^'^ 1 .. »1 '• ^ 7 i^,/!- ■ -I- . , t- v^- •^'' ' g ..;••^'gA^•■' . .^ , : ^ .,<■><' »v , APPLETONS' '^ GUIDE TO MEXICO, INCLUDINR A CHAPTER ON GUATEMALA AND AN ENGLISH^ SPANISH VOCABULAEY. BY ALFRED R. CONKLING, LL. B., Ph. B., MEMBER OF THE NEW YOKE ACADBMt OP SCTEN0E9 AND PORMEELT ITNITED STATES GEOLOGIST. WITE A RAILWAY MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. FIFTH EDITION, REVISED. "^tgLWASH;* NEW YORK: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 1, 8, AND 5 BOND STREET. 1893. ^792.^ CopyRiGOT, 1883, 1891, 1893, By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. -;^c«.^' ^.^^^i^e^^^CC'^ ^^ L.^ yc.^*,^. i^^^'^^^ ^u,-»^-^^ <,^r '2^:^^^L^_J<; ,,.^:^^ a-'i^ y /^ ^^ ^ -*^^>^^s PEE FA O E. Since the year 1880, a large amount of capital has been invested in Mexico by citizens of the United States. Within that period an unprecedented number of the Eng- lish-speaking races have visited that country either as tourists, or as explorers with a view to an actual settle- ment and a permanent residence. During a j)rofessional visit to the Mexican Repubhc, in the winter and spring of this year, the author experi- enced from day to day, and frequently from hour to hour, the want of a compendious guide-book. While many volumes of history and of general observation and travel relatmg to Mexico have, from time to time, been pub- lished, no book of this description is known to exist. Believing that our sister Republic will in future, to a far greater extent than ever before, be the resort of the capitalist, the speculator, the artist, the archaeologist, the valetudinarian, and the pleasure-seeker, as well as of the intelligent and enterprising man of business, the author has endeavored to render each and all an acceptable ser- vice by the preparation of this manual. It has been his iv PREFACE. constant aim to use the shortest words, and to adopt the most eoni])aet and abbreviated forms of expression con- sistent with perspicuity. In the spelHng of both proper names and places he has, for the most part, followed the orthography of the best maps and of the standard works on Mexico, except where changes have been introduced by common usage. For instance, the name of President Santa Anna, although correctly spelled with a single let- ter " ??," has so long been spelled with a double '' ?i," that the change may be said to be sanctioned by universal usage. The vocabulary of Spanish words, together with the collection of colloquial phrases, has been made as comj)lete as the limited space devoted to it would permit. At present every new-comer, unless a Spaniard or a Spanish scholar, is obliged to purchase a dictionary immediately on his arrival in the country. It is believed that this want will be in a great measure supphed by this volume. One half of this work is in the form of a compendium of general information for the use of tourists as well as of settlers. In the itinerary, all names of places are italicized for the convenience of the reader. It is to be borne in mind that Mexico is at present in a transition state. The beard may be said to have grown during the shaving. It has accordingly been found neces- sary to revise the proof-sheets of Sections lY and V up to the moment of going to press. The author desires to express his great obHgation to General U. S. Grant ; General ]\Ianuel Gonzalez, the PREFACE. V President of Mexico ; Senores Matias and Cayetano Ro- mero, of the Mexican Legation at Washington ; Don Igna- cio Mariscal, ex-Secretary of Foreign Affairs of the Mexi- can Republic ; Hon. P. H. Morgan, United States Min- ister at Mexico ; Hon. D. H. Strother, Consnl-General of the United States ; Hon. W. P. Sutton and Hon. A. Wil- lard, Consuls at Matamoros and Guaynias respectively ; Mr. Simon Stevens; Thomas JSTickerson, Esq., Rudolph Fink, Esq., and D. B. Robinson, Esq., of the Mexican Central Railway Company ; and to Messrs. Spackman, Gardner, and ISTevin, of the Mexican ]^ational Railway Company, for much valuable information and assistance in the preparation of these pages. New York, November 1, 1S83. PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. In preparing a fifth edition the author desires to state that the book has been carefully revised and many pages of new matter have been inserted. The railways described in Sections YII, YIII, IX, XI and XIV are still in course of construction. When the lines are completed these chapters will, of course, be rewritten. The chief industry of Northern and Central Mexico is mining and it may be said that railway construction and operation come next in importance. In the develop- ment of the Republic the world will watch chiefly the mines, the railroads and the tropical products. This is especially applicable to American investors. Many mines have long been idle on account of the expense of exploitation and the cost of treating the ores. There are deposits of low-grade silver-lead and silver- iron ores which have never been worked until within the past year. The silver-lead -ore rulings of the United States Treasury Department in 1889, and the new tariff law of October 1, 1890, have caused the erection of PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. vii sinelting-works in various j)ortions of Mexico. The low- grade ores will thus be profitably treated and the output of silver will be increased. The depreciation of silver currency has been a great stimulus to agriculture, w^iich has heretofore received comparatively little attention. Referring to railroads, many miles have been built during the years 1891-92, and several lines will be com- pleted on or before January 1, 1894. Of these the most important are : 1. The Interoceanic {Morelos) Railway, from Puehla to Acapidco. 2. The Tehuantepec Railroad. It may be added that about one hundred miles of the Mexican* Southern Railroad were built during the past year, and the companies in Yucatan extended their sev- eral lines. The western branch of the Mexican National Railroad will soon be finished. The Jalisco Pacific Rail- way, between ManzaniUo and Guadalajara.^ about 225 miles long, is approaching completion. In 1891 a branch of the Mexican Central Railway was built from Tida to Pachuca. This concession includes the very valuable right to continue the line from Pachuca to the port of Taminco. The Credit Fonder Company has taken the contract to construct and to lease the Mexican Western Raih-oad from Topolohampo Harbor to Galveston, Texas, 1,100 miles, with branch lines in Mexico of 310 miles. It is interesting to trace the growth of Mexican rail- ways. In 1879 the number of miles of railroad in opera- viii PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. tion was 372; in 18S«» it was 3,725; and in 181)3 it is 0.500, with about 1,500 miles in course of construction. All the lines are subsidized, except the International Rail- road, from Ciudad Porjirio Diaz to Durat}ffo, 540 miles. The concessions to American capitalists include nearly 13,000 miles. Some of them have been forfeited for non-compliance with the stipulations of the contract. The American com})anies have built, in round numbers, 4,500 miles of railroad. Of this number about 1,200 are narrow-gauge. None of the American lines are as yet very protit- able, but their receipts are augmenting, and, with a mod- erate improvement in business and economical manage- ment, these railways will become good investments. The Mexicans are acquiring new wants, and the de- mand for foreign goods (especially improved agj-icult- ural implements) is constantly increasing. It should be stated that the traveler mav now 2:0 from Xew York to the City of Mexico in Jive days ; and 150 pounds of baggage are allowed passengers enter- ing Mexico from the United States. The allowance to local passengers on Mexican railroads is still thirty-three pounds. The formation of an evident railway and telegraph service has promoted peace and the stability of the Government. Political revolutions have ceased, brigand- age lias been suppressed, and a revival of national pride has occurred. A reciprocity treaty providing a free market for PREFACE TO TEE JIITH EDITIOX. IX Mexican live-srock. wool. t-L'ii-aoo:-. c-:-iice and fmir would be very beneficial to both countries, if sufficient rewards were obtained by which American manufaietiiies and products could be introduc-ed in Mexico on more advan- tageoTis terms than at the present time. The annual impjrrs of Mexico are e<^uiviileii: r._. ul^-uu s30.(mX».«Xm> in American currency. The import and ex- port trade of Mexico is chieliy with the United States. Trade between the two Eepubhcs is improving. In lSi»l the exports from Mexico amounted to ^83,^76.395, of which seventy per cent went to the United States. The gold value of the exports from Yet^ Cruz in 1SS9 ex- ceeded those of ISSS by the sum of #l,iXX>.0(K). The finances of the Government were never in a more prosperous state than at present. The national credit is slowly but steadily advancing and hl)eral appropriations for free schools and for public works have lately been made. Mexico is still deficient in hotel accommodation. Better hotels are needed and it is hoped that American investors will provide them. The author renews his expression of thanks to Senor ^I. Romero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, and to the various oflicials of the American railways, for great assistance in the preparation of tliis edition. If there be errors in this volume, the author will thank his readers to indicate them. New Yokk. April 15, ISSS. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PART FIRST CHAPTER 1. — Tvaveling in Mexico . Hints . When to Travel . How to Travel An Agricultural Trip A Mining Trip The Cost of Travel Railroads Steamships Diligences Horse-cars Horses and Mules Express . II. — History . III. — Geography Situation Boundaries Area . Topography . Mountains Rivers Lakes . Islands Climate Political Divisions IV. — Literature V. — Ruins . Mayapan Uxmal . s PAGE 1 1-2 3-4 4-5 6 6 6 7-12 12-13 13-14 14-15 15 15-16 16-24 25-33 25 25 25 25-30 25-28 29 29-30 30 30-31 32-33 33 34-49 36 36-38 Xll TABLE OF CONTENTS. Palenquc . Jlitlii . Tlic rvramids Cbolula San Juan Tcotihuacan Papantla Northern Mexico VI.— Hotels and Restaurant VII.— Passport VIII. — Custoin-IIouses IX. — Commerce X. — Army and Navy . XL— Duties . XII.— Taxes XIII. — Finance XIV.— Pidjlic Debt XV. — Money — Coins XVI.— Mints XVII.— Post-Office and Letters XVIIL— Telegraphs XIX. — Census XX.— Population XXI. — Architecture . XXIL— Painting . XXIII. — Immigration . XXIV.— Mines XXV. — Mineral Springs XXVL— Geology . XXVIL— Zoology XXVIIL— Dotany XXIX. — Agriculture XXX. — Maps and Surveys XXXI.— Stock-Raising . XXXII. — Weights and Measures XXXIII. — Labor and Wages XXXIV. — Wines and Liquors XXXV. — Cigars and Tobacco XXXV L — Manufactures XXXVII. — Native Productions XXXVIII.— Jewelry . TABLE OF CONTENTS. Xlll OHAPTEK PAOB XXXIX.— Theatres 122 XL. — Music .... 122-124 XLI. — Dances 124 XLII.— Festivals .... 124-125 XLIII.— Bull-fights . . . . 125-126 XLIV.— Cock-fights 126-12V XLV. — Costumes . 127-129 XLVL— Lotteries .... 129 XLVn.— Stores . . 129-130 XLVIII. — Pawnbroker-Shops 130-131 XLIX.— The Church . . 131-134 L. — Jurisprudence 134-137 LL — Education . 137-139 LIL — Newspapers 139-140 LIII. — Miscellaneous . . 140-143 LIV. — "What Mexico needs 143-146 PART SECOND. SECTION I. — How to reach Mexico . . . . . How to reach the Country .... Koute L — New York to Vera Cruz by Steamer Vera Cruz .... Jalapa . . . . . Route II. — New York to New Orleans by Rail, thence by Steamer to Vera Cruz Matamoros, Tampico, Tuxpan Route III. — New York to Laredo or El Paso, Texas, by Rail n. — The Mexican Railway Company from Vera Cruz to Mexico From Vera Cruz to Orizaba .... Orizaba ...... From Orizaba to Esperanza .... From Esperanza to Pacbla via Apizaco Puebla. ...... From Puebla to the City of Mexico ni. — The City of Mexico and Environs Hotels, Restaurants, Theatres, Carriages, Banks, Soci eties, etc., etc. .... History of Tenoehlitlan .... PAGE 147-159 147 147-152 152-154 154-155 156-158 157 158-159 160-174 160-163 163-165 165-169 169-170 171-173 173-174 175-201 175-176 176-179 XIV TABLE OF CONTENTS. Places of Interest .... Excursions around the Capital San Juan Teotihuacan Pachuca ..... •Cuernavaca .... IV. — The Mexican National Railway . Route I. — From the City of Mexico to Manzanillo Mexico to Toluca . Toluca Toluca to Maravatio Maravatio to Morclia . Acambaro. Morelia Morclia to Patzcuaro and thence to Man- zanillo .... Patzcuaro via Ario to JoruUo Acapulco ..... Route II. — From the City of Mexico to Laredo and Corpus Christi Mexico to Celaya . Celaya to San Luis Potosi San Luis Potosi . San Luis Potosi to Tampico . San Luis Potosi to Monterey Saltillo Monterey . Monterey to Laredo . New Laredo Laredo Laredo to Corpus Christi V. — The Mexican Central Railway Route I. — From the City of Mexico to Zacatccas Mexico to Queretaro . The Canal of Huehuetoca Queretaro . Queretaro to Guanajuato . Silao Guanajuato . Guanajuato to Lagos . Lagos to Guadalajara and San Bias TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV Lagos to Zacatecas Aguascalientes Aguascalientes to San Luis Potosi La Quemada . Zacatecas Durango Route n. — From Zacatecas to El Paso, Texas Zacatecas to Lerdo Lerdo to Chihuahua . Chihuahua to El Paso VL — The Monterey and Mexican Gulf Railroad Vn. — The Mexican Southern Railroad Northern Division Southern Division . Oaxaca and Mitla VIII. — The Morelos (Interoceanic) Railway . Mexico to Cuautla Amecameca and Popocatepetl Cuautla to Acapulco Table of Distances . IX. — The Tehuantepec Railroad X. — The Sonora Railway XI. — The American and Mexican Pacific Railway XII. — The New York, Texas and Mexican Railroad XIII. — The Mexican International Railroad XIV. — The Siualoa and Durango Railroad XV. — Table of Distances XVI. — Guatemala .... Geography Miscellaneous Route I. — Tonala, Mexico, to San Jose do Guatemala Route II. — San Jose to New Guatemala Guatemala . Old Guatemala . Appendix ..... Language ... Vocabulary .... Index ...... PAOE 273-276 273 273-274 275 276-278 279 280-289 280-282 282-284 285-287 290-293 294-297 294-295 295-297 295 298-304 298-303 299-303 303-304 304a 305-308 309-315 316-318 319-321 322-324 325 326 327-343 327-335 335-338 338 339 339-341 342-343 345-378 345-358 358-378 379-390 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. Ruins of Uxmal — The Governor's Palace . . . . Artificial Pyramid of Cholula ..... Indian Village — View taken at the Huesoculco Pueblo, Valley of Mexico ........ The Metlac Viaduct between Cordoba and Orizaba . Citlaltcpetel, or the Peak of Orizaba . . . . . The Sacrificial Stone, or Sacred Stone of Tizoc, in the Museum at Mexico ...... The Regla Falls ....... Maguey Plantations, San Franciscito District Acapulco ....... City of Tula — General View .... Panoramic View of Guanajuato .... Leon — View taken in the Main Thoroughfare Indian Settlements on the Islands of San Bias Bay Cathedral of Chihuahua ..... Indian Workwomen of the Hot Lands on the Pacific Slope Escuintla — General View ..... PAGS 36 43 146 163 168 186 197 203 236 259 266 269 272 284 305 339 ILTXSTRATIOXS IX THE TEXT. PART FIRST. PASE Scene in Mexico ...... . 26 Mexican Table-land ..... 28 Aztec Temple ...... . 44 Toltec Palace ...... 48 The Cathedral of Mexico .... . 70 Longitudinal View of Timbered Level 80 The Peak of Orizaba ..... . 84 The Axolotl ...... 87 Cochineal Insects on Branch of Cactus . . 88 Indigo Plant (Anil) ..... 90 Brazil-Wood, Leaves, Flower, and Fruit . . 91 The Vanilla Plant ..... 92 India-Rubber Plant {Hule) .... . 93 The Coffee Plant ..... 96 Cocoanut Palm ...... . 98 Mexican Porters ..... 109 Pulque Tlachiquero ..... . 113 PART SECOND, A Tropical Jungle . Jalapa .... A Mexican Carion The Pineapple Plant Cut showing Zone* of Vegetation The Nopal Popocatepetl 150 154 159 162 167 170 172 XVlll ILLUSTHATIONS. The Volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccilniati Phiza Mayor, Mexico Qiietzalcoatl FeathereiJ Serpent . Teoyaonii(nii The Noche-tiiste Tree The Aqueduct and Fountain, Mexico Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan Silver-Mill, Pachuca Indian Hut in the Tierra Caliente City of Colima . Manzanillo Bay A Paek-Traiu Jorullo The Cut of Nochistongo Plaza dc Armas, Guadalajara Scene in Northern Mexico Gathering Cochineal, Mexico Acapulco .... A Scene on the Isthmus of Tehuantepcc Fronteras, Sonora Magdalena .... Arispe ..... Defile in the Guadalupe Pass, Sierra Madre The Pitahaya .... Map of Guatemala ... Native of Mixco Volcan de Agua, Old Guatemala The Plaza, Quezaltenango General View of the City of Quezaltenango The National Institute, Guatemala The Government Building, Quezaltenango The National Theatre, Guatemala The Cathedral, Guatemala . The Plaza, Old Guatemala The Penitentiary, Quezaltenango PAET FIKST. GENEEAL Ij^FORMATIOK Traveling in Mexico. HINTS. The reader will generally find railway fares, hotel charges, tariffs for hacks, etc., given in the body of the Guide-Book, but a few words may be of use at the outset. The cost of traveling by rail in Mexico is considerably higher than in the Northern and Eastern States of the American Republic. (For table of fares, see chapter on railroads. ) There are first, second, and third class cars on the rail- roads. At present (1891), traveling in Mexico is as safe as in the western part of the United States, There are no brigands on the stage-roads any longer, except in the States of Jalisco and Sinaloa. It is well, however, to go armed, and to keep your fire-arms in. sight. Escorts of mounted guards called the Guardia Rural accompany the diligences. Train-robberies are thus far unknown. The traveler is ad- vised to take as little baggage as possible, as the railroads only allow 15 kilogrammes (33 pounds), and the diligences one arroha (25 pounds). The rates for extra baggage are 2 QESEEAL IX FORM ATI OX. very high. Wraps and haiid-bags, carried into the passen- ger-cars, are, of course, free of charge. Passengers must purchase tickets before their baggage can be checked. They will receive a paper check with a number correspond- ing to that of a label pasted on the trunk or valise. Wells, Fargo & Co. have established express agencies in the Repub- lic, and there arc baggage-express companies in Puebla and Mexico. In the large cities, coaches do not meet trains on arrival as in the United States, but horse-cars usually jjass the doors of the hotels. Hacks are common, and can be hired to the hotel at an average price of four reales. Diligence-drivers and railroad-porters do not expect fees. Carry soap and matches with you. The natives make ex- cellent wax-matches called cerillos, which are sold at one centavo a box. As regards clothing, the tourist docs not require as thick garments on the coast as upon the table- land. Woolen under-clothing should be worn all the year round on the tierra fria, and for three quarters of the year in the temperate zone. A Mexican blanket, or zarape, will be found very useful for the tourist, in addition to a cloak or overcoat. It can be put on the bed at night and will serve as a wrap in the diligences. A linen duster is of great service in the dry season. On first reaching Mexico, care should be taken to avoid exposure to the direct rays of the sun. Although sunstrokes are very rare, yet headache or fever comes from a strong sun, until the tourist has be- come acclimated. Solar hats should be worn in the sum- mer season. Keep out of the night air at first. There is a great difference between the temperature in the sun and in tlie shade on the table-land. Tourists should accord- ingly be careful to avoid taking cold. The facilities for washing clothes in Mexican cities are very poor, and it is advisable to have several changes of linen, so as not to be detained in a place on account of being obliged to wait for one's clean garments. TRA VELING IN MEXICO. 3 Wlien to travel. Owing to the configuration of the country, it is impor- tant that the tourist should select the proper seasons for traveling in the different zones. The best time for visiting the tierra caliente, or hot land, south of latitude 25 degrees, is in the winter months. Northers blow from November to March, thus cooling the atmosphere ; and the vomito, or yellow fever, rarely breaks out during this period. Tourists should not visit Vera Cruz between June 1st and November 1st. The tierra templada, or temperate zone, and the table- land, may be frequented at any season, although the winter climate of the former is somewhat preferable. If the tourist wishes to avoid the clouds of dust tliat rise on the great plateau of Mexico, he should travel in the rainy season, i. e., June to September. However, as many parts of Mexico can only be reached by the diligence lines (excepting on horseback), it is proper to state that both the summer and winter months have their advantages and dis- advantages. In the rainy season the air is delightful, but the roads are in such a condition, owing to the very heavy showers, that they are often almost impassable. Sometimes the stage-coach will sink into the soft mud of the highway, so as to render it impossible to proceed. In such a case, the coachman will walk to the nearest hacienda and borrow a yoke of oxen to aid the mules in dragging the vehicle upon firm ground. These occurrences may cause a delay of several hours. In some places the road will be flooded for perhaps a quarter of a mile, and in crossing such a spot the diligence is occasionally imbedded in the yielding soil to an extent that makes further progress utterly im- practicable, and the passengers may be compelled to spend the night in the coach. This latter event occurs only in a mountainous region. In short, the traveler can not 4 GENERAL INFORMATION. always make sure connections hy diligence in the summer season. Furthermore, the country is very sparsely settled. Vil- lages where the tourist can obtain food and lodging are few and far between. As the stage-coach oftentimes fails to reach the "regular" stopping-place of the route during the day's journey, these facts should be borne in mind ; and passengers are advised to carry provisions with them while traveling by diligence in the rainy season. On the other hand, the dust rising in qjoudp, which often envelop the vehicle so that the surrounding country is invisible for a few moments, constitutes tlij/only draw- back to traveling by diligence in the dry sea^^ The pas- sengers are certain to arrive on time, unless delayed by some accident. Invalids intending to winter in Mexico, should spend several days tnear the coast or in the tierra Umjplada, before exposing themselves to the rarefied atmos- phere of the table-land. How to travel. Unless the tourist is familiar with Spanish, he is strong- ly advised not to travel alone in Mexico. Large parties are not recommended, owing to the small number of bed- rooms in the hotels, and the limited capacity of the dili- gences. As a rule, the latter are run only three times a week, and the seats »re frequently engaged for days in advance. Neither have the comp;)nies more vehicles to *' put on " when the regular coach is filled with passen- gers. Occasionally the stranger will be obliged to spend two or three days in some uninteresting town while wait- ing for transportation. As yet there are no professional couriers, but they will doubtless nuike their appearance before long. In visiting the mining districts lying remote from cities, and in ascending the snow-clad mountains, a mozo, or ser- TRAVELING IN MEXICO. 5 vant, should accompany the toiirist. He will make himself generally useful, and his wages should not exceed one dol- lar a day. The following lists of short trips in Mexico are so ar- ranged as to allow the traveler to see as much as possible in a given space of time : Route I. Vera Cruz to Oordoba ^ day. lu Cordoba 1 do. To Orizaba and remain there 1 do. To Puebla -J do. In Puebla , 1|^ do. To Mexico City -^ do In Mexico 4 days. Kcturn to Vera Cruz 1 day. Total 10 days. Route II. Vera Cruz to Puebla 1 day. In Puebla 1 do. To Mexico City i do. In Mexico City 1| do. Return to Vera Cruz 1 do. Total 5 days. Route III. First part same as Route II 5 days, Mexico to Maravatio 1 day. Jlaravatio to Celaya 1 do. Celaya to Queretaro 1 do. Queretaro to Mexico 1 do. Total 9 days. Route IV. Same as Route III, with the addition of 2 days, from Celaya to the mines of Guanajuato and return. . 11 days. 6 GENERAL INFORMATION. An " Af/rictiUurrd'"' Trip. Supiiosing the traveler to be in tlie national capital, a visit should be made to Queretaro and Lagos by rail ; then to Guadalajara by diligence ; thence to Uruapan by dili- gence and horseback ; thence to Patzcuaro by horseback, and diligence to Morelia ; return to Mexico by rail via Mara- vatio and Toluca. A " Mining " Trip. Starting from the City of Mexico, let the tourist make an excursion to the town of Pachuca by rail and tramway, and then return to the capital. Then go by rail to Guana- juato and Zacatecas ; thence by diligence to Fresnillo, Som- brerete, or Durango. One can then reach the Mexican Cen- tral Railway at the nearest point, and visit Chihuahua, or return to the southern part of the Republic. The mining towns just mentioned are the most accessible, although by no means the only places worthy of the attention of the scientific traveler. Tlie Cost of Travel. If the tourist intends to move about a great deal, he will have to spend at least forty dollars a week. If, on the other hand, he wishes to linger in the cities and stay at the best hotels, twenty dollars a week will cover the cost of living outside of the capital. One month's trip from New York to Mexico and return, by steamer, will cost about $225. The same tour via New Orleans by rail, thence to Vera Cruz and return by steamer, will cost about S300. The expense of a journey from New York to Laredo, Texas, by rail, thence by rail to Saltillo, by stage-coach to Queretaro, and rail to the City of Mexico, will be about 8175, including sleeping-car fares, meals, and lodgmg at the diligence taverns. TRA VELING I^ MEXICO. RAILROADS, The great desideratum in Mexico has always been cheap and rapid transportation. For many years communication between the various towns could only be had by means of carts and on horseback. At length a system of diligences was established, which of course was only adapted to carry- ing passengers. The first line of railroad — that of the Mexi- can Eailway Company, connecting the city of Vera Cruz with the national capital — ^was begun in 1837. On Sep- tember 16, 1869, the branch of this road from Mexico to Puebla, a distance of 115f miles, was opened Avith great pomp and ceremony. Trains commenced running on the division between Orizaba and Vera Cruz on September 5, 1872, and the entire route was completed on January 17, 1873. The Mexican Government, in September, 1880, granted charters to the Mexican Central Eailway Company and to the Mexican National Construction Company, and in June, 1881, to the International and Interoceanic Eailway Com- pany. These corporations are the three great American trunk-lines of Mexico. In May, 1881, a concession was obtained by General XJ. S. Grant for a road to be known as the Mexican Southern Eailroad. The charters generally run for a term of ninety-nine years, at the end of which the roads revert to the Govern- ment. If the latter decides to sell or lease the lines, the companies are to be entitled to the preference. The Government, since 1867, has issued charters to the several States, and to various individuals, for the construc- tion of other railroads in the interior of the country. But none of these roads is of sufficient importance to merit an extended notice here, and many of the grantees have forfeited their charters for failure to complete their lines within the specified time. 8 GENERAL INFORMATION. The Liberal party in Mexico, who have recently come into power, believe that the develoj)meut of the immense mineral and agricultural resources of the country can only be accomplished by the construction of railroads. Accord- ingly, having but little public land to grant for this pur- pose, the Government pays subsidies,* with the object of encouraging both natives and foreigners to build railways. These subventions, as they are called, vary from $6,500 to 89,500 per kilometre, and are supposed to amount to about one third of the cost of the roads. They now reach a total of about 87,000,000 annually. A subsidy of 8560,000 a year is given to the Mexican Railway, which is the only completed line in the Re- public. It must not be a£,sumed, however, that these sub- ventions are paid-in money. Revenue bonds are issued without interest, and an amount, varying from 4 to 6 per cent of the customs duties, is set aside for their redemp- tion. The American trunk-lines extend from the Rio Grande to the City of Mexico. A branch of one of them, i. e., the Mexican Central Railroad, is being built across the country from the Gulf to the Pacific Ocean. Another branch, that of the Mexican National Railway, is already finished for nearly one half of tlie distance between the capital and Manzanillo, the terminus of this division. This company has lately consolidated all its concessions under the law of January 11, 1883. The Morelos Railway is expected to be continued to Acapulco, and the Tehuantepec Railroad will soon reach the Pacific coast. (See Sections VIII and IX.) Hence, it will be seen that in the course of a few years three lines of railway will connect the capital with the United States, and four roads will traverse the Republic * The total amount of railroad subsidies granted by the Mexican Gov- ernment is given in round numbers at §120,000,000. TRA VELING IX MEXICO. 9 from east to west, thus establishing communication be- tween tlie Gulf of Mexico and tlie Great Ocean. Other lines are progressing from Altata to Durango, from Piedras Negras toward Durango, and from Matamoros to Monterey. None of the trains on the various railroads, as a rule, carry escorts or guards, except the Mexican Eailway. A special car is provided on the latter for a squad of Fed- eral soldiers. Occasionally the Mexican National Eailway Company will send several guards on the pay-car, or on a train that transports an enormous amount of coin and bullion. The plan of building railways in Mexico has been to work from each end toward a middle point. This method proved very expensive to the Mexican road, but it is found expedient in the construction of the American trunk-lines. The latter rarely pass through the cities and towns along the route, as the inhabitants prefer to keep the railroad- track at a considerable distance. At Monterey the station is one and a half miles from the city. With the exception of the Mexican National Eailway and the Morelos Eailway (the latter being owned by Mexi- cans), the standard gauge has been adopted on the princi- pal lines of the country. These two roads are constructed of the narrow gauge {via angosta), which is thought to be well adapted to the wants of the region traversed by them. Mexico derives two great benefits from the construction of railroads — viz., in giving employment to a great many people, it produces a peaceful effect on them ; and, in case of a revolution, the Government can send troops to the seat of war within a few hours. The following table of charges for the transportation of freight and passengers on the trunk-lines will be found useful : 10 GENERAL INFORMATION. FREIGHT PER TON FOR EACH KILOMETRE. ROADS. First class. Second class. Third clasis. Cents. Mexican Central Railroad 6 Mexican National Railway 4 International and Interoccanie Railway 10 * Mexican .Southern Railroad 10 f Mexican Railway j 9 Cents. ' Cents. 4 3 7 71 2* 2 6 6 6i PASSENGER RATES PER KILOMETRE. ROADS. Mexican Central Railroad Mexican National Railway International and Interoceanic Railway Mexican Southern Railroad Mexican Railway Morelos Railway First Second class. class. Cents. Cents. 3 2 U 2 7 5 7 5 -^Ih 2,9^ H 1 Third class. Cents. H 1 3 . i Local fares are generally higher. As before stated, 15 kilogrammes (33 pounds) of baggage are allowed to each passenger. The rates for extra baggage are exorbitant. Coal and fire-wood are very dear and scarce along the lines of the principal railroads. The deposits of the former that occur in Mexico are generally found at a great distance from the railways, while the timber growing in the adjoin- ing regions is being rapidly cut down to be used for sleepers. The Mexican Railway Company imports compressed-coal cakes from England, as fuel for its engines. The rolling stock and permanent way of the trunk-lines may be concisely described as follows : The locomotives and cars of the Mexican Central Eail- * The Mexican Southern Railroad Company is allowed to charge | cent more for coal per ton than the International Railroad, f Railroad-iron costs $55 a ton for 263 miles. TEA YELING m MEXICO. H road are of American manufacture. There are very few bridges and tunnels along the line. The maximum grade is three feet per hundred. The higher officials, conduc- tors, and engineers are mostly Americans, while natives are employed as ticket-agents, baggage-masters, and brake- men. The company owns a telegraph line. The Mexican National Railway belongs, as above stated, to the narrow-gauge system. The locomotives and cars are made in the United States. The southern division has sev- eral tunnels and many bridges, some of which are of con- siderable dimensions, while the main line, north of Celaya, will traverse a fiat table-land, without any heavy grades or bridges, except in the vicinity of Saltillo. The company has erected a bridge across the Rio Grande, which is de- scribed in Section IV. The heaviest grade amounts to three and four fifths feet per hundred, and is found near the summit of the Toluca division. A telegraph line has been built by the company, but the Government reserves the right to put up a wire for its own use on the poles. Both of the American companies Just mentioned have time-tables printed in English and Sjoanish, and their ticket- agents can generally speak both languages. The Mexican Railway Company has imported most of its rolling-stock from England. The first-class carriages are built in the English style, Avith compartments, while the second and third class cars are on the American plan. The engineers are sent out from England and have charge of the train, whereas the conductors are merely ticket-col- lectors. French or English, besides Spanish, is spoken by the latter. There are many bridges and tunnels along the line, the former being made of iron resting on stone piers. The grades are very heavy between the stations of La Sole- dad and Esperanza, the maximum being five feet in a liun- dred. Owing to the great engineering difficulties, and to 12 GENERAL INFORMATION. the unsettled condition of the country during the period of construction, the main line cost $40,000,000. The company's telegraph is described in Section II. The Mexican International Eailroad is a standard-gauge line without tunnels. There are several bridges along the route and the maximum grade is but one per cent. The Mexican Southern Railroad is now controlled by an English company, but so little work has been done that a description of the permanent way would be premature. The Morelos Railway, now called the Inferoceanic, is a narrow-gauge road owned by a Mexican company. When it is completed there Avill be many bridges and tunnels and steep grades along the line. STEAMSHIPS. The Ward line of steamers runs from New York, via Havana, to Progreso, Oampeche, Laguna, Frontera, Vera Cruz, Tuxpan and Tampico. The Morgan line runs be- tween Morgan City, Galveston and Vera Cruz. Steamships sail from Vera Cruz to Europe as follows : 1. The French Transatlantic Company's line to St. Nazairc. 2. The German Royal Mail line to Havre and Hamburg, touching at Progreso and Tampico. 3. The English Royal Mail line to Liverpool via the Spanish ports (Cadiz, Coruiia or Santander) and Havre. 4. The Harrison line to Liverpool, touching at Progreso, Tuxpan and sometimes at Tampico. Small steamers sail from Matamoros (Bagdad) down the Gulf of Mcx- ico, calling at Tampico, Tuxpan, A^cra Cruz, Coatzacoalcos, San Juan IJau- tista, Frontei-a, Carmen Island, Champoton, Campeche and Progreso. (For particulars as to time of sailing, fares, etc., see advertisements.) On the Pacific coast are the following lines : 1. The Pacific Mail steamers touch at all the ports of Mexico and Gua- temala, beginning with Mazatlan. 2. The Sonora Railway steamers to La Paz, Mazatlan, Manzanillo and other poi'ts of Slexico and Central America. TRAVELING IN MEXICO. 13 3. The California line from San Francisco to Guayraas, stopping at Todos Santos, La Magdalena, San Jose del Cabo, Mazatlan and La Paz. 4. The Sinaloa and Durango Railroad steamers between Guaymas and AUata, touching at Mazatlan and sometimes at La Paz. 5. The Mexican line from Guaymas to Manzanillo, stopping at the in- termediate ports. DILIGENCES. The diligence system, or diligencias generates, was estab- lished in Mexico about fifty years ago. The central office is in the capital, and coaches are run from Cuernavaca on the south, to Durango and San Luis Potosi on the north. Other lines connect the latter town with Monterey, and also bring Durango in communication with Chihuahua. The smaller diligences that are driven between the towns lying beyond the routes of the "general" system are called diligencias particulares. The coaches are built in Mexico, after the "Concord" pattern. They soon wear out, owing to the rough pave- ments of the streets, and the bad condition of the roads. Each stage-coach has one and often two whijDpers besides the driver. The whipper will often descend from the box while the diligence is in motion, and run ahead, in order to strike the forward mules. When on the box he throws stones at tlie leaders. The coachmen generally drive in a very skillful manner, and are polite in their deportment to- ward the passengers. Eight mules are attached to each vehicle in the dry sea- son, and nine in the rainy season. They are arranged as follows : two wheelers and two leaders, with four animals abreast in between. Most of the diligences have accommo- dation for nine persons inside and three outside. The in- side is called el interior, and the outside el pescantc. A few of these vehicles have broader seats, so as to make room for twelve passengers within. 14 GENERAL INFORMATIOX. Travelers in tlie pescante should be on the lookout for the large lamjis that are hung on wires across the streets, at a height barely sufficient to allow the diligence to clear them while passing under. On the long trips the diligences generally start at 4 a. m., but occasionally not till 5 and 6 a. m. About 80 miles are traveled daily, which occupies from twelve to fifteen hours, according to the condition of the roads. It should be re- marked, that not more than two or three diligence-roads in the wdiole country are kept in repair, and the shaking and jolting to which the tourist is subjected are exceedingly dis- agreeable. Experienced Mexican travelers are able to sleep in the diligence during the early morning, but this is sel- dom tlie case with the stranger. On the arrival at the terminus of the day's journey, a crowd of porters and vagrants surround the vehicle, and importune the passengers to allow them to carry their baggage. A fee of G:^ cents {tin medio) is sufficient for the transi^ortation of a valise for a distance of two or three squares. Two dollars is the usual charge at the diligence taverns for sujDper, lodging, and breakfast. The price for lunch varies from 25 cents to 75 cents. Passenger fares range from 6 to 10 cents a mile. One arroha (25 pounds) of bag- gage is carried free, but the rates for additional weight are very high. Bundles of shawls and small boxes held in the hand are not charged for. Hacks may be hired for moderate distances, but posting is rare in the country. HOKSE-CARS. Tramways have been built in almost every city in Mex- ico. In many cases tracks have been laid to villages 10 and 15 miles distant, and a few horse-car roads connect stations on the railways with towns 30, 40, and even 60 miles off. TRAYELINQ IN MEXICO. 15 The longest tramway is from Vera Cruz to Jalapa, a dis- tance of 70 miles. In general the horse-car tracks are well laid out, and a locomotive and train of cars may run on them at some future time. It is said that engines will soon be put on the tramways from Vera Cruz to Jalapa, and from Puebla to Matamoros. There are both passenger and freight horse-cars in the Eepublic, the former being divided into first and second class. HOESES AND MULES. Excepting the road built by Cortes from Vera Cruz to the capital, all communication between the cities and towns of Mexico was for many years made on horseback. This mode of traveling is still common in the rural districts. Tourists occasionally make trips, with a few pack-animals to carry baggage and provisions, in the remote parts of the Eepublic. Kegular pack-trains of mules and iurros, or donkeys, are run on the western coast. Horses are com- monly fed on straw and corn. A good animal may be pur- chased for $50, and one able to make a short journey, for 120. Mules can be bought for about 130. If the tourist intends making a trip on horseback for ten days or longer, we would recommend him to purchase a horse instead of hiring one. These animals are always in demand, and can be sold at a slight loss on the completion of the journey. The average price for a saddle-horse is $1 per diem. In the larger cities the charge will be a little more. Pedestrianism in Mexico is thus far unknown, except- ing in the ascents of the lofty volcanoes. EXPRESS. Wells, Fargo & Co. have established express agencies it the following places in the Eepublic : Mexico (city) ; lula ; San Juan del Eio ; Queretaro ; Celaya ; Salamanca ; [rapuato ; Silao ; Guanajuato ; Leon ; Lagos ; Vera Cruz ; 3 16 GENERAL INFORMATION: Chihuahua (city) ; and in the principal ports on the Pacific coast of Mexico. Messrs. Wells, Fargo & Co. also carry a large amount of mail matter from these ports to San Francisco and to New York. II. History. It would be foreign to the aim of this guide-book to give a complete history of Mexico from the earliest times to the present day. We will confine ourselves chiefly to the chronology of the country. The early history of Mexico is involved in great obscu- rity. The traditions of the aborigines are so fabulous as barely to deserve mention. Picture-writings, mostly on cloth made from the maguey fiber, afford the principal means of investigating the origin of the primitive races. Unfortunately, nearly all of these historical illustrations were burned by order of the Spanish bishop Zumarraga, at the time of the Conquest. A few of them remain in Mexico, principally in the museum at the capital, and several have found their way to the libraries of Europe. According to an old painting, on maguey cloth, in pos- session of a resident of Uruapan, in the State of Michoacan, this country was settled by Indians, who came out of an immense cave and traveled over the realm on the backs of turtles, founding cities and towns wherever they went. Very little is known of the ancient history of Mexico, but, according to the best authorities — The Toltecs appeared in 648 a. d. The Chichimecs appeared in 1170 A. D. The Nahualtecs appeared in 1178 A. d. The Acolhuans and Aztecs aj^peared in 1196 A. D. HISTORY. IT There is a strong similarity of languages among all of these races. The Aztecs, according to Prescott, reckoned their calendar from a date corresponding to 1091 A. D. They divided the year into eighteen months of twenty days each, with five days added. Some writers helieve the Toltecs to be the mound-builders of North Amer- ica, but it is impossible to learn the names of their sov- ereigns in Mexico. The list of Chichimecan kings is as follows : Xolotl began to reign in the twelfth century. Nopaltzin began to reign in the thirteenth century. Tlotzin began to reign in the fourteenth century. Quinatzin began to reign in the fourteenth century. Tecotlalla began to reign in the fourteenth century. Ixtlilochitl began to reign in the year 1406. Nezahualcoyotl began to reign in the year 1426. Nezahualpilli began to reign in the year 1470. Cacamatzin began to reign in the year 1516. Cuicuitzcatzin began to reign in the year 1520. Coanacotzin began to reign in the year 1520. We are not aware that any author has given a chrono- logical account of the other primitive races. The Aztecs called the country Anahuac; and the capital TenocMittmi, which occupied the present site of the City of Mexico. They lived in barbaric pomp and Oriental splendor. Their kings and princes wore the most gorgeous dresses and costly jewels. (Their palaces and temples are j described in the chapter on ruins.) The reign of the Montezumas began about the year 1460. At the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, Monte- zuma II was on the throne. Authentic Mexican history really dates from the year 1517, when the Spanish naviga- tors began to explore the New World. The dates of the princijial events during the domination of the Spaniards are as follows : 18 OENEHAL INFORMATION. Feb. 28, 151 7. Cordova discovered Yucatan, landing at Cape Catoche. May 3, 1518. Grijalva landed on the Isle of Cozumel, and called Yucatan " New Spain." June 19, 1518. Grijalva landed at the mouth of the Rio Tabasco, and, sail- ing up the Gulf coast, reached the Rio Panuco, afterward returning to Cuba. lie was the first Spanish navigator who set foot on Mexican soil, and opened intercourse with the Aztecs. April 21, 1519. Cortes landed at Vera Cruz, and soon marched toward the City of Mexico, building a wagon-road thither. Nov. 8, 1519. The Spaniards enter the ancient capital. June 30, 1520. Death of Montezuma. July 1, 1520. The Spaniards evacuate the capital — noche iriste. July 8, 1520. The battle of Otumba. May 30, 1521. The siege of the City of Mexico begins. Aug. 13, 1521. Surrender of the capital to Cortes. 1528. First audiencia inaugurated with Nuno de Guzman, Presi- dent- 1535. Mint founded in Mexico. 1635. Rule of the viceroys began. There were sixty-four viceroys in two hundred and eighty-six years, i. e., up to 1821. All of them were Eu- ropeans except one, Juan de Acuna (1722-'34), who was born in Peru. They were endowed with royal i^rerogatives. During the vice-kingdom, Mexico was treated by Spain in the same manner as the English governed the United States before the American Revolution. In other words, there were great restrictions on commerce and agriculture. For- eign ships were not allowed to enter the ports. Learning was discouraged. The first and most prominent viceroy was Antonio de Mendoza (1535-'50). Many reforms and discoveries were made during his administration. Next to him, Pacheco (1789-'94) became most famous. Some of the other viceroys were — Velasco, Alamanza, Montesclaros, Salinas (avIio began the canal of Huehuetoca, in 1G07), Villena, Guelves, Ceralvo, Monclova, De Croix, HISTORY. 19 Monterey, Iturrigaray, Bucareli, and Jiiau O'Donoju, who was the last one. 1536. Cortes discovered Lower California. Dec. 2, 1534. Cortes died in Spain. 1810. Hidalgo and Morelos, two curates, declare against the Span- ish domination. A revolution follows, the army of the former is defeated, and — July 31, 1811, Hidalgo is executed in Chihuahua. The war of independ- ence lasted about ten years. The principal patriots were Allende, Abasolo, and Aldama, besides Hidalgo and Morelos. States have been named after the last two heroes, and towns bear the names of the others. Aug. 23, 1821. Mexico became independent by the treaty of Aquala. 1821. Agustln Iturbide, President of a provisional Junta; Mexi- co formed into an empire ; the crown declined by Spain. May 19, 1822. Iturbide proclaimed Emperor. Dec. 2, 1822. The Republic proclaimed at Vera Cruz. Mar. 26, 1823. Iturbide compelled to abdicate. 1823. Provisional government. July 19, 1824. Iturbide went to England ; returns and endeavors to recover his dignity, but is shot near Tampico. Oct. 4, 1824. First Constitution established, which is similar to that of the United States of America. The President must be native- boi-n, and holds office for a term of four years. The President, national delegates, governors of the several States, and their deputies, are elected by the people. The power of the Mexican Government consists of the execu- tive, legislative, and judiciary. April, 1825. Commercial treaty with Great Britain. 1825. Guadalupe Victoria, first President. 1828. Gomez Pedraza becomes next President. 1829. The United States recognizes the Mexican Republic. March, 1829. Expulsion of the Spaniards decreed. 1829. Guerrero third President. Sept. 26, 1829. Spanish expedition against Mexico, surrendered. Dec. 23, 1829. Mexican revolution ; President Guerrero deposed. 1830. Anastasio Bustamante, fourth President. Feb. 14, 1831. Guerrero executed. 1833. Pedraza President again for a few weeks. April 1, 1833. Santa Anna, fifth President. 20 GENERAL INFORMATION. Doc. 28, 1830. Independence of Mexico recognized by Spain. April 19, 1837. Bustamante again President. Nov. 30, 1838. Declaration of war against France. March 9, 1839. This war terminated. Mar. & July, " Santa Anna, revolutionary provisional President. 1839. Nicolas Bravo, President for one week ; sixth President. 18-tl-'44. Santa Anna, Nicolas Bravo, and Canalizo, dictators. 1844. Santa Anna, President for third time; seventh President. Sept. 20, 1844. Canalizo, President for second time; eighth President. June 4, 1845. War with the United States, growing out of the annexation of Texas. The question was a disputed boundary-line. Mexico claimed that the Nueces River was the frontier line, while the United States maintained that the Rio Grande was the proper boundary — hence the war. Gen- eral Zachary Taylor began the hostilities on the side of the latter. Dec, 1845. Herrera becomes ninth President. 1846. The Mexicans defeated at Palo Alto, May 8th ; and subse- quently at Matamoros. Aug. 22, 1846. Santa Fe captured. Sept. 24, 1846. Battle of Monterey. 1847. Paredes, tenth President. Feb. 22, 1847. Battle of Buena Vista ; the Mexicans defeated by General Taylor, with great loss, after two days' fighting. Santa Anna commanded the former. Jfarch 9, 1847. Scott landed at Vera Cruz, and marched westward. April 18, 1847. The Americans, under General Scott, defeat the Mexicans under Santa Anna, making 6,000 prisoners. Sept. 14, 1847. Scott captured the City of Mexico. 1848. Santa Anna, President fourth time; eleventh President. May 19, 1848. Treaty between Mexico and the United States ratified. 1850. Herrera, President second time ; twelfth President. 1852. Arista, President ; thirteenth President. Sept., 1852. Political convulsions. Jan. 6, 1853. President Arista resigns, and Santa Anna is invited to re- turn. 1853. Santa Anna, President fifth time ; fourteenth President. Jan., 1855. He abdicates; Carrera elected President; fifteenth Presi- dent. Dec, 1855. Carrera also abdicates, and is succeeded by Alvarez. 1855. Alvarez, President; sixteenth President. HISTORY. 21 Mar. 31, 1856. Property of the clergy sequestrated. Feb. 5, 1857. New Constitution. July, 1857. Comonfort chosen President ; seventeenth President. Jan. 11, 1858. Coup d''eiat ; Comonfort compelled to retire. Jan. 21-26, " General Zuloaga takes the government. Feb. 11, 1858. Benito Juarez declared constitutional President at Vera Cruz ; cighteentli President. Aug. to Nov.," Civil war; several engagements. Jan. 6, 1859. General Miguel Miramon nominated President at Mexico by the Junta ; nineteenth President. Feb. 2, 1859. Zuloaga abdicates. Feb., 1859. In consequence of injury to British subjects, ships of war are sent to Mexico. April 10, 1859. Miramon forces the lines of the Liberal generals, enters the capital, assumes his functions as governor, and governs without respect to the laws of life and property. July 13, 1859. Juarez confiscates the Church property. Dec. 21, 1859. Miramon and the clerical party defeat the Liberals under Colima. Mar. 5, 1860. He besieges Vera Cruz; bombards it; March 21st, com- pelled to raise the siege. May 1, 1860. General Zuloaga deposes Miramon, and assumes the presi- dency; twentieth President. May 9, 1860. Miramon arrests Zuloaga; May 10th, the diplomatic bodies suspend official relations with the former. Aug. 10, 1860. Miramon defeated by Degollado. Oct., 1860. He governs Mexico with much tyranny ; the foreign minis- ters quit the City. Jan. 19, 1861. He is compelled to retire ; Juarez enters Mexico and is re-elected President ; twenty-first President. June 30, 1861. Juarez made dictator by the Congress. July 17, 1861. The Mexican Congress decides to suspend payments to for- eigners for two years — July 27, 1861. Which leads to the breaking oif of diplomatic relations with England and France. Oct. 31, 1861. In consequence of many gross outrages on foreigners, the British, French, and Spanish Governments, after much vain negotiation, claiming efficient protection of for- eigners, and the payment of arrears due to fund-holders, sign a convention engaging to combine in hostile opera- tions against Mexico. 22 GENERAL INFORMATION. Dec. 8, 1861. Spanish troops land at Vera Cruz; December 17th, it sur- renders. Dec 15, 1861. The Mexican Congress dissolves, after conferring full powers on the President. Jan. 7, 8, 1862. A Briti.sh naval and French military expedition arrives. Jan., 1862. The Mexicans determine on resistance, and invest Vera Cruz ; their taxes are raised 25 per cent. Feb., 1862. Miranion arrives, but is sent back to Spain by the British admiral. Feb., 1862. Project of establishing a Mexican monarchy for the Arch- duke Maximilian of Austria disapproved of by the British and Spanish Governments. Feb. 19, 1862. Negotiation ensues between the Spaniards and Mexicans; convention between the commissaries of the allies and the Mexican General Doblado at Soledad. March, 1862. The Mexican General Marquez takes up arms against Juarez, and General Almonte joins the French General Lorencez. Juarez demands a compulsory loan, and puts Mexico in a state of siege. April 9, 1862. Conference between plenipotentiaries of the allies at Ori- zaba; the English and Spaniards declare for peace, which is not agreed to by the French, who declare war against Juarez on April 16th. May, 1862. The Spanish and British forces retire; the French Govern- ment sends rc-euforcemcnts to Lorencez. May 5, 1862 The French, induced by Marquez, advance into the interior; severely repulsed by General Zaragoza, at Fort Guada- lupe, near Puebla. June 13, 11, " The French defeat the Mexicans at Ccrro del Borrego, near Orizaba. August, 1862. The Mexican Liberals said to be desirous of negotia- tion. Aug. 28, 1862. General Forey and 2,500 French soldiers land. Sept., 1862. Letter from the Emperor Napoleon to Lorencez, disclaiming any intention of imposing a government on Mexico, an- nounced. Sept. 8, 1862. Death of Zaragoza, a great loss to the Mexicans. Oct., 1862. General Forey deprives Almonte of the presidency at Vera Cruz, and appropriates the civil and military power to himself. Oct. 19, 1862, Oitcga takes command of the Mexican army. HISTORY. 23 Oct. 27, 1862. The Mexican Congress assembles, and protests against the French invasion. Jan. 13, 1863. The French evacuate Tampico. Feb. 24. 1863. Forey marches toward Mexico. Mai'. 29, 1863. Siege of Puebla, bravely defended ; severe assault, March 31st to April 3d. May 18, 1863. It is surrendered at discretion by Ortega. May 31, 1863. The Republican Government remove to San Luis Potosi. June 5, 1863. Mexico occupied by the French, under Bazaine. June 10, 1863. His army enters the capital. July 10, 1863. Assembly of notables at Mexico decide on the establish- ment of a limited hereditary monarchy, with a Roman Catholic prince as Emperor, and offer the crown to the Archduke Maximilian of A.ustria ; a regency established. Aug. 11, 1863. The French reoccupy Tampico. Oct. 1, 1863. Marshal Forey resigns his command to Bazaine, and returns to France. Oct. 3, 1863. The Archduke Maximilian accepts the crown, under condi- tions. Nov. 12, 1863. The Mexican General Comonfort surprised and shot by par- tisans. Dec. 18, 1863. Successful advance of the imperialists; Juarez retires from San Luis Potosi. Dec. 24, 1863. It is entered by the imperialists. Jan., Feb., '64. The French occupy various places. Feb. 27, 1864. The ex-President, General Santa Anna, lands at Vera Cruz, professing adhesion to the empire ; March 12th, dismissed by Bazaine. April 3; 1864. Juarez enters Monterey, which becomes the seat of the Re- publican Government. April 10, 1864. The Archduke Maximilian definitively accepts the crown from the Mexican deputation at Miramar. May 29, 1864. The Emperor and Empress land at Vera Cruz; June 12th, enter the City of Mexico. August, 1864. The Emperor visits the interior ; grants a free press. I Dec. 27, 1 864. The Republicans defeat the Imperialists at San Pedro. Jan. 1, 1865. Juarez at Chihuahua exhorts the Mexicans to maintain their independence. J.an. 18, 1865. The Emperor institutes the order of the Mexican Eagle. Feb. 9, 1865. Surrender of Oaxaca to Marshal Bazaine. . April 10, 1865. A temporary Constitution promulgated. 24 GENERAL INFORMATION. June, 1865. Ortega, at New York, enlists recruits for the Republican army, which is discountenanced by the United States Government. Maximilian I (brother to the Emperor of Austria), born July 6, 1832; accepted the crown April 10, 1864; married, July 2Y, 1857, to Princess Charlotte, daughter of Leo- pold I, King of the Belgians ; adopts Augustus Iturbide as his heir, September, 1S65. October, 1865. The Emperor proclaims the end of the war, and martial law against all armed bands of men. October, 1865. Juarez re-elected President second time. June 19, 1867. Execution of Maximilian at Quer6taro. 1869. Juarez re-elected President third time. July 18, 1872. Death of President Juarez. 1872. Lerdo de Tejada, twenty-second President. Jan. 17, 1873. English railway, from Vera Cruz to Mexico (263 miles), com- pleted. June 20, 1876 Dsath of Santa Anna. Oct., Nov., " Serious revolution in Mexico. Lerdo de Tejada, though elected a second time, is prevented by the Diaz party from serving as President. Dec. 1, 1876. Juan N. Mendez, twenty-third (provisional) President. May 5, 1877. Porfirio Diaz, twenty-fourth President. May 5, 1877. Amendment of the Constitution, prohibiting the election of the President and the Governors of the States to a sec- ond term of office. Dec. 1, 1880. Manuel Gonzalez, twenty-fifth President. Dec. 1, 1884. Manuel Gonzalez's term expired.* Dec. 1, " Porfirio Diaz, the late Governor of the State of Oaxaca, was duly declared President of the Republic for the term of four years. No revolution has taken place since 1876. Books of reference : Prescott, Conquest of Mexico ; Eobertson, History of America ; Lucas Alaman, Hisioria de Mejico ; Zamacois, Historia de Mejico. * Many of these events are taken from Haydn's Dictionary of Dates. GEOGRAPHY. 25 III. Geography. SiTUATioi>r. — The Mexican Eepublic extends from the 15th to the 32d degrees of north latitude, and from the 87th to the 117th meridians of longitude west from Green- wich.* BouJSTDAEiES. — Mexico is bounded on the north by the United States of America, whose frontier is marked as fol- lows : from the mouth of the Rio Bravo, or Eio Grande del Norte, following the course of the river to the paral- lel of 31° 47' ; thence it is continued for 100 miles to the west on the same parallel, then to the south to latitude 31° 11'. It now follows the latter parallel to the 111th meridian, and then runs to the northwest as far as the Rio Colorado, in latitude 32° 29' 45", and, crossing this river, is marked by the dividing line between Upper and Lower California at the Bay of San Diego. The length of the northern frontier is 1,900 miles. On the east, by the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean ; on the west, by the Pacific Ocean ; and, on the south, by the Republic of Guatemala f and the territory of Balize, or British Hon- duras. Area. — Mexico contains, according to Busto's Esta- distica de la Repilblica Mexicana, 1,958,912 square kilo- metres, or 756,336 square miles. The Statesman's Year- Booh gives the area at 743,948 square miles. Topography. — Mountains. — The Republic is traversed by the continuation of the Cordillera of South America, which in Mexico is called the Sierra Madre. It trends northwesterly from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. * Approximately. f The long-disputed boundary question between Mexico and Guatemala has recently been decided in favor of tlie former. 26 GENERAL INFORMATION. This range has a moderate elevation in the southern States of Chiapas and Oaxaca ; but in latitude 19°, the mean altitude is about 9,000 feet above the sea-level, and two peaks, Popocatepetl and Orizaba, rise to the great ele- vations of 17,720 feet and 17,200 feet respectively. The former mountain is the culminating point of North Amer- Scme in Mexico. ica. On the parallel of 21° the Cordillera becomes very- wide, and divides itself into three ranges. The eastern branch runs to Saltillo and Monterey ; the western branch traverses the States of Jalisco and Sinaloa, and subsides in Northern Sonora ; while the central ridge extends through the States of Durango and Chihuahua, forming the water- shed of the northern table-land. The range decreases in elevation in going northward. GEOGRAPHY. 27 Four peaks — viz., Popocatepetl, Iztaceihuatl, Orizaba, the Nevada de Toluca — rise above 15,000 feet ; and three others — the Cofre de Perote, Ajusco, and the volcano of Colima — are upward of 11,000 feet in altitude. (The exact heights of these mountains are given in Part II.) Eef er- ring to these lofty peaks, Humboldt remarks : * "On the great table-land, the colossal mountains covered with per- petual snow seem, as it were, to rise out of a plain. The spectator confounds the ridge of the soft swelling land, the elevated plain, with the plain of the lowlands, and it is only from a change of climate, the lowering of the tem- perature under the same degree of latitude, that he is re- minded of the height to. which he has ascended." The country is divided into three zones — viz. , the tierra caliente, or hot land ; the tierra templada, or temperate land ; and the tierra fria, or cold land. About one half of the surface of Mexico lies in the latter zone, the remainder of the Eepublic being almost equally divided between the tierra templada and tierra caliente. Geographers differ in defining the limits of the various zones, as is shown by the following table : ZONES. Tierra caliente . . Tierra templada. Tierra fria According to Humboldt. Up to 3,936 feet. Up to 7,217 feet. Above 7,217 feet. According to Mllner. Up to 2,000 feet. From 2,000 to 5,000 feet. From 5,000 to 8,000 feet. The coasts of the Eepublic are low, but the land rises gradually upon going toward the interior. The flat region of the eastern part of Mexico is wider than that of the westei-n coast. In the former the tierra caliente has an average breadth of about 65 miles, while in the latter it varies from 40 to 70 miles. * Cosmos, vol. V, p. 379, 2S GENERAL INFORMATION. The annexed cut shows an exaggerated profile of the country between the two oceans : Mexican Table-land. Mexico consists for the greater part of an elevated pla- teau having a mean height of about 6,000 feet above the sea-level. This plateau extends from the frontier of the United States to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. It is widest in the latitude of the national capital, being about 350 miles at this point, and contracts gradually toward the south. The principal table-lands of the northern Mexican pla- teau are that of Chihuahua, which lies north of latitude 24°, and east of the Conchos and Florida Eivers, and hav- ing an elevation of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet, and that of Anahuac, which is from 6,000 to 8, 000 feet high. There are four distinct table-lauds on the central plateau, as follows : That of Toluca, having a mean elevation of 8,570 feet. That of Tenochtitlan, " " 7,470 feet. That of Aclopan, " " 6,450 feet. That of Istla, " " 3,320 feet. Two passes, about 500 miles apart, afford an outlet from the great table-land to the eastward — viz., that of Jalapa, through which Cortes built a road during the Conquest ; and one at Saltillo, through which the United States troops reached the plateau during the Mexican War. In referring to the uniform character of the surface of the great plateau of Mexico, Humboldt has remarked in the Cosmos, vol. v, p. 380, that the traveler may proceed in a four-wheeled carriage on the ridge of the table-land, from the City of Mexico to Santa Fe, a distance of at least GEOGRAPHY. 29 1,200 miles, without the advantage of artificially prepared roads. KiVERS. — Mexico, on account of the narrow form of the continent, which prevents the collection of a great mass of water, contains very few navigable streams, the principal ones being the Goatzacoalcos and P^nuco Eivers. There are sand-bars at the mouths of many of the rivers, on which not more than three or four feet of water is to be found at low tide. Several streams could be made navigable at com- paratively small expense. This fact would apply especially to the Eio de Santiago, the longest river in the Republic, according to Humboldt, who states that it is as long as the Elbe or Ehone, and that the grain from the States of Gua- najuato and Jalisco could be thus transported to the west- ern coast. The following list gives the names and lengths of the principal rivers in Mexico : Miles. Miles. Rio de Santiago 542 Rio de las Balzas 418 Rio Yaqui 338 RioConchos 338 Rio de Grijalva 344 Rio Usumasinta 341 Rio PSnuco 286 Rio de Sinaloa Ill RiodeUres 208 Rio de Culiacan 156 Rio de Goatzacoalcos 112 Lakes. — There are many lakes on the Mexican plateau, most of which are extensive shallow lagoons, as in the val- leys of Mexico and Parras. They are only the remains of large basins of water that formerly existed on the high plains of the Cordillera. The majority of these lakes have no outlet, and are accordingly filled with salt water. Owing to rapid evaporation, their surface has diminished appreci- ably since the time of the Spanish Conquest. The Lagoon {laguna) of Terminos, on the coast of the Gulf of Campeche, is the largest in Mexico, but it is an arm of the sea, rather than a lake. 30 QEKERAL INFORMATIOK Strictly speaking, the Lake of Chapala, in the State of Jalisco, is the largest in the country. Lake Patzcuaro and Lake Cuitzeo are next in importance among the inland bod- ies of fresh water. Islands. — Mexico owns many islands on the west coast, the principal of which are San Ignacio, Angel de la Guarda, Salsipuedcs, Tibaron, Carmen, and Cerralvo, in the Gulf of California ; Cerros, Santa Margarita, and Las Tres Marias, in the Pacific Ocean. There are also several islands belong- ing to the Republic in the Gulf of Mexico, and off the coast of Yucatan, of which the most important are Carmen, in the former, and Mugeres, Cancun, and Cozumel, adjoining the latter. Guano islands abound in the southern part of the Gulf of Mexico, some of them being claimed by citizens of the United States. CLiiNiATE. — No country on the globe has a greater rariety of climate tlian Mexico. The mean temperature of the three zones is as follows : for the tierra calienie, 77°; for the tierra templacla, from 68° to 70° ; and in the tierra fria, 62° Fahr. Sudden changes of temperature are uncommon in the lat- ter, and likewise in the tierra templada, but they are fre- quent in the former zone. In Vera Cruz, the mercury often stands at 90° in the warm season, but, if the wind suddenly changes to the northward, it will sink to 65° Fahr. in a few hours. The rainy season varies slightly in different parts of Mexico, but always occurs in summer. In Yucatan, Cam- peche, Tabasco, and Chiapas, it lasts from ilay to October, while the season begins a little later in the States of Oaxaca and Guerrero. In the latitude of the national capital, the rains fall between June 1st and October 1st, with occasional showers during the winter, especially in February, when the weather is very changeable. The Mexicans have a prov- erb which runs thus : 1 OEOQRAPHY. 31 " Febrevo loco, Porque de todo, Tiene un poco," which, being interpreted, means, February is a fool be- cause it has a little of everything, ^. e., all kinds of weather. According to Humboldt, the annual rainfall at the City of Mexico amounts to fifty-nine inches. In the northern part of Mexico, the rainy season is in the months of July, August, September, and half of October. Snow falls in winter at an elevation of about 8,500 feet. According to Humboldt, the line of perpetual snow in Mex- ico is 15,091 feet above the level of the sea.* The atmosphere on the Mexican plateau is very dry. This aridity proceeds from two causes : 1. The evapora- tion that occurs on great plains, which is increased by the high table-land ; and, 2. The country is not sufficiently elevated for a considerable number of the mountains to penetrate the region of perpetual snow. Tourists are liable to suffer from thirst and chapped lips on arriving in the valley of Mexico, owing to the dryness of the climate. The nights are cold throughout the year on the great table-land north of the eighteenth parallel of latitude. In general, the temperature will sink as low as 45° Fahr., and occasionally the thermometer will fall to the freezing-point pn the higher plains. The coldest part of the night is just before daybreak. In tlie vicinity of the snow-clad moun- tains, the sky is usually free from clouds in the early morning, but toward nine o'clock they rise gradually, and often cover the higher peaks for the remainder of the :lay. In the tier r a caliente, and in the greater part of the Uerra templada, a clear sky prevails, as a rule, during the nitire year, except for a few hours of the day during the 'ainy season {el tiempo de agna). Strong winds are com- * Under the equator the snow-line is estimated at 15,750 feet. 4 32 GENERAL INFORMATIOK mon on the table-land, and the dust often rises in clouds i on the sandy plains. Political Divisions. — New Spain was formerly di- vided into ten districts, viz. : The kingdoms of Mexico, New Galicia, and Leon ; the colony of New Santander, and the provinces of Texas, Coaliuila, New Biscay, Sonora, New Mexico, and tlie two Californias. The country was subsequently partitioned into twelve intendancies and three provinces, as follows : ■ 1. The province of New Mexico. 2. The iutendancy of New Biscay, or Durango. ^ 3. The province of New California. 4. The province of Old California. 5. The intendancy of Sonora. 6. The intendancy of San Luis Potosi.* 7. The intendancy of Zacatecas . 8. The intendancy of Guadalajara. 9. The intendancy of Guanajuato. 10. The intendancy of Valladolid. 11. The intendancy of Mexico, f 12. The intendancy of Puebla. 13. The intendancy of Vera Cruz. 14. The intendancy of Oaxaca. 15. The intendancy of Merida, or Yucatan. The Republic of Mexico is now divided into twenty seven States, one Territory, and one Federal District. Th( several States are subdivided into 48 departments, 170 di& tricts, 48 cantons, 110 counties, 1,411 municipalities, 146 cities, 378 towns, 4,886 villages, 872 hamlets, 6 missions. 5,869 haciendas, and 14,705 ranches. The populations of the several States are given in th< chapter on the census. It is worthy of remark, however that Jalisco has the largest number of inhabitants. The * The largest as regards area, f The largest in population. LITERATURE. 33 following is a list of the Mexican States^ classified accord- ing to superficial area : Square kilometres. Chihuahua 22*7,716 Sonora 209,694 Lower California (Territory) 152,847 uoahuila de Zaragoza 152,517 Jalisco 114,896 Durango 110,463 Yucatan 84,585 ramaulipas 75,191 San Luis Potosi 71,210 V"era Cruz-Llave 71,116 Daxaca 70,838 Sinaloa 69,211 ^acatecas 68,596 juerrero 68,568 iampeche 67,539 Total 1,958,912 Square kilometre?. Michoacan de Ocampo 55,693 Chiapas 43,930 Nuevo Leon. 38,156 Tabasco 32,935 Puebla 31,120 Mexico 25,972 Hidalgo 21,693 Guanajuato 20,276 Queretaro de Orteaga 8,300 Colima 7,136 Aguascalientes 5,776 Morelos 4,536 TIaxcala 3,898 Federal District 231 IV. Literature. Up to the present time Mexican literature has occupied a subordinate position compared to that of Europe and the United States. The people of Mexico are acquainted more bxtensively with French literature than witli that of any pther country. Prieto is the great national poet ; while Cu- bllar, Mateos, Contreras, Paz, Peza, Payno, Altamirano, Justo Sierra, Carpio, and Riva Palacio are the best-known novel- ists. The latter author is also a dramatic writer. The prevailing style of books that are read in the Ee- public are Spanish translations of French and English vol- umes. Books are admitted free of duty, and many of the svorks used in the country are printed in the Spanish lan- guage at Paris. 34 GENERAL INFORMATION. V. Enins. Excepting the teomlli.^, or pyramids, all of the impop tant ruins in Mexico are situated in the States of Yucatan Chiapas, and Oaxaca. A discussion of the comparative ages of these ancien remains, together with the most plausible theories as to their origin, would be foreign to the purpose of this vol- ume. Suffice it to say, that the Mexican antiquarians of the present day consider the ruins of Uxmal, in Northern Yucatan, to be the oldest ; those of Palenque, in Chiapas, next in rank ; and Mitla, in Oaxaca, third in point of age. It is worthy of remark that neither Palenque nor Mitla (the former being buried in a dense forest), was known to the outside world until a comparatively recent period — i. e., about 1750 ; but the remains in Yucatan were familiar to Europeans long before. These ruins Avere built of hewn stone, and all writers have referred to the skill in architecture and workman- ship exhibited in them. The ordinary dwelling-houses must have been made chiefly of wood, or of some other ma- terial that perished long ago, for at the present time no traces of them are visible. Great cities and temples are to-day concealed by thick forests, and the traveler can not form a correct idea of their original size. It is to be regretted that, with the present limited facilities for traveling, many of the ruins of Southern Mexico are difficult of access. The princi- pal remains lie remote from the sea-coast and also from the lines of railroad. Let us begin with the ruined edifices of Yucatan, and describe the places in their geographical and supposed his- torical order. RUINS. 35 Baldwin, in Ancient America, p. 101, says : *'Near the ruins, ... in Yucatan, are- frequently found the remains of many finely-constructed aguadas, or artificial lakes. The bottoms of these lakes were made of flat stones laid in cement, several layers deep. In Yucatan traces of a very ancient paved road have been found. This road ran north and south, and probably led to cities in the region now covered by the great wilderness. It was raised above the graded level of the ground, and made very smooth." The same author, on pp. 125, 126, states : '' The re- mains of ancient cities are abundant in the settled portion of Yucatan which lies north of the great forest. Charnay found ' the country covered with them from north to south.' Stephens states, in the preface to his work on Yucatan, that he visited 'forty-four ruined cities or places,' in which such remains are still found, most of which were unknown to white men, even to those inhabiting the country. . . . ' ' Previous to the Spanish Conquest, the region known to us as Yucatan was called Maya. It is still called Maya by the natives among themselves.* . . . "At that time the country was occupied by the people still known as Mayas. . . . Yucatan was then more popu- lous than at present. The people had more civilization, more regular industry, and more wealth. They were much more highly skilled in the arts of civilized life. They had cities and large towns. . . . This peninsula had been the Beat of an important feudal monarchy, which arose prob- ably after the Toltecs overthrew the very ancient kingdom of Xibalba. It was broken up by a rebellion of the feudal lords about a hundred years previous to the arrival of the Spaniards. According to the Maya chronicles, its down- "all occurred in the year 1420. Mayapan, the capital of :his kingdom, was destroyed at that time, and never after- crard inhabited." * The Maya language is spoken in Yucatan at the present day. — A. R. C. 36 GEyBRAL information: The most important ruins are found at Mayapan, Ux- mal, and Chichen-Itza, in the northern part of the penin- sula. We will describe them in the following order : MAYAPAN. The remains of this ancient capital lie about thirty miles south of Merida. They are scattered over a broad plain. The jsrincipal edifices are the great mound and a circular stone structure. The former is sixty feet in height, and has a base that is one hundred feet square. Four stair- ways, twenty-five feet in width, lead to the summit, which consists of a simple stone platform fifteen feet square. The latter building is twenty-five feet in diameter, and stands on a sloping foundation thirty-five feet in height. Two rows of columns, without capitals, and lying eight feet apart, are seen on the southwestern side of it. Brasseur de Bourbourg ranks several of the foundations of the Maya- pan edifices with the oldest seen at Palenque. About forty miles south of Mayapan are found the far- famed ruins of UXMAL. Stephens says that the Uxmal remains are worthy to stand side by side with those of Egyptian and Roman art.* Baldwin, in Ancient America, pp. 131-136, describes Ux- mal as follows : " The ruins in Uxmal have been regarded as the most important in Yucatan, partly on account of the edifices which remain standing, but chiefly because they have been visited and explored more than the others. . . . The area covered by its remains is extensive. Char- nay makes it a league or more in diameter, but most of the structures have fallen, and exist only in fragments scattered over the ground. . . . * Licidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, vol. ii, p. 430. RUINS. 