Book _._^a- 157 COEOaGHT DEPCsrr. THE PILGRIM'S VISION. I THE INNOCENTS ABROAD, THE NEW PILGEIMS' PROGRESS; BEING SOMK ACCOUNT OF THE STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY'S PLEASURE EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND; WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS, INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES, AS THEY APPEARED TO THE AUTHOR. WITH TWO HUNDRED AND THffiTY-FOUIl HiLUSTRATIONS. MARK TWAII^, (SAMUEL L. CLEMENS.) (iSgUSD BY SUBSCRIPTION OrTLT, A!TD NOT FOR SALS I IV THE BOOKSTORES. RESDagrTS Or ANY STATB DCSOUKa A COPY SHOUU) ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS, AND AN AGENT 'WILL CAU. UPON THXM.) hartford, conn. American Publishing Company. 1897. V5 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1869, by AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY, In the Cleiik's Office of thk District Court of Connecticut. copykight, 1897, By The Amer!!Can Publishing Company Hartford, Conn. M.Y M-OST Patient Readei\ AND M.OST Chai\itable pi\iTic, This Volume is Affe ctj on ate ly Inscribed- PEEFAOE. This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomjjrehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet n(jt- withstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a jjurpose, which is, to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who travelled in those countries before him. I make small pretence of showing any one how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea — other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need. I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travel- writing that may be charged against me — for I think I hai t? seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not. In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California^ of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters Avritten for the NcAV York Tribune and the New York Herald. THE AUTHOR. San FRANC^sco. PAOB 1. The QtTAKEE City IX A Storm Frontispiece — 2. Illuminated Title-Page— The Pilgrim's Vision — 8. " I 'll Pay Toir in Paris " 28 4. The Start 80 5. " Good Morning, Sir " 84 6. The Old Pirate 86 7. Dancing Under Difficl-lties , 42 8. The Mock Trial 44 9. "Land, ho!" 49 10. The Capote 52 11. EtriN and Desolation 53 12. Port or Horta, Fatal (Full Page), face page 56 18. " Sekki- Yah ! " 59 14. Beautiful Stranger 64 15. Rook of Gibraltar (Full Page), face page ■. 65 16. ' Queen's Chair ' 67 17. The Oracle 70 18. The Interrogation Point 71 19. Garrison at Ma lab at 72 20. Entertaining an Angel 74 21. "View OF A Street IN Tangier 77 22. Change for a Napoleon , - 81 23. The Consul's Family SS 24. " Poet Lariat " 91 25. First Supper in France 95 26. Painting 96 27. Ringing for Soap 99 28. " Wine, Sir I " 100 29. The Pilgrim 101 80. The Prisoner 108 81. Homeless France (Full Page), face page 106 82. Railroad Official IN France 108 33. " Five Minutes for Eefrerhme s-ts.'" A merica 109 Jllustrations. PAGE 84. " Thibtt Minutes foe Dinnek." Fbanoe 110 85. The Old Tbavellee Ill 86. A Decided Shave 115 87. A GrAS-TLT SrBSTITUTE IIT 8S. The Thbbe Gitides 119 89. " Ze Silk Magazin " 122 40. Eetuen in "W ae Paint 124 41. Napoleon III 126 42. Abdul Aziz 126 48. The Moegue 132 44. "We took a walk 185 46. The Can-Can 186 46. Geates of Abelaed and Hbloise 141 47. A Paib of Canons of 18th Centuet 142 48. The Peivate Maekiage 144 49. Amekican Drinks 14S 50. EoTAL Honors to a Yankek 150 51. The Gkisette 151 52. Fountain at Versailles 154 53. Women of Genoa 161 54. Petrified Lackey 163 55. Priest and Feiar 164 56. Statue of Columbus 1 68 57. Graves of Sixty Thousand 169 58. EooF AND Spiees of Cathedral at Milan (Full Page), face page 172 59. Centeal Door of Cathbdeal at Milan 178 60. Interioe of Cathedeal at Milan 174 61. Boyhood's Experience 176 62. Treasures of the Cathedral 179 6S. Cathedral at Milan 181 64. La Scala Theatre 184 65. Copying from Old Masters , 191 66. Facial Expression 194 67. The Echo > 196 68. Note Book 197 69. A Kiss for a Franc 198 70. The Fumigation 200 71. LakeComo 202 72. Garden, Lake Como( Full Page), Face Page 204 78. Social Driver 207 74. Wayside Sheine 208 75. Peace and Happiness 209 76. Castle of Count Luigi 210 77. The Wicked Brother 216 78. Disgusted Gondolier 220 79. Cathedral of St. Maek 226 SO. Tub Peg 229 81. " Good-by " 280 82. M'sibur Gor-e-dong 234 S3. Monument to the Doge 236 84. St. Maek. By the Old Mastees 238 85. St. Matthew. By the Old Masters , 238 86. St. Jerome. By the Old Mastees 288 87. St. Sebastian. By the Old Mastees 239 88. St. Unknown. By the Old Masters 289 Illustrations. PAGE 89. EiALTo Bridge 241 90 Bridge of Sighs 241 91. Florence 245 ^2. The Pensioner 246 98. " I Want to go Home " 248 94. The Leaning Tower 250 95. The Contrast 258 96. Italian Pastimes 263 97. Incendiary DocrrMBNT 264 98. A Roman of 1869 26T 99. Mamertine Prison 276 100. Old Roman 278 101. Coliseum of Ancient Rome 281 102. Did not Complain 285 108. Humboldt House 286 104. Dan 288 105. Bronze Statue 289 106. Penmanshlp 291 107. On a Bust 293 108. Vaults of the Convent 299 109. Dried Convent Fruits S02 110. At the Stoke 808 111. At Home. 804 112. Soothing the Pilgrims 309 118. Ascent op Mt. Vesuvius 318 114 Bat of Naples 316 115. The Mustang 319 116. Island of Capki 320 117. Blue Grotto 321 lis. Vesuvius and Bay of Naples (Full Page), face page 828 119. The Descent 325 ' 120. Ruins, Pompeii 327 121. FoEUM of Justice, Pompeu 880 122. House, Pompeii 885 123. Steomboli 888 124. View op the Acropolis, looking "West 341 125. " Ho 1" 843 126. The Assault 344 127. The Caryatides 346 128. The Parthenon (Full Page), pace page 348 129. "We Sidled, not Raij 850 130. Ancient Acropolis 852 181. Tail Piece, Ruins 353 182. Queen of Greece 355 133. Palace at Athens 356 134. Street Scene in Constantinople (Full Page) face page 359 135. Goose Rancher 860 136. Mosque op St. Sophia. 363 137. Turkish Mausoleum 365 138. Slandered Dogs 871 189. The Censor on Duty 374 140. Turkish Bath 878 141. Fae-Away-Moses • 382 142. A Fragment 885 143. Tail-Piece— A Memento 886 Illustrations. ix PA&B 144. Yalta FROM THE Emperor's Palace 392 145. Emperok of Russia 893 146. Tinsel King 399 147. Ship Emperok 404 148. The Reception 405 149. Street Scene in Smyrna 411 150. Smyrna. 413 Ipl. An Apparent Success 416 152. Drifting to Starboard 419 158. ASpoiledNap 420 154. Ancient Amphitheatre at Ephesus 423 155. Modern Amphitheatre at Ephesus 423 156. EuiNS op Ephesus 424 15T. The Journey 425 15S. G-RAVES of the Seven Sleepers 429 159. The Selection 434 160. Camping Out 486 161. Tail Piece— Aeabs' Tents 43T 162. A Good Feeder. 489 163. Interesting Fete 440 164. Sunday School Grapes 442 165. An Old Fogy 445 166. Race with a C'amei ... 446 167. Temple of the Sun 447 168. Ruins of B aalbeo 449 169. Hewn Stones in Quakry 450 170. Mercy 452 171. Patron Saint 458 172. Water Carrier 455 173. View op Damascus, (Full Page) face page 456 174. Street C.\ks of Damascus 460 175. Full Dressed Tourist. 466 176. I.MPROMPTU Hospital 474 177. The Horse " Baalbec " 476 178. Oak of Bashan 479 179. Dangerous Arab 482 180. Grimes on the "War-Path 483 181. Tail-Piece — Bedouin Camp 487 182. Home of Ancient Pomp 489 183. Jack 490 184. A Disappointed Audience 491 185. Fig-Tkee 495 186. " Fare too High " 497 187. Syrian House 504 183. Tiberias and Sea of Galilee 506 189. The Guard 51Q 190. Mount Tabor 521 191. Tail-Piece— Gatheeino Fuel 524 192. Fountain of the Virgin 530 193. " Madonna- LIKE Beauty " 531 194. Putnam Outdone 533 195. The Bastinado , , . 535 196. "IWept" ... 53b 197. Want OF Dignity 539 i98. An Oriental Well 544 X Illustrations, PAGB 199. Arabs Saluting 545 200. Free Sons of the Desert 546 201. Shechem 552 202. Tail Piece — Gate of Jerusalem 556 203. Beggars in Jerusalem 559 204. Church op the Holy Sepulchre .'. 