S B 
 

 ^2^ ^ 
 
 ^"r/m- 
 
 
 ai. 
 
 I 
 
 .^U/ r'RSSu 
 
 ""united states of AMERICA. 
 
:^ 
 
 :ii \. >^A '^ 
 
 s^, 
 
 
s ^m 
 
 -4S^ 
 
 -Cr 
 
 :^A, 
 
 I. The ■•Stem," 
 •2. The '• Foot Roots,' 
 :}. The '-Siile Roots,"' 
 •I. •• Surface Roots," 
 .). The '-Head," 
 
 6. The "'J'highi^," 
 
 7. 'I'he '• Beariiij< \\'v«> 
 -. ••(iioiind SlKtots." 
 
 • Bow.-, 
 
 Bm.I> ■ 
 
 Dur Slumiu. 
 
 Die Fuss-Wilizeln. 
 
 Seitcn-Wiir/.ehi. 
 
 Tas,^- oiler Tliau-Wiii 
 
 Der Kopt'. 
 
 Die Scheiikel 
 
 TraKhares Hin/. 
 
 Bu(lei.-Il..l/ 
 
 Zapfeii 
 
 Boyoii t?i'lii>s> 
 
THE 
 
 YIM-DRESSER'S MANUAL 
 
 AN 
 
 IKiistrafclr featisc 
 
 VINEYARDS AND WINE-MAKING 
 
 BY CHARLES REEMEI.IN, 
 
 OF OHIO. 
 
 w 
 
 A^j 
 
 ><^ii 
 
 MSl^'^r- 
 
 ^V-ifli- 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 C. M. SAXTON & COMPANY, 
 
 NO. 152 F0LTON STREET. 
 
 1855. &. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, 
 
 By CHARLES REEMELIX, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Ohio. 
 
 
 
OOISTTEISTTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Introduction, 7 
 
 Names of the various parts of which the Viae is composed, 9 
 
 Location and Soil, 14 
 
 Preparation of the Ground, 19 
 
 How to mark out a Vineyard, and get it ready for the Vines,. ... 25 
 The Propagation and Multiplication of Vines, and how to Plant 
 
 them, 29 
 
 What species of Grapevine shall we cultivate ? - 37 
 
 Treatment of a young Vineyard the first three years, 41 
 
 Vineyard Stakes, 48 
 
 Trimming young bearing Vines in the fourth year, 55 
 
 How to bend the Bows, 61 
 
 On Trimming generally, 64 
 
 How to cultivate the soil of a Vineyard, 71 
 
 Vines on Trellises, 73 
 
 Summer Trimming, 77 
 
 Gathering the Grapes, 82 
 
 Manures, 86 
 
 Diseases to which Grapevines are subject, 88 
 
 Wine-making, 89 
 
 Mashing the Grapes, 89 
 
 Pressing, 94 
 
 Treatment of the Wine, , 98 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The object of these pages is to furnish to such as 
 have no opportunity to learn the Vintners' business 
 practically, easily comprehended and reliable instruc- 
 tions, so that even the most inexperienced may, with 
 this book in his hand, start, plant, perfect and culti- 
 vate a vineyard, and make good, wholesome wine. 
 The writer is himself a practical vintner, owns vine- 
 yards, has worked and does work in them. He gives 
 to the reader the knowledge derived from reading, 
 and also through a somewhat extended intercourse 
 with vintners from various countries, as well as his 
 own actual observation in various parts of the United 
 States and Europe. 
 
 His object is not to make money. He has long felt 
 that the United States need, as an important element 
 of its horticultural economy, the domestication of the 
 grape, and that, in the progress of time, the use of 
 wine as food must necessarily be a part of the social 
 enjoyments of our people. 
 
 He is often asked in private conversation, especially 
 while travelHng, various questions about vineyards. 
 
 (7) 
 
8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Thus to answer is very tedious. lie concluded, there- 
 fore, to write this little book, which, being sold cheap, 
 might be in the hands of nearly everybody, and thus, 
 at little cost, give to all who wish it the desired in- 
 formation. The writer trusts that it will be received 
 as an humble contribution to a subject, which cer- 
 tainly is receiving, as it deserves, very general 
 attention. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
Clje i'ine-Jresser's ^Taiuial 
 
 NAMES OF THE VAEIOUS PAKTS OF WHICH THE 
 VINE IS COMPOSED. 
 
 I DEEM a knowledge of these various parts, and 
 their names, of mucli consequence to a correct under- 
 standing of tlie whole subject, and hence will at once 
 describe and name them. 
 
 England has no vineyards, and therefore the techni- 
 cal names I shall give are, in general, mere trans- 
 lations of similar words, which in German have an 
 accepted meaning with reference to Grapevines. I 
 give, also, the German in every case, as this may facili- 
 tate the intercourse between Americans who plant 
 vineyards and the German vineyard men. 
 
 The cut. Fig. 1, represents the various parts of a full- 
 grown grape vine, which are severally numbered. 
 The reader should familiarize himself with them by 
 frequent reference. 
 
 (.9) 
 
10 THE VIXE-DRESSER'S MANUAL. 
 
 The Grapevine (Weinstock) is properly divided iuto 
 two classes : 
 
 I. That below the surface of the ground. 
 
 II. Thai above the ground. 
 In the ground are : 
 
 The " Stem,^' (Stamm,) marked No. 1, is either the 
 result of the planted cutting or of a grapevine root. 
 
 No. 2 is the ^^ Foot,'' (Fuss,) or lowest part of the 
 stem, out of which grow, in an obliquely downward 
 direction, those important roots called ^^ foot-roots,^^ 
 which, if they spread and grow Avell, are the chief 
 basis of the whole vine, and without which it can- 
 not be truly healthy. These foot-roots are also 
 marked 2. 
 
 From the other buds upon the " Stem," arise the 
 ^^ Side roois^^^ (Seitenwurzeln ;) they grow above the 
 foot, and draw their novirishment like the ^^Foot roots^^^ 
 (Fusswurzeln,) through roots almost as fine as hair, 
 which spring from the main roots. They are marked 3. 
 
 The ^^ Surface Boots,^^ (Tag Wurzeln,) which grow 
 out of the head of the stem, nearly parallel with the 
 surface, and also out of those buds which are about 
 six inches below the surface of the ground. They are 
 marked 4. 
 
 Above the ground are : 
 
 Marked 6, the "i/e«c?," (Kopf,) or the upper part of 
 the "Stem," out of which grow the first and second 
 
NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 11 
 
 3^ear tliose first young twigs, from whicb. are ultimately 
 formed tlie vines. 
 
 Marked No. 6 are the " Thighs,'' (Schenkel,) of the 
 " Vine Stock,'" or if the reader likes it better, simply, 
 the '' Viney 
 
 Marked No. 7 is the ''Bearing Wood,'" (Tragbare 
 Holz,) which grows upon and out of the "thighs," 
 '^ bows" and spurs, and which is to form the bows and 
 spurs for the next season. 
 
 Marked No. 8 are those branches which even after 
 the " thighs" are once formed, are continually growing 
 out of the " head," and often even protrude from the 
 main stem below the surface, called the "Ground 
 Shoots," (Boden Holz.) 
 
 Marked No. 9 are those branches which gTow from 
 the joints or buds in the " thighs," and which arc 
 trimmed down to two or three buds in the fall or 
 spring following their growth, and are called " Spurs" 
 (Zapfen.) 
 
 ]\Iarked No. 10 are those branches immediately above 
 the " thighs," which are early in spring trimmed down 
 to six or eight, or even ten buds, and from which the 
 main product of grapes is expected. During that year 
 they are called '' Bow-hranches" (Bogenschoss,) or 
 simply '■'■Bows" (Bogen,) as they are bent artificially 
 hito bows, and so tied to the stake or post in the 
 sprhig. 
 
12 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 Marked No. 11 are the ''Buds,'' or "i^>5"attlie 
 joints, wHch if round and perfect, andlience promising 
 a good harvest, are called ''Fruit Buds,^' (Frucht 
 Aiigen,) and if pointed and meagre — " Wood Buds,''' 
 (IIolz Augen.) Out of the "buds" grow " SI toots," 
 (Ruthen,) which, when green, are tied up to the stake, 
 and when matured are called " Wood." 
 
 From the "Wood" grow the "Leaves,"" which afford 
 the requisite shade, and perform an all-important part 
 in the nourishment of the vine and in the growth and 
 ripening of the fruit. 
 
 Very near the buds spring forth those smaller 
 branches, which I will call " twigs," which in literal 
 translation of the German I might call "cross-teeth," 
 (Aber Zahn.) 
 
 Immediately opposite to the " Leaves," grow out of 
 the same buds the " Grapes" — and where there are no 
 grapes there will be found those little fibrous twigs 
 called " Tendrils" which are a convenient appendage 
 to the grapevine ; with them they twine themselves 
 to objects near them, maintaining thereby their fruit 
 and branches above ground, even in a wild state — an 
 indication which practical vine-dressers have not failed 
 to follow. Very often, too, after the grape has par- 
 tially grown, the fruit gradually disappears, or " runs 
 out," into these little "cord-twigs," or tendrils, and 
 through this operation very often a crop very promis- 
 
NAMES OF THE VARIOUS PARTS. 13 
 
 ing in tlie earlier portions of spring is much dimin- 
 islied. Practical vine-dressers therefore smile at en- 
 thusiasts, who count their grapes before this danger is 
 past. These cord-twigs which thus spring from buds, 
 which should bear grapes, are in German called 
 Gabelein, "forks." I name them " Tendrilsy 
 
 The fruit stalk comprising the centre axis with 
 its branches, or the part of the cluster which remains 
 after removing the berries, is called the " Comh^ 
 Grapes which are ^''close herried^'' are best. 
 
 The berries contain, when ripe, saccharine matter, 
 (never yet brought to crystallization,) Avater, much 
 coloring matter, and also substances more or less pe- 
 culiar to taste and smell, according to the kind of 
 grape and the season. 
 
 The saccharine matter is the great basis of the fer- 
 mentation, and therefore of the quality of the wine. 
 
 The taste peculioT to each kind of grape arises from 
 the inside coating of the skin of the berry, a matter 
 easily tried by chewing and sucking this skin after the 
 pulp is squeezed out. The peculiar smell also springs 
 from substances immediately connected therewith, and 
 the reason why wine Avhich passes through its first 
 fermentation before the juice is pressed from the 
 crushed grape, possesses the taste and smell peculiar 
 to each grape in a greater degree, must be sought in 
 the fact, that through this process the saccharine slime 
 
14 
 
 is better dissolved, and because then the fermentation 
 absorbs and acts more fully upon those peculiar sub- 
 stances which adhere to the skin. 
 
 The '' coloring matter" lies in the inside of the skin, 
 and is easily developed, but much modified through 
 the subsequent fermentation in the cellar, and wine 
 treated as it is commonly in the United States, may 
 eventually be colorless, as the coloring matter has no 
 lasting effect, imless the fermentation takes place 
 before pressing out the juice. 
 
 Within the berry are the ^^ Pulp,''^ and the '^ Kernel. ''^ 
 I have thus named all I deem essential, and the 
 reader and myself will, I trust, hereafter better under- 
 stand each other. 
 
 LOCATION AND SOIL. 
 
 The best location, if it is desired to produce good 
 wine, is the southern exposure of a hill or hillock. 
 There the vines get the proper sunshine, and are also 
 properly protected against storms, especially the north 
 and north-east winds. A location giving an exposure 
 midway between east and south is also favorable, 
 because such an exposure gets the sunshine from morn- 
 ing till pretty late in the evening. 
 
LOCATION AND SOIL. 15 
 
 A due eastern exposure is less favorable, since it 
 loses the sun too early ; it is ever exposed to eastern 
 winds, and is sensitive to frosts, even of the lighter 
 sorts, because it receives the rays of the sun so very 
 early and direct, as to subject such locations to injury 
 from freezing nearly every year. 
 
 Still worse is a western exposure, because it receives 
 the sun till very late, and hence suffers from the 
 chilly evening dews, which in this country are, com- 
 paratively speaking, far colder than in Europe. Such 
 an exposure must necessarily suffer from west winds, 
 and is also more liable to be injured by hail. 
 
 Hills and hillocks are far better for wine-culture 
 than plains, which latter may produce greater quanti- 
 ties of wine, but it is invariably of a poorer quality. 
 Plains or hills whose soil, either on the surface or as a 
 substratum, has yellow or blue clay soil, are not favor- 
 able for vineyards, because upon such soils neither the 
 atmosphere, nor the sun, rain or dew, can operate as 
 they should, and hence there is danger that the vine 
 will be affected with the wet-rot. The sun's rays hardly 
 ever strike vines upon plains in the proper direction, 
 so as to afford the required Avarmth, and the wood and 
 the grapes are apt not to get the proper ripening ; such 
 localities are also far more subject to winter and spring 
 frosts, and to mildew. And, in addition, they must 
 necessarily suffer more from destructive insects, snails, 
 1* 
 
16 THE VINE-DRESSEll'S MANUAL. 
 
 and animals of every description, as it is Avell known 
 that sucli prevail more largely upon plains. 
 
 There exists, however, a great difference between 
 the foot, the middle, and the crest of hill-sides. The 
 middle gives the best wine ; the foot is more or less 
 subject to frost, and does not receive adequately the 
 sun's rays ; while the crest is too much exposed to 
 cold winds, in addition to its soil being very seldom 
 good enough. 
 
 Nor must neighboring objects be lost sight of in lo- 
 cating vineyards. Favorable is everything which 
 tends to temper and somewhat increase warmth, and 
 vrhich protects against frosts, raw winds, and other 
 casualties ; such as woods, buildings, high walls, and 
 adjoining hills, provided they are in the rear or north 
 of vineyards, and such localities will always produce 
 the earliest ripe fruit and the best quality of wine. 
 
 Injurious objects, when too near neighbors, such as 
 lakes, ponds, swamps, and cold wet woods, are to be 
 avoided, as from all these cold mists are apt to gener- 
 ate. Hills, houses, trees, &c., should not be so near as 
 to throw a shade over the vineyard. Vineyards 
 should never be planted along deep valleys, hollows 
 or gorges, which run east and west, since such almost 
 invariably produce, in winter especially, constant 
 drafts of wind, and they are more or less injurious. 
 Grass and clover patches should not be too near, as 
 
LOCATION and" SOIL. 17 
 
 they draw frosts, and smitliies or other large labora- 
 tories or manufactories, are also to be avoided on ac- 
 count of the smoke. 
 
 Much depends, also, upon the quality of the soil, 
 which changes often within a very small space of 
 ground. A grapevine will grow, to be sure, where 
 other plants grow, but the quality of the wine is 
 always modified by the kind of soil. 
 
 A heavy soil — one composed of sticky clay — will 
 not permit sun and rain to penetrate, and may there- 
 fore be termed a cold soil. In such, grapevines soon 
 become weak and sickly ; in wet seasons their foliage 
 is apt to have a yellowish tint ; the roots rot, and even 
 where that should accidentally not take place, the qual- 
 ity of the wine will never be very good. The only way 
 to render such a soil fit for a vineyard, is by a copious 
 application of lime or marl mixed with sand, — ^yet it 
 may be done, but not efficiently, by mixing with it a 
 sandy loam. Little, however, as vineyards will prosper 
 in such cold soils, they will succeed just as little in too 
 light sandy soils, unless well mixed with clay loam, or 
 clayey marl. 
 
