LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Chap.n^_6i Copyright M Slielf_.S_3_l_, y UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ,ll.. Capital © Seat ol: Judicial District _ .. * ala Po-ioua Capital of Department Seat of Municipal District-, . Hamlet Boundary of Department __ Horse Paths I Macadnmized Highway Country Roads A Rivers Mountains ---■ Railroads Copyright 1898, by Wm. H. Lee MAP OF PORTO RICO Specially designed for this work from the best authority and personal observation. Showing the physical formation, the political divisions, railroads, highways, country roads, and pony paths. The colors on the map indicate the seven departments under Spanish rule. spBOj|[iBa 'suotsiAip popiiod sqi 'uopi - - ■" S.I8ATJJ ===== sp«o^ .^.lannoi) --«-————— .s:i7AYr[.3tjj pozmiupBovj/j; sq^yj 9SJOH ■~~ ° ~~ ' ~~ :!aG)uqjBc[y(j jo A'a«pnnog; •' :}0TJ4STCt x^clPTUi^H Jo :|Beg f^ ;uaut:;jBd8a Jo x«'4TdBQ ,j, '40T.r;sxo: iBtDtpnf jo '4B8g ^^,,^^^j^^ a^ 0- Booap,A^v, ^, M n |,.£^?Sm4# f IJ,*f S£5f iTFTs^.^,-,, ,^, THE STORY OF BEAUTIFUL PORTO RICO Gen. Miles, Commanaer-in-Cbief of the American Army. (Taken at Ponce.) THE STORY OF Beautiful Porto Rico A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE GARDEN SPOT OF THE WORLD BY PEN AND CAMERA COMPRISING The History, Geography, Soil, Climate, Inhabitants, Customs, Churches, Schools, Rivers, Lakes, Mountains, Mines, Products, Imports, Exports, Current Prices, Scenes of the Invasion, Railroads, Public Roads, Telegraph, Tele- phone, Money, Measures, Etc. BY C. H. RECTOR PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED With Nearly Sixty Half-Tone Reproductions from Fresh Photographs by the Celebrated Artist WILBUR F. TURNER AND Two Maps Especially Designed for this Work CHICAGO LAIRD & LEE, PUBLISHERS 1898 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, BY WM. H. LEE, in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C. All Rights Reserved. 2)ebicateb TO OUR ARMY AND NAVY, PRESIDENT McKINLEY, HIS CABINET AND THE PUBLIC WHO AIDED SO GENEROUSLY IN ACHIEVING THE TRIUMP^:\NT RESULTS OF THE HISPANO-AMERICAN WAR. INDEX PAGE A Welcome 9 History of Porto Rico 13 Geography, Provinces and Population 21, 25 The Soil 38 The Climate 41 The Inhabitants 46 Schools and Education 50 Church and Religion 54 Products 57 Cattle, Fodder and Poultry 73 Insects, Game, Fish and Birds 78 Rivers, Lakes and Lagoons 82 Harbors 86 Mountains, Mines, Caves, etc 90 Public Roads 97 Railroads and Street Cars 105 Telegraph and Telephones 113 Measures and Money 117 Miscellaneous Information 121 Peculiarities of Porto Rican Life 126 An Object Lesson 134 The Market of Ponce 137 The Capital 145 A Legend 149 An American Hero's Grave 154 The Red Cross 158 A Spanish Officer's Sword 161 A Typical Hacienda Owner , 166 Spanish Sincerity 169 An Editor's View 174 Looking Backward. , 178 Looking Forward 183 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS General Miles in Ponce, Frontispiece. Page Map Showing Topography of Porto Rico, - - - 8 Camp of the Sixth Illinois, at Ponce, - - - - 11 Company H, Sixteenth Penna. Vols., Before Abonito, - 12 Street and Public Square, San German, - - - - 15 American War Vessels at Anchor in Guanica Bay, - 16 San Antonio Bridges, San Juan, - - - - - 19 Looking Across the Lagoon from San Juan, - - - 20 The Only Protestant Church in Porto Rico, - - - 23 Plaza and Cathedral at Arecibo, ----- 24 Cathedral and Public Square in Mayaguez — Showing Statue of Columbus, and U. S. Cavalryman on Guard, 28 Bird's- Eye View of Ponce, - 31 Plaza, or Public Square, Ponce, - - - - - 35 Typical View Along the Highways, - - - - 39 A Garden in Porto Rico, 43 Group of Native Women and Children, Mayaguez, - 47 Fire Engine House, Ponce, 48 View of San German — Natives in Foreground, - - 51 Cathedral, Ponce, 55 The Royal Palm, - - .