£,..■■■8 "5f' I ?jbw^' »■* W.i^J .■• -• -->M^^ i mWmm^m:W0^¥^: yCHic'-j^&o Mutual Chemical Co* of America BICHROMATE OF POTASH BICHROMATE OF SODA SulpHuric Acid 60° in Carload I^ots 110 William Street, New York FACTORIES Jersey City, N. J. Baltimore, Md, AIR Conditioning Systems No single air conditioning system will apply to all requirements of humidifying. There is a right kind for your particular problem. Note our complete line. Central Station Equipment 1. Ventilating 3. Heating 5. Constexit Hegain 2. Cooling 4. Humidifying 6. Air Cleaning Fan Driven (High Duty) Humidifiers I. Local Ventilating, and super capacity ia air conditioning. 2. Wall ventilating type. With Electric or Water Motor Fans Atomizer Type Humidifiers 1. General Mill use, best adapted to old or low posted rooms. 2. Special applications, such as direct application of moisture on picker laps, a further refinement being the Turbo-Sprayer, 3. Compressed air cleaning as a by-product. Spray Type Humidifiers Same as High- Duty, without fans. Not as effective as High-Duty . Recommended for special cases only. Humidity Regulating and Indicating Apparatus Parks-Cramer Cbmpar^ Etwtneers 6" Contractors Ittdustrial Pfpng mdAirCmditiotfitw Fikhbur^ Boston Ouirlott9 NORTHROP Trade-Mark Regr. U. S. Pat. Off. LOOMS on work that can be woven with one shuttle save 50 to 75 per cent. of the labor cost of weaving and produce better goods DRAPER CORPORATION HOPEDALE MASSACHUSETTS ATLANTA dEORQIA Practical Cotton Calculations A TREATISE RELATING TO COTTON YARN, CLOTH STRUCTURii], LOOM AND MISCELLANEOUS COTTON MILL CALCULATIONS BY ERNEST WHITWORTH Formerly Principal of the Desigtiing and Cloth Analysis Department, New Bedford Textile School ^^ PUBLISHED BY FIBRE AND FABRIC BOSTON. MASS. 1921 5^f Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1921 by THE WADE PUBLISHING CO. In the office of the Librarian of Congress Washington, D. C. %\ ni^ m -7 132! GLA614635 r? i? PREFACE f/O There are several reasons why t!ie author of this book has deemed its publication advisable. One reason has been the apparent want of a book dealing only with practical calculations. This has been borne in mind in the compilation of this book. The principal object has been to put into a con- venient form for reference a text^book of practical cotton yarn, cloth and general mill calculations. Being the only book on the market, so far as the author is aware, dealing only with practical cotton calculations, it is submitted to all persons, from student to superintendent, who have occasion to deal with cotton mill calculations. Most of the rules and methods explained in the following pages are deducted from data gathered from practical experience and have never been printed before. The remainder, with the exception of the yarn numbering and cloth production tables, are common property, and may be found in almost every book on textile calcula- tions. These are principally length and w^eight calcula- tions, where take-up or contraction is not considered. ESTABLISHED 1830 THE J. H. WILLIAMS COMPANY Millbury, Mass. SHUTTLES of Superior Quality and Finish Williams Standard Wire Heddles Twin Tempered Steel Heddles Iron and Wood End Heddle Frames Reeds, Cotton Harness, Bobbins, Spools, Etc. GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL WORDS AND TERMS In the cotton manufacturing business, various words, forms and terms are used in different mills to indicate the same thing; for example, warp yarn is known by one or other of the terms yarn, thread, end, twist, etc. For this reason it has been deemed advisable to define the following list of the principal words and terms which will be used throughout this book: Yarn. The final product of combined fibres after leaving the spinning frame or mule. Ply Yarn. Two or more single yarns folded or twisted together. Cord Yarn. A heavy ply yarn. Cabled Yarn. Two or more ply yarns twisted together. Picks. Filling yarns. Each filling yarn laid at right angles between the warp yarns is termed a pick. Sley. The number of ends per inch in the cloth, provided each dent in the reed in which it was made contained an equal number of ends. Pick. The number of picks per inch in the cloth, provided stop or check pegs are not used. Averagfe Sley. The average number of ends per inch in the cloth when some dents contain more ends than others. 6 Practical Cotton Calcclatioxs Average Pick. The average number of picks per inch in the cloth when check pegs are used. Count of Cloth. The sley and pick of a cloth. If a cloth is said to count 80X100, it means 80 sley and 100 pick. The first number given always indicates the sley and the second number the pick. A cloth is said to be square when the sley and pick are equal. Average Count of Cloth. The average sley and average pick of a cloth. WTien the average sley is diflPerent from the sley, or the average pick is different from the pick, the sley and pick, and average sley and average pick are usually writ- ten together, as follows: 80 100 X- 110 1^4 In some mills this means 80 sley X 100 pick for the ground of the cloth, and 110 sley X 1^4 pick average, whereas in other mills the top line indicates the average and the lower the count of the base or ground of the cloth. The relative positions, above or below the line, of the ground and average count, are matters of choice. Counts or Numbers of Yam. The relationship:) of length to weight in determining the size of yarn. Although the term "numbers" is used quite extensively the more universal term "counts" will be given preference in this book. Sley Reed, a reed that will produce a given sley in the cloth, provided two ends are drawn in each dent. Practical Cotton' Calculatioxs 7 Warp Pattern. One repeat of the arrangement ot the different counts or different colors of the warp yarns. Filling Pattern. One repeat of the dift'erent counts or different colors of the filling yarns. The filling pattern may differ in extent from the pat- tern or effect shown on the face of the cloth. For example, the filling pattern in a Marseilles quilt may repeat on a small number of picks, as six or eight, whereas the pattern formed by the weave would occupy an entire quilt. Selvedges or Selvages. Extra ends on the sides of the warp, used to strengthen the edges of the cloth and aid in keeping it at a uniform width. Fabric or Cloth. Warp and filling yarns combined and interlaced together. Multiplier. The number to multiply by. Product. The result of a multiplication problem. Sum. The result of an addition problem. Dividend. The number to be divided. Divisor. The number to divide by. Quotient. The result of a division problem. Deduct. To subtract or take from. -)- Plus or more, addition sign. X Multiplied by sign. ~r- Divided by sign. — Minus or less, subtraction sign. R. P. IVL. Revolutions per minute. 8 Practical Cottox Calculations CONSTANTS OR CONSTANT NUMBERS In dealing with textile calculations there are several numbers that constantly occur, making: it feasible in some cases to dispense with one or other by cancelling one into the other. The following list contains the principal constants that will be used in this book: 8.33; .2314; 4.32 in. or 4 5-16 in.; 764. The above constants, taken in rotation, are obtained as follows: .12 and 8.33. When iOOO (grains) and 840 (yards) occur in the same calculation, the 7000 may be dispensed with and .12 used instead of 840, or the 840 may be dispensed with and 8.33 used instead of 7000, because 840 -- 7000 r= .12, and 7000-^ 840 r= 8.33. In all calculations where a certain result may be obtained by multiplying by 8.33, the same result may be obtained by dividing by .12, or vice versa, because 1 X 8.33 — 8.33 1~ .12 = 8.33 One yard of I's cotton yarn weighs 8 1-3 grains. As most of the yarn calculations deal principally with lengths and weights, the rules marked "^ will also apply to all other systems where higher counts indicate fmer yarns by substituting their respective lengths in- stead of 840. Practicat, Cottok Calcflatioks 9 In calculations where the constant 8.33 appears, the rules will apply to other materials by substituting the following numibers: Worsted, 12.5; Woolen, run system, 4.375; Linen and Woolen, cut system, 23.33. The num- bers given indicate the weight in grains of 1 yard of I's yarn in the respective materials. Instead of .12 the following numbers may be used: Worsted, .08 ; Woolen, run system, .228 + ; Linen and Woolen, cut system, .043 — . If any rule marked * does not contain the number 840 or either of the constants .12 or 8.33, it will apply just as it stands for other materials as well as cotton. .2314 and 4.32. .2314 is used instead of 7000 because 7000 (grains) divided by 36 (inches per 36 X 840 V6 / J V r yard) and 840 (yards) equals .2314. 36 X 840 4.32 is used instead of because 36 X 840 7000 divided by 7000 equals 4.32. 764. This number is used in cloth calculations in- stead of 840 to allow for contraction in length and width, also for size or dressing on the warp yarns. All cloths contract in length and width to a greater or less degree, making it necessary to allow a certain amount of extra length of yarn for a given length, or width of cloth. The 764 allows (adds) 10%. 10% of 764 =r 76, and 764 -f 76 f= 840. The constant 764 cannot be used for all classes of goods because the factors mentioned above will vary in 10 Practical Cotton Calculations amount in different cloths. For very coarse goods, or cloths where sizing is added to give weight, a lower con- stant must be lised. The rules in which the constant 764 appears have been proved practical for cloths ranging in counts of yarn from 50's to TO's, and in counts of cloth from 60 to 80, the warp and filling in any one cloth, and the sley and pick being nearly equal. For some constructions of cloth the constant 764 will have to be substituted by another, higher or lov/er, according to whether the contraction is small or great. As perhaps all persons who have occasion to use the rules containing the constant 764 will have access to a weave room, it is advisable that they select a few styles that vary in structure, /. e., that vary in the sley as compared to the pick, or in warp as compared to filling, and note the difference in contraction, if any, and the cause of the same. From data obtained in this manner constants may be formulated that can be used in future when dealing with other cloths of approximately similar constructions. In this connection it will be well to bear in mind the various modifying factors explained under the headings Cloth Contraction and Reed Calculations. With the exceptions of rules 3, 58, 60, 61, Q2, 63, 80, 81 and those indi'cated with a "•% the rules Tn this book may be used to aid in solving problems connected with other textile materials as well as cotton. YARN CALCULATIONS LENGTH AND WEIGHT STANDARDS The following standards are used when dealing with cotton calculations: Standard of Lengths for Cotton IV2 y*^*^' ^= The circumference of reel, or 1 wrap. 1^0 yds. = 1 lea, or 80 wraps of the reel. 840 yds. = 7 leas, or 1 hank. Standard of Weights for all Textile Materials 437.5 grains = 1 ounce, avoirdupois. 7000 grains := 16 ounces, or 1 pound. The counts of cotton yarns are based on the number of times that the standard of length, 840 yards, is con- tained in the length of yarn required to balance the standard of weight, 1 pound; thus, if 840 yards of yarn balance 1 lb., the counts are I's. If 4200 yards of yarn balance 1 lb., the counts are 5's, because 4;?00 ^- 840 = 5 ; and so on, the higher the counts the more yards per pound, therefore the higher the counts the finer the yarn. See page 33 for tal)le ol counts and yards per pound of cotton yarns. 12 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY COIVL PARISON When analyzing small cloth samples, the average caimts of the yarn may readily be found from the cloth by Rule 49. In some cases the warp and filling may vary consid- erably in counts, making it necessary to find the counts of each separately. The counts of the warp yarn is generally found, the mills usually using but few different warp counts, and varying the weights of the cloths by changing the counts of the filling, if necessary, because it is more practical and convenient. Although short method No. 1. on the following page, may be applied for finding the counts of the yarn by weighing a few Inches, the most practical method is by comparing the warp yarn from the cloth with warp yarns of known counts. A B Vp>^ Fig. 1. B Fig:. 2. Fig. 1 illustrates the method of testing known with unknown counts; "A" represents the known and "B" the unkno^vn counts. To get the yarns as here shown place one or more yarns of the known at right angles to the Practical Cotton Calculations 13 unknown counts, and twist them, making, as it were, one continuous yarn. If one yarn is coarser than the other, it can readily be seen, after twisting. Fig. 2 shows the j^arns in Fig. 1 after being twisted. It is advisable to wet the yarns, at the point where they are crossed, before twisting. The greater the number of strands of each count used, the less the liability to error. This method of testing is used practically, because a mill usually uses the nearest counts of warp yarn that they have on hand to the counts of the warp in the sample if they intend to duplicate it. Some persons do not care to trust the naked eye when comparing yarns, but prefer to use a magnifying glass of some kind, such as a pick glass, reading glass, or microscope. TESTING YARNS FOR COUNTS, BY WEIGHING SHORT LENGTHS 1. The number of inches that weigh 1 gr. X .;2314 = Counts. X?. The number of strands of yarn, each 4 5-16 inches or i.32 inches long that weigh 1 grain = Counts. 3. Number of yards weighed X 8 1-3 ^- weight in grains = Counts. 4. Number of yards weighed -i- .1-2 X weight in grains = Counts. 5. 1000 divided by weight in grains of 1 lea = Counts. 14 Practical Cottox Calculatioks REELING YARNS To Find Counts of Yam from Any Number of Yards Reeled or Measured "^'Rule 1. MuUiphj the number of yards reeled by 81-3, and divide by the weight in grains. ExA3rPLE, 10 yards of cotton yarn weigh 9 grains. What are the counts? 10 yds. X 8.333 = 41.66".> count?, Ans. 3 grs. or by '"'Rule 2. Divide the number of yards reeled by .12 and the weight in grains. Example. Same as preceding. 10 yds. — = 41.66's counts, Ans. .U X 3 grs. Rules 1 and 2 will apply when desiring To Find the Number of Hank of Roving. To Find Counts of Yarn from Bobbins or Cops Reel one lea each from 1, 2, 3, or 4 bobbins or cops, and use — Rule 3. Add o cijyhers to the number of leas reeled and divide by the tceight of the yarn in grains. Example. One lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbin* and found to weigh 50 grains. What are the counts? 4000 -=- 50 grs. = 80's counts, Ans, Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 15 In the above rule 1-7 of a bank is considered in con- nection with a corresponding portion of a pound, i. e., 1-7 of 7000 grains r=r 1000 grains. If 1 lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbins, then 4 leas are reeled, or 4-7 of a hank. As 4-7 of a hank is weighed, the weight must be divided into 4000 grains, or 4-7 of a pound. The principal reasons why 1 lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbins in preference to 4 leas from 1 bobbin, or 1 lea from 1 bobbin, are that the yarn may be reeled on an ordinary reel from 4 bobbins at a time, thus saving time, and a better average may be obtained, as there is greater liability for the yarn to vary in size on 4 bobbins than on 1 bobbin. On the four following pages Draper's cotton yarn numbering tables are reproduced by permission of the Draper Co., Hopedale, Mass. These tables are based on the weight in grains of 1 lea, or 120 yards. If more than one bobbin or cop is used, and more than one lea weighed, divide the weight in grains by the number of leas. Example. One lea is reeled from each of 4 bobbins, and found to weigh 50 grains. What are the counts? 50 -f- 4 = 1;?.5 grains per lea, which shows on the table to be 80's yarn. 16 Practical Cotton Calculatioxs Table for numbering Cctton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards or I skein. m;d8 Number 120.vd6.' Number 120yds N'umber 120yil!< Natnber 120yd9. Number f weigh of weigb of weigb of weigh of weigh of graine. Tare. grains. yart. (trains Yarn. pnuns 28. Yarn grains. Yarn. 1. 1000. 14. 71.43 «1 47.62 35.71 35. 28.57 2. 500. .1 70.92 .1 47.39 .1 35.59 .1 28.49 3, 333.3 2 70.42 2 47.17 .2 35.46 .2 28.41 4. 260.0 3 69.93 3 46.95 .3 35.34 .3 28.33 5. 200.0 4 69.44 4 46.73 .4 35.21 .4 28.26 6.6 181.8 .5 68.97 5 46.51 .6 35.09 .5 28.17 6. 166.7 .6 68.49 6 46.30 .6 34.97 .6 28.09 6.5 153.8 .7 68.03 .7 46.08 .7 34.84 .7 28.01 142.9 .8 (-.^•1 8 45.87 .8 34.72 .8 27.93 z'.b 133.3 .9 67. n .9 45.66 .9 34.60 .9 27.86 8 125.0 15- 66.07 Zt. 45.45 29 34.48 36 27.78 1 123.6 .1 66.23 .1 45.25 .1 34.36 .1 27.70 1 2 122.0 .2 65.79 45.05 .2 34.25 .2 27.62 1 3 120.5 3 65.36 ]3 44.84 .3 34.13 .3 27.55 4 119.0 .4 64.94 .4 44.64 4 34.01 .4 27.47 5 117.6 .5 64.52 .5 44.44 .5 33.!'0 .5 27.40 S 116.3 6 64.10 .6 44.25 .6 33.78 .6 27.32 -1 114.9 7 63.69 7 44.05 7 33.67 7 27.25 (! 113.6 .8 63.29 8 43.86 .8 33.50 .8 27.17 9 112.4 .9 62.89 9 43.67 .9 33.44 .9 27.10 e. 111.1 16 62.50 23 43.48 30 33.33 37 27.03 1 109.9 1 62.11 .1 43.29 1 33.22 1 26.95 .2 108.7 2 61.73 .2 43.10 2 33.11 .2 26.88 3 107.5 3 61.35 3 42.92 .3 33.00 .3 26.81 4 106.4 4 60.98 .4 42.74 .4 32.89 .4 26.74 5 105.3 .6 60.61 5 42.55 .5 32.79 .6 20.67 € 104.2 6 60.24 .6 42.37 .6 32.68 .6 20.60 7 103.1 7 59.88 7 42.19 .7 32.57 .7 20.53 .8 102.0 .8 59.52 .8 42.02 '.» 32.47 .8 26.46 9 101.0 .9 59.17 .9 41.84 .9 32.36 26.39 10 100.0 17. 58.82 24.^ 41.67 31. 32.26 38. 20.32 .1 .2 99.01 .1 58.48 41.49 .1 32.16 .1 26.25 98.04 2 58.14 2 41.32 ,2 32.05 .2 20.18 .3 97.09 .3 57.60 3 41.15 .3 ! 31.95 ,3 26.1 1 4 96.15 4 57.47 4 40.98 ,4 31.85 .4 26.04 5 95.24 5 57.14 5 40.82 .5 31.75 .5 25.97 6 94.34 6 56.82 .6 40.65 .6 31.65 .6 25.91 7 93.46 7 56.50 ■ 7 40.49 7 31.55 .7 25.84 8 92.59 .8 56.18 .8 40.32 .8 31.45 .8 25.77 9 91.74 .9 55.87 9 40.16 .9 31.35 .9 25.71 11. 90.91 18. 55.56 26. 40.00 32. 31.25 39. 25.64 1 90.09 1 55.25 1 39.84 .1 31.15 .1 25.58 2 89.29 2 54.95 .2 39.68 ,2 31.06 .2 25.51 .3 88.50 3 54.64 3 39.53 .3 30.96 .3 25.45 4 87.72 4 54.35 4 39.37 4 30.SC 4 25.38 f. 86.96 .5 54.05 5 39.22 .5 30.77 5 25.32 6 86.21 .6 53.76 .6 39.06 6 30.67 .6 25.25 •9 85.47 .7 F3.48 .7 38.91 7 30.58 .7 25.19 ^8 84.75 .8 53.19 .8 38.76 .8 30.49 .8 25.13 .9 84.03 9 52.91 9 38.61 .9 30.40 .9 25.0<-. 12. 83.33 19 52.63 26- 38.46 33. 30.30 40. 25.00 1 82.64 1 52..H6 i 38.31 .1 30.21 .1 24.94 2 81.97 2 52.08 2 38.17 .2 '<0.12 t 24.88 .3 81.30 3 51.81 3 38.02 Js 30.03 .9i 24.81 .4 80.65 4 51.55 4 37.88 .4 29.94 A 24.75 .6 80.00 .5 51.28 5 37.74 .5 29.85 .5 24.69 .6 79.37 .6 51.02 .6 37.59 .6 29.76 .6 24.63 7 78.74 .7 50.76 7 37.45 .7 29.67 .7 24.57 8 78.12 .8 50.51 .8 37.31 .8 29.59 .8 24.51 .9 77.52 .9 50.25 .9 37.17 .9 29.50 .9 24.45 la 76.92 80 50.00 27 37.04 34. 29.41 41. 24.39 .1 76.34 .1 49.75 36.90 .1 29.33 .1 24.33 .2 75.76 .2 49.50 2 36.77 .2 29.24 o 24.27 .3 76.19 .8 49.26 '.Z 36.63 .3 29.15 ^3 24.21 .4 74.63 .4 49.02 A 36.50 .4 29.07 .4 24.16 ,5 74.07 .5 48.78 .5 36.36 .5 28.99 .5 24.10 .6 73.63 .6 48.54 .6 36.23 .6 28.90 .6 24.04 .7 72.99 .7 46.81 7 36.10 .7 28.82 .7 23.98 .8 72.46 .6 48.08 ."8 35.97 .8 28.74 .8 23.92 .6 71.94 .9 47.85 ■' 35.84 .9 28.65 .9 23.87 Practical Cottox Calculations n Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in gram* of 120 yards or I sUein, i2Cyds Numbfr 120yds Number I20yd8 Number 120yd6 Number 120ydc Number weigh of weigb of weigh of weigh of weigh of grains. Yarn. graius. Yarn. grains. Yarn gr&ins. Yarn graioE. \btx> 42. 23.81 49. 20.41 56. 17.86 63 15.87 70. 14.20 .1 23.75 .1 20.37 .1 17.83 .1 15.85 .1 14.27 .2 23.70 .2 20.33 .2 17.79 .2 15.83 .2 14.2:. .3 23.G4 .3 20.28 .3 17.76 .3 15.80 .3 14.22 A 23.58 .4 20.24 .4 17.73 .4 15.77 .4 14.20 .5 23.53 .6 20.20 .5 17.70 .5 15.75 .5 14.18 .6 23.47 .6 20.16 .6 17.67 .6 16,72 .6 14.16 .7 23.42 .7 20.12 .7 17.64 .7 15.70 .7 14.14 .8 23.36 .8 20.08 .8 17.61 .8 15.67 .8 14.12 .9 23.31 .9 20.04 .9 17.57 .9 15.65 .9 14.10 43. 23.26 50. 20.00 57. 17.54 64. 15.62 71. 14.08 .1 23.20 .1 19.96 .1 17.51 .1 15.60 .1 14.06 .2 23.15 .2 19.92 .2 17.48 .2 15.58 .2 14.04 .3 23.09 .3 19.88 .3 17.45 .3 15.55 .3 14.03 .4 23.04 .4 19.84 .4 17.42 .4 15.53 .4 14.01 .5' 22.99 .5 19.80 .6 17.39 .5 15.50 .5 13.99 .6 22.94 .6 19.76 .6 ; 17.36 .6 15.48 .6 13.97 .7 22.88 .7 19.72 .7 1 17.33 .7 15.46 .7 13.95 .8 22.83 .8 19.69 .8 17.30 .8 15.43 .8 13.93 ,9 22.78 .9 19.65 •G 17.27 .9 15.41 .9 13.91 44. 22.73 61. 19.61 68. 17.24 66. 15.38 7». 13.89 .1 22.68 .1 19.57 .1 17.21 .1 15.36 .1 13.87 2 22.62 .2 19.53 .2 17.18 .2 1 15.34 ,2 13.85 .3 22.57 .3 19.49 .3 17.15 .3 ' 15.31 .3 13.83 .4 22.52 .4 19.46 .4 17.12 .4 15.29 ,4 13.81 .5 22.47 ■ .5 19.42 .6 17.09 .5 15.27 .5 13.79 .6 22.42 .6 19.38 .6 17.06 .6 16.24 ,6 13.77 .7 22.37 .7 19.34 .7 17.04 .7 15.22 ,7 13.76 .8 22.32 .8 19.31 .8 17.01 .8 15.20 .8 13.74 .9 22.27 .9 19.27 .9 16.98 .9 15,17 ,9 13.72 45. 