F 392 M^ Copy 1 NOTES ON THE •UPPER RIO GRANDE; BY BKYANT P. TILDEN, JR. EXPIOEED IN THE MONTHS OF OCTOBER AND NOTEMBER, 1846, ^ ON BOARD THE U. S. STEAMER MAJOR BROWN, ••V COMMANDED BY • CAPT. MARK STERLING, OF FITTSBTJKGH, BYORDEROF MAJOR GENERAL PATTERSON, U. S. A., COMMANDING THE SECOND DIVISION, ARMY OF OCCUPATION, • MEXICO. PHILADELPHIA: LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON. 1847. i RECENT EXPLORATION RIO GRANDE. " Lieutenant B. P. Tilden, of the 3d Regiment of Infantry, and now aide-de-camp to Major General Patterson, was, on the first day of October last, detached by that officer on board of the Steamer Major Brown, commanded by Captain Mark Sterling, of Pittsburg, for the purpose of proceeding as far as possible up the Rio Grande, — of ascertaining if that river was navigable to any high point, — and, in that case, of defining it precisely. The service was one of some adventure, the river passing through a debateable country, infested by the partisans of the enemy, and hiding in its waters peculiar and un- known perils. Lieutenant Tilden was therefore placed in command of twenty non-commissioned officers; and arms were placed on board for the boat's crew, numbering, all told, twenty men. The account of this expedition contains much valuable information, and may be considered as perfectly successful, testing the navigability of the river ; for we must remember the expedition was made when the water was at the lowest ebb. The expedition has unfolded much that was valu- able, and acting on the hints received from it, contracts have already been formed and arrangements made to supply the American steamers on the coast of the Gulf with the coal from Guerrera, which is said to resemble much the cannel coal with which we are familiar. Charts of the route of the expedition accompany the work." — United States Gazette, Philadelphia. n NOTES UPPER RIO GRANDE, BY BRYANT P. TILDEN, JR. EXPLORED IN THE MONTHS OF OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER, 1846, ON BOARD THE U. S. STEAJ^IER MAJOR BROWN, COMMANDED BY CAPT. MARK STERLING, OF PITTSBURGH.- BY ORDER OF MAJOR GENERAL PATTERSON, U. S. A. COMMANDING THE SECOND DIVISION, ARMY OF OCCUPATION, MEXICO. PHILADELPHIA: LINDSAY & BLAKISTON. 1847. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, by G. R. WRIGHT. in the clerk's office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. STEREOTYPED BY J. FAGAN. PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN. (2) f ^^ . TO DR. A. RACKLIFFE, GUERRERA, MEXICO. In thus bringing your name before the pubHc, my dear sir, beheve me, I am actuated by a sense of jus- tice, prompted perhaps by a feeUng of friendship, such as naturally draws lovers of the adventurous together. A few short days have been passed by us in com- pany, in exploring regions, yet to be made known to our countrymen at large. You are generally believed to have been the first navigator of the Rio Grande, in American-built flat- boats ; and although circumstances have not allowed me to avail myself of your chart of the " Rio Bravo del Norte," I trust that some day it will be brought before the public in a suitable manner, doing justice (iii) iv DEDICATION. to its delineator, and affording a correct drawing of the river, from its mouth to the "Presidio de Rio Grande," with all its courses and distances correctly laid down, during an experience of nearly seventeen years. The expedition alluded to in the first part of my notes was Colonel Austin's, which was undertaken some fourteen years since, when, with your assistance, acting as pilot, a steamboat drawing over five feet of water, ascended the Rio Grande, to a point above the mouth of the Alcantro. THE AUTHOR. Camargo, Mexico, Dec. 1, 1846. PREFACE. Much does the writer of the following pages regret, that time is not allowed him to prepare a more detailed statement, touching the very interesting portion of country he has had an opportunity of observing. The sketch accompanying these pages is to be re- garded merely in the light of the field notes of a survey. The general course of the river is correctly given ; and although the lengths of the bends are not stated, their courses and their characteristics are accu- rately laid down. Both the notes and the sketch offered, are the re- sults of actual observation, and will serve to convey a better idea of the Upper Rio Grande, than an elabo- rately-finished drawing might do by itself. (V) NOTES ON THE UPPER RIO GRANDE, In offering the following pages to the public, the author is fully alive to the importance of adhering to simple facts, without adorning or embellishing the naked truth ; it being hoped and believed by himself and his friends, that even his humble efforts may have their effect in enlightening some of his fellow-country- men upon matters, now of importance to the interests of American enterprise. That portion of the Rio Grande — as that mighty tributary to the Gulf of Mexico, the " Rio Bravo del Norte" has been improperly named ; but which name having become Americanized, will be adhered to in these pages — below the Rio San Juan, has long been rendered familiar to the public mind through more able writers. It is therefore unnecessary for that part of the river to be described in this particular instance. Steamboats drawing five feet of water, it is well known, have plied between the mouth of the Rio Grande and the town of Camargo, in Mexico, on the right bank of the San Juan, at a distance by water of CO 8 NOTES ON THE four hundred and fifty miles from the Gulf. And boats drawing three and a half and four feet, can at all times ply between the above named points. The practica- bility of navigating the Rio Grande to any town above the San Juan, has never till very recently been fairly attempted ; nor has a fair and careful examination and report of the character of this part of the river been made, until the United States' steamer, Major Brown, drawing not