37 " The most important of those remaining was named ^ Casa del Goberuador ' by the Spaniards. It is 320 feet long, and was built of hewn stone laid in mortar or cement. The faces of the wall are smooth up to the cornice. Then follows, on all four sides, ' one solid mass of rich, compli- cated, and elaborately sculptured ornaments, forming a sort of arabesque.' . . . This building has eleven doorways in front, and one at each end, all having wooden lintels which have fallen. The two princijDal rooms are 60 feet long, and from 11 to 13 feet wide. This structure is long and narrow. ... It stands on the summit of one of the grandest of the terraced foundations. This foundation, like the others, is pyramidal. It has three terraces. The lowest is 3 feet high, 15 wide, and 575 long ; the second is 20 feet high, 275 wide, and 545 long ; the third, 19 feet high, 30 wide, and 360 long. Structures formerly existed on the second terrace, remains of which are visible. . . . "Another important edifice at TJxmal has been named * Casa de las Monjas ' — House of the Nuns. It stands on a terraced foundation, and is arranged around a quadrangu- lar courtyard 258 feet one way and 214 the other. The front structure is 279 feet long, and has a gateway in the center, 10 feet 8 inches wide, leading into the court, and four doors on each side of it. The outer face of the wall, above the cornice, is ornamented with sculptures. . . . All the doorways, save those in front, open on the court.'' . . . "Other less imj)ortant edifices in the ruins at Uxmal have been described by explorers, some of which stand on high pyramidal mounds ; and inscriptions are found here, but they are not so abundant as at Palenque and Copan." The remains at Chichen-Itza are similar to those at Uxmal. They are situated a few leagues east of Mayapan, * Stephens has remarked tliat there are no idols, nor stuccoed figures, nor carved tablets at Uxmal. 38 GENERAL INFORMATIOK in northern Yucatan. The i3riucipal buildings are the "church," the paUice of the monks, tlie red house or ca.m colorada, and the ''gymnasium,'' or tennis-court. In one of the edifices are found rooms whose walls are covered with picture-writing. Some of them are ornamented with figures of serpents. There are other ruins of importance at Izamal, Labna, Zayi, and Xcoch, in the northern and central portions of Yucatan, but they are of the same general character as those above mentioned. One remarkable ruin is found at Ake, in the northern part of the State. It was once a massive structure, but at the present day only thirty-six columns in three parallel rows remain. They are about fifteen feet high and four feet square. Euins may also be seen on the island of Cozumel. ( Vide Section I in Part second for description of routes.) PALENQUE. Baldwin, in Ancient America, pp. 104-lOG, thus de- scribes the ruins at this place : " No one can tell the true name of the ancient city now called Palenque. It is known to us by this name because the ruins are situated a few miles distant from the town of Palenque, now a village, but formerly a place of some importance. . . . More than two hundred years passed after the arrival of the Spaniards before their existence became known to Europeans. They were discovered about the year 1750. " Since that year decay has made some progress in them. Captain del Eio, who visited and described them m 1787, examined ' fourteen edifices ' admirably built of hewn stone, and estimated the extent of the ruins to be 'seven or eight leagues one way (along the Eiver Cliacamas), and half a league the other.' He mentions 'a subterranean aqueduct of great solidity and durability, which passes under the largest building.' . . . HUMS. 39 " The largest known building at Palenque is called the * Palace. ' It stands near the river, on a terraced pyramidal foundation, 40 feet high and 310 feet long, by 260 feet broad at the base. The edifice itself is 238 feet long, 180 wide, and 25 feet high. It faces the east, and has 14 door- ways on each side, with 11 at the ends. It was built en- tirely of hewn stone, laid with admirable precision in mortar, which seems to have been of the best quality. A corridor 9 feet wide, and roofed by a pointed arch, went round the building on the outside ; and this was separated from another within of equal widtli. *' The ' Palace ' has four interior courts, the largest be- ing 70 by 80 feet in extent. These are surrounded by cor- ridors, and the architectural work facing them is richly decorated. Within the building were many rooms. From the north side of one of the smaller courts rises a high tower, or pagoda-like structure, 30 feet square at the base, which goes up far above the highest elevation of the build- ing, and seems to have been still higher when the whole structure was in perfect condition. The great rectangular mound used for the foundation was cased with hewn stone, the workmanship here, and everywhere else throughout the structure, being very superior. The piers around the courts are ' covered with figures in stucco, or plaster, which, where broken, reveals six or more coats or layers, each re- vealing traces of painting.' This indicates that the build- ing had been used so long before it was deserted that the plastering needed to be many times renewed. There is some evidence that painting was used as a means of decora- tion ; but that which most engages attention is the artistic management of the stone-work, and, above all, the beauti- fully executed sculptures for ornamentation. " Two other buildings at Palenque, marked by Mr. Stephens, in his plan of the ruins, as ' Casa No. 1 ' and * Casa No. 2,' . . . . are smaller, but in some respects still 40 GEXERAL INFORMATION^. more remarkable. The lirdt of these, 75 feet long by 25 wide, stands on the summit of a high truncated pyramid, and has solid walls on all sides save the north, where there are five doorways. Within are a corridor and three rooms. Between the doorways leading from the corridor to these rooms are great tablets, each 13 feet long and 8 feet high, . and all covered with elegantly-carved inscriptions. A simi- lar but smaller tablet, covered with an inscription, appears on the wall of the central room. " ' Casa No. 2 ' consists of a steep and lofty truncated pyramid, which stands on a terraced foundation, and has its level summit crowned with a building 50 feet long by 31 wide, which has three doorways at the south, and within a corridor and three rooms. This edifice, sometimes called 'La Cruz,' has, above the height required for the rooms, what is described as ' two stories of interlaced stucco-work, resembling a high, fanciful lattice.' Here, too, inscribed tablets appear on the walls ; but the inscriptions, which are abundant at Paleuque, are by no means confined to tab- lets. As to the ornamentation, the walls, piers, and cor- nices are covered by it. Everywhere the masterly work- manship and artistic skill of the old constructors compel admiration ; Mr. Stephens going so far as to say of sculj)- tured human figures found in fragments : ' In justness of proportion and symmetry they must have approached the Greek models. ' " It is probable that more buildings will be found at Pa- lenque when the ruins have been fully explored. Mr. Ste- phens, referring to the dense vegetation, says : " Without a guide, we might have gone within a hundred feet of the buildings without discovering one of them." On account of the great abundance of inscriptions at Palenque, which have not thus far been deciphered, these ruins are consid- ered to be very important by archaeologists. (For routes to Palenque, see pp. 150-15G.) It urns. ^^ MITLA. Baldwin, in Ancient America, pp. 117-122, describes these ruins as follows : ''The ruins called Mitla are in the Mexican State of Oaxaca, about twelve leagues east from the city of Oaxaca. They are situated in the upper part of a great valley, and surrounded by a waste, uncultivated region. At the time of the Spanish Conquest they were old and much worn by time and the elements, but a very large area was then cov- ered by remains of ancient buildings. At present only six decaying edifices and three ruined pyramids, which were very finely terraced, remain for examination, the other struct- ures being now reduced to the last stage of decay. 'Tour of the standing edifices are described by Dupaix as 'palaces,' and these, he says, 'were erected with lavish magnificence ; . . . they combine the solidity of the works of Egypt with the elegance of those of Greece.' And he adds: 'But what is most remarkable, interesting, and striking in these monuments, and which alone would be sufficient to give them the first rank among all known orders of architecture, is the execution of their mosaic re- lievos— very different from plain mosaic, and consequently requiring more ingenious combination, and greater art and labor. They are inlaid on the surface of the wall, and their duration is owing to the method of fixing the pre- pared stones into the stone surface, which made their union with it perfect.' . . . "The general character of the architecture and ma- sonry is much like that seen in the structures at Palenque, but the finish of the workmanship appears to have been more artistic and admirable. These ruins are remarkable among those of the country where they are found. All who have seen them speak much as Dupaix speaks of the perfection of the masonry, the admirable design and finish 4:2 GENERAL INFORMATION. of the work, and tlie beauty of tlie decorations. Their beauty, says M. Charnay, can be matched only by the monuments of Greece and Home in their best days. One fact presented by some of the edifices at Mitla has a cer- tain degree of historical significance. There appears to be evidence that they were occupied at some period by people less advanced in civilization tluin their builders. . . . " Two miles or more away from the great edifices here mentioned, toward the west, is the ' Castle of Mitla.' It was built on the summit of an isolated and precipitous hill of rock, which is accessible only on the east side. The whole leveled summit of this hill is inclosed by a solid wall of hewn stone, 21 feet thick and 18 feet high. This wall has salient and retiring angles, with curtains interposed. On the east side it is flanked by double walls. Within the inclosure are the remains of several small buildings. The field of these ruins was very large three hundred years ago. At that time it may have included this castle." Humboldt, in his Political Essay on New Spain, vol. ii, pp. 239, 240, has described these remains as follows : "The village of Mitla was formerly called Miguitlan, a word that means, in the Mexican language, a place of sad- ness. The Tzapotec Indians call it Leoha, which signifies tomb. . . . The palace, or rather the tombs of Mitla, form three edifices symmetrically placed in an extremely roman- tic-situation. The principal edifice is in the best preserva- tion, and is nearly 130 feet in length. A stair formed in a pit leads to a subterraneous apartment of 88 feet in length and 26 feet in breadth. This gloomy apartment is covered with the same grecques which ornament the exterior walls of the edifice. But what distinguishes the ruins of Mitla from all the other remains of Mexican architecture is six porphyry columns, which are placed in the midst of a vast hall, and support the ceiling. These columns, almost the only ones found in the new continent, bear strong marks ';!.' Artificial Fyramiil of Cholnla. of the infancy of the art. They have neither base nor cap- itals. . . . Their total height is 16^ feet, but their shaft is of one piece of amphibole porphyry. Broken-down frag- ments, for ages heaped together, conceal more than one third of the height of these columns. . . . The distribu- tion of the apartments in the interior of this singular edi- fice bears a striking analogy to what has been remarked in the monuments of UpiDcr Egypt drawn by M. Denon and the savans, who compose the institute of Cairo. M. de La- guna found in the ruins of Mitla curious paintings repre- senting warlike trophies and sacrifices. "... Jeffreys states that the buildings at Mitla were probably erected by either the Mixtec or Tzapotec Indians. — {Vide p. 169.) THE PYEAMIDS. The teocalUs may now be mentioned. Tbey are to be found princijDally at Oholula, San Juan Teotihuacan, and Papantla. They may be described in the following order : Gliolula. This town lies seven miles west of the city of Puebla. Its pyramid is by far the largest, oldest, and most impor- tant in Mexico. The original dimensions were as follows : Height, 177 feet ; horizontal width of the base, 1,423 feet ; and area, 45 acres. It is built of alternate strata of brick and clay, and the sides correspond to the direction of the me- ridians and parallels. At present three terraces can be dis- tinctly seen, and the outlines of two others may be traced. A winding road, which is paved with stone, leads up to the sum- mit. The latter is about 200 feet square. It affords a fine view of the valley of Puebla. A chapel has been erected by the Mexicans on the platform of this great mound. It is built of brick and stone, with a dome and two towers ; and the interior contains ornamental frescoes and decorations. It IS called San Tuariol de los Remedios. Some vegetation 44 GENERAL INFORMATION. is seen on the pyramid. It consists of the cactus, pitOy and a few jw/'n^ trees. Several writers have suggested that the founders of the mound at Cholula may have had some de- sign in building it near the lofty volcano of Popocatepetl, or 'Hhe smoking mountain." This primitive race may have been fire as "well as serpent "worshipers. Unfortunately the great temple of Cholula has been partially destroyed. A few years ago a cut was made in the western side of it for a railroad track ! — ( Vide p. 173.) San Juan Teotiliuacan. The teocalUs at this town rank next to Cholula in point of age. The word ''Teotiliuacan" means the habitation Rums. 45 of the gods. It is now a small village, though it was once a flourishing city, and the rival of Tula, the great Toltec capital. The two principal pyramids were dedicated to To- nafiuh, the Sun, and to Meztli, the Moon.* The former is the larger, its height being 180 feet, and the length of the base 682 feet. Its platform is to-day about 75 feet square, and the middle point is marked by a modern cylindrical monument of stone, about 5 feet high and 6 feet in diameter. The summit of this pyramid is said to have been crowned with a temple, in which was a gigantic statue of its presid- ing deity, the Sun, made of one entire block of stone, and having a breastplate of gold and silver. Three terraces are now visible on this larger mound. It is constructed of blocks of basalt and trachyte rock. About half a mile to the northward of the pyramid of the Sun is that dedicated to the Moon. The observer may distinguish two terraces on the latter. The summit is about 20 by 40 feet. Traces of an ancient tomb were formerly visible on it. A cross, standing on a pedestal about 12 feet high, has been erected recently f at the center of the plat- form. It is reached by a winding pathway on the south side. The building materials of this mound resemble those of the larger one. M. Charnay, a recent explorer, is said to have found an idol buried in the interior. The same traveler made a cut into this pyramid to settle the question wiiether the teocalUs were hollow. J He dug a gallery. half way through, and found the interior to be solid. We sub- mit, however, that this experiment has not solved the prob- lem in general. A great number of smaller pyramids are seen around the two principal ones. Few exceed twenty-five feet in height. According to tradition, they were dedicated to the stars, and served as sepulchres for the illustrious men of the * Vide Prcscoit, vol. ii, p. 388. f On Fcbruaiy 11, 1881. J According to tradition these pyramids were hollow. 46 GENERAL INFORMATION: uation. The plain on which they are built was called Micoatl, or "Path of the Dead." Arrow-heads and frag- ments of blades of itztli or obsidian are still abundant at these mounds. They attest the warlike character of the aborigines. (TWc j). 174.) Papantla. This village lies in the State of Vera Cruz, about fifty miles north of Jalapa. ( Vide p. 155.) The pyramid is situ- ated in a dense forest about two leagues from Papantla. i It was unknown to the first conquerors, as the Indians for centuries concealed this monument from them. It possesses great antiquity, and was only discovered acci- dentally by some hunters in 1780. This pyramid was not built of bricks or clay mixed with whinstones, like those already described, but was made of immense stones of porphyry, in the seams of which mortar is distin- guishable. Many of these stones are covered with hiero- glyphics. Among other figures are carvings of serpents and crocodiles. This edifice is remarkable, not so miTch for its size, as for its symmetry, the jDolish of the stones, and the great regularity of their cut. The base of the pyramid is an exact square, each side being 82 feet long. The perpendicular height is about 60 feet. Like all Mexi- can tcocalUs, this mound is composed of several stages. A huge stairway of fifty-seven steps leads to the platform or top of the i^yi-amid, where the human victims were sacri- ficed. (The manner of sacrifice is described on ]). 186.) Humboldt, in his great work on New Spain, refers to the analogy of the brick monuments of Anahuac to the temple of Belus at Babylon, and to the pyramids near Sak- hara in Egypt. On page 195 of vol. ii he says : " There are in Mexico pyramids of several stages, in the forests of Papantla, at a small elevation above the level of the sea, and in the plains of Cholula and Teotihuacan, at elevations ^ EUINS. 47- surpassing those of our passes in the A1]ds. "We are aston- ished to see in regions most remote from one another, and under climates of the greatest diversity, man following the same model in his edifices, in his ornaments, in his habits, and eyen in the form of his political institutions." The same author gives the following comparative table of the great pyramids of the world. It will be seen that in the mound of Cholula the length of the base to the per- pendicular height is as 8 to 1, while in that of Ghizeh this proportion is nearly 8 to 5 : Stone Pyramids. French feet.* Cheops. Cephren. Mycerinus. Seight [iCngth of base 448 728 398 665 162 280 Brick Pyramids. French feet. Height Length of base. Of five stages in Egypt, near Sakhara. 150 210 Of four stages in Mexico. Teotihuacan. 1*71 645 Cholula. 172 1,355 There are also teocallis at Misantla, Tusapan, Mapilca, md Casones in the northern part of the State of Vera Cruz. I These pyramids are scattered over Central and Eastern Mexico. Several writers on archaeology believe that they y^^ere built by the Toltecs, who are supposed to have been ;he authors of the mounds in Ohio. NOKTHERN" MEXICO. Ancient remains are rare north, as well as west, of the ^alley of Mexico. Toltec ruins are found at Tula, which * A French foot equals 1 -066 English feet. 48 GENERA L INFORM A TION. lies about fifty miles north of the capital. The ruins on the northern part of the table-land consist of communal dwellings, similar to those of the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico. They were built of several stories, one being ranged above the other. There were no doors on the first floor, and the upper stories were reached by means of lad- ders. The roofs were commonly flat. These edifices were sometimes built of stone, but wood and adobe, or sun-dried brick, have been more frequently used. Toltec Palace. This class of ruins is common in the State of Chihuahua, and also in the Territories of Arizona and New Mexico. The reports of the Pacific Eailroad surveys describe many of these ancient towns. Some of them are still inhabited, as Taos, Zuni, and Moqui. If the traveler approaches Mexico by either of the railroads in Colorado or Arizona, he will pass within a few miles of some of the *' Pueblo" dwellings. The Indians of the New Mexican pueblos re- semble those of Mexico in stature, physiognomy, and HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS. 49 habits. Apparently they are the same race of people, and it is not improbable, that their ancestors built some of the magnificent edifices that remain in the southern part of the country. Tourists, who are not specially interested in Mexican archaeology, are recommended to confine themselves to visiting the ruins of Mitla, Cholula, and San Juan Teoti- huacan. The former will soon be within twenty miles of a line of railway, and the other places are within an hour's walk of it. For additional information on the ancient remains of Mexico, consult the following hooks : Humboldt, Political Essay on New Spain. Kingshorough, Mexican Antiquities. Dupaix, Antiquites mexicaines. Prescott, Conquest of Mexico. Baldwin, Ancient America. Stephens, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas^ and Yucatan. Also the works of Oatherwood, Waldeck, Del Rio, Brasseur de Bourbourg, and Charnay. VI. Hotels and Restaurants. Most of the hotels in Mexico are kept on the European plan ; but those of Monterey and other towns near the northern frontier are conducted according to the American system. Two-storied buildings are generally used for hotel purposes ; and in recent years a few convents have been altered for this kind of business. The inns are often called after ex-j)residents or generals in the army. Many of them bear the name of the illustrious patriot Hidalgo. In the large cities men are commonly employed to take 50 GENERAL INFORMATION. care of bed-rooms, while in the smaller towns one meets with chambermaids. Hotels are not so abundant in Mexico as in the United States, and the accommodations of the former are much inferior to those of the latter. The natives are not much given to- traveling, owing to the difficulty and expense of making long journeys. When visiting a strange town they usually stay at the house of a friend. There are cities of 15,000 inhabitants, remote from the regular lines of travel, where no inn is to be found. The General Diligence Com- pany controls a great many taverns throughout the central portions of the country. Mexican hotels are of two classes — those for tourists, and those for both persons and live-stock, such as horses or horned cattle. The latter are called me- sones and posadas. Bath-rooms are rarely found in hotels. There are, how- ever, excellent bath-houses in the principal cities, which are often within two or three minutes' walk of the princi- pal hotels.* English is rarely spoken at the inns, but French is gen- erally known at the larger hotels and restaurants. Many of the proprietors are Sj^aniards or Frenchmen ; and there is a great opening for Americans in this branch of business.- The modern conveniences, such as hot-air furnaces, water-pipes and set bowls, electric bells, and gas, are al- most unknown. It is said that there is not a single fire- place in any building in Mexico, f The natives believe that the artificial heating of rooms m the rarefied air of the table-land is prejudicial to health. Public parlors are very rarely found in the hotels. The charge at first-class houses throughout the country is from $2 to 12.50 per day. In the capital the rates are a * The finest bathing establishments in Mexico are in San Luis Potosi, Orizaba, and Puebla. Those of the national capital are not first class, f The author did not sec nor hear of any. 1 HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS. 51 little higher. The best hotels and restaurants, generally named in the order of their merit, are given in Part Second. ' In Mexico City a good table dliote dinner can be had in the restaurants for II. Elsewhere the usual price for dinner is four reales, or fifty cents ; and in the villages the cost is as low as two reales for a meal. It is the custom to give waiters and servants a fee. A half i^eal {medio) is sufficient. A cup of coffee or chocolate, with bread, is com- monly served for one real. A glass of spirits, wine, or beer, costs the same sum. The Mexicans use the word "fonda'' as synonymous with restaurant, and " fondita^' is similar to a cafe, the latter term being frequently employed. In the " provincial " fondas, it is customary to salute persons at the table, when entering or leaving the room, whether acquainted or not. In the rural districts and in the mining towns, goat's milk is often used at the taverns. Fresh vegetables, excepting potatoes, are rarely served at the restaurants. Oranges and bananas are generally the only kinds of fruit to be met with, although the country affords many varieties. Tea is not usually taken ; and pies, tarts, cakes, and puddings, are almost unknown at the ho- tels and cafes. Dessert consists, as a rule, of dulce, which means something sweet, such as jams^ preserved fruit, etc The natives usually eat tortillas, or corn-cakes, ancL frijoles, or brown beans. The former are found only in the country and small towns, but the latter are served at all hotels and restaurants. A great deal of pepper and grease is used in Mexican cookery. Even boiled rice is saturated with melted lard. Beef and mutton, as well as poultry, are generally to be had at breakfast and dinner in the fondas throughout the Eepublic. The sugar used comes in loaves directly from the mills, and is broken up by hand into small pieces. A small quantity of refined granulated sugar is imported. 52 GENERAL INFORMATION. 1 The following list* of the most common dishes may be of service to the traveler : Caldo, broth ; soim, boiled rice. Bacalao, codfish ; bagre, a kind of fish. Came, beef ; carnero, mutton. Ternera, veal. Juajalote, turkey. Polio, chicken. Chile C071 came, boiled beef, spiced. Blanquillos, or Jmevos, eggs. Huevos tihios, soft-boiled eggs. Huevos duros, hard-boiled eggs. Huevos fritos por agua, poached eggs. Huevos fr'itos, fried eggs. Tortilla de huevos, omelette. Gliile relleno is a fried green-pepper, stuffed with mince-meat and coated with eggs. Many kinds of bread are made in Mexico, the principal of which are : Pan de agua, " water " bread. Pan de aziicar, "sugar" bread. Pan de dulce, " sweet " bread. Pan de huevos, " egg " bread. Pa?i de leche, "milk" bread. Pan de manteca, "lard " bread. VII. Passport At present no passport is necessary for traveling in Mexico. * This list is not Intended to supplement the vocabulary at end of Part Second. CUSTOM-HOUSES.— COMMERCE. 53 VIII. Custom-Houses. According to the laws of Mexico, the examination of baggage will be made "liberally and with prudence and moderation." In general the tourist will be treated politely by the customs officers. As regards wearing-apparel and jewelry for personal use, the amount of that which will not be subject to duty is left entirely to the discretion of the Government officials, taking into consideration, however, the character and social position of the traveler. At present the following "extra " articles are admitted free of duty : Two watches with their chains . One hundred cigars. Forty small boxes of cigarettes. Half kilogramme of snuff. Half kilogramme of smoking tobacco. One pair of pistols with accessory and with two hundred charges. A rifle, a gun or fowling-piece, with accessory and with two hundred charges. One pair of musical instruments, excepting piano-fortes and organs. Other objects not included in the foregoing list are, of course, subject to the duties fixed by the Mexican tariff. (See chapter on Duties.) IX. Commerce. The chief exports of Mexico are : Gold, silver, cop- per ore, coffee, cochineal, vanilla, indigo, hides, hemp, 54 GENERAL INFORMATION. "m mahogany and other woods. The staple imports are cot- ton, linen, and woolen manufactures, wrought iron, and ma- chinery. In 1875-'76 the imports amounted in value to $28,485,- 000, and the exports to 125,435,000, of which $15,000,000 was silver. The foreign commerce in 1879-'80 was as follows : To the United States $13,416,600 To Great Britain 11,037,594 To France 5,194,741 To Germany 1,498,734 To Spain 1,009,368 To South America 506,488 $32,663,525 Of this sum the main exports were as follows : Silver $19,823,397 Gold 1,180,815 Copper 48,692 Minerals 483,587 Building woods 1,597,599 Other merchandise 9,529,435 $32,663,525 The following table shows the trade of the United States with Mexico for the three fiscal years ending June 30, 1879, 1880, and 1881 : 1879. 1880. 1881. Exports . Imports $6,761,284 14,047,819 $7,869,864 16,325,417 $11,172,738 1^,454,126 Total $20,809,103 $24,195,281 $28,626,864 It will be seen that this table shows an increase of trade of $7,817,761 in two years. COMMERCE. 55 Smuggling is practiced extensively along the northern frontier of Mexico. Competent judges estimate that the annual loss to the Government from this source amounts to 13,000,000. It is said that even some of the highest officials are implicated in schemes for smuggling. According to the Official Journal, the total value of exports for the fiscal year of 1883-'83 was $41,807,595, of which about $16,500,000 were sent to the United States, and $17,000,000 to England. One half of the exports were shijjped from Vera Cruz. The amount of sugar and tobacco exported was only $617,000 in value. MOVEMEN'TS OF VESSELS IIST MEXICAN PORTS IN 1879-'80.* Flag^. No. of vessels. Mexican 2,227 United States 332 English 162 French 115 German 112 Spanish 64 Norwegian 48 Danish 33 Dutch 12 Other flags 26 Total 3,131 The total tonnage of vessels entered can be estimated at 1,000,000. The Mexican merchant marine consists of 421 vessels engaged in foreign trade, and 847 barks employed in coasting. A Mexican line of steamers to England and Spain has just been established. (For description, see chap- ter on Traveling. ) * Translated from the Almanack de Gotha. 56 GENERAL INFORMATION. X. Army and Navy. Army. — Estimated yearly cost of maintenance, $8,000,1 000. The personnel of the army is as follows Infautry, 20 battalions Cavalry, 14 regiments Artillery, 6 brigades and 5 batteries Coast-guard Rurales — i. c, mounted patrols . . . . Invalids Total Officers. Men. Total, 740 518 180 22 150 19 1,629 12,200 4,850 1,645 11 1,692 280 20,738 12,940 i 5,368 ' 1,825 ; 93 1,842 j 2991 22,367 ! Each State has also militia of its own, which takes the] place of a police force to a considerable extent. All the prison-doors are guarded by soldiers, although the keeper^ are civilians. The soldiers are armed with Remington rifles and car- bines ; and the sabres used are chiefly of American manu- facture. The dress-uniform is of a dark blue. Several of the officers of the Mexican army are reformed brigands. In some States, where powerful bands of ban- ditti defied the authorities for years, the Government has finally dispersed them by giving the leader a military com- mission, and then sending him to fight against his old comrades. A large number of the officers who were in the army before 1876 are now on the retired list, with pay. They retain their rank, without power. The present (Liberal) Government deems this policy advisable. It may be remarked that Don Agustin Iturbide, the DUTIES. 57 grandson of the Emperor Iturbide, and adopted heir of Maximilian, holds a commission in the republican army. He studied at Tacubaya, the seat of the National Military Academy. Navy. — The navy consists of four gunboats. XI. Duties. An" elaborate description of the Mexican tariS would be out of place in this guide-book. Suffice it to say, that there is an import duty on almost everything, except agricultural and scientific instruments and books. Up to November 1, 1883, machinery was admitted free. It now bears a duty of fifty cents per hundred kilogrammes (320 pounds). Since November 1, 1881, there has been an ad- ditional "package " duty on merchandise imported into the Republic. Nearly all articles are taxed heavily, especially carriages, buggies, and wagons. The traveler, in entering the country by his own carriage (either via the Rio Grande or otherwise), is obliged to give a bond to secure the amount of duties on the vehicle, in case he intends to return to the United States. If the bond is not filed, the regular import duty must be paid. It may be remarked that the Government pays the sub- sidies to the various railroads out of the customs duties. An amount varying from four to six per cent of the cus- toms receipts is pledged, and revenue-bonds are issued bearing no interest (see chapter on railroads). At present negotiations for a reciprocity treaty are pending between the United States of America and Mexico. It is said that an extensive revision of the Mexican tariff is about to be made, by which the duties will be considerably reduced. 58 GENERAL INFORMATION. XII. Taxes. In ancient Mexico the public tax was often paid in agricultural produce. The taxes are now levied both by the National and State Governments. There are also spe- cial taxes for railways and other purposes. Every State has its own tax levy, which varies from year to year. The Federal tax is usually one quarter of the tax paid to the State. It is oftentimes very difficult to collect the former, as the Kepublic can not sue the State Government for any deficiency that may exist. A Federal treasurer, called the jefe de hacienda, resides in each of the several States, to gather the taxes due the General Government. Taxation is very heavy throughout the country, and especially in the districts adjoining the route of the Americau railroads. I XIII. Finance.* (in Dollars.) Receipts.— Budget, 1882-83. Custom-houses 15,000,000 Custom-liouse of Mexico and excise 2,000,000 Stamps 4,000,000 Direct tax 900,000 Mint 690,000 Eeceipts from former fund for public education 60,000 Post-offices and telegraphs 650,000 Lotteries 800,000 Other receipts 3,000,000 Total 27,100,000 Receipts from the several States 7,500,000 Grand total 34,600,000 * Translated from the Almanack de Gotha. PUBLIC DEBT. 59 ( Expenditures. Legislative power 1,071,712 Executive power 48,832 Supreme Court 389,554 Foreign affairs 336,280 Interior 3,235,118 Justice and public education 1,215,473 Public works (Fomento) 7,551,683 Treasury 4,648,377 War and navy 8,514,478 Total 27,011,507 Expenditures of the several States 7,500,000 Grand total 34,511,507 XIV. Public Debt. 1. Foreign debts : English debt of Oct. 14, 1850 $89,252,360 English convention of Dec. 4, 1851 . 5,900,025 Spanish convention of Dec. 6, 1853. 1,231,775 Spanish convention of Nov. 12, 1853 5,553,287 Indebtedness to the United States ofJuly4, 1868 2,775,123 $104,712,570 2. Internal debt 40,241,215 Total* $144,953,785 The Mexican Government does not recognize the debts as stated by the English and Spanish conventions. All the foreign debts, except that due the United States, are about to be consolidated, and bonds bearing three per cent in- terest, to be receivable for Government lands, adjudicated * Translated from the Almanack de Ootha. fiO GENERAL INFORMATION. property, and letters patent, will be issued by the Execu- tive to pay off the indebtedness. The details of the set- tlement involving the amount recognized are left entirely to the Executive. The sum of $296,066.54 is annually paid out of the national treasury to the United States, on account of the debt of the convention of July 4, 1868. In 1885 Mexico paid the ninth installment of the debt due the United States. The national bugbear is the English debt {la deuda Liglesa). In September, 1884, Mr. Edward Noetzlin, a Mexican agent, made an agreement with the British bond- holders for a conversion of the old debt by the issue of new bonds to the amount of $86,000,000. This agi'eement con- tained many provisions objectionable to Mexico, and, for reasons which we have not space to discuss here, it was not ratified at the ensuing session of Congress. There is, however, no doubt that this debt will eventually be paid. XV. Money— Coins, Ik the Aztec empire, current money consisted of bits of tin, bags of cocoa with a specified number of grains, and quills filled with gold-dust.* These commodities were used by measure and number, rather than by weight. (See Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 145, and vol. ii, p. 140.) The Spaniards introduced gold and silver coins soon after their arrival in the country. A few of these old coins * Gold-dust has been employed as currency on the Pacific coast of the United States for many years. This kind of money was evidently suggested to the Spaniards and Americans by the Aztecs. MONEY— COINS. 61 may be found at the shops of the silversmiths, or platerias, at the present day. The escutcheon of Mexico, i. e., a royal eagle, with ex- panded wings, standing on a cactus, holding a serpent in its beak, is stamped on one side of all the silver coins, and a liberty-cap and rising sun are found on the reverse. Dur- ing the French invasion the bust of Maximilian was substi- tuted for the cap of liberty. Mexico has followed the example of Spain in adopt- ing the decimal system of coinage, of which the peso is the basis. The current coins are as follows : SILVEE. OuQ peso,"^ or dollar, containing 8 reales, or 100 cents. Four reales, or one toston, 50 cents. Two reales, or one peseta, 35 cents. One real, 12^ cents. One medio, %\ cents. COPPER. One cuartilla, 3 cents. One tlaco, 1^ cent. NICKEL. Coins of five and two cents, and of one cent, have re- cently been issued for general circulation. The standard gold coin is the onza, which equals $16 ; and there are $10 and $5 gold pieces. They do not circu- late, however, so that the traveler will have nothing to do with them. Paper currency has lately been issued by the Mexican * One peso is worth from 85 to 87 cents in United States money, so that a cent is only equivalent to about 8i mills. 62 GENERAL INFORMATION. National Bank and the Bank of London and Mexico. They will cash letters of credit on British and American bankers. The Monte cle Piedad, a governmental corporation, for- merly issued bank-bills, but in 1885 this institution failed. Its bills have since been redeemed and withdrawn from cir- culation, and now (1891) negotiations to transfer its fran- chise to some other bank are in i^rogress. The Interna- tional and Mortgage Bank of Mexico, a new institution, will discount drafts drawn on Mexico against shipments of merchandise and will issue travelers' credits or mercantile credits, available throughout the Eepublic. Several State banks issue bills which circulate at par only in those States. Travelers may also provide themselves with drafts on the various diligence offices in the interior of the country, by depositing the amount in advance at one of the princi- cipal offices. In case of robbery by brigands, the diligence company will rejiay the value of the draft, if it be taken from the person of the tourist, upon furnishing satisfactory evidence to one of the agents. Bankers will give a higher rate of premium on drafts on New York than can be had in exchanging money. In Vera Cruz, United States money may be exchanged for Mexican currency at 113 to 114 cents on the dollar ; and in Monterey and near the American frontier, the rate is as high as 115 cents.* In the City of Mexico the banking hours are from 10 A. M. to 4 p. M., and in other cities from 9 to 12 A. m., and from 2 to 4 p. m. Up to the year 1883 the Mexican Government has ex- acted an export duty of 5 per cent on coin. It is now re- mitted. For the fiscal year ending June 30, 1882, the coin and bullion exported amounted to $0,631,938. * Mexican coin can be purchased on better terms the farther the seller is from the country. POST-OFFICE AND LETTERS. 63 XVL Mints. Theke were formerly fourteen mints in the country, the oldest of which is that of the City of Mexico. Visitors are admitted to these institutions from 8 to 12 a. m., and from 1 to 4 p. m. It is better to go in the morning, as the workmen are more commonly employed during this time. English machinery is generally used at the mints. The following table, taken from Senor Busto's great work, gives the coinage of the mints for the fiscal year of 1878 to 1879 : Mints. Gold.- 3,830 00 Mexico j$304,500 00 Zacatecas 50,111 00 Guanajualo j 212,158 00 San Luis PotosI . . | Guadalajara. . . Chihuahua .... Culiacan Durango Alamos Hci'mosillo. . . . Oaxaca 49,230 00 23,935 00 13,700 00 1,360 00 3,700 00 Silver. Copper. 1,500 00 15,116,000 00 $14,800 00 4,597,939 50 3,740,403 75 2,519,110 00 1,413,161 00 806,025 00 891,951 00 854,882 50 756,598 15 555,650 00 153,610 00 Total. $5,435,300 00 4,648,050 50 3,052,661 75 2,519,110 00 1,418,491 00 806,025 00 941,181 00 878,817 50 770,298 15 557,010 00 157,310 00 $662,524 00 $21,405,330 90 $16,300 00 $22,084,154 90 XVII. Post-OflBlce and Letters. Befoke the Conquest letters were carried throughout the realm by swift - footed couriers. The distance from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico, about 300 miles, was traversed in twenty-four hours. 64 GENERAL INFORMATION. Eeports and messages "were generally transmitted in picture-writing. It was in this manner that Montezuma learned of the arrival of Cortes and his warriors. The various lines of steamers now carry the mail along the coast, and the railways, diligences, and special couriers, transport it into the interior. In 1881 the number of post-offices in the Eepublic was 873, and the proceeds from the sale of stamps amounted to $500,000 annually. In addressing letters, 8r., Don, stand for "Mr.," and Sefiora is used as the title for "Mrs." Strangers should omit such affixes as " esquire," in directing letters, on ac- count of the difficulty the Mexican clerks have in decipher- ing foreign names. On the arrival of the mail at the post-office, the names on the letters are written on lists, and placed on bulletin- boards near the door. There are separate lists for letters coming from foreign countries, from the interior, and from the city or county in which the post-office is situ- ated. Sometimes a local letter is put on the foreign list by mistake. It will be advisable, therefore, for the stranger to look at all the bulletins. If the traveler sees his name on the list, he should write it down Just as it appears on the board, and hand it to the clerk at the window. Post-offices are generally open from 8 to 12 A. M., and from 3 to 9 p. m., throughout the country. In the City of Mexico the office hours are from 9 A. m. to 1 p. m., and from 3 to 5 p. m. Tourists are recommended to go to the post-office in person, in depositing or receiving their letters, in order to guard against mistakes. Public letter-writers do a considerable business on the plazas of all the principal cities. Many of the natives can not write. In times of revolutions the post-office is of POST-OFFICE AKly LETTERS. 65 little use, as the insurgents examine, and often confiscate, the correspondence. At present, the rates for postage in the interior of Mexico are so high that letter-writing is rather expen- sive. The foreign are much lower than the domestic rates. Stamp -tariff . — For single letters to points in the inte- rior of the country, not exceeding 16 leagues, the rate is 10 cents for each quarter of an ounce ; 25 cents for half an ounce ; 35 cents for three-quarters of an ounce ; 50 cents for each ounce. Single letters to points exceeding 16 leagues, 25 cents* for each quarter of an ounce ; 35 cents for half an ounce ; 50 cents for three quarters of an ounce ; and 60 cents for each ounce. Printed matter in unsealed wrappers, 5 cents a pound, or $1.25 for a package weighing one arroba (25 pounds). Unsealed business circulars, 5 cents each, or $4 a hun- dred. Printed or engraved cards on pasteboard or vellum, 75 cents a pound. For Foreign Letters. — Each half ounce (15 grammes), 2 cents ; postal-cards, 2 cents each. Printed matter of all kinds : 1 cent for 50 grammes or less. 2 cents for 100 grammes. 3 cents for 150 grammes. 4 cents for 200 grammes and up to 2 kilogrammes. I Each State in the Eepublic has its own stamps, with [particular numbers marked on them. No stamps are al- lowed to be taken outside of the post-oflSce, except in the ,city of Vera Cruz. The rules of the department require that letters must be delivered at the stamp-window, f where * After January 1, 1884, inland postage will be 10 cents for each quarter of an ounce. f This regulation is of great annoyance to the tourist. 66 GENERAL INFORMATION. the amount of postage should be paid. The Government officials attach the stamps to the envelopes. In the national capital there are various shojos, in the business part of the city, at which letters will be received and forwarded. XVIII, Telegraphs. There are several lines of telegraph in operation through- out the Eepublic. The Federal Government has its wires all over the country, and the States of Zacatecas, Hidalgo, Morelos, and Michoacan, also own telegraph-lines. The Mexican Railway Company, the Mexican National Eail- way Company, the Mexican Central Railroad Company, and the Morelos Railway Company, have erected lines of telegraph. It may be remarked that, in the case of the Mexi- can National Railway Company, the General Govern- ment reserves the right to jDut up two wires on its poles. There are private lines in the States of Jalisco and Vera Cruz. That of the latter State extends from the capital to the city of Vera Cruz, and is called the Commercial Tele- graph Line. A New York corporation, entitled the Mexi- can Telegraph Company, has established itself in the country ; and , there are submarine cables running from fr^iPxico to the United States, Central America, and South iverica. persoAll the railway stations contain telegraph offices, and gua-e hours of business are in general from 8 a. m. to 8 p. m. -''he principal offices of the lines belonging to the National plaz^. State Governments are in the business part of tlio not o^r cities. English is rarely spoken by the operators ; CENSUS. 67 and the rates for messages are much higher tlian in the United States. On the 1st of June, 1885, the total number of telegraph lines in operation amounted to 13,120 miles. The Mexican Central and Mexican National Eailroad Companies are erecting telegraph-poles as fast as each mile of track is completed. In some cases the wires are extended beyond the temporary terminus. XIX. Census. No complete census has ever been taken of the Mexican Eepublic. The figures given in the public documents arc generally estimates rather than correct enumerations of the inhabitants. At the time of Humboldt's visit (in 1803), the total poi^ulation was 5,840,000. In 1838, it was 7,044,140 ; in 1856, 7,859,564 ; in 1872, 9,097,056 ; in 1874, 9,343,470 ; in 1878, 9,384,193 ; in 1879, 9,577,279 ; in 1882, 10,000,000.* In 1803, the number of inhabitants in the three principal cities was in Mexico (city), 135,000; Puebla, 67,800; Gua- dalajara, 19,500. j In 1879, Mexico had a population of 241,110 ; Gruada- lajara, 78,600 ; Puebla, 64,588. The following table, copied from Senor Busto's great Vork, gives the population of the several States, their area and the number of inhabitants to the square kilo- metre ; also the population of the capitals of the States, in 1879 : * This list is taken from Busto's Edadlstica de la Republica llexi- cana. 68 GENERAL IiVFORMATIOK 1. Aguascalicntes. 2. Lower Calit'ornia(Tcr.) 8. Campeche 4. Coalmila de Zara^oza 5. Oolima 6. Chiapas 7. Chihuahua 8. Federal District 9. Durango 10. Guanajuato 11. Guerrero 12. Hidalgo 13. Jalisco 14. Mexico 15. Michuaean de Ocampo 16. Morelos IT. Nuevo-Leon IS. Oaxaca 19. Puebla 20. Queretaro de Arteaga 21. San Luis Potosi 22. Sinaloa 23. Sonora 24. Tabasco 25. Tamanlipas 26. Tlaxcala 27. Vera Cruz 28. Yucatan 29. Zacatecas ll J .S B &• g3 •< 5 5.776 140,430 152,847 23,195 67,589 86,299 152.517 104,131 7,136 65,827 ' 43,930 219,735 272,716 180,758 231 354,340 110,463 190,846 20,276 788.202 6S,o63 308,716 21,693 4:34,096 114.896 994,900 25.245 696,088 55,693 648,857 4.536 154,946 38,156 194,861 70,838 718,194 31,120 704,872 8,300 179,915 71,210 506,799 69,211 167,093 209,694 139,140 32.935 93,387 75.191 144,747 3.898 133,498 71,116 504,970 84.585 285.384 68,596 413,603 1,958,912 9,577,279 l!s lis > ^ 24-80 015 1-28 0-68 9-22 500 0-66 1,533-94 1-73 88-87 4-50 20-01 8-66 27-57 11-65 84-16 511 10-14 22'63 21 -fS 7-12 2-41 0-66 2-84 1-92 84-25 7-10 3-37 6-03 4-89 Capitals of the Statu] Aguascalienten I^a Paz Campeche Saltilio Colima San Cristobal las Casas Chihuahua Mexico, cap. of the Rep. . . Durango Guanajuato Chilpancingo de los Bravos. Pachuca de Guerrero Guadalajara Toluca Morelia Cuernavaca Monterey Oaxaca de Juarez Puebla de Zaragoza Queretaro San Luis Potosi Culiacan Ures San Juan Bautista Ciudad Victoria Tlaxcala Jalapa Merida Zacatecas Si 81,872 2.396 15,190 11,340 23,57-i 8,6(HI 12,116 241,110 27,119 56,1 12 3,800 12,500 78,600 12,800 20,400 16,320 15,800 26,228 64,588 27,560 34,800 7.873 9,700 6,800 7,800 4,800 12,4110 32,000 82,000 864,101 XX. Population. The population of Mexico is divided into four great castes, as follows : Whites (individuals born in Europe, Spanish Creoles born in America) ; Indians ; negroes ; a mixed race (mesti- zos from whites and Indians, mulattoes from whites and negroes, zambos from Indians and negroes). The Indians outnumber the other inhabitants. They are variously estimated at from one half to three quarters of the entire population. They are a long-lived race, small ARCHITECTURE. 69 in stature, but possessing great endurance. Thus far the Indians have not been alfected by foreign influence. It is very difl&cult to give a correct estimate of the number of foreigners in the country. We are disposed to believe that it does not exceed 100,000. The foreign population con- sists chiefly of French, Spaniards, Americans, Germans, Italians, and English. They live mostly in the cities of Mexico, "Vera Cruz, Puebla, Chihuahua, Guanajuato, Mon- terey, and Guaymas. The Mexicans reside principally in cities and towns. In the rural districts the traveler will find some haciendas, or farm-houses, at a distance from any settlement, but isolated dwellings are rarely met with. Except along the trunk-lines of railroad, one can ride fif- teen or twenty miles in many parts of the Republic with- seeing a house. XXL Architecture. The architecture of the ruined palaces and temples of Mexico is described in the chapter on ruins. It may be said, however, that the former resemble the buildings of the ancient Greeks and Eomans in ornamentation, and the latter are not unlike the pyramids of EgyjDt in external ap- pearance. The prevailing style of modern architecture through- out the Eepublic is the Spanish renaissance. Almost every cathedral and church in the country are built in this fash- ion. The faQades of the churches often contain beau- tiful stone carvings of figures of the saints, and also arabesque work. Mexico, Puebla, Morelia, and Guadala- jara, contain cathedrals that compare favorably with those of any other cities in the world. The plans of most of the Mexican churches were drawn in Spain. The build- ings used for secular purposes, especially those belonging ARCHITECTURE. Yl to the Government, are imposing and commodious. The largest edifice in Mexico is the national palace at the capi- tal. It has two high stories and a frontage of 675 feet. Most of the houses have one story, and are provided with a iKitio, or courtyard, in which flowers and fruit-trees are planted. The roofs are generally covered with tiles, of "which red is the prevailing color. In the principal cities a second story is added ; but in the capital, and in the min- ing towns of Guanajuato and Zacatecas, where land is quite valuable, the buildings contain three, and often four (in- cluding the entresol), floors. While the larger edifices are constructed of igneous rocks, such as porous amygdaloid, trachyte, and porphyry, the dwelling-houses are usually made of brick and stuccoed. The roofs of the former are flat, and commonly furnished with a low wall, whereas those of the latter slant from the ridge-piece and are provided "with eaves. In some cities the eaves are of sufficient size to afford protection to the pedestrian from the sun and rain. As a rule, all buildings in Mexico are erected in the most substantial manner. The walls are of great thick- ness, and cellars are rarely seen. The windows are gen- erally covered with railings of Biscay iron, reminding the traveler of Spain. Balconies are added to those above the ground-floor. Many private residences of the better class have poi'te-cocheres, and a fountain in the paved court- yards. The dry climate is favorable to the endurance of the edifices, and many houses built soon after the Conquest are still in a fair state of preservation. In the villages on the table-land, the most common building material is adobe, or sun-dried brick. The peasants living in the tierra caliente and tierra templada, commonly use sugar-cane stalks and palm-leaves in making their huts. Tourists are advised to spend much of their time in 72 GENERAL IXFOTiMATIOy. visiting the churches. The ctithedrals are generally pro- vided with two towers, from Avhich a fine view of the city may be obtained. These religions edifices are usually .built in the form of a Latin cross, and the . interior is seldom frescoed. The traveler soon gi-ows WTary of the white plastered walls, on which indifferent paintings are frequently hung. The cathedral of Puebla has a stone floor, while that of Mexico is of wood, which seems out of place in comparison with the solid magnificence of the building. The objects of interest in a Spanish church are : the high altar, the stalls in the choir, the lateral chajiels, and the relics andj vestments in the sacristy. The following terms applied to different portions of, churches will be found useful : Fachadas, fa9ades ; lotija, a long platform, which oftei surrounds the churches exteriorly, and which is ascendec by steps or grees, escalinata or gradas. The font is pila hautisinal. Pila de agua hendita is the stonj), or font, containin| holy water ; coro, is the choir ; trascoro, the back to it often profusely decorated ; the respaldos del coro are thi lateral sides of it. The stalls are sillas, forming silUria alta, or haja, the case may be. The choristers' desks are called atriles ; the lecternj facistol, and the transept, ci'ucero. Over it often rises dome or lantern, which is called cimborio, and, from it shape, media naranja. The purclose, or railings, rejas, are often beautiful!] executed, and made of silver. The ahside contains a capilla mayor, with the hi^ altar, altar mayor ; the r credos, or screen rising from it, i^ named the retahlo. The latter are commonly exquisitelj gilded. The right side of the altar — i. e., the right of tl PAINTIKQ. T3 celebrant, looking from the altar — is called lado del evan- gelio ; the left is lado de la epistola. The chapter is el cdbildo. The sagrario is a special chapel, where the Holy of Holies is often placed, de manifiesto, or displayed. The vestry is la sacristia ; the sexton, sacristan. The relics, vestments, plate, etc., are kept in what is called el relicario. Monaguillos are the vestry boys. Misa mayor is high mass. The belfry is la torre or el campanario. XXII. Painting. The art of painting was rudely known among the Az- tecs, whose means of conveying information was called picture-writing. Unfortunately for learning as well as for art,Zumarraga, the first bishop of Mexico, ordered all Aztec paintings and manuscripts to be committed to the flames. There are, however, a few specimens of these an- tique pictures in the museum at the national capital. There are but two academies of fine arts in the Republic, one at the City of Mexico, and one at Guadalajara. Art . schools are connected with each, and another has been es- tablished at Puebla. The academy of San Carlos, at the capital, contains paintings of considerable merit. Among the best Mexican artists are Jose and Luis Juarez, Baltazar de Echave, Obre- gon, Parra, Arteaga, Rodriguez, Ibarra, and Cabrera, the latter being an Indian. There are several excellent por- traits of illustrious Mexicans in the Sala de Embaj adores at the National Palace, most of them having been painted by Segredo and Obregon. Y4 GENERAL INFORMAriON. The churches throughout tlie country are full of pic- tures, most of which are the work of Spanish artists, such as Murillo, Velasquez, Znrbaran, and Ribera. There are paintings by the former in the cathedrals of Mexico and Puebla, and in the church of La Compaiiia at the latter city. The picturesque landscapes and street scenes of Mexico afford good material for artists, and we would recommend the country to them as a new field of labor. XXIII. Immigration. The Mexican Government has recently adopted a com- prehensive plan for the encouragement of immigration. Agents are employed to bring settlers into the country. There is a bonus of from forty to fifty dollars a head for each immigrant, and the Government gives each helpless one an allowance of twenty-five cents a day till he can sup- port himself. Many Italians have come into Mexico. Some have been brought from New York, and others directly from the ports of Northern Italy. This scheme, however, is not productive of beneficial results. Each immigrant is maintained at the public expense for an indefinite period, and there is little incentive to work. Furthermore, a number of these Italian settlers belong to the criminal classes. A Mexican official of high rank has lately in- formed the author that this plan is about to be discon- tinued. The Mexican Transatlantic Steamship Company * will receive thirty dollars a head for each immigrant. As the Federal Government owns but little land, of which sections may be given to settlers, arrangements have been made wath the railroads to carry immigrants to the * The company's steamers are now in progress on the Clyde. IMMIGRATION. 75 interior at reduced rates. The Government will pay for their passage ; but, as the metes and bounds of the public lands are not accurately deiined, it would seem as if no lands could be given away at present. Senor M. Romero states, in The International Review for November, 1882, that land in the State of Chiapas is valued at twenty cents an acre, while that in Sonora is worth only five cents. Land is not for sale, however, in large quantities, ex- cepting a few stock-ranches in Northern Mexico. The proprietors are still sujficiently imbued with feudal notions to prompt them to hold on to their real estate. A few families still retain immense tracts. One hacendado is said to own an area of 10,000 square miles on the northern part of the Great Plateau. The railroad companies have occasionally been obliged to pay very high for a site on which to build a station and freight-house in the farming districts. We venture to predict that settlers will pour into Mex- ico rapidly after the American trunk-lines are completed. It is obvious, however, that the introduction of intelli- gent Americans, with capital, will be a very different thing from the influx of poverty-stricken peasants or miners from Europe. American immigration means permanent colonization, whereas that from other countries will hardly attain that distinction. It is possible, however, that colonies of German or Brit- ish miners may be established in Mexico. High wages and the salubrious climate will tend to attract them. During the year 1882 settlements of Europeans were founded in the States of Vera Cruz, Puebla, Morelos, and San Luis Potosi. The majority will certainly enter the Republic with the intention of engaging in either mining or manu- facturing enterprises. 76 GENERAL INFORMATION XXIV. Mines. An elaborate description of the mineral wealth of Mex- ico would require a large volume. We have only space for a brief account of the mines, together with some statistics of the production of the precious metals. The Cordillera, from Chihuahua on the north to Oaxaca on the south, contains almost inexhaustible deposits of gold, silver, iron, copper, and lead ; while zinc, mercury, tin, platinum, and coal occur in a few localities. The greatest variety of ores is found in the States of Sonora, Chihuahua, Michoacan, Guerrero, and Oaxaca. The first and last named States of the Eepublic possess auriferous gravel or placer deposits. Before the Conquest the mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin were worked by the Aztecs ; but the accounts usually given of the fabulous amount of gold used by this race of people, either for ornament or as money, have been greatly exaggerated. Cortes seized a large sum of gold at the an- cient capital of Mexico, the amount of which is variously estimated by different authors. The most accurate writers place the figures at 1300,000. As soon as the Spaniards had conquered Mexico, they turned their attention to the development of the mineral wealth of the country. The mines of Tasco, Zultepec, Pachuca, San Pedro de Jorullo, and Tlalpujahua were almost the only ones that were worked directly after the destruction of the city of Tenoch- titlan in 1521, and from that time to 1548, when the silver deposits of Zacatecas were discovered. Argentiferous veins constitute the principal part of the mineral wealth of Mexico, the silver generally occurring in the form of sulphides. The gangue is chiefly quartz. Most of these mines are situated between north latitude 19° and 24^°. MINES. 77 Humboldt, in his Political Essay on Ncio Spain, vol. iii, page 138, states the order of the districts containing the richest deposits of silver as follows : 1. Guanajuato. 2. Catorce. 3. Zacatecas. 4. Real del Monte. 5. Bolanos. 6. Guarisamey. 7. Sombrerete. 8. Tasco. 9. Batopilas. 10. Zimapan. 11. Fresnillo. 12. Eamos. 13. Parral. In 1803,* the mean annual yield of the precious metals amounted to 2,500,000 marcs of silver, and 700 marcs of gold. It is said that the total product of the Mexican mines up to the year 1883 is equal to 13,700,000,000 of silver. We should remember, however, that some of these mines are now on American soil, e. g., those of California, New Mexico, and Arizona. The yield of silver for 1882 can be roughly estimated at $28,000,000, while that of gold amounts to about 11,000,000. f Millions of dollars' worth of silver have long been and are now being exported to Europe. Humboldt states, in his work on New Spain, that two thirds of the silver supply of the whole world was annually shipped from the port of Vera Cruz, between the years 1800 and 1812, and some silver was also sent abroad from Acapulco. At present about fourteen millions' worth of this metal are annually exported to Europe. (Compare with chapter on commerce.) The supply of silver in Mexico is now derived chiefly from the mines of Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Sombrerete, Ca- torce, and Pdchuca. Gold generally occurs in small quan- tities with the silver-ores. But most of it is lost in the process of reduction. According to Humboldt, the Joint yield of the Zacatecas and Guanajuato mines from 1548 to 1600 was 12,000,000, and from 1600 to 1690 it was $3,000,000. The ores at the * At the time of Humboldt's visit. f The production of the mines of the United States for the fiscal year of 1882-'83 was $47,000,000 of silver and $32,000,000 of gold, given in round numbers. 78 GENERAL INFORMATION. former locality, as well as at Tasco and Catorce, are poor in gold ; wliile those of the latter town, and also at Guadalupe y Cairo, are rich in their percentage of the same metal. Perhaps the two most remarkable mineral veins of North America, excepting the famous Comstock lode of Nevada, are the veta madre of Guanajuato and the veta grande of Zacatecas. These veins have been worked for about three hundred years. ( Vide section on the Mexican Central Rail- road, for description.) The region adjoining these mining towns is an elevated desert, similar to the environs of Vir- ginia City in Nevada. Next to argentiferous deposits in importance are the immense beds of iron, which consist principally of the ox- ides called magnetite and hematite. The well-known Cerro del Mercado, in tlie State of Durango, has been calculated to contain sixty million cubic yards of iron-ore, having a spe- cific weight of five billion quintals. An analysis of this ore by Mr. M. H. Borje, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, gave 66 per cent of pure metal. There are other vast hills of iron in Sonora, near Coalcoman, in Michoacan, and in the central part of the State of Oaxaca. Lead-ores, usually in the form of galena and oftentimes argentiferous, are abundant throughout the country. Copper, either native or as oxide, carbonate, or sulphide, is mined at various localities in Chihuahua and Oaxaca, at the towns of Mazapil and Jalapa, and near the volcano of Jorullo, and also in Lower California. The oxide of tin is found in veins and alluvial beds at Durango. Mercury occurs combined with sulphur, i. e., cinnabar, in the States of Guerrero, San Luis Potosi, Michoacan, Oaxaca, Chihuahua, and Guanajuato. Zinc-ores are met "with in Chihuahua ; and platinum, antimony, cobalt, and nickel come from the same State. These last-named metals, however, arc not found in large quantities. MmES. 79 There are beds of coal in various parts of Mexico, but principally in the States of Oaxaca, Vera Cruz, Mexico, Puebla, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, and Sonora. Anthracite of good quality is mined in the latter State,* and a fair qual- ity of it is worked in the northern parts of Tamaulipas and Nuevo Leon. Some of this coal is burned in the engines of the Mexican National Eailway. Lignite or brown coal occurs in many localities, but it is not used to any extent. We have stated elsewhere, f that coal is imported in large quantities, owing to the scarcity of fuel near the lines of the railroads. It may be added that an extensive mine of coal would be of more value to Mexico at present than one of gold. As regards the cost and methods of mining in Mexico, it may be remarked, that the art has not yet attained the high degree of perfection known in Europe and the United States. Humboldt stated in 1803, that subterranean geom- etry was mostly unknown, and that, as a rule, the means of communication between contiguous mines were badly arranged. Millions have been expended in developing the mineral wealth of Guanajuato and Zacatecas. It is said that the Count de Valenciana dug three pits in a single mine near the former city, at the cost of 11,700,000 {vide p. 206). Owing to the low price of labor and the very econom- ical methods of the natives, more can be accomplished for a given amount of money at present, by working the metallic mines on the old Mexican plan, than by the modern and improved system. ( Vide chapter on labor and wages. ) Thus far, few shafts have been sunk to a greater depth than one thousand feet. Steam-hoisting works, pumps, and tramways in the various levels of the mines are rarely * Sec Section X in Part Second. ^ f In Section II of Part Second. 80 GENERAL INFORMATION. used. Malacates, or large horse-whims, are substituted for the former ; and water is raised in large skins attached to ropes. The peons carry pieces of ore weighing from one hundred to two hundred pounds on their backs from the "headings" of the levels to the main shaft, where the mineral is hoisted in huge baskets. ^^^^^J^^ pi F^ ^E=-= *• ^ m K Tff=^ ^ , B^s=?^ 1 m I^^SS^^ HH|— ^^1^ pel l|=S^-.^,ai ^Gffi IraP^'"^''^ fcr ^^^^^^^ ~^'^ i — ' ^^^^^™i BBA^^^^H ^^ BESi^lES LoiKjitudiiial Vuw of Timbered Level. Iron drills of domestic manufacture and tipped with steel are still used by the peons. A few foreigners are em- ployed at high wages in the mines of Chihuahua and the neighboring States, and also at the town of Pachuca, but they generally occupy positions like that of superintendent or engineer. American mine-owners in Mexico admit that the "jackass" mode of mining of the natives is cheaper than the European methods. The Mexican miners are not much annoyed by heat nor by water. Humboldt found the temperature at the bottom of the Valenciana mine, then 1,681 feet deep, to be 93° Fahr. The miners descend in the shafts, either by means MINES. 81 of massive stone steps that have been used for ages, as in Guanajuato, or on a series of ladders, as at Zacatecas. Peo7is pick the ore over by hand at the surface and sep- arate the gangue with small hammers. The ore is then carried to the reducing-mills on mule-back. Most of the mines and mills are inclosed by high walls, and the peons are searched before being allowed to leave. It is very common to conceal valuable fragments of gold or silver-bearing rock in the clothing, or in the hair, or under the arms, of the miners. (See chapter on Guanajuato in Section V.) The argentiferous ores of Mexico have been worked by the patio, or cold amalgamation process, for about three centuries. Mule-power is used almost entirely in the haciendas de heneficios or reducing-mills. * ( Vide chapter on Guanajuato, in Section V, Part Second, for a description of the patio process.) Mines in Mexico belong to individuals and not to the Government. If abandoned, however, they revert to the State. In order to hold a mine, the owner is required to work it during four months of the year. Should the pro- prietor neglect to observe this law, the property is "de- nounced," or claimed by the informer, and is soon adver- tised for sale. Sometimes valuable mines can be purchased for a mere song at a Government sale. Foreigners intending to invest in Mexican mines should employ a competent mining engineer to examine them, and should also exercise extreme caution in dealing with the owners, as Mexicans will not dispose of mining property unless they can make a very good bargain. At present very few mines in Mexico are paying dividends. In closing this chapter, it may be said that, if the tour- ist desires to visit the mines of the Eepublic, he will be treated with great courtesy by the superintendents and * One steam-mill with improved machinery has been erected at Guana^ juato. 82 GEXERAL INFORMATION. miners generally. The morning is the best time to go underground. For the convenience of travelers, we give a brief list of mining terms : Socahon, gallery or main adit ; tiro, shaft ; malacate, horse- whim ; escalas, ladders ; peiia or piedra, rock ; guija, quartz ; veta, vein ; mineral, ore ; ancho, Avide ; angosta, narrow ; oro, gold ; plata, silver ; cobre, copper ; Iderro, iron ; azogue, quicksilver ; plomo, lead ; esiano, tin ; azulfre, sulphur ; caliza, limestone ; hronce, pyrites. What kind of rock is it ? Como se llama esa piedra 9 How wide is the vein ? Que ancliura tiene la veta 9 Ten inches wide. Diez pulgadaa de ancho. How deep is the shaft ? Que profundidad tiene el tiro 9 I wish to see this mine. Quiero ver el interior de esta mina. Can I enter ? Puedo yo entrar 9 Thanks, gracias. For further information on the metallic resources of Mexico, consult Humboldt's work on Neiu Spain, vol. iii especially ; Ward's Mexico ; Whitney's Metallic Wealth of the United States ; and Busto's Estadistica de la Reptiblica Mexicana. XXV. Mineral Springs. MiNEEAL springs abound on the table-land of Mexico. Perhaps the best-known springs are at the city of Aguas- calientes, where a large bathing establishment has been erected. Ojos caliefites, or hot springs, are found in many places, not only in the vicinity of the volcanoes, but at great distances from them. These places are not as yet used extensively as resorts for invalids, but it is believed that they will be visited for this purpose when rendered accessible by railroads. GEOLOGY. 83 XXVI. Geology. This chapter may be read in connection with that on mines. Much has been written by Europeans and Ameri- cans on tlie geology of Mexico. But, interesting as the subject is, we have only space for an outline of the for- mation and i^hysical structure of the country. A large part of Mexico is overlaid by igneous rocks, which consist chiefly of trachyte, feldspar - porphyry, and amygdaloidal basalt. In the Sierra Madre, the metamorphic rocks, such as granite, gneiss, and clay-slate, are common. The great argentiferous veins frequently occur in the latter rock, al- though sometimes in porphyry, e. g., at Eeal del Monte, or in talcose slate, e. g., some mines at Guanajuato. Limestone is found at Tasco and Orizaba. It is ex- tensively quarried at the latter town. The same rock constitutes the greater part of the eastern branch of the Cordillera between San Luis Potosi and Monterey. Ac- cording to Dr. Wislizenus, the limestone at Saltillo be- longs to the Silurian age. The lower part of the ticrra caliente consists mostly of alluvial soil, although in a few places rocky ridges extend to the coast, e. g., at Aca- pulco. We have referred to the localities of the ores of the principal metals and of coal in the chapter on mines. Deposits of nitre, kaolin, common salt, and Glauber's salt, or sulphate of soda, are abundant on the table-land. Petro- leum occurs plentcously in the States of Vera Cruz, Puebla, Tabasco, and Oaxaca. Sulphur is found at the volcanoes, especially those of Popocatepetl and Orizaba. A large sup- ply is now obtained from the former. It is said that Cortes's warriors descended into the crater 84 GENERAL INFORMATION. of Popocatepetl to procure sulpluir for the manufacture of gunpowder. The abundance of hot springs on the Mexi- can plateau has already been mentioned (see p. 82). The volcanoes are j)erhaps the most interesting features in the geology of Mexico to travelers. There are four active * volcanoes in the Republic ; but no eruption has occurred in any of them during the present century. Earth- TTie Peak of Orizaba quakes are common in the vicinity, however, and solfataras, fumaroles emitting hot aqueous vapor, and adjoining warm springs, indicate that these volcanoes are still in a semi- active state. Beginning on the western coast, the Mexican volcanoes are : Colima, Jorullo, Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl, Orizaba, and Tuxtla. The heights of these mountains are given in Part Second. Humboldt, who was the first scientific observer to make an extensive geological reconnaissance of Mexico, has re- * By the term " active " we mean those volcanoes in which an eruption has taken place within the memory of man. GEOLOGY. 85 marked that the volcanoes just named lie on the same great vent of the earth's crust, and approximately on the nine- teenth parallel of north latitude {vide Cosmos, vol. v, p. 377, ef seq.). The most important geological event in Mexico since the Spanish Conquest is the elevation of the volcano of Jorullo, which took place in the year 1759 (see Section IV, in Part Second, for a long account of it). The description of Jorullo explains, in a general way, the manner in which volcanic mountains are formed. There are still many parts of the Mexican Eepublic where the hammer of the geologist has not yet sounded, because scientists have thus far confined their observations chiefly to the vicinity of the metallic deposits and the vol- canoes. A great variety of minerals and precious stones is found in Mexico. Senor Busto states that the number of mineral species is three hundred and sixty-five, the majority of which occur as ores. We have not sufficient space in this volume to give the complete list, but among the gems of the country we may mention the ruby, diamond, opal, topaz, emerald, garnet, agate, carnelian, and tecali, or so-called Mexican onyx, which is a variegated calcite. For further information on the geology of Mexico, the reader is referred to Humboldt's Cosmos and Neto Spain ; Busto's Estadistica de la Repuhlica Mexicana ; Burkart's Aufentlialt und Reisen in Mexico in den Jaliren 1825- 1834 ; Wislizeuus, Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico; and various articles in the American Journal of Science and Arts, in the Annales des Mines, in Poggendorff's An- nalen, and several other French and German scientific peri- odicals. 86 GENERAL INFORM ATI OK XXVJI. Zoology. Owing to the variety of climate of the three zones of Mexico, the fauna of each one differs greatly. Among the animals indigenous to the country, large mammals are very rare. The most common species are the black bear, or oso ; the deer, or venado ; the Mexican wolf, or coyote ; the marten, or camomiotte ; the otter, or nutria ; the squirrel, or urion ; the porcupine, ovhoitzlacuatzin ; the skunk, or gatomontes (of which there are four varieties) ; and two kinds of the hare, or liehres. One of these was called the jachass-rabhit by the United States troops dur- ing the Mexican War. Several other rodents, the armadillo, the shrew-mole, or topo, and the opossum, or zorra mocliilera, also abound. Besides the domestic fowls, two hundred kinds of birds, including eagles, hawks, ravens, wild turkeys, and buzzards, are found in the Kepublic. Eeptiles are comparatively scarce on the table-land, but are abundant in the tierra templada and tierra caliente. Turtles {tortugas de mar) are common in the Gulf of Mexico, the chelonia imhricata, which furnishes the well- known tortoise-shell of commerce, occurring near the east- ern coast. Alligators {lagartos) live in the swamps of the southern States. Lizards {lagartijas) are plentiful in the hot zone. The iguana {Lacerta iguana, Linnaeus) sometimes grows to a length of three feet. Another siDCcies of lizard, known as the alcatelepon, being about fifteen inches long, and having a rough gray skin, is found in the country. Its bite is painful, though not dangerous. Snakes (serpientes) occur in the various zones, but prin- ZOOLOGY. 87 eipally in the tierra caliente. Poisonous serpents are un- known at an elevation above seven thousand feet. Both land and fresh-water snakes exist in Mexico. The most common sj)ecies are the rat- tlesnake, or cascahel ; the darting-snake, or saUillo ; the black-snake, ovculelyra; and the centoatl, whose skin shines in the dark. Among the sirens, the siredon, or axolotl, having a length of ten to fifteen inches, is found in the Lake of Texcoco, and in lagoons of the adjoining mountains. During the war of the Conquest, the axolotl was so plentiful that Cortes is said to have fed his army upon it. The many fresh-water lakes of Mexico are well stocked with fish (pescado), the principal kinds being the bass, eel, trout, white- fish, and hagre. The flesh of the latter is delicious and is extensively used for food. The waters along the coast of the Eepublic likewise af- ford a great variety. The red mullet, or mujol, is a favorite article of food among the Mexicans. It was this kind of fish tluit was carried by swift-footed couriers from Vera Cruz to the ancient capital, a distance of two hundred miles, for Montezuma's table. 88 ENEEA L J y FORM A TIOX. There are infinite numbers of species of insects in the country. Many are poisonous, and the bites of others are verv painful. Butterflies {mariposas) and ants {hormigas) exist in great variety. The (irricra, or carrying-ant, is very injurious to agri- culture. The black and red ant are abundant, and their 1. Cochineal Inseds on branch of Cad us. -2. FemaU Insect. 