564 205. Grave of Adam 566 206. View of Jerusalem (Full Page), face page 574 20T. The "Wandering Jew 577 20s. Mosque of Omar 581 209. An Epidemic 589 210. Charge on Bedouins 590 211. Dead Sea 594 212. Grotto op the Natititt (Full Page), pace page 601 213. Jaffa (Full Page), face page 606 214. Rear Eletation of Jack 610 215. Street in Alexandria 611 216. Viceroy of Egypt , gl2 217. Eastern Monarch 614 218. Moses S. Beach 615 219. KooM No. 15 617 220. The Nilometer 620 221 Ascent of the Pyramids 622 222 High Hopes Frustrated 625 223 King's Chamber in the Pyramid, (Full Page), face page 626 224. A Powerful Argument 627 225. Pyramids and Sphyks, (Full Page), face page 629 226. The Relic Hunter -630 227 The Mameluke's Leap 631 228. Would not be Comforted 633 229. Tail Piece, The Traveler 634 230 Hojieward Bound 635 231. Bad Coffee 639 232 Our Friends the Bermudians 640 233. Captain Duncan 641 234 Tail Piece, Finis 651 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE Popular Talk of the Excursion — Programme of the Trip — Duly Ticketed for the Excursion — ^Defection of the Celebrities 19 CHAPTER II. Grand Preparations — An Imposing Dignitary — The European Exodus — Mr. Blucher's Opinion — Stateroom No. 10 — The Assembling of the Clans — xit Sea at last 26 CHAPTER III. " Averaging " the Passengers — " Far, far at Sea " — Tribulation among the Patriarchs — Seeking Amusement under Difficulties — Five Captains in the Ship 32 CHAPTER IV. The POgrims Becoming Domesticated — Pilgrim Life at Sea — " Horse-Billiards " — The "Synagogue" — The Writing School — Jack's "Journal'' — The "Q. C. Club"— The Magic Lantern— State Ball on Deck— Mock Trials- Charades — Pilgrim Solemnity — Slow Music — The Executive Officer De- livers an Opinion 38 CHAPTER Y. Summer in Mid- Atlantic — An Eccentric Moon — Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence — Tlie Mystery of "Ship Time" — The Denizens of the Deep — " Land- Hol'' — The First Landing on a Foreio-n Shore — Sensation among the Natives — Something about the Azores Islands- -Blucher's Disastrous Din- ner — The Happy Result 47 CHAPTER YI Solid Information — A Fossil Community — Curious Ways and Customs— Jesuit Humbuggery — Fantastic Pilgrimizing — Origin of the Russ Pavement — Squaring Accounts vrith the Fossils — At Sea Again 55 CHAPTER YII. A Tempest at Night — Spain and Africa on Exhibition — G-reeting a Majestic Stranger — The PiUars of Hercules — The Rock of Gibraltar — Tiresome Repetition — " The Queen's Chair " — Serenity Conquered — Curiosities of the Secret Caverns — Personnel of Gibraltar — Some Odd Characters — A Private Frolic in Africa — Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of lifej — Yanity Rebuked — Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco 62 CONTKNTS. CHAPTER VIII. PAOF The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco — Strange Siglits — A Cradle of An- tiquity — We become Wealthy — How they Rob tlie Mail in Africa — The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco 76 CHAPTER IX. A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril — How they Mended the Clock — Moorish Punish- ments for Crime — Marriage Customs — Looking Several ways (or Sunday — Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims — Reverence for Cats — Bliss of being a Consul-General 83 CHAPTER X. Fourth of July at Sea — Mediterranean Sunset — The " Oracle " is Delivered of an Opinion — Celebration Ceremonies — The Captain's Speech — France in Sight — The Ignorant Native — In Marseilles — Another Blunder — Lost in the Great City — Found Again — A Frenchy Scene 90 CHAPTER XL G-etting "Used to it " — No Soap — Bill of Fare, Table d'hote — "An American Sir!" — A Curious Discovery — The "Pilgrim" Bird — Strange Companion- ship — A Grave of the Living — A Long Captivity — Some of Dumas' ze- roes — Dungeon of the Famous " Iron Mask." 98 CHAPTKR XTL A Holiday Flight through France — Summer Garb of the Landscape — Abroad on the Great Plains — Peculiarities of French Cars — French Politeness — American Railway OfBcials — " Twenty Muutes to Dinner!" — Why there are no Accidents— The "Old Travellers"— Still on the Wing— Paris at Last — Frencli Order and Quiet — Place of the Bastile — Seeing the Sights — A Barbarous Atrocity — Absurd Bilhards 105 CHAPTER XIII. More Trouble — Monsieur Billfinger — Re-Christening the Frenchman — In the Clutches of a Paris Guide — Tlie International Exposition — Fine Military Review — Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey 118 CHAPTER XIV. The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame— Jean Sanspeur's Addition— Treas- ures and Sacred Relics — The Legend of the Cross— The Morgue— The Outrageous Can- Can — Blondin Aflame — The Louvre Palace — The Great Park — Showy Pageantry — Preservation of Noted Things 130 CHAPTER XV. French National Burying-Ground — Among the Great Dead— The Shrine of Disappointed Love — The Story of Abelard and Heloise — " English Spoken Here" — " American Drinks Compounded Here " — Imperial Honors to an American — The Over-estimated Grisette — Departure from Paris— A De- liberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women 139 CHAPTER XVL Versailles— Paradise Regained — A Wonderful Park— Paradise Lost— Napole- onic Strategy. 153 Contents, chapter xyii. PAGE War — The American Forces Victorious — "Home Again" — Italy in Sight — The " City of Palaces " — Beauty of the G-enoese Women — The " Stub- Hunters " — Among the Palaces — Gifted Guide — Church Magnificence — " Women not Admitted " — How the Genoese Live — Massive Architecture — A Scrap ^of Ancient History — Graves for 60,000 3 59 CHAPTER XYIII. Flying Through Italy — Marengo — First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral — Description of some of its Wonders — A Horror Carved in Stone — An Unpleasant Adventure — A Good Man — A Sermon from the Tomb — Tons of Gold and Silver — Some More Holy Relics — Solomon's Temple Rivalled 171 CHAPTER XIX. "Do Tou Wis zo Haut can be? " — La Scala — Petrarch and Laura — Lucrezia Borgia — Ingenious Frescoes — Ancient Roman Amphitheatre — A Clever Delusion — Distressing Billiards — The Chief Charm of European Life — An Itahan Bath — Wanted: Soap — Crippled French — Mutilated English — The Most Celebrated Painting in the World — Amateur Raptures — Uninspired Critics — Anecdote — A Wonderful Echo — A Kiss for a Franc 1S3 CHAPTER XX. Rural Italy by Rail — Fumigated, According to Law — The Sorrowing English- man — Night by the Lake of Como — The Famous Lake — Its Scenery — Como compared with Tahoe — Meeting a Shipmate 199 CHAPTER XXL The Pretty Lago di Lecco — A Carriage Drive in the Country — Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman — A Sleepy Land — Bloody Shrines — The Heart and Home of Priestcraft — A Thrilling Mediaeval Romance — The Birthplace of Harlequin — Approaching Venice . 