablespoonf uls of sugar, and one-half cup of grated vanilla chocolate. Boil until thick enough, stirring all the time. When nearly cold, flavor with vanilla. Pour into cups, and put the whiteg of the eggs beaten with some powdered sugar on the top. Coffee Custard. One-half pint of rich cream, one-half cup cold coflfee, four eggs, sugar to taste. Corn Starch Custard. Most persona know how to make a corn starch custard. A rich one can be made as follows: One quart of milk with five beatea eggs in it; sweeten and flavor to choice, adding one-fourth pound of corn starch ; place over the fire, stirring quickly to avoid burn- ing to the bottom, until it begins to thickrn. Or, can take less egg by using more corn starch, as follows: On? quart of milk, two eggs, sugar and flavor to taste, one-half pound of corn starch. If this is too much starch and it becomes too thick, take it off the fire, add a a little milk, stirring till smooth. A custard is best made in a vessel placed in boiling water, as there is no risk of burning. Custards require to be stiffer for filling cream puffs, chocolate eclares, charlotte russes, etc. The above receipts are thick enough for any of the purposes, and, if required for simple custard, less starch will do. CocoANUT Custard. To one pound of grated cocoanut, allow one pint of scalding^ milk and six ounces of sugar. Beat well the yolks of six eggs and 98 CREAMS AND CUSTARDa ■tir them alternately into the milk with the cocoanut and sugar. Pour this into a dish lined with paste and bake twenty minutes; or, if preferred, treat the milk, cocoanut, eggs, and sugar as for boiled euBtard, and serve in cups. Cold Cup Custard. One quart of new milk, one pint of cream, one-fourth pound of fine white sugar, three large tablespoonfuls of wine, in which rennet has been soaked. Mix the milk, cream and sugar together, ftir the wine into it, pour the mixture into custard cups, and set them away until the milk becomes a curd. Grate nutmeg on top and eat them with cream that has been kept on ice. Caeamel Custard. Put two dessert-spoonfuls of crushed sugar into a tin pan; let it stand on the stove till it begins to brown, then stir constantly till it is a thick, black syrup. Pour it into a quart of scalding milk; add six ounces of white sugar and the yolks of six eggs. Beat and pour into cups, set in a pan of hot water in the oven and bake twenty minutes. Lemon Custard. Four eggs (leave out the white of one), one cup of sugar, one cup of cold water, one grated lemon, a small piece of butter, one table- spoonful of corn starch; bake as custard; after it is baked, cover it with the beaten white and pulverized sugar; return to the oven; bake a light brown. Moonshine. Beat the whites of six eggs into a very stiff froth, then add grad- ually six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beating for not less than fifteen minutes; then beat in one heaping tablespoonful of preserved peaches cut in tiny bits. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 9» Floating Island. Set a quart of milk to boil, then stir into it the beaten yolka of six eggs; flavor with any extract liked and sweeten to taste; whip whites of eggs to a stiff froth. When the custard is thick, put into a deep dish, and heap the frothed eggs upon it. Place pieces of currant jelly on top and serve cold. Floattn-g Island, No. 2. Into three-quarters of a pint of cream, put sugar to make it very eweet, and the juice and rind of a lemon grated. Beat it for ten minutes. Cut French rolls into thin slices, and lay them on a round dish on the top of the cream. On this put a layer of apricot or currant jam, and some more slices of roll. Pile upon this, very high, a whip made of damson jam, and the whites of four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruits or sweetmeats. Irish Moss. Soak a scant handful of Irish moss in strong soda water until it swells; then squeeze the moss until it is free from water, and put it in a tin bucket which contains six pints of sweet milk. Set the bucket in a large iron pot which holds several pints of hot water; stir seldom, and let it remain until it will jell slightly by dropping on a cold plate. Strain through a sieve, sweeten and flavor to taste. Rinse a mold or a crock with tepid water; pour in the mix- ture, and set it away to cool. In a few hours it will be palatable. Eat with cream and sugar — some add jelly. QTrAETTTG CtrsTAin). Three cups of milk; yolks of four eggs, reserving the whites for \he meringue ; one-half package gelatine; six tablespoonfuls of «uc;ar; vanilla flavoring; juice of one lemon for menngue. Soak IOC CREAMg AND CUSTARDS. the gelatine two hours in a cup of the cold milk. t'hen add to the rest of the milk, which must be boiling hot, and stir until dissolved. Let it stand a few minutes, and strain through muslin over the beaten yolks and sugar. Put over the fire and stir five minutes, or until you can feel it thickening. Stir up well when nearly cold, flavor, and let it alone until it congeals around the edges of the bowl into which you have poured it; then stir again, and put into a wet mold. Set upon ice, or in cold water until firm- Turn it, when you are ready for it, into a glass bowl. Have a meringue made by whipping the whites stiff with three tablespoon- fuk of powdered sugar, and the lemon juice. Okange Snow. Peel sweet oranges, slice and lay them in a glass dish with alter- nate layers of grated cocoanut and powdered loaf sugar, leaving a layer of cocoanut on top. Pour over the whole a glass of orangff and lemon juice mixed* Place on ice untii r^i^jf to serve. CHAPTER VI. (!tat0up0» AJNT buy their catsups, but good home-made catsup is a most valuable addition to the store-room, and a good housekeeper will always look with pride upon it as it stands upon the shelves in closely-corked bottles, neatly labeled, feeling, as she may, that she possesses close at hand the means of impart- ing a delicious flavor to her sauces and gravies without at the same time placing any " "'*'' deleterious compound before her friends. The superiority of catsup when made at home is undisputed, and the comfortable certainty attending its use is so great, that we would earnestly recommend every lady who has the time and opportunity to do so, to superintend personally the manufacture of that which is used in the kitchen. Catsup should be stored in a cool, dry place; the corks should be covered with resin, and the liquid should be examined frequently, and if there are the slightest signs of fermentation or mold, it should be re-boiled with a few pepper- corns, and put into fresh, dry bottles. Always select perfect fruit, and cook in a porcelain-lined kettle. CuRBANT Catsup. Boil five pints of ripe currants in one pint of vinegar until soft; strain all through a sieve, then add three pints of sugar, and one tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice; boil about one hour. 101 102 CATSUPS. Cucumber Catsup. Take one-half bushel of full-grown cucumbers, peel and chop them, sprinkle them with salt, aud put them in a sieve and let them stand over night; add two dozen onions, cut up small, one-half pound white mustard seed, one-half pound of black mustard seed, two ounces of black pepper, ground. Mix well with the best cider ▼inegar, making it the consistency of thick catsup, and fill your jars, tying up closely. It requires no cooking. GOOSEBERRT CaTSUP. Ten pounds of gooseberries, six pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one tablespoonful each of allspice and cloves. Mash the gooseberries thoroughly; scald and put through the colander; add the sugar and spices, and boil fifteen minutes, then add the vinegar; bottle immediately. Ripe grape* may be prepared in the same manner. Plum Catsup. To three pounds of fruit put one and three-fourths pounds of sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one tablespoonful of pepper, a very little salt; scald the plums and put them through a colander; then add sugar and spices, and boil to the right consistency. Tomato Catsup. Take sound ripe tomatoes, slice and cook until done enough to put through a sieve; then to every gallon of the pulp and juice add one cup of chopped onion, one-half cup of black pepper, four pods of red pepper, cut fine, one-half cup of ground ginger and mustard mixed, one ounce celery seed, one-half cup of allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon, mixed, one-half teaspoonful cloves, two cups of sugar, and sufficient salt to taste distinctly, one pint strong cider vinegar; put all together and cook two hours, or longer if not thick enough. It must not be thin or watery. Bottle and seal while hot, an(? in a good cellar it will keep two years. CATSUPS. 10,'i Tomato Catsup, No. 2. One bushel of good ripe tomatoes, one-half gallon of cider vine- gar, one-fourth pound of allspice, two ounces of cloves, three tablespoonfuls of black pepper, six large onions or two heads of garlic, one pint of salt, four large red peppers; cook thoroughly, and strain through a sieve, then boil till it ii thick enough, and ^dd the vinegar. CHAPTER VII. iEauuiug iluit, l^TIIvE ex})iilsioM of air is the pnncix»le in- volved in preserving fruit by canning; this accomplished and your work is a success. The best cans are of glass, and to, those having rubbers which do not come in contact with the fruit. The fruit should be touched by the glass only. See that the cans and rubbers are perfect, and the tops fit well. Set your cans in a pan of wai'm water on the stove so as to heat them up, and thus prevent breaking when the hot fruit is put into them. Use a granite-iron or porcelain kettle to cook the fruit in. When the rubbers for the tops are hardened, put them in a Bolut ion of one i)art ammonia and two parts water, leaving them five to twenty minutes, or time needed to soften. To can small fruit whole, and also to can rapidly, fill the cans with the fresh fruit and pour in what water the can will hold, place in a wash-boiler of hike- warm watcM-, taking care the cans do not touch the bottom of the boiler or they are liable to break. Have the water about two-thirds the height of the can, bring the water gradually to a boiling point, and then let it boil slowly from five to ten minulevS. Take out the cans, place on a warm cloth, and shake well to exclude llu^ bubbles; a fork can also be pushed into the can to close the air bubbles. Fill the can brim full of boiling water and seal rapidly. An easier but slower process is to cook the fruit in a kettle, and having heated the cans in hot water to prevent brejiking, pour into them the cooked 104 OAJ^NING FBUIT. 105 fruit, some of the juice to prevent air vacancies, then fill full with the fruit and Heal (quickly. After an liour or two screw the tops again and repeat this oi)eratiou two or three times, as the glass contracts as it cools and there is danger of adjuitting tlie air. When all ready place in a cool, dry, and dark place. In a week look at the cans, and if you detect any fermenting, re-can them, or tlie surer way to save them, is to eat them. Where wide mouth bottles are used instead of cans, the corks should be steamed, then made to fit closely, and drive in tight, seal them with a mixture of about two ounce^i tallow, three ounces beeswax, and one pound of resin. Cover the top of the bottle well, and, when it cools, dip the top into the melted sealing wax. Table for Canning Fruit. Time for Quantity boiling of sugar fruit. per qt. Apricots 10 min. 8 oz. Sour Apples 10 " 6 " Crab Aijples 25 " 8 " Blackberries 6 " 6 " Gooseberries 8 " 8 " Raspberries.... 6 •' 4 " Huckleberries 5 " 4 " Strawberries 8 " 8 " Cherries 5 " (\ " Currants 6 " 8 " Time for boiling fruit. Wild Grapes 10 min, Hour Pears, whole 30 " Bartlet Pears 20 " Peaches, in halves 8 " Pbims 10 " Peaches, whole 15 ** Pine-apple, sliced 15 " Tomatoes 30 " Quinces 30 " Rhubarb 10 " Quantity of sugar per qt. 8 oz. 10 10 Apple Sauce. Ready for table use or for pies, may be kept till apples are out of the market by putting it into hot jars and sealing at once. Canned Pine- apple. Pare the fruit and be very particular to cut out the eyes; chop ■fine and weigh it; add to it the same weight of sugar; mix thor- oughly in a large crock; let stand twenty- four hours, then put 106 CANNING FRUIT. into cans, filling them full, and seal tight. After leaving them about two weeks it is well to see if there are any signs of working; if so, pour into a kettle and heat through and replace in the cans. Canned Pine-apple, No. 2. Three-fourths pound of sugar to one pound of fruit, allowing one cup of water to a pound of sugar. Pick the pine-apple to piece* with a silver fork; scald and can hot. Canned Berries. Heat slowly to boiling in a porcelain kettle; when they begin to boil, add sugar according to table above. Before doing this, how- ever, if there is much juice in the kettle, dip out the surplus and save for jelly; it will only increase the number of cans. Leave the berries almost dry before putting in the sugar, this will make syrup enough. Boil all together and can. Canned Pears. Prepare a syrup, allowing a pint of water and one-fourth pound of sugar to one quart of fruit. While this is heating peel the pears, dropping each as it is pared into a pan of clear water. When the syrup has come to a fast boil, put in the pears carefully and boU. until they look clear and can be easily pierced by a fork. Have the cans ready rolled in hot water; pack with the pears and fill to over- flowing with the scalding syrup, which must be kept on the fire all the while, and seal. The tougher and more common pears must be boiled in water until tender, and thrown while warm into the hot syrup, then allowed to boU ten minutes before they are canned. Canned Peaches. Pare, cut in half and stone, taking care not to break the fruit; drop each piece in cold water as soon as it is pared. Allow % heaping tablespoonful of sugar to each quart of fruit, scattering it between the layers. Fill your kettle and heat slowly to » boil. Boil three minutes, until every piece of fruit is heated through* FRESH FRUITS, lOf Can and seal. Put a cup of water in the bottom of the kettle- before packing it with fruit, to keep the lower layer from burning. FEESH FRUITS. Pine Apples. Slice on a slaw cutter, or very thin with a knife; mix with finely-powdered sugar. Set on ice till ready to serve. A Nice Way to Prepare Apples. Pare a dozen tart apples, take out the core, place sugar, with a small lump of butter, in the center of each apple, put them in a pan with half a pint of water, bake until tender, basting occasion- ally with the syrup while baking; when done,]|serve with cream. To Stew Apples. One pound]|sugar boiled in one quart of spring water and skim- med, one pound of the largest pippins, cut in quarters and the cores taken out. Have the syrup boiling; when you put them in let them stew till they are quite tender, then add the juice of two large lemons, and the peel cut small; give them a few more boils after the lemons are put in. If you want them to keep all the year, the syrup must be well boiled after the apples are taken out. As you peel the apples fling them into cold water. Bananas and Cream. Peel, slice, and heap up in a glass dassert-dish, and serve Wkw, with fine sugar and cream. To Crystalize Fruit. Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit — leave in the stones; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth; lay the fruit in their 108 FRESH FRUITS. beaten egg, with the stems upward; drain thtau and beat the part that drips off again ; select them out, one by one, and dip them into i. cup of finely-powdered sugar; cover a pan with a sheet of fine paper, place the fruit on it, and set it in a cool oven; when the icing on the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and set them in a cold place. To Keep Grapes. Select nice fresh clusters, and cut the end of the stem smooth and dip it into melted sealing wax; then put it in cotton batting; pack them away in wooden boxes; keep them in a dry cool place. In this way they will keep fresh all winter. Another way — Take full bunches, ripe and perfect; seal the end that is cut from the vine so that no air can get in, or the juice of the stem run out, and let them stand one day after sealed, so as to be perfectly sure they are sealed (if not they will shrivel up) ; then pack in boxes of dry sawdust and keep in a cool place; they will keep nicely all winter without losing their flavor; in packing, do not crowd the bunches; sprinkle the sawdust over the bottom of the box, then lay the grapes carefully, a bunch at a time, all over the box, then sawdust and grapes alternately until the box is full. Melons. Melons are much nicer if kept on ice until time for serving. Cut off a slice at each end of the water-melon, then cut through the center; stand on end on platter. Cantaloupe melons should have the seeds removed before sending to the table. Eat with a spoon- ful of strained honey in each half of melon. Oranges. Slice, mix with powdered sugar, and strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. Are also nice served whole, the skins quartered and turned down. Form in a pyramid with bananas and white grapes. Candied Cherries. Two quarts large, ripe, red cherries, stoned carefully; two poundi loaf sugar one cup water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water FRESH FRUITS. 10<>> and boil until it is thick enough to " pull," as for candy. Remove to the side of the range, and stir until it shows signs of granula- tion. It is well to stir frequently while it is cooking, to secure this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in the cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply \ie in the boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad dish, and dry in a sunny window. Stewed Pears. Peel pears. Place them in a little water, with sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently, and add one glass of cider. Dish up cold. Glaci! Cherries. Make as above, but do not let the syrup granulate. It should not be stirred at all, but when it " ropes " pour it over the cherries, which should be spread out upon a large flat dish. When the syrup is almost cold, take these out, one by one, with a teaspoon, and spread upon a dish to dry in the open air. If nicely managed, these are nearly ^s good as those put up by professional confec- tioners. Keep in a dry, cool place. Candied Lemon-Peel. Twelve fresh, thick-skinned lemons, four pounds loaf sugar, a- little powdered alum, three cups clear water. Cut the peel from the lemons in long, thin strips, and lay in strong salt and water all night. Wash them in three waters next morning, and boil them until tender in soft water. They should be almost translucent, but not so soft as to break. Dissolve a little alum — about half a tea- spoonful, when powdered — in enough cold water to cover the peel, and let it lie in it for two hours. By this time the syrup should be ready. Stir the sugar into three cups of water, add the strained juice of three lemons and boil it until it " ropes " from the end of the spoon. Put the lemon-peels into this, simmer gently half aa 110 FRESH FRUITS. iiour; eake them out and spread upon a sieve. Shake, not hard, but often, tossing up the peels now and then, until they are almost dry. Sift granulated sugar over them and lay out upon a table spread with a clean cloth. Admit the air freely, and, when per- fectly dry, pack in a glass jar. CHAPTER VIII. JDc05ert0. Puddings. AJIE and attention to the following instructions will bring good rcvsults: Let the several ingredients be each good and fresh of its kind, as one bad article, particularly eggs, will taint the whole composition. Have the molds and pudding cloths carefully washed ;' when used, the cloths with wood ashes, and dried in the open air. Lay them aside sweet and thoroughly dry. Pudding ought to be put into plenty of boiling water, which must be kept on a quick boil; or, baked, in general in a sharp but not scorching oven. A pudding in which there is much bread must be tied loosely, to allow for swelling. A batter pudding should be tied up firmly. Molds should be quite full, well buttered and covered with a fold or two of paper floured and buttered. Eggs for pudding must be used in greater quantities when of small size. The yolks and whites, if the pudding is wanted particularly white and nice, should be strained after being separately well beaten. A little salt is necessary for all potato, bean, or pea puddings, and all puddings in which there is suet or meat, as it improves the flavor. The several ingredients, after being well stirred together, should in general have a little time to stand, that the flavors may blend. In puddings where brandy, wine, cider, or any acid is used, it should be stirred in last and gradually, or it is apt to curdle the milk or eggs. A frequent fault of boiled puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being 111 112 DESSERTS. underdone. Baked puddings are as often scorched. Pudding* may be steamed with advantage, placing the mold or basin in the gteamer and keeping the water boiling under it. When the pud- ding-cloths are to be used, dip them in hot water, and dredge them with flour; the molds must be buttered. When a pudding begins to set, stir it up in the dish, if it is desired that the fruit, etc., fihould not settle to the bottom; and, if boiled, turn over the cloth in the pot for the same reason, and also to prevent it sticking to the bottom, on which a plate may be laid as a preventive. The time of boiling must be according to size and solidity. When the pud- ding is taken out of the pot, dip it quickly into cold water. Set it in a basin of its size; it will then more readily separate from the cloth without breaking. Remember that sugar, butter, and suet become liquids in boiling; it is from their excess that puddings often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of sugar; for if you have much syrup you must have more eggs and flour, which make puddings heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar that makes tapioca and arrowroot, boiled plain, troublesome to keep in shape when molded. Rice or other grain puddings must not be allowed to boil in the oven before setting, or the ingredients will separate and never set ; so never put them in a very hot oven. As a rule, We may assume that such flavoring ingredients as lemon — ^grate or juice, vanilla and cocoanut, are more admired in modern puddings than cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Care must be taken to mix batter puddings smoothly. Let the dried flour be gradually mixed with a little of the milk, as in making starch, and afterwards, in nice cookery, strain it through a coarse sieve. Puddings are lighter boiled than baked. Raisins, prunes, and damsons, for puddings must be carefully stoned; or. Sultanas may be used in place of other raisins; currants must be picked and plunged in hot water, rubbed in a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before the fire; almonds must be blanched and sliced; and in mixing grated bread, pounded biscuit, etc., with milk, pour the milk on them while hot, and cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better and easier DESSERTS. 113^ than boiling. Suet must be quite fresh and free from fiber. Mut- ton suet for puddings is lighter than beef; but marrow, when it can be obtained, is richer than either. A baked pudding, for com- pany, has often a paste border, or a garnishing of blanched and sliced almonds about it, but these borders are merely matters of ornament; if molded, puddings may also be garnished in various ways, as with bits of currant jelly. The best seasoning for plain batter puddings are extracts of orange or lemon, or orange-flower water. The sweetness and flavor of pudding must, in most cases, be determined by individual tastes. Sugar can be added at tablo. To YOTTNG HoirSEKEEPERS. All young housekeepers should leani as soon as possible how to prepare dishes for dessert which can be made on very short notice, that they may not be annoyed in the event of unexpected company to dinner. In summer, fruit answers every purjiose, but at other seasons, and particularly if the first course is not very elaborate^ she will need to have something more substantial. A delicious pudding can be made in a few minutes by taking one pint of milk and stirring into it half a cup of cassava, half a cup of cocoanut, two eggs, a little butter, salt and sugar to taste; flavor with vanilla. Cook this as you would boiled custard. When cooked and put in the dish in which it is to be served, pour over the top the white of one egg beaten to a stiff frotii, with a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar added. Set it in the oven for a short time to brown. This may be eaten warm or cold, with jelly or preserves or without. Another dish which is easily made and which is economical as well as palatable, is to take slices of cake which are a little dry and pour over them while ho*^ some boiled custard; cover the dish quickly, and the hot custard will steam the cake sufliciently. Raisin cake steamed and served with some pudding sauce is good. Velvet cream, to be eaten with cake, is made in this way: Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, two tablespoonfuls of raspberrjr 114 DESSERTS. jam; beat all well together; cream may be added or not, as you choose. Oranges cut up> with sugar and grated cocoanut sprinkled over them are also nice for cake. Arkoweoot Pudding. One quart milk, three and one-half tablespoonfuls arrowroot, four eggs, one cup sugar, one teaspoonful each of extract nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil the milk, add the arrowroot dissolved in a little water, and the sugar; let reboil; take from the fire; beat in the eggs, whipped a little, and the extracts; pour in a well-buttered earthen- ware, dish, and bake in a quick oven one-half an hour; a few minutes before taking from the oven, sift two tablespoonfuls sugar over it, and set back to glaze. This pudding is generally eaten cold. Almond Pudding. Two egg muffins, one cup almonds, blanched — ^pouring boiling water on them till the skin slips easily off — and pounded to a fine paste, one and one-half cups sugar, four eggs, one and one-half pints milk, one teaspoonful each of extract bitter almonds and rose. Cut off the top crust from muffins very thin; steep them in the milk; beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar with the almonds, then add the steeped muffins squeezed a little dry; dilute with the milk, add the extract, and put it thus prepared into a well-buttered earthenware dish; then stir gently in the whites beaten to a dry froth, and bake in a moderately quick oven about one-half hour. Pie-Plant Charlotte. Wash and cut the pie-plant into small pieces, cover the bottom of a pudding dish with a layer of pie-plant and sugar, then a layer of bread crumbs and bits of butter, or thin slices of bread nicely buttered, and so on until the dish is full. Bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. If preferred, turn over the charlotte a boiled custard when ready for the table. DESSERTS. 115 Croquettes of Rice. Put a quarter of a pound of rice, one pint of milk, three table- spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small nut and the thin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any other flavoring may be used if preferred. Simmer gently until the rico is tender and the milk absorbed. It must bo boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn it out, and when it is cold and still, form it into small balls; dip these in egg, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them, and fry them in clar- ified fat till they are lightly and equally browned. Put them on a piece of clean \ blotting paper, to dram the fat from them, and serve them piled high on the dish. If it can be done without breaking them, it is an improvement to introduce a little jam into the middle of each one; or jam may be served with them. Time, about one hour to boil the rice, ten minutes to' fry the croquettes. BOMBES AU Riz, Take half a pint of rice, put in three pints of boiling water, and salt. Let it boil fifteen minutes. At the end of that time drain the rice, pour on milk enough to cover it; put it on the back part of the stove, where it will not burn, and let it absorb the milk; put in enough milk to make the rice soft. While the milk is being absorbed add four tablespoonfuls of sweetening and one teaspoonf ul of flavoring. When the rice is thoroughly tender take it from the fire and add the yolks of three eggs. If the rice is not hot enough to thicken the eggs, put it back on the fire; stir constantly and let it remain just long enough to thicken, but don't let it bum. As soon as it thickens put it on a dish and rub with salad oil ; then put it where it will get very cold. As soon as cold it is ready to use im DESSERTS. for rice croquets or bombes. Take a tablespoonful of rice in your hand and flatten it; put a plum or any sweetmeat in the center, roll the rice round the sv/eetnieat, roll in cracker dust, dip in egg, then roll in the cracker du8t again. Fry in smoking hot lard and, serve hot or cold. Green Corn Pudding. A most delicious accompaniment to a meat course. Take one quart of milk, five eggs, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one tablespoonful white sugar, and a dozen large ears green corn; grate the corn from the cob; beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately; put the corn and yolks together, stir hard and add the butter, then the milk gradually, beating all the while, next the sugar, and a little salt, lastly the whites. Bake slow at first, cover- ing the dish for an hour; remove the cover and brown nicely. Cottage Pudding. One cup milk, two of flour, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one egg, one cup of sugar. Steam three-quarters, or bake one hour. Serve with sauce. Cranberry Roll, Stew a quart of cranberries in just water enough to keep them from burning. Make very sAveet, strain, and cool. Make a paste, and when the cranberry is cold, spread it on the paste about an inch thick. Roll it, tie it close in a flannel cloth, boil two hours and serve with a sweet sauce. Stewed apples or other fruit may be used in the same way. Delmonico Pudding. One quart scalded milk, three tablespoonfuls corn starch, moist- ened with a little cold milk; stir into the Doiling milk the yolks of six eggs well beaten, four tablespoonfuls sugar, stir all together. Take it off the fire, flavor it, and put into a pudding dish. Then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, spread over the top, and brown in the oven. DESSERTS. 117 Evb's Pudding. Take equal quantities of flour, f reHh butter, and sugar, six ounces yi each; beat the butter to a cream, and beat the sugar and flour into it. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat thera until light, and add the yolks first, then the whites, to the batter, and lastly half a dozen almonds, blanched and pounded, and the grated rind of a lemon. Beat well, and fill small cups to about half; then set before the fire to rise. In five minutes put them into the oven and bake for half an hour. Fig Pudding. Half a pound figs, half cup suet, half a pound bread crumbs, one tablespoonful sugar, three eggs, one cup milk; chop the suet and figs fine, add some cinnamon and nutmeg, and a glass of wine, if you choose, or leave it out if you prefer. Boil it three hours — sauce. Fruit Pudding. Take one cup each sweet milk, suet (minced), raisins, currants, and molasses. Stiffen with bread crumbs and a little flour, having added three teaspoonfuls baking powder to the flour and crumbs; boil or steam till done. This pudding is equally as good 'the second day as the first. Baked Farina Pudding. Stir into a quart of milk when boiling one-half pound farina, cook it five minutes and set it aside to cool, meanwhile stir four ounces of butter to a cream, grate the rind of a lemon and add the yolk of six eggs, one cup each of sugar, raisins, and currants, and mix all well together with the cooked farina. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth, stir it into the batter, and bake slowly for an hour. Plain Fruit Pudding. Take one and a half cups of flour, one cup of bread crumbs, one cup of raisins, half a cup of currants, two nutmegs, one cup of suet chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, four eggs, a wine glass 118 DESSERTS. of brandy, a wine glass of syrup, and a little milk if necessary. Mix very thoroughly; tie it in a cloth as tight as possible, and boil fast for five or six hours. Serve with wine sauce. Florentine Pudding. Put a quart of milk into your pan, let it come to a boil; mix smoothly three tablespoonfuls of corn starch and a little cold milk; add the yolks of three eggs beaten, half a cup of sugar, flavor with, vanilla, lemon, or anything your fancy suggests; stir into the scalding milk, continue stirring till of the consistency of starch (ready for use), then put into the pan or dish you wish to serve it in; beat the whites of the eggs with a cup of pulverized sugar, and spread over the top ; place in the oven a few minutes, till the frosting is a pretty brown. Can be eaten with cream, or is good enough without. For a change, you can bake in cups. Gelatine Pudding. One ounce gelatine, one pint cold milk; set on range, and let come slowly to a boil, stirring occasionally; separate the yolks and whites of six fresh eggs; beat the yolks well and stir slowly into hot milk; add half a pound of granulated sugar; when quite cold, stir in a quart of whipped cream; flavor with vanilla and lemon extract mixed; have the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff, and stir in the last thing; pack on ice. Ginger Pudding. One egg, one cup of molasses, half a cup butter, half a cup of fruit, half a cup of hot water, one tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda. Stir stiff and steam one hour. Sauce for Ginger Pudding. — One egg, one cup sugar, one-third of a cup of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of lemon. Pour boiling water in and make like thia starch. Honey Comb Pudding. Three cups flour, one cup beef suet, one cup milk, one cup DESSERTS. 119 molasses, one cup raisins, currants or whortleberries in the season, one teaspoonful soda, a little salt. Boil or steam three hours — sauce. HUCKLEBEEBY PUDDING. One cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two of milk, two eggs, two cups of berries, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, salt. Mix stiff as gingerbread. Boil two hours in a tin pail. Serve with sauce. Hen's Nest. Make blanc mange, pour in egg shells and set to cool; when cold, break the egg shells, place in glass dish, cut strips of lemon peel and let boil in syrup of sugar and water till tender, and sprinkle on tte egg shapes, and make custard and pour over the nest. Indian Pudding. Stir a pint of com meal into a quart of boiling milk; melt four ounces of butter; mix it first with a pint of molasses, and then, very gradually, with the meal. Flavor with nutmeg and grated lemon peel, or cinnamon, and as soon as the mixture has cooled, add, stirring briskly, six well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish and bake at once. Apple Pudding. A loaf of stale bread, steamed twenty minutes before dinner, sliced, spread with stewed apple, and a little butter, strewn with sugar and browned lightly in a quick oven, makes as good a pud- ding as any one would like, with either hard or liquid sauce. Apple Batter Pudding. Six or eight fine juicy apples, pared and cored, one quart of milk, ten tablespoonfuls of flour, six eggs, beaten very light, one table- spoonful butter — ^melted, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful soda, one teaspoonful cream of tartar. Set the apples close together, in the baking dish; put in enough cold water to half €«ver iheui. azi^ Kate, closelv covered, until the edges are clear, but 120 DESSERTS. not until they begin to break. Drain off the water, and let the fruit get cold before pouring over them a batter made of the ingre- dients enumerated above. Bake in a quick oven. Serve in the baking dish, and eat with sauce. Apple Float. To one quart of apples partially stewed and well mashed, put thie whites of three eggs well beaten, and four heaping tablespoonfulg loaf sugar; beat them together fifteen minutes, and eat with rich inilk and nutmeg. Apple Slump. One quart flour sifted with three teaspoonfuls baking powder; shorten with one teaspoonful butter rubbed into the flour. Mix with cold milk or water, the same as for biscuit. Put two quarts of pared, sliced or quartered apples with one pint of water into the dish in which the slump is to be cooked. Roll the crust about an inch thick, cut into quarters and with it cover the apples in the dish; then cover the whole with a close fitting cover, and boil or steam till done. Take out on a platter and grate nutmeg over the apple. Serve with a sweet sauce or sugar and cream. Baked Apple Dumplings. To one quart flour add two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, and the usual quantity of salt. Thoroughly mix while dry and sift. Then take one tablespoonf ul lard and one tablespoonf ul but- ter and chop them into the flour prepared as above. Then mix with sweet milk to a thin dough, just stiff enough to handle_ Roll it out half an inch thick and cut into squares. Apples Surprised. Peel, core, and slice about five nice cooking apples, sprinkle the elices with a spoonful of flour, one of grated bread, and a little sugar. Have some lard quite hot in a small steAv-pan, put the slices of apple in it, and fry of a light yellow; when all are done, take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a good spoonful of grated DESSERTS. I •-' I bread, a Bpoonful of sugar, and a cuj) of milk; put into tlit^ pan, and when they boil up throw in the a})plu wlices, hold tho whole over the fire for two ininuteH, when it will be ready to serve. Amber Pudding. Six eggs beaten light, one cup of cream, creamed with one-half cup of butter, juice of a lemon, and hail' the grated peel, a good pinch of imtnu'g, puff paHt(^ Mix HUgar, hiiltcr, cggK, together; put into a custard kettle, net in hot water, and Htir until it thiekens. Stir in lemon and nutmeg, and let it get (told. J'ut a strip of j)a8te around the edge of a })i(! plate; print it prettily; pour in the cold mixture, and bake in a steady, not too hot oven. Eat cold." AMnuosiA. Eight line oranges, peeled and sliced, one-half grated cocoanut, «ne-half cup of powdered sugar. Arrange slices of orange in a glass dish; scatter grated cocoanut thickly over them; sprinkh; this lightly with sugar, and cover with another layer of orange. Fill the dish in this order, having a double quantity of cocoanut and sugar at top. Serve soon after it is prepared. Ari'i.K Omki.kttk. Six large pip])ins or other large tart apples, one tablespoonful of butter, three eggs, six tablespoonfuls of white sugar, nutmeg to tho taste, and one teaspoon fnl of ros(!water; pare, core, and stew tho apples, as for sauce; beat llieni very smooth wliilo hot, adding butt(!r, sugar, and flavoring; when quite cold, add the eggs, beaten separately very light; put in the whites last and pour into a deep bake-dish previously warmed and well buttered. Hake in a mod- erate oven until it is deli(!afely browned. Eat wanu— not hot. A ■wholesome dish for children. Applk Ciiarlottk. Butter your pudding dish, line it with bread buttered on both sides; put a thick layer of apples, cut in thin slices, sugar, a little cinnamon and butter on top, tlien another layer of bread, apples, 122 DESSERTS. sugar, cinnamon and butter last. Bake slowly one and a lialf hours, keeping the pan covered until half an hour before serving; let the apples brown on top. Baxcroft Pttdde^g. One tablespoonful melted butter, one cup sugar, one egg well beaten, one pint flour, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one of soda, one cup sweet milk; beat well and bake thirty minutes. Bread Pudding. One pint fine bread crumbs to one quart of milk, one cup sugar, yolks of four eggs, well beaten, grated rind of lemon, piece of butter size of an egg. Don't let it bake till watery. Whip the whites of the eggs with one cup sugar to a stiff froth, and put into this the juice of the lemon; spread over the pudding a layer of jelly or other sweemeat; then spread the whites of eggs over this, and replace in the oven and bake lightly. Banana and Apple Tart. Make crust of fine flour and fresh butter. Make little crust, but make it good. Slice apples fine and put in dish with three or four bananas sliced, only adding sugar and perhaps a little syrup, if you have got it. Cover crust over fruit ; brush a little melted butter over top, strew white sugar on and bake twenty minutes or more, as requu-ed. Bird's Nest Pudding. Pare, quarter and core nice tart apples; butter a pie tin and slice the apples in it, make a batter of one cup cream (sour and not very rich), one teaspoonful soda, one egg, a little salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Pour this over the apples and bake; when done turn bottom side up and spread thickly with good sweet butter and sugar. To be eaten warm. Bird's Nest Pudding, No. 2. Take eight or ten nice apples, pare whole and core; place in a DESSERTS. 