gass S'B't^aa. Book , A /4 -9 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR FOR THE FISCAL YEAR ENDED JUNE 30 1916 WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1916 US, DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR ANNUAL REPORT SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS TO THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR 2> FOR THE FISCAL YEAR ENDED JUNE 30 1916 WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT J RINTING OFFICE IQIP <^^^^ %^^^ Do of D. JAN 13 19ir CONTENTS Page. Functions of the national parks 1 National park service 4 Scenery of the first order 5 National parks and national forests 6 Each a personality of its own ~ 6 Informing the people of the parks 6 General public interest in national parks 7 •National uioniiraents 7 Legislation 8 New parks and monuments 8 Lassen Volcanic National Park 8 Hawaii National Park 9 Sieur de Monts National Monument 9 Capulin Mountain National Monument 9 Dinosaur National Monument 9 Proposed new parks 9 Grand Canyon National Park 9 Enlarged Sequoia National Park 10 Mount McKinley National Park : 10 Mount Hood National Park 10 Idaho (Sawtooth) National Park 11 Mount Baker National Pai-k 11 Private holdings 11 Ranger force 13 Construction work 14 Yosemite hydroelectric power plant Sanitation 15 Admission of automobiles to parks 15 Excerpts from reports of supervisors of national parks 17 Hot Springs Reservation ; 17 Yellowstone National Park 26 Yosemite National Park 41 Sequoia and General Grant National Parks 47 Mount Rainier National Park 52 Cr9.ter I^ake National Park 58 Wind Cave National Park 61 Piatt National Park 64 Sullys Hill Park 67 Mesa A'erde National Park 68 Glacier National Park 70 Rocky Mountain National Park : 73 Appendix A. — Appropriations 1906 to 1916 76 Visitors to national parks 79 X Revenues from automobiles 79 ■^ Appendix B. — An act to establish a national park service 81 r^ Appendix C — An act to establish a national park in the Territors' of .. Hawaii 83 '^ Appendix D. — ^An act to establish the Lassen Volcanic National Park, \^ California 86 ^Appendix E. — National parks at a glance 88 M^v m ILLUSTRATIONS. PHOTOGRAPHS. Yellowstone National Park — Old Faithful Geyser 4 Yoseniite NationalPark — Yoscniite Falls 4 Crater Lake National Park — Cliffs of Crater Lake 4 Rocky Mountain National Park — Odessa Lake 4 Sequoia National Park — General Sliermau Tree 4 Mount Rainier National Park — Mount Rainier 4 Glacier National Park — Iceberg Lake 4 Mesa Verde National Park — Cliff Palace 4 Lassen Volcanic National Park — Lassen Peak S Hawaii National Park — Lava floorJ 8 Proposed Grand Canyon National Park — Grand Canyon S. Proposed Mount Baker National Park — Mount Baker 8 Proposed Idaho (Sawtooth) National Park — Stanley Lake 8 Proposed Mount Hood National Park^ — Mount Hood 8 I'roposed INIount McKinley National Park — Mount McKinley 8 MAPS. National parks and national monuments under the Department of tlie Interior ; '. 16 Hot Springs Reservation 20 Yellowstone National Park 32 Y'osemite National Park__; 44 Sequoia and General Grant National Parks ^ 48 Mount Rainier National Park 56 Crater Lake National Park 59 Wind Cave 62 Piatt National Park 64 Mesa Verde National Park 68 Glacier National Park ^ ^ 72 Rocky Mountain National Park 74 rv . ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Washington^ November 10, 1916. ' Sir : It is with pleasure that I submit to you my first annual report as Superintendent of National Parks. The jjrimary reason for this is that I feel, although we have just begun the solution of many of the numerous questions that have to be dealt with in the national-park work, and for the handling of which we have until re- cently had no coherent organization, yet a great deal has been at- tained through the efforts of yourself and the assistant to the Secre- tar}^ in bringing to the country and to Congress a more intimate knowledge of the national parks and in administering them in an effi- cient manner and to the end that all of our people may get the greatest possible benefit and enjoyment from them. These efforts have borne fruit in the display this year of more interest by people all over the country in the national parks, and in the enactment by Congress of laws which there is no doubt will have greater results toward the efficient and proper management of the parks than any- thing that had theretofore been done. The national parks and their possibilities, both in the way of enjoyment by the people and of profit to the Nation, have in the past been greatly neglected. Our scenic domain can and will be made as readily accessible to all of our citi- zens as are similar scenic and recreation areas in other countries, and much has recently been done to effect this. FUNCTIONS OF THE NATIONAL PARKS. The following is an extract from the report made by former Super- intendent Daniels last year, which I believe to be worthy of repeti- tion, as it so ably explains the functions of the parks: That the expenditiire of money for the maintenance and development of our scenic i-eservations has an economic as well as aesthetic .iustification there can be no doubt, for each year large sums of money have left this country to be spent by tourists in foreign lands In search of scenic beauty. The fact that no material proportion of this sum returns is only less provoking than the knowl- edge that the money thns taken abroad by Americans is spent to view natural attractions that are inferior to those which may be found at home. In your report of 193 3 you stated that land is not always land, but is sometimes coal, sometimes timber. One might add that it is sometimes scenery and, as such, merits the careful study and development that would be extended to other national resources. The condition of travel in foreign lands has stimulated the interest of our people in the merits of similar pleasures in this country. Never in history has there been so great a volume of travel in the United States. Surely it is the part of wisdom to retain this great advantage and to crystallize upou a general policy for the administration of oiir national parks. 2 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. The fii'st step in the consideration ol: a seneral policy for the .-idministration of the national parks is the determination of just what functions they perform. Clearly they are not designated solely for the purpose of supplying recreation grounds. The fostering of recreation purely as such is more properly the func- tion of the city, county, and State parks, and there should be a clear distinction between the character of such parks and national parks. The latter should constitute a class that is of national interest. In the category of national parks should be no reservation that is of local interest only. What, then, are the functions of our national parks as distinguished from State and local parks? As I view this question our national parks should serve three distinct functions : 1. The stimulating of national patriotism. 2. The furthering of knowledge and health. 3. The diverting of tourist travel to the scenic areas of the United States. NATIONAL PATKIOTISM. We, as a people, have been accused of lacking in that love of country with which our neighbors in Europe are so plentifully blessed. Whether such a criticism is merited or not, it is certain that local patriotism has rapidly grown in this country more or less at the expense of patriotism for the country as a whole. This condition \\ould not exist if our people knew their country. To love a thing one must know it. The Belgian knows each hill and dale of his small country and loves it with an intensity that has become proverbial. And so it is with the Swiss, the French, the English. These peoples know their lands and love them. But ours is a great country, stretching from sea to sea. and a knowledge of all its glories is given to but few. What more noble purpose could our national parks serve than to become the instrument by which the people shall be lured into the far corners of their land that they may learn to love it? For one who will encompass the circuit of our parks, passing ovei' the great mesas of Colorado, crossing the painted desert, threading the sparkling Sierra Nevada, and viewing the glaciers and snow-capped peaks of the great Northwest will surely return with a burning determination to love and work for and if necessary to fight for and die for the glorious land which is his. KNOWLEDGE AND HEALTH. I have said that it is my opinion the Federal Government is not justified in maintaining a national park for recreation purposes alone, yet it is readily seen from the character of our reservations that each has its recreational feature. 1 do believe, however, that objects and districts of great educational value should be reserved and placed in the category of national parks. Natural phenomena, great canyons, ruins of antiquity, waterfalls — all are objects of great interest and possess an educational value that can not be estimated. In Yellowstone are the geysers, in Yosemite the highest of waterfalls, in Sequoia the largest and oldest trees on earth, trees that were '^OOO years old when Christ was born. In Wind Cave National Park is a cave that comprises over 90 miles of sparkling passages. At Arkansas Hot Springs and Piatt National Park are medicinal waters that have dispelled the pain of legions of sufferers. In Mesa Verde National Park are the crumbling dwellings of a for- gotton race. Pregnant with mystery and romance, these ancient ruins beckon the traveler across the great green mesa and cast about him the spell of endless conjecture. If for no other reason, the value of these treasures as a medium for the further- ing of knowledge and health fully justifies the plea for further aid, both moral and financial, from our Federal Government. If this aid is granted and a systematic effort is put forth to send our people out into the hinterland of this country, w^e shall be confronted by the problem of caring for a flood of tourists whose needs must be anticipated. THE TOURIST. . The first logical step to be taken in an analysis of the conditions of tourist travel is a study of the tourist himself. Primarily, the tourist takes the line of least resistance. This means that he seeks the path that presents the best accommodations for the least cost. From a record of travel in our parks it may be shown that the finest scenery without accommodations will not receive so large a travel as an inferior character of scenery which has a better type of accommodation. SUPERIlSrTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 3 The tourist who, upon the strength of literature issued by tlie department, travels to our parks is more or less justified in holding the Federal Government responsible for his comforts or discomforts while there. Nor is he backward with criticism. He demands that he be instructed as to the merits of this trail or that, this camp or that. He not infrequentl,v is disappointed in not finding luxuries that he would not expect in similar places under other than Federal control. He invariably overlooks the fact that he, in a way, is part of the Government, and therefore indirectly responsible for the conditions he finds. Nevertheless, his demands must be respected if it is hoped to direct his foot- steps to travel in our country. The three potent factors in influencing tourist travel are publicity, accommo- dations, and transportation. Obviously, the tourist must be informed of the merits of the district to which it is desired to bring him. He must then be shown that the accommodationg at that place are satisfactory ; and, last, he must know that the transportation facilities to, tlirough, and from the location are good and may be had at reasonable cost. These three factors should con- stantly be borne in mind in any planning for the development of tourist travel. The three general classes of tourists who visit our parks are : Those to whom the expense is of little moment ; those who, in moderate financial circum- stances, travel in comfort but dispense with luxuries ; and, third, those who, fired with the love of God's out-of-doors, save their pennies in anticipation of the day when they may feast their eyes upon the eternal expanse of snow- ■ clad peaks and azure skies. It is of this latter class that I would speak. Many of our parks are truly vast in area, encompassing within their bounda- ries innumerable wonders. To reach these the tourist, upon arriving at the park, must hire saddle animals, pack animals, a guide, cook, and other help. The expense of such an outfit is prohibitive to all but the wealthy. Those who have waited and saved their money are denied the fuller enjoyment of our parks, for they can not bear the expense of transporting their supplies over the trails. There is but one solution of the problem of caring for this class of tourists, and that is the establishment of small inns at convenient intervals, so that tourists may travel the trails afoot, purchasing their provisions and other necessities as they go.' As you are aware, the first steps in an effort to bring about such a condition have been taken in Yosemite National Park. If this work is carried through a blessing will have been conferred upon those whose lack of money has shut them from the greater part of our national parks. It will also be, in my opinion, the most potetit factor in retaining, through the medium of our parks, a material percentage of tourist travel and will necessitate a careful consideration of the problem of a general policy. Any plan, however, which may be devised for the management of our national parks should not be predicated upon the assumption that their function is solely to accommodate and retain our tourists in this country. A GENERAL POLICY. A policy to be efllcient must be functional. One for the parks, therefore, must take into consideration the distinctive characteristics of national pai-ks which, as before stated, are relative to the furthering of a national patriotism, public knowledge and health, and tourist travel in tlie home land. Upon con- sideration it will be seen that the first two follow as a natural consequence of the last. In the consideration of a general policy we are concerned pri- marily, therefore, with tourist travel. To foster tourist travel it will be necessary to develop the roads, trails, and other accommodations in the parks to a point where the traveler will not be subjected to serious discomfort. This means the expenditure of money tipon a larger scale than has been the practice heretofore, and the first question that should be settled is, What shall be the source of supply? There are but two practical sources from which funds may be secured, namely, by Federal appropriation and by revenues from the parks themselves. Both resources are now resorted to, each of which is inadequate. If the Federal Government is to support the parks then they should be operated so as to make the cost to the tourist as low as possible. If not. then the various sources in the parks themselves should be developed sufficiently to supply the needed money. 4 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. The sources of revenue froDi the parks fall into four classes: 1. Automobile permits. 2. Concessions of vai'ious kinds. 3. Receipts from public utilities operated by the Government, such as light, telephone, etc. 4. Natural resources, such as timber, stone, fuel, etc. Of these four sources it will be seen that they may all be classified as taxes in proportion to the benefit received rather than the ability to pay. An; analysis of this chai'acter may help in the decision of the policy to be pursued, but it can do no more. The decision must be made in the light of public needs, and the park supervisors should know whether they are to develop the park revenues to their maximum or whether the park is to be administered at the lowest possible cost to the tourist. If the question of finances were settled, in so far as the source is concerned, and a well-crystallized policy looking toward the development of the parks iilong lines that will foster the increase of tourist travel in this country is established much of the delay and confusion in the field will be eliminated. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE. There has heretofore been no service to which the duty of admin- istering the national parks has been delegated. The work has been . done by a small and inadequate force in your office, the members of which have had their regular departmental duties to perform and have given such time and overtime as has been possible to the park work. Upon your recommendation Congress has recently enacted a law (Public, No. 235) establishing the National Park Service. This act provides for the appointment by the Secretary of the Interior of a director, assistant director, chief clerk, and other employees of the National Park Service, and puts under the direc- tor, subject to the supervision of the Secretary, the supervision, management, and control of the national parks and monuments and of the Hot Springs Reservation in Arkansas, which have heretofore been administered by the Interior Department. The act also pro- vides that the Secretary may make rules and regulations for the use and management of' the reservations and prescribes punishment for the infraction of such rules and regulations; it also gives power to the Secretary to grant privileges, leases, and permits for the use of the lands, for the accommodation of visitors in the reservations, for periods not to exceed 20 years and for areas, not to exceed 20 acres in anv one place, and to grant grazing privileges in any of the reservations except the Yellowstone National Park when such use of the lands does not interfere with the primary purpose for which the park was created. This act, however, carried no appro- priation for the organization of the service and no such appropria- tion has as yet been made. Each of the national parks has been created by a law differing more or less from the law creating each of the otiier parks, and heretofore they have beeii administered as individual reservations wath no particular relation to each other. This method of handling the parks- has, for reasons that are quite apparent, been both inefficient and unsatisfactory. The work of administering the national parks has been intrusted to the Department of the Interior. On June 5, 1914, you appointed Mark Daniels, a landscape engineer, of San Francisco, Cal., general , superintendent and landscape engineer of national parks, and on December 9, 1915, he resigned to continue his private business. On December 10, 1915, 1 was detailed from the United States Geological Survey to the department as Superintendent of National Parks. 1 i^^/k ^vH A LU §^<« 1. \- — o Q 1 CS 3 O >t- c ^ cc CD O c c -n ^ ^ ZJ z: z 1 nj i_ t^ o "" _J -Q "'^^'^ H _J -J < u. 0) t: i_ Q. < UJ u O O 1- q: UJ 1- <• UJ to its in the of wa snow- > ^ O >- tion nas eels sof UJ CD o > UJ in add' erfalls, outs wh eat area I -2 g« M c3 >-C m a.>,_o cB Isi --II ■tr — cd (i> -C . oj*^ ^ 5 ":5.E (r < '^R" ^ D_ _l " * ? M O Ol "> M 7^ — .£-D"5 o -) c t^ nj t 1- U- I E cn^ 2 < < CO CD UJ Q c « E c ^^.^ V C) t- M ttf g.^M cr .-■^-2 -*5'V .^ ft M .^.^- -^. Bt_i:*" %--^^:^^' SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK. THE GENERAL SHERMAN TREE. This park contains more tlnan a million sequoia trees, of which 12,000 are more than 10 feet in diameter and some twice that, and several from 25 to 35 feet through from side to side. Some of these trees are older than human history. As John Muir says of them, "When the storm roars loudest they never lose their god-like composure, never toss their arms or bow or wave like the pines, but only slowly, solemnly nod and sway, standing erect, making no sign of strife none of unrest, neither in alliance norat war with the winds, too calmly, unconsciously capable and strong to strive with or bid defiance to anything." GLACIER NATIONAL PARK. ICEBERG LAKE. This park was made by the earth cracking in some far-distant time and one side thrusting up and overlapping the other. It has cliffs several thousand feet high, and more than 60 glaciers feed hundreds of lakes. MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK. CLIFF PALACE, This park hides in its barren canyons the weil-preserved ruins of a civilization which passed out of existence so many centuries ago that not even tradition recalls its people. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 5 With a view to securing a more effective administration of the parks, it was deemed advisable in 1914 to provide for a general superintend- ent, with headquarters at San Francisco, Cal. Experience, however, of over a year under this neAv system demonstrated the advisability of dispensing with a general superintendent having permanent head- quarters away from Washington, and the urgent deficiency bill passed February 28, 1916, authorized the superintendent to remain in Washington, D. C.-, to June 30, 1916, and the sundry civil adt passed July 1, 1916, authorized you to employ in Washington and pay from park appropriations and revenues a Superintendent of National Parks and four other emploj'-ees, and under this authoriza- tion you continued my appointment as superintendent. On July 16, 1916, Joseph J. Cotter, formerly assistant attorney in the department and recently in charge of mails, files, and appointments, was ap- pointed Assistant Superintendent of National Parks. Three clerks were also appointed. While this organization has not been adequate to handle all of the work in Washington, and we are still dependent upon the department for assistance, yet I think I am justified in saying that much has already been done toward coordinating the work, and when Congress shall see fit, which I hope it will early in the next session, to make possible the complete organization of the National Park Service by providing an appropriation for that pur- pose, the entire w^ork in connection with the administration of these areas may be taken over and done in a much more comprehensive and satisfactory manner than has been possible in past years. SCENERY OF THE FIRST ORDER. It has been said that in some respects American scenery is un- equaled abroad. There are more geysers of large size in our Yellow- stone National Park, for instance, than in all the rest of the world together, the nearest approach being the geyser fields of Iceland and far New Zealand. Again, it is conceded the world over that there is no valley in existence so strikingly beautiful as our Yosemite Valley, and nowhere else can be found a canyon of such size and exquisite coloring as our Grand Canyon of the Colorado. In the Sequoia National Park grow trees go huge and old that none quite compare with them. These are well-known facts with which every American ought to be familiar. The 10 national parks of the first order are the Mount Kainier National Park in Washington, the Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, the Yosemite, Sequoia, and Lassen Volcanic National Parks in California, the Glacier National Park in Montana, the Yellow- stone National Park, principally in Wyoming, the Eocky Mountain and Mesa Verde National Parks in Colorado, and the Hawaii Na- tional Park in the Territory of Hawaii. With these must be classed the Grand Canyon of the Colorado in Arizona, which, though still remaining a national monument, is one of the great wonders of the world. The principal difference between a national monument and a na- tional park is that a national monument has merely been made safe from encroachment by private interests and enterprise, while a na- tional park is also in process of development by roads and trails and hotels, so as to become a convenient resort for the people to visit and enjoy. 6 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. NATIONAL PARKS AND NATIONAL FORESTS. One must not confuse the national forests with the national parks. The national forests aggregate many times the area of the national parks. They were created to administer lumbering and grazing interests for the people; the lumbering, instead of being done by pri- vate interests often ruthlessly for private profit, as in the past, is now done under regulations which conserve the public interest. The trees are cut in accordance with the principles of scientific forestry, Avhich conserve the smaller trees until they grow to a certain size, thus perpetuating the forests. Sheep, horses, or cattle graze in all pastures under governmental regulation, while in national parks horses and cattle only may be admitted Avhere not detrimental to the enjoyment and preservation of the scenery. Regular hunting is per- mitted in season in the national forests, but never in the national parks. In short, the national parks, unlike the national forests, are not properties in a commercial sense, but natural preserves for the rest, recreation, and education of the people. They remain under nature's own chosen conditions. They alone maintain "the forest primeval." EACH A PERSONALITY OF ITS OWN. One of -the striking and interesting features of the national parks of our country is that each one of them is quite different from all the others ; each has a marked personality of its own. It will be seen that one may visit a new national park each year for more than a decade and see something quite new and remarkable at each visit. INFORMING THE PEOPLE OF THE PARKS. Through the cooperation of a number of railroads it has been possible to publish a collection of illustrated booklets known as the " National Parks Portfolio," which became so well advertised and known all over the country that although an edition of 300,000 was printed we were not able to supply the demand for them. It is planned now to issue a sale edition, which may be purchased from the superintendent of documents at the Government Printing Office, and which it is expected will be available this winter. This portfolio was prepared, as was also a smaller publication called " Glimpses of Our National Parks," which described briefly the important features of the various parks, under the direction of Robert Sterling Yard, editorial assistant. It is trite to say that in the absence of information on the part of the public as to what the parks are, where they are, and for what reason created, the end for which they were established will not be attained. Yet it is pertinent, for this lack of information has ob- tained to a great extent, in fact to the extent that Mr. Yard found it advisable in the " Glimpses of Our National Parks " to explain that the parks are not beautiful' tracts of cultivated country with smooth lawns and winding paths like city parks, but are " large areas which nature, not man, has made beautiful and which the hand of man " alters only enough to provide roads to enter them, trails to penetrate their fastnesses, and hotels and camps to live in." This condition is rapidly being remedied by the distribution of such publications as the " Portfolio " and the " Glimpses." SUPERINTENDENT OP NATIONAL PARKS, 7 GENERAL PUBLIC INTEREST IN NATIONAL PARKS. The general public interest in national playgrounds may be evi- denced by the number of bills now pending in Congress calling for the creation of 16 new national parks, as follows: Cabinet National Park, in tlie extreme northwest corner of Montana. Cliff Cities National Park, in the northern part of New Mexico. Denver National Park, in the north-central part of Colorado, near Denver. Mammoth Cave National Park, in the west-central part of Kentuck5^ Mescalero National Park, in the southern part of New Mexico. Moun^ Hood National Park, in the northern part of Oregon. Mississippi Valley National Park, in the southwestern part of Wisconsin and northeastern part of Iowa, near McGregor, Iowa. Mount McKinley National Park, in the southern part of Alaska. Moxint Baker National Park, in the extreme northwestern part of Washington. Mount Katahdin National Park, in the central part of Maine. Olympic National Park, in the northwestern part of Washington. Palo Duro National Park, in the northwestern part of Texas. Rio Grande National Park, in the southwestern part of New Mexico. Sand Dunes National Park, in the extreme northwestern part of Indiana. Sawtooth National Park, in the south-central part of Idaho. Sierra Madre National Park, in southern California. NATIONAL MONUMENTS. By an act approved June 8, 1906, entitled "An act for the preser- vation of American antiquities," the President of the United States was authorized to declare to be national monuments by public procla- mation historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic or scientific interest that are situated upon the lands owned or controlled by the Government of the United States. Under this authority the President has created a number of monuments, 21 of which, listed below, are administered by the In- terior Department: National vwnuments administered by Interior Department. Name. State. Date. Area. Devils Tower Montezuma Castle El Moro Chaco Canyon Muir Woods 2 Pinnacles Tumacacori Mukuntuweap Shoshone Cavern Natural Bridges ^ Gran Quivira Sitka Rainbow Bridge 4 Lewis and Clark Cavern . Colorado ■ Petriaed Forest Navajo ^ Papago Saguaro Dinosaur Sieur de Monts Capulin Movmtain Wyoming Sept. 24, 1906 Arizona Dec. 8,1906 New Mexico do do Mar. 11,1907 California Jan. 9, 1908 do Jan. 16,1908 Arizona Sept. 15,1908 Utah July 31,1909 Wyoming Sep't. 21, 1909 Utah Sept. 25,1909 New Mexico Nov. 1,1909 Alaska Mar. 23,1910 Utah May 30,1910 Montana May 16,1911 Colorado May 24,1911 Arizona July 31,1911 do do Utah Maine , New Mexico . Mar. 14,1912 Jan. 31,1914 Oct. 4,1915 July 8, 1916 Aug. 9,1916 Acres. 