/•«\tf^#AVv\r l.\\.*if- if vl:».viii«/Jrz,i.^^i?t .>.'*/*-; ■. ^ ¥^¥Mi^ k^. "^m^ lOCllS .xectee an lONNET. \ a-Ui\^--r.\.W L:\:rj^ / Traitement dcs akdies de la Peau et DE L'ESTOMAC Maladies k Ciiir Clievelii -- Malaiiies Veiieriiiies Le D'- MONNET, ancien Chef de diuiqiic de la Faciilte, recoit a son Cabinet, 16, Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris, les malades atteints de ces diverses affections, les Mardi, Jeudi, Sa- medl, de 2 heures a 4 lieures ; les aiitres jours sont consacres aux rendez-vous a Paris ou en province (lemandes d'avance et par lettre. Le D'' MONNET a publie sur ces maladies iin li\re intitule •.Peau el Estomac owxoyQ franco contrc 1 fr. en timbres francais ou en maiidat-puste. Les Malades qui desirent se faire soig-ner sur olace a Paris, pourront, s'ils le veulent, etre recus lans une Maison de Sante specialement aftectee au raitement et sous la direction du D'" MONNET. fiTA BLISSEMENTSIBALNEAIRES MAISON DE SANTE SAISON DU 15 MA'I AU 30 SEP'FEMKnS ETAI5LISSEMENTS BALNEAIRES DE PIlEMlER ORBP.E Lfs eau\ do BRI0B6 9 36", loni-piirgatives, sonl souveraines dans Ic^ maladies du FQIE, dfs /!f/;V,J el des miESTIHS. — TrailcmeiU special de VOB^SITt BAINS DE SALINS, Anemie, Rachitisme, Malsdies des Os ATTRACTIONS DE TOUS GENRES CASINO, THEATRE, CONCERTS, SEUX £}xcursioa9 en montagne — Pfiche ii la truite feOLISE ANGLICANE EECOHMiSDE GHRHD HOTEIi DES THEHIVIES bobi ASCENSEUR -«- LUMIERE ELECTRIOt'E MAISON DE SANTE _ _ _ -'>4gC-^ M (Directeur . M. Is D' Moreau de Te«.rs •ti, RUE DE LA MAIRIE, 23. - IVRY-SIJR-SEINE F,i Tiliphone 801.67 oninrii artuellement. deux etablissements sepaivs. L'un ronsacn- /3u iiMii'Mnoiii lies maladies mentales. L'auire au traitement des nia- ladlCv ljcr\ nisrs . i [pavilions ISOLES ENTOURES de JARDINS VASTES PARCS Les pareiils des malades sont renus a Tetablissement tons l.^s jours, de 10 lioiiivs a 3 heuresVLes mercredis et dimanches, toute In jounice. Le doctcur Moreau de Tours reroit egalement a Pans le-^ luntjis ei vendredis, de 2 a 4 heures, 58, rue de I'Universite Ijlo^ens de communication " — TiMiiiway .iUtj au CliaieliM : nalcaux-express lais.-iiii c^r.iK' :1 In v. 1/ I.ES GRANDES MARQUES YELOCIPIrDIE aoufacturing p Syndicate Linnitecl. Market-Lar ne NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE ■.•Sisgrams ■uyD-NEWCASTLE-ON-TyWE National Telephone r 2101 DIRECTEUR GENERAL fOl tejlfifl i. iMfL 2S, 'Avenue de la ■Cnande-Armee. 22 in :p-a, f\.xs LES GRANGES MARQUES SOINS DE LA BdUCHE ^ DKMANDER^PARTOUT I LE DENTELY / /A Sc troiiV(> dans loutes leis bonnes Maisnns Hp Parliimri- nos, pniici(Ml^\s t'liarmacies Elixir Poudre, Brosse et Pate DENTIFRICE LF PLCS ANTISEPTIOUE CONMU / liiissani .1 U hnuclje m parlum j(]rpalilo / ■=^'^' / V/ Km (KSIiflAL / »jj / JrVH3 JS 1 L. SPgRAT A / wii»a''''^««o PARIS / .'^Sk^ / ,^ ^ / .i|i|Esjtii: ninjjtil m .ii|.inoq c| b iur,ssiP| RNNOO inOlldHSIlNV ssiS'iiVji-fcin;! j s"C)ini!?A110vj J[) SUiSv:7i:|V k' SniDDtliJULIJ SeiBiJlOUI.Ilt 'Si.11.1 •■>( saiiuM. imp ^lAiio.Ji .--s aoiHvdfixNaa A131N3a 31 LES GRANDES MARQUES AUTOMOBILISME --•fef. ^^^S^fe^ •1 ■m Electriques et & Petrole -13, Rue Deacombes put, DP ,., ...o pexE.BB ^.1. 3P»A,!)Rk,XS Locations k la volont^ des Clients REPARTITIONS Station de charge pour Accumulateurs M:-^^p^ liv LES GRANDES MARQUES AUTOMOBILISME-YELOCIPEDIE nUADRICYGLE-AUTOMOBILE I GOYET 8t liEGRflS f it m W 23 bis, Ru9 du Marche, 23, Ms LES GRANDES MARQUES CYCLES ET MOTOCYCLES CYCLb.S .fc.T MOTOCYCL.es + 5, potifvl&'Jraosport et'lc parage J — r — =s-s— j-;-^-? diKctiondune h.cyclctte. La (f,i-eciio,n suppniiiee, une machine ne reut ptus Sire' ei!fourchec : elleest aiiisi prcserveaconlre Ic'vol c c <= .nm,S!?^V- ■''""'' ',';'-f "''C«i";'Pa':?l'ele ;au cadre,- la machine devieht d'jine grand- coma|odae paurl? transport et e garage, QarJ'espace occupe primitivarL par le guidon est. enUei'pmeat-ijupija'ijne. «. <=.iv P«i *t I. entritii!„.iles nmcbjne? ef des af«ii«ys co<,/- /«s i^eparitionsea ttusgweS. MOTEDRS a PSTilOLiloyp TRICYGLSS, VOITURBS et EMeARCATIONS 'rp5^U.2:]fM'& e^ , , ^ . l5^£rei"c2u.rs-CorLSt,vuoteus-a 11, Hue Bellaiige!-, LEYALl,OIS-PER.RET """ " ""■ ""TE- ECHANGE ET ACHAT Ot VOITURES AUTOMCBILES 0£ TOUi SYSTtMES r VI LES GRANDES MARQUES YOITURETTES POUR MOTOCYCLES rniLippoN & S, rue du Debarcadere, 8 mri^ LES GRANDES MARQUES YELOCIPEDIE DE LUXE CYCLES ARTICULES The Imperial Cycle BICrCLETTES D£ LUXE i BICYCLETTES DE PRECISION PIECES DETACHEES | FOURNITURES DIVERSES MOTOCYCLES ! AUTOMOBILES BICYCLETTE GRAND LUXE 300 FRANCS B. imPERIAl- P^'RIS, IS. rue de "Ricljelieu, PJl'RIS SUCCURSAL.E DRUXULLE3 Guidon et tige de selle antitr6pidafeurs et antid6rapants KMfVfTt! *.. f.. l^ C. KB^HCE. Itmi.-ICEn Supprimant entiereme.u les trepidations ct les choca dii pave et la nppage SPECUtEMENT RECOMMAKDE AUX DAMES Nos mschincs garanties 5 aas et les pneumatiques 3 ans BICYCLETTE ARTICUliEE : Trepidation, pfiisde Fatigue, roulement doux avec LA BICYCLETTE ARTICULEE Positions fixes sur les Pedales et sur la Selle PAR LE DEPLACEMERT DE LA BOUE ARRlfiRE. lNDf,PElAMMENT DO CADRE Aux Caliots des Routes pavees et mal entretbnues AVANTAGEUiSEMENT RECONNU pa"- un grand nombre de Touristes POUR LA DIMINUTION DE LA FATIGUE, POUR L'HYGIENE, ETC. £nooi francs (lu Catalogue sur aemande PUYBOURDilTGonstrueteur ll«. Boulevord Haussu7a>iii . PARIS LES GRANDES MARQUES EQUIPAOES DE LUXE CHEVAUX DE SELLE A LOUER 5 fr. la matlnfee — -lO fr. I'epr63-midi :Tasu - «iie?j - (faom - fisras ■ pm-Boc ■ siuessttes mum A IjOUEK, el la. Jaxir-n6© st au ivlols t PENSION DE CHEVAUX ^- PRIX MODERES Cheir.in des Baumettes T i;: L tt p :-s c; N f : ''•'-'- a. i^oy 51? 400 CHEVAUX OE LUXE DISPONIBLES 6arrossiers, Cobs & PosH^res SO, Rue Pinel Paris Bd DE L'HOPITAL " PLMSIEDRS/IUTRES COIRS SUCCURSALES . -r^- 7, Roate de la R6voIte (PcKeMaiiioi) ' 104, Rue Charles-Laffitte Telephone CARROS$IERS, COBS ET CHEVAUX DE SELLE Adfes:: TJIegraphique : HorSSroy- Par!S ' LES GRANDES MARQUES ROUES CAOUTCHOUTEES fS JWaw ST. f AliBOf Comid de SHti£U/SRURY el TALBOT, Pmpri6taire 0. ABBAMY, Dinctmtr BxnUBATJX -. 4, me Olvck (Op^ra) BANDAGES CAOUTCHOUTES POUR ROUES DE VOITURES Sysleroe Brevets. ^^_^^.rr^.. finooi Tr&ih/y fyjoo/ ^fl/2C0 sur ' i" liiiP'^^^M 5tf/* demand ^^■- J S&IB demande UBIf 61 CATAL§G3£ ?^P ] TARIF et SATALS6US ^P:^ Maison a BRUXELLES, 35, ru© Sl^vin. ^ Maison a MILAJN", 8, Via TazzolL LES GRANDES MARQUES HARNACHEMENTS, CARROSSERIE >?v jlaDufacture df paillettes et f asseienteries lilitaires 5? 6)r-. EQUIPEUENTS IHIUTAIRES, BUOOERIES DIPLOUtTIQUCS (q) ™ SKLLERIE I ?ai3ia(jijiBa 8P;is]ai!.3 a'aasaas Btaaeiaaa Civile et Militaire - ■ • - . -^.™^- [Q Sabres et ^peee Y^^^.^-"""'^ %\t\ d'Ordonnancc cl dc Bonlaisief F^ I C M E S »^/fan£aiSLc^ ^.W c)« SeUES D'AMA20A<£g -ft- gpecialilc de Harnais Riches #5 FOURNISSEURS tlu Senat, dcs icotes St-Cyr, fonlamebleiu Verssilles, du Borda el tfe St-Maixent Ceimm s CsiDisrons inieiiuiin eiUBiiiies neuiliiiiH I BREVETt E» I'RAKCE ET A L'^TRAKQER tV 41. rue de Richelieu i^ f MRIQUEDEVOITURES Sjslnnc dc Frein biTvcip VOITURES NEUES et rOCCASION pnix MODf;Kf;s 157, Boulevard de la Villette Paris DU TIBHE Entiferement reconstruit en 1898 PARIS {BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS) En (ace ta Banqtie Ru^^e ;les grandes marques yachts a 'oile et a vapeur ^mil!!illlilillllllllllilllllilll!illllllllllllllllll!illlllllilllltlllllllllll||||||||||||||||li||l||||||l!|llll||^^^^^ I' fllpl)Oi)§e ItEG/lIi I I Constructeur-lngenieup des Arts et Manufactures | = ANCIEiN ELEVE DES ECOLES d'aRTS ET M-ETIERS ■, = I PRA1RIE=AU=DUC, NANTES (Loire=Inferieure) ? | :\ I L- ■Bl m km pivi pi _J^ g^i^iH y^ ■;*£)^j»:-v.^^,„„. ■ ,^»=»«'^ C a A XT D E, O N" ISr B JR I E & I Constructions metalliques \ I YACHTS A VAPEUR & YACHTS A VOILE j I Constructions mAritimes ^!!i>in!iitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHiiimwiitHiii)jiiiiMiHiHiiiiiiiiinmiiiiiriiiitiiiti!iiiiiiin' LES GRANDES MARQUES CANOTS A VOILES ET A YAPEUR GODcsrsxDaxjGxxorsr Ancienne Maison WAUTHELET UBHETOri 4, BoLiievard Diderot, 4 CAROTS DE PLAISANCE j r Je to us Grenres I k YOll^ & k VA!>EU'ii les:grandes marques peintures specfales pour bateaux MANUFACTURE DE PEINTURES & YERNIS ZiM t MOETIGHT (Seioe-et-Oise), p^s PARIS i WILLESDEH (pris Leodres) 8t { gA]IIT-F£7EBSB0Dfl6 Georses GUITTET 43, Rue de Paradis (Cite Paradis), a PARIS PRINCIPAUX ARTICLES FABRIQUES PAR LA MAISON t-A Q\ 60 CANOTINE 1 PEIKTDRE SOUS-MARIWE Composition anti-corrosive ex garan- tissant les carenes contrc Ics licrbes iD&rincs et les coquillagos. L'OLtOLITHIQUE Peinture a I'huile prSte & emnlovS" (en toutes nuances) ; Gotto peintiire s'emploie siir fei% bois. I platre, briiiue, etc. Couvre une surface j plus grande que la peinture a I'liuilc ordi- > niirc et possede ^ne tres ^raridc durco. I Ellfi peut 6tre recouverte d'un vernie ou > servir de couche dc foods pour I'applica- < tion de la peinture-^mail. PEINTURE-EMAIL ("" C\ c^ 80 nuances') La plus briUante, La plus durable, La plus facile a employer, La meiUcur marche. \ S'emploie sur bois, metal, cimcnt, ; plitre, pierre, etc. Get dmail donne au" \ i.ibjets qui en sont recouverts, une surface i brillante ct dura ressemblant .i la porce- I laiiie. Inattaqu&ble i I'eau de mer et 4 I I'eau cliaude. j NoT4. — Ddsigner da^s Ics com- j mandes si la peintureiSmail doit dtre > employee a roxtorieur ou a I'intorieur. VERNIS D'ACIER I.e plus durable des verms jjour les ouvragcs Ics plus exposes aux mtempd- ries, pour yachts, canots, etc. VERNIS POUR YACHTS Vernis special secli^nt dur, tris bril- lant ct re-iistant bien a I'eau. VERNIS TECK I Vornis special, tres pale, tres brillani, } sechant vite et dur a rint6ri«ur', pour les boiscries. planches et tous les usages i g^nerauji a I'intorieur dee navires. Osnianttir Ics Tarifs spiciaui pour les Peinturss et I9S Vtmli peur tous usages , ji/iii que les Cartes de Nuances des Peintures-tniail on Ptinturt OleolltHique. LES GRANDES MARQUES ARMES DE LUXE I US li'*^ PREMIERES RECOMPENSES A TOUTES lES, EXPOSITIONS -^ '« ROBLIK ■ Fournisseur Brevctc de S. M. I. R. I'Emperenr d'Antrirhe BREVETE D'^in r-^o-aveavi S5rstem.e ci© fixsil sans ciiien a. extraotesxir a.'utozrj.aticau.e 9, RUE DE LJX ViLIiE-L'feVEQUE, 9 PARIS les:grandes marques ARMES DE SALONS - ARMURES ANCIENNES IS^Sr^^" i^'^^^^m — »• <37vNoNS POUR VT^eHT^ APPAREmS POUR LE TIR AUX PIGEONS p.A.Iji_>-TR,AF'P poui- I'exercioe du, Tir a-vi vol A., LAMMERS ^^A'ffiS i^- 65, -Faubourg Sa.Lrcf--Cen/s» €5 ^- -pytT^-fS -^' "w^is^^r^"***" Q^ancn SFoni/<;e> en fS2/ ^' BAGHEREAU MEVBLES . OliJSTS 'D'AUT 26, ^ue. J^c €eCetlcr Pa^ij^ LES GRANDES MARQUES APPAREILS PHOTOGRAPHIQUES ET ENREGISTREURS DE PRECISION i OU JUMELLE STEREOSCOPIQUE Brevetee en tous J?ajs Cei appareil, indispensable a lous les Touristps, Peinlres, Dessinalou , Archilecies, elc, donne Pillusion absolue en vraie grandeur de larealite, avec son relief el sans aucune d6for- ination ni exaseraiion de'perspectiv'f , quelle que $oiL I'JncliiiaisDn de I'appa- reil OU Ifi nianque de" cequl. II a la foi'nie d'unejumplle oe ihefaire; SOD chassis .a r^^ipeliiii'ii pfr- inel de faire 12 yues st^i-eo.iCupHiin'? OU 24 vues simplte; il esl ip'tri.haii- ieable en pleine lurairre. Le corps le I'appareil avec ses ubjectijs seri de stereoscope et permct de voir les iuiages agrandies a leur vaieur reelle, celies-ci peuvent loujours servir pour les pi-ojeciions; les cliches peuvent aussi 6tre agi-andis avec n'imporle qyel appareil et i n'lmporLe qu«lle grandevir* Poiir les personnes qui tifennenl absolument ii (ain- des epreuves sur papier, uoas veooBs de^j-eer les HOMEOSCOPES, brcveie s g. d c. per- metlant de. faire_ 24..epr-euves' si-mples 6x6'/, ou 8x9, ou des epreuves stereoscop£ques'6x IS OU 8X-18. ' INVENTfi ET OONSTRUITPAR Jules RICHA.RI> IngcnipiiyCijiisifvclwr,. ClievatieT da la Ugion d'hcnmnuv Fondateur et sSuCcesseor da la. iWaison RICHARD freres 8, Jnipasse Fessanr PARXS-BELLEVILLE TR0I3 GRAhOS PRIX AOX EXPOSITIOitS : PAftS. IB89. ANVERS 1894. KOflDEAUX 1895 23 MtPLOMES B'HONNEUH En venlp CHEZ L INVljMTEUR, ei dans les principales maisons de pljoiographie lliii:lll■!!«^lllgl^■lll»'Jl■a Ej»^||;ilIll^^l|iil|pj^f>' BAROMETRE ENREGISTREUR Rendu fegle-raenlaire a bord de la Mar ObservaioiresjIeJockey-CiubvlesYaetiiseleg d''eaui-, lafiourjfe du Coaicnei'COl, ,efe ■ J)' iuscri't d'urte lacjM^ conLinuc .Iss vauifT, lions de la pce'ssion. almosphSrique; par la courbe de montee^ ou dedesoente, i! ip- diquela prevision du lemps a I'avance et esl toujour? pret ii .' la campague, il est interessant pour mnvoi franco du Catalo ine de I'filal, adoplepar tous les ants, les srandsCasinos desvilles .- vousdonner un pro- nost.ip.Tras simple el Ires solide, il a'a be- soin d'^ucun embal- lage special et peul etre emporte direiile- rnenl dansuae vali=e ouuiiemalie. llesim- dispensabtc au -bord de la cper, ainsi que danslesvillpsd'eap.x: tout le moudf. 2ue sur demande LES GRANDES MARQUES PHOTOGRAPHIES M i PARIS — 2''\ Rue de Londres, 9"'^ — PARIS Us fius bautcs reconpeiises obtemies jin Esjiositioiis. Diplome {i'liniiiiciir, kors coccaars, .\!a ISSl PHOTOGRAPHIE A LA LUMIfiUF, KLECTRIQUE ' HOTEL PRIVe rnstallation unique pa; son confoilable et ses collections ari'^iqut;. iiO,000 Clichis des CeU'brites de la haute SocicU parlsicnne. Los cias alios prwios oiileiiidos a las Exposicioiits. Diploma dt Iionor, bofs concours, Nin I'-'i EOTOGRAFIA CON LA LUZ ELECTRICA >OTorpa*iB Di)H BJeKTpinecKonrv orotuienlB 'liicTiibiii orejk EjM8CTncuiio« ooutmoBie co CB^jejiy K)u*»jiT)r ■ ctoBMk apTBcrniecnuMi co- 0|l3llijIMb. 120 000 RiHtua 3!iaaeBHTuii iBui cticiuuro QaiuiMi-Karo ufiiuecTK!. TELEPHONE 150-72 ;les grandes marques PHOTOGRAPHIE U1PU'<>C<>0-C>0(><>0<>00<>0-C>y. ;!; TiufePHOME 242-KT § IPAIEU^ \\:C^CK>0-00<><>0 O-j-i PAPIERS VAN BOSCH OESNtfeRES N0UVEAUT£S DE L'Ah(NSE 13©8 Deux formals : 6 Vi X 9 et 9 x 12 SI,MILI-dU^¥,ELLE S'-'FEREOSGOPIQUS 7X15 - 3x18 FABRIQUE B'APPiPE'LS PEOTOOPiPBiaUB:; fUi'Ljei-'iistlciilikiiKislignials e;%-Sjf»- OfmAHOEK L£ CATtlCuUS BEHIASCEn lE C,i X'acOUE LES uxxANDESiMARQUES PHOTOGRAPHIE PfiOTOGI^APMie Edouard ROZE 29, Boulevard des Italiens. — Paris Instar.ation de 1" ordre — Salons k Cabinets de toilette reservec Carle de visile soignee, ta douz. 25 tr — —In i]2dom. 15 fr. (]ui'te visile au plaCine, ta douz. 40 fr. (iie« riche) ln\l2(toiu. 25 fr. APERQU DU PRIX COURANT Carle album soignee, la douz. 40 '.i — la 112 douz. 2b h Carle album au platine, la douz. 80 fr (tres riche) /n l/2doia 50 f.'. GRANDS PORTRArrS (NALT^RABLES Grandeur 0.18"" X 0.24"" de haul prix 25 francs /'^preute - 0.30"" XO.40^'" - _ 60 ~ - - 0.50^'" X 0.60"° — _ 100 - — — 0.65"" X 1™ — — 200 — — — !■" Xl.50 — — 300 — — Reproduclions d'ancieiis portraits, ressejubiantie absolument exacte IPru suivaitl dtffic«fU) Differentes poses sont soumises au client avant la hvraison, sans qnigmenfalion de prix POftTfl«irs POOR CAftlJ D'lDENTITE LIVRtS DANS LES 48 HEURC3 CADRE3 RtCHES ET FANTAISIES A. DtS PRIX TBtS MODtHtS On peut poser tous les jours de 7 heures du matin i 7'heures du soir par n'imflorte quel temps LES GRANDES MARQUES TROUSSEAUX POUR HOMMES ifhyj Sj ^^fei^^fe-fe^'^^ MAISON ENTIEREMBNT DE CONFIANCE Qui a oblenu UNE des plus hautes Recompenses a I'Exp. Urtiv de iS89 MfiDAILLE d'OB, Exposition univeraclie, BRUXELLE.S iS&7 DIPLOME d'EONNEURTixposUion d'ALENCON- 1888 CREMATION NOUVEl-l«S De la Chemise avec la poitrine doubles CHEMISES Toutes faiies et sur vicsurc Depuis S'' " ftuaiile superieure. . tO, ■! I, 12, 13 ' CALEQOMS Toils, depuis. . . . . _. 6 "' " Coton croise b BQ Depuis m i.@EmLiH,Clietei8Fi 4, EoaW-vard Sebastopcl I'res ia rlic de Rivoli j Af'rcsse teteffraphiquc ■ \ C.3.EAUX D'AR'GENT-PARiS i Telephone 158-47 i TROilSSEAOX POUR muH \ GANTS en peau, pour 'T' , , Officiers, ind^diiraWes. 2 SO i^ Envoi tranco liu Cataiogta IlliisirS TKOUSSE^iUi PO-UR HP M ME 3- aUTS, BHETEIiliES GHAUSSETTES ^^^^(S^l^^'^i^g^ ^■?^. XXI LES GRANDES MARQUES T; LADIES> TAILORS >k±A±±ML± > ^^^^^MA^^^^^J^J^^^^"^^^ Boulevard de ia Madeleine, n" 9. -.E'NTRANCE W AVMF ! -r^^^-li^c ! RID'NG HABITS, SPORTS, FUSS H It I i I C i TAILORS- ) LATEST STYLE h- H- B- VOL Capital : HDIT MILLIONS DiieclioD pour la Fraace Par/s : 45^Riw_ Taltbout .Assurance its VILUS, CHAT2A0X, MAI- |i w'io^i'.'i.i'JSi'""^' MAlSONS He COMsfERCE, 11 ycMSii""*'*^^ " MAGASm, BMQUES LbUSCS, etc. It La Coinpagnle reconnalt la Jurldlctlon ij des Tribunam franpalt LES GRANDES MARQUES FLEURS NATURELLES Si'^PW-'^PiW^^^^'^'^'^^W^'^'^. CLE^ GRANDES MARQUES SALLE DE BAINS - TOILETTE [KSTSUiTOlCKCMSETSDETOfiMs SkUB deMB CHPOINCtT ssife "■srwtiiS LES GRANDES MARQUES BROSSERIE, ONGLIER, TABLETTERIE FflBRlQUE DE BHOSSERIE FWE a Tracy-le-Moiit (Oise; I 1 CHAELIS Succ de COMMELIN Fr6res MaisoQ de Vente ; 83, Boulevard de .Sebastopoi, PARIS MARQUE <>^Sg;- DEPOSEE ■0 z o ^ r > s r V. W P to o 7i U 2 m BROSSES h Tete, Habit, Caapeau, Poudre, Dents, Brillan- t.Lne;Barbe,EaaLreau, Fcrtction, Velours, Peignes, Saurcils. GLACES i&ce a main, Psyc-he, Poche, Bouche. BOITES a Poudre de-iaz, Poudre pour gants, Savon, Poudre ongles, Pomraade, Epingles, Sels, Alcali. POLISSOIRS pour les ongles. CROCHETS a Gants, Battlnes. aciei- de tout.es longueurs, Limea, Cure et Gratte-ongles. Chausse-pieda, Ouvre- gants. Ciaeaux, - Peignes, etc. TOOS LES flBTrCLESCOMPOSANT LES GARNITURES DE TOILETTE Monogramm^e gra^oS, incrustes, Argent et. Or. LES.GRANDES MAEQUES AMEUBLEMtNTS DE FANTAISIE POP. TAT ION CHn:;:>is — -iaponais - ikdien CJIS OS FER i.:;^i).^ :3 Oa ET .'.;iGENT RUFFIIR DEs AIMIS :" , J^assage ^liarlcs-^'I 53, "Rue de 'Ch.uunm Par IS TiL^PHCMS 20i MAISON FONDEE EN lte76 <'%' COFFRES-FORTS INCOMBUSTIBLSS IF SPFCIftLE /> F^'NG COUPES (PROPRl£Te OEU f^'u.Gfi) •4:;, OiS ,^ < a RE|?^S^ (Kerns) llinj> -, > COFFRES-FORTS S'-r-^iS^I* ■^ ETCOFFRETSIM0OMBDST1BLE3 ^ V^ WBERIiilllllS 4 TEOBGS SmiSS ■- > , / T'jUT .\ciEn i;t inv,oi.,(.^i,ls /fj) COFFRES FORTS /'";! ^'> wA f'lf EjUijiies cl .UainislralMS [.UBciires '<•'' ti 'i^ COFFRES -FO RTS v.^„V ^'£iJSL£S DE TOUS STUES ■•> '^ iJMOKiEES 4 mens DS SiLdllS ^ 1 UTANT LES bOIS .LEi PLUS RICHtl '-A MAtSO?« POES?:'"; *«SALKMhHT LE8 COPFRSS ANGLES ARISONDIS ^ LES CtRANDES marques DESINPECriON DES APPARTEMEr^TS i Soci^te Fran^aise DE 1 I»roced.e TK,IXjXjA.T, Brevete S. O. ID.O. Desinfection des Appartements Literie, Vetements, Fourriires, etc. sans aueune deterioration DESINFECTION PAR LES VAPEURS SECHES D'ALDEHYDE FORMIQUE Agence g^nerale i BKnXBLLES, pour toute la B&lgiquo AGENTS ET REPBESENTAfiTS DANS TOUTE LA FBANCE Adr.sse Tflegraphiiiuc FORSr,OCHLOr.QL BUREAUX ; 1 4', 'Rue des 9grmvAdQ,s Ti:if;,csE 237-18 I LESj^GRANDES MARQUES ECLAIRAGE PAR L'ACETYLENE ATTESTATIONS et EXTRAITS de LETTRES De H. HUBERTI. In/;inieur Lifegc, 3 janvicc 181)8. » Plus jc consulte do pcisonncs coiiipotcntcs sur le Gaz Acetylene, chimistcs, ingoniciirs, dirccteurs li tislncs a gaz, plus mon indecision augnicnto. II iCMiltc pourtant dc tons ccs avis que Ic systcme 1 Ui r est consid6r£ coiuinc ctant Ic plus ingonicus 01 oTraiit lo plus do security. » JDe M. BOUARDIN Toulon, 26 septembrc 1897. o J ai rait 1 installation dans mon magasin dun de vns appareils A Gaz Ac6tylcnCj Je dois vr.us dire. Mens eclairage I aclieter. qu'il foncuonne trcs bien et mc donne un superbe. Je sorais done desircux de Oe U. PASCAL, Inginieur Lczlmies, 3 fovrier 1898 « Plusieurs pei-sonnes sont d(!ja venues chez M. Brossatct ont etc fiappccs do la siin|illcit(; ot par suite de la sdcurlte que prcsente voire systcme. Ti'cs bon fonctionneinrnt des aFPai'cils. » 0» *. ROaERT, Pharmacien Maraussau, 22 Janvier 1898. J'ai le plaisir de vous annoncer que noire installation marclie bicn Voire Gazogene raarcUe & la perfection, je n'ai que des eloges a en laiio. » De H. BARBET, A.-chitecid Mce. 28 octobre ISO". • J"ai achetiS un de vos appareils par linleriniSdiaire de M. Pagaiiettr. J en suis fort saiisfait. • Ces quelquea attestations ilogieuses, prises parml d'luires, montrent suffisammcnt I'accuell iavorabla fait aux aopareils TOrr aans Its installations pnvees. La COMPAGNtE URBAINE D'ECLAIRAGE PAR LE GAZ ACETYLENE. Soci^Ki ahonyn)o. Capital : 2,00!).0(.X) Ir. — Siojc xocial . 139, rue ae Rome.. PARIS — qui r,cst a','»i;r(S? I exploitation des bi-evcts U. Turr, entreprejid loutes installations pnbhques et pr.vies d'ScUliipo ] tide chauffage. — Pour tous renseiyjioincnis conccrnant la vcnte des appai oils s'ldreiio' ' | ir. rAdminittrateur iili^ui dt It COMPASme fURBAiNE LES GRANDES MARQUEE PIANOS DE TOUS STYLES ^liasiinmniiiMnminiiiiHiiiiiHSiuiiMnntiiwEmuimHmimiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiniitiitiiiisnmtiniiiisiitiitE MANUFACTURE DE PIANOS ^AISON BO CI IE, FomtK EN iUS G'l 1 f l€'C!' o fAUoo^, SOOCESSIOM VENTE - LOCATION — ACCORDS - REPARATIONS | CRAfJD GHOiX DE PIANOS D'OCGASION | MAGASmS, SALLES DE COURS & £)'AUDITIOHS j 31, Rue do Faubourg-Poissonniei:e, 3! = FABRIQUE- 99, Faubourg- du Temple | i ^ PIANOS D£ TOUS STYLES SUR COMP^ANDE | 7iiiii!!imniimi!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiininiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiJ!itiiii!;ii!(!nDifnnnfi)iiiimiiii;!!!iiminmm^^^ LES GRANDES MARQUES DECORATION D'APPARTEMENTS ;llliliiliilifill!llliliiilllllilllilllllll!litiJf;iJiil!ill|lli!il!!lllll{lli!IJIinUl!Ullli:illllllllllll!IIIIIIJIi.;IliH 25, me du Landy = PLAINE-St-DENIS (Seine) | r6l6pnane : 2/5.87 | NOTICE I Le " Cuir de Paris " (brevete s. g. d. g. en France et a I'^tran- S ger) constitue I'une des plus merveilleuses sources de decoration de 2 ce temps. La richesse de ses incrustations, la finesse de son grain S et de ses modeles, la remarquable resistance do ses reliefs, sa son- = plesse, en meme temps que sa grande- tenacite, la facilite de sa pose S (qui se fait comme les cuirs, les etoffes et les papiers) ei font un pro- S duit de tout premier ordre. s 11 possede toutes les qualites des vieux cuirs de G^rdoue et de S Venise, aux coloris si fins et si puissants, sans en avoir les d^fauts. S A I'encontre des produits similaires employes aujourd'hui., qui = sont souvent des receptacles microbiens impossibles a nett'oyer, et, = parfant la cause inconnue de malaises inexplicables, il est exempi S de plomb, de matieres toxiques et se lave anx solutions boriqn^es. S 11 est, par sa composition meme, un puissant autiseptique, repondant S en tous points aux prescriptions du Comite consultetif d'hygiene de S France qui interdit formellement I'emploi du plomb et de ses com- S poses dans les peintures, les tentures, etc., des lieux riabites. S Ses multiples applications en font un produit recherche a I'egal H des plus beaux cuir:; et des plus jolies etofies, par les Architectes, 5 Decorateurs de Style et d'Ameublement, Tapissiers, Maroquiniers, £ Gainiers, Relieurs, etc. S ^ T^PPlalCT^TIONS I Le " Cuir de Paris " s'applique aux tentures raura'Ies, mfiubles, 5 paravents, sieges de tous styles, aux articles de Paris, de voyage et s de modes, a la reliure, a la decoration des paquebots et des vehicu'les s de chemins de fer et autres. 11 est superieur au cuir pour les chaises; H Le " Cuir de Paris " se pose tendu, comme les cnirs et les = itoffes, ou il se colle comme les papiers. II se lave a I'acide bori'qua ~ avcc facilite. ~ Miininiiii|iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHHiiiiii!!!ii[:;;::: :.Hfiiiiiiiiiii!imiii»Riii^ LES GRANDES MARQUES ORFEYRERIE, BIJOUTERIE ARTISTIQUS sclcar 18 ^VK ^IVIENNE Or/e vreJ^je Arb ent Bijoux artistioues snr commanci©^ *M« ""''•"'Ci,, SERVICES DE TABLE COUTELLERIE Au Certehaire Maison Fondeeen 1796 •objew d'Art kOpfevpepie OpfevPePie y ^ y/ ^ 19.Boulevapd de Strasbourg TELEPHONE N9 101.I7 T^nts'ssk\s jpour Cadearwc LXVXI LES GRANDES MARQUES BRONZES CISELES edeles pour le |renze f lOORipESSIS 50, HUejde T^Urenpe, 50 PARIS I Bouf^-dc-Table i Pendule^ - Ganddah^^^ f Hppliquef •- Gai^fel^, etc., eic. REPROriUCTION DE PIECES DE MUSEES W REPARATIONS EN TOUS GENRES Lxxxri LES GRA.NDES MARQUES BRONZES. - ORFEVRERIE ET DE FERRONNERIE D'ART FOllRNISSEURS DU GARDE-MEUBLE PARIS — Rue Debelleyme, 12. — PARfS CHEMINEES MARBRE ET BROJI-SE ■, GA^NSTURES DE FOYERS COLLECTION DES MUSE^IS NATlONATJX Execution genn? ancien TELEPHONE 25I-S7 T« VlrJu y < 'i r Tj^iyriaiBiaaara»M«aB MaiM« W 'J l tM«yiB«l ! *Jlg PinBMHimm •^2c.^e-,r~Xr,xj£^ Jl: G- PEAKRON (L^ M^tauia ^<^m) USINE A VAPE'JR ET MAGASINS . PARIS — 50, Faubourg du Temple, 50 PARIS eRPElSBIE & GQilVERTS en METAL EXTRA-BLAKC IfiilTES SPECIALITES DE CRISTAUX ET PORCELAINES MONIES . " ', Fantaisies pour Cadeaux Factory anil Warehouse . 60, FaiLbourg du Temple, PARIS; Golil and Silver Goods. Covers of extra- j %vhitc sllverplated metal, j Glassv/oik iint I'oreclaiii tancy mouD- ! t^'— S)!vonn(T, Gilding. ^ Fabrica al vapor y Ahnaccncs 50, Fauboiire du Temple, PARIS Plateria y Ciibieitos dc metal «xtra- blai\co. Espeajalidad de cnstiilcs y porrc. ^ lanas. txxxin LES: GRANDESJMARQUES APPAREILS D'ECLAIRAGE AU CAZ P£:TR0LE, J&LECTRICITE clairage Robert MOKNET •lO. Ruo Tranchet, lO — PARIS ■ Appareils d'6clafrage Lampes, Suspensions, Lampadaires, etc., etc. Reparations et Transformations de tous Styles Spscialits ti'AboNourjn tous genres BOUGIES-VEI(.LEU.SE.S AU GAZOGENE i=»6t;rox© i_xj]vii3E:aF&iE: z*ectifi6 Usine et Entrepot : 163, Rue des Voies-du-Bois a COLOMBES (Seine) r-. CONSTRUCTEUR-^LECTRiCIEN Fournisteur .Ic lAiitllene. Je la- M-ume ei Jcs 36. RUE de: montuolon LUMIiLrE KLECTHIIIL't:, SOi\f<£RIE TliniPHONE I'ARATONNEBHi: ET ACOUSTIQUE Fabrique dc \>i\i\% pour Dviiamos INSTALLATIOH COMPLETE D'USINES, CHATEAUX, PROPRIETtS PlLS ds ctnt losUlliIiOBS 6:\\ Talus J^OMBREUSES )^ErERENCB3 LES GRANDES MARQUES COUTELLERIE,' ORFEYRERIE Nlaison OSMONT, fondee en 1790 r i DUpipEi , s,« 94, By SebastopoL — Paris ' FABRIQUE a NOG-EN"T (H'^ MARNE) SPECIALITE DE COUTELLERIE DE-TABLE en tous genref: BOITES A MAINS ^ ARTICLES DE TOILETTE C:"'^'''slon ■_ . '"■ ' ^xoortation LXXXV ^ LEStGRANDES MARQUES COUTELLERIE, ORFEYRERIE PLUS DE 200 HIODELES DIFFERENTS U'.ches obene. palissandre, come, iTOire. nacre et argent Ci.Ji,,af, remeignentH'.i el ickanliUoni frtiim tur itmilidi LXXXVl LES GRANDES MARQUES MEUBLES DE JARDIN- — fPAPIERS PEINTS i| MAISON PARTICULIEREMENTRECOMMANDEE |^ I RESTAURANT DU BCEUF A LA MODE | *i; " &, "Rue de Valois, 8 H' ■«# Ue du Cycliste. EtoUe d*i Cavalie f ourntsKur (jes grandes issocfatiofls Sportivps . PASFtmEgrg A U UABECHALE ; Pavonilta. .' WARECHALE Kssenccaifa WARECHALE Eaiide luilolteftju JflARECHALE Lotion \ .^Hule 4 fa MARECHALE Poildre .V Ui/; a la fllARECHALE HmeiiJa. WARECHALE Bnllaulmo a la MARECHALE bachats-ila . ^:. WIARECHALE ESSENCES eONGENTU^ES': • -'^ .-.^ Bouquet Pompadouri: - Parfum lobelia. ^ Parfum fteurs tie lys LES GRANDES M.v..^uES TRAITEMENT DE L'OBESITE "'-SO; 15 VOULEZ-VOUS MAIGRIR ^^? S\iivea p©r».d.a,irt civieiqiies semaiiaes I TRAITEMENT SUEDOIS fe VOCS OBTlENOBEi IIN RESUITAT CERTAIN. ETONVAMT W ^i LTne Instruction aecompagne cbaqile Fldcon IS^ Le Flacon Savon Suedois 5 (ran^ Le Flacon Pilules Fondfintee Suedaises 5 - Par g.Eiacons, Savon ou Filules . , . . ' 24 - ^^ On le trouve partout Depot GfiDeral PHARMACIK CENTBALE 50 ef 62, Rue dv FaubOLirg-Montmaftts e*47iRm Lafayetts ^1^ 4{ PT^RIS ^ NE COUPEZr PLUS VOS CORS Faltes-les di'Bpai'altre avec le CORICIDE RUSSE Ifexislo des contrefagons. Pour felre ceNain de reussir, bien e.vigoi- le iiom COt^ICir>E I?,TJSBE et I'adresse du D.epdt general Pharmacie CiiNTR.VLE, 50 ct B2, vue du Fa«iflwirg-Montraarlre, -cl 47, rue Lafayette, Paris. ', " On peut leiroaver partout eD exigeant le nom OOKJEOIJDE K.XJSSE LES ENVIRONS DE PARIS HOTEL-RESTAURANT /^#?^g-ifei^Sfe:fe^l^i^lfe@ Hotel da GraijdGoiidS MAISUN DE FRI-MIER ORljKE ]£eiairag8 filectrique, tl^lSphcne Restaurant d la Carte et^d Prix fixe Situation splendide En race le Ghamp de Courbes 3t ^ proximiLe du Chateau Garage pour Autoraobilss, Bicyclettes, eiz. Posts pour charger iss accunrmlaieurg des Voitui-es Slectnquep Kcunsb et Rsmis© Omnibus de r Hotel t tcu8 les traius m ft i Uo^ I I riiis Hotel recfctJii) construi-tea Has ^s ■rM-^.^ Guide el Livre d'Adresses EN CINQ LANGUES FranQais - A nglsiis - Russe - Espagnol - Allemand LLUSTR^ Un volume de Paris- Uxiiversei-«»l d6pos6 dans dou^e ),>lle cent rinquxnte neaf chambres, des mg^einquante premiers l\i)tels de Paris qui reQoiTent chaqxie a4 pw l Deux millions de risiteurs, appartenant a la meilleure Sooietg du Monde entier. «: DES ANNONCES L'ALIMENTATION Pages . ^,s Tourtel k Tantonville 46 'ranoe,Kirsok de Bonnet a Cognac 42 A Penner 42 _ Fiue-Bretagne 44 stives La Rieuline 43 , E. Poullain 45 _ Gheri Ferbos 45 ae France Aug. Bara 25 nampagne Garr6 Perceval 27 _ Ghandon (L6on) 2ti — ( '.haury , flls 17 — Goltin 28 — Couvreur 28 — Desmony 30 — Deverdun 30 _ Dufaut 32 Dumas (Alexandre^, ' Bl — Gardet 32 — Lanson 33 — Leblanc 34 — E. Nass6 35 _ Meller 35 — Moreau-Leffevre 35 — Marchand 39 — Pur Ghampagne Dauniy . 29 — Eegnault 36 — ■ Roiissillou 36 — Vaillant-Jacquot 3it — Vin Bara 38 — Vin des princes 37 Vins d'Anjou et deTouraine. Tessier 41 Vins des cotes de la Loire et Vouvray Barue • 40 — Vermont 40 Tapioca naturel Mauprivez 47 Pains depice Petitjean 48 LES GRANDES MARQUES Armurerie. — Armes de .sa- . Ions. — Armures anciennes Bochereau oo — Lammers 65 _ Roblin 64 Automobilisme. — Cycles.— V6locip6die Barthelemy et Cie od B.Imperial o7 — Goyet et Legras 54 — Philippon et Gie • , 56 — Puybourdin ■ 57 _ Stephen et Marples 56 — Tauzin et Cie 55 Roues oaoutohout6es S. C.5Talb Canotage. — Canot a voile et a vapeur G. Aubreto Yacht a voile et a, vapeur... A. Legal.. Peinture sp^cialc pour ba- teaux f Tuittet Equipages de luxe A. Rov — M. Achille... Harnarchement. — Carrosse- Fischer rie — Petitfils et Dai! Photographie Automasi6 — E«g. Pirou ^^^ — E, Roze r^ ' — La V6roscope .... — Wallery — .1. Zion Ameubleuient de fautaisie.— Coffre forts. — Pianos de tout style. — Decoration d'appartement DuhoisOudin Ruftier des Aimes .' ■. — (juir de Paris / _ Bucher 78 Bronzes, bijoux artistiques. — Orf^vrerie — M6daillon et insignes Bouhou frferes 82 — George 87 — E. Gourtabessis 81 — Vve Dupipet 84 — Pearron 82 — Piffaut 80 — M. Tallois 80 — Enau 88 Billards. — Bains et donclies Simon Balneum. Eclairage 'appareils^ au gaz, p6trole,61ectrieit6, acetylene '"ie Urbaine d'ciclairage. . 77 — Cunin et Tramecourt 83 . — Paul Monnet 83 — Thirel f^'3 Fleurs natur piles Pelty 72 I'.outellerie Dupipet 84 — Huchery 85 Etablissements baln(iaires. — Maison de sant6 Esquirol 50 — Brides-les-Bains 50 Menbles de jardin-. -Papier special Paquien 86 — J . Vray 88 Parfumerie Violet 89 Restaurant-Hotel Boeuf a la Mode 86 — Hotel du Gra)id-Cond6. . . 91 — Hotel du Tibre 60 Salles de bains. — Toilette.. Poincet 73 'I'abletterie. — Bros.serie . Michaelis 74 Trous.seaux pour homnies... Ghevallier 70 — La "ies Tailors. . . Aynie 71 Divers Trait^s des maladies d e la peau D' Bonnet 49 Soius de la bouche Dentely 52 Assurance centre le vol Assurance eontre le vol. 71 D6sinfeclioiides a^^anements Sooldt6 franvais*> de d6. .p .. i J 1. , . sinfectioii '/"B J raitement de 1 obr^g^^ Proc6d6 russe. , . 90 •■ LA TOILETEE Amazones(tailleiri. pour) etc.. Talon U ^''^sets •^. •;..:...: Charar^l 5 ,^ . „ . .,, / EmmaGueile 5 (.ostumes taiUeii^rs Jelinek! II ,' Au vacht 1.") Dentelles [ygiene. cne, etc ,T •>, oi Dalsheiraer (i I§^ Atn ~ "^^'^ ^'® ^^ *"^^'' ^^lanche Lpigh 3 Eau de Saez 17 Eau Dermophile 17 Delonne ;iO Bonnaire ;M Bachelard 22 Hauler conf^^tjoj^s Deuillet 9 T ino-oT-j' — J, Legraiid 9 a7°1 ■<^- — Ganterie Louvet 4 -^^"".que E. Menesson 54 ^adulations, postiches Camille Photographie E . Eog6 19 Robes. — Manteaux. — Trous- seaux, etc Biraben 7 — fjonnardot 8 Brenner 7 Buzenet lo Contzen II Germaine 13 L. Kirsch 7 Ludinart 10 — Raybois 8 — A. Rabinnvski 10 — Gh. Vasseur 8 — Willy 11 Tailleurs pour hommes, four- rures S. Katz -. 10 ■ — Kieffer Ki Voyages. — Malles, valises, etc E. Goyard 23 — Bullv 23 — Gipoulou 23 Cfiauciiat. J^ant, Vte de'^KERATRY Paris Exposition 1900 Paris- Universel AMERICAN CICERONE low to see Paris Alone. i~y^ NEW YORK WILLIAM R. JENKINS Publisher and LNri-oRiER of Forkkin Books 851 and 853 Sixth Avenue 1900 Firs/ Editio)i. 41699 LibPMry of Congress ""wo COPtfS ReCEtVEO AUG 31 1900 C*f /ngnt antry SECOND COPY. Oeliverad to ORDER DIVISION, i OCT 26 mnd COPYRIGHTED BY VTE. DE K^RATRY I Hog Louis Weiss & Co., Printers, Ii6 Fulton Street, New York. WILLIAM MCKINLEY President of the United States. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Preface Introduction CHAPTER I. The Selection of a Steamer I Agencies of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique — 2 Precautions to be taken before sailing 3 Passage Tickets 5 The Departure 7 On Board the Steamer 7 Life on Board 9 Description of the Vessel 1 1 Nearing Land 13 Landing at Havre 14 Omnibus Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest 15 Carriage Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest 15 The Steamer's Train 16 CHAPTER IL The Selection of a Hotel 17 List of Hotels 17 Leading Hotels or " Hotels de Grand Luxe " 18 Reaching the Railroad Station in Paris 19 The Choice of a Conveyance 19 In the Baggage Room 20 Baggage by Express 20 At the Hotel 21 Parisian Customs and Habits 21 A few Practical Counsels 22 French Coins and Bank Notes 23 Exchange and Brokers 23 American Embassy and Consulate 24 Newspapers and Periodicals 24 CHAPTER III. Definite Selection of Quarters 28 At the Restaurant 28 Parisian Cafes 30 Tobacco and Cigar Stores 30 Barber Shops and Bathing Establishments 31 How to Ask and Find Your Way 34 Communications by Telegraph, Cable, Telephone, Post. 35 CONTENTS CHAPTER IV. First Promenade on Foot 40 Sight-seeing on the Rue de la Paix 40 Place Vendome 42 The Garden of the Tuileries 42 Carriage Ride ^ . n CHAPTER V. A few Words of Explanation ct First Carriage Promenade c^ On the Boulevards 1-4 The Opera 5j The Madeleine Church 5^ Rue Royale 5, Place de la Concorde 5c Avenue des Champ-Elysees 61; Place de I'Etoile and Arc de Triomphe 67 Friedland Avenue 58 Boulevard Haussmann 53 Second Carriage Promenade yi Third Carriage Promenade ge CHAPTER VI. The Tuileries Garden gg The Luxembourg Garden go The Monceau Park oq The Squares qj The Garden of Plants (Jardin des Plantes) 93. The Park of the Buttes Chaumont 93 Park of Montsouris q. The Churches „^ American Churches qr English Churches q- Protestant Churches qr Jewish Synagogues q^ The Cemeteries ,„. .. ...... ...... ...... . . J04 The Museums jqc Public Buildings j j ^ CHAPTER VII. Theatres ,„, 124 The Comedie Frangaise j2^ The Od6on j - The Opera ^^ The Opera Comique _ j.. The Gymnase . „ The Vaudeville j „ The Varidtes j „ The Porte Saint-Martin j.q- TheAmbigu , ^^^ CONTENTS Theatre Ly rique lei The Theatre de la Renaissance 1 5 1 The Nouveautes 151 The Bouffes Parisiens 153 Folies Dramatiques 153 Theatre Sarah Bernhardt 153 Chatelet 155 Gaiete Concerts The Cafe Riche 155 The Palais Royal 155 Cluny 157 Ath^n^e Comique 11^7 Theatre Antoine 157 157 The Concerts of the Conservatory 158 Concerts Colonne 158 Concerts Lamoureux 158 The Auditions Musicales 158 The Circuses i^g The Cirque d'Hiver 159 The Cirque Palace 155 Nouvcau Cirque icg The Cirque Medrano 160 Music Malls 160 The Folies-Bergere 160 Casino de Paris 161 The Jardin de Paris 161 The Palais de Glace 161 Le Moulin Rouge 161 Cafes Concerts 162 Parisiana i52 Les Ambassadeurs 162 Alcazar d'fite 162 Divan Japonais 163 The Scala 16^ Montniartre 161 The Treteau de Tabarin j 63 Grand Guignol 15. The Circles or Clubs 164 Periodical Entertainments 165 The Races 171 CHAPTER VIII. The Hotel Mirabeau 178 179 Prominent Cafes and Restaurants 180 Dentists 182 Milliners and Dressmakers 183 Photographers 1 84 Doctors 184 Champagne 185 CONTENTS CHAPTER IX. Stages (Omnibuses) 187 Street Cars (Tramways) 190 The Passenger Boats 190 Paris- Auteuil Railway 190 The Metropolitan 191 Outings and Excursions 192 St. Cloud 192 Sevres 193 Versailles 194 The Park and Gardens of Versailles 197 St. Germain 199 Marly-le-Roi 201 Fontainebleau 201 Bicycle and Automobile Excursions 202 CHAPTER X. The St. Lazare Station 206 From Paris to Trouville 207 Trouville-Deauville 208 Dieppe 210 Le Tr^port 211 Fecamp 212 Excursions to the Coasts of Normandy, Brittany, and the Island of Jersey 213 Watering Places 219 CHAPTER XI. Cannes, Nice, Menton, Monaco .^ 222 Arrival at Marseilles 227 Amusements at Marseilles 227 Description of the Voyage from Marseilles to Algiers. .. 233 Excursion outside of Algiers 235 PART II. Exposition. The table of contents for this part will be found at the end of the book. PREFACE Monsieur: You have undertaken one of the most useful of tasks. I know nothing more pleas- urable than a good guide; in the street, in a new city, wherever it is, he who takes you by the hand is welcome. You seek to present Paris, that great Paris, our beloved Paris, to the Foreigner, and you escort our future guests from the steamship on which they em- bark to the hotel where they alight. With rare skill and excellent practical judgment you have made yourself their cicerone for the real Vie Parisienne, with this' difference, that you have given them, on the subject of our monuments and our habits, mat- ters of our daily life and of art, details and infor- mation drawn from the worthiest sources and cal- culated to give to your book real and lasting value. I have not controlled and I do not countersign all your personal estimates of the Parisians of 1900. I do congratulate you, and very sincerely, on hav- ing drawn a vivid, realistic picture of the new Paris, of the Paris of this closing and opening of a century. Your excellent guide, your Cicerone International, which is a sort of pocket edition of Paris, will be consulted as much in the future as to-day. And I like it because it makes one like Paris, the city the most worshipped and the most abused of all the world, that city where one is ever welcome, the city not to live in which would make me desolate had my lot condemned me to live elsewhere. "City of mud and smoke," said Jean Jacques, who, for that matter, might have said as much of any other city PREFACE where, surrounded by brick and mortar, he could only long for daisies. City of bustle and of thought, of pleasure also, but a delicate pleasure, whose very peculiarities carry with them I hardly know what artistic charm. Ah ! that Paris, you have found it out, Monsieur, from its Academies down to its very cabarets chatnoir- esques, and it is just that which gives the charm and value to your book. Je serai votre guide Dans la ville splendide runs the opera of Meilhac and Halevy. You could well say this yourself, and with more truth; I repeat it, and I foresee that the greater part of the visitors to this Exposition — grand dream of Art and of Industry — will have your bright and agreeable book in their baggage, just as we have our Joanne and the Germans their Baedeker. You are a pleasurable guide, of great charm of manner and of matter whom your future readers will take as much pleasure in following as I myself have just enjoyed. And in this connection, Mon- sieur, I wish you, with all my heart, the success which your valuable work deserves and will attain to. Devotedly yours, Jules Claretje. Paris, Nov. 9, 1899. NTRODUCTION "I foresee that the greater part of the visitors to this Exposition will have your bright and agreeable book in their baggage, just as we have our 'Joanne' and the Germans their Baedeker." Such are the words which the eminent Aca- demician in his all too flattering letter has addressed to me. In the midst of overwhelming occupations he has had the goodness to find a moment to devote to this work, which I dedicate, Reader, to you, about to be dazzled, for the first time, by the City of Light. Guide Joanne and Guide Baedeker ! These are words of learned men of world-wide fame. In the wake of such masters, what can he do who makes no pretension to new learning? The author has no pretension of that sort. He has sought not to deal with erudition, but with practical information. His ambition is to be prac- tical, the most practical of all the guides. To this end he has thought it well to take the traveler at his starting point, in order to have time to bring to his notice the precautions necessary to rid the voyage of annoyance. To spare the reader worriment and disagreeable surprises has been the continual purpose and sole object of these lines. I have thought that after pointing out the sights of the capital it would not be wise to discourse on wherein their beauty lies, or in the museums to call attention to such or such a picture as a masterpiece. Such a course would be unjust to the reader, who, by implication, would be made to appear incapable of INTRODUCTION discerning for himself the beauties before him. It has been, on the other hand, a point to put forward such information as the Foreigner could not work out for himself : practical details ; means of transportation ; customs of the city ; everything contained in it which is worth seeing; in short, to add to comfort, to economize time and money and to help in avoiding imposition. Have I succeeded? The future will answer. In any case, I ask indulgence, and if im- portant information be found lacking, that it be made known to me, not in a spirit of bitterness, but rather with thoughts dwelling on days when I may have rendered effective service. ViCOMTE H. DE KeRATRY. December, 1899. PART I. PARIS CHAPTER I FROM NEW YORK TO HAVRE The Selection of a Steamer Once decided upon the date of departure, the first thing to do is to select the steamer which will take you to France. There are several companies engaged in the passenger traffic between the United States and Europe. Each has its good points, and oftentimes, when one sees in the newspapers that a steamer has made the voyage in six days, you may hear him exclaim : " This is the steamer for me ! " I would probably be of the same opinion if I undertook to make a purely business trip, notwithstanding that the most rapid racer of yesterday is not always victorious in the race of to-morrow. For it has quite often happened that a steamship line with a great reputation for speed has been beaten by the new steamer of a company considered slow until then. Be that as it may, we have to deal in this instance with a purely pleasure trip, and the question of comfort is therefore of paramount importance. You cannot and should not sacrifice your comfort for the sake of shortening your sea trip by a few hours. I am one of those whose experience make them prefer being even eight days on board a steamer in a comfortable cabin, surrounded by experienced and polite attendants, sitting at a table luxuriously served and partaking of a most refined cuisine whose dishes are specially concocted to triumph over the most rebellious appetite, to being transported in fifteen hours less time in a steamer where everything is sacrificed to speed, and where you receive hardly any more consideration than a piece of lug- gage ; luggage, to be sure, which is relegated into a cabin for which you pay a very high price and in which you are very uncomfortable. If we are of the same opinion on that point, let us seek together those steamers offering the greatest amount of com- fort. The task will be easily accomplished by referring to the Table of Contents of this very book. The sole and only steamship line that serves an absolutely perfect table, in all its appointments, is the French Transatlantic Company. 2 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE This point is universally recognized by the transatlantic travelling public. On board the steamers of that Company the perfection is not solely limited to the question of food, the cabins are real rooms and the punctilious attendance surrounding the passenger is nowhere else to be found at an equal degree. " That may be all true," some will answer, " but the steamers of that line make port after the steamers of some of the other lines." — Well, in my estimation, to arrive in Paris at five o'clock on Friday afternoon by a direct line, instead of arriving at noon by an indirect route, after numberless transhipments of many annoying kinds, does not weigh in the balance — the few hours gained assuredly do not com- pensate for the fatigue endured nor for the variety of discom- fort experienced. Moreover, one should not lose sight of the tediousness of the passage on board of a steamer with a cabin where you are ill at ease with an uninviting table for consolation. In this case, your sole enjoyment lies in the anticipation of being relieved of your misery on reaching port. On the contrary with the French line, as I have heard it expressed a hundred times, you find yourself regretting that the passage has not been of a longer duration. But I will take the liberty here to remark that if all the steamers of the French Transatlantic Steamship Company are not classed in the category of greyhounds, the Company will supplement its fleet during the Exposition with two superb new steamers. La Lorraine and La Savoie. They are an improvement upon the famous La Touravte, which has lowered many records, and it is said of the new additions to the fleet, that their equal in beauty and speed will not be found afloat for a long time to come. In thus advising you, I assure you pleasure, speed and comfort — enough to satisfy the most exacting. The French Transatlantic Company has agencies in all the large cities, where tickets can be purchased. The follow- ing table will furnish you the necessary information upon that point : Agencies of the Compagnie Generale Trail satlantique Company's Head Office, 6 Rue Auber, Paris Branch Offices in Paris Cabin Passengers, 12 Boulevard des Capucines (Grand Hotel). General Ticket Office (under Terminus Hotel). Steerage Passengers, 6 Rue Auber. Freight, 5 Rue des Mathurins. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 3 Principal Agencies L. Boyer, Principal Agent, 43 Quai d'Orleans, Havre. A. A. Salmon, Gen'l Agent, 36 Leadenhall St., London. Robert Emmet, Asst. Agent, 28 Chapel St., Liverpool. Principal America7i Agencies New York City : Eug. de Bocande, 32 Broadway. Boston, Mass.: Duncan Bailly-Blanchard, 103 State Street. Baltimore, Md.: Arthur W. Kobson, 133 E. Baltimore Street. Chicago, 111.: M, W. Kozminski, 71 Dearborn Street. New Orleans, La.: M. Orfila, 213 Carondelet Street. Philadelphia, Pa.: Jos E. Miller, 131 So. Fifth Street. San Francisco, Cal.: J. F. Fuga/i & Co., 5 .Montgomery Ave. Washington, D. C: G. W. Moss. 921 Pennsylvania Ave. Montreal, Canada: J. de Sieyes, 1672 Notre-Dame Street. When everything is taken into consideration, the price for the first cabins on the steamers of this line are undoubtedly moderate, but in regard to the rates asked for the second cabin, one is at a loss to understand how the Company can, for so modest a sum, give its passengers so comfortable quarters and serve a table almost equal — for the variety and daintiness of comestibles — and assuredly as abundant as that served in the first cabin. All of this leads the travelling public to make comparisons between the Compagnie Gene- rale Transatlantique and its competitors for public patronage, with the invariable verdict favoring the French line in about the following ratio : while its first-class cabins are beyond all comparisons, its second-class cabins are on a par with the first-class cabins of any other line — the same comparative gradation running throughout the scale. This is a matter well worthy the serious consideration of the travelling public. Precautions to be Taken Before Sailing One of the most essential conditions for traveUing with ease is the sufficiency of ready funds. However, it is im- prudent to carry about you a large sum of money which may keep you in a state of uneasiness. You can easily obviate this inconvenience by taking with you merely the sum necessary for current expenses and depositing the bulk of your money with a banking-house, taking in exchange a letter of credit. This will relieve you of all cares on that score. On the other hand, you should ascertain before parting with your money, that you are dealing not alone with a responsible house, but you must have also the abso- lute assurance of its uncontrovertible expeditiousness, in order that once in Paris, or in any other European city, you are not made to wait indefinitely for funds because the New York house has failed to notify in time its European 4 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE correspondent. You will not experience any such drawbacl by dealing with John Munroe & Co , 32 Nassau Street, New York, who issue letters of credit for the use of travellers, ii pounds sterling and francs. }n Paris, travellers holding thest credits will find the offices of Messrs. Munroe & Co., No. 7 Rue Scribe, most conveniently situated, near the Opera House and the hotels so much frequented by Americans Messrs. Munroe & Co. open deposit accounts for travellen subject to chsque, purchase and sell drafts on the United States, etc. If you are not a resident of New York, and without place in the city where letters or telegrams can reach you, give instructions to have them addressed directly on board ship, mentioning the name of the steamer upon which yoi have secured passage. All letters and telegrams received on board are placed upon the middle table in the parlor and remain on board until the last minute before leaving. The head-waiter, who speaks English, and who is at his post at the head of the main gangway, welcoming passengers on board, will give you all necessary information on the matter. Letters and telegrams can also be received on arrival at Havre. The tugboat whicli meets the steamer an hour before docking, brings the mail and dispatches, which are immediately distributed among the passengers. Advise all your would-be correspondents when addressing their missives to carefully inscribe: i. (Your name). 2. [Steatner's name), 3. {Code word : Transat.). 4. Havre. If you can receive telegrams, you also can send them until the very last moment before sailing, while on the arrival of the steamer on the other side the head-waiter will see that any message, by cable or land, is immediately dispatched. But here, allow me to give you a bit of information equally useful, for that matter, to those who may have to cable you during your stay in Europe — i. e., all such dispatches from New York should bear the extra direction "via P. Q." (no charge for these two words), because the French Cable Company having the only direct cable between the United States and France, its service is naturally the most rapid. There is another very essential precaution to be taken before sailing. It is not alone the choice of a hotel, but that of securing a room in the hotel you have selected. In Chapter II, you will find the necessary information upon that subject. By neglecting to take this precaution you will expose yourself, especially in Exposition times, to canvass HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 5 lotel after hotel without finding a suitable room, and be orced at last to lodge in miserable quarters. Such a begin- iing is of a nature to spoil your trip ; on the other hand, vith an ordinary amount of foresight, you will avoid all nnoyances susceptible to mar your sojourn in Paris. There- ore, some time before taking the steamer, you will have written to Paris for a room in the hotel of your choice, tating exactly, in accordance with the informations given m this subject in Chapter II of this Guide, the price you are v'illing to pay, the accommodation you require, and the date ou expect to take possession. If before stepping on board ou have neglected taking this precaution, you should give he head-waiter a cablegram formulated as follows (pads of ilank messages are to be found on the dining-room table) : Via P. Q. (via Frenc/i) Hotel Mo Street Paris ArriT'iiig [here give day and name of steamer] retain room francs. [Signature.] In Chapter III, we give the cable rates — which are the ame with all companies — advising to specify vza FrencJi. It is proper that I should add a last advice to all those I ave already given — and which may probably be considered uerile by those who are accustomed to cross the Atlan- ic, but it may be very useful to those who cross for the first ime and for whom this work is specially written. There- :)re, if, for any reason whatever, you entertain any doubt bout either your right of taking presents into France, or are 1 need of information about French law, I advise you to call t the French Consulate, 35 South William Street, New 'ork City. Mr. Bruwaert, the Consul General of France in Jew York, with his native amiability, will give you any iformation desired on those points. Passage Tickets We shall now speak about the manner of securing your lassage and berth. Those who reside in any other city than ■lew York, will find at page 3 the address of the branch gencies of the Conipagnie Generale Transatlantique, where hey can provide themselves with passage tickets. If you eside in New York, or reach the city without having pre- iously secured your passage, you should call at the prin- ipal office of the Company, No. 32 Broadway. At the head- uarters, as at the agencies, you will be shown the diagram idicating the interior appointments of the steamer whose 6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE departure coincide with the date you have fixed for sailing to Europe. The clerk will point out on the diagram the berths yet unsold and corresponding with the amount you intend paying. It seems superfluous for me to state that at the New York headquarters and on hoard the steamers of the Company the Engh'sh language is as fluently spoken as the French — Spanish is also generally spoken on board. But, in regard to your cabin, I feel here hke intruding with an advice which is especially intended for the tourist with fair means. If your trip is one of pleasure, an expense of twenty dollars more or less is not, after all, to be considered. There- fore, •! advise you to take an upper-deck cabin, but you will have to speak a long time ahead, for they are much sought after. During the last Paris Exposition the line had to refuse, on an average, over two hundred passengers every trip of its steamers. This is explained, not alone by the fact that the American public knows how to appreciate the comfortable existence one has on board the French steamers, but also because the French line is the Company which lands its passengers but four hours distant from Paris. I am so much in favor of securing on board the greatest comfort attainable, that I should strain a point, even to the extent of suggesting to spend one dollar per day less while in Paris, and engage, if at all possible, one of those cabtnes de luxe, in which you have all the luxury of a room at a first-class hotel, with private baths and toilet, especially if you can secure it on board La Touraine, IS Aguitaine, or on one of the two new steamers. La Lorraine or La Savoie. With your cabin and railroad tickets — for at Havre a special train carries the passengers to Paris on the arrival of the steamer — you will receive two blanks to be filled by you, they are as follows : CABIN BAGGAGE Berth No A/ame S. S. : Sailing igoo Cabin Bagp;age intended for Paris must be registered on hoard before arrival at Havre. HOLD BAGGAGE Must be registered on the dock before sailing. Passengers can have it checked on Wednes- day afternoon previous to departure. Name S. S Sailing igoo HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 7 With your passage ticket secured and your luggage checked, you have but to wait for the hour of sailing. In the event of your having been unable, owing to unfore- seen circumstances or negligence, to secure your passage in advance, you can do so on the steamer's wharf up to the last hour of sailing, provided there are any berths left, but do not count upon such good luck in the summer time, much less in Exposition times. Before advising you on matters specially affecting your comfort on board, I will give you an additional item of information of which many Parisians are not cognizant. If you have a friend in Paris who proposes to meet you at the railroad station, in order that he should not miss the arrival of the special train, write him to call at the head- quarters of the Compagnie Gen^rale Transatlantique, No. 6 Rue Auber, requesting for a telegram to be sent informing him of the hour passengers by your steamer will reach the Saint-Lazare station. He will thus receive the news six hours before your arrival in Paris, and lo cents will cover the cost of the service. The Departure On reaching the wharf, with your baggage carefully checked and counted, you should point out to the porters on the dock the pieces intended for the hold, and have them carried to the scales to be weighed by the Company's employes, to whom you show your ticket, and who will give you a small check for the number of pieces to be placed in the hold. You present this small check at the office in front of the first gangway, where, upon exhibiting your cabin ticket, the clerk will retain it in exchange for a bill of lading, which you must keep in a secure place, because, on landing in Havre you will need it to claim your baggage ; if lost, you would be subjected to great inconvenience before recovering your belongings. Return then to your hand par- cels, attendants are there awaiting your orders to carry them in your cabin. You are aware that Saratoga trunks are not tolerated in the cabins — a small flat trunk, known as s. cabin trunk, is all that is allowed. You should reach the steamer's dock at least one or two hours before sailing time, in order to avoid haste and con- fusion. On Board the Steamer Stepping on Board.