123 ' y adding dish; fill the cores with sugar and nutmeg. Make a cus- tard of five eggs to one quart of milk, sweeten to taste; pour this over the apples and bake half an hour. Cabinet Pudding. In making it use one pint of milk, six eggs, and a quantity of stale cake — stale bread could be used. The tin must be carefully- greased with butter, and around the inside place bits of fruit. For this, citron, cherries, currants, or any kind of dried fruit, could be used. Over this is put a layer of light colored cake, sponge cake perhaps, and the center is filled to near the top of the dish with broken up pieces. Upon this is poured the custard made of the eggs and milk thoroughly beaten up and flavored to suit the taste* The dish is then placed in a kettle of boiling water, the water coming up within about two-thirds of the way to the top. The pot is covered and boiled until done thoroughly. Ceeam Batter Pudding. Take one cup of sour cream and rub with one cup of flour until smooth; then pour in one cup of sweet milk, three eggs — the yolk» and whites beaten separately, a little salt and two-thirds of a tea- spoonful of soda. Bake in a quick oven. To be eaten with cream, and sugar. Cracker Pudding. Four crackers pounded and sifted, small piece of butter, one and one-half pints milk, scalded and poured on the cracker and butter, four eggs, sugar to sweeten, nutmeg. Chocolate Pttddtitg. One quart of sweet milk, three ounces grated chocolate. Scald the milk and chocolate together; when cool, add the yolks of five eggs and one cup sugar. Bake about twenty-flve minutes; beat the whites from the top; browTi in the oven; eat cold. Charlotte Pudding. Remove the crust from a loaf of bread, dip in milk, and spread ]21 DESSERTS. tlic hIIocb with butter. P;ii-o jiiid cut apples very tliin. Lay the bread in a buttered dish, spread over tlio apjiles, sweeten and flavor with the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Bake till the apples are tender. Cottage Pudding. Warm two and one-half tablespoonfuls butter, stir in a cup of sugar and two eggs well beaten, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar in one pint Hour, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in one cup milk, flavor with nutmeg or lemon. Bake three-quarters of an hour and serve Lot with sauce. CUSTAKD BkEAD PuDDING. Two cups line dry crumbs; oiu; (juiirt of juilk; live eggs, beatcMi light; oue tablespooiilul corn starcii; one teas[»oonrnl of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in milk; llavor to taste. Soak the crumbs in tlu; milk, and heat in a (uistard kettle to a boil. Add the corn starch wet with cold milk, cook one minute, turn out and beat hard. When smooth and almost cold, whip in the yolks, the flavoring, lastly, tlie whites. Boil in a buttered mold an hour and a half. Kat hot with sweet sauce. It is excellent. CocoAXUT Pudding. Take sufTicient stale bread to make a pudding, the size you require; jjour boiling water over it,. Aftei- it is soaked well, take a fork and see tliat no lumps of bread remain; then add half a cup of grated cocoanul, make a custard of one (piart of milk, and four eggs, flavor with nutmeg (of course you will sweeten it with white sugar) ; pour over and bake immediately. Cream Pudding. j One quart of milk; one cup of hot boiled rice well cooked but not broken; one cup of sugar; one heaping tablespoonful of corn starch; five eggs; one-fourth teaspoonful of cinnamon and the same of grated lemon peel. ITeat the milk, stir in the corn starch wet np with cold milk; then the beaten yolks and sugar. Add to these the heaping cup of boi]ft| rice. Stir until it begins to thicken, add .^i!;SSERTS. iL>r)- the seasoning, and pour into a buttered bake-dish. Bake until well "set;" spread with a meringue of the whites and a little sugar, made very .still. When this has colored lightly, take from the oven. Make on Saturday, and set on ice until Sunday. The coldeP it is the better. Crumk Pudding. Three egg yolks, one ounce of sugar, (jue ounce of bread crumbs, half a teaspoonf ul of cinnamon. Beat the egg-yolks, sugar, crumbs, and spice in a basin for five minutes. Add the three egg-whites beaten to a white snow (not too firm), bake in a buttered shallow tin or dish, and when quite cooled turn into a flat dish with the lower side upward, pour over it a glassful of wine boiled with a. little sugar and spice, and serve while hot. Irish Rock. A sweet for dessert. Wash the salt from lialf a pound of butte^,-. and beat into it a quarter of a pound of finely powdered sugapf-^ blanch a pound of sweet almonds and an ounce of bitter; pound these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet almonds to spika for ornamenting the dish when sent to table; add tlie butter and sugar, with a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound until smooth and white; when, after having become firm, it may be molded into a large egg-like shai)o, and stuck full of almond meats. Il should be i)hiced high on a glass dish, with a decoration of green sweetmeats and a sjjrig of myrtle, y working with the hand a smooth evcai pastci can be maound ot" butti r, iTt\in\ed witli the sugar; six ei::ii"s, whites and yolks beaten separately; i>ne leinini, squeezed into the potato while hot; oni> teaspi>ouful of nutmeg and the same of maee; two cups o{ white sugar. Cream the butter and sugar; add the yolks, the spiee, and beat in the potato gr:ulually until it is very light. At last, whip in the whites. Hake in open shells of paste. Eat cold. 8wKKr Potato Pik. A plate deeper than the common pie plate is necessary. Bsike mediutn-si/.ed potatoes, not quite done. Yams are best. Line tlio plate with good pjvste; slice the potatoes; place a layer upon the bottom of the plate; over this sprinkle thickly a layer of good brown sugar; over this place thin slices of butter and sprinkle with tloiir. si>asoniug with spices to the taste. A heaped tablespoonful of butter ami a lu>aped teaspoonful of tlonr will be sulhcient for one pie. Put on auiuher layer of potatoes, piled a little in the middle. ^li\ together cipial quantities lemon juice and water, or vinegar anil water and pour in enough to half till the pie; sprinkle over the potato a little tlo\ir ami place on the upper crust, pinching tho edges carefully together. Cut a slit in the center and bake slowly an hour. SwKKr Por.vro Pik, Ko. 2. Koll potatoes until tender, pare and put through a col.ander or sieve. To one }>iut iU" potato adil one pint of milk, three eggs, and from one to two cups sugar, to suit taste; tlavor with ginger or leiuou. DKHHFAITH. J J.I Appi-k or Pbacii Mkbinour PrR. Stew the applf-H or pca/^yioH arifl HWfeotfin to tastn. Mawh Bmooth and H<'aHon with nutriic;^. Fill the. cniHiM and }>ak«! until jnHt done, I*ut on no toj* crnHtn. Takf; the wliitr;H f>f tliroe cggH for <;a<;h pio and whip to a HtifT frofJi, and HW(!<'.t(;n with tlin^c! tablr;Hpoonfn|« powdered HUgar. Flavor with roHO water or vanilla, lieat until it will 'stand alone, tJien Hpread it on the pie one-half to oni; ineJi thick, and set back into the oven until the meringue in well " naC Eat cold. Pkacii Pik. Peel, Htone and Hlice the pea^jhen; lin*; a pio plate with eniHt and lay in your fruit, H[»rinkiing HUgar liberally ovf^r tlierri in pro[)ortion to tlufir BWcetneHH. Allow three pe;i<;h kerfielw chopperl fine to each pie; pour in a very little water and hake with an upper cruat, or with croHS-barn of paste acroKH tlie to[». Ql'ince Pib. Pare, Hlicc, and ntew nix fjuinceH till Hoft; press them through a uieve; add to them one pint milk and four well-beaten eggs. Sweeten to taste, and hake in a }>ottom crust three-fourths of an hour in a moderate oven, Ckkam TlAHPnKnuY Vie. Line a pie-dish witli puff paste, and fill with raspberries, sweet- ened }>ountiful]y Cover with a paste crust, but do not pinch this down at the edges. Also rub the edge of the lower crust with butter to prevent adluision, Jiake in a good oven. While it is cooking, heat a small eup of rieli milk, putting in a pinch of soda; gtir into it half a teaspoonful of corn starch, wet in cold rnilk, one tablespoonful of wliite sugar, and cook three minutes. Take it off, and beat in the frothed whites of two eggs. Whip to a cream, and let it get cold. WIkju tlie [tie comes out of the oven, lift the top crust and pour in the mixture; nplacc flic crust and set aside t» cool; «ift sugar upon the top before serving. 10 146 DESSERTS. Raisin Pik. One lemon — ^juice and yellow rind, one cup of raisins, one cup of water, one cup of rolled crackers; stone the raisins, and boil in water to soften them. Rhubarb Pie, One and one-half bunches rhubard, one and one-quarter cups trugar. Cut the fruit in small pieces after stripping oflE the skin, and cook it very fast in a shallow stewpan, with sugar. Line a pie plat7 Flounders. These may be boiled or stewed; but we hold that they never do themselves so much credit as when making their appearance really well fried. Haxibut. Of all flat fish, a halibut is the largest, measuring sometimes about seven feet in length, and weighing from three hundred to four hundred pounds. In its proportions, the halibut is rather longer than other flat fish. The flesh has not much flavor, but is light and wholesome. To boil halibut plain, after scaling the skin on both sides, salt it for six hours, and (unless the piece is very large) plunge it in boiling water. The time of boiling, of course, will depend on the size. Serve, accompanied by white sauce made with milk instead of water, liberally dosed with butter and slightly seasoned with salt and a small pinch of scraped horse-radish. Shrimp or anchovy sauce goes well with it. Where there are the means and skill of frying well, halibut, cut into steaks of the proper thickness, and so prepared, is both sightly and palatable garnished with fried parsley. Some well-buttered sauce is desirable, to obviate its natural dryness. Slices from the middle of a halibut may be divided and trussed into convenient sized cutlets, by cutting them into equal halves directly through the vertebra. The same plan may be adopted with slices from the thick part of other large fish (cod, over-sized pike, and salmon), which it is customary to dress as steaks. We have never heard or road of halibut being in any way served whole. Peech, Eels and Small Pike Are excellent fried. Potted Eels. After cleaning your eels and cutting off their heads, cut them into pieces about two inches long. Put them into a brown earthen pot, to which, if there is not an earthen cover, have a tin one. Season them with salt, pepper, allspice, and a few sp'^Igrs of j)arslejt 158 FISH. and thyme. Pour over the eels a little more vinegar and irater than will cover them; put on the lid and set the pot into a slow • oven. They should not be too much done. As soon as the flesh wll come away from the bones they are done enough. Herrings may be potted in the same way. Collared Eels. These, though a little more trouble than potted eels, make a very ^ood and handsome dish. For this, the larger the eels the better; quite small eels can hardly be collared. Clean the eel, cut off the head, open it on the under side the whole of its length, wash it, take out the backbone, tearing the flesh as little as possible. Dry it by pressing it with a coarse cloth. You will then have a flat -Strip of eel flesh, broad at one end and narrow at the other. Season the inner surface of eel by dusting it with salt, pepper, and allspice. Then roll it tightly upon itself, as you would a ribbon, beginning at the broad end, until you have rolled it into a lump something like a short, thick sausage, blunt at both ends; tie it with broad tape (not with string, which would cut into the flesh when cooked) to keep it from unrolling, and then cook in an earthen pot with & lid exactly as you do potted eels. Sturgeon. There are few people so poor that they will consent to eat stur- geon, yet this fish, if properly cooked, affords, it is said, a luxurious meal. Get a few slices, moderately thick, put them in a pot or pan of water, and parboil them to get rid of the oil; then roll in crumbs of cracker and egg, just as you would a veal cutlet, and fry. This makes a veal cutlet that beats the original by far, and you are sure that it is " full six weeks old," as the butcher always certifies ia regard to the veal. Cods' Head. In some places, fishmongers take the heais off their codfish before ifth them on a Htrainer, if you can, and help with a Hpoon. For-f,aucc, drawn butU^r is good. For Khaq> sauce, take a few tablespoonfuls of the cods' headii boilings; put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter or dripping and a tableKpoonful of vinegar; thicken with a little flour and keep stirring in one direction till they are all rained Hmooth and eorne t^j a boil. Both thene f-auee-i go well with any boiled fish. 'J'o th^iso we will add a third which will be found equally simple and good. For brown sauce, put a good lump of butter or dripping iiiU) a isaacepan. 8et it on a brisk fire, shake it around now and then, and keep it there until it is brownefl, not burnt. Take it off the fire and stir into it a good tablespoonful of vinegar. When they are well mixed, pour into your sauce-boat and serve. Tlia mixing of the vinegar with the hot fat had better be done out of doorn, on account of the quantity of vapor that arises when they are put together. Any meat remaining on the cods* heads after a meal should bo separated from the skin and bone before it gets cold. TVjis rule applies to all other fish. Arrange it neatly on a jAaUi and dust a little pepper and drop a little vinegar over it. It will furnish a nice little delicacy when cold, or you may warm it up with mashed potatoes, adding any sauce that may be left; or, after putting on it the cold sauce left, or a little butter, you may cover with mashed potatoes and sprinkle over it bread crumbs; pour over it beatea egg and brown in the oven. 160 FISH. Fkesh Codfish. Cut it in slices and fry or broil; if fried, roll it first in flour. Saxt Codfish. Pick the fish up fine and let it soak for two hours, then rinse, an thick and firm, and a streak of fat will ajDpear on the side of the breast. Fresh birds will have supple feet, and the head and throat clear; whereas, when stale, the feet are stiff, and the head and throat nasty. . Figeons. — Tame pigeons, when fresh and in good order, are plump, and have their feet pliable and of a dusky white. Wild pigeons are not reckoned so good as tame, but they improve with keeping. They are not so fat but are to be chosen by the same rules as the others. Hares. — An old hare does very well for soup, but for ordinary purposes it is by no means desirable. It will be distinguished by its dry, tough ears, its blunted claws and its widely-parted lips. A young hare has soft and tender ears, sharpish claws, and the I)artiug of the lip close. Eabbit. — An old rabit will have long, rough claws, and fur often inclining to grey. When fresh the body will be rather stiff and the flesh dry and pale; but if stale, it will be limper and the flesh dark colored. 17& GAME. 17 T Venison. — Choose the dark-colored meat, not the black, but tha rich reddish-brown, with fine grain, and well coated with fat. Keep it hung up in a cool, dark cellar, covered with a cloth, and use as soon as you can conveniently. To Pot Birds, Prepare them as for roasting; fill each with a dressing made as follows: Allow for each bird the size of a pigeon one-half of a hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoonful of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped pork; season the birds with pepper and Bait; stuff them and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. Place over the birds a few slices of pork, add a pint of water, dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and butter. If the sauce is too thin, thicken with flour. One pint of water is suf- ficient for twelve birds. Reed Birds. " These delicious lumps of sweetness, as they are appropriately called, are always acceptable, but to thoroughly appreciate a reed bird dinner one must mingle with the gunners on the Delaware river as guest or member of one of the many clubs whose houses are situated within a few hundred yards of the hunting grounds. After the judge's decision as to who has high boat, the birds are plucked (and at some of the club houses drawn), arranged neatly in a dripj^ing-pan with bits of fresh country butter between them. They are allowed to cook on one side a few minutes, and with a long-handled spoon are turned over to brown on the other side. A little salt is added and they are then placed on a hot platter en pyramide and the gravy poured over them; they are then sent to the table with fried chipped potatoes." Reed Birds a la Lindenthorpe. On " ladies' day " the members of this club are more particular than on " member's day." They prepare the birds by drawing the trail and removing the head; they then take large sweet or Irish 12 178, , GAME. potatoes, cut them in two, scoop out the insides, and put an oyster or small piece of bacon inside of each bird and put the birds inside the potatoes, tie them up with twine and bake until the potatoes are done. The common twine is then removed and the potatoes are tied with a narrow piece of white or colored tape in a neat bow- knot and sent to the table on a napkin. Roast Praieie Chicken. The bird being a little strong, and its flesh, when cooked, a little dry, it should be either larded or wide strips of bacon or pork placed over its breast. A mild-seasoned stuffing will improve the flavor of old birds. Dust a little flower over them, baste occasion- ally and serve. Pheasants may be managed in the same way. Praieie Chicken. Clean nicely, using a little soda in the water in which they are washed; rinse them and drain, and fill with dressing, sewing them up nicely, and binding down the legs and wings with cord. Put them in a steamer and let them cook ten minutes; then put them in a pan with a little butter, set them in an oven and baste frequently until of a nice brown. They should brown in about thirty-five minutes. Serve them in a platter with sprigs of parsley alternated with currant jelly. Partridges and quails may be cooked in the same manner. To Roast Paeteidges, Pheasants oe Quails. Pluck, singe, draw and truss them, season with salt and pepper; roast for about half an hour in a brisk oven, basting often with butter. When done, place on a dish together with bread crumbs fried brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be served in a tureen apart. Quail on Toast. Pick and clean, cut in the middle of back, fry in butter to a nice brown, salt and pepper; now put in an earthern or porcelain-lined GAME. 179 dish, one tablespoonful of nice butter and the same of flour: stir on. a slow fire until butter is dissolved; then pour in slowly two-thirds glass of water and the same quantity of wine; salt and pepper; put in your birds that are nicely fried, simmer slowly one-quarter of an hour; toast some thin slices of bread (one toast to each bird); put in the dish you wish to serve, laying the birds on top; pour the gravy over all; serve very hot. To Broil Quail or Woodcock. After dresssing, split down the back, sprinkle with salt and pep- per, and lay them on a gridiron, the inside down. Broil slowly at first. Serve with cream gravy. Pigeon Pie. Dress and wash clean, split down the back, and then proceed as for chicken pie. Roast Pigeons. When cleaned and ready for roasting, fill the bird with a stuffing €)f bread crumbs, a spoonful of butter, a little salt and nutmeg, and three oysters to each bird (some prefer chopped apple). They must l)e well basted with melted butter, and require thirty minutes of careful cooking. They are best in the autumn, and should be full grown. To Roast Pigeons. They should be dressed while fresh. If young, they will be ready for roasting in twelve hours. Dress carefully, and after making clean, wipe dry and put into each bird a small piece of butter dipped in Cayenne. Truss the wings over the back and roast in a quick oven, keeping them constantly basted with butter. Serve with brown gravy. Dish them with young water-cresses. Pigeon Compote. Truss six pigeons as for boiling. Grate the crumbs of a small loaf of bread, scrape one pound of fat bacon, chop thyme, parsley, an onion and lemon — peel fine — and season with salt and peppew 180 GAME. mix it t«p -with two eggs; put this forcemeat into the craws of the pigeons, lard the breasts and fry brown; place them in a stewpan with some beef stock and stew them three-quarters of an hour, thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with force- meat balls around the dish and strain the gravy on to the pigeon. Wild Duck or Mallard, This is one of the best of wild fowl. Truss it as you would a tame luck, but it is not usual to stuff it. As soon as you have plucked and emptied it, boil down the giblets with a little bit of beef, to make savory brown gravy, flavored with lemon juice and wine. Wild duck is better served a little more under-done than tame duck. Some carvers slice the breast, and dose it with Cayenne, lemon juice and its own roast gravy — a, mode of dressing admissible only when everybody likes high seasoning. The bones of the wild duok are smaller than those of the tame. The teal, the jewel of water fowl, if fat, should be laid each on its slice of toast, roasted before the fire; turn it over now and then, and serve on the toast. The cfiot, on account of its black and very downy skin, is best flayed, snt into joints, and stewed with wine as a matelote. It then becomes sxcellent eating. Wild Goose, When to be had, is a treat for lovers of wild fowl; and yet, strange to say, there is a prejudice against it, as fishy. Some few species of geese may indeed graze on seaweed, and perhaps even swallow a few shell-fish when they happen to alight on the shore, hard pressed by hunger; but, as a rule, there is no cleaner feeding bird than the goose, feeding upon herbs or grain, but preferring the former as the staple of its diet. We know of no wild goose which is not excellent to eat, when obtained at the proper age and in good condition. Wild geese are roasted and served in the same way as wild ducks. A satisfactory combination is made by taking a little bone, some curtilage or tendon for the sake of its gelatine, sufficient fat — to be GAME. 181 supplied, if the meat has none, from white bacon or fresh pork — and plenty of the flesh of whatever constitutes the pate. Pack these closely together, filling the interstices with minced fresh pork or veal, season well, but not in excess; flavor with bay-leaf, chopped shallot or onion, and lemon peel ; with bits of truffle (when possible), hard egg, and button mushrooms interspersed here and there through its substance, and half a tumbler of wine, with a little catsup poured in to pi-event too much drying up. Bake this in a gentle oven, and let it stand at least twenty-four hours before cutting it up. It will keep some tune, especially if untouched, and will be found improved and ripened at the end of three or four days. Roast Hare. Broil the hare slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the flesh, then cover it with slices of fat pork from the neck to the legs. Then roast it for an hour, and serve it with sauce piquante prepared with the crushed liver. A Nice "Way to Pkepare Cold Hare. Remove the flesh from the roast hare, and cut it in strips. After- ward break the bones and cook with them some butter and flour, onions, parsley, thyme, chives, salt, pepper, red wine, and stock broth; boil them down to one-fourth, and having strained the gravy, put the slices of hare into it and serve it up without again boiling it. Roast Rabbit. Rabbits are roasted in the same manner as directed for hare. Rabbit with Herbs. Cut a rabbit in pieces and place it in a stewpan with butter, parsley, chives, mushrooms, bay-leaves, and thyme, chopped fine. When done add a spoonful of flour to thicken it. Venison Chops. Broiled and served with currant jelly are not to be despised. Trim the ends as you would a French lamb chop. 182 GAME. Venison Epicurean. Cut a steak from the leg or a chop from the loin of venison about an inch and a half thick. Put a walnut of butter, salt, and pepper, into a chafing-dish; light the spirit-lamp under it, and when the butter melts put in the chop or steak; let it cook on one side a few minutes, then turn it over, and add a wineglassf ul of sherry or jDort and a tablespoonful of currant jelly. Simmer gently about seven minutes if it is to be eaten rare, and allow twelve minutes' cooking if required well done. Venison Patties. Make a nicely-flavored mince of the remains of cold roast venison; moisten it with a little sherry or gravy, and warm it in a saucepan; fill the patty-shells with the meat and serve, as oyster patties. CHAPTER XII. Sees anh 3cc-crcam0. NJjY the best materials should be used for mak- ing and flavoring ice-cream, and avoid using milk thickened with arrow-root, corn starch or any other farinaceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natural fruits, or the extracts of the same, and sugar of the purest quality, combine to make a perfect ice-cream. In the first place secure a good ice-cream freezer. We would suggest one be secured working with a crank and revolving dash- ers. Next secure an ice-tub not less than eight inches greater in diameter than the freezer. See that it has a hole in the side near the bottom, with a plug, w hich can be drawTi at pleasure, to let off water accumulating from melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood ■ — not metal — with a blade about twelve inches long and four or five inches wide and oval shaped at the end. This is used to scrape off cream which may adhere to the sides of the freezer in the proce^ss of freezing, also for working fruits and flavorings into the cream. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, strong bag. To freeze the cream after it has been flavored, first pound up ice and mix it with a quantity of coarse salt, in the proportion of one- third the quantity of salt to the amount of ice used. Put freezing can in center of tub, taking care that the lid is securely fastened on, and pile the mixed ice and salt around it on inside of tub to within three inches of top. First turn the crank slowly, and as the cream 183 184 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. hardens increase the speed until the mixture is thoroughly con- gealed ^nd the revolving dashers are frozen in. Remove the lid, take out the dashers, cut away the cream which has adhered to the sides and proceed to work the mixture with the spatula until it is smooth and soft to the tongue. Re-insert the dashers, cover the can again, and work the crank until the entire contents are hard and well set. It is now ready to be served. Berry Cream. Any kind of berries may be used for this, strawberries being the nicest. Mash with a potato masher in an earthen bowl, one quart of berries with one pound of sugar; rub it through the colander; add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Very ripe peaches or mashed apples may be used instead of the berries. Burnt Sugar Ice-Cream. Take one-half pound of sugar, burn half of it in a sauce-pan or skillet; stir in sufficient water to bring to a liquid state; add the other sugar with one pint of milk containing four eggs well beaten. Flavor strongly with lemon, proceed as with other ices. Chocolate Ice-Cream. Use three or four ounces of the common unsweetened chocolate to a gallon of cream, or boiled custard. Boil the chocolate in some milk and sweeten to taste; strain it into the cream and flavor with vanilla. Beat the ice-cream to make it bright and rich colored. Melted chocolate cannot be mixed at once in cold cream as it sets And makes trouble. It must be considerably diluted first. Coffee Ice-Cream. To three quarts of pure, sweet cream add one pint of a decoction of very strong clear coffee. Sugar as usual — eight ounces to the quart. Lemon Ice-Cream. This is made with the same proportion of cream and sugar and ©ne lemon; srrate the lemon rind into the sugar} this extracts the ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. lf^"> oil; then add the juice and the raw cream; strain and freeze imme- diately. Lemon cream sours more quickly than any other. ' Peach Ice-Cream. Take one quart of milk, two eggs, sugar to taste, one quart of peaches pared and stoned — mash and add to the custard. Proceed as usual. Pine-Apple Ice-Cream. Take two cans of pine-apples, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of cream (the cream must be nearly frozen, else the pine-apple pulp or syrup, upon being added, will immediately curdle it). Beat all thoroughly and finish freezing. Orange Ice-Cream. Make a custard same as for vanilla; add orange pulp, or simply flavor with orange, if preferred. Strawberry and Raspberry Ice-Cream. Bruise a pint of strawberries or raspberries with two large spoonfuls of fine sugar; add a quart of cream and strain through a sieve and freeze it. If you have no cream, boil a teaspoonful of arrowroot in a quart of milk, and if you like, beat up one egg and stir into it. Vanilla Ice-Cream. One quart of cream, half a pound of sugar, granulated, half a vanilla bean. Boil half the cream with the sugar and bean, then add the rest of the cream; cool and strain it. If extract of vanilla, or any other extract is used, do not boil it, but put it in the cream with the sugar and freeze. Make it strong with the flavoring, as it loses strength with freezing. CocoANiTT Ice-Cream. Same as vanilla, omitting vanilla flavoring, and adding choppoi cocoanut. 186 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. Fkozen Tapioca Custakd. Soak six or seven ounces of tapioca in one quart of milk; wbea soft, boil two quarts of milk sweetened with one and one-fourth pounds of sugar; then add the tapioca and let it cook fifteen min- utes; then stir in two ounces of butter and eight beaten eggs and take the custard immediately off the fire; cool and flavor with vanilla or lemon and freeze like ice-cream; when nearly finished, add one cup of whipped cream and beat well. Frozen Rice Custard. Wash six ounces of rice in several waters and cook it in milk; then proceed as in tapioca custard, using cinnamon or any other flavoring desired. Frozen Sago Custard. Soak the sago in cold milk first, it will then cook in a few minutes; then proceed as in tapioca custard. Water-Ices. These are made with the juices of ripe fruits, sweetened and frozen like ice-cream; but it must be remembered that if the juices are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is therefore generally necessary to test them with an instrument called a saccharometer. This applies equally to ice-creams and all drinks to be frozen; and for water-ices clarified sugar should be used, which may be prepared in the following manner: To a quart of water add three pounds of sugar and half of the white of an egg well beaten up. This should be boiled ten minutes and skimmed. Cherry Water-Ice with Nut Cream. Two freezers will be required. For the cherry ice take tw» quarts of sweet cherries, one quart of water, one and one-half pounds of sugar. Pound the raw fruit in a mortar so as to break the stones and strain the juice through a fine strainer into the freezer. Boil the cherry pulp with some of the sugar and water t» ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 187 extract the flavor from the kernels, and mash that also through the strainer; add to the remainder of water and sugar and freeze. No eggs are needed and only beat the ice enough to mak© it even and smooth. For the nut cream, use one pound of either pecan or hickory-nut meats, three-fourths of a pound of sugar, one quart of rich milk or cream, one tablespoonf ul of burnt sugar for coloring. Pick over the kernels carefully, that there be no fragments of shells to make the cream gritty, then pound them in a mortar with part of the sugar and a few spoonfuls of milk. Only a few can be pounded effectually at a time. Mix the milk with the pulp thus obtained, the rest of the sugar and caramel coloring, enough to make it like coffee and cream, and run it through a strainer into a freezer. Freeze it as usual and beat smooth with a spatula, then pack down with more ice to freeze firm. Line the moulds with cherry ice and fill the middle with the cream, or dish the ice as a border in shallow glasses with the cream piled in the center. Strawberry Water-Icb. To a pound of ripe strawberries and half a pound of currants add a pint of clarified sugar. If desired, a little coloring may be used. The whole must then be strained through a hair sieve and frozen. Raspberry Water-Ice. This may be made the same as strawberry water-ice by merely substituting raspberries for strawberries. Burnt Almond Ice Cream and Orange-Ice. First make the almond candy as follows: Take one pound of ^ugar, three-fourths pound of sweet almonds, two ounces of bitter almonds. Blanch the almonds, split them and put them in a slow oven to dry and acquire a light yellow color; put the sugar in a kettle on the fire, without any water, and stir it until it is all melted and of the color of golden syrup; then put in the hot almonds, stir gently to mix and pour the candy on a platter. When cold, pound the candy quite fine, put it into three pints of rich milk, set it on . 