22.22 .V^. 19.23 6t> 16.95 66 15.15 73 13.70 .1 22.17 .1 19.19 .1 16.92 .1 15.13 .1 13.68 2 22.12 ,2 19.16 .2 16.89 .2 15.11 .2 13.66 .3 22.08 .3 19.12 .3 16.86 .3 15.08 ,3 13.64 .4 22.03 .4 19.08 .4 16.84 .4 15.06 .4 13.62 .5 21.98 .5 19.05 .5 16.81 .5 15.04 ,5 13.61 .H 21.9.T .6 19.01 .6 16.78 .6 15.02 .6 13.59 7 21.88 .7 18.98 .7 16.75 .7 14.99 .7 13.57 .8 21.83 .8 18.9^ .8 16.72 .8 14.97 .8 13.65 .9 21.79 .9 18.90 .9 16-.6ij .9 14.95 9 13.53 46 21.74 53. 18.87 60. 16.67 67. 14.93 7» 1.T51 ,1 21.6V .1 18.83 .1 16.64 .1 14.90 .1 13.50 2 21.65 2 18.80 .2 16.61 .2 14.88 .2 13.48 .3 21.60 .3 18.76 .3 16.5i? .3 14.86 .3 13.46 .4 J1.56 .4 18.73 .4 16.5(1 .4 14.84 .4 13.44 .p. .'1.51 .5 ^8.69 .5 16.53 .5 14.81 .6 13.42 .t; n.46 .6 18.66 .6 16.5( .6 14.79 .6 13.40 7 21.41 .7 18.62 .7 16.47 .7 14.77 ,7 13.39 .8 21.37 .8 18.59 .8 16.45 .8 14.75 .8 13.37 .9 21.32 .9- 18.5;i .9 16.42 .9 14.73 .9 13.35 47 21.28 64. 18.52 61. 16.39 68. 14.71 75 13.33 .1 21.23 .1 18.4H .1 16.37 .1 14.68 .1 13.32 .2 21.19 .2 18.45 2 16.34 .2 14.66 .2 13..30 .3 21.14 .3 18.42 '.3 16.31 .3 14.64 .3 13.28 .4 21.10 .4 18.38 A 16.29 .4 14.62 .4 13.26 .5 21.05 .5 18.35 .5 16.26 .5 14.60 .5 13.25 .6 21.01 .6 18.32 6 16.23 .6 14.58 .6 13,23 .7 20.96 .7 18.28 7 16.21 .7 14.56 .7 13^21 .8 20.92 .8 18.25 .8 16.19 .8 14.53 .8 13.19 .9 20.88 .9 18.21 9 16.16 .9 14.51 .9 13.18 «tv 20.83 56. 18.18 6^ 16.13 Ub 14.49 76 13.16 .1 20.79 .1 18.15 .i 16.10 .1 14.47 .1 13 14 .2 20.75 .2 18.12 .2 16.08 .2 14.45 .2 13.12 .3 20.70 i 18.08 .3 16.05 .3 14.43 .3 13.11 .4 20.66 18.05 .4 16.03 .4 14.41 .4 13.09 .5 20.62 .5 18.02 .5 16.00 .6 14.^9 .5 13.07 .6 1 20.57 .6 17.99 6 15.97 .6 14.37 .6 13.05 .7 20.58 .7 17.95 7 15.95 7 14.35 .7 13.04 .8 20.49 .8 17.92 .8 15.92 .8 14.33 .8 13.02 .» 20.45 .9 17.89 9 15.90 .9 14.31 .9 IS.OO 18 Pkactical Cottox Calcui.ations Table fo' numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight in grains of 120 yards o' i sUein IWydi. Number 120.> d3 Nuuibvr I20>d.- Nun.l.tT 120>d3 Number l-.iOvd» Number weigh of weisjh of «eiph of weigh ol «,;isii of griias . Yarn 12.9!) tiraios Yarn graioa Yarn (,'raiD3 Varn trains. Yaro 77. 84. 11.90 91. 10.90 98. 10.20 t0.'>. 9.52 .1 12.97 .1 11.89 .1 10.98 .1 10.19 .1 9.51 .2 12.95 .2 11.88 .2 10.90 .2 10.18 .2 9.51 .3 1 12.94 1 .3 11.80 .3 10.95 .3 10.17 .3 9.50 .4 12.1)2 1 .4 11.85 .4 10.94 .4 10.10 A 9.49 .5 12.9() .5 11.83 .5 10.93 .5 10.15 .6 9.48 .U 12.H9 .0 11.82 .6 10.92 .6 10.14 .0 9.47 .7 12.87 .7 11. SI .7 10.91 .7 10.13 .7 9.46 .8 12.85 .8 11.79 .8 10.89 .8 10.12 .8 9.45 .9 12.H4 .v> 11.78 .9 10.88 .9 10.11 .9 9.44 78. 1 2.82 85 11.70 92. 10.87 99. 10.10 106. 9.43 .1 12.80 .1 11.75 .1 10.80 ;i 10.09 .1 9.43 .2 12.7!) .2 11.74 .2 10.85 .2 10.08 .2 9.42 .3 12.77 3 11.72 .3 10.83 .3 10.07 .3 9.41 .4 12.76 .4 11.71 .4 10.82 .4 1 0.00 .4 9.40 .5 12.74 .5 11.70 .5 10.81 .5 10.06 .5 9.39 .6 12.72 12.71 .0 11.08 .0 10.80 .0 10.04 .0 9.38 .7 .7 11.07 7 10.79 .7 10.03 .7 9.37 ; .8 12.09 .8 11. 0(! .8 10.78 .8 10.02 .8 9.36 .9 12.07 <4 11.04 <> 10.70 9 10.01 9 9.36 79. 12.00 86 11.03 93. 10.75 100. 10.00 107. 9.36 .1 12.04 .1 11.01 .1 10.74 .1 9.99 .1 934 .2 12.03 .2 11.00 .2 10.73 2 9.98 .2 933 .3 12.61 .3 11.59 3 10.72 .3 9.97 .3 9.32 .4 12.59 .4 11.67 .4 10.71 .4 9.90 .4 9.31 .6 12.58 .5 11.50 .5 10.70 •P 9.95 .6 9.30 .6 12.50 .6 11.65 .6 10.68 M 9.94 .0 9.29 ^ .7 12.55 .7 11.53 .7 10.67 .7 9.93 .7 9.29 .8 12.53 .8 11.52 .8 10.60 .8 9.92 .8 9'.28 .9 12.52 .9 11.61 9 10.65 .9 9.91 9 927 80. 1250 87. 11.49 94. 10.64 101. 9.90 108. 9.26 .1 12.48 .1 11.48 .1 10.63 .1 9.89 .1 9.26 12.47 .2 11.47 .2 10.62 .2 9.88 .2 9-24 '.3 12.45 is 11.45 .3 10.60 .3 9.87 .3 9.23 .4 12.44 .4 11.44 .4 10.59 .4 9.86 .4 9.23 .6 12.42 .5 11.43 .5 10.58 .5 9.85 .6 9.22 .« 12.41 .0 11.42 .0 10.57 .6 9.84 .6 9.21 .7 12.39 .7 11.40 .7 10.56 .7 9.83 .7 9.20 .8 12.38 .8 11.39 .8 10.55 .8 9.82 .8 9.19 .9 12.30 9 11.38 9 10.54 9 9.81 .9 9.18 81 12.35 88 11.30 95. 10.53 102. 9.80 109. 9.17 .1 12.33 1 11.35 1 10.52 .1 9.79 .2 9.16 ,2 12.32 .2 11.34 2 10.50 .2 9.78 .4 9.14 .3 12.30 .3 1 1 .33 .3 10.49 .3 9.78 .0 9.12 .4 12.29 .4 11.31 4 10.48 .4 9.77 .8 9.11 .6 12.27 .6 11.30 .5 10.47 .5 9.70 110. 9.09 .6 12.25 6 11.29 .0 10.46 6 9.75 .2 9.07 7 12.24 .7 11.27 7 10.45 .7 9.74 .4 9.00 .8 12.22 .8 1 1 .20 .8 10.44 .8 9.73 .6 9.04 .9 12.21 9 11.25 10.43 .9 9.72 .8 9.03 83- 1220 89 11.24 96 10.42 103 9.71 111. 9.01 .1 12.18 1 11.22 .1 10.41 .1 9.70 .2 8.99 .2 12.17 11.21 .2 10.40 .2 9.09 .4 8.98 .3 12.15 .3 11.20 .3 10.38 .3 9.08 .6 8.90 .4 12.14 .4 11.19 .4 10.37 .4 9.07 .8 8.94 .5 12.12 .6 11.17 .5 10.30 .6 9.06 112. 8.93 .6 1211 .6 11.10 .6 10.35 .6 9.65 .2 8.91 .7 12.09 .7 11.15 .7 10.34 .7 9.64 .4 8.90 .8 12.08 .8 11.14 .8 10.33 .8 9.63 .6 8.88 .9 12.06 9 11.12 .9 10.32 .9 9.02 .8 8.87 S3- 12.05 90. 11.11 97 10.31 104. 9.02 113. 8,85 .1 12.03 .1 11.10 .1 10.30 .1 9.61 .2 8.83 .2 12.02 11.09 .2 10.29 .2 9.00 .4 8.82 .3 12.00 .3 11.07 .3 10.28 .3 9.59 .6 8.80 .4 11.99 .4 11.06 .4 10.27 .4 9.58 .8 8.79 .6 11.98 .5 11.05 .5 10.26 .5 9.57 114. 8.77 .6 11.96 .6 11.04 .0 10.25 .6 9.50 .2 8.70 .7 11.95 .7 11.03 .7 10.24 .7 9.55 4 8.74 .8 11.93 .8 11.01 .8 10.22 .8 9.54 .6 8.73 .9 11.92 .9 11.00 .9 10.21 .9 9.53 .8 8.71 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 19 Table for numbering Cotton Yarn by the weight m grains o* l20 yards or I skein I20yda Numb«r I20yd3 Numbei I20yd8 Numbei I20ycl3 Number 120.vds Numbei weigh of weigh of weigh of weiKh of wflgh of grains. Yaro graias. Yarn. griuo3. Yarn graiDii, Yarn grains. Yarn. 115. 8.70 140. 7.14 180. 5.56 s.io 4.00 400. 2.50 .2 8.68 .5 7.12 181. 5.52 252. 3.97 405. 2.47 .4 8.67 141. 7.09 182. 5.49 254. 3.94 410. 2.44 .6 8.65 .5 7.07 183. 5.4r. 256. 3.91 415. 2.41 .8 8.64 142. 7.04 184. 5.43 258. 3.88 420. 2.38 116. 8.62 .5 7.02 185. 5.41 260. 3.85 425. 2.35 .2 8.61 143. 6.99 136, 5.38 262. 3.82 430. 2.36 .4 8.59 .5 6.97 187. 5.35 264. 3.79 435. 2.30 .6 8.58 144. 6.94 188. 5.32 266. 3.76 440. 2.27 .8 8.56 .5 6.92 189. 5.29 268. 3.73 445. 2.25 117. 8.65 113. 6.90 190. 5.26 370. 3.70 450. 2.22 .2 8.53 .5 6.87 1-Jl. 5.24 272. 3.68 455. 2.20 A 8.52 146. 6.85 192. 5.21 274. 3.65 460. 2.17 .6 8.50 .5 6.83 193. 5.18 276. 3.62 465. 2.15 .8 8.49 147. 6.80 194. 5.16 278. 3.60 470. 2.13 118. 8.47 .5 6.78 195. 5.13 280. 3.67 475. 2.11 .2 8.46 148. 6.76 196. 5.1U 282. 3.55 480. 2.08 .4 8.45 .5 6.73 197. 5.08 284. 3.52 485, 2.06 .6 8.43 149. 6.71 198 5.05 286. 3.50 490. 2.04 .3 8.42 .5 6. 69 199. 6.03 288. :?.47 495. 2.02 119. 8.40 150. 6.67 300 5. 00 390. 3.45 500. 2.00 .2 8.39 .5 6.64 201. 4.98 292. 3.42 505. 1.08 .4 8.38 151. 6.02 202. 4.95 294. 3.40 510. 1.96 .6 8.36 .5 6.60 203. 4.93 296. 3.38 515. 1.94 .8 8.35 152 6.58 204 4.90 298 3.36 520. 1.92 120. 8.33 .5 6.56 205. 4.88 300. 3.33 625. 1.90 .2 8.33 153. 6.54 206, 4.85 302. 3.31 530. 1.89 .4 8.31 5 6.51 207. 4.83 304. 3.29 535. 1.87 .6 8.29 154. 6.4y 208, 4.81 306. 3.27 540. 1.85 .8 8.28 5 6.47 209. 4.78 308. 3.25 545. 1.83 191. 8.26 155. 6.45 810. 4.76 310 3.23 550. 1.82 .4 8.24 .6 6.43 211. 4.74 312 3.21 555. 1.80 .6 8.22 153. 6.41 212. 4.72 314. 3.18 560. 1.79 .8 8.21 .5 6.39 213. 4.69 316. 3.17 565. 1.77 122. 8.20 157. 6.37 214. 4.67 318. 3.14 570. 1.75 .5 8.16 .5 6.35 215. 4.65 320. 3.12 575. 1.74 123. 8.13 158. 6.33 216. 4.63 322 3.11 580. 1.72 5 8.10 5 6.31 217. 4.61 324.' 3.09 585. 1.71 124. 8.06 159. 6.29 218. 4.50 320. 3.07 590. 1.69 .5 8.03 5 6.27 219. 4.57 328. 3.05 595. 1.68 125. 8.00 160. 6.25 230 4.55- 3.SO 3.03 000. 1.67 .5 7.97 5 6.23 221 4.52 332. 3.01 (JIO. 1.64 126. 7.94 161. 6.21 222 4.50 334. 2.99 620. 1.61 .5 7.91 6 6.19 223 4.48 336. 2.98 630. 1.59 127. 7.87 162. 6.17 224. 4.4(^ 338. 2.96 640. 1.56 .5 7.84 .5 6.15 225 4.44 340. 2.94 050. 1.54 128. 7.81 163. 6.13 226 4.42 342. 2.92 660. 1.52 .5 7.73 5 6.12 227 4.41 344. 2.91 670. 1.49 129. 7.75 164. 6.10 228. 4.39 346 2.89 680. 1.47 .5 7.72 .5 6.08 229 4.37 348 2.87 690. 1.45 130. 7.C9 165. 6.06 330. 4.35 3.50 2.86 700. 1.43 5 7.66 .5 6.04 231. 4.33 352 2.84 710. 1.41 131. 7.03 166. 6.02 232 4.31 354. 2.82 720. 1.39 .5 7.00 .5 6.01 233. 4.29 35ti. 2.81 730. 1.37 132. 7..'-.8 167. 5.99 234 4.27 358 2.79 740. 1.35 .5 7.55 .5 5.97 235. 4.26 3(>0. 2.78 750. 1.33 133. 7.53 168. 5.95 236. 4.24 362. 2.76 760. 1.32 .6 7.49 .5 6.93 237. 4.22 364. 2.75 770. 1.30 134. 7.46 169. 6.92 238. 4.20 366 2.73 780. 1.28 .5 7.43 5 5.00 239. 4.18 368 2.72 790. 1.27 lys. 7.41 170 5.88 340. 4,17 370 2.70 800. 1.25 A 7.33 ITl. 5.35 241. 4.15 372. 2.69 820. 1.22 13G. 7.35 172. 5.81 242. 4.13 374. 2.67 840. 1.19 .5 7.33 173. 5.78 243. 4.12 376. 2.66 860. 1.16 137. 7.30 174. 5.75 244. 4.10 373. 2.65 880. 1.14 .5 7.27 175. 5.71 245. 4.08 380. 2r.3 900. 1.11 138. 7.25 176, 5.68 246. 4.07 382. 2 ''i2 925. 1.08 .5 7.22 177. 5.65 247. 4.05 385. 2!60 950. 1.05 139. 7. 19 178. 5.62 248. 4.03 390. 2.56 075. 1.03 .5 7.17 179. 5 '>9 240 4 1? 395. 2.53 1000. 1.00 20 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs SYSTEMS OF NUMBERING YARNS OP VARIOUS MATERIALS The following systems, where higher counts indicate finer yarns, are used in the United States: Raw silk = number of yards per ounce. Spun silk = 840 yards per hank. Cotton = 840 yards per hank. Worsted = 560 yards per hank. Woolen = 1600 yards per run. Woolen = 300 yards per cut. Linen = 300 yards per cut. The cut system of woolen counts Is principally used in the vicinity of Philadelphia. The yarn calculations applying to cotton will also apply to any of the above systems, using their respective standard leng-ths instead of 840. EQUIVALENT COUNTS To Find Equivalent Counts of Yarn from One System to Another. Rule 4. Multiply the given counts of yarn by its standard length and divide by the standard length in the system desired. Example. What counts of worsted is equal to a 30's cotton yarn? 30's counts X 840 cotton standard • = 45's counts, Ans. 560 worsted standard Short Methods to Find Equivalent Counts of Yarn in Woolen, Worsted, Linen, Raw Silk, or Metric System of Counting Cotton to a Given United States Cotton Yam. .5^5 X counts of cotton yarn = woolen counts, run system. Practical Cotton^ Calculations 21 1.5 X counts of cotton yarn = worsted counts, hank system. 2.S X counts of cotton yarn = linen counts, cut system. 2.8 X counts of cotton yarn z=:: woolen counts, cut system. 52.5 X counts of cotton yarn = raw silk counts, yds. per oz. system. 1.69 X counts of cotton yarn =: metric system of numbering cotton. Short Methods to Find Cotton Counts Equiva- lent to Any Given Counts of Woolen, Worsted, Linen, Raw Silk or the Metric System of Counting Cotton Yarn. 1.905 X counts of woolen yarn, run system. .357 X counts of woolen yarn, cut system. .357 X counts of linen yarn, cut system. .666 X counts of worsted yarn, hank system. .019 X counts raw silk yarn, yds. per oz. system. .59 X counts of cotton in metric system = cotton counts in United States system. The preceding constants are obtained as follows: 840 -~- 1600 = .5:25 for woolen, run system. 560 =: 1.5 for worsted, hank system. 300 = 2.8 for linen and woolen, cut system. 16 (ozs. per lb.) = 52.5 for raw silk, yds. per oz. system. 1600 -~ 840 = 1.905 for woolen, run system. 300 -r- 840 = .357 for linen and woolen, cut system. 840 = .666 for worsted, hank system. 840 = .019 for raw silk, yds. per oz. system. 840 840 840 560 16 22 Practical Cottox Calculations RAW SILK CALCULATIONS Owing to the growing use of silk yarns in the finer grades of fabrics composed for the greater part of cot- ton, the relative silk and cotton standards are here in- dicated. When a problem presents itself in which silk yarns have to be considered, first obtain the equivalent cotton counts and proceed according to the rules regarding cotton yarns and fabrics. In addition to the system of numbering raw silk by the number of yards per ounce, Avhere higher numbers indicate finer yarns, there are two other systems used in America and Great Britain. These are known as the dram system and the denier system. They diflfer from the cotton and spun silk systems in having higher numbers indicate coarser yarns. The dram system is based on the weight in drams of 1000 yards of yarn. For example, a 4-dram silk means that a length of 1000 yards of yarn weighs 4 drams. There are several so-called denier systems, but the one recognized by the New York and London condition- ing houses, and one extensively used in France, is based on the weight in deniers of a skein of 47G metres, or 520.56 yards. For example a 19/21 denier raw silk means that a skein 520.56 yards long weighs from 19 to 21 deniers. For calculation purposes a 19/21 yarn would be considered a 20's yarn. The number 520 is usually used instead of 520.56. A denier is a small weight equal to .8196 of a grain, or .02997 of a dram. The. relative values of the dram, denier and *rain standards of weights are as follo^vs: Practical Cotton Calculations 23 1 dram = 33 1-3 deniers= 27.34 grains. 16 drams = 533 1-3 deniers = 43T.5 grains = 1 oz. 2bQ drains = 8533 deniers =■ 7000 grains = 16 ozs. = 1 lb. Short Methods to Find Equivalent Counts in the Dram Silk, Denier Silk and Cotton Systems. 304.76 -^ dram silk counts == cotton counts. o'2^2 -f- denier silk counts = cotton counts. 304.76 -^ cotton counts = dram silk counts. 5-2^-2 -^ cotton counts = denier silk counts. denier silk counts ^- 17.366 (17 1-3) = dram silk counts^ dram silk counts X 17.366 (17 1-3) = denier silk counts. The preceding constants are obtained as follows: 256 grains X 1000 yards 840 yards 8533 deniers X 520 yards 304.76 840 yards = 5282 1000 yards: 1 dram ::520.56 yards: 17.366 deniers. If 1000 yards in the dram system weighs 1 dram for No. Ts yarn, 52Q.5Q yards in the denier system will weigh 17.366 deniers for the same counts. 17 1-3 is usually used instead of 17.366. The words "organzine" and ''tram,'' used in connection with silk, refer to warp and filling yarn respectively. Organzine silk usually contains more fibres than tram silk, and is harder twisted. 24 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs COUNTS OF TWISTED OR PLY AND CABLE YARNS When single yarns are twisted together to form a ply- yarn, the result is usually a heavier yarn than the counts divided by the number of ends twisted together, owing to the contraction in twisting. This can be proved by twisting two yarns together to a certain length, weighing them, and comparing the weight with the weight of single yarns of a simlar length of the original counts. For calculation purposes, however, a cotton ply yarn composed of two or more yarns of equal counts is re- garded as being the size of the single yarns divided by the number of strands; thus a yarn composed of two strands of 60's twisted together is considered equal to one of 30\s single; a yarn composed of three strands of 60's is considered equal to one of i^O's single, but the more twist there is put into a yarn the more it will contract in length and the coarser will be the actual counts. ~ Ply yarns which are composed of single strands of equal size of yarn are indicated by the number of strands which are twisted together and the counts of the single- yarns written afterwards; thus :3/40's means two yarns of 40's twisted together, 3/100's means three yarns of lOO's twisted together. These yarns would be equal to single yarns composed of 30's and 33.33's, respectively. Cable yarns are composed of two or more ply yarns twisted together to form a fancy yarn. A 4/3/50's cable yarn would be composed of four ends of :?/50's twisted together, making in all eight ends of 50's yarn, and would be equal to a single yarn of 614 counts. Unless used for fancy yarns for special purposes, two single yarns of unequal counts are seldom or never Practical Cottox Calculations 25 used, as equal single yarns combined make the best ply yarns. To Find the Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to a Ply Yam Composed of 2 Single Yams of Unequal Counts. Rule 5. Divide the product of the txio caunts by their sum. Example. Wliat counts of a single yarn is equal to a yarn composed of 30's and 30's twisted together? 30- X 20 600 — = = 12"s counts, Ans. 30 + ~u oi! See table on page 120. To Find Counts of a Single Yarn Equal to a Ply Yarn Composed of 2 or More Yams of Unequal Counts. Rule 6. Divide the highest counts by itself and by each of the tower counts in succession; add results and divide into the highest counts. Example. What would be equal in a single yarn to a ply yarn composed of 50's, 80's and lOO's? 100 -f- 100 r=: 1.00 100-^- 80 = 1.2) 100 -- 50 = 2.00 4.25 00- - 4.25 = 23.53's counts, Ans. To Find Counts of a Yam to Twist with a Given Yam to Produce a Required Ply Yarn. Rule 7, Multiply the required counts by the given counts and divide bi/ their diference. 26 Practical Cottox Calculations Example. What counts of yarn is required to twist I with a 30's to make a p]y yarn equal to a l:2's? 30 X 12 360 = = 20's counts, Ans. 30—12 18 See table on page 120. To Find Weigfht of Each Counts of Yam Re- quired to Make a Given Weight of Ply Yarn when Yams of Unequal Counts Are TA\isted Together. First, when only -2 counts are twisted together. Rule 8. Divide the highest counts by itself and by the other counts in succession. Add the quotients and divide info the total wei(/ht. The result will be the weight of the highest counts. Deduct the latter from the total iceight to find the weight of the other counts. Example. It is desired to make 75 lbs. of ply yarn composed of 80's and 60's. What weight of each is re- quired ? 80 -- 80 r= 1 80-^-60=1 1-3 21-3 75 lbs. -^2 1-3 = 32.14 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 75 — 32.14 =1 42.86 lbs. of 60's, A ns. If it is required to find the weight when more than two varns are used the above rule will have to be modified. Practical Cotton Calculations 27 Example. It is required to make 100 lbs. of ply yarn composed of lOO's, 80's and 50's. What weight of each is required? 100 -f- 100=1 100-^ 80=1.25 100 -V- 50 = 2 4.25 100 lbs. -^ i.:25 = 23.529 lbs. of lOO's, ^n5. 23.529 X 1.25 = 29.411 lbs. of 80's, Ans. 23.529 X 2 = 47.058 lbs. of 50's, Ans. 99.998 lbs. total weight. Rules 5 to 8 are only approximately correct because when yarns of unequal counts are twisted together, the coarser yarn has a tendency to retain a straight line and deflect tlie fine yarn. For a given length of ply yarn it would therefore be necessary to use a longer length of the fine than the coarse. Rules 5 to 8 will apply in all the systems, except spun silk, mentioned on page 20. To Find Weight of Each Kind of Warp Yarn Required in a Group of Warps of Equal Length when Number of Ends of Each Kind, Counts and Total Weight Are Known. Rule 9. Divide the number of ends of each counts by its own counts. Add quotients. The result is to the total weight as each quotient is to the weight required of the respective counts. 28 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs Example. A set of warps are arranged as fallows: 1st, 144 ends of 3/54's; 2d, 88 ends of 4/32's; 3d, 2400 ends of 50's. What weight of each warp is required to make a total weight of 100 lbs., provided the warps are all the same length? 144 ends of 3/24's = 432 ends of 24's 88 ends of 4/32's = 352 ends of 32's 432 ends -^ 24's counts = 18 352 ends -^ 32's counts =: 11 2400 ends -f- 50's counts = 48 7t 77 77 77 100 lbs. ::18 :23.38 lbs. of 24's, Ans. 100 lbs. ::11 :14.28 lbs. of 32's, Ans. 100 lbs. ::48 :62.34 lbs. of 50's, Ans. 100.00 lbs. total weiffht. COUNTS OF SPUN SILK PLY YARNS Spun silk is counted like cotton when in the single yarn, but when writing the counts of ply silk the first number indicates the actaal counts; thus 30/2. or 30's 2 fold, means two strands of 60's. An equivalent to this in cotton would be written 2/60's. 30/3, or 30's 3 fold in spun silk means three strands of 90's, whilst 3/30"s in cotton means three strands of 30's. In some mills cotton ply yarn counts are written with the number of strands last, thus 30/3, which means that it is equal to a lO's, but as this method conflicts with the silk method it is not as generally used as the method previously explained, i. e., writing the nmnber of ply first. Practical Cottox CAi.crLATioxs 29 TO FIND COUNTS, LENGTH OR WEIGHT OF COTTON YARN To Find Counts of Cotton Yarn when Length and Weight Are Known. '"Rule 10. Divide the length by the iceight and by 840. Example. If 126000 yards of yarn weigh 6 lbs., what are the counts? 1:26000 yards = ;25\s counts, Ans. 6 lbs. X 840 To Find Length of Cotton Yarn when Counts and Weight Are Known. '•^Rule 11. Multiply the counts by the weight and by 840. Exampij:. What length of yarn is contained in 6 lbs. of 25's yarn? 25's counts X 6 lbs. X 840 = 1:26000 yds., Ans. To Find Weight of Cotton Yarn when Counts and Length Are Known. '•^Rule 12. Divide the length by the counts and by S4O. Example. What is the weight of 1;?6000 yards of 25's cotton yarn? 126000 yards = 6 lbs., .4 715. 