;J':~»(K.¥?^Ji-v^'ri '•"?^rp i ■'^f:'^;= BmffM mM: Book ^ - Goiyriglit'N" COPYRIOHT DEPOSrr. DANIEL MILLER. Rambles in Europe. BY DANIEL MILLER, Author of "History of Reformed Church in Reading," "Early History of Reformed Church," "Pennsylvania German," etc. Reading, Pa. : DANIEL MILLER, 221 North Sixth St. I. M. BEAVER, 123 North Sixth St. 1011. COPYRIGHT, 1911, BT DANIEL MILLER. ©CI.A2S1)138 PREFACE. On May 19, 1910, a compaMy of four friends — Rev. C. E. Creitz, D. D., Rev. J. F. Moyer, Rev. Henry K. Miller and Daniel Miller, all of Reading, Pa. , sailed from If ew York in the North German Lloyd steamship "Grosser Kurfuerst" for Europe. They spent three months profitably and delightfully in a tour through England, Scotland, France, Belgium, Holland, Ger- many, Austria, Switzerland and Italy. Covering more than 6,000 miles on the Atlantic Ocean and over 4,000 miles on land, they visited some forty cities and towns, including the great capitals of the countries named. Moreover, the mountains Rigi, Jungfrau and Vesuvius were ascended. The tour was intended as a vacation trip, and it proved to be a season of rest and recreation. To visit and see the places about which we had read and heard, afforded the party great satisfaction. * as made city minister, and here he performed the greater part of his reforma- tion work. Edinburgh is a religious city. There are many churches, and all seem to be well attended. It is a beautiful thing on Sunday morning and evening to hear the many church bells ring, including several chimes, and to see large numbers of people flock to the churches. The Free Church of Scotland seems to be the strongest religious factor here, far more so than the Church of England. The Wes^eyans or Methodists are also a considerable element in the religious life of the city, while the Roman C'atholics are said to be increasmg in power. The Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary's, opened in 1879, is one of the largest churches erected in Great Britain since the Reformation. Friends of the Reformation founded the University of Edinburg in 1582. There are now over 3,000 stu- dents. Among the famous men who graduated from this University are Hume, Goldsmith, James Bruce, Walter Scott, Lord Palmerston, Earl Russell, Carlisle, Darwin, etc. The University library contains about 200,000 books and 5,000 manuscripts. EDINBURG. 89 There are many public institutions and charities in the city. One of these is the Royal Hospital, which is '^ open to the sick and hurt of all countries/' Some 9,000 patients are treated here every year, at an annual expenditure of f 150,000. There are many places of historic interest in Edin- burg. One of the most interesting is Holyrood Palace, where the former rulers of Scotland resided. Among these was the unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots, who was beheaded. On the site of the palace formerly stood Holyrood Abbey, which was founded in 1128 by David I. in memory of the place where he was saved from an infuriated stag by the interposition of a mysterious cross. The rooms of Queen Mary are still preserved and contain some relics of that ill-fated lady. In one of the rooms a brass plate on the floor marks the spot where David E-izzio, Mary's chief minister, was mur- dered on March 9, 1566. A large picture gallery con- tains many imaginary portraits of the kings of Scot- land. On the north of the palace are the ruins of Holyrood Chapel, once a fine building. In this chapel Queen Mary was married to Both well, after her hus- band. Lord Darnley, had been murdered. The palace is located at the eastern end of the old part of the city. Near the palace is a small, very old little circular build- ing which, it is said, served as a bath-house for Queen Mary. There are many places of great interest in this sec- tion. One is St. Giles' Episcopal church. Next to the little chapel at the castle, it is the oldest house of wor- ship in the city. The church was erected in the twelfth century on the site of an earlier one. In 1385 the ? 90 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. greater part was destroyed by fire, but was restored in 1385-1460. At the time of the Reformation the in- terior of the church was defaced and robbed of its artis- tic ornaments, after which it was divided into four sep- arate churches by means of partitions. In 1871-83 it was restored to its original appearance, mainly at the cost of Dr. William Chambers, the well-known pub- lisher. The four JSTorman pillars which support the tower arp supposed to date from the time of the original edifice in 1120. There are various memorials, one to John Knox, the great reformer. On some of the pil- lars hang old Scottish battle flags. An incident of much interest occurred in this church during the Reformation. In 1637 Charles I. sought to re-establish Episcopal worship here. On Sunday, July 23, Bishop Lindsay and Dean Hanna undertook to conduct a liturgical ser- vice in St. Giles', when Jenny Geddes, a plain woman, threw a stool at Dean Hanna, shouting : " Out, thou false thief ! Dost thou say mass at my lug ?'' A great uproar at once arose and both the Bishop and the Dean had to flee for their lives. It was said that this tumult was the deathblow to the liturgy in Scotland. Brass tablets indicate the places occupied by Jenny Geddes and the Dean. The sto©l which the former threw at the Dean is preserved in the National Museum at Edin- burg. In this church the " Solemn League and Cove- nant '^ was signed in 1643. This was a treaty between Scotland and England for the securing of civil and re- ligious liberty in both kingdoms. John Knox, the famous reformer, was for some time pastor of this church. St. Giles' church was formerly surrounded by a graveyard, but this has long since been obliterated and EDINBURG. 91 the site is now occupied by various edifices. One of these is Parliament Building, erected in 1633, in which the National Congress of Scotland held its sessions until the union of that country with England in 1707. Be- tween this building and St. Giles' church a stone in the pavement marks the grave of John Knox. It bears the inscription : '' J. K., 1762." At the burial of Knox the Earl of Morton, then Regent of Scotland, said : '^ Here lieth a man who in his life never feared the face of man." What an insignificant stone to mark the resting- place of a truly great man ! In the case of many others large monuments stand over their graves. But no matter. John Knox needs no material monument to per- petuate his fame. He is gratefully remembered to this day, not only by the Scotch people, but by all who love evangelical truth. Besides, there is a beautiful statue in white marble in the College of the United Free Church in Edinburg, where the World Missionary Con- ference of 1910 held its sessions. The statue represents Knox with outstretched hands. This feature seemed to have a beautiful significance at the close of the ses- sions, when the yard was filled with delegates. It seemed to me that John Knox was imparting his bene- diction upon the men who were considering plans to send to the ends of the earth the truth for which he contended so earnestly. John Knox's simple gravestone reminds us of a similar simple stone which marks the grave of the great John Calvin in a cemetery in Geneva wdth the letters " J. C." as the only inscription,, But neither is John Calvin forgotten. 92 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Not far from St. Giles' church is a quaint old house, in which John Knox is said to have resided. The house bears these two inscriptions : " Ye house of John Knox, and ye shoppe of Queen Mary's Goldsmith." — " Lufe God abufe al and yi nichtbour as yi self On the first floor books and pictures are sold, and the vsecond floor is occupied as a museum. Some question whether Mr. Knox ever lived here. I cannot prove that he did. In the old Parliament Building the Supreme Court of Scotland holds its sessions. Here, in a large hall, we saw a curious sight, that of numerous lawyers, wear- ing gowns and wigs, walking to and fro, arm in arm with clients and consulting with them. Usually law- yers attend to this work behind closed doors. There is a large library in the basement, parts of it located in dingy rooms. This is the largest library in Scotland, containing 490,000 volumes and many valuable manu- scripts. Here is f )und a copy of the first printed Bi- ble of Faust and Gutenberg, the Confession of Faith signed by James YI. in 1590, etc. There is also a large sitting statue of Sir Walter Scott. This large collection of books is known as the Advocates' Library. Canongate church is an interesting place. The building looks exceedingly old and musty. There are many old tombs, some of which are sadly decayed. We visited the graves of Adam Smith, tiie famous po- litical economist, and Horatio Bonar, the noted hymn- writer. CHAPTER VL-SCOTLAND (Continued)* Edinbupg.— The Covenanters.— The Poof.— Calton Hill.— The Great Forth;;Bridge.— The World's Missionary Conference.— Melrose Abbey.— Abbottsford. NOTHER very interesting old church is the Greyfriars' church, fronting on the street called Candlemaker^s Row. The church is surrounded by a large ceme- tery, which contains many very old tombs. Perhaps the most interesting is the one near the entrance upon whose marble slab the famous "National Covenant" was signed on February 28, 1638. Some of the signers wrote their names with their own blood instead of ink. By this covenant the Scotchmen renounced Romanism and Popery, and sol- emnly vowed to stand by each other in the defense of the Reformation doctrines. This document had been drawn up as early as 1580 and signed by people of all classes in 1581, and repeatedly afterwards. In 1638 it was once more adopted and signed. It seems to have been directed especially against the efforts of Charles I., King of England, to force the Established Church service upon Scotland. The Covenanters had to suffer terri«>]e persecution. Many died for the sake of their principles. In 1679 the Covenanters were badly defeated in a battle at Both well Brig, near Glas- gow. Many were killed or captured. 1200 prisoners were brought to Edinburg and confined in the north- west corner of the graveyard at the Greyfriars' church. This place is still to be seen. The prisoners suffered 94 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. great privations, being crowded into a comparativelj small space. In the north-east corner of the large graveyard is the Covenanters' Monument, consisting of a large marble slab erected against the high wall. The in- scription recites the story of the Covenanters. Al- though long, I copied it and reproduce it here : *^Halt, passenger, take heed what you do see, This tomb doth shew for what some men did die. "^^Here lies interred the du«t of those who stood 'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood; Adhering to the Covenants and laws, Establishing the fame, which was the cause. Their lives were sacrificed unto the lust Of Prelates abjured. Though here their dust Lies mixed with murder, and other crew. Whom justice justly did to death pursue ; But as for them, no cause was to be found Worthy of death, but only they were found Constant and steadfast, zealous witnessing For the prerogatives of Christ their King. Which truths were sealed by famous Guthrie's he^d, And all along to Mr Renwick's blood. They did endure the wrath of enemies, Reproaches, torments, deaths and injuries. But yet they're those who from such troubles came, And now triumph in Glory with the Lamb. "From May 27, 1661, that the most noble Mar- quis of Argyle was beheaded, to the 17 th of February, 1668, that Mr. James Ren wick suffered ; were one way or other Murdered and Destroyed for the same Cause about eighteen thousand, of whom were executed at Edinburg about an hundred of Noblemen, Gentlemen, Ministers, and others; noble Martyrs for Jesus Christ. The most of them lie here. Rev. 6 : 9, 10, 11." EDiNBURa (continued). 95 A high wall encloses Greyfriars' church. On the outside numerous houses have been built against the wall. They are very old and have a dingy appearance. The places described above are in old Edinburg, many of whose people are desperately poor. Nowhere else in Europe have we observed such poverty except in Naples, Italy. The population is very dense, a num- ber of families living in a single house. There are practically no yards. People must dry their wash by hanging it out of windows. Cowgate and Canongate, the two principal streets, are alive with children. These have no place to play except the narrow pavements and the streets. These children were without shoes and hats, although we wore our overcoats. The wonder is that not many of them are killed in the streets which are filled with wagons. As we passed along two little ones came very near being run over by a large wagon. In the nick of time the mother ran into the street and seized the little ones ™a boy by the arm and a girl by the hair — and dragged them to the pavement, both yell- ing at the top of their voices. Here, as elsewhere, a leading cause of the poverty of the people is intemper- ance. Liquor is sold in the grocery stores, and in many instances both parents . are drunkards. Many, fights occur on Saturday evenings, when a large part of the week's wages is spent for liquor. This miserable sec- tion of the city commences within a stone's throw of the hall in which the Missionary Conference was held. Surely here is a large field for home missionary work. Can nothing be done for these people? What are the rich church people in New Edinburg doing for them ? Cowgate is a dark spot in this city. 96 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. As stated, many of the most interesting historic places are in this dark section of the city. Tourists naturally visit it. Many idle persons stand ready to serve as guides for a little pay. Even the children en- gage in this profession, and it is surprising how well they are versed in local history. A little boy said to me : '' Come here ; I will show you something/' and taking me through a narrow alley he showed me a house in which Sir Walter Scott is said to have lodged at one time. The boy guide now said : " Can you spare me a penny?'' And a penny (two cents) he received. A littlefgirl said to one of our party : " Do you see that placej; over there? That is where a man was hanged. Can youlspare me a penny ?'' The gentleman replied : " So they^hang people there. Do you think they will hang me, too ?'' " Oh no, they will not hang such a nice man like you.'' Here any one will be considered nice who gives pennies. At one place we saw several bar?-footed boys sing- ing in the street. Their sweet voices brought pennies from the pockets of the strangers who listened tothem. These boys reminded us of Martin Luther, who when a boy was so poor that he used to go out and sing for bread. As in tbe days of. Jesus, people always have the poor with them. The University of Edinburg is a large institution. It was ^founded in 1582 by James VI., and now has about 150 professors and over 3,000 students. Its buildings are large and grand. They are located in the old part of the city. At the edge of the Univer- sity stood an old house, in which Lord Darnley, hus- band of Queen Mary, found a temporary home while EDINBURG (continued). 97 ill from small-pox. During the night of February 9, 1567, the house was blown up and Darnley killed. It is generally believed that the Earl of Bothwell had something to do with the tragedy. The suspicion was strengthened by the fact that he was married to Queen Mary within three months after the murder of Darnley. The ISTational Museum of Antiquities is a store- house of relics. Among the interesting objects are the old pulpit of John Knox, formerly in St. Giles' church, and the stool which Jenny Geddes threw at Dean Hanna in the same church. (See page 90.) Here is also a " guillotine,^' a machine used for beheading criminals. It is nicknamed "Scottish Maiden.'' The peculiar name is derived from that of its French inventor, Jo- seph Ignace Guillotin. In the art gallery connected with the Museum there are many portraits of eminent Scotchmen. An aged attendant takes great pleasure in explaining the paintings. The National Gallery contains a good collection of paintings by Italian, Spanish and British artists. In the eastern part of the city is the old Calton Cemetery, containing a number of interesting monu- ments. To me the most interesting is the one in mem- ory of our immortal American Abraham Lincoln. This consists of a large statue of Lincoln, with a slave at the base and the word " Emancipation." At another place is this quotation from Lincoln : " To Preserve the Jewel of Liberty in the Framework of Freedom." This monument indicates Scottish love for freedom. Another monument is in memory of the Scotch-Ameri- can soldiers who died in our Civil War. Then there is a monument in memory of David Hume, the great 98 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. historian — " Born April 26, 1711. Died August 25, 1776." Two monuments are in memory of Scotchmen who fell in the Boer War in South Africa. Calton Hill, a little farther east, affords a fine view of the city and surroundings. Here is a large monu- ment to the memory of Lord Nelson, the English hero of Trafalgar. A prominent object is the unfinished National Monument. The erection of this monument was undertaken by the city of Edinburg to commemo- rate the battle of Waterloo, but the work was planned on too elaborate a scale, and after a part, including a number of splendid pillars, had been erected and a vast sum of money spent, it was abandoned. In beholding this incomplete work one is reminded of what Jesus says of a man who would undertake to build a tower without first fully calculating the cost (Luke 14 : 28-30). In 1450 a wall was erected around Edinburg. About 1745 the wall was broken down in all direc- tions, and now only one of its towers remains at the boundary wall of Heriot's Hospital. One of the well-preserved houses is No. 39 George street, in which Sir Walter Scott resided from 1778 to 1826. A tablet in the wall so informs visitors. We also visited the famous Forth Bridge, about eight miles northwest of Edinburg. This is the fa- mous, gigantic Cantilever Bridge across the river Forth. It is 1 J miles long and the loftiest bridge in the world, being 450 feet from the base to the highest point. In its construction 45,000 tons of steel and 1 2,000 tons of iron were used. The largest two spans of the bridge are each 1,700 feet long. (The Brooklyn Bridge at New York has a span of 1,595 feet.) About $8,000,- EDINBURG (continued). 99 €00 was expeDded in the erection of the Forth Bridge. It is stated that 250 tons of paint and 35,000 gallons of oil are required to paint this great bridge, and it takes three years to perform the work. Daring the erection of the bridge at times 5,000 men were em- ployed, and 56 persons lost their lives by accidents while the work was going on. During our visit to Edinburg the ' World Mission- ary Conference was held in that city, June 14-23, 1910. The delegates from the Reformed Church in the United States were : Dr. James I. Good, Dr. A. R. Bartholomew, Dr. John H. Prugh, Rev. Henry K. Miller, Dr. W. E. Lampe, Dr. C. E. Creitz, Rev. John F. Moyer, Rev. H. H^ Cook and Daniel Miller. Such a conference meets every ten years. The last one was held in New York city, April, 1900. Great prepara- tions had been made for the Edinburg Conference, and it was successful in every respect. Eight commissions (or committees), composed of Europeans and Ameri- cans, had for months gathered information and formu- lated reports which furnished the subject-matter for the consideration of the conference. The great purpose of the meeting was to consider the best means of sending the gospel to all parts of the world in the shortest pos- sible time. About two thousand delegates, including many missionaries and representing nearly all denomi- nations, bad gathered from all parts of the world for this great purpose. It was an inspiring sight to see so great a gathering of people who differ in non-essen- tial matters, but are united in the great cause of evan- gelizing the world. The conference was opened with a reception on Monday evening, June 13, by the Lord Provost (Mayor) 100 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. and the Town Council. These gentlemen appeared in their robes of office, which are of striking character. Aboot 4,000 persons attended. The Lord Provost, as ilie Mayor is called, and his wife shook hands with the jaests, and the former then delivered a cordial address of welcome. Lord Balfour and several others made suitable replies. During the Conference two simultaneous meetings were held — one in Assembly Hall and the other in Synod Hall — since no meeting place in the city was large enough to accommodate all at one time. Lord Balfour was made president of the Conference, but D r. John R. Mott, of New York, actually presided at most of the Assembly Hall meetings. DiflPerent persons were chairmen at the Synod Hall. At the opening session messages of greeting were read from King George and ex- President Roosevelt. A good deal of time was devoted to earnest prayer. All felt that the success of the work depended upon the Lord's blessing. On Saturday, June 17, the delegates from the Re- formed Church, mentioned above, took dinner together at the County Hotel, where four of them sojourned during the Conference. This gathering was very pleas- ant. When in a strange land and far from home, friends are drawn together very closely. The time passed only too quickly. Our party spent two Sundays in Edinburg. On the morning of the first Sunday we attended St. George's United Free church. Dr. Alexander Whyte, senior pastor, conducted the service and preached on the text Matth. 28 : 20. This aged servant of the Lord de- EDINBURG (continued). 101 livered a beautiful sermon in plain language. It was the old gospel. Reference was made to the Missionary Conference, and the last prayer was almost entirely in its behalf. At the close of the regular service the pas- tor baptized a child, after setting forth the meaning of baptism in apt and touching words. Then followed the benediction. St. George's is a large congregation, with four pas- tors Strangers had to wait in the vestibule until a certain hour to give pewholders time to enter. These people came dressed in style. The ladies were richly garbed, and nearly all the men wore silk hats and car- ried canes. While waiting a good while to be ad- mitted, I was again convinced that the pew system is a necessary evil. Finally all were admitted and the place was soon filled. The church is large, but quite plain, and the service is free. There is no mitsic ex- cept congregational singing, and this is vigorous. Scotch people do not believe in choirs. A precentor leads the singing. The people have Bibles in the pews and follow the minister when he reads the Scripture lesson, and also refer to the text as soon as it is an- nounced. Their prompt finding of passenges indicates their familiarity with the Book. — In the early evening we worshiped at St. Andrew's church, when Dr. W. M. Macgregor preached a good sermon on ^'PauFs Vision.'^ — At 8 p. m. we attended a lecture by Dr. Mark Guy Pearce on Hugh Latimer, in the Wesleyan Methodist church. The church was crowded and the audience constantly applauded the witty speaker. Un- fortunately there '^^as more about the speaker than Hugh Latimer in the lecture. 102 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. On the following Sunday morning three of us at- tended St. George's church. This time we were somewhat disappointed. The sermon was preached by a young minister, who employed fine language, but furnished little food for hungry souls. In the early evening we listened with real joy to Prebendary Webb- Pebloe, a venerable, patriarchal looking clergyman. His sermon was full of gospel truth. He is thoroughly at home in the Bible, and quoted Scripture as few men can do. It was a great pleasure to listen to him. Melrose Abbey is one of the places usually visited by tourists. It is located in a pleasant village of about 1,400 people, 37 miles southeast of Edinburg. The village is a quiet old place, but of little importance. It is situated on the river Tweed. Melrose Abbey is con- sidered the finest ruin in Scotland, and I think the claim is well founded. At this place a monastery was founded about the year 635. It was burned in 839, and left deserted for a long time. In 1136 David I. founded Melrose Abbey. This was twice burned by the Euglish. Between 1322 and 1505 it was slowly rebuilt upon a magnificent scale. Forty years after the latter date two English invasions commenced the destruction of Melrose Abbey, which was made complete by the Reformers. The Abbey was a Roman Catholic institution, which fact accounts for its destruction by the Reformers. That was long before Scotland was united with England. Oliver OromweiPg army passed along here and made a target of the Abbey for their amusement and the marks of their work are still visible. Although in ruins, the Abbey still remains a magnificent specimen of mediae- MELROSE ABBEY. 10^ val art. In its time Melrose Abbey was undoubtedly the most beautiful building in Scotland. In looking at the ruins one is filled with feelings of sadness. Melrose Abbey was 215 feet long and IIS feet wide. There was much fine sculpture. Alexander II. and the heart of Robert Bruce were buried near the altar. Some of the nobility of Scotland and others are buried within the church walls. In the yard are the graves of some well-known persons. The cloister seems to have been 1§0 feet square. There is a yard aside of the building, where the monks were in the habit of taking exercise, and all along the wall still can be seen stone benches, where they used to sit studying in the open air. There are numerous statues and busts of eminent saints, some of which are still in position, whilst others are lying around in various places. The adjoining grave- yard is large and contains the remains of many persons who were prominent in their day. The property is now owned by a duke. The village contains a number of hotels for the en- tertainment of tourists. Our party took dinner in a restaurant conducted by a German lady, who seemed much pleased when I spoke to her in her own language. Abbottsfoed, the home of Sir Walter Scott, is sit- uated three miles west of Melrose. It contains many relics of Scott, among them his last suit in a glass case, numerous walking sticks and other personal effects. His library contains about 20,000 volumes. The sev- eral rooms of the great novelist are pretty much as he left them at his death on September 21, 1832. Scott was twelve years in erecting the large home, which is beautifully located on the south bank of the river 104 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Tweed. Among the relics shown are many gifts from noted persons. The collection includes swords, armor and weapons of ancient knights and warriors. Mrs. Maxwell Scott, a great-granddaughter of the novelist, now owns the property. Our journey in Scotland is ended. We hasten back to Loudon, where we have already spent nine days with much satisfaction. Our route is along the east- ern coast of Scotland and England, with the North Sea in full view for a long distance. There are no hills in this section of the country. The region is mostly graz- ing land, wiih many cattle and sheep in the fields. There is very little wheat raised here, but instead a good deal of oats and large quantities of vegetables. On the whole it is a fine country. People were mak- ing hay. We rode in a fine express train, which car- ried us along over a solid roadbed at a speed of about fifty miles an hour. Space forbids even referring' to the cities through which we passed. CHAPTER VIL— BELGIUM* Ostend.— Bruges.— Ghent.— Brussels.— Waterloo.— Ant- werp.— Liege. ELGIUM is located south of Holland, and between France and Prussia. The country is 173 miles long and about 100 miles wide. It is one of the smaller States of Europe. The population is about 7,250,000. In this country the population is denser than anywhere else in Europe. The largest cities are Brus- sels, Antwerp, Liege and Ghent. Belgium is a Roman Catholic country. There are only about 20,000 Protestants, and some 300 Jews. In its more than 1,200 monasteries and convents live 4,000 monks and 21,000 nuns. Belgium, like Holland, is a low country, but not so level as the latter, there being a number of hills in different sections. The most hilly section is the eastern part, where the railroad passes through numerous tunnels. Hardly any fences are seen in the country. Until 1831 Belgium was a part of Holland. These two countries have long been called The Netherlands or Low Countries. In the year named the Southern Netherlands separated from Holland and became an independent kingdom. The first king was Prince Leo- pold of Saxe-Coburg, father of the second king Leo- pold, who died near the close of the year 1909. After leaving London our party proceeded by rail to Dover, where we boarded a steamboat and crossed the lower part of the North Sea to Ostend, Belgium. This short voyage was not at all unpleasant. 8 106 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. At Ostend we first set foot upon the continent of Europe, and here our baggage was once more examined by custom house officers. Ostend is one of the two seaports of Belgium, the other one being Antwerp. The king has his summer residence at Ostend. Its population is about 40,000. Being one of the most popular watering-places in Europe, during the summer it attracts some 45,000 people. The principal promen- ade is the so-called " Digue," a sea wall, which is very wide, 25 feet high and three miles long. This wall protects the town against the storms of the sea. Ost- end is famous on account of its long siege by the Span- iards, which it withstood from July 7, 1601, to Sep- tember 20, 1604, when it surrendered. The city was captured twice since — in 1706 by the Allies and in 1745 by the French. We did not tarry here, but pro- ceeded to Brussels. The first place of interest on the way is Bruges, the capital of the province of West Flanders. This was once a large and important place. It is said that in the fourth century it was practically the centre of the world^s commerce, with a population of 200,000. Now it has only about 50,000, and one-half of its peo- ple are very poor. The principal building in the place is the Notre Dame church, which has a spire 442 feet high, and contains many valuable paintings, exquisite wood carving, a statue of the Virgin Mary said to be by Michael Angelo, and various monuments. A pecu- liar building is a cloth and meat market with a famous tower 353 feet high and containing a chime of 48 bells, which is regarded as the finest in Europe. The chime is known through a poem of Longfellow. This inter- GHENT. 107 esting tower was erected in 1291. In the Gothic city hali there is a library of 100,000 volumes. Belgium is a fine country, and very fertile. The crops were in splendid condition — wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, etc. 1 never saw finer grain fields. Here I had my first view of the windmills that are so numer- ous in Belgium, Holland and in some other countries. They are large wooden structures, and are used for various purposes— to pump the water out of low lands into the canals, grind grain and run sawmills. In Hol- land they are most numerous. In that country I saw a large windmill which furnished the motive power for converting logs into building lumber. In Belgium I also saw the first dog-carts. One was drawn by three dogs and was used to haul grass. In this country large quantities of hops are raised. There are numerous meadows and much grazing land. Ghent is a large and important city. It is divided by canals into 26 islands, and these are connected by nearly 300 bridges. The cathedral of St. Bavon, which dates back to the thirteenth century, is considered one of the finest churches in Belgium. Its spire is 375 feet high. The cathedral contains a famous paintiog en- titled '' Adoration of the Lamb^' by the Yan Eyck brothers. The population of Ghent is about 165,000. Brussels (Briissel in German and Bruxelles in French) is the capital city of Belgium. Our visit to this city was quite interesting. Here we had our first experience with people whose language we could not speak. The principal languages spoken here are French and Flemish. On the way to the hotel I rode alongside of the driver of the carriage. He was an 108 SA3IBLES IN EUKOPE. affable and courteous gentleman, and explained to me various objects of interest along the way — in French ! I assented to all he said, and thanked him. Our land- lord spoke some English, and through him we man- aged to get along. There is also some Dutch spoken here> Addressing a gentlemao, I asked him whether he CO aid speak Englisho He replied " Niet." Then I asked whether he could speak German, and he re- plied : " Ooch niet.^' He was Dutch. Fortunately we needed but few directions, since our guide-book gave us fall information, and with the help of an excellent map we found our way quite easily. These helps we used largely in all cities visited. Brussels is one of the most beautiful cities in Eu- rope, with a population of 730,000. The largest and finest house of worship in Brussels is the old St. Gu- dule church, which dates back to the thirteenth cen- tury, and is adorned with beautiful windows. Its ex- terior is quite black and unattractive. The church was commenced about 1220 on th^ site of a former one which had been dedicated in 1047. Several windows are 225 feet high. The representations in the Upper half of the windows depict the legendary story of the Hosts which were stolen by Jews from St. Catherine's church and transfixed in their synagogue. According to the legend, the Hosts bled miraculously, which fact so scared the guilty ones that they determined to re- store them ; but they were punished by death for their wickedness. By far the most beautiful building in Brussels and in all Belgium is the new Palace of Justice, a very large and magnificent marble structure. It is a real BRUSSELS. 109 gem. There is hardly a grander edifice m all Europe than this one, and very few to equal it. Its erection was commenced in 1866 and completed in 1883 at a cost of about $ 1 0,000,000 The rotunda is embellished with colossal figures of Justice, Law, Strength and Clemency. Covering a larger area than St. Peter's church at Rome, the building contains 27 large court rooms, 245 other apartments and eight open courts. The dome is 320 feet high. It is customary for the lawyers in this court house to wear gowns with sur- plices, and small caps. From the front of this build- ing a beautiful view over the city is afforded. The royal palace is a large building, but much smaller than those of larger countries. In front of the palace is a fine park of 33 acres, which was a hunting ground in the fourteenth century. This park was the scene of a bloody conflict on September 23-26, 1830, Avhen Prince Frederick, son of the king of Holland, with an army of 10,000 men sought to capture Brus- sels, but was driven out. An interesting spot in the city is the Place of the Martyrs commemorating those Belgians who fell in the war with Holland in 1830, which resulted in the inde- pendence of Belgium. This war was to the Belgians what the War of the Revolution was to the Americans. The public library contains some 240,000 volumes and 22,000 manuscripts. An imposing and interesting building is the City Hall. This is a large structure, which was erected in sections between 1402 and 1444. There is a beautiful steeple, 370 feet high, which is surmounted by a gilded metal figure of the Archangel Michael, 16 feet in 110 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. height, which serves as a vane. In front of the City Hall is a large open square used as a market place. Oa three sides of the square are numerous old historic buildings, many of them belonging to various guilds, such as the halls of the Skippers, the Archers, the Car- penters, the Printers, the Bakers, the Tailors, the Pain- ters, the Butchers, the Brewers, etc. One of these buildings covers the site of a former house, which was occupied in 1131 by Pope Innocent II. In the centre of the old part of the city is the Grand Place, a market place, which is one of the finest medi- aeval squares in existence. It occupies an important position in the annals of the country. In the spring of 1568 twenty-five noblemen were beheaded here by or- der of the Duke of Alva, the bloody Spanish General, who captured Brussels in the year stated. In the fol- lowing June four other prominent Belgians perished here. The Picture Gallery contains about 700 paintings and is, next to that at Antwerp, the largest in Belgium. The University founded in 1834 has some 1,500 students. Among the varied manufactures of Brussels is the well-known Brussels carpet. Many dog-carts are to be seen on the streets. The dogs are hitched, not before, but under, the carts. Such teams are used largely in peddling milk. A certain man was selling white sand from a cart drawn by three dogs. At an- other point a cart was drawn by a man, a woman and a dog. While in Brussels we visited the International Ex- position in the eastern part of the city. The way thither led through a very wide thoroughfare with a BATTLEFIELD OF WATERLOO. Ill beautiful parkway in the centre. Two rows of large, fine shade-trees line the street, with a wide promenade in the centre. The exposition was called the "White City," because the many buildings were painted white. The exhibits were varied and as a whole very credit- able. We visited Brussels a second time on August 11. On August 14 a fire broke out on the exposition grounds which destroyed a large number of the build- ings, causing a loss of $10,000,000. At the time about 100,000 persons were on the grounds, and the most intense excitement prevailed. It is often claimed that for beauty Brussels rivals Paris, only that it is smaller in size. While in Brus- sels we saw an airship in the sky, the only one ob- served during our trip. We spent one day in a side-trip from Brussels to visit the Battlefield of Waterloo, about ten miles south of the city. This is the place where one of the most momentous battles of modern times was fought, which resulted in the complete and final over- throw of Napoleon Bonaparte. It occurred on Sunday, June 18, 1815. On the one side were the allied forces of the English, Dutch and Belgians under the Duke of Wellington, and the Germans under Gen. Bliicher ; and on the other side was the French army under Na- poleon. Gen. Bliicher's German army reached the battlefield only at 4.30 p. m. The struggle commenced at 11.30 a. m. The advantage was rather with Napo- leon, until the arrival of Gen. Bliicher, when the French army was completely routed, resulting in the deposition of Napoleon and his exile to St. Helena, where he died on May 5, 1821. Great was the slaughter. The 112 KAMBLES IN EUROPE. FreDchfloss, iDcluding prisoners, was 32,000, whilst the allied army lost 22,500, of whom 7,000 were Prussians. On the battlefield are a number of monuments. The principal one is an immense mound erected by Belgium, I'known as the Mound of the Lion. It is situ- ated at the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded in the great battle, and is 200 feet in height — 175 to thejbase of the colossal figure of a lion, which surmounts it. 226 steps lead up to this point. The ascent;^is fatiguing, but, of course, we had to make it. Thislion was cast from French cannon captured dur- ing the battle, and is said to weigh 28 tons. From the top of the mound a good view is afforded over the whole bat Jefield. Guides point out the different posi- tions occupied by the contending armies. A little white house is pointed out as the place in which Napo- leon had his headquarters, and where Wellington and Biiicher met and shook hands after the great battle. Some little distance east of the mound stands a shaft in honor of forty-two Hannoverian officers who were killed, and close by another in honor of Alexander Gordon, an aide of Welling ton. One of the monu- ments is an iron obelisk to the memory of the Prussians who fell in the battle. The village of Waterloo, near which the battle was fought, contains a population of about 3,600. The church contains a bust of Wellington and numerous marble slabs to the memory of English and Dutch offi- cers. In a garden near the church stands a small mon- umeut|in memory of the leg of the Marquis of Anglesia, the commander of the British cavalry, who underwent an operation immediately after the battle. BATTLEFIELD OF WATERLOO. 113 Being in an agricultural region, the battlefield is now, as it was then, farm -land, and fine crops are raised on the soil which during the momentous struggle was drenched with human blood. Farmers were engaged in cutting grain, and there was still a good deal to cut on August 11. The season here is more than a month later than in our state of Pennsylvania. Grass grows abunduntly oh the sides of the great mound, and at the time of our visit a number of cows were grazing at dif- ferent points, one about half way up the sharp slope. At a certain place along the public road we saw a large dog, acting in the capacity of a shepherd. A lot of sheep were grazing in a fenceless field and the dog was moving back and forth along a line, beyond which the sheep were not allowed to go. It was no small satisfaction to us to visit the scene of the famous battle which ended the career of JN'apo- leon, who at one time was the terror of all Europe, and who caused the death of several hundred thousand people and incalculable suffering. The question here decided was whether this monster should continue to oppress and impoverish Europe, or whether an end should be put to his domination. Few battles in mod- ern times had a more decisive result, Napoleon's career was here ended as completely as was that of his nephew, Napoleon III., on the battlefield of Sedan on September 2, 1870. Antwerp (Antwerpen in German and An vers in Freneh) is situated 27 miles north of Brussels, and 60 miles from the North Sea. It is one of the principal seaports of Europe. What Liverpool is to England, that Antwerp is to Belgium. The population is about 114 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. 350,000. There are over 15,000 Dutch and 9,000 Germans here. The balance of the population is al- most entirely Flemish. The history of Antwerp extends back to the sev- enth century. In 836 it was destroyed by the North- men, but was afterwards rebuilt and gradually became an important and prosperous city. It is said that in the middle of the sixteenth century it was the most prosperous and wealthy city in Europe, not excepting Genoa and Venice. Its decline commenced soon after this period and was due principally to Spanish oppres- sion. Thousands of the best citizens were banished be- cause of their Protestant religion. In 1576 the city was pillaged by the Spanish soldiers, the central part of it burned down, and 7,000 citizens killed. For the average tourist probably the most interest- ing place in Antwerp is the Roman Catholic cathedral, the largest and most beautiful Gothic church in Bel- gium. Its erection was commenced in 1352, and dif- ferent parts were erected at various dates, but it is still unfinished. There are two towers, but only one steeple is completed, which is over 400 feet high and contains a chime of 99 bells. The second one may not be erected for, a long time. In 1533 the church was seri- ously damaged by fire. During a religious riot in Antwerp, which occurred in 1556, the frenzied people tore every picture from the walls of the church and overturned every statue. In 1794 the French Republicans greatly damaged the building. The church is 384 feet long, 212 feet wide and 130 feet high, and covers an area of 70,000 square feet. ANTWERP. 115 (The Cologne cathedral covers 66,600 square feet ; St. PauPs, in London, 84,000; St. Peter's, at Rome, 162,- 000.) 125 pillars support the roof. The most inter- esting objects in the building are Rubens' famous paint- ings, the "Elevation of the Cross,'' executed in 1610, and the " Descent from the Cross," painted in 1611-12. These two paintings are among the few most famous pictures in the world, and they attract many thousands of strangers to Antwerp, who otherwise would not go there. Rubens painted the latter picture soon after his return from Italy, where he had spent eight years, and while he was still under the influence of the master, Michael Angelo. Both pictures make the scenes rep- resented exceedingly real and hold the spectator spell- bound for a long time. They are the greatest of all of Rubens' paintings. He died on May 30, 1640, at Ant- werp, and was buried with great pomp in St. Jacques' at and learned Reformer, Erasmus of Holland. His tombstone bears a long inscription in Latin. The house in which he died in 1536 is still shown. It is located at 18 Baumleingasse. Before him it had been occupied by Johann Froben, a well-known printer, from 1460 to 1527. Oecolampadius, another leading reformer, is also buried here. The Miinster was originally a Catholic church. In 1431 the Great Cooucil commenced its sessions here. It consisted of some 500 clericals, including many noted digoitaries, whose purpose was a " Eeformation of the Church in head and members,^' but after a long debate nothing was accomplished, and the Council was dis- solved. Another interesting church is St. Martin's. The reformer Oecolampadius preached in this church, which was formerly also Catholic. In 1529 some Protestants entered the church and demolished the altars and images. This caused a disturbance between 182 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the two parties. Nearly all the Catholics resided in Little Basel, across the river. The Reformed were vic- torious in the contest, and the City Council and the University b6came Reformed. Oecolampadius became the successor of the Bishop of Basel, the Catholics re- moved across the river, and Basel has ever since been Reformed. St. Martin's church is of interest from the fact that Ulric Zwingli came to it as a teacher in its school when he was eighteen years of age. Here occurred the crisis in his life. He had been brought up a Catholic. Thomas Wittenbach, a teacher of Greek, started Zwingli in the study of the Bible, and he did this so thoroughly that it is stated he could repeat whole books of the New Testament. Wittenbach implanted in young Zwingli^s heart the truth that not the Roman Church, but Jesus Christ saves people from their sins. It is claimed that here Zwingli got the start which led to his breaking away from the Church of Rome. The most beautiful modern house of worship is the Reformed St. Elizabeth church, which was ei^ected in 1857-65 at a cost of $800,000 by Christopher Merion and his wife Margaret (born Burckhart). There is also a parsoiiage and a school house included in the magnifi- cent gift. The church is after the cathedral style, but without transepts, and is constructed of sandstone. Ten massive pillars support the brick ceiling and the copper- covered roof. There are beautiful windows with rep- resentations of the three Wise Men from the East, the Crucifixion, the Resurrection, the Angel with the Shep- herds, the Burial of Jesus and the Women at the Grave. Singularly there are three pulpits in this BASEL. 183 church — one of stone ; a second one of wood, which was introduced on account of defective acoustics, and a third one for catechetical purposes. In this respect there may not be another Reformed church like this one. 218 steps lead to the top of the beautiful steeple, 232 feet high, from which a splendid view of Basel and surroundings is afforded. It is the highest point in the city. The tower contains four bells and a fine clock. The seating capacity of the church is 1,400. There are about the same number of members in the congregation and an equal number of children. The Gothic entrance to the church is beautiful. There is a fine organ on the gallery. A second beautiful modern church is St. PauPs, erected in 1898-1 901, at a cost of $250,000. The church is not very large, but beautiful throughout. Its tower contains a set of chimes. It is located in the north- western section of the city in an open place. The con- gregation is old and very large, some 30,000 souls being connected with it, with four ministers. There are two churches and two chapels belonging to the flock, j^ s in the case of the Catholics the Reformed here include all the members of a family in the church statistics. The sexton informed us that many of the families have from 10 to 12 children. Two monuments attracted our attention. The Mon- ument of St. Jacob was erected in 1872 in mem- ory of the heroism and death of 1,300 Swiss who opposed the French and Austrians on August 26, 1444. This inscription is on the monument : " Unsere Seelen dem Herrn ; unsere Leiber den Feinden.'' (Our souls to the Lord ; our bodies to our enemies.) The 184 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. other monument is in memory of the substantial aid which Switzerland gave to the aged and women and children of Strassburg during and after the siege of 1870. There are several museums and Picture Galleries in Basel. One of them contains a large collection of paintings by Hans Holbein the Younger, a noted artist (born in 1497 in Augsburg; died in 1543 in London), who lived at two different times in Basel. The collec- tion of paintings and curiosities in these several places is large. The old " Barfusser " church of the four- teenth century is now used as a historical museum. Among its curiosities is a series of famous wall paint- ings entitled " Dance of Death.'