> :i>^3?*: W^-M^ 0:3^ ■J -*>^ ^mm iM^ ^^^^^:^ - ' •- --^^^ '■ 'Jir=^ i^^ma^^ 3^^ m Iti^l 1/fjjn FORCE COLLECTION. - — ~J y.'* :r.^7 UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. ^'V'^vr.isf;F^'>'W*r;j^fi ^'^<%,'^ %>'^'%.'^^'%>^-^'^-^;i3| ^iM-^i a5A'/*^AQri^.''x^J;^#:^' :iMi3m^^^ i ...-::. ^•^■^.A mm'Smf m "~m\\^l I mw ^^^mM^m Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2011 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/cruiseinwlialeboaOOrliod ;« m t nm i'y<^ 'iWmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmi^immmmmammmima^mmmmmammmmm^i^mmmmmmmmmimimmmmammmmmimmmmmimm^^i^mmmmmimi^m r^ ADVENTURES BY SEA AND LAND : 1 CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT, « DURING A YEAR IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH AMERICA. JAME.S A. RHODES NEW- YORK: NEW-YORK PUBLISHING COMPANY, 80^ NASSAU-STREET. (in the rear.) 1848. dee 25 Cents. CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT, A PARTY OF FUGITIVES: REMINISCENCES AND ADVENTURES DURING A YEAK IN THE ^ / PACIFIC OCEAN /' THE INTERIOE OF SOUTH AMERICA. BT JAMES A . RHODES. NEW-YORK : NEW-YORK PUBLISHING COMPANY, 80>^ NASSAU-STREET. (in the rkar.) 1848. .-'^ -f ■'• Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1848, by THEODORE FOSTER, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New-York. JOHN R. M'GOWN, printer, 106j FULTON-STREET. PREFACE. Impelled by a boyish fancy, a few years ago I embarked on a voyage to the Pacific Ocean,- and while there met with many adventures, and visited nearly every port upon the western coast of South America, residing in some of them for several weeks at a time. Recent circumstances have induced me to put my recollections of that period into the present form, trusting that they will be found more or less interesting to all classes of people, the man of refinement, the rough sailor, those desirous of information, or the lovers of the marvellous. In conclusion : I hope that whatever errors may be noticed will be looked upon with a lenient eye, as the work has been hastily written, and under many disadvantages. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Good Reason for Deserting — Truth of the Narrative — Outward Bound Voyage — Repent Leaving Home — Touch at Fayal — Plans for Leaving there — Pride Prevents — An Irish- man's Mode of Escaping^Cruising in the Pacific for Whales — Arrive at Tombez — Bright Anticipations — Disappointments — Liberty Ashore — Amusements — Plans for Deserting the Ship ■ 9 CHAPTER IL Return Punctually Aboard — Sketches of Individuals herein Concerned — Their Compact — Preparations for an Escape — Honest Intentions — Parting Scenes — Get Safely Off- Tempestuous Night — Fine Morning and out of Sight of Land — Merry Breakfast — Future Plans — Organize and Commence our Voyage — Hot Weather — Land Ahead- Heave to for the Night 14 CHAPTER III. Tempestuous Weather — Exposed Quarters at Night — An Alarm — Perilous Situation — Narrow Escape — A Short Repose — Resume our Course — Puna — Island of Puna — Pull Around It — Another Night in the Boat — Varied Exposure — Scarcity of VVater — Forlorn Appearance — Approach the Land — Delightful Country — Hospitable Reception — Jolly Times — Country People, Manners, Customs, &c. — Rainy and Dry Seasons — Country Houses — Scarcity of Water — Filthy Pool 19 CHAPTER IV. The Party Arrested and Taken Inland — The Cheese — Disinterestedness — Boat Leaves the Village — Humble a Puppy — A Voyage by Night — Another Village — The Meeting — Jolly Times — Ridiculous Costume — Put to Sea Again — Uncertainties — Wanderings on the Coast — Fine Scenery — Alligators — Their Habits — Dangers — Fishing Population — A Bonky — Barter Trades — Balsas or Catamarans 27 CHAPTER V. Approach the River — Fright of a Bonky — Plenty of Fresh Water — Guard Boats — Sum- mons — Ascend the River— Gloomy Scenes — A Light — Go Ashore — Mosquito Story — The City in Sight — Beautiful Sight — Holiday Crowds — Our Reception — ^True State- ment — Bitter Disappointment — Arrested — Resistance — Its Results — Irons — Plan for Escape — Commence our Return to the Ship — Row in the Boat 33 CHAPTER VL Saw off our Irons at Night — Dismay of the Guard — Beautiful Scenery — Stop at Puna — Plan for Liberty — The Attack — Free Again — Treatment of our Guard — Allen's Pitiful Story — His Duplicity — Generosity of the Men — Future Plans — Scarcity of Provisions — ^Pleasant Stopping Place — Singular Appearances — Absence of the Inhabitants. . 39 CHAPTER VII. No Women, etc.-:-Land Pirates — New Arrival — Fighting — Peril of Allen — Another As- sault — Punish the Assailants — Depart — Pass the Night in the Boat — Land at El Morto — Sea Fowl — Quantities of Eggs — Preparations for a Delicious Meal — A Slight Disap- pointment — Tender Gull — Leave for Tombez — Allen's Treachery — Night Perils — Allen's Rascality and Departure — Land at Tombez 45 8 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. PAO£. Land at Tombez — Awful Disappointment — Flight— Wreck— Press of Sail— Great Speed — Reach Puna — Watch " on Deck " — Desertion of Clifford — His Baggage — Famished Condition — A SaU — Hospitality — Another Flight and Escape — A Night in the Boat- Consultation — Future Plans — Village of Puna — Oysters 50 CHAPTER IX. Enter Guayaquil River — English Barque— Repair the Boat— Hard Night's Work — Alli- gator Dangers — Pass the City Unperceived — Go into the Interior — Night in the Boat — Description of Scenery — Fruits — Monkeys — Pigs — Parrots, etc. — Decide to Return — Various Plans — Enter the City — Surprise — Put in Irons 5G CHAPTER X. Description of the Navy of Ecuador — Provisional Allowance — Fleas, Cockroaches, &c. — Their Manners and Customs — Voracity — Anecdotes — Bug Tactics of a Man of War — Pilfering — Go to the City — Soldiers Barracks — Black Hole — Horrible Situation — Amusements — Removal to the Naval Steamer ; 61 CHAPTER XL Description of the Steamer — Disturbance — Slow Work — A Chase at Night — Leisure Time — Bathing — Bad Health — Sufferings of Foreigners from Mosquitoes — Want of Sleep — Thunder Storms — Night Scenes — Good News — Set at Liberty — First Sensations — American Consul — His Liberality — Life Ashore — Description of Guayaquil — Manners and Customs of the People, etc Qf CHAPTER XIL Description of Guayaquil — Inhabitants — Complexion — No Prejudice — Trade — Wholesale and Retail — Handsome Stores — Mechanic Arts — National Incapacity — Stupid Prefer- ences — Saw Mills — Immigration of Mechanics, &c.. Encouraged — Inducements — Enterpising Yankee — Roman Catholic Religion — Immorality of the Priests of that Spiritual Religion — Indolence and Improvidence — Two Meals a Day — The Siesta — Amusements — Refreshments — Wines, &c. — Bull Fight — Music — Dislike of Foreigners — Reason for It — Jackasses — ^Vehicles — My Own Experience 73 CHAPTER XHL Longings for Home — Treachery — Whalers — Pacific Steam Navigation Company — Steam ships "Peru" and "Chili" — Anxiety — Disappointment — Try Again — Succeed — Boatswain — English Stokers — Hospitality — Build, Officers, Crew, &c., of the Steamer — Duties — "Dingy Work" — Steward — Go Ashore — Sailors' Generosity — Cogitations ' and Conclusions — Ship for Three Months — i\.tmospheric Phenomena — Extraordinary Exploit. 79 - CHAPTER XIV. Description — Contrasts in Climate — In Sceaery — In Countries — In Natural Productions — ^^In People — In Price of Fruits — In Sailing to Windward — In Beef Cattle — Splendid Beef^ — Yankee Vegetables — Good Living — " Copper John" — Standing Joke — Hydro- pathy — Passengers — Ludicrous Stupidity — Content — Continued — Slaves — Anchor in Guayaquil — Jolly Times — Pine Apples — Gold and Silver — Animals — Monkey Shines — Aguadiente — Landing at Pisco 88 CHAPTER XV. Singular Boats — Fishermen — Abundance of Fish — Numbers of Birds — Seals — Police Regulations and Customs, etc. — " Scrape," in Valparaiso — Old Tom — Arrested — Stock Transactions — Lambayeque — Northers — Stormy Scene — Perilous Adventures — Go Ashore — Talcahuana • . 95 CHAPTER XVI. General Remarks — Theories, &c. — Natural Influences — First Settlers — Creoles — Differ- ences in Bodily Strength — Disposition, &c. — Foreign Adventurers — Hospitality — Own Experience — Beach Combers — Singular Manners and Customs — Flogging — Tlie Com- modore — Wine — Close. ..-..,.,,.. 102 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. CHAPTER I. Good Reason for Deserting — Truth of the Narrative — Outward Bound Voyage — Repent Leaving Home — Touch at Fayal — Plans for Leaving there — Pride Prevents — An Irishman's Mode of Escaping — Cruising in the Pacific for Whales — Arrive at Tombez — Bright Anticipa- tions — Disappointments — liberty Ashore — Amusements — Plans for Deserting the Ship. It is generally well known that out of the crews of whaling vessels, few ever return in the ships on board of which they departed ; and for this result there are many and abundant reasons, which exculpate the sailor entirely from blame. Very many arise from the great difference between the freedom and enjoyment which are incidental, in a greater or less degree, to the life of every one in our happy land of Liberty, and the restraints, hardships, priva- tions, and irksomeness of life at sea, where neither new faces, or scarcely land, is seen for many months at a time. This difference is felt in its fullest extent, by the crews of whalers, composed as they are, almost entirely of green-horns, seasoned with merely a sufficient number of old salts to teach them " the ropes ;" and it is but natural for their disgust at the generalities of a seafaring life, to be accompanied by a strong aversion to the officers and discipline of the ship aboard of which they are first experienced ; where, the discipline and hardships being itcw, and sometimes aggravated by home- sickness, they are most severely felt, thereby causing them to consider their ship and officers the worst of all others, and to seek relief by a change of scene. Consider, too, the consequences of confining some twenty or thirty men, of all ages, nations, colors, characters, and dispositions, together, for months and years at a time, in a narrow space, engaged in one monotonous and inexpressibly irksome round of duties, varied only by an occasional period of excitement when whales are killed, again to relapse into weary lisl- lessness. Here is no room for seclusion ; likes and dislikes, friendships and enmities must be formed, and wo to the unhappy wretch whose peculiarities make him the scapegoat of such a set, or to those who may have excited %he hatred of officers who delight to tyrannise over and " haze " their victims. While at sea such persons may, with less elegance than truth, be compared to << cats in hell without any claws," and relief is seldom to be 10 - CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. obtained, but by escaping from the floating pandemonium to the shore, at the first opportunity. This is the most common expedient, and strange as h may seem, it is not unfrequently the case, that the officers of a ship use every means in their power, by rendering fife intolerable, to induce such a course to be taken by the crew. The reason for this will readily be j^erceived, when it is consi- dered that the men forfeit their share in the profits of .the voyage by deser- tion, and such a loss is somebody's gain. But it is unnecessary to give any more of the many reasons which may exist for a man's pursuing such a course. Suffice it lo say, that sailors have from time immemorial made a practice of running away from their ship, when they feel disposed, and will probably continue to do so for some time to come. We merely wish to show that a person could, under certain cir- custances, gratify a disposition to travel and spare himself the pain of bidding farewell, without infringing upon honorable principles. While spinning our present yarn we intend to confine ourselves prirvci- pally to actual scenes and occurrences, in an expedition which was prompted by a desire to escape from tyrannical and unjust treatment. They were certainly not deficient in interest or excitement, and sometimes pleasure to the actors ; and in our narrative we shall endeavor, by faithfully represent- ing them, to make them equally interesting, and, we charitably hope, much more agreeable, to those who may honor us with their attention. It may add to the interest of our tale, when we assert that we .shall represent nothing but what actually occurred, in its regular order, as faithfully as our memory will enable us to do, after a lapse of two or three years. Indeed an acquaintance with the writer would only confirm what will easily be per- ceived, that we are rarely embarrased by a too luxuriant imagination, and that we are exercising but little self-denial in confining ourselves to facts. We shall waste but few words on our outward bound voyage and cruising in the Pacific after whales ; not that it was devoid of interest, but enough has been written on such subjects for the present generation. Neither will we make out a list of the grievances which gave rise to a fixed, we may almost say a desperate resolution to leave our ship : or describe the estimable characters who ranked as Captain and Mate. If they were parsimonious, tyrannical and brutal to the last degree, they were good chris- tians at home, where their exemplary conduct and fervent piety were extremely edifying. This being a guaranty in our opinion of good treat- ment, we confess we were a little surprised when ordered to our regular employment on the first Sunday out, to hear the Captain jocularly remark, " no soundings no Sundays." As for ourselves individually we had profoundly repented of a certain headstrong determination, which is common to youths of 18 or 19 years of age, during the six weeks previous to our touching at Fayal for a stock of vegetables, he, &c. Rendered almost desperate by home-sickness, we thought only of escaping from the horrible life which was intended to last for three years from the time of our departure, and had made suitable pre- parations for deserting at this place. In these we had been assisted by a A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. {% coaple of Portuguese, who had relatives on shore, whom we recompensed by a gift of the effects, worth about a hundred and fifty dollars, which we were obliged to leave behind. . Therefore, just previous to the time when it was our turn to go on shore for a few hours, we arrayed ourselves in two or three shirts, as many -pairs of pants and stockings, our best hat, &c. &;c., not forgetting to put a spare biscuit and a potato or two in our pockets, to subsist upon in the rural excursion which we contemplated ; and after secretly exchanging adieu with all but the officers, we jumped lightly over the side and took our place in the boat for the .city, which was some two or three miles distant. The prospect of freedom and a speedy return to our native land removed a mountainous load which had long oppressed our home-sick soul, and we again felt an elasticity of spirts as new as delightful. Bright visions of happiness once enjoyed, and familiar haunts rendered dear by absence, arose in our mind, and in imagination we rushed to embrace our friends whose worth we had never before rightly appreciated — warm greetings sprung to our lips which they returned with — with — what? Here commenced an entirely new train of thought ; we remembered that our determination had caused much sorrow and anguish, but that after a fruitless opposition our friends were obliged to content themselves by providing us with every thing we could possibly make use of. Now there was no question but that we were beloved, hut what would they say if we came home within a couple of months, after our headstrong determination to be absent for three years. Reflection upon this point caused a peculiar sinking sensation in the region of the stomach, and we straightway determined to return to the ship and not leave her until she had doubled Cape Horn ; by which time our expe- rience would excite admiration rather than laughter. We therefore went on board again, much to the chagrin of our legatees, whom we found quar- reling over the division of our effects ; we immediately constituted ourselves an umpire in the disputes, and discovered a talent for the legal profession by appropriating the property in question to ourselves as a compensation for our services. Some two or three others endeavored to escape, but they were all retaken except one who had previously been considered *' the fool" — par eminence. He was of Irish descent and exhibited a national peculiarity in refusing to take any other kind of provisions with him excepting potatoes, of which, to the amazement of all present, he managed to stow away at least a peck about his person. His method of doing this was, to us at least, perfectly original. He pulled on a pair of woolen drawers which set close but were vesy elastic ; and into these he shoved as many boiled potatoes as the ample proportions of his go-ashore trowsers would allow — pulling them on, he filled his pockets, and lastly managed to stow a few small ones in his hat. All rejoiced at the escape of the cockney whose early experience had evidently unfitted him for a sailor's life. He was made up of peculiarities which made him the butt of every one ; and could not be induced to relin- quish the idea that it was highly dangerous to ascend the " footsteps " of the rigging in a dark night, without the aid of a lantern which he occasion- ally solicited from the officer of the deck. JO A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. We doubled Cape Horn in October, and after touching at Juan Fer- nandez on our way to the torid zone, commenced our whaling opera- tions. We engaged the more ardently in this business on account of our Captain's assurance that we should be liberally supplied with " liberty money " if we obtained a certain quantity of oil. We were fortunate, and obtained much more, before we shaped our course for the land, after a con- tinued and irksome residence aboard the ship of eight long months, with the exception of a few hours at Fayal, And the delight which all experi-^ enced as the cry of " Land Ho," rang out long and loudly from the mast- heads can scarcely be imagined much less described. It was like the opening of prison doors to the inhabitants of a dungeon. Soon we inhaled the breezes ladened with the fragrance of luxuriant tropical vegetation and, rapidly approaching the land, we were soon standing off and on before the town of Payti. We stopped merely long enough for the Captain to pro- cure two additional hands, when we shaped our course for the port of Tombez, intending to stop there two or three weeks. We arrived about sundown and were somewhat disappointed at our Captain's choice, which we learnt was determined by his desire to prevent any one from attempting to escape ; he had therefore selected the spot which of all others was least inviting — principally on account of the paucity of people, who did not number more than fifteen or twenty, beside children, dogs and fleas, which were very abundant. The town itself was situated inland some 8 or 10 miles from the mouth of the river, of the same name, and the dozen buildings we saw, were principally used for commercial purposes, receiving and storing goods. They were built upon the bank of the river just inside the bar, and on all other sides surrounded by almost impenetrable woods. There was not much variety therefore in the scenery, but it was a pleasing contrast to the situation we had endured for some time past. Our enjoyments however were somewhat qualified by the clouds of musquitoes which filled the air at all times. We never had any idea of such a voracious and blood-thirsty class of animals ; nothing in the shape of clothing, however thick, was any protection ; the attempts to protect our persons by wearing thick woolen garments, in spite of the heat, were utterly useless. We shall have occasion perhaps to allude to this annoyance again, but when we do not do so the reader may imagine us constantly employing one hand at least in slapping our faces and bodies whenever we were within five miles of the land. After working for a day or two between ship and shore, the starboard watch were told to prepare themselves for three days of liberty. Mean- while we had been pleasing ourselves with expectations of jolly times in the city, where we understood that fruits were very delicious, abundant and cheap, to say nothing of aguadiente. Imagine our dismay therefore when we received orders not to go more than half a mile from shore, and were told that we could not have a dollar to spend, while at the same time the Captain would make no other provision for us than to pay for two meals a day in a miserable pulperia. Such barbarity, after a tedious cruise of eight months, with another equally long and delightful one in prospect was not particu- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 13 lariy pleasing, and only tended to confirm sundry resolutions to escape at all hazard. We were not to be entirely baulked, however, and taking a large quan- tity of our clothes ashore, we were enabled to purchase a few gallons of New England, and secure a Spanish fiddler. Bullocks' hides were then spread upon the elastic floor of our boarding house, and in company with the crew of another ship, between dancing, drinking, and singing we spent day and night in most uproarious mirth, varying the exercises occasionally by riding donkeys and chasing alligators, which were abundant enough. It sometimes happened though that they turned the tables upon their pur- suers and made us exercise no little ingenuity and motive power to effect an escape. But none of us, meanwhile, had forgotten our resolutions to escape ; and it was while cogitating upon the idea of a solitary expedition, that We were made acquainted with a plan which had long been resolved upon by some of the choicest spirits on board ; it was to leave in a boat at night, with sufficient stores to last until some port could be gained, where there might be opportunities to depart under more favorable circumstances. But after arriving at Tombez, two had changed their minds for certain reasons, and we were invited, as a special proof of friendship, to fill one of the vacancies, with the explanation that we should have been originally included in the number, but it was feared that our health, which was delicate, would disable us from enduring the unavoidable exposure and fatigue of the trip. Any thing, however, was preferable to a longer stay aboard the ship, and we gladly accepted the generous invitation. The plan then determined upon, was to punctually return aboard the ship when our leave of absence had expired, and depart in a night or two after, which was the 18th of February, 184 — . CHAPTER IL Return Punctually Aboard — Sketches of Individuals herein Concerned — Their Compact — Preparations for an Escape — Honest Intentions — Parting Scenes — Get Safely Off — Tempes- tuous Night — Fine Morning and out of Sight of Land — Meny Breakfast — Future Plans — Organize and Commence our Voyage — Hot Weather — Laud Ahead — Heave too for the Night. Upon our return to the ship, the Captain could not conceal his joy at the success of his plans for preventing our desertion ; but we said nothing and secretly got our things ready for a start. It may be well now, before pro- ceeding farther, to give a brief sketch of the individuals whose wanderings and adventures we are about to relate, premising that we shall of course substitute fictitious names for real ones. Two of the party were petty officers, or boatsteerers, who live aft and exercise a limited authority over the crew. We shall designate them as Sherman and Albert. Out of the four boat- steerers on board, they were the most active, daring, and resolute — and although neither were over twenty-two years of age, their exploits and prowess in capturing and killing whales were unsurpassed, and commanded the admiration of all hands. Brave, and generous to a fault, they were beau-ideals of a true blue sailor — differing mostly in this, that Sherman was cool and persevering, while Albert was very excitable and prone to fickle- ness. The remainder of the party, with one exception, had shipped as green hands. Porter was a Vermonter, about seven feet in length, and had been both a teamster and apprentice to a blacksmith — perfectly cool and unflinching, with an iron frame, he was a man of few words, and invariably replied to any prudent doubts, " we can do any thing we set out to do." Lawrence was the son of a country printer, in the State of New-York — not remarkably bright, but of a good disposition, and a clever fellow. Clifford was one of the men who liad shipped in Payti, whom we took the more readily, because he pretended to know something about the coast. He had evidently, as he told us, received a collegiate education, but he was the hardest kind of a customer ; reckless and unprincipled, he boasted of having more than once vanquished his antagonist in deadly combat, and had participated a great deal in the unhappy wars which have so long dis- tracted the naturally rich and beautiful provinces of South America. Indeed, at the time of his coming aboard, he wore bandages both on an arm and leg, which had been pierced by bayonets, but were then nearly healed. Fear he seemed utterly unconscious of, and we have seen him when crossing the bar, where the sharks were numerous and voracious, throw himself from the boat into the breakers, and wantonly plunging his knive into one of the monsters, regain the boat in safety. Still he was not, when sober, an A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT., 15 unpleasant companion, as he combined a frank and cordial address with a reckless generosity, which prompted him to make any sacrifice for another, and refrain from imposing upon any one weaker than himself. Add to this your humble servant, the writer of these pages, who prefers to remain incog, and the list is complete. Our ages ranged from nineteen to twenty-three, and with all the enthu- siasm of youth, and the excitement with which the nature of the expedition inspired us, we vowed to stand by and support each other in all the scenes we might pass through. In truth, had we been brothers, there could not have been more unanimity or good feeling manifested from the time we united until we finally separated for different parts of the world. The re- membrance of it, contrasting as it does with our later experience in more refined society, throws a charm over that period of our life which prevents our regretting the privations and dangers which called forth such pure and noble feelings, and we do not think of them with less satisfaction because they were accompanied by honest roughness instead of insincere refinement. As we had no wish to profit by our escape other than to gain our liberty, we first of all determined to take the least valuable of the boats belonging^ to the ship, and nothing beside our own property but what was absolutely n-ecessary for the voyage, which we erroneously thought would be of only^ three or four days' duration. We thereby could not, by any possibility, be morally guilty of theft, as our collective shares of oil were more than three times as valuable as the articles we took from the ship ; the boat was very" old and leaky, having already seen about five years' service in former voy- ages, which fact proved our honesty, as we could as easily have taken any^ one of the three other boats, which were entirely new. j The night we had determined on at last arrived, it was dark and threat- ening, but as yet no rain. The rainy season was just commencing, and we had previously been made aware of the fact by frequent and heavy showers which came and departed with singular suddenness. The officers while in port slept all night below, leaving the deck in charge of the boat- steerers, who took turns in standing watch for three hours at a time. Sher- man and Albert had the watches from twelve until six o'clock in the morn- ing, during which time we intended to leave, and as soon after midnight a^ possible. At nigbifall we turned into our berths to avoid suspicion. We slept but little ; and soon after the watch was changed at midnight we si- lently ascended to the deck. Soma half-a-dozen were lying abosit who had. jeeft the forecastle on account of the heat, but tliey were all sleepin'^* soundly; and we immediately commenced furnishing the boiit witli sail,; oars, water, provisions, and our clothing, as rapidly and silently as possible. And our nerves, meanwhile, were not any more tranquil Irora the fact t))3t it was possible that some one of the officers might come on deck at any mo- ment during the hour that we were getting off. The most difficult part of, the business was the filling of a blanket with bread from a cask that was , situated about a foot from the head of the berth where the captain wa^ sleeping. Fortune favored us, however, and we were undisturbed : the last thing put into the boat was a large cheese, which it will be seen proved 1^5. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. of great use. We then, in order to secure an uninterrupted departure, se- curely fastened the doors leading into the cabins where the officers were sleeping, by winding large ropes about the companion way. Just then the wind began to blow harder in fitful blasts, while the blackness of the sky and the large and heavy drops of rain which commenced falling, betokened the rapid approach of a heavy thunder storm. We could not wait for it to pass by, however, but hastily and cautious-- ly stepping over our sleeping shipmates, four of us took our places in the, boat which was hanging by the ship's side. Then the other two, after wetting the puUies and ropes to prevent their making any noise, gently lowered away, and sliding down to the boat after she had reached the water, we pushed off from the ship. We lay on our oars in silence for a few moments so that we might drift a few yards before we commenced puUing, which we feared might wake some on board ; for a few moments nought was heard but the mournful howling of the wind through the rigging, the dashing of the waves as they broke round us, and the hoarse and sullen roar of the heavy rollers breaking upon the beach, and for the first time depressing sensations assailed us. It seemed almost like parting with 'an old friend to leave the old ship which had done us no wrong, and had carried us safely through so many dangers ; while at the same time we involuntarily compared our exposed situation, in view of the coming tempest, to a snug berth aboard. These feelings were but momentary however, and exchanging a few cheering words with each other we struck into a long and steady pull, steering square out into the ocean and directly against the wind. This we had determined to do be- cause we knew that 'once out of sight of land, the captain might as well try to find a needle in a haystack as ourselves, and that his only chance of catching us would be either to send or touch at such ports as he might con- clude that we would stop at. Our conjectures turned out to be correct, but we had to deal with an old head, and he caught us after all ; but con- cerning our capture and re-escape we will speak by and by. In a few moments after our departure the tempest burst over our heads ; it came butt-end foremost, and with a fury and violence peculiar to a tropi- cal thunder storm. Amid the pitchy darkness of the night and the pouring rain, the lightning played and glared around us incessantly, seeming like evil genii escaping from the mouth of hell, while long continued peals of thunder rattled overhead with a stunning and awful roar. The waves too rapidly rising covered us with spray as, dashing through the water, our boat rose and fell upon the long and angry swells. We had seen old Neptune in. his angr}^' moods, however, too often to be daunted by the raising of the waves, which he produced, as Virgil declares, by stirring up the sea from the bottom with his trident ; somewhat, we profanely suppose, like an enor- mous washwoman poking dirty clothes in a vast cauldron of raging suds. One of us meanv/hile had enough to do to keep the boat free from the water, which came in on all sides, and for four hours the storm continued in una- bated fury, while we continued to pull without ceasing. As dayhght approached, however, the« tempest rapidly subsided, and the rising sun JL GlUlSie IN A. WiiALE BOAT. ^7 quickly scattered the tempestuous clouds, the wind too soon died away to a perfect calm, causing the sea to subside into long and glassy swells. We then peaked our oars, and enlivened by the brightness and warmth of the brilliant sun, took a leisurely survey of the scene around us. We had made good headway during the night, so that our distance from the land caused it to appear in the distance like a light blue cloud just above the horizon ; nothing else met the eye but old ocean's wide expanse, still evincing by its uneasiness the agitation caused by the retreating storm. The sun shone brightly, and forgetting the troubles of the night we gaily commenced operations by exchanging our soaked clothing for drier gar- ments,, after which we attacked our bread and beef with right good will. We were in glorious spirits, and no doubt resembled a party of pleasure on a pic-nic excursion more than anything, else. For the first time in many months we felt the blessings of freedom, and our joy and exuitation were unbounded. Little thought we of the past, or cared for the future trials, while laughter, songs and jokes passed merrily round ; we pictured to our- selves the astonishment and rueful countenances which the morning's suii had disclosed, and like all other merry fools roared heartily at our own folly ; and our mirth was not lessened by Knowing that three of the men whose liberty expired that morning, had commenced making tracks over land on the evening before for the same place we were bound to. Breakfast over, however, we held a consultation as to our plans for the future, and in accordance with our previous determination, we concluded to steer directly for the city of Guayaquil. This was about two hundred miles distant, in a northerly direction, being situated about two degrees south of the Line, and about forty miles inland, upon the banks of the river bearing that name. We then organised ourselves into a regular body, assigning to each his place in the boat and peculiar duties. Albert and Sherman, we decided, should take turns in working the large steering oar which ran out aft, and, while one was thus employed^ the other should pull the bow oar, as it is customary for boatsteerers to do ; also that the one at the helm should be for the time being the Captain of the crew, and maintain proper discipline, with the proviso that no important step should be taken with- out the concurrence of the whole, as each one was considered of equal importance. Our provisions were then overhauled, and the amount to be distributed at each meal determined on ; as to water, we had three large boat kegs full, each of which held about eight gallons, so that we drank that ad libitum. All things being thus an-anged, we packed away our clothes, which had been drying in the sun, and made every thing snug and resumed our oars. The sun by this time was high in the heavens, and we soon found his rays oppressively hot, as there was not a breath of air. It being nothing more, though, than we had been accustomed to, with strong arms and cheerful hearts we pulled a long and measured stroke, until the sun was directly over head, when we peaked our oars for dinner. Just previous to this we had discovered highland a long distance ahead, which Clifford rightly pro^ nounced to be " El Morto," or " Dead Man's Island ;" so named both from 2 ]_8 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 'its shape, which has some resemblance to a man lying on his back, and from the numerous and dangerous reefs surrounding it, which have caused many a poor fellow to meet with a watery grave. It is merely a narrow strip of sand and rocks, about four miles in length by one in breadth, situated some twenty or thirty miles from shore, with a light house upon its eastern extremity. Hastily despatching our meal, although somewhat fatigued, we imme- diately resumed our oars and kept on our course, as we wished if possible to reach the island and pass the night on shore, not much fancying a repetition of the scenes of the previous night. Owing to the height of the land, however, we were greatly deceived as to its real distance, and by sun- set we were still some ten or fifteen miles distant, with the knowledge that the darkness would soon prevent our being able to effect a landing through the surf. We, therefore, concluded to heave the boat too under shortened sail, and pass the night on board. We accordingly prepared for