1907 ,^ ^« \"' -v: :iCE ^ 0^ v^^^^yiC/^:^--.,.^^:^i' -^^ V O .^■% ^?®^i/\^^^ V^. ' f .x^'% ■N-^-" •^. VV,^«,^^^ *' .>^ -t. ,. \^:^^''./.., f ^0m^r V,. 4 <^^ *^.%., ^^" V' »■<*»/ c -,^^W/^^ -^^^^ <.<^ ^^ >!^^^^ frnm"^ %.^' :^#«:,^,^ ^^ SPALDING'S ATHLETIC LIBRARY Spalding's Athletic Library is admitted to be the leading library series of its kind published in the world. In fact, it has no imitators, let alone equals. It occupies a field that it has created for itself. The Library was established in the year 1892, and it is an admitted fact by many authorities that Spalding's Athletic Library has accomplished a great deal in America for the advancement of amateur sport. The millions that read the Library during the year will attest to its valtie. A glance at its index will disclose the remarkable field that it covers. It is immaterial what the pastime may be, you will find in Spalding's Athletic Library a reference to it, either in a book devoted exclusively to that particular game or in some of the books that cover many sports. It has been the aim of the editors to make the books Official, and they are recognized as such, all the important governing bodies in America giving to the publishers of Spalding's Athletic Library the right to publish their oflScial books and oflScial rules. A glance at the names of the authors of the different vol- umes will convince the reader that the best men in each particular line, the men best qualified to write intelligently on each subject, are selected ; and, as a result, there is not another series in the world like Spalding's Athletic Library series. It is immaterial what new game or form of sport be conceived or advanced, it is invariably the aim of the publishers to have a book on that sport. In that way Spalding's Athletic Library is in the field at the beginning of the sport, follows it year in and year out and there can be no doubt whatever that the present popularity of athletic sports can attribute the same to the "backing" it has received from Spalding's Athletic Library. JAMES E. SULLIVAN, SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBKARV Tl Giving the Titles ot all Spalding Athletic Library [[ J Boohs now in print, grouped tor ready reterence L SPALDING OFFICIAL ANNUALS No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. lO No. 12 i Spalding's Official 2 Spalding's Official 2a Spalding's Official 3 Spalding's Official SpaSding's Official Spalding's Official Spalding's Official Spalding's Officoal Spalding's Official Spalding's Official Spalding's Official Spalding's Official Base Ball Guide Foot Ball Cuide Association Foot Ball Guide Cricket Guide Lawn Tennis Annual Coif Guide Ice Hockey Guide Basket Ball Guide Bowling Cuide Indoor Base Ball Guide Roller Polo Guide Athletic Almanac Base Ball Official Base Ball Group I. No. 1 Spalding' Guide. No. 202 How to Play Base Ball. No. 223 How to Bat. No. 232 How to Run Bases. No. 230 How to Pitch. No. 229 How to Catch. No. 225 How to Play First Base. No. 226 How to Play Second Base. No. 227 How to Play Third Base. No. 228 How to Play Shortstop. No. 224 How to Play the Outfield. r How to Organize a Base Ball I Club. [League. I How to Organize a Base Ball No. \ How to Manage a Base Ball Club. How to Train a Base Ball Team. How to Captain a Base Ball How to Umpire a Game. [Team. "" Technical Base Ball Terms, No. 219 Ready Reckoner of Base Ball Percentages. BASE BALL AUXILIARIES No. 291 Minor League Base Ball Guide.* No. 293 Official Handbook National League of Prof. B. B. Clubs. ' * Ready in May. 231 Group IK Foot Ball No. 2 Spalding's Official Foot Ball Guide. No. 284 How to Play Foot Ball. No. 2A Spalding's Official (Soccer) As'-ociation Foot Ball Guide. No. 286 How to Play Soccer. FOOT BALL AUXILIARIES No. 283 Spalding's Official Canadian Foot Ball Guide. No. 294 Official Intercollegiate Associa- tion Soccer Foot Ball Guide. Group III. crichet Ho. 3 Spalding's Official Cricket Guide.* No. 277 Cricket and How to Play It. Group IV. Lawn Tennis No. 4 Spalding's Official Lawn Tennis Annual. No. 157 How to Play Lawn Tennis. No. 279 Strokes and Science of Lawn Tennis. Group V. Goir No. 5 Spalding's Official Golf Guide. No. 276 How to Play Golf. Group VI. noehey No. 6 Spalding's Official Ice Hockey No. 154 Field Hockey. {Guide. No. 188 Lawn Hockey. No. 180 Ring Hockey. HOCKEY AUXILIARY No. 256 Official Handbook Ontario Hockey Association. Any of the Above Books Mailed Postpaid Upon Receipt of lO Cents ^ SPALDING ATHLETIC L IBRARY /7=^ Group VII. Basket Ball No. 7 Spalding's Offi cial Basket Ball Guide. No. 193 How to Play Basket Ball. No. 260 Basket Ball Guid-e for Women. BASKET BALL AUXILIARY No. 278 Official Collegiate Basket Ball Handbook. Group VIII. Bowling No. 8 Spalding's Official Bowling Gtiide. Group IX. Indoor Base Ball Ho. 9 Spalding's Official Indoor Base Ball Guide. Group X. Polo No. 10 Spalding's Offi cial Roller No. 129 Water Polo. [Polo Guide. No. 199 Equestrian Polo. Group XI. Miscellaneous Games No. 201 Lacrosse, No. 248 Archery. No, 138 Croquet, Ko. 271 Roque jj [Racquets. Yq7 ^Squash-Racquets. ^^* (Court Tennis. No, 13 Hand Ball. No, 167 Quoits. No. 170 Push Ball. No, 14 Curling, No. 207 Lawn Bowls, No. 188 Lawn Games. No. 18» Children's Games. Group XII. Athletics No, 12 Spalding's Official Athletic Almanac. No. 27 College Athletics. No. 182 All Around Athletics. No. 156 Athletes' Guide. No. 87 Athletic Primer. No. 273 Olympic Games at Athens, 1906. No, 252 How to Sprint. No. 255 How to Run 100 Yards. No. 174 Distance and Cross Country Running. No. 259 How to Become a Weight Thrower. No. 55 Official Sporting Rules. No. 246 Athletic Training for School- boys. ATHLETIC AUXILIARIES No. 241 Amateur Athletic Union Offi- cial Handbook. No. 217 Olympic Handbook (St. Louis). No. 292 Intercollegiate Official Hand- book. ATHLETIC AUXILIARIES- Cow. No. 245 Y. M. C. A. Official Handbook. No. 281 PubHc Schools Athletic League Official Handbook. No. 274 Intercollegiate Cross Country Association Handbook. Athletic Group XIII. Accomplishments No. 177 How to Swim. No. 128 How to Row. No. 209 How to Become a Skater, No. 178 How to Train for Bicycling, No. 23 Canoeing. No. 282 Roller Skating Guide. No. 296 Speed Swimming. Group XIV. Manly sports No. 18 Fencing. (ByBreck). No. 162 Boxing. No. 165 Fencing. (BySenac). No. 140 Wrestling. No. 236 How to Wrestle. No. 102 Ground Tumbling. No. 233 Jiu Jitsu, No. 166 How to Swing Indian Clubs. No. 200 Dumb Bell Exercises. No. 143 Indian Clubs and Dumb Bells. No. 262 Medicine Ball Exercises. No. 29 Pulley Weight Exercises. No. 191 How to Punch the Bag. No 289 Tumbling for Amateurs. Group XV. Gymnastics No. 104 Grading of Gymnastic Exer- cises. No. 214 Graded Calisthenics and Dumb Bell Drills. No. 254 Barnjum Bar Bell Drill. No. 158 Indoor and Outdoor Gymnastic Games. No. 124 How to Become a Gymnast. No. 287 Fancy Dumb Bell and March- ing Drills. Group XVI. Physical cuitore No. 161 Ten Minutes' Exercise for Busy Men. No. 208 Physical Education and Hy- giene. No. 149 Scientific Physical Training and Care of the Body. No. 142 Physical Training Simplified. No. 185 Hints on Health. No. 213 285 Health Answers. No. 238 Muscle Building [ning. No. 234 School Tactics and Maze Run- No. 261 Tensing Exercises. [ics. No. 285 Health by Muscular Gymnast- No. 288 Indigestion Treated by Gym- No. 290 Get Well; Keep Well, [nasties. Any of the Above Books Mailed Postpaid Upon Receipt of 10 Cents ^\^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY//^ Group I. Base Ball No. 1— Spalding's Official Base Ball Guide. The leading Base Ball annual of the country and the otBcial authority of the game. Edited by Henry Chadwick, the "Feather of Base Ball." Contains the ofBcial play- ing rules, with an ex- planatory index of the rules compiled by Mr. A. G. Spalding; pictures of all the teams in the National, American and minor leagues; ofBcial averages; re- views of the season in all the pro- fessional organizations; college Base Ball, and a great deal of interesting information. Price 10 cents. No. 302— How to Play Base Ball. Edited by T. H. Murnane. New and revised edition. Contents: How to become a good bat- ter; how to run the bases; advice to base runners. by James E. Sullivan, President A.A.U.; how to become a good pitcher; how to become a good catcher; how to play tirst base; how to play sec- ond base; how to play third base; how to play shortstop; how to play the infield; how to play the out- field; the earmarks of a ball player, by John J. McGraw; good advice for players; how to organize a team; how to manage a team; how to score a game; how to umpire a game; base ball rules interpreted for boys. Price 10 cents. No. 223— How to Bat. The most important part of ball playing now- adays, outside of pitch- ing, is batting. The team that can bat and has some good pitchers can win base ball games; therefore, every boy and young man who has. of (■nurse, already learned to catch, should turn his attention to this dt'partment of the game, and there is no better way of becoming proficient than by reading this book and then constantly practising the little tricks explained. Price 10 cts. \o. 232— How to Run the Bases. The importance of base running as a scientific! feature of the national game is becoming more and more recognized each' year. Besides being spec- tacular, feats of base! stealing nearly always figure in the winning of a game. Many a close contest is decided on the winning of that little strip of 90 feet which lies between cushions. When hits are few and the enemy's pitchers steady, it becomes, incumbent on the oppos- ing team to get around the bases in some manner. Effective stealing not only increases the effectiveness of the team by advancing its runners without wasting hits, but it serves to materially disconcert the enemy and frequently has caused an entire opposing club to temporarily lose its poise and throw away the game. This book gives clear and concise di- rections for excelling as a base run- ner; tells when to run and when not to do so; how and when to slide; team work on the bases; in fact, every point of the game is thor- oughly explained. Illustrated with pictures of leading players. Price 10 cents. No. 230— How to Pitehi. A new, up-to-date book. The object of this book is to aid the beginners who aspire to become clever twirlers, and its contents are the practi- cal teaching of men who have reached the top as pitchers, and who know how to impart a knowl- edge of their art. All the big leagues' pitchers are shown. Price 10 cents. No. 229— How to Catch. Undoubtedly the best^ book on catching that I has yet been published. Every boy who has hopes] of being a clever catcher should read how well- nown players cover their position. Among the more noted ones who de- 1 scribe their methods of play in this book are Lou Criger of the Boston Americans and Johnnie Kling of the Chicago Nationals. The numerous pictures comprise all the noted catchers in the big leagues. I'rlce 10 cents. gx\ SPALDING ATHLETIC 'LffiRARY /7a No. 225— How to Play First Base. No other position in a ball team has shown such a change for the better in recent years as first base. Modifications in line with the better- ment of the sport in every department have been made at intervals, but in no other depart- ment have they been so radical. No boy who plays the initial sacli can afford to overlook the points and hints contained in this book. En- tirely new and up to date. Illus- trated with full-page pictures of all the prominent first basemen. Price 10 cents. No. 226— How to Play Second Base. There are so few men who can cover second base to perfection that their names can easily be called off by anyone who follows the game of base ball. Team owners who possess such players would not part with them for thousands of dollars. These men have been inter viewed and their ideas incorporated in this book for the especial benefit of boys who want to know the fine points of play at this point of the diamond. Illustrated with full-page pictures. Price 10 cents No. 227— How to Play Third Base. Third base is, in some respects, the most impor- tant of the infield. No major league team has over won a pennant with- out a great third base- man. Collins of the Bos- ton Americans and Leach of Pittsburg are two of the greatest third base- men the game has ever seen, and their teams owe much of the credit fot pennants they have won to them. These men in this book de- scribe just how they play the posi- tion. Everything a player should know is clearly set forth and any boy will surely increase his chances of success by a careful reading of this book. Illustrated. Price 10 Ceuts. No. 228— How to Play Short- Shortstop is one of the hardest positions on the infield to fill, and quick thought and quick action are necessary for a play- er who expects to make good as a shortstop. The views of every well- known player who cov- ers this position have been sought in compiling this book, Illustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 224— How to Play tlie Outfield. Compiled especially for the young player who would become an expert. The best book on play- ing the outfield that has ever been published. There are just as many tricks to be learned, be- fore a player can be a competent fielder. a s there are in any other position on a nine, and this book explains them all. Price 10 cents. No. 231— How to Coacli; How to Captain a Team; How to Manage a Team; How to Umpire; How to Or- ganize a League; Tech- nical Terms of Base Ball. A useful guide to all who are interested in the above subjects. Jimmy Collins writes on coach- ing; M. J. Kelly on cap- taining; Al Buckenberger on managing; Frank Dwyer of the American League staff on umpir- ing; B'red Lake on minor leagues, and the editor. T. H. Mur- nane. President of the New England League, on how to organize a league. The chapters on Technical Terms of Base Ball have been written by Henry Chadwick, the "Father of Base Ball," and define the meaning of all the terms peculiar to the Na- tional Game. Price 10 cents. No. 219— Ready Reckoner of Base Ball Percentages. To supply a demand for a bo BASK BALL. AUXILIARIES. No. 291— Minor I^eagne Bsise Ball Guide. The minors' own guide. Contains pictures o f leading teams, sebedules, report of annual meeting National Association of Professional Base Ball Leagues, special articles and official rules. Edited by President T. H. Mur- nane, of the New England League. Price 10 cents. (Ready May 1.) No. 293— Official Hantlbook of tlie National League of Professional Base Ball ^^"''*^' Contains the Constitu- tion, By-Laws, Official Rules, Averages, and schedule of the Na- tional League for the current year, together with list of club offi- cers and reports of the annual meetings of the League. Every follower of the game should have a copy of this book if he wants to keep his file of Base Ball books complete. Price 10 cents. Group II. Foot Ball No. 2— Spalding's Official Foot Ball Guide. Edited by Walter Camp. Contains the new rules, with diagram of field; AU- America teams as selected by the lead- ing authorities; reviews of the game from vari- ous sections of the coun- try; 1905 scores of all the leading teams; pic- tures of hundreds of players. 10 cents. No. 2S4— How to Play Foot Ball. Edited by Walter Camp. The contents em- brace everything that a bi'ginner wants to know land many points that an |exi)ert will be ghid to I learn. The pictures are made from snapshots of ] leading teams and phiy- ers in action, with com- ments by Walter Camp. Price 10 cents. Price No. 2A— Spaldingr's Official Association Soccer Foot Ball Guide. A complete and up-to- tlate guide to the •Soccer" game in the United States, containing instructions for playing the game, official rules, and interesting news from all parts of the country. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 286— HoTv cer. to Play Soc- Owing to the great interest shown in "Soc- cer" foot ball in Amer- ica, the publishers have had a book compiled in England, the home of the sport, telling how each position should be played, written by the best play- er in England in his re- spective position, and illustrated with full-page photographs of play- ers in action. As a text-book of the game this work is invaluable, and no "Soccer" player can afford to be without it. Price 10 cents. FOOT BALL, AUXILIARIES. No. 28.3— Spalding's Official Canadian Foot Ball Guide. Edited by Frank D. Woodworth, Secretary- n'reasurer Ontario Rugby Foot Ball Union. The official book of the game in Canada. Price 10 cents. No. 294— Official Intercolle- giate Association Soccer Foot Ball Guide. Contains the constitu- tion and by-laws of the Association, pictures of tlie teams, and official laying rules. Price 10 cents. "^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY /J r- Group III. Cricket No. 3— Spaldins's Official Cricket Guide. EditL'd by Jerome Flan neiy. The most com plete year book of the game that has ever been published In America. Reports of special matches. official rules and pictures of all the leading teams. Price 10 cents. No. 277— Cricket; and How to Play it. By Prince Ranjitsinhji, Every department of the game is described concisely and illustrated with full-page pictures posed especially for this book. The best book of instruction on the game ever published. Price 10 cents. Group IV. Lawn Tennis IVo. 4— Spalding's Official Lawn Tenuiis Annual. Edited by H. P. Bur- chell, of the New York Times. Contents include a report of every impor- tant tournament played in 1906, embracing the National Championship, sectional and State tour- naments; invitation and open tournaments; inter- collegiate and interscholastic cham- pionships; women's national cham- pionships; foreign championships; in- door championships; official ranking for each year from 1885 to 1906; laws of lawn tennis; instructions for handicapping; decisions on doubtful points; regulations for the manage- ment of tournaments; directoiy of clubs; directions for laying out and keeping a court; tournament notes. Illustrated with pictures of leading players. Price 10 cents. No. l.'»7 — How^ to Play Lawn Tennis. A complete description of lawn tennis; a lesson for beginners and direc- tions telling how to make the most impor- tant strokes. Illustrated, Price 10 cents. Golf Official No. 379 — Strokes and Science of La^vn Tennis. By P. A. Vaile, a leading authority on the game in Great Britain. Every stroke in the game is accurately illus- trated and analyzed by the author. As a means of affording a compari- son between the Amer- ican and the English methods of play, this book is ex- tremely useful. Price 10 cents. Group V. No. 5— Spaldinsr's Golf Guide. The leading annual of the game in the United States. Contains rec- ords of all important tournaments, articles on the game in various sec- tions of the country, pictures of prominen players, official playing rules and general items of interest. Price 10 cts. No. 276— How to Play Golf. By James Braid, the English Open Champion of 1906. A glance at the chapter headings will give an idea of the variety and value of the contents: Beginners' wrong ideas; method of tuition; choosing the clubs; how to grip the club; stance and address in driving; the upward swing in driving, etc.; Numerous full-page pictures of Cham- pion Braid in action add to the book's attractiveness. Price 10 cts. Group VI. Hockey No. 6--Spaldinff's Official Ice Hockey Guide. Written by the most famous player in Can- ada, A. Farrell, of the Shamrock hockey team | of Montreal. It contains a complete description | (if hockey, its origin, j)oints of a good player, and an instructive ar-i tide on how game is played, with diagrams and official rules. Illustrated with pictures of leading teams. Price 10 cents. g ^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY / 7^ No. 154— Field Hockey. To those in need of vigorous and healthful out-of-doors exer c i s e, this game is recom- mended highly. Its healthful attributes are manifold and the inter- est of player and spec- tator alike is kept ac- tive through out the progress of the game. The game is prominent in the sports at Vassar, Smith, Wellesley, Bryn Mawr and other leading colleges. Price lu cents. IV o. 188 — Lawn Hockey, Garden Hockey, Parlor Hockey. Containing the rules for each game. Illus- trated. Price 10 cents. No. 180— Ring Hockey. A new game for the gymnasium, invented by Dr. J. M. Vorhees of Pratt Institute, Brook- lyn, that has sprung into instant popularity; as exciting as basket ball. This book contains official rules. Price 10 cents. HOCKEY AUXILIARY. No. 22.5<>— Official Handbook of the Ontario Hockey Association. Edited by W. A. Hew- itt, of Toronto. Con- tains the official rules of the Association, con- stitution, rules of com- petition, list of officers, and pictures of leading players. Price 10 cents. Group VII. Basket Ball No. 7— Spalding's Official Ba.sket Ball Guide. Edited by (Jeorge T. llepliron. (Nintaius the revi.sed official rules, de- cisions on disputed points, records of promi- nent teams, reports on the game from various parts of the country, and pictures of hundreds of players. Price 10 cents. No. 193— How to Play Basket Ball. By G. T. Hepbron, editor of the Official Basket Ball Guide. Con- tains full instructions for players, both for the expert and the novice, duties of officials, and specially posed full-page pictures showing the cor- rect and incorrect meth- ods of playing. The demand for a book of this character is fully satis- tied in this publication, as many points are included which could not be incorporated in the annual publi- cation of the Basket Ball Guide for want of room. Price 10 cents. No. 260— Official Basket Ball Guide for Women. __, Edited by Miss Senda ■'"'*'■ Eerenson, of Smith Col- lege. Contains the of- ficial playing rules of the game and special ar- ticles on the following subjects: Games for women, by E. Hitchcock, Director of Physical Training, and Dean of College, Amherst College; condition of women's basket ball in the Mid- dle West, by W. P. Bowen, Michigan State Normal College; psychological effects of basket ball for women, by Dr. L. H. Gulick; physiological ef- fects of basket ball, by Theodore Hough, Ph. D. ; significance of basket ball for women, by Senda Berenson; relative merit of the Y. M. C. A. rules and women's rules, by Augusta Lane Patrick; A Plea for Basket Ball, by Julie Ellsbee Sullivan. Teachers' College, New York; dia- gram of field. Illustrated with many pictures of basket ball teams. Price 10 cents. BASKET BALL, AUXILIARY. No. 278— Collegriate Basket Ball Guide. The official publication of the new Collegiate E^ Basket Ball Associa- \ tion. Contains the of- ficial rules, collegiate and high school records, All America selections, reviews of the collegiate basket ball season of 1005-6. and pictures of all the prominent college teams and individual players. Edited by H. A. Fisher, of Columbia. Price 10 cts. g=^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY //^ Group VIII. Bowling No. 8— Spalding's Official Bowling Guide. Edited by S. Karpf. Serretary of the Amer- ican Bowling Congress. The contents include: History of the sport; diagrams of effective de- liveries; how to bowl; a few hints to beginners; American Bowling Con- gress ; the national championships; how to build an al- ley; how to score; spares — how they are made. Rules for cocked, hat, cocked hat and feather, quintet, bat- tle game, nine up and nine down, head pin and four back, ten pins — head pin out. five back, the Newport game, ten pin head. Price 10 cents. ,^ Indoor Group IX. Base Ball No. 9— SpaldingrVs Official In- door Base Ball Guide. America's nat 1 o n a 1 game is now vieing with other Indoor games as a winter pastime. This book contains the play- ing rules, pictures of leading teams from all parts of the country, and interesting articles on the game by leading authorities on the subject, cents. Price 10 Group X. Polo No. 10— Spalding's Official Roller Polo Guide. Edited by J. 0. Morse. A full description of the game; oflBcial rules, rec ords. Price 10 cents. No. 129— Water Polo The contents of this book treat of every de- tail, the individual work of the players, the prac- tice of the team, how to throw the ball, with Illustrations and many valuable hints. Price 10 cents. No. 199— Equestrian Polo. Compiled by H. L, Fitzpatrick of the New York Sun. Illustrated v.ith portraits of lead- ing players and contains most useful information for polo players. Price 10 cents. _ ^^ Miscellane- GroupXI. ous Games No. 201 — Lacrosse. By William C. Schmeisser, c ai p" t a i n .Johns Hopkins Univer-| sity champion intercol- legiate lacrosse team of I 1902; edited by Ronald | T. Abercrombie, ex-cap- tain and coach of Johns Hopkins University la- crosse team, 190<)-19n4.' Every position is thoroughly ex- plained in a most simple and concise manner, rendering it the best manual of the game ever published. Illus- trated with numerous snapshots of important plays. Price 10 cents. No. 248— Archery. A new and up-to-date book on this fascinating pastime. Edited by Mr. Louis Maxson of Wash- ington, D. C, ex-Na- tional champion. Con- tains a history of arch- ery from its revival as a pastime in the eighteenth century to the present time, with list of winners and scores of the English Grand championships from 1844; National Archery Associa- tion of the United States winners and scores; the several varieties of archery; Instructions for shooting; how to select implements; how to score; and a great deal of interest- ing information on the game. Illus- trated. Price 10 cents. No. 138— Spalding's Official Croquet Guide Contains directions for] playing, diagrams of im- portant strokes, descrip- tion of grounds, instruc- tions for the beginner, terms used in the game, and the official playing rules. Price 10 cents. <^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LffiRARY/T^ IVo. 271— SpaldinR's Official Koiiiie Guide. The official publication of the National Roque Association of America Edited by Prof. Charles Jacobus, ex-cham p i o n Contains a description of the courts and their construction, diagrams of the field. illustra- tions, rules and valuable information. Price 10 cents. No. 194 — Ractiuet.s, Squash- Racquets and Court Ten- nis. The need of an au- thoritative handbook at a popular price on these games is tilled by this booli. How to play each game is thoroughly ex- plained, and all the dif- ficult strolies shown l)y special photo graphs talien especially for this boolj. Contains the official rules for each game, with photographs of well-known courts. Price iO cents. No 13— How to Play Hand Ball. By the world's cham- pion, Michael Egan, of Jersey City. This book has 'been rewritten and l)rought up to date in every particular. Every I'lay is thoroughly ex- plained by text and diagram. The numerous illustrations consist of full pages made from photographs of Champion Egan, showing him In all his characteristic attitudes. Price 10 cents. No. 167— Quoits. Hy M. W. Deshong. 'ihe need of a book on this interesting game has been felt i)y many w ho wished to know the fine points and tricks used by the experts. Mr. Deshong explains them, with illustrations, so that a novice can readily understand Price 10 cents. No. 170— Push Ball. Played with an air- infiated ball G feet in diameter, weighing about oO pounds, A side con- sists of eleven men. 'this book contains the official rules and a sketch of the game; il- lustrated. Price 10 cents. Xo. 14— Curling. A short history of this famous Scottish pastime, with instruc- tions for play, rules of the game, definitions of terms and diagrams of different shots. Price 10 cents. No. 2()7 — Bo-wling on the Green; or, LaTvn Boivls. How to construct a green; necessary equip- ment; how to play the game, and the official rules as promulgated by the Scottish Bowling Association. Edited by James W. Greig. Illus- trated. Price 10 cents. No. 188— Lawn Games. Contains the rules for Lawn Hockey. Garden Hockey, Hand Tennis, Tether Tennis; also Vol- ley Ball, Parlor Hockey, Badminton, Basket Goal. Price 10 cents. No. 189— Children's Games. Compiled by Jessie II. Bancroft, director of physical training, depart- ment of education, New York City. These games are intended for use at I'ocesses, and all but the team games have been adapted to large classes. Siiitabli> for children from three to eight years, and in- clude a great variety. Price 10 cts. <^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY /7=> Group Xn. Athletics Ko. 12— Spaldinj?*s Official Athletic Almanac. Compiled by J. E. Sul- livan, Chief Department Physical Culture, Louis- iana Purchase Exposi- tion, Director Olympic Games, 1904, Special Commissioner from the United States to the Olympic Games at Ath- ens, 1906. and President of the Amateur Athletic Union. The only annual publication now issued that contains a complete list of ama- teur best-on-records; complete inter- collegiate records; complete English records from 1866; swimming rec- ords; interscholastic records; Irish, Scotch, Continental, South African and Australasian records; important athletic events and numerous photos of individual athletes and leading athletic teams. Price 10 cents. No. 27— College Athletics. M. C. Murphy, the well-known athletic trainer, now with Penn- sylvania, the author of this book, has written it especially for the school- boy and college man, but it is invaluable for the athlete who wishes to excel in any branch of athletic sport. The subjects com- prise the following articles: Train- ing, starting, sprinting; how to train for the quarter, half, mile and longer distances; walking; high and broad jumping; hurdling; pole vaulting; throwing the hammer. It is profuse- ly illustrated with pictures of lead- ing athletes. Price 10 cents. No. 182— All-Around Ath- letics. Gives in full the method of scoring the All-Around Cham p i o n- ship, giving percentage tables showing" what each man receives for each performance in each of the ten events. It contains as well in- stnictivi' articles on how to train for the .