- - - - - - 59 Pack Train, Carrying Coffee to Market, - - - - 60 Sugar Cane Plantation, 63 Breaking Camp to Return Home, 67 Provisional Engineers (Officers of U. S. Volunteers), - 71 A Grass Peddler, '^'5 After a Fishing Trip, ------- 80 Street Scene in San German, 83 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Page Company "A, "First Illinois, ----- 84^ A Train of Ox Carts, Carrying Army Supplies, - - 88 Battery "M, " Seventh Artillery, Ready for Action, - 92 The Famous Quintana Baths, Near Ponce, - - - 95 A Mountain Trip by Pony Path, - - . - 99 Spanish Barracks in San Juan, - - - - -• 103 Railway Depot and Yard at Ponce, - - - - 107 Engine and Train, Narrow Gauge Road, . . - m A Street in Ponce, - - - - - - - 115 Hdqrs. of Gen's Miles and Wilson during Invasion, - 119' Camp of Battery "C, " Pennsylvania Volunteers, - 123 The Porto Rican Milkman, 127 A Porto Rican Funeral Procession, - - - - 131 A View of Cemetery Vaults, ------ 132 A Group of Spanish Officers and Soldiers, - - 135 ' Officers of the Sixth Illinois Volunteers, - - _ 13(5 Busy Scene in Market Place, ----- I39 Market Hall, Ponce, ------- 143 View of San Juan, Capital of Porto Rico, - - 144 Rear View of Morro Castle, San Juan, - - - - 147 Old Cathedral, Port Ponce— Camp of Battery "E, " Pennsylvania Volunteers, ------ 151 General View of Cemetery in Porto Rico, - - 155 Scene in a Spanish Hospital, San Juan, - _ - 159 Ambulances of the American Army, - - - - 160 Spanish Transports, San Juan Harbor, - - - - 163 A Rich Man's Plantation, and Driveway, - - - 167 A Peon's Home Under Banana Trees, - - - - 168 Camp of Battery "M, " 171 American Boys Amusing Themselves After the Victory, 175 American War Ships in Guanica Bay, . - _ 179 WILBUR F. TURNER CHARLES H. RECTOR THE Above Cuts faithfully picture the artist and author of ' 'Beautiful Porto Rico. ' ' These gentlemen made a trip which practically covered the whole island, sailing around the greater part of the coast twice, and later traveling some three hundred miles inland by railroad, coach and native pony. They passed through fourteen towns while yet occupied by the Spanish army, having many thrilling experiences. They climbed to the mountain tops, and investigated the management of the great planta- tions where coffee is grown, and were unquestionably the first men to cover this entire territory and secure facts and figures on the ground, with no guesswork, and to secure life-like pictures of the natives, with their surroundings. The trip was full of risk, and many times they resorted to heroic measures to pass Spanish garrisons. At Abonito the Spanish Com- mander was induced to loan his private carriage to carry them out of the Spanish lines, which was a queer procedure in time of war. By making this successful trip these gentlemen are able to give to the world infor- mation never before published. THE PUBLISHERS. si O oo A WELCO/nE, When your brother marries a stranger in a distant land, you are happy to receive the hkeness of the new sister^ with a few Unes descriptive of her features and complexion, and of her qualities. Our family of States has just received an addition, Porto Rico. It is true we do not know yet what the status of the new member will be in our family, but she has come to stay, and it will be well to make her acquaintance. I should like to introduce the reader, as I was in- troduced — sailing over the shining sea and beholding the island emerge suddenly out of a mist, a dazzling beauty. The sun suddenly dispersed the veil of vapors hiding her, and disclosed to our admiring eyes, beyond the flashing, dancing waters and against a deep blue sky, a gigantic and perfect garden. Were they 9 10 A WEIvCOMB. trees or mountain tops? Rows behind rows of green wavy lines, rising from the very shore to a height of 4,000 feet and more. Who would not fall in love with such a picture? Could it be that there was suffering, injustice, oppression between those verdant hills? Surely, if there was a spot on earth where human beings might be just and kind and happy without great exertion, this must be the place. And if the notions and laws of the old regime are in the way of a peaceful and successful pursuit of happiness, we will wipe them out. Our new sister shall enjoy our liberty and will soon learn to love our ways. HISTORY OF PORTO RICO. It was Columbus who discovered and named Porto Rico. On the 16th day of November 1493, during his second voyage, he sighted the island, disembarked and landed on the 19th day of the same month, and, struck by the beauty and fertility of the land, called it Puerto Rico, which signifies "Rich Port". Those of my readers who have seen with their own eyes what Columbus saw, will testify that Christopher