^ %.^^ a4# \/ »'^^ ^'^= .^^-V r^""- ; ,e- • . . 5 * A '^^o^ C*" ^"-J^^mk,". s^. .^ .^l 0^ ^o^'^T^T^^ ^^ °-^ »:- .f' ^^ --^ ^^^' 0^ O » • • /^ "^Jk ,0... -r' V' f ' * " .^' . V t. .;^ A .^' ,0- V » ' • »* e^ ^-. o > *> ^. 'o. • ^^ ' /■' ""I "-0 .^^^ O > '''^y. ..^ ^^^ ^'. aV-^ 99 w m&i'* OR- leaves from the Diary of a Centoiiiiial Pilgrim. ^ NM Book ffioi^ i\ m nyyiioti. Beiiuf a Truthful Accoimt of a Trip to the Centennud C'lty via Washington, and Return via Niagara J^alls^ irifh a Graphic Description of the J^xhiMtioji itself. BY DAVID BAII.EY. TEACHElt. Terms : Bounfl in flexible covers, per copy •'^O TH cloth. " 1 00 Agents WaiUed. Address DAVID BAILEY, Highland P. O., Hii^hland County. O. TESTIMONIALS. Cedar Fails. Iowa, March 10, 1877. There are two classes of people in the United States, those who did go to the Centennial, and those who did not. The former class can hardly fail to be interested in reading- Mr. Bailey's "Eastward Ho!" and comparing the author's adventures, expe- riences and observations with their own. The other class must content themselves with learning fi-ora the lips or pens of others, the wonders of the Exhibition. To such, this book will prove a welcome companion. {oyer) The Author tells his story in the simple, fresh and spicy style so interesting to pupils, without attempt at spread eagle eloquence or showy rhetoric. He knows how to amuse as well as to instruct. T hope the work will have a ready and extensive sale. D. S. WRIGHT, A. >T., Prof, of Eno-lish Branches. &c.. Iowa State Normal School. HiLLSBORO, O., March 17, 1877. The perusal of the advanced sheets of "Eastward Ho!" has given me great pleasure. The work describes the Great Centennial Ex- position, as seen by one of our fellow-citizens, and is highly cred- itable to him as an author. Tlie chapters on "Washington City" and "Two Days in the Art Gallery," are particularly enjoyable. The work is written in a pleasing style, and is faithful and correct in its descriptions It deserves a large sale. . H. S. DOGGETT. Superintendent Union Schools, Hillsboro, O. MoEROw, O , March 17, 1877. Mr. Bailey — Dear Sir: Having examined your new book, enti- tled "Eastward Ho!" and being familiar with the route described therein, I can unhesitatingly recommend it to the public, as an accurate, interesting and instructive work. Yours Truly, T. J. WYSCARVER, Superintendent of Union Schools, Morrow, O. Hillsboro, O., March 29, 1877. I have read with care the sheets of Mr. Bailey's book, as they were passing through the press, and can heartily endorse the fa- vorable opinions above given. His descriptions of the Centennial Exhibition are remarkably accurate and life-like, and the entire work is written in a natural, lively and entertaining style, which at once secures the reader's attention and holds it to the end. The chapter on Washington City is especially interesting and instruc- tive. Mr. Bailey has shown his good sense and sound judgment by avoiding any attempt at "fine writing" — the common fault of young authors — and has produced a book that does credit to his literary taste and ability. It gives me great pleasure to recom- mend the work as every way worthy of public patronage. J. L. BOARDMAN, Editor Highland News. u EASTWARD HO!" OR LEAVES FROM THE DIARY OF A CENTENNIAL PILG[[I« liEING A TRUTHTUL ACCOUNT OF A TIUP TO TUE CENTEXXIAL CITY VIA VCASHINGTOX, AND THE RETURN VIA NIAGARA I'Al.I.S, WITH A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE EXHIBITION ITSELF. By David ^ailey, Je^cher. ILLUSTRATED. rUBLISHED BV DAVID UAILEV, HIGHLAND V. O., HIGHLAND COUNTY, O. 1877. )l 7-q *N Entei-ed according to Act of Csngrese, in the year ISTd, n y DAVID BAILEY, in the Office ol ttie Librarinn of CoiigrcsF, Washington, D. C. I-'BISTED AT THE nionUiND JJEWS OFFICE, UILLSBDIIO, O. ." '~'.y Dedication. 10 WI55 iRUt HOLBfiOOk, flrofi\?j.^oi[ of \\K'm\i pncjungofj in Ik |Jatioiinl ^'onnal m'ltool, l^ebnnou, :|Phio, J J J I.N THE HOPE THAT SHE WILL REMEMBER HIS ERRORS AS A PUPIL, AND BE PLEASED WITH THE IMPROVEMENT SHOWN HEREIN, THIS LITTLE WORK IH RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, B~^ THE J^TJTHIOIR. Preface Critic, this book is not -written for yon. You may waste your time upon it if you choose, but the writer makes no pretensions to literary ability. His greatest ambition in this direction is, to spell all the hard words correctly, to make the finite verbs agree with their subjects, and pronouns with their antecedents. "Why write at all, then f Well, why shouldn't a book be written once in a great while, which the people can read understandingly ? This book is writ- ten for the people — the common people, who know little and care less about rhetoric — the country people, "of whom I am which." Teacher, the author would invite your attention to his effort. As a teacher he wrote, and it was for his school that he wrcti it. Not until he had written a good portion of it, did he think of publish- ing. His object was to prevent tardiness. You may think, when you have read the book, that his pupils would remain away, that they might not hear it, but ho would assure you that, with appro- priate stereoscopic illustrations, it was interesting to the7ii, how- ever dull it may be to you. To you, he would recommend it as a sample of what a Normal Teacher will do to interest his little country school. To the general reader, the author would say, that he has striven to make the book entertaining. He feels that, in some cases, he ran too much into the catalogue style, but when you remember that it was through his desire to tell you all he saw, he hopes to be excused. Believing that the great question with every American is: "What did it cost T he has, when convenient, given the cost of the articles described. If you visited the Exhibition, the author hopes that ho has so written that, when you wish to tell a friend what you saw, you will refer to the book to refresh your memory. If you were not 80 fortunate, he hopes he has so written that you may gain a faint idea of the grandeur of our Centenni.^l Exuibitiox. In expanding his notes, the Author has received material assist- VI. anco from the correspondents of the journals of the day, amonj^ which he would mention, "Tlie Toledo Blade," "Scvibner's Maga- zine," ''Phrenological Journal," and "Arthur's Home Magazine." Ho acknowledges his indebtedness to the publishers of those pe- riodicals. The part concerning Baltimore was prepared by a friend, a native of that city, who has of late renewed his acquaint- ance with the city by several protracted visits to the place of his nativity. Highland, 0!iio, March 10, 1877. D. B. JaBLE op C0NT£|MT3. CHAPTER I. PAGE. From Lexington to Washington, 1 CITAPTEr. II. In Washington, 5 CHAPTER III. Washington to Philadelphio, — Baltimore, 21 CHAPTER IV. The Centennial Fourth at Philadelphia, 28 CHAPTER V. Here and There on the Exhibition Grounds, 34 CHAPTER VI. Two Days in the. Centennial Art Gallery 45 CHAPTER VII. Machinery Hall, fi8 CHAPTER \7II. Main Bmlding and Agricultural Hall, 66 CHAPTER rx. Last Day at the Centennial — The Centennial City, 79 CHAPTER X. Homeward Bound — Niagara Fallp, 86 J.13T Of Illustration?.. PAGE. 1. ladepeudence HtiU, Chestnut Street Front, . .Frontispiece. 2. U. S. Capitol, Washington, D. C, 10 3. Ulysses S. Grant, late President of the Iinited States. 20 4. Gen. Joseph E. Hawley, 29 5. R. B. Hayes, Ex-Governor of Ohio, President of the U. S. 41 6. Samuel J. Tilden, • 43 7. Memorial Hall — Centennial Exhibition, 4G 8. Alfred T. Goshorn, 65 9. Family Group from Sweden, 69 10. New Jersey State Building, 81 11. Mrs. Maxwell in Hunting Costume, 84 CHAPTER I. FROM LEXINGTON* TO WASHIXCiTON. "Singing through the forests, Kattling over ritlge><, Shooting under archcp, Rnaibling over bridge?, Whizzing tlirough tlie mouutains, Riizzing oe'r flie vale — Bless nie ! this is pleasant, hiding on a Rail." — f?axe. It WIS on a damp day, tlie last but one in Juno, that I left home on this tour. The advantages in favor of a through ticket, influenced me to start West instead of East to get to Philadel- phia. I went no further than Cincinnati, however, and I came back th=i same evening, and was joined at Lexington by my friend, Mv. ()., who is to be my inseparable companicn throughout the tour. We stopped at Greenfield to wait for the Night Express. At about one o'clock A. M. June 30th, it came up, and we stepped aboard the car, from which we did not emerge until we arrived at Washington, about six that afternoon. or course I cannot give you a detailed account of this night's ride, but there will be but little loss, as there is not much to write concerning a night ride. You are shut up with about seventy- five sleepy strangers, so, if there are no accidents, it is as dull a place as can be imagined. Thire was one incident, however, tliat attracted our attention. The c:\r was crowded. Every seat had two occupants, with one ex "cption. In that seat dozed a burly mulatto. A passenger came aboard, and there being no vacant seat, the Conductor at- tacked tlie negro. '•Get u^ here," says he. "Let me alone," growled the negro, in his sleep. "Up with you," says the Conductor, emphasizing his wcrds by shaking the man. "L:)ok ouf, I'se got a rebolber here," says the excited darker, now half awake. • A village CO n iles East of Cinrinnati. on the M. it f. IJ. U. EAST WAR D HO "I clout care if you have; get up and let the gentleman have a seat," cried the Con il actor, roughly. Africa was compellod to succumb, and, with the Conductor's help, pulled out from u:-der the seat, the biggest carpet-bag I ever set eyes on. It was about as large as a shock of wheat. This be deposited on the wood box in the corner of the oar, and the scene was over; but the next day I saw that dusky son of Han:, busily engaged in writing. Now you know that the best of penmen cannot write legibly in the cars while they are moving, so curiosity prompted me to look over the writer's shoulder, and such a collection of spider- tracks I never saw. As long as we remained on the train, that man continued to write, and in the evening, when we went into the Senate Chamber at Washington, there sat our colored friend in the gallery, scribbling away as though his life depended npon it. We saw him no more, but we wondered the last time we saw him whether he was a little crazy, or only a natural fool. But the longest night will have its ending, and so had this one, for as we drew near Athens we began to see the first faint glimmerings of day in the East; but our tireless steed hurried us on through the fertile valley of the Hocking River, and we arrived at the Ohio at Balpre, ere the God of day had far advanced on his accustomed circuit. The ti'ain stopped here for breakfast, and such of the passengers as were not so fortunate as to be pi'ovided with lunch, tried the tender mercies of the waiters at the railroad eating house, paying seventy five cents each for the privilege. After about a quarter of an hour, the train moves over the broad Ohio, on a bridge so narrow that j^ou cannot see it without lean- ing further out of the car window than is pleasant, as you see tho deep waters rolling far below you. The bridge rests on a high blutr on the We^st, and as there is a considerable valley on tho Evst, we piss over the roofs of the highest houses in Parkersburg ere we reiich to'rajlrjtti on the rise beyond. After a short pause here, we go on through a few fertile valleys, among which is that of the Little Kanawha, and then we begin to see something like mountains, or at least it seemed so to our uninitiated eyes, but we soon learned that this was merely a foretaste. At Grafton we are joined by tliree or fotir car loads of Centennial-bound passengers from the other branch of the B. & O. Road, from Columbus and EASTWARD no; the West, via Wheeling, after which we are apjain hurried onward. Just before we arrived at Clarksburg', we passed the wreck of a freiglit train; the engine hael exploded her boiler, and such a wreck! C.ir after car of shelled corn were crushed and their contents scat- tered: here a wheel and there a plate of iron, was all that we could see of the engine; tlie track was broken and displaced for some distance; but fortunately no one was hurt by the explosion. On we go, and as we begin the ascent of the Alleghenies we no- tice, as the train winds in and out on the side of the, oftentimes, almost parpendiculiir walls of the gorge of Cheat river, that two giant locomotives are paiEng away with their heavy load of hu- man freight. Here is the mount lin scenery that the whole world is crazy to see. We rush along with lightning fpeed, on a narrow shelf or terrace, while far below we see the tops of tall trees, and, still far below their feet, we can here and there catch a glimpse of the foaming ed lies of the Cheat, as it dashes on in its rocky bed. One does not feel much afraid, and yet, I suppose, every one has a thought as to what would happen should a rail or a wheel break on this steep declivity. On the other side of the stream the mountains rise abruptly, but the summits are sometimes so faraway that they have a dim look: at other times so near that we cannot see the top without leaning out of tbe cir window, which is not at all safe, for when we are thinking the least of it, we are 8U Idenly plunged into a darkness to which the dirkast night is no compirison. and we know that we are passing through a tunnel. We pass through. twenty-seven tunnels ere we reach the summit of the range. Sometimes, weary of the scene on the North, we turned to the South, and a bare wall of earth and rock, or the steep, rocky slope of a mountain, whos3 top was not visible from the car, would meet our e3'es. About noon we reach the summit of the range, some three thousand feet above the sea level. Here one of the engines leaves x\H, though we do not stop, but go on with increased velocity. Daring this ride wa saw but little farming land. Rocky moun- tain slopes, covered with pine, cedar and laurel, with here and there a village nestled down by the side of a creek, in a valley of the mountains, was the extent of the scenery; but it was novel to E A s T w A i; D no! us, so we did not tire of it, as we were Lurried on through the ever-changing landscape. The scenery on the eastern slope of the Alleghenies is similar to that on the West. Hero the road follows the northern branch of the Potomac, until it is joined by the Shenandoah and passes through the Blue Ridge. Being somewhat weary of the scenery, 1 began to scrutinize the rocks with a scientific eye. Of course my investigations were very meager, as we were traveling at the rate of more than thirtj' miles an hour, bat I coiild see that the stratified rocks dipped to the East, showing that the whole crust of the earth had been up- heaved when the Alleghenies were formed. I also noticed that many rocks were of a reddish color, showing that they were im- pregnated with a solution of iron. At Cumberland, Md., the train stopped for a late dinner. We had a hard