\ll-.\round Cham- pionship. Illustrated with many pic- tures of champions in action and scores at all-around meets. Prico 10 ceQts. No. 15G— Athlete's Guide. How to become an athlete. It contains full instnictions for the be- ginner, telling how to sprint, hurdle, jump and throw weights, general hints on training; in fact, this book is one of the most complete on the subject that has ever appeared. Special chapters con- tain valuable advice to beginners and important A, A. U. rules and their explanations, while the pictures com- prise many scenes of champions in action. Price 10 cents. No. 87— Athletic Primer. Etlited by James E. Sullivan. President of the Amateur Athletic Union. Tells how to or- ganize an athletic club, how to conduct an ath- letic meeting, and gives rules for the govern- ment of athletic meet- ings; contents also in- clude directions for building a track and laying out athletic grounds, and a very instructive article on train- ing; fully illustrated with pictures of leading athletes. Price 10 cents. No. 273— The Olympic Games at Athens, 1906. A complete account of the Olympic Games of 1906. at Athens. the greatest Internati o n a 1 Athletic Contest ever held. Containing a short history of the games, story of the American team's trip and their reception at Atheni? complete list of starters in every event; winners, their times and dis- tances; the Stadium; list of winners in previous Olympic Games at Ath- ens. Paris and St. Louis, and a great deal of other interesting information. Compiled by J. E. Sullivan. Special Comraissionm- from the United States to the Olympic Games. Price 10 cts. No. 252— How to Sprint. A complete and de- tailed account of how to 11 a in for the short dis- tances. Everj- athlete who aspires to be a sprinter can study this book to advantage and gain useful knowledge. Price 10 ccntB. ^SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY/ 7^ No. 255— How to Run lOO Yards. By J. W. Morton, the noted British champion. Written by Mr. Morton during his recent Amer- ican trip, in 1905, es- pecially for boys. Mr. Morton knows how to handle his subject, and his advice and direc- tions for atta i n i n g speed, will undoubtedly be of im- mense assistance to the great ma- jority of boys who have to rely on printed instructions. Many of Mr. Morton's methods of training are novel to American athletes, but his success is the best tribute to their worth. Illustrated with photographs of Mr. Morton in action, taken es- pecially for this book in New York City. Price 10 cents. No. 174— Distance and Cross- country Running^. By George Orton, the famous University of Pennsylvania runner. Tells how to become proficient at the quar- ter, half, mile, the longer distances, and c r o s s-country running and steeplechasing. with instructions for training and schedules to be observed when preparing for a contest. Illustrated with numerous pictures of leading athletes in action, with comments by the editor on the good and bad points shown. Price 10 cents. No. 246- Athletic Training for Schoolboys. This book is the most complete work of its kind yet attempted. The compiler is Geo. W. Or- tun, of the University of Pennsylvania, a fa- mous athlete himself and who is well quail tied to give instructions io the beginner. Each event in the intercollegiate pro- gramme is treated of ser)arately, lioth as regards method of training and form. By following the direc- tions given, the young athlfte will tie sure to benefit himself without the danger of overworking as many have done through Ignorance,, rendering themselves unfitted for their task when the day of competition arrived. Price 10 cents. No. 259— Weigrht Throwing. By James S. Mitchel, Champion American weight thrower, and holder of American, Irish, British and Cana- dian champio n s h i p s. Probably no other man in the world has had the varied and long ex- perience of James S. Mitchel in the weight throwing de- partment of athletics. The book is wrltton in an instructive way, and gives valuable information not only for the novice, but for the expert as well. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 55— Official Sporting Rnles. Contains rules not found in other publica- tions for the government of many sports; rules for wrestling, shuffle- board, snowshoeing, pro- fessional racing, pigeon flying, dog racing, pistol and revolver shooting, British water polo rules, Rugby foot ball rules. Price 10 cts. ATHLETIC AUXILIARIES. No. 241— Official Handbook of the A.A.U. The A.A.U. is the governing body of ath- letes in the United States of America, and all games must be held under its rules, which are exclusively published in this handbook, and a copy should be in the hands of every athlete and every club oflScer in America. This book contains the official rules for running, jumping, weight throw- ing, hurdling, pole vaulting, swim- ming, boxing, wrestling, etc. Price 10 cents. No. 217— Olympic Handbook. Compiled by J. E. Sul- livnii. Chief Department Physical Culture, Louis- iana Purchase Exposi- tion, and Director Olym- pic Games. 1904. Con- tains a complete report of the Olympic Games of 1904, with list of records and pictures of hundreds of athletes: also reports of the games of 1806 and 1900. Price 10 cents. g>: \ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY/ 7^ No. 292— Official Intercolle- griate A.A.A.A. Handbook. Contains constitution, by-laws, laws of ath- letics and rules to gov- ern the awarding of the championship cup of the Intercollegiate Afhletic Association of Amateur Athletes of America, the governing body in college athletics. Con- tains ofBcial intercollegiate records from 1876 to date, with the winner's name and time in each event, list of points won by each college, and list of officers of the association from 1889. Price 10 cents. No. 245— Official Y.M.C.A. Handbook. Edited by G. T. Hep- bron, the w^ell-known athletic authority. It contains the official rules governing all sports un- der the jurisdiction of the Y.M.C.A., a com- plete report of the physical directors' con- ference, official Y.M.C.A. scoring tables, pentathlon rules, many pictures of the leading Y.M.C.A. athletes of the country; official Y.M. CA. athletic rules, constitution and by-laws of the Athletic League of Y.M.C.A., all-around indoor test, vol- ley ball rules; illustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 2S1— Official Handbook of the Public Schools Athletic League. This is the official handbook of the Public Schools Athletic League, which embraces all the liublic schools of Greater New York. It contains the official rules that govern all the contests of the league, and con- stitution, by-laws and officers. Edited by Dr. Luther Hal- sey Gulick, superintendent of phy- sical education in the New York public schools. Illustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 274— Intercol- legiate Cross Country Hand- book. Contains constitution and by-laws, list of of- ficers, and records of the association. Price 10 cents. Group Xm. Athletic Accomplishments No. 177— How to STvim, By J. H. Sterrett, a leading American swim- ming authority. The in- structions will interest the expert as well as the novice; the illustrations were made from photo- graphs especially posed, showing the swimmer in clear water; a valuable feature is the series of "land drill" exercises for the beginner, which is illustrated by many drawings. The contents comprise: A plea for educa- tion in swimming; swimming as an exercise and for development; land drill exercises; plain swimming; best methods of learning; the breast stroke, etc, etc Price 10 cents. No. 29(>— Speed S^vimniing. By Champion C. M. Daniels of the New York Athletic Club team, holder of numerous American records, and the best swimmer in America qualified to write on the subject. Any boy should be able to increase his speed in the water after reading Champion Daniels' instructions on the subject. Price 10 cents. No. 128- How to Row. By E. J. Giannini, of the New York A. C, one of America's most famous amateur oars- men and champi o n s. This book will instruct any one who is a lover of rowing how to be- come an expert. It ia fully illustrated, show- ing how to hold the oars, the finish of the stroke and other information that will prove valuable to the be- ginner. Price 10 cents. No. 23— Canoeing. Paddling, sailing, cruising and racing ca- noes and their uses; with hints on rig and management; the choice of a canoe; sailing ca- noes; racing regula- tions; canoe 1 n g and camping. Fully Illus- trated. Price 10 cents. '^SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY /^= No. 209— HOT*^ to Become a Skater. ('(►iitaius advice for be- giuinTs; how to become u figure sliater thorough ly explained, with many diagrams showing how do all the different •ks of the best tignre skaters. Illustrated with pictures of prominent skaters and numerous diagrams. Trice 10 cents. No. 2S2- Official Roller Skating Guide. Contains directions for becoming proficient as a fancy and trick roller skater, and rules for roller skating. Pictures of prominent trick skat- ers in action. Price 10 cents. No. 17S— Hot*- to Train for Bicycling:. (Mv(>s methods of the brst riders when train- ing for long or short distance races; hints on training. Revised and up-to-date In every particular. Price 10 cents. Group XIV. f^il No. 140— Wrestling. Catch as catch can style. By E. H. Hitch- cock. M.I)., of Cornell, and R. F. Nelligan, of Amherst College. The book contains n e a r 1 y seventy illustrations n"f the different holds, phd- tographed especially and so described that any- body who desires to become expert in wrestling can with little effort learn every one. Price 10 cents. No. IS— Fencing. By Dr. Edward Brock, of Boston, editor of the Swordsman, and a jjromi- nent amateur fencer. A >k that has stood the tosi of time, and is uni- versally acknowledged to be a standard work. Il- lustrated. Price 10 cents. No. 1G2— Boxing Gnide. For many years books hav(> l)een issued on the art of boxing, but it has remained for us to arrange a book that we think is sure to till all demands. It contains over 7(1 i)ages of illus- trations showing all the latest blows, posed es- pecially for this book under the supervision of a well-known instruc- tor of boxing, who makes a specialty of teaching and knows how to im- part his knowledge. Price 10 cents. No. 165 — Tlie Ai't of Fencing. This is a new book by Regis and Louis Senac, ook and following the instructions, can become proficient. Price 10 cents. No. 2S}>— Tumbling for Ama- teurs, ^j^jg, |,,„,j. ,^^.j^g special- ly compiled for the use of amateurs by Dr. James T. Gwathmey, director of the Vander- bilt University Gymnas- ium. Na.shville, Tenn. Every variety of the pas- time is explained by text and pictures, the latter forming a very important fea- tur<> of the hook, over 100 different positions being shown. Price 10 cts. ^SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY // No. 191— How Bag. .o Punch th.e By W. II. Rothwt'l ("Young Corbi'tt"). This book is undoubtPdly the best treatise on bag punching that has ever been printed. Every va- riety of blow used in training is shown and explained. The pictures (■ o m p rise thirty-three full page reproductions of Young Corbett as he appears while at work in his training quarters. The photo- graphsi were taken by our special ar- tist and cannot be seen in any other publication. Fancy bag punching is treated by a well-known theatrical bag puncher, who shows the latest tricks. Price 10 cents. No. 14.3— Indian Clubs Dumb-Bells. Two of the most pop- ular forms of home or gymnasium exe r c i s e. This book is written by A ni e r i ca's amateur champion club swinger, J. H. Dougherty. It is clearly illustrated, by which any novice can become an expert. Price No. 166— How to Swing In- dian Clubs. By Prof. E. B. War- man, the well-known ex- ponent of physical cul- ture. By following the directions carefully any- one can become an ex- pert. Price 10 cents. No. 200— Dumb-Bells. This is undoubtedly the best work on dumb- bells that has ever lieen offered. The author, Mr. G. Bojus. was for- merly superintendent of physical culture in the Elizabeth (N. J.) public schools, instructor at Columbia University (New York), instructor for four years at the Columbia summer school and is now proprietor of the Park Place Gymnasium, at 14 Park Place, New York City. The book contains 20i) photographs of all the various exer- cises with the instructions in large, readable type. It should be in the hands of every teacher and pupil of physical culture, and is invaluable for home exercise. Price lo cents. No. 262— Medicine Ball Ex- ercises. This book is not a technical treatise, but a series of plain and prac- tical exerci-ses with the medicine ball, suitable for boys and girls, busi- ness and professional men, in and out of gym- nasium. Lengthy ex- planation and technical nomenclature have been avoided and illustrations used instead. The exer- cises are fascinating and attractive, and avoid any semblance of drud- gery. Edited by W. J. Cromie, physical director Germantown (Pa.) "''"''" ' " ■ 10 cents. Y.M.C.A. Prict iPALDINGg No. 29— Pulley Weight Exer- cises. By Dr. Henry S. An- derson, instructor in heavy gymnastics Yale gymnasium, Ander s o ii Normal School, Chautau- qua University. In con- junction with a chest machine anyone with this book can become^ l.erfectly developed I'riee 10 cents. No. 2.3.3— Jiu Jitsu. A complete description of this famous Japanese system of self-defence. Each move thoroughly explained and illustrat- ed with numerous full- page pictures of Messrs. A. Minami and K. Ko- yama, two of the most famous exponents of the art of Jiu Jitsu, who posed espe- cially for this book. Be sure and ask for the Spalding Athletic Library book on Jiu Jitsu. Price 10^ cents. Group XV. Gymnastics No. 104— The Grading: of Gymnastic Exercises. By G. M. Martin, Hiysical Director of the Y. M. C. A. of Youngs- tf.wn, Ohio. It is a liook that should be in the hands of every phy- sical director of the Y. M. C. A., school, dub, college, etc. Price 1 ^ SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY/ ^ JVo. 214— Graded Calistlien- ics and Daiub-Bell Drills. By Albeit B. Weg- ener, Physical Director Y. M. C. A., Rochester, N. Y. Ever since gi-aded apparatus work has been used in gymnas- tics, the necessity of having a mass drill that would harmonize with it has been felt. For years it has been the established custom in most gymnasiums of memorizing a set drill, never varied from one year's end to the other. Conse- quently the beginner was given the same kind and amount as the older member. With a view to giving uni- formity the present treatise is at- tempted. Price 10 cents. No. 254 — Barnjum Bar Bell Drill. Edited by Dr. R. Tait McKenzie, Director Phy- sical Training, Univer- sity of Pennsylvania. Profusely illr'^tr a t e d. Price 10 cents. No. 158— Indoor and Outdoor Gymnastic Games. Without question one of the best books of its kind ever published. Compiled by Prof. A. M. Chesley, the well-known Y. M. C. A. physical di- rector. It is a book that will prove valuable to indoor and outdoor g y m nasiums. schools, outings and gatherings where there are a number to be amused. The games described comprise a list of 120, divided into several groups. Price lu cents. No. 124 — HovF to Become a Gymnast. By Robert Stoll, of the New York A. C, the American champion on the flying rings from 1885 to 1892. Any boy who frequents a gym- nasium can easily fol- low the illustrations and instructions in this book and with a little prac- tice become proficient on the hori- zontal and parallel bars, the trapeze or the "horse." Price lU cents. JNo. 2S7— Fancy Dumb Bell and Marching^ Drills. By W. J. Cromie, Physical Director Ger- mantown (Pa.) Y.M. C.A. The author says: All concede that games and recreative exercises during the adolescent period are preferable to set drills and monoton- ous movements. If we can introduce this game-and-play element in our gymnastic exercises, then dumb bells will cease to be the boy's nightmare, and he will look forward with expectancy to mass work as much as he formerly did to "shooting a goal." These drills, while designed primarily for boys, can be used successfully with girls and men and women. Profusely il- lustrated. Price lu cents. Group XVL Physical Culture No. 161— Ten Minutes' Exer- cise for Busy Men. By Dr. Luther Halsey Gulick, Director of Phy- sical Training in the New Y'ork public schools. Anyone who is looking for a concise and com- plete course of physical education at home would do well to procure a copy of this book. Ten minutes' work as directed in exercise anyone can follow. It already has had a large sale and hasi been highly recommended by all who have fol- lowed its instructions. Price 10 cts. No. 20S— Pliysical Education and Hygiene. This is the fifth of the Physical Training series, by Prof. E. B. Warman (see Nos. 142, 149, 166, 185, 213, 261, 290). A glance at the contents will show the variety of subjects: Chap- ter I — Basic principles; longevity. Chapter II — Hints on eating; food values; the uses of salt. Chapter III — Medicinal value of certain foods. Chapter IV — The eflicacy of sugar; sugar, food for muscular work; eating for strength and endurance; fish as brain food; food for the children. Chapter V — Digestibility; bread; ap- pendicitis due to flour, etc., etc Price 10 cents. g^ N^PM^ G ATHLETIC LIBRARY /P ^m No, 149— The Care of the Body. A book that all who vjilue health should read and follow its instruc- tions. By Prof. B. B. W a r m a n, the well- known lecturer and au- thority on physical cul- ture. Price 10 cents. No. 143— Physical Training Simplified. By Prof. E. B. War- man, the well-known physical culture expert. Is a complete, thorough and practical book where the whole man Is con- sidered — brain and body. Price 10 cents. No. 185— Health Hints. By Prof. E.IB. Warman. the well-known lecturer and authority on physi- cal culture. Prof. War- man treats very inter- estingly of health in- fluenced by insulation ; health influenced by un^ derwear; health influenced by color; exercise. Price 10 cents. No. 213-285 Health Answers. By Prof. E. B. Warman. Contents: Necess i t y for exercise in the sum- mer; three rules for bi- cycling; when going up- hill; sitting out on sum- mer nights; ventilating a bedroom; ventilating a bouse; how to obtain lure air; bathing; salt water baths at home; a substitute for ice water; to cure in Bomnia; etc., etc. Price 10 cents. No. 238— Mnscle Bnilding. By Dr. L. H. Gulick Director of Physi c a 1 Training in the New York public schools. A complete treatise on the correct method of ac- quiring strength. Illus- trated, Price 10 cents. No. 2.34— School Tactics and Maze Running. A series of drills for the use of schools. Edited by Dr. Luther Halsey Gulick, Director of Physical Training in the New York public schools. Price 10 cents. No. 261— Tensing Exercises. By Prof. E. B. War- man, and uniform with his other publications on Scientific Physical Train- ing (see Spalding's Ath- letic Library Nos. 142, 149, 166, 185, 208, 213, 290). The "Tensing" or "Resisting" system of muscular exercises is the most thorough, the most complete, the most satisfactory, and the most fascinating of systems. Price 10 cts. No. 285— Health; by Muscu- lar Gymnastics. With hints on Right Living. By W. J. Cromie, Physical Direc- tor Germantown (Pa.) Y.M.C.A. The author says: "Seeing the great need for exercise among the masses and knowing that most books on the subject are too expen- sive or too difficult to comprehend, the author felt it his privilege to write one which is simple and the price of which is within the reach of all. If one will practise the exercises and observe the hints there- in contained, he will be amply re- paid for so doing." Price 10 cents. No. 288— Indigestion Treated by Gymnastics By W. J. Cromie, Physical Director Ger- mantown (Pa.) Y.M. C.A. This book deals with the causes, symp- toms and treatment of constipation and indi- gestion. It embraces diet, water cure, mental culture, massage and photographic illustrations of exer- cises which tend to cure the above diseases. If the hints therein con- tained are observed and the exercises faithfully performed, most forms of the above diseases will be helped. Price 10 cents. No# 290— Get "Well Well. This is a series of chapters by Prof. E. B. Warman. the author of a number of books in t h e Spalding Athletic Library on physical train- ing. The subjects are all written in a clear and convincing style. Price 10 cents. Kee James Braid, Open Champion. I I SPALDING ATHLETIC LIBRARY (C, Group V No. 276 How to Play Golf By JAMES BRAID English Open Champion. 1901, 1905. 1906" And HARRY VARDON English Open Champion, 1896, 1898, 1899. 1903 American Open Champion, 1900 o(??)(^J)o Published by AMERICAN SPORTS PUBLISHING COMPANY 21 Warren Street, New York Copyright. 1907, by Amei-ican Sports Publishing Company Two OoDlftS Wc«;^'Vi5d ; JUL S J90? 5 _ \|^- ^ ; ANNOUNCEMENT ,: Wri, We publish herewith with the consent of the British Sports Pubhshing Company, Ltd., of London, England, their copy- righted book "How to Play Golf," by James Braid, English Open Champion of IQOI, 1905 and 1906. Braid's book has had an enormous sale throughout Great Britain and on the Continent, and it is admitted to be by golf experts the best book of its kind ever published, "Golfing," the leading British publication on the game of golf, says: "Simply and straightforwardly written, Champion Braid's book contains more solid and useful information to the square inch than you will find in nine out of ten treatises on golf brought out at a much higher price. Though Braid himself would probably be the first man to disclaim any literary style for his little efifort, the style is there, nevertheless, direct, honest, and to the point, like the game of golf played by the man who wrote it. * * * It is a plain and lucid book of practical instructions, penned without a suggestion of literary frills, and illustrated with some capital photographs and diagrams." In addition to the Braid article a chapter by Harry Vardon on how to play the game is also included. It is a lucid and instruc- tive contribution and is illustrated with pictures of Vardon in all his characteristic attitudes wh'^r? playing. We venture to say • • • that in no other publication cfafi be found the teachings of such famous exemplars of the royal and ancient game as are James Braid and Harry Vardon. American Sports Publishing Co. CONTENTS PAGE I. Beginners' Wrong Ideas ... 6 II. Method of Tuition 13 III. Choosing the Clubs 17 IV. How to Grip the Club . 23 V. Stance and Address in Driving. 31 VI. The Upward Swing in Driving. 41 VII. The Top of the Swing . 47 VIII. The Downward Swing 52 IX. Finishing the Stroke 55 X. The Long Ball . 61 XI. Pulling and Slicing 67 XII. Playing in the Wind 71 XIII. BrasseyPlay 74 XIV. Play with Iron Clubs 79 XV. Cleek Shots 87 XVI. The Iron . 97 XVII. The Running-up Shot 100 XVIII. The Mashie 103 XIX. The Niblick III XX. Putting . 119 XXI. Playing the Round 123 XXII. Through the Year 127 Harry Vardon Tells How to Play Golf 139 The Ideal Course . 155 The Triumvirate . • 157 Spalding's Athletic Library, 1. BEGINNERS' WRONG IDEAS. When a man first decides that he will devote himself to the game of golf he has generally something to unlearn at the very outset, even though he has never attempted to strike a ball with a driver in his life. In nine cases out of ten he must abandon all his preconceived notions about the game. He must reaHse that so far from being the easy thing to play that it seems when one watches a capable exponent driving long balls and placing short shots quite near to the hole almost every time, it is an exceedingly difficult thing, and that pro- ficiency, even in the case of the most athletic and adaptable persons, is only to be acquired as the result of years of the most patient and painstaking practice and of the most careful thought and study of the scientific side of the game. No game demands more scientific accuracy than golf, and there is no game in which shots that are not well played more surely meet with their just punishment. In the reverse there is no game in which small degrees of skill count more regu- larly in favour of the man who possesses them. The things that look easiest in golf are generally the hardest, and it some- times takes a man years to learn properly how to raise his club upwards in the swing back before striking the ball— in fact some players go through a lifetime without acquiring the proper method, and their game throughout suffers accordingly. Spalding'' s Athletic Library. -y If the beginner can be brought to reahse this simple truth about the difficulty of the game, and of the necessity of taking it most seriously, he will have gained a great deal. One may then tell him that despite all the drudgery of painstaking practice that he will have to undergo, and the thousands of severe disappointments that he must inevitably endure, it does not follow that all the period of his studentship will be dull and uninteresting. It will be far from that. The game will interest him and fascinate him almost as much after his first few lessons as it will do in many after-years. He will find that it is its disappointments and difficulties that make it a game so well worth the playing ; and that, while he will be intensely aggravated on some days because he can do nothing right and because it seems that he has forgotten everything that he had learned in months before, he will be corre- spondingly elated when the skill that he has acquired comes back to him, as it always does, with a little bit added to it as the reward of his persistence. The golfer finds himself so constantly and keenly ambitious as does the player of no other game. He may be indifferent as to how well or badly he plays other games in which he con- stantly takes part so long as he can play them in such a manner as " not to make a fool of himself," as he would put it, and when he first thinks he will take up golf that may be his attitude towards it, and he may say to himself that if he gets the exercise and the fresh air that is all that he wants. But he will speedily find, as every one before him has done, that in spite of himself he will soon be yearning for more and more skill, and that never throughout his golfing life will he ever be satisfied. The men who have won championships still g Spalding's Athletic Library, realise their weaknesses and long for more skill just as much as the beginner who even finds it to be a matter of difficulty to hit the ball at all when taking a full swing at it with a driver. As I have just said, the man who has brought himself under advice to this attitude towards the game at the outset of his career on the links will have gained something, and he will have done it in two ways. He will come to understand that it would be rather too dangerous for him to try to learn the game alone and unaided by any competent teacher, as do many grown-up people, who ought to know better. Un- directed in their choice they buy a few clubs for themselves, and with very little notion about how to address and hit the ball they go out on to the links, and flounder about for months with very little improvement in their play, and with far less satisfaction to themselves than if they were making some kind of progress or were conscious that even now and again they made a shot properly. In due course they challenge other players to have matches with them, and when these engagements are confined to opponents who have learned their game in the same way all is well ; but nothing is more annoying to a careful and thorough golfer who goes about his golf in the right way and takes some sort of a pride in it, than to be matched with a man who is palpably ignorant of the most elementary principles of the game, though he would not admit it ; and he takes care that, so far as he has control over such matters, he will avoid such a match in the future. In his after-life this haphazard player, who taught himself and makes it his boast that he had only one lesson in his life, will probably come to wish that he had Spalding's Athletic Library. g had more and that he had built his game on a sound founda- tion. These regrets are inevitable. The golf world is over- populated with persons who wish they had commenced to play in the proper way. Consequently the wise man who has respect for the game before he plays it will take as much advice and coaching as he can ^^i, and he will be content to begin in the most elementary way, and will not mind any amount of drudgery in the way of practising swings and particular shots before he tries to make a complete round of the links. Nothing is more important than this complete practice of the smallest details at the very beginning, for it is generally the case that habits made at this stage, whether good or bad, will keep to the player for long afterwards, if not for ever. Therefore it is of the utmost importance that the style that he cultivates now should be as good and correct as possible. There is a variety of other preconceived fancies of which the beginner will do well to get rid before he goes to the links for the first time. A clear understanding of the prin- ciples involved in their rejection will help him considerably. For example, in most other games that one can call to mind it is the case that the harder the ball is struck the farther will it travel. This