evidently knew a good thing when he saw it, and was not at a loss for a suitable name. The natives called the island "Borinquen". Sixteen years after the first discovery, in 1509, the Spanish established the first settlement on the island, Caparra, under Don Juan Ponce de Leon, and from that time on, a steady stream of Spaniards slowly but 13 14 HISTORY OF PORTO RICO. surely displaced the gentle Indian natives. The his- tory of these Aborigines was the same pitiful tale, wherever the Spanish gained a foothold. In Porto Rico hardly a trace of the Indian blood is to be discov- ered among the population to-day. Caparra, the cradle of the 'Tuertoriquenos" was abandoned in 1552; its site is called Ouebrada Margarita to-day. But as a lasting monument to the daring pioneer, the second city in importance of the island perpetuates his name. Ponce. We give the dates of the settlement of all the princi- pal places on the island later on, and- confine ourselves here to an outline of the history of the whole island. The capital, whose full name is San Juan Batista de Puerto Rico, was founded by Don Juan Ponce de Leon in 1511, the Casa Blanca being the first building erected. In the same year, the town of San. German, in the west of the island, was founded by Captain Miguel Toro. San German preserves, more than the capital, the features of the past. Its inhabitants are very proud of their quaint town and its history. Especially do they glory in relating an incident of the English HISTORY OF PORTO RICO. . 17 invasion of 1743, when the patriotic and valiant burghers of San German met the invaders half way between their city and Guanica Bay where the English had landed, (and where on July 25th, 1898, General Miles forced an entrance,) defeated them and drove them back into their ships. For all that, they will be good American citizens. Sober and practical people, they have accepted their fate. When a gentleman in the author's company ex- hibited a tiny American flag, the Porto Ricans cheered lustily. If good judgment and tactful respect for their prejudices and habits are shown by our officials, they will be valuable citizens in the near future. In a little book, authorized by the Spanish Administration of Porto Rico, as a school book, the character of the in- habitants is stated to be "frank and expansive," and if this be a true estimation, they will blend well with the '"Yankees" of these latter days, to be sure. In all, the island was invaded nine times, owing to the ''codicia" (covetousness) of the foreigners, as the little book referred to states. The French invaded the island in 1538. The English under Drake paid the island a visit and sacked the capital in 1595. Three years later, the Earl of Cumberland repeated the pro- 18 HISTORY OF PORTO RICO. cess with, much zest. In 1625 Baldwin Heinrich, a Dutch Commander, lost his life in an attack on Cas- tello del Mono. After that the English monopolized the business, swooping down on their prey in 1678, 1702, 1703, 1743 and, for the last time, in 1797. In 1820, a movement was made toward a declaration of independence on the part of the Porto Ricans, but the Spanish stifled the rebellion and regained the upper hand in 1823. In 1824, Commodore Porter of the United States, during his successful raids on the West Indian pirates, invaded the island, and seventy-five years later on, May 12th, 1898, Admiral Sampson appeared before San Juan and bombarded the ports during three hours. It is a coincidence worth noting, that on July 25th, the day when the rumor went abroad first that Spain was ready to yield to the inevitable, and when General Merritt reached Manila, the American forces under General Miles also landed at Guanica Bay, Porto Rico, hoisting the American flag over the town after an insignificant skirmish. On August 11th, 1898, a protocol was signed at Washington, by the terms of which Spain ceded Porto Rico to the United States. GEOGRAPHY. 