1,152 160 160 120,629 295 2,080 10 115,840 210 I 2, 740 160 57 160 160 13,883 25,625 360 2,050 80 1 5, 000 681 1 Estimated area. * Donated to the United States. 3 Originally set aside by proclamation of Apr. 16, 190S, and contained only 120 acres. *• Within an Indian reservation. 8 supeehsttendent OF national parks. During the past session Congress appropriated $3,500 for preserva- tion, development, administration, and protection of the national monuments, and work is now being undertaken. * ' LEGISLATION. The States of Washington and Oregon ceded jurisdiction to the Federal Government over the lands embraced in the Mount Rainier and Crater Lake National Parks, respectively, and by acts of Con- gress dated June 30, 1916, and August 21, 1916, the cessions of juris- diction were accepted. The Federal Government now has juris- diction over these parks. It is hoped that at the next meeting of the legislatures of the several States in which other national parks are situated jurisdiction will be ceded to the Federal Government, so that it may be able to make uni- form rules and regulations that can be locally administered. In this way much more satisfactory results will be obtained than are practi- cable under present conditions. Congress also enacted a law (Public, No. 115) amending the act of May 7, 1894, entitled "An act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park and to punish crimes in said park, and for other purposes," so as to change the penalty for violation of the provisions of the original act from a fine of not more than $1,000 and imprisonment not exceeding two years to a fine of not more than $500 and imprisonment not exceeding six months. The original act evidently contemplated that the offenses be dealt with as misdemean- ors and the offenders tried and punished by the commissioner of Yellowstone Park, but in view of the term of imprisonment pro- vided — not exceeding two years — the offenses had to be treated as crimes under the Constitution and the offenders tried b}^ indictment in the regular way. The new law makes it possible to treat the offenses as misdemeanors and to try the offenders before the local commissioner in the park. This means a better and more expeditious and inexpensive enforcement of the law. NEW PARKS AND MONUMENTS. LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PAEK. The act of Congress of August 9, 1916, established the Lassen Volcanic National Park, in the Sierra Nevada, in the State of Cali- fornia. This park has an area of 79,561.58 acres and includes the only region in the United States exhibiting i-ecent volcanic action. In addition to its numerous volcanoes it contains hot springs and mud guysers, lakes and trout streams, ice caves and lakes of volcanic glass, and beautiful canyons. An appropriation of $5,000 for the administration, of this park was asked for in the last deficiency bill, but this item was not included in the act. Therefore there is as yet no money available for this park, and the Secretary of Agriculture has generously consented to continue the patrol of the lands by the Forest Service, the lands having heretofore been within a national forest, until an appropriation is made and it is practicable for this department to administer the park. LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK. This park contains the only active volcano in the United States, as well as hot springs, mud geysers, ice caves, majestic canyons, numerous lakes, and fine forests. Lassen Peak is 10,465 feet in altitude, v^hile Cinder Cone is 6,879. HAWAII NATIONAL PARK. This park consists of three separate areas, two, Kilauea, which has been continuously active for acentury.and Mauna Loa, altitude 1 3,575, the largestactive volcano in the world, erupting every decade, on the island of Hawaii. The third, Haleakala, on the island of Maui, is a volcano which erupted less than 200 years ago. It is 10,000 feet high, with a tremendous rift in its summit 8 miles across and 3,000 feet deep, and contains many cones, gorgeous tropical forests, mahogany groves, and lava caves. D cr 0. O en Q < STANLEY LAKE, IN PROPOSED IDAHO (SAWTOOTH) NATIONAL PARK. THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WHITNEY, NEARLY 3 MILES HIGH, GREATER SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK. IN THE PROPOSED MOUNT HOOD, IN PROPOSED MOUNT HOOD NATIONAL PARK. m ^ ^ I 1 1 P ^ ''^P^^9 P^^^ "^Hl MUk f"^^ ■^ ^ ji| /^ j^Bi 1 m HHBB r |«Mg«p --5MBWMI 1^^ ^Z^^^^^^^^^^ ^H I ■H >l^^^^^ H P i ^5 *^^f?^? '' ^ ^ ^ I^^X: 1 S MOUNT Mckinley, in proposed mount mckinley national park. SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 9 HAWAII NATIONAL PARK. The act of Congress of August 1, 1916, established the Hawaii National Park, in the Territory of Hawaii. This park has an area of 75,295 acres and includes two of the most famous active volcanoes in the world and another which erupted less than 200 years ago, in addition to the wonderful lava lake which is a mass of fire 1^000 feet in diameter. The act provides that no appropriations for this park shall be made until conveyance shall be made to the United States of such perpetual rights of way over private lands within the exterior boundaries of the park as the Secretary of the Interior shall find necessary to make it reasonably accessible in all its parts, and that when such rights of way have been conveyed the Secretary shall submit report to Congress. The matter of obtaining definite infor- mation as to the conveyance of these rights of way has been taken up through the governor of Hawaii. SIEUR DE MONTS NATIONAL MONUMENT. The Sieur de Monts National Monument, in Maine, was created by presidential proclamation of July 8, 1D16, and includes more than 5,000 acres on Mount Desert Island, covering 4 lakes and 10 moun-, tains. The lands included in this monument were never a part of the public domain, but were presented to the United States by the owners, the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations. This monument is the first created on the Atlantic coast. There is nothing just like it elsewhere on the continent. A noble mass of ancient granite that once bore up an alpine height has been laid bare by time and carved into forms of bold and striking beauty by recent ice-sheet grinding. It is a miique and splendid landscape, revealing the ocean in its majesty as no lesser or more distant height can do. and exhibiting the interest and beauty of the northern vegetation. CAPULIN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL MONUMENT. The Capulin Mountain National Monument, in New Mexico, was created by presidential proclamation August 9, 191G, and has an area of about 681 acres. The Capulin Mountain cinder cone is one of tiie geologically recent cones in the United States which are of excep- tion nl scientific interest. DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT. The Dinosaur National Monument, in Utah, was created by presi- dential proclamation October 4, 1915, and has an area of approxi- mately 80 acres. This monument contains embedd'ed in its rocks fossils of dinosaurs and other reptilian monsters of gTeat scientific interest which it is believed should be protected from exploitation, at least until the Government is able to obtain a complete collection for the National Museum. PROPOSED NEW PARKS. GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is one of the greatest natural wonders of America, the gorge itself being one of the largest and 10 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. most magnificent in the world, and from its rim the traveler over- looks a thousand square miles of pyramids and minarets rising from the floor of the canyon and ever changing in color. It is at present a national monument, administered by the Department of Agricul- ture, and the officials of that department and of the Forest Service have agreed that it should be made into a national park, as in this way it would be more practicable to develop the reservation through the construction of roads, trails, and such other improvements as would offer increased attractions for visiting tourists. It is pro- posed to include in the park an area of greater extent than is at present covered by the monument. The Grand Canyon is now one of the most popular show places of the United States, and if im- proved and made convenient for tourist travel the number of visit- ors would be multiplied. I strongly recommend that this national park be established during the next session of (Congress. ENLARGED SEQUOIA. A bill was introduced in Congress to enlarge the boundaries of , the present Sequoia National Park, in California, to include the Kings and Kern River Canyons, and it is hoped this bill will be en- acted at the next session of Congress. This would make the area ap- proximately 1,600 square miles, an increase of 1,335 square miles over its present area. The park at present has no exceptional scenery except the three groves of Sequoia w ashing toniana^ which it Avas originally created to preserve, while just to the east of it lies some of the most magnificant scenerj^ to be found anywhere in the world. I earnestly recommend the proposed extension which includes a por- tion of the great Western Divide and the crest of the Sierra topped by Mount Whitney, the highest point in continental United States. MOUNT McKINLEY NATIONAL PARK. A bill was introduced in Congress for the establishment of the Mount McKinley National Park, in Alaska. As this is the loftiest mountain in North America (altitude 20,300 feet) and the highest peak in the world above the line of perpetual snow, it is one of the noblest spectacles of its kind in the world. The Government railroad, which is now being built in Alaska, runs within about 45 miles of Mount McKinley, and the creation of this national park would, no doubt, result in additional traffic for this road and addi- tional visitors to Alaska, and would give an impetus to the settling of the country. Also the reservation of this land by the creation of the park would mean the establishment of what would probably be our greatest big game preserve, with moose, caribou, and bighorn sheep. This bill passed the Senate at its last session and it is lioped that it will be enacted during the next session of Congress. MOUNT HOOD NATIONAL PARK. A bill was introduced in Congress for the creation of the Mount Hood National Parks, in the State of Oregon. This bill proposed to embody in the parks eight noncontiguous tracts of land. x\ national park should be made of Mount Hood, but it is not considered SUPERINTENDENT OP NATIONAL PARKS. 11 advisable that it consist of these separated tracts of hind. You rec- ommended in your annual report to the President in 1915 that this national park be established, and this year you submitted to Con- gress a draft of proposed legislation creating a park comprising one undivided tract of land. IDAHO (SAWTOOTH) NATIONAL PARK. A bill was introduced in Congress to establish the Sawtooth Na- tional Park, in the State of Idaho. The land proposed to be included in this park is practicall}'^ in the center of the State of Idaho, and has an area of about 329,910 acres, less than 1,000 acres of which is affected by any sort of private claim. This State has no national park, and the proposed new park would be readily accessible from various branches of the Oregon Short Line. It is not far distant from the regularly traveled automobile highway through Twin Falls and Shoshone, and could be readily visited, and no doubt would be, by visitors from the Yellowstone National Park. It would consti- tute a most important link in the chain of national parks, located as it is between the Yellowstone and the Mount Rainier Parks. The proposed park contains an unusuallj^ interesting portion of the Saw- tooth Range, which show^s the characteristics of the three main mountain ranges in the United States. The southern portion re- minds one of the Rocky Mountains in Colorado, the middle resem- bles the Sierra in California, and the northern end exhibits the characteristics of the Cascade Range in Washington. It should be known as the Idaho National Park rather than the Sawtooth. MOUNT BAKER NATIONAL PARK. A bill was introduced in Congress for the creation of the Mount Baker National Park in the State of Washington. Mount Baker is the farthest north of America's high mountains, outside of Alaska, and overlooks a scene of wildest grandeur. It is a dome- crowned bulk of vast extent, nearly 11,000 feet high, and is deeply grooved by 12 glaciers. From the mountain itself stretches a bewilder- ing panorama of mountain and valley, forest and field, threaded by numerous clear streams, and on clear days the sea can be seen in the distance. PRIVATE HOLDINGS. In several national parks, notably Sequoia, Glacier, Mount Rainier, and Yosemite, there are large tracts of land held in private owner- ship—property acquired under the general land laws prior to the creation of the parks by acts of Congress. Many of these tracts embrace scenic features of rare charm, and in at least one park — Sequoia — the natural features of greatest importance, the verj'' fea- tures that were sought to be preserved forever by the establish- ment of the park, are in private hands. I refer to the enormous sequoia trees {Sequoia w ashing t07iiana) in what is known as the Giant Forest. For many years efforts have been made to acquire title to these timberlands and revest the same in the Federal Gov- ernment, and measures designed to accomplish this end were intro- duced in Congress from time .to time. During the season of 1915 the assistant to the Secretary visited the Giant Forest and ascertained the names and addresses of the 12 SUPEK1XT?:XDE^-T OF NATIONAL PAEKS. owners of the tracts of lands on which most of the giant trees are standing. Some intimation of tlie price that would be asked for these holdings and the conditions upon which they w^ould be disposed of were also obtained. Subsequently the department recommended in its estimates for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1917, the^nactment of legislation authorizing the Secretary of the Interior in his discretion to expend $50,000 in the purchase of "such private holdings in the park as in his judgment are desirable for the better administration of the reservation." Later an option on a group of the largest holdings was obtained. The ])urchase price of these holdings was fixed at $70,000. An appropria- tion of $50,000, as recommended, was made by Congress in the sundry civil act, and the additional $20,000 will be subscribed by public- spirited citizens and organizations. Thus will be consummated a transaction which Avill go far toward freeing the wonderful Giant Forest of private holdings. But more remains to be done. There will still remain in private ownership several tracts of land contain- ing numerous big trees, and thej^ will continue a menace to good administration of the Giant Forest if not purchased. Hotels and other concessions might be erected on these holdings and be abso- lutely free from departmental regulations in the interest of the public; the big trees on the lands would remain subject to the fire hazard, and no provision could be made for clearing away under- brush, dead and doAvn timber, and otherwise making the trees as attractive and accessible as other sections of the Forest under Federal control. A further approj^riation is needed to complete the purchase of these important Giant Forest lands. In Glacier National Park the private holdings which are sought to be extinguished are practically all on the west side of the Conti- nental Divide. The principal holdings lie on the shores of Lake McDonald and along the road leading to the foot of this lake from Belton, the western entrance point on the Great Northern Railway. This Belton-Lake McDonald road, through its entire course of nearly 3 miles, has been constructed over privately owned lands which are covered with valuable merchantable timber. These liold- mgs extend to the south boundary of the park, the north shore of the Flathead River, and it has thus been impossible to establish the headquarters of the park on public land at a point which would be accessible to the tourists. Several years ago the supervisor's office was located on the southwestern shore of Lake McDonald at a point which has proven to be a most undesirable location from every jjoint of view. The logical location for the park headquai'ters is the tract of land on the noi-th shore of the Flathead River and across the river from Belton. Fortunately there now exists an opportunity to secure this tract for an administrative site. We are now developing plans which will enable us to take advan- tage of this opportunity, but congressional action will be necessary to fully consummate them. Should Congress make possible the consummation of these arrange- ments many of the diffi^culties resulting from private ownership, of lands in Glacier Park will be obviated. It is unfortunate that a tract of land in private hands near the head of Lake McDonald is to be developed as villa sites. The pro- SUPEKINTENDENT OF NATIOlSrAL PARKS. 13 motion of projects of this character is regarded as inconsistent with the purposes of Congress in setting aside lands for national-park purposes, and they can not be considered as objects worthy of Federal assistance or encouragement. A bill, S. 778, authorizing the exchange of lands along roads in the scenic sections of the park for lands of approximately equal value in other portions of the park, and in national forests of Montana, passed the Senate recently and is now pending in the Committee on Public Lands of the House of Representatives. In Yosemite National Park there are numerous tracts of land of extraordinary scenic beauty which are in private hands. Among them may be mentioned the beautiful meadows and alpine park lands near Lake Tenaya, at White Wolf and Aspen Valley, a villa site on the Big Oak Flat road near the north wall of Yosemite Valley, and a number of tracts of timberland with exceedingly heavy grow^ths of large sugar and yellow pine. All private holdings should ultimately be extinguished, and title to the same returned to the United States. By acts of Congress approved April 9, 1912 (37 Stat., 80), and April 16, 1914 (38 Stat., 45), authority was granted for the exchange of lands of this character along the park roads for lands of equal value in other sec- tions of the park, and under certain specified conditions in the Sierra and Stanislaus National Forests, in the State of California. Under the provisions of these laws, several tracts of private lands have been exchanged for lands in the park and adjacent national forests. Among the private holdings, however, the existing toll roads are the most embarrassing to the administration of the reservation at the present time. These highways should be secured by the Federal Government as soon as possible, and improved and maintained as parts of the general road system. In Mount Rainier National Park the lands in private ownership at Longmire Springs should be acquired for park purposes. On these there is a hotel which is not subject to departmental regula- tions, and no control can be exercised over the sanitation and general upkeep of these premises. There are other private holdings of more or less importance in the park, which should ultimately be secured. Acquisition of the Longmire Springs property, however, is very es- sential to the proper development of this section of the reservation. RANGER FORCE. Special attention was given to the ranger force in each park during the season 1916 while discussing plans with the supervisors. Gen- erally it was found that conditions were not conducive to best service. During the coming winter there will be presented for your considera- tion a plan which I believe will remedy the present situation. I strongly recommend that each member of the corps be appointed in the National Park Service, rather than as at present to the park in which they are to work, so that an employee in one park may be xeadily transferred to another park, where his training and experi- ence make him more valuable to the service. The ranger force in reality makes the success or failure in admin- istering the parks, and I feel that there should be a civil -service examination to determine the educational qualifications of the 6539»— 1& 2 14 SUPERINTENDEISrT OF NATIONAL PARKS. rangers. While such an examination can not determine the most important requirements, temperament, tact, etc., it would give an assured fundamental base to build upon, and after one season's trial, before a permanent appointment was made, the department would know if the ranger had the desired all-around qualifications for the ranger corps. The longer a man is in the service the more valuable he is, and, therefore, I think a ranger should enter the service with the desire of making it his life's work, and after the service is once fully or- ganized, promotions to higher positions should be made in the corps, so that each man would have the fullest incentive to give his best service, knowing that advancement would be based solely on char- acter and general efficiency CONSTRUCTION WORK. The apparent policy in the past in making appropriations for road and trail construction has been to give only enough to provide for the most immediate needs. This is most unfortunate and ex- pensive. It adds to the final cost easily 25 per cent, whereas if there were appropriated at one time sufficient to construct the road to final completion, the department would plan in a businesslike way and acquire the necessary machinery, etc., to do the work properly. It must be remembered that on account of the weather conditions in practically all the national parks the summer season is the only time road work can be done, and the appropriations being usually avail- able on July 1 (some years later), the working season is cut in half and part of the appropriation is left to be expended before July 1 of the next year. As the department does not know when the appropriations for the new year may be made, nor the amounts that will be available, it is sometimes impossible to expend economically these appropriations. In fact, in any field service where appropria- tions lapse on June 30, at least 25 per cent additional is added, be- cause of forced work, to the cost. I therefore recommend that all appropriations for construction in the national parks be made immediately available and that they continue to be available until expended. I shall present for your consideration during the coming winter an estimate of the cost for the full development of the national parks, which, in my judgment, is necessary in order to make them easily accessible and available for the fullest enjoyment and benefit of the people. YOSEMITE HYDROELECTRIC POWER PLANT. The sundry civil app)ropriation act approved July 1, 1916, carried an item of $150,000 for the erection of a new power plant in the Yosemite National Park. This plant is now under construction and will be finished by June 30, 1917. The intake, a small diversion dam, is located at the head of the rapids in the Merced Kiver near Pohono Bridge and the power house will be near Cascade Creek. This seemed the best location and fortunately is below the floor of the valley and does not affect any of the falls and rapids above the lower end of the valley at Pohono Bridge. It is being constructed with special care so as to be as inconspicuous as possible along El Portal Road. The plant when completed will generate approximately 1,500 SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 15 kilowatts during high water and approximately 750 kilowatts during the low water in the fall. This will furnish sufficient power for lighting all camps and the new hotel under construction, as well as all the main roads and footpaths in the Yosemite Valley, and for heating and cooking at the hotel and permanent camps. This work is being done by the department under the supervision of the Superintendent of National Parks, through Galloway and Markwart, supervising electrical engineers of San Francisco, Cal. SANITATION. Mr. J. A. Hill, of Chicago, who has had wide experience in hand- ling hotels and has made a speciality of sanitary conditions in con- nection with the operations of hotels, was appointed inspector and assigned to the detailed examination of all hotels and camps in the several national parks. His report is exhaustive and valuable in- deed, and his recommendations will be adopted and put into opera- tion as fast as possible, as I believe they will add much to the com- fort and safety of tlie tourists. During my visit of general inspection to the national parks, during the season of 1916, I was constantly impressed with the total lack of any systematic sanitary arrangements. The national parks, to give full benefit and enjoyment to our people, must be kept in the best possible sanitary condition. There is not an adequate sanitary sys- tem in a single park, and the great increase in travel to all the parks in the last two years makes the sanitary problem- the most important question in every park. In the Yosemite, for instance, on July 4 last on the floor of the valley, in an area of about 1 square mile, there were 5,000 people, and during the season of 1916 some 33,000 people — a good sized city — and yet here there is nothing that can be called a sewer system. In the Sequoia, in an area of approximately one-fourth square mile, there were 10,687 people during about four months, and in General Grant during the same time, in an area of approximately one-eighth square mile, there were 15,226 people, and in neither of these parks is there any kind of sanitary system, save the crude dry-box toilets. Crater Lake is no better, Mesa Verde is even worse, and in fact all the parks are in a deplorable condition in this respect, and I shudder at the probability of an epidemic of typhoid fever or some other common epidemic that could be directly charged to the lack of proper sanita- tion. In connection with the necessity for sanitation there is also need for an adequate water system for each park. Therefore. I can not too strongly urge that the estimates submitted to Congress for the next fiscal year, containing recommendation for appropriations for sanitation and water supply, receive the favorable consideration of Congress and that the funds authorized be made available for imme- diate expenditure. ADMISSION OF AUTOMOBILES TO PARK. All of the parks are now open to motorists and practically all ob- jectional restrictions that were imposed in the past have been elimi- nated. Automobiles were first admitted to the Mount Rainier Na- tional Park in 1908, General Grant in 1910, Crater Lake in 1911, Glacier in 1912, Yosemite and Sequoia in 1913, and Mesa Verde in IQ SUPEEINTENDENT OP NATIONAL PAEKS. 1914. Automobiles are permitted in the Eocky Mountain, Piatt, Wind Cave, Sullys Hill, and Casa Grande Ruin, and in the Hot Springs under special conditions and on special occasions. During the season of 1915, private automobiles, used for pleasure purposes only, were admitted in the Yellowstone National Park under schedule that did not interfere at all with the regular horse- drawn stage coaches, and in 1916 free shelter garages were con- structed at the principal. points of interest. The admission of pri- vate automobiles in the Yellowstone has proven a tremendous success during two seasons, and now that the roads have been greatly im- proved it is planned to discontinue the horse-drawn stage and use automobile transportation entirely in this park beginning with the season of 1917. When this is accomplished, transportation by the concessioners in all of the parks will be by automobile. The automobile revenues are growing and in time will be the prin- cipal revenue from the parks. Every effort is, therefore, being made to give to the motorist every opportunity to use the parks, such as good safe roads, supply stations, camp grounds, shelter garages, etc. The road leading from Cody, the home of Buffalo Bill, up the Shoshone River to the lake formed by the impounding of the river waters by the great Shoshone Dam, thence up the North Fork of this river to the eastern entrance to Yellowstone Park, which is just below the beautiful Sylvan Pass in the Absaroka Range, was opened this season for the 'first time as a general highway for tourist travel. More than 3,300 people entered or departed from the park via this route during the summer, and this " Cody Entrance," as it is called, has been described by many who enjoyed its wonders as the " sensa- tion of the season." The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad extensively advertised this new entrance to the park, and maintained excellent train service to Cody from various Middle West points. By direction of the de- partment and under permit from it a company was organized to operate an automobile stage line between Cody and the Lake Hotel, where connection was made with the belt-line stages for the regular park tour. This company, which was known as the Cody-Sylvan Pass Motor Co., was organized by the transportation concessioners and camping companies holding concessions in the park, and was thus given a direct connection with long-established park enterprises. New . and comfortable automobile busses of the latest model were operated by the Cody-Sylvan Pass Co. and service first class in every respect was rendered. The large increase in automobile travel to all the parks during the season of 1915 seemed to Avarrant the issuance of special guide maps and automobile regulations combined for use of automobilists, and an experiment was made in issuing a guide map. For the Yosemite and Yellowstone approximately 17,000 each were distributed through automobile clubs and chambers of commerce and to individuals. The appreciation of the users of these maps was shown by the considerable increase in travel. It is therefore planned to issue similar maps for each park for the season of 1917. Respectfully submitted, R, B. Marshall, /Superintendent of National Parks. The Secretary of the Interior, Washington^ D. C. 16 N AT I O/I E N T S '"-i^^-^r CONTAINING yStei*-**— ^ 16 NATIONAL PARK$-£fi "T^Bellinsham CONTAINING Miles or .303 Acres 21 NATIONAL M ^ ji\<^°'' j^^^^^VjI^ N dak" .