25's counts X 840 30 Practical Cottox Calculations The three preceding rules, 10, 11 and 12, may be summarized in — Formula A. To Find Counts, Length or Weight of Cotton Yarn when the Other Factors Are Known 1 Length in yards J Weight in lbs. are X equal ^ Counts to j X j 840 Rule. Divide the product of the remaining items of the group containing the required item into the product of the other group. TO FIND WEIGHT, COUNTS OR NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN To Find Weight of Yarn when Counts and Number of Hanks Are Known. Rule 13. Divide the number of hanks by the counts. Example. What is the weight of 840 hanks of llO's yarn ? 840 hanks -v- llO's counts = 7.63 lbs., Ans. To Find Counts of Yam when Weight and Number of Hanks Are Known. Rule 14. Divide the nuynber of hanks by the weight. Example. 260 hanks of cotton yarn weigh 15 lbs. What are the counts? 260 hanks -r- 15 lbs. = 17 1-3's counts, Ans. Practical Cotton Calculations 31 To Find Number of Hanks when Weight and Counts Are Known. Rule 15. Multiply the iveight by the counts. Example. How many hanks are there in 20 lbs. of 60's yarn? 20 lbs. X 60's counts r=: 1200 hanks, Ans. The three preceding rules, 13, 14 and 15, may be summarized in — Formula B. To Find Counts, Weight or Number of Hanks when the Other Factors Are Known. Counts r are ^ X ^ equal Y Number of hanks. Weight in lbs. I to -' ICule. Divide the 'product of the remaimng items of the group containing the required item into the product of the other group. For other data regarding yarns see "Twists Per Inch, Diameters and' Breaking Weights." BEAM YARN AND WARP CALCULA- TIONS It is intended in the following rules to cover as nearly as possible all calculations required for ascertaining the weight, counts, average counts, number of ends, length and numiber of hanks of warp yarns. To Find Counts of Yam on a Beam when Length, Weight and Number of Ends Are Known. *Rule 16. Multiply the mimber of ends by the length and divide by 8^0 and the weight in pounds. 32 Practical Cotton Calculations Example. 1000 ends on a Wcirp 1176' yards long- weigh 40 lbs. What are the counts? 1000 ends X 1176 yards z=35's counts, Ans. 840 X 40 lbs. Another method to find counts of yarn on a beam is as follows: Take off 1:20 ends each one yard long, or 240 ends each y, yard long, weigh them and divide the weight in grains into 1000. There would be le^s liability to error if 840 ends each one yard long were taken and weighed, and the weight in grains divided into 7000. This method is not as good as Rule Ki when the items dealt with there are known. To Find Weight of Yarn on a Beam when Length, Number of Ends and Counts are Known. '^Rule 17. M'U'ltlpIy the number of ends by the length and divide by 84O and the counts. Example. A warp 1176 yards long contains 1000 ends of 35's cotton yarn. What is the weight? 1000 ends X 1176 vards ^ —40 lbs., Ans. 840 X 35's counts Rule 17 may be applied when desiring To Find Weight of Warp Yarn in a Piece cf Cloth but it must be understood that the slashing length, not the cloth length, must be taken. The table on the following page indicates the num- Practicai, Cottox CalculatioxS in ber of yards of cotton yarn per pound, in counts rang- ing from 1 to -250. This will be found useful when dealing with problems in which the product of 840 and- the counts, as in the preceding example, has to be con- sidered. Cottox Yards per Cotton Yards per Cotton Yards peu Counts. PorxD. Counts. Pound, Counts. 78 Pound. 1 S40 35 29,400 65,.520 1'2 1.2(i0 36 30,240 79 66.360 2 1.680 37 31,080 80 67.200 oj^ 2.100 38 31.920 82 68,880 8" 2,520 39 • 32,760 84 70.560 0*2 2.940 40 33,600 86 72,240 ■I 3.3ti0 41 34,440 88 73,920 f2 3.780 42 35,280 90 75.600 "1 4. -200 43 3t;,120 92 77,280 ■->^2 4.620 44 36,960 94 78.960 {'■> 5,010 45 37,800 96 80,640 t'- 5,460 46 38,640 98 82.320 7 5.880 47 39,480 100 84.000 7V2 6,300 48 40,320 105 88,200 s 6.720 49 41.160 110 92,400 ^*2 7.140 50 42.000 115 96) .600 9 7,560 51 42,,^0 120 100,800 9i-> 7.980 52 43,680 125 105.(100 10 " S.4(X) 53 44, .520 130 109.200 u 9.240 .54 45,360 135 113,400 i2 lo.aso ■55 46,200 140 117,600 13 10,920 .56 47.040 145 121,800 14 11,760 57 47.880 1,50 126.000 15 12,600 58 48.720 1.55 130,200 Iti 13,440 59 49.560 IGO 134,400 17 14,280 60 50,400 165 13S.60O If^ 15.120 61 51.240 170 142,800 19 15.960 62 .52.080 175 147,000 20 16,800 63 52.920 180 151,200 ■21 17.640 64 53,760 1.85 1,55,400 22 18,480 (i5 51,600 190 1,59,600 23 19,320 (>6 55,440 195 163,800 24 20.160 67 ,56,2,80 200 168,000 2,5 21 xm (i8 57,120 205 172,200 26 21 .,840 69 57,960 210 176,400 27 22,680 70 ,58.800 215 180,600 2« 23,520 71 .59.640 220 184,800 2<) 24,360 72 60,480 225 189.000 30 25.200 73 (U,.320 230 193,200 31 2»i,040 74 62,160 235 197,400 32 26,880 75 63,00(3 240 201 .600 33 27,720 76 63.840 245 205,800 84 28, ,560 77 64.680 250 210,000 34 Practical Cottox Calculations FINDING WEIGHT OF YARN ON BEAM^ IN THE LOOMS "When taking stock of the amount of yarn in the looms, it is customary for the overseer to figure the weight of a cut of yarn on each style made, by Rule 17. By ascertaining the number of cuts of yarn in the looms and multiplying by the weight per cut, the weight of yarn on the respective styles is obtained. Example. A style of goods is made with 2400 ends of 60's cotton yarn. o3 yards per cut (slashing length). It is required to find the weight of yarn per cut, and iilso for -20 cuts. By Rule IT— 2400 ends X oo yards =: 2.619 lbs, per cut, Ans. 840 X 60's counts 2.G19 lbs. of yarn per cut X 20 cuts=:o2.38 lbs. weight of 20 cuts, Ans. Some mills do not trouble to ascertain how many cuts of each style there are when taking stock, but assume eacli beam to be half full, and 'figure accord- ingly. This method, although perhaps serving the pur- pose, is not accurate unless the person who does the cal- culating accidentally guesses the total number of cuts of each style, which is not probable. To Find Length of Yarn on a Beam when Counts, Weight and Number of Ends Are Known. ''^Rule 18. jMnltiplij ihe counts by the weight and by 840, and divide by the number of ends. Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 35 Example. What is the leng-th of a cotton warp of 1000 ends of 3o's yarn if the weight is 40 pounds? 35's counts X 40 lbs. X 84-0 ^1176 yds., Ans. 1000 ends To Find Number of Ends on a Beam when Counts, Weight and Length Are Known. '•^Rule 19. Multiphj the counts by the iceight and by 840, and divide by the length. Example. What is the number of ends on a warp 1176 yards long, of 35's yarn, if the weight is 40 pounds? 3o's counts X ^0 lbs. X 840 rr: 1000 cuds, Ans. 1176 yards. The above rule is of a theoretical nature and will give only approximate results. The four preceding rules, 16 to 19, may be sum- marized in — Formula C. To Find Cotton Counts, Weight, Length or Number of Ends on a Beam. 840 X >. Weight in Pounds r Number of ends 1 are X - X 'i- = 1440 total dents in warp. 1440 — 16 dents for selvedges r= 1424 dents. 14-24 dents = '29 patterns -f 3-3 dents, 48 dents per pattern Ana. To Find Percentage of Size on Warp Yarns. Rule 27. Deduct the weirfhf of the yarn before i^hituj from the weight of the yarn after shing ; add two ciphers to the ansiver, or multiply by 100> and divide by the weiyht of the nnsized yarn. FiXA:\iPLE. A warp weighs 140 pound-; after sizing and 130 pounds before sizing. AVhat ]^ercentage of size has been added? 140—130 = 10; 10X100 = 1000. 1000 -f- 130 ■:= 7.69 i^eroentage of size, An.'i. To Find Weisfht of Warp, in Ounces, per Yard of Cloth. '•'Rule 28. Divide the number of en(U in the warp by .7?..7 and the counts. (840 yards ~ 16 ozs. = 52.5) Example. A warp contains 3200 ends of 60's yarn. What is the weight per yard, in ounces? 3200 ends = 1.016 ozs., ^ ??.'55 = 3.30 lbs. warp, A as. G lbs. — 3.S0 = J.IO lbs. fillina-, A ns. . ■ 43 Practical Cottox Calcui^vtions Example No, -2. A cut of cloth weighs 8 lbs. and contains 47% filling. What are the separate weights of filling and warp? 8 lbs. X .47 — 3.76 lbs. filling, A ns. 8 lbs. — 3.76 := 4.24 lbs. warp, Aug. To Find Weig^ht of Warp or Filling; Required per Day when Number of Yards per Pound, Production and ' o of Warp Are Known. Hule 31. Divide (he niDnber of i/anh per day by the number of yards per pound to find number of pounds of cloth per day. Multiply the number of lbs. per day by (he ^c of warp to find the weight of xcarp. Deduct the weiyht of the warp from the fofai weight to find the weight of the fUJing. This does not allow for waste, which mu^t he added. Example. A cloth 6iA yards ])er pound is produced from a loom at the rate of 39 yards per day. 55% of it is warp. What weight of warp and filling is required per day? 39 -^ 6Vo = 6 lbs. of cloth i)er day. 6 lbs. X .55 = 3.30 lbs. warp per day, Ans. 6 lbs. — 3.30 = x\70 His. filling per day, Anf<. Practical Cottox Calculation's 43 FILLING CALCULATIONS To Find Number of Hanks of Filling in a Piece of Cloth when Pick, Width in Reed and Cloth Length Are Known. *Rule 32. Multiphj the pick by the width of the icarp in the reed and the cloth length, and divide by S4O. See tables on pages 80 and 81. ExA3iPLE. A cloth is made 100 X 1-0, 33 inches wide and 50 yards long. How many hanks of filling does it contain? By Rule G3 a 100 sley cloth S2 inches wide would be woven 34 inches wide in the reed. 1-20 pick X 34 inches X 50 vards ^ = 24.2.S hanks of filling, 840 , To Find Length of Cloth that can be Woven with a Given Counts and Weight of Fill- ing when Width in Reed and Pick Are Known. '■'Rule 33. Multiply the counts by 84O and the weiyht, and divide by the pick and the width of the warp in the reed. ExA^iPi.E. 7. .5 lbs. of 70's filling is on hand to insert into a cloth to be woven 40 inches wide in the reed with 220 picks per inch. What length of cloth can be woven with it? 70's counts X 840 X T.5 lbs. -— rrr 50.11 Tards, Ans. 220 picks X 40 inches in reed 44 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs To Find Weight of Filling Required per Cut when Width in Reed, Pick, Cloth Length and Filling Counts Are Known. '■'Rule 34. Multlphf width in reed in inches hij pick and length of cloth in j/ardff, and divide 67 S^o and the counts. If the Aveig:ht in ounces N desired, multiply the result by 16. ExA3iPT.E. A cloth is desired 56 yards long-, with 2-20 picks of 70\s filling. The width in the reed is 40 inches. How many pounds of filling are required? 40 inches X --0 picks X ->6 yards = 8.38 Ib'^. A ns. 840 X 70's filling counts When estimating the weight of filling required for stop peg checks, the civerarie pick, not the ground pick, must be considered. To Find Weight of Each Separate Color of Filling in Ginghams, Tartans and Similar Check Patterns. *Rule 35. Miilliphi the total ireiyht of fillinf/ (See Rule 34) bi/ the number of picks per pattern of ths required color, and divide bij the total number of picks per pattern. ExA^iPLK. Supposing the pattern of the filling in the preceding example contains 4 picks of twist, 16 picks of l>lack and 2\ picks of white, liow many pounds of each color are required for each cut of cloth? Practical Cottox Calculations 45 4 + 16 -f- 24 zrr 44 picks per pattern. 8.38 X 4 =: ,7618 pounds twist, A ns. .44 8.38 X 16 44 8.38 X 24 44 3.0472 pounds black, Ans. : 4..5709 pounds white, Ans. Total, 8.3799 pounds. 1 1 the number of picks of each color, as in this example, bear a direct proportion to 1, and to each other, the problem may be simplified in the following manner: 4, 16 and -!4 are in the same proportion as 1, 4 and 6. 1-1-4+6 = 11 8.38 X 1 - = .761!^ }^Gunds twist, A ns. 11 .7618 X 4 r= 3.0472 pounds black, Ans. .7618 X 6 = 4.5708 pounds white, Ans. Total, S.3798 pounds. To Find Weight of Each Separate Count or Kind of Filling in Embossed Fabrics such as Welts, Piques, Quilts, etc. '"Rule 36. Miilliplii v-'hith in reed by pick, length of cloth in ifai'ds and number of picks of required counts per filling pattern, and divide by S40, counts of filUng, and nambfr of picks iu the filling pattern. 46 Practtcal Cotton Calcul^^tioxs Example. If it is desired to weave a cut of Mar- seilles quilts, Avhat weight of each kind of filling will be required if the cloth is made to the following particulars: width in reed, 96 inches; pick, 162; cut length, 30 yards; filling pattern, 2 picks of lO's and 4 picks of 50's alter- nately, 6 picks completing the round? 96 X 16:2 X 30 X 2 =2 18.5 lbs. of lO's, Ans. 840 X 10 X 6 96 X 162 X 30 X 4 =: 7.4 lbs. of oO's, A7iff. 840 X 50 X ^ To find counts of filling required the following factors must be dealt with: number of yards per pound, cloth or cut length, slashing length of each warp used, warp counts, number of ends of each counts, % of size or dressing on warp yarns, picks per inch and width in reed, therefore— To Find Counts of Filling Required in Any Cloth Use— ''^Rule 37. Divide the number of yards jjer cut by the number of yards per pound. This gives the weight of the cut in pounds. Multiply the number of ends of each counts by ilif> slashing length per cut of the respective warps and divide by 84O and the counts; add a certain % for size, if necessary. This gives the weight of the warp yarns. Deduct the weight of the warp from the weight of the cut. This gives the weight of the filling. Practical Cottox Calculatioks 47 M^iUiply the picks j)er inch by the width in the reed and the clotJi length, and divide by 84O and the weight of the filling. ExAnrpi.E. A cloth is required 76 X 80, -28 inches wide, 12 yards per pound, with 60's warp. Allow 3% for take-up and -1% for size on the warp. What counts of filling is required? Assume a certain length of cut, say 100 yards. 100 yard cut ^- 12 yards per lb. = 8.5 lbs., weight of cut,. 76 sley X -8 inches = 212S ends -|- 3-3 for selvedges =^ 3160 ends. 100 yard cut + 3% = 103 yards, slashing length. G 160 ends X 103 yards =. 4.41 lbs. warp. 840 X 60's counts , ^ , 0/ • .1* =4% size. 4.58 lbs. warp and size; this is considered warp. The preceding might have been done in one problem by adding the 4% for size to the slashing length, and using 107 instead of 103. 8.5 lbs. weight of cut 4.58 lbs. weight of warp 3.92 lbs. weight of filling 76 sley X 2S inches wide — = 1064 dents in reed. 2 ends per dent, 1064 dents 59.8 inches 35.71 dents per inch in a 76 sley reed width in reed. 48 Practical Cotton Calculations 80 picks per in. X :29.8 in. X 100 yds. =r 72A's fillins 840 X 3.9;3 lbs. fillinff '^ . ^ . » required, Ans. If more than one warp counts is used, or more than one beam, each one must be considered sej)arately. Cotton ply yarns are not usually >.ized. To Find Counts of Filling Required when Sley, Pick, Warp Counts and Average Counts Are Known. Rule 38. Divide the sum of the slcij and pick h'f the averaye counts = A. Divide sletf hi/ warp counts = B. Deduct B. from A. = C. Divide pick Iji/ C. ==: A us. Example. A cloth is desired Ob' X 100. Tlie average counts necessary is S4.6's and the warp counts on hand T4's. What counts of fillino- must be used? 9(} sley + 100 pick = 19(). 196 -^ 84.6 average counts = ;2.316 = A. 96 sley -f- 74 warp counts = 1.297 = B, ;2.316— 1.297= 1.01 9 rrrC. 100 pick -:- 1.019 r= 98Vs filling- required, A ns. The aliove rule will also apply — To Find Warp Counts if the filling coimts are known, by substituting sley /or pick, and filling for warp. Practjcal Cotton Calculations 49^ To Find Counts of Filling Required when Sley, Pick, Cloth Width, Warp Counts and Yards per Pound Are Known. '•'Rule 39. Divide I64 (see constants) by the cloth icidth and number of yards per pound^=J. Divide sley by ivarp counts = B. Deduct B. from A. = C. Divide pick by C. = Ans. Example. A cloth is desired 96 X 100, .SO inches wide, 11 yards per lb.; tlie warp counts on hand are T't's. What counts of filling is required? 764 30 inches X H yards per lb. 96 sley -^ 74's warp counts ^=z 1.297 = B. 2.315 — 1.297 = 1.018 = C. lUO pick -^ 1.018 = 98's filling required. Jns. To Find Counts of Filling Required in a Cloth Containing 2 Different Counts of Filling Yarn when Average Counts of Filling, Counts of 1 Filling, Number of Picks of each Kind and Total Number of Picks per Pattern Are Known. Rule 40. Divide the total number of picks per pat- tern by (he average counts of the filling =A. Divide the number of p>icks of the known counts of filliny by the latter = B. Deduct B. from A.=^C. Divide the number of picks of the required counts by C^Ans. 50 Practical Cottox Caixilattoxs Example. A filling check pattern is arranged 38 picks of coarse and 360 picks of fine filling. The average- counts of the filling required is 46.6, and the counts of the coarse filling 15. What is the counts of fine filling required ? 360 + 38 = 398 total picks. 398 -=- 46.6 = 8.540 = A. 38^15 — 2.533 = B. 6.007 = C. 360 -^ 6.007 = 60's fine filling required, Ana. To Find the Average Counts of Filling in a Cloth Containing 2 or more Counts of Filling. Hule 41. Divide the number of picks of each counts per pattern by its oxen counts; add the results and diride into the total number of pricks per pattern. Exa3iple. a cloth contains 38 picks of 15's and 360 picks of 60's filling in one pattern. What is the average counts of the filling? 38 picks -^ 15's counts = 3.533 360 picks -^ 60's counts = 6. 398 8.533 398 -^ 8.533 = 46.64 average counts, Ans. CLOTH CALCULATIONS AVERAGE COUNTS OF YARN IN THE CLOTH Cotton cloths are based on the number of yards pei» lb. with a given width, sley and pick. It is customary, first, to find the average coimts of yarn in the cloth and then to assume the counts of warp. In coarse grades of cloth the warp and filling are about equal, whilst in the finer grades the filling is con- siderably finer than the warp. In all average counts of yarn calculations the number of single yarns are considered; for example, 50 ends of 3/x?4's would be considered loO ends of 34's single, not 50 ends of 8's. To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece of Cloth when Ends in Warp, Pick, Width in Reed and Number of Yards per Pound Are Known. Assume a certain length of cut and apply — '''Rule 42. Divide lern/th of cut by number of yards •per 'pound. This gives weight of cut. Multiply the number of ends by the slashing length. This gives length of warp, to which a certain % must be added for size, if the latter is used; consider size as varn. 52 Practical Cotton Caixulatioxs Multiphf the pick by the width in the reed and the cloth or cut length. This gives length of filling. Add length of warp to length of filling and divide by S40 and weight of ciit = Ans. ExA^iPLE. A cloth contains 300 ends of 3/20's, 200 ends of 4/08's and i?400 ends of 40's, 80 picks per inch. It was woven 32 inches wide in reed, and weighs 4.3:3 yards per pound. Allow 30% for contraction on the 2/20's warp, 15% on the 4/28's warp, and 10% for con- traction and size on the 40's warp. What are the average counts ? Assume a 100 yard cut. 100 yards cloth -~ 4.52 yards per lb. = 22.12 lbs., weight of cut. 300 ends of 2/20's = 600 ends. 200 ends of 4/28's = 800 ends. 2400 ends of 40's = 2400 ends. 600 ends X 120 yards = 72000 yards 20's 800 ends X 115 yards — 92000 yards 28's 2400 ends X 1 10 yards — 264000 yards 40's 80 pick X 32 in. X 100 yds. = 256000 yds. filling 684000 yards, total length of yarn. 684000 yards — — :; = 36.8 average counts, A ns. 840 X 22.12 lbs. ^ To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Piece of Cloth when Sley, Pick, Width and Yards per Pound Are Known. '•'Rule 43. Add sley and pick together; multiply result by width and yards per pound, and divide by S40. Practical Cottox Calcllatioxs 53 Tliis rule does not make any allowance for size or contraction. (See Rule 44.) Example. A cloth is made 96 X 100, 30 inches wide, and weighs 13 yards per lb. What are the average counts' 100 + 96 = 196' 196 X 30 inches X 13 yards ' = 84 av. counts, A ns. 840 To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth when Sley, Pick, Width and Number of Yards per Pound Are Known. '•'Rule 44. Mtiltl'phf the sum of the sley and iJick by the ivldth and mimber of yards per pomuL and divide by 764' (See constants.) This rule allows 10% for contraction and size. (See Rule 43.) Example. A cloth 96 X --0, 40 inches wide, weighs 3.6 yards per pound. AVhat is the average counts of the yarn? 96 sley + 330 pick z= 316 316 X 40 inches X 3.6 yards per lb. i64 59.5 av. counts, Ans. To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth when Sley, Pick and Counts of Warp and Filling Are Known. Rule 45. Divide sley by irarp counts and pick by fiUlny counts. Add results and divide into sum of sley and pick. 54 Practical Cotton Calculations Example. A cloth 96 X -~0 is made with 45's warp and 70's filling. "What is the average counts of the yarn? 96 sley -^ 45's counts = ;?. 