.t12 
 Copy 1 
 
 \;-,^. :/K 'i 
 
 IS^W' 
 
 3k.^v:-'s>: 
 
N. J. McARTHUR 
 
PEN PICTURES 
 
 -OF- 
 
 Standard Cotton Grades 
 
 DESIGNED 
 
 For Use as a Text Book in the Common 
 
 Schools of the 
 
 COTTON BELT 
 
 Combined with 
 
 ^'THE COTTON GRADER" 
 
 By N. 1. McARTHUR. 
 
 Copyrighted October 19l0 
 
 «r"' 
 
.^^ 
 
 'o 
 
 ^^ 
 
 Vi\ 
 
 copies of tliis work on Lntt.m ( iradiniL; will ii«>l l)c sold to 
 those who niav use them. 'I'hey will be leased ohIn and will 
 remain the property of the Author, subject to be returned on 
 demand. The teriu of lease, however, will be indefinite, regu- 
 lated wholly by a compliance of the lessee with the terms of 
 lease, 'idiese terms will be set fortli in a contract and if they 
 are not abused the Ixiok will remain in the ])ossession of the 
 lessee without limit of time, ."^ee W'arnintj^ ra-c !'*'•. 
 
 ^Cl.A:i7o:?*i3 
 
■ INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 111 Mav. 1!M)S. I |)iil)lislic(l ihc "Cotlon ( iradcr," iiUcmlin::; 
 it Id be a full and ciiin])k'te text on the subject of L'otton 
 <"ira(lin^'. Later i i)re|)ai-e(l and ])ublishe(l the same matter in 
 more elaborate form and detail, and made it suijplemental to 
 m\- hrst work, undei- the sub-title of '■< irade Notes."' .My third 
 •effoi't now appears in this series of ""( IradiuL;' i.e.s>oiis." which 
 I concei\e to be the most comi)rehensi\e and yet the >im])lest 
 and clearest ])resentation of the subject to be ottere(l. Antici- 
 ])alinL;' the i>roi;ressi\e idea which will ine\itably introduce 
 this toi)ic into the curriculum of our common schools, these 
 lessons ha\e been prejjared in tlie ])est form for a text work- 
 on the subject. A fidl theoretical knowded^e of the (|uestion 
 ma\ be gained by a careful study of the Pen Pictures i)or- 
 lra\ed. In this ])ortra\al. imaginary types are so \-i\idly 
 ■drawn, that the original Real ma\- be easily known on sij^ht. 
 I'.ut with a set of Real sami)les in 'hand, the whole subject is 
 ])lace(l witliin eas\- luenlal L^ras]). These sam|)les arc of mere 
 nominal cost, and easil\- obtainable. The \eil should be 
 lifted. The manifest truth should be proclaimed that the 
 nusterious intricacies of cotton mani])ulations by the com- 
 luercial world ha\e unnecessarih' been made to include the 
 simple process of ^radin^- or "'saving' what it is." while it is in 
 the hands of the pr(Klucer. 
 
 With the hoi)e that it will accomplish i;reat ujood the 
 work is mi>st respectfulK submitted b\- 
 
 The Author. 
 
PREFATORY 
 
 An Appeal to Southern Patriotism, 
 
 A man lias l)eeii rMl)l)c(l of (Hie hundred dollar-. N^u read of 
 f'he incident with a sort of indifferent sym])atliy for the suf- 
 ferer, ddie ri)l)l)er and liis victim, as you su])i)ose. arc both 
 unknown to \-ou. The money was not yours. 'I he poor roh- 
 ber perhaps needed it. Later you learn that the \ictim was 
 your del)tor. — that he was hearinj^ this, his oidy money, to 
 you to cancel that debt. Mow chanL;ed now the \ie\\ you lake 
 of the matter! ^'our indifferent sym])athy becomes inteii--e in- 
 terest. The poor rol)ber is n<iw a \ile wretch, and the whole 
 circumstance becomes a matter demandiuij; your ])ersonal at- 
 tention 
 
 i-"rom the illustrati\e let us i^o to the real. Thou.^h you 
 ma\- live in a cotton State in which as many as two million 
 bales of cotton are annuallv produced and marketed, if y(»u 
 are not a farmer, you may argue that it is a matter of no con- 
 cern to \'ou what money or price this cotton may brinj^' its 
 producer. lUit let us suppose that these i)r»)ducers l)y a (|ues- 
 tionable svstem of gradinj;" ha\e been made to lose at least one 
 cent a pound or fi\e dollars per bale on e\ery bale sold. I'his 
 means ten millions of dollars entireh' remitved from the money 
 wealth, or as it is termed, the money circulation of your State. 
 Let the term, circulation, apply in its fullest sense to the re- 
 turns of your own business or profession, and let the State, 
 whicli is e\-er your first debtor, be thus held up and robbed 
 of the one hundred dollars, more or less, she may be bearinjij 
 to you. What of the incident? 
 
 Three-fifths of the entire cro]) of all the .'^tates is sold by 
 '"advancini;" country merchants, who know nothini;' of cotton 
 |L;radin2^, and wit'h an a])olooy to an exce])ted few, who care 
 less. Account Closing is the parauK^unt object attendiui;- all 
 sales. A hast_y settlement of all accounts must be made. The 
 impatience of the h'armer Landlord, resident on farm or not. 
 is no less than that of the merchant. He stands by to uet hi-^ 
 
"ti I'I'.X I'K'Tl'KF.S 
 
 :;icre;iL;c' rent. 1 Iv ,^t*ts this and all nther claims. cxcc|)t such 
 as lie Isindlicarlcdiy "extends"' his tenants ti> maintain "ohli- 
 .^atory relations." lie is ]»ertecll\' satisfied tliou^h tlnuisands 
 • i)f lit line-belt )nL;inj4 dollars ma\' lia\e heen taken a\\a\' in this 
 closing of accounts. The independent small farmer is no 
 wisei-. lie is told hy the resident or \isitin<4- ex])erl that his 
 cotton is of tliis or that .L;rade. and \vt)rth so much. II is de- 
 'Cision is accei)ted nn(|nestioned. lie is told that "'Colonel 
 Landlord has sold to-day the same cotton at that h.L;ure." He 
 lets lii^ l;"o. and ])erha])s. with each sale, he has let j^'o from 
 t'hi"ee to ten dollai'> that he mi^ht ha\e retained in his own 
 ])os>e>>ion for his L^ood. for the ^oml of "|'>eck\- and the chil- 
 dren." and tor the higher huildiuL;' of the circulating' wealth of 
 his coiiiniunity. Me docs not know, lie has heen taui^ht that 
 he cannot mentally penetrate the unsoKahle nnsteries of 
 cotton ::.;radinL;. Is it not written that to him it must hi- like 
 an unknown tonj^ue." 
 
 1 >a\ these thinj^s moj-e to cite the fact that the condition is 
 an ahoiuinat ion than to hrim.;' a charge against cotton classers 
 I do not declai'e that the\- take a "rake olT" of se\eral dollar ■■ 
 1)\ nndei'L;radino- each l)ale the\' ina\' purchase, hut I d< > say 
 "The ,L;ap is down." They can do it. As l)usines> men they 
 are in their line for ])usiness. and as a class. the\ ma\- he rated 
 amazingly human. 
 
 In fonmdatin;^ the i)redicate of this api)eal it was not my 
 intention to allude to the loss of an\- especial i!idi\idual or 
 clas^. liut I will i-efer a^ain to the sexeral i)arlies named as 
 particijiants in account closing' and selling;' day transactions, 
 and lea\"e deductions to t'he puhlic that ou^ht to he \itally iti- 
 tcrested. The adxancin;.; merchant closes his accounts. He 
 is read\ to pick- up a few cri])pled cash dollars that may stag- 
 tier his \\a_\'. hut as oiu" colored lin>.iuists would say, ".\Iost- 
 inL;l\ ." he is readv for farmim;' attain — tor "adxanciu^" on tho 
 next crop. He i> satisfied. T'he Landlord l'"armer has had 
 liis lei^al enouii'.! — his acreage rent an<l other claims and he is 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 7 
 
 satisfied. Tlit- tenant fanner, the plow puslier. expected 
 nothing and has recei\ed it. He accei)ts liis few dollars, 
 "'ohliii'ator}" moncw and the clean cleared annual faniil)- ac- 
 (piisition of a new baby as all sufficient _<;rounds for mortal 
 contentment. He returns to his home — that tyi)ical hotbed of 
 a debased and dei^enerate Southern citizenship, gloriously sat- 
 isfied. All resident ministers, lawyers, doctors, school teach- 
 ers and other business men — includiuji;' the bankers — who 
 \;peak ])roudl\- of ha\ini^- "moved the crop." — ha\e l)een blind 
 to the occurrence. They ha\'e seen no money .i^o that shcndd 
 have remained at home. The one 'hundred dollars each, more 
 or less, that would have l)een due them by the State, and 
 prom])tl\- ])aid. has l)een canceled l)y a counter entry of 
 ■■ I'ul)lic ic^ui )rance."" 
 
 Is there a (|uestion as to where this money ^oes ? I will 
 answer that not one (hdlar in ten thousand of "cotton profit 
 money" is circulated by direct regular de])ositin|H" or rein\est- 
 inj4' in an^ section of the cotton territory, unless ])erhaps it 
 is the tip of reward given to the Rxpert hield ( irader. for 
 combiniuiJ" with that cpialitication the character of faithful an,! 
 obedient serxant. Resident holders of cotton mill stock also 
 ma\- l)e exce])ted. but it will be found that the greater nunrber 
 of our boasted home owned cotton mills are oi)erated b\' the 
 capital of non-residents. Api)ly this system to the whole cot- 
 ton section. let it extend back o\er a period of ten vears. 
 and reduce the i)ercentage of htss to a mininunn figure, it 
 would still reach the enormous sum of Two Hundred and 
 I*"ifty Millions o{ dollars. This loss is sustained b\- all the 
 ])eople of the cotton States, as primary and secondar\- sutifer- 
 erers. in the order 1 have set forth. Yet we. all of us, like 
 the hilarious, ignorant tenant farmer, are satisfied. 1 was 
 born and reared in the .Stnith in the land of cotton. 1 am 
 proud of it. but 1 do not know why. saving the fact that it 
 makes me a democrat — whatever that may l)e. No, I am 
 proud of my i)eople — of our olden customs, and of all which 
 
8 VKK PIC'ri'KES 
 
 it has l)een i>ur pride {*< l)<>ast. I know \\c arc not slow-niindccl ; 
 I'hat from our cross roads liorsc swap])ers to our lari^cst l)ank- 
 crs, merchants, and manufacturers we ha\e money chasers and 
 nione\- getters of the shrewdest "donar per cent." type. lUit 
 eotton. w liat of cotton? 'l"lioui;h it is the hi^'^est known com- 
 mercial pro])osition — the l^reatest sin!.iie money hearing- i)rod- 
 uct in the vvliole worlih and though we of tlie Sout'h liave a 
 monopol\- of ownershi]). we ha\e liitherto ignored all sources 
 of loss. onl\- looking with treml)ling anxiety to the settling ot 
 our domestic accoiuits and making an annual halance of our 
 hooks. ( )ur ahle financiers ha\ e not taken cognizance oi the 
 loss t'hat may and therefore does exist as a result ol under- 
 grading, and strange to say. they have never manifested inter- 
 est enough in the matter to hx^k f(^r that or an\- other mone\' 
 leak Irom i>ur country, j^ertaining to the marketing of cottou. 
 Consideration of this (piestion has heen left to the ])ro(lucer. 
 Who is the pi'oducer? Let us look for 'him. It is not the land- 
 owner, who is satisfied with preserved lands and collected 
 rents, though from his hroad acred domain hundreds of hales 
 may go to market. It is not the small independent grower. 
 l'"or though he sits in council with his fellows and ad<ipts 
 high-sounding resolutions, he feels ''min()ritv sensations." Ke 
 knows that a majority of his fellows are like the tenant, hound 
 to the advancing merchant. l^e feels heli)less — 'he is hel])- 
 less. and he knows that his high sounding resolutions are ah- 
 solutely wortldess exce])t for the poetic heaut\- of their com])o- 
 sition. The tenant farmer is not t'he producer, for he is hut 
 a cog in the general mechanism. Xeither is the advancing 
 merchant. True the landlord has waived his right to do some- 
 thing directly to this hand of tenant plow pushers. He steps 
 aside and yields this right to the advancing merchant, hut the 
 advancing merchant declines to hecome a ])roducer hevond 
 the point of ordering sales and closing accounts. If these 
 the actors most nearly connected wit'h this greatest field prod- 
 uct of the woidd. lose eac'h that proprietary interest which 
 
s'r.\xi).\Ri) ro'i'Tox (iKAi)i-:s o 
 
 wt)iild make liini more lliaii a mere factor (jr a,Li,eiit. tlicn the 
 State, tlie Public, We, the People, l:)ec()me t'lie real ])rotlueers. 
 Have not we. tlie ])eo|)If. an interest in tlie market price of a 
 Six Hundred Million Dollar yearly croj) ()ul])nt L;ro\vn upon our 
 soil, that demands public attention, public ])romoting' and ])ub- 
 lic o;uardinj;? Is it not^ ])atent that the sale of this product 
 calls Tor a little Harmless State Regulating? Harmless in 
 that it means rej^ulatin^' lhrou!L;h educational work. Should 
 not we, the people, as a .State. sa\e this money waste by i;i\in^- 
 to the selling- farmer that education which wouild enable him 
 to know the ^rade of cotton 'he sells? It Is this point of 
 his inexcusable lack of knowledge which has made the Two 
 Hundred and i'ifty Million dollar loss possible within the last 
 ten _\ears to the whole people of the cotton section. It is ;i 
 shame that they remain ii;norant of that w'hich mav be so 
 easih' learned and that they continue to permit themsehes 
 to be hoodwinked with the stor\ that a knowledg'e of cotton 
 i^radiui;" is an occult science — a com|)oim(l enigmatical prob- 
 lem — that it can be possesed only !)y an elect few who j^airi 
 acquaintance with this special light throu.i^h a mvsterious con- 
 nection with the >;ift-source of superior endowments. 
 
 \\ hy ha\e our cotton ])roducers believed this unreasonable 
 statement? My ])eoplc do not consider. Urot'ier tm" the 
 ."south, do not be offended when 1 tell vou that if Conne'-iieut, 
 or any other of our so-called ^'ankee States \\cre a cotton 
 .urowin^- .State, within its l)orders could not be found a farm- 
 er l)o}- fourteen years of aqe who would not know well the 
 ij^rades of the cotton marketed from his father's farm. I'.ut 
 how is it with us? We trust, we belie\e. we are deceived. We 
 are mystified, we are inoculated, we are satm-ated. ves. we are 
 literally ••soaked." with the false teaching- that Cotton Grad- 
 ing is a d>>u])le-action, rexerse-rexohint;-. here it is. there it is, 
 n(Tw you see it and now you don't see it, delusixe science im- 
 measuraldy beyond the scope of a farmer's comprehension. 
 J his is not so. Let my denial l)e emphasized. 
 
1(» PEN PICTURES 
 
 I will place OIK' thousaiid dollars as a forfeit — a like amount 
 l)eiiiL;' placed for the same ])ur])ose 1)\' aii\ taker of the oppos- 
 ite faith — t'hat i can instruct a selected l)o\- aho\e fourteen 
 years of a^e, resident of the cotton States, within a course 
 of thirt\- days, so that he will he ahle to class one hundred 
 l)ale^ < if cotton l)^• the side of ari\- e\])ert cotton classer, to he 
 k'nown as Classer \o .1, and mit \ar\' fr(im his classing' more 
 than another expert classer to hr kuiiwn as Classer Xo. 2, 
 would \ar_\- on the same Liradin^-. Acceptors to name a county 
 in any one of t'he cotton States from which I am to select a 
 youth — forfeit to he ^ixen 1)\- ri^-htful custodian to the chai"- 
 it\' of his choosiuL^'. dlie sinceritv <if this pro])osition ma\' he 
 hest determined hy applvin^- the test. 
 
 It i> this character of common school countr\- education 
 fliat forms the hasis of this appeal. We ha\e our State com- 
 missioners of Agriculture, our Agricultural colleges and our 
 I'^arm journals. It is to he assumed that officials, faculties 
 and editors are acceptahh ipialitied tor their i"especti\'e lines 
 of \\(irk, hut it may he almost as safely assmued that not one 
 of them, "from Cousin I'ete to Cncle IMe/.." has an\ more 
 knowledge of cotton <j^radino- than if he had been reare<l in the 
 regions of Alaska and had ne\er seen a ])ale of cotton, hrom 
 these -sources we are to e\i)ect hut little, if an\ instruction of 
 this character. .\t L'lemson. .^. ('.. at .\thens, (la., and at 
 Aulnirn. .Ala., small movements ha\e been made to instruct as 
 State Cotton Schools. This system is heli)ful, ])ut it does not 
 meet recpnrements. We the People need that forin of Pro- 
 tection which would he ati'orded hy makini;- Cotton Classing 
 one of the studies to ho included in the Curriculum of our 
 Common Schools. 
 
 Laws should he enacted in each State recpiiriny Superin- 
 tendents and Teachers of our common schools to imder>tana 
 this suljject. It shovdd be tauj^ht in e\-ery school. It would 
 cost l)ut little to put into operation this system of instruction. 
 Teachers could easily ([ualify and both they and the i)upils 
 
STANDARD C( )r'r()\ (iRADl^S 11 
 
 instructed would tind the work pleasiuj^iy interestin,^-. And 
 here let it be said t'hat the aoquirinij and the imparting- of 
 this knowledge is an adaptability fitly belonging- to our Lady- 
 Teachers. Innovation as it may be. only give them the opi:)or- 
 tuuitv, whicli is easv ti> do. and good will follow, .^he whose 
 eve and touch readily finds the <|uality of a fabric would not 
 be slow in gixing the correct grading of an\ sample of cot- 
 ton. A set of sam])les covdd be easily obtained for e\-ery 
 school at a cost too small to be considered, and the acconipany- 
 ing Course of Instruction is a pen picture and explanatory dis- 
 cussion of e\er\- grade to be obtained. With such etjuipment 
 results would attend bearing the fruit of remuneration — yea, 
 return a hundred fold. 
 
 It is not claimed that in a short course of sample study any- 
 one may learn all that pertains to cotton and its commercial 
 travel from the field to the finished product. i'>ut it is reas'.>na- 
 bly^ claimed that the producer may easily learn to grade his own 
 cotton and know its market \'alue. This Protects him and it 
 is enough for him to know. This he should knf)w as easih- 
 and as well as he knows the grades of his pumpkins, peas, 
 corn and other farm produce, or as he knows the relati\e value 
 of any two s])ecimens of li\e stock on 'his farm. Let him ac- 
 quire the s!m])Ie protecti\e knowledge of (irading and leave 
 all else to the Ex])en who comes out of the supposed (liz/.\- 
 labyrinths of mysteryland. 
 
 Bug Under the Chip. 
 
 If it is suspected that other than patriotic motives 
 have inspired t'he writing of this appeal, in other words ;[ 
 it is thought there is a bug under the Chip, in respect to t'he 
 economies do not waste any \aluable time looking for him. 
 Though the question "For Whose Cood," should be answered 
 a thousand times, '"I-'or t'he (k)od of .\11, for the Public (iood," 
 yet it is to be understood, if you so please, that tlie sale of 
 
12 
 
 I'KX I'ICll'kl'.S 
 
 m\ l(itti>ii ( iradiiii^' Lessons ])r( mi])te(l the framin<;- of this 
 a])i)eal. .\ better view for you to take of the inalter. liowever. 
 is to conce<le that the orisjin of Cotton ("iradino- I.essons may 
 he traced to a ruhlie Xeed, and t'hat they cmihl liave been 
 ])re|)are(l without a thought of ])ersonal •.Tain. C'>tlon (irad- 
 ini; sli'udd be tau^lit in the eoiuinon scIio<'!s. as su.t^i^ested. 
 and sooner or hiter it will lie so taui^ht. 'i'lie Cotton Slate 
 'hat stands first in this line (^f le.q'islation will have just cause 
 to feel ])rou(l of her proj^ressixe step. lUit if it is t'lK^uiiht 1)_\ 
 You the People, or by You the Representatives of the Peop'e 
 that luv bui^- under the chi]) should be killed and kept dead 
 at an annual cost to the country of Twenty-Five Million Dol- 
 lars, perhaps the wiser statesnianshi]) will be to oi^e no en- 
 couraLi'ement to (iradins;' Lessons, and ^et in line with that 
 ijreat tinancier who s]ioke so broadly about the condemnation 
 of common folk>. 
 
 A direct a])perd will be made to the sexeral lei^islatures i>\ 
 the Cotton .States to enact laws uiion this (piestion. .\s the\' 
 nia\ res])on(l. so will the i)eople be profited. Let every resident 
 of the I'otton .States become acti\e. T^et every one in Citv and 
 C'ountr\- ur,L;e that the weal of the whole i)eo])le l)e ^^uarded 
 that his |)ersonal interests ma\- thereby be i)r(Tmote(l. 
 
 l\es|)ectful!\' submitted as a fit acconi])anyinQ- chapter t> 
 mv sexeral work-s on Cotton Crradinq". 
 
 N. T. McArthur. 
 
STANr>ARi) ro'i^rox ckadi-.s 
 
 ABOUT PREPARATION FOR STUDY. 
 
 If a full board of samples could I)c had for use in connec- 
 tion with this lessou. it would be better for the student. 
 If onh- one sani])le of each of the seven full grades could be 
 kept in tlie class room bef(.)re students, comprehension of the 
 interxeniuL; and surrounding- half and (piarter grades, as de- 
 scribed in "Pen Pictures," would be much facilitated. As 
 no real exhibit of sami)les could possibly accompany this 
 work, as a part thereof, an imaginary exhibit has been i)re- 
 >ented. The language and arrangement of the lessons ])rovi(le 
 for either a real or a supposed exhibit. In case of a su])i)osed 
 exhil>it, tlie lessons becouie purely theoretical, though the 
 theoretical l)ecomes practical as soon as real cotton is placed 
 before the student. lUit why, in this land of cotton should 
 poverty of supply exist? In au}' cotton warehouse in a cottou 
 territory a partial, if not a full set of sani])les may be easily 
 procured, and if not there, they may l)e obtained at small cost 
 trom other sources. As they may be had l)ot1i easily and 
 cheap, a full set of types should be ke]U before the student as 
 he studies their minute descri])tion gi\en herein. Procure 
 your cotton samples wdiereyer it may be conxenient. of known 
 or unknown grades. Examine each tyi)e carefully and look 
 in Pen Pictures for its descri])tion. You will find it described 
 and its Grade named. These Pictures \ou can soon transfer 
 to your mind, and then uhereyer you fnid cotton and what- 
 ever cotton you mav tind \-ou will know its t-rade. 
 
LESSONS BEFORE CLASS. 
 
 CHAPTER I, 
 
 Assuming- tliat you arc familiar with the •)r(Kluct as a ticld 
 or«i|), we will discuss the varied cunditinns t.f cotton in its 
 intermediate position, that is. between the held and the loom 
 or factory. I will take the place of instructor, and vou will 
 interrogate, asking such questions as my answers mav sug- 
 gest, or that may otherwise present themselves U) you. Wni 
 may ])roceed now with }()ur (piestion!:ig. 
 
 Q, What is the subject-name (tf the ])ro])<)sed discussion? 
 
 Ans. Cotton (irading or COtton Classing. 
 