*^•■b \ ,oicAN (C-f-»-il/ '^^'^e ^M-~£— -^ifl- ^iva?r;sr \ te.r-f^*'' I ( '«n. ^^ VJ7 /y -V P- ^ ^° Genese K f h^^Xiii^Si^J C^-^^i^JT'^ vr^^«^;S<3itf22^^ Santa FeV r^ ^Z I \ ^^ J^ \ AUASKAl Wichita Fs EXCERPTS FROM REPORTS OF SUPERVISORS OF NATIONAL PARKS. The following are excerpts from the reports of the supervisors (whose title was changed from that of superintendent during the past year) of the various national parks : HOT SPRINGS RESERVATION. Dr. William P. Parks, Supervisor, Hot Springs, Ark. GENERAL STATEMENT. There were given this year 544,371 paid baths in the several batliliouses, which is an excess of 64,144 baths, the total given last year having been 480,227. The total receipts of the different bathhouses this year were $243,568.29, and the total receipts last year were $200,629.21 , making a net gain of $42,939.08. Dur- ing tlie month of Marcli this year the total receipts of- the bathhouses were $43,062.53, and for the month of March last year, $28,669.38, making a net gain for the single month of $14,393.15. The month of March is always con- sidered the banner month of the year. It is estimated that approximately 125,000 persons visited Hot Springs during the past fiscal year. In addition to the 544,371 paid baths shown above there were given 2,243 complimentary baths in the pay bathhouses, 103,398 baths at the Government Free Bathhouse, and 4,284 baths at the Levi Memorial Bathhouse, making a total of 654,296 baths during the past fiscal year. LEGENDARY HISTORY. The Hot Springs of Arkansas are 50 miles southwest of Little Rock, Arkansas's capital. Just how long hot water has been issuing from 'the earth at this point we do not know, nor can we ever know. Twenty-three hundred years is the minimum estimate of scientists. It is also equally as uncertain when the first human being penetrated the wild and lonely mountain fastnesses and discovered this marvelous gift of a beneficent God. I shall not dwell on the romantic legends which tell us how adventurous Indian tribes battled from time to time for control of the hot waters in which they believed the " Great Spirit " to be ever present, and how a__truce was finally declared, under which their benefits were extended to the sicK^ all tribes. It is recorded that the Spaniards under De Soto were the first white men to look upon and drink of the waters of the Hot Springs. This leader, with his proud chivalric band of Castilians, reached the springs in the autumn of 1541. Old court records show that the Spaniards when in possession of the country just before it passed to the United States realized the value of the springs and made a futile attempt to wrest them away from the effects of the Louisiana purchase of 1803. The earliest settlement of which we have any positive information was the building of a cabin at the springs in 1807 by Manuel Prudhotame. Mr. Hemp- stead, in his history of Arkansas, reproduces a letter written in the year 1829, fi'om " The Hot Springs of the Washita," which says : " Until this season everyone who came here was obliged to provide for himself shelter and provisions as he could. This year a boarding house has been established by a family from Boston, and the accommodations are quite comfortable. I do not doubt but that this will be kept up * * * boarding for man and horse is one dollar per day." The first bathhouse of which we have any knowledge was erected in 1830. In 1827 application was made for a patent to the land embracing the springs, but it was withheld on the ground that the Indian title had not at that time been extinguished, and afterwards withheld on the advice of the Attorney Gen- oral that the New Madrid certificates, upon which the claim was based, were not looatable south of the Arkansas River. 17 18 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. In 1832 our Government, believing that the All-Wise Architect of the Universe had a purpose in creating these fountains of health almost midw^ay between our ocean boundaries, and that such a priceless gift should be free from monopoly and exploitation, set aside for the future disposal of the United States, not to be entered, located, or appropriated for any other purpose whatever, the hot springs and four sections of land surrounding them, then making the first national park reservation of the country and preserving forever the waters for the use of all. But, notwithstanding the act of Congress, the title to the springs remained in dispute. There were three claimants to the property, and litigation over it, Vk'hich began in 1852, ended in 1876 by a decision of the Supreme Court of the United States in favor of the Government against all claimants. In 1877 the commissioners of the Government settled the right of possession and purchase as between several thousand different individuals who had set- tled on the property, holding by lease or purchase. Valuations were placed on the different parcels, and the commissioners decided who were entitled to pur- chase the same. These adverse claims and resulting litigations retarded the growth of the city of Hot Springs, but the permanent settlement of title and the multitudinous questions involved marked a new era in the city's history, as is now evidenced by a beautiful city. The Hot Springs Reservation now has an area of 911 acres, consisting of five units — viz, Hot Springs, North, West, and Sugar Loaf Mountains, and Whittington Lake Reserve Park, but the hot waters issue foi'th only from the west slope and at the base of Hot Springs Mountain which embraces 264 acres, and the 47 springs with an average daily flow of 848,000 gallons and an average temperature of 135° F. are confined within an area approximately 500 by 1,400 feet. THE CITY OF HOT SPRINGS. The city of Hot Springs is located in a spur of the beautiful Ozark Moun- tains, and enjoys ideal climatic conditions similar to those of southern Cali- fornia or southern Italy, abounding in sunshine and balmy weather in the win- ter and relatively cool summers, all of which tend to popularize it as a re- sort. It is a municipality governed by State and municipal laws, and the Department of the Interior exercises no control or supervision over any mat- ters connected with the city. It has a population of 16,000 exclusive of its suburbs,- and ranks in size as the fourth city in the State. It is cosmopolitan in character, having visitors at times from all parts of the world, and classes in this respect with other cities many times its size. The elevation of the central part of the city is 600 feet above sea level, and the surrounding moxintain tops 500 to 600 feet higher. Doctor drumming as now carried on is consummated by first obtaining the confidence of the prospective victim, and later by various means causing the patient to go to some physician who is willing to give up half the fee in order to secure the patient. This is a most vicious practice and should be eliminated root and branch. In taking affidavits in this office it is not an infrequent occurrence that the drummer first steers the patient to some drug store, and through an understanding with the druggist the patient is recommended to the doctor to whom the drummer desires him to go. Constant and timely investigations of all complaints are made by this office and in this manner the evil has been curtailed to a great extent but not elim- inated, as it has been difficult to secure evidence which the department deemed sufficient to take action. The supervisor has spent much time in the investi- gation of these cases and so far as is in his power has made an earnest effort to carry out the rules and regulations. EMPLOYEES. Tliere are at present 30 regular employees engaged in the administration, maintenance, protection, and care of the interests of the reservation. All of these employees were appointed from Arkansas under civil-service rules. THE OERTEL SYSTEM OF MOUNTAIN CLIMBING. The Oertel system of graduated exercise laid out in four courses on Hot Springs and North Mountains and completed last year has been the source of much benefit to the visiting public, and a large number of persons avail them- selves of these courses for their exercisfe. SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. 19 There has been quite a demand for the map showing these courses, and pliy- sicians as well as patrons seem highly pleased that these courses have been established. They will be used more from year to year when the public becomes better acquainted with this scientific method of exercise. This being the only course of the kind in this country, the people naturally have to become ac- quainted with the benefits to be derived from its use. IMPROVEMENTS. Roads and bridges have been repaired and rubble-stone retaining walls con- structed in various places on the reservation where required. The necessary repairs have been made to the free bathhouse and various pavilions and to the supervisor's office and residence. In addition there has been much time and labor spent in the beautification and maintenance of Reserve Park, as well as Whittington Lake Park, in the way of cultivating flowers and shrubbery, planting and trimming hedges, main- taining and cutting lawns, pruning trees, and work generally necessary to promote the beauty of the park, and it is safe to say that the Hot Springs Mountain Reservation never looked better than at the present time. NEW SPRING. During the latter part of September, while excavating for the foundation of the Superior Bathhouse, there was developed a flow of hot water from a point near the Superior Reservoir at the northeast corner of the men's bathing hall of the bathhouse. This spring had a flow of approximately 22,000 gallons every 24 hours and the temperature being 147° F. Upon instructions from the depart- ment the water was secured and piped into the general supply line connected up with the main impounding reservoir in the rear of the supervisor's office. ADMISSION OF AUTOMOBILES ON WEST MOUNTAIN ROAD. The department under date of February 7, 1916, authorized the superin- tendent to permit automobiles to use the main West Mountain Road, and accordingly, after due notification through the newspapers, this road was opened to automobiles on February 22, 1916, under certain regulations approved by the department January 22, 1916. GOVERNMENT FREE BATHHOUSE. The Government Free Bathhouse has been operated during the past year for the indigent in accordance with the acts of Congress of December 16, 1878, and March 2, 1911, with the following results : Total applications for free baths 6, 328 Number refused 281 Tickets issued to — White males 3, 793 White females L—, .566 Colored males ^ ! 1, 053 Colored females . 635 Total tickets issued on original applications 6, 047 Tickets reissued to- White males ^^ 774 White females ^ 1 122 Colored males 219 Colored females 57 Total tickets reissued 1, 172 Total tickets to — White males 4, 567 AVhite females 688 Colored males '. 1, 272 Colored females 692 Total tickets, including reissues 7, 219 20 SUPERIlSrTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. Baths given : White males 64, 448 White females 10, 154 Colored males 19, 026 Colored females 9, 770 Total baths given 103,398 Average number of persons bathed daily, 336+. Examination of the above table shows a decrease of approximately 18 per cent in tlie number of tickets issued, baths given, and daily average, due to the rigid enforcement of the acts of Congress and of the rules and regulations governing the bathhouse and to the investigation of a number of cases resulting in the baths being denied to a number of persons who had been bathing for som.e time when they did not require the baths or were able to pay for them elsewhere. It is belieA^ed that all persons now bathing in this bathhouse are actually indigent within the full sense and meaning of the law and are entitled to the baths. FKKE CLINIC. In compliance with a request from several of the registered physicians and in accordance with my recommendation the department under date of March 15, 1916, authorized these physicians to use the vacant rooms over the Government Free Bathhouse for clinic purposes, and also granted them the use of the equip- ment which had heretofore been purchasefl by the department for the use of the former medical director. On April 1, following the authority, a free clinic was organized for the pui*- pose of giving medical treatment to patrons of the Government bathhouse who were unable to obtain means to pay for medical treatment, and also to ascertain as nearly as possible the effects of the hot water on cases not under medical treatment. This work is in its infancy and so far much good has resulted and benefits rendered to these unfortunate people. The clinic is operated between the hours of 1 and 3 p. m. every day except Sundays and holidays, and the physicians who are giving their time to this work are to be commended for their efforts. Upon the reconstruction or remodeling of the free bathhouse it is intended to finish up a modern clinic, and when this shall have been accomplished to fully equip it in such a manner as to better facilitate the work. The monthly reports from the clinic indicate that they have observed 382 cases from April 1 to June 30, inclusive. PHYSIOLOGICAL TESTS OF THE WATER. The purpose of organizing a free clinic at the Government Free Bathhouse was largely to observe the physiological effects of the hot water and its thera- peutic value. This is being done to determine the effects of the waters upon the pulse, temperature, and blood pressure, as follows : 1. Determination of atmospheric temperature in the bath hall and the temper- ature of the water in each pool. 2. Observation of the pulse, temperature, and blood pressure before the bath. 3. Observation of the pulse, temperature, and blood pressure in the bath at various intervals. 4. Recording the duration of the bath. 5. Observation of the pulse, temperature, and blood pressure after the baths at various intervals to determine the degrees of reaction and the duration of same. 6. An observation of the results to determine the influence on the reaction obtained on persons of widely different ages, the number of previous baths, air temperature in the bathhouse, temperature of the water, and duration of the baths ; also the rapidity and duration of the reaction. Also observation is being made on the blood pressure, the effects of the hot water on the leucocytes, the polynuclear cells of the blood, and its phagocytic power. We hope to be able during the next year by observing closely the above plan to furnish some interesting data concerning the therapeutic value of the waters. LEGEND. [The numbers in this list refer to the smaller nu ru- bers on the map; the larger numbers on the n:;iii are the numbers of the squares.] 1. Superintendent's office. 2. Lamar bathhouse. 3. BuckstafE baths. 4. Ozark bathhouse. 5. Magnesia bathhouse. 6. Horse Shoe bathhouse. 7. Palace bathhouse. 8. Maurice bathhouse. 9. Hale bathhouse. 10. Superior bathhouse. 11. Arlington Hotel and baths. 12. Government free bathhouse. 13. Imperial bathhouse. 14. Hot Springs bathhouse and hotel. 15. Rector bathhouse and Waukesha Hotel. 16. Rockafellow bathhouse and hotel. 17. Majestic Hotel and baths. 18. St. Joseph Infirmary. 19. Great Northern Hotel and baths. 20. Post office. 21. Business Men's League. 22. Rock Island Station. 23. Iron Mountain Station. 24. Ozark Sanitarium. 25. Alhambra bathhouse. 26. Moody Hotel and baths. 27. City Hall and Auditorium Theater. 28. == Electric street car line. 29. Main entrance to reservation. 30. Park Hotel and baths. 31. Eastman Hotel and baths. 32. Arkansas National Bank. 33. Security Bank. 34. Citizens National Bank. 35. Elks' Home and Masonic Temple. 36. First Baptist Church. 37. First Methodist Church. 38. Episcopal Church. 39. Catholic Chvu-ch. 40. First Presbyterian Church. 41. Whittington Lake Park. 42. High-school building. 43. County courthouse. 44. Superintendent's official residence. North, West, and Hot Springs Mountains and Whittington Lake Park form the permanent Hot Springs Reservation, owned and operated by the Government. 65399—16. (To face page 20.) 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' FOREST FIRES. No serious damage was done by forest fires during the past year, all fires re- ported having been easily brought under control by the park rangers, assisted by other park employees. CLEARING OF THICKETS AND UNDERBRUSH. The existence of thickets and dense growths of underbrush in certain timber areas on the floor of Yosemite Valley and in the Big Tree Groves and the slashings left on the cut-over lands adjacent to the park timberlands along the Wawona Road and along the west and south boundaries of the Mariposa Big Tree Grove constitute a menace of large proportions in the consideration of fire protection. Fires originating in such thickets or slashings, and with a favor- able wind, quickly become uncontrollable and large areas are apt to be burned over before they can be stopped from spreading. Such thickets should be thinned out, and in cases where the slashings adjoin park timberlands fire lanes should be cleared out of sufficient width to obviate any danger of fires spreading to the timbered areas. INSECT CONTROL. Some three years ago the department realized the necessity of instituting a campaign against the various classes of beetle depredating on the park forests. Since that time much effective work has been done with the result that, with one exception, all of the infested ai'eas have been brought pretty well under control. The one area which has failed to yield to control is located in the Cathedral Basin, near Lake Tenaya. This area is forested almost entirely by lodge-pole pine. While other areas, since control operations were initiated, have shown each year a marked decrease in attacks, this one shows a very marked increase. A recent examination by Assistant Forest Entomologist J. M. Miller, of the Department of Agriculture, indicates that unless severe measures are taken in this area in the near futiii'e the entire lodge-pole stand will be exterminated. He estimates that under no condition can more than 50 per cent of the stand be saved, and then only in the event control operations on a large scale are promptly undertaken. LOGGING OPERATIONS. Logging operations on private and Government lands within the park have been prosecuted on a large scale during the past year by the city and county of San Francisco in its development of the Hetch Hetchy project and by the Yosemite Lumber Co., but more principally the latter. The latter company has cut over during the last year about 370 acres of timber land lying within the boundaries of the park. A small percentage (42 acres) of this has been cut under restrictions whereby trees were left for seed and scenic purposes. The city and county of San Francisco has cut over about 900 acres of a total area of 1,200 acres to be cleared in the Hetch Hetchy Valley. Of the total 1,200 acres to be cleared, about 400 acres is Government land. In addition to " this it has cut over 120 acres of its own lands on what is known as Canyon Ranch. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 45 PATENTED LANDS. Attention has been called in previous annual reports to the necessity for the abolishment, either by purchase or exchange, of private land and timber hold- ings within the park. Agreements have recently been made by which the Gov- ernment acquires from the Yosemite Lumber Co. some 200 acres of timberland along the Wawona Road and 360 acres from the city and county of San Fran- cisco near Hog Ranch. This is in addition to acquisitions immediately follow- ing the act of Congress of April 9, 1912. There is also a proposition now being considered for an exchange between the department and the Yosemite Lumber Co. by which the departiuent would acquire the bulk of the lands within the park boundaries in the vicinity of the INIerced and Tuolumne Big Tree Groves. RANGER SERVICE. The present ranger force consists of 1 chief park ranger, 1 assistant chief park ranger, 1 special park ranger in charge of maintenance of roads, trails, etc., 1 special park ranger in charge of timber cutting in connection with the operations of the Yosemite Lumber Co. and the city and county of San Fran- cisco, and 3 regular park rangers, and 19 additional temporary rangers are employed during the months of heavy travel. INEORMATION BUREAU. The bureau of information established last year was continued in operation in charge of one of the park rangers. The opening of the roads on the floor of the valley at the beginning of the season of 1916 to general automobile travel greatly augmented the interest of motorists in the park, and the consequent increase in motor travel during the 1916 season, as compared with that of 1915, demonstrates the popularity of this action on the part of the department. The rule of one-way travel was rigidly adhered to at the beginning of the season. Later, however, as dangerous curves were eliminated, and narrow stretches of the roads were widened, the roads were gradually opened to two-way traffic until at present the freedom of the roads is given to the motoring public under proper speed regulation. With such regulation of speed the valley roads are reasonably safe, and it is recom- mended that during the coming season all restrictions as to direction of travel be eliminated, except that of one-way traffic on the Big Oak Flat and Wawona grades. On these grades travel should be restricted, as at p'resent, to going and coming on alternate hours. The total number of automobiles entering the park during the period October 1, 1915, the date of the annual report, and September 30, 1916, was 4,043, of which 3,843 were from- California. This includes, in addition to the regularly purchased tickets, complimentary tickets to county, State, and Federal officials in the park on official business. The travel, segregated as to points of entrance, was as follows : Cars. Alder Creek, Wawona Road _. 2,370 Merced Grove, Coulterville Road 426 Crane Flat, Big Oak Flat Road 553 El Portal, El Portal Road (cars shipped to El Portal over Y. V. R. R.)__ 6 Aspen Valley, Tioga Road 106 Tioga Pass, Tioga Road 578 Hog Ranch, Hetch Hetchy Road 4 Total 4, 048 Total for previous year 2, 270 Increase 1, 773 Increase over pi-evious year 78 per cent. Entering park in private automobiles during period Oct. 1, 1915, to People. Sept. 30, 1916 14, 527 Entering park in private automobiles during previous year , 7, 377 Increase over previous year 7, 150 Automobile transportation service on the ffoor of the valley, initiated during the sen son of 1915, was continued with increased facilities, running on regulai schedules and at fixed rates between camps and hotels and to the various points of interest in thfe valley. 65399—16 4 46 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. Visitors to the park during the period October 1, 1915, to September 30, 1916, reached a total of 33,396, an increase of 1,748, or 5.5 per cent, over the total of the year ending September 1, 1915, the date of last annual report. This increase is largely due .to the increased freedom allowed private cars on the park roads, especially on the roads on the floor of the valley. FISH AND GAME. Since the beginning of the 1916 season a more determined effort has been made to enforce the park regulations as to fishing. The question of the con- servation of fish in the park is an important one since fishing is, particularly in the back country, one of the main attractions which draws the tourist to those parts. The transportation of small fry to high mountain lakes and streams is difficult as, well as expensive. It is, therefore, very essential, as a factor in fish conservation, that the regulation limiting the day's catch to 20 be rigidly enforced. In addition to this, the work of stocking lakes and streams and restocking others should go on year by year so far as prac- ticable in order that the demand may continue to be met. Considerable good work is being done by the park rangers in transplanting fish from streams already stocked to those where none exist. This is a very effective method of stocking and should be encouraged. Since the month of May the State law requiring a State fishing license has been enforced in the park for the first time in many years. The regulation prohibiting hunting inside of the park is rendering a great service in the protection of game. The park has become, as a result, a great summer feed ground and breeding place for deer, and it is understood from .those who are familiar with the conditions that all classes of game, particularly deer, are on the increase. Unfortunately, however, with all its summer feeding grounds and breeding places, the park has practically no winter feeding grounds, due to the high altitude of all of the areas inclosed by the pnrk boundaries. The result is that much of the good work of protection within the park goes for naught Avhen in the fall the deer drift down to the lower altitudes outside of the park boundaries, where they fall prey to hunters who await their coming not far from the park boundaries. A possible solution of this problem would be the creation of a neutral zooe of 5 or 6 miles in width , along the southern and western boundaries of the park in which hunting would be prohibited at all seasons of the year. Such a zone would open up winter pastures at low altitudes and would do much for the protection and increase of game life within and adjacent to the park. FIKEAKMS. Approximately 1,500 firearms of various sorts and calibers have been sealed or taken up during the year. At present firearms carried by through automobile passengers are sealed and the owners are permitted to retain possession. In such cases the number of guns sealed is stated on the permit and the seals are broken by the ranger at the point of exit. Those brought into the park by people on foot or horseback are taken up and turned in to the supervisor's ■office, whence they are shipped to the owner at the latter's risk. This method of handling firearms has proven very satisfactory. There should, however, be Incorporated in the firearms regulations a clause stating, in effect, that in cases wdiere arms once sealed are later found with seals broken, or in cases where arms are In-ought into the park unsealed in direct violation of the regulations, or in cases where there is any attempt to evade the regulations by denial of possession or concealment, said arms shall be promptly confiscated and the party shall forfeit all claim thereto. EECO^MENDATION S . To meet ibe demand for new circuits next year, a new switchboard will have to be installed. It is urgently recommended that these lines be replaced by metallic circuits of No. 9 wire, and of uniform construction. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 47 SEQUOIA AND GENERAIi GRANT NATIONAL PARKS. Walter Fkt, Supervisor, Three Rivers, Cal. GENERAL STATEMENT. Tiie Sequoia National Parlr. set aside by act of September 25, 1890 (26 Stat., 478), and act of October 1, 1890 (26 Stat., 650), is located in Tulare County, Cal. It has an area of 161,597 acres and ranges in altitude from 1,100 feet to 11,900 feet. The General Grant National Park, set aside by act of October 1, 1890 (26 Stat., 650). is located one-half in Tulare County and one-half in Fresno County. Cal. It has an area of 2.536 acres and ranges in altitude from 5,250 feet to 7,631 feet. The Sequoia National Park derives its name and much of its interest from the presence of many large groves of " big trees " (Sequoia wasJiingtoniana) , and the General Grant National Park was thus named by reason of the " General Grant tree." so widely known for its size and beauty. Both of these parks are situated on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada and contain some of the most rugged alpine scenery to be found on the continent. The magnificent forests within their borders can not be considered their only striking feature. There is much to be seen that is unique among the marvels of nature. The combination of rivers and lakes with forest-covered mountains and here and there snow-capped summits reach- ing far above timber line may well hold the traveler spellbound, for in but few countries in the world maj' be seen its equal. Hidden in the fastness of their towering mountains are found many wonderful and awe-inspiring scenes, many of them equaling in grandeur and impressiveness those found in the world-renowned Alps which for years have attracted the gaze of multitudes. t GENERAL CONDITIONS. The rainfall and snowfall during the winter of 1915-16 were far above the normal, resulting in much damage to roads and trails and delay in traffic through high altitudes. Owing to deep snow and high. waters in the higher elevations traffic above the 7,500-foot leyel was not accomplished until July 1. Repair and improvement work was commenced on roads, trails, and telephone lines on April 15 and completed by .Tune 30. The parks were opened for accommodation of the public on May 25, at which time all park concessionaires began active operations. There are hotels, stores, feed 5'ards, post offices, tele- phone stations, and photograph galleries in each of the parks, and physician and surgeon in the Sequoia Park. Regular automobile transportation service is operated between Lemon Cove Railroad Station and Giant Forest in the Sequoia Park and between Sanger and General Grant Park. The distance from Lemon Cove to Giant Forest is 40 miles and from Sanger to General Grant Park 46 miles. REPAIRS AND IMPROVEMENTS. A new road 3,900 feet in length has been built to take the place of that portion of the Mineral King Road at Lookout Point just inside the western boundary of the park, thus doing away with that portion of the old road which was too steep of grade to admit traffic feasible thereover. The new road is of easy grade and good width. Twenty-seven miles of the Giant Forest Road, were graded and right of way cleared of fallen timber, rocks, and landslides! Sixty-seven miles of the Alta, Seven-Mile Hill, Black Oak, Colony Mill, Hos- pital, and Middle Fork Trails have been improved by their being widened from 3 feet to 5 feet and the building of retaining walls oa their lower s\de along the steep mountain sides, thus insuring more safety to travel. Fifty-four miles of the South Fork Trail and intersecting trails have been repaired and are in good condition. The old Marble Fork Bridge that collapsed during winter storms has been repaired. General Grant Park. — Three and one-half miles of the Stephens Grade Road were widened from 10 feet to 16 feet. Four and one-half miles of the North Park and Millwood Roads were gj-aded and five additional passing points for vehicles constructed. 48 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. GUABDING THE PAEKS. The supervisor is assisted throughout the j'ear by three permanent park- rangers and during the sumnaer months by eight additional park rangers in the Sequoia Park, and by one permanent park ranger, and during the summer months by one additional park ranger in the General Grant Park, lieguhir and constant patrols are made by these men in all parts of the reservations. Four of the above temporary park i-augers were detailed to various rofid and trail entrances to the Sequoia Park, whose principal duties were the issuing of auto- mobile permits, checking of traffic, taking up of firearms, and the issuing of instructions to and the registration of park visitors. PARK VISITORS. Visitors throughout the season showed a gratifying disposition to observe the park rules and regulations, and they seemed to enjoy' the parks thoroughly. More persons visited the parks this season than during any previous year. Between March 1 and September 30 there were 10,780 visitors to Sequoia Park, of whom 5,019 remained for a period of three days or more, and 5,668 were transient tourists. Travel to Sequoia Park by different entrances. Giant Forest Road — : 4,808 Mineral King Road 1, 653 Elk Park Road _^ 1, 531 South Fork Trail 442 Quiun-Little Kern Trail 443 Kings River Trail 535 Black Oak Trail 350 Halstead Meadow Trail . 423 Hockett-Tar Gap Trail • 240 Seven-Mile Hill Trail 3-"')5 Total 10,780 Means of transportation to Sequoia Park. Sequoia National Park Transportation Co., automobile stage 293 Automobile i ' - 3, 541 Motorcycle 6 Wagon • 2, 846 Mounted on horse 3, 6J5 Afoot : 399 Total 10,780 Residence of visitors to Sequoia National Park. United States : United States — Continued. Arizona 6 Oklahoma 12 Alaska 8 Texas 7 California 10, 521 Washington 21 Colorado '. 11 Wisconsin 6 Connecticut 14 Distript of Columbia 12 Total— 10,755 Georgia 9 ■ Hawaii 2 Foreign countries: Illinois 21 Australia 6 Iowa 7 Cliina 8 Kansas 14 England 5 Michigan 11 Fi-ance 2 Missouri 14 Japan 4 Nebraska 10 • New York 18 Total 25 Ohio 12 — ' ■' ■ Oregon 19 Grand total 10r780 Between May 1 and September 30 there were 15,360 visitors to General Grant Park, of whom 6,298 remained for a period of three days or more, and 8,928 were transient tourists. SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIOITAL PAEKS. 49 Travel to General Grant National Park by different entrancept. Stephens Grarle Road 10.464 Millwoocl Road 1. 879 Lfike Road 2, 075 Halstead Meadow Trail 942 Total 15,360 Means of transportation to General Grant National Parle. Kinirs River-Hume Auto Service Co 1,836 CalA'in IMarple. automobile sta^e 251 Peter Hnux, saddle and wagon transportation 199 Automobile 8, 551 Motorcycle 1 45 Wfipon , 2, 531 Mounted, horse 853 Afoot 1, 494 Total 15,360 Residenee of visitors to General Gi-ant National Parle. T7ni ted States* United States — Continued. Alaska 4 Nebraska 46 Arizona 15 New York 38 Arkansas 4 Oregon 7 Cnlifornia 14,992 Connecticut 5 Total 15, 208 Colorndo 16 • District of Columbia 14 Foreign countries : OeorfTia 13 Australia 10 Illinois 71 Canada 8 Indiana 12 Iowa i_ 46 Total 18 K^^nsas 32 =^= Missouri 27 Grand total 15,360 BOADS. The following is a report of the roads in the Sequoia and Gen. Grant National I'arks : Sequoia Park. — The three roads entering the park are the Giant Forest, the Elk Park, and the IMineral King, all of which lead out from the one county road in the vicinity of Three Rivers west of the park and terminate at the following points in th;^ high Sierras : The Giant Forest Road terminates at Wolverton, in the northeastern portion of the park; the Elk Park at Moro Creek, in the east central portion of the park ; and the Mineral King at Mineral King, 6 miles east of and through the southern portion of the park. Of the Giant Forest Road there are 29 miles within the park, of the Elk Park 10 miles, and of the Mineral King 11 miles ; thus aggregating a total of 50 miles of road system within the park. All the above-mentioned are earth roads located over a very rough mountain- ous country, and the two former are what may be termed good mountain roads but fire yet lacking in proper width and drainage system, and in a few localities their location should be so changed as to eliminate therefrom certain sections that are too steep of grade. About one-half that portion of the Mineral King Road within the park is too steep of grade to admit traffic feasible thereover, and in such places the road should be relocated and a new road built to take the place of the old road. The difficult problems that obtain over all Aese roads are due to the fact that each road runs to a certain different scenic portion of the park, whei'e they terminate ; thus in every instance traffic is forced to return over the same route as that of their entry, a fact undesirable. In order to obviate the foregoing condition it is essential that these roads all be united by a road system from north to south through the eastern portion of the park, the said 50 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. system to begin at a point on the county road at Big Meadow north of the park, thence to Wolverton, a distance of 16 miles ;' tlience from Giant Forest to Moro Creeii, 7 miles ; thence to Mineral King Road at eastern park boundary, 9 miles. Thus it will be seen that by the construction of this 32 miles of road system the Sequoia and Gen. Grant National Parks would be united by same, separate ro-utes for travel would be created, and it would make accessible to travel 210 miles of roads between Sanger in a northerly direction and Lemon Cove in a southerly direction over the most scenic portion of the high Sierras, a fact that will never be acquired otherwise. Geti. Grant Park. — There are 13* miles of earth roads within the park, with names and different entrances as follows : The Stephens Grade Road enters the park from the south, the North Park Road from the north, and the Millwood and Lake Roads from the west. These roads should all be improved in manner of their being widened and the construction of additional drain culverts. The Stephens Grade-North Park Road, 4 miles in length, should be macadamized, as this road forms the only connecting link from all county roads from the San Joaquin Valley west of the park to the Kings River Canyon State Highway to the east of the park, hence it is assured that traffic over the road will always be very great and increase with enormous rapidity from year to year. With sincere regret I record the accidental death near Visalia, Cal., on April 22, 1916, of Charles Willard Blossom, chief park ranger of the Sequoia National Park, which was caused by the overturning of his automobile in which he was riding and driving. Mr. Blossom had taken the day on annual leave and was returning from Visalia to duty in the park when the accident occuri'ed. Mr. Blossom had served as park ranger in the Sequoia National Park for a period of over 13 years, and I do not know of a man in the service with a better record. His intense love for the mountains and passion for the splen- dors of nature lured him to the parks and fitted him for the work. He was a man of understanding and a full sense of high honor. To his love for the out of doors was added a love for his fellow man, which endeared him to all who knew him. Fishing in the parks was seemingly better during the 1916 season in all the waters other than that of Wolverton Creek and' Marble Fork River in the Se- quoia Park, upon both of which streams there has been heavy drain from year to year by patrons of the Giant Forest tourist camp in the near-by vicinity. Conceding the importance in bringing this class of sport to a higher degree of attractiveness, a consignment of 78,000 rainbow trout was procured, by dona- tion, by the California board of fish and game commissioners, and liberated in waters of the Sequoia Park as follows : Middle Fork Kaweah River, 62,000 ; Wolverton Creek, 16,000. All game in the parks is protected, except predatory animals and harmful species of r'odents which are permitted to be killed by the park rangers. Deer and bear are numerous and usually very tame. Elk are occasionally seen, but more often outside than within the parks. Their range has been materially extended of recent years. They now roam to the headwaters of Tule River to the south. Sheep Creek to the north, Redwood Meadow to the east, and Manikin P'lat to the west ; thus comprising a range area of some 195 square miles. Wild turkeys are fairly abundant in the Sequoia Park in the vicinity of the junction of the Middle Fork and Marble Fork of the Kaweah Rivers, and there is every indication of their having become firmly established. Of the three different types that were placed in the park during the seasons of 1909-10, viz, Mexican gray, Arizona bronze, and Texas black, the two former species seem to have entirely disappeared. This fact is attributed to their either having died, been caught by predatory wild animals, or blended to such extent as to form inter- gradation to the latter mentioned species. It would seem, however, the latter to be the most feasible of the three causes given. The turkeys range in two separate groups ; one that ranges at the mouth of the Marble Fork is quite tame like most other birds of the parks but the other has 'a higher altitudinal range several miles in extent and are so wary it is difficult to ever see them. Grouse SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 51 aiul quail are abundant, although quail are not so numerous as last year. Last winter severe weather drove the quail to lower altitudes and many of them west of the parks, where hunting parties killed a great many of them. Squirrels, rabbits, and wild pigeons seem to be about holding their own, but there is marked decrease in the number of doves. Owing to the refilling with water again last winter of the Tulare Lake region west of the parks, thus providing ample water and food for all species of ducks and geese, but few of such ever drifted into the parks. GAME PRESERVE. The Sequoia and General Grant National Parks are of particular importance . as a game preserve because, of all American possessions, they are among the ones in which frontier conditions promise to last the longest. Notwithstanding their vast wealth in forests and scenic attractions, their territory will never be populated, and as a consequence all animal and bird life will prosper. Even if game remained abundant in some portions of the United States, still the game of these parks would be of special interest because they include many species of animal and bird life quite different in kind and habits. The wholesome interest in nature study and outdoor life recently awakened in the United States is likely to be permanent, and future generations, whether hunt- ers, naturalists, animal photographers, or simply lovers of nature, will set a high value upon the possession of this undespoiled territory furnishing primi- tive haunts for many species of birds and wild animals. FAUNA AND FLOEA. The number of species of fauna and flora in the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks proves to be very large. This is accounted for practically by reason of the very great variety of climate they possess, greater than occurs in any other park in the Union, grading all the way from the upper austral zone of the San Joaquin Valley to the arctic climate of perpetual snow on the summits of the high Sierras. They possess a range of climate conlprising four different life zones of habitation, and in some portions a climate peculiar to the region alone. POST OFFICES AND MAIL FACILITIES. On L>ecember 23, 1915, the name of the Ranger post office in the Sequoia National Par\v was changed to that of Giant Forest. No contract has yet been awarded for supplying mail to this office, and vmder the present system mail is carried thrice a week between the park office and Lemon Cove, Cal., a distance of 40 miles, the first-class mail being carried for two-thirds the cancellation thereon and the parcel-post matter at the rate of 2 cents per pound. The present system is very unsatisfactory and bids should be solicited whereby the office be supplied with a daily mail service under contract, Sundays excepted, for the period June 1 to September 30 of each year. The thrice-a-week mail route that applied between General Grant National Park and Badger, Cal., was discontinued and a new contract put into effect on June 10, 1916, for daily service, Sundays excepted, between Sanger, Cal., and the park. Nothing more appropriate could have been accomplished than this change looking to the welfare of the park visitors. FOREST CONDITIONS. The forests of the parks are in healthy condition. The past season has been the most favorable in the past 10 years for the rapid growing and the prolific germinating of all species of the , coniferfe family. The restocking with seedlings over former burnt areas has made rapid progress. There is heavy undergi'owth everywhere. The rate of growth varies greatly, not only according to soil and moisture, but also according to exposure and the in- fluence of surrounding vegetation. Almost invariably the restocking has been with the same species that occupied the ground before. The cold, freezing weather that prevailed in the parks all above the 3,000-foot elevations, covering a period May 18 to 21, inclusive, destroyed practically all the 1916 seed crop of the coniferse species other than that of the sequoia ; also many species of 52 suPEEiiSrTE:NDE]srT of national paeks, the oak seed were destroyed from the same cause ; hence but little or no repro- duction may be expected next year from those affected species. FOEEST INSPECTION. During the months of July, August, and September of the present year in- spection was made of practically all the coniferous forest belt of the parks, comprising an area of approximately 133,920 acres. This inspection was per- formed by the park rangers and in connection with their regular patrol duty. No new outbreaks of insect or disease enemies of the forests have been detected. FOREST FIRES. Three forest fires were started in the Sequoia Park during the season, two set by lightning and one cause of origin unknown, but were detected and extin- guished by park rangers before damage was done. Two fires that started in the vicinity west of the park and threatened serious damage thereto were extinguished prior to their, entering the park by park and forest rangers, volunteer and paid fire-fighting men. Mr. Oliver R. Prien, park ranger, Yosemite National Park, was transferred to duty in the Sequoia National Park, effective May 1.5, 1916, to fill the vacancy / of Charles W. Blossom, deceased. WEATHER CONDITIONS. The past season was a dry one ; only upon three occasions after May IS was there precipitation over the park areas, and that practically of no consequence. The weather was generally clear and the atmosphere cool and pleasant. BECOJI MENDATION S. (1) That Unit(^d States Congress be requested to provide measures whereby title to the deeded land within the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks be acquired by the United States Government; (2) that the State of California be requested to cede to the United States Government entire jurisdiction of the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks; (8) that the boundaries of the Sequoia National Park be extended to conform to those suggested by Mr. K. B. Marshall, Superintendent of National Parks. MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK. D. L. Reabuen, Supervisor, Ashford, AVash. GENERAL STATEMENT. Mount Rainier National Park was created by act of Congress approved March 2, 1899, and exclusive jurisdiction of the territory so set asid' was ceded to the United States by act of the Legislature of the State of V'nshington approved March 16, 1901. Exclusive jurisdiction of the reservatior was accepted by act of Congress approved June 30, 1916. The park is located in the western part of the State of Washington, imme- diately west of the summit of the Cascade Mountains, and about 40 miles southeasterly from the southern end of Puget Sound. It is situated largely in T'ierce County, but a portion lies in Lewis County. The main entrance to the park is located near the southwest corner, distant by automobile road 93 miles from Seattle, 56 miles from Tacoma, and 6A miles from Ashford, on the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, a branch line of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway. Longmire Springs, distant 6* miles by automobile road from the main en- trance, is the headquarters within the park of the park supervisor, the Rainier National Park Co., and other concessioners. Longmire Springs is connected by telephone to Seattle, Tacoma, and the principal camps and ranger stations within the park. Mount Rainier National Park is in charge of a supervisor, who is assisted throughout the year by a clerk-stenographer and three permanent park rangers. SUPEKINTEl^DENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. 53 During the summer season the local force was increased by 6 temporary park rangers, a construction foreman, a locating engineer, and fi'om 50 to 150 men. The local post-office address is Ashford, Wash. TOPOGBAPHY. The northwest corner of the park, by road and trail travel, is about 45 miles southeast from the tidewaters of Puget Sound, an arm of the Pacific Ocean, from which waters and the country surrounding the main object of interest in the park, Mount Rainier, appears during the prevalence of ordinary clear weather as a most imposing spectacle — an ice and snow clad dome 14,408 feet high. The park reserve is a nearly perfect square, the sides of which are 18 miles in length, and contains, therefore, 324 square miles, or sections of 640 acres each (207.360 acres), and is completely surrounded by lands embraced within the Rainier National Forest. Near the center of the park is the summit of Mount Rainier, from which radiates a system of glaciers, ranking in importance with any similar system or group of glaciers in the world. There are more than a score of these glaciers, from which originate four important rivers — the Nisqually, the Puyal- lup, the White, and the Cowlitz — the three first named having large electric- power generating plants located on them at points outside the park, but all dependent upon this glacial system and the waters originating therein. The Cowlitz is as important as the others in this respect, but as yet completed de- velojiment of power-generating plnnts has not been accomplished. The general elevation at the boundary lines of the park of the glacial valleys is 2,000 feet above sea level. From the boundary lines these valleys afford a comparatively easy grade to the lower ends or " snouts " of the various glacier's, approximately an average additional elevation of 2,000 feet. At these glacial snouts the real Alpine nature of Mount Rainier National Park territory is thrust upon the traveler, and from, over, around, and alongside the glaciers trails have been constructed with a view to making the wonders of nature within the park easily accessible as well as to provide patrol routes for the protection of the forests and game. These trails lead to the camps or pjirk known as Paradise Valley (Camp of the Clouds), Indian Henrys Hunting Ground (Wigwam Hotel), Van Trump Park, Cowlitz Park, Ohanapecosh Valley, and Silver Spray Falls, Moraine Park, Grand Park, Elysian Fields, Spray Park, Natural Bridge, Cataract Basin, St. Andrews Park, Glacier Basin, etc. The main wagon road to this vast wonderland leads out from Tacoma and Seattle and is a highly improved thoroughfare for a greater part of the distance from these cities to the park entrance, near the southwest corner of the park,' a distance of 56 miles from Tacoma and 93 miles from Seattle. At the park gate this road is met by the road built and maintained by the Government within the parlc. The Government end of this road is 20.4 miles in length, leading from the entrance gate (elcv-ation, 2,003 feet) to Longmire Springs (6.6 miles; elevation 2,750 feet) ; thence to foot of Nisqually Glacier (5 3 miles; elevation 8,909 feet) ; thence to Narada Falls (4.1 miles; elevation 4,572 feet) ; thence to the Camp of the Clouds, in Paradise Valley (4.4 miles; elevation 5,557 feet). To this point the road is open to automobiles during the summer months. The road above Nisqually Glacier was opened to automobiles for the first time on Tune 20, 1915. FOEEST CONDITIONS. More than 200 square miles of the park lands are densely timbered. Douglas fir, white cedar, Alaska cedar, and hemlock are the predominating varieties. In addition to those named, the following varieties are found at various points within the park: Lovely fir. Noble fir, Alpine fir, silver fir, Alpine hemlock, spruce, white pine, black (or lodge pole) pine, alder, cottonwood, quaking aspen, broad-leaf maple, vine maple, and smooth-leaf maple. At an approxnuate general elevation of 4,500 feet the density of timber growth gradually diminishes until the extreme timber line is reached. The intervening areas, which are usually benches or plateaus on the long, sloping ridges separating the various glacial basins, form beautiful natural parks, in some of which tent camps or hotels are established and to which tourists resort in large numbers for rest and recreation. These natural parks and tent camps serve as bases for the arduous task of ascending to the summit of Mount Rainier, and for exploring the lesser mountain peaks, the glaciers, snow fields, and canyons so numerous within the park areas and in the areas surrounding. 54 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. These upland meadows, benches, phiteaus, or natni-al parks are beautifully adorned by nature with flowers and shrubs of infinite variety and color and fur- nish to the most skilled botanist, not to speak of the amateur and the mere lover of the beautiful, problems in nature study never ending. Nearly 400 varieties of plant life are known to grow within the park. iiotith Side Road. — The (Jovernment road from tlie southwest corner of the park to Paradise Valley, 20.4 miles Wng, was constructed under direction of the War Department at an original cost of $240,000, and was opened for travel in 1910. The section of road above Nisqually Glacier was- opened to automobiles on June 20, 1915. It is operated on a one-way schedule, by which automobiles leave Nisqually Glacier and Paradise on each hour, passing at Narada Falls on the half hour. Tliis traflic Is controlled by three park rngers in telephone com- muniction. The system has proved very satisfactory, and seems to have met with tlie approval of the public. During the past two seasons about 9,000 automobiles and 50,000 people have passed over this section of road without an accident. White River Road. — During the seasons of 1914, 1915, and 1916 the Mount Painier Mining Co., luider a permit from the department, has constructed a wagon road up the north bank of White River from the ranger station at boundary post No. 62 to Glacier Basin, a distance of about 12 miles. The road was built for use by the company in connection with its mining operations in Glacier Basin. It follows practically the water grade of White River, which runs from 2^ per cent in the lower sections to 13J per cent at tim extreme upper end. Only one or two short sections are over 11 per cent. It is a single ti-ack wagon road, graded to a uniform grade, 12 feet wide inside of ditches. The bridges and culverts are 16 feet wide and are well constructed. A considerable portion of the road has been surfaced and the company is now operating an auto truck over it. After the completion next year of the INIcClellan Pass Highway to the ranger station, there will be a strong demand from tourists and park visitors to the north side to use the road. ROAD IMPKOVEMENT. During the past three seasons the following amounts have been expended on maintenance and improvement of the South Side Road : July 1, 1914, to June 30, 1915 - $32,364.19 July 1, 1915, to June 30, 1916 17, 865. 94 Since July 1, 1916 (approximately) 11,000.00 Total 1 61, 230. 13 The work has included general repair and maintenance, consisting of widen- ing, construction of wood and concrete culverts, reshaping and ditching, con- structing rock and timber cril) retaining walls, guard rails, construction and repair of concrete and wooden bridges, clearing of dead and dangerous timber from the roadside, and surfacing with 6 inches of cement gravel.. During the season just ending the old horseshoe bridge above Narada Palls, which was partially destroyed during the winter by a snow slide, was replaced by a high rock fill constructed on a sharp curve. This work cost about $1,000. which included grading and surfacing the approaches for a distance of about 500 feet. The timberwork in the old truss bridge over Van Trump Creek at Christine Falls is badly decayed and the bridge has been condemned for the 1917 season. A new 60-foot span bridge is now being constructed across the box canyon close in to the falls, which involves some heavy excavation in solid rock on the ap- proaches. BOAD SURVEYS. I Cnrhon River Road. — During the months of October and November, 1915, location surveys by a party in charge of Engineer J. G. Morgan were made for an automobile road up the Cai-bon Rivei- Valley, in the northeast corner of the park. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 55 The line follows practically a water grade up the south bank of the Carbon River to Cataract Creek near the snout of Carbon Glacier. The grade varies from 2J per cent at the lower end to 6 per cent at the upper end. This road when constructed and connected with the State and county highway system will shorten the distance to the national park boundary from Tacoma 21 miles and from Seattle 41 miles under the present traveled route through Ashford, and will open up and make accessible to tourist travel tlie most rugged side of the mountain. East Side Road. — Location surveys by Engineer Morgan are now under way for an automobile i-oad, starting from the south side road at Inspiration Point (elevation 4,850) above Narada Falls and following via Reflection Lakes, Stevens Canyon, south end of Cowlitz Divide, Ohanapecosh and Chinock Rivers, to connect with the McClellan Pass State Highway in Cay use Pass (elevation 4,600). The survey is being made on a maximum grade of 6 per cent and the total length is about 26 miles. When completed it will open up the park to the Yakima Valley and the entire eastern ]yart of the State and make it possible for automobilists west of the Cascades to completely encircle the mountain, entering the pnrk via the south- west gate and leaving by the Wliite River entrance, or vice versa. The park trail system, which now entirely encircles the mountain, has a total length of about 150 miles. The trip around the mountain can be made in about seven days, and with proper advertising should become a very popular feature. By making camp each night at certain points in the natural parks and upland meadows the tourist can travel on foot by the shortest route between camps, crossing the glaciers, well above timber line, and obtain a magnificent view of the mountain and surroiuiding country from all angles, affording one of the most interesting scenic trips in the world. No fires occurred within the park during the season of 1916, but there were numerous fires outside the park, and the smoke drifted into the park at times to such an extent that sight-seeing was impossible except in the early morning hours. GAME. Hunting is absolutely prohibited in park territory, and every precaution is taken by park officers to prevent poaching, but the densely wooded nature of the territory adjacent to the park boundary makes it impossible to entirely stop the practice. A great many deer are driven down into the lower elevations by the fall and winter snows. They find their way across the boundary into the favorite hunting grounds, where they are killed in large numbers. It is recommended that steps be taken to create a game preserve surrounding the park. A great many deer and bears have been observed in the park during this sea- son. Bears have broken into the meat houses in the construction camps on sev- eral occasions and carried away considerable quantities of fresh and cured meats. MINING CLAIMS. Mining operations are confined, to claims located prior to the act of Congress of May 27, 1908, prohibiting the location of mineral claims within the national parks. The Mount Rainier Mining Co. have been operating for several years, under permit from the department, on the development of its claims in Glacier Basin. During the past three seasons it has constructed a wagon road up the valley of White River to Glacier Basin and has installed a sawmill, a power and light plant, an aerial tramway, and have driven several hundred feet of tunnels in addition to the construction of several permanent buildings. Its working force has consisted of from 40 to 50 men working the year round. In the vicinity of Longmire Springs the Eagle Peak Copper Mining Co. is working toward the development of two claims, and Sherman Evans and Ike Evans two claims. The Eagle Peak Copper Mining Co. has driven a tunnel 410 feet long and installed a power plant, consisting of a 14-inch turbine wheel, operating under a head of 55 feet and generating about 20 horsepower. 56 SUPEEINTENDENT OP NATIONAL PARKS. Water is conveyed from Paradise River through a flume to tlie wheel. The power is used to operate an 8 by 8 inch Ingersoll Rand compressor with a ca- pacity of 90 cubic feet per minute. Fifty feet of tunnel was driven this year and about 100 feet last year. The Mount Itainier Mining Co. has made several shipments of ore, which assays about $60 per ton. No shipments except for test purposes have been made by the Eagle Peak Go. MIKEKAL SPEINGS. The principal mineral springs, and the only ones of easy access to the tourist, are those located on the patented land at Longmire Springs. Several kinds of mineralized water spring from the ground on this tract. Some of this water has a temperature of 70° F. on reaching the surface. It is heavily charged with sulphur, and a swimming tank is provided in order that visitors may take a "sulphur plunge." • Other waters are charged with iron, and still others are sweet, cool, and sparkling. But little care has been exercised in the past to prevent pollution of these springs. During the past season the property was leased to a company known as the Longmire Springs Hotel Co. This company has constructed 16 new cot- tages and has done considerable work toward cleaning up the springs and grounds. A new two-story hotel building 50 by 100 feet is now under construc- tion, and they plan to construct a new garage for use next season. The Ohanapecosh hot springs, near the southeast corner of the park, are very hot and are noted for their curative qualities. Very little development work has been done on them, and they are accessible by trail only, 13 miles from Lewis, Wash., or 1.5 miles from Narada Falls. They are located just south of the park boundary in the national forest. The small amount of land involved should be added to the park, so that it may be properly developed by the park service, and made available for use of visitors. Fine mineralized water has been discovered along the recently constructed West Side Trail on the South Fork of the Puyallup River, near boundary post No. 16. TKAVEL. The tourist season began at a very late date owing' to the heavy snowfall during the past winter, which prevented opening the road to automobiles until the following dates : To Longmire Springs, May 18; to Nisqually Glacier, June 15; to Narada Falls, .July 14 ; to Paradise Valley, August 24. Up to .Tuly 31 only 5,o97 visitors registered at the park gate, as compared with a total of 10,057 for the season of 1915. During the i)ei-hH\ August 1 to September 15, 14,572 people entered, against - 16,031 for the corresponding pei-iod last year. The total registration for the .season, up to September 30, was as-follows : At the main entrance 22,189 At the Ohanapecosh 100 At the Carbon River and the White River 1, 700 Total - 23,989 Distribution of visitors registering at the main entrance: From Tacoma 6,968 From Seattle 6, 718 From other points in the State of Washington 4,762 From points outside the Stare of Washington 5,541 Total 23, 989 Number entering in private atitomobile 17,795 Number entering by Ashford stage 2,274 Number entering by Seattle and Tacoma stage 1, .586 Number entering by motorcycle 150 Number entering by horse-drawn vehicle J.tjOO Number entering on foot 584 Total 23,989 It is estimated that 3,000 people came into the park for camping purpo.ses. Legend J\fed£aZ /nor-a. cuuZ dirt ban on, ^Zctciej*. Cr-efaases ou ice ccisc-actes SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 57 AUTOMOBILES AND MOTOECYCLES. During the year ended September 30, 1916, 2,926 automobile entrance permits and 97 motoi'cycle permits were issued. HOTELS ANp CAMP ACCOMMODATIONS. Rainier National Park Co. — This has been the first season of operation for the Rainier National Park Co. This organization was formed in March, 1916, accepting a 20-year concession from the Government for hotel, camp, and trans- portation privileges in Mount Rainier National Park. The company is capi- talized at $200,000. Operations of the company for 1916 season have been camps at Paradise Valley, Nisqually Glacier, and park entrance; automobile and auto-stage trans- portation from point to point within the park; also from Tacoma and Ashford to points within the park, and a garage in Paradise Valley. The company is constructing a hotel at Paradise Valley, to be known as Paradise Inn. The extreme lateness of the season, on acjount of heavy snowfall in the park, has seriously interrupted all operations undertaken by the company. This has been especially true in regard to the construction of Paradise Inn. Some of the heavy material for this structure was placed on the ground last fall, hence it was possible to begin operations on the building before the roads were opened for travel. Foundation work was begun about July 20. Timber work was begun on August 23. Notwithstanding these serious delays, the ofhcials of the company feel confident that the new hotel will be completed this fall and opened to the public on July 1, 1917. Paradise Inn is of unusual construction. The frame is made entirely of weathered logs from the silver forest near by. These logs show entirely to the ridgepole in the big lounging room, which is 50 by 112 feet. The dining room is practically the same size. The hotel will accommodate about 400 guests. Cost will be very nearly $100,000. The camp at Paradise Valley has been operated by the company under great disadvantages ; snow conditions prevented automobile travel to the valley until August 25. Prior to that date passengers were transported over the pony trail from Narada Falls to Paradise Valley. All supplies had to be transported in the same manner. Notwithstanding these difficulties, some 4,000 guests have been accommodated at Paradise Camp during the past season. The company's camp at Nisqually Glacier was completed and opened to the public July 7, fully 30 days later than contemplated. Snow conditions made earlier opening impossible. This camp consisted of a lunch pavilion, where meals were served a la carte. Sleeping accommodations were provided by a group of 10 bungalow tents. These were heated and lighted by electricity furnished by the company's new hydroelectric plant. Glacier Camp was favor- ably considered by the public, and the company now plans increasing the bunga- low tent equipment so that there will be 20 double bungalow tents at this location next year. The tent lunch pavilion, in use during the past season, is now being replaced by a neat structure, using weathered logs from the Silver Forest. The camp installed and operated by the company at Park Entrance consisted of a waiting room and lunch pavilion, also three double bungalow tents for use as sleeping quarters. This camp was installed to serve those who might be delayed at this point on account of independent automobile service operating to Park Entrance only. Changes in the plan of admitting independently operated automobiles to the park made the camp at Park Entrance unnecessary, and it was closed on August 7. The company's transportation service from Ashford and from point to point within the park employed six 12-passenger automobile stages and three 7- passenger touring cars. The service from Tacoma to points within the national park employed from four to six 7-passenger touring cars. To serve Paradise Inn, Glacier Camp, and its other developments later on the company has installed a 250-horsepower hydroelectric plant on Van Trump Creek at Christine Falls. This location is approximately 1 mile from Glacier Camp and 2i miles from Paradise Camp. The plant has been in operation since July 15 and has been giving satisfactory. service. National Park Inn. — The franchise to operate this hotel, located at Longmire Springs, is held in the name of the Tacoma Eastern Railroad and expires May 1, 1921. 58 SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. The building is a 2i-story frame structure 125 feet long and 32 feet wide. There are 36 guest rooms in the main building, and .through the use of tents 250 guests may be accommodated. There is in addition a very attractive club- house or assembly room built of pine logs. Water is taken from the Nisqually River for the operation of an electric light and refrigerating plant, which also supplies electric light to all Government buildings at T^ongmire Springs. INFORMATION BUREAU. . ( A bureau of information in charge of Prof. J. B. Flett, park ranger, was maintained at Longmire Springs for the purpose of keeping visitors informed in regard to points of interest in the park, assigning parties to the public camp grounds, etc. Prof. Flett's intimate knowledge of the flora, trees, and points of scenic interest in the park was a source of much interest. This information was sought by large numbers of visitors. CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK. Will G. Steel, Supervisor, Medford, Oreg. GENERAL STATEMENT. Crater Lake National Park was created by act of Congress, approved May 22, 1902. and is located on the crest of the Cascade Mountains, in southern Oregon, about 60 miles from the California line. It is approximately 13i miles east and west and IS miles north and south, and contains 249 square miles, including the Avreck of Mount Mazama, at one time a giant among the mountains of the earth. Subsequently all that portion above 8,000 feet elevation disappeared — sank into the bowels of the earth, leaving a vast crater 5^ miles in diameter, which gradually filled with pure, crystal water to a depth of 2,000 feet, on all sides of which the walls of the caldron still tower to a height of from over 500 to nearly 2,000 feet. It was first discovered by white men on June 12, 1853. There were 22 pros- pectors in the party, of whom the leader, Mr. John W. Hillman, then of Jack- sonville, Oreg., was the last survivor. Mr. Hillman died in Hope Villa, La., February 19, 1915, at the advanced age of 83 years. It was but little known, even among residents of southern Oregon, when the present supervisor. Will G. Steel, on August 16, 1885, started a movement for the creation of a national park, which was successful only after 17 years of strenuous labor. Then came a long struggle for development, which is just now beginning to bear fruit. Probably the first step in that direction consisted in stocking the lake with rainbow trout in 1888, when the supervisor carried a few minnows nearly 50 miles and got them into the waters of the lake in good shape. The fishing now is unsurpassed and the fish are of excellent quality. EOADS AND TRAILS. About 47 miles of excellent dirt roads have been constructed in the park under the direction of the Secretary of War, which consist of 8 miles from the Klamath, or southern entrance, to park headquarters; 7 miles from the Med- ford, or western entrance, to the same point ; 5 miles from park headquarters to the rim of the lake at Crater Lake Lodge ; 6 miles from the Pinnacles, or eastern entrance, to the rim of the lake at Kerr Notch ; and 22 miles from Cloud Cap, on the eastern side, to a point about li miles south of Llao Rock, to the west of the lake, thus leaving 12 miles to complete the circle of the lake, which latter it is hoped will be finished during the season of 1917, thus afford- ing one of the most wildly beautiful automobile drives in the world. These roads have had ample time to settle and it is now iH'oposed to pave them, which work should be completed in about three years. In addition to the foregoing a system of trails has been outlined that will appeal irresistibly to visitors who delight in wandering over the bluffs, through the forests, and into uncanny spots where goblins dance by night and shadows linger by day. Chief among these is one to be constructed to the summit of Mount Scott, on a grade that can subsequently be widened for auto- mobile use. When this is done one can ride in comfort to a point nearly 3,000 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. 59 feet above the waters of the lake aud nearly 5,000 above the plains of eastern Oregon, over which the eye can wander, intoxicated with the glory of a view from the Columbia River region to the mountains of California. Map of Crater Lake National Park. In addition to the roads and trails of the park a road has been recently surveyed from Medford to the western entrance that will be constructed jointly by the General Government and the State of Oregon. The maximum grade of this road is 4 per cent, with 500-foot radius for curves. The cost is to be 60 SUPEWXTEXDEKT OF NATIONAL PAKKS. $1,500,000, $700,000 of which is for grading ami $800,000 for paving. The work of construction will probably be completed in about five j'ears. An investigation has recently been completed by the State of Oregon as to the feasibility of constructing a road from a point on the northern boundary of the park to Lake Waldo, a distance of approximately 50 miles, along the crest of the Cascade Mountains, and no serious obstacles were encountered. WATER SYSTEM. No provision whatever has been made to supply the public with water on the rim of the lake. This is of the first necessity and should be done as soon as possible. The Crater Lake Co. has established a water sytem for its own use and is constantly importuned for water by camping visitors, who do not under- stand conditions and take it for granted that it is a public supply, so resent any limitation. At times the supply is barely sulficient for hotel purposes, and it is necessary to refuse these requests, in consequence of which friction occurs and the Crater Lake Co. is abused without cause. The management has been extremely obliging in the premises and has suffered many times because of its desire to serve the public in this matter. TELEPHONE SYSTEM. Telephone service within the park is good. Excellent service has been main- tained to Prospect, 30 miles distant, but beyond that point the service is un- satisfactory. It is extremely difficult to communicate with Medford from Prospect, in consequence of which practically all the outside business has been sent by way of Port Klamath and Klamath Falls, over which line we have had good service. For fire protection more lookout stations should be provided, for which purpose a few additional miles of line shoiild be constructed. TEANSPOKTATIOJS'. A line of automobile stages is maintained by the Crater Lake Co. from Med- ford, on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railway, and from Kirk, on the Crater Lake cut-off, 40 miles north of Klamath Falls, that has rendered emi- nently satisfactory service. Tickets between Portland and California points may be purchased at any Southern Pacific station and be made good via Crater Lake by a small additional payment. Private automobiles and vehicles will find good roads from eastern Oregon by way of the Pinnacles entrance, which was recently opened to the public. FISH AND GAME. There are no fish in any of the waters of the park except the lake itself and Annie Creek, below the falls. Crater Lake is abundantly supplied with a fine quality of rainbow trout, and one year ago 15,000 black spotted fry were placed in the lake that will soon be available. No fishing is permitted except with hook and line, and a limit of five in one day is maintained. The fish are large, and the flesh is firm. A few have been taken 28 inches long, weighing 6 or 7 pounds. The park abounds in black and brown bear, black-tailed deer, cougar, lynx, timber wolves, coyotes, pine marten, fisher, and several varieties of squirrels. Ring-tail grouse, the common pheasant, Clark crow, and numerous varieties of birds are common to the country at large. FOKEST FIRES. There were a few forest fires in the park during the season, but they were all controlled, so that the damage was merely nominal. On one occasion there was a severe thunderstorm, immediately following which 14 forest fires were re- ported, 4 of them in the park, all started by lightning. DRIVING LOOSE STOCK THROUGH THE PARK. Six i^ermits were issued during the season for driving loose stock through the park. SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 61 VIglTOKS AND AUTOMOBrLES. The season of 1916 was remarkable for the fact that the opening was delayed more than a month by very heavy and late snows, and at the close of July the travel was only 50 per cent of the previous year. However, at the close of the season the record was broken, as shown by the following statement of the nr.mber of visitors and automobiles: Visitors in 1916 12,265 Visitors in 1915 11,371 Gain in 1916. 894 Automobiles in 1916 2, 649 Automobiles in 1915 ; 2,244 Gain in 1916- 405 This is deserving of special mention for the reason that in 1915 there were two world's fairs on the Pacific coast that greatly stimulated travel, causing the number of visitors that year to jump from 7,096 in 1914 to 11,371 in 1915, and automobiles from 1,062 in 1914 to 2,244 in 1915, a gain in one year of 4,275 visitors and 1,182 automobiles. Under ordinary conditions it was not supposed that 1916 would equal 1915, but, under the most adverse conditions, it has been surpassed. The number of automobiles includes, in addition to those entering on regularly purchased tickets, those entering on complimentary tickets fur-^ nished to county. State, and Federal officials in the park on official business. WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK. T. W. Beazell, Supervisor, Wind Cave, via Hot Springs, S. Dak. GENEBAL STATEMENT. The act of, Congress approved January 9, 1903 (32 Stat., 765), made reserva- tion of a tract of land in South Dakota, comprising 10,.522 acres, to be known as the Wind Cave National Park. When this act was passed there were several tracts of patented lands within the boundary, all of which have since been ac- quired by the Government. The park is- almost square and is situated in a semimountainous region on the- southern slope of the Black Hills, in the southwestern corner of South Dakota, about 36 miles from the southern boundary and 24 miles from the Wyoming line. The altitude at headquarters is 4,030 feet and portions of the mountains west of the cave 4,700 feet. The park is in charge of a supervisor, the only employee on regular salary. During the summer months one or two park rangers are employed for guide and genei'al service. THE CAVE. The chief attraction is the cave, entrance to which is somewhat north of the center of the park and about 11 miles north of Hot Springs, the most accessible town of any importance. The main road through the park, comprising 6 miles, constitutes a portion of the Denver-Deadwood Highway, tlae Black Hills part of which is famed for its beautiful and varied scenery. This road is rapidly gaining the favor of the automobile traveling public, and a substantial increase of this class of traffic is^ quite noticeable this season. The Burlington and Chicago & Northwestern have regular service, with east and west connections, to Hot Springs, and a majority of the visitors to the park come from this town. Hot Springs is the post office and shipping point. The cave has been made accessible to the public by the working out of pas- sageways to admit of easy travel ; it has also been necessary to build sev- eral stairways, landings, railings, and bridges within the cave. The lower levels to which visitors are conducted are possibly 480 feet below the entrance, and the aggregate length of all routes now open to the public is approximately 3 miles. > There is a spring and miniature lake in one place, and aside from this the cave is without moisture, except from condensation of a heavily laden air and seepage from surface here and there. In this way moisture gathers on the ceilings of some caverns and drops to the floors, causing wet spots, though in very few places. The various formations within the cave are most wonderful exhibitions of diversified beauty and the inimitable work of nature. The extent and number of the various crevices, cross passages, and chambers: which make up the cave no one knows and no one can intelligently guess,. 65399—16 5 62 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. though we do know that the part open to the public is a very small fraction in extent to that part which has been explored and not surveyed ; beyond this the wildest guess is admissible. For the year ended June 30, 1916, the total number of registered visitors to the cave was 2,815. Of these, 1,701 came during the three summer months — July and August, 1915, and June, 1916. During four weeks in July and August, 1915, it was impossible to travel by automobile on a few miles of the road to the north of the park, and the effect on the number of visitors to the park is quite apparent. Only those who go in the cave register, and it is estimated that approximately three people visit or go through the park for each one making the cave trip. For instance, 805 automobiles came to or through the park in July, 1916, and the number of visitors going through the cave was 987. Nearly all cars passing through the park stop for a little time, at least. From the above comparison or apportionment, it is estimated that the total number of visitors to the park for the fiscal year 1916 is approximately 9,000. It is the custom for authorized guide (or guides) to conduct visitors through the cave, and as a trip requires about three hours, but two trips each day are made. The established time of entrance is at 9 a. m. and 2 p. m. As a great many auto tourists do not know of the established time for cave trips, they can not manage to get here in the right time, and often do not wait for the trip, and can not be accommodated unless extra guides are available. The widest publicity should be given as to time of entrance to the cave, which would result in eliminating a great deal of disappointment, and a very sub- stantial increase in the number of visitors to the interior of the cave. Beginning June 1, 1916, the fee for entrance to the cave was reduced to 25 cents per capita. All entrance fees are remitted ttf the department, the guides being on a salary basis. Many camping parties pass through the park, some with team and wagon, but vastly more by automobile ; no camping parties have stopped longer than one day in the park. Of the 1,974 visitors to the cave for the months of June, July, and the first 15 days in August, this season, 52 per cent were from South Dakota ; Nebraska, 26 per cent ; Iowa, 6 per cent ; Minnesota, 4 per cent ; Illinois, 3 per cent ; Wyoming, 2J per cent ; North Dakota, 2i per cent ; and most of the other States were represented by from 1 to 15 visitors. EOADS. The main park road, about 6 miles in extent, is in very fair condition for automobile travel, but calls for continuous attention to keep it so. The general direction of the road is north and south, though it deviates therefrom on account of buffalo fence and lay of land. The road is of soil interspersed with gravel and rock, and requires consid- erable work to maintain in good condition. Much work was done during the past year on tlie park road. The entire way was shaped, smoothed, and cleared of loose rock, grades reduced in many places, curves reduced or eliminated where practicable and repeatedly dragged. It is planned to some time have a permanent good road through the park, and with that end in view, each parcel of road built or repaired is, as far as possible, a direct contribution thereto. Until recently no provision for drainage of road has been made, but the work of installing culverts where necessary, and otherwise caring for drainage, is well started and will be pushed to com- pletion as funds are available. Diverging from the main park road at a point one-half mile south of head- quarters, there is what is called the Martin Valley and Buffalo Gap Road. This road is being used more now than heretofore, and promises to be quite extensively used in the future. The park part of this road is in fair condition, and with but little work by those interested a very good road from the park to Buffalo Gap would result. One log and plank bridge was installed near the north line of the park, crossing the Wind Cave Creek, and 3 culverts (of rock) have been built. Some rock has been hauled to sites for other culverts, 8 or 10 more of which should be built. Air Hole 10 diam. 65399—16. (1 small fraction in ; beyond this the egistered visitors iummer months — jlis in July and few wiles of tlie of visitors to the lat approximately ins the cave trip. n.Tuly, 1916, and ly all cars passing above comparison sitors to the park ■t visitors through ,'0 trips each clay md 2 p. m. As a me for cave trips, jften do not wait ides are available, to the cave, which , and a very sub- the cave, e was reduced to e department, the team and wagon, ;opped longer than .Tuly, and the first Dakota ; Nebraslia, linois, 3 per cent; of the other States fair condition foi it so. The general iates therefrom on nd requires consid- as done during the loothed, and clearea need or ellminatea 1 through the part, nnh-pd is. as far as Pearly Gates V- Turtle EassV SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 63 WATER SUPPLY. The source of water supply is a spring about a half mile west of and 150 feet higher than the park residence. An old pipe line serves to conduct the water from the spring to the recently installed supply or storage tank. This storage tank or reservoir has a capacity of 4.50 barrels, is built in the ground, of rock and cement, and is situated at an elevation of 70 feet above the park buildings. The water is conducted from reservoir by gravity through galvanized pipe to the various outlets in the yard and street, and a sanitary drinking fountain at the public building. The water system is in good condition and has given no trouble since installing, except that in warm weather the temperature of the water at