3. JTale Insect. sting produces much pain. There are six kinds of bees (abejas). Among the -^orms may be mentioned the teocuilin, which possesses the properties of the cantliarides, and the temahuani, whose bite is venomous. Ticks {reznos), mosquitoes (mosqu'ifos), jiggers (neguas), and moniquilcs, are common in the tierra caliente. The latter burrow under the skin, causing great suffering (see p. 156). The cochineal, or cochiniUa, is found extensively m Oa- xaca. Fleas (pulgas) are plentiful throughout the country. BOTANY, 89 The silk-worm {gusano de seda) is raised in the south- ern States. Among the aracTinida of Mexico are the scorpion {es- corpion or alacran) and tarantula, which are found in all the zones. The centipede (escolopendra or cientopies) occasionally grows to a length of eighteen inches, and is abundant in the tierra templada and tierra caliente. In the sub-kingdom of mollusca, we will mention only the pearl-oyster, which occurs on the Pacific coast. The pearl (perla) fishery at La Paz, in Lower California, is of some importance. The fauna of Mexico has not thus far been fully described. XXVIII. Botany. The flora of Mexico consists of an infinite variety of species, on account of the configuration of the country. There is, perhaps, not a single plant known to science that can not be grown in the Eepublic. The three zones have each a different flora, which may be described as follows : In the tierra caliente, the plants consist mostly of tropi- cal fruits, cocoa-palms, dye-woods, sugar-cane, indigo, and cotton. In the tierra templada, there are bamboo and camphor- trees, oaks, cypresses, coffee, tobacco, and the cereals. In the tierra fria, are found deciduous trees, and coni- fera like the pine, spruce, cedar, and fir, and the various species of cactus. Wheat and a few vegetables also grow in the latter region. Much logwood and Brazil-wood are found in the States 90 GENERAL INFORMATION of Tabasco,* Chiapas, and Campeche; and in Sinaloa, ma- hogany, rose-wood, and ebony are abundant. There are extensive forests in the States of Sonora, Chi- huahua, Durango, Sinaloa, Jalisco, Michoacan, and Chiapas, and in the neighborhood of the volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Orizaba. We have referred elsewhere to the forests that once existed in the valley of Mexico {vide Section III of Part Second). During the winter season the deciduous trees on the Indigo Plant {AniV), table-land shed their leaves, which are replaced by a new- growth within a few weeks. There is a great variety of fruits in the tierra caliente, among which are many species which are rarely seen m temperate climates, such as the granadita, mamey, and chirimoya. * The el\ caoba, acnm, evano, chimay, chulid, copal, and other \NOods rrrow in the States of Tabasco and Chiapas. AaniGULTURE. 91 The most abundant fruits are oranges, limes, bananas, and pineapples. Flowers are cheap and plentiful at all seasons. Some species bloom on the great plateau. Dahlias and roses are most common in the parks and gardens of the cities. The country possesses many- other beautiful flowering plants that are known only to Euro- peans in the botanic gardens, such as the clavel, floripondio, and aziicena. We may sum up the flora of Mexico as follows : There are fifty-six kinds of building- woods and twenty-one kinds of " cabinet "-wood ; four va- rieties of gum and three of resin ; twelve kinds of forage ; one hundred species of odor- iferous flowers, and fifty-two of cereals and vegetables ; eighty-seven kinds of fruit, and one hundred and thirteen species of medicinal plants. There are in all ten thousand known families of plants, many of which are of no economical importance. The prin- cipal trees and shrubs of the country are referred to in the itineraries of Part Second. Brazil- Wood, — Leaves^ Flower^ and Fruit. XXIX. Agriculture. According to Prescott,* agriculture in the Aztec Em- I)ire was in the same state of advancement as the other arts * Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 134. 92 GENERA L IN FORMA HON. of social life. In the natural openings of the primeval forest, or in a fertile strip of interval, the Aztecs planted beans and Indian corn. All, except the nobles and soldiery, cultivated the soil, the work being done chiefly by the men. The more important branches of husbandry were the culture of the banana, which was easily grown and gave exuberant returns ; the production of cliocolatl from the cocoa-palm ; the cultivation of the vanilla, which was con- fined to a small strip of the sea-coast; and the plant- ing of maize and the ma- guey. Prescott calls the latter "a miracle of na- ture," on account of the large number of ^articles that are made from it. The Aztecs pressed the stalks of Indian corn to obtain the sap for sugar. There is no evidence that the tillage of the country was materially • improved by the Spanish Conquest. Nevertheless, it must be admitted that agricul- ture is still in its infancy in the various parts of Mexico. This is due to the persistency of the peons in making use of the rude implements of their forefathers. Fortunately, an easily worked and fertile soil generally exists in the Repub- lic. Frost occurs only on the table-land, and is rare in many portions of it. All kinds of cereals, vegetables, and fruits are cultivated in the country, but the absence of facilities for cheap transportation in some of the States is a great drawback. Tlie Vanilla Plant. AamCULTURE. 93 The products of the three geographical divisions of Mexico may be briefly stated as follows : In the hot region, cotton, vanilla, indigo, rice, hemp, sarsaparilla, peppers, bene-seed, anise-seed, caoutchouc, cocoa, cassia, oranges. India-ruhher Plant (Hule). bananas, and other tropical fruits grow to perfection. Sev- eral of these j)lants thrive without tillage. In the temper- ate region, coffee, sugar, tobacco, cotton, brown beans,* peas, and a few other vegetables, and the fruits of north- ern latitudes are cultivated. In the cold region, the cereals, the maguey, or aloe, and the hardy vegetables, as potatoes, carrots, beans, etc., are found. {Vide chapter on botany.) "Wheat t grows at as high an elevation as 8,500 feet in the latitude of the capital ; and maize and the maguey may be cultivated at nearly the same altitude. The crops in Mexico are dependent partly upon rain- * Brown beans, maize, and pepper grow in all the States. •j- Wheat grows in all but five States. 94: GENERAL IXF0RMATI02T. fall and partly upon irrigation. North of tlie twentieth parallel, irrigation is necessary on the table-land. In the southern States the rains are generally limited to one con- tinuous season, which varies from five to seven months in the year. As in other tropical latitudes, a deluging rain oftentimes does more harm than good to the growing erops. Referring to this important subject, Humboldt has re- marked in his work on New Spain, vol. ii, page 455 : " Were the soil of Mexico watered by more frequent rains, it Avould be one of the most fertile countries cultivated by man in either hemisphere." The prosperity of New Spain dejaends upon the proportion of dry and wet season. The farmer, of course, takes advantage of the rainy sea- son, and in the northern and central States he sows in May and reaps in October, Two crops of wheat and In- dian corn are grown annually in various sections of the tierra templada and on the central table-land. The sec ond crojD is, however, sometimes destroyed by a premature frost. In the States of Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, Guerrero, Tabasco, Mexico, and Jalisco, three crops of maize are cul- tivated in a single yotir ! They are called respectively the 7'iego, temporal, and tonalmile. As irrigation (riego) is necessary for more than one half of the surface of the country, let us now consider this sub- ject. In the Aztec Empire acequias, or irrigating ditches, were used. The Spaniards were agreeably surprised to find a system equal to that which the Moors had established in the Iberian Peninsula. The plan of watering the soil by artificial channels, however, is at present limited to a com- paratively small portion of the arable land in the country. In order to increase the annual yield of grain and vege- tables, the Mexicans should adopt the system of tanks which has been in use so long in British India. Water-companies should be organized for this purpose, and the huge ravines, or larrancas, of the sierra should be AGRICULTURE. 95 dammed np for the storage of an abundant supply of water for seasons of drought. The soil of Mexico might be caused to yield a hundred- fold more grain than is now produced, and the Eepublic eventually enabled to compete with the States of California and Oregon in exporting the cereals to Europe.* Grain lias recently (1883) been sent from California to New Or- leans, La., via the Southern Pacific Railroad. The cereals of Northern Mexico might be transported to the sea-board by the same route. This subject is worthy of the attention of foreign capitalists. As regards the amount of cereals cultivated within a given area in Mexico, it may be remarked that the propor- tion of grain to seed varies from forty to one to three hun- dred to one. An average yield would be about one hun- dred and fifty to one. In very fertile land one fanega (about three bushels) of seed will produce four hundred fanegas of maize. Humboldt has remarked that the finest soil on the plateau is to be found in the rich plains lying between the cities of San Juan del Rio and Leon. It is not usual in Mexico to estimate a crop of grain by the number of bushels to the acre. In response to inquiries made in various States, the author Avas told that the yield of maize varied from twenty to forty bushels to an acre. The highest production is seventy bushels. No figures as to the proportionate amount of wheat and barley yielded could be obtained. Next to the cereals, the great stajale * Notwithstanding her immense mineral resources, California has since 1876, with the aid of improved agricultural implements and acequias, yielded more in agricultural products than from her mines. This State resembles Mexico in soil and in outline. According to Sefior M. Romero, more wheat can be cultivated in Sonora than in California. And it may be added that the same remark will apply to the Mexican States bm-dering on the Pacific Ocean, as well as to those of Guanajuato, Quer^taro, Hidalgo, Mexico, More- los, and Puebla. Indian corn, barley, and brown beans are also grown extcnsivclv in several of these States. 96 GENERAL INFORMATION. products of Mexico are coffee, sugar, tobacco, cocoa, and cotton. All except the last-named are exported. Coffee {cafe) was introduced into the AVest Indies about the year 1714, and was thence advanced to New Spain at the beginning of the present century. It grows best in the temperate zone, and in the shade of the forest. It is now cultivated in eight States — viz.. Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, Chia- pas, Tabasco, Guerrero, Colima, Michoacan, and Morelos. The State of Vera Cruz yields the largest quantity. Co- T7ie Coffee Plant. lima ranks next, and produces the finest variety of the article. It rivals the choicest Mocha brand. There is a great demand in foreign countries for Mexican coffee ; and doubtless the annual production will soon be doubled if not quadrupled. Sugar-cane {cana de azucar) is grown extensively in all but seven States of the Republic. The greatest amount of sugar comes from Morelos, and the State of Vera Cruz ranks second. Irrigation is necessary for its successful cul- tivation in some States. Sugar-cane grows both in the AGRICULTURE. 97 tierra caliente and tierra templada up to an elevation of 6,000 feet. In the latter, eighteen months are required for the crop to mature, while in the former the time varies from nine to twelve months. The sugar-cane of Mexico is of three kinds — viz., those of Castile, Havana, and Otaite. At the time of Humboldt's visit,* about 14,000,000 pounds of sugar were exported annually. In 1881 the amount did not exceed 500,000 pounds. Tobacco is indigenous to Mexico. Indeed, it derives its name from the town of Tobaco in Yucatan. The culture of it was formerly restricted by law to the vicinity of Ori- zaba, f At present it grows chiefly in the States of Vera Cruz, Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatan, Oaxaca, Sinaloa, and Jalisco. ( Vide chapter on cigars and tobacco. ) Cocoa {cacao) is found in the States of Tabasco, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Colima. The first-named State pro- duces the largest amount, the culture of cocoa being the principal branch of its agricultural industry. Chiapas ranks second, and but little of this article grows in the remainder of the Eepublic. Cotton {algodon) is cultivated in about half the States. Vera Cruz produces the largest quantities, and Durango ranks next. The finest cotton comes from the Pacific coast States and from Vera Cruz. It is also grown extensively in the vicinity of the lagoon of Tlahualila (which is familiarly called the "laguna country"), and in Southern Chihuahua. According to Senor Busto, an acre of land will yield about 2,000 pounds of cotton as an average. J It thrives up to an elevation of five thousand feet. In 1803 the annual exportation of cotton amounted to * 1803. f In 1800 two million pounds of tobacco grew in the districts of Ori- zaba and Cordoba. X In the southern part of the United States, 950 pounds of cotton to the acre is a fair averajre. 98 GENERAL IXFORMATIOX. 700,000 pounds. At present it is not exported, nor is it cul- tivated in quite sufficient quantities for home consumption. In 180G Mexican cotton-seeds were introduced into Mis- sissippi by Walter Burling, Esq., and are supposed to have improved the character of the staple thus grown. Coeoanut Falm. Vanilla is produced in the States of Vera Cruz and Oaxaca. According to Humboldt, Europe received its en- tire supply of this commodity from Mexico previous to 1812. Bananas grow luxuriantly in the tierra caliente, and the maguey, or aloe, is cultivated extensively on the table-land. It is said that a plantation of the latter pays better as an investment than any other kind of crop in Mexico. The maguey will grow in a soil that is almost barren. It ma- tures in eight years in the States of Puebla and Mexico ; and in San Luis Potosi it becomes ripe in five years. This plant will not blossom in northern climes.* * There is a popular belief that the maguey in temperate latitudes will reach maturity once in a hundred years. Hence the name " century-plant." AGRICULTURE. 99 With the improved processes of tillage, including the use of modern implements, extensive tanks and irrigating ditches, all of which are likely to be introduced at an early- day, the staple products of Mexico will of course be in- creased many fold. The culture of sugar and tobacco is, and will doubtless continue to be, more profitable than that of the cereals. The cultivation of the tropical and semi-tropical fruits will also be carried on far more extensively than at present throughout the tier r a caliente, and in the lower parts of the tierra templada. A recent correspondent of the Cliicago Tribune describes the Mexican farmer as follows : " On the ranch or vil- lage home of the ' greaser ' Mexican everything bears the stamp of negligence and shiftlessness. Their gaunt, sharp- nosed, long-legged, and tan-colored hogs share with their owners in the comforts of the family residence. No fences except brush surround their fields. Generally there are none. They raise just sufficient wheat, barley, beans, and cliili (red peppers) to meet their absolute needs. They thrash their crops upon bare, smooth ground by driving flocks, of goats over them and washing in the nearest stream. They often plow with a crooked stick, and the hoe is their scythe, sickle, and reaper. Even their hay is cut with a hoe. They as a rule live in villages and culti- vate small fields upon their outskirts. Living as they do, and possessing a soil which under irrigation is wonderfully productive, they require but little ground to cultivate." Agricultural implements are admitted free of duty {vide p. 57). American reapers, mowers, plows, etc., have been introduced on the ranches of the northern and central part of the table-land. Time will, however, be required to induce the peons to abandon their rude ancestral tools that simply scratch the ground. Labor is abundant at three reales (37i cents) a day. It is hardly necessary to remark that 100 GENERAL INFORMATION. the land will be best develoiicd by the immigration of skilled farmers from Europe and the United States. The following table, copied from Busto's Estadistica de la Repiiblica Mexicana, gives a list of the agricultural pro- ductions of the Kepublic. It will be seen that the propor- tion of maize is about four fifths of the total product, while that of wheat is but one twentieth. Oats are rarely culti- vated, and rye but sparingly.* PEODUCTS. Chickling vetch (a kind of pea). Cotton Bene-seed Canary-seed Anise-seed Indigo Rice Sugar and molasses Cocoa Coffee Barley Cumin-seeds Peppers of all kinds Brown beans (frijoks) Peas Beans Hemp Ixtle (a kind of hemp) Lentils Maize (Indian corn) Potatoes Straw Tobacco Wheat Vanilla , Sarsaparllla Pounds. 27,831,012 55,391,072 6,710,308 2,467,025 2,477,090 422,941 33,366,493 154,199,210 3,174,605 17,514,877 511,134,850 225,141 119,0 1,908 508,656.233 25,277,928 34,589,634 88,176,000 4,910,158 4,625,775 11,681,140,666 23,227,024 431,740,320 16,510,980 747,349,004 121,248 1,073,648 Total 14,452,954,787 Value in Mexican dollars. 543,283 6,605,831 153,643 57,410 127,268 358,002 1,248,244 8,761,317 1,140,050 2,060,382 4,403,742 23,500 4,196,482 8,406,211 471,075 477,610 3,352,000 154,053 83,043 112,164,424 457,592 1,962,879 2,006,153 17,436.345 651,958 149,489 177,451,986 * Compared with the United States, the annual corn-crop of Mexico is one ninth of tliat of the sister Kepublic; the wheat-crop is one forty-first, and the cotton-crop is but one forty-fifth. Maize being the principal arti- cle of food, the failure of the crop causes great suffering, as the poorer classes must then subsist on unripe fruit, berries, and roots. MAPS AND SURVEYS. 101 XXX. Maps and Surveys. Baeon" vof Humboldt was the first scientific traveler who made extensive astronomical observations and baro- metric measurements in Mexico. He determined the lati- tude and longitude, and the elevations of various cities and towns throughout the country. He also published charts and sketch-maps in his immortal work on New Spain. No complete topographical survey of Mexico has ever been made, and we need not say that it would cost far more than the National Government could afford to pay in the present state of the finances. The best atlas of Mexico has been compiled by Senor A. Garcia Cubas, being entitled El Atlas metodico de la Geo- grafia de la Rejpublica Mexicana. The Mexican National Railway Company has published a large map, and Eand, McNally & Co., of Chicago, and Colton, of New York, have issued pocket-maps, of the Re- public. Several excellent maps have been prepared in France and Germany. A good topographical map is published by J. L. Smith, of Philadelphia, Pa. A map of the heart of Mexico, including the mountains of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, has been printed in New York, and is on sale in the shops of the Mexican capital. A complete map, on a large scale, will soon be a possi- bility, considering the extensive surveys of the various rail- roads throughout the country. The boundary-lines of the public lands have never been determined, and the lack of accurate surveys is sadly felt at the present time. Dur- ing the Spanish domination the grants to individuals were practically unlimited, as the grantees took possession oi 102 GENERAL INFORMATION. immense tracts of land without defining the metes and bounds. It is to be presumed that the Federal Government will authorize a general survey of their joublic lands at an early day. xxxr. Stock-Raising, Soox after the .Spanish Conquest, horned cattle, horses, donkeys, sheep, and hogs were exjDorted in large numbers to Mexico from tlie mother-country. At the present time more attention is devoted to rearing horses, mules, and cattle than to other animals. The Mexican horse is of small stature, but possesses great endurance, and resembles the Arabian breed. The mules in Mexico are inferior in size to those of the United States, but are said to be capable of doing more work than the latter. Donkeys were intro- duced into New Spain by the priesthood, to take the jslace of the porters for carrying merchandise. (See chapter on labor and wages.) Cattle and sheej? may be raised advan- tageously in most of the States of the Eepublic. The northern States, especially Tamaulipas, afford the best graz- ing-land. Several English companies have recently pur- chased large stock-ranges in Tamaulipas, Nuevo-Leon, and Sonora. Excellent pasturage may be found in the valleys of Toluca and Orizaba. The former is noted for a superior breed of hogs. The greater part of the region that is used for grazing lies on the table-land. Most of the arable land in the tierra ccdiente and tier r a templada is employed for agricultural purposes. The hacieyidas of El Salado and Cedres, in the central part of Mexico, are among the largest stock-ranches in the Republic. Artificial ponds and tanks for watering animals are common throughout the country. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 103 Cattle-raising bids fair to become an important industry in Northern Mexico at an early day. The mildness of the winters admits of the stock feeding on the pastures, and there is no danger of losing the herd by a snow-storm. The natives are good herdsmen. It may be remarked, however, that marauding bands of Indians occasionally make raids on the stock-ranches, involving great loss to the owners. Eanches are usually sold by the sitio, which is equivalent to 4,438 acres. It is said that several large cattle-ranches in Northern Mexico are for sale at pres- ent. ( Vide next chapter. ) XXXII. Weights and Measures. The French metric system of weights and measures has been adopted in the Republic of Mexico, but in the rural districts the inhabitants have not done away with the old system (although it is no longer the legal one), of which we give a sketch. MEXICAlsr LAN"D-MEASUEES. (Translated from the Ordenanzas de Tierras y Aguas.) The Mexican vara is the same as the vara of Castile, and is divided into thirds or foot-fourths, sixths, and thirty- sixtli inches. It equals 33^ inches, American measure. Fifty Mexican varas make a measure called a cor del. A Mexican league contains 100 cordels, or 5,000 varas. The league is divided into halves and quarters. The half-league contains 2,500 varas. Sitio de Ganado Mayor {sitio, a farm for raising cattle). — The form of a sitio de estancia de ganado mayor is a square whose sides measure 5,000 Mexican varas. The area of a sitio is 25,000,000 square varas, or 4,428 acres. 104 GENERAL INFORMATION. Criadero tie Ganado Mayor (place for breeding animals). — It is a square equal to a fourth part of a sitio de ganado mayor, whose sides measure 2,500 varas, and contains an area of 6,250,000 square varas. Sitio de Ganado Menor (farm for raising sheep or goats), — The form of a sitio de estancia de ganado menor is a square whose sides measure 3,333^ varas. Its area contains 11,111,111^ square varas. Criadero de Ganado Menor. — It is a square whose sides measure l,66Gf varas, and its area contains 2,777,777^ square varas. Cahalleria de Tierra (33^ acres American measure). — The form of a cahalleria de tierra is a rectangular parallelo- gram whose north or small side contains 552 varas, and whose greatest length is 1,104 varas. Its area contains 609,- 408 square varas. Media Cahalleria de Tierra. — It is a square whose side measures 552 varas, and contains 304, 704 square varas. Suerte de Tierra (lot of ground — a chance). — It is the fourth part of a cahalleria de tierra, and the same figure, whose long side measures 552 varas, and 276 in width. It contains 152,352 square varas. The Cahalleria de Tierra is also divided into twelve fanegas of good seed-oats. The fanega is equal to three American bushels or a superficies of 8*5624 American acres. Solar de Tierra (ground on which a house is built — town-lot). — Any parcel of land less than a suerte. Solar para Casas (for houses, mills, and markets). — It is a square of 50 varas — 2,500 square varas. Fundo Legal (a piece of ground which is cultivated ; town site). — It is a tract of land whose form is a square of 1,200 varas on each side, and contains an area of 1,440,000 square varas. Porcion. — Porcion is a measure sometimes used. It is a tract of land 1,000 varas wide and 16,000 varas long. WEIOHTS AND MEASURES. 105 Labor (a cultivated field). — A square containing 1,000,- 000 square varas, or 177 acres. Texas Measure. — League and labor, 26,000,000 square varas, or 4,605 acres. To find the number of acres in a given number of square varas, divide by 5,646, fractions rejected. THE EXGLISH AND FEENCH SYSTEMS OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED. The unit of the metric or French system of weights and measures is the metre, which is equal to 39-37 inches. The Measures of Length are : 1 millimetre = -03937 inch. 1 centimetre = •3987 u 1 decimetre = 3-987 incliei 1 metre = 89-87 u 1 decametre = 32-809 feet. 1 hectometre = 19-8842 rods. 1 kilometre = -6213 mile. 1 myriametre = 6-2138 miles, Measures of Surface. 1 square centimetre = '155 square inch. 1 square decimetre = 15-5 square inches. 1 square metre or (^ _ J 10-764 square feet. 1 centare S | 1-96 square yard. 1 square decametre or ) _ j 3-954 square rods. 1 are \ 1 '0247 acre. 1 square hectometre, or 1 hectare = 2-471 acres. 1 square kilometre = '3861 square mile. Measures of Volume. 1 cuhic centimetre = -061 cuhic inch. 1 cuhic decimetre or ) _ j -0853 " 1 litre i ~~ 1 1-0567 liquid quart. 1 cuhic metre, or 1 stere = 3o-3165 cuhic feet. 106 GENERAL INFORMATION. Measures of Capacity, The litre is the unit of capacity, both of liquid and of dry measures, and is equal in volume to one cubic deci- metre. Dry measure. Liquid measure. ' 1 centilitre = "Gl en bio inch = -338 fluid oz. 1 decilitre = 6-10 cubic incbes = •845 gill. 1 litre = -908 quart = 1-0567 quart. 1 decalitre = 9-081 quarts = 2-64175 gallons. 1 hectolitre = 2-837 bushels = 26-4175 " 28-37 busbels 1-308 cubic yard 283-72 bushels 1 kilometre, or stere = 1 myrialitre = = 264-175 =2,641-75 Measures of Weight. The gramme is the unit of weight, and is equal to a weight of a cubic centimetre of distilled water. 1 centigramme 1 decigramme 1 gramme 1 decagramme 1 hectogramme 1 kilogramme or kilo 1 myriagrarame 1 quintal 1 tonneau or \ ton f -1543 + grain, troy. 15432+ " " 15-432+ grains, " -03527+ ounce, avoirdupois. •3527 + 3-5274+ ounces, " 2-6792 pounds, troy. 2-2046+ " avoirdupois. 22-046+ " " 112 2204-62+ " " 1-1023 ton. N. B. — Except the tabic of the metric system, the preceding part of this chapter is taken almost verbatim from Castro's Republic of Mexico. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. lOT 1— ITt<0>i— lrJH<>4i— 11— I (m" ^^ i-T i-T CO to 00 O 3 — I (M CO K> lO to ■• — — - — 1— I O CJ Q C' to CO i-i 05 O c O O CO_ lO to o" co" (M" i-T i-T 'i* CI iM to O »o lo t- .~ la io c^ CO ^ CO Hi 02 ^ »j >! "« •?? O ^ ^ i 1 1 cq C C S; S ^ ^ *-2 rO 108 GENERAL INFORMATION. XXXIII. Labor and Wages. Slavery existed in Mexico before and after the Spanish Conquest, but it was abolished soon after the establishing of Mexican Independence. Formerly convicts worked in the cotton and woolen factories in comjian)' with free la- borers ; and Humboldt, in his Political Essay on New Spain, has spoken of the injurious effect of this system on the latter class. Labor is now abundant throughout the Republic. In some of the larger cities the suj)ply is greater than the demand. Skilled labor is rare among the natives, but they are capable of learning any trade. European labor has not thus far been largely introduced into Mexico. American negroes have been imported to a limited extent for the purpose of railway-construction. The peons or day-laborers may be divided principally into two great classes, i. e., those engaging in mining, and those who are employed on farms and ranches. The former class are much better workmen than the latter. They are not migratory in their habits, and will often remain in one mining district for a lifetime. The miners and millers work about seven hours daily. They are usually peaceable, and receive better wages than the agricultural peons. The latter are, as a rule, lazy and indolent. In the tierra fria and tierra templada they work from daylight to sunset, with a siesta at noon, while in the tierra caliente the hours of labor are from 5 to 11 A. m., and from 3 to 6 p. m. Women do not generally work in the fields. A third class of workmen is employed in the factories and hotels, and by the railways. Male and female opera- tives obtain employment in the former, A considerable number of the Indian population act LABOR AND WAGES. 109 as public porters on the highways. Men and women en- gage in this occupation, and they use alpen-stocks while walking. An ordinary porter will carry a load of one <^ Mexiean Porters. hundred and fifty pounds for a distance of twenty miles daily. All kinds of merchandise are transported on the backs of porters.* During the eighteenth century the Spanish priests are said to have imported donkeys or burros in large num- * The author saw an Indian carrjing a large sofa on the road from the City of Mexico to Cuernavaca. It was fastened to his body by means of ropes and straps passing across his breast and forehead, and extending under his arms. 110 GENERAL information: bers to take the place of porters in carrying burdens (see p. 102). The laboring classes of Mexico are exceedingly jealous of the introduction of labor-saving machinery. They re- gard it as an unwarranted means of preventing them from earning a living. Two recent events will serve to illustrate the antagonism of the peons to modern imi^rovements. Soon after the adoption of the comi)ressed air-brake on the railroads of the United States, the Mexican Eaihvay Company discharged several of their brakemen and intro- duced this improved brake on their trains. The company's servants rebelled against this system, and stole the stop- cocks from the air-pipes, thereby compelling their em- ployers to reinstate them.* Eecently the owner of a large hacienda purchased an outfit of American agricultural implements. 1^\& peons saw in them an unjustifiable interference with their own meth- ods of farming, and in the course of a few weeks the enlight- ened liacendado discovered to his surprise that his stock of instruments had been destroyed. These facts are significant, but fortunately the intense feeling against new inventions and improved machines is confined to the lower classes.f The following table of wages will be found useful for reference. It is taken from Consul-General Strother's an- nual report for 1882, the figures being approximately stated : Carpenters, per day %\ 00 to $1 50 Blacksmiths, per day 1 00 to 2 50 Upholsterers, per day 75 to 1 25 Shoemakers, per day 75 to 1 50 Book-binders, per day 75 to 1 00 * These facts were related to the author by a station-master of the Mexican Central Railroad Company. f In constructing railroads, the contractors introduced the wheelbarrow among the peons. They carried it on their heads when filled with earth, and it was found that more work could be done with the gunny-bag held on the shoulders. LABOR AND WAGES. HI Turners, per day % 75 to $1 00 Farriers, locksmiths, silversmiths (generally in- cluded in blacksmithing), per day 75 to 1 00 Tinners, per day 75 to 87| Plumbers and gas-fitters, per day 75 to 100 Pattern-makers, molders (in foundries are paid by the piece), gilders, per day 75 to 1 25 Coach-makers, per day 150 to 2 00 Harness-makers and saddlers, per day 75 to 1 00 Stone-masons, stone-cutters, brick-layers (all un- der the same heading), per day 75 to 1 25 House-painters, per day 75 to 1 25 Quarry-men (paid by the piece), common laborers (peons), per day 37^ to 50 Porters, or cargadores, a course, per day 12^ to 50 Plasterers, plain and ornamental (per day) 1 25 to 1 50 Tailors (equivalent to per diem) 1 00 to 1 50 Hatters (equivalent to per diem) 87|- to 1 00 Cigar-makers (chiefly women), per diem 50 to 1 00 Seamstresses (per diem) 372 to 50 Cotton spinners and weavers, woolen spinners and weavers (paid by the piece, equivalent to per diem) 1 00 Factory-liands (per day) 50 to 75 Engine-drivers (per day) 1 00 to 1 50 IStokers (per day) 87| to 1 50 teailway conductors (per day) 1 00 Machinists (per day) 1 00 to 1 75 printers (equivalent to per diem) 1 00 to 2 00 In the trades and occupations which may have been pmitted in the above list, the current wages of Journey- [men will be found to vary but little from the average given. Skilled workmen from abroad are now frequently imported at conventional prices much higher than the foregoing. N. B. — Foreigners intending to employ native laborers %Te strongly advised to put them under the control of a 9 112 GENERAL IXFORMATIOX. "boss" who speaks the Spanish language, and who is familiar with their methods of work. The peons are amia- ble, and will generally give satisfaction with proper man- agement ; but they are exceedingly vindictive, and, if maltreated, will take vengeance on their oppressors at the first opportunity. XXXIV. Wines and Liquors. AccoRDiXG to Prescott, the Aztecs manufactured pulque, and were in the habit of becoming intoxicated by its use. This is the case with their posterity, the Mexicans of the present day. The great national beverages are the various kinds of pulque, mescal, or tequila, and aguardiente, or brandy. Pulque is the fermented sap of the maguey plant {Agave Americana), which is extracted from the heart as follows : The stem of the plant is cut short, and a deep incision is made into the heart of it. After removing the surround- ing leaves, the stalk is hollowed for several inches. The sap is gathered from this cavity two or three times daily, by means of an acocote. This instrument acts like a pi- pette. It consists of a long gourd, to each end of which a piece of sharp horn is attached. The peon inserts one end into the liquid, and, placing the other in his mouth, ex- tracts the sap by suction into the body of the gourd. The juice is emptied into a jar or skin, which is carried on the back, and then it is taken to the cellar and allowed to fer- ment. A single plant of maguey will generally yield eight cuartillos, or one gallon, of sap in a day. The juice when extracted is termed agua miel, or honey-water. WINES AND LIQUORS. 113 Pulque is of a milk-white appearance, and resembles beer slightly in taste. Mescal is also prepared from the maguey. The leaves are pressed in a mill, and the juice that runs out is distilled. Tequila is similar in taste. It is distilled from a small spe- Pulque Tlacliiquero, cies of maguey called the zotol, which grows largely in Ja- lisco, especially near the town of Tequila, whence its name. Both mescal and tequila are transparent liquids. Aguardiente is distilled chiejfly from sugar-cane juice, but it is sometimes made from the juice of the grape. Be- 114 GENERAL INFORMATION. sides these liquors, there are numerous otliers that the stranger rarely hears of except in the rural districts, such as charape, cliicha, joho, peyote, tecuin, tepache, tuha, etc. Pulque is made principal!}' in the States of Mexico, Hi- dalgo, and Tlaxcala. The center of population being in this part of ilexico, accounts for the immense cultivation of the mmjuey in these adjoining States. Mescal comes for the most part from Jalisco, Sinaloa, Puebla, Hidalgo, and Michoacan. Aguardiente is made chiefly in the sugar-growing States of Vera Cruz, Morelos, Michoacan, Jalisco, Mexico, Oaxaca, Yucatan, and Coa- huila. Pulque is usually transported from the haciendas in sheep-skins ; and mescal and aguardiente are carried in kegs. The liquors above mentioned, however, are not the only ones which Mexico produces. The soil of the country is adapted to the culture of all kinds of grapes. Red and white wines are manufactured in comparatively small quantities, most of the native wines coming from the States of Chihuahua and Coahuila. But nearly all the wine consumed in Central Mexico is imported from France and Spain by merchants in Vera Cruz. Eed wine is sold at from seventy-five cents to one dollar per quart bottle. A limited amount of beer is also produced. It is made chiefly in the States of Guanajuato, Jalisco, Vera Cruz, Puebla, and the Federal District. Much St. Louis (Mis- souri) beer is imported, and sold at the high price of three reales per bottle in the northern part and four re- ales in the southern part of Mexico. The cocoanut-wine comes for the most part from Michoacan, Yucatan, and Campeche. The following table, from Seuor Busto's Estadistica de la RepuUica Mexicana, shows the amount of wines and CIGARS AND TOBACCO. 115 liquors produced in the year 1879, together with their value : WINES AND LIQUORS. Pounds. Brandy from grapes J>iandy from sugai-cane {aguardiente). . Beer Jlescal of Tequila Common mescal Pulque " tlachique " . 1,169,467 42,498,737 22,128,999 19,835,200 11,336,080 168,146,213 Fine pulque i 220,468,880 Common pulque . White wine Red wine Wines and various liquors. Cocoanut-wine Total 526,349,903 23,124,360 4,866,859 7,765,380 4,717,361 290,367 Dolbrs. 114,453 2,052,1.50 768,703 1,176,000 570,646 323,232 3,935,995 330,301 1,154,196 1,508,475 941,021 34,341 12,909,513 XXXV. Cigars and Tobacco. SiiOKiXG is universal in the Eepublic. The Mexican .smokes at the theatre, in all public conveyances, in the shops, during meal-time, and even in church. Cigarettes {cigarrillos) are consumed in about the same quantity as cigars {puros). Mexicans when about to smoke will always otfer cigarettes to by-standers, whether they are acquainted or not, and the refusal to accept will generally give offense. The cigars made in the State of Vera Cruz are, perhaps, the finest in the country^ They are very cheap. Choice cigars can be purchased at six pesos a hundred. The brand known as La Giralda is mild and very popular. Owing to the low price of tobacco, even the poorer classes smoke im- moderately. The *'weed" is used by men, women, and children. Early Spanish historians tell us that tobacco, called 116 GENERAL INFORMATION. pycietl by the ancient Mexicans, was known to them before the Conquest. They Avere in the habit of smoking pipes and taking snuff. The Government derives a large rev- enue from the sale of tobacco. Mexico consumes about $18,000,000 worth of it annually. Tobacco is not exported in considerable quantities, but Mexican cigars are generally found in New York and a few of the larger cities of the United States. ( Vide chapter on agriculture for an account of the tobacco-culture.) XXXVI. Manufactures. When the Spaniards invaded Mexico, in 1519, they found the Aztecs possessed manufactures of considerable merit. The latter wore escaupil — a kind of armor made of quilted cotton, thick enough to be impenetrable to the light missiles of aboriginal warfare. The wealthier chiefs, how- ever, sometimes donned a cuirass made of thin plates of gold or silver, and wooden helmets. Soon after his arrival at Vera Cruz, Cortes sent cotton fabrics as presents to the Emperor Charles V. Historians tell us that cotton was perhaps grown, but certainly manu- factured, in Mexico as early as in any other civilized coun- try. The Spanish chroniclers of the time state, that the Aztecs made large webs as fine and delicate as those of Hol- land ; that they wore cloths of different figures and colors, representing various animals and flowers ; that feathers oftentimes made a part of the texture ; that they manufac- tured mantles, gowns, and bed-curtains ; and that a hand- some cloth was also manufactured by taking the finest hair of the rabbit and spinning it into thread, after which it was interwoven with cotton. MANUFA CTURES. 1 17 The oldest cotton-factories are to be found in the city of Texcoco. The Aztecs were familiar with the art of reducing silver, lead, copper, and tin. The process was, however, easy and simple. They formed an alloy of the two last-named metals, and wrought tools of bronze. With these imple- ments they were able to cut not only metals, but, with the aid of fine sand, the hardest substances — as basalt, porphy- ry, amethysts, and emeralds {vide Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, pp. 138, 139). Besides making textile fabrics, working in metals, and hewing stone, the ancient Mexicans molded pottery on a large scale, and manufactured from the maguey {Agave America?ia) a variety of articles, such as paper, thread, and cords from the leaves (which were also used to thatch roofs), pins and needles from the thorns, and pulque from the fer- mented juice of the stem. Owing to the restrictions imposed by the Government, manufactures did not thrive during the rule of the viceroys. Still, the cotton and woolen factories were preserved, the metals were reduced from the ores, and soap, wax, sugar, pottery, p^dque, and a few other articles were produced. The frequent revolutions and the instability of the Federal Government since the War of Independence have greatly retarded manufacturing industry. Fuel being exceedingly scarce, steam is even now rarely used in the factories and reducing- works ; but water-, mule-, and man-power are gen- erally employed. In his long tour through the Eepublic in the winter and spring of 1883, the author noticed only one sugar-mill, one silver-reducing-mill, two cotton-factories, and a flour-mill, that were run by steam. In the latter case an aqueduct was in course of construction to conduct water to the mill as a motive power. On account of the configu- ration of Mexico, there is abundant water-power just below the border of the tierra fria and in some parts of the great 118 GENERAL INFORMATION. pluteau. Few things, comparatively, are manufactured at tlie present day. The establishment of industrial schools, however, in the cities of Guadalajara, Mexico, Puebla, and Orizaba, and recent industrial expositions in these cities, have given an impetus to domestic industry. The Her- cules cotton-mill at Queretaro furnishes employment to 1,400 operatives (for description, see Section V). It is by far the largest mill in Mexico. A few others have been erected by French and German capitalists in the central part of the Kepublic. A company has recently been organized at Mapimi, in the State of Durango, to manufacture cotton goods at a place known as OJo de Agua. The region affords fine water- power, and the factory will be started with forty looms. Small tread-mills are used extensively in making woolen cloths and blankets or zarapes. There are a few small silk-factories. Although the data are wanting to give an accurate list of all the manufactures of Mexico, together with their amount and value, we will take the following figures from Seiior Busto's great work on Mexican statistics : The niTm- ber of factories in Mexico is 99 ; their value in machinery, $4,690,776 ; and in buildings, $4,816,999— making a total of $9,507,775. They contain 258,458 spindles and 9,214 looms. Their annual consumption of cotton amounts to 258,962 quintals,* and of wool to 59,240 arrohas. f The number of operatives employed is 12,346. The manufactures of the country may be concisely stated as follows : Cotton and woolen goods ; hats of straw and felt ; leather- work of every kind ; soap ; J wax, either in the form of candles, matches, or ex votos ; silk ; glass ; fur- niture ; pottery; marble-work; rope; palm-leaf work of all kinds, as matting, baskets, brooms, brushes, etc. ; a few * 29,003,'744 pounds. f 1,481,000 pounds. X Much soap is made in Guadalajara, Puebla, and Mexico. NATIVE PRODUCTIONS. 119 kinds of paper ; * diligences and carts ; flour ; sugar ; choc- olate ; indigo ; tiles ; and adobe, or sun-dried brick ; also Avine and liquors, which ai'e described in a separate chapter {vide p. 115). N. B. — None of these articles are exported to any ex- tent. XXXVII. Native Productions. This chapter is designed to supplement the preceding one on manufactures. The Indians of to-day make various articles that were in common use among their Aztec an- cestors. The plumaje, or feather-work, which is sold in the shops at the capital, resembles that made in Montezuma's time ; but, instead of being interwoven with a cotton web, the feathers are put together in various forms and attached to a card-board. Different varieties of artificial birds are constructed in this manner, the gorgeous colors of the jDarrot tribe and the delicate down of the humming-bird affording excellent material for a beautiful model. Some of these birds are of life-size, but most of them are on a reduced scale. The modern Mexicans do not make knives, razors, and serrated swords of itztli, or obsidian, but the tourist may find frag- ments of this material on sale in the portales of the City of Mexico. Pottery is manufactured on a large scale [vide preced- ing chapter). It comes mostly from Guadalajara, Urua- pan, and Zintzuntlan, The Guadalajara ware is glazed and variegated in color. It is molded into all kinds of figures, many of which are artistic in design, and illustrate the national costumes. Aztec pottery is now very scarce. * There was no paper-factory up to 1803. 120 GENERAL INFORMATION: Numerous imitations are made, however, and travelers are cautioned against paying high prices for the spurious arti- cle. Rag figures dressed in Mexican costumes are sold ex- tensively by the Indians. All kinds of baskets composed of gayly-colored fragments of the palm-leaf are cheap and abundant. The zarapes are described in the chapter on costumes. Every variety of leather-ware is made in the country. Besides leathern clothing and foot-gear, bridles, saddles, whips, etc., are manufactured, which are often- times of exquisite workmanship. The author saw a silver- mounted saddle belonging to a wealthy young Tiacendado that was valued at $1,000. It weighed forty pounds. The Mexican onyx, or tecali, is wrought into paper-weights and small vases, and even into mantel-pieces. The pale-green variety of this stone is very beautiful. Tourists are recom- mended to purchase ornaments of tecali either at Puebla or at the capital. Choice embroidery {bordado) is made in Mexico. This work is done on velvet, silk, cloth, or muslin. Gold and silver thread is commonly used to embroider velvet and silk. The vestments of the priests are trimmed in this manner {vide chapter on the Church). Felt hats are usu- ally adorned with silver thread. The mo&t beautiful piece of native needle-work on exhibition is found on the throne of the Sala de Emhajadores, at the National Palace in the capital. It consists of the Mexican coat-of-arms embroid- ered with gold thread on dark velvet. Ladies wishing to purchase ornamental specimens of needle-work should have them made to order, as Mexican shopkeepers rarely have choice embroidery in stock. There is no fixed price for this class of work ; accordingly, stran- gers are advised to bargain with the dealers. Owing to the small number of artists, paintings which delineate Mexican scenery or costumes are seldom offered for sale. Photographs of the places of interest, both in JEWELRY. 121 town and country, and also of the national dress, may be purchased in all the large cities. XXXVIII. Jewelry. Mexican Jewelry has justly acquired a world-wide fame. When the Spaniards invaded the country, they acknowledged that the gold and silver-smiths of the Aztec Empire excelled those of their own land. The precious metals were used in casting vessels, some of which were said to have been so large that a man could not encircle them with his arms. Gems like opal, turquoise or clialcMliuUl, ruby, agate, heliotrope, and chalcedony, were mounted in gold ; and artistic filigree- work in both gold and silver was made extensively. According to the accounts of the early Spanish chroni- clers, the ornaments worn by Montezuma must have been equal in elegance to many of the crown-Jewels of the impe- rial families of Europe. At the present day the traveler will not meet with any large specimens of silver-ware, excepting the exquisite service of Maximilian, which is on exhibition in the mu- seum at the national capital. The modern Jewelers confine themselves principally to the manufacture of watches, chains, necklaces, brooches, pins, buttons, and other articles for personal adornment. The filigree-work in silver is worn extensively, but that of gold is seldom used. Chapetas, or silver studs for hats, are made in large quantities. They are in the form of stirrups, revolvers, ropes, horse-heads, bull-heads, spurs, and other figures. These cliap&tas are fastened on either side of the crown 122 GENERAL INFORMATIOK (see cuapier on costumes). Silver ornaments are sold at ii low price, and they make handsome jiresents for tourists to purchase. The smallest and cheapest figures are ex votos in the shape of arms and legs. XXXIX. Theatres. Theatres may be found in all cities and towns of the country. The Mexican has inherited from the Spaniard his love for the drama. Many of the plays put upon the stage are translated from the French, the number of native dramatists being very small. Many traveling operatic and theatrical companies visit Mexico in the winter season. The ojjera-bouffe is given every year. Sunday night is the most popular time to go to the theatre. The prices of admission are lower than in the United States. A seat in the parquet, or patio, gener- ally costs one peso. Smoking is allowed there. Ladies wishing to visit the theatres should procure tickets in a box or lofa. They are plain edifices, with little interior decoration, and are commonly built with an ellip- tical auditorium, which has several tiers of boxes ranged one directly above the other, reminding the traveler of La Scala at Milan. XL. Music. The Mexican people are very fond of music. There are excellent military bands in all the cities and garrisoned towns, where a pagoda is generally erected in the main plaza. They usually play three evenings in the week. MUSIC. 123 when the "swell" population turns out to enjoy the music. Travelers will find pianos all over the country, even in towns 500 miles distant from a seaport or railway termi- nus. Violins and guitars are also used, the latter being common among the Indians and mestizos. AVandering street musicians are rare. There is not much original Mexican music ; the national hymn, consisting of ten verses, being the best known. It was written by Bocanegra, and set to music by Nuno. The following is a metrical translation of the chorus and first two verses of the national hymn of Mexico : * CnOETJS. Mexicans, haste to fight and bleed ! Make ready sword and bridled steed ; Let the earth tremble to its core, Exulting in the cannon's roar. First Stanza. Oh, may the olive-branch of peace, Dear Fatherland, wave over thee ; For writ in heaven, by God's own hand, Is thine eternal destiny. And if the foe, with foot profane, Invade thy soil, O sacred land ! Each son of thine, a soldier born, The fierce invasions shall withstand. Second Stanza. Behold them plunged in bloody strife ; The love which animates each heart Impels them on to give their life, And e'er count death the better part. The former exploits of thy sons, O Fatherland, remember now, And once again immortal crowns Of laurel shall adorn thy brow. * Arranged for the author by E. E. J. 124 GENERAL INFORMATIOX. The singing in tlie churches is of a high order, and the choir-boys have exquisite alto voices. XLI. Dances. Mexicans are likewise passionately fond of dancing., Public balls (bailes) are frequent all over the Republic. In the capital they are held on Sunday nights, while in the smaller cities Saturday is the more common evening for them. Private balls are given by subscription in the prin- cipal cities, to which tourists may obtain invitations through some banker or merchant. It is rare to have a tertulia, or evening-party, without dancing. XLII. Festivals. The festivals of Mexico were formerly of a religious character, but since 1856 they partake of a political nature. The following is a list of the principal days on wliich the national flag is displayed : February 5. Anniversary of the Constitution of 1857. February 22. Birth of Washington. March 14. Santo of the King of Italy. March 21. Birth of Benito Juarez. April 1. Opening of the session of Congress. May 5. Anniversary of the defeat of the French at Puebla. May 8. Birth of the Curate Hidalgo. May 15. Capture of Queretaro in 1867. May 31. Close of the session of Congress. * Santo means the anniversary of the birthday of the saint after whom the king is named. BULL-FIGHTS. 125 June 21. Capture of Mexico in 1867. June 30. Anniversary of the reformation in Guatemala. July 4. Independence of the United States. July 18. Anniversary of the death of Juarez. July 20. Independence of Colombia. July 28. IndeiJendence of Peru. July 30. Death of the Curate Hidalgo. ' September 15. Independence of Guatemala. September 16. Independence of Mexico. November 15. Santo of the King of the Belgians. XLIII. Bull-fights. The bull-fight, ov funcion de toros, is the rxaiioudl fiesta of Mexico, and is one of the objectionable legacies of the Spaniards. Bull-fights take place on Sunday afternoons. The best performances are at Huisachal, a suburb of the capital. They are forbidden by law within the city limits. There are bull-rings [plazas de toros) in all cities and towns. Several of the larger cities have two. The rings in Mexico are commonly of wood,* and are built in the form of an amphitheatre. The seats are classified into those in the shade (sombra) and those in the sun (sol). The former are, of course, preferable, and cost more than the latter. Most of the bull-fighters are Mexicans, but at the present time (1883) a famous Spanish maestro, named Bl Chiclanero, is " starring " in the Republic. Bull-fighters, or toreadores, are agile men, of rather slender build, and do not usually exceed the medium height. They seldom possess great phys- ical strength, but are expert jumpers. They are divided * The Spanish bullrings arc made of brick or stone. 126 GENERAL INFORMATION. into four classes : the espadas, or matadores, who kill the bull with a sword ; the banderilleros, wlio thrust barbed darts into his neck ; the joicadores, who ride jaded Rosinante- hacks, and strike the animal with their lances ; and the chulos and cajxis, who tease hira with gayly-colored cloths, and assist the toreadores generally. The bull enters the arena at the sound of a trumpet, and is in turn attacked by the above-named classes of fighters. When the persecuted beast falls from exhaustion and loss of blood, he is killed by the caclietero, who thrusts a small dagger into the nape of the neck, just above the spinal column. The body is then dragged out of the ring by a trio of mules, amid the deafening yells of the crowd, the band playing at the time. The carcass is sold to the butcher. Unlike the ftmciones of Spain, the horses are protected with huge leather covers, and the tips of the bull's horns are sometimes sawed off. XLIV. Cock-fights. Cock-fights, or peleas de gallos, take place all over the country. The cock-pits are light pyramidal structures that are made of wood, with a thatched roof, and open at the base. Cock-fighters, or galleros, are frequently seen in the streets, each carrying a game-cock, with a string tied to its leg. Sunday afternoon is the favorite time for cock- fighting. Occasionally the inhabitants of rival towns will have a match, when representatives of each will send picked game- cocks to engage in the fight. The event is announced, weeks beforehand, by gaudy bills posted on the sides of the public buildings. COSTUMES. 127 It may be remarked that cock-fights are likewise com- mon in the Territory of New Mexico, although bull-fights are unknown. The most popular season for cock- and bull- fighting is during Lent. XLV. Costumes. The upper classes, especially the Government officials, in Mexico, have recently discarded the national costume, and now wear the European dress. Black coats and silk hats are as commonly seen on the Plaza mayor of the City of Mexico as on Broadway or Fifth Avenue. There is a great variety of costumes, however, among the country gentlemen, and among both sexes in the lower classes. The Mexican hat, or sombrero, is the most promi- nent part of the national dress. It is either of felt or straw, and has a very wide brim. When made of the for- mer material, the color varies from light gray to brown and black. The crown is trimmed with a silver band, and the brim is oftentimes heavily embroidered with silver thread. The cords around the crown are either single, double, or quadruple, and small silver ornaments called cliapetas are attached to both sides of it. Straw hats are generally pro- vided with puffed bands of the same material, and occa- sionally silver cords are worn on them. The peasantry wear plain straw hats and white cotton shirts and trousers. Cloaks of water-flags or palm-leaf strips are used by the Indians. They are impervious to the rain. A zarape,* or blanket woven either of woolen goods or of both wool and cotton, is worn in the early morning and in the evening. An infinite variety of patterns may be seen in these zarapes. Stripes of various shades of red, yellow, * Somttimes spelled serape. 128 GENERAL IXFORMATION. and brown, are the prevailing colors. Unlike the poncJios and mangas of Spain, the zarapes are thrown over the shoulder, instead of inserting the head through a hole or slit in the middle. However, some of the latter style of blankets are worn, especially by diligence-drivers and don- key-boys. Stage-coachmen also Avear leggings embossed with large nail-heads. Huarachcs, or leathern sandals, fastened with straps over the instep and across the ball of the foot, take the place of boots or shoes among the lower classes. The usual style of dress among the peasant-women con- sists of a white waist and skirt, with a blue scarf or shawl (rehozo). These simple colors remind the traveler of those adopted by Murillo in his paintings of the Virgin. Straw hats, like those worn b}^ the poorer class of men, are donned by the women. The ladies in cities are generally dressed in plain black, and without a bonnet. They carry black silk parasols and black fans. The mantilla is now generally disused. Since 1881 young ladies, especially in the City of Mexico, have begun wearing hats of foreign make and dresses of various colors.* The Tiacendados and country gentlemen usually wear suits of black cloth, consisting of a short jacket with silver buttons, a waistcoat cut low, and pantaloons opening on the outside of the leg, with two rows of fancy silver but- tons along the outer seam. A faja, or sash, which is com- monly of a red color, is added to the costume, and the boots are made with high heels. This dress is worn in the tierra fria, and in the upper part of the tierra templada. In the tierra caliente the gentry wear plain white cotton suits with sombreros of felt or straw. In riding through * The American consul at the capital informed the author that, in 1880, his wife was compelled to send to the United States for a bonnet, being unable to purchase one in the City of Mexico. LOTTERIES.— STORES. 129 the undei'brush, cliaparraUros, or loose leathern trousers, are worn over the ordinary pantaloons. Except in the large cities, swords or maclietes are usually attached, to the saddle-bow. XLVI. Lotteries. FoLLOWiN'G the example of Spain, lotteries were intro- duced into Mexico many years ago, and are now an impor- tant source of revenue. Lottery-tickets are sold in all the cities by men, women, and children. They are found, on '(k\& portales of the plazas, at the doors of hotels and. cafes, and. on the street corners. The Government receipts from lotteries were : In 1880-'81 $32,856. In 1881-'82 60,000. In 1882-'83 800,000, XLYII. Stores. AccoEDiiS'G to Prescott, there were no shops in the Aztec Empire. Goods and. wares were sold in the market- place. Fairs were held at short intervals, and the mer- chants were itinerant traders. Under the Spanish domina- tion, the system was greatly modified. With the impor- tation of merchandise from the mother-country came the gi'adual introduction of shops. They have undergone a great change since 1870, The shops usually have fanciful names, such as ''The City of Paris," "The Azure Boot," **The Red Gown," etc. While household ornaments, books, hardware, crockery. 130 GENERAL INFORMATION. leather- work, and a few other articles, were formerly on sale in considerable quantities, wearing-apparel suitable for Europeans was almost unknown. A new era of trade has dawned upon the Republic since the introduction of Ameri- can railroad enterprise. The foreign resident need no longer send to New York, London, or Paris for luxuries and fashions. All kinds of clothing can now be made at short notice ; and preserves, canned goods, hams, wines, confectionery, and other articles which the European re- quires, are found in the shops. The finest mercantile establishments are in the cities of Puebla and Mexico. French is spoken in many of them. The shops on the Calle de San Francisco, on the Plateros, and on the Plaza mayor in the capital, are commodious, and contain a fine assortment of goods. Some of the clerks speak English, Strangers are charged exorbitant prices, so it is advisable to marchander with the salesmen. XLVIII. Pawnbroker-Shops. These institutions are controlled by the Government, and exist in all the cities of Mexico. They are termed monte de piedad, or montepio. There is a large monte de piedad in Puebla, and a cen- tral office with several branches at the capital. The arti- cles deposited as security for loans in the pawnbroker-shops are chiefly wearing-apparel, leather-work, jewelry, and fire-arms. The Government officers set a price on goods forfeited to the montejno. If they are not sold within a few weeks, a second price is fixed. Should the articles fail to find a purchaser at the reduced valuation, they are ap- praised again. They are then kept for an indefinite period, till the third price is paid. TEE CHURCH. 131 Travelers can occasionally find rare and valuable objects at these shops. The bills of the national monte de piedad circulate at par throughout the country. XLIX. The Church. Up to the year 1859 one third of all the real and per- sonal property in Mexico was owned by the Church. Many of the finest buildings, as well as large tracts of land in the heart of the large cities, belonged to the clergy. The bishops' palaces at Puebla and at the capital con- tain so many deeds, leases, etc., that they remind one of a county clerk's office, rather than the residence of a high ecclesiastical dignitary. All churches and convents in Mexico are built of the most costly materials and in the most substantial manner. Lofty towers are usually added to the churches, and their facades are oftentimes exquisitely carved. (See chapter on architecture.) The interior decorations, paintings, fur- niture, and the services, are artistic in character. They were imported from Europe and transported by wagons for distances varying from one hundred to six hundred miles at great expense. The high altars as well as the stalls of the choir are beautifully carved, the former being usually gilded. Large organs are found in the cathedrals and principal churches, and occasionally the same building will have two of them on opposite sides of the choir. In the Morelia * and Guada- lupe cathedrals, there are silver railings around the edge of the high altar and leading thence to the choir. Many of * The silver railing at Morelia was removed by the Liberal party during the Reformation, 132 GENERAL INEORMATIOK the doors in the tabernacles are made of silver. The beau- tiful tecali, or so-called Mexican onyx, is used extensively for altars and fonts. ( Vide chapter on Morelia, in Section IV.) Most of the cliurches are furnished with wooden settees. Prie-dieux are unknown. A large number of the churches are rapidly falling into decay, and many of them are now used for business pur- poses, e. g., barracks, warehouses, marble-works, etc. Dur- ing his extensive tour through Mexico, in the winter and spring of 1883, the author saw but a single instance of a church undergoing repairs, viz., on the plaza of Inda- parapeo in Michoacan. Several of the convents adjoining the churches are at present in ruins, while others have not been occupied for years, and some of them are now altered into hotels, as at Zacatecas and Monterey. These institutions are crowded together into the cities and towns, none being found in the rural districts as in Europe. ( Vide chapter on population. ) It is a universal custom to hang ex votos on the walls of the churches. They are either made of silver or wax, or consist of small paintings of the Virgin Mary. Various notices invoking pater-nosters, or aves, for the repose of the souls of departed friends, or soliciting alms for certain purposes, are printed on paper of several colors and posted on the main door of the churches. Eeligious tracts, and ribbons giving the size of the head of some par- ticular saint, are sold at the entrance to many of the cathe- drals and chapels, especially during the lenten season. A typical church-scene in Mexico is a number of men clothed in white-cotton garments, with zarapes of variegat- ed colors on their shoulders, with broad-brimmed straw hats in their hands, and wearing Jiuaraches, or leathern sandals, kneeling on a stone floor in company with women and girls, who are dressed in calico and wear a black shawl over the head and shoulders. TEE CEURCE. 133 The vestments worn by the priesthood while celebrating high mass are very costly, and consist of silken robes heav- ily embroidered with gold and silver thread. When a}3pear- ing in the street the priests usually wear the ordinary cloth gown and cloak. It is, however, forbidden by law in some parts of the country, e. g., in the Federal District, for the clergy to walk the streets in the garb of their order. As regards the power of the Church in Mexico at the present day, it may be said that it is almost entirely lost, except in a few States like Michoacan. The politicians, however, make extravagant promises to the clergy, in the hope of securing their good graces in the elections. In the northern States the priesthood are becoming less influential from day to day. Flag-staffs have been erected on the fagades of the prin- cipal churches, from which the national colors are dis- played. In the City of Mexico the ringing of bells is re- stricted by statute to the period of three minutes at one time ; and the space of one half hour must elapse before they can be again sounded. The hold of the Catholic clergy on the Mexican people is confined principally to the laboring classes. It is a com- mon saying that, when a peon earns two dollars, he gives one dollar and forty-five cents to the priest, spends fifty cents for pulque, and supports his family on the remainder. Among the more highly educated classes, the men are indifferent to religion, and oftentimes refuse to allow their wives and daughters to visit the confessional. They charge that the priest learns the pecuniary condition of the pater- familias through the female members of the household. In 1882 the clergy in the Republic were estimated to num- ber ten thousand. Notwithstanding the comparatively long period in which the Liberals have been in power in Mexico, the hostility between the Catholics and Protestants is as intense as ever. 134 GENERAL INFORMATION. The priests still threaten to excommunicate peons vho work on buildings or farms owned by the Protestants. Since 1870 the Liberal Government has favored the establishment of Protestant churches throughout the country. During the administration of President Juarez a fine parish church was presented to the Protestants in the national capital. Their missions have since been founded in Puebla, Cuer- navaca, Zacatecas, Monterey, and many other cities. As recently as December, 1882, a collision took place between the Roman Catholics and Protestants at Zacatecas. The former attempted to demolish a chapel which was owned by the latter, when the military came to the rescue and dispersed the rioters with bloodshed. The State gov- ernments are generally disposed to protect the Protestants, and accordingly offer convict-labor to complete their houses of worship, when the peons can not be employed.* In Chihuahua the Americans now attend divine service at the residence of the pastor, the Eev. Mr. Eaton. N. B. — Foreigners, intending to engage in either min- ing or farming in Mexico, are strongly advised to concili- ate the padre, as he is usually the most influential person in small towns and villages. Considering the influence of the clergy on the lower classes, discourteous treatment of the priest may result in the refusal of the peons to work for the offending individual. Jurisprudence. The Eoman law prevails in Mexico, and a code, based upon the Code Napoleon, has been adopted. There is a written Constitution and a system of statutes * The chapel at Zacatecas was rebuilt by convicts. JURISPRUDENCE. 135 for the Eepublic. Each State has also its own laws, which are administered independently of those of the Federal Government. Trial by jury occurs in criminal cases only. Felonies are punished by long terms of imprisonment, while the penalty for misdemeanors is generally a fine ranging from twenty-five cents to several hundred dollars. The former amount is the equivalent of one day's wages for certain classes of laborers. Of late years, the authorities have ordered a great many brigands to be shot without a trial. In the State of Zaca- tecas, two hundred persons, who were known to be bandits, are said to have been killed in a single year. Life and property are now as safe in Mexico as in the United States. Europeans residing in Mexico complain of the system of keeping prisoners in close confinement for a long period ivitliout a trial. The prisons are damp and unhealthy, and the fare is of the worst quality. The rules of practice for filing documents in the public offices are different from those of the United States. Ori- ginal wills, deeds, mortgages, etc., must be recorded in blank books and deposited in the proper office. These are provided by the municipal government. None but inter- ested persons can obtain copies of them. Deeds and other instruments executed as far back as the year 1540 are on file in the register's office of a few cities. All deeds, leases, contracts, etc., must be executed be- fore a notary {escribano puhlico). Stamps must be affixed to all kinds of instruments, and a rubrica, or dash of the pen, must be added to a signature to make it legal. At present aliens can take real estate by deed and de- vise, but they can not own land within twenty leagues of the frontier line, or less than fifteen miles from the coast, except by special permission of the Executive. 13(3 GENERAL IXFORMATIOy. ''Any foreigner who desires permission to own real estate within the above-mentioned limits, must address his petition to the Secre- tary of Public Works at the City of Mexico, accompanied by a report from the government of the State or Territory where the property is situated. '' The foreign proprietor of real estate forfeits his rights of pos- session under any of the following circumstances : '' 1st. By being away from the Republic with his family for more than two years without permission from the General Govern- ment. " 2d. By residing outside of the Republic, even though he has a representative residing upon his property or in the Republic. " 3d. By transferring or conveying said property by inherit- ance or any other means to any person non-resident in the Re- public. " Any foreign property-owner, who may fall into any of tlie three conditions above stipulated, is compelled to sell his real estate to a Mexican citizen, within two years from the date of his absence from the Republic ; or, in case he fails to comply with this pre- scription, the public authority will eflfect the sale of the property, depositing the proceeds of it to the order of the ow^ner of the property. If said sale has been made by ' denouncement ' of the property, one tenth of the proceeds shall go to the person who made the 'denouncement' and the balance to the absent for- eigner. . . . Aliens who are members of a mining company that has either discovered or reopened any abandoned mine are exempt from these rules. " Foreigners who have acquired i-eal estate from private owners, or the Government of Mexico, are subject to all kinds of taxation, and are bound to do military duty whenever called upon to protect the property they have acquired, or preserve public order and tran- quillity in the place where they reside, and are bound to take part in the elucidation of all questions that may arise in regard to said property, according to the existing laws, and before the tribunals of Mexico, without ever appealing to their rights of foreign citizenship, or to any intervention from a foreign power." " Grantees cf public lands are compelled to locate on their grant EDUCATION. 137 at least one inl)abitant for every two hundred hectares,* who shall reside thereon without interruption during ten years, not being ab- sent more th an /b?<;' months during each year. In failing to comply with this clause of the law, they will forfeit their right to the land, as well as the price paid for it. " Any person enabled to hold property by 'denouncement' of public lands can not obtain more than 2,500 hectares,! by virtue of the law of limitation, until he has had possest-ion of the land for ten years, and has complied with the other requisites of law, and those prescribed in the above clause." These extracts from the laws of Mexico are taken from Castro's Republic of Mexico, pp. 188-190. Lawyers who have taken a degree are termed licencia- dos. The leading counselors of the principal cities can gen- erally speak English. Very few foreigners have thus far begun the practice of law in the Eepublic. Excepting the Supreme Court at the capital {Suprema Corte), the court- rooms are open to the public. The judges sit from 9 to 12 A. M., and from 3 to 5 p. m. The jurisdiction of the inferior tribunals [juzgados) resembles that of the county courts of the United States. For further information on the laws of Mexico, con- sult the following Spanish works : El Protocolo, El Co- digo, El Nuevo Escrihano Instruido,. Las Ordenanzas de Tierras y Agtias, and Las Ordenanzas de Mineria. The latter consists of mining laws. LI. Education. UxFORTUXATELT, a small portion only of the Mexi- can people are able to read and write. The number of * 494} acres. f 6,177^ acres. 138 GENERAL INFORMATION. illiterate persons can only be estimated, as there are no accurate census returns. AVe are of the opinion that it amounts to 0,500,000, or about two thirds of the entire population. Colleges {colegios) hare been established in the principal cities for many years. There are schools of the arts, of law, of medicine, and of science. The Colegio de Mineria, or mining school, in the capital, was founded about the close of the last century. (See chapter on the City of Mexico in Part Second.) The traveler should not, however, be misled by this term '^colegio" It is often used in the rural districts as synonymous with " school," very much as it used to be in the Western States of the Union. Soon after the French invasion, a common-school system similar to that of the United States was introduced into Mexico. The English language is now generally taught, and even many business men are studying it with a private tutor, A few industrial schools have been established in the larger cities. Mexican children are said to be very docile pupils, and in the hands of good instructors they learn readily. Among the wealthier families, it is common for parents to send their sons abroad to be educated, as to New York, London, or Paris ; and a few Mexican students may be found in the universities and mining schools of Germany. Young women and girls attend only the parochial schools of the country, and the higher education is unknown among them. The completion of the American trunk-lines of rail- road may tend to increase the number of young men who go to the United States annually to "finish" their educa- tion. The following table is taken from Castro's Repiihlic of Mexico, p. 200. It shows the number of public schools in the States and the Territory of Lower California, and the cost of their maintenance for the year 1880 : NEWSPAPERS. 139 STATES. 1 1 1 11 1 •a s f :5 a .2 1 . 1 ° -A =3 a, a 5 ■< " •53 4a 70 IS 78 73 95 176 892 442 439 887 154 47 181 234 889 101 183 238 80 48 176 60 580 163 311 17 26 14 80 17 12 40 30 145 23 76 275 181 89 40 104 47 118 62 56 42 25 17 18 i49 89 178 9 79 57 100 85 90 113 125 321 420 518 714 1.068 243 87 285 281 1,007 163 239 280 105 65 194 60 729 202 489 26 4,800 3,600 5,230 1.452 2,125 3,350 3,102 10,754 13,006 15,819 28,376 41,321 7,000 8,209 8.928 16,420 50,320 6,271 9.4&6 6,600 8.500 2,695 8,100 4,000 20,021 8,659 13,738 677 1,200 700 2,127 1,502 500 928 1,850 7,045 1,755 3,371 11,160 10,245 3.200 5,387 4.782 8,296 15,000 2,922 8,690 2,600 740 525 1,550 5,937 2,643 6,653 367 6,000 4.300 7,357 2,954 2.625 4,278 4.452 17,799 14,761 19,190 89,536 51,566 10.200 13:596 18,660 19,716 65,820 9,193 13,176 9,200 4,240 8,220 9,650 4,000 25,958 11,302 20,391 1,044 *10,000 15,000 26,000 18,(100 io,oao 28,473 20,000 81,886 84.965 10 Hidalgo 82,287 100,000 187,216 52,756 22,866 68,000 50,982 17. Puebla 158,000 80,000 40,000 20 Sinaloa 68,000 20,000 22 Tabasco 20.000 20,000 10.000 218,935 50,000 72,000 Ter'y of Lower California. . 