it, by dividing the night into three watches, by which arrangement two would be awake and on duty at a time — one to keep the boat's head to the wind, while the other baled out the craft, which leaked badly. CHAPTER III. Tempestuous Weather — Exposed Quarters at Night — An Alarm — Perilous Situation — Narrow Escape — A Short Repose — Resume our Course — Puna — Island of Puna — Pull Around It — Another Night in the Boat — Varied Exposure — Scarcity of Water — Forlorn Appearance — Approach the Land — Delightful Country — Hospitable Reception — Jolly Times — Country People, Manners, Customs, &c. — Rainy and Dry Seasons — Country Houses — Scarcity of Water— Filthy Pool. The sky had for some two or three hours previous, given pretty strong indications of foul weather, and by sunset it was completely overcast with heavy clouds, which were rapidly hurried along by the rising gale. We occasionally heard the thunder growling and muttering in the distance, and within a few minutes after sunset we were enveloped in a thick darkness, which prevented our distinguishing any thing but the white caps of the curling waves as they broke within a short distance of the boat. It was not long before the rain began to descend in torrents, accompanied by a raging gale, which gave promise of a night still more tempestuous than the last ; we were under little anxiety, however, as we knew that our boat would out-ride almost any gale of wind, provided that there was plenty of sea-room, which we considered to be the case with us. Therefore, fatigued and exhausted, each man not on duty, stretched himself upon his seat, as far as the width of the boat would allow, and although entirely exposed to the descending flood, we soon forgot all discomforts in the most obHvious of slumbers. The night wore slowly away to those on watch until two or three o'clock in the morning, when we were suddenly startled and aroused by the loud cry of " all hands, man the boat ! pull for your lives !" Instantly all oars were in the water, and the boat under weigh, with Albert, whose watch it was, at the helm, pale as a ghost and bareheaded, his long hair streaming in the wind. We then began to comprehend our situation, which was perilous enough to make the stoutest heart tremble. The waves were running very high, owing to the unabated violence of the tempest, while the rain still descended in sheets ; but worse than all else, rollers mountain high were breaking with a thundering roar, upon a reef within a few rods of us, which we had evidently drifted over while the tide was at the full ; pulling hastily away from these, we were just beginning to congratulate ourselves upon our almost miraculous escape, when by the lurid glare of the lightning which illuminated the midnight gloom, we discovered break- ers a short distance ahead of us. We had evidently been swept by cur- rents we had not calculated upon, among rocks which were covered sufficiently at high water to allow of the heavy swells of the Pacific 20 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. passing over them to expend their Science against the rocky shores of El Morto ; but, exposed by the falling tide, they caused Hie for- mation of breakers, any one of which, had we been overtaken by them, would have swept us all into eternity. Ignorant, therefore, of the bearings of the reefs, and uncertain as to where breakers might any moment appear, as the tide continued to fall, our perplexity and distress may be easier ima- gined than described. Perceiving breakers both before and behind us, we pulled a-starboard, hoping to find a passage into the open sea, but a short pull likewise disclosed breakers ahead, and upon steering in an opposite di- rection, we were also repulsed ; in fact, we were surrounded on all sides. The horrors of that night will never be obliterated from our minds. The almost uninterrupted crashing of heaven's artillery, combined, with the thundering roar of the rollers which were breaking on all sides of us, in pro- ducing an uproar that was absolutely deafening. In addition to the heavy rain which was violently driven by the furious blasts, hardly permitting us to breathe, the impenetrable darkness of the night prevented ' our seeing each other in the boat, except when the horrors of the scene were disclosed by the sepulchral light of the lightning which played incessantly around us. This was, in fact, the means of our salvation, as we were thereby enabled to keep at a little distance from all the surrounding rocks as they were dis- closed by the falling tide. For three or four hours we were thus employed, pulling hither and thither, often making the narrowest escapes, until the morning's light began to dawn ; and the scene which was then disclosed only increased our surprise that we had lived to behold it, as we found our- selves between two long and frightful reefs about one quarter of a mile apart and three or four miles in length. We were glad enough to see daylight appear, and the storm abate at the same time ; we immediately began to look for a passage through the rocks, and soon discovered a narrow one which the darkness of the past night had prevented our observing. We soon passed it with difficulty, and did not stop pulling until we were in blue water and four or five miles from the inhospitable coast. By this time the rain had ceased, and the sun appearing, we peaked our oars in order to attend to our personal comfort, which of late had been sadly encroached upon. After a couple of hours spent in refreshing ourselves, we were obliged to resume our oars, as there was not wind enough to fill the sail. We now began to feel the want of one of the compasses which were at hand when we left the ship, but which we reframed from taking, in accordance with our resolve to take nothing we could possibly do without. We were fully undeceived however before the cruise was over, in our supposition that a compass was not particularly needed. The main land was visible in the distance, however, and shaping our course by the aid of that and the sun, we continued on our way. Before many hours we came in sight of the green hills, and dense woods of the fertile island of Puna, which is thirty or forty miles in length by about twenty five in breadth, and on which, as we afterwards discovered, there are many fine villages on the side next the main land. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 21 Not being certain about its situation relative to the nnouth of the river Guayaquil, which we wished to enter, we unfortunately concluded to pull around it and approach the main land from the other side, by which course we struck a point forty or fifty miles farther north, than where we wished to go. We also determined to effect a landing on the island if possible before night. We were again disappointed, however, and were obliged to remain in the boat, taking care to heave too at a sufficient distance from the land. There was scarcely any wind during the night, but as usual it rained heavi- ly ; so that between being scorched by the intense heat of a tropical sun by day, and thoroughly soaked at night, we did not lack for variety. We welcomed the rain this time, however, as we were tormented by thirst, owing to a discovery we had made in the early part of the day. Our smallest keg of water having been exhausted, we tapped another, but on applying it to our lips, what was our dismay at finding the water perfectly salt, and on a trial of the other keg it was found to be of the same kind. This was owing to their having been in the boat when they crossed the bar at Tombez, upon which the heavy breakers capsized us about every overy other time we went ashore ; and having been filled with salt water while floating about, they were brought on board without being emptied. As they were always kept full of fresh water for use, we of course did not think of tasting them, in the haste of our departure. We therefore endeavored to catch some rain water which was descend- ing upon us in the greatest abundance ; for this purpose we made use of the boat's sail by which to direct it into a bucket. Our efforts were no practical benefit to us, however, owing to the sail itself having been for some time saturated with salt water and also to the spray which was continually dashing over us and the boat, so that we were obliged to content ourselves with what our bodies might absorb during the night from our saturated clothing. The morning dawned at last, and upon rather a forlorn looking set, as the constant fatigue and exposure which we endured, in addition to a tor- menting thirst, were beginning to affect our strength. We lost no time in getting under weigh, however, immediately after eating our allowance of bread, and shaping our course for the main land, which was some twenty miles distant. There not being wind enough to fill the sail, we were obliged to pull the whole distance, and it was not until nearly noon that we had got within a mile or two of the shore. We could not help being highly pleased with the beauty and freshness of the country which lay before us, and of which we could hare an exten- sive view from the boat. The rugged peaks of the lofty Andes, blue in the distance, added grandeur to the scene, and nobly contrasted with the charm- ing foreground which, beautifully undulating, was finely diversified with smiling fields and shady groves, where the waving palms seemed to invite repose, far surpassing all our previous conceptions of the beauties and luxu- riance of tropical scenery. Inspired by the loveliness of the scene, we made all haste to land in front of a pretty hamlet which was situated just before us at about a quarter of a mile from the beach ; the inhabitants of 2^ A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. which we saw coming down en masse to receiye us, but whether with friendly or hostile intentions we were uncertain. On approaching the shore however our suspicions were soon dispelled ; several rushed into the breakers and seizing the long painter of our boat which we threw to them, pulled us rapidly and safely to the beach ; as many then taking hold as could find room to do so, merrily hauled the boat above high water mark. We could not have been more hospitably or warmly received than we were by these people, whom we soon discovered were a small community of simple fishermen. They were of Spanish intermixed with Indian. blood, with pleasing and open countenances, and complexions varying in color from almost pure white to deep bronze. They were evidently, although not wanting in natural vivacity, very unsophisticated and" uncontaminated with the vices of civilized life. Their wants easily supplied, and seldom visiting other places or seeing strangers, they led a happy and tranquil life with but little care or anxiety about the future. We were no sooner on land than they all crowded around us evincing the utmost curiosity, sympathy, and even admiration ; which was accounted for by their telling us that but two or three of them had ever seen an Englishman or American before. Perceiving however that we were some- what exhausted with fatigue and thirst, they pressed us to accompany them to their houses and stay as long as we pleased, which invitation we readily accepted. Having easily obtained a promise from us to pass the night with them, they insisted upon carrying every thing we possessed except the boat itself, to the house we were to occupy ; and every one that could, seizing ari article, brought it after us, as in company with our fair entertainers, especially, we took up our line of march for the village. Arriving there a spacious room was placed at our disposal, and the crowd soon retired to give us time for refreshment and repose. It will readily be believed that we did ample justice to an excellent dinner of fish, fowl, rice, plantains, he, which was soon provided for us. After reposing for an hour or two, we received an invitation from the worthy priest of the village, to the effect that he would be happy to have us visit him. We therefore, after carefully attending to our simple toilet, ascended to his house, where we met with a very cordial and kind reception. The old gentlemen seemed very much interested in the recital of our adven- ture, he, which we gave him, and gave evidence of a cultivated mind by the inquiries which be made concerning our native land. Although he was pledged by his profession to a life of celibacy, we were introduced to his son, a fine looking fellow of twenty, whose pretty wife did the honors of the house. After presenting us with some delicious aguadiente, superior to any we have ever tasted since, and which highly raised the old gentleman in the estimation of the men, as a man of taste and discernment, we took our leave much pleased with our reception. We must not omit alluding to our kind host and his family, who so warmly studied our comfort and happiness. He was about sixty years of age, grave and dignified, and, an official of some kind, evidently not depend- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 23 ^ ing like the rest, upon the labor of his hands for support, and, as well as his wife, he was of almost unmixed Spanish blood, which was evidenced by his light complexion. His wife was a very amiable woman, but not the least attractive personages in the house were her two very pretty and inter- esting daughters, of about seventeen and eighteen years of age. Lively and amiable, we had no little pleasure in their society, which, with that of a few other visitors, we enjoyed until late in the evening ; we were of course " distinguished strangers," and they were apparently no less delighted by our sea songs, than we were charmed while listening to their simple ballads. They, as well as the women generally, were dressed with a due regard to the heat of the climate and their love of ease. Although their dresses, which are imported ready made, were fashioned a la Anglaise, they con- fined them no higher than the waist, and suffering the sleeves and upper part of the dress to hang negligently down, were innocently prodigal of their charms, which were but partially concealed by a muslin garment, the name of which is, of course, unknown to us. We must not omit saying, also, that for purity and virtue, they are ornaments to their sex. The men, like the common people elsewhere, generally wore little else than colored cotton shirts, trowsers confined to the waist by a red sash, and broad brimmed straw or palm-leaf hats. Both sexes are generally very temperate in their diet, seldom drinking to excess, and very clean in their clothing and persons. It may not be amiss here to make a few general remarks also concern- ing the manner of constructing houses in the country, which are equally applicable wherever the year may be distinctly divided into seasons, the " rainy " and " dry." In the latitude we were in, the " rainy season " commenced sometime in February, and continues about three months ; during this period the rain descends almost constantly, mostly in heavy showers, at all hours of day and night, accompanied frequently by a great deal of thunder and lightning. After the rainy season is over, there is hardly ever a single shower for the nine succeeding months. This is of course, the most delightful season of the year ; although the weather is ex- ceedingly hot during the middle and greater part of the day, a delightful and cooling breeze invariably arises, even in the interior of the country, about sunset, and continues the greater part of the night. During the wet season the land in the country, where it cannot be drained as in the city, is of course completely saturated, and sometimes co- vered by the continued rains. To this is owing the almost universal custom of building the houses upon posts or piles from six to twelve feet in height, on the top of which the floor of the building is constructed ; this, as well as the sides, is generally constructed of the large bamboos or canes which may everywhere be found in abundance ; the roof also is constructed of the same, and thatched with dried palm leaves, which make it impenetrable to the rain. Owing to the warmth of the climate, one side of the house is ge- nerally left entirely open, or at the most but partially enclosed. The canes applied to the above purposes are generally cut when they are from fifty to a hundred feet in length, and prepared for use by being 24 • A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. cut in two, longitudinally, and pressed flat ; then cut into the requisite lengths, they constitute the principal part of the materials used for building both in town and country. Wishing to procure a good supply of water the next morning, in antici- pation of our departure, we were disappointed on learning the scarcity which existed. We learned that owing to the unusual heat and length of the preced- ing dry season, all the small streams and springs had been almost entirely dried up, and were not yet replenished by the small amount of rain which had so far fallen. Consequently, the inhabitants of the village we were in, liv- ing in an unusually dry part of the counrty, were entirely dependent for good water upon the rain which they could collect. This, so far, had been so small an amount, that they could provide us with merely what we con- sumed while among them. Therefore, early in the morning after our ar- rival, we set off to a small pond some two or three miles distant, accompa- nied by guides, and taking with us our boat kegs to fill. On arriving at the spot we found but very little water in the centre of the bed of the pond, which was now almost entirely exposed ; the bottom being a soft clay, which was frequently disturbed by the numerous jackasses which resorted there for drink, as we could see by the innumerable footprints around, the water was very foul and clayey, besides being covered with a thick green scum which we were obliged to disperse. This disgusting liquid we were obliged to collect or die of thirst, and after filling our kegs we returned to the village, where we concluded to stay until the ensuing day, a conclusion which was partly induced by the agree- able manner in which we could pass the time. The night wore slowly away to those on watch until two or three o'clock in the morning, when we were suddenly startled and aroused by the loud cry of " all hands, man the boat ! pull for your lives !" Instantly all oars were in the water, and the boat under weigh, with Albert, whose watch it was, pale as a ghost and bareheaded, his long hair strearaing in the wind. — See Page 19. CHAPTER IV. The Party AiTested and Taken Inland — The Cheese — Disinterestedness^ — Boat Leaves the Village — Humble a Puppy — A Voyage by Night — Another Village — The Meeting — Jolly Times — Ridiculous Costume — Put to Sea Again — Uncertainties — Wanderings on the Coast — Fine Scenery — Alligators — Their Habits — Dangers — Fishing Population — A Bonky — Barter Trades — Balsas or Catamarans. But our anticipated enjoyments were suddenly interrupted about noon by two or three armed and mounted officials from a town ten or twelve miles inland, to which information of our airival had been conveyed. They were accompanied by about a dozen attendants, mounted on jackasses, and brought an order requiring us to return with them immediately, and give an account of ourselves. We thought it best to comply, and leave having been obtained for one, the writer, to remain and look after our goods and chat- tels, the men prepared to depart ; but perceiving that they were expected to walk the whole distance they absolutely refused to stir a step until ani- mals were provided for them. Finding them resolute, some of the attend- ants were dismounted, and all started off upon donkeys, commencing their departure with the most outrageous noises and antics, riding stern foremost, and steering by the animals' tails, etc., to the huge amazement and delight of the natives who crowded around. Desirous of avoiding interruption in our journey, and on that account to propitiate the alcalde before whom they were summoned, it had been pro- posed and resolved upon to make him a present of our cheese, which was still almost entire, and weighing nearly twenty-five pounds. This we were induced to do by discovering that American cheese was universally consi- dered a very great luxury and highly prized ; in fact, there is no cheese made in the country which at all resembles it, but whether this is o\ving to natural causes or ignorance we cannot say. After the men had been absent some four or five hours, a petty officer and three attendants arrived with an order to the writer, directing the boat and all our property to be brought round by water to a certain village, some fifteen miles distant in a direct line, but twice the distance by water. This order of course we prepared to obey, though reluctantly, to the great regret of our hospitable entertainers, and with the less pleasure on our part, because we could not tell from the wording of the order whether it boded us ill or good, while we were very much irritated by the insolent and consequential deportment of the official, whom we afterwards humbled, as will be seen. However, as darkness was rapidly approaching, and the rising clouds indicated rain, we used all possible haste in loading the boat, and preparing for our departure. But wishing before leaving to testify our 28 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. gratitude for the generous hospitality which had been shown us by our kind entertainers, we in as delicate a manner as possible pressed our host and one or two others to accept of some articles, such as fancy clothing, etc., which we knew they highly prized. To our surprise they good naturedly, but firmly, refused to take even the smallest article, and we were obliged to content ourselves with thanking them in the warmest terms for their disin- terested kindness, which gave such evidence of their nobleness of character. The pain which we felt at parting, however, was somewhat alleviated by the tender farewell we took of a certain fair damsel who secretly accepted a souvenir or two. , At length, amid the good wishes of all we shoved off, and commenced our journey. The party was five in number, three cholas (a common term applied to the laboring classes,) the petty officer, and ourself, thereby leav- ing four of us to pull while the other took the helm. Of course a proper sense of our own importance as well as comfort inclined us to quickly seize the latter place of ease and dignity, much to the surprise of the official who had intended it for himself, not only to gratify his consequence, but on ac- count of his total ignorance of the proper method of handling the long and heavy oars of a whale boat. We cut short the argument which he vehe- mently commenced, however, by offering to decide the dispute by a contest, which should result in one of us being thrown overboard. Considering this evil to be the most disagreeable of the two, he reluctantly commenced blis- tering his hands by his awkward manner of rowing, greatly to the gratifica- tion of his menials who sat behind him, and testified their huge delight by grinning immoderately, but in perfect silence. Soon the rain began to fall, and telling the miserable being who was in- vested with a little authority that he was responsible for everything, and to pull away like a man without minding the rain, we made up a comfortable nest in the roomy stern of the boat, and after protecting it from the rain by the help of the sail, we coiled ourselves up therein, and were soon abstract- ed from all terrestrial cares and anxieties. Concerning the time which elapsed before daylight we have no recollec- tion, but on awaking in the morning about sunrise we were somewhat sur- prised to find the boat fastened to a wharf and the natives gone. Hastily ascertaining that everything was safe we took a survey of the scene around us. The nearest object was an immense inn, the appearance of which re- minded us at once of those which have been so often described by travel- lers in Spain. Scattered about, and within a short distance, were two or three hundred buildings of one, two, and three stories, the appearance of which indicated that there was some little business transacted at the place. The morning was bright and delightful, and the surrounding groves, which contributed to form a very pretty scene, seemed alive with the birds of gay plumage that hailed the rising sun with joyous songs. People now began to appear, and setting a native in charge of the boat, we endeavored to acquire some knowledge of our companions. But find- ing that no one had ever heard of them befoi'e, we philosophically concluded to await the natural course of events, and occupied our time by looking A CRUISE I-N A WKALE BOAT. 29 about tlie ship yard in front of the village, where there were some fifteen or twenty boats of from fiv^e to fifty tons in process of construction. Upon in- quiry we learnt that we were at the head of a long and narrow inlet of the sea, which was some ten miles distant. We found the ship-carpenters very sociable, and willingly accepted an invitation to breakfast, which we fully appreciated. After breakfast we were gratified by the return of our companions in high spirits, and accompanied by a deputation of some twenty or thirty persons from the place where they had passed the night. Two or three of them were custom-house ofiicers, who after examinino- our ba^sas:©, &.C., gave us permission to depart, much to our satisfaction. In this examination one of the officers mentioned above, was very much captivated by a bright red pair of flannel drawers trimmed with calico, and a guernsey frock, which was a tight fitting garment of a white ground ornamented with red spots, like the garments of a clown. As he offered a liberal price for them and we had no money, we sold them to^ him, wonder- ing meanwhile what he wished to do with them in such a climate, it seem- ing evident, that clothed in broadcloth as he was, he would not think of wearing them himself. What was our amazement, however, to see him after a short space, set out on his return, encased in the identical tight fitting under garments, and exhibiting in his deportment as much consequence as a peacock, which animal indeed he bore some resemblance to in color. The men gave a glowing account of the doings while we were separated. They had been kindly treated by the Alcalde, who was in extasies upon receiving the large cheese that was presented to him, and of which he with generous consideration insisted upon returning us a few pounds in addition to a present of fruits, bread, &c. In the evening they had been invited to an entertainment, which was enlivened by song and dance as well as with plenty of aguadiente ; and if they were to be believed, not only themselves but their host and his guests were all gloriously excited by the time the party broke up. After I'eceiving permission we departed immediately, fearing lest some- thing might arise on which we should be detained. Finding, too, that water was scarce here likewise, on account of the drought, the effects of which were as yet but slightly remedied by the rain, we contented ourselves with the small quantity of disgusting liquid that we had collected a few days before, trusting to our ability to procure some that was better soon. This was so thick and clayey that we were obliged to strain it through several thicknesses of cloth before it was possible to drink it, and even of this we were soon on an allowance of a gill a piece three times a day. For the two or three days ensuing, we were oftentimes at a loss which way to pull, and strongly felt the need of a compass ; first pulling in one direction and then in another, as it was deemed most expedient. We were very much embarrassed from the fact of our being in the boat so near the surface of the water, and thereby unable to see anything nearly on a level with ourselves, except it was within a very few miles of us ; and the coast being so full of indentations, we could not tell whether or no we might find ^Q A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. the moutli of Guayaquil river ; consequently we were obliged to pull into every apparent opening in the land in order to satisfy ourselves. We gained a good knowledge of the coast however, and of the people, principally fishermen, who navigated along shore, if there was no other good result from our wanderings. We also derived a great deal of pleasure from the beauties of the scenery, which we were consequently called upon to admire, and which were entirely beyond our feeble powers of description. Numberless small islands within a short distance of the shore, a few acres in extent, and covered with the most beautiful groves, and luxuriant vegetation, contributed to the formation of scenery, far surpassing all our previous con- ceptions of the glories of Fairy Land. Life and animation too were fur- nished in abundance, by the numberless feathered songsters, which at noon and night, filled the air with their cries and melodies, while the eye was delighted with their bright and gorgeous plumage. Then, too, the atmos- phere was loaded with fragrant perfumes, and when the glassy surface of the water was, though rarely, rufSed by the whispering zephyrs, it seemed as though, to descend a little, all creation was one vast smelling bottle. But, as is generally the case in this miserable world, there were some drawbacks on all this loveliness. The shores of the main land, and of those islands, which were as so many gems set in the liquid silver which surrounded them, were thronged with huge and disgusting alligators of all sizes, below twenty or twenty-five feet in length. They actually seemed to rival the mosquitoes in number, and to fill the water as they filled the air. What all those beasts could possibly find to subsist upon, is more than we can imagine ; except we take into account the flies and mosquitoes, of which unwieldy as they are, they actually catch and consume great numbers. They do not go after them, however, but while lazily basking in the sun, set a trap for them by throwing their upper jaw, which is very thin, back upon their body, and exposing the whole of their enormous mouth and tongue ; these are soon blackened by the myriads of insects which abound, when the wily animal suddenly claps his jaws together, and swallows the imprisoned insects. The greatest numbers of these alligators may be seen at low tide, when a wide strip of mudbank being exposed to the sun, they crawl up in great numbers to bask in his rays, meanwhile giving no other indication of life, than the aforesaid clapping of their fly-traps, which may be constantly heard cracking in all directions where they are abundant. And these reptiles were not only disgusting, but absolutely dangerous, although we were in a boat ; for it must be remembered that the boards of which a whale boat is constructed are but half an inch thick before they are planed, and had we while rapidly moving through the water, come in contract with the long protruberances of their bodies, we should immediately have been stove, and once in the water among them we should have gone to heaven in short order. Consequently where they abounded, we were not only obliged to go at a moderate pace, but also to station one person in the head of the boat, in order to pound them on the back with the butt end of an oar, and clear a passage ; while at the same time those who were pulling would be contin- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. • 31 ually hitting the backs of the reptiles with the ends of their oars. Occa- sionally, too, they would manifest some curiosity concerning us, by plunging into the water and swimming towards us, much to our dissatisfaction, since we knew that if only one made a vigorous plunge or two at the boat, the attack would certainly destroy it, and as a necessary consequence, we should immediately go to that universal receptacle for seamen, " Mr. David Jones' Locker." While thus cruising about we frequently fell in with many fishermen and small traders, mostly sociable and inquisitive, who generally navigate in a kind of craft called a " Bonky." These are constructed from a single log, which is first hewed into a proper shape and then dug out ; and are of all sizes up to eighty or ninety feet in length, and seven or eight feet wide ; they are always provided with a single mast and a large square sail. About one half of the length of the boat is covered by an arched roof of cane work, thatched with palm leaves, which is an effectual protection against the rain, and rays of the sun ; thus constituting a very good habitation for the family of the fisherman, women and children, who always accompany him, it being frequently the only habitation the man is possessed of. From these people we used to obtain all our provisions, consisting of fish, rice, plantains, etc., which were very good and very cheap. Our manner of doing business with them was to go along side, sometimes during the day, but regularly at night-fall, and contract with them to cook as much as we wished to eat for a specified consideration — perhaps a shirt, pair of trowsers, a bucket, a tin pan, or something of the kind, which they gener- ally preferred to money. Then at night, pulling into shallow water near the shore, we would stick an oar into the muddy bottom, and fastening the painter to it, soon lose ourselves in sound and refreshing slumbers, with the exception of the one who had the look out. There were many charms about our mode of life just then which we cannot but recur to with pleasure. The weather was warm and most of the time pleasant and agreeable. Our wants were few and generally easily supplied, while with a sailor's carelessness we had little anxiety about the future. Then, too, we were absolutely free and under no human restraint whatever ; we worked or rested just as it suited us ; went where we hked, and done as we liked ; while, at almost every step, we saw something new, strange, or beautiful, and little adventures were continually occurring. We must not forget to describe one kind of craft, which is perhaps the most common and useful as well as the simplest of all, being in fact to the natives along the whole extent of the coast almost as indispensable as the canal to the Arabs in the deserts of Arabia. They are called indiiFer- ently a " balsa" or " catamaran," being constructed entirely of logs or trunks of trees lashed firmly together; in fact, the simplest of them are nothing but mere rafts continually wet by the waves washing over them and about the limbs of the bare-legged fishermen or voyagers. Some are no more than twelve or fifteen feet in length by eight or ten in breadth, while others are constructed of two or three lengths of enormous logs, being one or two hun- dred feet in length and fifty or sixty feet wide. Upon the latter kind a .32 A CRL'ISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Staging or upper deck is generally constructed of from three to six feet high, upon which enormous cargoes are stowed, besides allowing room for a little house containing one or two rooms for the crew or family to reside in. This kind is also principally used for transporting fresh water along the coast in long earthen jars, which is a very extensive and important business. All sizes are furnished with a sail, generally very large, and it is surprising to see with what swiftness, the larger kinds particularly, will move through the water under a strong breeze. It is a work of some difficulty though to steer them, which is accomplished by using large paddles thrust between the logs astern, and which are worked by several men at a time in heavy weather, whose cries and shoutings help to make a very animated and ex- citing scene. The balsas are of course the safest kind of crafts in a heavy sea, or to land upon in a heavy surf, as they can be neither sunk or capsized ; the principal object at such times is to prevent one from being washed off by the waves, which are apt to sweep over them with almost irresistible vio- lence. CHAPTER V. Approach the River — Fright of a Bonky — Plenty of Fresh Water — Guard Boats — Summons- Ascend the River— Gloomy Scenes — A Light. — Go Ashore — Mosquito Story — The City in Sight — Beautiful Sight — Holiday Crowds— Our Reception — True Statement — Bitter Dis- appointment — Arrested — Resistance — Its Results — Irons — Plan for Escape — Commence ' our Return to the Ship — Row in the Boat. At last we drew near to the mouth of the river Guayaquil. Our supply of water having given out the day before, we endeavored to relieve our tormenting thirst, which was excited by rowing under a burning sun, by occasionally rinsing our parched mouths with salt water, and in so doing perceived, that, as we advanced, the water about us gradually grew fresher. Although we were not near einough to the mouth of the river to ascertain its exact locality, we knew both from this fact, and its discolora- tion, that it must be near. Inspired with joy, we pulled away with renewed vigor, and seeing a very large Bonky with its enormous sail standing away before the wind, at a distance of three or four miles, we pulled towards it, in order to gain some information. It was soon evident that the crew of the Bonky were somewhat suspicious, and endeaA'^oring to avoid us ; which, indeed, was not to be wondered at, considering the unnatural sight we pre- sented, resembling, perhaps, a party of land pirates. Their movements of course but inclined us to pull the harder, and by the time we were within a mile or two, they ran out a couple of long sweeps, upon which they pulled lustily. Thinking it a good opportunity for a joke, we sent our boat skim- ming along like a bird, and rapidly nearing the craft, set up a most outrar- geous yelling, screeching, and whooping ; this completed their terror, men, women and children screaming, groaning, and calling upon " todos santas," (all saints) they resigned themselves to their fate ; contented with the suc- cess of our joke, upon coming along-side, we merely asked the necessary questions, to which, evidently much relieved, they replied with the most officious kindness, and exchanging adios, we kept on our way. It was a little past noon when we entered the mouth of this noble river, which is here two or three miles wide, and scarcely less than one, at any point before reaching the city, about twenty, miles distant. After the scar- city of water, which we had so long experienced, we could not but highly estimate that which was now so abundant, and of which we imbibed enough during the afternoon, to make up for all lost time. After enjoying a repose of an hour or two, upon a green and shady spot by the river's side, we resum- ed our oars, hoping that we might be able to reach the city, without stopping elsewhere. During the voyage up the river, we discovered, what was previously 3 34 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Unknown to us, that two guarda castas, or small schooners, armed and equipped, were stationed in the river, whose business it was to look out for the interests of the city, so as to guard against smugglers, give notice of the approach of' enemies, &;c. During the afternoon, we passed one of these vessels, which was anchored on the opposite side of the river, and signalled for us to approach her; but not wishing any detention, we took no other notice of her, than to pull a little harder, and were soon out of sight. The next one we also saw soon after sunset, by which we were likewise signalled to approach, we endeavored to play the same game as before, but it would not do. Seeing that we paid no attention to them, or, were trying to escape, a long canoe, full of men, shot quickly away from her, and towards our- selves. Perceiving the bright barrels of their muskets, and the swiftness of the canoe, we concluded to put a bold face upon the matter, and pulled lustily for the guard boat, though not without many misgivings. Upon arriving, we answered all questions promptly, stating that we were bound direct for the city, and offering our baggage for inspection. After a short conversation, and a slight search had been made of the boat, we, to our great joy, were permitted to depart, and departing immediately with the current in our favor, we made rapid progress towards our destination. As night approached, the sky was gradually obscured by heavy clouds, and we were surrouded by a gloomy darkness ; nothing was to be seen but the black wall of woods on either hand, or, did anything break the silence of the night, but the murmurings of the breeze, or the voice of the wild beasts in the surrounding forests, and the gurgling of the eddying stream ; no lights were any where visible, and our discomforts were increased by a drizzling rain. Midnight was now near at hand, and contrary to our expectations, the city was not yet in sight. The current too had now turned against us, and made it difficult for us, as we were by this time somewhat exhausted, to do much more than hold our own. While in this uncomfortable position and state of perplexity, we espied a light glittering through the foliage upon the river's bank ; although uncertain as to the character of the place whence it proceeded, we pulled towards and hailed, hoping to meet with accommoda- tions, where we might repose during the night, and so proceed to the city by daylight. On our approaching, the light was instantly extinguished, but while hesitating as to what course to pursue, a voice hailed us in return, and after some explanation, we made our boat fast to a balsa, which was anchored near, and went ashore. We found a house of moderate dimensions, built in the elevated manner we have heretofore described, the occupants of which were a man and his wife, both somewhat advanced in life, and very poor. He had a few plan.