time to become accustomed to Eastern habits. I told you before, that we took breakfast at Balpre, bat after we got over into Virginia, about ten o'clock, we stopped ngain for break- fast, and now about two we stop for dinner, and about five, as we were nearing Washington, we took our supper, but our lunch box- es were well supplied, and ?''e seemed to be able to stand it. At Harper's Ferry we made a short stop, and had time to take a glance at the old iibandoned Arsenal, which was dismantled at the opening of the late civil war, to prevent the rebels from profit- ing by the military stores deposited there: also r.t the old jail on the bluff, in which John Brown was confined after his ill starred raid for the purpose of freeing the slaves of Virginia and arming them, a few years before the war. Here, too, quite a large detachment of the Union army sui'- rendered to General Stonewall Jackson in 1SG2, at the time fi the Maryland invasion. It appeared to me that a few hundretl men ought to have held the high bluff against almost any force that could have been brought against it, but I do not set myself up as a military cjitic. To cut a long story short, we arrived at Washington about six P. M. and after being pulled this way and that by hotel runners, we wended our way to the Continental Hotel, secured rooms, and prepared to see as many "sights" as we could, before want of sleep and the fatigues of a long journey should overcome us. EASTWARD no! CHAPTER II. IX WASHINGTON. Would ynu sec tlic NaSon'p glory, Would you know the Nation's might ? You can learn it in this City, Ilcre its glory meets your sight. > The obliging^ c'erk of the hotel went witli us out into the street, and showed ns the Capitol, tind stiid thfit both houses of Confrress were in session. He said he knew ihi.s hopause a flag was flying over each wing of the Capitol, as these flags were taktn down when the Houses adjourned. We Uarned that the lantern at the top of the Dome was lighted at night, only when Congress was in session. We walked up and went into the Cupitol, ascending two long flights of stoue steps in gaining the entrance. We letirned after- ward that we went in at the back door, but everybody that walks up from tlie City does the same, so we were not alone. You will recollect that it was now night, and will excuse nie for not describ- ing the building i:i detai', as I couM only see it in outline myself. We passed on into the Hall ot the House of lie])resentativee, (we (lid not have to sit on the floor) and found but few in their places. Many of the Djmocrati.' ni -mln-rs wen^ away tit their Na- tional Convention at St. Louis, and as there was not much doing, many of the Republicans were taking their ease. You would be surprised if you couUl sec this, — which you would expact to be — an augnst body, for tliere is uittliUxj grand or impos- ing about tlie House in session. A man olT at one side, jumps up and says something to a man who sits up in a kind of a pulpit by himself; then another man on the other side of the House gets up !ind says something to the one who ha'^ just sat down: then half a- doz^n men jump up and begin to talk all at oner; tlien the man in the pulpit takes up a little mallet and striks the desk, and all the men but one take their seats; that one talks on, but nobody seems to h^ listening, and you can't luar him. • Presently you hear some one clapping his hands. You look all around, but all you can seo 6 EASTWARDHO is a little boy running out through the aisles. You soon see him stop at a desk, and a member gives him a pajjer; you soon learn that the members call the pages or errand boys by clapping their hands. This is the House of Representatives. We passed into the other wing of the Capitol, and saw the Sen- ate in session. It was a very little more dignified than the House. Vice-President Wilson being dead. Senator Ferry had been called upon to preside over the deliberations of the Senate. He is a noble looking man, in the prime of life. We looked around over the Chamber, and saw that the desk of Morton, of Ind., which we recognized by a peculiar arrangement on which he leans while speaking, was vacant. We soon recognized Senator Logan, of Ills., from engravings of him which we had seen, and after a while I recon;nized Senator Wright of Iowa, whom I had seen while residing in that State some years ago. We soon repair to our hotel, as we have slept none for about forty hours, and ere long we pass into the land of dreams, not- withstanding our peculiar surroundings.' As we were walking down the Avenue next morning, we were accosted by Prof. W., whom we had not seen for six months. As he was disengaged, he proposed looking around with us, so we all went up to the General Post Office, which is situated about mid- way between the Capitol and the White House, between E and F streets. It is a very fine marble edifice, and in it the Postal business of the Government is transacted. The City Post Office is also in this building, but there is not much to see here, so we cross F street to the Patent Office, which occupies two city squares, extending north from F street to G, and west, from Seventh to Ninth, and covering nearly three acres. It is a massive building, and has many elements of beauty. The Museum of Models occu- pies four grand halls, one on each side of the building, so these cases of models extend entirely round the two squares. We were informed by an affable clerk, with whom we had a long conversation, that there were about one hundred and seven- ty-five thousand models of machines in the cases, being models of all the inventions which have been patented in the United States, so, if you are good at figures, you can see that if we had given each model five minutes, it would have taken lis two years to have looked at all, giving twelve hours a day to the work, and resting only on Sundays. EASTWARD U O ! As we spoke of going, the aged clerk jumped up with alacrity and told us we must not go without a view from the roof of the building, which he assured us was the finest in the city. He said that they did not usually admit strangers to the roof, but that he would make an exception in our favor. The view mas grand, and very interesting to us, as this was our first glance at the city from suoh a stand point. Facing west, we see the Capitol, with its magnificent proportions, to our left, while to the right, we see the Treasury Department Building, and, a little further on, the White House, almost hidden by the trees of Lafayette Park. Turning the other way, we see the Howard University Buildings in the distanc9. This University is designed for the education of the colored I'ace. Directly in front of us, as we look to the west, is the Army and Navy Medical Museum, (formerly Ford's Theater, the scene of the assassination of Presi- dent Lincoln.) It has been remodeled since the tragedy, and made fire-proof, but the locality of the horrible event remains unchanged. It is open to all, but there is nothing of special interest save to the members of the medical fraternity. There are sixteen thous- and specimens, divided into sections. In the surgical section is shown the effect of missiles on the human body. Opposite this building is the house where Lincoln died. We took a kindly leave of the gentlemanly clerk, and then went on up to the Treasury Department. This building has four fronts. The North, South and West fronts are of similar architecture, be- ing broken by porticoes, with eight columns in front. On the North and South fronts you descend broad llights of steps of finest stone, to finely-paved enclosures, in each of whicli a most beauti- ful fountain is continually playing. Flowers of various hues ai*o to be seen on all sides within these enclosures. By man}' tliis is thought to bo the most beautiful of the public buildings in Waali- ington, but, where we have no fault to find with any, it is very dif- ficult to say which is the mnat beautiful. No psn picture can do justice to any of these buildings, unless the reader has been accus- tomed to such sights. The chief points of interest hero are the Cash K )om and the Vaults. On account of the near approacli of the great holi- day, the Centennial Fourth, the latter were closed. The walls of the Cash Room seem, at first sight, to be specimens of ornamental painting, but on closer insp3ction they prove to be made of diflerent 8 E A S T W A E D H O ! kinds of mai-ble, so arranged as to pi-oduce a picturesque effect. Thfi most beautiful are the Dove marble from Vermont, and the white-veined Italian and Pj'renese. These walls are built \o rep- resent colnmns, with pedestil, shaf.', eapital, frieze and architrave, complete, ea:-h part of a different colored marble. At the Treasury D.^partment, I left my two companions, and went out into the City to find my cousin, an Attorney at Law and Law Reporter. After a long walk, and two or three mistakes, from being misdirected, I found him. He had been so busy that he neglected to meet us at the train the evening before, knowing that we could easily find him, were we so disposed. He hal just returned from Louisiana, where he had been as Re- porter of the House Invcsligaling Ccmmittec. He was prepar- ing the repDit for publication, and seemed to be well satisfied that thn-e was a species of terrorism in the South, which wo aid pre- vent the voting of nearly all belonging to one political party. As he was still very busy, I left him soon, promising to make hir; house our headquarters while we remained in the City, and went on alone to the White House, which is quite near the Treasury Dapirtment. The President's grounds comprise North, South and Lifayette Parks. The private grounds contain about twenty acres. In the private grounds are the stables, the conserva- tory, with its grand display of ti-opical plants, and the President's House. In the center of Lafiyette P.irk is an equestrian stitue of Gen. Andrew Jackson, mide f:om brassgnns and mortirs taken in battle. It weighs fifteen tons, and cost fifty thousand dollars. It is very imposing, and to increase the (ffjct, four brass cannons are jjosted as sentinels, one on either sidj. But I must <^o on throu^fh the North Park into the White H visit the Georgetown Cemetery. Rock Creek, taking its name from its rocky bed, forms the boundary line between the two cities. Within the Cemetery', we wandered around on the shady avenues until the ringing of the sunset bell warned us tliat it was time for the closing of the gates, and we were compelled to retire. It is pleasant and solemn, thus to wander around throu:;h the avenues of a "City of the Dead." This is esnscially the case where we see the graves of strangers only; then the sorrow will not bo 16 EASTWARDHO! too deep for solemn pleasure. When I look thus upon the mar- ble ornaments which man has placed upon the graves of friends, I think with Bryant, that "The hills. Rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun — the vales. Stretching in pensive ciuietness between, — The venerable woods, — rivers that move In majesty, and the complaining brooks That make the meadows green; and poured round all. Old ocean's gray and melancholy waste, — Are but the solemn decorations all Of the great tomb of man." After leaving the Cemetery we walked on round the streets of Georgetown, that ancient city, until we came to the Reservoir, which supplies the City of Washington with water, but this was surrounded by a high, iron fence, and all the gates were locked, so we could not see within the walls, which crown the summit of a high hill. As twilight began to deepen, we took a street-car for Washing- ton, and in about a half an hour, we reached our lodging place. Here we found Mr. B., Reporter of the Senate Investigating Com- mittee, who had just returned from Mississippi, where he had been with the Committee; and again we sat upon the steps until a late hour, listening to the two reporters, discussing their ad- ventures in the South, and giving their opinions as to the differ- ent cases investigated. They seemed to be fully agreed as to the state of the South, and as I have already given the opinion of one, it is not necessary to refer to that point again. So we spent our last evening in Washington. On Monday morning we had some discussion as to our pro- gramme for the day. We very much wished to go down the river to Mt. Vernon to visit the tomb of Washington, but, on the other hand, we had intended to start for Philadelphia at noon, so that we might arrive there before nightfall, and further, there was much in the city that we had a desire to see, so we decided to re- main there during the forenoon. Long before business hours we were up in the vicinity of the White House. We went around to the west side of the grounds and made an effort to get into the Conservatory, but we only got into a wood-house in the basement, so we went farther west, where a man was sprinkling flowers, and inquired if wo could be admitted, but we were politely repulsed. EASTWARD H (J I 17 Givin<> up the White House, for the time being, we made a raid on the New Stata Department. This buildinf;; is on the square west of tlie "White House, fron'inj^f south. In connection with this, fronting toward the "White House, is the buiUling designed for the War and Navy Departments, in process of erection. The estimated cost of the entire buikling is !