F 2223 .S37 Copy 1 Carnegie Endowment for International Peace DIVISION OF INTERCOURSE AND EDUCATION Publication No. 9 FORMER SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 1915 BY OTTO SCHOENRICH PUBLISHED BY THE ENDOWMENT WASHINGTON, D. C. 1915 kwgnph PUBLICATIONS OF THE CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE fVcar Book for 1911; Year Book for 1912; Year Book for 1913-1914; Year Book for 1915. Division of Intercourse and Education MiPORT ON OBSERVATIONS MADE in China and Japan in 1912. By Dr. Charles W. Eliot. vtion'al Progress in 1913. By Professor Dr. WlLHElM FaSZKOWSKI. toNAi Exi with Japan. By Dr. Hamilton W. Maiue. of the i mission to inquire into the .lkan Wars. Yltural Relations Between the United the Other Republics of America. By Dr. Ha \rd. By T. Miyac rn our Latin American Neighbors: ^English Edition.] . By ish, Portuguese and French. > Trip to South America. By Otto ch. Division of Economics and History k in the Near East. By a Diflomatist. Published by the England. Price $4.15. . LL.D. Division of International Law RTES S OF THE I' "he Report nber 7. IS ro THE 4 The I (I) for thi Pac Carnegie Endowment for International Peace DIVISION OF INTERCOURSE AND EDUCATION Publication No. 9 FORMER SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 1915 BY OTTO SCHOENRICH PUBLISHED BY THE ENDOWMENT WASHINGTON, D. C. 1915 - ^2££ 3 By transfer FEB 4 1916 PREFACE It is a satisfaction to be able to make public the following outline of the visit made to South American countries by the Hon. Theodore E. Burton, lately United States Senator from Ohio, during the spring and early summer of 1915. Mr. Burton's trip, following so closely upon that of Mr. Robert Bacon, has plainly done much to extend and develop that sympathy between the various American Republics as well as that more complete understanding between them which is so marked a feature of the history of the past few years. The people of the two American continents are being made increasingly conscious of the fact that they share a common obligation and a common oppor- tunity toward the maintenance and perfection of democratic institu- tions. Despite great variance in population, in natural resources, in area, and in climate, the South American Republics have a large com- mon fund of principles and of ideals. It is becoming that no effort should be spared to emphasize this fact and to make it so plain that he who runs may read. Toward the accomplishment of this end no agency is likely to be more effective than frequent international visits on the part of gen- uinely representative men. To promote and to develop this form of activity is one of the chief functions of the Division of Intercourse and Education. Nicholas Murray Butler, Acting Director. November 10, 1915. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/formersenatorburOOscho FORMER SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA Washington, August 16, igi 5. Dr. Nicholas Murray Butler, Acting Director, Division of Intercourse and Education. Sir: To my regret I find myself unable to comply with the suggestion to prepare a comprehensive report of the trip of Senator Theodore E. Burton to South America. Not anticipating that such a report would be desired, I made no notes with that end in view, and at the conclusion of the trip turned over to Senator Burton the documents, clippings, etc., which had been accumulated on the way. I am, therefore, obliged to confine myself to a brief and general narrative, which I take pleasure in submitting. The trip embraced the capitals of every country of South America except Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador. The party consisted of Senator Theodore E. Burton, Mr. Robert F. Wilson, who is the Wash- ington representative of The Cleveland Leader, and myself. We left New York March 20 and pursued the following itinerary : Colon Juliaca Montevideo Panama Cuzco Parana and Paita Lake Titicaca Paraguay Rivers Salaverry La Paz Asuncion Trujillo Arica Uruguayana Callao Valparaiso Sao Paulo Lima Santiago de Chile Rio de Janeiro Mollendo Mendoza Bahia Arequipa Buenos Aires New York. We arrived in New York June 25. In every one of the countries visited Senator Burton met the Presi- dent and principal men, as well as many Governors of States, and other local authorities of places where we stopped. He was everywhere shown special attention. A banquet given him by the Government of Peru was extraordinary in its appointments. The Governments of Bolivia and Paraguay were especially pleased by his visit; for few travelers brave the discomforts and dangers of a journey to the Bo- I CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE livian plateau, while Paraguay is even further off the beaten track. Senator Burton made an address before the Paraguayan Senate, and the Government of that country gave him a luncheon on one of their gunboats. In his conversations with public men and other distinguished citi- zens, Senator Burton advocated closer intellectual relations between the United States and the countries of South America, and better under- standing, more intercourse and increased commerce, as well as friendly cooperation for the progress of the world. His sentiments were heartily reciprocated. I was assured by diplomatic and consular offi- cers of the United States that his visit was invaluable in promoting better relations, for they immediately noticed an increase of cordiality on the part of the authorities. Senator