LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDDisiamas ,/*«'*'^!^^-^ /»?• e B4 ^ ^^a::^' ;'r'i .-^^ Co ^ ,.,.^^,^^^ life r e^ ||i;T6f^icy\u qU/\RE: lv h. -jrr-jjc--!. -Q f^ 373. A Historical Sketch of Madison Square. Illust 12mo, paper, pp. 47. (Auto, presentation copy from the author, Morris Benjamin.) N. Y. 1894 MERIDEN MONOGRAPHS, No. i '^y^'^rt^C't^ / t^2ty.^«^^>^<** H Ibistorical Sketch of ^abison Square NEW YORK 1894 This little hook^ the result of many months of careful research^ is offered to the patrons of the Meriden Britannia Gom])anij^ in commemoration of its removal fro7n Unio7i to Madison Square. It is hoped that they ivillfind the information as inter- esting as it has been to the publishers of this His- torical Sketch of Madison Square. 'W 09 No MADISON SQUARE. |N the very heart of the metropolis of the New World is Madison Square ; and in all New York there is no other one place so completely identified with the growth of the city as this beautiful pleasance. Even more than this may be said, for it is doubtful if there is any place in the world where the^;^ de Steele civili- zation in its fullest development can be seen to greater advantage than in this very ]\ladison Square. It has all the gayety and brightness of the famous Place de la Concorde in Paris, without its sad remin- iscences. Like Trafalgar Square in London, it has a memorial to a nation's greatest naval hero ; like- wise it does honor to a brave soldier, and even states- men have not been forgotten. Its history is like that of Lafayette Square, in Washington city, of ^vhich it has been well said to have " undeniably the most interesting history of any locality in the United States." The history of Madison Square is indeed the history of New York city itself. Originally it was conspicuous as a military post, serving as such during the war of 1812 ; then it became the site of the House of Refuge, and finally (5) 6 MADISON SQUARE. it was beautified and made into a park. These various elements of its history we shall consider in their chronological order. As early as 1806 a magazine or arsenal was erected by the United States at the junction of the Eastern Post Road, as the highway to Boston was then called, and the Middle Road, better known in these days as Broadway. The exact site of this building was about where the Worth Monument now stands. It formed one of the series of defenses which in- cluded two other arsenals in the low- er part of the city, and two forts — one off the Battery, called Southwest Battery, and the other in Hudson River, off Hubert Street, called North Battery. These arsenals were buildings two or three stories MADISON SQUARE. 7 high, of stone and brick, well constructed, and in- closed by high walls. All that is martial has long since disappeared from this point. Worth's Monu- ment alone preserves to memory the spot that once served to protect the city from an attack from the north. Thus almost a century ago what has since become Madison Square was an important locality in the history of New York. In 1807 an act was passed by the State Legis- lature authorizing the appointment of commission- ers to regulate and open the streets. De Witt Clin- ton, who resigned from the United States Senate in 1802 to accept the office of mayor of the city, was then tilling that place for a second time. He named as commissioners Goiiverneur Morris, Simeon De Witt, and John Rutherfurd. To this board New York owes its rectangular system of streets and avenues. They adopted the method of parallel streets across the island, numbering toward the north from Houston Street, where their special labors began. The streets were intersected by ave- nues one hundred feet wide, extending to the extreme northern limit of the island, twelve of which num- bered eastward from First Avenue, which passed " from the west of Bellevue Hospital to the east of Harlem Church." East of First Avenue were four short avenues, designated A, B, C, and D respectively. The adjustment of Broadway with the Bloom- ingdale Road seems to have caused them some trou- ble, and in a letter written by John Randel, Jr., city surveyor, to the commissioners, we find mention of 8 MADISON SQUARE. that fact. He says : " Between Sailor's Snug Har- bor [now Tenth Street] and Love Lane [now Twen- ty-first Street] were a narrow causeway and perhaps from six to eight frame dwelling houses." By the commissioners' plan " Broadway was to have been straightened at this place by continuing it from the bend at the present Tenth Street northward between Third and Fourth Avenues to Twenty- third Street, where it was lost in ' The Parade.' " This Parade, according to the same writer, was laid out by the commissioners for military purposes, and contained 238'7 acres, extending from Twenty- third to Thirty-fourth Streets and from Third to Seventh Avenues. Their report was dated March 32, 1811. By a statute of April 15, 1814, this tract was reduced to 89-1 acres, and about this time it received the name of Madison Square, in honor of James Madison, the President of the United States. Finally it was again reduced and given the present size. In its inception we have the germ which later gave rise to Central Park. Having thus traced part of its early history, we now