- tains, however, from which we made a light supper, and then took our positions for the night ; but not to sleep, spite of our great fatigue. We had come very near being murdered by insects several times before, but our experience this time surpassed all others ; not one of us slept a wink during the night. A thick blanket which we made use of, notwithstanding the heat, was very little protection, and was quickly pierced in all directions, A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 35 with their poisonous bills. And we found no difficulty in believing the state- ment of our host, that within a few rods of the house, a man having been stripped by some villians, and tied to a tree, was a corpse before sunrise ; killed by mosquitoes. Indeed we very much feared that all of us would meet with the same fate. The next day was Sunday, and soon after sunrise we got under weigh, having been told that the city was only five or six miles distant ; the tide was running out very swiftly, however, and we made but slow headway. About nine o'clock, after rounding a long and narrow point, the beautiful city of Guayaquil was suddenly disclosed to our view. The city extends from the base of some lofty hills about two miles along the banks of the river; along the whole distance is constructed a wharf about twenty feet in height, beyond which is a magnificent public promenade of the same length, of about one hundred and fifty feet in width. This is bordered by the finest buildings in the city, many of which are lofty and magnificent, and universally painted a dazzling white. Sunday being the national holiday, the sti-eet was thronged from one end to the other by thousands of the popu lation in gaily colored dresses, presenting at once a brilliant and animated scene. Delighted with the aspect of the city where we hoped to terminate our wanderings, we pulled rapidly through the shipping which was anchored abreast of the town, and having gained the wharf and made fast the boat, we ascended to the street with mingled feelings of pleasure, curiosity, and anxiety. Such a singular arrival had attracted the attention of many during our approach, and immediately upon our landing we were surrounded by a large and inquiring crowd, who loudly expressed their admiration at our hardihood, when we told them the distance we had travelled ; and their as- tonishment was greatly increased by the appearance of our old and leaky: boat, which, indeed, not having been painted within a year or two, looked much worse than she really was. It may not be amiss here to state that a great deal of discussion had previously been carried on in the boat as to what statement it was best to make to the authorities on our arrival, in order to favorably account for our appearance in such a manner. Almost every one thought that a more advantageous report could be made by drawing upon our imagination for facts than by telling the real truth, and therefore many plausible stories had been fabricated and their merits discussed. These were all finally rejected, however, on account of the earnest arguments and remonstrances of one of the party, who succeeded in convincing the rest that the best and safest po- licy would be to tell the honest truth, which plan, in addition to many other good and obvious reasons, would at least prevent our being suspected of having done, or being willing to do, anything worse than we really had performed. And the justice of this reasoning was made evident when we were vi- sited by the captain of the port while yet standing upon the wharf; for, in fact, it exactly corresponded with information concerning us which had been received in the city some days previous. Of this we were uncon- 36 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT, scious, however, but could not help perceiving that he was evidently satis- fied with our statement ; and we were greatly pleased when he told us in the kindest manner that we were at liberty to follow our own inclinations, provided, of course, that we did not offend against any of the municipal laws. But the gratification which this reception created was suddenly dissi- pated by the arrival of the American consul, who declared that a person in pursuit of us had arrived in the city several days before, and that we must be immediately sent back to the ship in his custody. The good captain of the port interposed in our favor, but the consul declaring that the duties of his ofhce did not permit him to exercise any discretion in the matter, we were forthwith transferred to a naval schooner lying in the stream to await our return. This turn in our affairs was not only unexpected but decidedly disagree- able, and entertaining a very particular dislike to the idea of taking another cruise in the old ship, we began to consider the possibility of avoiding the apparent possibility of doing so. Upon inquiry we learned that our cap- tain had offered a reward of three hundred dollars for our arrest and trans- portation to the ship ; this amount had induced a rascally American, whom we shall call Allen, to go direct to Guayaquil, furnished with the necessary documents to the consul, in the expectation of finding us there and thus ob- taining the reward. Therefore, after considerable discussion, and fiinding that those in authority would not condescend to argue with us upon the ex- istence of a legal right to "send us back to Tombez, we could think of no better course than to resist as far as possible any attempt to do so. Accordingly, when the knave Allen visited us on the ensuing day, pro- fessing the best of feelings towards ourselves, and stating himself to be merely an agent for the consul, while.he endeavored to demonstrate the ne- cessity of our returning with him that very evening, we stated to him in very plain and emphatic terms the estimate we had formed of his character and the determination we had come to. Finding that we would not listen to argument at that time he went ashore again, but returned in the after- noon, bringing an order from the consul to the captain of the schooner, in whose custody we were, for our delivery, and also two whale boats, one of which was our old one, ready loaded with provisions, etc., for our departure. All this we treated with ridicule, and cut short his remarks by declaring that if he did not leave instanter we would throw him overboard, accompanying this assertion at the same time by assuring him of certain calamities which would inevitably befall him if he took any further steps in the matter. Ac- cordingly, he quickly departed for the second time, and soon after we for- got all our anxieties and cares in sleep. Others, however, were not disposed to take things so philosophically as ourselves, and about twelve o'clock at night, we were aroused from our slumbers, and ordered to the deck. Upon making our appearance there, we had the pleasure of seeing Allen again, accompanied by a file of soldiers, and a blacksmith with an assortment of irons, which were evidently intended as ornaments for our hands and feet. He hypocritically assured us that the A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 37 Consul was extremely angry at our conduct, and notwithstanding his pro- testations on our behalf, had ordered these extreme measures. Of course we were obliged to submit to the orders of the Consul, but the wrath of some of us was unbounded, and displayed itself to a certain extent in pre- dicting certain awful pains and penalties, which would inevitably be visited upon the head of Allen, at the first convenient opportunity. The rascal, although having the reputation of a reckless desperado, was evidently intimidated by the prospect of undertaking the journey he contemplated, with half a dozen desperate men, and therefore he endeavored to appease their indignation, by every argument that he could use, with which to exculpate himself, and throw the blame upon the Consul ; repre- senting himself as being merely the agent of others, and entertaining the greatest good feeling towards us, which he had displayed by making such lib- eral provision for our comfort during the voyage ; and he farther endeavored to impress us with a good opinion of himself, by interceding with the ac- companying officer to omit putting handcuffs upon us, which was granted. Finally, as sailors are not disposed to harbor enmities when no coercion is used, we rather sullenly concluded to make the best of the affair, and start on good terms. Although we had done nothing that we were ashamed of, it was not without a certain degree of mortification, that we contemplated the black- smith, while he was riveting the heavy irons upon our ancles. They were put on in such a manner as to confine two of us together, by the right and left foot of either ; and were extremely heavy, being about an inch and a half in diameter, besides being well put on. Still they had not been on more than a few moments, before the men were amusing themselves by practicing various antics upon deck to test the degree of agility it was possible for them to display, and discussing the most practicable method of swimming, while thus closely united, in case we should get overboard. All things at length having been arranged, we prepared to embark ; not, how- ever, before we had suddenly concerted a plan by which we might rid our- selves of our irons, and which in fact we successfully carried out before sun-rise. The credit of suggesting this idea, must be given to Clifford, who also provided for the future by appropriating a battle-axe, which we shall have occasion to speak of hereafter. Two boats were provided for ourselves and escort, one of which was our own, and the other was the one in which Allen had come to Guayaquil. These boats during the trip, were fastened together by a long tow-line, and at the time of our departure, Lawrence and Clifford were placed in the foremost, and the other two pair of us put into the opposite ends of the one astern, in which were also two oarsmen and a sentinel. Allen, by the way, was accompanied by five stout natives armed to the teeth with knives and cutlasses, who answered the double purpose of a guard and a crew to pull the boat, a service in which we positively refused to participate, consider- ing our dislike to the direction we were taking. The night was cloudy and dark when we started, with a fresh breeze dead ahead, although the swiftly flowing current of the river was in our favor. 38 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT, • Our guard had irritated us very much by their insolent and overbearing treatment, while superintending our departure from the Schooner, and we had not taken any notice of it, on account of the number who were standing around. But after losing sight of the Schooner in the darkness of the night, an insolent expression called out all our smothered rage, which was mani- fested by a simultaneous rising, accompanied by such a volley of growls, and a rattling of our irons, that all their bravery suddenly vanished, and bran- dishing their cutlasses and chattering like so many monkeys, they put them- selves at the greatest possible distance from us. After Allen had with some Httle difficulty quieted the commotion, we relapsed into quiet again, but the guard afterwards treated us with the greatest respect, and even evinced considerable agitation whenever we made any stir, or changed our position. CHAPTER VI. Saw off our Irons at Night — Dismay of the Guard — Beautiful Scenery — Stop at Puna — ^Plan for Liberty — The Attack — Free Again — Treatment of our Guard — Allen's Pitiful Story — His Duplicity — Generosity of the Men — Future Plans — Scarcity of Provisions — Pleasant Stopping Place — Singular Appearances — Absence of the Inhabitants. The night being dark, and the river pretty rough, everything favored our designs. Covering ourselves up with our coats, and apparently composing ourselves to sleep, we prepared to execute our plan for relieving ourselves from the irons. In anticipation of this we had, just as we were leaving the schooner, carefully secreted our knives about our persons, and commenced operations by striking the blades together, and by thus nicking them made of each a small saw. With these we commenced sawing off the heads of the large bolts that coupled us together, and after some hours of cautious and tedious labor accomplished the work without having been perceived. Therefore, as soon as daylight appeared, Clifford's announcement of his suc- cess was but the signal for a like avowal from all, accompanied by a gene- ral rising and throwing overboard the shackles which had fettered us ; while with joyful hurrahs we congratulated each other on our liberty. The Spaniards were horrified, and exhibited much trepidation at perceiv- ing such a number of desperadoes, as they evidently considered us, at li- berty. Allen too was evidently much chagrined, but he endeavored to conceal his real feelings, and make the best of the matter by laughing heartily, and declaring that having from the first strenuously opposed the imposition of the irons, he was glad we were free from them, accompanying his remarks by generously placing at our disposal four or five gallons of excellent spirits, which he had previously asserted belonged to some one else. We had no idea of indulging too freely when so much depended upon our prudent ac- tion, and therefore drank but sparingly ; at the same time we refrained from making any hostile demonstration on account of proximity to the guard boats in the river, and some other obvious reasons. As was generally the case the clouds disappeared with the shades of night, and the day was ushered in with a bright calm and glorious morning, giving us an opportunity of appreciating the loveliness of the surrounding country which we had passed through a short time before, while wrapt in gloomy darkness. Calmly gliding along the bosom of the noble river, we atoned for the fatigues of the past night by enjoying in luxurious indolence the new views and scenes continually brought before us by the moving landscape, while our senses were regaled by the refreshing fragrance of the morning air and the joyous melodies of innumerable songsters in the woods around. 40 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Aided by the rapid current it was not yet noon when we arrived at the mouth of the river, and came in sight of the beautiful island of Puna, where Allen told us he intended to stop a short time in order to procure a supply of bread, etc. We soon arrived at a small village, and not feeling ourselves under much restraint indulged ourselves without ceremony ia a short stroll, while Allen and the guard who had not gone to the baker's, remained in the boats. Here, after a little discussion, we came to the determination not to re- turn to the ship under any circumstances ; and to obviate the necessity of doing so we concluded it was necessary to make a regular capture of Allen and his men. This we accordingly resolved upon doing at all hazards, and after hastily arranging our plan of action, and agreeing to stand by each other without flinching, we went on board as though we had no thought of anything but to return to the ship. We knew that Allen kept a formidable pair of horse pistols at hand, and that the natives were well armed with knives and cutlasses, while we were possessed of no other weapons than two or three small knives, the boarding-axe of Clifford's, and the heavy bolts be- longing to the irons we had thrown overboard. Each one, however, had some kind of a weapon, and being equal in number to our antagonists, who were evidently, with the exception of Allen, afraid of us, we had no doubt of success. Therefore, on entering the boat, we distributed ourselves in the manner we had agreed upon, but with such apparent carelessness, that no suspicions were excited, and awaited the appointed signal. Happily we accomplished our design without bloodshed, which was partly owing to our resolve to give Allen a chance to surrender before seri- ously injuring any one. After the boats had been under weigh about an hour, and we had lost sight of the village, Sherman and Albert sprang upon Allen, which was a signal for the rest of us to seize the natives, who, with- out any suspicion of immediate danger, were pulling at their oars. Allen, desperado as he was, at first struggled fiercely with his assailants, but per- ceiving that his men, overcome with terror, were imploring mercy, and that he had to deal with persons not disposed to trifle, and determined to have their own way, he reluctantly consented to our demand for an unconditional surrender of himself, boat, and everything in it. After having thus got complete control of every thing and every body, we at once told Allen that our only object in what we had just done, hav- ing been to regain our liberty, and avoid returning to a ship we detested, we had no wish to profit farther by his defeat, and that therefore his boat, men and property were at his command, provided he would agree not to molest us any farther. Willingly accepting this condition, he warmly thanked us for what, unaccustomed as he was himself to act from principles of justice, he was pleased to call our generosity ; and at the same time offered to give us any information concerning the coast, which would be of service to us, as from his thorough acquaintance with it, he was able to do. Consultation was then held as to what course it was best pursue, as there was no other city within several hundred miles, at which we might have an A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 41 opportunity of shipping upon such voyages as we wished, and it was evidently imprudent to return immediately to Guayaquil, we were somewhat at a loss to know how we could best fill up our time, until we could pru- dently return to the latter place. While thus engaged, the artful villian, deeply skilled as he was in dissimulation, took occasion to lament the un- happy condition to which he said he had been reduced by the affair ; declaring that having given bonds to the amount of a thousand dollars, as security for the faithful performance of his contract to deliver us at Tombez, he should have to forfeit the amount. This loss, he also stated, would sweep away all the little property he was possessed of, and as a necessary consequence his wife and children, whom he regarded more than himself, would be plunged into miserable poverty. These representations of course warmly excited the sympathy of our generous tars, who disliked extremely to pursue a course which would inflict so much misery upon others ; at the same time it was impossible to think of returning to the ship. While in this state of perplexity, Allen, profiting by the sympathy he had excited, appealed to us as men, whether if it were possible for us to effect the object we had in view, and at the same time re- lieve him from his responsibilities, we would not do so, even at the expense of a little time and labor to ourselves. To this the men readily assented, and requested to hear his plan, which he unfolded as follows. It was for us to keep on our course, and land at Tombez during the night, so that we might avoid the ship ; then by showing ourselves to certain individuals who were mutual accquaintances, we should thereby furnish proof for Allen to the effect, that he had fulfilled his contract to deliver us at Tombez. After having done this, to hastily secure a supply of provisions and water, and depart immediately, for which apparent escape Allen would be neither responsible or blamed. By this plan we should be where we were when we first left the ship, excepting that we should possess a knowledge of the direct route to Guayaquil, by which we could return there in two or three days if we chose to do so ; at the end of which, or a longer time, we could most probably go without being molested, no one being in pursuit of us, while the probability would be that the captain tired of waiting, had shipped additional hands, and having departed for a cruise of several months, there would be no motive on the part of the Consul or any one else for our de- tention or arrest. To this plan, after a little consultation, our noble tars generously as- sented, although it was attended with a great deal of personal risk to our- selves. And if Allen's representations concerning the nature of his respon- sibilities, may appear shallow and incredible in a legal point of view, it should be borne in mind that the legislation of the country is proverbially loose and uncertain ; also that we had previously relied very strongly upon certain legal opinions we had entertained concerning the right of the American consul of another republic than that in which we were at the time of our desertion, to send us back to the ship, all of which proved of less value than the paper upon which we represented them to him. The men might there- fore be pardoned for believing what would not have imposed upon persons better acquainted with legal matters. 4g A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. It may not be improper to state that we afterwards discovered the almost entire falsity of Alien's statement. He had a wife and children, it was true, but he cared so little about them, that he had abandoned them some months before, and the tale by which he had excited the better sympa- thies of our men, was intended merely to decoy us into the clutches of sun- dry persons at Torabez. In fact our men suspected as much before they got there, but not being positively certain of his treachery, they would not break their word, but trusted to their own skill and hardihood to escape from any trap he might lure us into. What was the cause of the scantiness of the stock of provisions which Allen purchased, we cannot say, except, as was highly probable, he lacked funds to purchase more ; but certain it is, that after the twelve good appe- tites had been satisfied at noon, we were aware that the only antidote for hunger in the boat, was a bunch of green plantains, that could not be eaten without being previously cooked. Consequently it was determined to stop at the first place which gave any signal of the presence of human beings, aijd make some provision for the inner man. Drawing near to the extremity of the island of Puna some little time after noon, we fancied that we perceived buildings visible through the trees sur- iKDunding a pretty little cove, which was almost laud locked. This, together with the beauty of the spot, tempted us to pull towards the shore, and having entered the cove, we were agreeably surprised at seeing some three or four large and small constructed houses, built as is customary in the country, about ten or twelve feet from the surface of the ground. After securing the boats to the shore and leaving them in charge of the natives, we proceeded towards the buildings, which were a few hundred yards from the beach ; but to our amazement not a human being was visible in any direction, nor was any sounds to be heard but nature's busy hum. We en- tered two or three ; they were well furnished with hammocks and various other common articles, but still nobody was to be seen, and we were just coming to the conclusion that all the inhabitants, had for some inexplicable reason vamosed, when one of our party discovered the head of a human be- ing, who was suspiciously examining us from a small aperture in an adjoining house. Perceiving that he was noticed, he came down to meet us, and after exchanging salutations, though not in a very cordial manner, as he was evidently ill at ease, he invited us tO his house. We were not much prepossessed in his favor by his personal appearance, as he had one of the most villainous countenances we ever saw, while the handle of a dirk under his vest, and the outlines of pistols visible through his garments, rather seemed to indicate that his business, whatever it was, dif- fered somewhat from honest industry. But our appetites did not allow of any very extensive observations, before making inquiries about certain articles of diet ; he disappointed us, however, by stating that he was entirely out of provisions, and was pos- sessed of but a few quarts of water, and we were therefore obliged to con- tent ourselves with our bunch of plantains, which were soon roasted. After satisfying our hunger, we were at leisure to take a survey of the A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 43 house which was occupied by the only person we saw ; it was built in a very superior manner, being divided into three apartments, one about twen- ty by thirty feet, and two smaller ones each about fifteen feet square, while as is customary on account of the climate, one side of the house was almost entirely open. Several large and luxurious hammocks were suspended from the walls, and books and various other articles, both of necessity and sim- ple luxury, were scattered about. Two or three superior swords, also, hanging up in one of the smaller apartments, did not escape our observation, as well as a musket, and three or four large knives that were inserted in the light cane work of the walls af the apartments. CHAPTER VII. No Women, etc. — Land Pirates — New Arrival — Fighting — Peril of Allen — Another Assault — Punish the Assailants — Depart — Pass the Night in the Boat — Laud at El Morto — Sea Fowl — Quantities of Eggs — Preparations for a Delicious Meal — A Slight Disappointment — Tender GuU — Leave for Tombez — Allen's Treachery — Night Perils — Allen's Rascality and Departure — Land at Tombez. Jn addition to the curiosity which the aspect of the building and the ab- sence of their tenants excited, we were still more surprised by not seeing any females or any articles which indicated they were ever present. Our curiosity however was destined to remain unsatisfied, as we soon discovered that it was utterly useless to seek information from the only individual we saw, his manners being reserved and somewhat haughty, as well as irritable, which last peculiarity displayed itself in a rather too vehement expostula- tion with the men whom he thought, and perhaps justly, were most too in- quisitive. Not wishing to quarrel with him, however, we replied in a pa- cific manner, and his anger gradually subsided. Meanwhile, and during the remainder of our stay, we could not help observing the long and anxious glances that he occasionally cast along the coast, perhaps in momentary expectation of the individuals who evidently inhabited or resorted to the buildings about us, and whom from sundry ap- pearances we thought it possible might be a party of land pirates, although that description of people are now nearly, if not quite, exterminated. Con- fiding in our numbers and arms, however', we felt no solicitude, and seduced by the beauties and comforts of the place, we came to the conclusion that it was a much pleasanter place in which to pass the night than the boat, and a fine opportunity to repose from the discomforts and fatigues which we had lately endured. Accordingly, without making any preparations for our departure, each one selected a location and position best suited for the indulgence of his in- dolent feelings. Some preferred a hammock, while others luxuriated upon the green and fragrant verdure shaded by waving palms. Still one or two more reclining upon a couch of dried plantain leaves, strewed near the side of the house open to the ocean, enjoyed the whispering zephyrs which oc- casionally ruffled the glossy surface of the deep, while they beguiled the passing hour with reminiscences of home and former happiness. We were aroused ere long, however, from our repose, by the arrival of a couple of Cholas in a canoe, evidently just returned from a fishing ex- cursion, in which they had collected quite a large quantity of shell-fish. They seemed to entertain great respect for the Spaniard, who quickly and privately interrogated them, seemingly about some other persons. How- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 45 ever, we found them very good natured fellows, and offering to purchase their fish they immediately placed them at our disposal, and assisted in cooking them by the fire. Such generous hospitality we of course felt bound to recompense, and finding that nothing was more acceptable to them than the contents of our two demijohns, they were forthwith brought up to the house, and after our acceptable repast, imbibed with much gusto, especially by the Cholas, and also the Spaniards, who had declined eating with us. Our men, however, drank with moderation, and again began to make preparations for the night, but the Spaniard and his servants meanwhile in- dulged without restraint, and before long became exceedingly quarrelsome. Little notice was taken of them, however ; but v/hile most of us had gone down to the boat for a short space, they, without any provocation, rushed upon Lawrence and Clifford, who were lying upon the floor of the house, J^ the Spaniard with a drawn sword, and the Cholas with long knives, compel- ling them to retreat into the open air. This they were fortunately able to do without receiving any injury, and at the same time inflict a few sound blows upon their assailants by the aid of a couple of sticks which were for- tunately at hand. Next to a pistol a stout club is most dreaded by the na- tives generally ; they will engage an antagonist single handed, who is armed only with a knife, in the, use of which they are very expert ; but half a dozen or more may be kept at hay by the aid of a stick. This unprovoked assault very naturally provoked our men to a high degree, and they were also alarmed by recollecting that Allen still remained asleep in the house, and at the mercy of the savage inmates. Hastily arm- ing ourselves, we instantly proceeded to his rescue, but while doing so were agreeably surprised at seeing him hastily leap from a window, at some dis- tance from the ground, and uninjured. A consultation was then held, as to what should be done with the aggressors, who were now, reckless with excitement, loudly heaping abusive epithets and execrations upon us. Some were for inflicting summary chastisement upon them, and one or two hot-headed fellows, were for applying fire to the house, but these hasty pro- positions were overruled by the cool ones of the party, who reflected that such a course might involve us in difficulties hereafter, and of these we could already expect enough. Therefore, we cojicluded the wisest course to pursue, would be to abandon our idea of staying all night in such a suspicious locality, and leave at once. So collecting the few articles of ours which were lying about, without taking any farther notice of our wrathful assailants ; who perceiving this movement, insanely thought it an evidence of fear, although we outnumbered them four to one, and redoubled their revilings, of which we took not the least notice. But just as the party were leaving, the writer returned to obtain drink from the water jar, not dreaming that the rascals would dare to descend from the story above. While drinking, however, the Spaniard lightly descended, unperceived, and as we were turning to depart, he treacherously aimed a tremendous blow at our back, with his naked sword. Fortunately perceiving the weapon, however, while raised ^ A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. in the air, we managed to evade the blow so far as to prevent its taking effect, only upon the nether part of the pantaloons, in which it caused an awful rent, after which the coward hastily retreated to the top of the stair- case, as our companions, with a cry of rage, came to our rescue. This was an outrage that could not be passed over, and a grand rush was made up the stair-case. Frightened at such a determined attack, they made but a slight resistance, and we gained a bloodless victory, capturing at the same time the two cholas, who were soon brought to their senses by a whole- some beating, the deserved severity of which, however, was tempered by the remembrance of their former hospitality. The Spaniard, meanwhile, had