^ Here death is rep- resented as coming to persons in nearly all stations of life. The grim visitor, represented by a skeleton, leaps about those whom it is calling away ; hence the title " Dance of Death '^ is appropriate. Death comes to the pope, the king, the queen, the duke, all kinds of officials in Church and State, the cook, the farmer, the cripple, etc., but no one is willing to go. Dismay is depicted on the faces of all. The pope and other high church officials seem to be the most unwilling to depart. Of all called upon to follow Death only one expressed his readiness to go, and this is a blind man who is being led about by a dog tied to a rope. Death cuts the rope, and the poor man is entirely helpless. He exclaims : " Thank God that my hour has come." Death snatches away the crutch of a eripple, and grabs a Jew by his long beard. This group of paintings is interesting and impressive. Many years ago a friend presented me with an old German picture book entitled " Todes Tanz." It is BASEL. 185 «tated that the pictures are copies of those in Basel mentioned above. Until recently I never expected to see these pictures. Now this book has a far greater value to me than ever before. The University of Basel was founded in 1459. It now has some 70 professors and 350 students. During the Reformation period this university was a central point of spiritual life, numbering among its professors such famous men as Erasmus and Oecolampadius, both of whom are buried in the Miinster of Basel. The seminary has half a dozen professors and about 100 students. In the university library there are 250,000 volumes and 4,000 manuscripts. The latter date mostly from the Council of Basel and the Reformation. On June 24, 1910, the 450th anniversary of the Basel University was celebrated in the presence of many former professors and students. On this occa- sion the citizens of Basel contributed over $66,000 to endow a fund for the benefit of living descendants of professors of the university. Mr. Geigy-Merion also gave $50,000 for the remodelling of the univeroity building. One of the most interesting institutions in the city is the Basel Mission House, belonging to the largest and oldest foreign missionary society in Europe. It is a long four-story building and is located just outside the Spalen Thor, the finest of the remaining gates of the city. The society was started as a thank-offering to the Lord for saving the city from bombardment in 1815. Here young men are being prepared for the foreign field. The society has missions in India, China and Africa. Its receipts are the largest of any society 13 186 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. in Europe, being some $250,000 per year. As a rule the missionaries are also mechanics, so that they may be able to teach various trades to the people in pagan countries. This is an excellent plan. In a certain place the converts, who had been taught weaving, pro- duced 100,000 yards of cloth in a year. The Mission House iucludes a museum, which contains numerous interesting relics, such as idols, implements of war, household utensils, etc. Among the street scenes in Basel are many women attending market in open places. They occupy them- selves with knitting while waiting for customers. Zurich (in Swiss Ziirch) is the largest and most important city in Switzerland, with a population of about 190,000. It is located at the northern end of Lake Zurich and on both sides of the rapid river Lim- met, which flows out from the lake. It is the centre for silk and cotton mills. Here we for the first time saw the snow-capped Alps in the distance. In the year 58 before Christ, Zurich fell under the sway of the Romans, as did the other places in Switzerland. The city united with the Swiss Confederacy in 1351. From an early date Zurich was the intellectual leader of Switzerland. As the home of Ulric Zwingli from 1519 to 1531 it was the centre of the Reformation in the republic. Its schools have always been famous for the men it produced. Among these were Hottinger, Lavater, Pestalozzi, etc. There are fine monuments to Zwingli and Pestalozzi. In the older part of the city the streets are narrow and the houses lofty, which con- veys the appearance of a city of the Middle Ages. ZURICH. 187 Perhaps the most interesting building in Zurich is the Miinster or Cathedral, which was erected in the eleventh and thirteenth centuries. This is the church in which the noted Swiss reformer, Ulric Zwingli, preached from 1519 to 1531. It has two towers. In one of them is a statue of Charlemagne, the famous Roman emperor, who frequently resided in Zurich and gave large gifts to the church. Zwino^ii came here in 1519 from Einsiedlen, where he had commenced preaching the gospel. He met with a hearty reception from the first. Tlie church was crowded whenever he preached. His pieachiog was so diiferent from that of the Roman priests. He declared : ** It is to Christ I wish to guide you ; to Christ, the true source of salvation." The priests had been direct- ing the people to the Virgin Mary. No wonder the people heard Zwingli gladly. He preacbt d not only on Sunday, but also on market days to the people from the country. He made a deep impressioD. In 1523 the City Council directed that the church service should be conducted according to the Scriptures. Gradu- ally the Lord^s Supper was substituted for the Romish Mass. Compared with most Catholic churches the interior of this Miinster is rather plain. Tiie windows contain figures of Christ, Peter and Paul. The pulpit is at the side, and the organ of 3,000 pipes on a iolty gallery. About 15,000 souls, including children ^ belong to the Miinster, which has two pastors Revs. Fiusler and Jozi. The baptizmal font is 300 years oki At No. 4 Zwingliplatz is the parsonage which was occupied by Henry Bullingf:r, and in the rear of the church stands the house occupied by Zwingli from 1622 to 1524. 188 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. lu this church the people learned to revere the Word of God, and to this day they stand whilst the Word is being read in the church service. In Zurich Zwingli performed his life-work. He not only preached the pure gospel, but also served as counsellor for the civil government, just as John Calvin did in Geneva. It was during a most trying period, when the Catholics of Switzerland were arrayed in arms against the Eeformed. Zwingli gave not only his talents, bat also his life to the cause of evangelical truth. It was whilst Zwingli was pastor at Zurich that he met his untimely and tragic death on October 11, 1531. The Catholic army of 8,000 men made a sud~ den move toward Zurich ; and the citizens, with Zwingli as their chaplain, went out to meet them. In the battle at Cappel the Refortned or Protestants were completely defeated and Zwingli was killed. His last words werie : " They may kill the body, but they cannot kill the soul." The body of Zwiagli was burned by his enemies and the ashes cast to the winds. Zwingli was killed^ but the cause for which he contended and died went on and lives to-day. The great Reformer died under a p ar tree, and there stands such a tree at the place to-day. Whenever the tree dies, another one is planted in its place. Where Zwiugli died, there stands a monument to his memory. The defeat of the Protestants Avas the result of long inactivity on their part. Zwingli had earnestly urged the people of Zurich to prepare for de- feuce, but they did not think there was any danger until it was too late. St. Peters church is a fine building, with a massive tower and a large electric clock, the dial of which is ZURICH. 189 twenty-nine feet in diameter. In this church Lavater preached for 23 years, until 1801, when he was cruelly wounded by a French soldier while succoring^ the wounded in the streets of Zurich, when the city was captured by Massena on Sept. 26, 1799. He died from the wound on Jan. 2, 1801. Lavater was a truly good man. Goethe said of him : " He is the best, greatest, wisest and sincerest man I ever knew.^' Lavater is buried close to the northern wall of the church. The City Library is in the former Wasser Kirche (water cliurch), so called because it once stood in the water. No services have been held here since the Reformation. It is said that in 312 three citizens were beheaded on a little island, upon which spot this church was erected as a memorial to them. The library in this place is large and interesting, comprising over 160,000 volumes and 4,500 manuscripts. Here is a copy of the first book printed in Switzerland, 1470 ; letters from Schiller, Goethe and Frederick the Great ; three letters of Zwingli to his wife; a letter of Henry lY. of France ; three letters in Latin of Lady Jane Grey to Rev. Bullinger; letters of John Calvin, Leo Juda, Peter Martyr, etc.; portraits of Zwingli and Bullinger; epistles of Paul, copied by Zwingli ; first New Testa- ment published in Switzerland, translated by Luther in 1523; first French Bible printed in Switzerland in 1535; a model of Zwingli's house at Wildhaus; a pic- ture of Zwingli^s death at Cappel. One of the most interesting books is Zwingli's Bible of 1518, printed at Venice. The New Testa- ment is in Greek, and there are many notes in his own handwriting. Zwingli knew whole books of the New 190 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Testament by heart, which gave him great power in his disputatioDS. But a still more interestiog volume is the Bible which Zwingli and Leo Juda translated. The Reformed Cimrch can boast that her Swiss Bible was the first Protestant version, for it was commenced in 1524 and completed in 1529, whilst Luther^s Ger- man translation was completed only in 1534. The fact is that more than six editions of the Swiss Bible were published before Lather's was completed. Near this museum stands a fine bronze statue of Zwingli. The university is also an interesting place. From it we had a fine view of the city, the lake and the Alps. It was founded in 1832, and includes a theological semi- nary with six professors and 100 students. The uni- versity has over 100 professors and lecturers, and 1,300 students. The Swi<^s National Museum contains the most im- portant collection in Switzerland of historical and in- dustrial objects from prehistoric days to the present time. Its collection of stained glass windows is said to be the best in the world. / In the city arsenal are preserved Zwingli's battle axe, sword, coat of mail and helmet. Among the street scenes in Zurich we saw a num- ber of women who plied their occupation as shoe-shiners. We had never before seen women thus employed. Lucerne, a town of 37,000 people, is most beauti- fully situated at the northwestern point of Lake Lu- cerne, where the swift river Reuss issues from the lake. This beautiful sheet of water is also called " Vierwald- statter-See," because its shores touch the four forest cantons of Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Lucerne. LUCERNE. 191 The city is still enclosed by a well-preserved wall, erected in 1385, with nine watch-towers. From here a fine view is aiforded of the mountains Rigi, Pilatus, and the snow-clad Alpine peaks of Uri and Engelberg. Here is an example of the deceptiveness of distance in this country. These mountains appear to be quite close to the town, whilst they are many miles away. Lake Lucerne*has many interesting historic associa- tions. It was on the shore of this lake that the three men StauflPacher, Fiirst and Melchthai^ — met in 1307 and solemnly vowed to free their country from Austrian oppression. The events in the life of William Tell are also connected with the lake. The two sections of the town are connected by seven bridges over the river Reuss. Two of these bridges are of great interest, both on account of their age and their peculiar construction. These are the Kappell bridge and the Spreuer bridge. These two bridges date from the Middle Ages, and are therefore very old. Both are constructed of wood and rest upon wooden posts in the water. They are very low, being apparently only a few feet above the water, and lead obliquely across the stream. Again, both are only foot bridges, no vehicles crossing them. Both bridges are covered and right un- der the roof in triangular form are many paintings. In the Kappell bridge are 154 scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the patron saints of Lu- cerne, and from the history of the town. In the Spreuer bridge are paintings representing the '* Dance of Death " described on page 184. All these paintings date from the eighteenth cen- tury. They are old and some rather indistinct. Being 192 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. exposed to the changes of the atmosphere, it is a wonder that they have not been entirely ruined. We examined these peculiar paintings as we crossed the bridge slowly. Adjoining the Kappell bridge in the centre of the river stands the Water Tower, which contains the ar- chives of the town. Tradition tells us that this build- ing was once a lighthouse (Jwern^) and that the name Lucerne is derived from it. These Lucerners in a general way know how to make money from the tourists. On the fourth of July the Americans celebrated Independence Day with a banquet. One of the speakers jokingly remarked that "Switzerland's greatest industry was the import of Americans with full pockets and their export with empty pockets." Lucerne gets an ever-increasing share of this profitable business. To this city came 7,142 Americans and Canadians in July, 1910, over a thou- sand more than in the previous July. The Hofkirche (court church) is said to have been founded in the eighth century. In 1633 it was de- stroyed by fire, but rebuilt. It has two towers, which were erected in 1506. Inside there is a carved pulpit which is quite artistic. The stained glass windows are very old. Valuable works of the twelfth century are preserved in the treasury. One of the churches bears the unique name of Bar- fiisser (Barefooter's) church. There is a church with a similar name in Basel, but it is now used as a museum. One of the interesting objects of Lucerne is the fa- mous Lion Monument in memory of the 26 of&cers and 760 soldiers of the Swiss Guard who fell in defending the Tuilleries of Paris on Aug. 10, 1792. The lion is LUCERNE. 19S 28 feet loDg and was cut out of a solid sandstone rock on a mountain side by the Danish sculptor Thorwaldsen. During the winter the lion is boarded up to protect it against the action of the weather. This peculiar mon- ument attracts many sight- seers. We found many visitors there when we viewed it. Another very interesting place in Lucerne is the Glacier Garden near the Lion Monument. This is a rocky place which must have been at some time at the foot of a high mountain. There are a number of so- called glacier mills. The water from melted ice and snow rushed down the mountain sides with such force as to form basins in the rocks below, and in these basins large stones were whirled around until deep circular holes had been worn into the rocks. The place was discovered in 1872. It is rather difficult to realize that the large kettles in the solid rocks can have been formed in the way stated, but the process is illustrated by means of an artificial glacier mill in actual operation at the side of a hill. My doubts about the reality of glacier mills were completely dissipated by this artificial demon- stration. A glacier mill is one of the wonders of nature. Nearby is a Labyrinth — a place in which a large number of mirrors are so arranged as to produce a most confusing effect. One imagines he sees many persons, whilst it is only his own form duplicated many times. Our party of four seemed to be fifty people. And in trying to pass along one constantly runs against the mirrors. It is almost impossible to find the way out. One thinks : " Oh, this is the way," and in an instant his face is against the mirror. 194 RAMBLES IN EUEOPE. In the Glacier Garden there is a model of a Swiss cottage, with this incription on the front : ''So Jemaod war auf dieser Erde, Der alien Leuten recht thun kanu, So bitt' ich ihn in alien Ehren, Dass er mich diese KuDst mocht lehren/' The oldest building in Lucerne is the ancient " Rathhaus ^^ (council building), which was erected in 1519-1605. It was thoroughly restored in 1905-8. There are a number of quaint and picturesque houses of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries in the crooked streets of the older part of the town. But here, as elsewhere, I was surprised at the many fine modern buildings. One of the interesting places in Lucerne is the Pano- rama of the French army in Switzerland during the war between France and Germany in 1870-71. The army of the East, under Gen. Bourbaki, after having lost 10,000 men, was by the German army under Gen. von Werder driven into neutral Switzerland, where it was disarmed. Bourbaki attempted to commit suicide. This occurred in February, 1871. The Swiss army ap- peared and took possession of the frontier. The poor, dispirited French soldiers built numerous camp fires to keep warm in midwinter. There was snow on the ground. Many horses fell dead of starvation. The generous Swiss people brought food for the hungry soldiers, women carrying large baskets upon their heads. The place where this event occurred is near Geneva. All the incidents are shown in the panorama. The lec- turer stated that the French army thus surrendering to the Swiss numbered 80,000, but this seems like an ex- aggeration. CHAPTER XIIL -SWITZERLAND (Continued). Farm Building's. - Bern, the Capital.— Town Clock.— Pos- tal Union Monument.— Geneva.— John Calvin's Work. St. Peter's Cathedral.— Calvin's Academy. University.— Servetus.—Simplon Pass. HE way from Lucerne to Bern leads up through numerous railroad tunnels to what is known as the Bernese Ober- iand. The country has a romantic ap- pearance. In Switzerland the peasants live on their farms, instead of in vil- lages, as in many other countries. We were impressed with their peculiar houses. On each farm there is only one building, which serves as house, barn, chicken- house and pig sty. Many of these buildings are quite large and substantial. I used to think that this style of buildings belonged to former ages, but new farm buildings are erected after the same style. The family quarters are at one end of the building, whilst the horses, cattle, pigs and chickens are housed in the other parts, together with the farm products. No doubt the arrangement has its good features, otherwise the people would not hold on to it so tenaciously. It is no doubt convenient in rainy weather and in winter, but for sani- tation it does not seem to recommend itself. Farm buildings of the same kind are also found in many parts of Germany and Austria. In the village of Ober Am- mergau, the home of the Passion Play, many of the buildings are of this sort. The farmers were engaged in making hay. They had much trouble to dry the grass on account of fre- 196 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. quent rains. In this region the farms are more gener- erally fenced than in many other sections. As we pass along the valleys of this mountainous region we see many small cataracts. Most of the railroad stations bear names which seem very peculiar to us. The Swiss are fund of flowers. Many humble homes are adorned with beautiful flower beds, which gives them a pleasing appearance. Sometimes after passing through a barren region the train stops at a little station surrounded by beautiful flower beds. In Switzerland no mowing ma- chines are employed. The farmers cut their grass with scythes and their grain mostly with sickles. The hay and grain are conveyed from the fields by donkeys or oxen. In some hilly places the fruits of the earth are carried home on the backs of donkeys. The loads completely cover the little animals ; one sees only their legs moving. Bern is the capital of Switzerland and the finest city in the country. It is situated in a loop of the river Aare, being surrounded by it on three sides. There are several bridges spanning the Aare, one of them an im- posing modern iron structure 751 feet long. About 80,000 people live in the city. The name " Bern '' ap- pears to have been derived from bear. Bern is a kind of bear city. In the shop- windows toy bears are offered for sale, numerous figures of bears appear as architec- teciural ornaments, and in two large pits in the eastern end of the city living bears have been kept at public expense for several centuries. One of the prominent objects in the city is the famous Bear Clock. It is lo- cated in an old tower which was the western gate of the old town, but now is in the centre of the city. The BERN. 197 clock strikes the quarter hours. At the fourth quarter a large bell strikes the hour. Just before this time a rooster makes his appearance and crows, after which a group of bears come out of the tower and march around the figure of a man, which then reverses an hour glass. The cock crows once more, and the performance is over, to be repeated every hour. This clock is a remarkable piece of mechanism, but is not as large as the great clock in the cathedral at Strassburg. Bern was founded in 1191, and became independent of the Austrians in 1218. In 1288 this city had be- come strong enough to resist successfully two sieges of the Austrians, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the Burguodian noble at the battle of Laupen. In 1353 Bern joined the Swiss Confederation. In 1528 the people of Bern accepted the Eeformed doctrines. Ulric Zwingli, the Swiss Reformer, at the early age of thirteen came to Bern to study. He was then already a fine musician. Tfiirty years later Zwingli came again to Bern, but then as a leader of the Reforma- tion. A Oonference or Disputation was held in the city in 1528 between Catholics and Reformers. The Refor- mation had already a firm foothold in the city. About one hundred ministers, priests and theologians attended. Zwingli was the Reformed leader. He preached every day iu the cathedral on the twelve articles of the Apostles' Creed and made a profound impression. He showed that the Roman doctrines were clearly at vari- ance with the teachings of the Scriptures. During one of his sermons a Roman priest was converted and pub- licly laid aside his priestly robes and declared that he would never again celebrate the Mass. As a result of 198 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. this Conference the Reformation was fully accepted by the people who have ever since held firmly to the Re- formed Church. At present nearly all the people of Bern are Reformed. There are a number of high points in the city which afford magnificent views, not only of Bern, but of the surrounding country to a great distance, includ- ing the Bernese Alps. One of these places is called Kleine Schanze and another Grosse Schanze. {Schanze means a '^ place of defence.'^) Near the Kleine Schanze stands a fine monument in commemoration of the Uni- versal Postal Union, which has its headquarters in this city. In the centre is a large globe, and around it are figures representing the several nations belonging to the Union. The handS; of these figures touch each other, and they pass letters one to the other. The idea is beautiful and appropriate. The government buildings are of good size and occupy a conspicuous pSace. We inspected the capitol, in which the National Congress of Switzerland holds its sessions. The building of course does not compare in size with the capitol of the United States, or many of the American state houses. But it is a beautiful struc- ture, with a fine, large dome and a grand marble stair- case. The chambers of the two houses are finely fur- nished. They are not large, because the national body is small. The upper house is embellished with a fine painting representing " The Cradle of the Confedera- tion" — the Lake of Lucerne. Congress meets four times each year. At the entrance to the capitol stand two colossal figures of bears. During the sessions of Congress three languages are spoken — German, French BERN. 19^ and Italian. This would seem to be confusing. Un- less the members are familiar with all three languages they must be at a disadvantage. Immediately in front of the eapitol building there is an open market place. Here all kinds of vegetables and fruit are sold, almost exclusively by women. One lady was selling vegetables from a baby-coach. The fruit in Switzerland and Italy is remarkably large and fine. Such large cherries I had never seen. The Miinster or Cathedral is a large, old building, 285 feet long, 118 feet wide and 77 feet high. It was commenced in 1421 and completed in 1598. The choir stalls are adorned with figures of Christ and the Apostles, Moses and the Prophets. A monument in the church contains the names of 702 Bernese citizens who fell in a battle with the French on March 5, 1798. The church contains a famous organ with 60 stops, erected in 1 849. 250 steps lead up into the tower, which contains seven bells on two floors. The largest bell dates from 1611, and weighs 2,670 pounds. The church has 1,500 sit- tings. There are three ministers who are paid by the State. There is only one service on a Sunday, in the forenoon. On Wednesday evening they have ^* Bibel- stunde," which is similar to an American prayer meeting. There are five Reformed churches in Bern. The Catholics have two. The University of Bern was founded in 1834, and has some 1,900 students. Its library includes 200,000 volumes, besides 1,000 newspapers and other periodi- cals in its reading room. The university is housed in a fine modern building. In the streets of Bern there are a number of public fountains, which are surmounted by figures. One of 2U0 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. these fountains bears the name of " Kindlifresser," be- cause its figure is that of a very large ogre in the act of swallowing a little child. Strange idea ! The city has a number of museums. The Histori- cal Museum contains the original manuscript of the famous German national hymn '^Die Wacht am Rhein." There are numerous paintings in the Art Museum, and in the Natural History Museum many speciaiens of geology, skeletons, animals, etc. Bern is the most regularly laid out city in the coun- try, and is regarded as the most beautiful in the little mountain republic. It derives its importance princi- pally from the fact of its being the capital of the coun- try. Many European names strike Americans strangely. One of the streets of Bern is called " Gerechtigkeits- gasse '^ (Righteousness street). Another street is named *^ Christolfelgasse." One of the peculiarities of Bern consists in the fact that along the main street in the old section of the city the upper stories of the houses extend over the pavements. This arrangement protects people against the weather, but it makes the stores rather dark. These arcades are called " Lauben.'^ A similar ar- rangement exists in Chester, England. At the centre of the trolly system stands a fine monument to Adrian von Bubenberg, the brave defender of Morat against Charles the Bold. Nearby is the Church of the Holy Ghost, a fine building erected in 1727-29. A little south of Bern is the town of Freiburg, which contains a noted organ that is capable of imi- tating the human voice almost to perfection. Its tones are said to be very touching. GENEVA. 201 On our way from Bern to Geneva we had pointed out to us the pass in the Jura Mountains in the west throagh which Napoleon in 1800 led his army iato Switzerland on his way to Italy. From Lausanne our train sped along Lake Geneva for a long distance. We came to Geneva on a Saturday evening and spent a number of days there very pleasantly. Geneva (German Genf) is one of the largest cities in Switzerland. Including the suburbs it has a popu- lation of over a hundred thousand. Situated at the extreme southwestern part of Lake Geneva, it lies near ,the border of France, where the swift blue waters of the river Rhone emerge fromthe lake, and a short dis- tance above the confluence of the rivers Rhone and Arve. Originally a Gallic towUj one hundred years before the birth of Christ it came under Roman au- thority. Afterwards it was subject to different states. With the aid of Freiburg and Bern Geneva in 1526 achieved its independence from Savoy. At this time two parties were formed in the town. One of these were the ^^ Eidgenossen " (Confederates), pronounced by the French *'' Higuenos," from which the name Huguenots was derived. The other party were tbe Mamelukes. There was much discord between these parties, because the Mamelukes favored the House of Savoy. The ac- ceptance of Protestantism by Geneva soon ended the alliance with Freiburg, and Geneva was again exposed to attacks from Savoy. In 1536 Geneva was once more isaved from Savoy by the intervention of Bern, John Calvin, the great French Reformer, came to Geneva in the summer of the same year (1536) and commenced the work of reforming the political as well as the re- 14 202 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Jigious life of the people, and the city became one of the chief strongholds of Protestantism. In 1602 the last attempt of the Duke of Savoy to recover Geneva was frustrated by the citizens. The French revolution brought on a new crisis. In July, 1794, the government was overthrown and a reign of terror followed. In 1798 Geneva and its ter- ritory were united to France, but in 1814, after the over- throw of Napoleon," the city regained its independence^ and then united with the Swiss Confederation as the twenty-second canton. On the eastern bank of the river, in the old part of the city, in a small park, standi a national monument in commemoration of this event. It consists of two large female figures. Formerly the city was walled. Since 1847 the city has been almost entirely rebuilt in modern style. The old ramparts have been removed, and the streets widened and paved. John Calvin came to Geneva under peculiar circum- stances. After the tragic death of Zwingli in 1531, William Farel was the principal leader of the Swiss Reformation. Calvin had been driven out of France,^ his native country, because he preached the new doc- trines. He had fled to Italy, but, now on his way to Germany, he spent a night at Geneva in 1535, and that night proved a turning-point in his life. Calvin and Fiirel met. The latter had been looking for a man ta preach the gospel in Geneva, and he now believed that Calvin was that man. He had heard of Calvin^s fame through his great work entitled " Institutes of the Christian Religion.'^ He appealed to Calvin to remain in Geneva, using every possible means of persuasion, but Calvin would not consent, pleading poor health and JOHN CALVIN^S WORK. 203 other excuses. Finally Farel, lifting his hand toward heaven, said : " In the name of Almighty God I de- clare that, if you will not answer this summons, He will not bless your plans." And then, fixing his eyes of fire on the young man, and placing his hand upon his head, cried out : " May God curse your repose, may God curse your studies, if in such a great necessity you withdraw and refuse to give us help and support." Calvin could not resist such an appeal. He after- wards said : ^^ It was as if God had seized me with His awful hand from heaven." He remained at Geneva and at once ientered upon the work of reforming the city religiously, socially and politically. It was not natural to expect that all would fall into line with his measures. For many these were too radical. Calvin was a stern man. After three years (in 1538) he was driven out, and went to Strassburg. However, three years later, in 1641, the people of Geneva saw their error and were glad to call Calvin back. He returned and labored here for twenty-five years until his death. It was mainly through his efforts that Geneva became a model city. Calvin died on May 27, 1564. He liad long suf- fered from poor health, bu. continued his work as long as possible. His last days were spent in prayer. He gathered the ministers to his bedside and spoke words of cheer and comfort to them. He was buried in what is now an old cemetery at Plain Palais, in the western part of the city. Our party visited his grave, conducted to the spot by one of the keepers. Calvin had forbid- den the erection of any kind of monument. The only mark at his grave is a small stone containing the letters 204 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. " J. C' Here under a large spruce tree in a lonely place rest the remains of this great and influential man. For us one of the most interesting places in Geneva was St. Peter^s cathedral in the old part of the city. This is the church in which John Calvin preached so long with great power. The church is very old, dating from the tenth century. It was altered in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and recently restored thor- oughly. In the eighteenth century a Corinthian portico was added, but it is generally considered that this only disfigured the building. The church was of course originally Catholic, of which fact it bears many inter- nal evidences, the old CathoUc arrangements having been allowed to remain. There are a number of graves and monuments of famous men in the church. Calvin's chair still stands under the pulpit. Each of our party sat in it. A number of large old tombstones stand against the wall of the church. About a thousand members belong to this parish. There are four pastors. Connected with the cathedral is the Chapel of the Mac- cabe< s, in which marriages and baptisms are perfornied. St Peter's is a very plain affair in comparison with many Catholic churches, in which much attention is given to the spectacular. Alongside St. Peter's cathe- dral is a small church, which contains the old pulpit from which Calvin preached many years. John Knox also preached here in 1554 and 1556. A short distance to the west, but still under the shadow of the church, we found the place where Calvin lived. It is at No. 11 Calvin street, but the old house has been replaced by a newer one. A tablet on the wail reads thus : " The house of John Calvin on JOHN CALVIN^S WORK. 205 this site was demolished in 1706 and a new one erected in exact reproduction of the original.'^ It is a plain, unpretentious house. Here lived the great Reformer in humble circumstances. Calvin was a very gifted man. He was only about 26 years of age when he wrote his great work '^ insti- tutes of the Christian Religion/^ and died at the age of 55 years. This great work was written in Latin. Sub- quently it was greatly enlarged by Calvin^ and has since been translated into French, German, English, Dutch, Himgarian, Italian, Spanish, Greek and Arabic, a fact which indicates the great popularity of the work. We also visited the old building in which Calvin in 1559 established his academy at Geneva. This insti- tution was an important factor in the Reformation, In 1873 the academy was converted into a university. In July, 1909, a great Reformation Festival was held in Geneva, which was attended by numerous graduates of the school founded by Calvin, They put up a brass tablet upon the original school building with this in- scription : " Erected by the graduates of the school in commemoration of the Reformation Festival of July 5, 1909." The inscription is in French and we had a little trouble to find some one to translate it for us. Calvin lectured in the academy on theological subjects. It is said that often one thousand students attended his lectures. Another place of interest in Geneva is Reformation Hall, containing a large lecture>hall. One room is the Calvinium, containing numerous memorials of Calvin, a model of the city of Jerusalem and many curiosities. We also visited the fine buildings of the University of Geneva, into which Calvin^s Academy was devel- 206 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. oped. The buildings are large and fine. The library, founded about the middle of the sixteenth century, con- tains 150 000 volumes and 1,500 manuscripts. There are many objects of interest. Here is a French Bible printed at Geneva in 1588, richly bound in red morocco, designed by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., king of France, but never presented to him, because he renounced Protestantism ; a very large Latin Bible used in St. Peter's cathedral in the sixteenth century ; letters of Napoleon Bonaparte, Henry IV., Beza, Bul- linger, Calvin ; beautifully illuminated books in manu- script ; scroll of Greek Liturgy of St. Ohrysostom ; Book of Esther in Hebrew ; painting of Calvin on his death-bed, giving i parting counsel to ministers and others; numerous portraits of Calvin; wax tablets of 1308 for keeping accounts, etc. The university has 70 professors and about 1100 students. In July of 1909 the four hundredth anniversary of the birth of John Calvin was celebrated in Geneva. It was attended by many Protestants of note from many parts. At this festival steps were taken for the erection of a grand Reformation monument immediately to the north of the university in Geneva. The background of the monument will be the " Wall of the Reforma- tion," which was erected in the sixteenth century as a protection against the enemies of the Reformation. A tablet in the wall indicates the spot where the monument will be erected. We found it in a beautiful part of the old Botanical Garden. This monument will be an elaborate affair. A central group of figures will repre- sent the Reformers Calvin, Farel, Knox and Beza. On the sides will be figures of Coligny, of France ; Wil- GREEK CHURCH. 207 liam the Silent, of Holland ; Oliver Cromwell, of Eng- land ; Frederick William, of Brandenburg, and Roger Williams. There is a Greek or Russian church in Geneva, which is the most costly church for its size which I have ever seen. A vast deal of gold was used in its construction. The building, neither on the outside nor inside, looks much like a church. There are five gilded domes, but all are low. They are richly adorned. The man in charge gave us this information : Confession is obligatory. There are only about two dozen chairs for the use of aged and infirm persons. Other persons stand or kneel during the service of one and one-half hours' duration. The church is small, but most richly furnished, the adornments having been presented by the imperial family of Russia. The cost of the church, exclusive of furnishings, and not including the lot, which was donated, was $400,000. The internal ar- rangements remind one more of a lodge room than a church. There is a small room, the holy of holies, where only the priests may enter. On Easter 300 per- sons crowd into the main rooai, which seems to hold only about 150. There are about 2,800 Russians in Geneva. 2,000 of them are indiiferent to religion, and among: these are some anarchists. At the time of our visit the coffined corpse of a young man lay on a bier in the church. It is customary to place the dead in the church some time before funerals. The City Hall is of special interest to Americans from the fact that in this building a momentous ques- tion which arose during our Civil War was settled. The warship "Alabama" was built at Birkenhead, 208 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Ecgland, for the Confederates. This man-of war cap- tured or sank 65 Union vessels and destroyed property to the amount of $4,000,000. Our government claimed compensation from England for these damages. For a time this matter endangered the peace between the United States and England. It was finally referred to a commission of five persons, one of whom was ap- pointed by each of the governments of England, the United States, Italy, Switzerland and Brazil. This commission met in the city hall of Geneva and directed England to pay the United States the sum of over $16,- 000,000. During the time of Calvin church discipline in Ge- neva was very severe. Heresy was punished with death. A number of persons were executed for this cause. After Calvin had been called back to Geneva he set about thoroughly reforming the city, in which much wickedness prevailed. An ** ecclesiastical consti- tution -^ was drawn up by a commission, and finally ap- proved by the General Assembly of the city in No- vember, 1641. It was a kind of code of Blue Laws, like those of the Puritans in New England. Dancing, gaming, theatre-going, ribald songs, boisterous conduct, disrespect to the ministry were forbidden on pain of punishment. Church attendance, on Sunday as well as on week-days, the calling of the pastors to attend the sick within three days, household worship, etc, were strictly enjoined. Blasphemy and open licentiousness were severely punished. The new laws were very strict and Calvin was a stern disciplinarian. The people had willingly accepted the new constitution, and Calvin held them rigidly to it. In doing this he encountered SERVETUS. 209 fierce opposition. There was a class of irreligious people called Libertines, to whom Calvin refused the commu- nion in St, Peter's church. On one communion occasion a number of them presented themselves in the church and demanded the sacrament, but Calvin refused to give it to them and a riot ensued in the church. Michael Servetus was a French physician, who had come to Geneva. He had published a book in which he denied the divinity of Christ, and he was also a blas- phemer. He had been at Vienna, where the Catholics had condemned him to death, but he escaped. At Geneva he was arrested and tried. The trial continued two months, with some intervals. He poured the foulest epithets upon Calvin. Servetus was condemned to be burned at the stake. Calvin tried to prevent this form of execution, but failed. Servetus was burned near the city, together with his condemned book. Calvin has been severely blamed for this cruel act, but it was the law which condemned the heretic and blasphemer. The death of this man certainly looks cruel to us in our day, but in those critical times men like Servetus were con- sidered as public enemies, and the laws were severe. Such a thing could not happen now, either in Switzer- land or America. In 1903 a monument was erected to Servetus in Geneva, near the Canton Hospital, at a side of a hill where the road forks. We went to see it. It consists of a large, high, plain stone, bearing this inscription : "October, 27, 1553. September 29, 1511.'' The former date is the day of his execution ; the latter that of his birth. Servetus had also been in conflict with Luther, Oecolampadius, Bucer and others. 210 RAMBLES IN EUJROPE. One of the most beautiful parts of Geneva is along the lake. There is a wide street, with fine buildings on the west and the lake on the east. This is called the Quay, here as in other cities. From this prome- nade in clear weather may be seen the top of Mont Blanc, forty miles away toward the southeast. This interesting snow-capped landmark, which was pointed out to us, has an altitude of 15,782 feet, and is the highest: mountain in Europe. It is only about 150 years since men undertook to climb this mountain. Since then many have done so, and many others have lost their lives in the effort. Along this street is the " Kur- saal," a large and splendid theatre, said to rank next to those in Paris and Vienna. As we passed along here late on Sunday afternoon several thousand people came out of it. A little further on stands the elaborate Brunswick Monument to the memory of Duke Charjes II , who died in 1873 and bequeathed his property, about $5,000,000, to the city. Nearly all the business houses were open, as were also the numerous drinking places, but we saw no evidences of intemperancei' At the end of the lake, just where the river Rhone emerges from it, is the splendid Mont Blanc bridge, which is 840 feet long and connects the old and new parts of the city. Right below this bridge is a small island, upon which stands a bronze statue of Rousseau, a native of Geneva. We spent the fourth of July in Geneva. There were many American flags floating in the air. The American Consul gave a reception in the evening. But we had to turn our backs upon romantic Switz- erland and push on to Italy. From Geneva we went SIMPLON PASS. 211 back north along beautiful Lake Geneva to Lausanne, but did not stop at this place of over 50,000 people, of whom 86 per cent, are Reformed. The town has a fine marble monument to William Tell. Here Gib- bon, the great English historian, resided many years, and the house in which he wrote the greater part of his famous work, " The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire,'^ is still pointed out. Three-fourths of the people speak French. After passing Lausanne we turned eastward and southward toward Milan. For some distance we rode through an agricultural region. The farmers were en- gaged in harvesting. As we sped along, we noticed a little village high upon a mountain. Why should people live so far uphill ? It was an interesting sight. We now entered a mountainous region, from which we emerged only after we had entered Italy some distance. Our route was through the famous Simplon Pass over the Alpine mountains, which are 6,594 feet high. Napoleon constructed the Simplon Road over the moun- tain from Briegin Switzerland to Domodossola in Italy in 1800-06 at a cost of over three million dollars. The road leads over six hundred bridges. We did not pass over these mountains, but rather under and through them. From 1898 to 1905 an im- mense tunnel was dug through the mountains by Switz- erland and Italy. This tunnel is the longest in the world, measuring 12 J miles. (The Mont Cenis tunnel is 7f and the St. Gotthard tunnel 9 J miles long.) It re- quires almost half an hour for a train to pass through. The train was drawn through the tunnel by an electric engine, which emitted no smoke. The cost of construct- 212 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. ing this gigantic tunnel was nearly $15,000,000. A second tunnel is being dug only 60 feet from the first one. There will be communicating passages between the two every 670 feet. The construction of this tun- nel was a great engineering feat. Work was commenced at both ends, and, although the tunnel is over 12 miles long, the workmen came together precisely at the right place. But this is not the only tunnel on this line. Our train passed through some twenty five others between Lausanne and Milan. More than half the run from Isefle to Domodossola was through tunnels and cuttings. After emerging from the Simplon Tunnel at Iselle sta- tion, the Italian custom officials examined the baggage of passengers. The completion of the Simplon Tunnel facilitated traveling greatly. But man is never satisfied. Eiforts are now being made to cross the mountains in still an- other manner. On September 23, 1910, a Peruvian aviator, George Chavez, undertook to cross the Alps in an air ship from Brieg, Switzerland, to Milan, Italy, for $20,000, and he actually crossed the mountains. He had to rise 7,000 feet in the air and reached Domodos- sola, where he was obliged to descend. But when only thirty feet from the ground the machine collapsed and fell upon Chavez, who was so badly mangled that he died on September 27. However, in all probability the problem of traveling in the air will yet be solved. CHAPTER XIV.—ITALY, Milan.— Its Great Cathedral.— Other Churehes.- Pisa.— Naples. -Genoa. E are now in Italy. This country is a long peninsula between the Mediterra- nean and the Adriatic Seas. It is 710 miles long, and its breadth varies from 20 to 230 miles. The average width is 90 to 100 miles. Along the coast of I "2^Bfc^ *^® Mediterranean the country is moun- ■ " I— I III ' tainous. On our way from Lausanne to Milan we traveled six hours through a mountainous region. The construction of the railroad must have^been very expensive. Four- fifths of the rail- roads in Italy are owned or controlled by the govern- ment. Many of the roads could be constructed only as national enterprises. Other sections of the country are level and fertile. Italy was the centre of the Roman empire, the greatest ever known, which long included practically the whole known world, and the city of Rome was the capital of that empire. The northern part of the coun- try fails to impress the stranger favorably. There are many villages, but the people appear to be poor. As one proceeds southward, the appearance of the country improves. There is a vast number of mulberry trees along the route. The farmers were engaged in hay- making, using ox~teams. One of the peculiarities of Italian towns is that every village has its bell tower, separate from the church. These towers are all square in form, Many of them contain four small bells each. 214 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. which hang under arches in the walls of the belfry, so that when they are rung they swing far outside. Milan (Milano in Italian) is the first city of im- portance along our route. It is next to Naples the most populous city in Italy, and the wealthiest manufactur- ing place in the country, with a population of nearly 600,000. It is situated in the fertile plain of Lom- bardy . The city is walled on three sides, and there are fourteen gates. It is a very old place, having been founded by the Celts. During the fourth century it was frequently the residence of the Roman emperors, especially of Constantine the Great from 324-37, and of Theodosius from 379-95, whose edicts in favor of Christianity were issued here. The chief glory of Milan is its famous and magnifi- cent cathedral, which was erected entirely of marble. It is next to St. Peter's at Rome the largest church in Europe, being 486 feet long and 220 feet wide. It is sometimes called the eighth wonder of the world. The cathedral covers an area of 14,000 square yards, and can hold nearly 40,000 people. The erection was com- menced in 1386 on the ground where already two cathe- drals had stood, but the work progressed very slowly on account of the quarreling of the architects. The great building was completed only in 1805-13 by order of Napoleon I. The roof, which is supported by 52 pil- lars, each 12 feet in diameter, is adorned with 96 pin- nacles or turrets, and the exterior is ornamented with some 2,000 statues in marble. In these two respects the building is absolutely unique. In 1906 there was added the great bronze door with reliefs representing scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, which is a great % ^^ _ ;C|i 'r""#"ff,'^'ir MILAN. 