the fountain gets a little too warm to be in the highest class as drink- ing water. This is due to the conductor pipe from spring to reservoir being not sufficiently deep, the water passing through being affected by surface tempera- ture. This should be remedied and the system extended to the barn. The old wooden supply tank, now unused, should be repaired to afford additional storage capacity. The capacity of the spring has remarkably increased since being allowed to run continuously, tests made at various times during the past 15 months indicating a minimum flow of 50 barrels in 24 hours and an average of 76 barrels a day. The water is excellently pure. There is a running stream which skirts the northern boundary, meandering on and off the park. This stream is suitable for trout propagation and steps nave been taken to have it stocked. BIEDS. More than 60 varieties of birds are found here at some time of the year, and all, more particularly those classed as game birds, are noticeably tamer than they are outside of the park. Many kinds of birds stay the year round, but most of them are migratory. The bobwhite, yellow-legged prairie chicken, and pin-tailed grouse are present within the park, and are increasing. The prairie chicken and grouse are of a migratory trend, and at times leave the park ; many of these do not return. Though it seems impossible to identify individual birds, it is thought that some prairie chickens stay here all the time. There are not so many broods of grouse and prairie chickens this season as last, but the broods are larger. None have been observed with less than 12 birds. PEEDATOBY ANIMALS, Coyotes and bobcats (lynx) are common and an occasional gray wolf is seen. The combined efforts of forest service, game preserve, park management, and settlers have tended to materially reduce the number of predatory animals in this vicinity the past year. SMALLEB ANIMALS. Weasel, mink, skunk, and porcupine are found here; the first two are rare, the latter numerous. The weasel, mink, and coyote are a menace to bird life, though the magpie, a most beautiful bird itself, is the most destructive of all to bird life and should be exterminated. NATIONAL GAME PRESERVE. A national game preserve has been established in the Wind Cave National Park under the provisions of *' an act making appropriations for the Depart- ment of Agriculture for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1913," approved August 10, 1912 (37 Stat, 293), as follows: " For the establishment of a national game preserve, to be known as the Wind Cave National Game Preserve, upon the land embraced within the boundaries of the Wind Cave National Park, in the State of South Dakota, for a permanent national range for a herd of buffalo to be presented to the United States by the 64 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. American Bison Society, and for sucti other native American game animals as may be placed therein, the Secretary of Agriculture is authorized to acquire, by purchase or condemnation, such adjacent lands as may be necessary for the purpose of assuring an adequate, permanent water supply, to inclose the game preserve with a good and substantial fence, and to erect thereon all necessary sheds and buildings for the proper care and maintenance of the said animals, $26,000 to be available until expended." The establishment on this preserve of herds of bison, elk, and antelope has resulted in an added interest, by the public in the park. It is particularly adapted to this purpose and the animals are doing well. The inclosure is about the western portion of the park and creates a pasture of nearly 4,000 acres. WILD ANIMALS. As a natural game preserve there is but one animal, the whitetail deer, that has come under the protection of the park. These are present in small numbers throughout the year, with more in the autumn season on account of the hunting to the northward, which drives them to the park for refuge. PERMITS FOB TRANSPORTATION BY AUTOMOBILE. For the year, January 1, 1916, to December 31, 1916, nine permits for trans- portation of passengers by automobile were issued. RECOMMENDATIONS. Finishing of supervisor's residence upstairs, and installing bath. Cement crossing in street, and curb at public building. Shed and yard built at barn, for convenience of visitors who come horseback or with team, and for use as catch pen when inspecting stock brands. Building to easy grade and surfacing with gravel 1 mile of road. New building over entrance to the cave, of rock, with cement floor. The erection of a shelter for cars while parties are in the cave. PLATT NATIONAL PARK. R. A. Sneed, Supervisor, Sulphur, Okla. GENERAL STATEMENT. By the acts of Congress of July 1, 1902 (32 Stat., 641), and April 21, 1904 (33 Stat, 220), 629.33 and 218.98 acres, respectively, at the town of Sulphur, Okla. (then Indian Territory), were segregated as the Sulphur Springs Reser- vation, which designation, by joint resolution approved June 29, 1906, was changed to Piatt National Park. The park, with a total area of 848.22 acres, extends in irregular form a distance of approximately 3 miles from northeast to southwest along Traver- tine Creek, including a portion of Rock Creek, into which the Travertine empties, and it has a circuit of 9 miles. There are within the part a number of known mineral and three nonmineral springs. The principal groups of these springs are the Bromide and Medicine Springs, in the extreme western portion of the park; the Beach, Pavilion, and Hillside Springs, in the north-central portion of the park; and the Bromide. Black-Sulphur, and Wilson Springs, in the south-central part of the park. Sulphur springs predominate. The Antelope and Buffalo Springs, nonmineral in character, are situated at the extreme northeastern end of the park, with an elevation of 1,080 feet above sea level at the Antelope Spring and 1,078 feet at the Buffalo. They have an approximate discharge of 5/)00,000 gallons daily into Travertine Creek, and are the source of this beautiful creek. A number of other springs in the bed of the creek add to the volume of water which glides down this stream and forms its pretty waterfalls. The Medicine Spring was discovered within the last few years, and while it has been confined, it is still subject to overflows by Rock Creek, and the matter of its proper improvement will very likely be taken up during the present fiscal year. j Robbers x^-, --o'lO^ I Roost cn'FP 1 4^ —cj ; ! ^ 96 "59' TRAVEL GUIDE MAP OF THE PLATT NATIONAL PARK MURRAY COUNTY, OKLAHOMA SCALE After Topographic Map of Flatt National Park by U.S. Geological Survey L.L. POATES CO., N.Y. 65399—16. To face page (64.) SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. 65 The summer months constitute the season for visitors to this park, although the climate is such as to make it an admirable resort the year around. There fire very few dnys during the sunnner when a cool breeze is not stirring, and the winter months are as a rule very mild, while the spring and fall seasons are the most delightful and beautiful of the entire year. During the present summer of 1916 there have been more visitors here than for a numlier of years past, and I estimate that during the fiscal year ended June 30, 1916, there were at least 30,000 visitors to the park. There were registered in the park office during the fiscal year 547 persons who came into the park and camped for three days or more. As shown by the records of the watchman at the Bromide Spring, the visitors there during the year .lust ended numbered 100,337. This total is made up from day to day of visitors and resident citizens who make frequent trips to the springs, and does not represent as many individuals. There were 154 orders issued during the year from this office, on physician's prescriptions, for the shipment of the Bromide Spring and Medicine Spring waters in 5-gallon quantities to persons outside of the city. These shipments were made to points in Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Illinois, Missouri, Minnesota, and Nebraska. A total of 7,829 gallons of Bi'omide Spring water was shipped and 2,205 gallons of Medicine Spring water. During the year a total of 58,090 gallons of these waters (including the water shipped) were taken from the springs. Out of this. total 42,762 gallons were from Bromide Spring and 15,328 gallons from Medicine. Spring. This record shows an increased demand for these waters over the records of last year, and only five days of the record for January, 1916, is included in these figures for the reason that the Jlood of January 21, 1916, washed the keeper's records down the stream, and both of these springs were out of commission from that date until the morning of January 26. During a part of the season for visitors no orders were issued for the shipment of these waters for the reason that the supply was not equal to the demand made upon it by visitors here. Between 12 o'clock (midnight) and 1 o'clock a. m. of January 21, 1916, the greatest overflow of Travertine and Rock Creeks ever known to the oldest citi- zen of this community completely devastated that part of the park which lies along the banks of these streams. This necessarily greatly damaged the Trav- ertine Road, which follows the meanders of the Travertine Creek, and the new Bromide Road, which runs along the banks of Rock Creek. It also completely destroyed the Bromide Bridge and damaged the Washington and Lincoln Bridges. The high waters also destroyed 6,500 feet of fencing which had just been completed and damaged about 2,000 feet of other fencing. At the Bromide Spring, where the water rose about 9 feet higher than ever recorded, the Bro- mide pavilion ^Yas practically destroyed, and the residence of the keeper was torn from its foundation and washed down the stream, lodging between two large oaks, which wrenched and tore the house until it was utterly unfit to attempt further repairs. Other minor damage occurred, and debris from the town was brought dflwn the streams and lodged in the tree tops and along the creek banks in quantities. This consisted of old quilts, wearing apparel, broken trunks, matting, parts of houses, old trees ; and tons of hay hung from the tree tops like moss. The damages done by this flood have been the cause of a great deal of incon- venience in the administration of this park during the present season, especially because of the fact that there are a greater number of visitors here this year than at any previous season for the past eight years, and the absence of the Bromide Bridge and the lack of conveniences at the spring during the con- struction of the new pavilion have been great handicaps at this location. Appropriation for repairs to storm damages. — The deficiency act of March 31, 1916, carried an appropriation of $10,000 for repairs to bridges, roads, buildings, etc., in this park necessitated by damages resulting from storm of January 21, 1916. EOADS. Allotments were made from the regular annual appropriation of $1,099.97 for repairs and maintenance of park roads, and with these allotments all the roads in the park were kept in good repair, and a new road leading south to Wilson 66 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. Spring from its intersection with Buckhorn Road was graded to a 5-inch crown and graveled witli the park native gravel. This road is 1,750 feet in length and extends to the southwest boundary of the park. One large culvert near the Wilson Spring was constructed. The Bromide Lane has been graded and constant attention given to the proper maintenance of the Buckhorn and Travertine Roads and to the new road leading to the Bromide along the bank of Rock Creek. Repairs were also made to the " Y " road which leads up from Travertine Creek into the town of Sulphur, and the Sulphur-Bromide Lane has been repaired and graveled and all of the creek fords repaired. After the flood of January 21, 1916, it was necessary to completely rebuild a part of the new road to Bromide Spring along Rock Creek and to make exten- sive repairs to the remainder of this road. The same was true of the Traver- tine Road, although the damages to this road were not so great. In all, 1,400 linear feet of road were rebuilt in the park and 6,800 feet repaired. The road repaired consisted of parts of the new Bromide and the Travertine Roads, the Buckhorn and Wilson Roads, and the Bromide and Sulphur-Bromide Lanes. The flood completely washed out a short trail leading from Lincoln Bridge to the entrance to the park at the foot of Fourth Street west, and this trail was completely rebuilt and regraveled. It also washed out a great part of the Cliff- side Trail, which had to be regraveled for a distance of 900 feet and new bridges put in across ravines. These small footbridges were made of lumber. The northeast wing wall of the Washington Bridge was replaced. It was built of rock and cement, 32 feet long by 8 feet high and 30 inches thick. The northeast and northwest wings of the Lincoln Bridge were replaced and rip- rapped, and the graveled floor to the bridge, which had been washed out at the north end, was filled in with new gravel. These damages were the result of the flood, and repairs were made from the deficiency appropriation. Under date of June 26. 1916, formal contract was entered into between the department and the Illinois Steel Bridge Co., of Jacksonville, 111., for the con- struction of a steel-truss bridge, including concrete piers and abutments, super- structure, flooring, electric-lighting fixtures, and all appurtenances, for the total sum of $4,353. This bridge is to replace the wire suspension bridge at the Bromide Springs, which was destroyed by the flood, and its dimensions, as indi- cated by the plans, are to be 120 feet in length by 10 feet in width, outside measurements. Thirty-six new benches were built to replace benches which had been washed down the stream in the flood of January 21, 1916, and these were placed at various points. A few of the benches which were washed away were returned to the park by farmers who reside down the stream below the park. During the present summer one of the most popular amusements which the visitors have indulged in has been swimming in Travertine Creek in several deep pools below various falls. RECOMMENDATIONS. The following recommendations for maintenance and improvement of this park are submitted for the fiscal year which will end June 30, 1918 : There are now about 7 miles of roads in the park, and these require con- stant repairs to keep them in good shape. The trails are in the same class, and it is frequently necessary to mend them and to repair small bridges and culverts along these and the roads. The Beach Springs (three in number), located just north of the Coney Island Ford, are submerged with every flood stage of Rock Creek. The waters of these springs are preferred by many visitors to the park, and they should be improved and a pavilion erected over them. The proposed improvements at these springs consist of a large inverted funnel-shaped inclosure, confining the three springs so as to make a combined flow of the three springs from one out- let, the funnel to be constructed of galvanized iron, over which a cement cover- ing should be laid, the approximate measurement of the inclosure to be 600 feet. Surrounding this inclosure to the springs proper should be built a SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 67 square inclosure to prevent overflow of these springs by the creek. This second inclosure should be about 6 feet high at the creek edge and should bed back into the hill, the depth of the side walls gradually decreasing as the hill rises, but the top of the wall remaining level with the wall along the creek edge, the approximate measurement of this entire wall being 540 square feet. On the bottom of the outer inclosure should be laid a cement floor, rising with the hill in a succession of 4-foot steps with 6-inch risers, the approximate surface feet of this floor measuring about 720 feet. On the top of the outer inclosure to this group of springs, supported by conglomerate columns, should be erected a pavilion, size 24 feet by 30 feet by 9 feet, with pagoda roof with a small dog house on the top, supporting a flag- pole. The probable cost of labor on this entire improvement, including the pavilion, would be about $410, with a total cost of $1,000. The most popular swimming pool, " Sylvan Cove," at a location near the Panther Falls, is a naturally deep hole, but there are large, sharp rocks in the bottom Avhich should be i-emoved in order to make it an ideal place for swimming, and if a cement dam could be built just below this pool and a slight excavation made at the lower end where the water is shallow, it would increase the size of the pool to about 20 by 300 feet by 2 to 6 feet deep. The upper end of this pool is a natural ledge of travertine rock whicli forms a beautiful waterfall, and just above this fall is a more shallow pool which could be used by inexperienced swimmecs and children. This location is the most accessible on the creek to visitors who are lodging in the city of Sulphur, or who are camped in the park camping grounds, by reason of its nearness ; and during the present summer there have been but few hours during' each day when this pool has not been filled with people to its capacity. Further up the creek at Bear Falls and just above Cold Springs are other pools which have been used extensively, but at both of these places there are cold-water springs coming up in the bed of the creek, which makes the water too cold except for experienced swimmers. It is estimated that the cost of the entire work of building the dam below " Sylvan Cove " at the downstream end of the pool, removing the sharp rocks, and making the necessary excavations in the pool will not exceed .$2-50 — the dam to be 6 feet deep, 4 feet thick, by 20 feet in length. The probable cost of the labor in building the dam and doing the other work necessary would be about $120, while the cement and other material would likely cost as luuch as $130. Around the East and West Central Parks, and around the park at Bromide Springs, there should be constructed a 2-raiI iron fence of l^-inch pipe with 2- inch posts set in cement, with ornamental conglomerate rock gate posts at the entrances — the whole cost not to exceed $1,500. This character of fencing around these parks is desirable for the reason that these parks are near the city of Sulphur and are much frequented by visitors to the park, and the old method of fencing with wire fencing, especially for these portions of this pai-k, is not in keeping with what might be expected of a national park. Without fences of some kind around these parks, it is impossible to keep campers from stopping over night in them, or for a noon meal, and leaving them littered up. SULLYS HILL PARK. Charles M. Ziebach, Acting Supervisor, Fort Totten, N. Dak. GENERAL STATEMENT. This reservation, set aside by Executive proclamation dated June 2, 1904, under the act approved April 27' 1904 (33 Stat., 319), contains about 780 acres. It is located on the south shore of Devils Lake, N. Dak., having about 2 miles of shore line, with its western boundary 1 mile east of the Fort Totten Indian School. Inasmuch as no appropriation has been made for the care and protection of this reservation, Mr. Cliarles M. Ziebach, in charge of the Indian industrial school (Fort Totten), has been continued as acting super- visor, and required to exercise the necessary supervision and control over the park until appropriacion is made therefor by Congress. There are two ways in which the public may reach the park — by wagon road around the south shore of Devils Lake and into the eastern or M'estern side of the park, or by launch across Devils Lake, to the north side of the park. 68 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK. Thomas Rickner, Supervisor, Mancos, Colo. gp:neral statement. The park was established by the act of June 29, 1906 (34 Stat., 616). It is situated in the extreme southwestern portion of Colorado, in Montezuma County, and embraces an area of 66.2 square miles, or 42,376 acres, but by the act of Congress approved June 30, 1913, the Ijoundaries of the park were so changed as to include an aggregate area of 76.51 square miles, or 48,966.4 acres. The park is under the direct control of the Secretary of the Interior, who is empowered by law to prescribe rules and regulations for its government. CHARACTEB OF THE COUNTRY. Mesa Verde is a high table-land dividing the Mancos and Montezuma Valleys. This mesa is elevated above the valleys some 2,000 feet, and rises abruptly from their floors, with precipitous sides, like the walls of a canyon. The northern extremity of this great mesa terminates in Point Lookout, which juts out between the two valleys, a landmark for miles in all directions. The surface of this table-land is broken by innumerable canyons, which start from the very edge of the mesa on the northern and western sides, and, growing deeper and more rugged as they descend, finally open out into the Mancos Canyon. These canyons have many great caverns in their side walls, with the overhanging rock for roofs, and in these caverns are found the ruins of the clifi: dwellings. The principal ruins are found in Navajo, Cliff, Soda, Long, and Rock Canyons, though there are hundreds of lesser ruins in all the canyons in the park. Spruce Tree House is in Spruce Canyon, a branch of Navajo ; Clifl: Palace is in Cliff Canyon ; Balcony House is in Soda ; Peabody House and Inaccessible are in Navajo ; Long House is in Rock Canyon ; and a recently discovered ruin is in Long. These ruined houses, or villages, are found in the recesses of the canyon walls and, protected from the weather, are remarkably well preserved. Some of them are small, with only a few rooms, while others are large and must have accommodated a large population. The ruins found on the mesas, without the protection of the overhanging cliffs, have not withstood the ravages of time and are now but mounds of stone and earth. Park Point, near the northern boundary of the park, is the highest point, with an altitude of 8,574 feet. At a point in Long Canyon, just below the ruin known as Spring House, has recently been brought to notice a natural bridge, spanning the small gulch that runs down from under Spring House. The bridge is some 90 feet in sp'an, and about 25 feet high to the bottom of the arch. To reach this natural bridge one has to go over a rough country and do a good deal of climbing, but the . bridge is there and is proving to be of much interest to tourists. CUSTODIANSHIP. The custody of the park is delegated by the Secretary of the Interior to a supervisor, whose office is maintained at Mancos, Colo., the nearest railroad' point to the park. The supervisor is assisted by a limited number of rangers, whose duty it is to act as guides .through the ruins and to police the park. The best of order has been maintained within the park, and the ruins have been protected from vandalism ; in fact, no attempts have been made to evade the rules and regulations. STOCK. It has been the custom for the department to lease the grazing lands to owners of patented lands within the park, and at present there are three leases or permits for the grazing of 1,335 head of cattle. The lessees are required to assist in maintaining order and to guard against fires within the park. ROADS AND TRAILS. All the roads in the park have been worked and kept in shape for automobile travel. The road under Point Lookout has given rather more trouble than usual owing to heavy rains. These wash down earth and stone and often great bowlders that greatly damage the roadbed and require the use of giant ) Pulpit Rock \ ' ■■«) Ll \aorsis \ ,,, \4■^ l( \ — . 1° V ^Pictoaraph Pi. V H) '■ RAILROAD LINES LEADING TO MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK TRAVEL-GUIDE MAP OF THE MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK MONTEZUMA COUNTY, COLORADO SCALE OF MILES L Ji 1 8 After Topographic Sheet of AdminlatratlTe Map of MesaTerde National Park by U.S. Geological Survey 1916 LEGEIND |j CUfe Dwellings o Pueblo Type 108° 20' , 2( J ,' \ \ \- V n- Wm\ ! ■{•Wat..rsC \ 1 1 11 ^^■^%fi 5 ,v'' '■ '• ?i °^.^ ^- »'% '" \ vv:'i N \ ^\ i ^ •' • -AX {S_i \ 1^ ( /"j|.i,j—5 — J. — { ^i~"'~;, — 1~'"^ ^ ,'1- '\ \ V ' ^ ''•N li \ "S ( -C* { V I \J ^0 U T H E R |v|',' ;.l SUPEKINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 69 powder to remove them. The roads from Spruce Tree Camp to the various ruins have been very much improved and now take place with the good roads of the park. WATEB SUPPLY. The water supply varies very little from year to year, as most of the water in the park is derived from springs and wells. The spring at Spruce Tree House holds out at all times and has thus far furnished all the water required, though with building and the increased number of tourists the demand has been much greater than usual. From July 1, 1915, to July 1, 1916, the number of tourists registering at Spruce Tree Camp was 1,170, almost double the number of those of the year before. The opening of the road from Denver to this section has brought many automobile parties from the East, and as the road, which now is new and rough, becomes better a great many parties from eastern points will make this trip. The scenery through which the road runs is the finest in the State, and the ride through Mesa Verde Park is unequaled. During the summer of 1915 Dr. J. Walter Fewkes, of the Smithsonian Insti- tution, of Washington, uncovered a ruin on the mesa between two branches of Cliff Canyon, 3 miles from Spruce Tree Camp, and heretofore known as Fewkes Mound. He found a type of building new to this park and one show- ing advanced ideas in building. The ruin is now one of the most interesting to strangers in the park, and during the fiscal year 1917 Dr. Fewkes will uncover another mound near Mummy Lake. Dr. Fewkes's report on his last year's work, " Excavation and Repair of Sun Temple," may now be purchased from the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C, for 15 cents. GAME. Game is increasing with every "year, and there are many deer now making their home in the park for the entire year. Mountain lions, too, are on the increase, and several pairs are known to live within or near the park. These animals should be killed off, for they keep the deer from increasing as they would otherwise do. AUTOMOBILES. Automobiles are now the most employed, though the horse still makes the trip, and some parties still go in on horseback, following the more romantic trails instead of the road. MINES. George S. Todd operates the only mine in operation on Mesa Verde, but his workings have bfeen, for the entire year, on the land of the Southern Ute Indians. LANDS. There are 720 acres of patented lands within the park, and these lands should be acquired by the Government at as early a date as possible, especially the four claims that lie on the mesa, in the heart of the park — the two Prater claims, the Armstrong claim, and the Waters claim. EECOMMENDATION S. The department can not be too strongly urged to authorize the construction of a new road ascending the mesa. The present road is cut out of a smooth hill of shale with overhanging rocks, and every rain, even a shower, brings down into the road dirt and rock, making it a constant expense to keep the road in good condition, and, above all, is at all times dangerous. At times great rocks come down into the road and carry away the roadbed or ar6 left to be removed by blasting. Thus far no traveler has been caught on the hill in time of danger, but it is always possible. The proposed road would ascend the mesa on the other side of Point Lookout, traversing a country on which It 70 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. a heavy growth of scrub oak, pinyop, and juniper, with no overhanging rocks to endanger the traveler. The view is equally as fine as on the other side, and the distance is no greater. GLACIER NATIONAL PARK. S. F. Ralston, Supervisor, Belton, Mont. GENERAL STATEMENT. The Glacier National Park was established by the act of Congress approved May 11, 1910 (36 Stat. L., 354), and is located in northwestern Montana. It embraces over 1,400 square miles of the Rocky Mountains and adjacent terri- tory, extending north from tlie main line of the Great Northern Railway to the Canadian border. The eastern boundary is the Blackfeet Indian Reserva- tion, and the western boundary is formed by the Flathead River. The park, which is irregular in shape, has an area of approximately 915,000 acres. It« greatest length in a northwesterly-southeasterly direction is about 60 miles with a maximum width approaching 40 miles. Within its borclers are attractions for the scientist, nature lover, and tourist unsurpassed in any country in the world, tourists of world-wide experience pronouncing it the Switzerland of America. The elevations in the park range from 3,100 feet to over 10,400 feet. The central portion of the area on the northwestern-southeastern axis is high and rugged and in sharp comparison with the open iDlains of the east and the valley of the Flathead River on the west. Within its confines are 60 active glaciers, these ice sheets being the sources of beautiful cascades and roaring mountain streams flowing into in- numerable clear placid lakes for which the park is famed, the most noted of these being Lake McDonald, Lake St. Mary, Lake Ellen Wilson, Iceberg Lake, Red Eagle Lake, Kintla Lake, Bowman Lake, Waterton Lake, Logging Lake, Quartz Lake, Harrison Lake, and Two Medicine Lake. Lake McDonald, the southern end of which is situated 2^ miles from Belton, a station on the main line of the Great Northern Railway, is one of the most beautiful lakes in America.