207 CHAPTER XXIL Night in Venice — The '■ Gay Gondolier " — The Grand Fete by Moonlight — The Notable Sights of Venice — The Mother of the Republics Desolate 217 CHAPTER XXIII. The Famous Gondola — The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect — The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion — Snobs, at Home and Abroad — Sepulchres of the Great Dead — A Tilt at the " Old Masters " — A Contra- band Guide — The Conspiracy — Moving Again 228 CHAPTER XXIV. Down Through Italy by Rail — Idling in Florence — Dante and Galileo — An Ungrateful City — Dazzhng Generosity — Wonderful Mosaics — The Histori- cal Arno — Lost Again — Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready — The Leaning Tower of Pisa — The Ancient Duomo — The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung — An Enchanting Echo — A New Holy Sepulchre — A Relic of Antiquity — A Fallen Republic — At Leghorn — At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship — Our Vessel an Object of Grave Suspicion — Gen. Garibaldi Visited — Threats of Quarantine 244 Contents. CHAPTER XXV. PAGE The Works of Bankruptcy — Railway G-randeur — How to Fill an Empty Treasury — The Sumptuousness of Mother Church — Ecclesiastical Splen- dor — Magnificence and Misery — G-eneral Execration — More MagniScence — A Good Word for the Priests — Civita Vecchia the Dismal — Off for Rome 255 CHAPTER XXVI. The Modern Roman on His Travels — The Grandeur of St. Peter's — Holy Relics — Grand View from the Dome — The Holy Inquisition — Interesting Old Monkish Frauds — The Ruined CoHseum — The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime — Ancient Play-biU of a Coliseum Performance — A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Years Old 266 CHAPTER XXVII. " Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday " — The Man who Never Complained — An Exasperating Subject — Asinine Guides — The Roman Catacombs — The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs — The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart — The Legend of Ara Coeh 284 CHAPTER XXVIII. Picturesque Horrors — The Legend of Brother Thomas — Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed — A Festive Company of the Dead — The Great Vatican Museum — Artist Sins of Omission — fhe Rape of the Sabines — Papal Protection of Art — High Price of " Old Masters " — Improved Scripture — Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome — Scale of Honors Accorded Them — Fos- silizing — Away for Naples 29S CHAPTER XXIX. Naples — In Quarantine at Last — Annunciation — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius — A Two-Cent Community — The Black Side of Neapolitan Character — Monkish Miracles — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued — The Stranger and the Hackman — Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued 308 CHAPTER XXX. Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Beautiful View at Dawn — Less Beautiful View in the Back Streets — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Dwellings a Hundred Feet High — A Motley Procession — BiU of Fare for a Pedler's Breakfast — Princely Salaries — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — An Aver- age of Prices — The Wonderful " Blue Grotto " — Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples — The Poisoned "Grotto of the Dog" — A Petrified Sea of Lava — The Ascent Continued — The Summit Reached — Description of the Crater — Descent of Vesuvius 315 CHAPTER XXXL The Buried City of Pompeii — How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccu- pied for Eighteen Hundred Years — The Judgment Seat — Desolation — The Footprints of the Departed — "No Women Admitted'' — Theatres, Bake- shops, Schools, etc. — Skeletons Preserved by the Ashes and Cinders — The Brave Martyr to Duty — Rip Van Winkle — The Perishable Nature of Fame 327 Contents. CHAPTER XXXII. PAGE At Sea Once More — The Pilgrims all Well — Superb Stromboli — Sicily by Moonlight — ScyUa and Chaiybdis — The " Oracle " at Fault — Skirting the Isles of Greece — Ancient Athens — Blockaded by Quarantine and Relused Permission to Enter — Running the Blockade — A Bloodless Midnight Ad- venture — Turning Robbers from Necessity — Attempt to Carry the Acrop- olis by Storm — We Fail — Among the Glories of the Past — A World of Ruined Sculpture — A Fairy Vision — Famous Localities — Retreating in Good Order — Captured by the Guards — Travelling in Military State — Safe on Board Again 337 CHAPTER XXXIII. Modern Greece — Fallen Greatness — Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles — Footprints of History — The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account — Anchored Before Constantinople — Fantastic Fashions — The Ingenious Goose-Rancher — Marvellous Cripples — The Great Mosque — The Thousand and One Columns — The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul 354 CHAPTER XXXIV. Scarcity of Morals and Whiskey — Slave-Girl Market Report — Commercial Morality at a Discount — The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople — Ques- tionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey — Ingenious Italian Journalism — N"o More Turkish Lunches Desired — The Turkish Bath Fraud — The Narghileh Fraud — Jackplaned by a Native — The Turkish Coffee Fi "d '. 368 CHAPTER XXXV. Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea — " Far-Away Moses " — Melancholy Sebastopol — Hospitably Received in Russia — Pleasant Eng- lish People — Desperate Fighting — Relic Hunting — How Travellers Form "Cabinets",... 381 CHAPTER XXXVL Nine Thousand Miles East — Imitation American Town in Russia — Gratitude that Came Too Late — To Visit the Autocrat of All the Russias 387 CHAPTER XXXVIL Summer Home of Royalty — Practising for the Dread Ordeal — Committee on Imperial Address — Reception by the Emperor and Family — Dresses of the Imperial Party — Concentrated Power — Counting the Spoons — At the Grand Duke's— A Charming ViUa — A Knightly Figure — The Grand Duchess — A Grand Ducal Breakfast — Baker's Boy, the Famine-Breeder — Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud — Saved as by Fire — The Governor-Gen- eral's Visit to the Ship — Official "Style " — Aristocratic Visitors — "Mun- chausenizing " with Them — Closing Ceremonies 390 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Return to Constantinople — We Sail for Asia — The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors — Ancient Smyrna — The "Oriental Splendor" Fraud — The " Biblical Crown of Life " — Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans — Sociable Armenian Girls — A Sweet Reminiscence — "The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha ! " 403 Contents. CHA.PTER XXXIX. PAGE Smyrna's Lions — The Martyr Polycarp — The " Seven Churches " — Remains of the Six Smyrnas — Mj^sterions Oyster Mine — Oysters Seeking Scen- ery — A Millerite Tradition — A Railroad Out of its Spliere 412 CHAPTER XL. Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus — Ancient Ayassalook — The Villanous Donkey — A Fantastic Procession — Bygone Magnificence — Fragments of History — Tlie Legend of the Seven Sleepers 418 CHAPTER XLL Vandalism Prohibited — Angry Pilgrims — Approaching Holy Land ! — The "Shrill Xote of Preparation — Distress About Dragomans and Transporta- tion — The " Long Route" Adopted — In Syria — Something about Beirout -A Choice Specimen of a Greek ■' Ferguson " — Outfits — Hideous Horse- flesli— Pilgrim " Style "—What of Aladdin's Lamp ? 430 CHAPTER XLIL '•Jacksonville," in the Mountains of Lebanon — Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama — The Vanished City — The Peculiar Steed, "Jericho" — The Pilgrim's Progress — Bible Scenes — Mount Hermon, Joshua's Battle- Fields, etc. — The Tomb of ISToah — A Most Unfortunate People 438 CHAPTER XLIII. Patriarchal Customs — Magnificent Baalbec — Description of the Ruins — Scrib- bling Smiths and Joneses — Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law — The Revered Fountain of Baalam's Ass 445 CHAPTER XLIV. Extracts from Note-Book — Mahomet's Paradise and the Bible's — Beautiful Da- mascus, the Oldest City on Earth — Oriental Scenes within tlie Curious Old City — Damascus Street Car — The Story of St. Paul — The '"Street called Straight " — Mahomet's Tomb and St. George's — The Christian Massacre — Mohammedan Dread of Pollution — The House of Naaman — The Horrors of Leprosy 454 CHAPTER XLV. The Cholera by way of Variety — Hot — Another Outlandish Procession — Pen- and-ink Photograph of " Jonesborough," Syria — Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter — The Stateliest Ruin of All — Stepping over the Borders of Holy Land — Bathing iu the Sources of Jordan — More " Specimen "- Hunting — Ruins of Cesarea-Phihppi — " On This Rock Will I Build my Church " — The People the Disciples Knew — The Noble Steed " Baalbec " — Sentimental Horse Idolatry of the Arabs 465 CHAPTER XLVI. Dan — Bashan — ^Genessaret — A Notable Panorama — Smallness of Palestine — Scraps of History — Character of the Country — Bedoum Shepherds — Glimpses of the Hoary Past — Mr. Grimes's Bedouins — A Battle-Ground of Joshua — That Soldier's Manner of Fighting — Barak's Battle — The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things — Desolation 478 Contents. CHAPTER XL VII. FAOS Jack's Adventure — Joseph's Pit — The Story of Joseph — Joseph's Magnanim- ity and Esau's — The Sacred Lake of Genessaret — Enthusiasm of the Pil- grims — Why We did not Sail on Galilee — About Capernaum — Concerning the Saviour's Brothers and Sisters — Journeying toward Magdala 488 CHAPTER XLVIII. Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture — Public Reception of the Pilgrims — Mary Magdalen's House — Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants — The Sa- cred Sea of Galilee — Galilee by Night 503 CHAPTER TLIX. The Ancient Baths — Ye Apparition — A Distin^, nshed Panorama — The Last Battle of the Crusades — Tlie Story of the Lora '^K'erak — Mount Tabor — What one Sees from its Top — A Memory of a Wonderful Garden — The House of Deborah the Prophetess , 514 CHAPTER L. 'Toward Nazareth — Bitten By a Camel — Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth — Noted Grottoes in General — Joseph's Workshop — A Sacred IBowlder — The Fountain of the Virgin — Questionable Female Beauty — Literary Cu- riosities 525 CHAPTER LL The Boyhood of the Saviour — Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims — Home of the Witch of Endor — Nain — Profanation — A Popular Oriental Picture — Bibhcal Metaphors Becoming steadily More InteUigible — The Shunem Miracle — The "Free Son of The Desert" — Ancient Jezreel — Jehu's Achievements — Samaria and its Famous Siege 537 CHAPTER III. A Curious Remnant of the Past — Shechem — The Oldest "First Family " on Earth — The Oldest Manuscript Extant — The Genuine Tomb of Joseph — Jacob's Well — Shiloh — Camping witli the Arabs — Jacob's Ladder — More Desolation — Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, the Fountain of Beira — Impatience — Approaching Jerusalem — The Holy City in Sight — Noting its Prominent Features — Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls 551 CHAPTER LIIL '" The Joy of the Whole Earth " — Description of Jerusalem — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Stone of Unction — The Grave of Jesus — Graves of Nicodemus and Josepli of Arimathea — Places of the Apparition — The Finding of the Three Crosses — The Legend — Monkish Impostures — The Pillar of Flagellation— The Place of a Relic— Godfrey's Sword—" The Bonds of Christ " — " The Center of the Earth " — Place whence the Dust was takeu of which Adam was Made — Grave of Adam — The Martyred Soldier — The Copper Plate that was On the Cross — The Good St. Helena — Place of the Division of the Garments^St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief — The Late Emperor Maximilian's Contribution — Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns — Chapel of tJie Mocking — Tomb of Melchizedek — Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders — The Place of the Crucifixion 558 Contents. CHAPTER LIV. PAOB The "Sorrowful "Way " — The Legend of St. Yeronica's Haadkerchief — An Il- lustrious Stone — House of the Wandering Jew — The Tradition of the "Wanderer — Solomon's Temple — Mosque of Omar — Moslem Traditions — " Women not Admitted " — The Fate of a Gossip — Turkish Sacred Relics — Judgment Seat of David and Saul — G-enuine Precious Remains of Solomon's Temple — Surfeited with Sights — The Pool of Siloam — The Gar- den of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities 514 CHAPTEL LV. Rebellion in the Camp — Charms of Nomadic Life — Dismal Rumors — En Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea — Pilgrim Strategy — Bethany and the Dwell- ing of Lazarus — "Bedouins!" — Ancient Jericho — Misery — The Night March — The Dead Sea — An Idea of What a "Wilderness " in Palestine is — The Holy Hermits of Mars Saba — Good St. Saba — Women not Admit- ted — Buried from the World for all Time — Unselfish Catholic Benevolence — Gazelles — The Plain of the Shepherds — Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity — Its Hundred Holy Places — The Fa- mous " Milk " Grotto — Tradition — Return to Jerusalem — Exhausted. . . . 586 CHAPTER LVI. Departure from Jerusalem — Samson — The Plain of Sharon — Arrival at Joppa — House of Simon the Tanner — The Long Pilgrimage Ended — Character of Palestine Scenery — The Curse 604 CHAPTER LYIL The Happiness of being at Sea once more — " Home " as it is in a Pleasure- Ship — "Shaking Hands" with the Vessel — Jack in Costume — His Fa- ther's Parting Advice — Approaching Egypt — Ashore in Alexandria — A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys — Invasion of the Lost Tribes of America — End of the Celebrated "Jaffa Colony" — Scenes in Grand Cai- ro — Shepheard's Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel — Pre- paring for the Pyramids 609 CHAPTER LVIIL "Recherche " Donkeys — A Wild Ride — Specimens of Egyptian Modesty — Mo- ses in the Bulrushes — Place where the Holy Family Sojourned — Distant view of the Pyramids — A Nearer View — The Ascent — Superb View from the top of the Pyramid — "Backsheesh! Backsheesh! " — An Arab Exploit — In the Bowels of the Pyramid — Strategy — Reminiscence of "Holiday's Hill" — Boyish Exploit — The Majestic Sphynx — Things the Author will not Tell— Grand Old Egypt. . , 618 CHAPTER LIX. Going Home — A Demoralized Note-Book — A Boy's Diary — Mere Mention of Old Spain — Departure from Cadiz — A Deserved Rebuke — The Beautiful Madeiras — Tabooed — In the Delightful Bermudas — An Enghsh Welcome — Good-by to "Our Friends the Bermudians " — Packing Trunks for Home — Our First Accident — The Long Cruise Drawing to a Close — At Home Amen 635 CHAPTER LX. Thankless Devotion — A Newspaper Valedictory — Conclusion. , 638 OHAPTEE I. FOR montlis the great Pleasure Excursion to Europe and the Holy Land was chatted about in the newspapers every where in America, and discussed at countless firesides. It was a novelty in the way of Excursions — its like had not been thought of before, and it compelled that interest which attractive novelties always command. It was to be a picnic on a gigantic scale. The participants in it, instead of freight- ing an ungainly steam ferry-boat with youth and beauty and pies and doughnuts, and paddling up some obscure creek to disembark upon a grassy lawn and wear themselves out with a long summer day's laborious frolicking under the impression that it was fun, were to sail away in a great steamship with flags flying and cannon pealing, and take a royal holiday beyond the broad ocean, in many a strange clime and in many a land renowned in history! They were to sail for months over the breezy Atlantic and the sunny Mediterranean ; they were to scamper about the decks by day, filling the ship with shouts and laughter — or read novels and poetry in the shade of the smoke-stacks, or watch for the jelly-fish and the nau- tilus, over the side, and the shark, the whale, and other strange monsters of the deep ; and at night they were to dance in the open air, on the upper deck, in the midst of a ball-room that stretched from horizon to horizon, and was domed by the bend- ing heavens and lighted by no meaner lamps than the stars and the magnificent moon — dance, and promenade, and smoke, and sing, and make love, and search the skies for con- stellations that never associate with the " Big Dipper " they 20 A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. were so tired of; and tliey were to see the ships of twenty navies — the customs and costumes