10,000 Total 6,228 1,867 8,095 807,559 101,125 408,684 1,510,446 LII. newspapers. About sixty newspapers are published iii Mexico. Most of them are printed in Spanish, and some are in French and in English. In the City of Mexico there are several daily papers in Spanish and two in French. The Monitor Re- ptiiUcano, which has an edition of about seven thousand copies, is said to have the largest circulation, while that of many of the other newspapers does not exceed five hundred. One semi-weekly English pajoer, The Two Re- publics, and one weekly journal half in Spanish and half 140 GENERAL INFORMATION. in English, The Financier, are also published at the na- tional capital. A few American newspapers may be found in Chihuahua. All of them devote a large space to adver- tisements. Under the administration of Santa Anna began the subsidy of the press. Subventions are now given to papers that can not be jDublished except at a loss. Formerly a special jury took cognizance of the offenses of the press, but a constitutional amendment passed in 1883 brings these offenses under the jurisdiction of the or- dinary courts. LIII. Miscellaneous. Americaist consuls or vice-consuls reside at the follow- ing towns : Acapulco, Batopilas, Camargo, Campeche, Chihuahua, Guadalupe y Calvo, Guaymas, Guerrero, La Paz, Manzanillo, Matamoros, Mazatlan, Merida and Sisal, Mexico, Minatit- lan, Monterey, Musquiz, Nuevo Laredo, Paso del Norte, Piedras Negras, Progreso, Saltillo, San Bias, San Jose, San Luis Potosi, Tampico, Tuxpan, Vera Cruz, and Za- catecas. There are no English consuls, but the British Govern- ment employs private agents. Doctors intending to practice in the Mexican Republic should learn at least one language besides Spanish, i. e., either French or German. Reliable interpreters can be found in the principal cities only. The value of real estate is increasing in the large cities. The landlords are unwilling to sell unless at an exorbitant price ; accordingly, foreigners intending to engage in trade MISCELLANEOUS. 141 or manufacturing will do well to lease property for long terms, instead^of jiurcbasing it. In 1881 tlie value of city property was $169,684,376 52 And that of rural property was 181,873,994 04 Total $351,558,370 56 Americans are gradually introducing their inventions into Mexico. The Government, being anxious to establish and encourage home manufactures, has already issued many patents to citizens of the United States for new machines and improved methods of utilizing the various products of the soil of Mexico, which have hitherto been neglected for lack of knowledge and skillful treatment. The rules for soliciting patents are as follow : A patent of introduction is obtained by petition to the Govei-nment and act of Congress. The duration of the patent is limited by the concession granted by Congress. The usual period is ten years, and that of the im- provement to a patent is six years. The Government will not inquire into the usefulness of any invention. Extensions are only given by Congress. The documents, which must be in Spanish, are: 1. Petition (solicitud); and 2. Description or explanation of the subject of the patent, together with designs or models in duplicate. _ The fees will be from ten to three hundred dollars. Upon issuing a patent, the Goveiniment will return the extra copy of the descriptions, designs, or models which accompany the petition. A cony of the law will be sent with every patent when issued. N. B. — Inventors can procure the names of responsible parties to intro- duce their inventions by writing to any of the consuls mentioned at the head of this chapter. BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES. Capital may be advantageously invested in Mexico as follows : 1. In cattle and sheep ranches. 3. In water companies for irrigation. 3. In the manufacture of paper. (There are but three or four kinds of paper made in Mexico. Nearly all the white paper is imported.) 4. In woolen and cotton mills. U2 GENERAL IXFORMATION. 5. In the manufacture of hardware and machinery. (The duty on liardware is enormous.) 6. In tlie improvement of harbors and the construction of wharves. (Many of the harbors might, at a small ex- pense, be rendered navigable for large vessels.) 7. In the organization of district-telegraph, telephone, and electric-light companies. (The former are unknown. There are a few of the others.) 8. In erecting hotels with all the modern conveniences. (First-class hotels are very rare.) 9. In the culture of sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, and fruit. 10. In ojiening the numerous wells of petroleum, and in refining the article. (Two refineries have just been erected in the State of Vera Cruz. Petroleum is destined to be a great source of wealth to Mexico. In 1882, 1,300,- 000 gallons were exported from New York to Vera Cruz. The country is capable of exporting this commodity to Europe, besides producing enough for home consumption.) We have omitted to name the mining of the various ores, as foreigners have invested largely in the Mexican mines. STANDARD BOOKS OX MEXICO. Clavigero, Storia Antica del Messico. Bernal Diaz, Historia de la Conquista. Sahagun, Historia Universal de Nueva Espana. Veytia, Historia Antigua de Mejico. Ilerrera, History of America. Solis, Conquest of Mexico. Kingsborough, Mexican Antiquities. Humboldt, Political Essay on Neio Spain. Humboldt, Atlas de la Xouvelle Espagne. Dupaix, Antiquites Mexicaines. Stephens, Incidents of Travel in Central America, CJiiapas, and Yucatan. WHAT MEXICO NEEDS. 143 Ward, Mexico hi 1827. Calderon de la Barca, Life in Mexico. Prescott, Conquest of Mexico. Chevalier, Mexico, Ancient and Modern. Wilson, Mexico and its Religion. Wilson, History of the Conquest of Mexico. Tempsky, Mitla, Adventures in Mexico, etc, Buxton, Adventures in Mexico. Bullock, Six Months in Mexico. Brantz-Mayer, Mexico, as it was and as it is. Haven, Our Next-Door Neighbor. Lucas- Alaman, Historia de 3Iejico. Zamacois, Historia de Mejico. The New American CyclopEedia, article on Mexico. LIV. What Mexico needs. That Mexico may assume an elevated rank in the fam- ily of nations, two conditions are necessary : first, the educa- tion and elevation of the mass of her population ; second, the development of her unequaled natural resources. According to an eminent American statesman and di- plomatist,* "of the ten millions of people in Mexico, fully three quarters are Indians, two thirds of whom can not read, nor ever had an ancestor that could, who never slept in a bed or wore a stocking, and who are accustomed to live at a less expense per day than a farm-horse would cost in any Ncav England State." Comprising a territorial area sixteen times greater in extent than that of the State of New York, every vari- ety of climate, and, consequently, every vegetable product 11 * The Hon. John Bigclow. 144 GENERAL IKFORMATION: which is found between the equator and the Arctic Circle, may be said to exist within her borders. Nor is this all. Besides having yielded one hall' of the existing stock of silver in the world, her mines are still believed to be the richest on the face of the globe. Her deposits of iron are unsurpassed in quantity and quality. To these are to be added every other metal which science has enumerated. How, then, shall the matchless vegetable and mineral resources of the Republic be developed ? That Northern enterprise, industry, and capital will become important fac- tors in the solution of the problem there is little room to doubt. The introduction of the most approved agricul- tural implements and j^rocesses, as well as of the most ap- proved methods of treating the ores, will, of course, increase many fold the productions in both departments of labor. Yet, under existing circumstances, such a result would be neither useful nor profitable. Indeed, without the open- ing of new fields of industry, and of new avenues for plac- ing the surplus products in the markets of the world, an increase of production might even prove disastrous. In his recent elaborate publication entitled Railways in Mexico, Senor Romero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, perti- nently remarks : "A year of good crops in Mexico is a real calamity in many of the agricultural districts, as the pro- duction in that year far exceeds the consumption of the immediate neighborhood ; and grain can not be sent to any distance on account of the high cost of transportation." Happily, the first and most essential step has already been taken to provide adequate means of transportation for all the surplus products of the country. The great lines of railway which are now rapidly approaching completion, together with those which have been begun under the auspices of General Grant, Mr. Gould, and other experi- enced railroad managers, connecting, as they do, with the roads of this country, will become an integral part of a WHAT MEXICO NEEDS. 145 system which is infinitely the grandest and most extensive in the world. Supplemented as these great avenues of trade and travel will be by innumerable turnpikes, which will form so many lateral tributaries, and for the construc- tion of which the face of the country aifords exceptional facilities, their influence will be felt throughout the length and breadth of the land. But what Mexico needs, far more than the expansion of her physical resources, is the elevation of the toiling millions of her people. This result can only be achieved by their education, not alone in the lessons of the schools, but in the various branches of skilled industry and in social prog- ress and enlightenment. Thus far almost the only step which has been taken toward the intellectual culture of the young has been to provide schools for the training of the children of Spanish blood. Surely it requires no argument, in our day, to prove that the facilities for acquiring at least the element- ary branches of education ought to be placed within the reach of every child, without reference to color, creed, or lineage. This accomplished, the proper steps ought to be, and doubtless will be, taken to vest the ownership of the soil in its cultivators. The present land-tenure is what might reasonably be expected from the history of the country. Three centuries and a half ago the Spanish adventurers wrested it by force from the natives, and they and their descendants, almost without exception, have held it by the strong arm of power ever since. Of all the lessons of history, none is more emphatic than that the ownership of the soil by its cultivators is essential to a successful and profitable agriculture. The history of France before the outbreak of the Eevolution in the year 1789, the history of the British Islands, that of Ireland in particular, and our own experience as a nation 146 GENERAL INFORMATION. during the existence of negro slavery, are all full of instruc- tion upon this point. It may, indeed, be doubted whether any other measure of public policy so imperatively demands a wise and liberal adjustment as the settlement of the land-tenure. If others than the Mexicans are to inhabit the country in the future, it requires no soothsayer to predict that this course will be found to be indisj^en sable. One of the first fruits of the diversified industry spring- ing from the new departure will be better wages, better food, better clothing, and better houses for the toiling millions. Following these will come the intelligent par- ticipation of every adult male citizen in the administration of public affairs. That best of all guarantees for the pres- ervation of civil liberty and social order — the co-operation of all classes of citizens for the protection of the rights of person and property — will come next in course. Eevolutions and brigandage, which have so long been the curse and op- probrium of Mexico, will no longer be possible. A perma- nent government '■' of the people, by the people, and for the people," will do away these and all kindred abuses. Thus will a new impetus be given to the cause of free govern- ment throughout the world. PAET SECOND. CITIES A]^D EOUTES OF TRAVEL. SECTION I. Mexico. HOW TO EEACH THE COUNTRY. We give below the various routes from New York to Mexico, by steamship and railroad, and partly by steamer and partly by rail : EouTE I. — From New York via Havana, Progreso, Campeche, and Frontera, to Vera Cruz, by steamer, in about ten days. EouTE II. — From New York to New Orleans by rail in about sixty hours, thence steamer to Vera Cruz in about five days, calling at Bagdad, Tampico, and Tuxpan. EouTE III. — From New York to Laredo, Texas (on the Rio Grande), by rail in four days ; or to El Paso, Texas, via St. Louis, in about the same time. Route I. NEW TOEK TO VEEA CEUZ BY STEAMEE. Fares, first class, $85 ; second class, $00. Leaving New York, the steamer reaches Havana in about four days. A stop of an entire day is generally made at Havana before proceeding to the Mexican ports. 148 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Tlie tourist will not only have time to see the city, but can also visit the wonderful caves of Matanzas and the valley of Yumuri, distant two hours by rail. (For a full description of Cuba and the West Indies, see Appletons' Iland-Book of Winter Eesorftt.) From Havana the steamer proceeds to Progreso, in Yucatan,* arriving there in about thirty-six hours, and stopping about twenty-four hours. The traveler can now disembark in a small boat, and set foot on Mexican soil. Progreso is the seaport of the city of Merida, twenty-two miles distant. There is no hotel accommodation in Pro- greso, but the American consul can assist the tourist in securing lodgings. The town is well laid out, and has straight and broad streets. Tourists will be interested in the scenes of the fruit and vegetable markets on the plaza. The houses are usually of one story, and are built of mor- tar, with thatched roofs. Indians constitute the greater part of the population, which amounts to 1,900 inhabitants. Much hemp, rice, and maize are grown in Northern Yucatan. Upward of 90,000 bales of hemp are sent to the United States annually. Cacti and cocoa-palms are found in great abundance near Progreso. The tourist may have the opportunity of bath- ing in the warm surf before leaving town. A railroad has recently f been completed to the city of Merida (fares, first class, $1 ; second class, 75 cents). This is the capital of the State of Yucatan, and has about 33,000 inhabitants. It is built on the site of the ancient Maya * Prescott states in the Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 222, that Yucatan is a corruption of the word " tectecan," meaning, in the Maya language, I do not understand. This term was the reply which the Spanish navigators received upon landing on the coast, when they asked the natives the name of the country. Supposing it to be a direct answer to their question, the Spaniards called the newly discovered region Yucatan. f In 1881. MEXICO. 149 city of Tihoo. Few travelers visit Merida^ and hence there is only one small hotel {Hotel Bazar). Here are found many interesting buildings, notably the Casa de Montejo, a richly-sculptured edifice, erected about the year 1540, and which is still occupied. Several lines of railway are in course of construction from this city to points in the interior. The road via Ticul toward Peto., on the south, is now (May, 1891) 50 miles long ; that going to Valladolid., on the southeast, has been built for a distance of 40 miles ; and 35 miles of the line toward Calhini, on the southwest, have been finished. From the port of CampecJie two railroads are in progress : one toward Calhini., 28 miles ; another toward Lerma, about four miles. Nearly 200 miles of railway have been com- pleted in Yucatan. Many interesting ruins are found in the northern and central jsarts of the State, Tourists intending to visit them should hire conveyances at Merida. The traveler will need light but strong clothing. Long boots or leggings are iii- dispensaUe. The most accessible remains are at Ake (30 miles), Mayapan (30 miles), Uxmal (70 miles), and Kahah (85 miles). The most important ruined city is that of Uxmal. The remains of Cliiclien-Itza lie about 150 miles southeast of the capital and a journey to them is costly, tedious, and difficult. There are also interesting though less extensive ruins at Lalna, Zayi, and Xcoch, in central and southern Yucatan ; but these localities have rarely been visited thus far by American or European travelers. (See chapter on ruins for a general description of these ancient cities and towns.) Yucatan is a flat region whose surface does not rise more than 400 feet above the sea-level. Water is very scarce and valuable. There is only one river, the Rio Hondo. The rainy season lasts from April to October, during which time the reservoirs and tanks of the haciendas are filled for use in the remaining months of the year. 150 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. From Progreso the steamer takes a southwesterly course, and touches at Campeche, the capital of the State of the same name, and then proceeds to Frontera, in Tabasco. Cortes landed near the latter town on his voyage from Cuba to Mexico. Large quantities of logwood are exported from Fron- tera. The tourist may leave the steamer at this point, and visit the famous ruins of Pale^tque, which are situated about 150 miles to the southeast. The journey, however, is a dif- A Tropical Jungle. ficult one, and a small boat must be hired to ascend the Usu- macinta Eiver. Guides, provisions, blankets, tents, medi- cines, etc., should be taken from Frontera. Travelers may also proceed to San Juan Bautista, the capital of the State of Tabasco (population, 6,800), and visit Palenque by road. MEXICO. 151 Steamers do not touch at the ports of Campeche and Frontera on every trip. (See time-table for exact dates of arrival.) The vessels anchor about five miles from the shore, and only stop long enough to transfer passengers, mail, and cargo to a small tender, and then continue on the direct route to Vera Cruz, reaching this port in about ten days out from New York, including stoppages. Approaching Vera Cruz, the snow-clad peak of Orizaba may be distinctly seen at a distance of 50 miles on a clear day, and the Cofre de Perote, another snow-capped mount- ain, is also visible. The Mexican coast is dangerous for navigators, on ac- count of coral reefs. Just before reaching Vera Cruz, we pass an island on the south side of the town. It is the Isla de los Sacrificios, and is said to have been used by the Aztecs for sacrificing a youth on a certain day in every year. The other island directly opposite the city of Vera Cruz is San Juan de Uloa. It was so named by Grijalva. This islet is covered with a fort, which was begun by the Span- iards in 1569, and finished in 1633. Hernando Cortes landed here on April 21, 1519. The fort is now used as a prison. Presently the steamer drops anchor. As soon as the health-ofiicer has examined the vessel, and given the captain a clean bill of health, a large number of boats sur- round her, and the owners rush on board, offering their services to the passengers who are about to go ashore. There is no fixed price for disembarking at Vera Cruz, and the traveler should make a bargain with a boatman before leaving the steamer, to pay him so much for taking his baggage ashore, and also to the custom-liouse and hotel. A boatman will take a single passenger for a Mexican dol- lar, including the conveyance of his baggage to the hotel ; and, if a large party go in the same boat, an. arrangement at a reduced price can be made pro rata. 152 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. It is impossible to laud at Vera Cruz during a norther, which blows at intervals from October to March. Tour- ists may be compelled to remain several days on the steamship waiting for the waves to subside. Neither sail- ing-vessels nor steamers can enter this port while the north- er lasts. Vera Cruz has really no harbor at all, although the two islands already mentioned afford some protection to the shipping during a storm. Vessels at anchor gener- ally put to sea during a severe norther. It has often been said that Cortes should have founded the city of Vera Cruz at Anton Lizardo, a point about fifteen miles to the south- ward, which is the only good harbor on the Gulf of Mexico. The latter place is the terminus of a branch line of the Mexican Southern Eailroad, and is evidently destined to surpass Vera Cruz in commercial importance at an early day. {Compare Section VII.) A French company has recently entered into a con- tract with the Mexican Government to build an extensive breakwater in the harbor of Vera Cruz, which will cost about $10,000,000. VEEl CEUZ. Population, 20,000. Hotels {Diligencias, Vera Cruzano, and de Mejico.) Cafes on the Calle de la Yndepcndencia. Telegraph-Office on the same street. Post-Office on the Calle de Cinco de 3Ia>jo, about a quarter of a mile southwest of the xaam plaza. Places of Interest. — 1. Plaza dc la Consiitucion. 2. Plaza del Mo- cado. 3. The Parochial Church, the tower of which should be ascended for a view of the city. 4. The Alameda. None of the buildings of Vera Cruz are worthy of a visit. The climate is usually hot and very unhealthy, the vomito, or yellow fever, being prevalent in the summer season, and even breaking out occasionally in the winter months. Tourists are advised to spend as little time in MEXICO. 153 this city as possible. Passengers on the steamers may remain on board until within an hoar of the departure of trains for the interior. During a norther, however, the tem- perature sinks to 65° Falir. , and then, of course, the stran- ger is not incommoded by heat. Travelers can have their foreign money changed at the office of the agents of the principal lines of steamships, Messrs. R. C. Ritter & Co. The streets in the city of Vera Cruz are laid out at right angles, and are paved with cobble-stones, with a ken- nel in the middle. Flocks of turkey-buzzards, called zopilotes, take the place of a street-cleaning department. These birds are pro- tected by law, a fine of 15 being imposed for killing one of them. The houses are of either one or two stories, and are gen- erally built of stone and mortar, and covered with red tiles. Many of them have patios, or court-yards, and railings painted green in front of the windows facing the street, reminding the traveler of Old Spain. A walk, or ride in the horse-cars, from the mohn jjlaza to the Alameda, should be taken by the stranger. The variety of colors and signs on the buildings, the picturesque cos- tumes and musical language of the natives, and the tropi- cal vegetation, will have the charm of novelty to the tourist coming from a northern clime. Vera Cruz, formerly the capital of the State of the same name, is situated on the 19th parallel of north latitude. It was founded by the viceroy. Count Monterey, at the end of the sixteenth century, and was made a city by Philip III of Spain in 1615. The city is built on an arid plain. It was formerly called Villa Rica, or Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz — i. e., the rich city of the true cross. The original town of Vera Cruz founded by Cortes lies several miles north of the present city. Referring to this spot, the historian Prescott, in his 154 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 229, says : " Little did the Conqueror imagine that the desolate beach on which he first planted his foot, was one day to be covered by a flour- ishing city, the great mart of European and Oriental trade, the commercial capital of New Spain." At the present day about two thirds of Mexican com- merce passes through the port of Vera Cruz. The imports Jalajja are increasing rapidly, those of 1882 being nearly fifty per cent srreater than those of 1881. An excursion may be made to Jdlapa, sixty miles dis- tant, by tramway. It is said that the railroad between this town and Vera Cruz will be completed on August 1, 1891. Jalapa. has a population of 12,400, and an elevation of 4,335 feet. (Hotels, Nacional and Vera Cruzano.) The MEXICO. 155 town is beautifully situated at the foot of tlie Macuil- tepete Mountain. The well-known Cofre de Perote, 13,552 feet high, according to Humboldt, is within a day's jour- ney. There are no buildings in Jalapa of special interest to the tourist except the old convent of San Francisco. Many of the merchants of Vera Cruz have their country- houses at Jalapa. The climate is cool, although damp, for the greater part of the year. The soil is very fertile, and cofEee, tobacco, vanilla, cotton, maize, and jalap are culti- vated extensively. The town derives its name from the latter plant. Travelers may visit the ruins of Papanila, which lie about fifty miles north of Jalapa. Diligences run as far as Tusintlan ; thence one must go on horseback. The teocalU lies about six miles from the town of Papantla, which contains a small hotel. Dr. Autrey, an Ameri- can physician, can give the tourist information about the country. Horses, blankets, and provisions should be procured for this journey. (See chapter on ruins for de- scription. ) There is another teocalli at Tusapan, 45 miles west of Papantla. The village of Misantla, which is situated 30 miles northeast of Jalapa, contains a small pyramid. An Aztec temple may also be found at Mapilca, on the Rio Tecolutla. If the tourist has reached Vera Cruz by the northern route, he may make an excursion to the famous ruins of PalEjSTQUE, by taking a steamer down the coast to Mina- titlan on the Goatzacoalcos River, and thence proceed by road via San Cristobal ; or he may go directly to the mouth of the Rio Grijalva, ascend the river to San Juan Bau- tista, and then travel by horseback to Palenque via Macus- pan. This trip is somewhat difficult, but the traveler will be well repaid by visiting the ruins, which lie about eight 156 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRA VEL. miles from the town of Palenque. (For description of the buildings, see chapter on ruins.) Tourists should procure letters of introduction to the Government officials in the country lying between the coast and Palenque. There are no hotel accommodations, and the traveler will be obliged to pass the nights in Mexican huts, where he may always expect courteous treatment. Tourists are recommended ta provide themselves with sufficient provisions, tents, camp-bedsteads, mosquito-net- ting, and medicines. Extreme caution should be taken to avoid the numerous insects as much as possible. The jun- gle abounds with moniquiles, Jiggers, ticks, red ants, etc. The moniquiles burrow under the skin, causing great suf- fering. Should the stranger be attacked by these peculiar insects, he should employ the common remedy of pasting a leaf over the bite, which causes the insect to come to the surface, when it may be extracted. The natives will point out the peculiar kind of leaf to be used. Route II. FROM NEW YORK TO NEW ORLEANS BY RAIL, THENCE BY STEAMER TO VERA CRUZ. Fare to New Orleans, $38. Fares from New Orleans to Vera Cruz — first class, $50 ; second class, $35. (For description of New Orleans, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States, or Hand-Booh of Winter Re- sorts. ) Leaving New Orleans, the steamer descends the Missis- sippi River for about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and, entering the Gulf of Mexico by the South Pass, takes its course toward Bagdad, the port of Matamoros. No land is seen till the vessel approaches within a few miles of the latter town. We drop anclior about five miles from the shore, and a tender comes out to take off passengers, cargo. MEXICO. 157 and the mails. Matamoros, in the State of Tamanlipas, is a port of entry, and Hes on the south bank of the Rio Grande, opposite Brownsville in Texas, and about thirty miles from the mouth of the river. The population is about 12,000. A railroad is in progress toward the city of Monterey. Another is projected southward to Tampico. (See Section XII.) Leaving Bagdad, we sail southward, keeping out of sight of land almost all the way to Tampico. On reaching the latter port the passengers, freight, and mail are trans- ferred to a small sail-boat and carried over the bar at the mouth of the Rio Tampico to the town of the same name about nine miles distant. There is a small hotel at Tam- pico, and the population numbers 7,000. Ten miles to the northward is the Rio Pdnuco, famous in the history of New Spain as being the terminus of G-ri- jalva's voyage from Cuba along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, and also noted as the spot where the remnant of De Soto's band of explorers landed in their unfortunate voyage southward from the mouth of the Mississippi. The Rio Pdnuco is about one thousand feet wide, and is said to be navigable for a distance of twenty miles from its moutli. Small steamers connect Tampico with villages on the Pdnuco and Tamesi Rivers. A trip up either stream is recommended. A branch of the Mexican Central Eailway has been constructed from Tampico to the city of San Luis Potosi. (For description, see pp. 240, 241.) From Tampico the steamship proceeds to Tixjmn, where passengers, freight and mails are landed by means of a small sailing-vessel. The town lies nine miles above the mouth of the Tuxpaii River and has about 8,000 inhabitants. This river is navigable for about thirty miles, but tlie depth of water on the bar at high tide is only six feet. No hotel accommodations are to be had in Tuxpan. 158 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Papantla may be reached in two days on horseback. (See p. 40.) Valuable petroleum-wells are found in the vicinity, and two American companies have already erected works to refine the oil.* The petroleum occurs chiefly in the State of Vera Cruz, between the Pdnuco and Tuxpan Rivers. The wells are mostly near the coast, at Chapapote, Santa Teresa, Juan Felipe, Escondida, Sepultura, Carribajal, Monte Grande, Paso Grande, and on the borders of the Laguna de Tamialma. There are submerged stone ruins in this lagoon. A railroad from this port toward the City of Mexico is projected, but it will probably be several years before the work of construction is finished. It should be borne in mind that passengers can disem- bark at Bagdad, Tampico, and Tuxpan in good weather only. During severe northers they are taken to Vera Cruz. Route in. FROM NEW YORK TO LAREDO, TEXAS, EITHER VIA ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, OR NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA ; OR TO EL PASO, TEXAS, EITHER VIA TEXAS AND PACIFIC RAIL- WAY, OR ATCHISON, TOPEKA AND SANTA FE RAILROAD. Fares from New York to Laredo, $69.15 unlimited, and $58.80 limited; and from New York to El Paso, $"74.60 unlimited, and $64.85 limited. (For description of these routes from New York south- ward, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States.) Sections IV and V of Part Second describe resjiectively the routes from Laredo and El Paso to the interior of Mexico. * The Vera Cruz Oil Company was organized at Boston in 1881. Mr. Thomas Nickerson, Eon. B. F. Butler, and others, are shareholders. A well has been drilled to a depth of 372 feet, and filled with a five-inch casing. Experts say that this oil is very promising, and that there is only eight per cent waste. Land is cheap, the rate of taxation is low, and there is a duty of 32 cents a gallon on imported petroleum. MEXICO. 159 Tourists visiting Mexico from San Francisco, Califor- nia, by rail, should take the Southern Pacific Eailroad to Benson, Arizona, 1,024 miles distant, and proceed to Guat/- mas, or other points on the west coast ; or go directly to M Paso, a distance of 1,286 miles, and thence travel into the interior. 12 A Mexican Canon. SECTION II. The Mexican Railway Company (Ferrocarril Mexicano). FROM VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO. 263 J miles, or 424 kilometres. Fares, first class, $16 ; second class $12.50; third class, $7.25.* Time, 14^ hours. This route will be described as follows : 1. From Vera Cruz to Orizaba. 2. From Orizaba to Esperanza. 3. From Esperanza to PueUa via Apizaco. 4. From Puehla to the City of Mexico. 1. From Vera Cruz to Orizaba, 82 miles. The tourist is advised not to proceed directly to the lofty table-land, but to remain a few days at some inter- mediate point, e. g., at Cordoba or Orizaba, in order to become accustomed to the rarefied air. The latter city is preferable as regards hotel accommodations, and it presents besides some objects of interest to the sight-seer. There is only one through passenger- train daily, which at present (1884) starts at 6 a, m. Leaving the railway-station, which is six and one fifth feet above the Gulf of Mexico, the road traverses a broad plain, which is barren near the city of Vera Cruz. The tourist soon encounters a dense growth of cactus and chaparral, with a few palms interspersed. A branch road leaves the main track about three miles from Vej'a Cruz, and runs to Medellioi, six miles distant. * The diligence fare from Vera Cruz to Mexico used to be $50. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. J 61 In the tierra caliente (hot land) the hovels of the natives are of one story, and are generally thatched "with palm- leaves. Three lines of telegraph are seen by the side of the track. One of them belongs to the National Government, another to a private corporation called " The Commercial," and the third to the Mexican Eailway Company. The last uses imported poles of cast-iron, with white china insulators. Passing the station of Tejeria (9^ miles), whence a branch tramway leads to Jalapa, 60 miles distant, the sur- face of the ground continues fiat, and affords good grazing all the way to SoUclad (26 miles) ; elevation, 305 feet. Here the train stops ten minutes. Coffee and bread are for sale, at the price of one real. The majestic, snow-clad peak of Orizaba now rises into full view. For a hundred miles the eye follows the crest of the sierra forming the eastern boundary of the table-land. The plain of the State of Vera Cruz is about thirty miles in width. After crossing the Soledad River, the ascending grade becomes perceptible. At many of the railway-stations cakes of compressed coal are piled in large masses. They are imported from Great Britain, as there is no coal near the line of the road, and wood being scarce and dear, except in the vicinity of the volcano of Orizaha. The next station is Camaron (SO^ miles). The road now crosses a plateau covered with basaltic bowlders. The so-called Spanish moss, or lichen, hangs from the trees, reminding the American tourist of the forests of Georgia and Florida. Paso del Macho (47i miles) is the next stopping-place. Here the train begins to ascend a heavy grade. The track makes a Avide curve around the base of the thickly- wooded Chiquihuite Mountain, and soon comes in sight of the cascade of the Rio de Atoyac. The adjacent region is covered with a dense tropical jungle, in which many species 162 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. of flowers and trailing vines grow luxuriantly. The matted) forest extends to the summits of the neighboring hills. I Perhaps no other part of Mexico possesses a richer vegeta- tion than this portion of the route. It forms a striking con-| trast to the dreary plains which the traveler will soon reach. The train now arrives at Atoyac (53|- miles) ; elevation, 1,512 feet. The line crosses a bridge over the Rio de Atoyac, This, like the other bridges along the route, is built of iron, with stone piers. Proceeding farther, several tunnels are passed, and both tobacco and sugar-cane are seen growing in the vicinity. The next station is Cordoha (65f miles), which lies at the altitude of 2,713 feet above the level of the Gulf. This town has about five thousand inhabitants, and is one mile distant from the railway. It is reached by horse-cars, and it has a small hotel. Cordoba is famous for its coffee-plan- tations, and the stranger will have no better opportunity in Mexico for visit- ing one of them. A day may be spent to advan- tage at Cordoba. Various kinds of fruit grow plenti- fully, and are sold at a very low price. A basket of two dozen oranges costs twenty - five cents, whereas the usual price on the table-land is three oranges for a medio (six and a quarter cents). Mexicans en route to the capital often lay m a large stock of pine- apples, bananas, and oranges at Cordoba, and take them to their homes, as the extortionate rates of freight on this railway render fruit very expensive in the City of Mexico. The Pineapple Plant. i THE MEXICAN' RAILWAY COMPANY. 163 Most of the cofEee consumed in Eastern Mexico grows in the vicinity of Cordoba. There are many valuable planta- tions, and a few Americans have established themselves here. It may be remarked that the State of Vera Cruz produces more coffee than any other State in the Eepublic. Leaving Cordoba, the road makes a long bend and crosses the bridge of Metlac, built over a river of the same name. The scenery is magnificent, and the ravine, or barranca^ of Metlac contains one of the most skillful pieces of engi- neering to be found in the country. The general plan of building the Mexican railways has been to wind around the bases of the several mountains, rather than to drive long tunnels or construct large bridges. Passing the hamlet of Fortin (70f miles), the next station is Orizaba (82 miles). ORIZABA. Population, 11,000 ; elevation, 4,028 feet. Hotels. — A la Borda (German), Diligencias, and Cuatro Nadones, Baths. — De Santa Rita on the main street ; very good. Horse-cars from the station to the hotels ; fare, a medio (6^ cents). Hacks, 6 7'eales (75 cents) an hour. Orizaba is the present capital * of the State of Vera Cruz. It lies in a broad and very fertile valley. There is excel- lent pasturage in the vicinity, and fine cattle are raised. The staple products of the valley are tobacco and sugar- cane. There are several liaciendas of the latter, the largest of which is at Jalapilla. Tobacco grows in the outskirts of the city in large quantities. Even church-yards have been turned to iise for planting this article. During the Spanish domination, when the restrictions on trade were so oppressive, the cultivation of tobacco was confined by law to the district including Cordoba and Orizaba, and the Government employed insj^ectors to pull- up any leaves of the plant that were found growing outside of it. * Jalapa was formerly the capital. 104 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Places of Interest. — 1. The Parroquia and other churches. 2. The Pasco. 3. The Ccrro (hill) del Borrcgo. 4. Jalapilla (sugar-mill). 5. The cascade of Rincon Grande. 6. The cascade of £ai-rio Nucvo. The Paseo is one of the most beautiful parks in Mexico. It is about a half-mile from the principal hotels. The Gerro del Borrego should be ascended. Its sum- mit commands a magnificent view. During the inva- sion, the French defeated the Mexicans here on June 13, 1862, and the remains of the fortifications are seen to this day. There is a limestone-quarry at the base of the moun- tain. Jalapilla is a hamlet about a mile and a half south of the city. It lies in the midst of rich fields of sugar-cane. There is a large sugar-mill here, belonging to Sefior Bringos, and the tourist will have an excellent opportunity of see- ing how sugar is manufactured. We may add that a much larger quantity of sugar could be produced in the valley of Orizaba than is now yielded, because only a small part of it is occupied by the sugar-cane. This remark would also apply to the greater part of the arable land in the State of Vera Cruz in regard to crops of other articles. This State ranks second in the annual production of sugar, Morelos being the first. The Emperor Maximilian resided a short time at Jalapilla after the French army had evacuated the capital. Here he held the famous council to determine whether he should abdicate or not. The cascade of Rincon Grayide is about a mile east of Jalapilla. There are several waterfalls about forty feet m height, which are surrounded by very luxuriant vegetation. There is another cascade {Barrio Nuevo) of smaller dimen- sions on the north side of the valley of Orizaba. Owing to the scarcity of ram m Mexico, waterfalls are very highly regarded. They are found chiefly in the tierra templada and in the '' foot-hills " of the Sierra Madre. The THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 165 majestic peak of Orizaha is visible only from the eastern end of the city. An intervening ridge prevents the ob- server from seeing it in other quarters of the town. If the tourist will leave his hotel early enough to see the sun rise on the mountain, he will behold one of the grandest sights in Mexico. Most of the houses in Orizaha are one story high, with overhanging red-tiled roofs. The traveler will have a chance to examine the class of dwellings occupied by the poor people. They are constructed of all kinds of rub- bish, such as old boards, sugar-cane stalks, barrel-staves, sun-dried bricks, and pieces of matting. These huts are generally thatched with palm-leaves or with dried strips of the maguey, and the solid ground serves as a floor. The climate of Orizaba is temperate but very moist. Bull-fights take place on Sunday afternoons, the bull-ring, or plaza de toros, being in an old convent. Another large church is now used as a barracks for the garrison. There is a Ma- sonic lodge in the upper part of the same edifice. The stranger, by visiting the registrar's office {oficio piihlico mas antiguo), can inspect some of the old Spanish deeds written on parchment, with many abbreviations, dur- ing the time of Cortes. The mediseval Spanish contains so many contractions as to be almost incomprehensible to the Mexican of to-day. For example, instead of writing q-u-e for the word que, meaning "which," in those days they wrote simply the letter q, with the addition of a semicir- cular curve, which was carried over to the first letter of the next word, giving the two words the appearance of a single one. Notwithstanding the age of these manuscripts, they are still in an excellent state of preservation. 2. From Orizaba to Esperanza (29 miles). Leaving Orizaha, the railroad traverses the flat plain, and passes the village of Horales, which boasts of a small 16G CITIES AMf ROUTES OE TRAVEL. cotton-factory. The next station is Enurial (88-^ miles). A Fairlie engine, which is constructed of two locomotives, with the tender on top, is now attached to the train. The grade soon becomes very heavy as the iron horse climbs the cumbres, or summits. Passing through several tunnels, the Barranca del Inficrnillo is reached. This locality affords the most magnificent scenery along the entire route. The track is built on the edge of a j^recipice, and a roaring torrent is seen at the bottom of the rocky caflon, six hun- dred feet below. The tourist may now look back on the broad valley, and trace the course of the winding railway, interspersed with bridges, and see the old diligence road in the distance, which is to-day given up to pack-animals. Trains of burros, or donkeys, still transjiort the wares of the peasant to the neighboring villages. The next station is Maltrata (94|- miles), where the ele- vation is 5,550 feet. The volcano of Orizaba is visible from this point. It is, however, generally covered with clouds, except in the early morning. There are so many curves, and the ascending grade is so steep, that the train only makes about seven miles an hour in this part of the journey. Some maize is grown beyond Maltrata, but the country is barren for the most part. Bota (97i miles) is the next station. The line now makes another great bend around the steep slope of the mountain, and comes to Alta Luz (103 miles), a hamlet of several houses. If the observer will look back, he may see the village of Maltrata, with the track meandering across the plain, and, far in the distance, a glimpse of the valley of Orizaba may be obtained. The traveler has reached the tierra fria, or cold zone. The flora remmds one of the Eocky Mountains. Dwarf pines, spruces, and deciduous trees, with a few Alpine flowers, take the place of the luxuriant tropical vegetation of the "hot country" that has recently been traversed. TEE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 167 now attained the level of the great This point, however^, is not the high- Blue limestone covers the country from Orizaba west- ward, and the region is adapted to grazing to some ex- tent. The next station is Boca del Monte, or "mouth of the mountain" (107|- miles), where the elevation is 7,924 feet. The tourist has tahle-land of Mexico, est on the line, the summit being near Guadalupe, about eighty miles distant.' The traveler crosses a flat plain for sev- eral miles, and ar- rives at Es^peranza (llli miles). The train stops thirty minutes for dinner. The east- TTiis cut shows the zones of vegetation in going from the sea-level to the summit of the snow- clad peaks. ward and westward passenger-trains meet here. The re- spective escorts of soldiers change cars, and are carried back to the termini of the road. A high wall surrounds the station, and a guard stands at each entrance. A small but well-kept hotel lies within the inclosure. It belongs to the railway company, and a French restaurateur is employed as manager. The nights and early mornings are very cool on the table-land, the thermometer usually falling to 40° Fahr., and occasionally below the freezing- point. The plain of Esperanza, which has an area of about forty-five square miles, is quite fertile. Wheat, bar- ley, and Indian corn are grown in abundance. If the tourist will stop over for a day, he may visit a fine hacienda, or farm, at 8an Antonio de Ahajo, about two miles distant. It belongs to Don Andres Gutierrez, and is valued at $200,000. The liacienda contains houses for the peons, or 168 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. day-laborers, barns, stock-yards, blacksmith and carpenter shops, etc. There is also a quaint little church, which bears the date of a. d. 1772 on the belfry. The liacendado, or proprietor, employs a priest to officiate, and also to teach the children of his peon^, who number several hundred. There are a great many horses, mules, cattle, and sheep on the farm, and the owner uses j)lows of American manufac- ture. The traveler has an excellent view from Espera^iza of the volcano of Orizaba, which rises behind tlie Sierra Negra. The mountain can be ascended from this point. It is dif- ficult, however, to procure horses here, and accordingly the tourist is recommended to make the ascent from San Andres, about six miles distant by trail, but fifteen miles by the railway. The peak of Orizaba is 17,200 feet above the sea-level, and is the highest mountain in Mexico, with the exception of Popocatepetl. Tliere were violent eruptions in 1545 and 1566, but the volcano has been quiet ever since. It was reported to be smoking in April, 1883. There is no diffi- cult climbing on the mountain, but the ascent is exceedingly laborious on account of the steepness of the snow-clad cone. It is almost impossible for the traveler coming direct from Vera Cruz to ascend Orizaba. He should spend several days on the table-land, and accustom his lungs to the rare- fied atmosphere, before starting out for the summit of the peak. The tourist can ride to a cave just below the timber- line, which is about 13,500 feet above the level of the sea, and pass the night there. Guides, blankets, and provisions for two days must be taken. As the clouds rise and often cover the mountain early in the forenoon, the traveler should leave tlie cave by 4 A. m. if possible. About five hours will be required to reach the summit. Very few persons thus far have climbed Orizaba. An excursion to Oaxaca and Mitla may be made from CitlcUtepefi'l, or the Peak of Orizaba. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 169 Esperanza. A horse-railroad extends from the latter place to Tehuacan, thirty-one miles distant. A diligence is then run to Tecomahapa, about forty miles farther. Thence the tourist must travel by horseback via the villages of Teotit- lan, Cues, Doininguillo, Joyacatlan, San Juan, and Btla, to Oaxaca, about ninety miles distant. Tehuacan (Hotels, Dili- gencias and FerrocarriX) has a population of 10,000. The traveler is advised to procure horses in this place. There is a meson (inn) at Tecomahapa, but the other settlements being very small are destitute of hotel accommodations. The nights must be spent in the huts of the natives. Par- ties making this trip are advised to carry provisions with them. The Mexican Southern Railroad vi^ill eventually connect Tehuacan with Oaxaca. The latter city is de- scribed in Section VII, and the reader is referred to the chapter on ruins in Part First for an account of Mitla. 3. From Esperanza to Puebla via Apizaco, 94f miles. Leaving Esperanza, the traveler sees the snow-capped summits of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl on the left, and the pyramidal peak of Malinche on the extreme right. The landscape reminds him of the parks of Colorado. The railroad crosses the broad plain, and the station of San Anch'es {126^ miles) is reached. Horse-cars run to the town, about five miles distant. It has already been stated that the volcano of Orizaba may be ascended from this point (p. 168). The summit is about fifteen miles dis- tant. The train now passes some maize-fields and the salt lakes of El Salaclo, and arrives at Rinconada (139 miles), eleva- tion 7,731 feet. The country soon becomes fertile again, and the next station is San Marcos {lbO\ miles). Another railway crosses the track here, extending to Puehla on the south, and to San Juan de Llanos on the north. It will be completed in the autumn of 1891. Proceeding farther. 170 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the train stops at Huamantla (IGl miles). The traveler is now in the iState of Tlaxcala, the former home of the great rivals to the Aztecs, whose services Cortes secured on the march from Vei-a Cruz to the valley of Mexico, thereby greatly increasing his forces. Much Indian corn is culti- vated in the neighborhood, and the maguey, or aloe, and noiml, or cactus-tree, are used as fences. The picturesque mountain of Malinche lies behind the town. It was named after Dona Marina, the interjireter of the Span- ish army under Cortes. The next station is Api- zaco (176f miles), eleva- tion 7,912 feet. A branch line leads from this point to Puebla, 47 kilometres, or 29^ miles. It was opened on September 1(3, 1869. Leaving Apizaco, the road makes a long curve and runs southward to Santa Ana (10^ miles). The mountain of Malm- che remains in full view. It is often snow-capped, and the natives bring the snow to the train and sell it in glasses mixed with lemon-juice. Maguey, maize, and wheat grow in large quantities along the line. The grade is downward all the way to Pue- hla. The tourist soon comes in sight of the majestic snow- clad peaks of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. The former has an elevation of 10,500 feet above the broad valley. The next station is Panzacola (21f miles), and a half-hour's ride brings the tourist to Puehla. The Nopal. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 171 PUEBLA. Population, 64,588 ; elevation, '7,201 feet. Hotels. — Espanol, Diliffencias, Bel Cnsto, Del Recrco. Restaurants and cafes on the northern and western sides of the Plaza niaijor. Baths, adjoining the Paseo viej<^\ real). Carriages, 50 cents an hour ; on Sunday and feast-days, 75 cents. Pueola was founded on September 28, 1531. The city is par excellence an old Spanish settlement. It is often called PueUa de los Angeles, or town of the angels. Since May 5, 1862, the city has been named Puebla de Zaragoza, after a general of that name, who defeated the French on the date above mentioned. The churches are finer than those of any other Mexican town, and the streets are well paved. The houses are usually built with two stories, and arcades are found on the Plaza mayor. There are twenty- six public squares and two parks in Puehla. The adjoining city of Cliolula was the headquarters of Cortes for several months during the Conquest. Pictures of some of the battles between the Spaniards and the na- tives may be seen on the walls of the hotels. Blankets, or zarapes, hats of straw and felt, soap, thread, crockery, and glass are manufactured in large quantities in Puebla. Many fine stores are found in the city, and the traveler can pur- chase ornaments of the so-called Mexican onyx, or tecali, which occurs in the neighboring marble-quarries. It is composed chiefly of carbonate of lime. The stranger should ascend one of the towers of the cathedral for a view of the city. The scene is one of sur- passing beauty. Malinche lies on the eastern side of the fertile plain, and the volcano of Popocatepetl rises about twenty-five miles to the westward. Tourists can ascend the latter mountain from PueUa. Guides, blankets, and pro- visions for three days, must be taken ; but it will be more convenient to make the ascent from Amecameca, on the 172 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. western side of the ridge. (This trip is described in the section on the Morelos Railway. ) Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral (observe the wood-carvings and Mexican on3-x-work). 2. The Church of San Francisco. 3. The Church of La Compania. 4. The Church of San Cristobal. 5. The Museum. 6. The College, or Colegio del Estado. 7. ^he Paseo Nuevo and Pasco Vi(Qo. 8. The Pyramid of Clwlula. 9. Fort (xiuidalupe. Popocatepetl. There are several other churches, but they are hardly worth a visit. ^We have not space to describe all of the above buildings. The reader is referred to the chapter on ruins for an account of the pyramid at Cholula. At the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, Cortes states that the city of Cliolula contained 20,000 houses and about 150,000 inhabitants. To-day the population is less than 10,000. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 1Y3 A church built by Cortes, and containing some quaint his- torical paintings, is yet standing. Cliolula can also boast of a park. The town has an altitude of 6,906 feet accord- ing to Humboldt, or about 300 feet lower than Puebla. It is reached by carriage and by horse-cars (fare, first class, twenty-five cents). The distance is seven miles. Maguey and wheat are grown to a large extent in the vicinity. 4. From Puebla to the City op Mexico. Distance, 115| miles. Two trains daily. Leaving Puebla, the road has an ascending grade to Api- zaco. The heaviest is near the latter place. From Apizaco the land rises slightly, and the track crosses a gently undLi- lating plain covered with extensive maguey plantations. Guadalupe (186:^ miles) is the next station. The high- est point of the Mexican Eailway is near by. It is 8,333 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. This is the most elevated station in the Eepublic, except where the Mexican National Eailway traverses the sierra between Toluca and the capi- tal. The summit of the latter route is 9,974 feet. At various points of the road the tourist will see soldiers, wear- ing gray uniforms, and armed with carbines and sabers. They are the Guardia rural, or mounted patrols, who ac- company the diligences, and protect the smaller towns from the depredations of robbers. Passing Soltepec (192|- miles) ; and Apam (205| miles), which has an elevation of 8,226 feet, the tram reaches Irolo (215-1 miles). A tramway leads from the last station to Pa- cliuca, thirty-seven miles distant. Pachuca is one of the oldest mining towns in Mexico, and many of its mines are worked at the present day ; but, as the daily passenger- train from Vera Cruz and Apizaco does not connect with the tramway, the tourist is advised to proceed directly to the capital, and make an excursion to Pachuca, taking the outward morning train. (For description, see Section III.) 174 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Leaving Irolo, where tlie elevation is 8,040 feet, the road- bed descends gradually toward tlie City of Mexico. The next station is Ometusco (221^ miles), following which comes La Palnia (225^ miles). Tourists will observe that the houses in the villages on the table-land are built of large, sun-dried bricks, called adobe. The country is sparsely populated, and the natives live together in towns or hamlets. It is very rare to see a dwelling isolated from any settlement. Passing Otumha (229 miles), famous in history as the scene of a battle in which the Spanish invaders defeated the Aztecs, on July 8, 1520, we reach San Juan Teotihuacan (236 miles). The latter place is celebrated for its two pyra- mids, that of the Sun and that of the Moon. They may be seen from the train, but a visit to these teocallis will re- pay the traveler. As the town lies about one and a half mile from the railroad, and as there is neither hotel nor restaurant in it, the tourist must continue the journey to the national capital, and make an excursion to San Juan Teotihuacan by the morning train, returning in the even- ing. (The pyramids are described in the chapter on ruins.) The next station is Tepexpam (243 miles), and the track soon enters the far-famed valley of Mexico. The road skirts the Lake of Texcoco, and presently the magnifi- cent snow-capped mountains are seen on the south. Pass- ing the town of Guadalupe, the traveler arrives at the rail- way-station of Buena Vista, one of the suburbs of the City of Mexico. An express-agent meets the train, and will deliver bag- gage to any part of the city. He will also take charge of the keys, as trunks and boxes must be opened and examined for the purpose of ascertaining Avhether they contain tax- able articles before being allowed to enter the city. The office of the express is in the Hotel Iturbide, and the charge is twenty-five cents (two reales) for each package. SECTION III. The City of Mexico and Environs. PopcLATioN of the capital in 1883, according to the best estimates, 225,000. Elevation, 7,347 feet, or 2,240 metres, above the sea-level. Hotels. — San Carlos, Iturbide, Gillow, Comonfort, Guadiola, Nacional, Eurojm, Del Bazar, Universal, Espii-itu Santo, Gran Hotel Central, Ortega, San Agustin, Humboldt, and several others. Mesones (inns). — De San Francisco, De la Estrella, De San Antonio, Del Picadero, and many others. Restaurants. — Iturbide, De la Concordia, Cafe Anglais, Maison Doree, Cafe de Paris. (Fee in restaurants, one medio (6^ cents) for each person.) Post-Office. — In the Ccdle de la Moneda. Telegraph-Offices in the railway-stations. Central office of the Gov- ernment telegraph line in the Ccdlejon del Espiritu Santo No. 5. Office hours, 8 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; on feast-days from 9 a. m. to 12 m. Office of the Vera Cruz Commercial line, at No. 14 Del Refugio. Office of the old line to Jalisco, in Los Bajos de San Agustin No. 2. Express-Office in the Uotel Iturbide. Wells, Fargo & Co. have also an agency in the city. Theatres. — Nacional, in the Calle de Vergara ; Principcd, Ccdle del Colisco ; Arben, in the Calle de San Felipe Ncri. Baths adjoining the Tcatro Nacional (the others can not be recom- mended). General Diligence-Office, in the rear of the Hotel Iturbide. Carriages, first, second, and third class. — First class, carrying blue flags, $1 an hour on work-days, and $1.50 on feast-days. Second class, with red flags, 75 cents and $1 on work-days and feast-days respectively. Third class, with white flags, from 6 a. m. to 10 p. m., 50 cents, and from 10 p. m. to 6 a. m., SI an hour on all days. Public carriages have their number and a tariff of charges printed in Spanish posted in a conspicuous manner inside. The driver is obliged to hand the passenger entering his carriage a paper containing the tariff, his name and number, and the place where he belongs. In hiring a vehicle, one quarter of an hour is the minimum that can be paid for. Saddle-horses, $2 for the afternoon. 13 176 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Banks. — London, Mexico, and South America, Capuchinas No. 3 ; No- clonal, corner (esquina) of San Francisco and San Juan de Letran Streets ; MercantU Mexicano, San Agusiin No. 15 ; Bolsa Mercantil Mcxicana, Pxien- te del Espiritu Santo No. 6. Societies. — Mexican Geograpliiciil and Statistical Society, Callc de San Andres No. 1 1 ; Mexican Academy, Calle de Medina No. 6 ; American club- house at the suburb of La Piedad ; German chib, corner (esquina) del Cole- gio de Ninas and Independencia Streets ; French Philharmonic and Dramatic Society, f ''" de Plateros ; French Circle (reading-room), Antir/ua Lonja, Bajos de la Diiymtacion ; Hunting and Fishing Club, Sta. Isabel No. 9. Railway stations at Buena Vista, for the Mexican Railway Company, and the ilexican Central Railroad Company ; at Colonia, for the Mexican National Railway Company ; at San Ldzaro for the Movelos Railway Company. IIORSE-CARS, of first and second class, start from the Plaza mayor at intervals of ten, fifteen, thirty, and sixty minutes, for all parts of the city and suburbs not exceeding ten miles distant. (See time-tables.) Diplomatic Corps. — The United States, France, Spain, Guatemala, Sal- vador, Honduras, and Chili are represented by envoys extraordinary and ministers plenipotentiary at the capital. Germany, Italy, and Belgium have ministers resident. Formerly Great Britain had diplomatic relations with Mexico, but they were suspended on account of the failure to pay a public debt. During the year 1883, Senor Mariscal, the ex-Secretary of Foreign Affairs, went to London and re-established diplomatic intercourse with England The foreign ministers live in the suburb of Snn Cosme. Newspapers. — Single copies, one medio (6J cents). The Two Republics, published semi-weekly, is the only journal in English. The Financier is printed half in Spanish and half in English. Besides these, several papers are published in Spanish and French, such as the Monitor Republicano, Diario Ojicial, and others. Bl'LL-fights, at the suburbs of Huisachal and Cuaidillan, on Sunday afternoons. The City of Mexico is the capital of the Eepublic. Tlie name is derived from Mexitli, who was the Aztec war-god. Under the nsime of Tenochtitlan it was the capi- tal of the ancient empire of AnaJmac. The story of its origin is as follows : The Aztecs, while wandering about the country, met the Colhuans, a rival tribe. A battle en- sued, and the former, being defeated, were pursued by the latter. The Aztecs marched to the valley of Mexico, which THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 177 was then mostly covered by lagoous. An oracle had com- manded them not to found a city till they had come to a spot where an eagle would be seen standing on a rock. Upon exploring the shores of the lagoon, the Aztec rovers beheld the long-sought eagle resting on a cactus, which The Volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. grew out of a crevice in the solid rock. Accordingly, they called their city Tenochtitlan, which signifies a '^'cactus upon a rock." The device of an eagle, with a serpent in its beak, stand- ing on a cactus that grows out of a rock, has become the escutcheon of Mexico. It is found on the national flag, as well as on the gold and silver coins. The present capital lies in latitude 19° 25' 45" north, and longitude 99° 5' 15" west of Greenwich. It is built on 1T8 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. what was formerly an island in the Lake of Tezcuco.* The ancient city is said to have been founded on July 18, 1325. Some of the houses were constructed on jmIcs, like the pre- historic Swiss lake-dwellings. In order to protect the capi- tal from the inundations of the surrounding lakes, a system of dikes was established by the Aztecs, the remnants of which exist to the present day. In 14G6 Montezuma I, after a disastrous flood in Tenochtitlmi, ordered a dike to be constructed, which was 39,300 f feet long and 65 feet wide. At the time of the Conquest the ancient capital was en- tered by the Spaniards under Cortes on the 8th day of No- vember, 1519. After a residence of about seven months, he was compelled to evacuate it. In the following year, with the aid of brigantines on Lake Texcoco, which were built especially for the jiurpose, in the neighboring hills, the Con- queror attacked and besieged the city. The siege lasted seventy-five days, when the Aztecs surrendered to the in- vaders. Soon afterward the Spaniards destroyed Tenoch- iitlan, and built a capital of their own on the same site, which has since borne the name of Mexico. Cortes made a great mistake in founding the modern city on the site of the old one, which was situated on soft ground, and in- volved an expensive system of dikes and causeways. It would have been preferable to have selected an elevated spot in the vicinity, like Tacubaya, about six miles south of the capital. Scarcely a vestige remains of the ancient me- tropolis. Several Aztec monuments, such as the calendar and sacrificial stones, and a few idols, have been dug up on the site of Tenoclititlan ; but the ruins of not even a single house or temple can be found to-day. These relics were practically incapable of destruction. Accordingly, they were buried. The ti'ocalU, or pyramid of the ancient capital, was much smaller than those of San Juan TcotiMiacan and * Now spelled Texcoco. f About seven and a half miles. THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 179 Cholula. It was ninety feet on each side at the base, and decreased as it advanced in height to a surface of thirty feet square. There were two altars on the summit. Thus much for the history of TenocMitlan. The valley of Mexico, near the center of which lies the capital, is about forty-two miles long and about thirty miles wide. It contains six lakes, which were originally one large lagoon. Their names are — beginning at the south — Xochimilco, Clialco, Texcoco, San Cristobal, Xalto- can, and Zumpango. The last-named lake is the highest, while Texcoco is the lowest and largest. Lake Texcoco has heretofore received the overflow of the others. Their aggregate area is about twenty-two square leagues. The water of these lakes is salt, except Clialco and XocMmilco. They are probably the highest bodies of salt-water in the world. The climate is temperate, the mean annual temperature being 60° Fahr. There is considerable moisture in winter and during the rainy season, from June to September. The most changeable weather occurs in February. May is the hottest month. During the entire year the early morn- ing is cold, the thermometer generally falling to about 40° Fahr., and occasionally sinking below the freezing-point. There are no fireplaces nor hot-air furnaces in the hotels of Mexico, which circumstance renders a stranger uncom- fortable during damp and cold weather. Travelers are cautioned to be extremely careful to avoid taking cold on reaching the capital. Many of the buildings are old, and the doors and windows do not fit tightly. Mexico can hardly be called a healthy city. The great desideratum of the capital is proper drainage. This sub- ject has been investigated by the ablest minds in the coun- try from time immemorial. During the Spanish domi- nation the dikes and causeways often proved insufficient to protect the city from floods. Since the foundation of the 180 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. capital, or since tlie Conquest, there have been five great inundations, viz., in 1553, 1580, 1604, 1G07, and lG29-'34. In 1G07 the Viceroy Salinas began the artificial drain- age of the lakes, by constructing a canal at Huehuetoca, on the northern side of the valley. This canal, or de- sague, is described at length in the section on the Mexican Central Railroad, which now passes through the remains of it. The Indian system of dikes had been temporarily abandoned, and the canal proving a failure, the result was a terrible inundation in 1629, which lasted five years. During this period communication was made by means of canoes, the seat of government was removed to one of the suburbs, trade was at a stand-still, and the distress and misery of the lower classes baffled all description. It was deemed advisable to return to the dike system, which has been preserved ever since. For many years the Plaza mayor was only three or four feet above the level of Lake Texcoco. The level of this lake varies from year to year, and there is now a gauge on tlie Plaza mayor to indicate the height of its waters. Owing to evaporation the surface of the lake is much lower than during the reign of the viceroys. In the winter of 1882-'83 it was about six feet heloiu the Plaza mayor. There are no cellars in the City of Mexico, and . water is reached a few feet below the street-pavement. The soil is so soft that a solidly cemented foundation of lime and stone is used for the larger buildings. In 1882 an American company entered into a contract with the Mexican Government to drain the valley of Mex- ico, agreeing to deposit a bond of $200,000 as a guarantee to carry out the scheme. The last session of Congress, however, declared this contract forfeited on account of the failure to file the bond. It has been suggested that a thorough system of drain- age for the capital would do more harm than good, for the THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 181 reason that the heavier buildings might settle so much as to render them unsafe. The early Spanish historians nar-' rate that, before the Conquest, the valley of Mexico was covered with dense forests. The foreign invaders made war on these forests, as did the Puritans in New England, and to-day, with the exception of the magnificent grove of CMpultejjec, there are only a few rows of trees of recent growth along the causeways.* The houses in the capital are built of heavy masonry, with stairways of stone, and with roofs and floors of brick and cement. Each building includes one or more open court-yards, or patios. The&e patios are either paved with flag-stones, or planted with flowers and shrubbery, and adorned with fountains alid statuary. In the suburbs the dwellings do not generally exceed one story in height, but in the heart of the city they frequently rise to three. The entrance of each house from the street is by a single porte cocjiere, which is closed at night, and attended by a porter, who occupies an adjoining room, and who is held respon- sible for the entries and exits. The capital is virtually fire-proof, it being next to im- possible to set fire to a Mexican house. In dwellings of more than one story, the upper floor, on account of the higher ceilings, is always preferred as a resi- dence, although it commands the highest rents. The ground-floor is commonly occupied for business purposes — e. g., for stables, store-houses, or workshops. Tliere are no aristocratic streets nor quarters in the City of Mexico, the homes of both the upper and lower * The Mexican Government has recently made a contract with Oscar A. Drorge to phmt 2,000,000 trees in the valley of Mexico within four years, 500,000 a year, for $200,000. The contractor agrees to put in annually 80,000 ash, 35,000 willows, 12,000 poplars, 60,000 eucalypti, 60,000 acacias, and other varieties, in plantations of from 50,000 to 100,000 ; and to receive in his nurseries three graduates annually of the Agricultural School. 182 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. classes being scattered oA'er the metropolis, and oftentimes being found under the same roof. The capital is indifferently watered by two aqueducts containing respectively clear and muddy water. The supply is conducted by pipes to numerous tanks and open fountains located in all parts of the city, whence it is distributed for family use by a licensed corps of agua- dores, or water-carriers. Their charges are from two cents to twelve and a half cents a load, according to the distance of the fountain from the place of delivery. The public edifices and business houses are lighted with gas of inferior (piality. In private dwellings kerosene-oil and stearine candles are generally used. Some quarters of the city are illuminated with lamps of gasoline or petro- leum. Eecently, the electric light has been employed on the Plaza mayor and adjacent streets. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral and El Sagrario. 2. The Palace and Maxhnllian's Coach. 3. The Museum {El Musco Nacionat). 4. The Academy of San Carlos. 5. The Slinincj School {Colcffio de Mineria). 6. The Mint {Casa de Moneda). 7. The Church of La Santissima. 8. The Church of Santo Domingo. 9. The Church of La Profcsa. 10. The Church of Santa Teresa. 11. The Church of San Fernando. 12. The Convent of San Francisco. 13. The National Library {La Bibliotcca Nacional). 14. The Park {La Alameda). 15. The Tivoli Gardens. 16. The Drive {Pasco de la Rcforma). lY. The Canal {El Pasco de la Viga). 13. Alva- rado's Leap {El Scdto de Alvarado). 19. The Reform School, In THE Environs. — 1. Chajmltepcc. 2. Atzcapatzcdco &nA the Koche-triste tree. 3. Tacuhaya (Military Academy and private residences). 4. Guadalupe (church and chapel). 5. La Picdad {Al Fresco, the American Club). 6. San Angel. All of which are reached by horse-cars from the Plaza mayor. We have not space enough to give a minute account of each one of the above objects of interest ; accordingly, a brief reference will be made to them in the above order : 1. The tourist should ascend one of the towers (200 feet high) of the Cathedral for a view of the city (fee, one real). This edifice was commenced in 1573, and finished •^ i 1 1 1 1 1 II f' '. 184: CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. in 1G07, at a cost of 61,750,000. It covers a space of about 432 X 200 feet. Tliis Cathedral is the largest in North America. Some of the paintings within are said to be the work of Murillo. The Emperor Iturhide is buried in one of the chapels. The Aztec temple, or teocalli, formerly occupied the site of the Cathedral. The famous Calendab- Stoxe leans against the wall of this building. It is twelve feet in diameter, three feet thick, and weighs twenty-five tons. The Sagrario has a beautifully carved fa9ade. Just east of it is a monument erected to the memory of the dis- tinguished engineer Enrico Martinez, which contains a gauge to register the level of Lake Texcoco iu the pedestal. 2. The Palace, which is built on the site of that of Montezuma, is the largest building in Mexico, the front measuring 675 feet. It contains the Embassadors' Hall, or Sola de Emhajadores, and Maximilian's Coach. The for- mer is a room about 310x30 feet, with a throne at the southern end for the President and his Cabinet. It has, among other objects, full-length portraits by Segredo and other Mexican artists of the heroes of the War of Inde- pendence, such as Hidalgo, Morelos, Allende, and others ; also portraits of Juarez, Diaz, and Washingtoti, and a large painting of the great battle of Puebla, of May 5, 1862. Maximiliax's Coach is in a room on the ground-floor, near the center of the Palace. The body of the vehicle is painted dark red. The wheels are gilded, and the interior is lined with white-silk brocade, with trimmings of heavy silver thread. There is no other coach of equal magnifi- cence in the Western World. It surpasses in elegance the imperial carriages of Eussia. Strangers should not fail to see it. The doors of the Embassadors' Hall and of the room containing the coach are always locked. The keys may be obtained at the office of the Governor of the Pal- ace, which is near the middle door of the facade. (A fee of one real should be j)aid to the mozo who shows THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 185 the traveler the coach, and two reales to the servant who opens the door of the Sola de Embaj adores.) The Cathedral and Palace are situated, on the Plaza mayor, in the center of which is the zocalo. 3. The Museum contains the sacrificial stone and many idols on the ground-floor; and Maximilian's sil- ver service, several portraits, a large col- lection of Mexican cu- riosities, chiefly pot- tery, and photographs of the ruins of Yuca- tan and Chia2MS, are found on the second story. It is to be regretted that the latter part of the Museum is open to the public only on Quetzalcoatl. Feathered Serpent. These Mols are in thepnfWo of the Museum. 186 CITIES AND EOUTES OF TRAVEL. Sundays from 10 a, m. to 1 p. m., Tuesdays from 10 a. m. to 12 M., and Thursdays from 3 to 5 p. m. The court-yard is always open to visitors. The sacri- ficial stone {Piedra de los sacrificios) is tlie principal ob- ject of interest. It is 8f feet in diameter, 2f feet high, and 27^ feet in circumference. It was found in the Plaza mayor on December 17, 1791. The num- ber of human beings sacrificed on this celebrated stone is estimated at sixty thousand! The manner of sacrifice was as follows : The victim was made to lie down, his feet and hands were held by four priests in gaudy attire, while a fifth pierced his breast with a razor of itztli, or volcanic glass. The latter then inserted his hand into the wound, and, tearing out the heart, threw it at the foot of the adjoining idol. The reader is referred to Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, pages 74-86, ' ,_ for a full descrip- tion of human sac- S^-^^_^ rifices. We have not space to de- scribe the serpent- idols and other objects, the number of which is forty-seven. Small catalogues in Spanish are sold at the door. It may be said that the collections made by M. Charnay in South- ern Mexico, through the liberality of Pierre Lorillard, Esq., of New York, are in the museum, although not on exhibi- tion, with the exception of a few objects. It was the pur- Tcoyaomiqui. ^ J «ir'.^M< ' THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 187 pose of M. Charnay to send his collections of antiquities to Paris, but the Mexican Congress refused to pass a bill allowing the articles to be taken out of the country. 4. The Academy of San" Carlos is the only academy of the tine arts in the country, except one at Guadalajara. It contains a large number of paintings and some plaster casts of well-known statues. Most of the pictures are the work of foreign artists, such as Zurlaran, Murillo, Ru- hens, Correggio, and Velasquez. Some of them have been painted by Mexicans, and possess considerable merit. The principal native artists are Jose and Luis Juarez, Cahrera, Parra, and Baltazar de Ecliave. Unfortunately, there is no catalogue of the pictures. An art-school is connected with the academy. ( Vide Chapter XXII.) 5. The Mining School was considered by Humboldt as one of the finest buildings in the country. It occupies a lot 300 X 340 feet, and has collections of rocks, minerals, and fossils, chiefly from Mexico. It cost 11,500,000. 6. The Mint is the oldest in Mexico. It is open from 8 A. M. to 5 p. M, 7. The Church of La Santissima is noted for the ex- quisite carvings on the faQade. 8. The Church of Santo Domingo, in a square of the same name, possesses beautiful gilt wood-work, some old paintings, and a wooden model of the Saviour, in a recum- bent attitude, and wearing a crown of thorns. Persons entering the church kiss the toe of this figure in the same manner as devout Roman Catholics kiss the statue of St. Peter at Eome. A table stands near the image to receive offerings ilimosnas). The ruins of a convent, overgrown with weeds, are in the rear of the church. The Custom- Ilouse and Medical School are situated on the eastern side of the Plaza de Santo Domingo. The latter was once used by the Inquisition, and it now has a library and anatomical museum. 