21 On October 18th, 1898, General Brooke took formal possession of the island. The simple ceremonies of raising the flag over San Juan, the capital, included music by the military bands and the firing of guns. GEOGRAPHY. Porto Rico is situated between longitude 9 degrees 44 minutes and 11 degrees 25 minutes east from Washington and between latitude 17 degrees 54 min- utes and 18 degrees 30 minutes 40 seconds north. It is bounded on the north by the Atlantic ocean, on the east and south by the Sea of the Antilles, and on the west byAIona Channel. The island is ninety-five miles long and thirty-five miles broad, with an estimated area of 3,668 square miles. According to the census of 1887, the population was 813,937, of which more than 300,000 were negroes. There are 137 miles of railway, about 150 miles of wagon road, 470 miles of telegraph lines and telephone systems. San Juan, the capital, on the northern coast, is sit- uated upon a small island connected with the main land by a substantial arched stone bridge, named San 22 GEOGRAPHY. Antonio, and also two iron railroad bridges. At the extremity of the island are the high cliffs which sup- port El Morro Castle (Morro means round, and signi- fies, therefore, the old fashioned fort, as we see it on Governor's island. New York harbor, and in Castle Garden, New York.) Ponce, a great mercantile center and the second city of importance, is about two miles from the south coast. It was the residence of a military commander and the seat of an official chamber of commerce. The only Protestant church in the Spanish West Indies is here. The little book already spoken of teaches that Porto Rico enjoys ''tolerancia de cultos" (religious tolerance)^ but this church was found tightly closed by our soldiers. Playa is the city's seaport, and is considered the healthiest spot on the island, and sec- ond port in importance. Mayaguez, the third city, is situated in the west part. It exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples and cocoanuts. The annual export of coffee, ranging in price with Java, is 170,000 hundredweights. Of the 180,000 bags of flour 'that the island buys annually from the United States, 50,000 are imported into Mayaguez. PROVINCES AND POPULATION. 25 Other principal cities, all ports, are Aquadiila on the north-west, Arecibo on the north coast, Fajardo and Nagabo on the east side, and Arroyo on the south- east. Detailed information about rivers, mountains, rail- roads, etc., will be found under special headings. See index. PROVINCES AND POPULATION. Each town had jurisdiction over the immediate neighborhood in which it was located, and below is given the population of the jurisdiction, together with the year in which the town was founded and the total number of plantations of various kinds in the province, according to the directory of the island and other ofhcial records. BAYAMON PROVINCE. Year Popu- Name. Founded. lation. Bayamon 1772 15,316 Ccrozal 1795 9,652 Dorado ■ 1842 3,985 Loiza 1719 9,600 Naranjito 1824 6,6ol Rio Piedras 1774 11,042 26 PROVINCES AND POPUIvATION. Year Popu- Name. Founded. lation. Rio Grande 1840 6,237 Carolina 1857 11,042 Toa-Alta 1751 6,808 Toa-Baja 1745 3,285 Trujillo Alto 1801 4,015 Vega-Alto 1775 5,498 Vega-Baja 1776 10,648 Total population 103,789 Cane plantations,, 88; coffee, 275; fruits, 2,446. ARECIBO PROVINCE. Arecibo 1778 29,722 Camuy 1807 9,181 Ciales 1820 13,036 Hatillo 1823 9,671 Barceloneta 1882 6,246 Manati 1838 8,191 Morovis 1818 11,567 Quebradillas 1823 5,929 Utuado 1789 31,292 Total population 124,835 Cane plantations, 38; coffee, 396; tobacco, 66; fruits, 2,849. PROVINCES AND POPULATION. 29 AGUADILLA PROVINCE. Year Popu- Name. Founded. latTon. Aguadilla 1775 13,306 Aguada 1511 9,557 Isabela 1819 12,554 Lares 1829 17,163 Moca 1774 11,092 San Sebastian 1752 14,042 Rincon 1770 5,837 Total population • 83,551 Cane plantations, 40; colfce, 300; fruits, 2,394. MAYAGUEZ PROVINCE. Mayaguez 1760 28,246 Anasco 1703 12,437 Cabo Rojo 1771 16,844 Sabana Grande 1814 9,611 San German 1511 19,933 Las Marias 1871 9,792 Hormigueros 1876 3,199 Maricao 1876 7,728 Lajas 1883 9,192 Total population o 116,982 Cane plantations, 90; coffee, 778; fruits, 2,535. 30 PROVINCES AND POPUIyATION, PONCE PROVINCE. Year Popu- Name. Founded. lation. Ponce 1752 42,705 Adjiintas 1815 16,321 Aibonito 1825 6,397 Barranqiiitas 1803 5,828 Barros 1825 11,697 Coamo 1646 10,537 Guayanilla 1833 7,805 Juana Diaz 1798 21,032 Penuelas 1793 , 10,023 Santa Isabel 1841 3,384 Yauco 1756 24,411 Total population 160,140 Cane plantations, 49; coffee, 7,453; tobacco, 570; fruits, 9,260 PROVINCES AND POPUI