 The soil most to be preferred in climates such as the 
 Northern and Middle States of this Union, is that so 
 generally prevailing rich loam, mixed with some gravel 
 and marl. This kind of soil differs largely in various 
 locations, and it will take a more or less lengthened 
 
18 THE VINE-DEESSEII'S MANUAL. 
 
 period of iiidividaal experience to find the best loca- 
 tions. We sliould, however, always examine into the 
 more general admixtures of the soil Avhich we propose 
 to select for our vineyard. There should always be 
 some sand, some clay, some limestone, and. some gravel 
 in it. Is there too little sand or gravelly limestone, 
 then, the soil will soon become too clayey and cold, or 
 if there is too much gi'avel and sand, then vegetation 
 is impeded. Our soils almost invariably lack what 
 European vineyard men prize so highly — gypsum — 
 and this must be supplied by proper manures. The 
 best wines in Europe gi'ow upon the hill-sides of lime 
 or gypsum mountain ridges, whose formation is some- 
 what mixed with sandstone. The color of the soil is 
 not always a sure indication of the quality of the soil, 
 but it may be assumed as a general rule, that soils for 
 vineyards should neither be a very light yellow, nor 
 a very brown red. To recapitulate, therefore : 
 
 The altitude of a vineyard should neither be too 
 high nor too low, as compared with the sun^ounding 
 country. The exposure should be selected with due 
 reference to giving full chance to the sun's rays during 
 the entire day ; and the soil should neither be too rich 
 nor too poor, — affording to the roots of the vine and to 
 atmospheric influences an easy chance to penetrate. 
 
PKEPAKATION OF THE GKOUND. 19 
 
 PKEPAEATION OF THE GROUND. 
 
 This matter embraces the foundation of the whole 
 subject of vine culture, and herein nearly every vine- 
 yard yet planted in America is defective. Labor is so 
 extremely high here, as to make it seem to us almost 
 impossible to start a vineyard as it should be. Our 
 very best vineyards are spaded up but two feet, while 
 in many parts of Europe they spade up the ground 
 to the depth of three and four, and even five feet. 
 We never prepare the ground itself, during the preced- 
 ing year, while in Europe it is sowed down in clover, 
 for a few years previous, and well covered with good 
 coatings of gypsum and manure. We trust to the vir- 
 gin richness of our soil, and in our confidence are apt 
 to forget that spading up the ground for several feet is 
 done for other reasons besides mere fertilizing ; and 
 that among these, for us especially, mast be a sinking 
 below the subsoil the present surface or upper soil, 
 which being full of decomposed vegetable matter, is 
 the hot-bed of all manner of insects. The spading 
 up and turning of the surface soil beneath its present 
 subsoil, is of the greatest importance, because thereby 
 the " Foot Boots" may penetrate downwardly, and thus 
 give to the whole grapevine not only its vigor, but 
 also its great safeguard against too sudden atmospheric 
 changes, or long-continued droughts. And I may in 
 
20 THE vine-dkesser's manual. 
 
 connection with this, here rcm.ark upon an erroneous 
 suggestion, which I have noticed in some agricultural 
 journals. They suggest a longer '' stem." I do not 
 think that the stem should be much longer than twenty 
 inches, but think it of the first importance that the 
 foot roots should penetrate deeply. 
 
 The ground intended for a vineyard should be well 
 manured the previous year, either by a coating of lime, 
 where that kind of manuring is proper, or by gypsum, 
 where it can be had ; or by ploughing under some green 
 sward, such as clover ; or at least by a good and thor- 
 ough coat of manure, straw, or even leaves. 
 
 Of the ground thus prepared, the surface should, for 
 the depth of twelve inches at least, be sunk beneath 
 twelve inches of soil immediately underneath. This is 
 best done, if the ground be loamy, with the spade, or 
 if stony with the mattock. For this purpose a trench 
 is first dug four feet wide, and to the depth to which 
 the vine-dresser is going to spade up and trench his vine- 
 yard. Into this first trench, say four feet wide and two to 
 four feet deep, and as long as the vineyard may be, say 
 two hundred feet, is then thrown twelve inches of the 
 surface soil (using the very best steel spades), and by 
 driving the spade into the ground as nearly perpendicu- 
 lar as possible, and not slanting, as lazy laborers are apt 
 to do ; for thus alone can this top soil be spaded up to 
 the depth of at least twelve inches. The loose soil 
 
PREPARATIOX OF THE GROUND. 21 
 
 wliicli is left in tlie trench, having crumbled from the 
 S23ade, must then be carefully scraped into the first 
 trench, and then the twelve inches of subsoil must 
 again be similarly spaded up and thrown upon the 
 jireviously spaded up surface soil, and so on, each 
 twelve inches to the depth required. And the loose soil 
 left in the bottom, must also again be carefully shoveled 
 up and thrown upon the other ground. Thus trench 
 after trench will be regularly formed, imtil the whole 
 allotted piece is finished. Let the reader bear in mind, 
 as tlie sine qua non of a good vineyard, that it is not a 
 mixture of the surface with the subsoil that's wanted ; 
 but that the subsoil cover, for twelve inches at least, 
 and twenty to thirty if possible, the original surface 
 soil, and the deeper this is done (always in reason) the 
 better. ' It is far better, view it in whatever light w^e 
 may, to have a small, good vineyard, than a large, 
 poor one. 
 
 The ground thus spaded up should be permitted to 
 settle well, before the vines are planted. One or two 
 good rains will generally accomplish this. The best 
 method is, however, to trench in the fall, and plant in 
 the spring. 
 
 There are other methods of preparing the ground. 
 One is to make large holes, throwing the surface soil 
 underneath and planting the vines therein. 
 
 Deep ploughing and subsoiling is also frequently 
 
22 THE vine-dressek's manual. 
 
 adopted. I have tried all tliese methods. The first 
 vineyard I set out by merely digging holes ; another 
 by ploughing some sixteen inches deep, with a large 
 plough, drawn by four yoke of oxen, and followed with 
 a subsoil plough, drawn by a pair of horses, and another 
 by trenching as above suggested, thirty inches deep. 
 As to results I can only say, that the first planted 
 vineyard is now being dug up, because it was always 
 liable to every disease which happened to prevail in the 
 season, having hardly yielded a fair compensation for 
 the labor expended ; the subsoiled vineyard does bet- 
 ter, but I have no hopes of its lasting more than twenty 
 years ; while a well-trenched vineyard, to the depth of 
 thirty-six inches, with such virgin soil as we have in 
 America, should, and doubtless would last — if otherwise 
 properly managed — ^eighty to one hundred years. I 
 shall hereafter trench any vineyards I may plant, at 
 least thirty-six inches, and recommend the same course 
 to all others. 
 
 I am informed that there is now being constructed in 
 Cincinnati, a large plough to be drawn by six yoke of 
 oxen, and warranted to plough the ground twenty-eight 
 inches deep. I have not seen this latest improvement; 
 and can only say that unless this plough does leave a 
 clean furrow, at least twelve inches wide of the prom- 
 ised depth, it will not answer. The large ploughs I have 
 seen do not accomplish this. They break the ground 
 
PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 28 
 
 up, mix it somewhat, bat do not turn the top soil under. 
 This, for reasons already stated, is not enough. 
 
 It is hardly necessary for me to say, that the proce- 
 dure must be varied with the ground. Some soils are 
 naturally rich to the required depth, though I should 
 fear such soils for vineyards. Others are very rocky 
 and must be worked with the mattock and grul^bing 
 hoe. Good sense will in each case dictate the requisite 
 mode, if we will but bear in mind the great point in a 
 vineyard view. This is to get the surfiice soil beneath 
 the subsoil, so as to afford from the very start of the 
 vine, to the "roots" at the ^'-fooi^ of the vine, an easy, 
 healthy and steady downward growth. They are the 
 life of the vine, and their continued health is most im- 
 portant. If they arc but thrifty, then we need not fear 
 but what the "side" and "surface roots" will always 
 grow and prosper in due time and in proper manner. 
 
 In vineyards along side hills, it is well to use the 
 stones generally found therein, for the purpose of erect- 
 ing walls to prevent " washing." These walls should 
 have their foundation deep enough, so as to be out of 
 the reach of heavy winter frosts. They should be so 
 slantingly laid up, as to bear properly " to land." Such 
 walls are not only useful, but they are an ornament to 
 the vineyard and the general landscape. If properly 
 laid up, they last as long as the vineyard. 
 
 Where stones are lacking, it may be necessary to 
 
24 THE VINE-DRESSER'S MANUAL. 
 
 raise banks by sodding tliem with green sward. They 
 are not as good as stone walls, since the green sward is 
 apt to subject the neighboring vines to frost, but the 
 ground must be protected from washing even at this 
 risk. I take it for granted, however, that there are very 
 few side hills indeed, where by trenching deep enough, 
 there will not be the required quantity of stones. 
 
 I have thus indicated the general rules by which 
 we must be guided in the preparation of the ground in 
 each special case, and I must now only add, that it is 
 a great but frequent error to suppose that throwing old 
 logs, brushwood or stones, underneath, promotes the 
 growth of vines. They may not hinder them, if well 
 packed with ground, but great care should be taken not 
 to leave vacuities, as they are sure to impart to the " foot 
 roots" an unhealthy state. Vines should always be 
 planted after the ground is well settled, and not before. 
 The ground should also be well harrowed, so as to ren- 
 der it perfectly even and in complete cultivating order. 
 
 Before dismissing this chapter I would add, that 
 according to my experience, there is, in fact, but little 
 actual difference in the cost between a well-trenched 
 vineyard and one slovenly laid out. To trench an acre 
 three feet deep, is worth in common soil $100 ; two feet 
 deep, $75. With large ploughs, followed by subsoilers, 
 an acre costs about $25. To dig holes, merely costs 
 about $15. But mark it, you save in a well-trenched 
 
PEEPARATION OF THE GROUND. 25 
 
 vineyard each year, for three years, one hoeing, at 
 least, and you get a good crop in the fourth year. 
 Your vines grow up regular, as in such a vineyard but 
 few miss ; and lastly, let me say to you, that having 
 started right, you are apt to keep right, and are there- 
 fore every way sure to have a good vineyard. 
 
 HOW TO MARK OUT A VINEYARD, AND GET IT READY 
 FOR THE \aNES. 
 
 The ground being properly prepared and settled, as 
 previously suggested, the next thing to be done is the 
 staking out of the vineyard. To do this, it is well to 
 prepare as many little marking sticks (say twelve inches 
 long and half an inch square, pointed at one end) as 
 there are to be grapehills in the vineyard ; for instance, 
 an acre planted four feet apart each way, about 2,200 
 hills. 
 
 The next thing to determine is, how far apart it is in- 
 tended to have the rows. There is no settled rule upon 
 this subject. I have seen, in Europe, thrifty vineyards 
 one foot apart, and I have seen them ten feet apart. 
 The four by four may, however, be said to be the pre- 
 vailing and most approved custom. I have myself 
 lately adopted five by five, and I like the appearance 
 of it very well. In Italy, I am told, vines are planted 
 
26 THE vine-dkesser's manual. 
 
 twenty feet apart, and then they alternate with fruit 
 trees, in the intermediate space, — say a row of fruit 
 trees, and ten feet from it a row of vines, and so on. 
 
 I cannot, without occupying too much space, enter 
 into a discussion of the relative merits of wide or nar- 
 row planting. I can only say that, in my humble 
 opinion, it is best not to plant narrower than four by 
 four, nor wider than six by six. A vineyard spaded 
 up to the proper depth has cost so much as to be in 
 itself a veto on too wide planting, and I may as well 
 admit that I am no friend to mammoth vineyards. In 
 no business is slovenliness more pernicious than in that 
 of a vintner, and I cannot get clear of the impression 
 that large vineyards cannot receive in all points that 
 close attention which is required to raise good wine, 
 and to guard the vines against premature decay. It is 
 to be expected that various methods will prevail, ac- 
 cording to locality, but I doubt not that four by four 
 will prove the most generally applicable. In fact, we 
 we may say, that such is actually the case. Let each 
 follow in this matter his own good sense, and adopt, 
 from the best lights around him, the proper width, 
 bearing in mind the humidity or dryness of his soil, 
 and securing the proper light and shade. 
 
 This done, get good strong cords, long enough to 
 reach as often as necessary across the entire vineyard. 
 Maxk off one cord by putting in a slip of muslin at each 
 
HOW TO MARK OUT A VINEYARD. 27 
 
 of the required distances (say four or five feet apart). 
 This is called the marking cord. 
 
 These cords and the little sticks being ready, let the 
 vineyard be laid out, as near as possible, into a square 
 piece of ground. Then starting at the northwest cor- 
 ner, fastening the marking cord there, draw it from 
 thence to the northeast corner, putting the little sticks 
 into the ground at the places marked by muslin in the 
 marking cord ; then fastening the marking cord at the 
 northeast corner, draw it thence to the southeast corner, 
 again putting in the sticks at the proper places, and thus 
 on firom the southeast corner to the southwest, and again 
 from southwest to the place of beginning. This marks 
 the outer rows. This work should be carefuHy done, so 
 as to get the vineyard into regular squares. 
 
 Then draw parallel cords north and south from 
 each of the little sticks on the rows, which stand in 
 the row between the northwest and northeast corner, 
 to the sticks in the row from the southwest to the 
 southeast corner. 
 
 Across these parallel cords, which are fastened, the 
 marking cord, east and west, as in the annexed cut, 
 is stretched crosswise, and held thereby a person at each 
 end, while two or more hands put in the marking sticks 
 at those places where the marking cord crosses each of 
 the pai-allel cords. As soon as the sticks are put in at 
 
28 
 
 THE vine-dresser's MANUAL. 
 
 these cord crossings, and one row is formed, this cross 
 or rather marking cord is removed and again held over 
 another parallel cord, so as again to form another row, 
 and so on to the end. Fig. 2 will illustrate this fully. 
 Almost complete exactness is thus obtained. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Northwest corner. 
 
 Northeast comer. 
 
 n 
 
 Southwest comer. 
 
 Southeast comor. 
 
 Short rows should, if possible, be avoided, and where 
 this cannot be done, they should be so fixed as not to 
 strike the eye offensively. The direction of the ro^vs 
 should be such as to allow the sun to have the greatest 
 effect — at the same time so as to prevent washing by 
 rains. 
 
THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 29 
 
 THE PROPAGATION AND MULTIPLICATION OF VINES, 
 AND HOW TO PLANT THEM. 
 
 We have now presented to the reader various mat- 
 ters, such as location and preparation of the ground, 
 and we are now ready to actually start the vineyard. 
 How to do this, whether with cuttings or slips, or with 
 roots, or from the seed, are questions which sometimes 
 perplex speculative minds. 
 
 No plant, that I can now think of, is capable of so 
 varied means of propagation as the grapevine. A 
 grapevine can be propagated from the seed, from cu.t- 
 tings, by "layers," and by inoculation and grafting. 
 
 It is right and proper that those who have the means, 
 should experiment by raising vines from the seedj as 
 thereby we will get a greater variety of grapevines, 
 and such as will be permanently suitable to each re- 
 spective locality ; but it is not advisable, for any one 
 desirous to set out a vineyard, to attempt to get his 
 vines from the seed, because it will take from five to 
 ten years thus to get bearing vines, and because it is 
 next to impossible to get anything like regular rows by 
 such a method. 
 