13 •220 pick ^ TO's counts == 3.14 316 0.27 316 -=- 5.27 = 60's average counts, Ans. The preceding rules, 43, 44, 45, may be used — To Find Average Counts of Yarn in a Cloth when Only One Warp Counts Is Used in a Cramped Stripe, by substituting "average sley" for "sley." To Find Average Counts of Yam in a Cloth Containing More than One Counts of Warp Yam, when Width, Warp Counts, Number of Ends of Each Counts in Warps, Pick and Filling Counts Are Known. Rule 46. Miilllphj the pick bif the cloth xoidth:=^ D wide A bi/ the fillinf/ counts =^ B. Divide the number of ends of each counts by its oxen counts =: C. Total number of ends = D. Divide sum of A and D by sum of B and C=:Ans. Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 ends ot 3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 75's filling, 30 inches wide. What is the average counts of the yarns? 80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 55 i\ 100 picks X 30 inches = 3000 = A 3000 -^ 75 = 40 = B ;.'40 -7- 30 == 8 =C 2200-^60 = 36.66 = ^40 + 2200 = 2440 = D 3000 + 2440 = 5440 40 + 8 + 36.66 = 84.66 5440 -f- 84.66 = 64 average counts, A ns. Rule 46 assumes a normal contraction in Icngtii and width. If the cloth is a leno, lappet or any style where excessive rate of contraction occurs on some ends, an allowance must be made for the same. For example, it it was necessary to allow say 140 yards of 3/30's warp in the preceding example for 100 yards of cloth. /. c, to add 40%, the first part of C would be worked out as follows : 240^30 = 8; 8 + 40%r=11.2 The average counts in this case would of course be different from the answer to the preceding example. Another rule dealing with the same factors is — • Rule 47. Divide the average sletj by the avera(/e warp coaufs ami the pick by the fiUiny counts; add th& results and divide into the su7n of the average shy and the pick. The average sley may be found by Rule 51. The average warp counts may be found by Rule 20. Example. A cloth is made as follows: 80 ends of 3/30's, 2200 ends of 60's, 100 picks of 75's filling, 30 inches wide. What is the average counts of the yarns ? Practical Cottox Calculations 80 ends of 3/30's = 240 ends of 30's 040 ^ 0^00 = 2440 total ends 2440 ends -^ 30 inches = 81.333 a v. sley 240 ends + 30's counts = 8 2200 ends -- 60's connts = 3dM6 2440 44.666 2440 ends -f- 44.666 = o4.6's av. warp counts 81.333 av. sley -=- 54.6's av. warp =rr 1.489 100 pick H- 75's filling =1.333 181.333 2.822 181.333 -=- 2.822 = 64's average counts, Ans. To Find the Average Counts of Yam in a Cloth when % Warp, 9v Filling and Counts of Warp and Filling Are Known. Rule 48. Multiph/ the % icarp by the warp counis and the % filUng hi/ the jiUiiKj counts; add the products. Example. A cloth of which 54% of the material is warp and 46% filling is made with 50's warp and 60's filling. "What is the average counts of the yarn? 54% X 50's warp counts = 27. 46% X 60's filling counts =: 27. Average counts, 54.60's, Am .00 .60 ExA:\rPLE. What is the average counts of the single yarns in a cloth which 24% of the yarn is 3/20's warp, 14% is 4/28's warp, 37% is 40's warp, and 25% is 50's fillino-? Practical Cotton Calculations 57 ^4% X 50's warp counts = 4.80 14% X A?8's warp counts = 3.9-3 37% X 40's warp counts = 14.80 ^3o% X .'jO's fiUino- counts r= 13.50 Avernge count'^, 3b'. 03, Aus. To Find Average Counts of Yarn from a Small Piece of Cloth "'Rule 49, ^lulfiplif ihe sum of the sl'fif and jj'ick by the mi):iber of square indies weUjhed and bif 7000, anct divide by the weight in (/rains, bi/ SG and 764. (See con- stants.) In this rule 7000, 3() nnd 7G4 are constant factors — 7000 = .354 36 X 764 therefore the 36 and 764 can be dispensed with and .354 iLsed instead of 7000, o;ivlng— "'^Rule 50. MultipJi/ the sum of the slei/ and jyick by the number of square inches iceirjhed and by .254 «"-^ divide by the xveiyht in c/rains. Example. 4 sq. inclies of a piece of cloth 96X3;?0 weighs 5.4 grains. What are the average counts of the yarn? 96 + 330 r= 316 316 X 4 sq. in. X .354 -— j9,i.5 -xv. counts, Ans. 5,4 58 PnACTicAi. CoTTOX Cai.ci:latjons AVERAGE COUNTS OF CLOTH To Find Average Sley when Number of Ends in Warp and Width of Cloth Are Known. Rule 51. Divide the number of ends by the width. Example, A cloth 3J inches wide contains :2-2iO ends. What is the averag:e sley? x?i?40 ends -4- 3 J in. = 70 average sley, ^Ins. In finding average sleys, ply yarns are counted as the number of single yarns there are twisted together; -200 3-ply yarns would he counted as 600 singles. Example. A cloth -28 inches wide contains >0<)0 ends of single yarn and i^'o ends of 4 -ply cord yarn. What is the average sley? 36 X -i = 1+4 single strands in the 36 ply yarn<. 144 -f ^^000 =: 2144 total ends. ;i?144 ends -^ -28 in. = 76..57 average sley, J nK. To Find Averag-e Sley in an Unequally Reeded Stripe when Actual Sley and Warp Lay- out Are Given. Rule 52. MtiJfipJif the number of ends per pattern by one half of the sley and divide by the number of dents per pattern. Example. The warji ]iattern in a piece of cloth con- tains TO ends and occujiies 16 dents of a .56 sley reed. What is the average sley? 70 ends X 28 (\. of sley reed) ■ — — = 122.3 av. slev, A ns. 16 dents in one pattern Practical Cotton Calculations o9 To Find the Average Picks per Inch, when Check Pegs Are Used, when Number of Pegs, Picks per Pattern, and Number of Ground Picks per Inch Are Known. Rule 53. Deduct the number of check pecfs in one> repeat of the pattern from the number of picks per pat- tern; divide the result into picks per pattern, and multi- ply bif the picks per inch that the loom would put in if check pe(js were not used. ExA3iPLE. A check pattern 196 picks per pattern, requiring 64 check pegs, is being woven with a pinion gear that would give 84 picks per inch if check pegs were not used. What is the average pick? 196 picks per pattern — 64 check pegs ^=z 1^2 196 ^ 13;J — 1.484 X 84 rrr 124.65 average pick, Ans. The above rule assumes J tooth to he taken vp every pick. If a loom that takes up every 2 picks is used, multiply the number of check pegs by 2 and proceed as above. To Find the Average Picks per Inch, when Check Pegs Are Used, when Number of Picks per Pattern and Size of Pattern Are Known. Rule 54. Divide the number of picks per pattern by the size of the pattern. Example. The filling pattern in a cloth measures 1% inches, and contains 160 picks. What is the average pick ? 160 picks -~ 1.375 inches = 116 av. pick, .ins. 60 Practical Cotton Calculations "NVhen measuring the size of the pattern, it is advisable to use a rule graded in tenths and twentieths of an inch. (See page 73). Rule 54, substituting the word ends for picks, ma}' be applied — To Find the Average Sley. In dealing with average pick when figuring produc- tion, every time the shuttle goes across is termed one pick, whether carrying single or ply yarns. It will be necessary to consider this only on box loom patterns. CALCULATIONS FOR CHECK PEG PATTERNS See also "Average counts of cloths/' To Find the Number of Ground Picks per Inch in a Cloth, when the Average Pick, Number of Teeth Used per Pattern, and the Number of Picks per Pattern Are Known. Rule 55. Miilt'ipiii the average pick Jnj the number' of teeth used in one repeat of the pattern, and hif 2 (if the loom takes up evt^ri/ 2 2)icks), and divide hv the picks per pattern. ExA3iPLE. A check pattern 196 picks to one repeat takes up 66 teeth, in a loom that takes up 1 tooth in 2 picks; the average pick is l:?4.6o. "What is the number of ground picks per inch? 124.65 av. pick X dQ teeth X 2 = 83.9 ground picks 196 picks per pattern ^^^^ i^^,^ j^ ,^ ^. Practtcai. Cottox Caixulatioxs 61 To Find Number of Check Pegs to Use per Pattern when Ground Pick, Average Pick and Size of Pattern Are Known. Rule 56. Deduct the ground pick from the average pick and mulflplg the re,sult by the she of the pattern in inches. This rule assumes 1 tooth to 1 pick. If one tooth is taken up every -2 picks, divide the result by 2. Example, A cloth is made with a pattern ly^ inches j the ground pick is 84- and the average pick 134. How many check pegs must be used per pattern, assuming 2 picks to 1 tooth? 1:24 average pick S4 ground pick 40 40 X 1..J = GO ; 60 -^ ;? r=r 30 pegs required, Ans. To Find Number of Check Pegs to Use in a Pattern when Ground Pick, Average Pick and Number of Picks per Pattern Are Known. Rule 57. Multiplg the nrnnher of picks per pattern bif the number of ground picks per inch and divide bij the. average pick. Deduct result from number of picks per pattern = Ans. This rule assumes I tooth to 1 pick. If 1 tooth i* taken up every 2 picks, divide result by 2. Example. A cloth is desired 98 average pick and TO pick, assuming 1 tooth take-up to 1 pick. There are 40 picks per pattern. How many check pegs per pattern must be used? 65 Practical Cotton Calculatioks 40 picks per pattern X "'0 ground pick 98 average pick = 38.57 40 picks per pattern — 38.57 = 11.43, say 11 teeth stopped, Ans. If the take-up of the above example had been 2 picks. to 1 tooth, 6 teeth per pattern would have to be stopped. CLOTH CONTRACTION There are two things to be remembered when dealing with cloth calculations: First, the cloth is always shorter than the warp from which it was woven, due to the take-up by its being bent around the filling. Second, the cloth is always narrower than the warp is spread in the reed. Although rules that have been proven practical may be given to find the different items necessary for the reproduction of a piece of cloth, it must be understood that only approximate results can be obtained. The cloths from two looms working side by side may and do ])roduce cloths that vary either in length or width, or both, under apparently the same conditions. If a correct percentage is not allowed for contraction in width, two faults occur in the cloth: First, the cloth does not come out the desired width. Second, the correct slev is not obtained. Practical Coii'ox Calculatioxs 63 The following: factors will modify to some extent the amount of contraction in length or width from warp to cloth. The Weave. The oftener the interlacing's the more the shrinkage. For example, a plain cloth which 2nter' Fig. 1. •fff,:)M>j)).'}}}>J}JJJf ©^©#© © © ®#@ Fiff 9. laces as shown in Fig. 1 will require a longer warp than a 5 end warp sateen shown in Fig. -3 to produce a cloth of the same length, provided an equal number of picks per inch are used in each. The circles in Figs. 1 and 3 represent picks. If some ends weaving a sateen stripe were run from the same beam as other ends weaning plain, all being reeded :2 in a dent, the end^ weaving plain would take up faster than the sateen portion and either break by an excess of ten>ion or cause the sateen ends to weave slack and be l)roken by the shuttle, but if the sateen was reeded 4- or 5 in a dent ;ind the plain ■? in a dent the take-up would be about equal. The finer the quality and the softer the filling as com- pared with the warp the more will be the shrinkage in width. 64 Practical Cottox Calculations If the filling- is hard twisted and of a coarse nature, or coarser than the warp, the cloth will not shrink much in width. The more tension on the war}) yarns the longer will be the cloth and the narrower the width, up to a certain limit. The difference in weather, .system of sizing, class of loom used, tension on fillini>- yarns, or sley and pick as compared with each otlier also varies tlx^ amount of shrinkage. The yarns in weaves of the cord type, where several ends or picks work together, act like coarse yarns and tend to retain a straight line, the oilier yarn-, doing all the bendinji'. CONTRACTION IN LENGTH FROM WARP TO CLOTH To Find Approximate % of Contraction in Length from Warp to Cloth. Rule 58. :\[u]li.plij the pick hi/ J.J and divide hi/ the counts of the filling. For cloths tcoven with coinits lower than Jn's nudtipttf bif 4 instead of S.o. Example. A plain cloth is made 100 X 1-0 with SO"s warp and 90's filling, "What would be the approximate % of contraction in length from Avarp to cloth? 1^0 picks X 3.5 . = 4 -2-3% contraction, An& 90's fillinc; Practical Cottojc Calculations 65 To Find Length of Warp Required for a Given Length of Cloth in Lenos, Lappets, Fancy Combinations, and all Cloths where Some Ends Take up Considerably Faster than Others. Rule 59. Measure a certain length of chjfh = A. Unravel the ends required and measure th( m = B. Multiply the lenfjth of cloth desired by B and divide by A = Ans. Example. The yarns from a cloth o inches long measure 5i/, inches. How many yards of warp would be required for a oO yard cut of cloth? 5.3 in. X 50 yards — = 55 yards, A ns. 5 m. Where there is considerable difference in the iake-up of the ends in a cloth, two or more warp beam^ should be used. REED CALCULATIONS The four following examples are given to illustrate how the shrinkages in width vary in cloths of different structure. Sample Xo. 1. 63 sley X 33 pick, 90's warp and 140's filling, plain weave, 40 inches in the reed, gives 39 inches cloth. The reed width here is almost 3% more than I he cloth width. The reason for this small contraction is on 66 Practical Cottox Cat.culations account of the small number of picks as compared to sley. Sample No. 2. 48 X 1^8, 3/40's warp and 48*s filling, 31% inches in the reed gives 28 inches cloth. The reed width here is over 11% more than the cloth width. This excessive contraction is caused by the large pick, as compared to sley. Sample No. 3. 64 X 40, 48's warp and 15's filling, 33 inches in the reed gives 33 inches cloth. The reed width here is 3%% more than the cloth ^vidth. Sample No. 4. 88 X 50, 48's warp and 2/15\s filling, 34 inches in the reed gives 331/, inches cloth. The reed width here is iyo% more than the cloth width. The small contraction in Samples 3 and 4 is caused by the light pick and the heavy filling. The samples j ust noted are unusual structures of cloth, and are only mentioned to show how the contraction in width varies in amount. The following rules relating to contraction in width are approximately correct, for cloths where the sley and pick, and warp and filling, are nearly equal. It is usually understood when dealing with reed and sley calculations that 2 ends in each dent are intended, imless otlierwise stated. For certain reasons cloths are sometimes woven with only one end in a dent; at other times they are woven 3 or more ends in a dent. Practical Cottox Calculations 6T To Find Number of Dents per Inch in Reed to Produce a Given Sley. Rule 60. Deduct 1 from the slei/ and divide by of the folloic-ing numbers: one Ends per dent in reed. 1 o Divide by number. 1.05 3.1 3.15 4.3 Example. Find the number of dents per inch in the reed to give a 100 sley cloth by having 1, 2, 3 or 4 ends per dent. Ends per dent Constant Dent per in reed Sley. divisor, in. in reed. 1 100 — 1 z= 99 99 -f- 1.05 = 94.28 ^n*. 3 100 — 1 — 99 99-- 3.1 =^l.UAns. 3 100 — 1 = 99 99 -f- 3.15 = 31.43^^5. 4 100 — 1=99 ; 99-^-4.3 = 33.57 ^/js. See table on following page. 68 Practical Cottox Calculations Table showing number of dents per inch in the reed to produce any even numbered sley from 48 to 132. DENTS PER INCH IN REED SLEY 1 End per 2 Ends per 3 Ends per 4 Ends per Dent Dent 1)ENT Dent 48 44.76 22.38 14.92 11.19 50 46.66 23.33 15.55 11.66 52 48.56 24.28 16.19 12.14 54 50.48 25.24 16 83 12.62 56 52.38 26.19 17.46 13.09 58 54.28 27.14 18.09 13.57 60 56.18 28.09 lf^.73 14.04 62 58.10 29.05 19.03 14.52 64 60.00 30.00 20.00 15.00 66 61.90 30.95 20.63 15.47 68 63.82 31.91 21.27 15.95 70 65.72 32.86 21.91 16.43 72 67.64 33.82 22.55 16.91 74 69.52 34.76 23.17 17.38 76 71.42 35.71 23.81 17.85 78 73.32 36.66 24.44 18.33 80 75.24 37.62 25.08 18.81 82 77.18 38.59 25.73 19.29 84 79.04 39.52 26.35 19.76 86 80.96 40.48 26.99 20.24 88 82.86 41.43 27.65 20.71 90 84.76 42. .38 28.2.5 21.19 92 86.68 43.34 28.89 21.67 94 88.58 44.29 29.53 22.14 96 90.50 45.25 30.17 22 62 98 92.40 46.20 30.80 23.10 100 &4.'28 47.14 3143 23.57 102 96.20 48.10 32.07 24.05 104 98.12 49.06 32.91 24.53 106 100.00 50.00 33.33 25.00 108 101.90 50.95 33.97 25.47 110 103.80 51.90 34.60 25.95 112 ia5.72 52.86 35.24 26.43 114 107.62 53.81 35.87 26.90 116 109 52 54.76 36.51 27.38 118 111.42 55.71 37.14 27.85 120 113. .32 56.66 37.77 28.33 122 115.24 57.62 38.41 28.81 124 117.14 58.57 3^05 29.28 126 119.04 59.52 39.68 29.76 128 120.95 60.47 40.32 ;^.24 130 122.85 61.43 40.95 30.71 132 124.76 62.38 41.59 31.19 Practical Cottox CATXin.ATio>'s 69 There are various methods of marking reeds adopted in the cotton trade, three of which are as follows: 1st — By indicating the total dents on a certain number of inches. x?nd — By marking the sley on the side of the reed, 3rd — By marking the number of dents per inch. Sometimes reeds are marked by combinations of the above methods. If the number of dents on a certain number of inches are known it is only necessary to divide the total dents by the number of inches to find the number of dents per inch. To Find Sley that would be Woven with a Reed of a Given Number of Dents per inch. Rule 61. Midtipf}/ the number of deuts per inch by one of the foUovnng numbers and add one: Ends per dent in reed. Multiply by numiber. 1 l.Oo o o I 3 3.15 4 4.2 Example. What sley cloth would l>e woven with a reed containing 40 dents per inch, with 2 ends per dent? 40 dents X^-l—^ 84 + 1 = 8j sley cloth, Ans. To Find Sley Reed to Use for Unequally Reeded Patterns such as Bedford Cords, Lenos, Dimities, Stripes, etc. Rule 62. MuUiply the desired averaf/e sley by the number of dents per pattern and by 2, and divide by the number of ends per pattern. 70 Practical Cottox CALcruvTioxs Example No. 1. A warp pattern in a piece of cloth is found to be reeded 2 ends in 1 dent, \-2 ends in 3 dents, and there are 8 patterns in 1 inch. "What sley reed should be used to reproduce it? 14 ends per pattern X 8 patterns per inch = 11:3 aV' erage sley. 11;2 X 4 dents per patt. X - • =: 64 slev reed, A ns. 14 ends per patt. ExA3iPLE Xo. 2. It is desired to make a cloth 125 average sley, with the warp reeded 64 single ends in 3i? dents; 4 singles and a 3-ply yarn in 1 dent, 2 empty dents, 4 singles and a 3-ply yarn in 1 dent. What sley reed should be used? 3-ply yarns count as 3 singles in considering the av- erage sley. 155 av. sley X 35 dents per patt. X 2 ■ :; =112 sley reed, A ns. 78 ends per patt. To Find Width of Warp at the Reed when Width of Cloth and Sley Are Known. Rule 63. Multiply the width of the cloth by the sley and divide by the number of dents per inch in reed and the number of ends per dent. See reed table on page 68. Example. It is desired to weave an 88 sley cloth 3-3 inches wide. How wide should the warp be spread in the reed? An 88 sley cloth, 2 ends per dent, would be woven in a reed with 41.43 dents per inch. 33 inches X 88 sley .1 .a A I '• '• ~t ^ = 33.98 in., sav 34 in., Ans, 41.43 dents per m. m reed X 5 "' Practical Cottox Calculations 71 To Find Number of Dents Occupied by an Equally Reeded Warp. Rule 64. Divide the number of ends, less selvedges, by the number of ends per dent and add the necessanj number of dents for selvedges. Example. How many dents would be required for a warp of :?840 ends, -2 ends per dent, allowing -18 ends in 1:2 dents for selvedges? i?S40 ends — 48 for selvedges r= 2192 ends ;2792 -=-;?= 1396 dents 1396 dents + \2 for selvedges = 1408 dents CLOTH ANALYSIS For the convenience of those persons wlio>e duty it is to analyze fancy cotton fabrics the figure at the to]-> of page 73, which represents a 2-inch rule graded in lOths and i20ths, as well as the table on the same page, have been inserted. As previously stated in this book, it is advisable to measure the various sections with a rule graded in lOths and 20ths of an inch because there are less figures than when using other divisions of an inch. A small pair of dividers should be used, when an- alyzing fabrics, to measure the various sections suc- cessively. If the sample is to ])e duplicated in a different sley, the dents in the required sley for any width of cloth from \/2Q inch to 1 inch may be seen in the table on page 73. I'J A Practical Cottox Calculattoxs B C D ii ^:« i^:^ <»:^ ^i ^ jS;^ »•« ^:? ^i 5» ^ii" 0 . counts 50 s warp Practical Cotton Calculations 77 For i?8 inch cloth, say 30 inches in reed, 84 picks per in. X 30 in. X 100 yds. cut — = 5 lbs. of filling 840 X 60's filling counts 1,566 lbs. of 3/;34's warp 4.315 lbs. of 4./3;2's warp 6.548 lbs. of 50's warp 5.000 lbs. of 60's filling 17.4:29 100 yd. cut ~- 17.429 lb^. = 5.738 yds. per lb., Ans. To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound when Sley, Pick, Width and Average Counts Are Known. '■^Rule 69. Mulfi/jlif the (O'fraf/e counts bi/ 764 (see constants) and divide hij the -width and the sum of sJey end pick. Example. A cloth i« made 96 X 150 and is SSy. inches wide; the average counts is SS. How many yards of cloth are there in a pound? 58 average counts X 764 r:r 5.377 vards per lb., Ans. 96 + 150 X 331/2 inches To Find Number of Yards of Cloth per Pound when Sley, Pick, Width, Warp and Filling Counts Are Known. '''Rule 70. Divide sley by xvarp counts = A. Dii'ide pick by filling counts = B. Add A to B=zC\ Divide 764 (see constants) by C and the width = Ans. See Rule 71. 