u A- ifiU^ l^ s. f;^^^ I m '^^Aii lit ''''mm :,K(/i|i: 'if mm Ml 'K ROCKY MOONTAIN LIFE; on, E'liRTLiNG Scenes and Perilous Advei^tures m THE FAR "WEST. RUFUS B. SAGE Dayton, Ohio: EDWARD CANBY. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Objectsof a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Di^eEsion. Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indiana, 29 CHAPTER 11. Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simpli- city of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of motmtaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The command- ant En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish compa- ny. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 34 CHAPTER III. Tlie Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for wldskey. Hick- ory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California, Adventure with a buffalo. In- dian atrocities. Liquor and tiie Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. 45 CHAPTER IV. CSonntry from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel euro for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its viciidty. Dangerouj country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of of tb«»ir phenomenon. Something to laugl^ at. " Big Jim " and the ante- lope. 64 CHAPTER V. Deierted camp. Big Jim's third attempt a a hunter. Buffilo and other particu lar«. Big Jim lying guard. Butch iring. Strange selections. Extraordi- nary eating, and excallence cf buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The muiv derer's fete. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange tnfetuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them.^ Croa S, FWt of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventura. M (7) yrSL ©ONTBNTS. CHAPTER VI. Asb creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad bull. Maldng and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Martocog* erehne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address. 75 CHAPTER VIL The Chimney. Abet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's BlufT. Roman- tic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden- Mountain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Reraarkfl by the way. Prairie travel. l/ocality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Jligratory habits of moimtain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa- huska on the death of his father. 90 CHAPTER Vni. Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Inoi* dent illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. RawMde. An Indian and a buffalo cha.se. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river; its val- ley, fruits, and game. Biiilding site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. " That Old Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 103 CHAPTER IX. Dangers connected with the liquor tnide. DL'Bculty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic Di- vorce. Plurality of wives. 116 CHAPTER X. •Rbtunga-egoniflka. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The Death Song, a tale of love. Me Heine-men. Extraordinary perform- ance of Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderfu- feats of jugglery. 125 CHAPTER XI. Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat R«- turn to Fort Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medi* A BuiaL littk Lodge and th« French trader. ▲ ipaMh eONTENTS. In connciL Journey to White river. High winds and snow Intense guf- feringa and painful results. I35 CHAPTER XII. Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves; A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up tlie Platte, island camp. Narrow escape. Snow stonn. Warm Spring. Pass of the PiaiLe into the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Roct- diggmg. Cherry tea and its usea. Geology of the 'country. Soils, grasses herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek, a. j>auiher. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. 143 CHAPTER XIIL The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon. Romantic pros- pect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Ge- ological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte's creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. jgg CHAPTER XIV. Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage trees. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it. Devil's Gate. Landscape scenery. 159 CHAPTER XV. Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the Soutli Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicme Bow. Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. Tlie " Carcague." A surprise. Viait to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for tobacco Descripticm of I^ramie I'laina. 165 CHAPTER XVI. Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chug^vater. Gold. Curiosity. Affaii's at the Fort. Amusements. (Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dres»3s, and riding fasluon. Items of interest to the curious, proving the in- tercourse of the ancient Romans with tlie people of this continent. 173 OHAi^TER XVU. Singulai exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the Stales. Scarcity of proYudonB and consequent hardship and suflfering. Extraordinary daring of JL CSOKTENTV. woItos. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet Fishing. 4. fish itoiy, and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Summary of hard* ahipe and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 185 CHAPTER XVm. Bunting excursion. Thirst more painfiil than hunger. G^eological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluflf. Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring com- pany. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exem- plary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days* starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff. Proceed to Independence. 193 CHAPTER XIX. The country Detween the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Bea- ver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennee ; their character and histoiy. Arrive at Fort Lan- caster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 200 CHAPTER XX. Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous coun- tiy Mexican traders. Summary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancas- ter and surrounding coimtry. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connect- ing observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, cliaracter, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone trav- ellers. Arrive at the Arkamas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 210 CHAPTER XXI. Tkinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its val- leys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over. Taos ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranchos and Ran cheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, \vith a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their pr^ •ent degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancieat tample. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Uintah river, and obse^ mtiMu by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. Tha CONTENTS. Diggers ; misery of tlieir situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of their character. The Navijos ; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, hraver^^ &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. 221 CHAPTER XXII. Uintah trade. Snake Indians ; their country and character. Description of Upper California. The Ea.«tern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. / Prevailing rock and inineraJs. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game.*^ Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. 3Iildness of chraate, and its healthines.s. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from the United States. 232 CHAPTER XXIII. {ffinerala. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the countiy ; tei-ritory northwest of the Sacramento ; llamath Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; southern parts ; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and ItJare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grahi and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, luins, and dews ; geological and minei-alogical character ; face of the country ; its water ; its healtliiness ; game ; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c.; beasts of prey; the inhabitants, who; Indians, theix character and condition ; Capital of the Province, v.ith other tovras ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and McfxieaM ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 239 CHAPTER XXIV. VitdtoTs at Uintah. Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white Indians ; some accomit of Ihem. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its eiploration,— speculation relative to its inhabitants, I^ave for Fort liail. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Comitry en route. Brown's-hde. Geological observations. Suda, Beer, and SteamJ3oat springs ; their peculi- arities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; it^ fertility, timber, and abun- dance of wild fruit. Bufialo berries. Superior advantages^ of tliis section ACneral tar. 250 CHAPTER XXV. yipit HaQ ; iti histoiT, and locality. Information relatlv* to Owgom, Booad^ xii CONTEIfrS, uids and extent of the territory. Ita rivers and lakes, with a concise descrip- tion of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Divison ; its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of tho Columbia ; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prai- ries, highlands, and forests. Western Division ; a beautiful country ; ex- tensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts. 258 CHAPTER XXVI. Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a ricrth- em latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and culti- vated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variet)- of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situa- tion and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kind- ness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 269 CHAPTER XVII. The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advan- tages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early liistory of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the ( , Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 277 CHAPTER XXVra. From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remark- able sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to geneiul health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astoiiish- ing wol fine, rapacity, Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excur- Bion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal viaitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimon oi •*f«ttindovm stairs." Geological statistica. 287 CONTENTS. X» CHAPTER XXIX, Kttom to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. Nev/ plans. Volunteer. Th« Chance Shot, or Spacial Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguou* to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Eio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. Marck up the de las Anhnas. The country ; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter stream ; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffermg from hmiger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buifalo liide. Pamful consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent couirtry. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for treason. 300 CHAPTER XXX. March dovm the Cunarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Canon of the Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks. Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide- spread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the. Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature's nobleman. Wild horses and diflerent modes of catching them. Failm-e of expected reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. Th« lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, — its efiect. 309 CHAPTER XXXI. Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Coub- try between the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. Ad- mirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass ; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. Pilarch down the de las Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband, Sketch of factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of , reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo: killed, wounded, and prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. '' Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanchei and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender •o U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte. Country betv»een the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feastinf at camp. Crows' eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort Serio coraico adventiure with a wolf. IndJauB. Sonf ef Hm pigltt-bird. 811 ooNTBirra. CHAPTER XXXIL Night on tho Pniri*. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. Gold. Wonderf\il incident relative to a woimded boll. Indians. Join the Arapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Thefl. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. " Old Bob," and his adventures. A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicina- making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic "iew. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Aston- ishing scope of vision. The black-taUed deer. Peculiarity in horses. R©» ■tarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. 33 CHAPTER XXXra. Newspapers. False reperts. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancasttr. An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. TV weather. Return- of comrades to Fort Sweets of solitude. Expo* sure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Phitte. A ridge. A val- ley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowera in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a riieep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal crrek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. Tl» earavaa. " Big Timber." Country to the " Crossing." Big Salt Bottom, Flowers. A stranger of etlier lands. Difficulty with Indians. " Friday.** Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fwk, Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chiefl Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. Further detention. Sketcli of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route wi& Friday. MusquatoM. Observations. Friday as a hunter. 346 CHAPTER XXXrV. TVs Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indisas ia reference to a ftiture state of rewards and punishments. The " watar bulL" Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locality {or settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routei. Dangerous trarel ling. Oage village. Osages, and all about them. Arrival al Vaa BonBy GcndndiBg remarka. 3Pr ROCKY MOUJ^TAII\^ LIFE CHAPTER I Objects of a proposeH excursion. — Primary plans and movements.— A digression — Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders.— Sensations on a firsi visit to the border Prairies.— Frontier Indians. My puipose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, having hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, v/hen aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote regions, and I am so plied with almost numberless other questions, I know of no better way to dispose of them satisfactorily, tlian by doino- what I had thought of at the outset, to wit : writing a book. But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a kindred nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed; 3'et I must venture one more; and this much I promise at the start: it sliall be different, in most respects, from all that have preceded it ; and if 1 fail to produce an agreeable variety of adventures, interwoven v.-ith a large fund of valuable information, then I shall not have accomplished my purpose. Yet, ' why did I go ?--wliat was my object ?' Let me explain : Dame Nature bestowed upon me lavislily that innate curiosity, and fondness fo? things strange and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. Phrenologists would declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely developed ; and, certain it is, 1 have a great liking to tread upon unfre- quented ground, and mingle among scenes at once novel and romantic. Love of adventure, tlien, was the great prompter, while an enfeebled state of health sensibly admonished me to seek in other parts that invigorating air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere of a populous countiy. I also wished to acquaint myself with the geograpl y of those comparatively unexplored regions,— their geological cliaracter, curiosities, resources, and natural advantages, together with their real condition, present inhabitants, jiducements to emigrants, and most favorable localities for settlements, to enable me to speak from personal knowledge upon subjects so interesting to ^^ J..-. .,. . . \ at the present time, as are the above. Here, then, w*'-* -> * (29^ RENDEZYOUS OF OREGON EOQRASm. objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an important that would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratificatioii of Belfish curiosity. This much by way of prelude, — now to the task in hand. While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my intended enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendez- voused at Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to the new-formed settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, where I arrived in the raontii of May, 1841, with the design of becoming one of their number. In tliis, however, I was doomed to disappointment by being too late. A few weeks subsequent marked the return of several fur companies, from their annual excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting the regions adjacent to the head-waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, whose outv/ard trips are performed in the fall months. Impatient at delay and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at least some time to come, I made prompt arrangements with one of them, to accompany it, en route, as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed thereafter as circum- stances or inclination might suggest This plan of travelling was adhered to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which retarded its prosecution. I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The peculiar locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now intrcxluced, owing to tlie deep interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon coun- try, will doubtless call for more than a mere passing notice : I allude to the towns of Independence and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost verge of civilization, and upon the direct route to Oregon and regions adja- cent, they must retain and command, as the great starting points for emigrants and traders, that importance already assumed by general consent. Their faciUties of access from all parts of the Union, both by land and water, are nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its turbid waves within six miles of eitPier place, opening the highway of steam conununication, while numberless prime roads that converge from every direction, point to them as their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander may exchange his na- tive liills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two weeks ; and in half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the appointed ren- dezvous ; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his long over- land journey, from his own door, fully supplied with all the necessaries foi its successful termination. Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county. Mo., about four hundred miles west by north of St Louis, and contains a population of nearly ti,vo thousand. Westport is a smaU town in the same county, near the mouth of the Kansas river, — three miles from the Indian territory, and thirty below the U. S. Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular routes to Santa Fe and Oregon date their commencement at these places. The country in this vicinity is beginning to be generally settled by thrifty farmers, from whom all the articles necessary for travellers and traders, may be procured upon reasonable terms. Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer across the state line, and affords him the opportunity of taking his ini Uatory lessons amid the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading and emigrant companies remain encitn.jjfe«i ^ ./ : Tal weeks, to recruit KlN& ©F THE SilAWNEES. — Pa^e 38. BORDER-PRAIRIES AND INDIANS. 33 their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey before them. The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and with the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sport- ing beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smiling from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves. I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the pre- ceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The butter- cup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknov/n to the choicest collections of civilized life, on every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy. The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a sur- prising growth. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest foliage and noddmg to the vv'ind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the way- farer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short intervals, greeted the ear and tempted the taste. The lark, hnnet, and martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand con- cert, and made the air vocal with their v/arblings ; and the brown-plumed grouse, witiesft of the approach of man, till dangerously near, Vv^ould here and there em.erge wellnigh from under foot., and whiz through the air with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in tlie distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gamboUing in all the pride of native freedom. Amid such scenes I delight to wander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, foi the first time, he enters witliin the confines of the great western prairies. One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with the foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camp- ing-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belongs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen hunlred men, women and children. Their immediate neighbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts, — the former claiming a population of eleven Dundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connected with fchMO •«ib«s outstrip the nearer whites, in point of civilization and refine- 84 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING. ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and they themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occu- pying neat mansions with smiling fields around them. Nor are they altogetlier neglectful of the means of education. The mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect less backward than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare even, considering the smaliness of their number, to meet among them with persons of liberal education and accomplishments. Their mode of dress a-ssimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fashion has m.ade compara- tively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source for amusement in the uncouth appearance of their females on public occa- sions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head. — embanded by broad strips of figured tin, instead of ribbons, — and ears distended with large flattened rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and here another, solely habited in_a long wollen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all tha pride and pomposity of a regular city belle ! Such are sights by no meana uncommon. These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws ir^vituted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also,' be- coming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches of various christain denominations, estabhslied among them, are in a flour- ishing condition, and include with their members many whose lives of exam.plary piety adorn their professions. Taken as a v/hole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful and fertile section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and be- nign influences of enlightened christian effort, and furnish indubitable evidence of the susceptibility of the Aborigine for civihzation and i^i- provement. CHAPTER II. Preparations for leaving.— Srenes at Camp— TMngs as they appeared.— Simplio. ity of mountaineers.— Sleep in the open air.— Character, liabits, and costume of mountaineers.— Heterogeneous ingredients of Company.— The commandant.— En route— Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company.— Grouso.— Ehn Grove.— A storm. — Santa Fe traders.— Indian b.attle. After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was atleno-th fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly night before 1 reached my destination, and the camp-fires were already Shawnee Maiden. — Pcs-e 34. SCENES AT CAMP. 37 Jghted, in front of which the officiating cook was busily engaged in prepar- ing tiie evening repast. To the windward were the dusky forms of ten or fifteen men,--some standing, others sitting a la Turk, and others half- reclining or quietly extended at full length upon the ground,~watching the operative of the culinary department with great seeming interest. Enchairing myself upon a small ^g^ I began to survey the surrounding objects. In the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with ample canvass tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent form. To the right a small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white covering, disclosed itself to the eye, and presented an air of comfort. To tfie left the caravan animals, securely picketed, at regular distances of some fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of several acres. Close at hand a crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring adown the valley ; and still beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the breeze, and contributed its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The camp-fires in front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as above described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion of it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches upon the ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only await- ing supper to forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep. Every thing presented such an air of primitive-simplicity not altogether estranged to comfort, I began to think it nowise marvellous that this mode of life should afford such strong attractions to those inured to it. Supper disposed of, • the area within camp soon became tenanted by the devotees of slumber, — some snoring away most melodiously, and others conversing in an animated tone, now jovial, now grave, and at intervals, causing the night-air to resound with merry peals of laughter. At length the sleep-god began to assert his wonted supremacy, and silence in some measure reigned throughout camp. The bed of a mountaineer is an article neither complex in its nature nor difficult in its adjustment. A single buffalo robe folded double and spread upon the ground, with a rock, or knoll, or some like substitute for a pillow, furnishes the sole base-work upon which the sleeper reclines, and, envel- oped in an additional blanket or robe, contentedly enjoys his rest. Wishing to initiate myself to the new mode of hfe before me, I was not slow to imi- tate the example of the promiscuous throng, and the lapse of a few moments found me in a fair way to pass quite pleasantly my first night's repose in the open air. With the first gray of morning I arose refreshed and invigorated, nor even suffered the slightest ill effect from my unusual exposure to a humid and unwholesome night-air. The whole camp, soon after, began to disclose a scene of cheerfulness and animation. The cattle and horses, unloosed from their fastenings, and accompanied by keepers, were again permitted to roam at large, and in a short time were most industriously engaged in administering to the calls of appetite. A^er breakfast I improved the opportunity to look about and scan more closely the appearance of my compagnons de voyage. This opened to view a new field for the study of men and manners. A mountain company generally comprises some quaint specimens of kuman nature, and, perhaps, few more so than the one to which 1 4 38 CHARACTER AND COSTUME OF MOUNTAINEERS., introduce the readier. To particularize would exceed my limits, nor could I do full justice to the subject in hand by dealing in generalities ; — ^how- ever, I yield to the latter. There are many crude originals mixed with the prime ingredients of these companies. A genuine mountaineer is a problem hard to solve. He seems a kind of sui genus, an oddity, both in dress, language, and appearance, from the rest of mankind. Associated with nature in her most simple forms by habit and manner of life, he gradually learns to despise the restraints of civilization, and assimilates himself to the rude and unpolished character of the scenes with which he is most conversant. Frank and open in his manners and generous in hie disposition, he is, at the same time, cautious and reserved. In his frankness he will allow no one to acquire an undue advantage of him, though in his generosity, he will oftentimes expend the last cent to assist a fellow in need. Implacable in his hatred, he is also steadfast in his friendship, and knows no sacrifice too great for the benefit of those he esteems. Free as the pure air he breathes, and proudly conscious of his own independence, he will neither tyrannize over others, nor submit to be trampled upon, — and is always prepared to meet the perils he may chance to encounter, with an undaunted front. Inured to hardship and deprivation, his wants are few, and he is the last to repine at the misfortunes which so often befall him. Patience becomes as it were interwoven with his very nature, and he sub- in' \, io the greatest disasters without a murmur. His powers of endurance, from frequent exercise, attain a strength and capacity almost incredible, — such as are altogether unlmown to the more delicately nurtured. His is a trade, to become master of which requires a long and faithful apprentice- ship. Of this none seems more conscious than himself, and woe to tho *^ greenhorn^' who too prematurely assumes to be "journeyman." His ideas, his arguments, his illustrations, all partake of the unpolished sim- plicity of his associations; though abounding often in the most vivid imagery, pointed inferences, and luminous expositions, they need a key to make them intelligible to the novice. His dress and appearance are equally singular. His skin, from constant exposure, assumes a hue almost as dark as that of the Aborigine, and his features and physical structure attain a rough and hardy cast. His hair, through inattention, becomes long, coarse, and bushy, and loosely dangles upon his shoulders. His head is surmounted by a' low crowned wool-hat, or a rude substitute of his own manufacture. His clothes are of buckskin, gaily fringed at the seams with strings of the same material, cut and made in a fashion peculiar to himself and asso- ciates. The deer and buflalo furnish him the required covering for his feet, which he fabricates at the impulse of want. His waist is encircled with a belt of leather, holding encased his butcher-knife and pistols — wb;le from his neck is suspended a bullet-pouch securely fastened to the belt in front, and beneath the right arm hangs a pov/der-horn transversely from his shoulder, behind which, upon the strap attached to it, are affixed his bullet- mould, ball-screw, wiper, awl, &c. With a gim-stick made of some hard wood, and a good rifle placed in his hands, carrying from thirty to thirty-five balls to the pound, the reader will have before him a correct like- ness of a genuine mountaineer, when fully equipped. This costume prevails not only in the mountains proper, but also in iht THE COMMANDANT. 39 iesa settled portions of Oregon and California. The mountaineer is his own manufacturer, tailor, shoemaker, and butcher ; and, fully accoutred and sup- plied with ammunition in a good game country, he can always feed and clothe himself, and enjoy all the comforts his situation affords. No wonder, then, his proud spirit, expanding with the intuitive knowledge of noble inde- pendence, becomes devotedly attached to those regions and habits that per- mit him to stalk forth, a sovereign amid nature's lovliest works. Our (^.ompany, however, were not all mountaineers ; some weie only " entered apprentices," and others mere " greenJwrns " — taking every thing into consideration, perhaps, it was quite as agreeably composed as circum- stances would well admit of. In glancing over the crowd, I remarked several countenances sinister and malign, but consented to suspend judg- ment till the character of each should be proven by his conduct. Hence, in the succeeding pages, I shall only speak of characters as I have occa- sion to speak of men. As a whole, the party before me presented a choice collection of local varieties, — here was the native of France, of Canada, of England, of Hudson Bay, of Connecticut, of Pennsylvania, of New York, of Kentucky, of Ilhnois, of Missouri, and of the Rocky Mountains, all congregated to act in unison for a specified purpose. It m'ght well require the pencil of Hogarth to picture such a motley group. Our company had not as yet attained its full nui^ercial strength ; a small division of it was some distance in advance, another behind, and at least two days would be necessary to complete the arrangements prior tc leaving. The idea of spending two days in camp, notwithstanding the beauty of its location, was by no means agreeable ; but as the case was beyond remedy, I quietly submitted, and managed to while away the tedious interval as beet I could. A brief acquaintance with our commandant, found him a man of small stature and gentlemanly deportment, though savoring somewhat of arro- gance and self-sufficiency,— faults, by the way, not uncommon in little men. He had been engaged in the Indian trade for several years past, and had seen many " ups and downs" in former Mfe. Graduating from West Point in his younger days, he soon after received the commission of Lieutenant of Dragoons, in the U. S. Army, and served in that capacity for some six or eight years, on the frontier and at i'orts Gibson and Leaven- worth. Possessed of the confidence of his men, his subsequent resignation was the occasion of much regret with those he had been accustomed te command. The private soldier loved him for his generous frankness and readiness to overlook minor offences, even upon the first show of peni- tence. Such unbounded popularity at length excited the jealousy of his brother officers, and gave birth to a combination against him, which nothing could appease short of his removal from the army. Aware of his ardent tem- perament and strong party notions as a politician, and equally violent upon the opposite side, they managed to inveigle him into a discussion of the measures and plans of the then administration of national affairs. Argu- ing in the excitement of feeling, he made use of an unguarded expression, denouncing the Clilef Magistrate. This was immediately noted down, and charges were promptly preferred against him, for " abuse of a superior tfficeri^^ The whole aflkir was then referred to a Court Martial, composed 40 COMICAL APPEARANCE OF A MEXICAN COMPANY. exclusively of political opponents. The evidence was so strong he h&d little to expect from their hands, and consequently tlirew up his commission, to avert the disgrace of being casMered^ since which he has been engaged in his present business. He appeared to be a man of general information, and well versed in science and literature. Indeed, I felt highly gratified in making an acquain* tance so far congenial to my own taste. An accession of two waggons and four men having completed our number, the morning of September 4th was ushered in with tiie din of preparations for an immediate start. The lading of the waggons was ther. severally overhauled and more compactly adjusted, and our arms were depos ited with other freight until such time as circumstances should call for them All was hurry and confusion, and ofttimes the sharp tone of angry disputf. arose above tlie jargon of the tumultuous throng. At length the word was given to advance, and in an instant the whole caravan was in motion ; those disconnected with the v/aggons, mounted upon horseback, led the van, followed by the teams and their attendants in Indian file, as the loose cattle and horses brought up the rear. The scene to me portrayed a novelty quite amusing. I began to think a more comical- looking set could scarcely be found any v/here ; but the events of the day soon convinced me of my mistake. Travelling leisurely along for some six or eight miles, strange objects were seen in the distance, v/hich, on nearer approach, proved a companj of Mexican traders, on their way to Independence for an equipment of goods. As they filed past us, I had full scope for the exercise of my risibilities. If a mountaineer and a mxountain company are laugljable objects, a Mexican and a Mexican company are triply so. The first thing that excites attention upon meeting one of this mongrel race, is his ludicrous apology for pantaloons. This is generally made of deer or bufi>vio skin, similar to our present fashion, except the legs, which are left unsewed from the thigh downwards ; a loose pair of cotton drawers, cut and made in like manner, and v/orn beneath, imparts to his every movements a most grotesque appear- ance, leaving at each step of the wearer his denuded leg, with that of his pantaloons on one side, and drawers on the other, fluttering in the breeze ! The next tiling that meets the gaze, is his black, slouching, broad-brimmed hat, {sombrero,) though little darker than the features it obscures, and far less so than the coarse, jet-colored hair that protrudes from beneath it, and falls confusedly upon his shoulders. Next, if the weather tolerates the habit, a coarse parti-colored blanket (charape) envelopes the body, from his shoulders downwards, fixed to its place by an aperture in the centre through which the head is thrust, and securely girted at pleasure by a waist-band of leather. His arms, if arms he has, consist of a rude bow and arrows slung to his back, or an old fusee, not unfrequently without flint, lock, or ammunition ; but doubly armed, and proudly, too. is he who can carry a good rifle with powder and lead— even if he he ignorant of their use. Thus appearing, these creatures, some mounted upon mules, vv^ith heavy spurs attached to their heels, (bearing gafis an inch and a half in length, jin- king in response to the rolHng motions of the wearer,) ensconced in bungling Spanish saddles, (finished with such ample leather skirts as almost hid the diminutive aaimal that bore them, and large wooden stirrups, some three Wagon Train. — Pa^e 40. i» A STORM. 43 inchei broad,) were riding at their ease ; while others, half naked, were trudging along on foot, driving their teams, or following the erratic mules of the caravan, to heap upon them the ready maledictions of their prolific Tocabulary. Passing on, we were accosted : " Como lo pasa, cabelleros ?" The salutation was returned by a simple nod. ** Habla la lengua Espanola, senors ?" A shake of the head was the only response. " Es esta el camino de Independenca ?" No reply. " Carraho ! Que quantos jornadas tenemos en la camino de Indepen- tfenca?" Still no one answered. ** Scha ! Maldijo tualmas ! Los Americanos esta dijabelo !'' By this time the crowd had passed and left us no longer annoyed by its presence. The conclusion irresistibly forced itself upon my mind, "if these are true specimens of Mexicans, it is no wonder they incite both the pity and contempt of the rest of the world." Subsequent intercourse with ihem, however, has served to convince me that first impressions, in this case, instead of exceeding the reality, fell far short of the true mark ! Continuing our course, we saw large numbers of prairie-hens, and suc- ceeded in killing several. These birds assimilate tiie English grouse in appearance, and are of a dusky-brown color, — with short tails, and narrow- peaked wings, — and little less in size than the domestic fowl. Their flesh IS tender and of superior flavor. When alarmed, they start with a cack- ling noise, and whiz through the air not unlike the partridge. They are very numerous on the frontier prairies, and extend to the Rocky Moun- tains, Oregon, California and New Mexico. About sundown we reached a small creek known as Elm Grove, and encamped for the night, with every indication of an approaching storm. Strict orders were accordingly given for securing the animals, and the process of "picketing" was speedily under way. This consisted in driving small stakes ("pickets") firmly into the ground, at proper dis- tances apart, to which the animals were severally tied by strong cords, — a plan that should find nightly practice among all travellers of the grand prairies, to prevent those losses which, despite the utmost precaution, will not unfrequently occur. Timber proved quite scarce in this vicinity, and it was with great difficulty we procured sufficient for cooking purposes. The men now began to prepare for the coming storm. Some disposed of themselves in, and others under, the waggons, making barricades to the windward ; others erected shantees, by means of slender sticks, planted in parallel rows five or six feet apart, and interwoven at the tops, so as to form an arch of suitable height, over which was spread a roofage of robes or blankets, — while others, snugly ensconced beneath the ready pitched tent, bade de- fiance to wind and weather. Being one of those selecting a place under the waggons, I retired at an tarly hour to snooze away the night ; and despite the anticipations of an inpleisant time, I gcxin lest siysSf ?n a sweet slumber, utterly uncon- sewai of tveiy thing aioimd ine. In thoughts I wandered ba!ck to tht 44: AN INDIAN BATTLIS. home of my childhood, to converse with friends whose names and featurea fond memory has chained to my heart, while imagination roamed with. delight amid those scenes endeared to me by earliest and most cherished recollections. But all the sv/eet pencillings of fancy were at once spoiled by the uncivil intrusion of a fnJl torrent of water, that came pouring from the hill-side and forced its impetuous way into the valley below, — deluging me from head to foot in its descent. My condition, as the reader may well suppose, was far from being enviable. However, resolved to make the best of a bad thing, after wringing the water from my drenched bed- ding, 1 selected another spot and again adjusted myself to pass the dreary interval till morning ; this I succeeded in doing, — how or in what man- ner, it is unnecessary to say. Sleep was utterly out of the question, and I am quite sure I never hailed the welcome morn with greater delight than on this occasion. Others of the company fared almost as bad as myself, and there was scarcely a dry bed in camp. But the little concern evinced by tlie moun- taineers for their mishap, surprised me moGt. They crawled from their beds, reeking with wet, as good hum.oredly as tliough their nocturnal bath had in no v/ise disturbed their equanimity, or impaired their comfort. The morning proved so disagreeable two of our party, who were accompa- nying us for the purpose of adventure, concluding this a kind of adventure they were unwilling to meet, wisely resolved to take the back track, and accordingly left for hom.e. Towards niglit the rain ceased, and, the clouds having dispersed, we were again en route. Travelling on till late, we. encamped in the open prairie, and early the next morning resumed our course. Having reached a small creek, about lO o'clock, we halted for breakfast, where another Santa Fe company came up. This proved a party of Americans, with some six or eight waggons and a large number of horses and mules, on their homeward journey. They had also in their possession an elk nearly full grown, two black-tailed deer,* an antelope and a white-tailed fawn. Through them we received intelligence of a battle recently fought be- tween the Pawnee and Arapaho Indians, at the lower Cimarone Springs, south of the Arkansas. The former had been defeated with greai slaughter, — losing their horses and seventy-two of their bravest war- riors, to increase the trophies and enliven the scalp-dances of their ene- mies. This action occurred directly upon the Santa Fe trail, and the dead yet bestrewed the prairie, as our informants passed, half devoured by wolves, and filling the air with noisome stench as ihey wasted beneath the influence of a scorching sun. An approving murmur ran through the crowd while listening to the re- cital, and all united to denounce the Pawnees as a dangerous and viillan- ous set, and wished for their utter extermination. * The black-tailed deer are larger than the common deer, and are found only in ihe snow-mountains. For a lescription of them the reader is referred to subwqueni 46 CHAPTER III. rhe Pottowatomies.— Crossbig tlie Wakarousha.—Adventure at the Springs.— 1^ Caw chief.— Kansas river and Indians.— Pleading for whiskey.— Hickory timber. —Prairie tea.— Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue.— Wild honey.— Return party.— Mountaineers in California. — Adventure with a buffalo,— Indian atrocities.— Liquor and the Fur Trade.— Strict guard.— High prices. Continuing our course, we bore to the right, and struck the northern or Platte trail, and, after travelling eight or ten miles, made camp upon a email creek skirted with heavy timbei, called Black Jack. An early start the next morning brought us to the Wakarousha, a considerable tributary of the Kansas, where a junction was formed with our advance party. The territory lying upon this stream as far south as Council Grove, (a noted place on the Mexican trail, 144 miles west from Independence,) belongs to the Pottowatomies. These Indians are very wealthy and are partially civilized, — the most of them being tillers of the ground. Their dwelling* are of very simple construction, — large strips of bark firmly tied to a frame-work of poles with small apertures to admit light, furnishing the ex- terior, while the interior is finished by the suspension of two or three blankets between the apartments, as partitions, and erecting a few scafiblda for bedsteads. The fire-place in warm weather is out of doors, but in the winter it occupies the centre of the building, from which the smoke- unaided by jamb or chimney — is left to find its way through an opening in the roof. Some, however, are beginning to improve in their style of architecture, and now and then we find a tolerably spacious and comforta- ble house among them. The Catholics have several missionaries with this tribe, and are using great exertions, if not to ameliorate their condition, at least, to proselyte them to their own peculiar faith. The missionaries of other christian denominations are also devoting themselves for their benefit, and not un- frequently with gratifying success. The remainder of the day was occupied in crossing the creek — a task by no means easy, — its banks being so precipitous we were compelled to lower our waggons by means of ropes. In so doing it required the utmost caution to prevent them from oversetting or becoming broken in the ab- rupt descent. The night following was passed upon the opposite bank. After travel- ling some twelve miles the next day, we encamped a short distance to the right of the trail, at a place known as the Springs. Scarcely had we halted when two footmen appeared from an opposite direction — one of them leading a horse — whom a nearer advance proved to be a white man and an Indian. The former was immediately recognized by our engages as an old acquaintance, by the name of Brown, who had been their recent compagnon de voyage from the mountains. His story was soon told. A few days subsequent to his arrival in the States, a difiiculty had occurrea 46 KANSAS INDIANS. lietween him and another person, who received a severe wound from a jnife by the hand of Brown during the afiray, when tlie latter was ne- cessitated to consult his own safety by a hurried flight. He accordingly bade farewell both to enemies and law, and left for the Indian country — travelling most of the way by night. Two weeks afterwards he arrived in the Kansas nation, and remained with the Indian now accompanying hhn, to await our return. Having listened to his story, I began to survey his strange companion. He was a village chief of the Kansas (Caw) tribe, and the first of his race I had ever seen so nearly dressed in his native costume. In person he was tall and stout-built, — with broad shoulders and chest, brawny arms and legs, and features evincing the uncontaminated blood of the Aborigi- ne. His hair was closely shaved to the scalp, v/ith tlie exception of a narrow tuft centre wise from forehead to crown, so trimmed it stood on end like the bristles of a warring hog; then his whole head and face were so lavislily bedaubed with vermiHon, our experienced city belles would doubt- less have considered it an unpardonable waste of that useful material! A string of bears'-claws, tastefully arranged, encircled his neck, while ample folds of brass wire above the wrists and elbows furnished his armil- lary, and from his ears hung rude ornaments, — some of silver, otliers of brass or iron — cruelly distending the flexible members that bore them. A dirty white blanket drawn closely around the shoulders enveloped the body, which, with a breech-cloth and leggins, formed his sole covering. A bow and arrows, slung to his back by a strap passing over the left shoul- der and under the right arm, were his only weapons. A belt, begirting the waist, sustained his tobacco-pouch and butcher-knife, and completed his attire and armament. Thus habited appeared before us the Caw chief, holding in one hand the lead-rope of his horse, and in the other the wing of a wild turkey, with a a long-stemmed pipe, carved from a hard red stone, handsomely wrought and finely polished. Taken altogether, he presented an amusing spectacle — a real curiosity. Having shaken hands with the company and turned his horse to graze, in a few moments his pipe was subjected to its destined use, and, as the inhaled fumes merrily curved from his mouth and nostrils, he ever and anon pre- sented it for the indulgence of the bystanders. His knowledge of English was limited to the simple monosyllable " good," which ho took occasion to pronounce at intervals as he thought proper. Sept. 8th. Continuing on, we encamped towards night at a small creek within six miles of the crossing of the Kansas river. Here a bevy of our chief's villagers, rigged in their rude fashion, came flocking up, apparently to gratify their curiosity in gazing at us, but really in expectation of some trifling presents, or in quest of a .favorable opportunity for indulging their inate propensities for theft. However, they found little encourage- ment, as the vigilance of our guards more than equalled the cunning of our visitors. During their stay we were frequently solicited for donations of *,obacco and ammunition, (as they expressed it.) in payment for passing ikrough their country. This was individually demanded with all the assu- rance of government revenue officers, or the keepers of regular toll-bridges, •trongly reminding one of the petty nations upon the borders of Canaan The G\w CiilKF. — Pa'rc 46. , PLEADING FOR WHISKEY. 49 hat required tribute of tlie Israelites passing through them to ])ossess the ,and of their forefathers. Sept. 9th. Early in the forenoon we came to the Kansas, and were em- ployed till nearly ni^ht in eflecting a ford. This proved rather difficult, as the water was deep and the botto u sandy; — the course, bearing directly across, till near midway of the river, follows the current for sLx or eight Hundred yards, and then turns abruptly to the opposite shore. The Kansas, at the crossing, was not far from six hundred yards wide, with steep banks of clay and sand. The fording accomplished, we travelled some six miles, and encamped for the night. Our visitors yet honored us v/ith their pres- ence ; some, under pretence of trading horses ; others, of bartering for tobacco, whiskey, coffee, and ammunition ; but most of them for the real purpose of begging and steaUng. The Caw Indians are a branch of the Osage tribe — speaking the same language, and identified b) the same manners and customs. They num- ber a population of sixteen hundred, and claim all the territory v/est of the Delaware, Shawnee, and Pottowatomie line, to the head waters of the Kansas. Their main village is on the left bank of the river, a few miles above the crossing. Tiieir houses are built Pav/nee fa: hion, being coni- form and covered with a thick coat of dirt, presenting a holo at the apex to emit the smoke, and another at the side to serve the double purpose of a door and window. The whole building describes a complete circle, in whose centre is placed the hearth-fire, and at the circumference the couches of its inmates. Its floor is the bare ground, and its ceiling the grass, brush, and poles which uphold the superincumbent earth forming the roof and sides. The Caws are generally a lazy and slovenly people, raising but little corn, and scarcely any vegetables. For a living they depend mostly upon the chase. Their regular hunts are in the summer, fall, and winter, at which time they all leave for the buffalo range, and return laden with a full supply of choice provisions. The robes and skins thus obtained, furnish tlieir clothing and aiUcles for traffic. As yet, civilization has made but small advances among them. Some, however, are tolerably well educated, and a Protestant mission established with them, is beginning ua oiuw "uut oucc^i^orul operations for their good, — while two or three families of half-breeds, near by, occupy neat houses, and have splendid farms and improvements, thus affording a wholesome contrast to the poverty and misery of then* rude neighbors. The distance from Independence to this place, by the mountain trail, is 6ome eighty miles, over a beautiful and fertile country, which I shall here- after take occasion to notice more fully. Before leaving, we were further increased by the accession of two Canadian voyageurs — French of course. Our force now numbered some twentv-four — one sufficiently formidable for all the dangers of the route. Sept. IQth. Resuming our way, we proceeded till late at night, still attended bv our Indian friends ; (noL the originals, but a " few more of the same sort, who kindly supplied their pLces,- -seeking to levy fresh drafts upon patience and generosity.) Tiiese were more importunate for liquor than anjr preceding them — though, in fact, the whole nation is nowise remiss in their devotion to King AlcoTiol One fellow, in particular, exhausted ail hin so SCENES AT NOR'ra FORK OF BLUE. ingeniuty to obtain tlie wherewith to " wet his whistle." He was a sHtIt- el-faced old man, and occasioned miicli sport, from his suppHcations is broken Englisli, which ran pretty much as follows : " Big man, me. Chief, — Black Warrior. Me, American soldier ! Love Americans, heap. Big man, me ! Love whiskey, heap. White man good. Whiskey good. Love whiskey, me, — drink heap whiskey. No give me whiskey drink ? Me, Chief. Me, American. Me, Black War- rior. Heap big man, me ! Love Americans. Take Mm hand, shake. White ma i good. VV'hiskey good. Me love whiskey ! Love him heap ! No give Black Warrior whiskey? No? — one leetle drink? Whiskey good. Me love him. Make Black ^Varrior strong. Big man, me, — Chief. American soldier. Me love American. Shake him hand. Pight him, bad Indian, no love white man. Kill him. White man good. Me love white man. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey. No give Black Wari'ior whiskey, — one ^etlo drink ? Me, Chief. Big man, me." Etc. In this strain the old fellow continued so long as he found listeners, but without success, although, as I afterwards learned, two v/aggons were freighted with the noxious article ; none of it was suffered to find its vv^ay down the throats of our thirsty guests. Pursuing a v/esterly course, nearly parallel with the Kansas, for three successive days, we passed the 14th encamped at Big Vermilion, for the purpose of procuring a quantity of hickory for gun-sticks and bow-timber. Hickory is unknown to the Rocky Mountains, and this being the last place on the route affording it, each of our company took care to provide himself with an extra gun-stick. Small pieces, suitable for bows, find market among the mountain Indians, ranging at the price of a robe each, while gun-sticks command one dollar apiece, from the hunters and trap- pers. We were also careful to provide an extra quantity of ox-bows, axle-trees, &c., as % resource in case of accidents or breakage. These are articles with which every caravan should be furnished on a journey across the grand prairies. "% In this vicinity a species of shrub, which I hafffcefore noticed in various olaces, (designated as "red-root" by our voyageurs,/jbecarae quite abundant The red-root is highly esteemed as a substitute for tea, and my own expe- rience attests its superiority of flavor to any article of that kind imported from China. In appearance it is very similar to the tea of commerce, and it afibrds at all times a most excellent beverage. It is found only upon the prairies between tlie frontiers and Big Blue, and in some portions of the tlocky Mountains. Leaving Big Vermilion, we travelled rapidly the two days subsequent, and arrived at the North Fork of Blue, — a large and deep stream, tributary to the Kansas. We were here detained till the 24th~the creek being im- passable on account of high water. However, the beauty of the place and variety of its landscape scenery, served in a great measure to alleviate the weariness of delay. The coun- try was most agreeably interspersed with hills, uplands, and dales — amply watered and .variegated with woods and prairies, attired in all the gaudy loveliness of wild-flowers. The busy bee, afraid of the cruel persecuticna ni mai, had here sought a secure retreat to pursue, unmolested betr ADVENTURE WITH A BUF1*'AL0. 61 melliferous employ, and fill the dark chambers of her oaken palaces yeai by year with honeyed stores. The air was almost vocal Avith the music of her wings, and the flowerets were enlivened by the gentle touches of her embrace. The odor of honey filled the breeze, which, wafting the mingled melody of birds and insects vnili the incense of flowers, o'er the smiling prairie till lost in space, seemed more like the breath of Eden than the exhalations of earth. As might be supposed, we were not slow in levying upon the delicious Btores, which the industrious insects, claiming this as their dominion, had laid away for themselves. During our stay no less than four bee-trees were levelled, and every pan, kettle, pail, keg, or empty dish in the whole camp was filled to overflowing, and every stomach to repletion, with honey of almost crystalline transparency. The great abundance of deer, turkey and otlier game in the vicinity, also contributed tlieir share of amusement, and enlivened the interval of detention. At length, by a partial subsidence of the water, we were enabled to efiect a crossing and renew our journey. Pursuing a course W. N. W., on the 27th we met a small party of whites on their return from the mountains, and, yielding to the temptation presented by a luxuriant and well-wooded valley, with a pretty streamlet, the two parties made common camp. Our new acquaintances were taking a large drove of horses, and several do- mesticated bufllilo, v/ith them to the States. Their horses had been mostly obtained from Upper California, the year previous, by a band of mountain- eers, under the lead of one Thompson. This band, numbering twenty-two in all, had made a descent upon the Mexican ranchos and captured between two and three thousand head of horses and mules. A corps of some sixty Mexican cavalry pursued and attacked them, but were defeated and pursued in turn, with the loss of several mules and their entire camp equipage : after which the adventurers were permitted to regain their mountain homes, without further molestation ; but, in passing the cheerless desert, between the Sierra Nevada and Colorado, the heat, dust, and thirst were so in- tolerably oppressive, that full one half of their animals died. The remain- der, however, were brought to rendezvous, and variously disposed of, to suit the wants and wishes of their captors. Tlhe buffalo, in possession of our wayfaring friends, had been caught while calves, and reared by domestic cows. They appeared as tame and easily managed as other cattle. One of them, a two-year-old heifer, was rather vicious in its habits, having been spoiled, while a calf, by the too great familiarity of its keeper. After listening to a full exposition of its bad qualities, our commandant ofl^ered to bet he could handle, or even ride, the unruly beast at pleasure. " Can you ?" said the owner. " Do it, and my best horse is yours !" "I take all such offers!" returned the commandant. "A horse couid not be easier earned !" he continued, stepping towards the ill-tutored ani- mal. " Come, boss ! — Poor boss ! — bossy, bossy !" addi-essing the buffalo, which comiuenced advancing, — at first slowly, then, with a sudden bound, ran full tilt against the admirer, leaving him prostrate upon the ground, ai it turned away, dancing and throwing its heels exultingly at the exploit. "Bless my stars !" he exclaimed, on recovering himself; "I'd ii« idea twould wrve me so I" 52 LIQUOR AND THE FUR TRADK. " Ha, hsL, ha !" retorted the ovraer. " You seem to pick upon a straugt place for a snooze ! What in the world were you doing before that skittish beast ?" The roar of laughter which followed, told how well the joke was relished by the crowd. Rapoi-ts from the mountains brought intelligence of recent difTiciiltieB betv/een the wliites and Sioux, — tlie latter having murdered several ti-ap- pers. A battle had also been fought in the Snake country, in which the Sioux were defeated v/ith a loss of tvTnty killed and wounded, — the whites sufFered in the loss of their leader (Frapp) and four others. Another affair had come off, at Fort Platie, between two factions of that tribe, while on a drunken spree, resulting in the death of Schena-ChischiUe, their chief, and several of his party. The most acceptable item of intelligence was the probability of oui reacliiug tlie buffilo range in ten days, at least, where we should find vast quantities of those animals. This led our voyageurs to expatiate anew upon the choice varieties of the feast of good things we might expect on that occasion. Bidding adieu to our transient camp-mates, we were soon again en route. The day follov/ing. being unfit for travel, was devoted to overhauling and re-adjusting the freight of the waggons. Here, for the first time, I ascer- tained the fact, that a portion of the above consisted of no less than twenty-four barrels of alcohol, designed for the Indian trade ! Tiiid announcement may occasion surprise to many, when aware that the laws of Congress prohibit, under severe penalties, the introduction of liquor among the Indians, as an article of traffic, — subjecting the of- fender to a heavy fine and confiscation of effects. Trading companies, however, find ways and means to smuggle it tlirough, by the waggon-load, under the very noses of government officers, stationed along the frontiers to enforce the observance of laws, I am irresistibly led to the conclusion, that these gentry are wilfully neg- ligent of their duty ; and, no doubt, there are often weighty inducements presented to them to shut their eyes, close their ears, and avert their faces, to let the guilty pass unmolested. It seems almost impossible that a blind man, retaining the senses of smell, taste and hearing, could remain igno- rant of a thing so palpably plain. The alcohol is put into waggons, at Westport or Independence, in open day-light, and taken into the territory, in open dciy light, where it remains a week or more awaiting the arrival of its owners. Two Government agents reside at Westport, while six or eight companies of Dragoons are stationed at Fort Leavenworth, ostensibly for the purpose of protecting tie Indians and suppressing this infamous traffic, — and yet it suffers no diminution from their vigilance! What faithful public officers ! How prompt in the discharge of their whoU duly ! These gentlemen cannot plead ignorance as an excuse. They well know that alcohol is one of the principal articles in Indian trade — this fact is notorious— no one pretends to deny it ; not even the traders themselves — and yet, because no one takes the trouble to produce a specimen of the kind of freight taken, more or less, by all mountain companies, and forci them to Me, taste^ toucht and smelly they affect ignorance ! It is thus tbf HIGH PRICES. benevolent designs of our Government are consummated by these pension' ere upon the public treasury ! Had they the will so to do, it would be no difficult matter to put a stop to all such expoitations. The departure of any one of these companies for the mountains, is a tiling too difficult to be effected unknown and steakhily. It becomes public talk for days and even weeks previous. Scarcely anything would be easier than for those whose business it is, to keep on the look out, and enforce the law to its fuil extent upon each of- fender. A few examples of this kind would interpose an insuperable bar- rier to the furtlier prosecution of an illicit traffic in the manner it is at present carried on. A few faithful public officers, and attentive to tlieir duty, regardless of fear or /aror, would soon accomplish an object so de- sirable. In subsequent pages of this work I shall have occasion to notice a few of the many evils resulting from tliis criminal neglect,— but at present forbear further remarks. Our arms were now put in order for immediate use, — each individual ap- portioning to himself a good supply of ammunition, to be ready at ail times in ca^e of attack. Guards were ordered to be constantly on the alert. The company was divided into two parties, — one for day and the other for night guard, ai)d these again Were subdivided for alternate relieves, — thus, one (if each subdivision ser\iDg a day and a night, and the resen^e the day and night succeeding. The day-guard consisted of only two persons. U]ion duly every other day, but tlie night-guard numbered ten, — two being on duty for two hours were then relieved by the two next in succession, and they by the next, and so on. Strict orders were also given to prevent any from leaving camp, oi part- ing from the caravan while travelling. In fact, every thing began to as- sume a warlike aspect, as if we were really in danger and apprehensive of an immediate rencounter. Several bo?:8s of clothing, &c., were also opened for such as wished to purchase. But every article disposed of v/as sold at an enormous rate: tobacco bringing from one to three dollars yjer lb., according to quality ; batcher-knives, from one dollar to one fifty each; hose, one dollar per pair ; shirts, from three to five dollars each, according to quality ; blank- ets, irom twelve to sixteen dollars ; coats, from fifteen to forty dollars; coarse tdioes, four dollars per pair; six-penny calicoes, fifty cts. per yd.; beads, one dollar per bunch, etc. These were of an indifferent quality, and afTordod the vender some three or four hundred per cent, advance upon purchase-price. In fact, with regard to prices, conscience had no- thing to do with the xapJ^-sr, H CHAPTER IV Country from the frontiers to Big Blue, its geological character, (fee— Novel cure foi fever and ague.— Indian trails.— Gavne.— Sega rabbits. — Antelope, and their pe culiarities. — Beaver cuttings. — Big Blue and its vicinity. — Dangerous country.— Pawnee bravery.— Nigiit-alarrn, (Prairies on fire.)— Platte river.— Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanatory of their phenome- non.— Something to laugh at.—" Big Jim," and the antelope. Sept. '26t1i. We are now camped ^.ipon a -^mal] creek, nearly destitute of timber, within two miles of Big l>]ue, or the N. W. branch of the Kansas river. The geograpliy of this part of the coimtry is incorrectly described upon all tjie published maps I have yet seen. The Republican Fork, whicli is the principal branch of the Kansas, is uniformly represented rr: the most north v.'c^tcrly branch of tliat river, forming a junction with it at or below the usual cro^ssing. This is not^Alic case. The two fork-? of Blue, from tlie northv/cst, united, form a large and im.portant stream, which, according to my impression, discharges Its waters into the Kansas itself, and not into the Republican. Of this, ho^vover, I am not quite positive. But be that as it may, admitting the Republican to be the main stream. Big Blue must be, as a matter of course, the most northwesterly branch of the Kansas river. Proceeding up the Blue, the geological character of the country under- o-ies ?.vi. entire and radical change, and the traveller is introduced to a diire> ent order of things from that previously observed. Perhaps, therefore, it is not out of place to present a general review of the territory thus far. The interval from the frontier of Missouri to Big Blue, a distance up- wards of two hundred miles, affords great uniformity in all its more promi- nent characteristics. It generally comprises beautifully undulating prai- ries, of a moist argillaceous soil, rich in sedimentary deposites and vege- table matter. It is somewhat rocky in places, but well watered by the almost innumerable streams that find their way into the Kansas, Platte and Arkansas rivers. The creeks, v>^ith but few exceptions, are heavily timbered with oak, hickory, walnut, maple, cottonwood, and otlier varieties fon!id in more eastern forests. The hills too, in some parts, aie more than usually abundant in springs, and covered with stately groves, as taste- fully arranged as if planted by the hand of man, while iuxiiriant grass and fragrant flowers usurp the place of underbrush. The prairies, hem- med in on every side by the woodlands s^kirting the v;ater-courses, present to the eye proud oceans of flowery verdure, tossing their wavelets to the breeze and perfuming the air witli thebreathi ( f spring. The streams are clear, with rocJcy or pebbly bottoms and high, steep banks — abounding in choice specimens of the finny tribes and varieties of ^hi^ testa.ceous order, of the geims muscula. The valley of the Kansas ii SAGE RABBn^S. 56 wide and of a deep brown vegetable mould, susceptible of a high state of cultivation. The whole country is well adapted to the double purpose of agriculture and the growth of stock. The prevailing rock is sandstone of various shades and compactness, with siliceous and fossiliferous limestone. These specifications are gene- rally exhibited in a detached and fragmentary form, but rarely in strata as disclosed upon the surface. Taken as a whole, tlie temtory liolds out many inducements to emi- grants, and, whenever brought into market, will no doubt become speedily ind thickly populated.* Sept. ZOih. We are again under headway. A French engage, who had been suffering for several days past from a severe attack of the fever and ague, experienced a sudden and novel cure. Unable to travel, quar- ters were prepared for him ia one of the v/hiskey waggons, where he was comfortably disposed of as we continued our course. In passing a rough place the vv'aggon overset, when out came tiie invalid head foremost, and out came the whiskey barrels showering full upon him ! The suddenness of the fall, v/ith the surprise and excitement of the occasion, — one, or both, or all, or some other cause unknown, effected a complete cure, — for cer» tain it is, he did not suffer another attack of the fever and ague during the v.'hole journey, and the next day was able to discharge his duties as well aw ever. On striking the Big Blue, the mountain road bears a north-northwest course to the head of that stream, and from thence over an interval of high- lands to the Platte river. The distance travelled up the Blue requires some eight days, for heavy waggons. Continuing our way, about noon we passed several Indian trails, in addition to one ten or twelve or fifteen miles back. These consist of a number of well-beaten, parrallcl foot-paths, bearing a northwest and southwest direction. They are formed by the passing and repassing of the Otoes, lowas, and Foxes, to and from their hunting grounds, towards the head- waters of the Kansas. On the 3d of October we reached the antelope range, and saw four or five of these animals scouring tlie boundless expanse, or ascending some fa\ urable eminence to g-aze upon us. Slight signs of buffalo also appeared, and everything seemed to indicate the approach to a game country. Parting a short distance froni the trail, a large sage rabbit bounded up before me. — the first of his species I ever saw. This animal is nearly three times the siz? of tlie common rabbit, and of a white color, slightly tinged with grey. It derives is name from being found principally in coun- tries aboun iing with absinthe or wild sage. In the regions adjacent to the mountains, these animals occur more frequently, — and even among the mountains, where their tails and ears are tipped with jetty black. Their fur is soft and fine, — equalling if not surpassing that of the Russia rabbit. Their flesh is also of a superior flavor, as I have had opportunities of testing. Towards night, three antelope appearing near the trail, our hunter made • By a recant treaty with the Kansas Lidian3. our government has b«com« f^ nawlv thsi v/hole of this beautiful s«ction. 56 ANTELOPE OF THE PRAIRIE. an unsuccessful attempt to approach them, which afforded me a first ink- ling of the nature and character of these animals. The antelope of the grand prairie ditiers but little in size and shape from the common sheep, and is coated \vdtii long, brittle hair, — of a ruddy brown color, except at the tail and head, where it is short and white. The female is hornless, except an occasional blunt corneous excrescence, some two or three inches longf protruding from tlie liead. The male, however is equipped with hook-shaped antlers, ebony colored, and six or eight inches in length, which he sheds annually in the months of November and De- cember. Tliis is the fleetest inhabitant of the prairie. No horse can compete with it in speed. Quick of sight, keen of scent, and acute of ear, it seems ever on the alert at the approach of real or supposed danger, — now swiftly advancing towards the object of its aJarm or curiosity,— then circling before you with the fleetness of tlie storm- wind, to mount some eminence far away beyond reach, and gaze in security. Tlien, again, ere you have time to catch breath for admiration, it repeats its semi-gyration from an opposite direction, stili nearer and swifter, till past, — as if indeed borne on tlie v/ings of lightning — and yet again surveys you in the distance. Now, running from point, to point it examines you upon all sides, as it cautiously passes round, — then, snuffing the breeze, it again calls to aid its fleetness of limb, and v/ith the velocity of thought is. lost to view in the vast ex- panse. Possessed of an inordinate share of inquisitiveness, it not unfrequently falls a victim to its own curiosit}'. The hunter, turbaned with a red hand- kerchief and half concealed behind some object, first raising, then depress- ing his head, then vvithdrav/iDg it entirely from view, then again disclosing it to the curious animal, is almost certain to allure his game within gun- shot. I have seen numbers killed in this manner. In the spring season they appear more sensitive than at nny other time, and are easily lured to their fate. With the exhibition of this strange propensity, I have time and again been minded of its more iuliy developed moral prototype in man. How frequently do we see persons around us who indulge their appetites and passions, as often for mere curioi=ity as fancied pleasure, — venturing near- er and still nearer towards the objects that connnand their attention and lure them into t)ie vortex of ruin, till, with sure and deadly aim, the shafts ^f the tempter pierce the waning vitals of morality, ond plunge the vic- tims headlong into a yawning abyss, where they are lost to themselves, to society, and to the world — lost forever! Here, then, is furnished for us a moral: — Beware how you mdulge a vain curiosity that lures to evil ; — never parley with temptation. These animals arc found from the Big Blue to tiie mountains — m Oregon, Cahfornia, ?Santa Fe, and N. W. Texas. Their flesh is tender and sweet, — quite equal to venison, though seldom fat, owing, as is sup-- posed, to their almost inccsoant mobility. Near our night-camp I noticGd fresh beaver " cuttings " some of which consisted of trees, six inches in diameter, levelled by ^ese sagacious ani- PAWNEE BRAVERY. 61 The vicinity disclosed frequent boulders of red and dark ferruginooB sandstone, with a soil somewhat arenose, reclining upon a changeable deposite of sand and giuvel, succeeded by a substratum of parti-colored and friable sandstone. The valley of the Blue is bordered by hills of graceful slope, both green and beautiful. I here remarked for the first time the appearance of cadi, which here- from becomes quite common, and proves tlie pest of many places adjacent to the mountains. The Blue is a deep, narrow stream, witli a swift current, over a bed of gravel and pebbles, and is fringed by groves of oak, cotton- wood, and wil- DW. Its valley is between one and two miles in width, with a supertice of variable fertility, but generally consisting of good arable land. This section of country is considered very dangerous in the summer and fall months, on account of the sti'olling bands of Pawnees which infest it The voyageur holds the latter in great dread, unless he chances to be accompanied by a sufficient force to^ bid defiance to their approach. A party, numerically weak and indifterenily armed, meets with rough treat- ment at their hands while on the open prairies. Persons and property are rarely respected, and the unfortunate traveller is not only plundered, but often whipt or murdered without mercy. This, however, may not be said of all — it is only the young wan-iors, when beyond the restraint of their chiefs and seniors, who perpetrate such outrages ; though, to tiieir praise be it said, instances of this kind are quite seldom, at present, compared with former years. The courage of these Indians is held in little repute by mountaineers; and, that this opinion is not unfounded, the following incident will prove. It was related to me by an actor in the scene : A small party of whites on their cruise down the Platte with a cargo of furs, " lay by " to make meat, near the forks of tliat stream. Buffalo be- ing at some distance from camp, our adventurers were compelled to perform the duties of pack-horses in conveying the proceeds of their hunting ex- cursions. One day, four of them left for this object, and having proceeded some six or eight miles, a war-party of Pawnees suddenly emerged from beliind an eminence, directly fronting them. Alarmed at the unwelcome apparition, and imagining the whole country to be alive with Indians, ikey immediately ran, and were pursued towards camp. One of the number, a big, lazy fellow, and rather " green " withal, soon became tired, and sung out to his companions : " Don't let's run so fast. Blast me, if I can keep up !" "Come on, — come on !" cried they. " A thousand * sh ved heads' are upon us, half fi-ozen for hair !" "Pooh ! I'll bet five dollars there aint thirty !" " Done ! But, who'll count the bloody varmints ?" "Why, I'll do it, just for my own satisfaction." So saying, he wfieeled and advanced towards the Pawnees, as his wondering companions halted a little distance off, to learn the result of his fool-daring. Surprised at tliis strange movement, the enemy also came to a stand, aflbrding a fine opportunity to ascertam their number, which only tmonntsd tonivetem! 58 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. "I've won !" exclaimed our nero. *' Let's charge, and give 'em the very devil!" The vvord'ivent for command, and tlie HyLir hunters dashed boldly towards the terrified savages, who in turn jleJ., v/ith greater velocity than they hac called into exefcise at any time during their advance, — illusirating the ti'uth of tjie saying, " tyrants are always cowaids." Legs proved quite convenient articles for the Pawnee braves ! Tliey were out of sight in a few minute.^, and were very careful not to stop until they had left their pursuers far in the rear. A Pawnee witli a defenceless enemy in his power, like some examples among the white.?, is unrivalled in courage and daring; but where there is resistance offered, and figliting to be done, he, as well as the Irishman's chickens, "comes up missing!" He is always bravest when farthest from danger. We were careful to observe the strictest vigilance at nigiit, to prevent the loss of horses from lurking bands of Indians. The animals of tiie caravan were uniformly picketed in compa.t order, and sentinels, posted at suitable distances, continued to pace their rounds, from dirk till daylight; ^ vvhile each of the company slept by hi;^ arms, in readiness at any moment to repel an attack. Having travelled for seven successive days, we made camp late in the afternoon at the head of the right fork of Blue. During the day we had noticed a dense smoke some distance in the rear, but, with the wind in an opposite direction, no uneasiness was leit on that account. The sentries were soon at their posts, and everything was bnugly disposed of for the night. Those not on duty improved the oppor- tunity to gain respite from.the fatigues of the day, and, hi a brief interval, were snoring away at an admirable rate. The polar-star by its " pointers " iiad just told the liour of midnight, when these hurried words rang tlirough tlie camp : " Lave, ho ! Lave !* Prairies on fiie I Quick — catch up ! catch up!" This tftartlii'ig announcement instantly brought every man to his feet; — and such a scene as now met the eye ! How awful, and hov/ grand ! The wind, new diangcd and fresheiied, to the right and rear, was tossing t';o flames towards us, rapidly — lighting the heavens with their lurid glare, and transforming the darkness of night into a more than noon -day splen- dor ! Here was, indeed, an "ocean ofJlameT far as the eye could reach— dancin;2; with liery wavelets in the wnid, or i-oiling its burning ourgus, in mad fury, eager to lick up every vestige of vegetation or semblaiice of combustible that appeared in its way ! — now shooting its glowing missiles far, far ahead, like meteors athwart tho sky, or towering aloft from the weeds and ^all grass, describing most iiiJeous and fantastic form?; that, moving witli the v/ina, more rL.,cmble(! a cotillion of demons among thiif native flames tiian aught terrestial ! — then driving whole sheets of the raging element into the withered lierbage in front, like the advance scouts ♦ " Lave " appears to be a corruption of the Spanish word levar, to get up, gi wrouM, a« firom sleep. It is in common use among raoiintaineer3. FLATTE RIVER AND ITS VICHflTT. fiS of an invading anny, swept onward its desolating course, leaving in itar track naught save a blackened waste of smoking ruins ! Altogether, it was a sublime spectacle, a stupendous scene, grand and imposing beyond description, and temble in its beauty ! Commingled with sensations of wonder and admiration, it tended to impress the beholder with feelings of painful melancholy. The broad expanse, but a few moment* since arrayed in all the mourning grandeur of fading autumn, was now a naked desert, and every vestige of loveliness in an instant snatched ftom view! How sudden, how a\iful, how marked the change ! and yet. how mag- nificent in its career, though doleful its sequel ! We were speedily under way, witli as much earnestness of advance as that of righteous Lot, in his escape from burning Sodom.* For a while the pursumg enemy kept even pace, and threatened to overtake us, till, headed by Sie strong wind, which meanwhile had changed its course, it began to slacken its speed and abate its greediness. About sunrise we crossed the regular Pawnee trails, (leading to and from their hunting grounds, v/hich bore the appearance of being much fre- quented,) and at 10 o'clock, A. M., reached the Platte river, having trav- - elled a distance of thirty miles witliout, halting. The mountain road strikes the above stream at lat. 40° 41' 06" north, long. 99° 17' 47" west from Greenwich, some twenty miles below die head of Grand Island. This island is densely wooded and broad, and extends for fifty or sixty miles in length. The river banks are very sparsely tim- bered, a deficiency we had occasion to remark during the remainder of our journey. The valley of the Platte at this place is six or seven miles wide, and the river itself between one and two miles from bank to bank. Its waters are very shallow, and are scattered over their broad bed in almost innumerar ble channels, nearly obscured by the naked sand-bars that bechequer its entire course through the grand prairie. Its peculiarity in this respect gave birth to the name of Platle^ (shallow,) which it received from the French, and Charlre, (surface,) from the Mexicans, — the Indians, accord- ing to Washington Irving, calling it Nebraska,^ a term synonymous with that of the French and Americans, — however, I am ignorant in reference to the latter. • The great peril of our situation, and the pressing necessity of a hurried flight, may be readily inferred from the fact, that one waggon was freighted with a large Quantity of gunpowder. None of us were quite so brave or present-minded as several Mexicans, in the employ of Messrs. Sent & St. Vrain, on an occasion some- what similar. While .iourneying across the grand prairies, the powder-waggon acci- dentally caught fire, wlxich was noticed immediately by the Mexican attendants, who hurriedly clasped it upon all sides, to prevent the velucle from being blo^vn to pieces, while one of them proceeded deliberately to extinguish the flames ! Neither could we stand comparison with a Heiitenant of the Mexican array, at Santa Fe, who, on opening a keg of powder, made use of a red-hot iron in Ueu of an auger, for that purpose. It is needless to say, a tremendous explosion followed. Several of the by- standers were killed, but the lieutenant miraculously escaped. He soon after receiv- ed a Captain's commission from the Commander-in-chief, in consideration of hda mdomitable courage ! t The Sioux have bestowed the appellation of Duck nver upon the North Fork o^ Pktte. aO THEORY JRELATIVE TO THE PRAIRIES. The bottom upon the south bank is between three and four miles braid, and of a Ught, deep, and rich soil, occasionally sandy, but covered with thick and lusty vegetation. Back from the valley, ranges of broken sand-hills mark the transition to the high arid prairies in the rear, where vegetation becomes more dwarfish and stinted in its growth, and is intermingled with sequent cacii. These immense plains are generally clad with a short, curly grass, (tne buflalo grass,) very fine and nutritious, and well adapted to the sustenance of the countless herds of buffiilo and other wild animals that feed upon it. Their soil is generally of a thin vegetable mould, upon a substratum of indurated sand and gravel. In many places it is quite sterile, producing little other than sand-burrs and a specimen of thin, coarse grass, that sadfy fail to conceal its forbidding surface ; in others, it is but little better than a desert waste of sand-hills, or white sun-baked clay, so hard and impervious that neither herb nor grass can take root to grow upon it ; and in others, it presents a light supcrfice, both rich and productive, beclad with all that can beautify and afiorn a wilderness of verdure. The springs and streams of water are ** few and far between," — an evil, however, slightly atoned for by the occasional pools formed in favoring de- pressions during the rainy season, which are retained in their places by the extreme hardness of the soil. Were it not for these it would be almost impossible, in many directions, to travel the vast prairies lying between he Arkansas and Missouri, from long. 22® 30' west from- Washington to Jie Rocky Mountains. That this section of country should ever become inhabited by civilized man, to any extent, except in the vicinity of large water-courses, is an idea too preposterous to be entertained for a single moment. As the reader is now inducted to the grand prairie as it is, it may not be amiss to say something relative to this phenomenon, tefore dismissing the subject in hand. The steppes of Asia, the pampas of South America, and the prairies of the great West, so far as my information extends, are possessed of one general and uniform character. There is something deeply mysterious associated with them, that puzzles the philosopher and cosmogonist to ex- plain. Why is it neither timber nor shrubs, as a general thing, are found within their confines ? Why have not the same causes operated here which produced the stately forests of other regions ? The above questions are often asked, and as often answered ; but nevei satisfactorily. Some respond by a reference to their frequent burnings, — others to s(Mne chemical detect in their soil, — others, to the disgeniality of theii climate,— others, to tlieir infecund aridity, — and yet, others, to tlie sup» position that some operation of nature or art has effected the destruction of quondam forests, and reduced them to their present condition. Each of these answers, though, doubtless, partially true in many re* •pects, fails to solve the problem before us. Here we have, in many places, almost measureless extents of fertil* soil, moist and abundantly watered, by rams, springs, and ever-flowing streams, with all the desiderata for the producing of trees, — and what SOMETHiNG TO LAUGH AT. 61 withhold* them ? Other aectiona of country, under less favorable circum- itances, are not wanting in this respect. Why is it ? Timber of every kind adapted to the zone and climate will grow as thriftily when planted here, as elsewhere. The frontier forests of our Western States have been observed for years past to make slow but constant encroachment upon contiguous prairies, from ail sides, where, ai yet, they have a foothold ; — and wliy ? Partly, because their enlargement is not circumvented by those annual burnings that formerly devoured every tender shoot daring to raise its head above ground ; and, partly, through the operation of other causes, sure and gradual in their effect, which have planted the groves of other lands and taught their branches to wave in the Dreeze. Doubtless the same causes would produce the same results, all over these vast regions, as elsewhere. But, why have they not ? — why are tlie prairies timberless ? Simply, because a sufSciency of time has not yet elapsed for the operation of these causes, — timber has hitherto had no possible chance for generation. The phenomenon, if rightly viewed, will thus explain itself. Geology points to the time when these vast solitudes were the bed of old Ocean and the liome of waves, — but, gradually emerging or suddenly elevated from the watery al")yss, they now present some of the more recent formations of dry land. Herbage and grass, being more easily propagated than trees, — sown as are their seeds by the birds and scattered by the winds of heaven, — in a brief interval, beswathed the new-born earth with smiling green. Thn.-? clothed with verdancy, they soon became the favorite pastures of tlie countless herds that thronged them. With game, appeared the red m.n to hunt it, and with him the yearly conflagrations that now repel the in- truding woodlands and confirm the unbroken sway of solitude amid her far extending domains. Here, then, we have spread before us the prairies as we find them,— tlie problem of their existence needs no further solution. Oct. 12th. Still continuing up the Platte by its south bank, wo made camp at night near the head of Grand Island. During our progress we saw large quantities of \vild geese and cranes in the river bottoms, that presented tempting marks for our voyageurs. One of the latter, — a tall, raw-boned, half-crazed, and self-confident Missouri " Ned," — good naturt^d and inane, — sporting the familiar soubriquet of " Big Jim," — wishing lo prove the truth of the Dogberry axiom, that " some things may be done as well others," started to approach a large flock of sand-hill cranes, parading ' half obscured in a plat of grass near the road side. The wary birds, however, caught glimpse of the approaching Nimrod and flew. Still our hero advanced, crawling upon all-fours, to witliin sixt^ or seventy yards of their recent position, when, raising up, he espyed an object which his excited imagination portrayed a crane, and promptly yielded to it the contents of his rifle. Of course the obstinate creature remained in statu quo. Re-loadmg with all possible speed, he again fired ! But the second shflC proved futile as the first. Detennined the next should count whether or no, he advanced still nearer, and had raised for his third discharj , before the naked truth ban* 6 '. 62 BIG JIM AND THE ANTELOPE. upon his astonished vision,— he had been shooting at a bunch of dead grass Shouldering his rifle ho now rejoined the caravan, and was received by th* A^ags who had witnessed his exploit, as follows : "Ho, Jim ! I say, Jim ! Did you kill it ?" " Hang me, but it stood fire well,--didn't it ?" " Reckon you wanted a bigger charge." •' Strange you couldn't knock it cold at that distance !" " May be your gun's out of order ?" " Yes. I'll bet a stewed crane of it. Have you noticed the "s^^** ately ?" " Why, Jim. Really you've had bad luck ! What, within sixty yards ijid not kill 1 I can beat that, all day !" " Ha, ha, Jim ! Shoot him grass !" This rally was received, by our hero, in good part, who joined in the sport with as much gusto as though some one else were the victim. The day, however, was not permitted to pass without "another display of Liie prowess of " Big Jim." A doe antelope, attracted by the strange appearance of the moving cara- van, and impelled by its innate curiosity, had ventr.red to a tempting prox- imity. Mounted upon a fleet horse and supposing lie coiild easily ride 'iown the antelope, our hero started in pursuit. Intently surveying the passing scene, the agile animal permitted him to -jdvance within a few yards of her before she took the alarm. Now was a novel race. Away v/ent antelope and away went Jim, in full chase. The former was soon far ahead, and stopped to ga?:e upon her pursuer. Supposing she had become tired and v/as about to yield, our hero came il-dshing on, impetuously, under whip and spur, fully intent upon her cap- ture. But, again, away went antelope, and away went Jim, whose steed, »imbitious as its rider, and proud in its own fieetness, strained every nerve for the crisis. Even the antelope seemed to have found a chsmpion to contest her unrivalled and universally acknowledged superiority. With iiistended mouth and protruding tongue, panting in the excitement of fear and foaming in the vehemency of effort, she gained but slowly upon th( bounding charger, as both swept over the prairie almost with speed of the atorm-wind ! Now, again, she stops to gaze upon her pursuer. By this time all be- gan to feel an interest in the result of the strange race. The word re* mounded : '* Go it, Jim ! you'll beat the beater, yet !" Once more, the antelope shoots from before both horse and rider, like the swift-winged arrow twanged from a giant's bow ! A broad ravine intercepting her course was cleared at a bound, and left the flying animal far upon the other side. At a bound the steed also cleared the barrier, but, in striking upon the opposite bank, it plunged headlong upon the yielding ground, tossing its rider far away in advance all safely sprawhng in a sand heap. The luckless wight, on recovering, found his noble least so sprained by the fall it could scarcely stand, and its every nerve vibrating with frightful tremors. Of course here was the Jhmle of the race, as both now re- *qrned to the caravan, — the recent rider, on foot, leading his jaded steed, — BIG JIM'S THIRD ATTEMPT AS HUNTER. the ridden slowly liiiipiiig beliindj-^presenting a marked contrast between the opening and t.osinjjf scene. The ill-fated horse was too tnucii disabieJ lor furilier bei-vice during tlie journey. As Dur hero joined tiie company, tiie joke-iovnig wags again broke oose: " Well, Jim. 1 say, — ahem ! did you "* BIG JM'S FOURTH ADVENTURE. 73 fiflion. It is so extremely acutCj that even tiie fresh footsteps of a man, croBsinff their path, are to them a sure cause of alarm and flight. Of all tfie diversities of game indigenous to the mountains and prairies of the great West, witli the exception, perhaps, of the grizzly bear, no animal is more tenacious of life than the buffalo. To shoot it in the head, is an inane effort. No rifle can pi oject a ball with sufficient force to per- forate the thick hair and hide to its brain, through tho double scull-bone that protects it. A paunch shot is equally vain. The only sure points for the marksman are, the heart, lights, kidneys, or vertebrae ; and even then the unyielding victim not unfrequently escapes. Buffalo, wounded in the skirts of the lights, have been known to live for several days afterwards. 1 have witnessed their escape, even after the re- ception of fifteen bullet-wonnds, and most of them at «uch points as would have proved fatal to almost any other animal. In the summer of '43, 1 myself killed one of them, that had been shot through the pussy surface at the buU of tkr lieart, apparently four or five days previous, which doubtless would have recovered had it remained un- molested. A gun, suitable for killing this kind of game, should never carry to ex- ceed forty balls to the pound— a lesser bore would be almost entirely use- less. The distance generally required for a shot, tlie smaliness of the ball, its liability to variation from the wind, with its failure to " hold up " and retain its force, contribute to render the use of such a piece little else than idle waste of ammunition. Oct, llth. The sun arose bright and clear, and with its first appearance the caravan was in motion Proceeding up the South Fork some ten miles we halted for breakfast, and made arrangements for fording the stream. Near us lay the carcase of one of the cows wounded on the previous evening, and as yet scarcely dead. She had travelled thus far after being shot in the hghts. Our crossing was efiected with little difficulty, but occupied till late in the afternoon. The river was full a mil 3 wide and very shallow, with a Boft sandy bed, requiring the strength ol all the united teams to each wag- gon. The day proved cold, and the water was like an application of ice to the naked skin. Our teamsters, who were compelled to cross and recross, some dozen times, felt in not the best humor, and were better pleased than any one else at the termination of their unpleasant task. Having safely gained the opposite bank, we travelled up the river five or six miles, and halted for the night. During our course tlie bottoms upon either side presented one dense, interminable band of buflaio, far as the eye could reach. The whole prairie pictured a living mass, moved by im})u!sive dread, as the breeze heralded our approach, and the countless multitude made way before and on either band. Ever and anon, an old bull would linger, as if to intimidate, and not un- frequently venture within gun-shot. One fellow, in particular, passed side- long, tor a mile or more, stopping at intervals to gaze upon us, shaking his shaf gy head in defiance, as much as to say, " you dare not come near !' Big Jim saw this, and hia pride was wounded. The bull, in his opinion 7 74 RARE POLTTfiNESS. had challenged the whole party, and there wse no one stout-hearted enoagb to accept it. Here was a chance for a full display of his bravery and skill. Ever Bince we had reached the buffalo range, his p*oud spirit had yearned to be- come the death of some one of these terrible r.ionsters, that he might relate the deed of perilous exploit to wondering posterity, and incite the rising generation to emulate his noble achievement. But, alas, for the fadeless laurels he might otherwise imve won, in an evil hour bis rifle had been sacrificed for- the extermination of a huge, venomous serpent. He did the deed at one fell blow ; — brave, but unfortu ,nate ! Yet he had one consolation amid his troubles, — no victory is ever gained witiiout some loss to the conquerors. Still, he needed his gun, for without it how was he to avenge the foul 'u- sult the tav'ge beast of the prairie was even now hurling in the very face of the shriniving- cowd ? Something must be done. With ti>8:-.e cogitations, an idea struck him, — he could borrow a rifle ; 80, advancing to a comrade, he exclaimed : "Do lend me your rifle one minute !" " Yes, Jim," was the ready reply. " But see you don't break it over the first paltry little snake you come across !" " That's a lie. 