 A very easy and advantageous multiplication of 
 vines may also be obtained by laying down, or sinking, 
 
 (29) 
 
80 THE VINE-DRESSER^S MANUAL. 
 
 from existing and growing vines, brandies, or side or 
 ground shoots, as shown in Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 The braneh marked a is a summer shoot, to raLse 
 grape roots, to be put down in June or July. That 
 marked Z) is a permanent layer, to be put down in the 
 fall, winter or spring. 
 
 Persons having grape arbors, or vineyards, may 
 thus multiply and spread them, in a very few years, 
 over a very large space of ground. If it is intended 
 to leave these layers in the ground where they are sunk, 
 it is necessary that they should be laid down as deep 
 as cuttings are, say twenty inches; but where these 
 "layers" are made with a view to have them form 
 roots, with a view to be transplanted to other locali- 
 ties, they may be sunk but about eight inches. Per- 
 manent "layers" are a convenient, and much to be 
 reconmaended method, to fill up any vacancies in a 
 
THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 81 
 
 vineyard, whicli may arise eitlier from the failure of 
 tlie planted cutting, or from some old grapevine being 
 seriously injured by storms, or other casualties. Such 
 " layers " must, after the first year, be half cut off from 
 the parent vine, and after the second, entirely, or else 
 they would injure the old vine. Those that are intended 
 for transplanting, after they shall have formed roots, 
 must be cut off the same season they are planted in the 
 flxll. I refer to the wood cut, Fig. 3, which I trust will 
 convey the proper meaning. 
 
 Grafting and inoculating grapevines is done under 
 the same rules as grafting and inoculating fruit trees 
 generally. The graft should, however, always be in- 
 serted a few inches under the ground into the stem. 
 I doubt whether either grafting or budding is to be 
 recommended, as a general rule, to raise a vineyard. 
 
 The safest and most advantageous propagation and 
 multiplication of vines, in planting a vineyard, is 
 through cuttings. They are easier obtained, and are 
 least expensive. I am free to say, that I prefer cut- 
 tings to grape roots, even at the same price, and for 
 the following reasons : They remain in that spot, where 
 they were first planted, and there at once permanently 
 form their roots. These first virgin roots, especially at 
 the foot, can never again be supplied by any second 
 growth. And again, grape roots are always, when 
 
 planted for sale, set out in the very richest ground, 
 2 
 
32 
 
 THE VINE-DRESSEIl'S MANUAL. 
 
 si^h as is loamy and well cultivated ; and it is easy to 
 imagine, that a vine, taken from sucli old, ricli soil, and 
 then transplanted into the raw, newly -spaded vineyard 
 ground, must necessarily receive a shock to their 
 growth, which must render them more short-lived than 
 vines grown from cuttings. A cutting remains in the 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Q 
 
 <J 
 
 Better cutting. 
 
 Best cutting, 
 with bud on oldwood. 
 
 vineyard, and its virgin roots are not torn off or in- 
 jured. This I regard of great importance. Grape 
 roots may bear one year earlier than cuttings ; but 
 beyond that much-coveted, and at best doubtful first 
 year, every consideration is in favor of the cutting. 
 
THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 33 
 
 Great care, however, should be taken in tlie selection 
 of cuttings, and the same must be said of '' roots." This 
 cut will assist the reader in guarding against imposition. 
 It represents three different qualities of cuttings. 
 We may lay down the following general rules : 
 1st. The vine from which you select your cutting 
 should be healthy, and those not more than ten nor less 
 than three years old. 
 
 2d. The wood of the cutting should be soundly ripe 
 of the early spring's growth of the previous year, and 
 not of the second growth, which appears in or after the 
 month of June. The part nearest to the old wood will 
 rarely fail to grow. Cut C represents such a cutting. 
 3d. The more joints or buds within a given length 
 the better. They should be closer together near the 
 lower end than the upper. 
 
 4th. The more compact the stemwood, the finer the 
 sap vessels, and the smaller the pith^ the better. Coarse 
 reedy cuttings, such as Cut A, are worth but little. 
 
 5th. Each cutting should be not less than twenty nor 
 more than twenty -four inches long. 
 
 6th. Old wood of more than one year's growth is 
 ansuitable for cuttings. 
 
 Cut with a sharp knife smoothly and nicely just 
 below the bud at the foot, being careful not to injure 
 the joint ; but above the upper bud, which is to form 
 the "head," leave about two inches of wood, so as to 
 
34 
 
 form a protection to tlie cutting when in tlie ground, 
 and that it may be held thereby when planting. 
 
 In taking off the first cutting from the old wood, the 
 foot should be the very first bud near, or, if possible, 
 upon the old wood, as in the best cutting, marked 
 letter 0. 
 
 That proper caution should be used to keep the cut- 
 tings right side up into the ground, will, I am sure, be 
 understood by all. The upper part of the cutting may 
 easily be ascertained by the upward pointing of the 
 bud. 
 
 The planting is now performed ; if by cuttings, two 
 to each hill, sometimes by making holes with a hoe or 
 spade as near as possible to the marhiiig sticky which 
 remains in its place. 
 
 The cuttings are then put in and covered carefully 
 with earth. 
 
 But there is ai^other, much speedier and equally good 
 method. Have one or two '■'■ stilts'^ made, about four 
 feet long and three inches thick, pointed with an iron 
 socket of about twenty-two inches length. See Figs. 
 5 and 6. 
 
 With these stilts the holes are made close to the 
 marking sticks two feet deep, and by moving the stilt 
 from side to side the hole can be made sufficiently 
 large. 
 
 There may be one hole to each cutting, or both cut- 
 
THE PROPAGATIOIS' OF VINES. 
 
 35 
 
 tings may be inserted at once in the same liole, taking 
 care to keep them separated by placing the fingers be- 
 tween them. 
 
 These holes are made as nearly perpendicular as 
 may be, and the cuttings are inserted deep enough to 
 have the upper bud one half an inch below the surface 
 
 Fia. 6. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 of the ground. The cut, Fig. 7, will illustrate the 
 position. 
 
 The cuttings are then held with one hand, while with 
 tlie other loose earth or sand is poured in, around and 
 
S6 
 
 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 between them. Then pour water into the hole suffi- 
 cient to "slmie" in the sand compactly around the 
 cuttings, at the same time avoid pressing with the feet 
 near to the hole, as this renders the ground hard. 
 
 If the holes are dug with the hoe or spade, the cut- 
 tings may be put in slanting always /ro?7i the hill, if the 
 surflice is not level, and slimed in as above. 
 
 Fig. T. 
 
 If the planting is made with grape roots, the same 
 care required by fruit trees should be given to have 
 all the bruised roots cut with a sharp knife, and the foot 
 roots carefully surrounded with fine earth, Avhile they 
 are spread in a natural position, and afterwards water is 
 poured around them. 
 
 No grape root or cutting should be planted after the 
 15th of May. They should be in the ground as much 
 
WHAT SPECIES TO CULTIVATE. 37 
 
 earlier as possible, if the season be favorable and the 
 ground is in proper order. Vineyards should never 
 be set out and planted in wet, slushy weather. 
 
 WHAT SPECIES OF GRAPEVINE SHALL WE CULTIVATE ? 
 
 In Europe this question is, and has ever been a 
 much disputed point. The great mass of the vintners 
 follow the traditions of their forefathers, and the vari- 
 ous governments as well as the societies for the im- 
 provement of wine have found it one of their most 
 insurmountable obstacles to overcome these traditional 
 predilections of the vintners. In Europe the govern- 
 ments have even gone so far as to prohibit by law the 
 planting of certain species of grape vines. These wine 
 *' reformers" through government, have, however, not 
 always been right. And yet it would be wrong not 
 to admit that they have done much good. All of us 
 know how easily a theorist, who has made himself the 
 " Sir Oracle" of a neighborhood, may succeed in get- 
 ting his notions adopted by other theorists, and Europe 
 is not exempt from similar results. In 1832, when I 
 left Germany, the "Eiessling" was the fashionable and 
 much approved grape. Four years ago when I return- 
 ed, it was then the '^ Traminer," and in 1853, I heard 
 one of the very wine reformers say, "that he actually 
 
88 
 
 believed, tliat a return to the ' old sorts' would stop tlie 
 progress of the grape sickness." If we take the trouble 
 to inquire, we should find that the "old sorts" are 
 grapevines adopted after much experience, and that 
 that experience, although the reasons for it may have 
 been lost, is often worth more than untried experiments. 
 I am not ojDposed to all experiments, but I do think 
 that persons who set out " vineyards" had better fol- 
 low the most approved beaten track of their time. 
 The men to experiment are nursery men. In Europe, 
 there are hundreds of varieties of grapes. Kot only 
 has each locality its own favorite, but they frequently 
 again change with each generation. These varieties 
 were all originally imported into, and exchanged be- 
 tween different portions of Europe. Hungary got some 
 of its vines from Greece and Asia Minor ; Germany 
 from Italy and Hungary ; France and Spain from all 
 parts of the Mediterranean ; and then again have all 
 exchanged with each other. A grape approved by 
 one country would be rejected in the other, and vice 
 versa. You can find the Hungarian Tookay in Ger- 
 many, a generally condemned grape, no doubt origin- 
 ally similar to the Malaga grape, and we may, on the 
 other hand, find the white and red Burgundy grape 
 much outside of France. Each imported grape was 
 again changed in each locality by soil, climate and 
 exposure. 
 
WHAT SPECIES TO CULTIVATE. 39 
 
 In tliis country, but two wine grapes have yet suc- 
 ceeded in establishing a permanent reputation, to wit : 
 — the Isabella and Catawba. 'No foreign grape has 
 yet been adopted by us, — or it may perhaps be bet- 
 ter said, none of them has yet adopted us. I have 
 three several times imported grapevines from my fa- 
 therland, — once also (in 1842) grape seeds; and in 
 1850, I brought with me, at much personal inconve- 
 nience and expense, a bundle of small fruit trees and 
 grapevines, weighing some fifty pounds. I carried 
 them myself from steamboat to steamboat, from car to 
 car ; I dipped them into the !Ni eckar, the Ehine, the 
 Weser, the Delaware, the Cumberland, and the Ohio, 
 not omitting even to wet them with the water distilled 
 from the sea by the steamers ; but all in vain, so far as 
 the grapevines were concerned. My pears, apricots, 
 plums, cherries, raspberries, have all grown finely — 
 but the grapevines and gooseberries would not be na- 
 turalized. A few sprouted, but only for a season. I 
 shall not be discouraged, but will try it again as soon 
 as they shall have a good wine season in Europe, 
 in which their wood and seed ripen fully. 
 
 On the whole, then, I would recommend to all who 
 may set out vineyards, to plant good sound Catawba 
 cuttings, taking care to buy only from healthy vine- 
 yards. That grape (be it native or imported) is the 
 best yet tried. Let all, however, experiment upon a 
 
40 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 separate patch, of ground, and on a small scale, tlirougli 
 Catawba seeds from especially healthy grapes, anp 
 through grafts, and by planting cuttings from Catawba 
 vineyards whose general character has been changed and 
 modified ; and such as are improved by a special good 
 location, a special good soil, a special good climate, or 
 a special good cultivation. Let some of us also keep 
 importing and cultivating grapevines, either from our 
 Western wilds or Western Europe, or any other place. 
 Thus, and thus only, will we get healthy varieties. 
 Experience will, as in Europe, ultimately settle down 
 on a few favorites, which will be called by many 
 local names, each of which will have its admirers. 
 And among these, the varieties of the Catawba 
 which w^ill hereafter arise, will always maintain their 
 ground. 
 
 The Isabella grows well in some localities in the 
 United States, especially New York ; but in the West- 
 ern States, the Catawba is preferable. 
 
 A most excellent plan in furtherance of getting va- 
 rieties, and one at which a good deal of money may 
 be made, is the establishment of a grapevine nursery. 
 Every vineyard owner should devote a small patch to 
 it, Avhere to set out annually, both for sale and a sup- 
 ply for his own vineyards, such cuttings as may ex- 
 hibit improved bearing qualities. Constant experi- 
 ments should also be made with the seeds from extra 
 
TEEATMENT OF A YOUNG VINEYARD. 41 
 
 healthy grapes. Through such means we should soon 
 have decidedly improved varieties of grapes. 
 
 If any one is desirous of starting a grape nursery, I 
 would suggest to him the following as a certain and 
 approved method : Have an arbor near your house, 
 lead a few branches of the gTapevine, well supplied with 
 good healthy grapes, when nearly ripe, into a room to be 
 warmed, and through this warmth dry the grapes upon 
 the vine, until they are completely shrivelled up. The 
 kernels are taken out and dried in the air, and 
 then planted out, five inches apart, in a bed, and cov- 
 ered with about a half inch of ground. Around and 
 upon the plants which may grow, the ground is grad- 
 ually raised, until after two or three years the stem 
 begins to form itself. When ready for transplanting, 
 it assumes the color of common yellow or brown 
 leather. Plants thus obtained are as good as cut- 
 tings, and will be sure to produce constantly new va- 
 rieties. 
 
 TREATMENT OF A YOUNG VINEYARD THE FIRST 
 THREE YEARS. 
 
 Li the First Year. 
 
 The new vineyard must, during the summer, be hoed 
 twice at least, and kept clear of weeds. Should there 
 
42 
 
 be severe drouglit, it would be well to water tlie 
 plants. If heavy rains sliould prevail, by wbicli the 
 plants should be covered with ground too deeply, then 
 they should be eased with great care, so as not to in- 
 jure, or expose too suddenly to the hot rays of the sun 
 the extremely tender sprouts, usual in such cases. As 
 soon as the sprouts have grown an inch or two, it is 
 well to stir the ground immediately around or near 
 the vine. It is very beneficial to the young vine, always 
 to have the ground well loosened and pulverized around 
 the head. In the fall, the plants which have sprouted, 
 are covered in colder climates. In southern Ohio, this 
 is hardly necessary. 
 
 Such vines, or cuttings, as fail to grow, must be sup- 
 plied in October following with grape roots, or new 
 cuttings, though grape roots are, in such cases, to be 
 preferred, as it gives more uniformity to the vineyard. 
 It is, therefore, well to plant in a separate grape nurs- 
 ery, an extra number of cuttings ; and the most thrifty 
 of these may then be used as the supplies for those 
 vacancies. 
 
 In the Second Year. 
 
 As soon as the weather will admit in the early spring, 
 the branches which may have grown during the pre- 
 ceding year, are trimmed down to one bud, whether 
 
TREATMENT OF A YOUNG VINEYAED. 
 
 43 
 
 the cuttings have produced more than one sprout or 
 not. That one bud should be upon or near the old 
 wood at the junction of the sprout trimmed off, and 
 ultimately becomes the ''Headf' the formation and 
 preservation of which is a matter of great moment, and 
 the object of trimming down to one bud is to provide 
 early for a proper "head" for each grapevine. 
 
 Fig. a 
 
 Fia. 9. 
 
 '^^^?^.^ 
 
 Second Spring before Pruning. 
 
 Second Spring after Pruning. 
 
 The earth is also removed from around the stem and 
 the surface roots cut off. 
 