Burton's pleasant manner and prudent words, indicating his kindly disposition and deep learning, could not fail to make a strong impression. Interviews given to the newspapers along the route, especially at Buenos Aires, undoubtedly exerted a good influence. The Senator delivered addresses before schools at several places, such as La Paz and Santiago, and before assemblies of our own citizens in Buenos Aires, Montevideo and Rio de Janeiro, giving them encouragement and good advice. At the same time he made an exhaustive study of social, economic and political conditions in the various countries. Among the matters specially recommended by Senator Burton were participation in the Pan American Medical Congress to be held in San Francisco, in June, 1915, participation in the Pan American Scientific Congress to be opened in Washington in December, 1915, and a more general and concerted development of international law. With refer- ence to the Medical Congress, something was accomplished, but much less than the Senator had desired, as the time for its sessions was nearly at hand. Unfortunately, too short a notice seems to have been given of this Congress, and no attempt appears to have been made to circulate any kind of a program ; the meagre extent to which the United States participated in the Sixth Pan American Medical Con- gress in Lima, in 1913, was also not calculated to inspire enthusiasm. The recommendations made with reference to the Pan American Scien- tific Congress met with a more general response. The pamphlets given me. with the preliminary program of the Scientific Congress, were distributed and proved very opportune. Too little is known about this Congress in South America, and it is advisable that every effort be made to bring it to the attention of the leading men and newspapers. Senator Burton also strongly indorsed the organization of societies of international conciliation, and national societies of international law. SENATOR BURTON S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 3 to be affiliated with the American Institute of International Law. With respect to the societies of international law, pamphlets on that subject were distributed in the various countries, and evidently much appreciated. The Peruvian Society of International Law was found to be leading a passive existence, owing to the impres- sion that nothing was to be done until the end of the European war; but on learning of the plans for the first meeting of the Institute, the leaders promised to continue actively in the final organization of the society. In Bolivia, the Minister of Foreign Affairs showed great in- terest in such a society and promised to take up the matter. In Chile, Dr. Alejandro Alvarez was much pleased to receive the pamphlets, for they would assist him in perfecting the Chilean organization, in stimu- lating activity in Bolivia, and in obtaining the organization of a society in Ecuador. In Argentina, Dr. Luis M. Drago promised to take up the matter as soon as possible.* The Uruguayan Society has made much progress ; it was inaugurated with imposing ceremonies, and an eloquent address was delivered by its President, Dr. Zorrilla de San Martin, on May 12, on the occasion of the visit to Montevideo of Dr. Lauro Muller, the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Brazil. The Minister of Foreign Affairs of Paraguay also accepted with interest the sug- gestion to organize such a society. Several of the leaders of the Bra- zilian Society were absent at the time of our visit, but the pamphlets were delivered to other members. With reference to local societies of international conciliation and of *Since this report was written, a complete organization of a national branch of the American Institute of International Law has been effected in Argentina, with Dr. Luis M. Drago as its President and active spirit. The following is a list of the other National Institutes already effective in South America, with a list of their officers so far as reported : Argentine Republic. — Luis M. Drago, President; Eduardo Sarmiento Las- piur, Sec'y Gen'l. Bolivia. — Victor E. Sanjines, President; Alberto D. de Medina, Sec'y; Dario Gutierrez, Treas. Brazil — Amaro Cavalcanti, Chairman; Manoel Peregrino de Silva, Sec'y; Alfredo Pinto, Treas. Chile. — Luis Barros Borgoho, President; Ricardo Montaner Bello, Sec'y; Jorje Errazuriz Tagle, Treas. Costa Rica. — Luis Anderson, President; Claudio Gonzalez Rucavado, Sec'y; Ezequiel Gutierrez, Treas. Dominican Republic. — No list of officers. Guatemala. — No list of officers. Mexico. — No list of officers. Nicaragua. — Modesto Barrios, President ; Francisco Paniagua Prado, Sec'y. Panama. — Federico Boyd, Honorary President; Samuel Lewis, President; E. Hazera, Sec'y. Peru. — Ramon Ribeyro, President; Jose Matias Manzanilla, Vice-President; Juan Bautista de Lavalle, Sec'y; Anibal Maurtua, Treas. Uruguay. — No list of officers. Venezuela. — No list of officers. 