'Twas a big rattle-snake I broke mine over. 'Twasn't a l^iiry little snake !" Thus, vindicating his assaulted reputation, he took the gun and hastened to prostrate the impudent barbarian inviting attack. Jim looked at the bull, and the bull looked at Jim, — shaking his head, and throwing the loose sand from beneath him high' into the air with his feet, and goring the ground vv^ith his horns of burnished ebony. If the creature had looked terrible before, he now looked fourfold more so, in Jim's estima^* tion. Thinkini: caution the parent of safety, our hero was unwilling to venture further, and so, prostrating himsell' at iuU length behind a clustre of abainthe, (page,) he planted his battery, ha\ing his high-crowned hat for a rest, and blazed away at the bull's head. The hardened wretch stood the shot without flinching. Looking for a moment at the spot from whence the strange salute had proceeded, and again sliakino- iiis head and snorting with scorn, he wheeled and slowly trotted Dfl^. Eager to get a secona trial to finish the work so nobly begun, our hero commenced puj-suit. Seeing him advancing, the bull thought it time to show his heels, and in a few minutes was lost in the distance. The courageous Nimrod now, for the first time, bethought him of hia hat, which, in the ardo:- of his bold charge, he had left at tiie spot chosen as his stand to hurj death and destruction to the naughty bull. He hastened to regain it— but no hat could be found ; — the winds had borne it far away over the prairie, to be worne out in search of a wearer, and the unlucky bravo, hatiess, rejoined the caravan. Here the truth at once flashed upon the minds of the waggish dique, that had hitherto proved his sore annoyance, and they began anew : " Now that beats me, clear out I How came you to give the bull yew hat and leave yourself bare-headed ? That's another wrinkle V' SCENERY AT Arill CREEK. 75 « It's no such thing," said Jim. " The wind took it away ;— and h\ none of your business neither. I paid for it .'" "True. But what did the wind want with your hat? Sure, if i' needed a foot-ball, to toss over the prairies, it would have taken your head, the lightest of the tvi: '.'' " You're a fool !" retorted Jim indignantly. "There, now. That's the time you cotcht it, my boy. Why, fellow, Mr. Jeems took ofi' his hat, out of pure politeness, — to win the good opinion of tlie bull. He were right. Dicu't you see how the gentleman-cow boiced and scraped in turn. Why, he tkroto'd the dirt dean over his back, not to be outdone in good breeding! Ab, but ^lie pesky wind ! Wl^i^^ Mr. Jeems were showing his brotten up, w^hat had it to do, but to snatch 'lis hat and run off ivith it ! Mr. Jeems are no fool ! and the feller what says he am, — (1 want you all to understand me ; Mr. Jeems have been most shamefully abused and misused, and I can whip the chaps w];at'? done it — provided they'll let me ; — I say, then, I want you all to understand me !) Mr. Jeems are no fool, and the man what says he am — is, — (I can't think of words bad enough,)— is— is, as near the mark as though he'd drove centred' " Aye. Jim's right. You are all a pack of dough-heads to make fun of him in the way you do. Suppose you'd be struck comical ! Then what'd ye think of yourselves !" " Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, and go bare-headed ! Wat him mean ?" " I say, Jkn. When 're going a hunting ag-ain ? — 'case I want to go 'long too !" CHAPTER VI. Ash Creek. — Pawnee and Sioux battle-^ound. — Bread-root, — ^The Eagle's Nest- Mad wolf, — Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. — Mad bull. — Making and curing meat. — Big Jim still unfortunate. — Johnson's creek. — McFar- lan's Castle, — Deceptiveness of distances. — Express from the Fort, — Brave Bear. — Bull Tail.— TiUt viith the Indians.— Speech of Marto-cogershne.— Reply,— Tah- tungah-sana's address. ^Oct I8th. Bearing to the right, over a high undulating prairie, W6 struck the North Fork of the Platte, after a drive of about twelve miles, and continuing up its left bank a short distance, camped for the tl ght at the mouth of Ash Creek. The stream at this place is a broad bed of sand, entirely dry, except in the spring months. Higher up, however, it affords a generous supply of pure running v/ater, sustained by the numerous feeders that force meir way into it from the high grounds dividing the two rivers. The valley is of variable width, and well timbered with beautiful ajsh groves, from which the creek derives its name. Here are also found seve- td varieties of wild fruit indigenous to the mountains. As a wbvle i* 7« BREAD-ROOT.- I'lIE EA(iLE'S NEST presents to the eye a pretty flower-garden, walled in by huge pilei a*" argillaceous rock, and watered by murmuring streamlets whose banks are ornamented with shade trees and shubbery. Near camp had been the scene of a fierce and bloody battle between the Pawnees and Sioux, in the winter of 1836. The affray commenced early m the morning, and continued till near night. A trader, who was present with the Sioux, on the occasion, describes it as having been remarkably close. Every inch of ground was disputed — now the Pawnees advancing upon the retreating Sioux ; and now the Sioux, while the Pawnees gave way ; but, returning to the charge with redoubled fury, the former once more recoiled. The arrows flew in full showers, — the bullets whistled the death-song of many a warrior, — the yells of combating savages filled tlie air, and drowned the lesser din of arms. At length arrows and balls were exhausted upon both sides, — but sull the battle raged fiercer than before. War-club, tomahawk and butcher-knife were bandied with terrific force, as the hostile parties engaged hand to hand, and the clash of resounding blows, commingling with the clamor of unearthly voices which rent the very heavens, seemed more to prefigure the contest of fiends than aught else. Finally the Pawnees abandoned the field to their victorious enemies, leaving sixty of their warriors upon the ensanguined battle-ground. But the Sioux had paid dearly for their advantage ; — forty-five of their bravest men lay mingled with the slain. The defeated party were pursued only a short distance, and then permitted to return witliout further molestation to their village, at the Forks of the Platte. This disaster so completely disheartened the Pawness, they immediately abandoned their station and moved down the river some four hundred miles, — nor have they again ventured so high up, unless in strong war- parties. About the same time the village on Republican fork of Kansas was also abandoned, and its inhabitants united with the Loups. The evidences of this cruel death-har\'est were yet scattered over the prairie, whose bones an3 sculls looked sad, indeed. One of the latter was noticed, near camp, with a huge wasp's nest occupying the vacuum once filled by the subtle organs of intellect. Strange tenant, truly, of a human scull, — but, perhaps, not an unfit antitype of the fierce passions that whilom claimed it as their dwelling place. A specimen of the bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) was procured from the creek-bank by one of the voyageurs. This is very common in the vicinity of the mountains, and attains a size from twenty to thirty inches in circum- ference. It is taprooted, and generally prefers the rich sandy soil of bot- toms and ravines,— not unfrequently penetrating to the depth of five or six feet. In shape, it is much like the common beet. Its exterior is covered with a thick ligument of tough fibres, curiously interwoven, enveloping a white pulpy substance, which is very sweet and pleasantly tasted. The day following we proceeded some twenty miles, and camped at a place called the Eagle's Neat. The War Eagle. — Page 79, WOLV£S,."THEIR SAGACITY. T9 A few scattering trees at the right of the bottom, here mark the transi- tion to the high prairie. One of these was the war-eagle's eyry, upon which she rears her annual brood, and teaches it to soar far away, or levy tribute from the surrounding wilderness. The proud buxi of Jove was yet sailing aloft, in silent majesty, almost lost to vision in the long space of intervening blue that told the grandeur of her flight ; and, tinged with the purple and gold of the setting sim, she seemed looking down with a jealous eye upon the unwonted invaders of he earthly home. A few light clouds, garnished with day's departing glor^ danced athwart the western sky, as the full moon arose, hastening to re enter her nightly pathway, and course amid the array of glittering worlds and smile upon the wide realms of SoUtude ; — while countless herds Or: grazing bumlo covered the prairies on either side of the broad and silent river ; and naught met the listening ear, save the dolesome hooting of the midnight owl, as she resumed her nocturnal ditty, to enhance me deep melancholy of loneliness ; or the shrill whistlings of the prairie-winds, as they sported in mirtli and chanted their requiems to the dying year ; or the terrific bellowings of the hoarse-toned bison, the softening cadence of whose voices soimded trebly mournful as it swept far along and became lost in the distance ; or yet, the dismal howhngs of the half-starved wolves, that gathered by scores upon every hill-top and renewed, in more piteous accents, their ceaseless concert ; — all these united to invest the scene, so magnifi- cent in itself, with a savage wildness, at once incitive of terror and admi- ration. In our progress during the day I remarked, at frequent intervals, bare places coated with saline efflorescences, and occasional plats of fine bluish grass, (herba salee,) — appearances quite common from this onward. Our night slumbers were disturbed by the quick discharge of firearms, which instantly brought every man to his feet, rifle in hand. The cause of this alarm was the appearance of a mad wolf among the caravan ani- mals, and several shots were fired before the guard could despatch him. He proved one of the largest of his species, and looked fearful as his blood-red eyeballs and foaming mouth were exposed by the camp-fire. In the morning it was ascertained he had bitten nine head of horses and cattle. The buflalo range aflbrds every variety of wolves, common to the moun- tains and regions still further west Of these tliere are five distinct classi- fications, viz : The big white, or buffalo wolf ; the shaggy brown ; the black ; the gray, or prairie wolf ; and the cayeute, (wa-chunika-monet,) or medicine-wolf of the Indians. The white and brown wolves are the most cumerous, and follow the buffalo in bands of hundreds, subsisting upon the carcases of such as (tie of themselves or are slaughtered as their necessities demand. These wolves behave with great sagacity in their predatory operations^ and appear to exercise a perfect understanding and concert of action with each other on such occasions. First, stationing themselves by files ak given distances along the course their intended victim is expected to run, ^0 or more of them enter the herd of unconscious bufi^o, and^ wTig ling 80 A MAD BULL. out the fattest one, drive it to the track at which their companioiis awav to tate part in the grand race. This done, the victim is made to run the gauntlet between two rows of wolves. As it advances, others join their fresh numbers to the chase, till at length, tired down and exhausted in strength, the ill-fated animal falls ready prey to their greediness. The poor creature is first hamstrung to prevent its escape, and then literally aevoured alive ! The black wolf is seldom met with in these parts. It nearly equals the white and brown in size, and is fully as large as the common cur-dog. The prairie wolf is not more than half the size of the above mentioned, and much less ferocious. Its color is of a dark gray, and its fur quite soft and fine. The cayeute or medicine-wolf compares with the common feist, and is of a grayish color, much like that of the wild rabbit of the States. Its fur is fine and thick, and might be turned to good account for the manu- facture of caps, muffs, &c. The Indians cherish many superstitious notions in regard to this ani- mal, and hold it in great veneration. They consider it as the messenger employed by the Great Spirit, on special occasions, to herald the approach of events interesting to the welfare of his red children, and for that reason they are never known to harm or molest it. Just at dayhght, a large band of buffalo crossed the river nearly oppo- site to camp. It was headed by an old bull, that led the way, ^runting and bellowing as he advanced, as if in mock personation of the b'ugieman ot a corps of cavalry. Some three or four hundred cows and calves fol- lowed, side by side, with marked and regular tread, like platoons of infantry marching in set step to music, presenting a truly comical exhibition. A voyaseur seized his rifle and saluted with its contents the music- master and captain-general of the advancing army, as he was about to ascend the river bank. In an instant the whole detachment to " right about face," and retreat precipitately to the rearward shore, with no other music than the clatter of hoofs and the splashing of water, or order than the confused rivaby for speedy escape from the unexpected presence oi Jr. OcL ^Oth. Resuming our course, during the forenoon, the strange de- portment of a buffalo bull near the trail arrested attention. He was running in a circle, at the height of his speed, and narrowing its sphere at each gyration. Several of us rode out to him, — but he slUl, continued, (with frothing mouth and protruding tongue, swollen to the -almost distention of his jaws, roUing eye-balls, Uke globes of clotted gore; and bellowing for pain,) following the fast-decreasing Uraits of his strange course, regardless of our presence. He soon commenced whirling round and round, with faltering, hall stumbling steps, and finally fell prostrate before us, apparently in the last paroxysm of mortal agony. In vain he struggled to rise, while his tongue bled from between his jaws, chafed in fruitless effort to close them, and hia head, keeping time witii the convulsive throes of his fast-waning strength; tore up tiie prairit-iod and lashed the ground io the mad fury of effort. BIG JIM STILL UNFORTUNATE. 81 The spectacle was one of the most striking exhibitions of excruciating pain I ever witnessed. Even tlie rough mountaineers were excited te pity, and gladly alleviated his miseries by hastening his end. A friendly DuUet put a period to his sufferings, and placed him far beyond the reach of summer's heat and winter's cold, mad wolves and all the inexpressible horrors of hydrophobia. At our noon encampment we commenced the process of " making meat," preparatory to passing a long distance devoid of game ; and, as the reader may be anxious to know what kind of an operation this is, I will explain. It consists simply in cutting into tliin slices the lx)neless parts of buffalo, or other meat, and drying tliem in the wind or sun. Meat thus cured may be preserved for years without salt. Ropes of raw hide were stretched around the waggons, upon which the results of our labor were left to the finishing effects of the wind and sun as we proceeded, — ^thus making an important saving in the item of time. It is astonishing how long a time fresh meat may be kept without injury, upon the grand prairies, in dry weather, when it receives the free access of air. Some of that killed on our first arrival among buffalo was yet hanging to the waggons, as sweet and sound as ever. I have known it to be preserved, in this way, for ten or twelve days in the heart of summer. Meat, packed in snow, while in a frozen state, may be retained fresh for months without injury. I have known an instance of its being thus kept from January till June. The air is so pure and dry, it requires but Utue effort to preserve meat, for any requisite length of time, almost at any season of the year. Our hunter, having proceeded in advance of the waggons during the afternoon, was overtaken about sundown at a place selected for night- camp, which he had ornamented with the carcases of three cows, — and there again, was soon witnessed another display of rare feasting, such as mountaineers alone know how to appreciate and enjoy. The night proved cold and uncomfortable, and the bright-glowing camp fires presented most captivating inducements to the shivering sentinels, as they paced their dreary rounds, to step within its cheering influence. Big Jim, who was on the third " relieve," thought it too bad he should be com- pelled to suffer so much from cold, while a nice warm fire was permitted to waste its kind heat upon the bleak air of night, without so much as one to enjoy its beneficence. No, it v/ould not do. " Why mayn't I just as well stand guard at the fire, as elsewhere ? I can, I'm sure. I'll stand this time, and not lay as I did before, and then there'll be no danger of falling asleep and burning one's self; nor'U they have the chance to twit me about lying guard and burning shins. I'll head 'em this time, and they wont know the differ- ence." So saying, he approached the fire, and, giving it a kick, extended his hands towards its blaze, — ever and anon rubbing them together and then again spreading them to receive its pleasing warmth ; then tuming his back to partake alike of its comforting influences and obviate the jealousy Uiat might otherwise bo engendered between front and reai. 82 JOHNSON'S CRSES. Now, he stands attent, — he hears something move. He stretches himself U) his full height, on tip-toe, and gazes in the black envelope of surround ing night, made doubly obscure in contrast with the refulgence of the camp-fire. " How dark it has grown !" said Jim. " What can it be ? Wonder if it's Indians. Pooh ! it's nothing but the wind. Bless me, I can't see the use of a poor devil's standing guard on such a dark night as this ! (step- ping backward still nearer the fire,) he can't see nothing, if he does. Feugh, — what is it smells so ? (turning round.) Good gracious, how hot my back is !" The mystery of Jim's present predicament is easily explained. The skirts of his jeans coat, having come in contact with the wind-tossed flames, caught fire, and were burned to the shoulders before he was aware of the accident. The garment was rendered entirely useless, and even his panta- loons were buint to his skin, in several places. Jim began to think it as bad to stand as to lay guard, and concluded that, of tlie two, fire was more dangerous than Indians ; — for, one thing was certain, the Indians had never yet injured him, but he could not say as much of Jire ! In the morning, as may be supposed, our hero's last mishap was the proUfic subject of comment, and the wags were promptly on the alert to amuse themselves still further at his expense : " Say, would you believe it ! — That's the way Jim 's hit upon to shine in this crowd,-^he burns up his old coat to make a light /" ." Ah, ha ! So he means to shine by the light of his old clothes, and come it over us in an underhand manner ! Jim, that '11 never do ; — I tell you, once for all." - " Wonder if he wont burn up himself next ?" " He ? No. He's too green and mppy to bum himself, and so he takes his old clothes !" " Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, lose hat, stick coat in him fire ! Poor fellow. No can do without Jim, no how." The third day succeeding the last mentioned adventure, we passed a stream, called by the traders Johnson's creek, in memory of a man by that name who was murdered in its vicinity, several years since, by the Indians. He was a missionary, and on his way to Oregon, with a party headed by one John Gray. As they were about to raise camp, one morning, a band of Yanktau-Sioux came charging over the hills, and preparations were made to resist them. Such a course Mr. Johnson felt scrupulous of acced- ing to, and stoutly protested against it, — affirming it to be wrong. As the savages approached, the ill-fated man stepped forAvard to meet them unarmed, despite the remonstrances of his comrades,— ^imagining the Indians would not kill him, as he was a missionary and had came to do them good. They, however, proved regardless of him or his intended good, and ha fell the victim of his own foolish credulity. Three Indians fell in the con flict that ensued, and he and they filled the same grave. THE BRAVE BEAR. 88 Oct. 24th About noon we crossed Gonneville's creek, a large easterly affluent of the Platte. This stream also derives its name from a trapper, killed near it in an Indian fight, some eight years since. Upon the south bank of Gonneville's creek, ten or twelve miles from the river, is a singular natural formation, known as the Court House, or McFarlan's Castle, on account of its fancied resemblance to such a struc- «ture. It rises in an abrupt quadrangular form, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and covers an area of two hundred yards in length by one hundred and fifty broad. Occupying a perfectly level site in an open prairie, it stands as the proud palace of Solitude, amid her boundless do- mains. Its position commands a view of the country for forty miles around^ and meets the eye of the traveller for several successive days, in journe) ing up the Platte. We have been in sight of it for three days, and even now seem no nearer than at first, notwithstanding our course, meanwhile, has borne not far from a direct line towards it Here, for the first time, I remarked the deceptiveness of distances, on the high prairies and in regions adjacent to tlie mountains. Sometimes an object will appear as if within a mile, at most, which cannot be reached short of fifteen or twenty miles : then, again, objects will seem to be much further off^ than they really are. I attribute this, in part, to three several causes : — First, the variable state of the atmosphere, in regard to density. Second, the absence or plenitude of humid exhalations and effluvisB in the air of diflferent regions. Third, the peculiar locality of some places in regard to the reception of the sun's rays. In passing from Gonneville's creek to Fort Platte, we encountered no more buffalo, — these animals having been driven back into the high prairies by bands of strolling Indians. If the prospect had hitherto been lonesome, it now seemed threefold lonely. The liard-beaten footpaths that had furrowed the bottoms and plains, in all directions, ever since our first entrance to the bufialo range, were still seen ; but, unhonored by the presence and unmarked by the foot- prints of their whilom travellers, they looked like the once oft-trodden streets of some deserted city. Late in the afternoon we were joined by two engages from Fort Platte, whose object it was to hasten our advance. Soon after, we entered upon a stretch of burnt prairie, and were compelled to travel till daylight tlie next morning, before a sufficiency of grass could be found for a camping place. Oct. 25tli. Resuming our course about midday, we had proceeded only a few miles, when a mounted Indian appeared upon the opposite bank of the river, and accosted us : ** Chay, cullo ! — Hanno chaum-pa-monet ha Mena-huska tour ?" (Tell me, friend ! — Are those the Long-knife'r" .vaggons ?) • Thw term seems to call for a word of explan. don. Our company was designat«4 if the Indiani a> the Long-knife, or American compan7,~e term by which «^« 84 BULL TAIL. On being answered in the affirmative, he commenced crossing to join us. Plunging into the river with his horse, he had proceeded about midway »f the stream, when the panting beast suddenly sank into the quicksand, throwing its rider head foremost into the water. At length, having effected a ford, he hurried up to us, profusely dripping with wet . as evidence of the thoroughness of his recent drenc-hing. First shaking hands with the company, he began to inquire about liquor, affirming the waggons contained that article, and adding, it was " right the Long-knife should bring the fire-water to give to the red man," as did the Bad-medicine, — but it was wrong to sell it. For his part he would not buy the fire-water. He would buy blankets, knives, beads, and ammunition, — not the fire-water ; but tlie Long-knife should give it to him. The personage thus introduced was one of the chiefs of the Brule- Sioux, and sported the name of Marto-cogershne, or Brave Bear. He was a turbulent fellow, that proved the pest of his village traders. Slim and spare-made in person, he was somewhat pale and sickly looking, and seemed about thirty years of age. His arms were a short fusee, with a bow and arrows slung to his shoulders, and a butcher-knife affixed to his belt. His hair was long, parted in front, and turned backwards ; that upon the occiput, being bound in a cluster with panther's skin, hung in a plated cue and almost trailed the ground, while a lone eagle's plume completed his head- dress. A robe enveloped his body, which, with moccasins, leggins, and breech-cloth, constituted his full costume, — a description of dress respond- ing to that almost universally common among mountain tribes. We were soon joined by others of his people, who eagerly enquired re- specting the amount of liquor brought with us. Among these were several individuals recognized by our voyageurs aa old acquaintances ; particularly one, an old chief called Bull Tail, (Tah- tunga-sana,; who was distinguished in attire from all his fellows by the addition of a hair-seal cap and a frock-coat, which he had received as pre sents from the whites. One of our party gave a favorable account of tlie old fellow, and related a story much, to his credit. The narrator, during the previous winter, while searching for stray horses among the hills, had become so bewildered he was unable to find his way back to camp. He thus wandered for four successive days, unarmed, witli out food, and with but a single robe for covering. His destiny would, doubtless, have been to perish, had not the kind hearted Tah-tunga-sana discovered him, and, pitying his forloni condition, taken him to the village, upon his own horse, some twenty miles off, going himself on foot the entire distance. Here, the lost one was treated to the best the lodge of his de- liverer afforded, and, when sufficiently recovered, he was escorted to the nearest station of the whites. I turned tor another look at the worthy chieftain, who now rode up and greeted his protege with much cordiality. Americans are known among them. The American Fur Company, employing almost •xcliuively Frenchmen, or individuals speaking the French language, receives th« appellation of Wah-ceicha, or the Bad-mei A lovely valley marks the spot That claims his lowly bed ; But o'er the wand'rer's hapless fate No friendly tear was shed. No willing grave received the coret Of this poor lonely one ; — His bones, alas, were left to bleach And moulder 'neath the sun ! The night-wolf howl'd his requiem, — The rude winds danced his dirge; And e'er anon, in mournful chime, Sigh'd forth the mellow surge! The Spring shall teach the rising grass To twine for him a tomb ; And, o'er the spot where he doth lie, Shall bid the wild flowers bloom. But, far from friends, and far from home, Ah, dismal thought, to die ! Oh, let me 'mid my Mends expire, And with my fathers lie. Oct. 27iL The day being clear and pleasant, we travelled rapidly, and in the course of the afternoon reached Horse creek. This stream is a large affluent of the Platte, heading in the Black Hills, and, tracing its way in a northeasterly direction, through a timberless country, (in many places mere barren wastes,) makes its debouchment nearly fifteen miles above Scott's Bluff. The region adjacent to its head is represented as being rich in minerals, among which is gold ; and from my limited information respecting its geo- logical character, I am inchned to accredit the rumor. The story runs thus : Six or eight years since, Du Shay, an old French hunter, wliile ranging in the parts above alluded to, on crossing one of the two principal forks that unite to form the main stream, observed a singular looking something in the creek bed, which he picked up. It was apparently a fragment of rock, very heavy, and contained numerous yellow specks. Having deposited it in his bullet-pouch for preservation, subsequently, in approaching a band of buffalo, its weight became so annoying he thought- lessly threw it away. The year following he visited Santa Fe, at which place his pouch was accidentally emptied, and, among its contents, several bright particles, that had become parted from the rock, attracted the atten. tion of the Mexicans. These were carefully gathered up, and, upon due examination, proved to be virgin gold. The old man, on his return, searched diligently for tlie spot that afford- «d Hi« treasure he had so foolishly thrown away, — but (not being intellect 9ft PKAIRIE TRAVEL. Btreams it belonged. known a3'Goche:s hok. -ietureBoue beauty, claims affinity to th« This locality, in wiltoees «ng P^^'?Xoad and of Beveral miles extent, neigborhood of Scott's Bluff Ite area i^ or ainghdlsare gen- l-iSacessible except at two »'' *X Wone. Towering in vertical w^Is the fo^& subsequent, «h|n were agam en'oul.. ^f^„rtPlatte. Sgh^f Nov;utatifcmn'sPom^,the^^^^^^ ^^^ ^„„^, „f Urra- "^^^^^^r-'^^^^t bottoms, in many places °"S Horse creek to the Larrami^e m i, tlie^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^, had &^«Se^t^n.nd.oo^^^^^^^^^^ grmation's, noticed i^^^J^^jV^atous shades and compactness, with -tri^Pff-SS^SW-anacoveredwithlu.^^ The prairies were beautifully ^^^^^/^^^^ ^^^re ornamented with afew p^gfess of changing seasons. Tb soine of my readers mayentert^n^edejgnofvis^^^^^^^^^^ i^lrnUraiiiX^rE^-rw^^^^^^^^^^^^ 'iSteable mode of ^^i^^Kronttw "camps per day Trav*« ■ A caravan of waggons ^""^ ^aXht and continue until ten ° ^l;'^^, should adopt the r«k to ^^ a^ ^^Zr^r., (if H be summer, :f spring or. t^^'^S^'^^^^^S^ :r^£lZtL. should travel ^Carkvans ought always to lay by/^,'f ^^ ^ and shoulders of their am LODaB« OF UOVWfJJH mDiAim and not think of averaging ov«r twenty-firt miles per day. They miffht travel later ; but in sucii caies, they should alwayi proportionally lengthen their noon halt. In the above manner the entire journey from Indpendence to the Pacific may be performed without injury to animals, or the expenses attendant upon a relay. Fort Platte, being next to Fort Hall, the most important point on th« route to Oregon, calls for a brief description. This post occupies the left bank of tne North Fork of Platte river, three-fourths of a mile above the mouth of Larramie, in lat. 42^ 12' 10" nortli, long. 106** 20' 13" west from Green- *vich,* and stands upon the direct waggon road to Oregon, via South It is situated in the immediate vicinity of the Oglallia and Brule divisions of the Sioux nation, and but little remote from the Chyennes and Arapaho tribes. Its structure is a fair specimen of most of the establishments em- ployed in the Indian trade. Its walls are " adobies," (sun-baked brick,) four feet thick, by twenty high — enclosing an area of two hundred and fifty feet in length, by two hundred broad. At the northwest and south- west corners are bastions which command its approaches in all directions. Within the walls are some twelve buildings in all. consisting as follows : Office, store, warehouse, meat-house, smith's shop, carpenter's shop, kitchen, and five dwellings, — so arranged as to form a yard and corel, sufficiently large for the accommodation and security of more than two hundred head of animals. The number of men usually employed about the establish- ment is some thirty, whose chief duty it is to promote the interests of the trade, and otherwise act as circumstances require. The Fort is located in a level plain, fertile and interesting, bounded upoc all sides by hills, many of which present to view the nodding forms of pines and cedars, that bescatter their surface,— while the river bottoms, a- various points, are thickly studded with proud growths of cottonwood, ash, wiUow, and box-elder, thus affording its needful supplies of timber and fuel. One mile south of it, upon the Larramie, is Fort John, a station of the American Fur Company. Between these two posts a strong opposition is maintained in regard to the business of the country, little to the credit of either. At the time of our arrival at the Fort, two villages of Indians were en- camped near by. Their lodges, being the first I ever saw, proved objects cf great interest to me. The lodge of a mountain Indian consists of a frame work of light poles, some twenty-five feet long, bound together at the small ends, and raised by planting the opposite extremities aslope, at given distances apart, so as to describe a circle, at tlie base, converging to a triangular apex, for roof and sides ; — over this is spread a covering of bufialo robes, so nicely dressed and seamed, it readily sheds rain and excludes the fierce winds to which the country is subject. A small aperture at the top, affords passage for thi • %ln. U. FrwoGHt, in 18«. CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE SIOUX NATION. t7 smoke emitted from the fire occupyng the centre ground work. The entrance is at the side, where a large piece of undressed buffiilo skin (hung from the top and so placed as to be opened or closed, at pleasure, upon the ingress or egress of the inmate) furnishes the simple substitute for a door. These lodges (some of them containing quantities of roofage to the imount of tenor fifteen buflialo skins) are large and commodious; and, even comfortable, in the severest weather ; the heat from tlie centre fire, being refracted on striking the sloping sides, communicates an agreeable warmth to every part. An Indian lodge, in the summer, is admirably adapted to the pleasure of its occupants, — by raising the lower extremeties of the envelope and securing them at a proper elevation, a free passage of air is obtained, which greatly contributes to increase the merits of the delightful shade afibrded by the superstructure. A lodge of the largest size may easily be made to accommodate fifteen persons. The interior is arranged by placing the fixtures for sleeping at the circumference of the circle, which aflTord seats to the inmates, and thus a sufficient space is left vacant between them and the centre fire. This kind of dwelling is the one almost universally adopted by the mountain and prairie Indians, and is, perhaps, better suited to their con- dition and mode of life than any other that could be devised. Dependent solely upon the chase for a subsistence, the various Indian tribes inhabiting the mountains . and countries adjacent can occupy no fixed residences. Contrary to the habits of more eastern nations, among whom agriculture commands attention to a greater or less extent, they are continually necessitated to rove from place to place in pursuit of game. Give to one of them a bow, arrows, knife, lodge, and running horse, and he is rich, happy and contented. When the erratic propensities of the buffalo (upon which is his almost exclusive dependence) compel him to change his location, he has only to pull down his lodge, saddle his horse, and away. So accustomed are they to this incessant rambling, they regard it more as a pleasure than an inconvenience. I have frequently seen hundreds of families moving together, — presenting to the unsophisticated beholder a novel and amusing spectacle, — with their horses, mules, dogs, men, squaws, children, and all the paraphernalia of savage domestic economy and tlie rude accoutrements of peace and war, commingled indiscrimi- nately. The Sioux tribe, to whose country we have now introduced the reader, IB, perhaps, the largest Indian nation upon the continent of North America, with the exception of the ancient Mexicans, if indeed they may be called Indians. This tribe occupies a territory extending from the St. Peters, of tlie Mississippi, to the Missouri, and from thence to the forks of the Platte, and up that river to its head-waters. They are supposed to num- ber not far from eighty thousand men, women, and children, and are divided into many fractional parts, each bearing its own name, yet speaking th« same language and claiming a common nationality. Of theM divisions are tlie Brules, Oglallas, Yanktaus, Piankehawi, 9 98 DRUNKEN INDIANS. Mmecosiae, Blackfeet, Broken-arrows, and Assenaboins. with many oth-= era whose namea have escaped my recollection. The only perceptible difference in language, is, in the pronuciation of words like the following, meallOi appelh and Lacota, — those upon the Mississippi, and some in the vicinity of the Missouri, pronouncing them ineaddoy appeddo, and Dor cota. The members of tliis nation, so far as my obsei-vation extends, are a cowardly, treacherous, thieving set, taken as a body — and are well desemng the appellation of mean and contemptible; though there are .some hon- orable exceptions to the remark. Any effort to civilize them must necessarily prove tedious, if not alto- gether impracticable, while they adhere to their present roving habits ;— though three several missionary stations have been recently established among them, with slight success ; viz : at St. Peters, Lac qui Parle, and Traverse des Sioux. But the Indians of those sections, being under the more direct influence of the U. S. Government, have begun to abandon their former wandering habits, and betake themselves to agricultural pur- suits. The term Siuox, as applied to this nation, is of Franco-Canadian ori- gin — being a corruption of the word sued, and means drunk or drunkeuj—in allusion to their excessive fondness for liquor and predilection to inebri- acy. The name by which they call themselves, and are known among other tribes, is Lacota, or Cut-throats, — for such is the literal meaning of the term ; and rarely, indeed, were ever a pack of scoundrels more justly entitled to the appellation. The night of our arrival at Fort Pla-tte was the signal for a grand jollifi- cation to all hands, (v/ith two or three exceptions,) who soon got most gloriously drunk, and such an illustration of the beauties of harmony as was then perpetrated, would have rivalled Bedlam itself, or even the famous ouncil chamber beyond the Styx. Yelling, screeching, firing, shouting, fighting, swearing, drinking, and such Uke interesting performances, were kept up without intermission, — and woe to the poor fellow who looked for repose that night, — he might as well have thought of sleeping with a tliousand cannon bellowing at his ears. The sceae was prolonged till near sundown the next day, and several made their egress from this beastly carousal, minus shirts and coats, — with ewoller. e^3s, bloody noses, and empty pockets, — the latter circumstance will be easily understood upon the mere mention of the fact, that liquor, in this country, is sold for four dollars per pint. The day following was ushered in by the enactment of another scene of comico-tragical character. The Indians encamped in the vicinity, being extremely solicitous to imi- tate the example of their " illustrious predecessors," scon as the first tints of morning began to paint the cast, commenced their demands for fire- water ; and, ere the sun had told an hour of his course, they were pretty well - Jvanced in the state of " how came ye so," and seemed to exercise their musical powers in wonderful rivalry witli their white brethren. Men, women, and children were seen running from lodge to lodge with Indian Funeral. — Page 101. AN INDIAN FUNERAL. 101 of liquor, inviting their friends and relatives to drink ; while whooping, singing, drunkenness, and trading for fresh supplies to admin- ister to the demands of intoxication, had evidently become the order of the day. Soon, individuals were noticed passing from one to another, with mouths full of the coveted tire-water, drawing the lips of favored friends in close contact, as if to kiss, and ejecting the contents of their own into the eager mouths of others, — thus aflfording the delighted recipients tests of their fervent esteem in the heat and strength of the strange draught. At this stage of the game the American Fur Company, as is charged, commenced dealing out to them, gratuitously, strong drugged liquor, for the double purpose of preventing a sale of the article by its competitor in in trade, and of creating sickness, or inciting contention among the Indians, while under the influence of sudden intoxication, — hoping thereby to induce the latter to charge its ill eflTects upon an opposite source, and thus, by destroying the credit of its rival, monopolize for itself the whole trade. It is hard to predict, with certainty, what would have been the result of this reckless policy, had it been continued through the day. Already its effects became apparent, and small knots of drunken Indians were seen in various directions, quarrelling, preparing to fight, or fighting, — while others lay stretched upon the ground in helpless impotency, or staggered from place to place with all the revolting attendencies of intoxication. The dram-3., however, was here brought to a temporary close by an inci- dent which made a strange contrast in its immediate results. One of the head chiefs of the Brule village, in riding at full speed from Fort John to Fort Platte, being a little too drunk to navigate, plunged headlong from his horse and broke his neck when witliin a few rods of his destination. Then was a touching display of confusion and excitement Men and squaws commenced bawling like children ; — ^the whites were bad, very bad, said they, in their grief, to give Susu-ceicha tlie fire-water that caused his death. But the height of their censure was directed against the American Fur Company, as its liquor had done the deed. The body of the deceased chief was brought to the Fort, by his rela- tives, with a request that the whites should assist at its burial ; but they were in a sorry plight for such a service. There, however, were found sufficiently sober for the task, and accordingly commenced operations. A scaffold was soon erected for the reception of the body, which, in the mean time, had been fitted for its last airy tenement. This duty was performed by the relatives of the deceased in the following manner: it was first washed, then arrayed in the habiliments last worn by Susu- ceicha during life, and sewed in several envelopes of lodge-skin, with the bow, arrows, and pipe once claiming him as their owner. This done, all things were ready for the proposed burial. The corpse was then borne to its final resting place, tollowed by a throng of relatives and friends. While moving onward with the dead, the train of mourners filled the air with their lamentations and rehearsala of the virtues and meritorious deeds of their late chief. Arrived at the scaffold, the corpse was carefully reposed open it facing the east, while beneath its head was placed a small sack of meat, tobacco and vermilion, with a comb, looking-glass, and knife, and at its feet, a ■mall banner that had been carried m the prooeMion. A ooTering 9i 102 SPEECH OF LONG BOW ON THE DEATH OF HIS FATHER. ■carlet cloth was then spread over it, and the body firmly lashed to iti place by long strips of raw hide. This done, the horse of the chieftain was produced as a sacrifice for the benefit of his master in his long journey to the celestial hunting ground. The above mode of sepulture is that commonly practised by the moun- tain tribes. It is seldom indeed they ever dispose of their dead in any other way than by placing them either upon scaffolds, branches of trees, or in some elevated position, not unfrequently covered by lodges, where they are left to moulder and waste in the winds and rain, till the bones falling one by one upon the prairie, are gathered up by surviving friends, and finally entombed in mother earth. The corpse of the ill-fated man being thus securely fixed in the airy couch assigned it, to await the speedy process of dissolution, and mingle with its kindred earth, that its bones might find their proper places be- neath the prairie sod, the village once acknowledging him as its head now met round the scaffold, men. women, children, and little ones, to bewail the sad fate that had bereaved them of their loved chieftain. First, encircling it at a respectful distance, were seated the old men, next the young men and warriors, and next the squaws and children. Etespa-huska, (Long Bow,) eldest son of the deceased, thereupon com- menced speaking, while the weeping throng ceased its tumult to listen to his words : " Oh, Susu-ceicha ! thy son bemourns thee, even as was wont the fledgelings of the war-eagle to cry for the one that nourished them, ere yet thy swift arrow had laid him in dust. Sorrow fills the heart of Etespa-huska ; sadness crushes it to the ground and sinks it beneath the sod upon which he treads. "Thou hast gone, oh Susu-ceicha! Death hath conquered thee, whom none but death could conquer ; and who shall now teach thy son to be brave as thou was brave ; to be good as thou wast good ; to fight the foe of thy people and acquaint thy chosen ones with the war-song of 'triumph ! to deck his lodge with the scalps of the slain, and bid the feet of the young move swiftly in the dance 1 And who shall teach Etespa-hus- ka to follow the chase and plunge his arrows into the yielding sides of the tired bull 1 Who shall teach him to call for his prey from the deer the elk, and the antelope, as thou hast done, or win honors from the slaughtered bear ] '* None. Etespa-huska has no teacher. He is alone. Susu-ceicha is dead ! " But thou wilt soon gain the happy country. Thy journey is short. There wilt thou bestride the fleet horses that never tire, and roam amid the fruits and flowers, the sweet waters and pleasure-groves of that lovely clime • for thou art worthy. "And, oh, Wakantunga! (Great Spirit,) do thou pity Etespa-huska. Do thou teach him to be brave and good like his father, for who is theie to pity or teach him now he is left alone !" Then, turning to the audience he continued : " Brothers : Strong was the arm of Susu-ceicha, and fleet was the arrow ■hot from his bow. Thirty and five of the enemy hath he slain in battle, whoM waving locks were the trophies that ofttiraes measured the quick TSE COAST CLEAB. 103 step of the scalp-dance. Fourscore and ten were the medicine-dogs he brought from the land of the foeman, that their shrill neighings rnigh* greet the ears, and their strong backs carry the people he loved; lor brave was the heart of Susu-ceicha ! " What warrior ever came to his lodge and went hungry, or naked, or needy away ] What widow or orphan of his people blessed not theii chief, when he returned from the chase and apportioned to them their wonted dues from the choice spoils of the buffalo 1 for generous was the aoul of Susu-ceicha. " Brothers : Susu-ceicha is dead. No more shall his voice be heard in your councils, or his courage lead you to victory, or his generosity rejoice the hearts of the needy, the widow, and the orphan. Etespa- huska laments a father and a teacher. The Burnt-thighs* a mighty chieftain ; and the nation its bravest warrior ! We all mourn him ; sor- row fills the hearts, and tears wash the cheeks of his people. It is good that we be mourn him, and mingle with the winds the voices of our lam- entation, for who shall now stand in the place of Susu-ceicha. " Brothers : Let us stamp his memory upon our hearts and imitate his virtues, that our acts may rear to him a living monument, which may endure till time itself shall die !" No sooner had the orator ceased, than a tremendous howl of gj-'^f burst from the whole assemblage, men, women, and children, which was re- newed in quick succession for several hours, when finally the bewailing multitude retired to their lodges. CHAPTER VIII. Coast clear, and Trade opened. — ^More visitors. — Smoking out the natives. — Inci- dent illustrative of Indian character.— Expeditions for trade. — Black Hills.— Raw- hide. — ^An Indian and a buffalo chase. — Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. — L'eau-qui-court. — Remarks. — Lost. — White river ; its valley, fruits, and game. — Building site. — The Devil's Tea-pot. — ^Trouble* with Indians. — Theft and its punishment.— Indian soldiers.— Christmas extras.— Outrageous conduct.— Has- caUty of traders.— " Tliat Old Serpent."— Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. — Notions upon general morality. The events of the day had for the present put an effectual stop to dissi- l>ation among the Indians, and not long afterwards they began to pull dov, n their lodges and remove to the neghborhood of bufialo, for the purpose of selecting winter-quarters. The disgusting scene"^ connected v^h our arrival at the Fort had pretty much ceased on the evening of the se^nd day, and everything, with a few exceptions, began to assume its wonted aspect. •This ifl the interpretation of the Indian name which the French have si»«t. «< by th* word Brul^ 104 EXPEDITION TO WHITE RIVER. The winter trade was now considered fully opened. Parties were sen* witli goods from the Fort to ditFerent villages, for the purpose of barter, and alpdirs began to show a business-like appearance. Some two weeks subsequently, a band of Brules arrived in the vicinity. They had come for a drunken spree, and soon opened a brisk trade in liquor. Our visitors crowded tlie Fort houses in quest of aiticles of plunder, and became an incessant source of annoyance to the engages. One roomj in particular, was tlironged almost to the exclusion of its regular occu* pants. The latter, losing all patience, at lengtli hit upon a plan to lid themselves of the intruders. After closely covering the chimney funnel, by aid of some half rotten chips a smoke was raised ; the doors and windows being closed to prevent its egress. In an instant tiie apartment became filled to suffocation, — quite too much so for the endurance of the wondering savages, who gladly with- drew to gain the pure air of the exterior. On being told it was the Long- knife's medicine,* they replied : " Ugh ! Wakea sutiello ha Mena-lmska tour !" (Ugh ! The Long-knife's medicine is strong .') During their stay at the Fort, an incident occurred which w^ill serve to illustrate a singular trait in the character of these Indians. A brave, named Bello-tunga, (Big Eagle,) received a blow over tlie head from a half crazed drunl^en trader, which came very near terminating in serious consequences. What would liave been the result, it is hard to tell, had not the whites promptly interfered, and, wuth much effort, succeeded in pacifying the enraged savage by presenting him a horse. At first he would admit of no compromise short of the offender's blood- he had been struck by the pale-face, and blood must atone for the aggies- sion, — unless that should wipe out the disgrace, he could never again uft up liis head among his people, — tliey would call him a coward, and say the white man struck Bello-tunga and he dared not to resent it. The services of his fatlier, hereupon, were secured in behalf of the offending party, which, after great ado, finally effected an adjustment of the difficulty. An Indian considers it tlie greatest indignity to receive a blow from any one, even from his own brother ; — and, unless the affair is settled by the bestowment of a trespass offering on the part of the aggressor, he is almost sure to seek revenge, either tlirough blood or the destruction ol propeiiv- This is a more especial chamcteristic of the Sioux than of any other nation. In fact, the Snakes, Crows, Arapahos, Chyennes, and most other tiibes arc far leas nice in its observance, — tliough all regard the Uke an insult thai justly calls for revenge. Soon after, an expedition was detached to Fort Lancaster, on the South Fork Platte, and another to White "ft ver, an affluent of the Missouri, some *This word, in Indian signification , means any person or tiling possessed ot '.xtta- '"-;'■ tti7 or supernatural powers, as well as any act for conciliating the favor ary» obtaining the aasistanoe of the Great Spirit. TJiai medicine is the strongest which w the most efficient for its intended purposes. A PROBLEM IN MORALITY. X0« eighty miles northwest of the main trading post. The latter party inclndeo myself with its number. Om" pm-pose was to build houses in the vicinity of White river, and thus secure the trade of several villages of Brules that had selected their winter quarters in the neighborhood, and were anxiously av/aiting our arrival. On the last of November we were under way with two carts freighted with goods and liquor, accompanied by only six whites, one negro, and an Indian. Crossing the Platte opposite the Fort, we continued our course, v/est by north, over a broken and tumulous prairie, occasionally diversifiod by thick clusters of pines and furrowed by deep ravines, and abounding in diminutive valleys, whose tall, withered grass gave evidence of the rich soil producing it. To our left the high, frowning summits of the Black Hills began to show themselves in the long distance, like dark clouds, and planted their dense pine forests upon tiie broken ridges whose irregular courses invaded tlie cheerless prairie far eastward. A ride of twenty miles brought us to Rawhide, where we passed the following night and day. This creek traces its course over a broad sandy bed, through a wide valley of rich clayey loam, sUghtly timbered and luxuriant in grasses. Towards its head, it is shut in upon botii sides by high pine hills ; but, in passing on, these mural confines are exchanged for the prairies, and the creek finally debouches into the Platte. An abundance of preite and rushes afforded fine pasturage to our animals, and a kindly grove of dry cottonwood gave us requisite fuel for camp-fire. Before lea\'ing, we were joined by another Indian mounted upon a dark bay horse, the noblest animal of its kind I remember to have seen among •Jie mountain tribes. It had been stolen from the Snakes during the past summer, as its present owner informed us, and he seemed not a httle p. oud of the admiration we bestowed upon it. The new comer proved Arketclieta-waka, (Medicine Soldier,) a brother of Bello-tunga, the brave referred to on a former occasion. Seating him- self by the fire, he looked dejected and melancholy, and his face bore in- dubitable evidence of a pergonal encounter with some one. On enquiring the cause of this, we learned that he liad left his father's lodge by reason of a quarrel he had had with his eldest brother, — the latter having struck him with a fire-brand and burnt his body in several places during a drunken spree, — he was now on his way to White river, there to await the suitable time for revenge, when he should kill his brother. We told him this would not be right ; — it was liquor that had done him the wrong, and not his Ijrother ; — -liquor was bad ! He seemed to ackiiowJedge the truth of our suggestions, and asked " why tlie pale-faces brought the fire-water to do the red man so much harm?" Our trader replied, '" The whites want robes, and can get them for hquor when nothing else will do it." The answer evidently perplexed him, while he sat gazing jUentiy into the fire, with his arms akimbo upon his knees, and palms supporting his chin, as if striving to work out to his own satiofection ^^his strange problem in moraJity. 106 PAINFUL TRAVELLIN&. The third day we resumed our course, and, after a drive of six or eigh miles, came upon a laige band of buflalo. Here, at our request, the Med icine Soldier dofled his robe, slung his arrow-case over his naked shoulders mounted his horse bow in hand, and started for the chase. At first he rode slowly, as if reserving the speed of his charger till the proper time. The bulJalo permitted him to approach within a few hundrea yards before they commenced flight. Then was a magnificent spectacle. The aflrighted beasts flew over the ground with all the speed that extrema ' terror lent to their straightened nerves, and plied their nimble feet with a, velocity almost incredible — but they were no match for the noble steed the Indian bestrode. He was among them in a trice, and horse, Indian, and buffalo were lost in identity, as they swept over a snow-clad prairie, in one thick, black mass, like the career of a fierce tornado, tossing the loose drifts upwards in small particles, that, in their descent, pictured white clouds fallmg to the earth, ever and anon enshrouding the whole band from view. Now their course is turned and makes directly towards us. They pass, all foaming with sweat — ^with lolling tongues and panting breath — but they still seem loath to abate from the energy of their wild terror. Soon the Indian and his gallant steed part from them. He has selected the choicest of the band and pursues her singly. Side by side both cow and horse keep even pace, while the ready archer pours in his arrows, — BOTu*; of tliem, forcing tlieir entire way through the bleeding beast, fell loosely to the ground upon the opposite side. At length, spent by the toilsome flight, exhausted by loss of blood, and pierced through her vitals by the practised marksman that follows her, she nalts for fight. Now, she plunges with mad fury at the horse, — ^the well-trained steed clears the force of her charge at a bound. Again, she halts, — ^the blood spouts from her nostiils and mouth — she staggers. Again, she musters her expiring energies for one more desperate onset at her enemy, as if deter- mined, if die she must, not to die unavenged. Her charge proves futile as the former. A death-sickness comes over her. Her life is fast ebbing from within her. She reels, — she totters — she falls, — and breathes her life away upon the blood-dyed snow. A few moments' delay put us in possession of an ample supply of fresh meat, — ^the Indian reserving the robe only as his share. The cow proved a most excellent selection, and did honor to the judgment of the hunter. As we zavelled on, the snow, which scarcely an hour since had first ittracted our attention, became deeper and deeper, and our progress more tedious ami difficult. From bare ground and comparatively moderate climate, we were fully inducted to tlie region of snow, ice. and winter. The prairie was high and undulating. To our left an immense wall of secondary rock surmounted a ridge of naked hills, tliat described in its course the curve of a rainbow, enclosing upon three sides a large valley facing the east, — thence, stretch- ing westward and raising higher and higher, hastened to mingle its heads among the cloud-capped summits and snows of the neighboring mouD- tains. FroA a light coating of loose snow our course soon became obstructed L'EAU-QUI-COURT.-REMARKS. 109 by still deepening layers, covered with a thick crust, scarcely strong enough to bear our weight, but quite sufficient to wrench and jar us at every step, and make our advance threefold tiresome. The cold was so intense, we were forced to walk to keep from freezing. Our difficulties thickened the farther we progressed. Night closed in upon us, and we could no longer distinguish our course. Yet we kept on, in hopes of reaching some creek or spring where we might await the coming day. Slowly, onward, — plunge, plunge, at every step ; — now prostrate at full length upon the hard crust, and then again staggering in resistless mimicry of drunken men. The chill winds sweeping over the dreary expanse pierced us through at each whiff, and seemed to penetrate every nerve, and joint, and muscle, as if to transform our hearts' blood into icicles. But still it was plunge, plunge along ; onward, plunge, fall ; but yet onward ! There is no stopping place here, — 'tis push on or die ! Thus, travelling for three or four hours, not knowing whither, we came finally to the leeward of a high hill. The agreeable change produced by the absence of wind, called forth a hearty response. " Camp, ho," was echoed upon all sides. But here was no water for ourselves or our animals. We must yet go on. Still we L'"^'"-?d — loath to leave the favored spot. The Indian, who had been absent for a brief space, now came up, shouts ing: " Mme, washtasta !" (Water, very good !) " Tarkoo mine ?" asked the trader. (What water ?) " Mine-loosa. Tunga warkpoUo." (Running-water. A large creek.) It proved L'eau-qui-court, the stream upon which we had intended to pass the night. Pushing on, a few moments brought us to its banks, in a deep valley covered with snow. A fire was then promptly built from a small quantity of wood we had the precaution to take with us from Rawhide, and all hands were soon as comfortably conditioned as circumstances would admit. A hearty supper served to appease the appetites so keenly sharpened by a toilsome journey of thirty miles, occupying from sunrise till ten o'clock at night. This over, each one cleared for himself a place upon the frozen ground, and, spreading down his bed, quickly forgot his cares and sufferingi in the welcome embrace of sleep. L'eau-qui-court, or Running- water, heads in a small lake under the has* of the first range of Black Hills, and, following an easternly course, emptief into the Missouri, about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles aboye Council Bluff. It derives its name from the rapidity of its current, which rolls over a pebbly bed with great velocity. At this place it is narrow and deep, with steep banks, and not a stick of timber is to be found on it, above or below, for twenty miles. At the lake where it heads, there is an abundance of timber ; large groves of cotton- wood are al»o found at some distance below our present camp. The intermediate country, from Rawhide, is a cold and cheerless expanse almost at all seasons of the year. From the commencement of fall to the ▼eiy close of spring, it is subject to frost and snow j — for what \ 10 / 110 WHITE RIVER SCENERY. it is hard to conjecture. Its surface, though quite elevated, is not sufficiently so to make such marked difference in cUmate between it and adjoim'ng sections. The next day proved cloudy ; we, however, resumed our course which led over a rough, tumulous country, covered with snow and darkened by occasional clusters of pines. Early in the morning our Indians left us and took a nearer route to the village. Soon after we became bewildered in the obscurity of the atmos- phere, and travelled till night unconscious whether right or wrong. Finally, coming to a deep ravine that obstructed further progress, we turned to a neighboring grove of pines, at the point of an eminence, and made camp. It was a bleak airy place, but by aid of a huge fire of dry pine we were quite comfortable, despite a heavy fall of snow during the niglit. With the morning our perplexities were renewed. Directly in front lay a broad and impassable ravine, beyond which a high mountain range arose to view. Should we go up or down ? After much debate we decided upon the latter, and, bearing northward during the day, struck the head of a stream which subsequently proVed White river. This stream traces its way through a broad valley, enclosed upon eithei side by high pine hills. Its banks are studded with tiiick groves of cotton wood, elm, ash, box-elder, and willow, — with nearly all the varieties of fruit-bearing shrubs and trees indigenous to the mountains. In the item of plums and cherries, it gave evidence of exuberant fecundity.. The bushes, in many instances, yet bore the dried relics of their burthen, as if to tempt the beholder's taste, — while the tall grass and rosebuds,* every where attested the summer-verdure and beauty of the valley in which they grew. The snow that had hitherto impeded our progress, now gradually became less as we advanced down the valley, and soon gave place to bare ground. Grame appeared in great numbers, attracted from the adjoining hills to pass the winter in this inviting locahty. A journey of two days brought us to the site selected for houses, and, consequently to a halt, for the present The place was surrounded by wild and romantic scenery. Directly in front, upon the opposite side of the creek, arose a perpendicular wall of marl and half formed sandstone, towering, stratum above stratum, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and overlooking the valley above and below, — while further on, a steep hill-side, covered with tall, straight, and almost branchless pines, burst upon the view. Rearward a gradual acchvity led to a high plateau, some two miles broad, coated with long, tall grass, when a ridge of abrupt pine hills in- troduced the more distant mountains, with their rugged sides and frowning summits, — and, higher up, an immense pile of earthy limestone, sur- *Rosebuds are found in great quantities in many places, throughout the ra during the winter, and attain a large size. They are highly esteemed by »n article t>f food, and have not unfrequently be ' " ^~ " ''' •if eitwrae hunger and lack of other eatables. raountamB, many aa A THIEr PUNISHED. Ill mounting a wing of hills as it approached the river, presented a medley of curious and fantastic shapes, — objects alike of amusement and wonder. One of the latter, denominated the " Devil's Tea-pot," exliibited exter nally an almost perfect facsimile of that kind of vessel. It was of gigantic proportions, — ^being one hundred feet high, and, occupying a conspicuoup position, may be seen for a distance of many miles. The Indians from a near village, immediately upon our arrival, came flocking around for the threefold purpose of begging, trading and stealing ; and, from this forward, we rarely experienced an interval free from tl-e.i anoyance. Prompt arrangements were here commenced for biiilding a store room and trading house ; — ^but meanwhile, we were forced to keep strict guard both night and day. Two braves were secured to " act soldier," and assist in keeping the thieving propensities of their people in check. Yet, notwithstanding the united vigilance of all hands, the latter would frequently perpetrate their petit larcenies under our very eyes, without being detected in the act,— so adroit were tliey at the bus'iness. An instance of this kind happening to myself is perhaps worth relating. Previously to the erection of houses, we were necessitated to sleep in the open air. Wearied by the lateness of the hour, one night I spread down my coucli by the camp-fire, with the intention of retiring. The weather being very cold, I had scarcely turned to warm myself, when a backward glance revealed the sudden disappearance of my sleeping appendages- robes blanl^ets and all ! Informing tlie trader of my mishap, and catching a glimpse of the thief as he dodged past a knot of Indians at the further extremity of the camp, gun in hand, I started after the nimble lark ; but the thick bushes and darkness soon shut him from view and left me in fruitless pursuit. At length, relinquishing the hope of ever regaining the stolen articles, and vexed at the impiotis savage, who, instead of obeying the Scripture in- '"imction of "take up % bed and walk,'' had snatched my bed and kun! I ieturned to camp. Here I was shown a robe, by the trader, that had been brought in scarcely a minute before and offered in barter for liquor ; — ^it was one of the two I had lost. The bearer was now promply charged as being accessory to the theft This he stoutly denied, alleging that the robe had been given him by an- other Indian for tlie purpose he had offered it. Upon this the affair was referred to our soldiers, who, after much parley- ing and no little threatening, succeeded in causing him to return the mis- sing articles. The fellow then demanded of me a cup of liquor as pay for bringing them back. Mustering to my aid a few words of Sioux, I replied: " Mea warche yau wechacha ceicha, opata-ne ha warktash-ne coga Ir—I neither like bad men, nor will I pay for doing bad." Marto-nazher, (Standing Bear,) one of our soldiers, on hearmg mv an- swer, arose and addressed the crowd in an earnest and impressive maimer. He was grieved on account of the many depredations continually commit- ted by his people upon the property of the whites. It is wrong — ^veiy wrong, said hei to conduct in this manner j— if such wickedness is allo^ 112 INDIAN SOLDIERS. ed, the whites will abandon the country. Whites do not steal from us.— Something must be done — an example must be had — the perpetrators of tliese outrages must be punished. "You, Schena-sarpah," he continued, throwing his piercing glance full upon the chop-fallen culprit, who hung his head for shame at being caught in a manner so little to his credit, " Aye, you Scena-sarpah do carry a bow and arrows ; you call yourself a brave ; and yet you steal from our friends, the pale-faces ! " Do brave men steal from their friends? No! Schena-sarpah should alone steal irom his enemies, if he be a brave man and a soldier. " Who are they that steal from their friends ? Squaws and children, as Schena-sarpah well knows. Then he is no better than they ! Why should he carry a bow ? Why go to war, or follow the chare ? Squaws and children do neither. None but brave men go to war — none but they should follow the chase. " Schena-sarpa needs no bow. Let him go to his lodge. There let him make robes and moccasins for braves, and take care of children with squaws, — for such should be his occupation, and only such should be hia companions !'' So saying, he approached the unresisting thief, and, taking from him his bow, arrows, and panther-skin quiver, resumed his seat. Then, breaking the arrows and shooting thera away, one by one, among the trees, he snap- ped the bow across his knee and threw it into the fire. The bright flame from the burning bow had barely died away, when the quiver was consign- ed to the same fate. As the last fragments of the effeminate's weapons mouldered to ashes, a smile of satisfaction played upon the countenance of the Standing Bear, at the thought of having avenged the wrongs of the white man. And, truly, this was an infliction of summary punishment. The amount of property destroyed exceeded the value of a horse, and, in the estimation of an Indian, constitutes a man's chief wealth. The offender was thus not only left disarmed by the operation, but made poor, and reduced to a level With the squaws and children to whom he was set apart. He be- moaned his loss most piteously, and started for his lodge, bellowing like a motherless calf. Another instance of theft occurred soon after, almost as remarkable. A robe was stolen from off one of our party, while he was asleep, and barter- ed for whiskey, without his knowing it ! Our Indian soldiers were of great service in conducting the trade. If any difliculty occurred, they were always at hand to assist in its adjustment, and preserve order and quiet so far as lay in their power. If any visitor became troublesome, they at once ordered him to his lodge, and enforced their commands in case of resistance. Every trader is necessitated to employ one or more braves to assist him in his business at the villages. An Indian considers it a great honor thus to receive the confidence of a white man and " act soldier " for him, as he denominates it. Some of them have not unfrequently gone so far as to kill those of their people who proved guilty of misusing the traders bj whom 'iiey were employed. j OUTRAGEOUS CONDUCT. 11« ITiey exercise a kind of supervisory office in the management of af&irs which could not well be dipensed with, — and very often have the lives of traders been preserved by tlie judgment and discretion of these men. Dec. 25th. Christmas finds us in our new residence, which, with the ex- ception of a chimney, is now completed. This great annual festival is observed with all the exhilarating- hilarity and good cheer that circumstances will ai,^ow. Several little extras for tlie occasion have been procured from the Ind\ ns, which prove quite whole- some and pieasant-tasted. One of these, called washena, consists of dried meat pulverized and mixed with marrow ; another is a preparation of cherries, preserved when first picked by pounding and sun-drying them, (they are served by mixing them with bouillie, or the liquor of fresh-boiJed meat, thus giving to it an agreeable winish taste ;) a third is marrow-fat, an article in many respects superior to butter ; and, lastly, we obtained a kind of flour made from the fomme blanc, (white apple,) answering very well as a substitute for that of grain. • The above assortment, with a small supply of sugar and coffee, as well as several other dainties variously prepared, affords aa excellent dinner, — and, though diflferent in kind, by no means inferior in quality to tlie generality of dinners for which the day is noted in more civilized communities. The day following our turbulent neighbors were augmented in num. ber by the accession of another village of Brules, and Marto-cogershne, of whom I have spoken upon a former occasion, became with his family our constant annoyance. Visiting us at one time, squaws and all — as was his daily custom — to beg liquor, (which, some way or other, he always obtained,) tlie brother of our tormentor demanded a quantity of that article to take with him to hia lodge. This, after many sharp words, was offered; but, having no vessel for its conveyance, he extended his demands to a kettle, — which, of course, was refused ; whereupon he threatened vengeance unless both were forth- coming upon the mocosco,* (prairie,) and required still farther the gift of a pair of moccasins. Our trader replied, " The liquor is for you, and here are the moccasins, (pulling off his own and passing them to him,) but the kettle you cannot have." The affair thus ended for the present, and the modest beggar retired tc his lodge. The next morning, however, two of our horses were found pierced with arrows, and so badly, that they died soon after. At another time, Marto-cogershne became so enraged at being refused a whole keg of liquor " on the prairie," he rushed upon the trader with hia bufxjherrknife to kill him. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, jiad I not stayed the descending weapon by seizing the fellow's arm. Here our soldiers interfered and put him out of the house, — closing tlie door upon him. 'i'he exasperated savage then commenced shooting upon us through the door ; — two Indian boys passing in the interval also furnish- * This expression implies the bestowment of anytlxing as a free gift. It is also used to doaote a raudom way of speaking with regard to truiii. 10* 114 INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. :l ed marks for his gun, and not long subsequently a mule and an ox belong- ing to us fell to appease his insulted dignity. I However, the chef d'ouvre of his rascality was exhibited in stealing our I whole cavallard,^ consisting of ten head of horses and mules, which he \ drove into the mountains. We were compelled to give a quantity of liquor and ammunition, two blankets, and several other articles before we could secure their return. From the movement of things, he was evidently instigated by the Ameri- can Fur Company traders to do us all the mischief in his power. Certain it is, he was their regular " soldier," and received from them numerous presents in consideration of his good conduct. The employees of this company are frequently guilty of such disgrace- ful conduct. In connection with this conclusion I might cite instance upon instance, and string out a volume of proof, v/ere it necessary. Soon after Christmas we comm.enced erecting our chimney. The ma- terials for it were procured from an adjoining bank. While engaged in quarrying them, the operator came to a crevice lllled with a strange fleshy substance, coiled together like the folds of a huge rope. " Hallo !" cried he, with astonishment, "here's the Devil, himself!" The extraordmary announcement brought all hands to the spot to get a peep at •' Old Nick," and the Indians, also, witnessing the unusual commo- tion, came hurrying up to learn its cause. The result proved, that, if not the Devii, it was his great prototype, — it was that " Old Serpent," with all his progeny. By means of a stick, thirty-six large snakes were exposed to view, — some of them six feet in length. They were in a torpid state, the result of the severe cold of winter. Having drawn them out, one by one, it was proposed to treat them to a warm bath. Accordingly, after placing them in a hole for the purpose, a keetle of scalding water was thrown upon them. The vivifying eliects of this unwonted application restored them to a sudden animation, when, wriggling and twisting for a few moments in all the contortions of agony, they at last tacitly curled up and expired. The Indians were much shocked on seeing this, and expressed their astonishment at our reckless presumption by tiieir deeply accented " tula," —-turning away from the spot with evident emotions of terror. On inquiring the cause, I learned in answer, that the various Indian tribes in the vicinity of the mountains are accustomed to regard the snake with a kind of superstitious veneration, and consider the act of killing it a sure harbinger of calamity. In the observance of this singiSar notion, they are scrupulously exact ; — but, in despite of repeated inquries, I have been unable to obtain the reasons upon which the wliim is based. These tribes cherish many religious tenets, rites, and customs, — some general and others peculiar only to individuals, * This is a momtalu phrase of Spanish origin, (cave lardo,) and means a band ii lK>ne8 01 mules THEOLOGICAL NOTIONS. 115 An Indian will never pronounce the name of the Big Medicine, or Great Spirit, other than in a reverential manner, nor upon trival occasions. This being is considered the Great Superintendent of all things, whose power sustains the universe, — causing day and night with tlie varying Beasons, — making the grass to grow, the water to run, and the rains to fall, for the good of man and beast. Some imagine Ho lives in the sun ; others, in the air ; others, in the ground ; and others in the immensity of His works The animal or thing possessed of wonderful or extraordinary powers, Buch as their ignorance ascribes to be the attributes of the Supreme Being, they look upon as endowed with a greater or Jess share of His presence, and venerate it accordingly. Thus, the sun, flr©, lightning, thunder, fountains of peculiar medicinal qualities, extraordinary localities, and various other things are alike objects of religious regard. Although their theological sentiments are generally the same, the man- ner of showing their respect for this Overruling Providence differs with different tribes, families, and even persons. For instance, — some tribes shave their heads in token of their submission to Him. Others mark themselves for His own by some peculiar manner of cutting their ears for the reception of ornaments ; — while others burn their thighs, tattoo their breasts, scar their arms, or flatten the heads of infants, for a like purpose. The instrument, with which such ceremonies are performed, is invariabl thrown away. In case of cutting the ears of an infant, the gift bestowed upon the operator is regarded as indicative of its success during life ; — parents have been known to give as high as ten horses on like occasions. Some make indelible marlis of a blue color upon their chins and fore- heads,—- or the figures of lizards, snakes, arrows, or other objects upon their arms. Some show their reverence in the peculiar manner of receivir g the pipe and passing it to another ; — others by certain ceremonies before smoking, — thus, pointing the pipe-stem to the zenith, then towards the ground, then horizontally upon either side, as if saying, " Oh thou, whose habitation is immensity, accept this as the willing tribute of homage from thy child." They will never allow a bone of any kind to be broken within their lodges, and express great consternation and alarm at such an occurrence. Some will not permit a stick of wood to be struck with a knife or other edged tool while burning, and others exhibit their devotion by some pe- culiarity in the structure of their lodges, or the mode of placing their medicine-bags, the length and shape of their arrows, their fashion of hair- dressing, and various minutia) of like character. Others again will never eat unless they bestow the first mouthful as an offering to the prairie, — believing that, as the prairie affords water, grass, and game, for the good of the red man, it is the fiillest cmbodyment of the Essence of Good ; therefore, in the observance of this practice, they not only acknov^^iedge their faith in the existence of the Great Spirit, but set apart the first of their substance as test of tlieir piety. Their ideas of the existence of a principle, or being, wno is the author and prompter of evil, are crude and indefinite. They are ready to acknowledge its reality, but seem to consider its pep Ii6 DANGERS OF THE LIQUOR TRADE. ■on more manifest in man himself than any other creature or thing. Their enemies they esteem as the more special incarnation of this prin- ciple, and next to them they regard a u orthless, mean, and cowardly indi- vidual of their own people. They also look upon creatures of an injuiious and liurtful nature, as the greater or less impersonation of evil. Their notions of right and wrong are equally simple. It Js right to be brave, to do good to friends, to relieve the needy, to feed the hungry, and to worship the Great Spirit, — these are acts of general morality. There are various other duties taught by tlieir code relative to intercourse with each other, — to children and parents, husbands and wives deference to age, chastity etc., the performance of which is essential to virtue. The line of demarkation between virtue and vice is yet more simple and comprehensive ; — every thing derelict of right is wrong. I shall recur to several points, connected with the foregoing subjects, in another place. CHAPTER IX. Dangers connected with the liquor trade. — Difficulty with Bull Eagle.—Scenes of ^Jbodshed and horror.— Clieating in the fur trade. — How the red man becomes tutored in vice. — A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. — Indian mode of courtship and marriage. — Squaws an article of traffic. — Divorce. — Pluraliiy oi The difficulty and danger, not to say crime and bloodshed, connected with the illicit trade in alcohol, as conducted among our western Indians, is great and imminent. To illustrate this point, I need only to place before the reader a summary of facts which occurred, many of them under my own observation, during the winter of 1842. Soon after our arrival at White river a man was sent to a neighboring village with a keg of diluted alcohol, for the purpose of barter. The Indians, feeling more disposed to drink than pay for it, demanded the keg as a gift " on the prairie." This was refused. They threatened — a fight ensued, (the soldiers and trader defending the keg and the Indians tryinw to take it.) Weapons were used, and the result was, both soldiers and trader were beaten off, — the latter, alter being dragged through the lodge- fire three or four times, narrowly escaped with his life. A party of Indians under the excitement of strong drink, attacked and took a trading house of the American Fur Company, near by, — robbing ist of both liquor and goods. Two parties in the Fur Company's employ, from different posts, met at a neighboring village, — one having goods and the other alcohol. The Indians, as usual, got drunk, and commenced a fight among themselves ; — because the goods-trader happened to be in the lodge of one of the weaker party, they attacked him. He was compelled to flee, and barely escaped with hii bfe through the friendly interference of tlie a^uawe. flis gooda Bull Eagle drinking the Fire-Water. — Page 119. SCENES OF BLOODSHED AND HORROR. 119 weie all stolen; — while one of the Indians who defended him wasbrutallj murdered, and several others wounded. Not long afterwards, our trader was shot at, three or four times, while % (Engaged in this dangerous traffic, and one of his soldiers severely wounded. About tlie same time, the trader of another company received a deep /ab, while dealing out the vile trash, and would have been killed but for he energetic eflbils of his soldiers. Previously to the above, tlie Indians seized upon a trader and compelled him to stand over a hot fire until he was nearly roasted alive, — meanwhile, helping themselves to his stock in hand. Soon after, tv> o w^arriors came to trade for a blanket at our post, — one of whom was drunk. V/hile being w^aited upon, the latter drew his knife and was in the very act of stabbing the unsuspecting clerk, as I caught his wrist and arrested the blow. At another time, as our trader was standing surrounded by us all, he was shot at by a drunken Indian, who, by the merest accident, missed his object. Again, one night a party of drunken Indians undertook to fire the house in order to consume us alive,, but were providentially prevented, owing to its being constructed of green pine logs. The most dangerous time I experienced during the winter w^as near the closa of it. An Indian employed as our soldier, became crazed upon tlie dragged liquor of the American Fur Company, and made his appearance before us in a high state of excitement. This fellow had been denominated by his people the Bull Eagle, (Tahtunga-mobeliu,) and was a chief, — highly esteemed as a medicine-man, and regarded as the greatest brave in the Sioux nation. He was a tail, well-made, noble-looking person — and, — such eyes ! I never saw the like planted beneath the b, ows of any other mortal. Tliey glared like lightning, and, as they fell upon the individual to w^hom directed, seemed to penetrate the very soul and read the embryo thoughts of his heart. Through tlic misrepresentations of those in the interest of the Fur Com- pany, he landed liimself misused by our trader, and came determined on re- venge. Arms in hand and stripped for the contest, accompanied by his wife and two or three friends, he confronted us, — his strange appearance told for what. In ihe fury of passion his every looli gave evidence of the raging demon within. Here, lest he should be misunderstood, he premised by a full statement of his grievances. They were many, but the chief of them was, that our trader had employed another to " act soldier" in his stead, while he was too drunk to perform, the duties of that appointment. " I have been dressed"* as a soldier," said he, " to be laughed at, and now Peazeezeef must die !'^ The room v/as full of Indians, and one of them, an old man, exclaimed . " When Peazeezee dies, let me go under,;}: — I must live no longer !" ♦Prenously, he had been presented with a citizen's dress to secure him for IM company's interest, t Yellow-hair. The Indian name for our trader. tThis term implies death, or the act of dying- 120 EFFECTS OF DRUNKENNESS. " Is this your love for the j^ale-face ?" returned the infuriated chieftain. « Then die you first !" Upon this, seizing the defenceless old man, he drew his knife and made a heart-thrust. The intended victim, however, grasped the descending blade in his bare hand and arrested its course — but his fingers were nearly severed in so doing. Here the wife of Bull Eagle rushed up to 1 1 her husband and seized him by both arms, while others interfered, and thi ' scene of conflict was removed from the apartment to the space in front. Now was a general fight. The women and children, crying for terror, ran about in the utmost confusion and dismay, — while raving combatant* yeJed and whooped, as knives, clubs, and tomahawks were busily dealing WDunds and scattering blood. ^ Soon after, the parties retired to their village, and the melee ended with ouhr six wounded. In a brief interval the Bull Eagle again returned, accompanied by his wife, — the latter earnestly endeavoring to dissuade him from his purpose. A shot was his first salute, on entering the door, v/hich a timely thrust from the squaw averted from its object. The kuid-hearted creature then grasped the bow. Relinquishing it in her hands, the madman made a pass at the trader with his tomahawk, — this blow was dodged, and the heroine, ' rushing between the two, prevented its repetition. Dropping his tomahawk, he then fell upon the object of his hatred, butcher-knife in hand. But here he found himself in the firm grasp of several friendly Indians, by whom he was borne from the room. This state of aflairs was the signal for another engagement between Bull Eagle, at the head of his partizans, aud the friends of tlie whites, — more desperate and bloody than the former. With great difficulty we re- tained our arms from the forcible grasp of the contending factions. This, to us, was a moment fraught with extreme peril — not knowmg friend from foe, and instantly apprehensive of the knives and arrows of the avengeful throng. It was, indeed, a moment when the agony of suspense quivered with thrilling intensity upon every ner\'e, and vibrated in every sinew. To fight, would have been a relief. But, whom should we fight? It might have been our best friends — for who could discriminate ? The death of one connected with either party, at our hands, would have proved the signal for our instant slaughter. Both would have united to exterminate us, — and, beset as we were, upon all sides, prudence dictated a strict nutrality. Sometimes fifteen or twenty would be struggling for our arms at once, — d strong temptation, as the reader may rest assured, for us to use them in self-defence. Meanwhile the conflict continued with unabated fury. Several attempta were made upon the life of Bull Eagle, but without success. Two were tilled and others wounded, when a final stop was put to tiie further effusion of blood by the withdrawal of the chieftan to his lodge. In about an hour subsequent, he returned for tiie second time, — ^but reason had now resumed her sway, and he came to apologize for his bad ionduo*^ Calling our trader his " very good, liis best friend," he cried for rrief that he had attempted to kill him. He averred that liquor had made iim Sifoolj and said he should never cease to regret the great wicked- •M h« had thought of doing to his " best friend." Ever aft«r this affiur CHEATnfO. 121 he remained our steadfast friend, and presented our trader with six super fine robes, in evidence of the sincerity of his repentance. The foregoing results of this infamous traffic, are only a few of the many instances of like nature I might cite, in proof of its imminent daiiger to those engaged in its prosecution ;— but tliis is not the darkest part of the picture. There are yet scenes in reserve, more bloody and dreadful than those above recited, though not, perhaps, quite as perilous to the whites themselves. They all occurred in the winter of 1842, during the brief period of two months, and resulted immediately from the sale of liquor. I shall not enter into details, but content myself by laying before the reader a mere synopsis of facts. In November, the American Fur Company, from Fort John, sent a quantity of their drugged Uquor to an Indian village, on Chugwater, as a gift, for tiie purpose of preventing the sale of that article by their competi- tors in trade. The consequence was, the poor creatures all got drunk, and a fight ensued, which ended in the death of two head chiefs, Bull Bear and Yellow Lodge, and six of their friends, — besides the wounding of fourteen others, who took part in the affray. Soon after, an affair occurred from the same cause, resulting in the death of three. About the same time, another of like nature took place in the Chyenne village, and three more were killed. Several were also killed, in the interval, in the vicinity of the Chyenne and Missouri rivers, by their friends and companions, while under the madden- ing influence of intoxicating drink, — the precise number is not known. The very last trade at the close of the season, produced its usual deeds of bloodshed and murder. Two Indians were killed, and the person who sold to them the vile article narrowly escaped with his life. 1 might go on still further with the sickening sketch ; but, as enough has already been said to shock the sensibilities of the reader, in endeavoring to afford him some idea of the enormities and untold horrors connected with this criminal traffic, I must forbear. The liquor used in this business, is generally third or fourth proof whiskey, which, after being diluted by a mixture of three parts water, is sold to the Indians at the exorbitant rate of three cups per robe, — ^the cups usually holding about three gills each. But, notwithstanding the above unconscionable price, a large share of the profits residt from the ingenious roguery of those conducting tlie trade. Sometimes the measuring-cup is not more than half full; — tlien, again the act of measuring is little other than mere feint, (the purchaser receiv ing not one fourth the quantity paid for.) When he becomes so intoxicated as to be unable to distinguish the difle^ ence between water and liquor, (a thing not rare,) the former is passed off upon him as tlie genuine article. Another mode of cheating is, by holding the cup m such a manner that the two front fmgers occupy a place upon the inside, and thus save to the trader nearly a gill at each filhng. Some have two cups, (one of the usual size, and the other loss,) whick 11 122 A CHIEF'S DAUGHTER. are so exchanged as to induce the purchaser to beheve he is obtaining a third more than he actually receives ; and others, j^et more cumiing, fill the measure half full of tallow and deal out the liquor from off it, — the witless dupe, not thinking to examine the bottom, supposes he receives the reqm site quantity. No wonder the Indian, with such examples before him, learns to hate the white man, and despise and abhor his boasted civilization. No wonder he locks with an eye of suspicion, ahke upon his religion and his learning, and revolts at the thought of either, as the ingenious devices of scientific rogueiy. He is taught all the white man's vices before he learns any of his virtues. Tlie emissaries of Satan, by their untiring efforts, effectually Btop his ears, blind his eyes, and harden his heart, ere yet the heralds of the Goppel set foot upon his soil, to tell him of tlie blessings of Christianity, and the way to happiness and to heaven. If the Indian is bad, it is because the white man has made him so. Ur>- contaminated by intercourse with the offscourings of civihzation, who come to cheat and despoil hiin of his property, and deprive him of his comforts, you find him quite a difierent being. You find him brave, generous, and hospitable, as v/ell as possessed of many exemplary moral qualities. If he . is a savage, he might, in many respects, prove a safe and worthy teacher to those who pride themselves upon a more -enlightened education. He has a heart instinctive of more genuine good feeling than his white neighbor — a soul of more firm integrity—a spirit of more unyielding inde- pendence. Place the white man in his condition, divested of all the re- straints of law, and unacquainted with the learning and arts of civilized life — surrounded by all the associations of the savage state — and the In- dian, by comparison, will then exhibit, in a more striking light, that innate Buperiority he in reality possesses. No : The Indian should not be despised. He holds weighty claims upon our pity, our compassion, and our respect, — but never should he be despised. Old Bull Tail, of whom I had occasion to speak in a former chapter having forgotten the wholesome sentiments he advanced at the time refer- red to, took it into his head to have a spree. But, as he was not possessed of the means to obtain the wherewith, he adopted a somev/hat novel sub- stitute. He had an only daughter, — and she was handsome — ^the pride of her family and the boast of her village. She was lovely, and all the high qual- ities of a princess were exhibited in her deportment. But, Bull Tail mus drink ; why not give his daughter to the Yellow-hair and receive from Iiim a keg of liquor as a marriage present ? This thought was acted out, and one morning the (fid chief came to us, followed by his daughter, wlio, aware of her father's designs, gave vent to her grief in a flood of tears. As he entered the door, our trader addressed him : Trader. Bull Tail is welcome to the lodge of the Long-knife ; — but, why is his daughter, the pride of his heart, bathed in tears ? It pains m« that one so beautiful should weep. BIDIAN MODE OF COURTSHIP. 123 BuU Tail Chintzille is a foolish girl. Her father loves her, and tliei»- ioie she cries. TVader, The contrary should prove a greater cause for grief! Bull Tail. The Yellow-hair speaks well, and truth only falls from his lips. Trader. How, tlien, can she sorrow ? Bid her speak and tell me, that I may whisper in her ear v/ords of comfort BuU Tail. Nay, paL-face ; but I will tell thee. Bull Tail loves his daughter much — very much ; he loves the Ye] low-hair much ! — he loves them both, very much. The Great Spirit has put the thought into his mind that both might be alike his children ; then would his heart leap for joy at the twice- spoken name of father ! Trader. What do I hear ? I know not the meaning of thy words. BuU Tail. Sure, pale-face, thou art slow to understand ! Bull Tail would give his daughter to the Yellow-hair, — for who like him is so worthy to take her to liis lodge ? Bull Tail has for a long time called the pale- face his brother, and now he would claim the Yellow-hair as his son. Loves he not Chintzille ? Trader. Were I to deny my joy at the words of Bull Tail, my tongue would he ! The Yellow-hair has no wife, and who, like the lovely Chintz- ille, is so worthy that he should take her to his bosom ? How could he ever show his gratitude to her noble father ! Bull Tail. The gift is free, and Bull Tail will be honored in its accept- ance, — his friends wHl all be glad with him. But, that they may bless the Yellow-hair, let him fill up Sie hollow-v/ood * with fire-water, and Bull Tail will take it to his lodge ; — then the maiden shall be thine. Trader. But, Chintzille grieves,— she loves not the Yellow-hair! Bull Tail. Chintzille is foolish. Let the Yellow-hair measure th© fire-water and she shall be thine ! Trader. Nay, but the Yellow-hair may not do this. Chintzille should never be the wife of him she loves not ! The old man continued to plead for some time, in order to bring to a suc- cessful issue the negotiation by which he hoped to "wet his whistle" and gain a son-in-law, — but all to no purpose. Our trader could not be persua- ded to form an alliance so entangling upon any such terms, and the chief- tain left with all the hneaments of disappointment and chagi-in depicted upon his countenance. The mode of marriage prevalent among the mountain and prairie tribes would seem rather strange and somewhat unfair to the better informed of civilized commimities. The lady has httle to say or do in the business. When an Indian takes it into his head to get married and meets with the squaw suiting his fancy, he wastes no time in useless courtsliip, but hastens to her fatlier and de- mands of him to know how much he loves his daughter and what gift of horses will make his heart rejoice in a son-in-law ? The fetlier, after consulting with his daughter and her mother, states tbs ♦Keg. m POLYGAMT. terms. If these prove agreeable to the suitor, he immediately accepts them, and the twain " become one flesh " without further ceremony. In case the woman has no father, her eldest brotlier fills his place,— and if she have neitiier father nor brother, her next nearest relative assumes the responsibility of bestowing her in marriage. If she be the eldest daughter, and has unmarried sisters, the bridegroom becomes equally entitled to them, and is looked upon as their common hus- t)and. The first year succeeding this new relation, the bride's family consider all the horses and other valuables of tlie new-made husband as their cim; the second year he is permitted to retain his personal property for the use of himself and wife ; — but the third year he enjoys an equal right with his relatives to everything in their possession. The decision of parents in the bestowment of a daughter in marriage is generally controlled by the largeness of the amount offered ; thus showing Siat civilized life is not the only condition in which individuals are some- times governed by sordid motives in pronouncing upon questions of such vital importance to tlie welfare of others. The female is the only party upon whom the marriage contract is con- sidered binding. The man may sunder it at any time suiting nis convenience or caprice. He has tlie power, even, to dispose of his wife to another, or, at a mere word, to absolve himself from all obligation to her. In case of the latter, the discarded one returns to her father's lodge, — ready again to test the re- alities of tliis uncertain relationship, whenever an opportunity presents it- •elf meeting with the approval of tliose who assume to make barter of her alTections and person. A woman, to be happy in this state of society, should never indulge in that faiicied passion, pictuted in such glowing colors. by crack-brained poets and novel-writers, called love ; — or, if she has the assurance to do otherwise, it should be of that more versatile and accommodating order, so often exhibited in more refined circles, which may be reclaimed and trans- ferred as interest or circumstances suggest. Her affections are siot at her own disposal, and, to render life tolerable, she must learn to love only as •he is loved, and to love herself above all others. Next to horses, women constitute an Indian's chief wealth. This cir- cumstance not unfrequently results in one individual appropriating to himself six or eight. The squaw is compelled to dress robes and skuis, make moccasins. cure and take care of meat, attend to the horses, procure fire-wcod, and perform sundry other little drudgeries that an Indian will not do. Through her lie becomes possessed of the means of procuring from the whites such articles as his necessities or fancy may require. A plurality of wives with hun, therefore, is more a matter of economy than other 1S5 CHAPTER X. Tahtunga-goniska. — High gaming.