215 work of art. The effect of all the adornments is beau- tiful, especially in moonlight. The interior of the cathedral contains numerous ob- jects of interest. In front of the choir, below the dome, is the underground chapel of St. Borromeo, which is richly adorned with gold and precious stones, and contains the tomb of the saint. Whilst we were in the building there was a procession of women going down into the crypt where the body of Borromeo rests. We could look down into the place from a large circular opening above. There was much ceremony connected with the procession. The tomb is kept lighted con- stantly. Borromeo was a truly great and good man. Born in 1538 he became the Catholic Archbishop of Milan, and was noted for his saintly character and simple manners. He was exceedingly unselfish, espe- cially for the benefit of the poor. During the famine of 1570 and the plague of 1576 he devoted all his re- sources to charity. It is said that he sold his furniture to purchase food for the poor, and slept on a board. Borromeo founded 740 schools with 3,000 teachers and 40,000 scholars. Catholics and Protestants alike revere his memory. In 1569 a miserable wretch shot at him as he knelt at prayer in his chapel, but missed his aim. The good man died in 1 584. The body of Borromeo, who lived in real poverty, now rests in great splendor. Some one has said : *' The man whoVore the plainest clothing and disregarded all ornaments that he might be the better able to relieve the poor, now lies inibedded in gold and silver, jewels and precious metals." A citizen of Reading, who preceded our party, was permitted to see the remains of the noted 216 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. man. He saw that the bones of his hands are covered with jewels. One of the transepts of the cathedral contains a curious thirteenth' century bronze candelabrum in the form of a tree with seven branches. One of the chapels contains the wooden crucifix which St. Borromeo car- ried about durins: the great plague of 1576. In the iron-work gate of one of the chapels there is a small cross which people constantly rub and stroke. They seem to think there is special virtue in doing this. I saw parents lift up their small children to rub the cross. Near the centre in this cathedral stands a most unique statue, that of the Apostle St, Bartholomew, who is represented as having been skinned alive. He is carrying his skin rolled lengthwise and flung over his shoulder. It is believed that he carried the gospel to India. There is a legend that he was skinned alive and then crucified at Albanapolis, Armenia. His corpse was miraculously conveyed to one of the Lipari islands, near the coast of Sicily ; from thence to Benevento in southern Italy and A. D. 983 to Rome. St, Bartholo- mew's Day is celebrated on August 24. We ascended the lofty spire, from which a splendid view of the city is afforded. For this privilege we paid two fees. First we ascended to the roof of the great building, which is made of marb-e slabs, and walked over its whole length at its highest point. Many visitors walked over the roof whilst Mass was being celebrated in the church below. The ascent of church and spire was quite a tedious undertaking. There are 194 steps to the roof, and 300 steps more in the steeple, or nearly 500 in all. But we realized THE GREAT CATHEDRAL. 217 that we might never again go to Milan, and willingly bore the fatigue. The great cathedral is always open during the day, and people come either for worship or sight-seeing all the time. Whilst some are kneeling on chairs, with their eyes upon a crucifix, others are moving around in the building to satisfy their curiosity. Sometimes visi- tors almost fall over the worshippers. There is more or less formality in many places. Here I observed a peculiar phase of it. Near the entrances of lall Cath- olic churches are bowls of holy water, into which wor- shippers dip their fingers and then cross themselves. Here I saw two richly dressed ladies who, after enter- ing, instead of going through the regular form, with their gloved fingers touched the outside of the bowl and then crossed themselves. They had the satisfaction of knowing that they had gone through the motions. The church of St. Ambrose was founded in the fourth century by St. Ambrose, who baptized St. Au- gustine here in 387, and in 389 closed the doors of the church against Emperor Theodosius after the cruel massacre in Thessalonica, and compelled him to do penance. Emperor Theodosius, in extenuation of his guilt, referred St. Ambrose to the sins of King David. St. Ambrose replied : " Thou hast imitated David in thy crimes ; imitate him also in thy repentance." The wooden door of the church, which is covered with a screen, dates from the time of St. Ambrose. The origi- nal altar and chair of this saint are also preserved. The church in its present form dates probably from the twelfth century. To the left of the choir is the tomb of Pepin, son of Charlemagne. The crypt under the 15 218 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. church contains the bones of St. Ambrose and other saints. St. Lorenzo's is the oldest church in Milan. It was erected about 560, rebuilt after a fire in 1071, and re- stored about 1573- Its great age is everywhere appar- ent. There are several mortuary chapels from the fifth and sixth centuries. Near St. Lorenzo's is another interesting relic. On the edge of the pavement in front of some very old houses stands a row of sixteen Corinthian columns, the principal relic of the Middle Ages in the^city. The columns were evidently a part of some splendid build- ing. They have been much worn with age and some had to be braced with iron hoops to prevent them from falling to pieces. There are a number of monuments in Milan. The principal ones are the colossal bronze equestrian statue of Victor Emanuel II. in front of the cathedral ; a fine equestrian statue of Garibaldi, the famous Italian pa- triot ; a statue of Napoleon I. as Roman emperor, and a statue of Leonardo da Vinci, a famous Italian painter. The Arch of Peace, built of white marble, 1807-38, commemorates the campaigns of Napoleon I. Milan is an art centre. In several galleries are large collections of paintings by da Vinci and his pupils, Raphael and several others. Santa Maria delle Gracie is the name of a brick building of the fifteenth century, richly decorated ex- ternally. The church formerly belonged to a monas- tery. On a wall of the refectory in this former mon- astery is Leonardo da Vinci's famous fresco of the Last Supper, which was executed in 1449. This paint- GENOA. 219 ing is known the world over. It represents the Last Supper at the point when Jesus said : " One of you shall betray me !" The disciples are profoundly affected and agitated. This famous paioting is faded a good deal. Two copies have been made on other walls of the building, which are excellent reproductions. The country south of Milan is more of an agricul- tural region than the section north of the city. The work in the fields is still performed in the ancient fashion with the sickle. I saw no grain cradle. Our way took us through Pavia, a very oM town of 30,000 people. In the cathedral of this place is the marble tomb of St. Augustine, ornamented with a large number of bas-reliefs and figures. The country be- tween Milan and Genoa is quite hilly. Lack of time forbade our stopping in the city of Genoa (Italian Geneva), the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, the discoverer of America, who was born here in 1447. This is a place of about 250,000 people. Genoa is the principal seaport of Italy, being located on the Mediterranean Sea. The city was long a republic, and at times powerful, but through the fortunes of war it was in turn subject to various nations, until finally it was incorporated into the kingdom of Ita-y. There is a fine monument of Columbus in the city. Whilst Columbus was a native of Italy, it was Spain that sent him on his errand, during which he discovered the western world. We had a fine view of the splendid harbor of Genoa as we passed along. The scenery varies a good deal between Genoa and Pisa. There are many olive trees along the way, and also many vineyards, for grapes are cultivated to a large 220 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. extent in Italy. There are numerous small towns, some of which are located on hill-tops. There are some primitive arrangements noticeable in this region. One is the old-style wells. Instead of pumps to raise the water, there are poles and ropes to do this work. Then ox-teams are in general use by the farmer. The country is very mountainous all along the road from Milan to Pisa. Our train passed through at least seventy-five tunnels between the two places. There are some fine marble quarries in this region. Pisa is widely known, perhaps principally on ac- count of its famous Leaning Tower, but it has also an interesting and long history. It is a walled city, with a citadel . Although located six miles from the Mediter- ranean Sea, it was formerly a great port, but the river Arno has filled up to such an extent that ships can no longer reach the city. In consequence the trade has gone elsewhere and Pisa is now a dead place. Pisa's history goes back to the second century be- fore Christ, when it became subject to the Roman Em- pire. The famous Council of Pisa was in session here from March to August, 1409. Its purpose was to settle the schism which had divided the Roman Church for thirty years. At that time there were two rival Popes, Gregory XII. and Benedict XIII. The Council was attended from first to last by 24 cardinals, 4 patriarchs, 80 bishops, 102 proctors of bishops, 87 abbots, 200 delegates of abbots, besides many representatives of orders, doctors, deputies of universities and ambassa- dors. Both Popes were summoned before the Council, but neither one appeared. The Council therefore un- dertook to depose them, and the cardinals present elected PISA. 221 CardiDal Philargi as Pope. But instead of getting rid of the two rivals it turned out that the Council had only added a third, and the Church continued to be dis- turbed eight years longer until the time of the Council of Constance. The most important building in Pisa is the old cathedral, which was erected between 1063 and 1118. It is 311 feet long, 252 wide and 109 high. There is a beautiful dome with fine paintings. At the time of our visit there were nearly as many priests and other gowned persons in the cathedral as other worshippers. In the front of the church are four rows of pilasters and arches, one above the other, composing a fine facade, and elaborate bronze doors, dating from 1606. Inside there are 6S antique columns, which were captured in war by the Pisans. Among the paintings are a Ma- donna, St. Peter, St. John, Abraham's Sacrifice and the Entombment. Immediately west of the cathedral is another large circular building, the Baptistry, begun in 1163, but not completed until after 1278, with Gothic additions in the fourteenth century. The building, which is entirely of marble, contains the famous pulpit by Pisano, hexa- gonal in form, and supported by seven columns. The large octagonal baptismal font dates from 1246. There is a remarkable echo in this building. East of the Cathedral stands the famous Leaning Tower. This is a round marble campanile or bell tower, 180 feet high. It was erected in 1174-1350. The uppermost of its eight stories, which is smaller than the others, contains the bells. The exterior is encircled with rows of columns and on this account reminds one 222 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. of the pictures of the Tower of Babel. The most in- teresting thing about this structure is the fact that it inclines fourteen feet out of the perpendicular. It be- gan to lean when the third story had been completed, the foundation on one side haviug given way. Singu- larly its erection was proceeded with and in this condi- tian the tower has stood hundreds of years. There are seven bells in the upper story, and these haug near the edge of the walls, so that when rung they swing out far beyond the walls, as is the case with most bell- towers in Italy. Ascend- ing the 301 steps to the top of the tower, we found to be no small task, but the beautiful view over the city repaid us for the eifort. It seems strange that the Leaning Tower should not fall over. Since our visit we read in a paper that the incli- nation had increased, and that the ringing of the bells had been forbidden. This is not the only leaning tower. There are two in Bo- logna; in fact, there is a second, but uninteresting one in Pisa itself. Gralileo, the famous scientist and astronomer, was born in Pisa Feb. 18, 1564. In 1581, whilst a student in the University of Pisa, he one day made an obser- vation in the cathedral which led him to an important discovery. He watched the swinging of a bronze lamp LEANING TOWEPv. PISA. 223 and uoticed that the swinging, no matter what its range^ was always accomplished in equal time. This discovery was later helpful to him in the construction of an astronomical clock. He also discovered that in a vacuum all falling bodies, whether large or small, de- scend with equal velocity. He tested this theory by means of experiments from the top of the Leaning Tower. He was then one of the professors in the uni- versity, but his discoveries aroused such opposition that he resigned and withdrew to Florence. Galileo also declared his adherence to the Coper- nican theory— that the sun is the centre of the solar system, and that the earth and planets revolve round it. As a result he was brought before the Inquisition and condemned to recant upon his knees the truth of his scientific theories that the earth moves, etc. The story goes that he did recant as a matter of compulsion, but at the conclusion exclaimed : " Nevertheless it does move.^^ It is stated that Galileo was now tortured, and condemned to the dungeon of the Inquisition. He died in 1642. In 1203 a national cemetery was started at Pisa in a peculiar manner. Fifty -three shiploads of earth were brought from Jerusalem for this purpose. In 1270-83 Giovanni Pisano surrounded the ground with cloisters, the walls of which are adorned with numerous fresco paintings by several artists of the fourteenth century. The place is no longer used for the original purpose. It is now known as " Campo Santo." The building is in the form of an open square. Some of the wall paintings admonish us of the power and solemnity of death. Others depict more cheerful scenes from the 224 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. New Testament. One of these paintings represents the Triumph of Death, which terrifies mortals addicted to worldly enjoyments, but passes by the poor and miser- able who would welcome his coming. An equestrian party, who are on their way to the chase, are suddenly reminded by three open coffins of the fleeting nature of earthly pleasures. Next comes the Last Judgment and Hell. Another painting [represents the history of the Creation and the Fall of Man, etc. There is also a large collection of ancient sarcophagi and sculptures, and mediaeval and modern tombstones in this place. Naples (Napoli in Italian, Neapel in German) is the most populous city in Italy, having about 600,000 inhabitants Most charmingly situated on the Medi- terranean Sea, it is three miles long by two wide. It is a city of strong contrasts. Some parts are very beautiful, but others are just the reverse. The rich live in palatial residences ; the poor in hovels. On ac- count of its beautiful situation and its bracing climate, the citizens are foud ^of repeating the saying : " See Naples and then die." But I cannot see why one should especially wish to die after having seen Naples, Unless it be from disgust over some of the scenes of misery and degradation to be witnessed in the city. Our party wandered through certain quarters inhabited by the poor, which impressed us with sadness. The streets are very narrow and extremely filthy. No ray of sun- shine ever penetrates some of these streets which are crowded with the poor. Many people work, eat and sleep in the same room. Women were sewing under the doors, because their rooms are dark. Yards are practically unknown. Here these poverty-stricken NAPLES. 225 people spend their miserable lives until death removes them. The great wonder is that pestilence does not depopulate such districts. In 1884 cholera carried off many thousands. In one night two thousand persons fell ill and one thousand of them died. Since then efforts have been made to purify the city and introduce better sanitary conditions, but much remains to be done. Naples is of Greek origin. The Romans conquered it in B. C. 326. Later Naples became a famous resort for the Roman aristocracy. The city passed through many stormy experiences, and during the centuries was subject to various rulers. In more modern times it was alternately controlled by Spain, Austria and France. In 1860 the triumph of Garibaldi, the Italian patriot, resulted in the city's annexation to the kingdom of Italy, and since then it has enjoyed peace. The people of Naples are bright, gay and lively, and are said to be careless and easy-going. They are certainly a noisy crowd. From morning to night the streets resound with the rattle of vehicles, the cracking of whips, the shouts of drivers and the cries of vendors of all kinds of articles. There is hardly an end to the noise. Some one has said that Naples never goes to bed. Before the noise and din of one day has subsided that of the following day commences. Strangers are con- stantly besieged by swarms of hawkers and guides. It is remarkable how many able-bodied men are in the streets selling postal cards. A stranger cannot go into a street without being at once confronted by one of these gentry. Telling him half a dozen times that you do not want his goods has little effect. He will walk by your side half a square and hold his cards before you. 226 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Harsh words are about the only means to rid oneself of these persons. You experience the same trouble with others who want to guide you around the city. Either these men are too lazy to work or there must be a la- mentable Jack of employment. There are a number of wide, busy streets. Of these the Via Roma is the principal one. There is no end to carts drawn by mules and oxen. Horses and four- wheeled wagons are seldom seen. The streets are level and very heavy loads are dragged through the city. The view along the bay front is beautiful. There is an excellent outlook upon the sea, and many of the most elaborate buildings are located along the beach. One of the most interesting places in the city is the magnificent National Museum. The building was erected in 1586 as a barracks. After 1615 it was occu- pied by the university, and in 1790 it was fitted up for the royal collection of antiquites and paintings, to which have been added the treasures excavated at Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae, cities overwhelmed by eruptions of Mt. Vesuvius. This museum is one of the finest in the world. The antiquities and works of art from the cities named are unrivalled. Many of the finest frescos of Pompeii were brought here. An object of special interest is the famous Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander at Issus, which was found in the House of the Faun at Pompeii in 1831. This is a mar- vellous piece of art. There are many pieces of bronze statuary from Herculaneum. The National Library division contains 380,000 volumes and about 8,000 manuscripts. Naples has upwards of three hundred churches. Some were founded 600 to 800 years ago. The most NAPLES. 227 interesting one is the cathedral of St. Januarius. It was built in 1294-1323, and several times restored and altered since the great earthquake of 1456. The cen- tral door dates from 1407. The principal attraction is the chapel of St. Januarius, built in 1608-37, at the cost of over a million dollars. The cathedral contains seven altars, 42 columns, and a valuable treasury. In the tabernacle of the chief altar are two vessels contain- ing some of the blood of St. Januarius, Bishop of Bene- vento, who suffered martyrdom under Diocletian in 305. He was beheaded near Puteoli. The storv is that the blood liquefies three times each year — in May, Sep- tember and December. The liquefaction occurred for the first time when the saint's body was brought to Naples in the time of Constantine. According as the liquefaction is rapid or slow, it is a good or evil omen for the year. This is the Roman story, and I suppose many Catholics believe it. We were shown the exact place where the two vessels with the blood are de- posited. The tomb of St. Januarius is richly orna- mented. It is right under the high altar. In the church are a number of fine Corinthian columns, said to have belonged to a temple of Apollo which stood at the same place as the cathedral. The ceremony connected with the liquefaction of St. Januarius' blood was observed on September 19, 1910, in the presence of a large crowd. The vessels contain- ing the blood were placed upon the altar, after which the priests prayed 55 minutes, and then a miracle was performed — the blood assumed a liquid form and flowed. At the above date cholera prevailed in Naples. The fact that the blood flowed freely was taken as an omen 228 RAMBLES IN EUEOPE. that the cholera would soon cease. It is claimed that at the martyrdom of St. Januarius a poor woman gath- ered his blood from the ground into two small bottles. We had a rather awkward experience whilst inspect- ing the cathedral. The building was closed when we arrived. A ring of the bell at the adjoining building brought a boy of about twelve years to the door, who agreed to open the church door for us for one lira (20 cents). He locked the door after our entrance and showed us around. When we were ready to go and the boy was offered his lira, he shook his head and said : " Two lira." Reminding him of his contract helped nothing. He continued firm in his demand for a double fee, and gained his point. The youngster has already learned the Italian art of fleecing travelers. The church of San Domenico Maggiore contains 45 coffins covered with velvet. Ten of these contain the remains of princes of the house of Aragon. There are many very poor people in Naples. We saw many needy people of advanced years. There were some old men and women sleeping in the day timte on church steps. Many women were without hats and went barefooted. I saw a young man asleep leaning against a church. Numerous barefooted men, women children were in the streets. All of them were very untidy. The children were ragged. I am not sur- prised that so many industrious Italians come to the United States where wag8s are good. It seems to me that Naples could easily spare 50,000 of its adult pop- ulation to earn their living elsewhere, ilt home many have a miserable existence. Among the street scenes of Naples was that of a cart drawn by a horse, a donkey and a cow. CHAPTER XV.— ITALY (Continued). Pompeii.— Mt. Vesuvius.— Florence.— Its Art Galleries. Venice, the City of Canals and Islands. HE site of the buried city of Pompeii is fifteen miles southeast of Naples. We reached it by the Circumvesuviana trolly Hue. Our party was under the escort of a competent and obliging guide from the firm of Thomas Cook & Son. Five years ago, in 1906, a por- tion of the trolly roadbed was swept away by a stream of lava from the crater of Mt. Ve- suvius. Pompeii was once a flourishing town with 20-30,000 people. About the year 290 before Christ the people became subjects of the Roman empire. In the year 63 after Christ a fearful earthquake destroyed the town, but it was rebuilt in the Roman style. It was then a splendid place, with many fine houses, large theatres and a number of heathen temples. But now, before the new town had been completed, it was overtaken by a new catastrophe which blotted the place oui; of exist- ence. In the year 79 after Christ a violent eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, more than five miles away, covered the whole town with pumice stone and ashes to the depth of 10 to 16 feet. Most of the people succeeded in epcaping with their lives, and afterwards came back to recover whatever they could. This covering of ashes was gradually increased to 20 feet in depth by subse- quent eruptions of Vesuvius, and for centuries the exist- ence of Pompeii was entirely forgotten. But the ashes 230 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. partially preserved the bodies of the people who were killed, as well as their houses. The destruction of Pompeii was somewhat similar to that of Sodom and Gomorrah, only that Pompeii was de- stroyed by ashes instead of by fire. It is believed that the people who perished were those who had at first escaped, but then came back to take their valuables with them. Since our visit the skeleton of a man was dug out at Pompeii with fifty pieces of money in his hand. We are reminded of Lot's wife. Then it is stated that many of the gay citizens of Rome spent much of their time at Pompeii in dissipation. The place is repre- sented as having been a sort of Atlantic City for the Romans. Immorality prevailed to a large degree. Pompeii continued to be unknown until 1748, when some accidental discoveries were made. In 1860 the Italian government undertook the work of excavating the buried town, and the work has since proceeded in a scientific way. Many of the objects dug out are now to be seen in the National Museum at Naples corpses, statues, a great variety of household articles, frescoes from the walls, pillars and other evidences which show the splendor of the doomed city. The excavations are still going forward. We spent fully two hours in inspecting the ruins under the direction of our guide. Pompeii was a regu- larly laid out town. The streets are narrow, nearly all paved with lava blocks. In some of them deep grooves were worn into the stones by wagons. The pavements are also narrow. The street crossings consist of raised stones, so that people could pass over without soiling their shoes. Many houses had only one story, and as POMPEII. 231 a rule were small. Others were two-storied. The upper floor was usually occupied by slaves. There were numerous water troughs along the streets, and in the houses the ruins of many bake ovens were to be seen. The walls of the city are well preserved. Nearly all of the houses are erected of concrete — small stones mixed with cement. Bricks and hewn stones were used for door-posts, corners, etc. There were many wall- paintings. The best- preserved have been removed to Naples. The pictures are largely mythological subjects. There is a small museum in the town which contains many exhumed objects — skulls, skeletons, terra cotta, bronze vessels, etc. There is the body of a young girl with a ring on her finger ; an elderly and a young woman ; a man lying on his face ; a man lying on his left side, with well- preserved features. It is wonderful how well many of these objects have been preserved. I can mention only a few of the public buildings, such as : Temple of Apollo, with its altar in a good state of preservation, and with copies of original statues of Mer- cury, Apollo, Diana, etc., now in the Museum at Naples ; Forum, which was the principal public square ; Temple of Jupiter, withjtriumphal arches on both sides ; Marcel- lum, a provision market, with eleven stalls still in posi- tion ; Barracks for Gladiators, where sixty-three bodies were found ; Great Theatre, with 5,000 seats ; Small Theatre, accommodating 1,500 people, and a large Bath House. Of residences mention might be made of the House of the Faun, so called after a small statue of the Faun (a heathen god of the field) which was found here. It was in this magnificent dwelling that the famous mosaic 232 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. of the Battle of Alexander, now kept in the Naples museum, was found. The House of the Tragic Poet, at the entrance of which there is a watch dog in mosaic, with the caution ; " Cave Canem " (Beware of the Dog). Drinking places were not wanting in Pompeii. Among the riiins are those of a tavern. The pictures on the wall allude to drinking — a wagon with a'^ wine- skin, players and drinkers ; in a corner a soldier is be- ing served with drinks. Above the place is a sign with the words : " Add cold water." On the outside of the wall is the Street of Tombs, along which burials were made. The custom was to bury along the roadsides, the same as at Rome. Some of the tombs are large. Near the tomb of Diomedes was his fine residence. Beneath it was a vaulted cellar. Eighteen bodies of women and children were found in this vault. They had provided themselves with food and sought refuge here. The owner was found near the garden door^ with a key in his hand, and beside him a slave with money and valuables. One of the objective points of our tour was Mt. Vesuvius, the ^' fire-spitting " mountain near Naples, Italy. This is one of the most famous volcanoes in the world. The mountain is over four thousand feet high, and rather difficult to ascend. It has been active at various times, when it belched forth liquid fire which ran down its steep slopes and carried destruction and death to the villages for miles around its base. The first serious activity of Mt. Vesuvius, recorded in his- tory, occurred in the year 63. It came in the form of MT. VESUVIUS. 233 ^n earthquake. The greatest and most destructive eruption took place in tbe year 79, when the cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae were entirely^de- stroyed and buried. Pompeii was buried with ashes and was completely forgotten until 1592, when traces of it were discovered. Excavations were carried on at various times with little success until 1860, when the Italian government undertook the work and; since then uncovered the walls of almost the whole city. Hercu- laneum was buried to the depth of 40 to 100 feet by liquid lava, which became very hard. The villages of Portici and Resina, now suburbs of Naples, have been erected on the site of this buried city, so that it will never be exhumed. The site of Stabiae is now occupied by the town of Castellammare with 24,000 inhabitants, situated on the Mediterranean Sea. There have been numerous eruptions of Mt. Vesu- vius since 79, the most notable of which are those of 472, when its ashes were carried as far as Constanti- nople; in 512, when they were wafted to Tripoli ; ia 1631, when the mountain sides were denuded of their forest growth by the liquid fire; 1793, when a stream of lava, 12 to 40 feet thick, swept over Torre del Greco and penetrated the sea to a distance of 380 feet, by which time the stream was 1,200 feet wide and 15 feet high. It required only six hours for the stream of fire to travel from the crater to the sea, a distance of four miles. It is strange that people should insist upon living in this place of danger. The town of Torre del Greco was destroyed four times by lava streams — in 1631, 1737, 1794 and 1861— but always rebuilt, and aow has 35,000 inhabitants. In 1822 the smoke from 16 234 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the crater rose 10,000 feet into the air, accompaDied by flashes of lightning and torrents of hot water, which flooded the villages of St. Sebastiano and Massa. Later severe and disastrous eruptions occurred in 1855, 1861, 1871. The last disaster occurred on April 7-10, 1906, when several small villages were destroyed or damaged. In one place the people flocked into their church to pray for deliverance, when the church was struck by a stream of lava and four hundred persons were killed. The great question was, how to ascend Mt. Vesu- vius ? In London we had been informed that a trolly road had been built to the top, but we found that the road extended only part way up to the crater. A few days before reaching Naples we were [told that the volcano had once more become active, which would have pre- cluded the ascent. Fortunately this statement was also false. At Naples we boarded a trolly car and rode to a village near the base of the mountain. On the way we passed over a wide bed of lava which flowed down the mountain, carried away the trolly bed and destroyed the church mentioned above. We contracted with a licensed guide to take our party of four up to the crater and back for forty francs ($8.00). This was to include all fees, and there were to be no extras. After a short ride in carriages we were given horses and proceeded on our journey up the mountain. Horseback riding was a new and novel thing for me, since I had, to my recollection, been on horseback only once since my boy- hood days. Our road for some distance led us along vineyards. The soil appeared to be poor, but the vines were full of large bunches of grapes. Soon we struck lava beds MT. VESUVIUS. 235 which cx)ntinued all the way up. The ascent began to be steep and we proceeded at times in a zigzag way. Soon all vegetation around us had disappeared and nothing but lava remained. However, at some places many pine trees had been planted in regular rows in the lava. It is remarkable that anything should thrive here, but these trees are growing. It is marvellous what immense masses of this black matter have been emitted from the bowels of the earth. Generally the surface of the beds is rocky, and we had a good idea of the fiery stream that flowed down the mountain side. At many places there is only a bridle path that leads upward. At some points the path is at the edge of a steep precipice. If my good horse Garibaldi had not been a sure-footed animal, I fear I should not be here to pen these lines. As we proceeded up the hill the view over the coun- try and villages below us became grander and grander. Below us everything was green and beautiful. Around us was nothing but black lava, which covers many square miles. Our faces were set toward the smoking crater and we pressed on. We continued our upward journey until we reached the point beyond which horses cannot go. Our poor animals appeared to be glad, for we had no sooner dismounted than Rev. Mr. Moyer's horse rolled himself in the loose lava with the saddle on his back. What now ? Our untruthful guide had assured us that from here it was only about a hundred feet to the crater, but it was at least an eighth of a mile, if not more. The upward grade was very steep. We must go up on foot, or perhaps on hands and feet. The task 236 KAMBLES IN EUROPE. looked very formidable. But up we must go. This is what we came for. It was simply a question of now or never. And there was no time to be lost ; it was already late in the afternoon. Our guide started first of all, aud left us to get up as best we could. With fresh courage we started off. Unfortunately the lava here is fine and loose, so that we constantly slipped back. There are alvvays men there to assist tourists up the hill — of course for pay. Soon after I had started one of these stepped before me and told me to take hold of a strap which hung over his shoulder. He wore hob-nail shoes, and carried a staff with a sharp point. I declined his offer and brushed him away. He knew better than I, and assured me that I could not get up unassisted. After awhile I was glad to accept his services and agreed to pay him five france ($1.00) to pull me up and bring me down safely. After proceed- ing a short distance another man began to push at me. I forbade him, telling him I had all the help I needed. But soon I found it wise to aocept his help also for two francs. Now we proceeded up the steep hill — one man pulling and the other pushing me. I was passive. All I needed to do was to hold on to the strap in front of of me and keep on my feet. The men did the really hard work. Of course we had to stop often to recover our breath. Finally we reached the top. And what a sight ! We looked down into the crater, which is circular in form and said to be one-third of a mile in diameter. A constant volume of steam and smoke arises out of it. The edge of the crater is quite pointed. The lava is loose and parts of it at the edge are constantly rolling MT. VESUVIUS. 237 down into the fearful abyss. The place is really danger- ous. What if the lava under our feet should give way ? We should have slipped into the mouth of the volcano and perished. My guide all the time held me firmly by the arm. At various points we saw large lumps of lava and stones rolling down into the crater with a great noise. And what if the volcano had suddenly become active? We should have perished. In 1871 twenty spectators were there, when it became active, and these people were killed on the spot. But such risks must be taken, if people would see this great wonder. We could not look far down into the immense hole on account of the steam arising out of it. It is evident that way down in the earth there is a sea of fire. Even the lava under our feet was too hot to be held in the hand. However, I pocketed a small piece and brought it home. Not only lava, but various kinds of minerals come out of the earth through the crater. A professor of the University of Naples counts forty such speci- mens, including iron and mica. But what an enchanting view from the top of Mt. Vesuvius ! The grandeur of the view over the coun- try, the numerous villages and the bay of Naples can- not be adequately described. Among the prominent objects seen in the villages are the churches. Not many miles away we saw the site of Pompeii which was de- stroyed by this volcano in the year 79. Everything before us was green except the foundations of the ill- fated city. After feasting our eyes for some time on the out- look we began the descent. There was danger even in this. The question was in what posture we should go 238 K AMBLES IN EUROPE. down — walking or rolling. My assistant took firm hold of my arm and we came down safely, and far more quickly than we had gone up. We had hardly started downward before my assistant asked for an additional fee, and I gave him an extra franc. I was the first of our party to reach the horses. I quickly mounted my Garibaldi and rode off. This I did because I am a poor rider and knew that the others would soon overtake me. But they lingered a good while, and I was soon out of their sight. Presently a feeling of fear came over me, I felt that possibly my companions were being robbed })y the Italians. Then again I felt that I might be robbed by the one who accompanied me. For instead of one guide three insisted upon going with us I halted, but could see neither of my com- panions because of the winding of the path. But soon I saw dust in the air at three different points, and knew that the others were coming. Presently they caught up with me, and we made the balance of the descent together. It took us 2J hours to go up to the crater, and two hours to come down. As we entered the village where we had started on horseback, children held out their hands to us for money. They have early learned to profit by the tourists. Because there were three guides instead of one, who had gone up the mountain with us, we volun- tarily agreed to give the principal fifty francs instead of forty, as per contract, with the understanding that he share with the others. This he readily agreed to. When we dismounted a number of others were ready to assist us. One held my tired horse, who was in no danger of running away, whilst another helped me to FLORENCE. 239 get off. Of course each one looked for a fee. We ap- pealed to the boss, and he waved them away. Each one of our party had about the same experience here. We got into the carriages and drove to the trolley sta- tion, half a mile away. But we had hardly reached the place, when about a dozen of these greedy persons came running after us to get more fees from us. For- tunately for us there was a military officer there, who gave them a sound scolding and drove them back. Florence was the political capital of Italy from 1865 to 1871. In the latter year King Victor Emman- uel, the unifier of Italy, transferred the seat of govern- ment to Rome. The Italians call it Firenze. It is an interesting city and noted especially for its art treasures. Its population is over 150,000. The city is situated on both sides of the river Arno. It is famous not only for its splendid art galleries, but also for its many historical associations. Florence has long been one of the foremost cities of Italy. Its history goes back beyond the Christian era, and is largely similar to that of most European cities — many wars and frequent changes of goverment. Dur- ing the Middle Ages Florence was long ruled by the Medici family. In 1492 a republic was established, largely through the leadership of the famous Dominican monk Savonarola. But the Medici regained possession of the government in 1512, Savonarola having been burned at the stake in 1498. They were again driven out in 1527, but in 1530 Charles Y. reinstated them. The brilliant and prosperous reign of this distinguished family came to an end in 1737. From 1801 to 1814 Florence was under the domination of Napoleon. 240 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Finally in 1860 Tuscany was united with Italy. In 1348 the pestilence known as Black Death carried off 100,000 Florentines. Florence is a very religious city after its fashion. There are nearly 200 churches, which is a large number for the population. The principal church is the cathe- dral, whose foundations were laid in 1298. The build- ing was fully completed only in 1887, which event was celebrated with great pomp. Many architects were em- ployed in erecting the great church. In 1366 twenty- four such were thus engaged. It is stated that the grand dome was so admired by Michael Angelo that he used it as a model for the dome of St. Peter's at Rome. The building contains numerous statues by various artists, including one of Michael Angelo. The dome if 300 feet high, 463 steps leading to its upper gallery. The building is 555 feet long and 342 feet wide, and its exterior is covered with marble of various colors. In front of the cathedral is the famous Campanile or Bell Tower, probably the finest of its kind in Italy.. It is 275 feet high; 414 steps lead to its top, from which one is afforded a splendid view of the city and surrounding country. The walls of the tower are en- cased with marbie of various colors, like those of the cathedral, and richly adorned with sculpture. Near the tower is the baptistry, an old octagonal building, the walls of which, like those of the cathedral and campanile, are also covered with colored marble. The Church of Santa Croce, the pantheon of Flor- ence, erected in 1294, contains monuments to Galileo (see page 222), Dante, Michael Angelo and others. The tomb of Michael Angelo is near the altar. This FLORENCE. 241 church has a peculiar roof, whose rafters are exposed, the only one of its kind I saw during our journey. In front of the building stands a large statue of Dante, the famous Italian poet. The Church of St. Lorenzo was dedicated as early as 393 by St. Ambrose, but rebuilt later. Connected with this church are two buildings known as the Chapels of the Medici. There are a number of famous statues here, including those representing Day and Night, and Evening and Dawn. One of the most interesting places in Florence is the former monastery of St. Mark, now occupied as a museum. The cells of the monks are preserved. There are a number of fine paintings in the halls. We were chiefly interested in the cells of Jerome Savonarola, that famous good man. He was born in 1452 of a noble family. In 1474 he became a Dominican monk, and preached his first sermon in Florence in 1482. Savon- arola denounced vice and sin unsparingly. On this account he came into conflict with the government of the Medici family. A genuine and zealous reformer, he was the foremost leader of the movement which re- sulted in the establishment of a republic in 1492, which was made a Christian commonwealth. The most stringent laws against vice were enacted. The follies of the women in reference to dress were suppressed. Many women brought their ornaments to a public place, where a huge bonfire was made of them. In his zeal Savonarola spared no one, not even the Pope. In 1495 he was cited to Rome to be tried for heresy. He refused to appear and was forbidden to preach. He was offered the position of a cardinal, if 242 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. he would change his style of preachiug, but he refused, and was once more forbidden to preach. Savonarola now began to have trouble at home. The republic was waning and the Medici party was gaining ground, and at the same time the bold reformer was excommuni- cated by E-ome. During the plague he ministered to the stricken monks. In 1498 the Medici once more came into^power, and Savonarola was condemned to death. He was strangled with two other monks and their bodies burned on May 23, 1498. Savonarola had occupied three cells in the monas- tery. They remain as they were in his time. There are the oris^inal chairs and books ; a picture of his burn- ing in front of the present city hall ; a string of beads, a crucifix, a portrait and a bronze bust of the good man. There are pictures in all the numerous cells, mostly of the Crucifixion. The library in the building contains numerous large illustrated books produced by the monks for use in Catholic churches. These indicate great artistic skill and patience on the part of the friars. There are beautiful wall paintings on the outside of the building facing the open court. It is wonderful how well- preserved these are. These monks no doubt were sincere people. They rendered the Church and the cause of truth great services in a way, but it was un- doubtedly an error for them to seclude themselves from the world. Another interesting building in Florence is the City Hall, originally the Palace Vecchio. This is a large building, with a tower 260 feet high. Its great bell in former times was used to warn citizens of danger or to summon them for defence. In front of this building FLORENCE. 243 Savonarola and his two companions were burned. In one of its halls stands a colossal statue of the great martyr, only a short distance from the spot where he was executed. At the entrance to the building stands a large statue of David. In the private Chapel of the Medici we find a large fresco representing a brilliant hunting calvacade of the Medici. Near the city hall is an open square with many fine statues, and nearby is an arcade in which are found numerous groups of sculpture. Florence is noted for its large collection of art treas- ures. These are contained in two galleries named Uffizi and Pitti. In these we found an immense collection of fine paintings,^ engravings, sculptures, bronzes, coins, gems and mosaics. These collections of art are excelled by few others in the world. As we enter the Uffizi Gallery we are confronted by a colossal statue of David by Michael Angelo, hewn by this noted astist in 1501-1503, when in his 26th year, out of a gigantic block of marble. In these two galleries, as in most others, we found a large number of Madonnas. The mother of Christ is a favorite subject with artists, as is that of the Crucifixion. Of the many paintings of great beauty and superior merit, we were interested especially in those representing the Adoration of the Magi, the Descent from the Cross, the Adoration of the Shepherds, the Baptism of Jesus, the Last Judgment, etc. The two galleries are located on opposite sides of the river, and are connected by a long closed passage, both sides of which are covered with portraits of prominent people. An interesting sight in Florence is its quaint old bridges across ^ the river Arno. One — the Ponte Vec- 244 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. chio — is specially curious, being entirely unlike any other I have ever seen. The central part is simply a continuation of a street. Both sides fronting the street are lined with shops, largely jewelry stores, whilst the outsides of the bridge are turned into a number of dwellings. These latter seem to hang to the bridge. The whole presents a most singular sight, and must be seen to be fully appreciated. This bridge is one of the busiest parts of the city. It is a very old structure, having been erected in 1345 to replace an older one. The waters of the Arno are very muddy. On one side of the stream there is a street between the water and the buildings, whilst on the other side the buildings run down into the water. As a rule the streets are very narrow, barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass each other, and the pavements still more so. Most people walk in the streets. In those streets occupied by trolly lines walk- ing is attended with a good deal of danger. The older part of the city centres about the cathe- dral, but this part has been greatly moderniz^ed since 1888. A short distance southwest of the cathedral is the Victor Emmanuel Place, with a large statue of the late king on horseback. On the west is a huge archway as the entrance to a street. Florence was the home of many famous Italians. Among them was Galileo, the noted astronomer, who on account of proclaiming his new discoveries in the starry heavens was declared a heretic and subjected to severe sufferings. His theories are now universally acknowl- edged. Another was Dante, the famous poet, who was born here in 1265, but had to spend the greater part of 9 Ah VENICE. ^^^ his life in exile. He died in 1321 in Ravenna, where be was buried. Another celebrity of this city was Florence Nightingale, the famous and ""^f ff ,,"7^' who was known as the « angel of the battlefield. The noble woman, who devoted her life to *« aeviation of suffering in hospitals and on the battlefield djed ou August 14, 1910, aged 90 years. She was of Enghsh descent descent. , ^ , • .