188 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 11. The Cliurcli of San Feenando contains tlie ashes of the unfortunate Generals Mejia and Miramon. 16. The Paseo de la Reforma (sometimes called El Paseo de BucareU), or "Empress Drive," leads from the Alameda to Chapultepec. Statues of diaries IV oi Spain, Christojiher Columhus, and President Juarez, have been erected on the Paseo. The fashionable hour for driving is from 5 to 6 P. m. 17. The Canal, adjoining the Paseo de la Viya, pre- sents a busy scene in the early morning. The Indians bring their fruits and vegetables to market, and the canal is crowded with their rafts and canoes. The tourist should hire a canoe and visit either Lake Texcoco, about three miles distant, or the " vegetable " gardens, a mile and a half from the terminus of the " Viga " horse-car track. A party of three or four persons may emj^loy an Indian to i3addle them to the gardens for the sum of one dollar. There is no tariff of charges, and a bargain must be made. Sailing through the narrow canals cut in the marshy soil, where fruits, vegetables, and flowers grow abundantly, the traveler may form some idea of the ancient aspect of the Venice of the New World. The cMnampas, or so-called floating isl- ands, which have always excited the wonder of foreigners, are never seen at the present day. They were formed of small masses of earth, covered with herbs, and held togeth- er by roots, and were detached from the shore of the lagoon by the waves during stormy weather. These gardens are known to have been in use as far back as the end of the fourteenth century. They were afterward artificially con- structed by making rafts of reeds, rushes, roots, and brush- wood, and covering these with black mold naturally im- pregnated with muriate of soda, but gi-adually purified from the salt and rendered fertile by washing it with the water of the lake. Some of the cMnampas were movable and driven about by the winds, but others were anchored or at- TEE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 189 tached to the shore, and were towed or pushed with poles from one spot to another. The Indians occasionally built huts on these chinampas, and are said to haye raised vege- tables on them. 18. Alvaeado's Leap is marked by a small bridge in the Calle de los Hombres Ilustres, just west of the Alame- da. The San Cosine horse-cars pass the spot. This street was formerly a causeway leading from the capital toward the mainland, over which the Spaniards passed in the evacuation of the city on the memorable noche triste, or "sad night" of July 1, 1520, The portable bridge over a breach in the causeway had been destroyed, and Alvarado, unwilling to plunge into the waters of the lake, paused upon the brink for a moment. Eesting his long lance on the ground, he succeeded in leaping across the gap, to the great astonishment of both the Spaniards and Aztecs. This place has ever since been known as the Salto de Alvarado. As the width of the breach is not given by the chroniclers of the time, the reader can have no means of judging how skillful a pole-vaulter this Spanish warrior may have been. A card of admission must be obtained at the Palace for permission to enter the castle of Chapultepec* During the French invasion the castle was occupied by Maximilian, that personator of Napoleon's dream of empire in the West- ern AVorld. The view from Chajndtepec is one of surpass- ing beauty, and the grounds contain a magnificent grove consisting chiefly of cedars draped with Spanish moss. One of the trees has been named after Montezuma. The stranger is advised to hire an open carriage by the hour, and drive to Cliaipultcpec and the neighboring town of Tacnhaya, visiting the Military School and stately villas if possible. The celebrated Noche-triste tree is situated in the vil- lage of Popotla, near an old church. Cortes is said to have * ChapuUepcc means " grasshopper's hill." 190 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. sat under this tree and cried over his misfortunes, after the disastrous retreat of the Spaniards during the night of the evacuation. The tree is known to the Indians as the ahueliuete, and is called a sabino in Spanish. It is a species of cedar, and is ten feet in diameter at the hase and The jS'oche-trists Tree. about forty feet high. An iron railing surrounds it. The Atzcapotzalco horse-ears run through the Riviera de San Cosine, passing Alvarado\s Leap, the houses of the foreign legations, the Tivoli Gardens, the School of Agriculture, the Tlaxpana aqueduct, and the noche-trisie tree, before THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 191 reaching their destination. This aqueduct was built by the Spaniards, and contains the agua delgada, or soft water. It has nine hundred arches of about fifteen feet in height, each of which is said to have cost $1,000. At San Cosme the aqueduct terminates, and the water is conducted under- ground in pipes to the heart of the city. The causeway that leads to Popotla and Atzcapotzalco is bordered on either side with a deep ditch into which the water drains and becomes stagnant. The surrounding re- gion, which is now much lower than the causeway, was formerly a part of the great Mexican lagoon. Many of Cortes's soldiers were drowned here on the ''sad night." The suburb of GtUADALUPE is remarkable for its cathe- dral and chapel. It is reached by horse-cars from the Plaza mayor in about thirty minutes. The cathedral is a massive brick edifice, with four towers around a central dome. Tlie interior is noted for the solid silver railing, about three feet high, which leads from the choir to the high altar and extends around the edge of the latter. The famous picture of the Virgin hangs in the high altar. The choir is adorned with artistic wooden carvings, and there is a large organ on each side of it. There are a great many ex-votos hung on the wall of the cathedral near the main entrance. They are principally cheap oil-paintings and wax-work. The sanctuary of Guadalupe is, perhaps, the most cele- brated in the Eepublic, and the story of how it was built and named after Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe is interest- ing. The tradition is as follows : An Indian called Juan Diego worked in the vicinity of Guadalupe. On one occa- sion, while crossing the hill of Tepeyacac that rises behind the town, he saw a rainbow, in the middle of which was a beautiful woman encompassed by a white cloud. Upon approaching the figure, the Indian was told that she was the mother of God. The Virgin said that she desired a 14 THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. I93 temple to be built in that place, and that she would render aid and protection to all believers who would call upon her when in trouble. She further commanded him to report to the Bishop of Mexico what had taken place. The Indian did as he was directed, but Zumarraga, who was then bishop, discredited his statement. The Virgin appeared to the In- dian several times afterward, and on one occasion ordered him to pick flowers from the barren mountain and take them to the bishop. Accordingly, he gathered beautiful flowers where none had previously grown, and carried them in his tilma or cloak to the episcopal palace. After telling his story, the Indian dropped the flowers on the floor, when suddenly the bishop fell on his knees at the sight of the image of the Blessed Virgin, that appeared to be painted on the cloak of Juan Diego. A long poem has been written on this miraculous ap- pearance of the Virgin, and it is sold in book-form at the door of the cathedral. Eibbons of various colors, givino- the size of the head of Our Lady of Guadalupe, are also offered for sale. A high mass is celebrated on the 12th day of every month, and on the 12th of December a great religious festival takes place, which is attended by persons from all parts of the Republic. It is the anniversary of the day upon which the Virgin first appeared to Juan Diego. Among the illustrious dead buried in this cathe- dral are the Viceroy Bucareli and Colonel Obregon. The original flag that was carried by Hidalgo in 1810 is de- posited here. The chapel of Guadalupe is situated on a hill directly behind the cathedral. A good view of the valley of Mex- ico may be obtaiued from the fa§ade of the former. The famous Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed at this place on the 2d of February, 1848. The battle-fields of ChapuUcpec, Molino del Bey, and Churuhusco, lie a few miles south of the capital. A hand- 194 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. some stone monument has been erected, by Generals Diaz and Gonzalez, near the castle of Chapulte2)ec, to the mem- ory of the heroes of the war of 1847. The tourist will have some difficulty in finding his way about the streets of the City of Mexico, as each block has a different name. Some streets have the same appellation for two or three squares, with a number added to each one — e. g., la, 2da, and Sra de San Francisco. The principal business thoroughfare is the Ccdle de Pla- teros, which leads from the Plaza mayor toward the Ala- meda. The finest shops in Mexico are on this street ; English and French are spoken in some of them. Several new buildings are being erected, and others improved, in this part of the city. A walk through the colonnades known as the Portal Mercaderes will be found interesting. The military band plays in the adjoining zocalo four evenings in the week. Strangers will be pleased with the variety of Mexican costumes seen in the public squares. The black-cloth suits ornamented with silver buttons, and broad-brimmed felt hats with silver bands, are the most jDicturesque of all. A great deal of pulque is consumed in the national cap- ital, and the traveler will meet many intoxicated persons on the street. It is said that there are two thousand shops, or pulquerias, in the city, at which thirty thousand gallons of pulque are consumed daily. If the tourist has but a single day to spend in the cap- ital, he should visit the Cathedral, Palace, Museum, Acad- emy of San Carlos, Church of Santo Domingo, Paseo de la Reforma, Chapultepec, and go to the opera in the evening. There is some kind of opera, either French, Sjianish, or Italian, nearly all the year round. |i|i|iiiiiiiw;)'r(ai '^w WF' ibliliiiliiiAiiiiiiiiili'iiilili ^ 196 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. EXCURSIONS AROUND THE CAPITAL. We Tvould advise the tourist to leave his trunk at some hotel in the City of Mexico, and make short trips in all directions. The best excursions are as follows : 1. From Mexico to Celaya via Mexican Central Railroad, and return via Maravatio and Toluca. This route is described in Sections IV and V. 2. To the Pyramids of San Jcan Teotihdacan. Distance, 25 miles. Take the morning train to the station of the same name on the Mexican Eailway, and walk or drive to the pyramids, about two miles distant. The larger one is dedicated to the Sun, and the other is called the pyramid of the Moon. An extensive view may be had from the summit of the former. The valley of Mexico is clearly seen, and in the distant south the Nevado de Toluca is visible. (See chapter on ruins for a complete description of the teocalUs.) There are no hotel accommodations at San Juan TeoWiuacan. A bad fondita may be found in the town, but the traveler is recommended to carry provisions with him from the capi- tal, and return by the afternoon train. 3. From Mexico to Pachl'ca. Distance, YO miles. Pacliuca contains some of the oldest mines in the Eepub- lic. Many of them were worked long before the Spanish Conquest. The town lies in the State of Hidalgo, and is reached by rail from the City of Mexico to Ometusco, and thence by a branch line (:28-j miles). There is a govern- mental school of practical mining here. Tlie population of Pacliuca is about 13,000, of which 5,000 are miners, and the altitude, as measured by Humboldt, is 8,150 feet. A great many Coruishmen are employed here, although this mining district is one out of a very few in which Euro- pean or American miners have been introduced. Pacliuca contains about one hundred and fiftv mines, and Peal del THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 197 Monte has seventy-five of them. The ore is composed mainly of blackish silver suliDhides. Several English com- panies have established themselves in Facliuca, and an American company has recently been organized to work the tailings of some of the older mines. It is highly prob- able that improved mining machinery will soon be nsed in this district. Compressed cakes of English coal are im- ported at the rate of $22 a ton ! It is said that a valuable dejDOsit of coal has lately been discovered in the A'icinity. Excursions may easily be made from PacJnica to the ad- joining mining town of Real del Monte (elevation, 9,057 feet), and to the town and cascade of Regla, and also to the village of El Cliico. 4. From Mexico to Ccernavaca. Distance, 47 miles by diligence. Fare, $4.50. Time, nine and a half hom-s. Stage-coaches run three times a week. Leaving Mexico, the road leads over a causeway, bor- dered with a row of poplars on either side, to the suburb of Tlalpam, about seven miles distant. A horse-car track runs parallel with the road. Thence the route turns to the southeast, and lies over a sandy region as far as the end of the valley of Mexico. The lofty mountain of Ajusco is seen on the west, and the Lake of Xochimilco on the east. The diligence now begins to ascend the pass leading through the ridge which forms the southern boundary of the plateau of Anahiiac. The roadway is smooth, and kept in good order as far as the summit, and the grade is moderate. As the stage-coach climbs the winding pass, the tourist soon obtains a beauti- ful view of the valley of Mexico, whose surface is dotted with various extinct volcanoes, and the several lakes that have already been mentioned. Picturesque villages are scattered over the oval-shaped plain. Proceeding farther, the traveler enters a region cov- THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 199 ered with thick grass, interspersed with pines and spruces, reminding him of a northern flora. Many pack-trains of burros, or donkeys, are seen on the road. They carry, prin- cipally, fruit and vegetables to the capital. The diligence stops for lunch at a hamlet on the ridge-line, where the road is level for about two miles. Soon the summit of the pass is reached, the spot being marked by a stone cross, which is said to have been erected by Cortes. This cross marks the northern boundary-line of the grant of Montezuma to the Conqueror. According to the measurement of an ane- roid barometer, the elevation of this point is 9,540 feet. The road now descends gradually. It is. stony, and much rougher than the northern portion of the route. Fortunately for tourists, however, this highway is undergo- ing repairs, and is already the best and, perhaps, the oldest line of travel for diligences in the Eepublic. As the ob- server continues on his journey down-hill, he will see the distant city of Cuernavaca on the south. The city lies on a mesa, or natural terrace, beyond which is a broad valley running east and west. The coach soon reaches another hamlet, and the animals are changed for the last time. Five mules, instead of eight, are sufficient to draw the vehicle over the rapidly descend- ing grade, and in about an hour the tourist arrives at his destination. CUERNAVACA. "^ Population, 16,320. Elevation, 5,380 feet, according to Humboldt. Hotels. — San Pedro and Del Fenix, both on the plaza. Baths, one block north of the San Pedro. Places of Interest. — 1. Gortes's Palace. 2. The Parochial Church. 3. The Church of Guadalupe. 4. The Borda Gardens. 5. Maximilian's villa at Acapancin.ffo. , Cuernavaca, the capital of the State of Morelos, was originally called Quauhnahuac {i. e., near the beautiful hills), a term given to it by the Tlahuicox, who were the 200 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. founders of tlie city. It was conquered by the Spaniards in April, 1521. Both of the foreign usurpers, Cortes and Maximilian, made this place their favorite winter resort. Cortes's Palace is now used as a court-house, and has been rebuilt since the Independence of Mexico. The Bor- da Gardens, once very beautiful, are in ruins. They are on the western edge of the town, and are worthy of a visit. Maximilian's villa is now used as a school-house. It is called El Colegio de Ninas. A handsome garden adjoins the villa, but it is not in good condition. Cotton, coffee, bananas, and palms, besides flowers, grow here. The unfor- tunate emperor occupied this place from January to Octo- ber, in 1866. He is said to have built the charming villa at his own expense. The snow-clad mountains of Popo- catepetl and Iztaccihuatl are in full view, and lie about twenty-five miles to the eastward. The village of Acapa7icingo is situated about one mile and a half southeast of Cuernavaca. There was once a good wagon-road thither, but now it is practicable only for horsemen and pedestrians. Much sugar-cane is grown in the neighborhood, and a crop may be reaped within twelve montlis after planting the cuttings. The tourist should visit the temple or fortress of Xochi- calco, which is one of the most remarkable remains on Mexican soil. It lies eighteen miles from Cuernavaca, on a rocky eminence, almost a league in circumference, which IS cut into terraces faced with stone. The building on the summit is seventy-five by sixty-six feet in area. It is of hewn granite, and was constructed in the usual pyramidal- terraced form. A few years ago this temple was used as a sugar-refinery. An excursion may be taken from Cuernavaca to the famous cave of CacaMiamilpa, which lies in a limestone re- gion, about forty miles south of the city. It can be reached THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 201 by wagon or horseback. As no hotel accommodations are to be had, the tourist is advised to carry blankets and pro- visions for three days. The cave has not yet been fnlly ex- plored. A trip to Tasco (fifty-four miles distant) may also be made from Guernavaca. The town contains silver-mines that were worked before the Conquest. It has also a beau- tiful parish church. The altitude of Tasco is 5,852 feet, according to Humboldt. 5. From Mexico to Cuautla. This excursion may include the great volcano of Popo- catepetl. (The entire route is described in Section VIII.) Indian Hut in the Tierra Caliente. SECTION IV. The Mexican National Railway. (For description of this railway, see Part First, Chap- ter I.) We will first sketch the western branch of this railway, from Mexico to Manzanillo, on the Pacific coast, and then give an account of the northern route, from Acamharo Junction to Laredo and Corpus Christi. The region adja- cent to the railroad, and connections by stage and horseback with stations along the line, will be described in detail. Route L FROM THE CITY OF MEXICO TO MANZANILLO. 1. Mexico to Toluca. 2. Toluca to Maravatio. 3. Maravatio to Morelia. 4. Morelia to Pdtzcuaro and thence to Manzanillo. 5. Pdtzcuaro via Ario to Jorullo. I. From Mexico to Toluca, TS kilometres, or 45J miles. Time, Z\ hours. Two passenger-trains daily. Take left-hand side of the train for view. Leaving the station of Colonia, the line passes over the fertile plain of Mexico. The castle of Chapultepec is seen on the left. The first station is Union de Taenia (4-59 kilometres) ; the next station is Union de Naucalpan (8*62 kilometres). Now the land begins to rise, and the grade soon becomes very heavy. Passing the hamlet of San Bar- tola (9 '18 kilometres), we reach Rio Hondo (14"28 kilome- 3Iayni'ij PlantatioiiH, San Fnntciscito District. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 203 tres), where the elevation is 7,550 feet, or 203 feet above the capital. The track soon enters the foot-hills of the ridge forming the western boundary of the valley of Mexico. There are many cuts through the alluvial drift and clay. Nopales, or cactus-trees, are very common in the vicinity of the line of the railroad. After passing Rio Hondo a heavy grade begins. The train crosses gulches, with roaring brooks at the bottom. On the northern side of the track, and near the station of San Bartolito (22*09 kilometres), traces of an ancient aque- duct are seen. We soon pass through a cut in granite rock, and then stop at the station of Dos Rios (27*15 kilometres). The road now enters a picturesque valley half a mile in breadth, where some maize is grown. The farms are di- vided by long hedges of the maguey, which appear to take the place of fences. The natives cover the roofs of their huts with heavy stones, to prevent the wind from blowing them away. The traveler will observe towers about ten feet high adjoining the houses. They are cribs for storing corn, and are called cincolotes. This region has a sparse poiDulation ; only a few huts of stone and straw are to be seen. The track skirts the sides of enormous ravines or harrancas. The next station is Via de Escape Tunnel (30*46 kilometres). We can now look across the valley, where the track is much higher than our place of observation. After passing through the tunnel and winding round long curves, having in places a compen- sated grade of about four per cent, the tourist, on glancing back, will have a fine view of the distant valley of Mexico, with the stately capital and picturesque sierras beyond. The famous home of the Aztecs appears to be surrounded by lakes. The valley below the line of the railroad bears the name of San Lazar, and the hamlet on the hill bound- ing the south side of the cafion is called San Franciscito. We next reach the station of Escape de San Martin (35*30 204 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. kilometres). Tho pines, spruces, and other trees of a stunted character, remind the traveler that he has ascend- ed to a great elevation. Leaving the valle}' and going through several cuts in the solid rock, the train arrives at Cima, or Summit (39*13 kilometres). This is the highest point of the railroad, and would be called the "divide" by Americans. Its elevation is 9,974 feet above tide-water. It is the highest railway-station in Mexico. The brook on the south side of the track, which the tourist has just passed, is the Rio Hondo. It flows into the valley of Mexico ; while the little stream on the north side of the railroad is the south fork of the Rio Lerma (one of the largest rivers of the Eepublic), which, after traversing the States of Mexico, Miclioacan, and Guanajuato, empties into the Lake of Cliapala. The rock at Cima is a reddish trachyte, and is used to ballast the track. The road now crosses a flat, grassy plateau. The next station is Salazar (41 "29 kilometres). There is a bar as well as a lunch-room in the station. The scenery in the vicinity closely resembles that of the Eocky Mountains. The pines and spruces attain a considerable height. The grade soon begins to descend, and the view henceforth is better on the right-hand side of the car. The train follows the course of the Rio Lerma, crosses the old stage-road, and arrives at the station Camino de Toluca (44*51 kilometres). The tourist may now see the majestic snow-clad mountain, the JYevado de Toh(ca, an extinct volcano, 15,156 feet high, and about twenty miles distant. The track crosses a bridge built over a ravine. An aque- duct has been constructed at the bottom, to carry the water of the Rio Lerma to the flour-mill at Jajalpa. Soon the station of Jajalpa (51*24 kilometres) is reached. Here the elevation is 8,872 feet. It is worthy of remark that one of the few steam flo^^r-mills in the counti-y is found at this town. Wood is brought from the neighboring hills for THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 205 fuel. Fine wheat grows here, and the maguey is also cul- tivated. The track now winds round many long curves, and presently a grand view of the broad valley of Toluca is obtained. Looking out of the car- window, the observer may see the line of the road far below him. The next station is Camino de Ocoyoacac (55*40 kilo- metres). The train runs along the side of the mountains, and soon the town of Ocoyoacac is seen in the plain below. The streets are well laid out, and there is considerable stir on the plaza, but the church is by far the most conspicu- ous object, as it is in other Mexican and Spanish towns. We now arrive at the station of Lerma (59*55 kilometres). The elevation of this place is 8,456 feet. The houses of Lerma are built of adobe, with tile roofs. Much maguey is grown in the vicinity. The pulque from the valley of To- luca is famous. The road runs over the plain for about eight miles, and the next station is Toluca, 73 kilometres from the capital. This place, with perhaps the exception of Ameca-meca, in the State of Mexico, is the city of the highest altitude in the Eepublic, being 8,653 feet above the sea-level. The Nevaclo de Toluca, an extinct volcano several miles to the south, is the most prominent feature in the landscape for many miles. This mountain is often cloud-capped. TOLUCA. Population, 11,500. Hotels. — Gran Sociedad, Espagnol, Hidalgo, and BcUa Union. There are also several restaurants and cafes. Baths, in the Calle de Victoria. Teatro principal, behind the Hotel Gran Sociedad. Places of Interest. — 1. Carmen church and monastery. 2. Church of Vera Cr^tz. 3. Plaza de los Martiros, where a monument in white marble, about twelve feet high, has been erected to the great patriot Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. 4. Falacio Municipal. 5. The Pasco. Toluca is a well-built and thriving town. The streets are clean and well drained. The tourist may obtain a 206 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. correct idea of tlie topograpliy of Tuluca and environs by walking up the hill on the southwestern side of the city. It is not more than fifteen minutes' walk from the principal hotels. A pleasant excursion may be made to the Nevada de Toluca (15,156 feet high). This mountain is always snow- clad, but in winter it is covered with snow for about one third of the way down from the summit. There is a ranch on the ridge, just below the timber-line, where the traveler can pass the night. A very extensive view may be obtained from the top of the volcano. On a clear day the Pacific Ocean, one hundred and sixty miles distant, is visible ; and it is said that the Gulf of Mexico can even be seen with a powerful field-glass. Baron von Humboldt ascended tlie peak of Toluca on the 29th of September, 1803, and measured the height of the mountain by the barometer. He states that the highest point, the Pico del Fraile, is difficult of ascent, and the very top is scarcely ten feet wide.* Humboldt found the rock to be a combination of oligoclase and hornblende (diorite). Two entire days will be required to climb the Nevada de Toluca — i. e., from the city of Toluca and hach. The traveler should take provis- ions, blankets, guides, and horses sufficient for the Journey. 2. From Toluca to Maravatio, 150 kilometres, or 93 miles. Time, 5 hours. Leaving Toluca, the road continues due west along the broad valley. Much wheat is grown in the vicinity. One farmer sold seventy-seven thousand dollars' worth last year (1882). The next station is Del Rio (97 kilometres). The railway-station is in a freight-car on a siding. The line soon winds along the bank of the Rio Lerma, with bluffs of a clayey limestone on one side. We pass through the tunnel of Ixtlaliuaca, and reach the station of * Sec Cosmos, vol. v, p. 376. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 207 the same name (111* 50 kilometres). Here the elevation is 8,423 feet. The town lies about a mile north of the track. The traveler may see the boundary-line of the States of Mexico and MicJioacan near by. Stone monuments about three feet high are placed in the ground every thousand yards. One of them is very close to the railroad. Pres- ently the line crosses the Rio Lerma and continues through a fertile country. Good pastures for cattle abound here, and the tourist can see many fine haciendas from the car- window. The track has usually been laid some distance from the hamlets and villages. Hogs are raised in con- siderable numbers on the estates along the line of the To- luca and Maravatio division of the National Eailway, and yet no one has had the enterprise to put up hams for do- mestic use. The natives seem to prefer to import Ameri- can hams at 50 cents and those of Westphalia at 62^ cents a pound. It is believed that hams could be sent from Toluca to the capital and sold at a handsome profit for 20 cents a pound. This is only one out of many business chances that await the American or European settler in Mexico. Flor de Maria (133 '90 kilometres) is the next station. Here the conductor calls out in English, "Half an hour for dinner." When this division of the road was com- pleted, the restaurant consisted of a freight-car, with the kitchen in an adjoining car on a siding. A station cost- ing 15,000 has since been erected. Six reales is the price charged. We soon come to the station of La Jordana (149-90 kilometres). The next station is El Ore (164 kilometres), where the elevation is 8,344 feet. There are mines containing gold and silver on the hill-side about four miles southwest of this place, A New York com- pany owns tliem. A forty-stamp mill has been erected at great cost, owing to the machinery having been trans- ported, first over the Mexican Railway with its enormous 15 208 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRA VEL. rates, and then by wagon-road to Bl Oro. The ore is worked in the same manner as in California. The country rock is slate. The main shaft of the mines at El Oro is now full of water, and steam-pumps are about to be used to raise it. Gold-mines are found also at Tlalpujahua, nine miles from Bl Oro station. A stage-coach runs to them. These mines are among the oldest in Mexico, and were worked before the Conquest. It may be remarked that there is a great deal of undeveloped mineral wealth in the State of Michoacan. The well-known mining districts of Trojes, Chapatuato, Ozumatlan, and Sinda, can be reached in two days on horseback. The ores of gold and silver with a quartz gangue occur here. But, as the tourist will have difficulty in procuring horses and provisions at El Oro, the journey to these mining districts can be made more easily from Morelia, the capital of the State. Keturning to the railroad, take the left-hand side of the train for the view after leaving El Oro. We now cross the State line again, as the track is built partly in the State of Mexico and partly in Michoacan. The next gtation is Canon (167-70 kilometres). Near by the tourist may see the ruins of a stone dam, where a supply of water was formerly stored for the benefit of cattle and sheep grazing in the vicinity. Soon the road-bed begins to descend rapidly and enters the Canon de los Zopilotes, or Turkey-Buzzard Canon. The creek of El Salio runs through the cafion and forms a cascade, which is a grand sight in the rainy season. The track has been blasted out of the solid basalt rock, and is a skillful piece of engineering. The cafion is about a mile long, and the observer on looking down may see a trail at the bottom running along the course of the roaring tor- rent. Trails are very common all over Mexico, as horse- back-riding has been the principal means of communica- tion up to the jircscnt day. Nearly every canon, valley, THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 209 -and plain can be traversed by a bridle-path. The railroad soon makes a sharp turn, and leaves the Canon de los Zopi- lotes. The grade is still very heavy. A fine view of the broad and fertile valley below presents itself to the eye, and the observer will soon notice a cliff about two hundred feet high, on the right-hand side of the track, called the Salto de Medina. The cliff was so named after Medina, the chief of a noted band of brigands. He had been pursued to the edge of the precipice, and, finding escape impossible, blinded his mule with a zarape, and, spurring his animal, Jumped off the cliff to prevent the officers of the law from capturing him. The line now runs along the side of the broad valley, making several long curves, and reaches the station of Solis (176-50 kilometres). The country is cov- ered with basaltic rock, and tanks for watering live-stock are seen in places. Tepetongo is the next station (185 '70 kilometres), and has an elevation of 7,652 feet. The region is overgrown with ?^o;J«/-trees and the bush known as 7mi- sachi, resembling the mesquite. After passing the station of Pomoca (205*50 kilometres), we reach Maravatio (223*20 kilometres). The elevation of this town is 6,612 feet, and the population is about 10,000. {lloiel, Diligencias.) The town lies in a broad, grassy plain, surrounded by ridges of mountains. There is nothing of special interest to the traveler here. Maravatio is eleven hours' Journey from the City of Mexico. Another and shorter route from the capital to this town has been surveyed — i. e., the continu- ation of the division of El Salto, the line running north- ward from tlie capital, via Tlalnepantla, Cuautitlan, and Huelmetoca, to the station of El Salto, 67*29 kilometres from the capital. On November 1, 1883, only four kilo- metres of this line were constructed beyond El Salto. The Mexican Central Railway also runs to El Salto, and the country adjoining the latter road will be described in Sec- tion V. 210 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 3. From Maratatio to Morelia, 155 kilometres, or 96 miles. Tlio track from Maravatio to Acamiaro was finished in February, 1883. The distance is 63 kilometres. The line of the railway is several miles to the eastward of the old diligence-road. The stations are, Zirizicuaro (22 '34 kilo- metres), Tarandiicuao (31"3-i kilometres), /Siffw Jo.se (41 "34 kilometres), and Acambaro (63 kilometres). The region traversed by the route is not much cultivated, and there are only three hamlets along the line. Basaltic rock cov- ers the country, and there is but little vegetation besides the nopal, kuisacki, mesquite, and j??>?< trees. Much wheat and Indian corn could be produced here, but at present very little is grown. The train reaches Acamiaro in about two hours. ACAMBARO. Elevation, 6.i)S4 feet at the railroad-junction; population, about 10,000. Hotel. — Xacional, one block from the plaza. The town lies in a broad valley. The western division of the Mexican National Eailway joins the main line at Acambaro. The main line extends northward to Celaya, via San Cristobal and Salvatierra, a distance of 43 miles, and thence via San Luis Potosi and Monterey to the front- ier. The western division runs to MoreVia, 57 miles dis- tant, and thence to Pdtzcuaro, 96 miles, or 155 kilometres. It is proposed to build this branch road via Colima to Man- zanillo on the Pacific coast. If the tourist does not wish to travel farther westward, he can take the train to Celaya, which is on the line of the Mexican Central Eailway, and return to the capital by the latter road, thus making a round trip from Mexico that will give him an excellent idea of the agricultural and mineral resources of a part of the region traversed by the two principal American trunk lines. The division of the National Eailway to Morelia was opened on September 12, 1883. THE MEXICAN NATION AL RAILWAY. 211 Leaving Acambaro, the road trends over the plain tc the south, and then goes southwestward for several miles, when the picturesque Lake of Cuitzeo is seen. The level of this lake is 6,021 feet, or 63 feet lower than Acambaro. Lake Cuitzeo is about 18 miles long, and affords good fishing. There are several islets in the lake, and it is surrounded by low hills. The stations are Summit Siding (14 kilometres), Andocutin (31*50 kilometres), Huingo (38 "50 kilometres), Querendaro (49 kilometres), Quirio (63 kilometres), Cliaro (74 kilometres). La Goleta (76 kilometres), Atapaneo (80 kilometres), and 3Iorelia (92 kilometres). MOEELIA. Population, about 20,400. Elevation, 6,202 feet. Hotels. — Solcdad and Diligencias. Baths. — Bel Becreo, and in the Hotel Soledad. The city lies in a basin. It is the capital of the State of Miclioacan, is well built, and has clean streets. There is not much wealth in Morelia, but a large number of the inhabitants are well-to-do. At the present time a few build- ings are in course of erection, especially the College of San Jose, with an ornamental fa9ade. Many of the houses are built of a pinkish trachyte, which is brought from a quarry about a mile from the city. This stone, however, does not weather well, and, after exposure to the atmosphere for a few years, the buildings made of it ajapear to be quite old. ]\Iost of the dwelling-houses are of one story, while, on the main street and near the iMza, many of the shops are in buildings having two and sometimes three stories. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral (well worth seeing). 2. The Palace. 3. The Paseo. 4. Several of the churches may be visited to ad- vantage, if the tourist is not pressed for time. The Cathedral occupies an entire block, and is built in the Spanish renaissance style. The wood-work of the choir 212 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. (coro) is finely carved. Formerly the passage-way from the choir to the high altar was inclosed with a silver railing, but during the revolution the Liberals entered the edifice and confiscated the precious metal. The silver doors on the tabernacles of the side chapels still remain. The fonts are of Mexican onyx, brought from PuehJa, three hundred miles distant. It is said that the Cathedral received upward of $4,000,000 from the owners of mines in the neighborhood (at Ozumatlan), between the years 1758 and 1858. The inhabitants of Morelia worship the outside as well as the inside of the Cathedral, and it is customary for men to re- move their hats while passing it. The stranger renders himself liable to insult if he fails to observe tliis usage. A Mexican peasant will often kneel in passing this holy of holies. In Morelia, as in some other cities, the people gen- erally bow to the priest, or pach'e, whether they know him or not. When the priest wishes to administer the last rites of the Church to a person in articulo mortis, he repairs to the house in a close carriage, drawn by two white mules. It is usual to kneel in the streets while this carriage is passing, and the tourist will give great offense to the by-standers if he does not conform to this practice. Before the overthrow of the clerical party, the host was borne through the streets by a sort of procession, arranged as follows : First, a man with a bell ; then the coach containing the sacrament, or es- tufa; then six attendants on each side of it, carrying large lanterns or torches ; and three soldiers in the rear. Protestants have often been mobbed or arrested, and in a few cases killed, for refusing to kneel on the approach of the host. The late Bishoj) Haven relates that, in the year 1824, in the City of Mexico, an American shoemaker was at work on his bench, near the doorway, on the first floor of a house. Presently the bell announced the coming of the priest bear- ing the host. A Mexican stepped into this doorway, and, kneeling on the floor, turned to see if the shoemaker was THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 213 following his example. The cobbler had dropped his tools, and was kneeling on the top of his bench, when the zealous Catholic requested that he should get down and kneel on the floor. The American refused to do so, whereupon the Mexican drew his knife and inflicted a mortal wound on him. The news spread rapidly through the city, and it was only at the risk of the life of an American clergyman living in the capital that the murdered man received a Christian burial. Travelers should remember that Morelia has always been a stronghold of the priesthood, and that, although the power of the Church is gone in most of the States, it still holds its own in Miclioacan. The Palace next demands our attention. It is a well- built and commodious edifice of two stories, and contains the offices of the State Government and the custom-house. The governmental printing-office is also in the Palace. A large room on the second story contains the State Library, which is composed of many rare and old volumes, taken from the convents and monasteries during revolutions. Some of the books are written on the canon law in Latin, and bound in the most costly style. The front part of the second story of this building consists of the Gov- ernor's office, and the reception-room, or 8ala de Reunion. The latter apartment is furnished with ornamental black- walnut sofas and chairs, covered with silk, and which were made in Morelia. In the Hall of Congress, or Sola del Congreso, on the first floor of the Palace, there is a statue of Hidalgo, the Mexican Washington, and a portrait of the liberator, Ocampo, speaking in the national palace at the capital. Ocampo was one of the leaders of the anti-clerical party, and rendered such gallant service to the State of Miclioacan during the revolution that the inhabitants named the State after him, so that its full name is Miclioacan de Ocampo. After the tourist has visited the principal buildings, a 214 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. walk to tlie Faseo will be found interesting. Large ash- trees (fresnos) grow here, and the gardens are well laid out and planted with flowers. We may add that there are fine cedars and cypress-trees in the yard of the Carmen Church, on the north side of the city. The traveler may rest a few days in Morelia to advan- tage. The time may be passed in visiting the other build- ings not already mentioned — such as the municipal palace ; the cemetery, or campo santo, inclosed with high adobe walls ; the smaller churches and vacant convents ; the cot- ton-factory ; or some of the colleges and schools. The climate of Morelia is salubrious. The water is, however, muddy, and must be passed through large stone filters before it can be used. Morelia was founded on the 23d of April, 1541, by provision of the viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza. During the Spanish domination it received the name of Vallado- lid, in honor of the Viceroy Mendoza, whose birthplace in Spain bore that name. In 1828 the Legislature of Micho- acan enacted that the city should be called Morelia, in memory of Jose Maria Morelos, a hero of the War of Inde- pendence, who was born in this place. Many excursions can be made from Morelia, especially to the mining districts lying to the east and southeast. Chapatuato is sixty miles by trail. Gold is found in a fis- sure-vein, associated with galena, pyrites, and antimonial ores. The country rock is slate. Ozumatlan is thirty miles distant. Here gold occurs in trachyte. Sinda lies at about the same distance from Morelia, and its miner- als are similar to those just mentioned. In the autumn of 1880 a company was formed in New York to develop these mining regions. It was known as the Michoacan Syndicate. Mining engineers were sent to Mexico from New York, and a favorable report was published, from which the above particulars are taken. Labor is abundant TEE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 215 here, at prices ranging from three to four reales a day. It is believed that the completion of the railroad to Morelia will be of great benefit to these mines, which are now owned largely by residents of this city, who have not sufficient capital to work them, and are willing to sell at a fair valuation. It may be remarked that Miclioacan still contains an immense amount of undeveloped mineral wealth. Besides gold and silver, copper and iron are abun- dant. An excursion may also be taken to Tzintzuntzaii, about seven miles distant. This town was the seat of the court of the ancient kings of Michoacan ; it had a population of 40,000. To-day its edifices are destroyed, its streets de- serted, and its few inhabitants are extremely ignorant. In the environs many mounds exist that are said to conceal the ancient palaces of the kings of Michoacan. There are also many buildings in which precious antiquities would be found if these hills should be excavated and examined. A great deal of pottery is no\f made here. The cities of Zamora, La Barca, and La Piedad, and the brown-coal deposits of Xiquilpan, may be reached from Morelia by horse-roads. In closing the chapter on Morelia, it may be said that, at present, but two foreign corporations are carrying on mining and smelting operations in the vicinity — one English and one American. The State Gov- ernment is trying to increase the cultivation of the silk- worm and of cotton, and it is hardly necessary to add that Michoacan affords excellent opportunities for investment to foreigners having some capital. 4. From Morelia to Patzcuaro, and thence to Manzanillo. The traveler is strongly advised to visit Patzcuaro^ espe- cially if he does not intend to go over the Mexican Central Railway to Lake Chapala. For the major part of the route the grade of the road-bed is upward. 21G CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. \ Leaving Moreh'a, the train runs nearly due west to Fdtz- cuaro. Along this route there is but little vegetation, and the region is hilly. A few extinct volcanoes are seen, and the prevailing rock is blue aniygclaloidal basalt. The following is a list of stations, with the distances : Distance in Kilometres from Morelia. STATIONS. Distance in Miles from Patzcuaro. MoTclia 39 20 29 Coapa 21 36 Laffunillas 17 49 Chapultepcc 8 62 Pdtzcuaro As the train approaches Fdfzcnaro, the observer will see the Cuincho waterfall on the left of the track. The first glimpse of the lake is obtained from the right-hand side of the car. After descending by a winding track, the tourist reaches the shore of Lake Pdtzcuaro., where there is a hotel near the station of the same name. The town is two miles distant, PATZCUARO, Population, 10,000; elevation, 6,717 feet. Hotel. — Diligencias. This place is 96 miles, or 155 kilometres, from Acamharo. It was formerly a resort of the ancient kings of Michoacan., and after the Conquest it became the capital of the prov- ince. The word Pdtzcuaro means in the Tarasco language " a place of pleasure." There are no interesting buildings in the town. The " thing to do " is to take a trip on the lake by the steamboat. The streets are narrow and wind- ing, but the plaza is spacious and shaded by trees ; and it is often filled by venders of fruit, vegetables and small wares, A fine view of the lake and town may be had from the hill of Calvario. There is a large Indian population who THE MEXICAN NA TIONAL RAIL WA Y. 21T speak the Tarasc dialect, especially on the lake, which is about two miles from the town. The picturesque Lake of Pdtzcuaro is about thirty miles in circumference. Its shape is irregular, the greatest length being about thirteen miles from northeast to southwest. There are five small islands in the lake, bearing the names of Xaniclio, Pacanda, Xaracuaro, Ytiguan, and Tecuen. The first one is inhabited. The view from the hills near the town, of the lake surrounded by densely timbered mount- ains, and with the surface dotted by islets, and the white houses on the side of Xaniclio, is beautiful beyond descrip- tion. It reminds the traveler of the famous Lago Mag- giore. Among other writers who have remarked upon the beauty of the landscape are Madame Calderon de la Barca and Baron von Humboldt. A recent English author of a book on Mexico states, that the former has published to the world the most entertaining work ever written on the land of the Aztecs. The Indians living on the Lake of Pdtzcuaro very closely resemble the Pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona. The tourist can \dsit the islands in one of their " dug-out " pine canoes (canoas). Paddles with circular blades are used in the canoes by both women and men. Perhaps no spot in the country deserves the name of "primitive Mexico" better than Lake Pdtzcuaro. Several excursions may be made from Pdtzcuaro. The most convenient one is to Uruapan, forty-seven miles by trail to the southwest. There are two small hotels and a cotton-factory in Uruapan. The cotton is of excellent quality, and is brought from the west {Acapulco) coast by pack-mules. Much pottery is made here, and the town lies in the midst of a coffee and sugar growing district. The coffee of Miclioacan is generally considered to be the best in Mexico, with the single exception of that from Co- \ima. An arroha of coffee (35 pounds) costs $3 at Urua- 218 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. pan, and at Pdtzcuaro it is worth 30 reales. These figures will give the traveler an idea of the great expense of trans- portation by mule-back ; i. e., the price for carrying coffee in sacks forty-seven miles is at the rate of three cents a pound ! There is a cascade near tlie town worthy of a visit. Besides sugar-cane and coffee, Peruvian bark {qiiina) and many medicinal plants, as well as an infinite variety of fruits, are grown in the environs of Uruapan. Twenty thousand barrels of native rum (aguardiente) are made an- nually in the district of JJruapan. The word "Uruapan" comes from Urani, which means in the Tarasc language " a chocolate-cup " {jicara), because the Indians in this region devote themselves to the manufacture and painting of these objects, in which industry they have thus far excelled. The line of railroad from Pdtzcuaro via Uruapan to Colima has been surveyed, but it will doubtless be many years before it is completed. The tourist can visit Tancitaro, 40 miles from Urua- pan, and, if he wishes, travel all the way to the Pacific coast. It will be advisable to purchase a horse if the trav- eler intends going beyond Uruapan. A good animal can be bought for about |540, and one able to accomplish the trip to Colima could be had for $35. The climate of Tan- citaro is cool, the town being situated at the base of a peak of the same name, having an altitude of 11,037 feet. There are many gardens of pears, peaches, and apples in the vicin- ity. A horse-road leads from Tancitaro to Colima, a dis- tance of about 100 miles. The latter place is celebrated for producing the finest coffee in the Eepublic. It is pro- nounced to be equal to the best Mocha. The berry is of small size. The State of Colima yields annually about 1,980,000 pounds of coffee, valued at 1225,000. Some of it is exported to Germany. Cotton, rice, sugar-cane, and indigo are also cultivated in this State. The city of Colima, situated on the river of the same THE MEXICAN^ NATIONAL RAILWAY. 219 name, has a population of 32,000 souls, which is equal to half the number of inhabitants of the entire State. There are some French, Germain, and English settlers. The volcano of Colima, 11,140 feet high, lies near the city. It is snow- clad in winter, but the summer sun melts the white cover- ing. This peak is conspicuously seen far out to sea, being only 25 miles from the coast. A wagon-road goes from Colima to Manzanillo, about 70 miles distant. The latter The City of Colima. town is the terminus of the western branch of the Mexican National Eailway. The distance from the national capital is 615 miles. The Pacific Mail steamers touch at Manza- nillo once a month. Manzanillo is 1,685 miles from San Francisco, Cal., and 1,742 miles from Panama. It may be remarked that the Hon. William H. Seward landed at Manzanillo in 1869, and traveled into the interior via Coli/ma and Guadalajara. He received a most enthu- siastic reception. 220 CITIES AXD ROUTES OP TRAVEL. The usual plau of building railways in Mexico, i. e., to begin at both ends, and work toward an intermediate point, has been adopted by the Mexican National Railway Company, and on October 1, 1883, about thirty miles of track had been laid from Mmizcmillo to Colima. The dis- tance between the two towns via Armeria is 60 miles hy rail. Leaving Colima, the Mexican National line makes a great bend to the northeast, curves around the northern side of Lake Cliapala, and then runs southeasterly to More- lia via Zamora. The railroad from Manzanillo to Morelia will be about 380 miles long. (See chapter on railways in Part First.) The climate of Manzanillo is unhealthy for Europeans, and the tourist is advised not to linger long in the vicinity. 5. From Patzcuaro via Ario to Jouullo ; * distance, 55 miles by horse-road. This is a rough trip, owing to the absence of wagon- roads and hotels along the route. It has charms, however, especially to the geologist and lover of natural scenery ; and the traveler will be amply repaid for the four or five days of comparative hardship necessary for the journey. Tourists should hire saddle-horses in Patzcuaro. If there are two or three in the party, it will be expedient to take a man-servant or mozo. Three horses and a mozo can be ob- tained at the rate of $4 daily, and the price of stabling. The cost of feeding each horse will be about one real a day. If the traveler wishes to go alone, and is able to talk in Spanish, a mozo will be unnecessary, although useful. Leaving the quaint town of Patzcuaro, the road as- cends for about two miles, when a densely- wooded plateau is reached. This route, formerly practicable for wagons, is well paved with stone on the heavy grades, and passes * Pronounced hoar-rool-yo. TH3 MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 221 through a region where considerable wheat, maize, and bar- ley are cultivated. On reaching the top of the hill, the observer may obtain a magnificent view of the Lake of Pdtz- cuaro, with the vast rolling country beyond. The hamlet of Santa Clara is soon reached. There are copper-smelt- ing works here, charcoal being used for fuel. The ore is brought in leathern sacks on mule-back from Churumuco Manzanillo Bay. and Inguaran, about 65 miles distant. It is worth from $10 to 120 per carga (300 pounds). Proceeding farther, the traveler will traverse a well-timbered district. Stately ash-trees line the streets of one of the villages, and the for- ests in the neighborhood contain fine spruces and piues. A French settler is about to erect a steam saw-mill here. A great deal of freight is carried along this route. One 222 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. I meets many pack-trains of mules coming chiefly from ■ Acapuico, which is 390 miles from Pdtzcuaro. A train is usually composed of forty mules with five men who act as l^ackers, or cargadores. A day's journey is sixteen miles. Mules are worth from $35 to 140 in this part of Mexico, and an aparejo, or leathern pack-saddle, costs $5. The men who accompany the pack-trains usually ride horses, and are armed with the largest size of revolvers. Most of the freight goes northward. It consists largely of the cotton that grows in the State of Guerrero, and which is put up in bales of about 150 pounds each. A good mule will carry two bales all day. Kegs of brandy, boxes of wine, small wares, and, of course, provisions and cooking utensils for the packers, are also carried by the mule-trains. On the return trip toward the Pacific coast, many of the animals go without a load, so that the tourist can secure transportation for himself and baggage if desirous of going to Acapuico. As the traveler approaches Ario, a beautiful view is presented from a point about two miles from the town. The "Coast Eange," or the southern part of the Sierra Madre, is visible, together with the broad plain at the base, the surface of which is dotted with numerous hillocks or cerrillos. The undulating contour of the table-land, which has just been crossed, can be traced for miles. The most prominent object in the landscape, however, is the lofty mountain to the southward, known as '"'La Estancia de los Padres,^'' or the fathers' mansion. This picturesque hill is formed of two dome-shaped masses of rock rising from a common base. The slopes are very steep, and the summit appears to be inaccessible from the northern side. Hum- boldt sketched this mountain while in Michoacan, and a picture of it may be found in his collection of views of Mexico. The observer can also see substantially the same landscape from the Alameda, just outside of Ario, and TEE MEXICAN NATIO^-AL RAILWAY. 223 about fifteen minutes' walk from the plaza. It is best to go to the Alameda in the afternoon, just as the sun sinks behind the lofty Sierra Madre. The plain with its wavy- surface appears like an inland sea, while the scattered hil- locks resemble islets. The road now enters Ario. The population amounts to 3,000, and the altitude is 6,358 feet, according to Hum- A Pack-train. boldt, or 866 feet lower than Pdtzcuaro, which is 31 miles distant. There are no hotels, but the town can boast of four mesones, that furnish accommodation for travelers and cattle or sheep. The 3Ieson de Ocampo is the best, although to assure a good night's rest the tourist should sprinkle flea-powder 10 22i CITIES aXD routes OF TRAVEL. over tlie sheets of his bed. The principal restaurant is the Fonda de la Bella Utiion, about half a block east of the plaza. The inhabitants of the town are very jiolite to strangers. Travelers should, if possible, procure letters of recommendation to residents in the neighboring villages which they intend to visit. The prefect of police will send an escort of soldiers to Jorullo, or any other place in his district, if asked. The expense of the escort will be nothing, but a small gratuity should be given to the ser- geant in command. The environs of Ario are very fertile, and many excellent farms that produce rice, sugar-cane, pepper, fruit, etc., may be easily visited. Fine horses and cattle are also reared. The climate of Ario is temperate and very healthful. The town is, however, a sort of " jumping-off " place. The land on the south and south- west of Ario descends rapidly, and a few hours' journey brings one into the ''hot country." A Mexican writer has named it "the month of the tierra caliente.'" The inhabitants feel the want of a wagon- road that would facilitate transportation of the valuable staple products to the State of Guerrero or to some of the ports on the Pacific. Excursions may be taken to Tacamharo, 20 miles to the eastward, or to Uruapan on the west. The former town produces much sugar and rum. The latter place has been described on page 217. Leaving Ario, the road leads to La Play a, at the base of the famous volcano of Jorullo, about 24 miles distant. We notice several haciendas, and some groves of pine and oak along the route. The country is gently rolling for sev- eral leagues. After traversing a forest, the path becomes narrow and uneven. Suddenly it descends rapidly over rocky ground to a small hacienda. The road is paved with cobble-stones for some dis- tance, and the hamlet of Tejamanil is soon reached. The THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 225 tourist is now in the tierra caliente. The houses in the viUage are made of cane-stalks and thatched chiefly with palm-leaves ; but the principal building is oi two stories, and built of adobe, with a roof of red tiles. There is a store in the latter, and a fondita adjoining. The accom- modations here are primitive, but it is the best place for the traveler to stop at, unless he has letters to the govern- mental inspector of police, who lives at La Playa, three miles farther on. There are fields of sugar-cane near by. Bananas and the indigo-plant also grow here. The main occupation of the natives is to collect palm-leaves from the adjoining liacienda, and cut them up in strips, taking the thin fibers for brooms, brushes, etc. The long strips of palm are folded over and packed together with tight cords. They are made into bundles about five feet long and a foot and a half in diameter, and carried to Ario on the backs of men and donkeys. It should be said that there are many porters in this section of the country. They trans- port mostly pottery and dressed palm-leaves, and travel about twenty miles daily with a load in this warm climate. The author saw a porter without a load walk thirty-one miles in seven and a half hours. He kept up with the writer's horse for the greater part of the distance. There is a native sugar-mill near Tejamanil, where the cane is put in a sort of hopper, and then passed through wooden roll- ers. The power is furnished by a yoke of oxen attached to a long shaft as in a horse-whim. The road descends all the Avay to the hamlet of Fuerta de la Playa, containing about a dozen huts, besides the house and store of the inspector of police, Don Francisco de Vega. Indigo {afiil) grows in the river-bottom behind Sefior Vega's residence. It is a wild bush about four feet high, and has a thin bark. The leaf resembles a fern. The Indians prepare it for the market by pounding the 226 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. seeds with a huge Avoodeu hammer and extracting the juice. The climate of La Playa is dry and very hot. The ther- mometer in the winter season readies 90° Fahr. at midday. It is much warmer in summer. The soil consists of dark volcanic sand, and it is called mal pais — /. e., bad country. The region abounds with dangerous insects, such as scor- pions, spiders, etc. A few rattlesnakes are found here. The traveler is advised to shake out his boots in the morn- ing, as insects and reptiles are apt to crawl into them dur- ing the night. Should he sleep in a Mexican hut, it will be expedient to keep on all clothing (including boots), on account of the vermin. During the French invasion a battalion of soldiers, numbering about five hundred, marched down to this cor- ner of the Eepublic. After camping in the plain for a few days they returned to Ario, fully satisfied that the natives had been impressed with the importance of these Gallic visitors. The ultimate destination of the tourist, the well-known volcano of Jorullo, will noAV be described. The trail up the mountain leaves the Acapuico road at La Playa. The base of the cone of the volcano is about three miles distant. Whether the traveler passes the night at Tejamanil, or at Senor Vega's residence, he should set out before day- light (say 4 A. M.), in order to reach the summit and return before the sun becomes too hot. One hour will be requisite to go from Tejamanil to La Playa in the dark. Leaving the main road, the path traverses a barren sandy plateau covered with bowlders of black scoriaceous basalt. Pres- ently the gi-ade ascends, and we pass through underbrush and groves of the huimclii and tejjejuaje trees. Horses can be ridden to witliin half a mile of the crater. A Mexi- can peasant may be hired to act as guide for the sum of one dollar. He will take care of the tourist's horse, if no mozo THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 227 accompanies him, and point out the way to the summit, which can readily be ascended alone. About two hours will be necessary to arrive at the crater from the Puerta cle la Playa. The scientific tourist will want to spend as much time on the volcano. A thermometer should be taken along to measure the temperature of the hot gases escaping from the fumaroles. The general direction of the mountain-mass of Jorullo is north and south. The volcano is pear-shaped, the outlet of the crater being on the north side. The cone is covered with loose black ashes in which a few bushes grow, and its slope on the north and west sides is about forty-five degrees'. The crater is about a mile in circumference, and the diameter from north to south is estimated at 500 yards, the distance from east to west being a little less. The highest point is on the east side. According to Baron von Hum- boldt's measurements, the summit of this volcano is 4,267 feet above the' level of the sea, or 1,683 feet above the ''Play as de Jorullo,'' which is probably the same place that now bears the name of Puerto, de la Playa, often called simply La Playa. Many clefts and fumaroles are found in the edge of the crater. The writer took the temperatures of some of them as follows : aqueous vapor escaping from the west side was found to be 132° Fahr., and sulphurous-acid gas in 2i fuma- role at the mouth of the crater had a mean temperature of 130° Fahr., the column of mercury rising and falling a few degrees while the thermometer was exposed to the hot ^apor. The traveler can make the circuit of the crater without difficulty. Grass about four feet high, a few ferns, and tepejiiaje md clianguncjo (native trees), grow on the border. Deer ire abundant on the mountain. There is an immense otrcam of lava on the north side, having a dark-red color, Dwing to the oxidation of the iron in the rock. It is com- 228 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. posed of scoriaccous basalt, and looks like the slag of a furnace. The rocks of Jorullo, however, are neither uniform in texture nor composition. They vary in color from black and red to gray and grayish white. Bluish basalt containing olivine occurs near the bottom of the crater, and whitish- gray trachyte forms the greater part of it. The latter rock is traversed with a few small veins of sulphur. The tourist may descend to the bottom of the mouth of the volcano, which is about 500 feet below the summit. The walls slant rapidly and are covered with an enormous mass of tahis, containing many angular fragments of red and black rocks. Shocks of earthquake are often felt in the environs of Jorullo, extending sometimes as far as Mo- relia, 60 miles distant. A recent earthquake (in March, 1883) was perceptible at Ario for the space of two minutes, and cracks were formed in the ground at a point ten miles off. Although no eruption has taken place for upward of a hundred years, this volcano is still in a semi-active state, as shown by the heat of the crater-walls, the emission of sulphurous gas and aqueous vapor, and the frequency of earthquakes. Another stream of lava might flow out of Jorullo at any time. The view from the summit next demands attention. It is very extensive. The eye follows the contour of the Sierra Maclre to the westward for more than 100 miles, until the lofty volcano of Colima, capped with snow, bounds the horizon. The picturesque mountain, La Estancia de los Padres, is very conspicuous, and also the grassy plain in front of it, having a breadth of forty-five miles. On the south the country is much broken in outline, and to the eastward the observer may trace the undulating surface of the table-land. Looking northerly, one sees the sugar-cane fields and banana-groves near Tejamanil, whose bright verd- THE MEXICAN- NATIONAL RAILWAY. 229 ure forms a pleasant contrast to the greater part of the desert landscape. The tourist may also have an excellent view of the palm-tree liacienda in the valley, which yields an income of about $10,000 a year. It is the largest in Midioacan. The descent from the cone of Jorullo is easy, and the Puerta cle la Playa can be reached in about an hour, the path being mostly down-grade. The appearance of Jorullo from the valley is worthy of mention. If the observer has time to geologize, let him speculate upon the original size of the plain before the eruption of 1759. This volcano is the culminating point of a narrow ridge about six miles long, and running due north and south. There are other hills of igneous rock on the eastern and northeastern bor- ders of the plain. The valley of La Playa is now about a mile wide and six miles long. A rough estimate would make the breadth of it about eight miles before the eleva- tion of Jorullo. Alexander von Humboldt explored this region in 1803, and "wrote a lengthy account of the great volcano in his journal. It is also described both in the Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne and in the Cosmos. The follow- ing extracts are taken from Otte and Dallas's translation of the Cosmos, vol. v, pages 291-300 : "In the series of Mexican volcanoes, . . . the most celebrated phe- nomenon is the elevation of the ncwly-prockiced Jorullo, and its ctfusiou of lava. . . . The eruption in a broad and long-peaceful plain, in the former province of Michoacan, in the night from the 28th to the 29th of Septem- ber, 1759, at a distance of more than 120 miles from any other volcano, was preceded for fully three months, namely, from the 29th of June in the same year, by an uninterrupted and subterranean noise. . . . " The eruption of the new volcano, about three o'clock in the morning, was foretold the day before by a phenomenon which, in other eruptions, docs not indicate their commencement, but their conclusion. At the point where the great volcano now stands there was formerly a thick wood of the Guayava. . . . 230 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. " Laborers from the sugar-cane fields {caiiavcralcs) of the Uaeienda de San Pedro Jorullo . . . had gone out to collect the fruit of the guayava. When they returned to the farm {hacienda) it was remarked with astonish- ment that their large straw hats were covered with volcanic ashes. Fis- sures had consequently already opened in what is now called the Malpais, probably at the foot of the high basaltic dome £1 Cuiche, which threw out ashes (lapilli) before any change appears to have occurred in the plain. . . . " In the first hours of the night, the black ashes already lay a foot deep ; every one fled toward the hill of Aguasarco, a small Indian village, situated 2,409 feet higher than the old plain of Jorullo. " From this height (so runs the tradition) a large tract of land was seen iu a state of fearful fiery eruption, and, ' in the midst of the flames (as those who witnessed the ascent of the mountain expressed themselves), there ap- peared, like a black castle (castillo negro), a great shapeless mass (buUo grande).^ " From the small population of the district (the cultivation of indigo and cotton was then but vei'y little carried on), even the force of long- continued earthquakes cost no human lives, although, as I learn from manu- script record, houses were overturned by them near the copper-mines of Inguaran, in the small town of Patzcuaro, in Santiago de Ario, and many miles farther, but not beyond San Pedro Churumucu. In the Hacienda dn Jorullo, during the general nocturnal flight, they forgot to remove a deaf and dumb negi'o slave. A mulatto had the humanity to return and save him, while the house was still standing. It is still related that he was found kneeling, with a consecrated taper in his hand, before the picture of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. " According to the tradition, widely and coneordantly spread among the natives, the eruption during the first days consisted of great masses of rock, scoriae, sand, and ashes, but always combined with an effusion of muddy water. In the memorable report already mentioned, of the 19th of Octo- ber, 1759, the author of which was a man who, possessing an accurate knowledge of the locality, describes what had only .-just taken place, it is expressly said : ' Que espch el dicho. Volcan arena, ceniza y agua.'' "All eye-witnesses relate . . . that, before the terrible mountain made its appearance, . . . the earthquakes and subterranean noises became more frequent ; but, on the day of the eruption itself, the flat soil was seen to rise perpendicularly, . . . and the whole became more or less inflated, so that blisters {vczigoncs) appeared, of which the largest is now the volcano. . . . " These inflated blisters of very various sizes, and partly of a tolerably regular conical form, subsequently burst . . . and threw boiling-hot earthy mud fi'om their orifices, ... as well as scoriaceous stony masses, . . . THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 231 which are still found, at an immense distance, covered with black, stony masses. " These historical records, which we might, indeed, wish to see more complete, agree perfectly with what I learn from the mouths of the natives, fourteen years after the ascent of Antonio de Riafio.* To the questions whether ' the castle mountain ' was seen to rise gradually for months or years, or whether it appeared from the very first as an elevated peak, no answer could be obtained. " According to the tradition, the phenomena of small eruptions of water and mud, which were observed during the first days simultaneously with the incandescent scoriae, are ascribed to the destruction of two brooks, which, springing on the western declivity of the mountain of Santa Ines, and consequently to the east of the Ccrro de Cuiche, abundantly irrigated the cane-fields of the former Hacienda de San Pedro de Jorullo, and flowed onward far to the west to the Hacienda de la Presentacion. Near their origin, the point is still shown where they disappeared in a fissure, with their formerly cold waters, during the elevation of the eastern border of the MaJpais. Running below the hornitos, they reappear, according to the general opinion of the people of the country, heated in two thermal springs. . . . " In order to acquire a clear notion of the complicated outline and gen- eral form of the surface of the ground in which such remarkable upheavals have taken place, we must distinguish hypsometrically and morphologically : " 1. The position of the volcanic system of Jorullo in relation to the average level of the Mexican plateau. 2. The convexity of the Malpais, which is covered with thousands of hornilos. 3. The fissure upon which six large volcanic mountain-masses have arisen. " On the western portion of the central Cordillera of Mexico, which strikes from south-southeast to north-northwest, the plain of the Playas de Jo- rullo, at an elevation of only 2.657 feet above the level of the Pacific, forms one of the horizontal mountain terraces which everywhere in the Cor- dilleras interrupt the line of inclination of the declivity, and consequently more or less impede the decrease of heat in the superposed strata of the atmosphere. " On descending from the central plateau of Mexico (whose mean eleva- tion is 7,460 feet) to the corn-fields of Vailadolid de Michoacan, to the charming Lake of Patzcuaro with the inhabited islet Janicho, and into the meadows around Santiago de Ario, which Bonpland and I found adorned with the dahhas, which have since become so well known, we have not de- scended more than nine hundred or a thousand feet. * In 18C3. 