— Free of cares, walk up to the gangway. On reaching the deck you will meet the head- 8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE waiter at the landing of the staircase which leads to the cabins. Show him your ticket and ask the way to your cabin, to which you will proceed immediately and ascertain whether all your parcels are there. If anything is missing, press the electric button at the side of the berth and the waiter who has charge of your quarters will come imme- diately and straighten matters. Having ascertained that all your parcels are on board, you are free to quietly return to the deck, and enjoy at ease the animated scene presented on board a large steamer on the eve of sailing. But if you have a dispatch to send or "a letter to write, ask the head-waiier or a. £-ar(on (waiter) — all speak English — to show you the parlor, where you will find the necessary writing material and blanks. Intrust letters and dispatches to the care of the head-waiter, and you may rest assured that neither will go astray through his neglect. If friends and relatives have come on board to bid you don voyage, do not feel anxious about the danger of their remaining too long and being carried off. An employe goes around ringing a first bell, which is the signal for the final adieus ; while the second bell, which is rung a little later, warns you that in a few minutes the gangways will be re- moved — the time has come for your friends and relatives to leave. Leaving the Dock. — The gangways have been heaved down, the regulation ear-splitting blasts have been sounded by the steamer's whistle, the huge floating mass slowly glides off the dock, myriads of handkerchiefs flutter, the loving hand shoots the parting kiss, the vessel has cleared its watery cradle, the friendly faces grow less distinct, you are off for the shores of France ! Speeding slowly over the last stretch of the Hudson River, with the metropolis and its giraffe-like sky-scrapers on the left, while on the right the State of New Jersey unfolds a panorama of intercepted heights and swamps (dignifiedly called meadows), you suddenly enter the inner bay, leaving on your right the Statue of Liberty, fruitlessly Enlightening the World ; a few turns of the screw and you have reached the straight dividing Long Island from Staten Island, and which leads into the incomparable bay of New York proper, thence through the Narrows— passing the Quarantine, with Coney Island, Rockaway and Long Beach successively on your left, and the imposing Highlands of Navesink on your forward right, you finally pass through the Sandy Hook HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 9 channel, the gateway to the ocean, where the steamer is given rein after dismissing the pilot. Having reached the high sea, the spectacle assumes the monotony of blue skies and dark green waters, the moment is well chosen to seek your cabin in order to gather your valuables into a box or parcel along with the bulk of your money, keeping only enough pocket money for the trip. You intrust it to the steward ; if the total value is over $i,ooo, he will give you a receipt, and tax you at the rate of one per cent.; if you desire, he will also receipt for a lesser amount — this will relieve you of all anxiety during the trip. Notwith- standing that nothing should be feared on the part of the employes of the Company, this precaution should not be neglected. Little is known about the character of many of the passengers, and it may happen, as in the case of many hotels, that an unscrupulous gentleman might proceed with a domiciliary visit to your cabin while you are dreamily reposing on deck. Moreover, the steward, as its name implies, is not merely a commissary general, but he is at the same time the cashier of the board. He is the dispenser of favors as well as the righter of wrongs ; therefore, if you have any particular claims to make or favors to ask, you should have recourse to him. For instance, if you are in the second cabins, and desires, for one reason or another, to change to first cabins ; or again, if you want to change your cabin for a better and a higher priced one, it is with the steward that those matters should be settled. He will operate the change for you, and charge pro rata for the remaining days of the trip. You should also, at the veiy beginning of the voyage — unless you have brought yoiir own, or have secured one in taking your ticket, or that you have decided to cloister your- self in your cabin — secure a reclining chair, for which a charge of one dollar is made. Life ou Board On the first day, especially with the noon breakfast — which on that day is not served at the regular hour — places at the table being yet unassigned, everybody sits where he pleases. However, do not infer from this experience that life on board is not regulated. Already, at the dinner in the evening, the head-waiter will assign you at the table a place which you will occupy during the whole voyage. Since we are speaking about meals — one of the principal distractions on board — I will here give you the hours at lO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE which they are served. As early as 7 in the morning, you will hear the sound of a bell through the passageways. It announces the first or small breakfast, which is served until 9 o'clock. If, through habit or indolence, you do not care rising before 9, the waiter (for men) or the chambermaid (for women) will bring you the coffee in your cabin. You have the privilege — although it is not customary with the French — to order a regular breakfast, such as you may be accustomed to partake of while at hoine, but as the regular breakfast will be served at 11 o'clock, it is considered unad- visable to load one's stomach at so early an hour. The regular breakfast lasts from 1 1 until i o'clock. This implies that every one drops along at his or her own sweet UM H^^IFWBBI ^H 1 P^^^y^fHIl^^ 1 f ^:m^ ■ i B 1 '^ .„^pH 1 ^M ^■^ip j jH I ■ Bf^v^"^ I H 1 Bto 1 1 M iff ^ mi HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE II will. It is not expected that you should appear in an elaborate toilet at this meal ; however, a too accentuated neglige would assuredly be improper. The dinner is more dressy, and you are expected to make your appearance in correct form. It is served punctually at 6.30, and ordinarily lasts about two hours. If, between meal times — or at any time, for that matter — you should feel hungry, the waiters on deck will bring you chicken, roastbeef or ham sandwiches. The hours of meals — regular breakfast and dinner — are rung on deck and in the passageways. The first belPis rung half an hour before meals, to give you time to prepare, and the second bell at the precise time set for the meal. A comfortable bathing-room is near your cabin, with an attendant who will have everything in readiness if you fix in advance the hour at which you desire taking your daily bath. When you retire at night leave your shoes at the door to be polished. There is also a barber shop on board, in charge of a competent barber. One of the most agreeable pastimes on board is to remain on deck, contemplating the immensity of the ocean, and in turn pursue the reading of an interesting book. You can buy at the ship's well-stocked library English and French works. At twelve o'clock noon, the steamer's whistle lets out a shrill blast which announces the exact time of the day. Regulate your watch — which will be about forty minutes slow — other- wise, on landing in France it would be five hours and a half behind time. Twelve o'clock is the time for the navigator to ascertain the position of the ship and to compute the run made in the previous twenty-four hours. On the marine chart, hung in the stairs leading to the parlor, a small flag indicates the position of the ship, and below the number of miles covered. Description of the Vessel The steamers of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique being built upon two distinct models, it becomes necessary, in order to give an adequate idea of the distribution specially affecting the appointments reserved to the passengers, to describe in turn one type each of the two models. On board La Gascogne, La Breiagne and La Cham- pagne, the gangway which leads to that portion of the main deck reserved to third-class cabins faces the door opening on the main stairway at the left of the parlor; immediately underneath, and thiough the railed aperture in the centre of 12 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE the parlor, is seen the great dining-saloon, with passageways at its four corners, along which cabins are distributed on both sides. After going through the dining-saloon and the passageway on the right, a staircase leads to the smoking- room, with port-holes and doors opening on the main deck. The spar-deck above— which is the promenade deck— runs the full length of the ship. It is shaded by awnings, and the ship's boats are fastened along the railing. " In the new vessels, La Tottraine, L'Aquitamc, La Savoie and La Lorraitie, these various accommodations are raised one story. The large dining-saloon is replaced by a small dining-room for children, and above, on the main deck, is found the large dining-room, while one story still higher,' at the centre of the spar or promenade deck, is the parlor, with HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 13 the smoking-room forward, and aft about ten large cabins, with baths and toilets. A promenade over three yards wide, on each side, affords plenty of room for exercise. Attached to the bath-rooms, on board of all steamers of the Company, is a boudoir for ladies wishing to rest. The dining-room has a capacity of two hundred and fifty covers, spread upon three long tables and two rows of small tables, with revolving seats screwed to the floor, thus pre- venting crowding. When the number of guests exceeds the seating capacity, two dinners are successively served. In the interval between meals, this luxurious dining-room is transformed into a parlor, and the tables, cleared and decorated, are covered with rich red cloth. Here you can write or read, and until 1 1 P. M. the waiters in attendance will serve anything you may desire. The parlor is provided, on its four sides, with upholstered divans and has a rich library where you can purchase the latest works. When fatigued by promenading in the open air, you can retire in this parlor and read the three or four first chapters of this book, in order to be familiarized with its contents before reaching Paris. The smoking-room — which is open until 11 P. M. — is re- served, as its name implies, to men for smoking, card-playing and talking. A waiter is always in attendance ; he will serve you sandwiches and drinks. Naturally, you will find here smoking tobacco, cigars and cigarettes of the Company's selection ; all excellent, but moderate in price. Neariu^ Land After six days' ordinary sailing the time is approaching when land will loom up on the horizon. In the vague dis- tance you begin to perceive a greyish speck, which increases in size and density until you are told that it is Point Bishop, a promontory on the Scilly Islands. But it is only six hours later, at the Lizard, that in the day-time the steamer unfurls at the bow a set of blue, white and red flags, or shows lights of the same colors at night, and is signalled to Paris and Havre, where the transatlantic train is ordered to be made up. The first light made out on the coasts of France, about one hundred miles from Havre, is that of the Casquets, on the reefs of Aurigny ; thence fifty miles further on appears the ten-second double flash light of Barfleur, and, finally, the five-second flash light of Cape H^ve, which marks the entrance to the port of Havre. 14 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE In the day-time, four hours from Havre, you will succes- sively notice on the starljoard first Cotentin, then the Cape of the Hague, Cherbourg, Barfieur and last the Heve, behind which are masked St. Adresse and Havre. But before making Cape Heve the steamer slows down for the pilot to come aboard. About one hour from Havre you will make out a tugboat, a small model of La Touraine, speeding towards the steamer. It is the Titan, the powerful tug of the Company. It has on board the mail and dispatches for the passengers, and files of the New York Herald. The tug follows and will help the steamer in its evolutions. The time has now come to make ready for landing. Landing at Havre On the eve of your arrival at Havre, the head-waiter goes around the cabins with an aid, and pastes a numbered label upon your steamer trunk and those parcels you do not care to take on the train. He will give you a counterpart of that numbered label, which you should keep with the baggage- check received in New York. This again will relieve you of all baggage cares until Paris is reached. According to circumstances, there are two modes of land- ing — if the steamer has to wait for the tide to make her dock, the tugboat comes alongside and lands those of the passengers who prefer to await in Havre, at the Hotel Frascati, for the fast train, or chance it upon an ordinary train, for which your railroad ticket is good ; however, no baggage, except your small parcels, is allowed ashore — all baggage has to go by the steamer's fast train. When the steamer makes fast to the dock — either directly or after having laid at anchor for the tide — the time is well chosen to hand the head-waiter your dispatches, giving him at the same time a fee in proportion to the services rendered. The table waiter and cabin boy, or chambermaid, are ordi- narily tipped after the last meal taken on board. If you have more than one trunk, I would advise you to wire the Compagnie de I'Ouest for a conveyance, stating the number of persons in your party. This will save you much annoyance. Your telegram should be addressed to the station master as follows : Chef-Gare, Saint-Lazare, Paris, stating the number of persons, train, name of hotel, and signature. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I5 Omnibus Rates of the Compagrnie (le I'Ouest OMNIBUS ET VOITURES DE LA CQMPAGNIE Omnibus de famille OMNIBUS AND COACH RATES Family Omnibus Bagage (30 Kilos par voyageur) compris : 436 places 18 a 22 places Privilege of 67 lbs. baggage fur each. Seating 4 to 6 Seating 18 to 22 De 6 h, du ma- tin a minuit. . De minuit a 6 h. dii matin .... Siirtaxe pour arret en route : Sur I'itineraire. . Entrainant un detour Courses extra-mu- ros, de gre a gre. fr. 5.00 6.00 1. 00 2.50 fr. 12 15 3 3 From 6 A. M. un- til midnight.. From midnigiit until 6 A. M Extra for stopping ; On the direct itinerary .... Outside do. do. Fix prices in ad- vance outside Paris. 5 frs. 6 " I " 2h " 12 frs. 15 " 3 " 3 " Carriage Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest Voitures de remise a 4 places et a galeries pour bagages Interieur de Paris, surtaxe pour bagages: i colis, 25 c; 2 colis, 50 c; 3 coils, et plus, 75 c. De 6 h. mat. en ete et de 7 h. mat. en hiver a minuit 30: La course. L'heure.. . De minuit 30 a 6 h du mat. en ete et a 7 h. du matin en hiver : La course. . . . L'heure Non rc- tenue a I'avance fr. 2.00 2.50 2.50 2.75 Rete- nue i I'avance fr.3-50 3-50 4- 50 4.50 Coach seating 4 with railed tops for baggage Inside Paris. Extra for baggage: I piece, }i fr. ; 2 pieces, ^ fr.; 3 pieces or more, ^ fr. From 6 a. m. sum- mer & y A. M. vifin- ter till 12.30 A. M The ride The hour From 12.30 A. M. until 6 A. M. sum- mer, and 7 A. M. winter. The ride The hour If not If hired hired in in advance advance 2 frs. 2i " 2i " 2f " si frs. 3i " 4i " 4i " If you have not retained a room at the hotel, it is yet time to do so by sending a telegram worded as at page 5, adding the time of your arrival ; and in case you have cabled for a room, it is prudent to wire the hour of your arrival. Meantime, the gangways have been made fast to the ship, and the passengers are descending upon the wharf. They file in front of the custom officers, who examine the small parcels, which are afterwards carried by the waiters on board the train. The heavy baggage is examined in Paris, so you have now but to wait for the departure of the train, which takes place about one hour after landing. I6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE The Steamer's Train It is an American vestibule train, modeled after the Pullman's (belonging to \S\& Conipagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits), and composed of five passenger cars and a restaurant car, in which eatables and drinkables are served in first-class style. Besides the regular train crew, and the staff of the restaurant car who both speak French and English, there is on the train a representative of the Com- pagnie Transatlantique and an interpreter, to whom you may have recourse in case you need their services on your arrival in Paris, as explained in the following chapter. You now travel on a branch of the trunk line known as the Compagnie de I'Ouest, which is one of the best equipped roads amoiig the great continental lines. The distance between Havre and Paris is made in about four hours, traversing a country under the highest state of cultivation, where every inch of soil is tilled and made to produce. Quiet hamlets and villages, busy towns and beautiful cities in turn appear and vanish until the iron-horse, feverishly burning the space, draws the train at the Saint-Lazare sta- tion in Paris. CHAPTER II A FIRST INSIGHT OF PARIS The Selection of a Hotel As stated in the preceding chapter, during the Exposi- tion the three or four large hotels with which foreigners are 1 uuiliar will be so crowded that it will be difficult to secure (|uarters in any of them. But there are other hotels, superior ill every respect — you should not forget that size does not signify quality — where you can secure very comfortable quar- ters, provided you take the precaution of writing in time for it. An ordinary room will cost from five to six francs, but there are rooms quoted as high as 40 francs per day ; how- ever, real and complete comfort, without luxury, can be secured in these hotels for twelve francs for one person or fifteen francs for two. Unless you are deterred from doing so by family reasons or for acquaintance's sake, it is preferable to live on the right bank of the Seine. You should be particular about the neighborhood, not merely on account of its distance from the centre of the city — five minutes' walk more or less is no matter — but you should be in the proximity of all the advantages Paris offers its inhabitants, instead of being relegated to a solitary street in a dormant quarter, for it is very disagreeable for a stranger to walk home at night through deserted streets. Moreover, the facilities and throb- bing life afforded by the great boulevards, should favor the selection of a hotel in their vicinity. We do not piopose recommending one hotel in preference to another, all are equally deserving. We give the rates of each, leaving the traveller to make a choice in due time and thus avoid all possible disappointment. List of Hotels Hotel Meurice, No. 228 Rue de Rivoli, facing on the Tuileries ; rooms from 6 frs., dinner 6 frs., wine extra. Hotel Brighton, at No. 218, same street and same prices. Hotel St. James and Albany, at No. 202, rooms from 4 to 15 frs., 15 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE meals from 4 to 6 frs. and 6 to 8 frs., wine extra. On the Place Vendome, the hotels Bristol, du Rhin and Vendome, all three under the same management. On the Rue de Castiglione, No. 6, the Hotel Metropole, rooms from 6 frs., dinner 6 frs., wine extra ; at No. 12, the Hotel Castiglione ; at No. 4, Hotel Balmoral, rooms from 7 frs., meals 4 to 6 frs. On the Rue de la Paix, at No. 8, Hotel Mirabeau, rooms 6 to 8 frs.; at No. 11, Hotel de Westminster ; at No„ 18, Hotel de Hollande ; at No. 22, Hotel des lies Britan- niques. On the Avenue de I'Opera, at No. 30, Hotel Belle- vue, rooms from 4 to 15 frs., meals from 5 to 7 frs.; at No. 22, the Hotel des Deux-Mondes. On the Rue Royale, Hotel Maxii7i. On the Boulevard des Capucines, No. 37, there is the hotel named after the boulevard, with rooms at 5 to 15 frs., and meals 4 to 6 frs. On the Boulevard des Italiens, at No. 32, the Hotel de Bade, and at No. 3 the Hotel de Russie. The Hotel Beau-Scjour is at No. 30 Boulevard Poissonniere. Not quite so centrally situated, we find, at No. 16 Rue de la '^\&xd2a'~,'3iTLC^\h^ Hotel Alexandra, day-boarding, 9 to 12 frs. No. 14 Rue Caumartin, //c^/^/^^ /« Grande-Bretagne. On the Place Louvois the Hotel Louvois. Hotel Britannia, No. 24 Rue d' Amsterdam. Central Hotel, No. 40 Rue du Louvre. Hotel Cusset, Rue Richelieu. Hotel Foyot, Rue de Tournon. Hotel Lavenue, at the railway station Mont- parnasse. Finally, on the Champs-Elysees, the Hotel Meyerbeer, at the cycle {rond-point). The Hotel d'Albe, No. loi Avenue des Champs-Elysees, with rooms at 5 to 12 frs., and meals 5 to 7 frs. There are also several new hotels recently constructed on the Trocadero and at Passy, with Principal offices at No. 5 Boulevard des Capucines. Leading Hotels or " Hotels de (irand Luxe " The Palace Hotel, No. 103 Avenue des Champs-Elysees, is located in a sumptuous and newly erected edifice, with all the modern appliances for comfort, rooms from 7 to 50 frs., meals 6 to 8 frs. //(j/^/i?//^', on the Place Vendome; the Grattd Hotel, 12 Boulevard des Capucines ; Hotel Continen- tal, 3 Rue de Castiglione; Grand Hotel du Louvre, 172 Rue de Rivoli ; Hotel Terminus, at the Saint-Lazare rail- road station. All of these hotels charge about the same prices — from 4 to 40 frs. for rooms and 5 to 8 frs. for meals. The Hotel Moderne, on the Place de la Republique, belongs to the same category, although its charges are more moderate, with rooms at 3 to 15 frs. and meals 4 to 5 frs. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 19 Reaching' the Railroad Station in Paris Upon the arrival of the train at the station, porters come aboard to take charge of your small packag-es, which you should first gather in your place, ascertaining their number. If you have but one grip-sack and three or four small parcels, you will need but one porter. Tell him — or have the interpreter which is on tht; train tell him for you — to carry the parcels to your carriage. The Choice of a Conyeyance If it has not been ot'dered in advance. — Here you are again facing the carriage problem, which has been partially explained in the preceding chapter, when we inferred that you had quite a number of parcels, or were one of a party travelling together, advising you in both cases to telegraph to the Compagnie de I'Ouest to secure you a carriage or an omnibus. In the present emergency the porter should carry your baggage to an ordinary cab {fiacre') with railed-top if you have many heavy pieces of baggage, and without it if you have merely but one trunk. To leave the Railroad Station — While the porter is carry- ing your small parcels, a custom-house officer will ask you whether you have anything dutiable, and he may sometimes insist on examining one or more of your parcels. After satis- fying this exigency, you will ascertain from the porter the number of your cab ; have him place your parcels inside, being careful to ascertain that none of your belongings are missing. Then the porter will extend his hand, place in it eight or ten cents. In case you have several trunks, and have had several men engaged to carry them, or that one performed the work alone, the tip ought to be increased proportionately. Once your carriage and its number secured, you re-enter the station by the way you came out, and ask one of the attendants: Bagages ! He will point out a door, which is. ordinarily closed, and, in the company of other travellers, you v/ill wait patiently for its opening. If you have retained a carriage. — ^Take your card, or else write your name upon a piece of paper, and ask the interpreter to tell the guard (or tell the guard directly, if you speak French) that you have secured a carriage by tele- graph. Then you merely follow the porter, he will do the rest and lead you to your carriage. As in the preceding case, see that your hand baggage is complete, and after having 20 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE carefully taken the number of your carriage and tipped the porter, retrace your steps to the station and in front of the baggage-room door. In the Bagg'ag^e-Room When the door opens, go forward, holding in your hand your baggage check or checks, which you show to any of the attendants, who will indicate the compartment where your baggage should be. Then look in that compartment for a porter dressed in blue overalls — same costume as the one who took charge of your hand baggage — give him the baggage checks, he will do the rest. But remember his looks, and in the meantime keep your place, for he may, after gathering your baggage, seek you to open your trunks ■for the custom-house officer who may want to examine them. After the porter has conducted you to the spot where he has gathered your baggage, you must first ascertain whether it is complete and in order. Once this done, wait for the custom-house officer whom the porter is seeking. Examination of Baggage. — The officer will ask you if you have anything dutiable (alcohol, tobacco, cigars, laces, etc.), and will indicate the trunks he wants you to unlock. After examining the contents, he will chalk on your trunks a special sign, and then you may close them. Give the porter the number of your hack so as to enable him to carry your trunks, and when he takes the last one follow him. Again ascertain that all your baggage is loaded, and give the porter a tip of lo cents if you have but one trunk, of 15 cents if you have two, etc. Step inside the carriage and give the driver the address of your hotel. If you do not speak French, you should give the driver the name and address of the hotel in writing. Bagg'age by Express While the above is the usual way of proceeding, it is not the most expeditious, since it oftentimes forces the traveller to the inconvenience of waiting a long time for the unloading of baggage. The better way, in my estimation, is to give, on the arrival of the train, your baggage checks to an express, as in New York. This can be done at the railroad stations Saint-Lazare, Lyon or Orleans only, where the Agency of the Voyages Diicheiiiin are located. The cost of transportation from the station to your hotel is 6 cents per 25 lbs., the minimum charge is i franc. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 21 This will enable you to take along your small parcels and drive directly to the hotel. The same agency, with main offices at No. 20 Rue de Grammont, will take charge, at your departure, if notified twenty-four hours in advance, of your baggage for delivery and checking at all the stations, for the same price, but at a minimum of lYz francs. At the Hotel On entering the hotel, the janitor {concierge) will relieve you of your small parcels, while the porters will unload your baggage. Go to the office, and ascertain whether the room assigned to you is suitable in every respects. Have the hotel pay the hackman, this will obviate the necessity of any explanation with the latter. We have already given the rates of carriage fares for conveyances secured by telegraph from the Railroad Company, page 15. For the cabs {fiacres) ihe fares are as follows : r- u -^u * . •!■ ./ f t ^ fi'- additional be- Cabs without top-railmg, xy^ frs. ) ^*. • 1 • u* 1 • ., ,. ' ,, ^ ^ ,, < tween midnight and with " " 2 " ] „ , , ^ ( 7 A. M. In addition to these fixed rates add X ^^- P^r trunk and Y fr. for the driver. Parisian Customs and Habits Now that you are installed into your room, it becomes neces- sary that you should get in contact with Parisian customs and habits, which differ notably from those prevailing in the United States or England. In the first place, in Paris, the custom of taking hot coffee or chocolate with a bread-roll in tne morning is almost general. And here, it is quite impor- ant to bear in mind that in Parisian hotels of whatever ^rade, an extra charge is made for the service of meals in the rooms, be they small meals or full repasts. Moreover, the real or principal breakfast is served from ir A.M. until I P. M.; the dinner, from 6.30 until 8 P. M. Consequently, if you propose to take your meals regularly at the hotel, you should make an arrangement fixing the price per day or by the week for your room, the meals (com- prising the small and regular breakfast and the dinner), as well as the attendance (serru'ce) and lighting ; the two last items are seldom included in the price of the room, and average an extra charge of 2 to 3 francs. Therefore, when debating the price of your room, it is advisable to have attendance and lightiftg included in the agreement. When your stay in the hotel is for more than one week, it is cus- 22 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE tomary for the proprietor to present his bill on Saturday, and you are expected to pay it in the twenty-four hours fol- lowing. Should you have made no previous arrangements for your meals, you may have to pay cash for them, as most hotels do not " charge " restaurant checks. A Few Practical Counsels Here I will take the liberty of giving some advice to tourists, which may entail light pecuniary disadvantages, but, on the other hand, it will largely compensate them by securing greater freedom of action and economy of time. With this object in view, I would advise the tourist not to enter into any arrangement as to meals at the hotel. Paris is quite a large city, with broadly disseminated points of interest, entailing long journeys, and consequently you may oftentimes find yourself at meal times in a quarter away from your hotel and desirous to refresh yourself in the neighborhood. The alternative is either a sacrifice of time or of money. Since I am upon the counselling chapter, I may be allowed to continue, and summarize here all what is suggested by experience. First, banish from your mind the idea that you will accom- plish wonders by rising early. The Parisian may sometimes reach his couch as late as seven in the morning, but he seldom leaves his home before nine. Therefore, if the fancy of taking a walk before nine entices you in the streets, do not anticipate to see the brilliant Paris of your imagination, you will simply see Paris at its ablutions and engaged at its toilet. The city, until about 8 o'clock, is in the hands of the street cleaners, and the shops and public establishments and cafes are not yet opened. Forego also prom.enading with a satchel hanging to a shoulder strap and containing your money and jewelry. There are no more crooks in Paris than anywhere else, but rest assured that it has its quota, and of the smartest kind. You should not court the risk of being relieved of your valu- ables in order to ascertain the dexterity of the Parisian crook. My advice is to take with you merely the sum necessary to defray the day's expenses, depositing the bulk in the hotel safe, and taking a receipt for the same. While I am writing about the dangers one may encounter visiting Paris — these remarks are specially devoted to men — I will specially caution them against the night oivls that are lurking under the arcades of the Rue de Rivoli, promenading HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 23 on the Boulevards and found also in those places of amuse- ment "^hunned by all respectable women. When out slum- ))ii)ig, only take with you the sum of money you have decided not to bring back. French Coins and Bank-notes In order that you should not be imposed upon about the value of the French subsidiary and gold coins, and the paper-money, the following dlustrated table is given, with its equivalent in American money : French denominations. , American denominations. J S ) 5 centimes (i sou) i cent gj° / 10 centimes (2 sous) 2 cents f 50 centimes (10 sous) .... 10 cents o g ! I franc (20 sous) 20 cents •^g I 2 francs (40 sous) 40 cents i 5 francs (100 sous) i dollar r 5 francs i dollar 2 S J 10 francs 2 dollars 03 I -o francs (un louis) 4 dollars [ I GO francs (seldom used). . 20 dollars f 50 francs 10 dollars ■^i \ 100 francs 20 dollars ^g I 500 francs 100 dollars [ 1000 francs 20c dollars It must be understood that the equivalency figured in the above table is not absolutely e.xact, as the dollar is really worth 5 francs and 17 centimes, but its approximation is sufficiently near to give the traveller a practical idea of the corresponding value in American money of what he disburses when called to pay in French money. Exchange and Brokers The money broker will retain a commission upon the real value, this commission varies according to the broker. Among the reputable brokerage houses are : Le Comptoir National d' Escompfe, main office Rue Ber- gere, branch at the corner of the Avenue de TOpera and Rue du 4-Septembre. La Banqiie Internatiotialc, 3 Rue Saint-Georges; La Batique Parzsieufie, Rue Chauchat, and the banking-house of Rothschild, 21 Rue Laffite. Furthermore, you have the privilege of several safe- deposits, for short or extended use, at the Comptoir d' Es- coinpte, etc., etc. Hotels generally will change your money, but they charge more than the brokers. 24 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I have advised you precedingly to deposit your money in the hotel safe, but in the case of important sums, it is pre- ferable, as I have remarked at the beginning of this work, page 4, to secure in New York a letter of credit upon a Paris bank, who will furnish you with French money as you need it. American Embassy and Consulate Before closing this chapter, it is proper to state that the United States are represented in Paris by an Ambassador — to whom you may have recourse in case of any untoward acci- dent — and by a Consul-General, at whose office you should register, because when travelling in a foreign country, with the likelihood of a constant changing of address, letters from home can always be directed to the Consulate, with the request to forward to your latest address. The American Embassy is at No. 24 Avenue Kleber. The Consulate at No. 36 Avenue de I'Opera. British Embassy, No. 39 Rue Saint-Honore. The office hours are from 11 A. M. until 3 P. M. at both embassies and consulates. Newspapers and Periodicals In order to complete the list of useful informations a nomenclature of the Paris press is indispensable, and I will begin with the morning papers : The New York Herald (Paris edition), published every day in the year. Office, No. 49 Avenue de I'Opera. Price : Paris, 3 cents, and 5 cents elsewhere. Terms to subscribers, free of postage. Daily (including Sunday) : Paris. France. Abroad. One month 4.50 frs. 5 frs. 6 frs. Three months i3-5o 15 18 Six months. 27.00 30 36 One year 50.00 58 70 ■Sunday edition only : Paris. France and Abroad Three months 4 frs. 5 frs. Six months 8 10 One year 15 20 London : For advertisements, subscriptions and sale of papers, Trafalgar Buildings, i Northumberland Avenue. Subscriptions and advertisements for both the New York and Paris editions of the Herald will be received at regular rates at any of these offices. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 25 Le Journal, daily, I cent, No. 100 Rue Richelieu. Le Ganlois, daily, 3 cents. I.e Steele, daily, 2 cents. The Petit Bleu, daily, l cent. L' Echo de Paris, daily, i cent. Le Voltaire, daily, 2 cents. No. 24 Rue Chauchat. Le Figaro, daily, 3 cents. Rue Drouhot. L" Autoritc, daily, i cent. No. 4 bis Rue du Bouloi. Le Petit Parisien, daily, i cent. No. 20 Boulevard Mont- martre. Le Gil Bias, daily, 3 cents, No. 33 Rue de Provence. Le Petit Journal, daily, i cent, Rue La Fayette. Le Paris, daily, i cent. La Patrie, daily, i cent. Rue du Croissant. Le Temps, daily, 3 cents, No. 7 Boulevard des Italiens. Journal des Dcbats, daily, 2 cents. La Presse, daily. No. 12 Rue du Croissant. Le Soir', daWy, 3 cents, No. 24 Rue Chauchat. Le Correspondant is the oldest French review, being in its seventy-first year. Its programme embraces Religion, Politics, Philosophy, History, Sciences, Social Economy, Travels, Literature, Fine Arts, etc., etc., in a word, everything concerning contemporaneous questions. Its editorial staff, recruited in the ranks of the best con- servative and moderate writers, enables it to follow closely questions of actuality in France and foreign countries and to furnish readily competent appreciations from varied points of view upon all matters. It devotes a large space to Corres- pondences and unpublished Memoirs. Among others. Sou- venirs de Tocqueville ; Memoires de Mr. Gontaut-Biron, Ambassador to Berlin ; Memoir es de Trochu ; Souvenirs de M. Octave Feuillet ; Mcmoires de Chenelong, in which are recounted the negociations with the Count de Cham- bord, etc., etc. Among the contributors are the Duke of Broglie, the Marquis Costa de Beauregard and the Viscount de Bornier, Mr. Thureau-Dangin, Mr. Frangois Coppee, the Count de Mun, of the French Academy ; Mr. Arthur Desjardins, Mr. de Lapparent, the Marquis de Vogue, of the Institute ; Messrs. Etienne Lamy, Rene Bazin, Edouard Rod, Count Grabinski, Henri Chantavoine, de Parville, Maurice Talmeyr, de Na- daillac, Ed. Bire, Pierre de la Force, Keller, de Lanzac, de Labori, Nourrisson, Baron Denys-Cochin, A. Delaire; Mmes. Caro, Dieulafoy, Dronsart, Bentson, de Baulny nee Ronter, ^'^ra Melegari, etc., etc. 26 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Its offices in Paris are at No. 14 Rue de I'Abbaye. Count de Lavedan, editor. The subscription per year, 35 frs.; six months, 18 frs.; single copy, 2>^ francs. Same prices for foreign countries. La Revue des Deux-Mondes, founded by F. Buloz, has entered in its sixty-sixth year. It is undeniably the foremost among French reviews. It prints 20,000 copies, and its sub- scribers are principally among the educated and rich classes of the whole world. It is under the editorship of the eminent academician, Mr. F. Brunetiere. It is published on the ist and 15th of each month. It contains a novel, a political leader, musical, literary and scientific reviews ; articles upon French and foreign literature, on historical and philosophical questions, travals, and economic movements, etc. Offices, No. 15 Rue de I'Universite. Subscription rates : Paris, one year, 50 frs.; Departments, one year, 56 frs.; six months. 26 and 29 frs. respectively. La Nouvelle Revue has reached its twenty-first year. It was founded by Mme Juliette Adam, who remained at its head until the beginning of the year ; Mr. Ghensi has now assumed the editorial management of this political, literary and artistic publication, which appears on the ist and 15th of the month. Offices : No. 26 Rue Racine. Subscription rates : France, one year, 45 frs.; six months, 24 frs.; three months, 12 frs. Foreign countries, 55, 30 and 16 frs. respectively. La Revue de Paris is published on the 1st and 1 5th of the month; it is in its seventh year; single copies, ly^ frs. Offices, No. 85 bis Faubourg Saint-Honore. Subscription: Paris, one year, 48 frs.; six months, 24 frs.; three months, 12 frs. France, one year, 54 frs.; six months, 27 frs.; three months, 13 frs. Foreign, one year, 60 frs.; six months. 30 frs.; three months, 15 frs. La Grande Revue \s a monthly published on the ist of the month It is in its fourth year, with Mr. Fernand Labori as editor. The offices are at No. 11 Rue de Crenelle. Subscrip- tion : Paris, one year, 30 frs.; six month's, 16 frs.; three months, 8 frs. France, one year, 33 frs.; six months, 17 frs.; three months, 9 frs. Foreign, one year, 36 frs.; six months, 19 frs.; three months, 10 frs. La Revue Bleue was founded in 1863 by Eugene Yung. It is a weekly published on Saturday. Its present editor is Mr. Henry Ferrari, This review will keep you abreast of the literary and theatrical movement, while it gives a well HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE VJ digested outlook upon current topics. Offices: No. 19 Rue des Saints-Peres. A scientific supplement, under the title of the Revue Rose, s a valuable addition. It is published on the same day and sells at the same price. Les Atinales politiques et litter aires are under the edi- torial management of Mr. J. Brisson. It is an illustrated weekly periodical known all over the world. It publishes novels, specially written for it by such celebrated writers as Paul Bourget, Andre Theuriet, Jules Claretie, Pierre Loti, P. et V. Marguerite, and many others ; a weekly synopsis of the intellectual movement is also given, as well as musical pieces and engravings. It is the most popular and less costly of all the periodicals of the same size and same cate- gory. Its subscription list reaches 80,000, it is read by at least 500,000. Offices : No. 1 5 Rue Saint-Georges. Sub- scription : France, one year, 10 frs.; six months, 5K frs. Foreign, one year, 12 frs.; six months, 6^ frs. Many other periodicals are published in the interest of the several political parties and literary groups, the nomenclature of which would be too extensive ; however, I think it useful to mention here — La Mode lUiistri'e, which is published on Sunday, under the management of Mme E. Raymond. It consists of 16 pages in-4to with a colored plate, a literary supplement, with a variety of patterns and models. This publication was founded in i860. Offices: No. 56 Rue Jacob. Subscription; Paris, three months, 3 frs.; six months, 6 frs.; one year, 12 frs. Departments, three months, 3/^ frs.; six months, 7 frs.; one year, 14 frs. CHAPTER III OF THINGS ESSENTIAL TO KNOW Definite Selection of Quarters If your stay in Paris is limited to two or three weeks, the hotel, undoubtedly, is the preferable abode ; but in the event that you have projected a longer sojourn, you may find it advisable to deprive yourself of the more comfortable appointments of an hotel — which are more or less expensive — and stop at a boarding-house, or live in furnished rooms, some of which are very comfortable and easily procured. In regard to boarding-houses, the Villa Marguerite, at Neuilly, and the Joli Sejour, Avenue de la Grande Armee, can be recommended to families; moreover, their prices are rea- sonable. At the Restaurant ♦ I have already remarked that it was more practical and agreeable to take breakfast and dinner at the restaurant, in a Hve quarter of the city, than to retrace one's steps to the hotel for meals. Here is a list and addresses of a few restaurants, the best in their respective neighborhood, where you can be well served. In the emergency that you should be in doubt of your whereabouts, show the driver the address of these restaurants and tell him to drive you to the nearest. In this list the restaurants are classed in two different cate- gories, those at a fixed price for each meal, and those where you are served h la carte. Restaurants which serve meals at fixed PRICES. — Some hotels, as the Continental and the Grand Hotel, post at their door the breakfast and dinner bills of fare served at fixed prices. They are the two dearest places. The breakfast varies from 5 to 7 frs., and the dinner from 7 to 8 frs. Other establishments quote lower prices, varying between 4 and 2 frs. Among them, the l)hier de Paris (one of the oldest), at No. 12 Boulevard Montmartre. — HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 29 Diner frangai's, 27 Boulevard des Italiens. — Tavcrne dii Negrc, 15 Boulevard Saint-Denis. — Bonvalet, 29 Boulevard du Temple. — 'Taverne G ruber, i Boulevard Beaumarchais (at the Bastille). — At the Railroad Station Saint-Lazare, the Restaurant moderne, kept by Scossa. — At the Palais Royal, Vefour, kept by Vidrequin. — On the south shore of the Seine, at the Place de I'Odeon, the Cafe-restaurard Voltaire; and the Versailles, facing the Railroad Station Montpar- nasse. A LA Carte Restaurants. — These are much dearer, but as the portions are copiously served, you can control your expense by ordering properly. This category of eating places is very numerous, and I will give a list of the most important only. On the Avenue de I'Opera, the Cafe de Paris. — Place de la Madeleine, the restaurants Durand, Larue, and Lucas. — Boulevard des Capucines, the Cafe de la Paix, Cafe Atnericatn, and facing the latter, the Cafe Jiilien. — Boulevard des Italiens, the Cafe Anglais, Maison Doree, 3ind Paillard. — In the Passage des Princes, Noel- Peters. — Back of the Opera, Sylvain. — On the Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, Margiiery and An Gymiiase. — Place de la Bourse, Cliatnpeaiix — Boulevard Saint-Denis, Maire. — Boulevard du Temple, Bonvalet. — Rue Saint-Honorc, Voi- sin. — At the Palais R lyal, Le Grand V if our. — At the Champs-Elysees, Ledoyen ; the restaurant of the Ambas- sadeurs ; and that of the Rond-Point. — In the Bois de Boulogne, Gillet, the Pavilion d'Arjnenonville, the Cascade, Madrid. — On the south shore of the Seine, the best restau- rant, by all odds, is that of Foyot, in the Rue de Tournon, facing the Luxembourg. In the large breweries very good meals are served to order at very moderate prices. At Pousset, on the Boulevard des Italiens. — At Zimuier and at Ducastaing, on the Boulevard Montmartre. — -On the Avenue de I'Opera, at the Brewery named after that thoroughfare. — At Mollard, at the Rail- road Station Saint-Lazare. In all of them you are given a bill of fare, from which to select. But in the case of restaurants at fixed prices you should order only the number of dishes to which you are en- titled. In ordering a la carte, you should notice the price of the dishes. At both there is a special Wine List. Once seated, the waiter will hand you the bill of fare, which you will decipher, approximately at least. If you can- not speak PYench, point to him on the bill of fare the dishes you have selected. If you need the services of the waiter 3° HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE during the meal, with your knife strike lightly upon the glass. Once through with your meal, signal the waiter and tell him: '' Addition !" He will hand you a detailed check; verify its correctness at a glance, and pay the amount, adding a tip of ten to twenty cents. Parisian Caf^s Oftentimes the restaurant has tables outside, this is de- nominated in Parisian parlance terrasse. When the weather js fine, it is more agreeable to sip your coffee on the terrace; but if the restaurant is not provided with outdoor tables, you may adjourn to one of the well-known reputable cafes. The boulevards being the centre of the city, it is natural that the cafes bordering on them are those where the greatest animation is to be found. The Grand Cafe, the Cafede la Paix, American, Julien, and the Napolitain, opposite the /audeville Theatre, are some of the most perfect types of such establishments. Further on, are ihe cafes attached to breweries which have acquired quite a prominence lately, such as Pousset, Zimmer, Bucastaing, and Muller. Beyond the boulevards they are to be found almost everywhere. On the Rue Royale, Taverne Royale ; at the Railroad Station Saint-Lazare, the cafes Jacqueminot, Mollard,^ Termi7ius ; cafe Dreher on the Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle ; on the Bou- levard de Strasbourg, the cafes Frangais and Eldorado ; at the Palais-Royal, Cafi Orleans and Taverne la Rotonde ; the cafe of La Regence, facing the Avenue de I'Opera and the Theatre-Frangais. On the south shore of the river Seine, the boulevard abounds with them : Vachette and Soufflet at the corner of the Rue des Ecoles ; the tavern of the Pan- theon, at the corner of the Rue Soufflot ; Lavejitie, at the railroad station Montparnasse, and Barbotte at the station of the Northern Railway, etc. Once seated at a' table, a waiter will ask you what you desire. Tell him, and he will understand you, even if you answer in English. When ready to leave, strike the platter with a silver coin, which you give him ; from the returned change, hand him four cents, more if you are several in your party. Tobacco and Cig-ar Stores In order to complete the list of useful informations, we will state that in Paris the tobacco and cigar stores (^bureaux HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 3I detabac) are easily recognized, all of them having the sign TAB AC. At night a red light serves to distinguish them. There are three or four of those stores who enjoy the reputa- tion of selling the best cigars and of keeping the most varied stock. They are the Bureau de la Civcttc, located on the square of the Theatre-Frangais, facing the artists' entrance ; another one is at the Grand-Hotel on the right of the main entrance, on the Boulevard des Capucines, and still another one in front of the church Madeleine. Barber Shops ainl Bathing Establishments The traveller, upon arriving in a city, is generally in need of a barber. It is quite disagreeable to step into a slovenly- kept establishment or fall to the mercies of a carving artist. The same remarks apply to bathing establishments. Al- though many hotels are provided with both facilities. 1 deem it advisable to furnish the address of a few places where you will find comfort and proper attendance. Barbers.— Wherever you come in sight of a sign reading "Lavatory," you may rest assured that you will find clean- liness and proper attendance. Establishments under that name are disseminated throughout Paris. Hairdressers for Ladies.— /'^///, at No. 7 Rue de la Paix ; Gabriel, No. 229 Rue Saint-Honore ; Lenthcric, Rue des Petits-Champs; Normaiuliu, etc., etc. Baths. — The sole establishment which recalls to a certain extent the ablutionary luxuriousness of antiquity, is that of Haiiunatn, No. 18 Rue des Mathurins, the entrance reserved for ladies is on the Boulevard Haussmann. There are also the Piscine Rochechouart at No. 67 of Rue Rochechouart; the baths of Saint-Denis ; on the river Seine, the Samari- taine, which has outlived the disappearance of the antiquated frigate. On the south shore of the Seine you will find the Hammam and Monge in the Rue du Cardinal-Lemome. Cold bathing establishments can be found at every bridges on the Seine, at the Pont-Royal, Pont des Saints-Peres, and Pont-Neuf. How to ask aiHl find yonr Way This chapter being written with the object of giving the traveller all the practical and necessary counsels to enable 32 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE him to move in Paris with ease, and save all unneces- sary steps, it becomes my duty to warn him about certain precautions he should take in order not to lose his way— and how to ask for it in case he has lost it. In the first place, invariably carry two cards in your pocket-book ; one with your name and Paris address, the other with your address only. In case of an accident befalling you, it is in your pocket- book the police will look for information. If ycu lose your way, show your address card to any wayfarer or police- man {sergent de 'vill'e)—\xx Paris, everybody will give you the desired information byword, or by gesture if you do not understand French. Proceed in the same manner if you take a carriage by the way. However, albeit the rationality of all these premonitions, one must acknowledge that it would be a pitiable manner of visiting Paris if forced to ask every passer-by his way. This would entail, considering the distance which separates the points of interest, a great loss of time. Therefore, it is pre- ferable to take a cab, especially in a city like Paris, where the cab rates are quite reasonable compared with those pre- vailing in the United States. The Parisians employ them constantly, but the well-to-do find it more agreeable to have a well appointed turn-out at their disposal when needed. The wealthy class generally favors the livery stables of Brion, No. i6 Boulevard des Capucines, with a branch in the aristocratic quarter of the Champs-Eiysees, at No. 83 Boetie Street. You can safely deal with this firm, as it enjoys a deserved high reputation for the great variety and perfect correctness of its equipages. If your means do not permit of hiring a first-class equipage, you may secure a comfortable carriage at a moderate cost from the Compagnie Generale des Petites Voitures, or from the Compagnie Urbaine, who will furnish you with a com- fortable carriage at the rate of 25 to 30 frs. per day. However, to the traveller who do not care to bind himself hiring a carriage by the month or day, Paris offers a marvel- lously organized system of public hacks, cabs or coupes— all three more or less accurately covered by ihe French generic name of fiacre. The best equipped carriages of this cate- gory are those of the Compagnie des Petites Voitures and of the Compagnie Urbaine. The rates for these cabs are uniform throughout the city, whichever the company ; the rates are printed on a slip, bearing the carriage number, which should be handed to you HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 33 I)y the driver. We give below a copy of the French original with a translation in English ; Cie Parisienne de Voilures rUrbaine Societe anonyme au capital de 10,806,000 francs Rue Taitbout, 59 — Paris 2253 Conserver ce numero en cas de reclamations, qui, s'il y a lieu, devront etre adressces a M. le Prefet de Police. V oiture de Place a. 2 places Tarif maximum dans Pinterieur de Paris De 6 heures du matin en ete De 7 heures du matin a mlnuit 30m. en hiver La course, f.1.50 L'heure, fr.2.00 De minuit 30m. A 6 h. du matin en ete A 7 h. du matin en tiiver La course, f.2.25 L'heure, f.2.50 Tarif maximum au-dela des Fortifications (Bois de Boulogne, liois de Vincennes, Arcueil, Aubervil- liers, Bagneux, Bagnolet, Bou- logne, Charenlon, Clichy, Gen- tilly, Issy, Ivry, Les Lilas, Les pres St. Gervais, Levallois- Perret, Malakoff, Montreuil, Montiouge, Neuilly, Pantin, Romainville, St. I)enis, St. Mande, St. Maurice, St. Ouen, Varennes,Villeju if, Vincennes.) (Trailer de gre a gre pour les au- tres destinations.) De 6 h. du matin a minuit en ete (i^'" avril au 30 sept.) De 6 h. du matin a lO h. du soir en hiver (i*^'" oct. au 31 mars). Lorsque le voya- geur laifsera la voiture en de- hors des Forti- fications Indemnite de retour, f. i. Lorsque le voya- geur rentrera dans Paris . avec la voi- ture L'heure, f, 2.50 Voiture prise hors des Fortifications pour Paris, l'heure, 2 frs, Bagages : i colis, 25 c. ; 2 colis, 50 c. ; 3 colis et plus, 75 c. Parisian Cab Company « L'Urbaine » Incorporated with a Capital of 10,806,000 francs No. 59 Rue Taitbout, Paris 2253 Keep this number in case of complaints, which should be made to the Superintendent of Police {M. le Fr^fet de Police). Conveyance for 2 persons Maximum Rates in the Interior of Paris From 6 A. M. in summer. From 7 A. M. in winter, Until 12.30 A. M. From 12.30 A. M. Until 6 A. M. in summer. Until 7 A. M. in winter, One ride, 1I4 frs. The hour, 2 "■ One ride, 25i frs. The hour,2j2 " Maximum Ri.'es Beyond the Fortifications (Bois de Boi. logne, Bois de Vincennes, Arcueil, Aubervil- liers, Bagneux, Bagnolet, Bou- logne, Charenton, Clichy, Gen- tilly, Issy, Ivry, Les Lilas, Les pres St. Gervais, Levallois- Perret, Malakoff, Montreuil, Montrouge, Neuilly, Pantin, Romainville, St. Denis, St. Mande, St. Maurice, St. Ouen, \'arennes,Villejuif, Vincennes.) (Fix the rates in advance for all other points.) From 6 A.M. until midnight in Summer(April i to Sept. 30). From 6 A. M. to 10 p. M. in Winter (Oct. i to March 31). If the traveller returns to Paris with the carriage, Per hour, 2^ frs. If the cab is dis- missed outside the Fortifica- tions, Return fare, i fr. Carriages hired outside the Fortifi- cations for Paris, per hour, 2 frs. I>3ggfge : I'-pce., X f''- i 2 pees., Yz fr. ; 3 pees, or more, |^ fr. 34 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Extraits des RSglements 1 . Les cochers devront remettre sponta- nement un bulletin indicatif du numero et du tarif de leur voiture a. la personne qui vlent d'y monter. lis devront com- muniquer au voyageur, sur sa deniande, lehvret de la voiture. (Art. 47 de I'Or- donnance de Police du 31 aout 1807.) 2. Le voyageur qui, en montant en voi- ture, n'aura pas fait connaitre au cocher son intention d'etre conduit a I'heure, sera presume avoir pris la voiture a la course. Art. 47.) 3. Les cochers peuvent demander des jrrhes lorsqu'ils attendent i I'entree des etablissements oil il est notoire qu'ilexiste plusieurs issues. (Art. 58.) 4. Les cochers devront marcher auxprix et conditions du tarif : i. aux stations : 2. sur la voie publique, lorsqu'ils auront re- pondu al'appel du voyageur. (Art. 39.) 5. Les cochers ne sont pas tenus d'ad- mettre plus de voyageurs qu'il n'y a de places dans I'interieur de la voiture. Dans les voitures a strapontin, celui-ci compte pouruneou deux places, suivant ses di- mensions. Les cochers ne sont pas obliges d'accepter dans leur voiture des voyageurs en etat d'ivresse, ceux dont la tenue ou les bagages seralent susceptibles de salir ou de deteriorer la voiture. lis peuvent s'opposer a ce que les animaux montent avec les voyageurs dans la vniture ; mais, s'ils les ont acceptes, ils devront mar- cher. (Art. 60.) 6. Toute i^ipolitesse, tout acte de gros- sierete ou de brutalite de la part des co- chers seront severement reprimes. (Art. 4S-) , . . 7. Les cochers de voitures depourvues de galerie ne sont pas tenus de prendre des bagages ; charges avec leur consente- ment, ils n' auront plus le droit de se re- fuser 4 les transporter. (Art. 61.) NoTA. — Ne sont pas regardes comme colis les valises et objets pouvant etre portes facilement k. la main ou places dans la voiture sans la deteriorer. 8. Lorsque le temps employe pour le deplacement du cocher et I'attente du voyageur au lieu du chargement excede 15 minutes, le tarif a I'heure est applique a partir du moment oi la voiture a ete louee. 9. Le cocher qui se rend au lieu de chargement et n'est pas occupe a droit k la moitie d'une course si le temps employe pour le deplacement et I'attente ne de- passe pas un quart d'heure : le prix en- tier d'une course, si le temps excede 15 minutes. 10. Lorsqu'un cocher est requis de s'ar- reter en route ou de changer I'itineraire le plus direct, I'heure est due. Toutefois, le cocher, quoique pris a la course, est tenu de laisser monter ou descendre un voyageur en route. 11. Apres 10 heures du solr en hiver et minuit en ete, les cochers ne sont pas tenus de franchir les fortifications. Reclamer, s'il y a lieu, le livret de la voiture contenant les reglements et les tarifs en vigueur. (Art. 28,) Extracts from the Eules 1. The drivers must give spontaneously to the person entering their carriage a slip indicating the number of their con- veyance and the schedule of prices. They must, if requested by their fare, show the certificate cf their conveyance. (Art. 47 of Police Ordinance, 31st August, 1897.) 2. The traveller who, entering a public conveyance, has not informed the driver of his intention of being driven by the hour, is supposed to have hired it for a ride. (Art. 47.) 3. The drivers have the privilege to exact pay in advance when left awaiting in front of establishments known to have several exits. (Art. 58.) 4. Drivers are obligated to move in ac- cordance with the price and conditions of the tariff : 1st, to the stations ; 2d, on the public highway, after having answered the call of the passenger. (Art. 39.) 5. Drivers are not obliged to accom- modate more passengers than there are places in their conveyance. In carriages with a folding seat (strapontiii), the lat- ter is reckoned as one or two seats, ac- cording to its size. Drivers are not obliged to admit in their vehicle intoxicated peo- ple, nor those in a condition, or whose baggage would be likely, to soil or dete- riorate their conveyance. They can ob- ject to animals entering their carriage with their fare; but if at first they have agreed to it they must go on. (Art. 60 ) 6. Impoliteness, coarseness or brutality on the part of the drivers will be severely repressed. (Art. 45.) 7. Drivers of conveyances without rail- ing are not obliged to take baggage ; but having once accepted the baggage they have lost the right to refuse its transpor- tation. (Art. 61.) NoTA. — Valises or articles which can be easily carried by hand or placed in the carriage without damaging it, are not con- sidered as baggage. 8. If the lapse of time consumed be- tween the ordering of the carriage and the beginning of the drive proper exceeds 15 minutes, the hour rates are applicable and reckoned from the time the carriage has been hired. g. The driver who answers a call and is not hired has the right to claim the price of half a ride if the time thus con- sumed does not exceed 15 minutes, if it exceeds that lapse of time he is entitled to the price of a full ride. 10. If the driver is requested to make a stoppage, or to follow an itinerary which is not the most direct, he is entitled to a full hour. Notwithstanding of his being hired for a ride, the driver is bound to allow his fare to get in or off his carriage while en route. 11. After 10 P. M. in winter, and 12 at night in summer, drivers are not obliged to drive beyond the fortifications. Ask, if necessary, for the certificate of the ccnveyance containing rules and schedule of fares in force. (Art. 28.) HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 35 Communications by Telegraph, Cable, Telephone, Post, etc. It is already a great advantage to be able to find your way in Piuis, but one should also be able to profit of the pneu- matic, telegraphic, telephonic and postal means of commu- nications which exist between Paris and its immediate neigh- borhood, as well as with other cities in France, in order that if the necessity of sending a message or a letter should arise, he can do so with practical celerity. Pneumatic Messages. — Communications within Paris proper can also be had through pneumatic messages, sent on blanks sold at the Post-Ot^ce stations, either sealed or unsealed, at 50 and 30 centimes (10 and 6 cents) respectively. On an average it takes three hours for such a message to reach its destination. You write in the blank all you want, and by paying 60 cen- times additionally for the first and i franc for the second category you secure the privilege of a prepaid answer. There are also what is called "pneumatic envelopes" sold for 50 centimes, in which you can enclose sheets of paper up to the weight of 7 grammes (nearly 15^^ grains). If you should go beyond that weight and not over 15 grammes it will require a prepayment of 50 centimes in postage stamps, and of I franc between 15 and 30 grammes. Those en- velopes must retain their flexibility, and consequently should not contain any hard bodied matter nor valuables. You can also send through the same mode sealed card-letters of 15 centimes by adding postage stamps to the amount of 35 centimes, or open card-letters with the folding part detached by adding 15 centimes in postage stamps. Moreover, all these pneumatic communications can be " Answer Prepaid " —provided the answer is in the form of a receipt for a bill, or a deposit, or an ordinary acknowledgment — by adding 10 centimes in postage stamps. Bicycle Messengers.