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GARMENT DRAFTING BY 
 SIMPLE RULE METHOD 
 
GARMENT DRAFTING BY 
 SIMPLE RULE METHOD 
 
 A Student's Manual for 
 Home and School Garment Cutting, 
 
 BY 
 
 Mrs. Mae Milbourne Gingles, 
 
 Director of Domestic Art Department, Saginaw Manual 
 Training School, Saginaw, Michigan. 
 
 SEEMANN & PETERS, 
 
 Printing, Binding, Engraving, Electrotyping, 
 
 Stationers and Office Outfitters, 
 
 Saginaw, Michigan, 
 
LI&ftftRY of C0M8RESS 
 lwo Cooles Received 
 
 AUG 22 t90f 
 
 CooyneM Entry 
 
 CLASsrA Wte./No. 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 Copyright 1907, by 
 Mrs. Mae Milbourne (tingles. 
 
 Published July, 1907. 
 
<o 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 My aim in publishing this little book is: 
 
 First — to give to the schools a simple and inex- 
 pensive method of pattern drafting which embodies 
 the educational through the practical medium, and 
 which will save time by dispensing with much of 
 the note book work. 
 
 Second — to benefit the woman in the home who 
 would make her own patterns if she could do so 
 without the use of some expensive set system or 
 course of instruction. 
 
 After three years of steady use in my work, 
 during which time I have made a few slight changes 
 in the original draft, and the experience of others 
 in both home and school work, I do not hesitate to 
 say that properly worked out this manual will meet 
 both demands. Should it be helpful to others, 
 though in smaller measure than it has proved to 
 me in my work, the time spent in its preparation 
 will be fully compensated. 
 
 M. M. G. 
 
-5 O 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Preface v 
 
 Introduction vii 
 
 Underskirt Draft 4 
 
 Gored Skirt Draft 8 
 
 Drawers Draft 16 
 
 Shirtwaist Draft 18 
 
 Shirtwaist Sleeve Draft 25 
 
 Neck-band Draft 28 
 
 Night-gown Draft 29 
 
 1-9$(o°& 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The instructions contained in this book are as 
 simple and concise as possible, the intention being 
 merely to do away with the necessity of dictating 
 notes on drafting, necessarily mechanical in them- 
 selves, for certain set rules must "be followed in 
 making a pattern. 
 
 For class work the whole general plan should 
 be carefully developed by the inductive method 
 before the student sees a printed line or hears a 
 dictation, otherwise an injury is done rather than 
 benefit derived, from an educational standpoint. If 
 the instructor has each lesson thoroughly in mind, 
 she will find it quite possible to draw the whole 
 general plan from her class without dictating at all, 
 and it is only such teaching the author advises in 
 this work, because we know that the inductive 
 method is the only true method to follow in the 
 schoolroom if best results are to be obtained. 
 
 By the woman in the home, who simply needs 
 the patterns from a practical point of view, the 
 
instructions will be easily understood, and plain 
 pattern-making made easy. 
 
 The instructions are all for plain patterns, but 
 it is a very simple matter, after a little thought and 
 and practice, to develop more elaborate garments 
 from the same plain patterns. The additions for 
 tucks, plaits, etc., as well as changes in general 
 form, and the drawing of free-hand curves are of 
 great value in studying correct lines, hence the 
 educational through the practical medium. 
 
 The only equipment necessary for making these 
 drafts is drafting paper (the yard-wide, light-weight 
 quality, about 6 cents per pound, is the best for 
 this purpose), a yard rule, 6o-inch tape line, and 
 pencil. 
 
 The plan for making the drafts is based entirely 
 upon the right angle, made up of two lines of une- 
 qual lengths, the long line representing all length 
 measures, and the short line the width measures. 
 The location of the right angle on the drafting pa- 
 per must be carefully observed. A piece of draft- 
 ing paper is laid lengthwise on the table, the right 
 angle drafted at the right-hand end. The direc- 
 tions down, out and tip, constantly used in the in- 
 structions, must be kept clearly in mind : 
 
Dozvn is located toward the right hand or lower 
 part of pattern, following the long line, or length. 
 