232 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. " But in passing from Ario on the steep declivity over Aguasarco, into the level of the old plain of JoruUo, wc diminish the absolute elevation in this short distance by from 3,850 to 4,250 feet. The roundish convex part of the upheaved plain is about 12,790 feet in diameter, so that its area is more than seven square miles. The true volcano of JoruUo and the five other mountains which rose simultaneously with it upon the same fissure, are so situated that only a small portion of the Malpais lies to the east of them. " Toward the west, therefore, the number of hornitos is much larger ; and when, in early moining, I issued from the Indian huts of the Playas de Jo- Jorullo. rullo or ascended a portion of the Cerro del Mirador, I saw the black volcano projecting very picturesquely above the innumerable white columns of smoke of the ' little ovens ' {hornitos). Both the houses of the Playas and the basaltic hill Mirador are situated upon the level of the old non-volcanic, or, to speak TEE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 233 more cautiously, unupheaved soil. Its beautiful vegetation, in which a multitude of salvias bloom beneath the shade of a new species of fan- palm ( Corypha pumas), and of a new alder {Alnus Jorullensis), contrasts with the desert, naked aspect of the Malpais. "The comparison of the height of the barometer, at the point where the upheaval commences in the Playas, with that at the point immediately at the foot of the volcano, gives 473 feet of relative perpendicular elevation. The house that we inhabited stood only about 500 toises (3,197 feet) from the border of the Malpais. At that place there was a small perpendicular precipice of scarcely twelve feet high, from which the heated water of the brook (Rio de San Pedro) falls down. "The portion of the inner structure of the soil, which I could examine at the precipice, showed black, hoi-izontal, loamy strata, mixed with sand {lapilii). At other points which I did not see, Burkai't has observed ' on the perpendicular boundary of the upheaved soil where the ascent of this is difficult, a light gray and not very dense (weathered) basalt, with numerous grains of olivine.' " This accurate and experienced observer has, however, like myself, on the spot, conceived the idea of a vesicular upheaval of the surface effected by elastic vapors, in opposition to the opinion of celebrated geognosists, who ascribe the convexity, which I ascertain by direct measurement, solely to the greater effusion of lava at the foot of the volcano. " The many thousand small eruptive cones (properly rather of a round- ish or somewhat elongated oven-like form), which cover the upheaved sur- face pretty uniformly, are on the average four to nine feet in height. They have risen almost exclusively on the western side of the great volcano, as, indeed, the eastern part toward the Cei-ro de Cuiche scarcely constitutes one twenty-fifth of the entire area of the vesicular elevation of the Playas. "Each of the numerous hornitos is composed of weathered basaltic spheres, with fragments separated like concentric shells ; I was frequently able to count from twenty-four to twenty-eight such shells. The balls are flattened into a somewhat spheroidal form, and are usually fifteen to eight- een inches in diameter, but vary from one to three feet. The black basal- tic mass is penetrated by hot vapors and braken up into an earthy form, although the nucleus is of greater density ; while the shells, when detached, exhibit yellow spots of oxide of iron. Even the soft, loamy mass which unites the balls is, singularly enough, divided into curved lamella?, which wind through all the interstices of the balls. "At the first glance I asked myself whether the whole, instead of weathered basaltic spheroids, containing but little olivine, did not perhaps present masses disturbed in the course of their formation. But in opposi- 23i CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. tion to this we have the analogy of the hills of globular basalt, mixed with layers of clay and marl, which are found, often of very small dimensions, in the central chain of Bohemia, sometimes isolated and sometimes crowning long basaltic ridg<>s at both extremities. " Some of the hoi-nilos are so much broken up, or have such large inter- nal cavities, that mules, when compelled to place their fore-feet upon the flatter ones, sink in deeply, while in similar experiments which I made the hills constructed by the termites resisted. In the basaltic mass of the hor- nitos I found no immersed scoriae, or fragments of old rocks which had been penetrated, as in the case of the lavas of the great Jorullo. The ap- pellation homos or hornitos is especially justified by the circumstance that in each of them (I speak of the period when I traveled over the Playas de Jorullo and wrote my journal, 18th of September, 1803) the columns of smoke break out, not from the summit, but laterally. " In the year 1780, cigars might still be lighted, when they were fastened to a stick and pushed into a depth of two or three inches ; in some places the air was at that time so much heated in the vicinity of the hornitos, that it was necessary to turn away from one's proposed course. " Notwithstanding the refrigeration which, according to the universal testimony of the Indians, the district had undergone within twenty years, I found the temperature in the fissures of the hornitos to range between 199° and 203° ; and, at a distance of twenty feet from some hills, the tem- perature of the air was still 108'5° and 116*2° at a point where no vapors reached me, the true temperature of the atmosphere of the Playas being at the same time scarcely 77°. " The weak sulphuric vapors decolorized strips of test-paper, and rose visibly for some hours after sunrise, to a height of fully sixty feet. " The view of the columns of smoke was most remarkable early in a cool morning. Toward midday, and even after eleven o'clock, they had be- come very low and very visible only from their immediate vicinity. In the interior of many of the hornitos we heard a rushing sound, like the fall of water. The small basaltic hornitos are, as already remarked, easily de- structible. When Burkart visited the Malpais twenty-four years after me, he found that none of the hornitos were still smoking, their temperature be- ing in most cases the same as that of the surrounding air, while many of them had lost all regularity of form by heavy rains and meteoric influences. Near the principal volcano, Burkart found small cones, which were com- posed of a brownish-red conglomerate, of rounded or angular fragments of lava, and only loosely coherent. " In the midst of the upheaved area covered with hornitos, there is still to be seen a remnant of the old elevation on which the buildings of the THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 235 farm of San Pedro rested. The hill, which I have indicated in my plan, forms a ridge directed east and west, and its preservation at the foot of the great volcano is most astonishing. Only a part of it is covei'ed with dense sand (burned lapilli). The projecting basaltic rock grown over with ancient trunks of Ficus Indica and Fsidium, is certainly, like that of the Cerro del Mirador and the high mountain-masses which bound the plain to the east- ward, to be regarded as having existed before the catastrophe." * Eef erring to the eruption of the volcano, Humboldt remarks that the natives ascribe these wonderful changes in the earth's surface to the work of the monks. At the Flay as de Jorullo, the Indian, whose hut the German trav- eler occupied, told him that in 1759 the Capuchins belong- ing to the mission preached at San Pedro, but failed to re- ceive hospitable treatment. Accordingly, they j^ronounced anathemas upon this beautiful and fertile plain, predict- ing that first of all the houses would be destroyed by flames, which would issue from the earth, and that after- ward the surrounding air would cool to such a degree that the neighboring mountains would remain eternally covered with snow and ice. The former of these maledictions hav- ing been verified, the lower class of Indians already see in the gradual cooling of the volcano the presage of a perpet- ual winter. Should the tourist wish to visit the hornitos that have just been described, it may be said that they are about 13 miles from Piierta de la Playa. There is no hamlet in the vicinity. The famous copper-mines of Sa7i Pedro de Jo- rullo are about 15 miles distant. These ore deposits Avere worked before the Conquest, and consist of the sulphides and oxides of copper. Several tunnels have been driven into the side of the mountain about 2,000 feet above the adjacent plain. There is from 25 to 60 per cent of metal in the cop- per pyrites ; and from 80 to 100 arrohas of ore are extracted monthly, and carried by mules to Santa Clara (see p. 221). * The author has italicized all Spanish words in the above extract. 236 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The mining district of Coalcoman lies about 60 miles west of Joridlo. There are many mines of gold, silver, copper, and lead here. The dej^osits of iron are also said to be as extensive as those of the famous Ccrro del Mercado in Durango. This circumstance, together with the proximity of the district to the Pacific Ocean, gives reason to believe that, upon the opening of some of the ports on the coast, and the development of the various mines, Coalcoman will become the center of wealth and commerce of the State of Michoacan. From Puerta de la Playa the traveler may continue the journey southward, crossing the Zacatula Eiver to Acapulco, 235 miles distant. The gTcater part of the road follows the outline of the Pacific coast. The river can be forded in the dry seasons, but rafts must be used during the heavy rains of summer. The climate of Aca- pulco is very hot and unhealthy. The town lies on a nar- row strip of land, less than half a mile in width, on which there is but little soil. It is surrounded by lofty granitic mountains, and has about 5,000 inhabitants. There are several hotels here. The harbor is the finest in Mexico. For many years Vera Cruz was the only other i:)ort from which goods were shipped to foreign countries. There was formerly considerable commerce between Acapulco and the Philippine Islands. The Pacific Mail steamships touch at Acapulco twice a month. The distance from Acapulco to San Francisco is 1,836 miles, and the fare is (cabin) 1100. The fare to Panama is the same, and the distance is 1,591 miles. The terminus of the Morelos Eailway will be at Acapul- co. The town will probably become an important com- mercial center when the road is completed. At present the only object of interest to the tourist is the artificial cut in the mountain {Ahra de San Nicolas), which has been ex- cavated for the purpose of admitting the sea-breeze. The scenery of the landlocked harbor is picturesque. Scale 1 : 120,000. 99° 57^ West oF GreenwicK g9°53' 0to5 Fathoms. 5 to 10 Fathoms. Depths. 10 to 25 Fathoms. 25 to 50 Fathoms 50 Fathoms and Tipwards. 3,300 Yards. Acapit/co. THE MEXICAy NATIONAL BAIL WAY. 237 Route II. FROM THE CITY OF MEXICO TO LAREDO AND CORPUS CHRISTI. 1. Mexico to Celaya. 2. Celaya to San Luis Potosi. 3. 8a7i Luis Potosi to Monterey. 4. Monterey to Laredo. 5. Laredo to Corpus Cliristi. 1. Mexico to Celaya, 219-3 miles. (For description of this tour as far as Acaniiaro, and thence to Celaya, see Route I, pp. 203-210.) 2. From Celaya to San Lcis Potosi, 142-6 miles. At Celaya {Hotel Guadalupe) the line of the Mexican Central Railway crosses that of the Mexican National. A tramway extends from the station to the plaza. The strawberries {fresas) and sweets {dulces) of Celaya are famous. Leaving Celaya (elevation 5,800 feet), the track runs almost due northward across the fertile Bajio district to San Luis Potosi. Passing the stations of Santa Rita and San Juan, the lines crosses the Laja River, and the town of Soria is reached. The last-named place lies in a broad and fertile valley. The woolen-mills of Eusebio and Gonzalez, which give employment to nearly 500 men, are situated here ; hence the name, Mulino del Soria. At Cliamacuero (population, 4,000) we enter the rocky canon of the Bio Laja. The road now runs through the hamlets of liincon- cillo and Begona to San Miguel, which is 253-3 miles from Mexico. 238 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. SAX MIGUEL. Population, 20,000 ; elevation, G,098 feet. Hotel de Allende. Bath-house adjoining. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral, built in the Gothic style by an Indian. 2. The Chapel of the Casa de Lorclo, adjoining the oratorio cf San Felipe ^'crL 3. The Theatre. This town is Avell laid out and the streets are paved. The town is often called San Mi(juel de Allende^ for it was the birthplace of the patriot Miguel de Allende. Leaving San Miguel, the line continues in the valley of the Laja. Passing the small stations of Atotonil:o, Tequis- quiaimm and Erre, we reach Dolores Hidalgo (elevation, 6,212 feet, and population about 6,000). The house of the patriot Hidalgo is worthy of a visit. Here it was that this celebrated curate, often called the Washington of Mexico, sounded the keynote for independence, September 16, 1810. Going northward through the broad valley, the track passes the stations of Rincon, Peiia Prieta, Trancas, Ohre- go)i, San Felipe, Cliirimoya and Jaral. These places lie in the State of Guanajuato and are chiefly used for wood and water. Several miles north of Jaral the railway enters the State of San Luis Potosi. The next station is Villa Reyes (elevation, 5,980 feet), atid, after passing Jestis Maria and La Pila, the city of San Lids Potosi is reached. SAX LUIS POTOSI. Population, 80,000; elevation, 6,100 feet. Hotels. — Hidalgo, Nacional Mexicano, San Fa-nando, Ammcano, San Carlos, San Luis. Baths of San Jose in the Calk de Rayon, at 3 and 4 rcales. San Luis, as it is generally called, is a fine city. It is the capital of the State of the same name. The streets are laid out at right angles to each other and are well paved. The houses are mostlv of two stories. The owners are re- TEE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 239 quired by law to repaint their houses at intervals. There are several public squares and a fine park. The city covers a large area. It lies in a broad and fertile plain surrounded by lofty sierras. The climate is delightful, the thermome- ter rarely falling below the freezing-point. The station of the Mexican National Eailroad Company is a large stone building. It is one of the finest in the Ee- public. On the other side of the Alameda is the station of the Mexican Central Eailway Company. San Luis is one of the few places in Mexico where the railway enters the heart of the city. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral. 2. The Mint. 3. The City- Hall. 4. The Church of JEl Carmen. 5. The Church of San Francisco. 6. The Church of San Agustin. 1. The Church of Za Merced. 8. The Church of Guadalupe. 9. The Chapels of JEl Rosario and Los Remedios. 10. Th.e Alameda. 11. The Plaza mayor. The cathedral contains a beautiful clock that strikes the hours. It is in the faQade between the towers and was sent as a present to the city from a King of Spain. The tourist should ascend one of the towers for a view of the environs. The entrance is on the plaza, just north of the principal door of the cathedral. There is a large monument erected in honor of the patriot Hidalgo in the center of thej9/«2;a. A horse-car track has been laid in the streets, and the electric light and telephones have long been in use. The citizens of San Lids are noted for their hospitality. In the winter season balls are given, to which strangers may be invited through some merchant or banker. There is a large garrison here and the military band often plays in the Plaza mayor. The natives sell handsome gold and silver embroidered articles, such as slippers and cushions, which serve as souvenirs of the place. This State is rich in minerals, although but few of the mines are worked at present, owing to lack of capital. The famous San Pedro mine is near the city. The pillars hav- 17 240 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. ing been cut away, the roof of the mine has fallen in. Mining engineers state that there is still a large body of ore awaiting development. The biggest piece of native gold ever found in Mexico is said to have been taken out of the 8an Pedro. It was sent to the reigning King of Spain as a gift, and in return the Spanish sovereign presented a clock to the cathedral, which has already been described. FROM SAif LUIS POTOSI TO TAMPICO. A trip over the eastern branch of the Mexican Central Railway to Tam- pico (275 miles distant) may be made from San Luis. This line was com- pleted in March, 1890. The tourist coming from the north should visit the Uerra calienie, and, unless he intends to travel over the railway to Vei-a Cruz, he is advised to see the beautiful scenery along the road to Tampico. There is now but little hotel accommodation, but in the near future the traveler will be as well provided for as in other parts of Mexico. The following is a condensed itinerary of the route : Leaving San Luis the track descends to TO/ar (elevation, 5,186 feet) and enters the wild San Isidoro Valley. The next important station is Cerritos (elevation, 3,706 feet). A few miles north of the line is Villa del Maiz. Then the road-bed ascends to Cardenas (elevation, 3,936 feet), which is the terminus of the San Luis division of the Mexican Central, and 117 miles from San Luis Potosl. We now descend abruptly into the fertile valley of Canoas and soon enter the grand canon of the Tumasopo, where the track is laid on a rocky shelf cut in the mountain-side. At one place the line passes through three tunnels in rapid succession and its course for several miles is very winding. The tourist then sees El Hoyo de San Jose (the pit of St. Joseph), a large, crater-like hole. The road-bed describes an " S " in avoiding this gaping hollow. Rank vegetation and tropical flowers abound. The next station is Rascon (elevation, 984 feet, and a restaurant). Here the track enters a low range of hills and soon reaches Micos (eleva- tion, 738 feet). Then the road runs along the side of a canon and through the pass of Abra de Caballeros to the station of El Abra. Just beyond this point the river at the bottom of tlie canon forms a beautiful cascade about 300 feet high. The next object of interest is the famous Choy cave. A trestle-bridge of iron, 205 feet above the pool of water, has been erected here. About five miles from the station of Tamos are the ruins of an old Aztec city. At this stopping-place the tourist catches the first glimpse of the Pdnuco TEE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 241 River. The Mexican Central Railway Company owns about four miles of water-frontage between Tampico and the mouth of the river. Just beyond Tamos a long drawbridge crosses the junction of the Pdnuco and Tamesi Rivers. Small steamboats ascend both streams. The tourist is advised to take a trip on either one. The population of the port of Tampico is about 7 000. This town will soon become a railway center, for the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Railroad will reach it by July 1, 1891, and another line across the Huasteca country to the City of Mexico is projected by an Eng- lish company. Here the river is about 1,800 feet wide and about 30 feet in depth. Under a concession from the Federal Government the Tampico Harbor Company has built two jetties (north and south), and the depth of water on the bar has been greatly increased. The harbor is larger than that of Corpus Christi, and the distance from Mexico City via the Mexican National to San Luis is but 637 miles, or 367 miles less than to Corpus Christi. The complete list of stations from Tampico to San Luis, with the dis- tances in kilometres, is as follows : *Tampico O'O *Tamos 13-1 Chila 30-9 Chijol 44-6 Auza 596 Velasco 75-7 Coco 95"4 *Las Palmas 113-1 Taninul 120-9 El Abra 125-1 *Valle3 139-2 *Micos 163-7 Las Crucitas 173-2 *Rascont 188-2 Tambaca 1972 Tamasopo 205-4 Zacate 214-1 *Las Canoas 231-8 La Labor 240*8 *Cardenas + 254-6 *Las Tablas 292-1 San Bartolo 312-1 *Cerritos 340-6 San Lazaro 354-0 La Joya 358-8 *Villar 367-5 Silos 376-1 *Peotillos 383-4 Corcovada 398-7 La Tinaja '. 412-3 *San Luis Potosi 443-1 3. From San Luis PotosI to Monterey, 308-2 miles. Leaving 8an Luis Potosi., the railroad crosses the broad plain which is intersected at intervals by low mountain- ridges. Mesqiiite^ maguey and nopal grow here in abun- * Telegraph stations. f Eating-houses. 242 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. dance. The stations of Peilasco^ Siding, Bocas and En Ramada are simply haciendas, or used for wood and water. As far as the hamlet of Bocas the land is tolerably fertile, but north of this station the soil is sandy and stony. Beyond this point the track runs 150 miles nearly without a curve. TJie town of Moctezuma (43-6 miles from San Luis) is the first place of interest. The elevation is 5,-471 feet and the population about 4,000. Excellent red wine is made here. A railroad is in course of construction from Moctezuma to Zacatecas, 110 miles distant. It is a portion of the subsi- dized line of the Mexican National Construction Company. At Venado, the next station (population, 3,000), the track leaves the valley of the old diligence-road and trends to the westward. Cotton-mills have been built here. "We now reach Los Charcos (elevation, 5,471 feet), which is 65*5 miles from San Luis. The town of Charcas (popu- lation, 2,000) lies three miles eastward. Valuable silver- mines (sulphurets and argentiferous galena) are found in the vicinity. Leaving Los Charcos, the mountains of Ca- torce soon come into view. The land now rises slightly. Passing the " wood or water " stations of Laguna-Seca (elevation, 6,655 feet), Berrendo and La Maroma,* Catorce is reached. The company's hotel adjoins the railway-sta- tion. Here the elevation is 5,990 feet and the population about 1,000. The famous silver-mining town, or Real cle Catorce, lies eight miles eastward. The population is about 10,000, and the elevation 9,500 feet. A wagon-road leads to it from Catorce. AVard publishes a plate of the hills of Catorce, and describes the mining town at some length. He says, " The name Catorce \ is supposed to have been derived from the death of fourteen Spanish soldiers, who are said to have been killed there by a tribe * One mile north of La Maroma the railroad crosses the Tropic of Cancer. A monument erected by this railway company marks the line between the temperate and torrid zones. f It is often erroneously stated that Catorce was named after a band of fourteen robbers who for many years were the terror of the neighborhood. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 243 of Indios bravos, by whom the mountains were inhabited before the discov- ery of the mines." Now that the main line of the Mexican National is finished, the rich mines of Catorce should be visited by tourists. This town may become a second Leadville. Silver was discovered here about the year 1*780. It is said that the tunnel for the drainage of one mine — the San Agustin — runs into the mountain for a distance of nearly two miles, and that its excavation cost $1,500,000. A tramway, worked by mules, has been laid in the tunnel. Some of the most valuable veins of silver in Mexico may be found hero. They are chiefly owned by Spaniards. The principal mines are La Concep- cion, El Serena, La Luz, El Zavdla, Dolores Trompeta and La Purisima. The first named is perhaps the most famous in the Republic. It is said that the title to the Concepcion mine was one of the causes of the French invasion. During Maximilian's reign a mint was established at Catorce. With improved machinery and proper drainage, the owners of these ore- deposits expect to reap large profits in the near future. The transportation of these silver-ores will long be a source of revenue to the Mexican Na- tional Railroad Company. While the Real de Catorce is interesting chiefly to the miner and the geologist, the tourist by a visit to this place may have a good opportunity to see primitive Mexican customs. It is said that no wagon has ever been driven into the town. A rich mine-owner once brought in a carriage on burros (donkey-back), but it was impracticable to use it on account of the steep grades of the streets. The plaza is the only level spot in Catorce. There is a fine cathedral here. Its cost must have been enormous. A wagon-road runs to Matehuala, 13 miles distant. This city lies on the old diligence route, in a region abounding with blue limestone. The popu- lation is about 15,000. It has a cathedral, a well-kept hotel, a bath-house, and many haciendas de heneficios or silver-reducing works. Maize and ixtle grow in the environs. The town of Cedral lies about 12 miles northward. Here are several silver-reducing mills. The ores come from Catorce. The rugged pyramidal mountain of El Fraile lies near Cedral. It may be ascended on horseback to a point 800 feet from the summit and thence on foot. Leaving Catorce, the railway-track soon trends north- easterly, and passing the ranch of Poblazou reaches Vane- gas (elevation, 5,674 feet), which is 484 miles from the City of Mexico. A native company has built a narrow-gauge railway from 244 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Yanegas to Matehiiala., 15 miles southeast. It will be ex- tended to Doctor A rroyo and Rio Verde. Going northward, the track runs westward of the ridge of El Fraile, through the haciendas of La Parida and San Vicente to the station of El /Salado, 151-3 miles from San Luis. The new railway-station lies nearly one mile west of the old stage-coach road. El Salado is about 27 miles from Cedral. We are now on the eastern boundary of one of the largest estates in Mexico, the Hacienda del Sala- do, belonging to Don Juan Bustamante. It lies partly in the four States of San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Nuevo Leon and Coaliuila. There are 8:000 horses and 3,000 cattle on the farm. Wells and tanks are used for watering the stock, as no running streams exist here. Leaving El Scdado, the i-ailroad soon enters the State of Coaliuila. Passing the ranch of Lulu, we reach the hamlet of La Ventura, with a population of 1,000 and an elevation of 5,608 feet. The next station is Satita Elena, where the land begins to rise, and then comes Gomez Farias, which was once the home of a notorious brigand of that name. The latter is the " shipping " point for the copper and sil- ver mines of Mazajjil, 30 miles distant. It may be said that the carbonates of lead are abundant in the sierra from the town of Charcas northward to Salome Botello, in the State of Nuevo Leon. Passing the hamlet of Oi^o, the station of Cameras is reached. Carneros is the terminus of the northern and southern divisions. It is 579*4 miles from 3fexico and 217'5 miles from San Luis Potosi. The elevation is 6,809 feet. This town lies on an elevated plateau upon which grow a few palms. A stone railway-station has been erected here. Carneros is the highest station on the northern division of the main line of the Mexican National. It is, however, much lower than many of the stations between Maravatio and the City of Mexico. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 245 The next station is Aguanueva (elevation, 6,363 feet). It is a fertile spot and affords good water. This part of the route is celebrated in Mexican history as being the scene of battles, both during the War of Independence as well as in the conflict with the United States. The next stopping- place is the hamlet of Encantada, having an elevation of 6,061 feet. General Taylor with his army encamped here before the battle of Biiena Vista. A wagon-road goes from this place to Parras and the " laguna country " of Coahuila. The altitude of Parras is 5,033 feet. Cotton, fruit and the cereals grow abundantly in the vicinity of Parras. The yucca-tree is common in Coahuila. It grows to a height of thirty feet. Some spe- cies bear an edible fruit which resembles the banana. Pro- ceeding farther, the traveler crosses the famous battle-field of Buena Vista, on a plateau about half a mile wide. Here, on February 23 and 33, 1847, the American army, under General Taylor, defeated the Mexicans, who were com- manded by Santa Anna. The forces of the latter out- numbered those of the former by about four to one. From Encantada the road-bed descends to Saltillo, where the station is one mile from the city. SALTILLO. Population, 20,000 ; elevation, 5,300 feet. Hotels. — San Esleban, TomasichL Saltillo is the capital of the State of Coahuila and is a very healthy place. It is 240 miles from Laredo and 603 miles from the City of Mexico. It is well built and con- tains an Alameda and several plazas. The parochial church on the Plaza mayor is worthy of a visit. There is a small garrison and a bull-ring here. The water for the city is brought from the mountains in a long aqueduct. A fort, which was built during the French occujaation, stands on 246 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the hill behind the city. Several cotton .and Avoolen fac- tories are found in the neighborhood, and a considerable trade in goat and sheep skins is carried on. The zarapes of Saltillo are famous. The Mexican International Rail- road Company is building a branch line about 40 miles long from Jural to Saltillo. The altitude of Jaral is 3,753 feet {vide p. 323). Saltillo is likely to become a resort for in- valids. The climate is temperate and dry. It has many advantages over Colorado, and the distance from New York or Philadelphia to either place is about the same. Leaving Saltillo, the railroad traverses a fertile valley in which Avheat, barley and maize are cultivated. The views along the route are beautiful. Passing the hamlets of Ba- mos Arispe, Santa Maria, OJo Calient e and Los Muertos, we reach Rinconada (31-1 miles). Here the altitude is 3,316 feet, or 1,084 feet lower than Saltillo. There is a large ranch near the station. The track leaves the broad canon near Rinconada. The grade now descends rapidly and the scenery becomes magnificent. The walls of the valley are formed of steep, rocky ridges with serrated out- lines. We now pass Los Fierros and Soledad and then stop at Garcia (elevation, 2,405 feet). There are two interest- ing caves about five miles from Garcia. The next station is Santa Catarina (59-6 miles). This village has a popula- tion of nearly 1,500. The famous jjotrero is about four miles distant. It is a pasture which is reached by a winding caflon intersecting the south side of the lofty and rocky sierra. The scenery is very picturesque. The limestone has been shaped into pinnacles, domes and towers. It re- minds the traveler of a miniature Yosemite. A very pleas- ant excursion from Monterey would be, to take the morn- ing train to Santa Catarina, visit the potrero on horse- back or on foot, and return to the city in the evening. The wagon-road passes Independence Hill, a few miles beyond Santa Catarina. It is an artificial mound about THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 247 150 feet high, with two Avooden crosses on the summit, erected to the memory of the heroes who fell at the battle of Monte7-ey iu 1847. There was considerable fighting in this region during the war with the United States. Among other soldiers who fought here and have since become fa- mous may be mentioned General William T. Sherman, who was then a lieutenant in the United States Army. We now pass the unimportant stations of Leona and San Geronimo. Continuing the journey toward Monterey^ the next place of interest is the Bishop's Palace, situated on a hill about 150 feet above the surrounding plain. A fort was built on this eminence and occupied by the Mexicans during the war. After a short resistance the Americans forced them to surrender. At present the Bishop's Palace is used as a barrack. The city is four miles distant. A spe- cies of dwarf palm-tree, popularly called the dagger-plant, grows here. The next stopping-place is Gonzalitos, and then comes Monterey, which is 670-1 miles from Mexico. 248 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. MONTEREY. Population, 40,000; elevation, 1,790 feet. Hotels. — Ilurbide, Monterey, Hidalgo. IBaths. — Del Refugio, in the Calle dc Dr. Mier. Carriages. — Four reales an hour. Post-Office, on ihc plaza. Telegraph-Offick, at the railway-station. Horse-Cars, from the piaza to the railway - station ; fare, a medio (Q>\ cents). The city is the capital of the State of Nuevo Leon., and is situated on the Rio de Santa Cata?'ina, in latitude 25° 40' 6" north, and longitude 0° 49' west of Mexico. It lies in a broad plain, with the majestic Bishop's Mitre, or Cerro de la Miira, on the west, and the unique Saddle-Mountain, or C'e?'7'0 de la Silla, on the east. Both of these hills are formed almost entirely of solid rock. The latter is 4,149 feet and the former 3,618 feet above the level of the sea. Monterey covers a great deal of ground. The houses are mostly of one story, except on the two public squares, where they have two stories. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral. 2. The Bishop's Palace (al- ready described). 3. The New Bridge, or Pucnte Xnevo. 4. The Tank, Ojo de Agua. 5. The Chapel of Guadalupe. 6. The Market. The bridge is famous as the scene of a battle between the ]\Iexicans and Americans. The former defended it successfully against the onslaught of the latter. Zealous Catholics in Monterey say that the image of the Virgin, then on the bridge, assured the victory of their country- men. The tank is much used for washing clothes and for bathing. Tlie stranger should ascend the hill known as tlie Caido, beyond the chapel of Gnadahijie and due south of the city. A carriage may be driven to within a hun- dred yards of the summit, or it can easily be reached on horseback. The view is one of the most picturesque in THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 249 the Republic and affords an opportunity of studying the topography of Monterey and the neighboring battle-fields. It reminds the traveler of Salzburg and several other towns in the Tyrol. If the tourist intends remaining long in the city, he may ascend the Saddle-Mountain, or the Bishop's Mitre. A visit should be made to the potrero (described on page 246). Native work, such as fancy baskets, purses, bird-figures, etc., can be purchased at the jail, which is in the old convent of San Francisco. Monterey has, perhaps, become more Americanized than any other Mexican town. The hotels are kept on the American plan ; and merchants, lawyers, doctors and den- tists from the United States have established themselves here. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity. The climate is dry and healthy, although very warm for half the year. Monterey is on the isothermal line that passes through the Canary Isles and Canton, in China. The prevailing wind is from the southeast. The following temperatures were taken in 1865 by Dr. E. Gonzalez, and given to the author : Mean temperature of the year 71° Fahr. Mean temperature of the winter 55° Mean temperature of the summer 83° Hottest month, July 84J° Coldest month, January 51° Maximum temperature. May 25th lOT" Minimum temperature, January 24th 32° Horse-cars run to the hot springs of Topo Chico, about three miles distant. A fine bath-house and a hotel have been erected there. 4. From Monterey to Laredo, 172 miles. Leaving Monterey station, which is about a mile and a half from the plaza., the road runs northward over the broad plain. The mountains surrounding the city present a mag- 250 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. nificent spectacle to the e3'e and are seen to best advantage from the rear platform of the last car. As the train moves onward, they appear to fade out of sight like a dissolving view. Much coin and bullion are transported over this route. Sometimes 1100,000 will be carried in the baggage- car of the train. Passing the hamlets of J'o/jo Cliico and Ramon Trevino, the next station is Tojjo (13 miles). Here the elevation is 1,590 feet, or 200 feet lower than Monterey. The next stop is made at Salinas (21 miles), where the altitude is 1,432 feet. This town has about 4,000 inhab- itants and is situated on a river of the same name. The surrounding region is fertile and produces fruit. The ad- joining canon contains silver-mines that are worked at the present time. Leaving Salinas, the lofty sierra still bounds the plain on the west. The ridge-line is, however, somewhat lower than at Monterey, and it decreases in height on running northward, until it assumes the form of a mesa, or terrace. "We now pass the villages of Morales, Palmetto, La Can- tera. El Puerto, Palo Blanco and Alamo, and then the train stops at Villaldama (59 miles). A forest of palm- trees is passed on the way, and the country toward the east continues level for many miles. The elevation of Villal- dama is 1,412 feet, and it is named after Aldama, one of the heroes of the War of Independence. The town lies about a mile east of the railroad and Avas formerly known as Boca de las Leones. The population numbers nearly 5,000, and it is chiefly descended from Spaniards. There are silver-mines in the vicinity and much ore is transported by rail to distant points for smelting ; a branch railway leads to the mines, about 12 miles from the main line. Leaving Villaldama, the next station is Guadahipe. Then we reach Bustamante (67 miles), Avhere a stop of twenty minutes is made for dinner. Passing the hamlets of Huisaclie, Golon- drinas, Salome Botello (83 miles), and Brazil, Ave come to THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 251 Lmnpazos (9G miles), which has an elevation of 1,032 feet. Copper-ores are " shipped " from Salome Botello. A rail- road is in course of construction from jSabinas, on the line of the Mexican International, to Lampazos. The latter town lies eastward of the track. Mexican blankets are manufactured here. Opposite Lampazos is the Mesa de los Cartujajios, a terrace rising about 2,000 feet above the plain. Its area is about 20X15 miles and it is accessible from only one point. This plateau affords good water, grass and timber. It was formerly used by Indians as a hiding-place. The mesa is owned by Patrick Milmo, an Irish settler, who married the daughter of an ex-Governor of JVuevo Leon. Mr. Milmo is also the proprietor of an immense amount of real estate in Monterey and the adjacent region. Leaving Lampazos, the train passes Mojina (109 miles) and Bodriguez (124 miles). Just before reaching the latter place the track makes a bend to the east. The elevation of Rodriguez is G51 feet. The country is now covered with ^^o;Ja/-bushes and inesqiiite. The mountain-ridge gradually subsides into the plain. We cross the Salado River, pass Camaroji, and reach Huisachito (135 miles), where the road- bed curves eastward. The next station is Jarita (148 miles). Here the altitude is 674 feet. The surrounding country is flat and uninteresting as far as the frontier. Passing San- chez (150 miles). New Laredo (166 miles) is reached. The latter place is 837-1 miles from the City of Mexico, XE^V LAREDO. Population, about 6,000; elevation, 438 feet. Hotels. — Rio Grande, and at the railway-station. This town was a part of old Laredo, on the opposite side of the river, before Texas was separated from Mexico. It is called JVuevo Laredo by the Mexicans. Commuuica- 252 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. tion has always been made by ferries, uutil the recent com- pletion of the iron railroad-bridge. There is also another bridge for wagons and pedestrians. Leaving New Laredo, the train passes the station of Bio Grande (108 miles), and then crosses the river, which is about one quarter of a mile wide. The water is muddj, and, in dry seasons, the river- channel becomes very narrow. The next stop is at Mexico Junctiun (1G9 miles). The track now makes a long bend to the northwest, and reaches Laredo, Texas (172 miles). Between the two Laredos, an express agent passes through the cars and checks baggage to any part of the latter cit}'. The customs inspector meets the train on arrival at the station of Xaevo Laredo, and examines baggage on the platform without causing any unnecessary delay to the passengers. There is a dining-room adjoining the station, owned and controlled by the Mexican Xational Railroad Company. LAREDO. Population, 6,000 ; elevation, 438 feet above the Gulf at Corpus Christi. Hotels. — Wilson House, Laredo Hotel. Tickets are sold at Laredo to all parts of the United States. The distance to Sau Antonio is 153 miles, and the time is 9|- hours. There is but one through passenger- train daily. The tourist can go eastward from San Anto- nio to Houston and Xew Orleans, or westward toward El Paso and California. The distance from — Miles. Laredo to the City of Mexico is 843 Laredo via Houston to New Orleans is 720 Laredo to St. Louis, Mo., via Texarkana is 1,084 Laredo to New York via St. Louis is 2,181 Laredo to New York via New Orleans is 2,398 THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. ^laVj Laredo Miles. Mexico Junction Pescadito 3 18 Aguilares 30 Los Angeles 46 Pena 61 Eealitos 75 5. From Lakedo to Corpus Christi, distance 161 miles. Time, 12^ hours. Fare, $4.83, or three cents a mile. The stations between Laredo and Corpus Christi are : Miles. Sweden 85 Benavides 91 San Diego 108 Collins 121 Banquete 136 Rogers 149 Corpus Christi 161 Corpus Christi (St. James Hotel) is the terminus of the Texas- Mexican Eailway, and is 1,004 miles from the City of Mexico. The mean depth of water at high tide on the bar is abont ten feet, and a recent congressional appropriation has led to the improvement of the channel. Xow that the Mexican National Eailroad is completed, it is expected that merchandise will be shipped from Europe and from the Eastern and Middle States to Corpus Christi, and sent thence by rail direct to the Mexican capital. (For additional information concerning the routes through Texas, see Jppletons'' General Guide to the United States.) 253« CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. ^ ^ -* - ^ ^ a" ' " " " a I— |«o50i:-!^^Jr-<^^05J^-.^-oom■^T^^i•~.I-(lx>Tt^t>•<^)o>oot-'>^.-(l ; ^ CO CO CO CO < ■cDcoco>nioioiOioir5ioiOiOiO>o-*rt<-*TiiTj<'^ fe 00 c t" i-^ H C fl g 3 S g OS" 5 c « :a « 5?h h-lc/;( .5 0.2,3 §o5 3flfc£OOOl>-rHJ>.(M000^r-l-*'^C0 I 00 O 00 T-l 00 OJ -- - -- -_ --_ -^CO-^OOOlOTOOOJO 000300CO 10 iOTj'i-i>-X^t-COCOOCOCOCOCOCO a clh! S g.t: C - P^ T, c S S S '^ ^ fl - P r^ a cj ^ J s:§:S..rs §0.1 1^3 |^£6 a 2.3 o I = 5 o ® < C5.— ■ ca C3^ c3 ^ w O .y — o a a TEE MEXICAN NATION AL RAILWAY. 2o3b cocc B CO J3 * ccHc a o ® =!! .r-« O r^^ C3 C3 Q =3 M 0-3 3 SS-S aJ-dH S'Sr'S 0-2^2 ^ S a^ ':D'<^-^^-HOTMoootoca^Xl'^c^^oo^-Hi>■o-?t^cooc<^coco"^coJ^-cooco(^^ 18 O S C3 u, o e Oh a § §"§c2 « |S i-5 ^^ g'g.S o t^S% ^.S a g SECTION V. The Mexican Central Railway (Ferrocarril Central Mexicano). (Compare with the chapter on railways.) Of the two branches of this road, the southern or prin- cipal one will be described first. Route I. FEOM THE CITY OF MEXICO TO ZACATECAS. 1. Mexico to Quereta7'0. 2. Queretaro to Guanajuato. 3. Guanajuato to Lagos. 4. Lagos to Guadalajara and San Bias. 5. Lagos to Zacatecas. 1. From Mexico to Queretaro, 246 kilometres, or 152| miles. Leaving the raih'oad-station at Buena Vista (elevation, 7,347 feet), the line runs northward over the broad valley of Mexico. The first station is Lecher ia (21 kilometres). The track of the Mexican National Eailway runs parallel with this road for several miles. The grade is slightly as- cending, Leclieria being 7,386 feet above the sea-level, or 39 feet above the City of Mexico. The snow-clad peaks of Popocatepetl and Lztacciliuatl remain in full view. "We now stop at the hamlets of Cuautitlan (27 kilometres), Teoloyucan (36 kilometres), and Huehuetoca (47 kilometres). Both of these American railroad companies have station- TEE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY, 255 houses at these three places, and the Mexican National Eailway crosses the Mexican Central at Hueliuetoca. The elevation of this point is 7,533 feet above the sea- level, according to Humboldt, or about 140 feet higher than the measurement of the railway-engineers. In general, it may be said that the distinguished German traveler and sci- entist, in taking altitudes with his barometer throughout the country, computed the elevations of the various points at somewhat higher figures than those of the engineers of the several railroads. Wheat and maize are cultivated in the vicinity of Huehuetoca. This village is famous in Mexican history as being the scene of one of the greatest hydraulic operations ever undertaken by man. Frequent in- undations of the City of Mexico, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, convinced the Spaniards that the system of dikes was insuflBcient to pro- tect the capital. It was decided that the artificial draining of the Lakes of Tezeiico, Zumpmigo, and San Cristobal, would be necessary. Two intelligent men, Obregon and Arciniega, proposed to the Govern- ment that a gallery should be made through the hills of Nochistongo, to the north-northwest of H^iehuetoca. This spot was perhaps the lowest in the mountains bounding the valley of Mexico on the north. In 160'7 the Marquis de Salinas, then viceroy, employed Enrico Martinez to begin the stupendous work of building a tunnel through the hills to drain the Mexican lakes. It received the name of the Desague (canal) de Huehuetoca. Work on the famous gallery of Nochistongo was commenced on November 28, leO*?. The viceroy, in the presence of the audiencia, applied the first pickaxe, and 15,000 Indians were given employment. After eleven months of continued labor, during which many hundreds of Indians perished from severe treat- ment, the tunnel {el socabon) was completed. Its length was more than four miles, its width eleven and a half feet, and its height fourteen feet. The water flowed through the canal for the first time on September 17, 1608. In the following December the viceroy and Archbishop of Mexico were invited by Martinez to witness it running, from the Lake of Zumpango and the Hio de Cuaudilan, through the tunnel. The Viceroy Salinas is said to have ridden upward of a mile into this underground passage. Scarcely had the water begun to flow from the valley of Mexico toward the Atlantic Ocean, when the canal was found to be too small. The loose earth surrounding the tunnel began to crumble, and it becume necessary to support the roof, which was composed of alternate strata of marl and stiff 256 CITIES Ay I) ROUTES OF TRA VEL. clay. At first wood was used, but afterward masonry was deemed prefer, able. The water, however, gradually undermined the lateral walls, and de- posited a large quantity of earth and gravel on the bottom of the canal. Martinez built small sluices at intervals to clear the passage, to obviate these difficulties. This remedy, however, proved insufficient, and the gallery was stopped up by the constant falling in of earth. From 1608 to 1614 various schemes for enlarging the canal were dis- cussed. In the latter year tlie court of JIadrid, wearied out by the disputes of the engineers, sent out Adrian Boot, a Dutchman of large experience in hydraulic architecture. He was in favor of the Indian system, and advised the construction of great dikes and mounds of earth around the capital, lie was unable to bring about the relinquishment of the Kocliistongo Canal till 1623. About this time a new viceroy (Guelves) arrived, who scouted the idea that the City of Mexico was in danger of floods. He had the temerity to order the desague to be closed, and to make the water of the Lakes of Zumpango and San Cristobal return to the Lake of Tezcuco, that he might see whether the peril was, in fact, as great as it had been represented. The last lake soon swelled rapidly, and the foolish direc- tions to the engineer Martinez were countermanded. The latter now began his operations anew, and continued them till June 20, 1629. Heavy rains fell, and suddenly the capital became inundated to the height of a metre (3J feet). Martinez was committed to prison. Con- trary to every expectation, Mexico remained flooded for five years, from 1629 to 1634! During this interval four different projects were presented and discussed by the Marquis de Ceralvo, the viceroy. The misery of the lower classes was singularly increased while the inundation lasted. Trade was at a stand, many houses tumbled down, and others were rendered un- inhabitable. The waters, however, in 1634, receded, the ground in the valley having opened on account of violent and very frequent earthquakes. The viceroy now set the engineer Martinez at liberty, lie was ordered to finish the dcmgue, by enlarging the original tunnel. The Government levied particular imposts on the consumption of commodities for the expense of these hydraulic operations. In 1637 the Viceroy Villena put the entire work in charge of Father Luis Flores, of the Order of St. Francis. It was decided to abandon the tunnel (socabon), to remove the top of the vault, and to make an immense cut through the mountain, of which the old subterranean passage was to be merely the water-course. The monks of St. Francis continued to letain direction of this work for about forty years, when Martin del Soils, a lawyer, obtained from the court of Madrid the administration of the desague. He proved to be in- 258 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. competent to manage such a gigantic engineering scheme, and the passage was stopped up. The canal had been opened and walled in a few years, but it required two centuries to complete the cut in a loose earth, in sec- tions of from 262 to 328 feet in breadth, and from 131 to 164 feet in per- pendicular depth. The work was neglected in years of drought, but renewed with extraordinary energy after a season of heavy rains. In 1*762 there were still at the northern extremity of the tunnel of Mar- tinez 6,356 feet which had never been converted into an open trench {lajo abicrto). At length, in 1Y67, the Flemish viceroy, the Marquis de Croix, undertook to finish the desague. The cut was enlarged, but, in fact, the great canal was never cntirel;) completed. Millions had been expended, and the Government, hesitating between the Indian system of dikes and the modern scheme of a canal and open cut through the hill, never had the courage to adhere to the same plan. The gallery was allowed to be choked up, because a wider and deeper one was required ; and the cut of Nochistongo was not to be finished, while the officials were disputing about the project of the canal of 2'ezcuco, which was never executed. In the beginning of the present century the entire length of the desague from south to north was 20,585 metres, or about 12f miles. This is reck- oning from the sluice of Vcrtideros, about 2^ miles south of Huehuetoca, to £1 Sallo del Rio de Tida. For further particulars about this great canal, the reader is referred to Humboldt's Political Essay on the Kingdom of Neio Spain, Black's translation, vol. ii, pp. 75-112, from which the above abstract is taken. Humboldt also discusses the scheme of extending the canal from El Salto to Tam- pico, on the Gulf of Mexico. For many 5'^ears this plan, although never undertaken, was considered practicable by the Mexicans. It may be remarked that a canal of such length could be used for irrigation in the dry season, as well as for the transportation of merchandise by small craft. Of course a great many locks would be necessary, as the difference of level between Huehuetoca and Tampico is 7,400 feet. The tourist can obtain a hasty view of this great hydraulic work from the car-window, as the track is now laid through the cut {tajo) of Nochistongo. But, to examine the desague I 6 THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 259 properly, a stop should be made at Hueliuetoca or El Salto, where a horse can be procured for the short journey. The traveler can leave Mexico in the morning by either road {i. e., the Mexican Central or the Mexican National), in- spect the ancient canal, and return in the afternoon train. Leaving Hueliuetoca, we pass Kilometer (53 kilometres), and the next station is El Salto (62 kilometres). Here the Mexican National Eailway crosses the Mexican Central again.* (Elevation of El Salto, 7,131 feet.) Between Hue- liuetoca and El Salto the road runs northwest, but from the latter station to San Antonio the general course of the track is westerly. The snow-clad volcanoes are no longer visible after leav- ing Tula (80 kilometres) {Hotel Diligencias). This town was once the great Toltec capital. Euins are found on the Hill of Treasure (see p. 48). From this station, having an elevation of 6,658 feet, the up-grade becomes quite percep- tible for a few miles. In 1893 a branch line was built to the city of Paclmca, 44 miles east. (See p. 196.) We now stop at San Ayitonio (93 kilometres ; elevation, 7,216 feet). Trees of iiopal, piril, and liuisaclii are abun- dant in places where the laud has not been cultivated. The general direction of the route is now west-northwest. The country is rolling, and good for stock-raising. Pass- ing the stations of Angeles (112 kilometres). Marques (122 kilometres), Nopala (130 kilometres), Daftu (138 kilome- tres), Polotitlan (151 kilometres), and Cazadero (161 kilome- tres), the train describes a long curve, and reaches San Juan del Rio (191 kilometres). The highest point of the railroad is just east of Marques station. Here the altitude is 8,134 feet, or 787 feet above the capital. Thence the grade is downward toward Polotitlan — elevation, 7, 534 feet, and San Juan del Rio — 6,300 feet. * El Salto is 67 "29 kilometres from Mexico, via the Mexican National Railway. 260 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. This latter town is situated in a broad and very fertile plain, where cereals are cultivated. Some of the best agri- cultural land in the Kepublic lies between here and Leo7i. The population of San Juan del Rio is about 12,000, and the streets are wide and well paved. It was formerly one of the largest woolen manufacturing cities in the country. The train stops thirty minutes at this place for breakfast. The restaurant is very well kept, and the eastward and westward passenger-trains usually meet here. AJiorcado (316 kilometres) is the next station ; elevation, 6,258 feet. The track now runs slightly downward over a productive region, passing the immense cotton-mills at Her- cules, and reaches Queretaro (246 kilometres). QUERETARO. Population, 38,000 in 1882; elevation, 6,363 feet, according to Hum- boldt, and 5,904 feet, according to the railroad-engineers. Hotels. — Diliffencias, Del Ferrocarril Centi-al, Del Aguila Roja, Ruiz, and Hidalgo. Baths, in the Calk cle Locutorios. Post-Office, in the same street. Queretaro is the capital of the State of the same name, and was founded by the Aztecs about the middle of the fifteenth century. It was conquered by the Spaniards, under Fernando de Tapia, a lieutenant of Cortes, in 1531. The city contains many fine edifices, several public squares, and numerous paved streets. It has a temperate climate, and fruits, flowers, and the cereals grow abundantly in the environs. The water-supply comes from a neighboring mountain, by means of a stone aqueduct, some of the arches of which are ninety feet high. The cost of this structure was 1124,000, the greater part of which was paid by the Marquis de Villar del Aguila, to whom the citizens have erected a statue on one of the plazas. Places of Interest. — 1. The Churches of San Francisco, or the Ca- thedral ; San Antonio, San Agustin, Santo Domingo, Santa Clara, El Car' THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 261 mew, de la Cruz, and Sanla Rosa. Santa Clara is the finest of all, and contains exquisite gilt wooden carvings. A convent adjoins it. 2. The JJei'cules cotton-mill. 3. M Cerro de las Campanas. 4. The Alameda, with beautiful groves of ash-trees. No traveler should leave the country without visiting the famous Hercules mill. The railroad-track runs close to ifc, and the distance by carriage from Queretaro is about two miles. The factory was begun in 1840 by Senor Rubio. The cost of building it, together with the ground, was $4,000,000. It is a sort of citadel. Inclosed by a high wall, provided with port-holes, occupying several acres, and giv- ing employment to 1,400 operatives, it forms a manufactur- ing town of itself. The Rubio family live here, and their apartments ad- join a beautiful garden, laid out with artificial ponds and statues. The buildings are of stone, and the machinery has been imported principally from England. Both steam and water power are used in the factory, and it has one of the largest overshot wheels in the world, being fifty feet in diameter. The operatives are all Mexicans. There are, however, half a dozen Europeans employed as foremen and superintendents. The force of hands is kept working both day and night, and an immense number of yards of un- bleached cotton, called manta, is manufactured annually. Senor es Rubio have a small "army" of thirty-eight sol- diers, who are provided with muskets and howitzers. Thus far the owners have defended their property saccessfully against the insurgents during several revolutions. The proprietors say that there has been but one strike among the operatives during the last twenty-five years. Don Cayetano Rubio is the present manager of the es- tablishment. He went to Manchester, England, when a lad, and learned the trade of cotton-spinning. He is very polite to strangers, and sends a clerk to accompany them through the factory. The Hercules mill suggests much 2G2 CITIES AND ROUTES OE TRAVEL. material for study to foreigners who are reckoning on the future of manufactures in Mexico. The Cerro de las Gampanas is the hill on the north side of which the unfortunate Maximilian was shot. During the empire, earthworks were built on this eminence, which rises about one hundred feet above the plain. The Liberal army, under General Escobedo, besieged Qtieretaro while Maximilian was in command. Through the treachery of Colonel Miguel Lopez, the Emperor was taken prisoner, and his forces subsequently surrendered to the Liberals. Maximilian was tried before a court-martial, and sentenced to be shot. Persistent efforts were made to save his life. The Princess Salm-Salm is said to have ridden to San Luis Potosi, the seat of the Republican Government, 160 miles distant, and begged President Juarez to pardon the adventurer from Miramar. The Government of the United States was appealed to in vain. None of the European potentates ventured to intercede, and Maximil- ian, together with his comrades in arms, Generals Miramon and Mejia, was shot on June 19, 1867. His body was sub- sequently taken to Vienna for interment. The night before the Emperor's execution, he wrote the following letter to his wife, who was then a maniac, confined in one of the palaces of her father, the King of the Belgians : " To MY BELOVED CHARLOTTE : If God cver permits 30U to recover and read these lines, you will learn the cruelty of the fate which has not ceased to pursue me since your departure for Europe. You carried with you my soul and my happiness. Why did I not listen to you ? So many events, alas ! so many unexpected and unmerited catastrophes, have overwhelmed me, that I have no more hope in my heart, and I await death as a delivering angel. I die without agony. I shall fall with glory, like a soldier, like a conquered king. If you have not the power to bear so much suffering, if God soon reunites us, I shall bless the divine and paternal hand which has so rudely stricken us. Adieu ! Adieu ! Thy poor • Max." A diligence runs three times a week from Queretaro to San Luis Potosi, the distance being 160 miles, and the fare TEE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 263 is $10. The road is rough, and two days are required for the trip. The route passes through two towns named after heroes of the War of Independence — San Miguel de Allende, a well-built city of about 20,000 inhabitants, and Dolores Hidalgo. The latter was the parish of the illustrious^afZre^ Hidalgo, and it was here that he sounded the key-note for the Independence of Mexico, while addressing the populace on the 16th of September, 1810. 2. From Queretaeo to Guanajuato, 160 kilometres, oi" 100 miles. Leaving Queretaro, the road traverses a rich agricultural plain bounded by hills of moderate extent. The track runs nearly due west to Calera (264 kilometres), elevation, 5,904 feet, and the grade is now slightly downward. Passing the station of Apaseo (278 kilometres), we reach Celaya (292 kilometres), where the elevation is 5,800 feet. At the latter point the main line of the Mexican National Eailway crosses the track. (For a description of this route, see Section IV, pp. 237-252.) Celaya {Hotel Cortazar) lies in a broad plain. The population is about 15,000. The town is noted for its churches. Those of San Francisco and El Carmen are worthy of a visit. Several woolen-factories are found here. There are also factories of cotton thread at the town of Sal- vatierra, 20 miles distant. Celaya is destined, now that these trunk-lines are com- pleted, to become a place of some importance. Leaving this station, the road continues in a westerly direction with a gradual descent to Guaje (311 kilometres), and thence to Salamanca (333 kilometres). The latter place has an altitude of 5,680 feet, and a population of 13,000. It is celebrated for the manufacture of leathern clothing and gloves. Boys bring the latter into the cars for sale. There are also rich deposits of kaolin and white clay here. The best hotel is the Cortazar. At Salamanca the line takes a 2G4 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. northwesterly direction, and, passing the station of Chico (344 kilometres), reaches Irainiato (353 kilometres). A branch road connects the latter town with Guadalajara. The popu- lation of Irapuato is about 12,000, (See slip facing this page.) The track now ascends in approaching Villalohos (370 kilometres), and the next station is Silao (383 kilometres). SILAO. Population, about 10,000 ; elevation, 5,910 feet. Hotel. — Hidalgo. Also an excellent restaurant kept by a Frenchman opposite the station. The town lies in a district where two crops of wheat and maize are grown annually. Irrigation is necessary, how- ever, and the water is commonly raised from the ditches by a rude bucket-wheel worked by man-power. The wheat-harvest is thirty-five and forty for one, and sometimes even as high as fifty or sixty to one. In the farms that are properly irrigated, the wheat is twice watered : first, when the young plant springs up in the month of January ; and, secondly, in the beginning of March, when the ear is on the point of developing itself. Sometimes even the entire field is inundated before sowing. This method resembles the mode of cultivation of the cereals in lower Egypt. ( Vide p. 95.) A branch road leads to Guanajuato, 23 kilometres dis- tant. This town is situated in the low range of mount- ains that forms the northern boundary of the plain. The intervening region has an undulating surface, and very little vegetation except the nopal. The branch track runs northeasterly, and the upward grade is heavy. It was finished in November, 1882. The line is built as far as Marjil (18 kilometres). At this station, both stage-coaches and horse-cars connect with Guanajuato, 5 kilometres dis- tant. The fare in the former is 25 cents for each passenger THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 264« GUADALAJARA DIVISIOX. List of Stations, with the Distances. Irapuato to Guadalajara, 259-1 kilometres, or 161 miles. Distance from Irapuato. STATIONS. Distance from Guadalajara. Kilos. 0-0 Irapuato * Kilos. 259-1 5-1 San Miguel 254-0 16-4 Rivera 242 7 24-0 Cuitzeo f 2351 38-2 San Rafael . 220-9 49-8 Penjarao * 209-3 64-1 Villaseiior "I- 195-0 '71-2 Palo Verde 187 9 84-7 Cortes f 174-4 91-3 La Picdad * 167-8 111-4 Pattif 147-7 125-7 Yurecuaro * 133-4 146-7 Negrete 112-4 153-1 1 La Barea * * 106-0 157-8 Feliciano 101-3 166-1 Limon f 93-0 179-3 196-8 Ocotlan* Poncitlan * 79-8 62-3 218-4 Atequiza * 40-7 226-7 La Capilla f 32-4 234-3 El Castillo f 24 8 259-1 Guadalajara * 0-0 * Telegraph stations. f Flag-stations. # Eating-house. X Connection is made with Lake Chapala. This branch line was begun on May 2, 1887, and completed on April 17, 1888. It is expected that the Guadalajara division will derive con- siderable business from Lake Chapala, which it touches by means of the Lerma River at La Barca and at Ocotlan. The railway company owns a steamboat that makes regular trips around the lake touching at the several villages. The tourist is strongly advised to make the tour of Lake Chapala. The president of the company is unable to say when the line from Guadalajara westward to the Pacific will be commenced. By an amend- ment to the concession in 1886, the company has the privilege of choosing some other port than San Bias. TEE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 265 with ordinary baggage, and in the tramway 15 cents, first class, and 7 cents, second class. The railway company in- tends to extend its track to Guanajuato in a few months. GUANAJUATO. Population, 56,112; elevation, 6,836 feet, according to Humboldt. Hotels. — Del Suizo, Bayas, and Diligencias. Restaurants. — De Bordeaux, Frances. Guanajuato is the capital of the State of the same name, and lies in latitude 21° north, and longitude 1° 49' west of the City of Mexico. The city was founded by the Spaniards in 1554. It re- ceived the royal privilege of villa (town) in 1619, and that of ciudad (city) on the 8th of December, 1741. Places of Interest. — 1. The Church of La Parroquia. 2. The Mint. 3. The Prison {El Carcel). 4. The Silver-mills {haciendas de beneficios). 5. The Silver-mines. 6. Ccrro (hill) de San Miguel. V. The Faseo. In 1803 Humboldt states that the population untJiin the city was 41,000, and in the adjacent mines of Marjil, Santa Ana, Santa Rosa, Valenciana, Rayas, and Mellado, it was 29,600, making a total of 70,600, of whom there were 4,500 Indians. The same writer, in his Political Essay on New Spain, vol. iii, p. 138, ranks Guanajuato first in a list of the richest mining districts of Mexico. He remarks also that the vein of Guatiajuato, from the end of the sixteenth century to the year 1800, produced /owr^eew hun- dred million [1,400,000,000) francs worth of silver, besides some gold. (See chapter on mines, in Part First.) This vein is familiarly called the Veta Madre, and the mines on it began to be worked in 1558. For several years past these mines have not paid well, and it is believed by many persons that their mineral wealth has been exhausted. This imjDression, however, is not well founded, as the mines have in only two instances {Rayas and Valenciana) been explored to a depth of 1,500 266 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. feet. It is highly probable that rich bodies of ore will be met with by sinking the shafts deeper. There are several families of great wealth in Guana- juato, whose fortunes have been acquired in silver-mining. Humboldt states that the Count de Valenciana dug three pits in one mine at an expense of $1,700,000. The pro- prietors of these mines are unwilling to sell them except at a large profit, as this class of real estate is regarded as a good investment. At present but two English companies own mineral property in this region. One of them has an agency for the examination and purchase of Mexican mines. Thus far the Americans have not bought mines in this vicinity. Their mineral lands are mostly in the northern States of the Eepublic. The traveler will have no better chance of visiting a mine than in Guanajuato. Accordingly, he is advised to descend one of the many pits in the suburbs. The Rayas * and Nopal mines are both dry and wqII arranged. A car- riage may be driven to the latter, and within a short walk of the former. Strangers are treated with great civility, and no card of admission is necessary. The tourist will have an opportunity of seeing the cele- brated peons at work, with their primitive tools and meth- ods of mining. But he will be obliged to descend and ascend the massive stone steps to reach the vein, as no ''elevators " have thus far come into use. A fee of twenty- five cents will be sufficient to give the boy who accompanies the traveler through the mine. (See p. 81.) There are fifty mills for crushing and reducing silver- ores in Guanajuato . All of them are worked by horse- power, except tlie Parclo mill, which is operated by steam. This mill has six stamps and twenty-two arrastras. The * The Rayas mine has throe shafts, the deepest of which is 1,640 feet, In April, 1883, two thousand peons were employed. THE MEXICAX CENTRAL RAILWAY. 267 ore is brought in sacks from the neighboring mines by iDack- mules, and it is worked by the cold amalgamation or patio process, which was invented in 1557 by Bartolome Medina, a Mexican miner. A description of it may be of interest : The ore is first put in the mill (molino), which is a circular depression in the ground, and crushed by a revolving stone wheel covered with a thick cast-iron tire, and having a horizontal axis. The wheel is moved by two mules attached to a long shaft. There is a coarse iron sieve in the center of the mill, at the base of the vertical post in which the axle of the wheel is fastened. As the ore is crushed, a peo7i shovels it against the sieve, and the smaller pieces pass through an opening in the ground surrounding the post, and are collected in a vault below. The small particles of ore are now carried in litters to the arrastras, which are flat stones of porphyry, or some other hard rock, about three feet long, which revolve in a large tub. The tub is half full of water, and the arrastras grind the fragments of silver-ore into a fine powder in about twenty-four hours. Mules are used to give a rotary motion to the arrastras, each itnimal working six hours. The machinery is run day and night. The next step is the conveyance of the pulverized ore, called lama, in a trough (batea) to the pado or court-yard. The patio is paved with large flat stones, and the soft lama is allowed to accumulate to a depth of about two feet. This muddy mass is then mixed with magistral,* or blue vitriol, salt, and quicksilver, by scattering these sub- stances with the hand, and employing mules to walk about in the t07-ta, as it is now termed. A laborer rolls up his breeches and stands in the torta, holding the reins of three mules harnessed together, and drives the animals around him, changing his position every few minutes, in order to impreg- nate the powdered ore thoroughly with the several chemicals. The mules tramp through the torta for seven hours daily, and the time required to mix the mass properly varies from two to four weeks, accord- ing to the quality of the ore. The io)'fa is then carried in litters to the lavaderos, or large cisterns, where it is washed and stirred by means of revolving sticks. The silvery mass being heavy, of course, settles at the bottom, and in two or three days the muddy water is drawn off. The amalgam, or pclla, which has been formed, is now taken from the lavaderos to a sort of oven or depres- sion in the ground, covered with a huge metallic hood termed a capellina. A fire is built around the capellina, and the mercury is separated by distil- lation in about four days. The block of silver which remains is transported to the nearest mint, and worked into coin or sold. The law of Mexico com- * Native sulphide of iron and copper. 19 268 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. pels the owners of haciendas de beneficios to send their silver to the mint. If the owner wishes to export the bullion, he must first obtain a certificate from the director of the establishment. N. B. — A picture of i\iQ patio process may be found on p. 198. The peons are searelied, when leaving the silver-works, at the end of the day's work, as fragments of tlie precious metal are often concealed in their hair and clothing. (See p. 81.) The prison, or carcel, is worthy of a visit. It occupies an eminence in the heart of the city, near the causeway (calzada), and was formerly a castle. It was also the last stronghold of the Sjianiards in Guanajuato during the great revolution. The castle was defended with fire-arms, while the Mexicans had merely primitive weapons, such as clubs, knives, missiles, etc. Finding the fortress impregnable, the latter approached the gate on all-fours, with flat stones on their backs to serve as armor, and set fire to it. The Spanish oppressors surrendered, and the natives decapitated four of the leaders, and hung their heads in the corners of the court-yard of the castle. The prison is a two-storied building, about 150 feet long and 75 feet wide. The inmates work at various trades. The traveler should ascend the Cerro de San Miguel, which lies south of the mint, and about twenty minutes' walk fi'om the plaza, to obtain a correct idea of tbe location of Guanajuato. It will be seen that the city is built in a gorge, surrounded by rolling hills. The narrow streets are winding, and they have a cobble-stone pavement. The tourist is reminded of the towns in the Swiss Alps. Look- ing across the city, the observer has a fine view of the prin- cipal suburbs, the mines being chiefly on the northern and western sides of Guanajuato . There are some foreigners living in the city. They are mostly French, although a few Germans, Spaniards, Eng- lishmen, and Americans can be included in the number. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 2G9 The inhabitants are disposed to introduce modern inven- tions, such as the electric hght and telephone. A New York company has erected seventy-five telej)hones, many of which connect the mines with the houses and offices of the owners. The greater part of the population of Guanajuato con- sists of miners, who are an industrious and well-to-do class of people. On Sundays they dress up in their best clothes, and walk on the plaza and paseo with their families. The tourist can spend a week in Guanajuato to advan- tage, during which an excursion may be made to Dolores Hidalgo, about 35 miles northeast of the city. (See p. 363. ) 3. From Guanajuato to Lagos, 115 kilometres, or 72 miles. Leaving Guanajuato, the stage-coach sets out from the door of the hotel, and connects with the train at Marfil, 5 kilometres distant. The track has a downward grade nearly all the way to Silao, 18 kilometres farther. The railroad company has erected a large wooden station and freight- house at the latter point. This branch road carries large quantities of quicksilver, salt, and magistral to Marfil for the silver-reducing works. (See p. 267.) From Silao the road continues in a northwest course through the fertile plain, passing the station of Trinidad (402 kilometres), and reaches Leon (416 kilometres). The grade ascends slightly to a point just west of Trinidad, having an altitude of 5,963 feet, and then descends toward Leon, LEON". Population, about 80,000 ; elevation, 5,862 feet. Hotels. — Comercio, de la Luz, Colon. Tramways run to the city, 1| mile north of the station ; fare, 10 cents for each passenger. The towers of the cathedral and several domes of the churches are visible from the train. Leon is noted for its manufactories of saddles and leathern goods, and a quarry of building-stone is found near 270 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the town. It is said to have hud 1GG,000 inhabitants in 1865. The residents claim that their city is second to the national capital in population. It is, however, greatly in- ferior to Guadalajara and Pv.ehla in mercantile importance and in places of interest. The city lies near the edge of the rich cereal belt of the table-land, which is about 80 miles long and from 21 to 2G miles wide. From Leon the railroad goes north-westerly with an as- cending grade toward Layos. Passing the stations of Fran- cisco (432-2 kilometres), Pedrito (447-G kilometres), and Lovia (461-3 kilometres), the train arrives at Lagos (474-9 kilometres). LAGOS. Population, 10,000; elevation, 6,154 feet. Hotel. — Diligencias. Places of Interest. — The churches of La Parroquin, San Francisco, Merced, and the building formerly used as a Capuchin convent. 4. From Lagos to Gpadalajaua and San Blas. Guadalajara lies about 130 miles west of Lagos. Before the comjjletion of this railway a diligence ran between these two places, but now Guadalajara is reached by rail from Irapuato, as stated on p. 264«. The chief places of interest on this branch are near the stations of La Barca and El Castillo. A steamboat starts from La Barca and makes the tour of Lake Chapala. Near El Castillo is the famous cataract of Joanacatlan, which is called the " Niagara " of ]\Iexico. GUADALAJARA. Population, 100,000 ; elevation, 5,052 feet. Hotels. — Nacional, Hidalgo, Diligcncias and Nuevo Mundo. The city is situated in latitude 20° 41' north, and on the west bank of the Rio de Santiago (the largest river in TEE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 271 Mexico except the Bio Grande). It is the capital of the State of Jalisco. The houses are well huilt and the streets are wide and laid out at right angles. Some travelers con- sider Guadalajara to be the finest city in the Eepublic. There are four lines of tramways leading to the suburbs. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral and Sagrario. 2. The Gov- ernment Palace. 3. The Bishop's Palace. 4. The Mint. 6. The City Hall. 6. The Academy of Fine Arts. V. The Degollado Theatre. 8. The Plaza de Armas. 9. The Alameda. Plaza de Ai-mas., Guadalajara. The first three buildings are situated on the Plaza de Armas. The Cathedral was completed in 1618, and is one of the oldest in Mexico. The cnpolas of both towers were destroyed by the great earthquake of May 31, 1818. The city can boast of fourteen public squares, a univer- sity, and an academy of fine arts— the only one in the Ee- public except that of San Carlos at the capital. Much glazed pottery is made here ; it is quite ornamental, and 272 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. may be found in the shops at the City of Mexico. There are several woolen and cotton manufactories in Guadalajara. Opinions are divided as to whether this city or Pnebia should rank next to Mexico in wealth and commercial im- portance. Guadalajara lies in a fertile region. The cereals, fruits and vegetables grow in abundance. Some farms are said to yield as much as forty bushels of Indian corn to the acre. The following table of distances will be found useful : From Guadalajara to the City of Mexico via Irapuato. . 381 miles. " " Tepic 258 " " " San Bias 300 " " " Colima 142 " " " Manzanillo 211 " " " Morelia 191 " " " Aguascalientes (by rail) 305 " An excursion may be made to the Lake of Chapala, about 40 miles distant. This lake is the largest in Mexico, having an area of 415 square miles. (See p. 30.) There are several islands in it, on one of which ruins have been found. A small American steamboat makes a tour round the lake daily. The depth of Lake Chapala has not yet been ascertained. Diligences run from Guadalajara to San Bias, 300 miles distant, via the villages of Amatitan, Tequila, Ixtlan, Te- titan, Zapotlan, and Tepic. The latter place is a manu- facturing town of 20, 000 inhabitants. It is noted for pro- ducing a fine quality of cigars. The elevation of Tepic is 3,050 feet. The Mexican Central Railway Company will build a branch line from Guadalajara toward San Bias, which will run parallel to the stage route, or nearly so. It is expected that this branch will be finished in 1893. San Bias has a population of 3,500. The Pacific Mail steamers touch at this port once a month. The distance to San Francisco is 1,519 miles, and the fare is $85. M ipipilillljlllil gill 11 iiiii THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 273 From Lagos to Zacatecas, 231 kilometres, or 143"5 miles. Leaving Lagos, the track runs nearly due northward. The road crosses a fertile plain where the cereals are raised. The chief object of interest on the route is the fine iron bridge over the Encarnacion River, at an altitude of 150 feet above the stream. It is the only iron truss-bridge on the main line of this railway. The elevation of the station is 6,072'6 feet. Near the town is an irrigating reservoir with a massive stone dam. The stations between Lagos and Encarnacion are Las Salas, Santa Barbara and Sa?ita Maria. These places lie in Jalisco. The train then enters the State of Aguascalientes, and, after passing Penuelas, reaches the city of that name (585'1 kilometres, or 363'6 miles). AGUASCALIENTES. Population, 40,000; elevation, 6,1'79 feet. Hotels. — Biligencias, Nacional, de la Plaza. Baths on the Alameda ; hot baths at 20 and 25 cents. Places of Interest. — The Cathedral, Flaza de Annas and the Paseo. The last named is one of the finest parks in the Republic. A large mili- tary band plays there in the evening. FROM AGUASCALIEJS'TES TO SAN" LUIS POTOSI. 224-'7 kilometres, or ISQ'V miles. The eastern division of the Mexican Central extends from Aguascalien- tes to Tampico, 414-9 miles. (See pp. 240, 241 for description of this line between San Luis Potosi and Tampico.) The tourist is advised to visit Salinas on the way to San Luis Potosi. The Intervening region is arid and very barren for the most part. A few cattle and sheep are raised along the route. The country is gently rolling and is covered with 7iopal, taza- hillo, huisachi and dagger-plant, interspersed with a little mesquite. There are several salt lagoons at Salinas, or Las Saliyias de la Rena Blanca, its full name, and the owner, Senor Erazos, has built a stately resi- dence, which is surrounded by a stone wall and a deep moat. A draw- bridge across the moat is raised at night, reminding the traveler of the 274 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. baronial castles of the middle ages. These fortifications were useful when the country was infested with bandits. The town has a population of about 5,000, and the inhabitants live chiefly by means of the salt industry. The largest salt-works in Mexico are here, and the product is sent to all parts of the Republic for silver-reduction and for domestic use. The altitude of Salinas is 6,808 feet, being the highest point on the route. From this station to San Luis Polosi the track runs almost due east, with a downward grade through a rolling country. (For description of San Luis Potosi, see pp. 238-240.) Tickets from Aguascalientes to San Luis Potosi and return are sold at ten dollars. United States currency. The following is a list of stations, with the distances: Kilometres * Aguascalientes .... 