 Q. What is its scope, or what utilit\' is embraced in this 
 subject ? 
 
 Ans. it sets out and names the varied conditions just re- 
 ferred to. And cotton coming under the class condition of an\- 
 particular grade is so named. 
 
 Q. Why is it so graded? 
 
 Ans. To separate into parts or parcels, according to con- 
 dition, for commercial distinction, so that relative valties ma\' 
 be assigned. ( )ur sul)ject, as we will discu.-s it. embraces in 
 detail these conditi<uis and se])arations. 
 
 Q. Into how many grades has cotton been classed fo-- 
 Commercial rating? 
 
 Ans. Into about thirty distinct classitioations. ( )f these 
 there are seven full grades, seven half grades, and six quarter 
 grades. 
 
 Q. Since these do not make all of the named numi>er. 
 what other grades are comprised? 
 
 Ans. ( )ther distinct grade names, a dozen or mcM-e in num- 
 ber, refer to the color condition of the luill,, iialf and Ouart^M" 
 Grades. 
 
 Q. What are the names of these grades^ 
 
 Ans. They will be taken up separately, and as their charac- 
 
Ki • I'F.X I'lr'IT'KF.S 
 
 tcr iir (lisiinctioii i:^ ci )nsiderc(l and tletined, to each its name 
 will he assif^ned. Vou will later he furnished a list of the 
 tirade names as they ai)pear consecutix elv. 
 
 Q. W hat is the hasis i)f these distinctions? 
 
 Ans. It is the leiij^th, strength, and core, or diameter, of 
 .the til)er. to which is gixen the general name of staple. As 
 this sia])Ie or body, may he g"ood or bad. and as it mav be 
 white, or colored by shadings, tinges and stains, or as it may 
 he attected by scaling, impurities so it is ctniimerciallv 
 graded. 
 
 Q. \\ hat are the impurities to which vou refer? 
 
 Ans. They are trash, sand and motes. 
 
 Q. What is trash and its character of impurity? 
 
 Ans. Trash is usually a showing of broken cotton 
 leaves, boll shucks, grass stems and other dried foliage and 
 vegetal)le matter tiiat mav bec(»me mixed with the cotton. 
 The cotton leaf is the i)rincipal form of trash, and the tiner 
 the particles or parts inte) which it is cut or broken l)v the gin- 
 ning ])rocess, the greater the {percentage of damage. I will 
 later show you the relatixe damaging character of the forms of 
 leaf trash. 
 
 Q. What of sand, and how as an im])urity does it affect 
 Cotton? 
 
 Ans. Sand is sometimes lifted into the open bolls l)y 
 str(^ng winds, but the great bulk of the santl found in cotton, 
 is that which adheres to locks of cotton that, after having 
 fallen out of the burr, are picked up from the ground. Sand 
 ' adds to the weight i>f cotton and injures machinery at the 
 mills. Cotton carrying much sand is expected to bear an ac- 
 conij)anying (piota of trash and stain. 
 
 Q. What are motes.'' 
 
 Ans. Motes or neps are knotty de\elopments of immature 
 cotton that pass in wlnde seed form through the gin — or they 
 may be seed ends and parts of seed hulls, cut into the mass 
 .of lint bv too close, or sharj) ginning. The latter kind 
 
Sr.WDARI) C'O'I'TOX CKADES 
 
 17 
 
 is known as shell nujtfs ancl is usually accompanied by gin 
 cul or a (loul)le cultini;- of the fiber by the ^in. A trace or 
 small showing- of motes ma_\- be f()und in nearly all grades of 
 cotton, but motes in ([uantity are highly injurious. J'hev in- 
 terlock with the general mass of hber and become insepara- 
 ble. 
 
 Q. You refer to stain as a damage, why did v<ni not include 
 it witli impurities? 
 
 Ans. All forms of damage are to be considered im])urities, 
 l)ut stains and tinges are color conditions. The strength of 
 the fiber is usually not aft^ected by the ordinary foliage stain. 
 The pod end or burr-sink stain has passed the stage of decom- 
 position. It would clear or shake out in the carding process, 
 but the pod of fibers to wdiich it belonged would be shortened 
 and injured." 'I'his character of stain is not found in the bet- 
 ter grades to any harmfid extent. It is easily recognized when 
 found in the lower grades. ( )il stain is the result of crushed 
 seed and is rarely found in baled cotton. It is sometimes 
 developed from the fatty ends that ])ass out with the ginned 
 cotton, but more frecpientl}- it follows the crushing or these 
 seed ends by mill machinery, it is glue-like in its nature and 
 its origin, seed motes is considered a damaging impurity. 
 There is another kind of oil stain that follf)ws the heating and 
 sweating of damp cotton in the seed. The exuding (^il. in- 
 stead of making a yellow stain, as with the crushed seed 
 l)asses unift)rmly into the txxly of tht filler, and gi\es to it a 
 l>luisli tinge. Tf this decaying process is arrested in time 
 and the cotton is dried and ginned, a sample will show in most 
 instances, a dead sta])le of bluish tinge and mustv odor; if 
 the strength of the fiber has been |)reserved. it may be graded, 
 but if the fiber shows the efi:'ect of rot, it is to l)e classed dam- 
 aged. Frost stain is a cold blight afl:"ecting only late imma- 
 ture cotton. Its j)resence indicates a weak staple bod\ . 
 
 Q. Are the general points of grading end)raced in the 
 
)8 
 
 VKS IMCTl'RES 
 
 ltn_L;lh and str(.'ii.L;tli of tlic liber, its color, and its ciniditinn as 
 to iini)uritics .•' 
 
 Ans. Tliis is all that is to he considered in Ljradini; cotton, 
 except the items of water daniaj^e. |)reparation. and ine(|na]it\ 
 of tiher len-th. 
 
 Q. [low does water damai^e manifest itself ?- 
 
 Ans. W ater damai^e is simply rotten cotton. I he weltini; 
 ])rocess is the onl\ means of hrim^inL;' cotton to a condition of 
 rot — deca\ . CCtton in hale as in the seed le\])lained) ma\ 
 hecome heated and damaged ti' the extent of ha\ im4' its \i- 
 talit\' (elasticit\ ) destroyed, and yet ha\e a commercial value. 
 The extent of ihi^ damas^e is to he estimated hy the classer. 
 The mere wetting' of cottim. followed h\- immediate e\ apora- 
 tion. does not affect its market value. 
 Q. W 'hat is InecpialitN as ai>plied to L^radin^? 
 
 Ans. .\s the word imi)lies. it is a diti'erence in the length 
 of the fibers coin])osin<; a hulk of cotton. To the awra^e 
 grower (though he should he wisei") all cotton is coUon. re- 
 gardless of its color or staple. lie mixes pickings from his 
 hest lands with the ])oorei" (pialily gathered from thinner soils. 
 I'netpially de\eloi)ed crops of the same openiui^' or jiickini^" 
 or the natui"al \ar\ in^- de\elopment ot ditterent openings are 
 often thrown to.L^ether. This ^i\es the result ol Inecjuality. It 
 graded !)y the l)ulk of the shorter stai)le e'ement, a cut '-r dis- 
 cr)unt would l)e made in tiie i^rade on account of this mixture. 
 Manufact urei^s regard une(puil hher leuL^th as ;i purchase to h:- 
 a\'( tuiecl. 
 
 Q. What is to he understoiKJ ])y Trej^arati' m ? 
 
 Ans. In a general sense it includes the met'hoc's of ^ather- 
 iuQ- and snhsecpient ettects from prohahle exposure, hut its 
 especial a])])licat ion refers to tlu' process of Liinnin^. compress- 
 iuL; and wi'appiuL;. 
 
 Q. \\ h\- is cotton graded accordim.; to color.-' 
 
 Ans. Cotton is ai)i)reciated l)y manufacturers for its 
 character, as it ma\- .U'ive at least cost throuL^h pr(X-esses of 
 
S'lWXDAKI) COTTOX C.RADl'.S 
 
 1!) 
 
 manntacture, the hii^hcst Li'rade of finished ])ro(hu-l. The whit- 
 er the cotton the nearer it a])])roaehes ])erfect uniformity. 
 Tliis uniformity is maintained in the ])rocess of l)leaeliin!4'. and 
 notwitlistandini^- the ehiim that some of tlie tinj^es and stains 
 are easil\- eliminated, extra e\i)ense is in\dl\ed. and the ab- 
 sence of uniformity is feared. 
 
 Q. Does this lack of uniformity a])])ear following the 
 d\ein^- processes .■' 
 
 Ans. That it does not oi- mav not is due to treatment 
 inxdKiuL;' extra expense and to a thorou.Li'h mixing- of the tiher 
 l)efore manufacture. 
 
 Q. I'.efore i)roceedin;..; further will you attain explain fully 
 the .general conditious named affecting" the characlei" of cot- 
 ton as they may he applied in ^radini^? 
 
 Ans. ^'es : hut I will do this in a se])arate lesson. 1 will 
 therein discuss, in a general re\ie\v. all the points ot ^radim.: 
 l)re\iousl\- ])resented and 1)\- this repetition pre])are you better 
 to coiujjrehend the imaginary sample exhibit, t}pe by ty , 
 as the\- are unfolded to \(>ur iiuaL^inatiou. 
 
CHAPTER 11. 
 
 A Discussion of Impurities, Stains, Trash and Other Demer- 
 its. 
 
 hi (.'iitcriiii;- ui)(iii lliis sc])aratc (liscu-^sinn nf I iii]uii"ilifs. I 
 will first consider Stains, sliowinj^ each as it appears as a daiii- 
 a^iiiL^- amMit. and explain its origin, as well as its effect. 1 
 will first present 
 
 Boll Stain and Burr-Sink. 
 
 Boll stain is a sli.^htK' xelhnvish or hrown discdlnratii >n 
 caused h\ rain falling- upon and entering into the oi)en pod 
 of cotton. The coloring" matter of the inner hin^r is ahsorbed 
 h\- the outer presented surface of the encl<)sed cotton, and 
 this stain is the result. In niinimnni (piantities it may he 
 seen in the finest i^rades of cotton. I'.oll stain is to he founil. 
 therefore, more or less in the whole descent of grades. This 
 stain is not to he confounded with the llun^-siid; stain. 
 th()u,L;h hoth result from similar cause^. The r.urr-Sink slain 
 is the dee])-seated deca\ed end of a lock or section of the boll 
 of cotton, caused 1)\- water si|)einL;' to that position and there 
 remaining till a sticky cemcntiu}.;- form of decomposition is 
 hrou,L;ht into action. The llnrr-sink stain, where it ap])ears in a 
 sample exhibit, indicates that one of the several locks of cotton 
 in its produciuL; l)oll has been shortened. This slK)rtenin,L;' has 
 for its effect. Inequality of fiber length, and thouo-h the feath- 
 ery-like stain is easily beaten out oj the i^eneral mass, and is 
 therefore compaialively harmless as a stain, where it is seen 
 in (piantity. the element of Inequality is to be substituted 
 as a i^rade reducing factor. 
 
 Foliage Stain. 
 
 |-\dia!je .Stain, next to be descriljed, in its milder forms. 
 
STAXOARI) COTI'OX CRADKS iM" 
 
 has I)C-on included witli lloll Stain. l)nt there is a niarkeiF 
 distinction in tlieir eftect res])ecti\ely, as the dej^ree of ^reat 
 magnitude is ai)i)roache(l l)y eacli. Iixat^^.^a^rated lloll Stain 
 or its continuous formation wouhl ])r(K]uce l)urr rot, and a 
 consequent damage to tlie enclosed l)ol]. As Foliage Stain 
 is only t'he colored washings from the cotton leaf. the~-e drip- 
 pings upon the open holl dry away and leaxe a stain which' 
 has not affected the length or strength of the fiber. The col- 
 oring- matter is originated l)y a ])uncturc of the cotton leaf, 
 coming- from the feeding mouths of in>ects. nearlv in\isil)lc 
 in form, that may be foimd feasting thereon These cut inter 
 the tissue of the leaf and. as state(h rain wasliings are colored. 
 g-iving" the result of l-idiage .Stain. W'liile entomologists and 
 i^otanists are left to harnu)ni/.e their \ ar\'ing o])inions as to 
 w'hether Cotton Rust is a constitutional troulde coming from 
 a diseased stalk body or whether it is caused 1)\- mu]ti]>lied 
 millions of foliage feeding fungi, we will pass on to results in 
 the form of stain anrl in imagination view g^reat fields of open- 
 ing cotton that ha\e been overspread by this blight. As the 
 Rust works its devitalizing- force, gentle rains may ])roduce 
 the above described effects till almost every fiber of de\elo]X'rr 
 cotton in those fields will bear the marks of Foliage Stain. 
 The staple bod}- would remain unaff'ected b}- this great dyeing 
 of stain, and if cotton of t'his kind should show freedom front 
 other imimrities it would be gi\-en a gorjd commercial classi- 
 fication. 
 
 Oil Stain. 
 
 Oil Stain propt'r. is the stain caused by crushed seed in the 
 lint before ginning. It is of a greenish yellow cast and is eas- 
 ily distinguished from other stains. The circuTiistances wouhf 
 be indeed peculiar that would furnish a ]>ale of cotton aft'ected 
 throughout by crushed seed Oil Stain. As a damaging imi>ur- 
 ity its appearance in cotton at t'he factory i< regarded a- being 
 
ri':.\ I'lcTL'RKs 
 
 alnmsl C(|ual t > a similai' distrihutioii of ordinary imicilanx' of 
 a like i|uaiUitv. It j^iiies the tihers together in sucli manner 
 that tlie\- art- not easily se])arate(l. This stain is rarely f(Tun(l 
 in a cotton exhibit. I'.n.t a nice stainless exhibit may carry 
 Concealed, in the form of fatty seed ends or whole seeds, the 
 ( )il Stain so much to l)e dreaded. As these pass t'hrou.^h the 
 mill machinery they are crushed and the exuding- oil becomes 
 absorbed by the surrounding;- fibers. Oil Stain, therefore, is 
 not to l)c looked for. onlv as a se(|uent of patent causes. When 
 these described causes are found in an exhibit, they are to be 
 rated as Oil Stain. Seed Oil Stain is the effect of dampness 
 causinj.;' its deca\. T'he process of decomposition of the com- 
 pact mass of stoi-ed <Iamp ct)tton begins with the seed and 
 the first step of dissolution is a partim;' witli the oil they con- 
 tain. This oil, as if cognizant (>\ the tact that a new home 
 must be found in place of the decayinj^ shell it has occupied, 
 lie'^in^ t( I distribute it.>elf e\'enl\ to the adjacent fiber. It is us- 
 ualh (luriu;.;- this process of distribution that the cotton is 
 shaken up, aired, dried out and L^inned. ( )ne certain result is a 
 t^eneral seed-sweat coloring of a combined yellow and bluish 
 tint. A second result is that the fiber, though chart;ed with 
 oil seems (le\italized. and it is this ])rincii)le of absent \italitv, 
 as it i> more or less to be noted, that determines how much 
 lias l)een the loss sustained b\ a cotton that has ])assed throus^h 
 this process. The stages ran^e from a sli^luK colored, lii^htlv 
 atiected fiber, to the opposite extreme of dee]i tinqe and nuistx' 
 ■ilecay. Discoloratiou is the most frecpient appearinq- damage, 
 but an occasional dea<l stock' of hber is to ])e found in briqhter 
 <.'xhibits. .\s lonq as the locking or intertwining twirl remains 
 the hber is qood. w'hen this f|uality of life is absent, the fiber 
 is to be condemned. .\ mere no\ice could determine the differ- 
 ence I»etween !i\e and dead cotton, that is, know upon exami- 
 nation whether tlie samjde exhibit was li\e and showed the 
 spiral twirl, or was devoid of this principle. 
 
STA xi ).\ R I ) c( )'rT( )x ( ;radks 2:1 
 
 Frost Stain. 
 
 All bolls of any late crop that are nipped 1)\- frost before 
 Tuaturitv or before opeiiino-. show its blighting- effect. If the 
 frost is severe it reduces some of these ycjunger bolls to a 
 watery ])ulp. ( )thers a little older escape this extreme, but 
 <)])en only in the form of hardened enclosed pods. Others still, 
 w'hicli are nearer mature, react from the chill and open under 
 effect of a warming' sunshine. It is this process of reaction 
 that causes the inner i)arts of the burr to dye or stain the 
 pod of fiber This character of stain is easily distinguished 
 and indicates not only a short and immature fiber, but a weak 
 staple. If such late pickings should be mixed in any apprecia- 
 ble ])rop()rtion with better cotton t'he whole is reduced in 
 i^rade thereb}-. If a part of the middliiii;' croj) should be j^ath- 
 ered with this Frost Crop, it would fall below the classifica- 
 tion of Low Middling- I-'ollowinti;' this fact, the half <iTade, 
 Strict Good Ordinary, is only a lower Low Middling, the body 
 of which is sup])Osetl to have a high character of strength, 
 therefc^re, if anv weakness of staple should show as a result <if 
 the mixture. Good Ordinary would be its highest grade mark. 
 This, however, does not ])oint the limit ot descent, as a pre- 
 dominating proportion of Frost Stained cotton in a mixture 
 that also carries other damaging demerits might he borne down 
 therel)v below the scope of commercial estimate. 
 
 Mildew. 
 
 This forni of defect is ])atent to any observer wherever it 
 appears. It needs no particular description. A bale of cotton 
 may become rotten on a ])art of its surface, and still have its 
 interior sound. To separate these properly requires only the 
 discriminating judgment of any careful examiner. 'Iliis stain 
 has also been called Fungoid, so named from the scientific 
 causes attributable t<j vegetable decay. 
 
24 PENTMCrrRES 
 
 Hoop Stain. 
 
 Hoop Stain is tlie result of (lama_<;in_<;' expdsure tn water, ci- 
 tlicr from rains or from contact with tlic earth. Wliether 
 from mist, sjjrav or rain, it is eas\- to jud^e liow much cot- 
 ton of a hale may he so damayed. If the jacket or cover 
 should show si^ns of rot. a critical examination of the hale 
 should he made, as an interior damage mi^^ht possihly he 
 traced from these indications. A cli)selv com])ressed water- 
 packed hale of cotton kept in a damji ])lace would show Hoop 
 Stain, as it might also show a hadly (lania,L;ed interior. 
 
 Soil Stain. 
 
 Soil Stain is a coloring or shading imparted to cotton hy 
 loadings of dust gentK- deposited from the surrounding atmos- 
 phere, or more \iolently lifted and carried into the pod from 
 adjacent soils and territory hy stirring \vinds. The dust and 
 soil hearing sand thus deposited ])ermeate the open l)oll, and 
 distrihute an e\en shade of dust-color to all ])arts of the recei\- 
 ing pod. .So insinuative is this form of light dust that it seems 
 to lose its character as dust and to hecome part and parcel 
 of the fiher where it is deposited. If the dust has heen dark a 
 Corresponding shade of ''off color"" will show in the cotton af- 
 fected. It is this shading from dark dust that gixes to the 
 White Grades of cotton, from Good Middling to Low Mid- 
 dling, as it ma\- l)e hut slight or of deep cast, their distinctive 
 features or coni|)lexion. If a deeper shade t'han the face of 
 Low Middling should show on a fairly clean standard staple 
 the color would he jilaced in the category of Tinges. Alt 
 red dust affecting cottr>n in tlie way T have just descrihed, im- 
 parts a reddish color, and all grades so aft'ected are denomina- 
 ted Tinges. Soil Stain as a result of storm or wind heaten 
 cotton coming in contact with the soil direct is colored ac- 
 cordiu"- as the soil mav he colored. This field stain does not 
 
STAXDARD COTTi ).\ (;RA1)I-:S 25 
 
 affect tlie cotton only at and near the j^oints (>f contact. In 
 consequence the stains are not t^eneral, but appear in spots an<l 
 "splotches." and .c;i\'e as an out])ut the various ,|i;ra(linii"> ti'oin 
 the highest Stain to the lowest mark of Stains and Tinges, ac- 
 cording as the sta])le body may be otherwise varyingly af- 
 fected. l'"ormerly a large percentage of the adhering sand 
 went with ihc mass of cotton through the gin and into the 
 bale, but modern im])ro\ed methods of clearing fntm sand at 
 the gin ha\e in a great measure, eliminated sand as an im- 
 purity to be found in grading: \ct it must l)e looked for. and if 
 by excei)tion to the rule it should appear, it must l)c measured 
 first as to its estimated weight and secondly as to its injury 
 to machinery at the mills. In e\ery grade of cotton, from the 
 highest to the lowest, small particles of grit or sand arc to be 
 found. Imwever. it is onl}' where sand is found in larger 
 ([uantity that it is to be considered an impurity. 
 
 Tinges. 
 
 Natural tinges arc little to be considered by the classcr. 
 \ ariety. soil, sunshine and atmosphere are agents pr«Kluciug 
 many different natural tinges. The Brown Egyptian, the 
 Red Peruvian, the Yellow Sea Island and our own <lightly 
 reddish Tinge found on the red fields of the Uplands cotton 
 belt could none of them be produced except in their present 
 known indigenous soils iiu^] atmosp'heres. ( )f these it is only 
 necessary to speak of: 
 
 Uplands Natural Red Tinge 
 
 T'liis Tinge is with difficulty distinguished fioui the Red 
 Tinges i)ro(luced by dust discoloration. Its color is of a clear, 
 pinkish red and is only yielded in the higher grades- I'reak- 
 ish as it may appear, the same stalks that f|ield a Good Mid- 
 dling grade of Natural Red Tinge, would produce a later crop 
 of White Middling. Ju grading we can only apply the law 
 
2(i PEN PIC'rL'RES " ' 
 
 !;■( iNcTiiiiiL;' as ti> tiiiii'es, i;i\'ini4' to it the l)cncht of all douhttui 
 
 |)iiim> lit i;i-;ule merit. The eream colored cotton of the hiii"h 
 
 .grades is also a Natural Tinge, hut it is graded as a White 
 J)]"! iduct. 
 
 Red Tinge. 
 
 All Soil Stain, ha\in!4 red dust as a ])ro(lucii)^- cause, is 
 i^raded as a Red Tinge. It co\ers the entii'e list of commer- 
 cial L^i'ades. In determining; any ^rade the same law that ti'ov- 
 erns where there is no tim^e is to he ohser\ed. h'xcept, how- 
 ex er. that a tinned j^radin^u; will carr\ a slight addition of im- 
 ])uritie^ aho\e that made for a con-espondinj^' White cotton. 
 'i"i)o i.;reat a diti'erence in assigned \alue is supposed to he the 
 hasic reason for this allowance. 
 
 Dark Tinge, 
 
 Ai^ain 1 will refei' you to m\- remarks concerning;' Soil Stain. 
 Therein I told you that it was this .shading; of I )ark Tin^e that, 
 in i)art. L;a\e complexion to the Grade Face of all the Gradings, 
 from Good Middling to Low Middling- I did not include the 
 tirades of Good Ordinary and Strict Good Ordinary for the lea- 
 son that, t houL^h it mii;ht in certain instances he aptl\ a])plied, 
 other stains and tinges are more fre(pientl\ found. After 
 dealing- with these coloring's in that way we ma\- take all soil- 
 stains aho\ e that of a Low Middling in shade and class them 
 as Dark Tinges. A i)o])ular prejudice against thi^ ""Off Color" 
 -kee])> it in tlie lower grades of Tinges, Middling Tinged he- 
 ing ahi'Ut the highest limit allowed. A mud(h appearing e\- 
 hihit of otherwise good cotton has heen classed locallv, in 
 name a- '"( )nly a Xigger." and in merit, exerywhere. it is 
 held down to ihe Lower Middling Grades. 
 