4 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE international law, Senator Burton's recommendations were a continua- tion of the work so well initiated by Hon. Robert Bacon during his journey through South America two years ago, when I had the honor to accompany him. The seeds sowed by Mr. Bacon have borne good fruit and their results will become more apparent as time goes on. As a consequence of his trip, societies for international conciliation were founded in several countries, and a national society of inter- national law was founded in every country he visited except the Argentine Republic, that is to say, in Brazil, Uruguay, Chile and Peru. In the Argentine Republic, untoward circumstances have delayed the organization of such a society, but the ground is prepared and the seed is there. The influence of his suggestions has penetrated to other countries of South America. Wherever he went, his distinguished per- sonality and courteous manner left an agreeable impression and he is pleasantly remembered by all who met him. Another distinguished American who has accomplished invaluable results in bringing the North and South closer together is Hon. Elihu Root. It is safe to say that no citizen of our country is more widely admired, respected and beloved in Latin America. He, better than any- one else, has been able to lay before Latin America the true disposi- tion of the United States with reference to the southern republics. The memory of his great trip in 1906, and of the words of encouragement and assurance which he uttered, is fresh in the minds of all. We had abundant opportunity to observe the value of such inter- national visits of distinguished men and their effect in promoting friendly relations. Mr. Root and Mr. Bacon were everywhere referred to with affection. In going down the west coast, we found the visit of the Hon. William J. Bryan well remembered, and on the east coast and in the interior the visit of Hon. Theodore Roosevelt was often men- tioned. A more detailed account of the trip is here given. New York to Peru At noon, on March 20, 1915, we left New York on the United Fruit Steamer Metapan, and after a cold and rough voyage entered the har- bor of Havana, March 24. Here the steamer remained for twenty- four hours; but owing to quarantine regulations on the Canal Zone, none of the passengers in transit were permitted to disembark, nor were visitors from the city allowed on board. After several days more on the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, we arrived at Colon at daybreak on March 29. SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 5 Senator Burton was received by the captain of the port and an aide of Governor Goethals, as well as by the Governor of Colon, Mr. Ruben S. Arcia, who, by order of the Panamanian Government, came in per- son to welcome him. Unfortunately, our stay on the Isthmus was restricted to a few hours, as the steamer we were to take at Panama was ready to sail. We made the most of the time, motored to Gatun with Governor Arcia and saw vessels passing through the great locks ; then continued by railroad automobile to Gamboa, where we took a gasoline launch through Culebra Cut; and then went on to Panama, meeting Governor Goethals on the way. In the City of Panama, Sena- tor Burton called on President Belisario Porras, and had a cordial conversation with him. After lunch at the Tivoli Hotel, where we met the American Minister, William Jennings Price, General Clarence R. Edwards, and other American functionaries, we hastened to Balboa and boarded the Peruvian steam Ucayali, which sailed at 2 p.m. The Pacific Ocean was true to its name. On March 31 we crossed the equator and on the following day entered the Gulf of Guayaquil. We sailed up the wide, muddy bay and river, through a forest region where the banks were covered with dense tropical vegetation, then through a flat grazing country with much cattle, and in the afternoon anchored before the city of Guayaquil. Quarantine regulations in Peru forbade our landing in the principal city of Ecuador, but we derived much information from conversations with officials and merchants who came aboard. The vessel loaded and unloaded all night and sailed the next morning. Before sailing, we saw, far to the northeast above the clouds, the summit of Chimborazo, a giant cone with a broken top. By evening we had emerged from Ecuadorean waters, and were abreast of Puerto Pizarro, where the conqueror of Peru made his first landing in the confines of that country; it is a small village at the edge of a large plain, near the city of Tumbez. From here the character of the coast changed, and treeless arid hills became its feature. Peru. Soon after dawn on April 3, our vessel entered the semi-circular harbor of Paita, surrounded by arid bluffs. We went ashore with the American consular agent, Mr. Charles G. B. Wilson, and the represen- tative of W. R. Grace & Company, and visited the custom house, the little plaza with its struggling plants and the two old churches, and walked through several of the narrow, dusty streets, bordered by small bright-colored houses, and glaring in the sunlight. . Further down the coast, the steamer anchored off Eten, half con- 6 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE cealed on a sandy shore next to a sandy mountain, where the sea was rough and the passengers who disembarked were lowered to lighters in a barrel cut out on one side. It also stopped at Pacasmayo, another small town on the edge of the sea in arid surroundings. The next stop was at Salaverry, a little port town sheltered by a rocky headland on the outskirts of the desert. Here we went ashore with the American consul, Mr. John B. Brophy, and had time to take the train to the city of Trujillo, lying not far from the coast, in an irrigated river valley. Though our stay was limited to a few hours, we were able to see the principal streets and churches, and have talks with several prominent merchants. On the next