 Out is located directly away from the person, 
 either on or parallel with the short line. 
 
 Up is toward the left hand, or upper part of 
 pattern. 
 
 Out: 
 
 A 
 
 Up «- 
 
 •Down. 
 
 A series of numbered dots is used to mark the 
 important points of the pattern according to the 
 measure taken; these dots are then connected by 
 either straight lines or curves. As soon as the stu- 
 dent becomes a little familiar with the drafts the 
 numbers are omitted, and all connections are made 
 without reference to the notes. Within a reasona- 
 ble length of time the instructor should insist upon 
 drafts being made without any reference to instruc- 
 tion book, thus again deriving a two-fold value. 
 
 Add seams to pattern, using the yard rule for 
 drafting all straight seam lines. A much more 
 accurate seam will be made in this way. Seams 
 along curved lines should be dotted. 
 
The importance of accurate measures cannot be 
 too strongly emphasized. A well-fitting pattern 
 cannot result from incorrect measures. They 
 should be taken very carefully in the first place and 
 then verified until there can be no doubt about the 
 correctness. If the measures are true to the figure 
 the pattern will fit perfectly. 
 
 A few set measures are given in some of the 
 drafts. These are correct for the average adult, 
 but in drafting patterns for children or unusually 
 disproportionate forms, judgment must be exercised 
 in the use of these measures. 
 
 Seams should be traced and basted with the 
 greatest care. 
 
LESSONS IN 
 GARMENT DRAFTING. 
 
General Instructions for Skirt Drafting* 
 
 All skirt measures should be taken to the floor, 
 then any desired deduction made, or length added. 
 
 After each part of pattern is drafted, test all 
 measures with a tape line. 
 
 Carefully mark each part of pattern with the 
 name of the gore; also front (or warp) side. 
 
 In cutting out patterns, allow ^-inch seams on 
 sides. Cut top and bottom on draft lines. 
 
 One-half the pattern only is cut — one-half front 
 gore, one side gore and one back gore. 
 
 There should be no seam down the center of 
 front gore, hence the pattern must be placed on 
 cloth folded lengthwise of warp, front side of pat- 
 tern following fold of goods. 
 
 In placing side and back gore patterns on mate- 
 rial, see that front of each pattern follows warp 
 thread, or length of cloth. This is very important. 
 They may be cut singly or on doubled cloth, which- 
 ever cuts to better advantage. 
 
 Width of gores at bottom depends upon height 
 and size of person for whom skirt is made; also, 
 prevailing style. 
 
Instructions for Basting. 
 
 To avoid mistakes, leave each part of pattern 
 pinned to material until ready to baste. JVever 
 notch gores. 
 
 First, pin warp side of side gores to front gore, 
 beginning at top. Always baste with bias part up- 
 permost, to avoid fulling straight edges. Fasten 
 thread firmly at top and baste with small stitches, 
 carefully following seam line. 
 
 Follow same instructions for back gore. Leave 
 8 or 10 inches open at upper part of center back 
 for placket opening. It is well to stay the bias 
 back seam, either with double stitching or straight 
 strip of cloth, to avaid stretching. 
 
 Underskirt Dratt. 
 Measures: 
 
 WAIST: Easy measure around smallest part 
 
 of waist. 
 FRONT: From waist line to floor. 
 SIDE: Over fullest part of hip to floor. Take 
 
 this measure over both hips, and use the 
 
 longer one. 
 BACK: From waist line to floor. 
 
 Widths at Bottom of Gores for 3-yard Skirt: 
 
 FRONT GORE, 12 inches wide. 
 SIDE « 19 « 
 
 BACK « 23 " 
 
FRONT GORE DRAFT. 
 
 -jf Pro u\ -fold o^Cvoo<S<=>. 
 
 a. Use straight edge of paper for long line. Near 
 
 top of paper draw a short line at right angles 
 to long line. Measure down from angle on 
 long line FRONT length of skirt and place 
 dot 1 
 
 b. Up from angle ^-inch, and one-sixth WAIST 
 
 measure out, place dot 2 
 
 c. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 3 
 
 d. Out from 3, 2 inches more than one - sixth 
 
 WAIST measure, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 1 mark desired width of front gore 
 
 with small cross. 
 
 f. Connect 4 and cross with straight line, 
 g- " 2 and 4 with curved line. 
 
 h- " angle and 2 with curved line, 
 i. Measure FRONT length of skirt on line ex- 
 tending from 2 to cross, and place dot 5 
 
 j. Connect 1 and 5 with a curved line. 
 