— Weur-sena Warkpollo, a itrange Btoiy.-* The Death Song, a tale of love.— Medicine-men.— Extraordinary performance rf Tahtunga-mobellu.— Wonderful feats of jugglery. Among our daily visitors was Tahtunga-egoniska, a head chief of the Brule village. Years had bleached his locks with their taming frosts and taught him ■elf-government. Well disposed as a man, he never became a participant in those disgusting sceneEj of intoxication that almost continually transpir- ed around us. He was a mere looker on — a momlizer ; and, as he witness- ed the blameworthy conduct of his people, an ill-suppressed sigh was fre- quently audible, and the inward workings of regret were plainly defined upon his countenance. Melancholy too had left her traces upon him, and, as he sat day by day in gloomy silence, he seemed the very impersonation of griefl Whenever the throng dispersed for a few moments, Jie would improve the opportunity for conversation with us ; for in the benevolence of his heart he loved the whites, and was greatly pained at the injuries and injustice it was so often their lot to endure. But he had a story of his own to tell ; it was a tale of affliction — a stab at the best feelings of a father's heart ! And, by whom ? By the very whites he loved ! Aye, by the very men whose business it was to degrade his people and ruin them by the contaminating effects of an unhallowed intercourse ! Six montlis had scarcely yet passed since the old chief had been called to mourn his youthful hope, and the pride and joy of his declining years — his first-born son ! And that son had fallen by the hand of the white man ! Still, the sorrow-stricken father harbored no thought of revenge ; he Bought nothing for himself save the locks of that son, tliat he might hang them within his lodge, and gaze upon thern and weep ! His simple tale was so touching in its nature it served to enlist the deep Bympathies of our hearts. We began to regard him with much deference, and felt quite at home in his company. He would frequently entertain us with his anecdotes as occasions suggested, and at such times he invaria- bly proved both agreeable and communicative. The history of his own hfe, too, was far from uninteresting. He wa« 'the only one of the Brule chiefs, then living, wJio had signed the first treaty with the whites, since which he had ever observed its stipulations with scrupulous exactness, and still carefully retained a silver medal be- stowed upon him by the Government agent at that time. Some of his stories were garbed with a strange romance, and thouffli Uiey may appear foreign to truth in many respects, I camiot resist toe temptation of presenting a few of them to the reader. 11* 128 HIGH GAMINa. One day, several Indians had betted largely upon a "game of hand;*** this called forth from the old man the following story : " When a young man I delighted in war, and seldom did a party of cm people visit the enemy that included me not with its number. These scars tell where I stood when arrows flew thick — hastening to spill the blood of the brave. " Rarely did we return empty-handed from the foeman's land — without horses to ride or scalps to dance. Yet, at times we came back like fools, and were ashamed to appear at the soldiers' feasts. " One of these times I well recollect, and I will tell of it to my whit© children, that they also may remember it. " We were proceeding against the Crows, and, like experienced warri- ors, had sent our spy in advance to look for the enemy. Hurrying on, in momentary expectation of a conflict, the siout hearts of our braves were appalled by his return without robe or ainii, and scalpless— and with a face suffused in blood. " This v/as his story : The enemy, aware of our approach, were awaiting us in great numbers. Encountering their scouts, he had been robbed ana scalped, and left f jr dead. In this situation he lay till darkness shut down upon the mountain and the night-breeze gave him strength to meet us and advise our speedy return. "Beliedng the strange tale, we hastened to revisit our lodges, and bo laughed at. " Three moons sped, and we again penetrated the land of the foemen. The scalpless warrior, far in advance of the main party, once more dis- charged the duties of a spy. " This time a whoop of triumph announced the result of his mission, as he made his appearance with the scalps of two, waving from his spear. " He tarried not to relate his adventure, but urged us instantly onward. Following him, we were led to the enemy ; — we fought and were victo- rious. * " Among the slain was one whose scalp was wanting. Who has done this ? asked the wondering braves. But none answered. Our spy, smi- ling, at length broke silence : "'Behind yon hill,' said he, ' a fountain chants melody fit for warriors' ears, — let's to it, that we may drink.' " Following his direction, he led to a silvery spring overhung by crags and shaded by cottonwoods. " ' Drink, warriors,' he exclaimed ; when, withdrawing abruptly, he soon returned, and with the arms and robe which were his own in other days. ' Warriors,' resumed the spy : ' you wondered at my mLshap, and lamented my hard lot v/hen last we visited the Crewman's country ; — you wondered at the condition of one among the recent slain, and asked for a reason ; — and, doubtless, you wonder still more that I now stand before * Ttiifi is a common game with the mountain Indians. It is commenced by one of th* players who encloses a gravel-stone or a bullet in tlie curve of his two hands by pla« cing the palms togellier, then, after sundry tosts and evolutions, suddenly oartinf thera. If the opposing party is shrewd enougli to guess in which hand the s. ne ii retained, he wins ; if not not, he loses. T.iarge amounts are often wagered upoE tb« ronilt of this play. A STRANGE STORY. 127 you bearing the store of which I was deprived ! — and fain you would know in what manner I obtained the hair of two. "'Three times has the night-queen turned her full face to smile upon the prowess of Lacota arms, since at this very spot I met an enemy. We rushed towards each other for the attack. 'Twas then he cried : " ' Are we not both braves ? why should we tight ? When our people meet in the fray, then may we join arras, — till then, a truce.' «' To this I replied, " ' Says Crowman peace ? — then, be there peace.' " ' Thus said, we shook hands and sat down by the fountam. " * Willing to amuse the foe, I gathered a pebbJe and proposed a game of hand. The challenge was accepted, and we played, — first, arrow against arrow, then bow against bow, robe against robe, and scalp against scalp. " 'I was unsuccessful and lost all, — arrow, bow, robe, and scalp. I gave up all, but with the extorted promise that we should here meet again for another trial of skill. " ' True to the word, we did meet again. We played, and this time, the Good Spirit showed me kindness. " ' Winning back aiTows, bow and robe, I staked them all against the lost scalp. The game was a close one ; but again the Good Spirit favored me, and I won. " ' Crewman,' said I, * scalp against scalp.' " ' The banter was accepted, and the play continued. He lost, and I, with my winnings, arose to leave. " ' Warrior,' exclaimed the luckless player, * meet me in the fight, that we may try tlie game of arms,' " ' Thy words please me,' I answered. ' Will the Crowman name the place ?' " ' A valley lies beyond this hill,— there my people await their enemies, and there let me hope to see you with them.' '* ' To that place I led you. We fought and conquered. My opponent at play was among the slain. Need I tell you who took his scalp ?' " The old man seemed to take pleasure in acquainting us with the man- ners and customs of liis people, and was ever ready to assign a reason for any of them, whenever such existed. He repeated to us the names of all the streams, mountains, and prominent localities of the country, and explained the causes of their several christenings. Some thirty miles lo the westward of us, flowed a large creek, called by the Indians, " Weur-sena Warlipollo," or Old Woman's creek. This •tream is an affluent of the Chyenne river, and takes its rise at the base of a mountain bearing the same name. The mountain is an object of great veneration with the Sioux, who rarely enter into its neigliborhood without bestowing upon it a present of meat. The old man entertained us with the following explanation of a custom so singular : " My grandfather told me a tale he had received from the old men before kiira, and it is a strange one. " Many ages past bring us back to the time when the La^otas lived ia a country far above the sun of winter.* *TheQorUi. 1^8 A STRANGE STORY. " Here, then, the Shoshone reared his white lodge, and scoured the prairies in pursuit of game ; while, as yet. the whole country abounded with Vdkes and ponds of water, and only the highlands and mountains were left for the buffalo and deer. " But years passed on, — the mountains and highlands continued to prey upon the waters, and the creeks and rivers gradually reduced the limits oi their possessions. " Years again fled. The Shoshones, attracted by some better region, fai away, or driven from their homes by the hostile encroachments of othei tribes, gave place to the Scarred-arms.* " In the course of generations, the Lacotas and the Scarred-arms war red with each other ; they fouglit with varied success for many years. " Once a party of the Lacotas penenetrated into the heart of the enemy's country ; on their return, they fell into an ambuscade, and ordy six of thera were left to tell the fate of their companions. " Hotly pursued by the ScaiTed-arms, they sought refuge in a mountain. There an obscure passage led to a recess in the mountain's side, which they entered, and were pleased to find within it a gTavelly floor, and a pure fountain of sweet water. " Tempted by the conveniences and security of the place, they thought to remain for a few days that they might recover their strength. A small fire was built accordingly, and the six braves seated tliemselves around it recounting to each other their perils and dangerous exploits, and planning some mode of extrication from their present difficulties. " Thus busied, a rustling noise from a dark corner of the apartment startled them, — but still more were they aroused by the half-disclosed form of a person mo\ ing in the distance. Words gave place to silence, as the warriors, seizing tiieir arms, a,waited the feared assault. But the figure, on advancing nearer, proved that of a feeble old woman, who addressed the wondering group in their own language. " ' Children,' said she, * you have been against the Scarred-arms, — ^you have fouglit them, — and oi a strong party, you alone survive. I know it all. ♦* * You seek in my lodge a refuge from your pursuers, — and the sound of your voices with the heat of your council-fire has disturbed my rest and awoke me f. om a long, long trance. "'Your looks enquire my story. " ' Many ages have gone, (for days, moons, seasons, and ages are painted before me as they pass,) since the Shoshones, who hved where now live the Scarred-arms, visited the lodges of the Lacotas, and bade tlie prairie drink the blood of slaughtered braves. I was their captive, and witli the scalps of the slain I was taken from the graves of my people, many days travel. *' * The Shoshone brought me to this country, when yet the buffalo grazed ■pen the hills and mountains, only ; for tlie valleys and plains were the home of waters. *" Living with tlie Shoshone, I was not happy. I thought of my peo- • Chyennes. The name owes its origin to the practice of scarring ths left aim wise yet adhered to by the males of that nation. A STRANGE STORY. 12* pie, with all tliose dear to me, and prayed the Good Spirit that I might again behold them ere my passage to the deatli-latid. " ♦ I fled, hoping to reach the home of my birth ;— but age had enfeebled me, and being pursued, I sought refuge in this cave. Here, having passed a night and a day in earnest communion with the Big Medicine,— a strange feeUng came upon me. I slumbered, in a dreamy state of consciousnest, from then till now. " * But your looks again ask, who are the Shoshones ? — ^what became of them ? And from whence were the Scarred-arms V " * The Lacotas will soon know the Shoshones, and bring from their lodges many scalps and medicine-dogs. Divided into two tribes, that nation long since sought home in other lands. One crossed tlie snow- hills towards tiie sun-setting ;— the Lacotas shall visit them, and avenge tJie blood and wrongs of ages. The other journeyed far away towards the eun of winter, and now live to the leftward of the places where the His- Danola builds his earth-lodge.* " ' Then came the Scarred-arms from a far off country, a land of much snow and cold. Pleased with the thickly tenanted hunting grounds that here met them, they stopped for the chase, and, by a possession through successive generations, have learned to consider these grounds as their own. But they are not theirs. " ' The Great Spirit gives them to the Lacotas, and they shall inhabit the >and of their daughter's captivity. " ' Why wait ye here ? Go and avenge the blood of your comrades upon tlie Scarred-arms. They even now light their camp-fire by the stream at the mountain's base. Fear not, — their scalps are yours ! Then return ye to my people, that ye may come and receive your inheri- tance. " ' Haste ye, that I may die. And, oh Warkantunga ! inasmuch as thou hast answered the prayer of thine handmaid, and shown to me the faces of my people, take me from hence.' " The awe-struck warriors withdrew. They found the enemy encamped at the foot of the mountain. They attacked him and were victorious ;— thirty-five scalps were the trophies of their success. " On reaching their homes the strange adventure excited the astonish- ment of the wiiole nation. The Scarred-arms were attacked by our war- riors, thus nerved with the hope of triumph, and were eventually driven from the country now possessed by the Locotas as their own. ** The grateful braves soon sought out the mountain, to do reverence to the medicine-woman who had told them so many good things. A niche in the mountain-side, from v/hence issued a sparkling streamlet, told their p.a^e of refuge ; but the cave and the woman alike had disappeared. *'Each successive season do our warriors visit the Shoshones for scalps and medicine-dogS; — and each of our braves, as he passes the Old Woman's * It is a Biiigular fact, that tlie Cuinanches and Snakes, (Shoshones,) though living nearly a thousand nules distant from each other, with hostile tribes intervening, tpe&k precisely the same language, and call theraselvca by the same general n&ma. They have lost all tradition, however, of having formed one nation, in any previoui •9^ 180 THE DEATH SONG. mountain, fails not to bestow upon it his tribute of veneration, or quenfli his thirst from the creek that bears her name." A place on White river — where the stream pours its full force against the base of a lofty peak, and the powerful attrition of its wateis has formed a rocky precipice of several hundred feet in height — is known as " The Death Song." The singularity of this name led me to enquire the reasons which prompted its bestowment. Ever ready to answer questions of this nature, the old chief related the following story : " Once, on a time, the Oglallas and Burnt-thighs held their encampmen upon the river, opposite to the high point of which my son enquires. While there, a dog-soldier* of the Burnt-thighs received the offer of six horses from an Oglalla brave, for his only daughter — a sweet flower — such an one as oft pierces the warrior's heart v.ith her charms, when the arrows of ene- mies fall harmless at his feet. The offer was quickly accepted — for the dog-soldier was poor. " When Chischille (for that was the name of the fair one) heard she was to become the wife of the Oglalla, she cried for grief, — and so cfbstinate was her resistance, the marriage was deferred for several days on that account. "But, why did Chischille grieve? She had looked upon a handsome warrior of her own village, and she loved him. She forgot her duty, as a daughter, to love only at her father's bidding. Her heart had been playing truant and had lost itself in the labyrintlis of girlish fancy. Bitter were the fruits of that presumption. ** Chischille, in the interval, contrived to meet the one of her choice, and the two fled towards a distant village, there to live in the undisturbed en- joyment of their youthful loves. " But, alas, for them I They were pursued, and overtaken. The life of the young warrior atoned for his temerity, — while Chischille was cruelly beaten and brought back to her father's lodge. " The Oglalla had already paid the purchase price, and, ere the morrow's sunset, was to receive his fair prize at the hand of the dog-soldier. " Chischille, arising v.ith the dawn, fresh-plaited her hair, and arraying herself in her proudest attire, left the lodge. No one thought strange at seeing her thus gaily dressed for her wedding day, and, as she tripped along, many a warrior's heart beat high and loud at the thought that a creature so lovely was to become the bride of another. " Directing her course to tlie river, she crossed it and ascended the high peak upon tiie opposite side. There, seating herself upon the utmost verge of the precipice, she gazed calmly from its dizzy height. " In her lofty station, with her raven locks streaming in the wii^ds, and the matchlei'S beauty of her person so enchantingly exposed to vifew she seemed more like a behig of the Spirit-Land than aught human. Tha sweetest prairie-flov/er was ne'er half so lovely. " Her strange attitude arrested the eyes of all. " *Why sits she there ? — she will fall and be dashed to pieces !' was tht general cry. ' But hsten — she sings !' * This is the title of those selected to superintend tho civil afl&irs of a villa{{a> ASTONISHING FEATS OF JUGGLERY. 131 *** Why should I stay, — ^he is gone. Light of my eyes, — joy of mj soul, — show me thy dwelling ! — 'Tis not here, — 'tis far away in the Spin! Land. Thither he is gone. Why should I stay ? Let me go !' " * Hear you that ?' said one. • She sings her death song. She will throw herself from the clifl*!' "At this, a dozen warriors, headed by him who claimed her hand, started to rescue the sweet singer from intended self-destruction. ** Again she chants : ** * Spirit of Death, set me free ! Dreary is earth. Joyless is time. Heart, thou art desolate ! Wed tliee another ? Nay. Death is thy husband ! Farewell, oh sun ! Vain is your light. Farewell, oh earth ! Vain are your plains, your flowers, your grassy dales, your purling streams, and shady gTOves ! I loved you once, — but now no longer love ! Taste- less are your sweets, —cheerless your pleasures ! Thee I woo, kind Death! Wahuspa calls me hence. In life we were one. We'll bask together in the Spirit Land. Who shall sunder there ? Short is my pass to thee. Wahuspa, I come !' " Upon this she threw herself forward, as the warriors grasped at her ; but, leaving her robe in their hands, she plunged headlong and was dashed to pieces among the rocks below !* " E'er since, the young warrior sighs as he beholds this peak, and thinks of the maiden's death song." Conversing upon the subject of medicine-men, he was asked, why those individuals are so highly esteemed by his people ? To this he replied : " These men are regarded as the peculiar favorites of the Great Spirit, to whom is imparted a more than ordinary share of His power and wisdom. We respect them, therefore, in proportion to the abilities they receive, even as we reverence the Great Spirit." Here the question was proposed, how are their abiUties above those of others ? *' The Yellow-hair counts as his soldier Tahtunga-mobellu, — a man of strong medicine. To him the Great Spirit has imparted the power of heal- ing, by imbibing, at pleasure, the diseases of the sick, and discharging them from his eyes and nose in the form of live snakes.f " On a time, years past, our young men went to the Pav^mees and came back crying; for sixteen slain of their number were left to grace an enemy's triumph. " It was winter, and the moans of men and maidens mingled with the howling winds. Sorrow beclouded every brow, and brave looked upon brave as if to enquire, ' Who shall wipe out this disgrace ?' Then it was a medicine-chief stood up, and his words were : ** * Be it for me to consult the Good Spirit.' • A tale which went the rounds oi the public prints, several years since, entitled the *' Maiden's Leap," affords a seeming coincidence in the mode of suicide ; but, bf comparing the two, the reader will observe a broad dissimilarity of detail. In pen Ding the above I was guided solely by the leading incidents as related in my heaiingi t Tahtunga^mobellu receives the averment of all his villagera in proof of thb ■injigttMtt. IM THE MEDICnCE-MAlf . ** So saying, he entered his lodge alone, nor suffered any to come new during the long fast that followed. Darkness had closed four times upon the prairie, and the sun again hastened to hide behind the mountam peaks, when, calling the young men to him, the medicine-man said : «* Fetch me now meat and water, with a new robe, and bid my people come near, that they may know the words that I would speak.' " The obedient braves made haste and did as bidden. Folding the robe, he sat upon it and partook of the refreshments placed before him. After eating he arose, and six large snakes, crawling from tlie robe one after another, sprang to his shoulder, and, whispering in his ear, vanished from eight. The last snake had just told his message v/hen the chief began : "* The Good Spirit wills it, that we remove from hence. Three moons being dead, let three hundred warriors return, and their hearts shall be made glad with medicine-dogs and the scalps of enemies.' "The village left, and, at the time appointed, the warriors returned. They met the enemy, — fought, and were victorious. Sixty-three scalps and one hundred medicine-dogs wore the fruits of their success." Before dismissing tiie subject, many other particulars were cited in proof of the extraordinary abilities of different medicine-men, but the above being the most remarkable, I have thought proper to pass over the remainder in silence. Note. — A.n account, still more wonderful than either of the foregoing, was eubao- quently narrated in my Jiearing, while among the Arapaho Indians; and, without vouching for the truth of all its pariicuJars, i am unwilling to withhold it from th« reader. The performance aUudcd to is said to have occurred, some three years since, in the presence of the whole Arapaho village, mcredible as it may seem. Tlie actor was a kiccaree by nation, and is well known to the mountain traders. In the centre of a large circle of men, women, and children, stood the subject of the appended sketch, stripped to the waist, as the gunner's mark. A shot perforated Ms body with a bullet, whic h entered at the chest and emerged from the opposite side. He instantly fell, and tlie blood flowing in streams dyed the grass where he lay, and everything seemed to prefigure the reality of death. While in this condition, Ms wife approached and besprinkled Ms face with water; Boon after which he arose, as from a slumber — the blood still pouring from Mm. Beplastering his wound with mud before and behind, the blood ceaiped to flow, when he commenced yawmng and stretching ; in a few nunuies the plaster was removed by a pass of the hand, and neither blood, nor womid, nor the sign of a scratch or scai appeared ! 'iliere stood the self- restored medicine-man, before the wondering throng alive and well, and in all the pride of his strength! He then brought Ms naked son into the ring, a lad of some eight years, and, stand ing at a distance of several yards, bow in hand, he pierced him through and through, firom diaphragm to vertebrae, at three successive shots'. The boy fell dead, to every appearance, and the tMck blood freely coursed from hi» wounds. The performer then clasped the body in Ids anns and bore it around the ring for the inspection of all, three times in succession. Upon this he breathed into Ms mouth and nostrils, and, aft( r suffusing his face witii water and covering his wounds with a mud piaster, he commenced brief manipulations upon his stomach, which soon ended in a complete recovery, nor left a f^ingle trace of injuiy about him. Both of these ftiats, if performed as said, can scarcely admit the possibility of trick •r Blight of hand, and must stand as the most astoMshing instances of iugglery en rMord. Aif Indian CONJUEdR. — Pag& !»}. U 115 CHAPTER XL Food fbr horses. — Squaws and their perfonnances. — Dogs aiid dog-meat.— Reltim tf Fort. — Starvation.— Travel by guess.— Death from drinking.— Medicine-making.— A burial. — Little Lodge and the French trader. — A speech in council.— Journey tf White river.— High winds and deep snow. — Intense sufferings and painful results. A LARGE grove of Cottonwood near us, day after day was graced by groups of village squaws, armed with axes, for the procurement of horse food. The bark of this tree is eaten freely by both horses and mules, and answers well as a substitute for corn or oats. Animals will thrive upon it in a remarkable manner, and even in the summer months they prefer it to grass. The bark of red elm is also used for the same purpose. The operations of the squaws at such times contributed greatly to our amusement Climbing fearlessly to the topmost branch of the highest tree, they would there lop off the surrounding boughs, with as much appa- rent ease as though footed upon terra firma. And then, the enormous loads they would carry, lashed together with cords and slung to their backs, were enough to make a giant stagger. Dogs, harnessed to travees, had their part to perform, and ofttimes were they a source of vexation to tlieir mistresses. A squaw, trudging along under a full donkey-load of Cottonwood, and followed by a squad of half-naked children, presented a spectacle quite in- teresting ; but this was rendered rather comical, withal, when two or three draught-dogs with their heavy-laden travees reluctantly brought up the rear — every now and then lying down for weariness, or squatting to loll and gaze at their companions. Now, she coaxes and caresses to urge them forward — they still delay. Then she turns briskly towards them with a stick, — get out, dogs !— " Yierh ! Warktashne ceicha," cries tlie squaw, accompanying her denun- ciation with blows, and away go the yelping troop as fast as legs can carry them. Dogs are the necessary appendage of every Indian lodge, and generally form an equal portion of the village population. They present almost all the different varieties of the canine species, from the wolf to the spaniel, and from the spaniel to the hairless dog of Africa. The wolf, however, is predominant, and, taken together, they more assimilate a gang of wolvea than anything else. Indeed, the different varieties of prairie wolves hold familiar intercourse with the village dogs, and associate with them on friendly terms. The species used for draught, is a large, stout-built, wolfish- looking creature, of the Exquimaux breed. Trained to his duties in early life, he is generally both submissive and tractable. The drudgery of a squaw, which is at all times onerous, without his ready aid would prove past ondunuice. 136 lECDICINB-MAKirfO. But these dogs are also useful in another respect. Their flesh fur- Bifhes an article highly esteemed foi- food, and which almost invariably graces the soldiers' feast and every other scene of coaviviaiity. However much the squamishness of the reader may revolt at the suggestion, justice impels rae to say, the flesh oi: a fat Indian dog, suitably cooked, is not infe- rior to fresh pork ; and, by placing side by side select paiis of the two, it would be no easy task even for a good judge to toll the difference, ty either looks or taste, unless he were previously informed. Towards the last of January, buffalo having left the vicinity, the Indiaas, as a necessary consequence, were compelled to move. A great scarcity of provisions prevailed among them, and we ourselves were scarcely better oflT than they. Our stock in hand was nearly exhausted, and an abandonment of the post became absolutely neces.sary, — a thing, however, which could not be performed without a fresh supply of horses and cattle from Fort Platte. For this purpose, I volunteered my services, and, accompanied by two engages, was promptly under way. A few hours' ride broughl us to the head of White river, where, con- suming at a meal our scanty eatables, from tliat onward we were left en tirely destitute. This was the first occasion subjecting me to tlie pains of hunger for so long a time. The second day I experienced the greatest annoyance, and then ic was I felt some of the realities of starvation. The third day, how- ever, I awoke in tlie morning scarcely thinking of breakfast. In fact, my appetite seemed quite passive, and the only sensation I felt was a kind of weakness and lassitude, evincing the lack of proper nourish- ment. The morning was cloudy and threatening. Soon after leaving camp, snow began to fall, thick and fast. TJie day proved so dark, objects were indiscernible at the distance of a hundred yards in advance. Travelhng, as we were, over a trackless prairie, with nothing to guide us but the wind and the position of the grass, it was by the merest accident we reached our destination a few minutes before nightfall. Our sudden appearance was the occasion of general surprise to the Port hands, and, after a brief explanation, we began to make amends for previous abstinence. At first, a few mouthfuls sufficed, — but soon I again felt hungry and could be satisfied only with a double quantity, — in an equally short time my stomach demanded a still further supply, and, by the next day, hunger became so keen it seemed almost insatiable. An interval of three or four weeks was requisite before it assumed its wonted tone. During our stay here, an Indian family, occupying one of the^ Fort rooms, indulged themselves in a drunken spree. Ha\ang procured a quantity of the Ame-ican Fur Company's liquor, the effects of their lavish potations soon became manifest to all within hearing distance. But the din of drunken revelry erelong assumed the wail of mourning and sorrow. Hearing the strange commotion, I entered the room to ascertain tba ABURIAl^ 157 eanse. There lay, helpless upon tlie floor, and apparently at the point of death, a squaw ol some eighteen years ; — she, in her eagerness, had swal- lowed nearly a pint of the vile stuff, undiluted, and now experienced its dreadful consequences. But most conspicuous in the throng was a large, obese, cross-eyed Indiai^ earnestly engaged in his medicine-performances for her recovery. A breech-cloth was his sole garb, as, with eyes half strained from their sockets and volving in a strange unearthly manner, he stood, first upon one foot and then upon the otlier, alternately — then, stamping the floor as if to crush it through, and meanwhile, grunting, screeching, and bellowing, and beating his breast or the wall with hie clenched fists, — then, witii iSialed breath, swelling like a puff"-b8Jl, he would bend over his patient and apply Bugescents to her mouth, throat and breast. This done, sundry ejections of sahva prepared his mouth for the recep- tion of an ample draught of water, with which he bespatted her face and forehead. Bat yet, all these extraordinary eflbrts failed to produce their designed efiect. The poor squaw gi*ew \v^eaker, and her breathing became fainter and more difficult. Some powerful restomtive must be adopted, or she will soon be beyond the reach of medicine, — so thought the officiating doctor ; or, at least, his succeeding antics indicated tliat such were the cogitations of his mind. Standing for a minute or two in the attitude of reflection, an idea stuck him. Ah, he has it now ! This cannot fail. Snatching a butcher-knife and hastening with it to the fire, he heats the point to redness upon the coals, — then balancing it between his teeth, at a toss he flings it vaulting above his head and backward upon the floor,— then, re-catching it, he goes tlu-ough the performance a second and a third time. Thus premised, he addresses himself with threefold energy to the gro- tesque and uncouth manoeuvres before described. If he had stamped hia feet, he now stamps them with a determination hitherto unknown ; — if he had thumped his breast and beat the walls, he now thumps and beats as if each blow were intended to prostrate the object against which it was directed, — if he had grunted, screeched, and bellowed, he now grunts, screeches, bellows, and yells, till the very room quakes with tlie reverberations of demoniac noise ; — if he had gagged, piiifed, and swelled, he now gags, puff's, and swells, as if he would explode from the potency of his extraor- dinary inflations. Then, with an air of confidence^ he hies to his patient and commences a process of manipulation from her breast downwards, and reverse, — and then again he repeats his previous operations, witli scrnpulous exactness and unsparing effort, in all their varie i minutiae. But, alas for the medicine-man ! — the squaw died, despite the omnipo- tence of his skill ! Then was enacted another such a scene of piteous wailing, as Indians alone have in requisition, as vent for their grief. After the usual preliminaries, the corpse of the deceased was placed «pon a scaffold beside that of Susu-ceicha, the old chief of whom I hare •poken in a former chapter. Each member of the bereaved family depo» 12* 138 SPEECH OF LTTTLE LODGE. ited a tuft of hair in the sack containing the meat and trinkets placet beneath her head. A smooth piece of cottonwood slab was then affixed t< the scaffoldj upon which were traced, in vermilion, certain quadrangula] characters of unknown meaning, — answering well to the idea of ai inscription of name and age. A difficulty occurred about this time between a trader of the American Fur Company and an Oglalla chief, known as Little Lodge. The latter had become crazed by Hquor, and, being rather turbulent, was put out of the Fort. But, effecting a re-entrance, he again proved equallj annoying. The trader then commenced quarrelling with him, and under, took to seize his arms. This the Indian resisted, when the trader discharg- ed a pistol at him, but missed his object. Here was a deadly affront, thai blood alone could wipe away. With great difficulty, the Indian was finally disarmed and bound. He was thus secured till the next day, when he was liberated ; — still, however, he muttered threats of revenge. Two or three weeks subsequently, Little Lodge was present at a soldiers' feast, and the question of war with th^ Americans was a prominent sub> ject of consideration. Several speeches were made, both for and against it ; and, though the prevailing sentiment seemed to be of an adverse kind, it scarcely required a half-dozen words to turn the scale upon either side. Little Lodge arose to address the council, and the friends of the whites, knowing the vengeful spirit that yet rankled in his bosom at the reraem- brance of his recent injuries, began to fear for the contmuance of peace. Contrary to the universal expectation, he contended for its maintenance. " But," said he, " Little Lodge has grievances of his own, and they call foi redress. " There is one among the pale-faces whose blood must wash away the foul blot that rests upon the name of Little Lodge. I know him well. He is not a Long-knife. The Long-knives are dl the friends of Little Lodge. Let the Lacota take them by the hand whenever he meets them upon the prairie. It is good that he do so. They are very many and ex- ceedingly rich. Their country is a large one, and far away towards the Bunrising. They, too, are strong for war. They have big hearts and strong, and they are very good to 3ie red man. They bring to him many good things ; why, then, should the Lacota hate the Long-knife ? " Do my brothers ask who it is of the pale-faces the Little Lodge would remove from the light of day ? Knowf then, he is not of the Long-knives, — he is of the Warceichas, (Frenchmen.) The Warceichas are not Long- knives ! " And, do my brothers ask, who are the Warceichas ? " Aye, who are they',? Little Lodge cannot tell ; — who of all the Laco- tas can ? Who ever heard of the country of these men ? No one. They have no country, — they are no people. They are are as the wandering dogs * that infest our hunting grounds and prey upon the game formed by the Good Spirit for the red man's sustenance. They steal into the land of * Cliimka-monet, or travtlling dogs, is the name applied by these Indians to wd^vc INTENSE SUFFERING. 139 the red man, and sneak around from place to place ; — for they hare no home ; they have no country ; they are no people ! " One of these it was who bade the medicine-iron speak its death-word to Little Lodge, and sought to spill the blood of a Lacota brave, after that he had made him a fool by means of his thickened* fire-water! " Should Little Lodge fall by the hand of the Warceicha ? He might fall by the hand of a Long-knife, and the nation would honor his memory, — but never, should the Warceicha bring him low ! " Then, is it not good that Little Lodge should be avenged upon this 'ost dog— this outcast of the world — that the whelps of a motherless breed may cease to insult and wrong the Lacotas? Which of all my brothers will say nay ?" The address was received in silence, — no one presuming to oppose an answer to its sentiments. Wliether the speaker executed his threats of vengeance against the offending trader, I am yet unadvised. Having remained two nights and a day at Fort Platte, we again started for White river, taking with us* three yoke of oxen and several horses, one of which was laden with dried meat. The snow greatly retarded our progress from the first, and so obscured the trail we were compelled to travel mostly by guess. The sun, too, was shut oiit by a tenebrous atmosphere, and we could judge of our proper course only by observing the movements of the clouds,! with the general range of the hills and ravines, or incUnation of the grass. The broad expanse of unbroken snow lying from Rawhide to L'eau-qui- court, brought a chill tremor with the thought of crossing it Yet, go we must ! It was no time to falter when the fate of others, perhaps, depend- ed upon our prompt advance. But the effort was no child's play. If we had experienced a tedious time during a former journey, what could we expect now ? The whole interval of thirty miles was covered with snow, that grew deeper and deep- er as we proceeded. Every hollow and ravine was filled, and the route otherwise seriously impeded by huge drifts and embankments. We were frequently compelled to break foot-paths for our animals, and ever and anon pull them by main strength from the deep pitfalls into which tliey would plunge and become almost lost to view. In this manner our progress was slow, — the average depth through which we waded being out little less than two feet. The rising of a fierce head wind, piercing as the blasts of Nova Zem- bla, drove the snow into our faces with mad fury and added immeasurably to our suflTerings. ♦ Allusion is here made to the drugged liquor supposed to have been palmed upon nim by the trader. t The idea of directing our course by the movements of the clouds is doubtless a novel suggestion to most readers ; but its philosophy will be readily comprehended by a bare mention of the fact, that the winds of these regions almost invariably blow from a west-southwest pomt ; and, as they are usually high, it is no very extraordi- nary performance to calculate the bearing of north or south, oven in the most ' * WMtba» 140 A HORRIBLE CONDITION. . In this manner night shut down upon us, while yet far distant from uxy camping-place. And, such a night ! Oh, storms and deadly v\ inter, ku. and fierce ! how swept ye " through the darkened sky," and with your awful howlings rendered " the savage wilderness more wild !" The creeping cold on every nerve played freely, in haste to sting our vitals, and lay us each along the snows a stiffen'd corse, Stretch 'd out and bleacliing in the northern blast !" The impress of this event can never be effaced from my mind. t was midnight ere we arrived at the limberless L'eau-qui-court and struck camp. Our animals needed water, but we had neitlier axe or tomahawk to cut through the thick ice wit'a which the creek was coated. As a lemedy for this lack, all three of us advanced upon it, and, by our united efforts at jumping, caused a lengthy fissure with gentle escarpments to- wards each shore, that left midway an ample pool. Having driven the cattle to this, in their clumsy movements upon the ice, two of them fell, and, sliding down the inclined plain, lay struggling in the freezing water, unable to rise. Our only resort was to drag them to the shore by main strength ; for, left in their ihen condition, they must have frozen to death in a very short time. Here commenced a series of pulling and wrenching, that, in our chilled and exhausted state, we were ill-prepared to endure. For awhile our eflbrts proved vain. A backward-shde succeeded each headway-pull, and vexed us with useless toil. Thus we worried for nearly three hours in water knee-deep ! At length, having procured a rope and fastened one end to their horns and the other around a pointed rock upon the shore, and gathering the slack at each successive thrust, we finally succeeded in placing them both, one after the other, upon dry land. But, now we v.-ere in a thrice sorry plight. Not a stick of vv^ood could be raised, far or near, of which to build a fire, and hois de vaclie, the great substitute of the prairies, was too deeply covered vv^ith snow for procure- ment. Our clothes, wet to the waist, were frozen upon us, and the merci- less wind, with stinging keenness, })ierced us through at every breath, and Btood us forth as living monuments of ice ! Could men of iron endure such incomprehensible hardships — such in- expressible sufferings ? Yet we sur^^ved them all ! Spreading a few robes upon the snow, we lay down for sleep, dinnerless and supperless. I v/as now seized with a chili, which lasted for two hours or more ; and so violent were its actions I could scarcely keep the covering upon me. My companions, however, though not similarly afflicted, were worse off than myself One had his hands and ears frozen, and the other his hands and feet, — the painful consequences of which, as the frost began to yield to the influence of generated warmth, were too apparent in their groans and writhin^s. Morning at length came, and the sun arose bright and clear TIm H0E8E AITACKED BY WOLVES. - P«?e "3. 13 HORSES DETOURED BY WOLVES. 1^ winds had ceased their ragings, and a clement atmosphere seemed pouring upon us the balm of sympathy for miseries so recently endured. But their direful effects were not thus easily eradicated. The feet of ono poor fellow were so badly frozen, it was three months before he entirely recovered ; while another lost a portion of one of his ears. A« for myself, a severe cold settled in my teeth, producing an intensely painful ach« and swoollen face, that continued for eight or ten days. It seems almost miraculous that we should have escaped so easily, aiid often, even after so long an interval, I shudder at the recollection of this anguishing scene. Two days subsequently we reached our destination, and foond all thiofi •ntty much in statu quo. CHAPTER XII. 4aother drunken spree.-^Horses devoured by wolves. — An upset— A blowing up.— Daring feat of wolves.— A girl offered for liquor.— Winter on the Platte.— Boal bmlding.— Hunting expedition.— Journey up the Platte. — Island camp. — Narrow ••cape.— Snow storm —Warm Spring.— Pass of the Platte into the prairies.— A valley. — Bitter Cottonwood.— Indian forts. — Wild fruit. — Root-digging.*~Cherry tea and its uses.— Geology of the country.— Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and puritf of atmosphere.— Horse-shoe creek.— A panther. — Prairie dogs and their peculiar- OuB intended evacuation of the post waa posponed till the week follow- ing, and, meanwhile, the few customers, that still hung on, were carefiil to improve the passing opportunity of steeping their senses in liquor. Another general drunken frohc was the consequence, ending as naoal in a %ht and still furtlier attempts upon the life of our trader. &x)n after this, our catalogue of disasters was increased by the death of two horses, which fell a prey to wolves. The case was an aggravated one, and provoking in the extreme. Both of them were " buffalo horses," and the fleetest and most valuable in our Dossession, — ^in fact, they were the only ones of which we ventured to boaat We had Dthers of little woitli, so poor and feeble they could oppose none reeifltance to magpies,* and much less to the rapacity of wolves. But, no. These blood-thirsty depredators, desirous of a feast of fat things, were determined to have it, reckless of cost, — and, the encrimsoned tracks, coursing the snowy plain in every direction where passed the swift *The magpie of the mountains is the torment of all sore-baeked boiiM. paftlealarty iorinff the wmter season. Dospite oppoeitioa it will feed spoo thtir ddniwi iiiii, •Sn to tb0 vwT boMs. 144 BOAT BUILDING. chargers m vain eSbri to escape, proved that they won their supper at an enonnous expense of leg-wear. Feb. Ath. All things being in readiness, we bade farewell to winter- quarters, and commenced our journey. Crossing the river soon after, on ascending the opposite bank, a cart up- set and deposited its contents in the water. The load, consisting of robes and powder, became thoroughly saturated, and we were employed a full hour in fishing it out. The stream being waist-deep and filled with floating ice, amid which we were forced to plunge, our task was far from a pleasant one. The freight needed drying, and we were detained two days for that pur- pose. Meanwhile the drenched powder was subjected to the experiments of one of our engages. Having spread it to dry, he was carelessly bend- ing over it, when a spark from the camp-fire struck the ready ignitible ; a sprightly flash, enveloping the luckless wight in a sheet or flame, told the instant result Springing to his feet, he exclaimed : " Bless my stars ! That's what I call regular blowing up .'" " Aye, aye, my lad," says one. " You was always a bright youth, — but never before did you appear half so brilliant. 'Tis a fact, or I'm a liar !" Resuming our course, the second night following was passed at a pool of water between L'eau-qui-court and Rawhide. Here, having placed my shoes under my head for better security, I slept soundly till morning. Rising at an early hour, I turned for them, but one was missing, and, after searching far and near, it could not be found. The mystery of its disappearance, however, was fully solved by the nu- merous wolf tracks that appeared on all sides ; — some straggling marauder had stolen it during the night, and quietly deposited it in his empty stomach as the substitute for an early breakfast. Our camp at Rawhide was beset with a throng of Indians from an adjoin- ing village, who, as usual, were loudly clamorous and importunate for liquor. A beautiful young squaw was brought in, to exchange for that article. However, their solicitations were of no avail and their vitiated appetites went unappeased. On tlie 12th of February we reached the Fort, and thus ended our disas- trous and eventful expedition. Winter in the neighborhood of the Platte had been remarkably mild, and at no time during the season had the snow remained upon the ground to exceed a day. Vegetation, even thus early, was beginning to put forth, and bring to view the beauty and loveliness of spring. Preparations were already on foot for building a Imt for the transporta- tion of furs to the States by way of the river, and, at the solicitation of of the company's agent, I reluctantly consented to take charge of it during tlie voyage, — thus deferring, for the present, my design of visiting Oregon. The timber used in its construction was procured firom the neighboring pine hills, and prepared by a laborious process of hand, with tbe aid of a pit-saw. The ribs and other timber were obtained from an ash grove, a few A PETTi LOOKING SET. 145 miles above the Fort, and three men were busily engaged in putting all things in readiness for the expected spring rise — an event which seldom occurs before the I5th*cf May. The winter's trade having closed, an interval of nearly three months' leisure followed, which resulted in a hunting expedition that included my self with six others. Anxious to explore the mountains, we set our faces westward ; but, owing to the reported closeness of game en route^ very little provisions were taken with other necessaries. Keeping the river bottom by a rocky ridge for some ten miles, oar course led through several beautiful groves and broad stretches of rich alluvial soil, that presented an encouraging prospect to agriculturists. After a few hours' ride we came to a point at which the stream sweeps round the ridge's base, causing a vertical wall of lias and sandstone nearly one hun- dred and fifty feet high. Abandoning tlie river bottom at this place, we ascended to the high prairie on the left, where an interesting plateau greeted us, extending far away to the south and west, till it became lost in the neighboring moun- tains. • Continuing on a short distance, we again struck the river, at a small opening between two hills, and made camp in a grove of willows. Opposite this place is a large heavily wooded island, of a blueish loam, upon a subtratum of fossiliferous limestone. Above and bslow are lofty walls of limestone and ferrugiuous rock, that, in many places, overhang the sweeping waters at their base, and form roof- age beneath v/hich swarms of prairie swallows are wont to raise their annual broods. Consuming our scanty supply of provisions at a single meal, each soon disposed of himself for the night. A mild atmosphere invited to reposa ; and, enwrapped in a single robe, my troubles were speedily forgotten in a quiet slumber. But during the succeeding interval, a change came over the spirit of my dream, I was suddenly aroused by the crash of a huge tree, that fell across my bed, and only a providential curve arching upwards, had saved me from instant death ! "Hurra, for me!" I exclaimed, as my startled carapmates came cluster- ing around, — " It's better to be born lucky than rich!" The wind v/as nov/ blowing a perfect hurricane, and the trees tottered around us, threatening every moment to fall. In an hour or so, however, tlie gale abating, we again addressed ourselves to sleep. Tov/ards morning, feeling a disagreeable warmth and superincumbent pressure, I was induced to uncover, and, looking out, the cause was ex- plained by the presence of a dense snow that covered the ground to the depth of several inches. The fallen snow was melting fast, and that yet descending soon merged into rain. A pretty-looking set of fellows were we, in a comparatively short time ! — ^blankets, robes, clothes, and every article about us were wet — soaking wet — -and covered with mud. It required an effort of several hours to kindle a fire, so thoroughly saturated was everything with water ; — Xhii done, we all gathered around it, and — such a group ! — Oh, the beautiea of mud aud water ! A painter might describe it, — I cannot, 13 146 nfDIAN FORTS. If the reader imagines we felt in a superlative good humor while stand- ing there, breakfastless, shivering, and wet, he has conjured up a strange illusion. It having ceased raining about mid-day, in the course of the afternoon we enjoyed a beautiful sunshine for a couple of hours, which enabled us to assume a better travelling plight; and, favored by a mild atmosphere and clear sky, on the following morning, we again resumed our course. Striking upon an Indian trail, we bore leftward from the river, and, in a short ride, came to a sand creek shui in by precipitous embankments of limestone, cnrougli which our road led by a narrow defile. A transparent spring gushes from the right bank with considerable noise, furnishing a beautiful streamlet to its hitherto high bed, which is knov/n as the " Warm Spring." A short distance above the mouth of this creek, the Platte makes its final egress from the Black Hills through a tunnel-kke pass, walled in upon either side by precipitous cliffs of red-sandstone and siliceous lime- stone, sometimes overhanging the stream at their base, and towering to a height of from three to five hundred feet. The high table lands consti- tuting these immense walls, are surmounted with shrubs and occasional pines and cedars, that unite to present a wild romantic scenery. Continuing on, and bearing still further leftward, we passed a beautiful valley, graced with several springs and a small grove of cottonwood, with cherry and plum bushes, near which rose a conical hill abundant in fos- siliferous limestone of a snowy whiteness. A diminutive pond in the vicin- ity afforded several varieties of the testaceous order, both bivalves and univalves — a circumstance quite rare among mountain waters. The soil of this locality appeared to be a compound of clay, sand, and marl, and well adapted to agriculture. Passing this, our course led over a gently undulating prairie, bounded on either side by pine hills. The soil was generally of a reddish, sandy loam, intermixed with clay ; and, judging from the long dry grass of the preceding year, it was both rich and productive. Towards night we arrived at a large creek, bearing the name of Bittei Cottonwood,— so called from the abundance of that species of poplar in its valley. These trees generally grow very tall and straight with expansive tops, — averaging from twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet in height. The creek occupies a wide, sandy bed, over which the water is dispersed in several shallow streams. The valley is broad and of a jetty, vegetable mould, variegated, at intervals, with layers of gravel deposited by aqueous currents, and is bounded on both sides by abrupt acclivities leading to the beautiful plateaux and lofty pine hills so abundant in the neighborhood. The remains of three or four Indian forts were situated adjoming the place selected for our encampment. These were built of logs, aiTanged in a circular form, and enclosing an area, sufficient for the accommodation of twenty or thirty warriors. The walls were generally about six feet high, with single entrances, and apertures in various places for tf»e use of their defenders in case of attack. All Indian forts, meeting my observation in subsequent travels, with one oi two exceptions, were of the same general description. Some, how«f«r CHERRY TEA. 147 tie almost entirely roofed in by an arched covering, presenting a coniform appearance. The only exception to this mode of fortification was of a quadrangular form, and in a solitary instance the materials were of rock. The latter structure I shall take occasion to describe in due course. The valley gave abundant indication of wild fruit at the proper season, — euch as plums, cherries, currants, goose and butialo berries, (shepherdia argentea.) The signs of game were very plentiful, particularly elk ;— after camp two or three of us sallied out with our rifles in quest of these wary animals, while others were busily em.ployed in digging for roots tc appease the gnawing of appetite, which began to make itself most sensibly felt by all. About sundown both parties came in, — the hunters quite dispirited, not having seen any thing in the shape of elk or other game, — but the root diggers had been more lucky and brought with them a small supply of nutritious aliments, which were divided equally among the company, — and, through scarcely a half dozen mouthfuls were apportioned to each, they answered, to some extent, the designed object. These roots consisted of two varieties, viz : pomme llanc, and com- mote. The pomme blanc, or wliite apple, is a native of the prairies and moun- tains, oval shaped and about three and a half inches in circumference. It is encased in a thin fibrous tegument, which, when removed, exposes an interior of white pulpy substance, much hke a turnip in taste. It gen- erally grows at a depth of three or fonr inches, in the soil of hill-sides and plateaux, where is found a reddish clay loam abundant in fragmentary rocks and gravel. The stalk attains a height of about three inches, and in general description is quite like a well known article, common to the States, called " sheep-sorrel." At the proper season it bears a handsome white blossom, that would suffer no disparagement when placed in juxtaposi- tion with many of the choicer specimens of our gardens. The commote'^' is a root much like the common radish in size and shape, while a brownish skin envelopes a substance of milky whiteness, soft and nutritious, and of an agreeable taste. It is found most abundant in river bottoms, and requires a rich alluvial soil, well mixed with sedimentary deposites and vegetable matter. It generally penetrates to a depth of about four inches. Its leaves resemble those of the carrot in shape and color, and seldom grow to exceed two inches from the ground, while a stalk equally unpretending, bears a blueish blossom, not without some just claim to beauty. The pomrm hlanc and commote are equally good whether boiled or raw and are uniformly harmless, even with those unaccustomed to their use as an article of food. Making way with our scanty supply, a fire was struck and a kettle of tea prepared from wild cherry bark, which proved quite wholesome. This, as I ascertained, is a drink quite common among mountaineere and Indians in the spring season, and is used for purifying the blood and reducing it to suitable consistency for the temperature of iBummer. Ai the auccessful performer of the task assigned, I most cordially attest to *I am ignortmt of the msaoiDg or derivatioa of this name. 14S PASTDtG AlfD FBASTirfa. its virtues, and recommerd it as the most innocent and effective medicine, if medicine it may be called, that can be employed for a result so neces- sary to general health. Early on the succeding day we resumed our journey. I now for the first time noticed a gradual change in the geological character of the country. The soil in many places appears to be sterile, and is generally of a red clayish nature, mixed with sand and fragmentary rock, and strongly impregnated with mineral salts, among which nitre forms a prouiinent component. Some spots, for a considerable extent, are entirely destitute of vegetation, and pr93ent a surface whitened by saline efflorescences, among which nitre and sulphate of soda foTW a predominant part. The character of the various moulds (v/ith the exception of the allu- vion in the vicinity of tlie rivers and creeks) is almost entirely primitive, like numerous strata of rocks upon which they repose. The grass, from the dry specimens of the previous summer's gro^'th, appeared to be of a longer and a coarser kind, and more sparse and iso- lated. The short buffalo-grass of the grand prairie had almost entirely disappeared, — in some places a blueish salt grass (herba salee) showed itself in plats uncropped by game. Ariemisie,* or rather greasewood of the mountaineers, became quite abundant, as did absinthe, or wild sage, together with severals specimens of the cacti family, which are the common pobt of the mountain prairies. The purifying effects of saline exhalations, with the odor of the grease- wood and absinthe of the prairies, plateaux and table lands, and the balsam and cedar of the adjacent mountains, afforded an atmosphere, even at this unfavorable season, as aromatic as the air of Eden and as wholesome els the deathless clime of Elysium. Eastward lay a braad expanse of prairie, bounded only by the hor- izon, while westward, and upon either hand, the high summits of the Black Hills, with their pines and snows, told our ingress to other and wilder .scenes. Our course, for some twenty or twenty-five miles, led through a broad valley, though occasionally winding among rugged hills of red- sandstone and primitive rock, with denuded sides and level summits, covered with shrubs and dwarfish pines. Towards night, on reaching a small stream, called Horse-shoe creek, we struck camp. One of the party having killed a buck deer, we were promptly on hand, and not at all backward in obeying the calls of appetite, sharpened by a continuous abstinence of three days. • Lt. Fremont, in his report relative to the proceedings of the expedition of 1842, '3, and '4, has designated some three varieties of shrubs by the general term Arte- misie, among which are greasewood and pi'airie sage. Altliongli the latter are of ;he same family, the difference in their appearance is so marked, I have thought it proper to observe a nominal distinction, and for that reason they are called, in sub- sequent pages, by terms familiar to the mountaineers. PRAmiE D0G8. 149 Deer-meat at this season of the year is very poor eating,— espec- ially that of the buck,— it being both lean and tough ; but, indiflferent as it was, we were too hungry to be nice. Previous to reaching camp I rode along the base of a small moun- tain, some distance to the right of the main party, in quest of game; there I caught glimpse of the first panther I had yet met with. Jumping from my horse, I thought to give him a passing shot, — but he, neither liking my looks nor the smell of gunpowder, made hasty) retreat to his mountain home. Passing leisurely on, my course led through a large village of prairie-dogs, which reminds me of having heretofore neglected a description of these singular animals. I am at a loss to imagine what it is in the habits or looks of the prairie-dog that entitles him to that appellation. In appearance and size he more approximates a large species of the •iciurus family, commonly called the fox-sqmrrel, than anything I can name. His tail, however, is but an inch and a half long, while his ears and legs are also short ; — as a whole, perhaps, he is a trifle larger and more corpu- lent than the fox-squirrel. His " bark " is precisely like the occasional chatterings of that animal, and his color is of a brownish red. His habits are quite inoflensive and lead him to procure his food from roots and grass. Clumsy in his motions, he seldom ventures far from home — fearful of the numerous enemies that beset him on all sides, both from birds and beasts of prey. These animals congregate together in large villages, and dig their bur- rows adjoining each other ; — the dirt thrown from them often forming cone- like elevations three or four feet high, in whose tops are the entrances. The latter are nearly of a perpendicular descent for two feet, and then slope av/ay to a great distance under ground. These villagers locate without regard to the vicinity of water, and it is gravely doubted, by many persons, whether they make the same use of that fluid as other animals ; — I have seen large settlements of them in high arid prairies, at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles from either stream or pool of water, and in regions subject to neither rain nor dews. They are keen of sight and scent, and seemed governed by some code of federative regulations for mutual safety. Their guards are regularly posHed at the suburbs of every village, whose duty it is to be continually on the alert and give tiiwjly warning of the approach of danger. . This the cautious sentinels discharge by standing erect at the slightest tainture of the ai r, or startling noise, or strange appearance ; and, having ascertained by carefit. observations its nature and cause, they sound the sharp yelp and chatter '>f alarm, in a hurried manner, — then, betaking themselves to tlie watch-towers that protect the entrances to their burrows, from the verge of the steep parapets they again renew their warning notes, when the whilom busy popu j 'C, bescattered at brief distances for amuse- ment or food, return with al ',':5Jble despatch to their ready holes and dis- appear from view. The faithful sentinels are las^ to retreat from tlieir posts, and not xoiSi^ auently maintain their ground at "^hQ hazard of individual safety. 13* IM WILD acEifsa. On the disappearance of the cause of alarm, they are the first to coi» municate the pleasing intelligence, and soon the reassured community again betake themselves to their business and sports. The prairie-owl and rattlesnake maintain friendly relations with these inoffensive villagers, and not unfrequently the three heterogeneous associates occupy the same subterranean appartments ; — a strange companionship of birds, beasts, and reptiles ! The prairie dog is extremely tenacious of life, and can seldom be killed with a rifle, unless by a brain-shot ; and tlien, even, it is difficult to secure him, as his companions will immediately convey the carcase into their holei beyond reach. The flesh of these animals is tender and quite palatable, and their oil superior in fineness, and absence from all grosser ingredients, to that of any other known animals ; it is highly valued as a medicine in certain cases. CHAPTER Xlll. The Creek valley. — ^The Platte as a mountain stream. — Caiicm. — Romantic prospect. — Comical bear story. — Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. — Geological r©* marks. — Division of party. — Safety of spring travel.— La Bonte's creek. — Remarks by the way.— Service-berry.— Deer Creek. — General observations. — Moccasin mak< ing.— Box-elder.— Bear killed. — Excellence of its flesh. — Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. — The grizzly bear, lus nature and habits. HoRSE-SHOE creek is a stream of considerable size, that traces its way through a broad valley of rich alluvion, well timbered with cottonwood and box-elder, and affording all the usual varieties of mountain fruit. The grass of the preceding year's growth was quite rank and stout, giving evidence of a fertile soil. Resuming our course, we again bore towards the river with the design of crossing, and, after a few hours' ride came to its banks, through a broad opening between two ridges of hills that communicated with it from the high prairies and table lands upon the left. Here, however, fording was impracticable, the stream being too high and the current swift. The Platte of the mountains retains scarcely one characteristic of the river with which the reader has hitherto become so familiarized. It is now confined to a bod of rock and gravel, not exceeding two hundred yards in widtli, and is of unwonted clearness and transparency. Its banks are ■teep, and the attrition of high waters discloses a deep vegetable mould in iheir vicinity, favorable to the growth of grain or other produce. A small bottom of rich sandy loam upon the opposite side lay at the boM if a high ridge of table lands, which presented its rugged sidee of nd> IKTERESTING VIETW. 15 1 ■andstone, almost vertical in their position, and ornamented with an occa- sional stunted pine, or cedar, or shrub of the buffalo-berry, (shepherdia ar- (rentea,) while at their base reposed, in huge masses, a profuse medley of fallen fragments, strown around in all the wild confusion of savage scenery. A few hundred yards to the left, the Platte forces its way through a barrier of table lands, forming one of tliose striking pecuharities incident to mountain streams, called a " canon."* Improving the opportunity afforded by a short stay, I ascended an emi- nence to enjoy a full vew of the grand spectacle. The mountain through which the river finds passage, at this place, is from five to eight hundred feet high, opposing perpendicular walls upon each side, that at many points overhang the narrow stream which sweeps with its foaming waters among the rocks below. This canon is nearly two miles in length. About midway of the dis- tance the whole stream is precipitated in an unbroken volume from a ledge of rocks, causing a cataract of some twenty or twenty-five feet descent. Standing upon the dizzy verge of this frightful chasm, and gazing adown its dark abyss, the aspect is one of terrific sublimity, and such an one as will cause the beholder to shrink back with instinctive dread ! These walls are principally of red-sandstone, and ferruginous rock, the precise character of which I was unable to determine. Upon the summit I noticed an abundance of silex, with some elegant specimens of crystal- line quartz, that, reflecting the sun's rays, shone like gems in the crown of a mountain-god ; a number of singular ligneous petrifactions also met my observation, principally consisting of pine and cedar. The surrounding country brought within the scope of vision an interest- ing and romantic scene. The lofty table land in front (with diversified surfaces of granitic rock and vegetable earth, affording a scanty nourish- ment for herbage and foothold for dwarfish cedars and pines) spread far away to the snow-clad mountains of the north, — while rearward at its base lay the broad valley through which passes the Oregon trail, shut in upon two sides by rugged hills ; and farther on arise the snowy sides of the Lara- mie chain, with their cloud-capped summits. To the left, peak towering above peak, in gradual succession, point to the ridge dividing the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific; and, to the right, the lessening eminences, vallons, and plateaux, guide the eye to where the boundless prairie revels in wild beauty and owns itself the realm of eternal Solitude ! How magnificent must be the scene when spring arrays the surrounding landscape in her own loveliness, and bedecks the wilderness with gaudy verdure ! Bearing again to the left, we continued our course by a winding buf&lo-path which soon brought us to a broad valley bordering upon the Platte. *The Spanish worfl " canon" implies a narrow, tunnel-like passage between higk and precipitous banks, formed by mountains or table lands. It is pronounced kawtok, and u a nuuihar tarm in the vocabulary of a mountaineer. 152 OB.SEIIVATIOMS, Riding on, we soon cam« io a large sand creek; and. observing severa- bulls in the vicinity, we accepted the advantage ofiered by a small grova of cottonwoods and willow*? with a clear spring, and struck camp. During the day, the oddity of an old Franco-Canadian, who accompa- nied us, atforded me considerable amusement. Observing that he had car- ried his gu!i uncharged for several days past, a circumstance so singular in this country led me to enquire the cause. The old fellow, with the most laugha.ble sangfroid, answered as follows : " Me carry fusee load ? No, no ! monsieur. No good, carry fusee load eur le printems. Certes, much hear come out — him dangereux. Me live long en le montagnes ; oui, no remarque — duo, tree, great many year ! Sacre dem bear, — vat you call him en la American ?" " Grizzly bear, I suppose you mean," said I. "Oui, oui, monsieur; much graces, monsieur ! Oui, gizzle bear; me parler bon American, que no remarque gizzle bear! ontonner! Sacre dem gizzle bear, him come out une day, kill me de pres." " Well." continued I; "what has that to do with carrying your gun Yin- loaded ?" "Oui, oui; pardonner, monsieur. Me parler tel une bon Americiui ! Me reciter, sacre dem bear, — vat you call him, monsieur ? Oh, gizzle bear ! Sacre dem gizzle bear, me see him une day, en le printems ; big, grand felleu. Shoot him fusee ; make him much blood ; no kill him. Sacre dem bear, gizzle bear, him jump for me. ' Wa-r-r-h!' he say, (im- itating tiie bear.) Bon Dieu ! me no stay dare ; me bein fast run ; me abandonner la fusee ; me climb une leetil pine. Sacre dem bear — vat you call him ? Ah, oui, gizzle bear. Certes, monsieur, me parler bon Amer- ican, tel une naturel ! Sacre dem bear, him come to tree ; no climb him, —he too leetil. Look him ail round, den ; sacre dem bear, gizzle bear did. See fusee lie ; pick him up; cock him fusee, sacre dem bear, gizzle bear did. Take iiim aim at me ; snap him fusee tree time. Oh, mon Dieu ! mon Dieu ! Suppose him fusee been load ! Tonnerre de bateme ! Him shoot me ; him kill mo dead ! sacre dem bear, dem gizzle bear vould ! Certes, monsieur ; por le assure, sacre dem gizzle bear, him kill me ! en le verite, monsieur, him kill me dead !" " So," resumed I, " your reason for not carrying your gun loaded is, you are fearful that a bear might chance to get hold of it and shoot you !" " Certes, monsieur ; en le verite ! No carry gun load, sur le printems. Sacre dem bear get 'old of him, he shoot !" Towards night, two of our party, who had gone in pursuit of buffalo, returned kden with meat, which, though poor, was far preferable to the lean venison we had led upon for the last tv/enty-four hours. The male buffalo, at this season of the year, is generally fatter than the female, unless it be one of the few barren cows that sometimes are found in large bands: but, neither is worth boasting of. After our long fasting and indifferent tare for six entire days, it is not marvellous that we improved, with quickened zest, the present op- portunity of feasting. DIVISION OF PARTY. 158 The day following, two parties started in quest of game, — one of which killed three bulla, at as many shots, within half an hour after leaving camp. The other party also killed two, but, in securing one of them, tiiey met with an exciting adventure. Both animals were extended upon the ground, one entirely and the other apparently dead — the hunters, having butchered one of thenj, proceeded to the otlier, and were in the act of raising him to the right position for the commencement of operation. Tiie old fellow, not relishing the like famil- iarity from new acquaintances, sprang to his feet, and made a plunge at the affrighted hunters, who only escaped the fatal charge by one ot those admirable teats of quick dodging so often in requisition among moun- taineers. The bull, passing between them, fell head foremost against the gi-ound, two or tiiree feet beyond the spot they had occupied scarcely a second previous; — then rising, with glaring eyes and distended nostrils, and mouth foaming with blood and rage, he pursued one of tiiem in hot chase, for a distance of several hundred yards. So close was the bull in a few leaps, that with a sweep of hie horns he gored the hunter's back, tearing away his pantaloons and coat, and prostrating him upon all-fours at the edge of a deep ravine, down v/hich he tumbled ;— the enraged beast fol- lowed, but the force of an unbroken headway landed hiia, with a tremen- dous shock, against the opposite bank, far beyond the hunter. Improve ing tlie advantage thus gained, the latter escaped through the windings of the ravine, and ascended the bank, without the reach of his pursuer. "^ Having procured his ritie, after nine more shots had riddled tiie lights of the bull's carcase, the business of butchering was again commenced and terminated without further mishap. Our stay at this camp was prolonged for three or four days. The geological character of the vicinity corresponds very much with that previously remarked, and to describe it in full would seem too much hke a repetition. I have, perhaps, said sufficient to give the reader a cor- rect idea of the prominent characteristics of these parts, and hence, for the sake of brevity, shall hereafter forbear further notes upon this subject, unless some uniform change or striking peculiarity should call for a passing observation. Prior to resuming our journey, a disagreement occurred between us rel- ative to the proposed route. Some were desirous of proceeding southward into the Plains of Lara- mie ; thence, bearing eastward to Laramie river, following its valley to Port Platte ; — others were anxious to continue up the Platte to Sweet Water, or further, and from thence proceed as circumstances or inclination might suggest. - This ditreronce finally resulted in a division of the party, — four m favor of the western, and three of the southern route,— myself being izi" eluded with the former. Selecting two pack-mulea for the conveyance of provisions and camp' 154 MOCCASIN MAKEta. equipage, the day following we mounted our horses and were under way With the exception of myself, the present party consisted of old and ex perienced mountaineers, well acquainted with the country and the nature of Indians. Though, m regard to tJie latter, little danger was apprehen- ded at this season of the year, as the Sioux had not yet left their winter quarters, and they rarely traverse the vicinity of Sweet Water before the middle of May. Other tribes we might look upon as friendly. We, therefore, anticipated a safe and pleasant excursion. During the day our course led over a rough undulating prairie, bounded on the right mostly by the river, and on the left by the mountains. In the heads of valleys and ravines I noticed numerous withered stalks of the bread-root, (jpsoralea esculenta,) indicating its great abundance, and also an increased quantity of absinthe. At night we encamped at the forks of a small stream called La Bonte's creek. Near the confluence of its waters with the Platte are the remains of a log cabin, occcupied by a trading party several years since. The creek is tolerably well timbered, and the valley, through which il winds its way, aflbrds many beautiful bottoms of rich soil. The rock in the vicinity disclosed a furruginous character, especially the sandstone. Among the usual fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, I here noticed the " service berry." This kind of fruit is very abundant in the mountainous parts of Oregon, where it attains a size but little inferior to the common plum, and is highly esteemed for its superior flavor. Leaving La Bonte's creek, we travelled by easy stages, for three suc- cessive days, and struck camp at the mouth of Deer creek. Our course led over several beautiful streams, most of them well tim- bered with Cottonwood and box-elder, and occasionally skirted by rich bot- toms. Previous to reaching this point we followed along the Platte valley, for a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, which presented several fine bottoms of rich sandy soil upon either bank, together with numerous groves of cottonwood. The face of the country is generally a succession of ridges and hol- lows, intersected by ravines and small streams of water. At Deer creek, and for some distance before reaching it, the mountaiu chain to our left approaches within four or five miles of tlie ri; er rising abruptly to a height of from eight to fifteen hundred feet, with frowning brows and pine-clad summits. Deer creek is one of the largest alfluents of the Platte, from the south, between Sweet Water and Laramie. At this place it is about eight yardi broad, with a smooth and tran^^parent current that sweeps over a bed of rock and gravel. Its banks are well timbered with large cottonwoods, and present rich bottoms of alluvial soil, very luxuriant in grass. Even this early in the season, the fresh grass of the vicinity aflbrds tempt- ing nourishment for our animals, and wishing to favor them as much ai possible, we have concluded to remain a short time. During the succeeding interval we were variously occupied in hunting rcot-diiroin:'-. an.! morcasin-making. The latter is a business in whidi r>o A FEAST OF BEAR MEAT. 166 every mountaineer is necessarily a proficient, and rarely will he ventuit upon a long journey without the appurtenances of his profession. The process of shoe-muking with him is reduced to its most simple form. He merely takes two pieces of buflalo* (or any other suitable) skin, each being a little longer and wider than his foot, particularly towards the heel ; these he folds separately, and lays them togetiier parallel with the turned edges ; then, rounding and trimming tlie sides, to render them foot- shaped, with an awl and the sinew of buflalo or other animal, or small strips of thin deer-skin, (" whang") he sews the vamps from end to end, — then after cutting a tongue-like appendage in the upper side, midway from heel to toe, and stitching together Uie posterior parts, his task is done. Having obtained a quantity of sap from a grove of box-elders near camp, we found it a sweet and pleasant liquid, and not infeiior to that of maple. Sugar might be manufactured from it, with little trouble. ^ The leaves of this tree, as well as the general appearance of its wood greatly assimilate those of maple, and, independent of its bushy tops and stunted, winding growtl^i, it would be hard to tell the difference at a first glance. Grame was plenty on every side, both buffalo, deer, and elk, with some few bear. The second day after our arrival, one of the latter, attracted by the scent of fresh buflulo meat, ventured within gun-shot of camp. Listantly the balls of four rifles were buried in his carcase. Aroused by this feeling salute, he rushed towards us at the top of iiis speed, when our horses, affrighted at the strange appearance, broke snorting away over the neigh- boring hills, and we ourselves took to trees as fast as possible. In the midst of this general consternation a pistol bail, fired by one of the party, buried itself in the brains of our troablesome visitor and laid him prostrate. He was one of a species common to the mountains, called the red bear, and must have weighed four or five hundred pounds. The fat upon his back was full three inches tliick His skin when stretched would have compared in size to that of a buffalo, and the claws of his feet were full three incnes long. At this season of the year, when these animals first leave their dens, tney are much the fattest, — a singular circumstance, if we remember the Tact of their remahiing holed up for the entire winter, without eating ! After butchering tha greasy victim, and bringing our erratic horses back to camp, we regaled ourselves with an ample feast of bear's hver, heart, and kidneys, basted witli fat, — a dish that epicures might well covet. Then, filling a large camp-kettle with portions of the " fleece " and ribs, we allowed it to boil till the next morning, and thus prepared another deli- cious entertainment, such as is rarely met with in any country other tlian Jiis. Bear meat, to be tender and good, should be boiled at least ten hours. This is probably the most preferable mode of cooking it, though a roast ol [he article is far from bad. ''^here are four several varieties of bear found In the Rocky Mountains 116 lUTDRE AND HABITS OF THE GRIZZLY BEAM. and coQ&tries adjacent, viz. : The grizzly bear, the black, the red, and tht white. Of these, the grizzly bear stands pre-eminent in ferocity and strength. He will almost invariably flee at the sight or scent of a man, and seldom attacks any one unless wounded. When shot, he generally runs at full speed towards tlie sound, and woe to the unfortunate hunter who then comes in his way, unless fully prepared for a deadly encounter ! This animal reigns prince of the mountains, and every other beast within his wide realm acknowledges his supremacy. Wolves and panthers dare not approach him, or disturb aught savoring of his ownership. Even the carcase of his prey, covered with me earth and rock his cautious instinct teaches him to heap upon it for preservation, is unmolested, though hundreds of wolves and panthers might be starving around. Buffalo dread his presence far more than the dangerous approach of the hunter, and will sooner bring into requisition their swiftest powers of flight on such occasions. With great difficulty a horse can can be per- suaded to go within any near distance of one of them, even when led, and then he will quail and tremble in every joint, from extreme terror. Li short, the grizzly bear stalks forth at pleasure, in his majesty and strength, lord of the wild solitudes in which he dwells, and none dares op- pose him. Some writers assert that bears will not prey upon dead carcases, — this b contrary to fact. I have often known them take possession of the fcarcases of animals, even when nearly pvitrid, and remain until they were clevoured. Tiiey frequently kill buffalo, horses, and cattle to gratify their taste foi gidiimal food, and, in such cases, always drag their prey to some convenient (gpot, and perform the task of burial by heaping upon it piles of rock or C/arth, to a depth of several feet, for protection against the voracity of othei f.'Sasts of prey. It is not uncommon, even, that they drag the entire carcase c-f a full-grown bull a distance of several hundred yards, by the horns, foi this purpose, — so great is their strength and so accute their sagacity 169 CHAPTER XIV Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of vuflering;. — Close contest. — A comical incident. — Cross Platte. — Canon camp. — Sage trees- Mountain sheep, and all about them.— Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it. — Devil's Gate. — Landscape scenery. The adventure recorded in the preceding chapter called forth tlie re- hearsal of many tlirilling stories of frightful encounter witli that proud monarch of the mountains, the grizzly bear. Two or three of tliese it may not be uninteresting to transcribe. Several years since, an old trapper by the name of Glass, with his corn panion, while on an excursion, ca ne upon a large grizzly bear. Bruin, having received the salute of two rifles, as usual, rushed towards his uncivil assailants, who broke from him witli all possible despatch. But Glass, stumbling, fell prostrate in his flight, and before he could recover his feet the infuriated beast was upon him. Now commenced a death-struggie. The pistols of the hunter were both discharged in quick succession, — the ball of one entering the breast of hia antagonist, and that of the other grazing his back. Smarting and maddened by the pain of additional wounds, the bleeding monster continued the conflict with the fury of desperation, — tearing from the limbs and body of the unfortunate man large pieces of trembling flesh, and lacerating him with the deep thrusts of his teeth and claws. Meanwhile the sufferer maintained, with his butcher-knife, an obstinate defence, though with fast waning effort and strength. Finally, enfeebled by the loss of blood, and exhausted from the extraordinary exertions of a desperate and unequal contest, he was unable to oppose further resis- tance, and quietly resigned himself to his fate. The bear, too, with the thick blood oozing from his numerous wounds, and faint from the many stabs among his veins and sinews, seemed equally in favor of a suspension of hostihties ; and, extending himself across the hunter's back, he remained motionless for two hours or more. ^ But now another enemy commences an assault upon his vitals — that enemy is death. In vain is defensive effort. In vain are all liis sti-uggles. He falls by the hunter's side a lifeless corse. The setting sun had cast his lurid glare upon the ensanguined spot, as the comrade of the miserable Glass ventured near to ascertain the result of the fierce encounter. There lay the body of his deserted friend, stretched out, apparently life- less and half-torn to pieces ; and, by its side, lay the carcase of that ene- my, which had waged with it such murderous war, cold and stiffened in death! Now, doubly terrified at hia lontlin«gi, but still govtmed by ■ordid ni»- 160 A CLOSE CONTEST. lives, he stripped the former of his arms and every other valuable, then no longer needed (as he supposed) by their owner, and, mounting hie horse, started immediately for the nearest trading post. On his arrival he recounted the particulars of the fatal occurrence, — carefully concealing, however, his own criminal conduct. The story was accredited, and the name of Glass found place upon the long catalogue of those who had fallen a prey to wild beasts and savage men. Six weeks elapsed and no one thaught of the subject of our sketch as among the living. The general surprise, therefore, may be readily imag- ined, on opening the fort-gates one morning, at finding before them the poor, emaciated form of a man, half-naked, and covered with wounds ami running sores, and so torn the fleshless bones of his legs and thighs were exposed to view in places ! and how this astonishment was heighten- ed on recognizing the person of Glass in the illy defined lineaments of his countenance — the very man so long regarded as the inhabitant of another world ! A veritable ghost suddenly appearing upon the spot could not have occasioned greater wonder I But, sensations of pity and commiseration quickly succeeded those of surprise, and the unhappy sufferer was conveyed within doors and received from the hands of friends that careful attention his situation so much re- quired. The story of his misfortunes was thrillingly interesting. When left by his companion for dead, he was in a state of unconsciousness, with scarce- ly the breath of hfe retained in his mangled body. But, the soft night- wind stanched his wounds, and a shght sleep partially revived him from his death-like stupor. With the morning, the slight sensations of hunger he began to ex- perience were appeased from the raw flesh of the carcase at his side; and, thus strengthened, by a slow and tedious efl^ort he was enabled to reach a near stream and quench his thirst. Still further revived, he again crawled to the carcase at the demands of appetite. In this manner iie continued for three days, when the putrescent corse compellecl him to abandon it. Then it was he commenced liis tedious return to the fort, (some seventy miles distant,) which he performed during an interval of forty successive days ! The whole of this long stretch he crawled upon his hands and knees, — subsisting, for the meanwhile, only upon insects, such as chance threw in his way, but passing most of the time without one morsel with which to appease the gnawings of limiger or renew his wasted strength. Yet, great as were his sufferings and intolerable as they may seem, he survived them all, and, by the kuid attention of friends, soon recov* ered. He still lives in the town of Taos, New Mexico, and frequently re- peats to wondering listeners the particulars of this terrific and painfui adventure One of our party, whose right hand was much disabled from the elBects of a wound, now told his story. For several years succeedmg his first arrival in the Rocky Mountains, A COMICAL INCIDENT. l61 he had permitted no opportunity of killing- any one of the various species of bear, common to these regions, to pass unimproved. Never did he think of fearing them, and was always the last to retreat in case of a charge. When a bear appeared within any reasonable shooting distance of our hunter, it almost invariably fell a victim to his unerring aim. But, e'-e- long, this spirit of bold-daring proved the source of lasting regret to its possessor. On the occasion alluded to, having shot at one of these animals, contra ry to his usual good luck, he only wounded it. The bear in turn now became the assailant, but received the contents of two pistols before it had time to advance far. Our hunter at this crisis sprang to a neighboring pine, which he commenced climbing. His pursu- er, gaining the tree almost as soon, likewise began its ascent. Here occurred a struggle between them — the man to force his way up- wards, and the bear to prevent him. The former, drawing his butcher- knife, thrust it at the eyes and nose of his antagonist. Not fancying such pointed hints upon a delicate subject, Mr. Bruin caught hold of the hunter's hand, and, as an earnest of deep sensitiveness, crushed it between his teeth, — nor even then relinquished the gripe. Transferred to tlie left hand, the knife continued its work, till t!ie sickening beast commenced sliding down- ward — dragging the poor hunter also to the ground. Both struck at the same time ; but, at that instant, the knife of the latter pierced the heart of his antagonist, and laid him dead at his feet. The unfortunate man, however, lost two of his fingers in the afiray, and his hand was otherwise so much injured he has never since recovered its use. Another story related at the same time, though not possessing the deep and thrilling interest of the preceding ones, partakes a little of the iudircous, and will doubtless amuse the reader. The narrator a while since formed one of a trapping party, with which he proceeded to the Utah country. While there, on a certain occasion, having set his traps over night, he returned to examine them the next morning, in quest of beaver, and, to his surprise, one of them was missing. After cautiously examining tlie premises, under the impression that some lurking Indians had stolen his trap v/ith its contents, he noticed the tracks of bears, near by, which served at once to unravel the whilom mystery of its disappearance. He new began to muse upon his loss, as, without the missing trap his set woul I be rendered incomplete, and, under present circumstances, \he want of t.Ti thing was more than the worth of it. While thus ruminating, a slight nDise, among neighboring cherry-bushes and cottonwood, caught his ear, which sounded like some one beating with two sticks. This induced him to approach for the purpose of ascertaining the cause when an opening revealed to view Mr. Bruin seated upon a log and hold- ing to his face the missing trap, tightly clasped to his fore-paw. The bear appeared to be regaraing the strange instrument with close attention, as if to study into the principles of its construction ; — now gazing at it endwise, then bringing its side in close proximity to his eyes ; tlien turning it over to examine the opposite one ; — now, he would essay Ita 14* <^2 HUNTING CAMP. strength, and lig'htly taps it upon the log. But this is a painful operation^- le relinquishes it, and resumes his former grotesque movements. Watching this curious performance, the trapper could scarcely retain ws gravity, or master his fondness for the ludicrous sufficiently for the in- tended shot. He did, however, and the comedy was suddenly transformed »o a tragedy, by leaving its actor struggung in death. A light fall of snow during the last of our stay at Deer creek, rendered the ground quite muddy and soft ; notwithstanding which we resumed our course early in the morning of the fourtli day. Continuing on, a ride of thirty miles brought us to the place where the Oregon trail crosses the Platte ; and, after fording the river, we encamped upon the opposite side. The stream, at this point, is about three hundred yards from bank to bank, and, at the time of our crossing it, swimming deep for a small por- tion of *he way. In ordinary stages, the water is but little over three feet deep, and the ford perfectly safe and practicable. The partial meltmg of the mountain Bnows had increased the size and velocity of its current, and rendered our passage slightly dangerous and difficult. The bed appeared to be rocky, and in some places rough, — requiring much caution in crossing waggons, to prevent tliem from overturning. On the third day following, we arrived at another remarkable caiion, after travelling a distance of thirty-five or forty miles. Here, finding large numbers of mountain sheep, we were induced to remain a short time. Our course for most of this distance was confined to the valley of the Platte, on account of the greater supply of wood found upon its banks. Towards noon of the first day, we passed a point, called the " Red Buttes," at which the river cuts its way through a lofty ridge of hills. This passage left a considerable bank upon both sides, shut in by abrupt - walls of red argillaceous sandstone, towering to the height of several hundred feet. The soil was generally a mixture of clay and sand, and, in some places, afibrded a reddish loam which appeared to bo very rich. A short ride from the '• Red Buttes " took us across a beautiful stream, with a broad bottom, well timbered with cotton wood. Large herds of buflalo were continually in sight upon the whole route. Several miles previous to reaching the canon, my notice was first attracted to the extraordinary size attained by the wild sage ; it having merged its shrub- ike appearance into that of trees varying from five to ten feet in height and from twenty to twenty-five inches in* circumference at the root. The magnificent dimensions of this herb are retained for a large extent of territory to the south and west of this vicinity. It is frequently made use of for fire-wood, and the prairies, in many places, are covered with Deautiful groves of it, — perfuming the atmospliere and revelling in peren nial verdure. The canon before referred to, is caused by the river passing through a of hiils, for a reach of nearly half a mile. MOUNTAIN SHEEP. Mft The current is here shut in by banks of perpendicular rock, four or fir* hundred feet high, which sometimes overhang it, and leave a narrow space of scarcely two hundred feet for its bed. These consist principally of white cretaceous sandstone, soft and friable, and frequently preseat to view the appearance of regular mason-work. During our stay we succeeded in killing five mountain sheep. Some of these were very large and quite fat. The flesh of this animal is equal in flavor to that of bufialo. It is gener- ally in good order, tender and sweet, and slightly assimilates our common mutton in taste. The habits and appearance of mountain sheep resemble those of no other animal. They select for their favorite habitation the rugged fastnesses of wild and inaccessible mountains. In the cold of winter, they descerd to some of the numerous valleys that so beautifully diversify the scenery of these re- gions, where the verdure of spring so rarely fades ; and, as the warm sea- son advances, they commence their return towards the lofty snow- peaks, keeping even progress v/ith spring and fresh flowers along the mountain-sides. Theirs is a life of unbroken spring — beauty and grandeur are their dwelling place, — and, 'mid the awe-inspiring sublimity of nature's works, is their home. They gambol upon the fearful verge of the steep cliflT, or climb its perpendicular sides, bidding defiance to all pursuers. There, secure from enemies, tliey rear their young, and te^h them to leap from crag to crag in mirthful gaiety, or traverse the dizzy heights in quest of the varied sweets of changeful spring. These animals are remarkably acute of sight, and quick of scent and hearing. The least noise or tainture of the air excites then* attention and places them instantly upon the alert. Mounting upon some high rock, they will stand for hours in the same posture,^ gazing in the direction of the fancied danger. If fully satisfied of its reality, they abandon their position for another and a safer one, high among more rugged peaks, and often beyond the possibility of offensive approach. Their hue is so akin to that of the rocks which grace their range, they are with difficulty identified when standing motionless, and the hunter is constantly liable to mistake the one for the other. In size the mountain sheep is larger than the domestic animal of that name, and its general appearance is in every respect dissimilar— excepting the head and horns. The latter appendage, however, alike belongs to the male and female. The horns of the female are about six inches long, small, pointed, and somewhat flat, — but those of the male grow to an enor- mous size. I have frequently killed them having horns that measured two feet and a lialf or three feet in length, and fi-om eighteen to nineteen inches in circumference at the base. These ponderous members are of great service to their owner in descend- vng the abrupt precipices, which his habits so often render necessary. In leaping from an elevation he uniformly strikes upon the curve of his horns, & id thus saves himself from the shock of a sudden and violent contiission. The color of these animals varies from a yellowish white, to a darJt IW DEVIL'S GATE. brown, or even black. A strip of snowy whiteness extends from ham U ham, including the tail, which is short and tipped with black. Instead of wool, they are covered with hair, which is shed annually Their cry is much hke that of domestic sheep, and the same natural odor is common to both. It is extremely difficult to capture any of them alive, even while young, — and it is next to impossible to make them live and thrive in any other chmate than their own. Hence, the mountain sheep has never yet foun a place in our most extensive zoological collections. Remaining three days at this place, we were again en route, and, bear- ing to the right, passed over a ridge of rough, rocky summits, and struck the valley of the Sweet Water. Continuing up the latter, a short ride brought us to the vicinity of a noted landmark of the country, known aa Independence Rock, where we encamped. The soil of the riyer bottoms is good, but the adjoining prairies are sandy and somewhat sterile. The distance from this to the caiion is not far from twenty-three miles. Independence Rock is a solid and isolated mass of naked granite, situated about three hundred yards from the right bank of the Sweet Water. It covers an area of four or five acres, and rises to a height of nearly three hun- dred feet The general shape is oval, with the exception of a slight depres- sion in its summit where a scanty soil supports a few shrubs and a solitary dwarf-pine. It derives its namet"rom a party of Americans on their way to Oregon, under the lead of one Tharp, wlio celebrated the fourth of July at this place, — they being the first company of whites that ever made the jour- ney from the States, via South Pass. The surface is covered with the names of travellers, traders, trap- pers, and emigrants, engraven upon it in ahnost every practicable part, for the distance of many feet above its base, — but most prominent among them all is the word " Independence," inscribed by the patriotic band who first christened this lonely monument of nature in honor of Liberty's birthday. I went to the rock for the purpose of recording my name with the swollen catalogue of others traced upon its sides ; but, having glanced over the strange medley, I became disgusted, and, turning away, resolved, "If there remains no other mode of immortalizing myself I will be content to descend to the grave ' unhonored aiid unsung.