of twenty curious peoples — the great cities of half a world — they were to hob-nob with nobility and hold friendly converse with kings and princes, Grand Moguls, and the anointed lords of mighty empires ! It was a brave conception ; it was the offspring of a most ingenious brain. It was well advertised, but it hardly needed it : the bold originality, the extraordinary character, the seduc- tive nature, and the vastness of the enterprise provoked com- ment every where and advertised it in every household in the land. Who could read the programme of the excursion with- out longing to make one of the party ? I will insert it here. It is ahnost as good as a map. As a text for this book, noth- ing could be better : EXCURSION TO THE HOLT LAND, EGYPT, THE CRIMEA, GREECE, AND INTERMEDIATE POINTS OF INTEREST. Brooklyn, February 1st, 1867. The undersigned will make an excursion as above during the coming season, and begs to submit to you the follow nig programme: A first-class steamer, to be under his own command, and capable of accommo- dating at least one hundred and fifty cabin passengers, will be selected, in which will be taken a select company, numbering not more than three-fourths of the ship's capacity. There is good reason to beheve that this company can be easily made up in this immediate vicinity, of mutual friends and acquaintances. The steamer will be provided with every necessary comfort, including library and musical instruments. An experienced physician will be on board. Leaving New Tork about June 1st, a middle and pleasant route will be taken across the Atlantic, and passing through the group of Azores, St. Michael will be reached in about ten days. A day or two will be spent here, enjoying the fruit and wild scenery of these islands, and the voyage continued, and Gibraltar reached in three or four days. A day or two will be spent here in looking over the wonderful subterraneous fortifications, permission to visit these galleries being readily obtained. From Gibraltr.r, running along the coasts of Spain and France, Marseilles will be reached in three days. Here ample time will be given not only to look over the city, which was founded six hundied years before the Christian era, and its artificial port, the finest of the kind in the Mediterranean, but to visit Paris during the Great Ex- ^iibition: and the beautiful city of Lyons, lying intermediate, from the heights of A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. 21 /?hich, on a clear day, Mont Blanc and the Alps can be distinctly seen. Passen- gers who may wish to extend the time at Paris can do so, and, passing down through Switzerland, rejoin the steamer at Genoa. From Marseilles to Genoa is a run of one night. The excursionists will have an opportunity to look over this, the "magnificent city of palaces," and visit the birth- place of Columbus, twelve miles off, over a beautiful road built by Napoleon I. From this point, excursions may be made to Milan, Lakes Como and Maggiore, or to Milan, Verona, (famous for its extraordinary fortifications,) Padua, and Venice. Or, if passengers desire to visit Parma (famous for Correggio's frescoes,) and Bo- logna, they can by rail go on to Florence, and rejoin the steamer at Leghorn, thus spending about three weeks amid the cities most famous for art in Italy. From Genoa the run to Leghorn will be made along the coast in one night, and time appropriated to this pointin which to visit Florence, its palaces and galleries; Pisa, its Cathedral and "Leaning Tower," and Lucca and its baths, and Roman amphitheatre ; Florence, the most remote, being distant by rail about sixty miles. From Leghorn to Naples, (calling at Civita Vecchia to land any who may prefer to go to Home from that point,) the distance will be made in about thirty-six hours; the route will lay along the coast of Italy, close by Caprera, Elba, and Corsica. Arrangements have been made to take on board at Leghorn a pilot for Caprera, and, if practicable, a call will be made there to visit the home of Garibaldi. Rome, [by rail] Herculaneum, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Virgil's tomb, and possibly, the ruins of Psestum, can be visited, as well as the beautiful surroundings of Naples and its charming bay. The next point of interest will be Palermo, the most beautiful city of Sicily, which will be reached in one night from Naples. A day will be spent here, and leaving in the evening, the course will be taken towards Athens. Skirting along the north coast of Sicily, passing through the group of ^olian Isles, in sight of Stromboli and Vulcania, both active volcanoes, through the Straits of Messina, with "Scylla" on the one hand and "Charybdis" on the other, along the east' coast of Sicily, and in sight of Mount -(Etna, along the south coast of Italy, the west and south coast of Greece, in sight of ancient Crete, up Athens Gulf, and into the Piraeus, Athens will be reached in two and a half or three days. After tarrying here awhile, the Bay of Salamis will be crossed, and a day given to Cor- inth, whence the voyage will be continued to Constantinople, passing on the way through the Grecian Archipelago, the Dardanelles, the Sea of Marmora, and the mouth of the Golden Horn, and arriving in about forty-eight hours from Athens. After leaving Constantinople, the way will be taken out through the beautiful Bosphorus, across the Black Sea to Sebastopol and Balaklava, a run of about twenty-four hours. Here it is proposed to remain two days, visiting the harboi-s, fortifications, and battle-fields of the Crimea ; thence back through the Bosphorus, touching at Constantinople to take in any who may have preferred to remain there; down through the Sea of Marmora and the Dardanelles, along the coasts of ancient Troy and Lydia in Asia, to Smyrna, which will be reached in two or two and a half days from Constantinople. A sufficient stay will be made here to give opportunity of visiting Ephesus, fifty miles distant by rail. From Smyrna towards the Holy Land the course will lay through the Grecian 22 A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. Archipelago, close by the Isle of Patmos, along the coast of Asia, ancient Pam- phylia, and the Isle of Cyprus. Beirout will be reached in three days. At Beirout time will be given to visit Damascus; after which the steamer wiU proceed to Joppa. From Joppa, Jerusalem, the River Jordan, the Sea of Tiberias, Nazareth, Beth- any, Bethlehem, and other points of interest in the Holy Land can be visited, and here those who may have preferred to make the journey from Bierout through the country, passing through Damascus, Galilee, Capernaum, Samaria, and by the River Jordan and Sea of Tiberias, can rejoin the steamer. Leaving Joppa, the next point of interest to visit will be Alexandria, which will be reached in twenty-four hours. The ruins of Caesar's Pa'lace, Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Catacombs, and ruins of ancient Alexandria, will be found worth the visit. The journey to Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles by rail, can be made m a few hour's, and from which can be visited the site of ancient Memphis, Joseph's Granaries, and the Pyramids. From Alexandria the route will be taken homeward, calling at Malta, Cagliari (in Sardinia,) and Parma (in Majorca.) all magnificent harbors, with charming scenery, and abounding in fruits. A day or two will be spent at each place, and leaving Parma in the evening, Valencia in Spain will be reached the next morning. A few days will be spent in this, the finest city of Spain. From Valencia, the homeward course will be continued, skirting along the coast of Spain. Alicant, Carthagena, Palos, and Malaga, will be passed but a mile or two distant, and Gibraltar reached in about twenty-four hours. A stay of one day will be made here, and