SIDE GORE DRAFT. 
 
 f Vroxvt Ll^asfel^i4& 
 
 ^hq^ o^ Vafr^r 
 
 Beginning at left-hand end of paper, draw a 
 right angle same as for front gore, except the long 
 line is placed ^-inch from edge to allow for seam. 
 
 a. Down from angle FRONT length, place 
 
 dot i 
 
 b. Out from angle 3^ -inch, place dot 2 
 
 c. Up from angle 24 .inch, and j£ WAIST meas- 
 
 ure out, place dot 3 
 
 d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 4, 3 inches more than j£ WAIST 
 
 measure, place dot 5 
 
 f. Out from 1 mark desired width of side gore 
 
 with small cross. 
 
 g. Connect 5 and cross with straight line, 
 h. " 3 " 5 with curved line. 
 
 i u 2 " n '' " " 
 
 j. " 2 " 4 " " " 
 
 k. Measure SIDE length on line extending from 
 
 3 to cross, and place dot 6 
 
 1. Connect 1 and 6 with curved line. 
 
BACK GORE DRAFT. 
 
 ^ K frout (Uia^frfo, A ^ y) , d ^ 
 
 Draft right angle, same as for side gore. 
 
 a. Down from angle SIDE length, place dot i 
 
 b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 
 
 c. 1 inch up from 2, and % WAIST measure 
 
 out, place dot 3 
 
 d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 1 mark desired width of back gore 
 
 with small cross. 
 
 f. Connect 3 and cross with straight line. 
 
 g. " 2 " 3 with curved line, 
 h. " 2 " 4 " " " 
 
 i. Measure BACK length on the line extending 
 
 from 3 to cross, and place dot 5 
 
 j. Connect 1 and 5 with curved line. 
 
General Instructions for Gored Skirt Draft* 
 
 The same general principles apply to the gored 
 skirt draft as to the underskirt, except that more 
 measures must be taken. The WAIST and HIP 
 measures are subdivided into as many gores as 
 desired, and are known by the names FRONT 
 WAIST, FRONT HIP, SIDE WAIST, SIDE 
 HIP, etc., meaning the width of each gore at the 
 waist or hip, as the case may be. Tables on a fol- 
 lowing page give proportionate WAIST subdivi- 
 sions for each of the 7 01*9 gores of a skirt, ranging 
 from waist measures 18 inches to 36 inches. These 
 subdivisions may be easily rearranged to suit chang- 
 ing styles; that is, a plait added to either side of a 
 front gore may produce an unbecoming width at 
 waist line, hence the pattern should be cut nar- 
 rower, the deduction added to side gores. 
 
 One-half the pattern only is cut — one-half the 
 front gore, one each of the side gores, and one 
 back gore. 
 
 Determine the width of each gore at the hif 
 line in the following manner: 
 
 FRONT HIP is 1 %; -inch more than FRONT 
 WAIST. 
 
 BACK HIP is 1% -inch more than BACK 
 WAIST. 
 
Add FRONT HIP and BACK HIP; deduct 
 this from one-half HIP measure; divide this num- 
 ber into equal parts and it will give the HIP meas- 
 ure for each of the side gores. Do not use any 
 fraction smaller than ^-inch. 
 
 A diagram, similar to the following, should be 
 made before beginning to draft in order to avoid 
 errors: 
 
 Front ist Side 2d Side Back 
 WAIST— 24 2442 
 HIP- 40 2% 7 7 z% 
 
 Foundation skirt lines are the same, no matter 
 what the prevailing style. A shirred, plaited, 
 flared or tucked skirt may be developed from a 
 plain gored skirt pattern bv marking extra width 
 on the cloth before cutting. Use tailor's chalk or 
 colored pencil. 
 
Tabic of Waist Subdivisions for 7-gored Skirt. 
 