 Smoke Tinge 
 
 It i^ not impossihlc for the i)articles of coloring matter in 
 
STAXDAKD C( )'I"'I"()X (iR.\l)l<:S 27 
 
 smoke to he wafled a distance as i^reat as tliat from I'itts- 
 burgh in Pennsylvania to tlie cotton fields of Western Texas 
 and Oklahoma Mid-ocean is said to have its smok\ days. 
 These particles of coal smoke from ditterent points often 
 unite, and form ^reat blanket-like clouds and in settling- form 
 a dark deposit on all material at the point of descent. lM>r 
 ■whole seasons, clouds such as these follow in succession and 
 reg'ulated b}- some unexplained law. settle in the same terri- 
 tory. More, the axenues of transit seem so routed that an- 
 nual \isitations of this kind succeed their precedin:^' lead 
 until we ha\e a fixed territory from which we ma\- expect to 
 receixe cotton t<» he graded as a Smoke Tinge. This territor\ 
 includes a broken or irrej^ular section, traxersino- the entire 
 cotton belt, and included between t'he hill breaks al)o\e t<» 
 points within fifty or sixty miles of the sea-coast. There ma\- 
 be long- gaps in the line of its a])pearance. but where\er found 
 it is the same, and traceable to the same character of cause. 
 Smoke Tinge is graded just the same as Dark Tinge. 
 (jrowers have attributed this Tinge to local causes, such as 
 having fields approximate to smoking furnaces, and near where 
 many locomotixes ])ass- It is ])ossible thus to discolor a field 
 of cotton without conllict with the general accepted law. 
 wdiich T ha\e just set out. 
 
 Blue Puff. 
 
 . Blue Puff or Smutty Puff as it is sometimes termed, is 
 caused by gathering the whole pod together wdierein t'here is 
 or may be a perished and decayed lock of cotton, niight of 
 this kind is often found in a field and one Ixdl tluis affected 
 to each fifty taken is sufficient to blacken the whole combina- 
 tion. This tinge or stain sometimes shows in limited tpianti- 
 ties and is then to be estimated as a stain affecting the general 
 Sample Exhibit. lUit if the tinge shows t<J be general, coloring 
 the whole body of cotton presented, the cott(~)n must be placed 
 on a low grading, as low, at best, as Low Middling Tinged. 
 
28 I'KN I'lCrURIOS 
 
 Trash. 
 
 \\c now come to consider Trash in its place as an Impurity. 
 I'dliaue trash, tluit is, leaf and boll shuck crumhlin^s. com- 
 prise the principal forms of trash ft)und in cotton. Dry 
 weeds and <^i'ci-^'^t"s may he in cotton where such trash is per- 
 mitted to orow to matnritv in the fields from which it has 
 heen talNcn. h'olia^e ti"ash. ( inclndini;- the boll shuck) is more 
 dama^iuL; in its broken ])arts. as it is crushed into small or 
 tine pieces. The finer ])arts are known as Pepper Trash. 
 
 I'epper Trash has usualh a dimension e(|ual to from one 
 thirty-second to one->ixteent li of an inch diameter. The 
 smaller dust-like j)articles that sometimes mar the face of an 
 exhibit, are sim])le forms of dust that may be shaken out ea.^- 
 il\ in the processes of cleaning'. A mere casual examination 
 will show a distinctixe difference in these foi'.us of imv^uri- 
 ties. With the re^idar foliage Pepper Trash the fiber em- 
 braces these small parts in its mesh like hold, and it is next 
 to im])ossible to effect their release. Larger bodies r)f leaf 
 trash, sometimes desii^nated bleak trash, are not so difficult 
 to remo\e. The locking- fiber cannot s^rasp them in their en- 
 liret\' as is the case with the intermediate forms and the still 
 smaller pepper trash. ( )l course the (puintity of this trash as 
 well as its (piality is to be considered in grading. 
 
 Cotton ^ets its loading of trash frecpiently through careless- 
 ness of the gatherer, but often proxidential causes render sucli 
 loadini;s una\()i<lab!e. A tield of open cotton ma\ be o\'er- 
 run b\- feeding- worms The result is, the worst forms of lit- 
 ter and trash are cut into the open bolls and se])aration would 
 be a task too great to be undertaken. Again, cotton and de- 
 caved foliage from the stalk, and all other dried \egetation 
 might be driven 1)\' winds and storms into an incongruous mix- 
 tiu^e of cotton and trash. The cotton must be sa\etl an<l not 
 unusualh' after being cleaned as carefully as ])ossible it shows 
 a loading 'jf trash I'liat ])laces it below the scoi)e of commercial 
 
STAXDAKI) C'OT'l^OX CKADF.S 29 
 
 i^radiiii^. As to the ciinount of trash allowahlc in different 
 •g-rades. 1 will take the subjeet uj) in this phase, in a separate 
 KTonsideration of the list of o-rades to he exhibited. 
 
 Motes or Neps. 
 
 L'nder the name of Motes, nearly all of the impurities fol- 
 .lowin^" upon batl ginniny have been grouped. Whole seeds, 
 broken parts of seeds, seed ends and the fibers that become 
 .separated from the general mass to wind themselves about the 
 heavier forms of trash, in fact all tibered masses detached from 
 the smoother layer (jf the main body are to be designated 
 Motes. These fibered masses may be cleared by the clean- 
 ing ]jrocesses at the mills, but such separation involves the 
 probable loss of other fibers or ])arts of fibers to be caught uf* 
 in the severance. This latter ]M"obal)ility leads us to presup- 
 ]jose the introduction of broken and shortened fibers into the. 
 ■cleared mass, by w'hich it \vt)uld be to some extent reduced in 
 xalue. As to whole seeds and fatty seed ends 1 have just pre- 
 >ente(l this phase of Motes in my discussion oi Oil Stain. 
 Motes are considered hea\y impurities and because of their 
 tenacity to the bod\- of fibers about them, they have been 
 classed to t'hat extent. Inseparable. A small trace of Motes, an 
 occasional immature seed, and the shell or sjjHi hull also, as 
 incidentals, may be found in the higher grades. Uut 
 Motes indicate bad ginning and when fomid in (piantit\ are 
 usuall\- accompanied by gin cut. Therefore where Motes are 
 found as a prominent imi)urity cotton is to be ])lace(l in the 
 lower grades. 
 
 Sleek Heads. 
 
 Unripe and Dead fibers are to be found iii all grades of cot- 
 ton. If only a trace or small showing is presented. the\' are 
 to be regarded harmless, but as their number or (piantit\' in- 
 .creases. thev begin to call for recognition as a damai>in<> fea- 
 
■Ai) 
 
 PEN PICTURES 
 
 turc. An\- cause that would 'liindcr the (lc\ cl< i])nient of a holl 
 (if cotton, or cxfti one lock as a part of a l)oll. would ;^i\e the 
 result of half ripe, or as it niit^ht be dead tiher. I'dl^ht. such 
 as rust or black root produces, mii^ht fall Ujxtn a field, carrying" 
 with its larg-er part of fuUv luatured bolls a fair percentage of 
 half-rii)e as well as less de\-eloped l)olls, the i^reater number ot 
 which would open, either w'holly, or partially, but sufficiently 
 to be gathered and mixed with the mass of full ri])ene(l fiber. 
 In such a mixture we should see nund)ers of little thread-like 
 fibers which had n<^t fleeced out as they left the oin and which 
 would now curl u\) into somethiuf.;' like the form of an inter- 
 rogation point, as the\' would ])resent themsehes in the general 
 ])t)d\- of the fiber for observation. Aj^ain niiiiht be seen num- 
 bers of small riattened sul)stances encased in the sleek folding 
 of the immature part of t'he producinj;' burr, for this is cotton 
 to which has adhered the oi'i^inal pulp\- part of the burr, tliat 
 had fallen far short of maturitw These showins^s woidd lose 
 in measure of both leni^t'h and strength as compared with the 
 t^^eneral mass of the b(xl\- bearing" them. As a result the fea- 
 ture of lne(pialit\' is presented to be estimated in ^radin^. 
 accordino- to the (uiantitv exhibited 
 
 Gin Cut. 
 
 'I'his feature of demerit has been referred to in so man\ 
 instances that it must be already well understood. It is the 
 severed parts of fiber divided into two or more lem^ths b\ tiie 
 jjin as it may be too sharj) or i^iven loo hii^h a rate of s])eed. 
 By the ])resent mode of distributinj.;' the cotton of a single bale 
 to a system of a half do/.en or more .^ins. all moxino- at the 
 same rate of speed, but no two. perhaps, regulated alike as to 
 cutting- capacity, it is remarkable that i;in cut is not more 
 j^fenerally encountered. It is unfortunate that the 'oni.;er sta|)led 
 cotton suffers most from this double cutting-. It is relieving, 
 liowever. to know that where only a few saws of one of a 
 iari^e svstem of i^ins ma\' i)robabh- be doinq this disastrous 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 31 
 
 work, the proportional part of Gin Cut falls to a consequent 
 lower percentag"e of the whole. Gin Cut is a bad form of 
 Inequality. It shows in a Sample Exhibit with the cut parts 
 lying- across the even general layer or standing out like the 
 bristles of an angered animal. As before stated, in a small 
 way. it appears in all saw-ginned C(3tton. but where it is fi)Uiid 
 in marked (juantity the grading descends accordingly. 
 
 Gin Roll. 
 
 Gin Roll is the rope like mass of wet cotton w'hich does not 
 leave the gin freely and is twirled into this form by t'he pro- 
 cess of clearing the saws. It does not affect the value of the 
 fiber but its presence usually points to Gin Cut. 
 
 Water Pack. 
 
 Cotton that has been ginned and compressed in an ex- 
 tremely wet (or steamed) condition is classed Water Packed- 
 If by any means the avenues of evaporation should become 
 closed and the included compressed air should firul no means 
 of escape, fermentation would follow and rot would be the 
 result If the Cotton has been "wet down" between the gin 
 and the press, with the view of increasing weight, the damp- 
 ness would be less generally distributed and, as a sequence 
 of concentrated puddling, decay would be more probable. 
 Much depends upon the age of the bale or the length of time 
 intervening betw^een the date of packing and that of its exami- 
 nation by a classer. If the bale is presented fresh from the 
 press, he should grade with full allowance for the extreme 
 conditions I have mentioned. Ijut if t'he bale had that age 
 which would allow it to present a dry surface, examination 
 by deep boring or cutting would determine its state as to 
 soundness. If no signs of water damage should appear, the 
 cotton would show onlv a slight discount of grade on account 
 of having been Water Packed. Otherwise such damage as 
 
 3 
 
32 PEN PICTURES 
 
 might appear would be estimated by its extent. Water Pack 
 is evidenced by the wavy rolls or ropings on the sides of the 
 compressed bale and by slightly colored lines between the 
 edges of the layers, produced by the emission of water at these 
 points. A sample exhibit from a restored bale of Water 
 Packed cotton has the wrinkled appearance usually to be seen 
 in a fabric that has been washed and left unironed. Water 
 Pack is so rarely found under the present system of prepara- 
 tion, that I will leave the given description as sufificient. 
 
 Flexibility. 
 
 Flexibilty is the elastic principle of cotton that enables the 
 classer to recognize by clasping in the hand the fine or coarse 
 quality of a specimen exhibit. The response to his touch or 
 clasp inforius him c|uickly as to wliether the exhibit is a live, 
 responsive specimen of the higher grades or whether from brit- 
 tleness, roughness and a sleep}- or slow form of elasticity it is 
 to be placed in the intermediate or lower grades The ex- 
 treme contrasts of the features of flexibility may be likened to 
 the difference you would observe in the respective hand clasps 
 of a fresh handed school boy or girl and that of the 'hard 
 handed daily laborer- The vital principles of an exhibit are 
 to be measured mainly by its flexibility, though loadings of 
 trash and other affecting causes serve to reduce t'his quality. 
 
 Inequality. 
 
 If you have followed me closely in this discussion, you 
 have heartl frequent allusion to the character of Inequality. 
 You doubtless know that it means unequal length or strength 
 of fiber In each reference I 'have luade to this condition, I 
 have mentioned the cause producing it. Mixed products from 
 the fields, immature fiber, gin cut and other causes have been 
 discussed, and your acquaintance with the subject should con- 
 sequently be well established. Spinners desire fiber of nearly 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 33 
 
 uniform length. It is known that fibers of distorted length 
 will not run or work out together, and that the cost and an- 
 noyance attending their separation at the mills is reckoned 
 fully equal to the value of the shorter parts extracted. There- 
 fore in an estimate of an exhibit carrying an objectionable 
 quantity of short fiber, its comparative weight with that of 
 the afifected body would be considered a fair amount of loss 
 to be estimated in depreciating its grade. In my published 
 work on Grading, a copy of which you have before you, the 
 full text of this discourse is treated. Read it carefully and 
 you will find therein the full essence of the subject as I have 
 "here treated it orally. 
 
 Note. 
 
 The Author was recently called by its college board to give 
 a short course of Grading Lessons to the graduating class of 
 the Textile Department in one of our Southern Industrial In- 
 stitutions- The foregoing with only a few changes is an exact 
 reproduction of a preparatory address made before that class, 
 in advance of a practical study of the subject to be made by ex- 
 amining and classifying a large array of samples, embracing 
 many times over the full variety of grades. He 'has deemed it 
 fitly appropriate to make it a part of this publication, consider- 
 ing that if it were an exact rehearsal of the matter to be found 
 in The Cotton Grader and Grade Notes, it would be good just 
 at this point in these lessons to emphasize all that is to be 
 found therein. It is published as a part of these lessons and 
 is given the exact position in point of presentation that it had 
 in giving to actual students practical training in a course of 
 cotton grading. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Continuation of Grading Lessons 
 
 Q. We have listened atLeutively ki >uur discourse on cot- 
 kui ami tile various conditions aft'ecting it, and now will you 
 show us in a practical wa} the application of your lecture to the 
 science of cotton classifying? 
 
 Ans. Yes, and to do this I place before you a pivotal or 
 centrally characteristic type of each of the Eighteen Current 
 Commercial Grades, (See Plates.) 
 
 Q. What are the names of t'hese grades? 
 
 Ans. Taken in their descending scale from the highest to 
 the lowest they are named Fair, Strict Middling Fair, Mid- 
 dling i*"air. Strict ( lood Middling, liood Middling. Strict Mid- 
 dling. Middling, .^trict Low Middling. Low Middling, Strict 
 (lOod Ordinarv and (lood (Ordinary. These are known as the 
 White Grades. Then we have Strict Good Middling Tinged, 
 Good Middling Tinged, Strict Middling Tinged, Middling 
 Tinged. Strict Low Middling Tinged, Low Middling Tinged, 
 and Middling stained, all comprising the eighteen Grades 
 mentioned. 
 
 Q. Will you explain the terms "pivotal" and ''centrally 
 characteristic," as you have used them in referring to the 
 types "ijefore us ? 
 
 Ans. These terms refer to the complexion or face color of 
 the tyi)es and to the faces themselves as each may be affected 
 by a dissimilar showing of impurities or bv other peculiar lines 
 of difference. The\ show one ope;ning or face of the sample 
 exhibit only, and from this face, as presented to our view, 
 we are to conclude other openings and faces to be the same. 
 That is, we are to determine the character ()f the grade upon 
 vision, or "How it looks." 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 35 
 
 Q. Is vision alone sufficient? Is appearance an infallible 
 guide to a definite placing of grades? 
 
 Ans. Wliile in the main, any type or grade of cotton may 
 be recognized by its face, verification of a decision so made is 
 established through the sense of Touch. What is known as 
 "body" or staple character, the length and strength of the fiber 
 must be determined by feeling. It is very rare, however, 
 that ''hand examination" fails to coincide with indications pre- 
 sented on the face of a sample exhibit. 
 
 Q. Shall we not be permitted to handle the saiuple exhibit 
 before us ? 
 
 Ans. Continuous handling would so wear the face of a 
 sample that its characteristic features would be changed. It 
 is better, therefore, that we use these only as guide types, pre- 
 serving their faces intact for study and comparison. 
 
 Q. Are the several color casts or grade complexions, and 
 the showing of Impurities as they appear in these types to be 
 accepted as the exact allowance for each of these grades? 
 
 Ans. No; there may be slight variations of both Color and 
 sliowing of Impurities. A little more or a little less of one or 
 both might appear and still fall short of a quarter grade, above 
 or below. This is a law of variance applied in grading, but it 
 is usually found that the variations of Color and Impurities 
 offset each other, an increase of shade being met bv a compen- 
 sating decrease of Impurities. As I have stated, however, 
 t'hese types are centrally characteristic, <>r pivotal, and no 
 graded samples of cotton compared witli them will be found to 
 vary in any significant degree from the faces here displayed. 
 
 Fair. 
 
 Q. What is the first type in the line before us? 
 
 Ans. It is the highest grade of Uplands cotton and is des- 
 ignated Fair. You will see that it is almost purely white and 
 that it is free from all the blemis'hes I have described as Im- 
 
S6 PEN PICTURES 
 
 purities. At the foot of the type I have combed out a mass 
 of fiber which shows a uniform measurement of one and one- 
 eio'hth inches. It is not excessively long' and fine, neither is 
 it coarse and brittle. It is a good specimen of Fair Cotton. 
 
 Strict Middling Fair. 
 
 Q. What is the next type wdiich seems to have exactly the 
 face of the first? 
 
 Ans. It is to be graded Strict Middling Fair. The color 
 and the staple are the same as for Fair, but you have over- 
 looked the particles of trash that show upon close inspection. 
 These reduce it in value to the descending half grade. 
 
 Middling Fair. 
 
 Q. And w'hat is the next of these white types classed? 
 
 Ans. It is typed Middling Fair. You will observe that it 
 is as bright in color as the first grades, although a faint shade 
 of difference would be allowable. The fiber also shows a good 
 character of stai)le. but an increased showing" of trash and trac- 
 ings of stain gives it the low^er grading as typed. 
 
 Q. Do these t'hree types constitute the entire grouping of 
 
 the Fair Grades? 
 
 Ans. Xo : the complete grou}) includes three Quarter 
 Grades; viz.. ( 1 ) Barely Fair, which is a close grading between 
 Fair and Strict Middling Fair; (2) Fully Middling Fair, an 
 intermediate between Middling Fair and Strict Middling Fair, 
 and (8) Barely Middling Fair, a Quarter Grade below Mid- 
 dling Fair. The (Juarter Grades are not at present used in 
 classifying (see date of issue) but a return to this minuter 
 classing may be expected at any time, according" to the whim? 
 or purposes of the American Cotton Exchanges. In this con- 
 nection it is proper here to state that the grade of Middling 
 Fair is llic highest grade now quoted in our domestic market. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 37 
 
 SECOND GROUPING— MIDDLING GRADES. 
 Strict Good Middling. 
 
 Q. We observe a change of color in the next sample ex- 
 hibit. \\^here is it to be placed in the list of Grades? 
 
 Ans. We are next to consider the Grouping of Middling 
 Grades. The type before us is Strict Good Middling. As a 
 grade, generally, it is one of the strongest types of cotton both 
 as to natural condition and cleanliness. It shows often a better 
 body than the higher classed Fair grades, but on account of 
 shade or color it is placed lower in classing. The type under 
 consideration, as you see, is of a rich, whitish cream color; 
 showing too little of the cream cast to be put into the list of 
 tinges, and yet too deep a shade to admit of Fair classiiication. 
 It is comparatively as clean as tlie higher grade of Middling 
 Fair, and its combed fiber shows a strong staple, at least 
 nine-eighths of an inch in length. This type embraces all 
 gradings of this grouping above Fully Good Middling, and as 
 a consequence, classifications of this title oiten show 
 marked degrees of variation. This is explained by the state- 
 ment that a cotton wdiich mig'ht be classed higher than Fully 
 Good Middling (a quarter grade) would be placed in this 
 classing, while, with color debarring, the highest merit could 
 not raise it above the grade of Strict Good Middling. The 
 nan,ie Strict Good Middling implies a higher superior grading 
 of Good Middling. Color is not an arbitrary or ruling charac- 
 teristic of this Grade. The brightest and best bodied types of 
 Fair cotton, if too badly "loaded" with trash, or if they should 
 present other indications of demerit, would be classed down 
 to this Grade. (Note previous remark on this subject.) 
 
 Good Middling. 
 
 Q. We see a very close resemblance of face in the next 
 
38 PEN PICTURES 
 
 type to the one we have just discussed. What is its classifica- 
 tion ? 
 
 Ans. It is to be classed Good Middling. Tlie likeness you 
 have observed could be appropriately termed parental, as this 
 is the basic grade of the type we have just passed, and which 
 on account of its better features as to iminirities, we classed as 
 a Strict Good Middling, thus placing it a half grade higher 
 than the basic grade of Good Middling. ]f not already so un- 
 derstood, I will explain t'hat the term "Strict." when used be- 
 fore any grade name defines that grade as being raised to the 
 middle or highest point in ascent ttnvards the hull Grade 
 above. It is the term used to signify all half grades. Apropos 
 to this explanation I will say that anv commi'rcial name given 
 to a grading of cotton, though it should be designated whole, 
 lialf or quarter, stamps the same as a full type of grading, and 
 it is. therefore, to be estimated as a distinct grade regardless 
 of the distance above or below a basic whole grade. In this 
 typing of Good Middling you observe the same color and fiber 
 length exhil)ited in the j)receding type. It is a basic grade 
 and you should give close attention to the face it presents. 
 You observe two pieces of large or fleak trash (one smaller 
 or intermediate in size, and only a few dottings of the finer 
 parts of "pep])er trash." There are two very small specks of 
 foliage stain to be seen and we may also see indications of 
 immature fiber. These impurities are allowable and the type 
 is to be accepted as a standard Good Middling. I have else- 
 where stated that the cream cast of color frequently found in 
 the Good Middling types is a change or departure in color 
 from the pure white of the first general opening, as it is also 
 different from the paler white of succeeding openings. This 
 does not apply as a universal rule. In many instances this 
 creamv tinge does not appear. Therefore a shade of white 
 falling below Fair may be taken also as the type-color of 
 these grades. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 39 
 
 Strict Middling. 
 
 Q. Now we come to a noticeable change of exhibit. By 
 what name is it to be known ? 
 
 Ans. It is a specimen type of Strict Middling. In its color 
 you see a free white only slightly shaded by dust and stains. 
 Unprotected by the greener and consequently denser foliage 
 which shielded the higher grade openings it shows a slightly 
 lower degree of complexion. Next we notice on its face in- 
 creased showings of both trash and weather stain. This is due 
 to dryer foliage and exposure to rain. We see, also, curling 
 fibers or sleek-heads denoting a small falling off in uniformity 
 of fiber length. This, 'however, does not show to a harmful 
 degree in the combed fiber, which measures above an inch, and 
 appears to be of fairly even length. It can be accepted as a 
 full rounded type of Strict Middling. I will refer you to a 
 characteristic description of this grade to be foimd in "The 
 Cotton Grader." 
 
 Middling. 
 