the voyage continued to Madeira, which will be reached in about three days. Captain Marrj^att writes: "I do not know a spot on the globe which so much astonishes and delights upon first arrival as Madeira." A stay of one or two days will be made here, which, if time per- mits, may be extended, and passing on through the islands, and probably in sight of the Peak of Teneriffe, a southern track will be taken, and the Atlantic crossed within the latitudes of the Northeast trade winds, where mild and pleasant weather, and a smooth sea, can always be expected. A call will be made at Bermuda, which lies directly in this route homeward, and will be reached in about ten days from Madeira, and after spending a short time with our friends the Bermudians, the final departure will be made for home, which will be reached in about three days. Alreadjr, applications have been received from parties in Europe wishing to join the Excursion there. The ship will at all times be a home, where the excursionists, if sick, will be sur- rounded by kind friends, and have all possible comfort and sympathy. Should contagious sickness exist in anj^ of the ports named in the programme, such ports will be passed, and others of interest substituted. The price of passage is fixed at $1,250, currency, for each adult passenger. Choice of rooms and of seats at the tables apportioned in the order in which pas- sages are engaged, and no passage considered engaged until ten per cent, of the passage money is deposited with the treasurer. A SEDUCTIVE PROGRAMME. 23 Passengers can remain on board of the steamer, at all ports, if they desire, with- out additional expense, and all boating at the expense of the ship. All passages must be paid for wlien taken, in order that the most perfect arrangements be made for starting at the appointed time. Applications for passage must be approved by the committee before tickets are issued, and can be made to the undersigned. Articles of interest or curiosity, procured by the passengers during the voyage, may be brought home in the steamer free of charge. Five dollars per day, in gold, it is believed, will be a fair calculation to make for all traveling expenses on shore, and at the various points where passengers may wish to leave the steamer for days at a time. The trip can be extended, and the route changed, by unanimous vote of the passengers. CHAS. C. DUNCAN, 117 Wall Street, New York, R. R. Gr******, Treasurer. Committee qs Applications. J. T. H*****, Esq., R. R. G***** Esq., 0. C. DUNCAN. Committee on selecting Steamer. Capt. "W. W. S****. Surveyor for Board of Underivriters. C. W. c*******, Consulting Engineer for U. S. and Canada. J. T. H***** Esq. C. C. DUNCAN. P. S. — The very beautiful and substantial side wheel steamship " Quaker City" has been chartered for the occasion, and will leave New York, June 8th. Letters have been issued by the government commending the party to courtesies abroad. What was there lacking about that programme, to make it perfectly irresistible ? IS^othing, that any finite mind could •discover. Paris, England, Scotland, Switzerland, Italy — Oaribaldi ! The Grecian archipelago ! Yesuvius ! Constanti- nople ! Smyrna ! The Holy Land ! Egypt and " our friends the Eermudians !" People in Europe desiring to join the Ex- cursion — contagious sickness to be avoided — boating at the expense of the ship — physician on board — the circuit of the globe to be made if the passengers unanimously desired it — the company to be rigidly selected by a pitiless " Committee on Applications" — the vessel to be as rigidly selected by as pitiless a " Committee on Selecting Steamer." Human- 24 ENROLLED AMONG THE "SELECT." nature could not withstand these bewildering temptations. I hurried to the Treasurer's office and deposited my ten per cent. I rejoiced to know that a few vacant state-rooms were still left. I did avoid a critical personal examination into my character, by that bowelless committee, but I referred to all the people of high standing I could think of in the community who would be least likely to know any thing about me. Shortly a supplementary programme was issued which set forth that the Plymouth Collection of Hymns would be used on board the ship. I then paid the balance of my passage money. I was provided with a receipt, and duly and officially ac- cepted as an excursionist. There was happiness in that, but it was tame compared to the novelty of being " select." This supplementary programme also instructed the excur- sionists to provide themselves with light musical instruments for amusement in the ship; with saddles for Syrian travel j green spectacles and umbrellas; veils for Egypt; and substan- idal clothing to use in rough pilgrimizing in the Holy Land. Furthermore; it was suggested that although the ship's library would alford a fair amount of reading matter, it would still be well if each passenger would provide himself with a few guide-books, a Bible and some standard works of travel. A list was appended, which consisted chiefly of books relating to the Holy Land, since the Holy Land was part of the excursion and seemed to be its main feature. Rev. Henry Ward Beecher was to have accompanied the expedition, but urgent duties obliged him to give up the idea. There were other passengers who could have been spared bet-, ter, and would have been spared more willingly. Lieut. Gen. Sherman was to have been of the party, also, but the Indian war compelled his presence on the plains. A popular actress had entered her name on the ship's books, but something inter- fered, and she couldn't go. The " Drummer Boy of the Poto- mac" deserted, and lo, we had never a celebrity left ! However, we were to have a " battery of guns " from the !N"avy Department, (as per advertisement,) to be used in ENROLLED AMONG THE "SELECT." 25 answering royal salutes ; and the document furnished by the Secretary of the l^avy, which was to make " Gen. Sherman and party " welcome guests in the courts and camps of the old world, was still left to us, though both document and bat- tery, I think, were shorn of somewhat of their original august proportions. However, had not we the seductive programme, still, with its Paris, its Constantinople, Smyrna, Jerusalem, Jericho, and " our feiends the Bermudians ?" What did we care? CKAPTEE II. OCCASIONALLY, during the following montli, I dropped in at 117 Wall-street to inquire how the repairing and refurnishing of the vessel was coming on ; how additions to the passenger list were averaging ; how many people the com- mittee were decreeing not " select," every day, and banishing in sorrow and tribulation. I was glad to know that we were to have a little printing-press on board and issue a daily newspaper of our own. I was glad to learn that our piano, our parlor organ and our melodeon were to be the best instru- ments of the kind that could be had in the market. I was proud to observe that among our excursionists were three min- isters of the gospel, eight doctors, sixteen or eighteen ladies, several military and naval chieftains with sounding titles, an ample crop of " Professors " of various kinds, and a gentle- man who had " Commissioner of the United States of America TO Europe, Asia, and Africa" thundering after his name in one awful blast ! I had carefully prepared myself to take rather a back seat in that ship, because of the uncommonly select material that would alone be permitted to pass through the camel's eye of that committee on credentials ; I had schooled myself to expect an imposing array of military and naval heroes, and to have to set that back seat still further back in consequence of it, may be ; but I state frankly that I was all unprepared for this crusher. I fell under that titular avalanche a torn and blighted thing. I said that if that potentate must go over in our ship, why, I supposed he must — but that to my thinking, when the United AN OFFICIAL COLOSSUS. 