 WAIST 
 
 FRONT 
 
 1st SIDE 
 
 2d SIDE 
 
 BACK 
 
 18 
 
 m 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 m 
 
 19 
 
 m 
 
 3M 
 
 3M 
 
 W 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 3^ 
 
 HM 
 
 IK 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 3M 
 
 3)4 
 
 m 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 3^ 
 
 3M 
 
 m 
 
 23 
 
 2 
 
 3% 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 4M 
 
 4M 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 2M 
 
 4M 
 
 4M 
 
 m 
 
 27 
 
 2K 
 
 4^ 
 
 4M 
 
 2> 4 
 
 28 
 
 2M 
 
 4% 
 
 m 
 
 2M 
 
 29 
 
 2M 
 
 4M 
 
 m 
 
 2M 
 
 30 
 
 2M 
 
 4M 
 
 m 
 
 2M 
 
 31 
 
 2M 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 2M 
 
 32 
 
 2% 
 
 5M 
 
 5M 
 
 2M 
 
 33 
 
 3 
 
 5K 
 
 b% 
 
 3 
 
 34 
 
 3 
 
 5K 
 
 VA 
 
 3 
 
 35 
 
 3 
 
 5M 
 
 5% 
 
 3 
 
 .36 
 
 3M 
 
 5M 
 
 5% 
 
 3M 
 
 Widths at bottom for 7-gored skirt: 
 
 Front gore 8 inches ^ 
 
 ^ 8 d tS !? e I; ;;;vg « »X yard skirt. 
 
 Back " '.".'.'. 23 « j 
 
 Front gore 9 inches ] 
 
 1st side " 18 " [ . , k - t 
 
 2d " " 21 " r 4yarcLsKirt. 
 
 Back " 25 " J 
 
 10 
 
Tabic of Waist Subdivisions for 9-gored Skirt. 
 
 WAIST FRONT 1st SIDE 2d SIDE 3d SIDE BACK 
 
 18 V/ % 2% 2% %% W% 
 
 19 \y 2 2y 2 2y 2 2% ^A 
 
 20 2 2% 2% 2% n/ 2 
 
 21 2 2% 2% 2% ih 
 
 22 2 2% 2% 2% \% 
 
 23 2 2% 2% 2% 2 
 
 24 2 3 3 3 2 
 
 25 2 3 3 3 2% 
 
 26 2 3^ 334 314 2M 
 
 27 2^ 3^ 3K 3)4 2% 
 
 28 2M 3^ 3^ W% 2^ 
 
 29 2M 3^ 3^ 3^ 2^ 
 
 30 2)4 '6% 3M 3^ 2^ 
 
 31 2% 3% 3% 3^ 21 
 
 32 2% 4 4 4 
 
 33 2^ 4 4 4 2% 
 
 34 2% A.% 4M 4Ji 2% 
 
 35 2% A% 4M 4^ 2% 
 
 36 2^ 4^ 4^ m 2M 
 
 Measures : 
 
 WAIST: Smooth measure around smallest part 
 of waist. Take slightly easier measure for 
 9-gored pattern than for y-gored. 
 
 HIP : Smooth measure around largest part of 
 hips. 
 
 FRONT: From waist line to floor. 
 
 SIDE : From waist line over fullest part of hip 
 to floor. Take this measure over both hips 
 and use the longer one if there is any dif- 
 ference, which is often the case. 
 
 BACK : From waist line to floor. 
 
 11 
 
FRONT GORE DRAFT. 
 
 £roat Cxort 
 -? Ccnfav front - Fol6 o\ Goo6s./| 
 
 C. 
 d. 
 
 e. 
 
 a. Use edge of paper for long' line. Near top 
 
 of paper draw a short line at right angles to 
 long line. Measure down from angle FR ONT 
 length, and place dot r 
 
 b. Up from angle ^-inch, and FRONT WAIST 
 
 out, place dot 2 
 
 Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 3 
 
 Out from 3, FRONT HIP, place dot 4 
 
 Out from 1 mark desired width of front gore 
 with small cross. 
 
 f. Connect 4 and cross with a straight line. 
 
 g. " 2 " 4 with a curved line, 
 h. " angle and 2 " " " 
 
 i. Measure FRONT length on line extending 
 from 2 to cross, and place dot 5 
 
 j. Connect 1 and 5 with a curved line (it is much 
 easier to sketch this curve if 1 and 5 are 
 first connected by a straight line). 
 