pass to another phase of its development. It is a curious fact that many of the public squares of New York were originally used as burial places for the unknown dead. The upper part of City Hall Park, where the Court House now stands, was once used for that purpose. A writer on old New York says : " And the robin, who is no respecter of persons, chirps as joyously upon the sod that hides the quiet dust of the repentant and forgotten felon as on the nnnnnncinnnnnnnnnn ; s • ■ i ■ ■ . ■ jJy"J_LuLL]yziJLliJzz ^^^§- nnn nnnnnnnnnnn nnn 10 MADISON SQUARE. carefully tended grave of the nabob who left his gold behind him when he lay down to rest beneath the aristocratic elms of old St. Paul's." As the city pushed northward the Potter's Field was removed to Washington Square, and as early as 1810 a part of the Parade Ground, especially that to the east of the arsenal, was used by the city authori- ties as the last resting place for its castaway dead. Later the block between Forty-ninth and Fiftieth Streets and Lexington and Fourth Avenues was used as a public cemetery until about 1857, when the present location on Ward's Island was selected. Felix Old boy, in his charming Tour around New York, says of Madison Square : " Fashion enjoys the lovely little park, but little recks that it owes its pleasant shade to the tramps and the criminals whose bones lie moldering beneath the grass and flowers." Meanwhile the Parade Ground remained a broad area of waste land. Subsequent to the War of 1812 all fear of foreign invasion seems to have passed away, and finally, in 1823, the arsenal or barracks, as it was then called, was abandoned. The land became the property of the city, and in 1825 the first House of Refuge was founded in the old building. It began with six boys and three girls. Fire destroyed the building in 1839, and the House of Refuge was re- moved, in October of that year, to the foot of Fast Twenty-third Street, where it remained until 1854, when it was again removed to its present site on Randall's Island. MADISON SQUARE. H Of this institution a writer in Appletons' Jour- nal says : " The society [for the House of Refuge was managed by the Society for the Eeformation of Juvenile Delinquents of the City of New York] began operations on the 1st of January, 1825, in the old soldiers' barracks, occupied during the War of 1812-'15. The site of the barracks was about one mile from the outskirts of the city and two miles from the City Hall. It is now the heart of the city, forming the charming park known as Madison Square. It was then considered out of town. A lady of the city recollects, when young, being invited to visit the institution. The day was devoted to the object, and she was so fatigued by the jaunt that she was sick for a week in consequence." And this was going from down town to Madison Square. After the burning of the House of Refuge the Parade Ground seems to have been abandoned to an 12 MADISON SQUARE. unconfined class of boys, for we read that it served " as a skating place in winter and was a source of infinite delight in summer to the throngs of boys that then roamed the streets at will and wallowed in its muddy shallows." More than one of our present parks have been reclaimed as breathing places on account of their swampy nature rendering them unfit for residential purposes. Conspicuous illustrations of this fact are afforded in Washington, Gramercy, and Madison Squares. Some years ago General Egbert L. Viele, an enthusiast on the subject of parks, and the author of the earliest plan of Central Park, made an elab- orate topographical map of New York city, showing the original courses of these ancient streams. We find that one of these nameless streams [it has been called Cedar Creek, according to some persons, but General Viele does not recognize this name] has its origin to the w^est of the Square, and, after passing along the line of Broadway, turns eastward and skirts the northern end of the park ; then passing south, it there broadens into a pond, whence it fol- lows a southeasterly course toward the East River, into which it empties at about Seventeenth Street. In recent years the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, whose beautiful building adorns the south- eastern corner of the Square, has used its waters for cleaning and washing. Meanwhile the city was slowly extending nortli- ward. In 1837 the tunnel between Thirty-third and Forty-second Streets was opened. Of this event the MADISON SQUARE. 