 Fig. 8 represents the vine as it will appear, if well 
 grown, before the trimming in the second year, and 
 with the earth removed for eight to ten inches around 
 the stem, so as to remove the surface roots which may 
 
4:4: THE vixe-dresser's manual. 
 
 have grown. The branches and roots are to be cut 
 where marked. 
 
 Fig. 9 represents the vine after trimming. " 
 
 The sprouts which grow during the second year need 
 not be tied to stakes but left to be moved freely by the 
 winds, as this tends to strengthen the entire vine. Yery 
 few of such sprouts are ever blown off. 
 
 During this summer the vineyard is hoed twice. 
 
 Good vintners recommend pinching off the ends of 
 the sprouts after they have grown to the length of 
 twelve or fifteen inches. 
 
 There is no doubt that this promotes the growth and 
 ripening of the small wood, and it is also likely that 
 thereby the more thrifty vines will bear a few grapes 
 the season following ; but this practice is a hurrying 
 process, which may be adopted where the vines are very 
 forward, but had better, as a general thing, be avoided. 
 From the foot of each leaf stalk grow, during the sum- 
 mer, latteral shoots, which should be pinched off after 
 they form three leaves just beyond the second leaf, dur- 
 ing this and subsequent years, as directed in the part 
 relating to summer pruning. 
 
 Just as bad is the practice to trim the vine during 
 the second summer, with a view to make one or two 
 sprouts grow into long branches for bearirg wood for 
 the year following. I would say to all, don't hurry 
 your vines, if you want them to last well. 
 
TREATMENT OF A YOUNG VINEYARD. 
 
 45 
 
 In the Third Ye 
 
 ear. 
 
 The vines are again trimmed down to the lowest 
 bud, as in Fig. 10. At this time, it is well to apply 
 special manures, and to do everything tending to the 
 healthy development of the vine, as the season follow- 
 ing the first crop is expected. Some vintners leave 
 
 Fio 10. 
 
 Fio. 11. 
 
 '' ^4^"^ 
 
 f 
 
 ~..":^*-r^ V 
 
 .L: 
 
 
 Third Spring after Pruning. 
 
 M 
 
 ^i^ 
 
 . -^.vrli f-' 
 
 < 
 
 
 ' .■<- ■ ^5^ 
 
 Pruned with a view to premature bearing. 
 
 this season one or two ''spurs," as in Fig. 11, and by 
 extra manure push their vineyards into a premature 
 crop. Every grape thus obtained, will eventually have 
 to be paid for very dearly indeed; because nothing 
 tends more to the premature decay of vines, than such 
 an early deflowering of it. 
 
46 THE VINE-DEESSER's MANUAL. 
 
 Ill this year, too, one of the vines is removed, if both 
 cuttings have grown in any one hill. The healthiest 
 vine is retained, the other is removed. This should be 
 done with extreme care toward the vine which is in- 
 
 m 
 
 tended to remain. The grape roots thus taken out, 
 may be used to supply vacancies, or new vineyards, or 
 be sold to others. 
 
 The vineyard may now be supplied with "stakes," and 
 also preparation may be made for whatever system of 
 trimming may be adopted, (for which see the chapter fol- 
 lowing,) and to the stakes are fastened three or four of 
 the sprouts, which grow during the ensuing summer. 
 Should more than three or four grow, they must be re- 
 moved by pinching them off. During the third year, 
 I have found it not amiss, to pinch off the ends of 
 vines after August, when they have grown four or 
 more feet high, so as to ripen the wood. This should 
 be done only after the shoots have begun to turn brown 
 near the "head." 
 
 During this summer, the vineyard is also hoed 
 twice ; and especially is it good to give it an extra 
 hoeing in the fall, so as to avoid an early spring hoeing, 
 which on account of frosts had better be delayed till 
 after the 10th or 12th of May, with young vines espe- 
 cially. 
 
 In the fourth year the vineyard, if well treated, will 
 be in good bearing order. The vines should be 
 
TREATMENT OF A YOUNG VINEYARD. 
 
 47 
 
 trimmed as in Fig. 12. The spurs should not be 
 shorter than six or eight inches, nor longer than twelve 
 inches. Our vintners are apt to trim so as to leave 
 too much bearing wood the first bearing year. Let all 
 remember the rule, which pervades almost every part 
 of vegetable, and even animal life, that the age to 
 which animals or vegetables attain, is governed by the 
 length of time in which they arrive at maturity. The 
 slower the early growth, the longer and healthier is 
 
 Fio. 12. 
 
 after life. Living too fast in early youth, is sure to 
 produce early old age. 
 
 To trim the vine with "bows" this season, I regard 
 as a very pernicious policy no matter how thrifty the 
 vines may be. 
 
 Nor can I recommend the common practice of plant- 
 ing cabbage, corn, or other impoverishing crops in 
 
48 
 
 young vineyards. Daring the first year, such strangers 
 may be admitted; but forever thereafter, nothing but 
 grapevines have any business in a vineyard. 
 
 As a general rule, I may add, that the cleaner 
 the vines and ground are at all times kept, the 
 better. Never go into a vineyard in wet weather, nor 
 trim the vines while they are much wet. Keep the 
 ground mellow, and in the most superior tillable order. 
 Keep out of a vineyard, unless you have special busi- 
 ness in it. The less one walks about in it, the better. 
 To walk about a vineyard, after a rain, must do it 
 serious injury. Keep visitors and the idly curious also 
 out of your vineyard. No man or woman has any 
 business in a vineyard, except the vine-dresser, and he 
 only when working or tending it. 
 
 The manner of putting these in, and the manner oj 
 staking out a vineyard^ is a matter of more moment than 
 is generally supposed. Vineyards are often much dis- 
 figured by too heavy and unsightly stakes, resembling 
 fence-rails, which are also injurious from the heavy 
 shade they cast. Stakes should be perfectly straight, 
 well seasoned, and not more than two inches square. 
 
"vineyard stakes." 49 
 
 Thej should be made of hard wood, such as oak or 
 locustf Care should be had that the roots of the vines 
 be not injured when putting them in. In Europe, 
 stakes are made about one inch square, often of pine 
 wood, and taken out in the fall, and reset every spring. 
 This treatment preserves them much. 
 
 The stakes must be set in to suit the particular trim 
 of the grapevine, so as to afford fair access to warmth 
 and light. 
 
 Where four thighs, or rather four long spurs, are 
 carried to each vine — (a favorite mode of trimming of 
 late in Grermany, and one well suited to level, heavy 
 soils)— the thighs should then be only twelve to four- 
 teen inches long, with spurs on them for bearing wood, 
 and no bows, leaving upon each spur four or five buds, 
 or twenty altogether on the vine. The stakes need not 
 be more than three feet high above the ground. They 
 are then set out thus : 
 
 Stake. 
 
 o 
 Head. 
 Stake, o O o Stake. 1^* South. 
 
 o 
 
 Stake 
 
 Where three thighs are carried — the favorite Elsa- 
 3 
 
50 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 tian and Swabian methods — the stakes should be five 
 and a half feet high above ground and set out tjhus : 
 
 o Stake. 
 Stake, o O Head. 1^=* South. 
 o Stake. 
 
 Where two thighs are carried, the stakes should be 
 six feet high above ground, and set out thus : 
 
 Head. 
 Stake, o O o Stake. |^" South. 
 
 being careful to get them into perfectly straiglit rows, 
 and one foot each way from the head. This method 
 and the trellis described below, are the two which I 
 would recommend as the best, and are those which I 
 have adopted. The trellis, however, is better adapted 
 to the growing of table grapes than grapes for wine. 
 
 A method very much pi'acticed in the vicinity of 
 Cincinnati, is to have a single stake with one " bow" 
 and one "spur ;" the spur being trimmed down to two 
 or three buds, the shoots from which furnish the spur 
 and bow for the next year. See Fig. 13. 
 
 The general principles laid down for pruning on two 
 stakes may be easily modified and applied to this and 
 other methods. 
 
 Where one thigh is carried, with one "bow" and 
 two or three spurs, it is customary to have three stakes 
 
VINEYARD STAKES. 
 
 .1 
 
 to eacli vine — one about six feet above ground, j ast at 
 the head, to which the bow is fastened, and two others 
 about four feet long above ground, and a foot each way- 
 north and south from it. 
 
 Fia. 18. 
 
 The prevailing mode in the Palatinate along the 
 Rhine, is beginning to be largely adopted in the United 
 
 States. 
 
52 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 This cut, Fig. 14, represents several modes of train- 
 ing upon trellises. As they are all reducible to the 
 same general principles of trimming, the particular 
 shape is unimportant. 
 
 a Represents the top cross piece sixteen feet long and 
 five feet above the ground. 
 
 h Represents cross piece of same length and two feet 
 above ground. 
 
 A vineyard thus staked out, with the method of 
 trimming adopted in these pages, I regard as decidedly 
 the best. It may be the most expensive at first, but 
 it must eventually be adopted generally in the United 
 States, because it will suit more localities than any 
 other. 
 
 The easiest way to put vineyard stakes into the 
 ground is to have a good sound, tough piece of oak 
 wood, as described in a former chapter for putting in 
 cuttings, say four feet long, three inches through at 
 the upper end, tapering toward the lower end, and 
 supplied with a heavy iron socket about eighteen 
 inches long. With this holes are punched into the 
 ground, at the proper places, about eighteen inches 
 deep for the long, heavy stakes, and about ten to 
 twelve inches for the shorter and lighter ones, and into 
 these holes the stakes are inserted, having been pre- 
 viously sharpened. Through this method few or no 
 roots are injured. Charring the ends of the stakes is 
 
"vineyard stakes." 53 
 
 an excellent preservative, and I have heard the refuse 
 oil purchased at gas-works also favorably spoken of. 
 
 The stakes should be well rammed in, and fastened 
 by punching the earth to them at the surface of the 
 ground. Every spring they should be carefully re- 
 fastened, after being straightened up, and examined to 
 see whether the part in the ground is sound yet. 
 Those of which it may be feared that they will not last 
 through the season, had better be taken out and reset 
 by putting the sound end into the ground, or replaced 
 by new ones. Nothing is more annoying and injuri- 
 ous than to have a whole lot of vines blown down after 
 every heavy shower. 
 
 The plan of setting stakes in a vineyard, sprung, 
 doubtless, from the observation made, that a grape- 
 vine, and especially its fruit, is very apt to get injured 
 if left to the mercy of the winds and rain, and dragged 
 about in the mud. The fruit by being elevated from 
 the ground is less subject to the depredations of 
 insects and rabbits, as well as less liable to rot and 
 other diseases. I have already indicated that one 
 great object is also so to set off the vine, with its foliage, 
 &c., as to admit, according to the particular manner of 
 training, the proper effects of sun and atmosphere. 
 
 A vineyard badly and slovenly staked out will be 
 an eye-sore to a good vintner, even at a distance ; 
 while, on the other hand, one well and artistically 
 
54 
 
 staked out, will gladden the eye of every one that sees 
 it. A slovenly vintner is certain to be detected in this 
 very point, and I want no better evidence of a good 
 vintner than to see him particularly nice in staking 
 out his vineyard. 
 
 What system of trimming to adopt for the vines is 
 oftener a matter of fancy than of actual propriety. I 
 have, in this chapter, treated of various methods ; in 
 the next I shall particularly describe that which, in my 
 opinion, deserves universal adoption. The reader can, 
 from the cuts given in this and the following chapter, 
 find a safe guide, whether he should choose the method 
 recommended by me, or any other. I do not think it 
 necessary to describe these others more fully, because 
 I am satisfied that any intelligent reader can, if he 
 will but read carefully this and the next chapter, and 
 if he will apply the general rules laid down practically, 
 vary the trim of his vineyard to suit the particular 
 locality, or fancy, as the case may be. I wish to avoid, 
 also, if possible, perplexing the reader, and I therefore 
 indicate to him the method which my own experience 
 points out as the best. At the same time, I have also 
 named other methods, upon which it may be well to 
 '''"experiment^'''' after the reader shall have had some ex- 
 perience in vine-dressing. 
 
TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 65 
 
 TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES IN THE FOURTH 
 YEAR. 
 
 This TDrancb. of a Yine-dresser's labors, whether for 
 young or old vines, being an interference with, and an 
 artificial regulation of, nature, requires more of his 
 skill, judgment, and neatness, than any other. Its ob- 
 ject is two-fold: 
 
 1st. To secure each summer a proper amount of ma- 
 ture bearing-wood for the next and subsequent years, 
 and by thus concentrating upon particular parts of the 
 vine all its fructifying powers, preserve it in a healthy, 
 vigorous condition. 
 
 2d. To improve the quality of the fruit, whether 
 intended for the table or for the making of wine. 
 
 The instruction upon this subject would best be 
 given with the grapevine before us. We will en- 
 deavor to supply this by cuts, and if the reader will 
 only, with this book in hand, himself learn practically 
 how to trim his grapevine, we have strong assurance 
 that, in a very few seasons, he will be a successful 
 trimmer. 
 
 An opinion is prevalent, which I must notice very 
 briefly. It is that grapevines should not be trimmed 
 at all. This opinion springs from that superficial 
 notion, that the experience of European vine-dressers 
 is of little consequence here, and that the treatment of 
 
56 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 American vines on American soil should be entirely 
 different. I can only say, that wild grapes may 
 be seen in our woods, and in Asia even at this day, and 
 by comparing with them the cultivated grape, this 
 error will readily be discarded. Perseverance through 
 centuries has improved the grape to what it is. The 
 experience of European vine-dressers is that of their 
 predecessors, the Asiatics, as may be learned even out 
 of the Bible, modified, to be sure, but modified with 
 reason and judgment, as we should again modify. The 
 writer of this has seen hundreds of acres of vineyards 
 in this country, and he would unhesitatingly say, that 
 the best vineyards, — not for a season or two, but for 
 ten (and no doubt fifty) years, — are those which are in 
 the hands of such vine-dressers as follow carefully, and 
 systematically, the most approved European modes of 
 trimming. I do not mean, thereby, such as follow 
 blindly and mechanically, but such as, having studied 
 and examined European practice, have adapted it to 
 their own locality and circumstances, being able to un- 
 derstand its principles and apply them. 
 
 We will endeavor to make the matter as plain as 
 possible, both in this chapter as in those that follow 
 upon this subject. The reader will remember, that if 
 the grapevine has been properly taken care of and 
 trimmed, it will in the spring of the fourth year pre- 
 sent the following appearance : 
 
TKIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 
 
 57 
 
 Eacli "spur" intended for a "thigh" should be not 
 less than six nor more than ten inches long, leaving at 
 least two and not more than three joints and buds upon 
 it. The head will be well formed and of good size, and 
 care will have been taken to get the thighs to grow 
 out of the sides of the head rather than its centre. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 After trimming the foarth year, being ready for bearing. 
 
 From the buds marked 1, 2, 3, on each thigh, will, 
 during summer, grow shoots. Those upon 1 and 2 
 should be carefully tied up to the stake. The shoots 
 3* 
 
58 
 
 THE VINE-DRESSEK S MANUAL. 
 
 growing out of 8, or wliicli may grow out of the head, 
 should, after two leaves have formed upon them, be 
 pinched off above and beyond the two leaves. 
 
 Upon all these shoots at the joints, little twigs or lat- 
 teral branches, marked a in Fig. 16, grow in the early 
 part of summer. 
 
 FiQ 16. 
 