over two feet, ascended, in the month of October, 1846, to Laredo, in Texas, having touched at Mier, on the right bank of the Rio Alcantro or Alamo, and at Reveilla or Guerrera, on the left of the Rio Salado, in Mexico. The Rio Grande above the San Juan, has long been pronounced impracticable. And with but one excep- tion, which occurred so long since as to have become either forgotten or misbelieved, all who have attempted to ascertain the practicability of this river higher up, have speedily returned, making adverse reports, each sustaining the assertions of the others. Unwilling to rely implicitly on such reports, and believing that an exploration, faithfully performed, might result in the opening of a military communication, those having authority directed an exploration to be made, with that end in view. The officer to whom the charge of the exploration was entrusted, was accordingly placed on board the United States' steamer, Major Brown, a boat selected with a view to this particular service, and commanded by Captain Mark Sterling, of Pitts- UPPER mo GRANDE. 9 burg, with a detachment consisting of nineteen privates and a non-commissioned officer. The boat's crew, all told, numbered twenty-seven. Muskets for every in- dividual, with plenty of ammunition and one month's provisions, were placed on board ; and on the first day of October, 1846, this party started, with orders to proceed nearly three hundred miles up the Rio Grande, and as far above the point thus reached as practicable; in order to ascertain whether or not it were possible to open a desired military communication between Camargo and Presidio de Rio Grande. The armistice after the " battle of Monterey," had just been trespassed upon, if not violated, by the murder of two American soldiers near Camargo, in a shocking manner, by the Mexicans ; Canales's band of desperadoes were on the alert ; disbanded Ranchero troops along the borders, and the Camanche and Lippan Indians, were exercising their propensity to plunder and destroy, unable or unwilling to distinguish Ameri- can from Mexican, where temptation and power were sufficiently strong to invite them to success. These facts, and others, supposed to be equally, if not more alarming, were presented, discussed, and dismissed, with the usual result. All armed Mexicans who might be found in the vicinity of the Rio Grande, unable or unwilling to give an account of themselves, were to be disarmed, captured, or destroyed, as might become necessary ; as they were then to be considered as outlaws and enemies to mankind. 10 NOTESONTHE •From the mouth of the San Juan to that of the Alcantro, on the right bank of which, and at a distance of three or four miles from the Rio Grande, is the town of Mier, is a distance of about forty miles. With but one exception, no obstacle causing delay presented itself This occurred at a place some ten miles below Mier ; and even this was owing to an adherence to a wrong direction. The town of Mier contains from 4000 to 6000 in- habitants, and has already occupied its full share of attention, through the medium of the American press. Its manifold resources will probably remain undeve- loped, until American genius shall have directed atten- tion and capital to that quarter. Its neighbouring ranches supply its every-day necessaries of Hfe. Its water-power, which might be employed in the manu- facture of woollen and cotton stuffs, is lying unnoticed, while the raw material for each may be procured in the vicinity, with but little labour. Upon the opening of the navigation of the Rio Grande to the commercial world, American domestic goods will find a ready market all along this south-western frontier. Herds of cattle, containing thousands, and flocks of sheep and goats, containing tens of thousands, are not un- frequently to be seen, that, by proper care and manage- ment, would feed and clothe almost half the world. Horns and hoofs, instead of being reserved for proper uses, are almost always thrown away. Beyond Mier the character of the country changes UPPER RIO GRANDE. 11 for the better. The land is more uniform in its ap- pearance ; fertile bottoms, with strength and depth of soil, are on both sides of the Rio Grande. And these are frequently backed by bottom bluffs, the shores being for the most part a narrow strip of sand or gravel, surmounted by river bluffs of various heights. The willow tree, and occasionally the white cypress, occur near the river. The musquit, ebony, and rose-wood, or a wood much like it, abound in all directions. All of these furnish a handsome and durable wood, well suited for light cabinet work. Early on the morning of the fourth of October, several mounted armed Mexicans appeared on the American shore. The boat's speed was checked, and the Mexicans, through an interpreter, were requested to stop, and were informed that those on board wished to speak to them. Whereat they turned their horses' heads, and started in a gallop towards a small stone fort, on a hill just ahead of the boat, where others appeared to be waiting. Four or five shots were then fired, which wounded only one of them, and that but slightly. The boat being stopped, and signals made, two of them were finally prevailed upon to come on board, without their arms, by the displaying of a white flag. They said they had been told to run, or they would be fired upon, and that the rest of their party had taken to the chapparel with their wounded com- rade. By their own account, they were procuring cattle for an American at Mier, and were armed for 12 NOTESONTHE defence against the Indians. The stone fort on the hill was for this latter purpose. On comparing notes with the bungling interpreter, their statement appeared plausible, and after taking something to eat and drink, they were suffered to depart without molestation. There are parts of the river above the Alcantro, and below the Salado, requiring ample motive power in order to stem the