— In the emergency of an imme- diate answer being required to your communication, employ a Bicycle Messenger ( Veloce-Chassetir). There is now in Paris a perfect organization of bicyclists for that purpose. 36 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE They are stationed at almost every cafe, and for 10 to 20 cents, according to the length of the journey, they will deliver a message and bring back the answer. Telegrams. — If it is a telegram you wish to send, you can always dispatch it from an hotel, a cafe or a restaurant by one of the boys in the place, to whom you give a few cents for his trouble. If, for special reasons, you prefer doing it yourself, enquire for the nearest telegraph office — their number is so great in Paris, you will not have far to walk. You should also bear in mind that in France, Post and Telegraph offices, are one and the same, they both belong to, and are controlled by, the Government. Rates to and from France and Foreig7i Cofttmental Countries. — Between the offices in France, Algeria and Tunis, the rates are i cent per word with a minimum of 10 cents. 10 cents additional will pay for the answer. Dispatches for Belgium and Switzerland cost I2j^ cen- times (2i cents) per word ; 1 5 centimes (3 cents) to Ger- many ; 16 centimes to Netherlands ; 20 centimes to Austria- Hungary, Spain, Great-Britain, Italy and Portugal; 2414 centimes to Danemark ; 28 centimes to Sweden; 28 j^ cen- times to Bosnia, Roumania and Serbia; 3i>^ centimes to Bulgaria ; 36 centimes to Norway ; 40 centimes to European Russia ; 53 centimes to European Turkey ; 531-^ centimes to continental Greece. Rates to Transoceanic Countries. — The word-rate for New York is i franc 25 centimes (25 cents) ; it varies from 3 francs 35 centimes (67 cents) per word for the Antilles; from 4 francs 70 centimes to about 6 francs for Brazil. It is 7 francs 70 centimes ($1.54) for Chili, Peru and Japon. Cablegrams. — Should you desire to cable to the United States, it is done by the intermediary of the Post-Office De- partment. Cablegrams from France to the United States, Canada and Mexico should not bear the indication of any route. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 37 Rates to and from France, tJie United States, Mexico, Canada, etc. Destination I Price per word | Destination UNITED STATES French I U. S. money (money UNITED STATES Alabama Arizona Arkansas California Carolina (South).. Carolina (North). Colorado Connecticut. ... Dakota (N. & S.) Delaware District of Co- lumbia Florida — Key West Pensacola. . . . Other stations. Georgia Idaho Illinois Indiana Indian Territory. Iowa Kansas Kentucky Louisiana — New Orleans. . Other stations.. Maine Maryland Massachusetts . . . Michigan Minnesota — Du- luth, Minneap- olis, St. Paul, Winona Other stations. Mississippi Missouri — St. Louis Other stations. Montana Nebraska Nevada New Hampshire. New Jersey — Hoboken, Jer- sey City Other stations. New Mexico frs. 55 90 80 90 55 55 So 25 80 45 1.80 1-55 1-55 1.80 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.25 1-25 1-45 I. So 31 38 36 38 31 31 36 25 36 29 45 29 42 31 36 31 38 31 31 36 36 36 31 31 36 25 29 25 31 31 36 31 31 36 36 36 38 2^ 25 29 38 Price per word FrendTTursT' money I money frs. cents New York — New York City and Brooklyn 1.25 Other stations. 1.45 Ohio 155 Oklahoma, Ter. . i.So Oregon 1.90 Pennsylvania .... 1. 45 Rhode Island.. . . 1.25 Tennessee 1.55 Texas 1.80 Utah. , 1.90 Vermont 1. 25 Virginia 1. 55 Washington 1.90 West Virginia . . . 1. 55 Wisconsin 1.55 Wyoming 1.80 MEXICO Mexico City, Tampico, Vera- cruz City 3.15 Altar Banamichi, Chihuahua City, Cuaymas, Her- mosillo, Mata- moros, Tamau- lipas, Monterey, Sabinas, Salti- llo, Sauz 1.90 38 Other stations... 3.25 65 DOMINION OF CANADA Manitoba 1.90 New Brunswick.. 1.25 Northwest Terri- tory of Canada. 1.90 Nova Scotia 1.25 Ontario 1. 25 Prince Edward Island Quebec (Prov. of) Vancouver Island, Br. Columbia. . 63 125 1.25 38 25 38 25 25 25 25 1.90 38 Cape Breton, N.S. I.25 Newfoundland... 1.25 St. Pierre Mique- lon 1.25 25 25 25 38 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Telephones. — A distinction should be made, under this heading, as to telephoning within Paris proper or outside of Paris. In Paris, you can telephone from any cafe or any Post- Office station. Moreover, same as New York, all large firms have the telephone. Telephoning from a cafe does not cost you anything. At the Post-Oflfice station, for 25 centimes (5 cents) you receive, at the window bearing the word " Telcgraphe," a ticke. which you present to the attendant standing at the telephone-box inside the station, giving at the same time, in writing, the name and address of the party to whom you wish to telephone. If the party addressed has no telephone, you can, upon the additional payment of 50 cen- times (10 cents) procure a supplementary ticket, which entitles you to dictate by telephone your communication, which is immediately delivered from the nearest station. Oictside of Paris. — Long distance telephoning can be done only at the Post-Oftice sub-stations or at the special stations. First, purchase a ticket at the window " Teligraphe," for the locality you wish to reach, the price for which is indicated in the table below. The time begins to count only from the moment you enter in communication. If, for any cause, you cannot reach the party called, you are at liberty to either keep your ticket for another time, or be reimbursed. Rates a}id Length of Co7nmu7iications. — Between points in France the rates are 25 centimes for 3 minutes up to 25 kilometres; 50 centimes for 5 minutes up to 100 kilometres or fraction thereof. Between Paris and London, night or day, 10 francs for 3 minutes. Between Paris and Brussels or Antwerp, 3 frs. in day-time for 5 minutes, and but 3 minutes allowed during the sittrng of the stock-exchange. Monthly rates, for daily communications of 10 minutes, 90 francs. After 9 P. M., I franc 80 centimes. Between France and Switzerland, the unity of time is 3 minutes. The rates are made up from those charged in the two countries and divided in half. In France 50 centimes per 100 kilometres, in Switzerland 25 centimes per 10 kilo- metres and 50 centimes for a greater distance up to 100 kilo- metres, and 75 centimes for a distance beyond 100 kilometres. The Poste-Office and the Departure of Mails. — Postage stamps can be bought at the stations or from the tobacco dealers. The regulation weight of a letter is fixed at 15 grammes, requiring for Paris, France and HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 39 Algeria, a stamp of 15 centimes (3 cents); for each addi- tional 15 grammes, or fraction thereof, 15 centimes (3 cents). For foreign countries, the postage is 25 centimes (5 cents) per 1 5 grammes or fraction thereof. The Post-Ofifice Department issue lo-centime postal cards good for all the countries belonging to the Postal Union ; card-letters of 15 centimes for France, and of 25 centimes for foreign countries. Also, stamped envelopes, of the de- nominations of 15 and 5 centimes, and wrappers of i and 2 centimes. Receiving-letter boxes are to be found in all Post-Office stations, and you should carefully study their respective captions : PARIS DEPARTMENTS ETRANGER (Paris) (Domestic) (Foreign) In addition, almost every tobacco dealer has a receiving- letter box at the door of his store. In order to leave on the day of posting, letters should be dro])ped at the main station no later than 5 P. ]\i. The last round {levee) for letters addressed to the United States by the French steamer is made at 5 P. M. on Friday ; by way of England, at 5 P. ]M. on Tuesday. At the General Post-Office, in the Rue du Louvre, the mail closes at 6 P. M. However, several cafes make it their business to mail American letters as late at 6.45 p. M. Letters " To Be Called For." — In the event that you have letters addressed to you in Paris under the caption : " To be called for " {Poste restanfe), you must enquire for them at the General Post-Ofifice, Rue du Louvre, and be personally identifit^d, cr else produce at least two envelopes bearing your subscription. CHAPTER IV INITIAL PROMENADES IN PARIS First Promenade on Foot Presuming that you have reached Paris during the evening or late in the night, it is naturally out of the question to think of harnessing yourself to begin visiting Paris and the Exposition methodically. The fatigue inherent to travel- ling will likely keep you late in bed, and on rising you will have to devote some little time undoing your baggage and making a bit of toilet — all of which will leave you hardly over one or two hours before the regular breakfast bell which is rung at about ii A. M. Nevertheless, you should have a first glimpse of Paris and of the marvels in store and made to dazzle the foreign visitor. Considering that the majority of the hotels are located in the neighborhood of the theatre of the Grand Opera, the hotel interpreter will readily indicate to you the way to the Rue de la Paix. If, on account of the labyrinthine aspect of the streets and the lack of orientation usual with a visitor newly landed in a strange city, you experience some difficulty in finding your way, you should not, on the first day, be too parsimonious. Therefore, take a cab, and ask the interpreter to order the Jehu to drive you to the Rue de la Paix, at the corner of the Avenue de I'Opera, where you will give him 1^ francs and dismiss him. Siarlit-seeing' on the Rue de la Paix . Now, allow me to take you along this marvellous Rue de la Paix, throughout which, in order to dazzle and tempt the shopper and the visitor alike, the windows of the jewellers rival in richness and artistic grace — here you are made to contemplate the chastened creations elaborated by the genius of the French artisan. There, also, you will find show-windows exhibiting the latest dress conceptions of the world-famed coiituriere (dressmaker), and further on, those astounding combinations which enter into the voluminous fashionable hat, as well as the stylish and dainty bonnet con- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 41 cocted by the niodiste. so light of texture and so diminutive in size, they could hardly hold one's breath. There is no risk losing one's way in this first promenade on foot in Paris. You may go straight ahead, and although limited to four hundred yards, the panorama embraces the vision of some of the most beautiful dressed windows in Paris. Further on an historical monument, with a green folliaged background, challenges your admiration, which is heightened on reaching a balconied street which leads you insensibly to a garden of such sudden marvellousness that you are made to feel as if transported to an enchanted oasis afar from the brutal activity of a great city. But while strolling in the Rue de la Paix, you should not fail to look critically at the shop windows, all of which are worthy of notice, especially those situated on the left side of the street, and whose names are world-famed. Here are an optician and a fashionable cutler; then the firm Coulon, with a tempting show of jewelry ; others with cut diamonds whose brilliancy is magnetic; a sumptuous antiquary shop; and lastly, at the angle of the Place Vendome, the artistic show windows of Boncheron, remarkable for the gems of the jeweler's art they contain. On the right: This is apparently the feminine side of the street, inasmuch as dressmakers are to be found almost at every door. Moreover, the mysterious and innumerable ar- ticles coming under the name of lingerie are here sump- VENDOME COLUMN, RUE DE CASTIGLIONE 42 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE tuously exhibited at Doitcet, at Chapron, and others. The modistes and artificial flower dealers, with marvellous inimi- table imitations, are side by side with perfumery shops, such as Guerlain, the king of the poudre de riz parfumee. Place Vendome The Column Vendome was erected upon the square of the same name, by Napoleon I, in commemoration of the Grand Army (1805). It is- built after the style of the Trajane column in Rome. The bronze ornaments decorating- it were cast from the canons taken from the Austrians and Russians, and the plaques ornamenting its pedestal represent the most salient deeds of the campaign of 1805, while its summit is crowned by a statue of Napoleon I. Around the column and bordering on the square, you will first notice, at the right, the edifice of the Ministry of Jus- tice and the Chancery of France; a little further, that of the Military Governor of Paris, from which point you distinguish the gilded railing of the Garden of the Tuileries {Jai^din des Tuileries), which is reached after passing under the beautiful arcades of the Rue de Castiglione, where you should halt for a few moments before the show-windows of Barberis on the left ; peeping at a fan dealer, a jeweler, and an heraldry engraver on the right ; thence, on the left again, at the stores oi Jane and Forest-Bruxer, in order to admire their creations in dresses and the elegance of their lingerie. The Garden of the Tuileries Having crossed the street which traverses perpendicularly the extremity of the Rue de Castiglione and the Rue de Rivoli, • and having passed through the gates of the Tuileries Garden, you find yourself upon the terrace called Terr asse des Feuil- lants. Here, you will notice two groups in bronze— one at the right, the other at the left— representing animals, the work of the sculptor Cain. One of the great attractions of this garden, outside of the enticing beauty of its shade trees and well kept lawns and artistic flower beds, is the number of beautiful statues one meets at every step, all works of art from the most famous masters. The everchanging pano- rama of this enchanted historical garden has made it one of the most frequented spots of the great city. From the Terrace des Feuillants, on the left, and outside of the garden, you see the ruins of the former Tuileries HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 43 Palace, and the recently erected Pavilion de Flore. On the right, the eye discovers the angle of the Place de la Concorde at its junction with the Rue Royale, and its animated throng of people. Facing is the Solferino Bridge, with the Boulevard St. Germain as a background, topped at the right by the gilded clock of the Ministry of War. Descending the steps which lead from the terrace into the garden proper, we will take to the right and admire the pretty children who have already invaded this beautiful resort in the company of their nurse, and make it resound with their joyous voices and frolicsome gambols— for the Tuileries Garden, as it were, is held in fee simple by the children of Paris. From our position in the Macademized Alley {Alice macadamzsee), which is traversed by the Central Alley, the view encompasses at the right a marvellous panorama. Out- side the gilded railing which encloses the Garden the eye first rests upon the Place de la Concorde, with its playing fountains from which descend silvery showers ; further on, appear the Avenue des Champs-Elysees and the Cycle {rond-poini), enlivened by rich equipages bound for the races and -mounted cavaliers returning from their prome- nade in the Bois; and, still further, in the dim distance, your admiration knows no bounds at the revelation of the monu- mental grandeur of the Arc-de-Triomphe, through whose portals genius alone has the right of way after death only. But it is now time to proceed and seek together the sights which may interest you^ within the precincts of the Garden proper. In art matters it is about the same as in love affairs — the personal bias is omnipotent. Therefore, I will adhere strictly to my chosen role of cicerone, and will merely indicate what is to be seen. The enclosed plan will be a guide to you, by following the itinerary marked by the guiding arrows on the traced path, you will see everything worth seeing and form a judgment in accordance with your personal likes or dislikes. From the point where we stopped in order to admire the view depicted above, let us proceed to the right by the prin- cipal alley, it will lead you to the octogonal basin, where children amuse themselves at miniature yacht sailing. Keep on to the right, and you will come to the last vestige of the once royal and then imperial palace of the Tuileries, destroyed by fire in 1871. Ascends the steps of the ter- race in front of you. and promenade at your ease upon the ball grounds (Jeu de Patnne), but stop in front of the antique statues which ornament the terrace on the ARC DE TRIOMPHE CHAMPS ELYSEES PLACE DE LA CONCORDE -II I U I ij ^^, ' •^'^ y rue: dels tui leries PAVILION ot PAVILLON I K MARSAN Lisa? OF THE GROUPS, STATUES AND POINTS OF INTEREST IN THE With the Captions or Legends corresponding to th ^ figures on the Plan A. The Ruins of the Tuileries. B. Ball ground. C. Orangery. D. Octagonal Basin. E. Basin. 3 a 5- 6. 8. 9- 10. II. 12. 13 14. 16. 17- iS. 19. . 20. 21. 22. 23- 24. 25- 26 27- Hercules throwing the 28. Hydra. 29. The four seasons. 30. nd4. Statues (antique style). 31. The Tiber. 32. The rivers Rhone and 33. Saone. 34- The rivers Rhine and Moselle. 35- The Nile, 36. Statues (antique style). 37- Lion and Serpent. 3^- Boar. 39- Aristate 4'J- Hippomenes. Atalanta. 41- Diana. 42- Nymph and Dog. 43- The Comedy. 44- The Grinder. 45- Phydias. 4^- Alexander. 47' Cincinnatus. 48- Draped Woman. 49- Death of Laius. 5°- The Lion, and Peacock. 5i- Abduction of Dejanira. 52. Pericles. 53- Abduction of Cybelus 54- Flora. Zephyris. At the Oui, year nin Lucretia and Collatin. A Corybant. A Priestess of Bacchus. Ennius carrying away An- chise. Omphalion. Hunter Carrying a Hind. Nymph writh Quiver. Venus with the Dove. The abduction of Orythi Cassandra imploring nervus. Alexander-the-Great. Lion and Crocodile. The Comedy. Aurora. Ugolin. Silence. Prometheus. The Soldier. Spartacus. Diana. Agrippina. Apollo. Daphnas. Ceres. 4^ HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE left. Then retrace your steps to the ruins of the Tuile- ries, go down the staircase, and at your left you will per- ceive Bosco's bronze group of Hercules downing the Hydra; then, go around the basin, and pass in turn the symbolic representations in statuary of some of the notable rivers of the world, such as Le Tibrc, by Van Cleve ; Le RhSne and La Sdone, by Coustou ; on the opposite side of the basin you will admire Le Rhin and La Moselle, by Van Cleve, and Le Nil, by Bourdic. Now ascend to the terrace Du Bord de la Seine (Ter- race on the border of the Seine), here you will see the conservatory called l'0ra7igerie, where are kept during the winter the orange-trees which ornament in summe'? the alley bordering the Terrasse des Feuillants, and also four antique statues. Then retrace your steps and proceed straight ahead upon the terrace, passing Le Lio7i au Ser- peJit, by Barye, this will bring you back to the basin. Continue, leaving on your left Les Termes, a statue sym- bolizing the four seasons, next a Sanglier (Boar), then cross the alley by which you first came in and keep o' . THE GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES through the Garden until you come to a square where are grouped the statues of Hippo7nhie and Atalante, by Cous- tou. Here, after glancing at the group of Herctde et le Bi^n (Hercules and the Buffalo), come to a stand-stiU in 48 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE THK lUILKRlES order'to enable you to cast your eyes around the basin and admire the beautiful group of statues indicated on the plan. It is at this point, on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, between four and six, that a military band discourses music. Do not cross the Rue des Tuileries, but return, following the path traced upon the plan until you have reached the other square in which is the group of Apollon and Daphne, by Theodon ; pass in front of Ceres and take the middle alley until you have reached the transversal alley at the point you left it, then keep on the latter, to your left, until you come 'o the gate facing the Solferino Bridge. Ascend the terrace v\'hich borders upon the quays, and from this point of van- tage the view embraces both banks of the Seine for a long distance. When facing the quays, you will see, on the right and across the river, the House of Deputies, and 'arther on, at the opposite end of the last bridge, appears lie dome of the Hotel des Invalides, while in the dim dis- tance the eye catches the silhouette of the Eiffel Tower. Resume the promenade : at the extremity of the terrace, which runs along the Rue de Rivoli, stands the Pavilion de Flore, the present quarters of the Ministry of the Colonies. On your left, between that structure and the Pavilion de Marsan, its mate, there are more flower beds with twelve more statues well v;orth seeing. On the side opposite the Rue de Rivoli, which you have just crossed, this extension of the garden is intercepted by the Place of the Carrousel, HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 49 upon which is erected on a reduced scale an Arc of Triomphe which challenges your admiration. But it must be near breakfast time, and if you feel like eturning to your hotel and are not sure of finding your way alone, signal a passing cab, and give the driver, verbally or in writing, the name and address of your hotel. If you prefer to breakfast at a restaurant, you can do so in the neighborhood. Carriage Ride After breakfast, in order to widen your first general acquaintance with the physiognomy of Paris — having already acquired a partial knowledge of the stores, works of art, of the architecture of some of its public edifices and monu- ments — you should be initiated to the life of the Paris Ele- gant, a world of itself, which is on the eve of giving signs of life in brilliant equipages at the afternoon promenade be- tween 3.30 and 6 o'clock. Hand your coachman the counterpart of the following itinerary, printed in French on a perforated leaf at the front of this book. Avenue Henri Martin. — Porte de la Muette. — Avenue de St. Cloud until you reach the Belt Road. — Around the lower lake, on the left. — Pre Catalan. (Stoppage.) Road of the Great Cascade. — Avenue de la Reine Marguerite, to the right. — Stoppage at the Pavilion d'Arnie- nonville. — On the right, by the road facing the Pavilion. — The Fortifications road. — Porte Dauphine. — Avenue du Bois. This itinerary begins with the Avenue Henri Martin, on both sides of which are medium-sized residences with flower beds fronting. A bridle-path runs through the centre of the avenue. When you have reached as high as No. 130, you will notice on your right a new building of great depth ; its principal entrance is on the Rue de la Pompe, which inter- sects the avenue a little further on, the edifice in question is the Janson de Sailly Lyceum {Lycie Janson de Sailly), one of the most beautiful and luxurious edifices of its kind in France. Beyond the Rue de la Pompe, but on your left, you will come upon another large edifice which may evoke your curiosity. It is the Mayoralty of the XVI^ Arrondissement (i6th Precinct). A few minutes later, the eye begins to distinguish an extensive mall with rows of trees extendmg beyond the HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 51 vision : you have reached the famous Bois de Boulogne. Here you follow a superb roadway with plenty of shading, it is the Avenue de St. Cloud, which leads to two lakes, the large and small lakes, between which you pursue your drive. This is one of the most marvellous points of the Bois. Lakes and islands, the latter, shaded abodes of rest for boating parties, are alike entirely and solely due to the creative genius of Mr. Aphand, whose admirable skill as a landscape gardener has evoked from almost nothingness the beautiful panaroma which surrounds you. The drive around the lake will lead you to the Allee de la Grande Cascade, which you will soon leave to turn into the Avenue de la Reine Marguerite. Here I advise you to step aground for a few moments in order to contemplate the grandeur of this avenue. Resuming your drive on the right, you will reach the Allee de Longchamps — a portion of which is also known as the Allee des Acacias — you then have reached the ultra-select spot where alike the feminine high- world and semi-world — fashionable and professional beau- ties, actresses of genius and wonderful talents and those merely gifted with histrionic physical charms, vie one with the other in the display of the most exquisite Parisian ele- gance on the one side, and crushing extravagance on the other. The parody, To see and to be seen, paraphrases the situation justly. Pursuing to the Pavilion d'Armenonville, where you make another stoppage, you are brought to the term of your journey. Returning, you drive through the lane which borders on the Fortifications, to the Porte Dauphine, and, following the line of thousands of carriages which precede yours, you drive through the Avenue du Bois — one of the most elegant and animated parts of Paris — until you reach the cycle at the Arc-de-Triomphe. The chapter treating of " Amusements and Pleasures " will tell you how to spend the evening. However, I may be permitted the advice — which will relieve you of the trouble of dressing afresh — of dining at the Cafe de Paris, in the Avenue de I'Opera, and from there to spend your evening at the Theatre-Frangais. THE COLUMN OF JULY ON THE PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. CHAPTER V VIEW OF PARIS IN THREE PROMENADES A few words of Explanatiom I do not propose, in this chapter, to show the tourist Paris in its entirety, nor to have him visit all the public monu- ments. My aim is to furnish the visitor a resumen in three distinct promenades of the different aspects of the several quarters or boroughs into which Paris is divided. He will be given a glimpse of the major part of the monuments worth seeing, without, however, visiting them. A special chapter (Chapter VI) is devoted to the description of each and every monument, with a view of enabling the tourist to visit at leisure those which may interest him more particu- larly. Having come to Paris more especially to see the Exposition, the object of this chapter is to give to the tourist a general idea of Paris on broad lines, without intruding too much on his time, which, in virtue of a probably fore- ordained plan, he desires to consecrate principally to the Exposition. With this object in view, I have laid the itinerary of these promenades, each of about three or four hours' duration. Detach from the perforated leaf tipped in the front of this book the French version of the following itinerary, and hand the same to the coachman when ready to leave. FIRST CARRIAGE PROMENADE From the Bastille to the Church of the Made- leine, through the boulevards. — Rue Royale and Place de la Concorde. — Avenue des Champs- Elysees. — Avenue du Bois. — Returning by Friedland Avenue. — Rue Auber. — Place de rOpera. Before undertaking this promenade, I would advise you to breakfast, at about 1 1 a.m. on the Place de la Bastille, at the restaurant Gruber. Having finished your breakfast, you begin your drive from the Bastille, as indicated. But here, permit me to rememorate 54 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE the historical events relating to the square surrounding you. Before the French Revolution, on the Place de la Bastille stood the famous prison which gave the name to the square, and which was levelled on the 14th of July, 1789. It was here where prisoners of State and men famous in history were confined, some of them for periods of more than twenty years. To-day, nothing is left of the dungeon but the few mementoes distributed among the museums. In the centre of the square rises a column of 47 metres (about 1 57 feet) known as " La Colonne de Juillet." It was erected in 1840, in commemoration of the victims of the Revolution of July, 1830, whose names are inscribed upon the shaft itself, which is crowned by a statue symbolizing The Genius of Liberty. An inner staircase leads to the top of the column. The railroad station you see on the northern corner of the square is that of Vincennes ; this railroad goes to the race- course and the locality of that name. Still on the north side of the square, but towards the centre, you will see a busy thoroughfare full of animation, it is the Rue of the Faubourg Saint-Antoine (St. Antoine Suburb Street). This quarter is exclusively devoted to business, and the furniture manufac- turers of Paris monopolize almost the entire street. Among the most important are : The successor of Krieger, who, in 1889, received the Grand Prix de Paris for household furniture, and the estab- lishment of Damon at No. 74. A stroll through the shops and salesrooms cannot be but useful and interesting. All the streets in the neighborhood of St. Antoine Suburb — Rue Castex and Rue Charenton— are tenanted by dealers and manufacturers of household furniture of every description, from the most sumptuous to the very ordinary. In the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, there are also Delaunay and Maillefer ; Derouge, in Rue Charenton, and Flandrin, in Rue Castex. On the BouleTards Your carriage now takes its place in the long procession of vehicles of all descriptions which paces along the boule- vards for a distance of over four kilometres, and which is kept moving in perfect order and precision by the police stationed at every street corner. You will successively defile by the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, where, on the right of the square of the same name, you will see the Cirque d'Hiver, and, finally, the Boulevard du Temple, which crosses HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 55 the street of that name and where is situated the Market of the Temple, which is the abode of dealers in second-hand clothes. The whole of this quarter of Paris has a raggy aspect and moldy smell. Life, which is exuberant one hun- dred metres away, is seemingly paralyzed here, but you experience a great transition on reaching the Place de la Republique. THE STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC (Square of the Republic) On this public square is erected the statue of the Republic, which rises above the group formed by the three statues symbolizing Liberty, Equality and Fraternity surrounding its base. The twelve bas-reliefs represent the most memorable epochs in the history of the French Republic. We have now reached the Boulevard St. Martin, not to that part of it which derives characteristic animation from the beautiful and artistically dressed windows — but to the portion along which the theatres are located almost side by 56 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE side. Firstly, on the right, are the Folies-Dramatiques, then the Ambigu, further on is the Theatre of the Porte Saint- Martin, where Coquelin recently created the role of Cyrano de Bergerac, and almost contiguous to the latter is the the Renaissance Theatre, which until last year was the property of Sarah Bernhardt. We still pursue on the right side of the Boulevard until we reach the Porte Saint-Martin, which has given its name to the celebrated theatre illustrated by the famous Frederick Lemaitre. The Porte Saint-Martin was erected in honor of Louis XIV, the bas-reliefs orna- menting the structure represents scenes in the reign of that illustrious sovereign. By this time we have reached the Boulevard Saint-Denis, which is intersected by a great artery bearing on the left the name of Boulevard Sebastopol and that of Boulevard de Strasbourg on the right. Leaving behind the Boulevard de Strasbourg we come on the same side of the square to the Porte Saint-Denis — the counterpart of the Porte Saint-Martin — which was also erected in commemoration of the glorious reign of Louis XIV. And still on the same side, is the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, with its extension on the left under the name of Rue Saint-Denis, both of which are great business streets, with elegant stores from the start, among which that of Grosse, fan dealer, and the great stores of the Porte Saint-Denis. On the Rue Saint-Denis, several jewelers, among which, Alexandre, and the stationer Co Hot. The Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle follows the Boulevard Saint-Denis. Here the stores are still more numerous, and among the best are : Garnihre, dealer in incandescent lamps ; a jewelry store with the specialty of corals ; an electrician ; jewelers ; Mar- gueritate, manufacturer of musical instruments, and a lace store. Further on, the white edifice which the eye meets on the right is the Gymnase Theatre, situated at the corner of the Rue d'Hauteville, and in the distance in that street is seen St. Vincent-de-Paul, an edifice of very imposing ap- pearance. On the corner of the Rue d'Hauteville, as a kind of annex to the Gymnase Theatre, is situated the restaurant Marguery. From this point we directly enter into the Boulevard Pois- sonniere, which also counts several beautiful stores : The shoemaking establishment of La Fashion ; the jew- elry store of Le Comptoir d'Horlogerie, at No. 9; the HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 57 famous Aubusson carpets, at No. 23, and Boutron, dealer in chocolate, teas, etc. THE COMPTOIR NATIONAL D ESCOMPTE. On the right, at about half way on the Boulevard, at the extremity of a short street, you will notice a reddish con- struction with a dome, it is the seat of the Comptoir Na- tional d' Esco77ipte (National Discount Bank), where you can obtain commercial letters of credit which are payable at any of its numerous following agencies : Offices in Paris Boulevard St-Germain, 176. Boulevard St-Germain , 3. Quai de la Rapee, 2. Rue Rambuteau, II. Rue Turbigo, 16. Place de la Republique, 21. Rue de Flandre, 24. Rue du 4-Septembre, 2. Boulevard Magenta, 84. Bouled Richard-Lenoir, 92. L Avenue de Clichy, 36. M Avenue Kleber (Passy), 87. N Avenue Mac-Mahon, 35. Boulevd Montparnasse, 71. P Faubourg St-Antoine, 27. R Boulevard St-Michel, 53. S Rue Pascal, 2. ij, j Boulevd de Courcelles, 2. \ Avenue de Villiers, i. V Avenue d'Orleans, 85. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Offices in the Suburbs Levallois-Perret, Place de la Republique, 3. Enghien-les-Bains, Grande-Rue, 47. Asnieres, Rue de Paris, 8. Charenton, 50, Rue de Paris. Agencies in France Abbeville Agen Aix-en-Provence Alais Amiens Angouleme Aries Avignon *Bagnieres-de-Luchon fBagnols-sur-Ceze Beaucaire Beaune Bergerac Bezier Bordeaux *Bourboule (La) Caen Calais Cannes Carcassonne Castres Cavaillon Cette Chaghy Chalon-sur-Saone fChateaurenard Clermond-Ferrand Cognac fConde-sur-Noireau Dax Deauville-Trouville Dieppe Dijon Dunkerque Elboeuf Epinal •j-Ferte-Mace (La) Firminy Flers Gray Havre (Le) Hazebrouck Issoire Jarnac Lezignan Libourne Lille Limoges Luxeuil Lyon Manosque Mans (Le) Marseille Mazamet Mont-de-Marsan *Mont-Dore (Le) Montpellier Nancy Nantes Narbonne Nice Nimes Orange Perigueux Perpignan Reims Remiremont Rivesaltes Roande Roubaix Rouen *Royat Saint-Chamond Saint-Die Saint-Etienne SaJon Toulouse Tourcoing Trouville-Deauville Vichy Villefranche-sur Saone Villeneuve-sur-Lot fVire London Liverpool Manchester Tunis Sfax Foreign Agencies Sousse San Francisco Majunga Gabes New Orleans Tamatave Bombay Melbourne Tananarive Calcutta Sydney Tangier The Comptoir National d'Escompte de Paris is moreover th depository of the banks of the French colonies, in Algeria, Indo *Open during the season. tOpen weekly for business on market days. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 59 China, Guadaloupe, Guyana, Martinique, Reunion and Senegal, and its capital is Frs. 110,000,000. Operations of the Comptoir Commercial paper and warrants discounted. — Collections in France and abroad.— Deposits on sight.— Check accounts with interests. — Loans on collaterals and merchandise,— Drafts issued and fund's forwarded.— Stock Exchange orders.— Investments.— Circular letters of credit payable throughout the entire world.— Maritime mortgage loans. — Current account and collateral credits opened. — Safe-keeping of titles at Paris, in France and abroad. — Coupons of all kinds paid.— Guarantee collections at par.— Sub- scriptions to all public loans. — Purchase and sale of foreign coins. Location of Safe-Deposits at the Principal Office, No. 14 rue Bergere ; at the Branch Office, No. 2 Place de I'Opera and in the Principal Agencies, in France and abroad (for the safe-keeping of titles, valuables, jewelry, etc., from 5 francs per month up). Further on, at No. 30, you will find the superb bronze works of Barbedienne, which are universally celebrated. We then cross on the right the Rue du Faubourg Mont- martre, and on the left is the Rue Montmartre, excessively crowded and full of activity. Newspapers are located in this street, and it is in full activity until 4 o'clock in the morning. The Rue du Faubourg Montmartre deserves to be seen in its entirety to Rue de Chateaudun. In the latter, at No. 10 bis, the eyes are immediately attracted to the Maison Krgzna, in front of which you will find the elegant turn-outs of the wordly and fastuous feminity who have called to make their selections ahead of the foreign element. Retracing our steps, we come back to the Boulevard Montmartre, and im- mediately on your right you cannot help but admire the show-windows of the store Gladiator; on the left, an English shoe store; the art bronzes of Colin, the clock- maker ; Auer Light Company ; a very old bakery ; then, on the left, you pass the Theatre des Varietes, situated almost at the corner of the Rue Vivienne, which leads you to the Bourse (Stock Exchange). After crossing the public place— which is always crowded —at the intersection made by the boulevards and the Rue Drouot on the right (where are located beautiful stores) and the Rue Richelieu, with the statue of Moliere, on the left, begins the Boulevard des Italiens. This boulevard is con- sidered the finest of all in every respect. The character of the stores and the distinguished appearance of the stream of promenaders has made it the acknowledged ultra elegant spot of Paris. On the right, halt in front of the gunsmith's shop, the book-store Flammarion, the new and sumptuous 6o HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE quarters of the Cafe-Riche, the renowned confectioner next door, tie Bohemian glassware, the art bronzes of all kinds which are always interesting to examine, then come English and American railroad ofifices and a store of fine Dutch cordials. On the left, give a glance to the entrance of the Passage des Princes, and the Express Bar. The Theatre of the Opera Comique is one door from the boulevard on a side street. The theatre was inaugurated only a year ago ; its main entrance is on Boieldieu square. THE FOUNTAIN MOLIERE which is reached through Rue Favart. Further on, we find on the right of the boulevard the fashionable restaurants. On the left is a large white edifice wliose doors are always crowded with busy people going in and out, it is tenanted by the Credit Lyonais. The Theatre des Nouveau- tds is right opposite. You will also notice a few stores facing on the Boulevard, at the corner of Helder Street, and thence following a gentle declivity you will reach the corner of Rue Louis-le-Grand, where is situated the ancient Pavilion de Hanovre. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 6i We have now reached the Chaussee d'Antin. marking the end of the Boulevard des Italiens, and at the corner of which is situated the restaurant Patllard, facing the Theatre du Vaudeville, which is the first house on the right side of the Boulevard des Capucines. Passing the Vaudeville Theatre, THE OPERA COMIQUE we come in front, same side, of a great linen house, and further on are the Remington Typewriters and Lhre- Cathelin. On the left, there is a series of fine stores, where almost everything can be found— objects of art, tapestry, costly books, Japanese curiosities and extra fine confectionery. The Opera The boulevard then cuts across the magnificent square of the Opera, the right side of which is entirely occupied by the monumental edifice of the Grand Opera, of which we now perceive but the frontage, with its ground story orna- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 63 merited by eight symbolic statues in relief : La Pocsie Ly- rique, by Jouffroy ; La Musique, by Guillaume ; L'Idylle, by Aizelin ; La Dcclaination, by Ghapu ; Le Chant, by Du- bois de Vatrinelle; Le Drame, by Falguiere ; La Danse and Le Draine Lyriqiic, by Carpeaux. The Grand Cafe de la Paix is at the angle made by the square and the boulevard, and next to it is the main en- trance of the Grand Hotel. A step further you find the sign, in bold lettering, of the Compagnie Gcticrale Transatlantiqiie : it is the passenger ofhce where tickets for New York are sold, and where return tickets are checked in the emergency you are provided with excursion fare. We have now come to the Boulevard de la Madeleine, where is located, on the left side, the celebrated house of Legoupy, with an exposition of valuable engravings equally attractive to the connoisseur and the curious ; the stores of the Car7iival de Venise ; a carpet and furniture establish- ment of the first-class ; a shop of artistically curved tortoise shell articles ; jewelry stores, modistes, and, finally, the store Trots- Quar tiers. The Madeleine Church All the boulevards, along with the Boulevard de la Ma- deleine, end conterminously in front of the church of the Madeleine, which assuredly is well worthy of a visit. The exterior of the church, with its frontispiece of tall columns, will impress you, and its architectural style, borrowed from the Roman temples, has an undefinable attraction. Rue Royale We will now turn to the left and enter into the Rue Royale, one of the broadest artery of the great capital. On the right you will come across well-known jewelry houses, such as Fontana and Mermillod ; there is also a veiy interest- ing display of photographic views a few steps further. On the opposite side of the street the stores are of the same category: jewelry, artistic furniture, and photographic views vie one with the other to attract the attention of the prome- nader, and probably the one who carries the palm of attrac- tiveness is the display of the great florist on that block. This street is rather short. On the left it ends at the Ministry of Marine, where it empties on the Place de la Con- corde, famous among all in history. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 6C Place de la Concorde It is pn this square that over three thousand persons, Louis XVI with the rest, were guillotined during the first Revolution. Here leave your carriage for a few moments. The first thing that will call your attention is a great pyramid in stone-ware, seventy-five feet in height, and covered with Egyptian inscriptions. It is made of a single block and was presented to Louis-Philippe by Mehemet Ali, pasha of Egypt, where it comes from. The rigging and tools which served to its transport and its erection in France, figure upon the pedestal. On the right of the obelisk is the gate to the Garden of the Tuileries, through which you perambulated the day after your arrival in Paris. From where you stand, you see the Chamber of Deputies on the other side of the Seine. At both extremities of the inner square where stands the column, there are two fountains surmounted by statues throwing streams of water which falls in spray in the reservoir below. There are eight statues forming the delimitation of the square, each repre- senting a great city of France. The most popular of those statues is that of Strasboiirg by Pradier, which a delegation of patriotic Alsatians decorate with wreaths on the national feast day ; this statue is the one nearest to the Ministry of Marine. The others represent Lille, by Pradier; Bordeaux and Nantes, by Calhouet ; Rouen and Brest, by Cortot; Marseille and Lyon, by Petitot. Having enjoyed the magnificent spectacle presented by this incomparable public square, reenter your carriage, and the coachman will drive along the Ayenue des Champs-Elys^es through its entrance at the Place de la Concorde, which is indicated by two statues representing horse tamers and called Les Chevaux de Marly. They are a symmetrical counterpart of the winged horses which ornament the out- gate of the Tuileries and facing them. There is always a large and animated concourse of people on this Avenue, and naturally to a greater degree during the Exposition. From this spot you can admire at ease the main entrance of the Exposition, which is erected on the Champs- Elysees. The two first edifices on your left — built on the very spot of the former Palace of Industry — are the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais. In order to reach it, you will HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 67 pass in front, and on the left, of the Jardin de Paris. Facing, on the other side of the Avenue, is the Concert des Am- bassadeurs, and in the back, the Restaurant des Ambassa- deurs, and next to it, the Concert de I'Alcazar. The Avenue in front of the Grand Palace of the Exposi- tion is named the Avenue Marigny ; it is partially occupied on the right by the Palais de I'Elysee, which is the official residence of the President of the Republic. Opposite the Avenue Marigny, at the corner of the Avenue des Champs- Elysees, is the Marigny Theatre, a circular byilding. A little further, in the Champs-Elys^es, and on the same side, is the Cirque d'Ete, which is built on the cycle of the Champs Elysees, whilst on the other side of the Avenue, the Ice Palace is the structural pendant to the Cirque. From this point the Avenue des Champs-Elysees conti- nues uninterrupted until it reaches the Arc-de-Triomphe; however, in this portion it is devoid of the profuse shading afforded by the trees of the Garden. But it is bordered on both side by somptuous residences ; business establishments here are scarce. Place de I'Etoile and Arc-de-Trioiuplie The Avenue des Champs-Elysees ends at the Place de I'Etoile, where twelve large avenues have their terminus. In the centre of the cycle is erected the Arc-de-Triomphe, which, begun in 1806 in commemoration of the battle of Austerlitz, was completed but thirty years later. On the pilasters which support the arc, there are sculptural subjects deserving attention. Facing you, on the right, Le Depart de lygs by Rude, is reputed to be the most artistic group of the four ; above is the Funeral of Marceau. Turning to the right you see on the left La Resistance d I' envahtssement, and above it the Passage of the Bridge of Areola ; then Les Bienfaits de. la Paix, singularly emphasized by the group immediately above representing La Prise d'Alexan- drie. Finally Le Triomphe (1810), representing Murat capturing Mustapha. From the summit of the monument, which is reached by a staircase, the view is one of the most ])icturesque in Paris. The carriage will take you from here to the Avenue du Bois, with which you are already acquainted, and thence you will recross the Place of the Arc-de-Triomphe to drive through the Avenue Friedland. 68 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Friedland Ayenue Here the scene changes completely, it is devoid of the bustle and animation we have just passed through. Fried- land is a residential avenue, monopolized by the famihes of financiers and merchant princes ; and, comparatively, it is quite shprt, ending at the intersection formed by the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor^, in which is seen, looking to the left, the Beaujon Hospital, on the right side of the street. Bouleyard Haussmann We are now entering the Boulevard Haussmann, which retains some of the characteristics of Friedland Avenue, of which it is a kind of an extension. The Boulevard is at first intersected on the left by Messine Avenue, the junction forms a semblance of a square upon which is erected the Statue of Shakespeare. Pursuing down the Boulevard Haussmann, you reach its intersection with the Boulevard Malesherbes which takes place on large square upon which is erected the beautiful and rich church of Saint-Augustin, which you should visit if you can spare the time. While facing the church you will see on your right, at the corner of Rue de la Pepini^re, the infantry barracks of that name, and a few steps further, the small Delaborde Square. Pursuing your drive on the Boulevard Haussmann, you will see on the right the large stores of the celebrated Potin; continuing to the right you will come to a cluster of trees surrounding a monument, it is the Expiatory Chapel erected in memory of Louis XVI. A little further on, you come up to a square upon which is erected quite a large building bearing the name of Le Printemps (The Spring) and which has the outward appearence of a department store. However, it does not come up in size or variety to its elders in that branch of commercial activity, much less to the most won- derful of all, Le Bon Marche, which is not alone the largest of all, but at the same time the most magnificent for the richness of its goods and the surprising completeness of its assortment, which covers everything the imagination of man can conceive. On your left, at the bottom of the street which crosses the Boulevard, you can see one of the wings of the railroad Sta- tion Saint-Lazare, the converging point of all the trains run- ning through the western part of France. We now leave the Boulevard Haussmann and enter in the Rue Auber, and again find ourselves in the midst o{ a luxu- /O HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE rious business quarter. On your right and left, shop win- dows are so elaborately and artistically dressed that your curiosity will be assuredly tempted. Many English houses are here represented, the Cooks, Mainbys, etc., etc.; jew- eleis, diamond dealers, with here and there a fashionable shoemaker, a dealer in fine Chinaware and cut glassware, or a merchant of exquisite cordials, etc. Before reaching the Opera, of which the right view stands in front of you, are the offices of the Compagnie et de la Banque Generale Transatlantique, located undoubtedly in the most mag- nificent edifice owned by any maritime company. Here, you may be sure that all desired information about steam- ers or travelers you are interested in will be given you in your own language, with the greatest pleasure. The first promenade is now over, and you have been through a pretty good portion of Paris. If you are dressed for the theatre you had better dine in the imme- diate neighborhood, at the Cafe de Paris, kept by Mourier. It is one of the restaurants in vogue in Paris, on account of its table recherchee and its exquisite wines. «— ««CP j^f ^.53^— » "^4 now TO SEE PARIS ALONE yi SECOND CARRIAGE PROMENADE. Starting : Place de I'Opera^ — Avenue de ^ I'Opera — Place du Theatre Frangais, stopping at the Palais Royal — Place du Carrousel — Quay of the Louvre — Quay of the iVI^gisserie — Quay of Gesvres, stopping at the City Hall — Areola Bridge — Rue d'Arcole, stopping at the Church of Notre-Bame — Quay of the Marche-Neuf— Boulevard du Palais, stopping at the Court House — Quay of I'Horloge, Rue de I'Horloge — Rue de Harlay — Quay des Orfevres — St. Michel Bridge — Place St. Michel — Boulevard St. Michel — Rue de Medicis — Rue de Vaugirard — Rue d'Assas, to the right — Rue du Cherche- Midi, to the right — Rue de Sevres — Rue du Bac — Boulevard St. Germain — Place de la Con- corde — Rue de Rivoli. Before commencing this promenade, you should take breakfast at one of the- numerous restaurants which are in the vicinity. Having finished your breakfast, the starting point will begin at the spot where ended your first promenade of the day previous, on the Place de I'Opera. I will omit speak- ing again of this monument, of which you have already admired the frontispiece; but I will invite you to cast a glance about the square, not so much on account of the architectural beauty of the houses erected around it, as for the commercial importance of the firms located here. On the right, the sleeping-car; Cook's agency in front; a celebrated confectioner again on the right, and on the left the stot'es of well-known houses, such as those of Dr. Piene, for instance, or those of Moet & Chandon, the tele- graph agency of the Journal des Debats and a theatrical agency. At the corner of the Avenue de I'Opera, which opens be- fore you, begins the Rue de la Paix, where you made your first promenade on foot. The Avenue de I'Opera is un- doubtedly the finest avenue in Paris, owing principally to the elegance and richness of its stores, the special care be- stowed by the municipality upon its broad driveway and sidewalks, and also on account of its beautiful and costly apartments, commanding the highest rental in Paris, and f;;om whose balconies the view embraces the splendor of this incomparable thoroughfare in its fuHncss. 72 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Among the most brilliant shop windows that of Braun, the official photographer of the Louvre and the National museums, the celebrated Liberty in front, Cunard on one side, Flammarion, a dealer in paintings and Venetian vases of rare beauty, on the left; a jeweler who is a specialist in fine pearls; some artistic sculptors on the left; a v/ell- known dealer in coffee not far from a merchant of canes well known to the old Parisians; C. Gagne Peht on the right, then a number of stores containing all specialties in- cidental for traveling. The avenue has its outlet in the Theatre Francais Square, named after the theatre, which stands at your left on the HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 73 square. The exterior of the theatre, which is considered as the sanctuary of the legitimate drama in France, is not in keeping with its interior, in which are crowded artistic marvels and upon whose stage are daily represented mas- icr^icces of French art. Your carriage, in rounding the square, will come to a stop at the left of the theatre, on the riace du Palais Royal. Step down from your car- riage to examine the famous show-windows which monop- olize the whole space between the balconies and the pavc- Pf^PRSPSB^P^i^ ms^m^mm THE MINISTRY OF FINANCE. ment. First, the balcony bordering on the gardens. Ii lakes the name of the gallery of Montpensier on the left and the gallery of Valois on the right. The transverse gal- lery, which you see on your right on entering, is the gallery of Orleans. These galleries deserve a visit, especially on a bad day, when you do not know where to direct your steps. It was formerly the centre of Paris, much frequented by the snobs. It is now decadent, especially since the open- ing of the Avenue de I'Opera; also, the galleries of the HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 75 Palais Royal have been abandoned one after the other by the large jewelry houses formerly congregated there, which have now moved, with their shop-windows, to the most conspicuous places surrounding the Madeleine and the Opera. It is, however, worthy of a visit on account of its old-fashioned jewelry stores, containing antique engrav- i igs and heraldic devices, ([uaintly carved. As for the gal- lery of Orleans, it ofTers a strange view in being the centre of a commerce quite Parisian in its nature, and pretty flourishing, in selling clothes and wraps for little dogs. You can see there all kinds of furnishers, shoemakers and tailors for these interesting animals. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 7/ On leaving the Palais Royal, the carriage crosses the Rue de Rivoli, and then passes under the Ministry of i<"i- nance (located in the new Louvre) by the double-vaulted gate which opens upon the Place du Carrousel. The first thing to attract your attention, on the left, will be a large monument, almost new in appearance. The monumuiu was erected in honor of Ganibetta, the organizer of liic National Defense. The famous tribune is represented in a speaking attitude, while on the apex of the pyramid is the figure oi Democracy, symbolized by a young female urging on a winged lion- On the other side of the square, but more to the right, is the Arc du Triomphe du Car- rousel, of which you had a glance from the Tuileries Gar- den. All around, except on the right side, which is taken up by the Tuileries, the square is wedged in by the struc- ture of the Louvre Palace. After passing under the im- mense archways which lead to the Seine, you will drive to the left up to the quays. On your left the Louvre Palace entends its architectural grandeur until it reaches the square to which it gives its name. Opposite the main en- trance of the palace is the church of St. Germain I'Auxer- rois, a church famous in the annals of pitiless religious in- tolerance, for it was from its towers that was tolled the massacre of St. Bartholomew. The church is worth visit- ing from a purely artistic point of view; however, of this more anent in the following chapter. Continuing upon the quays, we soon arrive at a bridge for the exclusive use of pedestrians, and called the Pont des Arts (Arts Bridge), which spans the Seine, anchoring on the other side in front of the Institut, which is the abode of the five academies, of which the one known as the French Academy is the principal. Further on is the Pont Neuf (New Bridge), after which we come to the Pont du Chatelet. As we shall, later on, retrace our steps by this way, I will for the present refrain from calling your attention to the edi- fices and monuments on your right. I will merely inform you that the agglomeration of stones having the idealistic form of antique feudal castles is known by the euphemistic appellation of La Conciergerie — a more or less polished name for a common prison. But on looking to your left in the Place du Chatelet you will see two theatres facing each other; the one on the side of the Louvre is the Chate- let Theatre, and the other is the Sarah Bernhardt Theatre, named after and managed by the great artist vyho has been applauded in all the capitals of the world. The next bridge has its terminus on the City Island (lie HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 79 de la Cite), where we shall proceed after admiring ilie beautiful City Hall, which is on our left. During the raging times of the Commune, in 1871, the City Hall (H6tel-de-VilIe) was destroyed by the incendiary torch. It has been reconstructed since. In its precincts are held the sessions of the Municipal Council, but its right wing, abutting on the quay, is the olficial residence of the Prefect of the Seine. The statues between the windows are those of celebrated men. The clock is one of the most remarkable and artistic parts of the whole frontispiece of the edifice. It is framed on each side by pilasters orna minted with statues representing respectively Labor and Study; the coat-of-arms of the City of Paris is supported by females, while two statues crown the central campanile. The group formed by the clock and the seven statues surround- ing it deserves assuredly a few moments of attentive criti- cism. Stepping again into your carriage, and continuing your promenade on the quays bordering the City Hall, you will perceive on the same side the equestrian statue of Etienne Marcel, a rather martial arrangement for a provost of the Paris merchants in the XlVth century. The bridge upon which we now enter is called the Pont d'Arcole (Areola Bridge). It leads to the parvis of the Church of Notre-Dame, which was so often the theatre of the tumulLuous meetings of the Fronde under the minor- ity of Louis XIV., and where the people also massed them- selves to hear the Te Deum sung in thankful acknowledg- ment of the victory won by the great Conde at Sens. We now stand on the City Island (ile de la Cite); that is, upon the spot which was the cradle of the City of Paris. The River Seine here branches of¥ in two streams to be re- united lower down, at the Pont-des-Arts. The Church of Notre-Dame is the Cathedral See of Paris; it is also one of the oldest churches in France, its foundation dating back to 1163. You naturally should visit its interior, but. until you have time to do so critically, cast .'I ;j;lancc on the frontispiece, which consists of a triple por- tal. That of the centre is the Portal of the Last Judg- ment; Christ, by Geoffrey Dcchaume, ornamcnTs the el- liptic; on the pilasters, on either side of the main door, are grouped the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The left door, known as the Portal of the Virgin, is more elaborate than its counterpart on the right; the Virgin is represented trampling under foot the serpent, while Adam and Eve ap- pear in relief on the pedestal, with statues of saints harmo- 80 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE niously distributed on both sides of the door. The third, or the portal at the right, is dedicated to St. Ann. As you leave the parvis of Notre-Dame you will per- ceive on the right side of the square a large edifice; it is the Hotel Dieu, one of the most important and justly cele- brated hospitals in Paris. We now take the Quai du Marche Neuf (^New Market Quay). On the right and par- allel to the Quai we come to a large building, stern in aspect. It is the Prefecture de Police (Police headquar- ters), where are concentrated the various oiifices of the Paris Police and Public Security. The Prefet (chief) has his residential quarters in the building. A few steps fur- ther we turn to the right and enter the Boulevard du Palais, and we will stop in front of the Courthouse (Palais de Justice) and facing the Tribunal du Commerce. Of the Courthouse you now see but the gilded railing and the monumental stairs, which lead to the Hall of the Pas Per- dus (Lost Steps). However, in the next chapter, we shall visit the interior of the Palais (page 102); but if you have the time now, you should visit the steeple, which behind you, on the left, towers above the structural agglomeration of the Temple of Themis, and belongs to the Holy Chapel (Samte Chapelle). (Page 102.) Continuing our promenade around the Courthouse, we come in front of the Conciergerie (an historical prison, contiguous to the Palais, and which is on the visiting pro- gramme in Chapter VI.) (Page 76). The Conciergerie faces the Place du Chatelet. The great tower, with its clock, at the corner of the Boulevard du Palais and the Quai dc I'Horloge, are worth visiting for their curiosity and age. We keep along the Palais on Harlay street, following for a few moments the Quai des Orfevres, and cross the Bridge St. Michel, which abuts on the square of the same name. On the right, in the background of the square, is the St. Michel fountain, where a group of bronze represents St. Michel felling the dragon. On either side of the foun- tain are columns in reddish marble, with four statues. La Verite (Truth;, La Prudence (Prudence), La Justice (Jus- tice), La Force (Strength). We shall now go up the Boulevard St. Michel, which is the soul-life of the famous Latin quarter. Few that have not heard of the spirited Latin quarter, where the students of all the great schools and colleges congregate and enliven its learned precincts with their antics. Although frolicsome to the extreme, the Parisian student is neither rough nor wicked: he is simply fond of laughter. It is a spectacle worth the while to watch them coming down their Boule- now TO SEK PARIS ALONE 8l vard St. Michel at about four in the afternoon, singing the joyous refrains of their college songs. But the student is at his best in the evening, and is an interesting study when seen seated in one of those cafes which spread their tables on the sidewalk of the Boulevard St. Michel, especially at Vachette. If tempted by curiosity, proceed to the place unincum- bered. Vou will find the hilarious youth of the quarter draining, in the most conformistic style, countless beer mugs and applauding scraps of oratorical volcancity until TOWER OF ST. JACQUES. the small hours of the morning. These diuturnal libations — so great is the constitutional elasticity of the Parisian stu- 'dent — do not seem to affect him in* the least, for he is found, punctually on time, at the opening of the various courses at eight o'clock in the morning. We leave the Boulevard St. Alichel opposite the larger garden of the IvUxembourg one of the most beautiful gar- dens in Paris. If you have the time, you should take a walk through it, as it contains, besides a very replete mu- seum, many artistic and beautiful things, which are all de- scribed in the following chapter. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 03 Your carriage will proceed by the Rue Vaugirard. From the beginning we find, on the left, surrounded by the green lawns of the Luxembourg, the Senate Chamber. Once out- side of the Luxembourg, we have left the Latin quarter, and we are fully on the left side of the River Seine, in a so-called aristocratic quarter, the gloomiest of all Paris. THE BON MARCHE. Here shops are rare, pedestrians scarce and con- structions worth mentioning do not exist, but, after pass- ing through two small streets of a cemetery-like stillness, we finally reach the Rue dc Sevres, where life and bustle are predominant. We are in tlie quarter of the greatest retail shops in the world, among which the "Bon Marche," where reigns from 84 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ten in the morning until eight o'clock of the evening the most astonishing animation. Speaking of the "Bon Marche," the extraordinary suc- cess of that undertaking- — the pioneer of its kind in the world — is a well-deserved one, and, moreover, Madame Boussicaut, the founder, has devoted the immense fortune realized from this daring enterprise to an infinity of benev- olent deeds and large humanitarian works. Proceeding around the huge edifice of the "Bon Marche," we reach the Rue du Bac, which leads us to the Boulevard STATUE OF JOAN OF ARC. St. Germain, a quarter somewhat permeated with gloomi- ness and in preference inhabited by the wealthy nobility. We finally reach the Pont de la Concorde, leaving on our left the Chamber of Deputies or the Bourbon Palace, whose frontispiece is almost an exact counterpart of that of the Madeleine on the opposite side of the Place de la Concorde. The steps to the Chamber are ornamented by statues of Themis and Minerve, of Aguesseau, Cal- bert, I'Hospital and Sully. Twelve columns support the en- now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 8$ lablaturc, the frieze of which represents France holding the constitution, surrounded by the symbolical figures of Lib- triy, Agriculture, Peace and Order. The carriage having crossed the Place de la Concorde will take the Rue de Rivoli, which borders on the Tui- leries, the left side of which is entirely constructed in ar- cades. Here you give the coachman the order to return, or to drive to one of the restaurants in the neighborhood. You pass before the statue of Joan of Arc. In the vi- cinity you can dine at the Restaurant Foyot, facing 'the Senate. THIRD CARRIAOE PROMENADE. Porte Maillot — Road from Porte Maillot to Porte des Sablons — Road from Madrid to Porte Maillot — Jardin d' Acclimation, stop — from Jar- din d'acclimation to the Chateau de Madrid by the road from Porte Maillot to Madrid — Return- ing by Madrid Road to the Lakes — Suresnes Road — Dauphine Gate — Avenue du Bois. This promenade should be made in fair weather. Leave about half-past nine in the morning, in order to breakfast surrounded by the green foliage in the midst of a luxuriant vegetation perfuming the air. According to the itinerary given the coachman, he will first drive through Paris to the Porte Maillot, an entrance to the Bois de Boulogne, which you have not yet seen. He will drive you by the route of the Pone Maillot to the Porte des Sablons, where you will meet thousands of bicyclists riding up the Boulevard Mail- lot, which is on your right. The carriage will pass behind the Pavilion d'Armenonville — a restaurant where you stopped a few days ago — and will take you by the grand Avenue de Madrid, which passes in front of the Acclima- tation Garden, where we shall stop. The Garden of Acclimatation is undoubtedly the most beautiful of its kind. Here are gathered and nursed animal and vegetal species from the whole world. The harmo- nious display of accumulated natural riches reposes the eye and is at the same time a relaxation to the mind. The price of admission on week days — the place should be vis- ited on week days, for the crowd on Sundays makes it un- comfortable — is 2 francs in the morning, i franc in the af- ternoon and on Sunday it is lo cents. You enter the Garden through a turnstile, at the side of the iron carriage gate, which lands you on the right side 86 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE of the Main Alley (Allee principale). Cross the alley ob- liquely, in order to reach the Conservatory, which is the first edifice at the left of the Main Alley. After having visited the Conservatory in every way, leave the place by the door facing the one through which you came in; it will lead you to the Palmarium, a new structure where fine con- certs are given and where a very select restaurant is estab- lished. The place and the hour are both propitious for breakfasting. The breakfast over, you quietly resume your promenade, following the itinerary, specially devised to enable you to see every curiosity in this living museum. I recommend you to witness, at the Otaria Basin, the meal of the seals, a performance which takes place at three o'clock and which is very interesting. In the centre of the garden, at the music stand, very good music is played every afternoon. There is also the Panorama of the Antediluvian World, which is worth visiting, for lo cents. If children accompany you, do not fail to stop at the point marked Embarcadere. For a trilie, 5 or 10 cents each promenade, you may give them unmeasured happiness — without risk or danger — riding the elephant, the ponies, the camels, driving in a carriage drawn by an ostrich, etc. In the meantime, you may visit the riding academy. It remains for me to indicate two points which yoa should visit before leaving the garden, the monkey ca -ce and the creamery. In leaving the Palmarium you di rect yourself to the monkey cage. In Paris, as wherever zoological gardens exist, the habitat of the mon- key draws the greatest crowd. Is this universal attraction attributal)le to a mere sentiment of curiosity, or is it due to an unconscious affinity as predicated by the theory that man descends from the monkey? Be that as it may, it is with the monkey as with many among us, he is fond of nuts, provided they are not too hard to crack. Theories are procurable from philosophers, but nuts can be had for a few cents from the keepers. However, be very care- ful in handing ihem to our supposititious racial ancestors, for they might push their scientific inquisitiveness to the extent of attempting to find whether there is any truth in the saying that blood is thicker than water. The" Creamery is the other point of interest. Step in and take a cup of milk, of genuine warm milk, fresh from the cow, which is a rare treat outside the farmhouse. now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 8/ Leaving the Garden of Acclimatation, your carriage will continue on the Avenue de Madrid until it reaches the castle oi the same name. You are now driving on the road to the lakes, but on a route running through a portion of the Bois to- tall}- dilTerent from the one visited in your preceding i)romenade. Having gone around the lake and opposite you take the route de Suresnes which will bring you back to the Avenue du Bois, with which you are now familiar. Your carriage will now take its place in the brilliant daily pageant from the Bois. "^^^" CHAPTER VI. PUBLIC GARDENS It is hardly possible to take a jaunt of any extent through Paris without meeting green foliage, grassy plots or flow- er beds. The municipal authorities have shown in the mat- ter of disseminating here and there open breathing spots that they had at heart not alone the embellishment of Paris, but also the public health as well as intelligent concern for the proper physical development of the youth. There is not a quarter of Paris without its garden or square. But, in addition to these small squares, there are others, more pretentious in size and oftentimes very beautiful, both on account of this harmonious ensemble and the artistic ob- jects they contain. For mstance, the Tuileries Gardens, which we visited in ail its details the first day of our ar- rival. (See page 42.) The Tuileries Garden. The Tuileries are adjacent to the Champs Elysees. Strictly speaking it is more of an extensive and shaded promenade than a garden. The main alley, which di- verges to the right and left, enables the visitor to embrace the full scope of the landscape at his first promenade. Not- withstanding that the surroundings naturally remain the same, the spectacle in this garden changes surprisingly with the time of day. In the morning it is a solitude for the dreamer. At about one o'clock in the afternoon it is in- vaded by the children, who make its precincts resound with peals of laughter in front of the catch-penny shows, which never fail to draw also a fa-ir contingent of their equally naive elders. Then, before the sun disappears in the west- ern horizon, it is the turn of the brilliant mundane proces- sion returning from the Bois, and which you joined on your first carriage promenade (Chapter V., p. 53), which furnishes its dazzling quota of animation to this magnificent avenue, which will relax into dark stillness a few minutes later. But while the right bank of the river Seine prides itself on the Tuileries, the left bank claims the Luxembourg HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 89 Garden, whose main entrance is on the Avenue de I'Obser- vatoire. Tlu' Luxembourg- Gardeu. Better stop at the corner of the street Auguste-Comte and the avenue of the Observatoire. If one has a carriage, tell the coachman to wait at the gate rue Vaugirard. Let us first glance up the avenue of the Observatoire. which is the continuation of the garden. At the extreme end of the avenue one sees the observatory, of which we will speak on another page. This avenue is partly cut by a number of gardens, called "Jardins Anglais," lighted by two rows of gaslight. On the right of the avenue there are several important buildings, the nearest to the Luxem- bourg, I'Ecole Coloniale touches the Lycee Montaigne, and nearby, on the same avenue, is seen I'Ecole de Phar- macie. The avenue ends at the place of I'Observatoire, and at the extreme end of it there is a fountain called Foun- taine de I'Observatoire, where one can see the works of Carpeaux and Fremiet. Carpeaux's four statues of bronze, representing four women, emblems of Europe, Asia, Africa and America, supporting a large globe. Over this globe falls a shower of water emitted from the mouth of marine horses, the work of Fremiet. Let us now cross the rue Augustc-Conite and enter into the Luxembourg. This large park has two principal walks, perpendicular to each other, and at their intersection there is formed a hemisphere, where a number of steps lead one to a large fountain or basin. Entering by the gate at the avenue of I'Observatoire, to one's right is seen the greenhouses. Continuing to the fountain, one passes at his left the beautiful monument of Eugene Delacroix, by Dalow. It represents Time bring- ing glory to the artist and applauded by the Genius of Arts. Around the octagonal basin of the fountain one can see, placed at regular intervals, twenty statues of women, celebrated in French history, the names of which are given on the itinerary a little further on; also those of the statues around the Musee of the Luxembourg and the Palace of the Senate, both of which are to the left. The walk on the right perpendicular to the one which has just been taken leads one to a gate on the Boulevard Saint- Michel, near I'Ecole des IMines. Before reaching the boulevard, one will see a music stand where three times a week— Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 5 p. m.— can be heard concerts by a military band. Almost at the gate 90 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE to the right is a very pretty statue, the Mouth of Truth. To the left, below, is a very remarkable fountain. The Fontaine of Medicis, built by Debrosse, and facing the Musee, described further on, there is an entrance to the Musee rue Vaugirard. The Luxembourg has many large and beautiful, as well as artistic, statues, and is well worth visiting, notwith- standing that many Parisians fail to render it justice on account of the many students who use it as a thorough- fare, and whose merriment oftentimes becomes boisterous. (Carriages are allowed within the Luxembourg.) TRINITY CHURCH. The Monceau Park. The Monceau Park is an altogether different place from the two resorts precedingly described. It is a really po etical retreat in the very heart of Paris, and where Guy de Maupassant, the celebrated novelist, sought for his in spirations. The park is crossed by two broad avenues running at right angles one with the other, one of whic!) is the means of communication between the Avenue dc HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Ql ]\[essinc and the Boulevard Courcelles, whilst the other unues tlie Avenue Hoche and the Boulevard Alalesherbes. The carriage road, which is in great use, begins at the gate on the Avenue de Messine and ends at the Boulevard Courcelles, opposite a rotunda known as the Chartres Pa- vilion, where the park keepers are lodged. About one hundred paces from this rotunda, through the alley on the left, yoif will find the monument of Guy de Maupas- sant, by Verlet. The bust of the novelist is raised on the summit of a pyramid at whose base is represented a woman seated on a bench, dreaming before a book spread open on her knees. This allegorical figure is borrowed from a portrayal in one of Maupassant's novels, who had a strong predilection for this pose, which he oftentimes selected as the theatre of the most stirring scenes elab- orated by his fertile brain. On your right you will see the ruins of a colonnade once erected on the border of the Naumachie, the name of an oval pond, frequented by some twenty ducks, with two or three swans proudly circumnavigating a limited area. Beyond this small pond you reach the avenue which is the communicating link between the Avenue Hoche and the Boulevard Maiesherbes. Near the Boulevard, at No. 7 Velasquez Avenue — which is the name of the avenue running from gate to gate in the interior of the Park- is located the Cernuschi Museum, containing Chinese and Japanese collections. " Tlie Squares. As already stated, small squares abound in Paris. It . is in those squares boarding-schools and mothers of fam- ilies send their children to play from twelve to four o'clock; unnecessary to say that youthful exuberance pre- t^ails among the short-skirted and newly-breeched gentry. One of the largest of those squares is that of the Arts et Metiers (Arts and Trades), situated on the Boulevard Sebastopol opposite the Conservatoire des Arts et Me- tiers; it is worthy of a visit. Details will be found elsewher? But the most lively of all of them — probably on account of the great numbers of boarding schools located in its vicinity and of the large number of well-to-do people domi- ciled in that quarter of the city — is Trinity Square, named after the Church of the Trinity, which is a few steps from it, and deserves a visit, as it is one of the richest parochial churches of Paris. NOTRE DAME HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 93 The (iJarden of Plants. (Jardiii des Plaiites.) The Jardin dcs Plantcs, situated Place Valhubert, oppo- site the railway station ut Orleans, is certainly a magnifi- cent public garden, and it would be entitled to important mention if I intended to treat of it in this paragraph. But the name Jardin des Plantes is an abbreviation of its full name, which is Museum of Natural History of the Jardin des Plantes, and for this reason we have placed this mu- seum of animate objects under the head of IMuseums in this work, and wc shall, therefore, ask the reader to consult page 173 for particulars concerning it. The Park of the Buttes Chaiiiuoiit. This park (Rue Bolivar), although in Paris, is but little known to the Parisian of the boulevards. It is located on the hill of Belleville, a part of the city given up to the workman; it is very hilly and is worth seeing. There is a grotto in which is a waterfall of 100 feet in height, and one of its chief curiosities. This cascade is formed by one of the artificial brooks which flow into the lake. This lake, which is covered with pleasure boats (they rent at 2 francs an hour),_is of about four acres in extent. In the midst of it a mass of rock rises in a peak to an elevation of about 150 feet, the sum- mit of which can be reached by a stairway of about 200 steps, called le Chemin des Aiguilles, the Path of the Needles. Access to this is usually forbidden to the public. Park of Montsouris. This park lies completely without the limits of the City of Paris, and the most practicable route for reaching it is by the railway for Sceaux. station of the Luxembourg, which railway cuts it into two unequal parts. In the park itself is situated the meteorological observatory of Mont- souris. It is in the Moorish style of architecture, which figured in the Exposition of 187S, and is a reproduction of the Bardo, the palace of the Bey of Tunis. There is a wide view from it. Tlie Churches. I do not propose here to point out the particular beauty of the several Parisian rhurches, nor to give a nomencla- ture of them, masmuch as there are three or four churches HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 95 in every quarter of Paris. The short-stayed visitor, how- ever piously inclined, could not find the time to visit them all, for the actual total number reaches over seventy, and more are erected every day, without taking into account the numerous chapels also assiduously frequented by the faithful. Aly simple duty is to mention those that are re- nowned for their architectural beauty or for the part they occupy either in the past or present history of France, such, for instance, as St. Germain TAuxerrois and the Russian Church. Americau Churches. It is only natural that I should mention in the tirst place the American Church at No. 21 Rue de Berri, offices at 11 A. M. and 3 P. M., and the American Episcopal Church, No. Kj bis Avenue de I'Alma, offices at 8.30, — , n A. M. and 4 P. AI. English Churches. As to the churches in which the English language is used exclusively there are two, one No. 35 Rue d'Agues- seau, the other Rue des Bassins No. 7. The following is a list of the Protestant churches to be found in Paris: Protestaut Clmrclies. Confession d' Augsbourg. Tentple de la Redemption (Rue Chauchat, 16). Temple des Billettes (Rue des Arch). Oratoire de Saint-Marcel (Rue Tourneloit, 19). Oratoire de la Trinite (Boulevard de la Gare. 72). Oratoire de la Resurrection (Rue Quinnault). Oratoire du Bon-Secours (Rue Titon, 20). Oratoire des Batignolles (Rue Dulong, 47). Oratoire du Gros-Caillou (Rue Amelie. 19)- Oratoire de Montmartre (Rue des Poissonniers, 43). Eglise de la Villette (Rue de Crimee. 93). Eglise suedoise (Boulevard Ornano, ig). Eglises reformees. Temple de I'Oratoire (Rue' Saint-Honore, 145). Oratoire Saint-Esprit (Rue Roquepine. 3). Chapelle Milton (Rue Milton, 5). Chapelle Pentemmont (Rue de Grenelle, 106). Chapelle Sainte-Marie (Rue Saint-Antoine, 216). Chapelle de Bercy (Rue Proudhon, 6). ST. AUGUSTIN CHURCH HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 97 Chapelle des Batignolles (Boulevard des Batignolles, 46). Chapelle de I'Etoile (Avenue de la Grande-Armee, 54). Chapelle de Clichy (Rue Gobert.5). Chapelle des Gobelins (Rue Lebrun, 35). Chapelle de Passy (Rue Cortambert, 19). Chapelle de Belleville (Rue Julien-Lacroix, 97). Chapelle de la Villette (Passage Thionville, 14). Chapelle de Charonne (Rue de la Reunion, 121). Eglises independantes. Temple Taitbout (Rue de Provence, 42). Temple du Luxembourg (Rue Madame, 58). Temple du Nord (Rue des Petits-Hotels, 8). Temple Saint-Antome (Avenue'Ledru-RoUin, 153). Mission populaire evangelique (Rue Royale, 23). Eglises methodistes et evangeliques de France. Temple Malesherbes (Rue Roquepine, 4), Culte Wesleyen. Temple des Ternes (Rue Demours, i6j. Temple des Batignolles (Rue Clarault, 20). Maison des Diaconesses (Rue de Reuilly, 95). Jewish Sj nagog-ues. In regard to Jewish Synagogues Paris counts very few, only four principal ones: 15 Rue Notre-Dame dc Nazareth. 21 Rue des Tournelles. 44 Rue de la Victoire. 28 Rue Bussault. NOTRE-DAJiJE.— The foremost Parisian Church is that of Notre-Dame, of which we have had occasion to admire the exterior in preceding promenades. The stained panes of the rose windows in the main and lateral portals date from the thirteenth century. That of the main portal represents m the centre the Virgin, Twelve Prophets, the Zodiacal Signs, and the labors of each month. The rose window of the lateral portal on the right represents angels. martyrs and apostles, with the armories of Cardinal de Noailles in the centre, who has had them restored; two large dark plates on the side of this portal are inscribed with the names of the hostages of the Commune, slaugh- tered at the prison of La Roquette or shot at the cemetery of Pere Lachaise on the 26th and 27th of May, 1871. The portal on the left represents the Virgin surrounded by the Kings and the prophets. 4?VJ HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 99 Entering the church by the middle nave you will pass in I'runt ui the pulpit — which is the work ut xvuigen, dat- ing nu later than iSbS — and leach the beautiiui raiung which divides the choir from the nave. The wainscoting of the clioir-stails will challenge your admiration, their bas-reliefs in wood represent scenes in the lives of Christ and the Virgin. In the background of the main altar a group by Coustou, and known as the votive offering oi Louis XIII., represents the Virgin, Christ and two angels. On each side of this group there are two statues, that of Louis XIII. on the rigbt and Louis XIV. on the left. In the back of the choir, to the right, you will notice twen- ty-three bas-reliefs dating from 1351; they illustrate the life of Christ from his birth to the Passion — the Visitation, the Washing of the Feet, the Flight to Egypt; whilst on the left side the Resurrection of Christ completes the Christian legend. The lateral chapels, which are numerous and very interesting, are mostly all memorials erected to archbish- ops or distinguished people inhumed therein. V/h'le visiting N^otre-Dame you should not neglect to see the Treasury, unique of its kind. Address yourself to the sacristan of the church, who is to be found on the right side of the choir, and who will, on the payment of ten cents and a trifle tip, accompany and give you all the necessary explanations. It is visible every day except be- tween the hours of 10 and 5 on Sunday. The Treasury con- tains the Sacred Relics, among which Christ's Crown of Thorns, one of the nails used in his crucifixion, a frag- ment of the real cross, the penitential robes of St. Louis; it contains, moreover, very numerous and very rich articles used in the religious service. -Mthough the interior of the church of Notre-Dame is of incomparable interest, the visitor is oftener attracted by the towers of that ancient basilic. Their reputation of being the highest point of vantage in Paris dates from time im- memorial; ihe Eiffel tower has not yet succeeded in ban- ishing tiiis long-rooted idea, and foreign tourists are there- fore aKvavs desirous of ascending the towers of No'.rc- Dame. They arc visitable between 9 and 5 o'clock. The admission is at the north tower, on your right coming out of the church, and the fee is four cents for the towers, or eight cents to visit the towers and chimes. The south tower contains the large bell, which has the intrinsic nu-rit of weighing about 28,000 pounds. LA MADELEINE. — If Notre-Dame, on account of be- ing the archbishopric of Paris, deserved to occupy the first place in these nr.'°K about the principal religious edifices lOO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE of Paris, La Madeleine naturally takes rank as the most mundane or aristocratic parish church in Paris. If the visitor will station, himself, at the issue of the one o'clock mass on Sunday, on the lower steps of the monumental peristyle of the Madeleine, he will feast his eyes upon a strange admixture of mundivagant piety and tailor-made devoutness. The all-Paris elegant feminity — holy- water lotioned and Caudray aromatized— is on show de- scending the peristyle to the brilliant equipages lining the walk in front of the house of worship. However, the Madeleine, outside of the mundanity of its worshippers and the pagan style of its exterior architecture, is a monument worthy of admiration. As already stated, it is modeled after the Roman temples, encircled with a series of ma- jestuous colonnades with recesses for , thirty-four niches, occupied by statues of saints of both sexes. The twenty-eight steps lead to the main door in bronze, Vv'ith the bas-reliefs by Triquete, representing the Decalogue, all of which is crowned with a sculptured fronton by Lemaire representing the Last Judgment. The Madeleine is open to visitors only from one until six, excluding Sundays on account of the numerous ser- vices that are held on the Sabbath. On week days you will generally find the front door closed; admittance is gained by one of the side doors, under the lateral colon- nade. Tiie visitor is at first astonished by the absence of aisles in the interior of the Madeleine. The series of col- umns seen on the outside is repeated in the interior, each column supporting a tribune, and the lateral chapels are in the nave proper. Magnificent paintings, surrounded by beautiful statues, ornament the upper part of the chapels, but unfortunately the dim light which ordinarily prevails in the church prevents giving them the full share of ad- miration they certainly merit. However, you cannot help admiring, above the main altar, the graceful group, by Marochetti, of St. Magdalene carried to Heaven. ST. AUGUSTIN.— Next to the Madeleine in mundanity as well as location is the Church of St. Augustin, on the Boulevard Malesherbes. It is devoid of any artistic merit; its main altar is remarkable for the loudness of its decora- tions. The services are invariably pompous and the cere- monial faultless. ST. GERMAIN L'AUXERROIS.— This is the church to which we called your attention in the second prome- nade as the one from whose towers the signal was sounded on the 24th of August, 1572, for the massacre of St. Bar- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE lOI tholomew. You are at first impressed by the originality of the frontispiece and the steeple, which date back io the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, as well as by the portico, \*ith its balcony overhead, and extending around the whole .•dit^f^e. The pilasters which support the arcades are orna- mented with statues: those on the right side represent St. Ccran, Landry and A gilbert, St. Ysabel of France, and St. Mathilde, St. Jane of Valois and St. Francis of Assisi; on the left side are the statues of St. Cloud and St. Clotilda, St. Redegonde, St. Alary the Egyptian, St. Denis, St. Aloval, St. Germain of Paris; the statue adorning the summit of the gable is that of St. Alichael. Over the main door is a statue of the Virgin, with St. Germain of Auxerre, St. Genevieve and an angel. The interior of this church abounds with objects of art and antiquities of the greatest interest. The stained-glass windows are especially remarkable, and some of them are very old. The church warden's pew is a marvel of cabinet work. The railing of the choir is of forged iron and will repay close examination, as w^ell as the several pieces of sculpture disseminated throughout the interior. ST. SULPICE. — One of the largest churches on the left bank of the Seine, and deriving great importance from the fact that the Great Seminary is its dependency. On the St. Sulpice Square a fountain is erected and dec- orated with the statues of Bossuet, Fenelon, Massillon and Flechier, celebrated by their learning, eloquent and as the most talented among the French preachers. The frontispiece is flanked with two towers, one of which is still unfinished. The interior is worthy of a visit. The frescoing in the chapels is remarkable, especially that of the Virgin, which is a masterpiece of the painter's art. The pulpit and the organ are also very much admired. NOTRE-DAAIE DES VICTOIRES.— This church is located on the square to which it gives its name, and quite near the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. If it was not for the fact that among a large number of the faithful it is a worshipping place of predilection. I would not have made mention of it, because, outside of the cabinet Work of the choir, it is artistically and architecturally de- void of special interest. SACRED HEART OF AIONTMARTRE. The Church of the Sacred Heart, still in course of con- struction, is situated at the top of Alontmartre. One can scarcely reach it except by special cab. Though incom- plete and surrounded by scaffolds, the divine service takes place. I02 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE One must apply to No. 31 Fontenelle Street, where ad- mission card is given for o fr. 25. The provisory entrance is on La Barre Street. Those who wish to visit the scaf- folds have to pay a fee of o fr. 50 (lOc). For the same amount one cin see the bell given by Savoie, called "La Savoyarde," weighing 27,065 kilograms. It is the largest bell in France. The church, when completed, will undoubtedly be a beau- tiful monument; but the details are, on account of the scaffolding, but little seen. THE HOLY CHAPEL When the visit of the church is over, do not fail to come to the flight of steps to contemplate a beautiful panorama. This is indeed a place from which, during clear weather, Paris is seen better. On the left of the church the immense construction you will perceive is a large reservoir, the capacity of which is about 11,000 cubic meters. In order to visit it, apply to the guardian, who will gladly receive a few cents as a tip. now TO SEE PARIS ALONE IO3 THE HOLY CHAPEL (La Sainte-Chapdle).— We place here the name of the Holy Chapel because it is gen- erally considered as a church. However, as the chapel is located in the Court House, its description will be found where we speak of that editice. THE SORBONNE CHURCH (I'Eghse de la Sor- bonnej. — Properly speakhig, it is not a church, but more of an historical chapel, inasmuch as all of the edifices which were clustered under the name of Sorbonne, this chapel is the only one that has not been reconstructed. Its erection dates from 16S5. The main entrance is on the Place de la Sorbonne. As the church is ordinarily deserted, you can visit its interior at leisure. A painting at the left of the main entrance will assuredly fix your attention. It is that of "Robert de Sorbonne Presenting His Young Pupils to St. Louis." On the right is the sepulchre of the Duke of Richelieu, who was a Alinister of State under Louis XVIII. But the church derives its greatest historical character from the fact that it contains the tomb of the great Richelieu, or the Red Duke, according to Alexandre Dumas. The sculp- tural work of the Cardinal's tomb is by Girardon. His Eminence is represented as leaning for assistance upon Religion and Science, while both of those symbolical fig- ures are shedding tears for the loss of this illustrious man, whose heart and cranium, which are now relics in the Sor- bonne Church, were for a long time a revered memento niori in the family 01 the author of the French version of this book. THE RUSSIAN CHURCH.— This church has ac- quired lately an historical celebrity from the fact that it was under its roof that the Franco-Russian alliance was sealed, when His Majesty the Czar of all the Russias placed his hand in the hand of the President of the French Republic amidst the acclamation of the delirious Parisian population. In the exterior of the church, with its gilded dome, lies its chief attraction. But if on a Sunday or Thursday, the only days visitors are admitted — between three and five o'clock — you should find time to enter it, outside of the general disposition customary in all Greek churches, i. e., vestibule, nave and sanctuary always closed, with paint- ings representing Jesus. Mary and some Russian saints, you will not find much to impress you. 104 HOW TO SEE FARIS ALONE The Cemeteries. Unless taken there for one's own good and last ac- count, or through a feeling of sentimental duty for the memory of beloved ones, a visit to a cemetery cannot be considered in the light of a cheerful recreation. Conse- quently, if one of the Paris cemeteries — owing to its riches and the variety of its monuments and the immense de- velopment it daily acquires — was not a spot to tickle the curiosity of the tourist, I would dismiss the subject by sim- ply stating that the French Capital is provided with eight immense cemeteries, giving their names, as follows: Est, Passy, Picpus, Montmartre, Nord, Sud, Montparnasse, and lastly that of Pere Lachaise, which deserves a few de- scriptive details for the reasons stated above. THE PERE LACHAISE. Le Pere Lachaise is ordinarily the last abode of dis- tinguished people and of the "have beens" of fashionable society. In fact, it is tres comme il faut— after death, of course — to crown one's fashionable life by being buried in Pere Lachaise, because, epidemy or no epidemy, it is all the fashion. It can be visited in all its magnificence only on foot, which would consume a great deal of time. However, a very fair general idea can be had of this vast necropolis from a carriage promenade through its drive- ways, which have names the same as the avenues of the Bois de Boulogne. If you are desirous of seeing all the monuments you had better secure the services of an at- tendant at the pavilion on the right of the main entrance. This will cost you at least three francs (sixty cents). Among the most -emarkable monuments, either on ac- count of their architectural beauty or the celebrity they commemorate, are, on the left of the principal avenue, those of Alfred de Musset (poet), Lenoir, Varin, Paul Baudry, and at the bottom of the avenue the monument to the dead. On the right, Ledru-Rollin, Cousin, Auber, Arago, Mouton. The Hebrew Cemetery is on the right of this avenue, and therein stands the famous monument of Abeilard and Heloise. At the grand cycle, that of Casimir Perier, father of the famous President of the French Republic who re- signed the position five years ago. Further on Talma (actor), Delille (poet), Boieldieu and Gretry (composer), etc. now TO SEE PARIS ALONE lOg The Crematory, on the right of the Transversal Avenue ^fo. 2, is undoubledly one of the most distinguished morbid .ttractian in the Pere Lachaise Cemetery. However, admis- sion to tlie crematory must first be obtained from the nanager of municipal affairs through an application in vriiing. One of the cuiiosities of Pere-Lachaise is the oven for rremation. Il is situated at the right of the transverse ave- lue No. 2, and visitors can be admitted to it only by per- iiission of the Director of Municipal Affairs, which must je sought by a letter worded and addressed as below, and nclosing a postage stamp for 15 centimes for a reply: Monsieur le Directeur. J'ai I'honneur de soUiciter una autorisation pour visiter e crematoire du Pere-Lachaise. Agree/.. Alonsieur le Directeur, avec mes remerciements. 'assurance de ma Iris haute et tres distinguee considera- tion. (Sign.) (Put address.) ( )n the envelope: Monsieur le Directeur des Affaires Municipales, Annexe est de I'Hptel de Ville, Rue Lobau 2, Paris. The Museums. There are almost as many museums in Paris as there are churches. Our plan will, therefore, be the same as at the begin- ning of this chapter. We shall point out the principal museums, those con- taining works which are considered masteroieces. and the galleries which one ought to see. We shall not attempt to enumerate them painting by painting, because if you wish to visit a museum in all its details and stop before every picture, the catalogue for sale on the spot -would be a much more valuable guide than space would permit us to make of this one. Still, it is necessary to know how to use the local catalogue after you get It, and we shall point out the most practical manner to do this as we come to each museum. I06 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE MUSEUM OF THE LOUVRE. As was said at the beginning of this chapter, it is not intended to rival either Boedelcer or Joanne, and hence the reader will not be taken, room by room, through the won- ders of sculpture and painting and before the masterpieces which have accumulated in the Louvre. We shall confine ourselves -to pointing out a practical plan of visiting this museum. The principal entrance of the Louvre, ro which a cabby will readily take you, is with- in the court of the Louvre, Place du Carrousel. The palace of the Louvre is divided inio two principal parts, the old and the new. If you speak French the best plan is to take a local guide, who in three or four hours will take you about among- the principal sculptures and paintings; but if you wish to make a thorough and detailed visit the best plan would be to devote several days to it, and rely on the catalogue, which can be had at the door for a franc. Nevertheless, for those who wish to devote only three or lour hours to the visit we will point out some canvases and some halls which one ought to see. The museum is open every day of the seven, excepting Monday and days of important festivals, from lo to 4. At the door wraps may be left or not, as preferred; it is perhaps better not to leave them, as one seldom goes out b}' the same door by which one went in. It is a good plan to wander at will through those vast collections, but it is a help to know that the ground floor is given up to sculpture. One flight up are found paintings, drawings ind sketches; two flights up a collection of marine objects, very interesting, but not so good as the one at the Invalides. My fellow authors discourage the employment of a local guide on the general ground that they, like the custodians, ..are badly informed. It is doubtless true that they know but little about Ru- bens or Raphael, but they know the way through the nu- merous galleries, and can guide you to different points, a matter of no small importance, for the distances are long in those immense halls; a walk through them is fatiguing and one easily loses oneself. There are two or three rooms in the Louvre worth}' of especial notice in sculpture, among others the Venus of Milo, the most celebrated statue in the world. It was found in 1820. It is thought to be the work of a contemporary of Praxiteles and Scopas. There is also the hall or room of Melpomene and that of Psyche. As to the Asiatic and also the Egyptian' HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ID/ intiquities I am of opinion that it is necessary to have nade a considerable study of those subjects in order to de- ■ive any particular satisfaction from a visit to those rooms. You might ask for the hall of modern sculpture; one of the landsomest of these rooms is that given to the works of Couston. The paintings, as has been said, are up one Hight, but a part of this t]oor is also occupied by the hall jf the jewels; among others the famous Regent diamond nay be seen here. The gallery of paintings proper is five-eighths of a mile ong; evidently it cannot be seen in five minutes, but a visitor, catalogue in hand, can go through it, and, as each picture is indicated by a number at the bottom of the frame and as a corresponding number is to be found in the pages of the catalogue opposite a description of the subject of the painting and the name of the artist, together with the date of the production of the painting, an intelligent glance at the whole can soon be had. The best known hall is the square one whose ceiling is so much admired by visitors. There are to be found works of Raphael, Rembrandt, Poussin, Titian, Van Dyck, Leonardo di Vinci — a great collection of notable painters. After that comes the large gallery, which will readily be pointed out to you, where the Italian, Spanish and Dutch schools have been collected, the paintings having been grouped together school by school. There is in par- ticular a Christ on the Cross, a Virgin with the Child, the Holy Family, the Virgin with the Scales, a St. John in the Desert, a Christ Crowned with Thorns, and, finally, in the center, a David Killing Goliath, a composition which has been much discussed. The Flemish and Dutch paint- ings predominate; to mention the most important would take too much space. The English and German schools are of relatively slight importance. The French gallery, on the contrary, is well filled. Rooms 14, 15, 16, and 18 are wholly taken up with French pictures. The jgallery of Apollo, rebuilt under Louis XIV., is unquestionably the finest hall in the Louvre. It takes its name from a picture by Lacroix, Apollo Conquering the Python. The hall Henry IV., although badly lighted, contains also some very fine paintings. The Louvre contains, moreover, col- lections of drawings, works of art, ceramics and a quan- tity of antiquities which might invite the curiosity of the visitor, but for all that a guide is useless, since each one can easily select for himself whatever pleases him without having the beauties of any particular work pointed out to him. io8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE MUSEUM OF THE LUXEMBOURG. This museum is open throughout the year, excepting on Mondays, from lo to 4, and is assuredly, next to the Louvre, the most complete that we have. The entrance is by the Rue of Vaugirard, at the corner of the gate to the Garden of the Luxembourg, where was formerly the Orangery. An attempt has been made there to represent THE CLUNY MUSEUM. the school of living artists; the works of painters and sculptors still living are to be found in large numbers; each artist, however, can have no more than three of his works in the gallery. It would be advisable here also to purchase an official catalogue, which will enable you, both for sculpture and paintings, to identify the work of the artist and also the subject of his composition. The Museum now TO SEE I'AKIS ALONE IO9 ut' the Luxembourg can be seen in two or three hours; therefore, we do not give many details of the works to be seen; the e.vc will easily direct you to the beauties of our young school; you will find in the sculptures a Falguiere which is certainly worth st)me moments of attention. Among the paintings Jean Paul Laurens, Jules Lefebvre, Alachard, Meissonier, Cabancl and many others are names which will sufticc to attract your attention. MUSEUM OF CLUNY. This museum, established in the old Hotel of Cluny, which yoti can see fiom the Boulevard Saint-Germain at the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel, is erected, it is said, on the site of an old Roman palace, of which a vestige, or rather some ruins, remain. It was called the Termes. The museum is open every day, except Monday, from II to 4. It contains ancient, artistic and industrial products of all sorts. Those fond of numismatics and lov- ers of antiquities will take great pleasure in long visits to this museum, but I think that the ordinary tourist, after having passed two or three hours in the hotel, will find his curiosity satisfied. The catalogue (4 francs) is in- dispensable here and leaving your wraps is obligatory, but there is no charge. One entering you find sculpture and works in wood; for that matter, the first two or three rooms arc devoted to objects of this sort. In the fourth you will find furniture, pieces of money and a mantel- piece of the sixteenth century, which is recognized of great value. In the fifth room, you will find some works of Ital- ian art, among them the Massacre of the Innocents, The Last Supper and the Worship of the Magi. The sixth room looks out on the Termes and the remains of the supposed Roman hotel. Up one flight you come to the tapestries, and, finally, in the ninth room, you find sledges, harnesses, etc. On this floor are also works in pottery and ivory, as well as things in iron, rare locks . and jewelry. MUSEUM CARNAYALET. This is the historic museum of the city. The complete history of Paris through the Revolution is here shown. It is open every day from 11 to 4. The deposit of your wraps is compulsory, but free of charge. It is useless to give details upon the contents of this museum for placards everywhere point to you the source from which the ob- PLAN DU JARDIN DES PLANTES A' 3.^.i.. . a.J.. PLAN OF THE GARDEN OF PLANTS 1 Brongniart Square, small pond in the middle. 2 Oxen from Indo-China. 3 Antelopes. 4 Wild Beasts, Lions, Panthers. 5 Physiology Laboratoiy. 6 StHgs, Does. 7 8 Diverse Animals. 9 Winter Houses of the Menagerie. 9 8 Diverse Buildings. 10 Birds of Prey, Vultures, Eagles. 11 Pheasantry. II A Reptiles, Serpents, Alligators. 12 Aviary. 13 Diverse Goats. 14 Diverse Antelopes. 15 Parrots and Diverse Aras. 16 Pond of Otanes. 17 Cedar of Lebanon. 18 Large Labyrinth 19 Small Labyrinth, Plants, Reservoir 20 Orange Walk. 20A Seed Beds. 21 Antelopes, Stags, Chamois. 22 Large Aviary, with pond. 23 Camels. 24 Herons. 25 Cranes. 26 27 28 Poultry, Fowls. 29 Zebras. 30 Diverse Goats. 31 Stags, 32 Large Stags. 33 Monkeys. 34 Peacocks. 35 Large Rotunda, Elephants, Cam- els and young Hippopotamus. 36 Chamois. 37 Hares of Patagonia. 38 bears. 39 Buffaloes. 40 Goats. 4 t Peacocks. 41 42 43 Ducks. 44 Diverse Animals. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I I I jects come. The sculptures on the front are worthy of notice; they represent the seasons and are attributed to Jean Goujon. lAIUSEUM OF ARTILLERY. In this museum are to be found, metliodically arranged all the changes which have occurred in weapons from the earliest times down to our day. It is situated in the Hotel of the Invalides. concerning which we give particulars on another page. There will be found a description of the mu- seum and the whole hotel. MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY OF THE GARDEN OF PLANTS. The Museum of Natural History belongs to the Jardin des PJantes; this gives rise at Paris to the habit of making no distinction between the two and of speaking of them indifferently under one or the other name. The Jardin des Pluntes has its prmcipal entrance Place Valhubert, almost opposite the old railway station of Orleans, a distant part of the city for. the foreign visitor. But if time does not fail you, this garden is certainly one of the sites of Paris most worthy to be seen. The best plan, if you intend to visit it. is to write, inclosing a postage stamp for 15 centimes for a reply, a letter worded as follows: A Monsieur le Directeur du Jardin des Plantes, Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, Paris. Monsieur le Directeur: J'ai I'honneur de soUiciter de votre amabilite une carte d'entree pour les differentes galeries, serres, menageries du Jardin des Plantes. Veuillez agreer, Monsieur le Directeur, avec tons mes remerciements. I'assurance de mes sentiments les plus dis- tingues. (Signature.) (.Address.) These tickets, which will be sent you by post without de- lay, will give you the right of entry to the garden on the days named on the cards; you might perhaps get along without these cards, but you run a risk, if you visit the garden without express permission, of finding yourself there on days when some parts are not open to the public uidess provided with cards. The garden itself apart from 112 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE the galleries is very interesting. The whole length of the promenades you will see, behind the cages which protect them and also you, animals of all countries. The notices placed aDO\ e the cages will tell you the names and source of origin of those animals. One can easily pass two or three hours there on a fine day. If you wish to follow the route laid down on the plan given in this book you will be able to take in the difierent curiosities assembled in this fine museum. To begin, entering by the Place Valhubert, yon pars by a sheet of water situated in the center of the square Brongniart; then, continuing, you see on your right cattle from India, antelopes, and on your left divers animals. Further along, on your right, you find the great animals of the cat family by the side of the laboratory of physiology, which itself adjoins the park for the deer and the goats; here we turn to the left to see successively the zebras, the fowls, the cage of the birds of prey, and after that the pheasants. Then we come along between the antelopes and the parrots, to stop for a moment before the basin con- taining the seals. If you like we can go as far as the small labyrinth, thence to the large labyrinth, and so through the magnificent flora as far as the orangery; then, retracing our steps after having passed the swans, we can resume our route before the park of antelopes; then, making the round among the chamois, we come to the place where are found the elephant, camel, white elephant, hippopotamus and dromedaries. After that the peacocks, and then we come opposite the monkey-house. Then we go back as far as the fowls to pass by the zebras and various other ani- mals, and thence go out, or direct our steps at pleasure toward the different museums which lie along the entrance. Smce we have come out of a museum where the animal reigns as the master, man being the most intelligent of animals, let us go into two museums where he is the. subject. MUSEUM DUPUYTREN. This museum, it may be said at the outset, can only in tcrest men, and then only such as are fond o* science. It deals in human infirmities; here all diseases have their history and the dissections which are shown here bring to your eye all forms of human misery. It is situated opposite the School of Medicine, and is open from lo to 4; to visit it nothing is needed excepting permission, which can be had at the ofifice of the Secretary of the School of Medicine opposite. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Il3 MUSEUM GREVIN. This second museum is gaj'er. Here arc to be found the celebrities in vogue. Ir is situated at No. lo Boulevard Montmartre, and is open from i o'clock in the afternoon to II. Tile price of admission is two francs during the week and on.e franc on Sunday. Every day from 3 to 6 and from 8 to 10 an excellent concert may be heard. Once within the museum you see a large hall, in which it is hard to distinguish the works of the artists who prepare these tigures from living people in llesh and bone. In the cor- ner, on the right, you will sec a representation of the opera, a general rehearsal at the French comedy, Coquelin, the elder, in the role of Cyrano de Bergerac; at the end an audience at the Vatican, a camp bed of Napoleon, with- out enumerating all the novelties which from day to day are introduced by the fertile mind of the manager. Down stairs there are other galleries; on one side that of the Revolution, and on the other that of crimes which end en the scaffold. There, above all, a catalogue to give you :he names of all these personages is indispensable. Be- ;ides tiie curiosities which I have mentioned the manage- ment of the museum has made a cabinet for X-rays, as well as a nice little theatre, accompanied by music, which plays every day from 3 to 6 and from 8 to 11. An excellent bar afTords refreshments as you look out on the winter garden. Public Buildings. Here more even than among the museums the author is obliged to restrain himself. There are at Paris so many beauties, from an architectural point of view, so many buildings lo which are attached souvenirs of glory or of bloodshed, so many edifices erected to genius, so many buildings under construction for the shelter of National en- terprises, that it is impossible here to give a description of them all. We shall confine ourselves to the most im- portant, stating the time at which they can be seen and the most practical way of employing that time advanta- geously. First, we will speak of that last resting place of the glories of the nation where lie Victor Hugo, Carnot and many others who have a place in history — that is the Pantheon. THE PANTHEON This monument, erected on the place bearing that name at the end of the Rue Soufflot, which was the name of the engineer who furnished the plans for the construction of THE I'ANTHKUN HOW TO SEE I'ARIS ALONE I I 5 the edifice, is visible every day, except Monday, from lo to 4. Tv.o sections of it can be seen only upon presentation of cards of entry, which must be asked for beforehand bv kUcr, inclosing a postage stamp of 15 centimes for a re- i)lv. This letter should be addressed to ^lonsieur I'Administratcur dcs Beaux-Arts, Rue de Valois. Paris. Alonsiciir I'Administrateur : J'ai I'honneur de solliciter de votre amabilite une carte pour nioi et personncs. nccessaire pour la visile du dome et des caveaux du Pantheon. Agreez, Monsieur I'Administrateur, avcc mes remcrcie- mcnts, Tassurance de ma tres distinguee consideration. (Address.) (Signature.) Once in possession of the card of admission, the visit can be made. From the foot of the staircase leading up to the 2Z columns which form the front we see, above those columns, a bas-relief made by David d'Angers, la Patrie, between la Liberte and I'liistoire crowning the geniuses, her chddren: Maleshcrbcs, Mirabeau, Monge, Fenelon, Manuel, Carnot, La Place, David, Cuvier, La Fayette, the hero of America; Voltaire, Rousseau, Bichat, then Bona- parte, at the head of his celebrated warriors; Hoche, Mar- ceau, Massena, Kleber, Davoust, etc., and then quite to the right the students and pupils of the Polytechnic School. Over head is the dome with its cross placed above th^ lantern and which has never been taken down. The cro^ is due to the fact that this nionumcnt, which dates from 1-64, was before the Revolution consecrated to religion, and it was only in 1791 that this inscription was put up, "Au\ Grands Hommes la Patrie Reconnaissante." Since thai time this monument has been twice devoted to re- ligion, and it was only in 1885, when the remains of Victor Hugo we-e interred there, that the monument became the temple which it is, a Pantheon, given up wholly to the mortal icmains of the geniuses of France. LES INVALIDES. The Hotel of the Invalides is open to the public every day from noon to 4 o'clock; but its museums are only only open Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from noon to 4, and the tomb of Napoleon Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. The best plan then is to select Tuesday o^ ii6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Thursday for a visit. This hotel, which can be seen from the Champ-Elysees across the extension of the bridge Alexander III., was built by Napoleon, or at least it was Napoleon who gave it its particular designation, which it still keeps, as an edifice serving as a home for old sol- diers. Plere also lie the remains of the great Emperor. The entrance is ornamented by a row of cannon, which are only fired on very important occasions; these are the very ones which thundered out in honor of the King oi Rome. There are three distinct things to be seen iT\ the THE INVALIDES hotel — the museums, properly speaking two in number; the church, and the tomb of the Emperor. One of these is the Museum of Artillery. You will find it opposite on th'^ right as you enter the principal door. You will see in the gallery of the Collection of Suits of Armor some belong- ing to royal personages, such as Henry II., Charles IX., Henry IV., Louis XIV. and the Duke of Bourgogne. These suits of armor are arranged in chronological order, while opposite them are the helmets, the shields and the trappings of the horses. Then in the gallery on the right HOW 10 SEE PARIS ALONE II7 will be found pieces of artillery dating from the origin of that weapon, and below each a card showing the soun;c of the piece. On the ground floor there is an Oriental hall, contaming a collection of firearms, dating from the in- vention of gunpowder. In the Cour de la Victoire is to he seen as you go out a Russian cannon taken at Sebastopol; the old pieces there come from some galleons which were sunk in 1701. The Museum of the Army is opposite the Museum of Artillery, and is of recent creation. There '.s hardly anything in it except some souvenirs of Turenne and of the first Republic. When you are in the large, square court, notice the military paintings which cover its walls. The tomb of the Emperor is closed at 4 o'clock exactly; in order to visit it go out of the large court by which you entered, turn to the left and behind the batteries of cannon which line the ditch you will find a veteran who will show you the way. The tomb comprises a circular platform, from which yon can look down on the sar- cophagus. The pavement is in mosaic and above are writ- ten the names of battlefields: Rivoli, Marengo, lena, Wa- gram, Austerlitz. All around the tomb you see the twelve figures symbolical of the twelve victories of the Emperor; there also are arranged trophies made of flags taken from the enemy. In coming out from the tomb you can take a look at the Church of the Invalides and go up into the dome. IxNSTITUT. The Institute, or Place of Reunion of the Immortals, is found at the end of the Bridge of the Arts, which unites it to the old Louvre. The most interesting thing is to hv present at a session. This monument contains several museums, very interesting, particularly to those fond of numismatics. HOTEL DE VILLE. In order to visit I'Hotel de Ville it is necessary to be provided with a special card, which is furnished by the secretary of I'Hotel de Ville itself. This must be asked for the (lay before. Provided with this card you can pre sent yourself about 2 in the afternoon, the hour noted o:i the card, under the gate on the left, where a keeper will accompany you (gratuity). He will take you first into' a large gallery, where are found two groups of marble that are very attractive; then he will take you up into the Hall des Fetes. Here was given the famous ball offered by the Il8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE City of Paris to the Russian oi-ficers on the occasion of their visit to the cit3^ The ceilings here were decorated by artists of the greatest talent, and the hall is a marvel of richness and luxury. It is 150 feet long by 40 feet wide; the ceiling represents Music and Dancing as seen down through the ages; Paris inviting the universe to its fes- tivities; flowers, perfumes, and in the vaulted sides of the ceiling you will see represented the old provinces of France, with their names written under them. Thence you will go into the large dining hall and into the Salon Lobau, on the side toward the quay. You will finish your visit by the South Salon, after having taken a look at the grand staircase of honor, which generally cannot be visited. CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES. In this hall, as in the Senate, the most interesting thing is to be present at a session; there is a public gallery, but it is necessary to get in so very early and there is so little room that it is better to invoke the services of your Consul or your Ambassador to get a card of entry. Besides the large hall where the deputies meet, you can, by applying to the keeper, visit the inner halls, of which the most re- markable is the Salon de la Paix. SENATE CHAMBER. The same observations apply to the Senate. If that body is not in session you will easily obtain permission to visit the large Salon. The Hall of the Pas-Perdus is the best known; you will be permitted to take a look at the library and your visit will end in the room on the ground floor which was occupied by Marie de Medicis. THE PALACE OF JUSTICE. In visiting the Palais de Justice one would do well to take in at the same time the Conciergerie and the Sainte- Chapelle. The Palais de Justice is open every day, and one can go into the room when the court is in session. The most interesting room is that of the Pas-Perdus. The criminal branch of the Court of Cassation, where, all the courts being united, the Dreyfus case was revised, is the handsomest one in the palace. On the side opposite the Court of Cassation are the Civil Court Rooms, which ex- tend up to the third story; if you happen to know some lawyer, that is the best way to visit the palace. In the in- terior of the palace the Sainte-Chapelle is located. It can HOW TO SEE PARIS ALUNE I IQ be seen eveij' day, except Monday and festival days, from II tt) 4. Il is here that the Messe Rouge is celebrated every year. The Sainte-Chapelle is really composed of two chapels, built one upon the other; the upper communicates directly with the court. The interior arrangement of this palace is very complicated. I would suggest to a-sk a keeper to point out the Sainte-Chapelle, and in front of the door of it you will find a man whose duty it is to show it. He will expect a gratuity. It remains to speak of the Conciergerie; this can only be visited by a card of entry, which is to be had at the Prefecture of Police; the best way is to write a letter, inclosing a postage stamp for reply, and asking the Director of Prisons for permission to enter, as follows. Monsieur Ic Directeur: Je vous serais tres oblige de vouloir bien me faire par- venir une carte me pcrmettant de visiter avec X.... (per- sonnes;, la partie historique de la Conciergerie. The "Conciergerie is made up of two parts absolutely distinct. The historical part is wholly different from that one to which visitors are not admitted, and where pris- oners of distinction are confined. Provided with your card of entry, you have only to present yourself before the massive gate on the quay almost on the corner of the Boulevard du Palais. A keeper will open for you; he will have you cross the small court, and you will find yourself in the large waiting room; there you will be shown the cell which was recently occupied by Deroulede and Marcel tiabert; it is below the level of the ground, feebly lighted during the day time and at night provided with a small jet of gas. which hardly permits the prisoners to read and which allows their keepers to watch them closely through the small opening in the door. You will be shown the cell where were confined Pierre Bonaparte at the time of the death of Victor Noir and the young prince. Duke of Orleans, at the time of the famous Gamelle. The cells formerly occupied by Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Saint- Just, Hebert and General Hoche have been torn down, but the cell where the unfortunate Marie Antoinette was con- fined is still to be seen. It communicates to-day with the cell of Robespierre, which itself gives access to the Hall' of the Girondins. This hall, as well as the cell of the mar- tyr Queen has been turned into the chapel. It was the Duke Decazes who, as Minister of Louis XVIII., ordered the conversion of this cell of Marie Antionette. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 121 STOCK EXCHANGE. The Stock Echange (La Bourse), a structure of hand- some external appearance, does not keep good its promise as far as concerns its interior. The only time when it is worth seeing is from noon to 3 o'clock, when the sales are in progress. In the center you see a part which is reserved for the use of the brokers and which the public cannot enter. Elsewhere in the building admission is free. ELYSEE. There is one more large monument which has not been mentioned, the Palace of the Elysee, the abode of the President of the Republic. But in order to visit this a spe- cial authority, very difticult to procure, is needed, and it is only during the season of the balls that those luxuri- ous salons can be visited; this can be done if one is invited, an invitation being very easily procured— simply by ask- ing for it. LIBRARIES. Paris contains a great number of libraries of various sorts, contributing in one way or anolhcr to education; there is, however, one library, the Bibliotheque Nationale, which is deserving of especial mention. It is situated in the Rue Richelieu, opposite the square Louvois; in order to go in it is necessary to be provided with a card of entry, either temporary or permanent, which is furnished upon a written demand addressed to the Secretary of the Bibliotheque Nationale. This card, however, only gives access to the working room and to the department of printed volumes; in order to have access to the manu- scripts especial permission is required. The Bibliotheque Nationale contains everything which has been printed in France and even in foreign countries. Besides this library you have the Bibliotheque Mazarine in the Institute and the Bibliotheque Sainte-Genevieve, Place du Pan- theon. It only remains to mention two special libraries, one of the Theatre Francais and the other of the Opera, both very rich in volumes and manuscripts pertaining to the stage. Besides the monuments of Paris properly con- sidered, there are a certain number of curiosities which, without being public edifices, are yet very interesting; as, for instance, the Observatory, the Gobelins, the Morgue, the Catacombs, the Sewers, les HaU.es and the Asylums for the Insane. 122 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE OBSERVATORY. L'Observatoire can be seen the first Saturday of each month; it is necessary to have permission, which can be obtained by a written request, inclosing a postage stamp, addressed to the Director of the Observatory. It is neces- sary to be at the main door at 2 o'clock precisely; you will be permitted to visit the astronomical museum, and you can look through the large telescopes at the celestial phenomena. GOBELINS. The factory of the Gobelins contains among other things a museum of tapestr}', which can be seen on Wednesdays and Saturdays from i to 3. The Gobelins is a National factory where carpels of great value are made. They are generally reproductions of pictures. In the process of manufacture they will show you different looms, and you can see them at work, while in the museum you can admire a collection of such products as you have just seen in process of manufacture, and which go back for hundreds of years. THE MORGUE. The Morgue is a place where there are always a great many inquisitive people. Is it the attraction of death? In any case this establishment was not built to satisfy idle curiosity, but to serve a public want. Here are kept the bodies of persons found in the public streets or elsewhere whose domicile is not known or whose identity cannot be established. Kept in a refrigerating apparatus which arrests decomposition and which preserves the integrity of the features, the bodies remain sometimes for weeks in expectation that some relative or friend or 'some other person may recognize or claim them. The Morgue is open for the public all day long. CATACOMBS. The Catacombs are a vast field where you can see noth- ing but skulls and skeletons; in order to visit them it is necessary to write, inclosing a postage stamp, to the Di- rector des Travaux, at the Hotel de Ville. Visits are per- mitted the first and third Saturday of each month; one should apply at 2 o'clock Place Denfert Rochereau, and provide oneself at the door with a candle, which costs 10 cents, for this place is underground. Formerly there were quarries here. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 123 SEWERS. To visit the sewers (les Egouts) it is necessary to send a written request, with a postage stamp, to the Prefect of the Seine, mentioning the number of persons; the place and the hour of the visit will be specified on the card Thanks to a small railway you can pass through some o the large sewers which exist underneath Paris. In case of bad weather, the trip does not come of?. HALLES. The market (Kalles), if one does not object to early ris- ing is a very interesthig place in Paris. The arrival of the supplies for the city at the market (Halles centra es) be- gins about 3 o'clock in the morning and ends only when the fish are sold of? by auction, about 6 o'clock. A great many people, after passing an evenmg, go to some small restaurant in vogue near the market and take a small repast while waiting the arrival of that enormous traffic which makes the circulation of carriages miposs.ble before 7 o'clock in the morning. There is also a small market in each quarter of the city, but these are not to be compared to the grand market. ASYLUMS FOR THE INSANE. For people of lively emotions a visit to Charenton or la Salpetriere mav be extremely curious. It is necessary for that purpose to write to one of the directors of the hospital which you desire to visit, and provided with that authority to present yourself to the janitor, who will accompany you. r^^^^=r^ CHAPTER VII. AMUSEMENTS AND ENJOYMENTS. I hold that Paris, of all cities, offers most distraction to the mind and the eye, but the very plethora of pleasure of- fered makes selection difficult, especially for the stranger, who must be warned not to be taken in by a highfalutin' name or a striking poster, nor should he mistake the Am- bigu for the Palais Royal if inclined to see a show "that is to laugh," this is to save annoyance to some paterfamilias who, with his daughter along, happens to be beguiled into a place devoted to the light-skirted muse, when a moral spectacle was his goal. To save the traveler from such mistakes, which mar his pleasure, I shall proceed as before and call his attention in a methodical way to all the places of anmsement of Paris. I shall describe the features of each and accompany my description with such advice as may help the traveler to enhance the enjoyment of his visit, and to drink the cup of pleasure without bitter after-taste. Theatres. Paris has about twenty-five establishments which are theatres; that is, places where only plays are performed, but out of this array there are scarcely more than seven- teen or eighteen which are really considered, as peo- ple of standing do not frequent the theatres of the "fau- bourgs." Among the theatres which are worthy of the name, four take the lead, viz.: The National theatres. Two of these are devoted solely to musical art, while the two others play only comedies, dramas or tragedies. These two houses are the temples of the masterpieces of French literature. THE COMEDIE-FRANCAISE (Place du Theatre-Frangais.) The institution of the Comedie-Frangaise dates back to 1680. Under Eouis XIV. the two companies of Mo'iere HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 12$ and of the Hotel de Bourgogne were consolidated. Hence the name "the House of Moliere," though the house is of a more recent origin than the institution, as it dates only from 1790. . The Comedie-Franqaise comprises within its repertory play's of the most divergent character. The classical works ot Moliere. Racine and CorneiUe imerchange with the comedies of modern Ule depicted by Sardou^ Em.le Augier Alexandre Dumas, Pailleron, Lavedan, Hervieu. This is the most Hterary theatre of Europe, and its head, Mr Jules Claretie, who presides at the deliberatn.ig meet- ings of this college of masters in the question of gwing access to its boards to dramatic works, has been admitted to be one of the Forty Immortals of the French Academy, the guardian of the beautiful French language, whose sole domain it is to judge of literary merit as sovereign ^°But the Comedie-Frangaise is not only the temple of French literature and art; it is also a drawing-room or meeting place of the select, using the epithet in the bes meaning of the word The elite of French society hll. nightly the boxes before which Talma, Mile. Mars, Sarah Bernhardt, played, and while their places on the classic boards are taken now by others, their successors have nothing to envy them. _ Before taking you into the house of Moliere. allow me to give you a few practical hints. This theatre is always crowded. There is rarely a seat unoccupied when the curtain rises, and it is. therefore, always well to secure tickets the day before or ^^ the day at the booking ofhce of the theatre, in the rue Richelieu, where you can always reserve a seat or a box upon pay- ment of 2 francs additional to the price. The good seats cost from 8 to 12 francs. Ladies are admitted to all seats, but they must wear no hats in the orchestra stalls. If you have not booked your seats beforehand and you arrive only at the beginning of the play, you may secvvre seats, if there are any left, at the ofEce at the en ry to the theatre rue Richelieu, but you should particularly beware of sidewalk ticket sellers, who ofTer here, as well as at all theatres, their tickets at great premiums over the box office pHces. and. moreover, these tickets are frequently of some other date, or they may even be counterfeits. - In the orchestra seats and in the boxes French people appear in evening dress. The men wear dress suits, or Pr nee Albert at least, and invariably a high hat or opera hat (of course, in the hand); the ladies wear reception /^/-' ''0 /'V;l; I M. SILVAIN Soci^taire de la Com^die Fran9aise. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 127 dress, with or without hats, but the -decolletee" gown is not the style at the Comedie-Frangaise. If you have followed my advice to secure your seat in advance, you go m by one of the entries at the Place du Theatre-Frangais, and you present your ticket at the check- ing oflicc. where the coupon is taken and you are ushered io vour place. Opposite this checking ollice, on cither side of the lobby through which you pass, are the seated marble statues ol two French classics who have left their masterpieces to the world. To the lelt is Corneille, Moliere to the right The manuscript of the "Precieuses Ridicules" reposes at Moliere's feet. If you follow the lobby, which runs into the brilliantly lighted half circle, you f^nd the bust of Pon- sard and further on that of Casimir Delavigne, which stand opposite the busts of A. de Vigny and M. J. Chenier. Before ascending the double staircase, before which the peristyle opens, a few steps forward, just behind the main ticket checking office, you meet three works of the sculp- tor's art which are considered as masterpieces; to the right. Mile. Mars, in her role in -The Misanthropist;" left. Ra- chel as Phed.e, and at the middle. Talma. Now you pass the main checking office and you are shown to your seat. The few moments before the curtam ri.es arc very profitably employed in a survey of the audi- torium, which is so gracefully arranged. The roomy proscenium boxes to the- left belong to the manager, while those on the right are reserved for the various Ministries. After devoting your attention for a few seconds to the gracefully light chandelier, which illuminates the whole theatre by itself, you will be attracted by tlie work of Mazerolle-s brush on the ceiling, representing France pre- senting laurel wreaths to Moliere, Corneille and Racme. Three strokes resound and the curtain rises, displaying ^uch stage setting of striking reality and exquisite taste as is almost a monopoly of the Comedie-Frangaise. Let nie now make you acquainted with some of the artists whom vou are about to applaud. While their names are universally known, you may, accidentally, not have the advantage of knowing one or the other, and in that case allow me to advise you to make haste in securing a seat when their names appear on the bill, as the advance sales will be large at the box office and you will regret to have missed the privilege of admiring those who have right- fully acquired the title of masters of the art theatrical. You all are familiar with one name. Coquclin Cad.t (Coquelin, Jr.), or familiarly known as Cadet for M. COQUKLIN CADET Societaire de la Comedie Fran9aisc HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 120 short. No comedy without him, no laughing success where he does not show his jovial, fine-cut features. He has been called the pet of the Parisians, and they cer- tainly could not bestow their favor to better advantage. Without him a Moliere. comedy would be hazy and dim. 1 1 is talents have brought him as a reward the cross of the Legion of Honor. Passing from comedy to tragedy, Mr. Mounet-Sully in- carnates marvellously the roles of Othello, Ruy Bias and the heavy dramatic parts of passion, wrath and fury, which need the master's touch and power. In character parts Sylvain claims your applause, an artist of rare talent. While his play is not as high-strung as Mounet's, he im- parts rare distinction to his characters, and if you have the opportunity to see him in Loui XL, you can appre- ciate him in a part in which he is perfection personified. While speaking of character pieces, we owe mention to cue who has always succeeded in doing marvels with the most ungrateful parts, Mr. Paul Mounet, brother of Mr. Viounet-Sully. Just a word about jovial Feraudy, who s incomparable in playing jolly old gentlemen, and about he distinguished Lcloir, as the Marquis in the "EfYrontes," or in "Mile, dc la Seigliere," or in Moliere's "L'Avare," which parts have been triumphs for the artist. We regret that but too rarely we have the opportunity to applaud Mr. Worms in his representation of heavy fathers, and Mr. Le Bragy, who is the very incarnation of the gentleman of fashion. Now let me introduce you to the ladies. First, Mile. Bartet, who has acquired the epithet, "the Divine," owing to her distinction, her bewitching voice and the perfection which she inculcates into all her roles. Mme. Worms- Barretta. the incarnate vision of the sweet, blond young girl, a poet's dream; then mirth, youth, laughter, a Dres- den Nippes figure. Mile. Muller, the ideal ingenue; fur- ther, a model of elegance. Mile. Brandes, who triumphs in roles of passion, vividly impersonating the jealous or passionate woman, always in dreams of the dressmaker's and milliner's art. Of course, we would not omit to in- troduce you to that charming artist who plays so success- fully the highly dramatic parts of the "woman with a post," Mile. M. Louise Marsy. Her success in "L'Avan- turiere" was well merited, and this lady's luck on the' turf may add zest to the acquaintance. After the curtain is down on the first act you have about ten minutes' intermission, in which you may pay a visit to the lobby of the public, while you will employ the MLLE. BARTET Societaire de la Comedie P'ran^aise. now TO SEE PARIS ALONE I3I intermission after the next act profitably witli a call at the artists' lobby, or greenroom. THE LOBBY OF THE PUBLIC*(i) From the auditorium you go to the tirst floor (balcony stalls and boxes), where a wide entrance, hung with red and gold draperies, leads to the landing of the grand marble staircase. You see two doors with mirrors on each side. One. the artists' door, is closed and guarded by a doorman; the other, opposite, is open and gives ac- cess to the public lobby. At the side of each door is a statue; the statue of Comedy stands at the artists' door and Trag- edy at the door of the public lobby. At tlve foot of the staircase is the little ladies' sitting room, in front of which, in the middle, stand the busts of Emile Augier and Alexandre Dumas, fils. This is only a landing, as the staircase divides and lands into the peristyle, from where you arrived. At the top of the two stairs and alongside of the busts in the middle are arranged the bust of Musset, to the right, opposite Balzac's bust; to the left and at the foot of the stairs are the busts of Dumas pere, Diderot and Ducis, to the left, and Dumas fils and Alme. de Girar- din to the left. We return to the lobby by the door opposite the artists' greenroom door. The first feature striking you on enter- ing into the grand salon is an enormous marble sculpture by Houdon. The master's chisel has attained perfection, and in this mask, full of fine satire and satirical finesse, everybody will recognize the overpoweringly lifelike fea- tures of Voltaire. This statue is flanked by two busts. One of them represents Voltaire at a younger epoch, the other Racine. At the rear of the lobby a vast white marble *(i) Just while this volume was under press the Come- die-Frangaise has become the prey of the devouring ele- ment of fire. The house of IMoliere, the ever welcome hoine of everything literary, is no more! The world at large — and the author in particular, who is indebted to the Manager for so many prdofs of good-will — have heard with awe of the terrible catastrophe which has demanded as a victim one of the youngest and prettiest women of the illustrious troupe. At the present we may hope, though, that within a short time the Comedie will have risen from the ashes, in a manner, as it lives in the memories of our youth, and we have, therefore, preferred to maintain this chapter, which, at least, depicts the Come- die as it was before the catastrophe and as it will be re- built. MLLE. BRANDES Societaire de la Com^die Fran9aise. '/U^^/J^^^^-^-^^^^^ HOW TO SEE TARIS ALONE 133 chimney occupies ilie greater part of the wainscot. Over the chimney is carved a woman wearing the Phrygian cap; the middle bears a large bas-relief rep- resenting the crowning of Aloliere by the artists of the Comedie-Francaise, as it takes place every year on Moliere's birthday after the performance of the "Malade Imaginaire," every party wearing the costume of the play. The ceiling is also worthy of more than a cursory glance; it represents a woman (Comedy) illuminating the world. All around the hall are the busts of authors. These are arranged facing each other, two by two, right and left, in the following manner: Rotrou, Regnard, Thomas Corneille, Destouches, Crebillon, Piron, Nivelle de la Chaussee, Riviere, du Freny. On the side opposite the door, through which you entered, a long lobby stretches. At the end we see a large work in marble by J. Clesinger, representing Georges Sand, and this corridor contains, furthermore, the busts of Carton d'Ancourt, Le Sage, J. B. Rousseau, Marivaux, Sedaine, du Belloy, Beaumar- chais. Scribe, Sandeau. The artists' lobby, the greenroom, is not public, and the doorman will only open it for the bearers of a pass from the Manager, or for such persons as one of the artists present has invited to call. In winter this greenroom is a veritable salon. On Tues- days and Thursdays in particular, these being subscription days, this greenroom is the rendezvous of all notabilities of Paris. You pass at first into a long gallery lined all along with busts and paintings; many pictures represent some scene from the repertory of the Comedie. Two doors face each other at the middle of the gallery; the door to the right leads to the stairs for the dressing-rooms of the artists, the other to the stage. At the end the gallery breaks to the right and leads to the greenroom proper, while passing through the little parody lobby, a curiosity itself. Near the door to the grand lobby another outlet leads on the right to the Administration landing, where we find a superb portrait of Rachel by Gerome, flanked by busts of Quinault and La Fontaine. The walls of the grand lobby are entirely covered with large paintings, portraits of members (societaires) since a long series of years. In the right corner is a very curious picture, in which all artists are depicted in theatrical cos- tume. In the centre thrones Mile. Mars, and the narrie of every artist in the canvas is inscribed on the frame. At the side of this canvas, between the busts of Samson and MLLE. YAHNE OJeon. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 135 Provost, is the statue of Didier Scveste, of the Comedie- Franqaise, who was mortally wounded at Buzenval on January 19th, 1871 Opposite the entrance door is a table with a show-case containing the Comedie's relics, as well as two books (form- erly the property of Miss Mars and Miss Rachel), some crowns, medallions and medals, the whole of a great value. THE ODEON (PLACE DE L'ODEON). In this instance I shall not reiterate the practical hints given on the head of the Comedie-Frangaise. It is al- ways well to secure theatre seats in advance. In the National theatres (those supported by the Government) dress-suits or Prince Alberts are required, and ladies are not allowed to wear hats in the orchestra seats. The Odeon is the second Theatre-Frangais. Its reper- tory is almost the same as at the Comedie-Frangaise, with some preponderance of the classics. For the artists the Odeon is generally the antechamber and stepping-stone to the Comedie-Frangaise, but at times this theatre en- gages at princely yearly salaries artists of great renown. Thus Mile. Yahne has given this year performances which attracted "tout Paris." Its boards were formerly the scene of triumph of that incomparable artist, Rejanc, who has gained the admiration of the world at large. t(i) The Lyrical National Tlieatres. THE OPERA (PLACE DE L'OPERA). As the Theatre-Frangais is the first dramatic theatre of the world, the Opera bears rightfully the rank of the first musical stage. Its public consists in the main of subscribers, and they affect a style of arriving by the middle of the performance and quitting before the fall of the curtain. The stranger will certainly not follow their example, because even if he should not be musical, he would never be sorry for an evening passed among the gorgeous setting, the finest singers of the universe and the elegant crowd of the audience. Although there may be a chance to find seats when the curtain rises, you should take no chances and engage seats two or three days in advance at the box office, Place de rOpera, corner of Rue Auber. fUJ Provisionally the Comedie-Frangaise has been transferred to the Odeon. y MLLE. ACKTE Opera HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 137 Prices of seats (in francs): Advance. Box Pit (parterre) 7 Orchestra scats 16 14 Amphitheatre seats 16 15 Proscenium boxes, seats 17 15 Side boxes, seats 16 14 First balcony, side boxes, seats.. 19 17 First balcony, front boxes, seats. . 19 17 First balcony, side boxes, seats.. 17 15 Second balcony, proscenium 16 14 Second balcony, front boxes, seats 16 14 Second balcony, side boxes, seats 12 lO Third balcony, proscenium 7 5 Third balcony, front boxes, seats 10 S Third balcony, side boxes, seats. . 7 5 Fourth balcony, proscenium.... 3 2 Fourth balc'ny, amphitheatre seats 3 2 fourth balcony, front boxes, seats 5 3 Office. 7 LOBBY OF THE OPERA The most desirable places for a visit to the Opera in company of a lady are the amphitheatre seats. Gentle- men by themselves prefer the orchestra and they like to avoid the neighborhood of the brass instruments and their din and noise. There are also stage-boxes, from which you can see the whole stage — business of scenery setting and shifting after the fall of the curtain. MLLE. CLEO DE MERODE de rOp^ra. now TO SEE TARIS ALONE I 39 Assuming that you have secured your seats in advance, we shall now enter this palace of marvels known as the Opera. Oi course you wear your dress suit, and ladies are in evening dress (no hat). The Opera was built by Architect Gamier; it was fin- ished ill 1S74. Supposing that you arrive in a cab, your conveyance will stop on the Place de I'Opera at the foot of the steps leading to the peristyle. If you arrived in a private turnout you stop at the rear entrance on Rue Meyerbeer. Be very precise in your orders to the coachman, when and where to be at hand for the return trip, or else you would risk to have a long wait in the crowd of private carriages. After passing through one of the double glass doors leading into the theatre we are in front of the monu- mental staircase, at each side of which is a control. This grand staircase, which is considered a marvel, leads us directly to the orchestra, and amphitheatre stalls form a vast circular gallery which runs all around the orchestra, amphitheatre and pit. Before entering the gallery leading to your seat, turn around for a moment and gaze at these thirty marble columns which reach from the first floor to the third and support the ceiling with its fresco decorations by Pils. The decorations represent the Gods of Olympus, Apollo on his chariot, the Edification of the Opera and the Triumph of Harmony. On the upper floor, where the two marble staircases meet after dividing from the orchestra on the grand stair- case, we find the first balcony boxes, which are on a level with the grand lobby and which you can see just in front at the top of the staircase. And now you hand your coupon to one of the numerous door openers (women) in the circular lobby, and she will show you to the vestiary, where you leave your cloak and receive a small numbered card to serve as your check when leaving (tip 15 to 20 sous). After being seated you can admire at ease the grandeur and beauty of the audi- torium. The ceiling, by Lenepven, representing the hours of the day and night, always hnds the strongest admira- tion, which is shared by the grand chandelier which illu- minates this vast space. If you f^nd yourself in company of a subscriber (who alone is entitled to access to the stage), you may accom- panv him to the dancers' lobby or greenroom, which is just' behind the stage off the auditorium. There, be- M.LLE. CHARLOTTE WYNS Opera Comique. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I4I sides the bevy of all-enchanting dancers, among whom Miles. Zambelli and Cleo de Merode may be mentioned as features, you will have occasion to admire the enormous mirror at the rear; it is ten metres high. Furthermore, the four panels by Boulanger, representing the celebrities of the dance, claim your attention. As we are on the stage, let me name you the principal artists: Messrs. Affre. Auguez, Alvarez, Renaud, and the ladies Breval, Ackte, Lucas. When you leave the opera take the grand staircase to the control, instead of going out by the Place de I'Opera, descend the few steps opposite the exit to the place, and you will be under the staircase, in the subscribers' pavi- lion, in front of a basin where rises Marcello's bronze Pythoness. A little further on you find Delaplanche's marble sculpture, the Incarnation of Music. Making your exit on the Rue Meyerbeer, you find the carnages waiting. THE OPERA-COMIQUE. This beautiful theatre of the Place Boi'eldieu, which was finished during the year 1898, and inaugurated on the 7th of December of that year, occupies exactly the place of the old building, which was destroyed by the terrible catastrophe, the memory of which is ineffaceable. But the house is much changed now. Gold and marble adorn the vast lobbies, and the numerous staircases and wide peristyles offer safety against the repetition of the mis- fortune which befell the old house. Before entering, let me repeat my recommendation to secure your seats in advance, here as everywhere, princi- pally during exhibition times. At the box office in the Rue Mari\aux >ou will find the advance sale office. Thurs- days and Saturdays dress suits for men and evening dress lor ladies (not decolletee) are prescribed. Our seats are engaged and we enter from the Place Boieldieu. Just before you, under a vast peristyle, opens the grand stair- case which ascends behind the two checking offices. To ihe right and left are two large stairs leading to the first balcony boxes. The few steps descending at each side of the central staircase lead to a vv'ide open space, which lets out on the one side into the Rue Marivaux and on the other side into the Rue Favart. We ascend the centra! staircase and observe the six beautiful columns which carry the building. This staircase takes us to the orches- tra. If we take the stairs to the right or left, we find M. LUCIEN FUGERE Op6ra Comique. (^^^fi^^ 4;^«^^ HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 143 at the foot ol the fornici a statue representing the tragic genius which at times pervades the Opera-Comique, and at the foot of the other stairs we see a Uiughing and Hght-skirted woman leadmg a wolf, a symbol of the gaiety with which Gallic art is imbued. The beautiful work in wrought iron and gold of the balusters and the pillars in rose, white and gray marble deserves our attention. The great entrance to the orches- tra, opposite the grand staircase, is flanked by two of these columns; right and left are two well managed ves- tiaries. We descend one of the two small stairs provided to the right and left, and we reach the peristyle of the first floor. We arrive at the hall, which precedes the lobby, into which the two stairs from the ground floor land. The stairs to the right lead to a vestibule decorated with works of Flameng's brush. On one side we see Athens and its Acropolis as a background for the antique chorus, the sacred origin of our songs, which, from sacred chants, be- came worldly. The other side is devoted to modern choreography. On a background of mountains, on the shore of an Alpine lake, we see the light platform where our ballet dances. The left hand staircase landing is decorated with paintings by Merson. He depicts in a purely rural scene the harmonies of nature gently touch- ing with light breath a nymph asleep, whom the ever- watchful Faun guards with eager eye. In another more real landscape the artist shows us a pretty mediaeval scene, a chorus of that period singing some ancient lay while dancing around a fountain. Tlie gallery, which serves as vestibule for the lobby, is decorated by the allegorical representations of Comedy, Song. Dance and Music. We glance admiringly at the two gilt balconies which issue on this vestibule; we look for a moment at the mosaics and the marble portico, and we enter the lobby. Two doors admit you, and opposite we see at once the three window-doors opening on an immense stone bal- cony, which we saw at the facade of the house. Place Boiel- dieu. Standing at one of these window-doors, we look up to the ceiling adorned with painted allegories of all em- ^ blems and symbols of the niany arts concurring in bring- ing out to bloom the fair flower of Comic Opera. Oppo- site from us, over the three doors, a great composition by Maignan attracts us. Music and Poesy, in a vast horizon showing to the left a village scene from one of our best known comic operas, and on the right another scene from MME. JANE HADING Gymnase. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I45 a comic opera, but by contrast the performers are all clad in the silken costumes of the city. This great canvas is surrounded by a series of medallions representing in pro- rile the masters whose works have shed glory on the house: Scribe, Sedaine, Favart, David, Masse, Delibcs, Mr. Car- valho and others. Now turn to the right and you will certainly be charmed with the delightful decoration of the beautiful marble and gold carved portico leading to the bufYet. This panel is by Gervex. It represents a street in some old town, where the classic scenes of pantomime, with Pantalon and Manon to the left and Columbine, Pierrot and Harlequin to the right, perform their grace- ful art with consummate skill. Starting into the buffet, or refreshment room, as we may call it, we may glance at the paintings of Toudouze. scenes of the Middle Ages, enlivened with decorative motives. We pass again through the full length of the lobby and we arrive at a charming little salon finished entirely in white enamel. This delightful little place is adorned by country scenes, into which Collin has instilled that float- ing vagueness of harmonies in nature which inspire the poet's and the artist's soul. Here, as at the buffet, do not fail to look into the mirror to obtain a full view of the principal composition. You will find in the mirror the perspective, which the spectator cannot obtain directly on account of the smallness of the place. It would be carrying coals to Newcastle to dwell upon the importance of the Opera-Comique for Paris. Every- body knows that comic opera enjoys in Paris a position which no other capital yields to it in such a measure. In return Paris demands the acme of perfection — and gets it. Strangers are always desirous to enjoy these perform- ances, which have become almost classical by tradition, the care devoted to their preparation, and the excellence of the artists, such as Mr. Lucien Fugere, Mme. Char- lotte Wyns, whose portrait we present to our readers. These artists are but specimens of a company in which excellence, mastery, zeal and artistic superiority are ac- cepted conditions. Next in line after the National Theatres come the so- called Boulevard Theatres. We mention at the top of the list the two theatres which are pre-eminently frequented by' the beau monde, the Vaudeville and the Gymnase. These theatres were combined up to June, 1899. under the management of Messrs. Chautard and Porel, but they are run independently now. -sTsm^l MME. REJANE (VAUDEVILLE) HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 147 THE GYxMNASE (BOULEVARD BONNE-NOU- VELLE. This was called formerly the Theatre de Madame, and somehow it has kept the aristocratic mien of the olden days. It is par excellence the theatre of the "chic" world. You see the people as if they had stepped out of a bandbox, and the same styles prevail as at the Comedie- Frangaise. The Gymnase has been the birthplace of many re- sounding reputations. It was the cradle of the popularity of a Scribe, a Dumas fils, a Sardou, a Meilhac, of Claretie, of Daudet. I cannot say much of the company at this moment, as I do not know how it will be composed, but I have been assured that Huguenet, who has achieved such brilliant triumph in "Marraine," will remain the main- stay of the new company, and that j\Ille. Yahne would come, too, from the Odeon. It is certain, therefore, that the ensemble will not be in- ferior to that which has achieved runs of plays by the hundred nights on the boards of the Gymnase. *(i) THE VAUDEVILLE (BOULEVARD DES CAPU- CINES. At the head of the Vaudeville two names attract us at once as a guaranty of success: First, the director's, Mr. Porel, with twenty years' theatrical experience and al- ways growing success in the alternate management of the Odeon, the Gymnase, and the Vaudeville for the last three years; and, by the side of him, that powerful artist known and admired in both worlds, the heroine of "Madame San^- Gene," "Amoureuse," "Lysistrata," Mme. Rejane, whose name and fame echo in every country. In her company we find such names as: Mmes. Cecile Caron, Avril, etc., and Messrs. Lerand. Numes, Gauthier. THE VARIETES (BOULEVARD MONTMARTRE). Here we leave behind us absolutely the serious character piece or drama. We enter upon the field of the worldly, the gay world of the gayest city of the world. If you leave prudish ideas at the door and wish to enjoy a hearty laugh at plays and situations that "are to laugh," even if *(i)The Odeon is provisionally transferred to the Gym- nase, as the Coniedie-Franqaise was transferred provi.s- ionally to the Odeon. MLLE. LENDER Vari^t6s HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 49 they are slightly "yellow," you will be indebted to the Varietes for a pleasant evening. At this theatre the jol- liest, liveliest and most rollicking creations interchange with the sprucest, nimblest and cleverest reviews and ex- travaganzas, wherein the eye celebrates a carnival of kaleid- oscopic enjoyment, feasting on pretty faces and revealing costumes, as this theatre glories in the most delightful comediennes and the prettiest girls of Paris. Just a few names at haphazard: Jeanne Granier, Lucy Gerard, Mar- celle Lender, Lavalliere, Gallois, Emilienne d'Alen^on, Suzanne Derval. etc.. etc.. supported by such comics of old established fame as Baron, Brasseur, Lassouche, Guy, Prince. Emile Petit, etc., etc. THE PORTE SAINT-MARTIN (BOULEVARD SAINT-MARTIN). Everybody has heard the name of this theatre in the last two years, where Coquelin rules m both capacities of di- rector and actor, and where he gave to the world his im- morlal creation of Cyrano de Bergerac. This theatre has played "La Tosca" with Sarah Bern- hardt, then spectacular plays of Jules Verne, like "Around the World in Eighty Days," etc., and it devotes itself now, with Coquelin, Sr., at its head, almost exclusively to the drama, often to historical pieces, but always offering thrilling interest in plays of passion and loiuance, which, it is needless to say, are performed in a manner that is the pinnacle of perfection. Coquelin's son, Jean Coquelin, supports his father, and it happens that the son takes the father's part in a play quite suddenly when occasion of- fers, and he always proves a true chip of the old block, though it is no easy matter to compete successfully with the creator of a part on his own ground, but the case of Coquelin vs, Coquelin is fought on strictly meritorious grounds. THE AMBIGU. While on the subject of the drama, we will speak right now of this theatre, which, makes a specialty of it, or, rather, melodrama. If yoti like a good cry you will get it to your heart's content at this place. The Ambigu has cultivated the specialty of the popular drama, and it prides itself on the magnificence of the costumes and settings. Even if you only wish to enjoy a feast of color and mag nificence, a visit will amply pay you. M. COQUELIN C- Co 1 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I 5' THE THEATRE DE LA REPUBLIQUE. THEATRE LYRIQUE. (Place de la Republique.) The management and the company of the lyric theatre of the Renaissance have transplanted themselves to this house, where they continue their artistic performances of old style comic operas with such singers as Mr. Soulacroix and Mile. Parentani. The excellent orchestra is under the baton of Mr. Jules Dambe. And now let us pass to the gay theatres, the true Paris- ian and Boulevard houses, where we can go without the rigors of evening dress, just as we come from a well en- joyed dinner ready for a good laugh for the two hours of the play, where the jolly mummers make you forget the outside world and make you a better man. as a laughmg man knows no harm. THE THEATRE DE LA RENAISSANCE. (Boulevard Saint-Martin.) This theatre is a neighbor of the Porte Saint-Martin. After many changes it became, up to two years ago. the Theatre Sarah Bernhardt; then it was called the Theatre Lyrique and now it is the home of operetta, under the direction of Lagoanere and Biana Duhamel, where such artists as Messrs. Smaon Max, Piccaluga. WolfY and Mmes. Biana Duhamel. de Ternoy. M. Dufay, etc., offer always a guaranty of a strong, artistic, enjoyable and even mem- orable performance. Mme. Biana Duhamel merits your special admiration. While her personal charms will cap- tivate the public easily, this artist needs certainly not to depend upon the charm of personal appearance only. Art. temperament and a beautiful, thoroughly well trained voice make a combination which is rarely equaled, but never ex- celled If you add to this already unconquerable array of strong points, brilliant costumes and that gift of the gods, uue Parisian chic and vivacity, it becomes almost an "embarras de richesse." THE NOUVEAUTES. This theatre is just amid the boulevard, and you will have to secure your seats always in advance. Mr Michaud has been very lucky for a few years in striking only roaring successes. His plays enjoy runs of_ 200 to 300 performances, as -The Girl from Maxim s. which has been played for more than six months at the time of this writing. MME. CASSIVE Nouveaut^s HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 153 The company consists of Messrs. Germain. Colombey, Torin, Landrin. Coquet, etc., and Mnies. Cassive, Burty, Cavell, iMaurel, etc.. etc. This troup gives every night by nine o'clock a jolly, rollicking and rather catchy per- formance, the plays being light, of thoroughly Parisian hue, and if >ou do not know what to do with yourself for the evening, when you are on the boulevard, follow the Parisians and buy two hours' worth of laughter and jollity at the box ofifice of the Nouveautes. THE BOUFFES PARISIENS. This is a family theatre near the boulevard, from where it can be seen. Its domain is comic operas, operas boufifes and operettas. Here such celebrated successes as "Mas- cotte" and "Miss Helyett" were performed, and in former days it was the home of Offenbach's hilarious hits. The company consists this year of Messrs. Jean Perier, Reg- nard, Brunais, Maurice Lamy, etc., and Mmes. Mariette Sully, Tarial-Bauge, Alice Bonheur, Leonie Laporte, Vig- ouroux, elc. FOLIES DRAMATIQUES. (Rue de Bondy, Place de la Republique.) After referring to this theatre, where the most success- ful operettas had their run, such as "La Fille de Madame Angot," "Les Cloches de Corneville" (the "Chimes of Normandy"), "Les 28 Jours de Clariette," and which, since a few months, has started upon a new life as a popular lyric theatre at popular prices under the manage- ment of Mr. Campo-Cassae, we have finished with the boulevard theatres proper. But there still remain four big theatres to be mentioned which, while not on the boule- vards, yet belong in the category of the great Paris theatres. Honor to whom honor is due. Let us mention a name to conjure with, a name which no stranger ig- nores, that of the great artist who personally manages the THEATRE SARAH-BERNHARDT. (Place du Chatelet.) After several years' performances at the Renaissance, which she had chosen, Sarah Bernhardt has planted her victorious standard since last year at this house, where all strangers within the gates of the City of Splendor, who have seen Sarah Bernhardt at their home, will want to see her at her home. Besides the new pieces which she brings out with a company chosen by her with the eye of an artist MLLE. BIANA DUHAMEL Directress of the Th^tre de la Renaissance. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 155 and directress, Sarah Bernhardt will play regularly her repertory, and when she appears, as she did about three months ago, in "La Dame aux Camelias" ("Camille"), she revives the triumphs of old and proves, as ever, her . true title to the laurels of "the" tragedienne. This year she plays "L'Aiglon," by the celebrated author of "Cyrano de Bergerac" — Rostand. One of the curiosities of the theatre is the decoration of the auditorium in ivory and gold, the work of the great artist herself. CHATELET. This theatre, located opposite the former, plays a quite difterent line. It has been the cradle of spectacular plays, as "Michel StrogotT,'' "Around the World," "Poudre de Perlinpinpin," "Robinson Crusoe." You must not look there for great emotions. If you want to feast your eyes, or if you want to see the wonders of stage mechanism •'hich make the most incredible marvels an almost tangi- jle reality, you will be amply rewarded by a visit. It is a paradise for the children and a joy to their elders. The spectacular holds sway in this vast theatre, where you may take children and young girls without hesitation. The gigantic masses, the sumptuous stage decorations, the pomp of costumes and the glitter and glamour of the marvelous bewitch and bewilder. Mme. Marguerite Ugalde is the charming particular star of the Chatelet. GAIETE. This theatre is run on somewhat similar lines as the former, only here the spectacular is combined with oper- etta, and the chansonette and the topical song play a much more prominent part. The orchestra is first class. We cannot close our list of the principal theatres without referring to the one which, while ofif the beaten path, is one of the most enjoyable. THE PALAIS ROYAL (RUE MONTPENSIER). There the celebrated Dejazet played, and it is certainly the gayest theatre of Paris. Here we have a quickfire of jollity, and though the frolic may be a little "ofT color" at times, it will never be rude nor lack spirit. While Mrs. Grundy gets more than a dig in the ribs, everything is done with so much drollery by artists like Messrs. Raimond, Boisselot, Lanny and Mmes. Theirel, Legrand, that you cannot reproach yourself. You will laugh and for- give, as a laughing man can't be angry. MME. MARGUERITE UGALDE now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 157 Besides the principal theatres there are the so-called little theatres which are nearly always crowded. There 30U may also enjoy a good laugh, but the plays are often mure than "off color." For instance, the Dejazet, Boule- vaid du Temple, plays the gross farces, comedies of error, etc., while CLUNY (SQUARE DE CLUNY). which played the famous piece, which has been around the world, "Trois Femmes Pour un Alari," is the pet iheatre of the students, who are not readily shocked. Moreover, Paris has any quantity of small halls and thea- tres in the various quarters, and space does not allow me to mention them here. I shall only mention two little halls, because they are particularly freciuented by the select public. ATHExNEE-COMIQUE. This is a very neat theatre, in the Rue Boudreau, where the director brings out comedies and vaudevilles written mostly by young authors, whom he pilots to success. This little house is but a hundred yards from the Opera. THEATRE-ANTOINE. This IS strictly devoted to young authors and to the materialistic school. The director, Antoine, who is him- self an actor, has earned an enviable reptitation by the success of his special method and his acting. In conclusion I must not omit to mention the Theatre d'Application (18 Rue Saint-Lazare). where classical per- formances are given by the pupils of the Conservatory. Besides lectures are delivered by foremost men of letters on dramatic issues, and these lectures are illustrated by great Paris artists, who recite or play fragments of the plays lectured upon. Moreover, this theatre arranges fre- quent exhibits in the galleries. Concerts. What has been said of theatres is valid of concerts as well. Paris has concerts in plenty, but there are three reg- ular concerts which count as regular occurrences with the "•reat musical public of Paris. 158 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE THE CONCERTS OF THE CONSERVATORY Take place every Sunday from November to April in the auditorium of the Conservatory. Under the direction oi the orchestra leader, Taffanel, classical music is executed in a perfect manner, Beethoven's symphonic immortal creations taking a favorite rank with both artists and pub- lic. On the evening of Good Friday a sacred concert is given, which is strongly frequented. The public at these concerts consist almost exclusively of subscribers, but seats can be had before the concert (at 1.30 p. m.) at the janitor's of the Conservatory, 2 Rue du Conservatoire. CONCERTS COLONNE. They bear this name after the orchestra leader and director. These concerts take place from October to April inclusive: 1. At the Theatre du Chatelet, on Sundays from 2 to 5 p. m. Symphony music, soloist and chorus. Ordinary prices of seats vary from 10 francs to i franc. 2. At the Nouveau-Theatre, 15 Rue Blanche, on Thurs- days, from 3 to 5 p. m. Music of smaller scope than per- formed at the Chatelet. The programme is divided into two parts, old and new music. Price of seats from 6 francs to I franc. The Colonne concerts ofifer a truly royal artistic treat to music lovers on account of their perfection of execution and their variety of programme. CONCERTS LAMOUREUX. The Societe des Concerts Lamoureux gives every Sun- day at 2.30 p. m. and often Thursdays at 4 p. m., from Oc- tober to May, a concert, in wkich the classics are rendered in a thoroughly perfect manner. These concerts take place at the Theatre de la Republique. Since the death of Mr. Lamoureux his son-in-law, Mr. Chevillard, has assurned the baton of this world-renowned orchestra. The price of tickets ranges from 8 francs to 2 francs. THE AUDITIONS MUSICALES. During the Exposition the Societe des Concerts will be the official orchestra, under the leadership of Mr. Tafifanel and a series of musical programmes will be performed, in which the most striking epochs of French music will be executed. The programme will also contain works which HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I 59 are hitherto unpublished, and it is intended to give an idea oi the general history of French national music from its origin to date. ■,,11 The French and foreign musical societies will also he heard. .,, Finally national and international prize competitions will be arranged between singing societies and string and brass The Circuses. These are less in number than theatres; there are four only one is not even quite ready. The one being bu.lt will be rather on the plan of a theatre auditorium than a circus. THE CIRQUE D'HIVER (Winter Circus). Place des Filles du Calvaire. This is the oldest circus of Paris, and it has maintained the old traditions of the sawdust ring, clowns who make you laugh, horses trained in liberty, the short-skirted bare- back rider, the hoops, the spangles, the trapeze performers, tumblers and all the paraphernalia to which we were ac- customed in our youth, only the peanuts and red lemonade are lacking The performances close with an equestrian pantomime, battle-scenes, etc. Lion-tamers, athletes, male and female, display themselves at intervals. The cir- cus is ordinarily open from November to May. THE CIRQUE PALACE. At the meet or round point of the Champs-Elysees, on the site of the old Cirque d'Ete. This circus opens June 1st and will remain open during the whole of the year. Its predecessor used to be closed during the Winter months. It will make a specialty of a mixed spectacle, half circus. half theatre. Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, male and female riders will represent the circus part, and highly spectacular ballets will cater to the lovers of the terpsichorean art. A tank of 100 square metres is provided for swimming and diving performances. NOUVEAU-CIRQUE. This is the acme of elegance, the meeting place of the world of fashion. For these ultra-fashionable people who meet at the races, on f\rst nights at the theatres, and wher- l60 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ever fashion congregates, there is one day of meeting one another which they would not miss for anything, the Sat- urday at the Nouveau-Cirque. This circus gives most performances. During the Expo- sition two performances take place daily, a matinee at 2.30 p. m., and an evening show at 8.30 p. m. Of course, the world of Parisian high rollers visit in the evening. They have made the light promenade-walk their stamping ground, while the seats at the base of the ring are reserved for the people who come to be distracted by the show proper. Besides the equestrian and other at- tractions which make up the first part of the programme, which changes constantly, the second part consists of a pantomime in two or three tableaux, and it is certainly a most curious spectacle to see this ring, where a few mo- ments ago horses cavorted and galloped, converted into an enormous tank, in which skifYs and male and female swimmers cut the water in motley array and crowd. THE CIRQUE MEDRANO. On the outer boulevards we have a circus which ir scarcely a year old in Paris, but which has a good promise: of success. Mr. Medrano, who directs this circus, was the public's favorite at the Nouveau-Cirque some years ago and he has remained a favorite in his new undertaking. Music Halls. Paris has many places which are frequented both by everybody out for a lark or entertainment. The demi- monde is represented in strong array, and so these places are certainly no family resorts; but the stranger generally jnakes their acquaintance soon and likes to improve the acquaintance. THE FOLIES-BERGERE {32 Rue Richer). The Folies-Bergere is the establishment best known by the stranger. To him it is the incarnation of Paris gay life, and he does not tarry long before he studies its phases. The public is very mixed, though elegant. Tlie prome- nade is frequented just as much as the auditorium, and it offers as much attraction to the many as the fine ballets on the stage. After dinner, it is quite the custom to smoke your cigar in the promenade of the Folies-Bergere. The uniform price of admission of 2 francs is certainly extreme- Iv moderate. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE l6l OLYMPIA (24 Boulevard des Capucines). Under the management of the Isola Brothers, who have rcuiodelled this elegant music hall entirely. Here the pub- lic is more unalloyed. The frail sisterhood comes here ony three times a week. The programme is brilliant; be- sides the features of a high-grade variety performance there are always grand ballets. Engagements for 1900: Little Tich, the Craigs, Scb.aeter, Emilienne d'AIengon, Suzanne Derval, etc.. etc. CASINO DE PARIS. The Casino de Pans has made an enormous success with- in the last years with the male public. This is due to the I)retty faces which smile everywhere in the immense hall. It you go there by about 10 p. m.. you will find the 500 tables occupied by a crowd of people taking refreshments and taking in the attractions of the stage and feasting their eyes on the most talked of beauties of Paris in the audience. The entrances to the Casino de Paris are at the corner of Rue Blanche and Rue Clichy. THE JARDIN DE PARIS (Champs-Elysees, left side). The Jardin de Paris is a marvel of gaiety, freshness and taste, exquisitely set of¥ by the large rich-foliaged trees. It is admirably located just alongside the monumental door of the Exposition at the entrance of the Champs-Elysees This is the favorite place of the Parisian world of high rol lers, where you may see every night the most noted au'J notorious recruits in the army of Cythera. Tlie concerts and the various attractions spread over the garden and the vast crypt are the delight of the Tout-Paris, which likes to enjoy itself, and of the strangers who visit the City of Pleasure when on pleasure bent. THE PALAIS DE GLACE (Ice Palace). Champs-Elysees, left side. Beautiful rink for skating on real ice. Closed during the Summer. Will reopen on September ist next. Exhibitions are given here by professional male and fe- male skaters, all of first rank. THE MOULIN ROUGE. This is the olace to dance or gaze at the whirl of the quadrilles which are danced in a manner that defies de- scription. The old adage, "Mnst be seen to he appreci- l62 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ated," holds good here more than ever. Of course, you who enter here leave all your prudish scruples behind, as these night festivals are rather festive; they are things of beauty, but not a joy forever — very gay, but terribly mixed. Cafes- Concerts. These are establishments where you take refreshments, and where you can smoke in the auditorium. PARISIANA {2"] Boulevard Poissonniere.) Risky songs, little scenes, vaudevilles, reviews hold the boards, a little of everything. The names of the authors of these extravaganzas are always sure of the success of gaiety and laughter which the Parisian loves. At present Courte- line, Tristan Bernard, P.-L. Flers hold the boards with their extravaganza, Qut Complote? which is a worthy suc- cessor as a mirthmaker of their former successes in Ohe Venus! A nous les femnies! The gaiety of these plays finds a fine foil in the delightful hall, where we can admire night by night such charmers as Mme. Mealy, Anna Tlii- bault, Therese d'Orgena. Marville, Paquerette, etc., and many others too numerous to mention. In Summer the following play with equal measure of success: : LES AMBASSADEURS (Champs-Elysees, right side). This is a restaurant where first-class service and cuisine prevail. There is an open-air concert in Summer, open in May and closing in September. Matinees on Thursdays and Sundays. At night the concert is crowded and the attractions are great: Yvette Guilbert, Gabrielle Sylvane, Laurence Deschamps, Raiter, Lejal, the Fleury Reyband, Trio La Serenada, Brothers Artois, etc. Just alongside is the ALCAZAR D'ETE (Champs-Elysees, right side). Is a Summer garden and popular restaurant, where at the evening performances and Sunday matinees Polin, Maurel, la belle Otero, Varly, the Raphael Colombel, the Toulouse Troubadours, etc., delight their audiences. Next we mention the HOW TO SEE I'ARIS ALONE 163 DIVAN JAPONAIS (75 Rue des Martyrs). (Telephone 5^3-/4), where the poet Gaston Haberkorn re- cites personally his chansons sensuelles. Here Yvette Guilbert, Therese d'Orgeval and other artists, who are cel- ebrated to-day, made their first appearances. The Divan japonais opens every evening, with a matinee on every Sunday, at 2 p. m. TflE SCALA (13 Boulevard de Strasbourg). Here the programme changes constantly, one novelty rushes the other, and the reviews and extravaganzas played are always amusing and a feast to the eye. Montmartre. It has been the fashion of Paris by night and the people who like a gay life to meander from the beaten path of the boulevards after the theatre to Montmartre, where often night is turned into day until the wee sma' hours of the morning This part of Paris, which lives at night, is called for short the Butte (the hillj. Here we find almost nothing but miniature theatres, tiny stages, where young authors have their plays performed or recite their own verse. These youngsters have but slight fear of censure. and this ought to give you a hint that the emanations of their unbridled brain are rather loose, and that you should leave your scruples at home, if you want to enjoy this at- mosphere without blush or shock. The theatres are in- terspersed with small restaurants, where suppers are served up to the hours when sedate people rise. At the head of these little bonbon-boes, with the sweet- ness left out, we will mention THE TRETEAU DE TABARIN (58 Rue Pigalle). Every night at 9.30. The most select and amusing board of Montmartre. Here Fursy and the best mirthmakers of the Butte sing their creations. ''Then we have the CARILLON, which possesses an ex- cellent olio of comics, headed by the director, Millanvoye. We may still mention the 164 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE GRAND GUIGNOL (Rue Ballu), where only ultra-realistic pieces are played; further the CONSERVATOIRE DE MONTMARTRE and its Shad- ow Theatre, the CABARET DU NEANT, a sinister dis- traction, which might give the creeps to sensitive natures, etc. There are many other so-called "music-boxes," but we are loath to delve further into these establishments, where the spirit of levity runs -very near to or even over- steps the border-line of license. We shall confine ourselves to mention the few restaur- ants where one sups as a rule when the humor has taken one to make a trip to the "Hill;" L'Abbaye de Theleme, Le Rat Mort, Le Pere Lathuile. The Circles or Clubs. With regard to these we must make a division into two distinct categories, viz.: the cercles or clubs, as we will call them henceforth, which are absolutely closed; that is, where admission is very difficult to obtain, and those where you may be received as a member on simple application after a couple of days. The club in France offers a double advantage; aside of the attraction of the gaming-table (baccarat, ecarte, etc.) you find there carriage accommo- dation, passes to theatres, and— a boon in itself— very good meals at very reasonable prices. Among the clubs, which we designated as closed, we mention at the head of the list THE JOCKEY (i Rue Scribe). This is the meet of all turfmen and sportsmen of distinc- tion; it is a characteristic club of rich men only. Stran- gers can be admitted as temporary members for a term of four months upon payment of 200 francs. They are subject 10 the same rules as the permanent club-members, and are elected by ballot, which takes place every Saturday within the period of January ist to June 30th. CERCLE DE LA RUE ROYALE (i Rue Royale). This is also one of the most exclusively closed clubs, even to strangers, who must be presented by two permanent members, one of them to belong to the candidate's nation- ality; and they cannot be admitted for less than three months.**' The admission is subject to ballot, and the ad- mission fee amounts to 216 francs. HOW TO SRE PARIS ALONE 1 65 CERCLE DES CHEMINS DE FER. {22 Rue de la Michodiere.) In accordance with Article 7 of the By-Laws candidates for temporary membership must be presented by two per- manent members of the club, and their names, together with the names of their sponsors, remain posted during five days before the ballot. Only committee members can vote. Six members must partake in the vote. One black ball ofifsets three white ones. Strangers can be admitted as temporary members for a term not to exceed three months. In the cercles or clubs which we will call the open ones admission is much easier. We mention the following: CERCLE DES CAPUCINES. 6 Boulevard des Capucines. CERCLE ANGLAIS, 3 Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin. CERCLE DE L'ESCRIAIE. 9 Rue Taitbout. CERCLE CENTRAL DES LETTRES ET DES ARTS, 36 Rue Vivienne. CERCLE DE NEUILLY. Periodical Eiitertaiiiineiits. In Paris, as in all large cities, certain entertainments and celebrations occur at stated intervals, and all these will be more brilliant than ever at the present Exposition time. We will only mention the principal events: THE CONCOURS HIPPIQUE (Horse-Show). The Concours Hippique de Paris, which is organized every year by the Societe Hippique Frangaise, will come ofif with special pomp in the inner court of the Ecole de Guerre (War Academy). It will only last fifteen days, from the i2th to the 28th of May, and this will be succeeded by an international horse-show from May 28th to June 2d. A personal card of admission must be taken for the whole duration of the horse-show, and this card entitles you to a seat on the reserved stands, otherwise you will have to pay five francs at the entrance turnstiles. THE SALONS. This is the name by which the exhibitions of paintings and sculpture are known, which are organized every year by the Societe des Artistes Frangais and the Society of the l66 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Champ-de-Mars, the latter being a offshoot of the Societe des Artistes Frangais, from which it separated a few years ago. The two exhibitions take place in the same place, and both comprise everything that the artistic year has yielded of real merit, both in canvas or sculpture. The day of days for visiting the Salon, when the ladies arrive in their brightest apparel in the most stylish turnouts, and where all Parisian notabilitieii meet, is undoubtedly the opening day of the Salon, the "vernissage." Admission can be had by invitation of the artists or by paying lo francs. The Salon remains open for thirty days, and the price of admission is I franc, except on Fridays, when it is 5 francs. Even if you should wish to examine only per- functorily the majority of the canvasses, you need three or four hours. As a rule, people visit the Salon several times. This year it is at the Avenue de Breteuil. THE BENCH SHOW (EXPOSITION CANINE). The International Bench Show is organized by the Central Society for the Improvement of French Breeds of Dogs, and takes place every year from May 20th to 28th on the terrace of the Orangery of the Tuileries. It is the most important exhibition of the kind on the continent of Europe. From 1,400 to 1,800 dogs are shown. During these eight days the show is the select rendezvous "par excellence." The high-life of Paris and France come here. Admission, 2 francs; season ticket for the whole duration of the bench show, 20 francs. Its president is the Prince de Wagram; secretary, Mr J. Boutrou. HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITION. Each year, in Spring and Fall, the National Society of Horticulture organizes in the Tuileries various exhibitions on the Terrace des Feuillants. During the World's Fair special horticultural exhibitions will be held about twice every month, either in the Palace of Horticulture, erected on the Cours-la-Reine, or in the immense Salle des Fetes (Festival Hall), which has been built amidst the old ma- chine gallery. At the same time there is a permanent hor- ticultural exhibition in the gardens around the Palace of the Champs-Elysees, along the Seine and at various point:; in the Trocadero, on the Esplanade des Invalides and at Vincennes. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 6/ THE BATTLE OF FLOWERS. Every year at the beginning of June the Societe des Vic- times du Devoir, a society following the noble aim to soothe and heal the wounds which arrant fate has struck to orphans and widows of those who fell in the perform- ance of duty, reserves part of the Bois de Boulogne at the Neuilly entrance and gives a Flower Festival on the plan of the celebrated Nice event. Carriages pay for admission to the inclosure according to the number of horses (people afoot pay l franc). Tlie proceeds go to the "victims of duty." This festival is well worth seeing. Towards 6 p. m. you will see a long file of carriages, trapped with wreaths and garlands, gaily beribboned and bedecked with flowers of every hue and variety. It is a battle of elegance and taste, as the best decorated carriages receive very fine prizes, and let me assure you that the battle is animated, gay and full of zest, though the missiles be flowers. THE REVIEW ON JULY 14TH. This is the grand military event of France, where the whole garrison of Paris passes in review at Longchamps before the President of the Republic and the Minister of War. The finishing climax of the wonderful military spec- tacle is a superb cavalry charge. You cannot pay your way to this review; you must obtain admission cards either through some officer or through diplomatic channels, and even when you have the much valued pasteboard, you must be on the ground much before 3 o'clock, when the review starts, because the tribunes are packed since 2. THE OPERA BALLS. These have preserved their pristine splendor and ani- mated gaiety, for which they are known throughout the world. It is considered "the thing" not to miss them. The first ball takes place each year by February loth, and the Mardi-Gras and mid-Lent balls are. of course, the most frequented events. Battles of flowers and many novel and original attractions are arranged, always in keeping with the tastes and fads of the day, and strangers say unan- imously that nowhere balls can be given which can com- pare in animation, mirth and life to these memorable feasts of Parisian gaiety, more so as the frame of the Opera of- fers a truly unique foil to this carnival of "laisser aller" in its grandeur. i68 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE RACING CALENDAR. JULY. Sunday, i. — Auteuil. — Amiens. — La Reole. — Marseille. — Hede. — La Roche-sur-Yon. Monday, 2. — Vincennes (flat). — La Roche-sur- Yon. — La Reole. Wednesday, 4. — Colombes. Thursday. 5. — Enghien. Friday, 6. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Sunday, 8. — Auteuil. — Amiens. — Rennes. — Ro- chefort-sur-Mer. — Vichy. — Salon. — Pompadour. — Redon. Monday, 9. — Vincennes (flat). — Rochefort-sur- Mer. — Rennes. Tuesday, 10. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. — Lugon. Wednesday, 11. — Colombes. Thursday, 12.— Saint-Ouen. Saturday, 14. — Vincennes (flat). Sunday, 15. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. — Vichy. — Longue. — Lugon. — Redon. Monday, 16. — Saint-Ouen. Thursday, 19. — Maisons- Laffitte. Friday, 20. — Enghien. Sunday, 22. — Vincennes (flat).— Vichy.— Verdun. — La Fleche. — Vitre. — Marennes. — Lamballe. — Aix-les-Bains. — Chalon- sur-Saone. — ■ Fontenay-le- Comte. — Nancy. — Niort. — Saint-Palais. Monday, 23. — Saint-Ouen. — Chalon-sur-Soone. — Fontenay - le - Comte. — Niort. Tuesday, 24. — Enghien. — Aix-les-Bains. Thursday, 26. — Maisons- Laflitte. — Aix-les-Bains. Sunday, 29. — -Maisons-Laf- fitte. — Fontenay - le - Comte. — Aix-les-Bains. — Langon. — Verdon. — Commercy. — Vichy. — Nancy. Monday, 30. — Langon. — Fontenay - le - Comte. — Commercy. AUGUST. Wednesday, i. — Vincennes (flat). Thursday, 2. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. — Boulogne-sur-Mer. Friday, 3. — Boulogne-sur- Mer. — Vichy. Sunday, 5. — Boulogne-sur- Mer. — Marseille. — Vichy. - — Vienne. Tuesday, 7. — Caen (mixed). Wednesday, 8. — Caen (mix- ed). — Vichy. Thursday, 9. — Vichy. — Li- sieux. Friday, 10. — Deauville. Saturday, 11. — Avranches. Sunday, 12. — Deauville. — Vichy. — Avranches. Monday, 13. — Pont-l'Ev- eque. — Cabourg (mixed). Tuesday. 14. — Cabourg (mixed). Wednesday, 15. — Deauville, — Mirande. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 169 AUGUST— Continued. Thursday, 16. — Deauville. Saturday, 18. — Deauville Ihurdle). Sunday, 19. — Deauville. — Mont-Saint-Michel.— Le Creusot. Monday, 20. — Alont-Saint Michel. Tuesday, 21. — Deauville. Wednesday, 22. — Deauville (obstacles). Thursday, 2^,. — Deauville (mixed). Sunday, 26. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Wednesday, 29. — Neuilly- Le\-aIlois. Friday, 31. — Cologne. SEPTE I. — Neuilly-Le- — Paris. — Co- Saturday, vallois. Sunday, logne. Monday, 3. — Vincennes (flat).— Cologne. Wednesday, 5. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Thursday, 6. — Tarbes. Friday, 7. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Saturday, 8. — 'Lucerne. Sunday, 9. — Paris. — Tarbes. — Lucerne. — Pompadour. Monday, 10. — Vincennes (flat). Tuesday, 11. — Enghien. Wednesday, 12. — Vincennes (trotting) . — Lucerne. Tliursday, 13. — Saint-Ouen. Friday, 14. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Saturday, 15. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Sunday, 16. — Paris. — Mar- seilles. — Cluny. Monday, 17. — Vincennes (flat).— Cluny. MBER. Tuesday, 18. — Enghien. Wednesday, 19. — Neuilly- Levallois. Thursday, 20. ^ Maisons- Laffitte. Friday, 21.— Saint-Ouen. Saturday, 22. — Vincennes (flat). Sunday. 23.— Paris. — Mar- seille.— Le Pin (mixed). — Le Clavette. ^fonday, 24.— Maisons-Laf- fitte. Wednesday, 26.~Maisons- Lafiitte. Thursday, 27.— Saint-Ouen. — Caen (stallion trial race). — Castres. Friday, 28.— Maisons-Laf- fitte. — Caen (stallion trial race). Saturday, 29.— Colombes.— Caen (mixed). Sunday, 30.— Paris.— Lille. — Marseille. — Caen (mix ed).— Castres.— Macon. OCTOBER. Monday, i. — Vincennes Thursday, 4.— Maisons-Laf (flat). fitte. Tuesday, 2. — Saint-Ouen. Friday, 5. — Enghien. Wednesday, 3 —Colombes. Saturday, 6.— Pari.s. I/O HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE OCTOBER- Sunday, 7. — Paris. Monday, 8. — Vincennes (trot). Tuesday, 9. — Saint-Ouen. Wednesday, 10. — Colombes. Friday, 12. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Saturday, 13. — Auteuil. Sunday, 14. — Paris. Monday, 15. • — Vincennes (flat). Tuesday, 16. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Wednesday, 17. — Colombes. Thursday, 18. — Paris. Friday, 19. — Saint-Ouen. — Cologne. Saturday, 20. — Auteuil. -Continued. Sunday, 21. — Paris. — Bor- deaux. — Cologne. Monday, 22. — Vincennes (mixed). Tuesday, 2^. — Chantilly. Wednesday, 24. — Colombes. Thursday, 25. — Chantilly. — Bordeaux. Friday, 26. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Saturday, 27.— rAuteuil. Sunday, 28. — Chantilly. — Marseille.— Bordeaux. Monday, 29. — Vincennes (flat). Monday, 30. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. NOVEMBER Thursday, i. — Auteuil. — Bordeaux. — Marseille. Friday, 2. — Vincennes (flat). Saturday, 3. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Sunday, 4. — Auteuil. — Bor- deaux. — Marseille. Monday, 5. — Vincennes (flat). Tuesday, 6. — Saint-Ouen. Wednesday. 7. — Maisons- Laffitte. Thursday, 8.— Auteuil. Friday, 9. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Saturday, 10. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Sunday, 11. — Auteuil. Monday, 12. — Vincennes 'flat). Tuesday, 13. — Maisons-Laf- fitte. Wednesday, 14. — Colombes. Thursday, 15. — Auteuil. Friday, 16. — Saint-Ouen. Saturday, 17. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Sunday, 18. — Auteuil. Monday, 19. — Vincennes (mixed). Tuesday, 20. — Enghien. Wednesday, 21. — Colombes. Thursday, 22. — Auteuil. Friday, 22. — Saint-Ouen. Friday, 30. — Enghien. Saturday, 24. — Neuilly-Le- vallois. Sunday, 25. — Auteuil. Monday, 26. — Vincennes (mixed). Tuesday, 27. — Saint-Ouen. Thursday, 29. — Auteuil. DECEMBER. Sunday, 2. — Auteuil. Sunday, 9. — Auteuil. Monday, 3. — Enghien. Saturday, 15. — Auteuil. Thursday, 6. — Auteuil. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I /I THE RACES. The races have a quite particular importance here, not only on account of the splendor and elegance displayed by the spectators, but principally owing to the richness of the prizes, which attract the best cracks of the world. Paris is surrounded by a belt of racetracks, which divide them- selves into the racing calendar. There are races daily at one of the tracks, except in August, which is devoted to the races at Trouville and the coast of Normandy; and, further, excepting the time December 15th to February 15th, when the Southern races are run, principally at Nice and Pau. Let me give a few practical hints to such as are not regular visitors at the tracks. You will find in almost any newspaper the place where races are run on a particular day. The best means of com- munication is nearly always by rail. Be careful not to make a mistake in the station, and do not arrive at the last minute. The railroads run special trains on racing days, and the time of departure will be given, just above the list of the field, in the Paris-Courses, a paper specially devoted to racing, or any other racing paper. These trains stop running about one-half hour or one hour before the time set for the first race, in accordance with the distance of the track. For the Chantilly races you must leave by noon; for the others you will be in time if you are at the station by i p. m., no later than 1.30 p. m., if the races begin at 2 p.- m., which is the usual time. On all racetracks we have paddock (pesage) and enclosure (the pelouse) ; only a few have a pavilion. The admission price to the paddock is uniformly 20 francs for men, 10 francs for la- dies; the pavilion (where it exists, and we shall mention this at each track) costs 5 francs for gentlemen or ladies. The enclosure (pelouse) costs i franc admission on some tracks and 3 francs on others. The paddock is certainly the most pleasant place, where you find the best people. For a man unaccompanied by a lady the pavilion is not so bad, but at the pelouse the public is very mixed. Although almost everybody knows how to place a bet on the races, I will say a few words to novices. On en- tering the paddock you receive the official programme, and on the same you will find under the head of each race the name of the owner; the names of the horses are ar- ranged consecutively by numbers, i. 2, 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. etc., and ihe pedigree and weight carried are given. About one-fourth hour before the first race numbers, and opposite the same the names of the jockeys, are posted 172 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE on a big board. Thus, when the disc over the board ap- pears in red, which occurs as soon as the field is closed, it means that only the horses indicated by numbers will run and that the corresponding jockeys will mount. Assum- ing that horses from Nos. i to 8 appear on a programme, and the board posts Nos. i, 2, 3, 5, 7; this would mean that the horses 4, 6 and 8 have been scratched. If, for instance. No. 2 corresponds on the board to T. Lane, and the pro- gramme indicates Valparaiso under No. 2, it means that horse No. 2, Valparaiso, will run with T. Lane up. After you have scratched on your programme the num- bers which are not posted, you may make your selection, and I cannot advise you much in that direction. The smallest bet at the paddock is 10 francs, at the pelouse and the pavilion 5 francs. You must designate your horse by number, not by name; you may play it to win or for place, if there are more than three horses starting. Where only three horses start you can only play for first, not for place where four horses run you can play first, and two for place, and with a field of eight horses there is one for first and three are for place. If the same owner starts two or more horses in the same race, you may select one or the other horse to win (but not for place), but if one of the horses of the stable wins the winner is paid on either number of the same stable. I suppose that you have friends to give you a tip on the horses to play, otherwise, if you are a novice, you may play just as you would play lottery, go it blind or follow the •elections of some racing paper. By all means do not be taken in by so-called tipsters. There is a lot of people at the races who will tell you to play for them, or to give them 10 to 20 francs for indicating the "sure thing" of the race. Don't listen to them; they know no more than your- self, and all they want is to part you from your 10 or 20 francs. Another advice, last but not least: Watch your pocketbook. SPORTING PRESS. The opening of the sporting season gives birth to a host of ephemeral publications. Hence we shall only mention the principal mouthpieces of sport, such papers as have been familiar for a long time to the frequenters of the turf. AUTEUIL-LONCjCHAMPS costs 10 centimes and is in its eighteenth year. This is the most important sporting daily; it enjoys the reputation of being well informed and every season it counts the best quota of successful racing prognostication. Daily, five minutes after each race, it HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1/3 sends to its subscribers and to the principal cafes, where you can peruse the sheet, the resuU of the race, with the report of the proceeds of the mutuals. An evening- edition gives the complete result and a summary of the day, to- gether with the entries and the programme of the next day. Chief editor is Mr. A. Laurentz. LE JOCKEY, daily at lo centimes, is in the hands of every horse-owner and grandstand habitue. PARIS-COURSES, daily at 5 centimes; the favorite of the paddock crowds, as much on account of its cheapness as for the quality of its information. PARIS-SPORT, 10 centimes, appears every racing day at 5 p. m., and gives complete results of the day and the programme of the next day, with the latest performance of each horse entered. LA FRANCE CHEVALINE, twice weekly, at 50 cen- times, is the special organ of trotting races, and is read by all lovers of this sport, whom Parisians designate with the sobriquet of "trotters." FLAT COURSE RACES. LONGCHAMPS.— Twenty minutes from Saint-Lazare station by rail. Longchamps is the best known flat race- course. You have the choice of any number of convey- ances, but the most agreeable and simplest communication is certainly by the special trains which leave from Saint- Lazare station evefy 5 minutes between i and 1.30 p. m. for Suresnes; tickets, first-class, 60 centimes; second-class, 40 centimes. These trains have a bar-car, where you can ob- tain excellent refreshments and smoke at your ease. Longchamps has a pavilion at 5 francs; the paddock costs I franc only, but you can also see the races very well from a carriage on the paddock near the winning post. Admission for one-horse carriages, 15 francs; two horses, 20 francs. The principal races are the Poules de Produits (Pools), Prix Hocquart, Prix Noailles, Prix Grefifulhe, Poule d'Essai de Pouliches. Poule d'Essai des Poulains (both the latter filly maiden pools), Prix Daru, Prix Lupin. As a crowning glory of the Summer meet, the Grand Prix de Paris (200,000 francs) is run on the second Sunday in June, the greatest event of the season. In Fall we have the coun- terpart to the Grand Prix de Paris in the Grand Prix du Conseil Muncipal (100,000 francs), which is run on the first Sunday in October; and, besides, we have the Royal Oak, Omnium Grand Criterium and the Prix Gladiator. 1/4 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE CliANTlLLY. — This is the former property of the Duke d'Aumale, and the races, which attract the most ele- gant public of Paris, notwithstanding the comparative dis- tance of this track, are run just opposite the castle. There is only one connection with Chantilly, by the Compagnie du Nord, which has done wonders to insure a rapid and perfect service. Special trains take about 40 minutes to Chantilly, and 30 to 40 run on racing days, one after the other. Round trip, first-class, 6.90 francs; second-class, 4.95 francs; third-class, 3.20 francs. As it is necessary to leave at 12.30 p. m. at the latest, I venture to give you the good advice to lunch at the bufifet of the station, where you will find an excellent meal at very moderate price. The paddock admission costs i franc, but there is no pavilion. When you arrive at Chantilly station you must take a carriage to go to the race course. Arrange about the fare with the driver beforehand, about 3 to 5 francs. There are only three meets, in May and end of October. The Diana prize comes off in May; also, the great event of the Jockey Club, generally called the Derby (75,000 francs). The races begin at 1.30 p. m. MAISONS-LAFFITTE.— A charming race^ track par excellence, only 24 minutes' ride from the Saint-Lazare station. These meets are extremely well frequented, par- tially on account of the great number of entries and further on account of the splendid yield of the mutuals. There is but one drawback, the lack of refreshment cars on the trains of the Compagnie de I'Ouest. This track has no pavilion. Admission to the paddock costs 3 francs. Car- riages are not allowed on the grounds. Principal prizes: In March the Prix Delatre; April, Prix Lagrange; May, Prix Godolphi; July, Prix Monarque; August, the Om- nium; September, Prix de Flore. End of September there are three international days. Thames Handicap. From October the races begin at 1.30 p. m., in Summer at 2 p. m. And now just a few words about VINCENNES — where mixed races are run, flat, obstacle or trotting. You may reach Vincennes by carriage, as the railroad service is very bad and there are so many accidents that it is better to run no risk. The catastrophe of Saint-Mande will be long remembered. Moreover, a carriage will take you to Vincennes for 3 francs in twenty minutes. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 175 OBSTACLE RACES. Ahead of all we mention: AUTEUIL. — At the very gates of Paris. You reach the track by the Western R. R. (Chemin de Per de I'Ouest) in less than twenty minutes. Most of the trains carry refresh- ment cars, and the bar does a rushing business. Here we find a pavilion, seats 5 francs, and the paddock costs I franc admission. Round trip, 50 centimes. The public at large is extremely fond of this track, where it always finds exciting racing and good odds. Auteuil Opens on February 15th and closes December 15th. It opens and closes the sporting season. The most important Spring events at this course are the Futurity (Prix de I'Avenir), the National Steeplechase, the Spring Prize (Prix du Printemps), the President's Prize (Prix du President de la Republique), 50,000 francs; in Summer we have the Grand Steeplechase of Paris (120,000 francs), the Great Hurdle Race (50,000 francs), the International Races, the Prix des Drags and the Wild Monarch Prize; in Fall the Futurity, Congress, Montgomery Prizes and the Croix de Berny. SAINT-OUEN. — Very pretty little race course, a great favorite of sportsmen. It is on the line of the Northern R. R. (Chemin de Fer du Nord). Tlie prizes are not very heavy, but there is always a great field at good odds. ENGHIEN. — Is also a very nice obstacle track, near the Casino d'Enghien; also on the Northern R. R. Unfortu- nately the prizes, which are small, do not attract much of a field. COLOMBES.— On the Western R. R. line (Chemin de Fer de I'Ouest, 20 minutes from Paris; refreshment cars on each train. This course is patronized by heavy bettors; • this is a gentlemen's track, and ofifers many strong sur- prises to the talent. Paddock. 3 francs; no pavilion. We conclude by mentioning, for compJeteness' sake, the tracks of Rarnbouillet and Compiegne, where some rare meets attract crowds of visitors, when they come ofif. • TROTTING. These races attract a special public, among whom we will find most of the horse-breeders of the Norman region. Most of the races are run in the country. However, the Half-Blood Society (Societe des Demi-sang) possesses near Paris a small track for this sport, at Neuilly-Levallois. On the big Vincennes race course this society reserves for 176 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE the trotters some heavy prizes on the days of mixed races. Here the breeding prize (Prix de I'elevage) and Presi- dent's Prize are contested for in Summer. As the latter amounts to 50,000 francs, it is certainly a big event for the trotters. In the Fail of last year the society had arranged a well- equipped and most successful international contest, and an- other event of the same kind will be offered to the lovers '^f trotting sport during the Exposition. CHAPTER VIII. CUSTOMS AND USAGES OF THE GREAT BUSINESS HOUSES OF PARIS. Let us now describe the daily life of a Parisian, taking the stranger by the hand and disregarding for the moment the curiosities of the capital, and let us guide him at ran- dom through this life of the boulevards here, there and everywhere, in order that he may rapidly familiarize himself with those thousand nothings, those indefinable subtleties which make the charm of Paris and give the true Parisian his characteristic appearance. In this way the foreigner will quickly learn how they dress, what is worn, or, rather, what it is proper to lay aside, following le dictates of the fashion of the day, the hour or the mo- nent. He will learn those business houses which are "the thing," which will make him present a stylish appearance. not only by means of the goods which they will ofifer, but also by means of tactful hints and suggestions. Let us begin the day with the Parisian. After he has taken his chocolate, if he has a position under the Government, you will find him in his ofiice about half-past nine; he will remain there until noon, and will return at two to stay until five. The greater part of the offices close from noon until two o'clock, for the breakfast (dejeuner) is a very important matter in Paris. At half-past five the Parisian comes out on the boulevard. It is the hour of the greatest stir and activity in the city. The foreigner, who generally up to that time has other matters than those of business, will pass his time in looking through the large shops, studying the styles, inspecting the latest productions in the Parisian fashion, like those not engaged in business. He must have alighted at some hotel convenient to the centre of life and bustle, like the Hotel Mirabeau, in the Rue de la Paix. This well-known hotel is frequented by the most distinguished personages of France and Europe, and is also the resort of affluent society. One is certain of a cordial reception there, and the prices are not extortionate. Every comfort is to be had. About half way up the Avenue de I'Opera, at No. 22, op- 178 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE posite the Rue des Pyramides, the handsome entrance of the Hotel des Deux-AIondes attracts the attention of the visitor. This entrance opens on the court of the hotel, which is surrounded with handsome terraces and gives carriages access within the hotel structure. Families which rnay have the good fortune to secure rooms or apartments in this eminently respectable house may be assured the}' will lack nothing of quiet, comfort or luxury, and that, too, at very moderate prices. The kitchen and attendance are of the very best. At the regular hours for meals and at the five o'clock tea a fashionable gathering, in addition to the regular guests of the house, throngs the rooms and tables of the hotel restaurant. It is worth a visit. For the wants of a large class who wish luxury, but in a ■ 1^ ^WimMmme-i HOTEL MIRABEAU quiet part of the city near the Bois de Boulogne, we would mention that elegant hotel, The American, newly fitted up, in the magnificent Avenue de Friedland, at No. 19, a hotel especially designed for wealthy Americans, and ar- ranged to give them all the comfort and luxury to which they are accustomed. Banking houses are as useful as hotels, but in a different way. We would mention Mun- roe, in the Rue Scribe; the Comptoir National d'Es- compte, Rue Bergere and Place de I'Opera, as safe and desirable, whether for the deposit of money or valuables. Before going further, let us call the reader's attention to an admirable organization designed to care for the foreigner in case of accident or illness, and whether his wants be medical, surgical or dental in their nature. This establishment, unique of its kind in Paris, is called Tin- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 179 stitut Medical International. It is in sight from the Place du Theatre Frangais, it is on the corner of the Rue' de I'Echtlle, where, at No. 3, may be seen, up one flight, a conspicuous sign in large white letters, I'lnstitut ^Medical International. The several departments of this institution are under the care of specialists of reputation, and all languages are spoken. The hours of consultation are from 10 to 12 and 2 to 5. Tickets are sold, covering treatment for a week or a month, at 10 and 20 francs. These are good for all CAFE RICHE the members of a family. Thus provided against accident or illness, let us decide upon suitable restaurants in dif- ferent parts of the city, which are frequented by people of the right class, and where we may be sure of finding a nice kitchen and proper neighbors, but Parisians, the real Parisian. In order that no mistake be made in this re- spect, suitable restaurants will be minutely specified. If you happen to be on the boulevards, in the center of things the name Paiilard should be mentioned — the Restaurant Paillard, celebrated throughout Paris for the excellenct l80 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE of its kitchen and wine cellar. Let us continue our leis- urely stroll along the boulevards where, whatever be the hour of the day, you will iind means of amusing your- self in true Parisian style. Opposite the point of inter- section oi .he Rue Lalitte with the boulevard is the Church of Notre Dame de Lorette, and in line with this, above and having almost the appearance of having been built on top of it, is the Church of the Sacre Coeur de Montmartre. You will soon see close by a handsome edifice on the same side of the way. It is the Cafe Riche, on the corner of the Rue Le Pelelier. The reputation of the Cafe Riche is very great. It has become, by an almost fairy-like trans-, formation, the most elegant cafe in Paris. It is to-day a very palace and a resort where one would like to dine, were it only once, in order to have some souvenir of an establishment so unrivaled in its class and some remem- brance of its never to be forgotten kitchen. Olher cafes worthy of mention are the Cafe dc Paris, Avenue de rOpera and Marguery, on the boulevards near the Theatre du Gymnase. This last named, one of the best, may be found very useful because of its proximity to the theatres which you will probably visit. Going along the boulevard toward La Porte Saint Martin (Saint Martin's Gate), we shall Hnd the Restaurant Maire on the corner of the Boulevard de Strasbourg, a daily meeting-place for artists and the gay world. The Place de la Concorde being an attractive spot and likely to claim the foreigner's attention many times, we give as a near-by restaurant in the Champs Elysees, the Pavilion Paillard, justly :elebrated among the most exact- ing epicures. The hour of breakfast or dinner may some- times find you on the other side of the river, or on the left bank of the Seine. If you are there for the purpose of visiting the Museum of Cluny or the Palace of the Lux- embourg, or the Theatre I'Odeon, you will find a con- veniently situated restaurant, long established and of great celebrity both for its kitchen and its wine-cellar, at the corner of the Rue de Tournon. It is the Restaurant Foyot, opposite the Senate Chamber. It is, during the sessions of this body, a sort of parliamentary headquarters, and a nightly place of meeting for the devotees of the second Theatre Frangais, which has become the first in rank pending the rebuilding of the Maison de Moliere. A brief general observation on the character of the Parisian cafe, or coflee-house, and the part it plays in the economy of Parisian life may perhaps be permitted here. Certain cafes are frequented by the literary class, certain HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE l8l Others by artists, still others by the theatrical world. Men of nearly all classes have their cafe where they are reason- ably certain to be found at a given hour every day, and where a great deal of business is transacted, ino attempt will be made to classify these very numerous resorts, but during the season, if you drop in at one of the following named from hve to six F. Al. you will see to the best advantage the amusing, fan.astic, changeable and ever- interesting panorama of Parisian life unfold itself before you: Grand Cafe, corner of the Rue Scribe; Cafe de la Paix, Place de I'Opera; Napolitan, opposite the Vaude- ville Theatre; Pousset, between the Rue Le Peletier and the passage of the Opera. If you desire to be in the fashion, you must wear, at different periods of the day, different costumes. That of the morning is not suitable for the afternoon. That for a shopping tour must be changed if you wish to make a call. My object in this chapter is not to become a master of the complicated art of dressing in accordance with the dictates of the Fashion. I do not propose even to retrace here the main lines of how one should dress for given occasions, but I desire nevertheless to place you on guard against such heresies, ''or instance, as to appear in a Prince Albert coat with a derby hat. I prefer, however, to direct you for the various shades to be observed, and which are likely to change any day, to a tailoring firm who can furnish you with ?11 the necessary information on that point, especial- ly if you show this book, which will insure you a specially courteous and cheerful welcome. Therefore, direct your steps to No. 3 Place de la Madeleine, at Messrs. Jamet et Harold, and there you will receive all the information which at the time I write may be absolutely exact, but alto- gether modified or inexact at the time you might call later on. It is an old-established house whose reputation goes on increasing as purveyors of European courts and elegant society. The house of Jamet et Harold has a specialty of choice cloths of the latest styles, and their fitting is irre- proachable — a very essential point. No one can like tiiem give the finish to a business suit which will enable you to risk a call without hurting the propriety of dress. Another reliable house and one of very attractive ap- pearance is Manby, 21 Rue Auber. This house has under- gone some very happy alterations in preparation for the Exhibition, and its reputation can but be increased by its recent output of fresh goods of the greatest elegance and good taste. Wraps for ladies are also sold here. And now let us attempt a description of the daily rou- 182 HOW TO SEE PARK ALONE tine of a Parisian lady. Her day begins late even by contrast with that of the leisurely men of business. With the exception of a drive in the Bois de Boulogne or morn- mg meetings in the drives like I'AlIee des Poteaux, a la Potiniere, a Madrid or a Armenonville, the fashionable iady in Pans rarely goes out before two o'clock. Her first visit, and one which ladies visiting Paris would naturally have occasion to make also, is to her dressmaker. I feel sure that none of the ladies who may peruse these pages would care to present themselves in fashionable resorts in Paris unless gowned in a manner to compare favorably with those formidable rivals in dress, the gay Parisiennes. The artistic cut and fit of a dress, the delicate blending of colors and the general effect of the whole are to be had in houses of the highest class as nowhere else. Laferriere, 28 Rue Taitbout, is a great house, and of the best. It has enjoyed an uninterrupted existence of' fifty years on the same spot and is justly in high repute for its elegant taste. Alterations have late- ly been made within and its apartments for the reception of its patrons are now all on the ground floor. Our most elegant society ladies and the actresses of our leading theatres are among the patrons of this bouse. They are also, by appointment, dressmakers to the Princess of Wales and to the ladies of several other foreign courts. In case our lady readers should find themselves con- strained, before fitting on their costumes, to avail them- selves of the services of a first-rate corset maker, we would mention before all others Leoty, at the end of the Place de la Madeleine. While in the Place de la Madeleine we will transcribe the address of a well known dentist, Dr. Leon. His card is printed herewith: Ch ir u rg ic n- Den tis te Uiplome de la Faculte de (Medccine de Paris {Memire de la Societe d' Odontologie de 2 a 6 heures 8, place de la Made'eine, PARIS HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 83 For hats, that indispensable crown to the successful toilet, we cannot do better than to suggest to our readers to make their selections in the Avenue de I'Opera, where the leading milliners are found. At No. 15, Mme. Dra- vert-Vallette's, are to be found the most elegant designs, whether for calling, for the theatre, for the races or the watering places, and these, we might add, at prices that are astonishingly low for the lovely tilings offered. Not very far from there, Place du Theatre Frangais, No. 3, is a young house which has already made for itself a reputation for turning out original and attractive de- signs. It is the old house of Satori, Mmes. Feuillatre et Liotard, successors. Their prices are low for what are really works of art. By this time it is four o'clock, and time for lunch. Par- isian ladies, usually without escort at this hour, never go to a coffee-house alone. They patronize one of the pastry- cook shops which abound along the route by which we have come, Rue Royale, Chaussee-d'Antin and du Havre, close by the railway station, Saint-Lazare. There are places which offer tea and muffins from 4 to 5, and which are well frequented. Colombin, in the Rue Cam- bon, is especially to be recommended. In no particular does Fashion hold a more arbitrary and exacting sway at Paris than in the selection of letter-paper and stationery of all sorts. Stern, near ihe Theatre des Varietes, pas- sage des Panoramas, has acquired a great reputation for luxurious letter and notepaper and elegant stationery of all kinds. His prints from steel-plate engravings and other artistic compositions are justly very celebrated. In antiques and rare works of art, Lovengard, formerly in the Rue Buffault, but who now, having outgrown his former premises, has taken up his abode at No. i Boule- vard des Capucines, has a choice collection which no amateur of ancient and artistic gems in that line can afford to overlook. Some choice and rare treasures may be seen there. A visit to one of the jeweler's shops of Paris is almost a revelation to the foreigner. Contreau, Rue de la Paix, ott'ers a bewitching assortment of precious stones, mount- ed and unmounted. These are displayed in perfect taste. Hamcl, Avenue de I'Opera, is very highly to be recom- mended. In the Rue Louis-le-Grand. No. 11. do not fail to visit the establishment of Maingourd, a jeweler from le Mans, who has opened a branch here for the sale of exquisite jewelry, bracelets, engagement rings, etc., made at le Mans by workmen selected from the most compe- 184 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE tent to be found in Paris. Prices here are very moderate. The Palais-Royal still keeps its old time renown for everything in the line of jewelry, and Blanchet, 19 and 20 Gallery Montpensier, offers a wonderful assortment of rings, bracelets and necklaces not easily duplicated else- where as regards both price and quality of work. It will be remembered that in the days of Louis XIV. and Louis XV. it was quite the thing to select wedding outfits in the Palais-Royal in the shops of the great jewelers of that epoch. The visitor will hardly leave Paris without bringing into requisition the services of a photographer. As you go from the Palais-Royal toward the Place Vendome through the Rue Samt-Honore, you will see, at No. 350 in this last named street, a very fine collection of photographs exposed- to view. This gallery, formerly belonging to Mora, is to-day carried on by Peuchet, who, in a com- paratively short time, has acquired an enviable reputa- tion. Foreigners who desire to take away with them some photographic souvenir in their visit to the Exposition of 1900 would do well to visit this house. Foreign languages are spoken here. And now the day is drawing to its close. After a drive through the Bois de Boulogne it will be dinner time, and after that time to go to the theatre. It will only remain to look m at some restaurants where supper is served after midnight. In addition to some excellent restaurants which have already been named, there is the Cafe de la Paix, the Grand Cafe, Pousset, and last, but highly to be recommended for the excellence of its suppers, the Cafe de Pa'-is. It is impossible to assert that such a round of pleasure and activity as has been described is adapted to any but the strongest constitutions. If nature, overcome by the fatigue or dissipations of life in Paris, should find herself in need of the prudent advice or the professional care of some competent physician, the office of Dr. Monnet, a specialist in diseases of the stomach- and skin, is to be found at No. 16 Boulevard Saint Germain. Consultations may be had with Dr. Monnet on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 2 to 4 P. M. On other days, or at other hours, by appointment. Although Dr. Monnet has pub- lished a treatise on diseases of the stomach and skin which has attracted attention (it is furnished, postpaid, at the nominal price of one franc), the Doctor by no means confines himself to these specialties, but treats all forms of disease. Dr. Monnet conducts a sanitarium for the HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 185 especial accommodation and convenience of patients who desire to remain under his constant care and observation. To wind this chapter up in a gayer tone, we will invite your attention to a house where you will hardly fail to make a purchase, either for use during your stay in Paris or to replenish your wine-cellar on your return. We refer to that distmctly French product, champagne wine, source of liveliness and restorer of health. The house of E. Mercier & Co., Epcrnay, have opened a Palais des Cham- Palais dos Cliainpagnes Mercier. pagnes, opposite I'Ecole jNlilitairc. It is on the corner made by the Avenues dc La Alotte-Piquet and de La Bourdonnais. This structure, handsomely designed and executed, contains a panoramic and cinematographic rep- resentation of the entire process of the culture of the wine in the province of Champagne. It also shows, in the same manner, a complete picture of all the wine-cellars belong- ing to this house and the way in which champagne wines are manipulated and ripened for public consumption. This lS6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE structure is rendered more complete by the addition of a room where the quality of the wine may be tested by the visitor. It is believed the success of this will at least equal that of the monster cask at the Exposition of 1889. It remains only to assure the reader that the bearer of a copy of this "Paris Exposition" will be the recipient of par- ticular attentions in all the houses herein mentioned. CHAPTER IX. MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION FR, ,M PARIS TO THE SUBURBS. With the exception ol New York, Paris probably has the best transportation system of any large city. In the first place, there are the public cabs (of which I have given you ietails on page 28). The fare is i franc and 75 centimes, including a "tip" for a "course," that is, a ride from one point to an}' other in the city, and 2 francs and 50 centimes if hired for an hour. You can generally find a cab in any street, and always at the cab stations, to be found at cer- tain corners and more especially in the squares. For those who do not wish to take a cab, Paris has pro- vided an omnibus and tramway system, which, although not equal to that of America, is still very practical. We will now speak of the great lines which serve the in- terior of Paris in general. As for those intended, more particularly for the Exposition, we will give detailed in- formation in the second part of the guide. The uniform fare on these lines is ,^0 centimes for the inside of the vehicles or on the platform, and 15 centimes for a seat en top. Smoking is permitted on the platform and on top. MADELEINE— BASTILLE We first speak of the most frequented line and the one which will be the most useful to you is the line from the Church of the Madeleine and che Place de la Bastille. This line runs from one end of the boulevards to the other. On its route it can put you down at any of the following theatres: The Opera, the Boufifes, the Nouveautes. the Va- rietes, the Gymnase. the Lyrique, the Porte St. Martin and the Ambigu. On race days at Vincennes you may take this omnibus to the Place de la Bastille, at the side of which i= the Vincennes station, where the trains leave for the race track. PLACE ST. MICHEL- GARE ST. LAZARE This line, of which the terminal points are the St. Lazare station and the Place St. Michel, is also much frequented. 1 88 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE It runs through the Rue Auber, passes before the Opera, follows the Avenue de 1" Opera, stops before the Theatre Francais, goes along the Rue de Rivoli, before the Louvre, to the Place du Chatelet, where the theatre of that name and also the Sarah Bernhardt theatre are situated, crosses, the bridge, passes before the Conciergerie and the Palace of Justice, and finally puts you down at the Place St. Mi- chel, in the heart of the Latin Quarter. VAUGIRARD-GARE ST. LAZARE Then there is the Vaugirard-Gare St. Lazare line, much frequented by visitors. After passing by the Madeleine and the Tuileries, it goes to the celebrated store called the Bon Marche, and then continues to an extremity of Paris, the Rue Vaugirard. We mention these three lines particularly because they can be used without confusion by all, even if unfamiliar with the French language, their routes are so simple. For those who can speak the language, we give, a little further on, a table of the lines which serve the interior of Paris, namely, the lines cl the Compagnie Generale des Omnibus et des Tramways; for the other lines, the Northern and Southern Tramways, are only used to go to the extrems? limits of the city. For those who use the vehicles of the Compagnie Gen- erale des Omnibus we wish to explain the method of cor- respondence or transfer system. The transfer system is provided for the purpose of al- lowing a passenger who does not find a line running directly to the place he wishes to go, to change cars on the route without paying an additional fare. Transfer tickets are only given to passengers who pay 30 centimes, that is. those who ride below — unless those on top choos'» to pay 30 centimes. A transfer ticket can be obtained only from the conauctor to whom you pay your fare; that is to say, if you have once changed cars and given your transfer ticket to the second conductor, you cannot obtain from the second conductor a transfer ticket allowing you to change cars again. If you do not know at what bureau (little street stations) to change, you have only to ask the conductor. As soon as you have left the first omnibus with your transfer ticket, you must go in the omnibus bureau and procure from the agent a ticket stating your number among those who are waiting for your second omnibus. When this omnibus arrives before the station, the numbers are called out. When your number is called HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 189 out, you get in, giving the conductor your transfer ticket. You have nothing to pay in this omnibus. The conductor will give you any information as to the place to get out. While waiting with your transfer ticket for the second om- nibus you are not allowed to leave the omnibus station and walk about or go to a store, even though it may take but a moment. STAGE AND STREET-CAR LINES STAGES Carrefour des Feuillantines, Place Clichy. Tiocadero, Gare de I'Est. Porte-Maillot, Hotel de Ville. Place de I'Etoile, Palais Royal. Tames, Filles du Calvaire. Madeleine, Bastille. Bastille, Place Wagram. Batignolles. Jardin des Plantes. Clichy, Od^on. Place Pigalle, Halle aux Vins. Montmartre, Place St. Jacques. Boulevard St. -Marcel, Notre Dame de Lorette. La Villette, Saint-Sulpice. Buttes-Chaumont, Palais Royal Belleville, Louvre, Lac Saint-Fargeau, Louvre. M^nilmontant, Gare Montpar- nasse. Charonne, Place d'ltalie. Plaisance, Hotel de Ville. Gare de Lyon, St-Philippe du Roule. Ruejenner, Square Montholon Palais Royal, Ecole Militaire. Gentilly (Ceinture) Place de la R^publique. Boulevard Montparnasse, Gare du Nord. Vaugirard, Gare Saint- Lazare. Grenelle, Porte Saint-Martin. Grenelle, Place de la Bastille. Passy, Place de la Bourse. Gare du Nord, Place de I'Alma. Champ-de-Mars, Quai de Val- my. Montrouge (Eglise), Gare de passy. Pantheon, Place de Courcelles. Porte de Versailles, Louvre. Javel, Gare Saint- Lazare. Gare Saint-Lazare, Place Saint Michel. Pare Monceau, La Villette. Gare Saint-Lazare, Gare de Lyon. Gare des Batignolles, Gare Montparnasse. Montmartre, Saint - Germain des Pr^s. Rue des Morrillons, Les Halles Boulevard de Bercy, Boulevard de la Villette. Porte d'lvry, Bastille. Porte Saint -Martin, Concorde. 