^5,000,000, and when com- pleted, it will be the finest of the public buildings. It will be fire- proof, being built of iron and roofed with slate. Some of the large stones in the lloors of the porticoes weigh twenty tons. There was not much to be seen here, and as we were very tired of walking, we went to an elevator, to be taken up to the upper stories, but the man in cliarge seemed to think that we were strangers, »nd informed us thit the elevator was for the clerks of the De- partment, exclu:^ive]y, at Ihat time in the morning, so we toiled up the marble stiir.MSi to the second story. In one room here we saw the portraits of all the Secretaries of State, from Thomas Jefferson, who was appointed by Washington, to Hamilton Fish, the present incumbent, twenty seven in all. After resting here awhile, we went to the War Department, which, at present, occupies an old, dilapidated building west of the White House. As there was not much to be seen here, except cleiks sitting at their desks, we went our way, kindly directed by one of the clerks, to the flag room, which was just across the street to the west. Here, in one compartment, we saw all the flags captured from the Rebels during the war; in another, many of the flags borne by regiments in the Union Army. From there we went to the Museum of the War Department, where we saw everything in the way of warlike implements, either the original or in model, from the Gatling Gnn to the Indian bow and arrow; jn-ojectiles of all kinds were displayed; here were flags, swords and pistols: war-horses in harness, with full equip- ments for flying artillery, and everywhere these words stared us in the face: "Jf(H)i/ (n-fick.f nf interest hare I>ee)i taken /'mm tfii'< case to the (rorermneut Build'ni'i, Centenniit/ Exhihition." Near one end of the hall was a small bronze statue of General McPherson, and, occupying one entire end of the room, was a large painting, giving a life-size, equestrian portrait of each of the most distinguished Generals of the Union Array. Grant occupies the center, and ofl" on cither flank we see the representations of such men as Sherman, Sheridan, Custer. Canby, Thomas, Hooker, 18 EASTWARD HO Meade, Terry, Rosecrans, Burnsicle, Banks, Kilpatrick,_and others of less note. But our time is short, so we hurry away. Passing through the Wliite House, we were informed that the President was en- gaged with the Assistant Secretary of State, and could not be seen, so we pass on several squares to the east and south, to the Ag- ricultural Department. This building is of brick, with brown- stone base, cornice and ornaments. The chief places of interest here are the Museum and the Plant Houses. Of the latter, the main structure is over three hundred feet long, and there are sev- eral wings. As we have already noticed the Botanical Garden, anything we might say here would be a mere repetition, but I wds tempted to pluck some of the luscious grapes, clusters of which hung in easy reach, from the low arbor — grapes which would rival those borne from Eshcol by the Isriielitish spies, and I presume, had it not been for the presence of attendants, the temptation would have over- come my natural respect for the laws of property. In the Museum were models of fruit, colored so true to nature that one longed to take a slice; here, too, were specimens of all kinds of Agricultural products, native and foreign. Thei'e were cornstalks so long, and ears of corn so large, that you would scarcely believe it if I- were to tell you their size; the same might be said of wheat. Squashes, potatoes and various edible roots were represented; fowls and all kinds of game birds were there, stuffed skins only, but looking natural as life. There were speci- mens of all kinds of wood, rocks and minerals. We longed for a day to spend there, but had to be content with an hour, and then tore ourselves away with only a glance at the Entomologist's col- lection of insects, and without at all visiting the Nursery and Ex- perimental Gardtns, occupying several acres in the rear of the building. From the Department of Agriculture we went back to the White House, to make a final effort to see the President. As this was the fifth time I had been there for that purpose, you may think that I was going to a great deal of trouble. To disabuse yoiir minds on that score, I would say, that the attendants always told me when I would be the most likely to see the President, and I never went at the hour named, but suited my own convenience; hence my many calls. Just as we reached the door of the office E A S T W A R D H O ! 19 it was closed, and no more visitors were admitted. They were not so quick, however, as to pj-event mo from j^ettinpf a ^'limpse of the man who has been the best President that onr Nation has had since the days of Jackson, who, indeed, was better versed in state- craft than the present incumbent, but on many other points he must yiehl the palm to the younger Soldier-President, wlio could forget all party ties in the deeper allegiance due to his mother country. One glance at his physiognomy satisfied me that he was a man that "If he will, he i()7/, you may (iepcnd on'l. And if he won't, he won't, and there's an end on't." Before leaving the city, I must say something in reference to the arrangement of the streets. They run North and South, East and AVest, and beside these there are sevei-al Avenues, running from N. E. to S. W. and from S. E. to N. W. The Avenues are named from the dift'erent States in the Union. The streets run- ning North and South are numbered, while those running East and West are lettered in alphabetical order. Where there is a crossing of two streots and two Avenues, there is generally a square or circle of two, three, five or seven acres, ornamented by a statue, fountain, pirk, with seats, vase?, or something of that na- ture. At the crossing of 13th and P streets and Rhode Island Avenue, is a circle, containing a magnificent equestrian statue of Gen. Scott, in bronza. He holds the reins in his left hand, and a pair of fi'-ild glasses in his right. He sits there, as if survey- ing the field of battle. Lincoln Square is to be honored with a statue of President Lin- coln. Washington Circle contains an equestrian st itue of Wash- ington, his wai'-steed recoiling, as if from the flash of guns and the din of battle. We never saw a city in which cleanliness was so predominant as in Washington. The streets, more especially the Avenues, are very wide, which, with the Circles, Parks and Sfpiares before- mentioned, give the city an appearance of liberality. Tlie streets, many of them, are paved with asphaltum, so that the vehicles pass ing over tliem make but little noise. Others are paved with wood (some in square blocks, others in round,) stone and various ma- terials, but all as clean as floors, compared with any other city which we ever saw. You may wonder that I devote so much space to Washington, ULYSSES S. GRANT, LATK PIIESIDKXT OF THE U. STATES. E A S T W A It n II o ! 21 but I would like to have even more. The Centennial Exhibition IS a thing of a day, not without its interest, of course, but every American citizen should be proud of his Capital City, as he may well be. I feel safe in predicting that her glory will never depart from her; and you. ray readers, must go and see for yourselves, before you can realiz3 what, in my weak way, I have endeavored to delineate, and should you ever go there to see the glories of the city, you will exclaim with the Queen of Sheba: "Behold, the half has not been told me." CHAPTER III. WASHINGTON TO PHILADELPHIA— BALTIMOKE. At about one o'clock P. M. we left Washington for Philadelphia. There were ten coaches in the train, and in all these, not one seat was to be found unoccupietl. We were informed that there was an excursion train just in advance of us, with as many coaches, all bound for the Centennial City. We were on the Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore Pail- road, and going at a good rate of speed, considering the length of the train. We soon reached Baltimore, tlie Monumental City, without accident. This is no mean city, ranking sixth among the cities of the United States. It is situated on a basin or branch of the Pataps- CO river. It has been one hundred and fifty three years since the lirst house was built on the site of the present city. The town was originally laid out on the 12th of January, 1730, and the boundaries remained unchanged until 1745. when Jones' Town, or Jonas' Town, containing ten acres, lying east )c:«. All but luT frii'iKlfliip tin- Nation lorjruts : All but lu-r IrieiKls and I heir wclcouu- for;;i'ts '. These arc around licr : But wlu-ri' ore lu-r toes ' I,o, wliilc tlic sun of her eontury sets, I'eaee with her j,'arlaii(ls ol lily and rose '. II. Welcome : a sl:r)iit like the war-Irunipel swell, Wakes the wild eelioes that slumber around '. Welcome '. it quivers from IJhrrly's bell : Welcome: the walls ol her temple resound: Hark : the irray walls of her temple n-sound : Kaortion •• In the cities all the inequalities of surface were shown, and to this were added models of all the houses, the models of the Piiblic Buildings being true representations. It would be instructive to study these plans carefully, but who can study anything carefully at the Centennial? Nobody, I take it, but newspaper reporters, who must write understandinglv about a ffw things. 3G EAST W A 11 D HO Bnt I must not forget the Turkish Bazar, which we find just on the south side of the Avenue. This is one of the many places at which you can get all manner of trinkets, if you have plenty of money to throw away. This must not be confounded with the Turkish Cafe, just across i around Agricultural Hall, seeing first the Cheese Factory, then a group of tall wind mills on the right, and as our train takes a westward course again it stops at Brewer's Hall. As we are all Temperance people, we do not stop here, but keep right on to the 40 EASTWARD HO west, until the train stops at State Avenue, where we alight Iq take a look at the State Buildings. We come to the Pennsylvania building first, but (lov. Hayes is holding a reception at the Ohio building this afternoon, and we will go on and see him. Ohio's building is constructed of neatly dressed stone, from the difterent quarries of the State. We are informed that this is one of the buildings which the Park Commissioners have decided to re- tain, as an ornament to the Park. As we go into the hall, we see the parlor to the left, and the gentlemen's reading-room and the com- mittee room on the right. In the latter room we see the Govern- or. He has been engaged with the Ohio Centennial Commission, but he has now risen to receive his friends, and a genial smile overspreads his features as he returns their greetings. In this- respect our engraving does not do him justice, giving him rather an austere look, though in other respects it is a passable likeness. Just here I would say that we were not so fortunate as to get a glimpse of Gov. Tilden, which we accounted for by the fact that he was at this time engaged on his celebrated "letter of accept- ance." However, our artist has been able to secure an excellent likeness of him, as we were not willing that he should suft'er on ac- count of his misfortune, for we know he would certainly have- shown himself, had not this matter imperatively demanded his attention.* In the hall of the building is a large book, in which all the visit- ors from Ohio are requested to register their names, and we ac- cede to the request with cheerfulness. In the rear is the reading-room, where files of all the leading journals of the State are free to the world. This room is merely a wooden annex to the more pretentious stone front. Notw-ith- standing this defect, Ohio may well be proud of her building. Next to Ohio on the west come Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin, all in wooden buildings, and all noteworth}' in themselves, but we are constrained to desist when we think of what is before us. Michigan, like Ohio, designs to show, in her building, some of the natural products of her soil. Most notable is the hard wood finish, showing the diti'erent kinds of lumber for which the State is noted. Then come the buildings of New Hampshire and Con- * This paasajro "as written a lew diiys after flie Presidential P.lectioii. wlien Mr. 'riUlcMi'* (dectioii was tlinui^lit to he certain. I'crliaps there was a little l>itterness in my lieart wlietk J wrote it, but I have iie\er lelt liUe chaniiiii;,' il. i;. r.. II A V VKS. CoVEHNoK oV ()lll«>. 42 E A S T W A K D HO nectiout. The desiji^n of the latter was furnished by Donald G. Mitchell, (-Ik. Marvel") and it is aboiat the only State Building- that can lay any claims to the style of a hundred years aj^-o, and even in this the designer thinks that the eri't'ct is \Yeakened by the want of harmony in detail. He sneaks of it in tiiis style: "There is a lireiock of Putnam's over the mantel, and above it a new por- trait of the hero, in the newest of gilt frames. There is a relic of Charter Oak, and beside it a smart photograph of the present accomplished chief niugistrate, " ^tc. (Scribner. for Sept.) .\fter this come tlie buildings of Massachusetts, Delaware and Minnesota, which completes the row on the north side of State Avenue, but just opposite jire the more pretentious buildings of Xew Yt)rk, Arkansas and Californin. with Neva.la. The latter two united in constructing one building. In it we see several panels of the most rare woods of those States, but beyond this there is nothing worthy of note. The Arkansas building, with its hexa- gon-domed roof and expanse of glass, attracts much attention, and has a look of airiness peculiar to buildings in the South. The New York building makes some ])retensions to architectural beauty, has a fine veranda almost surrounding it, and the interior is elaborately and rather showily finished. Off a little way to the west is the Missouri building, which makes cpiite a display, but passing still farther we coniK to the West Virginia building. This State has introdneed a new feature in the State displays. Besides the custom'iry parlor and reading-room, we here find a large room filled with various exhibits from the State. Of course it makes no great display in agricultural products, but in minerals and woods the exhibit i>> splendid. Of the latter there are about eighty varieties, a collection only surpassed by that in the Govern- ment building. Not far from the New York building arc; the British Govern- ment buildings. Of the interior of these, we could learn nothing, for at the entrance we see placards like this: '-.Positively no ad- mission except on business. " In the external apiiearance there is a kind of picturesip^e irregularity; but nothing to specially at- tract the attention of those who have been seeing "till the tired senses tiche with gazing." A little way to tlie west we find the Japanese Dwelling, with its curiosities of architecture. The ingenious joinery and the neat method of placing the tiles on the roof, not uninteresting to any one, ha^l a special interest to mechanics. SAMl KL .1. ilLIHlN. ( ;« iN i: i;N( "U <»1" NKW ^■()KK, 44 EASTWARDHO The Canadian building is unique, being a great "timber house." The columns are huge saw-logs set up, and the whole edifice is constructed to correspond. The Mississippi building is also con- «tructed of logs, and the internal finish is of native woods, there being sixtj'-eight varieties used, all from one county. The exter- nal finish is a drapery of a kind of gray moss, which is found in abundance in that State. This gives it a very picturesque appear- ance, but I remember overhearing a convei'sation between two citi- zens of that State, in which the action of the State Centennial Commission was criticized in no gentle terms, for erecting such a house as a representation of the dwellings of Mississippi. They were evidently over-sensitive. As we draw near the gate at which we entered the grounds in the morning, we see a building bearing on its front the one word, "Espana." This building is open to all, but as we enter and see the armed sentinels pacing to and fro "with measured tread," and notice their suspicious looks, we scarcely feel at home; but we see some specimens of ancient arms and armor; exhibits of wood from various jDlaces, and some models of castles, fortresses and battle- fields in Spain, before we sneak away, feeling very much as though we had been unwelcome visitors. From this place we hasten down to Fountain Avenue, and make our exit without more ado, for surely, if a day in the Exhibition does not convince any man of