 These must all be removed by hand just above the 
 first small leaf where it is marked in the cut. The 
 leaves at the junction of the latterals with the branch 
 should be carefully preserved, however. 
 
 This tends to ripen the branch into good sound 
 bearing wood, for if these laterals were not removed, 
 it would weaken the intended bearing wood the next 
 
TRIMMING YOUNG BEARING VINES. 
 
 .9 
 
 season. The vine will in the fall, after the leaves shall 
 have fallen off, if thus trimmed, look thus : 
 
 Fig. it. 
 
 In the fall of the fourth year. 
 
 Here, then, are two brandies upon each spur or thigh 
 for bearing wood. One such would really be enough, 
 but two are trained, first, to have a spare one in case of 
 accident or loss, and for a spur for the season following, 
 and second, to leave sufficient wood and leaves upon the 
 vine, so as not to restrain its growth too much. It is, 
 as already stated, not desirable to have the bearing 
 wood too rank, which would surely be the case if the 
 vine were trimmed too close during summer. There 
 
60 
 
 THE vine-dresser's MANUAL. 
 
 are, also, both upon the head and the thighs, small 
 shoots with one bud each, which are left there to the 
 length above pointed out, so as to keep the joint alive 
 for future use, and to prevent its closing by becoming 
 gnarled over. 
 
 The next point is how to trim such a vine during 
 the winter or spring following. The rule is to cut the 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 In the Spring of the fifth year after trimming. 
 
 thriftiest, and if possible the upper bl'anch a, down to 
 from five to eight buds or joints for the bows, and if the 
 lower branch remain, to trim it down, leaving one bud 
 or joint for spurs, and to cut all the remaining branches 
 
HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. 61 
 
 away, close to the joint of tlie tliigh, not injuring, how- 
 ever, the bud, which may be upon the thigh itself or 
 upon the head. The trimmed vine will resemble 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 The vine may now be said to have reached the dig- 
 nity of an adult, being ready for the duties of its use- 
 ful life. 
 
 Its pruning and treatment during the following sum- 
 mer and winter, will be described in another chapter. 
 
 HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. 
 
 Before entering more fully into detail about trim- 
 ming, it maybe well to describe the manner of making 
 bows. 
 
 While the hoeing and ploughing may be entrusted 
 to any laborer having a general idea of work, so he be 
 one not apt to shirk work, or slur it over, it is differ- 
 ent with bow-making. This requires much practice 
 and skill, or else much damage will be done, by break- 
 ing the branches. 
 
 The bows should be formed before the buds swell, or 
 else many of them will be stripped off by even a 
 careful workman — the great point being to have them 
 as round as possible, and all breaks and sharp bends 
 should be carefully avoided. Morning is the best time, 
 
62 
 
 THE VINE-DRESSER'S MANUAL. 
 
 because tlie vines then bend easy. In the afternoon 
 they are dryer, and hence more apt to break. Taking 
 the end of the vine in one hand and the part immedi- 
 ately following the " thigh," in the other, and while 
 passing the vine round with the one hand, pressing it 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 Tying the Vines to the Stakes. 
 
 into form by following it out from joint to joint with 
 the thumb of the other hand, and then tying the end 
 with a willow, is the usual mode. 
 
 The object of bending the vine into a bow, is to 
 equalize the sap to all the buds, as otherwise the sap 
 
HOW TO BEND THE BOWS. 63 
 
 would flow too much to the top. Half bows, in half 
 circles, are also frequently adopted, and answer a good 
 purpose. 
 
 In connection herewith, I would recommend to every 
 person owning land, especially where it is intended to 
 have a vineyard, to plant out a wil!ow patch. They 
 need little or no cultivation. Simply pushing twigs 
 about two feet long, fifteen inches into the ground, and 
 with only two or three inches sticking out of the 
 ground, similar to grapevines, about five feet apart, 
 (the wetter the ground the better,) is all that is re- 
 quired for starting them. After they have grown, 
 they should be trimmed back pretty close to the stump, 
 annually ; and fifty willow bushes will yield enough 
 for all the purposes of an acre of yineyard, and leave 
 some for basket-making and other purposes about a 
 farm. 
 
 The yellow basket willow is the best, though it is 
 well to have a few bushes of the long black willow, as 
 they are the best for sale. Slips may now be had for 
 little or nothing, in the neighborhood of Cincinnati ; 
 and let me add, that willow-planting pays well, as 
 basket-makers are getting numerous, and pay a good 
 price. 
 
 As soon as the stakes are driven in, the bows must 
 be tied to them ; but not helter skelter as some do. The 
 more careful the bows and branches are fastened, the 
 8* 
 
64 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 easier is the subsequent labor of summer trimming, 
 which, will be more fully explained in another chapter. 
 It generally happens, that the vintners are rather late 
 in getting the vine to the stake, and in performing 
 this, the last labor of spring. This done, the vintner 
 feels much lighter, <is the buds are by that time more 
 or less forward. The person entrusted with this labor 
 should therefore be more than usually careful, or else 
 he will break off the main buds and do irreparable injury. 
 Good, strong willow twigs should be used for this 
 work. But mark this : — do not tie the vine so tight 
 as to stop the flow of the sap and to check the after- 
 growth of the thigh and bearing branch. I have 
 known vines to be sadly girdled by too tight t3ring. 
 Do not tie the end of the bow too tight to the thigh, as 
 otherwise the sap may be completely stopped and the 
 bow deprived of proper nourishment. I need not add, 
 that too loose tying is also to be avoided. 
 
 ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 
 
 This important labor, whether for young or old vines, 
 should be done early — if possible before the first of 
 March — at any rate before. the sap begins to flow ; be- 
 cause through late trimmings much sap is lost, and in 
 
ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 65 
 
 consequence thereof the vine is apt to become sickly, 
 and to decay even. It wonld be well if our vintners 
 would use all the pleasant days through the winter 
 for this purpose ; but trimming too early is not to be 
 recommended. We have, in the United States, very 
 warm days during autumn, in which the sap is apt to 
 rise in the vines, enough to swell some of the best buds. 
 Such buds, if the vines were trimmed in the fall, would 
 be sure to be frosted during winter. The outermost 
 buds are also liable to dry out ; and hence, I would 
 designate February as the best time for trimming 
 grapevines. 
 
 Before trimming, it is proper to remove the earth 
 from around the head, so as to expose for three or four 
 inches the "stem." This is necessary, so that the 
 " trimmer " may, by examining the thickness of the 
 " stem," have a safe guide as to the quantity of bearing- 
 wood to be left to the vine. This the German vintners 
 call "loading the vine heavy or light," ^'•vieloder wenig 
 aufladeny The " surface roots " growing annually out of 
 the head, are now cut away, so as to leave the head 
 nice and clean of weeds, sprouts and roots. But I 
 must here remark, that I doubt the propriety of 
 going down to the third joint on the "stem," below the 
 "head," and there cutting off the "roots." Many 
 vintners do this, for the purpose of furthering tho 
 growth of the " foot-roots." I incline to the opinion 
 
6Q 
 
 that the practice was adopted, because it accidentally 
 proved successfal from some local cause ; and I can 
 well imagine peculiar circumstances under whicli the 
 practice may be right ; but, as a general rule, I would 
 warn against it. I have taken up many grapevines, 
 from five to ten years old, and I can say, from practical 
 experience, that those vines were thriftiest upon whose 
 "stem" not only the "foot-roots," but also the "side- 
 roots," were in good condition ; and this is almost cer- 
 tain to be the case if the ground has been spaded up 
 and turned over deep enough. 
 
 Ill " trimming " grapevines, due regard must be 
 had to the species of the grapevine — the soil — the 
 exposure — the age — the strength — the fertility of the 
 soil — and last, though not least, the j)0ssible injuries 
 likely to happen to a vine, from storms or accidental 
 mistakes of the vintner himself In this labor Frank- 
 lin's motto should be ever present: " What is fit to be 
 done at all, is fit to be well done." Great care and nice 
 judgment are requisite, and no bungler has any business 
 in a vineyard. 
 
 The object of trimming is to remove all superfluous 
 wood, and thereby strengthen the vine, so as to render 
 it long-lived, and capable of bearing and ripening the 
 proper quantity of grapes. 
 
 Vines which have a tendency to generate much wood, 
 as all American vines have, should be " loaded" heavy; 
 
ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 
 
 67 
 
 that is, more 'bearing wood sliould be left. The better, 
 or rather heavier the soil, the greater the load the vines 
 will bear. In light, warm soils, vines should be load- 
 ed very lightly. Young vines, up to the sixth year, 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 should be trimmed close, it being true of grapevines, 
 as of our youth, "that early curbing is a guaranty of 
 a healthy, mature age." Old vines should be dealt 
 with very gently. Then they may give little, but good, 
 
68 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 wholesome wine. Frosted vines, or sucli as have been 
 injured by hail, or other accidents, must be trimmed 
 back, so as to provide for " new growth " in every in- 
 jured part. 
 
 The preceding cut, Fig. 20, represents a grapevine as 
 it is late in the fall, when a good vintner has attended 
 to it during the preceding summer. 
 
 The reader will see, that the vine has two vineyard 
 stakes, say about two feet apart, and that the vine has 
 two "Thighs," which is as much as any vine should 
 be asked to keep up. At the end of the " Thighs " 
 are the " Bows," which were the " chief bearing wood " 
 of the season previous. At the first joint above the 
 " Thigh," Bearing Wood No. 1 is perceived. This 
 was left, by the good vintner, to be trimmed down to 
 six or eight joints, or buds, and to form from it the 
 Bow, or Chief Bearing Wood, for the ensuing summer. 
 The reader will also see Bearing Wood No. 2, which 
 grew out a " Spur," left upon each thigh the spring 
 previous. 
 
 This Bearing Wood, No. 2, is trimmed down to two 
 joints, and will form the chief spur for this season. 
 Out of this spur it is intended to train the Bearing 
 Wood No. 1, for the succeeding year, say in 1855 for 
 1856, of which more hereafter. The reader will also 
 perceive a shoot marked " Wood for Spur," which 
 should be trimmed down to one joint, or bud, so as to 
 
ON TRIMMING GENERALLY. 69 
 
 have an extra spur ready if accidentally it should be 
 needed, for renovating the vine with new Bearing 
 Wood. The reader will also perceive two " Ground 
 Shoots." One of these must be cut away, while one 
 
 Fich 21. 
 
 of them had better be trimmed down to three or four 
 joints, so as to have it ready, in case either one of the 
 thighs should be broken off. Such a ground shoot 
 
70 
 
 should also be trained, wherever sound judgment prog- 
 nosticates the probable future unfitness of existing 
 thighs. 
 
 The chief spurs will each bear a few grapes, often 
 the best. 
 
 We will now give a cut as the vine should look if 
 trimmed right, believing that this will furnish nearly 
 as correct information as if the instruction were given 
 before the vine itself. 
 
 Fig. 21 represents a grapevine, over six years old, 
 having a stem two inches or more thick, and healthy 
 throughout ; and bearing this in mind, one may add 
 to, or lighten the " ZoacZ," as good sense will dictate. 
 Few vintners succeed in having all their vines in just 
 such perfection. The vines will vary more or less ; 
 but the cut will give the general idea. 
 
 K the reader will now compare the trimmed vine 
 with the previous cut, he will easily see what must be 
 cut away : namely, the old bow, and all other super- 
 fluous wood. I need not add, that every vine bears 
 small shoots, not marked down on the first cut; be- 
 cause, to put them there would have perplexed the 
 reader. All such must be trimmed away. 
 
 Should the grapevine to be trimmed be a neglected 
 one, and it is intended to start it right anew, then the 
 above cut will, with the explanations, give a general 
 idea how to bring this about. 
 
HOW TO CULTIVATE THE SOIL. 71 
 
 Never put a " Spur " above the " Bearing Wood," 
 or " Bow," or, as the European vintners have it, " Never 
 put the apprentice above the master," a saying in which 
 lies the whole idea of so trimming as to have the proper 
 number of apprentices ready below, to become subse- 
 quent masters. The thighs should never be shorter 
 than eight or ten inches, nor longer than four feet ; nor 
 should the bows have more than ten to twelve buds, 
 nor the spurs more than two or three buds. No vine 
 should have more than three thighs — two is enough ; 
 nor any one thigh more than one bow, and two spurs, 
 (one will generally be enough.) Should it be intended 
 to get ''Layers/' it is best to train ground shoots for 
 the purpose. 
 
 HOW TO CULTIVATE THE SOIL OF A VINEYAKD. 
 
 Before any cultivation of the ground, the vineyard 
 should be cleared of all offals from the previous trim- 
 ming. These offals should be packed down in those 
 spots in the vineyard which have a tendency to wash. 
 They may be used for these purposes in other locali- 
 ties. In Germany, they are gathered up for firewood, 
 as was the old custom in Judea. I have found them 
 most excellent in smoking hams and meat generally, 
 and fancied they gave to meat a better flavor. 
 
72 • THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 The soil of a vineyard should never be cultivated 
 except in dry, warm weather. The drier and warmer, 
 the better. This should especially be the rule in the 
 spring, as ground broken up wet subjects the plants 
 near to injury from even the lightest foot-prints. The 
 rule for breaking ground, in the spring, is simply 
 this: Cultivate as soon as the ground is dry, and 
 warm weather sets in ; and don't cultivate, no matter 
 how late you have to wait, until fair weather does set 
 in, and the ground is dry. Don't be in too great a 
 hurry, but improve every fair opportunity. If you 
 delay too long, the buds will swell, and then they are 
 very apt to fall ojff on even slight shaking. 
 
 Whether hoes, ploughs, or cultivators are proper 
 tools, must be determined by circumstances; and they 
 will guide every person having any idea of the cultiva- 
 tion of soil generally. The great point is thorough- 
 ness — that is, in turning over every part of the soil, 
 and the most careful attention towards the destruction 
 of all weeds, particularly around the head of the Vine. 
 In the spring, the ground should be broken up at least 
 six inches deep, and the rougher the clods are left the 
 better, so that they are fully turned. Eain and warmth 
 will thus penetrate deeper ; the ground will wash less, 
 and the clods will be ready to fall entirely to pieces 
 when the second cultivation takes place. The two- 
 pronged hoe, {Jcarsch, in German,) is, in my opinion, the 
 
VINES OK TRELLISES. 73 
 
 best instrument for this purpose. A good sTiovel- 
 plough may work for the second, and a cultivator for 
 the third operation. The first should take place before 
 the middle of May, or latest, the first of June ; the 
 second, as soon after the vines are through blossoming, 
 and the third early in the fall, (but not in the dog-days 
 says an old vintner at my elbow,) a traditionary rule, for 
 which it may be hard to give a scientific reason, but 
 which I found true to my sorrow, in two instances in 
 which I acted counter to the rule. In each case my 
 vineyard lost more or less of its foliage, and all of its 
 rich, green tint. 
 
 There are, as yet, no old vineyards in the United 
 States ; but it may be well to mention that old vine- 
 yards must be cultivated with greater care than young 
 ones ; and their roots, even when near the surface, should 
 not be needlessly torn up and injured. 
 
 The same care should also be had in the fall cultiva- 
 tion, so as to disturb as little as possible the tender sur- 
 face-roots, which grow annually out of the head.- 
 
 VINES ON TRELLISES. 
 