day, April 6, we arrived in the harbor of Callao, and were met by the American Minister, Hon. Benton McMillin, our consul general, Hon. William W. Handley, and by the official representative of the Peruvian Foreign Office, Mr. German Cisneros y Raygada, who took us ashore in a navy barge and on to Lima in a special electric car. The week spent at Lima was crowded with visits and trips for sight- seeing and study, interviews with prominent men, and social functions where Senator Burton was enabled to meet many of the most dis- tinguished Peruvians and foreigners. There are few cities so rich in historical associations as the old capital from which the Spanish vice- roys ruled their vast dominions. We visited the great cathedral and the ancient church and monastery of San Francisco with its secluded inner court ; the old government palace which has been the home of viceroys and governors from the time of Pizarro ; the old Inquisition building now occupied by the Peruvian Senate ; the city hall, the house of Torre-Tagle, one of the most interesting specimens of the home of a noble Spanish family in America; and the valuable collection of an- tiquities belonging to Senator Javier Prado y Ugarteche. It is most unfortunate that not more effort has been made to preserve the price- less relics of Peruvian history. Ignorance, indifference and cupidity have been responsible for the destruction and scattering of antiquities since the Spanish conquest; and even now the National Museum con- taining the great collection of the Peruvian Government is located on the second floor of a building which is not fire proof, and is closed for lack of funds. The buildings and institutions which indicate the trend of the present are also of interest. We visited the National Library, the archive room, the home of the Geographical Society, the University of San Marcos, the School of Medicine, and the Engineering School. Everywhere Sen- ator Burton was courteously received and shown around. At the Uni- versity, the rector, Dr. Jose Pardo, then presidential candidate and now SENATOR BURTON S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 7 president-elect of Peru, and members of all the faculties, accompanied Senator Burton through the building. A trip to Rio Blanco, on the Central Railroad of Peru, arranged by Mr. W. L. Morkill, President of the Peruvian Corporation, gave an idea of the difficulty of railroad construction in the Peruvian moun- tains and afforded views of magnificent mountain scenery. Among the many gentlemen with whom Senator Burton enjoyed in- terviews were the President of Peru, Gen. Oscar Benavides ; the Min- ister of Foreign Affairs, Dr. Solon Polo ; Dr. Jose Pardo, rector of the University and now president-elect of Peru; his brother, Mr. Felipe Pardo, formerly Minister to the United States ; Dr. J. M. Manzanilla, Dr. Anibal Maurtua, Dr. Juan Bautista de Lavalle, Dr. Javier Prado y Ugarteche and Dr. Eleodoro Romero, professors at the University, and several of them prominent in political life ; Mr. Augusto Durand, a political leader; Messrs. Victor and Federico Pezet; Dr. Ernesto Odriozola, dean of the School of Medicine; Dr. Fernando Fuchs, of the Engineering School ; Mr. Emilio Ortiz de Zevallos ; and Mr. Isaias Pierola. Messrs. Manzanilla, Maurtua and Lavalle showed especial interest in the Scientific Congress to be held in Washington, and in the Peruvian Society of International Law, and gave valuable suggestions. With many others Senator Burton became acquainted during his visits to the various public institutions and at social gatherings, especially at a reception given in his honor by Consul General and Mrs. Handley, at lunches given by Mr. and Mrs. Felipe Pardo and the British Minister, Mr. Ernest A. Rennie, and at dinners given by the American Minister and Mrs. McMillin, and by President Benavides. Too much can not be said of the generous hospitality of the Peruvian Government. President Benavides, Minister of Foreign Affairs Polo, and every official with whom we came in contact did their utmost to make our stay agreeable and instructive. Mr. German Cisneros, the introducer of diplomats, was our constant and indefatigable companion and guide. The attentions shown us by the Government culminated in a sumptuous banquet given to Senator Burton by His Excellency, President Benavides, at which the floral decorations were remarkable in their oddity and beauty. The banquet was attended by the mem- bers of the Cabinet and their wives, and many other distinguished persons. Among those present were President Benavides ; Col. Abrill, President of the Council of Ministers ; Mr. Polo, Minister of Foreign Affairs ; Mr. Benavides, Minister of the Interior ; Mr. Jibenez, Minis- ter of Justice ; Mr. Oyanguren, Minister of Finance ; Mr. Alayza, Min- ister of Public Works ; and Mr. Carmona, Mayor of Lima. On this occasion, and everywhere in Peru, it was gratifying to hear from all i< CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE sides the kindest expressions of affection and admiration of the Peru- vians for the United States. It was with regret that we left Lima and embarked at Callao. On the second day after our departure, the vessel arrived at Mollendo, where we disembarked in a rough surf and took the train for Arequipa. This trip was one of the most beautiful features of the whole journey. The train passed first over bare, stony hills, then in zigzag curves climbed mountains with magnificent views of the