retreated to a smaller apartment, the door of which he barricaded, and declaring that he had but one life to lose, and sooner than surrender, he would sell it as dearly as possible. Again, prudential considerations pre- ^ vented our proceeding to extremities, and as darkness was rapidly approach- ing, we hastily embarked, and kept on our course during the night towards El Morto. We met this individual several months after, in the streets of Guayaquil, richly dressed ; an expression of diabolical malignity writhed about his pale features, as he caught our contemptuous glance, but he dared take no other notice of us. During the night we slowly progressed towards El Morto. For a wonder there was no rain, and leaving the labor of rowing, as the wind was ahead, to Allen's crew, we stowed ourselves comfortably away in the old . boat, which from our long residence in it, by night and day, began to seem very like an old homestead ; the only drawback on our careless happiness, was a tormenting thirst, which was owing both to the salt fish we had con- sumed, and brandy, which was the only substitute we had for water. Morning dawned at last, and during the early part of the day, the time hung rather heavily on our hands, being, as we were, under a burning sun, without provisions or water. But by two or three o'clock we had arrived at El Morto, where we hoped to obtain some supplies, and putting all our baggage, &;c., into one boat, which we left afloat under the charge of the natives, we effected a landing through the heavy surf, upon the narrow strip of sand beach at the east of the lofty rocks which compose the greater part of the Island. On the highest part of these is erected a light-house, some two or three miles from our landing, and hither we despatched a committee of two, to purchase provisions if they could be obtained. This seemed to be our only chance of obtaining any thing wherewith to satisfy our hunger and thirst, as nothing was to be seen but sand and rocks. There were a great many seafowl, however, about the Island, and observ- ing them flying to and from the top of the overhanging rocks, we concludeo to attempt to ascend their precipitous sides ; this, after some toil, we at last accomplished, and were well repaid for our trouble by the extensive view alone, of the surrounding country, which they afforded. The air was per- fectly clear, and besides old ocean's boundless expanse, Puna was visible, and that part of the main land between us and the Andes, whose lofty peaks seemed to pierce the sky ; but to some of us at least, the sight which A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 47, the top of the rocks presented was still more interesting ; we were surprised at finding ourselves upon an elevated plain, affording sustenance to a rough and stunted growth of thorn bushes, and seemingly alive with every kind of sea fowl, from the tiny diver no larger than a Mother Gary's chicken, to the large and clumsy pelican, some six or seven feet in length. Though not very successful in our attempts to capture any of them., we were well pleased at observing the great number of eggs in their nests, -Vvhich we plundered, notwithstanding the fierce clamor which the lawful proprietors kept up, within a few feet of our heads. Having loaded ourselves with as many as we could carry, and a large gull which had got entangled in the bushes, we descended to the beach, well pleased with our success. Here we met our two companions, accom- panied by the light house keeper, who, not having yet received his regular supplies, could not furnish us with any thing except an iron pot, in which to cook our eggs. Anticipating a delicious meal from these, however, we cared but little about it, and hastily building a large fire, our eggs were soon boiling in salt water. Meanwhile we amused ourselves, by recalling to mind the delightful flavor of the omelettes, poached eggs, soft boiled eggs and hard boiled eggs, that we used to relish in ancient times, and in order to suit those who preferred eggs soft, on the present occasion, some were taken out before the rest, and the whole being placed in two dishes, or rather piles, we ranged ourselves around them, a la Turque, in the sand, and eagerly commenced our repast. But our tempting visions of epicurean fehcity were suddenly dissipated, when we came to taste the whited — not sepulchres exactly — but something that smelt hke them ; there was no disguising the fact that they would not boil hard, and had a most disgustingly rank fishy smell and taste, which inclined us to prefer starvation, to the use of any such remedy for it. Our only resource then was the gull, which was broiling upon the cinders ; though the trouble of cutting him open while raw, prevented our cherishing any but extremely moderate opinions of his delicacy. But even these passed away when we attempted to devour that small portion of him, which from a slight degree of flexibility could not properly be called bones ; such muscles we never had conceived of before, for compared to them a rope's end would be a delicacy. We therefore refrained from hazarding our teeth upon the venerable patri- arch, and carefully laid him one side as something to fall back upon, after h9.ving consumed the painter of our boat. Darkness was now near at hand, and wishing to get clear of the long reefs which extended in almost every direction from the island, we hastened to depart. Our motions were somewhat quickened too, by our recollec- tions of the perils we had so miraculously escaped on a former night. But more important than all, this was the night in which we contemplated arriv- ing at Tombez, when we were to carry into effect the scheme which had been concocted and agreed upon in order to relieve Allen from certain dis- agreeable contingencies, which he falsely declared would result from our unceremonious manner of obtaining our liberty. Our men had been in- duced to pursue this course so fraught with dangers to themselves, by their 48 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. generous desire to save individuals whom they had never seen, and who were the relations of a man we had detested, from poverty and distress ; and we had the satisfaction soon after of knowing that Allen's statement and appeal to our better feelings, was only a detestable piece of treachery, calculated to decoy us into captivity, and thereby enable him to obtain the reward of three hundred dollars, which had been offered for us. As we have before said, it had been agreed that we should arrive during the night at Tombez, and leave immediatly after. This, however, would not favor the designs of Allen, who endeavored to delay our arrival until daylight by steering out of the direct course. This he accomplished the easier on account of the almost impenetrable darkness of the stormy night, which prevented our observing land, and from the fact that he directed the course of the boats, which we were almost obliged to confide to him, because he was the only one acquainted with the direct route. The night wore gradually away, and the light upon El Morto still kept in sight, much to the dissatisfaction of the men, who began to suspect that Allen was purposely delaying our progress. Soon after midnight, too, breakers were heard in the distance, though they could not be seen on ac- count of the darkness, which confirmed their suspicions, but which Allen lamely accounted for by attributing our present position to strong currents, etc., and at the same time altered the course of the boat to get clear of the rocks which were evidently near at hand. Still their roar continually grew more distinct, which showed that a strong current was actually sweeping us into a dangerous locality in spite of the exertions of the natives and Allen, who was assisting and urginor his men while he was somewhat disturbed himself. Under these circumstances we pulled up the boat astern, in which the men were stowed away, and urged them to take their oars in self-de- fence; mortified, however, at being thus tricked by Allen, while they were unable to help themselves on account of the ignorance of our locality, they had indulged freely in ardent spirits, and were just drunk enough to be per- fectly insensible to fear ; and in reply to our persuasions, they doggedly re- fused to stir hand or foot, even if they were all swept into eternity, or, as they phrased it, " went to hell" the next moment. In despair, therefore, we hastily returned to the other boat, the crew of which, confused by fear, were momentarily pulling more irregularly, and of course ineffectually. In a few moments after the bow oarsman, and the largest man in the boat, ac- tually dropped his oar, and fell to crying lustily upon all the saints in the calendar for protection. Enraged to the highest degree by his pusillanimity and that of the rest, at such a critical time, v/e seized the battle-axe which was near at hand, and dashing him into the bottom of the boat by the hair of his head, threat- ened him with instant death if he uttered another syllable. Then taking his place, we pulled with all strength, at the same time threatening to dash out the brains of the first man who missed stroke or refused to exert his ut- most strength. Such a demonstration brought the cowards to their senses, and after an hour of the hardest work we ever done before, we had the satis- faction of having escaped the impending dangers. A CRiriST: IN A WHALE ffOAr. 49 Towards daybreak the clouds began to disappear before the rising sun, though giving promise of a windy day, and the morning dawned clear and bright, discovering Tombez some ten or twelve miles distant. There was but one ship lying at anchor which resembled, and we thought probably was, the oi\e we had left two 'or three weeks before ; this disinclined us to proceed further, but having been without water and provisions for two or three days, it was considered imprudent to risk commencing another voyage when there was no probability of our being able to procure supphes within two or three hundred miles. Therefore, the men determined to risk a land- ing, resolving, nevertheless, that if appearances should indicate anything particularly unfavorable to ourselves, that they would take summary ven- geance upon Allen for his treachery. While thus- slowly approaching the shore we perceived a small native schooner standing across our bows from the land, and after hailing, we pulled towards them for the sake of acquiring information. Greatly tO' our satisfaction they informed us that the ship- in sight was a stranger to us, and that our ship had left the day before for a distant port to procure additional men, the captain having left word that he should return in a week or two in order to hear from us. This news of course mortified Allen, who was bitterly chagrined at finding that all his trouble and rascality for the last three weeks was fruitless. It happened, moreover, that the officers of the craft we were alongside of were old acquaintances of Allen, and being bound upon a pearling excursion, invited him to accompany them. This offer was readily accepted by the shiftless fellow, who forthwith embarked, after requesting us to take his boat ashore where it belonged, and without making the slightest provision for the men he had hired in Guaya- quil for the trip to Tombez. Happy, therefore, in this seemingly favorable turn in our affairs, we gaily resumed our old places in the boat, and pulled for the shore, mean- while promising ourselves a short repose on shore with our old boarding- house keeper, and an abundant supply of provisions and water on our de- parture. CHAPTER VIII. Land at Tombez — Awful Disappointment — Flight — Wreck — Press of Sail — Great Speed — Reach Puna — Watch " on Deck " — Desertion of Clifford — His Baggage — Famished Con- dition — A Sail — Hospitahty — Another Flight and Escape — A Night in the Boat — Consulta- tion — Future Plans — Village of Puua — Oysters. Rejoicing therefore in the prospect of luxuriating upon the various varieties of fish, flesh, and flow], we had formerly discussed in the same locality, we jumped ashore outside the bar, and hastily crossing the narrow- point of land which separates the river from the ocean, came in sight of the little village we had left a few weeks before. Every thing wore the same appearance as formerly, even to our old boarding-house, with its careless, jolly landlord lolling in the doorway, who hastend to obey our summons for a boat in which to cross the stream, and whose approach we awaited in silence, overpowered by feelings such as can be induced only by a two days fast, under a burning sun, with so many tempting luxuries in prospect. He came, but in reply to our greetings, interminged with provisional inquiries, hastily told us that owing to the standing reward our Captain had left for us until his return, we were on dangerous ground, and likely to be arrested as soon as discovered by the ofiicials. And in fact, at that very moment, to our horror, we beheld the glittering arms of a squad of soldiers, through the foliage of a grove, a quarter of a mile distant, as they were approaching in order to take us into custody. Instantly perceiving that there was no more time for deliberation than there was need of, we exchanged one glance of agonised dismay, and cast- ing a long fond look towards the kids and chickens on the opposite bank of the river, we rushed headlong to the boat, meditating by the way, upon the uncertainty of all human calculations, and the folly of looking to the things of this world for happiness. Fortunately for us, the wind had by this time increased almost to a gale, so hastily shoving off, we hoisted our enormous sail and were soon flying over the crested waves with a racer's speed. We had got scarcely a mile from the beach, before our pursuers had crossed the river and came in sight, only to find that their pray had escaped, and see us waving our hats in derision as they vented their impotent rage in a harmless volley. Seeing them prepare to start in pursuit of us, however, by launching a boat, we got every thing ready in good earnest for a race, though without much apprehension of being overtaken. We had only just lost sight of them around a long point of land, some five miles distant, when to our surprise and dismay, away went our mast and sail with a crash into the water. Having no time to lose, and dreading lest at each moment our pursuers A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Q| should appear, we hastily pulled the dripping sail and mast into the boat, and prepared to remedy the accident as quickly as possible. We found the mast uninjured, but the stout thwart of hickory wood through which it passed before being inserted in the " step" at the bottom of the boat, was so badly- split as to be rendered useless. There was no other way then, than to cut a hole for the mast in the thwart next astern, which we at last accom- plished, although we had to do it with our knives. This time, before starting, we guarded against another like accident, hy making a couple of braces from the top of the mast to the windward side of the boat, with a part of our long and stout painter ; then giving our sail to the wind again, we were soon dashing through the high and furious waves, which covered us with their spray. Thinking, however, that by judiciously ballasting the boat, our old craft might carry a little more sail, we stretched the remainder of our rope from the top of the mast to the end of an oar, which we ran out forward, and by the aid of a large blanket, made an enormous jib. Then taking such positions as would best serve to bal- last the boat, and holding the sails so that they could be let go at the least increase in the stiff and steady breeze, we forgot hunger and thirst for a while in the excitejuent of the scene, as the boat literally flew before the gale. We had left Tombez about noon, and until several hours after sunset, kept nearly a straight course, with scarcely any variation in our previous speed, and without seeing anything of our' pursuers in the meantime. During the afternoon we came very near El Morto, or " Dead Man's Island," but knowing that we could obtain nothing there, except the kind of eggs we have previously described, we passed it, and kept on towards Puna ; contrary to our expectation, the wind did not abate any at sunset, and the stars appeared bright and clear, enabling us to keep our course without any difficulty ; our old boat behaved nobly, although the carrying of such a terrible press of sail strained her very much, keeping one person constantly baling, and by ten at night we had actually made the nearest extremity of the Island of .Puna, which is at least one hundred and sixty miles from. Tombez. Not having seen our pursuers by this time, and knowing that if they had followed us they were a long distance behind, and could not find us during the night, we put into a pretty little harbor, and prepared to pass the night in the boat. Then thrusting our long steering oar into the soft bottom of the cove, at a short distance from the shore, we " set the watch," and were soon in the arms of Morpheus. It happened to be our first " watch upon deck," and we abandoned ourself to reflections, which we had but seldom indulged in amid the con- stant excitement of the last few weeks, and which were favored by the quiet beauty of the surrounding scene. The little sheet of water upon which we were floating, and whose glassy surface resembling molten silver, contrasted so beautifully with the verdant luxuriance around, was perfectly protected by the surrounding hills from the breeze which still roared and moaned among the lofty forest. Above, the dark blue vaults of heaven, studded with its twinkling orbs, appeared in all the magnificence of tropical S^ A CRUISE IN A WflALE BOAT. ^ brilliancy, while soaring upwards in the eastern sky, the glorious thooh blazed with a refulgent light, whose radiance bathed all things round in loveliness, and exercised its usual subduing influence upon the elements. And beholding there aloft those constellations, that seemed like friends amid surrounding novelties, our thoughts reverted to distant scenes and-'by- gone times ; again we lived over the past, and indulged in hopes of future happiness. Recurring to later periods we thought of our gay departure froni our native land, for a life upon the bounding sea, and our disgust at the petty tyranny and revolting coarseness, inseparable from forecastle life, contrasting as it does with the grandeur and sublimity ever displayed by the moving expanse around. Our contemplated escape from such intolerable evils at Fayal, and its postponement to a later period. Then the eventful, almost romantic nature of our expedition, for the last few weeks, were ample food for thought, and yet more as to whether future events would bode us ill or good. Ah ! well it is that from us is withheld the power of reading secrets yet hidden in the womb of time ; thereby is left us room for hope, whose mild and gentle light serves instead of present happiness, to illuminate our clouded minds, and cheer our drooping hearts. After thinking of these things, dear reader, we called the watch and went to sleep. In the haste of our departure, or rather in our description of it, we neg- lected to mention the desertion of Clifford, who had insisted upon leaving us on some crazy expedition or other that suggested itself after our arrival at Tombez, although we endeavored to persuade him to the contrary, know- ing that no good, at least, would result to him from it. We were not sorry, to part with him, on account of his being exceedingly quarrelsome when in- toxicated, which he had been almost continually of late, not having exer- cised the least self-control. This quarrelsomeness had created many unpleasant feelings in the boat, when otherwise there had been nothing to disturb our harmony. There had even been an open row a few days be- fore, when the patience of' the men having been exhausted by his outrageous conduct, they had found it necessary to prove to him that there was a power superior to his, and to which, after a desperate struggle, he was obliged to submit. During this fracas, which was caused by his commenc- ing to stave and sink the boat we were in, he made a hole in its side with the sharp point of his boarding-axe, and this some time after formed an im- portant link in the chain of circumstantial evidence which was gravely ad- duced against us in support of a charge of murder ! We parted good friends, however, and found it impossible to refuse his last request, which he urged as a last one, and accordingly gave him the remainder, about half a gallon, of our stock of spirits. This, with his battle-axe and knife, constituted the whole of his "baggage," when he disappeared in the woods, after-refusing all our offers of clothing, etc. We heard of him some time afterwards as having just made a daring escape from prison, after a long and close con- finement. Morning dawned at length with a cloudless sky, a burning sun, and a dead calm. This was the third day during which we had eaten scarcely a « A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAr. 53 maiTthful of anything, and most of the time hard at work. Our weakness and exhaustion, therefore, were by no means inconsiderable, somewhat in- disposing us to use our oars, which we were compelled to do or starve where we.were. Getting under weigh, therefore, we pulled out of the cove we were in, and were gladdened by the sight of a small Spanish schooner at a distance of some six or eight miles. Thinking that we might gain some refreshment on board, and if so, that it was the nearest place where we could do so, we shaped our course towards her, and after a weary pull, a very weary one, we came along side, and were, to our gratification, most hospitably received. She was manned by some half a dozen old salts, na- tive ones, and two or three gentlemanly officers, who cordially invited us to make fast »our boat, and ascend the deck, which we hastened to do. Then, ascertaining our famished and exhausted condition, they immediately gave us each a glass of excellent aguadiente and a roll of white bread, and at the same time ordered the cook to prepare an ample repast of rice, beef, etc., immediately. This we soon discussed with a great deal of satisfaction, and afterwards much recruited and refreshed, gave our kind entertainers a short history of our doings for the last kw weeks. These evidently raised us somewhat in their estimation, and drew from them the most enthusiastic expressions 01 sympathy and congratulation. In return, they told us the nature of the trade in which they were en- gaged, and their destination, which was some three or four hundred miles distant, and we concluded to accompany them thither, after which they would take us into their employment. At the same time they assured us that if we did not like to accept, or -decide at once upon this proposition, we were welcome to remain on board as long as we chose, provided we would occupy ourselves meanwhile, after a little repose, in repairing the rigging, which needed some knotting and splicing — a duty in which the na- tive sailors were somewhat deficient. As we were not desirous of returning to Guayaquil immediately, and had not decided how we should spend our time before doing so, we accepted these propositions with pleasure. A moderate breeze had sprung up soon after coming aboard, which not only imparted the desired headway to the ship, but also by its refreshing coolness, tempered the heat of the sun, thereby making our reclining positions upon the deck particularly agreeable. While thus gliding pleasantly along, we had for some time observed the Captain and Mate examining with much attention a boat full of men, which had kept on some two or three hours the same course as ourselves, and was gradually gaining upon us. She had first appeared upon rounding a point of land, in the same direction as Tombez, which led us to think that it might be the party which had started in pursuit of us the day before, and this suspicion was strength- ened by observing, with the aid of a spy-glass, the glittering of arms, which were distinctly visible in the boat, now only four or five miles distant. Here was another disagreeable turn in our affairs, and as the Captain of the schooner disliked the idea of being involved with the govermental officials in any way, and we had no desire to be overtaken by a party of 54 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. ^ armed men, as we inevitably should be by remaining aboard, we thought k best to depart as quickly as possible. Therefore, after excepting a small amount of provisions, and receiving directions as to the locality of a village on Puna, were we might obtain supplies in the morning, we shoved off. Having been much refreshed by our repose during the day, we were in excellent spirits and condition, and notwithstanding our sail was filled by the freshening breeze, we ran out our long oars, and for some time pulled like young lions. We were then near the outermost extremity of the Island of Puna, which is some thirty miles in length, and fifteen from the main land, which was therefore about forty miles distant. Keeping close into the land, we soon lost sight of our pursuers, and continuing to pull smartly for a few hours, saw no more of them. We subsequently concluded that our conjec- tures were correct, as to the party who had pursued us, and that after hav- ing chased us as far as the Island of Puna, they had given up the pursuit in despair, with a still higher opinion of our daring exploits, which had by this time gained us quite a reputation between Guayaquil and Tombez. We continued along the island, in the direction of the main land, until night fall, by which time we were within five or six miles of the village we li'ad been directed to, but preferring to visit it by daylight in the morning, we concluded to come to anchor in the usual way, by sticking an oar into the bottom where the water v/as shallow, and pass the night in the boat, to the narrow quarters of which we had by this time become quite accustomed. Before going to sleep, however, we held a lengthy consultation as ta our future action. As the ship had not yet left the coast for good, we did not wish to run the risk of being captured and sent aboard before she had done so ; but having finally departed, there would be no objection to our ■ boldly presenting ourselves in Guayaquil, whence we might depart in other vessels. At the same time it was an object for us to cruise or remain in some land of plenty, from which we might procure the means of subsistence. Therefore the following plan was adopted, as one that would favor all these considerations, provided that nothing unforeseen should happen which we might not overcome. It was this ; the mouth of Guayaquil river was twenty- five miles distant, and we determined after procuring some supplies at the village near at hand, in the morning, to pull for it, and remain near its mouth until night should come on. Then under cover of its gloomy shades, we would, by keeping the opposite side of the river, pass the armed guard- boats which had once interrupted our progress, and finally the city of Guayaquil, which was some forty nailes distant. Having accomplished this much, we would then penetrate into the interior of the country, and after remaining a suitable length of time for our ship to depart from the coast, return to the city of Guayaquil, This plan it will be perceived, was not deficient in boldness, while it afforded ample scope for incident. By it we thought to accomplish all our business designs, and at the same time, enjoy the delightful country and delicious fruits of the interior of Ecuador, concerning which, the glowing accounts we had heard, had excited our curiosity to the highest degree. • A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 55 And in fact, we carried the affair through, the incidents and results of which we will forthwith relate. The sun arose the next morning, bright and glorious, and having passed a tranquil night, we bestirred ourselves at early dawn. Our ablutions were soon performed, and putting every thing in the boat in order, we started for the village, where we soon arrived, before half the inhabitants were out of their beds or hammocks. It was pleasant and tastily ornamented, and shaded with beautiful trees, containing perhaps about a thousand inhabitants, who evinced much curiosity at our arrival. Leaving the boat in charge of the rest, two or three of us visited the nearest baker's establishment, and after procuring a small supply of delicious bread, returned to the boat. But just as we were preparing to leave, and were congratulating ourselves upon hav- ing met with no interruption, a couple of petty officers arrived from the Alcalde of the place, who desired us to present ourselves before him. But not fancying a detention, and perceiving that the messengers were few and unarmed, we surprised them and the gaping crowd, who stood around, by our audacity in politely requesting them to pay a visit to his satanic majesty, and at the same time, shoving off without ceremony, on our way to the mouth of the Guayaquil river, some fifteen or twenty miles distant. We soon began to feel, in our progress, the influence of the rapid cur- rent which sets up and down this noble river, at each rise and fall of the tide in the Pacific ocean. To one unacquainted with the phenomena of tides, the idea of the waters of a river flowing up stream, may seem at firs* singular, if not impossible ; but if it is considered that the stream is at a cer- tain depth when the tide is low, then if the waters of the ocean rise some fifteen or twenty feet at jts mouth, of course there is nothing to prevent the briny flood from rushing up the inlet, or channel, formed by the waters of the stream, with irresistible impetuosity, thereby filling the banks for a very long distance into the interior with salt water, and the accumulated contents of the stream^ . Then at the turn of the tide, all this vast body of water rushes back to the ocean, with still greater violence than it ascended. After pulling until nine or ten o'clock, the tide turned against us, and having plenty of time, we concluded not to contend against it ; seeing a craft of a few tons burden anchored a short distance from us, for the same reason, we pulled along side and made fast. To our surprise and gratification, the craft was loaded entirely with large and excellent oysters, and we lost no time in making a bargain for quite a number of the delicious bivalves, which Florence himself might well envy us the possession of. They were not only very large, being nearly all from ten to fifteen inches in length, but also very cheap, as we procured them at the rate of twenty-four for a medio, or six and a quarter cents. After hav- ing satisfied our appetites, we passed our time in indolent repose until — the- next chapter. CHAPTER IX. Enter Guayaquil River — English Barque — Repair the Boat — Hard Night's Work — Alligator Dangers — Pass the City Unperceived — Go into the Interior — Night in the Boat — Description of Scenery — Fruits — Monkeys — Pigs — Parrots, etc. — Decide to Return — Various Plans — Enter the City — Surprise — Put in Irons. The tide turned in our favor some time after noon, and resuming our oars, we quickly gained the mouth of the river. Perceiving an English barque likewise bound up, we hailed her, and readily receiving permission from the officer of the deck to go aboard, we were soon engaged in an eager conver- sation with the crew, who had but just arrived upon the coast. We relish- ed exceedingly, too, some hard biscuit and salt junk which we had former- ly been accustomed to, but of late deprived of. But these agreeable occu- pations of eating and talking were soon interrupted by a custofn-house officer, who was aboard, and having charge of the ship, thought it a fine op- portunity to display his consequence. The generous tars, however, as we we were leaving the side, insisted upon sharing half their dinner with, us, which was just being served up, and exchanging farewells for a time, we pulled for the river's bank. Selecting an open space, where the grassy banl* gradually sloped to the water's edge, we hauled our boat up high and dry for the purpose of repair- ing her, as she by this time leaked badly, and kept one person almost con- stantly employed in baling. Then turning her oottom upwards, we endea- vored to stop the leaks by caulking her with beeswax and larapwick instead of pitch and oakum. After tinkering her to our satisfaction, we reposed under the shade of the neiffhborins trees until about five o'clock, not wishing to progress as far as the guard boats until after dark. Then, after discuss- ing, with much pleasure, the provisions we had procured from the English barque, we commenced the laborious and never-to-be-forgotten task of the night. Fortunately for us daylight was succeeded by a^dark and cloudy night. We started soon after five o'clock, and favored by the tide, made rapid progress for several hours, and succeeded in passing the guard-boats with- out being discovered. But some little time before midnight, the tide turned against us, and then our work began. ' The current of the river, when it is discharging its accumulated waters, also swollen by the immense oody of water that has been for some time rushing in from the ocean, rushes out with a velocity of not less than seven miles an hour, and, therefore, we could not make much actual progress, having already been rowing without intermission for the last five or six hours. We would gladly have stopped awhile to rest our wearied and aching A ceui.se in a whale boat. 57 iimbs ; but we could not stop the boat without actually landing among the dense and almost impenetrable forest which grew close to the water's edge ; arid this we considered too dangerous on account of the alligators which everywhere abound. For upon being alarmed they always rush instinctively to the water ; and it sometimes happens that being thus disturbed in a dark night, the unwieldy monsters, blindly rushing to the river, come in contact with the boat or canoe, destroying -it, and perhaps endangering the lives of the persons who are aboard. Such a risk as this we were unwilling to run, not so much on account of the danger of personal injury, as of regard for the boat, the loss of which would upset all our plans, and subject us to a great deal of trouble and inconvenience. There was no other way, therefore, for us to do than to pull without intermission, and our almost insupportable fatigue may be easier imagined than described. More than one of us actually fell asleep while rowing, and we can easier state than explain the fact, that we mostly continued to pull in the meantime without ceasing. Indeed the writer, who pulled the after oar, and gave the stroke for the rest to follow, had one or two quite lengthy dreams before recovering himself, and yet did not miss a single stroke either while thus insensible to all around, or upon awaking. The night wore slowly and painfully away, and yet but too quickly, considering the slow progress we made against the rapid current. Some- times in passing a bend in the stream, we would actually pull for ten minutes at a time without gaining a foot, and then progress only by almost superhu- man exertions. We were tormented too, in the meantime, by our fears lest we might not be able to pass the city before daylight, as if we did not we should inevitably be arrested and get into difficulty. But at last we came in sight of Guayaquil, and just after the clouds had, much to our dissatis- faction, cleared away before the rising moon, which was at the full, and shone brightly. Nothing could be more beautiful than the calm loveliness of the scene, which took in the pure white buildings of the city, the distant hills, and the surrounding country, open and beautifully ornamented with lofty palms. But we had too much to think of to enjoy this prospect, in which there were so many features, fraught with danger to ourselves, and creeping along the bank of the river opposite to the city, which was here nearly two miles wide, we pulled away as silently as possible, concealed by the long shadows of the lofty trees. But though we were not perceived, every thing around was distinctly visible to us, ev^en to the figures of the watchmen in the city as they paced their round, and whose cries came over the water with startling distinctness. Wo most of all dreaded the sharp look out vv^hich we knew was kept aboard the naval steamer anchored in the stream at a little distance from the city, and just as we were opposite to her we heard her strike " six bells," as distinctly as if we had been aboard. The sound found an echo in our inmost hearts, but we were not discovered, and after being for two hours in sight of the city it faded from our view just as the day was breaking in the East. Then, almost dead with fatigue, we hastily sought a secluded spot, and abandoned ourselves to repose. , 58 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. We resumed our oars sometime In the afternoon, and after pulling up the river for a little while stopped at a country house closely surrounded by a plantation of sugar, and endeavored to procure some provisions. But to our surprise we were unable to obtain any thing except some enormous stalks of sugar cane, which we purchased for less than a penny a piece. They were some seven or eight feet in length, and the coarsest kind which is generally used for the manufacture of sugar, &c. There are many finer kinds however which are consumed in great quantities by the inhabitants generally, and are really, when perfectly ripe, very good. As night was now at hand, we sought out a quiet and secluded spot where we enjoyed a comfortable night's rest, with the constant exception of the mosquitoes, which threatened to devour us bodily. The succeeding four or five days were passed in pulling up this beauti- ful river, or into its numerous tributaries, wherever fancy dictated ; and but little occurred to mar the pleasure afforded us by the innumerable beauties and luxuries of this fertile country. We were generally hospitably received and treated wherever we went ashore, but at some few hamlets, upon our refusing to gratify an impertinent curiosity, Stc, attempts were made to detain us. None of them succeeded, however, as we were determined to preserve our freedom at almost any sacrifice ; but we were more than once compelled to beat a hasty retreat to our boat, and sometimes smartly skir . mishing by the way, with sticks, stones, he. The natural beauties of the country entirely surpass our feeble powers of description. Dense forests, and shady groves, composed of every variety of trees, from those of enormous size, to the light and graceful palm, con- trasted finely with smiling fields, which were profusely ornamented with flowers of every hue. All kinds and descriptions of tropical plants and fruits, were every where spontaneously produced in the greatest pro- fusion. We particularly noticed every variety of peppers growing along the banks of the river and little inlets, as plentifully as whortleberries in Yankee land. These woods and trees, too, were full of life. Parroquets we had long ceased to notice, on account of their immense numbers ; but we were con- tinually surprised and delighted with the great variety of parrots and macaws, both wild and tame. They were of all sizes, some being no larger than a pigeon, while others were actually nearly as large as tiirkies. The plumage of the latter kind was generally most magnificent and gorgeous, comprising all the brightest and most brilliant colors, most fantastically combined upon a single bird. They are all very noisy, and some of them very good talkers ; are considered by the natives very good food, and large numbers of them may always be found in the markets. We must not forget to notice the monkeys, whose tricks and antics have caused us so many hearty laughs, and of which we saw great numbers, both in a wild and a domesticated state. Large troops of them were fre- quently seen in the trees along the river banks, gambolling, chattering, and gesticulating as we passed by. We cannot attempt an enumeration of the innumerable varieties of A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 59 most delicious furits, that every where abounded in the greatest profusion, and of which we obtained liberal quantities for a trifling price, both from the shore and passing canoes. Orange trees laden with their golden fruit, which was also profusely scattered over the ground, and the juicy and delicious cocoa-nut, were the most common kinSs. The latter fruit is eaten mostly when green, and in every stage of its formation. The meat is then of a consistency but little firmer than cream, and very sweet, while the milk is very grateful to the taste, and delicious. Rich plantains, and golden colored bananas, whicli we long to taste again, and which are staple articles of diet, are as much cheaper as they are more delicious, than turnips or pota- toes here. Pine-apples too, are produced and sent to market in extraordinary, and almost incredible quantities. Of the excellence of this, as well as some other tropical fruits, foreigners who have not tasted them ripe from the stem, can have but little idea from the comparatively diminutive and tasteless specimens which are picked while green for transportation. 