^ " The day following, a heavy fall of snow and sleet forced us to remain In camp, and the consequent muddiness of the route prolonged our stay ■till furthei-. The vicinity afforded an abundance of game and a sufficiency of dry fuel it would, therefore, have been folly in us to care for wind or weather detracting as did either so little from our comfort. During this interval I rode into the prairie a short distance, in quest of game, and struck the river a few miles above crimp, at a place where the •tream cuts its way tlirough a high ridge of hills, forming another canos RETURN ROUTE. 16d of three or four hundred yards in length and about forty broad, called th€ Devil's Gate, as I afterwards ascertained. Its walls arose perpendicularly to a height of between four and five him- dred feet, and consisted of trap rock, sandstone, and granite. Dismounting, I ascended to the summit, where a grand and picturesque scenery burst upon the view. Above, the broad valley of the Sweet Water stretched far away to the westward, bounded on either side by frowning mountains, that, towering to the height of fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, present their snowy summits in proud defiance of wind or storm, and laugh at the impotency of a summer's sun ; — on the soutli, shaking their piny tops in scornful derision ; and, on the north, with denuded crests of broken granite, chal- lenging the lightnings of heaven and wooing its loudest thunders ; — while further along, the clouds played in humble sportiveness around the base of the great chain dividing the waters of two oceans, nor dared ascend its dizzy heights to range amid eternal snow. Below, in silent grandeur, arose to view the grantic mass that responds to the day-dawn of a nation's existence, surmounted by its lone pine, and bearing upon its broad register the sculptured names of the audacious disturbers of its solitude ; and further yet, the parti-colored peaks of the Black Hills, now white with fresh-fallen snow, now darkened with clus- tering pines, seemed musing in modest retirement ; while far around, in every spot accessible to discriminating vision, dense herds of grazing buf- falo covered the prairie with their pall-like mantle of countless numbers. It was indeed a magnificent prospect, and needed only the garnishing hand of spring to render it at as enchanting in loveliness as it was impres- sive in wild sublimity. CHAPTER XV. Return route. — Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass.— • Cross the Sweet Water and Platte.— Mountain Fowl.— Journey up Medicine Bow.— Dangerous country.— A fight with the Sioux.— The " Carcague."— A. sur- prise.— Visit to the Crow village.— Number and character of the Crow nation — Selling a prisoner for tobacco.— Description of Laramie Plains. Previously to leavi^ig this place, considerable discussion arose relative to our tuture course. The proposition was to continue up the Sweet Water valley to the dividing ridge at the head oi Green river, and return by the same roi^e ;— versus the suggestion to cross the Sweet Water and proceed up the Platte to tlie confluence of a large tributary from the south ; thence, keeping by the valley of the latter stream os far as the Medicine Bow Mountains, w turn to the Fort by the way of Laramie river. VICINl'lT OF THE MEDICINE BOW. The fast melting of the snow, and anticipated difficulties, not to §KJ ngers, consequent upon high water in tlie passage of creeks and riverii 3uenccd us to adopt the latter as tlie most advisable course. Such was the final decision, and, the men witli me beiag familiarly quainted with every nook and corner of the adjaceiit country, I improved J opportunity to elicit from them all possible information relative to the egon route from this onward ; and, never iiaving personally travelled in Independence Rock to the head of Green river, it may not be out of Lce to lay before tlie reader a succinct statement of some of the items 19 gleaned. The distance from tliis point to tlie famous South Pass is but little over e hundred miles. The trail follows the Sweet Water to its source, sping the river valley for most of the distance. This valley consists of undulating prairie, (at intervals rough,) varying in width from the '' rrow limits of a few yards to tlie more ample dimensions of four or five les. Sometimes, the adjoining hills close in upon the river banks and force 5 trail among their rugged windings. In one place the road leads over a jli stretch of table land for nearly a day's travel, when it again descends the valley. The stream, in place.>^, is tolerably well timbered with cottonwood, oak, . i aspen, and rolls over a rocky bed, with a clear and swift current. j The distance through the pass is about fitlecn miles, and tlie ascent d descent arc so gradual the traveller would scarcely notice tlie transi- n from the head of the Sweet Water to that of the Colorado. The hills this point are low, and the face of tlie country roUing — but not rough, brding at all times a most excellent waggon road. i On the morning of the fourth day, we accordingly retraced our course, • d, having traversed a rugged and hilly country for some ten or twelve - les, we camped in a small open prairie at the mouth of the Sweet '^ at r. I During our ride we noticed several large bands of wild sheep, at inter- ^ Is, gazing upon us from huge masses of granite that towered with 8 )lated summits to a frequent altitude of sixty or one hundred feet. | The next morning, we crossed tlie Sweet Water a little above its 1 juth. I The ford was quite feasible, the stream being some ten yards wide and *^ ree or four feet deep, with a bed of sand and pebbles. From this point, travelling up th^e Platte for about ten miles or more e arrived opposite the creek previously alluded to, and, crossing at a shoal ace a short distance above, camped in a grove of cottonwood and illows, at ihe delta formed by tiie confiuence of the two streams. There are several bottoms of very rich soil in this vicinity ; but back om the river the country is rough and hilly. Westward the Sweet Water mountains, distant some ten miles, showed leir craggy peaks, and to tlie north and east the piny crests of the Black ills burst upon the sight ; while southward, a succession of high, rolling ■airies opened to view a variety of romantic and beautiful scenery. 44 I MM tm A Crow Warrior. — Page A riGHT WITH THE SIOUX. 169 We remained at this place the two following days, for the purpose of hunting. Game of all kinds appeared in great abundance, particularly elk. At several points among the willows near tlie river were noticed fresh signs of beaver, and among the hills the recent marks of bear in digging for roots. A large bird called the mountain fowl, quite common to these parts, was the occasion of some httle curiosity, being the first of its species I ev63r saw. This bird is rather larger than our domestic hen, and of a grayish brown color. Little accustomed to the presence of man, it easily falls a prey to the hunter. Its flesh is tender and most excellent in flavor. Having obtained a fresh supply of meat, we resumed our course. Continuing up the right bank of the creek (which I have named Medi cine Bow, for lack of a better term) and travelling by easy stages four successive days, we arrived at its head, — a distance of more than fifty miles above its junction with the Platte. Many beautiful bottoms skirted the banks of this stream, which were well timbered with cottonwood, aspen, birch, willow, box-elder, and some few pines. The soil is generally of a reddish loam, and the luxuriant size of the dead grass, together v/ith the rank verdure of the present season, gave evidence of its richness and fecundity. I was pleased to observe not a few wild flowers, of rare beauty, in full bloom, lending their fragrance to the breath of spring, and blushing at the admiration challenged by their loveliness. On the right lay a broad expanse of undulating prairie, covered with stately clusters of absinthe, and disclosing every variety of soil, from the rude sterility of an African desert to the rich productiveness of a garden ; — on the left, the mountains, increasing in altitude, jutted their craggy sides in close proximity to the creek — now disclosing immense piles of granite, with red argillaceous, grayish micaceous, dark ferruginous, and white calcareous sandstone, limestone, and coarse-grained conglomerates, naked and variegated with almost every diversity of color,-— and now, surmounted by stunted pines and cedars, or towering balsam, hemlock and pinion ; and in front, the lofty peaks of Medicine Bow, rearing their snowy heads beyond the clouds, opposed an eternal barrier to further prospect. As we passed along, I noticed three or four small branches that emptied into the creek from the opposite side, and, just before reaching our present encampment, we crossed three others from the right, all of them well tim- bered and graced by rich valleys and prairillons. . This section of country, being the great war-ground between the Sioux and Chyennes on the one side, and the Snakes and Crows on the other, is considered dangerous, particularly from May till November of each year. During that time it is extremely unsafe for a white man to venture within its confines, unless protected by a strong force. A small creek at our right, became the scene of a bloody tragedy two months subsequent to our visit. Three trappers, with whom I became acquainted upon my return to the Fort, tempted by the abundance of fur-bearing game common to the vicinity, came here for the purpose of making a summer hunt. WluJe succesafuUy pursuing their occupation, unsuspicious of immediate danger 16 170 LAilAMlE PASS. they were suddenly surrounded, early one morning, by a war-party of Sioux, whose first salute was a discharge of fire-arms, accompanied by a shower of arrows and the sharp thunder of deafening yells. Two of them fell dead. The remaining one retreated to a hollow tree, close at hand, into which he crawled ; and, though severely wounded, maintained from it an obstinate resistance till near sundown, — keeping at bay the whole host of savage assailants, and thinning their numbers, one oy one, with the deadly discharge of his unerring rifle. Six warriors lay stiflbned in death, and as many more had felt the burn- ing smart of wounds, — one of the latter having had his tongue shot out, close to its roots ! — and still he continued the unequal contest. His triumph would have been complete had not the remorseless crew, as a last resort, set fire to the woods and burned him from the shell-like for- tress from which they could not drive him. He fell with his companions, mingling his own blood with that of their murderers ; and the scalps of the three were treasured among the horrid trophies of savage victory. Of these unfortunate men, one, named Wheeler, was a Pennsylvanian ; another, named Cross Eagle, was a Swede; and the third, name not re- membered, was a native of France. They were men of noble hearts and much esteemed by all who knew them. In the neighborhood I noticed many indications of coal, of which there appeared to be extensive beds, as well as iron and mineral salts. Continuing on, a short ride brought us to the pass-trail, following which, after travelling a few miles by a road intercepted by frequent ravines be- tween a defile of mountains, we were finally ushered into the broad prairie, opening eastward, known as the Plains of Laramie. The mountains upon both sides were heavily coated with snow, which intruded to the trail, while groves of pine and aspen reheved the eye in Bcanning their rough escarpments. The prevailing rock appeared to be a compact red granite, with occasional strata of sandstone. While winding among the ravines and aspen groves, we obtained an in distinct view of a strange-looking, dark-colored animal, that my companions pronounced a " carcague.^^ Of the character, or even the existence of such a creature, I cannot speak from positive knowledge — ^this, if one, not being sufficiently near for a scrutinizing observation, and no other of its kind ever came in my way ; but, in answer to inquiries, I am enabled to give the following description, — for the correctness of which, however, I will not vouch, though, for my own part, inclined to accredit it. - The " carcague " is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and of a family and species found in no other part of the world as yet known. He seems a distinct genus, partaking the mixed nature of the wolf and bear, but is far more ferocious than either. His color is a jet black, hair long and coarse, and body trim and slender. His head and neck are like those of a wolf, but his tail and feet assimilat* he bear, and his bodv presents the marked qualities and appearance of both* A 8URPRI81L in In iize, he is considerably larger than the common cur-dog, and is mors agile in his movements. Unlike the bear, he will not ran from the presence or scent of man, and regards the " lord of creation " with neither fear nor favor. Hence he is looked upon as a creature much to be dreaded by all who are anywise conversant with his character and existence. The representatives of his family are seldom met witli, which alTords tlie principal reason why so little, comparatively, is known of his nature and habits. If the information contained in the above description is correct, (and that it is so, I have not the least doubt,) the "carcague" presents, either the ex- traordinary phenomenon of the creation of a new race of wild beasts, or, the living relics of an order now almost extinct; and, whether he be the one or tiie other, his existence is vested with deep interest to all lovers of the marvellous. All old trapper related the following story, soon after the incident above nrti^.ed, which will serve to give some idea of this ferocious animal : A p^ -ty of hunters, at thair night camp, were seated around a large fire, at wlio-^ i side were fixed several pieces of meat, en appolas, for the purpose of roa? ing. All were waiting patiently the kind office of the fire in the preparation of their longed-for suppers, when, attracted by the fumes of the cooking viands, a " carcague " came bounding from the mountain-side, directly over their heads, and made for the roasts, with which he disappeared before even a shot could be fired in their defence. Thus bold and daring is their nature, and so little is their regard for the presence of man. Bearing southward, in the course of a few miles wo came to a large creek, and camped early in the afternoon, near the base of a lofly mountain of the Medicine Bow range. In this vicinty were the relics of three Indians forts. On the banks of the stream was an abundance of timber of various kinds ; the bottoms were broad and of a rich soil, shut in by abrupt accHvities that lead to the arid plains through which the creek traces its way. Game appeared in great abundance in all directions, and seemed more than usually tame and accessible. Soon after camping, three of us went in quest of a fresh supply of eat- ables, and, towards night, returned with the choice portions of a bufialo and a blacik-tailed dear. The valley also afforded large quantities of wild onions, which wert •liooting forth with singular luxuriance. We passed tht night in quiet slumber, neither of us dreaming of the possible existence of human beings, other than ourselves, within a less distance than one hundred miles. In the morning, however, we were awakened by the wild yell of savages, and, on looking to ascertain the cause, saw a dense throng of painted monsters surrounding us, who were whooping, screeching, and dancing in a most terrific and fantastic manner. Seizing our guns, we levelled at tha foremost of them, who immediately sheathed their bows and made the siga •f friendship and their oation. 172 A TEMPERANCE NATION. They were Crows, and, having discovered us the afternoon before, noT» came tor a morning call. The chief of the band bore the name of Little Robber, and was a large> portly, well-made man, as, in fact, were all his party. He was recognized by one of us as an old acquaintance, and was greeted as such, when several of his people came forward to shake hands, and we were soon on most friendly terms. They informed us, by means of signs, that they were advancing against the Sioux, and their village was encamped upon a neighboring creek, a little to the right, — after which they insisted upon our accompanying them to it. Not waiting for further ceremony, they drove up our horses and com menced saddling them. Supposing it useless to resist, we yielded compli ance to their wishes, and, in about an hour's ride, came to the village Here we were inducted to the chief's lodge, where commenced a series oi feastings peculiar to Indians on occasions hke this. The Crows are a nation living upon the waters of the Yellow-st iMe, al a distance of about four hundred miles west-northwest of Fort I 'latte. Their number embraces not far from four hundred and fifty or Ave hundred lodges, being something near four thousand men, women, and children. Ten or twelve years since they were enemies to the whites, but, more recently, have been pn friendly terms. They never kill or injure the white man who comes within their power, and rarely take from him anything without returning for it an equivalent. For instance, — they may take his robe, horse, or gun ; biir, in that case, they will return another robe, horse, or gun ; acting upoii the principle that " exchange is no robbery," even though it be compulsory. Less contaminated by intercourse with the whites than most mountain tribes, they will tolerate the importation of liquor among them upon no con- sideration, not even by traders for their own individual use. Whenever it is ascertained that any one in their vicinity, whether white man or Indian, is in possession of that article, they take it from him, if necessary, by force, and pour it upon the ground. Their bitter hatred of this vile stuff, is said to have resulted in the fol- lowing strange manner : The whites, as usual, came first among them bringing alcohol; and, at a feast given to the chiefs, soon after, several of the latter became intoxicated from too lavish potations of the new and curious drink. In common with inebriates of civilized society, they acted very foolishly, and, on appearing before their people, the drunken chiefs became the suo- ject of ridicule. This so shamed them, that, upon the return of sobriety, they could not be persuaded to taste another drop, and thereafter made use of their iinitcd influence to prevent its introduction and sale. Ever since the above occurrence, alcohol has received, from tlie Crows, the appellation of " FooVs Water" a term at once attesting their nice moral discernment and good sense. Several years since, a missionary, on visiting them, began throuffh kn interpreter to rehearse the stoiy how sin first came into the world| tod how al men had become bad — ^whether white or rod* THE CROW CHIEF MAKING A SPEECH. - PaiT* HS- CROW WAR PARTY. I'?6 Thus premised, he proceeded to explain the great truths of Chrhf tianity, and averred that he had come to do them good, and to tell ihem how to be happy; asserting that, unless they listened to him and wor- shipped the Good Spirit in the manner he pointed out, they could never, at death, reach that happy country into which good people alone find admittance. One of the chiefs upon this arose and made the following reply: " My white brother is a stranger to us. He talks bad of us, and he talki bad of his own people. " He does this because he is ignorant. He thinks my people, like his, are wicked. Thus far he is wrong ! " Who were tliey that killed the very good man of whom he tells us ? None of them were red men ! " The red man will die for good men, who are his friends ; — he will not kill them ! " Let my pale-face brother talk to the white man — his own people — they are very bad. He says, he would do us good ! He does no good to chide us and say we are very bad. " True we are bad ; and were we bad as the pale-faces it would become us to listen to him ! " Would my brother do us good ? Then, let him tell us how to make powder and we will believe in the sincerity of his professions ; — but let him not belie us by saying we are bad like the pale-faces !" These Indians rarely kill the women and children of an enemy when in their power, and, in this particular, they show themselves unhke most of the wild tribes found on the American continent. They are a brave and noble people, prosecuting their endless hostihties against the Sioux and Blackfeet, (the only nations with whom they are at variance,) not so much to gratify an innate love for war, as from a just hatred of the meanness of those they war against In the summer of 1842, a war-party of some two hundred Crows inva^ ded the Sioux country by way of Laramie pass, and penetrated as far as Fort Platte, and beyond, in pursuit of their enemy. A few miles above the Fort, having met with a' lone French engage, who was rather green in all that pertains to Indians as well as some other tilings, they began by signs to enquire of him the whereabouts of the La- cotas, (the sign for them being a transverse pass of the right front-finger across tlie throat.) The poor Frenchman, mistaking this for the avowed intention of cutting his throat, commenced bellowing a la calf, accompanying the music by an industrious appliance of crosses in double-quick time — not forgetting to make use of sundry most earnest invocations of the blessed Virgin to gim- cionsly vouchsafe to him deliverance from impending danger. The Indians, perceiving his strange conduct to be the result of fear, fch disposed to have a little fun at his expense; so, mounting him upon ahorse, they bound his hands and feet and guarded him to a post of the Ame"' can Fur Company as a prisoner. 170 PLAINS OF LARAMIB. The Fort gates being closed against them, they demanded admitttDM oa the plea of wishing to trade. " What would you buy ?" asked the commandant "Tobacco." " What have you brought to pay for it ?" " A white man." '* A white man ?" exclaimed the former ; ** at what price?" " Oh, he is not worth much. A plug of tobacco in his full value !" con- tinued tiie warriors. The commandant now began to understand the joke ; and, on recognizing the prisoner as an employee of the other Fort, he told them they might possibly find a market for him at the next post, but for his own part he was not disposed to purchase. The Indians then paraded around the Fort, and, after saluting its in- mates with three deafening whoops, proceeded at full charge towards Fort Platte. When arrived, having prostrated two scaffolds of dead Sioux by the way, they informed the person in charge, that they had brought back one of his men, and claimed from him a plug of tobacco for their trouble. The circumstances attending this request were of so comical a nature, the commandant felt disposed to humor the joke, and gave the tobacco, upon which they immediately left in pursuit of their enemies. Having remained prisoners to the hospitality of these Indians for two days and a half, we were at length permitted again to resume our journey. Following the creek downwards for the two days next succeeding, and then bearing to the left, after a ride of some twelve miles, we struck Lara- mie river at a point which presented broad bottoms upon each side v\ ith an abundance of timber ; here we remained encamped till the subsequent day. In journeying thus far, we passed over a sufficient extent of this broad expanse to give a general description of it, from personal observation coup- led with information derived from others more experienced. The Plains of Laramie are bounded north and east by the Black Hills, south by a ridge of naked elevations, (composed of soft, arenaceous rock and terrene Umestone, embedded m marl and white clay, sterile and almost entirely destitute of vegetation,) and west by the Medicine Bow Moun- tains. This section includes an area one hundred and sixty miles long by seventy broad. The northern portion of it is a high plateau, almost destitute of springs or streams of water, having a mixed soil of clay and sand, producing the grass and other peculiarities incident to the grand prairies. Westerly, It is composed of red sand and gravel, tolerably fertile and abundant in rocl^ fragments. The southern portion is watered by a number of streams that rise in the Medicine Bow Mountains and flow eastward ; some of them pouring their Mraters into Laramie river, and others losing themselves in the sand. Towajtla the southwestern extremity, at the base of a lofty, isolated wonntaini it a salt lake of considerable dimensioDB. Several c^er Iake« INCIDENTA.L REMARKS. HI m tiao fonnd adjacent to the Medicine Bow Mountains, whose watcn •re Btrongly impregnated with mineral salts. In numerous places the surface, for small distances, is entirely naked and whitened with saline efflorescences, that vie in their appearance with the unspotted purity of fresh-fallen snow. The Laramie river * traces its way through the whole extent, — rising in the soutliern extremity of the Medicine*Bow Mountains and in the desolate highlands that form the dividing ridge between its own and the waters of C^che a la Poudre, and, after flowing a distance of some three hundred miles, discharges itself into the Platte. Upon this river and its branches are many beautiful bottoms of rich al- luvial soil, well adapted to cultivation, varying from five to ten miles it length, and from two to five in breadth. These bottoms are to some ex tent well supplied with timber, consisting of ash, elm, cottonwood, box- elder, and willow, while the adjacent mountains and hills aflTord pine, cedar, and balsam. Of the various kinds of wild fruits and berries are found cherries, plums, currants, gooseberries, service*berries, buflTalo-berries, and some few grapes ; among its vegetables and roots are the bread-root, pomme blanc, onions, and commote. Its prevailing rock is sandstone, (gray micaceous, brown argillaceous, red granitic, and ferruginous,) limestone, (siliceous, testaceous, fossiUfer- ous, and terrene,) and red granite, with various conglomerates and heavy boulders of fragmentary and transition rock. Among the mineral productions incident to this region are salt, sulphur, Boda, magnesia, nitre, alum, coal, iron, copper, and gold, (the latter only in small quantities.) Among its game is embraced nearly every variety found in countries adjacent to the mountains. The high prairies sldrting the tributaries of the Laramie, though favored with many valleys of fertile soil, are fit only for grazing purposes, on ac- count of their general aridity and scarcity of water ; a fault, by the way, too common witli a large proportion of that vast extent of territory from the neighborhood of our western frontiers almost to the very shores of the Pacific. •Thin river received its present name from one Joseph Laramie, a French ini{»^ «r, who waa killed near its mouth, several years since, by the Indians. 178 CHAPTER XVI. SMIeVhole— Novel bitters.— Chugwater.— Gold.— Curiosity.— AflSiirs at th© Fort. — Amusements. — Gambling among squaws, and games played. — Squaw diceses, and riding fashion. — Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent On resuming our course, we soon after struck into a lodge-trail leading to the Platte by way of Sibille's creek ; — following this we travelled over an undulating and sandy prairie for about ten miles, and came to a chain of rugged mountains, bearing from north to south, through which we pas- sed, by a tedious and circuitous route, for a considerable distance, winding among rocks and narrow defiles of naked hills, till we were finally ushered into a beautiful opening facing the east, known as Sibille's-hole. Tills valley is situated at the confluence of two small streams, heading in the adjoining mountains, that unite to form Sibille's creek. It is shut in upon three sides by lofty ridges, many hundred feet high, consisting of immense piles of earthy limestone and marl, whose rough, naked sides, ornamented with occasional dwarf-pines, cedars, or fruit-bear- ing shrubs, present a wild and romantic scenery. The valley is four or five miles in length and of variable width, with a strong, black soil, afTording a goodly supply of timber. The season was further advanced in this than in any other place we had yet visited. Several specimens of wild flowers were in full bloom, beladiiig the soft air with their sweetest odors. The grass too had attained a height of some three inches, and furnished a most sumptuous entertainment for our jaded animals, which they were nowise backward to accept. Wishing to afford them an opportunity to recruit their strength, we re mained encamped the two following days. During tlie interval we were successful in killing two very fat bulls, and were thus enabled to renew the series of feasting which had graced the greater part of our journey. I here became for the first time acquainted with a kind of beverage ver} common among mountaineers. The article alluded to may with much pro- priety be termed " bitters," as the reader will readily acknowledge on learn- ing tiie nature of its principal ingredient. It is prepared by the following simple process, viz : with one pint of water mix one-fourth gill of buflalo-gall, and you will then have oefore you a wholesome and exhilarating driiSf. To a stomach unaccustomed to its use it may at first create a slightly wiaome leiiMtioii, like the inceptive efiecta of an emetio ; and, to on« CHUGWATER. 179 strongly bilious, it might cause vomiting ; — but, on the second or third trial, the stomach attains a taste for it, and receives it with no inconsiderable relish. Upon the whole system its effects are beneficial. As a stimulent, ii braces the nerves without producing a corresponding relaxation on the ces- sation of its influence ; it also tends to restore an impared appetite and in- vigorate the digestive powers. As a sanative, it tends to make sound an irritated and ulcerated stomach, reclaiming it to a healthful and lively tone, and thus striking an effective blow at that most prolific source of so large a majority of the diseases common to civilzed life. From what I have seen of its results, I consider it one of the most inno cent and useful medicines in cases of dyspepsy, and will hazard the further opinion, that, were those laboring under the wasting influences of this dis- ease to drink gall-hitiers and conmie themselves exclusively to the use of some one kind of diet, (animal food always preferable,) thousands who are now pining away by piecemeal, would be restored to jperfect soundness^ and snatched from the very threshold of a certain gj-ave vjhich yawns to receive them! Resuming our course, we continued down Sibillis creek to its junction with the Laramie ; then, following the course of that river, in the afternoon of the third day we arrived at Fort Platte, after an absence of nearly two months, — having travelled, in the interval, a distance of more than live hundred miles. To give a general description of the country passed over during the concluding part of our journey, would seem too much like a recapitulation of previous remarks. Onr observations in reference to the river and creek bottoms, may be again correctly applied ; as may, also, those relative to the timber, and the geological character of the adjoining prairies. Several miles above the Fort we crossed the Chugwater, a large affluent of the Laramie, from the right. This creek takes its rise in a wild and desolate section of the Black iliils, near the head of Horse creek. Thirty miles or more of its way is traced through a dreary wilder- v^ess of rock, sand, and clay, almost entirely devoid of vegetation. This re^rion, it is said, affords gold ; and, " indeed, I have received fre- quent assurances that that valuable metal has been procured, in small par- ticles, from among the sand of the creek-bed. This region also claims many natural curiosities, of which 1 may take occasion to speak more particularly hereafter ; — one, however, situated upon Chugwater, here seems more appropriately to demand a passing notice. It consists of a columnar elevation of sandstone and marl, towering aloft to the height of several hundred feet, like the lone chimney of some razed ma.nsion, — standing as the melancholy monument of the ruins that surround it. This singular pile of rock and earth is nearly of a quadrangular form, quite regular in its structtn-e, and compares very nearly with the " ChJia> A** FEMALE GAMBLERS. ney " below Scot's Bluff, in its general outlines. It stands within a short distance of the east bank of the Chugv/ater, and gives the creek its present name.* Our arrival at the Fort dated the 26th of April. The boat being com- pleted, all things, save the spring rise, were in readiness for the intended voyage. This craft was put together in regular ship-shape, and finished in a workman-like manner. She measured fifty feet Iceel by thirteon beam, and, without her lading, drew but an inch and a half of water. Her intended burthen was between two and three tons. While admiring her beauty and symetry, little did I think of the siifferings in store for me with her hardy crew. Several important changes had taken place during onr absence. The Port with its fixtures now claimed different owners, and was occupied by the men of two companies besides our own. This swelled the present number to some forty or fifty, and afforded quite a lively scene. Now was an interval of leisure to all liands, and the time, unemployed in eating and sleeping, was passed in story-telling, ball-playing, foot-racing, target-shooting, or other like amusements. Several, forming tliemselves into a club for forensic debate, secured a prolific source of entertainment, for the time being. A partner in one of the trading firms, whose men were now stationed at tlie Fort, made him- self quite conspicuous as a participator in these discussions. He was very self-important and conceited, and not a little ignorant withal, and with regard to temperance, being uniformly about " three sheets in the wind," and the other JiuUering, his spoutings were an ex- haustless fund of laughter. At his request, in order to render the exercises more spiritedy the merits of tlie arguments presented were decided upon by a conunittee of three, and the speakers decided against, sentenced to liquorize the club. The treating, however, was always on one side ; for, as the whole busi- ness was an aflfafr of sport, the committee of arbitration generally had this primary object in view while pronouncing their decisions. When these were averse to our orator, he of course paid the forfeit as an affair of debt ; and when favorable to him, he was equally prompt in proferring a common treat, exultatory upon his fancied success. My own part in this performance was that of a mere looker-on, but it required of one more than my usual self-mastery, to retain his gravity under the potent influences of so ludicrous an exhibition. Other matters of interest, however, occurred ai this time, and, as they tend to throw some light upon Indian habits and customs, perhaps the reader will not look upon it as altogether out of place for rae to notice them. ♦ The word " Chug " implies chimney ; of the derivation of the tenn, however, I am ignorant. SQUAW FASHIONS. 181 At the two Forts in this neighborhood were some ten or twelve squaws married to the traders and engages of the diflerent far companies. These, ladies were in the liabit of meeting, occasionally, for gambling purposes. In this they acted as systematically as the most experienced black legs of a Mississippi steamboat; if they fr.iled to play as liigh, it was only for the lack of means. Ball-playing was one of the games upon which heavy bets were made. The instrument used in this amusement consisted of two globular forms, about two inches each in diameter, which were attached by a short string. The j)lay-ground was the open prairie in front of the Fort, and embraced an area of nearly a mile in extent. As the initiatory step, each party, composed of equal numbers, selected an equal amount of valuables, consisting of beads, scarlet, vermilion, rings, awls, shells, &c., which were placed in two piles about half a mile apart, and equi-distant between them was placed the ball. Each gamestress, armed with her club, then repaired to the spot, and the opposing parties arrayed themselves, the one facing the other with the ball between them. At a given signal they all strike — the one party striving to propel it towards its own valuables, and the other to force it in a contrary direction. The party pro- pelling it to its own pile, wins, and becomes entitled to both. As success in this game depends more upon fleetness of foot than skill in striking, a large party of squaws, thus engaged, opens to the beholder a rich scene of amusement. Another game is still more extensively practised among them. This is somewhat upon the principle of dice, though different in its details. Six plum-stones, smoothly polished, and marked with various parallel, triangular, and transverse lines, are thrown loosely iato a small, plate-Hke basket, around which the players are seated with their stores of trin- kets. The leader then receives the basket in one hand, and, briskly mov- ing it to change the position of the dice, suddenly strikes it upon the ground, tossing the plum-stones from their places and catching them in their descent. The amount won depends upon the number of triangular and transverse lines left uppermost. The loser, having paid the forfeit, next takes the basket and describes the same movements, receives her winnings in like manner, and returns it to her opponent, — and so on alternately. Much cheating and trickery are practised in this game. The game of hand, for a description of wliich the reader is referred to a previous marginal note, is also a favorite play with squaws as well as men. Large parties of both sexes not unfrequoitly engage in tJiis amusement, and many a poor Indian loses his all by the operation. Speaking of squaws reminds me of not having previously described their dress and appearance. The dress of a squaw is scarcely less simple than that of an Indian. Two pieces of skin, sewed together in a bag;-]ike form, (of sufficient sizt to envelope the body from neck to knee, leaving an aperture for the formti 16 182 INTfiRESTlNG TO ANTIQUARIANS. with the arms,) constitute her gown, which is completed by two othet pieces of skin sewed from neck to waist so as to fall loosely upon the arms as far as the elbow ; then, with leggins of thin deer or antelope skin, garnished moccasins, and a painted robe, you have before you the full rig of a mountain squaw. Some of the younger ones, however, flaunt dresses quite tastefully orna- mented, with full capes and fringe-works, garnished with beads and porcu- pine-quills, that present a wild, fantastic appearance, not altogether es- tranged to beauty. A squaw prides herself much upon the number of rings in her ears and upon her fingers, as well as the taste displayed in plaiting her hair and beautifying her face. Women, in savage alike with civilized life, are vested with a good sup- ply of pride and vanity in their composition, — all, fond of show and gaudy equipage. But the mountain squaw, next to ornaments, displays the most vanity in the gay caparison of her riding horse, and the splendid trappings of his saddle. Both of them are fancifully garnished with beads and paint, and bestrung with various trinkets, that impart a tinkling sound, as they strike each other at every movement, and fill the rider's ears with that wild and simple music so consonant to her feelings and thoughts. Men and women practise the same mode of riding, (astride,) and a squaw is as much at home on horseback as the most experienced cavalier. This fashion is properly considered unbecoming for ladies of civilized countries ; yet, improper as it may seem, it is quite common with the ladies of New Mexico. As my subsequent travels in the countries bordering upon the Rocky Mountains preclude the opportunity of speaking connectedly of the Sioux nation, I cannot forego the present occasion for presenting to the curious, some few items relative to the language of these Indians, that tend to shed no small amount of fight upon the ancient history of tlie American conti- nent. There are several remarkable peculiarities in the Sioux language, that cannot fail to prove interesting and satisfactory, so far as they go, to all lovers of antiquarian research. The first of these consists in the striking similarity observable in its general structure to that of the ancient Romans, when the two are care- fully compared with each other. In regard to the arrangement of words and the construction of sen- tences, they are both governed by the same fixed laws of euphony, irre- spective of the relative position otherwise maintained by tiie different parts of speech. It Vv'ill be observed that the leading purpose of the speak- er of either language is, to avoid a harsh and inharmonious intermingling of words, such as would grate upon the ear when pronounced in an ab- rupt connection ; and, by so doing, to give a smooth and musical turn to the expression of his ideas. The few brief sentences, hereto subjoined in the same order as they oc •nr in tlie original, accompanied by the translation of each word as it ap- pear!, will serve to illustrate tiiis matter more fully : COMPARISON OF LANGUAGES. 183 LATIN. Invictum animi robur ostensit. Invincible of mind strength he displayed. Omnia delicarum instnimenta e All of delicacies tlie intruments from castris ejecit. camp he cast. Non amo nimium diligeutes. Not I love overmuch tJie careful. SIOUX. Tepe nea-tour toocta ? Lodge your own where is it 1 Mea warchee muzarka nea-tour. I want gun your own. Kokepa warneclie wecharcha ha, Afraid nothing the man is. Minewarka appello warktaslme ha Medicine- water I say not good is. . A mere glance at the foregoing will at once show the constructional eimilarity between the two ; and, to illustrate the proposition still farther, I nere subjoin yet other proofs of a more important relationship : LATIN. Appello, (pres. ind., 1st per. sing.; inf. appellare,) I declare^ I proclaim. Bestia, a wild beast. Caeca, uncertain^ ambiguous^ confu- sed^ rash. Cogor, 0716 who collects^ brings togeth- er, compels, forces, or heaps up. Mea, (mens, a, um.) of or belonging tome. Mena, a narroto sharp fish. Ne, (this when affixed to a word or a sentence gives it a negative signi- fication,) no, not. Papae, rare, excellent, wonderful. Pater, father. Pes, the foot. Taurus, a bull. Tepor, warmth. Tuor, (tui, tutus sum,) to look, to see. SIOUX. Appello, I declare, I proclaim, I tell, I make known. Beta, a buffalo. Ceicha, bad, disorderly, unsound. Cogor, a maker of anything, a manu' facturer, one loho produces a thing by an ingenious arrangement ^ materials. Mea, I, myself, me. Mena, a knife. Ne, (this word is used precisely the same as in Latin, and has a similar meaning,) not. Papa, meat, flesh used for food. Pater, fire. Pea, the foot. Tau, (or tab,) a bull. Tepe, a lodge. Tula, (astonishment,) look! see there! I might pursue tliis comparison to a yet greater extent, were ray know- ledge of Sioux sufficiently full and critical for the task, (for I have a firm confidence that mririy other similarities might be pointed out, quite as glar- ing in their character as any of the above ;) but, enough, I trust, has al- ready been said to fortify the position so largely warranted by the pre- (nises, to wit : that in former ages the Romans maintained a foothold upon the American continent, and had inlercourse with this nation, either by arms cr by commerce. The argument drawn from the foregoing is still furtlier strengthened, when we take into consideration the fact, that language is constantly vary- ing in its form, and changing the meaning and pronunciation of its words, as time progi-esses. To exemplify this more clearly and forcibly, let the reader compare the works of standard English authors of the present day with those of the like not more than five imndred years since, and he will feadily acknowledge the palpable indications of progressive c twinge. IM TEH A0MA5S IN AXEIUCJL If 10 ihort an interval has produced a transformation so bold in awrittei language, what might we look for in one spoken only ? But, an interval of three times five hundred years has passed since the Romans and the Sioux held intercourse with each other, and we yet find the general structure of the two languages strikingly similar, and several of their words identical in meaning and pronunciation ! And, though th« latter observation fails in some cases, even this, so far from proving any- thing averse to the position before assumed, serves to strengthen it. The word pater, for instance, pronounced alike in both languages, dif« fers in signification ; being used in the one to imply father^ in the otner fire. This apparent discrepancy of meaning may be explained in a few words. The Sioux are accustomed to venerate the sun as one of the more especial manifestations of tiie Divine Essence, who is regarded as the FATHER or creator of all things ; and it, being the great source of light and heat, is naturally looked upon as an immense body of fire. Thus, in the course of ages, the term became perverted in its meaning and applica- tion, and, instead of being used to express the sun, or Great Spirit, the father of all, it now only imphes the simple element of fire, an emanation from the sun. So in relation to the Latin word tepor, warmth^ and the Sioux word tepe, a lodge. The lodge is employed in winter to retain the heat within itself, and exclude the cold air; nor is it wonderful that, in the progress of years, the term tejpor, or iejpe, should become the only one by which a lodge is known. The word mena, is also pronounced ttie same in both, though different in its signification ; meaning, in Latin, a narrow sharp fish, and, in Sioux, a knife. In explanation of this, I would barely refer to the similarity of shape between a knife and a narrow sharp fish. The relationship disclosed between these two languages is seemingly too close and significant to be attributed to mere chance or accident, and can be in no other way satisfactorily accounted for, than by admitting the correctness of the premises before quoted. But this position, curious as it may seem to some readers, and impreg- nable as it must doubtless prove, has other weapons to protect it at com- mand ; and, ere dismissing the subject, I will briefly notice some of them. It is by no means a conjecture of recent origin, that the ancient Romans did actually colonize portions of the American continent. The industri- ous researches of antiquarians have long since brought to light many items which prove and strengthen it, tliough none of tliem so tangible and obvi- ous as those previously noticed. Several obscure hints of the existence of extensive Roman colonies planted westward of the Pillars of Hercules, (doubtless alluding to the American continent,) have been detected in the writings of ancient authors yet extant; but still further proof is affi)rded in the relics of temples, cities, roaie, and fortified camps, long since discovered in Peru, Mexico, and the United States, which strongly savor of Roman origin. The ancient works at Marietta, Ohio, have been regarded, by not a few, as the offiipringof Roman industry and military t^cience, — and various other remains, that signahze the Mississippi valley, point quite plainly to thii jMtion for a parentage. But a proof, still more conclusive than any yet ad- W£ EMBARK. IW dnced, is aflbrded by the discovery of a genuine Roman coin, in the Stats of Missouri, several years since. T'ddug all these corroborative circumstances in connection, the fact that Roman colonies did exist, to some extent, upon this continent in past ages, must be regarded as •placed beyond successful controversy. CHAPTER XV IL Singular «xhibition of natural afiection.— Embark for the States.— Scarcity of pt^ visions and consequent hardship and suffering. — Extraordinary daring of wolves.— Difficulties of navigation. — Novel diet.— Fishing. — A fish story, and another ts match it.— A bull story.— Hard aground and dismal situation. — Extreme exposure.— Cold, hungry, and Wvis.— Again afloat.— Re-supply of provisions.— Camp on fire.-~ A picture of Platte navigation.— Country north of river. — Adventure with a bull.— Indian benevolence.- -Summary of liardships and deprivations.— Abandon voyage. Soon after oui return, one of the hunters came in from a short excursion followed by a bufialo calf, which appeared as tame and docile as if always accustomed to the presence of man. This incident first brought to my knowledge a remarkable peculiarity in the nature of these animals, — viz : the strength of affection existing between the mother and her offspring. The buffalo will never desert her calf, except in cases of imminent danger, and then, never for a long time ; — she is certain to return promptly in search of it, even at tlie hazard of her own life. The calf, on the other hand, exhibits an equal, or rather superior, love for its mother. If she, to whom he owes his birth, falls a prey to the relentless hunter, he deserts her not, but lingers near her lifeless carcase, till the butcher-knife performs its office, and tlie reeking flesh belades the pack-horse ; — nor then, even, does he leave her. As the honored relics are borne away, he not unfrequently follows on, mournfully, regardless of aught else, as if saying, " Where thou goest let me go, and now thou art dead, I would live no longer." There is some- thing toucliirigly beautiful in such exhibitions of natural affection on the part of dumb brutes. May 1th. Availing ourselves of a slight rise of water, we embarked on our meditated voyage to the States. The boat was freighted with some sixty packs* of robes, and provisions for four weeks. A barge belonging to another company, also in readiness, started with us, and we all flattered ourselves witli the hope of a speedy and pleasant trip. The two boats numbered a united crew of eleven men, — mine ccuia^ ing of five, and that of our consort counted six. m NOT TO BE ENVIED. Slipping cable, we glided midway of the stream, and gave a parting salute to the friends who lined the shore, accompanied by a loud hurra and waving of hats, deeply responded to by them, — and even tears coursed their way a down the dusky visages of our voyageurs, when mindful of the fate separating tliem — perhaps forever ! The crews now struck up a merry song, while the dripping oars, as they ■pumed the crystal waters, responded their time in measured strokes. As we passed swiftly along and were fast receding from within hailing distance of the Fort, an old mountaineer, who stood gazing upon us, ex- claimed, " Ah, boys ; you can sing now, but your tune will be altered ere- long !" This strange announcement, though a riddle at the time of its utterance, soon began to more than verify itself, and often did we repeat the remark, " Well, sure enough, our tune has changed." Moving along prettily during the day — sometimes floating with the cur- rent then again plying oars, — we reached the mouth of Horse creek ; and, passing on a short distance, lay to for the night. The day following we again pushed off; but, after proceeding ten or twelve miles, tiio water became so shallow, we were compelled to lay by to await a further rise, and struck camp in a small grove of cottonwood upon the right bank of the Platte, a s'hort distance above Scott's Bluff. Here we remained for some two weeks. The crew of our consort being poorly supplied with provisions, we divided our own with them, and, at the expiration of a few days, were left entirely destitute. From this on, we were depf3ndent solely upon such game as chance threw in our way, — sometimes starving for tvv'o or three days, and then feasting for a hke interval, upon the products of successful hunting. To us was a tedious lot, — there being no game in the country, save per- chance a few straggling bulls, and they rarely within less distance than ten or twelve miles. Our hunting excursions often led further than that, and when we were so fortunate as to kill, the proceed;, were borne upon our Dacks to camp. We became so accue-tomed to packing in this manner, it was thought no extra burthen for an individual to carry upwards of a hundred pounds of fresh meat at a ^angie load, some ten or twelve successive miles, over an open, sandy prairie, and beneath the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun. So far from regarding it a task, we esteemed it a pleasure, and were glad to appease the cravings of appetite even at so small a sacrifice of comfort and convenience. The reason for the scarcity of all kinds of game in the vicinity of the river at tliis time, was tl-e recent biuning of the prairie upon both sides, for many miles back, leaving not even the vestige of vegetation for the subsistence of any graminivorous animals. This we found to be the case nearly the entire distance to the forks. During the latter part of our stay at this camp, it rained almost inces- santly ; we also encountered a severe snow storm. The winds were usually high, and frequently blew with humcane>vio Itnee. FISH STORIES. 187 A pack of hungry wolves, attracted by the scent of camp, were oij! regular nocturnal visitors, and proved a constant source of annoyance. Or one occasion they carried off a bake-kettle to a distance of several huiuircd yards ; — at another time, they took away a tin-pan. whicli we never after- wards recovered ; — and, stranger yet, one night these piratical pests stole a fur cap from off my head while I was sleeping, and in the morning, after a diligent search, no trace of it could be found. The river having slightly risen,' we again loosed cable, and, after toiling all day, and tugging with might and main, by hand-spikes and levers, — twisting, screwing, and lifting, now in water up to our necks, and now on dry sand-bars, we succeeded in dragging, or rather carrying, our craft for a distance of about five miles, and again lay oy for four succeeding days to await a still further rise. Upon the opposite side of the river was a bald-eagle's nest, with two half- grown fledgelings. One of our party, ascending the tree, captured tiie young ones, and we had a fine meal from their carcases. A wood-duck's nest, containing some twelve eggs, near by, afforded a seasonable repast,— and, in hunting for game, wo came upon the nest of a wild goose, as weU as those of numerous ravens among the neighboring cottonwoods and wil- lows, which we subjected to such forced contributions as appetite demanded. A portion of the interval was employed in fishing, but with poor success, the fish of the Platte being nearly all of them small, and not very plentiful even, at tliat. An old Franco-Canadian, of our crew, here favored us with, perhaps, a little the biggest fish story of any told at the present day. He had been down the Missouri on several occasions in boats connected with the fur trade. On one of these voyage.^, while in the act of reacliing over the boat-side for a drink of water, he dropped his cup, which imme- diately sank to the bottom of the river and was lost. Three years afterwards he again passed the same place, with hooks and lines attached to the boat-stern for the purpose of catching fish as he glided along. A large cat-fish, attracted by the tempting bait borne upon the hook, greedily swallowed it, and, in a trice, found himself translated to a new and strange element. The creature was so heavy, it took two men to pull him into the boat, while his gigantic proportions astonished all beholders. But the most surprising thing was revealed on opening him ; — there, snugly stowed away in one corner of the monster's capacious maw, repo- sed tJie identical cup our voyageur had lost, three years before, with hii name and the date marked upon it ! " Pooh ! Gumbo," said an old sailor, " I can beat such stories as that,all day. " Why, fellow, on my last trip from Liverpool to New York, a shark followed the ship for a long time, picldng up such bits of bread and meat as were thrown into the sea. * Our steward was a very careless fellow, and, in shaking the table- cloth, he would frequently drop overboard the knives and forks and spoona uid rtceived from the captain several floggings on that account He wai 188 B1MXETSIN A BVtL. ftven accused of stealing them, but strongly protested his innocence of th# latter charge. " Among our passengers was an old whaleman, who, being very expert m the use of the harpoon, took it into his head one day to victimize the Bhark. After several ineffectual attempts, he finally succeeded in forcing his instrument through the monster's vitals, and drew the lifeless carcase alongside. "The piratical cruiser was so thundering big, it took eight men with tackles to raise it on board ; — it must have weighed at least sixteen hun- dred pounds ! The body of the greedy creature was then laid upon deck, and on opening it all were astonished ! What do you think was foundj Gumbo ?'^ " Sacre sharp ! Certes me tink dey fine de spoon, de fork an de knife ♦ Him shark no follow de ship for nottin." " Well, boys, what do you all suppose was found ?" '* Indeed, we could'nt say." " Guess," '•• The knives and sp(X)ns, of course,' '• You are wrong, to a man." - " What, in the name of reason, could it have been ? Do tell — we give it up." "tiang me, if you aint a bright set of fellows! — Can't guess a thing so easy ? Why, if I must tell you — 'twas guts, — only guts — nothing in ;• le world but giUs .'" " Look here, Jack," said one of the listeners, advancing towards him hat * 1 hand, " you can take this. We'U be quite likely to remember hereafter ' lat fish generally carry their guts inside !" Tiie old Frenchman looked rather crest-fallen at the curious manner in /hich his extraordinary fish story had been matched, — but felt little dis- osed to yield his laurels witlioiit au effort to retrieve them, — so, calling to ' id his recollections of the marvellous, he again commenced. Several years ago, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, ur hero and another man were sent expresses to a distant post It was r. 'inter; and they travelled on foot, depending for daily subsistence upon ffuch game as chance brought in their way. Their course lay through an open and cheerless prairie, covered with snow, and the journey occupied iiearly a month. Having been en route some five or six days, their ammunition began t© fail in the item of lead, — and only two bullets were left. Their condition now became extremely desperate, as there was no way of procuring a re-supply,-— -and anticipated starvation stared them in the face. Determined to eat as long as the means of subsistejice remained, their last balls were shot away in killing a bufiulo bull. After furnishing them- selves from his carcase with a large supply of meat for present and future use, our hero proceeded to cut a few locks of hair from off the creature's head, for the purpose of stuffing his moccasins. **BorDieu! Vat you tink me fine? You no can tell all day ! Me no fuk yoQ gnesB. Bon Dieu ! c'etre admirable. Me tme forty faallas, io HOW WK SUFFERBIX 189 he head. Me get 'em out Sacre tonnerre ! den me had him eufficient la poiidie and la Dallas for de route ! No go hungry una leetil bit !" On the fifth day subsequent, we again launched forth into the strean\ and after a series of most extraordinarj' exertions, (being obliged to lighten our boat several times, by carrying its loading on shore, and reloading as often, thus to enable us to lift it over sand-bars,) we succeeded in getting it Bome three miles, and finally became safely moored in the middle of the river, from which it was impossible to extricate ourselves either by going backwards, forwards, or eidewise — with or without a cargo. Here we remained for three days, and experienced, during the interval, a continuous fall of rain and sleet, which rendered the weather dismal and our own situation disagreeable in the extreme. A cliche of liquor ha\ang been made, fifteen or twenty miles distant, by a trader connected witli our consort, a month or two previous, imforbid- ding as was the weather, the crew could not rest content until the hidden treasure was among them. Improving the opportunity presented by a slight suspension of the storm, one morning two of them started to procure it. Soon after it commenced snowing and raining, accompanied by a fierce, cutting wmd and all the withering bleakness of a winter's blast. Still keeping on, however, they obtained the cS^che, and returned with it towards the boat. But night shut in upon them by tlie way, and a thrice dreary night it was. Being too drunk to navigate, they lost their course and were forced to camp in the open prairie, without wood or aught else of which to build a fire, or even a robe to cover or a rock to shelter thera from the chill wind and peltings of the pitiless storm. Half-frozen with cold and wet to the skin, they lay upon the muddy ground and passed tlie interval, not in sleep, but in a state of drunken stupor, produced by inordinate draughts upon the contents of their keg. On the next morning they reached the boat, — a beautiful looking couple, as might well be supposed ! Covered with mud from head to foot, their clothes were wringing wet, and their faces bloated and swollen almost to twice their natural size. So complete was the transformation, they were scarcely recognizable as the same persons. But, regardless of hardship and sufiering, they stuck to the liquor-keg and brought it with them as proof of their triumph. And now commenced a scene of drunken revelry, which, despite my efibrts to prevent it, soon communicated itself to both crews, and continued without intennission till the stock on hand was exhausted. The lack of a fire by which to warm ourselves, contributed materially to the misery of our present condition ; there being no wood procurable for that purpose within five or six miles of either shore, and having none on board, we were compelled to endure the dreary interval as best we could. But another evil came pressing upon our already heavy load throuj^b the entire exhaustion of provisions, and tlie last of our stay was mads twice forbm by cold and tasting. 190 PICrrURE OF THE PLATTE. The gloomy reality of tliis sitaatioii may be thus briefly summed up ;— we were fast agroiuid in the middle of a river, three-fourths of a mDe from either shore, confined to the narrow hmits of a few feet, exposed to the merciless peltings of a chill storm of r.iin and sleet, with only a thiir lodge skin to shelter us, without fire to warm cr dry ourselves by, and, worse tlian all, destitute of the means of appeasing the gnawings of hun- ger. But, forbidding as the picture may seem, it proved only the commence- ment of a long series of suffering and deprivation, more intensely dread- ful in its nature, that was yet held in reserve for us. On the forenoon of the fourth day the storm abated, and, favored with a slight rise of water, by dint of extraordinary efiTcrt we finally succeeded in getting afloat, and gained the right shore after pulling our craft over sand- bars for a distance of two miles. All hands now turned out in search of game, one ol whom returned, towards night with an antelope, providing us with a needful supply of food for the time being. The next day, forcing our craft onward for six or eight miles, we brought to upon the left shore, where, after a short excursion among the hills, two other antelope were brought in, v/hich furnished us with a fur- ther supply of provisions. The day following we continued our voyage till towards noon, when a high wind compelled us again to lay by under the lee of a small island. Here, towards night, having spread our robes near the camp fire, while all hands were busy at the boat, a sudden gust of wind bore the sparks among the dry grass, and in an instant the ^vhole island was one sheet of ^ flame ! robes, bLmkets, and all. were almost entirely destroyed, notwitli- standing our prompt efforts to save them. Continuing on, the next morning we forced our boat, or rather carried it, down stream for about fifteen miles, — wading the river for nearly tho whole distance. Our mode of voyaging was pretty much the same, each day of its con tinuance. Sailing was out of the question. Not unfrequently we were obliged to unload five or six times in the course of a few liours, in order to lift tlie boat over high sand-bars,— carrying its cargo upon our backs through the water a half-mile or more, to some dry place of deposit for the mean time ; then returning it in the hke tiresome manner, — now in water up to our arm-pits, — ^then scarcely enough to cover the sand of tlie river bed. As for a channel there was none, or rather, there were so many we were at a continual loss which to choose. Now, gliding along merrily for a mile or two, we are brought to a halt by the water scattering over a broad bed, and find ourselves snugly * pocketed,'^ witii no otlier means of extrication than by backing out ; theii| wading against a swift current, we retrace our steps for a like distance, tuid try another chute, perhaps with no better success ; — then, again, con- ▼eying our landing to the nearest point of land, by means of hand-spikei afid levers, (requiring an exercise of the utmost streng^thj we force 9V HARD FATI. 191 empty craft over the shoals, and again load it, perhaps, to re-act the same ■cene in a brief interval. Sometimes we were obliged to travel (for such navigation as this waa tenfold worse than travelling) four of five miles to make one mile headway. By crossing and re-crossing a river varying in width from one to two miles- first advancing, then retreating ; now taking to the right, tlien to the left ; now transverse, and then oblique, we wasted our time, strength, and pa- tience, in labor to Uttle or no purpuse. No one, unless practically experi- enced, can have a correct idea of the beauties of such a voyage. Towards night, attracted by the appearance of a couple of bulls among the sand-hills, we brought to upon the left shore, and succeeded in kiUing one of them. A high wind the day following kept us encamped and afforded another opportunity for hunting. Improving the occasion to explore the country northward, and obtain, if possible, some correct conception of its general character, a jaunt of four or five miles, over the bottom of rich alluvial soil skirting tlie river, ushered me into a high rolling prairie, partaking of the mixed nature of the garden and desert. The hills, in many places, were piles of sand or sun-baked clay, with scarcely a shrub or spire of grass to hide their nude deformity, while the space between them sported a rich soil and luxuriant vegetation, and was clothed in the verdure and lovehness of spring, and adorned with blushing wild-flowers in full bloom. Further on were yet higher summits, surmounted by pines and cedars, raising their heads in stately grandeur far above the sweet valleys at their feet. Taken together, the scenery was not only romantic and picturesque, but bewitching in its beauty and repulsive in its deformity. The prevailing rock was a dark, ferruginous sandstone, and argillaceous limestone, interspersed with conglomerates of various kinds. Proceeding to a distance of about fifteen miles from the river, in hopes of finding game, I encountered nothing save a solitary band of wild horses, that fled across the sand-hills with the fleetness of the wind on my appear- ance, after which I returned to the boat much fatigued from the excursion Our other hunters had also returned ; but neither of them with better success than myself. The subsequent morning we again renewed our voyage. Soon after, an (M bull presenting himself upon the river bank, we landed, and one of the crew approached him from the water-edge. The old fellow, unconscious of the danger which threatened, permitted the hunter to advance till within three or four yards of him. The sharp crack of a rifle-shot first awoke him to a sense of his situation, when, reeling, n« plunged headlong from the steep bank into the river. Our marksman, ii an effort to dodge the falling beast, tumbled backwards into swimming wa ter — lost his gun, and came very near being drowned. The bull made halt at a sand-bar, near by, and received nineteen shots ip his carcase before he could be dispatched. IM IVFCXBSIBLI rO f ROCEED. When killed, Ms hams were found half eaten by wolves, and hi« wboto body otherwioe so badly mangled we left it unbutchered. In the afternoon, having pursued our way eight or ten miles, we lay by for the night. A high wind and rain during the three succeeding days prevented further progress, and in the interval our provisions became again exhausted. While here, observing two Indians in the distance, running bu^yo, I took three men and started to meet them. On coming up, we found an old Indian with his eon engaged in butchering. Announcing the object of my visit to be the procurement of meat, they listened without a reply, but con- tinued their operations, — laying tlie selections in two separate heaps. When finished, the old man led up his horse, and, pointing to an assorted pile, told me it was mine, and the animal also should be at my service to convey it to camp. His village, he remarked, was a long distance over the hills, on the watch for Pawnees, and though in a directly opposite course from us, he loved the white man and would give hirn meat and a horse to carry it. Accepting the offer of the generous-hearted savage, I took the heavy- laden horse and returned to tho boat, — ^the owner following to regain ms beast. When arrived, he hinted at no remumeration for his kmdness, and mounting his horse, would have left for his village. Where will you find among civilized people men thus generous and obliging ? Such cases are indeed rare. The savage here proved himself of more noble principles than nineteon-twentieths of his enlightened and christianized brethren, whose religion teaches them to love their neighbor OS themselves, and do to others as they would Uke to be done unto ! Unwilling that such disinterested kindness should go unrewarded, I made the old man some trifling presents, which he accepted with great pleasure, and, pressing his hand to his breast, exclauned : " Chanta-ma warstaello !" (my heart is good !) and, shaking hands with the company, put whip to his horse and was soon out of si^ht. It is useless to notice the particular progress of each day, or to state how many times we unloaded in the interim — how often we crossed the river, oi how far we carried our boat by main strength ; these things have been already laid before the reader sufficiently to give him some faint idea of the intolerable hardships and sufferings we were compelled to undergo. Each day was but a repetition of the toils and struggles of the preceding one. Neither would it be interesting to state the especial half-day, day, or suc- cessive days we went without eating, meanwhile ; suffice it to say, the morning of the lOf.h of June found us at the mouth of a small creek upon the right shove, about two hundred miles below the Fort, — having been thirty-five days en barquetle, and without eating for full one tliird of that time ! The expected spring rise had failed, and the river was very low and stiJl falling, so that there was no possible chance of conveying our cargo to the States, as the most difticult part of tlie voyage lay yet before us. I ac- cordingly abandoned all thoughts of the latter, and adopted such other ar- rangements as my judgment suggested upon the premises. 193 CHAPTER XVIII. Hvntinf excuraion. — Thirst more painful than hunger. — Geological obeervations — Mournful casualty. — Sad scene of sepulture. — Melancholy night. — Voyage in an empty boat.— Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff —Plover creek. Cacne Grove. — Tliousand Islands. — Abandon boat, — Exploring company. — A horrible situ- ation. — Agony to torment. — Pawnee village. — Exemplary benevolence of an Indian chief. — Miserable fourth ot July. — Four days starvation. — Arrival at Council Bluff. — Proceed to Independence. For two days preceding we had been without eating, and our first eflbrt was to procure a re-supply of provisions. Both crews started out with their rifles in pursuit of game, though not the foot-print of any living crea- ture appeared to excite even the faintest hope of success. Still, however, we kept on, determined not to despair so long as the use of legs remained to us. Having travelled some fifteen miles, chance threw in our way a doe-elk with her fawn, which the unerring aim of a rifle speedily laid dead before us. Soon as opened, the liver disappeared at the demands of voracious ap- petites, and next to it the marrov/ bones and kidneys. The process of cooking was then commenced over a fire of bois de vachey which was continued till each stomach was abundantly satisfied. But, here another enemy assumed the place of hunger, and one far more painful in its nature. There was not a drop of water to allay our thirst short of the river, fifteen miles distant, — over an open sand-prairie and beneath the scorching rays of a vertical sun. I can endure hunger for many days in succession without experiencing any very painful sensations, — I can lie down and forget it in the sweet un- consciousness of sleep, or feast my imagination upon the rich-spread tables of dreams ; — but not so with thirst. It cannot be forgotten, sleeping or waking, while existence is retained. It will make itself known and felt ! It will parch your tongue and burn your tliroat, despite your utmost endeavors to thrust it from memory ! Each one sjiouldering his burden from the carcase, we took up our line of march for the boat, where, arriving in four or five hours subsequently, we quenched our burning thirst in the water of the thrice welcome stream. The country, travelled over during tins excursion, for the first ten 01 twelve miles, was a level plain, presenting a thin veg-etable mould with • luxuriant growth of grass and herbage, upon a substratum of sand anc' gravel. The remainder of our route led through h ridge of hills, many of then) naked, others clothed with grass and ornamented with pines ; — between the lumuli were many beautiful vallons, gorgeously decked with wild-flowers iu Tull bloom, and arrayed in mantles of living green ; while thick clusters of Sruit-bearing trees and shrubs attested tlie general fecundity and lent theii •nchantment to the scene. X7 IW MOURNFUL CASUALTY. Beyond this a gentle acclivity, that led to the high prairies, spread before the beholder a wilderness of verdure, without one moving object to relieve its cheerless monotony. The boats were unloaded on our return and their contents placed in a compact pile upon shore, over which were spread two thicknesses of lodge* skin, to protect it from the weather. Other necessary arrangements were soon completed. Two men being selected to remain with the robes, two were dispatched to the Fort, while the remainder with myself were to make our way to the States, if possible, in an empty boat. Everything was put in order for departure the next morning, and a gloomy feeling pervaded each mind as the hour approached that was to separate a band so closely united by mutual sufFermgs, toil, and depriva- tion. Those selected to accompany me were congratulating themselves on the prospect of soon reaching the termination of their arduous and eventful expedition, among the friends and acquaintances of other days ; and none were more happy in the anticipation of this hoped for finale^ than was a lively French youth, named Prudom. Notwithstanding the general tendency of circumstances was to produce feehngs of melancholy, his voice rang loud in announcing the varied plans of amusement and pleasure, that were to be realized upon his arrival at home. For this day, so far at least, he had been the 'petit gar^on of the company ; and, it was frequently remarked, as his quaint expressions and sallies of wit burst upon the ear, " What in the world is the matter with Prudom ? His good nature and kindness of disposition had won the esteem of all acquainted with him, while his cheerfulness and fortitude at all times con- tributed much to render tolerable the dreariness of our forlorn condition. A little before night, the company indulged in a general cleansing, ac- companied by a shave and change of clothes. Prudom was among the number, for whom an intimate friend officiated as barber ; — the operation finished, he jokingly remarked : " Well, Tom, I suppose this is the last thne you'll ever shave me !" Little did the poor fellow think how soon his words were to be verified. Seizing his rifle he stepped on board the boat, and, stooping to lay it by, exclaimed, " Here's the game !" The words were scarcely uttered, when the gun-lock, coming in sudden contact with the boat-side, discharged the piece and shot him through the heart ! He staggered, faltering forth " Mon Dleu !" and fell dead at my feet!" A thrill of horror struck every nerve on witnessing tliis tragical event. If we had previously felt melancholy, we novv felt dismal and wobegone. He, who five minutes since was the very soul of cheerfulness and mirth, now lay a lifeless corpse ! How true it is, we " know not what a day or an hour may bring forth." The sun was just setting as we commenced digging a grave in which to deposite all that remained of our friend and companion. J HOW WE FARED. 195 The task was a sad one, and as tedious as it was sorrowful. We hao neither shovel nor pick-axe, and were compelled to dig it with our butcher knives and hands. The pale-moon, new-risen, shed her sombre light over the dismal realms o" Solitude, and an ii.^ervening cloud cast its pall-like shaddow upon the scene of sepulture, as we laid low the corse in mother dust. No sliroud covered — no useless coffin enclosed it, — a grave was the only gift within the power of friendsliip to bestow ! A thin coating of earth succeeded by a layer of stones and drift-wood, and that again by another eartli-coat, was its covering, — then, the mournful task was done, — a tear dropt to the mem- ory of poor Prudom, and his body left to slumber in its narrow prison-house, till the sound of the last trump shall wake the dead to judgment.* That night to ua was a more painful one than any we had passed. A feeling of superstitious . awe, mingled with thrilling sensations of grief and thoughts of our own miserable condition, occupied each mind and usurped the soothing powers of sleep. The dolesome bowlings of the prairie-woll^ and hootings of the midnight owl, borne upon the listening air, kept sad condolence v/ith our musings, and gave increased momen- tum to the pressure that crushed our spirits. Who could sleep, amid such scenes and surrounded by such circumstances 1 The rising sun of the morrow brought the hour of leparation, and ex- hibited upon every face the same downcast look, prefiguring the inwarii- workings of a mind a^oorbed in the melancholy of its own thoughts. My party consisted of six, some of whom were selected from the crew of our consort. We all embarked in one boat, taking with us a smail quantity of robes, (our own individual property,) and a portion of the pro- visions at camp. Our voyage for a few days succeeding, was performed without much difficulty, except in the article of food — for, from this onward, till v.e finally reached the settlements, (an interval of twenty-eight days,) vve were without eating full one half of the time ! Proceeding some thirty miles, we overtook the American Fur Com- pany's barges, three in number, the crews of which were struggling on in vain effort to reach the States. We glided past them with a loud huzza, and rallied the poor, toiling voyageurs, upon the futility of their exertions. Five or six days subsequently, we were, in turn, overtaken by them ; — they, like ourselves, abandoning all hope of accomplishing the objects of their voyage, had left their freight at Ash creek, under guard — and, from that on, became our compagnons de voyage. The only game previous to reaching the forks of the Platte — a distance of some two hundred miles — was now and then an antelope, with a few straggling deer. Our subsistence, meanwhile, was principally upon greenSf and such roots as we had tiine and opportunity to gather. The country was pretty much of a uniform character, with that pre- viously described. The rich alluvion of the river bottom reposed upon a varied substratum of sand, marl, gravel, and clay. * On my return the ensuing fall, 1 learned that the body of the unfortunate youig man had been disinterred by wolvee and devoiirod. 196 ON FOOT. I noticed ieveral varieties of clays in the river banks exposed by the attrition of the water — of these were the white, red, black, yellow, blue, and green. The white clay is much used by the Indians in cleaning skins and robes ; in operation performed by mixing it with water till the compound as- sumes the color and about four times the consistency of milk, when it is applied to the surface of the article in hand ; the robe or skin thus wash- ed- after being thoroughly dried in the sun, is rubbed until it becomes soft and pliable from friction, and the grosser particles of the preparation are loosened and removed. By this simple process skins assume a milky whiteness, and every spot of grease or dirt is made to disappear. All kinds of skin may be thus cleansed, and will readily attain an un- soiled purity, surpassing that originally possessed. Red, yellow, black, blue, or any other kind of clay, may be used for like purposes, and will readily impart to the cleansed articles their own color. In case a single application is insufficient, repeat the process for two or three times, and there can be no possible failure in the result, provid- ed the clay is pure and good. Some twenty miles above the Forks, we passed a ridge of rocky hills exhibiting layers of limestone and sandstone in bold escarpments, that jutting into the river from the right, formed a high embankment covered with pines and cedars, known as Cedar Bluff. At the upper side of this point stood the remains of an old Pawnee village, which had been deserted by its inhabitants immediately after the bloody battle between that nation and the Sioux, at the mouth of Ash creek. The bottom, for several miles above, is rarely excelled in fertility. The islands are generally timbered, but the river banks upon both sides are almost entirely destitute of trees of any kind. From Cedar Bluff, in about eight miles, we came to the mouth of a large and beautiful creek, forcing its way, with a clear and rapid current, from the high rolling prairies to the north. This presented the appear- ance of being skirted with broad and fertile bottoms, well supplied witl timber among the hills. Though vested with eome importance on ac count of its size and locality, it is as yet nameless — the abundance o/ plovers in its vicinity at the time of my passing, suggested the term " Plo ver creek" as a proper appellation. Five or six miles further on, we came to a large grove of cottonwocU upon the right shore. Here, some five years vsince, a company of trade/a, while descending the Platte in boats loaded with furs, made cS-che of one hundred and sixty packs of robes, which they were compelled to leave on account of the low stage of the water. The luckless party, after enduring great hardships, arrived in the States ; but their c&che was subsequently plundered by Pawnees. The confluence of the North and South Forks made but little perceptible difference in tlie size of the river. From the junction, in five days' time we reached the vicinity of Grand Island, about two hundred and twenty Hiles from the nearest white settlements. -flXPLORlNG EXJ'EDrnON. 197 The high prairie upon tiie north shore, between the above points, is gen eraliy sandy. The river presents numerous clusters of islands, most o^ wiiich are heavily timbered and clothed with luxuriant growths of vegeta> tion. The soil is of a deep, sandy loam, and well adapted to cultivation: I noticed upon them several choice wild flowers of rare beauty. We experienced great difficulty in forcing our boats through a large group, called the " Thousand Islands," that thickly studded the river for some ten miles, and, before clearing them, found our passage completely blockaded. Having consumed an entire day in vain effort to proceed, we \--ere at length compelled to abandon the idea. The water was constantly Ming, and our condition hourly becoming worse. This forced upon us the dernier resort of performing the remainder of our arduous journey on foot. Accordingly, making ca,che of the personal property with us, we sunk our barges in a deep hole near by, threw all extra clothing into the river, and, each selecting a robe with as much meat as he could carry, we commenced our weary tramp. The property thus disposed of was of the value of several hundred dollars. Among other articles left in c^che, were arms and tools of various kinds. No one would now carry a gun, — as we were to pass througli a section of country destitute of game, and, being obliged to travel with all possible despatch to avoid starvation, good policy prompted us to dispense with every unnecessary encumbrance. For myself, however, I was unwilling to re- linquish my rifle, and determined to take it with me. There were fourteen of us, including the coups de barquette of the Ameri- can Fur Company ; and, as we trudged along at a pace enfeebled by a series of cruel hardships, fatigue, and starvation, — with provisions and beds bound m close bundles and strapped to our backs,— half-naked, long-bearded, care- worn, and haggard, — we looked like the last remnants of hard times ! The 28th of June dated the commencement of tills last stage of our tire- some pilgrimage. Having travelled some ten or twelve miles, we espied a camp of whites a short distance in advance, and were observed by them almost at the same time. Our appearance created an evident consternation, — ^their horses were driven in with great speed, and their guns stripped ready for action, while our or five men, mounted upon fleet chargers, rode out to reconnoitre. On ascertaining the cause of their alarm to be only a handful of unarmed men, they ventured up, and were saluted with the cordiality of old acquain- tances, so rejoiced were we at the sight of anything savoring of the endear- ments of home and civilization. The company proved one in tlie employ of the United States Government, under the command Lieut. J. C. Fremont, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, on an expedition for the exploration and survey of the country laying between the Missouri river and the mountains. The commandant seemed a gentleman of urbanity and intelligence, and pohtely furnished us with all the passing news of the day preceding his departure from tlie States. Our smokers and tobacco-chewers, who had been for sometime without the sina qua non of -the mountaineer, now procured a re-eupplj for the induiU gonc« of theii filthy and unnatural taste. 17 • 196 INDIAN iONDMESS. Leaving our new-found friends, we continued on for a few miles, and halted a brief interval under the shade of a cottonwood grove. While thus reclining upon the green grass, what was our surprise at seeing three In- dians, who appeared suddenly in our midst extending their hands to greei us ! They belonged to a war-party of Chyennes, — had been to the Pawnees, and were now on their return, with three horses captured from tlie enemy. Continuing our course, towards sundown I began to find my rifle rathei cumbersome, and, yielding to the advice of all hands, threw it away. Having travelled till late at night, we laid ourselves down in the trail for repose;— the musquetoes, however, togetlier Vviih the heat, were so annoying, sleep was impossible. I never in my life before was so tortured by these relentless persecutors. Their sting was far more tolerable to me than the unending hum of their music. To exterminate them was a hopeless task, for, at the death of one, fifty would come to its funeral, — and to submit quietly to their rapacity and be eaten up alive by such loving friends, was more than human flesh and blood could endure. For three liours I lay,' sweltered by the heat and pierced by the hungry myriads that swarmed around, until my agony became so great it obtained the mastery of reason, and I was scarcely self-conscious whether a being of earth or an inhabitant of the realms of woe. In the height of my plirenzy I fancied four demons had hold of the ex- tremities of my robe, and were fiercely dragging me over a prairie of sharp rocks, that tore my flesh at every bound. The remainder of the party suf- fered equally v/ith myself, and none of them were permitted to close their eyes that night. June 29th. We started at early day, and pursued our journey till ten o'clock, which brought us to the foot of Grand Island, — a distance of sixty miles from the place of our adventure with the Indians during the previous afternoon. Here we indulged in a slight repast, and, reclining upon the grass, enjoyed a few hours' sleep, despite the continued amioyance of mus- quetoes. On arousing to resume the painful march, our legs were found in a ver) unenviable phght, and almost refused to sustain the accustomed burthen. Our feet, also, (softened and made tender by the mollifying effects of the water, to which they had been so long familiar, and, unused to the offices now newly forced upon them,) were sore and swollen to a frightful size. From this on, our journey was most intensely painful. But, notwithstanding all, we were compelled to keep moving, tliough oui progress seemed more like the passage of Mahomet's " bridge of swords " Ihan aught else imaginable. July 2d. This morning our stock of provisions was entirely exhausted, and yet a long distance intervened betv/een us and the settlements. Towards night, however, chance brought us in the way of » plentiful aiupper, by our encountering the Pawnee village on its way '/> the buf* falo range. We were entertained by the head chief in . hospitable ■uumer, who furoished us bountifully with boiled oom and ^aush; and PART COMPANY. 1» we were also invited into several shantees with the same kind io tention. The Pawnee chief (Red Eagle, if my recollection serves me righd wai a generous old fellow, aged some sixty years. His benevolence was truly exemplary, as his conduct well attested. My moccasins, be- ing much worn by long usage, exposed to the ground the bottoms of my feet. This was no sooner discovered by the noble-hearted old man, than he pulled off his own (a pair of new ones) and gavo them to me ! What white man would have done the like? And this was done by the poor Indian, not from the expectation of reward, but through the promptings of an innate benevolence ! A small tin-cup, taken with me thus far, was the only return in my power to make. liOaving the village a little before sundown, we encamped for the night near the houses recently occupied by these Indians, after having travelled seven or eight miles- Their buildings are coniform, and con- structed of earth and timber, very similar to those of the Kansas tribe, described in a previous chapter. Several years ago, the Pawnees were a numerous and powerful na- tion, possessing an extensive territory, and occupying five large towns, viz : one upon the Republican branch of the Kansas river, one at the forks of the Platte, one south of the Arkansas near the Cumanche coun- try, one on Loup creek, and one some ninety miles above the moutli of the Platte. These several divisions were known by the terms of Pic, Mahah, Republican, Loup, and Grand Pawnees. The Riccarees, speaking the same language, may. also be reckoned a fraction of this tribe. The five villages before named are now reduced to two, i. e. on Loup creek and above the mouth of the Platte. The whole number of the Pawnee nation, exclusive of the Riccarees, probably does not exceed six thousand souls. -All of the western tribes being at war with them, their numerical strength is continually dimin- ishing. Slight advances have been made towards improving the condition of this nation, but, as yet, with little apparent success. A farmer, blacksmith, and schoolmaster are provided them under the patronage of the U. S. Govern- ment, and a missionary is also stationed among them by the American Board of Foreign Missions. They raise corn* and other vegetables, but their principal dependence for subsistence is upon the proceeds of hunting. Their general character is stamped with indolence, treachery and cowardice, for which they have become famous, not only among the whites, but also among their rude neighbors, — having thus attained the hatied of both. July 3d. This morning we parted company, and each of us undertook to make his way to Council Bluff according to the best of his ability. Being entirely destitute of food, it became us to urge our course with all possible dispatch. • I noticed one cornfield, near th© village, that contained rixty iai aypeuntnce nTored much of civilized agriculture. »0 KOTES BY THE WAT. Jvhf Aih. Accompanied by two others, in an equally forlorn condition, the " glorious fourth " finds me plodding along, over an open prairie, be- neath the scorching rays of a summer's sun, unarmed, half-naked, with a ■houldered pack, and not having had a morsel to eat for the past two days. It is now I think of the festal boards and scenes of good clieer so omni- present upon Freedom's birth-day in tlie land of my nativity ! Mine ia a mode of celebrating Independence, that I care not ever again to obser\'e. On the 6th we reached the Ottoe mission and obtained food, after an ab- stinence of four successive days. Early in the morning of the 7th we arrived at Council Bluff on the Missouri, eight miles above the mouth of the Platte, and nearly four hun- dred above Fort Leavenworth. In the course of the day following our whole party came in, one after another — some of whom had become so weakened by hardship and deprivation they could scarcely move a dozen yards witliout stumbling ! Having remained a few days at Council Bluff to recruit our strength, we Erocured canoes and descended the Missouri. Tlie 21st inst. found me at [idependence, Mo., after an absence of nearly nine months, — having con- sumed seventy-five days upon my return voyage, and, in tlie meantime, ex- perienced a series of suffering and misfortunes seldom equalled and rarely surpassed. CHAPTER XIX. The country between the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. — Leave Independence for the Mountains. — Meet Pawnees. — In- dian hospitality. — Journey up the South Fork Platte. — Fort Grove. — Beaver creek. — Bijou. — Chabonard'B camp. — Country described. — Medicine Lodge. — The Chy- ennes ; their character and history. — Arrive at Fort Lancaster. — Diflerent locaUtiea in its neighborhood. — Fatal Duel. — Ruins. The country travelled over from the Pawnee village to Council Bluff or Bellevieu, as more recently called) is generally possessed of a rich, clayey soil, which is well adapted to cultivation. Large quantities of timber skirt the streams, that include all the varie- ties found in the States. The landscape is beautifully undulating, and, at the time of our passing it, was covered with a luxuriant growth of vege- tation, (the grass being frequently waist high,) and ornamented by rare specimens of wild flowers. The Pawnees, Ottoes, and Omahas possess the whole extent of this ter- ritory, which embraces much valuable land within its limits. That north of die river and adjacent to Bellevieu is owned by the Pottowatomies, who %bo claim to Uie boundary between Iowa and Missouri. imsxpicTBD BwcoTjirrsB. JOS The Kickapoos, lowas, Sacs, and Foxes occupy the country south of the Missouri, from the mouth of the Platte to Fort Leavenworth. All of this interval possesses a fertile soil, is well watered and passably well timbered. A more particular description of it, however, does not prop- erly come within the limits of this work. Upon my arrival at Independence, affairs were in a rather confused state. Times were hard and all kinds of » business at their lowest ebb. The com- pany for which I had acted had become bankrupt, and left me a loser to no mconsiderable amount. But, notwithstanding this unfavorable aspect of things, I decided upon retui-ning to the Moimtains for the purpose of visit- ing the different regions adjacent to them. Acting upon this resolution, I expended the means at my immediate com- mand for the procurement of an outfit ; — and the beginning of August saw me again en route, accompanied by two experienced mountaineers — all of us mounted upon hardy mules and well provided for the journey before us. The first four or five days subsequent, our progress was much impeded by successive rains, that rendered the road muddy and om-selves uncom- fortable. We were necessitated to raft the Wakarousha, and the Kansas was so swollen it was forded with great difficulty, — the water frequently covering the backs of our animals. From that onward we enjoyed pleasant weather and journeyed without further interruption ; — nothing occurred worth note, tiU we reached the Pawnee range, near the head of Big Blue. One morning, while travelling along unconcernedly and at our leisure, having as yet observed nothing to excite our apprehensions, a Pawnee sud- denly made his appearance directly in front of us. Such a customer had we been aware of his proximity, would have been most carefully avoided, in a place so dangerous as this ; but, as he had first discovered us, it was now too late to give him the shp, and we accordingly permitted his appl-oach, greeting him in a friendly manner. He immediately informed us that the whole conntry was full of his peo- ple returning from their summer-hunt, and he invited us to accompany him to the village. This we dccKned, bemg unwilling to trust either him or his people. Observing several other " shaved heads " hurrying towards us from over tlie adjoining hills, we struck camp and prepai'ed for the expected rencoun- ter. Upon coining near, however, they appeared friendly and were most of them unai-med. Again we were m-ged to visit the village. . After waiting an hour or more, we resumed our course, still followed by the unwelcome visitors. A ride of scarcely a half mUe brought us to the top of a hill, and, to our surprise, j^laced us in the immediate precincts of the village, — too tar advanced for a retreat. The entire population was instantly in motion, and came crowding to- wards us upon eveiy side. Pushing boldly fonvard, we were received by the same kind-hearted old chief of whom I had occasion to speak in the preceding chapter. On recognizing me, I was welcomed with great cop- diahty, and we were forthwith conducted to his shantee and sumptuously entertained upon the choicest in his possession. 204 JOURNEY IP SOUTH FORK PLATTB. Our camp-equipage and other articles were all safely disposed of, and notJiing conducive to our pleasure or comfort was left unattended to. DuT' ing our entire stay, we were beset with invitations to feasts which were prepared expressly for us by tliese hospitable villagers, who appeared dis- pleased whenever w^e declined their acceptance. The old chief brought forward his httle grandson to shake hands with us — remarking, that he would teach his chUdren Uke himself to love the Americans. A small sack filled with papers was then laid before me for perusal. They consisted of recommendations, speaking in very flattering terras of the bearer. Red Eagle, and belauding his kindness and liberality. Most willingly would I have complied with his request, and made "the paper talk " for him, but the means were not at hand. The kind-hearted old man presented us each a pair of moccasins and urged our stay till the next morning, — adding: '*Sorae of my men are bad, and my heart is sick for them. Should you go before sleep, they might follow and rob you. When the morrow's sun has newly risen above the prairie, they will have left their foot-prints in tlie homeward trail, and my v/hite brothers may pass unmolested. But, if you will not rest beneath the shade of the Red Eagle, wait till the day -king is low, then ride fast till the night is old, and tlius may you avoid the evil ones who would injure you." This advice seemed so reasonable, we consented to remain till late in the afternoon, when, driving up our animals, we made preparations to start. Every article belonging to us was faithfully returned by the old man, who ordered for us a present of buffalo meat. Several large pieces were accordingly brought by different individuals, of excellent quality, and in quantity more than we could well carry. This" was all a free girt,-r-no one even hinted at a compensation. Where will you find among civilized man generosity and hospitahty equal to this 7 Willing to reward such exemplary conduct, we presented tlie liberal donors with a small supply of sugar, coffee, and tobacco ; and, to our host, we gave a knife and some other trifling articles, all of which he received with evident gratification. Biddmg the noble chieftain adieu, we pursued our course in accordance with his direction, — travelling nearly all night. Early the next morning we struck the Platte, and, in the afternoon, reached the point at which myself and others had abandoned our boats. On visiting the ciche made at that time, not a thing remained ; — it had been robbed by the Pawnees, in all probability, as the island was covered with the tracks of men and horses. But what afibrded still more conclusive evidence, was the site of a recent Pawnee encamp* ment within eome four hundred yards of the place. The next morning brought us to the bufialo range, and our fare waa oat of continued feasting from that onward. Three days subsequently we came to the forks of the Platte, and con- tinued up the south branch, with the design of proceeding to New Mezict hj way of Fort Lancaster. MEETING AGAIK. 