current. Although the musquit wood does pretty well in making steam, no boat ought to attempt to run on the river without coal. It became necessary to stop the Major Brown more than once on this part of the river, in order to get up steam enough to proceed with. There are no obstacles whatever between the above named rivers, not obvious at a glance to any experienced boatman, and none which it is not perfectly easy to avoid. The town of Guerrera, or Reveilla, is situated near the left bank of the Salado, twelve miles from its mouth, and at a distance of about eight miles from the Rio Grande, by land. The Rio Grande, at the time the exploration was commenced, was supposed to be at its lowest stage. The Rio Salado was evidently full. The freshness and verdure which pleases the eye on entering the Salado, is soon succeeded by an appearance of dearth and famine. Hills rise abruptly, exhibiting a sparse vege- tation, consisting of a scraggy scrub, and of the cactus tribe in many varieties. Blackened rocks and escarp- ments, exposing to view many colours, or rather shades, UPPER RIO GRANDE. 13 passing through black, yellow, red, and white, lead one involuntarily to exclaim — and what next ! Just below the town, near the foot of which the boat was moored, is a scene well worthy the attention of the artist. On the right of a large island, near the centre of the river, are the "Guerrera Falls," extending in a horse-shoe form to the right bank, and of over twenty feet fall ; while on the other side, deep and roaring waters rush, tumbling headlong in one extended rapid, as if mad- dened at their neighbours for having outstripped them by their desperate leap, and determined to win the goal at every hazard. Guerrera, as the town is most commonly called, was founded more than one hundred years since, and was first selected by the Spaniards as a missionary station among the Indians. Indeed, such was the origin of nearly all the Mexican towns on and near the Rio Grande. The rumour of coal being in the vicinity, was suffi- cient to warrant a thorough exploration of the whole neighbourhood. And in two days, from six to eight tons of a hard bituminous coal, of a first-rate quality, was placed on board the Major Brown. Red and yellow ochre, and a tolerably pure brimstone, and also nitre in abundance, are found in large quantities within a circumference of eleven miles from the town. A small quantity of silver ore was found in the neigh- bourhood of the coal. The stone among which it was discovered, is a firm sandstone. At a distance of about 2 14 NOTESONTHE ten miles from Guerrera are two sulphur springs, pos- sessing nearly the same properties and qualities as the far-famed Blue Lick waters. These springs appear side by side, having a difference of level of two feet. Probably they are but one, contained in an inverted syphon, the lower one running over, while the other is receiving a constant supply. The citizens of Guerrera resort to these waters on account of their healing vir- tues, whether suffering from ordinary sickness, or from disease of any kind. The Salado derives its name from the properties of its waters, which appear to con- tain at least one of the sulphur salts. Evaporation, produced by the heat of the sun, frequently leaves a white salt on the rocks near its shores ; and this, on applying heat, emits a faint sulphurous odor. The ranches, from which this town derives its sup- plies, are for the most part on the Texas side of the Rio Grande, opposite the mouth of the Salado. The town contains 8000 inhabitants, and exhibits an ap- pearance of comfort and ease, if not of wealth. The boat was literally thronged, day and night, during the three days that she lay at Guerrera. A second and a third table were required at almost every meal, for the accommodation of visitors, who ate either from hunger or curiosity. Their astonishment and wonderment at everything connected with the ma- chinery of the boat was truly amusing. The Alcalde remarked, "Those Americans can do anything they like, and it is no use fighting against them. They can UPPER RIO GRANDE. 15 make iron into any shape they please." On the boat's approaching the town, a man galloped to the Alcalde's house, and informed him that "the Americans were coming in a thing that split the rocks right in two, forcing a passage for itself." The fact was, he saw the boat ascending a deep and narrow channel, where the river falls diagonally over rocks to the other side. The Catholic priest affected much astonishment, that the "American Bible should be so hke the Roman Catholic Bible." Entertainments were made in honour of the Major Brown's arrival, at which many of the boat's company were present, and expressed themselves highly gratified at the beauty and courtesy of the women, and at the cordiality of the men. The strongest desire was manifested by very many of the citizens, that peace might be soon established on a permanent footing between Mexico and the United States. While there, a party of Lippan Indians made a descent upon some of the neighbouring ranches, and carried off five little boys, killed several men, and wounded others. Two of the wounded men passed the night of their mishap on board of the boat. Their wounds were dressed ; and after having been rendered as comfortable as circumstances would permit, they were carried to town the next morning on litters. The citizens generally evinced much gratitude for the kind- ness shown their unfortunate friends, and begged that the Americans would send troops for their protection. They expressed a desire to overthrow the " Military 16 NOTES ON THE Anarchy," denominated "Government," that has so long prostrated the whole genius of the " Mexican Na- tion." " Only let us live on the other side of the ' Rio Bravo del Norte,' " said a young man, " and we will become Americans too. The i^mericans are just, humane, and generous in war, while our tyrannical oppressors despoil us of our