 12 
 
FIRST SIDE GORE DRAFT. 
 
 •fcA^fl a$~ Fayer. 
 
 a. Draw a long line x / 2 -inch from edge of paper. 
 
 Out, near top of paper, draw a short line at 
 right angles to long line. Down from angle 
 FRONT length, place dot i 
 
 b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 
 
 c. Up from angle ^-inch, and SIDE WAIST 
 
 out, place dot 3 
 
 d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 4, SIDE HIP, place dot 5 
 
 f. Out from 1 mark desired width of first side 
 
 gore with small cross. 
 
 g. Connect 5 and cross with straight line, 
 h. " 3 " 5 with curved line. 
 
 a 2 " 2 " " " 
 
 j. " 2 " 4 " " " 
 
 k. On the line extending from 3 to cross measure 
 SIDE LENGTH, and place dot 6 
 
 1. Connect 1 and 6 with a curved line. 
 
 13 
 
SECOND SIDE GORE DRAFT. 
 
 Second side gore draft is usually cut same as 
 first side gore, except that more width is given at 
 the bottom, and both lengths of gore are SIDE 
 lengths. 
 
 BACK GORE DRAFT. 
 
 •ELibqa oV Va>pe.r 
 
 a. Draft a right angle same as for side gore 
 
 drafts. Down from angle SIDE length, 
 place dot i 
 
 b. Out from angle ^-inch, place dot 2 
 
 c. 1 y 2 -inch up from angle and 7 or 8 inches out, 
 
 place dot 3 
 
 (Any width desired may be used here.) 
 
 d. Down from angle 6 inches, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 1 mark desired width of back gore 
 
 with small cross. 
 
 u 
 
f. Connect 3 and cross with a straight line. 
 
 g. Draw a line curving slightly uf from 2 and 
 
 down to 3 (this point is cut merely for safety 
 in fitting skirt. After plaits are laid to fit 
 figure, the cloth should be carefully cut to 
 waist line). 
 
 h. Connect 2 and 4 with a curved line. 
 
 i. On the line extending from 3 to cross measure 
 BACK length, and place dot 5 
 
 j. Connect 1 and 5 with curved line. 
 
General Instructions for Drafting Drawers. 
 
 In cutting out pattern, follow outside line while 
 paper remains folded. For front of pattern, cut on 
 single paper, following the line from i through 5 
 to 4. Shorten pattern to any length desired. 
 
 In laying pattern on material, be sure that length 
 follows warf thread. 
 
 If the waist line is to be finished with a yoke, 
 cut the upper part down the width of the yoke. 
 
 Measures : 
 
 WAIST: Close measure around waist. 
 
 HIP: Close measure around fullest part of hips. 
 
 SIDE LENGTH : From waist line at side to 
 
 bend of knee. 
 KNEE: Width desired at knee, usually from 
 
 12 inches to 15 inches. 
 
 DRAWERS DRAFT. 
 
 FoU 0$ Fafr or ■ 
 
 16 
 
a. Fold i x / 2 yards of drafting paper crosswise, 
 
 using fold for long line. Draw a short 
 line at right angles to fold near left of pa- 
 per. Dozen on fold from angle, 3 inches, 
 place dot 1 
 
 b. Dozvn from 1 , 1 inch more than one-half SIDE 
 
 LENGTH, place dot 2 
 
 c. Down from 1 the whole SIDE LENGTH, 
 
 place dot 3 
 
 d. Out from 2, 2 inches less than one-half HIP 
 
 measure, place dot 4 
 
 e. Out from 1, 3 inches less than one - half 
 
 WAIST measure, place dot 5 
 
 f. Out on short line one-half WAIST measure, 
 
 place dot 6 
 
 g. Out from 3 the KNEE measure, place dot ... 7 
 h. Connect 1 and 6 with a straight line-. 
 
 i. " 6 " 4 " " " 
 
 j. " 4 " 7 " curved " 
 
 k. " 3 4 ' 7 " straight " 
 
 1. " 1 '• 5 " curved '■ 
 
 m. " 5 u 4 " straight " 
 
 17 
 
General Instructions for Shirtwaist Draft. 
 