 Q. What is the type we are next to consider? 
 
 Ans. It is the Grade of Middling. This is the basic or 
 central grade with which all other gradings higher or lower 
 are to be compared for assignment of degrees of variation, 
 better or worse, that a consequent placing of name and value 
 may be determined. It is a knowledge of the character of 
 this grade and an acquaintance with the degrees of departure 
 therefrom that enables the classer to name properly, or ap- 
 proximately near, the entire line of varyings comprising the 
 system of cotton classing. Only know Middling and tlie 
 scheme of grading may be easily comprehended. In this type 
 you see a shading of the complexion which may be described 
 as a "step down" from the type of strict middling- We ob- 
 serve on its face four of the intermediate breakings of fleak 
 trash, besides numerous dottings of sma^'^^r breakings. There 
 
40 ■ PEN PICTURES 
 
 is also a sprinkling of pepper trash which, if we are to be pr.' 
 cise in our estimate, I should say, if generally distributed, 
 would average about four forms to the square inch. There 
 is a single small blur of stain to be seen. Next we see the 
 indications of unripe fiber l)ut not in sufficient (piantity to es- 
 tablish a luarked degree of inequality. Finally as we inspect 
 we note that the combed fiber is a full inch in length, fairly 
 \uniform and of apparent perfect soundness. By comparing 
 with the hig'her grade of strict good middling it is easy to see 
 that its fiber layers are not so evenly presented, and that other 
 graceful features of that type are not fully (^bser\al:)Ie. It is, 
 however, a substantial representation of the great middle bulk 
 of the American uplands cotton crops as they are mnv gath- 
 ered and prepared for market. 
 
 Taking this btdk of output for t'he last quarter of a centurv 
 and we wmdd see that there has been but little change in the 
 appearance oi its face as it reached the factory. Hence the 
 original type of middling has remained unchanged, and it is 
 patently plain that it must so remain — Exchange ruling and 
 Government Standardization to the contrary, notwithstanding, 
 until there is a change in the methods of lu-oducing, gather- 
 ing, ginning and preserving the great central bulk known as 
 Middling- An impro\ed output would give us an improved 
 Middling. I'ntil such time and event middling will be 
 
 Middling. It is not at all improbable that some system of gath- 
 ering by machinerv may be brought into vogue. In such case 
 a lower type of bulk or middling crop might be presented. 
 You are to remend)er that this txpe is gi\en as a central or 
 pivotal sample exhibit of middling. Variations allowable in 
 both color and impurities w ill be discussed in a future refer- 
 ence to this Basic Grade. 
 
 Strict Low Middling. 
 
 Q. What is the type next in line? 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 41 
 
 Ans. It is Strict Low Middling. Its complexion is a de- 
 gree lower than that of Middling- We see also heavier load- 
 ings of trash as well as increased s'howings of stains. This is 
 a later picking of the Middling crop which has been dark- 
 ened by a dust deposit to a shade, placing it below the limit 
 allowable to a Middling Variant. It is also proscribed such 
 entry by its increased quota of Impurities. (Jbserve that the 
 quantity is about double that shown on the face of Middling. 
 Vet its combed fiber shows to be as long and nearly as uni- 
 form as that of the higher grade. The lower shading and in- 
 creased loadings and stains are the natural results of delayed 
 gatherings. 
 
 Low Middling. 
 
 Q, We see that you present one other type of this group, 
 what is this grade? 
 
 Ans. It is Low Middling. As its name implies it is an- 
 other type of Middling Cotton reduced in grade- Observe 
 that its color shows the regular and continuous "step down" 
 in complexion. The increased measure of trash and stains 
 are plainly visible and yet it, too, combs out a fiber only 
 slightly below that of middling, in length and uniformity. I 
 will call your attention especially to the facts that a cotton of 
 this color could not be graded above Low Middling though 
 comparatively clean ; and t'hat a cotton of any brighter color 
 with loadings of the type before us could not be placed above 
 that grade. Yet we find a pivotal type of Low Middling 
 bearing the demerits of both dark color and impurities. This 
 rule will apply to all central or pivotal grades, but we are not 
 to understand that in the less pronounced types, ofifsets of 
 color and impurities the one against the other are not to be 
 reckoned. This concludes the line of Middling types and 
 now we will consider others. 
 
42 . PEN PICTURES 
 
 GROUP OF ORDINARY TYPES. 
 Strict Good Ordinary. 
 
 Q. What is the next group; and what is the type we have 
 first to consider? 
 
 Ans. The types before us are a part of the Ordinary group- 
 There are only two taken and they mark the limit of descent 
 in commercial grading and rating. The first is a type of 
 Strict Good Ordinary. You will observe that it is a shade 
 darker than the types of Low Middling, that it carries a 
 slightly increased degree of impurity more than shows in that 
 type and that its face is marred ami blurred by knotty looking 
 bulks of fiber. Its combed out fiber shows greater irregular- 
 ity of length, ranging from seven-eighths to an inch in meas- 
 ure. This is due to a mixed gathering of the Middling crop 
 with the shorter stapled later second or top cr(*p. The Mid- 
 dling staple shows weather stains, and trash tliat has been 
 unavoidably taken in the hand grasp of the ])icker, either from 
 the ground or from dried plant foliage about the burr. The 
 later opening of top or second crop cotton if separated would 
 s'how a clean white exhil)it. lUit the mixture before us shows 
 a dark faced unclean type of cotton, the irregular fiber length 
 of which gives it a small discount in value, but having a 
 sound bod}' of good "breaking strengih." it is accepted on the 
 market as a spinable cotton, lowered in worth bv inequality, 
 color and impurities. 
 
 Good Ordinary. 
 
 Q- What is the other type of this group? 
 
 Ans. It is classed Good Ordinary. With only a sliglit in- 
 crease of shade there is a bolder showiug of stain to distin- 
 guish this face from that of the preceding type. The material 
 points of difi"erence are the ineciuality of fiber length and fall- 
 ing off in fiber strength. This type is tlie output of gathering 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 43 
 
 that includes delayed and weather worn middling- with all 
 that follows in the form of late picking. A sufficient percen- 
 tage of Frost Stain is presented to warrant a cut in grade and 
 yaiue on account of reduced fiber strength. A small introduc- 
 tion of Frost Stain is admissable in this grade, but where it 
 predominates as an ingredient or even shows in excessive de- 
 gree the cotton bearing it is reduced below a commercial white 
 grading. Tliis concludes the full classing of commercial 
 white types and we will next consider the cohered cottons. 
 
 Tinges. 
 
 Q. What is the array of types you have arranged for our in- 
 spection? 
 
 Ans- They are tinged type equivalents of the White 
 Grades we have just inspected. Beginning witli the highest 
 type, w'hich is Strict Good Middling, I have placed each op- 
 posite its equivalent in the line of white grades down to and 
 including the grade of Low Middling. You will observe that 
 the Tinge is the only characteristic point of difference in these 
 gradings, as each of the named types corresponds in class. In 
 this array the Red Tinge only is presented. 1 will quote from 
 my opening lecture by remarking that t'he dark tinges are as- 
 signed to the grade of Middling, Strict Low Middling and 
 Low Middling. The dark tinges of higher ty]K's than Mid- 
 dling are usually classed Low Middling White. 
 
 Middling Stained. 
 
 Q. What is the lone type yet remaining to be graded? 
 
 Ans- It is Middling Stained. It has an apparent cleaner 
 face than its White equivalent. HoY^^ever. on account of its 
 pronounced imprintings of Foliage or light Boll stains it is so 
 classed. This closes our study, for the present, of these types. 
 I will say to you that a familiar acquaintance with these ex- 
 hibited types and a memory of my explanation as it has been 
 
44 • PEN PICTURES 
 
 given relating to each separately will give to you, the student 
 examiner, an open way to the field of cotton grading. A 
 knowledge t'hus gained is like a light thrown over the whole 
 field to be explored, as it may also be compared to a pool 
 where the young swimmer has acquired such capability in the 
 art of swimming that he may venture with confidence and 
 safety into any nearby unexplored waters. 
 
 Rating and Classing. 
 
 Before parting with you at this time I will refer to the con- 
 fusion of gradings so puzzling to the inexperienced classer. 
 arising from the placing of entirely dififerent cottons in fhe 
 same grade. In such instances as where two dififerent cottons 
 have been assigned to the same grade, it is evident t'hat one of 
 them is a Rating and not a Classing. ] wdl illustrate by tak- 
 ing in r.naginat'oa .i .'car type of Str.'cr Middling and "salt- 
 ing'' or befouling it with trash till it is carried thereby below 
 anv of the Middling grades- Then its classification as 
 Strict Good Ordinary would not be a Type Classing but a 
 Class Rating.. Do not let such grading confuse you. Learn 
 the Central Types before you and all cotton so to be Classed 
 will be found to have a close resemblance thereto. 
 
 Note: In this descriptive lesson I have kept l)efore me i 
 pivotal type of each grade. I have discussed them as if they 
 were also before you. for the reason that any set of selected 
 types of grades to be used could not vary far from those I have 
 pictured. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 OTHER PEN PICTURES— A DAY AT THE BOARD. 
 
 The class is now invited to go with me. in imagination, to i 
 cotton warehouse in the interior where a large lot of cotton 
 has been purchased and stored by a resident buyer. The pur- 
 chaser has sold on grades the entire lot to a large firm of buy- 
 ers, whose classing agent is on the ground to check out and 
 assign grade values, bale by bale, to the shipment. Fresh 
 samples have been boarded, two from each bale, representing 
 the "show" of cotton on its respective sides. This is done for 
 the reason that under the system of gang ginning where the 
 cotton goes to the press from a series of several gins it is diffi- 
 cult to give to each bale an initial roll of its finished cotton. 
 If not carefully handled and watched a thin facing of the pre 
 viously ginned bale will show to change the natural type 
 When such a difiference appears it becomes necessarv to cut 
 deeper into the bale on both sides to ascertain its actual grad- 
 ing. An experienced classer will know from the arrangement 
 of t'he tie buckles on the bale which is its top or its under side, 
 but he, too, usually takes the double sample. 
 
 The owner has assorted his cotton and has selected his bes'. 
 grades for first classification. All is in readiness, and the 
 classing begins. The owner turns to his tally book and the 
 classer opens the double sample of the first exhibit in the ar- 
 ranged row. It shows to be a perfectly clean body of the 
 whitest cotton, with a staple only a little short of an inch and 
 cne-quarter inch in length. The fiber is fine and silken to the 
 touch. It 'has been well prepared and as the classing agent 
 closes his examination, he calls out "Fair" to be answered by 
 the seller, "'Check. " The sample has an enclosed duplicate 
 form of the tag attached to the bale. It shows the name ant', 
 locality of the ware'house and the number and weight of the 
 bale. The classer enters these points and the grading in his 
 
46 PEN PICTURES 
 
 note book and passes to the next examination- We see thai 
 he finds several bales having a like body to the tirst, but some 
 of them show a slight fleck of stain and others a mere moiety 
 of trash, fie remarks that these are a little above the quarte*- 
 grade of Barely Fair and tiiey, too. are checked by the selle; 
 on liis original grading of Fair. llu- next gratl'iig is of a 
 >lii)rter, coarser, and less elastic staple bod)' than the first, but 
 it is white, clean and well |)re])ared. This too is checked Fair, 
 but the classer notes in his book, by a private mark, that it is 
 the coarser and stronger stapled (piality of that grade. Otl.'- 
 ers of the same type follow, bearing similar flecks of stain and 
 specks of trash to those of the first types graded Fair, but on 
 account (^f the coarser body he declines to place them above 
 the grade of : 
 
 Strict Middling Fair. 
 
 n 
 
 This grading is accepted by the seller. A mixed lot of bot 
 these white stapled bodies, showing in each sample a few par- 
 ticles of trasli or a trace of early light colored foliage stain is 
 next presented. These are, one by one, passed into the grade 
 of Strict Middling Fair, as they have shown face, color ana 
 staple body higher than Fully Middling Fair, but a few class- 
 ing about I'ully Middling I^air, or a little lower, have by agree- 
 ment been dro])ped to the grade of: 
 
 Middling Fair. 
 
 A line is now presented w'hich shows specimens of both the 
 while stapled cotton you have just seen, changed only in the 
 matter of presenting on their faces several ])articles of trash of 
 the intermediate form, a dim showing, of an occasional small 
 stain with here and there a sleek head indicating a more mark- 
 ed degree of inequality. These are checked out as pivotal 
 types of Middling Fair- A few others, not quite so good, but 
 IKitcntly higher than the quarter grades of Barely Middling" 
 
STAXDARl) COTTON GRADES 47 
 
 Fair, have also hccii assis^ned this classing', .\o-ain there is a 
 ""lay out" of si>(.'cimcns, comparing favorably in staple, body 
 and cleanliness with the hig-her named types, but althoui?'. 
 there is a sus]:)ici()n of shade in their color, these, too, are placed 
 in the grade of Middling Fair. C)ther specimens of the last- 
 named cotton, shovxing a greater degree of the several kinc's 
 of imj)urities named are scaled to the grade ot 
 
 Strict Good Middling. 
 
 The board is now cleared for a new exhibit of samples. \\'e 
 see the classer take from a line of samjjles one of a creamy 
 white colf)r which shows a ])erfectly smooth face, with only a 
 slight dotting ot trash. Its staple will measure uniformly 
 fullv one and one-eighth inches. He classes it Strict Good 
 Middling. He must hold it here on accmuit of its color. Oth- 
 ers in the line not so good in character. Aarying in face and 
 sta])le quality, none alike, yet all a little higher than the quar- 
 ter grade of Fully Good Middling, he also checks with the 
 owner as Strict Good Middling. A similar line of samples of a 
 slightly shaded white, embracing a like showing of variants, 
 we see also that he checks out on the grade of Strict Good 
 Middling. Xext we see him take up and oi)en a specimen 
 irom another litie- lie sees that in color and staple it is the 
 same as the jjreceeding classification, but he perceives a mark- 
 ed increase of Impurities. He obser\es two of the larger 
 forms of tieak trash, one of the intermediate Aariet}', and a 
 few conspicuous ])articles of ])ei)]^er trash. He sees also a 
 greenish cohered seed end i-^r mote, but this he regards as inci- 
 dental. A trace of foliage stain is observable. ( )nh- a few^ 
 nidications of unri])e cottcMi are present, though a sui'ticient 
 number to point to the objection of Inequality. He clasps the 
 sample a second time and its elasticity he tinds to be stand- 
 ard. He calls out the grade of 
 4 
 
48 PEN PICTURES 
 
 Good Middling, 
 
 and is checked by the owner's answer, "O. K." Others in 
 this line, of both the cream cast of color and the whiter cot- 
 ton as appeared in the preceding type of Strict Good Middling, 
 are examined. They show variants of the first type, rangmg 
 from just below the quarter grade of Fully Good Middling 
 above to a point just within the limits of Barely Good Mid- 
 dling below. All of these he and the seller place in the grade 
 of Good Middling- 
 
 In the next line he first finds a few samples of Good Mid- 
 dling color and body, ])Ut on account of increased loadings 
 they are taken beyond t'he quarter grade of Barely Good Mid- 
 dling to the classing of 
 
 Strict Middling. 
 
 Next he examines a sample showing a degree of dark shade 
 below that of the wliite type of Good Middling. He opens 
 the sample and finds its face not so smooth as the previous 
 types examined. He sees sleekheads, several pieces of trash 
 of each of the larger forms and also a showing of pepper 
 trash. A stain spot and a fugitive mote are to be seen. It 
 shows a fairly uniform fiber length of one inch, and he grades 
 it, and Ihe line of slight \'ariants grouped with it. Strict Mid- 
 dling. 
 
 Middling. 
 
 The board is now cleared and made ready for a very large 
 array of samples. We see that in these there is a deeper or 
 darker shade, just enough to mark a color distinction, when 
 compared with those of the preceding lot, yet they could not 
 properly be described as falling below a semi-bright pale 
 white cast. A single specimen being taken for examination, 
 the classer sees that the smoothness of its face is marred by 
 several pieces of broken fleak trash, and that similar pieces 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 49 
 
 have been rebroken into finer parts and show plainly, but not 
 to a damagingly conspicuous degree, in the form of pepper 
 trash. -The curling forms of immature cotton and one or 
 more small flecks of stain are in evidence, but he sees that 
 these have not weakened the fiber, nor established the char- 
 acter of inequality to a hurtful extent- He passes on in liis 
 examination till the entire lot has been classed. In all he 
 finds some slight variations in color or impurities from that 
 first examined, as each of the lot differs, in some respects, 
 from all the others. You see, as he does, that the first speci- 
 men examined is approximately near a central or pivotal type, 
 and t'hat others are its admissable variants. As the classer 
 calls and the owner checks, this entire lot is graded Middling. 
 The variants have maintained their approximate relationships 
 to the central type, by keeping within the limits of the quar- 
 ter grades, Fully Middling and Barely Middling, as they 
 show to be better or worse t'han the mean types. 
 
 Strict Low Middling. 
 
 The next "boarding" presents a line showing another drop 
 in shade. Wfth only one or two exceptions, none of them can 
 be graded as high as Middling on forbidding color alone. A 
 specimen sample shows that in addition to a darker color, it 
 carries heavy loadings of trash, nearly or quite double t'hat 
 allowed on a Middling grade, other impurities are noted in a 
 corresponding increased degree. The suspicion of the classer 
 is aroused, and he now begins an examination of body. He 
 finds by breaking and measuring that the staple has a stand- 
 ard length of about one inch, that its inequality is not exces- 
 sively great, and that the brittleness shown in hand clasp is 
 due to overloadings of impurities- Some of the lot are bright- 
 er than the specimen first taken, yet bear the same showing of 
 loadings. Others are slightly darker but are much cleaner. 
 One by one as the lot passes the inspection of the classer, liis 
 call of Strict Low Middling is accepted by the seller. 
 
.50 . PEN PICTURES 
 
 Low Middling, 
 
 Now a yet darker line of samples is presented. Except as 
 to a deeper shade i>f duskiness and a sliQluly increased meas- 
 ure of impurities, tliero is nothing;' to distinguish this line from 
 the precedinj^ lol. There is. ho\ve\er. a greater uniformity 
 of color, and color is to be taken as a ruling' characteristic o( 
 this f;rade. With pertect a|2;'reement. classer and seller ])lace 
 this lot in the L;i"ade of Low Middling. 
 
 Strict Good Ordinary. 
 
 A smaller lot is now presented. He selects a sample which 
 shows a still lower shade of coh^r than that ()f the i^recedinq' 
 exhibit- It has a roug'h face badlv marked by stains anfl 
 trash. Its staple he examines closely, and hnds it to be from 
 se\'en-ei}.^hths of an inch to one inch in leuiji'th. lie finds its 
 breakint:;' strenL,'^th unimpaired, but that the objections of Ine- 
 quality and impurities take it below the Middling grades. He 
 classes it Strict Good Ordinary. ( )thers of the exhibit, 
 though varying somewhat in appearance from the first, are 
 placed in the same grade, wliich classing is accepted bv the 
 seller. 
 
 Good Ordinary. 
 
 A tew^ other samples are olTered. These all alike, in addi- 
 tion to low color and trash, show signs of frost stain and 
 other forms of affected hber U'ngth and strength. The staple 
 body, however, is not so badly atfecled as to reduce it l)elow 
 the grading of Good Ordinary. It is so classed and accej^jted. 
 
 Storm Cotton. 
 
 A lot of storm cotton is now presented- !>e\-eral sam])les of 
 wdiite standard stapled cotton are examined. rhe\- are found 
 to be so loaded with trash that the gr.ading of the cotton be- 
 comes a secondary matter. lie places them, sexerallv. ac- 
 cording to their a])pearance and rate value, in the grades of 
 Strict Low Middling, Low Middling and Strict Good Ordi- 
 nary. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 5I 
 
 Inferior. 
 
 Two other samples only remain to be examined. They are 
 very bulky, two or three times the usual size, and upon bein^^ 
 opened they look little like a cotton exhibit. They fall far 
 below the grading of Good Ordinary. The classer prefer.s 
 not to take them, but 'his principals have [)urchased the lot, 
 and these two bales are a part thereof. We see a bulk com- 
 posed of fibers of different length, varying from one-half inch 
 to one irich, in part sound and strong, but \vith this rough pre- 
 senting is a large mixture of frost stained and other unclean 
 and damaged fiber. 
 
 Such cotton can not be graded. It can only be rated- 
 Classer and seller agree that it would clean out at the mills 
 about forty per cent long and strong staple, and that the re- 
 maining sixty per cent, of waste would not more than balance 
 in value the cost of carriage and cleaning. L'pon this basis of 
 agreement the two bales are taken at fort\' per cent, of the?r 
 weight, and classed Good Ordinary, or the lowest commercial 
 grade. And now the several hundred bales we have seen 
 classed, stand lined up. each having the consignment mark of 
 the purchaser, ready for immediate shipment. We will re- 
 tire and think of the interestin"- work we have witnessed. 
 
TH E 
 
 Cotton Grader 
 
 OR 
 
 How to Classify Cotton 
 
 The above titled work is here reproduced as published in 
 1908. It is made a part of these lessons. The following- 
 pages, including Preface, are with only a few slight changes, 
 identical with the original publication- The student will find 
 all therein that may be taken as supplemental and explanatory 
 of Pen Pictures. (Used by consent of lessee.) 
 
PREFACE 
 
 This liook is intended to give a clear, eoniprehenslve idea 
 of tlie Art of Cotton Grading and Classifying. As to whether 
 or not t'hat work has been accomplished, he who reads it with 
 the view of learning the Art will be rewarded. The Fiber is 
 made the unit of classification- Every form and variety of 
 Fiber is described and every character of impurity that might 
 affect it is discussed. As these conditi<ins are sh()\vn and ex- 
 ]dained, the grade (ir class to which that particular sample or 
 kind of cotton belongs is given. T'he way of examining is 
 luade so plain that any one can understand it. 
 
 This is t'he First Work of the kind ever pul>lished. Writers, 
 like buyers, have seemingly considered the subject beyond the 
 comprehension of an ordinary Farmer. At least f(^r .some rea- 
 son the}- have acquiesced in the buyers' opinion that grading 
 and naming tlie price of Cotton was something of which the 
 Farmer should exercise no primary judgment.. Just a little 
 agitation has aroused the barmers to a sense of tlieir hel|)less- 
 ness in this respect, and when thev are told that it recpiires, in 
 connection with a \ery short treatise on the subject, only a 
 limited course <if practical ap])lication in their own 'Iiomes to 
 luake fhem fairix- proficient, they will dotd)tless profit by the 
 opportunity presented in this small vet complete exposition of 
 the subject. Every Farmer should know how to grade his own 
 cotton. 
 
 The Author. 
 
COTTON 
 
 As to variety of subjects and quantity of matter, much has 
 been written about Cotton. We 'have books and volumes ot 
 books that tell us about its antiquity, the countries where it 
 may grow, the various kinds of Cotton grown, how and where 
 it is manufactured and how the farmer should plant, fertilize, 
 cultivate, gather, gin and haul it to market. We have books 
 that tell us about mac'hinery for manufacturing the By-Prod- 
 ucts, others full nf statistical and other information, touching 
 upon the future labor to be used in its production, or giving the 
 great Exchange system of fixing its price. In fact, everythmg 
 from the planting of the seed to the problem of transportation 
 has been written about without limit. 
 Not Everything. 
 
 No; there is one thing about which, as a subject, no line 
 has ever vet been written. If this effort shall go out to the 
 public, it will be the First to appear as a written thesis upon 
 the question of Grading and Classifying Cotton 
 
 The farmer has been instructed in the way best to plant, cul- 
 tivate and gather, but only by chance has he ever learned the 
 difference between the grades of "Fair" and "Inferior" cotton. 
 He has been educated to hold his cotton for a higher price, but 
 he, the average farmer, does not know whether he is holding 
 ■"Good Middling" or "Low Ordinary." 
 