 In the preceding pages, the mode described is appli- 
 cable particularly for vineyards intended for the 
 manufacture of wine. If the object should be, how- 
 
74 
 
 ever, to raise grapes merely for table use — either for 
 one's family or for market — a different mode, in some 
 respects, may well be pursued, and instead of training 
 the vines upon stakes, trellise work may be adopted. 
 
 I may say that. the mode of staking out, indicated as 
 the Palatinate method. Fig. 14, may form the general 
 basis for trellises. The vines, instead of being four feet 
 apart, should then be from eight to twelve, and the 
 stakes or posts at least eight feet long above ground. 
 
 For trellis planting, I would specially recommend, 
 never to plant close to the walls of houses or fences, 
 since such close planting injures the building, and be- 
 sides, subjects vines to all kinds of insects which are 
 apt to prey upon them. It impedes, also, the proper 
 cultivation at all seasons of the year. The distance 
 from houses and walls should be at least four feet, and 
 the trellises formed over shaded walks, which may be 
 made in almost endless variety. Such trellises should 
 be on the south side of houses, &c., and every chance 
 afforded for air and sun to operate upon every part of 
 the vine. The early training of the vines is similar to 
 the mode already described, except that they should 
 be planted not less than eight feet apart. Less care need 
 betaken for the formation of the "head," near the 
 ground, and less attention need be paid to the boughs, 
 as well as to the renovation of the thighs. Some form 
 the head three to five feet from the ground, and then 
 
VINES ON TRELLISES. 75 
 
 train two horizontal thighs out of it, upon which 
 thej trim in winter, four to eight spurs. Others, 
 again, trim for full bows — others for half bows, 
 with more or less spurs in all cases. The general 
 idea is, that being less restrained as to room, par- 
 ticularly along walks and around houses, less strict 
 rules are followed as to trimming, it being varied ac- 
 cording to circumstances. Summer trimming is almost 
 invariably entirely dispensed with, unless, indeed, a 
 regular vineyard is planted out upon this principle. 
 Reading the preceding pages will indicate the general 
 rules. Instead of thighs, branches, &;c., the vine will 
 then be divided into main and side stems, and 
 branches with half bows and often even without smj 
 bows, and relying for bearing wood only upon spurs. 
 Where a vine is intended to be drawn up as high as 
 the roof of a two-storied house, the vine had better be 
 trained upon the two- story principle also, by forming, 
 if I may say so, a two-storied main stem. 
 
 To train a vine some twelve to fifteen feet straight 
 up, engenders its rapid growth, and imparts to it a 
 heavy, rich foliage, but such vines are seldom good 
 bearers. 
 
 It is in accordance with long experience — one that 
 has never failed — that bending the bearing wood pro- 
 motes its bearing qualities, and equally useful are all 
 checks to the too rapid upward flow of the sap. 
 
76 
 
 Should sucli trellised vines be planted in too fat 
 garden or hot-bed ground, they would grow very 
 thriftily in their earlier years ; and if this rapid growth 
 tends to loading them early with too much bearing 
 wood, such vines will soon become sickly, and almost 
 invariably their fruit becomes distasteful, and their 
 foliage assumes a disagreeable color. It is far better 
 to have less rich soil. 
 
 There is a tendency in the United States towards 
 trellis planting for all grapevines. For table grapes 
 this is all right, but we need never expect to make 
 good wine from them. Trellised vines bear a larger 
 crop, and the grapes are more palatable to the taste ; 
 but the wine made from them is insipid. I cannot, 
 perhaps, furnish a better illustration of what I mean, 
 than by reminding the reader of cider made out of na- 
 tural fruit, and compared with that made out of fine 
 table apples — ^the latter being far inferior. 
 
 In Europe, they, therefore, plant upon trelHses near 
 large cities certain peculiar varieties of special table 
 grapes, which bear large and early fruit. The " Chas- 
 selas," in French, or the German " Grutedel," (good and 
 noble,) are preferred for this purpose. I imported of 
 them both slips and roots twice, but lost them each 
 time in the second or third winter. The Burgundy, 
 Muscatel, and Malvasier grape are also excellent table 
 grapes for trellises. In this country the Isabella ripens 
 
SUMMER TRIMMING. 77 
 
 very unequally in vineyards when trained on stakes. 
 It does better on trellises. The Catawba will also 
 answer when trained on trellises for table fruit. 
 
 SUMMER TRIMMING. 
 
 This labor is in German called Zwicken, which, 
 being literally translated, means pinching with the 
 forefinger and thumb. It is also sometimes called 
 Ausbrechen (breaking off), because the main object of 
 it iS; to break off or remove all unnecessary branches, 
 so that the retained useful branches may grow more 
 thriftily, and that the grapes may thereby become more 
 perfect and ripe, by receiving freely the effects of sun 
 and air. Care must be taken that the growing grape 
 be not without its due protection from leaves, as will 
 presently be explained. 
 
 This labor requires much practical skill, judgment, 
 and experience. Errors in winter trimming, or acci- 
 dental losses, may now be remedied by an expert sum- 
 mer trimmer, by promoting, at the proper places, those 
 shoots which the vine stands in need of. Errors in 
 su.mmer trimming are harder to remedy, for obvious 
 reasons. Whoever, therefore, attempts trimming in 
 summer should fully understand winter trimming, for 
 
78 
 
 THE VINE-DEESSEk's MANUAL. 
 
 the two operations are intimately connected. In sum- 
 mer trimming, the vine-dresser must have regard for 
 the trim which is to follow the succeeding winter. 
 
 One important point in this matter is to know where^ 
 that is, at what part of the vine, to leave the shoots 
 
 Fio. 22. 
 
 untrimmed, and which shoots to trim awa}^. Some 
 retain simply the thriftiest branches, regardless of the 
 place they grow upon, which is a great error. If the 
 bows are properly fastened to the stakes, the shoots 
 
SUMMER TRIMMING. 79 
 
 not to be trimmed will stand immediately upon or near 
 tlie stake. See Fig. 22. 
 
 The shoots, of which one or two are intended to be 
 retained for bearing wood and other purposes, for the 
 seasons following, being marked 1, 2, and 3, a shoot 
 will also generally be retained upon each spur, and is 
 marked a. Great care must be had not to retain for 
 these purposes the shoots growing out of the buds 
 marked B ; being so near those marked ISTo. 1 and 2, 
 they are apt to be mistaken for tliem. How many 
 shoots to retain cannot be stated definitely — that de- 
 pends upon the relative strength, age, and vigor of 
 each vine. For a vigorous vine three shoots may Veil 
 be left — that is, two upon each of the bows of those 
 marked 1, 2, and 3, and one upon each spur as marked 
 a ; and also trim one, whenever this can be done, out 
 of the "Head" marked C, the object of the latter being 
 to be prepared for renovating the " thighs." For an 
 old, decrepit, or sickly vine, two or three new shoots 
 would be enough. A good vine-dresser knows that 
 there must be no attempt to have the foliage dispropor- 
 tionate to the stem and roots below the ground. 
 . AVhich shoots to trim may be gathered from the pre- 
 ceding remarks. They are marked 5 and upwards. 
 Should there be grapes upon any of them, then they 
 should be so pinched off as to leave one leaf at least, if 
 not two, beyond the outer grape. In fact, no shoot 
 
80 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 should be entirely broken off — one or two leaves should 
 always be retained. 
 
 To keep the vine in good bearing order, it is abso- 
 lutely necessary so to trim or dress the vine in summer 
 as to enable the winter trimmer to renovate constantly, 
 and to replace entirely the thighs every four to six 
 years. No "thigh" should be older than five years. 
 Then it should be replaced by an entirely new one. 
 Hence the lowest shoots, marked 1, 2, and 3, are re- 
 tained npon the bows, and hence, too, one shoot is re- 
 tained upon each of the spurs, marked a — ^these being 
 intended for gradual renovation, while the ground 
 shoots, marked C, are intended for entirely new 
 "thighs," being dressed up and trained for that pur- 
 pose, as directed for young vines. I need hardly re- 
 peat here, what I have said already, that both trimming 
 too high or too low are both extremes to be avoided. 
 
 More shoots are dressed up and retained than are 
 needed for the succeeding winter trimming, and that is 
 done both for the purpose of having a surplus in case 
 of accident, and also to give the trimmer a choice, so 
 that in examining the stem and roots, he may, when his 
 vine is unobstructed by foliage, judge more clearly 
 which are the most desirable branches for each respec- 
 tive vine. 
 
 When this labor is to be performed cannot be indi- 
 cated by general rule. As soon as the shoots are 
 
SUMMER TRIMMING. 
 
 81 
 
 twelve or fourteen inches long, it is time to trim tliem, 
 and dress and fasten tliem up. If too long delayed, a 
 heavy storm might break off a good many of them, 
 and thus prove a sad summer trimmer. Most gene- 
 rally, the proper time is in the latter part of May, or 
 early in June. 
 
 Fio. 24. 
 
 A vine well trimmed- 
 
 A vine badly trimmed. 
 
 Let me repeat here the well-known fact, that the 
 foliage is the gTeat regulator of all vegetation in sum- 
 mer. A good vine-dresser knows, by the very color 
 of the leaf, the amount of foliage required by the vine. 
 Some difference should also be made between dry and 
 rainy seasons. Every grape should have some leaf 
 
82 
 
 over it, to give it shade, and to aid it during the ripen- 
 ing process. 
 
 By comparing Figs. 23 and 24, the reader will at 
 once perceive that in the latter, the vine is trimmed so 
 that when the bow is unfastened, the shoot which is to 
 form the next year's bow would be much too high up 
 on the stake. 
 
 GATHERING THE GRAPES. 
 
 Cheerfully the vintner undertakes this, the pleas- 
 antest of all his labors. Kemuneration for many a toil- 
 some hour now smiles at him from out his favorite 
 vines. So sweet is this feeling, that fcAV vintners can 
 wait for the proper time. Grapes, if intended for wine, 
 should be gathered as late as is possible, and it matters 
 not if they should even get overripe. 
 
 Many vintners are of the opinion that the grape, 
 once ripe — which is the case as soon as the stems of the 
 grape bunches turn brown — it is useless to permit the 
 grapes to encumber the vines any longer, as its quality 
 will not be thereafter much improved. But experience 
 demonstrates that while the quantity is slightly dimin- 
 ished, the quality is much improved. In this country, 
 where there are never more than two, and generally 
 but one species of grape, while in Europe from six to 
 
GATHERING THE GRAPES. 83 
 
 twenty species are often found in the same vineyard, 
 one reason for premature gathering is obviated. The 
 grapes generally ripen all about the same time. Should, 
 •however— as will happen— one species of grape ripens 
 before the other, it is best to gather the ripe fruit, and 
 then gather the rest subsequently when ripe. 
 
 There is one great objection among our vintners to 
 patient waiting, which must be mentioned. It lies m 
 the insecurity of their fruit against poachers. Fruit is 
 for some reason regarded as common property, and the 
 same person who would not take beans, cucumbers, 
 corn, or carrots, will think any one a " stingy bugge?-''' 
 who does not look with gratification at any person 
 taking his grapes without leave. The vintners know 
 the prevalence of this freebooting sentiment as to the 
 fruit which has cost them so much labor and money. 
 They will watch it for a fortnight, night and day, but 
 it is too much to expect them to lose their night's rest 
 much longer, merely to improve the quality of their 
 wine a degree or two. The conclusion is too tempting 
 to be long resisted, to put their grapes " where neither 
 moth entereth, nor rust corrupteth, nor thieves break 
 through and steal." 
 
 This is a serious impediment to an improvement in 
 the quality of our wines, but I fear it will exist for 
 some time, at least until fruit, especially grapes, become 
 more generally cultivated, and then a " fellow feeling" 
 
84: THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 will overcome the loose morality about fruit poaching. 
 Laws wliich follow up this growing tendency, would 
 certainly be useful. The following general rules are 
 recommended in gathering grapes : 
 
 1. Gather only in fair weather, and after the dew is 
 off the grapes. 
 
 2. Should rain or heavy fogs occur, stop gathering. 
 It is always bad to go into vineyards while the ground 
 is too wet, and especially in the fall. Aside from the 
 injury to the quality of the wine, it can be proved, 
 that between gathering in fair or foul weather, with 
 and without the dew drops upon the grapes, there is a 
 difference of between five to ten degrees in the quality 
 of the wine. 
 
 8. Care should be had not to injure the vines, while 
 searching for the inside grapes. 
 
 4. Unripe grapes should, as already stated, be lefl 
 in the vineyard on the vines, and if there be but few, 
 or if the season will not permit their subsequent ripen- 
 ing, it is a good practice to mix them with some good 
 apples in cider making, but not to put them with the 
 good ripe grapes. 
 
 5. Should a few unripe berries be found on a grape- 
 bunch they must be picked out and thrown away, — or 
 should there be a few really ripe berries upon an im- 
 ripe bunch, then the ripe ones are picked out and ga- 
 thered, and the unripe bunch itself is left on the vine. 
 
GATHEKIKG THE GRAPES. 85 
 
 6. Everything, except the goocl^ sound^ ripe berries, 
 should be carefully picked out, and particularly- those 
 dried up kernels — so frequent in this country — the 
 result of the blue rot. 
 
 7. Leaves, which casually drop among the gathered 
 grapes should be thrown out. 
 
 It is easy to see from the preceding rules, that ga- 
 thering grapes requires care and attention. I think 
 buckets and tight barrels are better for the purpose of 
 holding the gathered grapes, than baskets. The skins 
 of American Grapes are, to be sure, tougher than the 
 European, though this is fortunately getting less so 
 every year, but very ripe grapes suffer much loss, even 
 here, if handled in baskets. 
 
 I would here warn against that voracious eating of 
 grapes, while gathering them, which is characteristic 
 of raw hands. Our grapes have very large kernels 
 and very tough skins, and there is inside also a rather 
 indigestible pulp. All these things are different in 
 Europe. There the kernels are small, the skin very 
 light, and the inside is almost without pulp. Persons 
 in this country read of the Grrape Cure in Europe, and 
 from this conclude, that grapes are always healthy. 
 So they no doubt are, if eaten in small quantities, and 
 when perfectly ripe ; but I know of five deaths, within 
 my own experience, which from unmistakable signs 
 arose from eating too freely of grapes. One of these 
 
86 THE vine-dresser's manual. 
 
 five was a most hearty and very intelligent young 
 German, who laughed at all warnings, and would insist 
 that grapes were surely healthy at all times of the day, 
 and in any amount. 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 Whatever experiments may have been made with 
 special manures for vineyards, the best ^5, and will 
 continue to be, the compost manure, if got up right. 
 It may be composed of various kinds of material, easily 
 attainable. 
 
 Common stable manure, street sweepings, turnpike 
 dirt, sweepings and slops of houses and chambers, saw- 
 dust, shavings, pomace, leavings from tan yards, tailor, 
 shoe and turning shops, distilleries, ground out of 
 woods, marl, leaves from the vines, and weeds of all 
 kinds, woollen rags, especially ; all these, and many 
 other things, which will readily suggest themselves, 
 should be procured, as opportunity offers, in as great 
 a variety as possible, and mixed together in the follow- 
 ing manner : A hole is dug, at least four feet deep 
 and six feet wide, as near the vineyard as possible, and 
 into it are these materials thrown promiscuously, and 
 as they are thrown in, covered and mixed half and half 
 
MANUEES. 37 
 
 with ground. It is most excellent to pour over it fre- 
 quently the liquids of horse and cow stables. Let it 
 rot for a year, and then remove it into the vineyard, 
 and the effects of such compost manure are far supe- 
 rior to any other. ^ 
 
 Woollen rags are excellent, applied alone. They 
 rot soon, when placed around the stem of the vine and 
 covered with ground. 
 