his own insignificance, "there is more hope for a fool than for him." E A S T W A R D H O I 45 CHAPTER YI. TWO DAYS IN THE CENTENNIAL ART GALLERY. "A tliiiij; of huaiity is a joy forever: Its loveliness increases; it will never I'jiss into nothinj^ness; but still will keep A Ixiwer quiet for us, luul a sleep l'"ull of sweet dreams, and health, iiufl (juiet breathiri;:. Therefore, on every morrow, are wi; wreattiiiij.' A llower band to bind us to tiie earth, Spit(! of despondence, of the inhuman dearth f)f noble natur(!S, of the ;;loomy days, Of all the unhealthy and oe'rdarken'd ways. Made for our searchinj;, yes, in si)ite of all. Some shape of beauty moves away t\u: ))all From our dark spirits." ' ' * ' '— [lieats. After a nif^ht's rest, we feel so much refreshed that we sally forth with the express purpose of seeing the pictures. "With this object in view we leave Fountain Avenue near the fountain before mentioned, and pass down a flight of steps to the Avenue of the Republic, at the north-west corner of Machinery Hall. We follow this Avenue the whole length of the Hall, leaving the lakelet with its sparkling fountain to our left. As we near the east end of the Hall, wG see the World's Ticket Office of Cook, Son & Jenkins, which we must visit some time. Opposite the (jnadrangle between Machinery' Hall and the Main Building, is the Judges" Hall, an imposing edifice, erected at a cost of over thirty thousand dollars. As there is nothing of importance to be seen there, we shall not visit it. A little farther to the east is the "Hou.se of Public Com- fort, " where the weary traveler can find everything needful for reno- vating himself. On the right we now see the Main Building, ex- tending away to the east far as the eye can reach; on our left wo see the Carriage and Wagon Annex, but as we pans on to the east the Memorial Hall, in all its grandeur, comes into view. This building was erected at a cost of one million, live hundred thousand dollars, and is entirely fire-proof, being built of granite, glass and iron. It is three hundred and sixty -five feet long, and two hundred and ten wide, covering one and one lialf acres, and in looking at the works of art in this building we shall have to travel nearly two miles. K A S T W A U 1) As we approacli the building our attention is ;ittructe(l to tlio statue called the "American Soldier," from tlic New England Granite (.'o. of Hartford, Conn. It is made from the white granite tiuarried at Westerly, 1\. I. It is twenty one feet and a half in height, and is well proportioned, weighing thirty tons. The sol- dier stands at rest, facing ^Memorial Hall: his huge mustache does not give him a tierce look, but he has that countenance which shows he is not a soldier from choice, but from duty. The statue will be removed at the close of the Exhibition to the battle-ground at Antietam. for which place it was expressly designed, and it would not be at all surprising to me if tliis work of art would be- come as famous as "The Greek Slave.' As we turn to the Hall we see two winged horses, each designed to represent the mythological Pegasus. By the side of one stands a figure emblematic of Music; by the other a figure representing History; they are of bronze, and as they are the property'of tlie Park Commission, I presume they will remain in their present po- sition, one on the east, the other on the west buttress of the steps at the entrance of Meniorial Hall. We were much pleased with these groups. They seemed to say that, though 3Iusic and History might be supported to some extent by the famous steed of ApoHo and the Muses, they should not mount. We enter Gallery A. and see some line stalunry from Italy, but the name would tell so little that we will look, and then puss on until we see something more worthy of note. In (4allery B, west side, we see a fine picture by'.T. Hamilton, of Philadelphia, entitled "Break, Break, Break, On thy cold, grey stones, O Sea," an ocean scene, true to nature. Near this is a picture by Eastman John- son, "What the Sea Says. ' A child holds a large shell to his tar, and thinks he hears the song of the waves: another by the same artist is called, "The Old Kentucky Home," representing a family of negroes resting after the lal)()rs of the day are ovei'. The sur roundings of such a home are truly delineated. In the same room is a painting by George Wright, entitled "One too Many." A ))rett} !Miss lias two wooers, and seems somewhat embarrassed how to entertain l>oth at once. Near this is one by Edward Moran, called 'Tlie Minot Ledge Light," nnotlior marine view, and very line. In this room is a large group representing "The Inited States Directing the Euture of America." < >f sculpture wi- see here ah^o, "Jeremiah," bv Miss Eolev: "INredea." l>y W. W. Story: bust of 48 E A S T W A E D H O Charles Sumner, by Preston Powers; and one of Hon. Wm. M. Evarts, by Aug. St. Gaudens. Passing- out of Gallery B, at the south-west corner, we are near the entrance of Gallery C. In this gallery we see the '-Battle of Gettysburg," by P. F. Kothermel. As there is a key near by, for interpretation, we are led to conclude that there are many por- traits in the pieoe; but we do not care to spend so much time on it. It is a large picture, and a scene of confusion, as a battle-scene is apt to be. In this gallery, opposite the battle-scene, is a portrait of its hero. Gen. Meade. It is so warm here, let us go out into the air. Here is a kind of an arcade on the east side of the entrance; there we can find both air and shade. Why, here is some statuary too — a Psyche, a bust of Michael Angelo, another of Dante, besides a Vulcan, a Hebe, and other exquisite pieces. In one of the corridors of Memorial Hall is a bronze statue by Pezzicar, of Trieste, Austria, representing "The Abolition of Slavery in the United States." It represents a very ugly negro, with his hands, from which the manacles have just fallen, thrown above his head, seeming to be in great exultation. It is .'jaid that John T. Raymond, the actor, (''Col. Sellers," in Mark Twain's "Gilded Age,") was standing near this statue one day, when a countryman came up and a.sked him what it was. "The Greek Slave," said he without hesitation. "Is that so?" said the man. "Well now, I heerd that was purty: but I swan, I don't see that it is; but then it's a fact, it do look more nateral like than them marble cuttins they have aroiuid here." The man was satisfied. If that was the Greek Slave, which everybody thinks so pretty, it must be pretty. But that is wandering a little. Let us return to the jDictures. Here is "President Lincoln's Deathbed," with the weeping lady, the grave Surgeon General, and the sad-faced Cabinet offi- cers, in all a very solemn scene. But here is Bierstadt's "Great Tree, Mariposa Grove, California," giving a slight idea of the alti- tude of those giant "Fathers of the Forest;" not that artist's hand could do better, but that no man who has not seen, can appreciate the delineation of such wonders, either with brush or pen. In another gallery is "The Yosemite Valley, " by the same inimitable artist. A sight of this painting alone, is well worth the price of admission to the Exhibition. A very spirited piece is "Yankee Doodle. " Those musicians, one of them a mere boy, seem to wake such music from fife and drums, E A S T W A n D H o ! 49 that the pei'son lookiug at the picture almost catches the inspira tion. In scenery, nothing- we have yet seen surpasses "Crown Point, antl the Narrows, Lake Caarnplain." But here is a picture which all can appreciate: "The Tramp" is resting by the wayside, and we see a true representation of this class of our population. This completes our list of paintings by our own artists. In the "Chii'ot Race," by A. Wagner, London, we see horses so true to life, that the beholder almost expects to see them move ofif at a break-neck pace. In the same gallery is n painting which has a humorous side. There are two dogs, a kitten and a monkey. The latter, probably out of pure meanness, has spilled a pan of milk, from which its friends were hoping to have their breakfasts. The droll look of the monkey, as he sees the disappointment of his companions, will provoke a smile. The picture is called "There's many a Slip 'twixt the Cup and the Lip." A picture which attracts a great deal of attention ig Friths "Marriage of H. R. H. the Prince of Wales. ' The portraits are good, the coloring is rich, and it is a marriage scene. This would attract attention, even if he were not the Queen's son. Another by the same artist, which is even better, though it does not at- tract so much attention, is "The Railway Station." It is time to life, and any one who has seen and been a part of such a crowd, knows what it is. To others it cannot be described. Sir E Iwin Landsesr (late Royal Artist) has several pictures in the English Department, nearly all of animals. "The Traveled Monkey" seems to be telling of his exploits to attentive auditors of his own race. "The Study of a Lion" is ver}' good, though it makes no pretensions to being more than a study. "The Death of Cleopatra," by Prinsep, is a noticeable picture, especially to those who have been impressed by the story of her tragical end. Another i)icture in the English Department, which attracts the attention of those versed in classical lore, is Riviere's "Circe and the Companions of Ulysses." Homer would have us believe that as Ulysses, .son of Laertes and King of Ithic;i, was returning from the Trojan War, in which he ha 1 distinguished himself, he was cast up- on the Island of .E:ea. the home of Circe, daughter of the Sun and Perse. This personage had the ability to convert men into swine when she could get them into her power. The Compan- ions of Ulysses, while exploring the Island, by partaking of a repast that she had prepared for their benefit, were brought un- der her control, and she immediatelv changed them into swine. >0 E A S T AV A R D H O ! This pliase of the story, the artist ilhistrates. The lean, hungr^'-lookinfj hoj]fs crowd around and rnb against her, as hungry hogs will. There is nothing to be learned from this picture, un- less the story be taken in the allegorical sense, that men make hogs of themselves by drinking; nor is it specially beautiful, but I supi^ose our rural friends appreciate it, for one of them is said to have hunted it up in his catalogue, and when he I'ead the subject, he turned to his wife and exclaimed, "I say, old woman, that's the hardest slap old Grant's got yet! " I think he must be a brother to the man who attended a Fourth of July celebration at Newton, Iowa. A friend and class-mate of mine, a Republican, read the Declaration of Independence. He was followed by the Orator of the day, who happened to be a Democrat. While he was speaking a man in the crowd was seen to be inur^h excited, rubbing his hands, and exclaiming to his friends, "aint he a givin it to that Republican?" "What Repub- lican? " said a bystander. "Why the one who spoke just before him," said the man. Comment is not necessary. In "Prometheus Bound, ' we have another mythological sketch, by which we are reminded of our school days. Longfellow fiays: "Beautiful i.s t\n: tradiliinr Of tlivt lliglit thr(niy;!i lieavouh; port.al.s, T!k' (lid classic superstition Of the thift and thu trausniis-tion Of tlic (Ire of the Imiuortalsi: "Kirst tiie (\w.i\ of noble daring. Born of heavenward inspiration, Tli(!n tlie tire witli mortals sharing, T lien the vulture — the despairing Cr/i of jiuin on. cra;is Caufai^inn." In "War Tim^" we have a picture which will arouse painful re- ininiscenc33 in many a heart. An old man leans against the gate, with a far-away look in his eyes. He has a folded paper in his hand. No doubt he is thinking of his "pride," upon the battle- tield. SirDivid Wilkie took up an humble subject when he painted "Boys Digging for a Rat," but he treated it well for all that, and we were pleased to see it. It reminded us that even we used to dig after rats, especially when there was work to be done. Among the pictures from France, I remember "The Death of Csesar," by Clement. It is a very large picture. Csesar has just fallen, and the conspirators bend over him with their daggers. It EA S T W A It I) If O ! 51 seems as though we couKl almost hear the ech(j oi' his last wordt-', ''Et tit. Brute/" Also, one by Becker, illustrating the text: "And Eizpah, the daughter of Aiah, took sackcloth and spread for her on the rock, (Gibeah) irom the beginning of harvest, until water dropped upon them out of heaven, and suffered neither the birds of prey to rest on them by day, nor the beasts of the field by Jiight." (ii. Sam. xxi. 10.) God had sent a famine for three years on Israel; and David, learning that it was on account of a misdeed of Saul's, gave over two of Saul's sons, by Kizpah, his concubine, and five of his grandsons, to be hanged by the Gibeonites. This was in the Hebrew month XImdi, corresponding to our March^ and Rizpah watciied over them there till the rainj- season, begin- ning in (October. It may be true, as has been observed by Donald G. MitchelK that there are man}- inaccuracies in this picture. They were probablj' crucified, not hung, as we would understand it; but th<> lesson is the same, and I think we should not criticize the pic- ture because the artist does not think as we do, on certain minor points. The author referred to above would have Rizpah. a frail, heartbroken woman, weeping on the rock, mourning for her slain sons, but I prefer the artist's version, for surely we would expect something fierce and mannish, rather than weak and womanish, from a woman who would watch on that lone rock for six months, night and day. But what matters it^ The picture is there, for approval or censure, and we let it pass, with its lesscjn of maternal love. In Dumaresque's "Congress of Geneva, 1S7M. ' we see portraits of all the persons engaged in the arbitration of the ".\labama Claims." Among them are Mortimer K. Waite, now Chief Justice of the U. S. Supreme Court, Hon. W. M. lOvarts, and J. Bancroft Davis, of the United States. This picture will remind us, toe. that it is not necessary for nations to go to war over trifies. I suppose that most people have found the drawing of a tooth to be "A Painful Operation." It seems that Maurice Blum thinks so at least, as he illustrates the operation here over that title. In "The First Theft," we see a man before the magistrate for steal- ing a watch. His family is with him, and ju If () ! 