distant ocean, then crossed a barren plain with strange crescent-shaped sand dunes, then climbed above another mountain ridge from which an imposing view was obtained of an arid rugged plateau, like a frozen yellow sea, and finally followed a ravine which gradually widened into the plain of Arequipa. We were fortunate in making connections at Mollendo with the tri- weekly train. One of the difficulties of travel in South America is the uncertainty of railway connections. From the coast to Arequipa there were three trains a week, from Arequipa to Cuzco and La Paz there was but one weekly train making through connections. Also from La Paz to Arica and Antofagasta there was only a single train a week. The train service between La Paz and Antofagasta illustrates the im- possibility of laying out a definite itinerary. At one time there were three through trains a week, then the service was reduced to two, and after the outbreak of the European War to only one train every two weeks, every other Saturday. Several months ago it was made one train a week. Not only is there this great lack of facilities, but in addition it is practically impossible to obtain accurate information until one arrives at the very railroad station from which the train is to depart. Before leaving the United States the only way in which I was able to obtain even a general idea of the time tables of the Bolivian railway was by visiting the Bolivian consulate in New York and looking over files of newspapers. The various steamship agencies in New York either had no information or their information was incorrect. The time tables are frequently changed without notice, and even at Lima it was impossible to obtain accurate data about the trains in southern Peru without sending telegrams of inquiry, although the Southern Railway of Peru belongs to the same company which manages the Central Railway. At Arequipa it was necessary to send a telegram to La Paz in order to ascertain on what dates trains left that city for Arica and Antofagasta. We had similar difficulties with reference to the railroad from Santiago across the Andes, the railroad and steamship connections between Buenos Aires and Paraguay, and the railroads SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 9 of Brazil. It would be a great assistance to persons intending to travel in South America, and would doubtless foster intercourse, if some office in the United States, the Pan American Union for instance, made it a point to gather and have ready at all times the latest South Ameri- can steamship schedules and railroad time tables. Another difficulty about South American travel, of which our party was most keenly made aware in Arequipa, is the lack of adequate hotel accommodations. While most of the capitals have fairly comfortable hotels, Buenos Aires is the only city where there is a hotel of the kind which the American traveling public generally demands. Even in so important a capital as Rio de Janeiro, the hotel accommodations were poor, and in some of the interior towns they are of the most primitive kind. Conditions are gradually growing better, but there would seem to be an opportunity for profit in the establishment of adequate hotels. During our trip from Arequipa to Cuzco and on to Lake Titicaca, we found it most convenient to sleep and take our meals on the train. After an early excursion through the city of Arequipa, and a visit to the old Jesuit church with its elaborate facade, and to the spacious cathedral, we left for the town of Juliaca. For a long time Mt. Misti, which towers over the city, remained in sight, as well as Mt. Chachani. The train passed through a rocky and arid country, but higher up reached grazing land where there were views of distant snowy peaks and where the Indians who appeared at the railroad stations were at- tired in picturesque native costumes. In the afternoon we passed the highest point reached on our journey, 14,731 feet high, where the rari- fied atmosphere made breathing difficult. We stayed over night at Juliaca and left the following morning for Cuzco. The train first traversed a plain bounded by mountains and used for grazing, formerly a part of the bed of Lake Titicaca. The valley gradually became nar- rower and the ground higher, affording pasture to large flocks of llamas and alpacas. At La Raya, the highest point of the pass is reached, at an altitude of 14,153 feet. The train then follows the course of the Vil- canota River, one of the most remote of the headwaters of the Amazon. It flows through a fertile valley full of Indian villages, where the na- tives who gather at the stations in their peculiar ponchos and hats, still speak the Quechua language. Late in the evening we arrived at the old Inca capital, Cuzco. The courtesy of the Peruvian Government extended to the point of instructing the prefects and principal officials of the towns where we stopped, to show us every attention. In this way we had the pleasure of meeting the prefect of Arequipa ; and at Cuzco, also, the prefect of the Department, Mr. Felix Costa Laurent, came to greet us. He was 10 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE accompanied by Dr. Albert A. Giesecke, the American rector of the University of Cuzco. Dr. Giesecke's work is an example of Yankee influence bringing new life into old surroundings. He is a young grad- uate of the University of Pennsylvania, who was in Cuzco as an agent of the Department of Commerce at a time when trouble occurred