188 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. the fire, and wlien it boils add the beaten yolks of ten eggs. Strain the burnt almond custard thus made into a freezer, and freeze as Usual and beat well. For the orange ice: Take three pints of water, one pound of «ugar, five or six oranges, according to size, juice of one lemon, if the oranges are sweet, whites of four eggs. Make a thick syrup of the sugar and a very little watei*. Peel half the oranges, divide them by their natural divisions and drop the pieces of oranges into the boiling syrup. Grate the yellow peel'of the other three oranges into a bowl and squeeze in the juice, then pour the syrup from the : scalded orange slices also into the bowl through a strainer and keep the slices on ice to be mixed in at the last. Add the water and lemon juice to the orange syrup in the bowl, strain and freeze. Beat in the whipped whites as usual, and when finished stir in the suirared fruit. Use the burnt almond cream and fill with the •orange ice. Biscuit Glaces. To half a pound of powdered sugar add the yolks of four eggs; flavor with vanilla; beat well, then take two quarts of whipped cream and mix with the sugar and yolks; color some of it red and spread on the bottom of paper capsules and fill up with fresh cream. Then put them in a tin box with cover and pack well up on all sides with pounded ice and salt and let stand for two hours; it is then ready for use. Ratepfe Biscuit Cream. Make the same as vanilla; when nearly frozen add one-half pound of ratefEe biscuit and finish freezinar. TuTTi Frutti. When a rich vanilla cream is partly frozen, candied cherries, chopped raisins, chopped citron or any other candied fruit chopped rather fine are added; add about half the quantity of fruit that there is of ice-cream; mold and imbed in ice and salt; or make also f water and one-half pound of sugar, and add the dissolved gela- tine; add the juice of five oranges and one lemon and the whites of two eggs, well beaten. Boil a few minutes and strain through a jelly-bag; turn into molds and set to cool. Any jellies may be colored by using fruit coloring, which may be obtained at the bakeries. Wine Jelly. One box of gelatine dissolved in just water enough to cover it, one pint of wine, one pint of boiling water, one pint of granulated sugar, and juice of three lemons. MOULDINESS. Fruit jellies may be preserved from mouldiness by covering the surface one-fourth of an inch deep with finely pulverized loaf sugar, l^us protected, they will keep in good condition for years. CHAPTER XV. Ulavkctiug. KTEE31IXE before goiiig to marlcet what shall be purchased, aiui in what quantity. This is t^peoially uetnlful when the butcher is to be visittHl. Another rule is to deal at jslioj^s where good articles ouly are sold, and, if i>os- sible, to take your mouey with jou, be<»ause a ready-mouey customer will, as a rule, be the best serveii. It is uot always st\ie to let the butcher, poulterer, fishmonger, or other provisiou dealer, choose for you, because he may be over anxious to sell what is uot in the best condition, or what is from some other cause hardly s;\lable. Kxperienced pei-sons will uot fail to olvserve carefully the quality of what they buy, and they will reflect upou the quantity of bone, gristle or other waste iu it. They will also con- sider the reipiiremeuts of the family and the uses to which they can put what is not consumed as soon ;is cooteil. At the l>utcher s see the meat cut and weigheil and placed ready to be sent home; you will then know what you have bought. Always buy good meat rather than inferior, and if possible from the best parts of the animal. To aid the inexperienced we will now enter somewhat into detail. Beef. — Young and well-fed ox beef is the best. It may be known by the lean being of a fine, smooth or open gniin, and the fot of a yellowish white, ^^'lleu the fat is either a mottled yellow or white, the meat is doubtful. The suet, however, must be very white. Cow beef is inferior, its fat is whiter, the lean closer in the gmin ^and uot of so bright a red. Bull beef has white and shining fat- i»4 MARKETING. 205. cloBe-graincd lean of a dark red, and a Htrongcr smell than other beef. The principal partw arc an follows: Xl,l •hkxV BECTTON OK i,i, 1. Check. 2. Neck or Sticking Piece. 8. Clod. 4. Shin. 6. Shoulder or Leg of Mutton Piece. 6. Chuck KibH. 7. Middle Ribs. 8. Fore Ribs. 9. Brisket. 10. Burlofn. 11. Thin Flank. 12. Rump. 1'i. Aitch-bone. 14. Round or Buttock.. 10. MouHc Bullock. 16. Veiny Pier;e. 17. Thick Flank. 18. Leg. BcHides the above there are the kidneys, heart, tripe, flweetr breads, tongue, and palate. Good beef is more elastic to the touch than that which is old or in bad condition, so that when pressed with the finger the impression will not be permanent. In poor meat, the lean is usually- dark, the fat skinny, and the sinewy portions distinctly shown, especially a horny texture in the ribs. Beef should be perfectly sound, swc(!t and fresh, as taint rapidly spreads, and if frosted it will not cook properly. It is, perhaps, scarcely needful to say, that several of the joints which are enumerated above, are readily and commonly divided by the butcher and sold in portions for the convenience of small families and slender purses. If, at any time^ more is bought than is wanted for present use, care should be taken to let it bo from such jjarts as may be cut into two, the- one for 206 MARKETING. roasting and the other for salting and boiling; or let it be sttcK as may be easily warmed a-fresh, or otherwise presented hot again at A. Rump. B. Mouse Buttock. C. Leg or Hock. D. Buttock or Round. E. Aitch-bone or Top. P. Surloin. G. Fore Ribs. H. Middle Ribs. I. Chuck Rib. J. Neck, Clod, or Sticking Pieca K. Shin. L. Shoulder or Lsg of Mutton Piece. M. Brisket. N. Thin Flank. O. Thick Flank. P. Veiny Piece. table, which will be the case with such parts as are stewed, and such cheap portions as the heart, and cold roasted ox-heart cut into «lices and warmed -in gravy is as good as when first cooked. SECTIONS OF SHEEP, OR LAMB. . 1. Leg. 5. Best end of loin. 2. Shoulder. 6. Best end of neck, 3. Breast. 7. Chump end of loia. 4. Scrag end of neck. 8. Head. MARKETING. 207 Mutton. — Good mutton, of whatever breed, is kno\m at a glance, the ham, dark, bright, crimson red; the fat, white and firm, antl never too deficient in quantity according to the joint. Bad mutton is of an unsightly brownish color, and has a bad smell with a little fat, and that flabby and yellowish, often, but not always, the car- cass looks as if the beast had been devoured by consumptive lean- ness. If you can get a sight of the liver, its state will sometimes tell you tales of the creature's healthf ulness or the reverse. Pork. — Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from his gluttonous habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of it will prob- ably have to pay dearly for their indulgence. It is generally understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. Where it is possible, therefore, it is always safest to obtain pork direct from some farm where it has been fed and killed. When this cannot be done, it should either be purchased from a thoroughly respectable and reliable person or dispensed with altogether. Pork is best in cold weather. It is in season from November to March. It should be avoided during the summer months. The fat should be white and firm, the lean finely grained, and the skin thin and cool. If any kernels are to be seen in the fat, the pig was diseased at the time it was killed. Pork should not be allowed to hang more than a day or two before it is cooked, as it will not keep unless it be salted. If cooked quite fresh, however, it will be hard. The head, heart, liver, etc., should be cooked as soon as possible. Care should be taken that the pork be thoroughly cooked. Veai is best when the animal is from two to three months old. Veal, like all young meat, has a tendency to turn very quickly It is both unpalatable and most unwholesome when it is at all taint<3i., and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats sometimes can, by the use of charcoal. Therefore it ought not to be kept more than two days in summer and four in winter. If eaten quite fresh it is apt ^ be a little tough. 208 MARKETING. If there is any danger of the veal becoming tainted, wash it, an5 put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water till cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest place that can be found. No meat is more generally useful for making soups aa4 gravies than veal. SECTIONS OP CALF. 1. Loin, chump end. 7. Fore knuckle. 8. Loin, best end. 8. Breast, brisket end. B. Neck, best end. 9. Breast, best end. 4. Neck, scrag emd. 10. Blade-boae. 5. Fillet. 11. Head. 6. Hind knuckle. Turkeys. — A young cock-turkey is the best, and may be known by its smooth, black legs and short spurs. The spurs must be closely looked into, because it is an old trick of the dealers to cut and scrape them in order to get rid of old birds as young ones. If in good condition the eyes will be bright and full and the feet soft and pliable; whereas where stale the eyes will be dim and sunken and the feet stiff and dry. The beak of a young turkey is some- what soft, but hard and rigid in an old one. The legs of an old hen-turkey are red and rough. In other respects a hen-turkey may be judged of as a cock-turkey, spurs excepted. Fowls. — A young cock will have short spurs, which will require the same inspection as turkeys. A fine bird will have a smooth comb, a full fat breast, and a large rump. The skin should be delicate and transparent. Pullets are best when about to lay, at which time they have partially formed eggs inside. Fowls with black legs are best roasted. Game birds shoul(J "ilso, be roasted. MAllKETING. 20f> Young Dorking, Spanish and Cochin should be provided for boil- ing. For broth, an old hen will do, if well cooked. Geese. — A young goose will have its beak and feet yellow with a very few bristles about them; but an old bird will have the feet and bill red and bristly. When fresh, the feet are pliable, but stiff and dry when stale. The fat of a young bird is whiter and softer than that of an old bird, and the breast is plump, as is the case with all poultry in good condition; knowing which the dealers have a trick of breaking the breast bones to deceive their custom- ers, and foist upon them old birds for young ones. Ducks. — The feet and legs of a fresh killed duck are pliable and soft, but those of a stale one are stiff and dry. Freshness of the eye is an indication of a fresh bird. A Avild duck has rather small, reddish feet, while those of a tame duck are a d asky yellow, and somewhat large. An old duck should be kept hanging a few days before it is cooked; it will generally be lean aud thin as compared Vith a plump young bird. 14 CHAPTER XVI. Beef, Aitchbone of, to Carve. N carving an aitchbone of beef it is necessary that it should be cut across the grain. Tlie meat ^should be cut of a moderate thickness, and very evenly. Cut the lean and the fat' in one slice, and if more fat is wanted it should be taken horizontally from the side. Before proceeding to serve, a slice of about a quarter of an inch in thickness should be cut from the top, so that the juicy part of the meat may be obtained at once. Brisket of Beef Stewed. Take six pounds of beef, and, before dressing it, rub it over with vinegar and salt; place it in a stewpan with stock or water sufficient to cover it. Allow it to simmer for an hour, skimming it well all the time. Put in six each of carrots, turnips, and small onions, and allow all to simmer until the meat is quite tender, which will require about two hours more. As soon as it is ready the bones should be removed. Boil for a few minutes as much of the gravy as will be required with flour and a little butter, and season it with catsup, allspice and mace. Pour a little of it over the brisket, and send the remainder to the table in a separate dish. Making Tough Steak Tender. Take one teaspoonful of salad oil, two teaspoonfuls of vinegar 210 MEATS. 211 rand a very little Cayenne pepper. Lay the steak upon it and let it remain one hour; then turn it over and let it lie an hour. Then fry •or broil as usual. The vinegar softens the fibre and the oil keeps it soft. Steak may stand over night this way if turned about ten ■o'clock. Pounding steak is a great mistake; it breaks up the fibre, but drives out the juice and destroys much of its nutriment. Beef, Beisket of, to Carve. The accompanying engraving represents the appearance of a brisket of beef ready for the table. There is no difficulty in carving it. The only thing to observe is that it should be cut cleanly along the bones, in the direction indicated by the dot- ted line, with a firm hand, in moderately thick slices. Cut it close down to the bones, so that they may not have a rough and jagged appearance when removed. Broiled Steak. Never put salt on a steak until after it is cooked. After trim- ming on each side equally, dress to taste with sweet fresh butter, pepper and salt, and add, if preferred, a teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Broiled Beefsteak. To cook a good, juicy beefsteak, never pound it, but slash it) several times across each way; have a nice bright fire and broil as quickly as possible, withoiit burning; if the coals blaze from the drippings, sprinkle on a little salt, Avhich will instantly extinguish the flames. Steak should be turned constantly while broiling, and to be rare should not cook over three minutes; butter and salt after taking up. This should be served very hot. Rtdip Steak with Oyster Sauce. Let your oysters give a turn or two with plenty of butter in a frying-pan, then add pepper and salt, a little flour, and the juice of 213 MEATS. half a lemon, with enough water to make up the quantity of sauce you want, stir till the oysters are done, and serve with the steak broiled in the usual way. To Fry Steak, or Cook in Frying Pan. If you have not a broiler, steak may be cooked nearly as well by heating the frying pan very hot and just greasing it with a little butter, or a little of the chopped suet, and lay in the steak and keep turning until sufficiently cooked; then transfer to a hot platter ancj season with salt and pepper, and cover with butter and serve. German Way of Frying Beefsteak. Pound the cut steak a little, salt it and fry quickly with hot lard on both sides; pour off the lard and place the steak on the dish; put into the pan some fresh butter and fry with it some finely cut onions and pour this over the steak. Beefsteak Smothered with Onions. Melt a lump of butter in a frying pan; cover the bottom of the pan with onions sliced very thin; then lay the steak over them. When the onions are fried until they are tender, put the beef on the bottom of the pan and cover it with the onions; add butter or lard as you need it. Liver cooked in this way is nice also. When it is done, lay it on a platter and heap the onions on the meat. A very little gravy made in the pan in which you have cooked the meat and onions is an addition, but make only a little and turn over the meat, seasoning it well with salt and pepper. Beefsteak Pie. '' Cut the steak into pieces an inch long, and stew with the boiae (cracked) in just enough water to cover the meat until it is half done. Line a pudding dish with a good paste. Put in a layer of the beef, with salt and pepper, and a very little chopped onion; then one of sliced boiled potatoes, with a little butter scattered u\jon them, and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all the MEATS. 2i;j gravy in which the meat is stewed, having first thrown away the bone and thickened with flour. Cover with a crust thicker than the lower, leaving a slit in the middle. Ribs of Beef, to Cabve. The rib should be cut in thin and even slices from the thick end towards the thin. This can be more readily and cleanly done, if the carving-knife is first run along between the meat and the end and rib bones. To Roast Ribs of Beef. The best piece to roast is the fore-rib, and it should be hung for two or three days before it is cooked. The ends of the ribs should be sawn off, the outside fat fastened with skewers, and the strong sinew and chime bones removed. The joint should first be placed near the fire, and after a short time it should be drawn back and roasted steadily. Baste freely with clarified drippings at first, as there will not be sufiicient gravy when first put down; keep basting at intervals of ten minutes until done. Care must be taken not to allow it to bum, as it is easily spoiled. Serve with horse-radish sauce. To Roast Sirloin" of Beef. Take out the suet and lay it thickly over the fillet. Tie the flap under the fillet ard make all firm before it is put into the oven. Should vhe oven be very hot place a paper over the meat while yet raw, in which case it will need very little basting; or turn the rib side np toward the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it will take in cooking depends entirely upon the thickness of the joint and the length of time it has been killed. Skim the fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared brown flour and a glass of sherry to the remainder. 214 MEATS. Sirloij: or Beef, to Carve. A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm stroke from end to> end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the cut very clean from A, B to C. Then disengage it from the bone by a horizontal cut exactly to the bone, B to D, using the tip of the knife. Bad carving bears the hand away to the rind of the beef, eventually,, after many cuts, jjeeling it back to the other side, leav- ing a portion of the best of the meat adhering to the bone. Every slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the " ^"^ — ~~q' under side whilst hot, not reckoning it so good cold; but this is a- matter of taste, and so is the mode of- carving it. The best way is •first of all to remove the fat, E, which chops up well to make pud* dings, if not eaten at table. Then the under part can be cut as already described, from end to end, F to G, or downwards as shown, by the marks at H. Beef Balls. Mince very fine a* piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg and lemon peel; mix all together and moisten it with an eg^ beaten; roll it into balls, flour and fry them in boiling fresh dripping. Serve them with fried bread crumbs. Fillet of Beef. This is to be larded and dressed with a brown mushroom sauce. Trim the fat off a tenderloin of beef, and if you are going to dress it for dinner trim off the corners somewhat. It wants to be the shape of a fillet whole. A whole fillet is usually too large for a family dinner. Trim down the loin so it is smaller at each end». MEATS. 215 Save the pieces of meat trimmed off, cut up in bits an inch square and make a stew with a few mushrooms or potatoes. Never by any means throw them away. After the fillet is trimmed lard it by inserting little strips of fat salt pork over the upper surface with a larding needle. After larding lay on a baking-pan with thin slices of salt poi-k under it, and put buttered pa])er over it to prevent burning the pork. Bake or roast it. It is usually served rare; then it should roast fifteen minutes to a pound. If it is to be well done it should roast twenty minutes for each pound. Season when brown, not before, with pepper and salt. A Good a^d Cheap Way to Cook Beef. A cheap dish can be made of a brisket or flank of beef. Cut a slice eight inches long and an inch thick, season highly, spread a stuffing of soaked bread highly seasoned over it, tie it up and lay in water enough to cover, and cook slowly a long time. . This makes a very nice dish and should be served with red cabbage. Cut up the cabbage as for cold slaw. Put in a saucepan one table- spoonful of sugar, me of butter, half a cup of vinegar, half a dozen pepper corns, and half a dozen cloves; then put in the cab- bage, cover tight and set on the back of the stove and let it steam an hour, when it will be tender. The beef may also be served with red beets, boiled till tender without breaking, peeled and laid around the dish of meat. A nice way to bake beef is to put in the pan under it a bed of vegetables and scraps of pork, a tablespoonful of carrot, turnip, sprigs of parsley, a half dozen cloves and a half dozen pepper corns; add a bay-leaf, if you wish, and a teaspoonful of onion. You will find that all these will give a nice flavor not only to the meat but also to the gravy made from the drippings. Beep a la Mode. Take a round of beef, remove the bone from the middle, also all the gristle and tough parts about the edges. Have ready half a pound of fat salt pork, cut into strips as thick and long as your 216 MEATS. finger. Prepare a nice dressing the same as for stuffing a turkey. With a thin sharp knife make perpendicular incisions in the meat about half an inch apart, thrust into them the pork, and work ir with them some of the dressing. Proceed thus until the meat is thoroughly plugged.- Put it into a baking pan with a little water at the bottom; cover tightly and bake slowly four hours; then uncover, and spread the rest of the dressing over the top, and bake until a nice brown. After taking up, thicken the gravy and pour o\ er the beef. It should be sliced horizontally. Is good either hot or cold. Pounded Beef. Boil a shin of twelve pounds of meat until it falls readily from the bone; pick it to pieces; mash gristle and all very fine; pick out all the hard bits. Set the liquor away; when cool, take off all the fat; boil the liquor down to a pint and a half. Then return the meat to it while hot; add pepper and salt and any spice you choose. Let it boil a few times, stirring all the while. Put into a mold DT deep dish to cool. Use cold and cut in thin slices for tea, or warm it for breakfast. Beef Coquettes. Use cold roast beef; chop it fine; season with pepper and salt; add one-third the quantity of bread crumbs, and moisten with a little milk. Have your hands floured; rub the meat into balls, dip it into beaten egg, then into fine pulverized cracker, and fry in but- ter; garnish with parsley. Deviled Beep. Take slices of cold roast beef, lay them on hot coals, and broilf season with pepper and salt, and serve while hot, with a small lumf of butter on each piece. Beef Sausages. To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one and one-half pounds of suet, and chop very fine; season with sage in powder, allspice, pepper and salt; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meal into them. MEATS. 217 Beef av Gratin". Take cold beef, either boiled or roasted, and cut it in thin slices, Urease a tin pan with butter, dust with bread crumbs, put in a little ■chopped parsley, and lay on the slices of beef. Put salt, pepper, and parsley on top, dust with bread crumbs, drop on lemon-juice, ftnd a little broth, just to cover the bottom of the pan, and place it in the oven. Beef Heart. Wash it carefully and stuff it nicely with dressing as for turkey; roast it about one and a half hours, and serve with the gravy, which should be thickened with some of the stuffing. It is very flice hashed. Dried Beej' in Cream. Shave your beef very fine; pour over it boiling water; let it «tand for a few minutes; pour this off and pour on good rich cream ; let it come to a boil. If you have not cream, use milk and butter, and thicken with a very little flour; season with pepper, and serve on toast or not, as you like. Beef Omelette. Three pounds of beefsteak, three-fourths of a pound of suet, chopped fine, salt, pepper, and a little sage, three eggs, six Boston crackers, rolled; make into roll and bake. Broiled Beef Tongue. Put a fresh tongue on the fire w'th just cold water enough to cover it, and with it a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices of lemon, some black pepper, salt and a little garlic. Let it simmer gently for about two hours till quite tender. Skin and trim it. Either serve it whole or cut it in slices, and arrange in a ring with the following thick sauce in the center: Strain the liquor in which ihe tongue was cooked (this should be reduced by simmering to a mere gravy) ; brown a large tablespoonf ul of flour in a good sized piece of butter; braize two or three cloves of garlic, and let them 218 MEATS. steam a little while in the browning; then add the strained gravy by degrees, stirring it quite smooth. Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar; and whether it be served whole or sliced, dish the sauce with the tongue. If garlic is objected to, make a sauce of grated horse-radish, a carrot bruised fine, capers and a little wine. Gar- nish with lemon slices and parsley. To Boil Beef. Put fresh beef into boiling water (unless you wish to make soup, then it should be put into cold water) and bring quickly to a boil, then set on back part of the stove and simmer gently till done. Corned beef, if very salt, should be soaked over night, then put into lukewarm, not boiling, water. Simmer from the time of boil- ing till it is served up. Skim the pot thoroughly and turn the meat tT/ice during the simmering. The meat will be much better if allowed to cool in the liquor in Avhich it is cooked. Tongue Roasted. Parboil a tongue that has been salted about ten days; roast, baste with red wine, and cover it at last with butter. Serve with a rich gravy and sweet sauce. Tetpe. This may be served in a tureen, stewed tender with milk and onions, or fried in bits dipped in butter. In both the above ways serve melted butter for sauce. Or cut the thin parts in oblong bits and stew in gravy; thicken with butter rolled in a very little flour, and add a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Or boil it tender in milk, and serve in milk-white sauce. Teipe a la Lyonnaise with Tomatoes. This economical dish, which is in reach of every family, is also ■very fine. Take two pounds of dressed and boiled tripe, cut into small strips two inches long and put into a saucepan. Parboil and drain off the first water, chop a small onion fine, and let all stew twenty minutes; add half a cup of thickening and then stir in half MEATS. 219 a can of tomatoes; season with salt and jjepper. This dish has become very popular in all the hotels throughout the country. Bullock's Heart, Roasted. Wash the heart in several waters, clean the blood carefully from the pipes, and put it to soak in vinegar and water for two hours or more. Drain it and fill it either with ham forcemeat or sage and onion stuffing. Fasten it securely, tie it in a cloth, put into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Take off the cloth and roast the heart while hot, basting it plentifully with good dripping for two hours longer. Serve with good brown gravy and currant jelly. The stewing may be omitted and the heart simply roasted for three or four hours, but the flesh will not then be so tender. Calf's Heaet, Roasted. Wash the heart very clean, soak it in vinegar and water, fill it with a forcemeat made of four ounces of bread crumbs, two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of finely-rainced lemon rind, and a little salt and Cayenne. Fasten the heart securely and bake for two hours. Serve it with good melted butter, mixed with a tablespoonful of- lemon-juice or vin- egar. A calf's heart is improved by partially boiling before it is roasted. Calf's Heaet, Fried. Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices about a quarter of an Inch thick and fry these in a little hot dripping or^butter. About five minutes before they are done, put a slice of bacon into the pan for each slice of heart and when they are sufficiently cooked, serve on a hot dish and cover each piece of heart with a slice of bacon. Boil two or three tablespoonfuls of thin fiour and water in the pan in which the meat was fried. Season it with pepper and salt; add one tablespoonful of red currant jelly and serve as hot as possible.. The elices of heart will fry in fifteen minutes. '220 MEATS. Sheep's Heart, Baked. "Wash two or three sheeps' hearts in lukewarm water, fill them with veal forcemeat, and skewer them securely. Fai^'ten a rasher of fat bacon around each, place them in a deep dish, and with them a little good stock, and an onion stuck with two cloves. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours; draw off the gravy; thicken with a little flour and buttei*, and season it with salt and pepper and a tablespoonf ul of mushroom or walnut catsup. Put the hearts on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and send red currant jelly with them to the table. Sweetbreads. Sweetbreads should be chosen as fresh as possible, as they very ■quickly spoil. There are two sorts — heart sweetbreads and throat sweetbreads. The heart sweetbreads are the best. In. whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be soaked^ in luke- warm water for a couple of hours. They should then be put into boiling water and simmer gently for five or ten minutes, according to size, and then taken up and laid in cold water. Sweetbreads are •quite as frequently employed as ingredients in sundry made dishes as served alone, and as they do not possess a very decided natural flavor, they need to be accompanied by a highly seasoned sauce, or they will taste rather insipid. They are in full season from May to August. Sweetbreads Fried. Prepare them as usual. Cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides. -Drain them, and then dish on toast. Serve with cucumber sauce. Sweetbreads Baked. After preparing the sweetbreads as above, brush them over in '•every part with beaten egg, roll them in bread crumbs, sprinkle •^arified butter over them, and bread-crumb them again. Put them MEATS. 22 L in a baking-tin with about two ounces of butter, and bake in a well- heated oven; baste them till they are done enough and brightly browned. Take as many slices of hot toast as there are sweetbreads, put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon them, pour brown gravy round, but not over them, and serve immediately. Sweetbreads Broiled. Take moderate-sized sweetbreads and prepare them in the usual way. Stew them in good stock till they are done enough. Then drain them and press them between two dishes till they are cold. Split them in halves and trim them neatly; brush them over with butter, and broil them over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a plate Avith clarified butter on it near the gridiron and keep dipping the sweetbreads in it, turning them frequently. When they are brightly browned all over they are done enough. Dish the slices in a circle, and send brown sauce, flavored with lemon-juice, to table in a tureen. Sweetbreads and Cauliflowers. Take four large sweetbreads and two cauliflowers. Split open the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak them awhile in luke- warm water; put them into a saucepan of boilhig Avater, and set them to boil ten minutes. Afterwards lay them in a pan of cold water to make them firm. The parboiling is to Avhiten them. Wash, drain and quarter the cauliflowers. Put them in a broad stewpan with the sweetbreads on them; season with a little Cayenne and a little nutmeg and add water to cover' them. Put on the lid of the pan and stew one houi-. Take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and roll it in two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this with a cup of milk to the stew, and give it one boil up and no more. Serve hot, in a deep dish. This stew will be found delicious. Tomato Sweetbreads. Cut up a quarter of a peck of fine ripe tomatoes; set them over the fire, and let them stew in nothing but their own juice till they" •222 MEATS. go to pieces — then strain them through a sieve; have ready four or five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely and soaked in warm water. Put them into a stewpan with the tomato juice, and a little salt and Cayenne; add twoorthreetablespoonfulsof butter rolled in flour. Set the saucepan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads till done. A few minutes before you take them up, stir in two beaten yolks of eggs. Serve the sweetbreads in a deep dish, with the tomato poured over them. Kidneys, Broiled or Roasted. Split the kidneys in two without separating the halves; peel oft the thin outer skin. Season them with salt and pepper; broil them, laying the flat sides first on the gridiron, to keep the gravy in; or, fry them the same. Or place them with the flat side upwards in a baking dish and put them in the oven. When done, serve in the same diah in which they were baked. Immediately before serving, put on each half -kidney a piece of butter and a little finely-chopped parsley. Stewed Kidneys. Split ehe kidneys and peel off the outer skin as before; slice them thin on a plate; dust them with flour, pepper and salt; brown some flour in butter in a stewpan; dilute with a little water; mix smooth and in it cook the sliced kidneys. Let them simmer, but not boil. They will cook in a very short time. Butter some slices of toast and lay on a hot dish and pour over it the stewed kidneys, gravy and alL Fried Liver. Cut one pound of liver into slices one-fourth inch in thickness, and dredge some flour over them. Take an equal number of slices of bacon; fry the bacon first, and when it is done enough remove from the fat and place them on a hot dish. Fry the slices of liver in the same fat, and when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon ..and liver in a circle, a slice of each alternately. Pour the fat from dhe pan and dredge a little flour into it; add a quarter of a pint of MEATS. 223 broth, a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. Stir smoothly together until the sauce boils, and pour into the dish with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If liked, a tablespoonful of fine\y-minced gherkins or pickled walnuts may be added to the sauce. Fried Liveb, No. 2. Take one egg to one pound of liver; cut the liver thin, scald with hot water and wipe dry; beat up the egg, dip the slices of liver into the egg, then into powdered cracker, and fry brown. Roast Quarter of Lamb. Trim the joint and skewer three or four slices of bacon securely to the outer side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over the inner part and strew upon it a thick covering of finely-grated bread crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and a little finely-minced parsley. Put in the oven, and when nearly done remove the bacon and baste the meat with the beaten yolk of egg mixed with the gravy, throw some more bread crumbs over it and let it remain until nicely browned. If liked, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it and serve with mint sauce. Lamb Chops, Fried. Cut a loin or neck of lamb into chops from half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Dip each one into beaten egg and after- wards into bread crumbs, flavored as follows: Mix thi'ee ounces of finely-grated bread crumbs with a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt- spoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley and a quarter of a teaspoonful of finely-mixed lemon rind. Fry the chops in good drippings until lightly browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish and garnish with slices of lemon or crisped parsley. 224 MEATS. , ♦ Lamb Chops, Broiled, Cut the chops about half an inch thick, trim them neatly, remov- ing the superfluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire and brown them nicely on both sides. Season them with salt and pepper, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, asparagus, green pease, or spinach, are usually- served with lamb chops. Stewed Lamb with Gkebn Pease. Take two pounds of lamb, put it into a etewpan and cover witb cold water; after removing the scum add a little pepper and salt, then let the meat stew for an hour and a half or nearly two hours;, now add some boiling water (to make gravy); add your grees?' pease (half a peck before shelling); let these cook about twenty minutes; stir up a tablespoonful of flour into naif a cup of milk and mix with the stew. Let this cook two minutes. Lamb Cutlets. Trim the slices free from fat, beat up the yolk of a.n egg with rasped bread or crackers, seasons with pepper and salt, dip in '^.he cutlets and fry in butter gently, until thoroughly done. / Boiled Breast of Mutton. Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the fat; flatten it on the kneading-board, and cover the surface thinly with a forcemeat made of bread crumbs, minced savory herbs, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt and an egg. The forcemeat should not be spread too near the edge, and when rolled, the breast should be tied securely, to keep the forcemeat in its place. If gently boiled, and ser\'ed hot, it will be generally liked. Serve with good cape/" sauce. Haunch of Mutton a la Venison. Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown sugar; rub it well into the mutton, which should be placed in a deep dish MEATS. 225 for four days, and basted three or four times a day with the liquor that drains from it; then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of a pound more of sugar, mixed with a little (common salt, and hang it up, haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In winter it should be kept two or three weeks and roasted in paste, like ven- 3on. Serve with currant jelly. The paste (made with flour and water) should be removed fifteen minutes before serving. Breast of Mutton with Pkase. Cut about two pounds of the breast of mutton into small square pieces. Put them into a stewpan with about an ounce of butter, and brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth or water, and stew for an hour. Remove the meat from the stewpan, and clear tho gravy from fat. Put the meat into a clean stewpan, add an onion or shallot sliced finely, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper and salt, and strain the gravy over all. Stew for another hour, then put in a quart of young pease, and serve in about twenty minutes. Macaroni may be used in the place of pease. Mutton Curried. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and chop fine, or pound in a mortar four onions; add the onions to the butter with an ounce of curry powder, a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream; stir until smooth. Fry two pounds of mutton — cut in neat pieces without bone — to a light brown color. Lay the meat into a clean stewpan, and jjour the curry mixture over; simmer until the meat is done. Mutton Chops. First select well-fed mutton, but not too fat, and get the chops evenly cut; if not, beat them into shape with the chopper. Not more than one-third of the chop should be fat. Put an ounce of butter or lard into the frying-pan; when it is entirely melted seize the chop at the bone end with a fork, and dip it for half a minute into the fat, then turn on one side, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 15 226 MEATS. and if liked, finely-cliopped shallot or onion, and savory herbs. In three minutes turn, and serve the other side the same; equalize the cooking by frequent turning, but give the chop altogether not more than ten minutes. A piece of garlic, if the flavor be approved, may be rubbed across the dish when hot, or it may be rubbed iightly across the chop. Serve with plain or maitre d'hotel butter. Mutton Cutlets a la Minute. The mutton for these cutlets should be cut from the middle of the leg, and sliced thin; season slightly with salt and pepper. Fry the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it crisp, turning it often. Let the cutlets be kept warm in the oven while the gravy is pre- paring. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped with a shallot, a sprig or two of parsley and thyme, minced fine. Stew these in the butter for a few minutes, and season with salt and pepper; add flour «tnd \7r.ter, strain and serve round the cutlets. Mutton Cutlets and Pueee of Potatoes. Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, mash them smootB, put them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, two or three tablespoonfuls of cream or broth, pepper and salt; make them hot, and pile them in the center of a liot dish. The cutlets may be bread-crumbed and fried, or, if preferred, broiled and served round the puree. •Boiled Leg of Mutton, Cut off the shank bone, put it into a large stewpan or kettle, with as much boiling water as will cover it. When restored to its boil- ing state, skim the surface clean, and set the stewpan back and allow the contents to simmer until done. Allow for a leg of mut- ton of nine or ten pounds, from two and a half to three hours from the time it boils. Boil very young turnips far a garnish, also boil larger turnips to mash. Place the young turnips, which should be of equal size, round the dish witli the mutton and send the mashed ones to the table separately. Melted butter, with capers addod. MEATS. 227 should accompany the dish. The liquor from the boiling may be converted into good soup at a trifling expense. Mutton Kebbobed. Take a loin of mutton; joint well; take the following dressing and put between each joint: Two tablespoonfuls chopped parsley, a little thyme, a nutmeg grated, a cup of bread crumbs; mix well with two eggs; roast one hour. If there is a large flap to the loin, some of the dressing may be put in and then skewered securely. Leg of Mutton, To Carve. The leg of mutton comes to the table as shown in Fig. 1. Take the carving fork, as usual, in your left hand, and plant it firmly in the joint, as shown by A, in Fig. 1, placing it rather over to the other side of the joint, and drawing the leg over toward you on the dish about one-third, which brings the position of the fork from A to B. Cut straight down across the joint at the line marked C, not quite to the bone. Make the second cut a little on the slant, as shown in D, and take the piece out; continue cutting from each ♦'ide slantingly as the line marked D, either from the thick or the knuckle end, ac- cording to the taste of the per- son to be helped. A very small piece of the fat should be given with each slice of meat to those who like it. The knuckle, if any one asks for it, is first cut off in a lump, as shown by the circular line at F, and after- wards in slices. Mutton should be cut thick, but it should not be «ut to the bone; the slice in the centre should not penetrate so far 228 MEATS. as the circular kernel of fat found there, and called the " pope's eye " which is generally considered best to leave for hashing. The back of a leg of mutton is not generally cut until cold, when it is best sliced lengthwise, as shown in Fig. 2 ; the meat is still cut thick, but not quite so thick as in the cuts previously described. Cold mutton should be served with mashed potatoes and pickles, a part called H the "crump bone" in a leg of mutton, which may be removed by a circulai cut from H to J in Fig. 2; it is usually relished cold. Fig. 2 shows the joint when turned three parts over, held by the fork as previously described, and the dotted line at J indicates the direc- tion of the first cut. Roast Leg of Mutto^t. Get a leg of about eight pounds, which has hung at least a week, weather allowing. During hot summer weather this joint gets quickly tainted. Rub it lightly with salt, and put it at once into* a hot oven for the first few minutes, then allow the oven to cool, and roast more slowly until done. Baste continually with a little good dripping until that from the joint begins to flow. When within twenty minutes to being done, dredge it with flour, and baste with butter or dripping; and when the froth rises serve on a hot dish. Make a gravy and pour round the meat, not over it. MuTTOx Cutlets with Provincale Sauce. Use one-fourth of a medium-sized onion, tablespoonful of butter; put over the fire and gradually add a spoonful of flour, cup of MEATS. 229 water, one-half cup thyme, season with pepper and salt and stir constantly; add the yolks of two raw eggs and cook until about as thick as cream. This sauce can be used on cold meats, or in cook- ing raw meat. When used in cooking cutlets or other meats, the meats should be very slightly cooked on both sides in a hot skillet, then have a pot of fat large enough for the meat to swim in. Dip the cutlets in the sauce and put them in the boiling fat. Take them out and roll in cracker dust and bread crumbs; put them back, and do this occasionally until the meat floats on top of the Fat. They are then done. Pork — To Keep Frksh in Summee. Take pork, when killed in the early part of the winter, and let it lie in pickle about a week or ten days, or until just sufficiently «alted to be palatable; then slice it up and fry it about half or two- thirds as much as you would for present eating; now lay it away in its own grease, in jars properly covered, in a cool place, as you would lard. Re-fry when ready to use. PoRK, TO Cook. Large pork, such as portions of the shoulder, loin, or spare-rib, of large bacon hogs, may be cooked as follows: Rub the joint ■with pepper and salt, and put it into a large saucepan with a closely- fitting lid. When nearly done, add two or three onions and carrots, with half a dozen sticks of celery, four sage leaves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of marjoram and thyme, and as much stock or water as mil cover the whole. Let the liquors boil up; skim carefully; then set back and simmer gently for three or four hours, according to size of joint. When the pork is done enough, lift it out, put the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a p rtion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the pork. When the pork is removed from the table, trim it neatly and place on a clean dish to be eaten cold, or thicken the rest of the gravy and pour over the meat to be warmed over. 230 MEATS. Pork, Belly Rolled and Boiled. Salt a belly of pork — young meat is the best — by mixing a ealt- spoonful of powdered saltpetre with two tablespoonfuls of common salt, sprinkle the mixture over the pork, and let it lie for three days. When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay it, skin downwards, on the table, remove the bones, and cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into thin slices. Sprinkle over these a little powdered mace and pepper. Roll the meat tightly and bind securely with tape. Put it into a. saucepan with two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly to a boil, skim carefully, draw it to the back of stove, and simmer gently till the meat is done enough. Put it between two dishes, lay a weight upon it, and leave it until quite cold. The bandages should not be removed until the meat is ready to be served. Time to simmer, half an hour per pound. Pork Brawn. Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and two pig's feet. Clean and wash them, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of salt over them, and let them drain until the following day; dry them with a soft cloth and rub into them a powder made of six ounces of common salt, six ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre, and three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper. Dry the powder well, and rub it into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and feet; turn them over and rub them again every day for ten days. Wash the pickle from them, cut off the ears, and boil the feet and ears an hour and a half; then put in the head and tongue, cover with cold water, and boil until the meat will leave the bones. Take them up, drain, cut the meat into small pieces; first remove all bones, and skin the tongue. Season the mince with a teaspoonful of white pepper, three saltspoonfuls of powdered mace, one saltspoonful each of powdered nutmeg and Cayenne. Stir all well together, press the meat while warm into a brawn tin, and lay a heavy weftrhfr POEK. 1. Used for ham", roasts and corned pork. 2. Ilind-loiu — Used for roasts, baked dishes and chops. 3. Fore-loin. — Used the same as No. 2. 4. Spare-rib. — Used for roasts, chops and stews. 5. Shoulder. — Used to smoke, roast or corn. 6. Flank and brisket. — Used for smoked bacon, and for pickling in salt. Venison. 1. Shoulder. — Used for roasts. 2. Fore loin. — Used for roasts and steaks. 3. Hind-loin. — Used for steaks, roasts or stews. 4. Breast. — Used for stewing and baking. 5. Neck. — Used for soups. 232 MEATS. on the lid. Put it in a cool place until the following day; dip the mold in boiling water, turn the brawn out, and serve with vinegar and mustard. Pork Chops, Broiled, Cut the chops rather less than half an inch thick. Have a clear fire; make the gridiron hot before putting the chops on it; pepper the chops, and when nearly done sprinkle salt, and a little powdered sage over them. Let them be done through, turn frequently, and serve hot. Tomato sauce eats well Avith pork chops. Pork Chops, Fried. Cut pork chops a half an inch in thickness; trim them neatly; sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, put the chops in it and fry them until they are thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered sage may be sprinkled over them before serving. Send apple sauce to table with them. Pork Cutlets, Broiled. Pork cutlets are best taken from the neck or fore loin of small dairy-fed pork, not very fat. Neatly trim them. Score the skin at regular intervals and flatten the cutlets with a cutlet-bat. Brush them over with oil, season with salt and pej^per, and place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire. Turn them occasionally, that they may be equally browned on both sides, and let them be thoroughly cooked. Put them on a hot dish, and send tomato, piquant or any appropriate sauce to table with them. Leg of Pork, Good as Goose. Parboil a leg of pork and take off the skin. Make a stuffing as follows: Mince two ounces of onion very finely; mix with it half a chopped apple, four ounces of bread crumbs, half a dozen chopped sage leaves, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Make a slit in the knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and fasten securely. Put the pork into the oven and baste liberally. Half an hour before it is taken MEATS. 2;;:j np, sprinkle over it a savory powder made of two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs mixed with one tablespoouful of ]>owdere->exoellent pie. MEATS. 237 BoTfTCD Ham; Fine Substitute for Turkey. Take a good salted but unsmoked bain, remove the bone so as to ^ leave the meat as solid as possible. In place of the bone put dressing made same as for turkey, and bake. It is good hot or cold. Baked Ham. Make a thick paste of flour (not boiled) and cover the ham witk it, bono and all; put in a pan on a spider or two muffin rings, or anything that will keep it an inch from the bottom, and bake in a hot oven. If a small ham, fifteen minutes for each pound; if large, twenty minutes. The oven should be hot when put in. The paste forms a hard crust around the ham and the skin comes off with it. Try this and you will never cook a ham any other way. Smoked Meat on Toast. Take a cold smoked tongue or ham that has been well boiled, , and grate it with a coarse grater or mince it fine, mix it with cream and beaten yolk of egg, and let it simmer' over the fire. Prepare some nice slices of toast, butter them rather slightly, lay them in a flat dish that has been heated over the fire, and cover each slice with the meat mixture, which should be spread on hot. Place on the table in a covered dish, for either breakfast or supper. Ham and Eggs. Cut the ham into thin slices and broil, and spread over it a little butter. Poach the eggs in salted water and lay neatly upon the ham. Boiled Ham. Soak twenty-four hours; put into a pot with cold water and boil gently for five or six hours; take it off the fire and let it remain in the water until cold. Peel off tl)e skin and sprinkle with bread or cracker crumbs, and brown in the ovea. Slice very thin for the . table. -238 MEATS. Ham Balls. Take one-half cup of bread crumbs and mix with two eggs well beaten; chop fine some bits of cold boiled ham and mix with them. Make into balls and fry. Ham Garnishing and Ornamenting. The usual way of finishing a ham, when it is not glazed, is to >j^*^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ dredge bread raspings all over Remove the rind by taking hold of the thick end first. Trim it neatly, put it in the oven for a few minutes; and press a cloth over it to dry it; brush it over with a paste brush dipped in glaze (a strong clear gravy boiled down as thick as syrup). To melt the glaze, put the jar which contains it into a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Brush the ham with two or three • coats. Collared Breast of Veal. Bone a breast of veal; lay it on the table and spread on it a thick layer of oyster forcemeat {See oyster /orcemeat) ; roll the veal as tightly as possible, and bind it with a tape. Put it into boiling water; let it boil up once; skim the liquor carefully; set the sauce- pan back and simmer the contents gently until done; put the bones into a separate saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt; let them sirara'?r till th«j liquor is strong and pleasantly flavored; strain it, thicken with a little flour and butter, and stir into it two or three tablespoonfuls ■of thick cream, or, if milk has to be used, beat into it the yolk of MEATS. 239 an egg. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. This dish may be garnished with forcemeat balls, and with the sweetbreads cut into slices, egged, and bread-crumbed and fried; or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be used instead. The meat may be baked instead of boiled, and then a little weak stock should "be put into the pan with it, and it should be basted frequently. Boiled Breast of Veal. If the sweetbread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water for a couple of hours; then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a saucepan, with boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, and care- fully remove the scum as it rises; add a handful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Draw it back, and then simmer gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley sauce over it. Send boiled bacon to the table on a separate dish. The sweetbread may, of course, be dressed separately. Ragout op Beeast op Veal. Take off the under bone, and put the veal into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover it; let the liquor boil up, then add a large carrot, sliced, three onions, a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, the thin rind of a lemon, and pepper and salt; skim the gravy and simmer it gently until the veal is quite tender- Thicken the gravy till it is of the consistency of sauce, and stir into it the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Put the veal into a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with savory forcemeat balls and slices of lemon. Roasted Breast op Veal. If the sweetbread is retained, skewer it to the back; season and cover with a buttered pajier. Put it into a moderate oven and baste liberally till it is done. When it is roasted about an hour and a half, remove tlie paper, flour the joint and let it brown. Serve on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. Garnish with sliced 240 MEATS. lemon. Forcemeat balls may be served with the veal and mnsh- room sauce sent to the table with it. Time, twenty minutes to the pound. Bubble and Squeak of Veal. Take the remains of cold veal; cut the meat into neat slices; fiy them in hot fat; put them where they will keep hot. Take some boiled spinach, fry this, also, and when it is quite hot, pile it on a dish and arrange the pieces of meat around it. Send tomato or any kind of piquant sauce to table with it. Veal Cake. Butter a plain earthenware dish or mold ; fill it with alternate layers of hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham, minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly and beaten to a smooth paste. Pour a spoonful or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, cover the pan closely and bake in a gentle oven. When done enough, press firmly into the mold, put a plate with a weight upon it, and let it remain untouched until cold. Turn it out, garnish with parsley, and serve for luncheon or supper. Time to bake, about one hour. Veal Scallop. Chop fine some cold veal, and put a layer in the bottom of a pudding dish, and season with pepper and salt. Next put a layer of finely powdered crackers, and strew some bits of butter over it and wet with a little milk; then more veal, seasoned as before, and another round of cracker crumbs with butter and milk. When the dish is full, Avet well with gravy or broth, and spread over all a thick layer of crackeiv seasoned with salt, wet into a paste with milk and 8 beaten egg or two. and stick bits of butter thickly over it, and cover and bake a halt or tnree quarters of a hour; then remove the cover and brown nicely Calf's Head, Boiled. Take a ealf'ft head, cut it in two, and take out the brains; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in warm water for a MEATS. 241 quarter of an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, and when the water comeft to the boil, skim carefully; season when nearly- done. Half a head, without the skin, will require from an hour and a half to two hours. It must stew gently till tender. If you wish it full-dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather. Powder it with a season- ing of finely-minced or dried and powdered winter savory, thyme or sage, parsley, pepper and salt, and bread crumbs, and brown in the oven; when dry, pour melted butter over. You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon. Calf's Brains a la Ravigote. Wash the brains in several waters, and free them from skin and fibre; boil them for ten minutes in salt and water mixed with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and when they are firm, cut them in slices, dip them in a batter, and fry them to a light brown. Place them in a circle on a hot dish with a little fried parsley in the centre, and fiend ravigote sauce (^See Savory Sauces) to table with them. 16 CHAPTER XVII. iltu5l)room0. LTHOUGH mushrooms arc caton raw with salt and dry bread, the true flavor of mushrooms is greatly heightened })y cooking; and cook them how you may — a broil, a stew, or a fry, M'ith the simple addition of butter, salt, and pepx)er, they are excellent. There is one rule that should always be observed in what- ever mode they are cooked, and that is that they should be served up quickly and hot. Mushrooms may be either stewed, boiled, fried, or as a soup, prepared in the same manner as oysters. They are also used to flavor game and soups, meat gravies, sauces and catsups. The best mushrooms grow on uplands, or in high, open fields where good i)ure air is found. The following modes of cooking mushrooms may prove useful : Mushrooms au Geatin. Take twelve large mushrooms about two inches in diameter, pare the stalks, wash, and drain the mushrooms on a cloth; cut off jind chop the stalks. Put in a quart stewpan an ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour; stir over the fire for two minutes; then add one pint of broth; stir till reduced to half the quantity. Drain the- chopped stalks of the mushrooms thoroughly in a cloth; put them in the sauce with three tablespoonfuls of choppeil and washed 842 MUSHROOMS. 2-43 parsley, one tablespoonful of chopped and washed whalot, two pinches of salt, a small pinch of pepper; reduce on a brisk fire for eight minutes, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a saute pan; set the mushrooms in, the hollow part upwards; fill them with the fine herbs, and sprinkle over them lightly a tablespoonful of raspings; put in a brisk oven for ten minutes and serve. Mushrooms a la Provencale. Take mushrooms of good size; remove the stems and soak them in olive oil; cut up the stems with a clove of garlic and some pars- ley; add meat of sausages, and two yolks of eggs to unite them; dish the mushrooms, and garnish them with the fo(rcemeat; sprinkle them with fine oil, and dress them in an oven, or in a four d* campagne. Mushrooms a la Creme. Trim and rub half a pint of button mushrooms, dissolve two ounces of butter rolled in flour in a stewpan, then put in the mush- rooms, a bunch of parsley, a teaspoonf ul of salt, half a teaspoonful each of white pepper and of powdered sugar, shake the pan round for ten minutes, then beat up the yolks of two eggs, with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and add by degrees to the mushrooms; ia two or three minutes you can serve them in the sauce. Baked Mushrooms. Peel the tops of twenty mushrooms; cut off a portion of the stalks, and wipe them carefully with a piece of flannel, dipped in salt; lay the mushrooms in a tin dish, put a small piece of butter on the top of each, and season them with pepper and salt. Set the •dish m the oven, and bake from twenty minutes to half an hour. When done, arrange them high in the centre of a very hot dish, pour the sauce round them and serve quickly and as hot as yoa possibly can. Breakfast Mushrooms. Clean a dozen or so of medium size; place two or three ounces of nice, clean beef-drippmg m the frying pan, and with it a table- 214 MUSilliOOMS. spoonful or more of nice Ijccf gravy. Scl tlic p.'ui on ;i gentle fire, and as the (Irij)ping lueltH place in tlie niiislirooins, adding salt and pepper to taste. Fn a few ininutes they will be cooked, and being Hoaked in the gravy and served upon a hot i)late, will form a ca[)ital dish. In lluf absence of gravy, a soupcon of " extractuni carnis " may Iw. substituted. CURUIKI) MusimooMS. I'eel and remov(! the stems from a dish of full-grown nnishrooms, sprinkle with salt, and add a very little butter; stew them gently in a litthi good gravy or stock. Add four tablespoon fuls of cream, and oiu' teaspoonful of" curry })owder, j)reviously well mixed with two tcaspoonfids of wheat flour; mix carefully, and sei-ve on a hot dish, with hot toast and hot plates atten Tamul word for "meat." The large horse mushroom, whcTi half or three j)arta Ijrovvn, and currii'd in this fashion, will be found to be delicious. MUSIIUOOMK KN CaISSIC. I*eel the jnushrooms lightly, and cut them into pieces. Put them into cases of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, parsley, green onions, and shalots (^hopped uj), salt and ]>epper. Dress them OD the gridiron ovi'r a gentle (ire, and serve in the cases. MiTsuiiooM CAi'Kur. Mushroom catsu]) is more highly esteenu'd and more generally useful than any other. It. is best when made of large mushroom flaps, fully ripe, fresh, and ])erfectly dry — that is, gathered during dry Aveatlu^r. If this point is not attended to the catsuj) will not keeji. Do not, wash nor skin the mushrooms, but carefully remove any decayed, dirty, or worm-eaten i)ortions; cut off about half an inch from the end of the stalks, then break the rest into small pieces, ])ut them into an earthen jar, and strew three-fourths of a pound of salt amongst two gallons of mushrooms, scattering the liMger portions on top. Li-t them remain all night, and the next MUSHROOMS. 245 day Btir thorn gontly with :i wooden Hpoon, and repeat this three tinicK :i (hiy for two days. At tlic end of that time pu* the jar into a cool oven for half an hour, then strain the liquid whieh Hows from th(Mn through a coarse eloth, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. Do not squeeze the niushrooitis. To every quart of the liquid put a quarter of an ounce cich of Jamaica ginger and black pepper, and a drachm of mace. Uoil again till the quantity is reduced one- Jialf. Pour it out, and let it stand until cool, then put it into per- fectly dry bottles, being careful to leave the sediment, which will have settled to the bottom, undisturbed. Seal the corks and keep in a cool, dry place. Mushrooms en Raoout. i»ut into a stew-pan a little slock, a small quantity of vmega^ parsley, and green onions chopped up, salt and spices. When tiiifi. is about to boil, the mushrooms Ix^ing cleaned, put them in. When done, remove them from the lire, and thicken with yolks of eggs. MifsiiitooMS wrni liAcoisr. Take some full-grown mushntoms, and having cleaned them, procure a few rasluirs of ni(;(! streaky bacon, and fry it in the usual manner. When nearly done, add a dozen or so of mushrooms, and fry them slowly until they are cooked. In this [jrocess they will absorb all the fat of the bacon, and with the addition of a little sal* and pepper, will form a most appetizing breakfast relish. MusiinooM Stkms. If young and fresh, make a capital dish when the supi)ly of mushrooms is limited. Rub them (piitc clean, and after washing them in salt and water, hYh-v, them to the thickness of a shilling, then place them in a sauce-pan with suni(tient milk to stew them tender; throw in a piece of butter and some Hour for thickenmg, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve ui)on a toast of brc^ad, in a hot dish, and add sipp Chicken. Mince cold chicken and a little lean ham quite fine; season with pepper and a little salt; stir all together, add some sweet cream, enough to make it quite moist, cover with crumbs, put it into scallop shells or a flat dish, put a little butter on top, and brown before the fire or front of a range. Chicken Pot-Pie. Cut and joint a large chicken; cover with water, and let it boil gently until tender; season with salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth in a piece of butter the size of an egg. Have ready a nice, light, bread dough; cut with a biscuit-cutter about an inch thick; drop this into the boiling gravy, having previously removed the chicken to a hot platter; cover, and let it boil from one-half to three-quarters of an hour. To ascertain whether they are done or not, stick into one of them a fork, and if it comes out clean, they are done. Lay on the platter with the chicken, pour over the gravy, and serve. Broiled Chicken. Only young, tender chickens are nice broiled. After cleaning and washing them, split down the back, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, and lay them inside down on a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. Broil until nicely browned and well cooked through, watching and turning to prevent burning. Broil with them a Tittle salt pork, cut in thin slices. After taking them from the gridiron, work into them plenty of butter, and sei've, garnished with the pork, slices of lemon and parsley. Ducks a la Francaise. Lard the breast of a duck with bacon and put it in the oven for an hour, and then put it iuto a stewpan of gravy previously pre- pared in the following manner: To one pint of beef gravy add twa- dozen chestnuts, roasted and peeled; two onions, sliced and fried in butter; two sage leaves, and a sprig of thyme; pepper and salt.. '254 POULTRY. When the duck has stewed till tender put it on a dish, add a quarter of a pint of port wine to the gravy, a little butter, and flour to thicken; pour it over the duck and serve. Pressed Chicken, Boil two chickens until dropping to pieces; pick meat off bones, taking out all skin; season with salt and pepper; put in deep tin mold; take one-fourth box of gelatine, dissolved in a little warm water, add to liquid left in kettle, and boil until it begins to thicken; then pour over the chicken and set away to cool; cut in slices for table. Duck a la Mode. Take a couple of ducks, divide them into quarters and lay them in a stewpan with a sprinkling of flour, pepper and salt. Put a large lump of butter divided into pieces at the bottom of the stew- pan and fry the ducks until they are a nice light-brown color. Remove the fjying-pan and put in half a pint of gravy and a glass of port; sprinkle more flour and add a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three shallots minced fine, an anchovy, and a little Cayenne when the ducks have stewed in the gravy till tender, put them on a dish, take out the herbs, clear off any fat, and serve with the sauce thrown over them. Baked Duck. To cook a duck satisfactorily boil it first, until tender; this can be determined by trying the wing, as that is always a tough part of a fowl. When tender take it out, rinse it in clean water, stuff and put it in the oven for about three-quarters of an hour, basting it often. Beaised Ducks. Prepare the ducks exactly like chickens for the dressing, which should be seasoned with butter, sage and onions, as well as salt and pepper. Put them in a pot with some chopped onions, a little butter and water enough to steam. Let them stew gently with the lid on, and then let the Avater evaporate and then brown them, ^erve with green pease and jelly. POULTRY. 255 Braise ob' Duck with Turnip, Prepare a domestic duck as for roasting. Line a small pan, just large enough for the duck, with slices of bacon; strew over the bottom a little parsley, powdered herbs, and lemon peel; lay in the duck, and add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stuck with a few cloves and a dozen whole peppers; cover with stock and add a tablespoon- ful of strong vinegar; baste frequently and simmer until done. Fry some slices of turnip in butter to a light-brown, drain and add them to the stewpan after removing the duck, which should be kept hot. When the turnips are tender remove them, strain the gravy, thickening if necessary with a little flour or arrow-root; put the duck on a dish, turn the hot gravy over it, and garnish with the turnips. Fricasseed Duck. Most people think a duck must be roasted, but try this once instead. Cut a mallard or red duck into four quarters; chop an onion fine, and put all into a pot; cover with water, and add more as it boils away. Stir a little celery seed, or celery chopped up fine, three or four strips of salt pork, and when nearly done add a table- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Build a mound of mashed potatoes around your dish and carefully lay the contents of the fricassee in the center. Season with salt and pepper. This makes a juicy and delicious dish. Mock Duck. Take a round of beefsteak; salt and pepper; prepare a dressing as for turkey and lay it in the steak; sew up; lay two or three slices of fat pork upon it and roast; baste often and you cannot tell it from duck. Minced Fowls. Hemove from the bones all the flesh of either cold, roast or boiled fowls. Clean it from the skin, and keep covered from the air until ready for use. Boil the bones and skin with three-fourths of a pint of water until reduced quite half. Strain the gravy and let cooii 256 POULTRY. Next, having first skimmed off the fat, put it into a clean saucepan with a half cup of cream, three ounces of butter, well mixed with one tablespoonful of flour. Keep these stirred until they boil. Then put in the fowl, finely minced with three hard-boiled eggs, chopped, and sufticient salt and pepper to season. Shake tlie mince over the fire until just ready to boil. Dish it on hot toast, and serve. To Carve Roast Fowl. Insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if the bird is not old, the joint will give way. The wing is next to be broken off, and this is done in the direction of A to B, only dividing the joint with a knife. The four quarters having been removed in this way, take off the merry-thought and the neck bones; these last are to be removed by putting the knife in at C and pressing it, when they will break off fi'om the part that sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl by cutting through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife into the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you and take off very neatly the two sidesmen, which completes the operation. The breast and Avings are considered the best parts of a roast foAvl, but in young fowls the legs are most juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast. Croquettes. Chop fine any cold pieces of cooked meat or chicken, or whatever you may wish to use, first removing all fat, bone, etc.; add half the quantity of fine bread crumbs, one egg, pepper and salt; make into balls and cook in a buttered spider; serve hot. rOULTIlY. 257 To Carvk Roast Goose. Begin by turning the neck end of a goose toward you, and cut- ting the whole breast iu long slices, from one wing to another. (See the lines A B.) To tak' off th' le. , insert the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body; put the knife in at A, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young it will easily come away; if old, we will not answer for it. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; put the knife in at B and divide the joint. When the leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other; but, except when the company is very large, it is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower side-bones, as well as the two side-bones of the wings, may be cut off; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast and thighs, after being separated from the drumstick. Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at C. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of wine, a little orange gravy or vinegar, may be poured into the body of the goose at the open- icg made at the apron by the carvei*. To Boil Goose. Pick and singe a goose carefully. Let it soak in lukewarm milk ind water for eight or ten hours. Stuff and truss it securely; put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it; bring to a boil, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Send good ouion sauce to the table with it. Time, from an Jiour to an hour and a half after it has boiled. Roast Goose. Pluck the goose, carefully remove the quill-sockets and singe off "tile hairs; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long 17 258 POULTRY. enough to turn over. After drawing, wash and wipe the bird botK inside and out, and cut off the feet and pinions at the first joint; pull out the throat and tie the end securely; beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin; draw the legs up closely, and put a skewer through them and through the body; cut off the end of the vent and make a hole in the skin large enough for the rump to go through. This will prevent the seasoning from escaping. Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, onions and potatoes cut fine; season with pepper, salt, sage, and butter the size of an egg; fill the goose and tie down the wings; roast two hours and a half. Boil the liver and heart and add to the gravy, which must be thickened with flour. Send to table with apple sauce and mashed potatoes. Stuffing with Sage and Onion. Boil four large onions until tender; drain them from the water, and mince them finely with four resh sage leaves, or six dry ones, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of made mustard, and a teaspoonful of moist sugar, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, a large ipple, pared and cored, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, m y be added, if approved. Turkey. The turkey is highly esteemed and usually commands a high price, especially at Christmas, when most extravagant prices are often demanded and btained for large and well-fed birds. Turkeys are in season from September to March, and are at theii- best in December and January. If the weather is suitable hey should be hung fully a week before being dressed. In very cold weather care must be taken that they are not frozen in hanging, and if this is the case, they should be brought into a warm place for some Lours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. The hen bird is considered the best. " The turkey is the largest and, if not the most delicate, at least the most savory, of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advantage of assembling around it every class of society. When POULTRY. 