00 *Chicalote 14-3 f Canada 205 \Oallardo 31-0 \El Tule 35-6 *San Gil 50-8 \San Marcos 59-0 \ Garcia 70'0 *La Honda 82-8 Kilometres. \Penon Blanco 93 "8 * Salinas 109-9 *Espiritu Santo ... 137*1 \Tolosa 152-9 \solana 162-4 ^Arenal 178-6 *Ahualulco 189-5 f Estanzucla 211-4 *San Luis Potosi. . . 224*7 Leaving Aguascalientes, the railroad traverses a flat and barren country. The first station is ChicaJote (599-4 kilo- metres) from the City of Mexico. Here the eastern branch of this railway leaves the main line. From this point the grade of the road-bed is npward all the way to Zacatecas. The train then stops at Las Animas (G08 kilometres) ; Pahel- I6n (615-2 kilometres) ; Rincon de Romos (623-7 kilometres) ; Soledad (644-2 kilometres) ; Berriozdhal (660-1 kilometres), where the track enters the State of Zacatecas; Tra7icoso (680-7 kilometres) ; Guadalupe (696 kilometres) ; and arrives at Zacatecas (705-9 kilometres, or 75 miles from the city of Aguasccdientes). The city of Zacatecas is nearly 2,000 feet above the station at Aguascalientes. * Telegraph stations. f Flag-stations. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 27 o Some interesting ruins of Indian architecture are found at Quemada, about 30 miles southwest of Zacatecas, and 2|- miles north of the village of La Quemada, at an eleva- tion of 7,406 feet above the sea-level. The remains are situated on a rocky eminence that rises abruptly from the plain. It is called ^'El Cerro de los Edificios.'' The summit is reached by a causeway. An area of six acres has been inclosed by a broad wall, forming a sort of citadel. This barrier surrounds a quadrangle 240 X 200 feet, which to the east is sheltered by a strong wall of unhewn stones, eight feet in thickness and eighteen in height. A raised terrace of twenty feet in width passes round the northern and eastern sides of this space, and on its southeast corner is yet standing a round pillar of rough stones of the same height as the wall, and nineteen feet in circumference. There are vestiges of five other pillars on the eastern, and four on the northern terrace. There is another quad- rangle surrounded by perfect walls of the same height and thickness as the former one, and measuring 134 x 137 feet. This space contains fourteen columns of equal dimensions with that of the adjacent inclosure. They were made of clay mixed with straw. There is a flat-topped pyramid of hewn stown in one of the quadrangles. Two small pyramids may also be seen. One chamber has an irregular structure 7x5 feet near the center. It was probably an altar, and the room may have been used as the Hall of Sacrifice or Assembly. These ruins are probably the work of the Aztecs. At Guadalupe, 4 miles from Zacatecas, the land rises rapidly. The former town is seen in the distance several miles before it is reached. It contains many furnaces and silver-mills, in which the ores from Zacatecas are worked. On account of the presence of suljDhur, the ores are gener- 276 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. ally roasted before being treated iu the crushing and re- ducing-mills. The stage-coach enters a canon at Guadalupe, and, traveling up a heavy grade, the old mining settlement of Zacatecas is reached. The latter place is T5 miles from Aguascalientes, and the time required to make the dis- tance is 3^ hours. ZACATECAS. Population, 46,000, including Guadalupe ; elevation, 9,01*2 feet,* accord- ing to Burkart. Hotels. — Zacaiccdtw, Del Coincreio, Xacional^ and Del Progreso. Baths, in the Fleiza de Annas. Post-Office in the Calle de la Moncda. Horse-Cars to Guadalupe (sec time-table). Zacatecas is one of the oldest mining toTms in Mexico. It received the title of city in 1585 from Philip 11. The streets are well paved and somewhat tortuous, although not as much so as in Guanajuato. The city is not behind the age, even if lately (1884) reached by the Central Eail- wav, and a considerable distance from any seaport. The electric light shines on the plaza, and a number of tele- phones are in use. Zacatecas lies in an arid and mountain- ous region, with an inclement climate. Places OF Interest. — 1. The Cathedral ; observe carvings on the fa9ade. 2. The Palace. 3. The Mint. 4. The JBufa, a hill north of the city. 5. The silver-mines. There are fourteen churches of minor importance- and a Protestant chapel. Some of them are ornamented with ar- tistic gilt wooden carvings and old paintings, that were transported to the city at enormous expense. The tourist should ascend the Bufa, about 500 feet above the plaza, for a view of the city and its environs. There is a small chapel on the summit, known as the * This is too hish an estimate; 8,044 feet would be more correct. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 277 Capilla de la Bufa. It is worthy of remark that several kinds of igneous rocks occur near each other on this moun- tain. The observer will see that the city is built in a valley, surrounded by rolling hills, which contain numerous mines. He stands on top of a ridge that rises from the great table- land. To the westward lies the spur of the Sierra Madre, which extends nearly to the Pacific coast. There are many low ridges running north and south, that are situated on the eastern and northern sides of the Zacatecas range. The country is very barren, scarcely a particle of vegetation being visible. The broad plain below has an elevation of about 7,000 feet, and there are nine small lakes of salt and carbonate of soda in this plain, a few miles from Zacatecas. This salt is transported to Guadalupe for use in the silver- mills. The geological formation of this district has been compared by Humboldt to that of Switzerland. The mines next demand attention. In mineral wealth Zacatecas is the richest State in Mexico. The district, however, which includes the city, does not rank first. In 1804 Humboldt placed Zacatecas third in a list of the principal mining towns. Guanajuato ranks first and Catorce second in the pro- duction of the precious metals. The Veta Grande, or great vein, is next in magnitude to the Veta Madre of Guana- juato. Its average width is about 25 feet, and in a few places it has a breadth of 75 feet, although the entire mass is not metalliferous. The mines of Zacatecas began to be worked in 1548. Up to the year 1T32 they are said to have produced the enormous sum of $832,232,880, on which a tax of $46,523,000 was paid to the Spanish treas- ury. About 1728 the mines of Zacatecas yielded $1,800,000 annually, which was then estimated as one fifth of all the silver coined in Mexico. During the War of Independence, the amount of pre- 278 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. cious metal extracted greatly diminished ; and at the pres- ent time (1891) these mines are not doing well. It remains to be seen whether their wealth is exhausted, or whether new bodies of ore will yet be found in paying quantities. There are a dozen mines within a half-hour's walk of the principal hotels, and which can readily be visited. It is best to go in the morning. A series of ladders is used in most of them, instead of the massive stone steps as in Guanajuato. The largest mine is the San Rafael, and the oldest one bears the name of the famous Cortes. The latter is about two miles north of the city. An English company owns the Glerigos mine. Two other mines in the vicinity are also owned by Englishmen. There is one American company in Zacatecas, called the Chicago and Mexican Syn- dicate, that controls several mines in this district. Stage-coaches run from Zacatecas as follows: To Durango^ distance, 228 miles ; fare, $14.00. " Jerez, " 40 " " 1.50. " Villa Kueva, " 65 " " 1.25. " Fremillo, " 46 " " 1.00. A well-known Mexican, named Sada, has run a line of ambulances, called "the money-train," from Zacatecas to Monterey for many years. Before the Mexican National Railway was built, Sada drove his wagons as far as the fron- tier, at Laredo. The time required to reach Monterey is six days and a half, and the fare is $40, including board and lodging on the journey. A dozen mounted guards ac- company the train. Bullion and silver coin are carried chiefly, although packages and personal baggage will also be forwarded. The route to Monterey traverses an arid and barren region, having a gently undulating surface, and very little vegetation, except the various species of cactus. The road goes via the hacienda de Cedres and Saltillo. This hacienda is the only redeeming feature of the trip, and it is one of the largest in Northern Mexico. There are THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 279 some silver-mines on it, as well as many horses, cattle, and slieep. The train of ambulances starts about daybreak, and travels till noon ; then a long rest is taken, after which the wagons continue the journey till sundown. Many extra mules follow the train, and, when one of the animals grows tired, a change is at once made.* Zacaiecas is nearly the southernmost town in which Americans have in- vested capital in mines. They have, however, lately purchased mineral property at Sombrerete and at Durango. The city of Durango is three days' journey by diligence from Zacatecas. The population of the city is 35,000, and, according to Humboldt, the alti- tude is 6,847 feet. It is situated in the plain of San Antonio, about 30 miles east of the Sierra Madre. Durango is the capital of the State of the same name, and lies in latitude 24° 2' north. Near the city of Durango is the famous iron mountain. El Cerro del Mercado. This hill is one mile long, one third of a mile wide, and from 400 to 600 feet in height. It is composed of two varieties of iron-ores, magnetite and hematite (see p. YS), and is perhaps the largest and richest deposit of iron in the woi'ld. In 1881 a corporation known as the Iron Mountain Company was or- ganized under the laws of the State of New York, with a capital stock of $10,000,000, to work the ores of the Cerro del Mercado. This company expects to make Durango the seat of the largest iron-manufacturing industry in North America. A blast-furnace is in course of erection near the mountain, and fuel, fire-clay, and limestone are abundant in the vicinity. Referring to the future development of the Cerro del Mercado, Ward stated, in 1827, that there is no article in Mexico for which the demand is greater than for iron, and none whose supply from Europe ifj attended with so many disadvantages. The same writer predicts that " the advantages for manufacturing iron will be duly apparent when Durango becomes, as it will in a few years, the field of work ... of some great foreign or native company of capitalists, by whose labors the resources of the country will first be fully developed." Ward also prophesied that, if a foreign company should start in Durango, it would receive the warmest support, and that city might be rendered tbe depot of iron for Sombrerete, Zacatecas, Catorce, Batopilas, and all the districts south of Chihuahua. * SeSor Sada intends shifting his line from Zacatecas to Maiamoros, and thence to Saltillo, to connect with the Mexican National Railway (see p. 288). 2S0 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Route II. FROM ZACATECAS TO 1-L PASO, TEXAS. 1. Zacatecas to Lerdo. 2. Lerdo to Cliihualiua. 3. Chihuahua to El Paso. 1. From Zacatecas to Lerdo, 435-3 kilometres, or 270'3 miles. Leaving Zacatecas, which is 438*6 miles from the City of Mexico, the railway trends northwesterly with a down- ward grade over the broad plain through Fimienta, Calera (elevation, 7,051 feet, or 993 feet below Zacatecas), to Ojue- los and FresiiiUo* (35"8 miles, or 5T'G kilometres). North of Zacatecas the country along the line of the railway is chiefly a mining, not a farming, region. The road-bed lies in the State of Zacatecas as far as Camacho (142"9 miles). Just north of this station it enters Coahuila. The i)opulation of FresniUo is about 20,000, and the elevation 6,8G1*7 feet. This district was discovered in 1569. It contains rich silver-mines, the principal of Avhich are in the Cerro del Proano. Diligences run from FresniUo to Durango, 182 miles northwest. This town is the nearest station on the railway to Somhrerete, where much capital has lately been invested by Americans. The main line of the Mexican Central Railway was com- pleted near the station of FresniUo, ]\rarch 8, 1884. The 1,224 miles were built in about three years and six months, i. e., at the rate of more than one mile daily during the actual time employed. On the last day eight miles were laid. This is probably the best daily record in the history of railway construction. The Mexican Central was the first * The maximum grade from FresniUo to El Paso is but 87 feet (down- ward) to the mile. Humboldt has spoken of the levelness of the great table-land. ( Vide p. 28.) The surface is very even between the stations of Jiruulco and Tlorcasitas, 309 miles. There are no tunnels on the maia line. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 281 railroad to run from the north temperate zone into the trop- ics. The main line cost, in round numbers, 132,500,000. Leaving Fresmllo^ the line trends northeasterly to La Colorada (850-3 kilometres). The intermediate stations are Meiidoza, Gutierrez^ Cafiitas and Cedro. Then the track runs northward through Pacheco, Guzman and Gonzalez to Camaclio (936-2 kilometres, or 581-5 miles from Mexico). After passing San Isidoro, the train reaches Symon (in Coahuila, elevation, 5,146 feet), where a daily diligence connects with San Juan de Guadahqje, twelve and a half miles west. From Symon the road continues in Coahuila through La MancJia, Calvo, Feralfa, Jimulco and Jalisco. At Pi- cardias (1,094-4 kilometres, or 679-8 miles), the next sta- tion, the track enters Durango. From Picardias, diligences run as follows : To Durango (city), Chorro, Porjias^ Sauces, Santa Cakdina, San Diego, Tapias, Yerbanis and Cuencanie* The next station is Mieleras (elevation, 3,757-6 feet), where the railway again enters Coahuila. Then comes Torreon (1,136 kilometres, or 705-9 miles). There is a good restaurant at the station. Here connection is made with the Mexican International Eailroad, which goes to Ciudad Porfirio Diaz, on the Rio Grande, 383-11 miles distant; time, about 22 hours. (See p. 322.) This railway has been (1892) extended to the city of Durango, 157 miles south- west {vide p. 324). The next station is Lerdo, 515-2 miles from Juarez City and three miles from Torreon. A daily stage-coach con- nects the two towns. The population of Lerdo is about 10,000 and the elevation 3,726 feet. It is almost the lowest station on the main line. The town lies in the so-called " laguna country," a very fertile region, where much cotton, * CuencamS is the seat of large silver smelting works. 282 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRAVEL. grain and sugar-cane are grown. It is an emporium of tlie cotton-trade. The annual yield of this commodity is said to be 30,000 bales, all of which is consumed in the Repub- lic ; and there is reason to believe that the production of cotton in the " laguna country " will soon be greatly in- creased. Cotton and woolen mills have been erected here and many zarajies and rcbosos are manufactured. 2. From Lekdo to Chihuahua, 467-3 kilometres, or 290*5 miles. Leaving Lerdo, the track remains in Durango as-far as Saez (elevation, 3,900 feet). The intermediate stations are Noe, Mcqnnii, Peronal^ Conejos and Yermo. At Mapinii (elevation, 3,694 feet) diligences run to Mcqyimi City^ 15 miles; Tlahualilo, 19 miles; and Pefwles, 81 miles. Mines of gold, silver and lead occur near the station of Ma2)imi. The last-named town lies in the southern part of the Bolson de Mapimi, an arid, desolate plateau, with little vegetation except the " thorny weeds," such as the tmia cactus, the Spanish-bayonet and the mcsqiritc-tvee, the roots of which are much used for fuel. Patches of grass, on which a few cattle graze, are occasionally seen. In this entire region, extending on the line of railway from Jimenez southeasterly nearly 150 miles, there are, save the station just mentioned, no towns worthy of the name. Artificial tanks, to catch the rains and store water, are common. At Zavalza^ the next station to Saez, the road-bed enters Chihuahua and continues in this State to Jnarez Cifi/, 425-7 miles distant. From Zavalza to the city of Chiliua- hna the course of the line is northwesterly. The next stopping-place is Escalon, where connection is made with the Sierra Mojada silver-mining district (87*7 miles east) via the Mexican Northern Railway or CompaMa Ferrocarril Mexicano del Norte. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 283 The following is a list of stations, with the distanQes from E&caUn : Kilometres. Escalon O'O Im Gloria 41 '0 Carrillo 4'7'0 Guimbalcte 70"0 Kilometres. Rincon 104*0 El Puerto 120-0 Sierra Mojada 125"0 Since the completion of the Mexican Northern, the town of EscaUn has rapidly increased in population. It has now nearly 3,000 inhabitants. Leaving EscaUn, the track has an iTpward grade as far as Jimenez (elevation, 4,531 feet ; population, about 10,000), 853-1 miles from Mexico. There is a restaurant at the station. The road crosses the Rio Florida near Jimenez. The intervening stations are Rellano, Corralitos and Dolo- res. Stage-coaches run daily from Jimenez to Allende and Parral on the west. The mines of Parral (about 60 miles distant) are famous. It is said that they have yielded silver of the value of 170,000,000. Excepting Batopilas, these ore-deposits are perhaps the most important in CM- Tiualiua. From Jimenez the train runs down grade to Ortiz., where the soil is fertile. The intermediate stations are: La Reforma, Diaz, Bustamante, Santa Rosalia, La Cruz, Co?icho, Saucillo and Las Delicias. At Ortiz diligences are run daily to San Pahlo (two miles) and Santa Cruz (five miles). The town of Santa Rosalia (elevation, 4,023 feet) is noted for its hot springs, being regarded as one of the finest health-resorts in Mexico. Just south of Santa Rosalia the track crosses the Conclios River, a tributary of the Rio Grande. Leaving Ortiz, the road enters the valley of the San Pedro River, and, after passing the stations of Bacliimba, Horcasitas and Mapula, reaches Chihuahua (1,608-5 kilo- metres, or 999-4 miles). 20 284 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. CHIHUAHUA. Population, 20,000, of whom about 1,500 are foreigners; elevation, 4,690 feet. Hotels. — American, Hidalgo and Kaiionaf. Baths, on the upper Alameda. Telegraph and Post-Office, on the main plaza. Railway Station one mile from the city. Horse-Cars from the station to the plaza. Fare, a medio. Chihuahua (pronounced chee-war-toa?-), the capital of the State of the same name, lies on a broad plain at the base of the Sierra Madre, in north latitude 28° 35' 10". The city was settled toward the close of the seventeenth century by some adventurers for the purpose of working the rich silver-mines in the vicinity. It was originally called Taraumara, and afterward San Felipe el Real. The houses are built chiefly of adohe. In 1833 the population was 10,600, and in 1853 it was 12,000. Places of Interest. — 1. The Churches of La Parroquia (or Cathedral), Campania, Guadalupe and San Felipe Neri. 2. The College of the Jesuits, in the rear of which the great revolutionary leaders Hidalgo, Aldama, Jimenez and Allende were beheaded, July 31, 1811. 3. The Palace. 4. The Tribunal of Justice. 5. The Mint. 6. The Alhondiga, or granary. v. The Aqueduct (6,068 yards long). The Cathedral, or parochial church, stands on the plaza. It is built of cut stone of a very light color and has two towers and a dome. The exterior is very imposing. The church cost $800,000. It was erected from a fund raised by levying a tax of one real on every mark (eight dollars) of silver obtained from the mines of Santa Eulalia, fifteen miles distant. Fruit, vegetables and the cereals grow in the environs of the city. There is fine grazing-land in Chihuahua. The climate is salubrious, the temperature ranging from 16° to 94° Fahr. May, June and July are the warmest months, but the nights are always cool and pleasant during Cathedral uf ChihuaJtna. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 285 this season. The rains begin about the 25 th of June, and last till the middle of October. Stage-coaches run from CMhualiua to Jiosario, Gtier- rero^ Carachic and Cusihuiriachic. 3. From Ghihuahua to El Paso, 363-2 kilometres, or 225-6 miles. From Chilmahua the line runs almost due north to Juarez City, on the Rio Grande. The freight carried on this railway consists of lumber, coal, machinery and general mercliandise. Much bullion is transported by Wells, Fargo & Company's express. The country between Juarez City and Chihuahua is well adapted to grazing. There are sev- eral large mining districts on either side of the line of the railroad, at distances varying from ten to a hundred miles. The mines are chiefly of silver, although there is an ex- tensive deposit of iron-ore near Ojo Caliente. Leaving Chihuahua, the train passes Sacramento, Ter- razas, Sauz (elevation, 5,168 feet), E7icinillas, Agua Nueva, Laguna, Puerto, and arrives at Gallego (1,746-1 kilometres, or 1,084*8 miles ; elevation, 5,360 feet). Here diligences run to Valle de Santa Buenaventura, Galleana, Corralitos, As- cension and Casas Grandes. The ruins of Casas Grandes lie about half a mile from the modern town of the same name. They are built of adohe, and are called the " Casas de Montezuma.''^ They face the cardinal points, and consist of fallen and erect walls. The latter are from five to thirty feet in height. The edifices resemble the Pueblo dwellings of Arizona and New Mexico. The original buildings are supposed to have had three stories and a roof, with stairs outside, probably of wood. Fragments of pottery have been found in them. The old presidio, or military post of Janos, is 35 miles north of Casas Grandes, in the extreme western part of the State. From Gallego the grade of the road-bed is downward as 286 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. far as San Jose (elevation, 3,950 feet). The intervening stations are Chivatito, Moctezuma, Las Minas, Ojo Calienie and Carmen. A bi-weekly stage-coach runs from Ojo Culiente (eleva- tion, 4,090 feet) to San Lorenzo. The train then stops at Rancheria^ Candelaria, Los Me- danos, Sanialayuca (elevation, 4,300 feet), Tierra Blanca, Mesa and Juarez City. The last station is the terminus of the Mexican Central Railway, although tlie company's trains cross the river to El Paso. Juarez City, formerly called Paso del Norte., has great historical interest, for it was here that the constitutional government of Juarez was maintained. It was also the seat of government of the Republic during the French in- vasion. The population of Juarez City is about 7,000, and the altitude 3, GOO feet. The railway company has built an iron bridge over the Rio Grande.* There is a small pile trestle-bridge, owned by the horse-car company, which is also used by wagons and pedestrians. Tourists going to or from California generally make a brief visit to Juarez City while the train stops at El Paso. The Mexican Central Railway Company now owns two telegraph-wires along the whole main line. EL PASO, TEXAS. Population, 5,000 ; elevation, 3,600 feet. Hotels. — Central, Windsor, and Fierson House. El Paso is a great railway center and is destined to gi'ow rapidly within a brief period. Real-estate is increasing in value, and the rents for all classes of buildings are said to be enormous. There is a union depot occupied by the Southern Pacific and the Texas Pacific Railways. The Atchison, Topelca and Santa Fe Railroad Comjmny has also * The width of the Rio Grande varies from 300 to 600 feet in the vicinity of El Paso. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 287 a station. The last-named line makes connection with the Mexican Central Eailway, and it is the most desirable route from the eastern and central cities of the United States to Mexico in the summer season, which is the time when most travelers will approach Mexico by land. On June 1, 1892, the total completed " mileage " of the Mexican Central Eailway Company was 1,859 miles. Church and Pktza^ El Paso. 288 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 3- - - - ■; a o a 3 a 3 C5 fa 3 o5 o sj ^ i i~U5-nt-i-C'105U5O00(MS<<-OiOr-ltiC>OiC>C>CiOiO>aiC'*«DtO-coaio^H'Mco»o--oir-coc^'C^H i-ll-ll-.r-lrH,-(i-l,-lr-l3'10^ 'S 55 S 5 V 3 IJ --S a -—•^ a> 2S- ;"^ N ■ OJ X o a a'- a ^^.2 g d 5, ■£ § =^.S n" 2 ?• " -• t£ " ^ " 2 =4 a 3 . . .5 5J :1 1^ S-a Q = -= iH «»a-a"^ocE.c}^oss THE MEXICAN' CENTRAL RAILWAY. 288«f ; -^ ci" - O" WSW S H Ol^COr-HT-lOOi— 'OrHTjHT— l05J:-l0 1^'rHO00C000O-^»0-^l0r-'i0rHC0i— ICM?c4^ OOOOOOOOOOOOOr-Hi— It— II— § 5 g g o c?^ r'cs !h oi g'-' o.g „_c go 1(3 p^^r^.g O =3 III o 3 o I (M CO ■* lO 'X! Jr- 00 C2 O Ji ■ 05 S ! a) cj 3 ^3'-; c "J 2 S g,3 M 'r: Q N iJ a'- 3 o "7:5 3 2 Si3 gSM-l g § Eij c-3 ^-S S'= i 3 3 » Sba-^ §0 O H 05 02 M Oh i-:i ^ <1 Ah W c» a >-; hJ 1-1 2-1 ps< 1-^ 3 O .3 c3 -52 IS. 28SJ CITIES AND ROUTES OF TEA VEL. o o o _^^ C .5 Tt 10 10 to 1-1 ^ O ^ rt O -H o O >-• C C^' •-< O O O (M «0 CO 1—1 0-*o^«ocoeot- Wed., and Fri. . Wed, and Sat., ly and Tliursday. rt S O : -g i riff's r^. -S OgOOOrt" S H S S ?30 CAJ (;>5 -so s- ;- O cj 'C c '-' .2 r= (U O i bJD *^ '^ "S -* e '"' -* • • a • • e3 ; d ■3 • (^ > ' "d « - B C« U C * * * * * * Ph W i-s THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 289 o « o o lO O U3 Xr- (M (M C O lP O O ,-1 OH>. " tl lo la 03 0-l 2o>nioioioioioiOcge8^ 101010 S 10 10 10 Iffl (M C^ CTJ 0!M(N(MJOO(MOO(M l-^(^q rHOOco0 £- 01 10 t- tJ< CO H^ •« >;, w5^ = - -s- c- H^ M O "O O ■3 O .2 o S a =s ? 5P?s a -2 :o £! 5 cs C^r-f .—« t; Oi tri § a 3^ f=^ "o fl b o rt -3 C---3 - "^ 2 S-d -2 aj oi . cr • .2 en "S ^ s .■33 tn g « O'rc SECTION VI. The Monterey and Mexican Gulf Railroad. Scene in Koy'tliefn Mexico. This line was fin- ished in 1891. It be- gins at General Trevino in Coahuila, a station on the line of the Mexican Inter- national Railroad, Here the elevation is 2,920 feet. We shall give a short itinerary of the route, Avith a list of sta- tions added. Leaving General Trevino., the track runs almost due easterly to Monterey (66 miles). The only important sta- tion on this division is Garcia (46 miles). Garden vegeta- bles of all kinds are raised here, and the pomegranate is also cultivated. MONTEREY AND MEXICAN GULF RAILROAD. 291 FROM MONTEREY TO TAMPICO. (For description of Monterey, see pp. 248, 249.) The railway station at Monterey is one of the most or- namental buildings of the kind in the Eepublic. The line runs southeastward from Monterey through Cad,ereyta (population, 12,000) to San Juan (33 miles), which is situated on a river of the same name. Here a dancing pavilion has been erected by the railway company, which has also placed rowboats upon the river. During fine weather excursion trains are run from both directions every Sunday. There are two brick-yards at San Juan. A branch road is projected to the town of Camargo, on the Rio Grande, about 65 miles northeast. Leaving San Juan, the track goes southward to Linares (91 miles). The chief intermediate station is Montemorelos (population, 10,000). Fine oranges grow here. Many are sent to the United States, especially to Kansas City and St. Louis. There is a tannery at Montemorelos. Linares is a quaint town of about 8,000 inhabitants. It lies in a sugar-growing district, and is also tributary to the mines of San Nicolas, San Carlos, and San Jose. It is almost the middle station of the Mexican Eastern Eailway, formerly called the Matamoros, Linares and Matehuala Railroad, which is in course of construction (see p. 320). The Monterey and Mexican Gulf Eailroad Company in- tends to build a line from Linares to Soto la Marina, about 120 miles southeast. (See p. 321.) Proceeding southward, the next important station is Victoria (Hotel Hidalgo), which is the capital of the State of TamaulijMS, and has a population of about 10,000. Vic- toria is situated on the border of the tierra temjjlada, in a fertile region, where sugar-cane, wheat, Indian corn, ixtle, and many kinds of fruit are grown. This town has a beau- tiful 2^aseo about a mile and a half loug and lined on either 292 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. side witli stately trees Avhose branches meet overhead. The promenade leads to a circular garden, in which a band-stand has been erected. From Victoria the road runs southeasterly to Ta^npico, the terminus, which is 321 miles from Monterey and 387 miles from the station of General Treviiio. (For descrip- tion of Tampico^ see pp. 13, 157 and 241.) Tampico was formerly the chief port of entry on the Gulf of Mexico. Uj)on the completion of the railway from the capital to the city of Vera Cruz the foreign trade was transferred to the latter place. Now that two lines of rail- way enter Tampico this town may become the rival of Vera Cruz. Moreover, the Mexican Government, realizing the natural advantages of Tampico, has given 13,500,000 for the improvement of the harbor. The depth of water at high tide on the bar has been increased from 8 feet to 22 feet. Vessels drawing 18 feet of water come to the wharves of the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Eailroad Company, where their cargoes are transferred to the trains. The lands of this company extend along the Pdnuco River for two miles. Here the tide rises but 18 inches. In 1892 the population of Tamjnco was 10,000. The steamers of the New York and Cuba Mail Steam- ship Company, the Harrison Line, the West India and Pa- cific, the French Commercial Line, the Hamburg- American Packet Company, the Spanish Line, the New York, Mobile and Mexican Steamship Company, and smaller coasting- vessels, touch at Tampico regularly, thereby enabling pas- sengers to avail themselves of the choice of entering the Eepublic by rail and leaving by water, or vice versa. This railway is in course of construction from General Trevino westward across the Eej)ublic to the Pacific coast. It will traverse the San Marcos and Sierra Mojada mining districts, and the Bolson de Mapimi to Jimenez, on the Mexican Central Railway (see p. 282). The projected route MONTEREY AND MEXICAN OULF RAILROAD. 293 then crosses the Sierra Madre and goes southwesterly to Culiacan. At Culiacan this line will connect with the Sinaloa and Durango Railroad. (See p. 325). This road will be extended southward to the port of Mazatkm, in the State of Sinaloa. Complete List of Stations, with the distances, from General TreviSo to Tampico. FIRST DIVISION. General Trevifio Las Norias 10 Amargos 23 Paredon 31 Icamole 55 Tank, Kilo No. 64 64 Garcia 74 Pesqueria 85 Siding 95 Monterey 106 SECOND DIVISION. Monterey San Miguel Juarez Cadereyta San Juan Vaqueros Teran Montemorelos (supper). Jose Maria Paras Huertas Loma Alta Linares Maquiras Distances in Kilos. Miles. 106 119 130-6 142 160 180 189 202-5 214-7 227-5 238-7 253 272 14 19 35 40 46 53 59 66 66 74 81 88 99 112 117 126 133 141 148 157 169 Distances in Kilos. Miles. Summit Siding 286-5 179 Santa Rosalia 298 186 Villagran 303-5 189 Carrizos 315 196 Tinajo 335 208 La Cruz 347-6 216 Santa Engracia 358-6 223 El Russio 362-6 225 Caballeros 377 232 Victoria 390 242 THIRD DIVISION. Victoria (dinner) 390 242 Santa Rosa 406 252 Lavin 425 264 San Francisco 441 273 Forlon 458 284 La Panocha 478 296 Pretil 492 308 Rosillo 507 316 General Gonzales 527 330 Chocoy 554 346 Los Esteros 573 356 Alta Mira 598 371 Tampico 623 387 The complete route of the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Eailroad across the EejDublic will be about 1,550 miles long, or a little less than half the liength of the shortest trans- continental line in the United States. (For reference to Mazatlan, see pp. 315, 31G.) This chapter will be rewritten when this railway is finished. SECTION VII. The Mexican Southern Railroad (Ferrocarril Mexicano del Sur). (See chapter on railroads.) The original concession for building the Mexican South- ern Eailroad was granted May 26, 1881. The line was to run from New Laredo on the Rio Grande to the City of ]\Iexico, a distance of 680 miles. This route has been abandoned. The new charter was granted April 21, 1886, and the present (narrow-gauge) road begins at the city of Puebla and goes to the city of Oaxaca. (For description of Puebla, see pp. 171, 172.) Leaving Puebla, the track runs southeasterly through a fertile region to Tehuacan (127-3 kilometres; population in 1892, 20,000). The hotels are the Benito Juarez, Espaiiol and Del Ferrocarril. A tramway goes to JEsperama, on the Mexican (English) Railway, 50 kilometres north. (See pp. 167-160.) Tehuacan is the only large town between Puebla and Oaxaca. The road goes southerly, with a downward grade from Tehuacan to the city of Oaxaca (366'6 kilometres). The station of Tecomavaca is 3,510 feet below Tehuacan. The maximum grade is 1 J per cent, excepting a piece of road about 650 feet long, where it is 1'90 per cent. List of stations from Ppebla to Oaxaca, 366'6 kilometres, or 220 miles. Kilometres. Puebla Amozoc 18"4 Santa Rosa 26-0 Tepeaca 37-2 Rosendo Miirquez . . . 54'6 Tecamachalco 65' 1 Las Animas 77'7 Kilometres. Tlacotepec 87-1 Carnero 1184 Tehuacan 1273 La Huerta 1420 Santa Cruz 148-3 Pantzingo 1592 Nopala 173-8 THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 295 Kilometres. VentaSalada 180-2 Sail Antonio 195'4 Mexia 204-1 Tecomavaca .-. . 2 24 '4 Quiotepcc 235-3 Cuicatlan 252-3 TomelKn (meals) 257-1 Kilometres. Almoloyas 2*76-3 Santa Catarina 292-8 El Parian 309-0 Las Sedas 322-7 Huitzo 335-5 Etla 348-6 Oaxaca 3666 A branch Hue is projected from Anton Lizardo, on the Gulf of Mexico, via Tuxtepec. It will Join the main line near Quiotepec. This eastern division of the railway may be extended to the city of Vera Oruz, 20 miles distant. The Mexican Southern Kailroad connects with the Intor- oceanic and Mexican National Eailways, thus forming a complete narrow-gauge system throughout the length and breadth of the Republic. OAXACA. Population, 30,000 ; elevation, 5,072 feet. IIoTELS. — Nacional, Seffarra, Del Comercio, The city is the capital of the State of the same name, and it has recently received the surname of the illustrious Juarez. Senor Busto, the well-known statistician, calls it Oaxaca de Juarez. The word Oaxaca was formerly spelled Guaxaca, being derived from the Mexican name of the city and valley of Huaxyacac in the Zapotec country. After the Conquest, Cortes received the title of Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca., and some of his descendants are still living in this State. The ruined palaces of Mitla lie about 25 miles east of Oaxaca. These ruins, except the te'ocaUis, are the most ac- cessible in Mexico. (See Chapter V in Part First.) Leaving the city of Oaxaca, the railway will run south- ward Avith a descending grade to Ocotlan, Ejiitla, and 3Iia- liuatlan. The latter town is about 65 miles distant from Puerto Angel., the principal jiort of the State. From Mialiuatlan the road takes an easterly course over 296 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. a rugged country to the town of Tehuantepec (523 miles), which is only ten miles from La Ventosa, on the coast. The Pacific Mail steamers stop, at the adjoining port of ■Salina Cruz. This place has a good harbor, and will be- come the terminus of the projected railway across the isth- mus. The Mexican Southern Railroad will make connec- tion with the Tehuantepec Railroad at the station of that name. The former road will be extended eastward from the town of Tehuantepec (population, 12,000) to Tonald on the coast. (See Section IX.) Tonald lies in the State of Cliiapas, and the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamshij) Company call at this port once a month, the distances to San Francisco and Patiama being 2,204 miles and 1,223 miles, respectively. Leaving Tonald, the main line bifurcates. One branch runs northeasterly to San Cristobal, and the other extends to Tapacliula,* and thence will probably be continued to the city of Guatemala. The region traversed by the southern division of the main line of this railway lies mostly in the States of Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, and Cliiapas. It is very rich in mineral deposits and in agricultural products. The climate is salubrious, and the vegetation is luxuriant along the greater part of the route. The State of Oaxaca contains valuable mines of gold, silver, iron, copper, and mercury. The cereals, brown beans, and tobacco, are grown in abundance. This State is also noted for yielding a large supply of cochineal. Petroleum is found near Puerto Angel. The States of Vera Cruz and Chiapas are rich in coffee, sugar-cane, co- coa, tobacco, indigo, vanilla, and India-rubber. We may add that the former State ranks foremost in Mexico in the production of coffee and tobacco, and second in that of sugar. * Senor M. Romero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, has resided for many years at Tapacliula. THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 297 Several very wealthy and influential capitalists are stock- holders in the Mexican Southern Eailroad Company. It is now believed that the main line will be completed at an early day. Senor Matias Eomero, in an article on Rail- ways in Mexico, published in the International Review for November, 1882, states that the inhabitants of Oaxaca are very anxious to have this road finished as soon as pos- sible ; and that the merchants threaten to withdraw their capital from the State if the construction of the railway is delayed much longer. 21 SECTION VIII. The Morelos Railway (Ferrocarril de Morelos). (See chapter on railroads. ) This line has two divisions — one goes to Texcoco and Irolo, and the other to Cuautla. Both are the same as far as Los Reyes, 17 kilometres from the capital. 1. From Mexico to Cuautla ; distance, 138 kilometres, or 85|- miles ; time, nine hours. Two passenger-trains daily. Fares, first class, §2.Y0 ; sec- ond class, $1.38. Leaving the station of San Lazaro, the track goes east- erly past the Lake of Texcoco to Los Reyes. The old stage- road lies near the railroad, and runs parallel with it for several miles. The railway now forks, the northeastern branch being built to Texcoco (42 kilometres), and thence toward Irolo. Texcoco is famous in the history of old Mexico, or Ana- huac. {Restcmrante Universo.) It was the chief city next to Tenoclititlan. Many of the ancient kings lived here, and since the Conquest it has become an important place for the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods. The ruins of three teocallis are still visible. But to give a com- plete history of Texcoco, with its relations to the Aztecs, Toltecs, and their predecessors, would require a volume, so we will not dwell upon it here. This branch extends to Irolo, in the midst of a maguey region, and is to some de- gree an O2ipositio7i line to the Mexican Railway in the trans- portation of j^ulque to the capital. It is worthy of remark THE MO RE LOS RAILWAY. 299 that trains of a dozen cars on the former road are often loaded with pulque in barrels between the stations of Irolo and Mexico, a distance of 77 kilometres. (See p. 293.) From Los Reyes the train runs eastward to Ayotla (25 kilometres). It then turns to the south, and skirts the Lake of Clialco, passing the stations of La Campania (35 kilometres), Tenango (47 kilometres), and, after ascending a heavy grade, reaches Amecameca (58 kilometres). AMECAMECA. Population, 10,000 ; elevation, 8,223 feet. Hotel. — At the railway-station, and meson, on \he plaza. Places of Interest. — 1. The volcano of Popocatepetl. 2. The Sacro- monte. No tourist visits Amecameca for any other purpose than to ascend the great volcano. It is the culminating point * of North America, being 17,720 feet above the sea-level. The trip to the summit and back requires two days ; but, if the traveler wishes to ride and walk rapidly, and possesses ex- traordinary physical powers, a day and a half will be suffi- cient. He may leave the capital in the morning, and arrive at the ranch of Tlamacas, on the ridge-line between Popo- catepetl and Iztacciliuatl, the same evening. The next day the great volcano may be ascended. The traveler can re- turn to Amecameca in the evening, but not in time to take the afternoon train, unless he makes fast time on foot and on horseback. Before setting out, it will be advisable to obtain per- mission to sleep at the cabin of Tlamacas from the owner. General Sanchez Ochoa, who now (1883) resides in the Hotel Iturhide, at the capital. If the tourist fail to see General Ochoa, he can sleep either in the open air or in a dilapidated building at the ranch. The house which is generally used * The original measurement of Mount Saint Elias — i. e., 19,000 feet — has been found to be incorrect. 300 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. - is a framed structure, with a loose board floor, and is not provided with beds nor mattresses. There are, however, earthenware pots, a few plates, and glasses — all of which are, of course, convenient even for a single night. On arrival at Amecameca, the traveler should lose no time in engaging horses and guides, and he must also pro- vide himself with blankets, provisions, and an alpenstock. Senor Francisco Noriega, who keeps a large store on the north side of the plaza, will assist the stranger in procuring the wherewithal for the trip. An extra servant, or mozo, should accompany the party, to take charge of the horses during the ascent of the volcano. One guide to each trav- eler will be necessary, and it is nnadvisable for a party of three or four persons to climb the peak with a single one. The cost of each guide will be five dollars, and of a mozo three dollars. Horses can be hired for a dollar a day. Having made the necessary preparations, the tourist will take the road leading out of the southeastern corner of the town, and travel nearly due east toward the Sierra. Fine wheat-fields are passed on the way, and the soil is well watered by the melting snow of the great volcano. The path soon rises, and enters a magnificent forest — a rare feature in the scenery of the table-land — where lofty pines, spruces, and firs abound. Proceeding farther, the trail from Puehla soon joins the main path from Amecameca. "We now reach a growth of thick grass, and, after crossing the crest-line of the ridge and descending the eastern slope for about three hundred yards, the ranch of Tlamacas lies before us. The distance from Amecameca is about twelve miles. In starting out for the summit of Popocatepetl, the tourist is advised to leave the cabin by 4 a. m., if possible. A horse may be ridden to the edge of the snow-line, about half a mile distant. The ankles should be protected with stout gaiters or pieces of flannel, and the boots should be THE MORELOS RAILWAY. 301 well greased, with a view to keeping the feet as dry as pos- sible. The guides will generally attend to the needs of the tourist, and will carry an extra wrap or cloak, together with wine and provisions, on their backs. The lower part of the peak of the volcano has a slope of about twenty degrees, while the angle increases in ascend- ing until it reaches about forty-five degrees just below the summit. Travelers should keep their alpenstocks on the upper side of the incline while ascending the peak ; and, in case of a slip, the weight of the body must be immediately thrown on the al|)enstock. Tourists are not tied together by a rope, as in Switzerland. The air is so rarefied that one is compelled to walk very slowly. During the latter part of the ascent it is difficult to make more than two hundred yards in an hour. In general, six hours will be required to reach the top of the peak from Tlamacas. The upper part of it is covered with ice, and is practically a glacier, having a very uneven surface. The crater is not visible until one arrives at the edge. A rough estimate of its dimensions would give the diameter at 500 yards, and the depth at 150 yards. There are sev- eral fnmaroles in the crater from which sulphurous-acid gas is emitted, and a small pond is to be found at the bot- tom. According to the author's thermometer, the tempera- ture of the air on the summit, at ten o'clock a. m., was 32° Fahr. Clouds usually envelop the peak of Popocatepetl after ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the tourist should en- deavor to reach the summit by that hour. We have not space to describe the view, which is so ex- tensive that a region of about 100,000 square miles in area is visible. Suffice it to say that the Gulf of Mexico (150 miles distant) may be seen on a clear day. On account of the highly rarefied atmosphere, not longer than one hour should be pa?sed on the summit. 302 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The descent may be made in one hour and a half. If the snow be tolerably soft, the tourist can sit on a petate, or piece of matting, with the guide, and slide down the slope. A rope is attached to the front part of the petate, which is held by the se^or, and the guide, who is seated behind, steers with his alj^enstock. The operation is simi' lar to coasting. Should the stranger fail to ascend the mountain the first time, he can spend two nights at the ranch of Tlama- cas, and make a second attempt on the following day. The Acajjulco. sooner the lungs become accufiton;ed to the atmosphere at this great elevation the easier it will be to climb the peak. It is hardly necessary to add that the ascent of Popocatepetl is well worth the trouble and expense which it involves. A visit to the Sacromonte, one of the most famous shrines in Mexico, will be found interesting. This mount- ain lies on the western side of the town of Amecameca, and THE MORELOS RAILWAY. 303 rises about 300 feet above the plain. A paved pathway leads to a chapel on the summit. There are fourteen " sta- tions," each having a cross and inscription in Spanish, along this path. Many ex votos are seen at the door of the chapel. Some of them are in the form of oil-paintings, while others consist of silver arms and legs, whicn are hung in a glass case. An image of Nuestro Semr de Bacromonte is placed on the high altar. The saint wears a gold-embroidered cloak of velvet. Ribbons of various colors, giving the size of the head of Our Lord of the Sacred Mountain, are sold at the entrance and also at the foot of the pathway. The hill is covered with a dense growth of cedars. Leaving Amedameca, the railway runs almost due south past the stations of Ozumha (70 kilometres), Nepantla (95 kilometres), Yecapixtla (111 kilometres), and reaches Cu- autla (138 kilometres). The chief object of interest on the road is the bridge at Ozumba, which is 618 feet long and 41 feet high. Cuaiitla, the principal city of the State of Morelos, has a population of about 14,000. The name is derived from QuauMli — i. e., delightful hills — a term given to the town by its founders, the TlaUuicos. It was conquered by the Spaniards in 1521, and was c.c'ated a city in 1829. The objects of interest are the parochial church. City Hall, and Alcmieda. 2. From Cpautla to Acapclco, about 200 miles. The railway will be extended from Cuautla to Cuerna- vaca, and thence to Acapuico via Chilpancingo. Cuerna- vaca is described in Section III. From a point about 25 miles south of this town, the line will run entirely within Guerrero, a »State that j)ossesses immense mineral wealth, which IS almost totally undeveloped. All tropical fruits, and corn, beans, peas, cotton, and sugar-cane, are grown in this State. There is also a great variety of timber in Guerrero. 304 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRA VEL. The region lying along the proposed line of railroad does not possess many places of interest to the traveler. Chil- pancingo^ the capital of the State, is celebrated in history as the town where the first Mexican Congress assembled, on September 13, 1813, after the cry for independence had been raised by Hidalgo, This town has a population of 4,000 inhabitants. (For description of Acapulco, see Sec- tion IV, p. 236.) The name of the Morelos (narrow-gauge) line has been changed to that of the Interoceanic Kailway, or Ferrocarril Liter ocecmico Acapulco a Vera Cruz, Liiiiited. The east- ern division to Jalapa and Vera Cruz was completed in May, 1891. The line from Mexico to Cuautla has been extended to Jojiitla. The road from Puchla to Matamoros (53 miles) has been open for both passengers and freight since April, 1890. The earth-work and bridges are now (June, 1891) finished for eleven miles more. This branch will go to Acapulco via Chitla, Chiantlas, Chilpancingo, Acahutzotla and Efjida. From Puehla to Acapulco the distance will be 487 kilo- metres, and from Puehla to Vera Cruz 338 kilometres. Hence the total length of the Interoceanic route wall be 825 kilometres, or 515 miles. It is expected that the line to Acapulco will be built on or before January 1, 1894. When the railroad is completed this chapter will be re- written. (See slip facing this page for the most recent list of stations, with the distances from Mexico and from Puehla.) TEE INTEROCEANIG RAILWAY. 304«^ Interoceanic Railway.— Table of Distances. MEXICO TO VERA CRUZ. Stations. Kilometres. Mexico {San Ldzaro) Los Reyes 17'495 ban Vicente 26-848 Texcoco 38-800 Escudero 49-835 Metepec BMYO Oiumba 69509 Soapayuca 74-2S3 Irolo S9-850 San Lorenzo 99-498 Calpulalpam 108-800 Mazapa 118064 Nanac-amilpa . 132-0*75 Laffunilla 147-598 Atotoniico 150-334 San Martin 169-055 Analco 184-286 Los A r cos 199-872 Fuebla 207-791 Amozoc 227-182 Acajete 238-526 La Vcnta 248-888 Stations. Kilometres. Ban Marcos 262-897 Ojo de Affua 274-200 Virreyes 291-264 Tepeyahualco 308-305 Ferote 337-772 Lccs Vigas 358-599 Cruz- Verde 375-168 San Miguel 390-038 Bandertlla 404-265 Jalapa 414-775 Pacho 423-388 Chavarrillo 488-000 El Palmar 453-608 Colorado 463-884 Rinconada 479-696 San Francisco 501-840 La Antigua 511-160 Santa Fe 526-360 Vera Cruz, Freight Station. 545-453 Passenger Station .. . 546-295 MHiarf. 546-602 MEXICO TO JOJUTLA. Stations. Kilometres. Mexico Los Reyes 17-495 Ayotla 24-500 La Compania 34-000 Tenango 46-750 Amecameca 57-250 Ozumha 69-500 Sepantla 92-500 Stations. Kilometres. Yccapixtla 119-300 Cuautla 136-000 Calderon 144-000 Yautepec 158-100 Timman 176-100 Tlaltizapam 185-100 Tlalquitenango 193 100 Jojutla 195-500 PUEBLA TO MATAMOROS. Stations. Kilometres. Puehla Los Arcos 7-979 Cholula 12-919 Santa Maria 21-819 San Agusiin 39-919 Stations. Kilometres. AtUxco 45-769 San Jose 64-919 Tatetla 73-769 Matamoros 84-019 SECTION IX. The Tehuantepec Eailroad. (Compare with chapter on railroads.) During the last fifty years plans for establishing a com- munication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans via the Isthmus of Tehuantepec have been discussed. The Mexican Government in 1841 granted a concession to Don Jose de Garay to make a connection between the two oceans, provided that the grantee should make a survey, at his own expense, of the ground and the direction which the route should follow, and also of the ports which might be deemed most convenient from their proximity. A survey was duly made, and reports were published. But the route was not necessarily to be a canal, although Senor Moro, the engineer, based his operations upon this assumption. Soon after the termination of the war with the United States, the franchise of Senor de Garay became the j)roperty of Mr. P. A. Hargous, of New York, who, in connection with a company organized in New Orleans, assumed the rights and responsibilities of tlie Garay grant. After negotiations with the Mexican Government and unavoidable delays, it was agreed that a railroad would be more practicable than a canal. Accordingly, a survey for a railway across the isthmus was made in 1851, under the direction of the Lite General J. G. Barnard, of the United States Army, wlio was detailed for that purpose. The surveys demonstrated tliat a railway would be feasible at a moderate expense ; tiiat the grades did not exceed 60 feet per mile, except at 306 CITIES AND RODTES OF TRAVEL. the CMvela Pass, where they were IIG feet per mile for the distance of eight miles ; and that the summit was 720 feet above the sea-level. In 1857 the railroad project was resumed, and a new survey was executed under the direction of Colonel W. H. Sidell, of the United States Army. Owing to various reasons, this line was never constructed. In 1870 the Tehuantepec Raihvay Company was formed in !New York. Mr. Simon Stevens became its president, with the late Hon. Marshall 0, Roberts as promoter. New surveys and explorations were made, but the road was not built under this administration. Upon a reorganization of the company after unavoidable delays, and with a change of president, and under a charter from the State of Massa- chusetts, a modified concession was obtained from the Mex- ican Government on June 2, 1879, to build the Telman- tepec Eailroad. A subsidy of 17,500 per kilometre was included in the concession. The track was not to exceed 300 kilometres (186 miles) in length. The Tehuantepec Eailroad was not finished by the above- mentioned company. It is said that not more than forty kilometres were constructed by this foreign corporation. In 1882 the Mexican Government made a contract with private individuals for the completion of the Tehuantepec line ; and in January, 1884, the track was finished from the mouth of the Goatzacoalcos * River to JaJtipam, a distance of 25 miles. The route of the projected railway is about 190 miles in length. The work of construction from Minatitlan to the port of Salina Cruz is now be- ing pushed vigorously by the Government. It is believed that the road will be finished and opened for traffic in 1894. The line runs due north and south, and it will traverse the southern portions of the States of Vera Cruz and Oa- * Also spelled Coatzacoalcos. THE TEHUANTEPEG RAILROAD. 307 xaca. The adjacent country may be concisely described as follows : The depth of water at low tide is thirteen feet on the bar at the mouth of the Goatzacoalcos Eiver, which is navi- gable for a distance of 30 miles. Placer gold-deposits are said to exist in the interior of the isthmus, although the country has not yet been geologically explored. Large beds of asphalt also occur. The vegetable productions of this region are indigo, tobacco, sugar-cane, cocoa, cotton, coffee, Indian corn, vanilla, sarsaparilla, ginger, and India-rubber. The terminus of the road, wiir be at Salina Cruz, three miles west of La Venfosa, on the Pacific coast, which is considered a safe harbor. It is said that work on the south- ern section of this railway has begun. Winter is the best season for visiting the isthmus, as the summers are very hot and a great variety of insects abound. Some of them are poisonous, and the tourist should exercise extreme cau- tion to avoid being bitten while traveling through the jungle or in camping out. Humboldt, in his Political Essay on JVetv Spain, has referred to the possibility of making the Isthmus of Telman- tepec an avenue of travel at some future day. He gives the width of the isthmus at 118 miles. The connections of the Teliuantepec Railroad with the Mexican Southern Railroad are mentioned in Section VII. Captain J. B. Eads has recently visited England, to procure capital to build the Teliuantepec Ship-Railway. The advantages to commerce of a means of communication across the isthmus (either by land or water) can hardly be overestimated. This route lies between latitude 16° and 18°, and, unlike the malarious climate of Pa- nama, the region is comparatively healthy all the year round. While the commerce between Europe and the Pacific Ocean will be carried on via the Isthmus of Panama for many years, the greater part of the trade between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of the United States must needs be con- ducted across the Isthmus of Tehuantcpec as soon as the railway is finished. It is hardly necessary to say that the latter route will soon become a 308 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. very formidable competitor to the Panama Railway as regards passenger traffic. The distance from New York to San Francisco via 2\huantepcc is 1,477 miles shorter than via Panama, and that from New Orleans to San Francisco is 2,334 miles less by the former than by the latter route. *i''-^^^Af(» A Scene on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. SECTIO]^ X. The Sonora Railway. From Benson to Gcatmas. Distance, 353 miles ; time, 19 hours; fare, $21. As already stated, the Sonora Railway connects with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe and Southern Pacific Eailroads. (For a full description of these routes, see Ap2jlet07is^ General Guide to the United States.) Elevation of Benson, 3,5*78 feet; distance from San Francisco, 1,024 miles. Leaving Benson, the line takes a southwesterly direction through the lower part of Arizona to Nogales on the Mexi- can frontier, 88 miles distant. The train stops thirty min- utes here. The line between the points Just mentioned is called the Neto Mexico and Arizona Railroad, the stations along the route being : Canisteo, 7 miles ; Contention, 15 miles ; Fairhanhs, 18 miles ; Broohline, 23 miles ; Hua- chuca, 29 miles ; Elgin, 40 miles ; Sonoita, 49 miles ; Crit- tenden, 58 miles ; Sanfordh, 68 miles ; Calainsas, 77 miles ; and Nogales, 88 miles. The road from Nogales to Guaymas is the Sonora Bail- luay proper. It was completed on November 25, 1882. The stations from Nogales southward are : Encina, 94 miles ; Agua Zarca, 100 miles ; Cibuta, 109 miles ; Casita, 115 miles ; Imuris, 130 miles (fifteen minutes' stop) ; Piersons, 135 miles ; San Ignacio, 137 miles ; Magdalena, 142 miles, Santa Ana, 153 miles ; Llano, IGO miles ; Puerto, 183 310 CITIES AXD ROUTES OF TRA VEL. miles ; QucrobaU, 189 miles ; Posa, 205 miles ; Carho, 217 miles ; Pesqueira, 239 miles ; Zamora, 247 miles ; Junc- tion, 260 miles ; Hermosillo, 2G3 miles (thirty minutes' stop) ; Willard, 274 miles ; Torres, 289 miles ; Moreno, 307 miles ; Ortiz, 323 miles ; Sa?ita Rosa, 333 miles ; May- torena, 338 miles ; Batamotal, 345 miles ; Lo7ig Bridge, 348 miles ; Batuecas, 350 miles ; Guaymas, 353 miles. Fionteras, Sonora. This road extends through a- fine cereal and grazing country. Oranges, pears, melons, and other fruits grow at Hermosillo and to the southward. This town has 7,000 inhabitants. It contains a good hotel, the Cosmopolitan. Hermosillo lies in a valley about ten miles long and four miles wide. It is at the base of the Sierra de la Campana, 312 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL, a rugged mountain of limestone. 3Iaydalena has a populji- tion of 3,000. A wagon-road leads thence to the town of Ures. Another line of railroad will soon be constructed Arispe. from Hermosillo via Ures, Arispe, Bachnachi, and Espia to Paso del Norte. The famous Mulatos * mine lies about 120 miles east of Ures. There is a fine Alameda at Arispe. The capital of the State was formerly located here. In 1832 it was removed to Ures, which now has 9,700 inhabitants. Ouaymas, the terminus of the Sonora Railway, has a * A million dollars was recently offered and refused for this mine. TEE SONORA RAILWAY. 313 population of 6,000. The liotels are the C'osmojJoUtan and Central. Plans for building a railroad to this town have been discussed for many years. JSTow that the line is fin- ished, Guaymas is destined to grow rapidly. The completion of this road is a yery important events as it establishes the third interoceanic route on this conti- nent. When fast trains are placed on the Atchison, Tope- ka and Santa Fe line, the journey may be made from New York to Guaymas in five days and a few hours. The fare by rail is $108.40. The new line is expected to facilitate communication with Australia, while it will also give the traders of the Mexican, Central, and South American coasts an opportunity to send their products quickly to the Mis- sissippi Valley, the East, and the large cities that lie be- tween the Gulf of Mexico and the Great Lakes. The Sonora Railway also affords Americans a short route to the poi'ts on the Pacific coast of Mexico. The city lies in latitude 28° north and longitude 110° 40' west of Greenwich. It is situated at the foot of a ridge of mountains, and is well protected from winds. Its land- locked harbor is one of the best on the Mexican coast. The entrance to the port is encompassed by islands. The bottom is covered with a very soft mud, so that mas- ters of vessels intending to remain a long time in the har- bor are obliged to raise their anchors occasionally to prevent them from smking too deeply. The depth of water in the inner harbor is from two to four fathoms, affording safe anchorage for vessels drawing from fifteen to eighteen feet. The depth of the outer har- bor is from four to seven fathoms, allowing safe anchorage for vessels of twenty-two to twenty-eight feet draught. The bay abounds in a great variety of fish. Guaymas is built along the shore of the bay, its length being about one mile, and its breadth not exceeding a quar- ter of a mile. The houses are of stone, brick, and adobe. 314 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The climate is exceedingly liot in summer, but delightful in winter. The atmosphere is dry, except in the rainy sea- son, which lasts from June to September. TEE SO NORA RAILWAY. 315 Steamers leave Guaymas every twenty days for Mmiza- niUo, toncliiug at Altata, La Paz, Mazatlan, and San Bias. A wagon-road, extends from Guaymas to Buena Vista on the Bio Yaqici, about 100 miles distant, and thence to the mining town of Alamos, in the southern part of the State. A diligence runs to Alamos (210 miles). There is immense mineral wealth in Sonora, which will be developed by the new railroads. Mines of gold, silver, iron, lead, cojDper, antimony, tin, and sulphur are found in the region adjacent to the Sonora Baihuay, and to the branch road running toward the State of Chihualiua. De- posits of carbonate of soda, alum, salt, marble, and gypsum are also abundant along these routes. The same minerals occur at Oposura, Saguaripa, Altar, and Alamos, the last- named town containing the richest gold and silver mines in the State. For many years the depredations of the Apache Indians have interfered materially with the development of the metallic wealth. One of the most important mineral deposits of Sonora is anthracite, which has recently been discovered at Bar- ranca, on the Yaqui Eiver, about 100 miles from its mouth. The coal is found in sandstone and conglomerate, and is said to contain 90 per cent of carbon. It is probably the largest and richest bed of coal in Mexico. The agricultural products have already been briefly mentioned, but it may be remarked that good crops of sugar-cane, tobacco, wheat, and brown beans are also culti- vated. Such trees as the rosewood, ebony, logwood, and Brazil-wood grow in abundance. SECTION XI. The American and Mexican Pacific Railway. The corporate name of tliis company is "The Texas, Topolobami>o and Pacific Eailroad and Telegraph Com- pany." Its charter was formed, under the general railroad law of Massachusetts, on the 8th of March, 1881. The concession from the Mexican Government was ob- tained on the 13th of June, 1881, and amended on Decem- ber 5, 1882. The leading provisions are as follow : The right to construct or ojierate for ninety-nine years a trunk- line of railroad from Topolohampo Bay to Piedras Negras, on the Rio Grande ; also to extend branches from the main line to Alamos, in Sonora, to Mazatlan, in Sinaloa, to Presidio del Norte, on the Rio Grande, and to other points — a total of about 2,000 miles. A subsidy from the Mexi- can Government of $8,064 per mile upon all of its lines — making a total of about 116,000,000. The freight tariff per ton for each kilometre of distance is not to exceed six cents on first-class, four cents on second-class, and two and a half cents on third-class goods, and one and a half cents on every ton of coal. The passenger rates per kilometre must not exceed three cents, two cents, and one cent and a half for the first, second, aad third classes, respectively. The Federal Government agrees not to subsidize any par- allel railway within a limit of twenty-five leagues on either side of the company's lines. Wood is abundant along the greater part of the route. Pines and oaks are found at an elevation of 4,000 feet and AMERICAN AND MEXICAN PA CIFIC RAIL WA Y. 317 upward. Cedars and firs grow on the crest of the Sierra Madre, above 6,500 feet. The State of GJiiliuahua possesses fine grazing-land (see p. 285). There are much fertile soil and valuable timber in the portions of Sinaloa adjacent to the line. The Pitaliaya. This curious plant is common in various parts of Sonora. The stem is from one foot to two and a half feet in diameter, and the height varies from twenty to fifty feet. The following is a condensed itinerary of this line from Topolohampo to Piedras Negras : Gonzalez City, on the north side of the inner port of Topolobampo Bay, will be the site of the western terminus of the railway. The projected 318 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. city has a water front of 7i miles. It lies in north latitude 25° 32'. The harbor is 18 miles long, and from one to six miles in width. It consists of two great basins, which are connected by the straits of Joshua. The water is 21 feet deep on the bar at low tide. Topolobampo is a far better port than Mazatlan. Leaving Gonzalez City, the railway will have a northerly course as far as Fuerte. It will then enter the " foot-hills " of the Sierra Madre, traverse the southeastern corner of the State of Sonora, and run northeasterly, near the rich mining districts of Urique and Batopilas, to the town of Bocogna (elevation, 7,300 feet), in Chihuahua. From this place the line will take an easterly dii-ection to Nonoavas, and, through the valley of the Rio Con- chas, to a point near Parral. Thence the road-bed will descend to Jimenez, on the Mexican Central Railway. Leaving this station, the track will be continued across the Bolson de Mapimi, and through the State of Coahuila, to Fiedras Negras, on the Rio Grande. From this point, connection can easily be made with lines for Galveston, New Orleans, or the South Atlantic coast. This road will traverse a region in which Americans have invested large amounts of capital. The projectors of the railway hope to obtain much of the overland traffic from New York to Australia and New Zealand, as the dis- tance to Auckland is 530 miles shorter via Topolobampo Bay than via San Francisco, Cal. Hon. Williao Windom is the president of this new railroad company. Tn Decem- ber, 1884, a contract Avas made with the Mexican American Construction Company, to build 100 miles of road from Topolobampo to Baca. On February 17, 1885, the grading under this contract was begun, and it is now progressing under favorable auspices. SECTION XII. The New York, Texas and Mexican Railroad (better known as Count Telfener's RaUroad). Up to the year 1888 no rails had been laid and hence the concession was forfeited. It is possible that another company may complete the road, so a description of the route is here given. This line begins at Rosenhurg Junction^ Texas, and will run to Brownsville, on the northern side of the Rio Grande, via Wharton, Victoria, San Patricio and Banquete. There are two hotels in Broionsville, Miller^s and the Rio Grande. The objects of interest are : Old Fort Brown, the United States Cemetery, the battle-fields of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma and Point Isabel. The Corpus Christi and South American Railroad will igo to Brownsville and thence to Tampico and other points southward. A little grading has been done and the line will probably reach Brownsville in the spring of 1892. The road will cross the Rio Grande at Broivtisville, and, entering Matamoros, it will extend southward to Tamjnco, a distance of about 300 miles. There is no hotel in Matamoros. The places of interest are : The Government buildings, cathedral, theatre. Plaza mayor, the city walls, and the garden and zocalo at Santa Cruz Point. Communication with Bro^onsville is made by row-boats. A clialan, or flat-boat, is used for freight. The so-called Matamoros and Monterey Railroad is the Matamoros division of the Mexican National Eailroad. 320 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The list of stations is as follows : Distance in Kilometres from Matamoros. STATIONS. Distance in Miles from San Miguel. Matamoros YS 10 Rosita 69 14 Escondido 66 26 Capote 69 80 Longofia 66 88 Ensefiada 51 49 64 ... La Mesa Ebano 44 35 ns Corrales 27 86 Rey nosa 22 94 Anzalduas 17 109 Reynosa Vieja 7 114 Las Prietas 4 120 San Miguel The llatmnoros, Linares and MateJmaJa Railroad (3G0 miles long when completed) may make Mata7noros the port of entry for a large and fertile portion of the interior of Mexico and the possible eastern terminus of a transconti- nental line. Thus far only seven miles have been graded. This road may be continued to San Bias on the Pacific coast. Another route, called the " Cuellar Concession," begins at Matamoros and runs to Victoria, with an extension to San Luis Potosi. The company receives a subvention from the Federal Government, and it has built 25 kilometres of road-bed. Leaving Matamoros, the New York, Texas and Mexican line will trend southwesterly across a flat country via San Fernando and Santander as far as the twenty-fourth parallel. At this point the track will be extended eastward to the port of Soto la Marina, which lies about midway between Tam- pico and Matamoros. The harbor of Soto la Marina is said to be navigable for large vessels up to a distance of half a mile from the shore. irEW YORK, TEXAS AND MEXICAN RAILROAD. 321 Soto la Marina was, during the reign of the viceroys, a flourishing town, but it has since dwindled into an unim- portant village. It is situated on the bank of the Corona Kiver about 35 miles from the Grulf of Mexico. Soto la Marina is celebrated in history as the spot where the unfortunate Emperor Iturbide landed in 1824. The main line v/ill run almost due south from this port to Tampico^ via Cruces, Realito, Bejarano, Banapa and Aldama ; while a branch will be extended via Padilla* to Victoria^ the capital of the State of TamauUpas, where it will connect with the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Railroad. (Fi^e Section VI.) From Tampico the railway will run in a southeasterly direction to the port of Tuxpaji, about 125 miles distant. This division of the route passes through the northern part of the State of Vera Cruz, which is noted for valuable wells of petroleum and bitumen. {Vide pp. 157, 158.) The region lying between Matamoros and Tuxpan is fertile for the most part. TamauUpas yields extensive crops of sugar- cane, barley, maize, wheat, cotton, rice, ixtle and tropical fruits. It also contains excellent grazing-lands. The mules raised in this State are said to be the best in Mexico. Many neat cattle and horses also come from TamauUpas. Leaving Tuxpan., the railroad will have a southwesterly course through the northern part of the State of Puebla and the southern portion of the State of Hidalgo, after which it will be continued to the District of Mexico. The last-named tract of country possesses valuable silver-mines. The famous ore deposits of Pacliuca and Real del Monte, in the southern part of Hidalgo, are described on pp. 196, 197. * Padilla is a dilapidated old Spanish settlement. It was on the plaza of this town that Iturbide, the first Emperor of Mexico, was shot in the au- tumn of 1824, in accordance with the decree of the national Congress. The population is about 1,500. SECTION" XIII. The Mexican International Railroad. This line was constructed under the so-called Hunting- ton concession and Avas opened for travel on March 1, 1888. Its northern terminus is at Ciudad Porfirio Diaz^ formerly Pieclras Negras (elevation, 722 feet ; j^opulation, 5,000) in the State of Coahuila. An iron bridge, which is 930 feet long, crosses the Rio Grande at this j)oint and communi- cates with Eagle Pass, Texas. Here connection is made by a branch line with the Southern Pacific Kailroad at Spofford Junction, 34 miles distant. The following is an itinerary of the Mexican Inter- national to the station of Torreon : Leaving Ciudad Porfirio Diaz the track ascends gradually. Passing the hamlets of Fuente {4:'0& miles; altitude, 761 feet), Rosa (8*45 miles; altitude, 912 feet) and Nava (24'73 miles ; altitude, 1,063 feet), the trav- eler reaches ^?/enc?e (32*16 miles). Here the altitude is 1,230 feet and the population about 1,000. A stage-coach runs daily to Zaragoza^ 12 miles north. The line now passes through the stations of Zeowa (41 "4 5 miles; alti- tude, 1,493 feet), Peyotes {ZVI& miles; altitude, 1,595 feet), and descends to Blanco (6448 miles; altitude, 1,2*70 ieet), Balbach (71 '51 miles; alti- tude, 1,112 feet), and Sahinas (72*47 miles ; altitude, 1,116 feet). The population of Sahinas is about 2,000. (Hotel.) Here a branch road runs southeasterly to Felipe (10'84 miles) and Hondo (12-31 miles). Bitumi- nous coal mines are worked in the vicinity. The coal is used by the railway companies in northern Mexico and southern Texas. This branch line will soon be extended to Lampazos on the Mexican National Railroad (see p. 251). Iron-works are in course of erection at Sabinas, and this town may thus become the manufacturing center of the northeastern part of the Republic. A daily diligence runs to San Juan de Sabinas, 15 miles west. THE MEXICAN' INTERNATIONAL RAILROAD. 323 Leaving Sabinas the track crosses (by an iron bridge) the river of the same name. The next station is Soledad (82-31 miles; altitude, 1,217 feet) ; then the road-bed rises to Baroteran (88'93 miles ; altitude, 1,394 feet) and Aura (97''71 miles; altitude, 1,486 feet). At Baroteran, a stage- coach leaves daily for Santa Rosa, 25 miles northwest. The train now passes the stations of Obayos (107"21 miles; altitude, 1,299 feet), Baluarte (116-61 miles; altitude, 1,224 feet), Hermanas (123-25 miles; altitude, 1,299 feet), Adjimtas (136-44 miles; altitude, 1,526 feet), Estancia (144-87 miles; altitude, 1,795 feet), and reaches Alondova (147-84 miles). There is a hotel at the station. Here the population is about 5,000 and the altitude 1,926 feet. This city was founded about the year 1690, and was named in honor of the reigning Viceroy, the Count of Monclova. It was also the capital of Coahuila and Texas when these States were united. Monclova is the center of a silver-mining district. The ores are chiefly found in the mountains on the west. The mines of (Juatro Cienegas are 45 miles distant. Stage-coaches run via Cuatro Cienegas to the silver- mining region of the Sierra Mojada, 155 miles west. (Sec p. 282.) The general course of the railway from Ciudad Porfirio Diaz is south- westerly as far as Soledad. Then it trends southeasterly to Hermanas, whence it runs in a southwestern direction. From Monclova the road-bed ascends and has a southeastern course to Reata (208-72 miles ; altitude, 2,953 feet). The intermediate stations are: Castajio (159-37 miles; alti- tude, 2,454 feet), Gloria (168-64 miles; altitude, 2,700 feet), Bajan (180-81 miles; altitude, 2,766 feet), /o^a (188-53 miles; altitude, 2,720 feet), and Mpinazo (201*21 miles ; altitude, 2,680 feet). From Reata, the track trends southwesterly for nearly 50 miles. The next station is Venadito (223-54 miles ; altitude, 2,920 feet). This is the western terminus of the Monterey and Mexican Gulf Railway. The distance to Monterey is 66 miles (see p. 248). The road now rises to Sanceda (239-72 miles; altitude, 3,271 feet), and then comes Jaral (255-11 miles). Here the elevation is 3,753 feet and the population about 1,000. (Hotel at the station.) A branch road is in course of construction to Saltillo, 42 miles eastward. Meanwhile a daily diligence is run between these two places. At Jaral the track takes a westerly course to Torreon, 128 miles distant. The remaining stations are: Miles. Altitude. Pastora 268-79 3,796 feet. Carmen 282-22 3,878 " Paila 297-11 3,898 " Mimbre 309-34 3,714 " Rafael 319-61 3,616 " Pozo 327-67 3,625 " Miles. Altitude. Bola 335-31 3,573 feet. Mayran 34306 3,589 " Homos 349-82 3,596 " Colonia 358-15 3,625 " Matamoros . . . 369-10 3,648 " Torreon 383-11 3,721 " 324 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The western portion of this railroad traverses a hilly and barren region. It will be seen in the above table that the highest point on the line is at the station of Faila, 3,898 feet. A branch road is in course of construction from Paila to Parras, 18 miles south. Meanwhile a daily diligence is run between these towns. Parras was founded in 1598 and lies in a fertile country. Grapes, cotton and the cereals are grown in the vicinity. The red and white wines of Parras are famous. The climate is healthy. (See p. 245.) At the station of Bola the track skirts the southern end of the Lac/una de Parras, a large but shallow salt lake. A branch line extends from the station of Homos to San Pedro, 15 miles north, and a stage-coach is run from the former town to Vicsca, 20 miles southeast. At Torreon (hotel at the station) connection is made with the Mexican Central Railway. The maximum grade on the line from Chidad Porfirio Diaz to Torreon does not exceed one per cent, or 62 feet to the mile. The Mexican International Railroad was extended, in October, 1892, to the city of Durango, 157 miles southwest of Torreon. (See p. 281.) This section of the route lies wholly in the State of Durango. There are two bridges on the line. The major part of the region traversed is fertile. Cotton and maize grow as far as the station of Chocolate, and cattle are raised near Tapona. At Pedricena a branch goes to Velardena, six miles distant. There are silver-mines in the vicinity. The stations on the Durango Division, with the distances from Ciudad Porfirio Diaz, are : Altitude. 6,211 feet. 6,440 " 6,503 " 6,434 " 6,158 " 6,112 " 6,207 " The population of Dnrnngn is about 30,000. The hotels in the city are : Victoria, Cafe de la Union, Santa Ana, Central, and Sonora House. The famous iron mountain, or Cerro del Mercado, is described on p. 279. There are no tun- nels on the line of the Mexican International. Miles. Altitude. San Carlos . . . 388-11 3,724 feet. Loma . . 397-89 3,839 " Chocolate . . . . 