 Horn shavings and filings are also very good, so are 
 hair and all kinds of leather. I prefer, however, to 
 throw every one of these last-named materials into the 
 compost heaps, mixing and rotting them with the 
 rest. 
 
 No vineyard should be manured oftener than once 
 in two years ; and where the ground is rich, it should 
 be done only every three or four years. During the 
 first three or even four years, no manure need be 
 applied, except preparatory to the first bearing 
 year, and then sparingly immediately around the 
 vines. 
 
 The quantity is not so easy to determine, but fifteen 
 to twenty good two-horse loads of compost manure 
 per acre would not be too much. 
 
 Woollen rags, horn-shavings, hair, and such special 
 strong manures, had better be applied in .the fall. 
 Compost manure, if well rotted, may be applied during 
 fall or spring. I have ever disapproved manuring 
 
88 
 
 during summer, as it disturbs the growtli, and is likely 
 to impart a peculiar taste to the wine. 
 
 I have always found it best to spread the compost 
 manure all over the vineyard, well covering it, how- 
 ever, ^th ground. Special manure I have applied 
 more immediately around the vines, and found it a 
 good practice. 
 
 During the alternate years in which manure is not 
 applied, ground should be hauled to each vine, taking 
 the ground from the woods. This keeps the vine itself, 
 and especially its head, well supplied with ground, and 
 prevents its being exposed too far above the surface. 
 
 DISEASES TO WHICH GRAPEVINES ARE SUBJECT. 
 
 I COULD not, consistently, encumber this book with 
 a chapter on " Grape sicknesses," because I am satis- 
 fied that I could only give a page or so of specula- 
 tions, which may prove right, but of which I have not 
 had a fair experience. I have preferred to state only 
 methods known to me to be practical and correct. If 
 they are well followed, I do not think that any serious 
 sickness need be ever apprehended. The grape sick- 
 nesses in America may with propriety form a part of 
 such a book as the one now presented, when we shall 
 
WINE MAKING. 
 
 have had a further experience of ten or fifteen years, 
 and after we shall have planted really good vineyards. 
 For the same reason I dispense with several other pro- 
 lific subjects, which usually form a part of such books. 
 
 WmE MAKING. 
 
 MASHING THE GRAPES. 
 
 Almost every vine- dresser in this country has his 
 own mode of mashing grapes, as has almost every 
 neighborhood in Europe. 
 
 I will endeavor to describe some of the more simple 
 methods, and they may serve the reader as an indica- 
 tion of what he may require, each case being modified 
 by the kind and particularly the quantity of grapes 
 to be mashed. 
 
 For a few bushels of grapes I know of no more sim- 
 ple and efficacious method than to prepare a wooden 
 stamper three feet and a half long, of the form repre- 
 sented in Fig. 25, being at the larger end si± inches in 
 diameter and having the bottom a little scooped out 
 or concave. Bore holes entirely through the large end 
 with a quarter-inch auger in every direction, and in- 
 
90 
 
 THE vine-dresser's MANUAL. 
 
 sert round oak or hickory pins, so as to have them 
 project at each end three-eighths of an inch. 
 
 Into a clean sweet cask of the capacity of about forty 
 gallons, put about two bushels of grapes, and then pass 
 the stampei up and down among them until they are 
 completely mashed. The small wooden pins project- 
 ing as they do, are a great aid in the mashing process. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 As soon as completely mashed, empty the mass into 
 a box upon the press. 
 
 Another mode very common in Europe, is treading 
 the grapes with the feet. The grapes are placed in a 
 small tub or cask, the bottom of which is punctured 
 
WINE MAKING. 91 
 
 with small auger holes. This tub is placed upon two 
 sticks put across a larger cask, and the operator treads 
 the grapes with his feet. 
 
 A machine of very simple construction having two 
 rollers, between which the grapes are passed, may bo 
 constructed for a few dollars, and will answer a good 
 purpose. Fig. 26 will serve for an illustration. 
 
 Whenever larger quantities are to be mashed, I 
 would advise the use of the common apple-mashers with 
 horse power. I prefer these as cheapest, very expedi- 
 tious and effective, and in all localities easily obtained. 
 
 After the pomace has been once slightly pressed, 
 I have always subjected it to a second mashing, and 
 again pressing it. The rollers or mashers should not 
 be set too close, as the stems and kernels should not be 
 crushed. 
 
 In Europe, about twenty years ago, the practice of 
 separating the "berries" from the "combs" before 
 pressing, was much in vogue. 
 
 The comb containing tannin and apple acids, it was 
 deemed desirable to keep these ingredients out of the 
 wine. This was performed by rasps of various con- 
 struction, one of which is represented in Fig. 27, 
 consisting of two shallow boxes or trays ; the bottoms 
 made of crossed slats, laid as represented in cut a, Fig. 
 27, and not laid upon the flat sides of the square. The 
 upper rasp must be small enough to admit of its being 
 
 b 
 
92 
 
 THE vine-dresser's MANUAL. 
 
 rubbed backward and forward within and upon tbe 
 lower one, having the grapes between them. 
 
 ''^'^^'^^'^^U 
 
 IK 
 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
 l^o 
 
 
 1 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 l^w 
 
 
 l^ 
 
 
 iiii(ijmi(D[^[]iiif 
 
 
 1 
 
 SSiSSIw 
 
 ^SS 
 
 ^ ^S ^^^ SS^^^fl^^K 
 
 i(^mS 
 
 
 
 ill 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 HlWWIM 
 
 
 
 EH (1 (LJ) (|rj 
 
 rOD 
 
 igfi 
 
 
 HMlnnfi 
 
 aaii-! 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 M'.^ 
 
 SflS 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 HB 
 
 Wjfl^^ 
 
 
 )m 1 
 
 ^^ 
 
 bmSS 
 
 S 
 
 ^ 
 
 IKS 
 
 
 M 
 
 / e ' ' ' ^' — -^ 
 
 The interstices should be of the proper size to suffer 
 the crushed berries to pass through and retain the comb. 
 
WIKE MAKING. 93 
 
 The slats may be three-four tlis of an inch or au 
 inch in thickness. 
 
 These rasps may be of wood of any size from two 
 feet to six feet square ; made somewhat like a Avindow- 
 sash with a rim around the margin six inches high. 
 
 They are placed over a tub of the proper size when 
 being used. 
 
 This method of mashing grapes will not probably 
 prevail to any great extent in the United States. The 
 harder skin of our grapes and their peculiar pulp ren- 
 der it more laborious, and it is the opinion of many of 
 our best vintners that the "tannin" of the stem, both 
 improves the flavor of the wine and furnishes some 
 preservative qualities. 
 
 Many of the wine manufacturers of Europe allow 
 the mashed grapes to ferment in stand casks before 
 pressing, and for grapes thus to be fermented the rasp- 
 ing process is certainly to be recommended. 
 
 This fermentation will, I think, not be adopted gen- 
 erally in this country, owing to the warmth of the 
 season at the time of vintage. It is a matter upon 
 which it is well to experiment, however, and the result 
 would be interesting to the public. 
 
 The practice most be recommended is to mash the 
 berries upon the stems effectually, and any method 
 which accomplishes this, without too much bruising 
 the comb or crushing the kernel, may be adopted. The 
 
94 
 
 THE vine-dresser's MANUAL. 
 
 more expeditiously this is done, and the sooner the 
 grapes can be got to the press without unnecessary ex- 
 posure to the atmosphere, the better. 
 
 PRESSING. 
 
 After the grapes are mashed, they should be trans- 
 ferred as expeditiously as possible to the wine press. 
 
 A 
 
 Pig. 28. 
 
 
 w J / n/ , 
 
 ^ 
 
 D) 
 
 As to the kind of press and other appurtenances of 
 the vineyard, the vintner must be governed by the 
 quantity of grapes, the extent of his present and pro- 
 
FKESSING. 95 
 
 spective vineyards, and tlie dimensions of his purse. 
 But this volume being intended especially for begin- 
 ners and persons having limited vineyards, our descrip- 
 tion of a wine-press will be of the simplest kind, adapt- 
 ed to the masses of our people, few of whom have large 
 vineyards. 
 
 Fig. 28 represents a wine-press of very simple 
 construction, which may be made larger than the 
 dimensions given below when the quantity of grapes 
 demands it. 
 
 The upright posts may even be inserted into the 
 ground a distance of four feet instead of into the pieces 
 of timber as represented. They are 10 by 12 inches 
 and 10 feet in height. The top cross piece is 8 by 10 
 inches and 8 feet long, the ends secured to the upright 
 posts by mortise and tenon. The two lower cross 
 pieces are notched into the posts about two feet from 
 the bottom, and are secured by a pin or bolt. Upon 
 these lower cross pieces is placed the floor of the press, 
 which is some four feet square, and is composed either 
 of a solid piece of wood or of several pieces jointed 
 together, so formed as to make a bed of two and a 
 half inches thick with a rim all around of six inches 
 in height. The floor should descend in every direc- 
 tion towards the hole for the spout. The pieces must 
 be driven together by wedges inserted between the 
 floor and the posts. 
 
 I 
 
96 
 
 THE VINE-DRESSER S MANUAL. 
 
 Upon this "press-floor" is placed the frame, Fig. 29, 
 made of two-inch oak boards — 3 feet square and 18 to 24 
 inches high, fastened together by mortise and tenon, 
 yet so as to be easily taken apart and perforated by 
 holes one-eighth of an inch diameter, about an inch 
 apart, also having notches cut on the lower edge, for 
 the passage of the juice. 
 
 Fie. 29. 
 
 Into this frame are poured the mashed grapes. After 
 levelling them off, a covering of inch boards is placed 
 upon them ; this cover is closely fitted to the frame, and 
 can be easily put in and taken out, and upon this a 
 cross piece of oak 6 by 6 inches for the screw to press 
 upon. The screw may be of wood or iron, and is turn- 
 ed by levers inserted in the head. 
 
 The sap which first flows from the press makes the 
 best wine, and that which is last expressed is somewhat 
 
PRESSING. 97 
 
 inferior. In this country the manufacture of wine is 
 so much in its infancy, that very few persons attempt 
 to preserve the nice distinctions in the quality of wines 
 which prevail in Europe, and the wine is generally 
 thrown promiscuously into the cask. ^ 
 
 Cleanliness and despatch in mashing and pressing 
 cannot be too strongly enjoined. 
 
 The young wine is easily spoiled because it adopts 
 acids not only from the atmosphere, but also from any 
 implement or utensil which may be sour or unclean. 
 
 The press mashers and casks should therefore be 
 scrupulously cleaned before using them, and be kept 
 clean during the entire labor. 
 
 Employ none but expert, neat, and cleanly work- 
 men. 
 
 Do not let your grapes, either before or after being 
 mashed, stand about for days in tubs or barrels. 
 
 Hire hands enough to gather every day enough to 
 fill your press, and, if possible, mash and press them 
 the same evening, and transfer the juice to the cellar, 
 permitting the air to act upon it as little as possible 
 during these operations. 
 
 Do not defer procuring your casks to the last mo- 
 ment. Have the transfer casks you fill with, and 
 also your cellar casks, nicely clean and tight. 
 
 They should be as large as the quantity of wine you 
 expect to make will require. The larger the quantity 
 
 .i 
 
98 THE vine-dressek's manual, 
 
 fermenting in one body, the steadier is the fei-inenta- 
 tion and the better the wine. 
 
 Large casks are the pride of a good vintner, because 
 they are a guarantee that his wine will have a chance 
 to ferment well. 
 
 In Europe, casks of 10,000 gallons are frequent, 
 and less than 500 gallons arc seldom used ; and such 
 vintners as have smaller quantities either sell their 
 wine from the press, or, clubbing together, get their 
 wine into large casks. 
 
 A wine house with a cellar underneath, is desirable 
 in every vineyard of a size suf&cient to justify the ex- 
 pense. The construction is simple, and requires no 
 explanation in this volume. 
 
 TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 
 
 The young wine fresh from the Press is filled into 
 the casks in the cellar. These casks should be placed 
 upon scantling or scaffolding, and not upon the ground 
 in the cellar. 
 
 They should be filled only three-fourths full. 
 
 The wine will soon commence fermentation, gen- 
 erally within the next twenty-four hours. The mass 
 bubbles, as cider does, during fermentation, and if the 
 
TREATMEN'T OF THE WINE. 
 
 99 
 
 casks were entirely filled, miicli of it would run over. 
 It rejects carbonic acid, and also many of the finer 
 aromatic essences escape. 
 
 Many devices have been tried to retain these latter. 
 The process adopted in the making of Champagne is 
 for the purpose of securing this great desideratum, and 
 thus the greater part of the carbonic acid and these 
 finer essences are retained. 
 
 Fro. 30. 
 
 The manufacture of Champagne^ however, requires 
 an amount of outlay for casks, cellars of extraordinary 
 depth, bottles, ka., which places it beyond the reach of 
 the ordinary vintner of small means ; and as this will 
 also place it beyond the scope of this work, we must 
 refer the reader to those works which treat upon the 
 subject, especially if they would pursue their investi- 
 gations farther in this direction. 
 
 The securing the finer essences of the wine, may be 
 
100 
 
 attained sufficiently for our purpose by a very simple 
 contrivance, shown in Fig. 80. 
 
 A tube of block tin is inserted into the bung of tlie 
 cask an inch, or more, with, the shorter arm immersed 
 in a crock of water. As soon as the fermentation shall 
 have fairly commenced, the carbonic acid will escape 
 through the water. 
 
 As the fermentation and its consequent pressure 
 subsides, much of the carbonic acid, and many of the 
 aromas, so essential to fine-flavored wine, are retained. 
 
 A great advantage is also gained thereby in rendering 
 it less necessary to keep watch over the fermentation, 
 and to close the casks as soon as the fermentation shall 
 have ceased; the external atmosphere being at all 
 times excluded, the oxygen of the air cannot penetrate 
 to the fermenting mass. 
 
 When this plan is not adopted, be careful not to 
 fasten the bung during fermentation. 
 
 This would cause the cask to burst. 
 
 As soon as the fermentation is over, drive in the 
 bung tightly. 
 
 After the more violent fermentation is passed, fill 
 the casks brimfull, and for four weeks refill at least 
 once a week, and afterwards, till late in the spring, re- 
 fill once a month. 
 
 In Europe, where wine is a chief element in the 
 food of families, one cask is kept for daily nse, and 
 
TREATMKXT OF THE WIXE. 101 
 
 from this the other casks are replenished. In any cask 
 that cannot be kept fall, the vacant space should be 
 hunifid out with brimstone, as hereafter described, at 
 least once a month. The object of this being to keep 
 it perfectly sweet. 
 
 Empty wine casks should be thus " burnt out" once 
 each quarter of a year, and especially just before fill- 
 ing or immediately after emptying them. Before 
 burning, the casks should be thoroughly washed out 
 with hot and cold water. The brimstone will not 
 burn unless the casks are nearly clean. 
 