 It is contended that no valuable instruction of a theoretical 
 character can be given upon the subject of Grading Cotton 
 This is not true, only as it may mean that a thorough knowl- 
 edge of the art must combine the practical with the theoretical. 
 It could as reasonably be claimed that a man who is not a col- 
 lege graduate does not know anything, and that no acquaint- 
 ance with a subject short of a perfect knowledge has any real 
 worth. TTie idea is absurd. If an expert classifier should say 
 to you that a sample of cotton is of a certain grade and class 
 
56 PEN PICTURES 
 
 because its staple is of a given dimension, its color is white, it 
 feels live, flexible and elastic to the touch, its fiber is uniformly 
 good, it shows no injury from previous dampness, it is not 
 stained and it is comparatively clean, could you not see these 
 several and various points of classification as he mentioned 
 them? Suppose next that instead of having the sample in 
 hand, 'he should simply describe one of that kind, and ask you 
 to select frr)m a lot of cotton before you a bale that would cor- 
 respond with the described grade, could you not on first trial, 
 perform the assigned task? Again, if instead of communicat 
 ing with you orally, he should write out this description, could 
 you not as well. (U- better, comply with his re(|uest? Could 
 you not soon return to him and say: "Here. Mr Classifier, is 
 your bale of Middling Cotton"? Assuredly any intelligent 
 man could do this, and w'hat he could do in selecting this grade 
 he could do in selecting any other. 
 
 We are creatures of custom. ( )ften men fight, bleed and die, 
 zealously, heroically and patriotically, defending causes, which, 
 in so far as they may know through persona! investigation, 
 might prove unworthy the name. Custom is a tyrant. It is 
 a ruler w'hosc sway is never abated by age- Precedent is a 
 despot, unfeeling, exacting and domineering. "In the way 
 our fathers trod" is a commendable sentiment of veneration, 
 and as a guide for our steps may have many sliini.,g exceptions, 
 but. in the main, the path which should have been lighted by 
 experience remains darkened, and leads us often over a rodgh 
 and stonv road. Who declares that the farmer of the So'/.Mi, 
 he that grows annually twenty bales of cotton, is ntterlv dis- 
 qualified, under any character of pre])aratory efi^ort. to grade 
 'his own cotton and know what it is worth? The answer is, 
 ''Custoin." How is it, the intelligent farmer, man or boy, 
 can not do this, when almost any city lad with a half sea- 
 son's warehouse experience can do it? The answer is, 
 "Precedent has arranged it so, and precedent must be ob- 
 served." Whv is it these selfsame cotton growers make no 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 57 
 
 effort to set aside those customs and precedents Which are so 
 detrimental to their financial interests? The only answer 
 seems to be that, though it should be quite expensive, they 
 prefer to ''Walk in the way our fathers trod." It is presump- 
 tuously assumed iby the cotton buyer, both agent and principal, 
 that no one else connected wit'h the transaction but the buyei 
 is capable of judging the grade and value of tlie cotton to be 
 sold and bought. This is tacitly conceded to be a proper as- 
 sumption by the farmer's commercial neighbor's and frien'ls, 
 and by him is helplessly agreed to. all because it has been a 
 custom so to do. So strongly has habit or precedent estab- 
 lished itself in relation to the question of Cotton Classifica- 
 tion, that the idea of "special professional acquirement or gilt" 
 seems to prevail in the face of all logic and argument to the 
 contrary. In a conversation with an old cotton buyer friend 
 the fact was mentioned that this Guide to Cotton Classifying 
 was bemg prepared- He expressed surprise that such a work 
 should be undertaken, declaring it wholly impracticable. He 
 went so far as to declare tie would not be willing to go upon 
 record and risk his future reputation by making a written de- 
 scription of any grade of cotton. When questioned closely, as 
 to why not, he could not in answer go beyond the illogical 
 word, "unprecedented." However, he admitted that a very 
 great deal of "valuable theoretical" information could be given. 
 "Theoretical" information is exactly the kind proposed to be 
 given ,and it is offered with, the honqst Tiope that it may prove 
 'Valuable." Until the seller and the buyer can meet upon com- 
 mon ground, both knowing the grade and market value of the 
 article to be sold, the man who does not know is wholly at the 
 mercy of the man who does know. 
 
 Classification Basis. 
 
 Cotton is classified, not according to variety, hut by Grades 
 and Types as indicated by the staple and its conwition. 
 
 Variety means kind, and its designating name relers, prir- 
 
58 PEN PICTURES 
 
 cipally, to the place, country, or part of the duntry, where the 
 soil and climate are adapted to the growth of tliat particular 
 kind of Cotton. Or a variety name may be j^iven to an im- 
 proved species- 
 Grade emljraces staple, color, condition and duality. 
 Staple is the measure of the fiber, as to wlieiher it may be 
 long or s'hort, hue <>r coarse, strong or weak, wilh or without 
 natural twist, uniform or irregular, dead ur live, elastic or 
 brittle — the whole comprising the qualities o'' length and 
 strength. 
 
 Color in grading applies to wdiite, as a basf, and to all the 
 regular shades from that to the brown or Nankin. It does not 
 include stains, fleck-marks, spots or other discol'..'atio,'iS. 
 Condition fcdlow s upon a multiplicity of cause.>. 
 
 (1) SOUNDXl-lSS — as indicated by strength of fiber, or 
 by freedom from the effects of present or prexioivs dampness. 
 
 (2) hTR.MXl'.SS — as it may feel res])iin,';;\ ely live ot 
 dead to the touch — elastic and flexible. 
 
 (3) CLEANLINESS — as it may have more or less trash 
 or "dirt." 
 
 (4) DlSCr)L()RATION— as from boll stam— trom damp- 
 ness in seed — from possible soil stain — from tlie chv burr 
 marks of late ])icking — from hoop stain and from od stani- 
 
 (5) AIOTLS — as from faulty ginning or from immature 
 seed and seed ends. 
 
 (6) INEOl'ALITY — as from mixing diffc,-ent kinds oi 
 varieties of seed cotton. 
 
 (7) SPOT.S — as from mildew or fungoid or from foliage 
 rust-stain ; and, 
 
 (8) NON-DEVELOPMENT— as shown by the lack of spi- 
 ral form or natural twist in the fiber and by the unequal 
 length and strength of the fiber resulting from a mixture of 
 ripe, half-ripe and dead staple. 
 
 Quality is that estimate o7 rating which is ba'-ed upon tht; 
 
STAXDARD COTTON GI>L\I)l-:S 59 
 
 combination uf staple, color and condition. To tell the (jual- 
 ity is lo name the i;rade or classification. 
 
 Type. 
 
 1 ype is mtjre proi)erly a manufacturing term as api)iied to 
 i^rades, but it is one with which the field classifier must be ac- 
 quamtcd. It is a selected grade of cotton about which and 
 with which other approximate grades, higher and lower, may 
 be combined in harmonious blending. This jjroduces a mix- 
 ture ditt'ering from all its component parts, better than the 
 lower Init not so good as the higher, and, of course, unlike 
 the (jriginal type grade- By this method, classifying by the 
 manufacturer is reduced from the broad range of div^ersified 
 grades, to a few types which embrace the better part of these 
 grades. The econonn- attending this order of arrangement 
 gives, from the several grades selected, a uniftjrm finished 
 product; whereas, if each were taken sei)arate!y, it would, in 
 itself, constitute a specific type. It also enables the manu- 
 facturer the nnu'e easily to suppl}' himself with stock, as a 
 large bulk of cotton of any given classification is not always 
 readily obtainable. 
 
 Types are made up at. or as it may be ior, the mills and 
 factories b}- (jualified expert cotton graders, llere vou will 
 find an artist who knows his profession, lie does not know, 
 necesarily, and he need not care, whether the cotton he 
 must examine so closely is worth in the market one dollar per 
 pound or r)nly one cent per pound, but he does know that the 
 several lots or i)arcels of cotton he has selected, \-arying in 
 weight and classification, after being mixed and taken through 
 all the preparatory piocesses, must produce a cond^ination 
 wdiich shall give, as a finished product, one without noticea- 
 ble difference from that resulting from a ])re\i )us condjina- 
 tion of a similar character, and, likewise, from oi'hers he must 
 make in future to fill a uniform large order. 
 
 A knowledge of this kind has been the professional capita! 
 
60 PEN PICTURES 
 
 of the field cotton buyer, as a lack of its possession by the cot- 
 ton producer has long kept him on the roll of the victimized. 
 Ye buyer understands well the art of "putting- up" types, and 
 though there could be no harm in "putting up" an honest 
 type, it is barely fair to work the damaging "average up" plan 
 on the farmer, when in most cases it means ''average down." 
 Under our present system of handling cotton, the buyer is en- 
 titled to his comission or his rightful speculative profits, but 
 the "average up" plan should be stopped by the seller till 'he,' 
 himself, learns how to "average up." Every farmer who 
 grows cotton should know how to grade, classify and type oi 
 average up any assorted lot or number of bales he may ofifer 
 to sell- In the sense here discussed the term type means to 
 average, or to combine different grades for marketmg at a 
 "lump figure." 
 
 Type is also a term of distinction used by manufacturers to 
 indicate variety. In the American mills' classification we 
 'have the Sea Island, some foreign, and the several Uplands 
 varieties each constituting a type. 
 
 Varieties of Cotton. 
 
 Many exhaustive treatises have been written upon the Bot- 
 any of Cotton. Eor a history of the plant these works are re- 
 ferred to, but in this elTort no attempt will be made to go be- 
 yond the naming of the difi:'erent foreign and home varieties 
 and showing their textile coiuparison. 
 
 Foreign Cottons. 
 
 Tlie Brown Egyptian is a very fine fibered long stapled cot- 
 ton. It is used in the manufacture of high grade varus and 
 fabrics, and a considerable (juantity is annually imported into 
 the United States for that purpose. All other varieties of 
 Egyptian Cotton are considered inferior- 
 
 The China and India cottons are both of very low grade. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 61 
 
 The China is consumed entirely at home, but India exports a 
 large part of her raw product to Europe. 
 
 The South American cottons are of many varieties. The 
 principal two are the Brazilian and the Peruvian. The Bra- 
 zilian goes chiefly to Europe, but our American manufactur- 
 ers use a great deal of the Peruvian (red) in the manufacture 
 of special lines and in the making up of types. Other varie- 
 ties of the South American cotton are classed with the Mexi- 
 can product and are considered unimportant both in bulk and 
 quality. 
 
 American Cotton. 
 
 This designation applies only to the product of the United 
 States of North America and the adjacent islands. 
 
 Sea Island is considered an American product. It is 
 grown principally on the islands off the South Atlantic coast- ' 
 All points of merit considered, it ranks highest in the grades 
 of cotton the world over. Sea Island cotton is grown also on 
 the main land of Florida, Georgia and South Carolina, that of 
 Florida being the best, but still distinguishable as a lower 
 grade than that of the island product. 
 
 The American mainland cotton and its many classes or 
 kinds, both native and improved, is next to be mentioned. 
 The quantity of this general variety is greater than that pro- 
 duced by all ot'her parts of the world combined, and the value 
 set upon its middle or basic grade controls tlie price of cotton 
 in all commercial quarters of the globe. 
 
 Sub-Divisions. 
 
 The most important of the several divisions or varieties of 
 the American mainland cotton is that known as the Orleans 
 or Gulf. These names embrace a number of included varie- 
 ties, all. in the market, being understood as virtually tlie 
 same. Its staple is both long and strong, measuring in 
 
62 PEN PICTURES 
 
 length from one inch to one and one-half inc'hes, and having 
 a tensile capacity highly valued by spinners. 
 
 IVoducts from the fields of the higher inland river valley 
 lands of Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, Arkansas and Ten- 
 nessee are only sliglUly inferior to the Orleans, but they con- 
 stitute a marketable variety. 
 
 Texas cotton stands alone as a saparate variety- It varies 
 from seven-eighths to one inch in length of staple. The prod- 
 uct of the r>razos Valley, however, ranks above this rating 
 ami is ai)preciated in both the home and foreign market. ^ 
 much above the commonly accepted Texas variety. 
 
 Uplands embraces all that yield coming from tlie territory 
 not designated as the home of the several special sub-varie- 
 ties mentioned. Uplands cotton has a staple from three- 
 fourths of an inch to one and one-eighth inches in standard 
 lenij-th. 
 
 HOW TO CLASSIFY COTTON- 
 
 A carefully grown, well develoi)ed, cleanly gathered, proD- 
 eily ginned and wrapped bale of white Uplands cotton forms 
 the basic center from w'hich all higher or lower grades are de- 
 termined. L^plands has its many "ImproN'ed" varieties, and 
 its sub-varieties are almost as numerous as the varied char- 
 acters of the soil, the latitude and the altitude of the fields 
 where they are severally grown. L plands, however varied 
 is Uplands and a classifier who may be able to grade one of 
 its varieties may as easily grade all of them. 
 
 The Principle of Cotton Grading. 
 
 In every development there is a basic point from which 
 growth begins. It is well known that a proper solution of 
 any mathematical question depends upon a careful starting 
 with its unit. As applied in mathematics so the rule must 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 63 
 
 be made to operate in all things. If we wish to understand 
 by investigation any given proposition, we must work out 
 from its initial point. We must go to its base for our first 
 and only correct comprehension of its parts. Again, there is 
 a law governing fhe economy of action which prohibits the 
 attempted performance of two different acts at one and the 
 same time- "'Do one thing and do it well, then do the sec- 
 ond thing and dt) it better" is a nice old j)roverb. If you 
 wish to learn the art of grading cotton, you should take up 
 the study alone, and let every non-essential collateral element 
 of cotton be put aside for the time. From this preliminary 
 it might be argued that in t'he cotton seed is the germ, the 
 unit, the initial point from which to move out in the start to 
 study cotton. I have before told you that volumes and vol- 
 umes have been written upon cotton with our subject Cotton 
 Grading, left out. These writers begin with the seed and 
 'have taken you everywhere else but to a knowledge of clas- 
 sifying the staple about which, otherwise, thev have written 
 so much. 
 
 Our subject, Cotton Grading, has its unit, an initial point, a 
 starting place, that is wholly and entirely its own. If from a 
 bale, or any large bulk of cotton, you should take away, part 
 by part, the smallest quantity you could separate from the 
 general mass, in t'he course of time, though it should be a 
 long time, you would come to a last small part, a little fila- 
 ment, and this is your Cotton Grading L^nit. It is a simple. 
 
 Fiber. 
 
 To learn to classify cotton here your study begins- You 
 must know all about the single fiber and its combinations 
 with other fibers of the same or of different kinds. Despise 
 not the study of small things if you would undertake the con- 
 sideration of the cotton fiber, for you are to take only one and 
 it is so small that it would require one hundred and forty 
 millions like it to weigh one pound. 
 5 
 
64 PEN PICTURES 
 
 The cotton fiber casually observed presents a deceptive ap- 
 pearance. Viewed thus it looks to be a small, long, solid and 
 perfectly round body, but upon closer observation it shows 
 itself as a narrow tiattened tube, twisted in form, and in tnis 
 respect, resembling somewhat a spirally curled hair. The fiber 
 has its tip extremity closed but its base is fastened like a 
 mouth to its mother seed, from which it feeds itself by a 
 capillary process to maturity, h'iber does not taper in form. 
 Jt has the same diameter in all t'he parts of its length. It has 
 a large or small cavity, and is fiat, or retains more nearly its 
 apparent cylindrical form, according to its full or its imperfect 
 development. A perfect fiber is covered by a thin clinging 
 dustlike membrane, called by botanists the "cuticula" or skin. 
 This covering sometimes goes with the fiber through the fac- 
 tory into yarns or other products, but oftener it disappears 
 in the form of gin dust or mill dust- It is comparatively 
 weightless and neither adds to nor detracts from the value 
 of the staple. 
 
 Fiber may be fully developed and still be short or long ac- 
 cording to its parent variety. The range of length is from 
 one-half inch to two inches. This measure of filler length is 
 designated its staple and is the first item to be considered in 
 grading or assigning value. Other items, however, relating 
 to t'he fiber construction are to be reckoned. They are the 
 core or diameter and their strength or tensile power of re- 
 sistance. 
 
 The following show'S the relative diameter, length, and 
 strength of the fiber belonging to the several \arieties pre- 
 sented : 
 
 I^ength Inches 
 
 Sea Island 1.61 
 
 Orleans 1.02 
 
 Texas 1.00 
 
 Uplands 93 
 
 Egyptian 1.41 
 
 Indian •. . . .89 
 
 DiameTe? in. 
 
 .000640 
 
 Ereakii ^ straiD, 
 grftins 
 
 83.9 
 
 .000775 
 
 147.7 
 
 .000765 
 
 109.5 
 
 .000763 
 
 104-5 
 
 .000665 
 
 127.2 
 
 .000894 
 
 160.7 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 65 
 
 This table is given to show that the fiber with the greatest 
 diameter is the strongest and that usually the coarser grades 
 of fiber belong to the shorter staples. 
 
 The measure of tension or breaking strain of a single fiber 
 is estimated by spinners to be from five to ten grams or from 
 eighty to one hundred and sixty grains, or an average of 
 about fifty fibers to sustain a pound. 
 
 A Closer Study of the Fiber. 
 
 Again let the fact be emphasized that the cotton classifier 
 must he perfectly familiar with the unit of classification. Im- 
 purities found in cotton are to him a secondary matter. Tliey 
 are usually easily traced and their causes located. Never let 
 any appearance or condition of a cotton sample take you away 
 from a study of the fiber as the part most affected by that 
 condition. 
 
 After the cotton boll fully matures and opens, a few days 
 of exposure to air and sunlight are beneficial, in t'he way of 
 giving to the slower maturing parts of the pod mature devel- 
 opment, and to the whole spiral individuality of fiber. But if 
 left longer than this, exposed to heat and air, the fiber will 
 tend to become harsh and brittle, and the longer so left the 
 more perceptible these injuries become. Besides, if strong 
 winds prevail, dust and sand will be blown into the open cot- 
 ton, and if it should rain much, water stain will follow- 
 
 Natural Twist. 
 
 The Natural twist of the cotton fiber varies from about two 
 hundred turns to the inch in good grade Uplands to three 
 hundred turns per inch or more in the best Sea Island prod- 
 uct. In connection with its lengt'h the value ot the fiber 
 hinges upon this quality, as in manufacturing the joining pro- 
 cess with other fibers depends upon this as an interlocking 
 principle. Manufacturers use the microscope to ascertain ex- 
 
6^ I'KN PICTl'RKS 
 
 act spiral cliaracter, but this does not imply tliat the ordinary 
 ^i;rading classifier, with his natural vision, holding" a sample 
 secti(^n in hand, ciudd not determine cpiite well enough for 
 practical purposes the j)resence or absence ot this ([uality. just 
 in the same way lie would form conclusive opinion as to 
 length, strength, and other special characteristics of the fi')er 
 niKki- examinalion. Natural Twist is not to be confounded 
 wirii the Elastic Twist of a live healthy tiber. M is the vital 
 force. hovve\-er. of Natural Twist that gives the kinky form of 
 Elastic Twist. 
 
 Unripe Fibers. 
 
 In e\ ery sam])le of cotton. fr(~>m the 'highest to the lowest 
 gra<le. hall-ripe ami totally dead fil)ers ma\' ])e found. Nature 
 in many instance- nia\ be able to parade its lines of perfection, 
 but as small a (piantit}- as a single ])oimd of perfectlv devel- 
 oped and matured lint cotton is not included on its list. In 
 a single pound of cotton there are about one hundred and 
 forty million separate and distinct developments of independ- 
 ent hber. In a bale of cotton there are about five hundred 
 l)oimds. 'Idien. thougli a bale of cotton may be classed "i-air 
 or ■"lixtra" or "( lood." terms represmiting the highest classiti- 
 cation of the leading t'hree varieties, we are not to look for a 
 total absence of any of the defects upon which such classihca- 
 tion is based- As to half-ripe and dead fibers, their presence is 
 natural. lUights ma\ fall upon the bearing ]dant after one- 
 half the Ixjlls ha\e matured in a healt'hful form. \x\ like man- 
 ner the lu'uising (H- breaking of liml)S on a part of the stalk 
 would cause a similar order of variable ripening, h^ibers \w 
 the same boll do not all mature simultaner)usly. yet the boll 
 o])ens to accommodate the ri])e and presents the unripe to the 
 jdcker in its unde\eloped state. Therefore, half-ripe and dead 
 fibers are to be looked for naturalK' in every sami)le of cotton. 
 ( )f course, if the\- should form too gj-eat a percentage of the 
 general bulk, which is sometimes the case, a corresponding 
 
STANDARD CCyrTON CiRADKS 67 
 
 lower estimate should be made of the grade, Init you should 
 know that "Dead Cotton" is a favorite term used by un- 
 scrupulous buyers who seek to undergrade. We do not need 
 the microscope to detect the presence of half-ripe or dead lil)- 
 ers in a specimen sample. The halt-ripe is shorter than the 
 mature staple and has less spiral turns in proportion to its 
 length. The dead fiber is like a lifeless parasite winding 
 around and clinging to the mature and the half-ripe fibers. A 
 careful examination, suggested by lacking elasticity and flexi- 
 bility, will show the grader these (pialities- If only the nor- 
 mal quantity is found they may be passed unnoticed, but if 
 they appear in exaggerated form the grade is to be corres- 
 pondingly lowered. 
 
 Broken Fiber. 
 
 The inferior or unfit condition of a gin, or the rajMditity of 
 its revolution causes the saw-gin to double cut the fiber, tak- 
 ing it from the seed in two sections or leaving a part of the 
 fiber with the seed. This does not occur with t'he use of the 
 roller gin, used for long staple cotton, but sometimes, with 
 it, there is a rude rupture of the fiber noticeable. With a saw- 
 gin this defect would almost certainly go through the entire 
 bale under examination, and perhaps through many others. 
 It is easily discovered and detracts considerabh from the oth- 
 erwise good grade of cotton. 
 
 Stained Fiber. 
 
 One drop of ink in a glass of clear water utterly mars u 
 purity of its appearance. A less proportionate part of stained 
 cotton in any sized sample would indicate a greater apparent 
 departure from perfection. One stained fiber in a small pinch 
 of cotton, pulled through the fingers of the examiner shows 
 like a multitude of wriggling rainbows circling a section of 
 clearly outlined horizon- Stains, whether important or unim- 
 
68 PEN PICTURES 
 
 portant, are good capital for t'he decrying buyer, who would 
 take advantage, in a purchase from the uniformed producer. 
 Under the head of "Conditions," on a preceding page, are 
 enumerated and named the dififerent kinds of lint-stain, con- 
 sidered by the field buyer, in his deals with the farmer and th 
 country merchant. Here I shall refer to the commercial stam 
 only. 
 
 Boll Stain. 
 
 Boll Stain is caused by water that has entered a partly 
 opened boll and saturated the inner pod. The coloring matter 
 from the inner membrane is washed into the general lower 
 body of the pod and gives to it a red or brown shade. This 
 is considered of not much importance, as in the manufacturing 
 process of dyeing and sizing such stains would disappear. 
 
 Hoop Stain. 
 
 Hoop Stain is nothing more or less than iron band rust and 
 really, in itself, amounts to only the loss of a few ounces of 
 cotton to the bale. However, it suggests a character of neg- 
 lect or want of care pointing to other impurities, and forms of 
 damage, and furnishes a good excuse or cause for lowering a 
 grade- 
 Oil Stam. 
 