27 States considered it necessary to send a dignitary of tliat ton- nage across the ocean, it would be in better taste, and safer, to take liim apart and cart him over in sections, in several ships. Ah, if I had only known, then, that he was only a common mortal, and that his mission had nothing more overpowering about it than the collecting of seeds, and uncommon yams and extraordinary cabbages and peculiar bullfrogs for that poor, useless, innocent, mildewed old fossil, the Smithsonian Insti- tute, I would have felt so much relieved. During that memorable month I basked in the happiness of being for once in my life drifting with the tide of a great popular movement. Every body was going to Europe — I, too, was going to Europe. Every body was going to the famous Paris Exposition — I, too, was going to the Paris Exposition. The steamship lines were carrying Americans out of the vari- ous ports of the country at the rate of four or five thousand a week, in the aggregate. If I met a dozen individuals, during that month, who were not going to Europe shortly, I have no distinct remembrance of it now. I walked about the city a good deal with a young Mr. Blucher, who was booked for the excursion. He was confiding, good-natured, unsophisticated, companionable ; but he was not a man to set the river on fire. He had the most extraordinary notions about this European exodus, and came at last to consider the whole nation as pack- ing up for emigration to France. We stepped into a store in Broadway, one day, where he bought a handkerchief, and when the man could not make change, Mr. B. said : " iN'ever mind, I'll hand it to you in Paris." " But I am not going to Paris." " How is — what did I understand you to say ?" " I said I am not going to Paris." " ISTot going to Paris / ISTot g — well then, where in the na- tion are you going to ?" " Kowhere at all." . " ITot any where whatsoever ? — not any place on earth but this ?" 28 MR. BLUCHER'S opinion, " ITot any place at all but just this — stay here all summer.'' My comrade took his purchase and walked out of the store ■without a word — walked out with an injured look upon his countenance. Up the street apiece he broke silence and said impressively: " It was a lie — that is my opinion of it !" "i'LL pay you in FAKIS." In the fullness of time the ship was ready to receive her pas- sengers. I was introduced to the young gentleman who was to be my room mate, and found him to be intelligent, cheerful of spirit, unselfish, full of generous impulses, patient, consid- erate, and wonderfully good-natured. Not any passenger that sailed in the Quaker City will withhold his indorsement of what I have just said. We selected a state-room forward of SEA-GOING LODGING'S. 29 the wheel, on the starboard side, " below decks." It had two berths in it, a dismal dead-light, a sink with a wash-bowl in it, and a long, sumptuously cushioned locker, which was to do service as a sofa — partly, and partly as a hiding-place for our things. I^ot withstanding all this furniture, there was still room to turn around in, but not to swing a cat in, at least with entire security to the cat. However, the room was large, for a ship's state-room, and was in every way satisfactory. The vessel was appointed to sail on a certain Saturday early in June. A little after noon, on that distinguished Saturday, I reached the ship and went on board. All was bustle and confusion. [I have seen that remark before, somewhere.] The pier was ■crowded with carriages and men ; passengers were arriving and hurrying on board ; the vessel's decks were encumbered with trunks and valises ; groups of excursionists, arrayed in unattractive traveling costumes, were moping about in a driz- zling rain and looking as droopy and woe-begone as so many inolting chickens. The gallant flag was up, but it was under the spell, too, and hung limp and disheartened by the mast. Altogether, it was the bluest, bluest spectacle ! It was a pleas- ure excursion — there was no gainsaying that, because the programme said so — it was so nominated in the bond — but it surely hadn't the general aspect of one. Finally, above the banging, and rumbling, and shouting and hissing of steam, rang the order to " cast oiF!" — a sudden rush to the gangways — a scampering ashore of visitors — a revolu- tion of the wheels, and we were off — the pic-nic was begun ! Two very mild cheers went up from the dripping crowd on the pier ; we answered them gently from the slippery decks ; the' "-fiag made an effort to wave, and failed ; the " battery of guns " spake not — the ammunition was out. We steamed down to the foot of the harbor and came to an- chor. It was still raining. And not only raining, but storming. "Outside" we could see, ourselves, that there was a tre- mendous sea on. We must lie still, in the calm harbor, till the storm should abate. Our passengers hailed from fifteen 30 CAST OFF, THE START. States ; only a few of them had ever been to sea before ; mani- festly it would not do to pit them against a full-blown tempest until they had got their sea-legs on. Toward evening the two steam-tugs that had accompanied us with a rollicking cham- pagne-party of young I^ew Yorkers on board who wished to bid farewell to one of our number in due and ancient form, departed, and we were alone on the deep. On deep five fathoms, and anchored fast to the bottom. And out in the solemn rain, at that. This was pleasuring with a ven- geance. It was an appropriate relief when the gong sounded for prayer meeting. The first Saturday night of any other j)lea8- ure excursion might have been devoted to whist and dan- cing ; but I submit it to the unprejudiced mind if it would have been in good taste for us to engage in such frivolities, considering what we had gone through and the frame of mind "OAST OFF." 31 we were in. "We would have shone at a wake, but not at any thing more festive. However, there is always a cheering influence about the sea ; and in my berth, that night, rocked by the measured swell of the waves, and lulled by the murmur of the distant surf, I soon passed tranquilly out of all consciousness of the dreary experiences of the day and damaging premonitions of the fature. CHAPTER III. ALL day Sunday at anchor. The storm had gone down a great deal, but the sea had not. It was still piling its frothy hills high in air " outside," as we could plainly see with the glasses. We could not properly begin a pleasure excur- sion on Sunday ; we could not offer untried stomachs to so pitiless a sea as that. We must lie still till Monday. And we did. But we had repetitions of church and prayer-meet- ings ; and so, of course, we were just as eligibly situated as we could have been any where. I was up early that Sabbath morning, and was early to breakfast. I felt a perfectly natural desire to have a good, long, unprejudiced look at the passengers, at a time when they should be free from self-consciousness — which is at breakfast, when such a moment occurs in the lives of human beings at all. I was greatly surprised to see so many elderly people — I might almost say, so many venerable people. A glance at the long lines of heads was apt to make one think it was all gray. But it was not. There was a tolerably fair sprinkling of young folks, and another fair sprinkling of gentlemen and ladies who were non-committal as to age, being neither actu- ally old or absolutely young. The next morning, we weighed anchor and went to sea. It was a great happiness to get away, after this dragging, dispiriting delay. I thought there never was such gladness in the air before, such brightness in the sun, such beauty in the UNDER WAY "for GOOD." 33 sea. I was satisfied with the picnic, then, and with all its belongings. All my mahcious