55 Though Italy is considered the home of art, I lind tliiit we no- ticed but few of her jiaiutings. but slie takes the lead in statuary. Of the one hundred and twenty paintings in tliis collection, there are but few that attracted our attention particularly. ''Galileo be- fore the Tribunal of the Incpiisition," may be interesting as a his- torical sketch, but it is not an attractive picture. "The Christian Martyrs under Xero, ' is an interesting picture for those who love to think of what was endured by the early Christians. "The Interior of the Choir of the Cathedral at Parma," is finely p.ainted. One is apt to pass it by, on account of the beautiful statuary in the same galler}-. but when once seen, critics find that it will bear the closest scrutiny. "The Ducal Palace of Venice" is another well executed picture. "Preparation for a Feast in Pompeii," is to be seen in the same gallery, and is well worthy of attention, as it is executed in the highest style of the art, and gives us an idea of the customs in that ancient city. The Empire of Brazil has but ten oil paintings on exhibition. The largest of these is "The Naval Battle of Riachuelo," (Paraguay- an War.) One critic, in speaking of this picture, says, that it is as a marine piece what Wagner's "Chariot Race" is among its kind — a master-piece. In the foreground a vessel is seen sinking down into the water, and so true to nature is it that at lirst glance we almost expect to see it disappear slowly beneath the waves. But the best painting we saw from Brazil, was on exhibition ut the Campbell Press Building, west of Machinery Hall. It is a work in commemoration of "The Abolition of Slavery in Brazil. ' In the background are two ligures, representing Justice and Charity. Justice is turning away, in the act of sheathing her sword, as though her work was done, while Charity is dro[)ping a ]nece of money iuto the hand of a poor beggar. On the x-ight, is a group of four ])ortraits, life-size; Dom Pedro II., Emperor of Brazil; his daughter, who signed the bill for the abolition of slavery in Brazil, under a power of attorney from her father, who was then in Europe: their Prime Minister, and one of the principal auti slavery agitators of the country. In the fore- ground of the picture is a group of well dressed colored children at play, but one of them has turned to the group on the right, and seems to be pointing them out to his companions as the bene- factors of his race. On the left, is a group, representing the evils of slave ry. .\ 66 E A S T W A R D U O slave has stabbed bis overseer, wbo is weltering in bis blood. A second overseer comes uj), and a second slave bastens to clear bimself by accusing tlie murderer. Tbe overseer advances, cat-o'- nine-tails in hand, but the guilty man is too quick for him, for he is represented as plunging the knife into his own bosom. This painting is offered for sale at thirty thousand dollars. It is an excellent picture, in execution as well as design. We were not much interested in the pictures from Spain. There were a few paintings by the old masters here, but it seemed to us that there was a want of life in the pictures — that xoinethhuj which makes us forget that we are looking at pictures. The paintings from Mexico are not of a high order of merit, and attracted but little attention from those who had seen the liner works of art. The majority of them were of a religious character. We have heard that there were some fair pictures in the Kussian collection, but as they were not yet open to inspection when wo visited the Exhibition, we cannot speak from personal knowledge. I will now close my already too long chapter on the Memorial Hall by noticing some of the more extraordinary pieces of statuary. One very beautiful piece was an -'xirabian Woman." The hands and face were bronze, but the drapery was of the finest marble. The etiect was unique. It was executed by Cordier, of Paris. Another bronze statue by F. Martin, Paris, was entitled "Ne- gro-Hunting," in which the l)lood-hounds are doing their work. Among the the Italian statuary was "A Veiled Girl." The fea- tures were distinctly visible, as through a veil. The statuary attracting most attention was that representing various phases of child-life, such as ''Eva St. Clair," ("Uncle Tom's Cabin,") by Lot Torelli, Florence;. "Playing Cat's Cradle." by Braga, of Milan; "Vanity." by Barzaghi, representing a young girl trying on a silk dress, and looking over her shoulder to see the train: "Love's First Whisper," by Pandiani, of Milan, and many others, equally attractive. There are many other pieces of statuary that I should be pleased to notice, but I feel that I have probably said enough concerning the Art Exhibition. I cannot close, however, without noticing the dead Savior, with his head pillowed on his mother's knee. There was always a group around this, gazing on the solemn scene with awe. The nail-prints, the spear-thrust, and the laceration from the thorny crown, were all there. A friend said, that as he was looking on this scene one day, a gay young lady came up with £ A 8 T W A R D II O ! 57 "Well, now. isn't that just splendid? What does it represent?" as though it reminded her of something she hal heard, hut could not for the life of her, recall it. From those who were so fortunate as to visit the International Exhibition at Vienna, in 1873, we learn that the art exhibition there, excelled that of the Centennial only in the display of works by the "Old Masters," and you will see, from certain remarks made ■concerning the Spanish pictures, that the common herd did not care to see the "Old Masters." Certain divines, as well as other parties, have been condemning this exhibition, more especially the works of art from France and Italy, on account of the many nude figures, which they call in- decent. All I have to say in regard to this is, that the only time in which there was no sin in the world was when men and women were in the state of nature, and that, if I can read aright the plain teachings of the Savior of mankind, it says that in Heaven there shall be no such thing as sexual desire. That is "of the earth, earthy," and .shall pass away. I would not be understood as asserting that the ^Millennium may be brought about by the uni- versal introduction of nude figures, but it seems to me that this mock-modesty, this unnatural prejudice, is more hurtful than bene- ficial, and arises more from aft'ectation than honesty. To the experienced surgeon, the nether extremities of the female are no more than those of the male of his own f^pecies. So it is with the artist, and so, in my opinion, should it be with every man and woman. It seems to me that every one will admit that this is "a consummation devoutly to be wished,'" and I would inquire if we are likely to see such a state of afifiirs, while we are not permitted to look upon nude figures in painting and statuary ? As we wended our way back toward the west entrance, we stopped to gaze on B.irthokli's Fountain, on the esplanade between Mnin and Machinery Halls. It is constructed of iron, bronzed, and was cast in Paris. There are three basins, the second, thirteen feet in diameter, supported by three female figures, (called Caryatides.) This receives tiie water from the upper basin, which is sujiported by three inf.int Tritons; this basin receives tlie water from a mural crown, which surmounts the whole structure. The sides of the triangular pedestal on which the Caryatides stand, are ornament- ed by aquatic monsters an^l fishes, spouting water into the basin below. 58 EASTWAKDHO CHAPTER VII. MACEINERY HALL. "One hnndred years ag"), ilhiminatinK gas was unknown, and pine-knots and tallow candles furnished tlie only liglit for the long winter evenings. No iron stoves nor friction matches had ever been used. There was not a railroad, nor a telegraph, nor a steamboat, in all the world. Not a se.ving machine, nor a reaping, mowing or threshing machine, had «vor been made, and there was not a printing press in the world that could print a thousand sheets an hour."— [Blade. About this time we met Mr. P., a friend who bad arrived in the <5ity a day or two in advance of us. He spoke so highly of his boarding-place, a private house in the southern part of the city, that we were persuaded to change our quarters, and we never re- gretted it, for a pleasant family of five or six, three of whom were acquaintances, was rather more agreeable than a hotel, with five or six thousand guests, and only one acquaintance among them all. Indeed, we were well pleased with our young landlady, Mrs. M., who had been in the city but a few months herself, and had not yet put off her (to us) pleasant country ways. Not the least of the attractions of the house, was the niece of our host, a dark-eyed Maryland belle, of seventeen, though of course we saw but little of her, as wo were always off to the Exhi- bition early in the morning. At about half-past seven, we would take our lunch-basket, and, walking to the nearest street-car route, would take the 15th Street cars to Market, then up Market, and by that route to the Exhibition grounds. This trip usually required about an hour, but the charge for this seven or eight mile ride was but ui7ie cents. The Market street cars were always crowded, and the pick- pockets were on the alert at all times. One of our fellow-board- ers, a lady operative at one of the many Sewing Machine Pavilions in Machinery Hall, lost a fine gold watch one day, but the thief was taken in the act, the watch was returned, and he, with two of his accomplices, safely lodged in the Station House. But let us imagine that we reached our destination safely — as we always did — and having received our "fifty-cent note," and passed through the turnstile, we find ourselves on the esplanade between the Main Building and Machinerv Hall. Passing on near E A S T W A K D H O ! o9 Bartholdi's Fountain (previously described) we tarn to tbo left and enter the last-named structure. Near the entrance we encounter the celebrated Krupp Guns, from Prussia, one of them much longer and finer than the one previously noticed, stationed near tbo U. S. Government Building, but I incline to the opinion that its weight is less, as well as its caliber. Were I to give the weight of this immense piece of ordnance, as it stands on its carriage, you could not realize it, but when you know that six weeks were con Buraed in transporting it from the river to the place it now occu- pies in the Hall, you should be able to form an opinion of its vast weight. We have all hoird of the great Corliss Engine, so let us hasten on to take a look at that. The entire weight of this formidable en- gine is seven hundred tons, and its capacity is twenty-five luin- dred horsa power, which is amply sufficient to move all the ma- chinery in the Hall; but if we are not mistaken, there are other en- gines in motion in the building. The gear ily wheel of the Corliss is thirty feet in diameter, and has two hundred and sixteen cogs, weighs fifty-six tons, and though it makes thirfy-six revolutions per minute, so nicely is everything adjusted that it makes no more noise than a sewing machine. It seems that every manufa'-turing industry is represented here, from the making of a pin or carpet tack to the weaving of the fin est silk, or the most costly carpet; from the making of the finest movable type to the printing of newspapers and pictures. Down the corridor west of the Great Engine, is Sewing Machine Row. I never took the trouble to ascertain the number of exhib- itors, but would suppose there were twenty at least. Each com- pany occupied a little pavilion, some ten feet square, and all seemed anxious to dispose of samples of their skill, such as lettering, era- broidery, or other fancy work. Any notice of Machinery Hall would be incomplete, that did not give special attention to the printing presses. The old press that Franklin used, more than a hundred years ago, is on exhibi- tion, standing in close proximity to the more modern presses, and the improvement is not so greiit as one would suppose. It eeenis that inventors have given up the hand presses and turned their attention to steam presses. A person does not soon tire of gazing on a Hoe, a Bullock, or n W^alter steam cylinder press at work. They take the paper in u 60 EASTWARDHO! continuous sheet, dampen it, print it on both sides, cut it in the proper places, and, if it is desired, a folding machine can be at- ^ ta"hed, which will fold the i^apers as fast as they are printed, or at : the rate of 15,090 copies per hour. Some of the New York dailies, instead of sending their papers to the Centennial, sent their ste- .reotype plates down on an early train, and an edition was struck off on a press in Machinery Hall. The Hoe Press Company had for sale, what were called Centen- nial Memorial Certificates, that is, papei-s signed by the Mayor of Philadelphia, the Governor of Pennsylvania, and the President of the United States, certifying that the holder was a visitor at the Centennial Exhibition on a certain day. There were Type Writers on exhibition here. The Russian in- vention had many advantages over the celebrated American ma- chine, though it cannot be worked so rapidly. The former makes letters of different sizes, puts in punctuation marks, and uses En- glish as well as Russian type. The exhibitors of the American in- vention had stereotype letters, of about fifty words, which they sold for twenty five cents each, sending them to any address the purchaser might select. Passing down the aisle on the north side of the Hall, we see the Candy manufactories in operation, and we follow the example of the others in purchasing some candy manufactured at the Cen- tennial. A little farther west, is the space set apart for the illus- tration of Sericulture, or the propagation of the silk-worm. . As this is a new industry to our nation, it deserves more than a pass- ing notice. I suppose it is scarcely necessary for me to say, that the ra\^ material comes from the cocoons of a species of caterpillars, com- monly called the silk-worm, but at any rate such is the case. Here we can see silk-worms of all ages, from birth to extreme old' age — they live but twenty-six days. They eat nothing but mul- berry loaves, which are brought to them from Lansdowne Valley, east of the Hall, every day. When the little mites come into existence they are not more than one seventh of an inch long, and are very black. When they attain to the age of twenty-six days they are one and a half, inches in length, and they have changed in color from black to white, which shows that though "the Ethiopian cannot change his skin," the silk-worm can change his. At the end of the twenty- sixth day, they begin to bury themselves in their cocoons, forming E A S T W A It I) II O ! (11 their casket from a thread similar to a spider's web. This work occupies the caterpillar for about twelve days. After it is com- pleted, the lariui slnnibers for twelve days more, when it cuts through its silken wall, and appears as a white or crcara-colored moth. This moth lives about twenty-eight hours, during wiiich time it deposits its eggs. But if the cocoons are to be us^d for the manufactura of nilk, the "worm" must be killed as soon as the cocoon is complete, for after the moth cuts through, the fibers of the cocoon cannot bo unwound, and it is therefore worthiest.. There is about one mile of fiber in one of these cocoons. The caterpillar is killed by being subjected to a hot bath, then the cocoons ar6 placed in a basin of cold water, which is gradually heated until the gummy substance by which the fibers are held in place, is dissolved; then the outer ends of the fibers are collected by beating the mass with astifl'brush, when the ends are loosened, ten of them are gathered together and twisted into one thread. From one ounce of eggs there can be raised, in forty five dnys, about forty thousand silk-worms, the cocoons of which will proba- bly make eighty-five pounds of silk, valued at fifty cents per pound. In Brazil the silk-worm produces six or eight times a year, and a child can attend to them, so you can see that there is money in the business. While on this subject it will be interesting to follow the industry a little farther. Since France has always been noted for her silk, a person would naturally expect to see some important silk-mak- ing machinery from that country, but we found only a single loom, and that was for weaving plain, black silk, and had nothing extraordinary about it; but near the east end of the Hall, is Mr. Stevens' exhibit of looms for weaving ribbon, where, with the aid of the Jacquard attachment, he turas out some beautiful work in Centennial devices, in the .shape of mottoes, book-marker.