 Oil Stain is caused by the crushmg of the seed in the gin ; 
 t'he exuding oil giving to the fiber a yellowish color. If this 
 staining should be general throughout the parts of a bale of 
 cotton its value would be much reduced. Its waxy and glue- 
 like nature retards the process of carding and spinning, and 
 such cotton is often wholly rejected by spinners. A second 
 kind of oil stain is only a probable stain manifesting its almost 
 certain future appearance in the form of immature seed in the 
 meshes of baled cotton. Separation at the mills is a task too 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 69 
 
 difficult to be undertaken, and if left in, t'hey are crushed by 
 the mill machinery and regular oil stain is the result. 
 ''Seeded lint," as it is called and oil stained cotton are to be 
 graded alike. 
 
 Fungoid Stain. 
 
 Fungoid Stain is but another name for mildewed cotton. It 
 may follow as a result from a number of causes. It ranks with 
 "Damaged Cotton," and there is no special grade to which it 
 may be assigned. 
 
 Fiber in Bulk. 
 
 Fiber in bulk is cotton lint in large or small quantity, or a 
 mass of fibers taken in aggregate form. In treating fiber in 
 bulk, the single fiber is supposed to have passed examination 
 as the basis of staple, or as it is to be considered the represen- 
 tative of tlie general class of fibers forming the larger mass 
 to be graded as a whole. Cleanliness and soundness are now 
 the points to be considered. 
 
 Broken Leaves. 
 
 The leaves of the cotton plant, and sometimes bearded or 
 hard stemmed grasses in badly cultivated fields, are natural 
 factors in reducing the variety and grade of cotton. A dry leaf 
 in close proximity to the open boll is very frequently included 
 in the hand grasp of the hurrying picker. If it is not removed, 
 it goes with t'he mass of seed cotton through the gin and is 
 broken or cut into small fragments. The smaller these par- 
 ticles of leaf are made by the gin, the more thoroughly they 
 become mixed with the fiber, and the more difficult t'hey are to 
 remove in the preparator}- processes at the mills- The larger 
 pieces may fall out of their own weight, and on this account 
 are not considered so injurious -to the grade, but the smaller 
 ones remain, and, if very fine, are considered a clinging and 
 
70 PEN PICTURES 
 
 inseparable impurity. The skeleton of the leaf, too, a stick- 
 like tissue, often becomes a part of t'he foreign mass. It is 
 classed "inseparable," and is, therefore, correspondingly ob- 
 jectionable. These impurities, as you see, are themselves to 
 be graded. If the cotton sample shows leaf trash in large 
 pieces without the stem or skeleton accompaniment, its grade 
 is not badly affected, but, if the trash shows in the form of 
 small, pepper-like particles, or has the stick cuttings, a care- 
 tul grader will mark it down. 
 
 Broken Seeds. 
 
 This constitutes what is known as one of the "Heavy Im- 
 purities" of cotton. Broken seeds are usually covered witli 
 lint or fiber ends, and these becoming interlocked with other 
 fibers are dif^cult to remove. In Grading, these impurities 
 are called "Shell" or "Bearded Motes." The surplus parts ot 
 body or fatty ends of seed are often ctit into the lint roll by 
 close ginning- These pieces are also called ''s'hell." and rank 
 with heavy impurities. Cotton afifected by these impurities 
 is to be graded with the lower type of "liroken Leaf" cotton. 
 
 (Note if the fungus end abo\e mentioned should carry a 
 part of the main l)ody of the seed. In such case, oil stain 
 would result.) 
 
 Sand and Soil. 
 
 The wmds sometimes fill, or. as it is termed, "load," open 
 cotton in the burr wit'h sand, and again, often it is blown or 
 knocked out upon the ground and becomes impregnated, more 
 or less, with santl and other earth matter. T'his aft'ects only 
 the weight of the cotton and not its quality, unless soil stain 
 or mildew should follow. Spinners, however, claim that the 
 extra frictional wear to machinery and danger incurred from 
 fire render it less desirable, and, therefore, it is brought to a 
 lower orade. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 71 
 
 Dampness. 
 
 Dampness or moisture is not to be considered an impurity, 
 only as it may become the possible producing- agent of mildew 
 or rot. To form these there must be a meeting of the damp 
 part of a bale of cotton with the air from without. Such 
 meeting would afford the needed means of evaporation, and 
 thereby the cause of decay or rot would, in t'he main, be re- 
 moved. Cotton dry enough to gin, if immediately compressed, 
 would be safe fr<im serious harm to be occasioned by damp- 
 ness. Even cotton "wet down" in the compressing or baling 
 process would suffei- little injury therefroiu. as evaporation 
 would be very rapid. If, however, the place of storage should 
 be damp, or if by constant exposure to water and exterior 
 dampness, evaporation should be prevented, mildew would 
 follow and rot w'ould be the result. Cotton is a great absor- 
 bent. A bale of cotton placed over an evaporating pool will 
 drink in dampness like a thirsty animal drinking water. Con- 
 tinued absorption with tlie avenues of evaporation closed 
 would soon reduce the fiber and deaden its twist. With its 
 quality of elasticit}- thus destroyed it is in the first stage of 
 decomposition. 
 
 In grading a bale of damp cotton, if the moisture is found 
 to be only near the surface, produce a specimen sample below 
 the damp part and classify as if no water had been observed 
 In weighing, the prt>per deduction for water -weight can be 
 made. If the dampness should extend into the interic:)r of the 
 bale, the classifier is placed in a dilemma. E.xcessive damp- 
 ness disturbs normal elasticity and he will be able to judge of 
 this quality only as a collateral adjunct of the length and 
 strength of the staple under examination. He will be able 
 easily to know whether this dampness is new or fresh or 
 whet'her it is an old water sob. If the latter, the form and 
 strength of the staple, besides the changes before mentioned, 
 will show rank abnormal differences in fibers of apparently 
 even development. Parts of the same staple will .s'how differ- 
 
72 PEN PICTURES 
 
 ent degrees of elasticity, and an unmistakeable odor of musti- 
 uess will manifest itself. Cotton in this condition, no matter 
 what it once may have been, is now to be graded "Inferior." 
 If, on the contrary the bale s'hould appear to be generally 
 damp, and otherwise sound, its grade is not affected and a 
 deduction for water-weight from the bulk weight of the bale 
 is all that need be done in fairness to seller and buyer. 
 
 , Structural Composition. 
 
 In a work on Grading and Classifying it is not necessary 
 to go into the "Chemistry" of the cotton staple- However, as 
 the laws of Fermentation, Decomposition, Fungi, etc.. operate 
 with more or less force according to t'he physical stability of 
 the substance to be acted on, any one desiring thus further to 
 investigate is referred to chemistry as applied to these cjues- 
 tions, and in that connection, the following structural analys".s 
 of cotton is given : 
 
 Fiber 8;]. 71 per cent 
 
 Water (j.74 per cent. 
 
 h'ree Nitrogen 5.79 per cent. 
 
 Ash 1.65 per cent. 
 
 Protein 1.50 per cent. 
 
 Fat 61 per cent. 
 
 100. 
 
 Porosity is a general property of matter, but the surface 
 pores of a single fiber of cotton are too nearly allied in magni- 
 tude to the atomic nature of t'heir surroundings to give pas- 
 sage \va\ to the combined elements composing water. Hence 
 moisture of cotton is due wholly to fiber-layer and capillary 
 avenues of ingress. 
 
 Dryness. 
 
 In connection with Dampness is to be considered a principle 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 73 
 
 of Dryness, that affects the worth of cotton. A sample of cot- 
 ton of average high grade, in its normal state, contains nearly 
 seven per cent, water. Immerse it in a vessel of water till it 
 becomes thoroughly saturated, then expose it to the air and 
 sun for a few hours and it would show only its normal quan- 
 tity or part of water. Subject it next to a heating process. 
 Confine it in a bake-oven or other drying place till, as nearly 
 as possible all moisture is driven out, expose it again to the 
 air and from that element it would soon absorb moisture 
 enough to have its original normal quantity. It is this quality 
 of dampness that enables the classifier to judge, through its 
 character of elasticity and flexibility, the presence or absence 
 of t'he necessary vitality in a sample under examination. A 
 healthful well developed capillary state of the staple gives a 
 normal condition of dampness. This in turn through the elas- 
 ticity and flexibility of a sample containing it proves and 
 shows the origin of its presence. 
 
 Flexibility. 
 
 As a rule flexibility indicates strength of fiber, thoug'h short, 
 coarse and strong staples are rather more harsh than flexible. 
 A sample of the latter kind, in response to the touch or clasp 
 of the hand, will show sufficient capillary (cavity) force to in- 
 dicate its right position in t'he line of grades. If from any 
 cause a sample staple should show a quality of dryness below 
 that of the normally damp stage, it would be indicated by a 
 harsh, brittle yielding to the touch, and upon closer examina- 
 tion it would be found wanting in some of the characteristic 
 essential points of good grade. 
 
 Grades of Cotton. 
 
 In an American cotton crop of twelve million bales, if 
 graded by t'he bale, it may be truthfully asserted that twelve 
 million different and varying grades would be found. In otl er 
 words, no two bales could be found that would sample 
 
74 PEN PICTURES 
 
 '"through and tlirough" or "out and out" in exact likeness. 
 Notwithstanding' t'his fact, there might be found, say, one-third 
 of this number of bales that would be so nearly alike as to be 
 classed toget'her as one type or grade. Another small frac- 
 tional lot. better or worse, higher or lower, finer or coarser, 
 might be found that could be placed in another grade. And 
 so on, another fractional part of the twelve million bales might 
 be found having a general bulk likeness and similar grade 
 cjuality, till the whole could be embraced in about twenty of 
 these fractional divisional parts- These twenty or more parts 
 mig'ht again be sub-grouped into seven or eight distinct qual- 
 ity divisions, designated "Full Grades," with which higher or 
 Jower approximately similar grades may be typed, to com- 
 pose a bulk lot of cotton of a required given classification. 
 These approximates are designated "Half" and "Quarter" 
 grades. 
 
 The American Exchange Market. 
 
 As an American proposition, l^oth the classification of cot- 
 ton and the price to be paid for it are regulated by a class who 
 have no interest, whatever, either in its production or its 
 manufacture. We have two great commercial or market "Ex- 
 changes," located respectively in New York and New Or- 
 leans. Seats in these "Exchanges" are of high commercial 
 value, and are of a limited number. The membership com- 
 posing them is supposed to be '"strticly" American, but it may 
 be remarked, soto voce, that the supposition is "strictly" a sup- 
 position. ]^>om these places the men who have no part in 
 producing, hauling or manufacturing cotton, designate the 
 terms by which its differing grades shall be known, and dicta- 
 torially declare what the market price shall be. This is only 
 another way of showing our American disposition to bow to 
 "custom," respect established "precedents," and "w^alk in ttie 
 way our fathers trod." But the right or wrong of this custom 
 is not a matter to be discussed here- 
 
S'lWiVDARD COTTON GRAl>IvS 75 
 
 Grade Classification. 
 
 According' to American Classification tlicre arc seven full 
 grades of the niainhuui varieties with which, however, neither 
 t'he Florida nor the Ceorgia and South Carolina htng or Sea 
 Island staples are to Ije included. These seven grades are: 
 Fair, Middling Fair, Good Middling, Middling, Low Middling, 
 Good Ordinary and Ordinary. Fair is tlie highest and best 
 grade and, therefore, there can be no half or (juarter grades 
 above it, but, descemh'ng, all other grades have half or quarter 
 grades both al)ove and below them. The complete table of 
 American grades used until recently by t'he conunercial world 
 is as follows : 
 
 (1) FAIR, Barely Fair, Strict Middling Fair and Fully 
 
 Middling Fair. 
 
 (2) MIDDLING FAIR, Barely Middling Fair, Strict Good 
 
 Middling and Fully Good Middling. 
 
 (3) GOOD MIDDLING, Barely Good Middling, Strict 
 
 Middling and Fully Middling. 
 
 (4) MIDDLING, Barely Middling, Strict Low Middling 
 
 and Fully Low Middling. 
 
 (5) LOW MIDDLING, Barely Low Middling. Strict 
 
 Good Ordinary and Fully Good Ordinary. 
 
 (6) GOOD ORDINARY, Barely Good Ordinary and 
 
 Strict Ordinary. 
 
 (7) ORDINARY, Low Ordinary and Inferior. 
 
 This system, or catalog, of classifying terms i-^ as old ;ilm(>t 
 as the American cotton market itself. When the Americati 
 cotton exchanges first were established, about thirty-five vears 
 ago, they adoi)ted and used the old classifying term>i. r)ut 
 V. ithin recent vears they "have dropped out the fi\e grades be- 
 low Good Ordinary, and have substituted or added thirteen 
 n.ew terms. These added terms are: (1) Strict Good Middling 
 Tinged. (2) Good Middling Tinged. (3) Strict Middling 
 
76 PEN PICTURES 
 
 Tinged. (4) Middling Tinged- (5) Strict Low Middling 
 Tinged. (6) Low Middling Tinged. (7) Strict Good Ordin- 
 ary Tinged. (8) Fully Middling Stained. (9) Middling 
 Stained. (10) Barely Middling Stained- (11) Strict Low 
 Middling Stained. (12) Fully Low Middling Stained, and (13) 
 Low Middling Stained.. Middling is still made the basis of 
 value, and Good Middling Tinged is placed on a par with it. 
 The regular classification in its revised form, showing the 
 1907-1908 variation of values is given on the next page. The 
 difference in value t'herein quoted is rather more basic than ar- 
 bitrary, and is changed as the demand may increase for a 
 specific type of cotton. 
 
 Note: the given print referred to above is not much at vari- 
 ance with the present differences. The matter is therefore 
 kept before you only as a guide to the method of determining 
 grade valuations. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 77 
 
 New York Differences in Grade. 
 
 Cents. 
 
 Fair 1.75 on 
 
 Strict Middling Fair 1.50 " 
 
 Middling Fair 1.25 " 
 
 Barely Middling Fair ■ 1.00 " 
 
 Strict Good Middling 75 '' 
 
 Fully Good Middling 62 " 
 
 Good Middling 50 " 
 
 Barely Good Middling 37 " 
 
 Strict Middling 25 " 
 
 Middling Basis 
 
 Strict Low Middling -30 off 
 
 Fully Low Middling 65 
 
 Low Middling 1.00 " 
 
 Barely Low Middling 1.25 
 
 Strict Good Ordinary 1.50 " 
 
 Fully Good Ordinary 1.75 
 
 Good Ordinary 2.00 " 
 
 Strict Good Middling Tinged -35 on 
 
 Good Middling Tinged \Aalue of Mia. 
 
 Strict Middling Tinged 20 off 
 
 Middling Tinged 30 " 
 
 Strict Low Middling Tinged 1.00 " 
 
 Low Middling Tinged 1.50 
 
 Strict Good Ordinary Tinged 200 
 
 Fully Middling Stained 1.00 " 
 
 Middling Stained 1-25 
 
 Barely Middling Stained 1-75 
 
 Strict Low Middling Stained 2.25 
 
 F'ully Low Middling Stained 2.62 
 
 Low Middling Stained 3.00 
 
78 PEN PR'TTRlvS 
 
 Tinge. 
 
 The Lcnn ""ringe" or "Ting-cd" ;us applied in this classifica- 
 fiun refers [o natural color only, and not to any stain or dye 
 frum extraneous causes. The color of cotton is strongl} 
 marked by the character of the soil u])on which it is produced. 
 I)inj4y, ,i;ra\-. cream, \'ello\vish hrown and other shades are 
 common departures from white, which is the color cpiality of 
 the best i;rade^. 
 
 Sea Island Cotton. 
 
 .Sea Island cotton is classed ui only two (American) vari- 
 eties and se\en grades. The varieties are the island proper and 
 the Mainlaml. A distinction between the Florida product and 
 that of (ieorgia and Carolina is sometimes made. This would 
 ^,ive a third \aricty. The .grades are: Extra Fine. Fine. Medi- 
 um Fine, Good Medium, Medium, Common and Ordinary. 
 
 lig"y])tian and India cotton, and the South American prod- 
 uct ha\ e each a large number of \arieties, but a limited order 
 ()[ grade classifications. In this work it is not at all necessary 
 to quote these points specifically^ as its scope is intended to 
 embrace only the American classification- 
 Grading and Light. 
 
 Again we are brought to the unit of classification, the fiber. 
 To judge ]troperly the character of a sample staple, we must 
 be able t(^ see it under favorable conditions. Smce it is a re- 
 jection of the direct ray of light falling u])on an object that 
 brings it to view, the best view is to be ol^tained by making' the 
 Ime of vision and the line of direct ray to coincide. That is, in 
 homely parlance, we must look at an object fr<Mn t'he direction 
 the light comes. Tn this, the latitude of the American cotton- 
 belt, the sun in his path of aj)parent travel from east to west, 
 sheds an inclining or direct ray from the south. In the open, 
 that is, at the wagon or on the street, the bulk of tlTe cotton 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADF.S 79 
 
 crop is first sampled. Here the experienced buyer, if the day 
 is cloudless, will turn 'his back to the sun, and proceed with hl^ 
 inspection- But if the day should be partly cloudy, so that 
 direct rays from the sun would be obstructed, he would turn 
 from the sun to the largest belt of open skylight presented, to 
 obtain its reHectcd rays as a best light for examination. On 
 the outside, 'however, the eye of the experienced or inexpeii- 
 cnced examiner would doubtless accommodate itself to the 
 best light CDudilions, the only difference beingthat the exam- 
 iner with cx])cricnce would tal:?e his position naturally and 
 (juickly, whereas the other might move in the line of experi- 
 ment. Off the street — within walls or under shelter — with sam- 
 ples on the board, the item of good light is all important. Light 
 openings admitting direct rays from the south southeast or 
 southwest, are usually too beaming. Similar objection may 
 be raised to the overhead light, on account of its "borrowed" 
 glare. The besi light, then, is that to be reflected on a bright 
 day from an open clear expanse of northern skylight. This 
 affords a soft mellow light, such as enables the examiner to 
 discern the shades of color. 
 
 Color. 
 
 The highest grade of cotton is naturally bleached and must 
 be perfectly white. Cotton having a corresponding quality of 
 staple, cleanliness, flexibility ,and general purity, but showing 
 a gray, cream, or brownish cast, would be considered "off 
 color," or, as it is termed in the newer classification, "Tinged-" 
 Cotton that is tinged cannot be classed with any one of the 
 highest four grades — that is, with h^air. Strict Middling Fair, 
 Middling Fair and l')arely Middling Fair. The name, ''Fair," 
 being given to these grades, as we may understand, precludes 
 the possibility of "'Tinge." Cottons of equivalent grade in 
 every particular, except color, vary about one-half cent per 
 pound in favor of the white grade. In the "Grade List" issued 
 by the New York Cotton Exchange September, 1907, Good 
 Middling was rated one-half cent higher than Middling- On 
 6 
 
80 PEN PICTURES 
 
 the same list Good Middling Tinged is given the same value 
 as Middling Untinged. This order of difference in value pre- 
 vails throughout the list and is to be accepted as a law whicTi 
 fixes the color variation of value at about one half cent i)er 
 pound. 
 
 Vision and Touch. • • 
 Vision and touch are the co-operative agents in the work of 
 classification. The eye and the hand move in harmony to a 
 quick and practical decision. A representative sample is pro- 
 cured by t'he examiner. He plucks from the larger parcel a 
 smaller quantity in a seemingly careless manner, yet he gives 
 the very closest observation to the particles of fiber as they 
 may kink, twist about, cling together, and show such other 
 characteristic resistance or yielding to separation as would 
 indicate certain points of grade. H:e compresses the detached 
 smaller part in his single hand, noting the easy pliability, vel- 
 vety softness, naturally live moist touch, or, as it may be 
 their opposites, harshness, dryness and brittleness. judging in 
 a moment the presence or absence of that flexibility, elasticity 
 and responsiveness which give vigor and strength to the sta- 
 ple body. He turns again to the staple. With thumb and fin- 
 ger he separates or pulls apart a smaller portion that he may 
 see the length of the fiber, and judge by its resistance to sepa- 
 ration its general quality of strength. He will note that the 
 fiber is of imiform length or not: that it is coarse or fine, that 
 the layers lie in parallel line or departing angle, the presence 
 or absence of gin cut and dead fibers, and particularly will he 
 note the spirality of movement and the quick or slow ac- 
 tion of the ends of the separated fibers, as they coil 
 and move back to the bulk which has retained them. Again 
 he will turn to the general sample. (Jf its dampness and 
 soundness he has already judged. He looks for impurities. 
 He sees broken leaves, sticks, shells and stains, or does not 
 see them. He may find much foreign substance and impurity, 
 and he may find only the few that are termed natural. In the 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 81 
 
 meantime color has been determined, and the whole question 
 of classifying that grade has been settled- 
 
 In the matter of Grading cotton the governing principle is 
 the character of the staple. With good vision and touch it is 
 easy to know its quality. Then, as a rule, first locate the exact 
 Grade of the staple, and place it in that classification regard- 
 less of whatever defects it may carry. Next, proceed to list 
 its impurities. If it has no impurities or defects, it belongs in 
 the grade assigned to its staple, but if it has, note them, one by 
 one. and reduce the classification accordingly. 
 
 Where the Farmer Stands. 
 
 You will observe that under the present classification the 
 white grades range from "P'air," the highest, to "Good Ordi- 
 nary," the lowest, embracing in number seventeen grades. 
 The quoted difiference in value of the extreme grades is t'hree 
 and three-quarters cents, or an average of nearly one-quarter 
 of a cent per grade- Grading cotton, in so far as the farmer is 
 concerned, is either a ridiculous farce, or cotton buyers, as a 
 class, are superior morally to ordinary humanity. There are 
 doubtless many honest grading buyers, but many does imt 
 mean all by a great number. The opportunity is afforded, and 
 the temptation is great. The farmer does not know, and if he 
 is willing to prove his satisfaction with a "top of the market" 
 sale by ''setting up" dinner to the buyer after the transaction. 
 all conscience twinges are alleviated. Let us take a good 
 "Uplands" producing county in any one of the states and from 
 September and October clean pickings of well matured gooo 
 stapled white cotton suppose 2,000 bales should be marketed. 
 According to these conditions 1.500 of these bales dught to be 
 graded "Strict Good Middling," some of them higher. The 
 chance would be, however, that not one in the entire lot would 
 be graded above ''Middling" and many of them below that 
 grade. Middling is the basis of the market quotation, and 
 the farmer who gets the highest quoted price and returns to 
 
82 PEN PICTURES 
 
 liis neig'hbors with the boast, "1 got the top of the market for 
 the most of mine," is the victim. In such a case the actual loss 
 to this one county of cotton growers would exceed $5,000- 
 Yet, year after year it is done, and thus it has become a custom. 
 A\ liile digressing in this line it is proper to state that the 
 -•■pinner — the manufacturer — is not a party to t'his one-sided 
 (leal. When the cotton is ])resented to him e\ery grade and 
 tvpe is priced according to its value — no more and no less, 
 in this latter transaction all parties are etpially well informed. 
 But the poor farmer! Where was he?. In all his l<)ng life he 
 has not had even one little short week to gi\'e ti:» 
 
 A Study of Classification. 
 