'There we found them of a noble size, a foot or more in length, and about the same in diameter. The outside of a rich golden color, and almost bursting with its bright yellow meat, which showed itself at every crevice in the rind. Concerning the price of these, Sec, we shall perhaps speak, when we allude to the extensive market in Guayaquil city. In this universal abundance we were surprised at seeing so very few beef cattle in the country. Very few are used for the labors of the field by these indolent people, who mostly live from hand to mouth ; and but little meat, compared with the diet of our own country people, is consumed. Horses and jackasses, particularly the latter, are used a great deal for busi- ness or pleasure, and everywhere abound. Swine are also very numerous, perhaps, because they multiply so fast and require so little attention. We were much amused one day by observing the manner in which a country butcher was cutting up a large pig. The pig was suspended by his hind feet in the usual way, under a tree, and operations had been commenced by removing the entire skin with the wool on, which was hanging near, and the man was then engaged in cutting the flesh from the bones in long strips be- fore removing the "innards." As to the rest of his proceedings deponent saith not, as we had no time to stop longer. In spite of the many charms of our roving life, our unsentimental tars got tired of it before a week had passed, and began to long for salt beef and pork, a sailor's life, and congenial companions. Therefore, they determined one fine morning, to return instanter to Guayaquil, and see what fortune had in store for them, hoping for an opportunity to ship and be once more upon the open sea. We w^ere about a day's journey from the city, towards which we rapidly glided, impelled both by strong arms and the rushing stream. Meanwhile, an animated discussion as to the best mode of entering the city, and the best story to be told after we should arrive there in case we should be in- terrogated, was held. Concerning the latter, we soon concluded to tell the truth, though not the whole of it. As to the former, there was a greater dif- ference of opinion \ the majority at one time fearing lest we might be arrest- '60 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. ed for over-powering Allen, etc., thought it best to leave the boat some- where in the woods, and entering the city at different points under cover of the darkness, mingle with the numerous seamen ashore. But at length, after a long and exciting debate, which did not terminate before the city was in sight, the arguments and persuasions of one of the company prevailed, which was to the effect that we should pursue a bold, manly, and straight- forward course, as though we were ashamed of nothing we had done. Accordingly, soon after sunset, we pulled in front of the city, and along- side of the naval schooner which had formerly been our quarters, and with whose crew we were well acquainted. Immediately after going aboard we ' sent a message ashore to the captain of the port and the American consul, announcing our arrival, and stating that not having found our ship at Tom- bez, we had returned in order to have an opportunity of getting a ship, etc. Meanwhile, we did ample justice to some provisions that were liberally or- dered for us by the officers, and indulged in various speculations concerning the future. All doubts, however, were soon removed, by an order which was received by the Captain of the schooner, to the effect that we should be instantly put in irons, and guarded with the utmost vigilance. This was certainly disagreeable, as well as unexpected, but there was no help for it, and we were all soon firmly attached by our feet to a long and heavy bar of iron, which was fastened to the deck. And here we were obliged to pass the first night, protected from the heavy rain, which fell more than half the time, only by a tattered awning, and to the attacks of the clouds of mosquitoes, that came flying over the bows, every time that a floating mass of vegetation was impededin its progress by the vessel, and presented their bills to us with an insinuating pertinacity, that rivaled the most im- portunate of creditors. The next day we learnt, somewhat to our surprise, that we had been arrested on suspicion of having risen upon and killed or thrown overboard Allen and his guard, in whose custody we had previously left for Tombez. And, indeed, although not officially apprised of the grounds for our arrest, a little reflection brought some pretty strong ones to our minds. We remembered that angry threats to the same effect had been hastily made by some of the men, previous to our departure with Allen. Then, too, it seemed singular that neither he or his men had returned, or, that nothing should have been heard of them in so long a time, except from ourselves. CHfford, too, (who had left Tombez,) was missing, and the conjectures that there had been a contest in which he also had been killed, was somewhat confirmed by the appearance of the boat, which showed many marks of violence, and one or two holes in the side, that were supposed to have been made by balls from Allen's pistols. All this was done, as we have before related, by Clifford in his drunken frenzy, but the truths which we told seemed stranger than the fictions of the imaginations of other people, and we were therefore carefully guarded until additional evidence should be received. Here ends the cruise in the Whaleboat, in which we have pulled for the last time, and we shall now proceed to relate some of its immediate results to ourselves. CHAPTER X. Description of the Navy of Ecuador — Provisional Allowance — Fleas, Cockroaches, &c. — Their Manners and Customs — Voracity — Anecdotes — Bug Tactics of a Man of War — Pilfering — Go to the City — Soldiers Barrack's — Black Hole — Horrible Situation — Amusements — Removal to the Naval Steamer. It may not be amiss here to give a brief description of the large and exten- sive naval forces, of the puissant Republic of Ecuador, on all of which we were at one time or other confined, and which we shall therefore have occasion to refer to. The navy of Ecuador consists of two whole vessels, one of which is a small steamer, -some ninety or a hundred feet in length. This craft is a very respectable one in many respects, from the fact that the boat and steam engine are the products of American industry, and she is also com- manded by a Yankee captain, with Yankee engineers, firemen and boat- swain, she carries a twenty-four brass pounder at each end, and her whole complement of officers and men, including captain, lieutenant, midshipmen, engineers, firemen, boatswain and crew, may be rated at about twenty-five, of whom we shall speak more at length when we come to allude to our confinement on board. The other vessel is called a schooner, and carries one brass twenty-four pounder amidships, which has hardly been fired off within the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and it is much to be doubted as to whether it ever will be again, from the fact that it is strongly suspected such an explosion would cause the immediate dissolution of the whole concern. Some idea of the size of the vessel may be formed, from the fact that she is daily bailed out with a tin pot. She is hardly, we would think, more than thirty or forty feet from stem to stern, with a hold of between four and five feet in depth, and is manned by a captain, two heutenants, two mid- shipmen, a boatswain, cook, and from two to six apologies for sailors, as the case may be. For notwithstanding the liberal wages which are paid, and a bounty of a doubloon upon shipping for a year, the navy of Ecuador is generally in great want of men, and when they are obtained, more than one half of them prove to be diseased wretches, who have shipped in order that they may be supported, and sent to the military hospital the next day. The customary allowance throughout the Spanish Main for provisions to sailors, soldiers, prisoners, &c., is one real, or twelve and a half cents per diem, which is amply sufficient, considering the cheapness of almost all kinds of food. This amount we were also allowed by the government, and the same amount by the American consul, so that as to provisions we fared well, four small rolls of bread, and a tin pot full of excellent chocolate in the morning, and a soup composed of plantains, .beef, k,c., in the afternoon. 62 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. But in speaking of our accommodations aboard, we must not forget to allude to the annoyances we were subjected to, by the different varieties of insects which swarmed about the craft, in incredible numbers. In fact, as in most tropical climates, all kinds of vermin everywliere abound. In attempting to class the most prominent varieties, we should say that the mosquitoes were most numerous, next fleas, then cockroaches, after them innumerable curs, which are sometimes said to rival the fleas in number, and lastly alligators, to say nothing of all kinds of snakes and innumerable intermediate varieties of reptiles. The two kinds of creeping ones we were most troubled with, were black ants and cockroaches, which infest all old buildings, or old vessels along the coast. The ants were visible during the day, and the cockroaches made night hideous by their attacks under cover of the darkness ; this division into two watches, the men used to declare, was the result of a regular under- standing or agreement, in order that each might have plenty of room when they went aboard. The former kind swarmed in every crack in the vessel, and every crevice on the deck might be traced by the black lines of busy insects, which were continually running in and out of them during the day. Con- sequently, nothing eatable, especially, could be set down any where with- out being immediately covered with a crawling swarm, which also prevented our reclining upon deck with any comfort, as their rapid crawling upon our bodies was any thing but agreeable, to say nothing of occasional bites of flesh, with which the cannibals would regale themselves. We could not but be amazed at first, to observe how completely the denizens of the little craft had become accustomed to the insect ; the black cook particularly, who never did more than give any ai'ticle of diet a hasty shake, before thrusting it into one of his numerous black pots. The effect of this was more perceptible in our chocolate, from the fact that the color of the various lumps of sugar which he soused in was undistinguishable beneath its sable covering. We gradually became accustomed to them, however, and considered it a matter of course to skim off the greater part, at least some two or three spoonfuls, from our chocolate, before swallowing it ; we wer-e always more or less puzzled though, to extract any of them from the soup, as they were so thoroughly interminged with the other in^edients. But numerous as were the ants, there was still room for innumerable cockroaches, which in size at least, surpassed all our previous ideas, as to what this description of vermin could attain to. They were from one quar- ter of an inch, to some three or four inches in length, and as they advanced in life assumed a yellowish-whity-browny-greyish color. As opposed to the ants, which stood watch during the day, they crawled over every thing and every body at night, particularly our faces, their favorite mode of 'attacking, which was by dropping upon them from overhead, and thus, not unfrequently, awaking us from our slumbers, or else giving rise to hideous and agonising dreams of contests with indescribable and fantastic monsters, or of torments similar to those inflicted upon ancient martyrs, from which we A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 03 would awake to the hardly less troublesome realities of fleas and ants hopping, crawling, and nipping under our garments, with not a few gigan- tic cockroaches dragging their cold bodies slowly over our faces and bosoms, and blood thirsty mosquitoes settling upon almost every other portion of our skin which was unoccupied. The remembrance of those horrible nights, which were for the most part sleepless, makes us even now shudder, varied only, as they were, by occasional volleys of curses from the men, upon all our persecutors, both human and insectual, if we may coin a word. Marvelous stories are told of the strength and voracity of these cock- roaches. To our personal knowledge, they will penetrate the hardest kinds of wood with their fangs, and it is gravely asserted by the natives, that experiments having frequently been tried to that effect, they will, if confined with a rasor blade, eat off its edge in order to appease their hunger; while there are plenty of witnesses to the fact, of three or four of them being able to surround and overcome a mouse, and then masticate him upon the spot. The only remedy or preventative adopted against these vermin in the powerful navy of Ecuador, was one which affords a good illustration of the character and business habits of the people generally, and the governmental officers in particular. At the regular muster every morning, when the whole crew were drawn up in a formidable line of about ten feet in length upon deck, every man was required to produce four dead cockroaches, and in default of a compliance with this requisition, as many blows were in- flicted with a rattan upon the hand as there were bugs wanting to fill up the regular number. These " bug tactics," in addition to the duty of pulling the officers to and from the shore every hour or two, constitutes almost the entire employ- ment of the men. The officers spent half their time ashore, and the other half lounging in their hammocks under an awning which was stretched over the deck of the vessel. To the gallant midshipmen also belonged the duty of purchasing the provisions for the schooner every morning from the market, thereby giving them an opportunity to eke out their own pay by pilfering from the daily sum which was entrusted to their charge for that purpose. This, however, was not considered particularly ungentlemanly or atrocious by their superiors ; and only when their offence was more glar- ing than ordinary, were they punished by being sent up to the mast head, whence they might enjoy the opportunity of taking a good view of the sur- rounding town and country, and at the same time be a good illustration of the national morals and principles under a burning sun. From the limited accommodations aboard ^e craft for the regular crew, there was of course but little room for us below when we were unconfined, and no place large enough for us when attached, as we were every night, to a long and single bar, which was therefore fastened to the deck. This confinement, which was sufficiently disagreeable, on account of the heat of the weather and the clouds of mosquitoes which flew over the bows every time a floating mass of vegetable matter in the river was obstructed in its progress by the vessel, was rendered absolutely intolerable by the pouriiig Q4 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. rain which descended in a perfect deluge the greater part of every night, and from which we were protected only by a ragged awning, which was no pro- tection at all, so that we were obliged to lie in the little pools of water on the deck all night, and drenched to the skin. Irritated, therefore, by such treatment, which we felt sure our consul was ignorant of, we sent a message to him describing our situation ; and ac- cordingly soon heard in reply, that we should be removed from our narrow quarters to the city. We therefore obeyed with pleasure the order that we received the next day to collect our clothes, etc., and proceed to the shore. We were soon on the wharf, and under charge of a corporal's guard pro- ceeded to our future place of residence, gazing at the new and unusual sights which we met at every step in the city we had so often viewed from a distance, but had never traversed before, and speculating by the way as to the kind of place we were going to. We were not long in doubt. There were some seven thousand troops in the city at the time, and we were soon ushered into a guard-room belonging to their numerous barracks : and reposing upon two or three guns at one end of the apartment, we took an observation of the buildings, etc., within sight, while we awaited direc- tions as to our particular destination. The barracks we were in were located in the suburbs of the city, and built in a quadrangular form, enclosing a court oi* yard about eighty or a hundred feet square. The buildings were large and three stories high, ap- parently filled with soldiers, and not only rather ancient, but extremely dirty. This was partly owing to the rainy season just then at its height, which rendered all the unpaved streets almost impassable with mud, and the court-yard above named resembled an immense hog-pen more than any- thing else. The room we were in at the time we are speaking of was about forty by sixty feet, and empty with the exception of two or three rows- of muskets, some gun handspikes, etc. There was also a cot in it at night, which was occupied by the commanding officer on guard. But what most concerned us, there v/as an apartment walled off from one side of the room; it was long and narrow, being about eighteen feet by seven, built with an eye to strength, and lighted and ventilated only through the heavy gratings of the door. Through these we perceived several black, half naked, filthy looking wretches, hardly distinguishable from the black darkness behind them, v/ho were peering at us, and amusing themselves by their blackguard- ism concerning us. None of us took any notice of them, however, except Lawrence, who heedlessly replied to them, for which he was checked by the men for thus demeaning himself and us. But just then the corporal, who had escorted us from the wharf came in, and unlocking the door of this '- Black Hole," to our consternation and horror, ordered us to go into the vile dungeon. At first we could not believe him in earnest, and then assured of the hideous reality, would have resisted. But the bayonets of the guard, which were quickly levelled at us, admonished us as to the best course to pursue, and we despondingly entered the dark and filthy receptacle, from which those already inside were not removed upon our arrival ; and the door being A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 63* locked upon us, a guard was stationed before it, night and day, for the ten days in which we remained. We found the room was used as a place of confinement for drunken and disorderly soldiers, and to add to our discomfort, five more men were brought in at night, making seventeen in all. We shall never forget the horrors of that long and weary night. Let it be remembered that the weather out of doors was hot and sultry to the last degree, while the almost constant rain made every thing damp and sticky ; the room we were in too, was enclosed within another, and there being no chance for a draft of air, the only air then, which we could get, being what we could inhale through the gratings of the door, we came rather nearer suffocation than we cared, while covered with perspiration, and attacked by legions of fleas, that were generated by the filth of the department, ever minute seemed an hour, and every hour a day. And here we were confined for ten days, without being allowed to step out, except upon occasions of necessity, when we were followed by a soldier with a musket. The first night turned out to be the worst, however, as there were no more than two or three confined with us at a time afterwards, which was owing perhaps to the earnest remonstrances we addressed to every officer that passed. We were also allowed on the second day, as a particuar favor, the liberty of sweeping out our cell, from which we brushed about a couple of bushels of filth, at least, one half of which was vermin, principally fleas. These insects of course swarmed in the greatest profusion, and in addition to them, we were constantly annoyed by thousands of the huge and disgusting cockroaches, which we have before described. So that on the whole, we were in really miserable quarters, and in removing from the naval schooner to the shore had jumped out of the fry- ing pan into the fire. This was not the fault of the American consul, whose humanity and generosity towards his countrymen obtains him the respect and esteem of all who know him, and which we shall hereafter have occasion to allude to. But the fact was, we were confined on an alleged crime against the government of the Republic, and, therefore, the Consul could only demand that we were well treated before being convicted of having done any thing worthy of punishment. It was on account of the deeds of daring which we had the reputation of having performed, perhaps, that we were given in charge of certain poisonous mushrooms, which spring up above the vulgar herd, and are called among themselves military officers. These ignorant heathens are generally entirely innocent of all noble and generous sentiment, and may be aptly compared to a vain dung-hill cock, without its courage. These despicable individuals, too, had assured the consul that we should be well treated, upon which he relied, while they plunged us into the dungeon aforesaid. Considering all these circumstances, therefore, it will readily be believed that we had but few sources of amusement. It was impossible, however, to keep down the spirits of the men bntirely, and they would occasionally break out in1jD a song and chorus that would make the whole building ring again, and sometimes feeling that we could be no worse off, they would gg A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. indulge in the most outrageous howling and whooping, to the consternation of the soldiers, and the evident chagrin of the officers, from whom we took no pains to conceal our opinion of their self-conceit and real worthlessness. Some of the time, too, we had an opportunity of raising our spirits by pouring spirits down our throats, thanks to one or two of our sentinels, who were clever fellows, and for a small sum brought us, among other kinds of fruit, an occasional cocoa-nut, which was ingeniously emptied of its natural contents and then filled with aguadiente. At the best, however, we were in a horrible place, which was beginning to affect our health as well as our spirits. But we had been confined many days before we were visited by some countrymen, who came to see us as soon as they found out where we were. Shocked, of course, at the situation we were in, they immediately made a representation of the matter to the consul, who at once took steps for our removal to a more suitable place, and we accordingly received with the greatest joy, directions to prepare to leave our dark and gloomy cell, and to go aboard the steamer which was lying in the stream. We were soon under weigh for our new destination, a descrip- tion of which, &c», we will postpone to another chapter. CHAPTER XL Description of the Steamer — Disturbance — Slow Work — A Chase at Night — Leisnre Time — Bathing — Bad Health — Sufferings of Foreigners from Mosquitoes — Want of Sleep — Thunder Storms — Night Scenes — Good News— Set at Liberty — First Sensations — American Consul — His Liberality — Life Ashore — Description of Guayaquil — Manners and Customs of the People, etc. Accordingly, we were soon quartered aboard the neat, perfectly clean, and well-regolated steamer, which seemed a palace compared to the dungeon we had left. Our irons, too, were dispensed with, and we enjoyed exceed- ingly the freedom of motion, of which we had been deprived so long a time. We were kept in custody aboard this craft for about a fortnight, and in the meantime nothing scarcely occurred worthy of particular notice. There was but one disturbance or difference of opinion while on board between ourselves and the officers, and this referred to our going to work with the rest of the hands. To be sure the work, as it was called, was nothing but boys' play to us, comparatively speaking, consisting merely of a few hours' work of grinding battle-axes, burnishing pikes, washing decks, etc. But then, while we were detained against our will, we felt under no moral obli- gation to work, and accordingly, absolutely refused to do anything. This ended in our being put in irons, with the assurance that we should remain there until we would consent to do as we were ordered. We lay stretched out on deck, therefore, in that position during the re- mainder of the day, and all that night. By that time, however, we began to get tired of our close quarters, which did not afford us room enough to' fight the mosquitoes to advantage, and we accordingly concluded to act on the same principle as the horse who allowed himself to be led to water, but' would not drink after he got there. We were, therefore, released on our declaring our willingness to do as we were ordered, and commenced again the work of brightening up sundry old muskets, axes, pikes, etc., which had been sought out for our especial benefit, and from the amount of rust on them looked as though they had been originally lost out of Noah's ark, and just recovered from the water. Pieces of brick were provided for the muskets, and a grindstone for the axes, but hours wore away and still there seemed as much iron-rust as ever. The man at the grindstone, which was a small one, turned exceedingly slow, and for every five minutes that he did so stopped to rest fifteen or twenty, while the person who was seated holding the axe upon the stone seemed very much disinclined to waste any of his strength, and by sunset had not quite finished the one he began upon in the morning. Then, too, the pieces of brick had marvellously little effect upon the° muskets, although they were gently rubbed upon them ever^ ^ A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. time an officer came forward. Things went on so for ttie second day also, mucii to the chagrin of the petty officers, who fretted about but could not help themselves. On that evening, however, the crew of the steamer suddenly received orders to get under weigh, and go in pursuit of a Chilian craft, which was reported to be cruising abbut the mouth of the river with hostile intentions. As the steamer was not much more than half manned, our services were ex- tremely valuable, and we were assured of the fact when one of the lieuten- ants came forward, and declaring his wishes that we should work " with a will," and do all we could, hinted that he should be obliged to us for so doing, and promised that grog should be furnished ad libitum. As the officer happened to be the one we had a preference for, and the men were gratified at being treated like men, they eagerly entered into the spirit of the chase, and throwing off all superfluous clothing, each strove to outdo the other, and performed prodigies of labor which not a little aston- ished the native crew and officers. We could not find the craft we were in search of, however, and the steamer returned to her moorings soon after midnight, after which, fatigued and exhausted, we were soon lost in slumber. But we saw no more of the rusty tools we had been at work upon before, and for the rest of our time aboard we did less than an hour's work a day. During this leisure time we enjoyed bathing in the large paddle wheels of the steamier, which having been made fast were motionless, and of course a small part of them was in the water. We found this bathing, too, ex- tremely beneficial to our health, as owing to the varied nature of our life for the last few weeks, at one time exposed, and at another closely confined, our blood had become very impure, which caused it to favor the accumula- tion of innumerable sores, which formed wherever the skin was broken, as by using friction upon mosquito bites, etc. These sores are very common among foreigners, and particularly sailors, who use no discretion in rubbing the blotches, which are caused by the poisonous bills of the detestable mos- quitoes. We trust we shall be pardoned for alluding so often to these in- tolerable insects, but we really know of no greater annoyance during the rainy season. Luckily, they almost entirely disappear with the rain, and for the succeeding nine months of dry weather none of any consequence are to be seen. But while they do abound, it is not at all unusual for the crews of foreign vessels to be rendered almost totally unfit for work, on account of the almost absolute impossibility of obtaining any rest at night. Indeed we did not actually average two hours sleep per night, all the time we were lying in the river. Next to being bitten by them, one receives the most forcible impressions of their numbers, by observing the large four* story white houses during a thunder storm or shower. The insects then seek the first place of shelter from the rain that they can find, and at such times, the fronts of these hoYises actually appear almost entirely black, and it is considered a matter of course for all the servants in every house to dis- lodge the insects by means of brooms, napkins, &;c., immediately after every shower. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Qg Some of these thunder storms at night, were exceedingly violent, sur- passing any thing of the kind we ever saw in any other part of the world, and at the same time presented scenes amid the pitchy darkness of the night, of the most startling sublimity and grandeur. We shall not attempt any far- ther description of them, than to beg the reader to imagine the scenery for miles around, revealed with startling distinctness every moment or two, by the dazzling light of the vivid lightning, which streamed over almost every part of the heavens at once, while the awful crashing of the thunder would frequently, for an hour at a time, resound over head, absolutely without interruption. • During such times a curious plfbnomena was frequently exhibited by the iron work of the steamer. Every piece of iron, from the lofty smoke pipes, to the smallest tools about the vessel, would be covered with a flame of a bright blue color, if we recollect aright. How it occurred that the steamer was never struck by any of the lightning bolts, which fell in such profusion around us, we cannot say, but We certainly expected it at times. But at last we, in common with many others, were relieved from the protracted suspense we had been subjected to, as to the proofs of the crime of murder, which, although we were of course innocent, had been preferred against us. News was brought to us by some friends, that one of the Span- iards who had accompanied us from Tombez, had arrived, and entirely cor- roborated our story. A few hours after we were ordered to prepare to leave the steamer, and having at length gained the wharf of the city, we were told without any preface, that we were free to go where we liked. Thus, at last, after so long a time, much of which had been passed amid painful privations, we had gained the object we had in view, when we left our ship at Tombez. But that seemed a very long time ago, and we had so long been harrassed by anxieties and captivity, that we could hardly comprehend that we were really free. We had before anticipated the exultation we should feel when we acquired our liberty, but now there was no boisterous rejoicing, or even any at all. We were certainly not displeased with our release, but standing there upon the wharf, we were com- pletely at a loss what to do. It seemed as though all connection between the past and the present had been dissolved, and we were upon an unknown ocean, without pilot or compass. We were in a strange city, surrounded by strange faces, destitute of sympathy, and now the bonds which had united us for so long a time, amid so many changing scenes, seemed stronger than ever, and no one of us entertained any plan which did not include his companions. While thus deliberating as to what course to pursue, we concluded, as we were entirely destitute of money, and ignorant of the city, that we would walk up to the Consul's, and state our case, trusting that he^would give us both assistance and advice. And we relied the more readily upon his doing so, not only on account of his well known liberality, but from the fact that he himself had deserted from a whale ship, several years before, and having remained in the country, had rapidly risen to his present honorable and wealthy position, being then about thirty years of age. 781) A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. He treated us with sternness at first, and severely reprimanded the course we had pursued since leaving the ship, while he at the same declared that his instructions would not allow of his advancing any money to us from the government funds. But he soon relaxed a little, and before the men departed, gave eacfh of them money sufficient to defray the expenses of a boarding-house for a week, and also advice as to the best course for them to pursue. In the preceding pages I, the writer, have said little or nothing, con- cerning my personal sufferings, arising from the state of my health, which was delicate *when I left the ship, and of course was not improved by the wanderings, and privations, heretofore ^oken of; and I allude to them now, only to make known the reason that induced me to apply to the Consul; for a ticket of admission to the military hospital. This he readily granted to me, and after parting for a time with my companions, I directed my steps to the large and extensive hospital, which is situated in the suburbs of the city. And my feelings and reflections, as I painfully toiled along, were not of the most agreeable or cheering description, for I knew that just at that period of the year, most of the foreigners who were taken sick, departed this life with marvelous celerity. At last I gained the portal, and having presented my ticket to the proper official, I was immediately directed to the appropriate ward. The buildings were very large, and contained cots jnd accommodations for many hundred persons, but there being so many thousand soldiers in the city, at the most sickly season of the year, it was crowded almost to suffocation, and the floors of the apartments almost entirely covered with mattresses. I was accommodated with a cot bed, and being very sick and most of the time in great pain, and surrounded entirely by strange and unsym- pathising faces, the time passed heavily enough. There was nothing very encouraging either, about the scanty medical attendance I was favored with. I' was merely looked upon by a very important looking individual, a Frenchman who did not condescend to speak to me, for about two seconds each day. But I had nothing to complain of as to a want of a sufficient quantity of medicine, for I was obliged to imbibe every day about a pint of the most awfully bitter liquid that ever was invented to torture a sick man. I grew rapidly worse for several days after entering, and one night I gave up all for lost, and resigned all expectations of ever seeing Yankee land ; but ray time had not yet come, and although the destroying angel visited the poor fellow in the cot next to mine, he passed over me, and I lived to leave the hospital about two weeks after entering it. I was not well though, by any means, but I had become so disgusted with the sickening scenes everywhere visible, that death in the open air seemed s^lmost preferable to a longer residence in such a place. It was late in the afternoon that I left the hospital, and with slow andi fpeble steps, shaped my course for the residence of the consul. I could not have been more kindly received, and as I would not comply with his advice, to return to the place I had just left, he. provided me a boarding-house, and. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 7J paid two weeks board in advance out of his own pocket, at the same time directing me to call upon him occasionally and report progress. This •liberal and disinterested treatment, I can never cease to remember with all the gratitude I am capable of, and should these pages ever be perused by him, I trust he will again accept my warmest acknowledgments for hiS; kindness. But I inwardly determined to make no further application for assistance after the fornight he had provided for expired, if work could possibly be obtained. Indeed there was not work enough going on among the few ships in the river, to employ one half of the sailors who were ashore, and iri, want of a ship or employment until they could obtain one. Fortunately fo^\ myself, however, I had become slightly acquainted with the Yankee engineers, belonging to the naval steamer, who had called upon me in the hospital antjr; expressed a warm interest in my welfare. And this one of them, who had a short time before established a blacksmith's shop in Guayaquil, demonstrated; by inviting me to work in the shop only as much as I was able, and he would support me whether I worked or not, until I could obtain a ship. Meanwhile, too, I had become acquainted with the master of the shop, who boarded in the same house with myself, and warmly seconded the first invitation, which I cordially and thankfully accepted. But not the least agreeable part of the affair was, that the blacksmith who had come out ia the same ship as myself, and left her at the same time, by land had joined the shop sometime before, so that I was really among friends. Of course I have neither time or space in which to describe minutely the life I led for the succeeding six weeks. I soon became initiated into the mysteries of blacksmithing, and could handle the heavy sledge in quite a workmanlike manner, but there was one annoyance I could not very well overcome, and that was the hot scales which occasionally lodged in my old shoes, and made me drop the hammer in order to obtain relief. There was, also, one thing which the good natured blacksmith himself could not get used to, and that was a way I had sometimes of hitting his tongs instead of the steel punch they held, with the sledge, thereby causing him many aches in his hands. Meanwhile, my health gradually improved, and not finding any ship that was homeward bound, or that I cared to go aboard of, I made the old blacksmith's shop my quarters during the daytime, and lodged in various places at night, most frequently, on the score of economy, upon a pile of soft lioards in the shop of a cooper with whom I was acquainted. I was not able to work more than half the time though, and some days not at all, when, from a foolish pride, I endeavored to avoid, if possible, receiving the assistance which was most willingly, though irregularly, tendered me, and; more than once retired to my downy couch without having eaten anything since the previous day. This was something of a contrast to the abun- dance and ease I had always enjoyed before commencing a sea-faring life ; and my reflections upon my lot were not rendered much more agreeable by the fact, that I even then did not lack for abundant means, but could not avail myself of them. ^•2 ' A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. As I continued to regain my strength, however, my spirits improved if iny circumstances did not, and in company with acquaintances, or in solitary strolls, passed many agreeable hours Of course it would be tedious and uninteresting to minutely describe the six or seven weeks I passed in Guaya- quil, so I will merely give such a -sketch of the city and its inhabitants, their manners and customs, etc., as my memory will enable me to do, and which I shall dwell on the more minutely, in order to convey a general idea of the character and economy of other cities in South An^erica. As we have before remarked, Guayaquil presents a beautiful appear- ance when viewed in front from the river. It is bounded both above and below by noble hills, around the base of which the river disappears, while the ground on which it is built is almost perfectly level, being merely a small part of a large plain which extends several miles back of 'the city. These plains, called pampas, which are often of great extent, are not un- frequent in South America, and are generally destitute of every species of vegetation, excepting a peculiar kind of grass, which is generally burnt up by the intense heat of the sun during the dry season of the year. That in the rear of the city was valuable only for pasturing the donkeys which are extensively used by the lower classes. Guayaquil contains some forty or fifty thousand inhabitants, and, there- fore, covers quite a large surface of ground, the more so because the houses are generally built with an eye to comfort in so sultry a climate, being large and airy, and varying from two to four stories in height. Some of these are very handsome structures, being almost invariably built with spacious bal- conies at every story, and in a large quadrangular form, enclosing an inner court of greater or less extent. The prevailing color, both inside and out, is a pure white, which at a little distance contrasts beautifully with the sur- rounding country. This effect, too, is heightened by the almost universal absence of glass in the windows, particularly in the upper stories, the place of which is supplied by curtains of the same color as the house; and so at- tentive are the people generally to the external cleanliness of their dwellings, that their municipal regulations do not allow of bituminous coal, or any other fuel which makes a dense smoke, to be burnt in the city, not even by blacksmiths or others whose business might render it necessary. The fuel most generally used for all purposes is charcoal, of which large quantities are brought in by the country people, and sold at a cheap rate. Speaking of fuel, reminds us that chimneys are very rarely, if ever, constructed in houses in any part of South America, on the west side at least. The natural warmth of the climate at all seasons of the year, of course renders a fire, for almost anything besides culinary operations, super- fluous, and the small quantity of charcoal necessary for this purpose is gen- erally burnt upon a pile of mason work in some room or corner of the house. . CHAPTER XII. Description of Guayaquil — Inhabitants — Complexion — No Prejudice — Trade — Wholesale and Retail — Handsome Stores — Mechanic Arts — National Incapacity — Stupid Preferences — Saw Mills — Immigration of Mechanics, &c., Encouraged — Inducements — Enterpising Yankee — Roman Catholic Religion — Immorality of the Priests of that Spiritual Religion — Indolence and Improvidence — Two Meals a Day — The Siesta — Amusements — Refresh- ments — Wines, &c. — Bull Fight — Music — Dislike of Foreigners — Reason for It — Jackasses — Vehicles — My Own Experience. The inhabitants of Guayaquil are mostly natives of the country, there being a smaller number of foreigners in proportion to its population, than in the other large cities upon the coast. The complexion of the people embraces every shade between the pure white, of unmixed Castilian blood, and the dark bronze, or coal black skin of the original population, before the country was discovered and settled by the Spaniards. That part of the population which is of unmixed Spanish blood, and which of course, is mostly comprised in the '' aristocracy," naturally pride themselves upon their descent, but still there is not much if any prejudice on account of color among the people, and a man generally I'anks accord- ing to his natural abilities and talents. In the army many of the superior officers are coal-black, and a greater number resemble mulattoes in their complexion, but this does not prevent their associating upon equal terms, either in their official capacity, or at social assemblies. Thei'e is quite a large foreign and domestic trade carried on at Guayaquil. A large extent of the surrounding country is supplied with all descriptions of foreign goods from the city, and immense quantities of the productions of the country are also exported. One very prominent article of the latter, is chocolate, which I particularly remember as having caused me many a back-ache, while handling the heavy bags from morning until night. Nearly, if not all, of the wholesale part of this trade is carried on by foreigners, mostly English and American. The natives of the country, generally, do not seem to have sufficient capacity or knowlege to carry on any kind of business, excepting upon the most simple and limited scale. They monopolise almost all of the petty retail business of the city, and are generally contented with a small stock of goods in a very small space. Some of the foreigners though, have a retail as well as a wholesale department to their establishment, and their stores often present a very large and rich assortment of goods. There is one block of buildings particularly, in the upper part of the city, which is built after a Yankee fashion, and contains twelve large and spacious stores, all of which are occupied by Americans. Walking along by these sometimes, and seeing dry goods, &,c., exposed in great pro- 74 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. fusion at the windows and entrances, as in New- York, I could almost forget that I was still an unwilling resident in a foreign land. But the most striking evidence of the national incapacity which we alluded to above, is furnished by the state of the mechanic arts. Almost all articles, whether intended for use or ornament, are manufactured in a very rude and simple manner, by the aid of the most rude and simple instru- ments. The tools and furniture of a native blacksmith, cooper, or capenter's shop is of the most clumsy, rude, and ridiculous description imaginable, and the numerous workmen employed, generally accomplish no more or better work, than would so many Yankee boys ten years of age. But in the manufacture of articles that can be made by hand, especially hats and hammocks, a great deal of taste and skill is displayed. Of the former, great quantities of the cheaper kind are made and exported, and are well known as Panama hats. Some are made of exceeding fineness, and it is nothing uncommon in the city to see hats offered for sale, the price of • which is forty dollars, or even more. 'The various kinds of hammocks which are so universally used, demand a particular notice. They are generally made of a kind of straw or vegeta- ble fibres, we are not certain which, worked into a pliable, very yielding, and at the same time, durable net-work. These adapt themselves as it were, to every position of the body, and for comfort and luxury they are unsurpassed' by any other contrivance for easily reposing in the world. They are made of all sizes, from five to twenty or more feet in length, holding one or more persons, and are often dyed with very beautiful colors. I have not a very distinct remembrance of the price of these articles, but I believe that a very good one of eight or ten feet in length, may be bought for two or three dollars. Singularly enough, many of the common ignorant people, especially those in the country, prefer to use the clumsy articles of native manufacture, to the more valuable and useful ones imported or made by foreign mechanics. Very iew, for instance, will prefer a serviceable Peekskill plough to the wooden crotch whicli has from time immemorial been used for rooting up the surface of the soil. And till within three or four years, all the lumber used in the country was sawed entirely by hand ; indeed the greater part of ail which is used at the present day, throughout the entire country of South America, is manufactured in the same laborious manner. This of course, causes it to command an enormous price, and every imaginable substitute to be used in its place, such as split canes, &ic. ; therefore, the construction of sawmills, wherever they have been erected, has always proved a very good speculation, and would be found equally sure and profitable in many places yet open to enterprising individuals. But by the more intelligent classes, the value and importance of the pro- ductions of American and English ingenuity and mechanical skill, is daily more sensibly felt and acknowledged, and therefore every encouragement. is held out by them, both in their private and official capacities, for the immigration of good mechanics, the introduction of tools and machinery^ and the dissemination of scientific knowledge. On this account, the most '"T CllUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 75 flattering inducements exist in many cities, upon the western coast, for me- chanics to seek employment there. Good workmen are always in demand, and such, whether blacksmiths, carpenters, or coopers, can readily obtain from two to four dollars per day, while their necessary expenses are very light ; but little clothing, and that mostly cotton, being required, and the best of board obtainable for two or three dollars per week. I do not by these remarks, hold out any false inducements, as I was extensively ac- quainted with that class of people, and particularly remember a couple of blacksmiths, each about twenty-one years of age, from my own native State, who obtained permanent situations, either in Callao or Valparaiso, 1 forget which, where their wages were four dollars per day. There are indeed many mechanics upon the western coast of South America, but unfortunately, ninety-nine out of a hundred of them are addicted to habits of dissipation, and spend their wages as fast as they earn them. Therefore a sober man^ who could gain the confidence and respect of the people, among whom he located, would possess advantages over all others. At the time of which we are speaking, there were about half a dozen blacksmiths', carpenters' and coopers' shops in Guayaquil, all well patronisedj and very profitable. The only thing almost, in the shape of machinery, was a saw-mill worked by Jackasses, beside one which was being erected by an American, to be worked with steam power. The latter individual, who was a ship carpenter by trade, and at the same time possessed of business talent, and temperate habits, first came to Guayaquil, about three and a half years previous to our arrival, and being possessed of nothing but his tool chest, was so poor as to be obliged to borrow money to pay for his first weeks^ board. At the time we saw him, he was driving a heavy business, princi- pally in ship building, and was estimated to be worth, at least, one hundred thousand dollars. The prevailing religion of the country, is the Roman Catholic, which here as every where else, is powerful in proportion to the ignorance of its' superstitious devotees. I shall of course, leave the discussion of the merits or demerits of this phase of heathenism, to theologians of other de- nominations, and therefore only briefly notice this part of my subject. The ghostly Fathers, of course, have great influence in the affairs of state, and one result is equally annoying and glaring, especially to foreigners. I allude to the compulsory observance of all the fast or feast days of the church, by a complete abstinence from all kinds of employment, under pen- alty of a heavy fine. As there are some one or two hundred such days in the year, such laws are a great hindrance to all people who are industriously disposed, but unfortunately these constitute but a small part of the people, and they but too well accord with the national indolence of character. Little credit is reflected upon the Catholic Religion, by the moral qual- ities of its devotees and priests. Of the latter particularly, the least that is said, the better it is for their reputation. Being prohibited from marrying, they are notorious libertines, and almost universally employ young and pretty house keepers. Neither do they hesitate to join in any common amuse- ment, and are particularly fond of cockfighting. This they, as is the general JQ A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. custom, indulge in particularly on Sundays, when they may be seen in great numbers, as soon as " High Mass " is over, with the tails of their gowns under one arm, actively engaged with their favorite birds. Although nominally republicans, the distinction between the lower and upper, or poor and rich classes, is much more strongly defined than in these United States, and nearly or quite all the authority of the state, is centered in the hands of the aristocracy. One of the most prominent features of the national character; is indo- lence, and this is most strongly exhibited by the lower or poorer classes. As a general thing they have but little anxiety about the future, and are content to live from hand to mouth, and work only enough to provide for their present necessities. And this indolence is, in fact, if not owing to it, at least encouraged by the great abundance and cheapness of various arti- cles of diet at all seasons of the year. A stout laborer can often earn in Guayaquil from one half to a dollar and a half per diem, which latter price is frequently paid by ships lying at anchor, and at the same time, buy plan- tains enough to subsist upon for a whole week, for about twelve and a half cents. As one goes farther south, however, wages are much lower, and in Chili, stouter and better men never demand more than three reals, (thirty- seven and a half cents,) per day. Unlike most civilised people who eat three meals a day, the inhabitants of South America never eat more than two. The morning meal or break- fast is taken about eight or nine o'clock, and the other in the afternoon aboiit three. The people are generally very temperate in their habits, and consume but little animal food. Of vegetables and fruits the large and well-filled markets present an almost inconceivable variety, much too nu- merous for me to particularize. Between the morning and evening meal it is customary, as in all tropi- cal climates, to take a siesta of an hour or two during the hottest part of the day, and these are generally enjoyed in the luxurious hammocks we have before alluded to. Indeed, many people pass the greater part of their lives in these temptations to indolence. As to amusements, there are none that we know of which are more of a public nature than the social gatherings, such as balls, fandangoes, etc., which are not unfrequent, and where music and dancing constitute the prin- cipal part of the evening's entertainments. The most common, and at the same time, simple recreation, is that which is generally enjoyed every eve- ning, when almost the entire population of the city seems to turn out of doors to enjoy the refreshing coolness of the breeze which invariably springs up about nightfall. The grand and magnificent promenade in front of the city, which we have before described, then presents a very gay and brilliant ap- pearance from end to end, with its unbroken row of brilliantly lighted shops on one side, and the numerous throng moving in all directions or listlessly reclining upon the many seats which are provided for the accommodation of the public. The animation and brilhancy of the scene is also very much heightened by the numberless dealers in cakes, confectionary, fruits, or cooling and de- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 77 licious drinks, who expose their commodities for sale in all directions, either upon cloths spread upon the ground, or oftener yet upon little tables clothed in white, and at the same time continually invite the attention of passers-by to their stock in trade. On Sunday evenings, particularly, the whole population seems to be celebrating some gay festival, and every fam- ily or individual who ever sell anything eatable or drinkable, boarding- house keepers particularly, vie with each other in furnishing a table of a greater or lesser size with the most tempting variety that their means will allow. Wine and spirituous liquors, particularly aguadiente, are both plentiful and cheap, and universally drank ; still the people are generally temperate in their potations, and there is not much actual intoxication among the na- tive population, not one-tenth as much, indeed, as there is among foreign residents and travellers, in proportion to their numbers. The wine which is made in the country is pretty good, some very fine, and the best is sold for about twenty -five cents a bottle in Guayaquil at retail ; but farther south, as iu' Chili, wine is better, more abundant, and much cheaper, never more than a medio, or six and a quarter cents per bottle. The old Spanish tastes and customs still display themselves, though at rare intervals, in an occasional bull fight. There was but one in Guayaquil while I was there, and that I had not an opportunity of witnessing, as it took place during the period of my confinement aboard the steamer lying in the river. It created a great sensation in the city during the day, and I could see immense crowds flocking to the exhibition, but from the reports concerning it, it was nothing more than a dastardly murder of two or three spiritless bulls after they had been tormented into a feeble rage. While speaking of amusements, we must not forget to mention the large and excellent military band, numbering, fifty performers, which played for an hour or two, upon two evenings in the week, before the Governor's house, which overlooked the river. They were mostly native musicians^ and performed very much to the satisfaction of an immense crowd, which invariably attended upon such occasions. The feelings or sentiments entertained by the inhabitants of Guaya- quil, and other cities along the coast, towards foreigners, particularly Eng- lish and American, are not of the most friendly or cordial description. And indeed, although national pride inclines us to wish and say otherwise, we cannot help considering this dislike, so generally felt and expressed, as fairly warranted by the disgraceful conduct of the foreigners generally, with whom they are acquainted. These are of course a very poor specimen of the citizens of the country which gave them birth, being composed almost en- tirely of needy adventurers, and seafaring men, who arrogate to themselves a national superiority, and despising the people they are among, are restrained by public opinion, from resorting to the most knavish and sordid arts to accumulate wealth, or indulging in all kinds of lustful excess. Sailors particularly, almost invariably get beastly drunk as soon as they go ashore^ and while they remain there, indulge as far as the law allows, in the most brutish excesses. No wonder that such a strong contrast to the temperate '^9 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. and abstemious habits of the natives, should inspire the latter with a con- temptous disgust for all foreigners, and cause them to indiscriminately apply to them the appellation of " boorah " or jackass, or if they are driving one of these animals any where within hearing of a foreigner, they delight to call him " Englesi " or Englishman, and at the same time belabor him soundly "with a club. These donkeys stand almost as much bearing as if they were construc- ted of the hardest kind of wood ; indeed they exhibit little more sense of feeling or animation, than if they really were so, and exhibit more spirit in standing stock still, and refusing to budge an inch, than they do in any other way. They are very extensively used by the poorer classes, as they cost but very few dollars, and can be kept without any expense, upon the common lands about the city. Speaking of beasts of burden reminds us that there were but very few vehicles, and these of the most clumsy and creaking description, in com- mon use. Articles of merchandize are most generally transported about the country, upon the backs of donkeys, mules or horses. Oxen too are used, as for dragging timber, &c., but not in very great numbers ; the national stupidity is strikingly manifested in their mode of working them, which is done simply by attaching ropes to their horns ; and indeed the country people absolutely refuse to use a yoke, in the Yankee fashion, although it is so clearly superior. I will now, in the next chapter, return to our Own experience, during some seven or eight months that I remained upon the coast, and allude to such parts of it as will throw some light upon various other subjects, life aapon the coast, &;c., he. CHAPTER XIII. Longings for Home — Treachery — Whalers — P. S. N. Co. — Steamships " Peru " and " Chili " — • Anxiety — Disappointment — Try Again — Succeed — Boatswain — English Stokers — Hospi- tality — Build, Officers, Crew, &c., of the Steamer — Duties — "Dingy Work" — Steward — 3o Ashore — Sailors' Generosity — Cogitations and Conclusions — Ship for Three Months — Atmospheric Phenomena — Extraordinary Exploit. Both before and after leaving the ship in which I had left my native land, I desired above all other considerations, to return home as quickly as possible, and there were not lacking good and sufficient causes for this desire. My experience so far had disgusted me with a seafaring life, principally on account of being obliged to live in such close companionship with the coarse and filthy individuals who are almost invariably met with in every ship's forecastle ; and I also strongly desired to exchange my present destitution for comparative wealth among friends and relations, whose society I had never so highly valued before. The galling poverty to which I was subjected after leaving the hospital, was very much owing to the treacherous conduct of an individual whom I had trusted, the more readily because he was a countryman. I had fre- quently seen him, and been visited by him while in custody, and after I had determined to go to the hospital, I left quite a valuable stock of clothes in his charge, which I did not wish to take there with me, as knowing that they would infallibly be stolen if I did so. But I might as well have done so, for after coming out I found that I could obtain nothing from " Jim " but my clothes-bag, and the bible which I had taken with me when leaving the ship ; he declared that he knew nothing of the remainder, they had been pilfered from him, etc., so that I had no remedy ; but my suspicions of him were confirmed by falling in with the greater part of my property some time afterwards, among the crew of the steamer that I went aboard of, and to whom he had sold them, I soon made up my mind after leaving the hospital, that there would be but a small chance for some time to come, of my being able to ship on board a craft bound in the direction I preferred. So that I concluded to await the arrival of one of the steamers which ply up and down the coast, and then obtain leave to work my passage to some port farther south, where I could have a choice of the large number of vessels continually stopping for a few days, to lay in supplies of provisions sufficient to last them around Cape Horn, The greater part of these vessels are whalers, and I especially desired go A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. to return home in one of them, principally on account of my feeble health ; for owing to the greater number of hands which they carry than merchant- men, the work would be much lighter and the voyage pleasanter, because little more is required of the hands when homeward bound, than is necessary to work the ship. But before I was able to carry out these designs, much more time elapsed than I anticipated, as will be seen. The steamers I alluded to above, are two in number, named the " Peru " and " Chili," each being about eight hundred tons burden, and owned by the " Pacific Steam Navigation Company." This company owes its origin to the persevering and indefatigable exertions of Mr. Wheelwright, whose name is familiar to commercial men. This gentleman is a native of the United States, and being strongly impressed with the benefits which would result from the designs he conceived of employing steam vessels upon the western coast of South America, he laid his plans and propositions before his countrymen in New- York, sometime in the year 1839, for their accep- tance. Singularly enough, they were not appoved of, and he then went directly to London where he met with ample encouragement, which resulted in the formation of the P. S. N. Co., and the construction of the above named vessels in the London docks, whence they sailed for the Pacific. At the time we are speaking of, they ran between the ports of Guaya- quil, in the Republic of Ecuador, and Valparaiso, (or sometimes as far as . Talcahuana,) in the Republic of Chili, and stopping at all the intermediate places of any note, some twenty in number. The time consumed in one of these trips, which was over two thousand miles in length, was between three and four weeks. And as I before remarked, it was in one of these that I hoped to be allowed to work my passage farther south. This vessel was expected about the first of April, but owing to some unusual delay, she did not arrive until the last of the month. Meanwhile, as the time drew near, my anxiety decreased. I knew that there were many stouter and healthier men than myself, (indeed I was only a boy,) who wished to do the same thing, and it was almost impossible that all would be received. But it was the only chance there was of my leaving Guayaquil, or meeting with a homeward bound ship for some time, and I could only hope for the best. At last, however^ the huge black monster came creeping steadily up the river against the rapid current, and having anchored in front of the city, commenced discharging and receiving cargo, with all possible expedition. I soon learnt that during the delay in the arrival of the steamer, the greatest haste would be used in transacting her necessary business, and that she would probably leave on the evening of the next day. I had no time to spare therefore, but notwithstanding my exertions, I was not able to see captain Peacock before the morning of the day on which he was to depart. I met him accidentally as he was leaving his boat ; he was evidently in a hurry, but touching my hat as I approached him, I made known ray request, — " Perfectly impossible, my lad, there has been more than a hundred men applied already, and I can't take a single man." I ventured to speak of A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 83 the extraordinary amount of work that I was willing, he, &c., but, — " I havn't time to talk, can't take you," completed my discomfiture, and feeling as if my heart had suddenly dropped down several inches, and increased in weight, I returned to my old friend the blacksmith. The case seemed not far from hopeless, but stimulated by the many exhortations to " cheer up," and " try some other way to get on board," and somewhat too, perhaps by following their friendly advice to " keep my spirits up, by pouring good ones down" my throat, I determined to go oa board immediately before the hour for the departure of the steamer arrived, and then apply to the first Mate who had charge of the vessel when th& Captain was ashore. Therefore at nightfall, I hired a native to take me to the steamer in a, canoe, and soon arriving alongside, hastily ascended to the deck. The night- was very dark, and the lanterns scattered about, disclosed the confusion of i getting under weigh and receiving cargo, which every where reigned. Most of the men were at work in the ship's cutters, and at the moment E reached the main deck, Mr. Holloway, the first mate, was on the poop, hurrying off one heavily laden with goods and passengers. Perceiving that there was no one at hand to obey his order, to cast off the painter from the' deck, &£c., I hastened to do it, and then coiling up two or three large ropes-^^ that were lying on the deck as if I was perfectly at home, and knew what' I was about, I coolly ascended to the poop, whence he was eyeing me witli.