is not nearly such a general principle in golf. If the stroke is absolutely accurate in every respect, and it is a plain, simple drive that is being attempted, then, no doubt, the more power that is put into the drive, if it is put in at the right time and in the right way, the farther will the ball travel. But except in the case of players of many years' experience and of great proficiency it seldom happens that the driving strokes, which are very complicated, are TO Spa/di flip's ^ilhlctic Library. made so accurately, and when Ihcy arc not it is the most dan- gerous thing to hit hard with all one's strength at a ball, or to "press" as it is called. Nobody who has not had to deal with one can imagine what a wayward thing is a golf ball. It has capacities that nobody would suspect or even believe until after experience of them, and it has especially an enor- mous one for going in a different direction from that in which the stroke was aimed and in which it was desired to despatch the ball. Sometimes it is to the right and some- times to the left, and in either of these cases it will happen that the harder the ball is hit the shorter will be the distance that it will travel in the desired line. Therefore let the beginner realise that this is not a game for the display of his strength, and even after he has acquired great proficiency — as we hope he will — he will find that the gentler stroke per- fectly made and timed will pay quite as well for all practical purposes as the one that was made with all the force at the disposal of the player — in fact, in the course of a long and hard match it will probably pay much better. Often enough it will get the ball farther down the course, and it will be infinitely more reliable. In saying this I must not be under- stood to mean that the very longest driving, which is undoubtedly useful and necessary if one covets the high honours of golf, is not to be obtained without the application of considerable physical strength ; but not one young player in a hundred can apply that strength with safety to his game, and he must wait for length in his driving to come of its own accord, as it will do if it ever comes, meanwhile being content with the comparatively gentle game which is so sure. Spalding's Athletic Library. ii VARIETY OF THE GAME. Another thing that the beginner must be brought to under- stand on his first day on the hnks, is that with the exception of tee shots, and not always then, there are no two shots in the game that are exactly similar in all respects, and that a man may play a whole round and find it necessary to make a pronounced difference in every stroke played in it if he is capable of such a thing. No game affords more variety in this respect, though to the eye of the uninitiated the process of working the ball from the tee to the hole seems to contain no variety at all except in the degree of force which is applied to the stroke. He must then understand that the method of playing with the various clubs differs in each case. When he has mastered one club he will still be profoundly ignorant of how to manipulate another. Generally speaking, there is a certain amount of similarity with the play of all wooden clubs, which are chiefly intended to despatch the ball great lengths, and also there is some similarity between the play with different iron clubs which are principally, though not always, used when accuracy in approaching the hole is required more than any great length of the stroke. But there are very wide differences between the play with the wooden clubs and that with the iron ones, and any attempt to use them according to a uniform system, as the untutored beginner would be naturally inclined to do, would be certain to end in nothing but disaster. In the play with wooden clubs the ball is swept from its resting-place in the course of the long swing of the club, and it is, so to speak, merely an incident of the stroke that the ball is there to be carried along with the club-head. The face of 12 Spaldijig's Athletic Library. the driver or brassey is carefully aimed at it, and of course the utmost care has to be taken that it is brought into proper and accurate contact with it ; but this is done by the regulation of the other parts of the swing before the club gets anywhere near the ball, and it is of the utmost importance that after striking the ball, the club should be allowed to go through to the finish of the stroke, in a sense as if nothing had happened. In the general understanding of the term the ball is not hit ; it is simply swept away. But in the case of the play with the iron clubs the stroke is distinctly a hit, and, excepting so far as it shows whether the stroke was properly made or not, it matters very little what happens after the ball has left the club. There is, then, this great difference between the two classes of shots, and there are other differences of a minor but still important character between the play with the various clubs in each class. For example, the play with the mashie, which is the tool generally employed when it is desired to lift the ball fairly high up into the air so that when it drops it will not run very far and so that therefore its final resting-place can be most accurately judged, is a whole art and science in itself. The beginner will have gained something when he properly appreciates these points. Spalding's Athletic Library. 13 II. METHOD OF TUITION. It is evident that like all other players of my experience I attach the greatest possible importance to being properly taught from the beginning, and the only exception that I make is in the case of young boys, who, to my mind, really need no tuition at all, despite all the difficulties of the game, and the intricate character of the shots that are played in it. Boys are very adaptive, and if they have the opportunity of seeing good players on the links they very soon imitate them and play in the same way. I should think it is the best thing to let them fall into their own natural style in this way rather than force any particular system on them. If a young boy has got any golf in him he will be able to get it out unaided in the ordinary course. But when he has left school before he first begins to play the case is different, and he must then put himself in the hands of a tutor who will do the best that is possible with him. In a general way the later in life a man begins to play the more artificial and forced is his style, and therefore the more remote are his prospects of ever attaining the hall-mark of proficiency which is indicated in being a scratch player. But it does not by any means follow that a player must begin early in order to play a fine game, for championships have been won by players who never saw a golf bah until they were approaching middle age. In any 14 S/a/i/if/i^'s Athletic Li/>rcuy case, whether tbcy begin early or late in Hfc, players derive an almost equal enjoyment from the game, and in most cases tliat is everything. One might add that great skill at other games does not necessarily indicate bright prospects of success at golf. To be sure the man who is athletic and adaptable ought to have a pull over others ; but it is surprising in what a large number of cases he fails to show that he has. Most people come to golf from cricket, and it is imagined that cricket is a first- class training for it. So it is up to a certain point ; but the cricketer has to make up his mind that when he is on the links he is no cricketer and knows nothing of any other game than that which he has in hand at the moment. If he appHes any of his cricket methods to golf he will find himself in trouble, and the cricket stroke in the drive is one of the worst things ever seen on the links, and one of the hardest faults to get out of. One often finds that a gcod billiard player makes a good golfer, because he has such a full appreciation of the different effects upon a little ball according to the precise manner in which it is struck. And Uie superior training of his eye stands him in very good stead on the putting greens. There are two other things for the beginner to bear in mind. The first is that though golf ma}^ not be a violent exercise like cricket or football or tennis, it is nevertheless a game which makes many demands on a man's physique, that is if he plays it to any considerable extent. Let it be borne in mind that a man w^ho plays two matches of eighteen holes in a day has necessarily walked the best part of ten miles in doing so, and that he has made somewhere about a couple of hundred body movements in the swinging of his clubs. He will not be able spa/ding's Athletic Lihran 15 to do this with the greatest amount of pleasure to himself unless he takes ordinary precautions to keep himself lit and in the best condition of body and nerve. The last piece of advice I have to give to the beginner before sending him out with his clubs is to make it a principle with himself in his early days to play a little and to think a lot. Golf is a game requiring an enormous amount of thought, and unless the player can always ascertain exactly what is the reason for his faults and what is the reason for his method of remedying them he will never make much progress. The more he thinks out the game for himself the better he will get on at it, and it is when he is doing so that this little volume will be most useful as containing the main principles of correct play set down with as much simpHcity and lucidity as I am capable of. I think that every player who is not a boy should take his lessons from a teacher ; but a sound book on golf will be of great use to him for study when he is off the links and is reflecting on the things that happened the last time he was there. Short and simple as it is, the man who can bring himself to do everything just as I tell him in this book will have arrived at that stage when he will require very little instruction from any one. I am not going nito the fine points of the game, such as intentional slicing, pulling, and so forth, because it may be years before the beginner is ready for such advanced instruction, and at the outset he will find his time quite sufficiently occupied in preventing that pulling and slicing which are not intentional and which threaten to spoil his game. JAMES BRAID S CLUBS. (Names of Clubs reading from left to right.) Driver. Brassie. Cleek. Iron. Mashic. Niblick. Putter. See Chapter III. Spalding^ s Athletic Library. ip III. CHOOSING THE CLUBS. My first word of advice is to buy no clubs at all, except under the most competent advice, until you know something about the game, and to buy as few as possible until you feel that you know a great deal about it, and really understand what it is that you are buying. The professional or other instructor who gives you your first lessons in the game will be the best man to fit you out ; but at some of the best golf stores there are very competent golfers in charge, who have a sufficient sense of the responsibility of their business not to thrust upon the beginner tools that will be of very little use to him even if they will not prove harmful. But the intending player must be very careful as to whom he deals with in this way. It is a great mistake to join a golf club and buy a set of clubs, as so many people do, before the first visit to the course is made, with the mistaken idea that they will be all ready and fitted out on their arrival at the links. The professional will very soon size up his man, and supply him with what is most adapted to his requirements. There are, however, some general principles governing the selection of clubs for different players which I may set down here. First I would say that for any class of player I do not favour featherweight clubs. A golf-club, after all, is not a very heavy thing, and even the very lightest players, and those who have 1 8 Spalding's Athletic Library. the least physical strength must be quite capable of swinging a tolerably heavy club with a good deal of effect. Mind, I am not advocating really heavy clubs for all sorts and conditions of players ; but I am merely urging that because a man is physically slender it does not follow that he must have lighter clubs than other men. As a general rule they are not so steady and reliable in the hands of a player as heavier clubs are. To some extent opinion in the golf world changes from time to time as to which is the better, short clubs or long ones. Sometimes there is a craze for clubs with very long shafts, and this fancy reached a very exaggerated stage a little while ago, when some players went in for what were called fishing-rod drivers. In my opinion they gain very little, if anything, in length, and it is inevitable, no matter how clever they are, that they must lose something in accuracy. However, in these matters much depends on fancy, and I will only say that for my own part I rather advocate a club on the short side, because I think it is very much safer in the hands of all classes of players, and ensures far more accuracy than can be gained with the long- shafted tools. Most particular attention should be paid to what is called the lie of the clubs that are chosen. By this is meant the angle which the bottom of the blade, or the sole of the club, makes with th2 shaft. It will be evident that according to the angle at which the shaft of the club is held by the player when he is preparing to make his stroke, so will the sole of the club lie evenly on the ground, or with either its toe or its heel raised up above it as the case may be. Now in all cases except one — which I shall point out in due course — it is essential for the proper making of the stroke that the club should be laid thus Spalding^s Athletic Library. 19 evenly on the ground ; if it is not the ball will not be taken properly, and something is sure to go wrong with the stroke. The question is as to whether the player must move himself nearer or farther from the ball so as to get his club to the right angle, or whether he must have different clubs to suit the distance at which he feels most comfortable. The latter is the only proper course. Every player will find that he feels more comfortable and in a better working position when he stands at a particular distance from the ball, having regard to the kind of club which he has in his hands at the time, and he should have clubs chosen for him so that when he stands at this distance their soles lie evenly on the turf. Generally a tall man, who will not want to lean out very far in making his stroke, will fmd that in the natural order of things he will hold his club very upright, and consequently he will want clubs with what we call upright lies, that is clubs which have the angles formed between the soles and the shafts rather sharper — a little nearer to right angles — than in the case of others. Short men, on the other hand, will want clubs with flat lies, as they are called, that is to say clubs in which the angle just referred to is very much wider. The selection of clubs with proper lies is of great importance, and it is above all necessary that the different clubs in a set should have lies to match, and should not be all different from each other. When the latter is the case, as so often happens with inexperienced players, either the player has constantly to accommodate himself to his various clubs and change his position according to each of them, when it should not be necessary to do so (a course of procedure which will spoil all the confidence and accuracy of his play), or else for many of his shots he will be playing his clubs in a way that does 20 Spalding'' s Athletic Library. not suit them and from which good results are next to im- possible. Players very often blame clubs for their own inferior play when they are not justified in doing so; but it does frequently happen that players have clubs with lies which do not suit them, and this is often the unsuspected cause of constant failure with implements which look to be the very perfection of their class. Questions as to the length of the face, and the depth of it, and the amount of loft on the various clubs, can only be satis- factorily settled after a little experience, as what will suit one player in this way will not suit another. I may say, however, that I am not very much of a believer in the very short faces on wooden clubs which have been so fashionable during the last few years. I don't see that there is any gain in them, and if there is no gain it is more than likely that there is some loss. Much depends on the build of a man as to what kind of clubs he should be fitted out with. An entirely different kind of club should be placed in the hands of the free-limbed, athletic man from that which is given to the stiffly built man to play with. The latter plays more from his shoulders, and is unable to twist his body round so easily for the purpose of swinging the club. It follows, therefore, that he usually makes a much shorter swing — a kind of half swing — and when that is the case it is advisable to give him a rather heavier club than usual, in order that he may get a full amount of force into his stroke. On the other hand, the loosely built man, who will naturally go in for a very free and full swing, may have rather lighter clubs. Whatever the beginner is provided with at the outset, he is Spalding^ s Athletic Library. 21 almost sure to change as he gets on at the game and finds out more exactly what his own tastes and preferences are, and with what particular sorts of clubs he can get the best results. Therefore, in view of these likely changes it will be best for him to limit his choice of clubs at the very outset to the fewest possible. He will need a driver, a brassey (which he can do without for the first week or two), an iron, a mashie, a niblick, and a putter. For the first lesson or two he will not really need more than the driver and possibly an iron, and the longer he defers the purchase of the various articles in his kit the more is he likely to be satisfied with them when he does purchase them. The young player, however, must be warned against bringing himself to the conclusion, in his early days of golf, that when he plays badly it is the fault of his clubs, and against forthwith going to the shop to buy more, with which he is certain he will do better. It is extremely unlikely that the disasters that occur to every beginner are in the least degree the fault of the clubs, and the player will only get himself into a quandary if he allows himself to think so. After he has got going at the game he may need one or two more new clubs, principally a cleek. Position of Hands and Fingers for the Overlapping Grip. See Chapter IV. Spalding's Athletic Library. 23 iv. HOW TO GRIP THE CLUB. The first thing the beginner will have to learn is how to grip his club properly preparatory to making a stroke, and this is not quite the simple matter that it may appear at the first glance. There are many golfers of considerable experience who do not grip their clubs in the right manner, and they are suffering accordingly. During the last few years a new kind of grip has been making itself exceedingly popular, and it is now used by most of the players who have attained championship honours. It is what they call the overlapping grip. In taking hold of the club the two hands are brought so close together that the right one, which is the lower of the two, actually partly overlaps the left one, that is to say some of the fingers of the former ride on the top of the fingers of the other. For those who can use it properly this grip has many advantages, the chief of which is that there is never any doubt as to the proper amount of work to be done by each hand, since, to a very large extent, the two hands work together as one. When he gets on in the game the player will find that one of his chief difficulties from time to time is properly to apportion the amount tef work and responsibility to each hand, and when the business is not properly shared the Stroke goes wrong. Sometimes it is necessary that the right hand should be the controlling factor, and sometimes the left, that is when the two hands arc held apart as in the ordinary Another view of the Hands and P^ingers in the Overlapping Grip. See Chapter IV. » Spalding^ s Athletic Library, 25 grip. Most of the difficulties arising from this state of affairs are obviated in the case of the overlapping grip, and when one has become accustomed to its use it is very easy and comfortable and never give^ any trouble. Taylor, Harry Vardon, and I all use this kind of grip. Those who have started golf with the other one, and now, perhaps later on in their careers, are desirous of making a change to the overlapping grip because they have heard so much about it and because the idea of it appeals to them, should bear one thing in mind, and that is that it will not suit every one — a warning which it seems to me has not been given often enough. Excellent as are the advantages of this way of holding the club, there are some players in whose case it would be mere folly and waste of time trying to cultivate it, and in fact one sometimes sees players persevering with it in the most diligent manner and all the time playing a much worse game than usual in consequence, because of a vain hope that they will sometime reap great benefits from it. What it is absolutely essential the player should have for this grip are very strong fingers, which are at the same time probably a little above the average in length. With fingers of medium strength good results cannot be achieved with the overlapping grip, and it will at the same time be far more comfortable and satisfactory to keep to the old-fashioned system to which many of the best players still adhere and to vvhich there are no objections when it is r^ot abused in any way. But if there is no reason on this score why the player should not adopt the overlapping grip, and he desires to do so, it may be recommended with all possible confidence, and by way of introducing it to the reader he may be referred to the Position of Hands and Fingers for the Ordinary two " V " Grip. See Chapter IV. Spalding'' s Athletic Library. 27 photographs of it, which will give him a very clear idea of what it is and how it is made. It will be noticed that my left hand grips the club well over the top of the shaft, and it grips it firmly with all the fingers. My thumb rests against the side of the shaft, and I might remark here that in the case of the right hand also the thumb is more against the side of the shaft than on the top of it, this con- stituting a slight difference from the grips taken by other well- known players. It is largely a matter of fancy, and some people maintain that by keeping their thumbs almost, if not completely, on the top of the shafts they keep a better control during the swing ; but I have found the opposite to be the case. Having got my left hand in position to begin with, I apply the right hand to the club so that the latter lies in the joint of the first finger. The two first fingers grip well hold of this club, the third finger does very little, and the little one rests on the top of the first finger of the left hand, thus effecting the coupling of the two hands. When the grip is complete the left thumb is pressed against the side of the shaft by the ball of the right hand. The whole grip must be very firm and such as to ensure a complete command over the club in every respect ; but the player must be cautioned against making it too tight, so that the muscles of the wrist and forearm are stiffened up as they are when unusual pressure is employed by the hands in gripping. It is these muscles which have to do much of the work in swinging the club, and it would be fatal to make them so taut as to be more or less unworkable. The other kind of grip, which is the one most generally in use, is very easily explained. The club is gripped in the simplest possible manner, the left hand above the right, and when this is 28 Spalding's Athletic Library. done and both hands are brought quite close together so that there is not a fraction of space between them, there is only one particular in which the novice can possibly go wrong. His first instinct would, no doubt, be to take hold of the club in the same way that he would seize anything else that he wanted to wield, and this way would generally consist of each hand being applied sideways to the handle, as it were, so that both sets of finger- nails would come up on the top. This would be quite wrong, and a proper swing would be quite impossible with such a grip. The right hand should be brought much more round on to the top of the shaft, and the left hand should be turned in to meet it as it were, so that the arch formed by the join of the first finger with the thumb in each case is almost directly over the centre of the shaft. Because of this being the guide to the proper way of gripping, the old-fashioned method as thus described is often called the two-V grip. See page 22. In this case again different players have different fancies as to where the thumbs should be, and in different cases you find one or other, or both of them, on the top of the shaft ; but as before I am of opinion that the best place for them is the side. Make the grip as nearly as possible in the middle of the leather on the handle of the club, with about the same amount of it projecting at each end. One does not get the proper balance of the club and cannot employ it with the same effect if the grip is made right at the bottom, as players sometimes make it when they are off their game and go groping about in all directions for a remedy for the faults that they commit. In such cases it sometimes happens that temporarily a very low grip effects a great improvement ; but it is altogether wrong and will sooner or later bring trouble on the player. I would earnestly Spalding'' s Athletic Library. 29 advise him therefore to avoid such expedients. In the same way you should not grasp the leather right at the top end, as then you feel a complete loss of control over the club. It should be remembered that the surface of the leather should be kept in such a state as to afford a perfectly secure grip to the hands. For this reason it should not be soft and smooth, but should have a little bite. If it should be made of ordinary leather it will need to be rubbed occasionally with pitch or wax ; but latterly a kind of American cloth has been largely used for these handle coverings, and very delightful it is for such use, giving a cool and very firm grip. Its only disadvantage is that it does not wear very well. Rubber grips are popular with some players, though not so much so as they used to be. They often split and give way at the ends, and then shrink up all at once so that the club is practically useless for the rest of the round, which may sometimes be a very serious matter. Also they are very dangerous in wet weather, for then they become very slip- pery, and it is next to impossible to keep the hands tight on them. There are tales of championships having been lost through this cause. I might add that the same system of gripping the club should be carried out uniformly in the case of all the different clubs which the player employs, and the only variation is in the degree of tightness with which the right hand is held. These variations I will explain in their proper place. Some players, however, who cannot master the overlapping grip for their other strokes where force is required more or less, use it in putting, and there is no objection to their doing so if they think it helps them, as it may very conceivably do. 7 A 6 (b 5 ^ ^' 2 V 'J^ STANCES FOR STROKES. Showing comparatively the different positions of each foot for play with different clubs. The figures on the left of the vertical line each represent positions of the left foot, and those on the right side the corresponding positions of the right foot. The strokes indicated are as follows : — 1, I Ordinary drive. 2, 2 Playing for a pull with driver. 3, 3 Playing for a shie with driver. 4, 4 Full cleek shot. 5, 5 Full iron shot. 6, 6 Full mashie shot. 7, 7 Putting. Spalding's Athletic Library. 