«, &c. Most of these are exceedingly delicate in sliading, and are of the richest colors. It is indeed surprising to see a loom act as^a print- er and painter, with such wonderful results. Mr. Stevens is from Coventry, England. Two American companies display their siik making machinery in operation, but I think it would not be profital)le to notice them particularly. While we are writing about loom^, we may as well notieo the improvement on shuttle-movement by James Lyall, of New York. 62 EASTWARDHO This is displayed on the five looms on exhibition by Messrs. J. & W. Lyall. In these looms the shuttle, instead of being thrown, is drawn from side to side, and is therefore always under control, as it can neither go too far nor stop too soon. Here we see what is said to be tha largest loom in the world. It weaves a piece eight yards wide, and can complete forty yards in one day. The shuttle in this great loom travels over one thou- sand feet per minute, or over one mile in five minutes, or one hun- dred and twenty miles in ten hours. In the British section are some admirable knitting-machines, from Leicester, also some sewing machines, and locomotives for road and farm use, together with engines, steam hammers, boiler and armor-plates, and mining apparatus, and many other machines that I would notice were I making a catalogue. Every one visits the Hydraulic Annex, south of the central part of the Main Hall. In the hot weather the air was rendered cool and refreshing by the many streams of water which were being constantly thrown through it into the great tank below. Hero are streams of all sizes, from the half-inch stream, from a nozzle like those attached to the hose of a fire engine, to that from an eight or ten- inch pipe. Some of the nozzles were turned downward, so that the stream was soon lost in the water below, while others were di- rected to the roof, and so nicely was the power adjusted that the highest part of the graceful parabola was within a few inches of the roof above. At two o'clock each day the water was turned on the cataract at the south end of the Annex. The fall here was thirty-five feet, and the water was supplied by a pipe three feet or more in diameter. Near this I noticed a hydraulic ram in min- iature, which, although in good working order, could not fill a half- inch pipe with water. Here, too, are several blowing machines, where the boys are al- ways playing tricks on unsuspecting spectators. A gentleman would pause before one of these machines, when, to his surprise, a gust of wind would send his silk hat flying among the machinery; ladies' veils and handkerchiefs would be treated in the same way. One company exhibits here seven hundred styles of pumps, and several foreign nations are represented here, so you can judge of the extensiveness of the display. Passing down the central aisle, west of the great engine, we no- ticed a patent switch-connector for railways. It was so arranged E A 8 T W A II I) II f) ! 63 as to be self-actiof^, that is, the weight of the engine would turn the switch, should it happen to be misplaced. Near this, we also noticed the patent flexible fihafling, which, though as flexible as a rope, was so constructed as to offer as much resistance to torsion as an iron rod of the same dimensions. It was neatly covered, so that at first sight we took it to be a rub- ber hose, but the weight soon i;ndeceived us, for it is composed of wires ingeniously coiled in such a manner as to resist torsion, but at the same time to give it the utmost flexibility. This shafting can be attached to the common kind, and so give a change of di- rection without the intervention of gearing. Of course the usual force of lathes, s:^roll saws, emerj' stones, and other minor accompaniments of an Industrial Exposition, were here, but we had seen so much of them at other places that wo cUd not si^end much time with them. But the India Eubber Works, on the north side of the Hall, west of the center, was quite a novelty to a majority of the visitors. A Ilhode Island company had a full set of machinery in operation, capable of turning out live hundred pairs of overshoes per day. The whole process, from the washing of the crude gum of the Caoutchouc tree, to the finishing of an overshoe, was displayed. Not the least interesting part of the work was the vulcanization of the rubber by the Goodyear process, for vulcanized rubber has taken quite an important place among the late improvements. Just west of this is the Paper Mill, where we saw the whole process of paper-making, from the cleaning and cutting of the rags td the cutting and packing of the paper. To many this display is even more interesting than the India llubber works, for it seems very strange that the nice white paper can be made from dirty rags. In whatever sliape we see rubber, it is rubber still; but in the paper mill, rags go in and paper comes out. It savors of a conjuror's trick, but it is needless for me to say that one inspec- tion of the works here does away with all its mysteries. The Campbell Press Building is a small, two-stoiy wooden structure, at the west end of Machinery Hall. The display here is of printing presses alone, but they were of all sizes, from the smallest hand-presses for cards, to the largest steam press, all of the styles called the Campbell Press; but as we have already looked at so many presses, we see nothing new here. Just south of the west end of the Hall, is the Nevada Quartz Mill, for separating silver from the rock, but wo could see little (>4 E A S T W A R D U O ! here. There are some larpfo hoppers, seeming^ly not itnHke huge coffee-mills, with the grinding apparatus driven by steam. These hoppers, or crucibles, or whatever we may call them, were pretty well nilcd with water. Connected with each of them was a small cylindric^al tank, where the silver appeared in a Huid state. The man in charge told us that the silver, from its specific gravity, found an exit at the base of the crucible, from whence it was led by a tube to the receiver, where the presure of the water in the crucible caused it to rise, just as the mercury rises in a barometer, on account of the pressure of the air. There were specimens of the silver on exhibition in bars, as well as in coins and medals. But we must not forget to notice the Chime of Bells in the Hall. Listen! they are sounding now, and the tunes, as they ring out, one after another, are sometimes mournfully sweet, sometimes provokiugly lively. A person is reminded of Poe's Wedding Bells: "O, Iroin oiil the HOiiiidiiig cells, VVhiit n f,'iii
  • II () I 67 mummies, pottery, «Vc A person enterinj,' tlie IniiKlin^' litri'. \h apt to be somewhat disgusted. It does have much the appearance of a grave yard, but there is not much of it, and indeed I am not so sure but it is Ix'tter to have some reminders of man s mortality, mingled with his mighty works, else it might be that men. liku Alexander, would be thinking tliemselves gods. These ghastly inhabitants of the grave, are of even a more for bidding aspect than those who now inhabit the ''cities of the dead." Here we see the streaked, shriveled forms of the munnuies of the Incaa of Pern, with long, waving tresses, and sharp, yellow teeth. I have no particular notes on this department, so I shall use an item from one of our newspapers: "One form — that of a female, with even, gray hair — is covered with a canvas shroud, wrought with feathers, but so fragile with age that were it removed from the glass case, a slight pufT of air would blow it into nothing. Crosswise in her mouth, lies a cop per spoon; an ivory disc being fastened across her mouth by a cord • encircling the head. Knitting sticks, needles of hard wood, and bales of cotton yarn, are tied about her body. By her side is a miniature bell, of virgin gold, with a clai)per of stone, and several jars, which contained food and water. All these appliances are for use in the home of the sun god. the presiding deity of the Incas. The warriors, instead of the knitting sticks and other fe- male appliances, are laid away with war clubs of hard wood. Each mummy is idso supplied with a piece of dotii for wear in the .^pir- itland" — but if you wish to pursue this subject farther, I refer you to the "Pre historic Races of America." It is clearly demonstrated here, that the method of preserving the dead was lost when the race of the Incas became extinct, more than three thousand years ago. for the remains of the Auracanian Indians, not half us old as the others, are but little more than skeletons, though there is sufficient evidence that an cft'urt to pre serve them had been made. The skulls of the Incas sliow a f lir development of the intel- lectual faculties, but the later Auracanians are of a much lower type. This collection is said to be the most importnnt of its kind in the world, and has been collected after a search of a hundred years in the fifty mounds within the tenitory of Peru. The ex- cavation has been conducted by the government of that State. Next north of the department of Peru is that of Chili, but there 68 E A 8 T W A R D H O is nothing of special interest here; so we pass on to the north to the exhibition of the Argentine Republic. If the Peruvian department had the appearance of a grave-j'ard, we think that of Argentina might as appropriately be called a tan yard. Hides, horns, leather, saddles, &c., occupied a great portion of the space It was here that the wonderful trunk was on exhibition. It was not at all a pi'etentious-looking trunk — none of your Saratogas — but though we had seen a little folding furniture, this trunk was a curiosity. Without interfering with its contents, it could be transformed into an elegant sofa. Press on one arm of the sofa, and a writing-desk, with all its apj^ointments, came forth. Lean on the other arm, and a traveler's neeessaire ap- pears, with every convenience that could be desired. While in this position the receptacle for clothing is in the back of the sofa. This back may be let down, and the sofa becomes a bed. By an- other transformation, the bed is converted into a table for four, and in the proper receptacle are all the requisites of a table, such as linen, dishes and cutlery. Nothwithstanding all this, the trunk was not heavy when closed. This unique contrivance has been sold for six hundred dollars in gold. On the other side of the grand central avenue, still far- ther to the north, is Italy's department, extending from the avenue to the north side of the building. This section, being the first north of the main western entrance, receives its share of at- tention from the early crowd, and we cannot say that they will not find as interesting a display as those who turn south to Ar- gentina's leather show, or the Peruvian mummies. For the aesthetic taste, there are wood carvings of artistic de- sign and ingenious execution ; all kinds of fanciful figui-es, carved in a kind of hard nut wood ; some excellent figures in terra cotta, the most noted being a life size statue of Garibaldi, studying a map of his project of turning the course of the Tiber, and some splendid jewelry, shown by Castellani, of Rome. But for those who make no pretensions in the way of art, the curiosities here for sale are more attractive. Among these, we remember some Florentine mosaics, Genoese silver, and a grand array of trinkets from the glass-makers of Venice. It may be, however, that the shop-like urgence of the attendants disgusts us, for we do not tarry long. We have long since learned, that if we have no desire to purchase, it would be much better not to listen to the outcry of the shop-keeper or auctioneer. BASTWARD HO! r,i» Just a step to the east brings us into the court of Norway and Sweden. The first things that nttrnrt th.,' attention of the visitor here, are the hfe-size groups of Scandinavian peasants, which are executed in a style which is designed to be true to the Hfe. wheth er it is artistic or not. It is phiin to see that there has been no posing for efiect, but merely a natural grouping of the family or company to be represented. One is a})t to pass from one of these group.