190 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE STREET CARS Louvre, Vincennes. Place de I'Ettjile, La Villette. La Villette, Place de la Nation. Cours de Vincennes, Louvre. Montrouge, Gare de I'Est. La Chapelle, Square Monge. Cimetiere St.-Ouen, Bastille. Passy, Hotel de Ville. Louvre, Charenton, Creteil. Bastille, Avenue Rapp. Gare de Lyon, Place de I'Alma. La Muette, rue Taitbout. Auteuil, Boulogne. Trocadero, La \ illette. Trocadero (ceinture), place Pi- galle. Porte d'lvry, Les Halles. Eglise de Boulogne, Les Mou- lineaux, Place de la Natioii, Gare de Sceaux. Pantin, Opdra. Montreuil, Chatelet. Charenton (ecoles), Place de la R^publique. Saint-Denis, Chatelet. Louvre, Saint-Cloud, Sevres . Versailles. Auteuil, Saint-Sulpice. Cours de Vincennes, Saint- Augustin. Auteuil, Madeleine. Montrouge, Saint-Philippe du Roule, Trocadero (ceinture), Etoile, Op6ra. Boulevard de Vaugirard, Gare du Nord. Gare d'Orleans, Gare du Nord. Arpajon, Rue de Mddicis. Point du Jour, Place de I'Alma. Gare de I'Est, Place de la Con- corde. Place de la R^publique, Place de la Concorde. Bastille, Place de la Concorde. THE PASSENGER BOATS.— If you should find yourself near the Seine and wish to take a little trip on the water, or to go to sotiie other point which is also near the Seine, it is very convenient to take the river boats, which will carry you from the Point du Jour to the Bastille for the moderate sum of 2 cents on week days and 4 cents on Sundays. These boats stop at nearly all the bridges. We will mention these boats again in speaking of excur- sions to the environs of Paris. PARIS-AUTEUIL RAILWAY. This line is indeed of very great service to busy persons; the fare second-class is 30 centimes, and the trains leav- ing the Gare Saint-Lazare every seven minutes, on ord - nary days, take a quarter of an hour to reach Auteuil, sit- uated right at the other end of Paris. You may stop in course of route at the following stations: BatignoUes-Courcelles— On the Place Pereire. Neuilly— Which supplies the Jardin d'Acclimatation, and where is one of the entrances to the Bois de Boulogne. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE IQI Bois de Boulogne — Facing the Porte Dauphine at the Avenue of the Bois de Boulogne, within a few yards of the Place de I'Etoile and the Champs Elysees. Trocadero — Right at the top of the Avenue Henri Mar- tin, which leads to the Exhibition. La Nuette — For all the suburb of Passy. Auteuil — Of which we have already spoken in our chap- ter relating to the races. THE METROPOLITAN. The Metropolitan will enclose Paris in an immense net, whose stitches carefully and slowly fastened will be termin- ated, one part on ihe 30th of March, 1906, and the second part on the 30th of March, 191 1. On the 15th of June, 1900, the line specially constructed for the Exhibition will be thrown open to Paris and its millions of visitors. This line will go from Vincennes, following the whole of the Rue de Rivoli, as far as the Place de I'Etoile, and, hence taking the shape of a three branches fan, one will lead to the Porte Maillot, the second to the Porte Dau- phine and the last to the Trocadero. The fare will always be the same, whatever the distance to travel, viz.: 25 centimes first-class and 15 centimes sec- ond-class. As long as the passenger does not leave the station (the same rule applies to the American elevated railways) he is allowed to take any other train. How- ever, by purchasing a ticket for 20 centimes before 9 a. m. the holder will be entitled to take, without extra charge, any of the afternoon trains going in opposite direction. In all the stations the entrance, single or otherwise, is situated in the street and leads to a subterranean station, where tickets can be purchased and from which it is very easy to reach the platforms. From Vincennes to I'Etoile the trains run every two min- utes and stop at Place of the Nation, Rue de Reuilly (en- trance between the streets Rondolet and de Chaligny). Gare de Lyon (entrance by the Rue de Chalons), Place of the Bastille, Rue Saint-Antoine (entrance at the junction of the streets of Rivoli and Saint-Antoine), Place de I'Hotel de Ville, at the Louvre (entrance at the corner of the Rue de Rivoli, and of the Place Saint-Germain I'Aux- errois), at the Palais Royal, at the Tuileries (entrance Pa- vilion de Marsan). Place of the Concorde, Avenue Alex- rndrc III. (at the corner of the Champs Elysees), Rue Marbeuf, Avenue of I'Alma and I'Etoile. 192 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Outings and Excursions. It is not sufficient to have seen Paris well. Near the city there are a number of historic places to which agreeable excursions can be made and which strangers should visit. At the head of the list must be placed Versailles, the sumptuous residence of the "Great King," Louis XIV.; a part of the palace has been transformed into a museum. St. Cloud, Sevres, Versailles, St. (-.ermain, Fontainebleau. The only practical way to get to Versailles is by the rail- road. You will take the Montparnasse station or the St. Lazare station, whichever is the more convenient. I have supposed until now that you are living on the right bank of the river, in which case you should take the St. Lazare station. To make the excursion to Versailles you should take an entire day, leaving by the train at 9.05 (there are others at 10.00 or 11.05), and having breakfast at Versailles. On arriving at the St. Lazare station, go up in the large hall, and on the side opposite the waiting rooms and facing it, you will see ticket windows with the sign Billets. Above you will see the sign Versailles. Following are the prices of tickets to Versailles: First-class. Second-class. Single ticket i-Sof i.isf Return ticket 3 . oof 2 . 3of Having secured your ticket, pass through the waiting- room, at the door of which you also see the sign Ver- sailles (together with the time of departure of your train), and, after showing your ticket to the agent, you can go and take your place in the train. The railroad takes you successively through Clichy, Levallois and Asnieres, where you pass the Seine, Becon, Courbevoie, Puteaux, Suresnes and St. Cloud. We will stop a moment at St. Cloud, if you wish, and take a glance at this old imperial park. On leaving the station, take the Rue Dailly, built under Louis Philippe, which passes before the station itself. This street leads up to the little plateau of Montretout, where, at the corner of the Rue des TenneroUes, arid on the way to Versailles, is the monument erected in memory of the heroes who fell there in the famous battle of Montret- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 93 out. Continue along the Rue Dailly, which will bring you to the big barred gate, the entrance to the Avenue du Palais, on the Place d'Armes. At your left is the Seine, over which you see the bridge which connects St. Cloud with Boulogne, with the res- taurant du Pavilion Bleu on the bank. Behind you is the restaurant de la Tete Noire. You must now follow the Avenue du Palais, on the left of which, some distance back, are the barracks of the dragoons, until you reach the principal gate of the park; if you are in a carriage, you must first buy an entrance ticket at the tobacco store in the Place d'Armes. It is at the left of this gate that we find all that remains of the royal palace. At the right of the gate is the Valois pavil- ion, which has been turned into the "Superior Normal School of Primary Instruction." There, where now stretch terraces, once rose the palace, burned during the Commune of 1871, and of which the ruined walls stood un- til 1896. Advancing along the terrace to the left, you find before you a beautiful view of Paris. At your feet passes the avenue which leads to Sevres, where we will take you for a moment; for there is nothing to be seen at St. Cloud, except the beautiful park, and Sevres being the station after St. Cloud on the road to Versailles, we will take this op- portunity of saying a word about it. SEVRES— The Factory. If we stop at Sevres, it is not at all because of the im- portance of the pretty town, for, although it contains a number of fine villas and is surrounded by beautiful woods. it would not merit particular attention were it r ot the seat of the most interesting national factory. Sevres can be reached by boat, by tramway and by three lines of railroad. Once there, ask any one the road to the Manufacture, which is near the church. Before leaving Pans you should secure, at No. 3 Rue de Valois, an ad- mission ticket, given gratuitously, which will permit you to .visit the workshops on Monday, Thursday or Saturday, and the museum and galleries any day. You should, there- fore, choose one of these three days for your visit, so as to see the workshops and the museum on one trip. The factory of Sevres is in the town of Sevres, at the entrance of the park of St. Cloud. On arriving before the factory, go up the stairway facing the park, at the foot of which is the statue of Bernard Palissy. These stairs lead to a vestibule, where you must check your cane or um- 194 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE brella. There you will find a guide, who, on seeing your card, will accompany you on a visit to the workshops. First you will be shown how the rough material is pre- pared out of which are made the beautiful vases and por- celains so fine that they are nearly always the gifts selected by France for foreign rulers. A little further on a work- man will, before your eyes, "turn" a cup, a saucer, or some other piece of porcelain. Then you will watch the work- man whose duty it is to strain the paste. Your visit to the workshops will be terminated before the furnaces, where the products you have just seen manufactured are baked. From the workshop you will be conducted to the show and sales rooms and the museum, where you can admire the final results obtained by the men you have seen at work. Give a fee of 15 sous to the guide who accompanied you. VERSAILLES. On leaving the station you will find in the courtyard a number of "cabbies," who will beg the honor of driving you. Unless it is your intention to only remain at Ver- sailles a very short time, say two hours, I would advise you to decline their offers, and to avail yourself, instead, of the tramway to be found beyond the station gate, which will take you directly to the palace. There are three things at Versailles, or rather three groups of things, which you must at least see; for to study everything carefully one afternoon is hardly sufficient. These things are the Palace, the Park and the Trianons. We do not pretend here to give complete details on these subjects. We limit ourselves to pointing out in a general way, as has heretofore been our plan, what should be seen. We leave the details of the galleries and the park to those better able to speak, and for the benefit of such of our readers who can give some time to this visit, we cannot do better than recommend the famous guide "Une Journee a Versailles" (A Day at Versailles), in which the author, M.;. L. Bernard, keeper of the palace, in unpedantic style gives complete and practical details in regard to every- thing pertaining to Versailles. As for us, we must take a more general view. The large square, dominated by the palace, is called the Place d'Armes. It is reached by the Avenue de Paris, on one side of which is the artillery workshop, formerly the great stables, and on the other the engineering bar- racks, formerly the "little stables." You pass through the magnificent gilded gate which HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I95 separates the outer courtyard from the Place d'Armes. This outer courtyard is contained between two buildings formerly known as the "wings of the ministers." The palace which rises before you has been changed in many details by the various governments which have held sway since Versailles was the residence of the "Great King," Louis XIV. Thus, the sixteen statues stretching to right and left along the courtyard were placed there in the reign of Louis Philippe; in whose reign also was erect- ed the great equestrian statue of Louis XIV. on the site of the gate which used to separate the outer court from the royal courtyard. Having passed the equestrian statue of the "Sun King," turn a little to the right and you find yourself in the chapel court, by which you can enter the palace. The Palais and the Trianons are open every day. except Mon- day, from eleven to five o'clock. The gardens are closed at nisht. You must leave your cane or umbrella in the great antichamber at your right. Having passed the vesti- bule you find a stairway at your right which leads to the apartments above. The door near the foot of this stair- way over which are the numbers 84-93 leads to picture alleries The stairway leads you to the upper vestibule of the chapel, from which you get a full view of it. I particular- ly call to your attention the. paintings on the ceiling. From there \vc pass through the Salon of Hercules (105), which was the great ball-room of the eighteenth century, and the "Salon of Abundance" (106). There we enter the great apartments of Louis XIV. Passing by the door in front of, the window, we find, successively, the salons of Venus (107), Diana (108), Mars (109), Mercury (no), and Apollo (ni), which, sumptuously furnished and hung with tapestries representing the history of Louis XIV., once served for the receptions of the court. Each of the ceilings represents the divinity which has given his or her name to the salon. We next find ourselves in the Salon of War (112), which, with the Glass Salon and the Salon of Peace, make a suite truly marvelous. It was in the famous Glass Salon that all the great fetes of the court were given. It was here also— sad remembrance!— that the king of Prussia was crowned Emperor of Germany; but, in revenge, it wa., here, the 8th of October, 1896, while the people were pro- claiming the Franco-Russian alliance, that the august sovereign .,.f onr friendly neighbor, the Czar Nicolas II., was received. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I97 You next enter the Cabinet of the King by the glass door opening into the Glass Gallery (at the back of which are the little apartments of Louis XV.), which must be visited with a keeper; then the room where Louis XIV - died, irom which we pass into the antichamber where the courtiers awaited the rising of the king. This latter room on account of an oval window in it, is called the "Anticham- ber of the Bull's Eye" (123). Thence we continue our visit by way of the Salon of Peace, the chamber of the queen, her large private room and the antechamber which brings us to the Guards' Room; but I would advise you to make this part of your visit on going out; that is when you arrive at the Guards' Room by the new way I am •?oing to show you. Go back a little to the "Bull's Eye " which gives access to the "little apartments" of the queen which must be visited with a keeper, to whom you will' give eight or ten sous on leaving. Those '-little apart- ments can sometimes be entered from the queen's cham- ber, Tlie keeper will give you the history of each room ind the great events of which they were witnesses. On leaving the little apartments we enter the Guards- Room, from which the marble stairway, or "Queen's Stair- way." lakes you up to the great historical picture rooms If you go through to the left in the Glass Salon, you ar- rive at :i number of rooms of which the walls are cov- ereo with lamous paintings. The last of these rooms are the 'Battle Gallery," and the portrait room. Outside of the palace proper, at the Princess' court en- trance, there are the halls of Congress and the Senate (the latter was the old Opera), and the hall of the Jeu de Paume (Games). Rue Gambctta. whose walls witnessed the oath of the deputies of the Third Estate (Tiers Etat) which served as a prelude to the revolution. THE PARK AND THE GARDENS. The majesty and beauty of the Park of Versailles can best be observed from the terrace in front of the palace I will not attempt to guide you here. for. outside of the palace gardens, which are on the terrace itself a volume would be required for the task.. The best thing to do is to take a carriage, agreeing on the price in advance, and drive about for an hour or an hour and a half throuo-h the majestic alleys and the woods. There is one day each month which is the best to visit the park, that on which all the fountains play. The effect is splendid. On this day. however, which is always a Sunday— in summer the now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 99 first Sunday of the mouth — the Parisian public, informed by advertisements, comes in such numbers that the apart- nicuLs of the palace are closed. After you have seen the park, drive, or if you are on foot it is but a short walk to the Trianons, or chateaux. TRIANONS. — The visit to the Trianons must be made with a keeper. You will be taken around with ten or twenty other people, shown the dififerent rooms and ex- plained their former use. There is the Grand Trianon, much the more important, and the little, or Petit Trianon, the favorite residence of Marie Antoinette, who had a little hamlet built there, with a cow-house, where she used to ainuse herself with playing at peasant. Between the two Trianons is the carriage museum, where all the old Stale and court carriages are to be seen, and also that used by the Russian Emperor on his trip from Paris to Versailles. Other excursions in the immediate environs of Paris are to St. Germain and to Marly. Each of these places has had its hour in history. ST. GERMAIN. This is cue of the classic excursions near Paris. There are several ways of getting there; first, by railroad from the St. Lazare station, which will put you down before the palace in thirty minutes. There is a good buffet on each train. The price of tickets is as follows: First-class. Second-class. Single ticket t.5of. i.osf. Return ticket j.oof. 2.iof. The Compagnie de I'Ouest (Western Raiload Com- pany) has also a line by way of Marly le Roi, of which we speak in the ne.xt paragraph. This trip is very pretty; time, one hour and twenty minutes. The price of tickets is as follows: First-class. Second-class. Single ticket i.8of. l.2of. Return ticket .3.oof. 2.iof. Return tickets are good by one or the other route. There is also a steam tramway, which leaves the Arc de Triomphe and goes to Bougival by way of Marly. Finally, every morning from May to the end of Septem- ber, the river boat, le Touriste, leaves the quai d'Orsay HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 20I (Orsay whan") and lands passengers at the foot of the ter- race of the St. Germain jjalace. Single tickets are 3 francs, return tickets 4 francs. Lunch and dinner are served on board. The principal thing at St. Germain is the excursion through the woods. Whichever way you may turn a picturesque scene lies before you. The restored i)alace of St. Germain contains a number of very interesting national antiquities, and from the terrace of the palace a beautiful view is obtained. MARLY LE ROL The means of getting to Marly le Roi are the same as those of St. Germain. If you take the boat, however, you should get ofif at Port Marly, near Bougival, celebrated for its boatmen's ball. Port Marjy and Marly le Roi are realh tvvo parts of the same place, one on the Seine and the other at the top of the slope. Nothing remains of the former palace of Marly, which stood in the midst of the magnificent woods. Some ivy-covered stones indicate the site. The excursion through the woods should be men- tioned again. It is most fascmating, and those who wish an hour of repose from the turmoil of Paris will not regret looking for it at Marly. FONTAINEBLEAU. Although hardly in the environs of Paris, the excursion to Fontainebleau is sucli a favorite one, both for bicycle en- thusiasts as well as those content with the modest rail- road, that I must speak of it in this connection. Fontamebleau is connected with Paris by the P. L. M. Railroad. Express trains take about an hour and a half. First-class. Second-class. Single tickets 6.6of. 4-45f. Return tickets 9-yof. 7-i5f. The station at Fontainebleau is about a mile and a half from the palace. The best way to get there is to take the electric tramway, which is reached by an underground passage fron: the slation itself, and which will ])ut you down before the palace in twenty minutes. Fare, 30 centimes. Get off at the Place Solferino. in front of the horseshoe stairway: at the top of which Napoleon, about to leave in exile, bid farewell to his old guard. Between the two arms of this stairway is the public en- trance to the palace. The wing to the right hand, which 202 now TO SEE PARIS ALONE is not open to the public, contains the apartments of the President of the RepubHc. Under the stairway you will find a guide, who will take you on the regular tour through the palace; fee, 50 centimes. The principal points of in- terest are the chapel, the apartments of Napoleon I., the apartments of Marie Antoinette, the library and the theatre. If, on leaving by the horseshoe stairway, you turn to the left under the arch, you find yourself in the Court of the Fountain. To your right is the Chinese museum, with the fish pond at the end. If you go through the court and pass under the arch facing the first one, you find beautiful gardens, carefully attended to. Continuing along the side of the building, you find a gate, to the left, which opens on the road, which, passing between the palace on the left and a school on the right, takes you to Place d'Armes, where there is a cab-station. The forest is wonderful and a drive through it, if you have time, will well repay you. Take the route by the Valley of the Sole, Franchard and Barbizon; or the coachman will arrange the itinerary ac- cording to the time at your disposal. Arrange the price of your carriage in advance, and bargain well with your coachman. I know of no greater robbers than the coach- men of P'ontainebleau. Ofi^er him half what he asks, and you will still be robbed. I will complete this chapter by a word to bicycle and automobile enthusiasts. If you have not a machine, the first thing is to know where to procure one — either buying or renting it — which won't break down on the road. Here are some addressees which may be of service: ' Gladiator, Boulevard Montmartre, RUDGE, Boulevard Haussmann. Bicycle and Automobile Excursions. PARTS— SAINT CLOUD-VERSAILLES— VALLEES DE LA BIEVRE et de CHEVREUSE. The daily promenade which calls only for slight exertion is to the Bois de Boulogne. This might be said to be the ■ starting point for all excursions, for the forest of Vin- cennes is too far away to be convenient for such a pur- pose. From the Bois you can continue your excursion as far as Saint-Cloud. To do this you go down the river, behind Longchamps, and then, coming up stream, always on the right bank, you come to the bridge of Saint-Cloud. Keeping straight HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 203 on and passing Sevres you will come to Bas-Mendon, nhere you can breaklast or dine on the banks of the river. I'his excursion is delightful about five in the afternoon or on a fine morning. From the Bois de Boulogne and the Bridge of Suresne you can go to Versailles by an agreeable but somewhat hilly route, through Montretout. by the heights of Saint- Cloud, along the park of the same name and through the city of Avray. There are two fine excursions from Ver- sailles; the first into the valley of the Bievre. You go through the groves, near the station on the left bank and, keeping to the right, you go down toward Jouy, cross the Bievre, and come back either by the Croix-de-Berny and Sceaux or (but this is a longer route) by Choisy-le-Roi and Charenton. The second excursion is to the valley of Chevreuse; this is longer but a finer one. Near Jouy you turn to the right, not far from a large aqueduct, you cross the elevated land which separates the Bievre from the Yvette and going down to Chevreuse you rest. Then you go up the delightful little valley all verdant and wooded, you visit Dampierre and you push on as far as Vaux de Cernay, picturesque rocky gorges, diminutive representa- tions of the Alpine cafions. To return by a different route you turn to the left at Dampierre; you pass through la Verriere, Trappes, Saint-Cyr and thence to Versailles. PARIS — SAINT-GERAIAIN — PONTOISE — MAN- TES — ROUEN. From the Bois de Boulogne, always our central point, take the Bridge of Suresnes, climb the slope; turn to the right after you get by the railroad bridge, pass through Rueil, Chatou, Ic Vesinet, le Pecq; thence up the hill to Saint-Germain. This route, perhaps somewhat hard to trace out, is well supplied with guide-posts. Saint-Germain, like Versailles, is also a good starting point for excursions, whether to be to Poissy and "following the flowery banks watered by the Seine" to Mantes, still farther to the pretty city of Vernon, farther yet to Rouen, by a diversified route, over hills, through valleys, in the midst of deep-shaded forests, past charming sites, little villages with artistic sou- venirs, like Pont de I'Arche, or whether, turning to the right at the entrance to Saint-Germain itself, you cross the Loges and the lovely forest in its whole extent to come out at Conflans and at the pretty confluence of the Oise. Keepmg on your way. you go directly to Pontoise, or, bet- ter still, by following the meanderings of the river, then 204 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE back to Paris by a new and direct route, through Her- blay, Enghien, the banks of the Seine and the Bois de Boulogne. PARIS— CO A'IPIEGNE OR FONTAINEBLEAU. The other excursions are long and practicable for auto- mobiles only. Paris — Chalons; Paris — Chantilly; Paris — Chartres; Paris — Etampes; Paris — Soissons; Paris — Troyes; to make them implies covering a goodly number of miles. There are, however, two very practicable excursions, ofie to Compiegne, the other to Fontainebleau. Bicyclists go by rail to either of these two cities and thence, branching out in all directions, pass an agreeable day or two. At Compiegne, after crossing the bridge over the Oise, you go straight through the forest as far as Pierrefonds, where you may breakfast. You come back, after visiting the chateau by the little lakes, .and you will thus have gone through the most attractive parts of the forest. At Fon- tainebleau the excursions are longer and more varied. To visit Barbison, Marlotte, the tower of Denecourt, with its beautiful view, the eagle's nest (le nid de I'aigle), the place called le gros Fonteau, the rocks and gorges of Franchard. the rocks of the Ermites (hermits), the weeping rock (la roche qui pleu-re), the gorges of Apremont would require a stay of several days, which, for that matter, one would never regret. r=^|^S — » CHAPTER X. FASHIONABLE SEASIDE RESORTS Those visitors who have- only two or tlirce weeks to spend in France will, naturally, give all their time to Paris and the Exposition; but those who have come for a long Slay will not. in general, desire to stop all the hot season in the capital, but will arrange to spend some weeks in the fresh air of the seaside resorts. There they will find the fashionable society of Paris, which, beginning with the month of June, escapes to the seashore to continue the pleasures of the winter in the casino-balls and the night fetes, not to mention the races, where the men go to see the horses and the women to let others see their pretty gowns. The seaside resorts of Brittany are not much frequented, except by tourists and by those who wish to spend their vacation economically. It is to the coast of Normandy you must go if you wish to be in the fashion. The number of these resorts which are considered fashionable is quite limited, and in each you will find about the same faces, for it IS considered "the thing" to be seen at certain times in each these three or four places, these periods being gener- ally the race days. All four of these fashionable places are situated on the net-work of the Compagnie de I'Ouest, which, at the sea- son of the seaside excursions, endeavors to make the ac- commodations for travel both agreeable and cheap. We will speak a little later on of the different methods which this company has provided, saving both time and expense for the convenience of those who wish to visit the Nor- mandy coasl. PRACTICAL ADVICE.— I repeat the advice which I gave at the beginning of this book, when you were on the point of leaving for Paris; namely, to write from Paris five or six days in advance to the hotel which you have selected at Trouville. Dieppe, Fecamp or Treport; otherwise you will run the risk of not being able to secure accommo- dations. 2o6 HOW TO SEE TARIS ALONE Take as little baggage as possible, particularly if you in- tend to visit several resorts; though a dress-suit for men and one or two evening gow^ns for women are indispen- sable, for there is much parade of fashion at these resorts, and in the evening at the Casino evening dress is in order. To save you annoyance with your baggage, the "Com- pagnie de I'Ouest, alwaj's solicitous for the comfort of its travelers, will take your baggage from your residence the day before your departure. This service is also attended to by the Duchemin agency. THE ST. LAZARE STATION.— The Compagnie de rOuest has two stations in Paris; the Montparnasse sta- tion, on the left side of the river, which serves all the west of France, principally Brittany, and the St. Lazare sta- tion, in the heart of the right section of the city, which is the place of departure for the fashionable resorts mentioned. After having ascertained the hour of departure of your train in the time-table (a little blue-book; price, 30 cent- imes; for sale in all stations, and which should be secured for the purpose of learning the various stopping places of your train), you should write to M. le Chef du Depot de '^avalerie de la Compagnie de I'Ouest, 86 Rue de Rome, stating which train you will take and how many are in your I any. You should arrive at the station half an hour before the train leaves in order to get comfortably arranged, and at- tend to your baggage. If you have sent your baggage by the Duchemin agency, there is no trouble. If your bag- gage is carried to the station by the company's carriage in which you ride, you should drive to the Havre Court, where porters, to whom you should give 4 sous per trunk, will put your baggage on hand-carts and roll it to the checking room. This attended to, inquire for the ticket ofifice. Ask for the number of tickets you wish (children under seven years old are half price), and be careful to specify whether you desire first or second-class. (The first-class tickets are biue; second-class brown. Return tickets are divided in two parts by a red line.) Having secured your ticket, re- turn to your porter and lake from his hand-cart such of your baggage as you desire to take in your apartment with you. Your trunks will then be weighed, each person being allowed to have 30 kg. carried free. You will be given a baggage receipt, which states the number of your pieces, HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 20/ the weight, and any amount paid. Be very careful of this receipt, for you must have it at your destination in order to secure your baggage. This done, give your hand pack- ages to a porter — paying him a few sous — who will conduct you .to your train, where you can put your packages in your seatt and then do what you please until you hear the traditional. En voiture, s'il vous plait!" (All aboard, if you please!) PRECAUTION.— Be sure that the train in which you Lave taken your place goes directly through to your dts- tinauon, or learn if it is necessary to change cars on the way; otherwise you will run the risk of finding yourself many miles from where you expect. FROM PARIS TO TROUVILLE. To Trouville, according to the time you wish to remain there, the price of tickets is as follows: First-class, 24.65 francs; second-class, 16.65 francs; return ticket, good for ten days, exclusive of the day it is bought, first-class, 35.85 francs; second-class, 24.15 francs; return ticket, good for four days, first-class, 30 francs; second-class, 21.50 francs. As to the hour to leave Paris, following are the different trains between Paris, Trouville and Deauville: Fast train, r.io p. m.; express trains, 7.55 a. m., 9.45 a. m., 5 p. m., 6.30 p. m.; ■■half-express," 8.45 a. m; omnibus, slow trains, 12. |0 a. m., 1.20 p. m., 3.25 p. m., 11. 16 p. m. We will not mention the omnibus trains further, as they take too long a time, but will confine ourselves to the others. For people in a hurry, or those who only intend spending two or three days at Trouville, the fast train which leaves Paris at i.io p. m., and which has passage ways and other conveniences, is the most practical, as it arrives at Trouville at 4.52 p. m., which leaves the evening free. Among the express trains the most agreeable are those at 5 p. m. and 6.30 p. m. Dinner is served on these trains, and. thanks to the Compagnie des Wagons-lits, the ap- pointments of the cars are perfect. These trains are near- ly as fast as that at i.io p. m., the 5 p. m. train arriving at 8.47 and the 6.30 p. m. train at 10.54. On these two trains meals are served from Paris to Mantes, from Mantes to Conches, or from Perquigny to Trouville. Price of meals (wine not included), first-class, 6 francs; second-class, 3.50 francs; wine is from 2 francs per bottle, or i franc per half bottle. 208 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ARRIVAL AT TROUVILLE. Most of our readers who take this trip will only remain at Trouville a few days, two or three weeks at the most, and will, therefore, go to the hotel, as the cottages are very dear and are not rented for less than a month. Following is a list of the best hotels: Hotel des Roches Noires, Hotel de Paris, Hotel Bellevue, Hotel de la Plage, Hotel Beausejour. On arriving at the station you will find cabs and omni- buses. The best thing to do is to take the omnibus of the hotel which you have selected. The fare is 50 centimes for each person, during the day, and 70 centimes from mid- night to six o'clock in the morning. You can give your baggage ticket to the conductor of the omnibus, who will see that your things are immediately forwarded to the hotel, thus saving you all trouble. The price of a cab from the station to a hotel is 1.50 francs, tip 25 centimes. If hired by the hour the price is 3 francs the first hour and 2 francs for each succeeding hour. From midnight to six o'clock in the morning the price is doubled. To take you to your hotel your carriage will turn to the right from the station and cross a bridge over the Tonques, a little river at the mouth of which Trouville is situated. You then proceed along the quays to the left by the Rue des Bains, which takes you to the heart of the town. From the quays you can see the pier and the sea- shore to the left. Now that you are at your hotel, there only remains to mention the pleasures and distractions which await you, and the most pleasant walks and drives. TROUVILLE-DEAUVILLE.— Although each of the names is that of a dififerent beach, yet Trouville-Deauville really forms one entity; it is really one town of which the two parts are joined by the bridge over the Tonques. People of fashion pass from one to the other, and in the evening at the Trouville Casino one may find the habi- tues of that of Deauville, and vice versa. Of the town itself there is not much to be said, as it does not contain any monument or curiosity of note, and a half-hour's stroll along the shore will make you better acquainted than would ten pages of description with the fashionable society which is the principal charm at this dainty watering place. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 2O9 PLEASURES AND DISTRACTIONS. Among the principal diversions at these resorts is fish- ing, which at Trouville has many followers. You may hire a fishing boat from one of the many boatmen at Trou- ville and go out in the open sea with a fisherman, who will take you to the best fishing-grounds, or you may be content to drop a line in the river. But the leading attraction of Trouville-Deauvile is its two Casinos, one at Trouville and the other at Deauville, which are the meeting places of fashion, either at the gam- ing tables, the ball-room, or in the theatre, where the best artists of Paris are to be heard. You can buy a ticket at either of these Casinos which permits you to visit the various apartments. The favorite time with sportsmen to go to Trouville- Deauville is the first half of the month of August, when, each year, on the Deauville racecourse, our best horses come to contend for the rich stakes. At this period the Compagnie de I'Ouest sends out a luxurious train, with buf¥et, which leaves Paris every morning at 9.25, arriving at Deauville at 1.15. After the races, at 5.50, the same train goes back to Paris, arriving at 10.02 in the evening. During the two weeks of the races pigeon shooting takes place in a field beyond the church, and always attracts a throng of enthusiasts. The excursions about Trouville are as numerous as they are varied. The best plan is to hire a carriage and give your coachman the route to follow. The hotel will furnish you with all information. Make your price with your coachman in advance, otherwise, after the fashion of his kind in America, he will charge you a lancy price. Donkeys are also much in favor at Trouville, and many young people prefer a ride on the back of one of these sturdy little animals to the more comfortable carriage. Following is a list of the principal drives: 1. To the chateau of Bonneville, returning by way of St. Arnoult. To visit the chateau a fee of 50 centimes is charged. 2. The drive along the coast, to Villers, Houlgate and Cabourg. 3. To Hontleur. 4. To the chateau of Hebertot. There are many other pleasant excursions, for this coast abounds in ravishing corners. There is also an excursion 2IO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE by water, from Trouville to Havre, which is most agreea- ble. The boat makes this trip in 45 minutes. The hotel will give you information as to the hours of departure and the rates. Leaving Trouville-Deauville behind you as you make out to sea, you behold a fine picture of the coast, with Cabourg and Houlgate in the distance. The steamer makes for the St. Adresse pifer, leaving Honfleur and Vil- lerville to the right. To the left of the harbor of Havre rises the great terrace of the Hotel Frascati, while prom- inent among the forest of masts which fills the basin are the great smokestacks of the ocean greyhounds. You should take advantage of this opportunity to visit the City of Havre, which is well worth the while. If you are in a hurry you may make this trip on your way back to Paris. The best trains to take are those leaving Havre at 6.45 p. m. and 8.15 a. m. If you wish to make this trip from Paris, these two trains, which are very well equipped, leave there at 8.15 a. m. and 6.52 p. m. These two trains have state and dining cars. And now let us visit the youngest sister of the queen of seaside resorts, Dieppe. I shall not repeat the information given at the beginning of this chapter, but will limit myself to mentioning the trains which go to this enchanting watering place. You may go to Dieppe by either of two lines, one by way of Pontoise, the other by way of Rouen; but as the Pontoise line has only "omnibus" trains, I would advise \ou to take the Rouen route. The latter trains stop a she i-t time at Rouen, which permits you to refresh yourself at the excellent buffet. Fast trains: 1.25 p. m., arriving 4.49 p. m., and 8.10 a. m., arriving 11. 4 a. m. Express trains: 8.15 a. m., arriving 12.4 p. m., and 9 p. m., arriving 12.23 P- ™- Through trains leave at 11.35 P- ™-, and 5.18 a. m. Rates: Single tickets, first-class, 18.80 fr., second-class, 12,70 fr. ; return tickets, good 4 days, first-class, 26 fr., sec- ond-class, 17.50 fr. ; return tickets, good 10 days, first- class, 30.10 fr., second-class, 20.30 fr. ARRIVING AT DIEPPE. Following are the best hotels: On the beach — Hotel Royal, Hotel Metropole et des Bains, Hotel du Rhin et de Newhaven, Hotel des Etrangers, Grand Hotel. In the town — Grand Hotel de la Gare, Hotel du Commerce. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 211 At the station yuu will tind hotel omnibuses, fare 30 cen- times, or cabs at 1.25 iv. the "course" and 1.75 fr. by the hour, tip not included. Dieppe is a delightful and very popular seaside resort, and is also a charming place to stop over a few days on your way from London, for Dieppe is the French port of the New Haven line. There is a celebrated Casino at Dieppe, but it is the race- course which particularly attracts the crowd. On race days a finely-appointed train leaves Paris at g.55 a. m., arriving at Dieppe at 1.31 p. m.; returning, leaves Dieppe at 5.30 p. m., and arrives at Paris at 9.10 p. m. The most interesting drives about Dieppe are to Le Pollet, Arques, Puys, Pourvillc, Varengeville, Berneval, St. Valery and St. Aubin. A little further on are Fecamp and Treport, but as these are themselves well-known resorts, I will speak of them more particularly. LE TREPORT To go to Treport you have your choice of two lines, either by the St. Lazare station, which we already know, or the Northern station — Gare du Nord. Following are the trains on each line: wi\ LAZARE STATION: 11.35 p.m. Dieppe 5.18a. m. Treport Mers 8.24a. m. 1 1.30 a. m. . 4.34 p. m. 6.22 p. m. 12.55 p. m. 6.55 p. m. 9.3 p. m. Rates: First-class 22.85 fr., second-class 15.40 fr. GARE DU NORD: Express 7.5 p. m., with dining car, arriving 10.33 P- ni- "Half-express," 10.23 p. m., arriving 5.20 a. m. "Half-express." 1.25 p. m., arriving 8.31 p. m. Omnibus trains, 11. 10 p. m., arriving 8.59 a. m., and 5.45 a. m., arriving 1.25 p. m. Rates: First-class 20.50 fr., second-class 13.85 fr. On arriving at the station at Treport you will find om- nibuses which will take you either to Treport or to Mers, The station is between these two resorts, which are twins, as it were, and each is equally popular. Following are the best hotels: Gr.-'.nd Hotel de France, des Bains, de la Plage; in town, Hotel de Calais, Hotel du Commerce, Hotel Terminus. 212 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE At both Treport and Mers there is a Casino and a bathing-beach, perfectly appointed. The excursions are nu- merous and varied. Carriages and donkeys are the means of transportation. I particularly mention the Chateau d'Ku, half hour from Treport; the property of the Orleans family and the residence for a long time of the Count of Paris. It can only be visited under special permit. FECAMP. On the opposite side there is another fashionable resort, Fecamp, on the western line — Chemin de fer de I'Ouest. Trains leaving Paris: Express — 8.15 a. m., arriving 12.52 p. m.; 1.25 p. m., arriving 5.13 p. m.; 6.52 p. m., arriving 11.20 p. m., and 11.3S p. m., arriving 5.10 a. m. Omnibus — 12.35 a- ™-, arriving 8 a. m. ; 8.20 a. m., ar- riving 2.46 p. m.; 12.55 P- ni., arriving 7.5 p. m. M Rates: First-class 24.85 fr., second-class 16.80 fr. ; return, 4 day tickets, first-class 30 fr., second-class 21.50 fr. ; return, 10 day tickets, first-class 35.85 fr., second-class 24.15 fr. On arriving at Fecamp, which is a very pretty resort, with casino, baths, etc., you will find at the station omni- buses from the principal hotels, which are as follows: Grand Hotel des Bains, de la Plage, d'Angleterre ; in the town: Hotel du Chariot d'Or, Ho: el Canchy. There is a tramway running between the casino and the valleys at the end of the town. The cliffs are very pic- turesque, and many little summer-houses are built among them. You must not miss visiting while at Fecamp the distil- lery of the Benedictine Brothers, which is in the town itself, where the famous liqueur which bears their name is made. You cart buy a ticket for 5 sous at the abbey. All the coast hereabout is filled with little resorts to which you can make excursions and picnics. For this pur- pose you have only to hire a carriage — agreeing on the price in advance. In connection with this summary description, we add, as follows, a list of excursions gotten up by the Compagnie de rOuest at reduced rates. Thee is to be found at Mers, as at the Treport, a casiro and a beach perfectly fitted up ; excursions there are numerous and of various characters, for which carriages or donkeys' backs are used. now TO SEE r-ARIS ALONE 2I3 Ex:oxJI^SI02s^s On. the Coasts of Normandy, Britaiiny and the Island of Jersey. Roundtrip Tickets available for One Month exclusive of the day of departure. l-isued from May 1st till October 31st, with optional stops at all the iatermediate Stations.* * The time for which these tickets are availablt can be extended by One Month on payment of a supplementary charge of 10 per cent. t The i^t, 2iid, 3d, 6th, 7th and nth Itineraries g've the passenger the Ojjiion, fiom the ist of June to the 30th of September, to make the crossing between Koien and Havre, in one direction, in one of the boats of the Company (it t)mnibiis Boats of Rouen, -without extra Charge J Lamballe or Saint-Brieuc on supplementary charge. FIRST ITINERARY. 1st Class : 50 Francs. — 2nd Class : 40 Francs. J'aiis ^ Rouen, Havre, by Rail. Les Andelys ^- Louviers ) or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t Fecamp, Etretat, Saint-Valery-en-Caux, Dieppe, Le Treport- Mers, Arques-la-Bataille, Gisors, Paris. SECOND ITINERARY. Ist Class: 50 Francs. — 2nd Class: 40 Francs. I'aris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Cony, St-Valery- en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail, Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t HonfleurorTrouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Paris. THIRD ITINERARY. 1st Class: 70 Francs. — 2nd Class: 55 Francs. Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Saint- Valery en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur Mer, Cherbourg, Paris. FOURTH ITINERARY. 1st Class: 80 Francs. — 2nd Class: 60 Francs. Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles, Tesse-la- Madeleine, Granville, Avran- ches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Para- me), Diiiard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitr^, Fougeres, Le Mans, Paris. 214 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE FIFTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 90 Francs. — 2nd Class : 70 Francs. Paris, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint- Michel, Saint- Malo, Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitr^, Fou- geres, Le Mans, Chartres, Paris. SIXTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 90 Francs. — 2nd Class : 70 Francs. Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Cany, Saint-Valery-en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint- Lo or Carteret, Granville, Bagnoles-Tess^-la-Madeleine, Briouze, Paris. SEVENTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : 90 Francs. Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Cany, Saint Valery-en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- \ gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Saint-Lo or Car- teret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitre, Fou- g^res, Le Mans, Paris. EIGHTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : 90 Francs. Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles-Tesse la-Madeleine, Granville, Avran- ches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Pa- rame), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Paimpol, Lannion, Mor- laix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans, Paris. NINTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : loo Francs. Paris, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Paimpol, Lannion, Morlaix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitr6, Fougeres, Le Maiis, Paris. HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 21$ TENTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : lOO Francs. — 2nd Class : So Francs. Le Mans, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carte- ret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint Malo, Saint-Servan (Parame), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Saint-Pol, Lannion, Morlaix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans. ELEVENTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : loo Francs. — 2nd Class : So Francs. Rouen, Cany, Saint-Valery en-Caux, Fecamp, Havre, by Rail, Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t Ilonfleur or Trouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, ' Saint-Lo or Carteret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Parame), Dinard, Dinan, t Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans, Lisieux, Rouen. TWELFTH ITINERARY. 1st Class: 6o Francs. — 2nd Class: 50 Francs. Angers (Saint-Serge), or Nantes (State), or Saint-Nazaire, or Redon, Chateaubriant, Vitre, Le Mont Saint- Michel, Granville, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan, Saint- Brieuc, Rennes, Chateaubriant, Angers (Saint-Serge), or Nantes (State), or Saint-Nazaire, or Redon. THIRTEENTH ITINERARY. 1st Class : 91 Francs. — 2nd Class : 71 Francs. Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles-Tess6-la- Madeleine, Granville, Jersey (Saint-Helier), Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Parame), Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan, Dinard, Dinan, Saint- Brieuc, Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans, Paris. FOURTEENTH ITINERARY. 1st Class: 71 Francs.— 2nd Class: 56 Francs. Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, Gran- ville, Jersey (Saint-Holier), Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Para- me), Dinard, Dinan, t Le Mont Saint-Michel, Dol, Rennes, Laval, Vitre, Fougeres, Caen. in a ■a _ m ■o M a OJ ■o ^ u c ■a 3 >^ •a .^ c o a c 'a a> ^^ 09 o (fl a> >> ■a CO I M I I I I ; I M I I I I I I I I I I I M I M I I I I I M I I I I I I I I II! II I I M II I II II M I M M I III : I 3.2 «. " <« 5 2> > "~ ». 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At this time there is a service on Mon- day. Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday. When we shall have given you a description of one of these steamships we shall practically have given you a description of all. The deck is reserved for passengers of the jirst and second class. There are numerous arm chairs at the dis- posal of the passengers, from which they can take in the charming panorama which unrolls itself before them. Un- der the deck is a, smoking room, supplied with tobacco of the best quality, and also beverages of the best sort, which the company offers to its patrons at prices lower than those of our Paris cofTee houses. A little further along is the Grand Salon, the dining room, with its long tables, where gayety always reigns, and finally below, on a level with the bullseye windows, the cabins where the berths are ready. You have a good half hour before the ship sails. You can use it either in strolling on the deck, look- ing at the equipment, or in attending to your correspon- dence and .sending off your telegrams. You need only give your letters or telegrams to the steward; he will see that they are sent off. You can also receive telegrams aboard; you have only to give your correspondents the following- address: A . . . destination (Algiers, Bone, Phillippeville, etc. . . .) Transat. Marseilles. And you may be sure that the telegram will be found on the table in the salon and you will have only to take it. For a letter it is just the same. A quarter of an hour before sailing you will see a boy w^alking around frantically ring- ing a large bell; this is the moment for the goodbys, for in a quarter of an hour the ship will have raised' her anchor, and in five minutes more the gangways will have been drawn in. The whistle will sound and only a single hawser will hold the ship to the quay. This is hauled aljoard and the ship starts. Slowly its screw turns over and it comes out of the basin of Joliette. Climb up on deck, if you are not already there, and take a look at the panorama which is disappearing. On the left the Forts Saint-Jean and Saint-Nicholas. At the entrance of the old port, above which you can see Notre Dame de la Garde: on the right along the Islands of Pomogue, Raton- neau. the Chateau of If, and further along the lighthouse 234 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE of the Planier; in another half hour the land is nothing but a gray streak, and we shall see it again only for a brief moment at the Baleares Islands, which we leave on the larboard hand. The next day at noon we begin to see the white coast of Algeria. All at once the fog vanishes and we make out Algiers, shining white, planted on a green hill in all its splendor; but before we get there we must pass Point Pescade, Saint Eugene, on the left Cape Metifou and Mustapha; then slowly the ship draws up alongside the bridge which overlooks the Boulevard of the Republic. The gangplank is run out and we are once more on terra lirma. It is useless to bother with your lug- .gage. The custom house inspection is tedious and it is best to send a porter from the hotel after the baggage. The first thing to do is to select a hotel, or rather select the omnibus which is to take you to the hotel of which you have already made a choice out of the following list^ Algiers. — Hotel de I'Europe, Hotel des Etrangers. Mustapha. — Hotel Splendide, Hotel Kirsch, Hotel Oriental, Hotel Continental. An important suggestion is not to allow yourself to be influenced or disturbed by the numerous natives, who will precipitate themselves forward to meet you. If you have a telegram to send off, it is best to have it carried from the hotel. In case you have letters to look for at the post office, it is located on the Boulevard of the Republic just beyond the square. In visiting Algiers, as in visiting any other city, it is best to take a general view of the whole; for that you require a carriage. The prices are: A trip in the lower part of the city, one franc; in the middle part, one franc and a half; in the upper part, two francs; by the hour, two francs. I am going to confine myself to a description of the most interesting parts of Algiers, those one ought to have seen. In my opinion, the Arab quarter, so characteristic of the country, should be seen first. That is where you find those old Moorish houses and those famous houses with grated windows which have been the subject of so many romances. There is also in Algiers a French quarter, in the lower part of the city; but there is nothing whatever attractive in it. In this quarter is to be found the Museum and the Library; also the Place du Gouverne- ment and the Palace of Justice. But all that, in my opin- ion, is not worth the local color. I would not, however, forget to mention the Mosque Djama-Djedid, the Rue Bab- el-Oued, and the Casbah, an ancient fortress, which was the palace of the Bey. It was in this palace that the Con- HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 235 sul of France received, in 1826, the famous blow with a fan which led up to the conquest of Algeria by the Due d'Aumale. As to your evening, you can pass it at the thea- tre; but I think it is much more curious to take a guide, wlio is indispensable in an Arab city, to visit the local dancing places and the fantastic doings of the Aissaouas. But make a price with your guide beforehand. They can- not be trusted and are always ready to trick the foreigner. EXCURSIONS OUTSIDE OF ALGIERS. Without taking account of the charming places to which the railway of the Est-Algerian will take you and of which you will find guides in every hotel, there are several promenades which can be made in a carriage: The summer palace of the Governor and the Col- umn of the Voirole, following the bay of Algiers and the mountains of Kabylie; then the promenade of Bad-el-Oued, Birkadem, which, although rather far, will delight you. One ought not to neglect to see Blidah and Cherchel, which are two of the most inter- esting points in the country. Here I bring to a close the first part of this Guide Book, which I have dedicated to the traveler. I hope that I gave at the beginning of the book all practical information for escaping the blunders of travel, and that I have pointed out to him all the objects of interest worthy of his attention and his interest. And if, as I hope, O traveler, you are coming with me to go through the vast display of the Exposition, I hope to point out for your admiration the wonders which Paris has gath- ered together in her inclosure, and at the same time to re- move all obstacles of travel from your way. ¥>' PQLAW ©E rElP©Sa¥QJ®W jyWQMEKilELlE ©E I Q!i)®!( ET Dl| sow ANNEXE DE VINCENNES D'APRES LES DOCUMENTS OEFICIELS ^ PART II. EXPOSITION Copyrighted, 1899, by Vte. de Keratry. I CHAPTER I. THE EXHIBITION. The method we shall use in this second part, will be ex- actly the same as the one used in the first, viz: Take the visitor by the hand, pointing out the facilities offered to hnn either as to mode of conveyance, restaurants or any other thing of current necessity, then draw his attention to the sites which require more particularly to be seen and last to guard him against any possible inconvenience or ennui; such will be our aim and to gain it, we shall act, to the letter, as we did in the first part of this work, starting with practical advice, then asking the reader to accom- pany us in a general ramble and thus enable him to find his way ill this immense maze. We shall afterwards describe the different zones and finish by pointing out carefully the attractions and curiosities the Universal Exhibition offers lo its visitors. PRACTICAL ADVICE. Means of Conveyance Ontslde the Exhibition. To go to the Exhibition or to return home, the main thing is to be acquainted with the means of locomotion offered to the public. Cabmen, either to go to the Exhibi- tion or from it, demand as a rule most exorbitant prices, and this causes one to fully appreciate the particular value of th- numerous lines of the General Tramway's Company which run to the different entrances. OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. The Monumental Gate is reached by street ear lines bearing these respective names: Bastille-Place de la Concorde.— Place de la Republique- Place de la Concorde.— Gare de I'Est-Place de la Con- corde.— Porte Saint-Martin-Place de la Concorde.— Pan- theon-Place Courcelles.— Passy-Hotel de Ville.— Louvre- Versailles. — Louvre-Boulogne-Saint-Cloud. — Hotel de Ville-Porte Maillot.— Etoile-Palais-Royal.— Gare du Nord- 4 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE Place de I'Alma. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. — Javel-Gare Saint- Lazare. — Gare des Batignoiles-Gare Monparnasse. — Gare de Lyon-Place de I'Alma. The Esplanade des Invalides is reached by: Palais-Eloyal-Ecole Militaire, Porte Saint-Martin-Gre- nelle on the side of Rue de Constantine. Saint Philippe du Roule-Vanves, near the Bridge of the Invalides. The Bridge of I'Alma is reached, at the corner of the rue des Nations by: Etoile-Gare Montparnasse. The Champ de Mars is reached, on the side of the Ave- nue de la Bourdonnais by: Quai Valmy-Porte Rapp. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. And on the side of the Avenue de la Motte-Picquet by: Saint-Philippe du Roule-Vanves.