31 V. STANCE AND ADDRESS IN DRIVING. The way in which a golfer stands to his ball, and the dis- tance which his feet are from each other and from the ball are called the stance, and the stance varies with each different kind of shot that it is desired to make. When a player has taken up his stance and is preparing to hit the ball he is; said to be addressing it. The first shot that is played in the round is the drive, and it is needed from the teeing ground at most of the holes on the way round. In many respects it is the most fascinating shot in the whole of golf, and there is none which gives the golfer so much pleasure as a fine drive, in which the ball is sent along in a dead straight line, or with just such a suspicion of pull on it as to help its length. The golfer always knows when the ball has gone quite sweetly off his club, and when every ounce and grain that he put into the stroke were taken by the ball. It has become the fashion in some quarters to try to make out that long driving is not of so much importance as it has been made out to be, and that players need not make any great efforts to attain it. To that statement one has to reply that while long driving is certainly not everything, and that a player should never sacrifice such accuracy and steadiness as he is capable of in order to accomplish it, still it makes every remaining stroke in the playing of the hole easier and Spalding''s Athletic Library. -^"^ more certain, and consequently it must necessarily happen that now and again a whole stroke is saved. I therefore say that while short drivers have done great things, and that while there is no reason why they should not do them again, especially now that they are so much helped by the rubber- cored balls, still I think a man can rarely become a really great player unless he is at all events a fairly long driver. As I suggested in the opening pages of this little work, it is more Hkely to come through great accuracy and the most perfect timing combined with a reasonable exertion of strength than as the result of muscular effort pUre and simple. When the player makes his drive from the tee he is allowed to have most things in his favour, and consequently it is per- mitted to him to place his ball on a tiny eminence, usually made of sand, which is called teeing it. His club-head, there- fore, has a clean sweep at the ball with no obstructions sur- rounding it. He can make his tee anywhere on the teeing ground within the recognised limits, and he should take advan- tage of this latitude in selecting a place whefe his feet will have a secure hold from heel to toe, where the feet will be level with each other, and where the ball will be as nearly as possible on a level patch of ground. A slight inclination one way or the other so as to cause a hanging lie, as it is called, will materially affect the stroke. It is not always a good thing to tee in just the same place as others have done before you, as indicated by the sand they have left behind. The tee in that place is often rough and slippery after such constant use. Care should also be taken to tee the ball in a place where everything about it is smooth and even. A cigarette stump, a piece of paper, or a match stalk might be 34 Spalding's Athletic Library. quite sufficient to distract the eye when the downward swing was being made, with tlie result that the stroke would be ahnost certainly spoiled. F^or the same reason it is not a good thing to tee up very near to the teeing-box. Tee in such a place that the very narrow field of vision which is afforded to the eye when it is fixed on the ball includes nothing except the tee and the bare turf. The tee should be as low as is consistent with the club taking the ball without any impedi- ment. Many players make the mistake of teeing too high. Then comes the great question as to how exactly the player shall stand when he is getting ready for his stroke and while he is making it. This is a matter of vast importance, inas- much as the success or failure of the stroke depends largely on it, and it is surprising what an effect a variation of an inch or two in the position of one or other of the feet will have upon the way in which the ball is hit and the subse- quent flight of it. The player should take the greatest pains to find out exactly what stance suits him best for the different strokes, and skould be sure that this stance is theoretically justifiable. No very hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, and there is some margin for individual peculiarities, for almost all the leading players vary to some slight extent in this respect. Still there are certain general principles to be obeyed, and if the golfer attempts to defy them because he thinks he can do better in his own way, he is sure to be sorry for it before he has had any very lengthy experience on the links. When he has found the right stance for each stroke he should stick to it, even when he is temporarily off his game and is inclined to try all sorts of dodges in order to get back to it, and he should not give up his stance for Spalding^s Athletic Library. ^e another one until after the gravest consideration, and having quite satisfied himself that what he is doing is for the best. Now it is impossible to give any definite instruction as to how far in feet and inches the player should stand from the ball, as it is obvious that this must largely depend on his height and the length of his reach. As I am six feet two in height it would be little use for me to tell a player who was only five feet seven how far my feet are from the ball when I am addressing it, because it would be wrong for him to stand so far away, and even in the case of players of the same stature and length of reach there are slight variations which are permissible. As a general rule, however, the player should stand just so far from the ball that when the face of the club is laid against it the end of the shaft just reaches to his left knee when the latter has just the suspicion of a bend in it. Standing at this distance he will be able to make his stroke freely and comfortably and with accuracy, not having to overreach himself on the one hand or cramp himself on the other. Then as to the relative positions of the feet, there are two distinct systems. The stance, according to one of them, is called the open stance. When this is adopted the right foot is placed considerably nearer to the ball than the left— perhaps eight or nine inches nearer, or even more than that. By this system it will be seen that as the club is being brought on to the ball, and afterwards when it is following through, the passage, so to speak, is quite clear, and the left foot is well out of the way. With this stance, which is very popular with some of the best players, very fine and powerful play is possible. The other stance is rather more old-fashioned, but is still played 36 Spalding^s Athletic Library. with and thoroughly believed in by many of the best amateur and professional players, particularly those belonging to the old Scottish schools. In this case the right toe is either just on a level with the left one or even some inches behind it. To the uninitiated this difference may seem a very small matter ; but it means everything to the style of the player. In the case of the open stance the weight for the greater part of the stroke is on the right foot, and therefore we say that the man is playing off the right foot. With the square stance it is rather more on the left. The general opinion seems to be that the open stance is the easier of the two to work with ; but I am not in agreement. My own stance is a partially square one, for my toes are almost dead level with each other, as may be seen by reference to the accompanying photographs. After much consideration, and as a result of my experience with hundreds of pupils, I have come to the conclusion that it is easier for the beginner to learn to play off the left foot, that is to say with the toes either level with each other or the right one slightly behind the other. He will get quite as good results with this stance as he would with the other ; it is really quite as easy to follow-through with the club when the stroke is being made, and the player is not so liable to fall into the error of getting his hands and body in front of the club. Moreover, one of the commonest and most trying faults of the beginner is slicing with his wooden clubs. A stroke is sliced when the club-head is — imperceptibly to the eye or even to the feel — drawn across the ball at the moment of contact. It may be only a sixteenth of an inch, but the result is to impart a curious motion to the ball, as the result of which, after starting off in a straight line, it suddenly wheels round to the right, and Spalding^s Athletic Library, 37 sometimes towards the end bf its flight it is actually travelling at right angles to its original and proper direction. The con- sequence, of course, is that much of the desired length is lost, and in addition the ball, by wheeUng round in this way, is almost certain to land itself into a bunker, or the rough grass or other trouble on the side of the fairway, so that a whole stroke, or the best part of one, is lost. When the golfer plays off the left foot with the square stance, although he is not immune from sHcing he is very much less liable to it than with the open stance. Concerning the position of the ball with respect to the feet, there is not much room for variation or difference of opinion. In some abnormal cases one finds a player teeing up the ball almost opposite his left toe, while a few others bring it back to a point almost midway between the feet, or even a shade more to the right. But undoubtedly a mistake is made in each instance. The commoner practice, and that which I have always adopted myself, and which I recommend to all others, is to place the ball, or place the feet, so that the former is in a line about six inches to the right of the left heel. This allows of the full force of the swing being brought on to it, of the club taking it at the time which is likely to be most effective, and of the follow-through being executed in the easiest and most complete manner. Both the toes should be turned slightly outwards. When in position and ready for play, both the legs and the arms of the player should be just a trifle relaxed — just so much as to get rid of any feeling of stiffness, and to allow of the most complete freedom of move- ment. The slackening may be a little more pronounced in the case of the arms than with the legs, as much more freedom 38 Spalding^s Athletic Library. is required of them subsequently. " They should fall easily and comfortably to the sides, and the general feeling of the player at this stage should be one of flexibility and power. If he does not possess it the chances are that there is something wrong somewhere. He should take care that the weight of his body is now well down on his heels and not on the balls of his feet. An almost imperceptible movement will make all the difference in this respect, and it is quite impossible to drive well or accurately unless the weight is on the heels. There may be a little more weight on the right heel than on the left in the case of the address. In passing it may be remarked that the player should never neglect the precaution of having plenty of good hobnails in the soles of his boots or shoes to prevent him from slipping. Despite the fact that his attitude is constituted for comfort and power, the player should guard against any tendency to stoop or to let his head fall down. Both these faults are very serious in some cases, and are very difficult to get rid of. The head should be kept well up throughout the stroke, and the body should be held up as well as circum- stances will permit. The right shoulder may be dipped a little at this point, but care has to be taken that it is not let down any more while the stroke is in progress. When all these arrangements have been made, and the club-head is laid to the ball, the sole of the club, as I have already indicated, must lie flat upon the turf. Everything is now in readiness for making the stroke, and the player prepares to hit the ball. He takes his last look or two in the direction of the hole to satisfy himself thoroughly about what exactly it is that he wants to do, and what it is necessary to do, and to make a final mental note of the par- Spalding's Athletic Library. 39 ticular dangers that are in front of this tee shot, and how they may be avoided. While he is doing this he will feel tlie desire to indulge in a preliminary waggle of tiie club, just to sec that his arms are in working order, waving the club-head backwards and forwards once or twice over the ball. Different players have all kinds of waggles, some slow and deliberate, others quick and energetic, and others again make all kinds of fancy movements. But each adheres to his own system which grows up with him, and without a practice of which he would never feel quite safe in attempting a stroke. Obviously there is no rule in such matters, and the player can only be enjoined to make himself comfortable in the best way he can. But it is better that, during the last waggle at any rate, the eyes should have ceased to regard that point in the distance to which it is intended to despatch the ball, and should have settled down to looking steadily at the ball itself. This brings me naturally to a repetition of the most justly celebrated maxim in golf — " Keep your eye on the hall." There is no other rule which is half so valuable and necessary, because it is quite certain that if you do not keep your eye on it from the moment that you commence your swing until it has been sent from the tee no good whatever can come of the stroke, and the chances are greatly in favour of its being foozled and generally ruined. Even players of long experience and con- siderable skill, sometimes, as the result of over-confidence, get into the way now and again of temporarily allowing their eyes to wander, though they are unconscious that they are doing so, and the result is that their strokes go wrong and they cannot think why. It seems such an easy thing to keep one's eye on the ball, and yet it is not quite so easy as it looks. The time 40 Spalding^s Athletic Library. when it is most frequently taken off is just when the club is coming down on to it, and it is just the time when the mistake is likely to prove the most expensive. The fact seems to be that the mind, and the optic nerves through it, work rather more quickly than the arms and body, and they anticipate the flight of the ball and consequently look up in the direction in which it is to travel, eager to see what has become of the stroke. Consequently the impulse is a natural one to some extent, and as such will have to be very carefully guarded against. Some players who find themselves in constant trouble in this matter have forced on themselves a rule that they shall always take care to see the place where the ball was after it has been struck by the club before they look up to see what has happened, and this is not by any means a bad rule in such circumstances, although it involves keeping the eyes tixed on the spot really rather longer than is necessary. If an instantaneous photograph is taken of a good player just at the moment when the ball has started on its journey, and the club is following through, it will be noticed that his gaze is still directed to the spot where the ball was teed, although he would not be conscious of the fact. Like a good many other things, this business which may be rather troublesome at first becomes habit after a while. There is only one other injunction to make, and that is that the gaze should be fastened on to the side of the ball and not on the top of it, that is to say you must look at the point that you mean to hit. And now you begin the swing. Spalding^ s Athletic Library, 41 VI. THE UPWARD SWING IN DRIVING. If I were asked to say what is the most important movement in the whole of golf, I should say the upward swing when it is intended to make a full shot with either the driver or the brassey. This upward swing comprises a great deal of the style of a player, and it generally surprises the beginner to be told that everything as to the way in which the ball is hit and despatched on its journey depends on this backward movement with the club. Even many old players do not seem to have sufficiently grasped the truth of the statement, or if they have they constantly neglect the moral. Although the up-swing has nothing to do with the hitting of the ball, and it is only in the down-swing that the latter is struck, the up-swing is much the more important movement of the two inasmuch as whatever it is the down-swing is almost sure to be. This is to say that if the up-swing is made in a mechanically and theoretically proper manner, it is unlikely that anything will go wrong at all events until the ball has been hit. On the other hand, if the up-swing is badly made it is practically impossible for the down-swing to be right, and therefore the stroke will be badly played and in one way or another the ball will refuse to travel properly. The first business of the young golfer, therefore, must be to take immeasurable pains to make his up-swing perfect, and it is an exercise that he should never be tired of practising. 1 *^ 15 C/D w 59 finished the stroke properly, get into the habit of retaining this pleasant position until the ball has pretty well run its length and the time has come for your opponent to take his place on the tee, or, if he has already driven, for you both to be moving on. Some players, generally those of a somewhat excitable disposition, get into the way of dropping their club, or releasing one hand from the grip and dropping it to the side, and of moving their feet and bending their body as soon as the ball has been sti ack. Perhaps if they quite reahsed how badly the appearance of such a proceeding compares with that of a finish in the proper manner they would be more anxious to get out of the habit than they often are. As a final injunction, one would again urge the importance of keeping the body perfectly steady not only during the upward swing, as already emphasised, but during the down- ward swing until the ball has gone, and the head all this time should be perfectly motionless with the eye glued on to the back of the ball. If the body keeps to its original position and turns from the waist, and the head remains still, it should be found that at the top of the swing the eyes are looking over the le^^t shoulder which will be in a direct line between the head and the ball. GOOD DRIVES AND BAD 1. The straight ball usually the besf. 2. A ball that begins with a little pull and comes round again- generally a line traveller. 3. Slightly pulled — fairly long. 4. More pull ; trouble likely. 5. Sliced and length lost. 6. Bad Slice ; the worst ball of all. See Chapter X. Spalding's Athletic Library, 6i X. THE LONG BALL. It will be seen that although the drive may look a very simple thing when being performed by a capable player, it is in reality a fairly complicated set of movements, all of which have to lit into each other with the utmost nicety, and the least deviation from absolute correctness in the ca'^" of any one of them is sufficient to throw the whole thing out of gear and ruin the stroke, and how easily ruined it is only golfers of experience know. It is too much to expect of any young player that he will achieve really good results in driving until he has practised most diligently for some considerable time ; and indeed he will hardly drive a good ball until the actual driving has to a large extent ceased to worry him and he has commenced to do it half naturally and unconsciously. The more naturally the swing is made and the more perfect the movements the longer will the drive become in due course, and one must warn the novice against striving too much to hit long balls. In a large measure they must be left to come of themselves, and any attempt to get them by force, or by "pressing," is almost certain to have disastrous results. By this I do not mean to say that when the upward and down- ward swings are perfectly executed the application of strength and force in the second half of the proceeding will not result in a gain of distance, because it is evident that many players Every fault in D riving, and a sight not so uncommon on the Links as it may look. S/'d/t^i/^i^'s Afhh'tic Lilwary. ("'3 get their long lialls in this wuy, lout it is not safe to force the- drive until the pla3'er is very experienced and his style and method? have become quite settled. The beginner should make it his sole object to make his swings properl3% to hit the ball as it ought to be hit, and to send it straight along the line without either pull or slice and at just the proper height. If he does this he will find that very gradually but very surely length will come of itself, and that really long balls may be got without any apparent extra effort of strength. If he watches the great players he will find that many of them drive balls practically as far as it is humanly possible to do under present conditions without any such apparent effort, and one is therefore inclined to say that perfect skill combined with a moderate amount of strength is what is most neces- sary for this purpose. Certainly I would say that the secret of the long ball is not absolutely strength, for I think that looseness of limb has more to do with it than that. For the rest, the art of driving the very long ball seems to be more or less of a natural gift. Some men can do it, and others can't and never will however much they try, and that seems to be the end of it. My own experience rather suggests that there is something too mysterious about the business for explanation, because though I am considered to be a long driver in these days, and am generally capable of holding my own in this respect, this was not always the case, and the change not only came about suddenly but in a manner that I have riever been able to explain with the least degree of satisfaction to myself or to any one else. In my younger days I was quite a short driver, and in my matches with mv friends i was constantly- outdriven, so that I was always having to 64 Spalding^ s Athletic Library. fight hard in the short game. It seemed that my failing in this respect would be fatal to me and to my prospects of success, when suddenly, without any warning and without any conscious alteration of any of my methods, I began to drive a great length, and instead of bemg outdriven I began to outdrive all my opponents. I actually put on forty yards in a fortnight, and those forty yards, with perhaps a few more to keep them company, I have retained ever since, never having gone back to my old short-driving experiences. How this came about is the greatest mystery of my golfing career, and I shall never be able to solve it. It certainly was not strength that did it. Therefore I strongly advise all young players against pressing for the long ball. If they are to be any good at the game it will be necessary for them to drive a reasonable length, say a hundred and eighty yards, with a fair degree of regularity, but this can be done without any application of great strength — simply by perfect accuracy of swing and proper timing — and when they have got to that point of reliability that they can depend upon, driving so far on the majority of occasions I would recommend to them that for the future instead of trying to drive farther and farther, as the majority of them do, with the result that a fair proportion of their shots are spoiled in the endeavour, they should instead concentrate all their efforts on getting straighter and straighter every time. They will find this a far more profitable study than that of how to get the long ball, even if their researches in the latter direction should prove successful. Nothing pays in driving like absolute reliability and straightness, and the man who always hits a ball of fair length and who te always on the Spalding^s Athletic Library. 65 line and on the straight road for the hole ought generally, bar accidents, to score over another who is a confirmed slogger, and who doesn't mind if several of his strokes with wooden clubs do send his ball into the rough so long as the others despatch it a really wonderful distance down the course. Jt doesn't pay the sam©. stance for Drive with Pull. See Chapter XI. Spalding's .U/Uetic Library. 67 XI. PULLING AND SLICING. To pull and to slice is both a fault and an acquisition, according to whether it is accidental or intentional. The beginner is not often troubled by pulling, but he very fre- quently suffers from badly sliced balls, and they not only land him in bunkers and in the rough grass, but they take all the length off his drive and cause him the greatest exasperation. It is very difficult to set down in writing any cure for slicing, because it may be caused in so many different ways, and frequently the very slightest adjustment of the stance or the swing is all that is necessary. It may be pointed out, however, that what really makes the slice is the drawing of the face of the club across the ball at the moment of impact. This may be done in several different ways, but when unintentional it is most commonly due either to the pulling in of the arms as soon as the ball has been struck or to a faulty stance — with the right foot too far forward. In each case the cure here is obvious, but when a young player has got a really bad attack of slicing, which he cannot get rid of, he should without delay consult his professional, who will generally be able to set him right in a very few minutes. In the same way pulling, when accidental and not wanted, is brought about through many different faults, but it is chiefly due to improper stance, to bad <-Jmjnq, or to over- %L.-/"" ' ■ ■ ~-^- *fi^ "- rJ •*"' ,-^.-* fcF' ■-'r-^rt' Stance for Drive with Slice. See Chapter XL Spalding^ s Athletic Library. 69 work by the right hand. As before, ask the professional to put you right. Sometimes players wish to do these things deliberately, as when a pulled or sliced ball will get them round an obstacle which is in their way to the hole without putting them to the necessity of going over it, a course which might often mean a high ball and one which was consequently devoid of length. However, I feel much diffidence in giving any instruction on these points. For one thing, by the time the player comes to be so expert and to have so much command over his club as to feel any ambitions of this kind he will have got very far from the beginner's stage, and he will really not be in need of instruction as to how to do these shots ; and, on the other hand, a player would be very ill advised to attempt any tricks of this kind until he has obtained this complete mastery over his club and is expert in the ordinary strokes of the game. Besides, a man who can drive a straight and sure bail will generally find that he can adapt himself to practically all the varying circumstances of the game, and the way to win matches is generally to play straight to the hole. He who is straightest most frequently wins. I would only hint that the most elementary direction for obtaining the sliced ball is to take your stance with your right foot advanced and so that the ball is more in a line with the left heel than in the case of an ordinary stroke with a wooden club, while to get the pulled ball the right foot should be drawn back and the sphere should be more towards the right, or about mid- way between the feet. The pulled ball is always more difficult to obtain, and especially to control, than the sliced ball. o ^ tuOtf? Spahiuig's A I hie fie Library. 7* XII. PLAYING IN A WIND. I should say something about playing the long game when a wind is blowing, which is a circumstance constantly en- countered. In this matter, at all events, the player of a very little experience may be permitted to attempt some adaptation of his play to the prevailing conditions, for it is easily done, and involves no very great deviation from ordinary methods. In the first place, I would say that it is a very good thing to shorten the swing on a windy day, no matter from what point of the compass the wind is blowing. There is always a little tendency to unsteadiness when the wind is blowing strongly. The player is not quite so comfortable as usual, and if he shortens his swing he will probably achieve some extra confidence. Moreover, I also recommend that when playing both up and down the wind the upward and downward swings should be rather slower than usual. I find that the effect is advantageous in both cases. When playing against the wind the ball always seems to me to bore its way better through it when hit slowly than when the swing has been quickly made, while with the wind the slow swing seems to give the ball more time to rise and get the advantage of what is blowing. In the case of cross-winds I would not advise young players to attempt any greater deviation from their usual game than is comprised in the very simple process of making a certain ^MiHudfaiteJU Braid ''letting out at it" in his Drive. A characteristic finish by the Champion. Spalding'' s Athletic Library. 73 allowance for the wind in the direction in which the ball is hit, and when this is properly done it ought to be sufficient for anything. When the wind is blowing from the front against the player he may go so far as to stand a little more in front of the ball, keep his weight rather more fofward, and take pains to hold his right shoulder well up throughout the stroke. The result of these. slight variations from the usual course of pro- cedure is to keep the ball low down, for it is only a low ball. With a lot of driving power in it, that stands any chance of getting distance when the wind is coming up strongly from the front. In the reverse case, when you are playing down the wind the object is to get the ball up fairly high — not forgetting, of course, to get the driving power into it as well — so that the wind m ly get fairly hold of it and help it along. In this case, if it is a tee shot the ball may be teed a little higher than usual, bearing in mind that small trifles of this kind go a very long way, and the player may take his stance a little more to the right, or behind the ball, and allow his right shoulder to droop a little more — a proceeding, however, which must be conducted with the utmost caution, since dropping the right shoulder is often a dangerous fault in beginners, and one which they have difficulty in getting out of. 74 Sj'alding's Athletic Library. XIII. BRASSEY PLAY. To all intents and purposes a brassey shot is simply a tee shot without the tee, and all that has been said about driving in the foregoing pages applies to play with the brassey. The object in each case is to drive the ball as far as possible in the direction of the hole, and with this in view a similar type of wooden club is employed both times. The only material difference is that whereas in the case of the tee shot the player is given everything in his favour and is allowed to pick and choose the place where he will play from and to tee up the ball exactly to his liking, he must in the case of the brassey shot that follows take the circumstances as he finds them, whether they are good or bad. If the tee shot was a good one the chances are that he will be provided with a ball lying nicely for his second shot, as he deserves to be, and he may count himself unlucky if he has any material difficulties to face in the matter of lie or stance. But if the least thing went wrong with the drive, or if the direction was not good, it might very likely happen that when the time came for the second shot to be played it would be found that neither the lie nor the stance were quite what they might be desired to be. So many beginners take their brassey as a matter of course for the second shot, if it ought to be a long one, that it may be timely to suggest to them that they should more frequently ask themselves the question when they come to the ball whether the Spaldi?ig's Athfefic Library. 