^ It is about 3,150 feet above sea level, nearly 10 miles long, 2 miles wide, and surrounded by mountains covered with virgin forests of western larch, cedar, white pine, Douglas fir, spruce, and hemlock. Upper Lake St. Mary is on the eastern side of the mountains about 32 miles northwest of Glacier Park station. It is about 10 miles long, with a maximum width of 1 mile, and toward the upper end the mountains rise in rugged walls not far from the water's edge. Its elevation is about 4,470 feet above sea level. The principal glaciers In the park are Blackfoot, Grinnell, Harrison, Pumpelly, Red Eagle, Sperry, Kintla, Agassiz, Chaney, Rainbow, and Carter. In most of the lakes of the park there is excellent fishing at certain times of the year, and at others many streams afCord fine sport with hook and line. Within tlie park boundaries there are many varieties of game which are indigenous to this section of the country, such as bear, elk, moose, deer, big- horn sheep, mountain goat, mountain lion, as well as the smaller furred animals, of the forest. VISITORS. From June 1, 1916, to October 1, 1916, there were 12,839 visitors registered at the two main entrances to the park. Glacier Park, and Belton. It is esti- mated conservatively that 1,000 people entered the park at points where there are no stations and failed to register, making a total of 12,839 visitors. Visitors by different entrances. Belton, western 'entrance 5, 941 Glacier Park entrance l 6, 898 There are now approximately S3 miles of road within the park boundaries available for vehicle transportation, and approximately 50 miles outside the boundaries but under park supervision, including the Blackfeet Road from Glacier Park station to the park line. 26 miles ; the St. Mary-Babb Road, from near park line at St. Marys through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation to the park line near camp 5, 16 miles ; the Cut Bank Road, which extends from the main automobile highway, or Blackfeet Road, to the park line, 4 miles ; and Tavo Medicine Road, from main automobile highway to park line, 4 miles. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 71 St. Mary-Bahh Road. — During the year this road was repaired by removing slides, installing 18 new culverts, and graveling 640 yards. The road has a minimum width of 14 feet and a maximum of 20 feet. Blackfeet Road. — This road was repaired during the season its entire dis- tance. Thirty new culverts were installed for drainage purposes. The road for a distance of 8 miles was widened to a minimum of 12 feet and a maximum of 16 feet, and for a distance of 6 miles it w^as widened to a minimum of 10 feet and a maximum of 16 feet. There has been placed upon the road 10,680 yards of gravel. Cut Bank Road. — This road was improved by cleaning out drain ditches, installing two new culverts, and riinning grader over it to smooth it up. Tivo Medicine Road. — Two new culverts were installed and the road was dragged. Three hundred and twenty yards of gravel were used for filling in soft spots in the road. TiDo Medicine Road within park boundary. — Two miles of this road has been rebuilt, cleared through timber to an average width of 35 feet, and graded to an average width of 16 feet. Four miles of the old road was repaired by drag- ging and filling in soft spots with gravel. Many Glacier Higlncay. — This road was repaired by removing slides, instal- ling 17 new culverts, and spreading 10,668 yards of gravel on the road. Divide Creek Road. — Eleven new culverts were installed, 287 yards of gravel were placed upon the road, drain ditches opened up, slides removed, and 2^ miles of the road recrowned. Belton-Lake McDonald Road. — Distance, 3 miles. The road was repaired by removing fallen timber and slides, filling in ruts, and dragging the road to keep it in repair. Fish Creek Road. — Distance, 1.9 miles. This road was cleared of fallen tim- ber, rock and earth slides were removed, and the road was repaired. Flathead River Road. — Distance, 48 miles. Fallen timber was removed from this road from Lake McDonald to the Canadian line. Eight new culverts were installed, and rocks and stumps removed from the road for a distance of 5 miles. Fish Creek-McOee Meadow Road. — Length, 25,080 feet. The right of way of the road was cleared through the timber to an average width of 35 feet, "and graded to an average of 14 feet. Lake McDonald Road. — Timber was cut and refuse burned over the right of way for a distance of 8,700 feet, and the stumps removed and burned for a dis- tance of 2,700 feet ; after which work was suspended. TRAILS. All old trails were cleaned of fallen timber and kept in repair during the summer months. The following new trails were built : Grinnell Glacier Trail. — Two miles 1,870 feet completed. Cleared to an average width of 10 feet ; graded to an average of 4 feet. New Trail from Lake McDonald to Granite Park. — Approximately 7 miles of this trail has been completed, cleared to an average width of 10 feet, and graded to an average width of 31 feet. Bridges across streams and corduroy over wet ground were made 6 feet in width. Neio Sperry Glacier Trail. — One and one-half miles completed. Graded to an average width of 4 feet. One thousand two hundred feet of trail is through rockwork, balance is sidehill graded over slide rock and shale. Triple Divide Trail. — Between Triple Divide and Red Eagle Lake. Seven and one-half miles cleared of timber to an average width of 10 feet, graded to an average width of 3i- feet. Appekunny Basin Trail. — This trail was cleared to an average width of 10 feet, and graded an average width of 3* feet. Snyder Lake Trail. — This was built from Crystal Ford to Snyder Lake, a distance of Si miles. Right of way was cleared to an average width of 10 feet, and graded to an average width of 3* feet. Baring Basin Trail. — Four miles cleared of timber to an average width of 10 feet, graded to an average width of 3J feet. Little St. Marys Trail. — From Glacier Hotel to Little St. Marys Lake, a dis- tance of 7 miles. Trail was cleared to an average width of 8 feet, graded to an average width of 3 feet. BRIDGES. Two Medicine. — A new bridge was built over Two Medicine River to replace old one which was washed out by high water. It is 95 feet long with a roadway 16 feet wide. 72 SUPEEIISrTENDElSrT OF NATIONAL PARKS. Divide Creek Bridge. — A new bridge was built over Divide Creek to replace the old one washed out by high water. It is 75 feet long with a roadway 16 feet wide. Quarts Creek Bridge. — The old bridge across Quartz Creek was carried .away by high water in June and was replaced by a new bridge 78 feet long and 12 feet wide. Bridges on Fish Creek-McGee Meadoio Road. — There were seven bridges built on the Fish Creek-McGee Meadow Road, all 16 feet wide and of the following lengths : Bridge No. 1, 183 feet ; No. 2, 165 feet ; No. 3, 12,feet ; No. 4, 28 feet ; No. 5, 50 feet ; No. 6, 68 feet ; No. 7, 20 feet. FISH. One hundred and forty-two cans of fish were distributed in the lakes and streams of Glacier National Park during the past season. A large supply will be received during the month of October. Owing to the extreme cold weather and the unusually heavy snowfall during the past winter, there was some loss among the deer in the valley of the Flathead. In other sections of the park deer and all other game wintered in fairly good condition. Deer. — There are both blacktail and whitetail deer in Glacier Park. The latest conservative estimates place their numbers at 11,000. Elk. — Elk are found over almost all sections of the park, but the largest herds range around Park, Ole, Coal, and Nyack Creeks. A conservative esti- mate places their number at 900. Moose. — It is estimated that there are 100 moose in the park, most of which are found in the valley of the Flathead River. Sheep and goats. — Bighorn sheep and Rocky Mountain goats are found prin- cipally in the higher altitudes along the main range and along the eastern slope of the Rockies. The country over which they roam is extremely rough, making it very difficult to estimate their numbers, but from the latest and most reliable information available the estimate of the sheep in the park is placed at 1,500 and of the goats 1,200. Bear. — There are three varieties abounding in considerable numbers through- out the park — the grizzly, the brown or cinnamon, and the common black bear! In many instances they become troublesome by going into construction camps and taking camp supplies. Predatory animals. — There are a few wolves in the park, mostly found east of the main range of the Rockies. Coyotes abound in large numbers through- out the park. They are the principal menace to animal life in the park. During the heavy snows of the past winter they killed a great many deer. Their num- bers have been depleted to some extent by the regular park ranger force and many have been killed by settlers in the park. The method of extermination has been principally by the use of strychnine, although some are caught in traps. There are a few mountain lions in the park, but their number is so small that the damage done by them to the game is very slight. Fur-hearing animals. — Large numbers of mink, lynx, weasel, and martin are found throughout the wooded sections of the park. They are very destructive to bird life. Large numbers of beaver are to be found in almost every stream in the park. Wild fowls and Urds. — Grouse of the blue, ruffed, and pin-tailed varieties are found in the park. There are a few ptarmigan along the main range. Many ducks and geese nest around the lakes and along the streams. Many varieties of small birds are found. Game protection. — Park rangers have afforded as much protection to the game as was possible over such a large area. There was one arrest during the year for game poaching. The person was taken before the United States com- missioner, where he pleaded guilty, paid his fine, and was discharged. EECOMMENDATIONS. In this report I wish especially to call your attention to the importance of good roads, and in order that they may be dependable, it is necessary that they be surfaced either with native gravel or crushed rock. The unusually wet weather which has prevailed here the past two seasons has made this apparent. The graveling which was done on the Many Glacier Highway during the fall of 1915 and spring of 1916 put this road in first-class condition, and it was n L.L.P0ATE8 SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS, 73 absolutely dependable dui-ing tlie entire season. Portions of the St. Mary-Babb and Divide Creek roads were graveled, which has greatly improved them. There are still long stretches on these two roads which shoiild be surfaced with gravel in order to make them dependable in all kinds of weather. The road from Glacier Park station to the park line, known as the Blackfeet Road, was taken over by the department in June, since which time it has been under the supervision of the park and has been greatly improved by graveling 4 miles of the worst sections of the road, widening and draining it, but much yet remains to be accomplished. A liberal appropriation should be allowed for its mainte- nance and improvement. In recommending the building of the road from the foot to head of Lake McDonald, I again wish to call your attention to the fact that this road, when built, will be the first link in a road connecting the east and west sides of the park. It matters not which of the various passes the road goes over in ci'ossing the mountains from east to west, the only practicable route in approaching any of the available passes from the west is by way of Lake McDonald. The telephone system of the park deserves careful consideration. The system which is conducted by the hotel company does not in any way connect with the system owned by the Government on the west side of the park. It is very impor- tant that a first-class telephone system be maintained throughout the park. ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK. C. R. Trowbridge, Acting Supervisor, Estes Park, Colo. ; succeeded by L. C. Way, Chief Ranger in charge, September 19, 1916. GENERAL STATEMENT. The Rocky Mountain National Park was created by the act of January 25, 1915 (Public, 238, Sixty-third Congress). The park is located in northern Colorado and embraces an area 25 miles in length in a northerly and southerly direction, with a maximum width of 17 miles, covering in all 358^ square miles. It is accessible for automobiles at four different points, and numerous trails lead to the various places of interest within its boundaries, the most central points of entrance being on the eastern slope from the village of Estes Park, and on the western from the village of Grand Lake. The village of Estes Park, distant approximately 7^ miles from the main entrance to the national park, is 22 miles from Lyons, Colo., 33 miles from Loveland, and 42 miles from Fort Collins, the three nearest railroad points, and is connected by automobile stage lines making scheduled trips. There are also automobile stage lines running direct from Denver, Boulder, and Greeley to Estes Park. This region, under the present schedule of railroads and auto- . mobiles, is only four hours distant from Denver. From the village of Estes Park many picturesque roads and trails extend toward the park boundaries, most of them entering the national park. During the winter of 1915-16 the administrative office was located in the Federal Building in Denver, but is now located in the village of Estes Park. If the bill for the proposed extension of the national park becomes a law and the park boundaries are extended to closer proximity to the village of Estes Park, an office and residence for the supervisor should be constructed by the depart- ment within the boundaries of the park. KOADS. Fall River Road. — The Pall River Road, which is now under construction by the State of Colorado, extends into the park a distance of approximately 7 miles, and work is now in progress under a contract made by the State highway commissicn for the further construction of 2 miles, which the contractor expects to complete in the fall of 1916. According to a survey of this road completed in July, 1916, by surveyors of the Geological Survey, there still remains to be constructed 16.13 miles to a point where the proposed road will join the county road from Grand Lake, in section 13, township 5 north, range 75 west, distant approximately 10 miles from Grand Lake. That part of the road now completed is in fairly good condition for a moun- tain road when the small amount expended for maintenance is taken into consideration. The 3 miles of road constructed in 1915 should be dragged and surfaced in many places. During the spring thaws there were a number of " washouts " which destroyed stone embankments and the roadbed at different 74 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. points. Under verbal instructions of May 20, 1916, from tlie Superintendent of National Parks that this was considered a State road until completed and that no park funds were to be expended for maintenance, authority was obtained from the State highway commissioner to employ laborers at the expense of the State to place this road in proper condition for the traffic of 1916. In order to properly maintain this road for travel, two men and a team should be employed during the months of June, July, and August, and I doubt that the State authorities will take this necessary action. That part of the road constructed in 1914, and known as the " Convict Road," is entirely too narrow, and in order to prevent accidents should be widened in a great many places. During May and June, 1916, 26 corrugated iron culverts were placed on this section of the road, and gutters opened to connect with them, expense paid from the park appropriation. Grand Lake Comity Road. — The roadway running north from Grand Lake and which will eventually connect with the present Fall River Road, has not been extended this year, no work having been done by Grand County on this road since 1915. Road to Sprague's. — The road to Sprague's resort on Glacier Creek, entering the park from the Young Men's Christian Association conference grounds, is now in good condition, considerable work having been done in June, 1916, from the park appropriation. Bear Lake Road: — What is now known as the Bear Lake Road, commencing at a point on the Sprague Road in section 1, township 4 north, range 73 west, was reconstructed in July and August for a distance of 1.3 miles to a point in section 12, township 4 north, range 73 west, at the junction of the Bierstadt Lake Trail. This road crosses Glacier Creek, over which a bridge was con- structed, and there has been considerable automobile traffic since it was com- pleted in August. At a comparatively small outlay of money this road can be extended to within one-half mile of Bear Lake, and eventually to Loch Vale. This will provide rapid and easy transportation by a new and scenic route for a great number of tourists who would not undergo the hardship of a horseback trip. Copeland Lake Road. — This road enters the park in section 22, township 3 north, range 73 west, a short distance west of Copeland Lake, following for a distance of approximately IJ miles the North St. Vrain Creek. A small amount of work was done on this road this season, making it passable for automobiles. This road should be extended whenever funds are available, and thereby open up a part of the wildest section in the park, commonly known as " Wild Basin." Sand Beach Lake Road. — This road enters the park approximately a half mile north of the Copeland Lake Road, and runs parallel to it for a distance of approximately 3^ miles to Sand Beach Lake. The greater part of this road is nothing more or less, at this time, than a trail, no work having been done on it for several years. The property owners in the locality of Aliens Park desire that this road be opened up, and are anxious to contribute their share on that part which lies outside the park boundary. Mill Creek Road. — This road runs parallel to Mill Creek, and extends approxi- mately a half mile into the park to the Mill Creek ranger station. The road is in poor condition, and unless it is made passable for automobiles outside the park, I do not believe it advisable to make any expenditures on that part which is within the boundaries. In entering the park over this road it is necessary to pass over several tracts of private property. Most of the traffic at this point consists of hauling firewood by the inhabitants of Estes Park. Beaver Creek Road. — This road commences at the highest point of the " High Drive " in Horseshoe Park, and enters the national park in section 19, township 5 north, range 74 west, and extends for a distance of approximately li miles, some parts of which pass over private land. It is in fair condition, but unsuit- able for automobiles at the present time. The most interesting and scenic parts of this park can be reached by trail only, the majority of which are in good condition. New trails have been con- structed since the park was created. Commencing June 1, most of the existing trails were cleaned of fallen timber and kept in repair during the summer. Considerable work was done on Flat Top Trail, extending from Grand Lake to Mill Creek ranger station, a distance of approximately 18 miles. Small bridges and culverts were constructed where necessary and on the summit of . FOATES CO, 65399—16. (To face page 74.) SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 75 Flat Top Mountain, extending about 4 miles, a line of cairns was constructed, numbering 163. These cairns average 5 feet in height, the tips of which are painted white and black in order that they may be distinguished under all con- ditions. CATTLE GBAZING. Under instructions of the department no permits are issued for cattle grazing in the park, but straggling cattle have crossed the boundary on both the eastern and western slopes and caused considerable damage to roads and trails. Only one permit was issued during the year for the transporting of cattle over park lauds. VISITORS. There were more visitors in this region than ever before in one season, and during the months of July and August the hotels were filled and for several weeks tourists were turned away owing to the lack of accommodations. The different hostelries are now arranging to enlarge, in order to handle the antici- pated increased patronage nest season. The threatened railroad strike in the early part of September prevented a great many from visiting the park and had a tendency to shorten the stay of those that were there ; otherwise the tourist business for September would have been as heavy as that of the previous two months. It is impossible to report the total number of persons entering the park, but a conservative estimate would place the number of visitors in Estes Park and vicinity on the eastern slope and Grand Lake on the western slope at 70,000. Over two-thirds of this number entered the national park, or, in round numbers, 51,000. TIMBER CUTTING. No permits are issued for the cutting of timber, except " dead and down " timber in different localities, which have been burned over in past years, and on the right of way of the Fall River Road. Timber for firewood is given free to residents of Estes Park and vicinity for their own use with the understanding that they volunteer their services when necessary to suppress forest fires. These permits are issued for timber located in the " Pole Patch," near Mill Creek ranger station. Residents near Grand Lake are allowed firewood under the same conditions, to be obtained in sec- tion 18, township 3 north, range 75 west. FOREST FIRES. On October 31, 1915, a large fire occurred in section 14, township 5 north, range 74 west, covering an area of approximately 325 acres, a part of which was on private land. The fire originated in a pile of sawdust on the site of a dismantled sawmill. With the assistance of volunteers from the village of Estes Park and vicinity, the fire was suppressed after burning two days. Dur- ing the summer of 1916, owing to the scarcity of rainfall, the park area was exceedingly dry and the danger from fire was extreme, but fortunately none occurred within the park. A number of fires occurred just outside the bound- aries, but proper action was taken to prevent their spreading. During the past year 11 fire-tool boxes; fully equipped, have been installed in different parts of the park. There are at present 18 fire-tool stations — 13 on the eastern slope and 5 on the western slope. EMPLOYEES. There are at present employed one chief ranger and four other rangers. Also one temporary clerk-stenographer, whose term of service expires October 15, 1916. GAME. There is no evidence of the slaughter of game during the past year in the park, a strict vigilance having been kept during the winter months for hunters and trappers. Mountain sheep are plentiful and no doubt increasing, and have been seen more frequently by tourists than in former years. It is now possible to approach them quite closely, and one instance is known where an automobile came within 30 feet of a group which did not disturb them. One ranger re- ports seeing 182 in one group near Specimen Mountain. Firearms are not allowed in the park and a notice to this effect is posted at all entrances. APPENDIX A. Statement of appropriations made for, and revenues received from, the various national parhs, and expenditures made therefrom under supervision of the department, during the fiscal years 1906-1916, inclusive. Appropriations, Revenues. Name of the national park. Appro- priated. Expended, Received, Ex- pended. 20,165,00 28,090,00 34,475.00 36, 540. 00 36, 060. 00 182,518.00 35, 279, 16 Hot Springs Reservation: 1907 19,938.41 1908 21,115.56 1909 '. 19, 699. 27 1910 28,401.97 1911 1 2,935,00 2, 935. 00 56,375.33 I ( 3,267.96 1912 { 2 42,957.18 3 29, 438. 25 I ( 40,711.00 1913 > 2 34,581.57 " 1,273.70 1: < 1,287.90 38,380.00 37,877,66 37,926.32 1914 6 36, 658. 62 1915 36,941.95 1916 40,261.14 1917 2,935.00 2,935,00 429,310,04 370,910.91 Yellowstone: 1907 .. 7, 500, 00 8,000,00 15 8,000,00 '2,500,00 8,000,00 8,500,00 8, 500, 00 8,500,00 8, 500, 00 8, 500, 00 8, 500. 00 8, .500, 00 7,498,64' 7,999.40 7, 997. 44 1,962,53 7, 999. 71 8,499,96 8, 500, 00 8,500,00 8,500,00 8,500,00 8, 491. 41 1,838,96 4,699,65 4, 790. 20 5,110.05 23,420.13 16,476.38 21,980.10 15, 439. 23 20,307.40 46, 628. 49 3,647.04 1908 4, 228. 37 1909 . . 3,661.47 1910 . 3,359.80 1911 . 7,998.47 1912 . 8, 103. 41 1913 6, 449. 97 13,843.24 1915 12,884.18 26,350.96 1917 93, 500, 00 84,449.09 160,690.59 90,526.91 Sequoia: 1907 10, 000. 00 15,550,00 15,550,00 15,550.00 15,550.00 15,550.00 15,550.00 15,550.00 15,550.00 15,5.50.00 / 22,300.00 \8 50, 000. 00 9,919.82 15,333.50 15,373.96 15,514.19 15,543.34 15,549.20 15,549.52 15,549.27 15,549.65 15,549.75 1 159.50 43.15 46.57 121.78 255.65 305. 16 353.85 • 4,094.21 1,975.03 5,169.86 18. 9r 1909 1910 1911 31.25 48,25 1913 70.81 1914 83.94 1915 3, 498. 23 1916 4,740.75 1917 i 222,250,00 149,4.32.20 12,524.76 8,492.20 Yosemite: 5,750,00 30,000,00 30,000,00 30,000,00 62,000,00 9 12,000,00 50, 000, 00 80,000,00 5,705,24 29, 508. 58 29,969.86 29,983.82 62,000.00 9 11,646,37 49,999,68 80,000,00 9,193,04 14,390,06 15,851,17 21,373,18 35,765,48 23. 855. 77 19,493.83 1,000.00 1908 7,131.37 5,024.84 1910 34,486.09 19,050.39 1912 35,970.68 1913 16,431.16 1 Proceeds from sale of Government lots (lot fund). 2 Expenditure from lot fund. -i. • 3 Includes 81,272.71 expended in making survey and preparation of plans, etc., for sewer system, city oi Hot Springs. < Contributed by city of Hot Springs on account sewer system; S14.20 returned to city. 6 Includes 99 cents expended on account of survey sewer system. 6 Administration and protection. ' Marking unmonumented portions of park boundaries. s For purchase of private holdings. 9 Appropriation, without year, for examination of water supply for city of San Francisco. 76 SUPERINTEN^DENT OF XATIOXAl. PARKS. APPENDIX A— Contiimed. 77 statement of appropriations made for, and revenues reeeived from, the various national txirks, and expenditures made tlierefrom under supervision of the department, during the fiseal years 1906-1916, inelusive — Continued. Appropriations. Revenues. Name of the national park. Appro- priated. Expended. Received. Ex- pended. Vosemite— Continued. 1914 $125 000 00 $121, 798. 49 99. 235. 22 74,992.54 S23, 406. 14 37. 019, 20 49,878.42 S9,903.58 40, 699. 30 52,961.53 1915 100,000.00 75,000.00 250,000.00 1916. 1917 599,750.00 597,839.80 250,228.29 222,658.94 General Grant: 1907 2,000.00 2,000.00 , 2,000.00 2,000.00 2,000.00 2,000 00 2,000.00 2,000.00 2,000.00 2,000.00 2,000.00 1,988.75 1,914.76 1,999 93 1,999.90 1,999 89 1,998.60 1,939 20 2, 000. 00 2,000.00 19,99.36 1908 63.75 1909 1910 50.00 210.64 173.54 158.68 4?9 64 560. 89 1,795.50 19U 18.88 . 99 503'. 01 1.59 355 68 1912 1913 1914 1915. 1916 481 46 1907 22,000.00 19,900.39 3,442 64 1,361.01 Mount Rainier: 1907 12,500.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 5, 400. 00 20,000.00 23,400.00 51,000.00 30,000.00 30,000.00 2, 407. 91 2,965.59 2,961.61 3j000.00 2,998.90 5,399.99 19,9'^9.70 23,347.05 50,907.79 29,999.77 205. 22 170. 00 1, 104. 79 9,053.79 7,748.48 5,370.36 7, 301. 62 9,040.10 12,893.29 19,317.99 1908 8.96 27 65 1909 1910 2,763.86 5,342.47 9,363.33 6,791.80 6,039.42 5,513.46 15,026.08 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 J 174,300.00 143,978.31 72,205.64 50,877.03 Crater Lake : 1907 3,000.00 7,315.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 3,000.00 7,540.00 8,040.00 8,000.00 8,000.00 2,989.75 7,314.65 2,999.21 2,999 97 2,999 77 2,998.75 2,978.41 7, 48:3. 61 7,884.59 7, 835. 25 10.00 n 1908 1909 15.00 11.00 30.00 323.00 784. 18 793.00 1,359.50 2,402.04 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 56,895.00 48,483.96 5,727.72 Wind Cave: , 1907 4, 400. 00 2,500.00 2, 500. 00 2, 500. 00 2,500.00 2,500.00 375.00 2, 500. 00 2,500.00 2, .500. 00 2,500.00 4,3P8.08 2, 433. .54 2,335.37 2, 500. 00 2,413.60 2, 499. 86 132. 50 2,500.00 2, 496. 97 2,463.51 1P08 200.00 4.50.00 523. 25 340.00 675. 00 528.26 246. 17 2,342.90 2,590.89 1909 220 80 62.88 562. 26 278. 56 1,197.39 366. 72 606. 16 981.57 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 27,275.00 24,173.43 7,896.47 4,276.34 1 No appropriation made for Mount Rainier prior to 1907 fiscal vear. 2 Expenditure of revanues of Cratsr Lake and Mesa Verde Parks for park purposes therein not author- ized by existing statutes enacted by Congress. 