78 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs ExA3iPLE. A cloth is desired 64 X 1-4, 33'/^, inches wide, with SB's warp and 48's filling. How many yards will there be in a pound of cloth ? 64-^-36 = 1.77 = A 124 ^ 48 = •?.58 = B 1.77 + 2.58 = 4.35 = 764 = 5.24 yards per lb., Avs. 4.35 X 33.5 ins Another rule dealing; with the factors mentioned in the preceding example is as follows: *Illlle 71. Divide the number of hanks for the sley and rvidth given on the following table by the counts of the war]) and the filling yarns; add both results together and allow for contraction and size, and divide into 100 (yards). Example. A cloth is made 28 inches, 72 X 68, with 80's warp and lOO's filling; alloAv 10% for contraction and size. How many yards of cloth are there per pound? By examining the table 72 sley cloth, 28 inches wide contains 240 hanks of warp. A 68 pick cloth contains 226.66 hanks of filling for the same width. 240 hanks warp ^- 80's counts = 3 226.66 hanks filling -=- lOO's counts = 2.266 5.266 add 10% .526 Weight of 100 yards of cloth, 5.792 lbs. 100-^5.792 = 17.265 yards per lb., Ans. Practical Cottox Calculations 79 *The tables on pag-es 80 and 81 will be found useful when finding the weight of warp or filling yarns in 100 yards of cloth. Allowance has not been made in this table for contraction or size, as these will vary in differ- ent classes of goods. The width in the reed instead of the width of the cloth should be considered in dealing with filling calcu- lations. To Find Number of Ounces per Yard from a Small Piece of Cloth. Rule 72. Multipli/ the iridth of the cloth in inchefi by the "weight of a ftmall piece in grains and hg 3G, and divide bi/ IfS'H.o (grf. per oz.) and the number of square inches iceighed. ExA^iPLE. A piece of cloth 4 inches square weighs 16 grains. What is the weight in ounces per yard of cloth 58 inches wide? 28 inches X 16 grains X 36 =2.3 ozs. per yd., Ans. 437.5 grains X 16 sq. inches In the above rule 36 and 437.5 are constant numbers, therefore the 36 above the line could be dispensed with and \-2.\o-2 used instead of 437.5 below the line. (437.5 grs. per oz. -f- 36 inches per yard = 12.15-2.) Using the preceding example the working would be as follows: 28 inches X 16 grains ■ z=i 2.3 ozs., per yd., A ns. 12.152 X 16 sq. inches 80 Practicai. CoTixDN Calcui.atioxs NUMBER OF HANKS OF YARN, WARP OR FILLING, IN 100 YARDS OF CLOTH See note (*) on preceuing- page. CO W W I?; W H O O fa o w H ! X iie re <— ci i^ X ei 1-1 c^ X X T ei x x i e re- ei c-- x le'. e^ — c^ i^ x re, X o 's; X r-i ic o re r-; o tt x cj -x re i- — i-e r; ci x o ^ x — ue ?- rr X Ci '-I rO' X X o r^ lC X c ei lO t^ o el TT i^ ~j .-^ 'T" X ci -- re xj x' c *o X C5 " ci re TT X 1- X C5 ^ ei re Tj. X i^ X C". o e-i re — ue r^ X 3; c e3 CO ^ .-H — . r- .-1 — ( r^ -- c^ e-i C) M (M ei ei c^ re ro CO ro re CO re ro ^ rr"^ o re •<»< -rf uf ic X x> X t^ X X X C5 — c^ e^ cj M re -rr -«" c X x> X x> CO c) f-; o C5 X i~- x_ L-e T!; re_ e; ^. .-; ^ ^c i^ x i.e_ tt ro ej ^ O ci x r^ S re' lie" r-' ci o c5 1' x' x o ei .^" x" x' c '-' re' i.e t^ ci r.^ re' ic t^ ci o eJ i- x X C-. C' T-J ro -.ri-C Xi t^ c: o ^ ei re i^ X t^ X C5 o CJ ro T ue X X o o ^ _ ^ ^ __ _ ._. ^ ^ c) ei ei ei ea ej ea CJ ea re re re re ro c-t ro ro ^ -r 80 91 .48 102.86 114.29 125.71 187.15 148..57 160 171.48 182.86 194.29 205.72 217.14 228. .57 210 251 .42 262,86 274.29 285.72 297.14 808..58 8.20 881.18 8,42. 8(i 865.72 877.15 8.88.-58 400 to X e-i t^ ci X re X ej Ci "i; ci -r o >je x ^ x -- x t-" x ci x cj x re x re X X lie t-e .^_ .^_ ro re ei e > .-; .-; r-i o ~. C; x x i^ i^ x_ x i.e ic ".y rj. re re x> r- x" ci o T-' ei re* -i* lc* x r^ x c-I o o -^ ei re — ' ic x^ i-^ x c: o -- ei re i> X C5 c evi re -r ir: X t- X C-. c >- re 'T le X 1^ X C-. o — ei re !^ x i- x .-H r- — -^ -H — I ,-( r- r-. CJ ei ei e-i cj e4 e^ e-i ea oe ro re ro re re ce co | re. r-- X X T ei c X -r ei C-- X le e* x uo re x — re .— x x -f-- x o , CO x_ cj i- ej i- r-, X -. X c i-c q ic - X C-. e — ej ro — Le X t^ X c: c ei ro -r< ic X 1^ X c: o — ei ro -^ i-e X — — — — — ^ — — .— .-' ei eJ M eJ ei CJ ei ei ei ce re re re re re ro cocccoooocooccccccoooooooccco I- X Ci cr — ei re — ■ ". x i-~ x c-. o — e^i r^ — .e x i^ x cr-. o — ei re t o — — . ^^ — — t-i e^ CI ei e^ o CJ ci ej cj e4 re re CO CO ce CO o X o — .^ X X ej ei X X — e^ i.-e X ci t t^ c: -r re x ci cj ^r x c; ei ce '— . ^. i"~. <^} 1"^ ^i ^. -'• ^ ^x ^ "% "^r "^ '^^.'-\ '■'• '^ "-^ "t ■— . '^ '": ■^ '^ '^ *. -'' x' x' i.e' ""' T* -r- ce* ce" ei ei — " — o o C ci ci oc oc t~^ i--' x x ue' ut' t* tj* re re X 1^ X c. c — ei re -T i-e X t^ X o o o — ei re — i-c X 1^ X c". o — e) re r=i — .-^ — — — .— -H — — ei ei ei ei CJ e4 M (N cj M CJ o re re ro oo cc CO X re X ei t^ e: X cj x — x — i.e -r ~ le c^. — ct re x -~ t^ m t^ e3 x CO ce -r rr uc i-e x x_ i^ i-^ x_ x ~. ci c x — — ej e^i re re -rr rr L.e i-e_ x x re ei — d C-* x' r-^ x' ifi -r re' ei — " d Q d x' t-^ x i.e -r re ei — d d x' i-* x' i X i> X cv cr. X — e 1 re — i.e x i^ x r: ~. x — ei re -* ire x t^ x x cr. o .-i i . — — . — ei ei M ei CM ej M e; d e-i ei re re i to CO t^ — — X X eJ r — - ei X X ro x — ei x — ei t^ r" — x x -r i le — t^ ei X -r le — i^_ ej x rr L,e — i^ ei x rr le — r~ e| x -r C X r-' i-e -- ei — o x' i--' i.e' -r* ei — o x' i-.^ .e — ' ei r^^ x x' i^' le »- ei t-h o i X X i^ X c. X — e : ei re — i.e X t^ X X ~. X — ei re — — le X t^ X C-. o _^_^ — _. — r- M ei cj ca MCMei ei eie^e-iro 1 CO X X X ue — r- ce ei re ei ei ei — x x r-- x x x x x x iie t rr »r co X t^ X C-- c — ei rr — .e; X 1- X n o — ei re t- lo x i^ x c- o — et co X — e) o cr-i^ ic ce --^ c. £^ i-e ce — X X X — ei c X ;x rr c^ c c t^ ir: co iS X t^ X X c. o c ei ei ce rr lo X 1- j^ X c o — — m re -r le le x r- x ; — — — — T-i — — — — — i-r- c^eacMejege^eMeJejeJc^ \ CO .58.8,8 60.95 68..57 76.2 .88.81 91.48 99.01 106.6(; 114.29 121.9 187.14 114.76 1.52.88 160 167.62 175.21 l.S2.8() 190.17 198.08 205.71 218.8,8 220.95 228.-58 286.19 218.8 251 .42 259.04 266.60 ^ 50 -57.14 64 .2H 71 .48 78.-57 .85.71 92.86 100 107.11 1 14.28 121.48 128.-56 185.71 1 12.86 1-57.14 161.28 171.48 178.-57 185.72 192.84 200 207.14 214.28 221 ,42 228.57 285.71 242.86 2.50 00 46.66 58.33 60 00.66 78.88 80 86.66 98.33 00 06.06 13.33 20 8.:;. 83 10 58.83 60 78.83 80 86.66 98,. 38 >00 >06.60 J13.33 J20 ;20.06 533.33 ".-^^^ ao; r!fX)XOeJTr5CX©e5rtXiXOCJr» 1-; iq C5 C^_ ?D O TT CC C^l iq OJ CO l-_ rH -.3; OC C-J 50 iro ic cc c c^' ic f-^ c4 - ic ■t; CO r^i C<; >-i c: co 1^ -^ ic rr co c^ 1-; ca oo i--- ic -^ c? i>\ (M_ i-; 3C c-i TT< to ao 1-H CO ic" r-^ cJ !-< CO ic t^ ci ci •w' cc 00 '^^ ■-»" 'X i-J ^4 -r lO to I^ CC ■— 1 C'l CO -T" u'O t^ 00 C3 >— 1 CO -^ lO CO l^ C2 •— 1 ■M CO iC. T}< 'T T -* TT T lCiC lO ct lO 1-': to to to to CO to tO' l^ l^ I'- l^ l^ l^ 00 -rtcac.-^i.t!t^ 'M-9 I--; r-H lC -^ 00 C^j I--; .— ; lC -^^ OC <>\ l-~_ T-H iq T!< CC M_ t- rH O -^ 1-^ '^^ -r 1-c' r^ 00 rH 0-) Tf ut' r-' oo" ^' o-i i5 i.o i--^ 06 t-h" c-i -^ 16 r^ oo r-3 T-- n CO -ric to « 05 '-' 0-4 CO -r to 1- X' -H C-) -T Iff to I- XJ C-. c-i CO ■rr' TT 'T" -n" -^ -V-^ -v iC. ift' lt: i-t lC L.-. lO uO to to :0 to to to to to to l^ l^ l^ CO CO -^ -^ -^ -^r ^ ^ -^ Tf T u-t ut iC uo iC iC lO iC' to to to to to CO to to to I- •J} w w W H O ♦f ■^ mimmiikMiiimimMim cocococo-n'^->3'Tf->i'Tr- Harness yarn (prep.) a a (b iL (( o (4 strands) O Harness yarn (tin.) •i a <( ,i " 6.3 Knitting cotton (b a (4 ii " 3.08 Crochet cotton (4 fold) (( a a (( " 7.6 Embroidery yarn-, (4 fold) a bb single a " 2.2 TWIST TABLE On pages 90 and 91 will be found twist tables, used by permission of Draper Co., Hopedale, Mas-;. These show the square roots of all counts from 1 to 140, also the number of turns per inch for 5 kinds of yarns as used in the United States. 90 Practicai, Cotton- Cat.culatioms TWIST TABLE. Sbowiog thf squara root of the Dumbtrs or tounts from I to 140 backs Id (be pcuod, with the twist ptr iocb for JitTtiKnt kinds of yarn. Counts or Square Kool Ordinary Warp Warp Extra Mule Warp Mule Warp Twist Muie Filline Number?. Twist. 4.75 Twist Twist. TwiRt 1 l.OOOO 4. 50 4.00 3.75 3.25 2 1.4142 6.72 6.36 6,66 5.30 4,60 3 1.7321 8.23 7.79 6.93 6.50 5.03 4 2.0000 9.50 9.00 8.0O 7.50 6.50 6 2.2301 10.62 10.06 8.94 8.39 7.27 6 2.4405 11.64 11.02 9.80 9.19 7.96 ,7 2.6458 12.57 11.91 10.58 9.92 8.60 8 2.8284 13.44 12.73 11.31 10.61 9.19 3.0000 14.26 13.50 12.00 11.25 9.75 g? 3.1 023 15.02 14.23 12.65 11.80 10.28 3.3100 15.75 14.92 13.27 12.44 10.78 12 3.4041 16.45 15.59 13.86 12.99 11.26 13 3.00.".0 17.13 16.22 14.42 13.52 11.72 14 3.7417 17.77 10.84 14.97 14.03 12,16 15 3.8730 18.40 17.43 15.49 14.52 12.59 16 4.0000 19.00 18.00 16.00 15.00 13.00 17 4.1231 19.58 18.55 16.49 15.40 13,40 18 4.2426 20.15 19.09 16.97 15.91 13.79 19 4.3589 20.70 19.62 17.44 16.35 14.17 SO 4.4721 21.24 20.12 17.89 16.77 14:63 21 4.5826 21.77 20.62 18.33 17.18 14.89 22 4.6904 22.28 21.11 18.76 17.59 15.24 23 4.7958 22.78 21.58 19.18 17.98 15.69 24 4.8990 23.27 22.05 19.60 18.37 15.92 25 5.0000 23.75 22.50 20.00 18.75 16.25 26 5.0990 24.22 22.95 20.40 19.12 16.67 27 5.1962 24.68 23.38 20.78 19.49 16.89 28 5.2915 25.13 23.81 21.17 19.84 17,20 17.50 29 5.3852 25.58 24.23 21.54 20.19 30 5.4T72 20.02 24.65 21.91 20.54 17.80 31 5.5678 2G.45 25.06 22.27 20.88 18.10 32 5.6569 20.87 25.46 22.63 21.21 18.38 33 5.7446 27.29 25.85 22.98 21.54 18.67 34 5.8310 27.70 26.24 23.32 21.87 18.96 19.23 36 5.9161 28.10 26.62 23.66 22.19 36 6.0000 28.50 27.00 24.00 22.50 19.50 37 6.0828 28.89 27.37 24.33 22.81 19.77 38 6.1644 29.28 27.74 24.66 23.12 20.03 39 6.2450 29.66 28.10 24.98 23.42 20.30 40 6.3240 30.04 28.46 25.30 23.72 20.55 41 6.4031 30.41 28.81 25.61 24.01 20.81 42 6.4807 30.78 29.16 25.92 24.30 21.00 43 6.5574 31.15 29.51 26.23 24.59 21.31 44 6.6332 , 31.51 29.85 26.53 24.87 21.56 45 6.7082 31.86 30.19 26.83 25.16 21.80 46 6.7823 32.22 30.52 27.13 25.43 22.04 47 6.8567 32.56 30.85 27.42 25.71 22.28 48 6.9282 32.91 31.18 27.71 25.98 22.52 49 7.0000 33.25 31.50 28.00 26.26 22.75 KO 7.0711 33.59 31.82 28.28 26.62 22.98 51 7.1414 33.92 32.14 28.57 26.78 23.21 ',2 7.2111 34.25 32.45 28.85 27.04 23.44 .n3 7.2801 34.58 32.76 29.12 27.30 23.66 54 7.3485 34.91 33.07 29.39 27.56 23.88 55 7.4162 35.23 33.37 29.66 27.81 24,10 56 7.4833 35.55 33.67 29.93 28.06 24.32 57 58 7.5498 35.86 33.97 30.20 28.31 24.54 7.6158 36.17 34.27 30.46 28.56 24.75 59 7.6811 30.49 34.67 30.72 28,80 24.96 60 7.7460 36.79 34.86 30.98 29.05 25.17 61 7.8102 37.10 35.15 31,24 29,29 25.38 62 7.8740 37.40 35.43 31.50 29.53 25.59 63 7.9373 37.70 35.72 31.75 29.76 25.80 64 8.0000 38.00 36.00 32.00 30.00 26.00 C5 8.0623 38.30 36.28 32.25 80.23 26.20 66 8.1240 38.59 36.56 32.50 30.47 26.40 67 8.1854 38.88 36.83 32.74 30.70 26.60 68 8.2462 89.17 37.11 32.98 30.92 26.80 69 8.3066 39.46 37.38 33.23 31.15 27,00 70 8.3666 39.74 37.65 33.47 31.37 27.19 Practical Cottox Calculations 91 TWfST TABLE. Conltnuid. Countf Sqaar* Root. Ordioarr Extra Mulp or Warp Warr Mule Warp Mule Warp TwUt Filling Numbers. Twist Twist Twist. Twigt. 1 l.OOOO 4.75 4.no 4.00 8.75 3.25 71 8.4261 40.02 37.92 33.70 81.60 27.38 72 8.4853 40.31 38.18 33.94 31.82 27.58 73 8.6440 40.58 38.45 34.18 32.04 27.77 74 8.6023 40.86 38.71 34.41 32.26 27.96 75 8.6603 41.14 38.97 34.64 32.48 28.16 76 8.7178 41.41 39.23 34.87 32.69 28.33 77 8.7760 41.68 39.49 35.10 32.91 28.52 78 8.8318 41.95 39.74 35.33 33.12 28.70 79 8.8882 42.22 40.00 35.56 33.33 28.89 80 8.9443 42.49 40.26 35.78 33.54 29.07 81 9.0000 42.76 40.50 30.00 33.75 29.26 82 9.0564 43.01 40.75 36.22 33.96 29.4? 83 9.1104 43.27 41.00 36.44 34.16 29.61 84 9.1652 43.53 41.24 86.66 34.37 29.79 85 9.2^195 43.79 41.49 36.88 34.57 29.96 86 9.2736 44.05 41.73 37.09 84.78 30.14 87 9.3274 44.31 41.97 37.31 34.98 30.31 88 9.3808 44.56 42.21 37.52 35.18 30.49 89 9.4340 44.81 42.46 37.74 35.38 30.66 90 9.4868 45.06 42.69 37.96 85.58 30.83 91 9..5394 45.31 42.93 38.16 36.77 31.00 92 9.5917 45.66 43.16 88.37 35.97 31.17 93 9.6437 45.31 43.40 38.57 36.16 31.34 94 9.6954 46.05 43.63 38.78 36.36 31.61 95 9.7468 46.30 43.86 38.99 36.66 31.68 96 9.7980 46.54 44.09 89.19 36.74 31.84 97 9.8489 46.78 44.32 39.40 36.93 32.01 98 9.8995 47.02 44.55 89.60 37.12 32.17 99 9.9499 47.26 44.77 89.80 37.31 32.34 100 10.0000 47.50 45.00 40.00 37.50 32.50 101 10.0499 47.74 45.22 40.20 37.69 32.66 102 10.0995 47.97 46.45 40.40 37.87 82.82 103 10.1489 48.21 46.67 4(1.60 38.06 82.98 104 10.1980 48.44 45.89 40.79 38.24 33.14 105 10.2470 48.67 46.11 40.99 38.43 33.30 106 10.2956 48.90 46.33 41.18 38.61 33.46 107 10.3441 49.13 48.55 41.38 38.79 33.62 108 10.3973 49.36 46.77 41.67 38.97 33.77 109 10.4403 49.59 46.9S 41.76 39.16 33.93 110 10.4881 49.82 47.20 41.96 39.33 34.09 HI 10.5357 50.04 47.41 42.14 39.61 34.24 112 10.5830 50.27 47.62 42.33 39.69 34.39 113 10.6301 50.49 47.84 42.62 39.86 34.55 114 10.6771 50.72 48.05 42.71 40.04 34.70 115 10.7238 50.94 48.26 42.90 40.21 34.85 116 10.7703 61.16 48.47 43.08 40.39 36.00 117 10.8167 51.38 48.67 43.27 40.56 35.15 118 10.8628 61.60 48.88 43.46 40,74 35.30 119 . 120 10.9087 61.82 49.09 43.63 40.91 35.45 10.9545 62.03 49.30 43.82 41.08 35.60 121 11.0000 52.26 49.60 44.00 41.25 35.75 122 11.0454 52.47 49.70 44.18 41.42 35.90 123 11.0905 62.68 49.91 44.36 41.59 36.04 124 11.1366 62.8§ 50.11 44.64 41.76 36.19 125 11.1803 63.11 50.31 44.72 41.93 36.34 126 11.2250 53.32 50.51 44.90 42.09 36.48 127 11.2694 63.53 50.71 45.08 42.26 36.63 ! 128 11.3137 53.74 60.91 45.25 42.43 86.77 129 11.3678 53.96 61.12 45.43 42.59 86.91 ISO 11.4018 54.16 51.31 45.61 42.76 37.06 131 11.4465 54.37 51,60 45.78 42.92 37.20 132 11.4891 64.67 61,70 46.96 43.08 37.34 133 11.5326 54.78 61.90 46,13 43.26 87.48 134 11.5758 64.99 62.09 46.30 43.41 37.62 136 11.6190 56.19 62.29 46.48 43.67 37.76 136 11.6619 65.89 52.48 46.65 43.73 37.90 137 11.7047 55.60 52.67 46.82 43.89 38.04 138 11.7473 55.80 62.86 47.99 44.05 38.18 139 11.7898 66.00 63,06 47.16 44.21 38.32 140 11.8322 66.20 &a.34 47.33 44.37 38.46 92 Practical Cottox Calculations DIAMETERS OF YARNS The question of the diameter of yarns has very little bearing: on practical calculations. About the only prac- tical value that can be quoted is that of guiding a person to prevent him from attempting to make an impossible construction of cloth. There is a limit to the sley and pick of a cloth that can be woven with a given weave and a given amount of material, the number varying according to the number of interlacings in the w'eave and the counts of yarn. It is well known that yarns of similar counts but of different grades of cotton vary in diameter, the natural tendency of some being to bed into each other more than others, thereby forming a yarn with a smaller diameter. A yarn made in a room containing a moistening apparatus will also be of smaller diameter than one made in a hot dry room in which there is considerable electricity, because the fibres have a tendency to cling together better in a damp room. The diameters of cotton yarns vary inversely as the square roots of the counts, and the following is given: To Find the Diameter of a Cotton Yarn, or the Number of Strands of Cotton Yam of Any Counts that can be Placed Side by Side in One Inch. Rule 80. Mttltiph/ SIfO h]i the counts of yarn; ex- tract the square root of the answer and deduct 10% for compress^ion. (See Rule 81.) Practicai, Cottox Cai.culations 93 ExA3iPi.E. What is the diameter of I's yarn? 840 X 1 == S40; sq. root 840 = ;2S.98; 10% of 28.98 = 2.89. ^g,Q8 — 2.89 = 26.09 or 26.1, 1-26.1 inches, diameter of yarn, Ans. That is, 26.1 strands of I's yarn can be placed side h}' side in the space of 1 inch. As the diameter of No. I's yarn is 1/26.1 inches. Rule 8] may be substituted for Rule 80. Rule 81. Multipli/ the square root of the counts of yarn bt/ -26.1. ExAMPi^, How many strands of 36's yarn can be placed in 1 inch, flat? Sq. root 36=6; 6 X 26.1 = 156.6, .d(H5. That is, a 3G's yarn is 1-1.56.6 inches in diameter. The tables on pages 90 and 91 show the square root of all counts from 1 to 140, therefore to find the diameter of any cotton yarn it is only necessary to multiply the square root of the counts desired, as found in the table, by 26.1 to give the number of strands of yarn of that i^'ount that can be laid in the space of one inch. 94 Practical Cottox Calculatioxj* TESTING YARNS FOR STRENGTH The method generally adopted when testing yarns in hank form for strength is to reel one lea from each of 1 to 4 bobbins, and place each lea separately on a machine made for the purpose which automatically indicates the breaking strength of yarn. It is advisable to have the testing machine nm by power because when making comparative tests the pull on each hank should be uniform. Yarns of similar counts but different grades of cotton vary in breaking strength, and it is impossible to state just how strong a yarn should be. The number of turns or twists per inch will also vary the breaking strength. By referring to the table on page 96 it will be noticed that the yarns do not vary in breaking strength in similar proportion to the counts. BREAKING WEIGHTS OF AMERICAN YARNS SPUN FROM AMERI- CAN COTTON The table on page 9(), used by permission of Draper Company, Hopedale, Massachusetts, indicates the average breaking? weights of sample skeins from several hundred American mills. The OLD breaking weight referred to in the table is an old standard obtained by tests from 2:25 mills in 18S6, and is here shown for the purpose of comparison with the XEW standards. The first xew table represents average tests of carded yarns made from stock averaging about strict middling in grade. The combed warp table represents tests of yarns made from stock slightly under good middling. The table of soft twisted yarn is based on yarns aver- aging 3.25 times the square root of the counts of twist, the stock averaging about strict middling. All the yarns were tested on a ]>ower tester. 1 OLD 1 NEW 1 NEW NEW OLD NEwl yards eight drains. aking eight Warp am. aking e'ght Warp arn. aking eight mbed arp. aking eight ; Twist am. 120 yards Weight in Grains. H p- TO Breaking Weight of Warp Yarn. aking eight mbed 'arp. i^!s 5^ 2 o P3^ o |sa? 2.^ Z o 51 1^^^ 1000 1 19.6 36.6 47— 500 2 19.2 52 36.1 46 333.3 3 530 634+ 863— 620+ 18.9 63 35.5 45+ 260 4 410 476— 646 462 18.5 64 34.9 44+ 200 5 330 381 516 867 18.2 55 34.4 43- 166.7 6 275 318— 429+ 3674- 304— 17.9 56 33.8 42-1- 142.9 7 2:^7.6 2724- 238-4- 258+ 17.5 57 33.4 42— 126 8 209 321 224-- 17.2 58 32.8 41- 111.1 9 186.5 212-i- 285- 198-1- 17 59 32.3 4C+ 100 10 168.7 191 256 177 16.7 60 31.7 39+ 90.9 11 154.1 174— 232+ 160— 16.4 61 31.3 89— 83.3 12 142 159-1- 213— 146+ 133+ 16.1 62 30.8 38- 76.9 13 131.5 147+ 196 15.9 63 30.4 37+ 71.4 14 122.8 137— 182- 123— 16.6 64 30 37- 66.7 15 115.1 128— 169+ 1584- 114— 15.4 65 29.6 36 62.5 16 108.4 120— 106- 15.2 66 29.2 35+ 58.8 17 102.5 113— 149— 99— 14.9 67 28.8 35- 56.6 18 97.3 107— 140+ 93- 14.7 68 28.5 34+ 52.6 19 92.6 101 133— 87 14.6 69 28.2 34- 60 30 88.3 96 126 82 14.3 70 27.8 88+ 47.6 21 83.8 91+ 87+ 120— 77+ 14.1 71 27.4 83- 46.5 22 79.7 114H _ 73-1- 13.9 72 27.1 32+ 43.5 23 75.9 84— 109- - 70— 13.7 73 26.8 32- 41.7 24 72.4 80+ 104- - 66+ 13.6 74 26.5 31+ 40 25 69.2 77 100 6;} 13.3 76 26.2 31- 38.6 26 66.3 74+ 96 60+ 13.2 76 25.8 80+ 37 27 63.6 71+ 92+ 57+ 13 77 25,5 30— 35.7 28 61.3 69- 89- 55— 12.8 78 25.3 29+ 34.6 29 69.2 67- 8&- 53— 12.7 79 24.9 29- 33.3 30 57.3 64H _ 83- 50H _ 12.5 80 24.6 28+ 28-i- 32.3 31 55.6 62- - 80- 48- - 1 12.4 81 24.3 31.3 32 54 60- 77+ 46- - i 12.2 82 24 28- 30.3 33 52.6 69— 75- 45— 1 12.1 83 23.7 27+ 29.4 34 51.2 57- 72- - 43- 11.9 84 23.4 27— 28.6 35 50 55+ 70- _ 41+ 11.8 85 23.2 27- 27.8 36 48.7 54- 68- - 40— 11.6 86 22.8 26+ 27 37 47.6 52+ 66- - 38+ 11.5 87 22.6 26— 26.3 38 46.6 51 64- - 37 11.4 88 22.4 26— 25.6 39 46.5 50— 63- 36— 11.2 89 22.2 25+ »5 40 44.G 48H _ 61 34+ 334- 11.1 90 22 25— 24.4 41 48.8 47- _ 69+ 11 91 21.7 25— 23.8 42 43 46- - 68— 32— 10.9 92 21.5 24+ 23.3 43 42.2 45- - 56+ 31— 10.8 93 21.3 24— 22.7 44 41.4 44- - 55+ 30— 29— 10.6 94 21.2 24— 23+ 23-f 22.2 45 40.7 43- - 54- 10.5 95 21 21.7 46 40 42- - 53- 28— 10.4 96 20.7 21.3 47 39.3 41- - 51+ 27— 10.3 97 20.5 23- 20.8 48 38.6 . 