 One can also detect by this means whether the casks 
 are perfectly tight, as the smoke will b^ sure to escape 
 through any crevices, if such exist. 
 
 The brimstone is prepared as follows ; 
 
 Put common brimstone in a pot over a slow fire. 
 Be careful not to melt too rapidly, as this may cause it 
 to ignite. When melted, draw through it strips oc 
 stout paper, an inch wide and a foot long, and hold 
 them in the air a few minutes till the brimstone 
 hardens. 
 
 To burn out a cask, take out the bung, and after 
 setting fire to one of these strips, quickly insert it into 
 the cask, and drive the bung home upon it, so as to 
 hold, it suspended while it burns. 
 
 Some mne-makers, after burning with buimstone, 
 again burn the cask out with a small sponge dipped in 
 
102 THE VIXE-DIll'LSSEIi's MANUAL. 
 
 the best brand^^, fdstencd to a wire, and inserted into 
 the cask as with the brimstone slip. 
 
 The fermented wine is left in the cask upon the lees 
 undisturbed until spring, say March or April. Then 
 it should be drawn off. 
 
 About the time that the grapevine is in bloom, tlio 
 wine undergoes another fermentation in the cellar, 
 again forming small lees. 
 
 Wine becomes generally clear a few weeks after it 
 is put into the casks in the fall, and some persons then 
 draw it off. This gives the wine a milder taste, but 
 at the expense of strength, Our wines being naturally 
 strong, this may be done here without material injury. 
 
 A vintner should take the' earliest opportunity to 
 have a good, welhpaved, deep cellar, dry and well 
 walled with stone. It should be not less than eight 
 feet deep. In Europe their cellars are seldom less than 
 twelve to twenty feet deep, and are almost invariably 
 arched over. 
 
 Thus their Avines are preserved from the extreme 
 cold of winter and heat of summer. Cellars should be 
 kept dark, except while working in them. Vegetables, 
 and substances which are apt to create an offensive 
 smell, should not be kept in the same cellar with wine. 
 And the cellar should always be kept scrupulously clean. 
 
 As soon as the wine is perfectly clear in the spring, 
 J would recommend the bottling off for family use (a 
 
TREATMENT OF THE WINE. 103 
 
 lialf gross or so), and laying the bottles in sand. 
 Those who will try this plan will find that after Ijdiig 
 thus for some six weeks, their wine will be vastly 
 improved. 
 
 In the directions here given for the making of wine, 
 I have confined myself to the simple treatment of such 
 matters as every vintner must know. A much more 
 elaborate work might have been written, but the 
 " Yine-Dresser''s ManuaV^ is intended for the general 
 cultivator, and not for the extensive wine manufoc- 
 tuTcr. 
 
 A good cultivator will find in this all that is neces- 
 sary to enable him to make good wine, or better said, 
 to suifer the wine to make itself. 
 
 In conclusion, I hope I shall be pardoned for saying 
 that natural, unadulterated wine is entirely healthful, 
 and may with great advantage form a part of the food 
 of our people, and for all classes be made a wliolesome 
 addition to the principal meal of the day at least. 
 
 All artificial loines are injurious, and none more so 
 than those " unfermented wines," as they are called, 
 with which over-scrupulous persons are humbugged. 
 All such are unnatural, and contain foreign substance, 
 more or less unwholesome. Would that good, sound 
 sense were more prevalent on this subject. 
 
 May God bless the vintner's skill and toil I 
 
BOOKS FOR THE COUNTRY, 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 C. M. SAXTON, 
 
 152 FULTON STREET, NEW TOM, 
 
 SUITABLE FOR 
 
 SCHOOL, TOWN, AGRICULTURAL AND PRIYATE LIBRARIES. 
 
 The American Cattle Doctor; 
 
 Containins^ the necessary information for preserving the health and curing the 
 diseases of Oxen, Cows, Sheep and Swine, with a great variety of original receipts, 
 and valuable information in reference to Farm and Dairy management, whereby 
 every man can be his own Cattle Doctor. The principles taught in this work are, 
 that all medication shall be subservient to nature — that all medicines must be 
 sanative in their operation, and administered with a view of aiding the vital 
 powers, instead of depressing, as heretofore, with the lancet by poison. By O. H 
 Dodd, M.D., Veterinary Practitioner. Price $1. 
 
 The Field Book of Manures ; 
 
 Or American Muck Book ; treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, 
 and Operations of all the principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common Use, with 
 Specific Directions for their Preservation, and Application to the Soil and to Crops ; 
 drawn from Authentic Sources, Actual Experience, and Personal Observation, as 
 combined with the leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. By 
 D. Jay Brown, $1.25. 
 
 Sheep Husbandry ; 
 
 "With an account of the diflbrent breeds, and general directions in regard to Sum 
 mer and Winter management, breeding, and the treatment of diseases, with 
 portraits and other engravings. By Henry S. Randall. Price $1.25. 
 
 Blake's Farmer at Home. 
 
 A Family Text Book for the Country ; being a Cyclopaedia of Agricultural Imple* 
 ments and Productions, and of the more Important Topics in Domestic Economy, 
 Science and Literature ; adapted to Rural Life. By Rev. John L. Blake, D. D 
 91.25. 
 
 The Progressive Farmer. 
 
 A Scientific Treatise on Agricultural Chemistry, the Geology of Agriculture, on 
 Plants and Animals, Manures and Soils applied to Practical Agriculture. By J 
 A Nash. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Allen on the Culture of the Grape. 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Culture and Treatment of the Grape Vine, embracing 
 Its history, with directions for its treatment in the United States of America, in the 
 open air and under glass structures, with and without artificial heat. By J, Flsk 
 Allen. Price $1. 
 
 Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained ; 
 
 Being a Complete Analysis of the whole subject, consisting of the Naturel Historr 
 of Bees, Directions for Obtaining the greatest amount of Pure Surplus Hjney with 
 the least possible expense ; Remedies for Losses given, and the Science of Luck , 
 fully illustrated ; the result of more than twenty years' expftrience in extensivt 
 Aoianes. By M, Quinby. Price $1 . 
 
Books Published by C. M. Saxton. 
 
 The Shepherd's Own Book; 
 
 With an Account of the different Breeds and Management, and Diseases of Sheep ; 
 and General Directions in rogard to Summer and Winter Management, Breeding, 
 and the Treatment of Diseases ; with Illustrative Engravings, by Vouatt & Ran 
 dall, embracing Skinner's Notes on the Breed and Management of Sheep in the 
 United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool. Price $2. 
 
 Canfield on Sheep. 
 
 The Breeds, Management, Structure and Diseases of the Sheep, with Illustrative 
 Engravings, and an Appendix, containing List of Medicines used in the Treatment 
 of Diseases, Plans of Stalls, Gates, Barn, Sheds, &c. &c. Price $1. 
 
 Johnston's Chemistrj and Geology. 
 
 Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology, with a Complete Analytical 
 and Alphabetical Index. By Simon Brown, Esq., Editor of the New Englaiid 
 Farmer. Price $1.25. 
 
 Practical Agriculture ; 
 
 Being a Treatise on the General Relations which Science bears to Agriculture 
 Delivered before the New York State Agricultural Society ; with Notes and Es 
 planations by an American Farmer. Cloth. 75 cts. ; paper 50 cts. 
 
 Johnston's Agricultural Chemistrj^ 
 
 Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to Agriculture. Ne'* 
 edition, with an Appendix. $1.25. 
 
 Smith's Landscape Gardening, Parks & Pleasure Grounds; 
 
 With Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks and Gardens. 
 By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and Garden Architect, &c., with 
 Notes and Additions by Lewis F. Allen, author of " Rural Architecture," &c. 
 
 The author, while engaged in his profession for the last eighteen years, has 
 often been requested to recommend a book wliich might enable persons to acquire 
 some general knowledge of the principles of Landscape Gardening. 
 
 The object of the present work is to preserve a plain and direct method of state- 
 ment, to be intelligible to all who have had an ordinary education, and to givo 
 directions which, it is hoped, will be found to be practical by those who have an 
 adequate knowledge of country aflairs. Price $1.25. 
 
 Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden ; 
 
 Or an Account of the most valuable Fruits Cultivated in Great Britain. By 
 George Lindlcy ; with additions of all the most valuable Fruits Culti'-ated in 
 America, with Directions for their Cultivation, Budding, Grafting and Propaga- 
 tion ; Pruning and Training of Standards, Open Dwaif and Espalier Fruit Trees, 
 adapted to the Climate of the United States of America. A new elition, with an 
 Appendix, describing many American Fruits not mentioned in the brmer edition 
 Price $.125. 
 
 The American Fruit Culturist ; 
 
 Containing Directions for the Propagation and Culture of Frui Trees in the 
 Nursery, Orchard and Garden ; with Descriptions of the principal American and 
 Foreign varieties Cultivated in the United States. By John J. Thomas, lllustra- 
 ted with three hundred accurate figures. Price $1.25. 
 
 A merican Poultry Yard. 
 
 The American Poultry Yard ; comprising the Origin, History and Description of 
 the different Breeds of Domestic Pcaltry, with complete directions for their 
 Breedinoj, Crossing, Rearing, Fattening and Preparation for Market ; including 
 specific directions for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of tne Principal 
 Diseases to which they are subject drawn from authentic sources and personal 
 onserv.-ition lUust-ated with numerom engravings. By D. J. B'Mwne. Clot*i 
 $1 , pHp.^r, 76 cU 
 
Books Published by C. M. Saxton. 
 
 Y'ouatt and Martin on Cattle ; 
 
 Boing a Treatise on their Breeds, Management and Diseases, comprising a full 
 History of the Various Races ; their Origin, Breeding and Merits their capacity 
 for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The whole forming a 
 complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 
 100 illusti-ations. Edited by Aml^rose Stevens. $1.25. 
 
 Vouatt on the Horse. 
 
 Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, wit a their Remedies 
 Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. C. 
 Spooner, M. R. C. V. S. With an cjcount of the Breeds in the United States, bv 
 Henry S. Randall. $1.25. ' 
 
 Youatt and Martin on the Hog. 
 
 A Treatise on the Breeds, Management and Medical Treatment of Swine, with 
 directions for Salting Pork and Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, R. S. 
 Illustrated with engravings drawn from life $1.00. 
 
 Youatt on Sheep ; 
 
 Their Breed, Management and Diseases, with illustrative engravings ; to which 
 are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, 
 and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By William Youatt. 75 cts. 
 
 American Architect. 
 
 The American Architect, comprising Original Designs of cheap Country and 
 Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans and Directions, and an est!- 
 mate of the Cost of each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second 
 Series, quarto, bound in one vol., half roan, $6. 
 
 Domestic Medicine. 
 
 Gunn's Domestic Medicine, or Poor Man's Friend in the Hours of Affliction, Pain 
 and Sickness Raymond's new revised edition, imnroved and enlarged by John 
 C. Gunn, 8vo. Sheep, $3. 
 
 Family Kitchen Gardener ; 
 
 Containing Plain and Accurate Descriptions of all the difl'erent Species and Varie 
 ties of Culinary Vegetables, with their Botanical, English, French and German 
 names, alphabetically arranged, and the best mode of cultivating them in the 
 garden, or under glass ; also, Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits; 
 their Managerrwnt, Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the American 
 Flower Garden Directory, &c. Cloth, 75 cts. ; paper, 50 cts. 
 
 Hoare on the Grape Vine. 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine on Open Walls, with a 
 Descriptive Account of an improved method of Planting and Managing the Roots 
 of Grape Vines. By Clement Hoare. With an Appendix on the Cultivation of the 
 same in the United States. 50 cts. 
 
 Stephens' Book of the Farm ; 
 
 A Complete Guide to the Farmer, Steward, Plowman, Cattleman, Shepherd, Field 
 Worker and Dairy Maid. By Henry Stephens. With Four Hundred and Fifty 
 Illustrations ; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c., by J. S 
 Skinner. Really one of the best books for a Farmer to possess. Cloth, $4- 
 leather, $4.50. 
 
 The Diseases of Domestic Animals ; 
 
 Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry 
 and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rear, 
 ing. Feeding and Preparation for a profitable Market ; also, tlicir Diseases and 
 Remedies, together with full Directions- for the Management of the Dairv,an'I the 
 Comp?rative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, the Harse, JJulo^ 
 -O/xen; S:c. By R. L. Alle*:. Cloth, 75 cts ; paper, 50 eta. 
 
4 Books Puhlishtd hy C. M. JSaxton. 
 
 American Bee-keeper's Manual ; 
 
 Being a Practical Treatise on the History and Domestic Economy of the H*ney 
 Bee ; embracing a full illustration of the whole subject, with the most approved 
 methods of managing this Insect, through every branch of its Culture, the result 
 of many years' experience Illustrated with many engravings. By T. B. Miner 
 Cloth, $1. 
 
 American Bird Fancier, 
 
 Considered with reference to the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management, &c 
 of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with engravings. By D. J. Browne 
 Cloth, 60 cts. 
 
 The American Farm Book. 
 
 The American Farm Book ; or, a Compend of American Agriculture, being a 
 Practical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, 
 Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Rice, and every Staple Product of the United 
 States ; with the best methods of planting, cultivating and preparation for market. 
 Illustrated by more than 100 engravings. By R. L. Allen. Cloth, $1 ; paper, 75 
 cents. 
 
 Southern Agriculture ; 
 
 Comprising Essays on the Cultivation ot Corn, Hemp, Tobacco, Wheat, &c. $1 
 
 The Cottage and Farm Bee-keeper ; 
 
 A Practical "Work, by a Country Curate. 50 cts. 
 
 A Book for Every Boy in the Country. 
 
 Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and adapted to general 
 use, by F. G. Skinner. 25 cts. 
 
 Allen's Kural Architecture ; 
 
 Comprising Farm Houses, Cottages, Carriage Houses, Sheep and Dove Cotes, 
 Piggeries, Barns, &c. &c. By Lewis F. Allen $1.25. 
 
 The Kose ; 
 
 Being a Practical Treatise on the Propagalioo, Cultivation and Management ol 
 the Rose in all Seasons ; with a List of Choice and Approved Varieties, adapted to 
 the Climate of the United Statea ; to which is added Full Directions for the Treat 
 ment of the Dahlia. Illustrated by engravings. Cloth, 50 cts. 
 
 The American. Agriculturist ; 
 
 Being a Collection of Original Articles on the Various Subjects connected with 
 the Farm, in ten vols. 8vo., containing nearly four thousand pages. $10. 
 
 The Complete Farmer and American Gardener, 
 
 Rural Economist, and New American Gardener, containing a Compendious 
 E.pitome of the most Important Branches of Agricultural and Rural Economy ; 
 with Practical Directioas on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables ; ircluding 
 Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden. 2 vols, in one. 
 $1.25. 
 
 Experimental Eesearches on the Food of Animals, 
 
 The Fattening of Cattle, and Remarks on the Foo d of Man. By Robert Dundai 
 Thompson, M.D. 75 cts. 
 
 Tlie American Florist's Guide ; 
 
 Comprising the American Rose Culturist and Every Lady her own Flower 
 Gardener. Half cloth, 76 cts. 
 
 Saxton's Rural Hand Books, 
 
 First and Socond Series. Bound in 2 vols. $2.50 Embracing Iwelve Complete 
 Tr-ati'^PB in the different departments of Agriculture, being ors of the most valu- 
 able BfKjks v«a1 pjldished 
 
i.r