20S Here we entered a stretch of territory not as yet brought before the read er'B notice. Passing on, a ride of between fifty and sixty miles brought us to d large grove of willows at the mouth of a sand-creek, where we remained the day following. The vicinity contained the relics of three or four Indian forts, con- structed of logs, — one or two of which were in an almost entire state of Preservation, and afforded a correct illustration of Indian military genius. !'heir forms were oval, and the roofage so complete, we were amply sheltered* in one of them from a heavy shower which fell during our stay. From this point (properly denominated Fort Grove) to the forks, the country is rather sterile and roUing, with the exception of the river bottoms, which, as usual, are possessed of a rich soil and vary in width from one to five miles. There is scarcely a tree, worth naming, upon either bank of the river for the whole extent. The expanse lying to the northward is quite broken and hilly, with some few pines and cedars at the heads of ravines. Previous to leaving Fort Grove I experienced an attack of the fever and ague, which recurred, at intervals of once in two days, until we reached Fort Lancaster. Resuming our journey, a ride of some ten miles brought us to the mouth of Pole creek, a large affluent of the right shore. This is a clear and handsome stream, running through a rich valley of considerable width. Iti entire course affords but very little timber, and the prairie upon either side is generally sandy and barren. Journeying on about seventy-five miles further, we came to a large stream called la Fouchett aux Castors, or Beaver Fork. This creek heads in the highlands between the Platte and Arkansas, and traces its course through a sandy country, varied by diminutive hills of clayey soil, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles. It presents man;^ beautiful bottoms of a rich vegetable mould, with here and there small clus- ters of timber. Some forty or fifty miles above Beaver creek, we crossed Bijou, anothei large affluent of the left shore. The water at the mouth of this stream was shallow, dispersing itself in several small channels, over a bed of gravel and quicksand, about four hundred yards wide, and enclosed by abrupt banks of clay and sand. For several miles above its junction with the Platte no timber appears ; but further on, many large groves relieve the eye, and invite the traveller to their shade, while broad meadows and rich bottoms, clothed with grass an flowers, cheer the beholder and delight his fancy. Aug. ZOth. A ride of ten or fifteen miles, from this point, brought ns toa camp of whites, in the employ of Bent and St. Vrain, occupying a small island in the Platte. They were gr.arding a quantity of robes with whicii they had attempted to descend the river, but were unable to proceed fiirthet on account of low water. I was much gratified at here meeting an old acquaintance, with wlioa I bad passed a portion of the previous winter upon White river 18 206 MEDICINE LODGE. The camp was under the direction of a half-breed, named Chabonard, who proved to be a gentleman of superior information. He had acquired a classic education and could converse quite fluently in German, Spanish, French, and English, as well as several Indian languages. His mind, also, was well stored with choice reading, and enriched by extensive travel and obser\'ation. Having visited most of the important places, both in Eng- land, France, and Germany, he knew how to turn his experience to good advantage. There was a quaint humor and shrewdness in his conversation, so garbed with intelligence and perspicuity, tiiat he at once insinuated hira^lf into fhe good graces of listeners, and commanded their admiration and respect. The country, between Fort Grove and Cabonard's camp, with the excep* tion of the river bottoms, (which were quite fertile and occupied an area, upon both banks, varying in vndth. from one hundred yards to five miles,) is slightly undulatmg, and presents two uniform characteristics, — one, a thin clayish loam upon a subtratum of sand and gravel, and the other a sandy surface, often entirely destitute of vegetation, save, perchance, a few scattering spires of coarse grass and a species of prickly burr. Various specimens of cacti are found m every direction, and prove a frequent source of vexation to the traveller. The landscape discloses a scene of dreary sterility, — more to be accounted for by the dryness of the climate than any natural defect in the soil. The river upon both sides is nearly destitute of timber, and v/e were frequently compelled to use bois de vache for cooking purposes. There is also a scarcity of rock, — ^though, in the neighborhood of Bijou, I observed a kind of grayish sandstone, exposed to view in the beds of ravines ; and, directly opposite Chabonard's camp, the action of the waters had formed a steep wall, some thirty or forty feet high, wliich disclosed a large bed of sandstone and slate, with earthy limestone. A few miles above Beaver Fork, we obtained a distinct view of the main ridge of the Rocky Mountains with the snowy summit of Long's Peak distant some sixty or sixty-five miles. They appeared Uke a pile of dark clouds just rising from tlie verge of the horizon, and could be identified only by their uniform and stationary position. From the time of first entering the bufialo range till we reached Bijou creek, our entire course was beset with dense masses of those animals, which covered the river bottoms and prairies in all directions, far as the eye could reach. Our usual practice was to kill one every day, and select from its carcase the choice portions so well known and highly appreciated by mountaineers ; and, calling to aid the varied modes of cooking peculiar to hunters, surely never did epicures fare better than we. A few miles above Beaver creek we passed the site of a recent Indian en- campment, where was yet standing the frame-work of a medicine lodge, erected by the Chyennes and Arapahos for tlie performance of their reli- gious rites and ceremonies. This was made of light poles, describing an amphitheatre with a diameter of some fifty feet. In form it was much like the oavihon of a circus, and of suihcient dimensions to contaiEi severa. Mudred individual*. SKETCH or THE CHYENNEa 107 I shall take occasion in subsequent pages to speak of medicine-makingi and would refer the reader to that part for an explanation of the peculiaf purposes for which tie medicine lodge is constructed. The river at Chabonard's camp is reduced fully one half in width, com- pared with its size at the forks. The current is also clearer and more rapid. Its banks and islands are much better timbered, and its general ap- pearance indicates an approach to tlie mountains. About noon we bade farewell to our new friends, by wnom we had been kindly entertained, and resumed our journey, accompanied by my whilom companion and two others, — increasing our number to six. Towards sundown, coming to a small village of Chyennes, we passed the night in the lodge of a chief, called the Tall Soldier. Our host treated ua with much civihty, but in this he appeared actuated only by selfish motives, and with the sole view of extorting a more than fourfold equivalent by way of presents. We were also continually harassed by beggars from all quarters, and gladly availed ourselves of the first dawn of the ensuing morning to pass on, and thus escape their hnportunitiei. The Chyennes at this time occupy a portion of the Arapaho lands, bor^ dering upon the South Fork and its aJSluents. Some six or eight years since, they inhabited the country in the vicinity of the Chyenne and White rivers and the North Fork of Platte, firora whence they were driven by the hostile incursions of the Sioux, who now hold in quiet possession the whole of that territory. This tribe, in general appearance, dress, and habits, assimilates most of the mountain and prairie Indians, with the suagle exception, perhaps, of be- ing meaner than any other. They are certainly more saucy as beggara and impudent and daring as thieves, than any other I ever became acquainted with. Formerly they were a much better people, but the contaminating effects of intercourse with the whites have made a disposition, naturally bad, im- measurably worse. Contrary to Indian character in general, they are treacherous and unworthy of trust, at all times and in all places. Their history contains a small speck of romance, which may not prove altogether uninteresting to the curious. The Chyennes, at the present time, number about four hundred lodges, and claim some eight hundred warriors. The tribe is composed of two divisions, viz : the Chyennes and Gros Ventres, — both speakmg the same language and practismg the same designation of nationality, shown in Bundij transverse scars upon the left arm. Neither of these divisions know their origin, but tell the following curioiui itory of their first intercourse with each other. Many years since, the Chyennes, wliile travelling from a north country, discovered the Gros Ventres, who were also upon a journey. Aa osiuil among strange tribes, both parties rushed to the attack, and a bloody battle would undoubtedly have been the result, had it not been stayed by the mu- jul diicovexy of an identity of language. Upon this, hoatility at once gaT« SOS A BROKEN COMPAlVT. |lace to friendship, and the two parties negotiated an immodiate anion Sinee then they have been considered as one nation. What is most singular in tliis occurrence, neitlier the Groe Ventres nor Chyennes could trace any previous connection or intercourse with each Other, or knowledge of their individual existence. This tribe has made no advances in civilization, and most probably will m&ke none for many years to come. Their roving and unsettled habits Drove an obstacle, almost insuperable, to any efibrts tliat may be underta- ken for their improvement. They are generally accourited friendly to the whites, but friendshin like this is essentially of a dangerous character. Continuing our journey, the evening of Sept. 2d brought us to Fort Lancaster, after an interval of twenty-six days, during which we had travelled not far from seven hundred and twenty miles. Our route from Ciia-bvHiard's camp to this point, for the most part, led along the valley of the Platte, which resembled a garden in the splendor of its fields and die variety of its flowers. A ride of four or five miles took us across the dry bed of a largo land- creek, four or five hnndred yards wide, known as tlie Kuyawa. The banks of tills arroyo are very steep and high, disclosing, now and then, spreads of beautiful bottom lands with occasional groves of cottonwwid. At this 8ea« son of the year its watery are lost in the quicksand and gravel. We also passed the mout^is of three large affluents of the right bank of Plattej severally known as Crow creek, Cache a la Poudre, and Thomp- son's Fork. These creeks rise in the adjoining mountains, and, with the exception of Crov,' creek; trace their v/ay with clear and rapid currents, from two to three feet deep and sixty feet wide, over beds of sand and pebbles. Their valleys are broad, rich, and for the most part well timbered. Timber increases in quantity, upon tlie Platte and its aiHuents, as the traveller approaches the mountains, and the soil gradually loses that with ering aridity so characteristic of tfie grand pmirie. Tv.elve miles below Fort Lancaster we passed Fori George, a large trading post kept up by Bent and St. Vrain. Its size rather exceeds that of JFort Platte, previously described; it is built, however, after tlie same fasUion,-— as, in fact, are all the regular trading posts in the country. At thi» time, fifteen or twenty men were stationed there, under tlie command of Mr. Marsalina St. Vrain. Six miles further on, we came to a recently deserted post, which bad been occupied the previous winter and summer by Messrs Lock and Ran- dolph. One of our party, a whilom engage of tliis company, informed me of its principals' becoming bankrupt, through mismanagement and losses of various kinds; — he stated, Siat. in May last, their entire "cavalUard," consistmgol forty-five head of horses and mules, had been stolen by the Sioux Indians j this, in connection with otlier bad luck — together with the depreciated value of furs and peltries, the failure of a boat-load of robes to reach the States, the urgent demands of creditors, &lc.; had caused them to evacuate their post and quit the country. Rums, 209 A short distance above this, at a point of timber occuppng a large bot- tom, had been the scene of a fatal duel the previous winter, between two whites by the names of Herring and Beer. On my &st arrival in the country I had become acquainted with both of the actors, and felt much in- terested in the details of the bloody aflair as related by one present at the time of its unfortunate occurrence. The difficulty between them related to a Mexican woman from Taos, — the wife of Herring. Backed by a number of personal friendg, and anxious to obtain the lady from her husband, the former had provoked a quarrel and used very insult* ing language to his antagonist. This was received with little or no reply but soon, however, resulted in a challenge which was promptly accepted. The prehminaries were arranged in confident expectation of killing Her- ring, who was considered a poor marksman, especially at an off-hand shot. ,The weapons selected by Beer were rifles, the distance fifty yards, the man- ner off-hand, and the time of shooting between the word fire and tliree. /The two met, attended by their friends, at the time and place agreed upon, — at the word "^re," the ball of Beer's rifle was buried in a cottonwood a few inches above the head of his antagonist, — at the word "Z/iree" the con- tents of Herring's rifle found lodgement in the body of Beer, who fell and expired in a few minutes. Between this point and Fort Lancaster, I noticed the ruins of anothei trading post, much dilapidated in appearance, and nearly levelled with the ground. Passing along, I could not refrain from musing upon the frequent deeds of mischief and iniquity that had originated within them, in connection with , the infamous liquor traffic. Ah, thought I, were those bricks possessed of tongues, full many a tale of horror and guilt would they unfold, to stand the listener's " hair on end," and make his blood run cold ! But, lost m gilent unconsciousness, they refuse to ppeak the white man's shame 1 18* 210 CHAPTER XX. Old acquaintances. — Indian murders.— Mode of travelling in a dangerous countiy.-*- Mexican traders. — Summary way of teaching manners. — Fort Lancaster and sur- rounding country. — Resume journey. — Cherry creek and connecting observations.— Sketch of the Arapalios, their country, character, &c. — Camp of free traders.— Blackfoot cam}). — Daugherty's creek. — Observations relative to the Divide. — Mex- ican cupidity.— Strange visitors. — Tlie lone travellers. — Arrive at the Arkansas. — General remarks.— -Curious specunens of cacti — Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natura. Soda-fountain. — Indian superstition. — Enchanting scenery. — Extraordmary wall cf sandstone. At Fort Lancaster I was gratified by meeting with several acquaintances of the previous winter, two of whom had been comrades during a part of my unfortunate and adventurous voyage down the Platte. My appearance created no Httle surprise and pleasure, on all sides. Queries of various kinds were industriously plied, relative to the latest news from the States, and also in reference to the miseries and hardships undergone during the interval of my absence. The dangers of our mode of travelling were freely expatiated upon, and numerous instances of recent Indian hostilities cited to prove our " fool daring." Among the latter was an outrage perpetrated by the Chyennes, only two weeks previous, in the murder of three white men, — one of whom was the oldest trapper in the mountains, and had been for some time engaged in tlie fur trade. The murderers had the impudence to ask a scalp-feast from the com- mandant of the Fort, according to custom in case of overcoming their ene- mies in battle ! The hair, however, being recognized as that of a white man, no feast was given. When accused of the murder, they apologized by saying the poor fellow was suffering greatly at the time from recent wounds, and they had killed him out of pity ! In our mode of travelling, we always used due precaution to avoid sur- prise and attack. This is easily done, while among buffalo, by noticing their movements, — as these animals invariably flee across the wind upon the approach of man, and neither Indians nor whites can traverse theii range without setting the whole country in motion. We observed another plan of caution by frequently ascending some emi nence, and scanning the wide expanse, far and near. Our general practice was to travel till night, and camp without fire in the open prairie, thus precluding the possibility of being discovered, even though in the immediate vjcinity of Indians. A party of three or four men can pass through a dangerous countiy and avoid coming in contact with enemies, provided they exercise a needful vigi- lance much more easily tlian one of larger numbers. With a large ccmipaiij MEXICANS IN THE MOUNTAINS. 2ll too much dependence is reposed in each other, which soon results in indi- vidual carelessness and neglect. Added to this, they arc apt to rely upon their numarical strength, and, forgetting this simple truism, that " caution is the parent of safety," rush into danger when tliey are least aw are of it. It thus occurs that large parties are more liable to surprise than smaller ones, and more fi-equently sufter losses from the depredations of prowling enemies. On the contrary, where but three or four individuals are travelling together, tney trust exclusively to their own personal vigilance. Keenly alive to every suspicious appearance, they seldom fail to discover the presence of danger without exposing themselves, and may avoid it by a timely retreat or change of course. There is little risk in an open prairie, m case an enemy is first seen by the party wishing to shun his presence ; — they have only to manceuvre in such a manner as to elude observation, (a thing not often difficult,) and all is safe. In subsequent travels through dangerous countries I have always acted upon these suggestions, and never yet found them to fail. Some twelve or fifteen Mexicans were at this time present at the Fort. They constituted a trading party from Taos, escorting a caravan of pack- horses and mules, laden with flour, corn, bread, beans, onions, dried pumpkin, salt, and pepper, to barter for robes, skins, furs, meat, moccasins, bows and arrows, ammunition, guns, cofTee, calico, cloth, tobacco, and old clothes, which were to compose their return freight. A worse looking set was here presented than that previously described in the second chapter of this volume. Some of them were as black as veritable negroes, and needed only the curly hair, thick lips, and flattened nose, to define the genuine Congo in appearance. A more miserable look- ing gang of filthy half-naked, ragamuffins, I never before witnessed. Their cargoes had already been disposed of at various prices, according to circumstances. Flour and meal were sold at from four to six dollars per fanega^ (one hundred and twenty pounds,) and other articles at like prices. Their first asking price was at tlie rate of twenty dollars \ier fanega\ but an afiray which occurred with a small party of Americans, immediately upon their arrival, had made IhQSQ produce merchants much more reasonablo in their demands. The particulars of the affair were rather disgraceful to both parties. The Americans, anxious to purchase a quantity of flour, offered to take it at the asking price, provided the Mexicans would receive their pay in robes ^of a rather indiflTerent quality. This the latter refused and a dispute arose, when insulting language was used on both sides, coupled with threats ol mutual i.njury. The Mexicans retired a short distance and camped, — soon after the Americans, four in number, rushed among them and drove oif their entire cavauaid, containing twenty head of horses and mules. The Mexicans seized their arms for^resistance, and the commandanie advancing demanded of the nearest assailant : " Que quiere, cabeliero ?" (what do you want, sir ?) "Yoteuga lo caballardo, — porque dicirmeesta?" (I have your horses,- why do you ask 7) aifl FORT LANCASTER, ETC. " Carraho, Americana I" said trie Mexican* levelling his gun at the speaker. In an instant a pistol-shot from the latter laid him prostrate, — the ball en- tering his chest near the heart. No further resistance was offered, and the assailants retired with their booty. The next morning, however, they returned, and the two parties com- promised the matter by certain conciliatory arrangements, which resulted in the Americans giving up the captured animals, on condition that the Mexi- cans should in future be less insolent and conduct their trade on more reasonable terms. The wounded man recovered in three or four weeks, and was now ready to accompany liis party on their homeward-bound journey. A large number of Mexicans are employed at tlie different trading posts in this vicinity. They prove quite useful as horse-guards, and also in taking care of cattle and doing the drudgery connected with these estab- lishments. Their wages vary from four to ten dollars per month, which they receive in articles of traffic at an exiiorbitant price ; — viz : calicoes, (indifferent quality,) from fifty cents to one dollar per yard; blue cloth, from live to ten dollars per do. ; powder, two dohars per lb. ; lead, one do. do. ; coffee, one do. do. ; tobacco, from two to three do. do. ; second hand robes, two dollars apiece, — and everything else in proportion. Their wages for a wbole year, in actual value, bring them but a trifling and almost nameless consideration. Notwithstanding, these miserable creatures prefer travelling four hundred miles to hire for such diminutive wages, rather than to remain in their own country and work for less. They knov/ of no better way to get a living, and are, therefore, happy in their ignorance, and contentedly drag out a vyretched existence as best they may. After a period of service they generally return home laden with the pal- try proceeds of their toil, and, yielding to the impulses of custom, a single fandango is sufficient to leave them penniless like the squalid crowd with whom they mingle. A week's stay at tlie Fort restored me to health and soundness from the debilitating effects of the fever and ague, without a resort to medicine. This disease (the first and only attack of which I ever experienced) had made fearful inroads upon my strength during the shoil intervai of its con- tinuance, and rendered rne unfit for travelling ; — but, a change of chmate and the inlialation of the pure mountam air effected a permanent and speedy cure, in a much less time than I had reason to expect. Fort Lancaster occupies a pleasant site upon the south bank of th<^ Platte nver, about nine hundred miies from its mouth, and seven hundred an* twenty from Independence, in lat. 40^ 12' 25'' north, long. 106° 53' 11" west from Greenwich. The distance from this point to the dividing ridge of the Rocky Mountains is about thirty-five miles, and from Taos, in Nev Mexico, between three and four hundred miJes. Long's Peak with its eternal snow appears in distinct view to the west ward, and imparts to the sunset scenery a beauty and grandeur rarely wit nessed in any country. This peak is one of the highest of the mountaii nuQge, being upwards of 13^600 feet above the level of the Guj^f of M^xioo^ SKFTCH OF THE ARAPAHOS. 218 and iesues from its eastern side the waters ol the Atlantic, and from iti western the tnbutaries of the Pacific. Between the mountains and the Fort, the prairie is generally level, though slightly undulating in places ; — it is possessed of a tolerable soil, composed of clay and gravel, ever and anon spreading before tlie traveller rich vait leys, decked with sweet flowers and hisiy herbage. The country eastward is rolling, sandy, and sterile ; and, with few ex ceptions, presents little to attract the eye or please the fancy. The Platte bottoms, above and below, are quite heavily timoered and af ford an abundance of grass of various kinds. The soil is ol a black-, docv loam, very rich and well adapted to cultivation. I'^ie business transacted at this post is chiefly with the Chyennes, but the Arapahos, Mexicans, and Soux also come in for a large share, :inc contribute to render it one of the most profitable trading establishments in the country. Sept. \Oih. Arrangements being completed for resuming my journey* I left Fort Lancaster in company with four others, intending to proceed as far as Taos in New Mexico. We were all mounted upon stout horses, and provided with two pack-mules for the conveyance of baggage and provi- sions. Following the trail leading from the Platte to the Arkansas, or Rio Na- ■peste, we continued our way some thirty-five miles, and halted with a camp of free traders and hunters, on Cherry creek. This stream is an affluent of the Platte, from the southeast, heading in a broad ridge of pine hills and rocks, known as the " Divide." It pursues its course lor nearly s'xty miles, through a broad valley of rich soii, tolerably well timbered, and shut in for the most part by high plats of table land, — at intervals tliickly studded with lateral pines, cedars, oaks, and shrubs of various kinds, — gradually expanding its banks as it proceeds, and exchang- ing a bed of rock and pebbles for one of quicksand and gravel, till it finally attains a width of nearly two hundred yards, and in places is ahnost lost in the sand. The stream derives its name from the abundance of cherry found upon it. The ccuntry passed over from the Fort to this place, is generally sandy, but yields quite a generous growtn of grass. We passed, in our course, the dry beds of two transient creeks, one eight, and tlie other fifteen miles from the Fort. Our route bore nearly due south for twenty miles, following the Platte bottom to the mouth of Cherry creek, thence southeast, continuing up the valley of the latter. The Platte presented heavy groves of timber upcn botii banks, as did also its islands, while its bottoms appeared fertile. The mountains, some fifteen miles to our right, towering- aloft with their snow-capped summits and dark frowning sides, looked like vast piles of clouds, big with storm and heaped upon the lap of earth ; while tlie vapor- scuds that flitted around them, seemed as the ministers of pent up wrath, in readiness tc pour forth their torrents and deluge the surroundiiig plains, or let loose the fierce tornado and strew its path with desolation. Three or four miles before reaching our present camp, we passed a vil- lage of the Arapahos on itfl way to the mountainsi, in pursuit of ^pjxn ai4 FREE ITtADERSL With this the reader is introduced to that nation for the first time, which affords me occasion to speak of them more particularly. The Arapahos are a tribe of prairie Indians, inhabiting the country bor- dering upon the South Fork of tlie Platte and Arkansas rivers. Their territory embraces an extent of about f'^rty-five thousand square miles, a portion of which is well watered and interspersed with numerous fertile spots. Timber is rarely found, except in the creek bottoms and among the mountains. A large section of it, however, is dry, sandy, and sterile, and almost entirely timberless and destitute of water, l^he game of these regions includes all the varieties common to the mountains, which are quite abundant. The territory also possesses large mineral resources, and includes among its stores of hidden wealth, gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, coal, soda, nitre, salt, and sulpher, with vast beds of gypsum. This nation boasts some five hundred and twenty-tive lodges, numbering not far from four thousand souls. In appearance, as well as manners and customs, they assimilate the Sioux and Chyennes. Their insignia of na- tionality is a tattooed breast, by v/hich they are distinguished from neigh- boring tribes. They afTord to the observer the rare instance of increasing numbers in an Indian population. The Arapahos since their first treaty with tiie whites, some fifteen years ago, have maintained terms of the strictest friendship on their part. They have never been known to kill or even injure a white man in the interval, and rarely to steal from him any article of value. They seem to take pleas- ure in the bestowm.ent of kindness and hospitality upon such whenever in their power, but commonly in expectation of reward, and are exceedingly annoying as beggars. These Indians, though brave, are less warlike than contiguous tribes, — being at variance only with the Utahs and Pawnees, whose countries are severally invaded as occasion serves, and often with success. They possess considerable taste for trafficing, and regularly meet the Sioux, Chyennes, Cumanches, and Kuyawas for that purpose, and many of them know how to drive as good a bargain as the most expert Yankee. Notwithstanding the many good qualities possessed by them, they are in- ferior to their neighbors in morality. The Sioux and Chyennes are far more chaste, and never indulge in the low practices common with the Arap- ahos. Virtue with the former is guarded by the strictest vigilance and je&lousy, while with the latter it is made the minister of lust and is prosti- tuted for a paltry bribe. As yet no effort has been made for their improvement, though I regard them as more susceptible of civilization than any other of the prairie tribes. They appear to be great admirers of the mannors, customs, arts, and mode of liv- ing prevalent among the whites, and only lack the requisite instruction to become their successful imitators. The camp at which we are at present located consists of four lodges,— three of whites, and one of Black foot Indians. Each of the whites lias his squaw wife, and the usual accompaniment of ruddy faced children. In regard U.) the latter, I must say thoy were more beautiful, interesting, and intelligent than the same number of full-bloodu,— ■ aither of whites or Indians. BLACKrOOT CHIEF. -P«^« 214. BEARS. 21 These men were living after the fashion of their new-found relatives, and leemed to enjoy themselves as well as circumstances would admit They had a number of horses, with the requisite supply of arms and ammunition,— the sure sources of wealth and comfort in a countr}' abounding with game. The Indian family were relatives by marriage, and were one of snme fif- teen lodges of Blackfeet among the Arapahos, who forsook tiieir own na- tion, on account of its uncompromising hostility to the whites. Quite a number of these Indians have also joined the Sioux and Nesperces, for a like reason. We were entertained very kindly by our new friends who spared no effort to render our stay agreeable. Atnong the delicacies set before us, was one deserving of notice, — it consisted of the fruit of prickly pears (cacti) boiled in water for some ten or twelve hours till it became perfectly soil, when it was compressed through a thin cloth into the fluid in wliich it had been boiled. This forms a delicious variety in mountain fare, and one highly stimulating and nutritious. Sj^ The immense quantities of cadi fruit found near the luountains, at the proper season, render the above an entertainment not uncommon. Sept. IBth. Again under way ; after a ride of fifteen miles, night finds ua at Blackfoot-camp, snugly chambered in d spacious cave, to avoid the disa- greeable effects of a snow-storm that comes upon the reluctant pmrie with all the withering keenness of winter. The cave affording us shelter is formed in an abrupt embankment of lime- stone, that marks the eastern limits of a beautiful valley through which a small affluent of Cherry creek traces its v/ay. The floor is of dry gravel and rock, about fifty feet long by fifteen wide, while upon one side a crystal spring presents its tempting draughts. Thus chambered, a small fire soon rendered ua comfortable and happy, notwithstanding the dreary weather without. Our course during the day bore southward, and led from the valley of Cherry creek to an interesting plateau, furrowed at intervals by deep caa- ons, enclosing broad bottoms of rich alluvion, and ridged upon either hand by high hill^ of pine and ledges of naked rock. The streams are generally timberless, — the soil of the highlands is of a red, clayey mould, and quite fertile. Instead of the aridity incident to the neighboring prairies, it is usually humid. The country hereabouts, for an extent of upwards one thousand square miles, is much subject to storms of rain, hail, snow, and wind, — and it is rarely a person can pass through it without being caught by a storm of some kind. I can account for this in no other way than by supposing it has some connection with the vast quantities of minerals lying embedded in its hills and valleys. Sept. 14th. Morning was ushered in with a pleasant sunshine, that i caused the snow of the past night to yield beneath its melting influences. When on the point of raising camp, an old grizzly bear made her appear- ance with three cubs. An effort to approach her proved futile, — she, hay- ing snuffed the closeness of danger with the breeze, made a hasty reti'Ml with her offspring. 19 fli KIGHT TISITOM. I allude to the above incident for this reason, that it is generally rappoft k the bear produces but two at a birth. Continuing our journey till late at night, we reached an affluent of Fo»- taine qui Bouit, called Daugherty's creek, after travelling a distance of ■ome thirty miles. Here we remained for three or four days, to procure a further supply of provisions. The route from Blackfoot-camp, for the most part, led over a rough country, interspersed with high piny ridges and beautiful valleys, sustain- ing a luxuriant growth of vegetation, which is known as the Divide. This romantic region gives rise to several large tributaries both of the Platte and Arkansas, and furnishes the main branches of the Kansas. Its geological classifications consist of sandstone, limestone, granite, and cre- taceous rock. Large quantities of silex are also found, together with many interesting specimens of petrifaction that principally consist of pine wood ; these, in many cases, exhibit the tree in its perfect shape, with all the grains and pores, that marked its growth. A ride of three hours took us past the heads of Bijou and Kuyawa, whose clear and swift currents, confined to narrow beds, here presented a ■triking contrast to those remarked at their confluence with the Platte. Continuing on a few miles, we reached Black Squirrel creek, an affluent of the Arkansas ; and from thence, after a brisk trot for some fourteen miles over a nearly level prairie, we came to our present camp. Our place of stay was in sweet little valley enclosed by piny ridges. The entrance leading to it is through a defile of hills from whose rugged ■ides protrude vast piles of rock, that afford a pass of only fifty or a hun- dred yards in width. An abundance of grass greets the eye, arrayed in the loveliness of summer's verdancy, and blooming wild-flowers nod to the breeze as enchantingly as when the fostering hand of spring first awoke them to life and to beauty. The creek derives its name from Daugherty, a trader who was murder- ed upon it several years since. At the time he was on his way to the Ar- kansas with a quantity of goods, accompanied by a Mexican. The latter, anxious to procure a few yards of calico that constituted a part of the freight, shot him in cold blood, and hastened to Taos with his ill-gotten gains, where he unblushingly boasted of his inhuman achievement. My excursions among the hills brought before me many interesting geological specimens, mostly such as characterize the Divide. I noticed two or three extensive beds of stone coal in the vicinity of the creek, with an abundance of nitre and other mmeral salts. Having killed three fine cows during the five days we remained at thii place, the scent of fresh meat attracted an old bear and her cub, which, in the expectation of a choice repast, were induced to pay us a night visit. We were quietly reposing at the time, nor dreamed of the ungainly monsters withm camp, till their harsh growls grated upon our ears and raised us each to a speedy consciousness. Instantly every rifle was denched and levelled at the unwelcome intruders, and two discharges bespoke their warm reception. The bears, not fancying this new test «f mendship, quickly withdrew and permitted us to resume our slumbera. Fitxpatrick and Van Dusen, two old mountaineers, passed our ea* SODA SPRING. *1» eampment, in the interim, on their way to the States. Having devoted a numoer of years to the business of trapping, fev/ possess a more intimate knowledge of this country than they. The former of tliese gentlemen was on his return from Oregon with dispatches for the U. S. Government, and had acted as pilot for a party of emigrants to that territory during the pre- ?ious summer. After conducting his charge to their place of destination, he and his companion had travelled thus far alone,* — a distance of more than one thousand miles. Sept. 19th. Leaving Daugherty's creek we resumed our course, and reached the Arkansas the next day, about noon. Here we encamped in a small grove of cottonwood upon the right bank, a fiew miles above the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit. In gaining this point we travelled some forty-five miles, mostly over a sandy prairie, slightly undulating to the leftward, but, to the right, descri bing the waves of a tempest-tossed ocean. Its general character is sterility ; tlie grass gowing thinly and being of a coarse kind, with the exception of that of the creek bottoms, which aflfords several varieties of a lusty size, mingled with occasional spreads of prele — a choice article for the subsistence of horses and mules. In passing along, I observed a new species of the cacti family, that grew in a shurb-like form to a height of five or six feet. Its stalk was round and fully an inch in diameter. This made the fourth variety of cactus noticed during the past few days. Of tliese, two resemble the common " prickly pear " in their appearance. Another species, however, was egg-shaped, bearing a fruit much like the cranberry in color and form. At the proper season, it also produces a beau- tiful red flower, that emits a most agreeable perfume, in some measure atoning for its dreaded intrusion upon the path of the wayfarer. Fontaine qui Bouit, or the Boiling Fountain, is the name bestowed upon a considerable stream that heads under Pike's Peak, in lat. 38'^ 52' 10" north, long. 105°'22' 45'' west from Greenwich, and pursues a southerly course till it unites with the Arkansas. This name is derived from two singular springs, situated within a few yards of each other at the creek's head, both of which emit water in the form of vapor, accompanied with a hissing noise — the one strongly impreg^ uated with sulphur and the other with sodi.f * Before reaching the States, however, he was robbed of everything in Ids ^ •ion by a war-party of Pawnees, whom he had hnprudently sutlered to obtain tha advantage. He would, doubtless, have been killed had it not been for the deteimined courage of Van Dusen. The latter, seizing his rifle, levelled it at the foremost and thus deterred a farther advance ; then, by an adroit movement, breaking from them, set pursuit at defiance throuj^h his fleetness of foot. The Pawnees, noAv well aware that fiirther outrages would be made luiown and become a subject of investigation by the U. S. Government, forbore their designs, and returned to Fitzpatrick liis gun and one nude, with Vv'hich he accomplislied tha remainder of his journey alone. Van Dusen, having succeeded in reaching Beut'« Fort on the Arkansas, reported his companion as killed by them. t Capt. Fremont, who visited Fontaine qui Bouit in the summer of '43, has fumuiik •d tha following analysis of an iucrustation with which the water of tins spring hHLl 220 A LOTELY TALURT The soda water is fully as good as any manufactured for espp.nial use and sparkles and foams with equal eflervescence. This spring, though at present cool, is said to have been formerly quite the reveig*?. Some twen ty years since, the heat was sufficient to cook fiesh in an haif hour's time, if submerged in its waters. The Arapahos regard this phenomenon with awe, and venorate it as the manifestation of the immediate presence of tlie Great Spirit, They call it the Medicine Foumain, and seldom neglect to bestow their frifts upon it whenever an opportunity is presented. These offerings generally consist of robes, blankets, arrows, bows. jmives, beads, moccasins, &.C., which they eit/ier throw into the witer oi oang upon the surrounding trees. Sometimes a whole village will visit the place for the purpose of paying their united regard t;> tliis sacred fountain. The seceiiery of the vicinity is truly magnificent. A valley several yards in width heads at the springs, overloolSng which from the west in almost perpendicular ascent tower the lofty summits of I^ike's Peak, piercing the clouds and revelling in eternal snow, at an altitude of 12,500 feet above the level of the sea. This valley opens eastward, and is walled in upon the right and left, at the mountains' base, by a stretch of high table land, surmounted by oaks end stately pines, with now and then an interval displaying a luxuriant coating of gross. The soil is a reddish loam, and very ricli. The trees which skirt tiie creek as it traces its way from the fountain aie generally l?ee from under-brush, and show almost as much regularity of pi sition as If planted by the hand of art. A lusty growth of vegetation is sustained &mong them to tlieir very trunks, which is garnished by wild flowers, tliat, CiUring the summer months, invest the whole scene with an onchantraeni |;aciiliar to itself. The climate too is far milder in this than in adjoining regions, even of % more southern latitude. 'Tis here " summer first unfolds her rcbes, and •^re tlie longest tarries." The grass, continuing green the entire winter, feere first feels the genial touch of spring. Snow seldom remain? upon the gromid to exceed a single day, even in tlie severest weather, while the Sieighboring hills and prairies present their white mantlings for v/eeks in iuccession. A« the creek emerges from the mountains, it increases in size by the ac- cession of several tributaries, and the valley also expands to a width of eovered a piece of wood ; and, though probably not a fair test, it will afford ♦h* readeir some idea of ita mineral properties : Carbonate of lime ■ • • • • • W, 25 Carbonate of mai^esia ^ • • • • 1, 21 Snlpliate of lime 1 Chloride of calcium S . . , . - 83 Chloride of raAffnena i Siliea 1» M V«ntable mfOter ...... 90 MflMon and km • • 4, 61 100, W ncnflTY OF THE ARKANSAfl. Ml fliiee or four mUes, retaining for a considerable distance th« distinguiihing tTa\ts before described. The vicinity affords an abundance of game, among which are deer, aheep, bear, antelope, elk, and buffalo, togetlier with turkeys, geese, ducks, grome, mountain-fowls, and rabbits. Aflbrding, as it does, such magnificent and delightful scenery; such rich scores for the supply of human wants, both to please the taste and en raptui^ the heart : so heaven-like in its appearance and character, it ia no wonde? the untaught savage reveres it as the place wherein tlie Good Spirit delights to dwell, and hastens with his free-will oflerings to the •trange fountain, in the full belief tliat its bubbling waters are the more immedia\e impersonation of Him whom he adores. But, there are other scenes adjoining tliis, that demand a passing notice. A few miles above Fontaine qui Bouit, and running parallel with the east- em base o( the mountain range, several hundred yards removed from it, a wall of coarse, rcd granite (quite friable and constantly abrading) towers to a vajied height of from fifty to three hundred feet. This wall is formed of immense strata, planted vertically and not ex- ceeding eight feet in thickness, with frequent openings — so arranged as to describe a complete line. The soil in which they appear is of a reddish loam, almost entirely des- titute of other rock, even to their very base. This mural tier ia isolated, and occupies its prairie site in silent majesty. as if to guard the approaches to the stupendous monuments of nature's handiwork that form the back-ground, disclosing itself to the beholder for a distance of more than thirty miles. CHAPTER X\J. Vicinity of the Arkaniaa. — Settlement.— The Piiebio.— Rio San Carlos, ite valleya and scenery. — Shooting by moonlight. — Taos. — Review of the country travelled over. — ^Tao8 ; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. — Rancbos and Rancheros. — Mexi- can houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. — Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their char acter, and some of the causes contributing to their present degradation.— The Pue bio Indians and their strange notion.s. — Ancient temple. — Character of the Pueblos —Journey to the Uintah river, and observations by the way.— Taos Utahe, Pa- utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. —The Diggers; misery of their situation, stra-ige mode of Uving, with a sketch of their character.— The Navijos ; their civiUzation, koetillty to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. Thb Arkansas at tliis point is a clear and beautiful stream, about one hundred and fifty yards wide. It flows over a bed of rock and pebbles, with a rapid current, averaging two feet in depth. Its soutiiern bank is steep and inducts to a high sandy prairie, which present a somewoat et^- 19* 222 THB KIO BAi« CARLOS. ile and denuded appearance. The northern shore affords a wide bottoir of black loam, generally fertile, and timbered with occasional groves of cot« ton wood. Beyond this a high undulating prairie, presenting now and then a cluster of pines and cedars, leads off to the neighboring mountains. The river above, for a distance of some forty miles, possesses many beautiful valleys, well timbered, and a rich soil, until the traveller irrives at the place where it makes its entree from the lofty mountain chain in which it heads. The land indicates a fitness for agricultural purposes, and hjlds out strong inducements to emigrants. A small settlement of wtites and half-breeds, numbering fifteen or twenty families, has already been com- menced about thirty miles above the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit under qaite favorable auspicies. The only fears entertained for its siicccfes, are on account of the Indians, Many other localities in this vicinity are equally inviting vera it not for the character and habits of the surrounding natives. At the delta, formed by the junction of Fontaine qui Bouit with the Arkansas, a trading fort, called the Pueblo, was built durmg tlie summer of 1642. Tills post is owned by a company of independent traders, on the common property system ; and, from its situatioc, can command a profitable tiade witli both Mexicans and Indians, Its occupants number ten or twelve Americans, most of whom are married to Mexican women, while everything about the establishment wears the aspect of neatness and comfort SefU 22d. Crossing the Arkansas, I for the first time set foot upon Mexican soil. Taking the Taos trail, we continued our way for ten or twelve miles and came to the Rio San Carlos. Here the abundance of deer and tur* keys was too great a temptation to be resisted, and we remained several days to bestow upon them that attention our appetites demanded. The country adjacent is very romantic and beautiful. The hills, en closing the valley of the San Carlos upon botli sides, are high and preci- nitous, — affording numerous groves of pine, pinion,* and cedar. Inter- spersed among them are frequent openings and prairillons of rich soil and luxuriant vegetation. The valley is narrow, but fertile and well timbered. Near the head of the river is a broad area, known as Fisher's-hole, bound ed upon all sides by rugged hills and mountains, inaccessible except by a circuitous pass leading into it from the south. The stream forces its egress through a ledge of dark-colored rock, several hundred feet in alti- tude, leaving vertical walls upon each side for a long distance, that fr^ quently o^ erhang the gurgling waters sweeping at their base. ♦ Tlds tree is a sixjcies of pine, quite common in New Mexico, California, and »ome parts of the ranuntains. It yields a kind of nut similar to that of the beech, wluch is esteemed as an article of food. Wild turkeys dehght to frequent grovM of lhi« timber, and will thrive in an extraordinary manner upon pinion-nuts. TAOS AND ITS VICINTIT. 223 This valley contains more than a thousand acres of choice land, well supplied with timber from the heavy pine forests surrounding it. The prevailing rock is granite, sandstone, limestone, and lias, with occasional conglomerates of various kinds. I noticed strong indications of copper and other minerals ; and the general appearance of the coun- try led me to conclude it to be one possessed of vast stores of hidden wealth. While here, we were quite successful in replenishing our stock of provisions. My experiments in turkey-hunting made me a proficient shot by moon, light, a feat which adds materially to the sport. This is done by manoeu- vring so as to have the turkey in a direct line between the marksman and the moon, causing its shadow to fall upon his face, — then, raising his rifle to a level from the ground upwards, the instant the sight becomes darkened he fires, and, if his piece be true, seldom fails to make a centre shot. The most feasible mode of hunting turkeys is to watch their roostino' places at night ; and, after the moon attains the required position, they may be killed by dozens in tho above manner. They rarely leave theii roosts on account of the firing ; but remain, half stupified with afiright, while they are picked off one after another by the practised hunter. Sept. 26i/i. Again resuming our journey, we reached Taos on the Is' of October. Our stay at this place was prolonged for several days, during which time we took boarding with a Mexican lady, the widow of an American trader. The country travelled over en route, from the San Carlos to Taos is very rough and mountainous, but variegated by many fertile valleys skirting the numerous tributaries of the Arkansas and del Norte. The trail crosses several of the latter streams, for the most part bear- ing an easterly course ; among which are the Cornua Virda, Huaquetore, Timpa, Apache, and Piscliepa. These creeks frequently pass through deep canons of sandstone and limestone for a distance of several miles together, — disclosing upon all sides a wild and romantic scenery. The great fault with the valleys is a lack of timber ; the hills, however, are generally supplied with pine pinion, and cedar, which, in a measure, atones for the above deficiency. -On leaving the Pischepa, a reach of little more than one Jornada (day's travel) leads over the mountain range, separating the waters of the A' kansas and del Norte, at a point bearing a short distance to the left of two famous landmarks, called the Spanish Peaks. Here the traveller is at once ushered into the valley of Taos ; and. continuing on, in a brief interval finds himself surrounded by a clan of half-naked Mexicans. Taos proper embraces several fertile lateral valleys bordering lapoE the del Norte, and three small affluents from the east and is supposed to contain a population of some ten thousand, including Indians, Moor* Half-breeds, Mulattoes, and Spaniards. It is divided into several pro 2»i ^ MEXICAI< HOUSES. cinti, or neighborhoods, within short distances of each other, among which Arroyo Hondo is the principal. This section of country is very romantic, and affords many scenes to excite the admiration of beholders. It is shut in by lofly mountains, upon three sides, that tower to an altitude of several uiousand feet, now presenting their pine-clad summits among the clouds, now with denu- ded crests defying the tempest ; and then peering skyward to hold con- verse with the scathing blasts of unending winter. The mountains are rich in minerals of various kinds. Gold is found in considerable qui ntities in their vicinity, and would doubtless yield a large profit to diggers, were they possessed of the requisite enterprise and capital. At present tliese valuable mines are almost entirely neglected — the common people being too ignorant and poor to work them, and the rich too ijidoient and fond of ease. The Mexicans possess large raiichos of sheep, horses, mules, and cat- tle among the mountains, which are kept there the entire year, by a degraded set of beings, following no business but that of herdsmen, or rancheros. This class of people have no loftier aspirations than to throw the lasso with dexterity, and break wild mules and horses. They have scarcely an idea of any other place than the little circle in which they move, nor dream of a more happy state of existence than their own. Halt-naked and scantily fed, they are contented with the miserable pittance doled out to them by the proud lordlings they serve, while their wild songs merrily echo through the hills as they pursue their ceaseless vocations till deatJi drops his dark curtain o'er the scene. There are no people on the continent of America, whether civilized or uncivilized, with one or two exceptions, more miserable in condition or des- picable in morals than the mongrel race inhabiting New Mexico. In say- ing this, I deal in generalities ; but were I to particularize the observation would hold good in a large majority of cases. Next to the squalid appearance of its inhabitants, the first thing that arrests the attention of the traveller on entering an Mexican settlement, is the uninviting mud walls that form the rude hovels which constitute its dweUings. These are one story high and built of adobteSy with small windows, (like the port-holes of a fortification,) generally witliout glass. The entrance is by an opening in the side, very low, and frequently unprotected by a door. The roof is a terrace of sod, reposing upon a layer of email logs, affording but poor protection from the weather. The interior presents an aspect quite as forbidding ; — the floors are sim- ply the naked grouijd, — chairs and tables are articles rarely met with. In case of an extra room, it is partitioned off by a thin wall of mud, commu- nicating with its neighbor through a small window-shaped aperture, and serves the double purpose of a chamber and store-house. A few rags, tattered blankets, or old robes, furnish beds for its inmates, who, at nightfall, stow themselves away promiscuously upon the ground or in narrow bins, and snooze their rounds despite the swarms of noxious ▼tnnin that infest them, (companions from which tliey are aeldom £reo; ABJECT CONDITION OF MEXICAliS. 226 whether sleeping or waking, — and afford them, perhaps, in greater nnmbet and variety of species than any other known people.) But, before the picture is complete, we must be indulged in a brief sketch of their kitchen economy. Knives, forks, spoons, and plates, seldom grace the board of a Mexican in common circumstances. A single pot of earth, a knife, two or three trenchers, and as many water-gourds, constitute almost the entire kitchen furniture of the lower classes ; — a kind of gruel {tolle) made by stirring a few handfuls of flour into boiling water or milk, is their principal subsis- tence. Meat finds no place upon their larder,— it being an article too costly for ordinary food, as the sheep and cattle of the country are owned by the wealthy, and by their exorbitant demands placed beyond the means of the commoner. Wood too, bemg two rials (25 cents) per mule-load, is seldom used in the large towns for other than culinary- purposes. During the winter months, these filthy wretches are seen, day after day, basking at the sunny side of their huts, and bestowing upon each other certain friendly offices connected with the head, wherein the swarming populace of the pericranium are liad in alternate requisition. The entire business of the country is in the iiands of the rich, upon whom the laboring classes are mainly dependant for support ; and, as a natu- ral consequence, the ricii know no end to their treasures, nor the poor to their poverty. The common laborer obtains only from four to six dollars per month, out of which he must feed and clothe liimself. In case he runs in debt beyond his means, he is necessitated by law to serve for the required amount, at two dollars per month ; — thus, once in debt, it is almost impossible ever to extricate himself. But a thing adding still furtiier to his load of misfortunes is the hign {nice set upon the necessaries and comforts of life. This ranges as fol- ows : coffee, from 37^ to 50 cts. per lb. ; sugar, from 18 to 25 cts. per do.; calico, from 25 cts. to $1 per yd.; domestic, 25 to 50 cts, ; broadcloths, irom $10 to $20, and every thing else in proportion. Under such circumstances, it is scarcely marvellous that we find the Mexican in his present low state of degradation. Having faintly depicted the real condition of a large majority of the de- generate inhabitants of New Mexico, it will be expected of me to say some- thing of their intelligence and morality ; and here a still more revolting task awaits my effort. . Intelligence is confined almost exclusively to the higher classes, and the poor " palavro^" comes in for a very diminutive share. Education is entirely controlled by the priests, wno make use of their utmost endeavors to entangle the minds of their pupils in the meshes of superstition and bigotry. The result of this may be plainly stated in a few words : Superstition and bigotry are universal,— all, both old and young, being tied down to the disgusting formalities of a religion that manifests itself in little else than senseless parade and- unmeaning ceremony, — while a large majority can neither read nor write. 226 WHY SO DEGRADED. Tliese conservators of intelligence and morals are often as sadly deficient in either as those they assume to teach. Gambling, swearing, drinking Sabbath-breaking, and sundry other vices, are the too frequent concomitanta of their practice ; — under such instructors, who can fail to foresee the attendant train of evils ? The abject condition of the people favors the im- press of unsound instruction and deteriorating example, reducing public morals to a very low ebb. Property and life are rdike unsafe, and a large proportion of the whole com- munity are little other than thieves and robbers. Profanity is their common language. In their honesty, integrity, and good faith, as a general thing, no reliance should bo placed. They are at all times ready to betray their trust Vv'henever a suracient inducement is presented. With the present of a few dollars, witnesses may be readily obtained to swear to anythiiig; and a hke bonus placed in the hands of the Alcaldi will generally secure the required judgment, however much at variance with the true merits of the tduse. Thus, justice becomes a mere mockery, and crime stalks forth at noon- day, unawed by fear of punishment, and mirebuked by public opinion and practice. But fear, in most cases, exercises a far more controUing influence over them than either gratitude or favor. They may be ranked with the few exceptions in the family of man who cannot endure good treatment. To manage tiiem successfully, they must needs be held in continual restraint, and kept in their place by force, if necessary, — else they will become haughty and hisolent. As servants, they are excellent, when properly trained, but are worse than useless if left to themselves. In regard to the Mexican women, it would be unfair to include them in thepreceding sunuuary. The ladies present a striking contrast to their countryman in general character, other than morals. They are kind and airectionate in their dis- position, mild and afPabie in their deportment, and ever ready to administer to the necessities of others. But, on the score of virtue* and common chastity, they are sadly deficient ; u'liiie ignorance and superstition are equally predominant. One of the prime causes hi producing this deplorable state of things may be i'. M bated to that government policy which confines the circulating me- dium of the country within tuo narrow limits, and thus throws the entire business of the country into the hands of the capitalist. A policy like this must ever give to the rich the moneyed power, while it drains from the pockets of the poor man and places him at the mercy of haughty lordiings, who, taking advantage of his necessity, grant him but the scanty pittance for his services they in tender compassion see tit to bestow. The higiier classes have thus attained the supreme control, and the com- moners must continue to cringe and bow to their will. la tJiis manner th«> .atter have, by degrees, lost all ambition and self-respect, — and, in degrada^ tion, are only equalled by their efieminacy. THE PUEBLO INDIANS. W? of little moral restraint, and interested in nothing but the d« BHinds of present want, they abandon themselves to vice, and prey upon one another and those around tliem. Acting upon the principle, tliat " necessity knows no law," they know no law for necessity, and help themselves without compunction to whatever chance throws in their way. To this we may also look for a reason why the entire country is so in- fested with banded robbers, that scour it continually in quest of plunder. Mankind are naturally vicious ; and, wlien necessity drives them to wrong for the procurement of a bare subsistence, they are not slow to become adepts in the practice of evil. A few miles to the southeast of Taos, is a large village of Pueblos, or civilized Indians. These are far superior to their neighbors in circum- stances, morals, civil regulations, character, and all tlie other distinguishing traits of civilization. This race are of the genuine Mexican stock, and retain many of their ancient customs, though nominally Catholic in their religion. Cherishing a deep-rooted animosity towards their conquerors, they only await a favorable opportunity to re-assert their liberty. They live in houses built of stoiie and earth, and cultivate the ground for a subsistence,— own large herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, — whUe their women spin and weave, with no small p etentions to skill. Among their peculiarities is the belief, still entertained by many of them, that Montezuma, their former emperor, w^ill yet return from the Spirit Land, and, placing himself at the head of his people, enable them to overcome the despoiiers of his ancient dominions. In this strange faith a fire was kept burning without intermission, from the death of Montezuma till within ten years past, (a period of nearly three centuries,) as a beacon-light to mark the place for his appearing. This fire was sustained by an ancient order of priests ministering at a temple of unknown age, the ruins of which, it is said, are yet to be seen two miles back from St. Miguel, in a very good state of preservation. By verbal descriptions received from those who have visited them, I am led to infer that they aiFord many curious and interesting evidences of Mexican grandeur and tend to shed much hght upon their former history and reli- gion. The sculpture is said to represent men and animals of difierent kinds, in many strange varieties of shape and posture ; among them are beasts, birds, and reptiles, some of which are of unknown species. ' The workmanship is rather rude and without much regard to uniformity or proportion of paits, yet possessing a wild beauty and harmony peculiar to itself alone, that at once strikes the beholder with feelings of pleasing^ wonder. I had cherished tiie intention of visiting personally these strange relics of the past, but was induced to defer it for a more convenient oppoitunity than the present ; and. finally, from my subsequent connection with the Tesans, 1 abandoned it altogether. The Pueblos number a population of several thousand, and are scattered iv«r a connderabie eictent of territory. They bestow much attention to the 228 IITAH INDUNS. inculcation of good morals in the minds of their children ; and, in portraying the pernicious effects of evil-doing, frequently admonish them in a quaint and expressive manner, — "If you do thus and so, you will become as bad as a Spaniard /" — This seems to constitute, in their opinion. t]ie grand cli- max of everything vile and degrading. They are represented as humane and brave, and strictly honest and up- right in their dealings. Their women too are chaste and virtuous, and in this respect present a very favorable contrast to their fairer and more beau- Uful sisters of Spanish extraction. A small party from a trading establishment on the waters of Green river, who had visited Taos for the procurement of a fresh supply of goods, were about to return, and I availed myself of the occasion to make one of their number. On the 7th of October we v/ere under way. Our party consisted of three Frenchmen and five Spaniards, under the direction of a man named Roubi- deau, formerly from St. Louis, Mo. Some eight pack-nuiles, ]aden at the rate of two hundred and fifty pounds each, conveyed a quantity of goods ;*— these headed by a guide followed in Indian file, and the remainder of the company mounted on horseback brought up the rear. Crossing the del Norte, we soon after struck into a large trail bearing a westerly course ; following wJiicli, on the 1 3th inst. we crossed the main ridge of the Rocky Mountains by a feasible pass at the southern extremity of the Sierra de Anahuac range, and found ourselves upon the waters of the Pacific. Six days subsequent, we reached Roubideau's Fort, at the forks of the Uintah, having passed several large streams in our course, as well as the two principal branches which unite to form the Colorado. This being the point of destination, our journey here came to a temporary close. The intermediate country, from Taos to the Uintah, is generally very rough and diversified with rich valleys, beautiful plateaux, (tierras iemplaf das,) arid prairies, sterile plains, (llanos,) and denuded mountains. We usually found a sufficiency of timber upon the streams, as well as among the hills, where frequent groves of pinion, cedar, and pine lent an agreeable diversity to the scene. Game appeared in great abundance nearly the whole route, — especially antelope and deer. The prevailing rock consisted of several specimens of sandstone, pudding- stone, and granite, with limestone, (fossiUferous, bituminous and argilla- ceous,) and basalt. This territory is owned by the Utahs and Navijo Indians. The former of these tribes includes four or five divisions, and inhabits tlio country laying betv/een the Rio del Norte, the Great Salt Lake, and the vast desert to the soutliward of it. These different fractions are known as the Taos, Pa-uta|i, Digger, and Lake Utahs, numbering in all a popula- tion of fifteen thousand or more, and exliibiting many peculiarities of character and habits distinct from each other. The Taos Utahs are a brave and warlike peo})le, located upon the del Norte a short distance to the northwest of Taos. These subsist principally by hunting, but raise large numbers of horses. They are generally treach- THE DIGGERS. t28 erous and ill-disposed, making alike troublesome neighbors to the Spaniards and dangerous opponents to the whites, whenever an opportunity is pre- sented. The Pa-utahs and Lake Utahs occupy the territory lying south of the Snakes, and upon tlie waters of the Colorado of the west, and south of the Great Salt Lake. These Indians are less warlike in their nature, and more friendly in their disposition, than the Taos Utahs. The persons and property of whites, vis- iting them for trade or other purposes, are seldom molested ; and all having dealings with them, so far as my information extends, unite to give them a a good character. They rarely go to war, and cm content to enjoy the blessings of peace, and follow the chase within tl. limits of their own hunting grounds. The Diggers, or rather a siiiali portion of them, are a division of the Utah nation, inhabiting a considerable extent of the barren country directly southwest of the Great Salt Lake. They are represented as the most de- plorably situated, perhaps, of the whole family of man, in all that pertains to the means of subsistence and the ordinary comforts of life. .- The largest (and, in fact, almost the only) game found withui their terri- tory, is a very small species of rabbit, whose skins sewed together consti- tute their entire clothing. The soil is too barren for cultivation, sparsely timbered, and but illy supplied with water. The consequence of these ac- cumulated disadvantages is, that its unfortunate inhabitants are left to gather a miserable substitute for food from insects, roots, and tlie seeds of grass and herbs. In tlie summer months they lay in large supplies against the approach of winter, — ants furnishing an important item in the strange collection. These insects abound in gieat numbers, and are caught by spreading a dampened skin, or fresh-peeled bark, over their hills, which immediately at- tracts the inquisitive denizens to its surface ; when filled, the lure is care- fully removed and its adherents shaken into a tight sack, where they are confined till dead, — they are then thoroughly sun-dried, and laid away for use. In this manner they are cured by the bushel. The common way of eat- ing them is in an uncooked state. These degraded beings live in holes dug in the sand near some watercourse, or in rudely constructed lodges of ibsinthe, where they remain in a semi-dormant, inactive state the entire winter, — leaving their lowly retreats only, now and then, at the urgent calls of nature, or to warm their burrows by burning some of the few scanty combastibles which chance may afllbrd around them. In the spring they creep from tiieir holes, not like bear — ^fattened from a long repose — but poor and emaciated, with barely flesh enough to hide their bones, and so enervatei^ from hard farcr and frcq lent abstinence, that they can scarcely move. So habituated are they to this mode of fife from constant inurement, they appear to have no conception of a better one. Their ideas and aspirations are as simple as their fare. Give them an occasional rabbit, with an abundance of ants, seeds, and roots, and they are content to abide in their desert home and burrow like tlie diminutive animal they hunt. ^^ 530 SKETCH OF THE NAVUOS. They entertain great dread of the whites, whose power to do them harm they have learned on several occasioDs by bitter experience. These pain- ful lessons have generally been inculcated as follows : impelled by hunger, these miserable creatures have sometimes attempted to kill the animals of trapping parties ; and the trappers, in order to prevent a repetition of such occurrences, have been accustomed to siioot down their rude assailants without mercy. Since the practice of this summary mode of chastisement has ob- tained, those able to run will flee with the utmost consternation on the approach of a party of whites, — leaving the feeble and infirm in the rear, who employ their most piteous supplications and moving entreaties fer mercy. Thes eindians possess a capacity for improvement, whenever circumstan- ces favor them. I have seen several, both of men and women, taken from among them while young, who, under proper instruction, had made rapid progress, and even disclosed a superiority of intellect, compared with like examples from other nations, — a fact contributing much to prove that man- kind Heed only to be placed in like conditions by birth and education to stand upon the same common level. Most of them are represented as inoffensive in their habits and charac- ter, — never going to war, and rarely molesting any one that passes through their country. Their arms are clubs, with small bows and arrows made of reeds- affording but a poor show of resistance to rifles, and a dozen moun- taineers are rendered equal to a full army of such solders. The Navijos occupy the country between the del Norte and the Sierra Anahuac, situated upon the Rio Chama and Puerco, — from thence extending along the Si-rra de los Mimbros, into the province ofSonora. They are a division of the ancient Mexicans ; hat have never yet fullj succumbed to Spanish domination, and still liiainiain against the con querors of their country an obstinate and uncompromising warfare. Like their ancestors, they possess a civilization of their own. Mos of them live in houses built of stone, and cultivate the ground, — raising vegetables and grain for a subsistence. They also grow large quanti ties of horses, cattle, and sheep — make bu ter and cheese, and spin an^ weave The blankets manufactured by these Indians are superior in beaut} of color, texture, and durability, to the fabri -s of their Spanish nf;igh bors. I have frequ'Mitly seen tliem so closely woven as to be imper vious to water, and even serve for its transportation. The internal regulations of this tribe are represenied, by those inor< intimately acquainted with them, as in strict accordance with the wel- fare of the Avhole community. Lewdness is punished by a])ublic expo- sure of the culprit ; dishonesty is held in check by suitable regulations , industry is encouraged by general consent, and hospitality by common practice. In their warfare with the Spaniards, they frequently exhibit a strange mixture of humanity and ludicrous barbarity. WHY DISTRUSTFUL OF THE WHITES. 331 They never kill women or children when in their power, but retain Ihem as prisoners. The men, however, are invariably dispatched. But in the latter, a comedy not unfrequently precedes the tragedy which closes the scene. Taking their cue from the passionate fondness of the Spaniards for dancing, at times, when any one of these unfortunate wretches falls into their power, tliey form a ring around him, and provi- ded with switches, compel him to dance until from exhaustion he can do so no longer, after which he is unfeelingly butchered. His cruel tormenters continue singing, as they force him to dance his oum death' dirge, and laugh at his faltering steps. As warriors they are brave and daring, and make frequent and bold ex- cursions into the Spanish settlements, driving off vast herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, and spreading terror and dismay on every side. Aa diplomatists, in imitation of their neighbors, they make and break trea- ties whenever interest or inclination prompts them. The Navijo country is shut in by high mountains, inaccessible from without, except by limited passes, through narrow defiles well situated for defence on the approach of an invading foe. Avaihng themselves of these natural advantages, they have continued to maintain their ground against fearful odds, nor have they ever suffered the Spaniards to set foot within their territory as permanent conquerors. The valleys of the Chama and its tributaries are said to be unrivalled in beauty, and possessed of a delightful climate, as well as an exuberant fertility of soil. In these valleys winter is comparatively unknown and ve- getation attains an extraordinary size. The mountains abound with game, and are rich in all. kinds of minerals. Some of the most valuable gold mines in Mexico are supposed to be held by the Navijos. I have convers- ed with several Americans who have travelled to considerable extent in the territory of these Indians, and all unite to speak of it in most flatter- ing terms. The Catholics maintain numerous missions among them, and have succeeded in propagating their peculiar religious notions to some extent, notwithstanding their continued hostilities with the Spaniards. The Navijos are generally friendly to the Americans visiting them ; but were formerly much more so than at present. This partial estrange- ment may be attributed to the depredations of a party of Americans, under the lead of one Kirker, who were employed by the governments of Santa Fe and Chihuahua, to oppose their incursions. This was done with great success — the mercenaries despoiling their property, butchering their warriors, and bearing off men, women, and children, as captivog to be oqA into slavery. 232 CHAPTER XXII. Uiaiah trade.— Snake Indians; their country and character.— Description of Upptz California.— The Eastern Section.— Great Salt Lake nn J circumjacent country.— . Desert. — Digger country, and regions south. — Fertility of -oil. — Prevailing rock and minerals. — Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and gameis — VaUey of the Colorado. — Magnificent scenery. — Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. — Vicmity of the Gda. — Face of the country, soil &c. — Sweet epots. — Mildness of climate, and its healthiness. — ^Tlie natives. — Sparsity of inhabitants.— No government. — All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. — Abundance of fish.— Trade in pearl oyster-shells.— Practicable routes from the United States. In preceding remarks relative to regions coming under present observa- tion, I have confined myself to generalities, for the reason, tliat less interest is felt by the American public, in a minute description of the rivers, moun- tains, valleys, etc., so far within the limits of Mexico, than in one connected with U. S. Territories ; consequently the reader must rest contented with greater conciseness in subsequent pages, until he is again introduced to the interesting localities of his own country. Roubideau's Fort is situated on the right bank of the Uintah, in lat. 40° 2T 46" north, long. 109° 56' 42" west. The trade of this post is con- ducted principally with the trapping parties frequenting the Big Bear, Green, Grand, and the Colorado rivers, with their numerous tributaries, in search of fur-bearing game. A small business is also carried on with the Snake and Utah Indians, living in the neighborhood of this establishment. The common articles of deaUng are horses, with beaver, otter, deer, sheep, and elk skins, in barter for ammunition, fire-arms, knives, tobacco, beads, awls, &c. The Utahs and Snakes aiford some of the largest and best finished sheep and deer skins I ever beheld, — a single skin sometimes being amply suffi- cient for common sized pantaloons. These skins are dressed so neatly as frequently to attain a snowy whiteness, and possess the softness of velvet. They may be purchased for the trifling consideration of eight or ten charges of ammunition each, or two or three awls, or any other tiling of propor- tional value. Skins are very abundant in these parts, as the natives, owing to the scarcity of buflTalo, subsist entirely upon small game, which is found in immense quantities This trade is quite profitable. The articles pro- cured so cheaply, when taken to Santa Fe and the neighboring towns, find a ready cash market at prices ranging from one to two dollars each. ^ The Snakes, or Shoshones, live in the eastern part of Oregon and in Upper California, upon the waters of tiie Great Snake and Bear rivers, Bind the two streane which unite to form tlie Colorado. VIEW OF UPPER CAUFORjriA. ^^ They are friendly to the whites, and less disposed to appropriate to their urn use everything they can lay hands on, than some other tribes. Thejr seldom go to war, though by no means deficient in bravery, — frequently re- sisting with signal success the hostile encroachments of the Sioux and Chyennes. Rich in horses and game, they likewise include within their territory many interesting and beautiful localities, as well as some extraor- dinary natural curiosities. One division of this tribe is identified with the Diggers in habits and mode of living, — tlie same causes operating in each case to produce the same results. Another division is identified with the Crows, arid yet a third one with the Utahs, — numbering in all not far from twelve thousand- Being less migTatory in their habits, and more tractable in their dispositioo than those of their eastern brethren demontes, they are fat more susceptible of civiHzdtion and improvement ; though, as yet, nothing has been done for tiieir benefit. The missionary might here find an encouraging field for Ms philanthropic exertions. With the passage of the mountain chain, noticed in the preceding chap- ter, the reader is inducted to the northeastern extremity of California. My intention of visiting the interior of this interesting province of the Mexican Republic was frustrated through the lack of a convenient oppor- tunity for its prosecution ; but, as the public mind, cluring the past few years, has been so much occupied with subjects connected with this couii tiy, I am unwilling to pass on without presenting a brief description of it, obtained from sources upon which full reliance may be placed. The following sketch, coupled with my own observations, is carefully arranged from informatioh derived from indviduals encountered during my stay in this country, some of whom had travelled over most of it, and others had resided for years within its confines. On referring to the map, a large extent of country will be noticed, bounded upon the north by Oregon, east by the Rocky Mountains, south by the Lower Province and Gulf of Cahfornia, together with the Rio Gila which separates it from Sonera, and west by the Pacific, situated between parallels 32*' and 42° north latitude, which is now known as Upper Cah- fornia. This embi-aces an extent of nearly 460,000 square miles, and is walled in for the most part upon the north and east by lofty mountains, impassable except at certain points ; while upon the west and soutli its vast stretch of lea-coast, navigable rivers, and commodious harbors open it to the commer- cial intercourse of all nations. 4^ The entire country is more or less broken by hills and mountains, many of them towering to a height of several thousand feet above the level of the sea, whose summits, clothed with eternal snow, overlook the valleys of perennial verdure that so frequently lie around them. The most noted of these is the California, or Cascade range, which, by intersecting the prov- ince from north to south, separates it into two grand natural divisions, pro- periv denominated Eastern and Western California. The above range, though higher than the principal chain of the Rocky Mmmtuns, is passable at various points. It is situated inland from tM SS4 TH£ GREAT SALT LAKE, ETC. Pacific at distances varying from one hundred and fifty to four hnndred miles, tracing its way with diminished altitude adown the isthmus that forma the Lower Province. Owing to its locality, a description of the Eastern Division seems to come naturally the first in order. This section is watered principally by the Colorado, Gila, and Bear riv- 3rs, with their numerous tributaries, and has also several lakes in various ^arts of it, prominent among wliich is the Great Salt Lake near the north- ern boundary. This large body of water is nearly one hundred and fifty miles long by eighty broad ; and, though the receptacle of several large rivers, has no visible outlet, and hence is supposed by many persons to held subterranean connection with the Ocean. Its waters are so strongly impregnated wii i ealt, incrustations of that mineral are frequently found upon its shores. Towards the northern extremity an island makes its appearance, fi*ow« whose centre a solitary mountain rises in proud majesty for nearly a thou- sand feel above tlie circumlluent waters ; its craggy sides, naked and de* olate, with whitened surfitce, now inspire the beholder with feelings of awe, while its bounding streamlets, skirted with verdant openings and di minutive trees, strike the eye pleasantly, as the sheen of their waters falls upon the vision and ■ engenders commingled sensations of dehght and ad- miration. Viewed from tlie northern shore, this island seems not more than twelve nules distant ; a deception caused by the extraordinary purity of the at- mosphere. Several attempts to reach it, however, by means of canoes, have proved futile, owing to its great distance the dangerous state of navi- gation. It is thought by many persons that still other islahds of larger dimen- sions occupy the centre of the lake, and not without some show of reason ; there is ample room for tliein, and, although this vast body of water has been circura-traversed per shore, it*has never yet been otherwise explored by man* TliO largest of the rivers that find their discharge in this vast saline re- «ervoir is the Big Bear, a stream which rises near the South Pass, and, following its meanderings, is about two hundred and fifty or three hundred miles in length. It rolls leisurely on with its deep sluggish volume of waters, measuring some two hundred yards wide at its mouth, and depos- ites its willing tribute into the bosom of this miniature ocean, while foui or five other fresii water affluents from the east and south make a like de- bouche witliout increasing ils^ize or diminishing its saltness. The valleys of tlie.^e streams possess a very rich soil and are well tim- bered. The landscape adjacent to the lake is diversified with marshes, nlains, highlands, and mountains, aflbrding every variety of scenery. The toil is generally fertile and prolific in all kinds of vegetation as well aa fruits indigenous to the country. • Recently, however, (Japt. Fremont reports his having succeeded m reacliing thi tsland nearest to the norlhern shore, but he was unfortunately prevented a furthei exploration. In his account of this he makes no mention of trees or streams of water «pon the mountain. 1 have described it only as it appears when viewed from tbe wmim had. DESCRIPTION OF EASTERN SECTION 235 Timber also abounds in sufficient quantity for all necessary purposes\ Grame too is found in ^reat abundance, particularly deer and elk ; and, ta- ken as a whole, the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake holds out strong in- ducements to settlers, and is capable of sustaining, as it will no doubt ulti-; mately possess, a dense population. Forty or fifty miles west and south from this the traveller is inducted to the vast expanse of sand and gravel, lying between lat. 35° and 40° north which is almost entirely destitute of both wood and water. This reach is upwards of three hundred miles in length and nearly two hundred broad. It is impassable at all seasons of the year on account of its extreme dryness and lack of suitable nourishment for animals ; and even a trip from Santa Fe to Western California, by the regular trail, is rarely undertaken except in the fall and spring months, at which tiiine tlie ground is rendered moist by annual rains and the transient streams venture to emerge from their sandy hiding places. The Digger country, of which I have taken occasion to speak in con- nection with its unfortunate inhabitants, lies upon the eastern and southern extremities of this desolate waste, and presents an aspect little less for- bidding. As a general thing the landscape is highly undulating and varied with conical hills, some of which are mere heaps of naked sand or sun-baked clay of a whitish hue ; others, vast piles of granitic rock, alike destitute of vegetation or timber; while yet others are clothed with a scanty heibaga and occasional clusters of stunted pines and cedars. Now and then a diminutive vega intervenes in favorable contrast to the surrounding desolation, greeting the beholder with its rank grasses, mingled vdth blushing prairie-flowers. But such beauty-spots are by no means frequent. The watercourses are mere beds of sand, skirted with sterile bottoms of stiff clay and gravel, and aiford streams only at their heads, while, for nearly the entire year, both dew and rain are unknown. Vegetation, con- sequently, is sparse and unpromising, and the whole section of necessity remains depopulated of game. It is needless to say such a country can never become inhabited by civil- ized man. Between the Colorado river and the California mountains, south of the cheerless desert above described, the prospect is far more flattering. Th<3 hills are of varied altitude and are usually clothed with grass and timber ; while comparatively few of them are denuded to any great extent. ThF> landscape is highly picturesque and pleasingly diversified with mountaiii?i, hills, plains, and valleys, which afford every variety of chmate and soil. This section is principally watered by the Rio Virgen and lateral ■treams ; and, though little or no rain falls in the summer months, the co- piousness of nightly dews in some measure make up for tliis defect. The superfice of the valleys ranges from one to three feet in depth, and eeneraily consists of sedimentary deposites and the debris of rocks, borne &om the neighboring hills by aqueous attrition, wliich, mingled with a dark-colored loam compounded of clay and sand, and various organic and Tegetable remains, unite to form a soil of admirable fecundity, rarely equaU gi« by *iMrt of arvY other country. 936 LANDSCAPE SCENES. The hills, however, are unfit for cultivation to any great extent, owing to their common sterility as well as the abundance of rock in many parts ; yet they miglit serve a good purpose for grazing lands. The prevailing rock is said to be sandstone, limestone, mica slate, tjap, and basalt ; the minerals, copper, iron, coal, salt, and sulphur. Game exists in great abundance, among which are included antelope, deer, (black and white-tailed,) elk, bear, and immense quantities of water- fowls ; large herds of wild horses and cattle, also, are not unfrequently met V ith. Tii.iber is usually a scarce article, which constitutes one grand fault in the entire section of Eastern California. This evil, however, is partially re- medied by a mild climate, and only a comparatively small amount of wood is required for building, fencing, and fuel. Fruits of ail kinds indigenous to the country, particularly grapes, are found in great profusion, and those native only to the torrid and temperate zones may also be successfully cultivated. Among the grasses, grains, and vegetables growing spontaneously in some parts, are red-clover and oats, (which atttain a most luxuriant bulk,) flax and onions ; the latter not unfrequently equalling in size the proudest products of the far- farmed gardens of Wetliersfield. We are now naturally led back to the Colorado, and the comitry lying between it and the Sierra de los Mimbros range, on the east. This division embraces much choice land in its valleys, but tlie high grounds and hiUs present much of the dryness and sterility incident to the grand praries. The valley of tlie Colorado averages from five to fifteen miles broad, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles above its mouth. Further on, the passage of the river through high mountains and tierras templadas (table lands) presents an almost continuous gorge of vertical and overhanging rocks, that, closing in upon the subfluent stream at a va- ried height of from fifteen to six hundred or even a thousand feet, afford only an occasional diminutive opening to its waters. This vast canon is said to extend for five or six hundred allies, interrupt- ing the river with numerous cataracts, cascades and rapids, and opposing to its swift current the sharp fragments of severed rocks thrown from the dizzy eminences, as breakers, by which to lash the gurgling waters and depict the more than tempest-tossed foam and maddened fury of old ocean ! In some places the impending rocks approach so near to each other from above, a person may almost step across the vast chasm opening to view the foaming river, half obscured in perpendicular distance and dimmed by the eternal sliadows of thrice vertical v/alls. This superbly magnificent scene continues nearly the entire extent, from >iie head of the Colorado valley to the boundary between Oregon ftnd Cali- iomia. The table lands and mountains on both sides, as a whole, disclose a a dreary prospect. Now, the traveller meets with a wide reach of naked rock paving the surface to the exclusion of grass, shrubs, or tree, — now, a narrow fissure, filled with detritus and earth, sustains a few stunted pines, — now, a spread of hard sun-baked clay refuses root to aught eartli-growing, — now, a small sptace of saline efflorescences obtrudes upon the vision iti mow? iocnuitatioiu, alike repalaive to vegetable lift } — tnem, cornea a broMi INHABITANl'a 237 area clothed with thin coarse grass ; an opening vallon next greets the eye in the generous gro^vth of its herbage and the fertihty of its soil ; a beauti- ful grove of stately pines, cedars, and pinions, rises in tlie back ground ; a Btill larger, more expansive, and thrice lovely valley, skirts the banks of some bounding stream, and delights the fancy with its smiling flowers and luxuriant verdure. Here, a huge mountain rears itself in majesty— now, piling heaps upon heapa of naked granite, limestone, sandstone, and basalt, variegated and parti-col- ored, — now, thickly studded with lateral pines, cedars, pinions, and hem- locks, — then, again denuded, tiU at last its sharpened peaks pierce the clouds while storms and tempests in their wild orgies haste to do it reverence. There, a lesser, coniform elevation of the continuous chain, is mantled in living green ; while perhaps by its side, another pains the eye with the well defined lineaments of desolation. A country of this description occupies nearly tlie whole interval from the two main branches of the Colorado to the dividing ridge of mountains. The valleys of the Uintah, and several other affluents within its limits, however, are broad, fertile and tolerably well timbered. Grass continues green nearly the entire winter, and game of all kinds common to the moun- taiiis, excepting bufialo, is abundant. The valley soils are well adapted to cultivation, and might sustain a large population. We come now to the soutlieastern extremity of the province, bordering upon the Rio Gila which separates it from.Sonora, and lying between the Colorado and the Sierra de los Mirabros range. This stretch, though less fertile as a general thing, partakes of much the same characteristics as that upon the opposite side of the Colorado, and upon Rio Virgen, south of the Digger country, which was so fully described upon a former page. The soil, however, is not generally so sandy, and the landscape is far more rough and broken. The bottoms of the Colorado and Gila, with their tributaries, are broad, rich, and well timbered. Everything in the shape of vegetation attams a lusty size, amply evincing the exuber- ent fecunmty of the soil producing it There are many sweet spots in the vicinity of both these streams, well deserving the name of earthly Edens, Man here might fare sumptuously, with one continued feast spread before him by the spontaneous products of the earth, and revel in perennial spring or luxurate amid unfading summer. Yet, notwithstanding the other attractions held out, game is much lesi plentiful in this than in other parts, — probably owing to the warmth of the climate. Winter is unknown, and the only thing that marks its presence from that of other seasons, is a continuation of rainy and damp weather for some two or three months. All the wild fruits and grains mdigenous to the country are found here in profuse abundance. The entire Eastern Division of Upper CaUfomia possesses a uniformly aalubrious and healthful atmosphere. Sickness, so far as my knowledge eaEtends, is rarely known. The natives, for the most part, may be considered friendly, or at leaiti not dangerous. Some of them, in the neighborhood of the Gila and thi Gulf of Califomia are partially advanced in civilization, and coUivale tfaa gHHUidf xaifling com, melona, pumpkins, beans, potatoes, dlM. 288 ROUTES FROM 1 Ii£ UI^jrED STATES. - These live in fixed habitations, constructed of wood, and coated with earth, in a conical form, much like Pav/nee huts. f The condition and character of these tribes present mo^t flattering in- ducements for missionary enterprise '; and, should eflbrts for their ameliora' tion be put forth by zealous and devoted men, (and meet with no coiuiter- acting opposition from tiie united influence of the Mexican Government and the narrow minded bigotry of an intolerent clergy and priost-ridden people,).- a glorious fruition of their most sanguine hopes might soon be expected. There are no settlements of either whites or Mexicans, to my knov; ledge througJiGut the whole extent of this territory. Indians may, therefore, J>8 considered its only inhabitants, other than the strolling parties of tiappers and traders that now and then travel it, or temporarily establish themselves witiiin its limits. Of course then the Eastern Division of Upper Califor- nia must be considered without a people or a government. The Hif Colorado rises in the U. S. territory about lat. 42"^ 30' north, interlocking with tiie head waters of the Columbia, Missouri, Platte, and Arkansas, and empties into the Gulf of Cahfornia neav lat. 32° north. Following its windings it is some twelve or fifteen hundred miles in length. This stream with its numerous tributaries is the only river worth naming in Eastern California, and, to a great extent, serves to water ihat country. Owing to the rapidity of its current and its frequent fails and cascades, the navigation is entirely destroyed, till within about one hundred iniles of its mouth, at the hartd of tide water ; from this on no further interruption oc- curs, and the depth is sufficient for vessels bearing several hundred tons burthen. The Gila is properly a river of Sonora, though commonly regarded as the northern bonndury of that province. It rises in the Sierra de ios Mimbros, near lat. 33*^ 25' north, long. 106*^ 15' west from Greenwich, ?did pursues a west-southwesterly course till it discharges itself into tJie Bay of the Colorodo, at lat. 32=* 16' north, long. 11 4« 27' west. Its whole length is about eight hundred miles, for most of which distance navigation is impracticable, with the exception of some forty miles or more at its mouth. These two rivers are said to aflTord immense quantities of fi^h, especially near their confluence with the Gulf of Cahfornia. The Gulf also contains a large variety and exhaustless supplies of the fiimy tribe, together with several species of the crustaceous and testaceous order. Among tlie last named are lobsters, crabs, clams, and oysters. Oysters are very numerous and of an excellent quality, including ic variety the genuine mother pearl. A small trade in tlie shells of the pearl oyster is carried on with the Arapahos, Chyemies, and Sioux, by the Spaniards, which yields a very large profit, — a single shell frequently bringing from six to eight robes. These Indians make use of them for 9ar-ornaments, and exhibit no little taste in their shape and finish. The eastern section of Upper California is accessible by land as well as lea from several feasible passe? through the mountain ranges forming iti tastern boundan'. The best lana routes for waggons from the United States is through the South Pass, — thenoe, to the Great Salt Lake by Bear river valley ♦—tneno^ WESTERN CALIFORNU. 239 the emigrant can direct his course to any part of the country, as interest or inclination may su^^gest. Another pass is airorded by way of the Santa Fe trail near iaU 37* north ; tiiis, however, is a very difficult one for waggons, and should only be travelled on horseback. Tliere are said to be one or two other passes further south, in reference to which I cannot speak with certainty, but am incUned to accredit their reported existence. CHAPTER XXIII. MmenJs,— Western CaJifomia.— Tlie Sacramento and contigaouB regions. — Principal rivers. — Fish. — Comnrsercial advantages — Bay of San Fmnciaco. — Other Baya and Harbors.— Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; Tlamath mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; Southern parts ; timber ; river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare ; their extent, fertiUty, timber and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneous ; wonderiul fecundity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, rains and dews ; geological and mineralogi- cal character; face of the country; its water; its heaUhiness ; game ; superabun- dan(^e of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabi- tants, who ; Indians, their character and condition ; Capital of tlie Province, with other towTTis ; advantages of San Francisco ; inland settlements ; foreigners and Mexicans; Government; its full raiMtaryetrerigth.