41- 60— 27— 10.2 98 20.4 23- 20.4 49 37.9 40— 49— 26— 10.1 99 20.2 22+ ^JO 50 37.3 39 48 25 10 100 20 22 Practical Cotton Calculations 97 Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten houra Picks per Picks. per minute. ioch 20 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 146 160 83.3 87.5 91.7 95.8 100.0 104.2 108.3 112.5 116.7 120.8 125.0 22 75.8 79.5 83.3 87.1 90.9 94.7 98.5 102.3 106.1 109.8 113.6 24 69.4 72.9 76.4 79.9 83.3 86.8 90.3 93.7 97.2 100.7 104.2 26 64.1 67.3 70.5 73.7 76.9 80.1 83.3 86.6 89.7 92.9 96.2 28 59.5 62.5 65.5 68.5 71.4 74.4 77.4 80.4 83.3 86.3 89.3 30 55.6 58.3 61.1 63.9 66.7 69.4 72.2 75.0 77.8 80.6 83.3 32 52.1 54.7 57.3 59.9 62.5 65.1 67.7 70.3 72.9 75.6 78.1 34 49.0 51.5 53.9 56.4 68.8 61.3 63.7 66.2 68.6 71.1 73.5 36 46.3 48.6 50.9 53.2 65.6 57.9 60.2 62.5 64.8 67.1 69.4 38 43.9 46.1 48.2 50.4 62.6 64.8 57.0 59.2 61.4 63.6 66.8 40 41.7 43.7 45.8 47.9 60.0 62.1 54.2 56.3 58.3 60.4 62.6 42 39.7 41.7 43.7 45.6 47.6 49.6 51.6 53.6 55.6 57.5 59.5 44 37.9 39.8 41.7 43.6 45.5 47.3 49.2 51.1 53.0 549 56.8 46 36.2 38.0 39.9 41.7 43.5 45,3 47.1 48.9 50.7 52.5 54.3 48 34.7 36.5 38.2 39.9 41.7 43.4 45.1 46.9 48.6 50.3 .S2.1 60 33.3 35.0 36.7 38.3 40.0 41 7 43.3 45.0 4G.7 48,3 50.0 52 '32.1 33.7 35.3 36.9 38.5 40.1 41.7 43.3 44.9 46.6 48.1 64 30.9 32.4 34.0 35.5 37.0 38.6 40.1 41,7 43.6 44.8 46.3 56 29.8 31.3 32.7 34.2 35.7 37.2 38.7 40.2 41.7 43.2 44.6 58 28.7 30.2 31.6 33.0 34,5 35,9 37.4 38.8 40.2 41.7 43.1 60 27.8 29 2 30.6 31.9 33.3 34.7 36.1 37.5 38.9 40,3 41.7 62 26.9 2812 29.6 30.9 32.3 33.6 34.9 36.3 37.6 39.0 40.3 64 26.0 27.3 28.6 29.9 31.3 32.6 33.9 35.2 36.5 37.8 39.1 66 25.3 26.5 27.8 29.0 30.3 31.6 32.8 34.1 35.4 36.6 37.9 68 24.5 25.7 27.0 28.2 29.4 30.6 31.9 33.1 34.3 35,5 36.8 70 23.8 25.0 26.2 27.4 28.6 29.8 31.0 32.1 33.3 34.6 36.7 72 23.1 24.3 25.5 26.6 27.8 28.9 30.1 31.3 32.4 33,6 34.7 74 22.5 23.6 24.8 25.9 27.0 28.2 29.3 30.4 31.5 32.7 33.8 76 21.9 23.0 24.1 25.2 26.3 27.4 28.5 29.6 30.7 31.8 32.9 78 21.4 22.4 23.6 24.6 25.6 26.7 27.8 28.8 29.9 31,0 32.1 80 20.8 21.9 22.9 24.0 25.0 26.0 27.1 28.1 29.2 30.2 31.3 82 20.3 21.3 22.4 23.4 24.4 25.4 26.4 27.4 28.5 29.5 30.5 84 19.8 2.0.8 21.8 22.8 23.8 24.8 25.8 26.8 27.8 28.8 29.8 86 19.4 20.3 21.3 22.3 23.3 24.2 25.2 26.2 27.1 28.1 29.1 88 18.9 19.9 20.8 21.8 22.7 23,7 24.C 25.6 26,5 27,5 28.4- 90 18.5 19.4 20.4 21.3 22.2 23.1 24.1 25.0 25.9 26.9 27.8 92 18.1 19.0 19.9 20.8 21.7 22.6 23.6 24.5 25.4 26.3 27.2 94 17.7 18.6 19.5 20.4 21.3 22.2 23.0 23.9 24.8 25 7 26.6 96 17.4 18.2, 19.1 20.0 20.8 21,7 22.6 23.4 24.3 25,2 26.0 98 17.0 17.9 18.7 19.6 20.4 21 3 22.1 23.0 23.8 24.7 26.6 100 16.7 17.5 18.3 19.2 20.0 20.8 21.7 22.5 23.3 24.2 25.0 102 16.3 17.2 18.0 18.8 19.6 20.4 21.2 22.1 22.9 23.7 24.5 104 16.0 16.8 17.6 18.4 192 20.0 20.8 21.6 22.4 23.2 24.0 106 15.7 16.5 17.3 18.1 18.9 19,7 20.4 21.2 22.0 22.8 23.6 108 15.4 16.2 17.0 17.7 18.5 19.3 20.1 20.8 21.6 22.4 23.1 110 15.2 16.9 16.-7 17.4 18.2 18.9 19.7 20.5 21.2 22.0 22.7 112 14.9 16.'6 16.4 17.1 17.9 18.6 19.3 20.1 20.8 21.6 22.3 114 14.6 15.4 16.1 16.8 17.6 18.3 19.0 19.7 20.5 21.2 21.9 116 14.4 16.1 15.8 16.5 17.2 18.0 18.7 19.4 20.1 20.8 21.6 118 14.1 14.8 15.5 16.2 16.9 17.7 18.4 19.1 19.8 20.5 21.2 120 13.9 14.6 15.3 16.0 16.7 17.4 18.1 18.7 19.4 20.1 20.8 122 13.7 14.2^ 15.0 15.7 16.4 17.1 17.8 18.4 19.1 19.8 20.4 124 13.4 14.1 14.8 15.6 16.1 16.8 17.5 18.1 18.8 19.5 20.1 126 13.2 13.9 14.6 15.2 15.9 16.5 17.2 17.9 18.5 19.2 19.8 128 13.0 13.7 14.3 16.0 15.6 16.3 16.9 17.6 18.2 18.9 19.5 130 12.8 13.5 14.1 14.7 15.4 16.0 16.7 17.3 17.9 18.6 19.2 134 12.4 13.1 13.7 14.3 14.9 15.5 16.2 16.8 17.4 18.U 18.7 136 12.3 12.9 13.6 14.1 14 7 15.3 15.9 16.5 17.2 17.8 18.4 140 11.9 12.6 13.1 13.7 14.3 14 9 15.5 16.1 16.7 17.3 17.9 144 11.6 12.2 12.7 13.3 13.9 14.5 15.0 15.6 16.2 16.8 17.4 146 11.4 12.0 12.6 13.1 13 ■? 13.3 14.3 14.8 15.4 16.0 16.6 17.1 160 11.1 11.7 12.2 12.8 13.9 14.4 16.0 15.6 16.1 16.7 154 10.8 11.4 11,9 12.4 13.0 13.6 14.1 14.6 15.2 15.7 16.2 J 66 10.7 11.2 11^ 12.3 12.8 13.4 13.9 14.4 15.0 15.5 16,0 160 10.4 10.9 11.5 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.5 14.1 14.6 15.1 15.6 164 10.2 10.7 11.2 11.7 12.2 12.7 13.2 13.7 14.2 14.7 15.2 166 10.0 10.5 11.0 11.5 12.0 12.6 13.1 13.5 14.1 14.6 15.1 170 9^ 10.3 10.8 11.3 11.8 12.3 12.7 13.2 13.7 14.2 14.7 174 9.6 10.1 10.5 11.0 n.5 12.0 12.5 12.9 13.4 13.9 14.4 176 9.6 9.9 10.4 10.9 11.4 11.8 12.3 12.8 13.3 13.7 14.2 180 9.3 9.7 10.2 10.6 11.1 11.6 12.0 12.5 13.0 13.4 13.9 98 Practical Cottox Calcuiatioxs Yards of Cloth per loom per day of ten hours. Piciu 1 >l>er inrh. •»» Picks per m!Dut«. 1 80 155 160 165 170 175 180 1500 185 154.2 190 195 1(3276 200 166.7 nor, 170.8 129.2 133.3 137.5 141.7 145.8 158.3 22 117.4 121.2 125.0 128.8 132.6 136.4 140.2 143.9 147.7 151.5 155.3 24 107.6 111.1,114.6 118.1 121.5 125.0 128.5 131.9 135.4 138.0 142.4 26 09.4 102.6 105.8 109.0 112.2 115.4 118.6 121.8 125.0 128.2 131.4 28 02.3 95.2 08.2 101.2 104.2 107.1 110.1 113.1 116.1 1 1 0.0 122.0 30 86.1 88 9 01.7 94.4 97.2 100.0 102.8 105.5 108.3 111.1 113.9 32 80.7 83.3 85.9 88.5 01.1 93.7 96.4 90.0 101.6 104.2 106.8 34 76.0 78.4 80.9 83.3 85.8 88.2 90.7 03.1 95.6 9H.0 J 00.5 36 71.8 74.1 76.4 78.7 81.0 83.3 85.6 88.0 90.3 02.6 94.9 38 68.0 70.2 72.4 74.6 76.8 78.9 81.1 83.3 85.5 87.7 89.9 40 64.6 60.7 68.7 70.8 72.9 75.0 77.1 70.2 81.3 83.3 85.4 42 61.5 63.5 65.5 67.5 60.4 71.4 73.4 75.4 77.4 79.4 81.3 44 58.7 60.6 62.5 64.4 66.3 68.2 70.1 72.0 73.9 75.8 77.7 46 56.2 58.0 50.8 61.6 63.4 65.2 67.0 68.8 70.7 72.5 74.3 48 53.8 55.6 57.3 59.0 (;o.8 62.5 64.2 66.0 67.7 09.4 71.2 no 51.7 53.3 55.0 56.7 58.3 60.0 61.7 63.3 65.0 66.7 08.3 52 40.7 51.3 52.9 54.5 56.1 57.7 59.3 60.9 62.5 64.1 65.7 54 47.8 49.4 50.0 52.5 54.0 55.6 57.1 58.6 60.2 61.7 63.3 56 46.1 47.6 40.1 50.6 52.1 53.6 55.1 56.5 58.0 50.5 61.0 58 44.5 46.() 47.4 48.8 50.3 51.7 53.2 54.6 56.0 57.5 58.9 CO 43.1 44.4 45.8 47.2 48.6 50.0 61.4 52.8 54.2 65.6 56.9 62 41.7 43.0 44.4 45.7 47.0 48.4 49.7 51.1 52.4 53.8 55.1 64 40.4 41.7 43.0 44.3 45.6 46.0 48.2 49.5 50.8 52.1 53.4 66 39.1 40.4 41.7 42.9 44.2 45.5 46.7 48.0 49.2 50.5 61.8 68 38.0 30.2 40.4 41.7 42.9 44.1 45.3 46.6 47.8 49.0 50.2 70 36.0 38.1 30.3 40.5 41.7 42.9 44.0 45.2 46.4 47.6 48.8 72 35.0 37.0 38.2 39.4 40.5 41.7 42.8 44.0 45.1 46.3 47.5 74 34.9 36.0 37.2 38.3 39.4 40.5 41.7 42.8 43.9 45.0 40.2 76 34.0 35.1 36.2 37.3 38.4 39.5 40.6 41.7 42.8 43.9 45.0 78 33.1 34.2 35.3 36.3 37.4 38.5 39.5 40.6 41.7 42.7 43.8 80 32.3 33.3 34.4 35.4 36.5 37.5 38.5 39.6 40.0 41.7 42.7 82 31.5 32.5 33.5 34.6 35.6 30.0 37.6 38.6 39.6 40.7 41.7 84 30.S 31.7 32.7 33.7 34.7 35.7 36.0 37.7 38.7 39.7 40.7 86 30.0 31.0 32.0 32.9 33.9 34.9 35.8 36.8 37.8 38.8 39.7 88 29.4 30.3 31.3 32.2 33.1 34.1 35.0 36.0 36.9 37.9 38.8 90 2S.7 29.6 30.6 31.5 32.4 33.3 34.3 35.2 36.1 37.0 38.0 •J2 28.1 29.0 20.0 30.8 31.7 32.6 33.5 34.4 35.3 30.2 37.1 !)4 27.5 28.4 20.3 30.1 31.0 31.9 32.8 33.7 34.6 35.5 .36.3 06 26.9 27.8 28.6 29.5 30.4 31.3 32.1 33.0 33.9 34.7 35.6 98 20.4 27.2 28.1 28.9 20.8 30.6 31.5 32.3 33.2 34.0 34.9 lOO 25.8 26.7 27.5 28.3 20.2 30.0 30.8 31.7 32.5 33.3 34.4 102 25.3 26.1 27.0 27.8 28.6 29.4 30.2 31.0 81.9 32.7 33.6 104 24.8 25.6 26.4 27.2 28.0 28.8 29.6 30.4 31.3 32.1 32.9 106 24.4 2.-. 2 25.9 26.7 27.5 28.3 29.1 20.9 30.7 31.4 32.2 108 23.9 24.7 25.5 2(i.2 27.0 27.8 28.5 20.3 30.1 30.0 31.6 no 23.5 24.2 25.0 25.:8 26.5 27.3 28.0 28.8 29.5 30.3 31.1 112 23.1 23.8 24.6 25.3 26.0 20.8 27.5 28.3 29.0 29.8 30.5 114 22.7 23.4 24.1 24.9 25.0 26.3 27.0 27.8 28.5 29.2 30.0 116 22.3 23.0 23.7 24.4 25.1 25.9 26.6 27.3 28.0 28.7 20.5 118 21.0 22.6 23.3 24.0 24.7 25.4 26.1 20.8 27.5 28.2 29.0 190 21.5 22.2 22.0 23.0 24.3 25.0 25.7 26.4 27.1 27.8 28.6 122 21.2 21.9 22.5 23.2 23.9 24.0 25.3 26.0 26.0 27.3 28.0 124 20.8 21.5 22.2 22.8 23.5 24.2 24.9 25.5 26.2 26.9 27.6 126 20.5 21.2 21.8 22.5 23.1 23.8 24.5 25.1 25.8 20.5 27.1 128 20.2 20.8 21.5 22.1 22.8 23.4 24.1 24.7 25.4 26.0 26.7 130 19.9 20.5 21.2 21.8 22.4 23.1 23.7 24.4 25.0 25.6 26.3 134 19.3 19.9 20.5 21.1 21.8 22.4 23.0 23.6 24.3 24.9 26.5 136 19.0 19.6 20.2 20.8 21.4 22.1 22.7 23.3 23.9 24.5 25.1 140 18.5 10.0 10.6 20.2 20.8 21.4 22.0 22.6 23.2 23.8 24.4 144 17.9 18.5 10.1 19.7 20.3 20.8 21.4 22.0 22.6 23.1 23.7 146 17.7 18.3 18.8 19.4 20.0 20.5 21.1 21.7 22.3 22.8 23.4 150 17.2 17.8 18.3 18.9 10.4 20.0 20.6 21.1 21.7 22.2 22.8 154 16.8 17.3 17.0 18.4 18.9 19.5 20.0 20.6 21.1 21.6 22.2 156 16.6 17. 1 17.6 18.2 18.7 19.2 19.8 20.3 20.8 21.4 21.9 160 164 16.1 16.7 17.2 17.7 18.2 18.7 10.3 10.8 20.3 20.8 21.4 15.8 16.3 16.8 17.3 17.8 18.3 18.8 19.3 19.8 20.3 20.8 166 15.6 '16.1 16.6 17.1 17.6 18.1 18.6 19.1 19.6 20.1 20.6 170 174 15.2 15.7 16.2 16.7 17.2 17.6 18.1 18.0 19.1 19.6 20.1 14.8 15.4 15.8 16.3 16.8 17.2 17.7 18.2 18.7 19.2 19.6 176 14.7 15.2 15.6 16.1 16.6 17.0 17.5 18.0 18.5 18.9 19.4 180 14.4 14.8 15.3 15.7 16.2 16.7 17.l| 17.6 18.1 ii^.r, JjuJ CLOTH PRODUCTION To Find Production of Cloth per Week of 48, 54, 56, 58 or 60 Hours, at Any Desired % from 50 to 100, Running in 5's. Rule 82. Multiply the speed of the loom by the constant desired in the following list and divide by the number of picks per inch. PeriCen't. of pro- duction 50 Constant to use for t8 hours 40 Constant to use for 54 hours 45 Constant to use for 5i6 hours 46 2-3 Constant to use for 5'8 hours 48 1-3 Constant to use for 60 hours 50 55 44 49.5 511-3 53 1-6 55 60 48 54 56 58 60 65 52 58.5 60 2-3 62 5-8 65 70 56 63 65 1-3 67 2-3 70 75 60 67.5 70 731/3 75 80 64 72 ■ 74 2-3 771-3 80 85 68 76.5 79 1-3 82 1-6 85 90 72 81 84 87 90 95 76 85.5 88 2-3 915-6 95 100 80 90 93 1-3 96 2-3 100 Example. What is the production in yards per week of 48 hours of a loom running 160 picks per minute, weaving a cloth with 120 picks per inch, at 80% ? 160 picks X 64 constant = 85 1-3 yards, ^n.f. 120 picks per inch The preceding constants are based on the following: 100 Practical Cottox Calculations 60 minutes X hours per week X % production 36 inches per yard The cloth production tables on pages 97 and 98 are based on 100% production for 10 hours, no allowance being made for stoppages. Owing to the tables being computed for 10 hours, they are very convenient when requirng To Find % Production of a Loom when Hours Run, Speed of Loom, Picks per Inch and Actual Production in Yards Are Known. Rule 83. Multiply picks per inch by yards produced and by .6, and divide by speed of lloom and number of hours run. The .6 is obtained by dividing 36 inches per yard by 60 minutes per hour. Example. The actual production of a loom running 150 picks per minute, weaving a cloth with 80 picks pet inch, is 23 yards, in 10 hours. . What is the % produc- tion? 80 picks per inch X ~3 yards X .6 = 73.6%, Ans. 150 speed of loom X 10 To Find Production of Cloth, in Yards per Loom, for Any Number of Hours, at Any Desired %. Rule 84. Multiply the production for 10 hours at 100% (see tables, pages 97 and 98) by the number of hours run and the % of production desired, and divide by 10. Practical Cottox Calculatioxs 101 Example. A cloth with 60 picks per inch is desired to be woven on a loom running 160 picks per minute. What would be the production per week of 58 hours at 80%? According to the table the production for 10 hours at 100% would be 44.4 yards, therefore 44.4 yards X 58 hours X .80 —^ = 206 yds., A ns. 10 hours Rule 82 may be used To Find the Number of Cuts per Loom per Week by dividing the number of yards per week by the length of the cut. LOOM CALCULATIONS To Find Constant to Use for Any Loom Take- Up Motion. Rule 85. Multiply all the driven gears together and divide by alii the drivers multiplied fof/ether. The circumference of the sand roller in inches is con- sidered a driver. If the motion takes up every two picks, the driven gears should be multiplied by 2. It is customary to allow a certain % for the difference between the picks per inch in the cloth while in the loom and after leaving the loom. This may be done by deducting a certain %, varying from 1 to 3%, accord- ing to the motion used, from the circumference of the sand roller. 102 Practical Cottox Calculations To Find Change Gear or Picks per Inch on Looms where the Change Gear is a Driver, when Constant is Known. Rule 86. Divide the constant by jAcks per inch to pnd change gear. Divide constant by change gear to find picks per inch. When the change gear is a driver, the constant is always a dividend. To Find Change Gear of Picks per Inch on Looms where the Change Gear is a Driven Gear, when Constant is Known. Rule 87. Divide picks per inch by constant to find change gear. Multiply change gear by constant to find picks per inch. The sand roller gear and every alternate gear from that are driven gears. All the remaining gears are drivers. SPEED CALCULATIONS To Find Speed of Shafting, when Diameter of Driving Pulley, Diameter of Loom Pulley, and Speed of Loom Are Known. Rule 88. Multiply diameter of loom pulley by speed of loom, and divide by diameter of driving pulley. Example. What is the speed of shafting required to run a loom 145 picks per minute, with a 14-inch pulley on the loom and a 7-inch pulley on the shaft? 14-inch pulley on loom X 145 picks per minute 7-inch pulley on shaft = 290 revolutions per minute, Ans. PUACTICAI. COTTOX CaT-CULATIOXS 103 To Find Diameter of Driving Pulley, when Speed of Shafting, Diameter of Loom Pulley, and Speed of Loom Are Known. Rule 89. Multiply diameter of loom pulley by speed of loom, and divide by speed of shaftiny. Example. What diameter of pulley will be required on a shaft running 290 revolutions per minute to run a loom 145 picks per minute with a 14-inch pulley? 14-inch pullej^ X 145 picks per min. Tr~r — ;- — ~7 = 7 ins. diameter of 390 R. P. M. , . . driving pulley, ^«s. To Find Diameter of Loom Pulley, when Speed of Loom, Speed of Shafting, and Diameter of Driving Pulley Are Known. Rule 90. Multiply speed of shafting by diameter of driviny pulley, and divide by speed of loom. Example. A loom is required to run 145 picks per minute. The speed of the shaft is 290 R. P. M. and the diameter of the pulley on the shaft is 7 inches. What diameter of loom pulley will be required? 290 R. P. M. X T ins. driving pulley 7TZ 7~, : = 14 ins. diameter of 14o picks per min. loom pulley, Ans. 104 Practical Coitox Caixulatioxs To Find Speed of Loom, when Speed of Shaft- ing, Diameter of Driving Pulley, and Diameter of Loom Pulley Are Known. Rule 91. Multiply speed of ahaft'tnf/ by diameter of driving pulley, and divide by diameter of loom pulley. Example. What will be the speed of a loom with a 14-inch pulley, the speed of shafting- being; 290 R. P, M. and the diameter of the driving pulley T inches? 290 R. P. M. X T ins. driving pulley ■ 77"; — ; t: =■ 115 picks per min., 14-in. loom pulley A ns. The four preceding rules, 88 to 91, may be summar- ized in the follow^ing — Formula D. To Find Speed of Shafting, Diameter of Driving Pulley, Diameter of Loom Pulley, or Speed of Loom. Speed of shafting X diameter of driving pulley is equal to Diameter of loom pulley X speed of loom. Rule. Divide the product of the remaining items of the gro-up containing the required item into the product of the other group. When the numbers foimd are too large for practical purposes, use smaller numbers that are in direct ratio with them. COST CALCULATIONS To Find Weaving Cost per Yard when Week- ly Rate and Production Are Known. Rule 92. Divide the weekly rate by the production in yards per week. Example. If the production of a loom is 150 yards per week, the weekly rate $19.50, and the looms per set 5, what would be the weaving price per yard of cloth? 150 yards X 5 looms =z 750 yards per week $19.50 weekly rate 750 yds. per week = $.0-?6 weaving cost per yd., A ns. $19.50 or = $3.90 per loom 5 looms $3.90 1= $.026 weaving cost per yard., Arts. 150 yards per loom To Find Weaving Cost per Cut when Weekly- Rate, Length of Cut, and Production per Week Are Known. Rule 93. Multiply the weekly rate by the length of cut and divide by the production per week. Using the preceding example what would be the weaving cost per cut of 100 yards? 106 Practical Cottox Calculations $19.50 weekly rate X 100 yds. cut length . = $2.60 weaving 750 yds. production per week ^ost per cut, A ns. To Find Cost per Yard for Oversigfht when Production and Oversight per Loom per Week Are Known. Rule 94. Divide the oversight per looin by the pro- duction. ExA3iPLE. If a plain loom produces 160 yards per week, and the oversight per loom per week is 62 cents, what would be the oversight cost per yard? $.6-2 oversight =$,0039 oversight per j'^ard, Ans. 160 yards To Find General Expense per Yard when Production and General Expense per Loom per Week Are Known. Rule 95. Diinde the general expense per loom by the production. Example. If a loom produces 145 yards per week, and the genral expense per loom is $3.48, what would be the cost per yard for general expense? $3.48 =$.024 general expense per yd., Ans. 145 yards To Find General Expense per Pound of Cloth when General Expense per Loom, Yards per Week per Loom and Number of Yards per Pound Are Known. Rule 96. MuUipIiy the general expense per loom by Practical Cotton Calculations 107 the number of yards per pound and divide by the nmm-- ber of yards per "week. Example. If the general expense in a mill is esti- mated ai $3.60 per loom per week, what would be the general expense per pound of a piece of cloth 5.3 yards per pound produced at the rate of 130 yards per week per loom? $3.60 general expense per loom X 5.3 yards per lb 130 yards per week = $.1468 general expense per lb., Ans. To Find Cost of Stock per Pound of Cloth, in a Cloth Containing more than One Qual- ity of Cotton and More than One Counts of Yarn when Cost of Cotton per Pound and % of Each Counts of Yarn Are Known. Rule 97. Multiply the % of each yarn by the cost of cotton per pound. Add results. Example. A cloth contains 37% of 18c. cotton and 63% of 24c. cotton. What is the cost of stock per pound of cloth? 37% or .37 X .18 = $.0666 63% or .63 X .24 = .1512 .$.2178 per lb., Ans. To Find Cost of Yarns per Cut when Weight and Cost per Pound of Each Are Known. Rule 98. Multiply the weight of each by the cost per pound. Add results. 108 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs Example. A cloth contains 5 lbs. of warp and ^^/^ lbs. of filling. If the warp costs 36c. and the filling 38c. per lb., what would be the cost of the yarns in the cloth? 5 lbs. warp X $.36 = $1 .80 4.5 lbs. warp X .38= 1.75 $3.55, Ans. To Find Cost of Yams per Yard of Cloth when Total Cost of Cut and Length of Cut are Known. Rule 99. Divide the cost per cut by the length. Example. The yarn in a cut of cloth 100 yards long cost $7.60. What is the cost of the yarns per yard of cloth? $7.60 $.076 cost of yarns per yard, Ans. 100 yards To Find Cost of Yams in a Warp when Counts, Length, Number of Ends and Price per Pound Are Known. Rule 100. Multiply the length of the warp in yards by the immber of ends in the warp and the price per pound and divide by 84O and the yarn counts. ExA3iPLE. A cotton warp 1200 yards long contains 2700 ends of 35's yarn. The yarn price is 5-?c. per pound. What is the cost of the warp? 2700 ends X 1200 yards X $.52 = $57.32, Ans. 840 X 35's warp counts Practical Cotton Calculatioxs 109 To Find Cost of Filling in a Piece of Cloth when Length of Piece, Width in Reed, Picks, Counts, and Price per Pound of Filling Are Known. Rule 101. Multiply length of piece by "width in reed, picks per inch and price per pound, and divide by 840 and the filling counts. Example. A cut of cloth 56 yards long is woven 30 inches wide in the reed with TO picks per inch of 40's filling. The cost of the filling is 50 cents per pound. What is the cost of the filling per cut? 56 yards X 30 inches in reed X 70 pick X .50 840 X 40's filling counts :==: $1,750 cost of filling, Ans. COSTS OF CLOTH In cloth mills the product from which the income is realized is cloth, therefore an important branch of tex- tile caluclations in a cloth mill consists in estimating costs of cloth. The cost of a piece of cloth, which is figured a4 so much per yard, or so much per pound, or both, is usually estimated in the office from items furnished by the various overseers. As all textile calculations enter either directly or in- directly into, and lead up to the final cost of the cloth, the rules in the earlier part of this book are given, al- though all of them are not necessary for any one piece of cloth. 110 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs The preceding rules have been given so that any one item may be found with verj' little trouble, and it is in- tended in the succeeding pages to show how the cost of any cloth may be ascertained. As the methods of estimating costs vary in different mills, one method only will be explained here; part of the items dealt with in explaining this, or other items calculated from them, are usually required in every mill. For convenience in dealing with mill calculations it is customary to use what are termed blanks, upon which are printed various items. Against these items overseers of the various departments write out the necessary data. In the system to be explained here it will ftrst be shown how the various items necessary to fill out the weave- room blank are obtained, then how the total cost per yard and per pound of cloth are estimated. In the following blank the words and figures shown in italic type are supposed to be printed. The remaining figures and letters show the data necessary for the pro- duction of a certain piece of cloth, which will be taken as an example in explaining the items and how they are obtained. Practical Cottox Calculations 111 System of Filling: Out Blank with Weave Room Data for a Piece of Cloth. BLANK NUMBER 1 1. Pattern number. 26. 2. Kind of cloth. Leno. 56 3. Sleij. ^_ 4' Pick. 80. 5. Warp counts, No. of ends of each, and contraction and size. 200 ends 4/32's, 20% contraction. 