7<' lie is really one that justifies the use of the brassey, because if it does not the chances of failure are very great, whereas by sacrificing a little distance a fair amount of success may be guaranteed by the use of an iron club. While you do not want a teed ball for play with the brassey, the lie must always be reasonably good, that is to say the ball must be standing fairly well up on the top of the turf, and there must be a clear approach to it for the club. If it is at all cupped, or if there are obstructions about it which will prevent the wooden club from getting quite cleanly to it, it will be far better to choose the iron which is best adapted to the circumstances, although many players are expert at manipulating their brasseys in all kinds of disheartening situations, as they have to be when they get into the higher classes of golf and are set the task of winning or halving holes from opponents who know every shot in the game, and who have had better luck with some of their strokes from the tee. A word may usefully be said about the club. The brassey is, or ought to be, a driver pure and simple, wath only such modi- fications as are rendered necessary by the slightly different character of its work, and such as would almost suggest them- selves to the most inexperienced player. For example, we sole the club with a thin sheath of brass for its better protection and because the club-head then goes more smoothly and easily to the ball. We generally put a little more loft on to the face of the club because it has to do the work of picking the ball up from the turf, whereas the driver with its straight face had the ball already sitting up for it clear of the ground and only needing to be driven forward. Care should be taken, however, that too mucli loft is not put on the face of the brassey. A very little is ye Spalding^s Athletic Library. all that is necessary, but some players with a limited experience whenever they find difficulty with their brassey, and particularly when it seems to them a very hard thing to get the ball up, come to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the club, and then they take it to the club-maker's shop and ask for a little more loft to be filed on to it. Not only does it generally happen that the trouble from which they suffered before is still as bad as ever, but it must be borne in mind that after all it is desired to get length with the brassey, and that there is no compatability between length and loft, so that they have materially damaged the driving powers of their club, A professional is in the first instance very unlikely to put into the hands of a player a club which has not got enough loft on it to get the ball up from any ordinary lie. Then it often happens that the face of the club is rather shorter than that of the driver, particularly at the bottom, so that it requires less room to get at the ball and encounters less obstruction in case the lie is very grassy or other- wise a trifle thick. I must say, however, that I am rather against the extremely short faces that have been put on brasseys during the last year or two by many makers. I don't see that they are necessary, and they must to some extent increase the risk of the stroke being a failure. Some people recommend that the brassey should be slightly — generally about an inch — shorter than the driver used by the same player ; but I cannot understand why they do so, and as the object is to play the stroke in the same way as when driving from the tee the suggestion seems opposed to reason. The brassey should be about the same length as the driver. I might add that my own brassey is the same length as my driver. Care must be taken that the lie of the brassey matches that of the driver, and it is neglect of this rather Spalding'' s Athletic Library. 77 obvious point that causes many of the difficulties of young players. They choose a driver to suit them, and then they select a brassey which they think is just what they want without ever taking the trouble to see that both have the same angles of lies, which they should have if the same kind of stance is to be adopted in each case. If this precaution is not adopted the player may be called upon to play a quite different game with his brassey from that to which he has become accustomed with his driver, if he is to obtain anything approximating to the same results, or if he does not, he is almost sure to fail altogether. The driver and the brassey should be perfect duplicates in this matter. As a final word about the club, it should usually have a fairly stiff shaft, as it is sometimes called upon to execute rather rougher work than is ever demanded of the driver. When he has the right kind of club in his hands the player in attempting a brassey shot has only to play it in the same way as when driving, but instead of looking at the side of the ball he may be recommended to keep his eyes on the grass immediately behind it. This should ensure his hitting the ball in the right place. He must get out of his mind at the very beginning a little idea tha^ is very likely to get into it, which is that the player himself must do something considerable towards getting the ball up from its low lie — something, that is, that he had not to do when driving. This idea results very frequently in his dipping his right shoulder and trying to scoop the ball up, and it is very seldom that anything like a good shot is ever made out of such attempts. The player must be brought to realise that his club is specially designed for getting the ball up, and if he takes it cleanly and properly the work will be well done without any further assistance from y8 Spalding's Athletic Lihraiy. him. In what might be called advanced golf there is some- times a kind of jab stroke played with the brassey when the ball is lying badly and the club has to get well under it to force it out ; but the beginner had better make up his mind not to attempt any such strokes as this until he has attained a great measure of proficiency in the game. Spaldi/ig's xitliktic Library. 79 XIV. PLAY WITH IRON CLUBS. I have devoted so much space to the play with the wooden clubs because the man who learns to play fairly reliably with them has laid the foundations of a good game, and in the majority of cases he will then get on pretty well with his irons, although they require different treatment. Still, in the main the principles are the same, and have only to be adapted to the special requirements of the different clubs and the needs of the situation. When one plays with the driver and the brassey the object generally is to get as far as possible ; but when the distance it is required to get is less than that which may be achieved by a full shot with either wooden club one or other of the various iron instruments is generally taken. It is taken into account also that when the distance is com.para- tively short in this way it is generally required to be more exact in tlie placing of the ball. The hole will usually be within reach, and it is now desired to get as near to it as pos- sible with a view perhaps of saving a stroke or to making the final stages of the short game as easy and certain as possible. In a word, distance is now to be sacrificed to accuracy. Broadly speaking there are five different classes of irons, for each of which there is a special use. First there is the cleek, with which a good player can get pretty nearly as far as with a brassey, and which he uses cither when the distance is 3 ^^f o mOZM c t "^M o it It ^ r|/ tj 1 1 OJ o li: < ^ o q flC Q. o a <-w 1^ ^ ^ O ^> l\ ?>v fc ^ A •^ ^ v ^ x: > ^ O §^ ^^^ D CC ^^^ ffi Xi G OS CO CD > 3 . o 13/) Spalding^s Athletic Library. 8l rather under that of a brassey or for a long, low approach of practically brassey distance, but which calls for special accuracy in direction. Some players carry both a cleek and a driving mashie in their bags, and have uses for each, but as a rule they are employed for the same purpose, and some players who find that they cannot get on well with one play the same kind of shot with the other. The difference is that the driving mashie has generally a shorter and deeper blade than the cleek, and is slightly heavier. It is a great favourite with many golfers, but those who are masters of the cleek have a great preference for the latter. After the cleek and the driving mashie comes the iron, which is one of the most generally useful clubs that are carried. It is used for shots of medium length, say from a hundred up to a hundred and thirty or forty yards. Its blade is fairly long and moderately deep, and it has some considerable loft on it, so that when the ball is struck it lifts it up into the air. In this way obstructions between the player and the green are sur- mounted, and the high ball does not run so much when it comes to the turf, so that its final resting-place can be fairly accurately gauged. Next there is the mashie, which is a club with a short and deep blade on which there is a great deal of loft. This club is only used for very short shots of rarely more than a hundred yards at the outside, and its special purpose is to pitch the ball high up so that it will not only clear all the bunkers guarding the hole but will drop it almost dead on to the green without any run on it. If a short approach shot of this character were played with a club which had not so much loft on it the ball would be kept too low and would as a result have a lot of run on it, so that it 82 Spalding'* s Athletic Library. would be very difficult to play it so exactly as to guarantee the ball pulling up in that close proximity to the hole that is desired. Although the principles of play with it are very simple, the mashie is one of the most difficult of all clubs to use really well, and it is one in regard to which good play pays exceedingly. Of the remaining clubs there is the niblick, which is a very heavy tool with much loft on it, and which is generally employed for delivering the ball from sand bunkers and coarse, rough obstructions of all kinds into which either the bad play or the bad luck of the golfer has placed it, and for which cases the lighter and more delicate iron clubs would be quite useless. Some players^, however, have much finer uses for the nibhck, and find it to be a very effective club for making short lofted approaches, as with it the ball can be stopped quite dead on its reaching the green. The fifth iron club is the putter, which, as its name implies, is used to putt the ball into the hole— the last stroke in the play at each hole and one which must obviously be the most delicate and exact of all. There are scores of kinds of putters, and some of them are not made of iron at all, favourite patterns being in aluminium or wood. Concerning the details of stance and swing with each of these clubs I shall have a little to say in due course, but, speaking generally, I would remark here at the outset that I do not favour taking a full shot with any of them unless special circumstances render it absolutely necessary, except perhaps with the cleek. The iron clubs are heavier than the wooden ones, and are consequently more under control, and it will be found that with a three-quarter swing they will be Spalding's Athletic Library. 83 still more under control, and there will be, or should be, a corresponding gain in accuracy which is all-important. By a three-quarter swing one means a swing in which the club is carried back for only about three-quarters of the distance that it would be taken when making a full shot with the driver, that is to say not so far as the horizontal. A con- siderable amount of practice may be needed to regulate these swings, but the player will come to make them with great accuracy if he perseveres. The play with all iron clubs differs from that with wooden ones in another important respect, which is that with them the stroke is always much more of a hit. I have impressed it on the reader that when driving the ball you do not hit it, but, so to speak, sweep it off its resting-place ; but when playing it with an iron you do hit it a sharp, sudden blow, and the follow-through is of much less importance than in case of tee and brassey shots, and is really only of any importance at all in so far that it shows whether the upward swing was properly made or not. The strongest iron players always make a hit pure and simple at the ball. Partly for this reason, and partly to gain greater accuracy of direction and greater control over the club the irons are gripped much more tightly with the right hand. Both hands hold them very firmly indeed, but the right hand takes the command, as it did not do in the case of the wooden tools. This difference is of the utmost importance. This may or may not be the chief cause of the tendency to pull with all irons that I have constantly noticed is the case. This tendency has always been rather a puzzle to me, but anyhow it is not a very serious matter. °^°-kkk k § <0 Diagram showing the angles of loft on the faces of different clubs, as measured on a standard set. See Chapter III. The black patch represents the correct place for taking turf. The mistake is often made of taking it much more behind the ball. See page 49. S/ya/di/ig^s AiJiIetic Library. 85 As the irons have generally shorter shafts and more upright lies the player stands closer to his ball than when he was playing with his driver and brassey. Also my own stance is more open ; that is to say, I have my right foot a little farther in front of the left when addressing the ball ; but I am not sure that I would recommend this course of procedure to the beginner. He will perhaps do better work, at the outset at all events, if he maintains the same kind of stance with most of his irons as he did in the case of his driver. Another general feature of the play with the irons that calls for mention in these preliminary remarks is that in most cases one takes a little turf when playing the stroke. In driving the object is always to hit the ball as cleanly as possible, and the less interference the club gets from the turf the better. But it is not the same with the irons, and it will be found that in their case if the sole of the club cuts through a little piece of the turf when it is taking hold of the ball there is not only no appreciable loss in power, but a great steadying influence is obtained, and the ball flies more accurately. Many players, however, make the mistake of taking the turf too far behind the ball. It will take them some time to perform these delicate operations with any certainty of success, but w^hen they come to have complete command over their clubs they will do well to cultivate the practice of just hitting the ball first and then driving the club through it, as it were, and taking a piece of turf from underneath it. It will be found that the flight of the ball is very steady when this is done. With this brief introduction we may pass on to the consideration of the special shots with each class of iron club. Address with the Cleek See Chapter XV. spa/ding's Athletic Library. 87 XV. CLEEK SHOTS. For some reason many players find the cleek a most difficult club to play with, and after years of perseverance with it they give it up and refuse to carry it in their bags, consoling themselves with the reflection that it is not much use after all, and that they can do quite as well with a driving mashie or with a straight-faced iron. They may get very good results from the latter, but I am a firm believer in the cleek, and I do not think that any man can consider himself quite proficient at the game until he has obtained a certain amount of command over it, and plays with it regularly when it seems to be the proper club for the occasion. A variety of very pretty work can be got from the cleek as can be got from no other club, and I strongly advise the beginner to persevere with its use at the outset of his career, as if he does ~hot he may alv^ays be sorry for not having done so. I have already suggested that the object when playing with the cleek is to get a long ball, perhaps a little shorter than that which would be got with the brassey, and as straight as it is possible to get it. Many good players constantly get a distance of two hundred yards with their cleeks, but generally a hundred and seventy or there- abouts is the recognised distance for this club, and it is regu- larly used for one-shot holes where the one shot is a full one and the object is to place the ball as near to the pin as possible. Top of Swing for Full Cleek Shot. See Chapter XV, Spalding's Athletic Library. 89 I should explain in passing, in case it may be necessary to any very inexperienced reader, that a one-shot hole means a hole which is meant to be reached with one shot from the tee, and at which the player ought to hole out in 3 (allowing two putts), or with a little luck in 2, A 4 at such a hole represents bad play. The cleek should be not more than an inch or two shorter than the driver, and this similarity in length tends to induce a certain amount of similarity in playing with it. Take your stance just so much nearer to the ball as is necessitated by this shorter club, so that when you are addressing you feel the same amount of comfort and confidence, and generally feel that you are able to do much the same kind of shot. As I have said, in my own play I advance the right foot a little, but I do not advise young players to begin with variations of this kind. If they find they can do better with them, well and good. Grip the club firmly with both hands. In the upward swing the same directions should be observed as when driving. Let the wrists begin the swing, go up slowly, keep the right elbow in, and so forth, and it is just as important as ever that the body should turn on its own axis, that the head should be kept quite still, and that the eyes should be riveted on to the ball. The player must.be careful not to swing the club too far away from the body, or he will find that the result is to cut or slice the ball, and a very little cut has a large effect in playing with clubs of this kind. It goes without saying that the left foot pivots -and the left knee bends in the same way as when driving, but as the swing is rather shorter and more restricted they do not do so to quite the same extent. For even a full cleek shot the club should not be taken ,1 ::)v>iii^ :-: -- :— : - --^ck Shot. Sec Chapter XV. Spalding's Athletic Library 91 so far back as to make the shaft horizontal, that is to say at the top of the swing the blade of the cleck should be, rather higher than the hands. If it goes any farther than that there will be a considerable loss of control. Come down in the same way as with the driver, but tighten the wrists a little more at the time of impact — a proceeding which will be natural if it is remembered that the ball is to be hit instead of swept from the place where it rests. At the same time a warning must be given against overdoing this hit and making a stab or jerk of it, which is a fault from which many players suffer. When the ball is jerked from its lie there can be no sort of control over it, and the distance cannot be obtained. After impact the club may be allowed to finish in its own way so long as the hands and arms are kept well out so as to avoid cutting. The finish will be long or short according to the length of the backward swing. Besides the full shot with the cleek there is the three-quarter, and while this may be carried out in the same way there is an adaptation of it which I have found to be very useful when playing against the wind. In this case I play with a more open stance, placing the right foot considerably nearer to the ball than the left. The weight is rather more on the left foot than the right, and the hands are held slightly forward, in front of the head of the club In the upward swing the wrists and forearms are kept rather stiffer than in the playing of other shots. The former do not turn so much, and the left elbow is kept rather straighter, so that when the club is at the top of the swing it is found that the hands are farther away from the body than when a full shot was being made with either the driver or the cleek. Less Addres. for Cieek Shot when playing against the Wind. See Chapter KY. Top of Swinj k Shot when playing against the Wind. See Chapter XV. r Fiui>li ui Clcck Shot when Playing against the Wind. See Chapter XV. Spalding^ s Athletic Library. 95 bend is also allowed to the left knee, and there is not nearly so much pivoting on the left toe as in other cases. On the other hand, the right knee stiffens itself more, and the body is held more rigidly. The whole attitude is stiffer than usual, and it continues to be so to the finish of the stroke. The wrists and forearms bring down the club ; and, as in the address, the hands are slightly in front of the blade at the time of impact, both wrists and forearms being as stiff as they can be made at this moment. After impact the right hand turns over some- what, and an effort is made to carry the club through as close to the turf as is possible, following exactly the line of flight of the ball. This is m^ variation of a shot which in one form or another is played by most of the leading professionals, and one which they find extremely useful in many emergencies. It is a shot that is generally only played in fairly advanced golf, and I would recommend all beginners to leave these refinements of the game severely alone until they have mastered the more elementary shots. At the same time this is one which will be extremely useful to them when they have got fairly going, and then they may take an early opportunity of prac- tising it. S\M ,. - I ill Iron Shot. See Chapter XVI. Spalding'' s Athletic Library, 97 XVI. THE IRON. With many players the iron is a very favourite club, and one which in their hands is made to serve all kinds of useful purposes. Moreover, it is true that the approaching distance for which the iron is specially suited is constantly being pre- sented in the course of a round of the links, and, taking it all round, it has to be admitted that the iron is one of the most valuable occupants of the golfer's bag. It is certainly a beginner's club, because play with it is not generally found so difficult as that with either the cleek or the mashie, and it is probably the tirst of the iron clubs with which the young golfer exhibits any sign of proficiency. Therefore he will do well to give it special attention at the outset. I say this, although it is often found that the more a man gets on in the game the less does he require his iron., often because he finds its work a little too crude and too inexact for his liking. He frequently gets the same result in a better way from other clubs. I myself have no particular fondness for the iron, and it is very seldom that I play a full ordinary shot with it. When the distance seems to call for such a shot I generally prefer to take my cleek and play an easy half-shot with that, finding that when I do so I can keep a much straighter ball than when I have to make a full swing with the less powerful club. However, the beginner would not be well advised to '4^ i 'Sec Chapler XVI. Spalding^s Athletic Library. 99 try experiments with half-swings at the outset, and therefore he may be recommended to give careful study to the play with the club under discussion. When he has learned to play his cleek shots he will have no particular difficulty with the iron, for it is used in a very similar manner. As the shaft of the club is shorter it will usually be necessary to stand a little nearer to the ball, and in the case of this shot it is also better to take a more open stance, that is to play with the right foot a little nearer to the ball than in the case of the shots that have already been described. Apart from this, the feet should be placed so that the ball is nearer to the line of the right heel. Grip the club very tightly, and make the upward swing in the same manner as with the full shot with the cleek, taking care not to prolong the upward movement too far. In all shots of this kind a short swing is much better and much more reliable than a long one. The stroke is a hit stroke, as with other iron clubs, and this is to be remembered when coming down on to the ball so that the wrists are stiffened and prepared for the sharp impact. After the ball has gone I finish the stroke with the hands well up and the club turned round to the back, though it is not essential that this should be done. It merely shows that the stroke has been cleanly and freely made. At the finish of the stroke, according to the Vv'ay in which I make it myself, the player should be entirely on his left leg with the right foot on its toe, and, as in the case of most other full shots, his body should have come round so that it is now facing the hole. LOFC. Spalding^ s Athletic Library^ XVII. THE RUNNING-UP SHOT. The iron is also very frequently used for another and entirely different kind of stroke, that is to say a short running-up approach of anything up to fifty or sixty yards. On most courses there is usually a more or less formidable bunker guarding the green, and when this is the case and the golfer is approaching the hole from short range the bunker becomes" a serious matter for consideration. The only shot that is possible in the circumstances is a lofted shot, and the proper thing to do this with is the mashie, as will be described shortly. But it sometimes happens that there is either no bunker, or that the previous shot has just cleared it but has still left a fair amount of ground to be covered before the pin is reached. Many players in these days have got so accustomed to the belief that the mashie is the only thing to do any kind of approach work with that they still use it in circumstances of this kind ; but a running-up shot with a less lofted club is far preferable and, executed by a man who knows what he is doing, is likely to give far better results. There is a much better chance of laying the ball near to the hole when running-up than when pitching with the mashie, and it is a shot which gives scope for any amount of skill, so that tlie tendency in these days is to make holes with fewer bunkers in front of them so as to give more opportunities for this running-up Spalding's Athletic Library loi The object of the stroke is just to hft the ball clear of the ground until the putting green is reached, or nearly, and then to let it drop there and finish with a little run up to the pin. It is obvious that for this purpose very little loft is needed on the club, and indeed the less there is on it the better, so that while the iron is often used — perhaps more generally so than any other club — many players get better results and are able to gauge the shot with much more accuracy by using a club with a straighter blade, such as a straight-faced iron, which they may carry in their bags, or even a cleek. The method of making the stroke is very simple. The player must stand very straight up and take a firm and fairly open stance, with the ball rather more in a line with the riglit heel than usual. The swing will be a very short affair, since very little propulsion is necessary in order to make the ball travel .such a short distance. Exactly what length of swing to give will naturally vary with the distance to be traversed, and the player must be left to find out in practice what swing to give for each particular shot, and need only be recommended always to try to get his distance exactly by swinging exactly instead of by swinging almost the same distance each time and regulating the force that he puts into the stroke. In a general way it will be found that even for a fairly long run up it will not be necessary to swing the blade of the club more than elbow high ; and, this being so, the body should be kept very stiff and steady, and the left knee should bend in towards the right but a very little, the heel scarcely coming off the ground. In finishing the stroke the wrists should be kept fairly stiff, and after impact the right hand should turn over slightly while tlie head of the club should sweep along close to tlie ground and finish low down I02 Spa/ding^ s Athletic Library, pointing to the hole. Of course for a shot of this character no turf is to be taken. The ball should be hit as cleanly and accurately as possible, and the player must guard against a tendency that will assert itself to look up towards the hole before he has actually struck the ball ; in fact, the rule about keeping the eye on the ball has to be insisted upon more than ever when the short game is being played, because it is then that it is most commonly broken. In many respects this delicate running-up shot is a miniature of the three-quarter forcing shot with the cleek as