«^„ The country between Florence and Bologna is very mountainous, and the railroad leads through some thirty tunnels under the Appenines. Afterwards we passed through a fruitful agricultural region. Venice (Venezia in Italian and Venedig m (:rer- man) is a most unique city. It is situated in the north- eastern corner of Italy, on the western shore of the Adriatic, in the Lagoon. The saying of Erasmus tha,t "the people of Amsterdam are dwelling on tree tops applies with greater force to the people of Venice for their city is built on piles on 117 small islands, which are intersected by over 150 canals, and these canals are crossed by 378 bridges, mostly of stone. Instead of streets there are canals throughout the city, and instead of vehicles boats are employed for travel and trade. On some of the islands there are numerous small lanes, some of which are only five feet wide. Venice is ab- solutelv- a horseless city. There is no such thing as hiring a carriags or automobile, for these thinge are un- known there. When a person leaves his house to go anywhere he steps into a gondola (small boat) and travels by water. The steps from the houses lead right down into the water. . i j j The city is situated 2^ miles from the mainland and the approrch to it leads over wide sheets of water. 246 KAMBLES IN EUKOPE. After leaving the station we boarded a steamboat and rode over the Grand Canal to St. Mark's Place. This canal runs through the centre of the city, and a ride on it affords a good view of the place. There are many large and important buildings along the route. The Grand Canal is 2J miles long, with an average width of 220 feet and a depth of 16 feet. In its windings it forms the letter S. Of the hundreds of Venetian THE MALTO, VENICE. bridges the principal one is the Rialto, which is located in the centre of the city. This is a marble structure with a single arch, measuring 87 feet across, 24 feet high and 72 feet wide. The bridge was erected in 1888-92 in place of an old wooden structure. Until 1854 this noted bridge was the only one which united the eastern and western sections of the city. One won- ders why people should build a city at such a place, but VENICE. 247 it is easier to ask questions than to answer them. The principal reason is that the place was established by people who traded on the sea. Venice is a very old city. The early settlers were of the Illyrian race. Already in the third century be- fore the Christian era the people entered into an alliance with the Romans. In 697 A. D. Venice formed a con- federation with several other towns on the coast, with a Doge (Latin Dux) as the head or ruler. The city soon became prosperous through its vast maritime commerce, and in the fifteentb century, at the height of its great- ness, had a population of 200,000. At present there are about 150,000 inhabitants. The city in the Middle Ages had vast colonies in various parts of the East. But the capture of Constantinople by the Turks in 1453 turned the tide against Venice. In 1718 she lost all her Oriental possessions, and from this time onward Venice no longer occupied a prominent place in history. In 1797 the French captured the city, but in making peace with Austria, yielded Venice to the latter. The Austrians afterwards ceded it to Italy, but reoccupied it in 1814. Later on Venice, which had in 1848 de- clared itself a republic, was besieged for fifteen months and finally surrendered to the French. In 1866 Napo- leon III. ceded Venice to Victor Emmanuel, who united it with Italy. The principal part of Venice is St. Mark's Place, on the Grand Canal. Here are located St. Mark's cathedral, the Doge's Palace and other places of interest. At this point thousands of people gather in the evening to hear the music of a good band, and to enjoy social intercourse. The thousands of lights on the gondolas 248 RAMBLES IN EUHOPE. floating on the canal present a unique and interesting sight. It is remarkable that these many boats on the water in the evening do not often collide. The lights are reflected in the water, so that there seem to be twi«e as many as there really are. St. Mark's cathedral is the pride of Venice. It is claimed that the bones of St. Mark, one of the Apostles, were brought from Alexandria to Venice in 829 and buried in this church. This legend has been denied. Commenced in 830, the cathedral, after a fire, was re- built in 976. In the eleventh century it was completely tranformed into its present style, the Byzantine. The church is 246 feet long and 112 feet wide, and has five domes. The exterior and interior are adorned with more than 500 marble columns, and the interior with numerous mosaics. In the days of the Venetian re- public, the Doge, on festival occasions, used to attend divine services at St. Mark's with great pomp and ceremony. The interior of the church is richly adorned with marble, gold, mosaics and bronze. Nearly the whole of the ceiling is in mosaic. Fourteen marble statues of St. Mark, the Virgin and the Apostles surmount the screen which fences off" the choir. An altar back of the the high altar has four magnificent alabaster columns. The floor of this church is very uneven. People need to exercise care so as not to fall. During our visit sev- eral tourist leaders were lecturing to their parties in the church whilst several priests were celebrating mass. There was not much confusion. A number of monks were present with sandals on their bare feet. One of the sights in front of St. Mark's church is the hundreds of pigeons which make their home in St. VENICE. 249 Mark^s Square. These were formerly fed at the govern- ment's expense, but are now cared for by the people. There are men at hand who sell corn in small quantities to visitors, who then feed the docile birds. A number of pigeons ate out of my hand. Tradition says that a certain Doge brought a lot of pigeons to Venice and gave them as presents to many poor people. He told them to fatten the pigeons for their Easter dinner. The people did as requested, but several pigeons escaped and took refuge in the cornices and towers of St. Mark's church, where they were not disturbed, because they were supposed to be under the care of the patron saint. Every Easter these multiplying pigeons received a double portion of food at public expense. In front of St. Mark's church are three decorated flagstails, surmounted by winged lions. From these once floated silk and gold banners, representing Candia, Cyprus and Morea, the three possessions of Venice. On the north and south St. Mark's Place is bounded by the so-called Procuratie, once the residences of the nine Procurators, the chief officials of the republic. The first floors of these buildings, flanked with arcades, are occupied with shops and cafes. Near the cathedral stands the large and splendid new campanile on the site of the famous old one which collapsed in 1902. The old one was 323 feet high. Its erection was commenced in 902. The erection of the new campanile (bell tower) was commenced in 1903, and was nearly completed at the time of our visit in July, 1910. It is a large square brick edifice and makes an imposing appearance. Another prominent object at this place is the high clock 17 250 EAMBLES IN EUROPE. tower, built in 1496-99, with its large dial and two bronze figures above, which strike the hours on the bell. Another building at St. Mark's Place is the old Palace of the Doges, the former rulers of the republic. This palace is supposed to date from about 814, and in the course of its long history underwent numerous changes. In the front there are arcades on the two lower floors. " On the upper arcade two colums of red marble mark the place whence the Republic caused its sentences of death to be proclaimed." A.t one corner of the building there is a marble relief representing the Judgment of Solomon. Another relief represents two warriors embracing each other. The Doges used to be crowned at the top of the Giants' Stairway, where stand two statues of Mars and Neptune. One of the rooms is the CoUegio, in which the Council, presided over by the Doge, held its delib- erations. In another room the Senate of the republic held its sessions. There are some fine paintings in these halls. Still another room was the " meeting place of the famous Council of Ten, which supervised the affairs of the republic, but which after the sixteenth century degenerated into a tyrannical inquisition." On the middle floor are the rooms of the Great Council, to which every nobleman over twenty belonged. The largest of these rooms contains numerous wall paint- ings of great size. On the frieze under the ceiling are the portraits of 76 Doges from 801 to 1559. A black tablet occupies the place of Doge Marino Faliero, who was beheaded in 1355 as a conspirator. In this room is the largest oil painting in the world. It represents Para- dise, and is 23 feet high and 72 feet long, and contains VENICE. 261 a very large number of figures. The Library connected with the palace is said to contain 120,000 volumes and 12,000 manuscripts. The palace is connected with the old prison, which we also visited. The cells are low and very dark. Not BRIDGE OF SIGHS, VENICE MSSM%^ much consideration was shown for prisoners in olden times. In this dreary place many a political offender was imprisoned, tortured and executed. The visitor is filled with sadness as he passes through this place and recalls its dark pages in history. The Palace is con- nected with the prison by the famous Bridge of Sighs 252 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. so-called because many of the condemned passing over it into prison never returned. The Academy of Arts contains 700 paintings, many of which are considered master-pieces, nearly all by Venetian artists. We felt that we had to take a gondola ride. Else- where we rode in carriages or trolly cars, in trains under the ground, etc. Here there is only one mode of travel- ing — in boats. We employed a gondolier for so much an hour. After entering the gondola we could not start until we had given a fee to a bystander who had steadied the boat while we stepped in. We were rowed over the Grand Canal until beyond the Rialto bridge, after which we returned through numerous back canals. These are narrow, and everywhere the water is very dirty. Much offal is dumped into the water, and the wonder is that pestilence does not result. The gondo- liers by a peculiar yell give notice to others as they ap- proach a corner. We passed under numerous bridges, mostly of stone, by many warehouses where goods were being loaded into, or unloaded from, boats. Every- where there was nothing but canals, boats, and build- ings with sides running down into the water. All build- ings rest upon piles, driven into the marshy ground. Do not these piles rot soon, being always wet ? No. It is a fact that wood does not decay as long as it is in the water. I must confess that in a general way I did not care much for Venice. I liked it less than any city that we visited. I would not live in a place where there are no streets, but only canals with dirty water. Those who were born here and know no better are likely satis- fied. I was glad when the ame of departure came. VENICE. 253 Venice is a Catholic city, and has been such for many centuries. But there are also a few Evangelical churches. The history of these latter is characterized by numerous trials and persecutions. Although a thoroughly Catholic city, the Reforma- tion took root here at an early period. There was a German settlement in Venice as farly as 1600, consist- ing principally of merchants. Already in 1532 a Venetian bookseller published a Protestant Bible in the Italian language — two years before the publication of Luther's German Bible. This is a remarkable fact. Before this time Luther's writings were read to a con- siderable extent in Venice. In 1529 Luther wrote a letter to friends in the city. About this time a certain priest preached to some extent Evangelical doctrines here. Then came the Inquisition which suppressed the truth largely and for a long time. About the year 1650 a German Evangelical congre- gation was organized in Venice, which has had a con- tinued history down to the present time, a period of 250 years. During this long period there have been twenty- four pastors. The constitution of 1660 indi- cates the trials of the congregation. In order to avoid persecution the members were admonished to come to church and depart one by one. Women did not attend church except at communion. No one was to impart in- formation in reference to meetings. No singing was had in the services for fear of giving offence. During the services some one stood guard at the door. At first the pastors passed in the community as merchants or physicians. The first pastor was banished from the city in 1654 ; the second one died suddenly, supposedly 254 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. from poison received in a cloister. In the course of time religious toleration was proclaimed. For a Jong time the German Protestants were allowed only preaching. All other ministrations had to be performed by Roman priests. Then there were many difficulties on account of burial places. It is a wonder that under such circumstances the Protestant organiza- tion could be maintained. It shows that these Germans in Venice had a firm love for Evangelical truth in their hearts; otherwise they would not have endured all these persecutions. CHAPTER XVL-QTY OF ROME^ The Eternal City.— Its Many Churches. — St. Peter's Chureh.~The Vatican.— Magnifleent Churches. Roman Forum.— Colosseum.— Forum of Tra- jan.— Royal Palace.— Castle of St. An- gelo.— St. Sebastian Gate.— The Appian Way.— The Catacombs. UR party spent eight days in the city of Rome, Italy (Rom in German ; Roma in Italian). It was with feelings of peculiar interest that we approached this great ancient and modern munici- pality, known as the " eternal city " and the " city built upon seven hills." It is worth while to visit Europe to see Rome alone. As we approached the city we saw for a long distance the ruins of the great aqueducts which supplied ancient Rome with good water from distant mountains. The first acqueduct was built in 312 before Christ. There were fourteen in all, with an aggregate length of 351 miles. The many arches and solid masonry of this work show how well the old Romans built. Evidences of this fact are seen everywhere in and around the city. Of the seven hills of Rome the most important are the Capitoline, Palatine and the Quirinal. The hills were originally fortified. Rome was once the metrop- olis of the ancient world ; afterwards for centuries the residence of the Popes, and has been since 1871 the capital of the kingdom of Italy. The city is located fifteen miles from the Mediter- ranean Sea, on both sides of the river Tiber, which here 256 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. is spanned by twelve bridges. Its history goes back to about 753 years before the birth of Christ. This fact alone lends intense interest to the place. Here people have come, lived and gone during more than 2,500 years. The reputed founder of Rome was Romulus, the first king, who took up his residence on the Palatine Hill on April 21, B. C. 753. Later he conquered the Capitoline and Quirinal hills. Rome has passed through many and great changes. Originally the Tiber was navigable up to the city and this fact brought pros- perity. In the year A. D. 64 Nero, perhaps the most cruel ruler, set ^fire to the city, laying the blame upon the Christians and in this way causing the death of multitudes of them. The greater part of the city was destroyed. It was rebuilt in a more regular and better form. At the beginning of the second century the population was about 1,000,000. But in the year 330 Constantine removed the capital of the empire from Rome to Constantinople, until then called Byzantium. This act caused a rapid decline of Rome, and it was during a long time of little significance. In the middle of the fourteenth century the population had been reduced to 20,000. At the beginning of the sixteenth century the population was not more than 85,000. Since then it has increased again, so that by the end of the papal rule (in 1870) it had risen to 221,000. At the present time it is upwards of 500,000. During centuries Rome was the capital of the Pope's political government, which up to 1859 extended over 3,000,000 Italians. The Pope had an army like other rulers. This continued until 1870, when the army ROME. 257 of Victor Emmanuel, who had unified Italy, marched into Rome and made an end of the Pope's temporal rule. A magnificent monument is now being erected in Rome to the memory of that monarch, which, when completed, will be 208 feet high and cost about $5,000,- 000, and in front of it will be a figure of King Emmanuel on horseback. It will be the largest and most magnifi- cent monument of its kind in the world. Christianity was introduced into Rome about the middle of the first century, and it gradually made great progress, but in the face of awful persecutions. The fiercest was that of Diocletian in 303, which, however, failed to suppress Christianity. In 313 Constantine the Great proclaimed religious toleration, and soon after, having himself embraced Christianity, he made this the state religion. Rome has during centuries been a thoroughly Cath- olic city. The Popes have been supreme rulers of a despotic kind. The city was no place for dissenters. But in recent years a remarkable change has occurred in the sentiment of the people. It seems almost in- credible that the present Mayor of Rome is a Jew (Sig- ner Nathan), who is ardently opposed to the Pope. In the fall of 1910 Rome celebrated the fortieth anniver- sary of its liberation from the power of the Vatican, and in an address Mr. Nathan made a scathing attack on the Pope and his methods. The Mayor charged the Pontiff with keeping his people in the bondage of ignor- ance and under the domination of his priests and him- self, forbidding them not only to read the Bible, but also other literature of enlightenment and education. It is marvellous that such a thing can occur in Rome, 258 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the headquarters of the powerful hierarchy. The four men representing Rome in the National Parliament are opponents of the Roman Church. According to the last census of Italy, of 30,000,000 people 10,000,000 declared that they have no religious connection. Many of the government officials are also said to be against the Pope. In Rome there are over 300 Catholic churches, many of which are large and old. Eighty of these are dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. There are also 14 Protes- tant churches, which are an eyesore to the Pope and his associates. Numerous priests wearing black gowns, and black hats greatly resembling those of the Amish people of Pennsylvania, live in the city. These, with the monks, nuns and soldiers, form a large proportion of Rome's population. Great quantities of precious metals have been lavished upon the decoration of the jcity's many churches. As one looks at these things, he is re- minded of the fact that the Church of Rome can no longer say with Peter : " Silver and gold have I none.'' The grandest building in the city is St. Peter's church, the largest house of worship in Christendom. It is a rare treat to anyone to see this wonderful build- ing. (See picture.) The church stands at the western edge of the city. The first church at this place was erected by Emperor Constantine "at the request of Pope Sylvester I. (314-36) over the supposed grave of St, Peter." It was surrounded with chapels and monas- teries. It was at the high altar in this church that Charlemagne on December 25, 800, received the Roman imperial crown from Pope Leo III., and many later emperors were also crowned here. ST. Peter's church. 259 This first St. Peter's church gradually became di- lapidated. In 1452 Pope Nicholas V. commenced the erection of the present large and magnificent structure, but he died already in 1455, when the walls had reached only the level of the ground. The work was allowed to rest for fifty years^ when Pope Julius II. commenced it again. A number of architects had charge of the work, among them the famous Michael Angelo. Ber- nini was the last architect. The work proceeded slowly and there were frequent changes in the plans. It was not until 1626 that the church was completed and dedi- cated on November 18 of that year by Pope Urban VIII., on the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the first St. Peter's church at the same place. The great church covers 18,000 square yards, whilst the cathedral at Milan covers 14,000 square yards, St. Paul's in London 9,450, and the Cologne cathedral 7,340. The interior length is 615 feet and the height 150 feet. The great dome to the top of the cross is 435 feet high. We climbed to the top of the dome over hundreds of steps, and from that point obtained a beau- tiful view of the city and its surroundings. The approach to the church is grand and elaborate. On the north and south sides are long semi- circular colonnades. There are 284 columns and 84 pillars, arranged in four rows. The central passage is wide enough for two carriages going abreast. On the top of the colonnades are 162 statues of saints. Some distance from the front of the church stands an obelisk which was brought from Heliopolis, Egypt, and placed here in 1586. It is 84 feet in height. At the sides are two fountains, 45 feet high. Many wide steps lead up to 260 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the church, the front of which consists of a portico. Above the portico stand colossal statues of Christ and the Apostles. The whole makes a profound impres- sion. There is a cruel act connected with this spot. His- tory tells us that after Nero had set the city of Rome on fire and blamed the Christians for the act, he had many of them, after saturating their clothing with pitch, tied to posts and burned as torches to illuminate his Vatican Garden for the entertainment of the cruel em- peror's friends. This is said to have occurred in the space in front of the present St. Peter's church, with the site of the obelisk as a centre. The church proper is entered by five large doors. The most northerly one is called '' the sacred door,'' which is opened only once every twenty- five years, and then by the Pope. On the door is painted a huge cross. The interior of the church is grand and beautiful. Soon after entering through the central door one finds a round slab of porphyry in the pavement, which lay in front of the high altar in the old church. On this slab stood the former emperors when they were crowned by the Popes. The building contains fewer pictures than most churches, and one of the peculiar features is the plain glass in the windows. This is in striking contrast to the beautiful colored windows in many Roman churches. To the right is a bronze sitting statue of St. Peter, sup- posed to be from the fifth century. The right foot is extended and the large toe is worn smooth by the kisses of the devotees. On a Sunday morning I stood here a while to look at the many people who came to kiss St. Peter's toe. Each one wiped the toe before ST. Peter's church. 261 kissiDg it, some with their handkerchiefs, others with their coat sleeves. Parents lifted up little children to enjoy the privilege. My sympathy went out to a lady in mourning. She seemed sad and no doubt had lost some dear friend by death. She lingered a long time, and repeatedly kissed St. Peter's toe and with her right hand stroked his whole foot. She sought a blessing from the saint. I thought to myself : " O for another Zwingli who would lead these poor deluded people directly to Christ instead of the saints for comfort and forgiveness, as he did so heroically at Einsiedeln." The great dome is a beautiful work of art. It rests upon four huge pillars. Above are mosaic pictures of the Evangelists. This dome, which is very high, sheds a flood of Jight upon the whole church below. There are two galleries in the dome, one above the other, from each of which the view into the church below is mag- nificent. There are numerous altars along the north and <50uth sides of the church, where priests celebrate mass. These altars are of the finest material. But the princi- pal attraction is the great high altar under the large dome, at which the Pope alone celebrates mass. This was dedicated in 1594, and over it was erected in 1633 s. canopy with four gilded spiral columns. In front of the high altar is the " Confessio," with 89 continuously burning lamps mounted on the enclosing balustrade. In this enclosure there is a large marble statue of Pope Pius VI. in the attitude of prayer. In the rear of the high altar is the Pope's throne, in- cluding St. Peter's chair. The latter is now encased in ebony. No one except the Pope may occupy this chair. 262 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. This place is also enclosed. One of our party asked the man in charge whether any one might sit in St. Peter's chair, but the man seemed horrified at the sug- gestion and exclaimed with emphasis : '^ Only Pope.'* The throne is of course richly adorned with gold. There are numerous " confessionals'' — places where the people can confess their sins to the priests in many languages. In the left transcept alone people of ten different languages can be accommodated. The question naturally arises, what is the seating capacity of St. Peter's church ? The size of a church is usually determined in our minds in this way. Sev- eral years ago I sought information on this subject, but found none. I read several descriptions of the great church, but no answer was found to the question. The fact is that the great church has no seats. This may seem strange, but it is true here as in the case of other Catholic churches. Some have a small number of seats. In many churches most people stand while the priests celebrate mass. We have been in churches when several thousand persons were present, and over one- half standing. In St. Peter's church all the people stand during a service. It is usually stated that the church can hold 50,000 people, and I suppose that is a fact. The church is of course seldom, if ever, filled. On a Sunday morn- ing, when we visited the place a second time, there were probably several thousand people in the building, but they were scattered widely, and the church looked al- most empty. Only on special occasions are crowds present. A large proportion of those present on the above occasion were tourists. ST. Peter's church. 263 Throughout the church we find many statues and monuments of former Popes, also some fine paintings at the numerous altars. The church contains a chime of bells which is heard at a considerable distance. It would be interesting to know the cost of the erection of this remarkable building. But it is ques- tionable whether this is known. The church was a long time in building. It is stated that up to the be- ginning of the eighteenth century the cost had aggre- gated about $50,000,000. The cost of maintaining the church runs into many thousands of dollars per year. We must see the Crypt, which is in the basement of the great church. Of course we must purchase tickets. In the Crypt are deposited the bodies of many eminent Catholics. Right under the high altar are the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul. So it is said. We saw their richly adorned coffins — sarcophagi as they are called. (In another church in Rome the heads of these two apostles are said to be buried under the altar.) Can it be possible that we stood before the remains of the two great apostles of Jesus ? Nearby are also the coffins of Simon and another apostle. As in the case of many other Roman and Episcopal churches, the basement of St. Peter's church is a graveyard. The tombs are of rich material and represent great wealth. Whilst inspecting St. Peter's church strange thoughts are apt to fill the mind of the visitor. On this spot people have been worshipping God, in their peculiar way, during many hundreds of years, and as early as sixteen centuries ago. Truly this must be a sacred place. The form of worship is not according to our notion, but we must judge others from their point of 264 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. view, if we would be just to them. Millions of people have come here to worship the Lord and receive His blessing, and in so far as they were sincere and acted according to the best light they had, they did not come in vain. Yet we cannot help wishing that they might know that there is certainly a better way to worship the Lord in spirit and in truth. Immediately to the north of St. Peter's church is the famous Vatican. By this term people understand the residence of the Pope. They think of it as a vast palace, with hundreds of rooms, in which the Pope lives in splendor, like most kings and emperors. But this is an erroneous view. The Vatican is a series of large buildings containing about 1000 halls, chapels and rooms. By far the greater part of these buildings is occupied by the art galleries, museums and state apart- ments. The real residence of the Pope is a compara- tively small house on the east side of the Vatican, sur- rounded by trees and gardens. His residence is shown visitors from a window of one of the art galleries by an attendant (of course for a small fee). The collections of paintings and sculptures in the Vatican are simply immense and cannot be described. In extent they are rivalled only by the collections in the Louvre galleries in Paris. There are also numer- ous works of tapestry of superior character. Many of the paintings are very old and famous. The most famous are those in the old Sistine chapel. This is the papal palace chapel, erected under Pope Sixtus IV., in 1473-81. The paintings in this large place are all Bible scenes as conceived by the artists. The largest and the most noted is the Last Judgment by Michael Angelo MAGNIFICENT CHURCHES. 265 (1534-41). It is 66 by 33 feet in size. It has been dimmed by age, but is still admired by thousands. We visited the chapel soon after opening in the morning in order to avoid the usual crowd, but still the place was thronged when we reached it. Many of the paintings are by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Bernini, etc. The Vatican Library is a very large one. It was founded about 1450, and now contains about 250,000 volumes and 34,000 manuscripts. The largest of the 80 churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary is Santa Maria Maggiore. Tradition says that Mary in a dream ordered Pope Liberius to build a church in her honor at the place where he should discover snow on the following day, which was August 6. He of course obeyed, and erected a church which was subsequently greatly enlarged. The first gold brought from America was used in decorating the splendid ceiling in 1493-08. There are 40 beautiful Ionic columns in the interior, 36 of marble and 4 of granite. Inside the high altar, it is claimed, reposes the body of St. Matthew, and under this altar five boards from the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid are said to be kept. In the Borghese chapel of this church ' there hangs an old miraculous picture of the Virgin said to have been painted by St. Luke. In the Sistine chapel of this church is the tomb and monument of Pope Pius V. We were told that by paying a fee we could be shown the body of this Pope. We paid the fee, the guide opened a lid at the side of the tomb and we saw a form like that of a man enshrouded in rich garments. We had thought that if we could not see the living Pope, we might at least see a dead one. 18 266 RAMBLES IN EUKOPE. The most peculiar church buildiug in Rome is the Pantheon. It was originally erected in 27 before Christ Lightning having injured it, the building was reconstructed by Emperor Hadrian, who ruled from 117 to 138. It was a heathen temple until 609, when Boniface lY. dedicated it as a Christian church. The walls are 22 feet thick. The large porch in front is borne by 16 Corinthian columns which are 41 feet high. The building is circular in form. There are no windows except a circular opening in the top of the dome, which is without glass and admits enough light to illuminate the large building very well. The dome is as wide as high — 142 feet each way. There are seven large niches in the walls in which originally stood statues of heathen gods. In this church are the tombs of Victor Emmanuel^ who died in 1878, and Humbert I., who died in 1900, both kings of Italy. Here is also the tomb of Raphael, the famous artist, who died in 1520. Near the Pantheon is a large square, in the centre of which on a pedestal stands Barnini's marble ele- phant carrying an antique obelisk on its back. The Santa Maria Sopra Minerva church stands upon the ruins of the heathen temple of Minerva^ which was erected by the Emperor Domitian. Com- menced in 1280 and restored in the 19 th century, this is the only Gothic church in Rome that has come down from mediaeval times. The church contains a famous statue by Michael Angelo representing the Risen Christ. Lest the right foot of this beautiful statue be worn away by the kisses of worshippers it has been encased in a bronze shoe. The Church of St. John the Lateran is one of the most interesting. It is located some distance southeast MAGNIFICENT CHURCHES. 267 of the Colosseum. This was the first Christian church in the city and dates from the time of Constantine. It was the cathedral of Rome until the rebuilding of St. Peter's. After its re-erection in 904-11 it was dedi- cated to John the Baptist. It required several recon- structions to bring the church to its present state of per- fection. St. John's contains an altar for the use of the Pope or his substitute in which, it is said, the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved. Pope Martin V., who died in 1431, is buried in this church. There are also monuments to several other Popes, and colossal statues of the Apostles. Near the church stood the building in which the Popes resided from the time of Constantine until their removal to Avignon in 1305. The building was destroyed by fire in 1308. The site is now occupied by the Lateran Palace, which at present is used as a museum. Here is found a good collection of ancient works of art. The paintings all represent Bible scenes. Nearby is the famous Scala Santa (Sacred Staircase), consisting of 28 marble steps, which is said to have been a part of the judgment hall of Pilate, and to have been ascended by Christ when brought before the Eoman governor. The staircase was removed from Jerusalem to Rome by the Empress Helena about the year 326. At the top stands an altar. There is also a staircase on each side of the sacred one, upon which the penitents usually descend. We went up and down one of them. People are taught to believe that if they ascend this stairway upon their knees and recite a prayer upon each step and meditate upon the sufferings of Christ, they will obtain forgiveness for their sins. I secured a 268 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. booklet at the entrance which contains 28 short prayers for use here. A picture card contains the alleged his- tory of the staircase. Pope Pius VII. extended the benefits of this service even to the souls in Purgatory. Thus persons, by ascending the staircase in the manner indicated, could secure the release of their departed relatives or friends from Purgatory. We are informed that Pope Pius IX. for the last time ascended the stair- case on Sept. 19, 1870, and shed copious tears while doing so. At the, time of our visit two women were going through this process. Their progress was slow and we could not wait until they had completed their task. Martin Luther also sought relief through this exercise, but found none. We could not help pitying the two women, who, following one of the many super- stitions of their Church, went through this ceremony. At the entrance stands a statue representing Judas be- traying Jesus with a kiss. We left the place thankful that we were taught a better way to secure deliverance from sin. The church called San Pietro in Vincoli, which also is quite ancient, is specially noted as containing the large statue of Moses by Michael Angelo. Moses is represented as having short horns and as being angry at the Jews' apostasy. There are also statues of Rachel and Leah. Under the high altar are kept the so-called chains of St. Peter, which we were allowed to see upon the payment of a fee. According to tradition, one of the chains bound Peter in prison at Jerusalem, whilst the other held him fast in the Mamertine prison at Rome. The two chains were united into one by a miracle. Having seen the precious relic we reserved MAGNIFICENT CHURCHES. 269 the right to credit or disbelieve the story, as we saw fit. The tradition serves the Church at least one good pur- pose -it brings in revenue. The large and beautiful St. Paul's church is located at the edge of the city. This church was founded in 386 by Yalentinian II. and Theodosius. In 1823 it was nearly burned down, but after being rebuilt it was again dedicated in 1854. The front of the building, with its magnificent portico of granite columns, each consisting of a single stone, looks towards the Tiber river. This part is still unfinished. The inside is wonderfully beautiful. Two rows of highly polished granite columns, eighty in all, run down the middle of the church. With a length of 396 feet, a width of 195 feet, and a height of 75 feet, the interior, especially when viewed from the western end, is magnificent. There are four alabaster columns at the high altar, and two more at the main entrance, all of which were pre- sented by the Khedive of Egypt. Prominent among the decorations are large paintings of scenes taken from the life of St. Paul, and a series of mosaic portraits of all the Popes, about 200 in number. These produce a fine effect. The church is said to have cost nearly one and one-half million dollars. From St. PauPs church we were driven a few miles to the Abbey of the Three Fountains, which commem- orates the traditional place of St. Paul's execution. Ac- cording to the legend, the Apostle's head, after its sev- erance from the body, bounded three times, and caused three fountains to spring forth where it touched the earth. Over each fountain there is an altar, with an opening, through which, with a dipper provided for 270 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the purpose, a drink of water may be secured. Of course we drank of the water. This is another of Rome's superstitions. The fact is that a small stream of water flows under the building and a *' fountain" could be opened at any point. On account of the ma- laria prevalent in that region the old abbey was for a long time unoccupied, but in 1868 the place was given to a number of French Trappists, who by means of drainage, etc., brought about a great improvement. The monks conduct a little shop in which they sell various kinds of cards and trinkets. The church of Santa Maria della Concezione is a unique place of worship, belonging to the Capuchin monks. This society was founded in 1626. When one of these monks dies he is buried in one of the four chambers in the basement of the church. The avail- able place for graves is always full, so that whenever a death occurs the corpse that has been buried the longest is exhumed to make room for the new one. The bones are then cleaned and neatly piled up, or used for decorating the ceiling and walls of the burial cham- bers, which thus present a rather gruesome appearance. But it is interesting to see how artistically the skulls and bones are arranged. As in so many other Catholic churches, bones play an important part here. This church is of interest to tourists also because in the first chapel to the right as one enters there is a celebrated painting by Guido Rani, viz., St. Michael slaying the Demon. The Gesu is the principal church of the Jesuits in Rome. Erected in the sixteenth century, its interior is lavishly decorated, as might be expected. BAMBINO CHURCH. 271 The French national church is a large and substan- tial old building, dating from 1689. This church con- tains fine frescos from the life of the popular St. Cecilia. In one the saint distributes clothing to the poor ; in another she and her betrothed are crowned by an angel ; in another she suffers martyrdom, and in still another she is admitted to heaven. A place of peculiar interest is the so-called Bam- bino church on the Capitoline Hill. 124 wide steps lead up to the church. The site was originally occu- pied by a temple of Juno. Nearby was the temple of Jupiter, dedicated in the year 509 before Christ. The church was mentioned already in the eighth century. Its present name, Santa Maria in Aracoeli, means " St. Mary on the Altar of Heaven,'' and " dates from the 12th century, when a legend pointed this out as the spot where the Sibyl of Tibur announced the birth of Christ to Emperor Augustus.'' The principal object of inter- est in this church is the " Bambino," or image of Christ as a babe. It is made of olive wood, and is held in great veneration for its supposed miraculous power of healing the sick. It is literally covered with gold watches, rings, precious stones, etc., presented by people who supposed themselves to have been cured by its power. There are also many letters which have been ivritten to the child-image by people who implored its help. This is perhaps the most glaring case of idolatry that we have met. From Christmas Day to Epiphany (Jan. 6) every afternoon children deliver recitations ad- dressed to the image. Near this church in the garden of a hospital is the old Tarpeian Rock, a high precipice, over which male- factors were formerly thrown to their death. 272 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. We spent some time on the Capitol, which, from afi historical point of view, is the most important of Rome's seven hills. On top of the hill is a large open space. Here are two fine statues of Emperor Constan- tine and his son Constans, and two old milestones. A fine bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius,. one of the best of the Roman Emperors, who was born A. D. 121, graces the centre of the square. One of the buildings fronting on the Capitol Square is the Palazzo del Senatore, a mediaeval building which has been greatly improved by the addition of a beauti- ful staircase and a new front. The palace is now used as the city hall and as an office building. The Capitoline Museum on this hill is famous all over the world for its rich treasures of ancient sculp- tures, ranking next after the Vatican in importance among Roman collections of antiquities. The ancient Romans had a secure place for their archives. On the way from the Capitol to the Romaa Forum we passed the ruins of the old Tabularium, which was erected in the year 78 before Christ for the safekeeping of the public records. It consisted of a fivefold series of vaults. During the Middle Ages the vaults were used as a storehouse for salt. A place of surpassing interest is the Roman Forum, which lies a short distance southeast of the Capitol. Here are many ruins of magnificent ancient structures, which convey an idea of Rome's splendor in the days of its prime. They also show how unstable is all earthly glory. The Forum was originally a market place, later a place of public meetings, and in time became the centre of the Roman government. In this ROMAN FORUM. 27S large place were magnificent public buildings, temples, columns, triumphal arches and statues. The glory of the place continued until the sixth century, when for about a thousand years its beautiful structures were de- molished and parts of them were used in the erection of churches and other buildings. Gradually the once grand Forum was turned into a heap of ruins, and parts of the ancient pavement are even now deeply buried beneath the debris. It is claimed that this place of Roman splendor in the course of time became the haunts of buffaloes and oxen from the country. Since 1870, when Victor Em- manuel took possession of the city, the excavations of the Forum have been conducted thoroughly. A fine view of the Forum may be had from the foot of the Capitol. We wandered all over the place which is about 2J acres in extent. Here paganism ruled su- preme until the fourth century after Christ. The ruins of some of the heathen temples are still here ; but those of others have disappeared. Of the Temple of Saturn eight columns still remain. This temple was dedicated in the year 497 before Christ. The old Tribune, from which the orators spoke, and which dates from the time of Augustus, is indicated by a raised platform. A flight of steps leads down to a group of very ancient monu- ments, one of which is supposed to mark the grave of Romulus, the founder of R-ome. The inscriptions can- not be deciphered. They are said to have been intel- ligible to only a few even in Cicero's time. Is it possible that we stood at the grave of Romulus, who died in the year 716 before Christ? The Triumphal Arch of Severus was erected in the year A. D. 203. It is a marble monument, 75 feet high and 82 feet wide. 274 RAMBLES IK EUROPE. At the northwestern edge of the Forum stands a large brick building which was the house of the Roman Senate, erected by Julius Csesar, who was assassinated B. C. 44. This fact shows the great age of the build- ing — upwards of 2,000 years. A number of tombs have been cut into the side of the structure. One of the bodies buried here is partly exposed to view. In 625 the Senate building was converted into a church. The Temple of Csesar stood on the east side of the Forum, and its foundations are still visible. This temple was built by Augustus on the spot where Mark An- thony delivered his famous funeral address over Julius Caesar's dead body. He held up the bloody robes of the murdered dictator, which greatly excited the people. Csesar was ** honored " by having his body burned in the famous Roman Forum. Alas what honor ! We re- called chese facts as we stood on this historic spot. In the Forum stood also the house of the Pontifex Maximus, the highest official of pagan worship among the old Romans. It is somewhat strange that the Pope of Rome should bear the same official title. The Arch of Titus is a famous and well-preserved monument. It is a memorial to Titus, the Roman general, who afterwards became Emperor, and com- memorates his defeat of the Jews and the destruction of Jerusalem in the year A. D. 70. His was a bloody victory, since about one milliou Jews perished in that war. The Arch is a massive structure, encased in marble. On one of the sides is a relief of the triumphant procession with Jewish captives. The relief also shows the table with shew head and the golden candlestick with seven branches, taken from the temple at Jerusa- lem, which was destroyed. GREAT ARCHES. 275 A similar structure is the Arch of Constantine, which stands not far from the one mentioned above. The great arch was dedicated to Emperor Constantine after his victory over his rival Maxentius. The battle occurred in the year A. D. 312 near Rome and resulted AP.CH OF TITUS, PvOME. in a complete victory for Constantine the Great. Max- entiiis in his flight was drowned in the river Tiber. There is a legend that there appeared to Constantine a flaming cross in the heavens, bearing the inscription : " In this sign conquer." Next year Constantine issued 276 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the edict of Milan, which granted full liberty of wor- ship. This was a great boon to the Christians. In A. D. 324 he proclaimed Christianity as the state re- ligion of Rome. Heathen temples were closed and sacrifices forbidden. The Arch of Constantine of course bears marks of the ravages of time. But it is remark- ably well preserved after having withstood the elements nearly 1,600 years. Near the Arch of Constantine stand the ruins of a colossal statue of the sun god, which stood in front of Nero's'.Golden House. This was the magnificent palace of Nero, which he erected soon after the great confla- gration in A, D. 64, started by his own orders. Here the cruel tyrant lived in great splendor, but after his death the Golden House soon became dilapidated. In the Forum stood also the great milestone, from which all distances in the vast empire were measured. On the north side of the Forum stands the Mamer- tine Prison, one of the oldest buildings in the city. There are two chambers, one above the other, the lower being 19 feet long, 10 feet wide and 6| feet high. Originally the only communication with the lower dungeon was by means of a hole in the floor of the upper chamber, through which the prisoners were let down. Here many of Rome's powerful antagonists were incarcerated and executed. There is a small well in the lower dungeon. There is a tradition that St. Peter, when imprisoned in this cell, by a miracle opened a spring here to enable him to baptize his con- verted jailors. The chain which bound St. Peter was shown us in one of the churches, as mentioned above. There are many other old landmarks in the Forum, including various temples, whose sites are pointed out. THE COLOSSEUM. 