 DRAFTING. 
 
 One-half the pattern, one-half front and one- 
 half back, is drafted to the lines of the figure, and 
 all extra fullness must be provided for when cutting 
 out waist. 
 
 CUTTING. 
 
 i inch seams should be allowed on pattern on 
 shoulder and under arm. Balance of pattern is 
 cut on draft lines. The lines down the center of 
 front and back represent center of plait and center 
 of back, hence no seams are necessary. 
 
 If shirtwaist is to open in front, take off two 
 lengths of cloth. Make center plait along one 
 straight edge. If it is to be a plaited or tucked 
 waist, the plaits or tucks are put in before pattern is 
 placed. If more fullness is desired than pattern 
 and plaits provide, the cloth may be drawn under 
 from back of pattern after it has been pinned along 
 front, neck and shoulder, but never change the 
 shape at neck curve and shoulder. This will spoil 
 the fit of the waist. 
 
 The center plait along the other half of front 
 need be only a half-inch hem — just wide enough to 
 
 13 
 
hold the buttons. Plaits and tucks must be put in 
 to correspond with other half of front. 
 
 The back is cut on doubled cloth folded length- 
 wise of warp. 
 
 If the waist is to open in the back, two lengths 
 are taken off, and same instructions followed as 
 outlined above. 
 
 The front is cut on doubled cloth, folded length- 
 wise of warp. 
 
 BASTING. 
 
 Baste shoulder seams together, beginning at 
 neck, and follow seam line carefully. 
 
 Baste under-arm seams, beginning at arm's eye. 
 If the pattern has been carefully drafted the waist 
 lines will meet on front and back. 
 
 The i-inch seams on pattern should be cut to 
 3^-inch after first fitting. 
 
 Table of Measures for Front of Neck* 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 2% 
 
 2 7 A 
 3 
 
 3% 
 
 NECK. 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 NECK 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 iiK 
 
 . 2% 
 
 14K 
 
 12 
 
 . 2% 
 
 15 
 
 ™% 
 
 2% 
 
 15& 
 
 13 
 
 • 2% 
 
 16 
 
 13K 
 
 • 2% 
 
 16^ 
 
 19 
 
Table of Measures for Back of Neck. 
 
 NECK. 
 
 INCHES. 
 
 NECK. 
 
 INCHES 
 
 11 
 
 m 
 
 14 
 
 • 2% 
 
 ny 2 . 
 
 m 
 
 14K 
 
 2^ 
 
 12 
 
 i* 
 
 15 
 
 2^ 
 
 12^ 
 
 i# 
 
 «K 
 
 . VA 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 %% 
 
 vdH ■ 
 
 2 
 
 16V 2 
 
 • 2% 
 
 Measures : 
 
 NECK: Smooth measure at bottom of collar 
 band. 
 
 BUST : Smooth measure around fullest part of 
 bust, well down in front and over point of 
 shoulder blades in back. Stand behind per- 
 son when taking this measure. 
 
 WAIST: Close measure around smallest part 
 of waist. 
 
 CHEST: From shoulder to shoulder, i inch 
 below collar band. 
 
 SHOULDER: From bottom of collar band to 
 point of shoulder. 
 
 UNDER ARM: Close under arm to waist 
 line. Do not raise the shoulder when tak- 
 ing this measure. 
 
 LENGTH OF FRONT: From collar band 
 to waist line. 
 
 20 
 
LENGTH OF BACK: From collar band to 
 waist line. The difference between 
 LENGTH of BACK and UNDER-ARM 
 measures is usually 7 inches. 
 
 WIDTH OF BACK: Across shoulders, just 
 above point of shoulder blades. 
 