already described. spa /ding's Athletic Library XVIII. THE MASHIE. This is a club that generally gives the young golfer a good deal of trouble, though there is no great reason why it should do so, and the cause as a rule is merely over-anxiety. The hole is close at hand, and there is commonly a hazard of some kind intervening which will catch the ball if the least thing goes wrong, and thus spoil the whole of what may have been very good play up to that point. I need say no more con- cerning the club than that it should have a fair amount of weight in it, and should have a strong shaft in which there must be no tendency to whip. Spring in the shaft is all very well in the case of some clubs, but it is quite out of place in a mashie. There are many different patterns of blades, and it is not much use recommending any particular one of them to the player, because as soon as he gets on in the game he is almost certain to exhibit a preference of his own in this respect. However, one may recommend him not to overdo the loft on his club, as, however much it may be necessary to get the ball up, it must not be forgotten that it is also necessary to take well hold of it, and there may be a difficulty in doing this when the face of the club is laid back at too great an angle. There are generally understood to be two kinds of shots with the mashie — a very full mashie which is similar to an iron Addi-ess for Approach Stroke with Mashie. See Chapter XVIII. Spalding^ s Athletic Library, 105 shot, and only differs from it in that the ball is carried a shorter distance and goes up higher, so that it comes down with less run — all this being mostly due to the club — and the short-pitching shot, in which the ball is just lifted straight up into the air to come down again a very little distance in front with next to no run on it. The former may be employed when the ball is somewhere about eighty yards from the hole, and the latter usually comes in most frequently at about forty or fifty. In reality there is not much difference between the strokes except in degree — that is to say in the length of the swing and consequently the force with which the ball is hit. The stance for the mashie shot differs slightly from that which was taken in the case of the iron. It should always be very open, and the right foot is consequently well advanced, while the ball is placed in a line about midway between the feet. For my own part I believe, in holding the hands very low down — at practically the full stretch of the arms — so that the heel of the club is on the turf and the toe is slightly raised. This course of procedure seems to help tie club to get under the ball better. At the same time the player should stand very close to the ball, and he should grip the club very tightly. It is essential that throughout this stroke he should have a very firm grip. In making the upward swing it has to be borne in mind that as it is required to pitch the ball up, and as one of the means of doing this is to come down very straight on to it, the club should be carried very straight up when, it is being taken away from the ball. The best way of doing this, and at the same time .of preserving that semi-rigidity which is essential to good masiiie play, is to allow the wrists and Top of Swing when Approaching with the Mashie. See Chapter XVI 11. Spalding'' s Aihietic Lihi-ary. 107 forearms to do nearly all the work ; and this is generally recognised to be the proper method. The arms are allowed to bend slightly from the elbows, and the right elbow is kept well in to the body. While there should be a fair amount of slackness and plav in the legs to begin with, the knees being allowed to bend considerably, there should be very little move- ment in either feet or legs w'hile the stroke is being made. The left knee may bend in very slightly towards the right toe, but the heel should scarcely be raised from the ground, and there should be nothing in the nature of pivoting. In this way the body will not be allowed to turn very much, and it is important that it should not be allowed to do so. The more rigidly it is held the better. As for the distance to which the club is taken back, this must necessarily depend on the length of the shot which it is required to make, but it should be very seldom necessary when using the mashie to go much beyond the perpendicular, and when a player docs so he is probably asking rather more of the club than he ought to do. As usual the downward swing is a repetition of the upward one, and there is little to say about it that will not be evident to the player by this time. He must take care to carry the club well through in the direction of the hole, and not to hug it in towards him just after impact — a fault which is very much in evidence with some players and which completely ruins the shot. In finishing one does not allow the body to turn round towards the hole quite so much as with other shots with iron clubs, and consequently the right knee does not turn in so much. The club should finish about as high up as it was taken in the backward swing. It is of great im- Finish ol Apprucich Sliut wiUi Hk- See Chapler XVII 1. Spalding^ s Athletic Library. 109 portance to impress upon . the young golfer who is not thoroughly acquainted with mashie play that it is not neces- sary for him to do anything in particular except obey the simple instruction for swinging the club as here laid down in order to make the ball pitch up in the required manner. If the club is swung properly the loft on its face will get the ball up quite sufficiently for any purpose, and when the player gets trying to assist the club in this direction by wriggling his hands about when making the stroke and endeavouring in some peculiar manner to jerk the ball up there is sure to be trouble. In itself mashie play is not so very difficult after all, but many players contrive to make it so. There are one or two other kinds of approach shots, chiefly that in which a little cut is applied to the mashie stroke in order to make the ball stop more dead than usual when it alights on the green, but the beginner had better not attempt them. They are not easy, and it will be quite time enough for him to try his skill at this sort of thing when he has had at least a year or two's practice. Besides they are not often wanted. Remember that with all mashie shots a little turf should always be taken. It is next to impossible to play them well without, but the turf must be taken at the right time and in the right place. stance and Address for Bunker Stroke with Niblick. See Chapter XIX. Spalding's Athletic Library. iii XIX. THE NIBLICK. This is a heavy club with a deep face and much laid back for the special purpose of making the ball rise very quickly over some obstruction immediately in front. The use to which the niblick is most frequently applied is to get the player out of bunkers and other difficult places to wliich his bad shots have taken him, and as a rule it is about the only club that is practicable in the circumstances. The golfer should make a point, however, of asking himself when he has got into a bunker whether any other club than the niblick is possible in the situation that is presented. Some players get so much into the habit of taking their niblick quite mechanically when in bunkers that they miss many good opportunities of making far better recoveries than is possible with it, for it occasionally happens that the ball is lying quite well and at a fair distance from the face of a low bunker, in which circumstances it might be quite easy to get in a good shot with a mashie, or even now and then with an iron or driving mashie. However, while pointing out this possibility, it is never to be forgotten that after all the first thing to be thought of when one has got into a bunker is to make sure of getting out in one stroke, and therefore a club should never be taken which the player is not quite certain is equal to the task in hand. Top of Swing for Bunker Stroke with Niblick. Note the Upright Character of the Swing. See Chapter XIX. 13 against getting into the habit of stabbing his ball. This is a common mistake ; but when it is made the regulation of strength and direction is most difficult. The club must be brought on to the ball in a nice even sweep, and it should follow-through properly. As in other strokes the swing should be regulated precisely according to the distance to which it p spa/ding^ s Athletic Library. 123 is desired to putt the ball. A great deal depends on hitting the ball quite truly on the proper place on the club, and to ensure this, care must be taken to keep the eye on the ball until the stroke has been made. The tendency to take it off and look up at the hole before the ball has been started on its journey is greater in the case of putting than anything else, and it is fatal every time. As to stance, I myself think there is a great deal to be said for a very open stance, and this is one with which I play, having the ball nearly opposite my right toe ; but I would hesitate to lay down any definite rule in the matter. The beginner may be left to experiment for himself. Also he may be left to experi- ment with putters, as it is in the farthest degree unlikely that he will be satisfied with the first one that he buys. He will think that he will be able to putt better and save more holes if he buys a new one, and this may happen several times before he has a real favourite of his own. I might hint again, however, that I think there is something to be said for having one kind of putter to run up with and another for holing out from a short distance. The importance of making a most careful study of the line of every putt cannot be too strongly impressed upon the player. If there are undulations of the green to be dealt with they cannot be considered too carefully or the calculations made too exactly, for the ball is exceedingly sensitive to them. It is sometimes even necessary to make wide allowances for undulations that are scarcely perceptible, and this is specially the case when greens are fast. There is a wise maxim " Never up, never in," and it may only be added that it is better to be a foot beyond the hole than six inches on the near side of it. 1^4 Spalding's Athletic Library. XXI. PLAYING THE ROUND. We have thus made a short study of all the leading strokes in the game, and by the time the player is able to make them with any kind of complete knowledge as to how they should all be done, even if he cannot make them properly, he will be playing his rounds against opponents, and ought to be a constantly improving golfer. In regard to playing a round as a whole there are one or two points that it may be wise to mention here. To play the ball from the tee to the hole is never quite such a simple business as it looks if it is to be done properly and the hole won or halved with an opponent. The player will find it to be necessary to play with his head all the time, and one of the first things that he will have to learn, and one which he will find of use all through his career is when to take risks and when not to. The mere beginner should never take risks, that is to say he should never attempt shots which he imagines may be beyond his powers, because he will be doing much to spoil the style he is forming for himself and get himself into very bad habits. Let him content himself with making the shots in an easy and comfortable way, and being as certain about them as he can be. But the time will come when the question will present itself acutely to him as to whether he shall attempt a shot which he thinks is quite likely to fail, in the hope of gaining Spalding^s Athletic Library. ^ 125 some great advantage if it comes off. In these circumstances it is simply a question of profit and loss, and the player must make a careful calculation as to which is, on the whole, the more profitable policy. It may happen that a very desperate shot is the only one to save the match ; in that case it is the obvious duty of the player to go for it. If a rnan is two down with three to play, he must take risks with nearly every stroke ; but if he is two up with three to play he must risk nothing. Again, if his opponent has played the odd or two more, he himself will naturally play a safer game than if he were the party playing the odd or two more. In any case no stroke should ever be made without a full consideration of all the various contingencies that are possible. Heedless, haphazard players never get on in the game. They may not find it an easy thing to arrange, but whenever possible the young player should strive to arrange his match with better players than himself. He may not win so many of them ; but they will do his game a lot of good, and will pull him out as nothing else will. He should be chary of accepting advice from players who are not much better than himself ; but from really good golfers he may learn much, and he should always be very observant, for probably more players have learned to play a very fine game through watching others play it than in any other way. Until he has got very far advanced the player should from time to time take a lesson from his original tutor, who will often cure him of faults into which he is dropping, perhaps unconsciously, and give him some new hint which in his then state of experience will be very timely and valuable. He will find it very good practice to go out occasionally with only one club, 126 Spalding's Athletic Library. that one being one with which he has a lot of trouble. He will discover that he can do more in the way of breaking himself into it in one hour in this way than he would do in a month by simply using the club when it came to its turn in ordinary match play. Finally, let me recommend the young player to obtain the fullest knowledge of the rules of the game and of its etiquette, so that he may never be in ignorance of the former and never be guilty of a breach of the latter, which is the worst fault a golfer can commit. He will soon learn that it is his first duty to replace the turf which is cut out in the act of playing, and he must realise that it is not enough merely to throw the turf down on the spot from where it was cut. The object of replacing is not to cover up the gash made, but to give the turf a chance to grow again, as it will do if properly laid back. The operation should therefore be performed carefully, and the turf properly and thoroughly patted back into its place with the foot. The etiquette of golf simply consists in showing a proper regard for the convenience and pleasure of others, and therefore for the good of the game. There are many ways in which this may be done, and in which alas ! it is too often left undone. For example, when a player has visited a bunker and made large marks in the sand with his heels or his club, it behoves him to fill them up carefully and rake the sand with his club before going on. If he does not, some other player's ball may be penalised most cruelly and unfairly by going into those heel or club marks. If the golfer always does to others as he would be done by he will fmd his life on the links very much pleasanter than it would be otherwise. Spalding' s Athletic Library. 1 27 XXII. THROUGH THE YEAR. He is the best golfer who best adapts himself to varying con- ditions : that is a principle which there is no gainsaying. The man who learns to adapt himself in this way is certain to come by as great improvement in his game, and he will enjoy it more. Yet one finds the general run of golfers give little thought to such questions, and go on playing the same kind of game with- out the slightest variations, from the beginning of the year to the end of it, through all the rain and winds of winter and spring, and the heat and hard courses of summer, back again to the wet of the end of the season. I should be the last in the world to countenance any unneces- sary fiddling about with one's game or trying "fancy" experi- ments more for the sake of satisfying one's curiosity than for any other reason, when the^ player's style and his methods have not become thoroughly settled down ; but this is a quite different thing from exercising a careful discrimination and using one's intelligence to the utmost extent when conditions present them- selves with which one is less familiar than usual, or with which one has not been confronted for some weeks or months, besides which it does not at all follow that the shots which are sug- gested at such times have anything of a "fancy" character about them. I will offer very briefly a few suggestions which may cause some golfer to take a less superficial view of the demands which the change of seasons make upon their capacity, and which may 12^ Spalding' s Athletic Library, lead them to a private study of situations which will be all to their benefit as players of the game which, to my mind, requires more constant thought than any other field pastime. Golf may be the same game in winter as in summer, but it is quite certain that in some respects it needs different treatment, and the changes in this treatment will vary according to the man and the place where he plays the game. Now, to begin at the beginning, the early part of the year in this country finds us in the depth of winter, when courses are for the most part heavy and difficult, putting greens sluggish, when there are high winds prevalent ; when, speaking generally, lies are not so good as at other times : the ball has little flight and less run, and doing holes in par is a more difficult task than at other times. One of the first questions I would suggest that the golfer should ask himself is, whether the clubs that he uses all through the dry season are the best possible for this one. I do not believe in having too many clubs, or in making changes in them without good reason ; but it is evident that the club that is mainly designed to pick up a ball from a good lie may not be so well adapted as another one for picking it up from a bad lie. In this matter our consideration is at once, and chiefly, attracted to the brassey, and it is a common complaint among golfers on inland courses in winter-time, especially those which are laid in suburban districts and on a clayey soil, as they so often are, that their brasseys are very little use to them, and that nearly every time they attempt to play a shot with them they are met with failure. In many cases such players — and wisely from their point of view — give up the use of their brasseys altogether until the conditions improve, and take to playing their long shots through the green with driving mashies or heavy irons, Spalding' s Athletic Library. 129 which, though more effectual, are very unsatisfactory clubs when there are distances of between two or three hundred yards between the ball and the hole to which the play is being directed. It is quite evident that the brassey which has a flat sole, and a fairly long one at that, as most brasseys have, being designed to take the ball as cleanly as possible, is very poorly adapted for play when the ball has fallen heavily without run, and has made a small cup for itself in the very soft turf. It is impossible to get at the ball with such a club without digging very heavily into the turf, and in such circumstances any good and satisfactory kind of stroke is an impossibility. Now what I recommend for winter play on such soft courses as this, where proper brassey lies are very seldom obtained, is a special kind of brassey, rather long and shallow in the face and with a curved sole. The curved sole is the chief feature, for a moment's consideration will make it plain that when the ball is taken at the middle and lowest part of the sole, as it ought to be, this part can get fairly well under the ball and get properly hold of it, without the remaining part doing any digging, and thus you will have all the advantages of playing with a club with a head and face very little wider than the ball and none of the disadvantages, and with it many full brassey shots are possible and easy which would be quite impracticable with an ordinary brassey. This type of club, which is very seldom seen in a golfer's bag, is really one of the most useful clubs that he can carry, and it can be made of excellent service on many other occasions besides this one, though I consider that its chief merit lies in its application to wet and very soft courses in such cir- cumstances as I have described. It may be just as well also to remind the player that in a 130 Spalding's Athletic Library. general way clubs with deep faces are not so well adapted to pla^-ing low-lying balls, which it is difficult to get up properly, as are clubs with shallow faces. The principle, of course, is not a binding one ; but, generally speaking, shallow-faced clubs give more rise to a ball than deep- faced ones, as they come to operate more on the under side of the ball. When the course is very wet and sticky, it . should also be borne in mind the run of the ball is generally very tricky, and it follows from this that it is as well to dispense with run as much as possible in the playing of approach shots, that is to say, that the ball should be kept up, and pitching resorted to rather than running up, although I am a strong advocate of playing the running-up shot in preference to the other type on every possible occasion when circumstances w^arrant it. But it is no use adhering to the run-up shot if you cannot have the slightest dependence on the run of the ball when the life is dying out of it. Then, of course, the winter and the early spring are the times of high winds, and there is nothing that more completely baffles a golfer of small experience, or one who is not accustomed to think deeply and theorize to a considerable extent, than a strong wind, no matter from what quarter of the compass the wind comes. It is of great importance that every player should make himself thoroughly acquainted with the best methods of dealing with winds, and he will find a little study in this department of the game more remunerative to him than, perhaps, any other. It generally happens that, in the absence of such thought and study, some of his notions on the subject are of the crudest possible description and often quite the reverse of accurate. For example, many players, if asked what was the best way of Spalding' s Athletic Library. 131 playing so as to make the best of a wind coming from the right side or the. left, would say that in the former case the proper thing to do would be to slice the ball so that it would fight against the wnnd force; while when the wind came from the right the reverse procedure should be followed, that is to say, the ball should be pulled. Generally, however, not being able either to slice or pull at will, they content themselves with playing an ordinary shot and making wind allowance, which is certainly better than doing what they say would be the proper thing if they were only able to do it. If they sliced against a wind coming from the right they might certainly keep their ball straight, but they would at the same time practically kill its flight and get the very shortest carry, because the wind and the slice would be fighting against each other all the way, and the energy of the ball would be completely exhausted m the process. The proper thing to do in such a case would be not to slice and treat the wind as an enemy, but to make a friend of it, and aiter making a very large allowance in the direction in which the stroke is aimed, to pull the ball. You would play the stroke sharply away to the right with a lot of pull, and then by the time it came round it would shoot away towards the hole with the wind much more in its favor than against it. In this way not only would the wind not be adverse, but it is possible many times to get longer balls than could be obtained if there were no wind at all, and, besides, playing a shot in this way opens up great opportunities for playing for position and making the wind of great service if a short approach shot has to be played. Thus, if it is evident that such a shot will have to be made, the wise player will naturally try to steer his ball so that if the wind is across he will have it against him for the little shot that has to 132 Spalding's Athletic Library, follow, particularly if a hazard will have to be cleared and a high shot will be called for. Pitching can be much more accurately performed when there is a wind to play against than when it will follow the ball and take it goodness knows where. The great effect of wind on short, delicate shots is very often too little appreciated. Even when playing straight up or straight down wind players often go about their strokes without thinking sufficiently. It is above all things necessary at such times to remember that to all intents and purposes they are playing on a different course from the one that they play over when there is no wind to speak of. As the length of all the shots is seriously affected, so the hazards are in different places in relation to them, and this fact must be fully weighed when calculating the play to a hole, and even in the case of straight winds like these it may often pay very much better not to play straight at the hole but sideways, so that an easier stroke may be presented for the second than would other- wise be the case. Also it will be a very good thing for the player's game if he will make himself thoroughly acquainted with the best-known methods of playing high and low, according as to whether the wind is in his favor or against him. Commonly his ideas con- sist exclusively of varying the height of his tee ; but this is a very incomplete sort of device, and as a matter of fact when a low shot is ^Dlayed properly and in the most scientific way a low tee is not needed, and I prefer a tolerably high one so that the ball may be taken quite cleanly. When playing down wind it will be a good thing if a player keeps in mind the simple rule that his weight should be well on his right foot and the ball teed away a little more to the left than usual, and that when he is Spalding' s Athletic Library. 133 playing up wind the reverse procedure should be adopted, that is, the weight should be thrown on to the left foot, and the ball should be teed to the right, or the stance arranged accordingly if it is a brassey shot and not a tee shot that has to be played. Remember that when playing in the rain the latter has natur- ally a depressing tendency on the ball and throws it down sooner than it would otherwise fall, and allowances must be made for this fact in the prelimmary calculation of the carry that has to be obtained. At this time of day I need not repeat the warning as to the danger of playing with rubber grips in wet weather, when it is almost impossible to keep the hands tight on the club; but I may mention that a very good thmg to wear to enable one to keep a tight grip, when the handles of the clubs are wet. are common cotton gloves, which I have used for this purpose on many occasions with great satisfaction. Another useful hint is that when the weather is very cold and the hands are apt to become numbed with it — and no player can play his proper game when his hands are in this state — is to wear woollen knitted cuffs over the wrists. These serve as a protec- tion to the blood veins that feed the hands, and the effect in many cases is truly wonderful. So much by way of a few suggestions as to Golf when it is wet, windy, and cold, as in the winter-time. Now let us just briefly take into consideration the reverse conditions, such as obtain in the summer-time when long spells of sunshine and heat make the courses not only very fast, but, what is more difficult to deal with, very hard. The one great thing to remember is that when links are in such a state as this, it is absolutely necessary that the ball should at all times be taken cleanly, especially in the case of second 134 Spalding ^2> 318 1906 305 304 300 Total 3,426 3,454 3,446 Thus the eleven years' championship comes out as follows : Harry Vardon 3,426 James Braid 3.446 J. H. Taylor 3,454 It will be perceived that in forty-four championship rounds played, spread over this period of eleven years, there is only a difference of twenty-eight strokes between the first man and the third, and only eight strokes between the second and third. Three times the triumvirate have occupied the top three places, and that their power is not on the wane was evinced by the fact that after an eleven years' reign they took the first, second and third places for themselves in the Open Championship at Muir- field in 1906. Spalding' s Athletic Library. What to Use for Golf Spalding claims the credit for a good part of the popularity that the game of golf has met with in the United States, mainly on account of the fact that, from the time of the introduction of golf into this country, they have consistently endeavored to improve the implements of play, working carefully over the clubs, balls and everything else required by the golf player. Their unequaled facilities, in the first place, have enabled them to work on their golf line to better advantage than other manu- facturers, and to this is added their previous experience in catering to the requirements of athletes. With Spalding there is an experience of thirty years in manufacturing and sup- plying athletic equipment, which enables them to bring to the solution of the problem of making up a new article of athletic equipment the best facilities that a manufacturer could have — experience, knowledge, and capability. All of these have helped Spalding to turn out what is universally recognized — that is, not only in the United States, but also abroad, because Spalding golf goods are used now in the British Isles and on the Conti- nent almost as generally as they are in the United States — as the most perfect line of golf goods manufactured anywhere. To start with, the Spalding Gold Medal line of Drivers and Brassies are the gradual evolution from the original Spalding clubs that they made up, at the start, after ideas given them by prominent golf players. These original Spalding cluhs have been improved each season. The material has been more carefully selected as time went on, until to-day in the Gold Medal line the golf player has furnished him clubs that are as nearly perfect in workmanship and material as it is possible to turn out an article of this character. The heads are of the finest dogwood and persimmon. The shafts are all second-growth split hickory, and particular attention has been given to the spring and balance of the club; the grips are of finest calfskin, or, if preferred, Spalding will furnish grips made of their new, patent material, rubber style, but not of rubber, which provides a rough grip that is pleasing to the feel and gives a safe grip to the player. The Spalding Gold Medal Clubs are superbly finished throughout. The price of the Drivers and Brassies is $2.50 each. Spalding s Athletic Library. In the Spalding line of Gold Medal Irons are included models that have been taken from the playing clubs of some of the best golfers in the world. Spalding has duplicated these play- ing clubs, which represent the ideas of the most prominent golf players in the world to-day, and these are included in the Spalding regular line of Gold Medal Golf Irons. They also SPALDING GOLD MEDAL DRIVERS AND BRASSIES. agree if a player prefers some other model different from any- thing that they have in their line to copy it exactly, as they can do this to the best advantage, owing to their unequaled facilities, and the price for copying such a special iron club will be the same as for the regular stock article, for, as a matter of fact, all of these Gold Medal Irons are really special clubs, Spalding' s Athletic Library, being hand-hammered from the finest mild steel. In these Gold Medal Irons the shafts are of the best second-growth split hickory, and the grips are of finest calfskin or of the new rubber style roughened grip, of the special patented material Model A— Mashie Model K — Driving Mashie The price of any of the Gold Medal which Spalding controls Irons is $2 each. In answer to calls for a satisfactory style of wood putter, Spalding is turning out two different styles made of wood Spalding' s Athletic Library. heavily weighted with lead. These are known as models A and R. Model A has a narrow head, and model R has a convex sole. Both of these putters have, attached to the face of the head and covering the face entirely, a scored brass plate. The shaft is placed directly behind point of impact, the balance is perfect, and the clubs certainly feel just right. Be?