be- tween the students of the decadent University of Cuzco and the rector of the institution. Dr. Giesecke was tendered the office of rector and though he has been seriously hampered by a lack of funds, the insti- tution under him has made substantial progress and its reputation has greatly increased. In addition he has been elected a member of the city council of Cuzco, and has done valuable work in preserving the ancient monuments, in obtaining better and cleaner streets — in which direction there is still a great deal to be accomplished — and in awaken- ing the citizens to the resources and requirements of their city. He and his friends are now planning a "greater Cuzco" campaign of education within and advertisement abroad. His great handicap is the difficulty of securing funds and at the present moment he is especially anxious to obtain a suitable library of Spanish books for the University. The University may be said to possess no library at all, and any donations of Spanish books would be of the greatest value in promoting the in- struction of aspiring young Peruvians and in assisting the praise- worthy efforts of Dr. Giesecke. We spent a busy day at Cuzco. With the prefect and Dr. Giesecke, we rode up to the stupendous megalithic Inca fortification of Sac- sahuaman, which commands the city and surrounding valley ; viewed other mysterious Inca remains ; visited the walls of the palace of Manco Capac, the first Inca ; the cathedral with its collection of pic- tures of bishops of Cuzco, beginning with Pizarro's companion, Val- verde ; the Jesuit church on the plaza ; the University which occupies the building formerly inhabited by the Jesuits ; the Merced church and monastery with ornately carved pillars, surrounding the court yard ; and the Santo Domingo church and monastery, built upon the site of the Inca Temple of the Sun, some of the walls of which are still visible. Throughout the city, forming part of many houses, we saw massive Inca walls, from which the whitewashing that formerly obscured them has been removed largely through the efforts of Dr. Giesecke. The city council of Cuzco declared Senator Burton "an illustrious guest of the city," and the Mayor, and a committee of the city council notified him of this designation at a reception given at the home of a distinguished citizen, Mr. Bonachea. The Mayor and Dr. Giesecke made addresses, and Senator Burton responded, expressing his thanks for the honor, and his good wishes for the future of the city. At this SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 11 reception pieces of weirdly attractive Inca music, collected by a Peru- vian musician, were rendered. On the return from Cuzco to Juliaca, we stopped for a short time at Sicuani and saw an Indian market. Several thousand Indians were assembled in their native costumes, the women selling, and the men standing by, among them a number of Indian alcaldes, or local chiefs, with enormous staffs of office. From Juliaca we continued to Puno on the edge of Lake Titicaca, and here embarked on a small steamer, which left on the following morning. Bolivia The daylight trip across Lake Titicaca was very interesting. The lake is two miles above sea level and while the nights were very cold, the day was warm and pleasant. We sailed over the green waters to Copacabana on the Bolivian shore and visited an old shrine which attracts pilgrims, then passed the Island of the Sun, the sacred Island of the Incas, as well as the Island of the Moon, both of them cov- ered with terraces, on some of which ruins were to be seen, and finally arrived at the Bolivian port of Guaqui. At sunset there was a magnificent view of two hundred miles of snowy Andes from Illampu to Illimani. On the following day we continued our journey to La Paz, stopping on the way at Tiahuanaco, where we went out to view the ancient pre-Inca mounds and monoliths with their mysterious carvings. After traveling through a grazing country, the train crossed a monotonous plateau to a station called Alto, where a change was made to an electric car; an immediate descent followed into a deep valley, where the city of La Paz lies picturesquely on the steep banks of a small stream. The American Minister, Hon. John D. O'Rear, awaited us at Alto, and the Bolivian Sub-Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Rafael Torrico Lemoine, at the station in La Paz. During our stay at La Paz, Senator Burton had interesting con- ferences with the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Hon. Victor E. San- gines; Mr. Rafael Torrico Lemoine, Sub-Secretary; Mr. Anibal Capriles, the Minister of Public Instruction; Mr. Jorge E. Zalles, President of the Bank of the Nation; Mr. Jose Gutierrez Guerra, a banker and deputy in Congress, and other distinguished persons. He was received by President Ismael Montes, who expressed a strong desire for closer intellectual and commercial relations with the United States. At a dinner given to Senator Burton by Minister O'Rear, and at a lunch given by Mr. and Mrs. Zalles, Senator Burton met many 12 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE persons prominent in political and financial affairs, including Messrs. Micael Saracho and Jose Carrasco, Vice-Presidents of the Republic; Mr. Victor E. Sangines, Minister of Foreign Affairs; Mr. Julio Zamora, Minister of Finance; Mr. Placido Sanchez, Minister of Jus- tice; Mr. Anibal Capriles, Minister of Public Instruction; Mr. Nestor Gutierrez, Minister of