| some surprise, and asked permission to work my passage to Valparaiso, at the same time assuring him of my willingness to do all that laid in my", power, he, he. He received me very kindly, and after a short conversa-^I tion, gave me leave to come aboard. Elated with joy, I made all haste t(>'| the shore, where I received the warm congratulations of my friends, and^ especially of the noble hearted engineer of the Naval Steamer, who, not con~[ tent with all that he had already done for me, insisted upon going aboard_j the Chili, and introducing me to the Boatswain, with whom he was wellcj acquainted. I Accordingly I was soon in the private cabin of the old tar, who cordially^ received me upon my friend's introduction, and forthwith gave me an invi-J tation to join his mess, which comprised only the carpenter, who roomed with him, and himself. This I willingly agreed to do, as thereby 1 escaped. a boy's life in an Enghsh forecastle, which is so much worse than that of the veriest cur, that I had really dreaded, and was glad enough to escap© it. A boy in such company is always treated like a perfect slave, being not only obliged to do the duty of a servant in keeping the forecastle in order, during the few hours allotted to him for sleep, and waiting upon the men at their meals, but he is also obliged to obey any order that is given him by a " man," even if it is to get up in the middle of the night to fetch a drink of water. This treatment is a strong contrast to that which is com- mon aboard American ships, where the young democracy are apt to count upon their rights. Therefore in order not to allow the sailors any foundation for the claim upon my services, which they might be disposed to assert, the boatswain 9^ A~ CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. requested me to pass the night in the forecastle, belonging to the firemen and stokers, and until he could obtain, as he afterwards did, Mr. Holloway's assent to his plan. These firemen a*nd stokers, about a dozen in number, were Londoners, who had come out in the ship, to serve a certain number of years, and from their habit of mixing but little with the sailors, who were coming and going, they had managed to retain in great perfection the slang phrases, manners, customs and peculiarities, which so strongly distinguishes that class of labor- ers in England. They were mostly rough, heavy, hard-fisted fellows, and lovers of the pugilistic art, but withal kind and generous. Upon entering their domicile, where the watch below was in their berths, and seating myself upon a chest, being both tired and hungry, I was soon saluted by a succession of growls, issuing from beneath sundry great rough shocks of hair, which intimated that I had got into the wrong box, and that the sailors' forecastle was on the other side of the deck. A few words of explanation, however, and a brief statement of the destitution I had lately been subjected to, brought a couple of them to their feet, who hastened to set before me an abundant supply of beef, bread and duff, at the same time that they kindly apologized for their roughness. Heartily thanking the noble fellows for their hospitality, I attacked the fare before me with right good will, and then accepting a berth which was tendered to me, I passed the remainder of my first night on board, in sound and refresh- ing slumbers. The internal arrangement and economy of the steamer I was aboard of, did not differ much, except they were on a smaller scale, from those which ply across the Atlantic. The after cabin, which was elegantly furnished, extended forward to the main deck, and above the poop deck was a prom- enade, though it was but little used for that purpose. Forward of the wheel houses, on each side of the fore-deck, was a row of half a dozen cabins, which were chiefly occupied by the officers, stewards, and others, and last of all, a spacious top-gallant fore-castle, divided into two parts, one of which was occupied by the sailors, and the other by the firemen and stokers, two very different kinds of men, and numbering each about a dozen. Of the officers, beside the captain, there were three mates and two mid- shipmen, all of whom affected naval attire as well as importance, and though last not least, was the jolly old boatswain, who made more noise than any man in the ship, always excepting the first mate, Mr. Holloway. I soon fell into my regular routine of duties, as far as there could be any regularity about them, for I had a hand in almost every thing that went on. There were three boats attached to the steamer for active service, two large cutters which were suspended from each quarter of the ship, and the little " Dingy " which I was entrusted with almost the sole charge and supervision, with orders to pull one of the two oars which was her com- plement ; and as this little boat was in common use while in port, which we were almost one half of the time, a very large part of my time was taken up with her. She was a comical looking little craft, built very light, and "N A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 85 only about ten feet long and more than half that in width, so that she bore no slight resemblance to a washing tub. But she would ride the waves like a cockle shell, and was the safest in which to land in a heav}' surf. The " Dingy " was the only boat used by the steward, and, therefore, I was brought into very close connexion with his interesting department. He was a genuine John Bull, about five feet and a half high, rather more than that in girth, and the very personification of importance. Any infringment upon his dignity would cause him to swell up enormously, and his eyes pro- ject like those of lobsters. He was in the main good natured, however, and always recompensed any extra fiitigue by a liberal glass of grog. One important result of my belonging in the Dingy was, that I almost invariably went ashore at every port upon the coast, that the steamer stopped at. This was on the whole agreeable, as I thereby had an opportunity of closely observing the buildings, manners, and customs, &c., of the various nations that v/e had intercourse with. But when lying at anchor for three or four days at a time, as we were accustomed to do at the large cities, as Callao, Valparaiso, &c., my duties in the boat were much more onerous. I was usually " roused out " by the steward at about four o'clock in the morning to go to market, which took two or three hours, and then after working all day long, the " Dingy" and her crew were required to be at the wharf at ten or eleven o'clock in the evening, and remain there until the officers who were spending the evening ashore, chose to return, which was generally a little after midnight. I must not omit alluding to the characteristic generosity of the sailors aboard, as soon as they discovered my lack of clothes. Being ordered to take the look out one night, when the driving wind was loaded with a cold and heavy rain, I was obliged in self-defence, to urge the insufficiency of my clothing to protect me from the weather. Instantly an overcoat was banded me by one, a pair of thick trousers by another, a hat by a third, and the next day I had quite a comfortable assortment. On the whole, however, I passed my time in a pleasanter manner than I expected, and as the time drew near for me to go ashore, I began to seriously consider the various suggestions which were made to me by the officers, to the effect that I should sign the ship's articles, or " ship" for a certain number of months, and I did so the more readily, because I did not much fancy the idea of going ashore among strangers, where I might be obliged to wait some time before I could procure a homeward bound ship, and in the meantime to be destitute of money, and almost entirely with- out clothes. Therefore, I at length came to the conclusion that I would not exchange a certainty for an uncertainty, or leave a situation where I was certain of a sufficiency of food, clothing, and medical treatment, during sickness, for a sailors' boarding-house in Valparaiso, where there was a probability of my being again reduced to the destitution I had lately endured in Guayaquil, of which I was heartily tired. While, at the time I signed the articles, I firmly determined to allow all my wages to accumulate and thus, at the 36 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. period of my discharge, be possessed of a sufficient amount to defray my expenses ashore, and procure sufficient clothing for my voyage home. I shipped, therefore, as "boy," for three months, with the understand- ing that I should still continue in the boatswain's mess, and being then at work for wages I commenced a more systematic routine of labor, and per- ceived at once the different relation in which I. stood towards the officers and men. Before, as I was only expected to do enough to compensate for my board and passage, I was more of a nondescript than any thing else, answering to the mates, midshipmen, boatswain, steward, engineers or sailors as my services were required. But afterwards, my duties in the boat were paramount to all others, and I knew whom to obey and whom to disregard. After stopping three or four days at Valparaiso, the steamer com- menced her return trip, and I soon found out the difference between the trip "up" towards Chili, and the one " down," to Guayaquil in the amount of work to be performed. This difference consisted in making and taking in sail, which was almost constantly going on in the downward trip, whereas, in my first voyage up, there had not been a sail set during the whole time. To understand this clearly it is necessary for me to allude to certain atmospheric phenomena, which I shall only state without explaining. During the greater part of the year, the wind blows from the southera lati- tudes, say thirty or forty degrees, towards the tropical regions of the Equator, with great steadiness, and frequently varying only a few points for many weeks at a time. I have been told, and it is my belief, that the atmos- pheric current north of the Equator, likewise set in the same direction, but not having been over the ground, 1 cannot speak with the same certainty as in the other case. Therefore, persons on the coast instead of speaking of going North or South, use the phrase of, " to windward," which is in a southern direction^ and " to leeward," meaning towards the Equator. Just as we were leaving Valparaiso, on our return to Guayaquil, and were getting aloft the top-gallant masts, yards and sails, I bad an opportu- nity of performing a feat, which is generally well rewarded on certain festal occasions. The fore-top-gallant mast, which was some fifteen or twenty feet in length, had been well " slushed" or greased while on deck, prepara- tory to sending it aloft, and the halliards or large rope which sustains the yard and sail, had also been rove throogh the top of it. The mast was then hoisted to its place, and we were just about bending the halliards on to the yard, when the clumsy Dutchman, who had hold of the end, let it go and away it went, flying through the pully at the mast-head, and then the whole length of rope came rattling down upon the deck and heads of the men ; to their dismay and my agony, for I suspected what would come next. There stood the tapering mast in its place, glistening in the sun with the slippery coating I had just abundantly laid on, and on the poop in front of the passengers, was Mr. Holloway, walking to and fro like a raging lion, and bellowing at the men in all parts of the ship. Quick as thought, he perceived the disaster, and with a lurking smile^ roared out, A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Q"? " Lay aloft there, you Jim, and reeve them halliards." Instantly seizing one end of the rope, I sprang into the rigging and scrambled for the top. mast head, as if my life depended on my speed, determined to show that I could do some things quickly if not others, and then I took a hasty glance around. On the poop were about a hundred and fifty passengers, staring with all their eyes at every thing strange and myself in particular ; below me were the uplifted faces of all the crew, and the old boatswain who was singing out, " be lively," by way of encouragement ; and above was the mast describing an arc of about forty feet, with a jerk at each end, as the steamer rolled heavily from side to side in the trough of the sea. There was no time to lose, however, and collecting all my energies, I commenced my ascent, but had not got up more than two or three feet before an unlucky jerk sent me sliding down on my knees in the top. The passengers seemed more interested, the mate stopped in his walk, the men grinned, and the boatswain encouraged me again. This was too much, and setting my teeth, I clenched the mast with the energy of desperation, and commenced such a climbing, shinning, wriggling, crawling and swarming, that I at last accomplished my aim, and added something to my reputation, which about that time gained me the soubriquet of '* Spider." CHAPTER XIV. Description — Contrasts in Climate — In Scenery — In Countries — In Natural Productions — In People — In Price of Fruits — In Sailing to Windward — In Beef Cattle — Splendid Beef — Yankee Vegetables — Good Living — " Copper John" — Standing Joke — Hydropathy — Pas- sengers — Ludicrous Stupidity — Content — Continued — Slaves — Anchor in Guayaqnil — Jolly Times — Pine Apples — ^Gold and Silver — Animals — Monkey Shines — Aguadiente — Landing at Pisco. Many reasons, sufficiently evident of course, prevent my attempting to give minute descriptions of the innumerable objects of interest which exist, and I perceived along the great extent of coast, that I traversed in the steamer five different times. Indeed wild youths of the age I was at that time, are apt to seek only pleasure in the present, rather than information and in- struction. There were differences in climate. In Guayaquil during the day we were literally scorched by the fiery heat of the sun, which kept us in a profuse perspiration, as we toiled at our various tasks, and the shades of night hardly served to cool our heated blood. But in the ports of Chili, it being the coldest part of the year, we could endure warm clothing, during the day, and be troubled with cold feet at night, especially if they got wet, as mine very frequently did. In fact from Callao south, I used to suffer not a little while spending hours at a time by night and in my boat, and not unfrequently wet from head to foot by landing in a heavy surf. Stronger contrasts too often presented themselves, even within the range of human vision. For days at a time, while oppressed with heat upon the steamer's decks, would we behold the rugged peaks of the lofty Andes, white and glistening with the ice and snows of ages. There were varieties of scenery and these innumerable. Many a time while sailing in the tropics, has the glorious moon disclosed scenes of such surpassing loveliness that any description would be a mockery, and then for long periods nought scarcely was to be seen but sandy slopes or high and rugged rocks, which seemed to smile defiance at the angry surge which Jashed their towering sides. There were many countries, each with its peculiar natural productions, some, clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation, and teeming with life and animation, yielding every variety of delicious fruits and nourishing food, while others presenting only sterile tracts, and rocky heights to the view, were no less rich in numerous mines of precious metals and useful coal. And scarcely less than climate, scenery and natural productions differ, the people with whom we held intercourse at every port in their bodily constitutions and mental peculiarities, their social customs and daily occupa- tions. Those living in the enervating climate of Ecuador, shun laborious A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 89 toil, and cannot bear extreme fatigue ; midway in Peru, the hardy miners with muscles hke steel, toil from morn till night in the bowels of their rocky land, while in Chili's temperate climate industry, healthful vigor, and happy cheerfulness prevails. It was curious to observe the different estimation in which the same kind of fruit was held by the people we came in contact with during two or three weeks. In Guayaquil I used to buy at retail eighteen large oranges or three small apples, whichever I preferred, for a medio, six and a quarter cents, but in Valparaiso or Talcahuana the same sum would procure just three small oranges or eighteen large apples. These were the extreme points, but in all the ports south of Ecuador, tropical fruits were eagerly sought after and bought at enormous prices by the wealthy land-holders, who spend their gold ounces, as the other people spend dollars. I have frequently seen pine-apples, which are most prized, sell for four or five dollars apiece, and a few years before, they would command ten or fifteen, and that only twelve or fifteen days sail by the steamer from the place where they were purchased for a medio or real. The reason of these high prices was owing to the impossibihty almost of preserving them on board the sail craft, which were the only method of transporting them before the steamers came upon the coast. And these vessels being obliged, for reasons I have before explained, to beat to wind- ward the whole distance, would oftentimes be forty or fifty days in making the same distance which the steamer would accomplish in ten. There was as great a difference in many other articles of food, not only in price but in quality. In the Tfopics, as I stated in some cursory remarks upon Ecuador, the beef cattle are comparatively few in number, and small in size, while their flesh, of which not a great deal is consumed, is sold, if I re- collect aright, as high as a real, or twelve and a half cents per pound. But as we go farther south the plains are covered with roaming herds of count- less thousands of cattle, both wild and partly domesticated, or at least branded with somebody's mark. And still farther on in ChiH, are to be found some of the most magnificent cattle in the world, large, strong, and spirited, and looking as if they made it the whole business of their lives to eat and grow fat. And here we used to procure some of the most delicious beef that ever delighted an epicure ; such magnificent hind quarters, enormously large and almost entirely covered with golden fat, it has never been my good fortune to see or taste in any other part of the world. It may be that I relished them the more because I was generally blessed with an extraordinary ap- petite, but I am, nevertheless, firmly resolved never to admit the superiority of any other kind. And not the least surprising thing about that beef was, that the finest could always be procured for about one cent per pound. In the same regions, too, may be found in extraordinary abundance, and at a proportionate price, nearly every variety of Yankee vegetables, only much larger and finer, and many other kinds too numerous to mention. Thus I have shown, though very imperfectly and briefly, that nearly every different section of country produces something suitable for food ia 90 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. abundance. And as the passengers and crew of the steamer were supplied almost daily with fresh provisions, which were purchased from the shore, it may be imagined that we sailors did not lack for variety, or, to the credit of the officers, for very good living, myself particularly, from my intimate connexion with the steward's department ; 1 used frequently to throw out of the little window of the boatswain's cabin, large dishes full of cold chicken, duck, he, in order to make room for a fresh supply. Then, too, our mess would frequently commission me to purchase a delicious dinner in the morn- ing, when I went with the steward to market, and at such time I only took the ship's allowance of good soup and smoking roast beef, into the door in order to pass it out of the window. All this was very fine to one who had practiced starvation as extensively as myself during the past few months. But before concluding my dietetic remarks, I must pay a tribute to the memory of a very extraordinary individual who officiated as cook to the crew, and who was called " Copper John." Imagine a lean, stooping, bilious, copper-colored looking individual, about five feet and a half in height, with a face as sharp as a hatchet, eyes like a weasel, and a nose which resembled the beak of an eagle, only that it was longer and had more of a Roman cast. His long, dark, and narrow sanc- tum was situated just forward of the wheel-house, and there, fretting to and fro in his dungeon all day long, he used to growl, snarl, and snap at the passers-by, or those who were so unfortunate as to have any business with him. Therefore, it was generally considered the best standing joke in the ship, to request a green-horn or a new comer when he sat down to his first din- ner, to go and remind Copper John that he had neglected to send in the usual quantity of black pepper; I also carried this message, but I no sooner witnessed his diabolical contortions of countenance, than I sloped before he found time to utter a word. He stood in fear of the crev/ in their corporate capacity, nevertheless, on account of his having been previously " cobbed " two or three times. This cobbing operation is performed by lashing the patient to the barrel of the ship's windlass, face downwards, and then each individual inflicts a sound blow upon a very sensitive part with the cook's ladle, or sometimes the flat of a handsaw is equally if not more efficacious. The most prominent of the cockney rascal's failings, was his unchangea- ble habit of getting drunk whenever he had an opportunity, and especially at night, which he managed to effect pretty often when we were lying in port. At such times we used to make an orthodox application of the prin- ciples of Hy-drop-Kthy, or water-cure, by hauling him out of bed very early in the morning and putting him under the pump, in order that thereby wc might excite such a degree of animation as would enable him to cook our breakfast. The extensive accommodations for passengers which the steamers afforded were generally well filled, and sometimes crowded to overflowing. They were of all complexions and tongues, Spaniards, Americans, French- men, Englishmen, &ic., travelling for business or pleasure, and not unfre- A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 91 quently would be seen some magnate for the first time emerged from his country hfe in order to acquire a knowledge of the world in general, and his own country in particular. As regards their seasickness and other manceuvres on ship board, I pre- sume they were like all other passengers only more awkward, as they fre- quently exemplified by going to the windward side of the ship in order to release the rebellious contents of their stomachs, which the ascending cur- rent of air would infallibly blow back into their faces •, suffice it to say that, that the men used to consider themselves partly repaid for the frequent use of a swab which they were obliged to make, by maliciously enjoying the ludicrous agonies of the seasick mortals who caused them the trouble. The only indication of slavery I ever saw on the coast, was when a slave-driver and fifteen or twenty negroes took passage for a short distance. The poor creatures seemed the very personification of animal degradation and abject misery, and their driver, an American or Englishman, notwith- standing his swaggering deportment, was evidently ashamed of his business, and not insensible to the contempt manifested by a general avoidance of his society. I involuntarily imagined from the expression of his face, as he went over the side, that he was impatient for an opportunity to vent his suppressed rage, by an extra use of his lash upon the backs of his victims. At length the steamer once more drew near to Guayaquil, and as we passed Puna and commenced ascending the river, familiar places momen- tarily appeared, every one bringing some remembrance of my adventures while cruising in the whale boat with my old companions. At length we came in sight of the city, and were soon laying at anchor in the river for a stay of three or four days, and the usual laborious work immediately commenced. I soon had an opportunity of conversing with many old friends and acquaintances, and I was especially pleased at meeting Lawrence and Albert, who then belonged aboard a coasting craft, which at the time was lying in the stream. We soon fixed upon a certain night, which we deter- mined, to spend together ashore, if we could all obtain leave to do so, as we were at last enabled to. This was in fact the only time during my stay aboard the steamer, that I allowed myself to ask for liberty ashore, as I was bent upon saving my wages until I left, and my request to that effect was readily granted. Therefore at sunset we all met ashore, and commenced at once the work of enjoying ourselves, which we kept up in high spirits in every part of the city until midnight arrived. By that time, as we did not care to run the risk of being carried to the calaboose by the police for be- ing out at a prohibited hour, we adjourned to a well known boarding house, and being joined by three or four others, gave way to jolly revelings. Mirthfulness reigned supreme, and laughter, jokes and songs filled up the time, while generous wine flowed never more abundantly, or disappeared with such marvelous celerity. At last all things began to dance around, not men alone, still seated in their chairs, but the table too — " steady, my lad," — the song goes on — bottles and glasses dance to the strain — the lights are meteors darting to and fro — fainter grows the song — Morpheus holds 92 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. forth his arms — ^olian strains linger in the distance — 'tis dark — and all is hushed. The next morning after our ablutions, strong coffee and dry toast were voted the best remedies for headache, and breakfast being over we separated for the employments of the day. Before leaving, the steamer took on board the enormous amount of at least fifty or sixty tons of delicious pine-apples, besides large quantities of plantains, bananas, &;c., which were intended for sale all along the coast, and a very profitable speculation they turned out to be. They were stowed, hung and packed in every available place above the main deck, and on both sides of the poop for its whole length, were large crates filled to the brim. No body lacked for fruit of all kinds to eat, for some two or three weeks after, as the rolling of the vessel continually caused the ripest ones to fall about the decks. In the upward trips the steamer, among other articles of freight, fre- quently received on board immense quantities of the precious metals, the principal part of which was always destined for Valparaiso, there to be coined perhaps or sent abroad. I recollect of hearing the captain once remark that there was no less than ten tons of silver in the specie room, beside a large amount of gold; and this did not very much exceed the quantity usually carried up. This metal was brought upward in every shape. In dollars, and then they were done up in bags of hide, one thousand being put in and sewed up tightly when the skin was green and capable of being stretched, so that when it shrunk upon being exposed to the sun, the mass of coins were as compact as if they were in a vice. Sometimes and most frequently it was in form of bars or cakes, the former being of every shape, and varying in weight from twenty-five to seventy-five pounds, while the cakes were gen- erally only from one half to two inches thick, and as irregular in their appearance, as if a mould had been made in sand with the hands, and the silver run into it while in a liquid state. As the irregular edges of the latter kind were liable to break off, they are always more or less protected by a covering of hide. There were also generally many kinds of animals and birds on board belonging to the officers and passengers. Of birds, parrots were the most numerous, and of animals monkeys were the greatest favorites. These used to cause no little sport by their mischievous tricks, sometimes mimicking the men when they were pulling and hauling ropes, or else putting them- selves into a towering passion at being disturbed or laughed at, which would only redouble their rage and excite them to hiss, spit, and chatter with increased fury. I must relate one little incident that came near causing the death of certain individuals with their immoderate laughter. Immediately after breakfast one fine morning, I went aft for the semiweekly allowance of flour, molasses, &2^c., for the use of our mess. I brought the flour forward in a large, shallow earthen pan, even full, with a pint cup of molasses placed upon the top of it, and as the little table of our cabin was entirely covered A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 93 with the breakfast dishes, I placed the flour and molasses in the bed of the boatswain, not yet made up, for a few moments only. Then collecting together the dirty dishes, I carried them to Copper John, and being detained for a few moments, did not return immediately to the cabin, the door of which I had as usual left open. But when I did so there was Jocko sitting in the flour and hastily conveying the molasses from the cup to his mouth by jneans of his paws, which he first dipped into the sticky liquid and then lapped with his tongue. The knowing rascal no sooner perceived me in the doorway, which was the only outlet, than conscience stricken, he yelled with fear, and began running to and fro in the berth, knocking over the molasses cup, and with the contents of that and the flour stirring up an ex- tempore pudding in the midst of the bedclothes, while covered himself even to his face with both articles, he looked like a restless ghost in need of a catholic exorcism. As there were none of the ghostly fathers on board to perform that ceremony, I made a desperate plunge at him ; he was too lively for me though, and after he had received a few punches and repaid me with several scratches, he ran over my head and out of the door. But he was not yet clear ; the old boatswain who had been seated on the windlass quietly smoking his pipe, perceived the nature of the conflict just in time to catch the flying brute by his tail, as he was ascending the rig- ging. Encouraged by his late victory over myself, the infuriated beast turned upon the old taf with tooth and nail, and after knocking off his tarpaulin, scratching his face, pulling his hair and breaking his pipe, again managed to escape and was soon out of harm's way, setting upon the main stay, where he continued licking himself, spitting and chattering by turns, for about six hours, much to the mortification of the boatswain, who could not bear the sight of a '• d — d monkey," for a long time afterwards. Beside innumerable other articles of freight, large quantities of Agua- diente are transported from one port to another. On the whole, this is the liquor most universally drank by all classes ; it is, I believe, made generally of sugar-cane, and resembles N. E. rum in color, though differing very much in flavor. It is of course, of different qualities, some being very fine and palatable, while other varieties are just the reverse. It is put up mostly in small tapering earthan jars, holding about one or two gallons, and we always received on board large numbers of these from a city named Pisco, which is said to produce not only more than any other place, but also the best. I shall never forget this place as being the very worst at which to land, of any other port on the coast were a landing was ever attempted, as it was almost entirely exposed to the open sea. Notwithstanding ray dislike, though, I was invariably obliged to go ashore in the Dingy every time we came to the port, and was always very happy if I escaped with nothing but a thorough ducking. The appearance of the rollers mountain high, which came rushing furiously to the shore, and continually broke with a thunder- ing crash, was absolutely appalling, and we could only land in safety by reversing the boat as we neared the surf, and backing stern foremost to the shore. I particularly recollect landing upon a certain morning when the surf 94 ' A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. was unusually high. The pursy steward had only a few days before fallen from his horse and broken his arm, so that he was obliged to carry it in a sling. This made him a little nervous about going, but as his business rendered it necessary, we set off from the ship and at last managed to gain the beach, after several narrow escapes from being upset. In about half an hour the steward returned, and taking his seat in the boat we run her a lit- tle way into the breakers, and then jumping in seized our oars and pulled lustily through and over the furious breakers, which covered us with their spray, and threatened each instant to engulph the boat. We were just con- sidering ourselves fairly beyond, when the really frightful looks of the steward and an order to " pull hard " caused me to look around, and then I saw two or three heavy swells a quarter of a mile off, and every moment rising in height as they rushed rapidly towards us. Our object then was to ride over them before they could have time to break, otherwise there was not much doubt of our fate. Therefore, we bent our oars to the task, and successfully passed the two first, when a glance behind showed the last one some fifteen feet off, and towering in one green wall away above our heads just beginning to curl and froth upon the top, preparatory to a grand crash. The steward's face swelled enormously, his eyes started from the crimson mass of flesh like lobsters', and we strained every nerve — when the roller rushed like lightning beneath our boat, actually leaving it entirely out of water, to fall some six feet through the air, and broke with an awful crash just a few feet astern. The steward's head gradually diminished in size, and we pulled merrily for the ship, congratulating ourselves upon our narrow escape. CHAPTER XV. Singular Boats — Fishermen — Abundance of Fish — Numbers of Rirds — Seals — Police Regula- tions and Customs, etc. — " Scrape," in Valparaiso — Old Tom — Arrested — Stock Transac- tions — Lambayeque — Northers — Stormy Scene — Perilous Adventure — Go Ashore — Talca- huana. At some places on the coast of South America attempts were never made to land in the steamer's boats, on account of their exposed situation and the dangerous surf. At these ports the steamer would be visited by the large kind of balsas that I have previously described, large surf boats, and many other kinds, which were to me of a new and singular description. One kind in particular deserves notice for its simplicity, and, at the same time, perfect safety, being in fact a very large life preserver, and therefore ■ much used. It was made of two very large seal skins, as I was informed, from six to eight feet in length, which after being dressed and pro- perly prepared, were each carefully sewed up, so as to make them air-tight, and then painted of a red color. After being blown up or inflated with air, they were laid parallel at, say three or four feet apart, and a small platform, generally about five feet square, constructed upon the top of them, and on this frail machine the amphibious natives, fishermen particularly, would brave the heaviest or highest waves. They are most used by fishermen in their occupation, and we used fre- quently to see numbers of them, each with his basket lashed beaide him, and his feet perhaps dangling in the water, busily engaged in hauling in his prey. We u^d frequently to call them alongside, and have oftentimes pur- chased fish from them unsurpassed for the beauty of their forms and colors, and their fine flavor. And the price of these was never more than one me- dio for a deck bucket full. I should pass by a very prominent and important part of the resources of the people upon the coast, if I neglected to allude to the great abundance of all kinds of fish upon every part of the coast, and particularly in the re- gions near the equator. Here the water literally teems with innumerable varieties of the finny tribe, from the dense shoals of minims an inch in length, to the enormous whale which consumes millions of the smaller kinds at a repast. And among all these are very many kinds which are extensively used for food along the coast. They are generally prepared for transportation by splitting them open, and then after dipping them in salt water taken from the ocean, they are laid upon the rocks in a burning sun, where they soon become almost as thin and as hard as a fine shingle. In this state they are packed into bales and sent in all directions. 