300 ends 2/32's, 15% contraction. 2184 ends 50's, 10% contraction and size. 6. Filling counts. 60's. 7. Width of cloth. 28 inches. *S'. Width in reed. 30 inches. 9. Yards per pound. 6.02. 10. Looms per set, 4. 11. Speed. 150. 12. Per cent, of production. 80. 13. Weekly rate. $20.00. 1//. Yards per iceek (48 hours). 120. 15. Weaving cost per yard. $.0417. 16. Counts and weight of yarn in 100 yards of cloth. Warp. 4/32's, 3.56 pounds. 2/32's, 2.56 50's, 5.72 17. Filling. 60's, 4.76 18. 16.60 pounds, Total weight in 100 yards of cloth. 112 Practical Cottox Calculatioks Explanation of Items in Weave Room Blank 1. Pattern number. This item will readily explain itself. 2. Kind of cloth. Against this is placed leno, plain, bedford cord, etc., according to style made. 3 and ^. 8ley and pick. These are found from the cloth to be made by the designer, or by the weave room overseer, if the latter does the designing. The count oi the cloth mentioned here is 5Q X80. The 128 shown under the sley reed represents the average sley, and is found from items 5 and 7 by Rule 51 as follows: 3584 total ends =128 average sley. 28 ins. width of cloth The average count of the cloth is 128 X 80. 5. Warp counts, number of ends of each, and con- traction and size. The warp counts are usually found by comparison, as explained on page 12, or by weighing as in Rule 1. The number of ends of each counts are ob- tained by Rule 25. The amount to allow for contraction and size are estimated by the designer. Ply cotton yards are not usually sized. 6. Filling counts. If the weight of the cloth is of secondary importance, which is usually the case in fancy cotton goods, the filling is varied, if necessary, until a counts is obtained that makes the appearance of the cloth satisfactory. When the counts of the filling is decided upon in this manner, the yards per pound, item 9, may Practical Cottox Calculations 113 be found by Rule 68, after finding item 18. See exam- ple after explanation of item 9, If items 5 and 9 are found before the filling- counts, the latter may be found from items 4, 8 and 17 by Rule 37. Example. 80 pick X 30 in. at reed X 100 yds. — — = 60's counts of filline 840 X 4.76 lbs. of filling ^ Note how the weight of the filling, item 17, is ob- tained. 7. Width of cloth. This is usually given to the de- signer by the superintendent. S. Width at reed. This may be found from items 3 and 7 by Rule 63. Example. 56 sley X ^8 inches width of cloth 26.19 dents per inch in reed X 3 ends per dent = 29.93 inches, say 30 inches width in reed In the table on page 68 a 56 sley gives 26.19 dents per inch in the reed. In dealing with the contraction of a fancy cloth it is necessary that a person shall have considerable practical experience before he can judge what to allow for con- traction, and it is advisable that the notes on pages 62 to 66 be thoroughly understood and borne in mind. 9. Number of yards 'per pound. Cloths are some- times made to a certain weight and the counts of yarns varied to make this weight; other cloths are made with given yarns and the weight figured from these. In both these methods item 5 is usually found in the same man- ner. 114 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs If items 5 and the weight of the cloth are known, the filling, item 6, may be found from items 4, 8 and 17 by Rule 37. See example after explanation of item 6. If item 18 is known, item 9 may be figured from this by Rule 68. Example. Item, 18 gives 16.60 lbs. of yarn in 100 yards of cloth. 100 yards = 6.0^ yards per lb. 16.60 lbs. Item 10. Looms jyer set; 11. Speed of loom; 12. Per cent, production; and 13. Weekly rate; are all estimated according to the width of cloth, quality of yarn, type of loom, and difficulty of pattern. It is while running a sample that any difficulties that are liable to be met with later in making an order of goods like the sample should be noted. The probable diffiiculties cannot always be noticed when making the sample, but should be when possible because the less the production, from any cause, the more the cost. If the actual production falls below that estimated, the margin between the eost and selling price gets smaller. Item 13 is mutually fixed! by the head official and weave room overseer. 14. Yards per week. This may be found from items 4, 11, and U by Rule 84. 15. Weaving cost per yard. This may be found from items 10, 13 and 14 by Rule 92. Example, 130 yards X 4 looms = 480 yards pe^ week from 4 looms. Practical Cottox Calculations 115 $30 weekly rate -f- 480 yards = $.0417 weaving cost per yard. 16. Counts and weight of warp yarns in 100 yards of cloth. The counts of warp are obtained as stated in ex- planation of item 5. The weight is obtained from item 5 and length by Rule 17. Example. 800 ends X 100 yards --— — — -— =2.97 + 20% =3.56 pounds of 840 X 32's counts ^^^^,^ or, 800 ends X 130 yards = 3.56 lbs. of 4/32's 840 X 32's counts Note. The length of 100 yards is taken instead of 1 yard because it does not deal with so many small amounts, and instead of any other number between 1 and 100 because fewer figures are dealt with. When multi- plying by 100, it is only necessary to add 2 ciphers at the rig^it of the multiplicand, or to move the point 2 places to the right if the decimal fraction. 17. Weight of filling in 100 yards of cloth. This is figured out from items 4, 6 and 8 by Rule 34. Example. 80 pick X 30 ins. X 100 yds. — — = 4.76 lbs. weight of fiUina;. 840 X 60's counts If item 6 is not known, item 17 may be found by de- ducting the combined weights of the warps from the weight of the cut, item 18. The loss by waste was not considered in the above examples when finding items 16 and 17. The waste item is usually added in the oifice when computing the cost. 116 Practical Cottox Calculations 18. Weight of cut. Say 100 yards. This may be found by adding items 16 and 17 together, or by divid- ing the length of cut by item 9, the number of yards pei pound. Item 13 may be said to cover the weaving cost of cloth. To this must be added other costs which are nec- essary; these wliich are computed and arranged in the office are here numerically arranged as follows: 19. Oversight per loom per week. '20. Cost of stock. 2\. Cost of labor in making yarn. 22. General expense per loom per week. Explanation of Items to Be Had in Office 19. Oversight i:)er loom per week. These are probable expenses in the weave room to pay for overseer, fixers, all day help other than weavers, and supplies. This is a fixed figure, estimated at so much per loom, based on previous reports, say for six months, and verified and corrected from time to time. The oversight varies In different mills according to the time run, and efficiency of the help and management; 84c. for fancy, and Q2c. for plain looms will be considered here for oversight. 20. Co.H of Stock. Against this is marked the pre- vailing price of raw material of the quality of cotton used. 31. Cost of labor in making yarns. This is computed from production sheets, pay rolls and reports of the over- seers of the various departments from the picker to the spinning room, and is stated at so much per pound. Practical Cotton Calculations 117 Items 20 and 31 may be shown together on a blank in the office, along with the counts of the yarns, as follows : BLANK NUMBER 2 Cost of Yams per Pound Counts Stock Quality Price Labor Total 4/33 A. 11/8 ins. 34c. 9.4c. 33.4c. 2/33 A. l%ins. 34c. 9.8c. 33.8c. 50's B. 11/4 ins. 38c. 13.4c. 40.4c. GO'S B. 114 ins. 38c. 14.7c. 43.7c. The above blank only shows the items necessary for the cloth given here as an example. In the mill it would contain all the counts of yarn that they were making. Blank No. 3 takes in cost of spooling, slashing and warping, and represents the cost of the yarn deliverd in the weave room. 22. General expense. This is an approximate future expense estimated at a certain amount per loom per week, and is intended to cover all general expenses, be- yond those already indicated, incurred before the cloth reaches the buyer. It includes costs for taxes, insurance, interest, salaries, supplies, sundries, engineers, yard help, .watchman, lighting, oil, power, otfice expenses, cloth room, etc., and varies in most mills. The general expense will here be assumed to be $3.G0 per loom per week. With the data shown on blanks 1 and 3, and the price per week per loom for oversight and general expense known, the following method is adopted to arrive at the cost per yard and per pound of cloth. 118 Practical Cotton Calculations Rule 98 is first applied to find cost of yarns per cut, from the items 16, 20 and i21. Example. 3.56 lbs. 4/32 at 33.4c. = 1.18904 2.56 lbs. 2/32 at 33.8c. = .86528 5.72 lbs. 50's at 40.4c. = 2.21088 4.76 lbs. 60's at 42.7c. = 2.03252 16.60 lbs. total weight $6.39772 total cost of yarns per 100 yds. per 100 yards of cloth This would be considered as $6.40. Rule 99 is next applied to find cost of yarns per yard of cloth. Example. $6.40 cost per cut $.064 or 6.4c. cost of yarns per yard ^^^y^'' of cloth Rule 94 is next applied to find cost per yard for over, sight. Example. 84c. oversight per loom per week =. .5792c. oversight per 145 yards per loom per week j Rule 95 is next applied to find cost per yard for gen- eral expense. Example. $3.60 genl. expense per loom per week =: 2.48c. general ex- 145 yards per loom per week _ ^ ^^^ , •^ ^ ^ pense per yd. Practical Cottox Calculations 119 Although the cost per yard for oversight and general expense may be found in one problem by adding the amount per week for each tog-ether and dividing by the number of yards per week, the above method is usually adopted so that either one may be referred to again if required. It is now only necessary to add the various costs per yard together. Summary of Costs per Yard of Cloth Weaving, 3.448c. Yarns, 6.4 Oversight, .5792 General expense, 2.48 13.9072c. cost per yard. The cost per pound of cloth may now be found by multiplying the cost per yard by the number of yards per pound ExA3iPLE. 12.9072c. cost per yard X 6.02 yards per pound = 77.70c. cost per pound of cloth. In a cloth mill where the yarn is bought on warp beams and cops or bobbins, the counts and price per pound would be required instead of blank No. 2. If the yarn is bought in cone or skein fonn the costs entailed during the various processes necessary before it reaches the loom must be considered. There is no extra cost entailed on filling yarn from the time it leaves the spinning frame or mule to the time that it reaches the weaver, beyond the cost of handling it. Yarn intended for warp must undergo several proc- esses before it can be made into cloth, the principal of which are spooling, twisting, if for ply yarns, warping, slashing and drawing-in. 130 Practical Cottok Calculatioxs o o CO -^ o •— 1 in oi — I T^ r^ o CM lo c^ t>- • • ■oa)C3ioooor^\otCLr5ir5-^rocMCM'- « ■^C O CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CMOiino o -^ o •^ •— ' CO 5£> .— 1 m a> CM <£) 05 CM <£nr>t>~oo ■ • ■ oi 00 00 1--^ t^ «£> in LO -^ CO CO CM — ' •— • coco coco COCQCOC O COCO C OCOCO CO ■^CMOIlOO O -^ O -rf 00 CO >— ' •— ' Lf3 Oi cm in 00 vor^r^oooi • ■ ■ oo r^ t^ to mm in tr co cm cm •— < o CO CO CO CO CO CO C O CO CO CO CO CO CO r^mcMoimo O'^CTsmo^coc^-^moocvjio «ct>-oooooio • • -r^tomm -^ ■^cococM'— If— lO J— ^ cocococococococococococo (xTbctricod^Tno omai-^ocot^omcji-H <£' c~- DC oi a> o •— I • • -tom-^-^-^cocMCM.— lOO T^'r! cocococococococ ococo co .— 'OCT.^coo^mo omoi-^oocot^^HLnoo 00 OOOOOIOO — CM • • • m -^ CO CO CM CM ■— " I— 1 o o^ r:LT' ^T^ CO CO CO CO cojo co co co cm_ CM CM •— • o^ <£> CO OMo o omo -^oocor^ •-• -^ t^ 00 CTl Cr> O -H ^- cm CO • • • Tf CO CO CM •— ' -^ O O 05 _ _— ■ —^ —'.—■.— I CO CO C O coco CO CO COCM_ .^ -^ CO CM o r-^ CO 05 LO o o m> o Tj" 00 CO t^ •— 1 t~-'0C05O>— ■— -CvICMCOtJ- • • •COCMCM^-OOCT^CJJ — I ^H — I •-^•— -^ •— ' COCO CO CO CO CO CM CM mtDLOTj-coot-^coo)Loo o-^o-^oocMt^ t^OOOiO-— 'CMC^JCOCO-ctm • • -CM-— '•— 'OCnOV 00 ^ ■— ._i.— o>o • • -r^to ■— •— ' — '_— ' T- T — II— II — "—ii— 11— I — CM CM CM ocom'-ototrj-^co— loSmcMoo-^OLOo o oooio— icMco-*mooi— i' • • -to ^- — <— <^~i— I— I.— 11— II — . ^^^^ I— .CM C M CM CM CM'S'tOtDdooOC^lO-^i— 'O^lOC^JOO-^OlOO ooctjo — c-ico-^LOtor^r^occy>050— I— iCM • • • .— 11— I.— 1^~ — ^^r-i^-— I— ..— i.-i Cv]CMr -]CM CMmt^O-O. CftOV00VCCM00-^OLbo OOOO^-CvlCO-^mtDr^OOOOCT. OO— iCMCMCO • • ;— ' •— — I — — I ^^ ^ ^- —'_^^^^ Csl CM CM CM CM CM cotooooi-ii— ■— '00>t^Lnc^]b5 to'cM oo m- o m o OOOlOCMCT'frLOtDtC't^OCO'-OvOi— ii— iCMCOCO-a* • J^- ■— I .—I I— I —I —I 'T^J-^ — '^^ CM Cv) CM CM Cv) C^l C M CO^~tj-j— iCMCOCOCM — OtaOLOCMOi tOCM OO^ oTo O COOlOCMCO-rrmtDt^OCOOa-. OO'-iCMCMCO-^-riO — I I— I — . ^^ ■— I — ■ — .— I.— --iCMCMCMCMCMCMCMCMCM 8 >^2 APPENDIX SPINDLES SINCE 1849 FOR Cotton, Wool and Silk A. A. WESTCOTT &SONS HOPEDALE, MASSACHUSETTS USEFUL NOTES ON COTTON SPINNING MACHINERY Bale Breakers. Floor space, 36 in. machine, 9 ft. 6 in. X 6 ft. 6 in. Driving- pulleys, 14 in. X 3 in. Speed, 300 revs, per min. Production, 3000 lb. American per hour. Power, li/o I. H. P. PoRCurixE Opexer. Floor space, 9 ft. X 6 ft. Driv- ing pulleys, 16 in. X 3yo in. Speed, 320 revs, per min. Production, 1400 lb. per hour. Power, 2 I. H. P. Hopper Feeder. Floor space, 36 in. machine, 7 ft. 3 in. X 5 ft. Driving pulleys, 10 in. X 3 in. Speed, 300 revs, per min. Production, 600O lb. per hour. Openers. Vertical type. Floor space: Single opener, 10 ft. 6 in. X 5 ft. 6 in.; double opener, 16 ft. X 5 ft. 6 in. Driving pulleys, 13 in. X 5 in. Speed of beaters, 1000 revs, per min. Production, 5000 to 6000 lbs. per hour. Power: Single opener, 4 I. H. P.; double opener, 8 I. H. P. Openers. Horizontal type, with large cylinder, 18 in. beater and two sets of cages. Floor space: Single opener, 19 ft. X 6 ft. (38 in. lap); single opener and scutcher combined, 3.3 ft, X 7 ft. Driving pulleys: Cylinder, 20 in. X 5Vo in. Beater, 1-2 in. X ■iV2 in. Speeds: Cylinder, 4.50 to 500 revs, per min. for American, 300 to 350 revs, per. min. for Egyptian and Sea Island. Power: Single opener, 5 I. H. P.; single opener and scutcher combined, 9 I. H. P. 124 Practical Cotton Calculations FixisHER Lappers. FlooT space of lappers with 1 fan and 1 beater and lap machine for 40 in. cards, about 14 ft. X 6 ft. 6 in. With 2 fans and 3 beaters and lap machine for 40 in. cards, aboiit 20 ft. 6 in. X 6 ft. 6 in. Driving pulley, 10 in. X 4.i/o in. Speed of beater and fan, from 1200 to 1500 revs, per min. Production, 200 to 250 lbs. per hour. Power: Single beater, 3%^ I, H. P.; double beater, 7 I. H. P. To find diameter of jjulleif on beater shaft: Speed of beater X diameter of countershaft pulley for divisor. Revolutions of main driving shaft X diameter of driving drum on main shaft X drum on countershaft for divi- dend = pulley on beater shaft. To find speed of fan icken driven from beater: Speed of beater X diameter of pulley on beater shaft -^- diam- eter of pulley on fan shaft. To find the pulley on fan shaft: Speed of beater X diameter of pulley -i- speed of fan. To find the percentage of loss in cotton when passed through a tapper: Loss in weight X 100 -=- weight of cot- ton put up at feed end. Card, Floor space of card, 40 in. on wire, 10 ft. X 5 ft. 3 in. Driving pulley, 12 to 20 in. Speed, 160 to 180 revs, per min. Production* 17 to 22 lb. per hour for Indian. 10 to 16 " " " American. 4 to 10 " " " Egyptian. [ 3to 5 " " " Sea Island. Power, 2-3 to 1 I. H. P. according to width on wire. To find total draft: Lap roller wheel X feed roller wheel X side shaft bevel X doffer wheel X diameter of calender roller -4- lap roller driving wheel X draft wheel Practical Cotton Calculations 125 X side shaft driving bevel X calendar block w^heel X diameter of lap roller. To find draft between feed roller and dofer: Feed roller wheel X side shaft bevel X diameter of doffer -r- draft wheel X side shaft driving bevel X diameter of feed roller. To find length of fillet in feed to cover a cylinder: Diameter of cylinder X w^idth of cylinder X 3.1416 h- width of fillet X 12 in. To find production (calculated) in a given time: Working hours X 60 min. X revs, per min. of doffer X doffer wheel X calender wheel driving coiler X circum- ference of coiler calenders X grains per yard of sliver delivered -=- calender pinion X coiler cannon shaft wheel X 36 in. X TOGO grains. Sliver Lap Machine ; Floor space, 8 ft. X 5 ft. Drlv., ing pulley, 16 in. X ^i/o in. Speed 200 revs, per min. Production, 40 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 14 I. H. F. Ribbon Lap Machine; Floor space, 14 ft. X 4 ft. Driving pulley, 14 in. X 3 in. Speed, 250 revs, per min. Production, 40 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 1 !. H. P. Combers. — Heilman — Floor space (8 heads 12 in. lap), 18 ft. X 3 ft. 6 in. Driving pulleys, 10 to 15 in. X 3 in. Speed, 300 to 360 revs, per min. to give 80 to 95 nips on single nip machines, and 230 revs, per min. to give 120 nips on double nip machines. Production: Single nip, 8 to 12 lb. per hour; double nip, 10 to 15 lb. per hour. Power, about 1 I. H. P. iVa^m;^;^.— Floor space (6 heads 10% In. lap), 14 ft. X 3 ft. 6 in. Driving pulleys, 10 in. 126 Practical Cottox Calculatioxs Speeds 335 revs. (86 nips) for Sea Island. 350 " (90 '' ) '' Florida. 370 " (95 " ) " Egypt, and Amer. 390 " (100 " ) " coarse work. Production: A six-head machine at 100 nips per min. with 20 dwt. laps, allowing 15 per cent, for waste, will produce 16 lb. per hour. Power, about % I. H. P. Drawixg Frames. — ^Floor space varies according to number of heads and deliveries to each head. Width, in- cluding cans if coilers on one side, 4 ft. 6 in.; if cans zig-zag, 5 ft. Driving pulley, 16 in. X 3 in. Speeds, 300 to 300, according to circumstances. Production, 8 to 18 lb. per hour for finishing delivery. Power, 12 deliveries, 1 I. H. P. To find the hank drawing: Draft in drawing frame X hank carding -t- number of ends put up at the frame. To find the draft, (jiven hank drawing and hank carding: Number of ends put up X hank drawing -r- hank carding. To find the hank carding, given hank draioing and draft: Number of ends put up X hank drawing -~- draft. To find weight of drawing, given draft, number of ends put up, and weight of carding: Number of ends X weight of carding -f- draft. To find draft, given weight of draimng and carding: Number of ends put up X weight of carding -r- weight of drawing. To find change pinion when changing from one weight to another: Desired weight X change wheel at present on -^ present weight of drawing. Practical Cotton Calculations 127 To find change pinion when changing the hank: Present pinion X present hank -r- hank wanted. To find the draft in a drawing frame: Back roller wheel X crown wheel X diameter of front roller -r- change pinion X front roller wheel X diameter of back roller. To find the draft between the first and second rollers: Wheel driven by front roller wheel X wheel on second roller X diameter of front roller -^ diameter of second roller X wheel that drives second roller X front roller wheel. To find change jyinion for a required draft: Crown wheel X back roller wheel -=- front roller wheel X draft. To find the calculated 'production in lb. per toeek: Revolutions of front roller per minute X 60 mins. X working; hours X circumference of front roller -r- 840 X 36 in. X hank of sliver. Fly Frames.