War; Mr. Nestor Cueto V., Prefect of the City of La Paz; Mr. Ezequiel Zuazo, President of the Municipal Council; Mr. Jorge Saenz, President of the Bolivian National Bank; and Mr. Ismael Montes, Jr. The Bolivian Government was very cordial, and with its assistance Senator Burton made a special study of educational conditions in La Paz, visiting, in company with the Minister of Public Instruction, Mr. Capriles, and the Sub-Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Torrico Lemoine, the High School, the National Museum, and the School of Medicine, where valuable results have been obtained in serum work and important experiments are being made. At an American Metho- dist educational institution, the "Colegio Ingles," Senator Burton and Mr. O'Rear made addresses. Though the climate at the time of our stay was quite trying, the afternoons being warm and the nights and mornings uncomfortably cold, the sight-seeing features of the trip were not neglected, and in company with Minister O'Rear, who was very attentive, we visited the chief points of interest in the quaint old city and its wild and rocky surroundings. It was decided that Senator Burton and I return to the coast by railroad to Arica, while Mr. Wilson was to take a train to Antofagasta and join the vessel there. We accordingly left La Paz on the evening of April 23. On the following morning the train reached Puquios station, where a rack engine was attached and a steep downward grade through an utterly barren country began. The railroad followed a deep gully and at times views were obtained of the barren lowland and the distant ocean. Further on the country became sandier and the train descended to the sea shore which it followed to Arica. Here we embarked on the Chilean steamer Palena, which sailed at six p.m. Chile Stops were made by the steamer at Iquique, Antofagasta and Coquimbo. On the morning of April 28 we sighted Mt. Aconcagua far in the distance, and in the afternoon of the same day arrived at Valparaiso. Mr. Verne L. Havens, the American Commercial At- tache; Mr. Leo J. Keena, the American Consul, and Mr. Frederic Wightman, the local manager of W. R. Grace & Company, came SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 13 aboard to meet us, as well as Mr. Anibal Las Casas, the Secretary of the Intendente of Valparaiso. On the following day, after viewing the city with Consul Keena and holding interviews with prominent merchants, we left Valparaiso at noon on a special car, kindly placed at Senator Burton's disposal by the Chilean Government and attached to the regular train, Mr. Havens, the Commercial Attache, accompanying us. We followed the rocky bed of the Aconcagua River to Llaillai, and thence traveled through a rocky ridge of treeless mountains to the plain of Santiago. It was autumn in Chile and delicious grapes, pears and apples were on sale at the railroad stations along the way. We reached Santiago in the evening and were met at the station by Hon. George T. Summerlin, American Charge d' Affaires; Hon. Perry Beldon, Secretary of the Embassy, and Mr. Carlos Morla Lynch, introducer of diplomats, rep- resenting the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Minister of Foreign Affairs was absent from Chile at the time of our visit, but the Minister of War and Marine, Mr. Cox Mendez, temporarily in charge of foreign affairs, presented Senator Burton to the President of Chile, Honorable Ramon Barros Luco, who, though advanced in years, spoke with enthusiasm of a trip he hoped to make to the United States. At a dinner given by Mr. Sum- merlin, American Charge d'Affaires, Senator Burton met three Ex- Ministers of Foreign Affairs; Dr. Enrique Villegas, Dr. Antonio Huneeus, and Senator Manuel Salinas, as well as Mr. Luis Barros Borgofio, Director of the Mortgage Bank, Mr. Carlos Castro Ruiz, Sub-Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Dr.. Alejandro Alvarez, and other distinguished gentlemen. Of especial interest were extensive conferences which Senator Burton had with Dr. Alejandro Alvarez, the distinguished Secretary of the American Institute of International Law and counsellor of the Department of Foreign Affairs of Chile; Dr. Julio Philippi, Pro- fessor of Finance at the University of Chile; Dr. Moises Vargas, Professor of Administrative Law at the University and Sub-Secre- tary of Railways; Dr. Carlos Silva Cruz, Director of the National Library; and Dr. Enrique Foster Recabarren, a Justice of the Supreme Court and son of an old American resident. Messrs. Philippi and Vargas had been appointed a committee by the University faculty to show Senator Burton around and give him any desired information, and they did so in an admirable manner. With one or both of them we visited the capitol, the University, the School of Medicine, and adjoining hospital, and a school of physical culture, meeting a number of the professors. One of our most inter- 14 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE esting visits was to the Palace of Justice, where we met the justices of the Supreme Court and Court of Appeals, attended a hearing in the Court of Appeals, and were honored by being invited to sit with the Supreme Court during the admission of an attorney, Senator Burton sitting next to the Chief Justice. Dr. Carlos Silva Cruz conducted Senator Burton through the National Library of Chile and showed him the valuable archives there kept, which include the old Jesuit records pertaining to the activities of that