 FRONT DRAFT. 
 
 a. Draft a right angle, using straight edge of 
 
 paper for long line. Measure out on short 
 line from angle 2 inches, and place dot 1 
 
 b. Out on short line from 1, SHOULDER 
 
 MEASURE, place dot 2 
 
 c. 1 ]/ 2 -inch down from 2 place a small cross. 
 
 d. Connect 1 and cross with straight line. On 
 
 this line measure SHOULDER length, and 
 place dot • 3 
 
 ^1 
 
e. Down from angle on long line whatever 
 
 FRONT OF NECK table calls for in 
 your size of neck, place dot 4 
 
 f. One-half the distance between angle and 4, 
 
 place dot 5 
 
 g. 15^-inch out from 5, place dot 6 
 
 h. Down from 4 on long-line FRONT LENGTH 
 
 place dot 7 
 
 i. Out from 4 draw a line parallel with short line. 
 On this line measure one - half CHEST 
 
 measure, and place dot 8 
 
 j. Down from 4 on long line, 4^ inches, place dot 9 
 k. Out from 9 draw a line parallel with short line. 
 On this line measure one - half CHEST 
 
 measure, plus ^-inch, and place dot ro 
 
 1. Deduct WIDTH OF BACK from BUST 
 measure. Out from 9 one-half this differ- 
 ence, place dot 11 
 
 m. Down from 11 UNDER - ARM measure, 
 
 place dot 12 
 
 n. ^-inch out from 12, place dot 13 
 
 o. 5 inches down from 13, place dot 14 
 
 p. 2 " out " 14, " " 15 
 
 q. 5 " down " 7, " " 16 
 
 r. Connect 16 and 15 with a curved line. 
 
 s. " 1$ " 13 " straight " 
 
 t. " 12 u 11 " " " 
 
 u. " 3, 8, 10 and 11 with curved line. 
 
 v. " 1, 6 and 4 " " " 
 
 22 
 
BACK DRAFT. 
 
 a. Draft a right angle, using straight edge of 
 
 paper for long line. Out from angle on short 
 line whatever BACK OF NECK table 
 calls for in your size of neck, place dot i 
 
 b. Out from i, SHOULDER measure, place dot 2 
 
 c. 2y 2 inches down from 2, place small cross. 
 
 d. Connect 1 and cross with straight line. On 
 
 this line measure SHOULDER length, and 
 place dot 3 . 
 
 e. Down from angle LENGTH of BACK, 
 
 place dot 4 
 
 f. Uf from 4 UNDER-ARM measure, place dot 5 
 
 g. Out from 5 draw a line parallel with short line. 
 
 Out on this line measure one-half WIDTH 
 
 of BACK, plus i^-inch, place dot .6 
 
 h. 1 ^-inch up from 5, place dot 7 
 
 i. Out from 7 draw a line parallel with short line. 
 On this line measure one-half WIDTH of 
 BACK, and place dot 8 
 
 23 
 
j. One-fourth WAIST measure out from 4, plus 
 1 inch, place small cross. 
 
 k. Connect 6 and cross with straight line. On 
 this line measure UNDER-ARM measure, 
 and place dot 9 
 
 1. 5 inches down from 9, place dot 10 
 
 m. 2 " out " 10, " " 11 
 
 n. 5 " down " 4, " " 12 
 
 o. Connect 12 and 11 with straight line. 
 
 p. " 9 " 11 " " u 
 
 q. " 3, 8 and 9 with curved line. 
 
 r. Draw a curved line from 1 to J^-inch below 
 angle on long line. 
 
 24 
 
General Instructions for Shirtwaist Sleeve Draft. 
 
 In cutting out pattern, follow outside line while 
 paper remains folded. For under part of sleeve, 
 cut on single paper, following line from 7 through 
 10, 8 and 11 to 4. Allow half-inch seams along 
 inside length of sleeve. 
 
 If more fullness is desired than plain shirt sleeve 
 provides; lay plait in cloth along center. A smaller 
 sleeve may be cut by laying plait along length of 
 pattern. 
 
 A short sleeve may be cut from same pattern 
 by folding back to any desired length and arrang- 
 ing fullness and height of curve at top to suit mate- 
 rial and style. 
 
 Measures : 
 
 ARiVt'S EYE: Close measure around arm 
 where it joins the body, and over tip of 
 shoulder. Usually this measure should not 
 exceed 15 inches. 
 