259 our farmers regale themselves on a winter's evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, close to which the white-clothed table is set ? A turkey. When the useful tradesman or the hard- worked artist invites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he expected to set before them ? A nice roast turkey, stuffed "with sausage meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest ^astronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second course? A truffled turkey. In my ' Secret Memoirs ' I find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its restorative juice has illuminated diplomatic faces of the highest eminence." Caeving op Tuekey, The breast of a turkey is so large that slices taken neatly from it and from the wings generally suffice for all the company. They should be taken from each side alternately, beginning close to the "wings, and a little forcemeat and a small portion of liver should be served to each guest. When it is necessary that the legs should be used, they should be separated from the body with a sharp knife and cut in slices, but it should be remembered that they, with the gizzard, will make an excellent devil. Boiled Tuekey or Capon". When the poultry is plucked quite clean and singed, see that it is neatly trussed, and, before finally closing the vent, stuff the bird inside with as many raw oysters of the best quality as can be pro- cured, adding to the same a lump of fresh butter, and a portion of bread crumbs from a stale loaf. Remove the turkey or capons into a clean cloth, fold them up carefully, place them into a saucepan of cold water, and let them boil over a moderately-heated fire until they are thoroughly done. Have a stick of white blanched celery at hand and chop it up very small; place it in a quart of new milk in a saucepan, and let it boil gently with a few black pepper corns, tUl the quantity is reduced to one pint; keep stirring the esculent 260 POULTRY. up with the milk until it assumes the character of a consistent pulp. Thicken the whole with the yolk of a fi'esh egg, well beaten up, with half a cup of fresh cream. Have upon the table a sauce-boat of strong veal gravy. Roast Turkey. A young turkey, weighing not more than eight or nine pounds, is the best. Wash and clean thoroughly, wiping dry, as moisture will spoil the stuffing. Take one small loaf of bread grated line, rub into it a piece of butter the size of an egg, one small teasj^oon- ful of pepper and one of salt; sage, if liked. Rub all together, and fill only the breast of the turkey, sewing up so that the stuffing cannot cook out. Always put the giblets under the side of the fowl, so they will not dry up. Rub salt and pepper on the outside; put into dripping-pan with one cup of water, basting often, and tui'n- ing it till brown all over. Bake about three hours. Have left in the chopping-bowl a little stuffing; take out the giblets and chop fine. After taking out the turkey, put in a large tablespoonful of flour; stir until brown. Put the giblets into a gravy-boat, and pour ove» tliem the gravy. Roast Turkey, No. 2. Rinse out the turkey well with soda and water, then with salt, lastly with clear water. Stuff with a dressing made of bread crumbs, wet up with butter and water and season to your taste. Stuff the craw and tie up the neck. Fill the body and sew up the vent. We need hardly say that the strings are to be clipped and removed after the fowl has been roasted. Tie the legs to the lower part of the body that they may not " sprawl " as the sinews shrink. Put into the dripping-pan, pour a cup of boiling water over it, and roast, basting often, allowing about ten minutes' time for every pound. Be careful not to have your oven too hot — especially for the first hour or so. The turkey would, otherwise, be dry and blackened on the outside aid raw within. Much of the perfection, of roasting poultry depends upon basting faithfully. Boil the POULTRY. 261 giblets tender in a little water. When the turkey is done, set it where it will keep warm; skim the gravy left in the pan; add a little boiling water; thicken slightly with browned flour; boil up once and add the giblets minced fine. Season to taste; give another boil, and send to table in a gravy-boat. Boiled Turkey. Stuff the turkey as for roasting. A very nice dressing is mada by chopping half a pint of oysters and mixing them with bread crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, thj^me, and wet with milk or water. Baste about the turkey a thin cloth, the inside of which has been dredged with flour, and put it to boil in cold water with a tea- spoonful of salt in it. Let a large turkey simmer for three hours. Skim while boiling. Serve with oyster sauce, made by adding to a cup of the liquor in which the turkey was boiled the same quantity of milk and eight oysters chopped fine; season with minced parsley; stir in a spoonful of rice or wheat flour wet with cold milk; a table- spoonful of butter. Boil up once and pour into a tureen. Turkey Dressed with Oysters. For a ten-pound turkey take two pints of bread crumbs, half a cup of butter cut in bits (not melted), one teaspoonful of powdered thyme or summer savory, pepper, salt, and mix thoroughly. Rub the turkey well inside and out with salt and pepper, then fill with first a spoonful of crumbs, then a few well-drained oysters, using half a can for a turkey. Strain the oyster liquor and use to baste the turkey. Cook the giblets in the pan, and chop fine for the gravy. A fowl of this size will require three hours in a moderate oven. Deviled Turkey. The legs, back, gizzard and rump of cold dressed turkey may be used for this dish. Score the meat along in a cross at regular dis- tances, three-quarters of an inch apart, and three-quarters of an inch deep. Rub into the gashes a well-mixed seasoning made of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 262 POULTRY. saltspoonful of Cayenne, and the strained juice of a lemon, an5 cover with freshly-made mustard. Brush the pieces of meat over with butter or oil and broil over a clear fire till they are brown and crisp without being at all burnt, and turn them over that they may be equally done on both sides. Send to table on hot dish with little pieces of butter on them. Dry toast may be served as an accompaniment. The devil will be all the more savory if it is pre- pared some hours before it is broiled. If liked, half a clove of garlic may be minced and mixed with the seasoning. Turkey Scallop. Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bottom of a buttered dish, moisten them with a little milk, then put in a layer of turkey with some of the filling, and cut small pieces of butter over the top; sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of bread crumbs, and so on until the dish is nearly full; add a little hot water to the gravy left from the turkey, and pour over it. Then take two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a little salt, and cracker crumbs as much as will make it thick enough to spread on with a knife, put bits of butter over it, and cover with a plate. Bake three-quarters of an hour. About ten minutes before serving, remove the plate and let it brown. Plain Stuffing. Take stale bread, cut off all tlio crust, rub very fine and pour over it as much melted butter as will make it crumble in your hands; salt and pepper to taste. Apple Stuffing. Take half a pound of the pulp of tart apples which have been baked or scalded; add two ounces of bread crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely-shred onion; season well with Cayenne pepper. For roast goose, duck, etc. POULTRY. 263 Potato Stuffing. Take two-thirds bread and one-third boiled potatoes, grated, batter size of an egg, pepper, salt, one egg and a little ground sage; mix thoroughly. Chestnut Stuffing. Boil the chestnuts and shell them; then blanch them and boil until soft; mash them fine and mix with a little sweet cream, some bread crumbs, pepper and salt. For turkey. For other stufiings, see " Forctmaaijo,''' CHAPTER XIX. pickles. ANY peojjle consider it mucli cheaper to buy their j^ickles than to make them. Neverthe- xless, there is always a certain amount of satisfaction in using home-made j)reparatious, as by this means the quality of the article can be assured beyond all question, and many ^ ladies take great pride in their store of home- .made pickles. A great outcry was raised ^ some years ago about the unwholesomeness of ~ "^" i^ickles, and attention was called to the fact that most of those ordinarily sold, were positively x^ernicious, because the vinegar used in making them was boiled in copper vessels. This evil has now been, to a great extent, remedied; and it may be reasonably assumed that pickles which are sold by respectable dealers have been properly prepared. At the same time, for safety's sake, the rule should be laid down that all pickles which are beautifnl and brilliant in color and appearance should be avoided, as this is a certain sign that the vinegar used has been boiled in a metal pan. In making pickles, care must be taken that tlie vegetables and fruit used for the purjDOse are pro- cured at the right season, that they are perfectly sound, not over- rii3e, and have been gathered on a dry day. They should be trimmed and wiped before they are used, and not- washed, unless they are afterwards to be partially boiled or soaked. The vinegar must be of the best quality. AYliite wine vinegar is generally recommended, for the sake of the appearance, but it is not as 264 PICKLES. 2G5 wholesome as the best cider vinegar. Metal utensils should never be used in making pickles, as the vinegar acting upon the metal produces a poison. Enameled or stone vessels and wooden spoons should therefore be used; and the best method that can be adopted is to put the vinegar into a stone jar, and heat it on a stone or hot hearth. Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, or unglazed earthen jars, and should be closely corked, and the corks sealed down, or covered with wet bladder. They should be stored in a dry place. As the vinegar becomes absorbed more should be added, as it is important that the vegetables should be covered at least two inches above the surface with vinegar. If any of the vinegar is left after the pickle is used, it should be boiled up with fresh spices, and bottled for flavoring sauces, etc. It should be remembered that to boil vinegar is to decrease its strength. If it is wished to hasten the preparation of the pickles, partially boil the vegetables in brine and let them cool and get quite dry before the vinegar ia poured over them. Pickled Artichokes, Boil your artichokes in strong salt and water for two or three minutes; lay on a hair sieve to drain; when cold, lay in narrow- topped jars. Take as much white wine vinegar i%3, will cover the artichokes, and boil it with a blade or two of niace, some root ginger, and a nutmeg grated fine. Pour it on hot, seal and put away for use. Pickled Butternuts and Walnuts. Gather them when soft enough to be pierced by a pin; lay them in brine five days, changing this twice in the meantime; drain, and wipe them with a coarse cloth; pierce each by running a large needle through it, and lay in cold water for six hours. To each gallon of vinegar allow a cup of sugar, three dozen each of cloves and black peppers, half as much allspice, and a dozen blades of mace. Boil five minutes; pack the nuts in small jars and pour over them scalding hot. Repeat this twice within a week; tie up and set away. They will be good to eat in a month. 266 PICKLES. Pickled Beans. The beans should be gathered young. Place them In a strong- brine of salt and water; when turning yellow, which will be in a day or two, remove them and wipe them dry. Boil the vinegar with a little mace, whole pepper, and ginger (two ounces of pepper and one ounce each of ginger and mace to each quart of vinegar); pour this over the beans. A small bit of alum, or a teaspoonful of soda will bring back the color. Cover them to keep in the steam and reboil the vinegar the next day; throw over hot as before. Cover, but do not tie down till cold. Pickled Beets. Take the beets, cleanse and boil two hours. When cold peel and slice, put into a jar and cover with vinegar prepared in the following manner: Boil half an ounce each of clones, pepper-corns, mace and ginger in a pint of vinegar, when cold add another pint. Pickled Bkocoll Choose the finest, whitest and closest vegetables before they are quite ripe. Pare off all green leaves and the outsides of the stalks. Parboil them in well-salted water. When drained and dry pull ofli the branches in convenient sized pieces and put them into a jar of pickle prepared as for onions. Time to parboil, four or fiv& minutes. Bottled Pickles. Wash and wipe small cucumbers; put into a stone jar and covep with salt — allowing a pint of salt to a half bushel of cucumbers — and pour over them boiling water enough to cover. Place a gallon at a time on the stove, cover with vinegar, and add a lump of alum about the size of a hickory nut. Put on the stove in another kettle a gallon of the very best cider vinegar, to which add half a pint of brown sugar; have bottles cleansed and placed to heat on stove in a vessel of cold water; also have a cup of heated sealing-wax. Have spices prepared in separate dishes as follows: Green and red PICKLES. 267 peppers sliced in rings; horse-radish, roots washed, scraped and cut in small pieces; black and yellow mtlstard seed if liked, each pre- pared by sprinkling with salt and pouring on some boiling water, which let stand for fifteen minutes and then draw oif ; stick of cinnamon broken into pieces and a few cloves. When pickles come to boiling point, take out and pack in bottles, mixing with them the spices. Put in a layer of pickles, then a layer of spices, shaking the bottles occasionally so as to pack tightly. When full, cover with the boiling hot vinegar from the other kettle (using a bright funnel and tin cup), going over them a second time and filling up, in order to supply shrinkage, for the pickles must be entirely covered with vinegar. Put in the corks, which should fit very snugly; lift each bottle and dip the corked end in the hot sealing- wax; proceed in this manner with each bottle, dipping each a second time into the wax so that they may be perfectly secure. Glass cans, the covers of which have become defective, can be used by supplying corks. Pickles prepared in this way ax-e superior to imported pickles. Maey's Pickled Blackbereies. Three quarts blackberries, one quart vinegar, one quart sugar. No spice is required; put all together at the same time into your kettle and boil ten or fifteen minutes. After standing a few weeks they are very nice. To Put up Cucumbers ix Brine. Leave at least an inch of stem to the cucumbers, and wash well in cold water. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; put your cucumbers in this as you gather them each day from the vines. Cut a board so as to fit inside of your barrel; bore holes here and there through it, and put this board on the cucum- bers with a weight suflicient to keep it down. Each day take off the scum that rises. When wanted for use, take out what is necessary and soak them two or three days, or until the salt is out 268 PICKLES. of them, and then pour boiling spiced vinegar over the.n. A red pepper or two is an improvement if one likes hot pickles. Pickled Cabbage. Select solid heads, slice very fine, put in a jar, then cover with boiling water; when cold, drain off the water, and season with grated horse radish, salt, equal parts of black and red pejjper, cinna- mon and whole cloves. Pickled Cauliflower. Choose such as are firm, yet of their full size; cut away all the leaves and pare the stalks; pull away the flowers in bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them, wipe them dry, and put therd in hot pickle, or merely infuse for three days three ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar. Pickled Caulifloaver, No. 2, These should be sliced and salted for two or three days, then drained, and spread upon a dry cloth before the fire for twenty- four hours; after which they are put into a jar, and covered with piced vinegar. Picked Cabbage, No. 2. Slice red cabbage very thin; put on it a little coarse salt, and let it rest twenty-four hours to drain; add sliced onions, if you like them. Boil four spoonfuls pepper, and four of allspice in a quarfc of vinegar, and pour it over. Pickled Cucumbers. Wash with care your cucumbers, and place in jars. Make a weak brine (a handful of salt to a gallon and a half of water). When scalding hot, turn over the cucumbers and cover; repeat this '.process three mornings in succession, taking care to skim thor- oughly. On the fourth day have ready a porcelain kettle of winegar, to which has been added a piece of alum the size of a valnut. When scalding hot, put in as many cucumbers as may be 'overed with the vinegar; do not let them boil, but skim out as PICKLES. 269 soon as scalded through, and reijlace with others, adding evjli lim« a small piece of alum. When this process is through, throw out the vinegar, and replace with good cider or white wine vinegar; add spices, mustard seed and red pepper. Sort the pickles and placff them in stone or glass jars, turn over the hot spiced vinegar; seal and put away the jars not wanted for immediate use. Pickles thus prepared are fine and crisp at the expiration of a year. Those that are kept in open mouth jars may be covered with a cloth, whicb will need to be taken off and rinsed occasionally. Chow-Chow. Two quarts of tomatoes, two white onions, half-dozen green pep- pers, one dozen cucumbers, two heads of cabbage, all chopped fine; let this stand over night; sprinkle a cup of salt in it. In the morn- ing drain off the brine, and season Avith one tablespoonful of celery seed, one ounce of turmeric, half teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one cup of brown sugar, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of all^ spice, ono ounce of black pepper, one-quarter ounce cloves, vinegar enough to cover, and boil two hours. Chow-Chow, No. 2. Two heads of cabbage, two heads of cauliflower, one dozen cucumbers, six roots of celery, six peppers, one quart of small white onions, two quarts of green tomatoes; cut into small pieces and boil each vegetable separately until tender, then strain them. Two gallons of vinegar, one-fourth pound of mustard, one-fourth poun(i of mustard seed, one pot of French mustard, one ounce of cloves, two ounces of turmeric; put the vinegar and spices into a kettle and let them come to a boil; mix the vegetables and pour over the dressing. Pickled Cherries. Take the largest and ripest red cherries, remove the stems, have ready a large glass jar, fill it two-thirds full with cherries, and fill «p to the top with best vinegar; keep it well covered and no boil-> 270 PICKLES. ing or spice is necessary, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and the cherries will not shrivel. French Pickles. One peck of green tomatoes, sliced, six large onions, sliced; sprinkle over them one cup of salt; let them stand over night; in the morning drain and boil for fifteen minutes in two parts water and one part vinegar; drain again; take two quarts vinegar, one pound sugar, one tablespoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and all- spice; boil together for fifteen minutes and pour over the pickles. Pickled Grapes. Fill a jar with alternate layers of sugar and bunches of nice grapes, not too ripe; fill one-third full of good, cold vinegar and cover tightly. Pickled Grapes, No. 2. When grapes are not quite ripe, but dark colored, pick from the stem and wash; put in bottles; in a dish pirc sugar and vinegar, and boil a few minutes; add spices to taste; boil a few minutei^ pour over the grapes and seal up the bottles. To Harden Pickles. After they are taken out of the brine take a lump of alum and a horse-radish cut in strips; put this in the vinegar, and it will make them hard and crisp. When you wish to make a few cucumber pickles quick, take good cider vinegar; heat it boiling hot and pour it over them. When cool, they are ready for use. Lemox Pickles. Wipe six lemons, cut each into eight pieces; put on them a pouna of salt, six large cloves of garlic, two ounces of horse-radish, slicec thin, likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard; to these put two quarts of vinegar. Boil a quarter of an hour in a well-tinned sauce- pan; or, which is better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling PICKLES. 271 water; or set the jar on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it daily for six weeks; keep the jar close covered. Put it into small bottles. IVlAifGOEs OF Melons. Take green melons and make a brine strong enough to bear up an egg; then pour it boiling hot on the melons, keei^ing them under the brine; let them stand five or six days, slit them down on one side, take out all the seeds, scrape them well in the inside, and wash them clean; then take cloves, garlic, ginger, nutmeg and pepper; put all these proportionately into the melons, filling them up with mustard seed; then lay them into an earthern pot, and take one part of mustard seed and two parts of vinegar, enough to cover them, pouring it on scalding hot. Keep them closely covered. IiiiTATTOisr Pickled Mangoes. Large cucumbers, or small melons, are split so that a marrow- spoon may be introduced, and the seeds scooped out; they are then parboiled in brine strong enough to float an egg, di'ied on a cloth before the fire, filled with mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and then covered with spiced vinegar. Real mangoes are pickled in the same way. Pickled Nasturtiums. Soak for three days in strong salt and water; then strain and pour boiling vinegar over them, omitting the spice. Vinegar for any pickle should never be allowed to boil over one minute. Pickled Onions. Small silver-skinned onions; remove outer skin so that each one is white and clean; put them into brine that will float an egg for three days; bring vinegar to a boiling point, add a little mace and whole red peppers and pour hot over the onions, well drained from the brine. Pickled Onions, No. 2. Peel the onions and let them lie in strong salt and water nine 4»ys, changing the water each day; then put them into jars and 272 PICKLES. pour fresh salt and water on them, this time boiling hot; -when it is cold, take them out and put them on a hair sieve to drain, after which put them in wide-mouthed bottles and pour over them vinegar prepared in the following manner: Take white wine vinegar and boil it with a blade of mace, some salt and ginger in itf when cool, pour over the onions. Pickles. An excellent way to make pickles that will keep a year or raor» is to drop them into boiling hot water, but not boil them; let them stay ten minutes, wipe them dry, and drop them into cold, spiced vinegar, and they will not need to be put in salt and water. Stuffed Peppers. Chop a large cabbage finely, add one large spoonful grated horse- radish root and one ounce of white mustard seed; mix all this well; cut pieces out of the stem ends of large green peppers, large as a silver dollar; fill with the filling and sew the piece in again with cotton thread; then take vinegar enough to cover; spice with cloves, mace and allspice, whole; boil, and when nearly cold, pour over the peppers; no salt is to be used. Mangoes are pickled and stuffed in the same manner. Mixed Pickles. One quart raw cabbage chopped fine; one quart boiled beete chopped fine; two cups of sugar, tablespoonful of salt, one tea- epoonful red pepper, one cup of grated horse-radish; cover with cold vinegar and keep from the air. Mixed Pickles, No. 2, Three hundred small cucumbers, four green peppers sliced fine, two large or three small heads cauliflower, three heads of white cabbage sliced fine, nine large onions sliced, one large horse-radish, one quart green beans cut one inch long, one quart green tomatoes sliced; put this mixture in a pretty strong brine twenty-four hours; drain three hours; then sprinkle in one-fourth pound black and PICKLES. 273 one-fourth pound of white mustard seed; also one tablespoonful black ground pepper; let it come to a good boil in just vinegar enough to cover it, adding a little alum; drain again and when cold put in one-half pint ground mustard; cover the whole with good cider vinegar; add turmeric enough to color if you like. India Pickles. Take three quarts of vinegar, quarter pound mustard, half ounce of black pepper, one ounce cloves, one ounce allspice, one ounce turmeric, one ounce ginger, one ounce Cayenne pepper, hand- ful of salt and the same of sugar; boil for twenty minutes. When cold put in the vegetables, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower cut up small, and cover closely. If the liquid should seem thin, boil again and add more mustard in three weeks after making. Pyper Pickles. Salt pickles down dry for ten days, soak in fresh water one day; pour off water, place in porcelain kettle, cover with water and vinegar and add one teaspoonful pulverized alum; set over night on a stove which had fire in it during the day; wash and put in a jar with cloves, allspice, pepper, horse-radish, onions or garlic; boil fresh vinegar and pour over all. Ready for use in two weeks. Ragan Pickles. Two gallons of cabbage, sliced fine, one gallon of chopped green tomatoes, twelve onions, also chopped, one gallon best vinegar, one pound of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of black pepper, half an ounce of turmeric powder, one ounce celery seed, one table- spoonful of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of ground cloves, one-quarter pound white mustard, and one gill of salt. Boil all together, stirring well, for two liours; take from the fire and add the spices, then put in air-tight jars; set in a cool, dry place, and this delicio«s pickle will keep all winter. Sweet Pickles. To every seven pounds of fruit allow tlii-ee and one-half pounds 274 PICKLES. of sugar and one pint of cider vinegar, two ounces whole cloves, two of stick cinnamon. This is for peaches, pears, apples or musk melons. Peaches, pears, and apples should be pared only, not divided. Then in each stick two whole cloves. The cinnamon should be boiled in the vinegar. Put the prepared fruit into a jar and pour the vinegar, scalding hot, over it. Repeat this for three mornings. These sweet pickles will be found delicious, and will keep any length of time. The melons should be cut in strips as if to serve fresh on the table, and should not be too ripe. Simmer them thirty minutes slowly in the prepared vinegar, and they will need no further attention except to keep them closely covered, and they will keep good a year. Sweet Apple Pickle. Pickled sweet apples can be made by taking three pounds of sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one-half ounce of cinnamon, one-half ounce of cloves; pare the apples, leaving them whole; boil them in part of the vinegar and sugar until you can put a fork through them; take them out; heat the remainder of the vinegar and sugar and pour over them. Be careful not to boil them too long or they will break. Sweet Tomato Pickle. Seven pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, three and a lalf pounds of sugar, one pound of mace and cinnamon mixed, one ounce of cloves, one quart of vinegar. Mix all together and stew an hour. Green Tomato Pickles. Slice one peck of tomatoes into a jar and sprinkle a little salt over each layer; let them stand twenty-four hours, drain. off the liquor; put the tomatoes into a kettle with a teaspoonful of each of the following spices: Ground ginger, allspice, cloves, mace, cinnamon, a teaspoonful of scraped horse-radish, twelve small or three large red peppers, three onions, a cup of brown sugar; cover all with vinegar; boil slowly for three hours. PICKLES. 275 PiCALILLI. One peck green tomatoes, one large cabbage, one dozen onions; add half pint salt; after the above have been chopped tine let it fitand over night; in the morning drain off the brine and scald in weak vinegar; drain t^is off and stir in gi-ound spices to suit the taste; add six red peppers and a little horse-radish root; pack in a •crock and cover with strong vinegar; a few small cucumbers put in whole are quite an addition. PiCKLETTE. Four large crisp cabbages chopped fine, one quart of onions ■chopi^ed fine, two quarts of vinegar, or enough to cover the cabbage, two tablespoonf uls each of ground mustard, black pepper, cinnamon, turmeric, celery seed, and one of allspice, pulverized alum and mace. Pack the onions and cabbage in alternate layers with a little salt between them. Let them stand until next day. Then scald the vinegar, sugar and spices together and pour over the cabbage and onions. D'^ this three mornings in succession. On the fourth put i*ll together over the fire and heat to a boil; let them boil five mi-iutcs. When cold pack in small jars. It is fit for use as soon as ^old and will keep well. Spiced Vinegar for Pickles Geiterallt. Bruise in a mortar two ounces black pepper, one ounce ginger, one-half ounce allspice, and one ounce salt. If a hotter pickle is desired, add one-ha?'; drachm Cayenne, or a few capsicums. For walnuts add also one ounce shallots. Put these in a stone jar, with a quart of vinegar, and cover them with a bladder wetted Avith the pickle, and over this a piece of leather. Set the jar near the fire for three days, shaking it three time a day; then pour it on the walnuts or other vegetables. For walnuts it is used hot; for cabbage, etc., cold. Pickled Peaches. To fourteen pounds of peaches peeled, put three pounds of brown 276 PICKLES. sugar, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, same of powdered cloves, to one quart of strong cider vinegar. Let the vinegar, sugar, and spices boil a very little while; then put in your peaches and let them scald enough to stick a straw through them with ease. Take them out and put them in an earthen jar, seeing that the vinegar covers them well, which must be poured over the packed peaches. Put a cover over them lightly the first day; the second pour off the vinegar, heat and pour it boiling hot over the fruit. Repeat till the fruit is ready for use. Four or five times heating will generally cure them. Watch closely and if any fermentation occurs pour off the vinegar and scald it, skimming off any scum that arises. Pickled Peaches that will Keep. Four pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, to twelve pounds of fruit; put sugar and vinegar together and boil ; then add the fruit and let it come to a boil; the next day dram off the liquor and boil again; do this three times and your pickles are delicious; add cinnamon to the liquor and stick two or three cloves in each peach. To Pickle Plums. For eight pounds of fruit take four pounds of sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one ounce cmnamon, and one ounce cloves; boil the vinegar, sugar, and spices together; skim, and pour scalding hot over your fruit; let it set three days, pour off the syrup, scald and skim and pour over again, and continue this process every three days till you have scalded it three times, after which it will be fit for use. Plums prepared in this way we think superior to the old method of preserving with sugar alone. Green Tomato Sot. Two gallons of green tomatoes sliced without peeling; slice also twelve good sized onions; two quarts of vinegar, one quart of sugar, two tablespoonfuls each of salt, ground mustard, and ground black pepper, one tablespoonful of cloves and allspice. Mix all together and stew until tender, stirring often lest they should scorch. Put up in small glass jars. A good sauce for all kinds of meat or fish. PICKLES. 277 To Keep Tomatoes Whole. Fill a large stone jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole cloves and a little sugar; cover them well with one-half cold vinegar and half water; place a piece of flannel over the jar well down in the vinegar, then tie down with paper. In this way toma- toes can be kept a year. Should mildew collect on the flannel it will not hurt them in the least. Pickled Tomatoes. Let the tomatoes be thoroughly ripe and let them lie in strong salt and water for three or four days; then put them down in layers in jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- radish; then pour on vinegar, cold, after having spiced it. Use plenty of spice, cover carefully, and let stand for a month before using. CHAPTER XX. ^XtBtXVtB. XTEA preserves must be made of fruit that is free from all defects. Dry white sugar should be used. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into dry preserves, by draining the syrup from them, and then drying them in .a very moderate oven, adding to them plenty of i)0\vdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the fi'uit. While drying they should be turned every six hours, and sugar sifted over them. Keep in a dry place. Apple Preserves. Take three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of apples j make a syrup of the sugar and water, and a little lemon juice or sliced lemon; skim off all scum and put a few apples at a time into the syrup and boil until they are transparent; skim out and put in a jar. When all are done, boil the syrup down thick; pour it boiling hot over the apples and cover closely. Well- flavored fruit not easily broken should be selected. Citron Preserves. Pare and take out the seeds and cut them in pieces one inch thick and two inches in length; weigh them and put into a preserving kettle and cook them until they are clear, or steam them, then 2l& PRESERVES. 279 make a syrup of their weight in sugar with water and add two sliced lemons for each pound of fruit; put the citron into the syrup, a part at a time, and boil about fifteen mmutes; skim out and put into a jar. When all has been thus cooked, boil the syrup down thick, and pour over it. Cover closely with paper which the air cannot penetrate, or use air-tight Jars. Cttro'n Preseeyes, No. 2. First, peel and cut the citron in pieces an inch square; then boil in water until soft; drain off the water and add one pound of sugar to each pound of citron; to every five pounds of the preserve add one pound of raisins, one lemon sliced, half an ounce of white cloves, one ounce of stick cinnamon; dissolve the sugar, and when hot, add the fruit and simmer slowly for two hours. Currant I'reserves. Take ten pounds of currants and seven pounds of sugar; pick the stems from seven pounds of the currants and press the juice from the other three pounds; when the juice and sugar are made into a hot syrup, put in the currants and boil until thick and rich. Braxdied Cherries or Berries. Make a syruj) of a pound of sugar and a half gill of water for every two pounds of fruit. Heat to boiling, stirring to prevent burning, and pour over the fruit while warm — not hot. Let them stand together an hour; put all into a preserving kettle, and heat slowly; boil five minutes, take out the fruit with a perforated skim- mer, and boil the syrup twenty minutes. Add a pint of brandy for •every five pounds of fruit; pour over the berries hot, and seal. Lemon Preserves. One pound of pounded loaf sugar, quarter pound of butter, six eggs and the whites of four, well beaten, the rind of two lemons, grated, and the juice of three. Mix together and let it simmer till ©f the consistency of honey. Be careful to stir all the time or it will burn. 280 PRESERVES. Preserved Oranges. Take any number of oranges, with rather more than their weight in white sugar. Slightly grate the oranges and score them round and round with a knife, but do not cut very deep. Put them in cold water for three days, changing the water two or three times a day. Tie them up in a cloth, boil them until they are soft enough for the head of a pin to penetrate the skin. While they are boiling place the sugar on the fire, with rather more than half a pint of water to each pound; let it boil for a minute or two, then strain it through muslin. Put the oranges into the syrup till it jellies and is a yellow color. Try the syrup by putting some to cool. It must not be too stiff. The syrup need not cover the oranges, but they must be turned, so that each part gets thoroughly done. Preserved Pine-Apple. Pare, cut into slices, take out the core of each one, and weigh, allowing pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Put in alternate layers in the kettle and pour in water, allowing a cup to each pound of sugar. Heat to a boil; take out the pine-apple and spread upon dishes in the sun. Boil and skim the syrup half an hour. Return the pine-apple to the kettle and boil fifteen minutes. Take it out, pack in wide-mouth jars, pour on the scalding syrup; cover to keep in the heat, and, when cold, tie up, first putting brandied tissue paper upon the top. To Preserve Plums or Cherries. Make a syrup of clean, brown sugar, and clarify it; when per- fectly clear and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having picked out all the unsound ones and stems. Let them remain in the syrup two days, then drain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over again; let them remain another day or two, then put them into a preserving kettle over the fire, and simmer gently until the syrup is reduced, and thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Small damsons are very fine preserved, as are PRESERVES. 281 cherries, or any other ripe fruit. Clarify the syrup, and when boiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very gently until they are cooked, and the syrup rich. Put them in pots or jars the next day; secure as directed. Purple Plums Preserved. . Take an equal weight of fruit and nice sugar. Take a clean stone jar and fill it with the fruit and sugar in layers. Cover them and set the jar in a kettle of water over the fire. Let them stand in the boiling water all day, filling up the kettle as the water boils away. If at any time they seem likely to ferment, repeat this pro- cess. It is a simple and excellent way of preserving plums. To Preserve Pears. Pare them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup; let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer and simmer again. Repeat this till they are clear; then drain and dry them in the sun or a cool oven a little time; or they may be kept in the syrup and dried a* wanted, which ruakes them richer. Brandy Peaches. Drop the peaches in hot water, let them remain till the skin can be ripped off; make a thin syrup, and let it cover the fruit; boil the fruit till they can be pierced with a straw; take it out, make a very rich syrup, and add, after it is taken from the fire, and while it is still hot, an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this, while it is still warm, over the peaches in the jar. They must be covered with it. Peach Preserves. Take any nice peaches that will not cook to pieces, pare them and take out the pits; take their weight in sugar, or, if they are to be canned, three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, and a coffee-cup of water to each pound of sugar. Boil part of the pits in the water until the flavor is extracted, then remove the pits; add about as much water as has evaporated, then add the sugar; skin^ 282 ■ PRESERVES. thoroughly, then add a small quantity of fruit at a time, cook slowly for about ten minutes, skim out into a jar, then add more. When all are done, pour the boiling syrup over them. The next day drain off the syrup and boil again and pour back; do the same for two or three days, then make them air-tight with paper as directed for jellies; or, if to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is sufficient. Cling stone peaches are preserved the same way, whole, except that they must be cooked longer. Quince Preserves. Pare and core the quinces, and cut into halves or quarters, as suit» the size of your jars; let them stand over night in enough cold water to cover them; in the morning put them in the kettle with the same water and let them cook gently until you can just stick a fork in them; take the fruit out with a skimmer, weigh it and to each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar; put the fruit and sugar into the kettle, with enough of the water to make a good syrup, and let therd boil gently until they are clear; take out carefully with the skimmer and put into the jars; fill the jars to the top with the syrup. If there is a large quantity of fruit, and the kettle is not large, it is best to put the fruit in the syrup a little at a time. Presertixg Strawberries. Select the largest and finest strawberries. Hull them, weigh and allow to each pound one pound of the best double refined loaf sugar finely powdered. Divide the sugar into two equal jjortions. Put a layer of strawberries into the bottom of a preserving kettle and cover them with a layer of sugar, until half the sugar is in; next set the kettle over a moderate fire and let it boil till the sugar is melted; then put in, gradually, the remainder of the sugar, and, after it is all in, let it boil hard for five minutes, taking off the scum with a silver spoon; but there will be little or no scum if the sugar is of the very best quality. Afterwards remove the kettle from the fire and take out the strawberries very carefully in a spoon. Spread out the strawberries on large, flat dishes, so as not to touch each other, and PRESERVES. 