65399—16- -6 78 SUPEKINTEIs'DENT OF ISTATIONAL PARKS. APPENDIX A— Continued. titatement of appropriations made for, and revenues received from, the various national parks, and expenditures made therefrom under supervision of the department, during the fiscal years 1906-1916, inclusive — Continued. x\ppropriations. Revenues. Name of the national park. Appro- priated. Expended. Received. Ex- pended. Piatt: 1907 (') 178.00 7,021.00 272. 00 164.50 422. 75 165. 50 49.95 2 17,500.00 282. 81 241. 76 301.11 7,082.25 10,552.26 15,764.27 11,734.74 779 06 1908 ... . .... 1909 1910 1911 .5,000.00 10, 000. 00 / 8,000.00 \ 217, 500. 00 8,000.00 8,000.00 18,000.00 8,000 4,994.64 9,999.34 7,999.95 210,120.73 7,988.55 8,000.00 17,060.49 1912 219. 84 1913 100. 11 1914 2 10,119.06 67 48 1915 178 87 1916 (deficiency, 810,000) 44.35 1917 82, 500. 00 66, 163. 70 26,599.38 56,624.29 Mesa Verde: 1907-8 7,500.00 7,500.00 7,500.00 2, 000. 00 20,000.00 7, .500. 00 15,000.00 10,000.00 10, 000. 00 10, 000. 00 10,000.00 7, 455. 82 7,348.33 7,443.09 947. 75 19,808.63 -,.351.54 14,956.91 <>,880.30 ■•9,786.05 9,643.47 (=) 1909 1910 1910-11 (for examination of coal lands in park) 1911 100.00 898. 92 615.21 679.00 637. 42 946.38 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 107,000.00 94,621.89 3,876.93 Glacier: 1911 15,000.00 69,200.00 75,000.00 100,000.00 75, 000. 00 75,000.00 110,000.00 14,998.59 69,117.64 74, 568. 24 99,999.49 74,994.27 74,963.78 326. 88 1,490.94 4,677.14 4,010.71 4, 218. 51 10,011.76 1912 ; 1913 ; 428. 84 1914 ; 477. 07 1915 9,735.44 1916 844. 58 1917.. 519, 200. 00 418, 642. 31 24,735.94 11,485.93 Rocky Mountain: 1915 3,000.00 8,000.00 10,000.00 2, 910. 80 7,941.56 (6) 1916 501.93 21,000.00 10,852.36 501.93 Protection of Nat. Monument: 1917. ... 3,500.00 Improvement of Mukimtuweap Nat. Monument, Utah: 1917 ... 15,000.00 1 No appropriation for Piatt Park prior to 1911 fiscal year. Land prior to creation of park included in Sulphur Sprines Reservation. 2 Coistruetion sanitary sewer, like amount being contributed by the city of Sulphur, Okla.; ?7,380.94 reti rned to city. 3 Exp^n.liture of revenues of Crater Lake and Mesa Verde Parks for park purposes therein not author- ized by existing statutes enacted by Congress. * S '2"). 30 on contract account construction ranger cabin included in this amoimt and not yet paid. s Evpenditure of revenues from Rocky Mountain Park not authorized bv existing statutes for park purposes therein. SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PAEKS. APPENDIX A— Continued. Visitors to national parks, 1909 to 1916. 79 Name of park. 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 Hot Springs Reservation Yellowstone National Park. . Casa Grande Ruin («) 32, 545 854 13, 182 798 5,968 4,171 3,216 25,000 190 165 120,000 19,575 2.407 13; 619 1,178 8,000 6,000 3,387 125,000 190 250 130,000 23,054 1450 3,114 12,530 2,160 10,306 14,500 3,887 30,000 1200 206 14,000 135,000 22,970 1450 2,923 10,884 2,240 8,946 5,235 3,199 131,000 1200 230 6,257 1135,000 24,929 1450 3,823 13,735 2,756 13,501 6.253 3,988 135,000 300 280 12, 138 1125,000 20,250 1500 4,667 15,145 3,735 15,038 7,096 3,592 130,000 500 502 14, 168 1115,000 51, 895 500 7,647 33,452 10,523 35, 166 11,371 2,817 ■20,000 1,000 663 14,265 131,000 118,740 35,849 1 909 Sequoia National Park Yosemite National Park General Grant National Park. Mount Rainier National Park. Crater Lake National Park. . . Wind Cave National Park . . . Piatt National Park 10, 780 33,390 15,360 23,989 12,265 9,000 130 000 SuUys Hill National Park Mesa Verde National Park . . . Glacier National Park 11,500 1,385 12 839 Rocky Mountain National Park 151 000 Hawaii (^5 (2) Lassen Peak Total 86,089 198,606 224,407 229,534 252, 153 240,193 335,299 358.006 1 Estimate. 2 No record kept. Receipts collected from aiitomoMles and motorcycles admitted into the national parks during the period from Nov. 17, 1915, to Oct. 10, 1916. - Number of permits issued. Receipts. Name of national park, and fee charged. Automo- biles. Motor- cycles. Automo- biles. Motor- cycles. Total au- tomobiles and mo- torcycles. Yellowstone: 105 season permits at SIO, 3,238 single trip at $7.50. 3,343 $25,335.00 42.87 Deduction of transmission fees 729 1 4 25,292.13 1,588.00 5.75 $25,292.13 Sequoia: 130 season permits at $3, 599 single trip at $2, 4 motorcycles at S2 $8.00 Deduction of transmission fees 3,913 1,582.25 19,576.00 59.07 1,590.25 Yosemite: 52 in Mariposa Grove at SI, 73 season permits at $8, 3,788 single trip at $5 Deduction of transmission fees 1,714 39 19,516.93 929.00 3.62 19,516.93 General Grant: 8 permits in 1915 at $1, 34 season permits at S2.50, 1,672 single trip at 50 cents, 39 motorcycles at 50 cents 19.50 Deduction of transmission fees 2,903 97 925.38 12,809.00 38.81 944.88 Mount Rainier: 1 single trip at S5, 1,984 single trip at S4, 790 season permits at $6, 128 rent cars at U, 97 motorcycles at$l 97.00 Deduction of transmission fees 1,749 26 12, 770. 19 3,707.00 1.38 12, 867. 19 Crater Lake: 209 .season permits at S3, 1,540 single trip at S2, 26 motorcycles at SI 26.00 Deduction of transmission fees 3.705.62 3,731.62 80 SUPERINTENDENT OP NATIONAL PARKS. APPENDIX A— Continued. Receipts collected from automoMles and motorcycles admitted into the national parks during the period from Nov. 11, 1915, to Oct. 10, 1916 — Continued. Number of permits issued. Receipts. Name of national park and fee charged. Automo- biles. Motor- cycles. Automo- biles. Motor- cycles. Automo- biles and motor- cycles. Mesa Verde: 2 season permits at S2, 176 single trip at 50 cents, 178 2 $92.00 .80 $1.00 447 11 91.20 270.00 .47 $92.20 Glacier: 31 season permits at $2, 416 single trip at 50 cents, 5.50 269.53 275. 03 Total 14,976 179 64,153.23 157.00 64,310.23 APPENDIX B. [PtJBMc — No, 235 — 64th Congees s,] [H. R. 15522.] An act to establish a National Park Service, and for other purposes. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That there is hereby created in the Depart- ment of the Intex'ior a service to be called the National Park Service, which shall be under the charge of a director, who shall be appointed by the Secretary and who shall receive a salary of $4,500 per annum. There shall also be ap- pointed by the Secretary the following assistants and other employees at the salaries designated : One assistant director, at $2,500 per annum ; one chief clerk, at $2,000 per annum ; one di'aftsman, at $1,800 per annum ;' one messenger, at $600 per annum ; and, in addition thereto, such other employees as the Secretary of the Interior shall deem necessary : Provided, That not more than $8,100 annually shall be expended for salaries of experts, assistants, and em- ployees within the District of Columbia not herein specifically enumerated unless previously authorized by law. The service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of the Federal areas known as national parks, monuments, and reservations hereinafter specified by such means and measures as conform to the fundamental purpose of the said parks, monuments, and reservations, which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wild life therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations. Sec. 2. That the director shall, under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior, have the supervision, management, and control of the several national parks and national monuments which are now under the jurisdiction of the Department of the Interior, and of the Hot Springs Reservation- in the State of Arkansas, and of such other national parks and reservations of like character as may be hereafter created by Congress : Provided, That in the supervision, management, and control of national monuments contiguous to national forests the Secretary of Agriculture may cooperate with said National Park Service to such extent as may be requested by the Secretary of the Interior. Sec. 3. That the Secretary of the Interior shall make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the use and manage- ment of the parks, monuments, and reservations under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service, and any violations of any of the rules and regulations authorized by this Act shall be punished as provided for in section fifty of the Act entitled "An Act to codify and amend the penal laws of the United States," approved March fourth, nineteen hundred and nine, as amended by section sis of the Act of June twenty-fifth, nineteen hundred and ten ( Thirty -sixth United States Statutes at Large, page eight hundred and fifty-seven). He may also, upon terms and conditions to be fixed by him, sell or dispose of timber in those cases where in his judgment the cutting of such timber is required in order to control the attacks of insects or diseases or otherwise conserve the scenery or the natural or historic objects in any such park, monument, or reservation. He may also provide in his discretion for the destruction of such animals and of such plant life as may be detrimental to the use of any of said parks, monu- ments, or reservations. He may also grant privileges, leases, and permits for the use of land for the accommodation of visitors in the various parks, monu- ments, or other reservations herein provided for, but for periods not exceeding twenty years; and no natural curiosities, wonders, or objects of interest shall be leased, rented, or granted to anyone on such terms as to interfere with free access to them by the public: Provided, however, That the Secretary of the Interior may, under such rules and regulations and on such terms as he may prescribe, grant the privilege to graze live stock within any national park, 81 82 SUPEEINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. monument, or reservation herein referred to when in his judgment such use Is not detrimental to the primary purpose for which such park, monument, or reservation was created, except that this provision shall not apply to the Yellowstone National Park. Sec. 4. That nothing in this Act contained shall affect or modify the pro- visions of the Act approved February fifteenth, nineteen hundred and one, entitled "An Act relating to rights of way through certain parks, reservations, and other public lands." Approved, August 25, 1916. APPENDIX C. [Public — No 171 — 64th Congkess.] [H. R. 9525.] An act to establish a national park in the Territory of Hawaii. Be it enacted "by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That the tracts of land on the island of Hawaii and on the island of Maui, in the Territory of Hawaii, hereinafter de- scribed, shall be perpetually dedicated and set ai)art as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people of the United States, to be known as Hawaii National Park. Said tracts of land are described ^s follows : First. All that tract of land comprising portions of the lands of Kapapala and Keauhou, in the district of Kau, and Kahaualea, Panaunui, and Apua, in the _ district of Puna, on the island of Hawaii, containing approximately thirty-five thousand eight hundred and sixty-five acres, bounded as follows : Beginning at a point on the west edge of the Keamoku Aa Flow (lava flow of eighteen hundred and twenty-three), from which point the true azimuth and distance to Govern- ment survey trigonometrical station Ohaikea is one hundred and sixty-six de- grees twenty minutes, six thousand three hundred and fifty feet, and running by true azimuths : ( First ) Along the west edge of the Keamoku lava flow in a northeasterly and northwesterly direction, the direct azimuth and distance being one hundred and ninety-eight degrees ten minutes, fourteen thousand seven hundred feet; (second) two hundred and fifty-six degrees, eleven thousand four hundred feet, more or less, across the land of Kapapala and Keauhou to a marked point on the Humuula trail; (third) three hundred and twenty-eight degrees fifteen minutes, eight thousand seven hundred and twenty-five feet across the land of Keauhou to the top of the fault north of the Kau road ; (fourth) along the fault in a northeasterly direction, the direction azimuth and distance being two hundred and fifty-one degrees and thirty minutes, four thousand three hundred and thirty feet; (fifth) two hundred and forty-five degrees, six thousand feet, to a point near the southwest boundary of the land of Olaa ; ( sixth ) three hundred and thirty-seven degrees ten minutes, eight thousand six hundred and fifty feet, more or less, to the junction of the Hilo and Keauhou roads; (seventh) three hundred and thirty-three degrees and twenty minutes, three thousand three hundred feet, more or less, to the south- west corner of the land of Keaau; (eighth) three hundred and thirty-two de- grees and ten minutes, seven thousand feet, along the land of Kahaualea ; (ninth) two hundred and eighty-one degrees, thirty thousand three hundred and seventy-five feet, more or less, across the land of Kahaualea, passing through the north corner of the land of Panaunui, to the north corner of the land of Laeapuki; (tenth) thirty-one degrees thirty minutes, thirteen thousand two hundred feet, more or less, along the land of Laeapuki and across 'the land of Panaunui; (eleventh) eighty-nine degrees and ten minutes, thirty-two thousand nine hundred feet, more or less, across the land of Panaunui, Apua, and Keauhou to Palilele-o-Kalihipaa," the boundary point of the Keauhou- Kapapala boundary; (twelfth) fifty-one degrees and thirty minutes, five thou- sand and five hundred feet, across the land of Kapapala ; (thirteenth) one hun- dred and two degrees and fifty minutes, nineteen thousand one hundred and fifty feet, across the land of Kapapala to a small cone about one thousand five hundred feet southwest of Puu Koae trigonometrical station; (fourteenth) one hundred and sixty-sis degrees twenty minutes, twenty-one thousand feet, across the land of Kapapala to the point of beginning. Second. All that tract of land comprising portions of the lands of Kapapala and Kahuku, in the district of Kau, island of Hawaii ; Keauhou second, in the district of North Kona ; and Kaohe, in the district of Hamakua, containing seventeen thousand nine hundred and twenty acres, bounded as follows: Be- ginning at Pohaku Hanalei of Humuula, a small cone on the brow of Mauna 83 84 SUPEEINTENDE]SrT OF NATIONAL PARKS. Loa, and at the common boundary points of the lands of Humuula, Kapapala, and Kaohe, from which the true azimuth and distance to Government survey trigonometrical station Omaokoili is one hundred and ninety-five degrees twelve minutes eighteen seconds, seventy-eight thousand two hundred and eighty-six feet, and running by true azimuths: First, two hundred and ninety-eight de- grees, five thousand two hundred and forty feet; second, twenty-eight degrees, thirty-six thousand nine hundred and sixty feet; third, one hundred and eighteen degrees, twenty-one thousand one hundred and twenty feet; fourth, two hundred and eight degrees, thirty-six thousand nine hundred and sixty feet; fifth, two hundred and ninety-eight degrees, fifteen thousand eight hun- dred and eighty feet, to the point of beginning. Third. A strip of land of sufficient width for a road to connect the two tracts of land on the island of Hawaii above described, the width and location of which strip shall be determined by the Secretary of the Interior. Fourth. All that tract of land comprising portions of the lands of Honuaiila and Kula, in the district of Makawao, and Kipahulu, Kaupo, and Kahikinui, in the district of Hana, on the island of Maui, containing approximately twenty- one thousand one hundred and fifty acres, bounded as follows: Beginning at a point called Kolekole, on the summit near the most western point of the rim of the crater of Haleakala, and running by approximate azimuths and dis- tances : First, hundred and ninety-three degrees forty-five minutes nineteen thousand three hundred and fifty feet along the west slope of the crater of Haleakala to a point called Puu-o-Ili ; second, two hundred and sixty-eight de- grees twenty-three thousand feet up the western slope and across Koolau Gap to the point where the southwest boundary of Koolau Forest Reserve crosses the east rim of Koolau Gap ; third, three hundred and six degrees thirty minutes seventeen thousand one hundred and fifty feet along the southwest bounaary ot Koolau Forest Reserve to a point called Palalia, on the east rim of the crater of Haleakala ; fourth, along the east rim of the crater of Haleakala, the direct azimuth and distance being three hundred and fifty-four degrees fifteen min- utes eighteen thousand three hundred feet to a point on the east rim of Kaupo Gap, shown on Hawaiian Government survey maps at an elevation of four thousand two hundred and eight feet ; fifth, eighty-eight degrees forty-five min- utes three thousand three hundred feet across Kaupo Gap to a point called Kaumikaohu, on the boundary line between the lands of Kipahulu and Kahi- kinui ; sixth, one hundred and two degrees and thirty minutes forty thousand seven hundred and fifty feet along the south slope of the crater of Haleakala to the point of beginning. Sec. 2. That nothing herein contained shall affect any valid existing claim, l9cation, or entry under the land laws of the United States, whether for home- stead, mineral, right of way, or any other purpose whatsoever, or shall affect the rights of any such claimant, locator, or entryman to the full use and en- joyment of his land. Whenever consistent with the primary purposes of the park the act of February fifteenth, nineteen hundred and one, applicable to the location of rights of way in certain national parks and the national forests for irrigation and other purposes, shall be and remain applicable to the lands included within the park. The Secretary of the Interior may, in his discretion and upon such conditions as he may deem wise, grant easements or rights of way for steam, electric, or similar transportation upon or across the park. Sec. 3. That no lands located within the park boundaries now held in private or municipal ownership shall be affected by or, subject to the provisions of this Act. Sec. 4. That the said park shall be under the executive control of the Secre- tary of the Interior whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care and management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury of all timber, birds, mineral deposits, and natural curiosities or wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural condition as nearly as possible. The Secretary may in his discretion grant leases for terms not exceeding twenty years, at such annual rental as he may determine, of parcels of land in said park of not more than twenty acres in all to any one person, corporation, or company for the erection and maintenance of buildings for the accommodation of visitors; but no such lease shall include any of the objects of curiosity or interest in said park or exclude the public from free and convenient approach thereto or convey, either expressly or by implication, any exclusive privilege within the park except upon the premises held thereunder and for the time granted therein; and every such lease shall SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 85 require the lessee to observe and obey each and every provision in any Act of Congress and every rule, order, or regulation of the Secretary of the Interior concerning the use, care, management, or government of the park, or any object or property therein, under penalty of forfeiture of such lease. The Secretary may in his discretion grant to persons or corporations now holding leases of land in the park, upon the surrender thereof, nevp leases hereunder, upon the terms and stipulations contained in their present leases, with such modifications, restrictions, and reservations as he may prescribe. All of the proceeds of said leases and other revenues that may be derived from any source connected with the park shall be expended under the direction of the Secretary, in the manage- ment and protection of the same and the construction of roads and paths therein. The Secretary may also, in his discretion, permit the erection and maintenance of buildings in said park for scientific purposes : Provided, That no appropriation for the maintenance, supervision, and improvement of said park in excess of $10,000 annually shall be made unless the same shall have first been expressly authorized by law : And provided further, That no appropriation shall be made for the improvement or maintenance of said park until proper conveyances shall be made to the United States of such perpetual easements and rights of way over private lands within the exterior boundaries of said park as the Secretary of the Interior shall find necessary to make said park reasonably accessible in all its parts, and said Secretary shall when such ease- ments and rights of way have been conveyed to the United States report the same to Congress. Approved, August 1, 1916. \ APPENDIX D. [Public — No. 184 — 64th Congress.] [H. R. 348.] An act to establish the Lassen Volcanic National Park in the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the State of California, and for other purposes. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That all those certain tracts, pieces, or parcels of land lying and being situate in the State of California and within the boundaries particularly described as follows, to wit : Beginning at the northeast corner of section three, township thirty-one, range sis east, Mount Diablo meridian, California ; thence southerly to the southeast corner of said section ; thence easterly to the northeast corner of the northwest quarter of section eleven, said township; thence southerly to the southeast corner of the southwest quarter of section fourteen, said township; thence easterly to the northeast corner of the northwest quarter of section twenty-fOur, said town- ship ; thence southerly to the southeast corner of the southwest quarter of sec- tion twenty-five, said township ; thence westerly to the southwest corner of section twenty-six, said township ; thence southerly to the southeast corner of section thirty-four, said township ; thence westerly along the sixth standard parallel north, allowing for the proper offsets, to the northeast corner of section three, township thirty north, range six east ; thence southerly to the southeast corner of section twenty-seven, said township ; thence westerly to the south- west corner of the southeast quarter of section twenty-eight, said township ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of the southeast quarter of said sec- tion ; thence westerly to the southwest corner of the northwest quarter of said section ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of said section ; thence west- erly to the southwest corner of the southeast quarter of section twenty, said township ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of the southeast quarter of said section ; thence westerly to the range line between ranges five and six east ; thence southerly along said range line to the southeast corner of township thirty north, range five east ; thence westerly along the township line between townships twenty-nine and thirty north' to the southwest corner of section thirty-three, township thirty north, range five east; thence northerly to the northwest corner of said section; thence westerly to the southwest corner of the southeast quarter of section twenty-nine, said township; thence northerly to the northwest corner of the southeast quarter of said section ; thence westerly to the southwest corner of the northwest quarter of said section ; thence north- erly to the northwest corner of said section ; thence westerly to the southwest corner of the southeast quarter of section twenty, township thirty north, range four east ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of the southeast quarter of section eight, said township; thence easterly to the northeast corner of the southwest quarter of section nine, said township ; thence northerly to the town- ship line between townships thirty and thirty-one north ; thence easterly along the sixth standard parallel north, allowing for the proper offsets, to the south- west corner of section thirty-three, township thirty-one north, range four east ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of section twenty-one, said township; thence easterly to the range line between ranges four and five east; thence northerly along said range line to the northwest corner of fractional section eighteen, township thirty-one north, range five east ; thence easterly to the south- west corner of section twelve, said township ; thence northerly to the northwest corner of section one, said township; thence easterly along the township line between townships thirty-one and thirty-two north to the northeast corner of section three, township thirty-one north, range six east, the place of beginning, are hereby reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, disposal, or sale, under the laws of the United States, and said tracts are dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of 80 SUPERINTENDENT OF NATIONAL PARKS. 87 the people of the United States under the name and to be known and designated as the Lassen Volcanic National Park ; and all persons who shall locate or settle upon or occupy the same, or any part thereof, except as hereinafter pro- vided, shall be considered trespassers and be removed therefrom : Provided, That nothing herein contained shall affect any valid existing claim, location, or entry under the land laws of the United States or the rights of any such claim- ant, locator, or entryman to the full use and enjoyment of his land : Provided' further, That rights of way for steam or electric railways, automobiles, or wagon roads may be acquired within said Lassen Volcanic National Park under filings or proceedings hereafter made or instituted under the laws applicable to the acquisition of such rights over or upon the national forest lands of the United States when the construction of such roads will not interfere with the objects of the national park, and that the United States Reclamation Service may enter upon and utilize for flowage or other purposes any area within said park which may be necessary for the development and maintenance of a Gov- ernment reclamation project ; that no lands located within the park boundaries now held in private, municipal, or State ownership shall be affected by or sub- ject to the provisions of this act : And provided fiirther, That no lands within the limits of said park hereby created belonging to or claimed by any railroad or other corporation now having or claiming the right of indemnity selection by virtue of any law or contract whatsoever shall be used as a basis for indemnity selection in any State or Territory whatsoever for any loss sustained by reason of the creation of said park. Sec. 2. That said park shall be under the exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations not inconsistent with the laws of the United States as he may deem necessary or proper for the care, protection, management, and improvement of the same. Such regulations being primarily aimed at the freest use of the said park for recreation purposes by the public and for the preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, and natural curiosities or wonders within said park and their retention in their natural condition as far as practicable and for the preservation of the park in a state of nature so far as is consistent with the purposes of this Act. He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said park and against their capture or destruction for purposes of merchandise or profit, and generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary to fully carry out the objects and purposes of this Act. Said Secretary may, in his discretion, execute leases to parcels of ground not exceed- ing ten acres in extent at any one place to any one person or persons or com- pany for not to exceed twenty years when such ground is necessary for the erec- tion of buildings for the accommodation of visitors and to parcels of ground not exceeding one acre in extent and for not to exceed twenty years to persons who have heretofore erected, or whom he may hereafter authorize to erect, sum- mer homes or cottages. Such leases or privileges may be renewed or extended at the expiration of the terms thereof. No exclusive privilege, however, shall be granted within the park except upon the ground leased. The regulations governing the park shall include provisions for the use of automobiles therein and the reasonable grazing of stock. Sec. 3. That the Secretary of the Interior may also sell and permit the re- moval of such matured or dead or down timber as he may deem necessary or advisable for the protection or improvement of the park. Sec. 4. That the Secretary of the Interior may" exact such charges as he deems proper for leases and all other privileges granted hereunder. Sec. 5. That no appropriation for the maintenance, supervision, or improve- ment of said park in excess of $5,000 annually shall be made unless the same shall have first been expressly authorized by law. 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