— Remarks. In the preceding chapter the reader must have acquired some tangible idea of the true condition of Eastern California, with all its varied beauties and deformities ; its Edens and wastes of desolation ; its enchantments, and scenes of awe and terrific grandeur. To have treated the subject more in extenso, would have trespassed upon prescribed brevity; yet, doubtless, many will regret my having said so httle relative to the mineralogical character and resources of that country. The truth is, comparatively little is known upon this important matter. Were ^I to give ear to common report, I would say there are both gold and silver, with copper, lead, and iron. But such stories are not always to be credited unless they como in a credible shape. However, it is very probable tliese metals do exist in various parts ; and certain it is that immense berls of coal and rock-salt are afforded, with large quan' ities of gypsum, the truth of which is placed beyond doubt by an accumulation of teritimony. With these few remarks I turn from the subject, and bring before the reader another and more interesting topic. Following the only practicable waggon route froni tlie U. S. to Western California, via Soutli Pass, — tiiencer after bearing northwest some forty miles, by a long swoep southward around the Sierra Nevada to the Rio Sacrimento, — the emigrant is taken through a succession of mountains, hills, plains, and vaDeys, furrowed by frequent aflhient.s from the north;— JR9W, sterile wastes of intervenlDg sand ; now^ pleasant iproadj* of anble 240 ABUNDANCE OF naU pmiries } now, rugged superfices of naked rock ; then, beautiful valleys arrayed in all the loveliness of perennial verdure, and profuse in vegetation of extraordinary growth, intermixed with wild-flowers of unrivalled hues and lavish fragrance, till he finally reaches his destination. The Sacramento and its tributaries water the greater part of Western California. This river is formed by the confluence of two large streams which rise in the Cascade Mountains, properly termed the North and South Forks the former heading near lat. 41"^ 43' north, long. lU*^' 51' west. (The Sout* Fork is the stream defining the waggon route from the U. States, via SoutI Pass.) The Sacramento, measured by its windings, is about eight hundred and fifty miles in length. It receives many important auxiliaries above the junction of its two forks, which greatly increase the volume and depth of its waters. From its mouth it is said to afford a good stage of navigation for crafts of tolerable burthen, as high up as three huni-ed miles, — ^tide water setting back for one Imndred and fifty miles. Three other rivers, flowing from the southeast, have their discharge in the Bay of San Francisco. These streams are severally called the Rio del Plumas, American Fork, and Tulare. The former derives its name from the great abundance of water-fowls which congregate upon it at all seasons of the year, so numerous and tame that the natives not unfreqaently kill large quantities of them with clubs or stones as they fly through the air. The del Plumas is said to be navigable, for boats of a light draught, till within a hundred miles of its head, — its wliole length is about two hundred and fifty miles. The American Fork, or the Rio de los Americanos, is a clear and beautiful stream about one hundred and fifty miles long, emptying into the Sacramento Bay below the del Plmnas, and between it and the Tulare. Owing to frequent rapids, however, its navigation is destroyed. The Tulare is said to be four hundred miles long, and navigable for one half tliat distance. It i.^ represented as watering one of the most interest- ing sections of Western California, and hence is considered next in impor- tance to the Sacramento. This stream affords some of the finest localities for settlements found in the wholo country. Below the Bay of San Francisco several other small streams find their way into the Pacific, but none of them are navigable to any great extent. The principal of these empty as folio w.s ; into the Bay of Monterey, into the Ocean near Point del Esteros, Point Arguello, St. Barbara Channel, San Pedro Bay, and opj,;o3ite the island of St. Clement Above the Bay of San Francisco, Russian river is discharged into Bodega Bay ; further on, Smith's river empties into Trinidad Bay ; and two other small streams find their discharge near Point St. George, a few miles below tlie boundary line hct-\'eei- Orc^'on and California. Smitli's river is the largest stream either above or below the Bay of San Francisco, and is alxjut two hundred miles in length, though un- navigable. Afi these various rivers and their atfluents are stored with innnmerabla fappiies of dehcious fish, tlie principal of which are salmon and salmon Th» Ocean too a^rds an exbaudtleM quantity of tho piicatoiiit SOIL, CLIMATE, ETe. 241 fiunily, including whales, cod, and haddock, with oysters, clams, lobsters, dLC So great is the abundance of fish at certain seasons, that, with a rude seine, the natives frequently take fifteen or twenty barrels full at a single draught ; fish constituting their principal subsistence. There are few, if any, countries in the world possessed of superior com* mercial advantages to the western 'section of Upper California. True, its inland navigation is limited ; yet, with an extent of nearly eight hundred miles of sea-coast, accessible at almost any point, it includes some of the finest bays and harbors ever known. Of these, for commodiousness and safety at all times, the Bay of San Francisco stands pre-eminently con spicuous. This bay is an arm of the sea extending some forty miles or more inland, ehut in, for the most part, upon each side by precipitous banks of basalt and trap, that skirt a very broken and hilly country contiguous to it. The entrance from the ocean is by an opening, a mile or more in width, through rock-formed walls, between one and two hundred feet high. A recent traveller,* in describing this bay, says : — " From the points forming the entrance, the sea gradually expands to some eight or ten miles in extent, from north to south, and twelve from east to west. At the extreme eastern part of the vast basin thus formed, its shores again clo:se in abruptly, contracting so as to leave a pass of about two miles in width, which forms the entrance to a second bay of still larger dimensions. From this gorge their high rocky banks again diverge for some ten miles, when they still again contract to the narrow space of one mile, and form the passage to a third. The latter is more spacious than either before mentioned, and, formed in like manner, extends twelve miles from east to west and fifteen from north to south, aflTording the safest and most commodious anchorage." There is ample water at all times for the entrance of ships of the largest class, and it is asserted confidently, that these three united bays would afford perfect safety, secure anchorage, and ample room for the fleets and navies of all nations. Several other bays and harbors are situated along the coast, all of which, to a greater or less extent, are favorably spoken of for general safety and good anchorage. Among the above are mentioned the Bay of Monterey, San Pedro, St tXego, Bodega, and Trinidad. Bodega, however, is represented as being, at times, very unsafe and even dangerous. With such extraordinary facilities for commerce, it needs no prophetic eye to forsee the position Western California is destined to assume, before many years have passed, and, from her position and natural resources, will be enabled successfully to maintain among the foremost nations of the eartli — provided, always, that some other people more enterprising and en- lightened than the prescn'r inert, ignorant, stupid, and mongrel race infest- ing it with their presence, take possession of the country, develop its enes- gies and bring to light the full beauty of its natural lovliness. We are now led to speak of the peculiarities of soil , landscape, scenery *Hutingt. 21 242 COUNTBY BELOW THE SACRAMENTO. climate, productions, and niineral resources of this interesting country , and in so doing, I would fir^t draw a succinct view of the territory lying between the Rio Sacramento and Oregon. Here we find the most forbidding aspect, with one exception, of any in Western California. The soil is generally very dry and barren, and the face of the country broken and hilly. The streams of water (as in the Eastern Division) frequently sink and become lost in the sand, or force themselves into the Ocean and parent streams by percolation or subterrane- an passages. In many places is presented a surface of white -eun-baked clay, entirely destitute of vegetation ; and in others, wide spreads of sand, alike denuded ; and yet again iron-bound superfices of igneous rock. Now and then groves of pines or firs spread their broad branches as it were to cover the nakedness of nature ; while here and there a valley of greater or less extent smiles amid the surrounding desolation. All the various streams are skirted with bottoms of arable soil, ofttimes not only large but verj' fertile, though perhaps unadapted to cultivation, on account of their dryness, without a resort to irrigation. Smith's river pursues its way, for forty or fifty miles, through a wide bottom of rich soil, most admirably suited for agricultural purposes v/ere it not for its innate aridity ; — however, during the summer season, it is, to a limited extent, watered from nightly dews, which enable it to sustain a luxuriant vegetation. Not one fourth part of the northwestern portion of this section is fit for tillage. That part contiguous to the sea-coast is sandy and far less broken than those sections less interior. The Tlameth Mountains, pursuing a west-southwest course from Oregon, strike the coast near lat. 41° north. This range has several lofty peaks covered with perpetual snow, and shoots its collateral eminences far into the adjacent prairies. There is one feasible pass through this chain a few miles inland from tlie coast, that serves well for the purpose of intercommunication with OregoiL The less elevated parts of these mountains are frequently covered with groves of small timber and openings of grass suitable for pasturage, while intermingled with them are occasional valleys and prairillons of diminutive space, favorable to the growth of grain and vegetables. The same may bt said in reference to the California chain for its whole extent, especially in the vicinity of the prairie. Following the course of this latter ridge from north to south, we find upon both sides a reach of very broken and highly tumulous landscape, Bome twenty or thirty miles broad. Near the head-waters of the Sacramento, these lands are well watered md possess a general character for fertility, producing a variety of grass, with shrubs and a few scattering trees. Below, however, they are more Bterile, owing to the deficiency of water ; but yet they afford numerous invit- ing spots. A considerable extent of country, south of the South Fork of the river above named, is arid and stei ile, and has but few streams of water. It sus- tains, however, among its hills and in its valleys, a sparse vegetation that EXTRAORDINARY PRODUCTIVENESS. 24« might be turned to a favorable account for grazing purposes. Only about one fourth of this country is adapted to other uses than stock-raising. Further south from the head-waters of die Tulare and del Piumas, rang ing between the coast and the high rollhig lands skining the base '^f the California Mountains to the boundary of the Lower Province, a section of gently undulating prairie, now and then varied with high hills and some- times mountains, aifords a rich soil, generally consisting of dark, sandy loam, between the hills and in the valleys ; the higlilands present a super- fice of clay and gravel, fertilized by decomposed vegetable matter, well adapted to grazing, and about one half of it susceptible of cultivation. Timber is rather scarce, except at intervals along the watercourses and occasional groves among the hills ; but along the coast dense forests are frequently found claiming trees of an enormous size. But, one grand defect exists in its general aridity, which renders neces- sary a resort to frequent irrigation in the raising of other than grain pro- ducts. In some parts, the abundance of small streams v/ould cause this task to become comparatively an easy one ; and the profuseness of dews in sections contiguous to the rivers in some measure answers as a substi- tute for rain. The bottoms are broad and extensive, yielding not only the most extraor- dinary crops of clover and other grasses, but incalculable quantities of wild *>ats and flax of spontaneous growth, with all the wild fruits natural to the climate. In returning to the Sacramento and the rivers which find their dischar- ges in the Bay of San Francisco, we have before us the most interesting and lovely part of Upper California. The largest valley in ihe whole country is that skirting the Sacramento and lateral streams. This beautiful expanse leads inland from the Bay of San Francisco for nearly four hundred miles, almost to the base of the Cal- ifornia Mountains, and averages between sixty and sixty-five miles in width. The valleys of the del Plumas and American Fork are also very large, and that of the Tulare gives an area of two hundred and fifty miles long by thirty-five broad. These valleys are comparatively well timbered with several varieties of wood, consisting principally of white-oak, live-oak, ash, cottonwood, cherry, and willow, while the adjacent hills afford occasional forests of pine, cedar, fir, pinion, and spruce. The soil as well as the climate is well adapted to the cultivation of ajl kinds of grain and vegetables produced in the United States, and many o:' the varied fruits of the torrid and temperate zones can be successfully rear- ed in one and the same latitude. Among the grains, grasses, and fruits indigenous to the country are wheat, rye, oats, flax, and clover, (white and red,) with a great variety of grapes, all of which are said to grow spontaneously. Wild oats frequently cover immense spreads of bottom and prairie land, sometimes to an extent of several thousand acres, which resemble in ap- pearance the species common to the United States. They usually grow tc a height of between two and thi'ee feet, though they often reach a heigbi •f Mven feet. 244 6E0L0GY AND MINERALS The wild clover of these valleys is much like the common red, and, 1b some places, is afforded in great abundance. It attains a usual height of two feet and a half, though it often measures twice that height-— standing as thick as it can well grow. Forty bushels per acre is said to be the average wheat crop, but sixty and even one hundred bushels have beon grown upon a Uke spot of groundf. This grain generally reaches its maturity in three or four months from tlie time of sowing. Corn yields well, and affords an average of from fifty to sixty bushels per acre, without farther attention from the time of planting till picking. Potatoes, onions, beets, carrots, &c., may be produced in any quantity with very little trouble. Tobacco has also been raised by some of the inhabit- ants with most flattering success. Perhaps, no country in the world is possessed of a richer or more fruit- ful soil, or one capable of yielding a greater variety of productions, than the valleys of the Sacramento and its tributaries. The articles previously noticed are more or less common to the bottoms and valleys of other sections. Grapes abound in the vicinity of most of the creeks, which afford generous wines and delicious raisins in immense quantities. The climate is so mild that fires are needed at no season of the year for other than cooking purposes. By aid of irrigation, many kinds of vegeta- bles are fresh-grown at any time, while two crops of some species of grain may be produced annually. Flowers are not unfrequently in full bloom in mid winter, and all nature bears a like smiling aspect. In this, however, we of course refer only to the low-lands and valleys. The traveller at any season of the year may visit at his option the frosts and snows of eternal winter, or feast his eyes upon the verdure and beauty of perennial spring, or glut his taste amid tlie luxuriant abundance and rich maturity of unending summer, or indulge his changeful fancy in the en- joyment of a magnificent variety of scenery as well as of climate, soil, and productions. The only rains incident to this country fall during the months of De- cember, January, February, and March, which constitute the winter; at other times rain is very rarely known to fall. Perhaps, for one third of the four months before named, the clouds pour down their torrents without in- termission ; the remaining two thirds afford clear and delightful weather. During the wet season the ground in many parts becomes so thoroughly saturated with moisture, particularly in the valley of the Sacramento, that, by the aid of copious dews to which the country is subject, crops may be raised without the trouble of irrigation ; though its general aridity con- ■titutes the greatest objection to California. Of its geological and mineralogical character little is yet known. The prevailing rock is said to be sandstone, mica slate, gianite, trap, basalt, puddingstone, and hmestone, with occasioua] beds of gypsum. Among its minerals as commonly reported, are found gold, silver, iron, coal, and a variety of salts. The mineral resources of the country have not been as yet fully investigated to any great extent, but the mountains ^n different partVy 9ii supposed to he rich in hidden stores. GREAT ABUNDANCE OF STOCK. 245 To speak of Western California as a whole, it may be pronounced hilly, if not mountainous, and about two thirds of it is probably fit for agricultu- ral purposes. The creeks are frequently immured by precipitous walls of several hund- red feet in altitude, that, expanding here and there, give place to beautiful valleys of variable width, while most of the low-lands upon their banke are skirted by continuous and abrupt acclivities leading to the high prai- ries, table lands, and mountains contiguous to them. Their currents are geneially clear and rapid, flowing over beds of sand, pebbles, and rock, and aflbrd wholesome and delicious Vv'-ater. The air is almost invariably pure and free from the noxious exhalations c^aramon to many countries, which contributes greatly to render the climate uniformlyhealthy— a character which it has hitherto sustained by common report. Some travellers, however, speak of large Indian villages in difierent parts, deserted and in ruins, v/hose sites are bestrewn with human bones and sculls, as if the entire population had been swept oiT by the frightful ravages of deadly pestilence, and so suddenly that not a soul was left to bury their dead ; and hence they suppose the country occasionally subject to devastating sicknesses. The above, however, may with equal propriety be charged to the account of war. Game is quite plentiful in the Western Division of Upper California, and in many places extremely abundant, especially in the mountains near the head-waters of the Tulare and Sacramento rivers. Among the different varieties are enumerated deer, (black-tailed and white-tailed,) elk, antelope, goats, bear, (black, red, and grizzly,) beaver, geese, brants, ducks, and grouse, with wild horses and cattle ; — bufl^o are unknown to the Province. Never was a country better adapted to stock-raising than is this, and perhaps none, according to the number of its inhabitants, ?o abundantly supphed with horses, cattle, and sheep. The former of these abound in counties.; numbers, whenever a .white man or a Spanio-Mexican makes it his residence. A single individual frequently owns from eight to ten thou- sand head of horses and mules ; and, not rarely, even as high as fifteen or twenty thousand. These anima.s a:e very hardy and trim-built, and only a trifle smaller than those common to the United States. I have seen many of them equal- ly as large as the American breed, and, as a general thing, they are more durable under fatigue and hardship. The choicest animals from a band of several thousand may be purchas- ed for ten dollars, and the ordinary price for prime selections ranges from three to five dollars, while mares may be procured for two dollars per head. Cattle are equally plenty, at prices varying from two to four dollars per head. Stock is raised without trouble, as the abundance of grass aflbrds pas- turage the entire season, nor is necessary a resort to either hay or house. In fact, botli cattle and liorses not only thrive best but are fattest in the winter season, owing to the absence of flies and insects, as well as the partial freshness of vegetation. The common method of stock-raising is by turning them loose into th« 21* 246 PRINCIPAL TOWNS. bottoms and prairies, accompanied by a herdsman, or two, or more, a la Mexican^ (according to the size of the band,) where they are left to in- crease, and no further care is bestowed upon tiiem. Sheep too are raised in vast numbers after tlie above manner. They in- crease with astonishing- rapidity, and usually produce their young twice a year. Their wool, however, is much coarser tiian that grown in the United States. This latter fact is accounted for by their inferiority of breed, though their flesh is sweeter and better than the American mut- ton. Wolves are said to be numerous and troublesome, and not unfrequently prove a source of great annoyance to the inliabitants by destroying their sheep, calves, colts, and even full-grov/n cattle and horses. Among them are included the black, gray, and prairie wolf. The black wolf is the largest and most ferocious, equalhng the size of our common cur-dog. Foxes are also said to be numerous, but are of a diminutive size. The above are the only beasts of prey worth naming. The foregoing summary leads us to notice the present state of the country, its inhabitants, government, and milittiry strength. Upper California at the present time is in the united possession of the Indians, Mexicans, English, and French ; not as rulers, but as land-holders and inhabitants. The Indians are supposed to number some thirty or forty thousand ■ouls, and are scattered over the entire Province. Excepting the Dig- gers, the UtahK, the Snakes, and those residing in the vicinity of the Sierra Nevada and the Tiameth Mountains, they are quite similar in character and condition to those noticed as being residents of the Gila and adjacent regions. They are mild and timorous, and incapable of opposing any very se- rious impediment to the progress of settlements. Fifteen Americans, armed with good rifles, are equal to one or two hundred of such ene- mies in ordinary cases. The Catholics have tv/enty or more missions among them, tlie eflect of which has been not so much to advance their civilization, or convert them to the trutlis of Christianity, as to render them the slaves of a cor- rupt and vicious priesthood. Monterey is the present capital of Upper California. It is beautifully situated upon a gently undulating plain, in full view of the Ocean and harbor, and contains about one thousand inhabitants. Its houses are constructed of adubies, after the Mexican fashion. South of this town are several other places of considerable impor- tance along the coast, viz : San Diego, San Gabriel, snd San Barbara ; all of which are well located for commercial purposes. A town called the Pueblo is situated upon a small river that debouches between San Diego and San Gabriel. This town is a few miles removed from the coast, and is said to bo the largest one in California. It containi a population of about fifteen hundred, and is the grand centripot of over- land intercourse with New Mexico. Above Monterey are two other towns, bearing the names of Sonoma uid tS&n Francisco Mexican Indians. — Page 246, WHAT THE BESULT mLL BE 249 The latter is situated upon the bay of that name, and, from its superior commercial advantages, is destined to become one of the largest and meet Important business cities upon the western coast of the American conti- nent. Possessed of one of the finest and most conmiodious harbors in the world, (emphatically the harbor of harbors,) and located at the mouth of a large navigable river, that waters a vast expanse of country unsurpass- ed in fertility, what should hinder it from assuming that commanding po- sition designed for it by nature 1 It is built after the English manner, and its inhabitants, numbering about two hundred, are principally American, Enghsh, and French, with 1 few Mexicans and Indians. There are also several settlements upon the Sacramento and other rivers, consisting mostly of foreigners. The Catholic missions are generally the nitcleus of small Mexican and Indian villages, and derive their support from agricultural pursuits. Aside from these, the country is entirely devoid of population other than wild beasts and uncultivated savages. The white inhabitants are com- puted at one thousand or more, and are generally Americans ; while be- tween ten and twelve thousand Mexicans curse the country with their presence, and disgrace the Edens they possess. The government of California has been, like all Mexican governmental very lax and inefficient. It was but little other than a despotism, or, ra- ther, a complicated machine for the oppression of the people and the perxer* Hon of justice ! and infiuitely worse than none. Whether the late revolution has produced a better order of things re- mains to be detennined ; but, one fact is worthy of notice — no permanent reformation can be effected so long as Mexicans exercise any controlling influence in the administration of the laws ; and, to speak plainly, not un- til the government is placed in other and better hands. The Mexicans occupy eight military stations at different points along the coast, garrisoned by about three hundred and fifty soldiers, and mount- ing some fifty pieces of artillery. The largest of these fortifications is at Monterey. This post is garrisoned by two hundred soldiers, and twelve pieces of canon — while the fort at New Helvetia, held by the Americans^ mounts an equal number. In case of an emergency, it is supposed the wliole Mexican force might possibly amount to between ten and eleven hundred men — in efficiency nearly equal to a party of one hundred and fifty well-armed Americans. It wtII be seen at a mere glance, th:it Mexico cannot maintain her hold upon California for many years to come. Emigrants from the United States and other comitries, attracted by its fertile soil and healthful climate, will continue to pour into it with increased ratio, until, by outnumbering the degraded race that at present bears sway, this delightful portion of the globe shall of necessity become either the dependencjr of some foreign power or assume a separate and distinct existence as an independent nation. 250 CHAPTER XXIV. Viffltors at Uintah —Adventures of a trapping party.— The Munchies, or white In(L ana ; some actonnt of them. — Amusements at rendezvous. — Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration, — speculation relative to its inhabitants.— Leave for Fort Hall. — Camp at Bear river. — Boundary between the U. Stales, and Mexico. — Green valleys, &c. — Country en route. — Brown's-hole. — (Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculiarities. — Mmerals. — Valley of Bear river; its fertility, timber, and ahimdance of wild fruit. — Buffalo berries — Superior advantages of this section. — Mineral tar. Our stay at the Uintah was prolonged for some ten days. The gentle- man in charge at this post spared no pains to render my visit agreeable, and, in answer to enquiries, cheerfully imparted all the information in his possession relative to the localities, geography, and condition of Jie sur- rounding country. A trapping party from the Gila came in soon after our arrival, bringing with them c lich quantity of beaver, which tliey had caught during the pre- ceding winter, spring, and summer upon the affluents of that river and tlie adjacent mountain streams. They had made a successful hunt, and gave a glowing description of the country visited, and the general friendliness of • its rntiabitaiils. The natives, in some parts of their range, had never before seen a white man, and, after the.first surprise had subsided, treated them witlt great de- ference and respect. These simple and liospitable people supplied them with corn, beans, and melons, and seemed at all times well disposed. The only difficulty encountered with them took place upon one of the northern tributaries of the Gila. Two or three butcher-knives and other little articles being missing from camp, tjie trappers at once accused the Indians of stealing, and demanded their prompt restoration. The latter they were either unable orutuviiling to do, and thereupon a volley of rifleiy was discharged among the promiscuous throng, with fatal effect. Several were killed and others wounded, and the whole troop of timorous savages immediately took to their heels, nor dared to return again. In narrating the events of their long excursion, an account v/as given of visiting the Munchies, a tribe of white Indians. What added m.uch to tiie interest I felt in this part of their story, was the recollection of an article wliich Vv'ent the newspaper rounds several years since, stating the existence of sucli a tribe. I had disbelieved it at the time ; but thi^,and subsequent corroborative evidence, has efTectually remov(;d from my nund all doubts upon tlie subject. Our trappers iiad remained with the Munchies for four weeks, and spoke of theni in high terms. In reference to tlieii color they were represented p.s being of a much feiirer complexion than Europeans generally, a thing easily explained i"" uiltJers ; or, ii' the reported exiblenre of the city of the mountains as stated in the text be true, might not tlie ancestors of the peojde n(>\v in- habituig it have had some liand in their oricinal construction T Btit, if the latter be the case, and these relics are not the proe from liis lonely prison. It was formerly a favorite resort for the Snake Indians, on accoimt of its exhaust- less stores of game and wild fruits, as well as its security from the approach of ene> mies. I^OTK.- "Taking latitude 42'^ north as the northern boundai7 between Oregon and California, these iritert stiiig regions of country are embraced within tlie limits of the lat- ter; but taking the hearl-waters of the Arkansas as the true point, and thence, by a Une running due west to the Pacific, nearly the whole of it will be found within the United Stales. Thd treaty with Spain in 1819, defining this bomidary, which was subsequently confirmed by Mexico,, after noting Red river as the northern boundary of its eastern province.^, to longitude 100° west from Greenwich, and thenc* north to the Arkansaa, uses the following words : , " Thence, follow uig the course of the south bank of the Arkansas to its soub.cs« in latitude 42'^ north, thence by that parallel of latitude to the South Sea." If the source of the Arkansas, by its south bank, is in lat. 42° north, then the mat- ter of boundary admits of no question ; but if it is not in that parallel of latitude, ibould the latter be regarded as the true boundary, when it is evident, from the words ftf the treaty that the soiu-ce of the Arkansas 6y its south bank, was the intended 256 nciNmr or bear river. that guard it from the world without. The only feasible entrance if upon the east side through a remarkable canon sixty yards wide, formed bv craggy rocks six or eight hundred feet in altitude, succeeded by a still narrower and more precipitous one, towering to a height of twelve or fifteen hundred feet. This valley is intersected by Green river, which, emerging from the lofty ridges above, and tracing its way through the narrow and frightful canons below, here presents a broad, smooth stream, fifty or sixty yards wide, with iloping banks, and passably well timbered. Here all the various wild fruits indigenous to the country are found in ffieat abundance, with countless multitudes of deer, elk, and sheep. The soil is of a dark loam, very fertile and admirably adapted to cultiva- tion. Vegetation attains a rank growth and continues green the entire year. Spring wedded to summer seems to have chosen this sequestered spot for her fixed habitation, where, when dying autumn woos the sere frost and snow, of winter she may withdraw to her flov/er-garnished retreat and smile and bloom forever. The surrounding mountains are from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet high, and present several peaks where snow claims an unyielding do- minion year after year, in awful contrast with the beauty and loveliness that lies below. Few localities in the mountains are equal to this, in point of beautiful and romantic scenery. Every thing embraced in its confines iend.3 to inspire die beholder with commingled feelmgs of awe and admiration. Its long, narrow gate-way, walled in by huge impending rocks, for hun- dreds of feet in altitude, — the lofty peaks that surround it, clothed in eternal snow, — the bold stream traversing it, whose heaving b(3som pours sweet music into the ears of listening solitude, — the verdant lawn, spreading far and wide, garnished with blushing wild-flowers and arrayed in the habili- ments of perennial spring, — ail, all combine to invest it with an enchant- ment as soul-expanding in its subhmity as it is fascinating in its loveliness. The country contiguous to Bear river, back from the valleys, is generally rugged and sterile. Sometimes the surface for a considerable extent is entirely destitute of vegetation, and presents a dreary waste of rocks, or clay hardened to a stone-like consistency by the sun's rays. Nov/ and then a few dwarfish pines and cedars meet the eye amid the surrounding desola- tion, and occasional clusters of coarse grass intervene at favoring depres- sions among the rocks. FARTHEST northern extremity of Mexico, where the Une between the two countrie* shall commence, and thence run due west to the Pacific ? But, instead of being in lat. 42'^ north, the source of the Arkansas is in lat. 39* iiorlli, as indi.-putably ascertained from recent explorations, and thus an interval of three degrees occurs between the two points named in the above treaty ! If the United States are obligated by this treaty to receive the 42d degree as their ■outhern boundary, Mexico is equally obligated to receive the parallel from the souroo of the Arkansas due west to the Pacific, as her true northern limitB ; thus, a tenitocy ti eleven hundred and twenty- five miles frota east to west, and neaxly one huodni ■ad forty from north to south, u left unowned by eitiier party 1 THE BUFFALO-BERRY. 267 The landscape, as a whole, possesses a savage wDdness peculiar to itself, and bears strong indications of volcanic action. The mountains are not so high as those of other parts, but are far more forbidding in their aspect. The prevailing rock is lava, scoriated basalt, trap, bituminous limestone, and calcareous tufa. The valley of Bear river affords a number of springs strongly impreg- nated with various mineral properties, which cannot fail to excite the curi- osity and interest of the traveller. They are found upon the left bank of the stream, a short distance below a small affluent from the north. Two of them are situated in a small grove of cedars, within a short dis tance of each other. In passing their vicinity the attention of the traveller is at once arrested by the hissing noise they emit ; and on approaching to ascertain the cause, he finds two circular-shaped openings in the surface, several feet in diame- ter, and filled with transparent fluid in a state of incessant eflfervescence, caused by the action of subterranean gases. The water of the one he finds on tasting to be excellent natural soda, and that of the other, slightly acid and beer-like ; — the draught will prove deli- cious and somewhat stimulating, but, if repeated too freely, it is said to pro- duce a kind of giddiness like intoxication. These singular natural curios- ities are known among the trappers as the Beer and Soda springs, names not altogether inappropriate. A few hundred yards below these, is another remarkable curiosity, called the Steamboat spring. This discharges a column of mineral water from a rock-formed orifice, accompanied with subterraneous sounds like those pro- duced by a high-pressure steamboat. Besides the above-described, there are a number of others in this vicinity of equally mineral character, as well as several hot springs, varying in tem- perature from blood to that of extreme boiling heat. Bear river valley contains many wide spreads of most excellent land, susceptible of a high state of cultivation. In fertility it is unsurpassed, and varies in width from one and a half to three miles. The stream is not heavily timbered, but the scattering groves of pine and cedar among the adjoining mountains partially atone for any apparent defi- ciency. Towards its head, the hills upon either side are less rugged and barren, and present more frequent intervals of verdancy. I noticed a large number of fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, including cherry, service, goose, and buffalo-berries, (two kinds,) with currants. The bushes of the buflTalo-berry were not as yet entirely divested of thei delicious burthen, and afforded a new variety of that fi-uit hitherto not havip come under my observation. This berry is about the size of and similar in shape to the common currant. There arc three kinds, — the white, yellow, and red, {shevherdia argentia.) The red i» of a slightly tartish taste, but not impleasant ; the yellow is somewhat less acid, but otherwise similar to the red ; the white, however, is most excellent tasted, and possesses a delicious sweetness which cause* it to be highly relished. This fruit has several small seeds in it, like those of the whortleberry, and grows upon a bush in shape and size quite like the common shrub-oaL 22* »« FORT HALL, ETC. It produces in such immense quantities, that the parent bush is not xmfn quently flattened with its superincumbent weight. The grizzly bear delights to revel among the thickets of this his favoritt berry, and is almost certain to make from it his last autumn meal ere he re- tires to winter quarters and commences the long fast that follows. The valley of Bear river presents to emigrants many advantages. Pos sessed not only of a rich soil, well adapted to cultivation, and vast mineral resources, with natural curiosities that must ever make it a central point of attraction, but situated in the immediate vicinity of the prospective popula- tion of the Great Salt Lake and upon the the direct line of over-land inter- course between the United States, California, and Oregon, it must command for its future inhabitants a sure source of prosperity and wealth. There is little doubt of its eventually becoming the most important sec- tion of Southeastern Oregon. In descanting upon the natural curiosities of this valley, the trappers ac- companying me spoke of a spring further to the nortliward, which constantly emits a small stream of mineral tar, from the mountain-side, in no respect inferior to tlie manufactured article. However, I am not certain in regard to the locality of this interesting phenomenon. CHAPTER XXV. Fort Hall ; its liistorj', and locality. — Infontiation relative to Oregon. — Boundarie* and extent of the territory. — Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them severally, — Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. — Harbors and islands. — Oregon as a whole ; iti' mountains and geographical divisions. — Eastern Divison ; . its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. — North of the Columbia ; its general character. — Middle Division; its valleys, yjrairlei', highlands, and forests. — Western Division; a beautiful country ; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility ; productive plains ; abundance of timber, its astonishmg tize and variety.— A brief summary of facts. Our journey from the Uintah to Fort Hall occupied twelve days, and took ns a distance of about two hundred miles. Most of this time the weather continued mild and pleasant; the only interval of inclemency was a single bleak andP^ftoudy day, succeeded by a slight fall of snow during the night, which the bright sunshine of the ensuing morning dissipated in a few mo- ments. Along the entire route wo found an abundance of green grass at sheltered places in the valleys, and also large quantities of game, especially black- tailed deer, bear, and elk. Bear are more numerous in this section tlian in any other I am acquainted with. Fort Hall is located upon the left bank of Snake river, or Lewis' Fork of the Columbia, in a rich bottom near the delta formed by the confluence of the Portneuf with that stream, in lat. 43'' 10' 30^' north, long. 112^20 64 west. WCTURE OF OREGON AS IT 18. 259 In general structure it corresponds with most of the other trading estab- lishments in the country. It was built by Capt. Wythe of Boston, in 1832, for the purpose of furnishing trappers with their needful supplies in ex- change for beaver and other peitries, and also to command the trade with the Snakes. Subsequently it was transferred to the Hudson Bay Company in whose possession it has since remained. Mr. Grant, a gentleman distinguished for his kindness and urbanity, is at present in charge, and has some sixty Canadians and half-breeds in his em- ploy. This post is in the immediate vicinity of the old war-ground between the Blackfoot, Snake, and Crow Indians, and was formerly considered a very dangerous locality on that account. Its early occupants were subject to frequent losses from the hostile incursions of the former of these tribes, and on two or three occasions came very near being burnt out * by their un- sparing enemies. The country in the neighborhood of Fort Hall affords several extensive valleys upon the Snake river and its tributaries, which are rich, well tim- timbered, and admirably adapted to the growth of grain and vegetables. The adjoining prairies also, to some extent, possess a tolerable soil, and abound in a choice variety of grasses. Back from the valleys and plains, the landscape is extremely rugged and mountainous, poorly timbered, and bears the character of general sterility. My stay at the Fort brought me in contact with gentlemen from various parts of Oregon, who kindly imparted to me all the information in their possession relative to the nature and true condition of tiiis interesting and highly important section of our national domain. With the data thus ob- tained, assisted by subsequent personal observation and intelligence derived from other sources, I am enabled to arrange the following brief outlines of its geography, geology, climate, and soil, including a description of its pro- ductions, inhabitants, natural advantages, inducements to emigrants, &c., which the reader may rely upon as strictly correct in every essential par- ticular. With the northern extremity of Bear river valley, the traveller enters the Boutheastern hmits of Oregon Territory. By referring to the map it will be seen that this country is bounded upon the north f by the British and Russian possessions, east by the Rocky Mountains, south by Upper California, and west by the Pacific. It is not my present purpose to argue, or endeavor to sustain, the claims of our Government to the wliole area em- braced in the above ; but conceiving the matter now settled, I shall proceed to the task in in hand without further preliminary. Oregon, hke California, is possessed of many important rivers and hap- • A. portion of the Fort was formerly constructed of wood; — it is now built of "adobies" hke other trading estabUshments of the country. t The treaty now in process of negotiation with Great Britain, relinquishes to that fovemment all above the 49th deg., and consequently admits its claims to the entirt BorUiem boundary, to wit : from 48^ to the Russian possessions. 260 ALL ABOUT THE COLUMBIA RIVER. Dors, that, considering tlieir intimate relation to the general interest of com. rnerce, seem to demand our first attention. The Columbia and its branches water almost tne entire territory, and open a highway from the ocean to the lofty mountain ranges which form its eastern boundary. This river heads in lat. 52^ north, long. 119^ west from Greenwich, and, after pursuing a serpentine course for fifteen hundred oi two thousand miles, finds its discharge in the Pacific, at lat 46° north. One hundred and twenty miles of this distance are navigable for ships of the largest class, but the remainder of its course is interrupted by occa- sional rapids and falls, that render frequent portages necessary. The upper and lower " dalls" and " cascades," present the most serious impediments to navigation. The former of these, situated above Clarke's Fork, are caused by the passage of the Columbia through imiaense ledges, that leave huge vertical walls of basaltic rock upon either side, and corn- press its waters to a narrow, chasm-like channel. There, dashing and foaming in wild futy, the torrent rushes past its lateral dikes with frightful velocity. The distance between these two "dalls" is some thirty miles. The " cascades " lie at the base of a mountain range of the same name, one hundred and fifty miles from the Ocean. Near this place the whole stream is plunged over a precipice of fifty feet descent, forming a sublime and magnificent spectacle. Between the dails and cascades, a reach of high-lands, formed almost en- tirely of naked basalt, presents another barrier, through which the river forces itself by a tunnel-like pass for ten or fifteen miles, leaving vast mural piles upon the right and left, that attain an altitude of three hundred and fifty or four hundred feet. A few miles above the junction of the southern and middle forks of the Columbia, two considerable lakes have been formed by the compressure of its waters among the adjoining mountains. The first of these is about twenty miles long and six broad, shut in by high, towering hills, covered with stately pine forests. Emerging from this, the river urges its way through lofty embankments of -volcanic rock for some five miles or more, when a second lake is formed in a similar manner, which is about twenty-five miles in length and six in width. Note. — Capt. Fremont, in speaking of th>.i Columbia, makes use of the following y at observations : " The Columbia is the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the coimtry, breaking through all the ranges, and entering into the ::ea. Drawing its waters from E section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocliv Mountains, which are collected into one stream by three mahi forks (Lewis', Clarke's, and the North Fork) near the centre oi the, Oregon valley, this great river thence proceeds by a single channel intt the sea, while itt> three forks lead each to a pass in the m:)untauis-, v^rhich opens this way into the ulterior of the conlinent. " This fact, in reference to the rivers of thi? region, gives an immense value to th« Columbia, hs mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea ; its three forka lead to passes in the mountains; it is, tiierefbre, the only line of communication be- tween the Pacific and the mterior of North America ; and all oneratioas of war or comnerce, of national or social intercourse, imiat be conducted upui it.'* OTHER iiiVERS OF THE TERRITORY. 261 There are also several other lakes, of greatei or less extent, at diflerent points along its course. Perhaps no river in the world, of the same length, affords such varied and picturesque scenery as does the Columbia. Its lakes, tunnels, cascades, falls, mountains, rocky embankments, prairies, plains, bottoms, meadow^s, and islands, disclose an agreeable medley of wild romance, solemn grandeur, and pleasing beauty, far surpassing that of any other country. During its course it receives numerous tributaries, the most important of which are the Clarke, Flat-bow, Spokan, Okanagan, Snake, Yakama, Piscous, Entyatecoom, Umatilla, Quisnel, John Day, D'Chute, Cathlatates, Walla^ walla, Wallammette, and Cawlitz. The Clarke, Snake, and Wallammette rivers, seem to call for more than a bare allusion. The former of these rises in the Rocky Mountains, near lat. 46*^ north, and following its windings, is about five hundred and fifty miles in length. A lake, some thirty miles long and eight broad, is also formed in its course, about one hundred miles above its mouth. During its windings it receives a large number of afHuents, which unite to swell the volume of its waters to the full size of its parent stream. The Snake, or Lewis' Fork, is equally important. It rises in lat. 42** north, and, pursuing a northwesterly direction for five hundred miles, is discharged into the Columbia, at lat. 46° north. This river also receives several tributaries, the largest of which are the Kooskooskie and Salmon. The Wallamette heads in the Cascade Mountains, in Upper California, near lat. 41° north, and bears a northerly course for nearly three hundred and fifty miles. One hundred and twenty-five miles of this distance are navigable for boats ol a light draught. Several tributaries, both from the east and west, unite to increase its magnitude and enhance its importance. . The Umpqua, which is the next river worthy of notice below the Colum- bia, has its source in the Cascade Mountains, near lat. 43° north, and run- ning westerly for almost three hundred miles, is finally discharged into the Pacific. Some forty or fifty miles of this distance are said to be navigable. South of the Umpqua a stream of nearly equal size empties into the Pa- cific, called Rogue's river. This also rises in the Cascade Mountains, at lat. 42° north, and is said to be navigable for boats of a light draught, some ^ seventy miles or more. The Chilkeelis is the first river north of the Columbia, and rises in the mountains, near lat. 48** north. Pursuing a westerly course, it discharges itself into the Pacific at Gray's Harbor, after flowing a distance of about two hundred and fifty miles. Fraser's river is the extreme northern one of Oregon. It heads in the Rocky Mountains, near lat 54° north, and empties into the Gulf of Georgia, at lat 49° north. In its course it receives several large tributaries, and pursues its way for a distance of about four hundred miles, eighty of which are navigable. Besides those above named, there are several other streams, of 'ess mag- nitude, emptying into the Pacific at various points along its coast, all of 962 HARBORS ETC. i«rhich, as the country becomes settled, will contribute to the facilities of eomraerce and manufactures. The rivers of Oregon, in the abundance and quality of their fish, are unparalleled. At certain seasons of the year, their waters are completely alive vi^ith the countless myriads that swarm them to their very sources. Even the small streams are not exempt from this thronging population, So great is their number they are frequently taken by the hand ; and, with the aid of a net, several barrels may be caught at a single haul. It re- quires but little eflbft to obtain them, and large quantities are annually shipped to the Sandwich Islands and various other -points. Fish are undoubtedly der^tined to furnish an important item in the future commerce of Oregon. At the present time they supply the principal food of its inhabitants, both Indians and whites. Among the different varieties abounding in these streams, salmon and salmon trout claim the precedence, both in numbers and qualities. These delicious fish attain a size seldom surpassed, and are found in every accessible river and creek. The bays, harbors, and mouths of rivers are also thronged with cod, herring, sturgeon, and occasionally whales, while vast quantities of oysters, clams, lobsters, &c., may be obtained along the coast. Next to fish, in connection with the rivers, the extraordinary number of aquatic birds arrests the attention. These consist of geese, brants, ducks (of three or four varieties,) swans, pelicans, and gulls. At certain seasons, they throng the rivers, creeks, lakes, and ponds, at different parts, in innumerable multitudes, and not only keep the waters in constant turmoil from their nautic exercises and sports, but fill the air with the wild clamor of their incessant quackings. An expert sportsman may kill hundreds of them in a few hours. So abundant are they tlmt tlieir feathers may be obtained of the Indians in any requisite quantity, for a trifling consideration — in all respects equal, for bedding, to tliose procured from domesticated geese and ducks. In regard to harbors, the natural advantages of Oregon are not equal to those of California ; though, as the country becomes settled, the ingenuity of man will speedily atone for these apparent deficiencies ; and if she has not the matchless basin of the Bay of San Francisco, she has other locali- ties upon her sea-board that, with a small expenditure of money and eftbrt, may be made secure and adapted to all her commercial requirements. It is much to be regretted, however, that the Columbia afibrds not an "easy and secure entrance for ships trom the Ocean, as this will undoubted- .y become the most important point of the whole coast. At present, tlie mouth of this river, between Points Adams and Hancock, is partially blocked up by large sand-bars, deposited by the current, and maintained in their places through the repulsive action of the sea-waves. How far these impediments may operate to the future detriment of com- merce, remams to be seen. Unless some remedy should be adopted, the harbor of this great embryo depot of Western trade will continue to oppose a difiicult entrance. The estuaries of the Umpqua and Rogue riven are more difficult of -• GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. 26S eeis than the Columbia. It is even said, that there is not a good harbor on the coast of Oregon below lat. 46'^ north. Above this parallel there are several, not only easy of access but secure of anchorage ; the principal of which are those of the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia. The islands of Vancouvre and Queen Charlotte* also possess a number of excellent harbors. These islands are large, well timbered, and generally fertile. Though, hke the mainland, quite broken and hilly, they embrace many Deautifu plains and lovely valleys, abounding with game, and coursed by ample streams of fresh water. Vancouvre's [sland is two hundred and sixty miles long by fifty in width, and Queen Charlotte's one hundred and forty by twenty-eight. In addition to the above named, there are a number of small- er islands near the Straits of Juan de Fuca — more important on account of their fisheries than the quality of their soil. The whole extent of the sea-coast, connected with the territory, (i. e. from California to the Russian possessions,) is about one thousand miles, besides that of its various islands. Reckoning from the above data, the area included within its limits is not far from nine hundred and two thou- sand, two hundred and fifty square miles. To speak of this vast country in toto, we could give no general character either in regard to its climate, soil, or productions, possessed, as it is, of every diversity, from the piercing frosts of perpetual winter, to the smiling verdancy of unfading spring — from the dwarfish herbage of the arctic re- gions, to the generous fruits of warmer zones — and from the barren steri- lity of a Lybian desert, to the exuberant fecundity of earth's choicest gar- den-spots. However, from the numerous peaks that rear their cloud-capped heads in almost every direction, and the continuous ridges intersecting it from side to side and from end to end, we might with safety pronounce it mountainous. The Rocky Mountains, forming its eastern boundary, branch off wester- ly and northwesterly at various points, and, in connection witli other ridges, beline the whole country. It is my present purpose merely to classify some the more extensive of these ranges, and note their locality, as auxiliary to a more accurate and comprehensive disposal of the leading subject before the reader. The Blue Mountain chain commences not far from 46*^ 30' north Jati tude, and bears a southerly course, till it passes into California and unites with the intersecting ridges of that province. It runs nearly parallel with the Rocky Mountains, at an interval varying from one hundred to one hun- dred and fifty mil;js, forming the Eastern Division of Oregon. The Cascade chain (before noticed, in connection with California) com- mences in the Russian posf=esfiion3, and pursue? fi soiitlierly course through botli countries, till it finally becomes lost in the sea-girt isthmus of the Lower Province. It runs parallel with the coast, at a distance varying from one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles, and defines the Western and Mid- dle Divisions of Oregon. * By the terms of the proposed treaty, the islands of Vancouvre and Queen Char lotte are transferred to Great Britain^ leaving only a few diminutive and comparative' ly valueless ports in the Straits of Juan de Fuca and in i«i«t» south of VaooouTWt within Um liiait* of the U. S. territory' 264 A BEAimr SPOT. The country north of the Columbia is also traversed by numerous branch- es and spurs of the Rocky and Cascade Mountains, many of them present- ing- lofty pealfs, c.vcrcd with never-melting snow and ice. The mountaiji ranges before described, have many summits towering far above the snou-Jiiie. They are generally less sterile than the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and, amid their snow-clad tops and denuded emi- nences, present alternate spreads of high table land and rolling prairie, clothed witli vegetation, and dense forests of pine, cedar, fir, and oak, or open- ing valleys arrayed in ail the enchantment of vernal loveliness. The Eastern, or Southeasterly Division of Oregon, partakes of a greater variety of wild and savage scenery, intermixed with beauty and desolation, than any other section in the whole territory. The valleys of Bear river and those parts contiguous to Fort Hall, have already been described on a preceding page, and all their varied attrac- tions fully descanted upon. Besides these, there are other valleys in the neighborhood of the South Pass, upon Little and Big Sandy, and the New Forks of Green river, that claim a passing notice. The valleys last referred to are of variable width and possess a fertile soil, adapted to either grazing or agricultural purposes, and assume an additional importance from their situation in reference to the grand routes from the United States to Oregon and California. They are capable of sustaining a small population with peculiar advantage, were it not for the troubles that might be anticipated from the hostile incursions of the Blackfeet and Sioux. Below Fort Hall, the valleys of Snake, or Lewis' river, are somewhat limited, but very fertile, though enclosed for the most part by denuded and sterile mountains. In the vicinity of Fort Boise, on the bank of Lewis' Fork, are several rich and extensive plams and valleys, more or less adapted to cultivation. The Kooskooskie and Salmon rivers, also, present some fine uottoms. Another beautiful valley is situated upon Powder river, a considerable creek, about forty miles below Fort Boise. It is large and very fertile, but lacks a sufficiency of timber without a resort to the dense pine forests of the neighboring hills. The next section that attracts the traveller's attention as he proceeds towards the Columbia, is a favored spot known as le Grand Rond, bound- ed on ail sides by mountains, in the vicinity of the Blue range. This locality is nearly circular, and about one hundred and fifty miles in cir- cumference, well watered and possesses a soil of matchless fertility.* * The foUowuig analysis of the soil of this valley, as fiirnished by Col. Fremont will *ttest its superior quality : Silicia 70, 81 Alumnia • 10, 97 Lime and magnesia • - • • • -.1, 38 Oxade of iron 2, 21 Vegetable matter partly decomposed - - ■ • 8, 16 Water and loosa ..-••- 5, 46 Phosphate of lime - ... 1, 01 100,00 JfOaTHERN PART. 265 « .- O . ^.M -ll. O i— .-^- . i^i .-^-. - i.^ -..^^.-^ -^ . ~ - -. .«. . ■ , — — ^ » .. . ... . ^., l^ii^kfer of the best kind may be procured, in any quantity, from the ad- j^M^i'wg mountains, and, to a limited extent, from the valley. Tidppers speak of the Grand Rond with an enthusiasm which is cordi- ally responded lo by all who have hitherto visited it. So far as soil and climate are concernedj a better section of country than this is rarely found. Southeast from the place last described, sixty miles or more, lies a long stretch of desolate country which bears a strikingly volcanic appearance. This region is thickly paved with vast piles of lava and igneous rock, strown about in confused fragments, as if the mountains had been rent asunder and dashed in horrid medley upon the adjoining plains, and earth, itself, had undergone all the iiulescribable contorsions of more than agony, — now opening in frightful chasms, — now vibrating with unheard- of violence, oversetting hilis and rooting them from their foundations by the impetuosity of its iiiotion, or elevating half vertically, the immense layers of subterranean rock forming the valves of distorted fissures, and depressing the opposing ones in fnghiful contrast, — in haste to complete the picture of destrucucn by an imposing array of wild and savage scenery. Numerous boiling springs are also found among these wide-spread heaps of ruined nature whose waters are frequently so hot that meat may be cooked in a very few minutes by submersion in ihem. Several streams trace their way through this region, affording occasional bottoms of fertile soil and luxuriant vegetation, that smile with bewitching enchantment upon the relentless havoc surrounding tliem. Upon Clarke's river and its tributaries, as well as the numerous lakes adjacent to them, there are large quantities of excellent land, well adapted to agricultural and grazing purposes. The hills, too, are generally studded with dense forests of pine and fir, some of them of gigantic growth, while the intervning plateaux and high prairies present frequent intervals of lusty grasses. The same may be said, though in a more restricted sense, of most of the country lying between Clarke's river and the Columbia. The streams of water and lakes are most of them skirted with bottoms and valleys of greater or less extent, tolerably well timbered, while the neighboring hills afford frequent groves of heavy pines, diversified with openings of grass-clad prairies or of denuded barremiess. V Many interesting localities lie along the Columbia, above the confluence of Clarke's river, as well as upon the several tributaries finding their way into it. A tract of country circumjacent to the Lower Lake possesses a rich soil, with other advantages, which in due time will command the atten- tion of emigrants. The section lying still north of this is but Uttle better than a barren waste of frost and snow, with now and then choice spots of rank vegeta- tion and rich floral beauty, shut up in their stern recesses, in wonderful contrast with the savage sublimity and wild disorder of the masses of naked rock that surround them. Frasier's river has an extensive valley of excellent and well timbered land, skirting it in variable width, from mouth to source. The same may be said of many of its tributaries. The Chilkeelis, also, poeseBses man} choice spots. 28 266 THE WESTERN DIVISION. But, as a general thing, that portion of country north of the Columbia is the most worthless part of Oregon. A vast share of it is mere naked rock or deserts of ice and snow, with now and then dense forests of pine, cedar, and fir. The^e are, compara- tively, few arable prairies ; and not more than one half of the wliole extent can be turned to any useful purpose. Perhaps one sixth of it is suscepti- ble of cultivation. In fact, the only localities worthy of mention are the valleys scattered among the Claset and Cascade Mountains, and along the different rivers and creeks. The cause of this general sterility is more to be attributed to the severity of the climate, consequent upon a high northern latitude, combined with the broken and mountainous character of the country, tlian to any great natural deficiency of soil. Of course it can never become thickly populated. Its timber, fisheries, and facilities for manufactures, stock-raising, and the growth of wool, embrace its greatest inducements to emigrants ; though, in a commercial point of view, its extensive fur trade and commodious har- bors, with other kindred advantages, should not be overlooked. We now come to the Middle Division, or that section south of the Co- lumbia, between the Blue and Cascade Mountains. In this division of Oregon the face of the country is very much diversi- fied. As a whole, it presents a continued series of conical hills, huge mas- ses of rock, and undulating prairies, intermixed with lofty, cloud-capped peaks, shooting transversely from the ridges that form its eastern and west- ern boundaries. These mountains are usually clothed with rank vegeta- tion, and frequently present stately forests of valuable timber, particularly the Blue range. It also contains many extensive valleys of great fertility, situated among its mountains and upon the John Day, Quisnell, UmatiUa, D'Chute, and VVallawalla rivers, and their numerous affluents. The southern extremity lilvewise atibrds many fertile and extensive val- leys, but it is rather sparsely timbered. In the immediate vicinity of the Columbia, the lai.d is sandy and barren, though back from the river, the hills are tolerably rich and coated with heavy pine forests. Nearly the whole of this section may be considered available for agricul- jare and stock-raising. The Western Division next commands our attention. Below tlie Cas- cades, the country contiguous to the Columbia presents a vast extent of thickly timbered and extremely fertile bottom land, one hundred and twenty miles wide, interspersed with frequent openings of lusty vegetation. The forests of this section afford some of the largest and most beautiful pine and fir trees in the world. Its valleys, plains, and hills are Ukewise possessed of a most excellent soil, adapted to every practicable use. Above this, and bordering upon the Straits of Juan de Fuca are also large tracts of fine land, well watered, tiraljered, and lertile. Southward, towards the confines of California, the Umpqua and Rogue- rivers claim several very exteusive and iertile valleys and bottom lands. Upon the former of these are said to bi^ two, one jf vvhich i£ forty miles in lengtli by ten in width, and die other seventy by fifteen ; — upon the latter, is 000 eighty miles long, and varying from fifteen to fifty in width. MAGNIFICENT FOREST TREES. 267 Besides the above mentioned, there are numerous other valleys, all of which are well timbered and of unparalleled fertility. - No country in tlie world affords a better soil, or a more romantic scenery. The mountains boundia<^ them rise in stately grandeur, oftentimes far above the clouds, to converse with the relentless snows of successive ages, — now presenting tlieir nude sitieis, paved with dark masses of frowning rocks, or proud forests of evergreen, verdant lawns, flowery dales, and sterile wastes, to overlook the perennial beauty and matchless fecundity at their feet, — while the lesser eminences with their deep ravines, o'erhanging clifls, and shadowy recesses, tell the place where the storm-winds recruit their forces and the zephyrs creep in to die. There are ako large valleys, of equally fertile soil, upon the head wateri of the Tlameth river, near the southern boundary, well worth the attention of emigrants. The m-ost interesting portion of the Western Division, however, is that bordering upon the Wallammette and its affluents. The valley of this river is one hundred and iiity miles long by thirty-five broad. The soil is a deep alluvion, of extraordinary fertility. It is not only well watered, but well timbered, and produces all the vege- tables, fruits, and grasses indigenous to the country, with astonishing pro- fuseness. No region was ever better adapted to agricultural or grazing purposes. The Fualitine Plains, adjoining this beautiful expanse of fertility upon the left, towards the Columbia, embrace an area of forty-five miles in length by fifteen in breadth, well watered and amply timbered, with a soil in all respects equal. The Klackanms, Putin, Fualitine, Yamhill, and other rivers, are all of them skirted by beautiful and fertile valleys of greater or less extent, while the adjacent hills and prairies afford not only frequent forests of excellent timber, but generally a very good soil. The landscape of this vicinity, though not, strictly speaking, hilly, is highly indulating, but quite productive in grass and herbage. The Cawlitz river, which empties into the Columbia a short distance below tlie WaDammette, has several ricii bottoms, and waters a large extent of country, admirably adapted to stock-raising and agriculture. At the mouth of the Wallammette river is an island some fifteen miles in length by nearly the same distance in breadth, called Wappato; it is of a deep alluvial soil, formed from sedimentary deposites and decayed vegeta- ble substances, and is very rich and densely timbered. The country at the m.outh of the Columbia and for some ten or fifteen miles interior, is sandy and sterile, — a fact much to be regretted, as from its peculiar locality this point must necessarily become the site of a vastly important commercial emporium, vieing in population, splendor, and opu- lence, the time-grown cities of more eastern climes. The stately forests of pine and fir, in the Western Division of Oregon, have for a long time challenged the admiration of the world, and it is strongly doubted whether the chosen veterans of foreign woods can produce a rival to some few specimens of tlie proud giants of its soil. These not unfrequently tower to a height of two hundred feet, aixf ev«B ^^ A GLAJ^CE AT THE WHOLB. more, — cleaving from one hundred and fifty to one liundred and seTenty-fivt feet clear of limb, with scarcely a curve in the entire length. One of them, standing near Fort George on the Columbia river, is said to measure forty-seven feet in circumference, three hundred and fifty feet in altitude, and two liundred and sixty-five teet clear of limb; anotlier, upon tiie Umpqua river, is reported even larger , and yet another, in the same vicinity, very nearly equals it in size. Timber of this kind affords the choicest article for lumber, v^hich bears a very high price at the Sandwich Islands and in various parts of Mexico, and will no doubt become a staple commodity in tlie commerce of Oregon ; while the immense forests of pine, fir, and oak, rearing their stately heads in thick array, must prove a sure source of wealth to its future inhabi- tants. The principal kinds of wood indigenous to tht country are white-oak, live-oak, maple, ash, pine, fir, cedar, hemlock, spruce, cottonwoM, aspen, and cherry. Live-oak is found chiefly in the southern part, and, in quality, stands foremost among the denizens of the forest for ship-building.^ Several other ■pecies of oak are more or less abundant in various parts. In review of the subjects occupying the preceding pages, we may pre- sent the following sununary : Nearly one-fifth of the entire territory is timbered ; three-eighths of it may be successfully cultivatod, (embracing the richest lands in the Federal Domain.) and two-thirds of it may aflbrd pasturage for cattle, horses, and sheep. It is generally better watered and much better timbered than California ; and, though its harbors are inferior in regard to safety and ease of access. Oregon possesses other advantages, aside from soil and climate, com- pensating, in some measure, for these obvious deficiencies, and which com' »ne to render it a most eligible point of emigration. 26t CHAPTER XXVi. tRUBAto of Oregon ; its Tariableness ; ita raina ; a southfim elimate in ft latitade. — Productiven^s ; grain, fruita, and flowers, wild and cultivated.-— Geo< logical characteristics. — Soils and prevailing rock. — Minerals, &c. — Variety of game.— Wolves. — Horses, and other domestic animals. — Population, white and na • tives ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. — Missionary stations, and their improvements. — Present trade of Oregon. — Posts of the Hudson Bay Compaiy.— Settlements. — Oregon City, its situation and advantages ; about linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine Plains, and Umpqua river ; Vancouvie, and ita ro- perior advantages. — Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settienu The next which seems to demand our notice, in due order, is the climatt of this interesting country. I We need only bear in mind the geographical position and diversified character of Oregon, to satisfy ourselves of the true merits of the subject now before us. A mountainous country like this must necessarily em- brace every variety of climate, from that of the ice-bound coasts and ever- scathing frosts of the polar regions, to the burning heat of the equator,— from the mild atmosphere of Italian skies, to the genial temperature which paints the wild-flowers in their primeval beauty, while month succeeding month doles out the year, nor feels nor knows the chill-breath of winter* A short jaunt at any time • translates the traveller, at his own optioD, to regions of winter, spring, summer, or fall, and spreads before him all die varied beauties and deformities of either. As a general thing, however, the winters of Oregon are much more tem^ perate man those of countries in the same latitude bordering upon th« Atlantic — a fact which may be attributed to the usual prevalence of wes- terly winds at that season. These winds, on passing the mountains and traversing the vast extent of snowy prairie and open land in their course, become vested with a chill- ing severity unknown to its incipiency, when, from the warm bosom of the broad Pacific, they first waft themselves o'er the blooming valleys, smilinff plains, grass-clad hills, and mountains garbed in stately forests, comminglea with stern desolation, to lavish upon all these varied scenes the soft Wan- dishments of the Indies, and engender the interesting phenomenon of a sonth* em climate in a high northerr? latitude. The c luntry contiguous to Frasier's river, and even below it for some dit 'ance, is usually visited with long and severe winters, and enjoys comparatively but a short interval of genial weather during the spring and summer months. The valleys, however, not unfrequently afford exceptions to this remark, when favorably located in regard to the wind and sun. In this section it seldom rains, a circumstance causing an unproductive and arid soil 83^ S70 CLIMATS OF ORIQOH. The Eastern Division is, perhaps, more variable in regaid to tempera- ture than any other portion of Oregon. Its valleys are usually possessed of a mild and delightful climate, so much so that stock will subsist the entire winter without being fed or housed. The plains and high prairies present a longer interval of inclement weather, and the snow continues on the ground for a much greater length of time, than in the low-lands. Some particular localities are subject to very sudden changes, and not anfrequently experience the warm breath of summer with the chill blasts of fresh-born winter during the short lapse of a single day and night. In reference to the high mountains, it is sufficient to remark, that with them winter is a season too congenial not to be felt in all its rigors, to the entire extent of its duration. The diversity of temperature in these parts depends mostly upon the altitude. The lower benches experiencing a rnild atmosphere even in the severest weather, permit the snow to re- main only for a short interval succeeding its fall, and woo the willing spring ; while the higher ones treasure up each descending flake to nour- ish the scathing blasts that leap from the mountain-tops, fresh-cradled in the lap of winter. Notwithstanding these apparent disadvantages, the Eastern Division may be regarded as universally healthy. The purity of the atmosphere, and its absence from noxious exhalations and disease-engendering efflu- via, undoubtedly contribute the prime cause in producing a result so favorable. Rains are not usual to this part in the summer months, nor even in the winter and spring are they common to any great extent. The snows of winter, together with the rains of that season and autumn, and the occasional dews of summer, in most cases, aflbrd a sufficient moisture to the low-lands for agricultural purposes. That section situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, known as the Middle Division, is said to possess, comparatively, a much milder and less variable climate. The winters are usually open and of short duration, snow lying upon the ground, in the valleys, rarely exceeding four days in succession, and vegetation, in some instances, remains green the entire season. The prai- ries, too, are generally covered only for a short time. The heat of summer lacks that oppressiveness so common to most countries. In regard to the health of this section, we may correctly apply the observations made relative to the Eastern Division. A country situ- ated hke the one now forming the subject of our remarks, cannot be oth- erwise than healthy, as a general thing. The snow of winter and the rains of spring and autumn, coupled with the light dews of summer, furnish all the moisture usual to he soil, which the moderate heat of the latter season renders sufficiei i for the growth of vegetation and the production of grain and other crops. The Western Division possesses not only a soil but a climate more fa- forable to vegetation than any other portion of Oregon. In the southern part it seldom snows, and the weather is so mild, that the grass continues green and flourishing the entire year. Water noTer mems, unless it ie in eome elevated pool or lake. PRODUCTIONS OF DIFFERElfT SECTIOlfS. 271 The absence of sufficient rains and dews, however, during the summer nonths at some points, renders an occasional resort to irrigation necessary for the production of corn, potatoes, and articles of a like nature. Two crops of some kinds of produce may be raised with success in a single year. In the vicinity of the Wallammette, the winters are only a trifle colder. Running water seldom freezes. Snow never falls to exceed the depth of a few inches, and disappears in a very short time succeeding. Vegetation in the valleys, and even upon the plains, to some extent, remains green year in and year out. Of course no better climate could be selccteil for stock-raising. These remarks may be applied with equal propriety to the other por- tions of the Western Division south of the Columbia and in its immediate vicinity. The country further north, for a considerable distance, posses- ses a climate almost as favorable. The snows of winter, however, are usually more frequent and less transitory in their continuance. The cold season is confined almost exclusively to the three winter months. The heat of summer is moderate and agreeable, generally rangmg at 62** Fahrenheit, above zero, in its mean temperature. The wet season of the Western Division usually occurs from October to March of each year, inclusive ; at other times rain seldom falls. During this season it descends in gentle showers, or in the shape of mist, at inter- vals, for about one half of the time. The moisture received into the earth meanwhile, together with the nightly dews and other favorable agencies during the summer months, renders the soil adapted to cultivation. Back from the valleys and bottoms, the atmosphere is quite wholesome and salubrious. Fevers are seldom known, and pulmonary complaints are equally rare. In the vicinity of the Columbia, intermittent fevers are not uncommon, though by no means as bad as in some parts of our frontier States. Next m the order before us come the various productions which may be, and are, successfully cultivated in the diflerent sections of this part of our national domain. The soil and climate of the Eastern Division have been sufficiently test* ed to know their capacity for producing nearly, if not quite, all the various grains, vegetables, and fruits usually grown in our Northern and Middle States. A great variety of wild fruits and vegetables grow spontaneously, in different parts, and in great abundance. The soil and climate, as a whole, seem better adapted to the culture of fruits and grains, than vegetables ; and perhaps we might add, for the raifih ing of cattle, horses, and sheep, than agriculture ; though the latter obser- vation is not to be so construed as to affirm that farming may not be suc- cessfully and profitably prosecuted in many parts. The Northern Division, or that portion of Oregon lying on the head- waters of the Columbia, in the vicinity and south of Frasier's river, and upon the Chilkeelis, being much colder and more sterile, must necessarily be regarded in a less favorable light than the country referred to in the preceding paragraph. But, little is known as to its products or the capiu fiities of its sou and climate; yet, it is said that some particular kinds of 8?2 PRETAIUlfG ROCK. fimit are indigenous to this region, and it is generally jnpposed that wheat, baney, oats, buckwheat, flax, and other articles of hke nature, might te raised within it. Of course, these remarks apply only to the valleys. The Middle Division affords a finer soil and a more favorable climate than the Eastern ; but, in regard to productions, it is much the same. All the northern fruits, grains, and vegetables, may be produced in great abun- dance, with the exception of com — the land being generally too dry and too much subject to unseasonable frosts ; corn, however^ has been success- fully cultivated on the Wailawalla. There are several varieties of wild fruits found here, among which are ii.cluded cherries, with larb, buflal , goose, and service berries, and cur- rants, plums, and grapes, together with several other species not recollect- ed, as well as vegetables and roots. The Western Division not only maintains its pre-eminence in relation to Boil and climate, but stands equally conspicuous in the variety and abun- dance of its productions. It is thought, and not without reason, that cotton, Bugar-cane, and various other productions of a warm and even tropical climate might here be raised without difficulty. When the ground is in a suitable condition, the avarage crop of wheat IB from twenty to twenty-five bushels to the acre. Vast quantities of it are annually produced by settlers in different parts of the country. A surplus of one hundred thousand bushels is reported to have been grown, in the reffion adjoining the Wallammette, during the summer of 1844. The Hudson Bay Company, at Fort Vancouvre, have several very ex- tensive farms under improvement, upon which they raise nearly every va- riety of grain and vegetables, with flattering success. In the garden of McLaughlin, the chief factor of this company, are found almost every species of -fruits and flowers indigenous to this country and to foreign soils of the same latitude, with several varieties produced only in warm chmates. We barely allude to the above facts, in order to prove the adaptation of Western Oregon to agricultural pursuits. The data relative to its extraor- dinary facilities for rearing countless herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, have already been placed before the reader, and need not here a repetition. The components of the soils of Oregon are equally varied in character, according to their situation. Tlie bottoms are usually of a deep, sandy alluvion, intermixed with vegetable and organic matter. The valleys are of a heavy loam, enriched by the debris and other fertilizing properties borne from the high grounds by tlie annual rains, together with the con- stant accumulation of decayed herbage and grass so lavishly bestrewn at each returning season. The prairies are possessed of either a light sandy superfice, or a mixture of ^vel and stiff clay. The superstratum of the hills and mountains varies from wastes of naked sand, sun-baked clay, and spreads of denuded rock, to a thin vegetable mould, and a light marly loam of greater or less fecundity. The rock of this territory also presents many different specimens ; the prominent classifications, however, are volcanic, viz : basalt, (columnar and Bcoriated,) trap, lava, pumicestone, limestone (fossiUferous, bituminous, tad earthy ,) and mica ilate, with sandstone, puddingstone, gnmolar qaarti| POPULATION OF THE TERRITORY. 273 calcareous tufa, and agglomeratx3d boulders of various kinds, particularly in the Eastern Division. The varieties of some parts present strong char- acteristics of the oolite formation. The hills cojitain many excellent quar- ries for the structure of buildings or other useful purposes. Hitherto but littlo investigation has been had relative to the mineral re* ■nources of Oregon ; though sufficient is known to warrant the statement, •hat copper, lead, iron, coal, salt, soda, sulphur, nitre, and alum, are abundant tn some parts ; and, from the nature of the country, we may safely infer that yet more valuable metals are waiting to reward with their hidden treasures the researches of man. Game, in the Eastern and Middle Divisions, is not generally plentiful ; yet, in places, there are an abundance of deer, elk, antelope, bear, wolve« and foxes ; — buffalo are also found occasionally in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains. In the Northern Division, moose, deer, elk, bear, foxes, and wolves, are the varieties most common. Game is more abundant in the Western than in the other Divisions, and is nearly of the same kind. Ducks, geese, brants, pheasants, partridges, &c., are common throughout the whole territory. Wolves are very numerous in the neighborhood of the settlements, and prove a great source of annoyance to the inhabitants by preying upon their cattle and other stock. These wolves consist of three kinds — the black, gray, and prairie wolf, o. vhich, as in California, the black wolf is the largest and most ferocious. As a grazing country, the available lands of the three divisions of Oregon, south of the Columbia and the one immediately north of that river, are little inferior, if, indeed, not fully equal, to the far-famed meadows and lawns of Cahfornia. Horses are reared in vast numbers by the Indians, among whom it is not uncommon to find a single individual owning three or four hundred head. Select horses may be bought at prices ranging from twelve to twenty dol- lars each. These animals are generally stout and hardy, capable of enduring a vast amount of fatigue, and are but little inferior in point of size to our American nags. Large herds of horses are also raised by the settlers, and at the Hudson .Bay Company's establishments. Latterly, cattle, hogs, and slieep, are beginning to receive the attention of the farming community, and, without doubt, soon will become immensely numerous. It needs only the operation of time to render Oregon as fa- mous for its countless herds, as for the abimdance and variety of its p^o^- dictions. The entire population of the territory at this time, may be estimated at thirty-five thousand, of which about seven thousand are whites and half- breeds, and the balance Indians. The Indians principally consist of the following tribes : the Snakes, ' Blackfeet, Flatheads, Nesperces, Bonarks, Cyuses, Wallawallas, Chinooks, Shatchets, Chalams, Kiilamucs, Squamishes, Clasets, Tonandos, Klacka- ■106, Clatsup, Umpquas, Klackatats,Kallapuyas,Tlamaths, and Chilkeelia. 2T4 MISSIONARY STATIONS. The Blackfeetj though included among the Oregon tribes, properly belonj to that portion of the Rocky Mountains contiguous to the head waters of tlie Missouri. They make occasional irruptions into the country occupiec? by tlie Flatheads, Snakes, and Nesperces, and for this reason are included in the above list. The Tlameths and two or three other inferior tribes in the neighborhood of California and north of the Columbia river may be considered trouble- some and rather ill-disposed ; but not dangerous, unless it be in cases where they have a very decided advantage. The Indians of this country are less warhke than those east of the Rocky Mountains, and far less dangerous, even as enemies. They may be con* Bidered, on the whole, as friendly to the whites, and quite susceptible of civilization. They are tolerably industrious, and ready at all times to work for the settlers at a trifling compensation. Many of them cultivate the ground and raise corn, potatoes, beans, and melons, — but fish, horses, and game, as a general thing, furnish their prin- cipal food. As an evidence of their quiet disposition, they rarely go to war, and are usually found at or near the several places claimed and occupied by them individually. The Nesperces are, perhaps, farther advanced in civiUzation than any other tribe. Many of them (and some of other tribes) are beginning to live after the manner of the whites, and the pb .anthropic efforts of Chris- tian missionaries in their behalf have been attended with great success. There are eight of more missionary stations in Oregon, belonging as fol- lows : to the Presbyterians, the Methodists, and the Roman Catholics. Four of these are situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, viz : one near the Balls one at Waiilatpu on the Wallawalla, one at Tshimakain, and one at Clear Water. The mission at Waiilatpu is under the direction of Dr. Whitman, and has a flouring mill and a very considerable farm connected with it, upon which large quantities of grain and vegetables are annually raised, and also numerous herds of cattle and horses. The station near the Dalls, with the exception of a mill, is said to be but little behind that of Waiilatpu in point of prosperity. The remaining four are in the Western Division. The most important of these are situated as follows : one at the Wallam- mette Falls, about twenty-five miles below the Columbia, and the other m the Wallammette valley, some forty or fifty miles fartlier south. Both of the above belong to the Methodists, and may be considered rich« There are two large farms and a store connected with the station in the Wallammette valley, and also large herds of cattle, horses, and hogs ; — it is eaid to drive quite a profitable trade with the Indians and settlers in tlie line of dry goods and groceries. The station at the Wallammette Falls has also a store, and carries on a ■mall business by way of merchandize. The two other stations are south and west of the last named, but have, as yet, no very extensive improvements in connection with them. The Methodists have a press at one of their stations in Oregon, which if employed in printing religious books for the benefit of the Indians. DIFFERENT SETTLEMEIfTS. 275 In addition to the different stations above alluded to, the Catholics have several agents and teachers in this territory, who labor with great zeal and earnestness to make proselytes to their own peculiar notions. The number and locality of these agents I have not the necessary information to state. They were, not long since, under the superintendance of one Father De Smit, a Jesuit priest, and have exerted considerable influence among the Indian tribes. Nearly the entire trade of Oregon, at the present time, is in the hands of the Hudson Bay Company, from whom dry goods and groceries may be ob- tained by the settlers at less than the common price in the United States ; this, as a necessary consequence, precludes all opposition. The principal exports (raised at the stations or received by way of barter) are flour, fish, butter, cheese, lumber, masts, spars, furs, and skins. The Forts, or trading establishments, are eighteen in all, and have a large number of hands employed about them, in conducting the fur trade and ^aboring upon the farms and in the workshops and mills. Each of these posts presents a miniature town by itself, whose busy pop- ulace pursue most of the varied avocations incident to the more densely inhabited localities of civilized countries. We will not occupy the reader's time in an extended description of them severally, but rest content by simply giving their names. The first post belonging to this company, upon the route to the mouth of the Columbia, is Fort Hall; the next. Fort Wallawalla; then, Fort Vancouvre, and Fort George. The others are situated at different points, and are known as follows : Colville, Okanagan, Alexandria, Barbine, Klamlcops, St. James, Chilcothin, Simpson, McLaughlin, Langley, Nisqually, Cawlitz, and Umpqua; of which eight are located in or above iat. 49* north. The principal settlements, disconnected from the trading establishments and different missionary stations, at present, are upon the Umpqua and Wallammette riverS; on the Fualitine Plains, and near Fort Vancouvre. These settlements are represented as being in a very flourishing condition, and rapidly increasing in population and wealth. At the Wallammette Falls, a town has been regularly laid out called Oregon City, which, in the year 1844, numbered a hundred or more bouses ; among them was a church, with several stores and mills. At this place the temporary legislature, already instituted by the set- tlers for mutual benefit in the absence of all other legitimate jurisdiction, holds its regular sessions. A mayor was elected in the spring of 1846; and recently a printing press and materials have been procured from New York for the purpose of publishing the territorial laws, with such other documents and papers as the interests of the community may require. This embryo city, situated as it is in a place so admirable in regard to agriculture, commerce, and manufactures, possesses many superior advan- tages in point of locality. The falls of the Wallammette are thirty feet perpendicular, and afford abundant water privileges for mills and factories, — two important rivers, the Klackamue and Fualitine, find their discharge near it, while below if groMotsd an imlnt«rrupted navigation to the Oc«an,and above it boati maj 376 KINDNESS OF THE H. B. COMPANY. ascend for a distance of one hundred miles or more. The country con- tigous iB unsurpassed in fertility, and will undoubtedly soon acquire a dense population. Another town, called Linnton, has recently been commenced upon the south bank of the Columbia, near the mouth of the Wallammette river, and bids fair to become of some importance. The settlements in the valley above, and at the Fualitine Plains, are scat- tered like those of the farming sections of our Western States ; — the same observation may also be applied in reference to those upon the Ump- qua river. The settlement at Vancouvre is more compact, and assumes the air of a flourishing village. It is near the falls of the Columbia, at the head of ship navigation, and is made the great co:amerciai dei;ot of the Hudson Bay Company for the articles required in their trade. Connected with the Fort is an extensive flouring mill, and also a saw mill, which i^ said to do a very active and lucrative business. The number of bui.'dings at Vancouvre is not far from sixty. The site is a most admirable one for some future emporium of trade and manufac- tures. Its water privileges are almost without limits, while its other advai- tages are equally inviting. The geographical condition of the country is such that, as it becomes settled, an enormous amount of commercial interest must necessarily con- centrate here ; and, doubtless, a more favorable locality for a city could not be selected upon the Columbia. It is destined to command almost the entire trade of Eastern and Middle Oregon. The ag-ents of the Hudson Bay Company at present are of great advan- tage to emigrants. They extend to tliem every reasonable assistance by selling goods and necessaries on credit at very low prices, and receiving their various products in payment upon most favorable terms. They fur- nish seed-corn, wheat, potatoes, and other articles of like nature, to the set- tlers, to be returned in kind at the end of the year, with a small additional amount by w^ty of interest. This company is equally accommodating in other respects. It afforda employment to numbers at a fair compensation, and supplies them with cattle, hogs, horses, and implements of agriculture for their farms. Iti agents and factors seem much disposed to encourage the influx of emi- grants, and are never backward in evincing a friendly disposition by their acts. 277 CHAPTER XXVIl. Hm manufacturing facilities of Oregon.— Commercial and agricultural advantagef reviewed.— Rail Road to the Pacific— Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipments for emigrants. — Importance of Oregon to the United States. — Incident in the early history of Fort H?ill.— Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. — Mild weather.— Leave for the Platte. — Journey to the Yarnpah, and sketch of the intermediate country.— New Park,— Head of Grand river. — The landscajie. — Different routes to Fort Lancaster. — Old Park. Perhaps no country is possessed of greater manufacturing facilities than Oregon. Its numberless watercourses, with their frequent falls and rapids, upon every side, point out the sites for mills and factories, while the adjoining forests and hills produce the timber for tlieir construction, and the metal for their machinery ; and the plains and valleys, the food for their operatives, and raw materials for their fabrics. The ships of all na- tions await as their carriers, and render accessible the best markets of the world. A large portion of the sterile and otherwise valueless lands of the terri- tory might be turned to good account in the growth of wool, and the valleys and bottoms would easily yield exhaustless supplies of flax and hemp. The southwest displays her cotton fields, and the plains and liiils hold out their rich stores of timber and minerals ; tlje busy operatives and thrice eflTec- tive machinery of the flourishing estJiblishments, as yet scarcely hidden from view by the thin veil of futurity, would achieve the transformation of tliese varied products into broadcloths, hnens, calicoes, and other auxiha- ries of comfort and utility ; while California, with the other provinces of Mexico, the western Republics of South America, the islands of the Paci- fic, the Northwestern Coast, and the numerous Indian tribes of the interior, impatient to gaze upon the evidences of creative skill, even now stand their willing^ purchasers. With such advantages before her, who raight not augur well for the fu- ture pre-eminence of Oregon. But, in other respects, the prospect is still more flattering. Her exten- sive plaine, valleys, and bottoms, need no long lapse of time to transform them into smiling fields ; her prairies and hills will then become thronged with countless herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and the beef, pork, and wool of the stock-grov/er, the butter and cheese of tlie dairyman, with all the surplus of the farmer, will find an inviting market at the populous manufacturing towns and commercial cities tliat will have sprung up close around him, nor need he look elsewhere for a more lucrative disposal. An interchange of commodities witJi China, Japan, SoutJi America, the East Indies, and the Polynesian and Australian islands, will pour the wealth of nations into her lap, and swell the opulence of her citizens. A continuous rail-road, from the Mississippi and tlie great lakea 24 278 EQUIPMENT FOR ERDiGRAlfTS. the Rocky Mountains to the falls of the Columbia, (a project quite practi cable, and even now seriously contemplated,) will open a new channel for commerce, and then our merchantmen and wlialers, instead of performing a dangerous homeward-bound voyage of twelve thousand miles, by doubling the southern extremity of Africa, or that of the American continent, will discharge their cargoes at the ports of Qiegon for a re-shipment to every part of the Union, and thus unite their aid ii-; the magic work of up-build- ing the Great West. It is then tliat the mighty resources of our national confederacy will be^ gin more fully to develop themselves, and exhibit to an admiring world tho giant strides of civilization and improvement, wheu liberty is their birth- right, and freemen are their nursing fathers. It needs no prophetic eye to foresee all ihis, nor the effort of centuries to transform tills rough sketch cf fancy into a more than sober reality. The over-land route, from Independence, Mo., to Fort Hall, affords a good waggon-road ; but that from Fort Hall to Vancouvre is generally con- sidered impassable for other tlian pack-animals. It is said, however, that a new route has recently been discovered, by whici? waggonn may be taken, without much difficulty, the entire distance. Should this report prove true, tlie emigrant may convey everything needed for his comfort during the long journey before him. Emigrants ehouM never go in companies exceeding one hundred and fifty or two hundred persons. The reason for this is obvious,-— they will proceed more harmoniously ; there will be less difficulty in obtaining food for their animals; less delays en rrmte; a better opportunity for the procurement of provisions by hunting, and the number is amply sufficient for mutual defence. From my own experience and observaticn, I would advise the use of pack-rnules or horses altogether, instead of waggons. One pack-horse, suitably laden, would convey an ample supply of provisions and other ne- cessaries for two individuals, if recruited by ocf.asional levies upon the game that, ia many cases, throng their course. A company thus equiped, can travel with far greater expedition and even more comfortably. In case of sickness, a litter might easily be constructed for the convey- ance of the invalid by affixing to a -horse two light poles, some twelve or fifteen feet in length, like the shafts of a vvagon, *he smaller extremities being fastened to the saddle and the larger ones left to drag upon the ground, while two scort pieces placed transversely upvin them, astern the horse, present the fi imework for a bed in which the sufferer may repose or lie ftt his ease, wit!i as much quiet as the tender object of a mother's care in Ke infantile cradis. A c«^mpany acting upon the above suggestions (numbering say two hundred) should employ an efficient pilot, with a commandant and six- teen skilful hunters. Strict regulations for its government must also be adopted and en- forced. Each individual should be furnished with a good riding horse or « mule, a good percassion rifle, (bore thirty or thirty-five balls per lb. "^ *»- IMPORTANCE OF OREGON. 