^ to another, without giving particular attention to the exhibit projjer : but the huge galleon of Norway, with its iron nggingand big Viking on board, attracts as much attention as the groups of peasants. You will recollect, that while noticing the Scandinavian pictures, wo said that they had a special interest from the fact that they gave us such a good idea of the country from which they came. The same might be said of the exhibit here : the tall stoves, with their out- side plates of porcelain or bronze : the peculiar sleighs : the vobea I-AMILV (iUori" FKoM SWV.DKS. 70 E A S T W A R D H O ! and furs, and many other things, serve to remind us that the win- ters of that climate are long and severe. Just across the grand central avenue from the court of Sweden, is the exhibit from the island empire of the East, Japan. Here we see signs of well-directed work, as well as patient industry in the elaboration of trifles. They have so many artisans in that country, that the object is more to find employment, than to seek work where they can do the most good. Were we to attempt to notice everything of interest here, we would be undertaking an interminable work, for there is nothing common — all is strange: so we will notice a few things and then pass on. And first we notice some vases, cups, stands, etc., of a peculiar kind of bronze, which seems to be a combination of bronze, gold and silver. One of these large vases meets us at the very threshold of the court. There is a circular plat of earth, surroitnded by bowlders, in which are growing various peculiar plants. In the center rises the vase before mentioned. Though it is rather shal- low, it spreads out to the width of four feet, and on its polished surface are decorations, representing flying cranes, standing out in bold relief : from the center of the vase rises a bronze repre- sentation of an old tree-crag, from which a green-bronze-winged dragon hoists its hideous head, and blows up the water -jet^, which fall into the basin below, and from the rim of that the water drenches the blooming plants in the garden plat. On one side of this charming fountain is the display of porce- lain, on the other is the display of metal-workers of Japan, and, ladies, yoiir Japanese sisters display specimens of needle-work which will cause their more civilized sisters to look to their lau- rels. In inlaid work, both on wood and metal, the artisans of Japan, I think I can safely say, lead the world; but though the specimens are unique, to say nothing of their beauty, we cannot tarry, and so will pass on to the south, into the Chinese court. Here we see stiU more to wonder at. Though even less artistic than the exhibit of their island neighbors, the products of the Chinese artisans show more of that patient, skillful workmanship which we noticed in the other court. I know not why it is — whether these people have no just conceptions of the forms of life, or whether they have such a strong sense of the grotesque that they cannot control it — but certain it is, that, to our eyes at least, their carvings and engravings of men and animals seem to be burlesques. K A S T W A l; li 11 I) I 71 The wood and ivory carvings iire tlu; most, notable attractioDH. here. In tbeir carvings, these people work in niaiiy features of their religion and national sentiment, the dragon — tlie eniMem of the nation — predominating, but among all these carvings we can describe but two or three, and even that must be done briefly. First we will notice one of the ivory balls. The one I have in mind is a splufre live inches in diameter, richly carved in figures of cities, men, trees and flowers. In this shell — as it proves to be — are fourteen perforations, and, looking through these boles, we see another ball on the inside, similarly carved : inside of this we see others, and we are informed that there are (irt )iti/-thrcr balls inside the outer shell, eacli one a very little smaller than the one which encloses it I Ail these are ingeniously carved. Though the attendants were kind enough to explain the modu,^ eran(}i in carving these enclosed balls, I shall not attempt to repeat it, but will merely say that they are all carved from one solid piece, and the work was done by inserting a carving instrument into the holes before mentioned. Another exqui-site piece of work is a mountain carved in ebony. In this mass is imbedded a carved block of ivory, ten antl a half feet long. At the foot of the mountain is tiie representation of a bamboo plantation, with Chinese laljorers moving aliont, ])usliing aside the tall, tree-like reeds. Carved in the ivory, on the moun tain side, is a magnificent city. Tall trees shade the joss-houses and palaces : the streets are full of lifi- : soldiers marching, citi- zens hurrying to and fro, others leaning out of the windows, and above all towers the great pagoda or temple, the land -mark of every city. Nothing seems to have been forgotten. This inimit able piece of work, though it is said to have occupied one man for three years, to say nothing of the material, has been sold for three hundred dollars. Then there is a carving in ivory, representing a Chinese pagoila or temple, with its plat of ground, which is well worthy of note ; but we will only stop to notice that it is about four and a half feet high, and the carving in many places is so elegantly wrought that it is only after a very close inspection that it is to be distinguished from the finest Belgian lace. There is also a bedstead, carved in wood, which displays a great deal of ingenious work. Of course no housekeeper wishes to bavo charge of it. but '7 is to the wood-carvings, what the mountain- city is to the ivory carvings on exhibition here. 72 EASTWARDHO! Were I writing a book of a thousand padres, instead of one of a hundred, I could now go on and enumerate hundreds of curiosi- ties displayed here, but as it is, I must desist. There may be other countries which exhibit specimens of more artistic beauty, but nowhere can we find such a display of Job-like patience and marvelous skill. As we pass to the east, on one of the side aisles, Ave see the ex- hibit of the Sandwich Islands, and just north of that is the court of Tunis ; but as there is not much to be learned here, we pass on to the north, to the court of Denmark, which borders on the south side of the central avenue. The crowd is not much interested here, but we notice some pottery, beaiing some of Thorwaldsen's figures. It seems that the Danes are determined to keep green the memory of their national artist. We also notice some richly wrought silver-ware, exhibited by Christesen. Over the door-way to this court hang portraits of the King and Queen, that pair which has furnished so many rulers, or wives to the prospective rulers, of the nations of Europe, begin- ning with the Princess of Wales. Next east of this, is the court of Turkej', where we see a couple of Angora goats, also some fabrics woven from the long, silken wool of this animal. Here, too, are specimens of the gorgeous carpetings to which the country has given her name, and many other oriental fabrics. Adjoining Turkey on the east, is a court, the front of which bears the following legend: "7'Ae oldest peo'ple hi the world, sends its moriiing greetings to the youngest nation," and we know that it must be the court of Egypt. But there is not much to re- mind us of the Ptolemies, the Pharaohs, or of Moses. It is true, there are models of a pyi-amid and sphinxes, which attract consid- erable attention, as does also the specimen of Taxidermy, in the shape of a huge crocodile. The fountain and flowers at the en- trance are scarcely so artistic as those at the Japanese court. We see a few I'cmindei'S of the glory of Ancient Egypt. There are some rare inlaid dooi'S from the old temples of Cairo, and these, with a few curious bits of ornamentation in arabesque, and some crude old pottery, must close my notice of this old nation of the Nile. We have been accustomed to look upon Spain as a vast theater, in which her people have been seeing acted out the various his- torical dramas which the records of that country show, as occur- BASTWARDHO! 73 ring daring the last ten years. Among all these troubles we would not look for much absolute industrial activity, but it may be that those of us who think we cannot live under a Democratic administi'ation, can learn a lesson from this faction-torn, priest- ridden nation, for her exhibit has no need to blush before the best. The exhibit pertaining to the affairs of every day life is as varied as that of her sister nations, while in fine forged steel, and in in- laid metal vases and caskets, this old nation, which is just now rising from her lethargy, will cause more noted lands to look to their laurels. We have learned a few things in regard to Russin, too, from her exhibit here. Who would have thought that this faraway, almost arctic, region, would lead all other nations in competing with the United States in the matter of grand pianos ? Then the work of her silversmiths attracts more attention than that of the artisans of any other nation, though it may be somewhat less artistic in design ; but we have already spoken once or twice in regard to the ideas of the common people with reference to the higher style of art. The exhibition of furs, though extensive, does not sur- prise us, for we expected something of the kind. The great mal- achite and rhodonite slabs, (the "green and red things" of the newspaper anecdote) are so placed that no visitor will fail to see them, and they attract a great deal of attention. The malachite is wrought into a hundred ornamental and useful forme, while the display of ormolu furniture is very attractive. We have yet to pass the courts of Austria and Germany, ere we arrive at the center of the building, and then we will have seen one- fourth of this grand display, for we have been all this time in the southwest corner of the building, noticing only Italy, Norway and Sweden, on the north of the avenue. In view of this fact, and feeling also that you must be growing weary of this long chapter, I am constrained to push on more rapidly. Indeed, wo have now nearly finished the curious and peculiar things, and any extended description of the plain, matter of-fact displays of such countries as Great Britain, France, the United States and Germany, could not be otherwise than prosy, for it is a matter of experience that these exhibits were uninteresting to the beholder ; then how can I hope to make them interesting to you at second hand ? There are, however, some things that are worthy of note, such as the glassware and meerschaum pipes from Austria, the pottery and porcelain from Germany, also the clocks, from the same coun- 74 EA8TWAKDH0 try, which count the hours by exquisite bird-notes. Great Britain, with her dependencies, occupies the northern half of the west end of the building, from the court of Sweden to the central rotunda. As might be expected, the display in this extensive court is varied. Coming from Canada and India, from London and Cape Town, from Jamaica and Queensland, we see here something from every quarter of the habitable globe. But the rare plumaged birds of New South Wales, the gold nuggets of Victoria, the rich, oriental fabrics of India, the cutlery of Shef- field, the laces of Nottingham, and the silks of Coventry, are the most attractive, though the wares of Dou'ton, the potter, of Lam- beth, are never without their avowed admirers. Just opposite Great Britain on the eest, is the court of France. Here we saw the "Orchestrium" exhibited by J. Thebouville-Lamy, of Paris. It was an immense music-box, resembling an upright piano in shape, and played ten tunes, in tones designed to imitate a complete orchestra. We could hear the shrieking of the violins, the whistling of the flute, the wailing of the clarinet, and the groaning of the bass-viol. Though there is much that is matter-of fact in this exhibit, we are pleased with the display in the decorative art. There is no harm, certainly, in having beautiful furniture and fixtures, and it is in the decoration of such things that the French artisans have shown their skill. Articles of every day use are invested with such a beauty and elegance, that it would seem like sacrilege to devote them to the office for which they were designed. Next, to the east, is the little court of Switzerland, which we pass, noticing only, as we go, a splendid topographical map of the country, and numerous specimens- of the handiwork of its famous artisans, in the shape of carved wood and inlaid furniture. ' I wonder how many of the sight-seers noticed the little school- house in the court of Belgium. We were told that there was such a curiosity, but came very near missing it, even while looking for it. Its exterior is entirely concealed by other exhibits, such as gorgeous tapestry and fine blankets, but it is there, sure enough, with its entrance on one of the by-ways. (They must have known that the average American never visits a school-house, after he once quits its walls as a pupil.) The appointments seemed to be complete, even to textbooks, charts, wall-maps, and all the later contrivances for smoothing the up-hill road to knowledge. There is nothing new here in textile fabrics, but in laces Bel- EASTWABDHO! 75 gium leads the world. There is here, also, a massive pulpit, cov- ered with carvings of scenes from the Bible, which shows that other people, besides the Chinese, are proficients in this kind of work. .The pavilion of Brazil is very attractive, though that nation will hardly rank with the South American republics in manufac- tures ; but she makes a better display in Agricultural Hall. lu the court of Mexico, we are again somewhat surprised, for she is even worse distracted and torn by conflict and revolution than her parent country. Of course, her mineral wealth is her main stay, but in laces, leather, silks and woolens, she makes a creditable display. I believe that I have now made the circuit of all except the United States exhibit, which occupies considerably more than one-fourth of the entire building, and to that I shall now direct my attention. Near the southeast corner of the building, is the book exhibit, but I cannot tarry here, for you can see as much in any city book- store. The British and Foreign Bible Society exhibits the Bible in two hundred languages. This shows what a power it is in the dissemination of God's word to the ends of the world. The time, in which a teacher could lead a flock and instill into their minds the truth as he believed it, is now past. This is the age of read- ing, of investigation and of independent thought : and we rejoice that it is so, for no mere man-made creeds can withstand such a test. But perhaps my reilections are not entertaining, and it would be wise in me to deal them out sparingly. A Boston house shows a model of Bunker Hill Monument in books, and there are many other devices to attract attention, bat it is only books after all. There is no dearth of musical instruments in the exhibit of the United States, such as organs and pianos, of all sizes and styles. There were free concerts almost every hour, on some of these in- struments. In this direction no other nation could rival the States. In carved and inlaid furniture, too, some of the manufacturers of our eastern cities make a display that will compare favorably with that of France, or any other nation. In watches — the man- ufacture of which I neglected to notice in Machinery Hall — the United States has suddenly taken the lead of the world. Not only are the Waltham and Elgin Watch Companies turning out an immense nuniber ('25Q,0()0 annually) of watches, but, they are to be 76 EASTWARDHO preferred to the Swiss watches, taking the opinion of a Swiss gen- tleman, one of the International Jury on watches, at Philadel- phia, (M. Favre-Perret.) He says that he took from this country a fifth-rate Waltham watch, and the regularity with which it runs excites the wonder and admiration of the best adjusters in Neuehatel. And, take it where you will, the display of the United States shows the capacity of the country to compete with any other na tion in articles of utility. We are too busy a people to waste time in the elaboration of trifles, as they do in China and Japan ; but in many cases the productions of American artisans stand confessed as models, worthy the attention of workmen of what- ever nation. In the center of the rotunda, on a kind of a platform, which was, at the opening of the exhibition, used as a music-stand, we saw a gigantic vase, or urn, of artistic design, elaborately wrought. It was specially designed for a birthday present to W. C. Bryant, the octogenarian poet, and is one of the attractions of the build- ing. Since I have spoken of this vase, I must say farther, that in such work, as well as in the setting of pi'ecious stones in gold, our workmen show skill superior to that of European artisans. But I must desist, or I shall never come to tlie end of this long chapter. This building, which we are now leaving, contains about twenty- one acres. It is 1880 feet long by 464 wide, and in traversing the various aisles we have traveled more than eleven miles. This building was erected at a cost of one and a half million dollars. It has now been purchased by a compan}', which will make an ef- fort to hold a permanent Exposition, and it is said that many of the present exhibitors have taken space. Passing out at the north side, and going a few hundred feet to the west, we enter the Wagon and Carriage Annex. The first thing that atti-acts our attention, is the massiveness of the Eu- ropean carriages. The covered carriages were so low that a tall man would have to stoop on entering them, and the wheels and running-gear were almost as heavy as those of an American road- wagon ; but we think that these substantial carriages have many advantages over the airy "sky scrapers" that the manufacturers of our country are palming off on the people. We saw little worthy of note here, however, except some Bicycles, which are quite dif- EABTWARDHO! 