 ELBOW: Close measure around elbow with 
 hand on shoulder. The difference between 
 ELBOW and ARM'S EYE should be 3 
 inches. 
 
 WRIST: Smooth measure around hand, about 
 8 inches. 
 
 SHOULDER to ELBOW : From tip of shoul- 
 der to elbow. 
 
 25 
 
ELBOW to HAND: From point of elbow to 
 hand. 
 
 INSIDE SEAM: Measure in front where arm 
 joins body to hollow of elbow while arm is 
 slightly bent. Be sure that this measure is 
 long enough. Usually it is 5 inches less 
 than SHOULDER to ELBOW measure. 
 
 SLEEVE DRAUGHT. 
 
 a. Double paper, using fold for long line. Draft 
 
 a short line at right angles to long line three 
 inches from top of paper. Down from angle 
 SHOULDER to ELBOW measure, place 
 dot 1 
 
 b. Uf from 1, INSIDE SEAM, place dot 2 
 
 c. Down from 1, ELBOW to HAND, place dot. 3 
 
 d. Out from 2, 4 inches less than ARM'S EYE, 
 
 place dot 4 
 
 26 
 
e. Out from i, 4 inches less than ELBOW 
 
 measure, place dot 5 
 
 f. Out from 3, 2 inches less than WRIST meas- 
 
 ure, place dot 6 
 
 g. Up from angle, 2 inches, place dot 7 
 
 h. Connect 7 and 4 with a straight line. 
 
 i. One-half the distance between 7 and 4 place 
 dot 8 
 
 j. . 2^ inches up from 8 place dot 9 
 
 k. 1 inch up from the line half-way between 7 
 and 8, place dot 10 
 
 1. 1 inch down from the line half-way between 8 
 and 4, place dot n 
 
 m. Connect 7, 9 and 4 with a curved line. 
 
 n. " 7, 10, 8, 1 1 and 4 with a curved line. 
 
 o. " 4, 5 and 6 with a curved line. 
 
 p. " 3 and 6 with a straight line. 
 
 27 
 
Neck-band Draft. 
 Measure : 
 
 Smooth measure around neck at lower edge of 
 collar-band. The pattern should be drafted 
 to neck measure, allowance for seams and 
 lap to be made on cloth when cutting. 
 
 
 V 
 
 •J~ 
 
 a. Fold a piece of paper. Draft a long line at 
 
 right angles to fold. Down from angle one- 
 half length of neck-band, place dot i 
 
 b. One-half the distance between angle and i, 
 
 place dot 2 
 
 c. ^-inch out from 2, place dot 3 
 
 d. % " " " 1, " " 4 
 
 e. 1 " " " 4, " " 5 
 
 f. 1 " " " 3, 4 ' " 6 
 
 g. 1 " " " angle " " 7 
 
 h. y 2 " up " 5, " " 
 
 i. Connect angle, 3 and 4 with a curved line. 
 
 j. " 7, 6, 8 and 4 " " " 
 
 28 
 
 8 
 
Night-gown, 
 
 A well-fitting night-gown pattern may be devel- 
 oped from shirtwaist by placing the shirtwaist pat- 
 tern out from straight edge 5 or 6 inches for full- 
 ness, and drafting straight line from under-arm 
 point to any desired width at bottom. Measure 
 FRONT length on straight edge representing 
 center front, and SIDE length on the diagonal line 
 under the arm. 
 
 It may be cut either high or low at neck, or 
 arranged in yoke form. 
 
 Measures : 
 
 FRONT : From collar-band to floor. 
 SIDE: Close under arm to floor. 
 BACK: From collar-band to floor. 
 
 Widths at bottom: 
 
 Front gore, about 25 inches. 
 
 Back " " 21 " 
 
 29 
 
NIGHT-GOWN DRAFT— FRONT. 
 
 \ Center FrouV--Fo\6 o^ Cvoo6s ■ 
 
 kfryi , o^ fft\ag,v. 
 
 The back is placed same as front except a little 
 less fullness is required. 
 
 30 
 


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 014 061 978 4 I