dearest rights in peace." Guerrera is at a distance of nearly one hundred miles from the mouth of the Alcantro, by water. The remarks made concerning the natural sources of wealth about Mier, apply with more than double the force in the case of Guerrera. And it is further worthy of remark, that the country near the head waters of the Salado, abounds in timber of large dimensions. Early on the morning of the eighth of October, an immense crowd of all ages, sexes, and conditions, thronged the shore, to take a farewell of the Major Brown. Acclamations, waving of scarfs, handkerchiefs, shawls, and blankets, with wishes for a prosperous voyage, and a speedy return, were in sight and in hearing, until the boat's speed placed her beyond reach of either. The landing for boats is about one mile and a half below the town. Above the Rio Salado, the Rio Grande presents a series of continued shoals, rocks, ripples, and rapids. And, after swinging on a rock, and passing through a circuitous channel, the boat grounded at the foot of a large island, having apparently plenty of water on each side of it. Nearly every foot of these UPPER RIO GRANDE. 17 passages was carefully sounded. The passage to the left had an average and pretty uniform depth of five and a half feet of water; but at its head it appeared closed by a bar of sand and gravel, where the water was so shoal, that even the yawl could not be forced over it. The right hand passage afforded plenty of water, but it was ascertained that points of rock were standing straight up from the bottom of it. Appre- hensive of a succession of similar obstacles in advance, a critical examination of the river above, to the distance of six miles, was made by a party of twenty ; fifteen men, under charge of a non-commissioned officer, pass- ing up along shore, while the remainder were employed in the yawl. The whole party encamped, or rather bivouacked, at sundown, on the Mexican side, in com- pany with a party of Rancheros, who were protecting their flocks, and had constructed a large fold, and a bower, for temporary shelter. It seemed preferable to encamp with these people, rather than to give them a chance of making a night attack with any hope of success. And rather than risk a Mexican knife across one's throat, or between one's ribs, it was deemed not imprudent to decline their hospitable invitation to par- take of their lodgings and fare, in too close a proximity. Accordingly, while the Rancheros were sleeping or waking inside of their enclosure, the boat's party were quietly lying on their arms, each man a sentinel, just outside and around them. Some of the Carrice Indians, of whom many are 18 NOTESONTHE peons to the Mexicans, were of the above named party, and were armed with bows and arrows. Their bow, hke that of the Lippans and the Camanches, is short, and is for the most part made of the sap wood of the ebony tree. Their arrows are pointed in a diamond-shaped head, with iron or steel. One pecuh- arity of their arrow, not met with in those of many other tribes, is, that they are frequently made hollow, and with grooves, for the purpose of letting the air into a wound, which is most disastrous in its effects, causing the whole wound, to its entire depth, to be inflated. A few trials of skill with these weapons, convinced their owners that there were American marksmen by no means inferior to themselves. These people were engaged in packing wool to take to Guerrera, for ship- ment to Matamoras. The fine and the coarse wool, together with a pretty fair allowance of goats' hair, were all being packed together in the same bag, to be sold as wool. The thorns, which grow on almost everything in this country, save much trouble in shearing. Of all this the merchants well know how to take advantage to their own profit. On returning to the steamboat the next morning, it was reported, that if the boat could be possibly got over the place just before her, it was barely possible she might get on much further ; and that a good river was to be seen in the distance, from the bivouack of the night previous. The river having been reported at its lowest stage, by those pretending to a knowledge UPPER RIO GRANDE, 19 of the matter, it was natural to infer that it would soon rise. Consequently, a slight fall which had been noticed while the boat remained stationary, was not regarded as of much account. By the almost incessant exertions of all the officers and crew, including the guard, the boat was made to pass over a distance of nearly a quarter of a mile during the day. One day more saw her over three miles further ; and the day following she made more than twenty-five miles in a good river. A remarkable passage in this part of the river is well worthy of notice. At a distance of some twenty miles above the Salado is a reef, stretching diagonally across the river for one mile in extent. Over this reef the water falls in some places two feet. And just below its centre, nearest the American shore, is a passage of a hundred feet or more, through which the main body of the water passes, forming a strong and deep rapid. Power and direction are all that is requisite, in order to pnss up or down this passage in safety. After passing safely, in deep water, by a succession of reefs jutting out from the Mexican shore, an accident occurred, which threatened to dash the boat to pieces, and imminently to endanger the lives of all on board. Just at sundown, in attempting to mount a deep cur- rent which was falling over a hollow in a wide reef, the boat swung on and between two large rocks, owing to a want of power. There she reeled to and fro, the force of the current momentarily gaining upon her; and it seemed as though she must either fairlv roll 20 NOTESONTHE over, or else break in two. Captain McGowan, a well- known pilot, was at the wheel ; and Captain Sterling, the commander of the boat, was in a dozen different places almost at the same time. A momentary