277 but we can tarry no longer. There are said to have been about three hundred temples in Rome, of course all heathen. A considerable number of them were later turned into Christian churches. Continuing our journey eastward we soon came to the wonderful Colosseum, the largest theatre the world has ever seen. It was opened by Titus in the year 80. The great structure is in the form of an ellipse. Its COLOSSEUM AT ROME. circumference is 1,722 feet and its height 158 feet. The outside is of stone, but the inside of the walls is of brick. Earlier Roman playhouses were constructed of wood. Tacitus mentions one such at Fidenae, dnring the reign of Tiberius, whose collapse is said to have killed or in- jured 50,000 persons. The Colosseum covers five acres of ground. Its seating capacity is differently given ; one authority says there were 50,000 seats ; another 87,000. 278 KAMBLES IN EUKOPE. The Colosseum was erected for gladitorial fights and for combats with wild animals. These sports show the barbarous tastes of the pagan Romans. They greatly enjoyed seeing men and animals tearing one another to pieces. At the opening of the building, 6,000 wild animals were slain during the contest, which lasted 100 days. But their depraved taste is probably best shown by the fact that many of the early Christians of Rome were placed upon the arena and famished lions turned loose on them who tore them to pieces amid the shouts of 80,000 spectators. Here the noble Ignatius met his death as a martyr. A prominent seat was reserved for the emperor and high officials occupied places of honor near him. The Colosseum occupied a central position in the minds of the Romans. They had a saying : '* While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand. When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall. And when Rome falls with it shall fail the world.'' The Colosseum did fall, and so did Rome, but the world still stands. How was the Colosseum destroyed ? Probably by earthquakes. However, about one third of it is still well preserved. During the Middle Ages the place was used as a fortress. Subseqently many stones were taken from the ruins to be used as material for erecting other buildings, but Benedict XIV., who was Pope from 1740 to 1758, put a stop to this dismantling process by dedicating the interior to the Passion of Christ in memory of the martyrs who had been killed at that place. As it is, the Colosseum is no doubt the largest and grandest ruin in the world. On the western border of the Forum is the Palatine Hill, where Rome really had its beginning. Here FORUM OF TRAJAN. 27^ dwelt Romulus, the founder of the city, and here was born Augustus, who later had his great palace on this hill. Here was also the Temple of Apollo. The only ancient building left is the House of Livia, which is thought to have been the home of Tiberius Claudius Nero, the father of Tiberius. It contains beautiful wall paintings. Since systematic excavations on Palatine Hill were commenced in 1861 many interesting ruins have been laid ,bare, among them the Palace of Augustus, with its great throne room ; the Palace of Septimius Sev- erus, etc. The Forum of Trajan is another place of historic interest. In its prime it was considered one of the wonders of the world. This square consisted of a group of splendid buildings erected A. D. 111-14. Tbepart which has been excavated is about 150 by 360 feet in size. This space contains four rows of broken columns, which mark the site of the Basilica Ulpia, a large place of business. On the north side of this splendid build- ing stood Trajan's Column, and this alone is in a good state of preservation. It is 124 feet high and live feet thick, and consists of large round pieces of solid marble. A 660 foot series of reliefs, depicting incidents in Tra- jan's wars against the Dacians, winds spirally about the whole height of the column. There are 2,500 figures of men, animals and implements of war. They repre- sent the march of a Roman army, the construction of bridges, attacks on forts, and ail the incidents of a military campaign. Trajan, the Roman Emperor, in whose honor the monument was erected, was born about 56. He died in 117, and was buried under the column. 280 RA.MBLES IN EUROPE. His statue formerly surmounted the shaft, but since 1587 one of St. Peter stands in its place. The column has the appearance of great age, as it well may, since it has stood here nearly 1,800 years. It is well pre- served and may still last hundreds of years. A column similar to Trajan's is that of Marcus Aurelius in the Piazza Colonna, a busy square. It is embellished in the same manner, with reliefs represent- ing events in Aurelius' wars against the Marcomanni and other Germanic tribes that lived along the Danube. The column is 98 feet high and is now surmounted by a statue of St. Paul. It is a monument to Marcus Aurelius, a Homan Emperor, who was born in 121 and died in 180. This man twice persecuted the Christians. In the first persecution Polycarp perished; in the second Irenaeus met the same fate. Rome also had to have a pyramid. There is one near St. PauPs Gate, which was erected B. C. 12 over the grave of Gains Cestius, and is 120 feet high. Like most of the old Roman structures it is built of brick and encased in marble. Whilst I may never see one of the great pyramids of Egypt, I had the satisfac- tion of seeing one which resembles those, although it is much smaller. The Royal Palace, in which the King of Italy re- sides, is located on the Quirinal Hill, in the built-up portion of the city. Commenced in 1574, it was sub- sequently enlarged several times. This palace was formerly the Popes' summer residence, because of its healthy location. In this building a number of con- claves were held for the election of Popes. Since 1870 it has been occupied by the King of Italy. We were CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 281 shown through the palace and found it one of the most beautiful we have seen. There are numerous fine paintings in the building. Many of the rooms are very large, and in some respects this palace excels the one at Windsor Castle, England. Rome includes a number of Museums besides the one connected with the Vatican. These contain vast collections of ancient relics found in and around Rome, as well as in Egypt, Greece and other countries. The number of objects is so great that the mind cannot properly appreciate them, especially when the tourist has inspected museums in many other cities. The col- lections in these institutions represent the outlay of vast sums of money and a great deal of labor and re- search. On our way back from St. Peter's church we visited the Castle of St. Angel o, situated on the right bank of the Tiber. This was originally a vast tomb, erected by Emperor Hadrian for himself and his successors. It is a large circular tower, 210 feet in diameter, whose outside was once covered with marble. Marble statues covered the top. All the Roman Emperors down to 217 were buried here. In 537, when Rome was be- sieged by the Goths, the Romans turned the tower into a fortress, since which time it was used for this purpose down to 1379, when the place passed into the posses- sion of the Popes, one of whom, Clement VII., in 1527 went through a fearful siege in it. The tower is sur- mounted by a bronze statue of the Archangel Michael in the act of sheathing his sword, which commemorates Pope Gregory the Great's vision, in which the arch- angel is said to have assured him that the plague of 590 19 282 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. would come to an end. The ancient burial vaults, the chapel of St. Clement, some of the rooms occupied by the Popes, and a few dungeons are shown. We as- cended to the top of the tower, from which we had a fine view of the city. From here we heard the bells of St Peter^s church, which produced a fine effect. In front of the tower is a fine, wide bridge across the Tiber, which was erected by the Emperor Hadrian in the year 135. There are numerous monuments, obelisks, fountains, etc, scattered throughout the city. One of the finest monuments is the bronze equestrian statue of Gen. Graribaldi, the famous Italian soldier, who did so much for the liberation of his native country. Rome is a strange mixture of the ancient and the modem. Nearly everywhere are to be seen ruins of the ancient city in the midst of fine modern buildings. The stranger is impressed with this fact as soon as he leaves the railroad station. Right in front of it are old ruins in the midst of large modern business houses. The city occupies an isolated position in at least one respect Everything in the line of provisions must be brought from a distance. The immediate vicinity is an unfruitful, rather barren plain known as the Campagna. This is a swampy region, of which only about one- tenth is cultivated. The population is very small on account of the prevalence of malaria. This is caused largely by the overflow of the river Tiber. During the winter shepherds dwell there with their flocks, but when May comes they betake themselves to the moun- tains. But it was not always so. In ancient times many beautiful villas stood there and the Campagna THE CATACOICBS. 283 had a large population. This is one of the many in- stances of great changes which take place in the course of time. It would be difficult to find another large city with such desolate surroundings as Eome. Our party spent two Lords' Days in the city of Rome, One Sunday morning we worshipped with the Metho- dists, and found an audience present which completely filled the neat little church. The congregation consists almost entirely of Americans and students. This little flock has been a severe eye- sore to the Pope and his party. In the afternoon I attended a lecture by Dr. N. W. Clark on Protestantism in Italy. He is superin- tendent of the mission work of the Methodist Church in that country. This lecture was exceedingly interest- ing and full of instruction. The Methodists of America and England have about 1 20 preaching places in Italy. Of the 42 ministers 39 are Italians. Then there are 14 local preachers. The Baptists are also doing a good work. Whole villages in the northwestern part of the country are Protestant, The Waldensians are princi- pally in the Piedmont Valley and are well known. Miss Garibaldi, a granddaughter of the famous pioneer soldier in the cause of Italian unity ( Guiseppe Gari- baldi) is at the head of a large Protestant school. The attitudeof a large portion of the people toward Protestant mission work is quite favorable. Many of the best families send their children to mission schools. The famous William Marconi, the inventor of tha wireless telegraph, had his only son baptized by a Methodist minister. Of course we had to visit the catacombs near Rome. We hired a carriage and left the city through 284 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. ot the St. Sebastian Gate, which consists of two immense towers. After leaving our hotel we passed the Colosseum and the Arch of Constantine, and skirted the southern slope of Palatine Hill. Here we saw many ruins of ancient Rome. The fact is, in that re- gion nothing but ruins is found. Among these are the Baths of Caracalla. They are said to have accommo- dated 1,600 people. The old Romans had a number of such public bath houses. That of Diocletian on the Quirinal Hill is said to have had room for 3,600 bathers. At the St. Sebastian Gate we saw a part of the old Roman wall which was erected in the year 100. The two large towers were erected by Emperor Marcus Aure^ius. The wall looks very old, as it really is. Immediately beyond the gate stands a monument to St. Sebastian, at the spot where he suffered martyrdom in 288 under Diocletian. He was a captain of the Pre- torian guard and secretly a Christian. When the Em- peror Diocletian saw that he personally encouraged the Christians who were led out to death, he had Sebastian tied to a stake and directed archers to shoot him to death. A lot of arrows were sent into his body, but he was not actually killed. A pious woman named Irene took him away and nursed him, so that he recovered. As soon as he was well again he boldly faced Diocletian and upbraided him for his cruelty. The Emperor then directed him to be beaten to death, which was done. The art galleries of Italy contain many paintings of St. Sebastian with a lot of arrows sticking in his body. We were now on the famous old Appian Way, which was by an ancient writer ca'led " the queen of THE APPIAN WAY. 286 roads." First constructed in B. C. 313, it is the oldest and most famous of all the old Roman roads, and with its branches connected all parts of southern Italy with Rome. The road is still largely paved with stone blocks, as it was in former ages. It has a very solid foundation, and its construction must have cost an enormous amount of money. In the course of time even the Appian Way shared the general destruction of this region and became covered with rubbish. Ex- cavations from 1850-53 reopened this famous old road as far as Albano. As we passed along over the dusty Appian Way we were reminded of the interesting fact that St. Paul journeyed over this same road on his way to Rome in the year 61, having been sent there because of his ap- peal to Csesar. His eventful sea voyage and land journey are interestingly narrated by Luke in the 27th and 28th chapters of the Acts of the Apostles. Paul landed at Puteoli in the Bay of Naples. At Appi Forum and Three Taverns Christian brethren met Paul, who, when he saw them, " thanked God and took cour- age." He then passed over the Appian Way to the the city of Rome. That was over 1900 years ago. How interesting to think of these facts as we journeyed over the same road ! How different this region was then from now ! Then the Roman Empire was still in its glory. Having reached the great heathen city in charge of the centurion Julius, Paul continued there^a prisoner for two years. He was, however, not closely confined, but allowed to reside in his own rented house. There he employed his time in preaching the gospel to the soldiers who had him in their care, and to others. 286 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. It is said that even some in Caeser's household heard the gospel from the lips of Paul. He also wrote sev- eral of his epistles here. A short distance beyond the St. Sebastian Gate we came to the Qfi.o Va'^U church, a small building so named from a legend that St. Peter, fleeing from a mar- tyr's death, met his Master here and asked : " Lord, whither goeth Thou ?" Jesus replied : " To Rome to be crucified again," whereupon Peter, ashamed, returned to Rome. Near the entrance is a marble stone with the impression of a bare foot, and the legend says that it was at this identical spot that the two met. The im- print is said to be that of the foot of Jesus. One more Roman legend ! There is a statue of Christ, whose right foot is covered with brass to prevent its being worn away by people's kisses. In ancient days there were many tombs of promi- inent people along the Appian Way. Most of these have been obliterated in the course of time. Only a few remain. The most prominent of these is the Tomb of Csecelia Metalla, a daughter-in-law of Crassus, one of the triumvirs of Rome. This is a large circular stone structure, 65 feet in diameter. The grave of the lady was in the interior. In the thirteenth century this monument was converted into a robbers' castle with battlements on the top. As we rode along the Appian Way the driver pointed out the ruins of the Circus of Maxentius, the great chariot race course established in 311. The build- ing was 1,050 feet long and 268 feet wide. There were seats for 18,000 spectators, with a special place for the Emperor. The Romans had circuses at various places. THE CATACOMBS. 287 The oldest and largest was the Circus Maximus, which was located between the Palatine and Aventine hills. It is said to have had a seating capacity of 250,000. The site of it is now occupied by the Jewish cemetery and the gas works. After an interesting drive we reached the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. What are the catacombs ? They are the subterranean burial places of the early Christians. There are some thirty such around Rome, but the prin- cipal or largest is the one mentioned above. The pagans mostly burned their dead, but the Christians buried theirs. The latter had learned the burial cus- tom from the Jews. Our guide informed us that dur- ing the first four centuries the Christians were not allowed to bury on the surface and for this reason the catacombs were constructed. During the first few cen- turies after the Christian era these artificial caves in the earth (for such are the catacombs) were also used in times of persecution as places of worship by the Christians. In the city they could worship the Lord only at the risk of their lives ; therefore they gathered secretly in these underground cemeteries. Many such were killed whilst thus engaged in worship. As we passed through those places we asked ourselves the question : Would our present-day Christians be faith- ful to God under similar circumstances ? Many are so easily kept from public worship by heat, cold, rain and other like circumstances. How would dire persecu- tion affect their devotion to the Lord ? At the entrance to the large catacomb we paid a fee and each one was given a wax taper to light his way under the ground. Guided by a Trappist monk we 288 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. now descended a long flight of steps far under the ground. It was a new and strange experience for us. We wandered perhaps for a mile through narrow passages, on either side of which are recesses in the walls for the dead. After the bodies were placed into these openings in the walls, the fronts were closed up, generally with marble slabs. There are numerous in- scriptions on these slabs containing the names of the deceased, etc. Then there are many pictures painted upon them. Many of these are crude. The pictures are on Bible themes, such as the raising of Lazarus, the deliverance of Jonah from the fish, Baptism, the Lord's Supper, the Resurrection. There are also pic- tures of fishes, doves, anchors, palms, evergreens, etc. There :are a number of pretty large chambers which served as places of worship for the persecuted Chris- tians. It is believed that they celebrated the Lord's Supper here. In some instances there are seats at the sides. For some time the Christians were forbidden to meet even .in these places. In the year 253 Em- peror Valerian issued a decree forbidding " the Chris- tians to assemble in those places which they call ceme- teries." But this decree was revoked in the following year. Subsequently the catacombs were confiscated. In 311, after the persecution of Diocletian had ceased, they were restored to the Christians. It is estimated that 1,000,000 Christians have been buried here. Of these about 170,000 were martyrs. Among those buried here were sixteen Popes. There are some 300 family vaults. In many instances the graves of the rich were fitted out with marble, whilst those of the poor were very plain. One of the most interesting graves is that of St. Cecelia, who was a beautiful Chris- THE CATACOMBS. 289 tian character and a noted musician. She was a sincere Christian and refused to worship idols, for which she was condemned to death. She was thrown into boiling water, but escaped unhurt. The executioner was then directed to behead her with the sword. He struck her three blows upon the neck, and then fled in horror. She died three days later. This was in the year 230. She was buried in the catacombs. St. Cecelia is by some regarded as the inventor of the organ. In 821 her body was removed to the Church of St. Cecelia in Rome. There is a reclining marble statue of her at her former grave, which was decorated with flowers at the time of our visit. There are many portraits of this popular saint by Raphael, Rubens and other artists in the galleries of Berlin, Paris, Dresden and other places. Our guide informed us that at some points there are five floors above one another in these catacombs. The gangways have an aggregate length of twelve or thirteen miles. Ail are cut out of sandstone forma- tion. There is a good deal of masoary at places. In 557 the Goths entered and robbed the catacombs. They carried off valuables and many bones as relics. The Lombards performed similar acts in 756. Imme- diately after the latter date Pope Paul I. directed the bodies of many martyrs to be removed to churches in Rome for safety. In the course of time the Christians were allowed to establish burial places on the surface, and gradually the catacombs fell into disuse and finally into oblivion. During centuries they were actually forgotten. Toward the close of the sixteenth century the scientific explora- tion of them was commenced, and many of them are now open and visited by many people. 290 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Many shops are open on Sunday in Rome. We saw carpenters and cobblers at work. Among the curious street scenes were women wearing corsets over their dresses. There is great variety in fashions. As else- where, the rich and poor mingle. Graudily dressed women, beggars, priests, students, monks, soldiers and others make up the crowd. In the streets are many donkeys used as beasts of burden. We were entertained in the Pension Boos, which is a wing of a former palace. One wing of the build- ing is occupied by an art gallery. In this hotel is a clock whose hours are marked consecutively from 1 to 24. We had breakfast at 7 o'clock, dinner at 13 and supper at 19J o'clock. This seemed somewhat odd. One of the street scenes we saw in Rome was that of a funeral. The hearse was followed by five young persons, bearing flowers. The hearse was neatly decorated. These young persons were followed by about twenty other persons, all on foot. In Europe men take off their hats when they meet the hearse of a funeral procession. Women conduct the news stands in Rome, and they perform the functions of newsboys elsewhere. At every corner poor women poke papers at passers-by, and they also offer tbeir papers to passengers in street cars, wherever these stop. They seem to be very poor. Many dogs are in the streets of the city, but they are all muzzled and therefore harmless. There are many water troughs for the horses in the city. This is a con- venience which American cities should imitate. With us this is usually left to saloonkeepers who expect drivers to come inside and drink beer whilst their horses drink water outside. CHAPTER XVn,-AUSTRIA. Yillaeh.— Semmering Mountains and Pass.— Vienna. Evangrelical Sermon in Catholic Ghureh.^An Im- perial Burial Place.— Sehcenbrunn Palace. Trolly Ride Through the City.— Street Scenes. FTEE, leaving Venice we set our faces toward Austria. Our first intended stop was Vienna, the capital. We rode in a fast express train, but the distance was great — 461 miles — and the unbroken ride would have occupied seventeen hours, including a night, and we therefore concluded to break the journey. This we did at the town of Villach, near the border. After leaving Venice we passed through a fine agricultural country for a considerable distance. Then came an extensive and romantic mountain region. Here are the Italian Alps, some of whose tops were covered with snow. The railroad leads through many tunnels, some of which are quite long, and the country reminded us of Switzerland. We tarried over night at Villach, in Austria. This is a rather quaint old town of some ten thousand people, located on both sides of the swift river Drave (German, Drau). There is a very old Catholic church here. Because of the mountains in the vicinity, the place is patronized by many tourists and mountain- climbers. Villach is a Catholic town. At the time of our visit there were advertised pilgrimages to Lourdes, in France, where the Virgin Mary is said to have ap- 292 RAMBLES IN EUKOPE. peared to a young girl on Feb. 11, 1858, and to Rome. At the latter place the pilgrims were to have a special audience with the Pope. On the way from Villach to Vienna we passed through the enchanting Semmering mountains, about sixty miles southwest of Vienna, on the boarder be- tween Styria and Austria. This mountain rises 4,577 feet above the sea-level. The railroad, as it winds along the Semmering Pass, runs through 15 tunnels and crosses 16 bridges. It passes over the same small stream a number of times, and also cuts across a num- ber of narrow valleys. The principal tunnel is the Semmering, which is 4,710 feet (nearly a mile) long. It requires nearly two hours for a train to traverse this mountain region. The railroad was built in 1850-53 at an expense of $10,000,000. There are some heavy grades, and the highest point reached is in the Semmering tunnel, viz., 2,940 feet. There is a beauti- ful horse- shoe bend in these mountains, but it is a good deal shorter than the famous one near Altoona, Pa. At one point we saw a train a little south of us going apparently in the opposite direction, but presently we found it was simply on a different part of the great curve, and that we were going the same way. The scenery is at places quite wild, and some of the high peaks rise almost perpendicularly. Here and there are found people living in most obscure places. Beyond the Semmering Pass we found a fine agri- cultural region and numerous pleasant villages. The country yielded rich harvests of hay and grain. There were many small hay stacks. The grain was still in shocks in the fields. In this region we observed a VIENNA. 293 woman working as a laborer on the railroad-bed with a gang of men, and in a certain village we noticed sev- eral women serving as hod-carriers ! Our party spent several days very pleasantly in the large and beautiful capital of Austria, Vienna (Wien in German). We reached the city on a Saturday even- ing, and found a pleasant hotel located on Mariahil- ferstrasse, (Mary Help Street). The hotel clerk in- formed us that he could give us rooms on the second floor, and this suited us very well. But we were not quite so well pleased when we learned where the second floor was It all depends upon how people count. The first story is consideredthe ground- floor ; the sec- ond is the " entresol " — restaurant and reading room ; the third is the first floor, and the fourth the second ! There we were, on the fourth story, with a small eleva- tor which took us up, but never down. Vienna is one of the metropolises of Europe, with about 2,000,000 population, including 200,000 Jews. It is situated on the river Danube. This stream is at the edge of the city, therefore the Danube Canal has been dug through the more central part to furnish bet- ter commercial facilities. Vienna is an old city, and occupies the site of the Homan city Vindobona, which was founded in the year 14, and thus took the place of a former Celtic settle- ment. It was of little importance until the time of the Crusades. In 1276 the place became the capital of the House of Hapsburg, whose members have been the rulers of Austria ever since. The famous siege of Vi- enna by the Turks continued from July 14 to Septem- ber 12, 1683, when it was relieved by John Sobieski, 294 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. of Poland. The great Congress which was held at Vienna from September 20, 1814, to June 10, 1815, had for its purpose the readjustment of European af- fairs after Napoleon's overthrow, and its decisions had a far-reaching effect. News of Napoleon's return from Elba hastened the signing of the treaty on June 9, 1815. Although Vienna contains many really old build- ings, some; dating from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, it is substantially a modern city. Nearly all the larger edifices date from the latter half of the nine- teenth century. It was our intention on Sunday morning to worship at the Protestant church, in the centre of the old part of Vienna. We were informed that the hour of ser- vice was 10.30 o'clock. Having reached the neighbor- hood an hour ahead of time, we concluded first to visit the grand St. Stephen's Catholic Cathedral near by. We found a large congregation present, with a priest about to commence preaching. Over one-half of the people were standing, only a part of the church being supplied with seats. The priest's theme was the Phar- isee and the Publican Praying in the Temple. After reading the narrative as a Scripture lesson, he preached a truly Evangelical sermon. He showed the nature of true humility, and stated that God will exalt the hum- ble ; but that self-exaltation tends to humiliation and rejection on the part of God. The preacher employed excellent German, and could be understood by all. This sermon would have been in place in any Protestant church. At the close of the sermon all present united heartily in the Lord's Prayer. This service was re- freshing. It was the only sermon we heard in any CAPUCHIN CHURCH. 295 Catholic church in Europe. In all other churches vis- ited by us, the priests only celebrated the mass, with- out delivering a sermon. It was all formality and of a kind which we could not approve. St. Stephen's Cathedral is an old church, and richly adorned. It dates from 1300 to 1510, and has a tower 450 feet high. In the church are found the tombs of Emperor Fred- erick III. and Prince Eugene of Savoy, and a memorial of Vienna's deliverance from the Turks in 1683. But we had lingered too long in this place, for, when we reached the Protestant church, we learned to our disappointment that the services had commenced an hour earlier than we had been informed. However, we inspected the building, which is a plain one, with galleries, very much like those in our American churches. In trying to find this church we met a big- oted Catholic. I asked him the way to the Evangelical church, but he refused the information and tried to send us to the St. Stephen's Catholic church, and added : ** That; is also an Evangelical church." An old church of special interest is that of the Cap- uchins, a branch of the Franciscan Order of the Cath- olic Church. The order was established in 1208 by St. Francis, and grew with wonderful rapidity. It is stated that a century after its founding, during the fear- ful plague of the Black Death, 124,000 Franciscan monks died in nursing the sick and dying. The church is located in the centre of the old section of the city and is a comparatively small, unattractive building. Its principal interest ^for the tourist consists in the fact that in its basement (crypt) rest the remains of 132 members of the imperial family of Hapsburg. The 296 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. remains repose mostly in elaborate metallic coffins (sar- cophagi) and these stand in rows on the marble floor. None are buried. A pamphlet in German containing a list of these persons states that here " they await the resurrection of the dead." Probably nowhere else in the world is there such a collection of bodies of de- parted imperial persons in one place. Here we were in the presence of the bones of 132 Emperors, Em- presses, Princes, Princesses, Dukes, Duchesses, etc., some of whom were famous in history. In life some of them attracted great attention, but now they are all silent in death. A Capuchin monk in long gown re- cited the names of the departed as we passed by their resting places. I can mention the names of only a few of them : Empress Maria Theresa, died 1780 ; Napo- leon Joseph Carl Franz, son of Emperor Napoleon, died at Schonbrunn, Vienna, 1832 ; Ferdinand Maximilian, a brother of Francis Joseph, the present Emperor of Austria, whom Napoleon III. placed upon the throne of Mexico in 1864, where he was shot in 1867 ; the parents and the wife of the present Emperor. The so called Votive Church is a large, beautiful modern house of worship erected in 1856-79 to com- memorate the escape of Emperor Francis Joseph from assassination in 1853. The front has two beautiful lofty spires. This is perhaps the most imposing modern church io Vienna. It stands upon the spot where the attempt to assassinate the Emperor was made. We spent half a day in visiting the beautiful Palace at Schonbrunn in the southern section of the city. It was formerly a castle. The palace has 1,441 rooms. The principal state apartments are shown to the public. 8CH0ENBRUNN PALACE. 297 Some of them are in luxurious style. One small room is finished in rosewood, and is said to have cost $400,000. Six chairs in it alone have cost $50,- 000. The son of Napoleon died in this palace in 1832. Many notable festivities have occurred in its spacious halls, especially during the reign of Emperor Joseph II. In the year 1801, when the French invaded Aus- tria, Archduke Johann had his headquarters at Schon- brunn. In 1805 the palace fell into the hands of Napoleon, and here he resided from December 12 to 15 of that year. He called it " a really imperial summer seat." In 1809 Napoleon once more had his head- quarters here. Five years later, in 1814, Emperor Francis I. gave magnificent festivals here in honor of the allied monarchs present here at the Great Congress. The present Emperor of Austria, Francis Joseph I., resides at Schonbrunn usually every spring and fall. The summer he usually spends at Ischl, near Salzburg, ivhere the imperial family have a villa. Schonbrunn palace is surrounded by magnificent gardens and a large park, the whole constituting a veritable paradise. The gardens are adorned with 32 statues of marble. In 1908 eighty- two thousand school children greeted the aged Emperor in front of the palace. He has always been a warm friend of chil- dren. The park presents a beautiful picture. The trees are trimmed systematically, which makes the vari- ous avenues perfectly straight. To the west of the palace is located one of the largest and finest Zoological Gardens in the world. Here is a huge American buffalo, the like of which is seldom seen. 20 298 EAMBLES IN ET7K0PE. In the old part of the city is another imperial palacB, a very large old building, with a large open equare in the centre. This is known as the Emperor's City Palace. Vienna possesses many magnificent public build- ings. They are large and modern in appearance. I can mention only a few. The Museum and the Art GraUery are two large buildings well worth a careful inspection. They are located a short distance apart, and in the centre of the intervening space stands a large statue of Empress Maria Theresa. In the rear of this monument are the imperial stables, erected in 1725, which contain an interesting collection of coronation and state carriages, saddles and hunting equipments, etc. The Art Gallery contains many paintings by Rubens and Diirer. The two houses of Parliament are splendid modern buildings with^porticos of Corinthian columns. Another large and beautiful structure is the " Siihnhaus '^ (House of Expiation), erected on the site of the former Ricg Theatre, which was destroyed byfireinl881, when 700 persons perished. The University, founded in 1365, is magnificently housed. It has 350 teachers and 6,000 students, and its medical school is famous all over the world, and attracts many students from abroad. Probably the largest hospital in Europe is the Public Hospital of Vienna, which has 2,000 beds. Many of the streets in Vienna are wide and shaded with numerous trees. Our party took a five hours' ride in an observation trolly car through all sections of the great city, which afforded a fine panoramic view. There are many fine monuments in the various parts, includ- 8TEEET SCENES. 299 ing those to Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, Schiller, Goethe, Field Marshall Schwarzenberg, Prince Eugene of Savoy, Archduke Charles, Archduke Maximilian, the ill-fated Emperor of Mexico, etc. The street scenes noticed during this visit were varied and somewhat unusual. Many of the streets are paved with stones, and the consequence is great noise. Some of the business signs are rather unique. One is : "Apotheke zum Heiligen Geist '' (Holy Ghost Drug Store). The Germans are noted for the long words they employ. Here are a few street names in Vienna: Eschenbachgasse, Gumpendorferstrasse, Sechshauser- strasse, Mariahilferstrasse, Schwarzspanierstrasse, Uni- versitatsstrasse, HauptzoUamtsstrasse, etc. On the signs occur such long words as ; Staatseisenbahngesell- schaft, Dienstvermittlungsstelle, Hausrathssammelstel- le, Lebensversicherungsgesellschaft, DampfschifFahrts- gesellschaft. Women perform much drudgery work in Vienna. We saw a number of women carrying bricks and mor- tar up high scaffoldings at new buildings. At one place two women were pushing a large cart laden with mortar. The Prater is the principal public park, and is large and beautiful. It was originally a hunting ground of the emperors, but was opened to the public in 1706. The park has some beautiful wide avenues. These are often filled with the splendid equipages of the rich citizens of Vienna. A trolly line leads to the " Lust- haus," a popular resort in the park. Emperor Francis Joseph, the ruler of Austria, is popular and beloved. He has been on the throne since 1848, a period of sixty-two years. He is now in his 300 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Slst year. Oq August 18, 1910, his eightieth birthday- anniversary was celebrated at Ischl by seventy-five members of the Hapsburg family. He ascended the throne at the age of eighteen years and has passed through many stormy times and much private sorrow. Having always been a man of simple tastes, his private rooms are furnished in the most unpretentious style. In the monetary system of Austria the unit is the " krone," and this contains one hundred " heller." The heller is equivalent to about one-fifth of an American cent. We were often reminded of the fact that in translating the Bible into German Dr. Martin liuther employed the word " heller " in Matth. 5 : 26, for "farthing." I After leaving Vienna we traveled westward through a fine agricultural region. We passed numerous small towns, the houses of which are mostly painted white, whilst the tiled roofs are painted red. In Europe gen- erally the buildings are roofed with tiles, and these are almost universally red. As one looks over a town or city from an elevated point, there is a vast expanse of red stretched out before him. During the latter days of July the farmers were busy in the grain fields. The train passed through Linz and Salzburg. We were bound for the city of Munich, 272 miles west of Vienna. The ride continued from 10 a. m. until 7.45 p. m. and was pleasant throughout. CHAPTER XVni.— GERMANY. Munich.— The Passion Play.— Ober Ammergau. UNICH (German Miinchen) is the capi- tal of Bavaria, one of the states com- posing the German Empire. It is situ- ated on the river Isar, a tributary of the Danube. The population is about 600,000. Munich is one of the hand- somest cities in Germany and noted for its rich art treasures. It was founded in the twelfth century by Henry the Lion. Some fifty years ago King Ludwig I. spent 7,000,000 thalers to beautify the city, which now abounds in splendid public buildings. First of all our party took a tally-ho ride of three hours through the city, which was quite interesting and satisfactory. Subsequently we visited various public institutions, churches, the royal palace, etc. Munich is known far and wide on account of its large breweries and its great consumption of beer. The breweries pro- duce some 50,000,000 gallons annually, and the people of Munich are said to drink about four- fifths of that quantity. There is no doubt that Munich is the greatest beer- drinking city in Germany in proportion to its population. There are many very large drinking places, and these are usually filled every eve ning. These places are open every day of the week and every night until three o'clock. Awaking one night at a little after two o'clock, I heard many people wal king on the streets, and supposed they must be early risers, but to my sur- prise I learned that they had not yet retired. Our 302 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. landlord informed me that frequently from ten to twelve barrels of beer are sold in his place on a Sunday. And yet notwithstanding the great deal of drinking we saw no drunkenness during our sojourn of several days. The fact is that, though drinking beer is an al- most universal practice in Munich, yet the quantity consumed per capita is not as large as in America. Be- sides it may be that the Bavarians being accustomed to drinking beer daily, are able to stand more than people in our country. It is claimed that the cause of tem- perance is gaining ground in Bavaria. At a state con- vention in Augsburg in October, 1910, it was reported that the tax receipts from liquo" had decreased twenty per cent, in two years. Munich is an art centre. There are several exten- sive galleries and museums, filled with treasures of many kinds. The two Pinakothek buildings, old and new, contain many paintings of superior merit. In the old building there are over 1,400 paintings by old mas- ters, whilst the new contains 900 by modern artists. Fine specimens of both ancient and modern sculpture are preserved in the Glyptothek. Among the large paintings is the Last Judgment. A large proportion of the paintings are on Biblical subjects. One of the most interesting of this class represents Jesus and the Samaritan Woman at Jacob's Well. The Royal Palace is a very large affair, containing hundreds of rooms, which are embellished with beauti- ful paintings and furnished in costly style. One bed room is said to have cost 800,000 gulden to furnish. It is stated that forty men worked ten years in decorating this room. One artist spent thirty-six years in paint- MUNICH. 3G3 ing pictures in this palace. Napoleon spent some time in royal residence here in 1809, and one of the Popes also lived here for awhile. There are Idng colonnades connected with the palace, one of which is embellished with pictures from the history of Bavaria. Unfortu- nately Otto, the present King of Bavaria, cannot enjoy the beautiful residence, as he is a sufferer from a mental disorder. The regent is Prince Luitpold, who is in his ninety- first year. Among the churches, that of Our Lady is the most interesting. This is a large old brick edifice, erected in 1468_88. It has two massive unfinished towers, 325 feet high, the exterior of which is rough and by no means beautiful Inside the church is the elaborate tomb of Emperor Ludwig, the Bavarian, who died in 1864. Everything about this building has the appear- ance of great age, and it is not attractive. There are numerous other Roman Catholic houses of worship. The oldest is St. Peter's, dating from 1264. The Theatine church contains the royal burial vault ; the Louis church is embellished with a famous fresco painting of the Last Judgment; the beautiful St. Mariahilf church is noted for its gorgeous stained glass, and fine wood carvings ; St. Boniface church is noted for its QQ pillars of gray Tyrolean marble. There are also a number of Evangelical churches in Munich. In our tour we passed a fine Protestant house of God near the centre of the city with this inscription on the out- side in large letters: '^Dein Wort ist die Wahrheit" (Thy Word is Truth). Europeans are fond of monuments, and the people of Munich are not behind others in this respect. The 304 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. most elaborate and beautiful memorial in the city is the Temple of Fame, a large Doric colonnaded building containing busts of eighty illustrious Bavarians. In front of this stands the colossal statue of Bavaria, which is 65 feet high, and is a beautiful work of art. The Gate of Victory is also a splendid monument^ modeled after Constantine's triumphal arch near the Forum at Rome. The University of Bavaria has some 5,000 students, with a library of over 300,000 volumes. Munich is more noted for art and music than for its manufactures. However, its glass factories are of superior order and widely known, especially its stained- glass works. The beautiful glass in the Second Re- formed church in Reading, Pa., was made in Munich, The grandest thoroughfare in Munich is the Maxi- milian street, at the east end of which is the beautiful Maximilian Bridge across the river Isar. immedi- ately beyond the bridge is the Maximilaneum, which contains a collection of modern historical paintings. The above street is wide and along its sides are located numerous large and j&ne buildings. From the bridge a beautiful view is to be obtained. The grandest view of the city is afforded from the tower of the fine new City Hall. Two elevators, one above the other, carry visitors to the top. The tower contains a large clock. From Munich we went to the village of Ober Am- mergau to witness the famous Passion Play. This per- formance is a representation of the sufferings of our Saviour during Passion Week and His crucifixion, together with two thieves. His experience during this THE PASSION PLAY. 305 period ~ the sufferings in the garden, betrayal, arrest, several trials, scourging, mocking, rejection, crucifixion, burial, resurrection and ascension are enacted in a very realistic manner. There are also a number of excellent tableaux of scenes from the Old Testament which have reference to Christ. The performers wear Oriental robes and costumes, which inhance the general interest. Why is the Passion Play rendered? Originally and for a long time it was performed as a thank-offer- ing to the Lord. In 1633 many villages in the region of Ober Ammergau were visited with pestilence. Whole families were carried off by the dread disease. In one village only two married couples were left alive. It was a plague somewhat like the Black Death. Place after place fell a victim to its ravages. Ober Ammer- gau was not spared. Many people died. The people now turned to God and cried to Him for help. They confessed their sins and vowed that if God would stay the plague they would perform the Passion Play every ten years as a thank-offering. The story is that from that day the plague ceased. Those who were sick recovered and no more became ill. The deliverance was like that of the snake-bitten Israelites, when Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness. Whether the story is a matter of history, or a mere legend, I cannot say. There is no doubt that people generally believe it. During a long period of time the original pious purpose was strictly adhered to. The play was an act of grateful worship, and it was given without charge. But alas, in the course of time, like almost everything else, it has fallen a prey to commerciaHsm, which has turned the famous play into a money machine. Now 306 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the play is advertised extensively all over Europe and America, and vast crowds are attracted to the village of Ober Ammergau. The primary object appears to be money making. Personating Christ in His agony in the garden and repeating His prayers surely seems out of place on the stage. The theatre in which the play was given was erected for the season of 1900 at a cost of 200,000 marks ($48,000). There are 4,000 seats. In 1900 the num- ber of those attending the play was about 200,000. The profits are divided into three parts, one-third going to the village and two- thirds to the players. In 1900 the village's share was about $80,000, which amount was spent on public improvements. My estimate is that on the above basis the village in 1910 received $150,000 as its share of the profits. Each of our party paid $12 for a ticket, boarding and lodging. Including the railroad fare from Munich the total cost was nearly $15. Our rooms were on the first floor and we slept with open windows in perfect security. Dramatically the play is a success, the plain people of this quaint village acting their parts very well. It took eight hours — four in the forenoon and four in the afternoon — to render the performance. Ober Ammergau is a quaint, but interesting vil- lage. It is located in a narrow valley in the Bavarian highlands, between two high Alpine mountains. The houses are mostly two-storied, and in many instances the roofs are loaded with stones to keep the shingles in place. As a rule the gables of the buildings are toward the streets. The people generally own small tracts of land and every family keeps at least one cow. There OBER AMMERGAU. 