283: set them immediately in a cold place or on ice. Hang the kettle again on the fire, and give the syrup one boil up, skimming it if necessary. Place a fine strainer over the top of a mug or pitcher, and pour the syrup through it. Then put the strawberries into glass jars or tumblers; pour into each an equal portion of the syrup. Lay at the top a round piece of white paper dipped in brandy. Seal the jars tightly. Raspberries may be preserved as above; also large ripe goose- berries. To each pound of gooseberries allow one and a half pounds sugar. Bury them in a box of sand, or keep in a dark, cool place. Geeen" Tomato Preserves. Eight pounds small, green tomatoes; pierce each with a fork; seven pounds sugar, juice of four lemons, one ounce of ginger and mace mixed; heat all together slowly and boil until the fruit is clear; remove from kettle with skimmer and spread upon dishes to cool; boil the syrup thick; put the fruit in jars and cover with hot syrup. Ripe Tomato Preserves. Seven pounds round yellow or egg tomatoes, peeled, seven pounds sugar, juice of three lemons; let them stand together over night, drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming well; put in the tomatoes, and boil gently twenty minutes; take out the fruit with a perforated skimmer and spread upon dishes; boil the syrup down until it thickens, adding, just before taking it up, the juice of three lemons; put the fruit into the jars and fill up with hot syrup. When cold, seal up. Spiced Currants. Four quarts ripe currants, three pounds brown sugar, one pint cider vinegar, one tablespoonful each of allspice and cloves, and a kittle nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil one hour, stirring occasionally. Spiced Gooseberries. Six quarts of gooseberries, ripe or green, nine pounds of sugar,, «ne pint of vinegar (not too strong), one tablespoonful each of" 284 PRESERVES. •cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Put the berries in the kettle with half the sugar and a little water; boil an hour and a half. When nearly done, add the rest of the sugar; set it off the fire and add the spices and vinegar. Spiced Grapes. Five pounds of grapes, three of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of cin- namon and allspice, half teaspoonful of cloves; pulp grapes; boil until tender; cook pulps and strain through a sieve; add to it the ■spices, put in sugar, spices and vinegar to taste; boil thoroughly and cool. Spiced Nutmeg Melon. Select melons not quite ripe; open, scrape out the pulp, peel and «lice; put the fruit in a stone jar, and, for five pounds of fruit take a quart of vinegar and two and a half pounds of sugar; scald vin- egar and sugar together, and pour over the fruit; scald the syi'up and pour over the fruit for eight successive days. On the ninth, add one ounce of stick cinnamon, one of whole cloves, and one of allspice; scald fruit, vinegar and spices together, and seal up in jars. This pickle should stand two or three months before using. 31ue plums are very nice prepared in this way. Spiced Peaches. Five pounds peaches, two of brown sugar, one quart vinegar, one •ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace. Wipe the peaches and hoil until done in the vinegar and sugar, then take out, put in spices, "boil well and pour over. Spiced Plums. Spio^ed plums are delicious with cold meat. Cook the plums in a little water until they are soft; then, so far as possible, remove the stones, sweeten and spice to your taste, and boil until thick; put in iarge-mouthed bottles and seal, or can in the usual- way. PRESERVES. 285; Spiced Plums, No, 2. Nine pounds blue pluraf?, six pounds sugar, two quarts vinegar^ one ounce cinnamon; boil vinegar, sugar and spice together, pour over plums, draw off next morning and boil; pour back on plums: repeat the boiling five mornings, the last time boiling the fruit about twenty minutes. CHAPTER XXL HOICE material should be used in making salads, the vegetables crisp and fresh, the oil or butter the very best, meats, fowl and fish well cooked, pure cider or white } .^ wine vinegar — in fact, every ingredient first-class, to insure success. The vegetables used in salad are: "•*' Beet-root, onions, potatoes, cabbage, let- tuce, celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, ■winter cress, peas, French beans, radish, cauliflower, — all these may be used judiciously in salad, if properly seasoned, according to the following directions : Celery Salad. Cut nice blanched salad very small. Wash clean and dry it; pour over it a Mayonnaise sauce (see Savory Sauces,) or any salad dressing, and garnish with green celery leaves. Chicken Salad. Use the white meat of two good sized chickens, and celery enough to make the proportion one-third chicken and two-thirds celery; boil ten eggs hard, rub the yolks perfectly smooth with a jsilver spoon, adding gradually four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one 286 SALADS. 287 tablespoonful of made mustard, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tea- spoonful of black pepper, half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and one tablespoonful of sugar; add sweet cream by degrees until about the consistency of batter. Just before sending to the table, mix the dressing with the chicken and celery, and moisten with sharp vinegar. The juice of two lemons is an improvement. Chicken Salad, No. 2. Boil the white meat of two large chickens; cut it coarse, and add the white part of celery, cut coarse; a little more chicken than celery. Dressing. — Three yolks of eggs, well beaten; one jsint of oil added drop by drop, and beaten; the juice of two lemons, one tea- spoonful of dry mustard, a little Cayenne pepper, a little salt. If jQOt moist enough, beat the whites of two eggs and add to it. Cabbage Salad. I'o a dish of chopped cabbage, four teaspoonfuls of celery seed, or one bunch of celeiy. Put in a bowl, yolks of two eggs, one tea- spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of made mustard, one-half cup of vinegar. Set the bowl into hot water, and stir care- fully until it begins to thicken. Let it get cold, and pour over the cabbage. If it does not moisten it enough, put in a little more vinegar. Fish Salad. This consists of cold fish of any kind, mixed with well-dried salad, pickled gherkins, or any other green pickle. Oysters or shrimps may be added to the other fish, which should be separated neatly into flakes, and the whole moistened with a salad dressing Garnish with some slices of lemon and parsley. Hot Egg Salad. Put a tablespoonful of salad oil in a pan and let it get hot. Break in three eggs; stir a little with r fork, but not enough to 288 SALADS. mix the yolks and whites; these should be kept separate. Put the eggs out on a dish, and put over them a tablespoonful of chopped pickle and a tablespoonful of grated lemon rind. Make a salad dressing of one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, three of salad oil, a saltspoonful of salt, and one-quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Much of the niceness of this salad depends on its being served hot. ExDivE AViTH Winter Salad. An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad may be made in winter principally by the aid of this plant. Only a little cress, celery, and beetroot will be necessary to form a striking contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which may be arranged {en bouquet) in the centre, or interspcred with other materials, through the dish. Endive may be had good from November till March. Lettuce Salad, Wash and dry nice leaves of lettuce, and pour over a salad dressing, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Lettuce Salad, No. 2. Wash, diy, and shred nice leaves of lettuce, and put them in a salad bowl. Cut four ounces of bacon into dice; fry these with a finely-minced onion, and do not allow them to burn, add a little salt, if needed, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar; pour all over the lettuce and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately. Lobster Salad. Pick the meat from the body of a lobster, take out the tail part- in one piece, and cut it, with the contents of the claws, into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Chop the whites of two hard-boiled eggs small, and rub the yolks smooth. Do the same with the spawn or coral of the lobster, but mix the soft part and any bits with the sauce. Pour the sauce into the bowl, put in a layer cf shred lettuce and small salad, and place the slices of lobster, wirn hard-boiled eggs SALADS. 28d quartered and interspersed, with sliced beetroot, cucumber, etc., on the top. Repeat in the same manner till the bowl is full, sprinkling the egg and coral over and between the layers. To ornament, reserve some of the hard-boiled eggs, yolks and whites, arrange these with the coral, beetroot, and sliced lobster, so that the colors may contrast well. Before serving, pour some Mayonnaise sauce over the top. Game Salad. Take the remains of cold cooked game, pick up fine, and cover with a dressing made as follows: Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg and mix it smoothly with a tablespoonful of salad oil; stir in a little salt and pepper, a little made mustard, a dessertspoonful of walnut catsup, and three dessertspoonfuls of vinegar. Orange Salad, A very simple dish made of tart oranges. Some peeled and sliced and some sliced unpeeled, gai'nished with one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a little Cayenne pepper. This is a nice dish for breakfast, or with game or cold meats. The oil, lemon, juice and pepper should be mixed in a dish and poured over the oranges. Potato Salad. Take some cold boiled potatoes and slice very thin; add to them three hard-boiled eggs, also sliced thin; choj) one small, fresh onion. In a glass bowl or salad dish put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of eggs, and sprinkle over tliem a little chopped onion, salt and pep- per. For dressing, take the yolk of a raw egg and stir into it half a teaspoonful of made mustard. Beat into it, drop by drop, three tablespoonfuls of sweet cream; add one tablespoonful of strong vinegar and the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. If needed for supper make at noontime. Flakes of cold boiled salmon, cod, or halibut, substituted for the eggs, or added with them, Avill improve the salad. 19 290 SALADS. Salmon Salad. One can of fresh salmon, four bunches of celery; chop as for chicken salad; mix with the salmon, and pour salad dressing over it. Summer Salad. Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin slices, and half a pound of white, fresh lettuce; put in a salad bowl, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half that quantity of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and four of good salad oil. Stir all together lightly with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready to serve. Chaptal, a French chemist, says the dressing of a salad should be saturated with oil, and seasoned with pepper and salt, before the vinegar is added; it results from this process that there can never be too much ^•inegar, for, from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared with the oil, what is more than useful will fall to the bottom of the bowl, the salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar, but in the oil, by which means it is more equally distributed throughout the salad. Russian" Salad. Any three kinds of vegetables may be used — carrots, turnips and beets; string beans, carrots and turnips; or carrots, turnips and parsnips. The vegetables should be cut in slices about one and a half inches thick. These slices should be cut into cylin- der-shaped pieces. This could be done with an apple-corer or with a knife. These pieces should be put in dishes, keeping each vege- table separate. As they are cut throw the pieces into cold water; take from the cold water and put into boiling water containing a spoonful of salt to a quart of water. Boil each vegetable by itself and boil until tender; drain off the juice and put the pieces into cold water until they are thoroughly cold. They are then ready to use for the salad. Beets must not be peeled or cut. When boiled tender the skins should be taken off by rubbing in a towel as soon as cool enough to handle, and then cut in pieces like the other vegetables. The pieces left after cutting out what is wanted can SALADS. 291 ibe saved by putting them in cold salt water. Pease, beans, spinach, and all vegetables, can be kept green by boiling and putting them in salt cold water until wanted to use. The dressing for the Russian salad is made plain, like that of orange salad, being a table- spoonful of lemon- juice or vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of salad ■oil, salt and Cayenne pepper. It is best not to put on the di'essing Hntil ready to serve. Sidney Smith's Receipt for Salad Dressing. Two boiled potatoes, strained through a kitchen siev«s^ Softness and smoothness to the salad give; Of mordant mustar^ take a single spoon — Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; Yet deem it not, though man of taste, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt. Four times the spoon, with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; True taste requires it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. Oh, great and glorious! oh, herbaceous meat! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat; Back to the world he'd turn his Aveary soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl. Vegetables and Salads. Upon the washing of green vegetables for salads much of their excellence depends; they should be shaken about without breaking in a large pan of cold water well salted, since the action of the salt will destroy all the minute inhabitants of their fresh green coverts, and, once dead, from sheer force of gravity they will fall to the tottom of the water. When the salad plants are free from sand 292 SALADS. and insects they should be shaken without breaking their leaves, in a colander, a wire basket, or a dry napkin until no moisture adheres to them; then they may be used at once or kept until wanted in a very cold, dark place. Water-cress Salad. Gather the water-cress when young, cleanse it thoroughly in salt and water, and serve as fresh as possible. Place it in a bowl, either alone or mixed with other salad i)lants, and toss in lightly a simple salad sauce. When served at breakfast, water-cress is best sent to the table as it is, fresh and crisp. Salad Dressing. Take half a pint of vinegar and let it get hot; then beat up two *ggs, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of mustard, a little salt and pepper, and four table- epoonfuls of melted butter; stir this in tlie vinegar and let the whole boil up till it is like custard, then mix it with whatever you iiave for a salad. It is good for potatoes, meat or fish. Salad Dressing, No. 2. Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, rubbed very fine and smooth, one teaspoonful English mustard, one of salt, the yolks of two raw eggs beaten into the other, dessertspoonful of fine sugar. Add very fresh sweet oil, poured in by very small quantities, and beaten as long as the mixture continues to tliicken; tlien add vinegar till as thin as desired. If not hot enough with mustard, add a little Cayenne pepper. CHAPTER XXII. 0oup0, Sauces anh foxccnnats. Soups. N THE wealthy families, soup is considered a necessity, and, as a matter of course, forms part of the dinner. Amongst the middle classes it is more usually served than it used to be, and is, year by year, increasingly api)reciated; but amongst the lower classes it is all but scorned; and mistresses of small households will testify that the maid-of-all-work, who, when at home is half starved instead of being properly fed, will consider herself most hardly used if part of the provision of the day's dinner consists of a portion of wholesome soup. This opinion is, of course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both nourish- ing and wholesome, and it may also be prepared economically. With attention and a little trouble, it may be made from very inexpensive materials, and considering that when soup has been served, smaller inroads are made into the joint, the frugal house- keeper who has once calculated the difference in cost of a dinner consisting of an economically made soup, meat and vegetables, and one of meat and vegetables only, will never object to the introduction of soup at her table on account of the expense. Soup may be made of a large variety of different articles, including meat of all kinds, bones, game, and poultry; fish, shell-fish, all kinds of vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles, milk, eggs, etc. The basis of all soup is stock. Instructions in making this will be found in its proper place, and it will, therefore, not be considered 293 204 SOUPS, SA.UCES, AND FORCEMEATS. here. Directions for making various soups will be found under their several headings; nevertheless, it may be found useful if a few rules of universal application are here given as an assistance in their manufacture. There are three kinds of soups — celery soup, thick soup and purees. A puree is made by rubbing the ingredients of which it is. composed through a sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened by the addition of various thickening ingredients. These soups are best suited to the winter season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and adapted for use in the summer months. In making soup it is most important that every culinary article used should be perfectly clean. The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims and the handles particularly require attention. The lid of the saucepan should never be removed over a smoky fire. The meat used should be freshly killed, and should be as lean as it can be procured; it should never be washed. The bones should be broken u]d into small pieces. Cold water should be put upon fresh meat and bones; boiling water (a small quantity at a time) upon meat or vegetables that have been fried or browned. As it is very important that no fatty particles, should be left to float on the surface of the soup, this should be made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, so that the fat may be removed after it has grown cold. Soup should be simmered very softly till it is done enough. A large fire and quick boiling are the great enemies of good soup. In flavoring soup, the cook should be careful to add the seasoning ingredients in moderation and grad- ually, especially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, spices, herbs, salt and Cayenne. An overdose of salt has spoilt many a dish of soup, while a deficiency thereof has again and again nullified the effect of the most delicate combination of flavors. As a general rule, two ounces of salt will suflice for a gallon of soup stewed with large quantities of vegetables; an ounce and a half only will be needed if the vegetables are omitted, or if a small quantity only is used. It should be remembered that salt and all seasonings can be added when they cannot be taken out. For flavoring purposes. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 295 aromatic seasoning of lierbs, and spices, and herb-powders for flavoring soups, Avill be found of great use. AVhatever ingredients are added to soup, Avliether farinaceous articles, such as rice, ver- micelli, macaroni, etc., or vegetables, all should be partially boiled in plain water before they are put into the liquor. This will insure their being perfectly clean and bright. The flavor of rich brown soups will be brought out better if a small piece of sugar be added to it. This must not be used for Avhite soups. Cream or milk, when put with soups, should be boiled separately, strained, and added boiling. If, instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg are used, the egg must on no account be boiled in the liquor. Either it must be mixed thoroughly with a little of the soup which has cooled for a minute, then be stirred into the rest, or, better still, it must be put into the soup tureen, a spoonful of the soup mixed with the milk stirred into it, and the rest added gradually. If soups are to be kept for a few days they should be boiled up every clay, according to the state of the weather, put into freshly- scalded dry earthenware crocks or pans and kept in a cool place; cover with a piece of gauze. Soup should never be kept in metal vessels. Stock. Stock is the basis of all meat sauces, soups and purees. It is really the juice of meat extracted by long and gentle simmering, and in making it, it should be remembered that the object to be aimed at is to draw the goodness of the material out into the liquor. It may be prepared in various ways, richly and expensively, or economically. All general stock, or stock which is to be used for miscellaneous purposes, sliould be simply made, that is, all flavoring ingi-edients should be omitted entirely until its use is decided upon. The stock will then keep longer than it would do if vegetables, herbs, and spices were boiled in it, besides which the flavoring can be adapted to its special jsurpose. To ensure its keeping, stocks should be boiled and skimmed every day in summer, and every ©ther day in winter. The pan and lid used in making it should bo 296 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. scrupulously clean. A tinned iron pan is the best for tlie purpose. Those who wish to practice economy should procux-e a digester, which is a kind of stock-pot made with the object of retaining the goodness of the materials, and preventing its escape by steam, when ready stock should be kept in an earthenware vessel, and never allowed to cool in a metal pan. Before being used, skim off all fat. Excellent stock is constantly made with the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, with the addition or not of a little fresh meat, or a portion of extract of meat. In a house where meat is regularly used, a good cook will never be without a little stock. Broken remnants of all kinds will find their way to the stock-pot, and will not be thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have been made to yield to the utmost whatever of flavor and goodness they possessed. When fresh meat is used it is better for being freshly killed. The liquor in which fresh meat, has been boiled should always be used as stock. Bean Soup. Soak one and a half pints of beans in cold water over night. In the morning drain off the Avater, wash the beans in fresh water and put them into a soup kettle with four quarts of good beef stock, from which all the fat has been. rem,oved. Set it where it will boil slowly but steadily until dinner, or three hours at the least. Two hours before dinner slice in an onion and a carrot. Some think it improved by adding a little tomato. If the l)eans are not liked whole, strain tiirough a colander and send to the table hot. Asparagus Soup. Select about two dozen of good asparagus stalks; boil these thoroughly in enough water to cover them; a quarter of an onion boiled with the asparagus is an improvement. When tender, take the asparagus out of the water, saving the water,- and removing the onion; cut the asparagus into small pieces, of course only the tender part, and put them in a mortar, adding a little of the water; must be pounded until jjerfectly smooth; now take some sifted SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 297 •flour, a dessertspoonful, a bit of butter as big as an i^g'^, and a very little pulverized sugar; mix well, and then put on the fire until it melts, stirring all the time; add this to the pounded asparagus and the rest of the water; when it has boiled a te-w minutes, mix the yolk of one egg with a tumblerful of cream, and add this; if properly made, it wants no straining; use salt and j^epper to taste, and a very little nutmeg; one stalk of asparagus may be left, which may be cut in thin slices, and added last. Beef Soup. Boil a soi;]) bone about four hours; then take out meat into a chopping-bowl; put the bones back into the kettle. Slice very thin one small onion, six potatoes, and three turnips into the soup; boil until all are tender. Have at least one gallon of soup when done. It is irauroved by adding crackers, rolled, or noodles, just before taking oflF. Take the meat that has been cut from the bones, chop fine Avhile wai'm, season with salt and peppei', add one cup of soup, saved out before putting in the vegetables; pack in a dish, and slice down for tea or lunch when cold. Cosniox Soup. Take shank or neck of beef or meat of fowls; cut fine; crack the bones; put in a pot and stew slowly several hours, until all the meats are cooked to shreds. Pour on a little boiling water and keep boiling until nearly ready to serve; skim off all grease; add vegetables, potatoes, carrots, barley or rice as you may prefei' — the vegetables having been previously cooked by themselves — and then add a little butter to give it richness. Clam Soup. Select five large, plump clams, and after chopping them finely; add the liquor to the meat. To every dozen allow a quart of cold water, and, putting meat, liquor and water into a clean vessel, allow them to simmer gently, but not boil, about one and one-half hours. Every particle of meat should bo so well cooked that you seem to 298 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. have only a thick broth. Season to taste and pour into a tureen in which a few slices of well-browned toast have been placed. If desired, to every two dozen of clams allow a cup of new milk and one egg. Beat the latter very light, add slowly the milk, beat hard a minute or so, and when the soup is removed from the fire, stir the egg and milk into it. Corn Soup. Twelve ears of corn scraped and the cobs boiled twenty minutes in one quart of water. Remove the cobs and put in the corn and boil fifteen minutes, then add two quarts of rich milk. Season witli salt, pepper and butter, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Boil the whole ten minutes and turn into a tureen in which the yolks of three eggs have been well beaten. Frexch Vegetable Soup. To a leg of lamb of moderate size take four quarts of water. Of carrots, potatoes, onioiis, tomatoes, cabbage and turnips, take a cup each, chopped fine; salt and pepper to taste. Let the lamb be boiled in this water. Let it cool; skim off all fat that rises to the top. The next day boil again, adding the chopped vegetables. Let it boil three hours the second day. Egg Sottp. Boil a leg of lamb about two hours in water enough to cover it. A-fter it has boiled about an hour and when carefully skimmed, add one-half cup of rice, and pepper and salt to taste. Have ready in your tureen two eggs well beaten; add the boiling soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly. Serve the lamb Avith drawn butter, garnished with parsley and hard-boiled eggs cut into slices. Chicken Soup. Boil a pair of chickens with great care, skimming constantly and keeping them covered with water. When tender, take out the chicken and remove the bone. Put a large lump of butter into a spider, dredge the chicken meat well with flour, and lay in the hot SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 29?' pan; fry a nice brown, and keep hot and dry. Take a pint of the chicken water, and stir in two large spoonfuls of curry powder, two of butter and one of flour, one teaspoonf ul of salt and a little Cay- enne; stir until smooth, then mix it with the broth in the pot. "When well mixed, simmer five minutes, then add the browned chicken. Serve with rice. Cabbage Soup. Put into your soup kettle a couple of pounds of sweet bacon or- pork that has not been too long in salt. Add, if you like, a bit of knuckle of veal, or mutton, or beef, or all thi*ee; skim well as they come to a boil. Shred into a pail of cold water the hearts of one or two cabbages, some carrots, turnips, celery and leeks. When the soup boils, throw all these in. When the vegetables are tender without falling to pieces, the soup is done. You may thicken vith a few mashed, boiled potatoes. Simmer the meat two hours before adding the vegetables. Geeen Pea Soup. Boil a pint of green pease in water with salt, a head of lettuce, an onion, a carrot, a few leaves of mint, and a strip of parsley, some pepper and salt to taste, and a lump of sugar. When thoroughly done, strain off the liquor and pass the pease, etc., through a hair sieve; add as much of the liquor as will bring it to the right con- sistency; put the soup in a saucepan with a small pat of fresh butter; let it boil up, and serve with dice-shaped bread fried in. butter. Gumbo Soup. Cut up a pair of good-sized chickens, as for a fricassee; flour them well, and put into a pan with a good-sized piece of butter,, and fry a nice brown; then lay them in a soup-pot, pour on three quarts of hot water, and let them simmer slowly for two hours. Braid a little flour and butter together for a thickening, and stir in a little pepper and salt. Strain a quart or three pint^ q£ oysteru^. ■ 300 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. and add the juice to the soup. Next add four or five slices of cola boiled ham, and let all boil slowly together for ten minutes. Just before you take up the soup, stir in two large spoonfuls of finely- powdered sassafras leaves, and let it simmer five minutes, then add your oysters. If you have no ham, it is very nice without it. Serve In a deep dish, and garnish the dish with rice. * Plain Gumbo Soup. Take a piece of ham half the size of your hand, and a knuckle of veal} put them in a pot with two quarts of cold water; simmer «lo>wly two or three hours, then add two quarts of boiling water. Twenty minutes before serving, put in one small can of okra and as many oysters as you please. Season to taste. Lobster Soup. One large lobster; pick all the meat from the shell and chop fine; take one quart of milk and one pint of water, and, when boiling, add the lobster, nearly a pound of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a tablespoonf ul of flour. Boil ten minutes. Macaroni Soup. Six pounds of beef put into four quarts of water, with one large onion, one carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery, and boiled three or four hours slowly. Next day take oflf the grease and pour into the soup-kettle, season to taste with salt, and add a pint of macaroni broken into small pieces, and two tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. Half to three-quarters of an hour will be long enough to boil the second day. Macaroni, or Vermicelli Soup. Two small cai'rots, four onions, two turnips, two cloves, one tablespoonf ul salt; pepper to taste. Herbs — marjoram, parsley and thyme; any cooked or uncooked meat. Put the' soup bones in enough water to cover them; when they boil, skim them and add the vegetables. Simmer three or four hours, then strain through * colander and put back in the saucepan to re-heat. Boil one-half SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 301 pound of macaroni until quite tender, and place in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it — the last thing. Vermicelli will only need to be soaked a short time — not boiled. Mock Terrapin Soup. For the mock terrapin soup, take one and one-fo\irth pounds of calf's liver and put in salt boiling water for half an hour; add small herbs, one-half dozen grains of pepper, one teaspoonf ui of cloves, a few slices of onion, carrot, etc. When the vegetables are done, take them out and mash by putting them through a colander or sieve. Make a Spanish sauce of salt pork or bacon, fried enough to get the fat out of it; put into the fat a little slice of onion, a little celery, one-half dozen peppers, one-half cup of tomato, and cook brown. Take a teaspoonful of salad oil, a yolk of a hard- boiled egg, dust of Cayenne pepper, roll to paste, and make into small, round balls; put these into Spanish sauce, then put the sance into the soup. When they come to the top, skim them out. Put in the tureen a glass of wine and slice of lemon, and jjour in ther soup; then cut the calf's liver into small bits and add it. Mock Turtle Soup. Clean a calf's head well and let it stand in salt and water two or three hours; then soak it in fresh water. Put it to boil in cold, water, and when sujfEciently cooked, separate the meat from the bone. Strain the broth, cut the meat in small pieces, and add it to thfc broth; sea°on with salt and Worcester sauce, both of which are particularly suited to this soup. Next take one pound of suet, and two pounds of veal, chopped fine, with sufficient bread crumbs. Sea- soning as above, make some forcemeat balls and fry them in butter j chop three hard-boiled eggs fine, add these and a glass of wine. MuTTOx Soup. Boil a leg of mutton from two to three hours, and season with salt, pepper and about a tablospoonful of summer savory rubbed, dne, add rice or noodles as desired. 302 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. Mushroom Soup. Take a good quantity of mushrooms, cut off the earthy end, and pick and wash them. Stew them with some butter, pepper, and salt in a little good stock till tender; take them out, and chop them up quite small; prepare a good stock as for any other soup, and add it to the mushrooms and the liquor they have been stewed in. Boil all together and serve. If white soup be desired, use tha white button mushrooms and a good veal stock, adding a spoonful of cream or a little milk, as the color may require. Noodles for Soup. Beat one egg light ; add a pinch of salt, and flour enough to mak«, a stiff dough; roll out in a very thin sheet, dredge with flour to keep from sticking, then roll up tightly. Begin at one end and fihave down fine, like cabbage for slaw. Okra Gumbo. Cut one chicken; wash, dry and flour it thoroughly; salt and pepper; fry very brown in a skillet with a lump of lard large as an ^gg- Put it into your soup kettle with five quarts of water; add one onion cut up, and let it boil two hours; add two dozen okra pods, and let it boil another hour. Season to taste and serve with rice. Ox-Tail Soup. Take two tails, wash, and put into a kettle with about one gallon of cold water and a little salt; skim off the broth. When the meat is well cooked, take out the bones, and add a little onion, carrot and tomatoes. It is better made the day before using, so that the fat can be taken from the top. Add vegetables next day, and boil An hour and a half longer. Oyster Soup. Two quarts of oysters, three pints of new milk, three ounces of 't>utter, one and one-half ounces of flour, salt and pepper to tast^ SOUPS, SAUCES. AND FORCEMEATS. 303 and mace, if liked. Put the milk over boiling water; drain the oysters and put the liquor in a saucepan on the stove; wash the oysters and remove every particle of shell that may adhere to them. When the milk is hot add the butter and flour, rubbed smoothly together and thinned with a little of the milk; let it cook, stirring slowly, until slightly thickened; the liquor, which must be well boiled, skimmed and hot, may then be added, and after that, the drained oysters. As soon as they are well puffed and the edges somewhat curled, serve the soup. Half a pint of rich cream is a great improvement and may be used instead of the butter. Serve ivith them a plate of small crackers, crisped in the oven. Potato Soup. Boil a half dozen potatoes, and mash thoroughly, mixing with it a quart of stock, seasoning with salt and pepper; boil it for five minutes, removing scum; add to this a tumblerful of milk last, and sei've after the soup has come again to the boil; must be perfectly smooth. Turkey Soup. Take the turkey bones and boil three-quarters of an hour in iv^ater enough to cover them; add a little summer savory and celery ■chopped fine. Just before serving, thicken with a little flour (browned), and season with pepper, salt, and a small piece of butter. Southern Gumbo Fela. Take an onion and cut it up fine; have the lar\ quite hot, then drop the onion in and let it fry a light brown; dust in two table- spoonfuls of flour and stir all the time to keep from burning, and in a few minutes it will be brown; pour in boiling water as much as will serve the family, allowing for boiling down; have a nice fat chicken cut up, put it in the pot and let it boil until tender; take fifty oysters from th liquor and strain it to remove all pieces of shell; put the liquor in a stewpan, let it boil up once, then skim and put the liquor in the pot, season with salt, black and red pepper, ^Iso a 304 SOUPS. SAUCES. AND FORCEMEATS. small piooo ot" garlii*; al'tor K'ltiui^; it hoW sou\o tinu\ luU the oy!Stci"s; take two tablespoon lu Is of t'ola ami ilust in, stirring all tl'o time; as soon as it boils onoo it is roailv to sorve; always servo with boiled vice. Fela is pivpareil by our luilians. anil is simplv the young leaves ol" the sassafnk^, ilrieJ in the sluule, ami pulverizeil with a few leaves of the sweet bay. In the suninier, young i>kra poils are used in plaee of fela. Tomato Son*. Seven good-sized tomatoes to two quarts of milk; stew and sea- sou tomatoes highly with salt and pepper; have tlie milk hot; break into it a few eraekers; stir in a large lump o( butter; pour into a tureen, and just as you take to the table, add tomatoes, mixing them well together. ToM.vro Sore, No. -. Otie quart of toniatoes, one onion, two vninees of tlour, four ounees. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of salt, one-third of a teaspoonful of Cayenne ]>epp. r. three pints or water, one-half pint of milk. Roil the tomatoes and onion in Mater for three-quar- ters of an l\our. Add salt, pepper, sugar, butter, and tlour; rub smoothly tv>gether like thin eream; boil ten minutes; boil milk separately. When both are boiling, pour the milk into the toma- toes, to pivvent curdling. Serve with squares of toasted bread. Green Tiutt.e So\r. A glass of ^ladeira, two onions, buneli of sweet herbs, juice of one lemon, five quarts of water. Chop up the coarser parts of the turtle meat with the entrails and bones. Add to them four quart* of water, and stew four hours with the herbs, onions, pepper and salt. Stew very slowly, but do not let it cease to boil durijig this time. At the end of four houi-s strain the soup, and add the tiner parts of the turtle and the gre.>n fat, which has been simmered for one hour in two quarts of water Thicken with browned flour; return to the sotip-pot, and simmer gently aat hour longer. If there SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 30.-» are eggs in the turtle, boil them in a separate vessel for four hours, and throw into the soup before taking it up. If not, put '.n force- meat balls; then the juice of the lemon and wine; beat up once and pour out. Some cooks add the finer meat before straining, boiling all together for five hours; then strain, thicken, and put in ihe green fat, cut into lumps an inch long. This makes a handsomer soup than if the meat is left in. For the mock eggs, take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and one raw egg well be{.ten. Rub tho boiled eggs into a paste with a teaspoonful of butter, bind wi'h a raw egg, roll into pellets the size and shape of turtle eggs, and Iny in boiling water for two minutes before dropping into the souj.- Soyer's Cheap Sours. Soyer, in his " Culinary Campaign," has given recipes foi m-^icing palatable soups, which he says will not cost more \.han u .ent a quart in London. Here is one of them: Take two oanceu '/f drip- ping, quarter of a pound of solid meat, cut into pieces t ,ie inch square; quarter of a pound of onions, sliced thin; same o| turnips (the peel will do) or a whole one cut into slices; two ounce; of leeka (green tops will do) sliced thin; three ounces of celeiy; three- quarters of a pound of common flour; half a j^ound of pearl barley, or one pound of Scotch; three ounces of salt; quarter of an ounce of brown sugar; two gallons of water. First put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan capable of holding two gallons of water, with a quai'ter of a pound of leg-beef without bo le, cut into square pieces of about an inch; and two middling-s'zed onions, peeled and sliced; then set the saucepan over the fire, und stir the contents around for a few minutes with a wooden or iron spoon until fried lightly brown. Have then ready washed the peelings of two turnips, fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of two leeks (the whole of which, I must observe, are always thrown away). Having cut the above vegetable into small pieces, throw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring them occasionally over the fin^ for another ten minutes; then add one quart of cclu wr.t.r and three-quarters of a pound of com- 20 306 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 4ion flour, and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all well together; then add seven quarts of hot water, seasoned with three ounces •)f salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirring occasion- ally until boiling, and allowing it to simmer gently for three hours; at the end of which time the barley will be perfectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of Parliament, and several ladies, who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing. The soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but within a flat vessel, when the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then until nearly cold, or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of fermentation. This does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the sar^e evil exists in the strongest of stock, or sauce, if not stirred or confined in a warm place — a fact known to every first-rate cook. The expense may come to tliree farthings per quart in London; but as almost every thing can be had at less cost in the country, the price of the soup will be still more reduced. In that case, a little additional meat might be added. By giving with this a small portion of bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a trifling cost; and no one, it is to be hoped, here after, would hear of the dreadful calamity of starvation. Soup, No. 2. — Same Cost. Quarter of a pound of beef cut into pieces one inch square; two ounces of dripping, or melted suet, quarter of a pound of turnips, or carrots, cut into fragments half an inch square, four drops essence of meat, one and a half pounds of maize flour, three ounces of salt, quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonf ul of black pepper, ground fine. Take two ounces of either drippings, Amer- ican lard, or suet, to which add the turnips and carrots; fry for ten minutes; add one quart of cold water, and the. meal, well mixed, and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil five hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one-quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teasjDoonful of black pepper, two drops of essence SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 307 of garlic, one drop of essence of mint, a little celery; stir quickly, and serve directly. By adding a pound of potatoes to this, a superior soup will be the result. Aspic Jelly fou Garnishing. Take two pints of nicely-flavored stock, of a clear, firm jelly; put this into a saucepan with a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a glass of sherry. Let it boil; then stir into an ounce ■of the best gelatine, which has been soaked in a little cool water. When again cool, add the whisked whites of two eggs; let it boil; then set back to settle; strain through a jelly-bag until quits clear, and pour it on a dish which has been standing in cold water Cut it into dice for garnishing. Aspic Jelly, Stock. Put a knuckle-bone of veal, a knuckle-bone of ham, a calPs foot, a large onion with four cloves stuck in, one large carrot, and a bunch of savory herbs, in two quarts of water, and boil gently till it is reduced rather more than half; strain, and put it aside to cool. Yery carefully remove every particle of fat or sediment, and place the jelly in a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the whites of two eggs; keep stirring until it nearly boils, which may be known by its becoming white; then draw it back and let it simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes; put on the cover, let it stand to settle, and strain through a jelly bag until it is quite clear. Put it into a mold. Bechamel Sauce. As white stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be pre- pared first. Boil down an old fowl, two or three pounds of the knuckles of veal and three of very lean hjun, with four carrots, two onions, one blade of mace, some white pepper-corns, two table- spoonfuls of salt and an ounce of butter, in four or five quarts of "water. Cut up the fowl and veal, and put them with the ham ':^ 308 SOUPS. SAUCES, A^sD FOllCEMEATS. simincr in a small quantity of water till tlio juices are extracted; then put in the full quantity of water, about three and one-half quarts, to the other ingredients. Let the liquid simmer fzoni four to five hours; skim and strain till clear, when it is ready for the bechamel. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot with a pint of cream, and when well blended, let it simmer in a carefully cleaned pan for four or five minuics. Make one pint of the stock hot and pour it to the cream; simmer slowly for ten minutes, or until it thickens. If too thick, add a little stock. Anchovy Sauce. An easy way of making anchovy sauce is to stir two or three teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste of anchovy (which may be bought at your grocers) into a pint of melted butter; let the 3auce boil a few minutes and flavor with lemon-juice. Bread Sauce. Take one pint of white stock; boil Avith an onion, a little macey pepper-corns and salt; strain and pour it over six ounces of bread crumbs; boil for ten minutes and add three tablespoonfuls of cream. Bkown Sauce. Melt two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and add one ounce of flour, stirring until it is of a brown color. Then add sufficient boiling stock to render it of a cream-like consistency, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cucumber Sauce. Take three young cucumbers, slice them rather thickly, and fry them in a little butter till they are lightly browned; dredge them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer them till tender in as much good brown gravy as will cover them. White sauce or melted butter may be substituted for the gravy if these are more suitable to the dish with which the cucumber sauce is to be served. Time, about a quarter of an hour to simmer the cucumbers. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 309 Chili Sauce. Twelve ripe tomatoes, pared, two large peppers, chopped fine, one large onion, chopped fine, two cups of vinegar, one tablespoon, ful salt, one cup brown sugar, one teaspoonful each of allspice, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Boil all together. Caper Sauce. Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour; mix well; pour on boiling water until it thickens; add one hard-boiled egg^ chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls of capers. Celery Sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, melt it, and add two heads of celery cut up into inch pieces; stir the celery in the pan till it is quite tender^ add salt and pepper, with a little mace. Mix a tablespoonful of flour in a cup of stock and simmer half an hour. A cup of cream may be used instead of stock. Egg Sauce. Take yolks of two eggs, boiled hard; mash them with a table- spoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and three of salad oil. A tablespoonful of catsup improves this for some. This sauce is very nice for boiled fish- Fisn Sauce, One-quarter of a pound of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice of two lemons. Cream the butter; mix all well together. The Hollandaise Sauce. For one pint: one tablespoonful of salt, same of butter and flour; put them in a saucepan and put over the fire, and stir until the butter is melted. Add gradually one pint of hot water, about half a cup at a time, and stir each time for a minute while it is boiling; season with white pepper, nutmegs, and make sure it is cooked. 310 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. One great difficulty with sauces is thoy are raw. This makes the white sauce, which is the basis of many sauces. Add the yolks of two or three eggs, one tahlespoonful of lemon-juice, or vinegar; three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. These may be added by putting them together in a separate dish and dipping a few spoonfuls of the white sauce upon them and stirring thoroughly, and then pour- ing back into the sauce. In this consistency the sauce makes a fine dressing for lobster or chicken salad. This sauce is suitable for any kind of boiled fish. Hot Sauce for Meats. Four onions, two cups of sugar, thirty-two tomatoes, one quart of vinegar, four peppers, two tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoon- fuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of cloves, three tablespoonfuls of red pepper; cook, strain and bottle. Horse-Radisii Sauce. Two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, two of white sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a gill of vinegar; mix and pour over gi-ated horse-radish. Excellent with beef. Mushroom Sauce. To make a pint of mushi-oom sauce for the fillet of beef, use one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; put over the fire and stir Txntil brown. Then put in half a pint of water or chicken broth and half a pint of essence of mushroom or the liquor found in a can of mushrooms; stir till the sauce is perfectly smooth, season with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Put in the mushrooms and boil two minutes; take oif, put in "• cjlass of sherry or Madeira wine, and pour around the fillet of beef. Mint Sauce. Mix one tablespoonful of white sugar to half a cup of good vin- egar; add the mint and let it infuse for half an hour before sending to the table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 311 Mustard Sauce. One cup of sugar, one cup of vinegar, one tablespoonful of but- ter, four eggs and one tablespoonful of mustard; beat the eggs well; mix all together; turn into a new tin pail or basin and boil in water same as custard, only to a cream, not thick. Strain through a thin cloth and it is done. Prepared Mustard. Two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one of flour; mix thoroughly while dry. Have a cup two-thirds full of strong vinegar ; fill with water, stir the flour and mustard into it and let it boil until as thick as custard; remove from the fire and add a tablesjDoonful of sugar. Made Mustard. Pour a very little boiling water over three tablespoonfuls of mustard; add one saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of olive oil, stirred slowly in, and one tablespoonful of sugar; add the yolk of an egg; beat well together, and pour in vinegar to taste. It is best eaten next day. Mayonnaise Sauce. A mixture of egg yolks, oil, vinegar or lemon-juice. The prin- cipal point to be attended to in preparing this sauce is the mode of mixing, which demands time, patience and care. Break the yolk of a fresh egg into a bowl with a saltspoonful of pepper and salt mixed. Beat it till thick, then add from time to time during the mixing, two or three drops of the best olive oil until about four ounces have been used and the mixture is thick and .yellow. When eight teaspoonfuls of oil have been used, stir in one teaspoonful of white wine vinegar, and continue adding oil and vinegar in these proportions until all the oil is used. The yolk of one egg would be sufiicient for a pint of oil and vinegar in propor- tion. The addition of a few drops of lemon-juice makes mayon- naise look creamy. Mayonnaise will keep a long time if bottled closely and kept in a cool place. •312 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMKATS. MaITUK i/JIoTKI, JiuTTKR. Knead together (on a })late witli the })oint of a knife) equal quantities of chopped parsley and fresli Latter, Add pepjjcr, salt And a little lemon-juice. Keep in a cool place. When a dish is *aid to be a la Maitre d'llotel it is generally served with this butter. Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a small enameled saucepan, and stir to it, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of Hour; continue stir- fMig five or ten miinites, until tlu> butter and flour are well blended, when add, also by degrees, a quarter of a pint of boiling cream and ft quarter of a pint of good veal stock, also boiling; add a U'w epoonfuls of each at a time and stir well, allowing the saui-e to simmer a minute or two between each addition. When jjcrfi'ctly smooth, put in the strained juice of a lemon, or, if preferred, a tablespoonful of Chili vini'gar, a little pepper, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. The yolks of two eggs are a great improvi'incnt to this sauce, and are almost necessary when it is served with fish; but in that case only half the quantity of flour phould be used, as the eggs help to thicken it. Oyster Sauce. Prepare some nice drawn butter; scald the oysters in a little Abater and mix them with the butter; mix well and let tlie sauce er, salt, and a little nutmeg if that is agreeable. Cream OAnnACE. Heat together the yolks of two I'ggs, one-half cup of sugar, one- Tialf cup of vinegar, butter size of an egg, salt and a little Cayenne pepper. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir until it boils; then stir in one cup of cream; let it boil, and pour over the cabbagd while hot. Cabbage a la Cauliflower. Cut the cabbage- fine as for slaw; put it into a stewpan, covci' with water and kec|> crlosely covered; when tender, drain off the water; put in a small piece of butter with a piece of salt, one-half a cup of cream, or one cup of milk. Leave on the stove a fe^V minutes before serving. Boiled Cabbage. Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages; Avash them thoroughly and lay 324 VEGETABLES. them for a few minutes in water, to which a tablespoonful of vin- egar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Drain them in a colander; have ready a large pan of boiling hot water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbage boil quickly until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. Take them up as soon as they are done, drain them thoroughly and serve. Time to boil: young sum- iner cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes; large cabbages, half an hour or more. Baked Cabbage. Cook as for boiled cabbage, after which drain and set aside until cold. Chop fine, add two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, pepper, salt, three tablespoonfuls rich cream; stir well and bake in a buttered dish until brown. Eat hot. Hot Slaw. One small, firm head of cabbage, shred fine, one cup of vinegar, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, two table- spoonfuls of sour cream, one-half teaspoonful of made mustard, one saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of salt. Put the vinegar and all the other ingredients for the dressing, except the cream, in a saucepan and heat to a boil; pour scalding hot over the cabbage; return to the saucepan, and stir and toss until all is smoking again; take from the fire, stir in the cream, turn into a covered dish and set in hot water ten minutes before you send to the table. Cauliflower. This favorite vegetable should be cut early, while the dew is still upon it; choose those that are close and white, and of medium size.' Whiteness is a sign of quality and freshness. Great care should be taken that there are no caterpillars about the stalk, and to insure this, lay the vegetable with its head downward in cold salt and water for an hour before boiling it; or, better still, in cold vinegar and water. Trim away the outer leaves, and cut the stalks quite close. Cauliflowers are in season from the middle of June till tte middle of November. VEGETABLES. 325 Cauliflower a la Feancatse. After preparing as above, cut the cauliflower into quarters and put into a stewpan and boil until tender; drain and arrange it neatly on a dish. Pour over it melted butter. Cauliflower with Stuffing. Take a saucepan the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower and cut it into sprigs; throw those into boiling salt water for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downwards, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same of beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced chives, and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers, and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add sufficient nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently till the cauliflower are t.nder, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture. Cauliflower with Sauce. Boil a large cauliflower — tied in netting — in hot salted water, from twenty-five to thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish with the flower upwards and pour over it a cup of drawn butter in fwhich has been stirred the juice of a lemon and a half teaspoonful of French mustard, mixed up well with the sauce. Corn, for WmTER Use. Cut the corn from the cob (raw) before it gets too hard; to each gallon of cut corn add two scant cups of salt, pack tightly in a jar (don't be afraid of getting the jar too large), cover with a white cloth, put a heavy weight to keep the corn under the brine whieh 326 VEGETABLES. soon forms; now the most important part is to wash the cloth everr morning for two weeks, or the corn will taste queerly. If the corn is too salty, freshen before cooking. This is as good as canned corn, and is much easier put up. Put tomatoes in jugs and seal with good corks and sealing wax; get a large funnel, and you can put up as fast and as much as you please. Baked CoKiir. Grate one dozen ears sweet corn; one cup milk, small piece but- ter; salt, and bake in pudding dish one hour. Green Corn on the Cob. Take off the outside leaves and the silk, letting the innermost leaves remain on until after the eorn is boiled, which renders the corn much sweeter. Boil for half an hour in plenty of water, drain, and, after removing Xhe leaves, serve. Corn Oysters. Eight ears of sweet corn, grated; two cups of milk, three eggs, salt and pepper; flour enough to make a batter. Put a tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying pan and drop the mixture into the hot butter — a spoonful in a place; brown on both sides. Serve hot for breakfast or as a side dish for dinner. Stewed Corn. Stew one quart of canned corn in its own liquor, setting the vessel containing it in an outer one of hot water; should the corn be dry, add a little cold water; when tender, pour in enough milk to cover the corn, bring to a boil, and put in a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour, and salt to taste. Stew gently, stirring well,'* three or four minutes and turn into a deep dish. Keep the vessel containing the corn closely covered while it is cooking; the steam, facilitates the process and preserves the color of the corn. Stewed Cucumbers. Cut the cucumbers fully half an inch thick right through; put VEGETABLES. 327 them in a saucepan, just covering them with hot water, and let them boil slowly for a quarter of an hour, or until tender, but not so as to break them; then drain them; you want now a pint of good cream, and put your cream, with a teaspoonful of butter, in a saucepan, and when it is warm put in the cucumbers; season with a little salt and white pepper, cook five minutes, shaking the saucepan all the time, and serve hot. It is just as delicate as asparagus, and a very nice dish indeed. Celery. This vegetable imparts an agreeable and peculiar flavor to soups, sauces, etc. It is generally eaten raw, the brittle stalks with salt; but there are many ways in which it may be nicely prepared, and when cooked it is more digestible and equally palatable. When the roots are not to be had, the pounded seed is an excellent sub- stitute for flavoring. It is in season from October to February, and is better when it has been touched by the frost. Fried Celery. Cold boiled celery wiM answer for this purpose. Split the heads and dip them into cla:ihed batter, or dip them into a batter, and fry a light brown, GarnisU the dish prettily with parsley. Carrots. This vegetable should bo sorved with boiled beef. When tha carrots are young they should be washed and rubbed, not scraped, before cooking, then rubbed Avith a clean, coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots need to be cooked about half an hour, and full grown ones from one hour and a half to two hours. They are excellenf for flavoring, and contain a great amount of nourisliment. Carrots Boiled, Wash and prepare the carrots. Throw them into plenty of boiling water with salt. Keep them boiling till tender, and serve with melted butter; or they may be boiled with beef and a few placed round the dish to garnish, and the rest sent to table in a tureen. 328 VEGETABLES. Dandelions, Cut off the leaves, pick over carefully, wash thoroughly, put into boiling water and boil a half hour; drain well and put into salted boiling water and boil till tender. When done drain in a colander, season with butter, salt and pepper; or they may be boiled with ealt pork or corned beef, omitting the butter. They are good from early spring until they blossom. Endive Stewed. Strip off the outer green leaves from the heads of endive. Wash thoroughly, soak in salted water to dislodge the insects; then drain and boil for twenty-five minutes in water salted slightly. Have ready a stewpan with an ounce of butter, drain the endive and put it into the pan, and add a saltspoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. Serve hot. Egg Plant. Pare and cut in slices half an inch thick; sprinkle with salt; cover and let stand for an hour. Rinse in clear cold water; wipe each slice dry; dip first in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread crumbs. Season with pepper and salt, and fry brown in butter. Egg Plant, No. 2. Boil until quite tender, then mash and add bread crumbs, pepper, salt, onions and butter or lard; put in a pan and bake until brown. You can put in all these things to your own taste, then you can boil and mash as before; season with salt and pepper, and add a little flour or meal as you like best. Make into little cakes and fry. These are nice. They should be picked when full grown, but before they are ripe. Fricasseed Egg Plant. Having peeled and sliced the egg plants, boil them in water with a saltspoonful of salt, until they are thoroughly cooked. Drain off the water, pour in sufficient milk to cover the slices, and add a feW VEGETABLES. 320 bits of butter rolled in flour; let it simmer gently, shaking the pan over the fire till the sauce is thick, and stir in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs just before it is served. Stuffed Egg Plants. Halve and parboil. When soft enough to stick with a fork remove from the water and let cool. Then cut out the inside, being careful not to break the skin. Next take bread that has been previously soaked in water. Squeeze as dry as possible and mix with the pulp of the vegetable. Add to tha,t a good sized tomato, the juice of an onion, a little parsley and two or three eggs, season with pepper and salt, and the filling is ready for use. Before putting into the stove sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs. An- other and quicker way to make the stufllng is to mix the pulp with the juice of an onion, a tomato and a couple of eggs. Thicken with boiled rice and season to taste. Garlic. Garlic requires to be used most judiciously, or it will spoil what- ever is cooked with it. If used carefully, however, it will impart a most delicious flavor to salads and sauces; but it is so strong that, for many dishes, all that is necessary is to rub the dish which is to be sent to table sharply round with a slice of it; or, better still, to rub it on a crust of bread, and put the bread into the soup, etc., for a few minutes. A very general prejudice exists against garlic, probably on account of its being used in the same way as an onion. If it is desired to diminish the strength of the flavor, this may be done by boiling the garlic in two or three waters. Greens, Stewed. Take a bunch of fresh greens, wash in several waters; drain thenj well and throw them into plenty of fast boiling water, salted and skimmed, and boil them for ten minutes. Take them up, press the water from them, and throw them into cold Avater for half an hour; drain them, cover with stock, and add a bunch of herbs, an onion. 330 VEGETABLES. one clove, a slice of fat bacon, and a little pepper and salt. Stew very gently until tender. Serve with mutton, lamb, or veal. HOESE-BADISH AS GaRNISH. Wash and scrub the horse-radish thoroughly; let it lie for an hour in cold water; their scrape it very finely with a sharp knife; arrange it in little bunches around the dish, or, if there is gravy with the meat, put it in a small glass dish near the carver. Lettuce. There are two f?orts of lettuces, the cabbage and the cos. They >re chiefly used for salad, but may be also boiled or stewed, and tjcrved as a vegetable. They may be had all the year, but are in full season from April to September. Lettuce, Stuffed. Wash four or five large heads of lettuce; boil them in plenty of Bait and water for fifteen minutes; throw them at once into cold water, and afterwards let them drain. Open them, fill them with good veal forcemeat, tie the ends securely, and put them into a stewpan with as much good gravy as will cover them, a teaspoonf ul of salt, half a teaspoonf ul of pepper, and a teaspoonf ul of vinegar. Simmer gently for another fifteen minutes, remove the strings^ place them on a hot dish, and pour the gravy around them. Macaroni. Three long sticks of macaroni, broken in small pieces; soak in a pmt of milk two hours; grate bread and dried cheese. Put a layer of macaroni in a pudding dish; add pepper, salt and butter; then sprinkle the bread and cheese crumbs over it, and so continue until the dish is filled. Bake until brown. Macaroni as a Vegetable. - Simmer one-half pound of macaroni in plenty of water till tender, but not broken; strain off the water. Take the yolks of five and the whites of two eggs, one-half pint of cream, white meat and ham VEGETABLES. 331 chopped very fine, three spoonfuls of grated cheese; season with salt and pepper; heat all together, stirring constantly. Mix with the macaroni; put into a buttered mold and steam one hour. y^ Macaroni with Oysters. / Boil macaroni in salt water, after which draw through a colander; / take a deep earthen dish or tin; put in alternate layers of macaroni ( and oysters; sprinkle the layers of macaroni with grated cheese^ V„„3a;ke until brown. Macaroni with Tomatoes. Boil one-half pound of macaroni till tender, pour off all the water, then add one-half cup sweet cream, one-third of a cup of butter, pepper and salt; let simmer for a short time, but be careful that it does not become much broken; turn into vegetable dish;, have ready one pint stewed tomatoes, season with butter, salt and pepper, pour over the macaroni. Stewed Macaroni. Boil two ounces of macaroni in water, and drain well; put into a saucepan one ounce of butter, mix with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten with four tablespoonf uls of veal or beef stock, one gill of cream, salt and white pepper to taste; put in the macaroni, let it boil up, and serve while hot. Boiled Onions. Skin them thoroughly. Put them to boil; when they have boiled a few minutes, pour off the water and add clean cold water, and set them to boil again. Pour this away, and add more cold water, when they may boil till done. This will make them white and clear, and very mild in flavor. After they are done, pour off all the water, and dress with a little cream; salt and pepper to taste. Boil in two waters, drain, and if they are large, cut into quarters and pour over them a cup of scalding milk in which a pinch of soda, has been stirred; set over the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, half teaspoonful corn starch wet with milk, a little minced parsleyj, with pepper and salt. Simmer and pour out. •332 VEGETABLES. Boiled Okra. Put the younjy and tender pods of long, white okra into salted 'boiling water in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan (as iron discolors it), boil fifteen minutes, take off stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred; or, after boiling, slice in rings, season with butter, dip in batter and fry; season and serve; or stew an equal quantity of tomatoes and tender sliced okra, and one or two sliced green peppers; stew in porcelain kettle fifteen •or twenty minutes, season with butter, pepper and salt and serve. OxiON Ormoloo. Peel ten or twelve large white onions, steep them an hour in cold watez-j then boil them soft. Mash them with an equal quantity of boiled white potatoes, adding half a pint of milk and two or three well-beaten eggs. Stir the mixture very hard, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and bake it in a quick oven; when half done pour a little melted butter or gravy over the top. Scalloped Onions. Boil till tender six large onions ; afterward separate them with a large spoon; then place a layer of onion and a layer of grated bread crumbs alternately in a pudding dish; season with pepper and salt to taste; moisten with milk; put into the oven to brown. Wash but do not peel the onions; boil one hour in boiling water slightly salt, changing the water twice in the time; when tender, drain on a cloth, and roll each in buttered tissue paper, twisted at the top, and bake an hour in a slow oven. Peel and brown them; eerve with melted butter. Vegetable Oyster. One bunch of oysters; boil and mash. One pint sour milk, half a teaspoonful soda; flour to make a batter; add two eggs, beaten, and the oysters. Fry in hot lard — drop in spoonfuls. VEGETABLES. 333: Mock Stewed Oysters. One bunch oyster plant, eight teaspociifuls butter, a little flour or corn starch, vinegar and water for boiling, pepper and salt, one- half cup milk. Wash and scrape the oyster plant very carefully; drop into weak vinegar and water, bring quickly to a boil, and cook ten minutes; turn off the vinegar water; rinse the salsify in boiling water; throw this out and cover with more from the tea-kettle; stew gently ten minutes longer; add pepper and salt and two tablespoon- fuls of butter; stew in this until tender. Meanwhile heat in a, farina kettle the milk, thicken, add the remaining butter, and keep/ dry until the salsify is done, then transfer it to this sauce; pepper and salt; let all lie together in the inner kettle, the water in the outer at a slow boil, for five minutes; pour into a covered dish. Parsley. The foliage of parsley is of use in flavoring soups, etc.; it itf= nutritious and stimulating. Crisp Parsley. This is used for garnishing dishes. « Pick and wash young parsley, shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, and spread it on a sheet of clean paper and put in the oven. Turn the bunches frequently until they are quite crisp. Parsley is much more easily crisped' than fried. Parsley, Fried. Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly; put it into hot fat and let it remain until it is crisp; take it out immediately and drain it in a colander. If the parsley is allowed to remain in the fat one moment after it is crisp it will be spoiled. Parsley is best fried in a frying basket. Parsnips. Parsnips may be dressed in the same way as carrots, which thej^ very much resemble. When boiled, they are generally served with boiled meat, or boiled salt fish; when fried, with roast mutton, U .334 VEGETABLES. young, they require only to be washed and sci*aped before they are boiled. If old and large, the skin must be pared off, and the roots cut into quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent to the table together It should be remembered that parsnips are more quit^ly "boiled than carrots. Fried Paesnips. Boil until tender in hot water slightly salted; let them get almost cold, scrape off the skin, and cut in thick, long slices; dredge witk fleur and fry in hot dripping, turning as they brown; drain very dry in a hot colander; pepper and salt to serve. Parsnip Stew. Three slices of salt pork, boil one hour and a half; scrape five large parsnips, cut in quarters lengthwise, add to the pork and let boil one-half hour, then add a few potatoes, and let all boil together until the potatoes are soft; the fluid in the kettle should be about a cupful when ready to take off. Canned Pease. Open a can of pease an hour before cooking them, that there may be no musty, airless taste about them, and turn into a bowl. When ready for them, put on a farina-kettle — or one saucepan within another — of hot water. If dry, add cold Avater to cover them, and stew about twenty-five minutes; drain, stir in a generous lump of butter; pepper and salt. French Way of Cooking Pease. Put your pease in a nice dish, whei-e they will not turn black in cooking. Cut up fine one small head of lettuce; put in a few sprigs of parsley, tied up; salt and pepper; enough of water to cover the pease. Cook gently until tender, one and three-quarters of an hour, then drain off most of the water; dissolve one full teaspoonful of flour in water and stir in; add one-half tablespoonful of butter, one-half cup of sweet milk and one lump of sugar; cook about ten minutes; just before serving stir in one yolk of an egg, previously ibeaten with a little water. VEGETABLES. 