77 ferent from tbo old Velocipede, the front wheel being much larger and the hind one much smaller than in the old styles. Gen. Washington's old yellow coach was also on exhibition, but, aside from the name of its illustrious owner, I think it would attract but little attention. Now we will go on up to the northern extremity of the grounds, to Agricultural Hall. This building is 820 feet long by 540 wide, contains over ten acres, and cost in the neighborhood of three hundred thousand dollars. It presents a very picturesque ap- pearance, with its green roof and ornamental fronts. Many of my readers may be as much interested in this department as in any other, but I shall give no extended notice of it. The articles on exhibition here are arranged by classes, and not by countries. The classes are : Agricultural and Forest Products ; Pomology ; Land Animals ; Marine Animals, (Fish, Fish Culture and Appa- ratus) ; Animal and Vegetable Products ; Textile Substances, of whatever origin ; JMachines and Implements, &c. I think I may safely say, that the great attraction in this build- ing was "Old Abe," the veteran bald eagle, which passed through twenty-five battles, during the late war, in company with one of the Wisconsin regiments. He is not a large bird, but he sits on his perch as though he could say, "I am monarch of nil I survey." Well may the poet say : " 'Tis tlu- ))ir(l of our b.iniic^r, the free bird that l)ravc.«i. When thi' liattle is tlurc, all tlif w .'ath of the wave.>* : That (lii>t> li ! 7'.) CHAPTER IX. '• l-AST DAY AT THE CENTENNIAL — THE CESTENNIAf. CITY. "Oh ! make Thoii us, through centnrii-s Iotir, In peace Becure, in jiiatico slroni; ; Around our gift of freedom draw The pafcpnards of Tliy righteous law, And, cast in some diviner mold, 1-et each new cycle i«. 84 E A 8 T W A K D HO One hundred years ago, the women, besides spinning and weav- ing, and making their own and their husband's clothing, made their own straw bonnets, and they were bonnets, too, not a frame on which to hang the ribbons and flowers, but a good honest bon- net, as big as a scoop shovel. They did not wear bonnets for show, in those days, and then carry parasols to protect them from the sun. MKS. MAXWELL fX HUNTEH's COSTUME. A few notes, now, on the "City of Brotherly Love," and we will close this chapter. The streets, in the older part of the city especially, are very nar- row, and not so very well kept. Chestnut Street, that great thorou ghfare, is so narrow, that there is barely room for a wagon E A 8 T W A K I) H f) I 85 to make its wa}', on either side, between the single street-car track and the sidewalk. Fourteenth, or Broad Street, is the widest street in tluK part of the city. The streets running north and south are numbered, from the Delaware west ; those running east and west are named. Independence Hall is on Chestnut, above Fifth. Its real front is toward the "Square, " which extends from the building to Wal- nut Street, but as the building is on Chestnut, the north entrance is really the main entrance. (See frontispiece.) Here we saw the original "Declaration of Independence," the table, chair and inkstand used at the signing, the chair used by John Hancock, President of Congress, portraits of the signers, the old Indepen- dence Bell, and many other Revolutionary relics. A little farther down on Chestnut, is Carpenters' Hall, where the Colonial Congress assembled in 1774. At the corner of Fifth and Arch streets, is the grave of Frank- lin. The burial ground is surrounded by a high wall, but just op- posite this grave is a gap in the wall, which is filled by an iron picket fence. The grave is very near the sidewalk, and you can look through the iron fence and see the plain slab, with the simple inscription, "Benjamin and Deborah Franklin." So rests the Quaker statesman and philosopher. At the corner of Juniper and Chestnut streets, is the United States Mint, where we saw them coining money, but the point of greatest interest is the collection of coins, foreign and domestic, ancient and modern. There were also many medals in the collec- tion. The Zoological Gai'den is in Fairmount Paik, just west of the Schuylkill. Wo spent an afternoon very profitably here. Wo saw all manner of birds, reptiles and mammals. Elephants, rhi- noceroses, giraftes, sea-lions, ostriches, cassowarie.", alligators and huge serpents, may be mentioned, as samples of what may be seen there, but not as a list of what we saw. There are three grand churches at the crossing of Broad and Arch streets, the Baptist, at the northwest corner, the Lutheran, at the southwest corner, and the Methodist Episcopal, on tho southeast corner. These are all we can notice out of a list of thirty five. In the way of places of amusement, I visited the Walnut street and the Arch street Theaters, and I believe there were about ten other theaters in the citv. We also visited the Forest Mansion 86 E A S T W A R D H O ! Garden, to hear Thomas's celebrated orchestra. There are many other phices of interest in the city, but I think enoiigh has been written. CHAPTER X. nOME'WARD BOUND NIAGARA FAI-T.S. '"Tis home wliere the heart is, wlierever that bo, In city, iD desert, iu mountain, in dell ; Not the Kraudenr, the nnmb.-r of objects we see, Rut that which we love, is the magical spell." It was in the early morning of Wednesday, July 19, 1876, that we said "good-bye" to our friends, and turned our backs on the Centennial City. After ranch deliberation, we had decided to leave New York and the Hudson out of the question, and strike for the Niagara Falls, via Lehigh Valley Railroad, taking a glance at the picturesque scenery of the Lehigh Valley, on the highlands be- tween that and the Susquehanna River, as we pass along. We left Philadelphia on the North Penn. R. R., but made con- nection with the Lehigh Valley Road at Bethlehem, Penn. and followed the devious course of the river to White Haven. At Mauch Chunk the road follows the channel of the river through a deep ravine, so narrow that there is no room for gardens, the houses occupying all the space between the river and the precipi- tous blulf. They have now commenced building on the top of the bluff, and call that phice Upper Mauch Chunk, or Greenwood. Mount Pisgah. near this place, is 1000 feet above the Lehigh. There is a coal deposit on the top of Mauch Chunk mountain, fifty feet in thickness. The scenery here is remarkably wild. Twenty five miles farther on, we stop for dinner, at White* Ha- ven, which is at the head of navigation on the Lehigh. Off to the northwest of this place, toward Wilkesbarre, on the Susquehanna, there is some vert/ fine scenery. I preferred it to the view on the Alleghanics, from the B. & O. road, but it is so entirely different E A 8 T W A R D H O ! 87 that one cau scarcely make a decision between them. I have al- ready described the scenery on my eastward trip, bnt here we climbed the ridge, and saw the fertile valleys, with their cultivated fields, clustering villages and meandering rivulets, stretching away till they seemed to mingle with and be lost in the blue of the sky. In fact, the view here was so fine that I suppose my attention was attracted to it for full five minutes, from the copy of "Infelice ' which rested on my knee. This companionship must excuse me from giving a detailed account of the day's ride. On reaching Wilkesbarre, we followed the valley of the Susque- hanna until we reached Waverly Junction, where we took the Erie road and turned more to the west, passing through Elmira and stopping, towards evening, at Hornellsville, for supper. One pe- culiarity of this road is that they couple "broad gauge" and the common gauge cars in one train. There are three tracks, two of them being only sixteen inches apart, making the irons of one track four feet eight inches apart, while the others were six feet, if I mistake not. The train did not present a very good appear- ance, being made up of cars of different widths, but by a peculiar arrangement of the coupling, side draft seemed to be avoided. But night soon came on, and we were hurried along through the darkness, reaching Buffalo at midnight. After a pause here, we passed on to the north, toward Niagara Falls, fanned by the cool damp breeze from the lake, which thus manifests its presence to us, though we cannot see it. About 1 o'clock A. M., July 20th, we arrived at Niagara, and were conveyed to the International Hotel, where we were soon lulled to sleep by the roar of the great fall, which is but a little way from the hotel. In the morning we secured a carriage and driver, and all pro- ceeded down the river to "Whirlpool Rapids," about three miles below the falls. The river, which, above the falls, is about six thousand feet wide, here rushes through a gorge, only three hun- dred and sixty-one feet in width, and the angry rush of the water, and the ever-changing form of the central ridge, where the waves swell up even to bursting forth in clouds of spray, is almost as grand and more interesting than the fall itself. The channel here is about two hundred feet deep, but we reached the edge of the water by means of an elevator, the motive power of which was supplied by the rapid itself. At the foot of the rapid is the Whirlpool, where the eddying SS E A 8 T W A R D H O ! waters break forth in little whirlpools. A body which once gets into this eddy, often remains there for a week or more, madly plunging round and round. The Railway Suspension Bridge is about one and one fourth miles below the falls. It is eight hundred feet long, and two hundred feet above the water. It is a substantial structure, and very artistic, being a combination of a tubular and suspension bridge. The car- riage-way is beneath the railroad tracks. About sixty rods below the falls is the Upper Suspension Bridge. This is twelve hundred feet long — the longest span in the world. It is a light, airy structure, and hangs one hundred and ninety feet above the water. Just below this bridge, a rope had been stretched across the chasm, and the day before we arrived a lady had performed on it. Just below the fall, on the Canada side, is the shelf, which is all that remains of the celebrated Table Rock. In 1850 the greater part of it fell. The mass which was precipitated into the gorge below, was two hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, on the sur- face. This was formerly the popular place from which to view the falls. The river below the precipice makes an acute angle with the channel above. In other words, the river changes its course from due west to a little east of north. The American Fall is ten feet higher than the main or Canadian Fall. This is caused by the dip of the rock strata. Of the fall itself I have but little to say. I was fully prepared for what I saw, even to the reaching after pocket-books ; indeed this last was the most affecting part of my experience at the Falls. What right had they, any how, to entice an unsuspecting individ- ual into an elevator, and then charge a half a dollar for letting him out ? or to charge lifty cents for walking across a bridge ? or a dollar and a quarter for riding across ? Then they tried to get me to pay a dollar for the privilege of risking my life under the fall ; (I never thought, before, that a sensible man would take me for a lunatic.) I do wonder what they would charge a man for the privilege of going over the fall ? But you wish to know what I thought of the fall. Well, I was a little like the Irishman ; '"I didn't see what was to hinder it from falling." It would have been much stranger if it had not fallen. Then the bow was very fine, but how could it be otherwise, with the sun shining full upon such a cloud of mist? But, jesting F. A S T \\ A K II H O : 89 aside, I saw but little about the falls to go into ecstasies over. A clear, unbroken sheet of water, twenty feet in thickness, and a hundred and fifty feet hi^h, smooth and unchanging as a huge blpck of marble, and that was all, except the deafening roar, which is not altogether agreeable. You see as much at a glance as you can in hours : but in the rapids, either above or below the falls, there is more of interest. One does not soon grow weary of watching the ever-changing rush of the hurrying avalanche of waters, and as we gaze, it almost seems to be an object endowed with life, sporting in uncouth gambols. Here I must close tliis tedious narrative, for there is nothing further worthy of note. We left Niagara in the afternoon, taking the Lake Shore & ^Michigan Southern R. R. at Buffalo, and arriv ing at Cleveland early in the morning. We did not break through' the Ashtabula bridge, nor in fact did we meet with any accident in our entire trip of seventeen hundred miles. Our day's ride on the C , C. & C. R. R., diagonally across the State of Ohio, might come in for notice here, but it is probable that you have heard enough from me, at this time. And if ever again I should call upon you to listen to me, I trust that it will be to something more worthy of your attention than this weak and wandering story. But. "what I have written, I hot'f written.' n ^ ■.J /^ .<^ ,\ .*'\ '■ \°^ .v*^ ,^ 0' "^^..^^ * v^^ "^■b^^ _ ; /^^ '^WW^^ ^'^^% ~^-m^.^ ^ -^ ^ ' ^^^^^ "- .-^^ »^:^'^ %. - ' -^^^^^'^ " ^' ' • (J^HP^i^ * O V « ^'^^^OM^ ' Deacidlfied using the Bookkeeper process, v' ■► ^i^'^^^':^^ * *! Neutralizing Agent: Magnesium Oxide ^ X^ » "^^^WaT "• 'v Treatment Date: ■ • ■<^^^ C'? «■ rC\\ SR /h,'' ^ A^ * C^ » / ^ PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGIES. 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