*, quality tan calfskin roughened grips furnished on these clubs. The price of the Gold Medal Wood Putters, Model<^, A and R, is $2.50 each. A very satisfactory style of juvenile golf club is furnished by Spalding, with every advantage of proportionate size, making a perfect club for the use o^-. boyf> and girls up to fourteen years of age. These are furni' the heaviest and best grade of duck suitable for the purpose, 'md in their leather bags they use solid leather, and Spalding's Athletic Library. not thin strips glued together. The handles on all of their bags are made to conform to a man's grip, and are ^'uaranteed not to break at the bend. All the bottoms are s* idded and double-sewn on special, patented machines. The *ill line of Spalding Caddy Bags, the most complete line maa ; anywhere and comprising styles of every possible descriptioK. are noted in brief below, with prices of each style specified. In the all- leather bags, full size, the following are furnished by Spalding: No. L3^. Grain leather bag, good quality, brass trim- mings, and leather bottom Price, $5 oo No. L6. Small stiff tan leather bag, snap sling and brass trimmings throughout. Long ball pocket, opening top and bottom Price, 5 00 No. L6. No. PG. No. L5. No. L4. No. L3 1-2. No. CXL. No. E. No. WB. No. L4. Imported foot ball leathef bag, brass trim- mings, leather bottom, and one of the most durable bags made Price, No. PG. Genuine pigskin bag, heavy brass harness buckle on shoulder strap, brass studs and trim- mings, leather bottom Price, No. L5. Stiff leather, best quality bag, ball pocket, and sling to match, brass trimmings, leather bottom. Price, No. L5H. Same style as No. L5, but with lock and re- movable hood for covering clubs while traveling. This caddy bag will be accepted by railroads as baggage Price, 6 00 6 00 9 00 Spalding' s Athletic Library, In the full-size canvas bags Spalding furnishes the following s-tyles : No. E. Extra heavy brown canvas bag with hood, leather trimmings, leather top and bottom, and extra large ball pocket. This bag measures yf inches in diameter, and has a removable hood, and when fast- ened with the encircling strap with the patent buckle lock will be accepted by railroads as baggage. .Price, $6 oo No. WB. White duck bag, two sizes, 7 inches and 8 inches in diameter, extra heavy solid leather shoulder strap, with patent buckle lock and leather trimmings; reinforced heavy leather bottom. ; waterproof hood to fasten with strap, and staples inside over clubs.. Price, 7 00 No. WBR. Made with heavy leather reinforcing strips running lengthwise, otherwise similar to No. WB. Price, 8 00 No. B. Like No. WB, but made of brown canvas.. Price, 7 00 No. BR. Made with heavy leather reinforcing strips running lengthwise, otherwise similar to No. B.. Price, 8 00 No. A2. Heavy tan canvas bag, 6 inches in diameter, leather trimmings; leather reinforced strips running lengthwise; sole-leather bottom, ball pocket, and sling Price, 4 00 No. ex. Light tan-colored canvas, leather bottom, ball pocket, sling to match Price, 2 50 No. CXL. Same style as No. CX, excepting that it is made larger throughout ; studs on bottom .... Price, 3 00 No. C3. Heavy brown canvas, leather trimmings; rein- forced canvas bottom; ball pocket and sling to match Price, i 7 5 No. C2. Brown canvas, leather trimmings, canvas-cov- ered wood bottom; ball pocket and sling Price, i 00 Spalding furnishes the following special styles of caddy bags for women : No. WL3. Fine bridle leather, ball pocket and sling, brass trimmings; an exceedingly fine-looking and serviceable bag Price, $5 00 No. WL3J. Grain leather bag, good quality, brass trim- mings, and leather bottom Price, 5 00 Spalding also furnishes a special style for children, known as No. 10, made of brown canvas, leather trimmings, ball pocket and sling, canvas-covered wood bottom; price, $1. In the line of Golf Sundries listed by Spalding in their special Golf Catalogue, a copy of which should be in the hands of every golf player, will be found a number of very useful articles for Spalding's Athletic Library. the ordinary golf player as well as for the expert. Spalding furnishes a very satisfactory line of Golfing Gloves. These are: No. Gi. Made of best quality soft white chamois, open knuckles, perforated back and palm. A very superior glove. Price, $2.25 per pair. No. G2. Fine soft tanned chamois, open knuckles, per- forated back and palm. Price, $1.75 per pair. No. G2L. Same quality as No. G2, but for left hand only, with reinforced leather palm. Price, $1 each. No. G3. Fingerless glove, palms reinforced, perforated backs. Price, $1 per pair. No. G4. Fingerless glove, for left hand only. Price, 50 cents each. A very useful article for golf players is what is known as the Seccomb Grip Winder, made of rubber fabric, and can be put on over regular grip. The roughened surface makes an ideal grip for all kinds of weather. This grip is known as the No. S, and the price is 15 cents each. A preparation that is also very useful is what is known as Sure Grip. This will not soil the hands, and its application insures a firm grip at all times. The price of this preparation is 25 cents per box. Players who have had some experience realize the necessity for something — either in the way of hobnails, disks or studs of some character — on the soles of their shoes when playing. Spalding furnishes everything of this kind needed. A very satisfactory style of Rubber Disk is their No. 9. With these disks it is possible for a player to go into the club house right from the golfing course, which is not so in many cases where ordinary hobnails are worn on shoes. The price of the No. 9 disks is 5 cents each, A very satisfactory style of Golf Stud is what is known as Way's style, made of highly tempered steel, screwed to sole and heel. This style of stud always insures a firm footing. The price is 10 cents each, or for a set of 12 complete, 75 cents. Hobnails cost for iron 10 cents per dozen, and for aluminum, 15 cents per dozen. Many golf players like to use a rubber grip, and for these Spalding furnishes a very satisfactory style in their No. 6, made with corrugated surface of purest Para rubber. It will fit any golf club, and insures a firm and perfect grip. The price of this No. 6 Rubber Grip is 50 cents each. Golf players like to occasionally repaint the golf balls they are using, and Spalding furnishes a most satisfactory grade of glossy golf paint. It is the same as is used exclusively by the leading makers in the United States and Great Britain, and A. G. Spalding & Bros, are the sole agents for the United States. The price of this Griffith Glossy Golf Paint, No. 11, is 50 cents per can. Another preparation, known as Golf White, also an- swers the same purpose as paint, but it dries instantly, and wiM Spalding's Athletic Library. not chip, crack, or wear off. This is furnished in either white or red, and the price for the No. 8 Golf White is 15 cents per bottle. If the ball is cleaned occasionally it materially lessens the chance of losing it, and in the form of a tobacco pouch Spal- ding furnishes two styles of ball cleaners. Their No. 2 5 is made with a rubber pouch, enclosing a sponge, into which a little water can be introduced, making an exceedingly satisfactory style of ball cleaner, and making it unnecessary to handle the ball itself until it is thoroughly cleaned. The price of this No. 25 Ball Cleaner is 25 cents each. The No. 27 Style Ball Cleaner is also made with a rubber pouch, enclosing a sponge and a cir- cular bristle brush. This style of cleaner is very effective in- deed. The price is 35 cents each for the No. '27. Another very necessary article for the golf player is a club polisher. This is furnished by Spalding, and is known as Kaddy Polish No. 1040. The price of the No. 1040 Kaddy Polish is 10 cents each. Spalding also furnishes an Emery Cloth Cleaner, con- sisting of a book of fifteen sheets of emery cloth, very effective for cleaning clubs. The price of this Emery Cloth Cleaner No. E is 20 cents each. Another very necessary article is a satisfactory style of tee. Spalding supplies two different styles, and their Anchor Tee, which, it is claimed, cannot be lost, is held on the teeing ground by the anchor, and can only move the length of the string, which is about 9 inches. The anchor is put to the left and front of the tee. The price of the No. 5 Anchor Golf Tee is 15 cents each. The ordinary rubber golf tee, regulation style, made of red rubber, is known as Spalding No. 3, and costs 5 cents each. They also furnish score sheets for large match and medal play. The price of these Score Sheets, No, L, is 15 cents each. Score books with leather case cost 50 cents each. A style of counter that has rapidly achieved popularity with golf players is what is known as the Liberty Golf Counter. The cover to which the celluloid counters are attached is pliable, and provides for easy and quick turning of disks. No pencil is required with this counter except for transferring the score from the counters to the record, and provision is also made for a permanent or yearly record. The ladies' styles furnished in the Liberty Counter are made for the belt in such a way as not to require detaching in keeping the score while playing. This Liberty Golf Counter is furnished in the following styles by Spalding: Ladies' genuine pigskin Price, $1 50 each Ladies' black seal grain Price, i 00 Gents' genuine pigskin Price, i 00 Gents' black seal grain Price, 75 Gents' tablet counters, Price, 50 Renewable fillers for the above counters Price, 1 5 No. 2. No. !■;. No. 2";. No. 26. No. 50- Spalding' s Athletic Library, In the way of supplies for golf courses Spalding has the most complete line manufactured anywhere. Their marking disks are used on every prominent course in the United States. They furnish the following styles, all made of heavy tin, painted red and white, and numbered from i to i8, to designate the num- ber of hole. The iron shaft is strongly attached to disk and is about four feet long. The following are the styles furnished in the marking discs: No. 3. Heart shape $0 60 each No. 4. Oblong shape 60 each No. 5. Pear shape, hollow i 50 each No. 6. Windmill, four flanges ... i 00 each Spalding also furnishes a very satisfactory style of marking disk known as their No. 7. This is circular, complete with a red flag, and the price is $1 each. Another necessary article for the golf course is a hole cutter. The style furnished by Spalding is made of steel, and the earth is ejected when with- drawn from hole. It is very simple and efficient, and is made of the best quality steel. The price of this No. 10 Steel Hole Cutter is $3 each. Golf-hole rims, while they appear very simple, are made in different styles, and there is all the differ- ence in these that there is between anything else which is made right as compared with something that is not made right. The Spalding simple iron hole rim is known as their No. 20, and is fitted with a crosspiece, which prevents the ball from falling to the bottom of the hole. This is a very effective arrangement, especially during wet weather, as it prevents the ball from getting soiled. The price of this No. 20 Hole Rim is 40 cents each. The patented style of hole rim furnished by Spalding is known as the Midlothian, and they claiin that it is the best hole rim ever made. This is a solid iron casting in one piece, solid enough to prevent the hole from being racked by the weight of the hole disc or flag, which is always kept in an upright position by the neck below the cup. This style of rim should be seen to be appreciated. It is known as the Spalding No. 25, and costs $1 each. Direction and marking flags are furnished by Spalding in red, white, red and white, blue and white, or any other combi- nation of colors. The price of their No. 9 Oblong Flag is 40 cents each, and for their No. 11 Flag, triangle shape, 40 cents each. Marking flags, red out, numbered from i to 9, white in, numbered 10 to 18, cost for No. 2 style, flags only, numbered, as ordered, 50 cents each, and for the No. 5 spear-head staffs, 7 feet long, 50 cents each. Metal badges for caddies, each badge numbered and with safety pin on back to fasten to cap or breast, Spalding's Athletic Library, cost 35 cents each. Putting disks, the object of which is to train the eye in putting and an article that should be on the clubhouse putting green, while they are also useful for indoor practise, cost 25 cents each. Teeing plates, round shape, made to lie flush with the ground, and used to mark the space within the limits of which the ball must be teed, cost for the No, 8 style 50 cents per pair. A very excellent article for practice in driving is what is known as Parachute Golf Ball, furnished by Spalding, with the parachute attached to the ball. It prevents the ball from traveling very far, no matter how hard hit. The price of the Parachute Golf Ball is 75 cents each. Another very excellent article for golf practice is the game of Golfette, This is not really a game, but is a device consisting of a series of nets into which the golf ball is lofted. The object of it is to loft the ball into the center net; in other words, to secure accuracy in lofting. For the purpose of keep- ing score the following count is made. The inner net counts 3, the center net 2, and the outer net i point. A distance of from 15 to 25 feet from net is proper when using this Golfette and, of course, the regular golf clubs and ball are used. The price of this No. 13 Golfette is $5 each. It is hardly necessary to describe the game of Clock Golf, but it might be stated that this is an excellent device for prac- tice in putting. Spalding furnishes two different styles. The figures are arranged in a circle from 20 to 24 feet in diameter, or of any size the lawn will admit. Each player holes out from each figure point, counting his strokes, and, with a few exceptions, the regular rules on putting apply. Sets consist of 12 figures, one marking flag, hole rim, and measuring chain for getting the proper distance for setting the figures. Spalding furnishes the set complete in boxes with descriptive circular in their No. i style, with raised figures in black on white teeing plates, for $10 per set, and in their No. 2 style, with plain, cut-out figures, painted white but not on plates, for $5 per set. Spalding's Athletic Library. What to Wear for Golf Take a golf player, a man who really plays for the love of the game, and you find some one who is a real sport. He loves the game for the benefit it is to him as a relaxation and for the amount of exercise it gives him. Such a man when he is play- ing wants to be comfortable, and it will not do for him to simply have a makeshift outfit, wearing, perhaps, his cast-off street clothes; but instead he should dress for the game, and there is no more certain means of obtaining proper clothing for golf and for any other athletic sport than by going to a Spalding store and letting them furnish the outfit. A sweater has come to be recognized as one of the necessary articles in the golfing outfit. It lends itself to the ease that one requires in the upper part of the body when playing golf; it looks well under trying circumstances, bad weather, etc. — Spalding's Athletic Library. that is, when it is made by Spalding — and is always comfort- able. Spalding furnishes a number of grades in satisfactory golfing sweaters. The No. VG Jacket Sweater, vest shape, is a very popular style. It is made of best quality worsted, heavy weight, with pearl buttons, and is made up in either gray or white. The price is $6 each. The next grade is the No. CJ, of fine worsted, standard weight, furnished with pearl buttons. Made in gray or white only. This costs $5 each. In a very satisfactory sweater. Shaker knit, also standard weight Spalding furnishes their No. 3 J, with pearl buttons and made up in gray or white only, for $4.50 each. These No. VGP. sweaters really stand at the head of the list when it comes to picking out a golfing outfit, but another popular style with golfers is the vest-collar sweater, with extreme open or low neck, as furnished by Spalding. The best grade in this style is their No. BG, furnished in gray or white only, made of finest lamb's wool and in heavy weight, ribbed at the bottom of skirt and cuffs, for $5 each. A shghtly lighter weight, but in same grade, also furnished in gray or white, is the Spalding No. CG, at $4.50, and in the Shaker knit, standard weight, the No. 3G in white or gray at $4. Spalding s Athletic Library. Some golfers like a jacket sweater with pockets. Pockets are always convenient, especially so in the golfing sweater, and the Spalding No. VGP, made up with pockets on either side and furnished in gray or white, is supplied by Spalding at $6.50 each. A copy of the Spalding Catalogue of Uniform Goods should be in the hands of every golf player, and there is included in same a list of articles needed by the golf player, and, in fact, by anyone interested in athletic sports, and this catalogue will be sent free to any address from any Spalding store. Dunng the heated term the sweater is perhaps a little heavy for golf, and Spalding supplies a very satisfctory style of jersey, light weight, made of good quality worsted and in solid colors, either navy blue, black, maroon, or gray. This jersey has V neck, and is very comfortable article for golf players. It is known as the Spalding No. 12PV Jersey, and the price is $2.50 each. No S8. No. 8. Spalding furnishes their regular line of sweaters with roll collars at prices ranging from $8 each down to $1.50 each, and these are all listed in the regular Spalding Catalogue of Uni- form Goods. They also furnish a most complete line of jerseys with roll collars at prices from $4.50 each down to $2 each. All of these are made of good quality worsted, and they are most subtantially constructed. Stripes are furnished in both jerseys and sweaters, and in anything in the Spalding line will be found every possible combination that can be thought of in a worsted article. After the sweater, to a golf player, the next most important article is the shoe. Spalding has been at the head of the list m supplying the proper goods for golf playing ever since the introduction of this sport into the United States, and, being at the head of the list in the way of supplying golf equipment, Spalding' s Athletic Library. they have not fallen behind in the matter of keeping well in advance of all manufacturers in the way of proper clothing and outfits for golf players. Their unequaled facilities for turning out the proper athletic shoes has enabled them to put out golf shoes that are as far in advance of other makers' styles as their general line of athletic equipment is in advance of the ordinary make of athletic goods found on the market. The best grade Spalding Golf Shoe is their No. 88. This is made of fine Russia calf in Oxford style, and it is a strictly bench-made shoe. Some makers call their shoes hand-made, when, as a matter of fact, there is practically no handwork in their make-up; but in the Spalding factory the hand-made shoes are really shoes that are made by cobblers at the bench. These men who turn out the hand-made shoes for Spalding are skilled. Many of them have been working on Spalding Athletic Shoes for fifteen or twenty years. They have gotten so that they have a peculiar knack that is absent in the work of the ordinary shoemaker, and this special feature in Spalding Athletic Shoes is what has brought about their great popularity. This is true not only with base ball, foot ball, basket ball, running, tennis, and gymnasium shoes, but also with their line of superior golf shoes, and at the head of the list stands this No. 88 shoe. Be- sides, being made of the very best material and the finest work- manship throughout, this shoe has a special spliced rubber sole. This is a new idea, and it is very popular with golf players. It has a full heel and studded leather toe. The shoe really must be seen to be fully appreciated, as it is really the most up-to-date golf shoe made. The price of the No. 88 Spalding Golf Shoe is $8 per pair. The next grade in Spalding Golf Shoes is the No. 8, made of finest English tan leather of Balmoral shape, with fiat sole last and box toe. The sole is made heavy enough to attach hobnails or rubber disks. This is a hand-made shoe of excellent quality throughout. The price of the No. 8 Spal- ding Golf Shoe is $7 per pair. Similar in quality and make to the No. 8, but of Oxford shape instead, is the No. 6 shoe, a very satisfactory low-cut shoe, the price of which is $6 per pair. Spalding, recognizing that there are many players who like a satisfactory style of golf shoe, with rubber sole, makes up the No. 9 shoe, with a sole bringing in the suction arrangement, same as on their basket ball shoes. This No. 9 shoe is made low cut, of russet leather; it is waterproof, and is fitted with the best red rubber suction sole. The price of the No. 9 shoe is $5 per pair. Golf players often require hobnails or rubber disks for at- taching to their shoes, and these Spalding furnishes. For the best aluminum hobnails, No. A, the price is 15 cents per dozen; Spalding's Athletic Library. for iron hobnails, No. MK, the price is lo cents per dozen; for rubber disks, satisfactory style for attaching to the soles of golf shoes, the price is 5 cents each. Many golf players use what is known as a puttee or riding leggin, and Spalding furnishes the most satisfactory style in two different grades. Their No. iP is made of genuine pigskin, modeled to shape of leg, and is tightened with a strap that goes right around. This puttee is furnished in sizes 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18-inch calf measurement. The price of the No. iP Puttee is $8 per pair. The next grade in the Spalding Puttees is their No. I, made of cowhide, nicely grained, and very similar in design to the No. iP, furnished also in the same sizes. The price of the No. i Puttee is $5 per pair. Recently, recognizing the need of proper outing shirt and trou- sers and athletic underwear, Spalding got out a most satisfactory line. These goods are all very well made, and will give the best of satisfaction. For a golf player there is really nothing better made, and the prices are exceedingly reasonable when the quality of material and the workmanship is considered. The shirts are made with two different styles of collars : No. D style is the dress-shirt, upright style, and the No. E style is the ordinary outing-shirt style flap. All of the Spalding shirts are made with full sleeves, with double pearl buttons, link style in cuffs, and button front. The No. 10 Spalding outing shirt, made of all-wool flannel, in mixed patterns, including stripes, plaids, and solid colors, costs $3 each. The No. 12, made of eden cloth, in mixed patterns, including attractive stripes and plaids, costs $2 each; and the No. 18, made of mixed cotton and wool, plain white, costs $3 each. The No. 20 Spalding shirt, made of white zephyr weave, material very attractive, costs $1.50 each. In the Spalding outing trousers great care has been taken to make them up with the idea of giving a comfortable fit. The trousers are made with one hip, one watch and two side pockets, and belt loops. The styles furnished by Spalding in their trousers are: No. 9, all-wool flannel, medium weight, plain white, price $7 per pair; No. 11, all-wool flannel, medium weight, mixed colors and stripes, $7 per pair. No. 15, all-wool flannel, light weight, mixed colors and stripes, $6 per pair; No. 19, all- wool flannel, medium weight, made of material the same quality and colors as in the best Spalding Base Ball Uniforms, price $6 per pair. Spalding also furnishes a very satisfactory style of white duck trousers known as their No. 3. These are well made, and of good quality white duck. The price of the No. 3 white duck trousers is $1.50 per pair. Spalding will send on application measurement blanks and samples of material, but Spalding s Athletic Library. if in a hurry, when ordering, take your own measurements ac- cording to the measurements shown herewith, and Spalding will make up the shirts and trousers so that they will really look well and fit comfortably. How TO Measure for Shirt. — State size of collar worn; length of sleeve from shoulder to wrist with arm raised and bent as shown (1-3); size around chest (5-5). How TO Measure for Trousers . — Around waist (A-A); inseam (D to E); around hips (B-B). For some time past it has been recognized that there was a great need for some kind of athletic wear that would be suit- able at the same time for use as underwear, during the heated term especially, but throughout the year if desired. Spalding has put out shirts and knee pants in materials which it is be- lieved has filled this need. The quality of each article is cal- culated to satisfy even the most exacting. The No. 15 white cotton-mesh sleeveless shirts cost $1 each. No. 15P white cot- ton-mesh knee pants cost $1.50 per pair. No. loE natural cotton-mesh sleeveless shirts cost $1.50 each, and the No. loEP natural cotton-mesh knee pants cost $1.50 per pair. The shirts are made in sizes from 26 to 44 inches chest measurement, and the knee pants in sizes from 28 to 42 inches waist measure. Spalding also makes knee pants of special twilled cotton goods suitable in quality, and at the same time extremely light in weight, unequaled for use in underwear or for athletic pur- poses. The No. 280 white, basket-weave, cotton knee pants cost 60 cents per pair, and the No. 210 white, twill, cotton knee pants, very light in quality, cost $1 per pair. These knee pants are made in sizes from 28 to 42 inches waist measure. There are a thousand and one other articles suitable for the athlete in general, and, indeed, also by the golf player from time to time which are listed in the Spalding Catalogue. A copy of this catalogue should be in the hands of every golf player, and will be mailed free of charge to any address on re- quest to any Spalding store, a list of which is given below: New York City — 124-128 Nassau Street and 29-33 West Forty-second Street. Philadelphia, Pa. — 1013 Filbert Street. Boston, Mass. — 73 Federal Street. Spalding' s Athletic Library. Baltimore, Md. — 2 08 -East Baltimore Street. Washington, D. C. — 709 Fourteenth Street, N. W. (Colorado Building). Pittsburg, Pa. — 439 Wood Street. Buffalo, N. Y.— 611 Main Street. Syracuse, N. Y. — University Block. Chicago — 147-149 Wabash Avenue. St. Louis, Mo. — 710 Pine Street. Cincinnati, Ohio. — Fountain Square, 27 East Fifth Street. Cleveland, Ohio — 741 Euclid Avenue. Kansas City, Mo. — 1 1 1 1 Walnut Street. Minneapolis, Minn. — 507 Second Avenue, South. Detroit, Mich. — 254 Woodward Avenue, New Orleans, La.