96 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. These infinite varieties and shoals of fishes afford sustenance to such numbers of seafovvl as baffle all description, and are of every size, from three inches to six feet in length. They are seen in the greatest numbers when the wind has been blowing for some time strongly towards the shore. The air as far as the eye can see in every direction is literally darkened with them, while they constantly keep up an almost deafening racket with their cries. To this great abundance of sea-fowl, it is well known, that the formation of the Guano Islands in the Pacific, as well as other parts of the world, is attributed. I saw and visited many of thern, but as they have been so often described I will not notice them farther. Seals also abound in great numbers. We frequently passed isolated rocks half a mile in length, perhaps, and some distance from the shore, which were literally covered with the amphibious beasts. These I presume, and have been informed, were mostly hair seals, whose skins are not very valuable. The far seal used to be very abundant upon various parts of the coast, where now there are very few if any remaining, having been almost exterminated by the hunters. At length the steamer anchored in Valparaiso again, and here I got into a scrape that will throw some light upon the police regulations of the city, and especially those relating to the custom-house department. And I have no hesitation in relating the consequences to myself of the indiscretion of another individual, because I think that it is not the punishment for crime which disgraces a man, but the fact of his having committed it, and I also believe that if a person is punished without cause, he is not morally dis- graced thereby^ but only subjected to more or less inconvenience. It may not be amiss to remark, by way of preface, that in point of numbers alone, the police all along the coast excel any other nation I am acquainted with. All these constables, if I may so call them, whether belonging teethe day or night police, are always armed more or less, and generally with a cutlass. The officers, too, are numerous in proportion to the privates, and are always mounted and more fully armed. Like all cowardly people, they are generally very harsh in their treatmerft of prisoners, and, also, those whom they are ordered to arrest, their orders being generally accompanied by an injunction to carve up any man without mercy who (jares to resist. This they are only too willing to do, and oftentimes to a drunken wretch unnecessarily, so that frequently of a night, a good part of the prisoners will be covered with blood. In Valparaiso the police force is very numerous and efficient, being bet- ter disciplined than in any other place on the coast, particularly in that department to which is confided the execution of the regulations of the Custom-House department. And these are necessarily very strict both on account of the form of the harbor and city, and the great number of vessels which are almost always lying at anchor. Among these, police boats are constantly moving, both by night and day, in order to prevent or detect irregularities, while a great many watchmen are necessary in order to pre- vent goods being landed and carried up into the city, which extends for three or four miles around the head of the beautiful bay of Valparaiso. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 97 It was eight o'clock in tlie evening of a long laborious day, and supper being just over, Tom and myself were ordered into the cutter in order to pull Mr. Holloway ashore. The night was raw and very cool, but being in haste I neglected to wear anything except the thin shirt, duck trousers, and straw hat which I had on at the time, thinking that the exercise of pulling would keep me warm, and that I should not be gone long. Tom was a genuine old jack tar, always trim and sailor-like in his per- son, verging on the sere and yellow leaf, and confirmed in habits of dissi- pation, which he naturally always thought it of paramount importance to gratify. Therefore, when Mr. Holloway had ascended the wharf, Tom touched his hat and very humbly asked leave to go up to the " Red Lion," and buy a small quantity of grog. Of course this request was not granted by the mate, who had lately been much annoyed by drunken men, and he accompanied his positive re- fusal with the strictest injunctions to return immediately aboard. We there- fore shoved off without saying anything more, although I shrewdly suspec- ted that Tom would make another effort to procure the grog, and the more strongly because he told me, being nearest the wharf as we pulled away, to keep my eye on the mate, who staid to see us off, seemingly determined to wait until we had got aboard. At last, however, as the night was dark, and the steamer lay some distance from the shore, he lost sight of us amid the shipping, and I saw his lighted cigar turn round and walk up the street. Apprising Tom of this, as in duty bound, he directed me to back water while he pulled the boat's head round, and then shaped our course to that part of the beach just in the rear of the " Red Lion." We soon arrived there, when he jumped ashore, and telling me to keep the boat a few yards from the beach and out of the petty surf, he ran up to the tavern for a few moments. While thus engaged in my solitary employment, I was s'omewhat sur- prised to see a couple of officers running towards the boat with drawn swords, their cloaks flying in the wind, and followed also by several men armed with naked cutlasses. Arrived as near to the boat as the v/ater would permit, they imperatively ordered me to shove the boat ashore, upon which I, f^r obvious reasons, began shoving off as fast as possible. — It was too late, however, for rushing into the water nearly up to their armpits, they seized the cutter, and hastily jumping in, one of the officers presented his sword to my breast with the assurance that if I did not instantly obey his orders, he would run me through. With such a contingency in prospect, I of course felt bound to submit, and assuming the most respectful manner imaginable, I endeavored to assure them of my innocence with regard to any evil designs, and to beg an ex- planation of such singular conduct on their part. I could, get nothing satisfactory out of them, however, and in pursuance of their orders, I assisted to take the cutter round to the pier in front of the Custom-House, which v/as about a quarter of a mile off. Arrived there, the boat was hauled up on to the beach, in the midst of the crowd which soon gathered around where I waited, wondering what would happen next. gg. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. I was soon visited by a superior officer, who interrogated me concerning the affair, to which I replied, of course, by telling the simple truth, seem- ingly to his satisfaction, as he nodded affirmatively, and finally directed me to assist in shoving the boat off into the water. Mistaking his meaning, partly on account of my limited knowledge of Spanish, I conceived that he 'had given me permission to return, as I re- quested, to the steamer, and rejoicing in the prospect of getting clear so easily, I did not mind getting wet so high as my waist while shoving off the boat. But I was soon undeceived, as two or three police officers jumped in with me, and directed me to assist in taking the boat to the pier near at hand, where she was soon made fast. Everything was then handed out of her, and I was marched up to the Custom-House. Here I was ushered into the presence of an exceedingly pursy and important looking individual, vv'ho requested ms to again account for my being arrested under such suspicious circumstances, which I. did clearly, by the aid of the Spanish and English tongues, combined with all kinds of gestures and signs. I was also directed to tell where Tom had gone, and guided by my directions, some three or four couple started at intervals of a few minutes in pursuit of liim, but without success, partly on account of one or two mistakes Vk'hich I made by confounding the points of the com- pass and sending them in a v/rong direction. I learned afterwards, that Tom, missing the boat, and suspecting something had gone wrong, returned to the " Red Lion," where he imbibed no small quantity of the grog he had purchased, and then passed the night on the floor of the bar-room, with his arms round the neck of the hui^e watch dog. My examination over and committed to writing, the pursy functionary seemingly well satisfied, said a k\v words I did not understand to the officer who had arrested me, and then dismissed me with a gracious wave of the hand towards the door. Again, imagining that I was free, I was just start- ing towards the pier, when a hand was laid on ray shoulder, and a couple of officials intimating that I was yet in custody, gave me in charge, with certain directions, to two of the street watchmen. I then came to the conclusion, that I was now really in the hands of the Philistines, and I was to bo provided with a night's lodgings at the public expense ; and this time I was not mistaken. After the first pair of rascals had escorted me a certain distance, they sounded a whistle and a couple more appeared, to whom I was transferred, and having been thus handed along about a dozen times, I at last arrived at a collection of buildings large and small, and was brought to a stand before the door of a one story stone structure. The keeper soon appeared with an enormous bunch of keys, and having opened the door, grufHy invited me to enter. Looking in 1 perceived an /apartment about thirty feet square, stone walls and stone floor, entirely des- titute of furniture, with the exception of a plank placed edgewise, near the wall, on every side of the apartment. This plank I saw was pierced with holes, of from three to six inches in diameter, and although I had never seen any thing of the kind before, I easily imagined that they were what are vulgarly termed " Stocks." A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 99 Having a great dislike to all stock transactions, 1 hesitated to enter,, and commenced a parley with the keeper, wherein I offered him a cartain num- ber of dollars for a more comfortable apartment. But it was 01 no avail, and I was at last obliged to take up with a " lodging upon the cold ground ;" that is stony ground. And thus I passed the night lying upon my back, with my feet elevated about a foot, which prevented my sitting up ; and my situation was not rendered any more comfortable by the wet clothes I had on, which conveyed the caloric from my body to the cold stone floor, with most extraordinary rapidity, as was evinced by the continual spasmo- dic action of my eating apparatus. But " misery loves company," it is said, and I had the gratification of seeing about twenty or thirty victims brought in during the night. This gave me something amusing to think upon, as, notwithstanding my hard day's work, I was not in the humor to sleep, and still less to ruminate on the events which the next day might bring forth. Some were in a state of drunken excitement, and these had their necks inserted in the plank as I had my ancles ; some shouted, others cried and groaned, and most of the time the place seemed a perfect bedlam. About midnight, and to my satis- faction, a Spaniard with whom I had had some intercourse, having been brought in for being engaged in a domestic row, was placed along side of myself. And upon making sundry inquiries relative to the police depart- ment of the city, he comforted me with the assurance that I ought to think myself extremely fortunate, if I escaped with the privilege of sweeping the streets for a year at least, with a thirty two pound shot attached to my ancle. I may here remark, par parenthesis, that this class of criminals are at night confined in barred cages on wheels, like the carriages of wild beasts in a caravan, in order that they may be conveniently and safely coveyed to wherever their labor is required. Revolving these delightful considerations in my mind, I passed the remainder of the night. And, to curtail my yarn a little, I was finally released next morning, and returned to the steamer a wiser though not a better man. The season of the year h^d now approached when for three or four months strong winds prevail all along the coast, and in the southern lati- tudes, heavy gales. This, of course, rendered my duty in the boat as to land- ing, fee, only the more unpleasant and dangerous. I recollect particularly, the adventures of a certain evening, off the port of Lambayeque. It is a place at which the boat of the steamer never attempts to land, on account of the heavy rollers which begin to break at least a mile from the sandy beach, on which the water deepens but very gradually for some distance from the shore. It was customary, therefore, to discharge cargo, &tc., into the surf-boats manned by natives. But on the evening I speak of, the steamer arrived many hours after her time, and there were no boats to be seen, while the pitchy darkness of the night prevented any communication with the shore. It was about nine o'clock ; there was no rain, but the sky looked black J^O A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. and threatening with heavy clouds, while the tempestuous winds with furi- ous blasts, *ised rough and angry waves, whose inky blackness contrasted strongly with the whiteness of their crested tops. Landward, the stormy scene was bounded by the long line of raging surf some two or three miles distant, and nought beside our boat was visible but a solitary brig, anchored between us and the shore, and rising and pitching heavily on the lofty billows. Although no boat came off to the steamer, I had no idea that any of our boats would be lowered, least of all, my own, the Dingy. But I was soon apprised that there were letters of importance aboard which must be left, and immediately after I was ordered to clear away the Dingy, and aided by one oC the men, convey the clerk of the steamer to the brig afore- said. This was anything but palatable, but having no discretion in the matter, and particularly averse to expressing any fear, I hastily jumped in and the boat was lowered away. This lowering in a heavy sea I always considered a very disagreeable business, as owing to the rolling of the vessel and the waves rising and falling alongside, the boat would one moment be ten or fifteen feet out of water, and the next descend with a heavy splash into the water, only to be jerked up again immediately after. We had just got clear of the ship's side, when an exclamation from the clerk who was seated in the stern, caused me to look around, when I per- ceived a streak of fire seemingly issuing from the bow of the brig to which we were bound, fee. We pulled av*^ay, however, and as we were going before the wind made rapid headway, but were somewhat astonished at the length of time which elapsed before reaching our destination. This was soon accounted for, however, by finding that the brig had just before parted one of her anchors, and it was the cable flying out of the hawse hole v/hicb had caused the light we had seen as we were leaving the ship. The clerk's business was soon dispatched on board the brig, which had brought up with her best bovver, when we accordingly set out on our return to the steamer. And then commenced the tug of war; the wind, which increased every moment in fury, was directly in our teeth, and we could scarcely make any progress against the heavy sea which covered us with spray, and obliged the clerk to learn the art of bailing the boat. But at length, after a long and a weary pull we gained the steamer, and the clerk having ascended the side, I .was just congratulating myself with the pros- pect of being soon on board, when I was ordered to take a turn with a small hawser which was handed me from the paddle box, and prepare for a tow through the water. Lamenting my fate, I did so v/hile Bill took the helm, and we were soon flying along on the tops of the waves as the steamer dashed madly onward. It seems that owing to the wind and tide both set- ting towards the shore, the lead suddenly disclosed the fact that there was not quite water enough under her bottom. At length, however, I went under the disagreeable ceremony of being hoisted up into the boat, and happy at escaping with a torn shirt, I hastened to improve my watch below. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. JQI The period of three months for which I had shipped, at last came to an end about the middle of the last trip I made in the steamer from Ecuador, and I joyfully anticipated the time when I should be emancipated from ser- vice, and have an opportunity of embarking in a homeward bound ship. — ■ The probability of again returning to my native land seemed now to assume a tangible reality, and inspired me with renewed hope and courage to sur- mount the discouraging impediments yet before me. Instead of going ashore at Valparaiso as I at first determined, I conclu- ded to leave at Talcahuana, as being the most suitable place at which I might be able to obtain a passage home in a whaling vessel. This I pre- ferred to do, as I knew that I should have much less work to perform aboard than if I shipped in a merchantman for wages, which would be of no object to me after I once set foot in the United States ; and this course arose not so much from indolence as from the feeble state of my health, which almost incapacitated me from very severe labor, although I had been for some time engaged in it. But the period at which I left the steamer at Talcahuana, happened to be during that part of the year when heavy northers prevail on the coast, and the harbor, although sheltered in every other direction, being perfectly exposed to their influence, is at such times almost entirely avoided by wha- ling and all other vessels, and I was therefore unexpectedly compelled to spend six or seven weeks ashore before I could procure a ship. I passed most of the time right pleasantly, however, and will give a brief description of such parts as will give some insight into life upon the coast. But before doing so, I beg leave to make some general remarks illustrative of the character of the South American people upon the coast. It would have been more appropriate, perhaps, to have inserted them before, but I have been writing in such haste, to tell the truth, that they did not previously occur to me, and nearly all that I have written being already stereotyped, I can only insert them here or not at all. CHAPTER XVI. General Remarks — Theories, &c. — Natural Influences — First Settlers — Creoles — Differences in Bodily Strength — Disposition, &c. — Foreign Adventurers — Hospitality — Own Experience — Beach Combers — Singular Manners and Customs — Flogging — The Commodore — Wine- Close. Before proceeding farther, I wish to make a few general remarks concern- ing the causes, &c., of the almost innumerable existing differences between the various nations and classes of people in western South America, as regards their physical peculiarities and mental qualities ; their dispositions, habits, social customs, &.c. The researches and theories of antiquarians and others, have led many to believe that a great part of the American continent was, in former ages, inhabited by nations and tribes of people who had attained to a much higher degree of civilization and refinement, and differed in almost every respect from those who were discovered by Columbus, and others who have since settled in various parts. Indeed there can be no doubt of this from the tumuli, ruins and curiosities which have been discovered throughout the length and breadth of the land, and which were certainly not fabricated by any existing people. Also, obscure traditions, physiological resemblances, and other consi- derations, have given rise to the belief that these ancient and unknown tribes, were literally swept from existence, by the devastating and ferocious irrup- tions of countless hordes of Asiatic barbarians, who poured like a torrent from Bhering Straits to Patagonia. Their object was gain, and their motto extermination, and the natives they encountered, being of mild and inoffen- sive disposition, made but foeble opposition to their barbarous and ferocious attacks. But without dissenting from the latter part of this proposition, I am myself rather inclined to the belief that these invaders migrated to that portion of the earth's surface now termed the American continent, while the Pacific ocean was yet unformed, or before subsequent convulsions of this globe, arising from internal causes, had, by depressing some parts of its sur- face and elevating others, caused the existing bodies* f water to change their localities. They were then able to pass from the eastern to the western hemisphere by land, and also to settle upon the intermediate tracts which are novN^ entirely submerged, with the exception of the numerous islands of the Pacific ocean ; the present inhabitants of which, I conceive to be descended from the same stock as the tribes we term the aboriginal inhabi- tants of America. And the great differences in the physical and mental peculiarities A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 103 between the many tribes of the latter people, are also referred by some, to the action of natural influences, such as climate, soil, natural productions, &tc., of the-regions they inhabit, upon them during many centuries. Now whether this is really the case, or whether the hypotheses alluded to above are correct, I shall of course let every one decide for himself. But this at least is certain, that warm or cold climates either enervate or invigorate the physical constitution of man, and his energies and mental qualities are, more or less, developed in proportion as circumstances create desires, and at the same time compel him to exert his talents to satisfy them, and procure the means of subsistence. And it is no less true, the first Spanish settlers upon the western coast of South America, discovered many varieties of Indians, from the effeminate and inoffensive native of Peru, to the ferocious and gigantic Patagonian. With these they intermarried extensively, and as a result, the greater part of the descendants of these white and red men, have both Spanish and Indian blood in their veins, and constitute the body of the people in the States and Republics which they have formed themselves into. There are yet many large tribes of Indians in the interior of the country, who, perhaps, have rarely if ever seen a white man, and concerning whom I know little or nothing. A.nd there are also some residents upon the coast who boast of pure Castilian blood, and whom I shall not particularly allude to, as the prominent featues of the Spanish character are generally well understood. So that I shall principally confine my remarks to the mixed or creole population. Therefore, it will be perceived as a natural result, that the distinctions in color alone are almost innumerable, varying as they do, from the white com- plexion of the Caucasian race, to the hght red, and deep black of the native Indian. " And the constitutional differences between the inhabitants of those parts of South America lying in the torrid, temperate or frigid zones are not less perceptible than between those of similar regions in any part of the world. Those living in the enervating climate of Ecuador or the northern part of Peru, are effeminate and indolent, generally devoting only such a small por- tion of their time as is absolutely necessary to procure the means of sub- sistence, which old mother earth there produces in the most lavish abun- dance. But as we proceed farther south, and towards the temperate and delicious climate of Chili, the people are more noble and manly in their character as well as in their constitutions, which are much more vigorous and healthy, contributing to symmetry and grace, while they generally toil as circumstances may require, with ready cheerfulness. And proceeding onward, still further toward the rugged climate and inhospitable soil of Patagonia, we find the inhabitants either possessed of iron constitutions and gigantic frames, or dwarfad and stunted in their growth by cold and an insufficiency of nourishment. In addition to these distinctions already enumerated, there must neces- sarily be, and arc, corresponding ones in dispositions, social habits, customs, &;c. A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. As I before said, I confine my remarks principally to the Creoles, who compose the largest part of the population along the coast. They all ex- hibit prominent features of the Spanish character, generous hospitality, warm friendship, or bitter enmity, jealousy, passion and hasty revenge, more or less modified, sometimes improved and sometimes not, by admixture and amalgamation with the various and opposing characteristics of their Indian ancestors. I have also heretofore alluded somewhat at length, to the pretty exten- sive prejudice which prevails against foreigners, particularly among those who come in contact with them. For this there are many and very good reasons ; as I have no doubt but that a parcel of foreign adventurers are the very worst curse that can be inflicted upon a simple and unsophistica- ted people. As a general thing they are innocent of natural uprightness, and unrestrained by the public opinion of a people whom they arrogantly affect to despise, so that the more ambitious excite hatred by their insa- tiable lust for power and plunder, and the sottish and beastly, contempt and derision by their shameful drunkenness and licentiousness, at the same time that they introduce the most horrible diseases and degrading habits, which I presume are inseparable from the benefits ? of civilization. But I am digressing. It is on account of these prevailing prejudices, perhaps, that they frequently display their more disagreeable traits in their intercourse with foreigners, and thereby impress them with an unfavorable opinion of their character. Notwithstanding all allowances, however, it is certain that a large portion of these people, especially the military, very much resemble the inhabitants of Mexico in some points of their charac- ter, being, although more courageous, insolent, tyrannical and overbearing, when clothed with a little authority. The hospitality and generosity of the country people is sometimes curiously united to traits of an entirely opposite character. If a traveller, whether foreign or otherwise, should exhibit poverty and want, he would always be hospitably entertained, and very likely presented with a roast turkey as provision for the next stage of his journey, by the same people who would not scruple to cut his throat if he was possessed of wealth or -Valuables, in order to obtain them. As regards public and private morality generally, it is unfortunately at rather a low ebb. But this remark applies with much greater force to the more civilized part of the population, those who reside in the principal ports and have most intercourse with foreigners, than to the country people. Among these, female virtue is held in far higher estimation than in some cities, Lima for instance, which are sinks of depravity and licentiousness. I will now return to my own experience, &;c., &;c. ,',, The morning of rny departure from the steamer, which was not unat- tended with some regret, I received my wages, amounting to some thirty dollars, in gold, with much satisfaction, and having purified myself as much as possible from coal dust, and dressed myself in rny best suit, I landed in high spirits. To my surprise and gratification one of the first persons I met was Sherman, whom, it will be recollected, was one of ray companions A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. , K© in our " cruise in a whale boat," and heartily exchanging congratulations I accompanied him to his boarding-house, which proved to be the. best in the place, that is, for sailors. There were also about fifteen or twenty other boarders in the house, mostly careless jolly tars and clever fellows, who, like myself, were waiting for an opportunity to ship, although not on a homeward bound voyage. Nearly all of them had been some time ashore, and of course, were entirely out of money, living upon credit, with the understanding that their bills should be paid out of what advance they might obtain from such ves- sels as should require their services. Seafaring men living under such and similar circumstances in the vari- ous ports along the coast, are generally called " beachcombers," and as they constitute a very prominent and rather important class of individuals, I shall make a few general remarks concerning them. In the strictest sense of the word, a " beachcomber" rather signifies a reprobate who lives by his wits, and spends as much of his time ashore in idleness apd dissipation as possible. Such individuals, however, com- prise but a small part of those to whom the term is applicable, oftentimes meaning, as we frequently use it, all the seafaring men ashore at any place, who may be without employment. This class of people is, of course, composed of foreigners of all nations, but the greater part of them are Americans and Enghshmen. Many of them preferring such a mode of life to any other, have resided many years, perhaps, upon the coast, and have no desire to leave for any foreign coun- try. Such resort to innumerable methods of gaining a livelihood, according as fancy or necessity may dictate. It is a common practice with some to ship for a single cruise of six or ■eight months aboard of whaling vessels, receiving as wages, a certain share, or its equivalent in money, of the quantity of oil obtained while they are on board. At other times they will ship aboard of merchant or trading vessels bound up and down the coast, or among the many beautiful islands of the Pacific ocean. Others again, engage in sealing expeditions, which formerly used to be very profitable, or capture terrapin upon the Gallapago islands for the sake of their oil or fat, which commands a good price. And there are always more or less of them serving for different periods in the armies and navies of the different Republics. In all the national wars and dissensions where there is any fighting going on, they are always sure to have a hand in it, upon one side or the other, it don't matter much which, as far as the princi- ples or points at issue are concerned, being generally determined in their choice by the prospective amount of pay and plunder. In view of these multifarious occupations, it will readily be conceived that the old residents are generally possessed of a wide and varied experi- ence, and I have been frequently interested for hours at a time, while listen- ing to their marvellous tales of stirring incidents and hair breadth escapes. They are generally hardy, reckless and unprincipled, but still generous, and recofrnizing certain laws of honor in their intercourse with one another. 106 A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. Whenever congregated ashore, they form themselves into a regular orga- nized body, upon democratic principles, and elect certain officers, whose authority so long as they hold their office, is unquestioned. They are generally known as the admiral or commodore, a captain, and a boatswain with one or two mates. Certain laws and regulations are then enacted, which all are expected to observe. These are few in number, and refer principally to the observance of honorable dealing, he, among the fraternity, though if any individual commits any particularly mean or disgraceful act in his intercourse with the native population, he is punished for the discredit he thus brings upon other seafaring men. Infractions of these laws are generally punished by a flogging of a greater or less number of lashes administered by the boatswain or his mates. These customs were, of course, observed among the sailors with whom I associated during the time I was in Talcahuana. There were forty or fifty in all ashore, and we used to hold our regular and special meetings around a long table in a large apartment of the boarding-house in which I resided. There was generally but little business to transact, owing to the orderly character of the men, and after this was over, songs and festive merriment prevailed. I witnessed but two or three punishments which were well merited, and unanimously decreed. They were administered in the most methodical, man of war style, the criminal being raised up to a large gun, placed upright in the ground for that purpose, and one or more dozen well laid on to his bare back. The authorities seldom or never interfere in these matters, and a negro sailor who had his back marked with about three dozen, for stealing some clothes from a woman, could obtain no other satisfaction from the consul to whom he applied for redress, than being told that he had been served exactly right, and that such beneficial regulations would not be interfered with. I was well acquainted with our Commodore, who was a man in the prime of life, and possessed of a liberal education of noble sentiments. He had been only a short time previously engaged as schoolmaster aboard a man of war, but he was a great enemy to himself, and marred all the better qualities of his nature, by the ruinous and degrading habit of indulging ia intoxicating drinks. He was eternally making resolutions to reform, and would sometimes abstain for many days at a time, but he was invariably tempted by one thing or another, to relapse. When he was sober, he was a very agreeable and interesting companion, and I used almost daily to enjoy walks of several miles into the surrounding country in his society. These excursions in a fine day, were always exceed- " ingly agreeable, if it was only for the contrast they afforded to the tedious confinement on ship-board, and interesting incidents frequently occurred. The surrounding country strongly reminded me of New England scenery and vegetation, only that it was much more beautiful and luxuriant. All the necessaries and luxuries of life, peculiar to a temperate climate, are A CRUISE IN A WHALE BOAT. 107 produced in great abundance, and as I have previously remarked, are sold at a very cheap rate. For one real, or twelve and a half cents per diem, will procure a single man a very handsome subsistence. The country people are generally extremely temperate in their diet, and very rarely drink to excess. Their manners are simple, and they generally seem cheerful and contented. Wine in Chili, and Talcahuana in particular, is very abundant and cheap, the retail price for the best not exceeding a medio, or six and a quarter cents per bottle. A long earthen jar of wine, is almost invariably found in every habitation however humble, and when not for sale, is almost invariably proffered to the guest or visitor. Notwithstanding its abundance and cheap- ness, it is very pure and good, and is brought down from the country in goat skins, slung two upon each mule. These animals always move in single file after their leader, who has a bell attached to his neck, and I have frequently seen hundreds at a time thus laden descending the neighbor- ing hill. As nothing farther occurred of material importance, during the remainder of my stay in Talcahuana, I yield to circumstances which prompt me to bring my remarks to a close at this point. 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It contains the enly account of the Desperadoes of the South-West ever written. Its details respecting the Regulators and Moderators are of the most thrilling chaiacter, while the narrative of the Cane-Hill Murders, and the trial and execution cf the supposed murderers, absolutely surpass anything to be found in fiction. (Q^ The work is splendidly illustrated. The cuts drawn hy Elatlieson and engraved bjy Orr. For specimen of the style, ^c, see next page. ^^ Please preserve this Circular till called for. a£^ JUST PUBLISHED. THE PHILOSOPHY AND POETRY OF BEAUTIFUIiY ILLUSTRATED. Fa' ice I^' €-eiats» To give some idea of the book, read the headings of ths Chapters : PHILOSOPHY OF LOVE. Chaptes I.— Love defined — The Elements of Love — The Origin of Jealousy — Jealousy iDescribed — The Sen&ual Ebiment in Love^Love, why the most Engrossing of all Passions. Chapter II. — Influence of Love upon the Mind— How it differs in different individuals — Of the difference between the love of man and woman — ^Cliaractsristics of woman's love. Chapter III.— Love daring the middle ages — Love with the Italians — Jealousy, its nature and origin — Effects of Jealousy upon Love— Unjust suspicion, a cause of Jealousy — Peculiar <;ir>Timstancc=! favorable to Jealousy. Chapter IV. — Love, how it may be preserved and how destroyed — How the feeling of se curity sometimes destroys Love — What influence carelessness has upon Love — The greatest danger to Love after Marriages-Causes of the decline of Love — Mental qualities the most en- during — How Love may be cherished — Love at first sight — How to cure Love. Chapter V. — Uncertainty, a promoter of Love — Difficulty, a promoter of Love — Effects of difficulty, two-fold — Absence strengthens Love — Effect of little caprices and quarrels. Chaiter VI. — Books and Music a food of Love — Gifts — Vicious and imprudent conduct growing out of Love-^VVretchedncss arising from injudicious marriages — Love sometimes changes to aversion — Danger of marrying without Love. CE.tPXEK Vll. — Marriage without affection the result of an unnatural heartless state of so- eiety— Courtship a delightful period of life — Immoral tendency of Marriage without Lore. POETRY OF LOVE. Chapter I. — Love, its importance, value and beauty — All noble beings live in their affec« l;ions — Love in its highest sense — Love identified with religion — Human nature richij devel- oped only through Love — Love is properly recognition — Conventional alliance — Influence of uncongenial bonds upon women — Mutual sentiment necessary to keep affection alive. Give me the Boon of Love — The Blind man to his Wife — Woman's Fidelity — A VirtuotW Woman — Connubial Love — My own Fireside — Wedlock. 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