307 are said to be between 600 and 700 cows in the village. These graze on the Alpine mountains. In the evening all of them come home to be milked. Each one having a bell, these cows produce singular music. Even the horses have bells. There are also many goats. Perhaps one-half of the buildings consist of house and barn under one roof, as we saw frequently in Switzerland and other places. Thus in many instances the manure pile is less than fifteen feet away from the door of the house. Many of the houses are plastered on the outside and some have pictures painted on them. The people, numbering about 1,600 and living in 400 houses, are a plain folk and lead a simple life. Many of tte men are wood carvers. They make fine crucifixes and other objects purchased largely by Cath- olics. Our host, Mr. Hans Mayer, belongs to this craft. In the play he acted the part of King Herod. He is a venerable looking gentleman and greeted us heartily. For several years before each play the men and youths who expect to take part allow their hair to grow long. This makes the older men, who also wear beards, look quite patriarchal. CHAPTER XDL— GERMANY (Continued). Nuremberg:.— Its Castle and Tower of Torture.— Dres- den.— Its Art Gallery.— Wittenberg, the City of Luther and Melanehthon.— Jueterbog and Tetzel. UE. next objective point was Nurem- berg in Bavaria. The way to it from Munich leads through a rich territory. The farmers were engaged in cutting wheat on August 1. Hops are exten- sively cultivated in Bavaria, great quantities being used in the manufac- ture of beer. Bavaria is an old coun- try. About 600 years before Christ it was conquered by a Celtic tribe, which in turn was subdued by the Romans a short time before the Chris- tian era. After the decline of the Roman power the country became a part of Charlemagne's empire. In 1180 it was transferred to Otto, Count of Wittelsbach, whose descendant now occupies the throne. Subse- quently it included what was known as the eastern Palatinate. In 1805 Napoleon erected Bavaria into a kingdom. The king aided Napoleon in his wars, and as a reward his territory was much enlarged. In the conflict of 1866 between Prussia and Austria, Bavaria sided with Austria, and afterwards had to pay Prussia $15,000,000. At the beginning of the Franco-Prus- sian war in 1870 Bavaria placed its army under the command of Prussia ; in November of that year it agreed to become part of the German empire, and a month later, when the German army was at Ver- sailles, near Paris, the king of Bavaria, Louis II., 310 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. nominated King William of Prussia as Emperor. Un- fortunately Louis later became insane, and drowned himself on June 13, 1886. He was succeeded on the throne by his brother. Otto, who is now also insane^ and the country is at present governed by Prince Luit- pold as Regent. Nuremberg (German Niirnberg) is one of the quaintest and most interesting cities of Germany, on account of the wealth of its mediaeval architecture. Its population is 332,000. Visitors are at once impressed with the numerous old-style buildings found here. The roofs are high and very steep. Directly opposite our hotel is the large old building known as the ZoU- amt (custom house), erected 1498-1502. There are three stories below the eaves of the roof, and six stor- ies above. There are six rows of dormer windows, one above the other, presenting a quaint appearance. Nuremberg has numerous buildings of this kind, with their gables as a rule facing the street. Curiously enough even new buildings are erected in imitation of the old style. There are many old landmarks in the city. The ancient city wall of the 16th century is almost entirely preserved, with its four very large and 36 small tow- ers. Even the moat in front of the wall is still in existence, but is, of course, dry. The city extends far beyond its wall in each direction. Nuremberg contains a number of churches of great interest. Near the railroad is the oM Martha Re- formed church, standing back a short distance from the street. It is a small, plain edifice. In this church the noted Hans Sachs instructed children in music. NUEEMBERG. 311 St. Sebaldus is a large old church, originally Cath- olic, but given to the Lutherans during the Reforma- tion. It still looks like a Catholic house of worship, as it remains almost entirely in its original form. On the western front is a large figure of Christ, which was painted black during the Thirty Years' War to con- ceal it from the enemy. In the interior is the tomb of St. Sebaldus, which is an elaborate affair. It is by the artist Peter Vischer, the noted worker in bronze, a native of Nuremberg. He and his five sons are said to have been engaged in its construction from 1506 till 1519. This is regarded as one of the finest works of art in Germany. The whole represents a temple. The saint's sarcophagus is surmounted by figures of the Twelve Apostles ; above these are twelve smaller figures representing Fathers of the Church and the Prophets. At the base are 72 images of various sizes. A figure of the infant Jesus holding in his hand the orb surmounts the whole. In the church are a number of elegant paintings by Diirer, Rubens and other artists, among which are "The Last Supper,'^ "Christ on the Mount of Olives," "Judas Betraying the Savior," "Burial of Christ," "Last Judgment." The pew of Hans Sachs in this church is still pre- served and shown. He was perhaps the most famous poet of his time in Germany. He composed over 6000 poems. In the western part of the church is the baptistry, including a large receptacle in which child- ren were formerly immersed. The old fire box used in heating the water is also preserved. St. Sebaldus church was erected 1225-1377. St. Lawrence church is usually considered the fin- est house of worship in Nuremberg. It was erected in 312 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. 1274-1477, and has two beautiful towers, 233 feet high, with exquisite stained glass and wood carving. It is the largest and oldest Lutheran church in the city. One of the most interesting places in Nuremberg is the old castle. Our party spent some time in inspect- ing it. From this place a fine view over the city, with its numerous smoke-stacks and red tile roofs, is afford- ed. Some distance west of Nuremberg is a tower which marks the place where Wallenstein had his camp in 1632. The castle was founded in 1030 and was formerly a royal residence. Five years ago the German Emperor and Empress spent some time here. The rooms they occupied were shown us. Everything connected with the castle looks very old, both paint- ings and furniture. In the courtyard stands a very old lime tree. It is claimed to have been planted by the wife of Henry II., who was crowned king of the Germans in 1002. Here there also is a very deep well which was dug in 1563 — nearly 350 years ago. It was sunk through solid rock and its construction occupied many years. The well is 335 feet deep, and furnishes excellent water. It takes six seconds for water poured into the well to reach the bottom. A lady in charge, who spoke fine German, demonstrated the fact to us. She also lowered a light to the top of the water, so that visitors might look all the way down. There are two deep subterranean passages near the bottom of the well — one leading to the Rath- haus and the other to the old prison. The former is still open. In one of the rooms of the castle is a large stove made in 1505. In connection with the castle is NUEEMBERG. 313 the Heathen Tower erected in 1056, so called because its exterior is covered with pictures of human heads. Then there is the five-cornered tower, which is the oldest building in Nuremberg. Another interesting, but gruesome place connected with the castle is a tower filled with a large collection of ancient implements of torture. They forcibly re- minded us of what has been called ''man's inhumanity to man." I can mention only some of these cruel devices : The rack, upon which persons were stretched ; a cradle with many sharp spikes in the bottom and sides, in which criminals were rocked ; a wheel by which persons had all their bones broken ; ladels for pouring hot metal upon the victims^ backs ; instru- ments to cut out tongues and destroy eyes, etc. The worst of all is the so called Iron Maiden — an upright and hollow form of a woman, with a door in front. The inside is full of sharp spikes. After the culprit had been placed into the instrument the door was slowly closed, and the sharp spikes driven into the body from all sides, two of them penetrating the eyes. The pain thus inflicted upon the unfortunate prisoner cannot be described. When death had finally come to his relief the corpse was dropped into a machine below, which ground it into small pieces. These were then cast into the stream Pegnitz and carried away. The collection also includes numerous swords used in be- heading people, one of which descended from father to son to the fourth generation of executioners. Then there were also milder forms of punishment for lesser offences. For instance, bakers who sold bread that was under weight were placed into a cage 21 314 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. and then dipped under water as many times as their loaves were short in ounces. It is difficult to realize that such acts of inhuman- ity could ever have been practised in a civilized coun- try, but it must be remembered that stages of civiliza- tion are not far removed from barbarism. When one looks upon these instruments of torture, he no longer questions whether the world has been growing better. Such inhumanity cannot now occur in any country which claims to be civilized. One fairJv shudders when he thinks of the many people who have been tortured and murdered by means of such instruments as those exhibited here. It is astonishing how many offences were punishable with death in former ages. Blackstone mentions 160 such in England, four-fifths ot which had been made so duriug the reigns of the first three Georges. For example, people were put to death for counterfeiting the stamps used in the sale of perfumery and hair powder ! It was a capital offense to harbor an offender against the Revenue Acts. The guide informed us that some of these instru- ments of torture were used in Nuremberg and else- where as late as 1830. On the upper floor of the Tower of Torture is an effigy of a noted robber knight, named Eppelein of Garlingen, who was a prisoner here. One day he asked permission to ride his horse in the castle yard once more before his execution. This request being granted, he caused the horse to leap over the wall to the ground far below. The poor animal was killed, but Eppelein escaped, declaring as he ran away : ^^The Nurembergers do not haug a man unless they first catch him.'^ Three years later he was re- NUREMBERG. 316 captured and executed. A depression in the coping of the wail is pointed out as having been made by the hoofs of the horse as he leaped over the wall. But the coping is of solid stone, which fact disproves the story. The Nurembergers keep alive the memory of many noted citizens by means of monuments. Among them are those of Albert Diirer, Hans Sachs (with his dwell- ing house near by), Melancthon, Emperor William I., Martin Behaim, the great navigator and explorer, etc. There is also a Monument of Victory erected in 1876. There are a number of public fountains, among them the Beautiful Fountain (1385-1396), a Gothic stone pyramid in three tiers. In the loiter part are the seven Electors, several pagan heroes, besides some Jewish and Christian characters. Above are Moses and the seven Prophets. Of modern date is the Neptune Fountain. The Fountain of the Virtues consists of female statues representing the virtues, sur- mounted by a statue of Justice with a crane, the latter the symbol of vigilance. The "Gooseman^^ is a small fountain in the form of a man carrying a goose under each arm. Water is streaming from the mouths of the geese. The legend connected therewith is that during the Thirty Years' War Nuremberg was under siege, and no one could leave or enter the city. The people were at the verge of starvation, but there was a man in the country who possessed many geese. He knew of an underground passage into the city, and through it he supplied the people with geese, and thereby saved their lives. This good man must have had very many geese to supply a whole city ! Another small fountain is that of tl^e Bagpiper, with water streaming from a bagpipe. There is also a 316 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. legend connected with this fountain. Many years ago the pestilence prevailed in Nuremberg, and many peo- ple died in the streets. It was the duty of an under- taker to pass through the streets every morning with a team, gather up the dead bodies and convey them to the cemetery for burial. Now there was a certain bag- piper who was much given to drinking. One day he was lying drunk in the street, and the undertaker, making his daily round, thought him dead, loaded him upon his wagon with a number of corpses, and drove away to the cemetery. There the bagpiper revived out of his stupor, stood up in the wagon and com- menced to speak. The undertaker was almost para- lyzed with fear, thinking that one had arisen from the dead. These two legends were rehearsed by a sprightly boy of ten years, who insisted upon acting as our guide to the two latter fountains. He recited these legends in excellent German. When paying him a small fee we noticed that his hands were discolored and asked the reason. He answered that he helped to make toys. This called to mind an interesting fact. One of the industries of Nuremberg is the manufacture of wooden toys, including dolls. These goods are made mostly by women and children, and are widely known in Europe and America as "Nuremberg goods," They find a ready sale. Our little guide of ten years is already a breadwinner. In America there is a strong protest against child labor, and properly so, but in Europe children enter the struggle of life much earlier than in our own country. An official report states that in Austria one- half of the children employed in NUREMBEKG. 317 factories commence to work before th ey are eight years of age, and many do this before they have completed their sixth year. In agricultural regions hundreds of children receive only their board and certain articles of clothing. The balance of the clothing must be pro- vided by the parents. There are numerous buildings of historic interest in Nuremberg. Many of them were pointed out to us during a tally-ho ride through the city, such as : The house in which Albert Diirer was born on May 21, 1471 ; the house in which Hans Sachs resided from 1542 until his death in 1676; the Holy Ghost Hos- pital, founded in 1331 ; the house of the bookseller, John Philip Palm, who was shot by order of Napoleon on August 26, 1806, because he had published a pamphlet entitled " Germany in the Deepest Humilia- tion," which contained some severe criticisms of Napo- leon and the conduct of the French troops ; the Town Hall (1620-22) with the old prison, from whose dun- geons subterrannean passages led to the castle and other places. In the stream Pegnitz is a small rocky island on which some Swedish soldiers are buried, who diV d dur- ing the occupation of Nuremberg by Gustavus Adolphus in 1632. The people of Nuremberg accepted the Reformation doctrines at an early day. In 1619 and 1522 the City Council had forbidden the publication and circulation of Dr. Martin Luther's writings, but this did not stop the new movement which made such rapid progress in Nuremberg that already in 1524 the communion was administered in both kinds to 300 persons. Priests 318 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. were allowed to marry^ and in 1526 all cloisters in Nuremberg were abolished. The Nurembergers claim the honor of having built the first railroad in Germany, viz., the line from Nur- emberg to Fiirth in 1835. Every visitor to this city must be sure to eat some " Bratwurstglocklein." What are these? They are very small sausages, fried and served in a restaurant quite near the St. Sebald church. The sausages are very palatable and are served with ^* Sauerkraut." One of our party required two servings of " Bratwurst- glocklein" to satisfy his appetite. The country between Nuremberg and Dresden is beautiful, and such is the case generally with Germany. Farmers were engaged in harvesting their splendid crops of wheat and rye in the early days of August. Here as elsewhere we were impressed with the late- ness of the season compared with Pennsylvania, on account of the higher latitude. Among the reapers were some women who were swinging the grain cradle, and more were working with the sickle. We saw some children taking care of large flocks of gees'e. Very few farmers in this region live on their farms, but in vil- lages. Besides the beautiful country, the tourist is impressed by the splendid rural roads. Dresden, the capital of Saxony, is situated on the river Elbe, 116 miles south of Berhn. The city derives its importance largely from the fact that it is the place of residence of the royal family of Saxony, and from its magnificent art collections. It has over 500,000 inhabitants. The river Elbe divides Dresden in two sections — Altstadt and Neustadt. Nearly all DRESDEN. 319 the places of general interest are located in the latter part. Five bridges, of which one, dating from the twelfth century, is now being rebuilt, span the wide river. The place of chief interest in Dresden is the Muse- um, containing the famous picture gallery, which ranks with those at Paris and Florence as among the finest in the world. There are over 2600 paintings in this collection. The most famous picture in the collection is Raphael's Sistine Madonna, which is exhibited in a room almost by itself This is undoubtedly one of the finest pictures in the world. The longer one beholds it, the more he is charmed by its great beauty. The room is always filled with visitors, and many linger a long time to gaze upon the marvellous painting, which is 8 feet high and 6 feet wide. It represents the Vir- gin Mary and the Child Jesus in the clouds, with Pope Sixtus on the right, St. Barbara on the left, and two beautiful cherubs beneath. The picture was painted by Raphael about the year 1515 for the church of the Benedictine monks of St. Sisto, in Piacenza, northern Italy. Hence the name *'Sistine.'' In 1753 Frederick Augustus, Elector of Saxony, purchased this famous picture for $45,000, the monks contenting themselves with a copy. The Italians have always envied the Germans on account of this wonderful piece of art, and well they may. In the large gallery are represented the great artists of many schools. Many of the paintings of Peter Paul Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Diirer, Raphael, Hol- bein, Vecehio and many other noted artists are found here. One of the most beautiful pictures represents 320 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Jesus in the Temple among the Doctors. We secured postal card copies of many of the most famous pictures in all the galleries visited, but unfortunately no card of the last named painting could be obtained. Among the most interesting subjects in this collection I may mention these : The Tribute Money, Three Sisters, Adoration of the Shepherds, Finding of Moses, Abra- ham's Sacrifice, numerous Madonnas, Adoration of the Magi, Crucifixion (by Diirer), Diogenes with his Lan- tern, Presentation of the Child Jesus in the Temple. Besides the paintings there are many thousands of engravings and drawings. The Zwinger, which adjoins the Museum, also con- tains some paintings, beside large collections of Zoolog- ical, Ethnological, Mineralogical and other specimens, many of which date from prehistoric times. The Royal Palace in Dresden, founded in 1530-37, has gradually grown in size. Its interior is becom- ingly decorated by the frescoer^s art. On the ground floor is the so-called Green Vault, accessible to visitors, and containing a rich profusion of gems, relics, curiosi- ties, etc. I can mention only a few of the many ob- jects preserved here : Luther^s Goblet, a present from the Elector John Frederick in 1539; Gustavus Adolphus' Bible ; clock in the form of the Tower of Babel ; drink- ing vessel of Luther (crystal) ; green diamond, 48 J carats in weight ; a ladies' bow with 662 diamonds ; Luther's signet ring ; a large collection of mediaeval Saxon coins and medals. A fabulous sum of money is represented in this treasure house. Near the Elbe stands the Court Church (Catholic) which was erected in 1738-51. Seventy-eight statues of DRESDEN. 321 saints and a tower 305 feet: high ornament its exterior. Under the sacristy are located the royal burial vaults. The Church of Our Lady, with a towering dome, is a large Lutheran sanctuary, erected in 1726-43. It is considered the finest church in the city. In front of it stands a Luther monument, modeled after the one at Worms. The new City Hall is a large, grand affair of recent date. At the time of our visiL it was not yet opened, but was expected to be inaugurated before the close of 1910. An interesting spot in Dresden is the " Jiidenhof " in the former Jewish section, where there was at one time a synagogue. In the pavement is a stone with the mark " Kr.," which indicates the spot where Chancellor Krell was beheaded on October 9, 1601. This man died as a religious martyr. In Germany the Reforma- tion was intimately connected with civil affairs. Those in authority claimed the right to dictate the faith of the people. Chancellor Krell took sides with the Crypto- Calvinists, who held the Calvinistic doctrine of the Lord's Supper, but not of predestination. This brought Krell into conflict with the Formula of Concord of the Lutherans, who were then in power. The result was that he was convicted of heresy and beheaded. This fact indicates the " fury of the theologians,'' from which Luther prayed to be delivered. Krell was certainly far less deserving of death than Servetus, who was exe- cuted in Geneva by the Reformed, because he was a blasphemer. Such things cannot happen now. The new Reformed church in the Friedrich's Ring is a fine building, which was erected in 1894. 322 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Many Dresden ers decorate the outside of their houses with flowers. At some large hotels and other buildings all the window sills are covered with gerani- ums, etc., and thus present a bea^utiful appearance. Dresden is noted not only for its fine arts, but also for its excellent schools. Many Americans send their children to this city to learn German and French. We spent several hours at Falkenberg, a village, which gave us an opportunity to see how the country people live. In this region, as in so many others, all the people reside in villages or towns. Practically no separate dwellings are found in the country. Falken- berg is a place of considerable size, with wide streets. Nearly all the houses are only one story high. Many of them stand some distance apart. In numerous instances barns front toward the streets. Some of the citizens have small farms right in the village. At a certain place a lady was putting coal into her cellar. In Germany, Italy and other European states all the soft coal is marketed in briquettes. Those for domes- tic use are about the size of paving bricks, whilst those for the railroad engines and other purposes are much larger. Great piles of coal blocks are found at every railroad station. The lady at Falkenberg informed us that there is no waste in the coal and very little dirt connected with the handling of it. The blocks can easilv be broken, if desired. The good Falkenbergers have erected a modest, but neat monument to the memory of their fellow citizens who perished during the wars of Prussia with Austria in 1866 and with France in 1870-71. The monument bears this pious inscription : "Gott war mit uns, Ihm WITTENBERG. 323 die Ehre.'^ The people are a plain folk, and evidently industrious and frugal. A few days before our visit they had a ** Turn Fest," and some of the decorations in honor of the event were still in position. The numerous beer tables in front of several saloons showed that the people did not suffer for the want of "wet goods." It was a source of great delight for our party to visit the town of Wittenberg, one of the cradles of the Reformation in Germany. The town is not large now, and was much smaller in the sixteenth century, but here the bugle blast of the Eeformation was sounded in no uncertain tone, and from here went forth influences which convulsed nearly the whole country. On October 31, 1517, Luther nailed his celebrated ninety-five theses to the doors of the Schloss Kirche in Wittenberg, and this act is gener- ally regarded as the real beginning of the Reformation in Germany. Luther performed a large part of his great work while residing in Wittenberg. Aside from its religious associations, which attract thousands ol tourists every year, the place would be of little impor- tance. Wittenberg, like Dresden, is situated in Prussian Saxony, and also on the river Elbe, which is here 800 feet wide, and sixty miles southwest of Berlin. The population is about 22,000. The place is first men- tioned in 1108. It was the residence of the Dukes and Electors of Saxony from 1212 to 1422. At the eastern border of the town we saw the first object of interest — a large oak tree which marks the spot where Martin Luther on December 10, 1520, publicly 324 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. burned the Papal Bull (Decree of the Pope) by which he was excommunicated from the Koman Church for preaching the Evangelical doctrines. As is well known, Luther had been brought up in the Catholic Church and been ordained a priest. He had also been an Augustinian monk at Erfurt. In the course of time he realized his sinful condition and searched the Scriptures for relief. The means offered by the Church did not satisfy him. While in the city of Rome in 1511 he sought peace by ascending the Sa- cred Stairs, which were formerly a part of Pilate's Judgment Hall in Jerusalem, and which Jesus is sup-^ posed to have ascended. Then as now people believed that by ascending this stairway on their knees and re- peating the Lord's Prayer upon each step, their sina would be forgiven. Luther tried this plan, but found it unsatisfactory. When half-way up the stairs the passage : " The just shall five by faith '' flashed into his mind, and he arose and left the place. He subse. quently found the true source of forgiveness and peace — the Lord Jesus. Then his preaching the true gospel brought him into conflict with the authorities of the Church, and after efforts to induce him to recede from his position had failed, the Pope issued his Bull. But Luther was a conscientious man and a hero. Instead of yielding the truth, he publicly burned the Papal Bull. This act of Luther required a high degree of courage. The Pope was the man who had the power to put men upon thrones and to depose them at will, but here was a plain preacher who feared not to take a firm stand against the mighty Pope. The case reminds us of David and Goliath. Luther's heroism had its ground in God. WITTENBERG. 325 Next we came to the Augusteum, erected in 1564- «3 as a moaastery, but in 1817 converted into a Theo- logical Seminary. In Luther's time a school was con- ducted here. The lecture room is shown visitors. Connected with this place is Luther's house, in which he resided in 1508, when he was called from Erfurt to occupy a chair in the University of Wittenberg. He also occupied the house at a later period, and in 1526 it was presented to him by the Elector. At the en- trance is this inscription : " Here Dr. Martin Luther lived and labored from 1508 to 1546." This house is now a Luther Museum, containing numerous objects relating to the great reformer and his time. In one room are a drinking goblet of Luther, but broken ; his table, bench and stove, the latter being of enormous size and made according to Luther's own directions ; parts of his pulpit from the city church, in which he often preached ; portraits of Luther, his wife and others. Luther's study remains practically as it was in his day. In this room he translated the New Testament. (The O'd Testament he translated in the Wartburg, near Eisenach.) In another room are sev- eral old paintings on wood. One represents the Ten Commandments in allegorical form, with a rainbow. The picture is said to represent a value of a million marks ($250,000). Another picture represents^ a vineyard, which the Protestants are cultivating, whilst the Catholics are destroying, Christ meanwhile motion- ing the priests away. There are also numerous por- traits of Luther, his parents and others; copies of Luther's betrothal and marriage rings ; letters of Lu- ther, keys of the castle church, numerous medals of 326 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Reformation times, many books of the same period, both from friends and enemies of the Reformation ; a model of the beautiful Luther monument at Worms ; first edition of Luther's works, etc. The lecture room of Luther contains the old platform and seat occupied by the Reformer whilst teaching, also '^ the arms of the four faculties of Wittenberg University, and portraits of Luther, Melancthon and the Electors of Saxony.*' The several rooms of the old Luther house are devoid of paint and exceedingly plain. We next visited the home of Philip Melancthon, Luther's right hand man. They lived almost next- door neighbors. Melancthon's house also remains prac- tically as he left it at his death. The iront of the house bears this inscription in German : " Here resided, taught and died Philip Melancthon." His study con- tains his original writing table, three candle sticks, a wash stand and a money chest. The bed in which the reformer died is preserved in an upstairs room. The house is pretty large and well preserved. In the gar- den in the rear of the house is a large stone table from Melancthon's time. The old well is still in use, and our party drauk some of its clear water. Here lived and labored as neighbors two men who did more to reform the religion of Germany than any other two persons, and their memory is held in grateful remembrance throughout Protestantism. They fought a good fight. Theirs was also a hard fight. It was a conflict between the true gospel and the dead formalism of the Roman Church. Luther at times felt as if he were face to face with the evil one. This feeling became so real to him whilst engaged in translating the WITTENBEEG. 327 Bible in the Wartburg that at a certain time he seized his inkstand and hurled it at Satan, as he supposed. The University of Wittenberg, which was founded in 1502 by Elector Frederick the Wise, and in which Luther and Melancthon had been professors, was removed to Halle by Napoleon in 1816. The old Uni- versity building, close to Melancthon's house, is now used as a barracks for infantry. After a substantial dinner, including pigs' feet, we proceeded to the old and famous castle church, which contains the graves of Luther, Melancthon and others. The church is located at the western end of the town. It was erected in 1493-99. It was upon the wooden doors of this church that Luther nailed his famous ninety- five theses on October 31, 1517. During the Seven Years' War the Austrians in 1760 bombarded Wittenberg, and the wooden doors were burned. They were replaced in 1858 with bronze doors which now bear the theses in raised Latin letters. The interior of the castle church is of great interest. At the rear end, which we entered, are the graves of twenty- seven Elec- tors. In front of the pulpit are the graves of Martin Luther and Philip Melancthon. Luther died at Eisle- ben in 1546, whilst Melancthon died at his home in Wittenberg in 1560. Then there are memorials of Henning Goden, Elector Frederick the Wise and John the Constant, In the Sacristy are portraits of the Re- formers. The church was also seriousjy injured in 1813-14, bat was fully restored in 1885-92. The re- opening service in 1892 was attended by Emperor William II., present ruler of the German empire. Un- der the gallery are the words in large letters : " Eine 328 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. feste Burg " (A Strong Tower). There is a tower 289 feet high. It was a rare privilege to stand at the graves of the two foremost reformers under the pulpit from which they preached the true gospel with wonder- ful power. And the people have not yet forgotten the truth. Wittenberg is a thorougly Protestant town. Of the 22,000 people all but abour 700 are Protestants, In the centre of Wittenberg is the City Hall, a very old looking building. It was erected in the sixteenth century and restored in 1768, and contains the archives of the town. In front of this building are the bronze statues of Luther and Melancthon. The square base of Luther^s statue contains four inscriptions, the most prominent of which is as follows : "Ist's Gottes Werk, So wird's bestehen. Ist's Menschen Werk, Wird's untergehen.'^ This is a quotation from Luther's declaration, which, being interpreted, means : " If this is God's work, it will stand. If it is man's work, it will fall." The " Stadt Kirche " (city church) is also an inter- esting place. It is two hundred years older than the castle church, having been erected in the fourteenth century. Luther often preached in this church, and here in 1522 the communion was for the first time administered in both kinds. The church stands in an open square. There are two interesting paintings in this church. One represents Melancthon as adminis- tering the communion, and in the other one Luther is preaching to a small congregation, in which the two foremost figures are his wife and son. Everything in JUETERBOG. 329 this building has the appearance of great age. Along- side of the city church is a small building bearing the name of Corpus Christi Chapel, which also dates from the fourteenth century. This is an interesting relic of the past. Many of the streets of Wittenberg are nar- row, and the houses are mostly old and small. After leaving Wittenberg on our way to Berlin we passed through the town of Jiiterbog. This place reminds us that the notorious John Tetzel resided here and sold *' indulgences " - forgiveness of sins in advance for the living, and deliverance from purgatory for the departed. The Pope at Rome was in need of money, and the sale of indulgences was used as a means for securing it. Tetzel was a Dominican friar. He had a box, still preserved, in the church of St. Nicholas, into which he cast the money received from the sale of his peculiar goods. It is charged that he used to exclaim : " Wie das Geld im Kasten klingt. Die Seel aus dem Fegfeuer springt." (As the money jingles in the box, the soul escapes from purgatory.) This sacrilegious traffic greatly aroused the indignation of Luther. He declared : " God will- ing, I will beat a hole in his drum," and soon after nailed his famous theses upon the church door. Tetzel was forced to leave Jiiterbog and he went to Frankford- on-the-Oder, where he published some counter theses and publicly burned those of Luther. The town has a population of over 7,000. 22 CHAPTER XX.-CITY OF BERLIN. The German Capital.— Emperor William II.—" Unter den Linden."— Monuments and Public Buildings.— The Royal Palace.— The Dom.— Other Churches. Relisrious Conditions.— Postsdam and Sanssouei—Charlottenburg— Beau- tiful Mausoleum. UR party spent some days in the city of of Berlin, the capital of the German Empire and of the Kingdom of Prus- sia. It is the third city in Europe in size, having a population of over three million people, including the suburbs, and is located on the river Spree, which divides it into two parts, and in the very centre of Germany. The city is built upon a very level site, perhaps more so than any other city we visited. The population has increased rapidly in recent years. In 1871, when it became the capital of the German Empire, it was 826,000 ; now it is, as stated, about 3,000,000, including a gar- rison of nearly 25,000 soldiers. Berlin is an old city. In the thirteenth century the central part was inhabited, but for a long time it was little more than a fishing village. It was of little im- portance until the time of that noble ruler, Elector Frederick William, who ruled from 1640 to 1688. After he had succeeded in uniting the various duchies into the state now known as Brandenburg, he made Berlin the capital of the state, and its growth and im- portance date from that time. Frederick William gave the persecuted Huguenots of France an asylum in THE GERMAN CAPITAL. 331 his country, and in this way received many of the best citizens of that country. France did not know that she was banishing her very best citizens to Branden- burg, America and elsewhere, but such was the fact. Two weeks after France had issued the edict which drove 400,000 Huguenots out, Frederick William issued an edict welcoming them to his country. Five thou- sand of them came and settled in Berlin. They aided greatly in making the city prosperous. Many of the newcomers were expert mechanics. Their descendants claim that their Huguenot fathers taught the Germans many useful trades. The gentleman who showed us the splendid French Eeformed church near the centre of the city made the same claim. He stated that be- before the coming of the Huguenots the people of Ber- lin " were as dumb as beans." Many thousand other Huguenots settled in other parts of Brandenburg, now included in Prussia. Fred- erick William^s wife encouraged and aided her husband in his kind treatment of the Huguenots. She was the beautiful and noble Electress Louisa Henrietta, well- known as the composer of several of our best German hymns, including '^ Jesus, meine Zuversicht." She was a descendant of the great French admiral Coligny. She was as pious as she was beautiful, caring nothing for fashion, but devoting her life largely to charity and religion, whilst her husband was always ready to de- fend the persecuted Frenchmen. When the German army invaded France in 1870 it is said that some forty of the principal commanders were descendants of the Huguenots who were driven out of France after the revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685. It was a kind of home-coming, but one with a vengeance. 332 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Under Frederick the Great, Berlin continued to prosper. But its most rapid growth has been during the last forty years, since the erection of the German Empire. Berlin is now a large and beautiful city. There are said to be 600 streets, 65 public squares, 48 bridges across the river Spree, 700 public buildings, and about 300,000 dwellings. Very many of the latter are apartment houses. The population is very much congested. It is asserted that 60,000 families live in one room each, and one- tenth of the population is said to live in cellars. There are single buildings in which as high as 1,000 persons are housed. The very poor in Berlin have a hard lot. There are many unem- ployed men standing or sitting in public squares. The buildings in the newer part of the city present the ap- pearance of great solidity. Evidently the people of Berlin do not believe in so-called *^ sky-scrapers," like some in American cities, for in 1877 the height of buildings was limited to 72 feet. The most prominent and best known street is the wide avenue called Unter den Linden. It is 198 feet wide and about two-thirds of a mile long, extend- ing from the Brandeoburg Gate in the west to the monument of Frederick the Great in the east. It de- rives its name from the fact that there are two rows of lime trees near the centre of the street. Between these rows is a wide passage for pedestrians, and between the trees and the pavements are two driveways. This wide street is lined with the priacipal stores in the city, and on it frout several palaces and other public build- ings. The eastern end or beginning of the Unter den Linden is at the Lustgarten, where the large Palace of EMPEEOR WILLIAM II. 333 tha present emperor, the Cathedral, etc., are located. We had read much about this great street, but we were disappointed in one respect — the trees are rather small and many of them have a sickly appearance. Some are dead, and others appear as if they were in a dying condition. Our first stroll led us through the Avenue of Vic- tory in the famous Thiergarten, a beautiful park in the western part of the city. This is a magnificent street, which has been adorned at the expense of the present emperor with 32 statues in fine white marble of Prus- sian rulers, beginning with Margrave Albert the Bear of 1170. The monuments stand at short distances from each other and are suitably inscribed. One of the in- scriptions is : " Margrave Henry the Child ;" another : " Margrave Otho the Lazy." There are 16 monuments on each side of the street. Presently we came to the Brandenbii^;: Gate. In approaching it we noticed persons burryiug iorward and the police motioning the people off the street. This looked like an indication that something of special in- terest was about to occur, and so it was. We had hardlv reached the curb of the street when three white automobiles came rushing along at great speed. The second one was occupied by Emperor William II. and the Empress. We readily recognized him. All the people cheered. The party was on the way to the country for a morning ride. About an hour later, when we had reached the neighborhood of the palace, the imperial party returned and we had the opportunity of seeing Ibe emperor a second time. We considered this a rare treat, for whilst we inspected some fifteen royal 334 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. palaces during our tour, William II. was the only reigning monarch we were permitted to see. On the following day we saw one of the emperor^s sons, Prince August William, at Potsdam. He is a fine looking young man. Emperor William reached the imperial throne of Oermany at the age of twenty-nine years, in 1888. In that year Germany had three emperors — William I.; his son, Frederick III., and the latter^s son, William II., the present ruler. The first named ruled 33 years. He commenced his military career with the campaign against the first Napoleon in 1814, and closed it with the war against the third Napoleon in 1870-71. His son, Frederick III., ascended the throne as a sick man and died three months later, when his son, the present emperor, entered upon his reign. Emperor William II. is^an aggressive ruler. He is constantly advocating a larger army and navy. Some are of the opinion that he has designs upon England. On the other hand, because the German nation is rap- idly increasing and France is stationary or decreasing, some Frenchmen fear that the time may come when their country will be conquered by the Germans. The German people, however, do not seem to have a war- like spirit. They appear to have had enough of war. The Thiergarten begins at the western end of Un- ter den Linden, and is entered through the Brandenburg Gate, built in imitation of the Propylsea at Athens, in 1789-93. Great Doric columns form fine passages, the middle ones for vehicles and the lateral ones for foot-passengers. The gate is surmounted by a figure of Victory riding in a chariot drawn by four horses. MONUMENTS. 335 West of the gate are fine marble statues of Emperor Frederick III. and Empress Victoria. Near the Brandenburg Gate are several objects of interest. The most striking one is the Monument of Victory, 200 feet high, erected in 1884 to commemo- rate the restoration of the German Empire. The mon- ument rests upon a huge square base, above which are 60 cannon, in three rows, captured from the Danes, Austrians and French. The whole is surmounted by several eagles. This is one of the most imposing mon- uments in Europe. It bears this inscription : " Das Dankbare Vaterland dem Siegreichen Heere.'' The monument cost over $5,000,000. Nearby is the colossal national monument to Prince Bismarck, erected in 1901. Upon a granite base stands the great Chancellor in bronze, and about him are ar- ranged four groups : Atlas bearing the globe ; Siegfried forging the imperial Sword ; Constitutional Authority tramping upon sedition, and Statecraft seated upon a Sphinx. In close proximity are the monuments to Gen. Von Moltke and Gen. Roon. Nearby are the offices of the general staff of the army, where Gen. Von Moltke died in 1895. He was the famous tacti- cian of the German armies in Austria in 1866 and in in France in 1870-71. Von Moltke was a great lin- guist, and could speak seven languages. But he was a very quiet man, wherefore it was said he could keep silent in seven languages. Some distance east- ward stands the large and beautiful Hall of the Im- perial Diet, erected 1884-94, at a cost of $5,000,000. " The central structure is covered by a huge glass dome, bearing a lantern encircled with columns and sur- 336 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. mounted by an imperial crown (225 ft.). At the cor- ners are four towers, 195 feet high, on which are figures typifying the industries and occupations of the Ger- man people. Between these are the names of the Ger- man princes reigning in 1871." The building presents a fine and imposing appearance. Here the National Congress of Germany holds its sessions. Going eastward we passed the statue of Frederick the Great in bronze, which stands in the centre of the street Unter den Linden, and is 44 feet high. It was erected in 1851. On the pedestal are representations of scenes from the king's life. Near the statue, on the south side of the street, is the palace of Emperor William I., which is now occu- pied by Prince Henry. This was erected in 1834-36. The apartments of William I. and Augusta are kept as they were. Here resided the old emperor in far less splendor than the rulers of the present day. The University of Berlin, although established only in 1809, is a large institution, with nearly 400 profes- sors and instructors, and over 8,000 students. The in- stitution is housed in the former palace of Prince Henry, which was built in 1748-66. It possesses a library of 300,000 volumes. Many noted men have been connected with the faculty of the university, such as Fichte, Hegel, Schieiermacher, Neander, Lep- sius, etc. The Royal Library nearby is located in a magnificent new building, not yet completed. The Zeughaus (arsenal) is a large and interesting museum. It was commenced already in 1694, and completed in 1706. " It is a square structure, each side of which is 295 feet in length, enclosing a quad- THE EGYAL PALACE. 337 rangle 125 feet square.^' This buildicg con tains a vast collection of all kinds of instruments of war — instru- ments for killing people™ from a small pistol to large cannon, and specimens of all kinds of arms of ancient and modern times. Formerly implements of war were very crude as compared with those of the present day. On the walls are fine large paintings of military achievements, including the surrender of Napoleon at Sedan, and incidents of various other wars. The Zeug- haus is a popular place. Thousands of people were in the building at the time of our visit. This collection affords a good opportunity to study the art of war. We had the pleasure of inspecting the large palace of Emperor William II., which is in the central part of the city. Here the imperial family resides during the greater part of the year. During the summer it occupies the New Palace, a short distance west of Sanssouci. (See below.) The city palace is the largest of the seven or eight that are in and near Berlin. It has some 700 apartments. Nearly all parts of this place are open to the public, except those used by the imperial family. Here, as at Coblentz, we were furnished with large slippers, with which we slid through the rooms, in order that we might not injure the highly polished floors. We could really not walk, because the slippers would fall off" our feet. They reminded us somewhat of the snow shoes which people in the far North wear to slide over the snow and ice. The palace is 650 feet long and 380 feet deep, and is built around two large courts. The four- story build- ing is 98 feet high, and its dome rises to the height of 232 feet. The original castle here was erected by Elector 338 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Frederick II. in 1443-51. It has since been enlarged and changed. There are four entrances, one in the centre of each side. The palace abounds in large and beautiful paintings and costly furniture. There are numerous portraits of Electors, Kings and Emperors. The picture gallery, 197 feet long, is now used as a banquet hall. Of special interest to us was the beau- ful "White Room, because here in 1613 Elector John Sigismund, the ruler of Brandenburg, declared himself in favor of the Reformed faith. This declaration meant a great deal, especially when we remember that he had been brought up a Lutheran and that his people were overwhelmingly of that persuasion. The feeling against Galvanism was so intense at that time that it was a common thing to name a dog " Calvin." The palace chapel is a fine place of worship. (The Emperor, when in the city, usually attends services in the Cathedral.) On the west side of the palace stands the elaborate monument to Emperor William 1., which was erected in 1897. It represents the Emperor as riding a horse led by the genius of peace. We paid two visits to the Dom or cathedral church, which is located quite near the palace, on the east side of the Lustgarten. This is a beautiful modern building erected in 1894-1905. The building is 344 feet long, 246 feet wide, and its dome is 102 feet in diameter, surmounted by a cross. Whilst a very large building, the place of worship is not large, the seating capacity being 1,960. A large portion of the building is occupied by a memorial chapel, and a wedding and baptismal ehapel. THE DOM. 339 The new cathedral stands upon the site of an humble edifice which was erected between 1747 and 1750 by Frederick the Great, and restored in 1820 by Frederick William III. Until that time the Dom was a Re- formed church. In 1817 it was included in the then formed United or State Church, but Frederick William III. stipulated particularly that the authority of the Re- formed Confessionals should not be abrogated through the Union. The Hohenzollern or ruling family of Germany has for generations belonged to the Reformed Church. In 1871 the idea of erecting a metropolitan cathedral worthy of Protestant Germany was advanced by the crown prince, afterwards Emperor Frederick. The foundation stone was laid by the present emperor on June 17, 1894, and the church was dedicated on Feb. 27, 1905, so that the work was executed in less than 11 years. The site, which is closeto the eastern arm of the river Spree, on the island which contains the royal castle, and the great edifices of the Royal Museum and National Galleries, necessitated very elab- orate foundations. The east side of the cathedral rises straight out of the water. The new edifice is built of Silesian gray sandstone, in the style of the Italian Rennaissance. The central cupola, with the cross which surmounts it, reaches a height of 374 feet, which is nine feet more than the height of St. Paul's in London, and only 79 feet less than the height of St. Peter's in Rome. The cost of erection was $3,500,000. This is the first Protestant cathedral (Reformed and Lutheran) erected in modern Germany, and was intended by the Emperor William to be the Metropolitan Protestant church of the German empire. 