13 New York Mirror, long edited by Nathaniel P. Willis, says : " Philadelphia and Boston are both famous for their lions, their Fairmount Waterworks, and their Mount Auburn Cemetery, but they must now hide their diminished heads for a while until they can get up something to beat the tunnel on Fourth Avenue." Five years later water from the Croton River was introduced into the distributing reservoir on Fifth Avenue, between Fortieth and Forty-second Streets. The event w^as celebrated on October ]4, 1842, and, says Mrs. Lamb, " with an imposing military and civic procession seven miles in length." George P. Morris, the poet, wrote of this event : " Round the aqueducts of story, As the mists of Lethe throng, Croton's waves, in all their glory, Troop in melody along. Ever sparkling, bright, and single Will this rock-ribbed stream appear, When posterity shall mingle Like the gathered waters here." Let us also glance to the east and the west. Felix Oldboy tells us that Bull's Head village ex- tended from Second to Fourth Avenues and from Twenty-third to Twenty-seventh Streets. Here was the great cattle mart of the city, and here it had been for twenty years. On the west was Chelsea village, whose colonial houses reward those whose antiquarian ambitions lead them to search that old quarter. The block 14 MADISON SQUARE. between Twentieth and Twenty-first Streets and Ninth and Tenth Avenues, on whicii are the build- ings of the General Theological Seminary of the Protestant Episcopal Church, preserves the name of Chelsea Square. This block was originally j)art of the farm of Clement C. Moore, who is best known as the author of " 'Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse." Rapid transit was introduced in 1832, and horse- cars ran along Fourth Avenue from Prince Street to Murray Hill at intervals of fifteen minutes. A fare of twenty-five cents was charged. New York was fast becoming a metropolis. In 1844, James Har^^er, of the famous publishing firm, '^\ ; /a ■ was chosen mayor on the Na- v^ *' y/\ tive American ticket, and dur- ing his administration com- missioners were appointed to acquire the lands forming the Square. Their report was / J^ ^ confirmed bv the Supreme (y Court early m May, 1847, and the Square was ordered opened by the Common Council on the lOtli of that month. Its area at that time was 6*84 acres. Beyond acquiring possession of the property and declaring it open, very little seems to have been done r^vF '/ MADISON SQUARE. 15 with it. A contemporaneous Description of the City of New York, published in 1847, says : " Madi- son and Hamilton Squares, and some other public areas, though laid down in the plan of the city, are not yet arranged and opened." The Mexican War then took place and absorbed the public interest. Later, its outlines were marked by a rude wooden fence, and paths connecting the streets and avenues were laid out. Of the buildings that surround Madison Square, the first to achieve special interest was Corporal Thompson's Madison Cottage, where, according to Mrs. Van Kensselaer, " at the Sign of the Buckhorn, explained by a huge pair of veritable antlers, the trot- ting men of the period found frequent refreshment for themselves, if not for their beasts." It was the post tavern used for changing horses and later became a road house. In the New York Herald of May 9, 1847, we find the following reading notice : 16 MADISON SQUARE. " Madison" Cottage. — This beautiful place of resort opposite Madison Square, corner of Twenty- third Street and Broadway, is open for the season, and Palmer's omnibuses drive to the door. It is one of the most agreeable spots for an afternoon's lounge in the suburbs of our city. Go and see." It occupied the site where the Fifth Avenue Hotel now stands. In 1852 it was the chief house in the immediate vicinity. It soon gave way to Franconi's Hippodrome, which was built by a syndicate of eight American showmen, among whom were Avery Smith, Richard Sands, and Seth B. Howe. The building was of brick, two stories high, and. seven hundred feet in circumference. The arena, which was in the center, was uncovered, and here were given chariot races and circus performances. It was opened on May 2, 1853, when over four thousand people were present. For two seasons it continued in favor. A church followed, and selected the corner of Twenty-fourth Street and Madison Avenue as the site for its home. In 1834, William Adams, a gradu- ate of 1827 at Yale, and at the Andover Theological Seminary in 1830, was called to the charge of the Central Presbyterian Church in Broome Street. His congregation founded the Madison Square Pres- byterian Church in 1853, and of which he continued pastor until 1873. For nearly half a century Dr. Adams was one of the leaders of his denomination, and exercised a potent influence over the religious thought of New York city until his death in 1880. MADISON SQUARE. 17 A conspicuous event in the history of Christianity occurred in this church on October 5, 1873. The Evangelical Alliance of the World was gathered at that time in convention in New York, and on Sunday afternoon a com- munion service was held in which representatives from every denomination and almost every nation on earth took part. So conspicuous a recognition of the unity of Christian- ity received adverse criti- cism from certain stricter members of the English Church, especially so as the Dean of Canterbury had participated in the service. Dr. Adams soon published a letter replying to the critics. It silenced all animadversion. In his pastorate he was followed by Dr. William Tucker, who in 1880 was succeeded by the present incum- bent. Dr. Charles H. Parkhurst, who has made his influence felt in his determined efforts to suppress venal influences in municipal politics. " The rapid improvements," says Mrs. Lamb, " in Fifth Avenue above Madison Square date from the completion of the Madison Square Presbyterian Church ill 185-4," but unquestionably the World's Fair held in Crystal Palace during 1853 had much />, ^:^A