— Floor space: Width of slubbing frame, 4 ft.; intermediate and roving frames, 3 ft. Length ac- cording to number of spindles. To find the length of a frame: Number of spindles X gauge + gearing and off end, including pulley. Driving pulleys, 14 to 18 in. X Si^ in. Speeds, 500 to 1000 revs, of spindle according to machine and class of cotton. Power, 50 to 80 spindles per I. H. P. To find the speed of the spindles: Speed of main shaft X diameter of pulley X shaft wheel on frame end X spindle shaft bevel wheel -;- diameter of pulley on frame end X spindle shaft wheel X spindle foot wheel. ]28 Practical Cotton Calculatioks To find speed of front roller: Speed of main shaft X diameter of pulley X' twist wheel X frame end cone shaft wlieel -^ pulley on frame end X cone shaft wheel X front roller wheel. To find the turns per inch: Speed of spindles X length delivered per minute. To find the draft: Diameter of front roller X back roller wheel X crown wheel -=- diameter of back roller X change wheel X front roller wheel. To find the change wheel: Crown wheel X back roller wheel X diameter of front roller -f- diameter of back roller X front roller wheel X desired draft. To find the constant number for the draft: Diameter of front roller X back roller wheel X crown wheel -^- diameter of back roller X front roller wheel = constant number. To find the hank roving: The constant dividend for a given length -f- the weight in grains of that given length = hank roving. To find the change ivheel when changing the hank: Hank being made X change wheel on -f- hank wantea. To find the rack loheel when changing the hank: The square of the rack wheel on X hank required -=- hank be- ing made ; extract square root of quotient. To find the production in hanks: Speed of spindles per minute X GO mins. X working hours -r- turns per inch X 36 in. X 840 yds. Roving Waste Opener. — Floor space, 10 ft. 6 in, X 5 ft. 6 in. Driving pulley, 12 in. X 4i4 in. Speed, 400 revs, per min. Production, from 30 to 50 lb. per hour. Power, 2 I. H. P. Practical Cotton Calculations 129 Self-acting Mule. — ^Floor space: Width, about 20 ft^ To find the length: Number of spindles X gauge -h space taken up by headstock and two off ends. Driving pulleys, 16 to 18 in. X -5. Speed (pulley), from 650 to 900. Production varies according to the counts spun. To find the speed of the spindles: Speed of rim shaft pulley X diameter or rim X diameter of tin roller -h pulley on tin roller shaft X diameter of spindle wharve. To find the turns per inch: Speed of spindles -^ speed of front roller X circumference of front roller. To find the draft wheel: Diameter of front roller X back roller wheel X crown wheel -^ diameter of back roller X draft X front roller wheel. To find the constant number: Crown wheel X back roller wheel X diameter of front roller -^ diameter of back roller X draft. To find the draft : Counts X length delivered in inches -f- length of stretch X hank roving. To find the counts of yarn: Draft X hank roving X length of stretch -~ length delivered in inches. To find the change pinion in changing counts: Counts being spun X wheel on at present h- counts wanted. To find the production in Jb.: Ximiber of draws per minute X length of stretch in inches X working hours X 60 mins. ^ counts X 840 X 36 in. Ring Spinning Frame. — Floor space: Width, 3 ft. To find the length of a ring frame: Number of spindles on one side X gauge + space taken up by gearing and off end, including pulleys. 130 Practical Cottox Cai-culatioxs Driving pulley, 1^ in. X 3% in. Speed, 750 to 900. Production varies according to counts. Power, 80 spindles on 30's and making about 9500 revs, per 1 I. H. P. To find ihe turns per inch: Front roller wheel X twist carrier wheel X diameter of tin roller -=- tin roller wheel X twist wheel X diameter of wharve X circumfernce of front roller. To fnd the constant number for ihe twist: Diameter of tin roller X twist carrier wheel X front roller wheel -7- tin roller wheel X circumference of front roller X diameter of wharve. To find the ticist change pinion: Constant number -^ turns per inch. To find the draft : Counts -^- hank roving. To find the hank roving: Counts -f- draft. To find the jJroduction in lb.: Circumference of front roller X revs, per minute X 60 mins. X hours worked -~ 36 X 840 X counts. Thread Extractor. — Floor space, 5 ft. X 4 ft. Driv- ing pulley, feed pulley, 151/, X 1^/4- Speed: Counter- shaft, 680 revs, per min. Production, 10 to 20 lb. per hour. Power, % I. H. P. Practical Cottox Calculations 131 THERMOMETER. 5CALE5 Comparative Values in the Centigrade, Fahrenheit, and Reaumur Scales of Temperature. c F R i ^- F R. lOOo 212.00 80.00 1 250 77.00 20.00 99 210.2 79.2 24 75.2 19.2 98 208.4 78.4 23 73.4 18.4 97 206.6 77.6 22 71.6 17.6 96 204 8 76.8 21 69.8 16.8 95 203 76.0 20 68.0 16.0 94 201.2 75.2 19 66.2 15.2 93 199.4 74.4 18 64.4 14.4 92 197 6 73.6 17 62.6 13.6 91 195.8 72.8 16 60.8 12.8 90 194.0 72.0 15 59.0 12.0 89 192.2 71.2 14 57.2 11.2 88 190 4 70.4 13 55.4 10.4 87 188.6 69.6 12 53.6 9.6 86 186.8 68.8 11 51.8 8.8 85 185.0 68.0 10 50.0 8.0 84 193.2 67.2 9 48.2 7.2 83 181.4 66.4 8 46.4 6.4 82 179.6 65.6 7 44.6 5.8 81 177,8 84.8 6 42.8 4.8 80 176.0 64.0 5 41.0 4.0 79 174.2 63.2 4 39.2 3.2 78 172.4 62.4 3 37.4 2.4 77 170.6 61.6 2 35.6 1.6 76 168.8 60.8 1 33.8 0.8 75 167.0 60.0 Zero 32.0 Zero 74 165.2 59.2 1 30.2 0.8 73 163.4 58.4 2 28.4 1.6 72 161.6 57.6 3 26.6 2.4 71 159.8 56.8 4 24.8 3.2 70 158.0 56.0 5 23.0 4.0 69 156.2 55.2 6 21.2 4.8 68 154.4 54.4 7 19.4 5.6 67 152.6 53.6 8 17.6 6.4 66 150.8 52.8 9 15.8 7.2 65 149.0 52.0 10 14.0 8.0 64 147.2 51.2 11 12.2 8.8 63 145.4 50.4 12 10.4 9.6 62 143.6 49.6 13 8.6 10.4 61 141.8 48.8 14 6.8 11.2 60 140.0 48.0 15 5.0 12.0 59 138.2 47.2 16 3.2 12.8 58 136.4 46.4 17 1.4 13.6 57 134.3 45.6 18 Zero 14.4 56 132.8 44.8 19 2.2 15.2 55 131.0 44.0 20 4.0 16.0 54 129.2 43.2 21 5.8 16.8 53 127.4 42.4 22 7.6 17.6 52 125.6 41.6 23 9.4 18.4 132 Practical Cotto^t Calculations THERMOMETER, .SCALES Comparative Values in the Centigrade, Fahrenheit, and Reaumur Scales of Temperature. c. F. R. c. F. R. 510 123.80 40.80 240 11.2« 19.20 50 122.0 40.0 25 13.0 20.0 49 120.2 39.2 26 14.8 20.8 48 118.4 38.4 27 16.6 21.6 47 116.6 37.6 28 18.4 22.4 46 114.8 36.8 29 20.2 23.2 45 113.0 36.0 : 30 22.0 24.0 44 111.2 35.2 : 31 23.8 24.8 43 109.4 34.4 32 25.6 25.6 42 107.6 33.6 ; 33 27.4 26.4 41 105.8 32.8 1 34 29.2 27.2 40 104.0 32.0 35 31.0 28.0 39 102.2 31.2 36 32.8 28.8 38 100.4 30.4 i 37 34.6 29.6 37 98.6 29.6 j 38 36.4 30.4 36 96.8 28.8 1 1 39 38.2 31.2 35 95.0 28.0 1 1 40 40.0 32.0 34 93.2 27.2 1 41 41.8 32.8 33 91.4 26.4 1 ! 42 43.6 33.6 32 89.5 25.6 1 43 45.4 34.4 31 87.8 24.8 ' ! 44 47.2 35.2 30 86.0 24.0 i 45 49.0 36.0 29 84.2 23.2 46 50.8 36.8 28 82.4 22.4 47 52.6 37.6 27 80.6 21.6 48 54.4 38.4 26 78.8 20.8 49 56.2 39.2 CONVERSION OF THERMOMETER DEGREES Centigrade (C) Fahrenheit (F) Reaumur (R) C to R. Multiply by .80; C to F. " " 1.80; then add 32; R to C. " " 1.25; R to F. then add 32; F to R. First deduct 32, then multiply by 4 and divide by 9. F toC. First deduct 32, then multiply by 5 and divide by 9. INDEX Rulp Number Page Average counts of cloth 59 Average counts of filling in cloth contain- ing Q or more counts of filling 41 50 Average counts of yarn in a set of warps containing different counts of yarn... 20 36 Average counts of yarn in cloth, from ends in warp, pick, width in reed and 3'ards per pound 43 51 Average counts of yarn in cloth from sley, pick, width and yards per pound 43,44 53 Average counts of yarn in cloth from sley, pick, counts of warp and filling 45 53 Average counts of yarn in cloth with only one counts of warp in a cramped stripe 54 Average counts of yarn in cloth containing more than one counts of warp 46, 47 54 Average counts of yarn in cloth from per cent, warp, per cent, filling, and counts of warp and filling 48 5b Average counts of yarn from a small piece of cloth 49, 50 57 Average pick when check pegs are used. . . 53,54 59 Average sley from ends in warp and width of cloth 51 59 Average sley in an unequally reeded stripe, from sley and warp layout 52 58 Beam yarn and warp calculations Si Beam, counts of yarn on a, from length, weight and number of ends 16 31 134 Ikdex Rule Number Page Beam, weight of yarn on a 17 S2 Beam, ends on a, from counts, weight and length 19 35 Breaking weights of American yarns 95 Cable yarns ~4 Change gear to give a certain number of picks per inch 86, 87 101 Check peg patterns, caluculations for 60 Check pegs to use per pattern 56, 57 61 Cloth analysis 71 Cloth calculations 51 Cloth contraction 6;J Cloth, yards per pound of 69-71 77 Cloth, ounces per yard of 72 78 Cloth production 99 Contraction, percentage of, in length from warp to cloth 58 64 Constants or constant numbers 8 Constant to use for loom take-up motion 85 101 Conversion of thermometer degrees 132 Cost calculations 105 Cost of filling in a piece of cloth 101 109 Cost of a piece of cloth 109 Cost of oversight per yard 94 106 Cost of stock per pound of cloth 97 107 Cost of weaving per yard 92 105 Cost of yarn per cut 98 107 Cost of yarns per pound 117 Cost of yarns per yard of cloth 99 108 Cost of yarn in a warp 100 108 Costs per yard of cloth, sumTnary of 119 Index 13A Rule Number Page 33 Cotton yarn, table of counts and lengths of Counts of cloth, average 58 Counts, length or weight of cotton yarn (formula "A") 30 Counts, number of hanks or weight (for- mula "B") 31 Counts, weight, length or ends on a beam (formula "C") 35 Counts, comparing yarns for 13 Counts, weighing short lengths of yarn for 13 Counts, from length and weight 1, 2, 10 14, 29 Counts, from number of leas and weight. . 3 14 Counts, from weight and number of hanks 14 30 Counts, systems of numbering yarns of various materials for 20 Counts, equivalent 20 Counts, equivalent, of cotton to a given counts of other materials 21 Counts, equivalent, of raw silk (yards per ounce system), spun silk, worsted, woolen and linen to a given cotton counts 4 20 Counts, equivalent of raw silk (denier and dram systems) to a given cotton counts 23 Counts of twisted, or ply and cable yarns 24 Counts of single yarns equal to a ply yarn composed of 2 or more single yarns of unequal counts 5, 6 -25 Counts of yarn to twist with a given yarn to produce a required ply yarn 7 26 Counts of spun silk ply yarns 28 136 Index Rule Number Page Counts of yarn on a beam from length. weight and number of ends 10 31 Counts of yarn in a set of warps -20 3G Counts of yarn, from the weight of a few inches 39 41 Counts of warp or filling required to give a certain number of yards per pound 37 46 Counts of filling required, from sley, pick, warp and average counts 3!* 48 Counts of filling required, from sley, pick, width, warp and yards per pound. ... 35/ 4P Counts of filling required in a cloth con- taining -2 different counts of filling yarn 40 4? Denier system of counts in raw silk com- pared to dram silk and U. S. cotton counts systems 33 Dents per inch in reed to produce a given sley 60 o'7 Dents per inch of reed, table of 6y Dents, numiber of, occupied by an equally reeded warp G4 71 Diameter of driving pulley 89 103 Diameter of loom pulley. 90 103 Diameters of yarns 80, 81 92 Dram system of counts in raw silk com- pared to denier silk and U. S. cotton counts systems 2?i> Ends on a beam, from counts, weight and length IP 35 Ends, number of, in an equally reeded warp 21 3G Index 137 Rule Number Paga Ends, number of, In nn unequally reeded pattern, from sley, widtli and warp layout 95 39 Equivalent counts 20 Equiv^alent counts in various systems, short methods to find 20 Expense per yard of cloth, general 95 106 Expense per pound of cloth, general 96 105 Filling calculations, warp and 41 Filling calculations ■. 43 Filling, weight of. per cut from per cent- of filling 30 41 Filling, required per day, weight of 31 43 Filling, hanks of, in a piece of cloth 3;? 43 Filling, per cut, weight of 34 44 Filling, counts of, required to give a cer- tain nwmber of yards per pound 37 46 Filling, counts of, required from sley, pick, warp counts and ^average counts.... 38 49 Filling, counts of, required from sley, pick, width, warp counts and yards per pound 39 49 Filling, counts of, required in a cloth con- taining two different counts of filling yarn 40 49 Filling, average counts of, in a piece of cloth containing 2 or more counts of filling 41 50 Filling, percentage of 73-77 83 Filling, cost of, in a piece of cloth 101 109 Gear, change, to use to give a certain numiber of picks per inch , 86-87 101 Glossary of technical words and terms. ... 5 138 Index Rale Nvimber Page 14 15 31 '22 37 23 37 33 43 80 11 11 Ground picks per inch, from average pick, number of teeth used per pattern and picks per pattern 55 OO Hank of roving, number of Hanks, from weight and counts Hanks of warp yarn in a piece of cloth. . . Hanks in a warp, from ends and leng-th Hanks of filling, from pick, width in reed and length Hanks of yarn, warp or filling, in 100 yards of cloth, table of Length for cotton, standard of length and weight standards Length, weight or counts of cotton yarn (formula 'VV') 30 I,ength, weight, counts or number of ends on a beam (formula 'C") Length and counts table Length, from counts and weight Length of yarn on a beam, from weight, counts and number of ends Length of yarn on a warp, from number of hanks and number of ends Length of cloth that can be woven with a given counts and weight of filling.... Length of warp required for a given lengths of cloth in lenos, lappets, etc. Loom calculations Metric system compared to L"^. S. cotton counts system Numbering cotton yarn, standard for.... 35 33 11 29 18 34 24 38 33 43 59 G5 101 20 16 IliTDEX 139 Rule Number Page Numbering yarns of various materials, systems of ^ Ounces per yard, from yards per pound.* 65 74 Ounces per yard, from a small piece of cloth 72 79 Oversight per yard, cost of 94 106 Patterns, number of, in an unequally reed- ed cloth 26 39 Percentage of contraction in length from warp to cloth .58 64 Percentage of warp or filling in any cloth 73 82 Percentage of warp or filling in any cloth, from ends, pick, warp, filling and width 74 84 Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, from sley, pick, warp and filling counts 76 85 Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, from weighi of warp and weight of cut 7.5 85 Percentage of warp or filling in cloth, from sley, pick, average counts and warp 5 77 86 Per cent, of production of a loom S;J-84 99 Pick, average, when check pegs are used . . 53, .54 59 Picks per inch, ground, from average pick, number of teeth used and picks per pattern 55 60 Ply and cable yarns, counts of twisted or i?4 Ply yarns, counts of, composed of 2 or more single yarns of unequal counts.. 5. 6 25 140 Index Rule Number Page Ply yarn, counts of a yarn to twist with a given yarn to produce a required.. 7 36 Ply yarns, counts of spun silk 2^ Production tables, cloth 07, 98 Production of cloth per week 83 99 Raw silk calculations 22 Raw silk counts, compared to cotton counts 23 Reed calculations OH Reed to use for unequally reeded patterns 62 69 Reed, w^idth in, from sley and width of cloth 63 70 Reed, dents per inch in, for a given sley. . 60 67 Reed table 73 Reeling yarns 14 Size, per cent, of, on warp yarns 27 40 Sley that would be woven with a reed of a given number of dents per inch. ... 61 69 Sley, average, from ends and width of cloth 51 59 Sley, average, in an unequally reeded stripe from sley and warp layout.. 52 59 Speed calculations 102 Speed of shafting : 88 102 Speed of loom 91 101 Spun silk ply yarns, counts of 28 Square root of numbers 1 to 140 90, 91 Square yards in a cut of cloth 78, 79 87 Standards of lengths and weights for tex- tile materials 11 Systems of filling out blank with weave room data for a piece of cloth Ill Index 141 Rale Number Page Tables for counting cotton yarn from weight in grains of 120 yards 16-20 Table for ply yarns 120 Tables of cloth production 97, 9S Table of dents per inch in reed to pro- duce any even numliered sley from 48 to 132 68 Table of dents per 1-20 inch (1 to 20) to weave cloths with from 48 to 112 sley ground 73 Table of lengths and comits 8 Table of length and weight 9 Tables of hanks of yarn, warp or filling, in 100 yards of cloth 80, 81 Table of yards of yarn per pound in counts from 1 to 2.50 33 Take-up in length from warp to cloth. ... .58 64 Technical words and terms, glossary of . . . ^ Testing yarns for counts by comparison., 12 Testing yarns for strength 93 Thermometer scales 131, 132 Twisted or ply and ca1)le yarns, counts of 24 Twists per inch in yarns 88 Twist tables 90, 91 Useful notes on cotton spinning machinery 123-130 Warp calculations, beam yarn and 31 Warp, length of, from number of hanks and number of ends 24 38 Warp and filling calculations 41 Warp required per day, weight of 31 43' 14S Ikdex Rule Numbei' Page Warp, counts of, from sley, pick filling and average counts 3S 4B Warp, length of, required for a given length of cloth in lenos, lappets, etc.. . 59 65 Warp, percentage of 73-77 82 Weaving, cost of 93-93 105 Weight and length standards 11 Weight required for each count for a given weight of ply yarn 8 25 Weight required of each counts in a group of warps, from counts, number of ends of each and total weight 9 97 Weight, from counts and length 12 29 Weight, from counts and number of hanks 13 3(? Weight, counts or length of cotton yarn (formula "A") '. . . . 30 Weight, counts or number of hanks of yarn (formula "B") 3) Weight, length, counts or number of ends on a beam (formula "C") 35 Weight of warp in ounces per yard of cloth 28 40 Weight of w'arp per cut from per cent. warp 30 4) Weight or number of yards per pound and ounces per yard 74. Weight of yarn on a beam, from length, number of ends and counts 17 33 Weight of warp yarn on beams in tlie looms 34 Weight of warp yarn in a piece of cloth. . 17 32 Weight of each separate color of filling required for colored check fabrics. ... 35 44 IXDEX 143 Rule Number Page Weight of each count or kind of filling required for embossed fabrics 36 45 Weight of filling required for stop peg checks 44 Weight of filling required per cut 34 44 Weight or yards per pound 74 Width in reed, from sley and width of cloth 63 70 Yards per pound of a cloth containing different counts of yarns or patterns that are unequally reeded G7, G8 75 Yards of cloth, per pound, from ounces per yard 65 74 Yards of cloth per pound, from sley, pick, width and average counts 69 77 Yards of cloth per ])ound, from sley, pick, width, warp and filling counts 70,71 77 Yards of cloth per pound from a small piece of cloth 66 11 Yearn, counts of, from any number of yards reeled or measured 1, 2 14 Yarn calculations 11 Yarn standard 11 Yarn, weight bi, from counts and hanks.. 13 30 Yarn, counts, length or weight of (for- mula "A") 30 Yarn, length of, from counts and weight. 11 29 Yarn, weight of, from counts and length. . 13 29 Yarn, counts of, from length and weight. . 10 29 Yarn, counts of, from weight and hanks.. 14 30 Yarn and warp calculations, beam 31 Yarn on a beam, counts of 16 31 Yarn on a beam, weioht of 17 3i' 144 Index Rule Number Page Yarn on a beam, length of 18 34 Yarn, counts of, from weig-ht of a few inches -9 41 Yarns, C£)st of, per yard and per cut 98,99 107 Yarns, cost of, in a warp 100 108 Yarns, diameters of 9^ Yarns, reeling 14 Yarns, testing, for strength 93 Yarns, testing, for counts by comparison 12 Yarns, testing, for counts by weighing- short lengths 13 Yarns, twists per inch in 88 Yarns of various materials, systems of numbering QQ MILL CLOCKS AS WELL AS TOWER CLOCKS Have Been Howard Specialties for Nearly EIGHTY YEARS One Howard Tower Clock, with four large dials has been running for forty-five years at a total expense of $65.00. Watchman Clocks, Employees Time Recorders, Standard Regulators for Mill Offices. THE E. HOWARD CLOCK COMPANY Established 1843 BOSTON NEW YORK CHICAGO C. E. RILEY SOUTHERN OFFICE President 814-815 Atlanta Trust Co. BIdg. ATLANTA, GA. H. & B. American Machine Co. PAWTUCKET, K. I. Cotton Machinery WE BUILD Hopper Bale Openers Vertical Openers Self Feeding Openers Automatic Self Feeders Breaker, Intermediate and Finisher Lappers Revolving Flat Cards Drawing Frames Slubbing, Intermediate Roving and Jack Frames Spinning Frames Twisters for Wet or Dry Work We are sole makers of the Hardman Duplex Carding- Device Tliis device can be ai>plie^ ^ Positively timed vomiting Kier Vvithout Vv>srE OF Steam MatjufactuREO Bt E D Jefferson IS9 High Street Boston Massachusetts -^ Vv/ATCHV/CRO e— SiMPLiciT Y- Result :— tcoNOMy u t Cloth Calculations require mathematical processes. SIMILAR PROCEDURE should disclose the inevitable advantasres of a SIMPLE AUTOMATIC LOOM in comparison with Those MORE ANCIENT COMPLEX and COSTLY. We build the NORDRAY LOOMS and ATTACHMENTS Hopedale Mfg. Co. MILFORD, MASS. rrmm. BSsgrTW'.:i?W!syi O cti Q * < worn Rolls Made New Retu Spee^ m CO 00 MEMORANDA MEMORANDA MEMORANDA KNOXALL FABRICS Pure Virgin Wool Roller Cloth Clearer Cloth Slasher Cloth and all other fabrics needed for mechanical operations EDWARD H. BEST « CO. INCORPORATED 222-224 Purchase Street BOSTON ESTABLISHED 1815 Arnold, Hoffman & Co. INCORPORATED PROVIDENCE, R. I. NEW YORK, N. Y. BOSTON, MASS, PHILADELPHIA, PA. CHARLOTTE, N. C. Importers and Manufacturers of Starches, Gums, Dextrines and Specialties for Sizing, Softening aid Finisliing Cotton Wooien and Worsted Fabrics. Special attention given by practical men to specialties for Sizing, Softening, Finish- ing and Weighting Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Fabrics combining the latest European and American methods. We believe there is no problem in Siring or Finishing that we cannot solve. Formulas for the best method of obtaining any DESIRED FINISH on any fabric cheerfully gWen. THE INDUSTRY AND ART OF WINDING Wlien Mr. J. R. Leeson originated the method of winding now known the world over as "Universal", windinf; machines were supplied by makers of other types of textile ma- chinery merely as adjvincts, not as capital necessities. Todaj' all progressive manufacturers recognize that slfill and capital in- vested in spinning, weaving, knit- ting and otlier processes of textile ■manufacture cannot be efficiently or economically operated \mlcss supple- mented by accurate, dependable methods in winding. In order to meet this now generally appreciated irequircment the Uni- versal Winding Company, during the past third of a Century, has designed and built a system of machinery supplementary to all other operations in textile manufacture. UNIVERSAL WINDING COMPANY ^EESONA. BOSTON