340 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. The dedicalion of the Dom in 1905 took place in the presence of the Emperor William and many state officials and army officers. There were also present by personal invitation three representatives of the Re- formed, Lutheran and Presbyterian Churches of Amer- ica. Dr. John H. Prugh, of Pi'^tsburg, then president of the General Synod, represented the Reformed Church. When the procession entered the new church its bells, as well as the bells of all Protestant churches of Berlin, began to ring, announcing that the ceremony of conse- cration had begun. The same thing happened at the close of the impressive service. The Memorial Chapel on the north occupies a large part of the Dom. It contains the tombs of a number of eminent persons, such as Frederick William, the Great Elector, who died in 1688 ; King Frederick I,, who died in 1713, and Emperor Frederick III., who died in 1888. Here is also a large statue of Prince Bismarck. Below is the HohenzoDern Burial Vault, to which the coffins of 87 members of this ruling family have been transferred. This vault is not open to the public. We attended worship in the Dom on Sunday, August 7. Over the entrance are ths passages in German : " Lo I am with you alway, even to the end of the World " — " This is the Victory that overcometh the World, even our Faith." The interior is beautiful. There are statues of Luther, Zwingli, Melancthon, Calvin, Fred- erick the Wise, Joachim II., Philip the Magnanimous and Albert of Prussia. In the attic are ten figures of the Apostles, with Christ in the centre. These are 17 feet high. There are reliefs of Luther, Matthew, Mark, THE DOM. 341 Luke and John. The vaulting of the great dome is adorned with representations of the nine beatitudes. In the rear of the altar is a beautiful window, not very large, with scenes of the birth, crucifixion and ascen- sion of Christ. Above the altar is the inscription : " Be ye reconciled unto God." The minister wore a gown and surplice. The service was plain, and the sermon good, but the acoustics of the church are so bad that we could not understand a large part of the dis- course. The large dome causes a pronounced echo. The singing was vigorous. Three old familiar hymns were sung — "Ehre den Herrn, den machtigen Konig der Ehren'' ; "Ein' feste Burg ist unser Gott," and "Mit unserer Macht ist nichts gethan." There is a separate small gallery for the royal family, and another for the ministry. Every seat was occupied, as might well be expected. A large proportion of those present were strangers. The service was conducted by Court Preacher Kritzinger. His text was : "If God be for us, who can be against us?'' Romans 8: 31. He referred to the Lord's help in achieving victory in 1870. Alter the regular service the Lord's Supper was administered, for which only the communicants remained. There are some half a dozen pastors connected with this church, whose members number many thousands. It was a grand sight, at the close of the service, to see hundreds of people descending the beautiful steps. Some lingered to view the building. It was a perfect day. As we stepped from the church into the Lust- garten (a beautiful flower-garden) a large military band was playing "Dixie," "Marching through Georgia" and other selections. It need hardly be stated that this music was pleasant to our ears. 342 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Of the sixty Protestant churches a number date from the thirteenth century. Some have been erected during the last thirty years. The St. Peter's church has the loftiest spire in the city, being 315 feet high. Berlin is poorly supplied with churches, there being about 75, for a population of about 3,000,000, but a few more than we have in our city of Reading, Pa., with a population of less than 100,000. Over 80 per cent, of the population of Berlin is Protestant. Nearly all these people belong to the United or State Church, which was formed by a forced union of the Reformed and Luth- eran Churches in 1817. State Churches always pro- duce a deadening effect upon spiritual religion. Here all people must be members of the church in order to enjoy their civil rights. The consequence is that many join the Church as a matter of form, but are indifferent to religion. Then many of the ministers are rational- ists, who fail to preach the pure word of God. The number of churches is out of ail proportion to the pop- ulation. It is said that if all the servant girls in Ber- lin alone would propose to attend church at a given time there would not be sufficient seats for them. Not many years ago if was stated that there was a certain district in the city with a population of 80,000 and only one church, and this one with only 500 seats. In recent years a good deal of mission work has been done in Berlin. Emperor William is said to encour- age the founding of more churches. The following figures, which appeared in a religions paper in September, 1910, show the religious destitu- tion of Berlin : St. John's congregation, including 75,- 000 souls, with five ministers and one church with 1 ,200 FRENCH CHUKCH. 343 seats ; the Redeemer's congregation includes 63,000 souls with five ministers and one church with 1,200 seats J the Emaus congregation includes 102,000 souls, the Holy Cross congregation 104,000 souls, St. An- drew's 57,000, Schoenberg 77,000. The French Reformed church on French street is an imposing building, with a beautiful dome. An in- spection revealed the fact that it is more of a memorial than a church. The larger part is occupied by a lecture hall and various other rooms. One room contains por- traits of the pastors of the church and of John Cal- vin, pictures of Huguenots leaving France after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, etc. The western part of the building contains the church proper, but this is not very large in proportion to the size of the building. There are seats for about one thousand per- sons. Everything is quite plain. There is no altar, and the communion table is a common piece of furni- ture. . There are about 5,000 souls of all ages belong- ing to this French Reformed church. The services are conducted in the French and German languages, alter- nating every Sunday. The services are conducted in a simple form and usually continue about an hour. Un- fortunately they are not well attended, because most of the members reside at a great distance from the church. This church was erected in 1705 by French Re- formedlpeople. An inscription at the western end is as follows : " Gott zur Ehre, der Gemeinde zum Segen. Unter dem Schutze der Hohenzollern erbaut 1705. Er- neuert 1905." Originally the members resided in the immediate vicinity of the church, hence the name of 344 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. French street. In the course of time their properties became very valuable, being located in the heart of Berlin, which led most of them to sell out and locate in the outskirts, where property was cheap. Many of them can now live on the income from the money they received for their properties. This largely accounts for the small attendance on Sundays — 50 to 100 at the German ser- vice and 150 to 200 at the French. Only those per- sons can became members who are able to prove by documentary evidence that they are descended from French Huguenots. (On page 331 the reader will find something about the French Huguenots who flocked to Berlin and Brandenburg.) A short distance north of the French church is a Lutheran church very similar in appearance. There is only an opera house between the two buildings. In front of a Lutheran church stands a fine monu- ment to Luther, which is surrounded by figures of Me- lancthon, Reuchlin, Ulrich von Hiitten, Bugenhagen and other reformers. This is in one of the older sec- tions of the city. The heart of the city of Berlin is situated upon an island in the river Spree. Here are the large Boyal Palace, the Dom, three Museums and the National Gal- lery. The latter contains many beautiful paintings. The collection embraces over 1,100 paintings, 233 sculptures and 30,000 drawings, mostly by German artists. The Old and the New Museums contain vast collections of ancient and modern relics. They are especially rich in specimens from Egypt. Some one has said that persons can study Egypt better here than in Egypt itself. The Old Museum contains a collection CITY OF BERLIN. 345 of 90,000 coins. The Emperor Frederick Museum was erected as late as 1898-1903, and opened in 1904. In the latter place are also some fine paintings. Some represent scenes from the life of Joseph. One represents the reformer John Huss being led to the stake. With uplifted eyes this saint firmly walks to the place of execution. There is a vast number of statues in various parts of the city to the memory of rulers and other eminent men. On Sunday the business houses in Berlin are all closed ; only the candy shops and restaurants are open. The latter all sell liquor on Sunday. There is natur- ally much drinking, but we saw no cases of intoxica- tion on Sunday in Berlin. Crowds of people visit the museums, picture galleries and parks on Sunday. There are more than 10,000 Jews in Berlin. This is a small number comparatively. (In the city of New York there are 900,000.) Those in Berlin have a large new Synagogue which was erected in 1866. Its in- terior is richly decorated and has a gilded dome 158 feet high. There are seats for 3,000 persons. The Zoological Garden contains one of the largest collection of animals in Europe. The Botanical Gar- den at Schoneberg contains some 25,000 specimens. The E-eichsbank (Imperial Bank) has a capital of $30,000,000 and 218 branch offices. This institution is to Germany what the Bank of England is to the British Empire. Berlin is a great manufacturing city. Its industries are of many kinds. Of course beer is one of the most prominent. More than 50,000,000 gallons are brewed 23 346 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. here every year. It is, however, an eocouragiDg sign that the consumption of beer is on the decrease in Ger- many. It is reported that during the last ten years it has decreased 15 quarts per capita. It is gratifying that Emperor William is encouraging temperance. Last November, in formally opening the new naval academy at Miirwicb, he urged the cadets to abstain from liquor and to join temperance societies. He said that the nation which in the future used the smallest amount of alcohol would march at the head of the column on the fields of art and war. Formerly Leipzig was the formost publishing centre in Germany, but now Berlin occupies this place. There are some 600 periodicals published in the capital, in- cluding about 30 daily papers. The people of Berlin generally speak excellent Ger- man. Although there are very many dialects used in the country, in this city we heard only excellent lan- guage. We were somewhat surprised that our Penn- sylvania German dialect is entirely unknown among them. One of our party frequently tried to use his native dialect when English was not understood, but it always failed. To our amusement the same friend also tried Pennsylvania German on the Italians, but they only shook their heads. We felt we had to see Potsdam and Sanssouci, six- teen miles southwest of Berlin, on the river Havel. The population is about 60,000. There are several places of much interest in this city. The first one reached from the station, after passing a statue of Em- peror William I., is the Town Palace, "originally erected about 1660, but dating in its present form from POTSDAM. 347 1751." Here resided Frederick William I. and Fred- erick the Great, Frederick William was afflicted with gout and spent much time inside the palace. To while away the long hours he painted a picture of a lady, but when finished it was found that he had given her two left feet. The amateur artist explained the error by saying that no doubt it resulted from the fact that he constantly suffered great pain in his left foot. The picture is still shown. Its two left feet present an odd appearance. Instead of a stairway in the palace he caused an incline plane to be built, so that he could go up and down in a roller chair. The southeastern part of this Town Palace was occupied by Frederick the Great, son of Frederick William I. He was in many respects a peculiar man. In the corner of the palace is a small room shut off by double doors, so that he could be absolutely private and not be overheard by any one. In this room he also dined at times with intimate friends. There is a large table, around which he and his guests sat. The central part is so constructed that it can be let down into the kitchen. In this way the table could be supplied with food without any waiters entering the room. Outside this room stands a lime tree which is said to be two hundred years old. At this spot people would stand with petitions to the king when they could not reach him in the ordinary way. When Frederick appeared at the window the people held up their petitions, and he would send for them. The sleeping and other rooms of Frederick the Great are preserved as he left them. The latter part of his life was spent in the one-story palace at Sans- 348 EAMBLES IN EUROPE. souci, one-half mile northwest from here. (See below.) The king had a body-guard of 100 soldiers, each of whom bad to be 6 J feet tail. The apparatus by which recruits for the guard were measured is still in existence and is shown to visitors. There are numerous paint- ings in the palace, but everything looks old and in striking contrast to the more modern palaces. . An interesting story is told about Frederick the Great in connection with his body-guard of tall men. The captain once met an Irisman of large size, whom he wished to enlist for the guard. Patrick hesitated because he rould not speak German, but the captain had a plan for overcoming the difficulty. The king usually asked new recruits three questions : How old are you ? How long have you been in service ? Have you a uniform and rations ? So the captain " coached" the Irishman and told him how to answer the ques- tions. He was to answer that he was thirty years old, had been in service three months, and had both (uni- form and rations). But unfortunately the king re- versed the usual order of the first two questions and Patrick's answer caused him to ask an unusual one as the third. The conversation turned out thus : *^ How long have you been in the service ?" " Thirty years." " How old are you ?" " Three months." The king was now wrothy and asked : "Am I a fool, or are you?" The prompt answer was: "Both." We are not told whether Patrick was accepted. In this Town Palace is a large room filled with mounted birds and animals of many kinds which were shot by William II., the present ruler. Our guide stated that the emperor had shot 50,000 animals and birds, which is hard to believe. SAN8S0UCI. 349 The Garrison Church, located a short distance west of the above palace, was erected by Frederick "William I. in 1731-35. It has a steeple 290 feet high, and a beautiful pulpit between massive marble columns. About 1400 soldiers usually attend worship here. In a vault back of the pulpit rest the remains of Fred- erick William I., the founder of the church, and Fred- erick the Great. In this vault several interesting events occurred. Here in the presence of the remains of the two eminent men Frederick William III. of Germany and Alexander I. of Russia met and formed a friendly alliance on Nov. 4, 1805. In 1806 Napo- leon visited the tomb of Frederick the Great and said to his associates : *' Hats off. If he were still living,, we should not be here." The Friedens (Peace) church in the town contains the tombs of Frederick William IV., who died in 1861 ; Emperor Frederick III., who died in 1 888, father of the present emperor; Frederick's wife, who died in 1901, and their sons Waldemar and Sigismund. The Brandenburg Gate at Potsdam, which leads to Sans- souci, is a copy of the Trajan's Arch at Rome. We now proceeded to the palace at Sanssouci, whose approach is through a park and vast flower-gardens. Many steps lead up to the building. At the approach is the statue of Emperor Frederick III., erected in 1 903. Next we reached the Great Fo untain which sends its waters to a height of 130 feet. To our ngret it was not in action at the time of our visit. The twelve figures surrounding the basin are by French sculptors of the 18th century. Next we came to the equestrian statue of Frederick the Great. 350 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. Saassouci is a one -story palace, which was erected by Frederick the Great in 1745-47. Here the eccen- tric monarch spent the latter part of his life. The building is 320 feet long and 39 feet high. In its front are beautiful flow^er-beds. The rooms are nearly alto- gether as Frederick left them at his death. On the west side is Voltaire^s room. This man was a great favorite with Frederick and spent much time here. Then follow the rooms of Frederick William IV., in one of which he died in 1861. There are many fine paintings in the palace. In the concert room is a small clock which Frederick the Great himself used to wind. This clock stopped at the moment of his death at 2.20 a. m. on August 17, 1786. The hands of the clock still point to that time, the clock never having been wound since. Farther on is the room in which Fred- erick spent his last days a:nd died. There is a small statue of him sitting in his chair during his last days. He died in a chair at a window which is pointed out to visitors. There is also a death-mask of him in the room. The library of Frederick the Great is kept intact and contains about 1,000 volumes, nearly all in French. There are also some specimens of the king^s handwrit- ing and a drawing or design of the palace by himself. There is a picture gallery with a considerable number of portraits and paintings. Frederick the Great was a great friend of dogs. He had a number of these animals in his time, and estab- lished two small cemeteries for them at the eastern and western ends of the garden in front of the palace. At the eastern end are eleven dogs' graves in regular rows, SANSSOUCI. 351 with a square stone upon each grave, containing the name of the dog. At the western end there are two such graves. There is a story that the king had re- quested to be buried aside of his dogs, but this request was disregarded and he was laid to rest in the Garrison Church as stated above. Immediately west of the palace of Sanssouci is the famous old windmill property, about which Frederick the Great had a controversy with the owner. The mill obstructed the Emperor's view and he wished to pur- chase the property, but the owner refused to sell, be- cause he had inherited it. The story is that Frederick took forcible possession of the old mill and had it torn down. The owner took the matter into court and that body decided in his favor, and the king was compelled to restore the mill. Although a powerful monarch, he gracefully accepted the situation and declared : " Thank God that my country has good laws and honest judges." The old mill is an object of much interest to tourists. It is now royal property. A short distance west of the mill is the '^ Orangery," a large edifice in the Florentine style, 990 feet long, and completed in 1856. In front of the centre of the build- ing is a marble statue of Frederick William IV. On a terrace in front of the place are '^ the interesting as- tronomical instruments from the former Jesuit College at Pekin, cast in bronze by Chinese artists in 1673 and brought to Europe by the German troops in 1901." But how were they secured ? They were taken away during the Boxer uprising, when an allied army marched upon Pekin and took possession of the city. To say that the German troops brought them to Europe is a 352 EAMBLES IN EUEOPE. polite way of stating an act of questionable propriety. The instruments are valuable. Still a little farther west is the New Palace, although also erected by Frederick the Great in 1763-69. It is now the summer residence of the present Emperor. It contains 200 apartments, and, of course, many of them are beautifully furnished. Emperor Frederick III., father of the present ruler, died here on June 15, 1888. He was born here in 1831. The palace is 700 feet long and its erection cost about $22,500,000. All of the above buildings are surrounded by fine parks. We had to visit also Charlottenburg, formerly three miles west of Berlin, but now adjoining the city. There is a royal palace here where Emperor William I. spent much of his time. The palace is large and fine, but much plainer than most others. This was the favorite dwelling place of Emperor William I. In the chapel here he was confirmed, and in the same place his son, Prince Henry, brother of the present Emperor, was married. The spot where the aged father sat on this occasion is marked by a brass tablet. Since that occa- sion no service has been held in the chapel. In this palace Emperor Frederick III. spent ten weeks during his last illness in 1888. The palace was erected in 1695-99 by Frederick I. for his wife Sophie Charlotte, after whom the town was named. The town has a population of 266,000 people. The place has grown enormously in recent years. In 1880 the population was only 30,000. We visited the Emperor William Memorial Church, which was erected in 1891-95 in memory of the first Emperor of the new German Empire. It has a spire MAUSOLEUM. 353 370 feet high and an elaborate interior. There are many pictures of Bible scenes, with portraits of Christ, Moses, the Archangel Michael, John the Baptist and others, and statues of four Evangelists in the attitude of blessing. Near the altar is the imperial pew, richly decorated. There are also four pictures of scenes from the life of Emperor William I., in whose honor the church was erected. After walking some distance through a large park, largely of pine trees, we reached the beautiful white marble Mausoleum, erected in 1810. In this struc- ture rest the remains of Frederick William III. and his wife Louisa, and those of his second son. Em- peror William I. (died 1888), and of his wife Augusta, (died 1890). On top of the sarcophagus of each rests his or her statue in recumbent posture. These statues are of the finest white marble. Everything connected with the Mausoleum is of marble. Here in a some- what secluded spot in the park rest the remains of these eminent people. In returning from Potsdam to Berlin on a Saturday evening we found an enormous crowd of people at the Potsdam Bahnhof. How to get away safely without being run down either by trolly car or automobile was the great question. Finally we were enabled to board a car that took us to our hotel. In Berlin the car fare is usually two cents. For this sum one can ride a great distance. In a general way the car fares in Eu- rope are only about one-half as high as in America. Ours is a land of trusts and high prices. After leaving Berlin we set our faces westward toward Holland. Our way led us through Hanover and 354 EAMBLES IN EUROPE. Osnabriick. The former city has a population of 250,- 000. It contains many buildings of the fifteenth cen- tury, but the larger part of it is modern. It is the capital of the Prussian province of Hanover. Osna- briick is a town of some 60,000 people. The western part of Germany, through which we passed, is a fruitful, level region. The country is beautiful. The people were engaged in harvesting ex- cellent crops. In one field I counted fifteen women at work. Here and there a windmill was to be seen. This was an indication that we were going toward the Netherlands. At Loehe we changed to a Dutch train. The notices in the car told us of the change. One on the door was : " Niet open en voor de trein stillstaat " — (Not to be opened until the train stops.) The German language is noted for its many long words. But the Dutch language can also make some claims in this line. A circular of a steamboat company in Amsterdam con- tains this word: Havenstoombootdienst. At Deven- tere we passed over a long bridge which crosses the river Yssel, a branch of the famous Rhine. We were now in Holland, speeding toward Amsterdam. The country is very flat and there is much lowland. It is almost entirely a grazing country, and there were many fine cows in the fields. The windmills made their ap- pearance, as well as numerous canals. The day was spent and night was approaching. There was a glorious sunset. It was very much like a sunset at sea. The sun went down suddenly beyond the North Sea at 8.30. CHAPTER XXI.— HOLLAND. The Low Country.— The Land of Canals and Windmills. Amsterdam.— Royal Palace.— Historic Churches, Bible Hotel. OLLAND is called the Low Country, and such it certainly is. A part ®f the country is much lower than the sea, and the people have ever had to battle with its waves. Large embankments, called dykes, have been erected to pre- vent the sea from inundating the coun- try. At times, under great pressure from the waves of the sea, the dykes have given way, and great damage resulted. The Egyptians always sought to lead the waters of the river Nile into their fields. On the other hand, the Hollanders have ever been concerned to keep the sea out. The dykes must always be watched carefully, and every small breach instantly repaired for the safety of the country. During high storms watchmen are kept upon the embankments. In case the waves of the sea or the river start a leak, the church bells are rung, and the men rush to the dykes with spades and baskets to fill up the break, whilst the women go to church and pray for God's merciful protection. The river Rhine and other streams coursing through Hollandlare gradu- ally filling up with alluvial matter, and consequently the dykes must be raised from time to time, otherwise the whole country would be flooded. Much of the present area of Holland has been won from the sea by the erection of dykes. On this account Goldsmith 356 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. says : " The Dutchman has scooped out an empire from the ocean," and an old Dutch proverb says : " God made the sea, but the Hollander made the shore." The state has a special dyke department, which annually expends in maintainining the dyke ssixteen million dollars. Notwithstanding all precautions there is a vast deal of water everywhere in Holland. Consequently there are many canals for the purpose of draining the country. Many huge windmills are employed to pump the water from the fields into these canals, otherwise very much of the land could not be farmed. Some of the canals are also used for purposes of transportation, farmers bringing their crops home in boats by them. Canals are found not only in the country, but also in some of the cities, especially Amsterdam and Rotterdam. These cities are somewhat like Venice in Italy, where there are canals everywhere in place of streets, and where people go about altogether in boats instead of vehicles. In Amsterdam and Rotterdam large vessels are con- stantly passing through the cities. Again, these cities are like Venice, because they are founded upon piles driven into the marshy soil which serve as foundations. Many large buildings rest upon such piles. Holland is mostly a grazing country, and there is comparatively little grain raised. Less than one-half the country is tillable land, the larger part being meadow. There is very little change of scenery, and for this reason traveling through it is less interesting than is the case in most other countries. But the Hollanders have splendid cattle, mostly of the superior Holstein HOLLAND. 357 breed. Nowhere else have we seen so many fine milch cows. It is a beautiful sight to see thousands of such cows grazing in these lowlands as the train speeds along. Very large quantities of butter and cheese are produced in Holland. The exportation of these two articles amounts to upwards of fifteen million dollars worth per year. Holland is situated between Belgium on the south, Prussia on the east, and the North Sea on the west and north. It is a small country, being only 195 miles long and 110 miles at the widest point. It contains 12,630 square miles and has about 6,000,000 people. In some parts the population is very dense, being ex- ceeded in this matter by few other sections in Europe. The principal cities are Amsterdam, the capital ; Rotter- dam ; The Hague, the seat of government ; Utrecht, Groningen and Haarlem. It will be remembered that many of the early emigrants to America came through Amsterdam and Rotterdam. Holland has large colonial possessions in East India and the West Indies, and governs some 30,000,000 there. Like England, its colonies are many times larger than the home country, and the colonial population is many times larger than that of Holland proper. The Hollanders are known as the Dutch. Some people speak of them as being ignorant, and express their derision of them by calling them " Dum Dutch," but such persons only betray their own great ignorance. The Dutch are intelligent, brave, religious and in a general way an excellent people. There are four universities in this small country, located at Ley den, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Gronin- 368 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. gen, with a total of about 3,000 students. The govern- ment pays much attention to the education of the people, and bears thirty per cent, of the school expenses. The university at Leyden had an interesting origin in 1575. Spaniards had besieged the city from October, 1673, to October, 1574, but were unsuccessfur on ac- count of the heroic defense made by the citizens. As a reward for their bravery William of Orange, their ruler, offered to reward the citizens by either relieving them of taxes for a certain number of years or estab- lishing a university. The people chose the latter, and their university of Leyden is one of the most famous in Europe. The Reformed people of America are greatly in- debted to the Hollanders, because of the great and helpful interest which they took in the religious wel- fare of their poor, destitute forefathers. They sent them ministers. Bibles and money, and exercised a kindly supervision over them until the year 1793, when they organized their own synod. Then the whole American nation is greatly indebted to the Dutch, because nearly all our free institutions are modeled after theirs. We Americans are far more like the Dutch in this respect than like the people of England. The Hollanders have always been lovers of Evan- gelical truth. Perhaps no other country has suffered more than theirs for conscience sake. It is claimed that under Charles V. at least 100,000 persons were put to death for alleged heresy, that is, resistance to Romanism. Holland was frequently a place of refuge for the persecuted of other lands. It was such especially after HOLLAND. 359 the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, when thousands of French Huguenots fled to Holland. Those lovers of liberty were a valuable acquisition to the Dutch, for they afterwards helped to fight their battles for lib- erty. The massacre of St. Bartholomew's Night drove France's best citizens to Holland, Germany and else- where. The State religion of Holland is that of the Re- formed Church. About three-fifths of the people are Re- formed; the balance Catholics and Jews. The Re- formed churches are quite plain and devoid of ornamen- tation. They form a marked contrast to the richly ornamented Catholic churches in the neighboring king- dom of Belgium and elsewhere. The people are pious and opposed to pictures of saints in their churches. The Hollanders are proverbially a cleanly people. They have a world-wide reputation on this account. Women scrub their front door steps daily. The village of Broeck, near Amsterdam, excels perhaps all other places in this respect. It is stated that years ago there was a sign at the entrance to the village requiring all riders to dismount and lead their horses at a slow walk, so as not to cause any dust to rise. Strangers were warned not to smoke on the streets without lids on their pipes, so as not t® drop ashes on the pavements. Of course no such regulations exist now. In this connec- tion it may be stated that there was a time when smok- ing was not allowed in our good city of Reading, Pa. On May 6, 1820, the borough council passed an ordi- nance making it unlawful for any one to smoke a cigar or pipe in any street, alley or pavement, under a penalty of fifty cents for each offence. Minors who violated 360 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. the ordinance and failed to pay the fine at once, were liable to imprisonment for six hours. We now have an ordinance which forbids spitting on the pavements. Among the objects which attract the attention of travelers are the numerous windmills. There are thousands of them throughout the country. They are large and rather cumbrous -looking objects. As stated elsewhere, they are employed to pump the water from the lowlands into the canals, to grind the grain, to operate sawmills and for other purposes. They are operated by the wind, and thus nature is harnessed to perform important work. The bases of some wind- mills are large square buildings, which serve as dwell- ings. The wheels of the mills are often very large, and in some instances reach a height of 120 feet. These windmills are very different from those used in America. Amsterdam is the capital of Holland. The name means " Dam of the Amstel." The latter is the name of the river upon whose banks the city is situated. The city ^s divided by the Amstel and many canals into a hundred small islands, and these latter are connected by over 300 bridges. Nearly the whole city rests upon piles — -logs forty to fifty feet in length which are driven through soft sand into the firm clay. In this respect the city greatly resembles Venice in Italy. The fact of the peculiar foundations of Amsterdam " gave rise to the jest of Erasmus of Rotterdam that he knew a city whose inhabitants dwelt upon the tops of trees like rooks.'' The largest buildings rest on piles. It is a very old city. In the thirteenth century it was a mere fishing village; in 1482 it was walled and forti- ROYAL PALACE. 361 fied, and in 1625 it had 100,000 inhabitants. But the city suffered greatly from the effects of war. In 1653, as a result of the war with England, there were 4,000 vacant houses in the city. Amsterdam was repeatedly captured by foreign foes — in 1787 by the Prussians; in 1795 by the French. The union of Holland with France in 1810 entirely destroyed the foreign trade of Amsterdam. Amsterdam is a very level city, and there are few places which afford good views of it. What may be most easily seen are the many church towers and spires, and the numerous masts of vessels in the canals. The population is over half a million, of whom one-half be- long to the Reformed Church. Nearly 100,000 are Catholics and over 60,000 Jews. The Royal Palace is one of the most interesting buildings which we visited here. It is a plain looking building, and is perhaps all through the plainest of the fifteen or sixteen palaces visited by our party in Eu- rope. It vas erected in 1648 as the town hall at a cost of over three million dollars. The building rests upon 13,659 piles. It is 264 feet ^ong, 207 feet wide and 108 feet high, with a tower 187 feet high, contain- ing a set of chimes. When Louis Bonaparte was made king of Holland in 1 808 the building was presented to him as a royal residence by the city. There are a num- ber of fine paintings in the palace, among them one representing Jethro counselling Moses to appoint judges to share his labors ; Moses chosing the seventy elders ; Solomon's Praye* ; Moses on Mount Sinai. These are hung in the so called Moses Room. The throne room is lighted by 400 candles. The whole palace is lighted 24 362 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. by means of oil and candles. In this respect it differs from other palaces. " The large reception room is one of the most magnificent halls in Europe." The room is 117 feet long, 57 feet wide and 100 feet high. It is the only room of its size whose roof is unsupported by pillars. Everything here is constructed of fine Italian marble. This room contains many battle flags taken from the Spaniards three hundred years ago. Queen Wilhelmina resides here only about one week in each year. Amsterdam is the capital, although the actual seat of government is at The Hague. The OuDE Kerk (old church) is an interesting^ building and very old, having been erected in the year 1300. It is a large church— 294 feet long and 213 feet wide. The interior and roof are supported by forty-two round pillars. There are some beautiful win- dows, one dating from 1565 representing scenes from the history of the Virgin Mary. Two windows rep- resent the coat- of- arms of the Burgomasters of Amster- dam (mayors) from 1578 to 1767. Another window represents Philip IV., King of Spain, declaring the seven United Provinces free and independent at the peace of Munster in 1648. The organ, the lower part of which is of marble, was built in 1720. This is the oldest Reformed church which we visited. In this church is a monument to Admiral Van Heems- kerck. An inscription in Dutch states that this man tried to find a more direct route to China by the Arctic Sea. He was killed in 1607 in the battle of Gibraltar. There are also monuments to other famous men. Not over one-half of the church has seats provided for wor- shippers, the other half being occupied by memorials. HISTORIC CHURCHES. 363 The NiEUWE Kerk (new church) is a more mod- ern-looking building near the palace. It was first erected in 1408, and " restored after fires and outrages in 1421, 1578 and 1645." Here are also several monu- ments and some fine windows. One of the latter com- memorates the raising of the siege of Leyden in 1573- 74. Queen Wilhelmina, the present ruler of Holland, was crowned in this New Church in 1890. In 1898 the Dutch nation placed a fine window in this church in commemoration of this event. This is also a Re- formed church. The Reformed have 13 churches in the city, most of which have very large memberships. To the Catholics belong 22 churches. Near the New Church and the Palace is the Post- office. In my efforts to locate the latter I realized how difficult it is for even a German to speak with a Dutchman. I asked a gentleman the way to the post- office, but he did not know such a place. Then I asked him in German the way to the " Postamt," but neither did he know what that is. Finally I took an addressed letter from my pocket, when he saw what I wanted, and he exlaimed : " Postkantoor," and showed me the way. One of the most interesting places of worship is the Portuguese Synagogue of the Jews, which is a large building, located on Muider street, the principal one in the Jewish quarter, which is inhabited almost exclu- sively by Jews. This section is less clean than the other parts of the city. There are many small shops and from some of them an unpleasant odor issues. This synagogue was erected in 1670, and is claimed to be an imitation of the temple of Solomon. I asked our 364 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. guide ill what way, and he replied : " You see the syna- gogae is surrounded by a wall.'' Yes, but such is the case with some othtr houses of worship. However, this is an interesting place. The men sit in the lower part, and the women in the galleries. All keep their hats on their heads during the service. We noted six chandeliers which are as old as the building ; a chart with the Ten Commandments ; a plank in the plat- form 47 feet in length of wood from Brazil ; an oil lamp which is kept burning continually. The congregation owns a number of costly vessels, and consists of 5,000 members, all of whom are Portogaese. Their worship takes place daily at 6.30 a. m. and 6.30 p. m. All the members are orthodox Jews. As we entered we were informed that admission was free, but as we left a fee was demanded and paid. I could not help thinking that even in this matter w6^were dealing with Jews. The Jews of Amsterdam have ten synagogues, in one of which the services are conducted in the High German language. How are we to account for the presence of so many Israelitjs in Amsterdam? Dur- ing the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries these people were sorely persecuted in Spain, Portugal and the Spanish Netherlands, and many of them flocked to Amsterdam, which accorded them full religious tolera- tion. Many other Jews came also from Germany and Poland to escape persecution. They brought much wealth with them and contributed largely to the pros- perity of the city. Baruch Spinoza, the father of modern philosophy, born at Amsterdam in 1632, was the son of a Portuguese Jew. Rembrandt, the famous Dutch painter, resided in the Jewish quarter from 1540 BIBLE HOTEL. 365 to 1656, and a tablet marks the house of his abodd. Amsterdam is indebted to Portuguese Jews for the in- troduction of diamond polishing, an art unknown in Europe before the fifteenth century, after the sack of Antwerp in 1576. This art has since been wonder- fully developed here, so that there are now over seventy mills, employing about 12,000 workmen. One of the first and most welcome objects in Am- sterdam which met our eyes was an American flag which floated from a second story window of a build- ing in a business street in the centre of the city. The house was occupied as an American restaurant. The waving of this flag was most pleasing to us. During our stay in Amsterdam we lodged in the large and fine Bible Hotel. This is a singular name for a hotel. We had never met with one like it. The name is derived from the following story. It is claimed that the first Bible published in Holland was printed on the site where the hotel now stands by Jacob von Liesvelt in 1542. He was persecut ed on this account, but escaped through a rear window and fled to Ant- werp. He was there arrested, tried for heresy, found guilty and executed. The house was subsequently pur- chased by a Scotch family, turned into a hotel and this sign painted on the wall : " Drink no longer water, but take a little wine." (1 Tim. 5 : 23.) An old Bible, shown to guests at the hotel, contains this storj. But this is evidently only a story. The facts are that Jacob von Liesvelt published a Bible already in 1526 at Antwerp, issuing a second edition in 1542. He was beheaded in 1545 at Antwerp, because he had inserted a note in his Bible declaring that salvation can 366 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. come only through Jesus Christ. At that time it was a mortal offence to publish Evangelical truth. The circulation of Liesvelt's Bible was much feared and Charles V. prohibited it under heavy penalties in 1546, as did also his son Philip in 1569. The story as used by the hotel people shows how eager some people are to j ustify their business by means of the Bible. PauPs well-meant advice has been seized upon by many a liquorseller t@ justify his trade. Some such people seem to know this passage in the good .book, if no other. Here, as so often else- where, the wish is father to the thought. The sign of the original hotel is still used on the present one. Be- sides this there are two large figures of the open Bible on the front of the fine hotel building near the top. The hotel itself is well conducted and much frequented by visitors. It is claimed^o be the oldest in the city. On the occasion of its 255th anniversary a pamphlet was issued which recifes its history. There have been a number of Bible Hotels in Amsterdam. At the end of the 17th century there were three such in the same street. At Zaandam, near Amsterdam, is preserved an in- teresting relic from the time of Peter the Great of Russia. In order to gain a knowledge of shipbuilding he, while emperor, went to Zaandam in disguise and for some time worked as a common shipwright until his identity was discovered. During this time he lived in a rude wooden hut in 1697. It is stated that he passed under the assumed name of Peter Michaeloff. The hut is preserved and now belongs to the emperor of Eussia. CHAPTER XXII.— HOLLAND (Continued). Quaint Villages.— Marken Island.— Peculiar Costumes. Volendam.— Edam.— Siege of Haarlem.— The Hague. Famous Prison.— Rotterdam.— Dort. NE of my Reading friends had laid this injunction upon me : " Do not fail to visit Marken Island to see the peculiar Dutch costumes of the villagers." Our party agreed to spend one day in mak- ing an excursion to this place and sev- eral points on the route. We employed various modes of travel — first a small steamer from the centre of Amsterdam and across the harbor, then a trolly line, then another steamer, then a sail boat, then a house-boat drawn by two men, then the trolly again upon the return trip, and finally a steamer ooce more across the harbor to the startiuiB^ point. It was an elxceedingly interesting trip. We had already seen some people in Amsterdam wearing wooden shoes, but in the several villages vis- ited on this excursion we found nearly everybody, chil- dren and adults, wearing this kind of footgear. The route lay through a meadow region, in which many hundreds of fine Holstein cows were grazing. The country is traversed by numerous canals. Our first stop was at the small village of Bkoeck, which is noted for its extreme cleanliness. This is the village referred to on page 359. Some of the houses are open for inspection by visitors. We looked into several of them and found them models of neatness. At one we found this sign : '' Come in and see a Dutch farm 368 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. house." Everything was clean and simple. The people are poor, but apparently happy. Their wants are very few. They have a neat little church which contains a pulpit dating from the year 1685. There are several cheese factories here, and we were shown through one of them. Here we for the first time saw the inside of a building -which serves both as a stable and aid welling under one roof; aye, more than this ; it also includes a cheese factory. But everything was very clean. Here we drank a glass of milk, than which we never tasted any better. At MoNNiKENDAM we visited the old village church, which dates from 1420. The choir- screen in the church dates from 1562-63. There are a number of large, cumbersome Bibles in the pews. An old organ is in position against the wall. The large win- dows 'are composed of very small panes of glass. In the church are also many graves. The large belfry contains a clock. Many of the houses in the village are very old. The tower of the town hall dates from 1562-63. Here we bad the first fine view of the Zuider Sea. Our advent to the place attracted many children to our party. They had picture- cards, neat little baby-caps and other objects to sell. All were eager to sell their goods and their rapid running toward us in their wooden shoes over brick pavements pro- duced a strange noise. It sounded like " Clopp, clopp, clopp." At this place we boarded a small steamer for Mar- ken Island in the Zuider Sea, located a number of miles from, the western shore. The ride was delight- ful. Marken Island is one of the most interesting MARKEN ISLAND. 