con- sultation between these two, followed by a few rapid, brief, and distinct orders, which were as promptly and as coolly obeyed as though nothing extraordinary de- pended on their successful execution, soon placed the boat in comparative safety. And in a few moments more, by the skilful management of the steersman, and the attention of the engineers, she was safely landed on the American side. At one ranche, where the boat stopped to wood, some Mexicans having been permitted to visit on board, offered the captain a choice of a beef from a large herd, as a present, stating that they had heard of the steamboat's having been at Guerrera. They declined receiving pay in return, but were prevailed upon to accept a small present, consisting of two coarse shirts, two bottles of coffee, and three or four pounds of sugar. On being requested, they exhibited some papers, which were observed to be in the hats of two of them, for perusal. They were orders from the Al- calde at Guerrera to furnish beef, and conveying intel- ligence of the " Battle of Monterey," whereby they were informed that the Americans had lost three thou- sand men killed and wounded, and that the Mexicans had lost but five hundred ; but that the latter had sur- rendered to the Americans. They laughed at the dis- UPPER RIO GRANDE. 21 crepancy themselves, and said that their rulers always tried to deceive them. They contrasted in the strongest light, the robberies perpetrated by their own soldiery, with the good treatment that their people uniformly received at the hands of the Americans. From the twelfth to the twenty-fourth of October, but slow progress was made in ascending the Rio Grande, owing principally to a succession of reefs, having but few passages between them, and all of which were of doubtful practicability to the first steam navi- gators of this part of the river. Passages between islands and the main shore on either side, appearing to be entirely closed by reefs or chains of rocks, were by turns passed through, by warping up stream. Only a few snags occur as far up as Laredo ; and these last scarcely need to be removed. The whole difficulty consists in the narrowness of the passages through the reefs, all of which may be easily widened at a com- paratively slight expense. For a distance of forty or fifty miles below Laredo, the country on both sides of the river is, with one exception, hilly, and near the Rio Grande, rocky. Nearly the whole rock formation is a sandstone, for the most part constantly forming near the river ; the intense heat of the sun, succeeding long and heavy rains, soon hardens the alluvial deposits into rock. Strata of gravel are frequently to be seen, which, on being traced out, lead to a compact conglomerate mass, now forming. Many of the bluffs exhibit near their bases large strata of fire-clay, of the best quality. 22 NOTESONTHE Coal is frequently to be seen, as is also nitre and brim- stone, in one neighbourhood. But the most singular appearances to a casual observer are, what might be called calcareous conglomerates. Entire hills are to be seen, that are composed almost wholly of what appears to be a collection of large sea oyster-shells, of nine or ten inches in length, and two or three inches in thickness. At a distance of twenty-five miles below Laredo, is a reddish-coloured bluff, nearly one hundred feet in height, which contains a great many petrifac- tions of roots. These last appear to be impregnated with a carbonate of iron, the bark fibres and rings being perfectly distinct. The exception just alluded to is some fifty miles below Laredo, on the Texas side of the Rio Grande. There, a small stream, the only one thus far observed not entirely dry, on this side of the river, flows through a low valley, the only valley deserving the name on the whole route. For some distance below and above this point, the land slopes gently towards the north-west on the Texas side, and is rather level than otherwise on the opposite side of the river. On the twenty-fourth of October, the Major Brown astonished the people of Laredo by her arrival at that port, destined beyond dispute to become the head of navigation on the Rio Grande. This town lies on both sides of the river, and is at a distance of about seven hundred miles by water from its mouth. Texan Laredo contains about fifteen hun- UPPER RIO GRANDE. 23 dred inhabitants, and its buildings are for the most part of stone. In Mexican Laredo the buildings are mostly of cane, and of wood and mud, and it numbers not far from five hundred inhabitants. This town is important in a commercial point of view, being on the direct route from San Antonio de Bexar, in Texas, to Monterey, at a distance of one hundred and fifty miles from the former place, and about two hundred and fifty miles from the latter. The resources belonging legiti- mately to these two extreme points, both separately, and taken in connection with each other, are too well understood to require particular notice here. Laredo has but few points of attraction for the agri- culturist or the manufacturer. It possesses mines, it is true, both of coal and nitre ; but its growth and prosperity must follow from its very fortunate natural position. After a hundred thousand dollars shall have been expended in the proper improvement of the river above Mier, boats drawing four feet can readily ply between the mouth of the Rio Grande and Laredo. And in the middle stage of the river, boats with suffi- cient power require only the services of a pilot. Owing to the unexpected falling of the river, it was deemed inexpedient to attempt to proceed beyond La- redo, previous to making an exploration further up. Accordingly, after a few days had been occupied in preparing an official report of the progress of the ex- pedition thus far, a party of four, among whom were 24 NOTESONTHE two of the boat's pilots, and one of the engineers, ac- companied by Doctor RackHffe as a guide and inter- preter, started