409-87 4,583 " Huarichic . . . . 422-84 4,285 " Pedricena . . . . 432-29 4,291 " Pasaje . . 448-22 5,233 " Yerbanis . .. . . 463-47 6,220 " Miles. Noria 476-88 Catalina 484-81 Tapona 492-36 Gabriel 506-05 Chorro 516-57 Labor 532-99 Durango 54030 SECTION XIV. The Sinaloa and Durango Railroad. This line was begun in November, 1881. It will mn from tbe port of Altaia, on the Pacific, to the City of Durango, via Culiacan and Cosald, a distance of about 225 miles. (See p. 9.) A branch will be extended from Culiacan to Ma- zatlan. At present (February, 1885) the railway is completed from Altata to Culiacan, a distance of 38^ miles. The population of Altata is about 500. The town was destroyed by a cyclone on October 3, 1883. The stations are Guasimillas (7f miles), BacTiimeto (14 miles), Limoncito (15^ miles), Navalato (18 miles), Yeva- rito (22f miles), San Pedro (26y^ miles), Bichihualto (32| miles), Flores (34 miles), Culiacan (38| miles). CULIACAN". Population, 10,000; elevation, 165 feet. Hotels. — Ferrocarril and Diligencias. A diligence runs to Cosald, 97 miles from Culiacan. The city of Durango lies about 130 miles east.* On February 1, 1891, there were in the Mexican Repub- lic about 6,000 miles of completed railways. * Since the chapter on railroads was in type, the author has decided to devote a separate section to each of the four last-named railways, for con- venience in the preparation of future editions. SECTION XV. Table of Distances (chiefly by Rail). Milos. New York to Laredo, via St. Louis 2,187 New York to Laredo, via New Orleans 2,400 New York to Mexico City, via St. Louis and Laredo 3,007 New York to El Paso, Texas, via St. Louis 2,456 San Francisco to El Paso 1,286 El Paso to Mexico City 1,224 Laredo to Mexico City 820 Corpus Christi to Mexico City 983 Monterey to Acambaro 478 Acambaro to Manzanillo 443 Acambaro to Mexico City 172 Vera Cruz to Mexico City 263 Puebia to Mexico City (by rail) 115 Queretaro to Mexico City 152 San Luis Potosi to Mexico City 312 Guanajuato to Mexico City 252 Guadalajara to Mexico City, via Lagos 424 Zacatecas to Mexico City 340 San Bias to Mexico City 661 Durango to ^lexico City 529 Morelia to Mexico City 222 Oaxaca to Mexico City 350 Perote to Mexico City 237 Acapulco to Mexico City, via Chilpancingo 290 Minatitlan to Tehuantepec 136 Benson to Guaymas 863 SECTION XVI, Guatemala. Peioe to the year 1823, Guatemala and Mexico were ruled by the same government. Together, they formed the vioeroyalty of New Spain. Hence the resemblance which, in many respects, the two reiDublics bear to each other. Much that has been stated in Part First, concern- ing the climate, the history, language, literature, religion, education. Jurisprudence, tariff, money, weights and meas- ures, immigration, agriculture, geology, zoology, botany, and the future needs of Mexico, is in general applicable to Guatemala. GEOGRAPHY. Area, 50,600 square miles. Populatioit, 1,200,000,* which is composed of mestizos, negroes, Indians, and whites. The last-named are about 12,000, of which perhaps 1,000 are foreigners. Boundaries. — Guatemala is bounded on the north by Yucatan ; on the east by Balize, the Bay of Honduras, and the Eepublics of Honduras and San Salvador ; on the south by the Pacific Ocean ; and on the west by the Mexican State of Chiapas. The greatest length from north to south is 320 miles, and the greatest breadth is 280 miles. Mouif TAINS. — The larger part of the surface of Guate- mala consists of an elevated table-land, which is a continu- * In round numbers. 23 328 C12IES AND ROUTES OF TRA VEL. ation of the plateau of Yucatan. It has a mean altitude above the sea-level of 5,000 feet. The Sierra Madre, which is a prolongation of the Andes of South America, traverses the country from southeast to northwest, at a distance from the Pacific coast varying be- tween 30 and 50 miles. The mean height of the range is 7,000 feet. The greatest altitude is in the western portion, which bears the local name of the Gucliumatanes Mount- ains. The descent of the Sierra Madre on the southern side is abrupt, while on the northern side it is gradual until it subsides into the plain. The Cordillera is divided into four sections, viz. : Tlie Sierra de las Minas ; The Sierra de Santa Cruz ; The Sierra de Chamd ; and The Sierra del Merendon. 1. The Sierra de las Minas is bounded on the north by GUATEMALA. 329 JVaiive of Mixco. the valley of the Bio PolocMc and the Lake of Izahal, and on the south by the Rio Motagua. The range is formed mostly of Igneous rocks. In the western portion it con- tains mines of some importance, whence it derives its name. 2. The Sierra de Santa Cruz rises to the north of that of 330 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the Minas, from which it is separated by the valley of the Rio Folochic. 3. The Sierra de Chamd lies between the rivers Cahahon and 8arstun on the south, and the Rio Pasion on the north, ending in the Cockscomb Mountains of the territory of Balize. This range, as well as the last- named one, is composed of limestone. 4. The Sierra, or Mountain of Merendon, forms the boundary between Guatemala and Honduras. It branches off from the main body of the Cordillera in the department of Cliiquimula, where its various spurs receive separate and distinct names. A series of volcanoes, about twenty in number, ex- tends across the country. They are not found in the main Cordillera, but occur in the extremities of its southern branches. A line drawn from northwest to southeast passes through the principal ones, and may be called the volcanic axis of the Cordillera of Guatemala. These volcanoes are divided into three sections — the western, the central, and the eastern. The first section comprises the two extinct volcanoes of Tacand and Tajumulco, which are situated in the department of Sa7i Marcos. From the latter sulphur is mined. The central section contains several active volcanoes, beginning with the group of Quezaltenango. The most important is the Cerro Quemado, which has an altitude of 10,200 feet above the sea-level. The last eruption of this volcano occurred in 1785. This group is bounded on the south by the volcano of Santa Maria (elevation, 11,480 feet). Going toward the southeast, one sees on the shores of the Lake oiAtitlan the volcano of San Pedro (elevation, 8,200 feet), which is separated from that of Atitlan by an arm of this lake. Eruptions from the latter volcano took place in 1828, 1833, and 1852. The next group is in the vicinity of Old Guatemala. To the southwest of this city lies the highest mountain in GUATEMALA. 331 Central America, the extinct volcano of Acatenango, which is 13,612 feet above the sea-level. To the north is another volcano which is less elevated. This group is bounded on the south by the Volcan de Fuego, 13,130 feet high. Its Volcan de Affua, Old Guatemala. last eruption was in June, 1880. On the opposite side of the valley of Old Guatemala lies the Volcan de Agiia, which has an altitude of 12,386 feet. To the eastward of this volcano is the group comprising Pacaya (elevation, 7,680 feet), which is separated from it by the valley of the Rio. Michatoya. The last eruption took place in July, 1775. This system includes the two small extinct volcanoes called the Cerro Redondo, from the round conical figure of one of them. In the department of Santa Rosa lies the only outlier of the Cordillera toward the south, the mountain of Santa Rosa, which is between the rivers Michatoya and Esclavos. The southern end of this mountain is formed by the volcano of Tecuamhurro. The eastern section of the volcanoes of Guatemala is S32 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRA VEL. situated in the departments of Jutiajja and Cliiquimula. The northernmost member of this system is that of Ipala, wliose height is 11,808 feet. To the southward lies the volcano of 3Ionterico, which is somewhat smaller. In the same direction and beyond the Eio Ostila is the volcano of Santa Catarina, or Suchitan, in Jutiapa. The minor volcanoes of Ctdma and Amayo are situated on the south-southwest, beyond which is the mountain of Moyuta. The easternmost volcano of Guatemala is that of Chin- go, having an elevation of 6,560 feet. It is located near the frontier of San Salvador. As in Mexico, the country is divided into three zones, as follows : The tierra caliente, The Flaza., (Juezaltenango. between the sea-level and 1,300 feet ; the tierra templada, between 1,300 and 4,900 feet; the tierra fria, between 4,900 and 8,200 feet. The Atlantic shore-line is very ir- regular in shape, while the Pacific coast is bordered with GUATEMALA. 333 lagoons. The former measures 150 miles and the latter is 260 miles in length, EiVEKS. — The country abounds with brooks and streams, some of which are navigable. The chief rivers are, the Pasion, Usumacinta, Chixoy, Negro, Folocliic, Motagua, Margarita, Maria Linda, Guacalate, Madre Vieja, Sama- la, Michatoya, Paz, and Esclavos. Lakes. — The principal lakes are : Izahal, Peten, Ama- titlan, Ayarza, Lacandon, Atitlan, Cuitlan, Guija, and Itzan. Lake Izahal is the largest (area, 860 square miles). Peten ranks next (area, 160 square miles). The latter is well stocked with fish, and contains a species of alligator. The altitude above the sea-level of Lake Afnatitlan is 3,890 feet ; that of Lake Ayarza is 3,100 feet ; and that of Lake Atitlan is 5,110 feet. Climate. — Excepting in the vicinity of the marshy lagoons along the Pacific coast, the climate is considered healthy. The rainy season lasts from May to October. The annual rainfall at the capital is computed at fifty-four inches. The rains are heaviest in the tierra templada. Spkings. — Hot and cold springs are abundant in the country. Some of them contain sulphurous water. Im- portant saline springs occur in the departments of Cliiqui- mula and Santa Rosa. Poets. — The ports on the Atlantic shore are : 1. Izabal, on the south side of the lake of the same name. It lies in north latitude 15° 24', and longitude 89° 9' west of Green- wich. The Rio Dulce forms the outlet of the lake, and the bar at its mouth prevents the entrance of large vessels. 2. Santo To?nds, on the southern end of the Bay of Ama- tique, in the Gulf of Honduras. It is situated in north latitude 15° 38' 3", and longitude 88° 35' 6" west of Green- wich. It is one of the best ports in Central America, al- though insalubrious. It is the chief seaport of the eastern coast of the Republic. The depth of water in the harbor 334 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. is six fathoms, and large ships can anchor close to the shore. 3. Livingston, on the left bank of the Eio Dulce, near the mouth. It lies in north latitude 15° 48' and longi- tude 88° 46' west of Greenwich. This port was established in 1878, when the custom-house of Izabal was removed to it. The main ports on the Pacific coast are : San Jose, at the mouth of the Rio Michatoya, in the department of Escuintla, in north latitude 13° 56' and longitude 90° 42' General View of the City of Quezaltenango. west of Greenwich ; and Cliamperico, in the department of SucMtejiequez, which lies in north latitude 14° 17' and longitude 91° 57' west of Greenwich. There are a few minor ports, such as San Geronimo, Tecojate, and San Luis, in the department of Escuintla, and Los Esclavos, in the department of Santa Eosa. Political Divisions. — The following table, from Fo- ledo, exhibits the twenty departments into which the Re- public of Guatemala is divided, their estimated areas, their respective capitals, their population, and the population of GUATEMALA. 335 the capitals. Altogether, the Eepublic contains 10 cities, 22 towns, 304 townships, and 1,794 hamlets, etc. : DEPARTMENT. "^'t^Uer"^ Population. Guatemala Sacatepequez . . Amatitlan Escuintla Chimaltenango . Solola Totonicapan. . . . Quiche Quezaltenango. . Suchitepequez . . Huehuetenango . San Marcos . . . . Peten Yerapaz Izabal Chiquimula . . . . Zacapa ........ Jalapa Jutiapa.. . . . . . Santa Rosa . . . . Total TOO 250 200 1,950 800 700 700 1,300 450 2,500 4,550 750 13,200 11,200 1,500 2,200 4,400 450 1,700 1,100 50,600 100,000 48,000 38,000 30,000 60.000 80,000 114,000 76,000 94,000 69,000 90,000 100,000 14,000 100,000 3,400 70,000 28,000 8,600 38,000 38,500 1,198,500 Capitals, Guatemala Antigua Amatitlan Escuintla Chimaltenango Solola Totonicapan Santa Cruz del Quiche. Quezaltenango Suchitepequez Huehuetenango San Marcos riores Salama Izabal Chiquimula Zacapa Jalapa Jutiapa Guajiniquilapa Population . 50,000 15,000 14,000 10,000 6,300 15,000 25,000 6,300 22,000 11,500 16,000 12,600 2,200 8,000 750 12,000 4,000 4,000 7,000 5,000 MISCELLAZSTEOUS. In the year 1524 Guatemala was subjugated by Pedro de Alvarado, who had been the trusted lieutenant of Cortes in the Conquest of Mexico. In 1527 Charles V appointed a captain-general to govern the country. Simultaneously with the achievement of Mexican Inde- pendence, the people of Guatemala threw off the Spanish yoke, and annexed themselves to the so-called empire under Iturbide. Upon the fall of that usurper in 1823, Guate- mala became united to the Central American Federal Ee- public. Eight years later, Guatemala seceded from the remaining states and proclaimed itself an independent re- public. In 1871 a religious war broke out, which led to the ban- 336 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. ishment of the archbishop and the suppression of the order of Jesuits. President Barrios, a man of enlightened and pro- gressive views, was elected to the chief magistracy on May 9, 1873, and has continued to fill the office from that day to this. Since the revolution all religions have been tolerated. o^^ifff^m The Katin,,,,/ Jnd'dute, Guatemala. The public debt on January 1, 1882, was $7,139,169. The annual revenue amounts to $7,479,719, and the expen- ditures are slightly in excess of this sum. The largest ex- port trade is with the United States, and the largest import trade is with Great Britain, The main exports are coffee,* India-rubber, woolen cloths, hides, sugar, specie, timber, cochineal, cocoa, sarsaj^arilla, and fruit. In 1882 the ex- ports of Guatemala amounted to $3,719,210, and the value of the imports was $2,254,574. During 1882 the entry of vessels in the three principal ports was as follows : San Jose, 67 steamers, 25 sailing-ves- sels ; Cliamperico, 50 steamers, 14 sailing-vessels ; Living- ston, 41 steamers, 13 sailing-vessels. * About §4,000,000 worth of coffee is grown annually. GUATEMALA. J37 On January 1, 1883, there were in the Eepublic 811 primary schools, in which 37,469 children were taught by 972 instructors, at a cost of $283,000. Evening schools for mechanics and working-women have also been established. There is a governmental School of Arts and Trades, num- bering 15 professors and 150 scholars. The Grovernment is now encouraging immigration. The mineral deposits of the country consist of gold, silver, iron, copper, lead, antimony, zinc, coal, gypsum, and marble. Most of the mineral wealth is found in the de- partment of Cliiquimula, where the far-famed Oloteinque mines are still worked. The department of Izabal contains auriferous gravel-beds and veins of bituminous coal. The latter are found near the volcano of 8an Gil. The Government Building^ Quezaltenango, The vegetable resources may be briefly described as fol- lows : A large portion of the Eepublic is covered with dense forests ; valuable woods, like ebony, logwood, walnut, In- dia-rubber, and mahogany, abound. There are many medi- cinal plants, among which may be mentioned jalap, ipecac. 338 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. sassafras, and sarsaparilla. Various kinds of gums, resins, and balsams are also found. The cereals, Indian corn, cotton, vanilla, sugar-cane, rice, and all tropical fruits grow in the country. Cattle are raised to a considerable extent. The native dialects are the Cakchiquel, Quiche, and Maya. Some im- portant ruins are found at Quirigua. The United States and Great Britain have ministers resident at Ne^o Guate- mala. American consuls, or consular agents, reside at the capital, and at the ports of Cliamperico, San Jose, and Iza- hal. A transcontinental railway is projected by the Gov- ernment from New Guatemala to Livingston, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles. The line will cost about 112,000,000. It is said that the work of construction will be begun in the spring of 1886. There are about 4,000 miles of telegraph in Guatemala. ROUTES AND CITIES. Route I. I. From ToNALA, Mexico, to San Jose de Guatemala, 221 miles. Leaving Tonald, the Pacific Mail steamers touch at San Benito (102 miles) and Cliamperico (145 miles), {Cliamperico Hotel). A Californian corj)oration has recently constructed a railway from the last-named port to Retallndeu, a dis- tance of 30 miles. Retalhuleu is the capital of the depart- ment of the same name, and has a population of 5,000. There are two hotels here. There is no harbor at Cliam- perico, but a substantial iron pier has been erected to facili- tate the landing of passengers and cargo. Leaving Cliamperico, the steamer proceeds to San Jose de Guatemala, 76 miles distant {Hotel, San Jose). An American consul resides at the latter town. This port is an open roadstead, and has a pier similar to that of Cham,- perico. « » iMi'iii]/,,,!;) GUATEMALA. 339 Route II. 2. From San Jose to New Guatemala, '72 miles. Fares, first class, $6 ; second class, $3. Two trains daily. The Guatemala Central Kailroad Company operates a narrow-gauge (3 feet) line from San Jose to the city of Guatemala (73 miles). The stations on the road are : San Jose, Naranjo, Masagua, Mauricio, Escuintla, Palin, Ama- titlan, Petapa, Guatemala. There are eight barrancas, or ravines, which are crossed by bridges. The maximum grade is 4^ per cent. Between Escuintla and Palin, a distance of 13 miles, the road-bed rises about 2,558 feet. This section of the railroad traverses rich coffee and sugar plantations. A branch railway, about one mile long, has been con- structed from the city of Guatemala to Guarda Vieja, a suburban pleasure resort. Another branch line is projected from Santa Lucia to Patulul, about 37 miles in length. GUATEMALA. Population, 60,000 in 1 885 ; elevation, 4,775 feet. Hotels. — Del Gloho, Gran Hotel, Aleman, Del Tcatro. Baths. — Granja del Cipres, El Administrador, Matamoros, and El Zapote. Banks. — International and Colombiano. Carriages, two horses, $2 an hour ; one horse, $1 an hour. Diligences. — To Chiquimula, 50 miles; to Chimaltenango, 31 miles; and to Antigua, 21 miles. Newspapers. — Six are published in the Spanish language. The City of Guatemala is the capital of the Eepublic. It is situated in north latitude 14° 37' 32", and longitude 90° 30' 47' west of Greenwich. It was founded on the northern end of a broad plain in 1776. The streets are straight and cross each other at right angles, but they are badly paved. Owing to the frequency of earthquakes, the 340 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. houses are of one story. The patios are usually ornamented with statuary or with shrubs and flowers. The city has several squares. The largest, a rectangle, 625 feet long by 535 feet wide, has on the east side the cathedral and the archiepiscopal palace, on the west the Governor's palace, ministerial offices, etc., with the mint in the rear ; on the north the City Hall ;i«nd on the south a line of shops. In the center is a fountain and basin for- merly surmounted by an equestrian statue of Charles IV, the horse of which alone remains. A large part of this plaza is occupied by rows of miserable little huts, in which pottery, iron utensils, agrave-thread, and other small wares are sold. The rent of these forms a part of the municipal revenue. In the center of another square is the theatre, equal in size and elegance to any in Spanish America. Eows of The National Theatre^ Guatemala. orange, oleander, and other trees of brilliant flowers and grateful fragrance surround the building, while a profu- sion of statues, fountains, etc., placed at intervals through- out the square, enhances the beauty of this fashionable even- ing promenade. GUATEMALA. 341 Foremost among the public buildings is the cathedral, built in 1780, of simple and elegant design, and occupying a space of 450 feet square. In the decoration of the inte- rior, a chaste variety is observed. There are sculptures in wood, and some fine paintings by native artists. There are The Cathedral^ Guatemala. twenty-four other churches, a hospital, a university, a med- ical school, and a prison. Guatemala has the largest num- ber of educational institutions of any city in Central Amer- ica. Many of the wealthy people of other States send their children here for instruction. The capital can boast of an excellent police force, at the head of which is a former member of the municipal police of New York City, the uniform in both places being the same. There are twenty-five public reservoirs and many fountains. The Avater is brought to the city by two aque- ducts, which cost $2,000,000. The climate of the capital is mild though changeable. April and May are the hottest months. Tlie mean tem- 342 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. perature of the year is 65° Falir., the maximum being 87" and the minimum 41° Fahr. OLD GUATEMALA {Ici AntigUO) . ropulation, 20,000 in 1883. The city lies in latitude 14° 34' 58" north, and longi- tude 90° 44' 5" west of Greenwich. It was founded in 1524 The Plaza, Old Guatemala. by Pedro de Alvarado. In 1541 it was destroyed by a flood of water from the adjacent Volcan de Agua, near the foot of which the ruins of the ancient capital are extant. The remains are now known as the Ciudad Vieja; i. e., Old City. The city was soon afterward rebuilt on a spot a mile distant from the original site, and between the volcanoes GUATEMALA. 343 de Agua and de Fuego. These mountains lie about twenty- miles apart. In 1773 the city was almost razed by earthquakes. Sev- eral years later it was founded anew in the Valle de las Vacas, 25 miles distant from the Giudad Vieja, and the capital was transferred to New Guatemala. The modern city is embellished with numerous gardens. Several of the ancient edifices have been repaired, and the beholder is impressed with their former grandeur and solidity. A small stream, the Pensativo River, runs near the city. There are several schools, and one or two newspapers are published, in old Guatemala. Coffee, sugar-cane, cactus, the cereals, and fruits grow in the environs. The author wishes to record his grateful sense of obligation to Scfior Don Antonio Batres, the present Minister of Guatemala to the United States, for the courtesy with which he has responded to his numerous requests for information regarding the condition and prospects of that Republic. , Quezaltenanuo. APPE]^DIX. Language. The Spanish language, i. e., Castellano, is spoken throughout the Republic of Mexico. Some of the Indians talk Spanish, but the greater part of them have never been willing to give up the speech of their ancestors. The Mexican or Aztec dialect is spoken by a larger number of persons than any other native tongue. The other languages are the Opata, Sobaipure, Tarahu- mar, Cohita or Sinaloa, Zacateco, Acaxec or Topia, Co- manche, Texano or Coahuilteco, Tarasco, Mixe, Totonaco, Mixteco, Zapoteco, Popoloco, Mazateco, Solteco, Chinanteco, Pirinda or Matlalzinca, Yucateco or Maya, Lacandon, Hu- axteco, Chiapaneco, Apache, Othomi or Hiahiu, Mazahua. There is some difference between the Spanish of Castile and that of Mexico in the use of adjectives and nouns. There is also a slight difference in pronunciation in the two countries, e. g., the ''11" is pronounced like "y " in the word "year" in Mexico, instead of having the palatal sound. The "z" is pronounced like "s," instead of having the lisped sound of "th" in "thief." The gut- tural pronunciation of the jota (j) is not as strongly marked as in Spain, and the "d" is not sounded in the middle of a word. There are twenty-seven letters in the Spanish alphabet, every one of which is pronounced, except "h," which is always silent. 346 APPENDIX. The vowels are pronounced as follows : a, like a in father. e. a " mate. i, e " me. 0, " go- u. 00 '' boot. y. y " liberty. 2/ is a vowel when it stands by itself, or at the end of a word, or of a syllable immediately followed by a consonant. The consonants are pronounced as follows : b, like b in baby (b is often erroneously sounded like v). th in theft. ch in chess. d in day and fed. f in effect. h in ham, he. h silent in heir. h strongly aspirated in home. I in labial, elect. II in brilliant. m in amen, n in energy, no. n (somewhat nasal) in onion, p in paper, q in piquet, quint, r soft in erect. r or rr (very harsh) in horror. ss in senseless, t in tent. V in yelvet. X (cs) in maxim. y softer than g or j in gentry, jet. z like th, lisped z, in thermal. * C, before a, o, w, ?, r, and wbeii it is at the end of a syllable, sounds like k in Encrlisb. c,* (( ch, e< d, cc f. (( g» <( h. a J. a 1, (( 11, (I m, (I n. ce fi, <( P, 11 q. tt r, a r, Cl s, a t, iC V, (C X, (C LANGUAGE. 347 In simple words, e, i, c, r, are the only letters that can be written double. In compound words, all the vowels, and also n and s, are written double whenever any of them are the last of the component, and the first of the word to be compounded. The following words and phrases will be found useful : V XiXVUD. ^ , InfiniUve. To have. Tole. Haber. Tener.* Ser. Estar. Having. ^^^^^°- Habiendo. Teniendo. Siendo Being. Estando. Had. PAST PAETIOIPLE. Been. Habido. Tenido. Sido. Estado. Indicative Mood. / have. PEE&ENT TENSE. I am. 1. He. Tengo. Soy. Estoy. 2. Has. Tienes. Eres. Estas. 3. Ha. Tiene. Es.' Esta. 2. V. ha. V. tiene. V. es. V. estd. 1. Hemos. Tenemos. Somos Estaraos. 2. Habeis. Teneis. Sois. Estais. 3. Han. Tien en. Son. Estdn. 2. VV. han. VV. tienen. VV. son. VV. estan. I had. IMPEEFECl TElSrSE. I was. 1. Habia. Tenia. Era. Estaba. 2. Habias. Tenias. Eras. Estabas. 3. Habia. Tenia. Era. Estaba. 2. V. habia. V. tenia. V. era V. estaba. 1. Habiamos. Teniamos. £ ram OS. Estabamos. 2. Habiais. Teniais. Erais. Estdbais. 3. Habian. Tenian. Eran. Estaban. 2. VV. habian. VV. tenian. VV. eran. V V. estaban * Tcnei means " to have " in the posses sivc sen se. IS APPENDIX. FUTrr.E TENSE. I shall have. I shall he. 1. Habr6. Tendr6. Ser6. Estar6. 2. llabras. Tendras. Seras. Estaras. 3. Habra. Tendni. Sera. E star a. 2. V. habra. V. tendra. V. sera. V. estara. 1. Habr6mos. Tendr6mos. Ser6mos. Estar6inos 2. Habr6is. Tendr6is. Ser6is. Estar6is, 3. Habran. Tendran. Seran. Estardn. 2. VV. habran. VV. tendran. W. seran. VV. estaran. ARTICLES. Indefinite Article. Masculine Singular. A or an, Un. Plural. Feminine " " " Una. " Masculine Singular. Feminine '' Definite Article. The, El. Plural. " La. Some, Unos or algunos. Some, Unas or algunas. The, Los. The, Las. PROXOUisrs. The personal pronouns are: Singular.— 1, yo ; thou, tu ; you (your honor or worsliip), usted ; he, el; she, ella ; it, eZ, eZ/a, ello or lo. Plural. — We, nosotros or nosotras ; you, vosotros, vosotras, or vos ; you (your honors or worships), ustedes ; they, ellos., ellas. Possessive Pronouns. Singv lar Plural. My, mi. mis. Thy, tu tus. His, su or de 61. sus or de ellos. Her, T+Q su or 3e ella. Singular. ■ su or de el. su or de ella. sus or de ellas. Plural. sus or de ellos. sus or de ellas. Its, ■ su or de ellos. . su or de ellas. sus or de ellos. sus or de ellas. Mine, mio, mios, raia. mias. Thine, tuyo, tuyos, tuya, tuyas. LANGUAGE. 349 suyo, suyos, suya, suyas. His, her, its, I el suyo, los suyos, la suya, las suyas. theirs. ] el de el, los de 61, el de ell a, los de ella. L los or las de el, etc. Our, ours, nuestro, nuestros, nuestra, nuestras. rvuestro, vuestros, vuestra, vuestras. J de Usted or de Ustedes. Your, yours, \ ^^^ j^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^ I suyo, suyos, suya, suyas. Eblati'ce Pronouns. Quien^ in tne plural quienes or quien, who, which, that. Que, who, which, what, that. Cual, in the plural cuales, who, which. Cuyo, whose, which. Cualquiera, in the Tpiar&lcualesquiera^ whoever, whichever, whatever. Quienquiera, wtioever„ whichever. 2)enionitrathe Prt/iiouns. Sing. Plur. Sing. Plur. Sing. Plur. This. These. That. Those. That. Those. Masculine. Este. Estos. Ese. Esos. Aquel. Aquellos. Feminine. Esta. Estas. Esa. Esas. Aquella. Aquellas. Da-ts. Sunday, Domingo. A holiday, dia de fiesta. Monday, Liines. Fast- day. dia de ayuno. Tuesday, Martes. Once a day, una vez al dia. Wednesday, Mi^rcoles. Each day, cada dia. Tliursday, Jueves. To-day, hoy. Friday, Viernes. To-morrow, manana. Saturday, Sabado. Yesterday, Months. ayer. Enero. Abril. Julio. Octubre. Febrero. Mayo. Agosto. Xoviembre. Marzo. Junio. Setiembre. Diciembre. 350 APPENDIX. A year, un afio. A century, un siglo. A fortniglit, una quincena. Aw eek, una seraana. Numbers. 1, uno. .12, doce. 30, treinta. 2, (los. 13, trece. 40, cuarenta. 3, tres. 14, catorce. 50, cincuenta. 4, cuatro. 15, quince. 60, sesenta. 5, cinco. 16, diez y seis. 70, setenta. 6, seis. 17, diez y siete. 80, ochenta. 7, siete. 18, diez y ocho. 90, noventa. 8, ocho. 19, diez y nueve. 100, ciento. 9, nueve. 20, veinte. 1,000, mil. 10, diez. 21, veinte y uno, or 1,000,000, un millon. 11, once. veintiuno. Feaotions (las fraeciones). Half, la mitad. Third, el tercio, la tercera parte. Quarter, fourth, el cuarto, la cuarta parte, etc. Double, el doble. Treble, el triple. First, el primero. , Second, el segundo. The Seasons (las estaeiones). Spring, la primavera. Mud, el barro, lodo. Summer, el verano or estio. Dust, el polvo. Autumn, el otofio Thunder, el trueno. Winter, el invierno. Lightning, el reldmpago. Cold, el frio. Storm, la tempestad. Heat, el calor. It is going to rain, va k Hover. Rain, la lluvia How cold it is, qu6 frio hace. Snow, la nieve. Too hot, demasiado calor. Dry, seco. How warm, qu6 calor. Traveling by Railway. To travel. viajar. A railway, un ferrocarril. LANQJJAQE. 351 A train, By the railway-omnibus, The luggage, How many parcels? A baggage-receipt, Ticket or booking-office, I want a ticket, First-class, Second-class, Third-class, How is this station called ? How long does the train stop here ? A first-class carriage, A refreshment-room, To start. To arrive, A porter, Do we change carriages here ? un tren. por el omnibus del ferrocarril. el equipage. cuantos bultos? un talon del equipage. Tin despacho de boletas. quiero una boleta. primera class. segunda clase. tercera clase. como se llama esta estacion ? cuanto tiempo se detiene aqui el tren? un coche de primera clase. una f onda. mar char, salir. llegar. un portero. se cambia aqui de coche (or de tren)? The Steamboat {el vapor). To embark, embarcarse. To land, desembarcar, ir a tierra. A boat, una lancha. A berth, un camarote. The deck, el puente. Soa-sickness, el mareo. The Inn {la fondd). The rooms, A floor, A bed. Are the sheets dry ? Clean, To clean. To brush the clothes, House-maid, Lady's-maid, Valet-de-charabre, los cuartos. unpiso, principal, segundo, bajo, etc. una cama. estan secas las stibanas ? liinpio. limpiar. acepillar la ropa. criada. doncella. ayuda de camara. 352 APPENDIX. Landlord, The bil], How much ? Bring the breakfast, A clean towel, To clean the shoes, A glass, Hot water, Boiling water. Wash-hand basin, A bottle of drinking water, Chair, Arm-chair, A sofa, A sitting-room. To call one up, To rise early, To light the fire, A chimney, A night-light, oiiA Waiter, Soap, W. C, Urinal, Office, I want a room. With two beds, Room on the street, Inside room, Bill, How much daily ? Shut the door. Call my maid. Bathing-house, el amo, el fondista. la cuenta. cuauto ? traiga V. el almuerzo. una toalla limpia. lirapiar el Calzado. un vaso. agua caliente. agua hirviendo. la jofaina (lavamanos). una botella de agua para beber. la silla. la butaca, el sillon. un sola. una sal a. despertar. madrugar. encender f uego. una chimenea. una lamparilla. el aceite. mozo. el jabon. el escusado or comun. el meadero. el despacho. quiero un cuarto. con dos camas. cuarto con vista a la calle. cuarto interior. cuenta. euanto vale diario ? cierre V. la puerta. llame V. d mi doncella. casa de banos. Give us some dinner, Dinner is ready, Dinner {la comida). demos Y. de comer, estd. lista la comida. LANGUAGE. 353 Beef, Boiled meat, Salt meat, Roast, Beer, Bottle, Biscait, Bacon, Brandy, Bread (plain). Butter, Cheese, Chicken, Chop, A candle. Claret, To carve. Coffee, Chocolate, A cup of chocolate, A cup, The dining-room, A dish, Table d''h6te, Where is my cover? An egg, A fresh Qgg, A fish, A fork, Grapes, Hare, Ham, A knife, Lamb, A lamp, A lemon, Liquor, Lettuce, Meat, carne de vaca. carne cocida. carne salad a. asado. la cerveza. la boteUa, el bizcocho. el tocino. cognac. pan. la mantequilla. el queso. un polio. una Costilla. una vela. vino tinto. trinchar. el caf§. el chocolate. una jicara de chocolate. una taza. el comedor. un plato. mesa redonda. donde esta mi cnbierta. un huevo, un blanquillo. un huevo fresco. un pescado. un tenedor. uvas. la liebre. el jamon. un cuchillo. el cordero. una lampara. un limoo- el licor. la lechuga. la carne. 354 APPENDIX. Cold meat, Milk, Hot milk. Goafs milk, Mutton, An omelet, Oysters, Pastry, A cake. Peach, Potatoes, A plate, A large dish, A rabbit, A salad, To serve, A spoon, A tea-spoon, A napkin, Sweet, Sour, Sugar, Molasses, Supper — to sup, A tumbler, A pitcher, A wine-glass. Veal, Vegetables, Vinegar, Water, Wine, carne fria, la leche. leche caliente. leche de cabra. el carnero. una tortilla de huevos, ostiones. pastel eria. un bollo. abridor, durazno. las patatas, papas. un plato. una fuente. un conejo, una ensalada. servir. una cuchara. una cacharita. una servilleta. dulce. agrio. el azucar. piloncillo, panocha. la cena — cenar, un vaso. un jarro. una eopa. la tern era. los legumbres. el vinagre. el agua. el vino. The Post-Offioe {el correo, casa de correos)^ The office, la estafeta. A letter, una carta. A single letter, una carta sencilla. A stamp, una estampilla. An envelope, una eabierta. LANGUAGE. 355 Paper, A sheet of paper, A quire of paper, Blotting-paper, Are there letters for me ? Here is my name. Where is the list ? Is the office closed ? Is it too heavy ? Must this letter he prepaid ? The postman^ el papel. un pliego de papel. un mano de papel. la teleta. hay cartas para mi ? este es mi apellido. donde esta la lista ? esta cerrado el despacho ? hay esceso de peso ? hay que franquear esta carta ? el cartero. The OusTOM-HotrsE {la aduana). An employ 6, Is the baggage examined here ? Clothes, Worn, For my own use, The tariff, The duties, What must I pay ? Conti'aband, Shut the trunks, The keys, A carpet-bag, A box, A hat-box, To search, un empleado. se registra aqui el equipage ? la ropa. usada. para mi uso personal. el arancel. los derechos. cuanto hay que pagar ? el contrabando. cierre V. los baules. las Haves. un saco de noche. un haul, una caja. una sombrerera. visitar, registrar. Diligence, Posting, Eiding. Stable, la cuadra. Horses and mules, caballerias. Post-house, la parada, la posta Post-boy, el postilion, delantero. Driver, el cochero. What is the name of this village ? como se llama este pueblo i Are we far ? estamos lejos ? We are near, estamos cerca. The drag, la plancha. 356 APPENDIX. A wheel, The pole, A team of mules, A saddle, Stirrups, A whip, Stop, To stop. To post, When shall we get to A bridle. Forward, una rueda. la lanza. un tiro de mulas. una silla. los estribos. un latigo, una cuarta. pare V. : alto. parar. correr la posta. cuando Uegaremos a ? una brida. adelante. Lettek-Writixg A pen, A steel pen, Direction, Note-paper, Envelopes, Sealing-wax, A wafer. To put into the P. O., A letter-box, Take this to the P. 0., A Cab Drive me to — street, No, Are you engaged ? By the hour, Stop here. Go farther. Go back, Go fast, Go slower, What is the fare ? It is too much, I shall not pay more, Not engaged, i. e., to let Coachman, {para escribir una carta). una pluma. una pluma de acero. sobrescrito, sefias. papel de cartas. los sobres. el lacre. una oblea. echar una carta en el correo. un buzon. lleve V. esta carta al correo. (^un cache de alquiler'). — , vayaustedalacalle — , uiimero- esta V. ocupado ? por hora. pare V. aqui. vaya V. mas lejos. vuelva V. vaya V. de prisa. vaya V. mas despacio. cuanto ? es demasiado. no pagar6 mas. se alquila. el cochero. LANGUAGE. 357 In a Where is ? The theater, The bank, Cab-stand, The museum. The garden, The public walli, The palace, The magistrate. The mayor. Which is the way to — Turn to the right, Turn to the left, A policeman, A street, A square, I wish to see, I do not understand, I do not speak Spanish, I am an American, I am an Englishman, The washerwoman, An apron, A cap, A collar. Cotton, A crinoline, A cravat. Dirty linen, Drawers, A dressing-gown, An under-petticoat, An upper-petticoat, A flannel waistcoat, A napkin, A night-shirt, Town {en una ciudad). donde esta ? el teatro. el banco. la parada de coches de alquiler. el museo. el jar din. el paseo. el palacio. el magistrado. el alcalde. - ? por donde se va a ? vuelva V. a la derecha. vuelva V. a la izquierdao un agente de policia. una calle. una plaza. deseo ver, visitar no comprendc. no hablo Espafiol. soy Americano. soy Ingles. The WAsniNG (lavadura). la lavandera. un delantal. una gorra. un cuello, el algodon. un mirinaque. una corbata. ropa sucia. los calzoncillos. una bata. una enagua. un guardapies. un chaieco interior de flansla una toalla. uua caniisa de dormir. 358 APPENDIX. A handkerchief, Sheets, Shirt, Stays, Stockings, Washing, Washing-bill, Let us count, un pafiuelo. las sabanas. la camisa. el corse, la faja. los calcetines, las medias(if long). lavadura. la cueuta de la ropa limpia. contemos. Bring the clean linea immediately, traiga Yd. la ropa blanca ahora. Tiie stains, las raanchas. Starch, el almidon. To iron, planchar. VOCABULARY. About, Above (beyondX Above (or upward), Abroad, Accordingly, According to. Advance, in. Afoot, on foot, Afraid, to be. Ago, long ago. All, everybody, All the better, Ambassador, Apartment, Appears, it, Apple, Apricot, As for, as to, Ascend, to, Ashore, Ask, to, As much. Asparagus, sobre, cerca. encima de, mas de. arriba. fuera, fuera de su casa. en conformidad. segun. por adelantado. d pi6. tener miedo. pasado, hace mucho tiempo. todo, todo el mundo. tanto mejor. embajador. habitacion, cuarto. parece. manzana. chabacano. en cuanto a. subir. por k tierra, en el suelo. pedir. tanto. esparrago. LANGUAGE, 359 Assembly -room, As soon as, As though, Auction, Auction- room, Auctioneer, Away, Back-door, Bag, carpet-bag. Bakery, Ball, BaU (billiard), Banana, Bandbox, Bank-book, Bank-note, Bank post-bill, Bank, Branch-bank, Bank (joint-stock), Bank (savings). Banker, Barber, Bargain, Bargain, to make a good, or buy cheaply, Barley, Basket, Bath, Bath-keeper, Bath (warm), Bath (tepid), Bath (shower), Bathing room, Bathing establishment, Bathing- di-es8 or gown. Beans, Bedstead, Bed-clothes, 25 sala de reunion, desde que. como si, almoneda, sala de ventas. vendutero, adelante, iejos de aqui. puerta de detras. saco, saco de noche, saco de viaje, panaderia, [6 maleta. baile, bola> platauo, sombrerera. libro de banco, billete de banco, mandato a orden del banco. banco. sucursal (del banco), banco por acciones. banco de aliorros. banquero. barbero. ganga, contrato. to hacer una buena compra ; 6 com- praralgunacosaabuen precio. cebada. cesta ; teuate ; canasta, bano. banista. bano caliente. baflo tibio, bano de asiento dueado. sala de bafios. casa de bafi(js. peinador. habas. armadura de la cama. mantas, sabanas. 360 APPENDIX. Bed-chamber or bed-room, Bed-time, Beef, Beef-steak, Beer, Begone, Behold, look, Bellows, Bell-pnll or belT-rope, Below or down-stairsy Best, for the ; at best^ Betimes, early, Better, I bad, Better and better^ Better for the, Beyond (pointing). Beyond that bouse. Bill-broker, Billiard -room. Bill; bill of fare. Bird, Biscuit, Black, Blacksmith, Blanket, Blind, Blue, Board (living), Boarder (at a boarding-house), Boarding-house or school ; family Bolster, [boarding-house, Book -binder, Bootmaker. Boots, men's ; women's. Boot-jack, Bottle; half- bottle. Box, Brandy, Brass, cuarto por dormir, 6 donnitorio. la bora de acostarse. buey, res. bifteck. cerveza. vayase V. mire V, he aqui. fuelle. cordon de campanilla, abajo. per lo mejor ; la mejor. temprano. har6 mejor. mejor y mejor. mejor. all4. mas lejos de esta casa. corredor de cambio. salon de billar. nota; lista. pajaro. bizcocho. negro. herrero. manta. velo. azul. pension, comida. hu6sped. colegio ; casa de hudspedes. traversero ; almohadon. encuademador. zapatero. botas; botines. sacabotas. botella ; media botella. caja. aguardiente. bronce. LANGUAGE. 361 Bread, fresh, stale, household, brown, Breakfast, Break of day, Breeze, Brewer, • Brew-house, Bricklayer, Bridge, Bring, Broad, Brown, Brush, clothes ; tooth ; boot. Bug, Build, to, Builder, Burial-ground, Business; in business Butcher ; butcher's shop, Butter ; butter-boat, Button, By-way, Cab, Cabbage, Cabin, first ; fore cabin. Cage, Cake, Candle; wax-candle, Candlestick, Cap, Cape, Captain, Card; card-case, Card (visiting). Cards, a pack of. Carpenter, Carriage ; carriage with two Carrots, [horses. Cart, pan, tierno, duro, de casa, mo- reno. almuerzo. punta del dia. brisa, viento. cervecero. cerveceria. albanil. puente. traer. ancho. moreno. cepillo de ropa ; de diente ; do chinche. [botaSo construir. constructor, cimenterio. negocio ; en el negocio, carnicero ; carniceria. inantequilla ; salsera. boton. camino desviado. cabriole, col. primera, segunda sala. jaula. hollo, candela. candelero. gorro. cabo. capitan. carta; cartera. tar j eta. una baraja de naipe9= carpintero. coche; coche con dos caballos. zanahorias. carreta. 3G2 APPENDIX. Cash ; ready money, Cashier, Cathedral, Cauliflower, Cave, Cedar, Certainly, Chain ; watch-chain, Chamber-maid, Chamber-pot, Chair ; arm-chair ; easy-chair. Cheap ; cheaper, Cheese, Chemist, Check, Check-book, Cherry, Chest; trunk, Chicken, Child, Chocolate, Choose, to. Church (for Protestants), Circus, City, Club; society. Coach, Coachman, Coacb-ofBce ; coach-stand, Coat; frock-coat; great-coat, Coal; coal-scuttle. Coast, Cod, Coffee, small cup of, ■with milk, Tvithout milk. Coffee-pot, Coffee-house, moneda; dinero al contado, 6 con- cajero. [tante. catedral. coliflor. cueva. cedro. ciertamente. cadena ; cadena de reloj. cam arista. servicio, orinal. silla ; sillon ; butaca. a buen precio ; mas barato. queso. quimico. mandado. libro de mandados. cereza, caja ; cofre, haul. polio. nifio, nina f. chocolate. escoger. iglesia ; teraplo. circulo. pueblo ; cindad. reunion; sociedad. coche. cochero. cochera ; estaciou de coches, casaca ; levita ; pardessus, carbon; carbonera. costa ; playa. bacalao. cafe. media taza. cafe con leche. caf6 solo. cafetera. caf6. LANGUAGE. 363 Coin, Cold, to be, Colonel, Comb, Company, Company (joint-stock), Compartment (of a railway-car- Compass, [i"iage. Conceal, to, Concert, Conductor, Contract, Convent, Cook, Copper (money). Corn, Cork ; cork-screw. Corset ; corset-maker, Cost, the. Cotton, darning, reel of, fabric. Counter in a shop, Course at dinner ; for races, Court (of a house), Court (of assizes). Court (of justice), Cow, Cowherd, Cup, Cupboard, . Currant-jam, Currants, Curtain, Custard-apple, Custom-house, Custom-house officer, Cutlet, moneda. tener frio. coronel. peine. compania, sociedad. sociedad por acciones. departamento, brujula. ocultar. concierto, director; guia; conductor, contrato, escritura. convento. cocinero ; cocinera. cobre. raaiz. tapon ; tirabuzon. corse ; fabricante de corses. precio, gastos. algodon. algodon liso. bobina de algodon. tegido de algodon. mostrador. servicio ; arena 6 plaza ; hipo- patio. [dromo, tribunal de la audiencia. tribunal de jnsticia, juzgado. vaca. vaquero. copa. armario. confitura; 6 dulce de grosellas. grosellas. cortina. chirimoya. aduana. aduanuero. Costilla. 364: APPEXDIX. Cypress, Daily, Dairy, Date-tree, Day ; a fine day ; a lovely Dear, Depart, to. Dining- room. Dinner; dinner-time. Directly (time). Dish (utensil), (food), Distance ; in the distance. Dog, Drawing-room, Dressing-room, Drink, Driver (of a coach), Drug-store, Eating-house, Elm, Embassy, Entrance, Errand-boy, Evening, This evening, Yesterday evening. To-morrow evening, Every one, Everybody, Every day. Exchange (building). Rate of exchange. Current exchange. Exchange-office, Exhibition (sight), Exit, Fair, a Farewell, Farther, cipres. tod OS los dias. lecheria. palma, palmera. day, dia; uubuendia; un hermosa dia. querido. salir, comedor. comida ; hora de comida. enseguida ; inmediatamente. fuente ; manjar ; plato. distancia. perro. salon de reunion, cuarto de vesdr. beber. cochero ; conductor, drogueria. fond a. olmo. embajada. entrada. niozo que hace comisiones. noche. esta noche. ayer noche. mafiana por la noche. cada uno. todo el mundo. todos los dias. cambio ; bolsa. tasa del cambio. curso del cambio. casa del cambio; monedas. exposicion. salida. una feria. adios. mas lejos. LAXGUAGE. 365 Fasten, to. amarrar. Few, a, un poco de. Field, campo. Finger, dedo. Finger-glass, Fir (tree). Fire-iron, taza. abeto. adorno de hierro. Fireman; fire -engine. bombero ; bomba. Fish, pescado. Fishing-rod, cafia de pescar. Flea, pulga. Floor (story). Flour, piso. harina. Fog, Food or board 1, niebla. comida, alimento. Fore-deck, proa. Forenoon, antes de mediodia. For instance ; in the first instance. , por ejemplo ; en el principio. Pork, tenedor. Fortnight ; a fortnight ago, quincena ; hace unos quince dias. Fowl, ave ; volateria. Freight, carga, flete. Friend, amigo; amiga. Fritters, bunuelos. From, de. From above, de arriba. From afar. de lejos. From behind. de detras. From below or beneath. de abajo. From here or hence. de aqui. From top to bottom. de arriba abajo. Fruit; fruit-market; fruiterer. fruta; mercado defrutas; frute- Full, Ueno. [ro; frutera. Furniture, muebles. Game, caza. Gaol, prision. Garden, jardin. German, Aleman. tjrape. uva. 36d APPENDIX. Gray, Green, Guard (railway). Gin, Glass, Looking-glassy Eye-glass, Glasses (spectacles). Go, to. Goose, Greengi'oeer„ Grocer, Ground-floor, Haberdasher, Haekney-coacb, Hair-brush, Ham, Hamlet, Harbor, Hat; hat-box. Hay, Heavy, Herap, Hides, Horse, * Horse-race, Horse-whip, Hose or stockings, Hosier ; hosiery, Hostler, Ilonr; half an hour; an hour and a half. House, Town-house, Country-house, Housekeeper, Housemaid, Hungry, to be. Ice; ice-cream, pardo. verde. gefe de tren. ginebra. vidrio. espejo. cristal anteojo. anteojos. ir; andar. ganso. verdulero. vendedor de comestibles. piso de la calle. mercero ; mai'chante de noveda- coche de alquiler. [des. cepillo para el pelo. jamon. pueblo ; pueblecillo. puerto. sombrero ; sombrerera. heno, yerba seca. pesado. henequen. pieles. caballo. corrida de caballos. latigo, cuarta. medias. marchante de medias; boneteria. palafrenero. hora ; media liora; una hora y media, casa. casa de ciudad. casa de campo. ama de Haves, serviente. tener hambre. hielo ; mantecado. LANGUAGE. 367 Ice and punch, Immediately, In case ; in that case, Indeed, In due course ; of course, India-rubber, Indigo, Inn, Ink, Instead, Jacket, Joint of meat, Keepsake, Key, Kidney, Kitchen-maid, Knapsack, Knife, Carving-knife, Fruit-knife, Label or ticket (on a box), Lace, Lad, Lady, Lamp ; safety -Limp, Landlady, of a boarding-house or hotel, Landlord of an inn, Lane, in a town ; in the country, Last, at. Latch-key, Laundress, Lead, Lease, Least, at ; not in. Left ; to the left, Less; less and less; so much the less. Letter, helado; sorbete. enseguida ; inmediatamente. en caso que ; en este caso. en efecto ; en verdad. en su tierapo; bien entendido. hule ; goma elAstica. anil. fonda; posada. tinta. en lugar de. vesta ; camisola. pedazo de vianda. recuerdo (de amistad). Have. rinon. cocinera. mochila ; saco de viaje. cuchillo. cortador. cuchillo para las fratas. etiqueta. blonda, muchacho. senora; senorita. lampara ; lampara de seguridad. seflora ; duena ; huespeda patro- na. huesped ; patron. send a ; camino. al ultimo ; por ultimo. Have de noche. lavandera. plomo. un arriendo. al menos ; no del todo. izquierdo ; a la izquierda. menos ; de poco en poco ; de tan- to menos. carta. 368 APPENDIX. Letter of exchange, Light, adj., Lieutenant, Lime (fruit). Limestone, Linen, Dirty linen, Clean linen, Line of railway. Little, a, Not much, As little as possible, Lobster, Lock, Under lock and key, Locomotive, Lodgings, furnished; unfurnished, Logwood, Long ago. Luggage, Luggage-van, Lunch or luncheon, Mackerel, Maid of all work, Man; old man; young man, Manufacture, a. Manufactory, Map, Market, market-place, Mass, Match (for a light). Meal-time, Meat ; boiled meat ; roast meat. Merchant, Mercury, Message ; messenger. Milk, Minister of State, Mint, letra de cam bio. ligero, leve. teniente. lima. caliza. ropa. ropa sucia. ropa limpia. via. un poco. no mucho. lo raenos posible. langosta. cerradura. bajo Have. maquina, habitaciones muebladas. sin mue- palo de tinte. [bles. hace mucho tiempo. equipage. vagon. segundo almuerzo. maquerel ; sarda. sirvienta para todo. humbre; viejo; joven. fabrica ; obra. fabrica. mapa. mercado, plaza del mercado. oficios ; misa. f6sforo. hora de coraida. carne ; pulchero ; asado. marchante; negociante. azogue. mensaje ; recado ; mensajero. leehe. Ministro del Estado. moneda ; casa de moneda. LANGUAGE. 369 Mirror, Miss (young lady), Mist, Money, Bad money. Silver, Gold, Copper, Money changer, Money broker, Month ; by the month ; monthly, Moon, Full moon. New moon, Moonlight. More ; some more ; once more, Morning, Every morning. In the morning, All the morning. Mortgage, Most ; utmost, Mother, Mother country. Mother tongue, Much, So much, Too much, How much. Music ; music hall or room. Music-dealer, Mustard ; mustard-box, Mutton, Mutton-chop, Leg of mutton, Keedle, Newspaper, Newsvender, Night, espejo. sefioi-ita. niebla; neblina. dinero, moneda. moneda falsa. de plata. de oro. de cobre. eambista. corredor de cambio. mes ; al mes ; todos los meses. luna. luna llena. luna nueva. luna clara. [poco ; otra vez. mas ; mas de ; aun ; mas ; aun de manana; aurora, todas las mananas. la manana ; por la manana. toda la manana. hipoteca. cerca ; f uerte ; a lo mas ; todo lo madre. [mas. madre patria. lengua materna. muchc; bien. muy tanto. demasiado. cuanto. miisica; sala de miisica. marchante de musica. mostaza; mostacero. carnoro. Costilla de carnero. pierna de carnero, aguja. peri6dico. marchante de periodicos. noche. 370 APPENDIX. Good night, All night, Every niglit, Noon, Not at all, Note (letter), (small letter), (bank note), Now, Till now. Just now, Nurse; nursery, Oak, Oar, Oats, Oil, One ; once. Onion, Opera; opera-glass. Opinion ; in my opinion, Orange, Outside, the (of a diligence), Outskirts of a town. Over; above; across; upon, Overcoat, Ox-tongue, Oyster, Palace, Paper, Newspaper, Letter-paper, Blotting-paper, Parcel, Parlor, Part ; for my part. Partner ; at a ball ; business. Passenger, Pastry; pastry-cook. Path, buenas noches. toda la noche. todas las noches. mediodia. no del todo. carta. billete. billete de banco. ahora. en este momeuto, hasta aqui. ahora mismo. nodriza ; cuarto para los niiios. roble ; encina. remo, avena. aceite. un; una; una vez. ceboUa. opera ; gemelos. opinion ; a mi parecer. naranja. fuera ; exterior. arrabal. [al traves ; sobre. encima de ; por encima; sobre; sobretodo. lengua de buey. ostion. palacio. papel. periodieo. papel de- cartas. papel secante, teleta. paquete. peQo salon ; locutorio. parte ; porcion ; por mi parte. bailarin; bailarin socio, socia; pasajero. [pareja. pasteleria ; pastelero. camino, vereda. LANGUAGE. 371 By-path, Foot-path or pavement, Pawnbroker's shop, Peach, Pear, Peas, green, Pencil, Penknife, Pepper, pepper-box, Pheasant, Pickpocket, Picture, Pier, Pillow, Pin, Pinch of snuff. Pine, Pine-apple, Pint ; half a pint. Pipe (for tobacco). Pit (theatre), Places round about, Plate ; soup-plate. Play, Play-house, Bill of the play, Pleasure-boat ; boatman. Plough, Pocket; pocket-book, Police, Police-officer, Police-court, Pomegranate, Poor, Popliir, Pork, Pork-chop, Pork-butcher, Post-office, senda. acera. monte pio. melocoton. pera. guisantes, chicharos. lapiz. cortaplumas. pimienta, pirn enter o. faisan. estafador ; ratero. cuadro ; pintura. mola ; escalera ; muelle. alraohada. alfiler. polvo ; polvo de tabaco. pino. pina. pinta ; media pinta. pipa. platea. los lugares del alrededor. plato ; plato para la sopa. comedia. teatro. programa. lancha; barquero. arado. faltriquera; bolsa; cartera. policia. agente de policia ; guardia civil. tribunal de policia. granadita. pobre. alamo. cochino. costilla de cochino. salchichero. casa de correos. 372 APPENDIX. By the post, OtKce for letters to be left until Postage-stamps, [called for, Potato, Present (gift) ; at present. Preserves, Price ; lowest price, Prison ; prisoner, Provisions, Prune ([)lum). Publisher, Pump ; fire-pump, Pumpkin, Purpose, On purpos?. To no purpose, To little purpose, Purse, Quarter, Quiet, Kabbit, Eace-course, Railroad or railway, Railway station, Raspberry, Read, to. Receipt ; receipt in full, Red, Refreshment-room, Rent, to, Retail, Retail-dealer, Wholesale and i*etail. Return ticket. Right, To tlie right. Ring, to, River, Road ; carriage-road, por el correo. posta restante. estampillas. patata, papa. regalo ; presentemente. dnlces. precio ; el ultimo precio. carcel, prision ; prisionero. viveres ; comestibles. ciruela. editor ; pnblicador. bomba; bomba de apagar los in- .calabaza. [cendioa fin; efecto. espreso ; de prop6sito. sin efecto. poco efecto. bolsa. cuarto, barrio. tranquil 0. conejo. terreno de corridas. ferrocarril. estacion. frambuesa. ■ leer. recibo ; carta de page. Colorado ; rojo. fonda. alquilar. por menor. vendedor por menor. por mayor y menor. boleta de vuelta. derecho. k la derecha. tocar. rio. ruta, caraino ; via carrctera. LANGUAGE. 3Y3 High-road, or main road ; by- road ; cross-road, Room, Round about, Route, Eye, Saloon, Salt, Same, It is all the same, Sauce, Saucer, Sausage, Say, to, Scarcely, School, Boarding-school, Day-sclaool, Schoolmaster, Sea ; rough sea, Smooth sea, Sea-sickness, Sea-side, Seed, Servant, Servant of all work, Shave, to. Sheep, Sheet, Ship ; steamship. Shoe, Shoe-black, Shoe-horn, Shop, Shop-keeper, Shovel, Show, to, Side, this; that side. Slice, camino real ; camino desviado ; camino cruzante. cuarto. todo alrededor. rumbo. centeno. salon, sala de visitas. sal. mismo. es todo lo mismo ; es igual. salsa, platillo. salchichon. decir. apenas. escuela; colegio. colegio. colegio. maestro. mar ; alta mar, mar agitada. mar tranquila. mareo. costa. semilla, sirviente, sirvienta; criado. criada para todo. rasurar. oveja. sabana. buque ; vapor, zapato. limpiabotas. calzador. almacen ; tienda. tendero ; tendera. pala. ensefiar. por este lado ; por aquel lado. tajada. 374 APPENDIX. Soap, Soldier, Soup, Sponge, Spoon, Tablespoon, Dessert-spoon, Teaspoon, Spruce, Stable (for horses), Stableman, Stairs, Up- stairs, Down-stairs, Stamp, Station-master, Steamboat, Steam-boiler, Steam-engine, Story (of a house), on first, sec- ond, etc., Stew (of meat, etc.), Straight ahead. Straw, Strawberry, Street, String-beans, Strong, Sugar ; lump of sugar, Summer, Sunrise; sunset, Supper; supper-time, Surgeon, Sweep, to, Sweetbread, Sword, Table, Card- table, Writing-table, jabon. soldado. sopa. esponja. cuchara. cuchara para la sopa. cuchara para postres. cuchara de t6. pruche. cabal leriza. criada de establo. escalera. a arriba. a abajo. timbre. gefe de estacion. vapor. caldera de vapor. maquina a vapor. piso, al primer piso, al segundo. etc. estofado; giiisado. todo derecho. paja. fresa. calle. ejotes. fuerte. aziicar ; pedazo de aziicar. verano. salida del sol ; ponerse del sol. cena; hora de cena. cirujano, medico, barrer. leehecilla de ternera. espada. mesa. mesa de juego. mesa para escribir. LANGUAGE. 375 Work-table, Table-cloth, Table-linen, Tailor, Tart, a, Tax, Tea, Tea-kettle, tea-pot, Tea-things, Tea-tray, Teacher, Telegraph, Electric telegraph, To telegraph, Theater, There, Here and there, Down (or over) there, Up there. Thick, Tliin, Thing, Thirsty, to be, Ticket (railway), Till now. Till then. Till to-morrow. Till Wednesday, Time-table (railway), Tin, Title, Tobacco, Tobacco-pipe, Tobacconist, To-day, Every day, Good-day, To-night, [morrow. To-morrow ; the day after to- 2G mesa de trabajo. mantel. ropa para la mesa. sastre. tarta. contribucion. te. tetera. servicio para el te. plato. maestro, maestra ; profesor„ telegrafo. telegrafo electrico. anunciar por telegrafo. teatro. alii. aqni y alii. alhi abajo. alii arriba. espeso; grueso. delgado. objeto. tener sed. boleta. hasta aqui. hasta entonces. hasta man an a. hasta el mi^rcoles. indicador, estailo. titulo. tabaco. pipa. marchante de tabaco, hoy. todos los dias. buenos dias. esta noche. mafiana ; pasado maOana. 376 APPENDIX. Tooth, Tour, Tourist, Tower, Towel, Town ; town-hall, Train (railway), Down-train, Up-train, Ordinary train, Express train, Fast train. Mail train, Travel, to. Traveler, Commercial traveler. Tree, Trunk (traveling). Trust, to, Tunnel, Turf, Turn, to. Twilight, Umbrella, Under, Up, Down, Up there, Use, Of nse. For the nse of. Usury, Veal, Vegetables, Velvet, Vest, Vinegar ; cooked with vinegar, Village, Visit, to, diente. vuelta. viajei'o. torre. toalla. ciudad ; casa de ayuntamiento. tren. tren de salida. tren de vuelta. tren ordinario. tren directo. tren volante. tren de correo. viajar. viajero. viajador de comercio. drbol. haul. confiar. tnnel ; subterrdneo. cesped ; campo de corrida. volver. crepiisculo. paraguas. debajo. alto^ arriba. alia arriba. uso ; empleo. ttil. al uso de. usura. ternera. legumbres. terciopelo. chaleco. vinagre ; d la vinagreta. pueblo. visitar. LANGUAGE. 377 Voyage ; on a voyage, Watch, Wages, Wagon, • Waiter, Waiting-room, Waitress, Wake, to. Walk, Walking-stick, Warehouse, Warm, to be, Washerwoman, Water, Clean water, Cold water. Warm water. Fresh water, Water-bottle, Watermelon, Wax, Wax-light, Wayfarer, Weary, Weather, JFine weather, Rainy weather. Week, This day week. Last week. Next week, Wheat, Wheel, Wliite, Willow, Wind, Wine; red wine. White wine. Wine-glass, viaje; travesia; en viaje. reloj. salario, gajes. carreta, vagon. mozo. salon de espera. mucbacha. velar. paseo ; vuelta. baston. almacen. tener calor. lavandera. agua lirapia. agua fria. agua caliente. agua fresca. jarro. sandia. cera. candela. carainante. cansado. tiempo, buen tiempo. los tiempos de lluvia, semana. de hoy en ocho. la ultima semana. la semana proxima. trigo. rued a. bianco. sauce. viento. vino ; vino tinto. vino bianco. vaso de vino. 378 APPENDIX. Wood, "Workman, Wrap, to, ■ Year, Yellow, Y'es, Yesterday, Yesterday evening. The day before yesterday, Y'oung, Zinc, madera; lefia. obrero, labrador. envolver. afio. araarillo. si; en efecto. ayer. ayer noche, antes de ayer. joven. zinc. I I^ D E X Abasolo, patriot, 19. Abra de San Nicolas, 236. Academy of Fine Arts at Mexico, 73, 187. at Guadalajara, 271. Acambaro, town, 210, 211. Acapancingo, town, 200. Acapulco, 236, 303. Acequius^ 94. Aclppan, table-land, 28. Acocote, 112. Acolhuans, 16. Acre, yield of crop to, 95. Agate, 85, 121. Agave Americana, 112. Agriculture, 91-100. Agricultural implements, 99. school, 190. Aguadas, 35. Aguadoj-es, 182. Agua miel, 112. Agua Nueva, station, 245, 288. Aguasarco, hill, 230. Aguascalientes, area and population, C8. city, 273. 4gua Zarca, station, 309. Aliorcado, station, 260. Ahuehuete, tree, 190. A.iusco, mountain, 27, 197. Ako, ruins, 38, 149. Alacrati, 89. Alamos, town, 315. Akluma, patriot, 19. Aliens, 135-137. AUende, portrait of, 184. executed, 284. town, 322. Aloe, 93. Alta Luz, station, 166. Altamirano, poet, 83. Altar, town, 315. Altata, steamer to, 315. town, 325. Alvarado's leap, 189. Alvarez, President, 20. Amalgamation process, 267. Amapa, town, 294. Amatitan, town, 272. Araatlan, town, 295. American and Mexican Pacific Eail« way, 316-318. American consuls, list of, 140. Anahuac, 17, 176. Andocutin, station, 211. Angel de la Guarda, island, 30. Angeles, station, 259. Anil (indigo), 90. Anise-seed, 93, 100. Anniversaries, 124, 125. Antimony, 78. Anton Lizardo, 152, 294. Apam, plain and station, 173. Aparejo, 222. Apaseo, station, 263. Apizaco, station, 170. Aqueducts at City of Mexico, 182, 191. at Chiliuahua, '284. at Qucretaro, 260. Arbeu Theatre at the capital, 175. Architecture, 69-73. Are, measure, 105. Arenal, town, 294. Ario, town, 222-224. Arispe, town, 312. Arista, President, 20. Armadillo, 86. Armeria, town, 220. Army, 56. Arrasiras, 267. Arriera, ant, 88. Arroba, weight, 1, 14. 380 INDEX. Artoaga, artist, 73. Artillery, 56. Art-schools, 73, 187. Atapaueo, station, 211. Atlas of Mexico, 101. Atmosphere, on the plateau, 31. Atoyac, river and town, 162. Atzcapotzalco, town, 190. Aves^ 132. Axolotl, 87. Ayotla, town, 299. Aztec kings, 17 ; paintings, 16, 73. Asuceiia, 91. Baca, town, 318. BachiLualto, station, 325. Bachimba, station, 283. Bachimeto, station, 325. Baclmachi, station, 312. Bagdad, town, 147, 156. Baggage, 14. Bagre^ 87. Balize, 25. Balls (bailee), 124. Baltazar de Echave, 73, 187. Bamboo-trees, 89. Bananas, 98. Bandits, 135. Banks and bankers' rates, 62. Banquete, town, 319. Barca, town, 215, 264. Barley, 95, 100. Barnard, General J. G. , 305. Barranca, coal-minCj 815. Barranca del Infiernillo, 166. Barrientos, station, 289. Barrio Nuevo, cascade, 164. Baskets, 120. Batamotal, station, 310. £a(ea, 267. Baths at Aguascalicntes, 273. at Chihuahua, 284. at Mexico, 175. at Monterey, 248. at Morel ia," 211. at Orizaba, 163. at Puebla, 171. at Querdtaro, 260. at San Luis Potosi, 238. Batopilas, district and town, 77, 140, 283, 318. Batuecas, town, 310. Bazaine, Marshal, 23. Beans, 100. Beer, Mexican, 114, 115. Bejarano, town, 321. Belgium, legation of, 176. Belus, tein]jlc of, 46. Benson, town, 309. Bihlioteca nacional, 182. Bishop's Mitre at Monterey, 248. palace, 247, 248. Bocu de los Leones, town, 250. Boca del Monte, station, 167. Boeanegra, 123. Bocogna, town, 318. Bolahos, district, 77. Bolsou de Mapiiiii, 282. Books on Mexico, list of, 142, 143. Boot, Adrian, engineer, 256. Boi'da, gardens, 200. Bonktdo, 120. Bota, station, 166. Bravo, Nicolas, President, 20. Brazil-wood, 89. Bread, kinds of, 52. Bric-a-brac, 130. Bridges : Atoyac, 162. Conchos, 2S3. Laredo, 252. Metlac, 163. Ozumba, 303. at Paso del Norte, 281.. at Piedras Nesrvas, 286. San Pedro, 283. Sabinas, 323. Brigands, 1, 62. Brigantines, 178. Brobkline, station, 309. Brown beans, 95, 100. Bi'ownsville, 319. Bucareli, Pasco de, 188. viceroy, 19. tomb of, 193. Buena Vista, battle-field, 245. Bufa, hill, 276. Bull-fights, 125, 126. Burros, 15. Business opportunities, 141, 142. Bustamante, President, 19, 20. town, 250, 288. Caballeria de Tierra, measure, 104, 107. Cabrera, artist, 73. Cacahuamilpa, caves of, 200. Cacamatzin, king, 17. Cacao, 97. Cachdero, 126. Cactus, 88, 89. Cadereyta, town, 291. Caido, hill, 248. Calabasas, station, 309. Calderon de la Barca, 143, 217. Calendar-stone, The, 184. Calera, station, 263. Calkini, station. 149. INDEX. ' 381 Calle de los Romhres /lustres, 189. Calvo, station, 281. Camacho, station, 281. Camargo, town, 140. Camarou, station, 161. Camino de Ocoyoacac, station, 205. Cainino de Toliica, station, 204. Campeche, area and population, 68. Camph.or-trees, 89. C'aila de asucca', 96. Canalize, President, 20. Canal, Viga, 188. Canary -seed, 100. Cancun, island, 30. Candelaria, station, 2S6. Canisteo, station, 309. Canitas, station, 281. Canoes on Lake Patzcuaro, 217. on Viga Canal, 188. Capas, 126. Capellania, station, 246. CapeUiiia, 267. Carbo, station, 310. Cargadores, 222. Carmen, island, 30. station, 286. Carpio, novelist, 33. Carrera, President, 20. Carribajal, town, 158. Casa del Gobernador and Casa de las Monjas, 37. Casas Gr'andes, in Cliihualiua, 285. de Montezuma, 2S5. Cascabel, 87. Casones, town, 47. Cathedrals : at City of Mexico, 184. at Morelia, 212. at Oaxaca, 295. at Puebla, 172. at Guadalajara, 271. at San Luis Potosi, 239. at ChihuahiTa, 284. at Queretaro, 260. at Zacatecas, 276. Catoche, cape of, 18. Catorce, town, 77. Cattle-raising, 102. Cavalry regiments, 56. Cazadero, station, 259. Cedral, town, 244. Cedres, hacienda, 102, 278. Cedro, station, 281. Celaya, town, 210, 263. Centare, measure, 105. Centigramme, measure, 106. Centilitre, measure, 106. Centimetre, measure, 105. Centipede, 89. C'entoatl, 87. Ceralvo, viceroy, 18. Ce?-illos, 2. Cerralvo, island, 30. Ccrro del Borrego, 22, 1 64. del Proano, 280. de las Campanas, 262. de Cuiche, 231, 233. del Mercado, 78, 279. de los Edificios, 275. del Mirador, 232, 235. de la Mitra, 248. de la Silla, 248. de San Miguel, 268. Cerros, island, 30. Chacamas, river, 38. Cha-ngungo, tree, 227. Chalan, boat, 319. Chalcedony, 121. GJialchihuitl, 121. Chalco, lake, 179. Chamacuero, station, 237. Chapala, ^ake, 30, 272. Chapapote, town, 158. Chaparraleros^ 129. Chapatuato, district, 208. Ghapetas, 121. Chapultepec, castle, 189. Char ape, liquor, 114. Charcas, town, 242. Charles IV, statue, 188. Charlotte, Maximilian's wife, 262. Charnay, explorer, 42, 45, 186. Charo, station, 211. Cheops, pyramid, 47. Chiapas, area and population, 68. CJdma, liquor, 114. Chichen-Itza, 37, 149. Chichimecs, 16. Chico, station, 264. Chihuahua, State, area and population, 68. city, 284. climate and mines, 285. CMle relleno, dish, 52. Chilpancingo, 304. Ghinampas, 188. Chinaj town, 291. Chiquihuite mountain, 161. Ghiriinoya, 90. Chivatito, station, 288. Chivela Pass, 306. Chocolatl, 92. Cholula, 43, 172. Chorro, station, 281. Christ, wooden model of, 187. Christopher Columbus, statue, 188. Chidos, 126. Church, The, 131-134. Churubusco, oattlc-field, 193. 882 INDEX. Churuimico, town, 2'21. Cibuta, stiitiou, SOtt. Ciijars, 53, 115. Ciina, station, 204. Clnco de Mayo^ battle, 171. Cincololes, 203. Cinnabar, 78. Climate, 30, 179. _ Clothinij I'or Mexico, 2. Coahuila, area and populatifin, 68. Coal, 79. Coalcoman, district, T8, 236. Coanacotzin, king, 17. Coast-guard, 56. Coastwise lines, 12. C;obalt, 78. Coatzacoaleos, river, 155, 306, 307. Cochineal, 88. Cock-fights, 126, 127. Cocoa, 97, 100. Cocoamit-wine, 115. Coftee, 96, 100. Cofre de Ferote, 27, 155. Coinsj 61. Colcgio de Mincria, 182, ""57. Colima, area and population. fiS. city and volcano, 21 D. Colleges, 138. Colouia, station, 202. Commerce, 53-55. Comonfort, 21, 23. Concessions for railroads, 7. Concho, station, 283. Conchos, river, 29, 283, 318. Concord coaches, 13. Conejos, station, 282. Conquest of Mexico by Spaniards, 17, 18. Constitution, provisions of, 19. amendment of, 24. Contention, station, 309. Contreras, novelist, 33. Copper, 78. Cordillera, 25, 26. Cordoba, 162. Corona, river, 320. Corpus Christi, city, 253. Corralitos, station,*285^ Correggio, paintings, 187. Cortes, estate of, 199. landing of, 151. palace, 200. deatli of, 19. Cosala, town, 325. Cost, of travel, 6. Costumes, 127, 128. Cotton, 97, 98, 100. Cotton-thread factories, 263. Coyote, 86. Cozumel, island, 30, 38. Crladero de Ganado Mayor, 104, 107. de Ganado Menor, 104, 107. Crimes, 135. Crittenden, station, 809. Crops, compared with U. S., 100. Cruces, town, 321. Cuartilla, coin, 61. Ctiartillo, measure, 112. Cuautitlan, town, 176, :^0D, 254. Cuautitlan, river, 255. Cuautla, town, 303, Cuba, 148, 157. Cueucame, town, 281. Cuellar, novelist, 33. Cuernavaca, 199, 200. Cues, village, 169. Cuicatlan, river, 294, 295. Cuicuitzeatziu, king, 17. Cuitzeo, lake, 211. Culiacan, town. 325. Custom-house receipts, 58. regulations, 53. Danii, station, 259, 289. Decigramme, measure, 106. Decilitre, measure, 106. Del Eio, station, 206. Desagtie of Iluehuetoca, 180, 255-258. De Soto, explorer, 157. Biario Oficial, 176. Diaz, station, 288. President, 24. Diego Juan, the Indian, 191, 193. Dikes, system, 178. Diligences, 13, 14. general office, 175. Dishes, list of common, 52. Dolores Hidalgo, town, 263, 269. Dolores, station, 2S3. Dominguillo, village, 169. Dona Marina, 170. Donkeys, 102, 109. Dos Rios, station, 203. Drainage, 179, 180. Dulce, 51. Durango, area and population, 68. city and Iron Mountain, 27'.S u24. Duties, 57. Eads, J. B., sliip-railwav, 307. Eartliquakcs, 84, 228, 271. Education, 137-139. Eiutla, town, 295. El Chico, town, 197. El Fraile, mountain, 214. El Maiz, town, 240. El Oro, station, 207. El i'aso, 286, 287. INDEX. 383 El Salado, hacienda, 102, 244. 1:1 Salto, station, 209, 259. Embassadors' Hall at Mexico, 184. Emerald, 85, 117. Encarnaeion, station, 2T0, 288. EnciniUas, station, 288. Enoclish companies, 102. debt, 60. Enramada, station, 242. Enurial, station, 1(56. Escalon, station, 283. Escape de San Martin, station, 203. JEscmipil, 116. Escobedo, Genei'al, 262. Escoi'pion^ 89. . Escutcheon of Mexico, 61, 177. Esperanza, station, 167, 169. Espia, town, 312. Estancia de los Padres, 222, 228. Estancia, station, 250. Edufa. 212. Etla, village, 169. Exports by rail and steamer, 54. Express-offices, 15, 16, 175. Ex-votos, 118, 191. Factories, 118. Eairlie locomotive, 166. F'tja, 128. Fanega., 95. Fares on railroads, 10. Fauna of Mexico, 89. Feathered serpent, 185. Fees to servants, 14. Festivals, 124. Fifth of May anniversary, 124, 171. Finance, 58. l^iue Arts. Academy of, 73, 187, 271. Fire-worshipers, 44. Floatino; islands, 188. Flora and flowers of Mexico, 91. Flor de Maria, station, 20?. Flores, station, 324. Fondd^ Fondita^ 51. Foreign Icsjatious, 176. Forey, General, 22. Fort Brown, old, 319. Fortin, station, 163. Francisco, station, 288. French defeat at Puebla, 22, 171. Fresnillo, town and district, 77; 280. FvijoUs^ 100. Frontera, town, 150, 151. Fuel on railroads, 10. Fuerte, town, 318. Fumaroles 84, 227, 301. Furinon de toros, or Faiiciones, 125, 126. Fundo le(ja\ measure, 104. Gallego, station, 235. Galhros, 126. Garay, Jose de, grant, 305. Garcia, station, 246. Gardens, Borda, 199, 200. Gems, 85. Gloves at Salamanca, 263. Goatzacoalcos, river, 29, 306. Gold, annual yield of, 77. Gonzalez City, 318. President, 24, 194. station, 288. Gould, Jay, road of, 290. Grades on railways, 11. Granadita^ 90. Grant, General, 7, 290. Grijalva, navigator, 18, 151. river, 155. Guadalajara, 264, 270-272. places of interest, 271. Guadalupe, suburb of Mexico, 191, 193. station, 173. town, 275, 276. Guadalupe Hidalgo, treaty, 193. Guaje, station, 263. Guanajuato, area and population, 68. city, 265-269. places of interest, 265. district, 77. Guano, 30. Guardia Rural, 56. 173. Guarisaraey, district, 77. Guasimilla's, station. 325. Guatemala, republic, 327-343. city of, 339-341. geographv, 327-335. routes, 338, 339. statistics, 335-338. Old Guatemala, 342,- 343. Guaxaca, 295. Guaymas, town, 313. Guelves, viceroy, IS, 256. Guerrero, area and population, 68. President, 19. Guides, 168, 300~3(;2. Guitars, 123. Gutierrez, hacienda, 167. station, 281. Guzman, station, 281. Haciendas de beneficios, 81, 198, 253. Hargous, P. A., 305. Ilav-ana, 148. Hemp, 100, 148. Hercules cotton-mills, 261. Hermanas, station, 323. Hermosillo, town, 310. Hidalgo, patriot, 19. 384 INDEX. Hidalgo, executed, 284. fliinal, 'J, 11. Mexican Uailwuy, 11, 12. Kainfall and rainy season, 30, 31. Kamos, mines, 77. Kanchevia, station, 286. Jie'di value, 61. Eeal del Monte, town, 197. Kealito, town, 321. liebozo, 128. Kegla, cascade, 197. town, 197. Eellano, station. 283. Eesaca de la Palma, 319. Eestaurants, .50, 51. Eibera, artist, 74. Eice, 100. Ji'iego, 94. Einconada, station, 169, 246. Einconcillo, station, 237. Eincon de Eomos, station, 274. Eincon Grande, cascade, 164. Eio Bravo, 25. Eio Grande, 252, 286. Eio Hondo, river, 149, 204. station, 202. Eittcr & Co., agents, 153. Eiva Palaeio, author, 33. Eivers, list of, 29. Eodriguez, artist, 73. station, 251. Eomcro, Matias, 95, 144, 296, 297. Eoscnburg Junction, 319. Eoutes, short, in Mexico, 5. Eoutes to Mexico, 147. Eubeus, pictures, 187. Eubio family, 261. Miihrlca^ 135. Kuins. 34-49. Ake, 38, 149. Csisones, 47. Chichen-Itza, 37, 149. Chihualiua, 48, 285. Cholula, 43, 44, 172. Labna, 38, 149. Mapilca, 47. Mayapan, 36, 149. Misantla, 47, 155. Mitla, 34, 41-43, 295. Palenque, 34, 38-40. Papantla, 46, 155. Quemada, 275. San Juan Teotihuacan, 44, 196. Tula, 48, 259. Tusapan, 47. Uxmal, 34, 36, 149. Euins, Xcoch, 38, 149. Xochicnlco, 200. Zayi, 38, 149. Sabinas, station and river, 323. Sacramento, 285. Sacrificial stone, 186. Sacromonte, 302, 303. Sada. diliLTcnce line, 278, 279. Sa<-idlc-Miiuntain, 248. Saez, station, 282. Sugi'cirio^ 73, 184, Sa^uaripa, town, 315. Sahagim, historian, 142. ti'da de Emhajadores^ 184. Salado, river, 251, 294. Sahimanca, station, 263. Salazar, station, 204. Salina Cruz, town, 306, 307. Salinas, station, 250, 274. viceroy, 18, 180, 255. Salm-Salm, Princess, 262. Salome Botello, station, 250. Salt, common, 83. Saltillo, citv, 245, 246, 278. Salto de Alvarado, 189. Salto de Medina, 209. Salvatierra, town, 210, 263. Salzburg, 249. Samalayuca, station, 286. San Andres, town, 169. San Antonio, station, 252, 259. San Antonio de Abajo, village, 167. Sana}xi, town, 321. San Bartolito, station, 203. San Bartolo, station, 202. San Bias, 270, 272. Sim Carlos Academy, 73, 187, Sanchez, station, 251, San Cosmc, 189, 190, San Cristobal, lake, 179, 255, town, 155, 296. Sanford's, station, 309. San Fernando, 320. San Geronimo, station, 247. San Ignacio, station, 309. San Isidoro, station, 281. San Jose, station, 210, 286. San Juan, village, 169. Sun Juan Bautista, town, 150, 155. San Juan del Kio, station, 25y. 260. San Juan de los Llanos, station, 169. San Juan de Uloa, 151. San Juan Teotihuacan, station, 174, 196. San Lazar, valley, 203. San Lazaro, station, 298. San Luis Potosi, 238, 240. San Marcos, station, 169. INDEX. 389 San Miuuel, station, 238, 320. San Patricio, station, 319. San Pedro Churunuicu, 230. Sun Pedro de JoruHo, mines, 76. San Pedro, river, 2S3. town, 325. San Tuariol de los Kemcdios, 43. Santa Ann, station, 170, 309. Santa Anna, President, 19, 20, 23, 24. Santa Barbara, station, 273, 289. Santa Catarina, station, 246. river, 248. Santa Clara, village, 221, 235. Santa Craz Point, 319. Santa Eulalia, mines, 284. Santa Maria, station, 246, 273, 289. Santa Rosa, station, 310, 323. Santa Eosalia, station, 283, 288. Santander, town, 320. Santa Teresa, oil-wells, 158. Sarsaparilla, 100. Sauceda, station, 323. Saucillo, station, 283. Sauz, station, 285. Schools, 138, 139. Scott, General, 20. Sedas, town, 295. Scirredo, artist, 73, 184. Sepultura, oil-wells, 158. Seward, William H., 219. Sien-a Madre, 25, 222. Negra, 168. Sierra Mojada, 282, 323. Siesta, 108. Silao, town, 264. Sillas, 72. Silk-worm, 89. Silos, station, 241. Sinaloa and Durango Eailrond, 325. Sinaloa, area and population, OS. Sinda, mines, 214. Slavery, 108. Smuggling, 55. Snake's, 87. Soledad, station, 161, 246, 274, 323. Solfataras, 84. Soils, station, 209. Soltepec, station, 173. Sombrerete, mines, 77, 280. Sonoita, station, 309. Sonora Railway, 309-315. Soto la Marina', town, 321. Spanish Creoles, 08. Spofford Junction, 322. Stump tariff, 65. Standard books on Mexico, 142, 143. Steamships, 12, 13. Stevens, Simon, 306. Stock-raising, 102, 103. Stores, 129,130. Straw. 100. Subsidies for railways, 8. Sugar-cane, 96, 97. Sulphur, 83. Summit Siding, station, 211. Summit, station, 204. Sun and Moon, Pyramids of, 45, 174. Symon, station, 281. Tabasco, area and population, 68. Table d'hote, 51. Tables, area and population, 68, distances, 272, 326. Mexican land-measures, 107. mints, 63. products, 100. public schools, 139. railroad charges, 10. stations on Mexican Central Rail- way, 288, 289. wages, 110, 111. wines and liquors, 115. Tacambaro, town, 224. Tacuba, suburb, 202. Tacubayaj suburb, 189. Tajo de Nochistongo, 256-258. Tamaulipas, area and population, 68. Tamesi, river, 157. Tampico, 12, 157, 292, 321. Tancasneque, town, 292. Tancitaro, town, 218. Tanjuco, village, 292. Tapachula, town, 296. Tapia, Fernando de, 260. Tapias, town, 281. Tarandacuao, station, 210. Tasco, district, 77, 83, 201. Taxes, 58. Taylor, General Zachary, 20, 245. Tecali, 85. Tecomabapa, village, 169. Tecotlalla, king, 17. Tehuacan, town, 169. Tehuantepec Railroad, 305-308. isthmus, 25j 28. Tenango, station, 299. Tejamanil, village, 224, 226. Tejeria, station, 161. Telegraphs, 66, 67. Tclfener, Count, 319. Tema7iua/n, 88. Tenochtitlan, 17, 176. Teocallis, 34, 43-47. Teocuitin, 88. Teolovucan, station, 254. Teotitlan^ village, 109. Tcoyaomiqui, iclol. 186. 7'epejuaje, tree, 227. ;}uo INDEX. Tepctongo, 209. Tepexpam, station, 174. Tepejacac, 191. Topic, town, 272. Tequila^ 113. town, 272. Tei-an, town, 291. Tetitau, town, 272. Texcoco, lake, 179, 188. town, 298. Tliuativs, at City of Mexico, 175. Tieri'n Elanca, station, 2SG. Ticfra caliente^ 27. _/W«, 27. templada^ 27. Tilma of Juan Dieyo, 193. Tluco, value, 61. Tlabualjla, lagoon, 97. Tlaliuicos, 199, 303. Tialnepantla, station, 209. Tlalpujaliua, mines, 208. Tlama'cas, ranch, 300-302. Tlaxcala, area and population, 68. Tlaxpana, aqueduct, 190, Tlotzin, king, 17. Tobacco, 97,'10O. Toltec Palace, 48. Toltecs, 16, 47. Toluca, places of interest, 205, £06. Tonala, port, 296. To II at ill h.. 45. Tonnage of vessels, 55. Topo, station, 250. Topolobampo Bav, 318. Toreadores, 125, 126. Torreon. t^wn, 281, 323, 324. Torres, station, 310. Torta, 267. TwtiUns, 51. Toston, value, 61. Trojes, mines, 208. Tula, 47, 259. Tulancingo, town, 293. Tusapan, 47. Tuxpan, town, 157, 321. Tuxtla, volcano, 84. Tzapotec, 42, 295, 345. Union de Tacuba. station^ 202. Union de Naucalpan, station, 202. Urcs, town, 312. Urique, district, 318. Uruapan, town, 16, 218. Usumacinta river, 150. Uxmal, 34, 36, 37, 149. Valenciana mine, 79, 80. Valladolid, city, 149, 214. Valley of Mexico, 179. Vanilla, 98, 100. ?■(/?■«, 103. Velasquez, 74, 187. Venado, town, 242. Vera Cruz, area and population, 6« city, 152-154. Vtta Grande, 78, 277. Madre, 78, 265, 277. Via anc/osta, 9. Viceroys, 18. Victoria, Guadalupe, Pi-e.-idcnt, 19. station, 291, 319. Viga, canal and paseo, 188. Villaldama, town, 250. Villa Lerdo, town, 281. Villalobos, town, 264. Villa Nueva, town, 278. Virgin, 191. Vomito, 3, 152. Wages, table, 110, 111. War of Independence, 245. Avith the United States, 20. Ward, English author, 143, 279. Washington, portrait, 184. Weii;hts, table of, 106. Wharton, station, 319. Wheat, 95, 100. Wines, 112-115. Wood, 91. Xibalba, 35. Xiquilpan, mines, 215. Xochicalco, ruins, 200. Xolotl, king, 17. Yecapixtla, station, 803. Yermo, station, 282. Yucatan, 18, 32, 34-38, 148, 149. Yucca-tree, 245. Yevarito, station, 325. Zacatecas, area and population, 66 city, 276-278. Zacatula, river, 236. Zambos, 68. Zamora, station, 215, 310. Zaragoza, General, 22, 171. Zarapes, 127. Zimapan, district, 77. Zintzuntzan, town, 215. Zirizicuaro, station, 210, Zopi/otes, 153. Zotol, 113. Zumarraga, Bishop, 16, 16S. Zurbaran, artist, 74. ^ THE END, 3477-6 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 017 395 878 A •V. ■ .• ■ ** ' V 4 I .^ .'-J