335 No. 2. — Put some thin slices of bacon in a skillet and brown a little on both sides; then put in your i:)ease, with one large onion cut in four, one head of lettuce, and a few sprigs of parsley, tied up, water enough to cover them; salt and pepjjer (not much salt, as the bacon salts them); cook one hour. Ten minutes before serving sprinkle a little flour to thicken the gravy. Remove the bunch oi lettuce and parsley. Gkeen Pease. Boil a quart of young, freshly-gathered pease in slightly salted water until they are tender; then drain them in a colander. Melt two ounces of fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with a dessert- spoonful of flour, and add very gradually a cuj) of thick cream, or, failing this, use new milk. When the sauce boils, put in the pease, stir them until they are quite hot, and serve immediately. Potato Balls. Bake the potatoes, mash them very nicely, make them into balls, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and put them in the oven or before the fire to brown. These balls may be varied by the introduction of a third portion of grated ham or tongue. Bkowtsted Potatoes. While the meat is roasting, and an hour before it is served, boil the potatoes and take off their skins; flour them well, and put them under the meat, taking care to dry them from the drippings before they are sent to the table. Kidney potatoes are best dressed in this way. The flouring is very essential. They should always be boiled a little before being put into stews, as the first water in which they are cooked is thought to be of a poisonous quality. Potatoes when boiled, if old, should be peeled and put whole upon the gridiron until nicely broAvned. English Potato Balls. Boil some potatoes very dry; mash them as smoothly as possible; season well with salt and pepper; warm them, with an ounce of •'^•>« VEGETABLES. butter to every pound of potatoes, and a few spoonfuls of goo^ cream; let thein cool a littk', roll thein into balls; sprinkle over tliem some crushed vermicelli or macaroni, and fry them a light brown. Southern Baked Potatoes. Parboil, or take the cold ones left over from dinner; place in a deep pie pan; between each layer sprinkle sugar; over the top drop small drops of butter and more sugar, about one small cup of sugar and one spoonful of butter to a plate of potatoes. Then pour over all one-half cup of butter and set in oven to bake. The common pumpkin is delicious prepared in the same way, using, instead of sugar, syrup or molasses. The pumpkin must be thoroughly steamed before baking, and requires two hours' baking. Some cooks add spice. Cream Potatoes. Pare and cut the potatoes into small squares or rounds, cook twenty minutes in boiling water and a little salt. Turn this off, add a cup of milk, and when this bubbles up a tablespoonful of butter, with a teaspoonful of water, wet up Avith cold milk; also a little chopped parsley; simmer live minutes and pour out. Potato Croquettes. Take six boiled potatoes, pass them through a sieve; add to them three tablespoonfuls of ham grated or minced finely, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, and some chopped parsley; work into this mixture the yolks of three or four eggs, then fashion it into the shape of balls, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard, and serve with fried parsley. Potato Cake. Take potatoes, mashed ones are best, but boiled ones can be mashed, immediately after dinner, before getting too cold; add about an equal amount of flour and a smaH ))iece. of butter or lard; rub thoroughly together, roll out and cut as for biscuit — not too thick — and bake in a rather quick oven. When done to a light brown, cut open, butter and eat warm. VEGETABLES. 337" Fried Potatoes. Take cold boiled potatoes, grate them, make them into flat cakes, and fry them in btitter. You may vary these cakes by dipping them in the beaten yolk of an egg and rolling thera in bread crumbs, frying them in boiling lard. Fried Potatoes, No, 2. Raw potatoes, peel, cut in rings the thickness of a shillings or cut in one continuous shaving; throw them into cold water until you have sufficient; drain on a cloth; fry quickly in plenty of hot fat, and with as little color as possible; dry them Avell from the grease, and sprinkle with salt. When nicely done, and piled up properly, they make a fine side dish, which is alwnys eaten with great relish. Or cut a potato lengthwise the size and shape of the divisions of an orange, trim them neatly and fry ithem; they are an excellent* garnish for meat. Cold potatoes may be cut in slices somewhat less than an inch thick, and fried in like manner. They can also be fried with onions, as an accompaniment to pork chops, sliced co(i, red herring, or with a rasher of bacon. Another nice way is to boil them and let them become cold, then cut them into rather thin slices. Put a lump of fresh butter into a stewpan, add a little flour, about a teaspoonful for a moderate-sized dish; when the flour has boiled a short time in the butter add a cup of water and a little cream; boil all together; then put in the potatoes covered with chopped parsley, pepper and salt; stew them for a few minutes, aiivi then take them from the fire and send to the table. Mashed Potatoes. Steam or boil potatoes until soft, in salted water; pouf off the water and let them drain perfectly dry; sjDrinkle with salt and mash; have ready some hot milk or cream in which has been melted a piece of butter; pour this on to the potatoes, and stir unti' white and very light. 338 VEGETABLES. Potato Surprise. Scoop out tlie inside of a sound potato, leaving the skin attached At one side of the hole, as a lid. Mince finely the lean of a juicy mutton chop with a little salt and pepper; put it in the potato, fasten down the lid, and bake or roast. Before serving (in its skin) add a little hot gravy if the mince seems too dry. Potato Puff. Take two cups of cold mashed potato, and stir into it two table- spoonfuls of melted butter, beating to a white cream before adding anything else. Then put with this two eggs whipped very light and a cup of cream or milk, salting to taste. Beat all well, pour into a deep dish, and bake in a quick oven until it is nicely browned. Potato Pie. Butter a shallow pie dish rather thickly. Line the edges with a good crust, and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nut- meg. Lay over them some marrow, together with small lumps of but- ter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the pie. Puree of Potatoes. Mash them and mix while quite hot with some fine white gravy drawn from veal, together with butter and cream. The puree should be rather thin and seasoned with salt and pepper. Potato Loaves. These are very nice when eaten with roast beef, and are made of xnashed potatoes prepared without milk, by mixing them with a quantity of very finely-minced raw onions, powdered with pepper and salt; then beating up the whole with a little butter to bind it, VEGETABLES. 339 and dividing it into small loaves of a conical form, and placing them under the meat to brown; that is, when it is so nearly done as to impart some of the gravy along with the fat. Saratoga Potatoes. Pare and cut into very thin slices four large potatoes (new pota- toes are best) ; let stand for a few minutes in cold salt water, then take a handful of the potatoes, squeeze the water from them, dry in a napkin, and separating the slices, drop into a skillet of boiling lard, taking care that they do not stick together; stir till they are of a light brown color, take out with a wii'e spoon, drain well and serve immediately. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Boil the potatoes with their jackets on and allow them to cool in order to have them solid. Peel and cut into slices about a quartet of an inch thick; slice an ordinary sized onion for half a dozen potatoes. As soon as a tablespoonful of butter has melted in the pan, and the onion begun to color, put in the slices of potatoes. Stir them a little; season with salt and pepper; fry the potatoes until they are a golden brown, and then chop up a tablespoonful of parsley and sprinkle it over them just before taking them out. Old Potatoes. These can be made to look like young ones in this way: Wash some large ones and cut them into as many small slices as will fill a ■dish; boil them in two or three waters about three minutes each time, the water being put to them cold; then let them steam until tender; pour a white sauce over them. Potatoes prepared in this way have been mistaken for young ones. Tossed Potatoes. Boil some potatoes in their skins; peel them and cut into small pieces; toss them over the fire in .. mixture of cream, butter rolled in flour, pepper and salt, till they are hot and well covered with tiie eauce. 340 VEGETABIiES. Sweet Potatoes. Sweet potatoes require more time to cook than common potatoes. To Boil. — Take large, fine potatoes, wash clean, boil with the skins on in plenty of water, hut without salt. They will take at least one hour. Drain off the water and set them for a few minutos. in a tin pan before the fire, or in the stove, that they may be well dried. Peel them before sending them to the table. To Fry. — Choose large potatoes, half boil them, and then, hav- ing taken off the skins, cut the potatoes into slices and fry in butter^ or in nice drippings. To Bake. — Bake as the common potato, except give them a longer time. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Select those which are nearly of a size, not too large; steam them until nearly done, and then bake them until they are soft at the heart. A Farmer's Dainty Dish. Peel and slice thin potatoes and onions (five potatoes to one small onion) ; take half a pound of sweet salt pork (in thin slices) to a pound of beef, mutton or veal; cut the meat in small pieces; take some nice bread dough and shorten a little; line the bottom of the stewpan with slices of pork, then a layer of meat, potatoes and onions, dust over a little pepper and cover with a layer of crust; repeat this until the stewpot iS full. The size of the pot will depend on the number in the family. Pour in sufficient water to cover, and finish with crust. Let it simmer until meat, vegetables, etc., are done, but do not let it boil hard. Serve hot. This we are assured by one who knows is a dish fit to set before a king. Rice as a Vegetable. It should first be picked over, washed, and dried. Then put in boiling water, and salt and boil twelve minutes. There should be plenty of Avater. At the end of ten or twelve minutes, pour off the water, cover up the rice, and set on the back of the stove on a VEGETABLES. 341 "brick; let it steam there for fifteen minutes; if it has been in a sufficiently hot place to steam it will now be done, and every grain will be distinct; pour off the water, and, for every cup of rice, add half a cup of milk and stir. The milk is better warmed before add- ing it to the rice. Succotash. Ten ears green corn, one pint Lima beans; cut the corn from the cob, and stew gently with the beans until tender. Use as little water as possible. Season with butter, salt and pepper — milk, i* you choose. Spinach. When cooking spinach, substitute a little piece of bacon for th« salt pork usually cooked with it to season it. The nicest way to serve it is to put a bit of the bacon in each dish. Hard-boiled eggs, sliced when cold, are also liked with the greens. Cream of SpiNAcn. Take the leaves of spinach — no stalks — wash thoroughly; put them into enough salt boiling water to cover them. When boiled tender, take them out and put them into cold water to fix the fresh green color. Let them remain until cold and then rub them through a colander with a potato-masher. The spinach is then ready for table use. Winter Squash. Pare, cut up and cook soft in boiling water and a little salt. Drain, mash smooth, pressing out all the water; work in butter, pepper and salt, and mound in a deep dish. Stuffed Squash. Pare a small squash and cut off a slice from the top; extract the seeds and lay one hour in salt water; then fill with a good stuffing of crumbs, chopped salt pork, parsley, etc., wet with gravy; put on the top slice; set the squash in a pudding dish; put a few spoonfuls of melted butter and twice as lauch hot water in the bottom; cover 342 VEGETABLES. the dish very closely and set in the oven two hours or until tender J lay within a deep dish and pour the gravy over it. Turnips. Pare and cut into pieces; put them into boiling water well salted, and boil until tender; drain thoroughly, and then mash and add a piece of butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a small teaspoonful of sugar. Stir until they are thoroughly mixed, and serve hot. Mashed Turnips. Pare, quarter and cook tenderly in boiling water; a little salt. Mash and press in a heated colander; work in butter, pepper and Bait; heap smoothly in a deep dish and put pepper on top. Tomatoes a la Cream. Pare and slice ripe tomatoes — one quart of fresh ones or a pound can; stew until perfectly smooth, season with salt and pepper, and add a piece of butter the size of an egg; just before taking from the fire, stir in one cup of cream, with a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth in a part of it; do not let it boil after the flour is put in. Have ready in a dish pieces of toast; pour the tomatoes over this and serve. Browned Tomatoes. Take large round tomatoes and halve them, place them, the skin side down, in a frying-pan in which a very small quantity of butter and lard have been previously melted, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and dredge well with flour. Place the pan on a hot part of the fire, and let them brown thoroughly; then stir, and let them brown again, and so on until they are quite done. They lose their acidity, and their flavor is superior to stewed tomatoes. Baked Tomatoes. One can of tomatoes, stale bread crumbed fine, one tablespoonful of butter, pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, and white sugar. Drain off two-thirds of the liquor from the tomatoes (tbe rest catt VEGETABLES. 343 be saved for to-morrow's soup). Cover the bottom of a bake-dish with crumbs; lay the tomatoes evenly upon this bed; season with pepper, salt, sugar, and parsley, with bits of butter here and there. Strew bread crumbs over all, a thicker layer than at the bottom; put tiny pieces of butter upon this and bake, covered, about thirty-tivc minutes. Take off the cover and brown upon the upper shelf of the oven. Do not let it stay there long enough to get dry. Baked Tomatoes, No. 2. Cut in slices good fresh tomatoes (not too ripe) ; put a layer of them in a dish suitable for baking; then a layer of bread crumbs over them, salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, another layer of tomatoes, and so on until the dish is full. Bake one hour. Broiled Tomatoes. Cut large tomatoes in two, crosswise; put on gridiron, cut surface down; when well seared, turn, and put butter, salt and pepper on- and cook with skin-side down until done. Fried Tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes in slices without skinning; pepper and sa't them; then sprinkle a little flour over them and fry in butter until brown. Put them on a hot platter and pour milk or cream into the butter and juice. When boiling hot, pour over the tomatoes Scalloped Tomatoes. Butter an earthen dish, then put in a layer of fresh tomatoes, sliced and peeled, and a few rinds of onion (one large onion for the whole dish), then cover with a layer of bread crumbs, with a little butter, salt and pepper. Repeat this process until the dish is full Bake for an hour in a pretty hot oven. Stuffed Tomatoes. Choose a dozen large, round tomatoes; cut them off smooth at the stem end; take out the seeds and pulp; take a pound of lean steak and two slices of bacon; chop them fine, with the inside of 344 VEGETABLES. the tomatoes; season with a linely-choijpcd onion, fried, a dessert' spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, as much Cayenne pepper as you can take on the end of a knife and a table- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley; add four rolled crackers, and if too stiff, thin with stock, water or cold gravy; fill the tomatoes with this forcemeat, packing tight; sift cracker crumbs over the top, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. French Batter for Frying Vegetables, Moisten a little flour with w^ater, and add to it a small quantity of salt, a tablespoonful of olive oil, and a spoonful and a half of French brandy. Beat up the mixture thoroughly, and, when you are ready to use it, beat into it the white of an egg previously beaten to a strong froth. This batter may be used for frying sweet entremets, in which case sugar must be used instead of salt. Rules for Cooking Them. Green vegetables should be thoroughly washed in cold water and then dropped into water that has been salted and is beginning to boil. There should be a tablespoonful of salt to each two quarts of water. If the water boils long before the vegetables are put in, it has lost all its gases, and the mineral ingredients are deposited on the bottom and sides of the kettle, so that the water is flat and tasteless, then the vegetables will not look well or have a fine flavor. The time for boiling green vegetables depends much upon the age and time they have been gathered. The younger and more freshly gathered the more quickly they are cooked. Below is a very good time-table for cookings vesjetables: Potatoes boiled, thirty minutes. Potatoes baked, forty-five minutes. Sweet potatoes boiled, fifty minutes. Sweet potatoes baked, sixty minutes. Squash boiled, twenty-five minutes. Green pease boiled, twenty to forty minutes. Shelled beans boiled, sixty minutes. VEGETABLES. 345 String beans boiled, one to two hours. Green corn, thirty to sixty minutes. Asparagus, fifteen to thirty minutes. Spinach, one to two hours. Tomatoes, fresh, one hour. Tomatoes, canned, thirty minutes. Cabbage, forty-five minutes to two hours. Cauliflower, one or two hours. Dandelions, two or three hours. Beet greens, one hour. Onions, one or two hours. Beets, one to five hours. Turnips, white, forty-five to sixty minutes. Turnips, yellow, one and a half to two hour* Parsnips, one or two hours. Carrots, one or two houri. ta)etgl)t0 anh MtaBUXtQ. 4 Teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful liquid. 4 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 wineglass. 2 Wineglasses equal 1 gUl, or half a cup. 2 gills equal 1 coffee-cupful, or 16 tablespoonfuls. 2 Cofifee-cupfuls equal 1 pint. 2 Pints equal 1 quart. 4 Quarts equal 1 gallon. . 2 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 ounce, liquid. 1 Tablespoonful of salt equals 1 ounce. 16 Ounces equal 1 pound, or pint of liquid. 1 Pint of sugar equals 1 pound. (Wliite granulated.) 1 Quart of unsifted flour equals 1 pound. 4 Cofifee-cupfuls of sifted flour equal 1 pound. 10 Ordinary sized eggs equal 1 pound. 2 Coffee-cupfuls of powdered sugar equal 1 pound. 1 Coffee- cupful of cold butter, pressed down, is one half pound. 1 Tablespoonfid of soft butter, well rounded, equals 1 ounce. An ordinary tumblerful equals 1 coffee cupful, or half a pint. 1 Pint of finely chopped meat, packed solidly, equals 1 pound. 346 ^ougckccpci'g %ime-^able. Apples, sour, hard Apples, sweet and mellow Asparagus Beans (pod) •• Beef Beefsteak Beefsteak Bass, fresh Beets, young Beets, old •••• Bread, wheat Cabbage Cauliflower Chicken Codfish, dry and whole Custard (one quart) Dumpling, apple Eggs, hard Eggs, soft Eggs ; • Fowls, domestic, roasted or Goose, wild Lamb Meat and Vegetables Mutton Mutton Onions Oysters Parsnips Pork Pork Pork Potatoes Potatoes Rice Salmon, fresh Sausage, broiled or Soup, vegetable Soup, chicken Spinach Tapioca Tomatoes Tomatoes Trout, salmon, fresh boiled or. Turkey, boiled or Turnips Veal Venison steak Mode of Preparation. Raw Raw Boiled Boiled I oasted Broiled Fried Broiled Boiled Boiled Baked Boiled Boiled Fricasseed Boiled Baked Boiled Boiled Boiled Fried Boiled Roasted Boiled Hashed Roast Broiled Boiled Stewed Boiled Roast Boiled Broiled Boiled Baked Boiled Boiled Fried Boiled Boiled Boiled Boiled Fresh Canned Fried Roasted Boiled Broiled Broiled Time of Cooking. 15 to 30 1 00 20 10 10 20 2 00 4 30 1 00 1 00 Time of Digestion., 1-2 00 1 00 ^ 15 30 1 00 10 3 5 1 00 ^ 20 * 20 80 * 25 20 1-2 00 5 1 00 * 30 * 25 20 30 45 20 8 25 1 00 2 00 1-2 00 30 00 30 30 20 45 20 20 H. M, 2 40 50 30 30 00 00 00 00 35 00 30 30 30 45 00 45 00 30- 00 30 00 2 30 30 30 15 00 00 30 00 15 30 15 30 30 00 45 00 00 00 30 CO 30 30 30 30 30 00 35 ihSfgivenPsTe'^general average; the time will vary slightly with the quality of the. article. 3^^ GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. Asprc. — A sarory jelly. AssiKTTiss. — Small entries not more than • I plate will contain. Atklkt. — A small silver skewer. Au Bled. — A French term applied to fish • foiled in white wine with flavors. Au GrtAS. — Dressed with meat gravy. Au Jus. — In the natural juice, or gravy. Au Naturel. — Plain, simple cookery. Baba. — Very light plum-cake, or sweet French yeast cake. Bain -Marie.— An open vessel which has a I loose bottom for the reception of hot water. ■ It is used to keep sauces nearly at the boil- ing point without reduction or burning. Bardk. — A thin slice of bacon fat placed ' over any substance specially requiring the assistance of fat without larding. Batterie db Cuisine.— Complete set of > cooking apparatus. Bavaroise a l'eau. — Tea sweetened with syrup of capillaire, and flavored with a little ' orange-flower water. Bavaroise au Lait.— Made in the same way as the above, but witli equal quantities of milk and tea. BficHAMEL.— A rich white French sauce. Beiqnet, or Fritter (see Fritter). Bisque.— A soup made of shell-fish. Blanc. — White broth used to give a more • delicate appearance to the flesh of fowl, Iamb, etc. Blanch. — Placing anything on the Are in cold water until it boils, and after straining it off, plunging it into cold water for the purpose of rendering it white. Used to whiten poultry, vegetables, etc. Blanquette.— A fricass6e usually made of thin slices of white meat, with white sauce thickened witli egg yolk. Blonde de Veau.— Double veal broth used ..to enrich soups and sauces. Boudin.— A delicate compound made o) quenelle forcemeat. BouiLLi.— Beef which has been boiled in making broth. B.jUILLie.— A French dish resembling that called hasty pudding. BoriLLON.— The common soup of France. Bouquet of Herbs.— Parsley, thyme, and green onions tied together. Boi:quet Garni.— The same thing as Fa- got, which see. Bourguignote.— A ragoiit of truffles. Braise. — Meat cooked in a closely-covered stewpan to prevent caporation, so that the meat retains not only its own juices, but those of any other articles, such as bacon, herbs, roots and spice put with it. Braisiere. — A saucepan with ledges to the lid, so that it will contain firing. Briber.— To truss fowls with a needle and thread. Brioche.— A sponge cake similar to Bath buns. BuissoN.— A cluster or bush of small pastry piled on a dish. Callipash. — The glutinous portion of the turtle found in the upper shell. Callipke. — The glutinous meat of the turtle's under shell. Cannklons. — Small rolls or collars of mincemeat, or of rice and pastry with fruit. Capilotade.— A hash of poultry. Casserole.— The form of rice to be filled with a fricassee of white meat or a purSe of game; also a stewpan. Civet. — A dark, thickish stew of hare or venison. CoMPifeGNE.— Sweet French yeast cake, with fruit. Compote.— Fruits stewed in syrup. There are also compotes of small birds. CoNFiTUtiES. -Sweetmeats of sugars, fruits, syrups, and essences. 348 GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. 34i>> CoNSOMMfi.— strong, clear gravy obtained by stewing meat for a considerable length of time. CouLis.— A rich, smooth gravy used for coloring, flavoring, and thickening certain soups and sauces. Croquettes. — A savory mince of fish, meat, or fowl, made with a little sauce into various shapes, rolled in egg and bread- crumbs, and fried crisp. CouuoNNE, En.— To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown. Croustaclks.— Also known as Dresden patties. They are composed of mince en- cased in paste, and m.oulded into various forms. Croustades. — Fried forms of bread to serve minces or other meat forms. Crouton.— A sippet of bread fried, and used for garnish. Cuisine MASQufiE.— Highly seasoned or unusually mixed dishes. CuissoN.— Method of cooking meats, or the liquor in which they have been bulled. Dariolk. — A sweet pat6 baked in a mould. Daube. — Meat or fowl stewed in sauce. Daubikre. — An oval stewpan. DlijEUNER 1 LA Fourchette.— Breakfast with meats, wines, etc. DfesossER.— To bone. DoRURE.— Yolks of eggs well beaten for covering meats and other dishes. ENTRfiE. — A corner - dish for the first course. Entremet.— A side-dish for the second course. Esc A LOPES. — Collops. EsPAGNOLK. — A rich brown Spanish sauce. Fagot.— A small bunch of parsley and thyme tied up with a bay -leaf. Farce.— Forcemeat. Feuilletage. — Puff paste. FiNANciERE.— An expensive, highly fla- vored mixed ragout. Flamber.— To singe fowl or game after picldng. Flan. — A French custard. Flancs.— The .side-dishes of large dinners. FoNCER. — To put in the bottom of a sauce- pan thin slices of veal or bacon. Fonuue.— A light and pleasant prepara- tion of cheese. Fkicandeaux may be made of any boned pteoea of veal obiefly cut from the thick part of the fillet, and of not more than two or three pouuds weight. FricassSe.- Chickens, etc., cut in pieces in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, etc., as accessories. Fritter -Anj'thing encased in a covering of batter or eggs, and fried. Gateau.— A pudding or baked cake. Gauffres.— A light, spongy sort of biscuit Glaze.— Stock boiled down to the thick ness of jelly, and used to improve the ap pearance of braised dishes. GoDiVEAUX. — Various varieties of force- meat. Gras.— With, or of meat; the reverse of.' maigre. Gr.vtin.— .\u Gratin.- A term applied tr certain dishes prepared with sauce and- baked. Gratiner.— To cook like a grill. Haricot. — So called from the French ■ word for beans, with which the dish was oi-i.-^inally made. Now understood as anj thick stew, or ragoiit of mutton, beef, of veal, cut in pieces, and dressed with vego tables and roots. Hors-d'ceuvres. — Small dishes of sar dines, anchovies, and other relishes. Lakdiniere. — Vegetables stewed down in • their own sauce. Laruon. — The piece of bacon used in lard ing. Liaison. — The mixture of egg and cream . used to thicken white soups, etc. Lit.- Thm slices in layers. Luting.— A paste to fasten lids on pia I)ans for preserving game. Madelienes.— Small plum cakes. Maigre. — Without meat. Marinade.— Tlie liquor in which flsh o^ meat is steeped. Mask.. — To cover meat with any rich sauce, ragout, etc. Matelote. — A rich flsh stew with wine. Mayonnaise.— Cold sauce, or salad dresl ing. Mazarines, or Turbaj^.— Ornamental e>> tr6es of forcemeat and fillets of poultry- game, or fish. Menu —The bill of fare. Meringue.— Light pastry made of sugar and the white of^eggs beaten to "scow." Miqnonnbttk Pepper. ~C>arrc>l,v grouotii peppercorns. •350 GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKING. 'iiROTON.— Small thin slices of meat about 3S largo as a crown piece nwde into ragoflts of various kinds, and dished up in a circular lorni. MouiLLKR.— To add broth, water or other iiquid while the cooking is proceeding. Nougat. — Almond candy. NouiLLES.— Strips of paste made of eggs And Hour. Panada.— Soaked bread used in the pre- paration of French foivenjeat. I'ANER.— To cover with bread-crumbs fried or b;ikfd food. Fai'illotk, En. — The pieces of paper greased with oil and butter, and fastened round a cutlet, etc., by twisting it along the edge. PATft.— A small pie. Paupiettks.— Slices of meat rolled. PificB DK RAsisTANCK. — The principal joint of the dinner. Pilau. —A dish of aieat and rice. PiQUER.— To lard with strips of bacon fat, Blackberry Cordial. Squeeze the juice from the berries, and to every pint of juice add one pint of water; to every quart of this mixture put one pint whisky or brandy; sweeten to taste, use the best lefined sugar; a few spices may be added if liked. This makes a very suj>erior cordial, and improves with age. This recipe answers, for strawberries, peaches, wild grapes, etc. Blackberry Wine. Crush the berries well with a wooden masher; cover with water • and stir well together; let them stand twenty-four houi's; then strain, and to one gallon of juice put six cups of common brown sugar; put into wide mouthed jars for several days, carefully skimming off the scum that will rise to the top; put in several sheets of brown paper, and let them remain in it three days; , skim, and iiour into your cask. There let it remain undisturbed six mouths; then strain again and bottle. These directions, if carefully followed out, will insure you excellent wine. — Orange County Becipe. Cherry Bounce. Mix together six pounds of ripe morellas and six pounds of large black heart cherries. Put them into a wooden bowl or tub, and mth a pestle or mallet mash them so as to crack all the stones. Mix with the cherries three pounds of loaf sugar, or of sugar candj^ broken up, and put them into a demijohn, or into a large stone jar. Pour on two gallons of the best double rectified whisky. Stop the vessel closely, and let it stand three months, shaking it every day during the first month. At the end of the three months you may strain the liquor and bottle it. It improves by age. Currant Wine. Steam, mavSh and strain ripe currants, adding a half pint of water and two teacui)s of sugar to a quart of mashed fruit. Stir well together, and pour into a clean Ciusk, leaving the bung-hole ; 396 geocer's department. open, or covered with a piece of lace. It should stand for a month to ferment. Add a little whisky or brandy, and bottle. Cream Soda Without the Fountain. Coffee sugar, four pounds; three pints of water, three nutmegs, grated, the whites of ten eggs, well beaten, gum arable, one ounce; twenty drops of oil of lemon, or extract equal to that amount. By using oils of other fruits, you can make as many flavors from this as you desire. Mix all and place over a gentle fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire and strain, and divide into two parts, into one half put eight ounces of bi-carbonate of soda, into the other half put six ounces tartaric acid. Shake well, and when cold they are ready for use by pouring three or four spoonfuls from both parts into separate glasses, each one-third full oi water. Stir each and pour together, and you have a nice glass of cream soda which you can drink at your leisure, as the gum and eggs hold the gas. — White Souse Cook Bool'. Ehubarb Wine. An agreeable and healthful wine is made from the expressed juice of the garden rhubarb. To each gallon of juice add one gallon of soft water, in which seven pounds of brown sugar have been dissolved; fill a keg or a barrel with this proportion, leav- ing the bung out, and keep it filled with sweetened water as it works over, until clear; then bung down or bottle as you desire. To Preserve Eggs. There are several recipes for preserving eggs, and we give first ouo we know to be effectual, keeping them fresh from August until Spring. Take a piece of quick-lime as large as a good-sized lemon, and two teacupfuls of salt; put it into a large vessel and slack it with a gallon of boiling water. It will boil and bubble until thick as cream; when it is cold, pour olf the top, which will ■be perfectly clear. Drain off this liquor and pour it over your (IKOCEK'S DlOPAuTMENT. 397 eggs; see that the liquor more thau covers them. A stone jar is the most convenient;— one that holds about six quarts. Another manner of preserving eggs is to pack them in ajar with layers of salt between, the large end of the egg downward, with a thick layer of salt at the top; cover tightly and set in a cool place. Some put them in a wire basket or a piece of mosquito net, and dip them in boiling water half a minute; then pack in saw- dust. Still another manner is to dissolve a cheap article'of gum arable, about as thin as mucilage, and brush over each egg with it; then pack in powdered charcoal; set in a cool dark place.— TFMe House Cook Book. Preserving Eggs. The following mixture was patented several years ago by Mr. Jane, of Shefaeld, England. He alleged that by means of it he could keep eggs two years. A part of his composition is often made use of— perhaps the whole of it would bo bettei. Put into ■a tub or vessel one bushel of quick lime, two pounds of salt, half a pound of cream of tartar, and mix the same together, with as much water as will reduce the composition or mixture to that consistence that it will cause an egg put into it to swim with its top just above the liquid. Then put and keep the eggs therein. To Cure Butter. Take two parts of fine salt; one part loaf sugar; one part salt- peter; mix completely. Use one ounce of this mixture to each pound of butter; work well. Bury your butter firkins in the earth in your cellar bottom, tops nearly level with the ground, or store away in a very cool place, covering the butter with a clean cloth and a strong brine on the top, and it will keep two years if desired. To Keep Butter During Hot Weather. A simple mode of keeping butter in warm weather is to invert. a large crock of earthen, or a flour pot if need be (varying with "^98 grocer's department. tlie size of the vessel containing the butter), over the dish or firkin in which the butter is held. The porousness of the earth- 'cnware will keep the butter cool, and all the more so if the pot ,.be wrapped in a wet cloth, with a little water in the dish with the butter. Not the porosity of the earthenware but the rapid absorption of heat by external evaporation causes the butter to become hard. To Keep Apples Fresh All Winter. Take fine dry saw- dust, preferably that made by a circular saw from well seasoned hard wood, and place a thick layer on bottom of barrel. Then place a layer of apples, not close together and not close to staves of the barrel. Put saw-dust liberally over -and around, and proceed until a bushel and a half (or less) are so packed in each barrel. They are to be kept in a cool jDlace. A very superior way of x)reserving apples until spring. By it any apple in good condition when packed will be equally good when unpacked, and even those rotting, because not in good condition when put away, will not injure any others. Curing Ham or Other Meat for Smoking. Take one pound of saltpeter, one pound of pepper, three pounds of brown sugar and ten quarts of salt to 100 weight of pork. Dissolve the saltpeter in a very little hot water; mix all the ingredients well, and then rub it on and into the meat — hams, etc. — with the hand, until it is everywhere covered. Insert your finger under the center bone in hams and shoulders, and then fill that opening with the mixture. Then lay in a cool I)lace for about two weeks, not allowing it to freeze, when it will be ready to smoke. This recipe has been tried and tested by a number of people, and is a preventive in keeping off" all trouble- some insects, and the meat will be sweet and tender, and "srarranted to keep all summer. Warranted good. grocer's department. 399 To Smoke Hams and Fish. Take an old hogshead, stop np all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to intro- duce an iron pan filled with hickory wood sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the hogshead upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain ten days, and keep up a good smoke. The best way for keeping hams is to sew them in coarse cloths, whitewashed on the outside. To Cure English Bacon. This process is called the "dry cure," and is considered for preferable to the New England or Yankee style of putting pre- pared brine or pickle over the meat. First the hog should not be too large or too fat, weighing not over two hundred pounds; then after it is dressed and cooled cut it up into proper pieces; allow to every hundred pounds, a mixture of four quarts of common salt; one quarter of a pound of saltpeter and four pounds of sugar. Eub this preparation thoroughly over and Into each piece, then place them into a tight tub or suitable cask; there will a brine form of itself, from the juices of the meat, enough at least to baste it with, which should be done two or three times a week; turning each piece every time. In smoking this bacon, the sweetest flavor is derived from black birch chips, but if these are not to be had the next best wood is hickory; the smoking with corn-cobs imparts a rank flavor to the bacon, which is very distiisteful to English people visiting this country. It requires three weeks or a month to smoke this bacon proiterly.—BerJcshire Recipe. 400 grocer's department. To Try Out Lard. Cut the leaf lard into small pieces, and put it into a kettle or vsaucepan; pour in a cupful of water to prevent burning; set it over the fire where it will melt slowjy. Stir it frequently and let it simmer until nothing remains but brown scraps. Eemove the scraps with a perforated skimmer, throw in a little salt to settle the fat, and, when clear, strain through a coarse cloth into jars. Stir it constantly from the bottom until the salt is thrown in to settle it; then set it back on the range until clear. If it scorches it gives it a very bad flavor. AGENTS WANTED. We want agents in every county and every township, to intro- duce this work. The sale of this valuable book is somethinff unprecedented. Every book delivered sells another. Many of our agents take six to ten orders in a day. Any active agent can make one hundred dollars each month selling this book. Our terms are the best ever given by any publishers. If yow desire Ijrofitable and permanent employment write us at once, naming the field you desire to canvass, and we will send circulars, terms, and full particulars by return mail. If you have had experience in selling books please state number of copies you have sold. We also wish experienced agents to manage field for us and secure agents. Address the publishers of this book. See title page. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 488 187 4 ...^ ^y^T^MfStf^^^^. l^^"''^^^*'''*^ :M