— 140 Carondelet Street. Denver, Colo. — 161 6 Arapahoe Street. San Francisco, Cal. — 134 Geary Street. Montreal, Canada — 443 St. James Street. London, England — 53, 54, 55, Fetter Lane, Spalding Gold Medal ^ Drivers and Brassies ^ ^ THE SPALDING GOLD MEDAL WOOD CLUBS are manufactured 11 from the finest dogwood and persimmon, and are all guaranteed. / The models are duplicates of those used by some of the best golfers / I in the world ; the grips are of finest calfskin, or our new rubber style, / / roughened: and the finish is the very best; the shafts are all second / / growth split hickory, and particular attention is given to the spring and I / balance of the club. / Spalding Gold Medal Drivers and Brassies. Each, $2.50 {{ J I ^ Prices subject to chaVtge without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Comvlete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. I See inside cover page of this book. Spalding Gold Medal Irons ^^i Model A-Mashie Model K— Driving Mashie OPALDING GOLD MEDAL IRONS are hand hammered from \3 the finest mild steel. We have taken the playing clubs of some of the best golfers in the world and duplicated them, and they repre- sent our regular stock. If, however, you prefer some other model, we I I will copy'it exactly, and the price to you will be the same. Finest calf- skin or our new rubber style roughened grips on all of the above. C:::3C:::j) Each, $2.00 A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of all Athletic Sports Stores in all large cities. See inside cover page of this book. r== dDQz ^^=^ Spalding Gold Medal Model V-Cleek Model F— Mid Iron CPALDING GOLD MEDAL IRONS are hand hammered from the finest ^ mild steel. We have taken the playing clubs of some of the best golfers in the world and duplicated them, and they represent our regular stock. If, however, you pi-efer some other model, we will copy it exactly, and the price to you will be the same. Finest calfskin, or our new rubber style roughened grips on all of the above. Each, $2.00 A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Comvlete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Spoj^ts. \ See inside cover page of this book. Spalding Gold Medal Irons Model C Mashie Model F Putter Front View Q\ ^^PALDING GOLD MEDAL. IRONS are hand hammered from J^ the finest mild steel. We have taken the playing clubs of some of the best golfers in the world and duplicated them, and they repre- sent our regular stock. If, however, you prefer some other model, we will copy it exactly, and the price to you will be the same. Finest calfskin or our new rubber style roughened grips on all of the above. Each, $2.00 JUVENILE GOLF CLUBS Every part is of proportionate size, making perfect clubs for the use of boys and girls up to fourteen years of age. Drivers and Brassies. . . . Each, $1.00 Cleeks, Lofters, Putters . . " 1.00 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. 9 -Q\ d)Qz The Spalding Aluminum Golf Clubs Model C Putter Spalding " Hammer-Headed " Put;ter THE merits and points of superiority of aluminum clubs have been attested by many of the most prominent players in this country. Attention is directed particularly to our " Hammer-Headed" Putter, cut of which is shown on this page. Models D, B, L, M, C, MID. . . Each, $2.00 ** Hammer- Headed" Putter. . . Each, $2.50 Model C Putter Each, $2.50 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue oj all Athletic Spoy^ts. Stores in all large cities. See inside cover page of this book. Gold Medal Wood Putters IVIodels A and R 'T'HEY are made of wood, heavily weighted with lead. Attached to face of head and covering face entirely, is a scored brass plate. The shaft is placed directly behind point of im- pact, the balance is perfect and the clubs cer- tainly feel "just right." Made in two models. Best quality tan calfskin roughened grips. Model A, Narrow Head. Model R, Convex Sole Each, $2.50 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for (JumjAete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports, See inside cover page of this book. -.d)Qz The Spalding Hollow Steel Faced Golf Club (?^ (Patented June 8. 1897) This style club is something" that should be in the caddy bag of every golfer really interested in playing the best game possible. In con- struction it is scientifically correct, and the idea is one that needs only to be explained in order to meet with general approval. We rivet a piece of one-sixteenth inch highly tempered steel on a hollow head, and in that way give you spring and resistance combined at the point where they are required. The set consists of Cleek, Lofting Mashie, Mid-Iron and Putter. Furnished with Finest Sheepskin Roughened Grips and Best Quality throughout, ^====r::r:^==X) Each, $2.50 O — ^ ::^^^=^ Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of 1 Stores in all large cities. alt Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. ■Q Crescent Clubs fe=^ , Socket Drivers ^^ \ and Brassies cy) Brassie Driver The heads are made of the best selected dogwood and persimmon ; the shafts of second growth hickory, well sea- soned. An entirely hand - made club. All the Latest Models, Each, $1.50 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ Seeinsidecover page of this hook. Crescent (^, Jron Golf Club (?- The heads are all forged from the finest mild steel; the shafts of well- selected second growth hick- ory, thorough- ly seasoned. They are per- fect as to shape, lie and weight, and well finished. Made in rights or lefts, and for men or women. In Cleeks, Mashies, Nib- lies, Mid-Irons, Driving Irons, Lofters, Putters, and other popular models. Crescent Iron Golf Clubs. Each, $1.50 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Spoi'ts. \ See inside cover page of this book. p- (reg. u. s. pat. off.) Golf Balls We present a new ball this season, more with the idea of still further ad- vancing^ our reputation in this line rather than with any hope of great pe- cuniary gain, for it represents an initial expense that is very considerable, and, in carrying out our promise to furnish the best ball possible to produce, we have had to purchase at a great ex- pense the absolute control of the most expensive material ever used in a golf ball, and we will be compelled to retain at our factory the expert ball makers whose skill has made the Spalding Glory Ball possible. We present it, however, with the single purpose of pleasing the golfing public. Spalding Glory (^,^ f^r%\-f Rail White and Bhie Dot) OOII Dail Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. A ball that does really lead all others in every quality that goes towards the making of a perfect ball. *f q f\f\ Per dozen, I|)V.UU Spalding White Golf Ball ^4%'I'Aon. Cover made of purified white gutta. Particularly durable and without doubt the most widely-played ball ever made. Known and praised wherever the game of golf is played. tt£^ /\f\ Per dozen, Jl)D.UU ling Wizard Oftlf Rail ^^^^^ -^"^^ OUII Dail Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. Cover made of best quality gutta. We claim this ball is even better than the well-known 1903 Wizard, which was acknowledged the greatest advance up | tothattimein themanufac- ^r^ t\f\\ tureof golf balls. Perdozen, *pO.U\J| Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. Spaldi Remade Golf Balls ^ Remade White Remade Wizard [Any standard grade Solid Gutta are furnished. RUBBER. CORED These balls are recovered, not merely remolded, and fresh elastic is added to take the place of the small quantity immediately under the cover which deteriorates during its life as a new ball. O;^-0 C— -0 o Spalding "White" Remade Golf Balls Per dozen, $4.00 Spalding "Wizard" Remade Golf Balls Per dozen, $4.00 Remaking where old balls are furnished. Per dozen, $2.50 No Remade Rubber Cored Golf Balls accepted for Remaking. Cc 'UD' :0 (? Remade Solid Guttapercha Balls Per dozen, $2.50 Balls will be remade where old balls Per dozen, $1.00 Prices subject to change without notice \^ A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Sto7-es %n all lar{ e cities. all Athletic Sports. I See inside cover page }f this hook. Q ^Spalding Caddy Bagso^ We use in our canvas bags the heaviest and best grade of duck suitable for the purpose. In our leather bags we use solid leather and not thin strips glued to- gether. All our handles are made to conform to a man'sgrip and are guaranteed not to break at the bend. All the bottoms are studded and double sewn o n our own patented machines. Stiff leather bags are put up in individ- ual pasteboard boxes. No PG No L5 No.Lh No L 3'< All- Leather Caddy Bags lo. L3'^. Grain leather bag, good quality, brass trimmings and leather bottom. ...... Each, $5.00 lo. L6. Small stiff tan leather bag, snap sling and brass trimmings throughout. Long ball pocket opening top and bottom. $5.00 ro. L4. Imported foot ball leather bag, brass trimmings, leather bot- tom. This is one of the most durable bags made. Each, $6.00 ro. PC. Genuine pigskin bag, heavy brass harness buckle on shoulder strap, brass studs and trimmings, leather bottom. Each, $ I O.OO fo. L5. Stiff leather, best quality bag, ball pocket and sling to match, brass trimmings, leather bottom. . . Each, $6.00 Fo. L5H. Same style as our No. L5. but with lock and removable hood for covering clubs while traveling. This caddy bag will be accepted by railroads as baggage. . . . Each, $9.00 Styles for Women lo. WL3 . Fine bridle leather, ball pocket and sling, brass trimmings : an exceedingly fine looking and serviceable bag. Each, $5. OO fo. WL3/4. Grain leather bag, good quality, brass trimmings and leather bottom. ..... Each, $5.00 Prices subject to change w ithout notice A. G. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. I See inside cover page of this book. ziDQz ^Spalding Caddy Bagscr^ Canvas Bags No. E . Extra heavy brown canvas bae:, with hood, leather trimmings, leather top and bottom and extra large ball pocket. This bag measures 7^ inches in diameter, and has a removable hood, and when fastened with the encircling strap with the patent buckle lock will be accepted by railroads as baggage. Each, $6.00 No. WB. White duck bag. two sizes. 7 inches and 8 inches diameter, extra heavy solid leather shoulder strap with patent buckle lock and leath- er trimmings; reinforced heavy leather bottom; water- proof hood to fasten with strap and staples inside over clubs. . Each, $7.00 No. WBR. Made with heavy leather reinforcing strips running lengthwise, other- wise similar to No. WB. Each, $8.00 No. B - Like No. WB, but made of brown canvas. $7.00 No. BR, Made with heavy leather reinforcing strips running lengthwise. Otherwise simi- lar to No. B. Each, $8.00 No. A2. Heavy tan canvas bag, 6 inches diameter, leather trimmings, leather reinforced strips running lengthwise; sole leather bottom, ball pocket and ring, .... Each, $4.00 No. CXL No. WB No. No. No. No. No. ex. Light tan colored canvas, leather bottom, large ball pocket ; sling to match. ..... Each, $2.50 CXL. Same style as No. CX, excepting that it is made larger throughout; studs on bottom. . , . Each, $3.00 C3. Heavy brown canvas, leather trimmings ; reinforced canvas bottom, ballpocket and sling to match. . Each, $1.75 C2. Brown canvas, leather trimmings, canvas covered wood bot- tom ; ball pocket and sling. . . . Each, $ I .OO Fo r Children (?- 10. Brown canvas, leather trimmings, ball pocket and sling, can- vas covered wood bottom. . . . Each, $I.OO Prices subject to chance without notice A. C. SPALOrNC & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue oj I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ Seeinsidecover page of this book. Winslow Patent Caddy Bags PATENTED There is hardly a g'olf player who hasnotsighed for a bag so constructed that it would contain within itself the attri- butes of a perfect caddy bag and at the same time the all-around usefulness of a suit case or traveling bag. :DQi No. 1 Nrt 1 Made of extra i^v. 1. j^g^^y brown canvas, leather bottom with studs, leather trim- mings and extra large ball pocket. Heavy brass harness buckle on shoul- der strap and small brass buckles on pocket fasten- ings. Pocket opens from outside and is large enough to hold extra shoes, sweater or shirt and other necessary equipmenit. Furnished with additional straps for fastening tfo (\/\ clubs inside, H^O.UU No 2 Showing Interior Arrangement of Bag. No 2 ^^^® *^^ same material as No. 1, but constructed with division * • down center of bag inside, so that compartment for clothing does not interfere with clubs in other section of bag. Furnished also with waterproof hood, equipped with straps and buckles, so that <1» Q {\f\ clubs can be covered up and protected from rain or dampness. h>V»vIV/ We believe the desired result lias been attained in the Wi7isloiv Caddy \ Bags described above, both of which are protected by patents. Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. Seccomb Grip Winder Grip made of rubber fabric. Can be put over regular grip. The rough-, ened surface makes an ideal grip for all kinds of weather. No. S. Per grip, 15c. Sure Grip A preparation that will not soil the hands and insures a firm grip at all times. . Per box, 25c. Rubber Grips No. 6. Corrugated Grip, made of purest Para rubber. Will fit any golf club, and insures a firm and perfect ") grip. Highly commended by expert golfers. . 50c Prices subject to change without notice A. G. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. I See inside cover page of this book. / ■& :DCz ^OLF ING GL OVES /7 No. Gl. Best quality soft white Chamois, open knuckles, perforated back and palm. A very superior glove. Per pair, $2.25 No. G2. Fine soft tanned Chamois, open knuckles, per- forated back and palm. . . . Per pair, $1.75 No. G2L. Same quality as No. G2, but for left hand only, with reinforced leather palm. . . Each, $1.00 No. G3. Fingerless Glove, palms reinforced, perforated backs Per pair, $1.00 No. G4. Fingerless Glove, for lefthand only. Each, .50 G X) Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING Sc BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities, all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. MARKING DISCS b No. 6 No. 3 No. 5 No. 7 No. 4 Made of heavy tin, painted red and white and numbered 1 to 18, to designate the number of hole. The iron shaft is strongly fastened to disc and about four feet long. No. 3, Heart shape Each, $ .60 No. 4. Oblong shape. ... '' -60 No. 5- Pear shape, hollow. . " i .50 No. 6. Windmill, four flanges. '' I .OO No. 7- Circular, complete with red flag. I .OO Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. DIRECTION AND MARKING FLAGS No. 11 No. 2 Colors: Red, White, Red and White, Blue and White, or any other combination of colors. No. 9, Flags only, oblong- shape. Each, 40c, Flags only, triangle shape. ' ' 40c . No. I I G- 13 MARKING FLAGS Red out, numbered 1 to 9. White in, numbered 10 to 18. No. 2. Flags only, numbered as ordered. / Each, 50c,' No. 5, Spear head-staffs, 7 feet. ■'' 50c. Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. dDQz Steel Hole Cutters For cutting the hole in center of putting green. The earth is ejected when withdrawn from hole, as shown in cut. Simple and efficient and made of best quality steel. No. 10. Steel Hole Cutter. Each, $3.00 The Midlothian Golf Hole Rim (Patented) The best hole rim ever made, solid iron casting, one piece. Pronounced by experts the finest rim on the marked. It is solid enough to pre- vent the hole from being racked by the weight of the hole disc or flag, which is kept always in an upright position by the neck below the cup. No. 25. Golf Hole Rim. . Each, $ 1 .00 Metal Badges For Caddies Each badge numbered and safety pin on back to fasten to cap or breast. No. 1. . . Each, 35c. d Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of \ Stores in all large cities, all Athletic Sports. See inside cover page of this book 1 Griffith Bros. (S^ Co. London Q^ Glossy Golf Painty A. G. Spalding (Si» Bros., Sole Agents for United States QRlFFITH'i |SEDEXCLUSlVEiy 0' •ILVERTOWN BAL| HIGHEST QUAirrV -Ready for usl- Used exclusively on the best golf balls by the leading makers in the United States and Great Britain. No. 11 Per can, 50c. Golf White No. 8. \ Per bottle, 15c. Dries instantly. N O N Will not chip, crack or wear off. — nOn — Furnished in White or Red . I Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. \ See inside cover page of this book. =DQ=z TEEING PLATES pOUND shape, * ^ made to lie flush with the ground and used to mark the space within the lim- its of which the ball must be teed. No. 8. Pair, 50co PUTTING DISC The object in using this disc is to train the eye in putting. Exceedingly useful for indoor practice. No. 1. Putting Disc. Each, 25c. II IRON HOLE KIMS For lining holes in putting green. The cross- piece prevents ball from falling to bottom of hole. No. 20. With cross-piece. Each, 40c. WAY'S GOLF STUDS Made of highly tempered steel. Screwed to sole and heel. Will always insure firm footing. No. 11. Stud with screw Each, 10c. No. lis. Set of 12, complete. . . . ** 75c. HOB NAILS No. MK. Iron Hob Nails. . Dozen, 10c. No. A. Aluminum Hob Nails. 15c. Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. I See insidccover page of this hook. ^^ No. 6. Fine English tan leather, Golf Oxford or low cut Golf Shoe, made up same as the Balmoral No. 8 Shoe. $6.00 No. 9. Low cut russet leather, waterproof, with best red rubber suction sole Per pair, $5.00 No. A. Aluminum Hob Nails. . . Dozen, .15 No. MK. Iron Hob Nails. ... " .10 Rubber Discs. Each, .05 1 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING Sl BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of- I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. | See inside cover page of this book. :DQ=: ''\ M Spalding Fine Hand Made Golf Shoes No. 88, Fine Russia calf Golf Oxford, made throughout. Spliced rubber sole hand (new The idea), full heel and studded leather toe. most up-to-date and best golf shoe made. Per pair, $8.00 No. 8. Fine English tan leather Golf Balmoral, , new shape, flat sole last, box toe. Sole made / heavy enough to attach hob nails or rubber discs. Per pair, $7.00 P- Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. I See inside cover page of this book: -Q jT sT sT 5^ Spalding ^ yestshape jacfcct S wcatcrs No. VG, pearl only. No. CJ. pearl only. No. 3J. pearl only. SPECIAL NOTICE 117^ will furnish any of our reg- ular jacket sweat- ers with body and sleeves of one color and a different color cuffs and edging, hut only in stock colors, at no extra charge. No. VG . Best quality worsted, heavy weight, buttons. Made up in gray or white Each, $6.00 Fine worsted, standard weight, buttons. Made up in gray or white Each, $5.00 Standard weight, shaker knit, buttons. Made up in gray or white Each, $4.50 Prices subject to change without notice A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue of I Stores in all large cities. all Athletic Sports. | See inside cover page of this book. ^ ^ ^ ^ 'ff Spalding Golf Sweaters Vest Collar No. BG. No. BG. Gray or white only with extreme open or low neck. A popular golfing sweater, good weight. Made of finest lambs' wool. Ribbed at bottom of skirt and cuffs. $5.00 No. CG. Standard weight, ' 'Highest Quality" knit. Made in gray or white only. $4.50 No. 3G. Standard weight, Shaker knit. Made in gray or white only. . . Each, $4.00 1 Prices subject to change without notice. A. C. SPALDING & BROS Send for Cotnplete Catalogue of all Athletic Sports. Stores in all large cities. See inside cover page of this book. 'hfi p Durand'Steel Lockers WOODEN LOCKERS are objec- tionable because they attract vermin, absorb odors, can be easily broken into, and are dan- gerous on account of fire. Lockers made from wire mesh or expanded metal af- ford little security, as they can be easily entered with wire cutters. Clothes placed in them become covered with dust andthelockers themselves presenta poor appearance, resembling animal cages. Ourand-Steel Lockers are made of high-grade steel plates, and are fin- ished with gloss-black Furnace baked Japan (400''), comparable to that used on hospital ware, which will never flake off nor require refinishing. as do paints and enamels. Durand'Steel Lockers are usual ly built with doors perforated full length in panel design, with sides and backs sol id. This pre- vents clothes in one locker from coming in contact with wet gar- ments in adjoining lockers, while plenty of ventilation is secured by having the door perforated its entire length, but if the pur- chaser prefers we perforate the backs also. The cost of Durand-Steel Lockers is no more than that of first-class wooden lockers, and they last as long as the building, are sanitary, secure, and in addition, are fire- proof. We are handling lockers as a spe- cial contract business, and ship- ment will in every case be made direct from the factory in Chi- cago. If you will let us know the number of lockers, size, and ar- rangement, we shall be glad to , ■ o' 1 -r- ^^^^ "P through correspondence^ 1 hree Lockers in bingle 1 ler the matter of prices A. C. SPALDING & BROS. Send for Complete Catalogue oj \ Stores in all large cities. Six Lockers m Double Tier all Athletic Sports. See inside cover page of this book. rnpHE FOLLOWING INDEX FROM I SPALDING'S LATEST CATALOGUES 1 WILL GIVE AN IDEA OF THE GREAT VARIETY OF ATHLETIC GOODS MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY A. G. SPALDING & BROS. : : : : Page Abdomen Protector.... .'51, 72 Archery Goods 78, 79 Athletic Paraphernalia. 82 Badminton 69 Bags, Bat 21 Bags, Bathing Suit.... 32 Bags, Caddy 66, 67 Bags, Striking 102, 103 Bags, Uniform 21 Balls, Base 4-7 Balls, Basket 84, 85 Balls, Croquet 76 Balls, Foot 70, 71 Balls, Hand 94 Balls, Field Hockey... 74 Balls, Indoor Base 92 Balls, Golf 64, 65, 69 Balls, Lacrosse 88 Balls, Medicine 114 Balls, Polo 89 Balls, Tennis 48, 49 Balls, Squash 56 Balls, Volley 94 Balls, Water Polo 94 Bandages, Elastic .... 30 Bars, Ash Ill Bar Stalls 115 Bars, Doorwav 118 Bases. Base Ball 20 Bases, Indoor 92 Basket Ball Wear 86, 87 Bats, Base Ball 8-10 Bats, Indoor 92 Bat Bags, Base Ball.. 21 Bathing Suits 32-33 Belts 25, 72 Bladders 71,85,103 Bows, Archery 78, 79 Caddy Bags 66, 67 Caps, Base Ball 26 Caps. University 27 Centre Forks, Iron 54 Centre Straps, Canvas. 54 Chest Weights 106, 107 Circle, 7-ft 82 Clock Golf 69 Coats, Base Ball 24 Corks, Running 35 Covers, Racket 54 Cricket Goods 57 Croquet Goods 76 Discus, Olympic fel Disks, Striking Bag.. 104, 105 Dumb Bells 110, 111 Elastic Bandages 30 Emblems 2( Equestrian Polo Exercisers, Home Exercisers, Whitely . . Fencing Goods Field Hockey Sticks.. Flags, College Foot Balls Foul Flags Gloves, Base Ball Gloves, Boxing Gloves, Fencing Gloves, Foot Ball Gloves, Golf Gloves, Striking Bag. Goals, Basket Ball. . . Goals, Field Hockey.. Goals, Foot Ball Goals, Lacrosse Goals. Polo Golf Clubs Golf Goods Grips, Athletic Guy Ropes and Pegs. Gymnasium, Outdoor. . Hammers, Athletic... Handle Covers, Rubbe Hats, University Home Gymnasium .... Horizontal Bars Hurdles, Safetv Hob Nails Horns, Umpires' Page 75 120 120 95-98 74 83 70-71 20 16, 17 99-101 97 31 67 103 85 74 71 58. 63 58-69 35 53 121 r 54 27 116 nS, 119 82 . 41, 67 82 Indian Clubs 110,111 Indoor Base Ball 92 Inflaters, Striking Bag. 103 Jackets, Swimming 32 Jerseys 38 Knee Tights 37 Knickerbockers 37, 73 Lacrosse 88 Lanes for Sprints 82 Lawn Bowls 77 Lockers 124 Markers, Tennis 55 Masks, Base Ball 18 Masks, Fencing 98 Mattresses 118 Medicine Balls 114 Megaphones 83 Mitts, Base Ball 11-15 Mitts, Striking Bag... 103 Nets, Tennis 50, 51 Numbers, Competitors'. 35 SPALDING'S ILLUSTRATED CATA- LOGUE AND PRICE LIST FURNISHED FREE UPON APPLICATION TO ANY OF SPALDING'S STORES-FOR LOCA- TION OF WHICH SEE INSIDE FRONT COVER OF THIS BOOK. :::::: Page Page Paint. Golf 60 Shoes, Gymnasium . . . 43 Pants, Base Ball 25 Shoes, Indoor Jumping. 35 Pauts, Cricket 36 Shoes, Jumping 34, 35 Pants, Foot Ball 73 Shoes, Indoor Running. 35 Pants, Running 35 Shoes, Running 34 Parallel Bars 119 82 Shoes, Squash Shoes, Tennis 41 Pistol, Starter's 42 Plates, Base Ball Shoe 20 Shoe Plates, Base Ball 20 Plates, Home 20 Shot ■ 80 Plates, Marking 55 Skates, Roller 90, 91 Plates, Pitchers' Toe.. 20 Skull Caps 73 Plates, Pitchers' Box. . 20 Sleeve Bands 83 Poles, Vaulting 81 Slippers, Bathing 32 Polo, Equestrian Polo, Roller 75 89 V9 Stop Board 82 Presses, Racket 54 Stop Watch 82 Protection for Shoe Plates Supporters > 31 28 Supporters, Ankle 28 30 Protection for Shoe Suspensories 31 72 Spikes 35 Sweaters 24, 39 40 Protectors, Base Ball.. 19 Swivels, Striking Bag. 102 Protector, Thumb 85 Push Ball 94 Take-Off Board 82 Pushers, Chamois 35 Tape, Rubber Adhesive b4 Puttees, Golf 41 Tapes, Marking Tapes, Measuring .... Sab 82 Quoits 114 Targets, Archery 79 Tennis Rackets 44-47 Racket Covers 54 44-47 50 5 51 Rackets, I.awn Tennis. Tennis Posts 1-.'>3 Rackets. Squash Tennis 56 54 55 Racket Presses Tights, Full Length... 37 Rackets Restrung 49 56 m Rackets, Squash Trapeze 117 Reels for Tennis Posts 53 Trousers, Tennis, Out- Rings, Swinging 116,117 ing 36 Rink Skates 91 Trousers, Y. M. C. A. 37 77 Trunks, Velvet Trunks, Worsted 37 32 Rowing Machines 108, 109 Score Books, Base Ball Score Books, Basket Ball 21 85 Umpire Indicator Uniform Bags Uniforms, Base Ball... Uniforms, Indoor Underwear, Athletic. . . 21 21 Score Books, Golf Score Books, Tennis... Scoring Tablets 69 54 21 93 36 Shin Guards 72, 74, 89 Varnish for Gut P4 Shirts, Base Ball 25 Vaulting Standards 81 Shirts, Outing 36 Volley Ball Standards. 94 Shirts, Quarter Sleeve. 37 Shirts, Sleeveless 37 Waist Reducing Ma- Shoes, Base Ball Shoes, Basket Ball 28 113 87 Wan^Js 111 Shoes, Bowling 42 Watches, Stop 82 Shoes Cross Country.. Shoes, Cricket 34 32 42 Weights, 5(J-Ili 80 Shoes, Fencing 97 Whistles, Referees' . . . 82 Shoes, Foot Ball 72 Wrist Ma.hines 120 Shoes. Golf 41 Wrestling Machines... 113 !UL 3 1907 Albert G. and J. Walter Spalding commenced business March 1st, 1876, at Chicago, under the firm name A. G. Spalding & Bro., with a capital of $800. Two years later their brothef-in-law, William T. Brown, came into the business, and the firm name was then changed to A. G. Spalding & Bros. The business was founded on the Athletic reputation of Mr. A. G. Spalding, who acquired a national prominence in the realm of Sport, as Captain and Pitcher of the Forest City's of Rockford, 111. (1865-70), the original Boston Base Ball Club (Champions of the United States, 1871-75), and the Chicago Ball Club C1876-77), first Champions of the National League. He was also one of the original organizers, and for many years a director, of the National League of America, the premier Base Ball organization of the world. Mr. Spalding has taken an important part in Base Ball afifairs ever since it became the National Game of the United States at the close of the Civil War in 1865. The returning veterans of that War, who had played the game as a camp diversion, dis- seminated this new American field sport throughout the country, and thus gave it its national character. Base Ball Goods were the only articles of merchandise carried the first year, the total sales amounting to $11,000. Gradually implements and accessories of Athletic Sports were added, until the firm now manufacture the requisites for all kinds of Athletic Sports, Originally the firm contracted for their supplies from outside manufacturers, but finding it impossible, by this method, to keep the standard of quality up to their high ideals, they gradually commenced the manufacture of their own goods, and by the acquisition from time to time of various establishcJ factories located in dififerent parts of the country, are now able to, and do manufacture in their own factories everything bearing the Spalding Trade-Mark, which stands the world over as a guarantee of the highest quality. There are over three thousand persons employed in various capacities in A. G. Spalding & Bros.' factories and stores located in all the leading cities of the United States^ Canada and England. A capital of over $4,000,000 is employed in carrying on this busi- ness, and the annual sales exceed the total combined annual sales of all other manufacturers in the world making a similar line of goods. A. G. Spalding & Bros, have always taken a leading part in the introduction, encouragement and support of all new Sporto and Games, and the prominence attained by Athletic Sports in the United States is in a very great measure due to the energy, enterprise and liberality of this progressive concern. They were the pioneers, and in fact the founders, of the Athletic Goods Trade in America, and are now universally recognized as the undisputed Leaders in the Athletic Goods line throughout the world. The late Marshall Field of Chicago, America's greatest Mer- chant, speaking of the business of A. G. Spalding & Bros., said: "I am familiar with its early career, growth and development, and when I compare its unpromising outlook and the special field for its operations that existed at- its inception in 1876, with its present magnitude, I consider it one of the most remarkable mercantile successes of the world." The millions of Athletes using them, and the thousan ' 'Oealers selling them, attest to the High Quality of Spa hletic Goods, and they must determine the future h' onceriu ^ ATHLETIC LIBRARY A^separaite book covers every Athletic Sp and is Official and Standard Price 10 cents each GRAND PRIZE GRAND PRl ST. LOUIS, 1904- PARIS, 19( 3UIS,1904._. ^"* ^ ^ ^ -,-. ^-^ "" SPALDING ATHLETIC GOODS I THE STANDARD OF TH E WORT .G.SPALDING & BROS. L^_..^ , "ETAIL STORES in the FOLLOWIi ICAGO ' OUIS ^ ^'NNATI '•Hw? i .- ^> ^ >?^^.^ '^^ ^' '-^"mr ■%,<^'" ^\^ ^ ^--^^^ s °.. : •>^ %. ^^^ ^^ /^ s ' « / o V ^'^^^ A ■x\^' X^^^ Tj: -^^ :;^ x^ -/-.. t ^. V -^^ .^\#'