279 munition sufficient for five hundred rounds, and a butcher-knife, with pi©, tola and the requisites for procuring fire. The company should be divided into messes of six each, and one hunt- er and his assistant should be assigned to every two messes. Each mesa should be provided with three pack-mules, exclusively for the transports^ tion of its baggage and provision, and at least one loose animal for extra service. It should be further furnished with two camp-kettles, a tomahawk, a large tin mess-pan, and a tin-cup and plate for each of its number. A light tent might also be taken if deemed necessary ; though such an article is of little use. A robe and a blanket for bedding, four shirts and a single change of clothes are as much baggage as any individual should think of taking for his ov/n use. By these means his movements will be free and unincumbered, while the whole company pursues its way with ease and rapidity. On reaching his destination the emigrant may procure everything in the line of dry goods, ,:y]oceries, and the implements cf husbandry, at less prices than in the Siates ; hence the folly of burthening himself with extra baggage for a long and tiresome journey. The immense importance of Oregon to the United States is doubtless ap- parent to every ona. The facts upon which this inference is based, may be briefly presented as follows : First. By the occupation of this country we shall secure to our own citizens the best trade of the whole world. Second. We shall preclude the dangerous supremacy of foreign powers upon our western frontier, and place our relations with the intermediate Indian tribes upon a safer and more permanent footing. Third. We shall retain to the Union a vast territory, unexcelled in climate, rich in soil, and exhaustless in its various resources ; and thus lay open for the general welfare new channels for commerce and fresh fields for enterprise. Fourth. We shall (in the event of the proposed rail road) greatly en- hance the prosperity and wealth of the Western States. Fifth. vVe shall prevent the annual sacrifice of an immense amount of life and property in the navigation of a dangerous sea, for a distance of some twelve thousand miles. Sixth. We shall affera thronged the vicinity. The valleys of the Yampah and Little Bear were broad, in places, with a deep soil of dark, sandy loam, and tolerably well timbered. The country contiguous to them was rugged and generally sterile ; tht soil, with the exception of the creek bottoms, being shallow and sandy, and infested with extensive fields of absinthe. By the way we passed a fort, formerly occupied by a company of trap- pers under the command of Frapp, near which himself and four other whites were killed in an engagement with the Sioux some two years since. The Indians lost fifteen or twenty of their warriors in killed and wounded, but succeeded in driving ofl^ eighty head of horses as their booty. Among the rocks of the hills I noticed frequent clusters of larb, richly laden with its deep red berry,* both tempting to the eye and pleasing to the taste. On reaching the Platte we were ushered into a large and beautiful circu- lar valley, known as the New Park. This valiey is thirty-five miles in width by thirty in breadth, and is shut in upon all sides by lofty mountains, whose summits tower far above tha enow-line and sport their white-caps through each returning year. It ii well watered by numerous streams that trace their course from the neigh- boring heights to commingle with the Platte. The river makes its exit from this place by a forced passage through nar- row defiles, between the Medicine Bow and New Park Mountains, forming a canon several miles in length, defined by precipitous walls, varying in height from fifty to six hundred feet. The New Park valley aflbrds considerable timber of various kinds, and a fertile soil, well adapted to cultivation. The superfice is usually a thick mould, compounded of clay, sand, and gravel, witli decomposed vegetable matter ; while the bottoms disclose a rich alluvion of two or three feet depth. The entire country was crowded with game, in countless numbers, both of buffalo, elk, and deer. It seemed as though a general ingathering from mountain, hill, and plain, had taken place to winter in this chosen spot. It is said the great abundance of game first suggested the christening of the locality as the Nsw Park. We remained in our encampment till the 6th of December, and improved the interval in procuring a choice supply of meat, and feasting upon thoat dehcious viands which mountaineers so well know how to acquire and dia^ pose of. The day preceding our departure, a fall of enow covered the ground fct • The larb-berry is of a deep red color, and somewhat larger than the common cur mat. It is of a sweet spicy taste, and very pleasant. It grows upon a small grouiuh vine of evergreen, with a leaf assimilating the winter-clover in shape, ai\d is fcwkl «Jj in mountainous regions. EOUTS TO BAYOU SALDAB. 287 inches, but the lapee of a few hours served to disclose the bart fegetation of the valleys, and denuded spots upon the mountain sides. Again en rotUe, we continued up a large stream from the south and struck into a broad trail, which led through large openings and forests of aspen across the main mountain chain, to the waters of Grand river, into a beauv tiful valley known as the Old Park, where we remained encamped the two days subsequent. Our nearest route to Fort Lancaster would have been by C&che a la Poudre, or Long's Peak ; but, accumulating snows admonished us to abai>> don the Atlantic side of the mountains for a more southern latitude. The country in the vicinity of the Old Park is highly interesting. Item- braces a large tract of fertile territory, well watered and timbered, but more CB* less undulating, and is hemmed in by high mountains, which are clothed with lateral forests of pine, cedar, and aspen. This valley ranges from east to west ; and, heading at the base of Long's Peak, finds its opposite extremity at the canon by which Grand river emerges through the opposing barriers of mountain spurs. The Old Park also, like the New, receives its appellation from the great abundance of game for which it is celebrated. CHAPTER XXVm. from Grand river to Bayou Saiade. — Observations by the way.— Description of the Bayou. — Voracity of magpies. — Journey to Cherry creek. — Country en route. — Crystal creek. — Abundance of game. — Antelope hunting. — Remarkable sagacity of wolves. — Snow storms and amusemeni. — Ravena. — Move camp. — Comfortable win- ter quarters. — Animal food conducive to general health and Ionge^^ty. — A laugha- ble instance of sound sleepuig. — Astonishing wolfine rapacity. — Beaver lodges and aH about beaver.-— Hunting excursion.— Vasque's creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairiee. — Camp. — I^eft alone. — Senjsations, and care to avoid dan- fer. — A nocturnal visitor. — Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. — A lofty speoi men of" gettin down stairs." — Geological statistics. While camped at the Old Park, I improved the opportunity for ranging among the adjacent mountains, whose stem recesses disclosed many smil- ing beauty-spots. The weather continued pleasant, though somewhat colder than usual ; and, notwithstanding the snow in places lay quite deep, it had acquired great solidity and compactness. On the 10th of December we were again under way. Crossinff Grand river and continuing up a southern tributary, through a a narrow defile of mountains, to a large valley formed at the junction of three principal branches, known us La Bonte's-hole, and choosing the mii die one, we proceeded to its head, — thence, passing the dividing ridge by a well-beaten boflaio trail, to the right of Long's Peak, on tht ICth wt 288 VORACITY or MAGPIES. reached Bayou Sal&de, another extensive valley at the head of the Soath Fork of the Platte. Here, selecting a good camping place in a beautiful grove of aspen, we remained till the 19th inst. This last stage of our journey proved difficult and tedious. Although the passing throngs of buffalo had afforded a well-marked trail, our horses fre- quently became so mired in snow, we were compelled to extricate them by main strength,— two or three storms, in the mean time, having increased the quantity to an average depth of twelve or fourteen inches. The valleys and sunny hill-sides, however, were generally bare, and af- forded some agreeable respites to the toil of travellmg. The prevailing rock appeared to be granite, mica slate, and sandstone. The soil of the valleys gave evidence of fertility, as did occasional spota upon the hill-sides. The streams were most of them skirted with cottonwood, aspen, and box- elder, while the hills and mountains presented frequent groves of pine and cedar. Game, in all the different varieties common to the country, was seen in great abundance the entire route. Bayou Salade is a valley some thirty-five miles long by fifteen wide, bounded upon all sides by lofty mountain chains, witli 5ie exception of the south, where a broad stretch of high, rugged hills and rolling prairies sepa- rates it from the Arkansas. The Platte, on emerging from this place, makes its final entrance into the grand prairie by a narrow gorge in the mountain chain that extends to a distance of several miles. Upon the southeast, the frowning summits of Pike's Peak tower to a height of 12,600 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexicoj and upon the west the continuous chain of the Green Mountains, clothed in eternal snow, point skyward in solemn grandeur. The numerous streams that find their sources in the neighborhood are well timbered, and present many interesting bottoms of rich alluvial soil. The valley is densely thronged with buffalo, while vast quantities of deer, elk, and antelope unite to increase the number and variety of its game. The weather at this time proved uncomfortably cold. Snow lying upon the ground to the depth of several inches, we were necessitated to feed our horses upon cottonwood bark during the interim. Bayou Salade bears the name of being subject to severe winters, but whether correctly or not, I am unable to say. It is undoubtedly well idapted to stock-raising, and, were it not for unseasonable frosts, might be turned to good account for agricultural purposes. The magpies were more troublesome and audacious in their depredations hereabouts, than in any place we liad yet visited. Twc mules, whose backs bad become sore from continued service under the saddle, were se- verely annoyed by these relentless pesecutors, which, despite opposing effort, would pierce the skinless flesh with their beaks and feast upon their agonizing victims. To save the poor sufferers from being devoured alive, we were conv CAMP AT CHERRY CREEK. *^ pelled to envelope thera with thick coverings of bufialo robes, and even thei the rapacious cormoiunts could scarcely be prevented from renewing their cruel repast. Dec. I9ih. Again resuming our journey, we continued in a southeast direction, over a low ridge of hills, and found ourselves in a very rough country, interspersed with frequent valleys which head several well tim- bered affluents of the Arkansas ; — thence, passing around the southern extremity of a lofty mountain range, we struck Fontaine qui Bouit a few miles below the Soda spring. Crossing this stream, we travelled north by west, following the moun- tain ridge at its base for some forty miles, which brought us to the Platte j — thence, keeping the river bottom, on the 28th we made camp at Cherry creek, a short distance above its mouth. The interesting and romantic country in the vicinity of Pike's Peak and Fontaine qui Bouit has already been described in full, and needs but one passing remark in attestation of the mildness of its climate, viz : the ground was free from snow, and afforded occasional spots of green grass. Near this place we encountered a small hunting party of Arapaho In- dians, and obtained from them a choice supply of fresh meat. The mterval from the Soda spring to the Platte, after passing the high, towering and isolated walls of red granitic sandstone to the northward, be- trays a mixed character of wildness and beauty. The vast forests of stately pines, surmounting the long rolling hills to the right, which are relieved as the traveller advances by high table lands and quadrangular-shaped eminences that disclose their bare sides, ever and anon graced with lateral cedars and dwarf oaks ; and then the heaven-scaling summits ihat, in con- tinuous chain, oppose an impregnable wall upon the left, unite to define a broad-spread of undulating prairie, some eight or ten miles wide, well wa- tered and possessed of a good soil. The prevailing rock of this section appeared to be sandstone and lime- stone, intermixed with conglomerates of various kinds. I noticed two or three small ridges, several miles long, running parallel with the mountains at regular distances, in an uninterrupted course, pre- senting continued hnes of thin strata planted vertically in their sharp crests, and reaching to an elevation of thirty or forty feet, that, with broken finaoments encumbering their sides, looked like the half-fallen walls of some ai lent fortification. Among several affluents of the Platte irom the right, we crossed Crys- tal creek, a stream which derives its name from the existence af crystal in its sandy bed. This creek is tolerably well timbered and possesses a rich bottom of variable width, producing at the proper season a luxuriant growth of vegetation. Our horses being quite enfeebled from the fatigue of travel, we gladly availed ourselves of the presence of buffalo to prolong our stay at Qierry creek some ten days, and meanwhile found no difficulty in procuring a con- tinued feast of good things fi-ora the dense herds that thronged tlie countrf upon ejBry side. 2§ »o jarrRATEGY of wolves. The severe weather and frequent snows of the past two months, had driven these animals from the open prairie into the creek hottoms and mountains, whose vicinities were completely blackened with their countless thousands. The antelope, too, seemed to have congregated from all parts, and cover- ed the country in one almost unbroken band. Their numbers exceeded any thing of the kind I ever witnessed before or since. We amused our- selves at times in shooting them merely for their skins, the latter being su perior to those of deer or even sheep in its nicity of texture and silky soft One day, as was my custom, I left camp for the above purpose, and had proceeded but a short distance, when, happening upon a large band of ant^ lope, a discharge from my piece brought down one of its number. Before reaching it, however, my supposed victim had rejoined his com- panions, and the whole throng were lost to view almost with the speed of thought. The profuseness of blood that marked its trail through the snow, induced me to follow it in expectation of soon obtaining the object of my pursuit ; but in vain. At Jengtli, after travelUng four or five miles, I began to despair of suo- cess and, feeling weary, sat down upon the point of a small hill that com- mjuided a view of the surrounding prairie. While here an unusual stir among the wolves attracted my attention, and I amused myself by watch- ing their movements. Upon a neighboring eminence some fifty or a hundred of these insatiate marauders were congregated, as if for consultation. Adjoining this, two parallel hues of low hills led out from the river bottom into the prairie, for five or six miles, defining a narrow valley, at the extremity of which a large band of antelope were quietly grazing. The chief topic of the wolfine conference seemed to have particular re- ference to this circumstance ; for, in a very short time, the council dis- persed, and its members betook to the hills skirting the valley before de- scribed, and, stationing themselves upon both lines at regular intervals, two of them commenced the attack by leisurely approaching their destined prey from opposite diiections, in such a manner as to drive the whole band between the defile of hungry expectants. This done, the chase began without further preliminary. Each wolf performed his part by pursuing the teiTified antelope till re- lieved by his next companion, and he by tlie succeeding one ; and so on, alternately ; taking care to reverse their course at either extremity of the defile — again and again to run the death-race, until, exliausted by the inces- sant eflTort and crazed with terror, the agile animals, that were wont to bid defiance to the swiftest steed, and rival tiie storm-wind in iieetness, fell easy victims to the sagacity of their enemie.s. I watched the operation until several of them yielded their lifeless car- cases to appease the appetite of their rapacious pursuers, when I returned to camp with far more exalted ideas of the instinctive intelligence of wolves (savoring so strongly of reason and calculation) than I had previously en- tertaindd. ANIMAL FOOD CONDUCIVE TO GENERAL HEALTH. 291 Two or three severe snow-storms occurred shortly after our arrival ; but laving constructed commodious shantees in regular mountain style, with «rge fires in tront, we were botli dry and comfortable. These occasions, too, afforded their own amusement. Snugly stowed away in bed, with our rifles at hand, whenever a straggling wolf ventured within gun-shot, in fond hopes of a deserted camp, he was almost sure to fall a victim to his own temerity. Bands of five or ten would frequently approach almost to the camp-fire, totally unsuspicious of danger till the sharp crack of a rifle told the fall of some one of their number. A swarm of ravens, allured by the carcases of these animals, peopled the grove near by. Having devoured the timely feast, still the poor birds remained, making the day dismal with their tireless croakings, as if in im- portunate supplication for a further boon. Three of them soon became quite domesticated, and would approach fear- lessly to the very verge of the camp-fire in quest of the offals of our culi- nary department. One, however, by far exceeded his two companions in boldness, and would venture within a few feet of us at any time. So audacious was his conduct, and so insatiate his appetite, his comradei took occasion to bestow upon him frequent chastisements ; but all to no purpose. At length, abandoning all hope of effecting the desired reforma- tion, they set upon the offending bird, nor relinquished their purpose till the life of the luckless gormandizer had expiated tlie crime of his unraven like conduct, and his executioners were left to enjoy their daily repasts with- out the annoyance of his presence. Jan. I6ih, 1843. Having received an accession of tliree men to our number, from Fort Lancaster, we removed some six or eight miles further down tiie Platte, and camped in a large grove of cottonwood upon the light bank. At this place it was our daily pmctice to fell two or three small trees for (^ur horses, as we now considered ourselves fully established in winter quarters. Game was plenty, and wood abundant ; nothing, therefore, re- mained for us to do but to recruit our horses, eat of the best the prairie af- forded, drink of the crystal waters that rolled by our side, and enjoy life in true mountain style; nor did we neglect the opportunity of so doing. In fact, had the world been searched over, it would have been hard to find a jollier set of fellows than we. The effort of a few hours v/as sufficient to procure a month's supply of the choicest delicacies, nor is it marvellous tliat, to use a cant phrase of t}»e country, we soon became "fat, ragged, and saucy. ^^ Perhaps nothing is more conducive to good health than animal food. In proof of this I need only to refer to the uniform good health of those sub- sisting entirely upon it. Sickness of any kind is rarely known to the various Indian tnbes con fined exclusively to its use. These people almost invariably live to an <»• 292 SOUND SLEEPnra. traordinary age, unless cut off by the ravages of war or some unforeseen event. Consumption, dyspepsy, colds, and fevers, are alike strangers to them. The same observation holds good in regard to the whites who reside in this country and subsist in a similar manner. I have known confirmed cases both of consumption and dyspepsy cured by visiting these regions and submitting exclusively to this mode of living. For my own part, I felt not the least indisposed during the entir period of my stay, nor did I even hear of an instance of death from natural causes in the mean time, and but rarely of a case cf sick- ness, however slight. The same also has been repeatedly remarked Ji my hearing by persons who have resided here for ten or twelve years, and whose united experience corroborates my own. A further fact, relative to the teeth, is worthy of note in connection with this subject. These never suffer by decay or aches, when em- ployed only in the mastication of flesh ; or, at least, I have never seen or heard of an instance of the kind. I am, therefore, led to conclude from the foregoing facts, that animal food is in every respect the most wholesome and innocent diet which can be adopted. A person in the enjoyment of good health and a quiet mind, generally sleeps sound. In proof that such was the case with our party, I need only advert to a circumstance which here occurred. Having awoke one moonshiny night, and observing an unusual number of wolves in the vicinity of camp, I seized my rifle and shot one of them; Boon after I improved the opportunity to lay another prostrate, and in a few minutes subsequent a third fell in like manner ; all at three several shots. A continuation of the sport seemed likely to detract too much from the hours of sleep, and so, placing the victims in front of the camp-fire, I ad- dressed myself to repose. A light snow fell in the interval, and sunrise found us all in bed, patiently waiting to see who would have the courage to rise first. At lengtli, one man jumped up and turned to renew the fire. On noticing the wolves before it he wheeled for his rifle, in his eagerness to secure which he fell Fprawling at full length. " Hello !" says one ; "what's the matter, my boy. Is that are a sample of the ups and downs of life ?" "Matter?" exclaimed our hero, gathering himself up in double-quick time, and rushing for his gun ; " matter enough ! The cursed wolves have grown so bold and saucy, that they come to the fire to warm themselves ! Only look ! A dozen or more of 'em are there now, in broad day-fight ! Get up, quick I and let's kill 'em!" Aroused by this extraordinary announcement, the whole posse were in- stantly on their feet to repel the audacious invaders ; when, lo ! the cause of alarm proved three dead carcases. But, where did they come from ? When were they killed ? Who placed them there ? These were questions none were able to solve, and in regard lo whidi all were profoundly ignorant Finally, the circumstance ocg»> ABOUT BEATElt 295 sioned quite an animated discussion, which was soon merged into angry dispute ; and, after amusing' myself awhile at their expense, I unravelled the mystery, to the surprise of all. " Can it be possible !" was the general exclamation, — " can it be possible that we should have slept so sound as not to hear the report of a rifle fired three times in succession, and under our very ears, at that!" " This reminds me," said one, " of dreaming that somebody fired du- ring the night. But it seemed so much like other dream? I had forgotten it till now." " Well," retorted a second, " we are a pretty set of customers to live in a dangerous country ! Why, a single Indian might have come into camp and killed the whole of us, one after another, with all the ease imaginable !'' The above incident induced the narration of a circumstance, happening to an individual of my acquaintance two or three weeks previous. He had been into the mountains after deer, and was on his return to the Fort for a fresh supply of ammunition, and, having occasion to camp out at night, like a genuine mountaineer, he took his saddle for a pillow. This, being covered with raw hide, excited the cupidity of a marauding wolf. The hungry beast felt ill-disposed to let slip an opportunity thus faTora- ble for appeasing his appetite with a dry morsel, and so, gently drawing it from beneath the head of the unconscious sleeper, rangements, I improved the first fair day to launch forth upon the drear waste. Relying upon the great abundance of game usually encountered en route, I took but a small supply of provisions, as, fully equipped, with rifle, pistols, butcber-knife, and other requisites, I mounted my horse, and, sohtary and alone, commenced the long journey before me. Hurrying on as fast as the nature of the case would admit, in the afte> noon of the second day, an object, several miles ua advance, arrested my attention. Suspicious of danger, but anxious to know its character and ex- tent, I cautiously approached and was gratified to find it, instead of the lurking savage my imagination had depicted, a white man, hastening with eagerness to greet me. He was on foot, and looked way-worn and weary to a deplorable extent His story was soon told. He was the bearer of despatches from the Arkan- sas to Colonel Warfield, — and being compelled to abandon his mule by the way, on account of the depth of snow, had proceeded thus far on foot, and, for the last three days had been without eating, in the tedious performance of the duty committed to his trust. Hearing this, I invited him to a creek near by, where I immediately struck camp, and laid before him my small stock of eatables, with the as- surance it was at his disposal. The speedy disappearance of the scanty supply, attested the keenness of his appetite, and left us both m a state of utter want. On learning that Colonel W. had left for the Arkansas several days since, and now most probably had reached his destination, my new ac- quaintance concluded to retrace his steps and bear me company. The next morning we arose breakfastless and resumed our journey, trusting to a kind Providence and our rifles to meet the demands of nature* But the snow became deeper the farther we advanced, and prospects more and more gloomy at every step. Not a Uving creature presented itself to view, nor even the least vestige of any thing possessing the breath of Ufe. Before and around lay a vast spread of winter-bleached desolation, bounded upon our right by the distant mountains, whose towering summits pierced the blue heavens and laughed at the clouds and storms below, wbAle in front, and rear, and on our left, the curving horizon alone gave limit to vision. i Still hope bade us advance, although difficulties continued to multiply ia threefold ratio. The second and third day our progress did not exceed twelve miles, and yet we had gone so far retreat or advance seemed alik* hopeless. Starvation stared us in the face, and continued travel through inovr efttimes waist deep, reduced our strength and wasted our spirits. On the fourth day, however, the weather having become man lEvenU^ 26 902 THE CHANCE SHOT. we weri enabled to make further headway than the preceding one. We also saw v few ravens, but they, as if conscious of our desperate condition, cautious!, avoided coming within gun-shot ; — a big rabbit Ukewise showed itself in th-> distance, but, being at the top of its speed, disappeared almost aa soon as f/een ; — thus we were again doomed to go supperless to bed and feast upont'>e well-furnished tables of dreams, which, though they please the fancy dcring their continuance, serve only to increase the appetite and stimulate its cravings. On the moi Mng of the fifth day, as we arose to continue our journey, determined to noM out as long as possible, the haggard looks of my com- rade excited r?> compassion, and wishing to cheer him, 1 observed, " Well, wha would you think were I. to predict for us a good supper to- night ]" ** Really," sai. ha, " I don't know. But there's a poor show for its ful filment, any how ' "We shall hav\ one, I know it." " God send we r;ay. But, pray, where is it to come from. ** I am quite confident we shall find game. If so, as my rifle bears tlMl name of Old Straightciej, and it has never been known to fail in a case o^ emergency, I know sb; will maintain her ancient honor." " What if we don't fnA game ] Then how." " Why, here's my hors;^. It will be of no service to me if I am to di«» from starvation. In case w^ find nothing, its carcase shall save our lives.' "Horse meat or any thinr else wouldn't go bad, just at this time." Thus resolved, we continued our r^ay, plodding along in gloomy silencr brooding over the sad realities of oit deplorable situation, — ever and anon scanning the vacant expanse, in ihe fas!:-waning hope of looked-for reliei: —but as yet looked for in vain. The day was fast verging to a close, an.^ I was summoning a sufficien cy of fortitude to submit to the sacrifi"^ ,>f ray favorite beast, and rumi nating upon the many difficulties and incon eniences that must result from such a step, volving and revolving al' th,: pros and cons the cas« admitted of, when I was roused from my reverie L v the shrill voice of m) comrade, who joyfully exclaimed, " Look ! — look ! A bufialo l" — at the same time p^ inting in the direc tion it appeared. I looked, and sure enough a venerable old bull piMsente^ hi^iseif a fei*. hundred yards to the right. " Aye, aye, my hearty ! There's a chance for Old Straight*, uei !*' sa*. It as, lowering my rifle, I started towards the intended victim, " Don't forget," cried my comrade, ** that all my hopes of salvation an centred in your rifle-ball." The animal was feeding quietly, and I was enabled to approach withn Bome sixty yaids of him, when levelhng, I pulled trigger, — but the c&f being damp, burst without a discharge. The noise caught the quick ea; of the bufialo, and caused him to look round ; — however, seeing nothinfi to excite his ularui, he soon^ resumed an employment more agreeable U. his taste than needless vigilance. Having put fresh powder into the tube, and supplied it with another cam I wa» again raising to take aim, aiid had brought my piece nearly haU NOTICE OF THE ROUTE. 803 ehoulderward, when it unceremoniously discharged itseh, buryii-g Iss ball in the lights of the buffalo — the very spot I should have selected had it been optional witli myself. The old fellow staggered a few steps and fell dead! My companion coming up, we soon completed the process of butch Bring, and, after furnishing ourselves with an ample supply of choice beef, pro- ceeded to a neighboring creek, where, finding a few sticks of drift-wood, a fire was quickly kindled, and v/e ended our fast of Jive successive day*, and nights with feasting and glad hearts. I have always regarded this event as a special Providence, and evei re- vert to it with no ordinary feelings of gratitude. Had the ball, thus avjci- dentally discharged, missed the animal, or had it only wounded him, in all human probability, becoming alarmed at the presence of danger, and prompted by the instinct common to the species, he would soon have been beyond the reach of pursuit, leaving me to the dernier resort of slaughter- mg my horse or perishing among the snows and chill blasts of the prairie. Enfeebled as we v/ere from continued toil and suffering, we could have scarcely held out a day longer, and even the partial relief afforded by a poor supply of horse flesh, left, as we would have been, to travel on foot and carry our beds, guns, and provisions, must have served only to prolong our miseries a brief space, finally to meet the inevitable fate that threatened us ! as this sohtary buffalo was the only living creature that met our view during the entire journey. I have never consented to dispose of the rough-looking piece long pre viously christened " Old Straightener," and, when asked the reason, hav* uniformly replied, " It is the only gun I ever saw or heard of that has kill- ed game of its own accord ! The second day succeeding this occurrence, my companion left me to ob- tain his mule, and I completed the remainder of my journey alone, — arriving the appointed rendezvous late in the afternoon of the 20th of March. The country travelled over, from the Platte to the Arkansas, near the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit, has been fully described in former pages. My route, from the mouth of this stream, followed tlie Arkansas for some forty miles. The landscape, back from the river-bottoms, was quite undu- lating, presenting upon the left a superfice of gravel, clay, and sand, mixed with vegetable matter ; and, upon the right, a light, sandy soil, somewhat sterile and unproductive. Many ricli spots of a deep bluish loam meet the eye of the traveller, in- terspersed with spreads of naked sand, or clay whitened by exuding salts, or clothed in dwarfish grass; among which numerous clusters of absinthe, frequently five or six feet high, are seen in almost every direction. The country, as a general thing, is evidently ill-adapted to other thar grazing purposes. Two broad beds of sand-creeks are passed upon the left, a few miles be- low Fontaine qui Bouit, one of which is Black Squirrel creek, and the other is known as the Wolf's Den. Upon the right, the Rio San Carlos, Cor- nua Virda, Apache, and Huaquetorie, after tracing their serpentine couraet from the Taos Mountains, commingle with the Arkansas. Some six miles below the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit ar© the ruiiw of •04 PRIMARY MOVEMENTS, ui dd fort, occupied several years since by one Capt. Grant as a trading port. The last of my course, being upon tlie side of the river, was much im- peded by mud ; and, although the surface was gene j ally bare, travellln||r was even more tedious than it had been at any time hitherto. After a series of suffering and deprivation so continued and severe, right gladly did I hail the Lone Star banner upon the opposite shore, as their point of present termination. Fording the Arkansas about a mile above the Texan encampmett, 1 found it nearly swimming deep, with a swift and muddy current over a bed of quicksand and gravel. My appearance created no little surprise among all present, as they had •everal days since numbered me with those who had volunteered with great readiness, so far as promises were concerned ; but, when pbbform- ASCES were required, ^^carne up missing.''^ I must confess, however, to great disappointment in the diminutive force that here met my view, which consisted of only twenty-four men, includ- ing officers — all told. But several accessions were expected, sufficient to swell the number to fifty five or sixty. A party of eighty volunteers from the States were to meet us at the " Crossing " of the Arkansas, on the Santa Fe trail, together witii a detachment of two hundred and fifty from Texas ; and, with these reinforcements, it was confidently asserted we would be equal to the combined force of all New Mexico. I immediately reported myseif to the commanding olficer, and was kindly welcomed, with the remark, •* Well, sir, you are just in time. Anotlier day and you would have been too late. We move camp to-morrow mornmg." (A pity it was I had not been too late !) Withdrawuig from tfje conference, the lapse of a few moments gave me an opportunity to look around and see among whom I had fallen. It would have been hard to scare up a more motley group of humanity in any place tliis side of Mexico. Each mdividual presented a uniform as varied as the imagination could depict, tliough tallying well witli the gene- ral appearance of the whole company — it was a uniform of rags! Still from beneath the dusky visages, half obscured by beards to which the kindly operations of their razors had been for weeks and even months a stranger, I detected the frauk expression indicating the generous- hearted mountaineer, and began lo feel at home, notwithstanding the fast* rising feelings of regret that fortune had thrown me in their way. Early in the morning of the following day we were drawn up in line and divided into two detachments, — one consisting of ten, and the other of lourteen men. The first of these, under the command of Colonel Warfield, were to proceed to the Crossing of the Arkansas, and await the arrival of the main army, or otherwise act as circumstances suggested, while the second, headed by a lieutenant, marched up the Rio de las Animas to the Toas trail, to perform the duties of a corps of observation until further orders. It was mjf Jot to accompany the latter, and we promptly commenced DESCRIPTION OF THE DE LAS ANIMAS. 305 After riding a few rniles we struck the Timpa, a small affluent of the Arkansas, up which we traveliod till the next day about noon, wlien, coming to an Indian trail leading south-southwest to the de las Animas, we follow- ed it and reached the latier stream on the 27th of March; continuing up the de las Animas, three days subsequently we arrived at our destination. The country passed over at the commencement of our journey, for fifteen or twenty miles, was a slightly undulating prairie, of a sandy soil, with few indications of productiveness. Tlie Timpa is entirely destitute of timber, and its valley, though plen- tiful in absinihe, is scarcely superior to the surrounding prairie. Sev- eral miles previous to leaving it, our course lay between two ridges of forbidding and sterile hills, nearly destitute of vegetation, and affording only nuw and then a few scraggy cedars and shrubs. Indeed, but very lit- tle good land is found in this vicinity. On diverging fi-om tlie Timpa the trail crossed a high, arid prairie, which was furrowed by deep ravines, and ridged by long rolling hills, that were occasionally surmounted by cedars and pinions, until it struck the de las Animas. The watercourses through this section are rare, and sparsely timber- ed, being for the most part shut in by high banks of earth or lofty walls of precipitous rock, varying in altitude, and presenting vast chasms, passable only at certain points. Their valleys are narrow, but possess a fertile soil which is to some extent susceptible of cultivation, while many parte of the adjacent prairies might answer for grazing purposes. The prevailing rock, so far as my observation extended, was coarse- grained granite and limestone. I noticed at places along the creek val- leys occasional spots of calcareous earth ; and, in fact, their soils general- ly indicated the presence of calcium in their compound, to no incon- siderable extent. The valley of the Rio de las Animas was by far the most interesting and romantic section of country we had as yet entered upon in tlie JVIexi- can, or, as it is now claimed, Texan territory. This stream, in English, bears the name of Purgatory creek ; in French, it is known as the Fiquer Veau, or Water of Suftering; in Indian, it is called the Wild River, and in Spanish, it is christened by the term above used, which means the River of Souls. It rises in the Taos Mountains by two separate heads, a little south of the Spanish Peaks, and emerges from its rugged birth-place into the plains, where the two branches trace their way for some tifty miles and then unite to form one stream. These forks are passably well timbersd, and we skirted at intervals with rich bottoms ; but tiie circumjacent country is drj JoJJing, and generally barren. A biiort distance below their confluence the river cuts its way through an expanse of iiigli, barren table lands, for sixty or sixty-five miles, leaving abrupt walls of rock and earth on both sides, piled to a varied height of from fifty to three or four hundred feet, surmounted by groves of cedar and l»inii>n, interspersed with broad pavements of naked rock, imde wastes o^ itifl sun-baked clay, and occasional clusters of coarse gTass. 28* 306 AOONIZING CONDITION. These walls are often perpendicular, though they generally acclint somewhat, and are ornamented with scattering shrubs and cedars, which m vain seek to hide tlie forbidding deformity of nature. They frequently intrude to the veiy water's edge, and pile at their feet and in the foaming current huge masses of rock, strown about m all the wild disorder of savage scenery; then, expanding at brief inter\'als, they picture many sweet, enchanting spots, that smile and bloom in unfading loveliness, where angels might recline, and, listening to the chime of their own voices, echoed from rock to rock and reverberated with unheard-of melody, might lancy themselves in heaven ; then again closing, to open in like manner at some favored point, till they finally give place to a broad and beautiful valley, from one to three miles in width, of unsurpassed fer- tility, and abounding at the proper season in every ^. ariety of fruit and flower known to the country, v/hich, mingling amid the the scattering cot- tonwoods, (free from under-brush and mimicing in their arrangement the regularity of art,) seem to portray the fabled fields of Elysian bliss. This valley extends from the mouth of the canon to the junction of the do Jas Animas witli the Arkansas — a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles ; for ten or fifteen of which it is skirted with receding hills, that maintain their stern sublimity till they at length become swallowed up in the far-spreading prairie. This is a favorite resort for deer, antelope, and turkey, which are found in great numbers, gambolling amid its varied beauties, or winding along its narrow defiles and forbidden recesses. We entered the canon through a narrow and steep declivity, formed by a small stream, v/hich was shut in by continuous clilfs, that increased in height as they approached their lofty counterparts immurinjt the angry river. After winding a day and a half among the crags and confused masses, which constantly intervened to impede our way, in vain searching for an egress, we found it impossible to proceed further, and were forced to climb the almost vertical bank, at an ascent of five or six hundred feet, — frequently lifting onr horses over the rocks by means of ropes attached to their bodies and drawn from the impending summit ; — this tedious process occupied nearly a day in its completion, and left us upon the lateral table land ex- hausted in strength and worn down with fatigue. We were eleven days en route, during which time we suffered greatl> from the severity of the weather, hunger, toil, and watching. The air was bleak, the winds cold and piercing, and the sky almost continually over-cast with clouds, while two or three snow storms contri- buted their mite to swell the catalogue of comfortless hours. Our horses, too, had becom.e so exhausted ^rom' hard fare and previous service, we were necessitated to travel on foot for most of the distance. But the grand climax of miseries was experienced through lack of food. A scanty supply of buffalo meat, taken with us at the outset, was consumed at the next meal, aad we were loft without one morsel to appease the gnaw- ings of appetite for the two days and three nights succeeding. A straggling wolf tliat chance threw in our way, at the •xpiration of thif SPY CAMP. 807 time, most luckily furniBhed us with a breakfast, though nothing furthef entered our mouths till the" morning of the third day from this, when, com- ing to the site of a recent Indian encampment, we succeeded in gathering a few pieces of dry buffalo hide, that lay scattered about — so hard and tough tlie wolves had tried in vain to gnaw them ; these, after being boiled some twelve or fourts^en hours, afforded us a paltry substitute for something bet- ter, but of so glutinous a nature it almost cemented the teeth employed in its mastication. The two days following we were again doomed to go hungry and began to talk seriously of the imminent danger of starving to death. This interval had brought us into tlie canon of de las Aminas, where, having struck camp, several of the men sought a temporary respite irom tiie torments of hunger by eating roasted cacti ; — the article at first tasted well, and from the recommendation of the essayists, several were induced to partake of it quite heartily. But the lapse of a brief hour or two brought with it the " tug of war," when the inherent properties of the cacti began to have their effect upon the enervated systems of the participants. The painful consequences of this strange diet at first were a weakness in the joints, succeeded by a severe trembling and a desire to vomit, accom- panied with an almost insufferable paia in the stomach and bowels. Three or four of the unfortunate sufferers were in such extreme pain they rolled upon the ground for agony, with countenances writhing in every im- aginable shape of frightful distortion. Hereupon it was decided to sacrifice one of our animals as a last re-oort, which was promptly done, and we ended our fast of nearly seven dayn' con- tinuance with a feast of mule meat. I had heretofore cherished a decided repugnance to tliis kind of food, but am in justice bound to say, it proved both sv/eet and tender, and sccrcely inferior to beef. The supply thus obtained lasted till we came airoiig buf- falo, when ample amends were made for previous abstinence. The only game encountered during the march was an ocuapional band of antelope or wild horses, whose extreme vigilance and caution set at defi- ance all attempts to approach tliem, and sported at the >hr jr^sy of our des^ perate efforts. Our camp, at the termination of this arduous rj-d eventful jorirTiey, was in a small grove of cottonwood, about eight hu-id eJ yards bolov;^ the point at which the trail, from Bent's Fort to Taos, cto'>p3j [he right hand fork of the de las Animas. It was faced on the north by a broad sand/ pa'.rie, fjently undulating that, at intervals, disclosed a good soil, and led to a distant ridge of pine-clai hills ; while from the west, at a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, the proud and isolated summits of the Spanish Peaks, or Huaquetories, arose to view, and from the southwest, the lofty and noble tierras lempladas that skirt the heads of the Cimarone and Colorado, whose broad topa showed themselves in beautiful contrast with the sharp, snow-clad moun tain forming the eastern boundary to the valley of Taos ; then, upoo tht 308 REWARD Or TREASON. south and east, a steep bank, twenty-five or tliirty feet high, shut mb from the contiguous plain. While here, we kept strict and constant guard, in view of anticipated movements of the enemy, as, from certain information previously obtained, we knew him to be quartered in full force at the nearest settlements. Our daily and hourly expectation was to meet a detachment of the Mex ican army, then out for the purpose of reconnoitering ; and, weak as we were in point of numbers, we felt quite equal to a hundred such soldiers, and were anxious for a trial of arms. Our stay was prolonged for three or four weeks, and the abundance of choice buffalo meat that continued to grace our larder, with the rank growth of fresh grass for the sustenance of our animals, imparted an air of cheer- fulness and thrift both to man and beast, Nothing occurred worthy of note during the interval, save the following incident. One day, late in the afternoon, our sentinels announced the ap- pearance of a small party of Mexicans at the crossing, and immediate pre- parations were made for an attack. Before these could be completed, how- ever, our expected enemy was reported as having raised camp and being likely to escape by a precipitate retreat towards the Arkansas. Six men, mounted upon fleet horses, were immediately detached in pursuit,— of whom I was one. The chase continued for several miles, and terminated in our overhaul- ing three persons, — but, instead of Mexicans, two of them were Americans, and the other an Englishman, on their way to the United States with two pack mules heavily laden with gold and silver. On receiving from them information of the disposition and probable whereabouts of the Mexican forces, they were permitted to depart unmo- lested, — a circumstance not likely to have happened had we been tlie gang of " lawless desperadoes,''^ so hideously depicted in several of the public prints of the day, as I have since learned. An item of the intelligence received through them, gave us mingled sen-, cations of pain and pleasure. An European Spaniard, — who had made one of the Texan army in its unfortunate expedition against Santa Fe, in the fall of 1842, and had been retained a prisoner of war for a number of months subsequent, having ef- fected his escape to the Indian country, — on hearing of the recent move- ments of the Texans under Col. Warfield, had come and reported himself ready again to enlist. On the strength of this assurance he was partially admitted to confidence^ —a tiling rarely to be reposed in any one of Spanish extraction. The re- sult was, that, after gleaning all the information circumstances would ad- mit of, he proceeded, post haste to 8ania Fe, and laid the whole aflair before Gen. Armijo, the Mexican Governor, in hopes of a handsome reward. The old Governor, however, liad received more exact intelligence, with the names and number of volunteers composing the party under Col. W., (furnished him through the medium of certain Americans, base enough in principle and sordid enough in motive, to act as his spies, for a paltry bribe in the shape of stipulated remissions of tariff" duties on imported goods, etc.i) and treated the traitor to his cause quite cavalierly, — not hesitating to t^ KATDRE or THE COUNTRY. him he lied, and even accuse him of being a Texan spy — threatening to try and execute him as such ! Were this ever the reward of treason, how few would be traitors I CHAPTER XXX. March down the Cimarone. — Jiinctiim of the two divisions. — Country between toa de las Aninias and the Cimarone. — Perilous descent. — Canon of the Cimarone. — Soil and prevailing rock. — A fort. — Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. — Beauty of rocks. — Cimarone of the plain. — Fruits and game. — Wide-spread desolation. — ^A dreary country. — Summer on the Desert.- -Remarks. — Encounter with Indians. — Nature's nobleman. — Wild hon;es and different modes of catching them. — Failure of expected reinforcements. — March into the enemy's country. — Ancient engravmga upon a, rock. — Boy in the wolf's den. — A man lo.st.— Forced march. — Torment of thirst. — Remarks. — The lost found. — Expulsion for cowardice,— its effect. Soon after the incident related at the close of the preceding chapter, an express arrived from the Col. commandant, witli dispatclics ordering our division to join Iiim at a small creek near tlie Pilot Bultcs, or •' Rabbit Ears," two noted landmarks situated some forty miles above the Santa Fe trail, and nearly equidistant between the Arkansas and Cimaiono. We accordingly took up our line of marcii and, proceeded nearly due south for two clays and a half, to the Cimarone ; thence, dcwn the valley of the latter, five days' travel to the Santa Fe trail, and thence, west-north- west, one day and a half to the place of rendezvous, which we found with- out difficulty after a journey of one hundred and seventy miles. Between the de las Animas and Cimarone, we crossed a long reach of arid prairie, slightly undulating and generally barren, witli the exception of small fertile spots among the hills, here and there, clotlied with rank grasses. -In some parts, the cadi so completely covered the ground that it was impossible to step, tor miles in succession, without treading upon tjieir sharp thorns ; in otliers, the thick clusters of ahsin/he monopolized the vi- cinity of creeks, nearly to the exclusion of all dissimilar vegetation ; and yet in others, though of more brief space, naked sterility refused foot t aught save gTavel and stifi'clay, or saline efflorescences. The water of most of the streams was so highly impregnated with min^ ral salts, it was often unfit to drink. The creeks afforded very little timber, and frequently none at all. The section immediately at the base of the high table lands to the right, exposed some beautiful spreads of fertile. prairie, well watered and suitably timbered. The soU, as a whole, presented all the prominent characlei> •sties of hke portions of country previously described. The prevailing rock was limestone and sandstone, with various conglo merates, and extensive beds of gypsum. I noticed some very large spect- 810 VALLEY OF THE CIMARCNE. mens of mica, of great beauty and transparency, — one, in particular, WM nearly a foot square, and two inches thick. The only indication of minerals coming under my notice, was iron and salts J though gold has been found in the immediate vicinity of the Hua- quetories, and silver in the neighborhood of the de las Animas, — some very rich specimens of the latter ore, said to have been procured in this region having met my observation. Near the Cimarone the country is very rugged and mountainous. Upon the right a lofty expanse of table land, some eight hundred or a thousand feet high, leads far off till it becomes lost in the distance ; while, upon the left, the more elevated tierras templadas of the Colorado, gently curving from south to east, mark the division between the Cimarone and the lattei' stream. Every watercourse is immured by canons of craggy rocks that often preclude all access to it for many successive miles. The side-hills and prairie ridges, to some extent, are clothed with pines, pinion, and cedars ; and the creeks, whenever the narrow space of their prison- walls will per- mit it, afford beautiful groves of Cottonwood and thick clusters oi' fruit-bear- ing shrubs and underbrush. Our course for a number of miles, previous to descending to the valley of the Cimarone, lay at the base of the table mountain on the right. The entrance to this valley was by a narrow bullaio trail, leading down a perpendicular wall of clay and rock, sidelong in a shelf-like path, barely wide enough for a single horse or man to advance carefully, as the least misstep might plunge him down the abyss to be dashed in pieces upon the sharp fragments detached from the overhanging cliffs. The wall thus descended was from eight hundred to a thousand feet in altitude, and faced by another of equal height at a distance of twenty-five or thirty yards. The spectacle was grand and awful beyond description. A rock, that brokejoose about midway as we descended the pass, fell thundering down the frightful steep with a tremendous crash, and made tlie welkin ring as it reverberated along the vast enclosure with almost deafening clamor. I have witnessed many romantic and picturesque scenes, but never one so magnificently grand, so awe-inspiring in its sublimity, as tliat faintly delineated in the preceding sketch. Entering the canon at this point, after wandering a short distance among the huge masses of broken rock thrown from its towering sides, the travel- ler is ushered into a valley nearly a mile broad, shut in by mural moun- tains that rise to a varied height of from eight to fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, gradually expandmg as he proceeds till it attains a width of from two to four miles. This valley generally possesses a very rich soil, sometimes of a deep, gravelly mould, and almost of vermiiion-like color, assimilating the famous redlands of Texas, and, in appearance, equally fertile, — then, a dark brown loam obtrudes to view, sustaining a dense vegetation of lusty growth, — ' and, yet again, a light sandy superstratum, affording but small indications of productiveness ; or dimniutive spreads of stiff clay, frowning in their 9W» Bndity ; or barren wastes, of less extent, that, in deep penitence fur GRANDEUR AND LOVELINESS. ^ll ti«ir utter worthlessness, exude their briny tears in unremitting succession which, as the solar rays strike on them with Itind intent to wipe away spread o'er their parent surfaces bleached shrouds of shining salt. The latter part of this description, so far as my observation has extended, will apply to nearly the entire valley of the Cimarone after it emerges from the canon. The place at which this romantic valley first attains its full width, is the confluence of a small tributary to the main creek, near an isolated sum- mit, that protrudes far out from the mountain range and commands the ap- proaches from either direction. This peak is five or eight hundred feet high, and inaccessible, except from the back ground by a gradual acclivity scarcely wide enough for two persons to ascend abreast. The top presents a small area of level surface, securely defended by an enclosing wall of rock, five or six feet in height, raised at its brow evidently by the hand of art. A better position, in a military point of view, for a fortification, is rarely found. Fifty men, suit- ably provisioned and equipped, might successfully defend it against an army of thousands. The rocks of tliis vicinity exhibit a more striking variety of color than any I ever before witnessed. Their predominant classification enumerates granite, sandstone (generally ferruginous,) limestone, and slate. These were disclosed in abrupt escarpments of several hundred feet altitude, or in isolated, quadrangular masses with vertical sides, assuming the appear- ance of gigantic fortifications, temples and palaces ; — or in a more multi- form aspect, now portraying vast wails with narrow basements, that, diver- ging from the mo'intains, intersect the valley at intervals from side to side, except, perchance, at a well-formed gateway, — now, towering monuments, spires, and pyramids, and again sculptured statues of men and beasts. All these magnificent representations are gorgeously decjved with parti- colored strata lying tier above tier, in regular order, some white, others black, blue, brown, green, gray, yellow, red, purple, or orange, and so strangely intermingled that they cannot fail to excite the admiration of every beholder. The Cimarone rises in the range of table lands tliirty-five or forty miles east -southeast of Taos, and, after following a serpentine course for nearly six hundred miles, empties into the Arkansas some distance above Fort Gibson. As it emerges from the mountains, (whore it is a stream of con- iderable depth and a rapid current, confined to a narrow space between high clayey banks, with a bed of rock and pebbles,) it expands to a great width, and, in a short distance, its waters become brackish and unfit for use, till they finally disappear among the qr.icksands, and leave a dreary waste of worse than emptiness, to mark the course of the transient vol- umes produced by the melting snows of spring and the annual i-ains of autumn. During its course through the Great American Desert, not a tree or shrub graces its banks. Its mountain valley, however, is ornamented with numerous and beautiful groves of cottonwood, that present among their underbrush a profuse abundance of plum, cherry, gooseberry, and cur- rant bushes, with grape vines ; while the adjoining hills afford oak, pinai pinioQ, and cedar. 812 HOME Of DESOLATIOir. Here also game abounds in great quantities, including buflaJo, wila horses, deer, antelope, elk, and turkeys. We frequently encountered four or five hundred head of wild horses in a single band, and turkeys showed themselves in every direction. The pleasant moonlight nights, that favored our journey through this delightful valley, were the source of great success in turkey-hunting, and afforded us no small sport. Nearly every large cottonwood tree was occu- pied as a roost, and the season as yet had not far enough advanced to hide its tenants amid tlie growing foliage. Each night, as the moon reached a suitable position, my practice was to seek out these perching-trees, from which I rarely failed to return heavily laden. One night myself and companion killed ten of these fowls — some of them having an inch thickness of pure fat upon the back. It is unnecesary to say that with such abudance, strown so lavishly on every side, tlie fare upon our march adown this thrice-enchanting valley was one continued scene of sumptuous entertainment. But, loveliness gives place to arid sterility, and verdure to dreary desola» tion, as the traveller makes his exit from the mountains. Almost the entire expanse, from the Arkansas nearly to the Gulf of Mexico, an interval ranging south-southeast, from fifty to two hundred miles in width, between longitudes lOO'^ and 104^ west from Greenwich, is said to be little else than a vast desert of barrenness, destitute of tree or shrub, or spire of grass relieve the aching eye, nor favoring stream with kindly flow to quench the fevered thirst. The whole country is subject to high winds, that sweep over it at brief intervals in maddened fury, bearing in their course immense clouds of dust, and engendering amid the waste landscape a scene of frequent change. To-day the wayfarer may find his progress impeded by no inconsiderable hills of loose sand, and to-morrow he may pass in the same direction and find a level prairie, — a fact not unaptly expressed in the words of the Psalmist, "the mountains skipped like rams, and the little hills like lambs!" Between the Cimarone and the Aikansas, back from the watercourses, tlie prospect is but little better. In the vicinity of the former are numerous spreads of rolling sand- prairie, if not entirely naked, but scantiy clothed with coarse, scattering grass, growing upon a surface so loose that a horse or mule will sink to his fetlocks at every step in passing over it ; then come broad'reaches of slightly undulating plains, mantled with sickly, dwarf vegetation, and sus- tained by a thin clayey soil, so baked and indurated by the sun as to be- come almost impervious to water. The snows of spring and the rains of autunm, as before hinted, aflbrd the only moisture ever known to these arid regions. Here dews, ahke with transient showers, are entire strangers to the summer months, and eave the scorcliing heat of a vertical sun to snatch the fading beauties of spring and turn their loveliness into stubble. The following lines, written upon tlie spot, as our little party were about to withdraw from this dreary solitude, but poorly portray some of tho di»« ■ud realities then presented : fiUMMER ON THK DESEBT. 1^ SUMMER ON THE GREAT AMERICAN DBSEET. Ye dreary plains, that round me lie, So parch'd witli summer's heat, No more ye please my wand'ring eye. Or woo my weary feet Why hath the spring your beauty bonw Into his hiding place, And left the widow'd winds to monra The charms tliey would embrace 7 Why should those flowers, whose honeyed breith With incense filled the breeze, Drooping and wither'd, lie in death, And now no longer please ? That grassy carpet, green and wide, Why turn'd to stiibble now ? Save 'chance along some streamlet's side, Where less'ning waters flow ! And why those gently murm'ring rills, Whose soft melodious strains Were wont to echo 'mong the hills. No longer reach the plains ? The lark no longer meets the mom,— Nor hnnet pours his throat, — Nor feather'd warbler hails the dawn With his sweet, mellow note ; — Nor even insect cheers the scene. Where Solitude alone, In wither'd garb, as Desert Queen, Rears her eternal throne ! Thtjse thirsty plains, with open month, Implore the gentle shower ; But vainly plead, while summer's drouth In schorching heat doth pour ! Nor grateful shade, of spreading tree. Invites my feet to rest ; Nor cooling stream, in melody, Attempts my quicken'd zest. So dismal all ! why should I stay And sicken by their view ? Thrice gladly will I tuni away. And bid these scenes adieu t 21 tl4 NATURE'S NOBLEMiJf. The only inhabitants of this vast region are strolling bands of bufiai* tnd wild horses, with wolves, prairie dogs, and a few scattering antelope The only human beings that visit it are Mexicaa traders and occasiona'. war-parties of Pawnee, Apache, Kiiyavva, Cumanche, and Arapaho In- dians, and they only for the brief interval required in its hurried passage. Who, then, so wild as to suppose for a moment that such a country can ever become inhabited by civilized man ? — unless the time should literalh be ushered in, when, to use the language of Scripture, " the desert shafi bud and blossom as the rose !" Late in the afternoon, towards the close of our journey, a little below the point at which the Santa Fe trail crosses the Cimarone, we came upon two norses that appeared to have recently strayed from some travelling party. According to the custom of the country anything encountered in this manner is good and^.lavv'ful prize to the finder, and we forthwith set lUwut taking possession. One of them, however, a two-year-old colt, proved so unmanageable we were obliged to kill it in order to secure the other. Being rather scantily supplied with provisions, the fresh-slaughtered animal (fine and fat as it was) presented an opportunity too tem.pting not to be improv- ed »n replenishing our stock, which induced us to encamp for that piupose. Soon after a large party of horsemen made their appearance from over the neighboring hills, and, having devoted a few minutes to recon- noitering, advanced upon us at full charge. In an instant our little force was drawn up in readiness to repel the expected attack. But, instead of enemies, the Dbjects of our apprehension proved a squad of Arapahos, and they were accordingly allowed to come into camp. -One of our visitors happened to be tlie owner of the two horses we had found, which, as he stated, (having described them minutely,) had ■trayed from his village, some six miles distant ; he then enquired of us if we had seen them. Here was a dilemma ; should we deny the fact, an^ run the risk of being caught in a falsehood ? or should we confess and abide the consequences ? Our commandant decided upon the latter course; but, in 80 doing, liad resort to an artful duplicity to bear upon the finer feebngs of the Indian, and replied : " My warriors had suffered long for lack of food. Three suns had sunk behind the mountain, and not one morsel bad entered their mouths to give them strength for travel. In their distress they enquired of the Great Spirit, and He showed them the lost animals of my brother. "My warriors were not slow to receive the welcome gift. The flesh of the younger one hatli caused us to bless the Good Spirit ; the other is with our own medicine nlogs, that my brother may search for it no longer." The owner; on hearing this, looked very sorrwful. Tiie colt had been a favorite of his squaw and children. In a moment, however, he arost, end, extendmg his hand to the commandant, exclaimed : " My heart is good. My white brother did well to receive the gift of th« Good Spirit, that his warriors might eat." Commandant. But tlie young medicine-dog of my brother was the b^^ JDlfCnON FORMED, *15 loved of his wife and little ones. What will he that I give him so thej sorrow not? Indian. Now, ray heart blesses the pale face. If he would bestow his gifts, what better couU I receive at his hand than a small present of tobao- co, that my pipe may be liiied to the undying friendship of him and his people. A few pieces of tobacco were accordingly given, and the good-hearted Indian, after shaking hands with eacli one of our party, took lua hcrse and ieparted to his village. Where, let me ask, do we find, in civilized countries an instance of nobk generosity equal to that of the poor savage ? The Arapaho village, as we learned from our visitors, had been camped m the vicinity several days, for the twofold purpose of awaiting the Cuman- ches and catching wild horse?. This, by the way, reminds me of not hav- mg as yet described the manner of performing, the latter feat. In taking wild horses, two methods are resorted to, alike displaying con- siderable tact and ingenuity. (.)(' these the following is the most common : A large party of Indians, mounted on tiieir fleetest chargers, having dis- covered a band of tiiese animals, carefully approach from the leev/ard, scat- tering themselves to a distance of eight or ten miles along the course their intended captives are expected to run. This done, the chase is started at a given signal, by the nearest Indian, w'ho is relieved by the next in suc- cession, and he by the next, and so on (taking their cue from the strategy of wolves in their capture of the antelope) until these proud rangers of the prairie, exhausted by their long-continued and vain efforts to escape, cease to assert their native liberty, and fall easy prey to the lasso of their pursuers. Anotlier plan frequently adopted is, to erect a stout fence from side to side, between two impassable walls of rock. The unsuspicious band aie then so started as necessarily to be driven witJiin the enclosure, when tlieii ready pursuers, closing in upon the rear, take them without the trouble of a long chase. Great numbers of wild horses are annually captured by these means, which become domesticated in a very short time. But, as a general thing, they are less adapted to hard service than those reared in the ordinary -way, and are far more disposed to re-assert their birthright of freedom at the first opportunity that occurs. Our visitors communicated the important intelligence that a detachment of four hundred Mexicans had passed their village only two days previous, on its way to Arkansas ; which statement was further corroborated by cer- tain indications noticed in the trail. The enemy was evidently in pursuit of us, and, weak as vve were numerically, none expressed any other feeling than tliat of a willingness to meet him. From this camp, our course bore west-northwest for thirty or forty miles, during which distance we found no water, and suflered greatly from tie agonizing effects of thirst. One of our pack-horses, also, took the " stam- fjetfe," and ran off* with his entire load, consisting principally of ammun^' tion, and all our efforts to retake him proved abortive. About noon the succeeding day, we reached our destination* wktie a 816 lirrEI^SR THIRST. jnnetion wm formed, not. \vitii the army we had hoped to find, but with th« mere handfuJ who had parted from us a few weeks smce at the Arkansas. Discouragement and discontent were depicted upon the countenance of every one, as the lateness of the season admonished us of the extreme un- certainty of the arrival of expected reinforcements. The dreaded approach cf the uuraanches, tliose unsparing enemies of the Texans, of whom we had received reliable intelligence, far more tlian the proximity of four hundred Mexican troops, gave us just cause for apprehension. A council was held forthwith, to decide upon the course proper to be pursued. Pru- dence seemed to dictate an abandonment of our present position, — while the enemy were looking for us in anotlier quarter, we might steal a maich upon him in his own country. These suggestions gave tone to subsequent movements, and early in the morning of the day following we were under way. For ten or fifteen miles, our course continued up the dry sand-creek that had marked our place of rendezvous, and the night following was passed with a few lodges of Ara- pahoe, who were encamped at a small pool of water near a bluff bank of ■andstone. This rock exhibited many rude engravings upon its smooth side, repre- senting men, women, and cliildren, dogs, snakes, and hzards, with various i^er devices, — evidently the work of ancient artists in commemoration sf some remarkable «xicurrence connected with tlie former history of the fmimtry. I examined tiie sketch with deep interest, and felt as if glanchig at the (.kecure records of the greatness ^md glory of some extinct nation, writ- iiJa in a language, like itself, now no longer known. Our hunters, having accompanied the Indians to the cliase, soon after I... turned with a choice supply of fresli meat, and four woif pups. Tlie AJiUter had been taken by an Indian boy, tln-ee or four years old, who fsarlessly entered the den, during tiie absence of tlie dam, and bore away kiiir defenceless family in triumph. The next day saw us again en route. One of our men, having obtained £jrinission of tlie commanding officer, proceeded a short distance in ad- vuacc of tiic main party for the purpose of hunting. Not paying strict attention to the course proposed, he mistook liis way, and, despite our con- tinued efforts to sot him aright, could no longer be seen or heard of, and we were at lengtli reluctantly forced to give liim up. Continuing up the creek some two days, we found it ver}^ difficult to procure water, and were often compelled to dig for it in the sand to a depth of tliree or four feet. Fn)m this point, we bore south-southwest, and after more than a day and night's hard travelling, over an arid sand-prairie, favored by neither tree, iihrub, nor watercourse, we arrived at the head of a small affluent of the Cimarone, inducting us to tiie bewitcliing scenery of tiie thrice lovely val- ley that lay hmnured withui ita giant wafis. The fatigue of a forced march, combined witli the sweltering heat of ao aimom lornd ami by day and scorching winds by nighty in additioiB to th« PISCIUBGED FOR COWARDICE. 317 indescribable torments of burning thirst for nearly thirty hours, had rsn* dered us almost frantic with agony. What tongue can tell the sweetness of the draught that first greeted oui parched Ups, at the termination of this painful interval ? What mind can conceive the inestimable value of water, until destitution unfolds its re£d merits ? Hunger, one may forget in the sweet unconsciousness of sleep, or glut his appetite, meanwhile, upon the tasteless feasts of fancy, — but thirst, with- ering thirst, can never be forgotten while it continues,— -it will burn a.9 il to scorch the vitals and dry up the heart's blood ! Before leaving the sand-creek above alluded to, we passed several dimi nutive bottoms and vallons that assumed an air of fertility. In these, I noticed an abundance of the bread-root, and in the creek banks, two or three places gave indication of coal. The prevailing rock was sandstone and limestone. The country adjacent, with the exception of its being more tumulous, is much like the llanos peculiar to this region. On striking the Cimarone we contiued our march up its valley for som© three days, and camped for a sliort time, to make a c^che of our surplus baggage for the purpose of travelling with greater expedition. The day preceding, however, aflbrded two incidents worthy of noteu One was the re-appearance of our lost man, who, having found his way it) tills point, and knowing we must necessarily make it in our line of march, had been avv^aiting us For the past two days. He was hailed as one risen from the dead, and welcomed back to our midst. But the expulsion of three for cowardice almost immediately followed the re-accession of one. Considerable dissatisfaction had existed for some time, in reference to our plan of operations. Several of the company had openly talked of desertion, and were using their earnest endeavors to per- suade others to this course. As we approached the enemy's country, the spirit of insubordination showed itself with increased violence. The time and place, even, were pitched upon for raising the standard of rebellion against all orders and those who gave them. Affairs at length reached a crisis that loudly demanded a resort to some prompt measures to restore them to tlieir proper equilibrium — an example must be had. Accordingly the company was drawn up in line, when the articles sub- scribed to by each of its members were read. This done, the commanding officer addressed the malecontents in a few brief words, demanding which of those articles he had violated, — if neither, they were equally binding as at first ; — then, alluding to the rumors that had reached his ears from various sources, he stated his readiness to release any one requesting it from further obhgation, — but the discharge sliould be a dishonorable one, — a discharge for cowardice! " Yes," said he, " cowardice ! We are on the eve of entering the ene- my's country, and the hearts of some doubtless begin to fail them. Texas wants no cowards to fight her battles ! None but brave men and true, are worthy of that honor ! Now, I repeat it, if any timorous spirit, — anv pusil- lanimous heart, — any despicable poltroon, wislies his discharge, 1 stand ready to give it ; let him step one pace in advance from the ranks and as 27* 518 THE PURSUIT. knowledge himself a coward ! His name shall be erased from the mniter* rolL" At this amiouncement, three men stepped forward, and their names were severally repeated, as they received their discharge, accompanied by tbt cutting words, — " reason — cowardice /" After this the commanding officer again addressed them : " You are now dishonorably discharged, and, as sentenced, before high heaven, I pronomice you cowards. If either of you considers this sentence unjust, let him shoul- der his rifle and choose his own distance. I, stand ready to give him any satisfaction he may demand in reparation of his wounded honor. But, you shall pocket the disgrace. To-night you may stay with us» — to-morrow you must and shall leave. " And you, my brave comrades, who have clrosen to abide by that flag which has graced the triumphs of by-gone days, may you never desert it in the hour of danger. Look up vv-ith hope, and as you gaze upon its bright star of lonely grandeur, consider it the harbinger cf success, — th« genius of victory." The next morning, the three faint-hearted volunteers accordingly left camp, reducing cur little number to twenty-one; — a lean force, ti-uly, for an expedition so hazardous. Yet none flinclied at the thiclt array of antici- pated dangers. A\\ v/ere ready and anxious for the encounter. The above summary proceeding completely effected its designed object, at least for the present, and reduced the turbulent spirits to the wholesome restraints of discipline. CHAPTER XXXI. JMoxican camp. — Pursuit. — Advance upon Mora. — Enemy discovered. — Country be tween the Rio de las Animas and Mora ; its picturesque beauty. — Admirable point of observation. — Fortified po.sition. — Battle of the pass; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, a.nd number of killed, wounded and prison ws. — Council of war.— Prisoners released. — Message to Amijo. — Return march.— Mexican army. — Attacked, and results of action. — Mexican bravery. — Retreat. — Cross tlie Table Mountain. — New sjieoies of wild onions. — March down the de las Animas. — Discouragements accumulate. — Disband. — Sketch of factions. — Texan prisoners, — Arrival of reinforcements. — Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and prisoners. — Retreat of Amijo. — " Stampede."— Frightful encounter with the Cu- manches and Kuyawas. — Discharge of troops. — Affair with Capt. Cook. — SuireO' der to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. — Return to Texas. — Journey it tlM Platte. — Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. — Feasting at camp»— Crows' eggs. — Lateness of season. — Snow-storm in June. — An Ind'an fort.— Serio- •Dinico adventure with a wolf. — hidians.— Song of the night-bird. FaoM C&che Camp we resumed our march, and, on the fourth day sub- ■equent, struck the Taos trail at the crossing of the de las Animas >— Aence, continuing up tlie river about forty miles, we came to a place r»» •mtly occupied by a detachment of Mexicans. After a careful FORTIFIEB POSITION. *10 don, we became satisfied that it had been some sixty cavalry, who wej then doubtless awaiting our advance at no great distance ; and, from a} pearances, not more ^an three days had elapsed since its evacuatioi Feeling ill-disposed to try the patience of our enemy by keeping him in to long a suspense, we immediately started in pursuit. The route led by a rough pass over a spur of the Toas Mountain! which heads the iierras templadas southwest of the Ciniarone, into a prairLa rangiog from east to west, forty-five or fifty mites long and thirty or mora broad, and skirting the three principal streams that unite to form the Colo rado. From this point it continued over another spur of the mountain chain into a valley some ten miles broad, ranging from north to south and intersected by the trail from Taos to the Santa Fe road, striking the latter near the Waggon Mound,* — thence, for about twenty-five miles, across a spread of high prairie, (quite rough and undulating, with frequent hills assuming a mountainous character,) to a considerable creek, four or five miles southeast of the town of Mora. At this point our scouts reported the enemy as occupying a fortified camp, which commanded the only feasible jass leading to tlie adjoining settlements. Upon the reception of this ijiteliigerice we withdrew to a de- serted ranche and encamped for the night, in order to obtain, if possible, more certain information relative to his position and force. The country between the de las Animas and this place, as a general thing, gave indications of a good soil, but v.^as quite arid, pariicularly the prairie skirting the head branches of the Colorado. The hills and mountaini were less sterile than tho^e farther east. They also aiforded an abundance of timber, consisting of pine, oak, cedar, and pinion. The creek bottoms embraced considerable quantities of excellent land, though but sparsely timbered. The mountains to the right towered majestically to an altitude of ten or twelve thousand feet, opposing their snowy crests in stern defiance to the heat of a summer's sun. Toward the close of our march, the landscape disclosed a scene of ro mantic beauty and grandeur. Mingled among the pleasing diversity of mountain, hill, dale, and lawn, vegas and llanos^ forests and prairies, hert and there a small lake mirrored forth its bright waters, swarming with innu- merable water- fowl, decorated by broad fiov.ery banks, and shut in by rug- ged highlands and rocky clifis, that seemed like some fairy's home, where enchantment held Nature's self in spell-bound admiration. Trie creeks and valleys of this section were also enclosed by abrupt banks, that sometimai protruded their precipitous walls to the very water's edge, and then again expanded to give place to the grass, fruits, and flowers of mimic Edens. The prevailing rock appeared to be gray granite, ferruginous sandstone, and limestone. Game was ratlier scarce, and consisted principally of buf- Jalo, deer, and bear. As a whole, this entire region may be considered as admirably adapted * This mound is a singular natural elevation in the form of a covered wanon, ■Murthe road from the United States to Santa Fe,— about fifty miles south ofl^^ 820 BATTLE OF THE PASS. to grazing purposes, and, were it not for its ariditj^ might be cultivated tr a considerable extent. The men sent to reconnoitre returned about midnight, but had succeeded in obtaining no satisfactory information of the enemy's position, owing to the darkness and their ignorance of the topography of the country. How- ever, they reported having discovered a point overlooking his camp, from which our whole force might watch his movements, screened from his ob- servation by a dense thicket of pines, and recommended it for our occupancy the ensuing day. Accordingly, in the morning orders were given to thai effect ; and, after a march of four or five miles, covered by an unbroken forest of pine and cedar, we arrived at the place designated, and encamped almost within speaking distance of the enemy. No point could be more admirably situated for our purpose. The gradua. acclivity by which we had advanced, studded with pine, hemlock, and pin- ion, led to the summit of a high ridge, bounding a broad valley upon its opposite side with vast piles of perpendicular rock, several hundred feet in altitude. Tiirough this valley a large creek traced its way, graced by oc- casional groves of cottonwood and willow. In one of these, appeared the Mexican encampment. So matchless was our position, by aid of a spy-glass we could observe his every movement without incurring the risk of being ourselves discov- ered. ^ A mere glance revealed the true state of affairs. The hostile force, con- sisting of some sixty strong, completely commanded the only entrance into the valley from the east, and was otherwise so advantageously posted as to render an immediate attack extremely hazardous. We accordingly awaited the cover ot night for further operations, and contented ourselves meanwhile with watching the unsuspecting foe. Our plan was to storm the Mexican camp and force a passage into the adjoining town, where we expected to encounter another detachment, and, after defeating it, make good our retreat before a sufficient reinforcement could be rallied to oppose us. Soon after sundown, arrangements being completed, we commenced our march. A detour c^ four or five miles led us to the head of a narrow and circuitous defile, marking the entrance to the valley ; winding our way through which silently, in a few moments we were in the immediate vicinity of the enemy. Here dismounting, the company was drawn into line, and the plan of attack communicated to each, as follows : three men, mounted upon fleet horses, were to dispose of themselves, if possible, in such a manner as to prevent an escape, while the remainder, in two divisions, (the one headed by the Col. commandant and the other by the first heutenant,) commenced a sumultaneous attack at different points. Orders were given to scale the enemy's breastwork, seize his arms, and demand his surrender, — but not to fire a shot, unless in case of resistance or an attempt to escape ; and, even then, to avoid all unnecessary effusion of blood. Thus disposed , we advanced to tlie charge ; — but a new difliculty here arose. The creek which, from our high point of observation during the day , had appeared only a diminutive stream, now presented its l^oad bu*. ATPAIR OF THB GAF. 921 fince, with a current of swift and deep water, while a steep bank upon the other side showed ^the enemy at its very verge. Nothing daunted we plunged in, and, alnfe)st as soon, gained the opposite shore. Ascending the bonk we attracted the notice of the sentinels, and received tlie challenge: " Quienes veniren ?" — who comes ? * Que dijo ?" — what do you say ? " Quienes veniren, carraho ?" At this a rush was made upon the challengers, who were almost instantly disarmed, and our whole party, leaping into camp, gave to the enemy the first intimation of its presence. " Munchos Tajanos ! " — exclaimed one, as the astonished Mexicanf snatched their arms. "Si, munchos Tajanos.— Quieron los scoupetas !" — ^was the reply, as we sprang to prevent them. Here a smart struggle ensued, which resulted in the defeat of the enemy with a loss of five killed, four wounded, and eighteen prisoners, — the re- mainder having escaped despite our efTorts to prevent it, — but aU the camp equipage fell into our hands, with seventy-two head of horses and mulea. Among the arms taken were two or three pieces that had belonged to the Texan Santa Fe expedition of the fall of '41. A council was now held to decide upon the expediency of proceeding immediately to the neighboring town. A majority at first were tavorabie to the proposition ;— but some objected, and urged the imprudence of weak- ening our force by a division, as we should either be necessitated to do, in that event, or relinquish the advantages already gained, — ^and, further, the enemy, being aware of our approach, was doubtless prepared to oppose a dangerous resistance, such as would be attended with great risk of life on our part, without securing any possible benefit in its result. The latter reasons influenced the decision, and orders were accordingly given to with- draw from the scene of action. In the interim the wounded had been carefully attended to, and, as we were about to leave, the prisoners were all set at liberty, with these words : " You are now free. Bury your dead, and remember in future how vain it is to resist the arms of Texas. Tell Amijo, your General, the Texans are men. and not wild beasts. They never kill an unresisting enemy, — they never kill a prisoner of war. He has done both, — but let him beware how he does it again, for the lives of ten Mexicans shall be the forfeit fw each ofl^ence." All things being arranged for a retrograde movement, we were promptly under way upon our return march to the Cimarone. The route led wi&iin ten or twelve miles of the Waggon Mound, at which pomt a largo number of dark-looking objects appeared, but so indistinctly we were una ble to determine their nature ; — these, as we subsequently learned, were a body of Mexican troops, numbering seven hundred and fifty men. Continuing our course, about noon we made camp at a gap in the moun- tain ridge, lacing from the west the head branches of the Colorado. The sectinels were cautiously posted, two upon the summit in the rear, and two witli the horses in front, and express orders given to them not to leave their stations until reheved, and to give immediate notice of the ap- . pearancr itf any suspicioiui object The remainder of the party were kmb A RETREAT. buiily occupied, some, in preparations for dinner, and others in making amends for a niglit of wakefulness. ^j^ In fatit, each cne conducted himself apparently witn as little concern as though it were inipossible that a Mexican could be found this side of the halls of Montezuma. Participating in this general feeling of security, and anxious to enjoy the relaxations of camp, in a brief intervel the sen- tinels deserted their posts and mingled among the loungers. This remissness was first noticed by a private; who hurriedly enquired. " Where is the guard ?" Scarcely were the words spoken, when another exclaimed, " There go our horses 1" The latter announcement aroused all hands — but only in time to witness our whole cavallard under full headway before a small party of Mexican cavalry, while at the same instant a brisk fire was opened upon. ns4rom the rear, and the dusky forms of the enemy appeared both right and left ; thus we had the mortification to find our little band surrounded by a superior force. Orders were given to dislodge the foe, and occupy his position in the rear. At the v/ord " c/targe," our dauntless partizans, with a shout, rushed up the steep hill-side and drove the panic-stricken Mexicans before them, who fled with the utmost precipitancy in all directions, throwing away their blankets, robes, arms, and even clothes, to aid them in their hurried escape. So great was their consternation, in less than fifteen minutes not one re- mained in sight, either far or near. On examining the premises, v/e found fifteen or twenty saddles, with a mule, which they had likewise abandoned, — but only two half-jaded animals told the remnants of tjie noble cavallard of more than eighty head that had grazed around us scarcely thirty min\ites before ; a thing of itself equivalent of a defeat. What could twenty-one. footmen do in an open prairie opposed by hun- dreds of cavalry, able at any time to choose their own place and mode of attack? The issue was quite apparent, — we must retreat. In an advan- tageous position, surrounded by game, and acquainted with the topography of the country, we might hold out against a force of thousands ; but it would be presumption to think of either maintaining our present ground or advanchig upon the foe. Preparations were therefore immediately commenced for acting upon the only prudent alternanve now left. Each man selected for himself a blanket, or robe, which, with such other necessaries as he could conveniently carry, was bound in the form of a knapsack and strapped to his shoulders; our animals were then heavily laden with provisions, and the remaining luggage (consisting of arms tak§n from the enemy, saddles, robes, blan- kets, knives, &c.,) committed to the flames ; the value of property thus destroyed, amounted to several thousand dollars. It was a melancholy thing to witness this wanton waste; yet such is the custom of war under like circumstances. Toward sundown we took up our line of march, each one on foot with his shouldered pack, in every appearance illustrating the soldier's return "from the war !" In the above manner we trudged along, bearing a course due east, till the •Tening of the third day, which, brought us to the base of the table moun* COMPANY DISBAIfDED. 826 tain at the head of the Cimarone,— having discovered the enemy's Bcouts hovering in the distance on two or three occasions during the interval. The day following we crossed the mountain, upon whose summit was a beautiful plateau, some ten miles in width and of unknown length. The soil gave every evidence of fertility, and was well watered. I noticed a number of strawberry vines — the first I had seen in the country, as well as a profuse array of floral loveliness. A considerable lake also appeared, whose banks were of perpendicular rock measuring a descent of fifteen or twenty feet ; while on its shady side a pile of snow bade de- fiance to the heat of summer, and looked pleasingly strange amid the sur- rounding verdure. After a lengthy search, we finally found a place of descent upon the opposite side of the mountain, which led us into the valley of the extreme left hand fork of the Rio de las Animas. The bottom of this stream, as it emerged from the mountains, disclosed a soil of extraordinary fertility. Among its indigenous productions I noticed a spread of fifty acres or more, so densely covered with onions that hundreds of bushels might be gathered in a short time. This plant was of a different kind from any I ever before saw. Its color was white, size about equal to a pigeon's egg, and appearance much like that of the com- mon onion ; but it had flag-shaped stalks, and was much less offensive in taste and smell than is natural to this species of roots. Continuing down the valley of this creek, we struck the de las Animas on the third day subsequent, and on the seventh, arrived at the egress of that stream from its frightful canon, nearly opposite Bent's Fort on the Arkansas. From this place an express was sent to the latter point to ob- tain, if possible, some information relative to the expected reinforcement from Texas, and, also, in regard to the movements of the enemy. The next day, however, the messenger returned with a report so far from encouraging, that it served still more to depress our fast-sinking hopes. A general des})ondency seemed to weigh fike an incubus upon the minds of both officers and men. Our inability to hold out under existing circum- stances was too apparent, as the sphere of operations embraced a circuit of five hundred miles or more, over deserts and mountains, that would waste us away with fatigue, watchings, hunger and thirst, by long and dreary marches to be performed on foot, through a country swarming with savage and half-civilized foes. A council was accordingly held, which re- sulted in the almost unanimous decision to disband. Discharges previously made out, bearing date May 24th, were now pre- sented to each one, absolving him from all further connection with the Texan army, and, on the morning of the 29th inst., our little band separa^ ted in tliree parties ; one of these, consisting of four men, left for the can- on of the Cimarone ; another, headed by Col. Warfield, started for Texas ; anu the remainder commenced their return journey toward the Platte river. The story of the former of these fractions, so far as relates to the diffi- culties between Mexico and Texas, is briefly told. Our adventurers bear- ing for the Ciraarono reached their hoped-for Elysium; but, soon aftei, iMviag ikUea into an ambuscade of one hundred ass4 thirty Mttxisaii troofii 28 9» HAKD nGBTINQ JJXD RETERSEi. were taken prisoners, and, in a few days subsequent, found themselvei is irons and snugly stowed away in the calaboose at Santa Fe ; while there, one of them died from bad treatment, and the others would have been shot had not the dread of Texan vengeance prevented the deed. Succeeding tvents, however, effected their liberation. The party accompanying Col. W. fell in with the expected reinforcements from Texas, near the Crossing of the Arkansas, and again submitted itself Id the fortune of war. This force consisted of one hundred and eighty vol- ■nteers, under the command of Col. Snively, an old veteran of the Texai revolution. Soon after, a detachment of forty Texans, beaded by Col. Warfield, en- countered the advance guard of the enemy, numbering one hundred picked men. The approach of the latter had been observed irom an eminence, when the Texans were drawn up under cover of a small sand-bank, near a creek, (arroyo,) awaiting to intercept him. Ignorant of tlie presence of danger, the Mexicans were pressing on at a rapid rate, till brought to a sudden halt by an opposing force within half rifle-shot. "Quienes ?" demanded the Texan officer. " Mexicanas. Quienes sons uste ?" replied the commandante. " Tajanos," returned the Texan, through .his interjjreter. "We have come to fight, and shall tight unless you surrender. But, that you may know with whom you have to deal, we give you thirty minutes to decide whether to fight or surrender. If you choose the former, a signal from your sword will announce the answer." A brief discussion ensued among them upon this summons. The Mexi- cans were disposed to surrender, but the Pueblo Indians, of whom fifty or more were included in the party, scornfully refused to accede to any ■uch proposition, declaring tliat they had come to fight, and not to surrender like women upon the first appearance of an inferior enemy. At lengtli, a chief ended tlie dispute by advancing to the front fine and giving the pre- scribed signal. The onset of the Texans was terrific beyond description. The enemy's line was instantly broken, and the cry of" misericordia T' (mercy) sounded upon all sides. The contiict lasted scarcely five minutes; but, though short, it was decisive and bloody. Twenty-two of the enemy were killed, thirty wounded, and the remain- der taken prisoners, with the exception of one who succeeded in aflfect- JBg hie escape. Not a Texan was hurt. General Amijo, who at this tin.'e lay encamped at the Cimarone, forty or fifty miles distant, with an army of seven hundred JMexicans, on receiving intelligence of the defeat of the flower of his invincibletf like other examples equally illustrious, felt his courage "ooze out ^t his fingers' ends," and, not being disposed to encounter such dangerous enemies, ordered an imiueJiate retreat and fell back on Santa Fe. Col. Snively was on the point of marching in pursuit, when an incident occurred which altered the whole aspect of affairs, and finally frustrated all the purposes of the expedition. This was efiectcd by a war-party of eighty Kuyawa and Cumanche Indians, who succeeded in stampeding » krge band of the army horses. ARMY SURRENDERED TO U. S. DRAGOONS. 