on horseback for Presidio de Rio Grande, for the purpose of examining the river between that point and Laredo, in such a boat as they might be able to procure. A respectable Mexican wishing to travel in their company, for the sake of protection against Indians, was permitted to do so ; and he proved to be an excellent travelling companion. Leaving Laredo an hour or two before sundown, on the twenty-ninth of October, the party reached Presidio on Sunday morning, the first of November. The distance by land is not much over one hundred miles. The route lies for the most part through an uninteresting country. Sometimes it passes through immense plains, contain- ing little vegetation, sometimes descending abruptly into, or rising from deep ravines or gullies ; and again over a wide, sandy desert, with scarce any vegetation at all, save a musquit chapperal once in a while, varied by the casual appearance of the prickly pear. About forty miles from Presidio de Rio Grande is a field for lovers of the curious. At this place there is a basin of perhaps forty miles in circumference, exhibiting many appearances of ruins. In every direction on the hills, are to be seen columns and walls in ruins, and on the desert these occur likewise in many places. Some of these columns appeared in sixes and in threes, equi- distant, forming sides to what may have been enclo- UPPER RIO GRANDE. 25 sures of some kind. Some are round and some square. And all have an appearance of having been the work of man. The stones composing these are, both sand- stone and limestone. Many are cemented together, leaving scarcely the trace of a joint, if they be works of art. Others are disjointed, and stand like boulders, appearing as though some mighty water-course had, in ages past, swept everything around them away, leaving these monuments of its power to tell of its ex- istence in ages to come. Be this as it may, there are a great many of these appearances of ruins ; and in peaceful times, when neither Indian nor Mexican shall be prowling about, some antiquarian or geologist may discover and reveal the secret of these walls and columns. The Mexicans believe them to be the ves- tiges of some ancient city, which was in ruins before the Spaniards first came to Mexico. The country between Laredo and Presidio, in Mexico, shows but few signs of cultivation ; being for the most part used, wherever enclosures do occur, as pens for cattle or sheep. The town of Presidio de Rio Grande, or of the " Garrison of the Rio Grande," is situated about six miles from General Wool's crossing, at the river, and contains two thousand inhabitants. This town is, without exception, the prettiest one on our south- western frontier. Nearly every dwelling has its garden or yard ; and the whole town is plentifully and conve- 3 D 26 NOTESONTHE niently irrigated. Its style of building, like that in the other towns mentioned, is tasteful, and even striking in effect, but most wretchedly meagre and insignificant in detail. All the Mexican towns have an appearance of antiquity, owing in a very great measure to the materials used for construction, and to a heavy and clumsy solidity of structure, often mis-styled massive. Re-crossing the Rio Grande near Presidio, Captain Moore's politeness furnished the party from Laredo with a dug-out, which had been much cut up, and sunken on the Texas side some time previous. This, with the assistance rendered by a part of his com- mand, was, in about two days and a half, converted into the semblance of a boat, patched and boarded until pronounced sea-worthy; when, with the exception of Dr. Rackliffe, who returned in charge of the horses, the party from the steamboat embarked, on the after- noon of the fourth day of November, 1846, on their return, to examine the river down to Laredo. Doctor White, and Mr. Misner, from the command at the crossing, accompanied them in their dug-out to the first falls below, which were at that time only one or two feet in height, and at a distance of three or four miles from the Illinois and Arkansas camp. From this point a succession of reefs and falls, of from two to three feet, occur at short intervals, for a distance of twenty miles. These reefs in many in- stances form solid walls from one island to another, UPPER RIO GRANDE. 27 the river widening to a breadth of more than a mile, containing in one group more than twenty islands. Several of these reefs were examined from one end to the other, and sounded near their coasts, in the hope of finding some opening, but to no purpose. The only method of passing with safety was, for every one to get out of the boat, and after heading her over a reef, to force her into the rapids beneath, hanging on to her sides, stem and stern, and then climbing in as she floated on below. This method, well understood among American pioneers and frontiersmen, is not a very safe one to be generally followed. At a distance of more than fifty miles below Presidio, and on the Mexican side, a high rock rises vertically from the very water's edge to a height of fifty feet, having an even surface. Close by are two rock islands, in mid- stream, which at high water cannot be covered. Rapids rushing with a tremendous velocity through the passage thus formed, render it doubtful, should any steamboat attain this point, whether it will be safe for it to attempt to pass down it in any stage of the river. A remarkable coal-mine, in the vicinity of which is found a great abundance of what is commonly termed red chalk, is to be seen, on the Mexican shore, at not a great distance above Laredo, and within two hun- dred yards of the river. Standing on coal itself, the vein is to be seen eight feet in thickness above the 28 NOTESONTHE base, by actual measurement. This coal is of a very superior quality. The range and dip correspond with the formations examined at Guerrera and elsewhere, and the characteristics in all the formations observed, proved to be