Order in Paraguay and in the Philippines. Senator Burton also visited the attractive parks of Santiago, the Parque Cousino, the Quinta Normal, and the pretty driveway called the Alameda, and ascended to the very top of the Cerro de Santa Lucia, the acropolis of Santiago. He also viewed the exhibition of paintings and historical relics at the Museo de Bellas Artes. At two educational institutions where English is taught, the "Instituto Ingles," a boys' school, and the "Colegio de Senoritas," a Methodist institution for girls, Senator Burton made addresses to the pupils. It had been Senator Burton's desire to remain in Santiago a con- siderably longer time, and to make excursions to the southern part of Chile, but the uncertainty of railroad communications interfered with his plans. The railroad across the Andes had been blocked by snow slides for several weeks. It was now open, but as winter was ap- proaching it might be closed indefinitely at any moment by snow storms. In such event we should have been obliged to make the journey to the Argentine by way of the Straits of Magellan, a much longer trip, made more undesirable by the circumstance that no steamer was to leave Valparaiso on that route for over three weeks. Prudence, therefore, made an early departure by train advisable. As a matter of fact the road remained open about two weeks longer and was then closed by winter storms. The uncertainty caused by the weather dem- onstrated that the problem of transportation between Chile and the Argentine Republic has not yet been satisfactorily solved. We left Santiago in the evening of May 3, proceeding as far as Los Andes, a small town in the foot-hills, on a special car offered by the Chilean Government and attached to the regular train. It was nearly midnight when we arrived at Los Andes, and here we remained in the railroad hotel until the following morning. The day required for the trip on the narrow gauge railroad across the mountains was perhaps the most interesting single day of the whole journey. The road has many cog-wheel sections and very steep grades. It first followed the valley of the Aconcagua River, then made a great detour at Juncal, climbing ever higher with magnificent views of snowy SENATOR BURTON'S TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA 15 mountain peaks, then passed the beautiful lake, Laguna del Inca, in the midst of huge boulders, and finally reached snow level and traversed the trans-Andean tunnel to the Argentine side. Argentina A few minutes after reaching Argentine territory, a stop was made at Puente del Inca, a natural rocky bridge spanning a mountain torrent where there were mineral springs. On the Argentine side the valley was wider than on the Chilean side, and gradually became a plain, but again narrowed to a gorge where the railroad is cut into the moun- tain on the edge of the river. The descent was rapid, with much diversity of imposing scenery, in which the bare rugged mountain sides were tinged in many different shades of color. Both on the Chilean and on the Argentine section, the railroad managers were very attentive and courteous. Shortly after nightfall we arrived at the prosperous Argentine city of Mendoza, and had time to drive about the town. Here we changed to a broader gauge railroad and at 9 p.m. continued our journey. All the next day we traveled over flat green pampas stocked with cattle and sheep, where thousands of wild ducks were swimming on ponds formed by heavy rains. At 7 p.m. we arrived at Buenos Aires, where Ambassador Frederic Jesup Stimson, Secretary of the Em- bassy Hugh R. Wilson, Mr. Barilari of the Argentine Foreign Office, and Mr. R. O. Bailey of the National City Bank, waited to receive Senator Burton. A whole brigade of newspaper photographers took flashlight pictures of the Senator. In the great city of Buenos Aires there was so much to do and to study that the week we spent there was all too short. Highly inter- esting conferences were had by Senator Burton with Dr. Luis M. Drago, the Argentine statesman of international repute, with Dr. Estani'slao S. Zeballos, Ex-Minister of Foreign Affairs, and one of the strongest personalities of South America, with Dr. Ezequiel P. Paz, owner of La Prensa, with Dr. Manuel Lainez, editor of El Diario, with Dr. Emilio Frers, the Director of the Argentine Social Museum, and with Mr. Pillado, of the Argentine Statistical Service. Valuable information as to American interests in South America was obtained through conferences with Messrs. J. H. Allen and M. Drew Carrel of the National City Bank, Mr. Pemberton Smith, representing the United States Steel Products Company, Dr. Albert Hale, the American Commercial Attache, and many American business men established in Buenos Aires. Senator Burton was a guest at one of the weekly 16 CARNEGIE ENDOWMENT FOR INTERNATIONAL PEACE lunches of the American Commercial Club, at which some seventy- business men were present, and made an address. At the request of Rev. William P. McLaughlin of the Methodist Episcopal Church, Senator Burton also made a Sunday evening address at the church before an audience of some four hundred persons. He spoke of the tendencies for the better in modern life, counseling his hearers to observe the highest standards, and strongly recommended absolute neutrality for our country in the dreadful struggle which is now dev- astating Europe. His eloquent address was listened to with earnest attention by the audience. Senator Burton ma