 Keeping in mind the fact t'hat perfect staple and absolute 
 treedom from impurities are not to l>e expected in the highest 
 typed bale of cotton, we have none the less a standard highest 
 grade, h^rom this grade to the basis, the middle or medium 
 grade between t'he highest and the lowest, including "Strict 
 (^lood Middling Tinged," there are ten steps of descent. If we 
 should take a bale of our best stapled and cleanest wdiite cotton 
 and grade it ''Fair," there must be some falling oil either in 
 quality of staple or character of purity, or both, to make the 
 lirst descending step to "Strict Middling Fair." There might 
 not appear any additional impurity and the staple might be 
 as good, yet dififerent, and the grade is not the same. The long 
 hbered more fragile but finer filament would take precedence 
 over the shorter, coarser and stronger staple with which it 
 would be compared- As we would come down the line, at each 
 step we should find changes in the classification occurring from 
 ditiference in length and strength, lack of uniformity and other 
 previously mentioned inequalities of the staple. 
 
 The Basis. 
 
 "Middling," the merlium or middle quality between "Fair" 
 and "Ordinary," is t'he basis of classification. Given a sample 
 of white, firm elastic and fiexible bulk fiber having staple of 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 83 
 
 uniform measure from above three-fourths of an inch to one 
 inch or more in length, with a minimum showing- of broken 
 leaf, and without stain or any of the heavy impurities of shell, 
 motes, etc., and we should have an accepted grade of ''Mid- 
 dling." Observe there is a difference between "broken" leaf and 
 "peppered" leaf. The latter in its pulverized form is consid- 
 ered a very objectionable impurity, as previously exolained. 
 No sample carrying powered leaf in quantity, or stem trasli 
 could be classed ''Middling." 
 
 All classifications, higher than Middling, are ^n])posed to be 
 unalTected by any slight impurities they may carry- But from 
 ''Middling" through the descending grades impurities are an 
 important consideration. Staple still holds its priority. But 
 even a good staple loses its finer character wlicn associated 
 with impurities. The quality of the staple falls off. or the im- 
 ])r.rities increase, or both, in the old classification, from "Mid- 
 dling' 'to ''Interior." "Inferior" grades are usually from late 
 pickings of short-developed or half-open frost bitten bolls. 
 The staple is of the lowest type, and the fiber is nearly always 
 stained. "Inferior" has its descending grades t'hrough a varv- 
 ing line from bad to worse, known as "Dog-tails." 
 
 All strict commercial classification lies between the grades 
 o[ from ''Fair" to "Good Ordinary." These represent the ex- 
 treme variations in value of about four cents. l)elow the 
 grade of Ordinary, "Tinge," or the natural color oi the cotton, 
 does not affect its grade- From this pont it is ])urely a ques- 
 tion of staple and impurity. In this matter, if the staple is 
 comparatively good or bad the accompanying impurities would 
 govern its valuation. The whole list of impurities has been 
 given on a preceding page, as well as their respective degrees 
 of damaging character. A careful study of the question of 
 Impurities should be made. "The last of the crop," is sup- 
 posced to be gradeless, but not so : it is only gradeless as it af- 
 fords the buyer an opportunity to place his knowledge against 
 the inexperience of the seller. Where one knows and the 
 
84 PEN PICTURES 
 
 Liher guesses, the guesser los es. The shrewd buyer not only 
 grades this kind of cotton, but he also grades the man who of- 
 tcrs it for sale. That is. he sizes up the one and undergrades 
 the other, much to his own satisfaction and profit- 
 Codes, 
 
 We have only a few very large cotton firms who buy directly 
 frc>m the producer, yet the whole field is covered by them. 
 Instead of the usual terms of commercial classification, each 
 of these firms has a ''Code" made up of letters or figures to 
 represent the different classifications. These "Codes'* are 
 used onh in one way. and that is in t'he deal between these 
 ^ame buyers, or ihcir agents, and the farmers or producers. 
 When the turn is made by them to the regular market these 
 "Code" classifications are dropi^ed, and the regular market 
 terms are employed. Imagine the blank look that would shade 
 the face of any regular market buyer if you should ofifer him a 
 lot of cotton and tell him that it ought to class all around, fours 
 or fives or Bs or Ds. He would no more understand you than 
 if you were to address 'him in Chinese. These "Codes" are ad- 
 mitted to be variable; that is, subject to change, as to the pre- 
 cise grades represented at all times. In several of the states, 
 the State of Cjeorgia for instance, the arbitrary ''Code" of one 
 f;rm of cotton buyers is the only classification known. 
 
 Granting the probability that no imposition has been prac- 
 ticed through this method of grading, still a uniform basis of 
 classification, understood by all, would 'be better- Then again, 
 if. say. '"fours" in Alabama is not "fours" in South Carolina, 
 what would be "fours" in Georgia? If I should fix a '"Code" 
 grading "Fours" as Middling and you should so undesrtand it. 
 and. later for my convenience, I should change ''Fours" to 
 "Good Middling," to say the least, you would not have a clear 
 conception of the market grades. It is generally conceded that 
 a uniform universally accepted system of grading by number 
 v/ould be better than the present, (but until such time as this 
 may be done, let us cling to the old system. In t'he present 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 85 
 
 s>stcni of private Codes in use the numbers range from one 
 lor ''Fair" to four for "Middling,' 'and eights and tens for the 
 ordinary and inferior grades. The numbers employed, how- 
 ever, run much higher, as the lower grades are to be desig- 
 nated. 
 
 A Quotation. 
 
 Charles William Burkett, Professor of Agriculture in t'he 
 State College of North Carolina, in his work entitled "Cotton," 
 published in 1906, comments on the respective situations of 
 producer and buyer as follows : 
 
 ''Ordinarily the judgment rests solely with the buyer. He 
 classes fiber as he thinks it should be classed, or as 'he chooses 
 to class it, and otTers a market price for that grade of cotton. 
 You can readily see that where only a single buyer is present, 
 and especially if that one be unscrupulous to some degree, a 
 considerable loss may come to t'he producer and a correspond- 
 mg gain to the buyer. Naturally there are tricks in buying 
 cotton as there are tricks in other trades, and honesty and 
 business integrity find recognition in the cotton market as they 
 do elsewhere in life- 
 
 ''The most satisfactory selling is done where several buyers 
 are on hand, and this competition, as a rule, means the high- 
 est price will be ofifered. Of course even in this case buyers 
 may join hands and one do the most of the buying one day, 
 atiother a second day, and so on. each taking his turn and get- 
 ting his cotton at the lowest price. But the daily paper now 
 gives t'he farmer the prices in the leading markets of tlie world, 
 and with the railways making transportation to better mar- 
 kets easy, 'he usually secures what the product is worth, or at 
 least the market value of the grade in which it is classed." 
 
 The "But" above, referring to daily papers and railways, 
 loses all its force in the concluding words of the ])aragrapli. 
 which are, "Or at least the market value of the grade in whicli 
 it is classed." Yes, classed by the buyer and not the seller. 
 
TYPE EXAMINATION-SAMPLING 
 
 A sample of cotton is, or should be, a fair representative 
 type of the bulk or bale from which it is taken. It should be 
 procured from a part of the bale that 'has not been aiifected by 
 contact with the compressing machinery; that is, away from 
 the ends or sides of the bale, and from beneath the outer layers 
 composing the bulk. A good sample should weigh about three 
 ounces. The first work of the examiner is to determine the 
 body quality of the type in hand; that is, to learn, through its 
 showing of elasticity, flexibility and yielding to the toucli. 
 whether it belongs to the higher, the middle or the lower 
 grades. This he may do almost unconsciously, as he grasps 
 t'he sample in first clasp of hand, or later separates a i)art of it 
 into staple length and then "opens up" the lasers to loolc for 
 such impurities as may be found afi:"ecting the l^od}- as it nas 
 presented itself to him- 
 
 In the examination of a type, as a rule, its high or low grade 
 is indicated by the smooth or rough character of its face. If 
 the cotton is of a low grade the face of the type will be natu- 
 rally rough. (Jn the contrary, high grades show a smooth 
 face. There is a lacking smoothness, however, indicated by 
 bad "prej)aration" that sliould not aft'ect to an}- great extent 
 the grade of an otherwise smor»the type. 
 
 This is caused by ginning damp cotton or compressing it 
 while in a damp state. In such cases the fibers are often 
 massed or rolled together. The staple is not injured thereby, 
 except in appearance, but bad ginning thus affecting the face 
 of a type would cause it to be droppetl at least a half grade be- 
 low its standard worth. In the fair grades the fibers lie low, 
 close together and give the face of the type a clean and per- 
 fectly smooth ai)pearance, except, as stated, in t'lie case of gin 
 rr)ll. which ma\- show in the form of small ro])C like ridges. 
 
 Ijoth the hand and the eye are used to determine smooth- 
 ness. The sense of touch co-operates wit'h that vi vision, au'^I 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 8.7 
 
 whatever the decision may be, it should always follow as a 
 result of the joint action of these agencies- As the grades de- 
 scend the faces of their various types grow rougher. Brittle- 
 ness, showing the lower character of staple, manifests itself , in 
 upturned fiber ends, small opening lines, and irregular swell- 
 ings and depressions. Dead and half-ripe fiibers, white and 
 sleek, show themselves like little bow-backed worms or curl 
 ing blisters. Trash adds its quota, both in appearance and to 
 the touch. Stains show their natural tendency to kink the 
 fibers carrying t'hem. These, including motes, neps, shell, 
 seed-ends and every other kind of impurity — all — as they may 
 show themselves in small or great degree in the various type 
 faces, show at the same time the smoothe or rough face of the 
 type aftected by them. Then after a general estimate of the 
 body of the tvpe, made in the manner suggested, proceed to 
 pass upon its cjuality of smoothness, and your decision of 
 grade thus found is now to be verified or corrected by a closer 
 inspection made through "opening up." 
 
 Types or samples of cotton lie in folds or lasers. As they 
 ''open up" the true type of cotton is revealed. As the parts 
 are separated every impurity seems to stand up for recogni- 
 tion- Particles of trash, stains, sleekheads, and ot'her forms 
 of perished or immature fiber, including the knotty burr-sink : 
 motes, shell, seed ends and other indications of bad ginning, 
 if they should be present, each and all appear fully conspic- 
 uous as the fcat or layer "opens up." Color also is seen anew, 
 and an estimate of the fiiiish or smoot'hness is again taken. 
 Three "opens" of a sample or type are usually made by t he 
 classer and "'How It Opens" is the basis of his grading esti- 
 mate. 
 
 GRADE NOTES. 
 Fair. 
 
 This is the best grade of the several varieties of American 
 
88 PEN PICTURES 
 
 short-stapled cotton. It is commercially described as being 
 purely white wit'h staple, if coarse and short, ranging from 
 seven-eighths of an inch to one inch in length ; or, if fine and 
 long, from one inch to one and one-quarter inches in length. 
 It should have in either case natural twist, denoting mature 
 development, or so nearly mature that but few dead and half- 
 ripe fibers would appear to mar t'he face of the type and 
 change its character of perfect smoothness. This grade is 
 commercially supposed t<^) be absolutely free from impurities, 
 yet, as "purity" in cotton-grading is only a ''nearest pure," it 
 may carry a bare trace of the slighter ulTsets to perfect clean- 
 liness. If more than a im-rcly perceptible trace is shown, of 
 course, the grade should be scaled, a> it is teniieil, t'hat is, 
 dropped to a lower classing. This scaling has twn ])oints of 
 limit. If the type is placed upon the market upon the basis of 
 a single bale or small lot sale any descent from Fair would nec- 
 essarily go to the ne*^t regular commercial grade, Strict Mid- 
 dling Fair, liut the same cotton, while it could not be graded 
 I'^air, might so nearly approach t'hat grade that it would be 
 ^better even than l>arely h'air. In which case, if marketed with 
 a type lot of cotton centering near any given grade, its face 
 worth, irrespective of commercial grade stations, would be 
 estimated by the classer. "Climbers" and ".Sliders" are terms 
 carried in the mind of the classer as he recognizes the varia- 
 tions, up and down, from any full, half or cjuarter grade- In 
 typing, these e.xact variations stand as merits and demerits af- 
 fecting an amalgamation or mixture forming a l)asic type. 
 This basis of mixture is named by that simple process of math- 
 ematical calculation known as allegation. A type body is 
 worth the smn <:)f its component parts. That is all. This 
 system of grading prevails only in large lot sales between 
 dealer and dealer, and between dealers and manufacturers. 
 The whole cotton crop is graded, first from the wagon of the 
 producer by the single bale, or, as is most usually the case, in 
 lots of from two to four bales. The classer buvs mostly bv 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 89 
 
 the merit of the bale, or, in some instances, he may make a 
 lump purchase. In either case he buys, as he should buy, 
 safely. He grades by a strict commercial grading- With him. 
 the first classer, barelys and fullys and climbers and sliders 
 'have no day. 
 
 All such margins are his legitimately if he has so graded. 
 He may sell to a dealer, classing as he has bought, or he may 
 possess the necessary means and business sagacity to type out 
 his purchases on hig'hly improved grading. If he has repre- 
 sented a principal his purchases will surely take this course, 
 and the second grading of this cotton will always be higher 
 than the first. This reference is here made to t'he drop or 
 descent of any commercial grade, because it applies in the 
 descriptions of all other grades as will be noted. 
 
 Strict Middling Fair. 
 
 This is a half grade between Fair and Middling Fair- Its 
 commercial description is the same as for Fair, except that the 
 trace of impurities becomes a degree more pronounced. As 
 these impurities bring it below t'he grade of Fair it must take 
 its place in the next lower commercial grading If it should 
 have higher merit, by reason of having just a small showing 
 of impurities, such' merit could receive credit only as it would 
 give higher character to a type to be made up of slightly 
 varying approximate grades. A biiyer in small lots buying on 
 a basis of commercial grading, could make special types from 
 his accumulation of purchases that would give to him the mar- 
 gin of profit between the commercial grade and the strict 
 value above that grade. 
 
 Middling Fair. 
 
 This is t'he second full grade descending from hair. Its pre- 
 sentation of color is too slight to be called a shade, and still 
 it is suf^ciently distinct to mark a change. Its staple and gen- 
 
90 PEN PICTURES 
 
 eral body must be as good as that of Fair, but it will carry a 
 showing of the lighter and less injurious impurities easily ob- 
 servable. A slightly greater departure from white or an ad- 
 ditional showing of impurities would type it Barely Middling 
 Fair, but in commercial grading it would descend to the 'half 
 grade below- 
 Strict Good Middling. 
 
 This is a half grade between Middling h'air and Good Mid- 
 dling. In its general appearance there may be seen a slight 
 increase of shade, a small loss of staple character and a notice- 
 able increase of non-injurious stains and light imj^urities. This 
 grade is an improved Good Middling, and is the highest j)()int 
 to w'hich that grade can ibe taken, however free from impuri- 
 ties. Grade is first determined by staple and color, then cot- 
 ton that is not fair can not be graded above Strict (iood Mid- 
 dling. It is not to ])e forgotten however, that grade first estab- 
 lished on staple and color, may be materially afifected by con- 
 dition. Strict Good Middling, Fully Good Middling, Good 
 Middling and Barely Good Middling arc \irtually the same ex- 
 cept as to condition. Strict Good Middling, like other grades, 
 may be typed on the next lowest quarter grade, but if condition 
 will not sustain a full classing it would descend to the next 
 Tower commercial grade. 
 
 Good Middling- 
 
 This is the third grade below b^air. It has just been re- 
 ferred to as the basic type of a group of ascending and de- 
 scending cjuarter and half grades. 
 
 Good Middling does not mean a superior cast of Middling; 
 it means an independent type or grade better than Middling 
 and differing materially from Middling. The staple ranges 
 from full seven-eighths of an inch to above a full inch in meas- 
 ure of length. Its color varies from t'he white of nearly Fair 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 91 
 
 down through the wavings of white to a rich creamy cast, 
 readily distinguished from the colorings known as tinges, 
 and brighter in luster than the pallor-like w'hiteness belonging 
 to the grade of Middling. Good Middling, bodied on its basic 
 color and stai^Ie, \\ill carry on its face and in its o])enings 
 only a very small quantity of pepper-trash, a slight showing 
 of sheet trash, a bare sprinkling of sleekheads, or perished cot- 
 ton, a minimum showing of non-injurious stains and an occa- 
 sional fugitive mote or seed-end. A noticeable decrease of 
 these impurities, with fair preparation (ginning) would type 
 this grade a quarter higher to Fully Good Midding — a. still 
 greater disappearance and improvement would raise it to the 
 grade of Strict Good Middling. As previously stated it could 
 not be classed higher though every vestige of impurity should 
 be removed. Any buyer or classer, however, would show his 
 appreciation of so rare a type of cotton, and credit such clean- 
 liness with its market worth- Again, if the color should be a 
 shade deeper or the impurities a degree more marked the grade 
 for typing would drop a quarter to Barely Good Middling, but 
 as a single bale or in small lot sale it would be classed Strict 
 Middling only. Added impurities might bring it to tliis grade 
 as. in fact, it could by loadings be taken by degrees down 
 through the several grades to Low Middling. It is to be ob- 
 served, 'however, that a Good Middling body, color and staple, 
 in each grade that it may be reduced to by loadings ,will admit 
 of more impurities than would be allowed the same grades on 
 their own respective natural bodies. That is, a Good Middling 
 reduced by impurities to a Middling, would open to more 
 trash, stain, etc., than would be alloiwable in a Middling proper. 
 
 Strict Middling. 
 
 This is the half grade between Good Middling and Middling. 
 Strict Middling has been partially described under Good Mid- 
 dling, but only as that grade reduced. Strict Middling proper 
 
92 PEN PICTURES 
 
 is not so bright in color as Good Middling, but lighter than its 
 basic grade, Middling- It will be mentioned again in the 
 grades grouped around Middling. It is to be noted that Strict 
 Middling bodied on Middling or on Good Middling, as it may 
 be raised from the one or reduced to the other, would be 
 allowed more or less impurities according as its color and sta- 
 ple approached the higher or lower grade. It 'has been claimed 
 that the white of Strict Middling is a distinct grade color, but 
 this play of mergings from both Middling behivv and Good 
 Middling above would seem to annul such assumption. Strict 
 Middling as an independent grade in body, color and impurity 
 is to be treated as other grade» in typing and scaling down 
 for grade 
 
 Middling. 
 
 This grade is t'he l^asis of all cotton classification through- 
 out the commercial world. (See Cotton Grader.) Its stand- 
 ard staple is from above three-fourths of an inch to one inch 
 or more in length, and its defined color is a pale, clean, uni- 
 form white — not so bright as the hig'her grades, but yet a pure 
 untinged white. In this central grade-color many minute de- 
 grees of variation are embraced, ascending and descending 
 each a half grade. These variations in ten thousand or more 
 specimen types of Middling would show, probably, no two ex- 
 actly the same, still t'he color ((uality of Middling would be 
 manifest in each. Of course, this standard of color does not 
 apply in case of reduced higher grades, as a Fair type could be 
 brought to the grade of Middling through loadings. Mid- 
 dling is the representative type of the bulk of the American 
 .cotton crop. Its name implies t'he ''most of the kind." as cot- 
 ton is considered a kind of product. It is not the average 
 grade, as supiposed, but it is so called for vhe reason that in 
 point of body, color, and cleanliness it shows the character of 
 the bulk of cotton gathered and prepared for the market. This 
 being the case, it would seem that as no two seasons produce 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 93 
 
 exactly t'he same Middling crop we should have no standard 
 Middling grade. But a standard has been established by aver- 
 aging the output of varying seasons, and though this varying 
 may sometimes be much above and at others much below the 
 average, the standard is maintained. 
 
 With a good type of Middling in 'hand, after proving its 
 body and color, observe closely the quantity and the kind of 
 loadings to be allowed. Particles of peppered trash will show 
 here and there, not in quantity, but sufificient to be passed up- 
 on in grading, as "too much" or ''allowable" as its quantity 
 may measure. With a type to guide, it will be seen that a 
 bare pronounced presence is all that is allowable. Sheet irasTi 
 or larger parts of leaf trash, being less harmful, may show a 
 little more boldly conspicuous. Sleekheads or immature sta- 
 ple and a little bad ginning are to be looked for; but if too 
 much of the former is seen it would suggest a second and more 
 careful examination of the body. Stains, just enough not to 
 mar the white face of t'he type, may be passed over. An ex- 
 tra clean grade of Middling may be classed with Strict Mid- 
 dling; likewise if the type is found below the standard it 
 should be classed Strict Low Middling. Middling, in typing, 
 will embrace these two grades, but under no circumstances 
 will the smutty pufif or blue tinge be carried in a white Mid- 
 dling type. 
 
 Strict Low Middling. 
 
 This is a half grade below Middling, and has just been par- 
 tially described. In staple and color it is below Middling. 
 It, of course, carries a larger quota of impurities. Often this 
 grade is found comparatively clean, l)ut on account of its body 
 and color it can not be graded above Barely Middling. A 
 small s'howing of smutty puff, blue tinge, or what is in some 
 localities termed ''smoky cotton," can be carried in this grade. 
 
 Low Middling. 
 
 This grade has a similar staple and body to that of Strict 
 
94 ' PEN PICTURES 
 
 Low Middling, but with this g;rade the darker tinges, deeper 
 stains and heavier impurities show their presence. It is an 
 easy grade to place; its color and staple raising it above the 
 ordinary grades, and its impurities dropping it to the lowest 
 of t'he Middling grades. 
 
 Strict Good Ordinary. 
 
 While this is chissed as a half grade, it has the independent 
 characteristics of a full grade. It may show comparatively 
 good staple and basic color as good as Middling, and yet by 
 stains, trash and other impurities be graded down. It is gen- 
 erally a body of late pickings of good cotton stained by field 
 exposure, mixed with the later immature openings that 'have 
 been alTected by frost. When little of the latter named mix- 
 ture appears, and the type shows no blue tinge, and is other- 
 wise fairly clean, classers sometimes place it in the grade of 
 Middling Stained. 
 
 Good Ordinary. 
 
 This is, at present (season 1908-1909), the lowest commer- 
 cial White Grade. It carries t'he darkest shade of white min- 
 gled with the full list of stains. It is only recpiired that its 
 staple shall be sound, by not being overloaded with decayed 
 lower pod ends, known as sink stains, or by other indications 
 of damaged fiber. It embraces the former commercial grades 
 below it, and is, therefore, now a lower type than it was for- 
 merly. But there is a limit to its loadings and after this limit 
 is passed, "tailinjs" or "dog-tails" is t'he assigned classification. 
 
 Inferior Cotton. 
 
 A surprisingly large percentage of the American cotton crop 
 falls below the commercial grades. Many firms of buyers and 
 single buyers deal only in these low grades. The largest 
 profits are made and a season of storms or a late and bad bar- 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 95 
 
 vest means a bonanza of financial prosperity to them. The 
 knowledge of the experienced cotton-classer is good capital in 
 this field. 
 
 Tinges and Stains, 
 
 Tn recent classification we 'have only six grades of Tinged 
 and one of Stained. The tinges range from Strict Goi^d 
 Middling to Low Middling, including all half grades. Mid- 
 dling is the only grade of stained. It is a cleanly-gathered, 
 well-ginned, neatly-prepared output of cotton that has been 
 left ungathered too long after maturity. The stain is princi- 
 pally a burr and foliage weather mark. It will carry a greater 
 degree of loadings than Middling white, thoug'h it is often 
 found much r'eaner. 
 
 In the lower grades of tinges harmless stains are often al- 
 lowed to such a degree that the grade would appear to be mis- 
 named, but the character of tinge may be easily determined. 
 The same quantity of stain on a w'hite base would show a more 
 pronounced character of color. The lightest tinge is (sup- 
 posedly) seen in Strict Good Middling. Of course, no tinge 
 could be classed higher. From this type the shades of tinge 
 deepen by degrees to Low Middling. The parenthetic word 
 (supposedly) may be thus explained: A good bodied type of 
 deep tinge may be graded 'higher than a lighter type of poorer 
 quality. 
 