the same, without any perceptible diffe- rence. The coal contains little or no sulphur, burns readily and freely, and falls burning into water. It answers admirably for welding, as has been proved by experiment. In a country where fuel is so very ex- pensive as it is on this frontier, these mines must prove invaluable, when their uses shall have become known. The particular vein just noticed, was traced for nearly a quarter of a mile without much interrup- tion. It is said that it is about to be worked by a company of Americans and Mexicans; and after the war is over, they will, in all probability, form a dep6t for their coal at the mouth of the Rio Grande, which will prove to be an excellent market. The coal-mines at Guerrera are owned and worked by a company of Americans alone ; and, in opening, taking many cir- cumstances into consideration, promise a better yield than any mines in the United States. A simple fact will illustrate the force of this remark, namely : if these mines are found to contain much ore of the precious metals, of which there are certainly indications, the same labour that affords coal will, at the same time, afford silver, and probably gold. Gold dust is found in small quantities in almost all UPPERRIO GRANDE. 29 the alluvial deposits above the Rio San Juan. But it is problematical, whether or not sufficient quantities are contained in these deposits, to justify anything fur- ther than an attempt at washing, with a view to ascer- taining facts. At a distance of fifteen or twenty miles above La- redo, there is a wide semicircular basin, almost wholly walled in by lofty vertical bluffs, where the river passes through a labyrinth of islands, shoals, rocks, reefs, and snags, sometimes in rapids, and sometimes in long shoots, varying in force with the different stages of the stream. Yet, even this place is ascended in fiat-boats by Mexicans. Presidio de Rio Grande, which is on the direct route between San Antonio de Bexar and the interior Mexi- can trading and agricultural towns, must, in time, be compelled to add to the growth and importance of La- redo, while it will derive a reciprocal benefit therefrom. Laredo is destined ultimately to become, and to con- tinue for years, the head of navigation on the Rio Grande. On the Texas side, somewhere in the vicinity of the mouth of the Rio Salado, opposite that of the Rio Alcantro, or the Alamo, and at the place known as " Clay Davis's Landing," just below the San Juan, Americans may settle to a better advantage than at any other points below Laredo, if they have capital enough to begin on. Owing to the requirements of the climate, and the character of the soil, but little 3* 30 NOTESONTHE cultivation is necessary, in order to produce sufficient for the support of animal life. Although fine lands for cultivation are to be met with, the true wealth of these localities, should they ever be made, must be drawn from Mexican coffers, in exchange for domestic manufactures, and from Mexican productions, whether of nature or art, in trade and barter. All this may be regarded as an inevitable result, destined sooner or later to follow in due order, but not as the result of mere human choice. For, to the many, there is scarcely a spot on the Texan side of the Rio Grande, which at first sight touches the heart, and bids it feel there might be home ! From Presidio de Rio Grande to the mouth of the river, not one constant stream flows into it from the Texas side. Scarcely a tree suitable for heavy timber is to be seen on either side for this whole distance. And the desire for gain (although the love of conquest, or of glory, or of justice, or perhaps of the useful, it is expected, will place the south-western boundary of our republic along this mighty river,) is alone to people it. It ought to be well understood, that the poor man who is in- duced to emigrate to this border will in all probability become still poorer than he was; while those alone having capital to invest, and means wherewith to pay for necessary and acclimated labour, will derive any permanent pecuniary benefit from coming here to settle. The wealthy planter of the south may find it UPPER RIO GRANDE. 31 advantageous to remove to some of the points that might be selected on the Rio Grande. The merchant, the trader, and the miner, may, perhaps, after the war, find a new channel opened to them, through which wealth may be induced to flow to their hoards. While there exists every natural inducement to draw speculators to these points, no man can honestly invite the American emigrant hither. By American emi- grant, is here meant that class of pioneers, who have been and always will be leaving their old homes, from some cause or other, ready (and may success ever attend them,) axe in hand, to hew out their fortunes, and to establish new homes for Freemen, in the forests to which their fathers pointed in the distance, as being what their homes once were. In the interior of Texas the case is widely different. There, is a field for every one. But as these pages were intended merely to embrace a concise statement of a few facts, made known to the writer through actual observation, and as connected principally with that part of the Rio Grande above the San Juan, with a few obvious inferences therefrom, it would be super- fluous for him to touch upon other matters. If, on meeting the eye of those competent and willing to undertake the task, a perusal of these pages shall cause an actual investigation of facts connected with the Upper Rio Grande country in Texas, thereby inducing a plain, straight-forward statement of facts 32 NOTES ON THE UPPER RIO GRANDE. to be presented to the American people, in place of the stories, purporting to be based upon the best au- thorities, and these too often in a language not univer- sally understood throughout the country, and which are, almost daily, palmed off upon the credulous, one step will have been gained; and the hope may then be indulged, that when this frontier does become settled, it may be the means of turning back into the treasury of the American nation, some of the millions of which its occupation is said to be draining it, and which in fact it is ultimately bound, from the nature of things, amply to repay. THE END, •»^. K?l j^. c >, "^ ^ <5 Camar^o P Atoiit 300€ inJiaiitOMtf 4J(? mil^s frem tke TTtoittk ^ > ^ I Camp '^rad^ \ Explored in the monlKs of October and Novemter l846 on Board the U. S. Steamer Major Brown commanded ty Capt. M . Sterling of Pittstuigh Under i!ie direction of Lieu' Bryant E Tldenjr. 