527 They were followed by eleven men under the command of Col. War field, and, after a running fight of two or three miles, an action was brought about. As they halted, Col. W. ordered his men to dismount and form a breastwork with their horses, which was promptly done ; — meanwhile the Indians, numbering sixty or more, had closed around, with whoops and yells, and other demonstrations of their expected triumph. A discharge from the Texans brought four of their warriors to the ground, and wounded six more. This broadside was returned through a shower of arrows, and repeated by the intrepid eleven in a pistol-round, when three more of the assailants fell, and twice that number felt the eflects of an unerring aim. Hereupon the Indians hastily retreated with their wounded, leaving seven of their number to grace the scene of ac- tion. Not one of the Texans was injured, and only one of their horses killed and three wounded. Further pursuit, however, Vv^as abandoned, and the captive horses were left to honor the service of their new masters. A loss so inopportune caused the postponement of furtiier operation! for the present, and, in connection with other difficulties, created so much discontent in the minds of some, that one entire company declared its in- tention of returning to Texas, and requested its immediate discharge. An emergency of this kind, not having been provided for in the terms of en- listment, left the commanding officer no other alternative than to accede to a measure he had no power to prevent, and the demands of the disaf- fected were accordingly complied with. The army was thus reduced to eighty effective men, which made it necessary to release the prisoners as yet retained in custody. These during their detention had been treated with great kindness, and their wounded carefully attended to by the company's surgeon ; on their re- lease twelve horses were allowed for their conveyance, while the other prisoners were furnished with four rifles and a quantity of ammunition, two running horses, and enough provisions to serve for several days. Thus provided, they were set at liberty with the pithy message : "Bid your countrymen learn, from this example, how to treat prisoners of war !" Soon after.the events above related, the arniy took up a position on the Arkansas river, a few miles below the Santa Fe road, for the purpose of procuring a supply of provisions from the vast quantities of buffalo afford- ed by that vicinity. While encamped here, hunting parties were al- lowed to cross into the United States territory in quest of game, — not in a national capacity, but as mere private individuals. On one of these occasions the hunters were discovered and pursued by two companies of United States Dragoons, under Capt. Cook, on their way to escort the Santa Fe traders as far as the Crossing of the Arkansas. The chase was couLinued to the liver bank opposite the Texan camp, when a conference was requested, and the commanding officers of both armies met, as was supposed, for an interchange of mutual civilities ; but Buch proved not to be tiie case. Captain Cook, on the part of the Americans, contended that the Texans had invaded the United States territory, and that they even now tcenpied a position within its limits ; — his duty was plain. He must ie- 828 COUNTRY FROM THE ARKANSAS TO BEAVER. maud, and, if necessary, enforce their immediate surrender. Thirty mi- nutes only would be allowed for a decision. Cols. Snively and Warfield urged many arguments to prove the injustice •f his demand and the fallacy of the premises upon which it was based, but all to no purpose. The Captain was inflexible. Meanwhile, the American troops had crossed the river, and were drawn up in front of the Texans ready for action. It was vain for a force- of eighty men to attempt holding out against one hundred and sixty United States Dragoons, backed by two field-pieces. Retreat, too, was impracti- cable, and they accordingly surrendered their arms, upon Texan territory in compliance with the unjust demands of the American commander. Forty of the prisoners were escorted to Fort Leavenworth, and the re- mainder set at liberty, and left with only twehe rifles to fight their way back to Tex;:s, througji the heart of tho Cumanche country. They had, how- ever, previously managed to secrete a quantity of arms and ammunition, and, in a few minutes subsequent to their release, were fully equipped and ready to meet a Mexican force of eight times their number. Col. Wai-field was elected commander of the newly organized company, who immediately set out in quest of the enemy. But here a new obstacle presented itself; — the whole country was swarm- ing with Cumanche and Kuyawa Indians ; so much so that a further pro- secution of the campaign must inevitably prove most disastrous. This circumstance led to the abandonment of the purposes of the expedition, and the scanty remnants of the army engaged in it took up their line of march for Texas, where they arrived during the month of July following, wasted by toil and suffering, as well as by repeated conflicts with a relentless savage foe. Thus ended the second attempt to subjugate the province of Santa Fe to the government of the new-born Republic of Texas. A few days preceding this grand finale^ a small party, including myself, commenced its journey to the mountains adjoining the head waters of the Platte river. We were all on foot, and suffered greatly Irom fatigue and thirst during our dreary march over the plains of burning sand and withered stubble that impeded our progress for some distance. Crossing the Arkansas at a point several miles below Bent's Fort, we proceeded up one of the numerous dry creeks finding their discharge into that stream from the north, and, on the fifth day subsequent, arrived at a grove of Cottonwood, upon a watercourse near the eastern extremity of Sie ** Divide," and in the immediate vicinity of several tributaries of both the Platte and Kansas rivers. Here the abundance of buffalo induced four of UB to remain for a short time, while the others continued their course. The intermediate country from the Arkansas to this place, presents an uninviting aspect, and, tliough not naturally sterile, is rendered repulsive from its extreme aridity. The creeks are most of them mere beds of sand, entirely destitute of water, except at brief intervals when their percolated currents are shown in brackish pools, soon again to inhume themselves in the willing earth. Th«re is rarely a tree in the whole distance, which circumstance add* COMICAL ABTEirnmi. §29 ■nch to the cheerlessness of its solitude. A general scarcity of rock also prevails, and the only specimens I noticed were exhibited in the banks of watercourses, and consisted of slate and fossiliferous hmestone (formed of an extinct species of sliell-fish, principally bivalves.) The soil in many E laces might be called fertile, and, were it not for lack of moisture, could e turned to good account for agricultural purposes. The landscape is generally undulating, disclosing at the north ana north- east broken ridges of hills, which were now and then surmounted by scat- tering pines. The buffalo having letl; the vicinity soon after our arrival, we again moved camp eight or ten miles, to Beaver creek, an affluent of the Platte, where we remained for fifteen or twenty days. Our stay at this place was one continued series of feasting, as we lacked nothing of all the varied delicacies procurable in a country abounding with game. But one item in our entertainment was indeed a novelty, — viz . crows' eggs. Almost eveiy tree and bush, skirting the creek at intervals for miles above and below, had been appropriated to the use of the countless Bwarms of crows that populated the surrounding prairie. Sometimes four or five nests of these birds might be seen upon a single tree. On two or three occasions I obtained from six to ten dozen of eggs in the course of an hour. These, whether boiled, roasted, or fried, were found quite an ac- cepte,ble addition to our bill of daily fare. The climate of this region is evidently less mild, and its warm season much shorter, than is common to other places in the same latitude. It was now the middle of June, and yet the wild fruits, currants, cherries, and plums, were only in blossom, and all other kinds of vegetation assumed the appearance of recent spring. Indeed, the day succeeding our arrival, enow fell to a depth of three or four inches, and remained upon the ground for several hours. Whether such occurrences are common, 1 have not the necessary information to decide. In our excursions after game, the remains of an Indian fort had been discovered in a small grove, a short distance below camp, which received the honor of our subsequent occupancy. A few hours devoted to repairs rendered it a complete shelter from either wind or rain ; and, still farther to enhance its conveniences, we succeeded in digging a small well adjoin- ing the entrance, thus securing a most welcome supply of cool water. Here revelling in the midst of plenty, with nothing to think of or care for but our own personal comforts, we had no mind to exchange our sitaation for the fatigues of war and the drudgery of camp-duty. Several incidents also occurred in the interim to enliven the scene and reheve its otherwise dull monotony. On one occasion a strolling wolf, venturing too near camp, received the contents of my rifle and instantly fell. Supposing the shot to be a fatal one, I advanced and seized him by the tail with the design of taking his skin. But the creature, having been only stunned by a neck wound, now re- vived in full strength, and, enraged at his rough treatment, called into ex- ercise the utmost tension of his energies to afford a bitter sample of the fierceness of wolfine yengeance. Here was a qaandarr— to rt Un^aifli 28* S80 THE NOCTURNilL WARBLER. the hold would have been to invite a doubtful collision — to allow him an instant's time for turning upon rae, must have proved equally perilous h- the only resource was to retain my grasp with twofold energy, and run backwards as fast as possible, which I did, pulling the struggling beast after me, — now twisting this way, now that way, in vain effort to attack, —and growling and snapping his teeth with all the ferocity of his sav age nature. What v/ould have been the result of this strange adventure, it is hard to tell, were it not that one of my camp-mates hastened to the rescue, and ,with a club despatched his wolfship At any rate I had no curiosity to Bubrait the question to a further test. With us tbe practice of early rising was remembered only as the whim of visionary theorists, and this important item in the routine of daily du- ties, was often postponed to an unreasonable hour. Once we came very near paying dearly for the indulgence. The sun had toJd more than two hours of his daily round, and only one of our number had doffed the drow- siness of sleep and betaken himself to an eminence to scan the surround- ing solitude. Here the first object that met his gaze was a war-party of mounted savages, advancing upon him at full charge. He had scarcely time to reach camp and give the alarm, when the whole troop came pouring in upon all sides with the rapidity of a torrent, making the air resound with their terrific yells. Seizing my arms I was the first to meet the assailants, and, levelling at them, made signs that an advance would be at their peril. Upon this they recoiled, and shouted at the top of their voices, *' Amigos ! Arapahos .'" accompanied with the signs of friendship and their nation. Satisfied of the truth of these declarations, we permitted them to coma up, and, in a few minutes, all were quietly seated, and the " pipe" per- forming its tireless rounds. Our boldness in daring to offer a resistance greatly excited their sur- prise, and the more so, as we had only four rifles, while they bad many arrows, and were more than ten times our number. An old chief, after listening to their remarks, replied : " My people must not deceive themselves. The pale faces are brave and kill their enemies a long way off. Those " said he, pointing to a brace of pistols, " would have laid many of my warriors low, after the medicine-irons had spoken their death-words. The Great Spirit has taught the pale-face how to fig'ht." Our visitors had at first supposed us a war-party of Pawnees, and came with the full design of securing a scalp-dance. Had they caught us nap- ping, without doubt our own lives would have been substituted for those of their enemies. In a few hours the motley crew again resumed their course, and left us to the undisturbed enjoyment of our sequestered retreat, thankful indeed to be free from their presence. In addition to the howling of wild beasts and the hooting of prairie-owls by night, the locality afforded other music to sooth the hours of glumber. A bira of uiiknown species had built her nest in the boughs of a cotton- LOfT. 831 wood that expanded directly over our heads, and devoted her maternal care to the sustenance of her fledgelings. But her unwearied industry by day less commanded our admiration than the sweet melody of her nocturnal warbiings. Soon as the " pointers " told the " noon of night," her song commenced in all its variations, like the soft breathings of an angel's lute, nor ceased till the gray of morning broke from the empurpled east. Often have 'I listened half dreamingly to the bewitching notes that mingled with the harsh discord of the wilderness around me, and fancied myself guarded by celestial spirits against the assaults of harm. With such kindly thoughts, who might not mount in his slumbers on the wings of imagination, arid step from star, as 'mid the changeless realma of bliss. CHAPTER XXXll. Lost. — Night on the Prairie. — Head of the Kansas river. — Minerals. — Country.— Gold. — Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. — Indians. — ^Join the Arapa< hos. — Moving village. — Country between Beaver creek and the Platte.' — Caiion. — Reach Fort Lancaster. — Fortune bettered. — News from the States. — Murder. — Ex- traordinary instances of human tenacity to life. — Arrival of Indians. — ^Theft. — Chyerme outrage.— Return of Oregon emigrants.—" Old Bob," and his adventures.— A " Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicine-making. — Indian oath. — Jaunt to th« mountains. — Mountain scenery. — Camp on Thompson's creek. — Wild fruits. — Con- centration of valleys. — Romantic view. — A gem in the moimtains. — Grand river pass. — Salt lakes. — Astonishing scope of vision. — ^The black-tailed deer. — Peculi« arity in horses. — Remarkable natural fortification. — Return. — Travelling by guesg. Owi day, on leaving camp in quest of game, I carelessly travelled till near sundown, without success. The hills, hollows, and ravines which intersected my way and continually changed its bearings, so' completely bewildered me, that, as night shut down upon tiie cheerless expanse, I found myself far away from any suitable camping-place, and alone amid the realms of loneliness. Thus conditioned, I was forced to submit to circumstances, and accordingly accepted of such lodgings as nature af- forded. My lonely and dangerous situation, with the thrilling sensations expe- rienced during the interval, gave birth to the following lines, which, by aid of a rude pencil formed from a bullet, were next morning traced upon a •mall scrap of paper. I submit them to the reader, not that they possesi any intrinsic merit, but because they will enable him to derive some £uik idea of the terrific wildness and beauty of the surrounding scenes. SKI mQKT ON THB PAiURffi. NIGHT ON THE PRAIRIE. I. The Babie garb of darkness clothes the land, And twilight's sickly hue bids day farewell ; The prairie's vast expanse on either hand Marks solitude's domain. O'er hill and dell, And wide-extended plain, I cast my eyes, To view, perchance, some grove or fav'ring stream. And hie me thitherward while yet the gleam Of day's fast-failing Hght bepaints the skies With tints scarce seen, — tor there I'd seek reposer* But for them look in vain ; so here, alone, Wearied and worn, I sit me down and close My tiresome wanderings, — nor bate to own The chilling thrill of terror o'er me creeps, And from my mind ail thoughts of slumber keeps I U. Oh, Solitude ! First-born of Night ! 'Tis here Thy reign is undisputed ! Here no noise Of human feet doth greet thy hst'ning ear, — Save ch?nce as mine, or savage want enjoys His arms at chase or rage at bloody war ! — Here haunts the beast of prey. The starved wolfs howl In ceaseless conceit swells ! The midnight owl Joins in his dolesome lay ; — the raven's caw Loud mingles with the panther's yell, — and then The hoarse-toned bison grunts his bass, and makes Thy dismal realm more drear to lonely men. iEolus here his fresh-form'd wind awakes, And marks its speed unchecked ; whose whistling motn O'er tliy domain makes loneliness more lone ! III. My thoughts, now kindred to the scene, arise In hurried flight, whose hideous aspects wake. Full quick, imagination's sleepless eyes. That conjure up such frightful forms as shake The boldest hearts with dread. In every herb Of prouder growth, — whose prongs the sweeping blajtt Hath taught to move, — some foe of savage cast Appears and threatens ill, as if to curb The onward progress of the god of sleep : — (For here man sees his fellow man, unknown, As foe ; and, arm'd for fight, he minds to keep The strictest watch, lest, from advantage shown, He tempt unlucky war.) So hurriedly ^ tnatch my arms to fight each form I sea ? ntamv o!i tee p&AmiiL IV. Bat, whj thus fear ? Give place, ye visions diead ! Ye thoughts of boding danger, drearisome, Cease to oppress ! Is not the path I tread So by Omniscience mark'd, that perils come Not near, to even hurt a single hair, Without His wise permit ? Are not my days Securely meted out, and all mv ways So ffuarded, too, that Uironging dangers share No part in harm's advance or death's progreH Till all are told ? And can my vigilance, Fathered by childish fear, make more or less The given sum ? Cheerly, draw courage thenet, My cowering heart ; feel safety here. Give room To other thoughts, and chase these clouds of glooa V. Thus, banished fear, at reason's bid, I cast My willing gaze toward heaven. In every star That forms the sparkling crown of night, though fait In regions of unbounded space, so far As scarcely seen by mortal ken, — appears Some guardian angel, robed in light, to keep His ceaseless vigils o'er my coucb of sleep, Lest in my slumbering moments danger near To cut the thread of Ufe, and thus undo The purposes of God. The silver moon Sheds forth her radiance unconfined, and throvgh The desert wild to flower and herb gives boon, And decks each blade with dewy pearls, and pom Them on the earth, to cheer my waking hours. VL Nature's vast caravansera, above, Below, around, on either side, begirt With midnight's varied splendors, scenes I love, Becomes enchantment's self, while zephyrs sport The fragrance of the wild-flowers multiform, And greet my nostrils with their rich perfume, To ptease my senses. Thus my thoughts msn«e Their wonted course, and hush the passing storm Of fear. Alone ! Not lonely I. For here E'en loneliness companion proves to me. And solitude is company. My ear Drinks music from these savage sounds ; I see Amusements in these forms ; my heart's as ABd easy beats, as 'mid a city's throng ! 834 THE GOLD REGION. vn. To me thrice welcome then, ye prairies wild ! Midnight, and gloom, and solitude, ye please My restless fancy ! Welcome tlien your child ! — For here's my home. And so, with mind at ease, I will embrace my mother earth, and court The soothing power of sleep. The clear blue sky My canopy, the ground my bed, I lie Encurtain'd by the paie moon-beams, which sport Beside my lowly couch, and light the dew With mimic diamonds' glow — while flowers around My piliow'd head their willing incense strew, And the sweet dreaming bird anon doth sound Some isolated note of melody ! — Thus chamber'd here, may not kings envy me ? My return to camp the next day served to quiet the apprehensions that had been experienced on my account during the interim. This excursion took me some fifteen miles eastward, to the head waters of the Kansas river. The country in that neigliborhood wore a barren aspect, and was generally sandy and undulating. I noticed a kind of mineral substance, of a jetty lustrous appearance, which I took to be black-lead. I also remarked certain indications of gold, but whether this metal actually exists here I am unable to say ; yet true it is, the surface aflbrris large quantities of " gold blossom," and it is said also, that gold has been found in these parts. The region lying upon the head branches of the Kansas river is con- sidered very dangerous, — it being the war-ground of the Pawnees, Caws, Chyennes, Sioux, and Arapahos, — and hence comparatively Uttle is known of its character and resources. It is represented as quite sandy and Bterile back from the watercourses, and in many other places but Uttle better than a desert waste. The gold story alluded to in the preceding paragraph came lo me from various sources, in the following shape r Some twenty years since, while tlie Arapahos were at hostilities with ihe whites, a war-party of that tribe advanced against the Pawnees, led on by a noted chief, called " Whirlwind." Three only of them had guns, acd they soon expended their stock of bullets in shooting small game, there be- ing no bufl^lo upon the route. Finally, left without any thing to eat, they became discouraged, and a council was held to discuss the expediency of rehnquishing the expedition. Having seated themselves upon a small eminence, the question of return W3.a debated with great earnestness, — a majority being in the affirmative. But the head chief, " Whirlwind," bringing all his eloquence to bear upon the opposite side, at last obtained their consent to proceed. During the conference, several small pieces of a glittering yellow sub- stance were discovered upon the surface, which proved soft and easily worked into any shape. From these a supply of bullets was procured, %Dd, resuming their course, they soon after met the Pawnees,_with whom Whirlwind. — Page 334. JOIN ARAPAHOS. *87 they fought, and were victorious, — every bullet discharged killing an •nemy. Tills victory was so signal and complete, that the superstitious warriors attributed it solely to the medicine-doings of the yellow balls, — three or four of which were finally buried with the chief at his death. The only white man permitted to see them, describes them as having been precisely the color of brass, — very soft and heavy. Admitting that the story is true, * there are doubtless very rich mines of gold in tliis vicinity, that being the only metal assimilating brass in color. Previous to our leaving Beaver creek, an incident occurred showing the remarkable tenacity of life peculiar to bufialo. An old bull appeared in the distance, travelling at a rapid rate almost directly towards camp. Being in want of a re-supply of fresh meat, I seized my rifle and advanced to intercept him. Owing' to the unfavorable state of the wind, I was forced to make so long a shot that the ball fell som© two feet below tlie mark, and struck near the knee-joint of the fore leg, shivering it to pieces. Still, however, the animal kept on, with scarcely diminished speed, and held me a chase of three miles or more before I could overtake him to fin- ish the work. At length he was dispatched ; but, on butchering him, I was surprised to find a third bullet-wound, apparently three or four days old. The ball was full one-half the size of my own, and, incredible as it may seem, had penetrated the butt of the buffaloes heart, I could scarcely believe my own eyes, — yet such was the fact. The creature had survived a heart-shot for days, and then, with a broken leg, had held me a chase of three miles. Our final adventure at this camp, was with a party of Indians. Having discovered the latter, early one morning, and supposing thera Pawnees, we prepared for an encounter. The objects of our apprehension, mista- king us for the same, continued manoeuvring upon the adjoining hills the entire day, in such a manner as to lead us to conclude the whole country was filled with Indians. Toward sundown, after vainly endeavoring to procure an attendant, I armed myself and proceeded alone to the spot where they had been last seen, determined to discover, if possible, the nature and extent of the danger that awaited us. Here, a single warrior advanced to meet me, — giving signs of friendship and of his nation. In answer to the inquiry, why his party had acted so strangely, he said they had thought us enemies, and were afraid. He accompanied me to camp, and, soon after his companions came up , but, instead of the powerful war-party of Pawnees awaiting to slaugnter us by night, as our imaginations ha^ depicted, and their cunning move- ments led us to infer, they proved but three Arapaho warriors, tlu-ee squaws, • The country adjacent to the head branches of the Kansas river is but little known to the whites, who seldom visit it on account of its daiigeroiu nature. That Taiuable minerals are contamed in its soil is quite probable, and no doubt they will Im broHf ht to light upon due research. 29 838 PREVAILING ROCIL and two children. Our surprise at this laughable denouement was only equalled by their own. They announced themselves in search of the Arapaho village, and ex- pressed much pleasure at meeting with the whites. Our visitors having passed the night v/ith us, the next morning we yielded to iheir sohcitations, and set out v/ith them to the village, some eighteen miles distant, in a northwest direction. About noon we arrived at the place, and found six or seven hundred lodges of Arapalios, Chyennes, and Sioux, encamped in a large valley skirting a small affluent of Beaver creek. The village, being prepared to move, in a few moments succeeding our arrival, was en route for the Platte river. The spectacle was novel and imposing. Lodge followed lodge in successive order, — forming vast pro- cessions for miles in length. Squav/s, children, horses, and dogs, mingling in promiscuous throng, covered the landscape in every direction, and gave it the aspect of one dense mass of life and animation. Here a troop of gorgeously dressed and gaily painted damsels, ail- ra- diant with smiles and flaunting in conscious beauty, bestriding richly ca- parisoned horses, excited the admiration and commanded the homage of gallantry ; there a cavalcade of young warriors, bedaubed with fantast.c colors — black, red, vv^hite, blue, or yellow, in strict accordance with savage tau>i.e — habited in their nicest attire, swept proudly along, chanting their war-deeds in measured accents to tlie deep-toned drum ; and then another band of pompous horsemen scoured the spreading plain, in eager race to test the speed of their foaming chargers ; and, yet again, a vast army of mounted squaws, armed with tiie implements for root-digging, spread ikr and wide in search of the varied products of the prairie ; then, among the moving masy, passed slowly along the travees, conveying the aged, infirm, and helpless, screened from the heat of a summer's sun by awnings of skins, that beshaded their cradled occupants, — while immense trains of pacli-ani- mals, heavily laden with provisions and camp equipage, as they crowded amid the jogging multitudes, united to complete the picture of a travelling Indian village. Yielding to the request of our new friends, we proceeded with them ten or twelve miles further and passed the night in their lodge. Our route from Beaver creek led over a tumulous country, interspersed with valleys of a rich soil, and prolific in rank vegetation. The side-hills afforded large quantities of pomme blanc, and the prairies and bottoms a splendid array of choice floral beauties. The creeks disclosed wide, sandy beds, often dry and skirted by broad valleys which were passably well timbered. The principal ridges were not high, but surmounted by dense pine forests, with pleasant openings, smiling in all the loveliness of spring. Notwithstanding the scanty volumes of the streams, the country presents to the traveller the appearance of being well watered by frequent rains, while ever and anon a gurgling fountain strikes upon his ear with its soii music. Stratified rock is usually rare ; the only species noticed were limestone utd sandstone. I remarked a great abundance of silex and hon blen4 HUMAI^ TENACHT TO LITE. «39 witli some curious specimens of ligneous petrifactions. The only indica- tion of minerals observable, was that of iron and coal. The entire section from Beaver to Cherry creek posse.sses nearly the same geological and mineralological character, its indigenous produo tions are such as are common to the mountain prairies, and are found in equal abundance ; — -a remark which will also apply to its game. As a whole, perhaps two-thirds of it might be cultivated, to some extent, were it not for unseasonable frosts ; and all of it miglit be turned to good account for stock-raising. The next day we bade farewell to our Indian friends, (leaving behind us ane of our number, who chose to accompany them to tlie Fort,) and again launched forth upon the broad expanse. Bearing a course vvest-northweat, about noon of the second day we struck Cherry creek, some thirty-tive or forty miles above its mouth ;— thence, crossing the lofty plateaux, on the west, with two or three intervening creeks, toward evening of the third day we reached the Platte river at its exit from the mountains. Our intention was to enter the mountains and spend a few weeks in deer-hunting ; but, the river proving impassable, on account of high water, we were compelled to forego that purpose for the present, and accordingly started for Fort Lancaster to procure a re-supply of ammunition. Continuing down the Platte, on the third day wo reached our destination, and were kindly received, though humorously rallied upon our way-worn and forlorn appearance. Nor were we backward to join the laugh, occar sionaily retorting, when the jocose current set too strong against us, " Well, v/hat do you know about war ? — You've never been to Texas !" The 6th of July dated our arrival, — the glorious fourth having been spent in plodding over a broad prairie, on foot, with rifles upon our shoulders and packs upon our backs. By comparison, I concluded my fortune,had slight- ly improved since July 4th of the preceding year, which found me in a cheerless prairie, on foot, packing my bed, almost naked, witliout knife or gun, or having had a mouthfuU to eat for two days previous. Capt. Fremont, elsewhere spoken of, had just arrived from the States on an expedition to Oregon, ordered by tlie United Srates Government, and brought intelligence of an existing armistice between Mexico and Texas. Accom- panying his narty was one whom I recognized as an old acquaintance of other lands, the first and only one I had tlie pleasure of meeting with during my long sojourn in the country. July 1 1 ih, Witnessed tlie death of an old mountaineer at Fort Lancas- ter, who came to his end from the effects of a pistol wound received in a drunken frolic on the 4th. The ball entered the back about two inchea below the heart, severely fracturing the vertebree and nearly severing the spinal marrow. He lived just one week succeeding the occurrence, but meanwhile su^ fered more than the agonies of death. His body below the wound was en- tirely devoid of feeling or use from the first, and, as duath preyed upon him by piecemeal, he would often implore us with most piteous and heart-mel^ ing appeals kindly to ease his miseries by hastening his end. The muv' derer was left at large, and in two or three weeks subsequent accompani*^ Cs^pt. Fremont to Oregon. M« «*OU>BO&'' The above is tlie most remarkable exhibition of human tenacity to lift that ever came under ray personal observation ; I have, however, heard of instances far more extraordinary. The case of Ex-Governor Boggs, of Mo., in '41, who recovered from the effects of a vi^ound, that not only frac- tured his scull, but actually emitted particles of the brain, is doubtless well ' known ; yet another of like nature, still more wonderful in its details, oc- curred to an old French trapper, named Augustine Clermont, with whom I am well acquainted. Clermont, in an affray with a Spaniard, had been prostrated by a blow that fractured his scull in the ccciput. His antagonist then fell upon him and thrust the point of a knife into the brain repeatedly, and finally left him for dead. Soon after, he was found by his friends in this deplorable situation, who, on perceiving he yet breathed, kindly dressed his wounds, and bestowed upon him the attention his situation demanded, and in a short time he be* j came perfectly sound and hearty. \ July lith. The Indian village before spoken of, on its way in quest of buffalo, visited the Fort, and, as is customary on such occasions, the squaws and children made themselves busy in appropriating to their own us© Buch Uttle articles as came within their reach. I was minus a blanket through their artfulness, and several other individuals suffered equally with myself. Some six weeks afterward they returned, and again called at the Fort* when, recognizing my stolen blanket in the possession of a young warrior, I immediately took it from him. At first he' stoutly resisted, and the more 80 as several hundred of his tribe were present, — but, all to no purpose ; and he at length yielded, as he saw me on the point of enforcing my claims to it in a more feeling way, such as would doubtless have endangered his own personal safety. I remained at Fort Lancaster for two months or more ; and the several iniidents which occurred in the interim may be thus briefly summed up: The first in order was an outrage of the Chyennes, in cruelly murdering the young man with whom I had passed a portion of the preceding winte- upon Vasques' creek. The next was the appearance of a small party of emigrants, on their re- * turn to the States, — having become displeased with the management of the company then en route for Oregon. A third was tlie arrival of one of the four men who had left for the Cun- ^ arone at the first disbanding of the Texan volunteers, and were subsequent- ly taken prisoners by the Mexicans. After being incarcerated at Santa Fe for two or three weeks, they were finally hberated, with the exception of one, who had died in the interval. To- ward the last of their imprisonment, tJiey were treated kindly, owing to the exemplarv conduct of the Texans, as spoken of elsewhere. The fellow tnus introduced, responding to the name of " Old Bob," made himself quite conspicuous by his subsequent conduct. The gentleman in ^ charge at Fort Lancaster, pitying his deplorable condition, kindly afforded him employment at a liberal compensation, and Old Bob set to work fiutb- THE WICKED SHALL NOT GO UNPIJIflsmtD. ^41 fully. In the course of twelve or fifteen days, however, he improved the opportunity of stealing a rifle and ammunition, with wliich he absconded and set his face for the mountains. All that he now lacked to complete his equipment was a good horse, which deficiency seemed luckily made up by tlie discovery of one recently strayed from the Indians. " I must have him," said Bob. So, carelessly droppmg his rifle and pack, he commenced a fruitless effort to capture the erratic steed. For a while his success seemed almost certain ; but, after a tedious trial for several hours, he was finally obliged to relinquish the attempt, and turn- ed to recover his rifle and pack. Alas, for Old Bob ! here an unlooked-for calamity presented itself — tliey v/ere not to be found I Vainly it was that he searched diligently for four successive days, en- during in the mean time ail tliQ pangs of hunger and the goadings of a guilty conscience — his scrutiny gave not tlie shghtest indication of their whereabouts. " Truly, ' the way of transgressors is hard !' " thought Bob, as with reluctance he abandoned all,* and despairingly set his face to go- ne knew not whither ! — half-starved and half-naked, with neither pistol, gun, nor butcher-knife, for his defence in a dangerous country ; nor one morsel to renew his strengtli by day, nor even a solitary rag to screen him from the chill air of night ! The next place at which Old Bob showed himself was at an Indian lodge, thither driven by the impulse of hunger — having starved for more than five successive days. Here he procured a temporary supply from the compassionate inmates, who also kindly gave him a robe. Nothing further was heard of him for eight or ten days, and the gener- ally conceded opinion was, that he had either starved to death or had been killed by savages, when an express from the Arkansas brought intelligence of having encountered him by the way. The luckless wight, after being without eating for five or six more days, had been robbed by the Apache Indians of everything about him except a pair of ragged pantaloons, and barely escaped from them with his fife ! The express furnished him with a quantity of provisions, a pistol, robe, and ammunition, when, bidding him farewell, the two resumed their respective courses. From this date, his story is briefly told. Pursuing his way toward the Arkansas, he soon after met a small party of Mexican traders, and, creep- ing upon their encampment at inght, helped himself to a couple of horses. " It's a straight road that has no turns," muttered Old Bob, as he mounted one of them and returned to tlie Platte, where he bartered the other for a rifle and ammunition. For a brief interval he seemed to prosper in his iniquity, but erelong the tables were again turned upon him, and he experienced the hteral ful- filment of that other declaration of holy writ which says, " The wicked ihall not go unpunished.^^ Elated by his recent success, he again started for the Arkansas, with • IVo waeks subsequently, while on a hunting excursion, the person to whom the cAolen rifle belonged foimd it, with all the property of the thief; — a raoet remarkabU •iwtUMtanoe, as the country had bean filled with strolling Indians during the interval 342 A FROTRAOTED MEETCfG the int^^nt of renewing his depredations,, accompanied by two other advei>« turers wliom he had pursuaded to become the partners of his criminal enter- prise ; but, before proceeding far, he fell in with the same compauy of Mex- ican traders from whom he had stoler. the horses. They immediately re- cognized him and the animal he rede, and took possession of the latter. As for Old Bob, notwithstanding his protestations of innocence and stout resistance, they stripped him of gun, pistol, and ammunition — gave him a Bcvere Jlogging, and again turned him adrilt upon the prairie, destitute of everything except the baseness of his own heart ! " Well, Bob,'" said one of his comrades; " this business appears not so profUable, after all; thougli yoa, doubtless, have become quite warmed in its pursuit. For my own part I shall quit it before I begin, and return to the States/' " And 1, too ;" chimed in the other. "The fact is," replied Bob, *' this country is getting rather too hot forme, and I'll bear you com.pany ! What d'ye say to that ?" " Just as you like," responded his two companions ; " that is, provided you wont attempt the grab game on us." "Come, boys; now that's too bad ! Oh, you may rest assured I will never repay a jdndjiess with ingratitude, neither will I abuse the confidence of friends.'' Thus arianged, the three started on their way. Coming upon a camp of hunters, a few miles below Bent's Fort, they concluded to remain a short time in order to procure a supply of meat for their journey. Here our slip- pery custoiner borrowed a horse and rifle of his comrade, pretendedly for a bufialo hunt, and under a most solemn pledge of returning them ; how- ever, on finding himself again armed and mounted, ho was not slow to imh prove the opportunity of bidding an abrupt farewndl to the unsuspecting dupe, and resumed his course toward the States. How he eventually succeeded through this last shift, I am unable to say ; jet, the brief story of his adventures tluis far is sufficient to prove, that iniquity sometimes, even in this fife, receives a severe reward. Toward the last of August the Arapahos and Chyennes held a grand convocation, in the vicinity of Fort Lancaster, for the porpose of medicine-' making ; or, in other words, [saying their united devotions to the Great Spirit. The gathering might v.ith propriety have been termed a "Pro/roc*- ed Meeting,'^ as it continued for three successive days and nights, exclusive of the time occupied in preliminary arrangements. " Besides the tv;o tribes above named, a large number of Sioux, Curaaft- ches, Blackfeet, and Riccarees, were present, swelling the concourse to nearly a thousand lodges. The regular participants in the ceremonies of the occasion had pre- ?iously orepared themselves by a fast of three days, attended with frequent washings and purifications. A large lodge had been erected in the form of an amphitheatre, as described uj;on a former page, with apoleiniti centre pointing to the zenitli, near the top of wliich was affixed the head of a butialo. Here the throng assembled, with up-turned eyes, encircling it around in solemn dance, accompanied by a low musical chant, as they addressed the " Big Medicine,'- This strange worship was maintainei I JLLIN CHABf OF THE RCX^KY MOUIfTAIIfS. 343 day and night, without intermission, — the devotees meanwiiile neither eating nor drinking. So exhausted were they, that at times, they fell irom effects of weakness and fatigue. Some of their performances savored much of Hindoo origin. Those wishing to be thought particularly good, attested their piety by cutting themselves in various places, — and, yet others, by drawing after them the heads of buffalo fastened upon hooks inserted in their own flesh, As the exercises were about to close, an offering of blankets, robes, beads, tobacco, &c., was made to the Good Spirit, after which the crowd di»- persed. Their object appeared to be a threefold ore, viz : to do penance for sin, to fliank the Author of Good for past favors, and to implore a continuance of His beneficence for the future. The head around which they danced was evidently not the object of their veneration, but was placed there simply to remind them that, as the buffalo constituted tlieir principal sustenance, the Good Being should be more especially adored on its account. A number of articles having disappeared from the Fort rather myste- riously, suspicion was fastened upon an Indian for appropriating them in the usual way. He was accordingly charged with tiie theft, but strongly aflirmed his innocence, and, to place the matter beyond doubt, took an oath in attestation of his words. The ceremony observed was as follows : Taking his bow, he selected the stoutest- of his arrows, and, holding it in his right hand, pointed successively to the sky, the ground, and his own heart; then, kissing the bow, he again protested his innocence. This being considered satisfactory, he was honorably acquitted of the charge. An Indian is rarely known either to violate his oath or to swear falsely, as in such a case he would be looked upon as being irrecoverably exposed to the immediate wrath of heaven and the vengeance of man. The import of this ceremony may be expressed in these words : " Thou who dwellest in the air and earth, receive from me this arrow, and with this bow plunge it to my heart, if I do not speak the truth !" I leave the reader to judge in regard to the binding nature of its obligations. 00 Sept, 25th. Having purchased a horse for the purpose, I proceeded to the mountains on a hunting excursion, where, unattended by any one, I had a further opportunity of testing the varied sweets of solitude. My course lay directly west some eight miles to Soublet's creek, a con- siderable affluent of tJie Platte, heading at the base of Liong's Peak, — thence, continuing up its right hand branch, I penetrated into the moun- tainf«, on the second day, a distance of several miles and camped. One of the passes to Grand river, which is generally thought much the nearest rovtje, leads up this branch. The interval from the 27th to the 30th was devoted to exploration, and 1 ascended the main chain of the mountains left of Long's Peak. The usual height of this ridge is about ten thousand feet, upon which thi stem chambers of deathless winter are repeatedly exposed to the eye. The mountains and creeks were well timbered, — the former with pine, cedar, and balsam, and the latter with cottonwood, aepon, and box-elder 844 AGIH. Along the wartercourses and intermingled with the rude array of hilli and rocks, were many beautiful valleys, prairillons, and plateaux, all clothed with rank vegetation ; and, indeed, the soil of the entire section appeared tolerably fertile. The prevailing rock of this region is feldsphatic granite, gneiss, mica- ceous sandstone, and slate. These different classifications (here strown about in confused piles, and there again tov/ering in massive walls of im- mense altitude) presented an impressively grand appearance, and united to render the scenery one of varied sublimity and magnificence. Sept. ZOtk. In the afternoon I raised camp and proceeded for ten or twelve miles, through a broad opening between two mountain ridges, bearing a northwesterly direction, to a large valley skirting a tributary of Thompson's creek, where, finding an abundance of deer, I passed the in- terval till my return to the Fort. Upon all the principal streams were large quantities of cherries and plums, wliich proved quite acceptable. The cherry (cerasus virginiana) indi- genous to this country is quite similar in appearance to our common wild cherry, though it is generally larger and more pleasantly tasted. It grows upon a small bush, and yields in lavish profusion. Three different varieties of plums are common to these parts, but are so similar in most respects to the wild species of that fruit found in our South- ern and Western States, that I shall not take the trouble to describe them. The locality of my encampment presented numerous and varied attrac- tions. It seemed, indeed, like a concentration of beautiful lateral valleys, intersected by meandering watercourses, ridged by lofty ledges of precip- itous rock, and hemmed in upon the west by vast piles of mountains climbing beyond the clouds, and upon the north, south, and east, by sharp hues of hills that skirted the prairie ; while occasional openings, like gate- ways, pointed to the far-spreading domains of silence and loneliness. Easterly a wall of red sandstone and slate extended for miles north- ward and southward, whose counterscarp spread to view a broad and gen- tle declivity, decked with pines and luxuriant herbage, at the foot of which a lake of several miles in circumference occupies the centre of a basin- hke valley, bounded in every direction by verdant hills, that smile upon the bright gem embosomed among them. This valley is five or six miles in diameter, and possesses a soil well adapted to cultivation. It also affords every variety of game, while the lake is completely crowded with geese, brants, ducks, and guUs, to an ex- tent seldom witnessed. What a charming retreat for some one of the world-hating liltraii! He might here hold daily converse with himself, Na- ture, and his God, far removed from the annoyance of man. Four miles further north the traveller is brought to one of the main branches of Thompson's creek, up which is another pass to the waters of Grand river. This stream traces its way through a fertile valley, two or three miles oroad, stretching from the prairie almost to the base of Long's Peak, — a dis- tance of nearly thirty miles. The valley is well timbered and admirably adapted to stock-raismg. The hills and mountauis, enclosing it upon each side are also studded 1 NATURAL FOnnCATIOX. •** with forests of pine and cedar, while the entire section is stored with tl of the usual varieties of game known to contiguous regions, in additioa to its rich treasures of fruits, flowers and grasses. In surveying, from a commanding summit, the vast prairie skirting tht mnntain range upon the east, several small lakes are discernible at mfier- ent points. The water of these is usually brackish, and their shores, whitened by constant saline efflorescence, glisten in the suji's rays, and present a striking contrast with the surrounding verdure. The mind is perfectly astounded at the immense expanse thus brought witiiin the scope of vision. In a clear day, objects favorably situated no larger than an ox or a horse, may be seen at a distance of twenty miles, and the timber of creeks even for sixty or seventy miles. Here the behoider may scale beyond the clouds far heavenward, and gaze upon a world at his feet ! My hunting was confined principally to black-tailed deer. These ani- mals are mudi larger than others of the eenus c«nj», and their flesh is of a superior flavor. Their habits are sunilar to those of the wild sheep,— leading them constantly to seek the regions of spring ; in the winter, de- scending to the valleys, and in the summer, keeping pace with the melt- ing snows upon the mountain-sides. The extremity of their vertebra is shorter than that of other species of the deer family, and has upon it a small cluster of coarse, jetty hair, from which the animal derives its name. Their hair is usually of a dark brown color, coarse and brittle, with the exception of a strip of dirty white upon the haras. Their ears are very large and long, — quite similar to those of a mule ; in other respects, however, they conform to the peculiarities of the common deer. I was quite successful vrith my rifle, and, bv degrees, became much attached to the versatile life of lordly independence consociate with the loneliness of my situation. My horse, too, seemed to have forgotten all the allurements of former scenes, and presumed at no time to wander many yards from camp, — a peculiarity in this noble animal I have fre- quently had occasion to remark. When thus alone, a horse will substi- tute the society of man for that of his own species, and, as if conscious of surrounding danger, will seldom leave the vicinity of a camp for a long distance. Oct. 29^^, I started for the Fort. It had been my intention to visit a remarkable natural fortification upon one of the affluents of Crow creek, but, ammunition failing, T was reluctantly compelled to abandon it. This fortress is said to be complete in nearly all its parts, and capable of garrisoning a tliousand men, yet even one or two hundred might defend it from the repeated assaults of vast armies, and, with a small amount of labor, might render it impregnable. Its walls are huge masses of solid rock, one or two hundred feet in height, — apparently strata planted on end, — enclosing an area of several acres, unenterable except at limited openings. According to the glowing iescriptions of it given by hunters, it must be an object well worthy th« attention of the curious. 846 FALSE ACCOUTfTS. • At night, I encamped at tlie base of the mountains, upon the right hand fork of Soublet's creek, and the next day reached the Fort. The last ten or twelve miles of the route (leading over an unbroken prairie) were travelled during a heavy fall of snow, which rendered the air 60 dark it was impossible to see a dozen yards in advance. But what added still moie to the uncertainty of my course was the frequent van% ance of tlie wind, changing the position of the grass, and otherwise iii» creasing the constant hability to misjudge. Notwithstanding these accu- mulated difficulties, I struck the Platte river only half a mile below the in tended point CHAPTER XXXIII. Newspapers. — False reports.— Singular gi-asses.— Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster.— Ab excursion. — An incident. — Camp. — Huge horns. — Leopard. — Panther. — Slaughter of eagles. — Dressing skins. — The hunter's carap. — Vasques' creek. — The weather. — Return of comrades to Fort. — Sweets of solitude. — Exposure m a snow-storm. — The canon of S. Fork Platte. — A ridge. — A valley. — Beautiful locaUty. — Choice site for a settlement. — Flowers in February. — A hunting incident. — Fate of the pre- mature flowers. — Adventure with a sheep. — Discovered by hidians. — A pleasant meeting. — Camp at Crystal creek. — Thoughts of home. — Resolve on going.— Com- mence journey. — The caravan. — "Big Timber." — Country to the " Crossing."— Big Salt Bottom. — Flowers. — A stranger of other lands. — Difficulty witli Indians. — " Friday." — Tedious travelling. — No timber. — Detention. — Country. — Pawnee Fork. — Mountain and Spanish companies. — Spy Buck, the Sawnee war chief. — Pawnee Fork. — Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. — Further detention. — Sketch of ad- jacent country. — Pawnee Rocks.— En route with Friday. — Musqui toes.— Observa- tions. — Friday as a hunter. The different trading companies had just arrived from the States, bring- ing their winter stock of goods, and, what was still more acceptable to me, a bundle of newspapers. Every item of intelligence contained in the lat- ter was greedily devoured, but what afforded me no little amusement was the palpable falsity and ignorance their editors exhibited in relation to mat- ters of this country. For instance, in giving the particulars of the murder of Charvis, a Mexi can trader, which occurred in March, 1843, the crime was represented as having been committed near the Little Arkansas, by a party of Texana on their way to join Col. Wartieid, who was then encamped in that vicinity vfith forty men ! whereas, at that time Col. Warfield had only nin£ men witli him, and was at least three hmidred miles from the Little Arkansas and further, the murderers of Charvis were not Texans ! Subsequently, an article in another paper came under my observation referring to a statement made to the National Institute, by an officer of the BEASTS OF PREY. 84? Ulited States DragoonSj purporting to give a description of the the ouffalc grasi common to the gi-and prairie. This grass was represented as grow ing sk or eight inches high, and as being abundant n the mountains, par- ticularly of New Mexico, where (if I rightly remember) it was said it re- mained green the entire winter. The truth of the matter is, buffalo grass very rarely exceeds hco and never attains four inches in height, — is not found in tiie mountains at all, so far as my observation has extended, and is green only about one monih in the year ! By the way, speaking of grass reminds me of a remarkable characteristic in some varieties indigenous to this country, and which will afford matter of speculation to the inquiring mind. The blade, killed by the frost of winter, is resuscitated in the spring and gradually becomes green from the root up, without casting its stubble or emitting new shoots ! The skins obtained during my hunt found a ready sale, at prices ranging from one to three dollars each, according their to quality and condition. These articles were in great demand for the manufacture of clothing among the Fort hands, and are considered far preferable to cloth. Nov. 10th. I again returned to the mountains, heading a small party that insisted upon bearing me company. Late in the afternoon of the se- cond day we made camp in a valley, behind the first ridge of hills, upon the right hand fork of Soublet's creek. An incident en route afforded some little amusement at the time. We had left the Fort without provisions, and I accordingly proceeded a short distance in advance for the purpose of killing antelope. Riding slowly on, I noticed a badger not far ahead, and dismounted to shoot him. But the creature becoming alarmed sprang for his hole, and T hastened to stop him. This I effected by tightly grasping his tail as he was in the very act of entering his burrow. In the chase my rifle had accidentally dis- charged itself, and here commenced a struggle between me and the badger — I to retain my hold while I unbelted my pistol to dispatch him, and he to enforce his liberty. At length I succeeded, and a choice supper was mad^ from his carcase, which, to all intents, was the fattest thing I ever saw. We remained encamped at the place above named for some six weeks, and devoted the interval principally to hunting sheep, of which there were vast numbers in the neighborhood. In attestation of the monstrouu horns borne by some of them, I need only mention the simple fact of my having, killed three sheep while here whose horns measured nineteen inches in circumference, and nearly three feet in length. One of our party encountered a strange looking animal in his excur- eions, which, from his description, must have been of the leopard family. This circumstance is the more remarkable, as leopards are rarely found except in southern latitudes. However, they are not unfrequently met with in some parts of the Cuiaancne country, and their skins furnish to the natives a favorite material for arrow-cases. The only beast of prey other than wolves, encountered during the entire winter, was a solitary panther, whose extreme shyness deded aJL attempts to approach within shooting distance «48 CAMP OF THE MOUNTAIN HUMTKiL H^W ^y >^»<»^»JfcJ My more lengthy rambles brought me to a large valley immured by lit era! hills, that had been occupied a short time previous by a party of In- dians, for the purpose of eagle-catching. As proof of their success, I counted the bodies of thirty-six eagles, lying in piles at their recent camp These consisted of the only two varieties found in the mountains, viz : the American and bald eagle. The wmg-feathers of these birds command a ready sale among the Indians, by whom they are highly prized for the em- pluming of arrows. The usual mode of dressing skins, prevalent in this country among both Indians and whites, is very simple in its details and is easily practised. It consists in removing all the fleshy particles from the pelt, and divest- ing it of a thin viscid substance upon the exterior, known as the " grain ;" then, after permitting it to dry, it is thoroughly soaked in a liquid decoc% tion formed from the brains of the animal and w^ater, when it is stoutly rubbed with the hands in order to open its pores and admit the mollient OToperties of the fluid, — this done, the task is completed by alternate rub- Dings and distensions until it is completely dry and soft. HI this manner a skin may be dressed in a very short time, and, on ap- pUcation of smoke, will not become hardened from any subsequent contact with water. The winter-camp of a hunter of the Rocky Mountains would doubtleso pove an object of interest to the unsophisticated. It is usually located in l^me spot sheltered by hills or rocks, for the double purpose of securing tbe full warmth of the sun's rays, and screening it from the notice of stroll ^ Indians that may happen in its vicinity. Within a convenient prox- ^ty to it stands some grove, from which an abundance of dry fuel is pro- garable when needed ; and equally close the ripplings of a watercourse salute ^ ear with their music. His shantee faces a huge fire, and is formed of skins carefully extended e^er an arched frame-work of slender poles, which are bent in the form of & semicircle and kept to their places by inserting their extremities in the |p)und. Near this is his " graining block," planted aslope, for the ease of 5ie operative in preparing his skins for the finishing process in tlie art of iressing ; and not f%r removed is a stout frame, contrived from four pieces of timber, so tied together as to leave a square of suflicent dimensions for the required purpose, in which, perchance, a skin is stretched to its fullest ex- tension, and the hardy mountaineer is busily engaged in rubbing it with a rough stone or *' scraper," to fit it for the manufacture of clothing. riicmghis shantee upon the opposite side of the fire, a pole is reared upon erotches five or six feet high, across which reposes a choice selection of the dainties of his range, to wit: the " side ribs," shoulders, heads, and •* rump-cuts" of deer and sheep, or the " d^pouille" and " fleeces" of buf- ttlo. The camp-fire finds busy employ in fitting for the demands of appe* tite such dainty bits of hissing roasts as en appolas may grace its siaes , while, at brief intervals, the hearty attendant, enchaired upon the head of < mountain sheep, (whose huge horns furnish legs and arms for the cony9« nimce of sitting,) partakes of his tempting lunch. OtivfiiUy hung m some fitting place, are seen his ** riding" and ** fuk EXPOSURE IN A SNOW-STORM. 849 ■addles," with his halters, " cavraces," " lariietts," " apishamores," and all the aeedful materiel for camp and travelling service ; and, adjoining him at no great distance, his animals are allowed to graze, or, if suitable nourish- ment of other kind be lacking, ai-e fed from the bark of cottonwood trees levelled for that propose ; and, leaning close at hand, his rifle awaits his use, and by U his powder-horn, bullet-pouch, and tomahawk. Thus conditioned are these lordly rangers in their mountain home, nor own that any creature of human kind can possibly enjoy life better than they. The events of each day varied so Uttle in their nature, that a minute no- tice of them would prove uninteresting to the general reader. Suffice it to say, we remained here till Jan. Ist, 1844, and then removed to Vasquea creek, some thirty-five miles further south, where we encamped in the vat ley that formed my hunting ground of the previous winter. The weather continued cold, and several falls of snow had occurred, covering the prairies to the depth of six or seven inches, and the moun- tains to the depth of many feet, though it rarely remained in the warm valleys and upon the sunny side-hills to exceed three successive hours. Our camp, as a general thing, was quite favorably situated in regard ta temperature ; the day time frequently affording a spring-like warmth, though the nights were usually cold. A peculiar species of grass among the hills retained its verdancy the entire season, as did also another variety in the valleys. Our horses and mules continued to thrive and even fatten upon the nourishing herbage thus afforded by these secret chambers of spring. Soon after our removal to Vasques' creek, three Indians, from a neighboring village, paid us a visit, who brought vague information of the approximity of the Sioux, which so excited the apprehension of my camp- mates relative to their own safety and that of their animals, that they were not satisfied to remain here any longer, and accordingly left for the Fort. Wishing to ascertain the true situation and locality of such suspi- cious neighbors, I proceeded to the Indian village for that purpose. The report proved unfounded ; but yet my extra-prudential comrades were unwilling to compromise their own safety by a further hunt, and argued ■toutly to persuade me to accompany them beyond the reach of danger. In the morning, however, as all were ready to resume their journey, I mounted ray horse, and, bidding them adieu, with my lead pack-animal returned to the mountains, resolved on a further test of the sweets of loneliness. Remaining at our former camp for a week or more, I enjo3ring full scope for my trusty rifle among the vast quantities of deer which showed themselves in every direction ; and, in one of my many excursions, pene- trated to the head valley of Vasques' creek ; — being belated on my return by killing a very fat deer, I was forced to pass the night among the moun- tains, wiSiout even a robe or a blanket to screen me from the severities of a pitiless snow-storm tliat fell in the mean time. Strange as it mav seesoi, I •xperienced not the slightest ill effect in consequence. 80 350 EARLY SPRING. On removing from my old hunting grounds, I halted at two or three df- ferent points still further south, upon small affluents of the Platte, and in the course of twenty- five days encamped a few miles below the exit of the main stream from the mountains, in an opening made by t)2e forced passage of a large creek into the prairie through a sharp line of iiills. The scenery in the vicinity of this camp was romantic, v/ild, and beauti- ful. The ridge thus bisected was about four hundred feet in heighth, and opposed to the creek vast mural cliffs of limestone and sandstone that formed a gateway nearly three hundred yards wide. It ranged paral- lel with the mountains, two miles or more removed from them, presenting to the prairie a gentle escarpment ornamented with scattering pines ana clothed at intervals with rank grasses of the preceding year's growth. On ascending to its summit you stand at the verge of a steep precipice, two hundred or more feet in descent, — as if tiie earth, opened by internal convulsions, had forced the right valve of its fissure to an unnatural posi- tion, and thns formed the elevation beneath you. This ridge extends for many miles, and overlooks a beautiful valley of remarkable fertility, fifteen miles in length by three in breadth, and inter- sected by numerous streams, more or -less timbered, that find their way from the mountain side. The valley is divided by a continuous ridge that runs parallel with its length, which is much the same in character with, though more di-iiinutive iii size than the one previously described. The huge masses of red granitic sandstone that tower to a surprising altitude, isolateti and in almost every conceivable form and shape, add vastly to the wildness of the place. The rock is quite friable and con- stantly yielding to the action of the weather, while tlie soil of the valley is of a ruddy color and gravelly nature as will be readily inferred from the above fact. This superfice is fertilized, not only from the debris of its rocks, but by the immense beds of gypsum contained in its hill-sides, which are itt- cessantly decomposing to enhance the general fecundity. Vegetation, of course, must attain a rank growth in such a soil, and, in favored spots, it remains green the entire year. All the difltirent varieties of wild fruits and game indigenous to the moun- tains are found here in great abundance. Among the timber of the creek bottom, I noticed hazel-bushes, old acquaintances of the States, which looked like messengers from a far off country, and reminded me of other scenes. There are few localities in the vicinity of the mountains better situated for a small settlement, or possessed of greater agricultural advantages thaa this. The prairie at the base of the first range of hills is quite saline in ita character ; and several small lakes of brackish v.'ater, and well stocked with almost numberless water-fowl, are seen at different points, the incrus- tations upon whose shores assume a snowy whiteness. Notwithstanding this, it possesses a good soil and is admirably adapted to the growth of •took. Feb. 26ih. The fresh grass upon the hill-sides has assumed a thrifty tppearance. Insects have begun to quit their winter retreats, and, coi»« ADVENTURE WITH A SHEEP. 861 mingKnfif their shrill notes with the music of birds, hail the approaching spring. I was delighted to find in my rambles a cluster of wild-flowera in full bloom, shedding their fragrance to the breeze from a sweet, sunny spot among the hills, and I sat for a time to admire its new-born loveli- ness. One of my horses, having been for some time wasting under the effects of a disease peculiar to those animals, died this afternoon, — a loss which Bubjects me to no little inconvenience. It was a noble beast, and cost me ■ixty dollars only four months since. Feb. 28lh, A light snow which fell yesterday night prevented me from leaving camp, but having shouldered my rifle early this morning, I ranged along the valley. The snow had entirely disappeared. Three buffi,lo bulls, alarmed at my approach, rushed down a steep hill-side, quartering towards me, at the height of their speed. Running to intercept them, 1 shot as they passed, prostrating one at the instant. So great was the im- petuosity of his headway, the carcase was thrown to the very base of the descent, a distance of about three hundred yards ! The interest awakened by the picture of loveliness that greeted me two days previous, led again to the sweet spot among the rough hill-sides, — but, how changed ! The cruel frost had done his death^work— the " flowers had withered and the beauty thereof had fallen away." A tear to their memory, despite my eflTorts to restrain it. stole its way to the ground. Such was the fate of the first flower of spring ! What a prohfic theme for a melancholy fancy to brood upon, and, in its musings, catch the inspi- rations of poesy ! March 4th. The dull monotony of four days past has afforded nothing worthy of note. Spring is making rapid advances. To-day, however, an incident occurred, which, with suitable forethought, might have been turned to good account. Soon after leaving camp J encountered a band of sheep, and, despairing of a near approach, shot one of its number at a distance of nearly three hundred and fifty yards. The animal immediately fell, having been stunned by a neck wound, (*' creastd,'") but recovered as I reached it, barely aflbrding me time to grasp one of its legs. Here commenced a struggle, — the sheep to get free, and I to retain m^ hold. In the energy of its efforts 1 was dragged over the rocks for some two hundred yards, when,' having caught its fore-leg, I succeeded in throwing it, and unthinkingly despatched it with my butcher-kni ;e. I migh' have preserved it alive, as a rare and valuable addition to some zoological collection. My not having done so, I regretted the more, as it was a female and would have soon produced another of its species. March 1th. Having discovered a large band of deer in the prairie towards the Platte, early this morning I started to approach them. Being within the required distance, I was preparing to shoot, when, on glancing to the left, a party of horsemen met my view, advancing at full gallojfc. Their bare heads and fluttering robes at once announced them Indians. Here was a dilemma ! My first thought was to retire to tlie creek and tliere await them, under cover of the trees, — but tliis would convey an im ^^ RSMARKA. pression of cowardice, a thing which uniformly receives ill treatment at the hands of Indians, while bravey commands their respect. I therefore resolved to stand my ground and fight it out, if necessary, let the conse- quences be what they would. So, after examining the condition of my firearms and making the suitable arrangements for an expected rencoun- ter, I calmly awaited their approach. My design was to shoot the fore- most when within proper distance, (first forbidding their advance,) then, having discharged my pistols at the two next, if not previously killed, to close in with the remainder, butcher-knife in liand. From hostile savages I expected no quarter, and was therefore determined to sell my life as dearly as possible. A nearer approach, however, changed my gloomy apprehensions into a transport of pleasure, as I recognized two old hunters from Fort Lancaster at their head,~the first of human beings, white or Indian, that I had seen for two months. Their gratification scarcely surpassed my own, they having long since supposed me murdered by prowling savages. Having camped the day previous about three miles distant witli the par- ty accompanying them, they were now in quest of buifalo. However, as it threatened to be unpleasant weather, an invitation to my camp was gladly accepted, where the choice stores my larder afforded, were dis- cussed with epicurean gusto. Yielding to their persuasions, in the afternoon I bid adieu to my lovely retreat and proceeded with them to their encampment upon the opposite side of the Platte, near the mouth of Crystal creek. Here a small party of whites from the Fort were occupied in building a boat, with which to descend tlie river. A Mexican woman, from Taos, the wife of an engage, honored the scene with her presence, as did also three squaws and two Indians. Commodious shantees had been erected for the accommodation of the men, which, together with a huge fire and a propor- tionate pile of meat, imparted an air of comfort to everything. Remaining here for a week or two, I then proceeded to the Fort, a dis- tance of about forty miles. The different trading companies were already en route for the States, having left several days previous. The thoughts of other lands, and more congenial associations, were now revived in all tlieir vividness. They filled my mind by day, and crowded my dreams by night. Eight years had already inter\^ened since the view of a distant home and much-loved childiiood scenes had last greeted me, nearly three of which had been parsed amid the dangers and vicissitudes of prairie and mountain life. Yet, I was at a loss to decide what to do. The object of my excur- sion had not been satisfactorily accomplished. I wished to visit the Pacific and familiarize myself more perfectly with several parts of Oregon ana California ; this would yet require a year, or even more. However, the subject now uppermost in my tlioughts influenced the d^ cision, and, bidding a present adieu to other plans, 1 made prompt arrange^ ments for returning to the States. These were soon completed, and on th« 17th of March I commenced my journey. With the intermediate country from tlie Platte to Bent's Fort on the Ar- icansas the reader is already familiar ; and, as few incidents worthy of note occurred between these two points, I shall content myself with a mert A RARE CUSTOMER SdS ptBiiiig notice and hasten with becoming brevity to a conclusion of th« task in hand. The fourth day succeeding my departure I overtook a division of the caravan of moimtain traders, numbering ten men and three waggons, with which I proceeded to the Big Timber of the Arkansas, distant about two hundred miles southeast from Fort Lancaster. The country at tliis place, in the immediate vicinity of the river, is fertile and well timbered, but the prairies are slightly undulating, arid, and gener- ally unproductive. The prevailing rock is exhibited in abrupt chffs and bold escarpments from the hill-sides and banks of watercourses, and con- sists of various conglomerates, with limestone and sandstone ; the latter being very fine-grained and admirably suited to the preparing of edgetools. I noticed indications of coal in some parts, and the usual quantity of saKne efflorescences, particularly upon the south side of the river. On the 10th of April, the caravan being augmented by an accession of three other waggons and several men. we again resumed our journey, and, on the 28th inst, struck the Santa Fe trail near the Crossing of the Arkan- sas, one hundred and ten miles below the Big Timber. The geological character of the prairie and the river bottoms is much the same as tha,t previously described, with the exception of a general scar- city of rock ; though to the southward it is very sterile in appearance, and a continuous chain of hills, that in some places are mere knobs of naked sand entirely destitute of every semblance of vegetation, plainly points out the cheerless llanos of the Great American Desert. Below the Big Timber the rank growths of absinthe, which have been heretofore so prevalent, almost entirely disappear. The river gradually expands to the width of nearly two miles, forming several small islands, and scatters its waters in numerous chaimels, over beds of quicksand, so shallow and variable as to preclude the possibility of successful navigation. Timber becomes very scarce, — so much so, that in many places it is difficult to obtain a sufficiency even for the camp-fires of travellers. The bottoms are usually broad and fertile, but possess a highly saline cha- racter. One of the above, known as the Big Salt Bottom, is some forty miles in length and four or five miles broad. It contains frequent streams and pools of brackish water, with spots in which vegetation entirely gives place to thick coatings of mineral salts. Among the prairie hills I occasionally noticed extensive spreads com- pletely covered with a singular species of blue flower in full bloom, which imparted to the otherwise forbidding prospect an air of loveliness and beauty ; but, in glancing over the far-reaching landscape, I looked in ▼ain for tlio floral attractions peculiar to mountain regions. A few n lies above the Crossing, an incident occarred which renewedly aroused my recollection of other lands. This was the appearance of a fine-looking coon, the first I had seen since leaving the States. These animals are strangers to the mountains, and were never before known te penetrate thus far westward. 80* 154 MEETING OF COMPANIES. In passing a village of Arapahos, near the Salt Bottom, v/e had con- siderable difficulty with them on account of ten or fifteen domesticates bufialo connected with the caravan. The Indians were highly exaspera« ted, and accused the whites of stealing their buffalo. They even armed them.selves to fight us, and were deterred from their purpose only by a large present of tobacco, but still threatened vengeance in case of a renewal of the offence. Soon after this we were joined by a young Arapaho Indian, named Fri day, who was desirous of visiting the States. He had formerly lived in St. Louis, where he had acquired a knowledge of the English language, and still maintains a reputation for honesty, intelligence, and sobriety. Hereafter I will have occasion to speak of him more particularly, in con- nection with his previous history. Resuming our course, we bore leftward from the river and struck into the high prairie. Late rains had rendered the ground muddy, and travel ling consequently became slow and tedious. The weather continued wet and disagreeable, in addition to which th»* unprecedented size and velocity of the streams caused us frequent deten tion. The trail, for four or five days, led over a number of timberless water courses, known as " the coon creeks," which subjected us to great incon venience in t^ie item of fuel, as neither tree nor stick could be procurer for cooking purposes, and bois de bache, the substitue of buffalo countries- had become so thoroughly saturated Vv ith water it was almost impossible tc ignite it. On the 23d of April, having arrived at Pawnee Fork, we were obhged to remain some four weeks before a ford could be effected, — but the dense bands of buffalo that thronged the vicinity abated somev/hat the annoyance of delay. The country, between the "Crossing" and Pawnee Fork, varies but little in its general character from that previously described, and exhibits a favorable contrast to the forbidding wastes of naked sand upon the oppo 8ite side of the Arkansas. Although not absolutely sterile, it is not rich and suffers more from lack of moisture than any actual defect of soiL Its entire destitution of timber will prevent it from ever becoming inhab- ited to any great extent. Rock of all kinds is very scarce, and almost the only specimens preva^ lent are found in the pebbles and diminutive fragments which lie scattered over the prairie. During our stay we were joined by Messrs. Bent and St. Vrain, and three or four Spanish companies, which increased our caravan to fifty or more waggons and nearly one hundred men. With the former of the companies was a Chyenne chief, (Slim Face.) on hie way to Washington to solicit the U. S. Government to adopt some effect- ual means for the suppression of the sale of ardent spirits amor^ hig people. (A veiy laudable object, indeed.) PAWNEE ROCKS. 855 Three or four Mexican ladies and several children (being the family of one of the Spanish traders, from Chihuahua) were also included with the new accession ; but the most noted personage among the whole was Old Spy Buck, the famous Shawnee war-chief, who had distinguished liimself as the leader of a small band of his countrymen in connection with Kirker and the Americans employed by the governments of Santa Fe and Chihu- ahua to fight the Apache and Navijo Indians. The old chieftain was on his return home, venerable in age and covere(? with scars, which gave indubitable evidence of the place he had occupied in the hour of danger. The history of his exploits would fill a volume far more interesting in its details than those of the proudest heroes of fiction. Pawnee Fork afibrded an inexhaustible supply of cat-fish, which were caught in great numbers by our party. I know of no other stream near, upon the Atlantic side of the mountains, where fish are found in any quan- tity or size worth naming. This creek heads at the eastern extremity of the " Divide," in the vicinity of the Smoky Hill branch of the Kansas, and by pursuing a south- ern course for about one hundred and fifty miles, finds its discharge in the xVrkansas. It is heavily timbered, and is known among the Indians as Otter creek, on account of the great number of those animals found upon it. The valley which skirts it is several miles broad, and very fertile, present- ing a large extent of excellent land, well adapted to cultivation. While here, I became acquainted with the salutary properties of gun- powder in an interesting case. My horse, having been bitten by a rattle- snake, was cured by the following simple process : The wound being shghtly creased immediately above and below, a small portion of powder was burnt upon it for four or five times in succession, which completely destroyed tlie efiects of the poison. I am informed by those who have repeatedly tried this remedy, that it has never been known to fail when promptly applied. On the 21st of May, we finally effected a crossing, and by the 24th haa reached Walnr.t creek, twenty miles distant, where high water again op- posed a present barrier to further progress. The bottoms were so com- pletely flooded that we were forced to occupy an adjoining eminence for a camp. This stream is heavily timbered, and derives its name from the abun- dance of black walnut found along its banks. Its valley is very similar to that of Pawnee Fork as regards size and fertility, while the country be- tween the tv/o is evidently possessed of a good soil. About twelve miles below Walnut creek, near the trail, is a huge and isolated mass of coarse sandstone, known as the Pawnee Rocks. This is a noted landmark, and, like Independence Rock elsewhere spoken of, la covered with the names of passers by, en route to and from the mountains and Mexican States. Here was a confused medley of cognomens, — English, French, Spanish, German, Irish, and Scotch,— all entered upon the register of fancied immor- tality; and h«re, too, as I glanced over the strange catalogue, a number of our FRIDAY. mbering a company were busily engaged in carving their own ; but rememl former resolution, I declined the honor of imitating their example. June I6th. More than three weeks have intervened since our arrival at Walnut creek, and still there is no present possibility of proceeding with the waggons. This continued delay is becoming extremely irksome, not- withstanding the countless thousands of buffalo which afford us an inex- haustible feast of " fat things." Time is precious and I must go on ; and there are several who would do likewise, but hesitate, — while frightful vis- ions of Pawnees and Osages disturb their midnight dreams and fluster their waking thoughts. Friday, the Arapaho, asks to accompany me ; — our arrangements are completed, and to-morrow we leave. June 11th. About noon, bidding adieu to vexatious liindiances, we started, and, after a short ride, forded the Arkansas above the mouth of Wal- nut creek, — ^thence, follov/ing the course of that river upon its opposite bank, we halted for the night in a broad sandy bottom, four or five miles be- low. The musquetoes here proved so troublesome to ourselves and animals, we were compelled to defend the former by means of a dense smoke and pro- tect the latter with a close envelope of robes. The next morning we re- crossed the Arkansas, and, striking the waggon road soon after near Plum Butte, continued our way to Cow creek. A few miles above this point the regular trail leaves the Arkansas upon the right, and, following a northwesterly course for about three hundred and fifty miles, strikes the States at Independence, Mo. The interval between Walnut and Cow creeks is generally sandy and somewhat tumulous, but is different in many respects from any other sec- tion previously noticed. The hills, adjacent to the river and near the trail, are coniform and not unfrequently naked piles of dry sand, while the hollows and depressions among them afford a humid soil, coated with rank vegetation Cow creek is a small stream with very steep, clayey banks, and is sparsely timbered. Its bottom is about four miles broad and of variable fertility, — doubtless susceptible of cultivation. On resuming our course we leave the buffalo region, a transition for wliich we are now fully prepared. Aware that this must shortly occur, I had sent Friday in advance with my rifle, who very soon prostrated three fine buUsj affording us a stock of most excellent beef from which to make our selec- tions. Few Indians or whites can compete with Friday as a buffalo-hunter either in the use of the bow or rifle. I have seen him kill five of these animals at a single chase, and am informed that he has not unfrequently exceeded that number. Conscious skill, in this respect, is the occasion of some little pride to its possessor. But it is not in hunting exploits alone that he excels; his deeds of war equally command the respect and admiration of his tribe, among whom he is known as the " Arapaho American." A brief sketch of his early life I have reserved for the succeeding chapter, which the reader may rely upoM «• strictly true. 857 CHAPTER XXXIV. Th» Arapaho American, a sketch of real life.— Tenets of the mountain IndiejM i« reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. — ^The " v/ater bull."— Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locaUty for settle- ment. — Sudden rise of water.— Separate routes.— Dangerous travelling.— Osag« village. — Osages, and all about them.— Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas.— Con- cluding remarks. Early in the year 1828, ere peace had been established betv^^een the whiles and the Arapahos, a large village of that tribe made its temporary encampment upon the waters of the Cimarone, in the vicinity of the Santa Fe trail. An opportunity so favorable for amusement was not suffered long to pass unimproved by the younger ones, and group after group of merry hoyM and girls were soon bescattered over the adjoining prairie, engaged in their innocent sports, — for of play all children possess an intuitive fondness, be they white, red, or black. Each successive day yielded its tribute to the routine of pleasure, as, true to the teachings of childish philosophy, they seized the enjoyments of the present, nor thought or cared for the future, — and thus far, it may be said, some men are but overgrown boys. Impelled by the restless spirit of their years, on an occasion, several frolicksome lads had wandered to an unusual distance from camp, and passed most of the day in a fruitless effort to catch prairie-dogs. At length, wearied with a bootless task, they set their faces homeward. Scarcely had they started, however, when the village made its appear- ance, bearing directly towards them ; whereupon the happy band, seat- ing themselves at the point of an eminence, awaited its approach, and soon mingled with their relatives, one after another, as they were dis- closed by the passing throng. In a short time a little boy, some six years old, alone remained — watch- ing with eager impatience the appearance of his father's lodge ; but still it came not. The crowd had passed and a solitary old man brought up the rear. On seeing the lone stripling, he enquired the cause of his delay. " My parests come not, and I await them," said the little fellow. "Haste you," replied the man ; " they have gone towards the sun-risinsf for a day's travel. Run quick, that you may join them." The lad promptly followed the old man's direction, and set off in pur* Buit. His route led over a long reach of dry sand-prairie, eastward of the Cimarone, which was entirely destitute of water, and socfi after cross- ing the creek a heavy wind obscured the trail, in addition to which the tln'ck clouds of dust, with fast-closing night and insufferable thirst, com- pelled him to tnm again to the Cimarone. a58 THE ARAPAHO AMERICAIf . Another attempt to reach the village the day following was unsucces&' fill, and each repeated effort proved equally unavailing. At length, weakened by hunger and suffering, he laid himself down t« die, in a grass plat by the creek side. Seven days of continued fasting which followed, left him so debilitated he could scarcely stand. His mind began to wander ; he thought himself a dweller of the Spirit Land and a ranger of the hunting ground of happ/ souls. Hio bewildered vision pictured the joyous chase, bounding along the celestial plains. Strange voices greeted his ear, and sounds broke upon die stillness of solitude. He gazes around, and sights still stranger close in upon him, — not visionary, but real. " It must be so," said he. " Here are tlie horses for me to ride, and tliere is the game for me to chase. But, what singular buffalo ! How long their horns, and how white ! — What strange colors, too ! — white, red, black, and mixed ! And, who are they ? — Ah ! the pale-faces ! They ap- proach ! What do they here ? — I cannot escape them !" Thereupon he found himself in the firm grasp of two white men, who cut short his solilo- quy by bearing him to their camp. His fancy, though illusive in its inception, had ended in sober reality The strange voices greeting his ear were those of his captors, who had just encamped near him ; the horses and singular buffalo exciting his won- der, were the horses and cattle of a caravan of Santa Fe traders ; and the f)ale-faces were two of the company, by the names of Fitzpatrick and Soub- et, by whom he was taken. They were on their return to the States, and, noticing a strange object in the vicinity of camp soon after their noon halt, approached to learn its character and found the little sufferer as above related. He had never before seen the whites, and, knowing them only from the representations of his people, they were associated in his boyish fancy with all that was hateful and wicked. But, instead of the cruel death he had supposed would be his certain allotment at their hands, they administered to his wants and plied him with kindnesses. Everything about him was so etrange, he could scarcely be convinced it was not a picture of the imagina- tion — that he was not yet dreaming of the- happy country, or actually initi- ated into its delightful mysteries. From the date of this event he was ushered into a new state of exist- ence, and soon acquired the language and habits of the whites. Taken to St. Louis, he remained there for seme five years, and received a partial ed- ucation during the interval. So complete was the transformation, he even forgot the name and language of his nation, and became an adept in the customs of civilized life. About the year 1832, Capt. Grant succeeded in effecting a treaty with the Arapahos, and pending its negotiation mention was made of a boy, said to have been lost upon the Cimarone several years previous, who was sup- posed to have fallen into the hands of a tradmg company, and for whose ransom a large number of horses was offered. It is needless to say our hero was the subject of this request, and, in or- der to conciliate their good will and place the new-formed treaty upon a RELIGIOUS TENETS OF MOUNTAIN TRIBES. 859 permanent basis, word was forwarded to his benefactor, Fitzpatrick, inform- ing him of the circumstance. Friday, for this was the name by which the Indian youth had now be- come known, on hearing the proposal of his relatives, steadily refused com- pliance, declarini^ the whites to be his only relatives, and that with them he would hve and die. Subsequently, however, he was persuaded to accompany his guardian to the mountains, expecting shortly to revisit the States. Here his father and mother came forward to claim him as their long-lost son. But the lapse of seven years had served to eflace all the recollections of early childhood. Parents and friends were alike strangers to him ; he re- fused to own them, and recoiled from their advances. Their language grated upon his ear in a confused jargon of unknown sounds. His mother wept from mingled emotions of grief and joy, while his father and brothers pressed their mouths in unfeigned astonishment. Still his obstinacy was unyielding, and the united entreaties of relatives failed to exert upon him the least influence. At length, the arguments and advice of the fur traders induced him to visit the Arapahos village, where he was received with distinguished honor hy his relatives and nation. Every one hastened to pay him respect,-- while feast succeeded feast, and council succeeded councU, to welcome hia return, and the little boy, who, seven years before — lost amid the cheerless sands of the American Desert, and weakened by hunger and suflering — had lain down to die upon the bank of the Cimarone, now found himself suddenly made famous as the " Little Chief " of his tribe,—the « Arapaho American." Honor, whose potent spell exerts its influence upon older heads and more enlightened minds, gradually reconciled him to the rude mode of life his destiny seemed to mark out, and he again became identified with the associations of former years. r Still, however, he retains an undiminished attachment to the whites, and continues to merit and command their esteem. His character, for honesty, integrity, and sobriety, has as yet stood unimpeached. A chief by birth, he might assert a more prominent station among his people ; but he declines it, with the noble resolve : — " Until by my own achievements I have earned that honor, I shall never consent to become a chief; for certainly, then my people will listen to me !" The hero of the above sketch is now on his way to visit his friends iu St Louis for the second time, and is at present my only travelling com- panion. As such I find him agreeable and interesting. I am indebted to him for much valuable information relative to the habits and peculiarities of his own and various other Indian tribes, while his vast fund of ready anecdotes and amusing stories serves to beguile tiie weariness of camp hours. The religious peculiarities of the mountain tribes furnished us a theme for frequent conversation, inasmuch as their sentiments with regard to a future existence are strangely interesting in detail. Most of 3iem are firm behevers in the immortality of the soul, as well as the conditico of lewaros and punishments after death—thoujj^ some accredit the Himft)? *60 THE WATER BULL. Bodons of metamorphosis or metempsychosis, while yet a very few look for amiihilation. The majority, however, aver that the good, at death, after a long and tedious journey, reach a happy country, abundant in everything the heart can desire, or thought conceive of ; where, free from pain and sickness, and removed from every ill, they shall bask forever in the sunshine of perfect beatitude. To aid in this long journey, horses are occasionally sacrificed for the feeble and decrepit, (more generally squaws and aged warriors,) that, by mounting their disembodied chargers, the spirits of the deceased may gain a ■peedy entrance within its confines and taste the joys of their eternal home. Of those adhering to difierent opinions, some believe in the transmission of souls from body to body through successive ages ; and others, that they become the spirits of either men or animals, according to tlie virtues or demerits of the departed. With regard to the final allotment of the wicked, their general theology consigns them to an interminable wandering over a desert waste, without purpose or rest, or even one moment's respite from their miseries, and sub- ject to all the bitter pangs of hunger, thirst, and nakedness ; and tormented with the sudden and intolerable extremities of heat and cold. The Scrip- turian here will not fail to recognize an obscure delineation of the world of woe, as portrayed in the sacred writings. The ideas of some few, on the other hand, transform tliese condemned spirits into wild beasts or reptiles, but more frequently into prairie-dogs, that, by penance and suflTering through a Icmg succession of years, they may atone for previous misdeeds. Many incidents of adventure related by Friday would doubtless interest the general reader, but space precludes their insertion. However, I cannot refuse place to the following, as afibrding to the curious a more special matter of speculation. "On my return from an expedition against the Utahs," said he, "in crossing the mountain chain south of Long's Peak, I went in advance of the main party. ** My course led over one of the highest points of the range, whose summit disclosed a level surface of considerable extent. While passing leisurely along, the crowing of a mountain fowl, a tihort distance to the right, caught my ear. (There are fowls in some parts of the mountains similar to those raised by the whites, — but they are very wild and shy.) Following the sound, I was led to the verge of a small lake, with steep banks of rock, and sat down by it, in hopes of discovering the object of my curiosity. "While here, my attention was directed to a strange movement in the lake-waters, accompanied by a loud noise and turmoil ; soon after which a large creature arose from the middle and swam to the shore, where he •tood upon a rock in full view. His looks frightened me. In size he was equal to the largest buffalo, and much like one of those animals in form -, he was black, with a singularly shaped head, and had tusks in* ftead of horns, which curved downward. * Ht ItokMJ 10 terrible I harried away as q rowed by frequent watercourses. Timber is becoming more abundant. The soil appears humid, and presents an air of general fertility. The grasses also differ in their species and assume a lusty growth. The sand-hills which had before skirted the Arkansas, as the traveller advances, lose their naked deformity amid dense groves of timber, and finally disappear in the distance* There is throughout a marked scarcity of game common to the grand prairies, and everything denotes an approach to the frontiers of civiliza- tion. Council Grove is a stream of considerable magnitude, tributary to the Oaage river, and, by the Santa Fe trail, is one hundred and forty-four miles west of Independence. Its bottoms are broad, fertile, and well timbered with heavy forests of oak, walnut, maple, and most other varieties of wood indigenous to the States. The country in its vicinity is highly interesting to the agriculturist, and presents a soil remarkable for its fertility, inviting the hand of indus- try to a rich reward. Here, too, all the varied products of the farmer might find a ready cash market, from the numerous mountain and Spanish companies that con- stantly pass and repass, and, doubtlessly, at commanding prices. This locality, in fact, being situated upon the very verge of the grand prairie, aflfords a most eligible point for a settlement, and will doubtless soon ac- quire a merited importance as the place of general out-fit and supply for the western and southwestern trade. Through the agency of Friday I became acquainted with the existence of a vegetable found in these parts, which is known as the prairie-potata This attains a size almost equalling our common potato. It is of a rough, knotty appearance, somewhat oviform, and when cooked is dry and sweet tasted. It is found generally in the banks of watercourses, and produces a low ground-vine, not dissimilar to a species of that vegetable usual to warm climates. We were detained here for five or six days, by a continuous rain which raised the creek to an extraordinary height,— overflowing its banks and completely flooding its extensive bottoms. So sudden was the rise that we were compelled to move camp three times in the course of aa hour, and were finally driven to an adjoining hill. Improving the first interval of fair weather presenting itself, I to my Indian companion md renewed my jovney alone, m mt 2i ^, - < 862 crmJKED INDIANS. routes led in different directions, his for Independence, Mo., and mine foi Van Buren, Ark. Following the course of the creek by its right bank for some twenty miles, I then struck over to the Neosho, and, continuing on, ^16 fourth day subsequent I reached the Osage village The country passed in travelling this distance, presented much excellent land. The creek valleys were broad and heavily timbered, and the adjoin- ing prairies undulating and clothed with luxuriant vegetation. The streams v/ere so swollen I was forced to swim most of them, which rendered my progress one continued scene of toilsome and perilous adventure. My stay at the Osage village was prolonged for two days, during which time I was kindly entertained by a chief who served as my host. The Osages number between four and five thousand souls, and inhabit fhe section of country bordering upon the Neosho river. Their territory is well timbered, abundantly watered, and remarkably fertile. In dress and appearance these Indians assimilate the Pawnees and Caws ; but their dwellings are neater and more spacious, being constructed of wa- ter-flags fastened to frame-works of poles, so ingeniously thatched and tightly interwoven as to prevent the ingress of either wind or rain. This tribe are beginning to make advances in civilization, and devote some little attention to agriculture. A farmer and blacksmith are furnish- ed them by the U. S. Government, while the philanthropic efforts of the *\merican Board of Missions are directed to their amelioration with consid- erable success. On resuming my course, a branch of the Neosho which intercepted it proved unfordable, and its passage was otherwise rendered particularly dan- gerous on account of the swiftness of its current. However, my landlord, on seeing my determination to cross at all hazards, procured two large pieces of raw hide, which were firmly sewn together in boat shape and held to their proper position by slender boughs ; these he conveyed to the stream, and desired me to put my baggage into them, remarking that there was " plenty room " for myself, too. Following his directions, the frail bark was soon launched and towed to the opposite shore by a son of the old man, who swam across for that purpose, while his brother, leading my mule after him, plunged into the current, and in a few moments every- thing was safely landed. To rew^ard this generous act I presented the old chief with a blanket, and bade him remember that " Good acts pay a sure tribute to a good heart, for they nourish its possessor with happy thoughts ; very often, too, they yield a twofold return by the gratitude of the one upon whom such acts are bestowed ; and then, again, sometimes the practiser is more than blessed by the acceptance of such presents as the grateful one may chance to offer. So, let my brother always do good, and the Good Spirit will own him as a subject well worthy of his special blessing." Bidding the friendly natives adieu, I mounted my mule and hurried on- ward. My course led through the territory occupied by a division of the Shawnees, and that settled by the Quapaws and Cherokees. These tribei ire partially civilized ; but the Cherokees are iisuther advanced in refine CONCLUSION. M« ment than any other Indian nation I am acquainted with. In fact, they are bettftr educated, better Hvers, and a better people than their immediate white neighbors upon the frontiers of Arkansas and Missouri. Late in tlie afternoon of July 4th I reached Van Buren, my point of des- tination, happy again to mingle amid scenes and associations from which I had been so long separated ; and here I would take leave of the readei, provided I have been so honored as to command his interest and attention thus far. If the preceding pages have added aught to his stock of useful information, or served to while away a leisure hour agreeably, the object which primarily influenced their publication will have been accomplished,—- if contrariwise, it remains for me to beg pardon for the trespass I have ubp decgnedly committed upon his time and patience.