^Javel-Gare Saint- Lazarc. — Avenue d'Antin-Issy. — Palais Royal-Ecole Mili- taire. — Saint-Sulpice-Auteuil. — Vanves-Paris. The gate which leads to the French Colonies is reached by the tramway Loitvre-Versailles. The entrance facing the Trocadero, in front of the Madagascar Exhibition, connects by: Hotel de Ville-Passy. — Trocadero-Gare de I'Est. — Au- teuil-Madeleine. — Place Pigalle-Trocadero. — La Villette- Trocadero. The pont de I'Alma, where is to be found the Rue de Paris, is reached by: Place de I'Alma-Gare de Lyon. — Place de I'Alma-Gare du Nord. — Etoile-Montparnasse. — Place de la Chapelle- Pont de I'Alma. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. — Montmartre- Porte Rapp. — Passy-Hotel de Ville. — Louvre-Versailles. — Boulogne-Saint-Cloud. STEAMBOATS— OMNIBUS. A special service of Steamboats-Omnibus is run night and daj'^ to and from the Exhibition and stops at every bridge. Price: 30 centimes. THE METROPOLITAN (CITY RAILWAY). The Metropolitan reaches the Exhibition by three dif- ferent stations: One, Place de la Concorde at the corner of the Tuile- ies facing the Monumental Door; at the Champs- Elysees opposite the Grand Palace, and at the Troca- dero, close to the entrance of the Exhibition of Madagas- car. Respecting the fares and the time table of the Metro- politan we beg to refer the reader to page 191 (Part I). HOW TO SEE EXrOSITION ALONE 5 WESTERN RAILWAY (CHEMIN DE PER DE L'OUEST). A circle line starts from the Gare St. Lazare, to the Champ de Mars and to the underground station of the Invalides. First Class — 55 centimes. Second Class — 30 centimes. This line passes through: Batignolles, Courcelles, Porte Maillot, x\venue du Bois de Boulogne, Trocadero, Boulainvilliers, Champ ^ de Mars, Invalides. Apart from cabs, there are to be found generally a mul- titude of waggonnettes or other conveyances unworthy of commendation. Now that we are able to go as far as any of the doors of the Exhibition, it is necessary to find what the price of ad- mission may be. Money is not allowed to be taken at any of the turn- stiles, the visitor must pay with tickets purchased before- hand, either in tobacconists' shops, from salesmen in the the streets or from any stores where one sees written in very large letters at the door, or in any conspicuous place: "Vente de tickets d'Entree a I'Exposition." (Sale of Entrance Tickets for the Exhibition). The price varies almost every day, but on an average it is about 60 centimes; by buying twenty, one is able, of course, to obtain them a little cheaper. Whatever the price of the ticket may be, it will always be necessary to give up two tickets to enter the exhibi- ion before 10 a. m.; from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m., one ticket will be sufficient. After 6 p. m., two tickets will be needed except on Sundays or Feast days, when the price remains the same, viz: one ticket. On certain days, however, at certain hours, and according to a rule which the Adminis- tration has not yet established, probably on exceptional occasions, the Director of the Exhibition has the right to demand two, five, may be even ten tickets. MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION INSIDE THE EXHIBITION. Now we are within, let us study how to get about, with- out too that much fatigue, in this immense field opened to our curiosity. The principal difficulty for the management to solve, was to connect those two centres, so distant from one another, the Place des Invalides and the Champ de Mars. This problem was solved with ingenuity and va- riety, by movable platforms and an electric railway. These 6 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE Iwo lines, parallel to each other, but moving in opposite directions, run along the Quai d'Orsay, the rue Fabert, the Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, where they circle outside the Exhibition, and the Avenue de la Bourdonnais. The electric railway moves the same way as the hands of a watch. Each train is composed of a motor engine and two carriages. Fare: 25 centimes. Stations — Invalides (Rue Fabert j. Orsay (Foreign Powers). Orsay (War and Marine). Eiffel Tower and Palace of Electricity. The trains can run, if necessary, every 90 seconds. The line is sometimes elevated (7 metres high), some- times on a level with the ground and sometimes under- groutjd (speed, lo miles an hour). The moving platforms, 22 feet high, number three; one stationary and the other two moving; the first has a speed of 2^ miles an hour, the second 5. This arrangement has the double advantage of allowing visitors, active or otherwise, to pass suces- sivel}' from the stationary point to the maximum speed, and either to admire from the top of the balcony the de- tails of the panorama ofifered to their eyes, or to reach as quickly as possible any part of the circuit. The first plat- form takes 53 minutes to go all round, the second scarcely 26. Price, 50 centimes, without any limit of distance. As usual, there are to be found in large quantities, roll- ing chairs, which permit one to visit the Exhibition with- out faligue. These are very numerous, particularly at the Trocadero, '"Colonial Exhibitions;" for instance, the Chinese and Indian runners, the filanzanes, and other chairs used in foreign countries. Lastly, moving railings, composed of an endless carpet which rolls along on motor cylinders, allow one to pass insensibly and without any exertion whatever, from one floor to another. By subscribing 20 francs, one has the right to use them during the whole of the Exhibition. Price: 10 centimes per visitor. These tickets can be bought cheaper by taking a quan- tity. There are 27 of these moving railings. RESTAURANTS. More than once the time for lunch or meals will catch you in the midst of your peregrinations. It is therefore necessary to give you a list of the restaurants inside the Exhibition, and, as usual, I will do so according to prices. HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 7 EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS. At each end of the Pont Alexandre, on-the bank, French restaurant on right shore, foreign restaurant on the left shore; ail along the rue des Nations; in the pavilions of Turkey, Austria, Bosnia, Hungary, Norway, Germany, Spain and Greece; at the Champ de Mars, all along the central gardens and by the side of the Eififel Tower; bor- dering the Avenue de SufYren, the Munich restaurant; also ■close to the Eiffel Tower, to the Dress Palace, to the Tour de Monde, to the Swiss Cottage, to the Touring Club, to the Palais de la Femme, and at the Cineorama; at the Trocadero, on both sides of the Pont d'lena (right she re), at the British Indies, Egypt, China, etc. SECOND CLASS RESTAURANTS. Two in the annexes of the rue de Constantine; two in those of the rue Fabert, and in the annexes of Austria and Japan; on the Quai d'Orsay, the Roumanian restaurant near the Press Pavilion; at the Champ de Mars, all along the exhibits of linens and fabrics, civil engineering, also at the palaces of Mechanics and Chemical Industries; at the Trocadero, close to the pleasure boats Exhibition; all the restaurants in the rue de Paris, the Bouillons Duval are placed Quai de Billy, down the river, close to the narrow toot-bridge which connects the Vieux Paris to the Palace of War and Marine and at the Champ de Mars at the corner of the Avenue de SufTren and the Avenue de la Motte-Picquet. RESTAURANTS TABLE D'HOTE. La Belle Aleuniere, at the Trocadero, down the river and at the corner of the Pont d'lena: Breakfast. 4 francs; dinner 5 francs. There is one at each of the corners of the Champ de Mars, another in the middle of the Avenue de Suflfren and the last between the pleasure boats Exhibition and the Vieue Paris. Lastly let us mention about one hundred ALIMENTARY KIOSKS, or BOOTHS, and as a curiosity the special sites put at the disposal of those desirous to eat in the open. POST OFFICES, lELEGRAPHS AND TELE- PHONE INSIDE THE EXHTBllTON. It will not be necessary for you to leave the Exhibition to communicate with anyone or attend to bu.sinegs. HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE The Post Office authorities have made a careful selec- tion in their already selected staff. Eighty chief operators and clerks, together with 175 sub-agents and postmen, at- tend to the wants of the public from 7 a. m. to 11 p. m. The main office is close to the gate of the Avenue de la Bourdonnais, opposite Avenue Rapp. Branch offices are situated: Pont dTena; Avenue de Suffren, close to the Big Wheel; Pont de I'Alma, facing the Palace of Con- gress; Quai d'Orsay; on the Esplanade des Invalides, at the corner of the rue Fabert; at the Grand Palace of Fine Arts, and at the Cours-la-Reine. A telegraph office is situated on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower. An- other office has also been established in the Annex of Vincennes behind the Charenton Cemetery. The subscription to the telephone is 300 francs for the whole of the Exhibition, 150 francs for six months and 25 francs more per month above that period, but the useful- ness of this service is, in reality, only felt by the exhibitors. Fifty public call offices are at the disposal of anyone, who, by paying 20 francs, will immediately receive a card of admission entitling the bearer to use those offices when- ever they are opened. BANKING AND EXCHANGE FACILITIES AT THE EXHIBITION. You will even be able to carry out your banking opera- tions within the precincts of the Exhibition. The Comptoir National d'Escompte has opened, for that purpose, at the Champ de Mars, corner of the Southern Pillar of the Eiffel Tower, a handsomely and elegantly furnished pavilion, together with telegram room, salon of correspondence, telephonic cabin, exchange office; in one word, everything which makes the features of the head office of this well known social establishment. Rue Ber- CHAPTER II (GENERAL REVIEW, Before going into a detailed description of the visit to each Palace, it seems to me to be in the interest of the reader to make a general survey of the whole, to the end that he may always be able to locate himself in the midst of this vast display while visiting, in detail, later on, all parts of this veritabe city by itself. I am going to divide this general view into two days (but inasmuch as we shall begin the second day where we left off the first), it is evi- dent that the whole can be done in one day if the visitor prefers. If, at the end of, or during the first day, you should so desire to make a more extensive examination of the attractions along your route, you have only to refer to the description in one of the next chapters, where, in its proper place, everything is taken in turn. FIRST DAY. Drive to the Place de la Concorde about lo in the morn- ing. Here is the principal entrance to the Exposition, called Porte Monumentale because of its very large dimen- sions, but also known as Porte Binnet, from the name of the distinguished architect who designed it. It consists of three arches holding up a gilded dome. It covers about five hundred and fifty square -yards and is capable of shel- tering two thousand people. It is tianked to the right and to the left by two towers, which throw electric rays over the city. In the evening the appearance of the whole, sparkling with many-colored lights, is fairylike. The bas-reliefs on the gate, which are the work of Guillot, are worthy to be admired. Once within the inclosure of the Exposition we find ourselves in a vast shaded way (the old Cours-la-Reine), whose borders have been transformed into a monstrous and marvelous exhibition of horticulture, which will be renewed each season. This floral display continuing as far as the entrance to the Bridge des Inval- ides, of which we shall speak later on, harmonizes with the horticultural decoration of the new palaces of the Champs Elysee'i, and its annexes continue as far as the intersection of the Avenue d'Antin with the Champs Elysees. %r :>^^^^^\9*^m-samm. ■:■..■ ^M? .»-") .vililltlMIIIIIMI-l The Palaces of the Champs-Elysees and Exposition, viewed from the Bridge Alexandre III. HOW" TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I I A few hundred yards farther along this shaded way is crossed by the Avenue Nicolas II., which connects the liridge Alexander III. on your left with the Avenue des Champs Elysees on your right. We shall return later to this bridge; at present let us turn to the right and go up the Avenue Nicolas II. as far as the gate which opens on the Champs Elysees. And now turn and look at the marvelous spectacle which offers itself; at the end of the avenue the lofty dome of the Invalides lifts itself majestically, its gilded surface respond- ing brilliantly to each ray of the sun, while on each side the two Palaces of Industry, which border this avenue, shine out in pure white, while nearer to you rise the pylons of the Bridge Alexander III. Close by you, to left and right, rise those two palaces whose brilliantly-colored pic- tures attract your attention. On the right is the large pal- ace, whose entrance is from the Avenue Nicolas II. The colonnade in front suggests that of the Louvre. A truly imposing appearance has been given to the principal entrance by M. Girault, architect, the sides below are orna- mented with a frieze by Mr. Fournier: Art's Figures; those on the sides are executed by celebrated artists, rep- resent the different arts; at the two extremities of the fagade other gigantic groups, the Quadrigas, represent Im- mortality preceding Time and Harmony ruling Discord. The Grand Palace is in the general shape of a geometri- cian's T, and its three distinct parts have been treated by three separate artists, under the direction of Mr. Girault, The principal fagade, of which we have just spoken, is the work of Mr. Deglane. The facade in the rear, on the Ave- nue d'Antin, is by Mr. Thomas. Do not overlook the frieze in pottery from the factory at Sevres, after drawings by Joseph Blanc and representing the History of Art down through the Ages; finally, the gate allotted to Mr. Louvet is Median and forms a symmetrical union of the two others. In this palace are two sorts of expositions, one reserved for French and foreign artists, the other, on the right, to the Centennial Museum. If now we go back towards the left the Little Palace is the next thing to attract our atten- tion. The proximity of these two palaces, very pleasing to the eye when separately considered, has been made the subject of much criticism, but an intelligent Cicerone, as was remarked at the beginning of this work, keeps strictly within his province when he points out objects especially worthy of attention. I shall confine myself to saying: Ob- serve, study, compare. By the side of this great palace. View from the Avenue Nicolas II. HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I 3 majestic in its structure, is a work of art by Mr. Girault. The Little Palace affects the shape of a trapeze. Its basis is the Monumental Frontage, which serves as En- trance, and the back looks toward the "Jardin des Euiler- ies," whilst the sides look respectively on the Cours La Reine and the Avenue des Champs Elysees. The Entrance is an imposing structure, with an opening, 15 metres wide, with a staircase of twenty steps. Notice the finish of the Principal Door, work of Injalbert; groups of the Seine and the Seasons. Do not forget the bass reliefs (bas-reliefs), by Hughes, and the Clock, ornamented with figures of Hector Lemaine representing: Night and Day together with the Three Fatal Sisters. Now let us go back as far as the Bridge Alexander HL, and follow the banks of the Seine through those magnifi- cent beds of flowers and plants. After crossing the Bridge of the Invalides we shall soon be in the Rue de Paris. The pavilion of the city of Paris, which lies on the right, while the Bohemian restaurant is on the left, is the first object which will excite your curiosity. On the scrolls of the first story one can follow the various changes which the arms of the city of Paris have undergone since the year 1200; above, on the frieze, we find represented the different bodies of craftsmen; close by we see the Garden of Chan- son, and, finally, a little farther along we come to the fa- mous Aquarium, which belongs to the Pavillion of Horti- culture and Arboriculture, while on the right hand side of the street succeed, one after another, the attractions of the Rue de Paris: la Maison du Rire, les Tableaux Vivants, le Chat Noir and la Roulotte; then, before we get to the Grand Guignol and to the Bonshommes Guillaume, a series of borders and of gardens forming a part of the an- nexes of the exhibition of horticulture. The Palace of Horticulture, which encloses between the two wings of which it is composed the Aquarium of Paris, consists of two halls in glass united by a garden in the form of a terrace, which is reached by a stairway, this latter ending in a terrace running along the Seine, and where are located the conservatories (hot-houses), coffee-houses and bars. Farther along, on the same side with the Pavillion of Horticulture and of Arboriculture, is the Palace of Dancing, opposite to the Gay Authors, the Manoir a I'envers. the Theatre of Loie Fuller and the Grand Guignol. The Palace of Congresses and of Social Economy is next neighbor to the Palace of Danc- ing, and suggests a bringing together of diametrically op- posite extremes, since side by side with the handsome I iJi'iJH!; General view of the Alexander III. Bridge. now TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE '15 (lancers arc lodged the learned gentlemen who have come 10 discuss the future welfare of nations. The aspect of this monument of learning is far from bringing up the idea of gavety. Its cube of a severe white appearance is made up of three niches, with three bays, each separated by two pillars, its sole ornament being a series of busts of the economists of the last century. We are now at the Bridge of Alma, where are situated two large gates of the Expo- sition. There is a foot-bridge here, above the bridge, which will enable you, if you choose, to reach the Rue des Nations, on the other bank of the river. For the present let us continue along the right bank, and as soon as we shall have passed the Place of Alma by means of the footbridge thrown across the large bridge, we shall find ourselves in front of Old Paris. For a length of 600 yards we shall see, one after another, reconstruc- tions of the houses and the monuments of ancient Lutece. Now, after having passed the French restaurant, we find ourselves on the bank of the Seine in front of the exhibi- tion of pleasure yachts and behind us the pavilion of the Boards of Nautical trade. We have now reached the animated trips (voyages ani- mes). We shall mention them again in the chapter: "Le Trocadero." When we have passed the Colonial Restaurant we come to the Bridge of lena, which connects the Trocadero, where the Colonial Exhibition is, with the Champs de Mars, which apart from the numerous curiosities grouped about the Eififel Tower is completely filled with large palaces. During this first promenade we sliall stay on the right bank of the Seine, and shall give our time to the Trocdero. The Colonial Exhibition, both French and foreign, is lo- cated wholly in the Garden of the Trocadero. It is not necessary to give here any detailed description, for the reason that farther along in this volume is a chapter wholly given up to the Trocadero, whose buildings in such varied forms and different styles deserve more than a single visit. Still I will ask you to observe now before you to the right and the left two structures brilliantly white. They are the two Pavilions of .\lgcria: the one on the right is the offi- cial i);iviIion. A little farther along to the left i>f the un- official Algerian exhibition is the Tunisian. .\t the end is the Grand Palace of the Trocadero, by the side of which, on the left, is the exhibition of .-Asiatic Russia, while behind this last, and not visible from where you stand, is a moving platform, which takes you to the exhibition of Madagascar. Palace of Civil Engineering, HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I 7 Let it suffice to say now that the Gardens of the Troca- dero, where the whole colonial display is grouped, are given up on the right hand side (as you face the monument of the Trocadero on the bridge) to foreign colonies, and on the left hand side to French colonies. A large subterranean f^allery, near the monument of the Trocadero, has afforded cppor!.unity for a subterranean mining exhibition, entrance t Each one of their four fronts represent a dif- ferent style of habitation. In the pavilion on the north are shown models of encampment, fortifications, ethno- graphic exhibits, mineralogical and agricultural exhibits. On the floor below the Japanese dancers and the musicians enable you to study the style of amusements in that coun- try. Taking the Avenue of Jena, which crosses the central TRANSVAAL. alley, we find ourselves at once in front of the principal pavilion of the Transvaal, containing exhibitions of the government, ethnographic collections; showing the prog- ress of the Republic of South Africa and the products of the country. Behind, a Boer farm of primitive construction, with all the details of the dwelling house, the principal room, the kitchen and the ovens for baking bread, the dining room, sleeping room and stable. Two other pa- vilions are given up to the mining industry. In the first the mill, or Boccardage, where the rock is crushed; in the other, the dififerent treatments of amalgamation and the cyanide process. The walls without are covered with sta- tistical pictures, interesting as attesting the importance of the production of gold in this country, and the coveted riches, so hard to defend, which still lie buried in its depths. Let us go down below to see the gallery of a mine with the shaft for the extraction of the ore, and a gallery for car- rying it. After the Transvaal, in the midst of the gardens, let us visit the Portuguese colonies. They have no special type of architecture, yet they are original. There are to be PORTUGUESE COLONIES. found samples of the chief products of the Portuguese col- onies and those of Portugal itself, which did not find room enough on the Quay d'Orsay for their exhibition. By the side of this let us notice the Pavilion of the Oranges. On HOW TO SKF, EXPOSITION ALONE ^J MISSIONS. llie other side, near the Avenue of Jena, the Pavilion of ihe Missions groups the colonial work accomplished by the religions orders in the entire world. On the ground door six dioramas, painted by Amable and Halle, represent the missions at Tonkin, in China, in Senegambia, Madagas- car, in Oceanica. Up one llight the principal hall contains historical souvenirs, collections, specimens of scholastic work or of other kinds In order not to come back into I his out of the way place, let us point out that in going be- hind the wing of the Trocadero there is to be seen an ex- liibit of the coal mines of France, very curious to see, with their mining shafts, which give you an illusion of the real; COAL-PITS The whole of this extremely interesting Exhibition is subterranean. Entrance, i franc. It represents a Coal-Pit, with all its means of locomo- tion, the miners' work inside the Pit, and also some Etrus- can Tombstones; in fact, this Exhibition is a reconstitution of everything connected with subterranean digging. LIGHT HOUSES. Situated at the corner of the Trocadero, behind Rus- sian Asia, the Light-Houses' Exhibition has also and prin- cipally a restrospectixe exhibition. First of all is repre- sented the Light-House from the He Vierge, facing the Abberw'rachjopposite the Hoiel des Anges, in the bay itself at the confluence of the English Channel and the Atlan- tic; that island enjoyed for a time a certain reputation on account of the large quantity of rabbits who dwelt here. At the side is Mount Saint-Clair's Light-House and all the instruments and apparatus employed at Saint- Mathieu and Lizard. In fact all the models of Light- Houses with revolving lights and projections. The retrospective exhibition begins with the Cordou- an's Light-House, and thus enables us to follow the series of improvements and transformations of revolving and floating lights, resuming in their whole, all the modifica- tions and uses of Light-Houses since they have been to navigators and seafaring men of such serious utility. EGYPT. Having seen all that is interesting, let us resume our visit at the Avenue of Jena, on the corner of Rue Magde- bourg. Here the Egyptian palace attracts our attention. Preceded by a vast open space, where the sphynx and obel- HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 39 isks rear themselves, it is arranged in a style which recalls the temples of ancient Egypt. The principal facade was inspired by the Temple of Dandour, the lat- eral and posterior fagade ' reproduce the Tem- ple of Philoe, with some designs trken from Karnak and Abydos. Let us enter by the imposing door. Behind you see a rectangular portico, with columns, a covered gallery around a vast court yard, where are found displayed the agricultural and mjmufactured prod- ucts, the objects of art, the manuscript, the weapons, etc., of Egypt and of the Soudan. At the other end a stairway shape or form, with its hues and designs ever changing and occupying a more important stand than the one allotted previously to that work on the first floor; fur- ther on we come across a new transformation, I mean the Ceramic, which shows us in a most convincing manner that public buildings can be thus decorated at a minimum of cost. We have now passed into Class 70, which immediately follows the first. It contains everything connected with furnishir.g, carpets, tapestry, hangings, furniture, etc., etc. We even notice there the manufacturing materials used for those rich and valuable hangings and in which our 88 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE Parisian dry goods stores are second to none; besides tissues, pi-operly speaking, we notice that an exhibition of carved, embossed and plain leather, used in the covering of chairs, etc., has found a very important place, and I will also add ,that the house in which the author of this Guide has its aparments, Le Lineoleum, 23, Boulevard des Italiens, has succeeded in presenting a show of its goods well worth noticing, not only on account of the finish, style and refinement, but also for the cheapness of its manufactures. THE GREAT DRY GOODS STORES. We must now leave the Principal Palace to look at and admire those Large Exhibitions presented by our great Parisiati stores, and which excel in showing their magnifi- cent goods and call forth the admiration not only of for- eigners, but— Parisians themselves, however much accus- tomed they may be to refined and handsome displays. The Louvre, the Bon-Marche, the Printemps, have re- constituted a marvellous Palace of Fashions. Entering the Grand Palace once more, we shall face all the models for lighting purposes, in all their shapes, form? and patents. Electricity is not, however, included in this Exhibition, as this mode of lighting is confined to its special palace: The Palace of Electricity. Vincennes (should you list to follow us there) will give us a better and larger idea of the new invention: "The Acetylene," where it can boast of having one of the foremost shows in that Annex. I shall not speak of Petroleum and its uses. Since "Oil" has been struck, it has had such a widespread fame that it wc uld be perfectly usless to worry the reader with any details about it, being well known by all, from the most civilized countries to the roughest and farthest; be- sides its progress for the last ten years has been so small and few, that all our readers must be perfectly aware of almost all its improvements; nevertheless, a glance at the very few new processes may prove of interest. Whilst we are still on the ground floor, allow me to mention Class 74, Apparatus and Models and Process for Heating and Ventilation. There are but very few repre- sented here, however, as they are more specially con- nected with Social Economy and Hygiene, where they fig- ure pron:inently. Before looking over the department reserved to cheap HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 89 furniluix. which is placed at the end of the Palace, it would be more rational and practical to ascend at once to the first floor and admire the models exhibited by Tapes- trj' in general; that is to say, the work and decoration for luxuriouo furniture, for instance, drawing-rooms, ante- rooms, bedrooms, boudoirs (that very sanctum of woman), and study, nay, admire, the most perfect taste employed in the decorations of reception rooms and ball rooms, where everythin,-^- blends and harmonizes so well, and is calcu- lated to set forth to the better effect the dresses and adorn- ments of ladies, an art in which our Parisian firms so thoroughly excel; also the bedrooms, this apartment of "la Vie Intime," which deserves our praise as well as the boudoir style Louis XVI., the snuggest of all places. At the side we find an industry, one of the largest and most important in France, one to which we are indebted for breaking the uniformity and monotony of the walls in our apartments! I have mentioned the wall papers brought by the French artists to such a high degree of refinement. Further on, still on the first floor, we see the Stained Glass Windows. Often, when visiting churches, we have remained in ecstasy before those magnificent stained win- dows representing Christ, the Apostles, the Stations to Calvary, etc., but nowhere shall we find stained glasses with warmer tones, with more delicate finish and execu- tion than those which will meet the visitors' eyes at the Paris Exhibition of 1900; for they are in every way worthy of Bernard Palissy, this clever and famous artist. There remains to be seen the cheap furniture and costly articles, both exhibitions will be worthy your attention for the whole of the firms in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine have endeavored to vie with one another. I have already told you that the Palace opposite is re-, served to Foreign Exhibits, symmetrical to the French, which wc have just described. In the first two rooms of the Palace, on your right, are gathered the Ceramic, already seen on the ground floor, and further on, glass wares and stained glasses. We must not leave the Palais des Tnvalides without casting a glance on the three stalls bordering the Rue de Constantine. First is the "Mas Provengal." renowned res- taurant cf Southern France, reputed for its good table and harmonious and melodious singing: a little further on is the "Maison Arlesienne;" useless to enter into great or numerous details, when the word "Aries" is pronounced, we ar^ every one of us well aware of its meaning; respect- 90 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE ing the "Auberge des Cadets," to present it to you in an adequate manner, it would be necessary that I should call to contribution Coquelin Aine, the famous Cyrano de Ber- gerac. I had much rather let you enter it alone and judge for yourself. Xhe Guide to the Exhibition is ended; before closing these pages, which may perhaps have appeared to you, either too long or too insufficient, allow me, reader, to re- peat anevv my request made at the end of the first part of this work: Point out to me all the mistakes or omissions, and in either case, to forgive me. Remember the days when my Guide has been of service to you, and has saved you from imprudence and ennui. VICOMTE H. DE KERATRY. SUPPLEMENT. ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE THE EXHIBITION. All round the Exhibition are to be found a great many private enterprises, which, although not within the pre- cincts of the Great Show, are nevertheless curious and in- teresting to see. The most important of all is the one connected to the Exhibition by a foot-bridge. THE SWISS VILLAGE. The foot-bridge connecting the village with the Exhibi- tion is in the Palace of Agriculture (Machinery Gallery of 1889), Champ de Mars. Entrance, i franc, and i franc extra should you wish to see the Panorama of the "Alpes Bernoises." A whole Swiss village has been erected on the ground of a superficies of 21,000 metres. We will find there a dairy, a creamery, a Swiss Chalet where we can listen to the melo- dies of the Highlanders whilst drinking milk; further on is the historical Inn of Bourg Saint-Pierre, where, according to History, Napoleon stopped when crossing the Mount Saint-Bernard. Close by we find: THE BIG WHEEL, Erected Avenue de SufTren at the corner of the rue Du- pleix. Entrance, i franc. The Big Wheel is placed in a beautiful garden surround- ed by several places of amusements. Should you care to take a trip in the Wheel, in one of the small wagons at- tached to it, on payment of i franc extra, you will be able, at an altitude of 106 metres, to have a magnificent and in- teresting bird's-eye view of all the surroundings. 92 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE THE PAVILION RODIN. The Rodin Exhibition, mentioned on the map, is situ- ated at the corner of the rue Montaigne and rue Jean Goujon close to the Pont de I'Alma. It contains the whole of the works of the celebrated sculptor; who attracted so much attention in the artistic world, on account of the famous statue of Balzac, rejected some time ago, as a result of the violent polemics it created amongst the members of the Literary" Men's Society, who had entrusted the execu- tion of the statue to the renowned sculptor. There are also to be found: The Panorama of Rome; Rue Jean Goujon. Entrance, I franc. Vesuvius in Paris; 24 Rue de la Federation. Entrance, I and 2 francs. A living Pompeii; also Rue de la Federation. Entrance, I franc. L'Hippocycle; Avenue de Sufifren. Entrance, 50 cen- times. A Cairo Street; 26 Avenue de Suffren. Entrance, 50 centimes. - The Cour des Miracles; Avenue de Suffren. Entrance, I franc. And many others too long to enumerate. Before ending this Chapter, allow me to advise you to visit the Magnificent Panorama of the Revolution, work of the eminent painter, M. Poilpot, and situated. Boulevard Delessert, close to Door 33 of the Exhibition. ANNEX OF VINCENNES. Traction and Locomotion not having had sufficient space allotted to therh in the Palace du Champ de Mars, the greatest and the most important part of thos two Exhibi- tions has been placed at Vincennes. First of all, permit me to mention the different ways to reach this Annex. First, we have the Metropolitan, which takes us to the door of Vincennes (see page 191); the inner circle (alight at Reuilly), and the Electric Car (Place de la Bastille et de Charenton). The most practical way would be, by far, to take a cab which will take you to Door 7 of the Annex. The same rule as for the Great Show prevails here; no money is accepted at the turnstiles, and tickets only, pur- chased beforehand, will secure your admission. HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 93 RAILWAY MATERIALS. VVc find, iirst of all, an Exhibition of Railway Materials, with special pavilions afifected to Germany and Austria. Italy and Belgium. Leaving the shooting galleries on one side (long-bows and cross-bows), we reach the Tools, Ma- chines, Brooding apparatus, and finally the United States Exhibition. Above and next to Roumania. is the "Acety- lene," side by side with all the machinery connected with motors, and there, almost joining the preceding one, a complete Exhibition of Motor Cars and Cycles. The fam- ous "Velodrome Municipal" is situated between the sec- tions Tools and Machines and that of Motors. It is there that during the whole of the Exhibition will be decided the greater part of sporting matches. At the end of Lake Daumesnil, close to the Cycle's Ex- hibition, we find an annex of the Army and Marine, pre- ceding the park of the Aerostation, where all competitions amongst Aeronauts will take place. A little above on the Pavilion of the Lake itself, we have the Falconery Exhibi- tion connected with the Aviculture. On the opposite shore are ihe Forests, with a Pavilion specially reserved to the United States, and right against the sidings of Motor Cars and Cycles. Above a large place has been set apart to the Department of Agriculture for an exhibition of all reproductive animals, including even the wing tribe of the farm-yard. Last of all, close to the Door 7, we find on the skirts of the lake the Panorama of the Tour du Monde, whilst close by is the Philanthropic Society with an exhibition of all the apparatus and instruments for Saving Life. By consulting the daily papers, you will find all the de- tails relating to the matches, competitions, races, etc., which will daily take place on the grounds of the "Velo- drome Municipal." TABLE OF CONTENTS. Practical Advice CHAPTER I. CHAPTER II. 3 General Review g First Day g Second Day 17 CHAPTER in. Palaces of the Champs-Elysees 23 CHAPTER IV. 1 The Right Shore of the Seine from the Pont des Invalides to the Trocad^ro 27 CHAPTER V. The Trocadero . 33 CHAPTER VI. All Around the Eiffel Tower 49 CHAPTER VII. The Palace of the Champ-de- Mars 60 CHAPTER VIII. The Rue des Nations 70 CHAPTER IX. The Esplanade des Invalides 85 SUPPLEMENT. Attractions Outside the Exhibition 91 Annex of Vincennes 92 OCIETE fENERALE DE f UBLICITE POLVGLOTTE Pierre GRATEROLLE DiRECTEUR p/kBis 31, Bue du 4-Septembre, 81 r La Sociele Generale de Publirile Polyglolte est Seule Concessiou- naire de la publicite des Guides PRHIS-EXPOSITIOII 1900 jParis ^NIVERSEL I paraissant simultanempnt a Paris. Londrea, Berlin et, Xeiv-York, en trois lansues : francais, anglais, allemand. Preface de Jules CLARETIE [dite par la Maison CHARr ENTIER FASQUELLE '"et important ouvragp. publie ROUS la direction du \" de KERATRY. est mis en Vfnte par l"s soins de la Maison Eugene FASQUELLE. dans tout<-s les Liluairios de Fianr-e et de_ rKtran^er et dans les Biblio- iheques des gaies de chemins de fer. Telepho7ie : 212-83 Adresse telegr. : Guidnat-Paris KOTA : Pour facjlitcr les reclicrches dps annniires des Maisons roooniniandcos, coiisiilter la Table des Matieres a la fin du Volume (pages coulours). i ' '' J LA TOILETTE HYGIENE DE LA FEMME LA TOILETTE LINGERIE, GANTERIE I ^^^j^ _^ , GHJlpE PISOS DE BMllG '*^ 6, Boul. des GapuGines -« Pahis J. LOU VET & SES FILS Toiles, Linge de Table, Rideauz, Lingerie, Mouchoirs, Chemises> Bonneterie, Ganterie, Couvertures, Trousseaux et Layettes. Telas, Lopa de mesa, Cortinas, Lenceria, Pannelos, Camisas, Boneteria, Guanteria, Frazadas, Ajuares et Canas- tillas. Linen, Table-Clothes, Curtains, Drapery, Handkerchiefs, Shirts, Hosiery, Gle^ves, Blankets, Outfits and Baby linen. MAKUFACTUKE A A-lGiJ^-I'XHUIL TELEPHONE GRANDE MAISON DE BLANC | GRANDE MAISON DE BLArfC J, LOUVET ET SES FILS J. LOUVET & ©.ij()nf. ' IIojoTHo. CrojoBoe 'fitJbe. 3aua- Dtcbi. Bt^be. ILiaxKii. PJfiatuKii. Bii- , , . ^.,, „ . . , .., saiiHbw iisAtiifl. nepqaxKH. Oitn^a. Seinwniib, iEifrfjjdig, SBotMiij*, 8n6wa6piiKa bt. Argenteiril. - \ SnOiif in Argenleuil. 4f^« ~ LA TOILETTE LES CORSETS (har a\/el CORSETS 1 4/. rue S'JTluguslin, PARIS """* IJobes de Chambpe Blouses et Ijingerie CORSET-JUPON & CULOTTE-CORSET DIANE MODELES DEPOSES Telephone : 2 3 5-8 g. English spoken. oAlan spricht Deutsch. '^"^"-'-^ 3, place Du Theatre- Frao. « LeMPEBECn oe nussie 49> boalevafd Haussmann 38, poe Caamaptin T^LEPWONE 256,07 Sp6cialit6 de LIVREES ROBES & MANTEAUX L. TOUSSAINT GiiEMENCE VflSSEUR SUCCESSEL k 57, r»e S.iint-Rocii, 5; (avenue de lovlua) ^izri^s - ^ : <► +- J <• -K ¥ ^ 12, Rue Auber, 12. — PARIS iA LENTRESOL; LADI{)S TAILOfi '^^ Seu/e Afa/SOA) dans Paris faisant /e Costume-Tailleu/' entierement doubl6 sole et sur mesure k "iStS francs. JAQUETTE DOUBLEE SOIE, 7S FR. Les Commaades sont executees par un des premiers Coupeurs de Paris lifllSON RECOWMAUDfiB & UNIQUE DANS SON GENRE LA TOILETTE AMAZONES J. TALON (Place Saift.fe-Augvjsfcan) -^ — ^ PARIS -^^ • ^ma^ones ^-AMERICAN ORDERS . LA TOILETTE ROBES ET MANTEAUX Liingerie ^ 'H N^E KERTEUX [ij PARIS — 37, Rue des MathurlTis ■4- Ladies Costumes. Dauieii Keider. Mantles and Linen. | Mautel und Wasfhe. .:fi^nf^fif^''^ipf^vp^:f^^f^fjY¥¥W'^^TVWT^^^ iOBES & ^ANTEAUX Modeles exclusifs ' 1?^, rue "Roquepine ROBfiS J)0U6n££§ D£ SOIE. DEPUIS 150 FRANeS ROBES DE STYLE DeuVV sur Mesuve en "VO \vewpeft ENGLISH SPOKEN SPECIALITE DE I\OBES de BAL LA TOILETTE COSTUMES TAILLEUR (S^^T-a) Ex-Coupeur des G.randes Maisons de la ru8 de la Paix TELEPHONE aSO-OO SP:eGIALITE DE ROBES & COSTUMES TilLLEUR ■.iss',. Anglais, Allemand.R-usse. Tailleur Viennois 10, pue de la P^pini^re ^nri^ LA TOILETTE COSTUMES TAILLEUR Ci-dfViinl, Vhct du Thtiali-e-Francais 9, RUE DE L'ECHELLE. 9 Pres I'Avenue de I'Opera . .. PARIS Costumes elegants de Ville et de Voyage pour Dames et Messieurs SPECIALITE DE COSTUMES GENRE TAILLEUR POUR DAMES Coupes et Modeles de la Maison LA TOILETTE ILLEUR POUR HOMMES — FOURRURES w r"W' 0- fc ' k '1 X .i. 2S. iJS^.^^ ^Uj. J Specialite , JAQOETTESi DAMES EN TOUS GENRES >f5: *^^ DIPLOME D'HONNEUR, — M^OAiLLE D'OR |^* Reparations EH TOUS GE?(RES Prjv mocl6p68 5, FflOBOURG IBONTI^IflRTRE Pris du boulevard Montmartre) GONSERYATION d^ FOURRURES pendant J'4l4 LA TOILETTE L'HYGIENE EAU DE SUEZ DENTIFRICE ANTISEPTIQUE -^ VACCINE DE LA BOUCHE Preserve les Dents, les Cuerit, les Conserve, Rafraichit et Parfume la Bouche. ^- EST - VINAIGBE LACTE OE SUEjK pour la TOII.ETTE POUORE ET PATE DENTIFRICES de SUEZ EXTRAIT ( Teat U mondt jaiiant jail ju< Ja tiluparl iet ientifriecs lont des lipiides [arfumesl 1ti QPin/ir'h \ """ frepriile curative; t'rute, fHa^H do Suez, dentifrice antiseptigue, est un\ & W**' ^ I virilai'.i midicament gui prtfTve Ut Jtthlt, Itt^uiril. lis conserve. I 'd4p4t GBiriRAL : Ptiarmaele B^X%.A.I<,'14, Rue de la Paii, PARIS, et da\s les bovnes maiso. s. Maison Sp^iale d'Eaux de Beaute i. li'Eiiu DEHlWOPHlIiE & IiAIS Faitdisparaitre : rougeurs, boutons, ger^ureset riSea R«ffermit et developpe la poitrine -^ SEUL INVENTEUR : DE JVIOl^A ^^ ■ 1 8, rue des Capucines, PARIS XVHl LA TOILETTE ONDULATIONS - POSTICHES eOIFFURE: Pour Dames SPECIALITE DE POSTICHES ET COIFFURES POUR DAMES n PERRUQUES SALONS D'ONDULATION TEINTURE 'ant 1 SEPT 1 QUE SHL-^MPOOXNa IjOyFaubouzg St-Honot^, ^o - . ,i\ % , . , PARIS XIX PHOTOGRAPHIE PORTRAITS — CARTES D'IDENTITE PMOTOGi^APHIE Edouard R0Z£ 29, Boulevard des Italiens. — Paris Installation de l" ordre — Salons St Cabinets de toiletta r^serv^s APERQU OU PRiX CQURAHT Carte de visite soigni^e, la douz. 25 fr | Carte album soignee, la doaz. 40 fr. — .Iail2dpuz.\bh. Caite visjte au plaHne, ta dnuz. 40 fr. (Ires riche) ln\/2doiu. To Ir. — lall2douz.25(r Corte album au platine, ta douz. 80 0'. (tresriche) M 1/2 doHS. 50 fr. QRANOS PORTRAITS |NALT^RABLES Grandeur 0.18'-"' X 0.24"" de h.aui prix 25 francs /Vpreuw - 0.30"" XO.AO^'" — _ 60 - - - 0.50"" X 0.60'" — - 100 - — — 0.65"" X 1"" — _ 200 — — — 1" Xl.50 — — 300 — — Ppprpducilons d'anciens portraits, reisejijfeiagEe absolument exacte {Prix suivai\t dlf^c^U) Differentes poses sont soumises au client avant la lipraison, sans qftigmenlalion de prix PORTBAiTS POUR CAni£ D'lOENTITE LIVRES OANS l£S 48 H £u R E S cAoaes RICHES et pantaisies a o's.s prix TBts modehEs On peut poser tous les jours de 7 heures da matin i 7 neures du soir par n'imf)orte quel temps L' HYGIENE LES SOINS DE LAtBOUCHE L' HYGIENE L'HYGIENE SOINS DE LA BOUCHE SiiHttt Srivtll II I. I ifi fiey de TbiU V: Bachelard SUCCESSEUR CHIRURGIEN-DENTISTE MAISON DE CON FIANCE 2, Beukuard Bonne-NeuDdle, 2 *5C PAI^ I S 3^ < » * * LE VOYAGE MALLES, VALISES, ETC £±±±±±±±±±±±±J:±±±±±±J^ MANUFACTURE > d'Articles de Voyage U» T£l£PHONE 221-34 (Eslablishcrt over IOC years) E.60YIKDAmEp Rue Saint-Honore, 233 MANUFACTURER H^ of soul leather Ladies and Gentlemen triinks N* DRESS BASKETS LADIES'HAT CASES p ^n#«r«nj%ii BULLY n, ra* MoiUiituU, PARIS, HOItfUffS ns HKNRl UaSB. \ BOtiTF.MV. OKIGER ,. 7t rue Sainle-Anne • A LA MUSIQUE Maison la plos imporlaiilo en France dans le commerce de JIusiqup Emiie MEPESSOwYPiM S'^-Cecile, ^ REIMS 19 Ml^DMI.LtS. DIPLOMES D'HONxNEUR ET DtCORATlUiNS your Lcs cIpt_€s. li ':■.' uiilc rl afjrtahlr U" coTiMiitrf les noui cautis. dc Hvp Urna- coup d': musiquf, cl i da }i'r:.[ jiossihU n ppii de frats que par un abonnxHvni >Botlc Itemoia. Grand Ahoieffleiil a la tectare Misicaie Offrani 400,000 MORCEADX dete^es Editeurs. 4.000 PARTITIOXS D'OPEHAS. PiaDo seuiet Y\m elClunt MQDE REMOIS - PORTS FRANCO Depuis 15 francs par an y compria Ic.s froisdc iKn-tyillcrct retour SONT COMf niS DANS L'ABONNEmENT : Les morceaux de Jfiauo A 2, 6, 4 el d*6 mains. Le^pa^lilionsd'op^^a5, piano seulei piano et chant. La musique Je chfcnt, airs.d'operas, inplodirs, etc. La musique pour Violon, Violoncelle, Orguc, FICiie, Mandoline, eto. Le'Mufeique d'enserablf, duos, irlos, quaiuors Lesijpiudes, les nouveaul^s. Le sorvico do rabonneiiicDt ne se Tail pas les d.mai 11 est delivre i clinque aboDoe uo cartoo du [ir LES ABONNEIlflENTS SONT PAYABLES AVANCE N° 3 doiiiiaiU droit (jc lire dausl'aiinee 350 fr. de musique. I'nv marque cl i iO larifs po.ttau.T.. 15 fr. I \" 4 donnant droit de lire dansj'anude 750 fr. de musique. Prix rnarqu^ el a 14 larifs postaux.. 26 fr N" 5 donnanl droil de lire dans I'annee 1,200 fr- de mus^ue. Pii\ marque et k IS laHfs poslauj.. 38 fr. La musique lue en plus est comptee 4 fr. par I(Kt fr. -Mjour KaboDQeinflDl flo 3 — U fr. pour raltOQDfliiioul PMi» 4 — 2 fr. 50 pour I'abooneniCQl n' 0. comme nombre d envoi nu jKiids (Je torif riioyeaoaot uQ sitpulfiment proportiooDsl (celui lodique est do 3 kiloB el eQ pare). Les HtiannAs retjci-'eot ftvRc cliaquoen?oi oxpedifi franco if pdstalqui leur Hssure i^aletneot d. r. upplei Ja du turif ost k aju I'etrfin au prj Le Rayon de Musique d'Abonnement de la' Maison Cmile MENNESSOIM St Fils est le plus Important qui existe en France La mu.j(tue..de tous I'os fid;teurs est dooo.'n i labi-Qocinctil, oi cumme li y co n ud6 ccolaine oq France, il peul eJtiator de CoUlogue gtneral pouvnnt reosfi'p'nnr sii, )o musitjud 4 choi5ir. Le^ abouncs qui o'oot pa" de lili( doDner peuvonl ftidiqiicr le genre ot la fi,rfo de la tnii^njue a Ii'ur eovoyor. lis scruDt «oivii a leur sah.raclion, PAYEMENT DES PIANOS EN 36 MOIS, depuis 25 francs par mots aecor.iiooi • Pianos detous les Facteurs, ERARD, PLEYEL, GAVEAD. etc., etc. JSj?/ Svsleme E. MENN'l'SSON, brevoK, adopt* par les piincipnui '«3Er' Professeurf du Conservoloiro .1.; Vm-^. par les Maisons PLEYEL. WOLFr el C" -^W^ GAVE\U, etc., do I'aris. ■^ 'Ji'itoniinnndi^ par li-i jitus CLicbrcs Pianislcs cl Vii-luoscs Le M0LLIPI10f(B;a.u'n'<)ouble hut : l" il assourdil li! Piano a volonle el k lei poiiil i|iie ni ilos pii^iTi conligues, aides appariemejjis siiues au-dessus on au-dessoiis on ii'eniendc les t?iudes iinisic;(k>; 2" il a le grand avaniagft (le pTo^eger les feuues des marleaux et d'assdrer au Piano un scfvite beaufoup ])lus Ion;: qu'i ecu lion moins.du Moliijihone. ^ ^■,3Sr KEYUE .MBSICALE ^-- CECILE;^ rj^^t; Couo Revuo cj^icjile pubtiee'suaf Ic patronofre demiueals nrti*iles, iolferc^se les pcrsonnts duji inusicieuDi'.* aussi bieo que Iq*. piiTajeane^ c|pve5. EHc doune cliaque nnnee 40 francs de musique. pru iriurqu6, ei I-SO p.ifi'j de lexto, coinpr«oaiit:,5'OgTB[>tiie, cliroarqn'a'cl' eludes musicalc.;, les nouvelles mu'icoltis da la Frruice el dr ifctrnoper, dos elemeolB et priucip^ d'banrtoQle, des aiiecdoLtis. des ephemerittcs, des rScrcmion*. des comK.lic^ ei dcs sajOL'ti'i pour fainilles fll tiiaisoas d'WuMlioQ. — Envoi d'un numtfi'o specimen cojurci* fi\ 30 en iimin-cs-posic. ' - Od ^Mm, J tODie epodue "d6 1'anaSe, Envoyer mandat-posie de 4 Ir. a E, mennesson i Fils, Mlieurs i Reims LES GilANDS^VINS DEIiFRANGE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE ^^^^^1^^^^^^^^^^(^^feQi CHAIPAGKE PROPRIETAIRE AVIZE (Champagne) ^_ ,; MEI>AI LiJLrES D'OK : AHYEES f S9'4 - KQUEM 1SS6 Carte Blanche. Carte Rose . . Carte d'Or 1893 Fr 4 » 5 » 6 » V: .)2] 50 centimes en plus par 2 dedii - bouteilles. 1 FRANCO D'EMBALLAGE PRIS EN GARE D'AVIZE ^74] La Maison demande des RepresenLants "V^ ti I'Eiranj^er par tout ou elle n'est pas i rf ;6 m- HfrPv m ^^^^^^^0^^^^^-^^ LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE XXVlt LES^GBANDS VIKS.DE FRANCE VINS DE CHAMPAGNE VINS PINS OE CHAMPAGNE CARRE-PERSEVAL&C" REIMS Grands Dipldmes d'Honneur aux Expositions de PAftIi 1886 MeCBOURNE 1888 BORDEAUX ^ carte d 'Or Carte Blanche "* ■ , k„,,i,.,ii,.« special cuvee e«tra-dry, la caissc dc 1^ bouiciuis ^ ^ Carte noire FRANCO DEMBAUUAGE PR.S A AY ^XIX LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE la b'" fr. Emhallc en ^are Dameiy. — 40 c. en plus par 2/2 bout. Vente Direete du ProdaeteuF au GonsommateuF SUPPRESSION DES INTERMfeDIAIRES LUTTE CONTRE.LA FRAUDE ET LA FALSIFICATION Ell prtviiion dune rapide invasion phyllox^yique qui ne s'esi lieuieiise- ment pas lialisee, les Nigociants out consiitiii! des stocks considerables de V'lii etmngers : Bcaujolais,. Sauniur, Hongiic. Pour I ipondie a cette manoeuvre, les Propi letaires-Vigncrons ont constind I'associatinn du "Pur Champagni" LA QUALITY de 1105 Vins est indiscutable, I'Asso- ciaiion n'itant pas patentee et ne pouvant, de ce fajt, s approvisionner autre p«rt qucn CHAIUPACNE, elle ® nc livre done que les recoltes ae seS adherents. Preprint a j res -Vignerons a Ay, Ver:[enay, Oger, Cumiires, Damery, Mailly. Venteuil, etc., etc. LE BON MARCH^ la valeur du prp- Ic 4 lAssociatKin ■ lucun dcs Irais dcs en Conipur:i diiit, dcvicii qui nc siipi autres niaiijuLS, <6)^que : I'.itciile Rcpresciilaliiiii, lincfn*iifiiiircs, Aiv nonces, KccUtncs, iuithaincaiit les prix dc icviciii dcs vins s«n$ en augmentcr la QUALITY LES GRAKPS VINS DE FRANqE YINS^DE CHAMPAGHE Maison fondee en. 1840 PROPJUETAIRE ^pEi^ls^T'^V 1^ ^^SPE CHAMPA ^ f>fi€i)U'l€^$ €fi\e,hQ,n marchi ot comme qualiU >^.< — i-: .PRIX-COURANT- C^rte Biancha • 5 fwiacs. \ ^ Les 2 Demi-Bouteill^s, fr. 25 ejj Plus ■ „7 PR IS i VEsR-T^US -V- ;{Epi,b«Uage eomprla) VAioiir B 90 Jpurs ou 30 Jpurs, 2 'I, d'Escomptfi. 5i LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE VINSiDE CHAMPAGNE Ql^ampagne Alexandre DUMAS "^^/SON A LOHOP<>^^ es, Oastl© Stx^eet, SG Oxforci Street LES GRANDS YINS DE FRANCE :inS DE CHAMPAGNE ^. Vms Fins de Champagne s\ Seule Maison eifective de ce nom FONOEE EN 1784 flU CHflTEflU DE GORRlGOr -.«- piERRY, pres EPERMY 4 <*► " Y I ^1^ Vins de Champagne h A. DESCOTES MAREUIL-S/-AY (Marne) PRIX • COURANT Sillery Mousseux . . 2 50 | Carte Blanche 4 " Ay Mousseux ...... 3 " ] Cuvee Rdservde 5 50 La bouteille pvise a Mareuil-surAy — 25 c en phjs par 3]1s bouleiUes. XXXIII '• LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE ^ YINS' DE CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE ETABLI EN 1760 ESTABLISHED 1760 lillHSOKPERE.Fms REIMS Cette Marque est foarnie k SA MAJESTE LA REINE D'ANGLETERRE SON ALTESSE ROYALE LE PRINCE DE GALLES LE8 GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE VINS DE CHAMPAGNE VINS DE CHAMPAGNE CONCOURS D'HYGIENE. RfilMS 1889. - DIPLOME DE 1" CLASSE Iifinnion iBBmailBnal!! Si CililE (JJcemlitt lrt< J Bars I8S5) - OfliSD tRil RficOMPENSKS OBTENU|S GetiSve, )«93. - Academ.e de Bruxclles, 18U1. P^Tii. liiSiiiui infernaiional, 18!).'). — Memhi^ du Jary Itofs ciinfojir^ ' Moscoii. 18D1. — Anvers. 1894. — Esposilmn alnnenlaire . Liverpool, 180i — Jloos, 189G. MT^SSE PeKE Si. FllaS Grand Cremant Champagne Mousseux. ... 2 50 Carte Noire Qualite super. . 3 Champagne du Chasseur . . 3 50 II. d" 1 Etoile. 3 Zi Carte Blanche 4 •■ <> d" 2 d" 31 GIA E:MBA.».t_ACfc 6N SUS O fr. SO f n pliin rendu fi rtnmicUeS! Paris. — Pjt 2 '/. Bunt., O if. 3»en plui 2-fr 25 Cuvee reservee, extra sec. , Tisane Cremante d" 1 Etoile. ¥lNS DE f HAMPAGNE __-_^ ^^^^^.^s-^-^- ^^^-- PIERRY-EPERNAY AdPesse t4I6gr>ephlque / -LSB-LA^C-PieflfiY 1-*-!-^ PRIX-COURANT Carte Blanche 3 50 Carte d'Or 4 75 Grand Cremant, Cuvie rHervie 5 50 EXPEDITIONS PAR PANIERS OU CAISSES DE \», it, Sfl, Sft BOUTEILLES PR. 50 FN PLCS POL'ft S J/2 SOL'TElLLES .6 IBarchaDdises prises fpcrnay, fpanco d'eiaballage XXXV LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE Bucy 4e Rochecourt )VllIiIiER-GWOE a FlliS Proprietairee. — Negocisnts -Esportaieura IVTAREUIL-SUR-AY . ■ Pres ^perns'/ (MARNE) PRIX COURANT Carte Noire 3 25 ! Marque Miller-Caqye et Fi)s Royal Caaed'or(AjfeseMe) 5 » ] Sillery exquis (exir^). . 3^5 l.ES VlNS 80NT EXPKDIES BPUT. SEC. PEMI-SEC OU DOUX NOTA : Les bouteilles doivent §tre couchees a Vafiri du froM rigoureux et de Vbumidne 30UTEJU£s r^v^^rr-'rii^Mff'^iy^^ ^ /^ORHA^ a^ElMS Carte blanche 5' Boury 4^ Sillepy 3'.' Ay 2? 50 Tisane 2f 60 MAISON FONDEE EN 1820 LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE REIMS ^:^^ CRampagne Maison a PARIS. 23, rue He Palestra Mllcry railciioirc . . . . hr 4 ii (. cirtc vci'lc 4 SO r.stra,Diy Verzoiiay, vm sec. 4 SO i;artc blanche ^ SO l.iserM- clivfc 5 50 Carte dor Crcinant 6 50 . 6 60 . 3 » PRIX-COURANT : Kr 4 11 ♦ Carte d'or Crfeir.ant, Extra-sec Tisane niousseuse MARQUE V ESBACH & C" apperlenHiiL A la Mai3on Ay ou SUlery mousseux ... 2 50 Carte blanche 3 » 0' SO eii plus par deux demi-bouteilles L«S rofciS O'tMBfcLLAGe f-T DE TRANSPORT SONT A L* CHARGE DG L-ACMETEUR Afiii rtevrler Ips , onii cfai niis. les Vins de 4 4 6' 50 seront MpiuISs (« moms ? _ Bijeue (Premiere Quality) 25 Centimes eu plus paj- deux demi-BouteiUes FRAJM d'EMBM.U6E, tl CaiBB! M PaiuJiTdTirM"* 50 BttteillK, enBare MESHllrJiir-OBE! LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE CHAMPAGNE VIN DBS PRINCES EPERNAY rEMOfiE & f PARIS J, lue^ QJcnoe^ MARSEILLE L0N0RE3 ' 5, sy/Ca.cK' oLa.r- SRUXELLES 25, Ut^ CIA Ut ^./C^u xxxvin LES GRANDS VINS DE FaAJsCE YIUS DE CHAMPAGNE MAISON FONDLE EN +8-67 lExptD s i t i o n s In t e r n a t i OTiaiies MENTION HONOHABLE BORDEA'UX 1S9S laeDAILLR DE BBONZE ROUEN 1896 MfDAiLLE d'aroent MARSEILLE 1897 GRA'ND .DIPLOME DHONNEUR LYON ,1897 ¥IK:S DE CJHAHFA!.G'H3E PROPRlfiTAJRE PRIX-COURANT ) Carfe d'or, quality superieure. 6'' i Carfe rose n> I Cafte blanche, 1" qualile. S" j les 2/2 bouteiu.es so c. cn pil? sfe Proprietaire de V^es dan<; fes crus TenonTmes de la Champagne If A AVIZE, OGEa, GRAUVES -^y" «& vMONT+JELON ■'<^^ (Champagne) ,P.RlX.-£0.lfM.Itr Grani] liiipeml:-4rull893 . , Carle BIsDcktCwnds Cm). Carle Noire (Cre'mant) . . . laboot. prise i kmi 6 . 5 • 4 ) Les deux dcmi-bouteilles, ,0/r. 25 en plus. LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DE BORDEAUX, BOURGOGNE GRANDS VINS DE BORDEAUX et de Bourgogpe dales Ivijll^eHAP TELEPHONE 250-95 308, rue Saint-Honore WHISKIES GINS ~*^h engiaism house -— ^ THES, CAFES i Sur toiites les tables arisiocraiiauer, vous trouverez les Grands Vtnsde la Matson jules Marchand ■«= ■ ■■-' '-■- ■: » BORDEAUX and BURGUNDY BORDEAUX & BURGONDER iligh Class Winel All iTi&rk;9 of Champagnes .-s Liquors Telephone 250-95 36». rue St-Honofd Whiskies, Cms ENGLISH HOtSK Teas, Golfet! On iti tirt\locraliL tal/tn yon prr vtre to finit ihe ki.i-.s if Juki iW^i.anU Chair.pat^ner r* Liqueurs Aller MariKO j'Giais HAaciaAnici filtpbone m-^ 369, rua St- Honor* Wiskies Giits ENGLISCHES HAUS Thfees ct GaISs Aufaiteit ffintu Feschfn ftitM man tictn die Vi'eiiic ion Jules K&rthaud LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE YINS DES COTES DE LA LOIRE YOUYRAY )i)m$ hc$ €bte$ he la €o\xt t SPECIALITE DE YINS BLANCS J ^ FABRIQUE DE VINAIGRE DE VIN BARUE fp^pes e)(9 419 et 119 bis, Faubourg Bannier De VERMONT, Propri6taire.St-HlLAIRE St-FLORENT (France) GRANDS VINS MOUSSEUX CHATEAU DE VERMONT Propriete exclusive dc la MaiSon MRIEBLEUE. tiain ot . uar.s l/,cbo.U-) 1 50 - B16NCHE Eiain or 1 75 - ROSE - 2 .. - BLUNCHE CCREt ...-...■- 2 25 - OOR ■ , . ■ ■ . - 2 50 - DOR GRUND VIN OE RESERVE. EUinsakle or 3 •■ - GRSND CREMANT MOUSSEUX . - 3 50 - GRAND. VIN ROrAL Capsule or 4 ■. /.rt cf Sfoiti a la charge de I'achetcitr Moyennttnt Une kgite eugmentatiott on petit livier en belles bonbuimcs (Itsgfyi j«(- verre ds i ou 3 liliei youvaitt teiifir de i»rafoii XXXjUUl l£B GEAKDEB ,MAHQUE6 LIQUEUR DIGESTIVE UA RSOUINE Tcl est le nom dune des mcilleures Jiogeurs qo'il soit donn* de .dftgusler. C'est dans le dtpartemeut de la Marne, A ! Abbaye d".Orbais, gue M. I'AUtie P'OT, curt ^I'Qrbnis possosseur d'une triss viaille lonnulc l«iss4c par iDou pu Bout, inoiiic de lAlibaye^'Orbais. a ipsuUt une dwtJUerie modfcle dans laauelle il s'ejt appli()U(, avac succte. A mettEC 4 profit la jc^ecette qui Jul A.tti JSguce coramc qn veritable trfisor et dont il a su tirer un si grand parti. Nous affirmons que les liqueurs de grandes marques, telles que la Chartreuse et la B6nMictine, ne sow* pas meilleures, et nous avons la conviction que quand la REOLINE sera toniuie, elle leur sera prfrterfee ,par beaucpup desourraets. Nous nesaunons trop engafar nos Iccteurs ien (aire usage. Ncjs sommes encore sous le charmc do la visite que nous avons laitc;^ I'Abbaye d'Orbais, oil nous avons 4t* accueilhs par M. rAbbC Piot d'uno (a<;oii si cordijali;.J(Qn,seulcnienl.U nous,4 (&it visiter sa ipi^nifique dislillerie-dans laquclfe nous avons pu jtdrmirer jfis apparcils les plus jjcctactiounes .ct Ics jilus modprni^. ,^^^ -mais ce qui nous jd-oncere plus impi)«4sionn*,e'«at le cfttf philanthropique de soti entrcprise, oar .4 laidc-tle «on inaustiie. ftvec altc ct par elle. il tait vivrc unc cenlaino dorphelins qui, .jfrAce-alac^nleotion-.dcsa aavoureusc liqueur, trouvcnt prts de lui 3outiei< ct aflection. Le dSsir.leplus ardent dejM.l'Ab.WPioT e^t.dcvtjir scs efforts do pMis en pliis couronnes de succis, adn do.poiwvQir.augmentor.le.nombre des petits d6sh<;ntcs du sort quil pourra recueillir. Ce^t asses vous. dire, chers, Iccteurs, combien les ame. compatissantes-doivent.elre beuMusesde pouvoir «'a9soci«r a unc telle wuvre aussi nous ne doutons pas un scul instant qu'elles s'cmpresseront de (ai^e figur'^r sur leur tabic la savourcuse liqueur la REOLINE ct i lui donner la pr4(6rcnce sur toutcs les liqueurs similaires. Pour noire part, nous nous emprcssons de preter 1<' concours de notrc puolirit*^ » la prooagalion ric.la REOLINE d'QRBAIS-l'ABBAY£,si,bonoe, si ouctueusa, et.avec le produitde laquelle un saint. hoinme. tait tant do bien. •Pour se procurer la REOLINE, il faut s'adresser a la Distillerle d'ORBAIS-l'ABBAYE (Marne) ou bien A I Administration du GUIDE DO GRAND MONDE, 17, Rue Cadet, a PARIS AINSI Qtl'A SE«; CORRF\rOND\NTS LES GRANDES MARQUES EAUX-DE-YIE Fine Brelagne PRODUIT de la DISTILLATION des VSNS BLAHCS KilNTAlS I u/iecmnile QaMo/^r^ NANTES LES GRANDES MARQUES LIQUEURS, YINS LIQUEURS SURFINES Guignolet Poulain ■>^ Triple-Sec Poulain )E PISTILLERIS PE L*0UEST fD^daille de "Bronjs Bordeaux 1882 (IXdaille dc Vermeil nanfe? 1882 mddaille d'prgeni : "Bloij 1S83 mddaille d Hrgenf • Vannef 1883 fn^daille d'Hrgenl •nic< 1684 m » < < VINS BLANCS GjomcurK^ de. CHaoueith - Cios le, t'£;(3iUt VINS ROUGES (Do'ma'7/ne de Larriquelte - Cru de I'Or Cru de Jtdssoiie Tous ces vins pretsA mettre en bouteillcs, pamnt dirccte- i^ mcnt de la propriete, h 150 franca et au-dcssus f:i > barrique de 325 litres. LE.S -GEANPES MARQUES LES BIERES FRAN^AISES EKT REPORTS V dans les ppineipales Villes de FWNCE et d'flLCI^RlE A PAH IS dans les Grands .I:I6tels ef les ^PuiniCipaux Cai&s •Mfiilspfi :(fe fPegiJsisiiion ■• 4 Ktii (en face i'OLYMPlA) 43. iBoul-evard des Capucines DEJEUNERS - DLXERS - SOUPERS 37, Rue AJboay. — TEI.EPHONE 264-51 xxxxvn LES GRANDES MARQUES TAPIOCA NATUREL IMPORTATION DIRECTE TAPIOCA NATUREL ? Medailles d'Or Hdi^dctille de iwr^rite PARIS A VIENNE 1873 DIPIuOME DHONNEUR // -S-^— 4—S-3 '/^ L MAUPSiyl W Malson fondle en 1856 A f- \ , USIHE PCEliE : 33, Rue mathis.133 ' PABis -vilo:tteI GARANTI PUR NATUREL.fH^v-,,,-.. ,. | 6e (ISfior dea ContrefactetArs Ac VMlAtflGationS. V UfifiJ am IHiiiaiies ^./ , ^ A,^ Billatc :23 To«& BOO granttnsa ^ 2 ff , 70 le Kllog. ^^ ' J %. r5 ^ LES GRANDES, MARQUES PAINS D'EPICES A^. // La Maison apporie '' toua 388 aoins ^ I'executicn des commandss qui iui sont confiees et se charge spe- cialement de I'expeaiUon des Colis "Poslaux pour la France et VEtranger. IDEIFOT m Bum de la gare de Dijon-Vtll^ L m^SHOTssm^^^ mmtmummn m ^ >» --> rr g(u m^. ::^§ }i^^l -c:/.^j--^v''V^ -' -::: ^ir-< w Jin