instincts were dead within me ; and as America faded out of sight, I think a spirit of charity rose up in their place that was as boundless, for the time being, as the broad ocean that was heaving its billows about us. I wished to express my feelings — I wished to lift up my voice and sing ; but I did not know any thing to sing, and so I was obliged to give up the idea. It was no loss to the ship though, perhaps. It was breezy and pleasant, but the sea was still very rough. One could not promenade without risking his neck ; at one moment the bowsprit was taking a deadly aim at the sun in mid-heaven, and at the next it was trying to harpoon a shark in the bottom of the ocean. What a weird sensation it is to feel the stern of a ship sinking swiftly from under you and see the bow climbing high away among the clouds ! One's safest -course, that day, was to clasp a railing and hang on ; walking was too precarious a pastime. By some happy fortune I was not seasick. — That was a "thing to be proud of. I had not always escaped before. If there is one thing in the world that will make a man pecu- liarly and insufferably self-conceited, it is to have his stomach btehave itself, the first day at sea, when nearly all his comrades are seasick. Soon, a venerable fossil, shawled to the chin and bandaged like a mummy, appeared at the door of the after •deck-house, and the next lurch of the ship shot him into my arms. I said : " Good-morning, Sir. It is a fine day." He put his hand on his stomach and said, " OA, my !" and then staggered away and fell over the coop of a sky- light. Presently another old gentleman was projected from the •same door, with great violence. I said : " Calm yourself, Sir — There is no hurry. It is a fine day, Sir." He, also, put his hand on his stomach and said " Oh, my !'* and reeled away. 3 34 TRIBULATION AMONG THE PATRIARCHS. In a little while another veteran was discharged abruptly from the same door, clawing at the air for a saving support, I said : " Good-morning, Sir. It is a fine day for pleasuring. You were about to say — " "0/i, my!" I thought so. I anticipated him, any how. I staid there and was bombarded with old gentlemen for an hour perhaps ; and all I got out of any of them was " Oh, my!" I went away, then, in a thoughtful mood. I said, this is a good pleasure excursion. I like it. The passengers are not garrulous, but still they are sociable. I like those old people, TRANSGRESSING THE LAWS. 85 but somehow they all seem to have the " Oh, my " rather bad. I knew what was the matter with them. They were sea- sick. And I was glad of it. We all like to see people sea- sick when we are not, ourselves. Playing whist by the cabin lamps when it is storming outside, is pleasant ; walking the quarter-deck in the moonlight, is pleasant ; smoking in the breezy foretop is pleasant, when one is not afraid to go up there ; but these are all feeble and commonplace compared with the joy of seeing people suffering the miseries of seasickness. I picked up a good deal of information during the after- noon. At one time I was climbing up the quarter-deck when the vessel's stern was in the sky ; I was smoking a cigar and feeling passably comfortable. Somebody ejaculated : " Come, now, that won't answer. Read the sign up there — ■ !No SMOKESTG ABAFT THE WHEEL !" It was Capt. Duncan, chief of the expedition. I went for- ward, of course. I saw a long spy-glass lying on a desk in one of the upper-deck state-rooms back of the pilot-house, and reached after it — there was a ship in the distance : " Ah, ah — ^hands off ! Come out of that !" I came out of that. I said to a deck-sweep — but in a low voice : " Who is that overgrown pirate with the whiskers and the discordant voice ?" " It's Capt. Bursley — executive officer — sailing-master." I loitered about awhile, and then, for want of something better to do, fell to carving a railing with my knife. Some-* body said, in an insinuating, admonitory voice : "JSTow say — my friend — don't you know any better than to be whittling the ship all to pieces that way ? You ought to know better than that." I went back and found the deck-sweep °. " Who is that smooth-faced animated outrage yonder in the fine clothes ?" 'That's Capt. L****, the owner of the ship — he's one of the main bosses." 36 TRANSGRESSING THE LAWS. In the course of time I brought up on the starboard side of the pilot-house, and found a sextant lying on a bench. ]^ow, I said, they " take the sun " through this thing ; I should think I might see that vessel through it, I had hardly got it to my eye when some one touched me on the shoulder and said, deprecatingly : " I'll have to get you to give that to me. Sir. If there's any THE OLD PIRATE. thing you'd like to know about taking the sun, I'd as soon tell you as not — but I don't like to trust any body with that instrument. If you want any figuring done — -^ye- aye. Sir !" He was gone, to answer a call from the other side. J sought the deck-sweep : " Who is that spider-legged gorilla yonder with the sanctL monious countenance?" "It's Capt. Jones, Sir — the chief mate." TRANSGRESSING THE LAWS. 37 " "Well. This goes clear away ahead of any thing I ever heard of before. Do you — now I ask you as a man and a brother — do you think I could venture to throw a rock here in any given direction without hitting a captain of this ship ?" " Well, Sir, I don't know — I think likely you'd fetch the captain of the watch, may be, because he's a-standing right yonder in the way." I went below — meditating, and a little down-hearted. I thought, if five cooks can spoil a broth, what may not five cap- tains do with a pleasure excursion. CHAPTEE lY. WE plowed along bravely for a week or more, and with- out any conflict of jurisdiction among the captains worth mentioning. The passengers soon learned to accommo- date themselves to their new circumstances, and life in the ship became nearly as systematically monotonous as the routine of a barrack. I do not mean that it was dull, for it was not entirely so by any means — but there was a good deal of sameness about it. As is always the fashion at sea, the passengers shortly began to pick up sailor terms — a «ign that they were beginning to feel at home. Half-past six was no longer half-past six to these pilgrims from I^ew England, the South, and the Mississippi Yalley, it was " seven bells ;" eight, twelve and four o'clock were " eight bells ;" the captain did not take the longitude at nine o'clock, but at " two bells." They spoke glibly of the " after cabin," the " for'rard cabin,'* " port and starboard " and the " fo'castle." At seven bells the first gong rang ; at eight there was break- fast, for such as were not too seasick to eat it. After that all the well people walked arm-in-arm up and down the long promenade deck, enjoying the fine summer mornings, and the seasick ones crawled out and propped themselves up in the lee of the paddle-boxes and ate their dismal tea and toast, and looked wretched. From eleven o'clock until luncheon, and from luncheon until dinner at six in the evening, the employ- ments and amusements were various. Some reading was done ; and much smoking and sewing, though not by the same parties ; there were the monsters of the deep to be looked after PILGRIM LIFE AT SEA. 39 and wondered at ; strange ships liad to be scrutinized througli opera-glasses, and sage decisions arrived at concerning them ; and more than that, every body took a personal interest in see- ing that the flag was run up and politely dipped three times in response to the salutes of those strangers ; in the smoking- room there were always parties of gentlemen playing euchre, ■draughts and dominoes, especially dominoes, that delightfully harmless game ; and down on the main deck, " for'rard " — for'rard of the chicken-coops and the cattle — we had what was