369 places in Hollands It is a fishermen's village of some 300 people. The visitor is at once impressed by the peculiar dress of the people. The men wear bloomers — short, wide trousers. Those of the married men are colored ; those of the unmarried are white. The women wear short dresses and white aprons. The other parts of their dress are mostly of various colors. All, men, women and children, wear wooden shoes, and thick woolen stockings. The women have long curls hang- ing down over their cheeks. Their dresses reminded one of Joseph's coat, which was of many colors. All the women do a great deal of knitting. As we passed through the village we met many women and girls of various ages thus engaged. They did this in the houses and on the streets. All appeared to be expert at this useful employment. Their fingers were knitting whilst their eyes were following the visitors. We inspected a number of homes, ail of which were very clean, though small and humble. These people require less room than most others. Few bedsteads are seen. Most beds are in wall- closets and are shelf-like. We saw several children asleep in such places. They have but little air, especia^y when the doors are closed. The cooking utensils were bright and shiny. These people on Mar- ken Island have a neat (Reformed) church, and a post and a telegraph office. All kinds of picture cards are for sale. The men's business is fishing in Zuider Sea, the women attending to the housework. Some little farm land surrounds the village, and there are canals instead of streets. E^'Crything is transported by boat. As we passed along we met two women engaged in bringing home a load of hay in this way. One of the 370 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. women was sitting on top of the hay, whilst the other pulled the boat, walking along the tow-path in her stocking' feet. Her wooden shoes were on the hay in the boat. We now took a sail- boat and crossed over to the mainland again, disembarking at the village of Volen- dam, which is farther north. This was my first ride on a sail- boat. It is remarkable how the sails can be set so as to propel the boat in the right direction. Here we found the same kind of people as on Marken Island, with the exception that the women do not wear curls. But here the people are nearly all Catholics. The houses are very small, and there are practically no streets, only narrow alleys, in many place wide enough for only one person at a time. Here the people are much poorer than on Marken Island. Some of the dwellings are mere huts or-shanties. We saw an aged man living in a tiny house not over 8 by 12 feet in size. He was given some gifts. At a restaurant here we enjoyed a good dinner. In Volendam, as on Mar- ken Island, the people ail wear wooden shoes. They wear these only outside the houses. As they enter their humble homes they leave them at the door, and wear slippers inside the houses. At Volendam the visitors went aboard three small house -boats on a canal. Our boat contained over thirty persons. About one-half found seats within, where the ceiling was too low to allow any one to stand erect ; the others found room on the top and on the platforms. How was this boat to be propelled ? There was neither steam, electric or horse power, nor sails. Presently two men took hold of a rope and pulled the boat, EDAM. 371 whilst a third with a pole kept it from running aground. Think of these men pulling a boat containing thirty persons ! It was hard work and the progress was quite slow. After awhile the second man dropped out, and left the first to do all the work. This ride reminds one of the peculiar dream of the late Dr. Cuyler, of Brook- lyn. He was the pastor of a large church. One night he dreamt that he and his people were drawing a large coach. He was at the head of the rope. All pulled together and everything went welL By and by the coach pulled harder and harder, and finally it came to a standstill. The good pastor now went back to see what was the trouble, when he found that the members had, one after the other, let go the rope and taken seats inside the coach ! There was this difference in our case — we all entered the coach at once. Edam is also a very old village. One house bears the date 1618. A good deal of cheese is made here. The local church of St. Nicholas was erected in the fourteenth century. The steeple contains twelve small bells which really hang outside the steeple. There is a small museum containing local curiosities. The houses are very old and mostly quite small. At Edam we boarded a trolly car and retured to Amsterdam, greatly pleased with our visit to the quaint villages. On this trip we passed a number of windmills. One of these is large and furnishes the power for a sawmill. One peculiarity of Amsterdam is the numerous leaning houses. In many instances the top extends at least two feet over the base. My first thought was that the foundations had subsided. However, a citizen assured us that the houses were built that way, but he 372 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. could not explain why. At some business houses there is a hoisting apparatus attached to the cornice to lift goods into the upper floors, and this fact may possibly be the explanation of the above peculiar construction. One sees many curious signs in Amsterdam. My knowledge of German enabled me to catch the meaning of many of them. " On verkoop" means "for sale f " Lebensverzekerung'' means "Life Insurance," etc. In the station " Uitgang" means " Exit ;" "Yertrek" means " Train." In the cars " Niet Rooken" means " No Smoking." " Niet openen voor de trein stillstaat" means " Do not open before the train stops." The inscription on a freight car " Draagvermogen" means " Capacity." A place of much interest in Amsterdam is the Panorama of the Siege of Haarlem. This is a very realistic representation of ihe famous siege of that city. At some places buildings are on fire, elsewhere soldiers are cooking their meals, whilst at other places the ground is strewn with dead horses, etc. From a cer- tain tree a man is hanging. The siege of the city of Haarlem, which is ten miles from Amsterdam, took place in 1572-73 and continued seven months. After a most heroic defence, during which women fought by the side of men, the people had to surrender to the cruel Spaniards under Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, and were treated most cruelly by their captors. The commander of the town, the entire gar- rison, all the Protestant ministers and two thousand other citizens were butchered by order of Frederick. Four years later the Spaniards were again expelled from Haarlem. THE HAGUE. 373 The Hague was our next stopping place. It con- tains a number of places of great interest, being the seat of government of Holland. The population is 250,000. This was *' originally the hunting resort of the Counts of Holland.'^ The term '^ Hague" means *' hedge" or *^ enclosure." In Dutch it is "Den Haag." Wilhelmina, the Queen of Holland, resides here. One of the first places we visited was the Groote Kerk or Church of St. James, with a six sided tower 330 feet high and containing a chime of 38 bells* The church was erected in 1299. Some of the windows date from 1547. The carved wooden pulpit was made in 1550, There is a fine large modern organ erected in 188L "Queen Wilhelmina was married in this church to Duke Henry of Mecklenburg-Schwerin on Feb. 7, 1901." She attends this church regularly. The sexton said to our party : " Take seats in this pew," and when we had done so, he added : " Now you are occupying the pew of the queen." The large organ in this church contains 5,000 pipes, 98 stops and three manuals. There is no choir. This large church, like many others in Europe, is not heated in the usual way. Instead, miniature stoves, heated with charcoal, are provided for those who desire them. They are feet- warmers. All the services here are conducted in the Dutch language. There are 1,500 rented and 1,000 free seats in this church, which is capable of holding 3,000 persons. The Reformed people of The Hague seem to be un- der one general management. There are eight Reformed churches, fourteen ministers and an aggregate member- 374 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. ship ot 120,000 souls out of the 236,000 population of the city. In this denomination the communion is cele- brated five times a year. The city has 22 Protestant and 10 Catholic churches. The Nieuwe Kerk (new church) is also an int€rest- ing place. Its erection was commenced in 1649. The well-known brothers DeWitt are buried in this church. In 1672 Cornelius DeWitt was falsely accused of a con- spiracy against the life of the Stadtholder, William III., and imprisoned. He was condemned to banish- ment. His brother, John DeWitt, a prominent states- man, went to the prison to take his brother Cornelius away, but when they were about to leave the prison doot, an infuriated mob, not knowing that Cornelius had been found innocent, and believing that he was about to escape, seized both De Witts and cruelly mur- dered them. After having been almost torn to pieces, they were dragged to a place near the prison and han- ged, heads downward. The exact spot was shown us. Baruch Spinoza, the famous philosopher, a native of Amsterdam, is also buried in this church. He resided at The Hague from 1671 to 1677, when he died. The place of his residence is marked. Nearby is a bronze state of him, erected in 1880. In front of the Royal Palace stands an equestrian statue of William of Orange, the famous liberator of Holland, who was murdered at Delft on July 10, 1684. The Hague can boast of several fine art galleries. We inspected one of them. Many of the paintings are by Rembrandt, the famous Dutch artist. One of the most interesting pictures is that of David playing for Saul. Another famous work is a cattle scene painted THE HAGUE. 375 in 1647. It is said that a New York millionaire once offered $480,000 for one of the Dutch masterpieces. What marvellous, painstaking care some painters be- stow upon their work was brought home to us by means of a magnifying glass, which clearly revealed the sepa- rate hairs of a man's beard in a certain picture. Of course we had to see the " House in the Wood," a royal residence, at the eastern border of the city, erected about 1 645 for Princess Amelia of Solms, con- sort of Prince Frederick of Orange. Among the many paintings is a fine portrait of John L. Motley, the fa- mous American author of the " History of the Dutch Republic." The most beautiful part of the building is the Orange Saloon, which was decorated with mag- nificent mural paintings in 1648. In this room the first International Peace Conference in 1899 was held. It consisted of 120 delegates from 26 nations. The second Peace Conference was held in this city in 1907, consist- ing of 500 delegates. A beautiful Palace of Peace is being erected in The Hague, which is expected to be completed in 1913. Mr. Andrew Carnegie has prom- ised $1,500,000 toward the erection of this magnificent structure. Between the city and the " House in the Wood" is a large park, containing various kinds of deer in large numbers. In the Willems Park stands the " large imposing National Monument, unveiled in 1869, to commemo- rate the restoration of Dutch independence in 1813 and the return of Prince William Frederick of Orange, who afterward became king." The Hague is of special interest to Reformed people of America, because in this city are preserved the 376 RAMBLES IN EUKOPE. records of the transactions engaged in by the Reformed Synods of Holland and the Refjrmed Church of the United States. Tne Reformed people of Holland ex- ercised a fostering care over their Reformed brethren in America from 1731 to 1793, in which latter year our people in this country felt strong enough to organize a government of their own in the form of a synod. A place of peculiar interest in The Hague is the old prison of the thirteenth century, which takes us back to the times of cruel and barbarous practices. Here is a large collection of instruments of torture. Another and much larger collection we saw in the Tower of Torture of the castle at Nuremberg. Among the de- vices on exhibition here are racks, stocks, thumb screws, executioner's axes and swords, an executioner's bench, upon which so many persons were beheaded that a groove was worn into it by the axe ; a pillory for pub- licly exposing prisoners, etc. One form of torture was the continued dropping of water upon the heads of vic- tims. Usually they b'^came crazy in a day and died in three days. In this prison the first Roman Catholic priest who turned Protestant was beheaded. There is a picture on the wall which he is supposed to have painted with his own blood. One of the methods of Spanish torture was to compel prisoners to walk bare- footed over hot irons. If they were not burned they were considered innocent ; if burned, guilty. Another method was to starve people to death in ceils where they could smell the good things in the kitchen. These instruments of torture were first used by the cruel Spaniards during their rule in Holland against political and other offenders. It is stated that the DORT. 377 Spanish Duke of Alva executed 18,000 persons during his reign here. Subsequently the Dutch used the whipping post, the branding iron and the pillory to punish offenders. When 1 told the man in charge that in the American state of Delaware the whipping post is used aganist wife beaters, he replied that he knew all about it, since he resided in the United States a number of years. Rotterdam it an active business city on the river Maas, 15 miles from The Hague. It enjoys the largest foreign trade of all the Holland cities. As formerly, it is still a port from which many thousands of emi- grants from various parts of Europe sail for America. As in Amsterdam, so in Rotterdam, there are numer- ous canals. The church of St. Lawrence was com- menced in 1412, and its unfinished tower was erected in 1449-1560. The Boy man's Museum contains a fine collection of works of art, mostly by Dutch artists. Perhaps the mort famous native of Rotterdam was the scholar and reformer Erasmus. A bronze statue of him was erected in the city in 1622, Erasmus was born in Rotterdam probably in 1467, and died in Basel in 1536. He was a firm opponent of Luther. The population of Rotterdam is about 350,000, one-fourth of which is Catholic. The city of Dort is located ten miles from Rotter- dam and upon an island which was formed by a terrific inundation caused by the overflow of the river Rhine in 1421, when seventy-two villages were destroyed and 100,000 people drowned. The population is about 40,- 000. This town is known in church history because here was held the famous Synod of Dort, whose ses- 25 378 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. sions continued J from November 13, 1618, until May 19, 1619. The synod was called to decide important questions between Arminianism and Calvinism. There were 84 delegates — 36 ministers of Holland, 28 from Germany, Switzerland, England, Scotland, etc., and the rest were Dutch elders. The decision was in favor of the Calvinists. This synod took plenty of time to consider the questions before it, and continued in ses- sion for six months. In our time it is difficult to keep elders a week at synod. The results of this Synod of Dort were far-reaching. Many of the Arminians were banished from Holland, whilst some others lost their lives on account of their teaching. (Dr. Good's " History of the Reformed Church in Germany " contains a most interesting account of this famous synod, as well as a picture of the body, giving a good idea of the somewhat grotesque costumes of the delegates. Those kept their hats on their heads dur- ing the sessions.) We traveled through the southern part of Holland on the tenth day of August. In this section a good deal of grain is raised, which the farmers were cutting at the time. The season here is at least five weeks later than in Pennsylvania. CHAPTER XXni-— FRANCE- Paris the Gay City.— The Guilotine.— The Tuileries.— The Apch of Triumph.— Notre Dame.— Church of the Mad- eleine.— The Louvre, Great Art Gallery.— Napo- leon's Tomb.— The EiflTel Tower.— Monu- ments.— Palace at Versailles. * E reached Paris, the capital of France, from Brussels. The country between these two cities is a rich agricultural region. Farmers were engaged in har- vesting wheat and oats on August 12. Here, as elsewhere in Europe, the sea- son is much later than in Pennsylva- vania. France is more like eastern Pennsylvania than any other country we saw. It is a rolling country. Pakis is, next to London, the largest city in Eu- rope. It is situated on both sides of the river Seine, about 110 miles from its mouth. The population is 2,846,986. In the wall that surrounds the city there are 69 openings— 66 for gates and 9 for railroads, etc. At the gates the tax on food and drink brought into the city is collected, and this is a source of large revenue for Paris. In early times the place was known as Lu- tetia. Originally it consisted of mud huts, inhabited by the Parisii, a Gallic tribe, which was conquered by the Romans. In the year 53 before Christ Lutetia was already an important town. There are still several ruins from this period in existence. One of these con- sists of the foundations of the old Roman amphitheatre, which is supposed to have seated 10,000 spectators at the gladiatorial shows. Lutetia began to be called Paris 380 RAMBLES IN EUROPE, in the fourth century. During the reign of Philippe Auguste, 1180—1223, the city grew rapidly. During this period the nave, choir and chief facade of the great church Notre Dame were erected. The prosperity of Paris was much checked during the French Revolution, but the first Napoleon greatly improved the city. In twelve years he expended over $20,000,000 for this purpose. His downfall once more gave Paris a severe blow, but Napoleon III., his neph- ew, carried out improvements on a large scale, and to him is due much credit for the present magnificence of the city. He constructed wide streets and greatly im- proved the city in all directions. The Germans besieged Paris from Sept. 19, 1870, until Jan. 28, 1871, when it surrendered. Not much damage was done by the siege. But on March 18 the Commune, citizens of Paris, took possession of the city and a reign of terror prevailed for some time, until the French troops under Gen. MacMahon restored order. The Communists now set fire to many public buildings, and the city was in danger of being destroyed. Millions of dollars worth of property was consumed. After the downfall of Na- poleon III. France was made a republic, and has con- tinued such until now. The Parisians are a gay and pleasure-loving people. Many rich folks from all parts of Europe have been attracted to the city, where they live in ease and pleas- ure. Paris is by many regarded as a modern Babylon. Its social life is spoken of as a whirlpool of corruption. Whilst these descriptions may be overdrawn, there is no doubt that a great deal of wickedness prevails in Paris. We approached Paris with peculiar feelings. Going into a large city, whose language we could not speak, PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 381 how were we likely to fare ? It is only natural to bor- row trouble. So here. At the railroad station we found an enormous crowd of people. We experienced some inconvenience, because our porter could speak no more English than we could speak French. However we soon reached the St. Petersburg hotel, where clerks and waiters use both languages named. Our party spent a number of days in Paris and saw many places of interest which are usually visited by tourists. There are many magnificent, wide avenues in this great city. As a whole Paris is no doubt the most beautiful city in the world. Perhaps the largest of the many open squares is the Place de la Concorde, between the Champs- Ely sees and the Garden of the Tuileries. This is a place of great historic interest. In 1792 the place was called Place de la Revolution, which was certainly an appropriate name, for here was erected in that year the " guillotine," a machine for beheading people quickly and scientifi- cally. The name of this device is derived from its in- ventor, Joseph I. Guillotin. In this square the bloody work of the French Revolution was commenced. Louis XYI., king of France, was beheaded on Jan. 21, 1793. Subsequently there were executed at this spot Marie Antoinette, the queen of King Louis XYI. ; the Duke of Orleans, Danton, Madame Elizabeth, sister of the king named, Robespiere, Dumas, and many others. Between Jan. 21, 1793, and May 3, 1796, about 2800 persons were here beheaded with the guillotine. On one day 82 members of the Commune were executed. Dan- ton and Robespiere had caused the death at this place of hundreds of persons, and they finally met the same 382 RAMBLES IN EUKOPE. fate. There is probably no place in Europe where so many prominent persons were executed as at this spot. Nearby stands a famous Egyptian obelisk, which formerly stood in front of a gateway to the great temple at Thebes in Upper Egypt, and dates from the reign of Rameses II., the Pharaoh whoj oppressed the children of Israel. It was presented to the French King Louis Philippe in 1831 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt. The shaft is of reddish granite, 76 feet high and weighs 240 tons. On the four sides inscriptions narrate the deeds of Rameses II. On the pedestal it is stated that the monument was shipped from Egypt in 1831 and erected at Paris in 1836. This obelisk is six feet higher than the one in London, mentioned on page 79. There are two beautiful fountains aside of the obe- lisk, each consisting " of a round basin, 53 feet in diam- eter, above which rise two-smaller basins, surmounted by a spout, from which a jet of water rises to a height of 28 feet.'* Nearby is a fine equestrian statue of Gen. Lafayette. This is the gift of the children of the Uni- ted States. Gen. Lafayette served in the American army during the Revolution, and rendered our country valuable services. Around the square are eight large stone figures sym- bolizing the principal towns of France. The one rep- resenting Strassburg is constantly hung with emblems of mourning, because of the loss of the province of Al- sace to Germany in 1871. This shows how seriously the French took this great loss. On the east side of the great square formerly stood the beautiful Palace of the Tuileries, which was burned by the Commune in 1871. This palace, founded by THE TiriLERIES. 383 Catherine de Medicis, widow of Henri II., was begun in 1664, beyond the city walls of that period. It de- rived its name from tile- kilns (tuileries) that originally occupied its site. " Before the Revolution it was only occasionally occupied by the French sovereigns ; but it was the habitual residence of Napoleon I., Louis XVIII., Charles X., Louis Philippe, and Napoleon III." Louis XVI. at first lived at Versailles, but on October 6, 1789, a large mob attacked his palace and compelled the king and his family to take up their resi- dence in Paris, " and in 1791 he was again forcibly in- stalled here after the arrest of his flight at Varennes." On June 20, 1792, a mob of 30,000 persons attacked the Tuileries, and on the following tenth day of August a mob slaughtered the guard and looted the palace. The Communists, who ruled a short time in Paris, on May 20, 1871, placed barrels of gunpowder, etc., into differ- ent rooms and then set the palace on fire at several places, and the magnificent structure was almost entirely ruined. The City Hail shared the same fate. The site of the former palace is now occupied by the Garden of the Tuileries. From the Place de la Concorde the wide and mag- nificent avenue Champs -Ely sees leads northwestward to the great Arch of Triumph. This is said to be the lar- gest triumphal arch in existence, and can be seen far and wide from the surrounding country. Its erection was commenced by Napoleon I. in 1805-6 and finished by Louis Philippe in 1836. The whole structure is 162 feet in height, 147 feet in width and 73 feet in depth. There are reliefs and figures, which commemo- rate French victories at various times. 273 steps lead 384 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. to a platform on the arch, from which a beautiful view over the great city is afforded. On June 1, 1885, the corpse of Victor Hugo, before it was taken to its final resting place in the Pantheon, was laid in state under the arch. Not far off" stands Victor Hugo's monu- ment. The arch is located in a very large circular space, from which twelve streets radiate. A.t this place a great transformation of the city took place under Na- poleon III. Hundreds of buildings were demolished and straight streets opened. It is believed that one object was to prevent the barricading of streets in case of insurrection. From the circle artillery could com- mand the numerous streets in all directions for long distances. Paris! of course has many churches, mostly Cath- olic. One of the most interesting of these is the cathe- dralfof Notre Dame, which is located upon an island in the t river Seine. It is a large and massive structure. Founded in 1163, the cathedral stands where there was once a church of the fourth century. Though dedicated in 1182, it was not entirely completed until the thir- teenth century. The front is very elaborate and mas- sive, and ornamented with a profusion of sculpture. One group represents the Last Judgment. Among the statues are " 28 kings of Israel and Judah, who were also reputed to be kings of France. These were de- stroyed during the Revolution, but re- executed in the 19th century." Above these in the centre " rises a statue of the Virgin Mary, with two angels bearing lights, to the right and left of which are figures of Ad- am and Eve." The cathedral has two massive towers, NOTRE DAME. 385 but the intended steeples for them were never erected. 397 steps lead up to the top of the northern tower. In the southern tower hangs one of the largest bells in ex- istence. It weighs 12 J tons ; its clapper alone weighs nearly half a ton. Another bell here, not in use, was brought from Sebastopol. The interior of the Notre Dame cathedral is also grand. It is 417 feet long and 156 feet wide, and its high vaulted roof is supported by 75 massive pillars. The pulpit is " a masterpiece of modern wood- carving." The treasury of the church contains a collection of relics, including the Crown of Thorns, a nail from the Cross and piece of the Cross. The faithful believe these to be genuine, but we are at liberty to think what we please. Here are also the coronation robes of Napoleon I., and the blood-stained clothes of the Archbishop Darboy and two priests who were mur- dered by the Communists in 1871. Near the south portal in the church are two black marble slabs con- taining the names of 75 victims of the Communists, including the three named above. The cathedral suffered greatly during the French Revolution. In 1793 the church " was converted into a * Temple of Reason,' the sculptures were mutilated, and the statue of the Virgin Mary replaced by one of Liberty." The purpose of the Revolutionists was to abolish all religion. Disgraceful scenes are said to have been enacted in this house of worship, so that the church was closed in the following year. In 1795 the Catholics reopened it, and in 1845 it was restored to its former condition. Another noteworthy church is the Madeleine, or Church of St. Mary Magdalene. This is a magnificent 386 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. modern building. It was commenced in 1806 hy Napoleon I., who ** intended it as a Temple of Glory/' and was completed in 1842. It is 364 feet long, 141 feet wide and 100 feet high. The build- ing is surrounded by a row of columns, 18 on each side lengthwise, and a number in front and behind. The whole presents an imposing appearance. One pecu- liarity of the church is the fact that it has no side win- dows ; instead there are three circular roof-windows through which light is admitted. There can be practi- cally no ventilation. We have seen two other build- ings of similar construction in this respect — the Bank of England and the Pantheon in Rome, the latter hav- ing but one window, and that in the dome. Illustra- tions of the Ten Commandments embellish the huge bronze front doors of the church. The interior of the Madeleine is rather dark and lacks cheerfulness. On the high altar is a marble group " representing Mary Magdalene being borne into Paradise by two angels.'' Among the paintings in the church is one of ^' Napoleon receiving the im- perial crown from the hands of Pope Pius VII." There are also a number of French Protestant churches. The larger number of these are Reformed ; then follow the Lutherans. Perhaps the most attractive, at least the most fre- quented, of the public institutions in Paris is the Louvre (pronounced Loove) Museum and Art Gallery, which is probably the largest in the world. It is simply immense. We spent considerable portions of two days in it. The immense building was erected in parts dur- ing a number of centuries. Originally it was used as THE LOUVRE. 387 a royal palace. Its name is believed to have been de- rived from " an ancient rendezvous of wolf hunters" and was then called Louverie. It is believed that Philippe Auguste, who reigned from 1180 to 1223, erected the first castle here. Various monarchs erected parts of the great structure. In 1661 a part of it was destroyed by fire. In the course of time the rulers of France preferred the Versailles and the Tuileries pal- aces as places of residence, and the Louvre was by and by entirely devoted to art. Napoleon I. in 1805 made an earnest effort to re- store and complete the building. He directed the erec- tion of a gallery to connect the Louvre with the Tuil- eries. But before the completion of the work Napoleon was deposed, and the work rested. In 1848 Napoleon III. undertook to finish the undertaking, which was accomplished in 1868. The several buildings as a whole constitute the largest institution of its kind in the world, covering about forty- five acres of ground, or three times as much as the Vatican at Rome. There are so many rooms that it is said to take a person two hours to walk through them all without stopping. Anything like a description of the thousands of paintings, specimens of sculpture and relics is impos- sible. Already in 1710 the number of paintings was 2,400. Since then the number has been greatly in- creased. Many art treasures were brought to Paris by the French armies as trophies of war. Many of the ob- jects in the Egytian Museum date back thousands of years before the birth of Christ. All the noted artists are represented in this vast gallery. One of the most famous paintings is a por- 388 RAMBLES LN' EUROPE. trait of Mona Lisa, wife of Fr. del Giocondo, of Flor- ence, Italy. THs is by the Italian artist Leonardo da Vinci, who spent four years on this one work, and then stopped without finishing it. There are many pictures of the Madonna, the Crucifixion, Entombment of Jesus, etc. The collection of drawings includes about 50,000 specimens. Some of the rooms are of great historic interest. One of these belonged to the apartments of Catherine de Medicis, mother of Charles IX., King of France. Here on August 19, 1572, the Princess Margaret of Valois, sister of Charles IX., was married to Henri, the young Protestant King of Xavarre. Admiral Col- igny and many other Huguenot leaders were present. Five days later, on the eve of St. BartholomeVs Day, August 23, Charles IX., at the instigation of his mother, Catherine de Medicis, issued the order for the massacre of the Huguenots and the arrest of Henri, who afterward, as Henri TV., became King of France. In 1610 this king was assassinated and his body lay in state here. The Hotel-de-Ville (aty Hall) is a fine building, frontiug on a large open square along the river Seine. In this square, called Place de 1' Hotel-de-Ville, public executions took place from 1310 to 1832. " In 1572, after the massacre of St. Bartholomew, Catherine de Medicis caused the Huguenot chiefs Briquemont and Cavagnes to be hung lq this Place amid the jeers of an enrapred mob; and in 1574 she ordered the Comte Montgomery, captain of the Scottish guard, to be exe- cuted here for having accidentally caused the death of her husband, Henri II., at a tournament. On this napoleon's tomb. 389 spot, too, Eleonore Galigai, foster sister of Marie de Medicis, convicted of sorcery, was beheaded and after- ward burnt in 1617." Many other persons, some of high standing, were put to death in this Place. The old City Hall was commenced in 1533. It has always been the headquarters of the city govern- ment. From its steps on Feb. 24, 1848, Louis Blanc proclaimed the republic. In May, 1871, the Com- mune were in possession of the building. They placed " heaps of combustibles inside the building, and when forced to retire thither after the fearful struggle on the 24th of May in the Place de PHotel-de- Yille, they set fire to them, regardless of the fact that 600 of their party were still within its precincts. Not one escaped, and the entire building perished in the flames." The new or present building was erected in 1876-84. The Hotel des Invalids (Soldiers' Home) is a place of great interest, as it contains the tomb of Napoleon I. It is the oldest institution of its kind, having been founded by Louis XIV., and erected in 1670-75. The Soldiers' Home " covers an area of about 30 acres and was intended to accommodate 7,000 inmates, but there are now only about 50, as only soldiers absolutely inca- pacitated for work are now admitted. Parts of the building have been devoted to other purposes." The Military Museum in it contains some 10,000 specimens of weapons and armor of all kinds, both ancient and modern. The principal attraction, the Tomb of Napoleon I., which was erected in 1843-53, is in this Dome. " It consists of an open circular crypt 20 ft. in depth and 36 feet in diameter. In the middle is the sarcophagus 390 RAMBLES EST EUJROPE. of the emperor, who was born in 1769, and died at St. Helena in 1821. His remains were brought to Paris in 1840." His coffin was hewn out of a solid piece of Siberian porphyry. The tomb is an elaborate affair. In a general way it resembles the tomb of Gen. Grant in New York a good deal, but is far grander. It is a beautiful monument. Here lie the remains of a great and cruel leader, whose ambition caused the death of several hundred thousand soldiers, and caused untold sorrow and misery. The question is, how does this man look at his life from his present point of view ? He was a great man, but in a bad sense. There are milUons of people, who, taken all in all, were greater than he, because they were good at heart, although the world never idolized them. There are two chapels in the building, one of which contains the coffins of Joseph Bonaparte, King of Spain, and of Jerome Bonaparte, King of Westphalia. In the building are also the tombs of Duroc and Bertrand, the Emperor's faithful friends ; the latter even shared his captivity at St. Helena. The famous Eiffel Tower is the highest structure in the world, and can be seen from all parts of Paris. It was erected by Mr. Eiffel in 1887-89. This enormous structure is 984 feet high, or nearly twice the height of the Washington Monument. The whole rests upon four great uprights which stand in an inclined position. There are three elevators, one above the other, to con- vey visitors to the top. Only two of our party ven- tured to make the ascent, but these felt amply repaid bv the wonderful view from the high place. The Eiffel Tower is now a station of the wireless telegraph system. VENDOME COLUMN. 391 Monday, August 16, was a general holiday in Paris. All j)laces of business were closed, except the saloons. These are open every day in the year. The day was observed as the Feast of the Assumption, one of the numerous holy days set apart by the Roman Church. The Parisians observed the day in pleasure and drink- ing. Most of them evidently care little or nothing for real religion. East of the Garden of the Tuileries is the Elysee Palace, now occupied by the President of the French Bepublic. It is surrounded by a large park, which is entirely enclosed. The President appears to live rather secluded. The Opera House, conspicuously located at the head of a five avenue, is the largest theatre in the world. Its erection was commenced in 1861 and fin- ished in 1874. Although a very large building, there are only 2,156 seats. The ground and building cost nearly ten million dollars. This place of amusement is patronized largely by the rich and fashionable. Among the numerous monuments in the city is the Vendome Column, towering 142 feet in the centre of a large square, where originally stood an equestrian statue of Louis XIV., which, however, gave way during the Ee volution to a Statue of Liberty. In 1806 the Sen- ate decided to erect the present column in honor of Napoleon I. It is an imitation of the Column of Tra- jan at Rome, but "is constructed of masonry encrusted with plates of bronze forming a spiral band nearly 900 feet in length, on which are represented memorable scenes from the campaign of 1805.'' Many of the fig- ures are portraits. "The metal was obtained by melt- 392 RAMBLES IN EUROPE. ing down 1,200 Russian and Austrian cannon. At the top is a statue of Napoleon I. in his imperial robes." There are numerous other monuments in various parts of Paris, but of these we shall mention only those erected in memory of the following persons : Charlemagne, one of the early kings of France ; Ben- jamin Franklin, the American statesman ; Joan of Arc, the girl of Orleans, who in 1429 led the French army to victory against the English ; Gen. Lafayette, who aided the Americans in gaining their independence from England ; Napoleon I., Emperor of the French ; Shakespeare, the English dramatist ; Victor Hugo, the poet ; Washington, the American patriot. We spent one afternoon in visiting the Royal Palace at Versailles, eleven miles southwest of Paris. The trip, made by automobile, was delightful in every way. This palace was the famous residence of Louis XIV. The King took up his residence here on May 6, 1682. The palace had been erected in sections at various times, but was still too small ; therefore another wing was added. It has been estimated that the cost of the great palace was one hundred million dollars, and the annual cost of maintenance about one-half million dollars. It is no longer occupied, but still it costs over $100,000 a year to maintain it. The palace had room for 10,000 inmates. It is 3,175 feet long and has 375 windows. The court of Louis XIV. consisted of 5,000 persons. This ruler and his successors resided here in great splendor until 1789, when a mob compelled Louis XVI. to take up his residence at the Tuileries in Paris. Since that time the palace at Versailles has not been used as a royal PALACE AT VEKSAILLES. S93 residence. In this palace was signed the treaty of peace between England and the United States in 1783, after the Revolutionary War. A guide conducted us through the immense estab- lishment until both eyes and limbs were weary. The largest and most gorgeously decorated room is the so- called " Galerie des Glaces/' which is 235 feet long and 35 feet wide. There are 17 large windows and opposite these the same number of bevelled mirrors. In this beautiful room King William of Prussia was proclaimed Emperor of Germany on Jan. 18, 1871, after the French armies had been defeated. The Prussian monarch lived in this palace during the siege of Paris. During the siege of Paris, from September, 1870, until January 28, 1871, Versailles was the headquarters of the German army. One of the most interesting rooms is the bed- chamber of Louis XIV., and the bed in which he died on Sept. 1, 1715, after ruling 72 years. The room is substantially the same as he left it. Another room contains the writing table of the great king. In one of the rooms the king had the custom of washing the feet of thirteen poor children on Maundy Thursday in the presence of the clergy. Louis XIV. turned fourteen rooms into one and called it the Gallery of Battles. The two lateral walls are decorated with fine paintings of celebrated battles, including among others the siege of Yorktown. The palace, as a matter of course, abounds in paintings, besides numerous tapestries. Some of the latter are made of silk and gold. Among the portraits is that 26 394 EAMBLES IX EUROPE. of Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon I'll., who is still Kving in England at the age of 83 years. The royal stables in the time of Louis XIV. con- tained 2,500 horses for the use of his large court. Near the palace are two ** Trianon " — villas used bv the Queens of France. These are beautiful little palaces, finely furnished and decorated. In the Large Trianon is an oak table, the top of which is a solid piece of wood, over nine feet in diameter. In another room Marshal Bazaine was tried and found guilty of treason in 1873, after the war with Grermany. He was sentenced to 20 years' imprisonment, but escaped and fled to Spain, where he died. Bazaine surrendered the French army at Metz on October 27, 1870. Three marshals, 6,000 officers and 173,000 soldiers became prisoners of the Germans. Another room contains a Roman mosaic table presented by Pope Pius VII. to Xapoleon I. The Smaller Trianon was a favorite rest- ing place for Queen Marie Antoinette. Empress Marie Louise also sojourned here occasionally. The bedroom of the former is preserved. In connection with these places is a small museum, in which a number of state carriages are preserved. Here is the wedding carriage of Louis XVI. and Ma- rie Louise ; also the coronation carriage of Napoleon L, for six horses. Another carriage said to weigh seven tons and to have cost $200,000, was drawn by eight horses. All of these vehicles are richly embellished with gold. The harness is also plated with gold and silver. The town of Versailles, which has a population of over 50,000, is regularly laid out and contains many FOOD FOR PARIS. 395 fine residences. It is surrounded hj parks, which are said to have an area of 12,000] acres. It takes an enormous quantity'of^food to feed the population of a city like Paris. I ; have i before me a report which states that the city*consumes;;[ever7 year about 252,000 tons of meat (including Jabout 60,000 tons of horeflesh and 1,400 tons of meat obtained from mules and donkeys), 20,000 Itons ;of poultry, 23,000 tons of fish, 9,000 tons of oysters, 18,000 tons of vege- tables, 19,000 tons of fruit, 17,000 tons of Jcheese, 13,- 000 tons of butter, 21,000 tons of eggs, etc. CHAPTER XXIV.— HOMEWARD* E concluded our tour of Europe at Paris* We left that city by special train for Cherbourg, France, where we embarked on the steamer "Teutonic" for New York. We were grateful that our tour was not marred by illness or accident to either one of our party. There was a large crowd of tourists at the station in Paris and each one was eager to get on the special train. Missing that train would have meant missing the steamer. The majority of the tourists were ladies, and there seemed to be no end to their baggage— trunks, boxes, valises, etc. One lady had a round box about three feet in diameter. We concluded that it contained a new hat after the latest Paris fashion. Our homeward voyage was without special events. The only unpleasant experience on the part of the writer was an attack of sea sickness, which lasted sev- eral days. Fully one-fourth of the passengers were more or less affected by it. The only satisfaction we had from the affliction was the knowledge what sea- sickness is. It is nothing to be desired. Besides a few ships and some birds we saw the spouting of two whales in the distance. This was some- thing new and we watched the scene as long as possible. The sea is a great world in itself, covering three times as much of the earth's surface as the land. It is difficult to appreciate its vastness. The depth of the sea varies greatly. At many places the water is so HOMEWARD. 397 shallow that ships are wrecked, whilst elsewhere it is enormously deep. The deepest place so far discovered is near the island of Guam in the Ladrone Group, which belongs to the United States, where the water is almost six miles deep, sufficient to submerge the highest mountain in the world. As a rule the sea is cold. It has been calculated that 92 per cent, of the water has a temperature of less than 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but the Red Sea has the warmest water found anywhere — 70 degrees. Everybody knows that sea- water is salty. In the Atlantic Ocean there are 81 pounds of salt in a ton of water, and in the Pacific Ocean 79, whilst in the Dead Sea there are 187. The first ocean steamship was the " Savannah," launched at Corlear's Hook, N. Y., in 1819. She was 99 feet long and had a displacement of 300 tons. Her first trip, from Savannah to Liverpool, occupied 35 days. The most recently launched ocean steamship, the " Olympic," is 882 feet long and of 45,000 tons ca- pacity. She can carry 5,600 persons. It is estimated that the engines of a first-class modern steamship de- velops as much power as 100,000 ancient oarsmen could produce. An ocean trip afibrds much time for meditation. One is apt to think of another voyage^ — the voyage of life on the sea of time. Occasionally the voyage seems long and tiresome. Like the fog on the sea, our spiritual outlook is sometimes beclouded, but God's spirit dissipates the clouds and brings forth spiritual sunshine. All on our ship had a definite destination before them. Probably all had dear friends awaiting their home-coming. How about life's voyage ? Some 398 RAMBLES IN ETJROPE. seem to have no fixed destination. They are like drift- wood. To them it matters not where they will finally land, in heaven or perdition. How strange ! By and by the last day of life's voyage will come. The ship is nearing the haven of eternal joy and peace, for which people have been longing. They are eager to disembark. The ship is entering the harbor at sun- set and what a glorious sunset ! The horizon is radiant with glory. It is the prophecy of the rising of that Sun in the eternal morning which has healing in its wings, and which will never set. Our sainted friends on the shining shore are awaiting us. We can almost hear their exclamations of joy, as they see the blood- stained banner waving above the ship. *' Land, ho !" the passengers cry. But how about those who are aliens and strangers to grace ? Reader, is your citizenship in heaven ? Our good ship brought us safely to New York Bay late in the evening. As we passed along the southern shore of Long Island, the hundreds of electric lights at Rockaway Beach, Coney Island and other places presented a fine sight. We reached the Quarantine Station about midnight and remained there until the following morning, when the health officer boarded our ship. Fortunately no one on board was sick, so that our ship could pioceed to its dock in the city. After disembarking, our baggage was examined by the U. S. customs officers. After this had been done we pro- ceeded on our way rejoicing. We were once more in our native country, and in a few hours we were in our homes and in the midst of our loved ones. We had ended a most enjoyable trip and felt as perhaps never before that there is no place like home. HOMEWARD. 399 The following lines were composed by Eev. John F. Moyer, the poet of o"ur party, in anticipation of our returning home : SAILING HOME. Itong we have wandered from land to land. And through many delights we have come ; But the ship has slipped the silver strand, And we have set sail for home. The Captain is on the bridge apart, The Pilot is at the wheel, And fast and strong the fiery heart Of the ship pounds on the keel. The billows are chasing on every side, And the ship is cutting the foam ; And merrily over the ocean's tide. We are speeding toward home. May peace and security sweetly call, As over the waves we roam, And may no frowning ills befall, As we go nearing home. And when the fairest land we see, Under the great blue dome, May ours the rich experience be, The best is getting home. And thus we sail life's mystic sea, And the storms and the breakers roar ; May Christ our faithful Pilot be, Till we reach the farther shore. And when our sainted friends we greet, And the crown and the rest have come ; May all our hearts the song repeat, The best is getting home. J^^nttBglttanta (S^rmati A Collection of Pennsylvania German Productions in Poetry and Prose* EDITED BY DANIEL MILLER, Author of ' 'History of Reformed Church in Reading, ' ' ' 'Karly History of Reformed Church," "Rambles in Europe," Ktc. TWO VOLUMES. Volume I. contains 45 poems by 12 authors, including Dr. H. Harbaugh, Dr. C. Z. Weiser, Dr. Geo. Mays, Dr. Bli Kel- ler, Dr. F. R. Brunner, H. ly. Fisher, Rev. John Vogt, Dr. T. J. B. Rhoads, Dr. I. n. Graeff, P. F. Bisenbrown, Rev. J. S. Dubbs and Prof. D. B. Brunner; and 58 articles in prose. Vol- ume II. contains a vocabulary of 1,200 words in Bnglish trans- lated into Pennsylvania German and German; 39 poems by some 25 authors, including Rev. B. Rondthaler, Dr. H. Har- baugh, Conrad Weiser, Rev. Isaac S. Stahr, Dr. Bli Keller, Dr. F. R. Brunner, Rev. D. B. Shuey, Dr. B. Grumbine, Dr. T. J. B. Rhoads, Mr. C. G. Blatt, Miss R. Bahn, Dr. Geo. Mays, Rev. Robert lyisberger, I^ee h. Grumbine, Prof. D. B. Brunner, Rev. W. T. Gerhard, B. M. Bshelman, Dr. J. h. Mengel, etc. ; a collection of 140 Pennsylvania German Prov- erbs, biographical sketches and portraits of the ten Pennsylva- nia German Governors of Pennsylvania, and 23 articles in the dialect by Daniel Miller, besides 8 illustrations. Volume I. contains 296 pages. Volume II. contains 265 pages. Price of each volume, one dollar, postpaid. Address, DANIEL MIUER, Pnblisher, READINQ, PA. Y 23 »^«» One copy del. to Cat. Div. MAY 23 ^tf,l '■•'f LIBRARY OF CONGRESS] 020 657 335