 Any grade body of tinged or stained cotton will carry a 
 greater degree of impurities than a similar grade body on a 
 white ibase — a difference of about a half grade being allowed. 
 For instance, a Strict Middling white, with its poorer body 
 and allowed quota of impurities, if tinged, could be graded a 
 Good Middling. This is done to compensate for the differ- 
 ence made in the market value of whites and tinges. Thus, 
 Strict Middling w'hite is worth one-quarter of a cent above the 
 basis value — the same grade, tinged, though raised to the 
 grade of Good Middling, would have the basis value only. 
 
 7 
 
96 PEN PICTURES 
 
 This undervaluation is in part offset by overg-rading. The 
 system is wrong, 'but it is an established custom. Actual 
 grades should not be changed to regulate valuation. 
 
 About Shipping. 
 
 This note is added, not in ridicule of the advertised work of 
 a so-called cotton college, for the tricky notices it sends out to 
 snare the unwary youth of the ctnmtry are self-sufficient in 
 the way of procuring amusement. It proposes to teach the 
 boys how to buy and sell, and how to export. Moreover young 
 men who learn to ''export" are given "jobs" exporting." 
 These notices bring to us indirectly many incpiiries relative to 
 the subject, 'hence, tliis general answer to all. 
 
 Cotton must be moved from warehouses, and whatever 
 stops it may make or devious turns it may take, the factory is 
 its ultimate destination. An American shipment of cotton to 
 an American factory or to any other American destination 
 would be termed a domestic shipment. American shipments 
 to other countries are called foreign and are classed as exports. 
 
 All carriers by land or sea issue invoice receipts, bills of 
 lading or manifests to shippers, showing the kind, the quan- 
 tity, the condition and, in most instances, the \alue. of the 
 goods received. These receipts are usuall}- issued in tripli- 
 cate, one for the consignee, one for the shipper, and one to be 
 retained by the carrier. 
 
 An interior buyer mav buv for himself and ship to an "or- 
 der to l)uy" from another, or he may buy for the order direct. 
 He may buv and consign to a factor for selling. He may ex- 
 port t'hrough a factor, or he may export directly. The banka- 
 ble value of any cotton consignment exhibit depends upon the 
 character of t'he shipment and the known commercial stand- 
 ing of the consignor and consignee. A domestic shipment 
 of good character will usually command a bank advance of 
 three-fourths of its stated value. 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 97 
 
 The holder of a large lot of cotton, when he wishes to sell, 
 gives notice to a line of bnyers, making an exact descriptive 
 exhibit of t'he types he may have. The best prospects are 
 selected and actual types, usually a very small specimen sam- 
 ple of the different grades, are furnished. Upon this a deal 
 may be closed. The same system applies to exporting. A 
 manifest of the shipment is issued to be used by the shipper 
 just as he would use a domestic bill of lading, the various 
 lines of consignment, sale, etc., being virtually the same. Any 
 well-stocked bookstore can furnis'h a directory of every cotton 
 buyer, both domestic and foreign, on the globe. From this 
 list a shipper may select as he may choose for correspond- 
 ents, filing with each his business address, his bank references 
 and his field of purchase. A book might be filled with unim- 
 portant details, as to forms of orders, commissions, advances, 
 exchange, freight, insurance, etc.. but there is but one import- 
 ant statement to be made and that is: ''Establish yourself as 
 a man (or firm) of business integrity, stand on a good com- 
 mercial rating and prove yourself a safe buyer." After which 
 all the other things will be added unto you. including export- 
 ing in its details. 
 
 It is easy to get a complete list of all responsible foreign 
 buyers. (See Kelley's Directory.) 
 
95 TEN PICTURES 
 
 WARNING! 
 
 Every page, every line, every word and every syllable com- 
 prising tlie contents of this little book. "The Cotton Grader, or 
 lF:ow to Clas>it\ (otloii." is protected by copyright. To a 
 majoritv of those into whose hands il may fall this announce- 
 ment will ha\e no signhcancc. Uut there arc others. It is 
 contemplated that the information it may con\cy shall go out 
 directly from its author to the individuals to be benefited 
 thereby. This does not mean that any person desiring to 
 possess a copy would be barred from obtaining it from the 
 publishers or through the legitimate channels of trade. It 
 means that any appropriation of the work, in parts or as a 
 w'hole, to be used, secondarily, for the promotion of private ed- 
 ucational enterprises would be an infringement. Let those 
 concerned be governed accordingly. 
 
 N. I. Mc ARTHUR. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 IN THE SPINNING ROOM OF A COTTON MILL. 
 
 On a recent visit to the Georgia School of Technology the 
 author desiring to follow the course of fiber from its introduc- 
 tion into the opening room to its form as finished yarn or 
 thread, was referred by Prof. W. N. Randle, the efficient Di- 
 rector of the Textile Department, to one of liis assistants, 
 Prof. E. A. Camp, superintendtent of the spinning processes. 
 Prof. Camp being informed that the especial object of the visit 
 was to note the methods of cleaning and have him explain the 
 general effects of Impurities, very courteously responded. 
 
 ]\Iany books with explanatory plates are to be had. defining 
 all of t'his work, but such an illustration is not so satisfacto- 
 rily edifying as to have an expert Supervisor go with you from 
 machine to machine and explain as each was doing its succes- 
 sive part in the measure of completion. 
 
 The department is equipped with the latest improved ma- 
 chinery, and though as compared with large luill plants, it 
 presents only a miniature appearance, nearly all can be seen 
 in operation here that may be found in the large factories. 
 
 Prof. Camp was asked to write out in the saiue homely lan- 
 guage of his explanations all that he had so courteously told. 
 Tliis he kindlv agreed to do and complying, his written state- 
 ment is herewith given, with the hope that it will prove in- 
 structive to those who may read it. 
 
 Cotton Manufacturing. 
 
 By Prof. E. A. Camp. 
 
 Cotton manufacturing comprises a great number of pro- 
 cesses ; and these vary, according to. the product desired, so 
 much that it will be impossible to give t'hem to fit all cases. I 
 therefore will mention only those most generally used. In 
 
100 PEN PICTURES 
 
 the yarn mills (those which do not contain looms) the cotton 
 passes throu.q'h about as follows: 
 
 The ties and ba,^ging being removed the coiton is mixed; 
 contents of several U^ales placed together, so that there will 
 be uniformity in staple and color. It is very necessary that 
 there will be uniformity in staple (length) as it is impossible 
 to set the drawing rolls of the machines to work different 
 lengths of staple at the same time. If set for t'he long, many 
 of the short libers fall out as waste ; and, if set for the short, 
 the long ones will be broken and then fall out. 
 
 There are means provided for the adjustment or setting of 
 these rolls in the various machines, but it is a rather difficult 
 operation. Therefore when properly set, it is advisable to run 
 about the same average length of staple, and not alter the 
 settings. The cotton is taken from the mixing bin or room 
 and passed through a machine to open it ui chorougMy and 
 feed it to the Lapper. The object of the Lapper is to sep- 
 arate the ffbers. remove many of the impurities (in the form of 
 dust, motes, leaf, stem, sand, etc.) and to get the cotton into a 
 lap (or roll) that is uniform in weight per vard. 
 
 This lap is made by rolling up a sheet of C(^tton that is from 
 f(-)rt} to forty-five inches in width and about tifty yards long. 
 The weig'ht per yard varies from about eight to sixteen ozs. 
 depending upon the product into which it is to be converted. 
 
 There are usually three lapping processes used, viz. : break- 
 er, intermediate, and finisher. Often thougii, the interme- 
 diate is omitted on the 'better stapled cottons. 
 
 ( )n leaving the finished Lapper (or F'icker, as termed in 
 some localities), the cotton is taken lo ilic Revolving Top 
 Flat Card. This carding ()])eralion remoxes impurities, neps, 
 motes, short fibers, etc., left by Cappers, combs or cards the 
 fibers, and converts the cotton inio a Sliver (rope form). Six 
 card slivers are placed at the back of t'he first drawing frame, 
 and passed through, side by side, converging at the front of 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 101 
 
 the machine into one strand or Sliver. The weight per yard 
 of the latter is abont equal to the weight of a single strand 
 at the back of a mac'hine ; or as received from the card. This 
 reduction in weight is accomplished by Roller Drafting, 
 i. e., having the successive lines of rollers through which the 
 cotton passes accelerated in speed. 
 
 The above drafting or drawing out tends to lay the fibers 
 parallel. Anot'her very important object of this machine is to 
 get a Sli\er which is uniform; this being accomplished ' y 
 the doubling of six at the back of the machine. 
 
 There are usually two processes of drawing used; the sec- 
 ond being further to accomplish objects sought for in first 
 process. 
 
 The Sliver is now passed through the Slubber, the objects 
 of which are further to attentuate, to insert a small amount of 
 twist, and to wind on bobbin the small strand of roving or 
 slubbing. The drafting on this and succeeding machines is 
 for the purpose of reducing the weight per yard and not for 
 getting the fibers more parallel. The slubbing is fed doubly 
 to the intermediate Fly Frame, which is the next process. 
 The objects for this mac'hine are the same as for previous ma- 
 chines. Of course the doubling here tends to make more 
 even or uniform work. 
 
 The intermediate roving is fed double to the fine frame, the 
 objects of which are the same as those for the two ])receding 
 machines. 
 
 The roving has now been drawn down sufificiently fine so 
 that the balance of drafting necessary to give the required 
 number for yarns can be obtained on Spinning Frame. The 
 twist imparted here is very 'hard as compared to that of the 
 slubber intermediate and fine frame; the latter being only suf- 
 ficient to give strength enough to enable it to be unwound on 
 next machine. 
 
 The yarn is spun with dififerent amounts of twist, depend- 
 
102 PEN PICTURES 
 
 ing upon its future use. Warp yarns requiring more twist 
 than Filling and Filling, more than Hosiery yarns. 
 
 The number of the yarn is the number of Tianks, of 840 
 yards each in one pound. 
 
 The processes given above are generally used for medium 
 nmnbers, tut for coarse numbers, the Fine Roving Frame is 
 usually omitted, and the roving carried direct to spinning 
 frame from the Intermediate Fly Frame. This roving is often 
 fed singly into the Spinning Frame. I'or tlie 'higher numbers 
 the Jack Frame is used. This machine follows the Fine Rov- 
 ing Frame and of course precedes t'he spinning irame. Com- 
 bed yarns and all fine numbers pass through the machines 
 already given, and sometimes ot'hers. These yarns are made 
 from medium to long staple cotton. To make a superior yarn 
 it is necessary that the Fibers be of Equal Length, and this 
 condition cannot be obtained by carding alone; therefore the 
 Comber, whic'h takes out. as waste, all fibers below a certain 
 length, all impurities, and gets the remaining fibers parallel, 
 has t(_i be resorted to. The card slivers are passed through the 
 Sliver Lap machine with fourteen doublings and a low draft, 
 and are made into a small narrow laj). These laps are fed 
 into the Ribbon Lapper, whose objects are tho same as the 
 drawing frame, but working Laps instead of Slivers. The 
 cotton in the form of small narrow lai)s is next j^assed througTi 
 the Comber. The combed slivers are passed through the 
 drawing frame (six doublings) from draw frame to Slub- 
 ber and so on as previously given. In working the better 
 staple cotton usually there are only two la})ping processes 
 used; omitting the intermediate machine. 
 
 The filling yarns are taken from the spinning frame direct 
 to the looms to be placed into the shuttle, but the warp has 
 several ot'her processes through which it has to go. The warp 
 yarn is spooled, i. e., contents of several spinning liobbins are 
 placed (wound) on a large spool. These spools have the yarn 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 103 
 
 withdrawn or unwound from them and rewound on to a 
 large beam, liolding 400 pounds or more. This machine is 
 known as a Warper or Beaxner. Several of the above beams 
 are unwound and t'he yarn passed through a Slasher or Siz- 
 ing machine. The starch or size tends to glue the fibers com- 
 posing the yarn together so that the yarn will not chafe in 
 weaving. The yarn is wound on to a small or Loom Beam 
 at the front of the slasher. After the threads have been 
 drawn through the harness and reeded the beam is ready to be 
 carried to the loom. 
 
 Many mills take the yarn from spools to the Twisting 
 (doubling) machine, where two or more tTireads are twisted 
 together. From the twister the yarn is carried to the cone- 
 winder reel, etc., depending on its future use. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A FRIENDLY CRITICISM. 
 
 The latest issue of a work on Cotton emanates from Mr. 
 T. S. Miller, Sr., a Texas author. The title of his work is, 
 "The American Cotton System." It is an excellent arrange- 
 tnent of the quoted opinions of more than a half dozen emi- 
 nently prominent Americans, including" congressmen, ex- 
 change officials, and large firms of cotton dealeis, combined 
 with a neat and accurate compilation of matter from a full 
 dozen written authorities upon the subject. Xot withstanding" 
 this array of Quotings, there is sufficient presentation of the 
 author's individuality to stamp the work "original." 
 
 It contains much useful informati()n not to be found in any 
 one previously jjublished work. Mr. Miller devotes a long 
 chapter to the subject of Cotton Classification, hence this no- 
 tice. He names and gives the (market i)rice), grade dififer- 
 ences of the eighteen current ct^mmercial grades, and in the 
 same line of paragraphs asserts that there can be no standard 
 type, nor as he terms it, "mechanical measuren"ient," by which 
 one of these gradings n"iay be distinguished from anot'her, 
 especially those bearing near semblance of feature. A Stand- 
 ard Type is a Mechanical Measurement, a Guide whether im- 
 printed on the memory of an experienced classer or given for 
 comparison into the hands of the less expert novitiate. In 
 t'he name of reason, if not from the studv of i-iriginal Standard 
 Types or Mechanical Measurements, where, oh where, did the 
 gifted expert receive his knowledge of classing'^ The fact 
 that classers sometimes differ from each oihev, and {\\i>A n 
 classer not infrecpientlv dififers in a second gr.iding from 'his 
 first, is no argument that Standard Types < >y Mechanical 
 Measurements do not f<^rm the basis of all cotK^n classifica- 
 tion. Let us take a sample of the Grade Good Middling. The 
 face shows it to be a standard type, and without further exam- 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 105 
 
 ination, novice and expert alike would so grade it. But there 
 is to be a furt'her eaxmination. It opens to increased loadings 
 of trash, and besides stains and cut fiber are presented to 
 view. The expert classer rates it Strict Middling, and the 
 beginner, of any common sense, would not do otherwise. 
 Again a similar sample of the same Standard Type, Good Mid- 
 dling, shows on its openings to be so clean and well prepared 
 that both alike rate it, Strict Good Middling. Hioth are Good 
 Middling Types on Grade but they have been rated, one lower 
 and the other higher t'han that standard. This Rating is the 
 great mysterious "bugaboo" that has placed cotton classing 
 in the category of inspired work. The highest Standard Type 
 of animal life graded in the lines of creation is Man. All of 
 this Type are not alike. We have cripples, blind men, deaf 
 men, and men l)oth Inferior and Superior. They are all 
 graded "Man," but are to be Rated according to t'heir several 
 degrees of gifts or infirmities. No one would make the mistake 
 to Grade a man as some other type of animal, though his rat- 
 ing might scale him down to the commercial worth of a mon- 
 key. Neither would any one having even a 'half familiar ac- 
 quaintance with cotton make the mistake to place any sample 
 exhi'bit elsewhere than in line with its Standard Type of Me- 
 chanical Measurement. If openings showed it to be higher 
 or lower, he would so Rate it.. The baseless, absurd opinion 
 that cotton classing cannot be learned and be as well known to 
 any man of ordinary intelligence within a very short period of 
 time, as it may be known to any other man. is an inheritance 
 bequeathed to believing, uninvestigating producers w'ho have 
 all along accepted this "Pumpkin and Rock" doctrine and 
 method of doing business as their whole ances<-ral line- for 
 generations before them have accepted it. Not many dollars 
 of cotton money except that paid the producers (Southern 
 cotton mills operated on Eastern capital not excepted) re- 
 main in the section of country wliere it is produced. This 
 fact should be an appealing argument influencing every resi- 
 
106 PEN PICTURES 
 
 dent of that section to feel an interest in common with the 
 producer. Millions upon millions of dollars have been lost to 
 the farmer as a consequence of his ignorance of grading and 
 these millions have been indirectly a loss to all the people of 
 'his section. It is a deplorable truth that all this loss has fol- 
 lowed upon the unfounded remark made far back in the past, 
 that a farmer did not have common sense enough to grade his 
 cotton. This remark grew into a popular belief, till now its 
 force is accepted by the majority as an existing law of 
 mental misendowment not to be changed. The producer has 
 paid 'high for the luxurious enjoyment of an ancient custom, 
 and it is to be regretted that Mr. Miller, who has given to 
 the public an otherwise excellent work, has omitted the in- 
 vestigation of this great error. There arc but two parties to 
 the transaction embracing a transfer of property right in cot- 
 ton. One of t'hese is the producer, whose knowledge of cot- 
 ton should be superior to that of any other man, and the sec- 
 ond party is the buyer, many of whom would not know a stalk 
 of cotton as distinguished from an (Jkra ])usli, if such knowl- 
 edge should be based on familiar acquaintance with t'he two 
 productions. Yet the Wand of Custom has been waved over 
 the buyer, and he enters the field, knowing all about the 
 grades of cotton. He is versed in all the signs, winks, grips 
 and |)ass-wor(ls of the Profession, and thougii, perhaps, only a 
 beginner, it is his secret. The farmer, however, sits veiled 
 in the mysticisms. He wonders in this progressive age, while 
 he considers t'he many fallacies, false beliefs, and harmful, igno- 
 rant practices of his forefathers, why the higher native intelli- 
 gence possessed by them did not reveal these mistakes. As 
 he does this he swallows his 'dope" with a smile of compla- 
 cency, and accepts as truth a statement which would have been 
 discarded as unreasonable by any of t'he most ardent believers 
 in New England witchcraft. 
 
 It would we w^ell if the organized bodies of farmers in the 
 cotton section would combine with their plannings to hold 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES 107 
 
 for "higher prices, and to seek the best points of market some 
 slight knowledge of What It Is They Have to Sell. County 
 Institutes should >be established throughout the territory to be 
 presided over by intelligent growers, in which Cotton Grading 
 should be made a study throug'h a system of "Standard 
 Types," and "Mechanical Measurements." Why not mix a lit- 
 tle of this study wit'h the items on the farmers' meeting pro- 
 grams? It would bring remunerative returns without ques- 
 tion. A point has been raised that suc'h knowledge would be 
 of no benefit to the farmer, that the grading buyer would pur- 
 chase on his own grading only. This is equal to the cry of 
 '"Surrender" before there has been a declaration of war. This 
 law might stand where only one of many was affected. But 
 let it be known to all that every cotton producer has a fairly 
 good knowledge of cotton classing and the arbitrary law of 
 the buyer would stand self-abolished. It is strange that in 
 the conservation of mental energies t'he farmer should begin 
 the practice of economy of thought just at this point, by treat- 
 ing this item of knowledge as a matter only intellectually 
 cumbersome. It is not only strange but shameful ; and if 
 the system is to be continued, the several cotton states, hav- 
 ing the riglit to protect the common interests of the whole 
 people wihin their borders, should enact cotton classing laws, 
 operative in the same way as those applying to weights and 
 measures. I have stated in other writings (explaining that 
 I intended no reflection on my people of the Sout'h) that if 
 cotton were produced in Connecticut or Massachusetts it 
 would not be easy to find a male member of the population 
 of those states above the age of fourteen years who would 
 not understand thoroughly the system of cotton classing. Its 
 study would be made a part of the common school curriculum, 
 and t'hough every old expert cotton classer, every interested 
 cotton buyer and every manufacturer on the globe, should 
 go as a lobby before their legislative bodies, arguing that 
 -cotton classing could not be taught through Standard Types 
 
JOS • PEN PICTURES 
 
 and Mechanical Measurements, they would not l)e heard above 
 the reasoning of common sense, and the laws would be 
 enacted. I am making this criticism (and excellent advertise- 
 ment) of Mr. Miller's book, a part of this publication, not be- 
 cause there is ample room between its covers to give it a 
 place, but because it is proper matter to be included. The 
 work is written to be used primarily as a text book in our 
 common schools, but an effort will be made to give it a large 
 and general circulation otherwise. 
 
 With Heavy Accent on the "I." 
 
 Unfortunately for one seeking information on the subject 
 of cotton classing as a study, he naturally approaches a 
 known cotton classer. When he asks whether or not cotton 
 classing can be taught successfully in any of the schools now 
 conducted f«)r that purpose, he is laughed to ridicule, and 
 told that the idea is absurd ; that cotton classing is not to be 
 learned at all, that it is just known, ''felt in the bones," after 
 many years practical work handling it. (^f course, tlie appli- 
 cant for information leaves discouraged. If he had plied him 
 with a few pertinent questions touching his career as a classer, 
 the answers given would not have sustained the declarations 
 that had killed 'his ambitions to become one of the guild. Why 
 men of high reputation for truth and general honesty will 
 make these (untrue) stereotyped answers is a mystery almost 
 as great as the fact that they are belived by all the outside 
 world. Each and every one will leave the impression that he, 
 himself, is master of the art, however short the time it has 
 taken him to attain such proficiency. The answers invariably 
 name a period just a little short of the time eac'h has been in 
 active work. 
 
 Let us quiz a few of them, and note their respective decla- 
 rations. 
 
 Mr. A., as an expert cotton classer will you tell me what 
 
STANDARD COTTON GRADES J09 
 
 length of time is required to gain a knowledge of your pro- 
 fession ? 
 
 Ans. "I have been engaged in the work about twenty 
 years, and I should say that it is only within the last year or 
 two that I could claim to 'be what you might call, pretty well 
 up." 
 
 Q. How did you gain your first knowledge of the work? 
 
 Ans. ''Oh. I just picked it up watching good graders, now 
 and then, and noticing the names they gave to the different 
 samples?" 
 
 Q. Did you begin buying on the knowledge you had thus 
 acquired? 
 
 Ans. "Oh, yes; but I had good friends wbom I could 
 sometimes consult.'' 
 
 Q. Did you make any mistakes in your early work ; that 
 is, during your first and second seasons as a classing buyer? 
 
 Ans. No, not one, but I was very jiarticular. 
 
 Let like questions be propounded to B. C. D. and E, who 
 have worked at this business respectively fifteen, twelve, ten 
 and five years and the answers from each will be in substance 
 that of A, except for the last question, when each answers 
 t'he same. ''No, not one. but I was very particular." 
 
 Let us next present D, who is like the others a 'pick it up" 
 graduate, but wdio is just entering his third season as buyer. 
 He wil Itell you that two years of experience are recjuisite, but 
 to the last question he will join the others in the speech, ''No, 
 not one, but I was very particular." 
 
 In concluding this notice I will say again that Mr. Miller 
 makes a mistake in promulgating through his publication this 
 "'strain of false sonnet." 
 
 For several generations there has been no one in position to 
 contradict t'he declarations behind this grand scheme of in- 
 terested cotton manipulators, but now it is dift'erent. Thous- 
 ands are going out from the various cotton schools of the 
 country, who know cotton and who gained that knowledge 
 from a study of "Standard Types" and "Mechanical Measure- 
 ments." 
 
1 l^ic 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 000 927 470 4 •