2? Re*^ U^ S. Infantry by order o~ MAJOR GENERAL PATTERSON U.S.A. CO n\maadiii§ tke ?j? division of the army ol" occiipalibn in M.exico, UTH.OT T.SIN;UIR. (' u m u r ^ o 9 Abinil Ji'Ci' iiilwiiliinly 4Ji' i/iiftJf'n-m f/if 'iii'iith of'Xiti /mtiii// ^ zP- ■^ N" Mier J^afA. ofTSiv/J/iir r^: ^ X*! 2 <7/Vtf/W?3 ^^^j. "'-''./ '-^r .^'•« -e-^ ^y i,,jj,.or7:.r/ncttar. N* !• fuM. m ^mgi 40f J .•«^«»wA^ •^ "^. »Av.«J' K -M. O Kai-p«lo /J^fr (i/i// JriU^iipr^ ^ \" j f i.,jh N? 6 ^ . lUhr-e /?ia/i SSo mi/fy from ^ '■^T'''-. J A Ote San Jjum. From r£0(i li'tooo inhafiUuJitf f ^ bvrstt/tff af'a waterspout somfvcaryut^e . of <■ o a. I ^n die" t t V? y ' 'W! \ ) .}'c trty^ ft't tor ttnil*/r mttr ami a spKtca^ or" Banian "Fn // / / / 1- I / T. 9. LirJi.L'f^T.Sinci A CARD. The Subscribers having- recently completed some important alterations in their store, are now prepared with increased facilities for carrying on their business of Publishing and Wholesale and Retail Dealing in BOOKS AND STATIONARY. They also manufacture Blank and Mercantile Account Books of all kinds, for City or Country Trade, for which they solicit orders from Merchants, Banks, or Public Offices. Their Assortment of Books includes of all kinds, together with MEDICAL, THEOLOGICAL, AND MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS. They also furnish to order, LAW BOOKS. All orders entrusted to them by persons at a distance will be executed promptly and on as favourable terms as if the parties were themselves present. They are prepared to make contracts with Professional Gentlemen, Authors, or others, for the Printing, Binding, and Publishing of Books, on favourable terms. Professional Men, Library Committees, or gentlemen purchasing private Li- braries, Country Booksellers, or Dealers, purchasing to sell again, are invited to call upon them. LINDSAY & BLAKISTON, N. W. corner Fourth and Chestnut Streets, Philadelphia. January, 1847. 1 Valuable Text Book for Schools, Colleges, or Private Libraries. Baldwin's Universal Pronouncing Gazetteer, CONTAINING '. Topographical, Statistical, and other Information, of all the More Important Places in the Known World, WITH A COLOURED MAP, AND A COMPLETE LIST OF EVERY TOWN AND POST-OFFICE IN THE UNITED STATES, OREGON, TEXAS, ETC., ETC. FROM THE MOST RECENT AND AUTHENTIC SOUKCES. This is a work of very uncommon merit. What book can be more acceptable to the teacher of youth, to the scholar in his study, to the Lawyer, the Doctor, the Clergyman, — in short, to every body, male and female, who wishes to know the true pronunciation of the names of places which he or she constantly meets with in history, in travels, in newspapers in the course of daily reading ? How numerous are the blunders we hear often, even from persons of good education, in the pronunciation of foreign geographical names. The work displays genuine literary taste as well as laborious research, and is deserving of universal acceptance. We believe it to be the first work of the kind ever issued from the English press, and we gratefiilly hail it as an American production. Published by LINDSAY & BLAKISTON, Philadelphia. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 645 779 4 ^ BOOKS PUBLISHED BY LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON, PHILADELPHIA. The Men and Times of the American Revolution. BY ALEXANDER GRAYDON. MEMOIRS OF HIS OWN TIMES, WITH REMINISCENCES OF THE Men and Events of the American Revolution, CONTAINING SKETCHES AND INCIDENTS IN THE PUBLIC LIVES Of Colonel Aaron Burr, General Burgoyne, Colonel Ethan Allen, Anthony Bene- zet, General John Cadwalader, Charles Carroll, Lord Camden, Benjamin Chew, Hugh Coxe, Baron de Kalb, John Dickinson, Dr. Franklin, Judge Biddle, Gene- ral Gates, General Greene, Alexander Hamilton, Colonel Hasslet, President Han* cock, Patrick Henry, General Howe, Francis Hopkinson, Ralph Izard, John Jay, Mr. Jefferson, John Laurens, Richard Henry Lee, General Charles Lee, Lord Littleton, Thomas McKean, General Mercer, Colonel Miles, General Mifflin, The Paxton Boys, Thomas Paine, Richard Penn, Colonel Pickering, General Putnam, Edmund Randolph, General Joseph Reed, General Washington, General Schuy- ler, Governor Snyder, Charles Thomason, Commodore Truxtun, Generals Warren, Wayne, Wilkinson, W. 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His memoirs of his own times give much informa- tion, undoubtedly authentic, on events during and subsequent to the war, and throws light upon many prominent occurrences of our Republic's early history, which he observed with a keen eye, and commented upon with great freedom and capacity." — N. Y. Com. Adv, THE MOST AMUSING BOOK OF THE AGE— ILLUSTRATED. JUDGE HALIBURTON'S YANKEE STORIES, With Four Beautifully Tinted Illustrations. A NEAT 12m0. VOLUME IN EMBOSSED CLOTH. " Original and pithy, it is always refreshing to fall in with this inimitable story- teller. His mixture of sound sense with genuine humour, his fund of informa- tion, and peculiar way of putting it on record, his fun and his force — the fun being part and portion of that force — are, at the same time, qualities so entertain- ing and instructive, that we know not, in the end, whether to be better pleased with the intelligence we have acquired, or the amusement we have received." — Lon. Lit. Gaz. 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